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siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
Vol.19, No.5; May 2006
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
24 Advances In Diesel Engine Management, Pt.2
A look at the electronic control systems – by Julian Edgar
30 Review: ELAB-080 Electronics Lab
Five general-purpose instruments in one low-cost package – by Peter Smith
PROJECTS TO BUILD
6 Lead-Acid Battery Zapper & Condition Checker
Improved design can check battery condition and has output sockets so that
you can monitor the zapping pulses using a multimeter – by Jim Rowe
44 Universal High-Energy LED Lighting System, Pt.2
Lead-Acid Battery Zapper &
Condition Checker – Page 6.
Second article has all the construction details. And we show you how to make
a very effective Luxeon-powered spotlight for bicycles – by John Clarke
62 A Passive Direct Injection Box For Musicians
Don’t let hum & noise spoil your performance. This DI box performs as well as
a powered unit but doesn’t need batteries – by John Clarke
72 Remote Mains Relay Box
Passive Direct
Injection Box
For Musicians –
Page 62.
Switch mains voltages safely with this easy-to-build unit – by Bill de Rose &
Ross Tester
78 Vehicle Voltage Monitor
Want to monitor the battery voltage, the airflow meter signal or the oxygen
sensor signal in your car? Here’s the answer – by John Clarke
88 Picaxe Goes Wireless, Pt.2
Networking, logging data, plus light & temperature sensors – by Clive Seager
100 Boost Your XBee’s Range Using Simple Antennas
Simple “roll your own” antennas for the XBee – by Stan Swan
SPECIAL COLUMNS
32 Circuit Notebook
(1) Automatic Exhaust Fan; (2) Rotary Encoder For PIC Projects; (3) Tank
To Cistern Pump; (4) Picaxe-Powered Pocket Timer; (5) LED Torch Bulbs
40 Serviceman’s Log
The one-day technician – by the TV Serviceman
Vehicle Voltage Monitor – Page 78.
68 Salvage It!
Improving the sound of salvaged loudspeaker systems – by Julian Edgar
94 Vintage Radio
The rare Edison R6 console receiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
61
92
102
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
Book Reviews
siliconchip.com.au
106
109
110
112
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
Boost Your XBee’s Range Using
Simple Antennas – Page 100.
May 2006 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Lawrence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 8035
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
lawrence<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
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E-mail: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Publisher’s Letter
iPOD hearing risk is
nothing new
Recent reports about a legal suit in the state
of California concerning the risk of hearing loss
should not be regarded as anything really new.
Allegedly, the iPOD can produce sound levels up
to 115dB and if you are exposed to those levels
for anything but a short time, you will certainly
experience temporary hearing loss. If you do it
repeatedly, you will go deaf.
Partly, the American legal suit is based on the
fact that Apple has limited the output of iPODs sold in France to 100dB –
still very loud but not as dangerous as 115dB. My response to this that all
iPODs, MP3 players, Discmans, etc do come with a volume control. The
iPOD’s volume control is particularly intriguing but it works very well – you
can turn the level up and down at will. Turn it up really high and yes, your
hearing could be damaged. Do iPOD users care? Probably not.
Should they come with a hearing warning? No. Warnings don’t work for
cigarettes or alcohol so why would they work for iPODs.
Are you worried about your son’s or daughter’s hearing? If you can hear
the music while they are wearing the earphones, it is probably quite loud, so
yes, be concerned. I wish you good luck in trying to change their behaviour.
There is nothing new here. People have been abusing their hearing ever
since personal music players have been around – for the last 25 years at
least. Probably a majority of the population have inflicted significant hearing loss on themselves by the time they are 40. And because hearing loss is
so insidious, they probably don’t even know it. A huge number of people
these days listen to their car radios or TVs with the sound levels very high
– a sure sign that they are at least partially deaf.
In fact, I find it ironic that people willingly and regularly subject themselves
to sound levels that would cause a punitive action against their employers
by Workcover, if it happened while they were working.
Of more concern to me is the number of people who now wear (use?)
iPODs while walking or jogging along the road. More usually than not, they
jog while facing away from the traffic so they are completely oblivious to
any hazard from passing traffic. In effect, they are lacking road sense as well
as any concern for their own hearing. It seems to me that any pedestrian
killed or injured while using an iPOD or other player must be regarded as
having contributed to their own misfortune.
If you are a driver and you see someone jogging along the road, assume
they are wearing an iPOD and be especially wary – they probably don’t
know you are right behind them!
Leo Simpson
ISSN 1030-2662
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Innovative • Unique • Interesting • Hard to find products
Now supports
LGA 775 CPUs!
Bluetooth
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This industrial motherboard is based on
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Cordless Bluetooth
Barcode Scanner
This cordless CCD scanner uses Bluetooth
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Requires AA batteries (not included)
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PCMCIA Dual
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This Dual Slot PCMCIA adapter for PC
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LCD Picture
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Cat 4717-7 8in $699
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Add two serial ports to
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RFID Controller
The Temperature Logger comes in two pieces, one being the
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The tags themselves have a similar face size to a credit
card. They can log temperatures from -40 to +85 and store
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Remote Power Switch
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Barcode
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The Remote Power Switch (RPS) is an IP based, Web Controlled, AC power
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Cat 8558-7 $499
Programmable
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making it ideal for use in boats or cars.
Cat 1167-7 $750
USB VGA Adapter
Plugs into a USB 2.0 port and allows the
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A great value robust
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Cardbus Gigabit
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FireWire
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Upgrade your laptop LAN
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Cat 11465-7 $65
Suits a 2.5" laptop style HD.
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Broadband
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Connect a standard telephone
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plug it into your Internet
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Cat 10181-7 $449
3 in, 1 out. Component Video
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Cat 23032-7 $99
USB 2.0 TV Box
Dual ADSL Router
16 Way
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Watch TV and Listen to FM
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Also supports capture from
an RCA or S-Video input.
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This rack-mountable switch
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All prices subject to change without notice. For current pricing visit our website. Pictures are indicative only.
May 2006 3
SHORE AD/MGRM0606
Pentium 4
with ISA
MAILBAG
Nuclear power stations
do vent gases
In your reply to Rory Shannon’s
letter on nuclear power (Mailbag, February 2006), you stated that “nuclear
power stations do not routinely vent
radioactive gases”.
This is not correct. The dominant
design in the US, Babcock and Wilcox
pressurised boiling water reactors
(PWR), such as Three Mile Island, do
exactly that. Short-lived daughters
are formed in the primary loop and
routinely vented in normal operation,
for which they are licensed.
This has all been very well documented, not least by the US Nuclear Regulatory Commission in their
‘WASH’ incident reports. “Sniffing”
the composition of reactor emissions
is a stock tool of spying (eg, the US
and North Korea).
Nuclear power stations do not operate in isolation but as part of a system;
mining, fuel fabrication, operation,
fuel waste treatment and reprocessing,
intractable waste disposal and decommissioning.
Diversion of material for weapons,
either nuclear or terrorist dirty bombs,
is a real and very obvious concern (eg,
Iran, North Korea, India, Pakistan,
Israel and China). At least coal-fired
power stations don’t produce a highly
toxic explosive as waste.
No power system, nuclear, hydro,
geothermal, solar, wind, tidal, even
fusion, can meet an endless and evergrowing demand.
The real question is how we maintain a genuine quality of life with far
less energy use. The current winners,
Big Energy Money, represented by
the AP6 have no interest in fostering
debate on this vital question.
Coupling our future well-being to
ever growing energy use is junkie
logic.
Roly Roper,
Ivanhoe, Vic.
Telephone ring
cadence correction
In current March 2006 issue there is
an article by Jim Rowe on a telephone/
fax indicator circuit. He states that the
4 Silicon Chip
cadence of ring current in Australia is
200 millisecond pulses of ring. In fact
they are twice this and the cadence is
0.4 on, 0.2 off, 0.4 on, then two seconds
off then repeat.
It is a small point but worth correcting.
Alec Slamin,
via email.
Salvage possibilities
for washing machines
As a ruthless ratter/hoarder/tinkerer, I very much enjoy the “Salvage
It!” article each month – so much so
that I now look back a bit forlornly
at those old washing machines that
got away.
Would there be room for a stripper’s
list – the stuff that is worth extracting
from some different kinds of ancient,
wheezy or just busted appliances
before chucking the stripped corpse?
And how about a “Salvage It!”
online forum on what we have got
and what we are after? Transport and
handling can be a cost in all this, I
know, but it seems a pity to limit your
scrounging to just one pair of eyes and
one “junk” box. Some of the online
forums get a lot of use and could alert
other dedicated salvagers to potential
treasure troves.
Peter Brownlee,
Katoomba, NSW.
Comment: we’ve probably covered
this topic in the past. However, if you
are ratting washing machines, dishwashers or clothes dryers, you should
certainly look at saving motors, motor/
pumps, water solenoids or anything
controlled by solenoids, water level
and temperature sensors, timers and
microswitches. You might also want
to save drive belts and parts of the
wiring harness with quick-connects.
Of course, if you go overboard you will
eventually find yourself with too much
stuff that you can never use.
The pumps in washing machines
and dishwashers could be useful
in water reticulation, fish ponds,
hydroponics and so on. Mind you,
most of these items are not rated for
continuous use and may not have a
long life in these applications. If they
are free though, that probably does
not matter.
One other point should be considered. All motors used in appliances
such as washing machines and dishwashers are usually of open-frame
construction and have exposed windings and connections. Hence, if they
are recycled, they should be housed
in an earthed metal enclosure so that
there is no possibility of accidental
contact with them.
Too much bass
could have been more
I was very impressed by Phil
Prosser’s letter (Mailbag, April 2006)
showing his couch subwoofer. Like
Mr Prosser, I am a devotee of the
philosophy “you can never have too
much bass”.
My question to Mr Prosser is this:
what’s wrong with the back side of
the couch? You could have fitted another four of the CS2345 subbys and
looking at the picture of the couch,
you could probably have fitted one
at each end as well! Even more fun!
Even more bass!
Gary Johnston,
Managing Director,
Jaycar Electronics.
Comment: Jaycar might sell a few more
subwoofers as well, eh?
Question on
PIC-based PLL
I have a possibly naive question
about phase locked loops with which
readers might be able to help. Is it easy
or difficult to write a program for a PIC
that will implement a phase locked
loop that will recover the zero crossing from a 50Hz or 60Hz input that is
badly mangled near the zero crossing
but a clean sinewave elsewhere?
I’ve done quite a lot of the obvious
siliconchip.com.au
C-Tick sticker
is no guarantee
The Mailbag pages for March
2006 featured a letter from Mike
Abrams who was attempting to
allay the fears of Graham Lill in
relation to PC board track spacing
in a compact fluoro. He suggests
that we should purchase only products tested to Australian Standards
and the C-Tick (EMC compliance)
sticker is a good indication that the
product complies.
I cannot comment on the fluoros
he was referring to and their track
spacing but would like to make the
following comments:
I dismantled a failed dimmer
many years ago from an Australian
manufacturer/supplier and it was
an approved type. Its track spacing
did not seem to meet the standards
for track spacing for 240VAC as
required by a Telstra guideline.
I have recently returned a nonAustralian made 2HP electric motor
supplied as part of wood-working
machinery and its grommetting of
the 240VAC wires entering the case
would have not met the standards
of “the Irresponsible Cowboys
Corporation” let alone any local
standards.
I have a standard lamp of recent
years made in Asia and approved
for sale in Australia. It has figure-8
wiring which is cracking, exposing
copper at the entry to the metal
base and the grommet would not
withstand the attack of a lethargic
cockroach.
I can say absolutely that C-Tick
compliance is NO GUARANTEE
of anything, except perhaps that
funds will be transferred to testing
organisations.
I went through the C-Tick compliance testing process when operating a quite small business making
single and multi-zone fire warning
systems for the fire protection industry. We did get certification. As
a process, the testing was logical but
in our case I had to supply much of
the test gear (large PSUs, etc). From
an ongoing perspective, it was logical nonsense and a technical farce. I
could detail why but it would take
several pages.
I am advised that the C-Tick stickers can be purchased in newsagents
and stationers in Germany.
I have a manual (ie, non-electric)
steak knife made overseas and it has
a C-Tick sticker on its cardboard
box!
A 2-way radio gear supplier in
Melbourne told me that he had
test equipment from overseas that
generated lots of EMI radiation but
it had C-Tick stickers.
Sorry Mike. The real world submits reasonable things for test and
then builds lower cost rubbish for
sale – I have had many examples
of it.
Ranald Grant,
via email.
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
homework, checking the Microchip
website, buying a book about phase
locked loops, surfing the web, testing
ideas using Excel, etc.
I’ve also tried some hardware approaches using a 4046 but this was
disappointing. It is mostly a “digital”
phase locked loop and preserves
rather than removes errors near the
zero crossing. I also discovered that
when I use a long time-constant for
the loop filter, I needed to adjust the
centre frequency accurately.
The XOR phase detector worked
moderately well but finds the peak and
I need extra circuits, such as at least
one flipflop, to find the zero crossing.
siliconchip.com.au
The PFD phase detector is very sensitive to the noise associated with the
mangled zero crossing.
Naively, I assumed that it should be
easy to write a PLL program for a PIC
and that I’d find several programs on
the Microchip website. None! I now
think that a phase locked loop program
might be too difficult for the 16F PICs
and only just within the capabilities of
the larger 18F PICs. Even as I type this,
I also think, “that can’t be right”.
I’d be grateful for help from anyone
able to answer the question.
Keith Anderson,
PO Box 58,
Kingston, Tas. 7051.
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
May 2006 5
Deluxe Lead-Acid
BATTERY ZAP
& Condition
Checker
This photo shows the same setup as depicted in Fig.6. A battery charger
is needed to provide current for the zapping function.
Here’s an improved design for a lead-acid battery desulphator
or “zapper”, combined with a battery condition checker. It has
output jacks which let you monitor the zapping pulses with an
external multimeter as zapping progresses, while an inbuilt
isolating choke makes it easy to connect a charger to the battery
during zapping.
T
HE SIMPLE LEAD-ACID battery
zapper we described in the July
2005 issue of SILICON CHIP has been
very popular with readers but a few
shortcomings did become apparent
as people started putting it to work
desulphating their batteries.
For a start, when the zapper was
connected to a battery with a high
6 Silicon Chip
level of sulphation, the high voltage
zapping pulses could rise in amplitude above the 100V rating of the
switching MOSFET, causing it to suffer breakdown. A circuit modification
to limit the maximum pulse voltage
was published in the Notes & Errata
section of the September 2005 issue
(page 107).
We also showed how to connect a
switch in series with one of the leads
between the zapper and battery, to
avoid dangerous sparking at the battery terminals when the connection
was made or broken. A number of
readers also enquired if they could fit
an indicator to show when zapping
was taking place, as it wasn’t easy to
siliconchip.com.au
By JIM ROWE
PER
The circuit fits inside a standard UB2 plastic box and has output jacks so
that you can monitor the “zapping” progress using a multimeter.
be sure of this unless you connected
an oscilloscope across the battery
terminals.
Another complication arose regarding the power MOSFET’s over-voltage
protection, because the MOSFET
used in the July 2005 design became
unavailable and the only replacements
we could find were rated at just 60V.
So the over-voltage limiting had to be
changed again.
It also became clear that batteries
needing desulphation must be connected to an external charger at the
same time, because they couldn’t
provide the zapper with sufficient
current. Although we had shown how
this could be done, it did involve the
use of an external “floating” inductor
in series with one of the charger leads.
siliconchip.com.au
Now we have incorporated the extra
inductor inside the box.
Finally, the original design was only
suitable for 12V batteries but many
readers needed to desulphate 6V or
24V batteries as well.
Clearly, the best way of sorting out
these drawbacks was to develop an improved Mk.2 zapper. At the same time,
we decided to incorporate a battery
condition checker, so that users would
be able to check the condition of their
batteries quickly and easily – either to
see if zapping was necessary or after
a zapping session, to see if there had
been an improvement.
So that’s the story behind this new
unit. It’s largely based on the July 2005
design but with a higher zap output
and the ability to be used with 6V,
12V and 24V batteries. It also has the
bonus of a built-in battery condition
checker.
How it works
The zapper section of the new unit
is very similar to the earlier unit. As
we went into a fair amount of detail
explaining how this worked in the
July 2005 article, we won’t repeat it
in the same detail. It is illustrated in
the three diagrams of Fig.1.
The zapping section of the circuit
is shown in the upper part of Fig.2
(from the negative battery terminal
upwards). In this case, it only operates
when switch S1 is in the “Zap” position, connecting this part of the circuit
to the battery and/or charger.
Current from the battery and/or
May 2006 7
Fig.1(a): during the first phase
of the circuit’s operation,
current flows from the battery
(or charger) and charges a
100mF electrolytic capacitor via
inductor L2.
Fig.1(b): next, the switch is
closed for 50ms, and current
flows from the capacitor into L1.
As a result, the energy stored in
the capacitor is transferred to
the inductor’s magnetic field.
charger flows through 1mH inductor
L2 and charges the 470mF capacitor
connected between the inductor’s
lower end and earth (battery negative).
At the same time, current flows
through RF choke RFC1 and its 100W
5W series resistor, applying battery
voltage to IC1, a 555 timer. Zener diode ZD1 is there to limit the supply
voltage for IC1 to 16V when the unit
is used with a 24V battery (and an accompanying charger).
IC1 is configured as an astable oscillator running at 1kHz, with an output
consisting of narrow positive pulses
about 100ms wide and with spaces of
about 900ms between them (ie, 1:10
mark-space ratio).
The narrow pulses are used to turn
on switching MOSFET Q2, with diode
D2 and transistor Q1 used to ensure
that Q2 is switched on and off as rapidly as possible. So Q2 is turned on for
100ms, off for 900ms and so on.
During the 900ms “off” periods, the
470mF capacitor is able to charge up
to the battery voltage via inductor L2.
When Q2 turns on, it connects the lower end of 220mH inductor L1 to ground,
allowing some of the energy stored in
the capacitor to be transferred into the
magnetic field around L1. Then when
Q2 turns off 100ms later, the magnetic
field in L1 collapses again, delivering
the stored energy back into the circuit
in the form of a high voltage pulse
(positive at the drain of Q2). Most of
the energy in the high voltage pulses
is fed to the battery via fast switching
diode D3.
A number of small changes to the
original zapper circuit have substantially increased the pulse energy.
Over-voltage protection
Fig.1(c): finally, the switch
opens again, interrupting the
inductor current and causing
a high-voltage pulse across
the inductor with the polarity
shown. The green arrow shows
the discharge current path.
8 Silicon Chip
Diode D4 and zener diodes ZD2
and ZD3 form the over-voltage
protection circuit for Q2, limiting the
maximum pulse voltage at its drain to
about 60V.
At the same time, diode D4 also
functions as a half-wave rectifier and
feeds a low-pass filter comprising a
47kW resistor and 100nF capacitor.
This provides a DC voltage proportional to the maximum pulse amplitude
to the “Meter” terminals. This allows
monitoring of the pulse level with a
standard multimeter.
As zapping progresses, the pulses
will initially be quite high in amplitude. But if the zapping is working to
Fig.2 (right): IC1 and MOSFET Q2
provide the zapper function while the
lower section of the circuit involving
IC2-IC5 and MOSFETs Q3-Q6 provide
a battery condition checker.
successfully desulphate the battery, its
internal impedance should drop and
so the zapping pulses will be reduced
in amplitude. So if you are monitoring
the progress with a multimeter, the
voltage should gradually reduce. If it
doesn’t, you know that the battery is
effectively beyond redemption.
Visual indication
LED1 is provided to show when the
zapper is generating pulses and also to
give a rough idea of their amplitude.
Because the pulses are quite narrow,
diode D13 is used to charge the 22nF
capacitor to their full voltage (less
the battery voltage across the 470mF
capacitor) and LED1 is able to draw a
steady current from the capacitor via
the 6.8kW resistor. Incidentally, the
22nF capacitor, in conjunction with
diode D13, also functions as a snubber
circuit to provide further damping of
the high-voltage pulses produced at
the drain of Q2.
The circuitry at upper right in
Fig.2 is to allow safe connection of
a standard battery charger to the battery at any time (ie, during zapping,
condition checking or when neither
is being carried out). Inductor L3 acts
as a blocking choke for the zapping
pulses, preventing the charger from
possibly being damaged, while switch
S3 with its 10nF spark suppressor allows the charger to be safely connected
or disconnected, without producing
any sparks.
The 10W 5W resistor in series with
the negative charger lead is to limit
the current that can be drawn from
the charger, preventing damage when
heavy current pulses are drawn from
the battery during condition checking.
It also reduces the likelihood of overcharging the battery if it is connected
to the Zapper for a period of days.
Condition checking
The condition checking circuit is
broken into two distinct parts: the
centre section of Fig.2 incorporating
IC2, IC3 and transistors Q3-Q8 and
the lowest section involving IC4, IC5
and LEDs 2-9. Essentially, the centre
section is a pulsed current load which
draws a sequence of three very short
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 9
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 14105061, 101
x 185mm
1 UB2 size plastic box, (197 x
113 x 63mm)
1 3-pole 3/4-position rotary
switch (S2)
1 DPDT centre-off mini toggle
switch (S1)
1 SPDT mini toggle switch (S3)
1 SPST momentary contact
pushbutton switch (S4)
1 1mH RF choke (RFC1)
1 220mH air cored inductor (L1)
2 1mH air cored inductors (L2,
L3)
1 20mm knob
1 130mm length of 0.5mm tinned
copper wire (PC board links)
1 150mm length of 2.5mm heatshrink sleeving
2 dual red/black binding posts,
19mm spacing
1 pair of 4mm panel-mount banana jack sockets (red/black)
1 M205 LV panel-mounting
fuseholder
1 3A slow blow M205 fuse
cartridge (F1)
4 15mm long M3 tapped metal
spacers
4 6mm long M3 machine screws,
countersink head
4 6mm long M3 machine screws,
round head
3 200mm long x 2.5mm cable ties
1 1.5m length of light duty figure8 flex (for LED connections)
1 600mm length of 13 x 0.12mm
wire, red PVC insulation
1 200mm length of 13 x 0.12mm
wire, black PVC insulation
1 300mm length of 24 x 0.2mm
wire, green PVC insulation
1 100mm length of 41 x 0.3mm
wire, red PVC insulation
1 100mm length of 41 x 0.3mm
wire, black PVC insulation
1 200mm length 13 x 0.12mm
wire, blue PVC insulation
4 QC “eye” connector lugs,
5.3mm ID/9.5mm OD
Semiconductors
1 555 timer IC (IC1)
1 4093B quad Schmitt NAND
gate (IC2)
1 4017B decade counter (IC3)
1 4066B quad bilateral switch
(IC4)
10 Silicon Chip
1 LM3914 LED display driver (IC5)
2 BC327 PNP transistors (Q1,Q7)
5 STP60NF06 N-channel
MOSFETs (Q2-Q6)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q8)
5 5mm red LEDs (LED1, LED2,
LED7-9)
2 5mm green LEDs (LED5, LED6)
1 5mm yellow LED (LED4)
1 5mm orange LED (LED3)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 27V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
1 30V 1W zener diode (ZD3)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD4)
1 10V 1W zener diode (ZD5)
9 1N4148 diodes (D1, D2, D6D12)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D5)
1 BY229-200 fast recovery diode
(D3)
2 UF4003 fast power diodes
(D4,D13)
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470mF 63V low ESR RB
electrolytic
2 470mF 25V RB electrolytic
1 10mF 16V tantalum
3 100nF 100V MKT metallised
polyester
3 100nF 50V monolithic
2 22nF 100V MKT metallised
polyester
2 10nF 100V MKT metallised
polyester
1 4.7nF 100V MKT metallised
polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 4.7MW
1 6.8kW
1 270kW
3 4.7kW
3 100kW
1 2.2kW
1 82kW
1 1.2kW
1 47kW
2 1kW
1 27kW
1 470W
1 22kW
1 270W
2 15kW
4 220W
2 10kW
1 100W
2 100W 5W wirewound
1 10W 5W wirewound
3 0.22W 5W wirewound
Where To Buy A Kit
This project was sponsored by
Jaycar Electronics and they own
the design copyright. A kit of parts
is available from Jaycar for $A99.00
– Cat. KC-5427.
high-current pulses from the battery,
shortly after you press the CHECK
pushbutton S4.
The lowest section of the circuit is
basically a sample-and-hold voltmeter,
which samples the battery voltage only
during the last of the three current
pulses and compares it with the battery’s no-load voltage. This indicates
the battery’s condition by showing
how much its terminal voltage droops
under load. In effect, the heavy current
pulses across the battery enable us to
measure its output impedance.
If the battery voltage doesn’t droop
much at all, green LED6 (GOOD) will
light; if it droops by only a small
amount, green LED5 (OK) lights up;
if it droops more but not too much,
yellow LED4 (FAIR) lights up. And if
it droops even more than this, either
orange LED3 (POOR) or red LED2
(FAIL) will light, giving you an idea
of how urgently the battery should be
replaced. This assumes that you have
just charged the battery, of course.
If none of the LEDs light, your battery is dead or flat. If charging and
zapping does not fix it, it is beyond
redemption.
In more detail, the heart of the
pulsed current load section is IC3, a
4017B decade counter. This can count
clock pulses from gate IC2c, which is
configured as a relaxation oscillator
running at about 66Hz. Switch S2a
increases the feedback resistance
when the circuit is connected to a 6V
battery, to maintain about the same
clock frequency.
The oscillator only runs when the
level on pin 9 of IC2c is high and this is
controlled by the “run flipflop” made
up of gates IC2a and IC2b. When power
is first applied to the circuit (ie, when
S1 is switched to the CHECK position),
the flipflop immediately switches to
its “stopped” state, with pins 3 & 5
low and pins 2 & 4 high. So IC2a is
prevented from oscillating and at the
same time, IC3 is held in its reset state
by the logic high applied to its MR pin
(15). The only output of IC3 at logic
high level is O0, pin 3.
No further action takes place until
you press the CHECK pushbutton
(S4), whereupon one side of the 22nF
capacitor connected to pin 1 of IC2a
is pulled down to ground, forcing it
to charge via the 10kW resistor. Until
it charges, pin 1 of IC2a is pulled low,
causing pins 3 & 5 to swing high and
pins 2 & 4 to swing low. Thus, clock
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the scope waveforms at left were measured using a 12V battery with a series resistor of 2.7W to simulate a
sulphated battery. The lowest trace (yellow) is the pulse train fed to the gate of Q2 while the top trace (purple) is the
resultant high-voltage pulse developed at the drain of Q2. The blue trace shows the accompanying ripple voltage
across the 470mF low-ESR capacitor. At right is the sequence of three current pulses used by the condition checker
(measured across the paralleled 0.22W source resistors).
oscillator IC2c is enabled and at the
same time the reset is removed from
pin 15 of IC3.
The counter begins to count the
pulses from IC2c and its outputs then
switch high in sequence: first O1, then
O2, O3 and so on up to O9. Each counter output switches high for around
15ms (milliseconds), so the complete
sequence takes 9 x 15 = 135ms.
When output O9 finally drops low
again at the end of the ninth clock
period, the 100nF capacitor connected
between this output and pin 6 of IC2b
feeds a negative-going pulse back to
IC2b, which resets the flipflop. This
stops the clock and activity again
ceases until S4 is pressed again.
So IC2a, IC2b, IC2c & IC3 form a
digital sequencer which generates nine
15ms long pulses when pushbutton
S4 is pressed.
Diodes D9, D8 & D7 are connected
to the O1, O5 & O9 outputs of IC3.
These diodes form an OR gate to feed
the inputs of IC2d which are normally
pulled down to 0V via a 22kW resistor. But when the sequencer runs and
outputs O1, O5 & O9 switch high in
turn (with 45ms gaps between them),
the inputs of IC2d also switch high for
15ms each time.
As a result, IC2d’s output (pin 11)
switches low during these three 15ms
periods, providing pulses of base current to turn on transistor Q7 for the
same periods. And when Q7 conducts,
it turns on MOSFETs Q3-Q6, to draw
pulses of current from the battery.
siliconchip.com.au
Q3-Q6 are enhancement-mode MOS
FETs connected in parallel, with their
drains connected to battery positive
and sources connected to battery negative via a parallel combination of three
0.22W resistors, giving an effective
common source resistance of 0.073W.
The MOSFET gates are pulled down
to 0V via a 4.7kW resistor, so normally
they are switched off and not conducting. But when the sequencer turns on
Q7 for three 15ms pulses, this also
turns on the MOSFETs and they draw
pulses of current from the battery.
Pulse current limiting
The battery current pulses are
limited by transistor Q8 and the two
diodes connected in series with its
emitter, in conjunction with the three
0.22W resistors in the source circuit of
the MOSFETs. The base of Q8 is connected directly to the top of the source
resistors, so that when the MOSFETs
conduct, the resulting voltage across
the source resistors provides forward
bias for Q8.
Q8 doesn’t conduct to any significant extent until the voltage drop
across the MOSFET source resistors
rises above 1.95V, where it matches
the forward voltage drop of D11, D10
and Q8’s own base-emitter junction.
When that voltage level is reached,
Q8 begins to conduct, draining away
some of the MOSFET forward bias
reaching their gates via the 470W and
100W resistors. As a result, the MOSFET current is automatically limited
to a value which produces about 2V
across the source resistors; ie, around
2V/0.073W, or 28A.
So when you press pushbutton S4, a
sequence of three pulses of around 28A
is drawn from the battery, each around
15ms in duration and 45ms apart.
Checking the droop
As explained earlier, the circuitry
around IC4 and IC5 forms a sampleand-hold voltmeter. It compares the
battery voltage during the last of the
Warning!
This circuit generates high voltage
pulses which could easily damage
the electronics in a vehicle. Do not
connect it to a car battery installed
in a vehicle.
Disclaimer!
Not all batteries can be rejuvenated by zapping. They may be too
heavily sulphated or may have an
open-circuit cell connection. Nor
can the zapper restore a battery
which is worn out; ie, one in which
the active material on the plates has
been severely degraded.
Depending on the battery, it is also
possible that any rejuvenation effect
may only be temporary.
May 2006 11
Fig.4: follow this parts layout diagram to assemble the PC board and complete the external wiring. Make sure
that all polarised parts are installed with the correct orientation.
three 15ms pulses against the voltage when no current is being drawn,
because this “droop” is a fairly good
indicator of the battery’s condition.
The heart of the voltmeter is IC5, an
LM3914 LED driver IC. The LM3914 is
basically a set of 10 voltage comparators, with the reference inputs of the
comparators connected to taps on an
12 Silicon Chip
internal voltage divider. The top of
the divider connects to pin 6, while
the bottom connects to pin 4.
The second input of all 10 comparators is fed with the input voltage
from pin 5, via an internal buffer
amplifier.
The outputs of the comparators are
used to drive current sinks, one for
each LED driver output pin. Only five
LEDs are used, with each LED connected to an adjacent pair of outputs
so they provide a resolution of only
five voltage ratio levels.
Although the LM3914 has an internal voltage reference, it’s not used
here. The reference pin (pin 7) is simply connected to ground via a 1.2kW
siliconchip.com.au
Our prototype has the
LEDs mounted on sleeved
standoffs, for clarity. In
practice, the LEDs are
wired with flying leads
and fitted into bezels in
the lid.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
3
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
3
1
1
2
1
1
4
1
Value
4.7MW
270kW
100kW
82kW
47kW
27kW
22kW
15kW
10kW
6.8kW
4.7kW
2.2kW
1.2kW
1kW
470W
270W
220W
100W
resistor, to set the LED current levels
correctly.
So that we can use the circuit to
compare the on-load battery voltage
with its off-load value, we use the offload battery voltage as the voltmeter’s
reference. Actually, we use a proportion of the battery voltage, as selected
by switch S2b, because the LM3914’s
siliconchip.com.au
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet green brown
red violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
grey red orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
red violet brown brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
input voltage range must be limited
for linear operation. So S2b selects
a suitable proportion of the battery
voltage, depending on whether a 6V,
12V or 24V battery is being tested. This
voltage is fed through a 1kW resistor
and diode D12 to charge the 470mF capacitor and this provides our ‘no load”
voltage reference for the LM3914.
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black yellow brown
red violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
grey red black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red violet black black brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
22nF
10nF
4.7nF
μF Code
0.1µF
.022µF
.01µF
.0047µF
EIA Code
104
223
103
472
IEC Code
100n
22n
10n
4n7
May 2006 13
Fig.5: this cross-sectional diagram shows the mounting details for
the LEDs and the rotary switch.
The top of the LM3914’s internal
voltage divider is connected to the
top of the capacitor, while the bottom of the divider is connected to
ground/battery negative via a 15kW
resistor. This expands the range of the
LM3914’s comparator voltage divider
to the upper 40% of the total reference
voltage.
Voltage sampling
Sampling of the on-load voltage
is performed by IC4, a 4066B quad
bilateral switch with all four switches
connected in parallel to minimise
on-resistance. The control inputs of
the switches are connected to the
O9 output of IC3, so the switches are
normally “off” and are only turned
on during the third pulse of each load
pulse sequence. When this occurs,
the switches allow the 10mF capacitor
connected to pin 5 of IC5 to charge up
to the proportion of battery voltage
selected via S2b – the same voltage
proportion used to charge the 470mF
capacitor but in this case it samples
what happens to it when the battery
is attempting to provide 30A pulses
of current.
The LM3914 therefore compares the
selected proportion of the battery’s
no-load voltage (pin 6) with the same
proportion of its on-load voltage (pin
5). If the voltage droops very little,
LED6 will light; if it droops a little
14 Silicon Chip
more, LED5 will light and so on.
Note that if the on-load battery voltage drops below 60% of its no-load
value, none of the LEDs will light –
that’s why a “no glow” indicates that
the battery is either flat or completely
dead.
Note too that regardless of which
LED lights during the test to indicate
battery condition, after a few seconds
the glow will transfer down through
the lower LEDs and then finally they’ll
all go dark again. That’s because the
sampled on-load voltage held by the
10mF capacitor is gradually leaked
away by the parallel 4.7MW resistor,
to ready the circuit for another test.
The 10V 1W zener diode (ZD5)
connected to the wiper of switch S2b
is there to protect the inputs of IC4 &
IC5, in case the 6V battery position is
selected while a 24V battery is connected. Without ZD5, both IC4 & IC5
could be destroyed by this mistake.
The third pole of switch S2 (S2c) is
used to indicate which battery voltage
has been selected, via LED7-LED9.
Construction
To make the new Battery Zapper
& Checker reasonably easy to build,
almost all of the components used
are mounted directly on a PC board
coded 14105061 and measuring 101 x
185mm. This has rounded cutouts in
each corner so it will fit snugly inside
a standard UB2-size plastic utility
(Jiffy) box.
The only components which don’t
mount on the PC board are the LEDs,
switches S1, S3 & S4, the fuseholder
for fuse F1 and the various input terminals and banana sockets. The three
switches mount on the lid of the box,
while the fuseholder and terminals
mount on the sides of the box. All of
these off-board components connect to
the board via short lengths of insulated
wire – see Fig.4.
Begin the board assembly by fitting
the seven wire links. Don’t forget the
short link between diodes D7 and D9,
just to the right of rotary switch S2,
or the longer link just to the left of the
same switch.
Next, fit the smaller resistors and
the small RF choke (RFC1), followed
by the 5W wirewound resistors. Take
care to fit the three 0.22W resistors in
their correct positions just below the
indicated position for inductor L3.
Next, fit the capacitors, starting with
the smaller non-polarised multilayer
monolithic and MKT parts and then
progressing through to the polarised
tantalum and electrolytic types. There
are not many of these but take care to fit
them with the correct orientation.
Now you can fit the semiconductors,
starting with the various diodes and
then the bipolar transistors (Q1, Q7 &
Q8), the ICs (or sockets for them if you
wish) and the power MOSFETs. The
semiconductors are all polarised, so be
sure to install them correctly.
When fitting MOSFETs Q3-Q6, leave
about 5mm of their leads above the
board (ie, the wider 4mm long sections
plus a further 1mm). This is necessary
because they need to be bent over at
about 45° later, so that their top tabs
clear the contacts of switch S1 when
everything is assembled. Although not
shown in the photos, the two lower
MOSFETs must be bent downwards
towards D11, while the upper MOSFETs are bent upwards towards L3.
Mounting the LEDs
The LEDs are all connected to the
PC board using 150mm lengths of
light-duty figure-8 flex and the LEDs
themselves fitted into bezels on the
front panel. Each LED is fitted with
its connecting lead first. Do this
by separating the two lead wires at
one end for about 20mm and then
removing about 6mm of insulation
from each. Then slip a 15mm length
siliconchip.com.au
of 2.5mm heatshrink sleeving down
over each wire, before soldering the
two wires to the LED leads (which
have been previously cut short, to
about 12mm long).
