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By JIM ROWE
Starship Enterprise
Door Sounder
Here’s a project especially for trekkies. At the closure of remote
switch contacts, it recreates that distinctive “ssshhhhhhh-thump”
sound of the sliding doors opening or closing on the “Starship
Enterprise”. Use it for generating sound effects for your own sci-fi
movies or for hooking up to a bedroom or wardrobe door so you can
pretend you’re aboard the “Enterprise” in deep space, going where
no man has gone before!
G
ENE RODDENBERRY’S original
TV series of “Star Trek” broke
quite a bit of new sci-fi ground in
its day, with imaginative thoughtprovoking stories and a collection
of interesting characters: Captain
James T. Kirk, science officer Spock,
engineer Scotty (“you canna’ change
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the laws of physics, Jim”) and so on.
Small wonder it spawned a number of
spin-off movies and a follow-on series,
along with a huge following of ‘trekkie’ fans who seem just as dedicated
today as they were 30 years ago – no
doubt helped by the release of all the
original episodes on DVD.
Of course, along with those original
episodes, many keen trekkies also like
to acquire “Star Trek” memorabilia:
replicas of the costumes worn by
the “Enterprise” crew, copies of Mr
Spock’s pointy ears, fake phaser guns
and so on. They also like being able
to generate some of the distinctive
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit uses an HK828 sound recorder chip (IC1) to store two different “Starship Enterprise” door sounds.
This drives audio amplifier stage IC2 to replay one of these sounds when switch S1 or S2 is momentarily closed.
sound effects which helped make the
first series so memorable.
So if you have a friend or relative
who’s one of these dedicated trekkies,
you might want to build this project
for them – or for yourself! It recreates
the “ssshhhHHHh-thump” sound
that always accompanied the sliding
power doors opening or closing on the
“Starship Enterprise” and can be triggered by either pressing a pushbutton
or closing the contacts of an external
switch (eg, a reed switch activated by
a bedroom door or sliding wardrobe
door). It’s also quite easy to build and
can be operated from a 9V battery or
12V plugpack.
Coming up with the sound
When I was first asked (by Jaycar) to
develop this project, I initially spent
some time watching old “Star Trek”
episodes and listening to the sound of
“Starship Enterprise” doors opening
and closing (hard work, but somebody
siliconchip.com.au
had to do it!). I also examined the
shape of the waveform envelope and
did a few spot checks of the frequency
components present at various points
in the waveform.
Armed with this information, I then
set to work and came up with quite a
fancy circuit which generated a burst
of white noise, shaped its envelope to
produce a “ssshhhHHHh” sound and
then mixed in some low-frequency
components to produce the required
thump as the door closed at the end.
Well, to cut a long story short, it
did work and the sound it made was
a reasonable reminder of an Enterprise
door operating.
Since this sound was less than
one second long, it could easily be
recorded in a solid-state voice recorder chip, like the HK828 device
used in the Voice Recorder module
described in the May 2005 issue of
SILICON CHIP. That way, constructors
would not have to build the original
circuit which was rather complicated. Instead, the synthesised sound
produced by that circuit would be
pre-programmed into HK828 devices
and supplied with the kits (Jaycar has
copyright – see panel).
In fact, the HK828 is capable of
recording about 30 seconds of sound
at its highest sampling rate, so it can
easily store as many as four different
sound “files” like the “Starship Enterprise” door sound.
So that’s the basis of this project. It’s
essentially a stripped-down version
of the May 2005 Voice Recorder, able
to play back two slightly versions of
the “Starship Enterprise” door sound
from pre-programmed HK828 chips.
How it works
Fig.1 shows the circuit diagram of
the unit. It’s very similar to the Voice
Recorder, the main difference being
that here we’re using the HK828 chip
for playback only. That’s because it
June 2006 93
Fig.2: this block diagram shows what’s inside the HK828 sound recorder chip. The circuit blocks associated with
recording are not used in this particular application, since we are using the playback function only (the chip is
supplied pre-recorded).
will be supplied pre-programmed with
the sound effect “recordings”.
