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Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
The good bits in microwave ovens
You’ve got to be extremely careful with micro
wave ovens – even a “dead” one can kill you!
Here’s how to render it safe and salvage some
very useful parts.
F
IND A HEAP OF discarded consumer goods and nine times out
of ten there will be a microwave oven
in there.
Provided it’s free, there are plenty of
small but useful components inside a
microwave oven that are worth salvaging. However, there’s also a potentially
fatal surprise for anyone who delves
into the innards of a microwave oven
without knowing what they’re doing.
So how can you make sure you survive
the encounter and what will you find
in there that’s useful?
Danger!
Inside a microwave oven is a capacitor
that may well be fully charged to well over
2000V. If so, that capacitor has enough
Once you have connected the Active
and Neutral pins of the power plug
together (to discharge any capacitor
on the mains side), cut the power cord
off so the oven cannot possibly be
plugged into the mains. This is a very
important safety step.
siliconchip.com.au
stored energy to kill you, so it must be
made harmless before you can proceed
any further. In addition, there may also
be other charged capacitors on the
mains input just waiting to deliver a
nasty shock.
In some ovens, there is a bleed resistor across the high-voltage capacitor
(or inside the capacitor) to discharge
it after the oven is switched off. However, there is no guarantee that this
resistor (if it’s there) has done its job
as it may no longer be intact.
If the bleed resistor has gone open circuit or if no bleed resistor is present, then
the high-voltage capacitor could still easily have several thousand volts on it long
after the oven has been switched off and
disconnected from the wall socket. What’s
more, it can retain this lethal charge for
many months.
That means that you have to assume
that the capacitor is charged to a lethal
voltage and must be safely discharged
before you can remove any parts from
the oven. You do that by first briefly
shorting each capacitor terminal to
chassis and then shorting the terminals directly together to make sure
– all without touching anything.
First, you will need two long, insulated screwdrivers suitable for working with high voltages (ie, 5000V or
more), thick rubber gloves (eg, those
used for handling acids, not the thin
type used for washing up), a short
length of heavy-duty insulated wire
with well-insulated alligator clips at
each end (see panel), thick rubbersoled shoes (or a thick rubber mat to
stand on) and protective goggles (to
protect your eyes from flying molten
metal).
On the left is the mains transformer and on right is the potentially lethal high
voltage capacitor. You need to be able to access the terminals of the capacitor
to be able to safely discharge it. Note that the thick heavily insulated cables
seen here connect to the magnetron – discharging of the capacitor may also be
achievable at the magnetron.
December 2006 93
Use A Heavy-Duty Clip Lead
Note that the light-duty clip lead shown in
these photos is for demonstration purposes
only.
In practice, you should use a heavy-duty
clip lead made from 10A mains wire (to insure
adequate insulation and current rating), with wellinsulated alligator clips at either end. DO NOT use
alligator clips with thin insulation.
Before using the clip lead, use a multimeter
switched to a low ohms range to ensure that
the lead is intact – ie, there should be zero
ohms between the two crocodile clips. Check
the lead each time it is used, to ensure it is
still intact.
will often indicate its high working
voltage (eg, 2100V AC).
Wear rubber gloves & goggles
To safely salvage the components from a microwave oven you must first
discharge the high voltage capacitor that’s inside. To do so you’ll need two high
voltage insulated screwdrivers (one shown here), thick rubber gloves of the sort
sold for handling chemicals, and a heavy-duty jumper lead equipped with wellinsulated alligator clips (see panel). Additionally, you’ll need safety goggles and
rubber soled shoes or a thick rubber mat.
The first step is to connect the Active
and Neutral pins of the power plug
together using the alligator clip lead
(be sure to wear the rubber gloves).
This will discharge any capacitors
across the mains input (but NOT the
high-voltage capacitor). Alternatively,
you can simply short all three pins on
the plug to a metal plate. Once this
has been done, cut off the cord so
that the oven cannot be plugged into
the mains.
Next, remove the back of the microwave (don’t touch any of the parts or
wiring) and locate the high-voltage
capacitor. It will be in a metal canister
near the transformer. Thick, heavilyinsulated leads will connect the capacitor, magnetron and transformer. In
addition, the labelling on the capacitor
Discharging the high voltage capacitor involves shorting each side of the
capacitor (ie, each of its terminals) to earth, using a high-voltage insulated
screwdriver, thick rubber gloves and a jumper lead equipped with alligator
clips. Any exposed terminals on the magnetron should also be shorted to earth.
94 Silicon Chip
First, make a visual inspection to
ensure you can access the capacitor’s
HV terminals and any exposed terminals on the back of the magnetron. DO
NOT touch the capacitor’s terminals
or any of the high-voltage wiring (this
includes the wiring to the magnetron).
