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SILICON
CHIP
NOVEMBER 2006
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November 2006 1
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Contents
Vol.19, No.11; November 2006
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
8 Review: Sony Alpha A100 Digital SLR Camera
Sony’s new 10-megapixel black beauty has the goods – by Barrie Smith
16 Review: JVC KD-AVX2 Car Entertainment System
A complete entertainment system in a DIN-sized package – by Julian Edgar
68 Review: Bitscope BS310 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope
It packs a digital oscilloscope, logic analyser, data recorder and waveform
generator into one affordable package – by Peter Smith
Sony Alpha A100 10-Megapixel
Digital SLR Camera – Page 8.
Pro jects To Build
26 Build A Radar Speed Gun, Pt.1
Easy-to-build Doppler speed radar system can read directly in km/h or mph for
speeds in excess of 250km/h – by Jim Rowe
34 Build Your Own Compact Bass Reflex Loudspeakers
Ready-to-assemble with Peerless & Vifa drivers; you decide the final finish –
design by Aaron Waplington
41 Programmable Christmas Star
Hundreds of pre-programmed patterns, high-brightness LEDs, twinkle effects
and light enough to hang on your Christmas tree – by David Meiklejohn
76 DC Relay Switch For High-Current Loads
Build A Radar Speed Gun, Pt.1 –
Page 26.
Want to switch power to a high-current load using a circuit capable of
supplying just a few milliamps? This device is the answer – by John Clarke
80 LED Tachometer With Dual Displays, Pt.2
Completing the construction, tips on installation and adjusting the default
software settings to suit your car – by John Clarke
88 PICAXE Net Server, Pt.3
Controlling a simple motor-driven device via the Internet – by Clive Seager
Special Columns
48 Serviceman’s Log
So hopelessly devoted to you – by the TV Serviceman
62 Circuit Notebook
Build Your Own Compact Bass
Reflex Loudspeakers – Page 34.
(1) Wiegand Decoder; (2) Electronic Combination Lock; (3) Model Train
Detector; (4) Picaxe To LCD Interface; (5) Picaxe-Controlled Yoghurt Maker
72 Salvage It!
Using the convex lenses from car headlights (bike light) – by Julian Edgar
96 Vintage Radio
Radio Corporation’s WS108 military transceiver – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2
4
61
94
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
104 Ask Silicon Chip
107 Notes & Errata
110 Market Centre
Programmable Christmas Star
– Page 41.
November 2006 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Kevin Poulter
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
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E-mail: silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Publisher’s Letter
Do people really want
a high-performance
valve amplifier?
This month’s Mailbag kicks off with a letter
which is a plea for a high-quality valve amplifier.
This particular reader has evidently done a lot
of background research and knows many of the
issues involved. And while I can understand some
of the attractions of valve amplifiers – those glowing filaments and all of that – I wonder whether
enough readers would build such an amplifier if
we did go ahead. It might be like some other projects we have done in the
past where we have had people seemingly very keen to become involved
in an ambitious design, only to lose all enthusiasm when confronted with
a complicated kit and a reasonably large outlay of money. For example, it
is one thing to say you would like to see a 500W amplifier in the magazine
and quite another to go out, buy the kit and build it, when it finally appears
in the magazine.
So let’s flesh out this high-performance valve amplifier concept. First of
all, let’s define high performance, in the valve context. If we do design a
valve amplifier, it will need to deliver a total harmonic distortion of around
0.1%; or preferably .01%. That means we will be using negative feedback;
in fact we will probably use “nested feedback” and lots of it, with a pushpull output stage. That concept will probably turn off more than half of the
valve amplifier aficionados, since they have swallowed the nonsense from
some hifi magazines that all feedback is anathema.
Secondly, the amplifier will need to be very quiet, in order not to audibly
degrade the signals from compact disc and DVD players. We are not likely to
be able to achieve the extremely low residual noise of our best SILICON CHIP
solid-state designs but we would want to do better than -90dB if possible.
Third, we want to go for an output of 50 or 60 watts per channel. Anything less is really not enough with many of today’s relatively low efficiency
loudspeakers. And why labour long and hard, and lay out a lot of money, to
produce a valve amplifier which produces significantly less output.
So that’s the broad concept, with no circuit details, no potential valve list
for people to salivate over and nothing else to look forward to other than
it would be a “valve” amplifier rather than a “soul-less” solid-state design.
That it would be a lot more expensive than a far superior solid-state design
delivering lots more power is beyond doubt. How much money? I am guessing but it is likely to be the wrong side of $1000.00.
Now the question is: how many readers would go for it? 10? 30? Maybe 100?
Without some indication that a reasonable number of people would want
to build such an amplifier, the idea just won’t get to first base. If not, well
it won’t upset us. Our inclination is to upgrade the popular 15W class-A
amplifier which we featured in 1998. So if you really would like to see a
60W/channel valve amplifier (with feedback!), drop us an email.
Leo Simpson
ISSN 1030-2662
* Recommended and
maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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MAILBAG
Plea for high-quality
valve amplifier
Having recently started a book on
amplifier design, I have reviewed
a large number of circuits ranging
from the original Williamson to your
single-ended parallel 6L6 hybrid of
August 2005. Although I glanced at
your design initially, I didn’t take it
in until now.
I accept that, from the objectivist
point of view, valve amplifiers are not
capable of the accuracy and economy
of the best solid-state designs. People
who use valve amplifiers do so regardless of cost or inconvenience: Audio
Research and Conrad-Johnson (among
others) sell the biggest and most satisfying tube amplifiers at premium
prices although they also produce
solid-state models which are, on paper,
a more practical proposition.
The Williamson is probably the
most famous circuit of all time. It was
not simple or cheap but a vast number
were built in various forms. At the
same time, Baxandall published a
cheaper circuit which was ignored as
far as I can determine.
A decade later Baxandall published
an even cheaper design which cost
slightly less than the (by then established) Mullard 5-10 but produced lit-
Nuclear power
can be fragile
I just read your “nuclear” editorial in the July 2006 issue. For
anyone who has implicit faith in
nuclear reactors, we had an experience in Cape Town to keep one on
the edge of one’s seat. One of two
nuclear generators in the city was
(apparently) sabotaged and was
out of commission. As a result, the
city drew too much power and the
whole nuclear power station went
down.
Now, either the nuclear power station needs to keep going or it needs
to draw power from elsewhere, to
avert nuclear melt-down. So they
diverted power from the north of
the country. That overloaded the
4 Silicon Chip
tle more than half the power. This also
sank without trace. The clear inference
to be drawn is that for at least 60 years,
people have been custom-building
amplifiers to get better sound quality
than that obtainable off the shelf.
Since it is now possible to buy
highly linear amplification for less
than a dollar a watt (in the form of a 5.1
home-theatre receiver), one must ask
why anyone would want to build their
own amplification. The answer is obviously still “to get better sound quality
than that obtainable off the shelf”.
While conceding that the sweetest
recorded sound I can recall was (smallscale, limited frequency range) music
from vinyl on a single-ended EL84
(pentode) stage, I must implore you,
in order to maintain Australia’s excellent audio tradition (Benson, Thiele,
Small, Langford-Smith, Cherry, et al)
to publish at least one quality valve
amplifier as a reference.
I would suggest an upgraded Mull
ard 5-20 configuration to get the
advantages of zero unbalanced DC
in the output transformer primary
and cancellation of even-order nonlinearity (and ripple) in the output
stage. Since class-A operation is desired, cathode-bias can be used and
if more than 30 watts per channel is
grid, so that went down, too.
The third and final line of defence
was three large diesel generators,
which they powered up. However, as I understand it, diesel fuel
production was dependent on the
nuclear power station!
My insurer, with amazing rapidity, posted a nuclear exclusion
clause to all its clients. They got
the power station fixed eventually
with the help of the French (it’s
called Koeberg – it might well be
on the internet).
Thomas Scarborough,
Cape Town, South Africa.
Comment: it sounds as though the
country’s electric grid is not very
robust if it cannot withstand the
loss of one power station.
required, paralleled output devices
can be fitted, facilitating even better
output DC balance with a negligible
drop in open-loop gain.
The EF86 input stage (and its partition noise) could well be replaced by
a cheaper and easier to obtain 12AX7
configured as a DC-feedback pair. The
open loop gain and linearity of the
whole amplifier would easily allow
for a closed-loop sensitivity of 500mV
with 30dB negative feedback, resulting
in THD of well under 0.1% at 30W (or
60W with four output devices).
The amplifier needs to be affordable, but not cheap in any sense, and
certainly not below contemporary
standards for acceptable audio quality. Anything less would be a bad joke
which could rebound on Australia’s
international audio reputation.
Maybe I’m overlooking some important point but I can’t see how a
parallel single-ended output stage can
possibly compare with a push-pull
stage in any way other than in the
elimination of the phase-splitter (this
being the excuse given in a circuit for
an “economy” radiogram published in
NZ about 50 years ago!).
Roger Lowry,
via email.
Error in home
theatre article
I am a subscriber to the magazine
and I noticed the following apparent
errors in the “Home Theatre Video
Projector Survey” article in the August 2006 issue. On page 14, in the
paragraph titled “Scanning method”,
the text states:
(1) “On your television set, half the
lines (called a field) are displayed 50
times a second (Hertz) and then the
other half are woven in at 50 times
per second. . .”