When you solder the wires, make
sure you solder the wire with the
black stripe to the LED’s cathode
lead. After both joints are made,
slide the heatshrink sleeves up
and over the solder joints, so
they are fully covered, and heat
them with a hot-air gun or by
rubbing them with the barrel of
your soldering iron, so they shrink
into place.
Once the leads have been fitted,
the LEDs can all be attached to the
PC board. Be sure to fit them in the
correct positions and with the correct
polarity.
Special note: our photograph of
the prototype shows all LEDs except
LED1 mounted on sleeved standoffs
about 40mm high, just high enough to
let the LEDs protrude through the lid.
This has the advantage of showing an
uncluttered board in our photographs
and allowing more easy comparison
with the wiring diagram of Fig.4.
That done, it’s time to fit the largest
components to the board – ie, rotary
switch S2 and the three air-cored inductors. There’s no need to cut S2’s
control shaft before it’s fitted to the
board. Instead, it’s left at full length so
that it will later protrude far enough
through the box lid to accept the
control knob. However, you do need
to make sure that the switch is set for
only three positions.
This is done by first turning the
control shaft as far as it will go in
the anticlockwise direction and then
unscrewing the mounting nut and
removing this from the threaded ferrule, along with the star lockwasher.
That done, use a small screwdriver to
prise up the indexing pin washer from
its position under the star lockwasher
and then carefully replace it so that
its indexing pin slips down into the
rectangular hole between the numerals ‘3’ and ‘4’ which are moulded into
the plastic. Make sure the washer is
sitting down flat before replacing the
lockwasher and mounting nut.
If you now try turning the control
shaft by hand, it should have three
only possible positions.
You can now fit the switch in position, making sure that all its connection pins pass through the board holes
siliconchip.com.au
This is the view inside the completed prototype. Note that in the kit
version, the LEDs are connected to flying leads and clipped into bezels
mounted on the front panel.
and that the bottom of the switch sits
flush against the board. Note that in
this project, the switch orientation is
NOT with the locating spigot pin at 12
o’clock but at the 5 o’clock position.
This is shown clearly on the overlay
diagram (Fig.4).
When you are happy that the switch
is orientated correctly and is sitting
flat on the board, turn the board over
and solder all of the pins to the pads
underneath.
Air-cored inductors
The air-cored inductors are also
mounted directly on the PC board.
It’s important to dress each inductor’s
leads carefully so they’re each straight
and at close to 90° to the side cheeks of
the inductor bobbin, to prevent strain
as the inductor is lowered against the
board.
Make sure also that you orientate
each inductor so that its “start” lead
(nearer the centre of the bobbin) passes
through its matching “S” hole on the
board. The “finish” lead (further out)
goes through the hole marked “F”.
When each inductor is sitting flat
against the top of the board, you can
solder its leads to the pads underneath
and trim off any excess. That done,
use a 200mm-long cable tie to hold
the inductor in place, passing the tie
down through one of the edge holes
provided in the board and up through
the other.
All that remains now is to plug the
ICs into their sockets (taking care to
fit them with the correct orientation)
and then prepare and fit the various
short lengths of wire for the off-board
connections.
There are 14 of these connection
wires to be prepared: two each for the
charger and battery terminal connections; two for the meter jacks; two for
the charger on/off switch (S3); two for
the main function switch (S1); two for
pushbutton switch S4; one for the end
terminal of the fuseholder; and finally,
one for the connection between the
May 2006 15
fuseholder side lug and the centre lugs
of switch S1.
To make it easier to prepare all these
wires, their details are shown in Table
1. Note that the wires for the meter
terminals are of light-duty hookup
wire and this also applies to the wires
for S4, S1 and the fuseholder. On
the other hand, the wires for charger
switch S3 and especially the charger
and battery terminals should be made
from heavier wire, because they carry
higher currents.
Warning!
Hydrogen gas (which is explosive) is generated by lead-acid
batteries during charging. For this
reason, be sure to always charge
batteries in a well-ventilated area.
Never connect high-current loads
directly to a battery’s terminals.This
can lead to arcing at the battery
terminals and could even cause the
battery to explode! Note too that the
electrolyte inside lead-acid batteries is corrosive, so wearing safety
glasses is always a good idea.
16 Silicon Chip
Note also that the wires for the meter
jacks have matching large solder lugs
fitted to their far ends, while the wires
for the charger and battery terminals
are fitted with suitable “QC eye” connector lugs (see parts list) for easy attachment to the rear of the terminals
using the nuts provided.
Once all of these wires are prepared,
you can pass the “board end” of each
wire through its corresponding hole on
the board and solder it to the pad underneath. Your board assembly should
then be complete and ready to be fitted into the box, although you should
first give it a thorough inspection, to
make sure there are no dry solder
joints, joints that have been forgotten
altogether or accidental solder bridges
between pads or tracks.
Final assembly
Before lowering the board assembly
into the box, secure the four 15mmlong tapped spacers inside the bottom
of the box using countersink-head M3
x 6mm machine screws. That done,
lower the board onto the spacers and
secure it in place using four round-
head M3 x 6mm machine screws.
Next, fit the meter connection jack
sockets, the charger and battery connection terminals and the fuseholder
to the sides of the box. With both the
meter jacks and the charger/battery
terminals, you have to disassemble
them first before you can fit them to
the box and then reassemble them with
a single nut inside. When you have
tightened these nuts, slip the solder
lugs or QC connectors over the ends of
the threaded sleeves or shafts and then
add a second nut to each connector to
fasten them in place.
The fuseholder is pushed through
its mounting hole and the washer
and nut refitted. Don’t use excessive
force to tighten the nut though, as this
may strip the plastic thread. Once the
fuseholder is in place, you can solder
the end of the wire from the PC board
to its end connection lug.
Next, fit toggle switches S1 & S3 to
the box lid. S3 is a single-pole switch
which mounts in the central hole of
the lid, while S1 is a double-pole
centre-off switch which mounts in the
righthand hole. After these, fit pushbutton switch S4 in the centre hole at
the bottom of the lid.
You should now be ready to make
the last off-board connections, so turn
over the box lid and bring it close
alongside the box itself. First of all, use
the remaining loose length of prepared
wire (80mm of 13 x 0.12mm, red PVC
insulation) to connect the side lug of
the fuseholder to the two centre terminal lugs of switch S1 (note: the two
sections of S1 are connected in parallel, to give greater current handling
capacity). That done, solder the free
ends of the remaining red wires from
the board (“S1a” and “S1b”) to the lugs
at each end of switch S1 – see (Fig.2).
The “S1a” wire goes to the two lower
lugs of S1, while the “S1b” wire goes
to the two upper lugs.
Next, solder the leads to pushbutton
switch S4. The switch wiring can then
be completed by soldering the free
ends of the two green wires coming
from centre left of the PC board to the
centre and uppermost lugs of S3 (the
charger on/off switch).
Panel-mounting the LEDs
You can now fit the plastic bezels for
the nine LEDs into their holes in the
lid. When each bezel is in place, push
its LED up from below until it clicks
into place. Just make sure you fit each
siliconchip.com.au
LED into its correct position or you’ll
get some strange results later!
That done, you can lower the lid
down onto the box, with the rotary
switch spindle passing through its
clearance hole. Fasten it with the selftapping screws provided, fit the small
plastic bungs over each screw recess
and fit the control knob on the rotary
switch spindle.
Using it
Now for the smoke test. First, make
sure that the Zapper’s switches are
set as follows: S1 in its centre-Off
position, S2 for the correct nominal
battery voltage and S3 in its upperOff position. That done, connect it as
shown in Fig.6. The Zapper’s battery
terminals are connected directly to the
battery using heavy-gauge cables. Just
make sure you connect the positive
terminal to battery positive and the
negative terminal to battery negative,
or very nasty things can happen.
If you are going to zap the battery,
you’ll also have to connect your
charger to the Zapper’s charger terminals: again, positive to positive and
negative to negative. This is because
a sulphated battery cannot deliver the
200mA or so of current required by
the Zapper.
Once the charger is connected,
switch S3 on the Zapper to “On” (assuming you’ve already connected the
Zapper to the battery). Note that if you
are using a multimeter to monitor the
zapping pulses, it should be set for a
DC voltage range of 20V or 50V.
To begin zapping the battery, switch
S1 to its “Zap” position. The Zapping LED should immediately light,
showing that the high-voltage zapping
pulses are being applied to the battery.
If you have a multimeter connected,
it should be giving a reading of about
30V DC or thereabouts; this is not the
actual peak-to-peak pulse voltage but
an average value proportional to it.
As zapping progresses, this voltage
reading should slowly drop, as the
lead sulphate crystals in the battery
are gradually dissolved. So let’s say
you’ve been zapping the battery for a
day or two and also charging it at the
same time. Now you want to check
the battery’s condition. This is done
as follows:
First, turn the Zapper’s Charger
switch S3 to the Off position, so you’ll
be checking the battery by itself and
not the charger as well. Then, after
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: this diagram shows how the Zapper
is connected to a battery and charger. The
multimeter monitors the zapping pulses.
making sure S2 is set for the battery’s
nominal voltage (6V/12V/24V), move
function switch S1 down to its lower
Check position. One of the LEDs above
the knob for S2 should light, confirming the battery voltage setting. The
Good Condition LED (LED6) will
also light briefly, then the OK LED,
the Fair LED and so on, down to the
Fail LED. This “ripple down” effect
is caused by the time taken for the
LM3914 reference voltage to stabilise
after switch-on.
Once the Condition LEDs have all
gone dark again, simply press the
Check pushbutton (S4) briefly. Now
one of the Condition LEDs should
light again, to show the battery’s actual
condition – hopefully it will be the
“Good” or “OK” LED, if the battery
has responded to the zapping.
After a few seconds, the lit LED will
fade out and the LED next down from
it will light instead. Then the next LED
to its left will light and so on, until all
Machine screws can be fitted to the
Zapper’s charger terminals to provide
handy contact points for the battery
charger’s alligator clip leads.
five LEDs are dark again.
When they are all dark it’s a good
idea to press S4 again for a second
check, because a single check may
give a reading that’s lower than the
battery’s actual condition. So if you do
press S4 again, you’ll very likely get
a higher reading than the first time if
the battery really is in “Good” or “OK”
condition.
If you only get a reading of “Fair”,
“Poor” or “Fail”, even on the second
check, your battery isn’t in good shape
and needs more zapping. And if further zapping doesn’t give better readings, your battery is essentially dead
and ready for replacement.
By the way, you can check the battery
condition any time you wish. Because
each check only draws three very short
pulses of current from the battery, it
draws a negligible amount of charge –
about 1.35 coulombs or 0.000375Ah.
Your charger can probably replace this
in a couple of seconds.
You’ll also notice that when you
exit the battery checking function by
switching S1 back to its centre-off position, the Condition LEDs again light
briefly, this time from the lowest to the
highest. This occurs as the LM3914’s
reference voltage decays and is nothing to worry about.
By the way, note that regardless of
the battery charger you use, the charge
current is limited by the circuit to less
than 1A. We did this because we did
not want the risk of severely overcharging a battery during a period of
zapping over several days. So after
zapping successfully, the battery may
SC
still need further charging.
May 2006 17
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
The Electronic Control Unit
for a four cylinder
common rail BMW
diesel. [BMW]
Diesel Engine
Management
L
ast month we looked at the
mechanical make-up of the
common rail diesel fuel injection systems that have revolutionised
diesel-powered cars.
The systems used extremely high
fuel pressure, electronically controlled
injectors and complex exhaust aftertreatment to provide very high specific
torque outputs with low fuel consumption and low emissions.
But how does the electronic control
system work? In this article we look at
the electronics of the system.
Requirements
The engine management system in
a diesel common rail engine needs to
provide:
• Very high fuel injection pressures
(up to 2000 Bar)
• Variation in injected fuel quantity,
24 Silicon Chip
intake manifold pressure and start
of injection to suit engine operating
conditions
• Pre-injection and post-injection
• Temperature-dependent rich air/fuel
ratio for starting
• Idle speed control independent of
engine load
• Exhaust gas recirculation
• Long term precision
As with current petrol engine management systems, the driver no longer
has direct control over the injected
fuel quantity.
Instead, the movement of the accelerator pedal is treated as a torque
request and the actual amount of fuel
Part 2
by Julian Edgar
injected in response is dependent on
the engine operating status, engine temperature, the likely affect on exhaust
emissions, and the intervention by
other car systems (eg traction control).
Figure 1 shows an overview of the
inputs, outputs and internal processes
in the Bosch common rail management
system.
Management Functions
• Starting
The injected fuel quantity and start
of injection timing required for starting
are primarily determined by engine
coolant temperature and cranking
speed.
Special strategies are employed for
very cold weather starting, especially
at high altitudes. In these conditions,
the turbocharger operation may be
suspended as its torque demand – alsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: an overview of a common rail diesel engine management system. The input signals to the ECU are on the left and
include accelerator pedal position, intake mass airflow, fuel rail pressure and engine speed. Not shown here but also
often included is a wideband exhaust gas oxygen sensor. The outputs (right) include the control of the fuel injectors,
exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and fuel rail pressure. Inside the ECU (middle) control strategies are implemented for
idle speed, smooth running control, quantity of fuel injected, starting point of injection, and many others. [Bosch]
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 25
• Idle Speed Control
The set idle speed depends on engine
coolant temperature, battery voltage
and operation of the air conditioner.
Idle speed is a closed loop function
where the ECU monitors actual engine speed and continues to adjust
fuel quantity until the desired speed
is achieved.
Fig.2: along with many other variables, three dimensional ECU maps are
used for both injection start timing and smoke limitation. [Bosch]
though small – may be sufficiently great
as to prevent the car from moving off.
• Driving
In normal driving, the injected fuel
quantity is determined primarily by
the accelerator pedal sensor position,
engine speed, fuel and intake air temperatures.
However, many other maps of data
also have an effect on the fuel injection
quantity actually used. These include
strategies that limit emissions, smoke
production, mechanical overloading
and thermal overloading (including
measured or modelled temperatures
of the exhaust gas, coolant, oil, turbocharger and injectors).
Start of injection control is mapped
as a function of engine speed, injected
fuel quantity, coolant temperature and
ambient pressure. Figure 2 shows example data maps for start of injection
and smoke control.
• Rev Limiter
Unlike a petrol engine management system which usually cuts fuel
abruptly when the rev limit is reached,
a diesel engine management system
progressively reduces the quantity
of fuel injected as the engine speed
exceeds the rpm at which peak power
is developed. By the time maximum
permitted engine speed has been
reached, the quantity of fuel injected
has dropped to zero.
• Surge Damping
Sudden changes in engine torque
output can result in oscillations in the
vehicle’s driveline. This is perceived
by the vehicle occupants as unpleasant surges in acceleration.
Active Surge Damping reduces the
The parts that make up a BMW four cylinder diesel engine. The fuel injection system components are at bottom right –
visible are the injectors and common rail, the high pressure pump and the ECU. [BMW]
26 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
tity for that cylinder is increased. If
the engine speed is above the mean,
the fuel injection quantity for that
cylinder is decreased. Figure 4 shows
this process.
Fig.3: Surge Damping is used to
prevent unwanted oscillations
in acceleration. The top diagram
shows the change in accelerations
without surge damping (a) and
with it (b). This alteration in car
behaviour can be achieved in two
ways. The lower diagram shows (1)
the effect of electronic filtering of
the accelerator pedal travel sensor
output signal, and (2) the active
correction of surge by increasing
the injected fuel quantity when the
engine speed drops and decreasing
it when the speed increases. [Bosch]
Fig.4: Smooth Running Control
addresses the fact that the torque
output of each cylinder is not
identical. To counteract this, the
system compares the engine speed
immediately after a cylinder’s
injection with the average engine
speed (in this case 800 rpm). If
the speed has dropped, the fuel
injection quantity for that cylinder
is increased. If the engine speed is
above the mean, the fuel injection
quantity for that cylinder is
decreased. [Bosch]
• Closed Loop Oxygen Sensor
Control
As with petrol management systems, diesel management system use
oxygen sensor closed loop control.
However, in diesel systems a broadband oxygen sensor is used that is
capable of measuring air/fuel ratios as
lean as 60:1. This Universal Lambda
Sensor (abbreviation in German: LSU)
comprises a combination of a Nernst
concentration cell and an oxygen
pump cell.
Because the LSU signal output is a
function of exhaust gas oxygen concentration and exhaust gas pressure,
the sensor output is compensated for
variations in exhaust gas pressure.
The LSU sensor output also changes
over time and to compensate for this,
when the engine is in over-run conditions, comparison is made between
the measured oxygen concentration
of the exhaust gas and the expected
output of the sensor if it were sensing
fresh air. Any difference is applied as
a learned correction value.
Closed loop oxygen control is used
for short- and long-term adaptation
learning of the injected fuel quantity.
likelihood of these oscillations occurring. Two approaches can be taken.
In the first, any sudden movements
of the accelerator pedal are filtered
out, while in the second, the ECU
detects that surging is occurring and
actively counteracts it by increasing
the injected fuel quantity when the
engine speed drops and decreasing
it when the speed increases. Figure 3
shows this process.
• Smooth Running Control
Because of mechanical differences
from cylinder to cylinder, the development of torque by each cylinder
is not identical. This difference can
result in rough running and increased
emissions.
To counteract this, Smooth Running Control uses the fluctuation in
engine speed to detect output torque
variations. Specifically, the system
compares the engine speed immediately after a cylinder’s injection with
the average engine speed. If the speed
has dropped, the fuel injection quansiliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: this diagram shows the relationship between solenoid valve (ie injector)
current, solenoid valve needle lift and injected fuel quantity. At (a) the injector
is opened with a rapidly rising (but controlled) rush of current, at (c) the
current is decreased but is still sufficient to hold the injector open, at (e) the
current is switched off and the injector closes. The sawtooth pattern of low
current flow that can be seen at (f) is explained in Figure 6. [Bosch]
May 2006 27
This is especially important in limiting smoke output, where the measured
exhaust gas oxygen is compared with
a target value on a smoke limitation
map. Oxygen sensor feedback is also
used to determine whether the target
exhaust gas recirculation is being
achieved.
• Fuel Pressure and Flow Control
The pressure in the common rail
is regulated by closed loop control.
A pressure sensor on the rail monitors real time fuel pressure and the
ECU maintains it as the desired level
by pulse width modulating the fuel
pressure control valve. At high engine
speeds but low fuel demand, the ECU
deactivates one of the pistons in the
high pressure pump. This reduces
fuel heating in addition to decreasing the mechanical power drawn by
the pump.
Other Management System
Outputs
In addition to the control of the fuel
injectors, the diesel engine management system can control
• Glow plugs for sub-zero starting
conditions
• Glow plugs that heat the coolant,
providing adequate cabin heating
in cold climates
Fig.6: this diagram shows how the high voltage capacitor used to rapidly pull
open the injector is also in turn charged by the injector’s solenoid coil. (1)
battery, (2) current control, (3) injector solenoid windings, (4) current boost
switch, (5) capacitor, (6) diodes, (7) cylinder select switch. In phase (a), the
injector is opened rapidly by the supply of high current from the 100V booster
capacitor. In phase (b), the current supply for the injector switches from the
capacitor to the battery. A pulse width modulated holding current is then used
to maintain the injector in its open state (phase d) and during the transition to
this phase (c), the inductive spike generated by the reduction in current through
the injector is routed to the booster capacitor, so starting its recharging process.
When the injector is switched off (phase e), the inductive spike is again routed
to the booster capacitor. Between injector opening events, a sawtooth waveform
is applied to the closed injector (phase f1 and f2). This current is insufficient
to open the injector but the generated inductive spikes are used to further
recharge the booster capacitor until it again reaches 100V. [Bosch]
28 Silicon Chip
A cutaway view of a BMW common
rail diesel 6-cylinder in-line engine.
The electronically controlled fuel
injectors can be seen at the top of
each cylinder while one of the glow
plugs (rarely used except in very cold
ambient conditions) can be seen angled
into the combustion chamber. [BMW]
siliconchip.com.au
So what are these
co mm on ra il die sels actually like on
the road? The Audi
All roa d us es a 2.5
litr e tur bo ch arg ed ,
inj ec ted an d int ercooled diesel engine.
Its maximum torque
is 370Nm from 15002500 rpm and peak
power is 132kW at
4000 rpm. The car has
a mass of 1825kg and
uses a 5-speed automatic transmission.
Off the line there’s
a no tic ea ble he sitation as the turbo
bu ild s bo os t, the n
– wh oo oo sh – the
torque arrives and the
engine rockets around
to the 4500
rpm redline, pulling ha
rd all the way. The auto
slides to the
next ratio – which puts
engine revs back in the
middle of that
torque plateau – and sh
e’s off again.
Audi claim 0-100 km/h
in 10.2 seconds, but the
times are far faster tha
rolling
n this standing start tim
e would sug-
gest. You really only
notice the absence of
top-end power when
climbing long hills at
high speed.
In a wide mix of
driving biased more
towards freeway than
climbing mountains,
we avera ge d 10 .1
litres/100km.
An d wh at ab ou t
that horrible diesel
rat tle ? Th ere ’s no
ge ttin g aw ay fro m
it – the TDi Allroad
is noisier than the
equivalent petrol engine version.
Despite extensive
so
un
dproofing – including a rubber bonnet
seal right around the
engine bay
– a distinctly different en
gine note can be heard
inside the
cabin. It’s more of a wh
ine that a rattle – thoug
h passers-by
hear a normal diesel. Bu
t at cruise the car is co
mmendably
quiet – the unusual en
gine note can really on
ly be heard
when accelerating.
The Audi Allroad
• Switchable intake manifolds, where
at low loads air is forced through
turbulence ducts to provide better
in-cylinder swirl
• Turbocharger boost pressure control
• Switching of radiator fans
Injector Operation
The triggering of the injector can be
divided into five phases:
• In the first phase, the injector is
opened rapidly by the supply of
high current from a 100V booster
capacitor. Peak current is limited to
20A and the rate of current increase
is controlled to allow consistent
injector opening times.
• The second phase is termed ‘pickup current’. In this phase, the current supply for the injector switches
from the capacitor to the battery. In
this phase, peak current continues
to be limited to 20A.
• A 12A pulse width modulated holding current is then used to maintain
the injector in its open state. The
inductive spike generated by the
reduction in current through the
injector in the change from ‘pickup’ to ‘holding’ phases is routed to
the booster capacitor, so starting its
recharge process.
• When the injector is switched off,
the inductive spike is again
siliconchip.com.au
routed to the booster capacitor.
• Between actual injector events, a
sawtooth waveform is applied to
the closed injector. The current
used is insufficient to open the injector and the generated inductive
spikes are used to further recharge
the booster capacitors until they
reach 100V.
Fig.5 shows the relationship between injector current, needle lift and
fuel flow. Fig.6 shows the five phases
of injector operation.
Conclusion
European car manufacturers and
consumers have thrown their weight
heavily behind passenger cars equipped with diesel engines.
The major improvement in specific
torque outputs and the reduction in
fuel consumption and emissions have
been achieved with sophisticated electronic control of very high pressure,
individually controlled injectors. SC
The direct injection system
of a Jaguar 2.7 litre diesel
V6. The mechanical high
pressure fuel pump can
be seen, as can the two
banks of injectors fed
by their individual
fuel rails.
[Jaguar]
May 2006 29
ELAB-080
Five virtual instruments in one!
This portable unit combines five measurement
and stimulus tools to form a highly integrated
electronics lab instrument. It connects to your
PC via the USB port and features easy-to-use
Windows software.
W
ITH THE RAPID advances in
personal computer performance,
their marriage to digital instrumentation seems a given. Add a PC with
some clever software to a data acquisition “front end”, and you get a high
performance oscilloscope or other
instrument, which could equal the
specs of the more traditional standalone units at a fraction of the cost.
While there are several hurdles to be
overcome before PC-based scopes hit
gigasample territory for less than a few
hundred dollars, an ever-increasing
number of companies are nonetheless
producing highly functional, low-cost
units.
A good example is to be found in the
new ELAB-080 from US-based company Dynon Instruments. This unit
incorporates five virtual instruments
in one: a 2-channel digital storage oscilloscope, 16-channel logic analyser,
analog/digital arbitrary waveform generator, two programmable power supplies and two programmable clocks.
ELAB-080 At A Glance
•
•
Digital storage oscilloscope: 80MS/s, 2-channel, 32k samples per channel.
Logic analyser: 16-channel with DSO-synchronous sampling & triggering, 3.3V logic
(5V tolerant).
• Arbitrary waveform generator: 100MS/s, 1 analog & five digital outputs, 64k samples.
• Programmable power supplies: two outputs, ±10V, 100mV increments, ±60mA current.
• Programmable clocks: 2 outputs, 1kHz-150MHz, 3.3V logic.
The DSO’s vertical “sensitivity” is 10mV/div to 50mV/div using x1 probes. Horizontal scaling
is adjustable from 2ns/div to 5s/div. Maximum measurable voltage is 4Vp-p with x1 probes
and 50Vp-p with x10 probes, and triggering can be rising or falling with programmable
level select.
30 Silicon Chip
Fig.1: all instruments are controlled
from this main window. You certainly
can’t get lost using this simple tabbed
menu layout!
It’s unusual to find this many instruments in one package, which explains
why it’s referred to as a “PC-hosted
electronics lab”! Also unusual at this
price is the oscilloscope’s maximum
sampling rate of 80MS/s (80 million
samples/sec), which is shared with
the logic analyser (they operate synchronously). Conversely, the arbitrary
waveform generator (AWG) has an
independent clock and can operate at
up to 100MS/s.
The unit is supplied in a folded steel
case measuring 184 x 125 x 42mm and
weighing only 635g. Power is provided
by a hefty (by comparison) external
AC adapter, which generates ±16V
and 5V outputs.
Three BNC connectors are provided
on the front panel; two for the oscilloscope inputs and one for the AWG’s
analog output. Two conventional
60MHz probe kits are included in the
package.
All remaining I/O, including the
logic analyser inputs, digital outputs,
clocks and power supplies are made
available via rows of 0.63mm square
header pins, spaced 2.54mm apart.
These are recessed below the surface
of the front panel for protection. The
package includes a plug-in wiring
harness terminated with individual
female push-on receptacles that will
mate with Pomona 5360 SMD clips
(not included) or similar.
Software
All five instruments are driven by
one software application, which runs
on Windows 98SE, Me, 2000 or XP. A
main control window (see Fig.1) allows you to configure each instrument.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: basic settings like horizontal/vertical zoom & trigger
level can be changed in the oscilloscope window.
Fig.4: roll your own waveforms directly in the AWG
window by clicking and dragging the trace. Up to 65,536
points can be defined at 0.15Hz playback, but only 10
points at 10MHz.
For example, the probe gain, coupling
type, X-axis zoom and Y-axis position
are all set on the “DSO” tab. As well,
options are available to show or hide
each instrument’s display window.
Several instrument functions can
be controlled from directly within the
individual display windows. In the
case of the oscilloscope, the horizontal and vertical axis displays, timing
cursors and trigger voltage level can
all be changed by right-clicking in the
window (Fig.2).
Similar functionality is available in
the logic analyser’s window (Fig.3).
Traces for individual channels can
be shown or hidden, as can the two
timing cursors. Like the ‘scope, the
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the colour for each logic analyser trace can be
altered to taste and you can zoom right in with two mouse
clicks if needed. Channels can also be grouped into buses,
making interpretation easier.
Fig.5: the most recent version of the software includes a
spectrum analyser display.
horizontal zoom level can be set from
2ns/div to 5s/div.
Also of note is the ability to create or
edit a waveform directly in the AWG’s
display window (Fig.4). Basic waveforms (sine, square, etc.) can be used
as a starting point, or you can import
a waveform captured from the DSO.
Naturally, all instrument settings
can be saved to a file for later retrieval;
so multiple setups are easily accommodated. Oscilloscope/logic analyser
and AWG data can also be saved and
loaded from disk, making later analysis possible.
Summary
The ELAB-080 combines a number
of general-purpose instruments into
one portable, low-cost package. The
product will be of interest to small
companies and individuals who cannot afford the high prices of standalone instruments.
For all of the technical details,
point your browser to www.dynoninstruments.com. The ELAB software
includes a “demo” mode with sample
data, so you can download and try it
yourself to get a feel for the product.
The ELAB-080 is available from
Australian distributor Digital Graphics, also on the web at www.digitalgraphics.com.au or phone (02) 4567
8999. Price at time of publication was
SC
$740 plus GST.
May 2006 31
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Improved Automatic
Exhaust Fan
The “Automatic Bathroom Exhaust Fan” in the May 2005 edition
is easily modified to provide adjustable fan run time. Features of the
original design include automatic
detection of hot water usage via
a pipe-mounted NTC thermistor,
along with single pushbutton on/off
control. Fan run time was fixed but
using the details given here, you can
add a potentiometer to give a useful
adjustment range of 4-10 minutes.
Several modifications to the orig
inal circuit are also required. We’ve
reproduced the circuit from May
2004 for convenience and highlighted the alterations in red. In summary,
the changes are as follows:
• Replace the PICAXE-08 with the
PICAXE-08M version.
• Move the piezo transducer to
output0 (pin 7).
• Add a 10kW potentiometer (VR1)
and 270kW resistor.
The updated program allows for
the piezo relocation and includes
commands for reading the potenti-
ometer’s voltage (wiper position),
which is then used to calculate the
fan run time. With the additional
program memory provided by the
PICAXE-08M, it would also be possible to add beeps at the quarter and
three-quarter timing points and/or
appropriate musical passages.
As mentioned in the previous
article, the unit should be powered
from batteries or a 12V DC plugpack,
while an electrician should handle
all of the 240VAC wiring.
W.A. Fitzsimons,
Mount Eliza, Vic. ($40)
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we pay good
money for each of the “Circuit
Notebook” items published in
SILICON CHIP. But now there are
four more reasons to send in
your circuit idea. Each month,
the best contribution published will entitle the author to choose the prize:
an LCR40 LCR meter, a
DCA55 Semiconductor Component Analyser, an ESR60 Equivalent
Series Resistance Analyser or an
SCR100 Thyristor & Triac Analyser,
32 Silicon Chip
with the compliments of Peak Electronic
Design Ltd www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit
in. Send it to SILICON CHIP and you
could be a winner.
You can either email your idea to
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it
to PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
siliconchip.com.au
Listing 1: Bathroom Exhaust Fan Controller
' Improved Bathroom Exhaust Fan Controller - 13.9.2005
' PICAXE-08M
mainloop:
readadc 1,b0
if b0<96 then timer1
if pin3=1 then timer1
goto mainloop
timer1:
b1=0
readadc 4,b5
w3=224-90
w4=b5*w3
w4=w4+1
b5=w4/256
b5=90+b5
high 2
pause 2000
timer2:
for b4=1 to 8
if pin3=1 then fanoff1
for b3=1 to 243
if pin3=1 then fanoff1
for b2=1 to b5
if pin3=1 then fanoff1
next b2
next b3
if b4=4 then beep1
if b4=8 then beep2
beep:
next b4
goto fanoff
'read voltage divider
'hot water temperature turns the fan on
'momentary switch takes P3 high
'reset delay flag
'reads timer setting
'calculating b2 range =90+(b5*(224-90))/256
'ensures that zero is not used in next calc
'value for b2’s for..next loop
'turn fan on
'cloaking for P3
'start timer
'time range of 4 to 10 minutes
'1/2 way reminder
'for timer completion
' One beep on P0 or turn fan off after delay
beep1:
if b1=1 then fanoff
pulsout 0,65535
goto beep
beep2:
pulsout 0,65535
pause 1000
pulsout 0,65535
goto beep
fanoff1:
if b1=1 then timer1
readadc 1,b0
if b0>96 then fanoff
if b0=96 then fanoff
b1=1
low 2
pause 2000
goto timer2
fanoff:
b1=0
low 2
pause 2000
goto mainloop
siliconchip.com.au
'after delay period turn fan off
'1 beep on P0
'2 beeps on P0
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'if delay flag is set then turn fan on
'no delay required
'no delay required
'set delay flag
'stop fan
'cloaking for P3
'reset delay flag
'stop fan
'cloaking for P3
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
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May 2006 33
Circuit Notebook – Continued
ton
Temple
Bryce month’s
is this r of a
winne s Test
tla
e
P ak A ument
r
t
s
In
A Rotary Encoder
For Your PIC project
Here’s a useful code fragment that
demonstrates how to add a rotary encoder to your next PIC-based project.
Rotary encoders (“jog wheels”) can
greatly simplify the user interface
of any project that requires multiple
buttons on the front panel.
For instance, a jog wheel and just
one button can replace the hours,
minutes, up and down buttons on a
clock. It could also be used to select
menu items from a list, or as the
input to a digital volume control.
Encoders are also available with
34 Silicon Chip
momentary switches built-in, making the interface even simpler!
The encoder should be of a type
that has one cycle per indent. For
example, units with 24 indents and
24 cycles are suitable but 6 cycles
and 24 indents are not.
The selected PIC micro should
include the port B “interrupt on
change” feature, which sets INTCON
bit 0 when port B inputs RB7-RB4
change. In this example, the “A”
terminal of the encoder is connected
to RB5 and the “B” terminal to RB4.
The encoder is wired to pull the micro inputs low, so when it is at a detent both inputs are high. Although
not listed here, port B must be set
up accordingly in the initialisation
section of your program.
The interrupt flag is polled for encoder transitions on the port pins, so
all interrupts must be disabled (clear
INTCON bit 7) before executing this
code. Transitions on RB6 & RB7 will
also set INTCON bit 0, so if these bits
are not used they should be set to
outputs to exclude them from the
interrupt on change function.
The following registers are used:
jogtmr – contact bounce timer
result – the number to be adjusted
is stored here
temp – a temporary register (can be
shared)
flags – bit 1 = adjust mode
bit 2 = jog timer
bit 3 = first pass
bit 4 = jog done
As can be seen in the jog section
of the program, the encoder wheel
only becomes active after the system
had been placed in “adjust” mode,
which is easily accomplish by setting bit 1 of the flags register. On the
author’s system, this flag is set when
a button is pressed.
All exits from this short program
go to a label called adjust. Any label
could have been used here, because
adjust is really just the start of the
next routine to be executed in line.
siliconchip.com.au
Listing 2: PIC-Based Rotary Encoder
jog:
btfsc
goto
bcf
goto
jogok:
btfss
goto
btfsc
goto
btfsc
goto
btfsc
goto
bsf
bsf
goto
dtmr:
decfsz
goto
flags1,1
jogok
intcon,0
main
intcon,0
adjust
flags1,2
dtmr
portb,5
ahigh
flags1,3
adjust
flags1,3
flags1,2
adjust
jogtmr,f
adjust
;adjust flag set?
;do jog if set
;clear jog moved flag
;no jog if not in adjust mode
;jog changed?
;exit if not
;check timer flag
;check ‘A’ terminal
;if high, skip
;if low, check 1st pass flag
;if set, exit
;otherwise, set 1st pass flag..
;..& timer flag..
;..& exit
;dec jog timer
;if not=0, exit
bcf
movlw
movwf
goto
flags1,2
0x03
jogtmr
adjust
;if=0,clear flag
;reload timer
ahigh:
btfss
goto
movf
movwf
bcf
bsf
bcf
btfsc
goto
incf
goto
flags1,3
adjust
portb,w
temp1
intcon,0
flags1,4
flags1,3
temp1,4
bset
result,f
adjust
;check 1st pass flag
;if clear,exit
;if 2nd high, port b..
;.. to temp 1
;clear flag
;set jog done flag
;clear 1st pass flag
;check ‘B’ terminal
bset:
decf
goto
result,f
adjust
;if set dec result
;do adjust
We’d expect that it would be the
code that you’ve written to process
the results, if any.
In use, the number to be modified
is loaded into the result register
and each pass through the program
polls the INTCON register bit 0.
Once this bit is set, indicating that
the jog wheel has been turned, the
program polls the “A” terminal of
the encoder on RB5 until it goes low
and then returns high again. After
a short delay to allow for contact
bounce, port B is copied into the
temp register. This prevents contact
noise affecting the result.
The direction of the jog wheel is
then determined by the state of the
“B” terminal (now in bit 4 of the
temp register) and the result register
Tank To
Cistern Pump
The probe connected to the gate
of Q2 monitors the rainwater level
in the tank. When the probe is immersed, Q2 is switched off and the
remainer of the circuit is unaffected.
Conversely, when the probe is exposed, Q2 is switched on via the
1MW pull-up resistor. This holds the
555’s threshold input low and thus
prevents the pump from starting.
