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SILCHIP
Going bush in the 4WD or camper? Want to add a second
battery for security and safety? Here’s the safe way to do it.
12/24V Auxiliary
Battery Controller
for 4WD/Campers/Cars/Trucks/etc
I
t’s common practice to add a
second battery to motor homes,
4WDs, caravans and so on, so that
any electrical or electronic devices
used while stationary do not drain the
main vehicle battery. It’s important
at the best of times but can become a
matter of life and death half way up
the Oodnadatta Track!
There have been all manner of
schemes “invented” to connect the
second battery, ranging from simple
permanent paralleling (definitely not
recommended!), isolating switches
and many “electronic” solutions.
80 Silicon Chip
This is one of the latter but it is different to most, in that it uses a latching
relay – which we’ll explain shortly –
to do the switching. This results in a
very low standby current – less than
500mA – which can be even further reduced, to just 50mA, by eliminating the
indicator LED. If, for example, you are
using solar cells for long-term battery
charging and you’re the other side of
Woop-Woop, every microamp is sacred
Design by Branko Justic*
Words by Ross Tester
(with apologies to Monty Python).
By the way, the reason that permanent paralleling is not recommended
is that it is all-too-easy to flatten both
batteries to the point where they won’t
start the vehicle. And a manual isolating switch is not an ideal solution to
the problem because it is just that:
manual. Too many times we’ve heard
of flat main batteries because someone
forgot to disconnect them, or flat auxiliary batteries because someone forgot
to connect them.
Our circuit does it automatically
for you by connecting the two batsiliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
+
–
Let’s assume you turn on the ignition
and your main battery is a bit on the
low side. The L4949 would sense this
but in fact, it doesn’t matter because
very little happens in the circuit, apart
from an indicator which we’ll get to
shortly.
It’s only when the main battery voltage rises to the IC’s threshold that the
action starts!
With the engine started, the main
battery voltage rises. When the voltage at pin 2 reaches IC1’s threshold
(1.34V), an internal transistor at the
output (pin 7) is turned off. Pin 7 there-
+
FUSEHOLDER
MAIN
BATTERY
–
AUXILIARY
BATTERY
HEAVY
DUTY
QC CLIPS
–
+
+
+
CON1
TO
CHASSIS
+
TO
CHASSIS
c oatleyelectronics.com
+
+
+
K227
We’ll assume this is a 12V system
but the same explanation holds for
a 24V system (simply double the
figures!).
To understand how the circuit
works, you need to remember that
the unloaded voltage of a charged
vehicle battery that is at normal ambient temperature and has not been
used for some time is usually around
12.6V. When the vehicle is started, the
alternator charges the battery and the
voltage rises to around 14V.
The circuit is shown in Fig.2. Starting from the top left, Q1 is a simple
regulator which prevents the supply to
IC1 (L4949) spiking above about 15.5V,
which is quite possible in a vehicle.
IC1 is the heart of the circuit and is
described as a monolithic integrated
5.0V voltage regulator with a very low
dropout voltage and additional functions such as power-on reset and input
voltage sense.
We’re not using it exactly as the
manufacturer intended – in this
circuit only the voltage sensing comparator and the 5V regulator sections
are used.
Pin 8 provides the regulated 5V output used by the rest of the circuit.
Pin 2 is the input for the voltage sensor section of the IC. It is connected to
a voltage divider across the main battery supply, consisting of four resistors
(six for 24V) and a 2kW trimpot (VR1),
which sets the trigger voltage. The
22nF capacitor filters out any spikes
or noise, which are highly likely in
vehicle wiring.
+
How does it work?
Just connect this between
your main and auxiliary
batteries and never be caught
with a flat main battery again!
+
teries whenever the main battery is
charged to a high enough voltage – say
13.5V – to allow this to be done safely.
Almost invariably, that is when the
motor is running and the main battery
is being charged from the alternator.
(It could, of course, also be when the
main battery is connected to a battery
charger.)
If you connect a charged main
battery to a relatively flat auxiliary
battery, a quite large current can flow
for a short time from one to the other,
resulting in a short-term voltage drop
in the main battery.