If the capacitor’s terminals are hard to
access and you don’t know what you’re
doing, replace the cover immediately
and quit while you’re ahead.
Now, wearing the gloves, safety
glasses and rubber soled shoes (or
standing on the rubber mat), attach
one alligator clip of the jumper lead to
a good earth point (unpainted) on the
metal chassis and the other alligator
clip (at the other end of the lead) to the
metal tip of one of the screwdrivers.
Next, holding the screwdriver by
its insulating handle, touch the tip
of the screwdriver (complete with its
attached alligator clip) to the exposed
terminals of the magnetron and then
to each of the capacitor’s terminals in
turn. There may be a bright flash and a
bang as the capacitor discharges, hence
the need for the goggles. Of course, if
the capacitor is not charged, nothing
will happen (or, if nothing happens,
it might not have discharged).
Note: exercise extreme caution if
you have to undo the bracket holding
the capacitor in place is order to access its terminals. Also, in many cases,
you will have to prise up the insulated
clips on the capacitor’s terminals to
expose them. Use an insulated screwdriver for this job and make sure you
are wearing the rubber gloves.
siliconchip.com.au
Microwave Ovens Are Dangerous!
Microwave ovens can be lethal devices. Never take the cover off a microwave oven and apply power or work on a live one. The high-voltage
mains transformer and its associated high-voltage capacitor that power the
magnetron can easily kill you.
Silicon Chip
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In fact, the high-tension output from the transformer and the 3000V DC
or so developed by the capacitor and diode rectifier circuit are considerably
more dangerous than the 20-30,000V EHT in a colour TV set. That’s because
the microwave high-tension supply is designed to supply real current!
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Even after it has been switched off and disconnected from the mains, a
microwave oven circuit is extremely dangerous. The high-voltage capacitor
can retain a lethal charge for quite some time (perhaps even months) after
its last use.
The moral here is simple – NEVER poke around inside a microwave
oven (even a “dead” one) until the high-voltage capacitor has been safely
discharged (see article).
Do not even think of removing the cover of a microwave oven to
salvage parts unless you are experienced, know exactly what you
doing and fully understand the instructions given in this article for
discharging the high-voltage capacitor. This is not a job for amateurs
or for those with limited knowledge. People have been killed working
on supposedly “dead” microwave ovens and salvaging a few parts is
not worth your life!
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When the high-voltage
capacitor has been discharged,
it should be removed and its
terminals bridged, so that
you know it is definitely
discharged. Important: use
a heavy-duty clip lead when
discharging the capacitor – see
panel on facing page. A lightduty clip lead like the one
shown here has inadequate
insulation for high voltage use
and can easily fuse (they even
go open-circuit in normal use).
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Now wait a few minutes and then
discharge the capacitor again. This
step is necessary because the initial
discharge may have only partially
discharged the capacitor.
Making sure
By now the capacitor should have discharged but it might not have if there is a
wiring fault in the oven (eg, if thewiring to
the magnetron is open circuit), which
is why the oven was discarded in the
first place.
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The only way to be sure is to directly
bridge the capacitor’s terminals. That’s
best done by first using your DMM
to check the integrity of the shorting
clip. You can then connect the clip
lead between the two screwdriver tips
and then simultaneously apply each
screwdriver tip to the capacitor’s terminals to short them together (ie, via
the attached clip lead).
That done, unclip the jumper lead
from the screwdrivers and connect
it across the capacitor’s terminals.
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December 2006 95
➋
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➎
➏
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❾
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Here are the parts typically salvageable from a microwave oven: (1) Magnetron
– good magnets inside; (2) Transformer – it must be discarded; (3) 25W 240V
bulb – good as a spare for your own oven; (4) Machine thread and self-tapping
plated screws; (5) High power resistor; (6) 240V fan, (7) Microswitches – usually
four in each oven; (8) 240V synchronous motor and gearbox with about 5 RPM
output; (9) Temperature switches.
You can then remove the HV capacitor and we strongly recommend that
you solder a wire bridge across it’s
terminals. Only now can you take off
the gloves, goggles and rubber shoes.
It cannot be over-emphasised that
microwave ovens with charged internal HV capacitors are extremely dangerous! You absolutely must ensure
that the HV capacitor is discharged
before proceeding.
What ever you do, don’t remove the
capacitor and leave it where some
unsuspecting person might pick it up!
Salvaging useful parts
Most people don’t immediately
associate a microwave oven with big
strong magnets and microswitches.
However, along with quite a few other
bits and pieces, you’ll find these in virtually all salvaged microwave ovens.
After you’ve discharged and re96 Silicon Chip
moved the high-voltage capacitor,
you can remove the two nearby large
components – the mains transformer
and the magnetron.