(2) “In PAL we have two interlaced
siliconchip.com.au
‘Moon Shots were faked’ idea
came from USA
First let me say that your Publisher’s Letters and the Maibag
section are, like the rest of SILICON
CHIP, always stimulating.
But now let me say that this
month’s (October) ‘PL’ deserves a
small “oops”. I don’t know if your
bias is of the ‘fixed’ or ‘self’ varieties but it was very evident. The US
has many good things about it but
it also has many bad! One of these
is its apparent need to infect other
cultures with its mores. Where do
you think the ‘Moon shots were
faked’ idea came from?
50Hz displays or 25 complete pictures
in each second”.
This did not seem right and after
much thought the first statement is
incorrect. With 625-line TV signals,
the first field of a frame occurs at 25
per second in a time period of 1/50th
of a second (the odd lines). The second
field takes the next 1/50th of a second
(the even lines), to give a frame rate of
25 frames per second – as the second
quote states.
Thus to be correct, the first statement should read “On your television
set, half the lines (called a field) are
displayed in a 50th of a second and
then the other half are woven in during
the next 50th of a second . . .”
David Williams,
Hornsby, NSW.
Tips on restoring 78 RPM discs
I was very interested in the article
in the September 2006 issue of SILICON
CHIP, detailing ways of re-mastering
LPs and removing the various forms of
surface noise inherent in them, while
transferring them to CD.
I began tinkering with this sort of
thing after reading a SILICON CHIP
article about seven or eight years ago,
describing a program called DC-Art (or
Diamond Cut 32) which was designed
for audio restoration. My interest was
in restoring a very large library of 78
and 80 RPM recordings which I had
accumulated over the years and I
bought a copy of DC-Art, then a later
version, DC Millennium (1999), then
DC5 (2002) and finally, DC Live 6 in
siliconchip.com.au
A quick look at the net will show
you that, like the Christian right’s
ideas about religion and “Intelligent Design”, the evangelists for
this crazy idea come from the USA
itself. We are now so attached to
that culture, that a large number of
otherwise intelligent people believe
anything that vocal folk from that
country tell them.
Mind you, blaming the extreme
left (with all its faults), when the
real culprits promoting these things
in the USA seem to be more aligned
to the right, will not help.
Bruce Bowman,
via email.
2004. Each program is a big advance
on the one before. As an example, DC6
has a 20-band graphic equaliser with
some invaluable pre-sets, compared to
the 10-band equaliser in Millennium
and DC5.
I note that John Clarke describes
using Nero 6 and its Wave Editor for
removing noise from LPs and it certainly does that very successfully with
45s and LPs. I have tried using Wave
Editor in Nero 7 Premium to clean up
78s but I find that DC6 is more flexible
for these older discs – not only giving
greater control but also providing a
valuable group of presets which make
the job easier.
In addition, DC6 has a major advantage for someone working with 78 and/
or 80 RPM discs, in that it has a speed
conversion effect which allows a 78 to
be played at 45, or even 33, RPM into
the computer hard drive; and then to
be converted to 78 speed – invaluable when it is so difficult to buy a 78
turntable these days.
Even better, DC6 has a fine-tuned
pitch-control, which recognises that
many 78s and 80s were recorded at
speeds varying by 2 RPM or so, either
way. I use an ancient but still functional Dual 1019 4-speed turntable,
so I don’t need the speed conversion
but the pitch control in DC6 has
improved a number of discs which
are “off-speed” even further than the
mechanical speed variation on the
turntable can correct.
Some of the old discs have been
loved to death but it’s amazing how
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
November 2006 5
Mailbag: continued
they clean up once you get the hang
of using the program.
John notes in his article that the
RIAA curve built into most preamps
is not suitable for 78s and this becomes very clear when you try using a
standard amplifier preamp to boost the
signal between pickup and sound card.
For a start, the bass is overwhelming
and emphasises the rumble built into
many old recordings. While DC6 has a
frequency-variable rumble filter which
can deal with this, it’s better not to
have it there in the first place because
of the way it loads up the signal.
So I have tried what I am told is
a controversial technique, recommended by tracertek.com, who are
involved with the DC products. They
market a small preamp which amplifies the signal from the pickup without
equalisation and I have found, particularly on 80 RPM and very old 78s, it
works very well. Their suggestion is to
record to the hard drive, unequalised,
and then use the playback correction
curves provided in DC6 to introduce
whatever equalisation works best with
that particular record.
I am not a technical person and
friends who are far more expert than I
have questioned the use of this preamp,
6V to 12V car radio
conversion
I refer to the September 2006
“Ask SILICON CHIP” item regarding
changing a 6V car radio to 12V. I
remember doing this about 40 years
ago. Three things need to be done.
The first, as M. S. says, is to get a
12V vibrator. The next is to get out
the valve data books and check the
heater currents for all the valves
and work out the best matching arrangement to connect the heaters in
a series/parallel circuit across 12V.
The third is to rewind the vibrator
transformer primary. I was fortunate
with this as the transformer laminations came apart quite easily and the
transformer winding had not been
varnished too heavily. Normally, the
primary is wound on the outside so
the secondary doesn’t need to be
6 Silicon Chip
saying it will introduce distortion,
because its output is too high and will
overload the sound card. I have not
experienced distortion or apparent
overload when using the preamp but
I must admit the unequalised sound
really is weird to listen to. However
it comes good after finding the right
equalisation and in the end produces
pretty good results to the CD.
I have several 78 pickup cartridges,
which give some variation in stylus
size, to match the variations in groove
diameter found in old records. But the
cartridge that works best for me is an
Ortofon OM78. It tracks beautifully
at 2g or less and seems untroubled by
warped records although DC6 even has
a way of correcting these.
John Tingle,
Port Macquarie, NSW.
Comment: using a high-gain unequalised preamp running from a low battery supply risks signal overload from
the cartridge on loud music passages,
although it may not overload the
sound card input.
Historical TV sets
I have a Rank Arena C-2251 (NEC
Chassis) that is still working although
the blue gun is a bit weak. I would like
disturbed. My memory of vibrator
circuits is a bit hazy but I think the
primary is centre-tapped. The aim
is to change the turns ratio, so after
counting the turns as the original
primary comes off, half the turns
need to go back on and I seem to
remember using a slightly heavier
gauge wire. I was fortunate when
I did this as I was working in a
workshop that did motor winding
at the time.
Bill Adams,
via email.
Comment: unfortunately, your
method would be too involved for
most restorers as they would not
have access to valve data and would
not be able to rewind a vibrator primary. The 6V regulator method has
the virtue of simplicity and requires
no modifications to the radio.
to be rid of it but it seems a shame to
destroy a small piece of Australian TV
history (especially as it still works).
If anybody would like it they would
be very welcome to it. I am in Adelaide. Please contact me at researchnurse<at>iprimus.com.au
LPG production in Australia
is well in excess of demand
I read with interest your Publisher’s Letter on natural gas in the
September 2006 issue and hope to
clarify some of the information you
cited about LPG.
The Federal Government subsidy for
LPG conversion is expected (based on
industry estimates) to result in around
80,000 installations by the end of 2006
and up to 120,000 installations per
annum during 2007 and 2008, then
moderating in subsequent years. Over
the life of the grant scheme to 2014,
it is estimated that around 750,000
vehicles will be fitted with LPG, leading to over 1.25 million vehicles being
LPG-fuelled.
Also, the factory-fitted LPG vehicles
that are eligible for a smaller grant
could add a further 250,000 LPG vehicles by 2014. That would mean a
significant proportion of motorists –
over 1.5 million vehicles (10% of the
car park) would have access to LPG,
resulting in a saving of some three billion litres of petrol and further reducing Australia’s reliance on imported
crude oil and refined fuel.
LPG in Australia is produced from
extraction from “wet” natural gas or
from the refining of crude oil. Over
80% of the Australian LPG production comes from the “wet” gas extraction process and only around 20%
is sourced from the refineries. Major
naturally occurring LPG production
sources include North West Shelf, Bass
Strait and Cooper Basin.
Australia currently exports around
3 billion litres of LPG and this is
forecast to grow to over 4 billion by
the end of 2008 on the back of further
developments in natural gas production. ABARE has forecast a significant
surplus of LPG to 2020 and the likelihood that supply will exceed demand
for around 50 years.
While CNG is also a resource that
could and should be used to further reduce our vehicle fuel reliance, it does
siliconchip.com.au
have some issues in smaller vehicles.
CNG passenger vehicles are used in
the US and Europe and have been trialled here in Australia but their wider
use has been hampered by the lack of
infrastructure. Only about 25 public
refuelling facilities exist in Australia
compared to the 3240 LPG outlets
amongst the 6500 service stations.
Range is another issue and most
CNG passenger vehicles are only capable of 200-250km before refuelling
is required. Home refuelling devices
are being used in the US but can take
up to 16 hours to refuel a completely
empty tank. This would be OK for a
vehicle that’s used to travel from the
suburbs to the city and back again
each day but would not be suitable
for inter-city use.