A second MOSFET (Q3) and LED
function as a low water level indicator. Zener diode ZD1, the 1kW
resistor and 1mF capacitor common
to both gate circuits protect the
MOSFETs from static discharge and
noise pickup.
Note that since the water is held
at ground potential, stainless steel
probes should be used to slow corrosion.
Geoff Coppa,
Elanora, Qld. ($35)
While similar to the “Cheap Pump
Controller” described in Circuit
Notebook, August 2005, this slightly
more elaborate unit pumps water
from a rainwater tank to fill a cistern.
As before, it uses a low-cost water
feature pump, which is switched
with a 240VAC-rated relay.
When the toilet is flushed, the
water level drops below the “low”
probe, causing the threshold input
(pin 6) of IC1 (555) to swing high.
Its output (pin 3) immediately goes
low, biasing Q1 on, energising the
relay and starting the pump.
When the water level subsequent
ly reaches the “high” probe, IC1’s
trigger input (pin 2) is pulled
towards ground. The output thus
switches high and turns off the relay.
siliconchip.com.au
;exit
;if clear inc result
;& exit
is incremented or decremented as
appropriate. The “jog done” flag is
then set to indicate to the following
code that the result register has been
modified.
Finally, note that rotary encoders
can be obtained from Farnell – see
www.farnellinone.com.au.
Bryce Templeton,
via email.
Issues Getting
Dog-Eared?
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Price: $A12.95 plus $7 p&p per
order (includes GST). Just fill in
and mail the handy order form in
this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503;
or ring (02) 9979 5644 and quote
your credit card number. Available in Australia only.
May 2006 35
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE-Powered
Pocket Timer
Here’s a simple, easy to build
pocket-sized timer with just one
pushbutton switch and two LEDs.
It’s based on a PICAXE-18X micro, a
4093 quad Schmitt NAND gate and
a few discrete components.
Together with a 220kW resistor
and 47nF capacitor, one gate of the
4093 (IC1c) is used to clean up the
signal from the switch (S1) before
it is applied to input0 (pin 17) of
the micro.
Pressing the switch pulls the two
inputs of IC1b low, driving the output high and powering the PICAXE
micro via diode D2. Assuming initial conditions, the BASIC program
begins execution and immediately
sets output1 (pin 7) high, which – via
IC1d, IC1a and D3 – also powers the
PICAXE. This keeps the power on
after the switch is released, removing the need for a separate on/off
switch.
With the program now running,
the “tens” LED lights. Pushing the
switch while this LED is on increments the tens-of-minutes component of the timing period. Each
button press is sensed via input0
and accumulated in a program variable.
36 Silicon Chip
After five seconds, the “tens” LED
goes out and the “units” LED lights.
Pushing the switch now increments
the minutes component of the timing
period, with the total count accumulated in another program variable.
For example, if you were to push
twice while the tens LED is lit and
twice while the units LED is lit, the
program will register a time period
of 22 minutes. Note that if you want
less than 10 minutes, don’t push the
switch while the tens LED is on.
Let’s say you’ve selected 22 minutes. After the “units” LED goes
out, the unit will display the time
selected by flashing the “tens” LED
twice and the “units” LED twice,
followed by a short beep to indicate
that the timing period has begun.
The “tens” LED flashes every second
during the countdown. When there
are less than five minutes left, both
LEDs light alternately. When there
is less than one minute left, the
“units” LED flashes. During the last
10s, both LEDs flash and the piezo
sounder ticks each second. The unit
then “rings” to indicate that the time
has expired.
If the switch is held in for at least
3s during the timing period, the timing will be interrupted and a short
“beep” will be heard. The unit then
displays (via the LEDs) the number
of minutes that are remaining, using the code mentioned earlier. The
PICAXE then powers itself off by
setting output1 low.
Counts up, too!
If the switch isn’t pressed while
either the “tens” or “units” LEDs
are lit, then after the usual 5-second
wait, both LEDs will light. Pressing
the switch at this point places the
unit in “count-up” mode.
This mode has a maximum time
period of two hours and is set identically to the count down mode above.
During the first hour the “units” LED
will flash. At one hour the unit gives
a short beep and for the next hour
the “tens” LED will flash. After two
hours the unit beeps twice and then
turns off.
If the button is held in for more
than three seconds at any time during this mode, the timing stops and
the LEDs display the elapsed time
– just add the tens indication (x10)
and the units indication. The unit
then turns off.
Note: the BASIC program (ptimer.
bas) could not be reproduced here
due to space restrictions but will be
available for free download from the
SILICON CHIP website.
Eric Rodda,
Marion, SA. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
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and NiMH battery packs
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May 2006 37
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Fig.1: the ZXSC300 can be mounted
on a circular section of PC board,
with the remaining parts glued
beneath the disc. All wiring is pointto-point using light gauge copper
wire, the result being only slightly
larger than a 5mm LED.
Miniature LED
Torch Bulbs
LED torch bulb replacements are
becoming more common but making
your own can be fun and challenging. You’ll need a steady hand and
a lot of patience to work with the
requisite miniature components,
though!
This design uses a ZXSC300 stepup DC-DC converter IC to make a
2-cell to single white LED driver. It’s
essentially the same as the example
in the Zetex datasheet (see www.
zetex.com), and can be assembled
into a tiny module for fitting inside
a standard torch bulb housing.
The ZXSC300 doesn’t directly
regulate LED current. Instead, the
peak current is limited by monitoring the voltage across a small resistor
in series with the transistor’s emitter lead. When this voltage reaches
19mV, the transistor is switched off
and the “on” period terminates.
In common with all inductive
step-up converters, the energy stored
in the inductor is transferred to the
load and output capacitor via the
diode (D1) during the “off” period,
which in the ZXSC300 is fixed at
1.7ms. Q1 is then switched back on
and the cycle repeats. The frequency
of operation is thus determined by
the time it takes for the inductor
current to ramp up to the specified
value, which is related to both the
inductance and the supply voltage.
All components must be surfacemount types if the completed module is to fit in a bulb housing. The
sense resistor (R1) can be a standard
0603 or 0805 case size (eg, Farnell
806-7694). Alternatively, it could be
constructed from a short length of
Cuprothal resistance wire (available
from Dick Smith Electronics) – taking into account that it would need
to be fine-tuned when in place.
The ZXSC300 driver, transistor
and diode are also available from
Farnell, on line at www.farnellinone.com.au or phone 1300 361
005. The 2.2mF output capacitor
must be a ceramic type and could be
made by stacking two 1mF types (eg.
Altronics R-8650). The inductor may
The Latest From SILICON CHIP
•
•
•
•
Fig.2: the assembled
module sits nicely
between the leads of
an 8mm LED.
Fig.3: a 3-LED
version can be
built with only
minor component
variations. See the
Zetex application
notes at www.
zetex.com for
more information.
prove a little harder to source. It can
be wound on just about any ferrite
drum or rod that is small enough for
the job. For highest efficiency, aim
for a winding resistance of 0.5W or
less.
Peter Dixon,
Chippendale, NSW. ($35)
160 PAGES
23 CHAPTE
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38 Silicon Chip
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May 2006 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
The one-day TV technician
TV servicing is difficult enough without
getting caught out by my own carelessness.
Nor does it help to have one of my smartalec colleagues rub salt into the wound.
I had a 2002 Sony PFM-42B2E flat
panel plasma monitor come in with
lines on the screen. This unit uses a
Fujitsu PDP (plasma display panel).
Fortunately, we had another identical
set which had just been fixed and was
on soak test, so we were able to swap
modules and isolate the problem to
the B Y-SUS board.
As described in a previous article,
when working on these sets, we use
the cardboard packaging that protects
40 Silicon Chip
new plasma screens. The raised foam
blocks glued onto this cardboard support the screen, while fragments of
mirror tiles placed between the blocks
enable us to observe what is happening on the screen during the course
of the repair.
A small problem is what to do with
the enormous amount of screws and
hardware that accumulate as you
strip down the machine to access the
boards. Most times, you have to have
an array of plastic boxes to put all
this stuff into. Unfortunately, with
the pressure of work and the demand
for quicker and quicker service, the
screws are invariably left resting on
the back face of the plasma panel.
In this case, I was under pressure
and being distracted by a colleague
who has a strong accent and can
sometimes be difficult to comprehend. Anyway, I unscrewed the metal
screening cover and instead of putting
it to one side, I left it lying on top of
the power supply (Switching Regulator APS-179). And as you can probably
guess, when I put the new board in, I
switched the set on to check whether
all was OK and completely forgot
about this screen.
Of course, that was a big mistake.
The metal screen shorted out one of
the live heatsinks to an earthed heatsink, which completely killed the set.
My colleague thought that this was
hilarious. “Mate”, he said with this
heavy accent, “you know why you
are called the wonder technician? Because you are one day
technician, no? Ha, ha!”
Oh well, humour is all in
the eye of the beholder. One
day, I’ll give him his “one
day technician” stuff right
back in his face!
OK, so I’d started with a
working plasma panel, got
it to give a good picture
and then, because of my
carelessness, had made it
to stop working altogether!
However, it really wasn’t
that bad – power was getting into the board and
some voltages were present.
What’s more, there were no
obvious burnt components,
nor had there been any major
noises or explosions when
it failed.
Encouraged by this, I removed
the board and checked all likely
fuses and fusible resistors. Nothing was immediately obvious until I
siliconchip.com.au
measured R101, a 10W resistor, which
was open circuit. Replacing it fixed the
problem and I was back in business.
But I was lucky – you really can’t
afford to be careless or complacent
when working with this kind of gear.
And I’ll remember my colleague’s “one
day tech” jibe.
Storm damage
TV sets hit in electrical storms
are always dodgy – especially when
it comes to warranty claims later.
Lightning, being the erratic animal it
is, can damage all sorts of odd circuits
in a set, causing all sorts of bizarre
trouble. And it’s not just the parts that
immediately fail that cause problems.
Many other parts can be put under so
much strain that they barely survive
but then fail later.
Recently, I had a Sony KV-E29SN11
(BG1L chassis) which was dead after
an electrical storm. The switchmode
power supply was still working,
though its output was low.
I removed the screen covers over
the microcontroller and found that the
5-pin 5V IC regulator (IC601, L78LR050MA) had burnt up, creating a hole
through the board. I also found that a
22W 2W resistor had been fitted where
link JW158 is shown on the circuit. This
resistor had been getting very hot from
the current it feeds to IC601.
Further up the food chain, I found
that Q601 (2SA1315-Y) and R606
(18W) were similarly getting hot sup-
siliconchip.com.au
plying current for IC601. Interestingly,
this is only a back-up circuit for the
main 11V rail that also feeds IC601 via
a diode. This back-up circuit is also
part of the power-on circuit and the
135V control circuit (which caused
the 135V rail to drop).
I replaced all the parts and though
I had some success, the results still
weren’t satisfactory, with too much
current still being drawn – probably by
faulty internal diodes and zener diodes
in the microprocessor IC set on the 5V
rail. In the end, this set was written off
and the client got a new one with the
insurance money.
An easy intermittent
A Chinese-built 2002 AWA W6900S/
SF MkII came in with an intermittent
no picture fault.
Of course it took a very long time for
the fault to re-occur and as luck would
have it, it only appeared just after we
had told the client to come and collect it. Fortunately, it was an easy fix;
the CRT filaments were intermittent
and the fault was traced to a hairline
fracture on R920, the 1W series resistor from the flyback transformer to the
CRT heaters.
I wish that all intermittent faults
were as easy as this.
Doing a Lazarus
A newish Sanyo WF2-00 (EB7-A32
chassis) came in DOA (dead on arrival)
and still under warranty. Our job was
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Sony PFM-42B2E plasma
monitor
Sony KV-E29SN11 TV set
(BG1L chassis)
AWA W6900S/SF MkII TV set
Sanyo WF2-00 TV set (EB7A32 chassis)
LG CA-20F898 TV set (MC994A chassis)
Panasonic Dimension 4 Genius
Convection Microwave oven
NN-C855B
Panasonic PT-LC50E LCD
projector
to raise it from the dead – just like
Lazarus.
Anyway, the set’s switchmode pow
er supply had spat the dummy, blowing
chopper transistor Q613 (2SC4429), its
driver (Q612, 2SC3807) and the surge
resistor (R695, 1.8kW 7W). These parts
were all replaced and the set indeed
rose from the dead.
The only awkward part of this miracle was that its OSD was in a foreign
tongue. I didn’t have the instruction
book but I struggled on with the menu
before I worked out that it was stuck
in Croatian! Once I knew what I was
doing, I was able to set up the tuning
for the local stations.
May 2006 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Replacing it fixed the problem and
the repair came in within budget – a
win-win situation for both of us.
Squashing the cockroaches
Personally, I feel that all manufacturers should get together for a convention on the OSD language options
and colour code, or place them in the
same position in all sets. It would make
it all so much easier if, for example,
English was always in red and Croatian
in orange (say) and if the language
option was always the fifth item on
the menu list. Still, who listens to the
technician?
The ticking LG
A dead 1999 LG CA-20F898 (MC994A chassis) 48cm TV was brought
in to be repaired. Nowadays, these
sets really aren’t worth looking at,
42 Silicon Chip
considering the price of new ones, but
the owner insisted.
Anyway, this set was ticking (pulsating), which meant that the switchmode
power supply was in protection mode,
probably due to a short circuit.
In a beachside suburb, the usual
culprits are the flyback transformer
and the line output transistor which
would make the cost prohibitive in
such a budget model. However, the
owner was persistent – he felt sure it
could be fixed within his budget and
told me to do the best I could.
Well, of course, the line output transistor (Q402, 2SD2499) had gone short
circuit so I replaced it, half-expecting
it to instantly destruct
again at switch-on. Instead, I got a vertical white
line down the centre.
This was unusual and
is almost always due to a
dry joint in the deflection
stage – which in a 48cm
set is really simple to fix.
However, there were no
dry joints and the yoke
and the horizontal linearity coil were both OK.
That just left yoke coupler C412, a 0.33mF 400V
high-current capacitor.
Edith Montague is in her late seventies and still drives a car – well, barely.
One hot summer day she arrived at our
place unannounced and her first words
to me were that she had got horribly
lost and it was all our fault.
We are obviously in the wrong place
and all our signs are invisible!
When she finally finished blowing
us up for getting lost, I learnt that there
was a microwave oven in the back of
her car, which Edith repeatedly told
me would not give a display. I carried
the microwave into the workshop for
her and placed it on my bench.
This particular unit was a 1995 Panasonic Dimension 4 Genius Convection
Oven, model NN-C855B. I plugged it in
and the display came on straightaway.
What could she have been thinking?
Well, it might be intermittent so I
thought I would give it the once over
and took the covers off.
As soon as I did this, you could hear
the rustle as hundreds of cockroaches
ran for cover. I smartly replaced the
cover and took it outside where I
sprayed a large amount of insecticide
inside and beat a hasty retreat. The effect of this poison was pretty rapid and
I subsequently blasted the corpses out
with an air compressor before carrying
the oven back into the workshop.
The cockroaches alone would be
easily enough to cause corrosion, in
turn giving an intermittent display.
However, the problem had to be investigated further, so I removed the
front control panel and the PC board.
When this was out, I removed a few
more jammed corpses and egg sacs
before examining the PC board itself.
This carried the general mess from a
cockroach infestation and there was
also some of the infamous brown glue
spread over some of the components.
And as if that wasn’t enough, there
were dry joints on pins P and E of the
mains transformer (T1).
I also noticed that one of the oven’s
lamps had failed and so gave her a
quote to fix all the above. She wasn’t
prepared to just take my word for it
though and wanted a detailed explanation of all the faults. However, after
having a good whinge about the very
reasonable estimate I had given her,
she finally agreed to the work.
siliconchip.com.au
The job was straightforward and
when I had finished, I gave it a thorough test to make sure it was working properly. The display was now
excellent, especially after a good clean
on the outside of the window. I then
advised Edith that the oven was ready
and she came straight over.
When she eventually arrived, I got
another tongue lashing over her getting lost a second time. Now, I can
understand someone getting lost once
but twice is somewhat careless. After
all, we have been at this address for
over six years and no-one else had
ever got lost.
I wasn’t in a position to demonstrate the oven but I assured her that
the display had been fixed and that I
had tested it. With that, she paid and
left, presumably to get lost on the way
home. Anyway, I thought that would
be the end of the matter but it wasn’t
to be.
A few hours later, Edith was on the
phone, not only complaining vociferously that she still had no display
but demanding that I come round
immediately and fix it in her home. I
was incredulous. How could this be?
There had to be another factor. “Are
you quite certain there is no display?”,
I asked. “Absolutely”, she insisted.
Perhaps she hadn’t plugged the
oven in – after all, that would give no
display. I asked her if the light came
on when she opened the oven door
and was told that it did, so scratch
that theory.
This had me baffled. As a compromise, I grudgingly said I would call
around but explained that I had no
facilities to fix anything in her home. If
there was a genuine problem, it would
have to go back to the workshop.
siliconchip.com.au
When I got to her place,
I finally understood what
she meant by “no display”. The display wasn’t
blank at all but was instead showing just the
two little dots which form
the colon between the
hours and minutes digits.
And that to her meant no
display.
I switched the unit off
and then on again at the
power point and the usual
“WELCOME” display message immediately came
on. However, it would
then go into “9 LAMB”
and 10 CHICKEN” alternately. Apart
from the STOP/RESET button, nothing
else worked and I was just left with
the time colon. I couldn’t even set the
clock and it was fairly obvious that the
membrane switch was jammed on the
9 Lamb/10 Chicken selection.
Back at the workshop, I removed
the membrane switch altogether and
it was indeed faulty. Switch Q17 was
intermittently short circuit and had
probably only previously worked in
my workshop because it had been a
hot day, which kept the air expanded
between the two halves of the membrane switch.
Clearly, the unit would have to
be replaced but by now, Edith had
lost confidence in both me and her
microwave oven. She phoned to inform me she had bought a brand new
microwave and asked what part of her
money was I going to refund because
she “hadn’t got anything for it”!
There was really no point arguing
but I still wanted to recoup my labour
costs for the work I had already done.
Anyway, I told her that if she left her
microwave behind, I would tear up
her cheque.
For some reason, this didn’t register
with her and she just kept repeating
her question over and over again – like
a needle stuck in a groove. Eventually,
I was forced to put a stop to her tirade.
I bluntly told her to stop talking and
listen very carefully. What had I said
to her?
Well, she couldn’t remember. So,
very slowly, I repeated myself to her
until the message sank in.
She was relieved to get her money
back and I got to keep the old oven as
compensation for my time and effort.
In the end, I replaced the part and then
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These are 7.6mm square and can be
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•Red and amber: $2 each
•Blue, green and cyan: $3 each
Asian Superflux
Same as above, but much
lower cost.
•Red and amber: Just 50 cents each!
•Blue, green, aqua and white: $1 each.
Go to www.ata.org.au or call
us on (03)9419 2440.
sold it, so I did manage to make some
money after all.
LCD projector
We had a Panasonic LCD projector
PT-LC50E come in requiring a new
lamp unit (Part No: ET-LAC50 – a
mere $600!)
However, after replacing the special
globe, the projector intermittently
wouldn’t work, giving no functions
except an error code CØ in the display.
This means an incorrectly installed
air-filter.
After fiddling around with the unit
for a while, we discovered that the
cause was due to the door and its
sensor switch. However, measuring
the plug with an ohmmeter showed
there was perfect continuity when the
switch was closed.
This was quite baffling until it
dawned on us that when measuring the
plug, the meter probes were pressing in
the pins and making contact. The fault
was actually in the plug itself, with
the connectors being dry jointed. We
just kept missing this with the way we
were measuring it. Resoldering them
SC
fixed the problem.
May 2006 43
The Luxeon LED Spotlight being
used as a headlight on a Greenspeed
pedal-powered recumbent trike. The
car in the main beam is 35 metres
away. Note also the broad, lower
intensity illumination immediately
in front of the trike. Even on roads
that have no street lights, sufficient
illumination is provided to allow
pedalling at up to 75km/h.
PART 2: By JOHN CLARKE & JULIAN EDGAR
Universal High-Energy
LED Lighting System
Last month, we introduced our brilliant new Luxeon LED lighting
system and described how it works. This month, we look at its
construction and describe how to make a very effective Luxeonpowered spotlight.
T
HE UNIVERSAL High-Energy LED
Lighting System is built on a PC
board coded 11004061 (104 x 79mm)
and is housed in a diecast aluminium
box (115 x 90 x 55mm). An aluminium
box was used because it provides
sufficient heatsinking for Mosfets Q1
& Q2 and for the battery pack (this
44 Silicon Chip
heatsinking is needed at high charge
and discharge rates).
In addition, the aluminium housing
is rugged and weatherproof.
Board assembly
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on the
PC board. Begin construction by care-
fully checking the PC board for breaks
or shorts between the copper tracks.
Repair any defects (rare these days),
then install PC stakes at all the external wiring points. Follow these with
all the low-profile parts including the
wire links, resistors, small capacitors
and the diodes.
siliconchip.com.au
It might look like a bland box
but there’s a lot inside! Visible is
the cover for the LDR (left) and
at right, the on/off pushbutton
and the battery status LED. The
weatherproof Luxeon output
cable can also be seen.
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board as shown here. Note that R1 is a surface
mount resistor and is installed on the copper side of the board. Note also that
the 4700mF capacitor is mounted on its side – see photos.
Once these parts are in, you can
install the surface-mount resistor (R1)
on the copper side of the PC board.
You will have to refer to Table 5 to
determine which of the two provided
surface-mount resistors is installed.
Next, install the electrolytic capacitors, voltage regulator REG1 and the
transistors but leave the two Mosfets
out for the time being. Make sure that
these parts are all correctly orientated
(the same goes for the diodes).
Note that the 4700mF capacitor is
not mounted vertically – instead, it is
positioned on its side (see photo). Be
sure to leave sufficient lead length to
allow for this positioning.
When winding T1 and L1, use a
generous smear of silicone sealant
under and over each winding layer.
Also smear silicone on the top and
bottom of the mating surfaces of each
core half. Note that both L1 and T1
require 0.5mm spacers to separate
their pot cores (these can be made
Winding the inductors
Inductor L1 and transformer T1 can
now be wound. L1 simply consists of
38 turns of 0.63mm enamelled copper
wire on an FX2240 pot core and bobbin
assembly. By contrast, T1’s windings
depend on the LEDs being driven (see
Table 5). It’s also easy to make – just
wind on the primary turns, then neatly
wind on the secondary turns over the
top – see Fig.3. The windings can go
in either direction.
Table 4: Capacitor Codes
Value μF Code EIA Code IEC Code
100nF 0.1µF
104
100n
1nF
.001µF 102
1n0
Table 3: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
3
1
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
Value
470kW
220kW
56kW
10kW
2.2kW
1kW
470W
330W 1W
47W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
red red yellow brown
green blue orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange orange brown gold
yellow violet black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
red red black orange brown
green blue black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
not applicable
yellow violet black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
May 2006 45
Table 5: Transformer Winding Data & LED Current
Luxeon
Option
Transformer (T1)
LED Wiring
1 x 1W
R1
2W
TP2
Individual LED
(VR4 adjust)
Current
Primary
(0.63mm ENCU)
Secondary
(0.63mm ENCU)
22 Turns
13 Turns
0.5W
175mV
Total LED
Current
Test
Resistor
350mA
350mA
10W 5W
2 x 1W
Series
16 Turns
22 Turns
0.5W
175mV
350mA
350mA
22W 5W
3x1W
Series
17 Turns
33 Turns
0.5W
175mV
350mA
350mA
22W 5W &
10W 5W in
series
4 x 1W
Two lots of
series 2 x 1W
in parallel
26 Turns
32 Turns
0.2W
140mV
350mA
700mA
10W 10W
6 x 1W
Three lots of
series 2 x 1W
in parallel
26 Turns
36 Turns
0.2W
210mV
350mA
1.05A
6.8W 10W
22 Turns
17 Turns
0.2W
200mV
1A
1A
3.3W 5W
26 Turns
36 Turns
0.2W
200mV
1A
1A
6.8W 10W
26 Turns
36 Turns
0.2W
140mV
700mA
700mA
10W 10W
1 x 3W
2 x 3W
Series
1 x 5W
As shown in this table, the number of turns wound on the transformer, the value of resistor R1 and the adjustment of
trimpot VR4 all depend on the LEDs that are to be driven. In addition, this table shows whether the LEDs are wired in
series, parallel or a series/parallel combination. Note: there is no option to use five 1W LEDs.
from 0.5mm plastic sheet). These
spacers sit between the central bosses
of the pot cores.
The final step in the construction of
these components is to force silicone
into the gaps on the outside of the
cores. Clean up the edges with a sharp
knife when the silicone has set.
Important: if you do not use sufficient silicone, the inductor and
transformer will emit buzzes and
squeals – so use plenty of it!
Having completed winding the inductors, they can be installed on the
PC board. Be sure to orientate T1 so
that its secondary winding goes to the
right, so that the leads connect to the
bridge rectifier (D3-D6).
Other parts
Switch S1, the battery charge/
discharge LED (LED1) and the LDR
Fig.4: Mosfets Q1 & Q2 must be
insulated from the metal case
using insulating washers and
Nylon screws, as shown here.
Note that the Nylon screws should
be cut to length.
Changing the PWM Frequency
Fig.3: transformer T1 is wound
using 0.63mm enamelled copper
wire – see Table 5. The windings
can be made in either direction.
To reduce noise, the windings
should be sealed with silicone, as
described in the main text. Note
that a 0.5mm spacer is inserted in
the middle of the cores for both T1
and inductor L1.
46 Silicon Chip
During normal operation, a faint “squeal” is emitted from the electronic circuitry
or more specifically, from the transformer. This can be quietened if a higher (13kHz)
PWM frequency is selected, rather than the default 7.8kHz.
The downside is that the dimming functions will not work as precisely. To change the
frequency, first select position 14 (E) on the BCD switch. That done, wait for the red
LED to come on and then turn off, then select another switch position. The frequency
will change from 7.8kHz to 13kHz, which is virtually inaudible in this application.
If you select position E again, the PWM frequency will revert to 7.8kHz.
siliconchip.com.au
To provide clearance, the stand-offs
within the box must be removed. This
can be done by using a large-diameter
drill bit followed by a high-speed deburring tool or a grinding stone held
in the chuck of an electric drill.
can now all go in. In each case, leave
sufficient lead length to allow these
components to be bent back out of the
way when fitting the PC board into the
box. The LED must be mounted with
its leads bent at right angles, so that it
can later be pushed through a matching
hole in the side of the case.
Before the PC board can be fitted into
the box, the integral stand-offs need
to be removed. This can be achieved
using a large diameter drill, followed
by a high-speed deburring tool or a
grinding stone held in the chuck of
an electric drill. Wear safety goggles
when performing this job.
Once the standoffs have been removed, position the board inside the
case and mark out and drill the four
corner mounting holes. These holes
should be countersunk, so that the
heads of the Nylon mounting screws
The electronics are a tight fit in the box, with one capacitor being placed on its
side. Be sure to wind the inductors tightly, to minimise audible high-frequency
noise from them.
sit flush with the lower surface of the
box. That done, temporarily secure
the board in position using 4mm-long
Nylon spacers and 3M x 12mm Nylon
screws and nuts – see Fig.5.
Note: the four 4mm-long Nylon
spacers are made by cutting two 9mm
spacers in half.
Mounting the Mosfets
The next step is to determine where
the mounting holes go in the case for
the two Mosfets. To do this, first crank
their leads slightly as shown in Fig.4,
then slip them into their board mounting holes. Next, push the two Mosfets
down into their holes until they are
about 12mm proud of the board and
position them so that their metal tabs
sit flat against the case.
You can now mark out their tab
mounting holes from inside the case.
Once that’s done, remove the PC board
(and the Mosfets), transfer the hole
locations to the outside of the case and
drill them to 3mm. These two holes
Mounting The PC Board Inside The Case
Fig.5: the PC board is mounted inside the case on M3 x 4mm Nylon spacers and
secured using M3 x 15mm Nylon screws and nuts.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 47
Adjusting The Charging Current
In its default condition, the Universal High Energy LED Lighting System is designed
to be used with a power source that can recharge the batteries at up to 700mA. Note
that because of the temperature rise that occurs primarily in the batteries, this is the
maximum recommended continuous charge rate.
However, there are some applications where better results can be gained by altering
this charge rate. For example, if you’re using a solar cell, you may have a maximum
charging current capability of only 300mA available. On the other hand, if you’re using
a human-powered generator that can develop discontinuous bursts of 1A, you may
want to charge at this higher rate.
As a result, the charging current can be set anywhere from 100mA to 1A in 50mA
increments.
Note that the charging current referred to here is the current delivered to the
Universal High Energy LED Lighting System, not the current supplied to the battery.
The current supplied to the batteries is dependent on both the input voltage and
the charging voltage. At input voltages between about 8.6-12.6V, the battery charging current is similar to the input current. Above 12.6V, however, the battery charging
current increases with input voltage. For example, at 18V input, the battery is charged
at about twice the current that is supplied to the input. This is possible because the
charging circuit is a power converter – it converts the high input voltage into a lower
voltage to correctly charge the battery and at the same time, increases the battery
charging current.
To change the charging current from its default value of 700mA, just follow these
two steps:
(1) Set the BCD switch to Mode 15 – marked as ‘F’ on the switch. The green indicator
LED will then flash at a 1-second rate, to show the charging current that has been set.
Each flash equals 50mA and there is a 2-second break between each flash group. For
example, at the default 700mA charge rate, the LED with flash 14 times, then there
will be a 2-second delay, then it will flash 14 times again, and so on.
(2) To alter the charge current, press the pushbutton switch and hold it down, counting
the number of flashes. Let the pushbutton go when the required current value has
been reached. The LED will acknowledge the new setting with a revised flash number.
Note that if the BCD switch is changed while the current reading is being flashed,
the LED will continue to flash the code until it finishes its sequence.
Note also that plugpacks are not generally used at their full rating. This means that
if you have (say) a 700mA-rated plugpack and you set the charging current to 700mA,
you can expect the plugpack to become quite warm.
R1 (arrowed) is a surface-mount resistor that is placed on the copper side of the
PC board. Also visible here are the cable ties used to hold transformer T1 and
inductor L1 in place.
48 Silicon Chip
Adjustments &
Test Points
VR1 – sensitivity of the Light
Dependent Resistor
VR2 – sensitivity of the
thermistor
VR3 – reference voltage
VR4 – Luxeon LED current
S1 – operator’s pushbutton
S2 – Mode BCD rotary switch
TP1 – test point for setting
reference voltage
TP2, TP GND – test points for
measuring voltage across R1 to
set LED current
must then be carefully deburred using
an oversize drill so that the inside surfaces are smooth and free of any metal
swarf which could later puncture one
of the insulating washers.
The next step is to remount the PC
board inside the case, after which the
two Mosfets are mounted in position.
Bolt them to the side of the case using
M3 screws, then use a sharp pencil (or
a fine-tipped pen) to mark where their
leads meet the PC board.
Before removing the board again,
you also need to mark out the hole
locations for the cable gland, the
pushbutton switch, the indicator LED
and the charging socket. Similarly, if
the LDR is not going to be mounted
remotely, a hole also needs to be made
for this component (this can go in the
lid or in the side of the case).
The accompanying photos show the
locations of the various holes. Be sure
to position these holes accurately – installing the PC board and its associated
hardware in the case requires care, as
clearances are very tight. If you don’t
need such a compact assembly (or the
Universal High Energy LED Lighting
System is being incorporated into
other equipment), then feel free to
use a larger box – but don’t forget to
adequately heatsink Q1 and Q2. Suitable alternative heatsinks are 19 x 19
x 10mm U-shaped designs.
Having marked the hole locations,
remove the PC board and the Mosfets
from the case once again. The Mosfets
can now be finally soldered to the PC
board – just push them down until the
pencil marks on their leads meet the
siliconchip.com.au
board surface, then carefully solder
these leads to their respective pads.
Now drill the holes in the case for
the other parts. The square cutout for
switch S1 is best made by drilling a
hole that’s smaller than the finished
size and then filing to the required
rounded rectangular shape.
Once that’s been done, the PC board
can be finally mounted in place (see
Fig.5) and the two Mosfets (Q1 & Q2)
secured to the side of the case. Fig.4
shows the mounting details for the
Mosfets. Note that they must be electrically isolated from the metal case. This
is achieved by using a silicone washer
and by using M3 x 15mm Nylon screws
and nuts to fasten them in position.
Having secured them, switch your
multimeter to a low “ohms” range
and check that the device tabs are
indeed correctly isolated from the
metal case.
The switch, indicator LED and the
LDR can now be pushed through their
respective holes and secured in place
with silicone sealant.
The cells, main fuseholder and thermistor are glued to the inside of the
lid using silicone sealant – see Fig.6.
Note the location of the thermistor – it
should be placed in the centre of the
battery pack.
Make sure that the cells sit hard
against the lid and leave plenty of
time for the sealant to fully cure before
moving the assembly. We used C cells
that did not come with solder tags but
since soldering directly to NiMH cells
is not recommended, we suggest you
use cells with tags. Use 7.5A wire for
the batteries, 5A wire for charger leads
and twisted pair light-duty hookup
wire for the NTC thermistor.
A few precautions
Before moving on to the setting-up
procedure, there are a couple of precautions you need to observe. First,
always make sure that the power is
off when working on the circuit. This
Fig.6: the four 4500mAh cells, the fuseholder and the thermistor are glued
to the lid using silicone sealant. They must be wired as shown here.
can be done by removing the main
battery fuse.
Second, after the circuit has been
running, the 4700mF capacitor must
be discharged. To do this, press the
switch twice in modes 1, 2 or 3 to
momentarily light the Luxeon LEDs.
Incidentally, transformer T1 becomes hot when powering a full
Luxeon load and at high charge rates,
the batteries also become quite warm.
meter to check that there is battery
voltage between pins 5 & 14 of IC1. If
there is sufficient charge in the battery
pack, this voltage will be 5V.
(2). Adjust the reference voltage: con-
Setting up
Make sure that the battery pack is
connected with the correct polarity,
then install the fuse. You now need
to go through the following setting-up
procedure:
(1). IC1 power check: Set S1 (the BCD
Mode switch) to F, then use a multi
FOUR 1W LUXEON LEDS
Matching The Light From Multiple Luxeons
If the Luxeons are wired with parallel connections, it is best to match the
devices so they each have a similar brightness. Devices with exactly the
same type number printed on the back are generally the same in terms of
voltage drop at the rated current.
If you find that one or more Luxeons in a series/parallel connection is dimmer
than the rest, it is not well matched with the others. In that case, reduce the
drive current using VR4, so that the brighter LEDs are not over-driven.
siliconchip.com.au
SIX 1W LUXEON LEDS
Fig.7: in most cases, wiring the
Luxeon LEDs is straightforward.
However, when running four 1W
or six 1W Luxeons, series/parallel
arrangements must be used, as
shown here.
May 2006 49
This version of the spotlight differs a little
from the one described in the text in that
aluminium – rather than U-PVC plastic –
has been used to form the front rim. The
aluminium rim was machined from the base of
an old BCF aluminium fire extinguisher. When
there’s usually plenty of airflow, the heatsink
shown on this light is effective with a 5W
Luxeon LED. In non-ventilated applications, a
larger heatsink should be used.
Making a LED-Powered Spotlight
– use it as a bicycle headlight
Here’s how to build a durable and effective LED-powered spotlight – great
for use as a bike headlight or for use as
hand-held long-range lighting system.
The light output is just outstanding – in
fact, when you consider its miserly 5W
power consumption, it’s nothing short
of fantastic.
Apart from the electronic control
you only need a handful of parts. The
accompanying parts list shows what
you need.
Building it
OK, let’s build it. First, cut a hole
about 65mm in diameter in the centre
of the plastic plumbing cap. Sand the
edges smooth and then use silicone
to glue the lens within the cap. This
assembly forms the focusing lens.
Next, drill holes in the heatsink to
allow small nuts and screws to be
used to attach the LED to the heatsink.
Drill an additional pair of holes in the
heatsink to allow the power supply
50 Silicon Chip
wiring to the LED to pass through the
heatsink. Alternatively, these wires
can pass through a hole drilled in the
stainless steel drinking cup.
Now use a file to shorten the plastic
legs of the collimating lens so that it
sits squarely over the LED, legs resting against the heatsink and the centre
of the collimator in contact with the
LED. Place some heatsink compound
under the LED and then attach it to
the heatsink using the small screws
and nuts. Check that the heads of the
screws do not short the power supply
connections to the LED (you may want
to use Nylon nuts and bolts).