Because the HK828 chip still forms
the functional heart of the project,
we’ll give you a quick rundown on
what’s inside it. You can see the chip’s
basic architecture from the block diagram of Fig.2. We won’t worry about
the internal circuit sections used for
recording, because they’re not being
used in this case (if you want to understand how they work, refer to the
May 2005 article).
In fact, the only section on the lefthand side of Fig.2 we’re making use of
here is the “Internal Oscillator”. This
section actually generates the HK828’s
sampling clock for playback, as well as
recording. Its frequency is determined
by an external resistor (from pin 7 to
ground), which in this case has a value
of 22kW to give a sampling rate of about
8.7kHz – about as fast as the HK828
can operate, to achieve its best audio
bandwidth.
Now although the recorded audio is
stored as samples inside the HK828,
this is done using an analog sampleand-hold system rather than the more
common digital sampling. This is
because it stores the samples in an array of 262,144 (256K) Flash EEPROM
analog storage cells, each of which
can store any of 256 different voltage
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levels. This gives the equivalent of
8-bit digital recording.
As shown in Fig.2, the recording
and playback of samples in the storage array is controlled by analog write
and read circuits, along with the message control and message addressing
circuits. When a recorded sound is
being played back, the signals are fed
through a low-pass filter to remove
sampling noise and then fed to the
internal output amplifier. The rest of
the circuitry inside the HK828 chip
is used for overall device control and
mode switching, etc.
As mentioned above, the HK828 can
be configured to store and play back
either a single sound “recording” (like
a tape recorder) or a fixed number of
shorter recordings. In this case, it’s
configured to play back either of two
shorter recordings.
Main circuit
Now let’s go back to the main circuit
– see Fig.1. As shown, the replayed
audio signal is taken from pin 14 of
the HK828 (IC1) and fed via a 10kW
series resistor and 10mF capacitor to
trimpot VR1 which is used to adjust
the output volume. The audio signal
is then fed via a 2.2mF capacitor to the
non-inverting input of IC2, a TDA1905
audio power amplifier. This is config-
ured to have a voltage gain of 100, as
set by the 10kW and 100W resistors in
the negative feedback divider.
IC2 can deliver about 800mW of
audio power to an 8W speaker with a
9V DC supply and about 1.4W of power
with a 12V DC supply – enough to
produce a convincing sound level from
the 57mm mini-speaker. Of course, it
will produce an even more convincing
sound from a larger speaker.
As stated, the HK828 chip can be
configured to split its internal memory
into either two or four chunks. This is
done by connecting either one or the
other of its MSEL pins (pins 24 & 25)
to ground. In this case, the device is
configured for two recorded sounds
by connecting pin 24 to ground, via a
small copper track on the underside
of the PC board.
To trigger the HK828 into replaying
one of its sound recordings, a negativegoing pulse with a duration of about
500ms is applied to one of its trigger
inputs – ie, M1-bar to M4-bar. In this
circuit, only M1-bar (pin 1) and M2bar (pin 2) are used, to replay the two
recorded sounds.
The actual triggering pulses are
provided by closing the contacts of
either remote switch S1 or remote
switch S2. In each case, this applies
a negative-going pulse to the corresiliconchip.com.au
Fig.3 (left: follow this parts layout diagram and the photo
above when installing the parts on the PC board. The
LED can either be mounted on the PC board (and used for
testing purposes only) or it can be mounted on the front
panel and connected to the PC board via flying leads.
Make sure that all polarised parts are correctly installed
and that IC1’s pins all go into the socket and are not bent
underneath the device or splayed out.
sponding chip input via an associated
2.2mF capacitor. The capacitor then
subsequently discharges again via its
associated 220kW resistor when the
switch contacts open again.