Installing a large volume CNG refuelling facility (required for public use)
is also costly because of the high compression and storage requirements,
meaning a cost of around $500,000
plus per site. Recovering these costs
on each cubic metre of CNG sold can
add a significant amount and reduces
the overall CNG benefit. The leasing
and operating cost of a home refuelling unit could also result in a similar
benefit reduction.
Efficiency when running a vehicle
on CNG is also reduced compared to
petrol and requires additional timing modules to be installed or other
modifications to bring performance up
to a similar level. Ford trialled a CNG
Falcon wagon some years back but this
required engine modifications, including increased compression ratios and
ignition timing requirements. This car
also needed two under-floor tanks and
one large tank mounted behind the seat
to give a range close to petrol. This option did not receive much consumer
support and so was scrapped.
CNG has similar qualities to diesel
and with reasonably minor modifications, can deliver a similar outcome,
which is why most CNG trials have
been with larger diesel vehicles and in
particular government-owned urban
buses. These have been combined with
depot-based refuelling infrastructure
to deliver reasonable outcomes.
A number of trials are now concentrating efforts on using LNG stored in
cryogenic cylinders in heavy vehicles,
as these have extended ranges. If these
siliconchip.com.au
Better circuit for suppressed
zero meter
In “Ask SILICON CHIP” in the September 2006 issue, a correspondent
(P. F.) asks for an expanded scale
voltmeter. In my estimation, your
answer is useless! While the zener
diode works by suppressing the zero
as stated, it also works as a very
good thermometer. A much better
system to use, if you want repeatability, was described in “Circuit
Notebook” in the June 1995 issue.
The only point not mentioned
in that article is that the tabs of the
7805/7905 should be thermally
bonded together. The only other
components required are two ferrite beads on the supply rails if the
voltmeter is being used near any
transmitter.
Tests I have done show no change
in meter reading if the regulators
are placed in melting ice water and
are successful and if vehicle manufacturers support such developments,
then a number of freight carry vehicles
could be switched to natural gas. As
these vehicles can consume up to
55l/100km, this would be a significant
additional saving on diesel use but
infrastructure still needs to be developed. The Federal Government had a
scheme in place previously covering
half the refuelling site cost but only a
few took up the offer.
At this stage LPG is still in my opin-
then removed and placed in boiling
water! I have been using this system
since (I think) the mid-70s, not long
after 3-terminal regulators become
available.
Secondly, on page 95 of the same
edition (September 2006), some
poor beginner IS going to kill a perfectly good meter by connecting it
up as an ammeter as described! For
an ammeter to continue to read the
current (repeatably) as calibrated,
it must have four separate connections to the shunt: two on the
outside ends for the high current,
and two separate connections for
the voltage (Low/Meter current)
connections.
Wal Douglas,
Marian, Qld.
Comment: you are right – the June
1995 circuit is a good solution but
we had long forgotten it. Here it is
again.
ion the only “readily available” fuel
alternative but I would like to think
that Australian ingenuity will overcome the barriers to the use of CNG,
LNG and other alternatives to petrol
and diesel use in the near future.
More information on LPG is available at our web sites: www.lpgaustralia.
com.au and www.lpgautogas.com.au
Phil Westlake,
Industry Development Manager,
LPG Australia.
www.lpgaustralia.com.au
November 2006 7
As production of film cameras continues to shrink, it comes as no
surprise to see the electronic ‘majors’, such as Sony and Panasonic,
grasp an opportunity to feed the swelling demand for digital single
lens reflexes, known to the in-crowd as DSLRs.
Barrie Smith reports his
experience with the
Sony Alpha A100
camera.
Sony’s new
10-megapixel
Black Beauty
8 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
T
he advent of the Sony Alpha
A100 was signalled well in advance with a torrent of chatter
in the tech press. Then it was shown
to Australian journalists both in Japan
and North Queensland; however, it
was some weeks before production
models began to do the rounds.
At first sight, the A100 looks like an
SLR. Pick it up and it feels like one,
with most of the controls where you’d
expect them but ardent fans of film
SLR cameras will be dismayed to find
it doesn’t always work like an SLR!
The camera is solid, with a magnesium-alloy front cover panel and
bottom plate mounted onto a diecast
magnesium front chassis. With battery
and memory card loaded and with the
f3.5-5.6/18-70mm Sony lens attached
to the A100, the scales register 790
grams, so carrying it on a trip would
not be a great burden.
Oversize A3
Specs-wise, the camera is well up
to market expectations, packing 10.2
million pixels onto its CCD. If you size
your images at 225 dpi (dots per inch)
for printing, its maximum image size
of 3872 x 2592 pixels will give you a
44 x 29cm print.
The A100 uses interchangeable
lenses, a factor which explains the
enthusiasm evident in the Sony and
Panasonic camps for the DSLR sell-on
factor – you can never have enough
lenses!
Viewing is via an optical reflex
finder turret (just like an SLR) or via
The 23.6 x 15.8mm Sony Super HAD
(hole accumulated diode) CCD chip –
at 10.2 megapixels it’s not the biggest
around these days (see last page!) but
it is significantly larger than many of
its competitors.
the generous rear 6.4cm LCD screen
which also acts as your gateway to
the menu options. The CCD area is
23.6 x 15.8mm, similar to the APSC film format (0.66 of the 35mm
film frame’s area) while the BIONZ
image-processing engine uses an RGB
primary colour filter.
With an APS-C sized CCD area, a
lens that is nominally 50mm in focal
length (35mm SLR-speak) is actually
33mm. When using Maxxum/Dynax
lenses this shrinking factor has to
be taken into account; telephotos
get longer, wide-angles become narrower.
Control
The arrangement of external controls is a little different to other cameras but easily grasped in a shooting
situation. Viewed from behind, the
power switch is at the left edge. Above
it is a function dial which gives you
direct access to ISO speeds (up to ISO
1600), white balance settings, D-Range
optimiser, colour mode selector, auto
and manual focus mode, flash and
metering modes. A tiny button in the
centre of the function dial fires up
the rear LCD screen, giving access to
the options.
Now some explanations need to
be made.
D-Range optimiser: There are three
choices: off, adjust image brightness
and contrast of a scene, optimise
contrast and colour. These two tweaks
appear to vary the dynamic range of
an image; using either will add about
half a second to the camera’s imageprocessing time. Each is a short cut for
those unwilling to fiddle with images
in software.
Colour mode selector: This alters the
‘colour space’ of the camera, in other
words, tunes the colour tone/white
balance/contrast/saturation/sharpness
that best suits your subject.
Each setting can make your pictures
either more vivid (greater colour saturation in skies, greenery etc), improve
portraits (enhances skin tones), landscape, sunsets, night views or create
a black and white rendering – and
there’s Adobe RGB.
If you’re not going near any imageediting software, choose any of the
above except for Adobe RGB. If you
are going to Photoshop your pictures
later, set the camera to Adobe RGB.
Focus modes: This offers settings for
Sony realises that
buying the A100
camera body is only the
first step: there is a very
large after-market for
lenses and accessories
– and has catered for it,
with much more
promised!
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 9
At left is a close-up of the Sony
Alpha’s lens mounting arrangement
with the lens itself above.
Photographers used to the KonicaMinolta A-type mount may recognise
that it’s identical – in fact these lenses
can be used with the Sony Alpha.
single-shot auto focus, continuous AF
and manual focus. The focusing area
can also be specified, from a 9-zone
grid to spot AF.
Metering modes: Exposure determination can be made via a 40-segment
matrix, from a centre-weighted area
or a central spot reading.
On the right side of the camera, on
the top deck you will find the mode
dial. Here you can select auto operation, Program auto, aperture and
shutter priority, manual shooting plus
a number of scene selection presets
(portraits, sports, sunset, landscapes,
night portraits, macro).
Sprinkled across the camera’s top
surface and rear panel are buttons to
access the on-screen menu, preview
stored images, a delete facility, single frame and continuous shooting
options (up to six shots at 3 fps), an
exposure lock and a manual exposure
over-ride.
Immediately behind the lens on the
camera’s body is a 2-position slide that
switches from manual to auto focus.
While viewing the rear screen, most
options are selected via a 4-way rocker
and central confirmation button. The
shutter button is in its natural position
over to the far right on the camera’s
top surface.
Directly in front and barely 5mm
from the shutter button is the control
dial. At this point you need to view
the bright array of settings through the
optical reflex turret viewfinder and
vary the lens aperture (f stop) while
staying with a fixed shutter speed or
vice versa – otherwise known as aperture and shutter priority.
Here’s the back and top of the Sony Alpha A100 to show the
main controls. While most of the controls are easy to operate
and reasonably self-explanatory, I found the control dial and
shutter button too close – I continually changed settings without
wanting to. I guess in time that would be less of a problem.
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.mgram.com.au
Specifications: Sony Alpha DSLR-A100
Sensor: ............................... 23.6 x 15.8mm interline interlaced CCD.
Pixel Count: ........................ 10.2 million effective pixels.
ADC: ................................... 12-bit.
Image Sizes: ....................... 3872 x 2592; 2896 x 1936; 1920 x 1280.
Image Formats: .................. RAW, RAW+JPEG, JPEG (fine and standard).