Once the LED is in place, glue the
collimating lens securely in place. That
done, pass the wiring through the
heatsink and solder it to the LED, then
seal the holes through the heatsink
with silicone.
The next step is to cut a 35mm
hole in the centre of the bottom of
the stainless steel cup. If the spotlight
is to be permanently mounted, drill
the cup for any brackets that will be
needed. Deburr all holes, then position
the heatsink on the bottom of the cup
so that the LED and collimator lens
project through the 35mm hole.
Finally, mark and drill the holes to
bolt the heatsink to the cup, sealing
this join with silicone.
Testing
Test the operation of the LED with
the focusing lens in place. The assembly should throw a very bright spot
of light about 600mm wide on a wall
three metres away. This beam angle is
ideal for a long-range bike headlight,
or for a general-purpose spotlight or
high-powered torch.
If all is working satisfactorily, use
silicone to glue the lens assembly
in place.
Performance
The performance of the prototype
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
Making A Low-Cost 1W Luxeon LED Housing
1 5W Luxeon LED
1 narrow-beam collimating lens
(eg, Jaycar ZD-0420)
1 large finned heatsink to suit
the LED – eg, Altronics Cat.
H0520 or an ex-PC processor
heatsink
1 stainless-steel drinking cup
1 U-PVC plastic plumbing cap
that fits over the open end of
the cup
1 magnifying glass (glass – not
plastic!) the same diameter as
the open end of the cup
Assorted small nuts and bolts
Note: in most cases, the cup mouth
will have a diameter of 75mm, making it easy to source the plastic cap
and magnifying glass.
Here’s how to make a durable and good-looking weatherproof housing for
a 1W Luxeon LED when it’s used with either Jaycar ZD-0420 or ZD-0422
collimators.
You’ll need a PVC 25mm Class 18 pipe cap (about $3 from a hardware
store), some black silicone and a few hand tools.
Start by using a file and sandpaper to smooth away the raised writing to
be found on the back of the cap (this doesn’t do anything for the engineering
but a lot for the aesthetics!). That done, drill a hole for the cable entry and
also any other holes needed for mounting brackets. If used, the brackets
should be attached at this point. And if you intend painting the housing and
bracket, do it now.
Next, solder the wires to the LED, feed them through the hole in the housing
and position the LED at the bottom. Secure it in place with some silicone,
then shorten the legs on the collimator so that it sits over the top of the LED.
Carefully apply silicone around the upper part of the collimator, ensuring that
you seal the gaps.
You can now slide the collimator into place in the housing, making sure that
it engages with the LED. Use a rag to carefully wipe away the surplus silicone
but be sure to fill any gaps around the edge of the LED. Finally, place a little
silicone around the cable exit to seal this opening.
Note that because there is no provision for heatsinking, this housing is not
suitable for 3W and 5W LEDs.
unit – which is used as a bike headlight
– was outstanding. On a country road
lacking any street lights, and tested on
a very dark night with no moonlight or
starlight, sufficient illumination was
provided by the headlight to allow
for safe pedalling downhill at over
75km/h. Used as a handheld spotlight, it could easily illuminate trees
50 metres away.
If less power is required, a 3W LED
can be used in place of the 5W LED.
If the assembly is always going to
have airflow over it (eg, if it is being
used as a bike headlight), the 3W
LED can be bolted to the inside of a
single-wall cup and the cup itself used
as the heatsink. This saves having to
make the large hole in the bottom of
the cup and removes the need for a
separate, finned heatsink. A stationary 3W light should retain the finned
external heatsink.
If you want the best, though, the
5W design described above is it! But
if you simply want a compact but still
very effective spotlight beam, the 3W
Luxeon with the Jaycar narrow beam
collimator (Cat. ZD-0420) gives excellent results.
Finally, single-wall stainless steel
drinking cups can now be very hard to
find but Coastal Kitchen and Cutlery
on the Gold Coast (07 5526 9399)
have them in stock at $5.50 each. A
double-wall (ie, insulated) cup can
also be used but it is heavier and more
difficult to drill.
siliconchip.com.au
nect a multimeter between the negative battery lead and TP1. Adjust VR3
for 2.490V.
(3).Thermistor calibration: adjust trim
pot VR2 so that there’s 1.25V across the
thermistor terminals at 25°C.
(4). Connect the test resistor: wire a test
resistor across the Luxeon LED output
(ie, in place of the Luxeon LEDs). Table
5 shows the value to use. Also, use
Table 5 to check that both R1 and T1
are correct.
(5). Setting the LED current: set VR4
fully anticlockwise and set S2 to Mode
1. Switch on the system by quickly
pressing S1 twice. Measure the voltage between TP GND and TP2. Set the
correct voltage using VR4, according to
Table 5. Note: during this process, the
test resistor will get very hot.
(6). Connecting the LEDs: wire in the
Luxeon(s), making sure their polarity
is correct and ensuring the Luxeons
are adequately heatsinked! Again
The multi-position BCD switch (centre) sets the operating mode of the system.
Also visible is the Light Dependent Resistor (arrowed) that’s used in some modes
to automatically switch on the Luxeon LED as ambient light changes. Depending
on requirements, this LDR (arrowed) can either be mounted within the box (and
sensing the light through a cut-down neon bezel) or mounted remotely.
May 2006 51
Be Sure To Provide Adequate Heatsinking
Heatsinks must be used with both 3W
and 5W Luxeon LEDs. Even the 1W
LEDs, which normally don’t require
additional heatsinking, can do with
some additional heatsinking when
run continuously at full power in hot
conditions.
In all cases, keeping the LED junction
temperature low will give greater light
output and longer LED life.
The size of the required heatsink
depends on:
• the nominal power of the LED;
ABOVE: a processor heatsink
• whether it is run at maximum
salvaged from an old PC is ideal
current;
for cooling 3W & 5W Luxeon
• whether it is on continuously or is
LEDs. Remove the old heat
flashed (and if flashed, the duty cycle);
transfer pad in the centre using
solvent, before attaching the LED.
• the ambient temperature;
ventilation;
and
•
• the thermal resistance of the heatsink.
If there is plenty of space available, it pays to simply run the best heatsinking
possible. In all cases, care must be taken to ensure that the aluminium face
of the PC board used for the LED is thermally connected to the heatsink. The
heatsink must be absolutely flat (no burrs from drilled holes) and a smear
of heatsink compound should be placed between the LED’s PC board and
the heatsink. In addition, the LED should be held in place securely with nuts
and bolts.
Ex-PC processor heatsinks are excellent for Luxeon LEDs, with older
486-sized heatsinks suiting 3W LEDs and larger heatsinks from later model
PCs suiting the 5W LEDs. If ventilation is poor, the fan that’s often found
attached to these heatsinks should be retained.
If the LED drive voltage is nominally 6.8V (as it is when running a single
5W LED or two series 3W LEDs), the fan can be wired directly across the
Luxeon output. It will rotate more slowly than if fed from 12V but it will still
spin fast enough to greatly improve heatsink performance.
Note that the current should be increased to take into account the fan draw.
The required increase in the setting of VR4 can be calculated by multiplying
the fan current in amps at 6.8V by the value of R1, which in these LED
applications is 0.2W. Typically, it’s about a 15mV increase.
In short, be generous with the heatsinking and if the heatsink gets hot
during operation, consider using a larger unit. Alternatively, consider adding
a fan if you haven’t already done so.
Where To Buy Programmed PICs
For those capable of doing their own programming, the software (luxeon.
hex) for the PIC16F88-E/P microcontroller used in this project will be available
for download from our website.
Alternatively, you can purchase a programmed microcontroller from SILICON
CHIP for $25.00 including postage anywhere within Australia, or $30.00 by
airmail elsewhere.
Note: it's unlikely that a complete kit of parts will be offered for this project.
However, you should have little difficulty buying the parts separately from
parts retailers. The PC board can be purchased from RCS Radio.
52 Silicon Chip
measure the voltage between TP GND
and TP2 and make the final adjustments using VR4 and Table 5.
The reason that the test resistor
is initially used in place
of the Luxeon LED is for
safety. If you have made a
major mistake that results
in uncontrolled current at the
output, the resistor will simply get
a bit hotter. And that’s much better
than blowing an expensive LED –
something that can happen in the
blink of an eye.
As mentioned last month, when the
system is switched off, it’s normal for
the battery monitor LED to flash momentarily every second or so.
Wiring the supply plug
If you’re using a plugpack and/or
car cigarette lighter plug to charge the
Universal High Energy LED Lighting
System, you’ll need to wire a 2-pin
DIN plug to the power source.
In the case of a plugpack, cut off
the original DC plug and separate and
bare the ends of the cable. Slip the DIN
plug cover over the cable, then use a
multimeter to determine the polarity
of the plugpack output. Solder the
positive lead to the smaller of the two
DIN plug pins and the negative to the
larger pin.
Make sure that the connections
cannot touch one another – you may
want to use some electrical tape or
heatshrink around the soldered connections.
Finally, slip the DIN plug cover back
over the plug and use a multimeter
to confirm that the voltage polarity
is correct.
The procedure is similar for a cigarette lighter plug. In this case, you have
to connect a 5A (minimum) figure-8
cable between the lighter plug and
the DIN plug (don’t forget to first slip
the cigarette lighter plug and DIN plug
covers over the cable).
Connect the smallest DIN plug pin
to the tip of the cigarette lighter plug.
The larger DIN plug pin then goes to
the side (chassis) connection of the
cigarette lighter plug.
Conclusion
Despite its unassuming appearance,
the Universal High Energy LED Lighting System required a major investment in time and effort. The result is a
LED lighting system that’s unmatched
SC
in flexibility and application.
siliconchip.com.au
TOOLKITS FOR HER
Who says tools are only for blokes?
Pink 23 Piece Mini Toolkit
It comes in a compact trendy carry case and is
perfect for doing repairs around the home or
office. These are quality tools with rubberized
grips and includes, a torch, side cutters,
pliers, tape measure,
driver bit handle,
extension bar,
jewellers screwdrivers,
tweezers, screwdriver
bit set and a socket
set.
Great M
other
gift ide 's Day
a!
Cat. TD-2067
$
95
19.
Pink 18 Piece Toolkit with Metal Case
It contains all the essential tools in a practical metal
attaché case (338(W) x 84(H) x 305(D)mm. The kit
includes, a hammer, 2 x flat bladed screwdriver,
pliers, shears, tape
measure, adjustable
spanner, slimline
metal-finished torch,
metal cutting blade
saw. Bonus matching
gloves and bandana.
• Included is an easyto-read manual to
help with some
common
household tasks.
Cat. TD-2068
$
95
49.
Rechargeable Cordless Screwdriver
Features a comfortable pistol grip that gives you
maximum control. The driver also has a bright LED
lamp, a magnetic bit holder and
a handy safety strap. There is
even a LED battery level
indicator that tells you
how much charge is
left in the battery.
• Bit holder size:
6.35mm.
Cat. TD-2498
• Mains charger included.
$
95
29.
RFID Access Control Module
When the pendant is
presented in front of the
module (3- 6mm) a 25V,
200mA relay closes. This is
enough to operate a solenoid
lock etc. The key fob is not
programmable so one key fits. Suitable Cat. AA-0210
for moderate security applications
$
95
• Module measures 40 x 40 x 10mm.
Extra key fob pendant (AA-0211) $14.95
59.
Don't forget Mother's Day
Sunday 14th May!
See our Mother's Day Flyer
in-store for more great gift ideas.
AM/FM Mantle Radio Receiver
You definitely won't get sound this good from a
plastic ghetto-blaster. This is a quality, nononsense radio for the home or office.
•Frequency range: AM - 540
to 1,600KHz, FM - 88 to
108MHz
•240VAC
•3.5 Watt power output
•3.5" 8 ohm speaker
•Solid timber case.
Cat. AR-1778
$
95
Automotive Current Tester
Simply plugs into any standard
blade fuse holder and provides
an easy-to-read LCD display of
the circuit's performance. The unit will
measure up to 48V max, current up
to 20A. With a 400mm cable.
• Supplied with 12V A23 battery.
Cat. QP-2251
• Measures: 86 x 37 x 28.5mm.
$
95
Ref: Silicon Chip May 06.
Like its predecessor this kit attacks a common
cause of failure in wet lead acid cell batteries:
sulphation. The circuit produces short bursts of high
level energy to reverse the
damaging sulphation
effect. This improved unit
features a battery
health checker with
LED indicator, new
circuit protection
against badly
sulphated batteries,
test points for a
DMM and
connection for a battery
Cat. KC-5427
charger. Suitable for 6V, 12V & 24V
$
95
batteries.
99.
Battery Zapper Add-On Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip May 06.
If you are one our many satisfied customers of the
original battery zapper kit, buy this add-on and
upgrade your zapper to the full functionality of the
Battery Zapper MkII. New components and
processed case supplied however to
complete the upgrade some original Cat. KC-5428
$
95
components need to be recycled.
29.
Audio Video Transmitters and Receivers
59.
With Jaycar's extensive range of audio video senders you can be assured of optimum performance and quality
signal strength. Transmit clear video and sound from sources such as your, set-top box, TV, DVD, pay TV,
camcorders and security cameras to anywhere in your home, office or building. They have an AV signal range
of up to 50 metres (line of sight).
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video
Sender
Our new
range of
audio video
senders are
even more
compact and
features 4
frequency
channels
complete with phased locked
loop (PLL) technology for assured
picture and audio clarity. Pack
includes a transmitter, receiver,
AV leads, power supplies and
instruction manual. Cat. AR-1842
$
95
Two Channel 2.4GHz Stereo
Audio Video Sender
Watch cable TV upstairs and
other A/V sources elsewhere!
This sender allows you to
connect two audio video devices
and can feed as many receivers
as you like. Includes built in IR
remote control repeater, selector
switch, AV leads, power supplies
and instruction manual.
Cat. AR-1846
$
95
129.
5.8GHz Audio Video Sender
Wireless LAN, Bluetooth,
cordless phones, etc, can cause
overcrowding and interference
for items that transmit on the
2.4GHz band. Beat the
congestion with this 5.8GHz unit
and ensure crystal clear reception
no matter what audio video
device you choose. Complete
with built in IR remote control
repeater, AV leads, power
supplies and
instruction
manual.
69.
Additional receivers sold
separately
AR-1843 $44.95
Also available with IR remote
control extender
AR-1844 $84.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
34.
KIT OF THE MONTH
Battery Zapper Kit MkII
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Additional receivers sold
separately AR-1847 $69.95
Cat. AR-1840
$
00
249.
1
Turn
your
PSP into a mini
Home Theatre
System! This PSP
charging station has
retractable speakers with built-in
amplifier, adjustable vertical stand and
wireless remote control. Enjoy surround
sound entertainment on your PSP Cat. XC-5190
$
95
wherever you go!
LCD Screen Cleaning Kit
A perfect match for a multi-room sound system!
Turn on up to 8 pairs of speakers without worrying
about your amplifier blowing up. Housed in a rugged
metal case, speakers are easily connected via the
strong spring terminals mounted on the rear, and
then quickly turned on and off via the front mounted
push buttons. Up to two amplifiers
PROTECT
can be connected and selected.
YOUR AMP
• Max power: 100W RMS.
79.
Cat. AC-1682
$
00
249.
Keep your plasma TV or LCD
monitor spotless. This easy
to use kit removes dust and
finger prints without
streaking, scratching or
staining.
Home Unit Powered Subwoofer
The inbuilt amplifier is rated at
30Watts RMS and drives a 6.5"
speaker to give solid low
frequency enhancement in your
home theatre or stereo system.
The box measures just
260(H) x200(W) x350(D)mm.
Cat. AA-0512 Was $139
$
00
Cat. AR-1418
$
95
ea
14.
Automotive Laptop
Power Supply
HDTV Distribution Amp
Now you don’t need multiple set top boxes!
Now you can have top quality TV in more than
one room. This unit distributes
SAVE
HDTV
$100
signals up
to four
ways
without losing
Cat. AC-1678
signal quality. Powered from the
00
supplied mains plugpack. Was $299.00 $
199.
MPEG4 Player
SAVE
$20
Cat. XC-4865
$
00
The latest technology!
The High Definition Multimedia
Interface (HDMI) provides high
quality signals for the best
reproduction quality.
1.5m
3.0m
5.0m
$39.95ea
$49.95ea
$64.95ea
3.0m
$39.95ea
HDMI to DVI Cable
Cat. WQ-7406
HDMI Adaptors
Cat. PA-3640 HDMI Socket to Socket
Cat. PA-3642 HDMI Plug to DVI-D Socket
Cat. PA-3644 HDMI Plug to DVI-D Plug
2
$14.95ea
$14.95ea
$14.95ea
.
Cat. AR-1896
$
95
This 240VAC mains operated device utilises a
sophisticated receiver that locks onto the
transmitter signal preventing any signal drift.
Add a new dimension to your
home theatre! It uses a well
designed bass reflex enclosure
for the best performance.
Measures 375(W) x 510(H) x
410(D)mm.
Was $399.00
SAVE
$50
Cat. CS-2456
$
00
• Use your own 8 ohm speakers
• 2 x 30WRMS power output
• Supplied with remote control
• Dimensions:
Transmitter:
70(W) x110(H) x36(D)mm
Amplifier:
95(W) x172(H) x125(D)mm
Cat. AR-1894
$
00
199.
349.
H O M E T H E AT R E M O U N T I N G E Q U I P M E N T
Jaycar has a range of versatile mounting hardware to help you place various pieces of
equipment in just the right position for the best possible picture or sound. Don't pay the inflated
prices some would charge you for similar brand name products.
LCD Monitor Wall Bracket
Ceiling Mount Projector Bracket
A heavy duty unit with swivel and
tilt adjustment.
• Maximum weight: 20kg
• Mounting system:
Universal top mount
• Projector not included
Cat. CW-2817
$
95
69.
Heavy duty
bracket also available.
CW-2818 $99.95
You can't go wrong with
this double arm
LCD/plasma bracket.
• Maximum weight: 8kg
• Mounting system: ESA
75/100mm
• Tilt angle: 90° All directions
Cat. CW-2813
$
95
59.
TV Wall Bracket
34.
HDMI Connecting Cables
Listen to music, the radio, or just about any sound
source anywhere around the house without running
messy wires.
Wireless Audio Transmitter & Receiver
Enjoy optimum viewing angles with this
LCD double arm bracket.
• Maximum weight: 22kg
• Mounting system: ESA
50/70/100mm
• Tilt angle: 5° up & 20° down
Cat. CW-2814 Was $39.95
$
95
ea
HDMI Leads and Accessories
Wireless Indoor Consol Speakers
249.
TFT/Plasma Screen Wall Bracket
179.
Male to male connection
Cat. WQ-7400
Cat. WQ-7402
Cat. WQ-7404
SAVE
$20
12" 150WRMS Powered Subwoofer
69.
Share your favourite music with others all
around your house or entertainment area
without messy wiring. Our new 2.4GHz wireless
amplifier and speaker system offers unrivaled
flexibility and crystal clear audio signals up to
50 metres away.
• 2 x 30WRMS Power Output
• Dimensions:
Transmitter 70(W) x110(H) x 36(D)mm
Amplifier 590(W) x119(H) x125(D)mm
119.
This compact laptop power
supply will deliver up to 6A
<at> 20 volts and is supplied
with a range of adaptors to
Cat. MP-3467
suit most
95
computers. $
A great little multimedia device. Play movies,
music videos, or MP3s on your TV or in-car
monitor. Supports MPEG4, MPG, DAT, and
AVI format. Also
plays MIDI and
WAV files. Stereo
sound. Was $199
2.4GHz Wireless Amplifier
and Speaker System
Impedance Matching
8 Way Speaker Selector
PSP Home Theatre Docking Station
Plasma Screen Bracket
Specifically designed for 26” to 63”
flat screen monitors and TVs. This
bracket allows the screen to be
mounted a mere 10.1cm away from
the wall.
• Maximum weight: 75kg
• Universal mounting system
• Tilt Angle: 20° Down
Cat. CW-2816
$
95
149.
SAVE
$5
Suited for portable and
smaller TVs. The shelf width
is 300mm with a depth of
280mm. Its depth to wall
with arm fully extended is
550mm.
• Maximum weight: 30kg
• Tilt angle: Swivels 90° and tilts 15°
Was $42.95
SAVE
$10
Cat. CW-2810
$
95
32.
Ceiling / Wall Speaker Mounts
These universal speaker mounts are ideal for
surround style speakers and home theatre
applications.
Compatible with many major brands of
speakers it can be used for both
ceiling and wall mounting. Features
four axis, tilt and rotation
adjustments. Extension and
keyhole adaptors included.
Cat. CW-2808 Cat. CW-2809
$
95
$
95
ea
pr
11.
19.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
40 Channel UHF Pocket CB Radio
34.
1.5W UHF CB
Massive range!
SAVE
$10
This high-quality
light-weight UHF
Receive a free
transceiver is ideal
charger DC-1 car
for use in many
when purcha 036
sin
professional and
one DC-1040 g
leisure activities. Up to
8km working range with a hi/lo setting
to conserve power.
Cat. DC-1040
$
95
Was $89.95
79.
Ceiling & Wall Speakers
Cleverly designed, they use the cavity
of the wall as a virtual enclosure for
superior bass performance. Supplied
with integrated crossovers, attractive
white baffle covers and is sold per pair.
2 Way
Was $99
3 Way
Was $149
SAVE
$10
Cat. CS-2440
Now $89.00
Cat. CS-2442
Now $139.00
This stereo speaker is ideal for home
installations in entertainment areas.
It consists of a 6.5” woofer with
dual voice coils and a pair of 13mm
dual cone Mylar
Cat. CS-2445
tweeters.
$
95
69.
In Wall Centre Channel Speaker
The ultimate complement to an in wall HiFi or
surround sound system. It features 2 magnetically
screened 5” woofers, and a magnetically screened
tweeter. A well built crossover matches them up
precisely for the smoothest frequency response
possible.
Cat. CS-2444
$
95
169.
2 Way Ceiling Speakers
Here are two genuine 2-way ceiling speakers to
provide the outstanding music performance you
deserve. Features custom
designed crossovers and high
performance tweeters
matched to the woofers,
providing much better sound
reproduction over the full music
range.
6.5” Cat. CS-2446
Was $89.95
8” Cat. CS-2448
Was $119.95
SAVE
$10
Cat. CS-2446 Cat. CS-2448
$
95
$
95
109.
SB-2574
SB-2576
ALL
$29.95 each
Batteries to suit iPods
SB-2570
SB-2572
SB-2574
SB-2576
1st/2nd generation
3rd generation
4th generation
Mini
1600mAh
850mAh
900mAh
500mAh
This 'Plug & Play' console will turn your TV into a
games compendium! Challenge your intelligence
with the world famous sudoku puzzle (over 1 million
different puzzles) PLUS five extra games including a
memory test game. Supplied
with an AV lead and does
not require any software
installation.
• Requires 4 x AA batteries.
Cat. GT-3472
$
95
19.
Wake up to the sound of your
favourite radio station with
this sleek and stylish stereo
CD Radio. The unit features
an analogue AM/FM radio,
CD player, and alarm
clock with
Cat. GE-4060
snooze.
$
.95
• 240VAC.
69
LATEST IN HEADPHONES
Radio Receiver with LCD Alarm Clock
2.4GHz Wireless Headphones
with USB Transmitter
These wireless headphones
work brilliantly.
They use state-of-the-art digital
audio technology to receive
2.4GHz signals from the USB
transmitter (provided) which easily
plugs into a desktop
Cat. AA-2035
$
00
computer or notebook.
This pocket sized digital multi-band
receiver features phase lock loop
which enables you to tune to a
frequency with absolute stability.
It has an LCD alarm clock with
backlight, headphone output jack
and receives FM, AM and SW.
Cat. AR-1740
Requires 2 x AA batteries
$
95
(not included).
MP3 Stereo Earphones
Weatherproof Dynamo AM/FM
Radio with LED Torch
An economically priced set of
headphones specifically designed
for use with MP3 and other
portable music players.
This handy weather resistant
radio/torch is powered by a
manual hand crank and is the
perfect companion for any
adventure or outdoor activity.
Wind for 90 seconds for 20
minutes of use. The unit
Cat. AR-1773
also features a high
$
95
intensity LED torch.
29.
Headphone Amplifier Power Supply Kit
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
9.
19.
Ref: Silicon Chip Nov 05.
Enables you to drive up to
two stereo headphones
from any line level (1volt
peak to peak) input. The
circuit features a facility to
drive headphones with
impedances from about
8-600 ohms. The Jaycar kit comes with all specified
board components and quality
Cat. KC-5417
$
95
fibreglass tinned PCB.
17.
Cat. AA-2060
$
95
This unit will stream superb high quality
sound to both sides of the ear pieces.
Designed with a conventional
earpiece as well as an inner
bud style, it is a perfect
TM
match for your iPod ,
Cat. AA-2064
MP3, MPEG4, or CD
$
95
player.
Stereo Headphone Distribution
Amplifier Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip October 05.
To ensure the best possible
performance to the Headphone
Amplifier Kit (KC-5417), this
will provide regulated +/- 15V
and +5 outputs. Toroidal
transformer
Cat. KC-5418
required use
$
95
Cat. MT-2086
119.
Stereo Earphones Hi-Quality
Dual Sided Output
39.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Sudoku Game Console
CD Player with Alarm Clock
29.
Stereo Wall Speaker
79.
We've all got iPods these days and the
unfortunate down side to them is that the lithium
batteries are only good for a limited number of
TM
charge discharge cycles. Once your iPod battery
starts to give a less than stellar performance, grab
one of these easy to fit replacement batteries.
TM
Great for picking up second hand iPods at bargain
prices because the batteries no longer hold charge!
TM
• Includes tools to safely open the iPod and
instructions.
TM
TM
These speakers are a fantastic solution to get
quality sound to wherever you want to hear it.
Suited for applications where space is limited or
in locations where having free standing
speakers aren't practical.
In Wall Speakers
iPod Replacement Batteries
TM
Cheap short distance communication!
They operate up to 5km in an open field,
or 1km in the city. Lots of accessories
available, see our website for full details.
Cat. DC-1010
Buy 2 fo
$
95
r $5
Save $1 9.95
0
Stereo Earphones with FM Radio
A truly versatile pair of
earphones. It has a
digital LCD display and
a volume control for
easy adjustment.
Features an integrated
FM auto-scan radio
and requires 1 x AAA
battery (not included).
Cat. AA-2062
$
95
19.
High Quality Dual Sided
Stereo Earphones Lanyard
The latest dual sided output
technology. Sound is emitted on
both sides of the earpieces through
a conventional or inner bud style
earpiece, giving you a choice for
maximum comfort.
Cat. AA-2066
$
95
24.
3
5" B&W Surveillance System
VIDEO DOOR PHONES
Our range of video intercom doorphone systems will let you identify callers so you can choose to let
them in. Purchase the optional electronic door strike LA-5078 for only $44.95 and fit it to your door so
you can let your visitors in at the touch of a button.
Colour Wireless Video
Doorphone 2.4GHz
The internal unit has a clear 1.8’ LCD
display, all control buttons and
can accommodate up to 4
cameras which
can be mounted
up to 30m away!
• Package
Cat. QC-3625
includes: one
$
00
camera, monitor,
power supplies and mounting hardware.
599.
Additional CMOS Camera
Cat. QC-3626
2.4GHz to suit
99.
IR Door or Perimeter
Entrance Alert
Cat. LA-5184
$
95
49.
Professional IR Cameras
Operating down to zero (0) lux these units are
triggered "ON" automatically by a CDS sensor during
low light conditions and "OFF" when there is
sufficient light present. These cameras incorporate
high resolution 1/3" Sony sensor with 16x digital
zoom and built-in internal synchronisation. These
cameras are suitable for
permanent long range
surveillance applications
where there are varying light
conditions.
• 12VDC operation.
• Measures 110(D) x 195(L) mm.
Cat. QC-3286
$
00
399.
Cat. QC-3288
$
00
599.
Infrared Security Spotlight
The long range beam has a range
of 30 metres and will switch on
automatically
Higher
as darkness
p
spotlig ower
falls.
availab ht also
Cat. QC-3652
le QC-3
$
95
$249. 00 655
4
389.
This system has the capability of accepting up to
3 monitors. Features include panic button, silent
monitor, AV out option.
• Package includes: one
camera, monitor, 15m
interconnecting cable, power
supply and mounting
hardware.
Cat. QC-3606
Was $299.00 $
00
SAVE
289.
$10
Expand the system!
Additional receiver to suit:
QC-3607 $249.00
Visitor Door Chime with Counter
The perfect electronic entrance
guarding device. Utilises
infrared and microprocessing
technologies to create a reliable
and invisible infrared beam up to
20 metres. Requires 2 x 9V
alkaline batteries (SB-2423) or a
9VDC adaptor (MP-3003).
79.
The internal unit
features a 5.6’ LCD
colour screen with a
monitor feature so you can
see what’s happening at
the door whenever you
wish. • Package includes:
one camera, monitor, 15m interconnecting cable,
power supply and mounting
Cat. QC-3612
hardware. Was $399.00
$
00
SAVE
$10
Colour Video Doorphone
Ideal for when you
don't want to get up
from your desk or
chair to see who is at
the door. A compact
SAVE
monitor combining a 5.5”
$30
screen and a slim-line
handset. • Package includes: one camera, monitor,
power supply, 14m interconnecting cable, mounting
hardware and steel anti-tamper
Cat. QC-3620
camera cover.
$
00
Was $129.00
Professional Camera
with IR range up to 70m
Professional Camera
with IR range up to 100m
Video Doorphone with
Colour LCD Monitor
$299.00
Desktop Black and White
Video Doorphone
Quick and simple!
Perfect for the shop, office or home use.
When passed it gives a pleasant 'DingDong' chime which alerts you to the
entry, and records the customer in it's
digital tally count. Effective for up to 5
metres, this door chime/alarm comes
with a convenient clip-in wall mount
bracket or it can simply be hung on a
door knob.
Cat. LA-5009
• Requires 2 x AA batteries $
95
(not included).
29.
Slimline Strobe and Siren Alarm
This unit avoids the bulkiness of
conventional house alarm siren/alarm
boxes. Measuring 170(H) x
105(W)mm and only 50mm deep it is
ideal for caravans, mobile homes,
boats, etc. It comes with 2 x tamper
circuits which instantly trigger if any
attempt is made to open Cat. LA-5305
95
the unit when powered. $
• 12VDC.
49.
IP Camera with 6 IR LEDs
This compact IP can be used in a network and will
provide world-wide video coverage through
Internet Explorer. The camera incorporates a
built-in web-server and includes motion
detection software which
provides automatic intruder
sensing. The camera has six
infrared LEDs to provide night
vision capabilities.
• Supplied with mounting
bracket, software, and mains
power adapter.
Wirele
ss IP
also av Camera
ailab
Q
C
3398 $ le
Cat. QC-3396
349
$
00
249.
SAVE
$20
Consisting of a 5" B&W
surveillance monitor, two cameras, and two dummy
cameras, you can keep an eye on your premises.
The real cameras simply plug in with their 10m lead,
and the dummy cameras look identical. Cat. QC-3446
$
00
Was $149.00
129.
GSM Alarm Automation
Transmitter Receiver
G-smart is a GSM-based SMS transmitter/receiver
control system. It can be utilised as the heart of your
home automation or security system. With 2
on-board relays (expandable to 8) it easily connects
to eight different pieces of equipment such as the air
conditioner, central heating system, and electric
gates. Keep up to four different sensors under
surveillance and in the event of a security breach or
AC power failure, the unit will send an SMS alarm
message or an email to a PC. See our website or
page 294 of our catalogue for
full specifications
and application
areas.
Cat. LA-5370
$
00
699.
• Expand the G-smart to switch 6 extra relays to
control additional applications LA-5372 $99.00
Downlight Style CCD Colour Camera
This 1/3” Sharp CCD camera incorporates a
downlight holder for flush mounting on any
ceiling or flat surface.
SAVE
A perfect alternative to
$30
conventional dome type
cameras. It provides 0 - 90
degree adjustable pivoting
camera head for securing that
perfect angle. Holder is finished in
polished metal.
Cat. QC-3503
Was $249.95
$
95
219.
Wireless Audio Video Receiver
SAVE
$50
This 2.4GHz wireless audio/video receiver can be
connected directly to your computer. The
supplied software allows you to use
up to three wireless cameras
(QC-3281). Supports motion
sensing, remote internet viewing
and playback, automatic event notification and much
more. Was $249.95
Cat. AR-1835
$
00
Buy the AR-1835 A/V
Receiver and the QC-3281
Camera together this month
for just $338 save $50
199.
Wireless Camera to suit
The camera has built-in night vision
capability, a microphone for audio and is
supplied with a mains adapter.
• Camera measures:
Cat. QC-3281
65(W) x110(H)
$
00
55(D)mm
189.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Never miss your favourite TV
shows. This mobile TV Tuner will
deliver outstanding reception through
its dual diversity antenna system
which is designed to give you the best
TV reception available.
• Not available in NZ.
Cat. XC-4829
$
00
59.
749.
SAVE ON TFT MONITORS
Widescreen 7" TFT with IR Remote
A truly versatile
monitor with low
power consumption,
wide viewing angle
and NTSC and PAL
SAVE
compatibility.
$20
Includes remote
control. Ideal for use
as a reversing
monitor or to complete your in-car
entertainment system.
Was $249.00
Cat. QM-3752
$
00
229.
In-Dash Widescreen 7" TFT
SAVE
Mounting into
$70
a single DIN
space, it can
be retracted
into its
housing to
avoid
attracting
thieves, or
left out on display.
Accepts standard video signals,
powered by 12VDC, and includes a
Cat. QM-3753
remote control.
$
00
Was $369.00
299.
Touch Screen 7" TFT Monitor
You'll be amazed at the
high resolution and
audio clarity of this unit.
Features touch screen
capabilities that
enables
use with
a
laptop,
games
console
and endless other VGA operated
devices. Was $549.00
SAVE
$20
Cat. QM-3749
$
00
Roof Mount 7" Widescreen TFT
Keep your passengers
entertained!
This unit folds away
when not in use and
features two lamps so
you can mount it in place
of your interior light. The
monitor accepts standard
video signals, powered
by 12 VDC and
comes with a
remote control.
These neon tubes are housed in a tough acrylic tube.
You can mount the neon to any flat surface and
apply a mere 12 - 14 volts <at> 250mA to
power them. Supplied with a 1.5m
SAVE
$5
lead terminated to a vehicle cigarette
lighter plug.
• Available in Red
(Cat. ST-3142),
Green (Cat. ST-3143) and Blue (Cat. ST-3143).
Was $19.95
All Types (ea)
$
95
14.
Speaker Enclosures
Affordable, high quality
Subwoofer speaker
boxes!
Made from 17mm MDF
these boxes are
pre-carpeted with black
quality material and are
internally lined with
sound dampening
material. The enclosures are supplied
with recessed terminal posts, a pre-wired 750mm
length of speaker cable.
Cat. CS-2533
• Available in two sizes.
$
95
10" 20 Litre
12" 28 Litre
49.
Cat. CS-2533
Cat. CS-2535
Cat. CS-2535
$
95
69.
Avoid clipping problems from power under supply
with these high farad capacitors. They
act as a surge current reservoir for your
amplifier and other electrical
equipment. Featuring
recessed terminals to avoid
accidental shorts the units
come complete with a
multi-coloured LED display,
other illuminated graphics
and a row of blue LEDs.
329.
29.
2 Farad
Cat. RU-6752
$
95
Cat. RU-6751
$
95
99.
149.
This is the ultimate device
for transmitting your audio
to any FM receiver. Tune to
any frequency in the FM
Band (88-108MHz) in steps
of 0.1MHz. The frequency is
displayed on the LCD so you can
tune your car's FM radio. Great with
MP3 players, CD players and PDAs.
Was $59.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Car Amp 2x150WRMS
When it comes to
delivering outstanding
value for money and
award winning performace nothing
comes close to this amplifier.
•2 x 150WRMS <at> 4 ohms
•2 x 255WRMS <at> 2 ohms
•1 x 500WRMS <at> 4 ohms
Cat. AA-0424
$
95
249.
S HA D O W 3-Point Engine
Immobilising Car Alarm
Australia & New Zealand Standards Approved.
Most insurers require, as a minimum, an Australian
Standards approved (AS/NZS 4601:1999).
The Shadow meets and exceeds these
insurers’ requirements
by having the
required
standard two
internal
immobilising
circuits as well as a third external
immobilising circuit.
• Purchase Cat LR-8830 for 4 door and
Cat LR-8838 for 2 door to add central
locking to your car.
• Purchase SY-4070 relay and
SY-4069 relay base to give the third
immobilisation circuit.