Normally, this might cause a protection circuit such as this to drop out,
stopping the current flow and bringing the main battery voltage back up,
resulting in the circuit connecting the
two batteries again, resulting in a voltage drop, resulting in . . .
The result can be relay chatter (and
lots of contact arcing – not good!) as
it rapidly switches on and off. This
circuit precludes this by putting in
a 30-second delay (via a monostable
based on IC2).
The adaptor can be used with either
12V or 24V systems, so it suits both
small and large vehicles. As a bonus, it
can protect the main battery by acting
as a low-voltage dropout – lead-acid
vehicle batteries do not like being
discharged too far and this will stop
that happening
Fig.1: here’s how the Auxiliary Battery Controller fits into the system. It won’t
connect the auxiliary battery if the main battery doesn’t have enough charge.
December 2006 81
82 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
SC
2006
VR1
2k
120k
(91k* )
22k
120k
(91k* )
30A
FUSE
22nF
B
2
S
1 µF
16V
E
1
5
GND
SO
+5V
IC1
L4949
IN
7
8
100 µF
16V
470k
A
K
A
K
100k
D2
IC2d
IC2a
14
D3
9
8
6
5
12
7
IC2c
IC2b
10
4
A
K
100 µF
16V
13
3
IC2: 4001B
11
2
1
D1
AUXILIARY BATTERY CONTROLLER
1k
12k
6.8k
LINK FOR
12V,
REMOVE
FOR 24V
ZD1
15V
+
* FOR LOW
VOLTAGE
CUTOUT
CHANGE
THESE
RESISTORS
TO 91k
100 µF
35V
22k
C
Q1 2N5551
ZD1
+
6
5
2
1
K
A
IC3b
IC3a
IC3: 4093B
1 µF
16V
470k
100 µF
16V
+5V
1 µF
16V
D6
D5
4
3
D7
470k
100k
K
A
K
λ
A
A
1N4148
A
K
2.2k
LED1
K
A
D8
K
470k
1 µF
16V
D4
A
K
Fig.2: the circuit is based on an L4949 precision 5V source and low-dropout regulator. Only one of Q2 or Q3 can
conduct at any one time and then it’s only for half a second or so, just enough time to flip over the latching relay.
–
MAIN
BATTERY
+
MAIN
BATTERY
13
12
9
8
14
11
D9
10
C B E
2N5551
7
IC3d
A
K
+5V
IC3c
470k
22 Ω
1W
G
G
G
D
S
2SK700
S
Q2
2SK700
D
22 Ω
1W
D
S
Q3
2SK700
D
AUXILIARY
BATTERY
RLY1
80A LATCHING
RELAY
Q2 2SK700
# NOT
REQUIRED
FOR 12V
USE
Q1
2N5551
VR1
LED1
4148 D2
4148 D1
470k
4001
IC2
+
100k
4148
D3
2k
100 µF
*
+
2.2k
*
470k
D7
4148
4148
100k
4148
D5
470k
D6 4148
+
1 µF
470k
470k
100 µF
D4
K227
IC3 4093
+
D9
D8
4148
4148
+
1 µF
c oatleyelectronics.com
1 µF
1 µF
IC1
L4949
RLY1
80A RELAY
JMX-94F
*
100 µF
+
Q3 2SK700
CON1
35V
120k #
1k
22k#
120k
6.8k
22nF
12k
15V
ZD1
22k
LINK FOR
12V USE
+
22Ω 1W
22Ω 1W
+ –
100 µF
+
* 16V
Fig.3: there’s nothing particularly tricky about soldering the PC board – except perhaps getting all the diodes around the right
way! You can solder direct to the relay terminals or use appropriate heavy-duty crimp connectors. Note the link for 12V use.
fore goes to logic high via the 100kW
pullup resistor.
IC2a and IC2d, along with the 100mF
capacitor, 470kW resistor and diodes D3
and D2, form a monostable. It is triggered by IC2a’s input while the output
is pin 11 of ICd.