Lens Mount: ....................... Sony Alpha (also compatible with Minolta A-type bayonet lenses)
Anti-shake Effect: ............... Equivalent to 2-3.5 f stops in shutter speed.
Anti-Dust: ........................... Charge protection coating on low-pass filter and CCD-shift mechanism.
Auto Focus: ........................ TTL CCD line sensors (9-points, 8 lines with centre cross-hair sensor). Predictive focus control
for
moving subjects. Auto-tracking focus point display.
AF area selection: ............... Wide AF area; spot AF area (centre); focus area selection (any of 9).
Focus modes: ..................... Single-shot AF; direct manual focus; continuous AF; automatic AF; manual focus.
Shooting Modes: ................ Auto; Program AE (with shift); aperture and shutter priority AE; manual.
Scene Modes: ..................... Portrait, landscape, macro, sports, sunset, night portrait.
Sensitivity: .......................... Auto, ISO 80/100/200/400/800/1600.
Metering Modes: ................ Multi-segment (40 segment); centre-weighted; spot.
Shutter Speeds: .................. 30-1/4000 second, Bulb.
Flash X-sync: ...................... 1/160 sec; 1/125 sec (with Super SteadyShot on).
Flash Modes: ...................... Auto; fill flash; red-eye reduction; wireless/remote off-camera flash; rear curtain flash sync; high
speed sync; slow sync with AE lock..
speed sync; slow sync with AE lock.
Flash range at f 2.8: ............ 1.4-8.6m.
Colour Space: ..................... sRGB, Adobe RGB.
Viewfinder: ......................... Eye-level fixed pentaprism.
LCD Monitor: ...................... 6.4cm (230,000 pixels).
Drive Modes: ...................... single-frame, continuous (RAW: 3 fps, up to 6 frames total. RAW+JPEG: 3 fps, up to 3 frames.
JPEG: 3fps, unlimited)..
JPEG: 3fps, unlimited).
Interface: ............................ USB 2.0; AV output (PAL/NTSC); DC input; remote terminal.
Storage: .............................. Compact Flash Types I/II; Memory Stick Duo/Pro Duo via CF adapter; Microdrive.
Power: ................................ Rechargeable lithium-ion rechargeable battery; AC adapter (optional).
Dimensions: ....................... 133 x 95 x 71mm.
Weight (body only):............. 545 grams.
Supplied Accessories:
Strap, body cap, USB and AV cables, battery charger, rechargeable 7.2V/11.5Wh lithium-ion
battery, Memory Stick CF adaptor, CD-ROM of software (Picture Motion Browser (Windows),
Image Data Converter SR (Windows/Mac)).
Prices: ................................ Body only - $1499. Body and 18-70 mm lens - $1749.
Body plus 18-70mm and 75-300mm lenses $1999.
Body plus 18-70mm and 75-300mm lenses $1999
Distributor: ......................... Sony Australia 1300 720 071 or www.sony.com.au/dslr
I found the proximity of the control
dial to the shutter button to be annoying. The dial’s knurled surface often
fell naturally to a probing forefinger
when I was searching instead for the
shutter button. And why in heaven’s
name is the shutter button black, small
and nearly flush with the surface of
the camera body?
The A100 accepts CompactFlash
Types I and II as well as Memory
Stick Duo cards and Microdrive, the
latter sliding into the same slot via a
CF adaptor. Neither card is supplied
with the camera, a perfect lever for
you to pressure the sales assistant in
hammering down the overall purchase
price.
RAW format
Experienced and discerning digital
12 Silicon Chip
photographers have embraced the use
of the RAW format in recent times.
Without question it’s the best way to
head in the quest for superb digital
images; JPEG just isn’t in the race.
As you shoot with the A100, you
have the option to write the images
to the memory card as RAW files solo,
RAW files plus matching JPEGs – and
as JPEGs only in two qualities.
To unpack the RAW images is a
separate, post-shoot chore in software.
Photoshop CS2 will do it and let you
save the image as a Digital Negative
(Adobe’s DNG format), as a JPEG, TIFF
or Photoshop native file.
A CD in the camera kit carries
Sony’s Image Data Converter SR application which works in similar fashion
and saves an image as a JPEG, TIFF or
in the native SR format. Both applica-
tions display a tri-coloured histogram
to give you a graphic representation of
RGB brightness levels.
If you want to move forward in this
digital picture business RAW is the
only show in town.
When you shoot the original picture
is saved as RAW data, with no presets
such as the prevailing colour temperature, colour balance etc locked in.
When converting a RAW file to a
TIFF or JPEG for a later touch up in
editing software you have access to
contrast, brightness, shadow levels,
saturation, exposure.
Image metadata is also saved in
RAW. You can access data on the
lens used at the time of the shoot and
its f stop, shutter speed, exposure
mode, time of day as well as other
parameters.
siliconchip.com.au
Some cameras, especially the upper end compacts, will chew up time
in writing RAW files to the card. The
A100, with a hefty built-in buffer
swallowed the RAW images with no
complaint. I shot pictures two at a time
as quickly as I could hit the button,
the buffer slowing down only after
each pair; in continuous mode the
three frames per second speed was a
revelation.
The speed is even more surprising
when you consider that the maximum
image size of 3872 x 2592 pixels can
represent a RAW image of anywhere
between 9 and 12MB, paired with a
JPEG that varied between 3-5 MB.
Vive la differences!
Digital SLRs use the familiar turret
viewfinder that takes an optical split
from the reflex mirror before the image
hits the CCD. Ideal for viewing and
even manual focusing, it’s a bright,
clear display, viewable in bright sunlight. The rear LCD screen is used
only for viewing your captured shots
and can suffer from washout in bright
conditions.
This is possibly the biggest shock
for newcomers to DSLR technology.
With the recently released Olympus
E-330 DSLR, you can view your subject matter before and during shooting, via a ‘live’ display on the rear
LCD screen. This is a first and will
be welcomed by digital newbies who
have become accustomed to viewing
a live image on the LCD in their $300
digi compacts.
So the Sony A100 is still back with
the rest of the gang; the turret finder is
Sony’s RAW application – Image Data Converter SR – which converts images to
TIFFs, JPEGs etc. Range of control over the image’s contrast, brightness, shadow
levels, saturation, exposure and much more is extreme.
used for viewing and shooting while
the rear LCD is only for post-shooting
evaluation.
There is one bright note: the camera kicks off the AF action as soon
as you look through the viewfinder.
Simply bring your eye to the finder
and the focus system starts working
away. It also works if you move your
finger close to the eyepiece! Carrying
the camera body carelessly could
also easily trigger the AF system into
battery-sapping action!
Steady on
A relatively weighty camera that
wears a longish lens cries out for an
image stabilising system, preferably an
optical one. With Super SteadyShot
Sony has carried over Minolta’s excellent anti-shake approach that operates
by mounting the CCD on a base that
constantly moves in opposition to
movement of the camera body itself.
The major benefit is that there is no
need for each lens to be stabilised, as
in other camera systems.
Sony claims that you can wind
down the shutter speed by anywhere
between a factor of x2 or x3.5. In other
words, a best-case scenario would let
you shoot and capture sharp shots
at 1/150th of a second instead of
1/500th, using the digital equivalent
of a 500mm lens.
There is an indicator in the view-
Two Into One Do Go
Until a few years ago mergers in any sector of Japanese
industry were rare occurrences. But global economic shifts
have forced many companies to face hard facts and join the
enemy or better still, swallow them!
In January 2003, Konica and Minolta merged. Both had
fine reputations for camera and lens design and manufacture.
Both had entered the digital camera market and failed. They
hoped the merger “could propel them into the big league of
office machine makers.” What a come down!
But as time wore on, neither Minolta nor Konica were
able to leverage their strong brands in film photography into
the hotly competitive digital camera market, dominated by
Canon, Sony and Olympus. The merger came at an opportune time for Sony, ambitious to proceed with DSLRs but
lacking street cred in the photo market: the company was
recognised as a premium maker of CCDs for its compact
siliconchip.com.au
digicams but was forced to buy in Zeiss lenses to give it a
marketing advantage.
July 2005 saw Sony and Konica-Minolta agree to jointly
develop DSLRs. Sony would make the imaging sensors and
the internal processors while the other entity would deliver its
acknowledged camera design skills, along with their optical
and lens mount prowess. Minolta possessed considerable
eminence in the latter as well as excellent anti-shake technology built into the camera body, not each individual lens, like
Canon and Nikon’s models. Sony of course has immense
skills in product planning and manufacturing.
The result is that the new line of Sony DSLRs incorporate the Konica-Minolta lens mount system and anti-shake
functions. The cameras can accept Konica-Minolta optics
as well as a special prestige line of lenses manufactured by
Zeiss in Japan.
November 2006 13
finder of how steady the camera is held
while shooting.
No more dust problems
Dust is a big bugbear with DSLRs
if you need to constantly fit and refit
lenses in hostile environments. With
the A100 a special indium tin oxide
anti-dust coating on the CCD reduces
static charge build-up which repels
dust particles from its surface. Like
the Olympus system, the CCD also
activates high-speed vibrations that
dislodge particles each time the A100
is powered on or off. Believe me, an
anti-dust system is an essential for a
DSLR!