WHAT YOU GET:
• Black box electronic module made to Australian
and New Zealand Standards (AS/NZS 4601:1999).
• 2 x433MHz Code-hopping
remote control FOBs.
Recognised
• High Security all-black
by leading
wiring harness,
Car Insurers!
including central locking
output wiring.
• Flashing dashboard LED.
Cat. LA-8970
• Installation and user manuals.
$
00
99.
Immobiliser Upgrade
1 Farad
Full Range FM Transmitter
with LCD Display
Cat. QM-3758
$
00
Be safe, be seen!
This revolving light has a super
bright halogen bulb to increase
your visibility in an emergency
situation. The heavy duty
magnetic base can be attached
to any metallic surface. Suitable for cars, boats,
trucks, or any service vehicle.
Cat. ST-3296
• Terminates to a 12VDC automotive
$
95
cigarette lighter plug.
Neon Tubes
Farad Capacitors with
Coloured LED Display
529.
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Revolving Signal
Emergency Light
In-Car Tuner and Dual
Diversity Antenna
Digital Optical Tachometer
Non-contact!
It measures up to 99,999RPM, and
can be used to measure RPM or
simply count revolutions. It has a
large LCD display, laser pointer, and
min/max recall. Great for the
mechanics workshop or
SAVE
handyperson.
$10
Was $69.95 Cat. QM-1448
$
95
SAVE
$10
WHAT YOU GET:
• Multi-Tone 20 watt
Battery Back-Up Siren with
security key shut-off
• Shock Sensor (adjustable
sensitivity settings)
• Bonnet Pin Switch (protects engine
bay from tamper)
• Supplementary Installation booklet
Cat. LA-8975
$
95
49.
Wireless MP3 Modulator For Vehicles
Cat. AR-3115
$
95
49.
Use any ordinary USB flash drive to store
your favourite MP3 files and play
them through your car's FM
radio. Was $69.95
Cat. GE-4030
$
95
59.
SAVE
$10
5
New Release Kwik Kits
Bass, Treble & Volume Controller Module
This module enables you to add volume
and tone control to any line level (1
Volt) amp. The circuit consists of an
input buffer a Baxandall type
bass-treble network and output
voltage divider type level control. It
will give up to line level out.
• Mono - Two required for stereo
Cat. KG-9004
95
• Recommended Box: HB-6013 $3.50ea $
Cat III Auto Range DMM
Battery Fighter® Chargers
Features large 24mm high digits,
Cat III 600V over voltage category
protection, 15-minute auto power
off with 1-minute warning beep,
low battery indication and relative
measurement function.
Was $69.95
Designed to fully charge and
maintain a lead acid battery at the
correct storage voltage without
the damaging effects caused by
trickle charges. Ideal for vintage
cars, boats or planes that sit for
months at a time without
use.
Cat. QM-1539
$
95
59.
SAVE
$10
16.
Simple 12VDC-240VAC Inverter
DMM with Capacitance,
Frequency and Data Hold
Ideal if you need 240V for a small appliance away
from mains. It says it will drive up to 70W peak but
we would rate it at 30W RMS max.
(Not really RMS as it is
square wave). In addition to
this kit you will need 2 x
heatsinks such as HH-8560
($7.80) and a step-up
transformer such as the MM-2015
Cat. KG-9006
($28.00) or, better MM-2016 ($35.00)
$
95
19.
100-200MHz VHF Converter
Expand your knowledge of radio! This
simple to build kit makes it
feasible to receive,
amateur radio
operators, marine radio,
television audio carriers, etc. The
kit connects in-line with your VHF
receiver's antenna avoiding messy
installation and receiver modifications.
• Operating voltage 9V DC, sensitivity
up to 0.8uV at 10dB S/N.
A great meter for the advanced
home handyman. Auto ranging
makes life easy.
Was $34.95
Cat. QM-1535
$
95
SAVE
29.
$5
DMM Temperature,
Capacitance and Frequency
$5
Features a groovy red backlit
screen, and a host of features.
Includes optical RS-232 computer
interface and PC software to store
measurements on your home,
workshop, or notebook computer for
later analysis. See our website or
catalogue for full specifications.
• Ltd Qty. Cat. QM-1537
SAVE
$
00
$10
Was $99.00
Will confirm the tranmission of a transmitter,
such as a cell-phone, garage door opener
or CB radio, within 10-100MHz.
Connects to the transmitter's
antenna and lights a LED to indicate
transmission.
• Generates no interference
Cat. KG-9084
• Operates from 9V DC
$
50
• Recommended Box: HB-6015 $2.50
8.
89.
P R I C E B R E A K T H R O U G H O N O S C I L LO S C O P E S
40MHz Dual Trace CRO
10MHz Single Trace Budget CRO
DIGITECH
SAVE
$221
A useful CRO for the busy serviceman
or workshop. Features
20Mhz bandwidth. Supplied
with 2 sets of probes. This
instrument is ideal for the
professional who only needs
to use a CRO occasionally. It
is also ideal for the dedicated enthusiast.
It features a powdercoated steel case, 75mm
CRT with 5mm square graticule, combined
tilting bail / handle. Scope probes 1 x, 10 x
are included. See our website for full Cat. QC-1910
specifications. Was $379
$
00
158.
20MHz Dual Trace CRO
A useful CRO for the busy
serviceman or workshop.
Features 20Mhz bandwidth.
Supplied with 2 sets of
probes. See website for full
specifications.
Cat. QC-1908
$
00
Was $698
399.
6
The ideal CRO for the
busy workshop. Features
40Mhz bandwidth and a
big clear screen. Supplied
with 2 sets of probes.
See website for full
specifications.
Was $999
Cat. QC-1901
$
00
699.
Quantities
strictly limited - call your
store first to ensure stock
is available - no rain
checks, no store
transfers.
SAVE
$300
10MHz Velleman Personal
LCD Handleld Oscilloscope
Cat. QC-1916
$
00
299.
SAVE
$10
Utilising the existing drink holders in
cars, this inverter is held in place
and doesn't need any modifications
to vehicles. Featuring a 140W
power output, this unit can run most
laptops and other mains equipment.
Cat. MI-5120
$
95
69.
600 Watt 12VDC to 230VAC Inverter
Deliver 600 watts of continuous power. This unit is
ideal for laptop computers, recharging power tools
or batteries, 68cm televisions etc. Also features fan
assisted cooling.
• 600W continuous.
• 1500W surge.
All our inverters are electrically
Was $249.95
isolated between the battery &
secondary voltages. Beware of
cheaper models that aren't!
SAVE
$20
The Velleman personal oscilloscope
is ideal for hobbyists, students,
service people, automotive
applications and general
development. Ask in store for full
details. Was $349.00
SAVE
$299
79.
Can Sized 140W 12VDC to
230VAC Inverter
True RMS RS-232 DMM
Field Intensity Meter
49.
Cat. MB-3602
$
95
Simple and accurate!
Useful for checking pH
levels in water, fish tanks,
swimming pools, and
more! Has a large easy to
read LCD.
• 1 - 14pH, 0.1pH resolution
and +/- 0.2pH accuracy.
• Replacement pH Solution
50ml bottle QM-1671 $6.95
Was $69.95
59.
Cat. KG-9128
$
95
29.
Cat. MB-3600
$
95
Digital PH Meter with LCD
Cat. QM-1670
$
95
A great DMM for the serious user.
Includes continuity, frequency,
capacitance, and temperature.
Was $39.95
Cat. QM-1320
SAVE
$
95
34.
750mA Battery Fighter® Super Smart
12V SLA Charger
1.25A Battery Fighter®12V SLA
Battery Charger - 1. 25A
SAVE
$50
Cat. MI-5108
$
95
229.
Heavy Duty 70 Amp Battery
Power Selector
This battery selector provides a
simple, solid-state solution for
wiring redundant DC power
sources. The independent
batteries are internally
isolated while the critical
load is connected. Current is
drawn automatically and continuously
from the battery with the highest charge.
•Rated for 6-48VDC negative ground
Cat. MB-3672
systems up to 70 amps.
$
95
•Heavy duty marine grade construction.
•Complete with stainless steel mounting hardware.
99.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Cordless Mini Hedge Trimmer
44 Piece 12 Volt Hobby Drill
Accessories include 6 piece diamond burr
set, 10 piece shaped stone set, 1 grinding stone, 6
piece sanding drum set, 4 piece drill set, 3 piece
wire wheel set, various polishing wheels, assorted
mandrels & collets, storage case
60
Drill als Piece
o
TD -24 available.
52 $59
.95
Cat. GH-1245
$
95
39.
650 Cable Ties - Mixed Can
SAVE
$30
3 Piece Gardening Tool Set with Pouch
Cat. TD-2450
$
95
34.
148 Piece 240 Volt Precision Drill Set
This hobby drill kit is one of the most versatile
around. Accessories include, 6 piece sanding band
set, 7 piece polishing wheel set, polishing
compound, 4 piece diamond cutter set, 3 piece
HSS cutter set, 18 piece
grinding wheel set, 5 piece wire
brush set, 2 piece nylon brush
set, 72 cut-off wheels,
assorted collets &
mandrels. Cat. TD-2454
$
95
79.
Small enough to fit in your glovebox or tool case.
Features a transparent fuel window, adjustable tip
temperature, and includes a handy stand.
• Length: 170mm.
Cat. TS-1110
$
95
• Requires Butane gas.
Use NA-1020 $5.95 150g can.
29.
Panel Mount Relays
Rugged construction with quick connect terminals
for easy installation. Two 30A DPDT
models available. One with a
nominal 240VAC coil and one
with a 24VDC coil.
24VDC Coil 240VAC Coil
Cat. SY-4044
Cat. SY-4041
$
95
$
95
12.
Single Stage 15dB Antenna Amplifier
At last! A project for HAMS and
anyone into RF. This kit will provide a
gain up to a respectable 15dB
over the bandwidth of
50-1000MHz. This covers
all TV, FM, marine and aircraft
VHF as well as
Cat. KG-9002
Police, mobile
$
95
phones etc.
Punchdown Block Connectors
1.
Cat. PT-5000
$ 20
1.
F Connector Seating Tool
This 3 way tool assists in the connection
of F type connectors. Includes flaring tool
for RG6 and RG59 cable and
pre-threading tool.
Cat. TH-1883
$
95
9.
Coax Crimp Kit
Heavy Duty Wire Stripper,
Cutter and Crimper
Designed for easy wire stripping.
The alloy steel can
strip all types of
cable from AWG
10-24 gauge (0.13 - 6.0mm), and the
wire guide ensures the correct
length is stripped
time and time again.
Was $25.95
Two sizes available:
Cat. TH-1878
$
00
139.
SAVE
$5
10.
SAVE
$5
Cable Tie Gun
Once you have wrapped the
tie around the cable you
simply slide the tail into the
gun and pull the trigger. This will tighten
the tie and cut off the excess to produce
a neat and professional finish.
Was $19.95
Cat. TH-2600
$
95
14.
ANTI-STATIC EQUIPMENT
Anti-Static Field Service Kit
Ideal for those who need an anti-static work area
when on the move. The mat
folds out to reveal a work
area of approximately 600 x
600mm. At one end there are 2
pouches, and a ground lead and
SAVE
$7
wrist strap are included.
At one end there are 2 more pouches
Cat. TH-1776
(200 x 300mm). Ground lead and wrist $
95
strap included. Was $41.95
Anti-Static Workplace
Desk Mat
SAVE
$3
Ideal for anyone who manufactures,
repairs or services sensitive
electronic equipment. It's about
3mm thick, has a hard wearing face
over a dense sponge rubber base, can
also be used as an anti-static base for
Cat. TH-1783
computer keyboards. Grey in colour
$
75
and measures 555 (W) x 290 (D)mm.
Was $16.75
13.
Large Anti-Static Workplace Desk Mat
Cat. TH-1827
$
95
19.
Cat. TD-2520
$
95
69.
• 62 to 177mm hole size Cat TD-2520
TD-2522
• 158 to 264mm hole size Cat TD-2522 Cat.
$
95
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
SAVE
$5
An excellent assortment of cable
ties packed inside a large plastic
container with screw lid.
This pack has the lot: 100 pcs x
100mm white, 200pcs x 100mm
assorted colours,
HP-1208
300pcs x 200mm white, Cat.
$
95
50pcs x 285mm white.
Was $15.95
34.
Installing wall and ceiling speakers or recessed
lighting is now a lot easier with these unique
adjustable holesaws.
These saws are
designed to cut
through plaster
board and ceiling
tiles and features
calibrated
adjustments to
make hole -size
selection a
breeze. The
blades are
carbide coated
and self
sharpening.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
SAVE
$30
The kit includes: one
crimper with 5
interchangeable crimping
dies, one 6.5” cable
cutter, one rotary coax
cable stripper, a
screwdriver for changing
dies and a plastic carry case which
houses all parts. Was $169.00
Adjustable Holesaws
19.
For use with standard 110
punch down tools
PCB mounting.
Two sizes available:
Cat. PT-5000 4 Way
Cat. PT-5002 8 Way Cat. PT-5002
$ 70
A must-have item for any keen gardener!
This belt pouch holds 3 tools securely into place. It
contains a total of 7 high quality
stainless steel
pieces including
a mini hand
trowel, mini 3
prong rake and a
multi tool
featuring a
secateur, knife, 2
SAVE
serrated knives
$5
and weeder.
Was $14.95
Cat. TH-2139
$
95
9.
Mini Gas Soldering Iron
11.
An easy to use,
fuss free
cordless mini
hedge trimmer.
Ideal for small
hedges and
topiaries.
Was $69.95
79.
This mat will cover the whole
top of a desk or work station.
The surface of the mat has a
slight grain texture, whilst the
underside has a checker pattern to
prevent slipping on the bench top.
Grey in colour and measures,
1m x 0.5m x 3mm thick.
Was $44.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. TH-1784
$
95
39.
Anti-Static Wrist Strap
It has an adjustable wrist
strap, coiled lead, and banana
plug/alligator clip.
Expanded lead length
approximately Cat. TH-1780
$
25
1.8m.
Was $11.25
8.
SAVE
$3
Adjustable Anti-Static Wrist Strap
This strap has an extra long coiled lead of 3m
extended. This makes it ideal for moving about your
workbench without having to unclip
SAVE
yourself. An elasticised wrist strap
$3
is also included, along with banana
plug/alligator clip.
Cat. TH-1781
$
50
Was $14.50
11.
7
WARNING
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS BOOK
Cat. BS-5080
There are 16 projects in total, ranging from devices for remapping fuel curves, to
$
80
nitrous controllers, and more! The book includes all instructions, components lists,
colour pictures, and circuit layouts. There are also chapters on engine management, advanced
systems and DIY modifications. Over 150 pages!
Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters
All the projects are available in kit form.
It features a two line LCD and easy to use pushbuttons. It
can be used to program the adjusters then removed, or left
Smart Fuel Mixture Display Kit
permanently connected to display the adjuster’s operation.
This improved model
Kit supplied with screen printed and
has an emergency lean
machined case, PCB, LCD, and
out alarm, better circuit
all electronic Cat. KC-5386
protection and an auto
components.
$
95
dimming display. Kit
includes PCB, and all
electronic
components.
19.
59.
Cat. KC-5374
$
95
27.
Independent Electronic Boost Controller Kit
Pictured with KC-5422
Intercooler Water Spray Controller
Ref: Silicon Chip March '06
Simply add these few components to the Smart
Fuel Mixture Display kit (KC-5374) and reduce water
consumption by two-thirds.
This can be used in cars fitted with factory electronic boost
control using a solenoid from a wrecker etc. Boost curve
selection is via a dashboard switch, and it is all programmed
using the Handheld Digital Controller KC-5386 (shown
above). Kit supplied with PCB, machined case,
and all electronic components.
• Suitable for EFI and engine
management systems only.
Cat. KC-5387
$
95
Cat. KC-5422
$
95
79.
9.
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Ph (02) 6239 1801
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Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
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WESTERN AUSTRALIA
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Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
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Ph (09) 444 4628
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Manukau
Ph (09) 263 6241
Newmarket
Ph (09) 377 6421
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
Smart Card Reader/Programmer Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip July 03
Jaycar has noticed a substantial increase
in sales of the KC-5361 Smart Card
Programmer Kit & ZZ-8800 Programmable
Gold Wafer Card.
We strongly suspect that
this maybe due to
persons unknown some
how using these
products to make
unlawfully generated
access codes for the
latest cable T.V. set top
boxes. We also wish to
advise that we
discourage this activity. For those legitimate
users, the KC-5361 Programmer Kit $49.95 &
ZZ-8800 Smart Card $7.95 are back in stock.
Cat. KC-5361
$
95
49.
Gold Wafer Card
Once again please be reminded
that we cannot accept any
responsibility for the use of
these devices in other than
legitimate activities.
Cat. ZZ-8800
$
95
Voltage Monitor Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip May '06.
This versatile kit will allow you to monitor the
battery voltage, the airflow meter or oxygen sensor in
your car. The kit features a 10 - LED bargraph that lights
the LEDs in response to the measured voltage, preset 916V, 0-5V or 0-1V ranges complete with a fast response time, high input
impedance and auto dimming for night time driving.
Cat. KC-5424
Kit includes PCB with overlay, LED bargraph and all
$
95
electronic components.
• 12VDC
• Recommended box UB5 $2.50
19.
10A 12VDC Motor Speed Controller
Ref: Silicon Chip June, '97.
Use this kit to control 12V DC motors in cars
such as fuel injection pumps, headlight
dimming or for running 12V DC motors in 24V
vehicles. The kit will control loads up to 10 amps,
although the addition of an extra MOSFET transistor will
double that capacity to an amazing 20 amps. Kit includes
PCB and all components to build the 10A version.
• Extra MOSFET: ZT-2450 $7.80
Cat. KC-5225
$
95
23.
7.
Annunciator Kit
Exclusive to
Jaycar
Ref: Silicon Chip Dec '05.
Need people to take a
number when waiting to
be served?
This electronic signaling
device has digits 75mm high,
each using 28 high intensity
red LEDs. Displays from 00 to 99 and
is incremented by pressing a
button on the separate
small control box. The
annunciator features a
built in piezo buzzer to
produce a short 'beep' each
time the display is updated. Kit
includes: PCB, Case and all electronic
components.
• Regulated 12VDC
Cat. KC-5420
$
95
59.
Tempmaster Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip June '05.
Need accurate temperature for a wine cooler or beer brewing heater? This project can be
hardwired to turn a regular fridge or freezer into a wine cooler by controlling the temperature
to make it suitable for wine storage. Wire it for heating and encourage fermentation while
brewing beer. Kit supplied with solder masked PCB with overlay, panel mount mains socket
and mains lead, machined case with screen printed lid and all electronic
Cat. KC-5413
components.
$
95
• Temperature range: 2.5 to 33°C
39.
T H E S H O R T C I R C U I T S LE A R N I N G S Y S T E M
Short Circuits is a great way to learn electronics. It is fun, informative, & you build great projects
along the way. Here are some examples of the projects featured in Short Circuits 2 & 3.
Sound Activated Switch Kit
Simple FM Bug Kit
Move over 007!
This little FM bug transmits to
an everyday 88MHz - 108MHz
FM radio, and works surprisingly well.
You can also use it as a low-cost baby
monitor. Kit includes PCB, and all
electronic components. Instructions are in
the Short Circuits 2 book.
PRICES VALID TO
31/05/06
Cat. KJ-8230
$
95
12.
Many applications!
This project simply closes a relay when
a loud-enough sound is heard. It
switches off again when the sound stops.
Kit includes PCB, relay, electret mic, and all
electronic components.
Instructions are in the Short Circuits 3 book.
Cat. KJ-8084
$
.95
12
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
SILIC
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(including p&p). Overseas: $A13 each (including p&p by air).
Method of Payment:
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05/06
uses . . .
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• (Not suited preamp or effects unit,
unless via a
Hum and noise plaguing your performance?
Longing for a DI Box that performs as well as a
powered unit but does not require batteries?
Here it is:
SILICON CHIP
Passive
DI Box
by
JOHN CLARKE
62 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
M
usicians and performers
often have to connect to an
existing PA system in a pub
or club, hall, auditorium, church, etc.
You might think that’s as simple as
plugging a lead from the output socket
of an instrument, effects unit, preamp,
etc into an appropriate input on the
PA system. But it’s not usually quite
that simple.
For a start, most musical equipment
has 6.35mm phono jacks, while most
“pro” mixers and amplifiers use XLR
connectors. Even if the incompatible
leads problem can be solved (why
is it that your lead always has male
plugs and their equipment has male
sockets?), even using a special interconnecting lead, there is usually a far
greater problem.
Hummmmmmmmmmmm . . . . .
There will sometimes, even often,
be a large amount of mains hum and
noise introduced into the long leads
generally associated with these installations.
So by the time the signal reaches
the mixer, which is the heart of a
typical Public Address System, hum
and noise will mar the performance.
If you’re lucky, it’s barely tolerable; usually it’s not!
That’s where the DI Box
comes in. Just in case you
were wondering, the term
DI stands for Direct Injection and refers to the direct
coupling-by-wire of a
musical instrument to
a sound system rather
than using a microphone
to pickup the sounds.
Apart from converting
from the 6.35mm jack connection to the XLR type, the
DI Box produces a balanced signal
output. The balanced signal is then
applied to the balanced input of the
audio mixer. Balanced signal lines
can greatly reduce injected hum and
noise.
The balanced signal cable has two
signal lines and a ground return. Pins
2 and 3 of the XLR connector carry the
signal and pin 1 is the ground.
The signal lines operate in antiphase to one another so that as one
line goes positive, the other line
swings negative. At the mixing end,
the balanced signal is applied to a differential amplifier which amplifies the
“difference” between the two signal
lines. This process means that any
siliconchip.com.au
Features .
hum and noise picked up along
• No power re
the balanced lines is effectively
quired
• Small size
cancelled.
• Rugged hous
One final feature of the
ing
•
Balanced XLR
DI Box allows isolating the
output
• Unbalanced
grounds of the musical instru“thr u” output
(stereo or mon
• Stereo inpu
ment and the Public Address
o)
tm
• Wide freque ixing for mono out
system. As every hifi buff
ncy response
• Ground lif t
knows, all equipment needs
switching
to be earthed back to the same
point. Otherwise circulating currents can occur in the earth system
In order to provide this high input
and large amounts of hum can be
impedance, a DI Box generally reintroduced to the system.
quires electronic circuitry to perform
For safety’s sake, both the PA system
the impedance transformation and
amplifier and the instrument need to
to drive the balanced lines. These
be grounded (or earthed – it means the
DI Boxes require power by way of a
same thing) – but these grounds can
battery, plugpack or phantom power
be many (sometimes many, many!)
from the mixer.
metres apart: a classic recipe for hum.
Our new DI Box is not powered.
It’s called a hum loop – and forIt uses a transformer to provide the
tunately can be easily remedied by
balanced output and the input impedlifting or breaking the two earth conance is not high enough for a guitar
nections.
pickup on its own. Of course, it can
be used with a guitar if you use a
preamplifier or suitable effects box
ahead of the DI Box. These units will
provide the drive required.
Otherwise, for stand-alone
guitar use, we recommend
the powered DI Box published in the August 2001
issue of SILICON CHIP.
The Passive DI Box can
be driven from any source
that is capable of driving a
9.4kW load at up to 1V rms.
This would include virtually
any output from keyboards,
preamps and effects units,
mixers, etc.
Speaking of mixers, the
Passive DI Box has its own
stereo mixing feature. If you
insert a stereo jack with stereo signals, the DI Box will
mix the two channels before
A DI Box generally does this with a
providing a balanced mono output.
switch that opens or closes the earth
This feature is ideal for connecting
connection. Some DI Boxes have a
stereo sources, such as from audioseparate ground lift input instead of
visual equipment and multimedia
the switch. In most cases, the DI box
players.
can be used with the ground lift switch
Note that the signal produced
open or closed.
through the PA system will be mono.
The SILICON CHIP Passive DI Box
To provide a stereo sound, you’ll need
provides all the above features. Howtwo DI Boxes, one for the left channel
ever, it does not provide for all DI
and one for the right channel .
applications – for instance, it cannot
be used directly with a guitar. Many DI
Performance
Boxes provide high input impedance
Performance of the SILICON CHIP Passo that the unit will not load down
sive DI Box is exceptional. During tests,
and degrade the signal source from a
it far outperformed one commonly
guitar pickup.
..
May 2006 63
Just input and output sockets, a couple of resistors, a transformer, switch
and an output plug make up the circuit of the Passive DI Box.
available commercial unit we were using for comparison, in terms of audio
sound quality and frequency response.
In fact, our tests for signal-to-noise
ratio do not do the unit justice. The
tests results are below the noise floor
of our equipment.
While the frequency response of the
commercial unit was very restricted
in the bass region (reducing signal by
-3dB at 250Hz, -6dB at 125Hz and more
than -12dB at 60Hz), our unit could
pass signals well below 20Hz without
any appreciable attenuation. Musicians
who have played with our Di Box also
remarked that it had a higher quality
sound than the commercial unit.
So you’d be much better off building the SILICON CHIP Passive DI Box
than buying some commercial units
at many, many times the price.
If you must buy a DI box (for example, to use with a guitar), be sure that
the specifications are suitable for your
application.
In most cases, the 12dB reduction in
signal at 60Hz for the commercial unit
would not be satisfactory unless the
response is tailored with an equaliser.
But why lose frequency response in
the first place?
Having said that, many higher
quality commercial DI boxes do use
a professional audio transformer that
has a wide frequency response. So
shop around and read the specs!
The circuit
The exceptional sound quality from
the Passive DI Box is because the circuit is based around a high-quality
audio transformer from Altronics.
While the frequency response of the Passive DI Box may
not appear flat in this graph, take a look at the vertical
scale. The full scale vertical axis is only 1dB above and
below the central 0dB level! The DI Box response is within
0.5dB from 20Hz to 20kHz when driven with a 50W source.
64 Silicon Chip
Designated the M 0705, this particular transformer has a 10kW winding
and a 600W centre-tapped winding
that makes it ideal for our DI Box
design. The transformer also uses a
Mu-metal shield to prevent hum fields
entering the windings. Two stereo
6.35mm jack sockets connect in parallel. Ordinarily, one is for the input signal while the second provide a “thru”
output for daisy chaining the signal to
another input. This “thru” output can
be connected to an amplifier.
As we mentioned, the DI box will
also mix a stereo signal to mono. The
tip and ring connections on the socket
are coupled using 4.7kW resistors for
this purpose.
A stereo source will not be shorted because of the use of a stereo socket and the
isolation of the left and right channels
via a 4.7kW resistors required for stereo
mixing. This would not be the case if a
mono socket were used instead. Note
that the stereo source will be shorted at
the ring terminal if a mono jack pluf is
inserted into the ‘thru’ socket.
The resulting signal is applied to
the 10kW primary winding of T1. The
input socket grounds connect to the
ground end of this winding.
The 600W secondary of T1 becomes
the balanced output, with pins 2 and
3 of the XLR plug connecting directly
to this winding. The centre tap of the
secondary winding is not used.
Pin 1 of the XLR is the ground pin
and is connected to the shield (shell)
of the plug housing. This provides
shielding for the XLR plug when it is
inserted into this socket.
As shown in this graph, the total harmonic distortion
(THD) for the Passive DI Box is less than 0.02% over the
frequency range from 80Hz to 20kHz when supplied with
a 1V RMS signal. The distortion is even lower with less
input signal level.
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s how to wire up the DI Box – compare this with the photo below. No PC board is used because the wiring
is so simple.
The common ground connection
between the input ground and the pin
1 ground on the output plug is passed
through switch S1. This provides the
ground lift (when open) or a ground
connection when closed.
Normally S1 is left closed unless
there is a hum loop.
Construction
There is no PC board for this project.
This is because there is no need to use
one, with all connections being made
with short lengths of wire.
Before wiring, the box should be
drilled out to suit all the components.
The two 6.35mm jack sockets are
spaced 22mm apart and require 11mm
diameter holes. We placed our sockets
9mm down from the top edge of the
box. This makes them sufficiently
high in the box so that there is room
for the terminals but not so high that
they foul the lid.
The XLR plug is located in the centre
of the opposite end of the box. Its 19mm
mounting hole is made by drilling a
series of holes close to the inside of
this circumference and then knocking
out the unwanted piece and filing to
shape. The XLR plug is then secured
using two M3 x 10mm countersunk
screws, star washers and nuts.
And this is what the inside of the SILICON CHIP Passive DI Box looks like: 6.35mm sockets on the left, transformer and
ground lift switch in the middle and XLR output socket on the right. We covered all exposed wiring with heatshrink tubing.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 65
Parts List –
Passive DI Box
1 diecast aluminium box,
111 x 60 x 30mm
1 front panel label, 100 x 50mm
1 10kW to 600W audio transformer
with Mu metal shield
(Altronics M-0705) (T1)
2 6.35mm insulated stereo jack
sockets (Altronics P-0073,
Jaycar PS-0190)
1 SPST rocker switch (S1)
2 4.7kW 0.25W 1% metal film
resistors
1 crimp eyelet or solder lug with
3mm eyelet hole
4 M3 Nylon washers
(or 2 x 3mm spacers)
2 M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
3 M3 x 10mm countersunk screws
3 M3 nuts
3 M3 star washers
1 50mm green hookup wire
1 20mm length of black hookup
wire
1 20mm length of red hookup wire
1 100mm cable tie
1 50mm length of 5mm
diameter heatshrink tubing
The Ground Lift switch is mounted
centrally on the side of the box. Its 19
x 13mm cutout is made in a similar
way to the XLR socket.
The earthing screw is also mounted
on this side of the box. Countersink
this hole for the countersunk screw.
The transformer is mounted on
3mm-high spacers and secured with
two M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
from the underside of the box. The
spacers allow the wires to exit from
beneath the transformer body. Countersink these holes. If you don’t use
countersunk screws here, you will
need to use some rubber feet on the
underside of the box.
The wiring diagram shows how to
connect the parts. Fit heatshrink tubing over the exposed terminals on the
jack sockets and the switch terminals
to prevent the leads coming adrift.
The jack socket terminals will have
to be bent over to provide clearance
between the terminals and the base of
the box. The switched terminals on the
sockets are unused and can be bent
over at 90° against the socket body.
The main terminals on the sockets can
be bent about 45° inwards.
The two 4.7kW resistors are only
needed for stereo mixing but at just
a few cents each, you might as well
include them for both mono or stereo.
Wire the resistors to the tip and ring
terminals and then join them to make
the mono connection to T1’s primary
(yellow wire).
The earth lug is secured to the side
of the case and wired to the switch
and shield on the XLR socket. Use an
M3 x 10mm countersunk screw, star
washer and M3 nut to secure the lug
in place.
Testing
The Passive DI Box is best tested
using a signal from an instrument (or
signal generator) and measuring the
output across pins 2 and 3 of the XLR
plug. Set your multimeter to read AC
mV, plug the instrument/generator into
the DI box and play the instrument.
You should get a signal reading on
the meter at about 100mV if the input
Same-size artwork for the DI Box
front panel. There is no front
panel/lid drilling required – all
holes are on the sides of the box.
is around 1V. Set your multimeter to
read ohms and check that the ground
connection between the instrument’s
jack plug in the DI Box and the XLR
plug at pin 1 can be opened (a high
ohms reading) and closed (a low ohms
reading) using switch S1.
So there it is: a very simple and
even simpler-to-build DI Box which
you’ll wonder how you ever got along
without. Just remember, you can’t plug
SC
your guitar in directly!
Specifications:
Input signal handling: ...........................................
Input impedance: ...................................................
Output Impedance: ................................................
Signal Level: ...........................................................
Frequency Response:............................................
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: ...........................................
3.5V RMS
9.4kW (stereo source); 14.7kW mono source
600W (nominal)
typically 120mV out (balanced) for 1V input
within ±0.5dB from 20Hz to 20kHz
-98dB unweighted (22Hz to 22kHz); -101dB “A” weighted,
both with respect to 1V input (see text)
Total Harmonic Distortion:..................................... < 0.1% 30Hz to 20kHz at 1V RMS input
Phase Shift Between Input And Output: ............... -7° at 20Hz, <3° at 100Hz, 0° above 1kHz
Dimensions:............................................................ 120 x 65 x 32mm overall
Mass: ....................................................................... 200g
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Direct Injection from a 70V/100V speaker line
How do you connect a signal from a
100V (or 70V) speaker line into an amplifier line input?
The question arose while we were discussing roles for the DI Box in the office.
But most people would ask “why would
you want to connect a 100V speaker line
into an amplifier line input?”
Consider two scenarios: in the first,
you’re installing a large-area PA system
which, of course, would use 100V speaker
lines to minimise losses in those lines. But
you’ve reached the power output limit of
the PA amplifier and still need more speakers to cover the area, possibly quite some
distance from the amplifier.
So you have to put in a second (remote)
system – amplifier and speakers. But how
can you supply it with signal?
Here’s an example of a second scenario:
at last year’s NSW Surf Lifesaving Championships, the carnival was spread out for
more than a kilometre along the beach. The
surfboat area had one PA system while
the rest of the carnival had another, with
two panels of announcers used to call the
various races. But the referee wanted the
race finals in one area to be heard in the
other – in other words, two independent
systems with the capability of being linked
together.
What to do?
Of course, you could run a coax lead
all the way back to the first amplifier and
use a “line out” (if it has one!). Apart from
the cost and inconvenience of such a lead,
that can cause problems of its own – not
the least noise pickup and line losses over
such a length.
When you think about it, you already
have signal close by – on the speaker lines
themselves – it’s just that the signal is at
too-high a level to use in its present state.
The level of the signal on the speaker
lines depends on the volume set back
at the amplifier so effectively, any signal
you extract will also be remote-volumecontrolled.
But how do you stop the 100V signal
destroying your amplifier input (which
it no doubt would if you connected it
direct!)? Fortunately, the solution is delightfully simple.
Before we look at our approach, we
should mention that one of these devices
is commercially available from Altronics.
Their A-4902 100V Line Adaptor has
a lot more bells and whistles than we are
siliconchip.com.au
giving, including a
volume control and
both mic and auxlevel outputs. It uses
a slightly different
(though technically
correct) approach
as well.
So if you don’t
want to build a 100V
line adaptor, have a
look at the Altronics
version – (www.altronics.com.au). (In fact,
this unit was precisely the solution used for
the surf carnival problem).
Commercial
alternative: the Altronics
A4902 100V Line – Mic/Aux Adaptor.
Anyway, back to our design: all we do is
attenuate the signal from the speaker lines
with a nominal 100:1 resistive divider, leaving us about 1V maximum at the junction. To
isolate the speaker line from the amplifier (and
so eliminate the possibility of hum loops) we
use a 1:1 audio transformer.
Like the DI Box, we use one of the highquality Altronics audio coupling transformers, in this case the M0706 10kW:10kW (the
5kW centre tap is not used).
The circuit is housed in a metal box (the
same as used in the DI box) with a 2-way
screw terminal block on one end for speaker
line connection (Altronics P2072A) and a
by Ross Tester
3-pin male XLR output socket on the other
(Altronics P 0807).
The only other “refinement” you could
add would be a signal on/off switch – this
could be just about any small switch –
eg, the rocker switch used in the DI box
(Altronics S3220) and the best place to
connect it would be across the transformer primary (ie, shorting out the 1kW
resistor, thus killing amplifier input when
the switch was turned on).
If you don’t mind a bit of double-dutch,
that means when the switch is turned off,
the line adaptor is on, and vice versa.
Construction
Like the DI Box, there is no PC board – it
is too simple! We mounted the resistors
point-to-point from the input terminals
across to the switch and wired the transformer leads direct as well. Note that the
centre tap (black) lead is not used.
Again as in the DI Box, connect pin 1 of
the XLR socket to the chassis (ground).
And that’s it. You can add a suitable
label if you wish (we did!) just to make
it look professional but that is up to you.
There’s many a gizmo in the average
roadie’s box of tricks that has Texta marker
or even pencil labelling!
SC
Point-to-point wiring is again used for our 100V-line to line-level adaptor.
May 2006 67
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
Improving the sound of
salvaged speakers
Looking to buy – or scrounge – a
secondhand speaker system? There
are plenty of bargains around
and you can often improve their
performance for very little outlay.
One area of consumer electronics
that hasn’t fundamentally changed
over the last 30 years is the design
and manufacture of speaker systems. Whether they were originally
connected to a record player, tuner,
cassette deck or CD player, all boxed
speakers use much the same technology. This means that the speakers
you can now pick up at garage sales,
the tip or secondhand are still very
useful, no matter what music source
you’re using.
But nothing sounds worse than a
really horrible speaker, so why bother
sourcing cheap or no-cost discards?