The monostable’s input pins 1 & 2
are normally pulled low by the 100kW
resistor to 0V and the output at pin 11
of IC2d is also low since IC2d’s inputs
are pulled high via the 470kW resistor
to +5V.
When the battery voltage goes high,
so does pin 7 of IC1 and this pulls pin
6 of IC2b directly high and pins 1 & 2
high via diode D1. This causes pin 11
of IC2d to go high for about 30 seconds
while the 100mF capacitor charges up.
This stops the circuit from hunting up
and down quickly if the battery voltage
varies substantially.
So with IC2b’s inputs high, its output
goes low, forcing the output of IC2c
to go high. This in turn sends IC3a’s
inputs high and its outputs low. The
1mF capacitor between IC3a and IC3c
now charges, quite quickly, meaning
IC3c’s input goes from low to high, in
about half a second.
IC3c’s output does the opposite – it
goes from high to low in the same time.
While high, it turns on Mosfet Q2,
briefly energising the relay coil and
closing the contacts.
Because it is a latching relay, the
contacts stay closed. This connects
the auxiliary battery directly across
the main battery, allowing it to charge.
OK, so what happens if the voltage at
pin 2 of IC1 falls below the threshold
(1.24V)?
Much the opposite, in fact. This
time, both of IC2b’s inputs are taken
low, quickly charging the 1mF capacisiliconchip.com.au
tor between IC2c’s output and IC3d’s
inputs. IC3d’s output goes briefly high,
switching on Q3 and energising the
relay coil, with current flowing in the
opposite direction.
Therefore the latching relay switches
its contacts over, disconnecting the
auxiliary battery from the main battery so that the main battery won’t
discharge into the auxiliary battery.
Latching relay
The relay contacts are rated at 80A,
250V AC, so it is capable of switching
in even a relatively discharged auxiliary battery.
The relay contacts would not normally be subjected to anything like this
punishment because when they break
(the worst-case scenario when arcing normally occurs) it would almost
always be with either a fully charged
(or mostly charged) auxiliary battery,
so the charging current would be very
much reduced, probably to only a
couple of amps, if that.
As we mentioned before, RLY1 is not
a “normal” relay. It’s a latching relay,
which can be changed over by reversing the current flow in its coil.
Q2 and Q3 power the relay coil from
opposite sides. In Q3’s case, it can be
Where from,
how much
This project was designed by Oatley
Electronics, who hold the copyright.
A complete kits of parts (Cat K227) is
available for $19.00 plus $7.00 pack &
post within Australia. Contact Oatley
Electronics, PO Box 89, Oatley NSW
2223, or via their website, www.
oatleyelectronics.com
Parts List –
Auxiliary Battery Controller
1 PC board, 80 x 58mm, coded
OE-K227
1 SPST latching relay, 12V 80A
contacts
1 2-way screw terminal block,
PC mounting
1 8-pin IC socket
2 14-pin IC sockets
Semiconductors
1 L4949 IC (IC1)
1 4001 quad NOR gate (IC2)
1 4093 quad NAND gate (IC3)
1 2N5551 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 2SK700, P239 N-channel
Mosfets (Q2, Q3)
1 high-intensity red LED (LED1)
1 15V 400mW zener (ZD1)
9 1N4148 diodes (D1-D9)
Capacitors
1 100mF 35V electrolytic
3 100mF 16V electrolytic
4 1mF 16V electrolytic
1 22nF polyester
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
5 470kW 2 120kW 2 100kW
2 22kW 1 12kW
1 6.8kW
1 2.2kW 1 1kW
2 22W 1W
2 91kW (for low voltage dropout)
1 2kW horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Not supplied in the Oatley kit:
1 high-current fuseholder and
30A fuse
Heavy-duty (200A) battery
cabling in red and black
Connectors to suit
Suitable mounting case
* Oatley Electronics
December 2006 83
What is a latching relay?
These shots are of the actual latching
relay used in this project, with the
one on the right removed from its
case so you can see what makes it tick.
The two leads welded
to the terminals should
be cut off as they are
not used.
We thought a brief explanation of this component would be in order because
a latching relay is not something that you come across every day. In fact, even
those “in the trade” may not understand the operation nor purpose of a latching relay.