Accessories
Three screen menus for the Sony
Alpha A100. The top allows you to
set the auto focus zones, centre the
ISO and the bottom sets Adobe RGB
paramaters (for Photoshop users).
In typical SLR fashion, once you buy
a camera the next step is to furnish it
with a brace of accessories and Sony
has not missed a trick to feed this
appetite.
There is a range of compatible
flashes and lighting systems that attach to the camera’s hot shoe. Suitable
for use on-body or off-camera, two
flashes are available in Guide Number
36 and 56 output power. There’s also
a Macro Twin Flash with adjustable
arms and a ring light for ultra close
macro shooting.
Lenses? Heaps of ’em, from macros
to a 16mm (35mm SLR equivalent)
fish-eye to a 500mm mirror lens as well
as a bunch of zooms, the longest drawing a 35 SLR equivalent of 18-200mm.
Tele and wide angle converters? Yes.
The camera will accept lenses from the
Maxxum/Dynax lens mount system.
At this stage there is also small group
of high performance, high ticket Carl
Zeiss lenses, two examples of which
each exceed the cost of the A100’s
camera body.
End notes
Sony has done its homework,
without doubt but it would not have
created the fine camera it has without
the Konica and Minolta heritage.
The review camera was delivered
with the 18-70mm zoom and knowing
that budget optics sometimes lack a
little in the distortion department, I
checked it for this problem.
I was not surprised to find that the
wide end of the zoom produced barrel distortion at the image edges and
pincushion distortion at the tele end.
This is par for the course for this level
of lens and of concern only to those
who shoot a lot of rectilinear subjects,
like stamps, documents, framed paintings and similar.
The picture quality is beyond
reproach for a DSLR at this price
level. Shooting with the RAW format
I pulled some remarkably sharp, naturally colour images, quickly, with no
fuss. What more could you ask?
There is little in the A100 that
would concern committed photographers, either in the control layout or
ergonomics. It’s an SLR – of the digital
kind! And a very well executed one
at that!
SC
That’s not a camera. THIS is a camera!
While this article was in production our attention was drawn to this
as-yet unreleased Seitz D3 6 x 17
panoramic camera which offers a
160 megapixel resolution.
Yes, you read that correctly: 160
megpixels. That’s 7500 pixels vertical and 21,250 pixels horizontal
(compare that to the Sony Alpha
above). This results in an uncompressed file size of about 950MB.
And it can capture 300MB in just
one second (think how long it takes
your PC to copy a 300MB file!)
With an ISO/ASA range of 500 to
10000, the Seitz D3 has 48-bit colour
depth. Its preview screen is 640 x
480 pixels – the largest colour camera screen yet on the market and can
14 Silicon Chip
allow in-camera previewing, editing,
zooming and image control without
having to download to a computer.
When the Seitz D3 is released in
January next year, it will be available
in both mobile (!) and studio models.
And the price?
Glad you asked! It will set you back
around $50,000 give or take – and
remember, you’re still going to have
to add a lens or twenty. And with a
camera of this impressive quality,
you’re going to want a Schneider or
Rodenstock (which Seitz recommend)
or some other $$$$$$$ model!
Oh yeah: don’t forget a big memory
card. The old 512MB just won’t quite
cut it – though the camera does have a
16MB flash memory for preview pics.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 15
JVC KD-AVX2
Revolutionise your in-car music
If you’ve had the suspicion that despite the publicity surrounding
amplifiers, subwoofers, split speaker systems and all the rest, incar entertainment advancements of late have been sadly lacking,
well, you’re not alone. In fact, apart from the major advance of
MP3-reading CD players and stackers, it’s easy to think that not
much has happened. Until now.
A DVD movie is easily viewable
by a front seat passenger and a second
screen can be added for rear passengers.
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Review by Julian Edgar
W
F
ith the release of JVC’s KD-AVX2, there’s now
a single DIN-sized package that’s quite extraordinary.
irst-up, it’s a conventional AM/FM radio MP3-compatible CD – except it looks better than most after-market
units with its black ‘piano’ finish and the lack of garish
silver highlights and vacuum fluorescent displays that seem
to afflict so many head units these days.
Second, there’s a built-in 3.5-inch colour LCD screen.
This means that not only are all the menus able to be displayed in large writing against contrasting backgrounds,
you can play and view DVDs – yes, the KD-AVX2 is also
a DVD player. (And before you wonder at the use of that,
the KD-AVX2 can also run a second larger screen, eg, for
back-seat kids – so you can use the head unit to easily
monitor what’s showing on their screen.)
In addition, the inbuilt LCD can show the picture from a
reversing camera, automatically selecting the camera input
when you place the car in reverse gear!
Finally – and get this – the KD-AVX2 can play MP3
files recorded on DVD. You can literally have your whole
music collection on a few DVDs able to be stored in the
glove box!
Add to this a built-in 4-channel amplifier, a huge number of inputs and outputs (including line level audio and
subwoofer), a remote control and an almost intuitive ease
of use and you’re looking at what’s simply one of the most
impressive bits of car audio/video gear we’ve ever seen.
Not only is the JVC KD-AVX2 an AM/FM radio, MP3
compatible CD player and DVD player with built-in LCD
screen, but it can also play MP3 encoded files burnt to DVD!
That makes for a complete audio-visual entertainment unit,
all in a standard DIN-sized enclosure. The background
wallpaper can be varied – this is the sunset.
LCD Screen
It’s easy to be dismissive of the small colour LCD – isn’t
it much too small to be viewable? The answer to that is:
not in most cars. The car in which the pictured installation occurred placed the unit 70cm from the driver’s eyes.
That’s similar to viewing my 69cm (diagonal) lounge room
TV at 4 metres instead of the 3 metres at which I normally
view it – no big deal.
This promotional JVC graphic really makes the point: from
CDs with (say) 16 songs, to MP3-encoded CDs with 100
songs, to a “giga MP3” DVD with 1000 songs. Even at the
highest MP3 sampling rates and with long songs, you’re
still looking at 500 or more songs on one DVD – that’s more
than 30 albums. Not enough? Well, just burn another MP3
DVD and put it in the glove box!
siliconchip.com.au
The number of set-up functions is surprisingly large. As
shown here, the output levels of each speaker can be set
on a plus/minus 1dB basis. A white noise tone that moves
from speaker to speaker is generated during this process.
The faceplate motors into a horizontal position for disc
insertion and ejection. The faceplate can be removed for
security and motor-driven to three different angles for
better viewing.
November 2006 17
intuitive in use and many of the buttons are rarely needed.
In fact, for the driver, the remote is near useless.
However, rear passengers can use it to control the DVD
playback when they’re watching the DVD on a second
screen.
In use about the only downer of the KD-AVX2 is that
when CD/DVD is selected, it takes a full 30 seconds before
the disc starts to play.
Set-Up Menus
It might look like there’s lots of connections but these
are just the line level inputs and outputs! The connection
flexibility of the JVC KD-AVX2 allows it to function as a
standalone AM/FM/CD/DVD/MP3 player or work with
additional amplifiers, audio-visual inputs and LCD
screens. Note the vent for the cooling fan at right.
The display is also very sharp and bright. There are no
problems reading any written data (eg, track numbers,
the time, set-up menus etc) and even when a front seat
passenger is viewing a movie, visibility for them is quite
acceptable. And the advantage is that the LCD fits within
the single DIN package – you don’t need to use a large
motorised screen that, in its extended position, will almost
certainly cover dashboard air vents or controls.
The KD-AVX2 features a dual-zone DVD facility, where
rear passengers can view a second screen and listen to the
audio on headphones while front seat passengers listen to
the radio or another audio input.
The screen can be motor-driven to three different angles,
cancelling reflections and allowing the unit to be mounted
low on the dash while still retaining good visibility.
A large number of set-up menus are provided. Amongst
other attributes, these allow you to:
• Separately adjust the brightness of the LCD when disc
or AV input are selected
• Change the ‘wallpaper’ background colour of the LCD
(this is a surprisingly effective and useful option – especially because as the unit is relatively plain, it allows the
switched-on appearance to be changed across a range of
style and colours to suit personal taste)
• Alter whether file tags (eg, MP3 song titles) scroll once
or continue to scroll
• Set the clock for 12 or 24-hour display
• Adjust the speaker size settings (small, large or none)
for each of the possible six speaker outputs
• Adjust the distance to each of the four main speakers
from 15 to 600cm in 15cm steps
• Adjust the individual speaker levels in 1dB increments
(a white noise test tone is provided during this set-up)
• Select from nine preset equalisation curves or 3 useradjustable curves (however you cannot tie the equalisation curve to a source [eg, radio] like you can with some
systems)
• Adjust the volume of each source separately so changes
in the master volume control position aren’t needed when
selecting a different source
• Adjust subwoofer line level output including level,
high pass filter and crossover point (80, 120 or 150Hz)
• Alter amplifier gain to limit power output when using
low power speakers.
All these are easy to set, however it should be noted
Operation
For many people, the KD-AVX2 will be the most complex
piece of car audio-visual gear they’ve ever used – that’s
certainly the case for this reviewer. However, despite having numerous set-up menus and possible adjustments, the
unit is very straightforward.