Unfortunately, despite initial appearances, the transformer isn’t worth
keeping. The transformer is a stepup design that multiplies the 240V
applied to the primary about eight
times, thus giving around 2000V on
the secondary. Therefore, it would
theoretically appear that if 240V is
applied to what was previously the HV
secondary, about 30V will be available
on what was previously the primary.
However, these transformers use a
secondary that is earthed at the transformer frame, so the secondary MUST
NOT be connected to mains power.
Interestingly, on these transformers,
there’s also another secondary that
looks suitable for a low voltage output
when mains power is connected to the
original primary. However, that would
leave 2000V across on the terminals
next door – potentially lethal.
In short, throw the transformer
in the rubbish bin (so no-one else is
tempted to use it). It’s too dangerous
to use in any other application.
By contrast, the magnetron is worth
salvaging – no, not to make a ray gun
to shoot the neighbour’s cat but for
the extremely powerful disc shaped
magnets that are inside. These can be
used wherever you need strong magnets. One good application is to glue a
magnet to the base of a plastic or metal
dish in which to keep nuts and bolts.
That’s especially useful when you’re
disassembling a piece of equipment
– even if you knock over the dish, the
nuts and bolts won’t go anywhere.
Note that these magnets can be fractured, leaving very sharp edges – so be
careful when handling them.
While you’re in this section of the
oven you can remove the temperature
switches. All ovens have one and some
have two. These are normally-closed
(NC) designs that go open circuit if an
over-temperature condition occurs.
These can be salvaged for use in other
equipment. Often the trip temperature
is written on the switches – 95°C and
125°C are common.
You’ll also find several microswitches (usually four). These snap-action
switches are used in the door interlock
mechanism and usually have a high
current rating; eg, 16A at 250V AC.
Don’t forget the fan
All microwave ovens use an internal fan. These 240V fans are not
enclosed (ie, the motor terminals and
windings are exposed) but they are fine
if mounted inside a case, with suitable
insulation applied to the terminals.
Even if you don’t have a use for
a 240V fan, you’ll find the blade assembly easily pulls off the shaft and
can just as easily be pushed onto the
shaft of a small DC motor. In fact, my
personal desk fan comprises an exmicrowave fan-blade assembly powered by an ex-VCR DC motor, mounted
on a small salvaged in-line power
supply. It is quiet, compact and very
effective – and each summer I marvel
at the longevity of the motor which in
its two lives must have done an awful
lot of revolutions!
What else?
So what else will you find in the
siliconchip.com.au
Two disc-shaped magnets
like these are inside the
magnetron. As shown,
they’re very strong and so
have lots of uses.
oven? Well, in addition to the above
“goodies”, you will find a high-power
ceramic resistor (typically 20W and
800W), a compact 25W 240V light bulb
(best put aside as a spare for your own
microwave oven) and the turntable
motor. The latter is a compact and
enclosed 240V AC synchronous unit
that uses an internal geartrain to provide an output speed of about 5 RPM.
This is ideal for use wherever you want
something to slowly rotate (a spit on
a barbecue perhaps?). It can also be
mechanically driven backwards, to act
as a compact high-voltage alternator;
eg, for use as a hand-cranked LED torch
(see Salvage It! for January 2006).
The touchpad/LCD/timer assem-
bly can also be removed and put to
use – see “A Digital Timer for Less
than $20” in the August 2003 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Conclusion
The parts salvaged from a microwave can be used in lots of other applications. These parts include switches,
magnets, fans, high-power resistors
and the turntable motor. They take
up very little storage space and can be
quickly and easily salvaged.
But whatever you do, make sure that
you first carefully and safely discharge
the high-voltage capacitor – we want
you to be around to salvage lots of
SC
other goodies in the future!
Custom-made Lithium Ion, NiCd
and NiMH battery packs
Rat It Before You
Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old
TV (or VCR or washing machine or
dishwasher or printer) do you always
think that surely there must be some
good salvageable components inside?
Well, this column is for you! (And it’s
also for people without a lot of dough.)
Each month we’ll use bits and pieces
sourced from discards, sometimes in
mini-projects and other times as an
ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
easily be salvaged from goods commonly being thrown away, we’d love
to hear from you. Perhaps you use the
pressure switch from a washing machine to control a pump. Or maybe you
salvage the high-quality bearings from
VCR heads. Or perhaps you’ve found
how the guts of a cassette player can
be easily turned into a metal detector.
(Well, we made the last one up but you
get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas,
write in and tell us!
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(08) 9302 5444
Li-Ion Smart Chargers
2400mAh NiMH AA cells
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High-quality single cell chargers
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December 2006 97
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