There are two main
reasons: first, there are
some very good speakers
out there just waiting to
be found and second, if
you have a half-reasonable
starting point, it’s not hard
to make some major improvements for very little
extra money.
This pair of speakers was picked up at a local
Salvation Army thrift shop for $10.
Buying speakers
In most cases, you won’t have a
chance to listen to a speaker that
you’re collecting, so how do you make
any judgements as to how good it will
Inside each box was a decent small woofer and cone-type
tweeter with a single capacitor crossover.
68 Silicon Chip
sound? Here are some buying points:
(1) Pick them up and feel their
weight. In nearly every case, heavier
means better.
(2) Detach the grille and inspect the
cones. The roll suspensions should
be intact and you should be able to
manually move the bass driver back
and forth without any binding (or
interference) between the voice coil
and the dust cap. Be wary if you cannot detach the grille.
(3) Either a ported or non-ported
design is fine but in the case of ported
speakers, the port diameter should be
large enough to ensure that whistling
or “chuffing” noises do not occur. In
other words, a tiny port diameter with
a large diameter woofer isn’t a good
sign. Very large diameter (but short)
ports are also unlikely to be indicative
of a good design, as they’ll be tuned to
a high box resonant frequency.
(4) Check the brand and any labelled
specifications (eg, impedance and
power handling). Often the specifications aren’t very trustworthy but the
siliconchip.com.au
better the brand, the more the figures
can be believed.
(5) Make sure that you will be able to
later open up the enclosure, either by
unscrewing the drivers or by detaching the back.
(6) Assess the condition of the
boxes.
Making improvements
Once home, the first step is to listen
to your newly acquired purchases.
Hmm, sound pretty bad? But what
specifically is bad? Is the treble overbright? Is the treble dull? Is the bass
lacking, or perhaps all one-note?
Try the speakers on voice as well
as on different sorts of music. In fact,
listening to the human voice is surprisingly good way of assessing the
mid-range response. In addition, PC
frequency generator software is freely
available on the web and it’s well
worth downloading a suitable program. This can then be used to drive
your amplifier and newly-acquired
speakers across a range of input frequencies.
If the speakers sound absolutely
awful, just chalk the episode down to
experience and go find some more! But
if they have potential, there’s plenty
you can do to improve their performance without much outlay.
Here are some of the problems you
might find and what you can do about
them:
(1) Problem: Over-Bright Treble
Cure: install a resistor in the feed to
the tweeter. Just try some different
value resistors and you’ll soon get a
feel for the changes that can be made.
An 8.2W 1-watt resistor is a good place
to start.
(2) Problem: Poor Treble
Cure: replace the tweeter. Unless you
fluke a direct drop-in replacement,
this is often most easily achieved by
cutting another hole in the baffle and
installing the tweeter in a new spot.
The old tweeter can then just be electrically bypassed. If the grille cloth is
dense and the treble improves with
the grilles off, replace the cloth with a
design that is more open-weave. (Just
go to a dressmaking shop and buy black
open-weave scrim fabric that’s easy to
see through when stretched.)
(3) Problem: Coloured Midrange
Cure: in non-ported designs, place a
loose fold of quilt wadding (or fibreglass insulation) inside the box. Aim
to fill about 75% of the volume.
Alternatively, in ported designs,
staple a thin layer of quilt wadding
to the internal panels, making sure
you don’t block the port. As with
grille cloth, quilt wadding is available very cheaply at dressmaking
supply shops.
(4) Problem: Poor Bass
Cure: in non-ported designs, fill threequarters of the box with quilt wadding, as described above. Also, when
the speakers are working hard, use a
moistened finger to check for air leaks,
especially around the terminal block
and the edges of the woofer.
In ported designs, try changing the
length of the port. Place a rolled-up
cylinder of thin cardboard in the port
and move it back and forth within the
port to effectively lengthen the port by
different amounts. Use the frequency
generator software and your PC and
make lots of listening tests.
The aim here is to reduce any bass
resonant peaks – say, over the range
from 30–150Hz. In most cases, the port
will be too short rather than too long.
When you have found the right length,
glue the cardboard in place.
The woofer and cone-type tweeter are
mounted on a front baffle which is
easily removed. Note the rather odd
port design and the large gap around
the tweeter!
Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without a
lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use bits
and pieces sourced from discards, sometimes in mini-projects and other times as
an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
siliconchip.com.au
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear from
you. Perhaps you use the pressure switch
from a washing machine to control a pump.
Or maybe you have a use for the highquality bearings from VCR heads. Or
perhaps you’ve found how the guts of a
cassette player can be easily turned into
a metal detector. (Well, we made the last
one up but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
Another oddity was the internal box
fill, which was rolled into a cylinder
and placed at one end of the box (in
front of the port?).
May 2006 69
A piece of scrap chipboard was used to close off the opening around the
tweeter and the port. This was simply was screwed and glued into place.
The tweeter was then re-installed from the front and the gap around its
rear magnet assembly closed off with sealant.
Some black spray paint concealed the blanking plate and the changed
tweeter mounting.
It’s easy to use a spray can to paint
the insides of the new port black, so
that no-one would ever know! Note
that it’s no big deal if the port is lengthened so that it protrudes through the
front grille – after all, several very
well known speakers come like this
as standard!
(5) Problem: Speaker Overloads
Cure: if the speaker is easily driven
into bass distortion, fit a 200mF nonpolarised capacitor in series with it.
This will reduce the amount of bass
being fed to the speaker and is an ideal
approach if you have other speakers in
the system (eg, a subwoofer) to provide
the required “bottom end”.
This also works well if you’re using
the newly-acquired speakers as extension speakers but still want the main
speakers to be powered at high levels.
Check out http://www.jaycar.com.au/
images_uploaded/crossovr.pdf for
the crossover frequencies that various
values capacitors give in systems with
different impedances.
(6) Problem: Cabinet Finish
Cure: unless you’ve got yourself a really
high-quality design, it’s usually not
worthwhile spending hours improving
The grille cloth was reinstalled and
the baffle glued back into place. And
the results? Comparing the modified
and unmodified speakers showed a
much more natural sound. All that
remains is to paint the boxes and then
these will be great for the garage or
for the kids.
the finish of dilapidated boxes. However, one quick and easy approach is
to give the box a quick rub back (or if
it’s a plastic finish, a wipe over) and
then spray-paint the box flat black. It
won’t come up with that famed “piano” finish but the poor surface will
no longer stand out and the boxes will
look quite neat!
Finally, note that the sound that the
speaker makes can be dramatically
altered by its room placement. If they
lack bass response, put them in the
corners of the room. If the bass is strong
and muddy, bring them out from the
corners or even try raising them off the
floor them on stands. Similarly, if the
treble is muted, raise the speakers so
that the tweeters are at ear level when
you’re seated.
Always try moving speakers around
– if you haven’t done this before, you’ll
be amazed at how much you can vary
their sound.
Conclusion
More internal fill (based on old quilt wadding) was added to supplement the
original fill, which was replaced more loosely in the enclosure.
70 Silicon Chip
You don’t have to spend a fortune
to get good sound from low-cost secondhand speakers, In fact, with just a
little work, you can often get them to
outperform many mini and midi-sized
SC
off-the-shelf systems.
siliconchip.com.au
NEW KITS COMING SOON..... Mid. May
K234 DC PUMP CONTROLLER KIT
This kit will drive our AC pump (PUMP2) (variable up to
400L p/h.) from 12VDC like a battery or solar panel. The
PCB has 2 surface mount MOSFETs already mounted,
you just fit the other components. Ideal for use with our
K009D solar charger & K237 low battery cutout kit. Kit
inc. PCB, all onboard components. K234: $16. Kit with
pump (K234P) $24
K237 LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE CUTOUT
This kit has a number of applications but was designed
to disconnect a 12 or 24V battery when the battery
voltage drops to a pre-setable limit. Ideal for use with our
K009D solar charger & K234 Pump controller. Req. a
small amount of fine soldering. Kit inc PCB and all
onboard components. (K237) $19
K009D SOLAR BATTERY CHARGER KIT
This kit is designed to efficiently charge 12V or 24V
batteries from solar panels. Simply turns off the charging
current when the battery float voltage is reached, & turns
on when the battery voltage drops a preset amount
below the float voltage. Ideal for use with our K234 pump
controller & K237 low battery cutout. Kit is supplied with
PCB and all on-board components.( K009D) $25
K235 PICSTEP STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER
This simple to build kit uses a SN754410 chip and is
designed for use with PICAXE or other
microprocessors. Features include LED output
indication. Kit includes PCB and all onboard
components.( K235) $19
K238 24 WHITE LED 50mm LAMP
This kit has a 50mm diameter PCB and is designed to fit
into a downlight fitting. Ideal for use with solar or battery
lighting systems Kit includes PCB and all onboard
components with 24 X 20,000mCd LEDs.
K231 LONG RANGE 2 CH UHF REMOTE CONTROL
RECEIVER WITH 80A LATCHING RELAYS
This kit uses 2 X 80A latching relays that only draw
current while changing state. The transmitter used for
this kit is our K190A (not included in this kit). The K190
has 4 buttons (A, B, C & D). Relay 1 uses button A for ON
& B for OFF, Relay 2 uses button C for ON & D for OFF.
This type of operation take away the guess work if you
can't see or hear what you are turning on or off. Kit
includes PCB and all onboard components including 2 X
80Amp latching relays. (K231) $38
K142D NEW UNIPOLAR (5/6 WIRE) STEPPER
MOTOR DRIVER
This kit is designed to work with our K142 series of kits
(see our Website for more details). To get the best
performance from this kit it is best used with our K142C
constant current driver. The kit contains PCB and all
onboard components. (K142D) $27
4-CH UHF RECEIVER KIT WITH LIMIT / RESET
INPUTS: This kit is almost identical in its function to our
K180B but is pre-built (requires soldering of 2 wires).
Has individual limit/reset input for each channel.
Combined with our TX8 Transmitter, this kit can control
any combination of four output relays in either
momentary or latching operation. Features inc. range of
~50m, indicator LEDs, & screw terminals for ease of
use. Receiver (K238) $30. TX8 transmitter $15.
(es5KG) NEW 5KG ELECTRONIC SCALE KIT:
This kit comes with the electronics
assembly (70 X 38 X 10mm) prebuilt end tested. All you need
to do is mount the electronics
assembly, buzzer, it's load cell
and connect to 3VDC. Features
include: 1gm / 1OZ. resolution,
metric or imperial, LCD display,
clock, countdown timer and low
battery warning. Load cell 12 X 12 X 80mm.
COIN HOPPER WITH COIN DISPENSING / COUNTING
$18 TMECHANISM.
his mechanism
was
designed as part of a vending
machine, it suits $1AU coins.
It has a 24V motor & gearbox
(all metal gears) & an optical
$12ea
switch to count coins. At 1.8V
OR
the motor will
start running, it is
3 for
difficult to stop
$27
the output shaft
(es20KG) NEW 20KG ELECTRONIC SCALE KIT:
with your fingers
(HOP)
This kit comes with the electronics assembly (141 X 46 X
at this voltage.
10mm) pre-built end
The two 8mm
tested. All you need to
gearbox output shafts turn in opposite
do is mount the
directions, they have a flat on each &
electronics assembly,
our SPR300 sprocket fits the shaft.
it's 2 load cells and
The combination of our SPR300 11 tooth sprocket & our
connect to 3-6VDC.
CHAINSP 80 tooth chain and sprocket set would give a
Features include:
slow & powerful output (approx. 15RMP <at> 24V or 0.96
1gm / 1OZ / 1LB
RPM <at> 2V). This motor & gearbox with chains &
resolution, LCD
sprockets could be used to open doors & gates etc. (see
display, low battery warning. Load cell 12 X 12 X 80mm.
our garage door controller kit K023C).Some approx.
voltage/current & RPM figures of the motor/gearbox.
(es180KG) NEW 180KG ELECTRONIC SCALE KIT: 2V 80mA 7RPM, 6V 100mA 30RPM, 12V 120mA
This kit comes with the
60RPM, 18V 140mA 110RPM, Overall dimensions of the
electronics assembly
hopper assembly: 93mm(W) X 126mm(L) x 126mm(H).
(103 X 46 X 12mm)
USED FLUKE 8020-B
pre-built end tested.
MULTIMETER... Limited stock!
All you need to do is mount
These well known, high quality
the electronics assembly,
multimeters have a 3.5 Digit LCD
it's 4 load cells and
display with all of the basic features
connect to 9VDC.
you would need in a multimeter. It
Features include:
has overload protection of
1gm / 1OZ / 1LB resolution,
transients up to 6 kV. Other features
LCD display, low battery
include battery eliminator jack for
warning. Load cell 7 X 29 X 35mm. $35
RX434A SUPERHETERODYNE RECEIVER MODULE: benchtop use. The 8020B is ideal
Pre-built superheterodyne surface mount receiver for troubleshooting circuit boards,
module which is crystal locked at 433.92MHz. It has a relays, cables switches, and for
high sensitivity, operates from 5V DC supply. It is finding intermittent shorts or open
designed for use with TX434A. When used with TX434A, circuits. User manuals are available
on the FLUKE Website. With new
the pair can give a range over 1km if powered by 9VDC.
but not original leads. (8020B) $33
Frequency:433.92MHz
K229 AUDIO / VIDEO TRANSMITTER / RECEIVER KIT
Transmit rate: 9.6KB/S
These kits (K229TX & K229RX) were designed to
Modulation: A.S.K.
transmit and receive video and stereo audio. The TX
Voltage:5VDC <at> 2.6mA
has been designed to be as small as practical. (TX
Size: 35mm X 17mm
(RX434A) $8
kit) 13mm(H) X 30mm(W) X
TX434A SUPER-REGENERATION TRANSMITTER
30mm(D). (RX kit) 17mm(H) X
MODULE: Pre-built superheterodyne surface mount
50mm(W) X 62mm(D) with
crystal locked 433.92MHz. 3-12V DC. When use with
connectors). Construction is simple
RX434A. can give a range of over
and the pre-built modules mean
1km if powered by 12V
minimal work is required and there is
Frequency:433.92MHz
no tuning to be done. The antenna
Transmit power: 10mW <at> 12V
can be as simple as a 31mm length of un-shielded stiff
Modulation: AM
wire or another antenna can be connected remotely via
Voltage:3-12VDC <at> 15mA
co-ax cable. An antenna such as our K198 2.4GHz TX /
Size: 14mm X 14mm (TX434A) $6
RX ANTENNA KIT can be added. This antenna kit will
increase the range of
NEW LED MR16 TYPE LAMP
These lamps are a direct replacement for MR16 halogen the K229. The K198
down lights. they will operate from 12V AC or DC at i s a 2 . 4 G h z
150mA making them ideal for use in solar installations. antenna printed
During May you can buy a ceiling gimble mount with o n a c i r c u i t
socket for just $2 with every lamp purchased (subject to board, it has been
tested with our
availability). (LED21W) $13ea
ADD $2 extra for a gimble ceiling previous A/V TX/RX kit
and gave good a good
fitting during may (GLED21) $15
image at over 100M. These
kits are designed to operate from a 9VDC supply.
$30
$35
(K229T)
$17
(K229R)
$33
***NEW SOLAR PANELS***
OZONE & NEGATIVE ION GENERATORS from $12
All operate from 12V-30mA DC..
Produce up to 10KV OUTPUT.
Info on Web Site..
To be notified the moment that these kits and other items
These could suit other
kits become available subscribe to our mailing list at
applications like
Electrostatic
Speakers etc.
New high quality polycrystalline solar panels.
IN STOCK ELECTRIC MOTORS,
Warning: Ozone destroys mould and germs and is used
BATTERIES & SPEED CONTROLLERS in water purification systems. Its concentration has to be 10W (SP10): $124
20W (SP20): $219
limited for humans. Research before using!
100W, 200W, 280W & 500W
For more info and pricing go to our Website. See our Website for more details.
SEE OUR WEB SITE FOR MORE
oatleyelectronics.com
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers
of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO BoxM
89
NSW 2223
ayOatley
2006 71
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
OR www.oatleye.com
siliconchip.com.au
SC_MAY_06
Remote Relay
By Ross Tester
This has to be one of the simplest projects ever:
it’s basically just a power supply, a relay and a
switch. Yet if you’ve ever had to safely switch
mains voltages, you’ll know this can also be
one of the handiest projects ever.
S
witching mains voltages is
pretty simple. All you have to
do is make sure the switch you
use is rated at 240VAC (or more) and
that it will handle the current you
expect to switch – with a little bit of
margin for safety.
Oh, then you have to ensure that
all the “bitey” bits are fully insulated.
And that the switch can’t work its way
loose. And that if one of the wires
breaks or works its way off, it can’t
touch anything else and make it live.
And that . . .
And what if you wanted to switch
240VAC mains some distance away
– say switching some garden lights
at the back of your yard from inside
the house?
Sure you can run mains cables from
the lights all the way to the switch
and back again but apart from the
expense, you now have mains-carrying cable which has to be properly
72 Silicon Chip
conduited, buried and marked with
locating tape so someone doesn’t put
a shovel through it somewhere down
the track!
Of course that means getting an
electrician in because you can’t
legally install fixed mains wiring
yourself . . .
It’s not quite as simple as you first
thought, is it?
All this assumes a mechanical
switch: one that is actuated by the
pressure of your fingers (or something
similar). But what if that switch needed to be actuated by something else – a
sensor of some sort, a computer output
or another relay in another project?
It’s now a whole new ball game.
Instead of a switch, you now need a
relay, rated to handle that same mains
voltage and current we talked about
earlier.
Here’s a good example: the famous
Dick Smith Electronics “Fun Way Into
Design by
Bill de Rose*
Electronics” books have quite a number of projects with relay-switched
outputs.
But none of those relays are suitable
for switching mains voltages. In fact,
there are specific warnings about doing so (apart from the fact that beginners and mains don’t mix well!).
The relay contacts in most cases
aren’t rated for 240VAC mains and
even worse, there are exposed tracks
on the PC board which were never
designed to carry mains.
If you need to have one of the “Fun
Way” projects – or anything like them
– switch a mains device on and off,
you need the project we are describing here.
As we said in the introduction, it
is very simple indeed: a power supply which will energise a relay if the
“switch” is in the on position.
That relay is rated to carry mains
voltages and it’s also rated to carry
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: when we said it was simple, we meant it! Just a simple mains power supply to drive a relay – and some form
of remote switch make up the project.
fairly high current – we’ll look a little
closer at this aspect later.
The “switch” can be any form of
device capable of closing and opening
the circuit. That includes a switch, a
relay or some form of switching semiconductor, such as a transistor – and
again, we’ll see how in a moment.
Because the switch is in the lowvoltage section of the circuit, it is
completely safe. So you can run a pair
of wires down the back yard – even
along the fence if you like – and they
can never hurt anyone. Importantly,
because they carry only the small relay
coil current (~60mA), the wires can
be quite thin, subject to voltage drop
over the distance.
The relay contacts are rated at
240VA and 10A – which, not coincidentally, is the maximum current
you can draw from a domestic power
outlet. The mains lead, too, is rated
at 10A.
But we’d be hesitant about drawing
10A through any “normal” extension
lead – we’ve seen too many melted
plugs and sockets.
Why the diode?
Most of the time, diode D1 does
absolutely nothing. And if you only
ever switched this circuit with a
mechanical switch, it isn’t even necessary. But if you switch it with any
form of semiconductor (a transistor,
for example, or a PC output), it becomes essential.
Normally (ie, with the relay energised) the diode is reverse-biased
(because the cathode is connected to
the positive supply), so it is turned off.
It’s only when power is disconnected
(ie, the switch is turned off) that the
diode briefly comes into play.
When the switch is opened, the
current which was holding the relay
coil energised suddenly drops to zero,
so the magnetic field around the relay
coil collapses.
This induces a brief but significant
The circuit
Now have a look at the circuit
in Fig.1. Mains power (240VAC) is
stepped down to a safe level (9V) by
transformer T1. This transformer has
a centre tap which is not used, so the
full 9V AC from the two red leads is
applied to the bridge rectifier, BR1. If
the 470mF filter capacitor was not in
circuit, we would have a DC voltage of
about 12V peak at the bridge output,
pulsating at 100Hz (double the mains
frequency of 50Hz).
The filter capacitor charges up to
the full peak voltage and tends to stay
charged at or near this voltage while
ever the current drawn is kept to a
reasonably low level. Therefore you
end up with close to 12V DC from a
9V AC transformer.
When switch S1 (whatever form it
takes) closes, current flows through
the relay, to switch whatever is connected to the mains output.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig. 2: the PC board overlay shows the components mounted on the top side (ie, non
copper side) as if in an X-ray looking through the board. Note how the board top
edges are shaped – these allow the lid to fit on the box. None of the external wiring is
shown in this diagram – this is to help you solder all components in the right places!
Compare this diagram with the photograph helow.
May 2006 73
Fig.3: follow this wiring exactly when
connecting the PC board, before putting it in
the case.
And never apply power to the PC board
when it is outside the case or if the lid is not
screwed firmly on. It is dangerous!
voltage in the relay coil with the reverse polarity to what was there under
power. You may see this described as
a back-EMF (EMF stands for electromotive force).
It’s called a “spike” and it can briefly
measure several hundred volts! Even
though the voltage is high (and you
can feel it tingle if you get your hands
across the relay coil terminals), it is
of such short duration that it is quite
harmless to us.
But it is not so harmless to any
semiconductor which happens to be
switching the device. The spike may
greatly exceed the safe working voltage of the semiconductor and can (and
often does!) destroy it.
So we include a reverse-polarity
power diode across the relay coil
which effectively short-circuits that
voltage spike, making it harmless.
Building it
The first thing to do is check your
PC board for any defects. What you
are looking for is under-etching, where
tracks might be shorted together; overetching, where tracks might be broken,
or sometimes holes which haven’t
been drilled or haven’t been drilled
to the right size. Fix any defects that
you find.
You’ll also need to shape two corners of the PC board with a file to enable it to fit into the case – this is best
done before soldering any components
on. Fig.2 shows the component layout
of the PC board.
There are only four components to
solder on, one of which is the relay and
it will only fit one way. The other three
are all polarised; that is, they must be
soldered in the right way around or the
project won’t work. All components
should be mounted as far down on the
PC board as they will easily go – but
don’t force them.
On diode D1, note which end the
band (cathode) is – it’s easy to get
right. Likewise, the polarity marks on
the capacitor: most have a row of “-”
symbols down the side closest to the
negative lead. Sometimes, though, you
will find capacitors with + markings
instead – but they too are pretty easy
to identify.
The last polarised component is
the bridge rectifier, BR1. It will have
either moulded or printed “~” (tilde)
symbols on two of the legs marking
the AC inputs. Get these right and
the + and – leads, which should also
Fig. 4: where to drill the holes in the side and end of the Zippy Box for the switch terminal block (left) and cables glands.
74 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Compare this photograph with the diagram at right. In this shot, you can clearly see four of the five cable ties we added
around wiring to keep it all together, along with the nylon screws and nuts which secure the two-way terminal block.
be identified, should drop into the
right holes.
The only two bits left are the relay,
which we have already mentioned and
the power transformer. It screws to the
PC board with M3 bolts and nuts –
make sure you tighten them well and
also use a star washer under the nuts
to prevent them vibrating loose.
The two red wires from the transformer (the 9V AC secondary) solder
to the PC board alongside the transformer, next to the bridge rectifier.
Switch wiring
The remote switch connects to the
circuit via a pair of spring-loaded
terminals mounted on the outside of
the case. To do this you will first need
to drill some access and mounting
holes in the case – see Fig.4 for drilling details. The terminal block should
be mounted on the case with Nylon
screws and nuts.
Inside the case, these connect to the
appropriate point on the PC board via
short lengths (say 70mm) of hookup
wire. Normally, using a standard
switch, polarity will not be important.
But if you are going to switch the relay
via a PC, transistor switching, etc,
polarity is important so you should
use red and black wires on the same
(Left): the input and output
mains leads (which are an
extension lead cut into two)
pass through cable glands
which grip the cables and
hold them tight.
(Right) the switch
connections, being low
voltage, use a speaker
terminal with wires going
off to the switch
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 75
The PC board is not screwed in but slides down two pairs of guides adacent to the corner posts. The edges of the board
are shaped to allow the lid to fit on. The final cable tie, added after the PC board is slid into place, is the one which goes
around all accessible mains wires – the one right in the middle of the picture.
colour terminals, with the red wire
going to position A1 on the PC board
and black to B1.
Fit short lengths of heatshrink sleeving over the entire length of each wire,
including the solder terminals and
shrink them on with a hot-air blower
or with your soldering iron brought
very close to (but not touching) the
sleeving.
Mains wiring
The kit will be supplied with a 2.5m
mains extension lead, which must be
cut and the various wires soldered
to the appropriate points on the PC
board. It doesn’t matter where you cut
the lead – ours was half way but your
application might require the relay
box closer to the power point or closer
to the other end – it’s up to you.
Start by drilling the mains input
and output gland holes in the case
(see Fig.4).
Then cut the mains lead where you
want to and remove about 70mm of
outer insulation. Take extreme care
when you do this that you do not nick
or damage the insulation of the mains
wires underneath. Remove the inner
insulation of all wires so you have
about 20mm of bare wire.
Fit the two glands to the case and
tighten them. Now slide the gland cov76 Silicon Chip
ers over the wires and then pass the
wires through the appropriate glands
(input to the bottom, output to the top
with the switch connector on top of
the case) but do not tighten the gland
covers yet.
You will find it easier if you pull
at least half a metre of cable through
the glands to allow you room to solder
the wires to their respective places on
the PC board. They are all identified
– just make sure you don’t mix up the
input and output cables or the Active,
Neutral and Earth wires: Active wires
are the brown ones, Neutral are blue
and the Earth wires are green with a
yellow stripe.
Push the bare ends of the mains
wires through their appropriate holes
in the PC board but before soldering
the mains wires in place, twist the bare
ends of adjacent wires together under
the PC board using a pair of pliers. This
gives them some mechanical stability
in case the soldered joint gives way.
Before soldering, check that you
have only twisted together pairs of
actives (brown) and pairs of neutrals
(blue). If you are satisfied that all is
well, solder the twisted pairs to the
PC board.
When soldered, pull the cables back
out through the glands so that only a
couple of millimetres of outer insula-
tion shows inside the case. Tighten the
gland covers which will then grip the
cables tightly.
The PC board is not screwed into
the case – it slides down a pair of PC
board guides, closest to two of the
corner pillars. As you slide the board
in, tuck any of the mains wires in and
make sure that none emerge outside the
case when the lid is placed in position.
Cable ties
Five small cable ties are fitted to the
wiring inside the case – their positions
can be seen in the opened out and
“assembled” photographs.
They’re not just there to make it all
neat – though they do that! The reason
for fitting these ties is to ensure that
any loose ends cannot move around
in the unlikely event that any of the
wires comes loose.
As well as a cable tie securing
the “switch” wiring (ie, from the PC
board to the spring terminals) we
also covered both of these wires with
lengths of heatshrink tubing – up to
and including the solder terminals on
the back of the terminals.
You might wonder why this is
needed, as these wires are in the low
voltage part of the circuit. The reason,
once again, is safety: because these
wires are likely to be hookup wire,
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list –
Remote Mains Relay
1 UB3 Zippy Box (130 x 68 x
44mm); [DSE H-5003] with
front panel label
1 PC board, code ZA-0017,
125mm x 38mm
2 cable glands, 4-6mm diameter
1 polarised spring terminal block
1 mains extension cord with
moulded 240V plug and
socket, length to suit
1 mains transformer, 9V AC
secondary (DSE M-2840)
1 relay, 12V (200W) coil, SPDT
contacts rated at 10A, 240V
(DSE P-8010)
1 1N4004 silicon power diode
1 W04 bridge rectifier, 400V <at>
1.5A (DSE Z-3304)
1 470mF, 25V electrolytic
capacitor
2 10mm M3 screws with nuts
and shakeproof washers
2 10mm M3 nylon screws with
nuts and shakeproof washers
5 small cable ties
Short lengths red and black
insulated hookup wire
Short lengths heatshrink tubing
2-core cable and switch as
required for remote switching
(see text)
Where to get the kit . . .
This project was devised and produced by Dick Smith Electronics,
who retain copyright of the PC
board pattern. A full kit of parts
(Cat. K-3041) is available from
all Dick Smith Electronics stores
and DSE online (www.dse.com.
au) for $34.80
their insulation is almost certainly
not mains rated. If any of the mains
wires come loose and happen come
into contact with the switch wires, we
want to ensure that their insulation is
more than good enough to prevent any
possibility of mains voltages getting
through to the switch terminals, the
switch or its external wiring.
That’s also the reason we use nylon
screws and nuts to hold the spring
terminal plate in place.
Finishing off
The kit should be supplied with a
siliconchip.com.au
Just some switching options . . .
Here we show three different possibilities for using the relay box (yes, there are
many more!).
At the top is conventional switching, using virtually any form of switch you can lay
your hands on. Or, as we said in the article, even twisting together two bare wires!
Next down is using a project relay circuit to switch this relay (as we mentioned, many
relays used are not mains rated – this is the way to switch mains using these relays).
You would normally connect as shown to have the circuit operate when the project relay
pulls in; however you can have the reverse with the relay box relay operating when the
project relay drops out simply by connecting to the “NC” and “COM” terminals instead
of the “NO” and “COM” as shown here.
The third circuit shows how to use a transistor to switch the relay box. With an NPN
transistor as shown applying bias to the base will cause the transistor to turn on and the
relay box relay to pull in. Again, this could be reversed by switching with a PNP transistor
with its base normally held down to earth via a resistor; a voltage applied to the base
would turn the transistor off and the relay box relay would drop out.
self-adhesive label; if so, fix it in place
and put the lid on the box. The four
screws are hidden by small pips. Apart
from testing, you have now completed
the Relay Box.
Testing
Don’t plug it in yet!
With your multimeter on a low
Ohms range, check to see that you have
continuity (zero ohms or close to it)
between the two earths on the plug and
socket and between the two neutrals
on the plug and socket. Check that you
have no reading between the actives
on the plug and socket and between
any pins on the mains plug and socket
and the switch spring terminals.
If you have the opposite on any of
these tests, something is seriously
wrong and must be fixed before powering up.
If all is well, plug into power and
use, say, a 240VAC bedlamp or other
240V device on the socket end. Turn
power on – both on that device and the
mains outlet to which the relay unit is
plugged in – and absolutely nothing
should happen!
Now short out the switch terminals
with a short length of wire and the
light should come on. Remove the
short and the light should go out. It’s
that simple!
SC
*Dick Smith Electronics
May 2006 77
Vehicle Multi-Vo
Want to monitor the battery voltage, the airflow meter or oxygen
sensor signals in your car? This versatile voltage monitor can do it
all and includes display dimming so the LEDs are not too bright at
night. It also makes an ideal monitor for a battery charger.
T
here are many voltages within a vehicle that can
be monitored simply by attaching a meter to the
source of the signal (or voltage) to be measured.
This can give the driver information about the operation
of various sensors and voltages within the engine bay.
When monitoring these voltages, it is not usually necessary to obtain a precise value of the voltage but the general
trend of the voltage is sufficient.
Our Voltage Monitor provides for monitoring some of the
most common voltages within a car. A 10-step bargraph
lights LEDs in response to the measured voltage.
With low voltages applied to the Voltage Monitor, the
low LEDs light and for high voltages, the upper LEDs light.
Voltages in between are shown by the middle LEDs.
Some sensor voltages will alter simply due to the loading
of a meter. Therefore, these require a meter that does not
present any appreciable load on the sensor.
For example, the oxygen sensor that is used to monitor
the correct burning of the fuel, typically has a voltage output
between 0 and 1V, with the mid-way voltages indicating
that the fuel is burnt correctly. A low voltage (near to 0V)
indicates that the air-fuel mixture is too lean and a high
value (approaching 1V) indicates a too-rich mixture. The
voltage from these sensors also changes at a rapid rate as
the engine management system continually monitors and
changes the air-fuel mixture to ensure it is running at the
correct (stoichiometric) mixture.
The SILICON CHIP Vehicle Voltage Monitor is easily set up
to monitor a nominal 0-1V range. It also provides minimal
loading on the sensor’s output.
Significantly larger than life size,
this view of the SILICON CHIP Vehicle
Voltage Monitor gives you a very good
idea of how and where things go!
78 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
ltage Monitor
by John Clarke
A typical response curve is shown overleaf of an oxygen
sensor for rich, lean and stoichiometric mixtures. The curve
is very steep at the stoichiometric position and covers a
voltage range that is typically 0.2V to 0.8V.
The stoichiometric mixture ratio is normally maintained
by the engine management system to ensure minimum
exhaust emissions when used in conjunction with a catalytic converter.
When the car is running you will see that the display will
move rapidly up and down this steep part of the curve as
the engine management unit maintains the correct mixture.
On engine over-run, the mixture may go lean. When the
engine is loaded, the mixture will go into the rich portion
of the curve to provide more engine power.
Other sensors
Other sensors within a car have a 0-5V range. These include airflow meters, MAP sensors and some later model
air/fuel ratio sensors. For these signals, the Voltage Monitor
can be set to show the full range from 0V up to the maximum of 5V. It is also possible to narrow the voltage range
that is measured and shown on the display.
For example, you may wish to monitor between 0.5V
and 4.5V. To do this, it is just a simple adjustment of the
upper and lower voltage limits with trimpots.
Other types of voltages that can be measured are those
that do not normally drop to 0V but vary by a small amount
from a typical fixed level. An example of this is the car
battery. This is generally at 12V but can fall to around 10V
when the starter motor is starting the engine and rise to
14.4V when the battery is fully charged.
When measuring this narrow voltage range we are not
particularly interested in what is happening below, say,
10V because it should normally never happen.
So in this case it is best to set up the metering so that
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: inside the LM3914 purpose-built LED driver IC.
May 2006 79
that the display is not excessively bright at night.
The circuit
Fig.2: the voltage output from the oxygen sensor follows an
“S” curve from 0-1V with the ideal, or stoichiometric, mix
part-way down the curve. The voltage actually varies up
and down the curve as the engine management system tries
to keep the fuel delivery system as efficient as possible.
the lower LEDs show down to around 10V and the upper
LEDs show up to say, 15V. This is called an expanded scale
meter and is easily set up with the Voltage Monitor.
The Voltage Monitor is set to measure one of the above
mentioned voltage ranges simply by selecting the correct
jumper link on the PC board.
Because of its versatility, the Voltage Monitor supersedes
the previously published Car Battery Monitor (Electronics Australia May 1987) and the Mixture Display for Fuel
Injected Cars (SILICON CHIP November 1995).
The Voltage Monitor also includes display dimming so
Circuitry for the Voltage Monitor is based around an
LM3914 10-LED bargraph display chip. This drives 10
LEDs sequentially from the lowest LED, when the voltage
measured is low, through to the highest LED when the upper voltage range is reached.
The IC gives the option of showing this as single LEDs (dot
mode) or as a sequentially increasing number of lit LEDs as
the voltage rises for the bar mode. In dot mode, two adjacent
LEDs may be alight at the switching threshold.
Refer now to the internal diagram of the LM3914 (Fig.1).
10 comparators monitor the voltage applied to pin 5. The
comparator’s positive inputs are connected to 10 seriesconnected resistors between the RLO and RHI inputs. To
make measurements of voltage, the RHI input is connected
to a voltage source, while RLO is either connected to ground
or an elevated voltage, if you wish to measure a range of
voltages that start above ground.
The resistor string sets each comparator at a different
voltage. For example, if RHI (pin 6) is connected to a 1V
supply and RLO (pin 4) is set at 0V, then each comparator
will differ at its positive input by 100mV. So the lowest
comparator will have 100mV at its positive input, the next
comparator will have 200mV, the next will have 300mV and
so on up to the 1V level for the top comparator.
When a voltage is applied to the IC’s input, LED1 will
light for voltages above 100mV. At 200mV, LED2 will light
and so on. Finally, LED10 will light at 1V. Whether the
lower LEDs remain lit or extinguish as a higher LED lights
depends on whether the IC is set to display in bar mode
or dot mode.
The LM3914 includes a voltage reference which can be
used to set the RHI level. This reference has a nominal 1.25V
Fig.3: this circuit can be set to measure any voltage in a car up to 16V.
80 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
between pins 8 and 7. We can derive a 1.25V reference by
connecting pin 8 to ground.
Incidentally, the current through the LEDs is set
at about 10 times the current flow through R1. So
if pin 7 is at 1.25V and we use a 1kW resistor for
R1, there will be a 1.25mA current through R1. The
LED current is therefore about 12.5mA. This current
determines the brightness of the display.