The main controls consist of two 4-way pushbutton
knobs. With these you can select the source (eg, radio or
DVD/CD), adjust the volume and select different radio
stations or tracks and albums. At the four corners of the
faceplate are four pushbuttons. These turn the unit on/off,
adjust the angle of the faceplate, eject the CD/DVD (the
whole faceplate motors forward to 90° to reveal the slot)
and detach the faceplate for security.
Additionally, there are four small pushbuttons that are
used to alter rarely adjusted parameters. The system works
very well, with the most commonly used controls the most
easily accessible.
A remote control is also included. However, in contrast
with the head unit, the remote has 36 buttons, many of
which have dual functions. The remote control is much less
18 Silicon Chip
Unlike the head unit, we
found the remote control hard
to use. However, it is useful for
controlling the DVD playback
if the head unit is working in
dual mode, where rear seat
occupants can watch a DVD
and listen on headphones
while those in the front listen
to the radio.
siliconchip.com.au
that two of the menus (Disc Setup 1 and Disc Setup 2) can
only be accessed when a disc is selected as the source and
for Disc Setup 2, when play has been stopped. Why this
is required (rather than being able to select these menus
whenever you want) is not clear and is one of the very few
control system glitches.
Both the input sources (eg, “rear vision camera”) and the
radio stations (eg, “ABC News Radio”) can be titled. The
title can comprise upper and lower case letters (and also
numbers) and while it’s time-consuming to put in a lot of
titles, again the procedure is straightforward.
Versatility
The KD-AVX2 can play CDs with MP3/WMA recorded
on CD-R, CD-RW, DVD-ROM, DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD+R,
and DVD+RW discs. (And of course it can play normal
old CDs too!)
The four-channel in-built amplifier has a claimed output of 20W RMS per channel at 0.8% THD. Clearly, if you
want to listen at high undistorted levels through inefficient
speakers, you’ll need one or more external amplifiers. Line
level outputs are provided for front left, front right, rear
left, rear right, centre and subwoofer. The centre speaker
output is included because the KD-AVX2 can provide
5.1-channel sound with Dolby Digital, Dolby ProLogic II
and DTS processing.
The KD-AVX2 is standard DIN size in width, depth and
height (182 x 52 x 160mm) but it uses a slightly higher than
standard (55mm) faceplate.
In this respect many other DIN radios are the same but
this is a dimension to check in your car before buying. So
that the faceplate can perform its motorised gymnastics for
disc insertion and variable viewing angles, the front of the
unit is designed to protrude slightly further forward than
a conventional radio.
Mass is 1.9kg – again about par for the DIN course. An
internal fan vent means the rear of the unit should not be
butted up flush against a surface.
Conclusion
We’ve left the best to last.
Considering that the KD-AVX2 replaces an AM/FM
radio, in-dash CD stacker, DVD player and small monitor
LCD screen, adds sophisticated set-up and display features
and has the unbeatable ability of playing back DVDs of
MP3 songs, the recommended retail price of $1199 seems
positively cheap.
But it gets even better: such is the retail competition in
this day and age that at the time of writing, you can buy the
KD-AVX2 for $789 plus postage from reputable (ie, have
excellent feedback records) sellers on eBay.
SC
And in fact, that’s just what this reviewer did…
IS IT LEGAL TO WATCH DVDs IN A MOVING VEHICLE?
Our interpretation of the Australian road rules suggest that it is not
legal in any state to install a video screen where it can be seen by the
driver, unless that screen is being used for navigation purposes or as
a driver’s aid (eg, as a reversing monitor, etc). It is possible to wire the
KD-AVX2 so that it cannot display while the vehicle is in motion but
that rather defeats its purpose. In a nutshell, the driver must not be
able to view the screen at all if it is showing any form of entertainment.
siliconchip.com.au
“MERLIN”
Safe
External
Switchmode
Power Supply
Practical and Versatile
Mini Broadcast
Audio Mixer
Broadcast Quality
with Operational Features
and Technical Performance identical
to full sized Radio Station Mixing Panels
Permanent Installation is not required, the “Merlin” is as easy as a
Stereo System to “Set Up”,all connections via Plugs and Sockets
The “Merlin” originally designed for Media Training use in High
Schools and Colleges is a remarkably versatile Audio Mixer
Applications: Media Training - Basic Audio Production - News
Room Mixer - Outside Broadcasts - Radio Program Pre Recording On-Air Mixer in small Radio Stations - “Disco Mixer”
The “Merlin” is an Affordable Professional Audio Product
Buy one for your School, College, Community Radio Station,
Ethnic Radio Broadcast Association or for yourself
For Details and Price, please contact us at
ELAN
Phone 08 9277 3500
AUDIO
Fax
08 9478 2266
2 Steel Court. South Guildford email sales<at>elan.com.au
www.elan.com.au
Western Australia 6055
Silicon Chip
Binders
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Keep Your Copies Safe With These Handy Binders
Price: $13.95 plus $7.00 p&p per order (buy five and get them
postage free). Available only in Australia.
Just fill in the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9939
2648; or ring (02) 9939 3295 & quote your credit card number.
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy 2097.
November 2006 19
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Build Your Own
Radar Speed Gun,
If you’re into any kind of racing – like cars, bikes, boats
or even horses – this project is for you. It’s a microwave
Doppler speed radar system, similar to the expensive gear
used by traffic police, only much cheaper. It can read
directly in km/h or mph for speeds up to 250km/h+.
MOST OF US ARE familiar with
the radar speed guns used by traffic
police to detect speeding motorists.
If you’ve been caught speeding yourself and have had to pay a hefty fine,
you probably don’t want to know any
more about them. But if you’re a car or
bike racing enthusiast, you may well
have wanted one of them yourself, so
you could measure the speed of cars
or bikes.
In these articles we’re going to show
26 Silicon Chip
you how to build a Radar Speed Gun
of your own – for much less than
the cost of a professional unit. It can
measure the speed of cars, bikes,
horses, runners or even boats with a
bit of ingenuity. It’s compact and light
in weight, can read directly in either
km/h (kilometres/hour) or mph (miles
per hour), and operates from 12V DC.
There’s also a hold switch to enable
you to freeze the reading.
The system is in two parts. There is
a microwave head unit
in a small shielded box
which is mounted on the
underside of a cylindrical antenna housing made from two
500g coffee cans joined end-to-end, to
form the radar gun assembly. This is
linked by a cable to a counter/display
unit housed in a UB1 jiffy box.
How it works
First of all, to get a good undersiliconchip.com.au
How Doppler Speed Radar Works
Pt.1
By JIM ROWE
Fig.1: the basic principle behind a Doppler radar speed gun.
standing of the basic principles of
Doppler speed radar, please read the
explanation and look at the diagram
in the accompanying panel. Once you
have that under your belt, you will be
siliconchip.com.au
When an ambulance, fire engine or
police car is speeding towards you with
its siren going, the frequency (or pitch)
of the siren sounds higher than its actual
frequency. That’s because as the vehicle
is moving towards you, it tends to “catch
up” with the sound waves – effectively
compressing them. Then when the vehicle
is speeding away from you, the frequency
of the siren sounds lower than its actual
frequency, because the movement of the
vehicle is now effectively stretching the
sound waves.
This is the so-called Doppler Effect,
named after Dutch physicist Christian
Doppler who first explained it around 1842.
This principle is used to measure the
speed of cars, bikes, boats and other
vehicles by Doppler speed radars, such
as the radar guns used by traffic police to
detect speeding motorists.
The basic idea is shown in the diagram of Fig.1. The radar gun is fixed in
position and transmits a narrow beam of
microwave radiation (with frequency Fo)
towards the moving vehicle. This outgoing
radiation propagates towards the vehicle
at the normal speed of electromagnetic
(EM) radiation in air – at 299,792,458m/s
(metres per second); ie, the same as the
speed of light (c).
Because the vehicle is moving towards
the radar gun, the effective frequency of
the microwave beam it “sees” is a little
higher than Fo. In fact, it’s actually Fo +
(Fo . v)/c where “v” is the vehicle speed. This
is the frequency of the microwave signal
reflected from the vehicle, back towards
the radar gun.
When this reflected signal is detected by
the microwave gun, its frequency is higher
again by the same amount (because it is
being effectively transmitted by the moving
vehicle). As a result, the frequency of the
reflected microwave signal returning to the
radar gun is given by:
Fr = Fo + 2(Fo . v )/c
In the radar gun, the reflected signal is
heterodyned with the outgoing microwave
signal, which generates the difference
frequency between the two. This difference
frequency is given by:
Fd = Fo - [Fo + 2(Fo . v)/c]
= 2(Fo . v)/c
= v(2Fo/c)
This is the Doppler frequency and it is directly proportional to the vehicle speed. For
example, if we use a microwave frequency
of 2.45GHz, the Doppler frequency turns
out to be 16.34 times the vehicle speed in
metres/second. So if the vehicle is travelling
at 60km/h, which is 16.6m/s, the Doppler
frequency will be close to 271Hz.
If the vehicle is moving away from the
radar gun instead of towards it, the reflected
microwave signal returning to the radar gun
has a frequency which is lower than the
outgoing frequency by exactly the same
amount. So when the two are heterodyned
together in the radar gun as before, the
Doppler frequency is exactly the same.