This prevents the chip from being
repeatedly triggered if the switch contacts remain closed. In fact, they must
be opened and the capacitor allowed
to discharge, before being closed again
in order to retrigger the circuit.
The main idea of this is to allow you
to use remote reed switches or micro
switches, so that the unit can be wired
to operate automatically when you open
or close a bedroom door, etc.
When the HK828 is playing back
a sound, it switches its Strobe-bar
pin (pin 22) low once every 200ms
or so. This drives LED1 via a 680W
current-limiting resistor, so that the
LED “blinks” during playback.
Power supply
The HK828 has a maximum supsiliconchip.com.au
ply voltage of 6V. As a result, a 7806
3-terminal regulator (REG1) is used to
derive a +6V rail from the 9-12V DC
supply used to power audio amplifier
IC2. Diode D1 prevents damage due to
accidental reversed polarity.
The 9-12V DC source used to power
the project can be either a plugpack
or battery. This must be capable of
supplying about 25mA continuously
when the circuit is at idle and up to
150mA or so when it is producing
sound.
Construction
Apart from the loudspeaker (and
possibly LED1), all the components
are mounted on a PC board coded
01206061 and measuring 111 x 57mm.
This board has rounded corner cutouts at one end, so that it fits snugly
inside a standard UB3-size jiffy box at
that end. The speaker is mounted on
the box lid, while the 9-12V DC power
source is fed in through a 2.5mm
concentric DC connector mounted on
the PC board.
Also on the board is a small terminal block. This accepts the leads from
remote trigger switches S1 & S2, the
leads entering via small holes in the
side of the box.
Fig.3 shows the parts layout on
the PC board. Begin by fitting two
PC board terminal pins at one end of
the board for the connections to the
speaker. Once these are in, you can
also fit connector CON1 and the small
terminal block.
Next, fit trimpot VR1, making sure
you orientate it correctly, then fit
the resistors. Follow these with the
capacitors, beginning with the small
monolithic ceramics and then working
your way through the MKT, tantalum
and aluminium electrolytic types.
Remember that while the monolithic and MKT types are not polarised,
the tantalum and aluminium electrolytics are indeed polarised and must
June 2006 95
(as in Fig.3). If you choose the latter
option, you will have to drill an extra
hole in the front panel and secure the
LED using epoxy adhesive.
Note that the flying leads for LED1
are soldered directly to the board
rather than to PC board pins.
The final component to fit to the
board is regulator REG1, which is
mounted horizontally. To do this, first
bend its leads downwards by 90° about
6mm from the regulator package. That
done, fasten it in place using an M3 x
6mm machine screw and nut before
soldering its leads to their respective
board pads.
The PC board assembly is now complete and you can fit the wires used to
connect the speaker. These speaker
wires can be made from a 110mm
length of light-duty figure-8 flex.
Par t s Lis t
1 plastic utility box, UB3 size
(130 x 67 x 44mm)
1 PC board, code 01206061, 57
x 111mm
1 57mm mini speaker, 8-ohm
impedance
1 3-way screw terminal block,
PC-mount
1 28-pin IC socket, 0.6-inch PCmount
1 2.5mm concentric DC connector,
PC-mount (CON1)
2 PC board terminal pins
4 M3 x 10mm machine screws,
countersink head
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw,
round head
9 M3 nuts
1 20kW horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 HK828 sound recorder chip,
pre-recorded (IC1)
1 TDA1905 audio amplifier (IC2)
1 7806 +6V regulator (REG1)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
1 1N4004 power diode (D1)
be fitted the correct way around. The
wiring diagram indicates the positive
lead of each polarised capacitor with
a small ‘+’.
One point to watch with the 100nF
capacitors is that two of these are
multilayer monolithic ceramics, while
the remaining four are the larger rectangular MKT type. The monolithic
capacitors go in the indicated positions
at either end of IC1, while the MKT types
go in the remaining positions.