First, a conventional relay: this has an electromagnet, formed by a coil wound
on a soft iron core. While current flows through the coil, a magnetic field is created which attracts a spring-loaded steel armature towards the iron core. The
armature either pushes or pulls electrical contacts towards or away from each
other, making or breaking a circuit (and in most relays, both – breaking one circuit
then making another). When the current stops, the magnetic field collapses, so
the armature springs back and the contacts revert to their normal state.
A latching relay is much the same, except that once the armature has switched
over to the opposite position, it will stay there, even when the current through the
coil stops. It will only switch back the other way when told to by the controlling
circuit. You could even disconnect the latching relay from the circuit completely
and it would still stay in the last-set position.
A good analogy is a standard switch: you push the lever one way and it stays
there until you push it the other way. The difference is that instead of a finger
pushing or pulling a lever, you have the magnetic field pushing or pulling the
armature. The armature may be held in place by a permanent magnet or it may
be mechanically latched, based on a spring and detent system (which, incidentally, is how most switches stay in the selected position).
Another analogy is a bistable multivibrator or flipflop – it has two stable states,
neither of which has any pre-eminence over the other.
Latching relays may have two coils – one switching to one position, the second
switching to the other – or it may have a single coil, where the current is reversed
through the coil to switch to the opposite state. This is the type of latching relay
used in this project.
It is a common misconception that latching relays do not consume power
when energised. Although current is not required through the coil to hold the
armature in position, current will still flow if applied, negating the reason for using
a latching relay over a conventional relay. Therefore, a short pulse of current is
normally used to actuate it, just as in this project.
Where conventional relays have a “normally open” (NO) and “normally closed”
(NC) position, latching relays with changeover contacts don’t – because there
is no “normal” position. In our case, the relay is a SPST type so, like a switch,
the contacts are either open or closed (off or on, if you like).
Finally, no relay coil suppression diodes can be used on a single-coil latching
relay because of the polarity reversal. Therefore the voltage rating of any switching
transistor (or Mosfet in this case) must be high enough to safely handle the spike
which occurs when current ceases and the magnetic field collapses.
84 Silicon Chip
regarded as “conventional”: current
flows through the 22W resistor, through
the relay coil, is switched by Q3 and
thence to earth.
But Q2 is connected to the top side of
the coil – so when Q2 turns on current
flows in the opposite direction through
the coil. This of course changes the
polarity of the magnetic field and it is
this which makes the relay change to
the opposite position.
There’s more information on latching relays in the separate panel.
Just in case you were wondering
what happens to IC3d and Q3 while
this is going on, the answer is nothing!
The 1mF capacitor between IC2c and
IC3d is discharged but IC3d’s inputs
are held high by the 470kW resistor
to +5V. Therefore its output stays low
and Mosfet Q3 is turned off.
LED indicator
We haven’t yet mentioned IC3b
and the components around it. This
lights the LED to indicate charging
(a continuous glow) or not charging
(flashing).
IC3b, the diodes and resistors between its output and pin 6 input, and
the associated 1mF capacitor form a
low-frequency (4Hz) oscillator.
If IC3a’s output goes low, as it does
when the master battery voltage is
high, LED1 is connected to earth via
D7 and IC3a, so it glows continuously.
This indicates that the auxiliary battery is charging.
But if IC3a’s output goes high, which
occurs when the main battery voltage
is low, LED1 flashes at about 4Hz via
isolation diode D4, indicating that the
auxiliary battery is not charging.
Putting it together
All components except (of course!)
the auxiliary battery and the in-line
fuse, mount on a single PC board which
measures 80 x 58mm.
The same board is used for the
12V and 24V versions – a link on
the PC board shorts out the appropriate pads for the 12V version.
As usual, start with a visual inspection
of the PC board – just in case. Problem
boards are very unusual these days but
it is possible.