The radar gun is therefore able to
measure the speed of the vehicle quite accurately by feeding the Doppler frequency
to a counter. This counter can be made to
indicate the speed directly in km/h (or mph)
by adjusting its timebase or gating time to
allow for the scaling factor of 2Fo/c.
November 2006 27
Fig.2: this diagram shows the circuit blocks used in the Radar Speed Gun.
It consists of two main sections: a microwave head section and a counter &
display section.
ready to follow the block diagram of
the project itself, shown in Fig.2.
As you can see, the microwave head
section has a small UHF oscillator
to generate a low-power continuous
microwave signal with a frequency
of 2.45GHz (2450MHz). This signal is
then passed through a UHF amplifier,
to achieve a power level which is still
low but sufficient to give the unit good
Doppler range and sensitivity. The amplified 2.45GHz signal (Fo) is then fed
out to the microwave antenna, which
is just a very small 1/4-wave “whip”
inside the coffee-can gun barrel.
The 2.45GHz energy radiated from
the antenna is then directed out of
the open end of the barrel, towards
the vehicle we wish to measure. Microwave energy reflected back from
the vehicle returns down the barrel
to the antenna and is received as a
signal with a frequency Fr which will
be higher or lower than the outgoing
2.45GHz signal, depending on whether
the vehicle is moving towards the
radar gun or away from it.
This received signal Fr is then fed
into a mixer along with the original
signal Fo. As a result, the mixer’s output contains the difference between Fr
and Fo (ie, either Fo - Fr or Fr - Fo). This
is the Doppler signal, which is quite
low in amplitude but its frequency
is directly proportional to the vehicle’s speed. It is then passed through
a simple audio amplifier stage (the
Doppler preamp) to boost it in level
before sending it down the cable to
the counter/display section.
In the counter/display section, the
Doppler signal is amplified and passed
through an LP (low-pass) filter and then
converted into a train of narrow pulses
to give it a digital waveform. Its frequency is then measured and displayed
on the 3-digit LED readout.
The counter’s gating signal is derived from a 38kHz crystal oscillator
via a frequency divider chain, programmed to produce the correct gating
time to compensate for the Doppler
Fig.3: the microwave head section uses a 2.45GHz oscillator based on transistor Q1. This drives a microstrip line,
after which the signal is amplified by IC1 and fed to the antenna. The reflected signal is first fed to a mixer stage D1
to produce the Doppler signal and this is amplified by transistor Q2 and fed to pin 3 of CON1.
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
Microwave Head Unit
1 PC board, code DOPPLR1a,
51 x 64mm (EC8194)
1 piece of 0.3mm brass sheet, 89
x 76mm, for shield box
2 500g instant coffee tins, 129mm
diameter x 173mm long (with
one plastic cap, see text)
1 35mm length of 1.25mm diameter copper wire
1 ADCH-80A broadband RF
choke (RFC1)
1 PC-mount type A USB connector, (CON1)
Semiconductors
1 ERA-2SM wideband UHF amplifier (IC1)
1 BFP182T UHF NPN transistor,
SOT-143 package (Q1)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 1PS70SB82 UHF Schottky
diode, SOT-323 package (D1)
1 1N4148 diode (D2)
Capacitors
1 220mF 16V RB electrolytic
2 1mF 25V tantalum
4 10nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
5 10nF X7R ceramic, 1206 SMD
package
1 1nF COG ceramic, 1206 SMD
package
Resistors (0.25W carbon
composition, 1% unless specified)
1 1.5MW
1 470W
2 10kW
2 100W
1 1kW
1 100W 0805 SMD package
frequency/speed scaling factor – and
thus give a readout directly in km/h
or mph.
The divider programming is normally set for a gating time of 220ms
which gives a readout in km/h. But if a
readout in mph is needed instead, three
short tracks on the display PC board can
be cut and three alternative links fitted
to change the divider programming for
a gating time of 137ms.
Microwave head circuit
Now that you have an overall view
of what happens inside the Radar
Speed Gun, let’s work through the
siliconchip.com.au
Counter/Display Unit
1 PC board, code DOPPLR2a,
84 x 148mm (EC8195)
1 UB1 Jiffy box (158 x 95 x 53mm)
8 PC pins
1 mini rocker switch
1 35 x 53mm piece of red perspex sheet
4 25mm long M3 tapped spacers
4 6mm long M3 countersink head
machine screws
4 6mm long M3 round head machine screws
1 38kHz mini quartz crystal (X1)
1 PC-mount type A USB connector (CON1)
1 PC-mount 3.5mm stereo socket
(CON2)
1 PC-mount 2.5mm concentric
DC connector (CON3)
4 14-pin DIL IC sockets
4 16-pin DIL IC sockets
1 USB Type A to Type A cable
Semiconductors
3 FND500 common cathode LED
displays (DISP1,DISP2,DISP3)
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC1)
1 4093B quad Schmitt NAND
gate (IC2)
1 4027B dual JK flipflop (IC3)
1 4553B 3-decade counter (IC4)
1 4511B BCD to 7-segment decoder (IC5)
1 4069 hex inverter (IC6)
1 4020B 14-stage binary counter
(IC7)
1 4073B triple 3-input AND gate
(IC8)
3 PN200 PNP transistors
(Q1,Q2,Q3)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 1N4004 silicon diode (D1)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D2)
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 220mF 16V RB electrolytic
2 100mF 16V RB electrolytic
2 47mF 16V RB electrolytic
3 10mF 16V RB electrolytic
6 100nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
1 100nF MKT metallised polyester
2 47nF MKT metallised polyester
1 22nF metallised polyester
1 10nF metallised polyester
1 4.7nF metallised polyester
1 3.3nF metallised polyester
1 2.2nF metallised polyester
2 1nF metallised polyester
1 330pF disc ceramic
2 27pF NPO disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless
specified)
1 2.2MW 0.5W carbon film
1 1MW
2 4.7kW
1 330kW
3 1kW
6 100kW
7 680W
4 47kW
1 470W
2 22kW
1 100W
4 10kW
2 47W
1 6.8kW
1 2kW horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Where To Buy A Kit
This project was sponsored by
Jaycar Electronics and they own
the design copyright. Kits will be
available from Jaycar stores and
dealers.
Features & Specifications
•
A compact handheld Doppler speed radar system operating on a frequency
close to 2.45GHz. Range is 200+ metres for a family sedan.
•
Can be set to read directly in kilometres/hour (km/h) or miles/hour (mph),
to over 250km/h.
•
•
•
•
•
Resolution is 1km/h or 1mph with an accuracy of around 1%.
2.2 measurements/sec for km/h, or 3.6 measurements/sec for mph.
Measured speed is displayed on a 3-digit LED display.
Hold switch lets you freeze the reading.
Operates from 12V DC, current drain around 130mA.
November 2006 29
circuit diagrams to give you a more
detailed insight. First, we’ll look at the
circuit of the microwave head section
– see Fig.3.
The 2.45GHz oscillator is formed by
the circuitry around Q1, a BFP182T
NPN planar UHF transistor. This
comes in a very small SOT-143 surfacemount package and has a transition
frequency (ft) of over 5GHz, making
it suitable for an oscillator operating
at 2.45GHz. Here we use it in what is
30 Silicon Chip
essentially a Colpitts circuit, with the
oscillation frequency determined by
the microstrip line connected to the
collector.
A small amount of 2.45GHz energy
from the oscillator is coupled into a
second microstrip line running close
by and parallel to the collector line.
This coupled energy is then fed to the
input of IC1, which is a Mini Circuits
ERA-2SM wideband UHF amplifier
in a very small “pill” SMD package
with four leads (two of which are
grounded).
Boosting the signal
IC1 provides a gain of about 12dB,
boosting the 2.45GHz signal to the
right level for feeding to the antenna.
Pin 3 of IC1 is both its output pin and
its power supply pin. DC power is fed
to it via a 100W bias resistor and RFC1,
a special UHF choke. The amplified
RF energy is coupled out via a 10nF
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the counter and display circuit. The incoming signal from the head unit is amplified and filtered using op amps
IC1a-IC1d and the resulting signal then used to drive the frequency counter section (IC4, IC5 & the three 7-segment
displays). IC6b, crystal X1, IC7, IC8 & IC3 form the 38kHz oscillator and timebase divider circuit for the counter.
capacitor, to a third and quite short
microstrip line, which takes it to the
antenna.
The antenna is a 30mm length of
1.3mm copper wire attached to the end
of this third microstrip line, positioned
at the correct point inside the Radar
Gun’s coffee-can barrel to ensure that
the 2.45GHz energy is radiated away
in a reasonably narrow beam.
The microwave energy reflected
from the moving vehicle re-enters the
siliconchip.com.au
barrel and reaches the antenna, which
now acts as a receiving antenna. So a
small amount of this reflected energy
passes back down the antenna feed
microstrip line, where it enters mixer
diode D1, together with some of the
original 2.45GHz energy from IC1.