All this is shown opposite in the circuit for the
Voltage Monitor. RHI and RLO inputs are provided
with voltage via trimpots VR1 and VR2 that form a
divider across the 1.25V reference. The divider can include
a 5.6kW resistor if link LK4 is not connected or alternatively,
the lower end of VR2 connects directly to ground if LK4 is
connected. LK4 gives the option of selecting an RLO voltage
that starts well above 0V when the link is out or providing
an RLO voltage that is at 0.63V or lower when the link is
installed.
As mentioned, the current from pin 7 to ground sets the
display LED brightness. We take advantage of this fact to
include display dimming. Dimming circuitry is made up
using a Light Dependent Resistor (LDR1), VR3 and the series
10kW resistor, transistor Q1 and the 680W resistor.
It works as follows: in bright light, LDR1 has a low
resistance (around 10kW), so the base of Q1 is pulled
toward the 0V rail. Since the emitter of Q1 is only 0.7V
above the base, it follows that there will be somewhere
around 0.55V across the 680W resistor (Reference voltage
[1.25V]-0.7V=0.55V). This sets the current flow from pin 7
to ground at its maximum. Therefore the LEDs are at their
brightest in bright light.
At low light levels, LDR1 has a high resistance, so the
base voltage for Q1 moves substantially higher than it was
under bright light. As a consequence, Q1 is almost switched
off. Current through the 680W resistor is therefore minimal
and the overall current from pin 7 to ground is set by the
effective resistance still connected. This comprises the 10kW
resistor and the VR1, VR2 and 5.6kW resistor string.
VR3 sets the dimming threshold. At its minimum resistance, the base of Q1 will not fall below about 1.25V/2
because of the voltage divider action of the 10kW resistor
in series with VR3 and the 10kW light resistance of LDR1.
Thus dimming will occur even at relatively bright levels.
Winding VR3 for more resistance will set the base of Q1
lower at the bright ambient light levels to increase the
brightness. In practice, VR3 is adjusted to start dimming
as the ambient light falls.
Signal for the pin 5 input of IC1 is processed to keep the
voltage to within the 1.25V maximum range set by VREF at
pin 7. For the 1V signal from an oxygen sensor, the signal
is passed through a 1.2MW resistor to provide a high input
impedance load, filtered with a 100nF capacitor. Pin 5 has
a very small input current, typically 25nA, so there will
be less than 30mV across the 1.2MW input resistor. The
16V zener ZD1 protects pin 5 from transients that could
otherwise destroy the IC.
When measuring voltages above the 0-1V range, the input
needs to be attenuated so that pin 5 still only sees a voltage
within the 0-1.25V range. When measuring 0-5V, link LK1
is inserted so that the voltage is reduced using the 1.2MW
series resistor and the 330kW resistor to ground. The division by these two resistors reduces the 0-5V signal at the
input to a 0-1.08V range at pin 5. Similarly, when measuring
siliconchip.com.au
Fig. 4: here’s the component layout diagram with matching
photograph underneath. Take care when placing the LEDs!
the 16V range, link LK2 is installed to reduce the signal at
pin 5 down to 1.13V. This reduction in voltage is achieved
with the 91kW divider resistor.
For other voltage ranges, the value of the attenuating resistor will need to be calculated. To do this, take 1.25V away
from the maximum expected input voltage and then divide
this into 1.25MW. For example a 10V range will require a
nominal 150kW resistor (1.25MW/ (10-1.25) or 142kW).
The final display range is set using VR1, VR2 and link
LK4. VR1 sets the point at which the maximum LED lights.
VR2 sets the point which the input must reach before the
first LED lights. By removing LK4, this RLO level can be
raised higher by including the 5.6kW resistor in the series
string with VR1 and VR2.
Power for the circuit is obtained from a 12V supply. This
would normally be from a car battery via the ignition switch.
For other purposes, a supply from 6V-15V will be suitable.
Diode D1 protects the circuit from reverse connection of the
supply. The 22W resistor and ZD1 help prevent transients
from damaging IC1. The 100mF capacitor filters the supply
and also removes transients.
The 22W resistor also acts to dissipate power when IC1
is connected in bar mode (when link LK3 is in circuit).
In the bar mode the IC dissipates more power, so some of
this power dissipation is shared in the resistor instead. It
is not recommended to use the display in bar mode when
the ambient temperature is above 40°C and the supply is
at 15V. This is because the IC could overheat under the
high temperatures and power dissipation. The IC can easily drive the display in dot mode even on the hottest of
days in a vehicle.
May 2006 81
Parts List –
Vehicle Multi-Voltage Monitor
1 PC board, code 05105061, 79 x 47mm
1 3-way PC mount screw terminal block with 5.08mm
pin spacing
1 LDR with 10kW light resistance Jaycar RD-3480 or
equivalent) (LDR1)
1 7-way pin header (broken into 2 x 2-way and 1 x
3-way)
3 jumper shunts
3 PC stakes
1 50mm length of 0.7mm tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 LM3914 10-LED driver (IC1)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q1)
2 16V 1W zener diodes (ZD1,ZD2)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
2 5mm red LEDs (LED1,LED2)
6 5mm green LEDs (LED3-LED8)
2 5mm yellow LEDs (LED9,LED10)
it’s also advisable to check them with a digital multimeter,
as some colours can be difficult to decipher.
The diodes, Q1, the capacitors and trimpots can go in
next, along with IC1. Take care to orient the diodes, IC1
and the electrolytic capacitors as shown. Now install the
3-way terminal block and the two and three pin headers
for the link shorting plugs. Also insert the PC stakes at test
points TP1, TP2 and TP GND.
Finally, install the LDR and the LEDs. The LDR can go in
either way, but the 10 bargraph LEDs must all be installed
with their anodes (the longer of the two leads) to the left.
Depending on how you wish to install the display in
the car or piece of equipment, you may wish to set the
LEDs parallel to the PC board. This means that you need to
bend the LED leads over at 90° so that they are in line with
the edge of the PC board – see photo. Alternatively, you
can mount the LEDs vertically so that they later protrude
through a slot in the lid of a case.
Install the links (LK1-LK4) according to your application.
A table showing the link connections for the 0-1V, 0-5V and
9-16V ranges is shown on the circuit diagram.
LED colours
Capacitors
1 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF (0.1mF) coded 104 or 100n
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1.2MW
1 330kW
1 91kW
2 10kW
1 5.6kW
1 1kW
1 680W
1 22W 0.5W
1 500kW horizontal trimpot (code 504) (VR3)
2 5kW horizontal trimpot (code 502) (VR1,VR2)
Miscellaneous
Automotive wire, solder.
Note that our prototype uses red LEDs for LEDs 1 & 2
and yellow LEDs for LEDs 9 & 10. This because we envisage that the most popular use for this project will be a fuel
mixture meter, monitoring a vehicle’s oxygen sensor. In this
case, you want lean mixtures to be shown with red LEDs,
indicating DANGER for your engine.
For other applications though, say monitoring your battery voltage, you might want to have red LEDs for LEDs 9
& 10, because in this case a battery voltage up around 15V
indicates over-charging, another DANGER condition.
Installation
Construction
The Vehicle Voltage Display is constructed using a PC
board coded 05105061 and measuring 79 x 47mm. It can fit
into a small plastic UB5 box measuring 83 x 54 x 31mm if
required. However, our experience is that many constructors of the Fuel Mixture Meter and similar projects like to
mount the LEDs behind the dash, so we are presenting the
unit as a bare PC board.
Begin by checking the PC board for any possible shorts
between tracks, breaks in the copper and for holes that are
not drilled. Start by installing the wire link and resistors.
The accompanying table shows the resistor colour codes but
You will need to make three wiring connections to your
car. It’s easiest to do that at the ECU, so you will need to
have a wiring diagram showing the ECU pin-outs. The four
connections are: (1) +12V (ignition switched); (2) chassis
(0V); and (3) sensor or car battery signal. The car battery
signal is best taken at a point close to the battery for best
accuracy without incurring voltage drops across the wiring in the vehicle.
Use the car’s wiring diagram to find these connections
and then use your multimeter to check that they’re correct (eg, when you find the +12V supply, make sure that it
switches off when you turn off the ignition).
In addition, you have to confirm that there is a fluctuating
signal in the 0-1V range on the oxygen sensor lead (the car
Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
82 Silicon Chip
Value
1.2MW
330kW
91kW
10kW
5.6kW
1kW
680W
22W (0.5W)
4-Band Code (1%)
brown red green brown
orange orange yellow brown
white brown orange brown
brown black orange brown
green blue red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown red black yellow brown
orange orange black orange brown
white brown black red brown
brown black black red brown
green blue black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
red red black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
so that the lower green LED lights.
(3) Again, the adjustments will affect one another to a small
extent so you may need to re-check the results at either
end of the scale.
Adjusting the dimming
Fig. 5: full-size PC board pattern for etching your own
board or checking a commercial board.
will need to be fully warmed up) or that the signal coming
from the airflow meter, or MAP sensor changes when the
throttle is blipped.
Note that the 0V connection for the Voltage Display
should be made at the ECU or to a terminal that is secured
directly to a chassis point.
Setting up for an oxygen sensor
Links LK1 & LK2 should be out and link LK4 installed.
(1) Set trimpot VR1 fully clockwise and trimpot VR2 fully
anticlockwise.
(2) Start the car, let the oxygen sensor warm up and confirm
that the LED display changes.
(3) Go for a drive and briefly use full throttle. The end yellow LED should light up. Back off sharply – the end
red LED should light.
(4) Check that the LEDs travel back and forth when the
engine is at idle.
(5) If the end yellow LED never lights, even at full throttle, adjust VR1 so that it lights when the mixtures are
fully rich.
(6) In normal driving, the LED should move back and forth
around the centre LED. If the oscillations are all down
one end after adjusting VR1, adjust VR2 to centre the
display.
Turn the dimmer sensitivity trimpot (VR3) until the display dimming matches your preferences– clockwise will give
a brighter display at night (so you need to fully cover the LDR
to simulate night when you’re setting it!). Note that when
installing the Voltage Monitor, the LDR must be exposed to
the ambient light in order for the display to dim. The LDR
can be mounted off the PC board if necessary.
Note
In some cars, this Voltage Monitor will not work on some
sensors. For an oxygen sensor, it needs a signal voltage
from 0-1V, with the higher voltages corresponding to richer
mixtures. The vast majority of cars produced over the last
15 years use this type of sensor but there are exceptions, so
be sure to use your digital multimeter to check the oxygen
sensor output signal before buying a kit.
For other sensors, the output signal needs to vary in voltage. However, some airflow meters have a variable-frequency
output signal and the Voltage Monitor will not work with
that type of airflow meter. Again, check the output of the
load sensor with a digital multimeter first.
Also note that some modern cars run stoichiometric
air/fuel ratios all the time so the rich and lean indications
under acceleration and engine overrun may not be apparSC
ent on the display.
Setting up for a 0-5V airflow sensor
Link LK1 should be installed and LK4 out.
(1) Set trimpot VR1 fully clockwise and trimpot VR2 fully
anticlockwise.
(2) Adjust VR2 so that the lowest LED just lights on an
engine over-run (when you are going downhill in gear
with the engine slowing the car down).
(3) Adjust VR2 so the top LED just lights on maximum
acceleration.
(4) Repeat the adjustments, since adjusting VR1 and VR2
will affect one another to a small degree.
Setting up for a battery monitor
Link LK2 should be installed and LK4 out.
(1) Use a multimeter to measure the battery voltage. Now
with the engine running fast and with all accessories,
lights, etc, off, set VR1 so that the top green LED lights
at a measured 14.4V.
(2) Now stop the engine and switch on the lights. Wait
until the battery falls to a measured 12V and set VR2
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 83
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
Pt.2: By CLIVE SEAGER*
* Clive Seager is Technical Director of Revolution Education Ltd, the developers of the
PICAXE system.
PICAXE Goes
Wireless
Get your PICAXE projects talking over the airwaves using
the latest high-tech 2.4GHz XBee modules!
I
N PART 1 LAST MONTH, we des
cribed how to build and test a
pair of wireless data communications
nodes based on AXE210 project boards
and XBee modules from MaxStream.
This month, we look at some of the
more advanced features of the XBee
modules.
By way of example, we then learn
about some of these features during
the construction of a wireless light
and temperature sensor, based on one
of the AXE210 boards. As part of the
project, we also see how to receive and
log the data from the wireless sensor to
disk with the aid of the second AXE210
board and a PC.
Finally, we dispense with the PC
altogether and see how easy it is to get
a PICAXE-to-PICAXE wireless link up
and running!
XBee networking
Fig.1: here’s a screen shot of the XBee
Setup wizard, showing the correct
settings for board #1. Remember to
swap the DL and MY values around
when programming board #2!
88 Silicon Chip
As demonstrated last month, sending and receiving data between two
XBee modules is quite straightforward.
In those examples, we relied on the
XBee’s default settings.
However, consider the case where
more than one module is within receiving range. Unless we specifically
want to send a “broadcast” message
to all modules, then some means of
addressing the data to the intended
recipient is required.
This is where the XBee’s intelligent
networking features come into play.
For a start, each module is factory programmed with a unique serial number,
allowing it to be explicitly addressed.
In addition, each XBee module can
be identified with a programmable
“nickname” for ease of use.
Other powerful networking features include the ability to arrange
modules into groups, or “private
area networks” (PANs). By assigning
a common group ID to all members,
modules not part of that group are
automatically excluded.
So how do you set an XBee module’s nickname or group ID? Well
for modules connected to a PC, it’s
quite straightforward; you’d use the
Programming Editor’s “XBee Setup”
wizard. We’ll investigate this method
in more detail shortly.
You can also set these parameters
using a microcontroller such as our
PICAXE-18X. Although we don’t cover
this method here, it’s simply a matter
of sending the appropriate commands
to the XBee module before sending or
receiving data over the radio link.
To do this, the module is first placed
in command mode by sending a special sequence of characters. Once in
command mode, the command(s)
and any other parameters (such as
the nickname mentioned earlier) are
sent. A final “exit” command returns
the module to idle mode, ready to
send and/or received data over the
airwaves.
siliconchip.com.au
Table 1: Module Settings
Parameter
Board #1
Board #2
Baud rate <BD>
2400
2400
Broadcast
channel <CH>
C
C
Network group
<ID>
3332
3332
Destination
nickname <DL>
4321
1234
My nickname
<MY>
1234
4321
Before continuing, we strongly recommend that you download and
review the XBee datasheet, available
from www.maxstream.net. There you
will find a detailed description of the
XBee’s networking features and the
various commands needed to make
them work.
In the following project examples,
we’ll refer to a subset of the XBee’s
commands and their related terms.
An informative summary of these is
given in Table 2.
Putting it into practice
If all the addressing information
sounds a bit confusing, don’t worry – it
should become clearer with a couple
of examples! In this first of these, we
will wire up a temperature sensor and
a light dependent resistor (LDR) to the
PICAXE chip on one of the AXE210
Connect boards. We’ll then transmit
data gathered from the sensors via the
on-board XBee module to a second
XBee module connected to a computer,
where is can be viewed on-screen or
logged to disk.
This example uses “nickname”
(short) addressing. We’ve arbitrarily
chosen address “1234” for board #1
and “4321” for board #2, so let’s begin
by programming these addresses into
the two XBee modules.
Initially, we’ll configure both boards
for “PC to XBee interface” use (mode
#2), as described last month. To do
this, insert the MAX3232 chip into
its 16-pin socket on each AXE210
Connect board (remove any PICAXE
chip) and make sure jumper J1 is in
the “top” position).
Next, start the PICAXE Programming
Editor and open the “XBee Setup” window by selecting PICAXE -> Wizards
-> AXE210 PICAXE Connect from the
toolbar. The settings required for each
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: light and temperature sensors are wired to board #1 for the first
project. This simplified circuit shows the connections, made via the row
of solder pads next to the serial socket.
Table 2: Introduction To XBee Buzzwords
Broadcast Channel <CH>
XBee modules can communicate on 16 different “broadcast channels”. All XBee modules
in the same network must share the same channel number. Different channels can be
used for different networks for privacy reasons or to reduce interference. In addition,
switching channels can sometimes be an effective means of reducing interference from
competing transmitters, such as computer WiFi networks, microwave ovens and cordless telephones.
Baud Rate <BD>
This is the data rate on the XBee serial interface (ie, between the XBee and PICAXE or
computer). When using a PICAXE micro, choose a baud rate of 2400 for maximum compatibility. Although slow by modern standards, this rate is adequate for most projects.
Network Group <ID>
XBee modules can be arranged in network groups (also called “Personal Area Networks”,
or “PANs”). Each module will only respond to others in its group, as defined by a 16-bit
ID number.
Serial Number <SH> <SL>
Each XBee module has a unique, factory-assigned 64-bit serial number (also called a
“long address”). The serial number is printed on the bottom of the module and obviously
cannot be changed. Data can be addressed to a specific device by including its 64-bit
serial number.
Nickname <MY>
Optionally, an XBee module can be addressed by its “nickname” (also called a “short
address”) rather than by serial number. Nicknames have the advantage of being userprogrammable and are only 16-bits long – so they consume less memory in a PICAXE.
Using this method of addressing, any module in a network can be replaced with a new
unit (which would have a different serial number) simply by programming it with the existing nickname.
module are shown in Table 1.
As you can see, all of the settings
are the same, apart from the “my nickname” and “destination nickname”
values, which have been swapped.
This allows the two modules to correctly identify each other. Fig.1 shows
a screen shot of the settings for the
XBee module in board #1; remember
to swap the DL and MY values around
when programming board #2!
After altering any parameter, note
that the associated “Write” button must
be clicked otherwise your changes
May 2006 89
XBee Communications Checklist
Fig.3: once you’ve fitted the sensors
and downloaded the program in
Listing 1, the board will immediately
begin transmitting its data. Here’s
the result, as received by the second
board and displayed in the Editor’s
terminal window.
Fig.4: data gathered from the sensors
can be saved to disk with this
excellent freeware RS232 logging
program from Eltima. Be sure to alter
the serial port options to suit the
PICAXE system.
will not be saved. Once you’ve configured both boards, it’s a good idea to
perform a ping test to verify that the
units are in fact communicating. Details of how to do this test were given
in last month’s article.
Light & temperature sensor
We’ve chosen board #1 to operate
as the remote temperature and lightsensing node, so remove the MAX3232
chip and plug the PICAXE-18X into its
18-pin socket. This is the “PICAXE to
XBee interface” configuration (mode
#1) described last month.
Next, wire a light-dependent resistor (LDR) and DS18B20 temperature
90 Silicon Chip
(1)
All modules must use the same baud rate (recommended).
(2)
All modules must be on the same broadcast channel.
(3)
All modules must be in the same network group.
(4)
An XBee module can be configured to transmit to:
• any other module,
• a module(s) with a specific nickname, or
• a specific module, using its 64-bit serial number.
(5)
An XBee module can be configured to receive data:
• from any other module,
• only when its nickname is used, or
• only when its 64-bit serial number is used.
sensor to input0 and input7 of the
PICAXE, as shown in Fig.2. A row of
solder pads along the top of the board
provides easy access to the port input
pins, as well as +5V and ground.
As the circuit is extremely simple,
it could be wired “point-to-point”
with light gauge hook-up wire. Alternatively, you could use a small
solderless breadboard for the job; see
Pt.3 of the “PICAXE in Schools” series,
published in July 2005 for ideas on
breadboard use.
Now connect board #1 to your
computer and download the program
shown in Listing 1 into the PICAXE
chip. The “init” section of the program
sets the serial pin high and then waits
for 100ms. This gives the XBee time
to wake up. The main loop then reads
the light value (readadc on input0)
and temperature value (readtemp on
input1) and transmits the data every
second.
Disconnect board #1 from the computer and connect board #2 (fitted
with a MAX3232). The data being
transmitted by board #1 should now
be displayed in two columns in the
Terminal window (see Fig.3) – it’s
that simple!
Logging data
PICAXE users often ask for serial
datalogging software to allow readings
from a project like this to be stored in
a computer file, so that the data can
be analysed later. Our favourite piece
of software to do this is “RS232 Data
Logger” from Eltima Software (www.
eltima.com), as it’s free and very easy
to use.
To use the RS232 Data Logger, just
highlight the COM port of interest,
enter the filename and select the
appropriate serial port options (see
Fig.4). All you then need to do is click
on the “Start logging” button!
Once the logging is complete, click
on the “Stop logging” button. The file
created can then be opened in Excel
and many other applications, depending on your requirements.
Light and temperature warning
This second project demonstrates
wireless PICAXE-to-PICAXE communication. Board #1 remains unchanged, while board #2 must be fitted
with a PICAXE chip and two LEDs.
These will be used to indicate the state
of the temperature and light readings
received from board #1.
Begin by fitting the PICAXE chip to
board #2 (don’t forget to remove the
MAX3232!). The two LEDs are connected to output0 and output1 of the
PICAXE, as shown in Fig.5. A row of
solder pads along the bottom of the
board provides easy access to the port
output pins and ground.
That done, connect board #1 to
your computer and download the new
program shown in Listing 2. As you
can see, we no longer have the “#”
character before the variable names,
because we are now transmitting raw
byte data, rather than ASCII characters.
Two “$55” characters also precede
each transmission; this is a simple
means of ensuring that the receiver
accepts only valid data.
Now connect board #2 to your computer and download the receiving program in Listing 3. This program waits
for valid data from the transmitter and
then switches the LEDs according to
the predefined temperature and light
threshold values.
Initially, the debug command can
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List For
Project Examples
Fig.5: two LEDs
and their current
limiting resistors
are connected to
board #2 for the
second project. The
connections are
made via the row of
solder pads situated
between the two
reset switches.
1 DS18B20 digital temperature
sensor
1 light-dependent resistor (LDR)
2 3mm or 5mm LEDs
light-duty hook-up wire
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
1 10kW
2 330W
1 4.7kW
The temperature sensor (Part No.
DS18B20) and LDR (Part No.
SEN002) are available from MicroZed Computers, phone 1300
735 420 or browse to www.microzed.com.au
be used to display the received values
on-screen. As shown, the program
uses “40” as the light threshold value
and “20” as the temperature threshold. You may need to tweak these
slightly, depending on your ambient
conditions.
Reducing power consumption
If you are designing your own
project based on the AXE210, you
are likely to be considering batteries as the power source. Two simple
improvements to the project board
are immediately obvious. The first is
to power the whole circuit from a 3V
battery pack, allowing you to bypass
the two relatively inefficient voltage
regulators.
Of course, you’ll need to disable the
two voltage divider circuits on output6
& output7 when the PICAXE is running
on the lower 3V supply. If you’ve already built the boards, then the easiest
way to achieve this is to remove one
10kW resistor (the one connected to
0V) from each divider string.
You can also use the “sleep” function of the XBee module to reduce
power consumption. By installing
jumper J4 on the board, the SLEEP pin
of the XBee module is connected to
output6 of the PICAXE chip. This then
allows you to place the XBee module
in low-power sleep mode with a low
command and wake it up when needed
with a high command.
Note that to allow the XBee module
to enter low power mode using the
external SLEEP input, you must first
configure it to do so via the advanced
siliconchip.com.au
Program Listings
settings in the XBee Setup wizard.
Click the “>” button to see the advanced settings.
You’ll note that two pin-controlled
options are available under the “Set
Sleep Mode” heading – “Pin Doze”
and “Pin Hibernate”. The difference
between these two options is summarised as follows:
Option
Current Drain Wakeup Time
Pin Doze
<50mA
2ms
Pin Hibernate <10mA
13.2ms
Increasing range
Need more range? A higher-powered
version of the XBee module called the
“XBee Pro” is also available. It boasts a
transmit power of 100mW, versus the
1mW of the standard XBee. The two
modules are pin-for-pin compatible, so
no changes are required to the AXE210
board to use the uprated module.
But before spending more money
on the “Pro” module, check out Stan
Swan’s 2.4GHz gain antennas in this
issue. They cost virtually nothing, are
fun to build and can increase range by
two times or more!
Summary
The XBee modules make serial
communication between PICAXE
projects a breeze. Additionally, their
range can be increased significantly for
little cost using home-brew antennas.
For more information on the XBee
modules, point your browser to www.
SC
maxstream.net
Listing 1
symbol TAB = 9
init:
high 7
pause 100
serout 7, T2400, ("Light",TAB,"Temp",CR,LF)
main:
readadc 0,b0
readtemp 1,b1
serout 7, T2400, ( #b0,TAB,#b1,CR,LF)
pause 1000
goto main
Listing 2
init:
high 7
pause 100
main:
readadc 0,b0
readtemp 1,b1
serout 7, T2400, ($55,$55,b0, b1)
pause 1000
goto main
Listing 3
main:
serin 7, T2400, ($55,$55),b0, b1
debug
test_LDR:
if b0 > 40 then LDR_high
low 0
goto test_temp
LDR_high:
high 0
test_temp:
if b1 > 20 then temp_high
temp_low low 1
goto main
temp_high:
high 1
goto main
May 2006 91
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Telelink’s New Transmitter/Receiver Range is RoHS Compliant
With RoHS (Restriction on Hazardous Substances) rules about to come
into effect in Europe, Telelink Communications has introduced a new range
of compliant 484MHz equipment from
Circuit Design Inc (Japan) which meets
the directive.
Jack Chomley of Telelink (Australian distributors of Circuit Design Inc
equipment) said that many of his customers were building equipment for
the international market and anything
incorporating non-RoHS components
would not be able to be sold into Europe from now on.
“Many other countries expected to
follow suit within the near future,” he
said. “Manufacturers better get used to
the new directive or they’ll lose any
chance of exporting their products.”
The features of CDP-TX-02E-R &
CDP-RX-02E-R are as follows.
• R&TTE and RoHS compliant radio
modules
• Class 1 receiver supported by high
reliability
• Blocking or desensitisation: 84dB
(All)
• Adjacent channel selectivity – in
band: 60dB (25 kHz channel spacing)
• Adjacent band selectivity: 60dB
• 1 mW/10 mW RF output selection
• 25kHz step, 32 multi-channels
• A transmission circuit structure that
is highly resistant to reflection
• Improved shock and vibration resistance
• Uses a custom SAW filter to avoid
radio interference from other radio
equipment
• High receiver sensitivity using
double superheterodyne receiver
circuits: -120dBm (12 dB SINAD).
Contact:
Telelink Communications
PO Box 5457, Nth Rockhampton, Qld 4702
Tel: (07) 4934 0413 Fax: (07) 4934 0311
Website: telelink.com.au
Modbus Programmable Stepper Motor Controller
Based on the Serial Stepper Motor
Controller featured in SILICON CHIP July
2005, the introduction of a more powerful
microcontroller has allowed Ocean Controls to produce a standalone four-axis
stepper motor controller which can be
programmed via a PC using supplied windows software or alternatively controlled
via a PLC to free the PLC from complex
stepper motor control routines. Up to four
cards can be controlled from a PLC using
the Modbus protocol.
Up to 120 instructions can be programmed into the controller for one
motor, 80 instructions for two, 60 instructions for three and 50 instructions for four
motors. Instructions are save in EEPROM
and are retained through power loss. Just
program once and then let it go.
Ideal for repetitive process tasks involving stepper motors, the unit provides eight
digital outputs which can be used as the
direction and step signals.
The outputs can also be used as general
purpose digital outputs when not being
used for motor control and the four digital
inputs can be used for limit switches or
program control.
Contact:
Ocean Controls
4 Ferguson Drive, Balnarring Vic 3926
Phone: (03) 5983 1163
Website: www.oceancontrols.com.au
SILICON CHIP
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Want your product or service featured both
here and on the SILICON CHIP website for the
one low price?
Contact Phil Benedictus or Lawrence Smith
on (02) 9211 9792 for all the details!
92 S
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TeleLink Communications
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
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TOROIDAL
Lab & Workshop Gear
from DSE
Dick Smith Electronics have shown
us some of their new laboratory and
workshop gear.
First up are two new professional
standard multimeters. These are the
highly regarded “Meterman” brand
with a large, 2000 count display and
not only have the ranges you’d expect
to find, they also include a 1.5V and
9V battery checker (with load) , AC
current from 200mA to 200mA and a
continuity/diode check.
But wait, there’s more! There’s also
“VolTect”: a non-contact voltage indicator which buzzes and lights in the
presence of AC line voltages.
The 5XP model (left – Cat Q-1786)
retails for $78.99 while the higherperforming 30XR model (right – Cat
Q-1781) sells for $99.00
Also shown this month is an 18V
cordless drill kit. The drill has a
variable speed (0 to 900RPM) and a
10mm keyless chuck with 17 Torque
settings. Included in the kit is a five
hour charger with auto cutoff and
various drill/screwdriver bits, all for
the very attractive price of just $29.99.
Finally, for those who must undo
tamper-proof screws comes this handy
POWER TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
eight-piece security Torx-style keys
made from super-hard S2-grade steel
alloy. Sizes include T5, T6, T7, T8, T9,
T10, T15 and T20 and are supplied in
a folding plastic retainer.
Retail price is $12.99 (Cat T-3547).
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
PO Box 500, Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
100,000 Application Publishing Solutions to be Given Away!
London-based 2X is giving away
100,000 free versions of its application
publishing solution, 2X ApplicationServer,
in a bid to make application tunneling
affordable to all.
With it, companies can seamlessly
tunnel any Windows application onto
remote desktops, without having to install
the application onto each user’s machine.
The offer is available from www.2x.
And the
winner is...
com/applicationserver/applicationpublishing.htm
The first 100,000 visitors are entitled
to a free 5-application license of 2X ApplicationServer for Windows Terminal
Services. Organisations can install applications onto one central server and
use 2X ApplicationServer to seamlessly
tunnel up to five applications per server
onto remote desktops.
The first monthly winner
(March 2006) of one of these superb
DSE 20MHz dual-channel ’scopes is
Mr Malcolm Amey
of Mittagong, NSW
Want to be a winner?
Simply subscribe to SILICON CHIP
(or renew your subscription) and
your name could be drawn!
See P99 of this issue for full details!
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monitoring.
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Tel:(07) 4639
1100
Fax:
1275
(02)
9533(07)4639
3517
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Tel: (03)SC9762
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RF Modules Australia
Silvertone
Silvertone Electronics
Electronics
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
WebLINK: www.rfmodules.com.au
WebLINK:
www.silvertone.com.au
WebLINK:
silvertone.com.au
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The rare Edison R6 console receiver
Built into an ornate timber cabinet, the Edison
R6 console was a high-performance TRF
receiver with nine valves. It’s quite a rare
receiver with some interesting design features.
D
ESPITE HIS well-known association with the cylinder phonograph,
the name “Edison” is not usually associated with radio receivers. Indeed,
most people are completely unaware
that Edison was ever involved in the
manufacture of radio equipment.
Edison’s association with radio
manufacture came about when his
company purchased the Splitdorf
Radio Corporation of Newark in New
Jersey, USA around 1928. Along
with many other manufacturers in
the 1920s, Splitdorf had been caught
out producing too many radios for a
contracting market at the beginning of
the depression. As a result, the nearbankrupt company was taken over by
Edison to become the Radio Division
of Thomas A. Edison Inc.
The RF chassis (top) sits on a shelf, while the audio output/power supply chassis
rests on the bottom of the cabinet. Note the retrofitted 240V-to-110V mains
transformer at bottom right.
94 Silicon Chip
Edison himself was not directly involved in the Radio Division, having
apparently delegated that responsibility to his son Theodore. Their venture
into radio manufacturing was to be
short-lived however, with production
ceasing by the end of 1930. Hence, only
relatively few sets were produced by
Edison and they are now quite rare.
Early history
Protectionism was rife during the
Edison era and the importation of radio
sets was curtailed by the Australian
Government around about 1930. This
meant that local manufacturers had an
easier time, as they had no effective
overseas competition.
However, it also meant that the
quality designs from overseas had little influence on the Australian market, except where some licensing arrangement could be reached. This
meant that Australians were denied
the chance of owning quite a few very
good receivers, such as the R6 Edison
described in here.
This particular receiver was one of
three imported in 1930 by A. R. Harris Company of Christchurch, New
Zealand. The fate of the other two is
unknown but this one was used by the
Harris family for many years before being put up for auction in Christchurch.
There has been more horse-trading
since then and the set is now part of
a collection on the north coast of New
South Wales, where I believe it will
remain for a long time. It had been
quite skilfully restored by a previous
owner and the only “modification”
is the installation of a 240V-to-115V
transformer to the right of the power
supply/audio output stages, as viewed
from the rear of the set.
Main features
The R6 is built into a timber console
siliconchip.com.au
cabinet which is on turned wooden
legs. By contrast, its R7 sister receiver
is in a lowboy cabinet but shares the
same electronics.
The cabinet is quite attractive and
would have complemented the decor
of the typical 1930s lounge room. It has
two doors which are folded out when
the receiver is in use. In addition, it
features a fancy loudspeaker fretwork
cut-out that looks rather like a large
4-leaf clover and sets the speaker section
of the cabinet off very nicely.
Immediately above the speaker
section is the dial scale and the five
controls. These are, from bottom left
to right, volume, on/off and tone; and
from top left to right, local/distance
and tuning. The “Light-O-Matic” is a
fancy name for the dial-lamp switch. It
is a mechanical switch that illuminates
the dial lamp when the set is tuned
to a selected station. This switching
is accomplished by a contact on the
dial drive system.
They certainly had some rather flash
names for some of the very ordinary
facilities on the radios of the time!
A rear view of the set reveals two
large chassis mounted at different
levels of the cabinet. The upper chassis contains the radio frequency (RF)
amplifiers, the detector, automatic
volume control circuit (AVC/AGC)
and two stages of audio amplification.
The lower and much heavier chassis
houses the power supply and the audio output stages. Both chassis are in
quite good condition, despite the set
now being 75 years old.
This front view shows the Edison R6 console with the cabinet doors open.
R6 circuit details
At the time it was made, TRF
(tun
ed radio frequency) receivers
were the only sets being produced
by manufacturers in large quantities,
with superheterodyne receivers still
largely in the experimental stages.
Some TRF receivers were better than
others and the Edison R6 with its
nine valves shows its quality in terms
of sensitivity, selectivity and audio
performance.
The RF (radio frequency) section
uses no less than three tuned circuits
before the 224 (24) first RF amplifier
stage. Following this stage is another
tuned circuit and a second 224 RF
amplifier. A third 224 RF amplifier
is tuned in the grid circuit but the
plate circuit has what appears to be
a broadbanded circuit which feeds a
227 diode detector and AGC circuit.
siliconchip.com.au
A close-up view of the audio output/power supply chassis and the large electrodynamic loudspeaker. The added 240V/115V transformer looks out of place.
May 2006 95
Fig.1: the Edison R6 is a 9-valve TRF receiver with three RF amplifier stages (224) and a diode detector based on a
227. Two more 227s act as audio stages, while the final audio stage consists of two 245 valves operating in push-pull.
The 80 valve is the rectifier.
The 227 is actually a triode but in
this circuit the plate is earthed (as a
shield) and the grid acts as the diode
plate. Using a diode as the detector can
be considered an advanced feature in
this set. Most other sets used either
anode bend or grid detectors.
Another innovative feature was the
use of AGC on the three RF valves.
AGC was a rarity around 1930. Only
partial AGC is applied to the third
RF amplifier – the 224 is a relatively
sharp cut-off valve and applying a lot
of AGC bias to this stage could cause
distortion. As it is, a local-distance
switch is fitted to alleviate the problem of overloading the RF valves with
strong signals.
Following the detector, two more
227 valves amplify the audio signal
which is then fed to a push-pull audio transformer. This then feeds the
grids of a pair of 245 valves operating
in push-pull, which in turn drive an
output transformer and an electrodynamic speaker.
96 Silicon Chip
To minimise hum in the audio, the
two 245 valves each have a potentiometer across the filament transformer
windings. These two pots have a
ganged moving arm which goes to
earth and is adjusted for minimum
hum in the output.
Power supply
The power supply is conventional,
with considerable attention paid to
filtering. The primary of the transformer is tapped at 105V, 115V and
125V, hence the use of an additional
stepdown transformer in this particular unit.
One interesting feature is the provision of a capacitor on the primary side
of the transformer. The idea here was
that this could be connected to the
aerial (antenna) terminal, so that the
mains could act as an aerial. However,
this type of aerial system was usually
quite noisy due to electrical interference on the mains. In addition, there
was always a risk that the capacitor
could break down and apply mains
voltages to any external antenna, with
possibly fatal results.
Leaving this capacitor disconnected
and using a separate outside antenna
was certainly a much better (and far
safer) idea!
The HT secondary of the mains
transformer is fed to an 80 rectifier
valve (the 80 and 5Y3GT are electrically equivalent). The resulting DC is
then applied to a tapped choke in the
positive supply line, along with three
filter capacitors. The field coil of the
electrodynamic speaker acts as a filter
in the negative line.