Once the capacitors are all in position, fit diode D1. This is again polarised, so make sure you orientate it as
shown. That done, install IC2, which
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 1000mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 220mF 10V RB electrolytic
1 100mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 47mF 16V RB electrolytic
2 10mF 10V RB electrolytic
1 4.7mF 25V tantalum
4 2.2mF 25V tantalum
1 220nF MKT metallised
polyester
4 100nF MKT metallised
polyester
2 100nF multilayer monolithic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
3 220kW
2 100W
6 22kW
1 47W
2 10kW
1 1W
1 680W
Final assembly
The PC assembly is now ready to be
mounted into the box. Before doing so
though, give it a careful inspection to
make sure that you haven’t made any
bad solder joints or left solder bridges
shorting between tracks or IC pads.
It’s also worth double-checking that
you’ve fitted all polarised parts with
their correct orientation.
Once you’re satisfied that everything
is OK, the board can be mounted inside
the box. This is secured using four M3
x 10mm countersink-head machine
screws, which are passed up from the
underside and secured using star lockwashers and M3 nuts which also act
as spacers. The board is then lowered
onto these “spacers” and secured using
four more M3 nuts.
The speaker is mounted on the rear
of the box lid, behind an array of holes
which are provided to let the sound
out. It is held in place using “Araldite”
or similar epoxy cement, which is
applied to the front of the speaker’s
outer rim before introducing it to the
Where To Buy A Kit
This project was sponsor
ed by
Jaycar Electronics, who own the
design copyright. A complete kit
of parts is available from Jaycar
for $39.95 – Cat. KC-5423.
should be soldered directly into the
board. This is important for its stability
and also improves heat dissipation.
By contrast, IC1 plugs into a 28-pin
socket. Be sure to install this socket
with its “notched” end towards the
47W resistor, to guide you in plugging
in the HK828 chip. When the socket
pins are all soldered to the board pads
underneath, you can plug IC1 into
the socket. Be sure to do this without
damaging any of its pins.
LED1 can either be mounted on the
PC board (as in the prototype), or it can
be mounted on the front panel and connected to the PC board by flying leads
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
3
6
2
1
2
1
1
96 Silicon Chip
Value
220kW
22kW
10kW
680W
100W
47W
1W
4-Band Code (1%)
red red yellow brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
brown black gold gold
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
brown black black silver brown
siliconchip.com.au
rear of the lid. Once it’s in place, you
can apply a bead of the cement around
the rim for good measure. Place the assembly aside for a few hours to allow
the cement to cure.
When the epoxy cement has cured,
solder the free ends of the speaker
connection wires to the speaker lugs.
That done, pass the bared ends of the
connecting leads for the remote trigger switches (S1 and S2) through the
holes in the lower side of the box and
connect them to the terminal block
using the screws. Note that the “earth”
wires from both switches connect to
the centre hole of the terminal block.
It’s a good idea to twist them together
before pushing them in and tightening
the screw.
The project is now ready for checkout and adjustment.
Checkout & adjustment
Before applying power, adjust trimpot VR1 to roughly the middle of its
range. That done, connect a 9-12V DC
power supply to CON1 and touch the
ends of the connection wires for S1 together briefly. You should immediately
hear the recorded door sound, lasting
almost a second.
When it ends, try touching the ends
of the wires for S2 together, to produce the second sound recorded on
the HK828. LED1 should blink while
either sound is being played.
You should be able to adjust the
Fig.2: the circuit board fits neatly inside a standard UB3-size plastic case
and is secured using M3 x 10mm machine screws and nuts – see text. The
loudspeaker is secured to the lid using epoxy adhesive.
volume of the sounds up or down to
the level you want using trimpot VR1.
This is the only adjustment to be made,
so once you’ve found the right volume
setting, the unit can be completed by
screwing on the box lid using the four
self-tapping screws provided.
That’s it! Your Door Sounder is now
finished and ready for use. Beam me
SC
up, Scotty!
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