Start with the resistors – their values
are shown in the resistor colour code
table but for 100% assurance, check
them with a digital multimeter before
soldering them in. Use one of the pigtails for the 12V link. The two 22W 1W
siliconchip.com.au
Resistor Colour Codes
No. Value
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
o 5 470kW
yellow purple yellow brown yellow purple black orange brown
o 2 120kW
brown red yellow brown
brown red black orange brown
o 2 100kW
brown black yellow brown brown black black orange brown
o 2 22kW
red red orange brown
red red black red brown
o 1 12kW
brown red orange brown
brown red black red brown
o 1 6.8kW
blue grey red brown
blue grey black brown brown
o 1 2.2kW
red red red brown
red red black brown brown
o 1
1kW
brown black red brown
brown black black brown brown
o 2 22W (1W) red red black brown
red red black gold brown
o 2 91kW*
white brown orange brown white brown black red brown
* if used – see text
resistors mount end-on, as shown in
the photos.
Next to go in are the diodes, including the zener – normally we leave
semiconductors to near last but these
are fiddly little things so get them out
of the way now. Be careful with polarity – most face one way but some are
opposite!
Now solder in all the capacitors;
again, the electrolytic variety are all
polarised. Fortunately, all bar one (the
large 100mF 35V unit) are oriented on
the PC board the same way.
From here, it’s just a case of populating the rest of the board – the input
socket, trimpot, IC sockets (if used),
the LED and transistor and finally the
two Mosfets. Once again, the IC sockets, LED, transistor and Mosfets are
all polarised – follow the component
overlay (and the silk screen on the PC
board surface) carefully.
The thicker line on the overlay and
silk screen denotes the metal side of
the Mosfets. Heatsinks are not required
on the Mosfets given their low duty
cycle.
That leaves one thing – the relay.
It will only go on one way. There are
normally a couple of short lengths of
heavy wire welded to the relay contacts (as shown in our photos) – cut
these off as they are not required. You
can solder the heavy-duty leads to the
batteries direct to these contacts or you
can use appropriate-sized automotive
quick connect terminals. Make sure the
cable you use is rated at 20A or higher
– we measured peak currents of 15A
Capacitor Codes
Value (mF value) IEC EIA
Code
Code
22nF 0.022mF
22n
223
siliconchip.com.au
with a “flat” auxiliary battery and a
fully-charged main battery.
To avoid I2R losses, the leads between the batteries should be kept as
short as possible. We’d be inclined to
mount the adaptor closer to the main
battery than the auxiliary if there was
a preference.
Naturally, it should be mounted in
some form of box to keep moisture
away and the box mounted in a wellventilated area away from the radiator,
moving belts, etc.
Don’t forget the 30A fuse between
the relay and main battery – the fuseholder should be one rated to take the
current (ordinary “appliance” type
in-line 3AG fuseholders will probably
melt!).
In use
Once you have the trimpot set up
with the voltage you want it to switch
over at, operation is completely automatic. When your main battery reaches
the threshold, the relay clicks over to
connect the auxiliary battery and main
battery; when the voltage drops down,
the relay clicks over again to disconnect the two.
You can confirm these actions with a
variable power supply and multimeter
before final installation – you don’t
even need to connect an auxiliary
battery.
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WHERE
can you buy
SILICON
CHIP
You can get your copy of SILICON CHIP
every month from your newsagent: in
most it’s on sale on the last Wednesday of
the month prior to cover date. You can ask
your newsagent to reserve your copy for
you. If they do not have SILICON CHIP or it
has run out, ask them to contact Network
Distribution Company in your state.
SILICON CHIP is also on sale in all
Low voltage dropout protection
stores . . . again, you can ask the store
manager to reserve a copy for you.
This project can double-up as a
low voltage drop-out for a 12V or 24V
battery.
Simply by changing the two 120kW
resistors in the voltage divider string
to 91kW, the drop-out voltage is adjustable between 10V and 11.7V. The
drop-in voltage is about 0.6V above
SC
these figures.
Or, to be sure that you never miss an issue
and save money into the bargain, why not
take out a subscription?
The annual cost is just $89.50 within
Australia or $96 (by airmail) to
New Zealand.
Subscribers also get further discounts on
books, and other products we sell.
December 2006 85
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