Finally, there are four filament
windings on the secondary of the
transformer, one five volt for the rectifier and three 2.5 volt ones for the rest
of the receiver.
Alignment
The five RF circuits are tuned by
two separate tuning capacitors (one
3-gang and one 2-gang), which are
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A close-up view of the Edison R6’s control panel: from bottom left to right,
volume, on/off and tone; and from top left to right, local/distance and tuning.
mechanically coupled together. Although I have never had to align this
receiver, I suspect that it would pay to
carefully follow the correct procedure,
otherwise the performance could be
very mediocre.
There are trimmers across the five
tuning gangs and these would all be
peaked at the high-frequency end
of the tuning range. At first glance,
there don’t appear to be any adjustments at the low-frequency end of
the dial. However, I wonder what the
trimmer capacitors at the bottom ends
siliconchip.com.au
of the RF primary windings on the
two inter-stage transformers are for?
It’s quite possible that these alter the
performance at the low-frequency end
of the dial by changing the apparent
inductance of the two tuned windings.
The first three tuned circuits do not
have this feature. Personally, I would
be tempted to note the positions of the
trimmers and try adjustments at both
ends of the dial to see what happened.
If it all became pear-shaped, at least
they could be set back to their original
positions.
Check it out to see how many you still have.
If your magazine has not turned up by the
first week of the month, contact us at
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
In this case, it was unnecessary to
fiddle with the alignment, as the set
is quite sensitive, has good selectivity
and produces good quality audio.
Replacement parts
Most of the fixed capacitors in this
set were replaced in the not too distant
past. In this case, the old capacitors
had been removed from their cases
and the new ones substituted to keep
the chassis looking original. Certainly,
this job has been extremely well done,
the step-down mains transformer beMay 2006 97
The parts on the underside of the RF chassis are very neatly laid out and easy to access. Note the row of coils at top.
Photo Gallery: Healing 527E 5-Valve Console
MANUFACTURED BY A.
G. Healing, Melbourne, in
1946, the model 527E is an
early post-war broadcast
band console receiver. It
featured a large rotating
“barrel” type dial and a
30cm loudspeaker and
combined good performance with attractive
styling. A companion
model, the 577E, was also
produced and this included a shortwave band
that tuned from 7.89MHz
to 24MHz.
The valve line-up was as
follows: 6J8-G frequency
changer; 6U7-G IF amplifier; 6B6-G detector/audio
amplifier/AVC rectifier;
6V6-G audio output; and
5Y3-G rectifier. Photo:
Historical Radio Society
of Australia, Inc.
98 Silicon Chip
ing the only item that’s obviously a
“ring-in”.
Access under each of the chassis
is quite good, with, all components
neatly laid out and quite easy to get at.
Access to the RF coils is also good, and
the coil winding is still in excellent
condition after all these years.
Summary
This is indeed a rare receiver and
is probably the only one of its kind in
Australia. It has a high-quality timber
cabinet and when complete with the
works, is a job for two people to lift.
Both the chassis work and the wiring
is also of good quality.
The set’s performance is superb
and is still quite useful in today’s
world, with stations quite close together in frequency. In summary, the
Radio Division of Thomas A Edison
Inc. produced a fine receiver. If their
other models were of the same quality, they would have been excellent
receivers – although rather expensive, I suspect.
Finally, my thanks to Brian Lackie
for providing the information necesSC
sary for this article.
siliconchip.com.au
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2006 99
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Boost your ZigBEE range
for a few bucks
(or even cents!)
Since ZigBee (which we introduced last month) is on
the same licence-free 2.4GHz band as other microwave
services, many compact WiFi antenna designs can also be
conveniently used with ZigBee devices.
A
side from range extension,
especially valuable, given
the tiny 1mW XBee transmitter
power, such antennas may also help
reduce unwanted RF noise picked up
from the myriad of devices (WiFi, cord-
by Stan Swan
less and Bluetooth phones, microwave
ovens, video senders etc) now flooding
that same 2.4GHz spectrum slice.
Rev.Ed’s XBee units come with a
small factory-fitted wire radiator, although this looks shorter than the theoretical quarter-wave whip (31.5mm) of
a 125mm 2.4GHz wave.
Outdoor range checks gave a good
You can make a variety of parabolic (and
near parabolic) reflectors for ZigBee and even WiFi using simple
(and cheap!) materials. More details are on Stan’s website: www.orcon.net.nz
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
50-100m between bare units but were
hugely influenced by the usual microwave line-of-sight (LOS) limitations.
Even shielding at 100m with your
body will completely cut signals, as
will vegetation in full leaf (it’s actually the water in both which knocks
the signal about).
Indoors, through timber and plaster
walls, gave ~20m range. Remember
that brick walls, especially external
ones, absorb moisture so are always
likely to be more of a problem.
Wireless data links likely to be subject to such obstacles may show more
“punch” with cheaper (but slower)
UHF 433MHz modules (see SILICON
CHIP, December 2005).
Since each 6dB antenna gain doubles range, a simple 6dB antenna
“point to point” at each end should
yield 12dB (or four times) the bare
range.
You can solder different antennas
(such as a Biquad) to the XBee but
rather than modifying the existing
whip to improve coverage, it’s perhaps
easier to just position the entire XBee
unit at the focal point of a simple
concentrating reflector.
0
00
$10 IZE
R
P
!
OL
PO
Outstanding LOS range extensions
were shown by the 12-15dB gain parabolic “cookware” dish designs we first
promoted for USB WiFi (see “WiFry
Antennas”, SILICON CHIP, September
2004 or www.usbwifi.orcon.net.nz).
XBee trials over water readily gave
3km links with these at both ends
(see www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/zigscoop.jpg) – quite amazing for 1mW
and only modest receiver sensitivity.
Such performance implies LOS ranges
with swapped out XBee Pros (100mW
transmitter and superior receiver) may
only be limited by the curvature of
the earth, as a DefCon WiFi shootout
in dry-air-Nevada recently achieved
~200km LOS point-to-point with
standard WiFi adaptors and (very)
large dishes.
Naturally ZigBee setups won’t
have to stretch that far but may need
a “helping hand”. If parabolic maths
leaves you numb, consider diverse
DIY cardboard and foil template parabolas or corner reflectors that usefully enhance 2.4GHz signals , although
accurate measuring and profiling may
be needed. Again, see www.usbwifi.
orcon.net.nz/carwifi.jpg and www.
usbwifi.orcon.net.nz/cnr.jpg
The catenary curve of hanging
chains approximates a parabola very
closely (even Galileo in 1669 was
fooled!) – see www.usbwifi.orcon.net.
nz/catcurve.jpg
But an even simpler DIY design,
based around flexible plastic or metal
sheet offcuts, has evolved – www.
usbwifi.orcon.net.nz/plaspara.jpg.
This exploits the little known fact
that end-clamped rods and “bendy”
sheets assume a roughly parabolic
shape when flexed.
A few minutes with some springy
plastic offcuts, string, glue and cooking foil can give you around 9dB gain
– use the old “finger at the hot spot”
trick to carefully find the focal point
via reflected sunshine.
Even “bendy rulers” can be used,
although a wider strip will give better
performance. One at each end will give
~18dB system gain, enough for a 1km
LOS XBee link.
Since offcut ends are cord secured,
the concentration may be more
cardioid (“heart shaped”) than true
parabolic but this is not too crucial
– even the Arecibo Observatory’s
huge radio telescope reflecting dish
is spherical.
SC
2006 S ILICON C HIP
Excellence in Education Technology Awards
NOW OPEN
SILICON CHIP magazine aims to promote the education, development and application of electronic
technology in all fields throughout Australia. As part of that aim, we are announcing the SILICON CHIP Excellence
in Education Technology awards, with a prize pool of $10,000. Separate awards will be made to students of
secondary schools throughout Australia and to students of universities and TAFE colleges throughout Australia.
The secondary school awards will have three categories:
AWARD FOR
EXCELLENCE
(a) Best final year assignment of an individual student involving electronics technology
(b) An award to the school sponsoring the winning individual student
(c) Best school project involving electronics technology
The university and TAFE college awards will have three categories:
(a)
Best project from a student as part completion of a degree, diploma or certificate in electronics or
a related field (ie, mechatronics)
(b) Best research project from a post-graduate student working in an area of applied electronics
(c) An award to the university faculty or school sponsoring the best research project.
Entries and judging
The awards will be judged by the editorial staff of SILICON CHIP, convened as a judges panel.
The decisions of the judges will be final.
Entries for the 2006 awards are now open, with final submissions to be made by September 30th, 2006.
All submissions will be confidential, until the winners are announced, in the December 2006 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Each award will take the form of a cash prize and a commemorative plaque. All enquiries about these awards
should be directed to the editor via email to: awards<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 101
BOOK REVIEWS
Electric Motors and Drives; Fundamentals, Types
and Applications, by Austin Hughes.
3rd edition published 2006 by Elsevier Ltd. Soft
covers, 151 x 234mm, 410 pages. ISBN 0 7506 4718 3.
$52.50 including GST.
This is the third edition of a book first published in 1990
and it has been substantially updated. It is a very useful
reference book for anyone wanting a comprehensive understanding of motors and drives, without having to delve
into extensive mathematics. It is particularly strong in its
explanation of induction motors, the most common motor
used in variable speed drives today.
Many readers may wonder why there are so many different types of electric motor and how they come to be used in
particular applications. For example, why are permanent
magnet motors universally used in battery-operated tools
while universal (series) motors are the motor of choice
in mains-power operated tools? Or why have induction
motors with variable frequency inverter drives replaced
series brush motors in all traction applications? Or what
are the common features of induction motors and brushless DC motors?
To know the answers to these and many other motorrelated questions you need to read and understand this
book by Austin Hughes. I have not seen another book
which covers this wide subject more comprehensively and
in such an easy-to-read style. That is not to say, that it is
easy bed-time reading – it is not. In fact, it took me quite
a while to read and re-read some chapters as I undertook
what was effectively a substantial revision of this most
important area of engineering.
Nor is the book completely free of maths – formulas are
often quoted and each chapter has worked examples and
questions with worked solutions available on a website.
Some knowledge of AC circuit theory is also required for
best understanding of the chapters on drives and induction motors.
The book has 11 chapters and one appendix. Chapter 1
is on the basics of electric motors while chapter 2 is on the
basics of electronic motor drives, covering choppers and
thyristors (SCRs) and inverter switching devices such as
Mosfets, IGBTs and GTOs. Chapter 3 is a comprehensive
coverage of DC motors, including series, shunt, compound,
universal and toy (permanent magnet).
I should note that battery-operated power tools and those
used in cars (both normally permanent magnet types) do not
get a specific mention. In fact, no auto electric motors (eg,
series-wound starter motors or permanent magnet types)
are covered although once you have read this book, you
should have a good understanding of these types.
Chapter 4 covers DC motor drives, mostly to do with
thyristor drives although chopper drives do get a mention,
as do servo motors and position control and digital drives.
102 Silicon Chip
But note that if you’re looking for a good understanding of
servos used in radio-controlled equipment, you will have
to look elsewhere (starting with SILICON CHIP magazine).
Chapters 5 & 6 cover induction motors and their operating characteristics, with a thorough description of rotating
magnetic fields, slip and torque, starting methods, speed
control and so on. There are brief descriptions of single
phase capacitor start motors, split phase motors and shaded
pole motors (widely used in fans).
Chapter 7 is a very detailed description of the induction
motor equivalent circuit which explains the similarity
between an induction motor and a transformer.
Chapter 8 is on inverter-fed induction motor drives
while chapter 9 is on stepper motors. Chapter 10 is on
synchronous, brushless DC and switched reluctance drives,
all of which are similar in principle to induction motors.
Chapter 11 is on motor/drive selection. Finally, there is an
appendix on closed-loop control.
To conclude, this is a very worthwhile book if you want
a good reference on electric motors and drives. (L.D.S.)
This book is available from the SILICON CHIP Bookshop –
see pages 104-105 of this issue for more information.
siliconchip.com.au
The Camper Trailer Book, by Collyn Rivers.
Self-published 2005. Soft covers, spiral bound,
210 x 296mm, 76 pages. ISBN 0 9578965 3 0. $42.50.
Why would you want a book on camper trailers? The
answer is that there are thousands of such trailers on the
roads around Australia and probably most are not properly
set up for the long-term reliable service.
Collyn Rivers has written books on related topics such
as Motorhome Electrics (reviewed in SILICON CHIP, February 2003) and is well-qualified to give a good over-view.
In only 76 pages and 24 chapters Collyn covers everything
you could possibly want to know about camper trailers.
There is very pertinent information about auxiliary batteries and charging, solar panels and regulators.
I thought it was all good information apart from the
chapter on safety which talks about dealing with mosquitos, sand-flies, marine stingers, snakes and crocodiles.
This includes a photo of a crocodile which is supposedly
a freshwater type. To me, it looks identical to a saltwater
crocodile – extremely dangerous.
In fact, I think his information about crocodiles should
include the point that any sign of a crocodile is an immediate danger warning. If you see a small crocodile, there
is probably a much larger one close by! Get out of there!
To purchase this book, contact the publisher at
Caravan and Motorhome Books, PO Box 3634, Broome,
WA 6725. Phone (08) 9192 5961; or via his website,
www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com
SC
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 103
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
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The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
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PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
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Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
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PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
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PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
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by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
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SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
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AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
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DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
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A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
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by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
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By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
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See
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Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
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PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
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March
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ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
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RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
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there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
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April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
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PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
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by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
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SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
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AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
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chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
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you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
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A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
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by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
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By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
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SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
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PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
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ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
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formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
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motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
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send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Substituting drivers
in the PA speaker
In the September 1996 issue of
SILICON CHIP there was a project for
a “high-quality loudspeaker for public address”. The specified speakers
(P17WG-00-08 and AD11600/T8) are
hard to find now. Do you know of
equivalent speakers that are readily
available? (S. P., via email).
• Philips AD11600/T8 tweeters are
now unavailable and the Vifa woofers are also hard to get. However, the
designer of the project has since made
an equivalent PA speaker using four
C3086 165mm woofers and four C3003
25mm dome tweeters, from Altronics
in Perth.
The design is similar to the original
but with the following changes: First,
the box is changed from 750 x 370 x
460mm to 800 x 440 x 440mm for a
nominal internal capacity of 100 litres
using 18mm MDF. The spacing between woofers and tweeters is 150mm;
tweeter-to-tweeter spacing is 55mm;
woofer-to-woofer spacing is 185mm.
Port to tweeter spacing is 55mm.
The ports require a 65mm hole
while the tweeters require an 80mm
hole counter-bored to 104 x 4mm deep.
The woofers require a 150mm hole
counter-bored to 175 x 4mm deep. The
two speaker ports are each 50mm in
diameter and 200mm long.
The crossover arrangement is as per
the 1986 design, with the two 3.2mF
capacitors each used for the high-pass
and the low-pass filters changed to
4.7mF. The inductor for the woofer
crossover is changed from 0.82mH to
2.7mH. The inductor for the tweeter
crossover is changed from 0.82mH to
0.56mH.
The 10mF/12W ohm shunt network
across the woofers becomes 10mF and
8W. The attenuators for the tweeters
change from 3.9W and 10W to 3.9W
and 8.2W, respectively.
Tone generator
needs decoupling
I recently built a tone generator
using the circuit designed by Garry
Cratt (VK2YBX) in SILICON CHIP, September 1989. While it works well,
the audio output was a little low for
IRLP use.
I added an amplifier stage using a
386 chip. This increased the audio
Preamp For A Ceramic Cartridge
Do you have a circuit or project details for a preamplifier that
would suit a Dual 1010 record
player which I think has a magnetic
cartridge? I wish to copy some old
family records onto CD. (D. N., Orange, NSW).
• It is unlikely that your Dual 1010
is fitted with a magnetic cartridge.
It is more likely to have been fitted
with a ceramic (piezoelectric) cartridge with a flip-over stylus and so
it would require quite a different
preamp to one designed for a magnetic cartridge. In brief, it should
have a very high input impedance, a
flat frequency response (no equalisa106 Silicon Chip
tion) and modest gain.
We have not produced a preamp
specifically for a stereo ceramic
cartridge although there was a mono
circuit featured in the June 2002 issue (but no PC board). If you were
keen, you could build a stereo hifi
version of the valve preamplifier
featured in the February 2004 issue.
You should alter the grid resistor at
pin of the 12AX7 valve to 4.7MW, to
ensure good bass response.
This approach would be fairly
expensive and for less money you
could buy a complete turntable with
an inbuilt preamplifier from Dick
Smith Electronics or Tandy stores.
output but it corrupted it so much that
it was useless for the purpose.
Not long after that I obtained a tone
generator that had been made for
telephone banking (in the past). This
unit was compact and worked well
but again it is low on audio output. I
added the 386 audio amplifier stage
and got the same result as previously.
The question is: can you suggest
an alternative chip/circuit that will
not degrade the output tones? (H. M.,
via email).
• The reason why you are finding that
the 386 corrupts the sound output is
probably because you are using the
same battery supply to run the tone
generator and the amplifier. Is that
right? If so, you need to “decouple”
the supply to the generator circuit.
While we don’t know the current
drain of the generator circuit, we suggest you use a series 100W resistor in
the generator positive rail and then
connect a 470mF capacitor across the
resulting generator supply.
LiPO battery
discharge risk
I need some advice please. I have
read the article on the electric model
plane and the LiPO battery precautions
in the February 2006 issue. It warns
that the battery must not be discharged
below 2.4V. This seems to be virtually impossible unless the battery is
being used regularly or unless I find a
charger that can maintain the battery
in a charged state.
I have a similar problem with NiMH
batteries in my camera. At first I had
one set in the camera and another set
in a microprocessor-controlled battery
charger that I assumed would keep
them on a float charge, like the charge/
float LEDs indicated.
After several months when I got
the second set out of the charger they
were warm and so obviously had been
on more that a float charge for all that
time. The processor certainly wasn’t
looking after the batteries too well!
siliconchip.com.au
S-Video To Composite
Video Conversion
My computer only has S-video in/out while
my VCR only has composite video in/out and we
want to be able to edit videos.
Do you know of a circuit or kit that can convert composite video to S-video and S-video to
composite video? (J. M., via email).
• The Video Enhancer and Y/C Separator project
described in the August 2004 issue of SILICON CHIP
can be used to convert composite video signals
into S-video form to feed into your PC.
Conversion of an S-video signal back into composite form is much simpler, especially if you
only need to perform the conversion at a single
composite video input (like the video input of
your VCR). In this case, you can make up a simple
adaptor by connecting a 4-pin mini DIN socket
to a single RCA plug, with pins 3 & 4 of the mini
DIN socket both connected to the inner lug of
the RCA plug, and pins 1 and 2 of the mini DIN
socket both connected to the outer (earth) lug of
the RCA plug.
This “simplest possible” Y-C mixer introduces
a small impedance mismatch and a small amount
of signal loss but when placed right at the VCR’s
composite video input it usually gives satisfactory results.
After that episode I charged the
spare set and took them out of the
charger but of course they didn’t hold
their charge for long; just like the batteries in my laptop that are always flat
whenever I want to use it.
It seems that the only alternative is
to have the camera batteries, laptop
batteries, etc on charge all the time
and so cook them into a shortened
life span.
By chance I have been thinking
about fitting an electric motor to a large
glider that I rarely fly but after reading
the article it seems that not only will
the battery be flat when I want to use
it but it will probably not even be able
to be recharged and used. So what is
the answer? (B. O., via email).
• There is no easy answer to your
quandary. Even though some appliances may have low-battery protection, that will not stop LiPO batteries
ultimately self-discharging below 2.4V
if they are left uncharged for some
time. It would seem that the only
way to ensure that LiPO batteries (or
any other batteries for that matter) do
not ultimately become useless is to
siliconchip.com.au
give them a top-up charge every few
months or so. Either that or keep them
permanently on a very low trickle
charge, say only a few milliamps.
You are right though – batteries are
a pest!
Fire sensor for a
sprinkler system
I am currently trying to design a
sprinkler system for my house to
provide some protection in a bushfire
and need some way of automatically
triggering it when I am not there. I
acknowledge that the system may not
provide much help but I believe it is
better to try something than just rely
on the firefighters.
I am intending to have a water spray
system to drench the building but the
main issue is designing a sensor that
could activate the system automatically.
A sensor that could sit on a mast
and scan for an approaching fire front
using some sort of element to detect
fire flame signatures (have seen some
American models which are very ex-
pensive) could perhaps be used. This
could also be coupled with temperature and smoke sensors to provide a
comprehensive image of the approaching fire. (E. P., via email).
• Apart from conventional smoke detectors we don’t know anything about
fire sensors. One possibility is to use a
temperature sensor to sense the radiant heat of a fire. It could be tripped
when the detected temperature rises
above 70°C.
Remote volume
control for amplifiers
I have purchased a remote volume
control kit from Dick Smith Electronics in Christchurch, NZ. However, the
potentiometer in the kit has a total of
six pins and the existing potentiometer in my old Kenwood amplifier has a
total of eight pins. Is it possible to get
around this? (P. P., via email).
• It is probable that your Kenwood
amplifier has a Loudness switch
which operates via a tap connection
on each channel’s volume control
potentiometer.
May 2006 107
Clipping & Loudspeaker Protection For The Studio 350 Amplifier
I’ve built a Studio 350 power
amplifier (SILICON CHIP, January &
February 2004) and want to build
a protection circuit which will stop
the amplifier from going into clipping and also protect the speaker
against output transistor failure.
Have there been any suitable circuits published?
I found a Loudspeaker Protector
project (SILICON CHIP, August 2000)
but it seems to only be designed
for DC faults. Do you think this
circuit could be fairly easily modified to cope with both conditions?
I wouldn’t want the amplifier to
completely shut off if it is going into
clipping, just not drive any harder!
(T. R. Auckland, NZ).
• The project you refer to is suitable for protecting your speakers
from DC faults, such as output tran-
In that case, if you want the remote
volume control, you will have to
make do without the loudness feature.
Hence, just wire up the six connections
grouped together on the existing dual
ganged potentiometer and ignore the
tap connections – the loudness switch
will no longer work.
Cheap LED torches
not a good buy
I purchased a 6-LED torch that was
made in China. The LEDs slowly
deteriorated until one was blinking,
one was weak and one was normal.
The current limiting resistor used was
surface-mount and marked 5R6 which
I took to be 5.6W. I checked the resistor
after removing all the white LEDs and
it was 6.5W.
I then replaced the LEDs with
18,000mCd LEDs from Jaycar. They lit
up like a bush fire. As I feel the resistor
is too low, I replaced one of the three
batteries with a copper bolt to reduce
the voltage until I can find out how to
determine the correct resistor value
for six LEDs and 4.5V.
I know the correct formula for one
LED but I have not seen how it is done
with six LEDs. What do you suggest?
(S. M., via email).
• If you have a look in the current
Jaycar catalog, you will see that the
108 Silicon Chip
sistor failure. However, the power
supply section of the design is not
suitable for use running from the
Studio 350’s higher voltage supply
rails. It would be best to modify the
supply circuitry slightly so that it
could be driven from an auxiliary
12V or 15V winding of the main
power transformer.
We haven’t published a clipping
protection circuit. Although a good
concept, its implementation is problematic. First, it is probably not desirable to simply disable the amplifier when clipping is detected, since
“normal” music content at high
volume levels will occasionally
clip without causing any problems.
Instead, it would be better to
have the clipping detector drive a
limiting circuit ahead of the amplifier input, so that the signal is
18,000mCd LED you used has a forward voltage of 3.3V (typical) and
3.6V (max). Typical operating current
is 30mA but peak current is 100mA.
With six LEDs in parallel, fresh cells
giving 6V and a 5.6W limiting resistor, the total current drawn from the
batteries would be around 430mA or
about 70mA per LED. This is probably
within the original LED’s ratings but
the trouble is that they won’t share the
current equally which is probably why
they were progressively failing.
In a simple design such as this, you
should have a separate resistor feeding
each LED. Try a value of 56W. This will
give an initial current of around 45mA
with fresh cells but this will progressively drop as the cells discharge.
Leaving out a cell will give you less
battery life, because you will start
at 4.5V and have virtually no light
output once it drops to below 3V or
1V per cell. If you have four cells and
they discharge to a total of 3V, the
end-point is 0.75V/cell which means
longer battery life.
Adjusting PowerUP
threshold
I saw the PowerUP project in the
July 2003 issue. I want this unit to
turn on my subwoofer when the TV is
turned on using the remote. The thing
dynamically compressed. However,
this idea has its own limitations,
as much pop music has already
been considerably compressed.
Applying more compression at already high power levels may cause
speaker or amplifier overload, as
average power levels increase as
compression increases.
We have published two limiter/
compressor designs which would
require considerable modifications
for the job but they may prove of
some interest anyway: (1) Versatile
Electronic Guitar Limiter, October
1998; and (2) 1-Chip Guitar/Microphone Audio Compressor, March
1999.
You’ll find an interesting clipping
detector design on Elliott Sound
Products website at http://sound.
westhost.com/project23.htm
is, the TV is always on standby, so
there would always be a small amount
of current going through the TV power
supply. It would spike up when I turn
it on with the remote and this is what
I want to use to turn on the sub. (D.
E., via email).
• The sensitivity threshold for the
current monitoring is adjustable. If the
standby current on the TV is still too
high to be adjusted out, you can desensitise the circuit by using less turns
on inductor L1 or by adjusting the
gain of IC1a. A 500kW trimpot could
be used instead of the 470kW feedback
resistor on IC1a between pins 1 and 2.
Adjust it so that the switching occurs
when the TV is switched on from its
standby position.
Reaction timer with
millisecond display
I am trying to track down a kit to
measure reaction time for secondary
science students.
Ideally, a timer would start when
a light is turned on (by a switch controlled by the teacher) and it would
stop when another switch is pushed
by the student. The time would then be
displayed in milliseconds. We could
then make up a rig linked to a footpedal, etc. (D. S., via email).
• We have published three reaction
siliconchip.com.au
timers which could be relevant to your
enquiry: (1) Reaction Trainer (digital
display) March 1993; (2) Test Your Reaction Timer With A PC (DOS program)
February 1996; and (3) Reaction Timer
(with display via a digital multimeter)
June 2003.
Motor speed controller
for motion control
I am writing in regards to the Full
Range Motor Speed Controller in the
November 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
I am in the process of developing a
PIC-based motion control system.
The current mechanical loads in the
system require an electric motor of
about 0.75kW rating. The system
operates at two speeds: full speed
(500-600 RPM) and a crawl speed at
about 5-10 RPM.
My initial thoughts were to use a
6-pole 3-phase motor (920 RPM), a
2:1 reduction belt drive and a suitable
variable frequency controller. Unfortunately, these controllers are far too
expensive and not really designed for
interface to a microcontroller.
I then tried to locate a suitable standalone universal motor in the 1HP range
but a lengthy search on the net found
nothing (they are all built into power
tools of some description).
I did however manage to find a
stand-alone 1HP 180V brush permanent magnet DC motor (1750 RPM).
Could this motor be used with the
controller you published in 1997? It
stands to reason that it should as it
produces pulsed DC.
If this can be done, I intend to replace the 1kW resistor associated with
VR1 (speed) with a 10kW trimmer to
set the maximum voltage applied to
How To Detect A Radar Detector
In “Mailbag” for February 2006,
you published a letter from Brad
Sheargold who asked a number
of questions, many of which you
answered but one in particular I
noticed you left unanswered. Brad
asked: “police claim to be able to detect radar detectors (if these are only
receivers I don’t know how they can
do this – can you explain?)”.
I have been told that police are
able to detect radar detectors due
to some of the superheterodyne
oscillations of the receiver actually
radiating from it. Is this correct?
I have also heard that some
the motor, as well as VR1 itself with
two trimpots switched in and out of
the circuit by suitable optocouplers,
giving me two presetable speeds. Motor reversing will be via a high-current
DPDT relay wired in the usual way.
Any feedback you can give on this
subject would be greatly appreciated.
(L. T., via email).
• The suggested speed controller
should be fine although since the motor is only 180V, you could possibly get
away with the simpler half-wave speed
controller for universal motors, published in the October 2002. However,
it may not have sufficiently good crawl
speed control for your purpose.
Wants to build
a LED clock
I am looking for a 12V LED clock
with mid-size LED displays (around
electronics “gurus” have been able
to modify their radar detectors to
shift the superheterodyne oscillations outside the range of frequencies being monitored by the “radar
detector detectors” thus rendering
them undetectable. Is this feasible?
If so, how would it be done? (T. L.,
via email).
• You are quite right. The local
oscillator in the car’s radar detector
itself radiates and can be picked up
by police receivers. It may be feasible to shift the local oscillator but it
would not be simple and may still
be detectable by the police.
20mm height). Can you help me? (P.
M., via email).
• These days, most people would not
bother building a digital clock since
they are so cheap to buy but have a
look at the 4-digit LED clock in the
April 1993 issue. It uses 4000-series
CMOS logic ICs and common cathode
SC
7-segment LED displays.
Notes & Errata
VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor, Sept
ember 2005: the line (speaker) output connector on most PC sound
cards is colour-coded green, not
blue as stated in the article. Also,
the adaptor will not work with
professional audio sound cards
that lack an internal microphone
preamp.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2006 109
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for these pages: Classified ads: $27.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 80 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $49.50 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To book your classified ad, email the text to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and include
your credit card details, or fax (02) 9979 6503, or post to Silicon Chip Classifieds,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
o Bankcard o Visa Card o Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
FOR SALE
LEDs – SUPERBRIGHTS from just 25
cents each. 12 volt LED lightbars and
kits, great for solar/camping. New IN14 nixie clock kit available now! Lots of
other interesting stuff, if I don’t have it,
just ask! www.ledsales.com.au
More control solutions for you!
NEW iUSBDaq Data Acquisition
Module: features 8 12-bit analog inputs,
16 digital I/O, 2 PWM outputs, 1 high
speed counter. High sampling rates.
Free software, Labview driver and dll
component.
N1500LC Load Cell Panel Meter: New
Low Cost, Great Accuracy, Fully programmable Indicator with 4-20mA and
2 relay outputs.
USB to RS422/RS485 converter: with
1500V Isolation, RTS or Auto Data Flow
110 Silicon Chip
control. Heaps of other features.
Electronic Thermostats: with digital
temperature displays, 2 control relays,
can be used in heating and cooling. NTC
thermistor or J TC or Pt100 sensors.
Temperature and Humidity Sensors:
Great accuracy, 4-20mA output. Wall
and Duct mounting available.
Signal Conditioners non isolated
and isolated: convert thermocouples,
RTDs to 4-20mA or 0-10V Fully programmable.
Stepper Motors: we have a selection
of Stepper motors for hobby and high
torque CNC applications.
DC Motors for both hobby and high
torque applications.
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller kits.
Counter and Timers: 7-digit and 10year battery operated.
Multi Function Timer and Cyclic Timer/
Pulse Generator
Serial and Parallel Port relay controller cards.
Pump and Trip Alarm controller card.
Duty-Standby operation.
PIC MicroProgrammers: serial and
USB port operated.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Cards: suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs.
Switch Mode, Battery Chargers and
DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering
available at www.oceancontrols.com.
au Helping to put you in control.
HIGH QUALITY LED TORCHES: 1-watt
R-bin: Fenix L0P, L1P or L2P using 1
x AAA, 1 or 2 AA. 3-watt: Nuwai QIII,
TM-301X-3 using 1 or 2 CR123A. AIT
Nightstar uses no batteries at all! www.
torchworld.com.au/sc/
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR, 68HC
08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16. from
$330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
siliconchip.com.au
Super Clean
VSB Modulator
KCM
Laceys.tv
™
42 Brunel Rd Seaford VIC 3198
Tel (03) 9776 9222 web:www.laceys.tv
also Sydney, CoffsHarbour, Ulverstone
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
E xpe rt s peaker r epa irs
Hi-Fi
Professional
Car
Foam and rubber surrounds, voice coils,
spiders, cones and more. Original parts
for Dynaudio, Tannoy, EV, JBL and others.
Australian agents for Ortofon products.
Trade welcome. Email us for your user ID.
Phone (03) 9647 7000
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
You have the Circuit - We can Package it?
Printed Circuit Boards -
www.speakerbits.com
Call Mike for PCB Layout
Prototyping, Small Runs
and Production Runs
Product & Panel Labelling - Call Martin for Full
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
100MSa/s 10bits each channel
4M samples per input
100MHz bandwidth
8 digital inputs
Sig-gen option
Spectrum analyser
Windows 98/Me/NT/2k/XP
Colour on
Clear, White, Brushed
Aluminium, or Gold Label.
Mi Mar
Resources
FACTORY 3 / 26 STAFFORD STREET
HUNTINGDALE 3166
Tel: (03) 9 562 7030 Fax: (03) 9 562 7040
e-mail: pcbs<at>alphalink.com.au
Little Devil Antennas
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
www.grantronics.com.au
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web-site. Credit cards
accepted. GRANTRONICS PTY LTD,
PO Box 275, Wentworthville 2145. (02)
9896 7150 or http://www.grantronics.
com.au
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
siliconchip.com.au
www.ldantennas.com.au
Office: 03 62652148
Mobile: 0409136268
High Performance Antennas
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed & direction, inside temperature, outside temperature and windchill. Records highs
and lows with time and date as they
occur. Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used by government departments,
farmers, pilots and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
Best high end DIY audio kits
on the planet!
www.aksaonline.com
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
May 2006 111
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch: phone (03) 9761 7040; fax (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Victoria 3137. ABN 63 006 399
480. www.davisinstruments.com.au
*PRINTED CIRCUIT DESIGN*: a
professional-quality PCB design, circuit
diagram and parts list from your sketch
circuit for $120. Single or double sided,
up to 50 components, any size.
media.a<at>bigpond.net.au or 0414
356 409.
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
POWER LEDs, Super Flux LEDs,
12VDC LED modules & blank PCBs.
Quantity discounts. www.luxtronics.
com.au
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
USB KITS: Gas Sensors (CO, LPG,
Alcohol), GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper
Motor Controller, PIO Interface, DTMF
Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS HF
Generator, Compass, 4 Channel Voltmeter, I/O Relay Card, USB via LabVIEW. Also available: Digital Oscillo
scope, Temperature Loggers, VHF
Receivers and USB ActiveX (and
USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits
112 Silicon Chip
from your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
TFT LCD COLOUR OEM modules:
5”; 4:3 aspect ratio; remote control;
12V; audio capable; composite video
in; PAL/NTSC; reversible E/W scan via
r/c. $169.
Colour CMOS Camera modules: 1/3”
image sensor; 12V; PAL composite
out. $49.
Geared motors: Any combination
of 12V or 24V, 75RPM or 175RPM,
Heavy Duty. $129; 12V<at>10RPM. $69;
Speed controllers available. Email
info<at>crestmi.com.au; web www.
crestmi.com.au
WANTED
PANASONIC VCR MODEL NV F70 HQ
and remote. Also circuit diagrams and
maintenance manual for MAITEC LINX
1500 UPS. 03 5348 2069.
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS,
Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books,
Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon,
SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Goodmans, Wharfedale,
Tannoy, radio and wireless. Collector/
Hobbyist will pay cash. (07) 5471 1062.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
Advertising Index
555 Electronics........................... 103
Altronics.................................. 84-87
Aspen Amplifiers........................ 111
Alternative Technology Assoc...... 43
Av-Comm................................... 111
BitScope Designs......................... 39
Dick Smith Electronics............ 18-23
Digital Graphics.......................... 111
Eco Watch.................................. 111
Elexol........................................... 83
Evatco.......................................... 97
FreeNet Antennas...................... 110
Furzy Electronics........................ 112
Futurlec...................................... 107
Grantronics................................. 110
Harbuch Electronics..................... 93
Instant PCBs.............................. 112
Jaycar .................. IFC,53-60,93,112
JED Microprocessors................ 5,93
Laceys TV.................................. 111
LD Antennas.............................. 111
Microbric.................................... IBC
Microgram Computers.................... 3
MicroZed Computers.................... 41
MiMar Resources....................... 111
Oatley Electronics........................ 71
Ocean Controls.......................... 110
Quest Electronics........... 93,111,112
Radio Parts.............................. OBC
RCS Radio................................. 111
RF Modules.................................. 93
Silicon Chip Binders................ 33,35
Silicon Chip Bookshop........ 104-105
SC Perform. Elect. For Cars......... 38
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...... 61,99
Silicon Chip Technology Awards.101
Silvertone Electronics................ 111
Siomar Batteries.......................... 37
Speakerbits................................ 111
Taig Machinery........................... 111
Telelink.................................... 37,93
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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