D1 is a 1PS70SB82 Schottky diode
in a very small SOT-323 SMD package and with very low capacitance,
making it suitable for use in UHF
mixers. Here its mixing action results
in the Doppler difference frequency
appearing across its 1kW load resistor, with all of the UHF signals and
mixing products conducted to earth
via a 1nF bypass capacitor. The Doppler audio signal from the mixer is
then coupled via a 1mF capacitor to
the base of transistor Q2, a common
emitter amplifier stage.
The amplified Doppler signal appears at the collector of Q2 and is
coupled via a second 1mF capacitor to
November 2006 31
The microwave head section is built onto a small
double-sided PC board. This mounts vertically under
the barrel assembly with its antenna protruding into
the cavity.
This is the prototype counter & display board. The full construction details
are in Pt.2.
pin 3 of CON1, a USB Type A connector used to mate with the cable linking
the microwave head with the counter/
display section. The same cable is used
to provide the microwave head with
+7.5V DC from pin 2 of CON1.
Counter/display circuit
Fig.4 shows the counter/display
circuit. As shown, the Doppler signal
from pin 3 of CON1 is first fed to a lowpass filter stage based on op amp IC1a.
32 Silicon Chip
It then passes to IC1b, which is a noninverting amplifier stage with a fixed
gain of 101 times, as set by the 1MW
and 10kW feedback divider resistors.
The amplified Doppler signal from
IC1b then passes through a high-pass
filter stage based on IC1c, to filter out
any low-frequency noise which may
still be present.
The output of IC1c is basically an
amplified and cleaned-up version of
the Doppler signal, which is now sent
in two directions. One is via the 6.8kW
resistor to a headphone driver stage
using transistor Q4, which allows you
to monitor the Doppler signals with a
pair of headphones if you wish. This
can help in aiming the radar gun at
the particular vehicle or object whose
speed you want to measure.
The second and main path of the
Doppler signal from IC1c is to the input
of IC1d, which provides further gain.
IC1d’s gain can be adjusted from about
20-220 times using trimpot VR1. This
allows you to adjust the sensitivity of
the Radar Speed Gun, depending on
whether the object being measured is
close or further away.
From IC1d, the boosted Doppler
signal is passed through a passive lowpass filter formed by a 10kW resistor
and 10nF capacitor, and is then fed
into a pulse-forming circuit based on
Schmitt NAND gates IC2a and IC2b.
The signal emerges from pin 4 of IC2b
as a train of narrow (300ms) negativegoing pulses of the same frequency
but with an amplitude of about 11.4V
peak-to-peak.
This “digital” version of the Doppler signal becomes the input for the
frequency counter section and can also
be monitored using an oscilloscope at
test point TP3.
The frequency counter is based on
IC4, a 4553B 3-decade BCD counter
with built-in output latches and display multiplexing. It is coupled to
three 7-segment LED displays via IC5,
a 4511B BCD-to-7-segment decoder
which drives the displays.
siliconchip.com.au
The digit select outputs from IC4
(pins 2, 1 & 15) are used to turn on
each display digit at the correct time
via driver transistors Q1, Q2 & Q3.
As noted earlier, the counter’s timebase signals are derived from a 38kHz
crystal oscillator. The oscillator uses
IC6b, part of a 4069 unbuffered hex
inverter. Two sections of the same IC
(IC6d and IC6c) are used as buffers for
the 38kHz clock signal, one to drive the
programmable timebase divider and the
other to drive test point TP1.
The timebase divider is IC7, a 4020B
14-stage binary counter, together with
triple AND gate IC8 (a 4073B), used
for reset gating to achieve the desired
division ratios. Links LK1-LK3 can
be used to change the division ratio
between 4185:1 (for readings in km/h)
and 2601:1 (for mph). The three links
are short tracks on the PC board for
default readings in km/h, relevant to
users in Australia and New Zealand.
To change the divisor settings over for
readings in mph, simply cut the tracks
under the PC board and fit jumper
shunts or wire links in the three “mph”
link positions instead.
Whichever setting has been select
ed, the timebase pulses from the divider can be monitored at test point
TP2. For the default km/h setting, the
pulses at TP2 will have a frequency of
9.0778Hz, while for the mph setting,
they’ll be at 14.6103Hz.
The timebase pulses are used to toggle the two flipflops in IC3, a 4027B
dual JK flipflop. The two flipflops are
cascaded and, along with gates IC2c
and IC2d, run as a simple sequencer
for controlling the counter.
The output of IC3a is used directly
to control the clock input of IC4 (pin
11) and also to gate the Q-bar output
of IC3b via IC2d to produce the latch
enable signal for IC4 (pin 10). The LE
A plastic dust cap fits
over the end of the
barrel assembly to keep
out debris and protect
the microwave “whip”
antenna.
signal transfers each count into IC4’s
output latches at the end of each gating
period. The output of IC3a is also used
to gate the Q output of IC3b via IC2c, to
produce (after differentiation) a reset
pulse for IC4’s counters (pin 13).
The frequency counter therefore
runs continuously in a count/latch
enable/reset cycle at a rate of 2.2 measurements per second for km/h readings
or 3.6 measurements per second for
mph readings.
The Hold switch to freeze the reading grounds the “K” input (pin 11) of
IC3b to disable the flipflop and hold
the present reading in the counter.
The complete circuit operates from
12V DC and this is applied to the
counter/display unit via connector
CON3. The total current drain is about
130mA. You can use a pack of eight
series-connected C-size alkaline cells
or a small 12V sealed lead-acid (SLA)
battery like the compact 1.3Ah unit
sold by Jaycar as SB-2480. The latter
will run the Radar Speed Gun for about
10 hours on a single charge.
Construction
The construction details are all in
Pt.2. Note, however, that the Jaycar
kit will not include the two coffee
cans that are used to make the Radar’s
antenna barrel. So you might want to
visit your local supermarket to buy a
couple of cans of el-cheapo instant
coffee. If possible, get one can with
a push-on plastic cap, because this
comes in handy as a dust cap for the
open front end of the antenna barrel.
Alternatively, the plastic top of a
bulk CD container can be used as a dust
cap, although it won’t be as tight a fit
SC
as a cap supplied with a can.
WIN ME!
Commence a new subscription (or renew an existing
one) between now and Christmas and you’ll go in the
draw to win a pair of these superb M6 bass-reflex kit
speakers, valued at $599 – as featured in this issue –
courtesy of theloudspeakerkit.com
See page 61 for full details
siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 33
Ready-to-assemble, compact, high quality speakers
– you decide the finish!
M6 KIT
LoudspeakerS
Would you like
to build some high
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mind doing some enclosure
assembly finishing?
These M6 compact bass
reflex systems from
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could be just what you are
looking for. Use them on
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Design by
Aaron Waplington*
34 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
T
he speakers are based on a
6-inch woofer from Peerless
Acoustic Engineering, teamed
with a silk dome tweeter from Vifa
in Denmark. Each kit has a pair of
woofers and tweeters, with assembled
2-way crossover networks, plastic
tuned ports, bonded acetate fibre (BAF)
wadding and precision cut and routed
panels of MDF (Medium density fibreboard) to make two enclosures.
The two drivers are high quality
units which are well matched in sensitivity and overall balance and will
make a very good pair of speakers in
an average-sized listening room, either
as stereo pair or as the front speakers
in a home theatre system.
They can be used as bookshelf speakers or be mounted on stands which,
like the kits themselves, are available
from theloudspeakerkit.com
In more detail, the woofer is a
165mm (6.5-inch) unit with low-loss
synthetic rubber roll and a double
magnet system to provide magnetic
shielding. The tweeter is the Vifa
D27TG4506, a 27mm silk dome unit
with a ferrofluid-damped voice coil.
It is not magnetically shielded. This
means that you will not be able to use
the finished speakers in close proximity to CRT video monitors.
+
2.7Ω
8.2 µF
–
FROM
AMPLIFIER
L1
560 µH
D27TG4506
TWEETER
18Ω
+
–
–
Fig.1: the crossover
network has impedance
equalisation for the woofer
(22W + 6.8mF). Note the
tweeter polarity: it is
reversed, as shown in this
diagram.
22Ω
–
10 µF
+
L2 560 µH
The 2-way crossover network
provides attenuation slopes of 12db/
octave for both the woofer and tweeter.
Crossover frequency is 2.5kHz. Both
the inductors are air-cored, meaning
that distortion due to any core saturation will not occur. The 8.2mF tweeter
coupling capacitor is a polypropylene type while the woofer crossover
capacitors are bipolar electrolytics.
The circuit of the crossover is shown
in Fig.1.
As noted above, the finished
cabinets are quite compact, measuring 440mm high, 200mm wide and
295mm deep.
Rated frequency response is from
SG-18
WOOFER
6.8 µF
40Hz to 20kHz at the –3dB points,
as depicted in the graph of Fig.2. Efficiency is 88dB/1W<at>1m, while the
recommended amplifier should be in
the range from 20 to 100W per channel. Nominal power handling is stated
as 90W, for music signals.
The nominal system impedance
is 8W and the impedance curve, as
shown in Fig.3, is typical of a bass
reflex system with the double hump
at low frequencies.
How do they perform?
If you are used to listening to large
tower speakers it will be quite a surprise to hear how much sound these
The kits are supplied complete – enclosure panels,
drivers, crossovers, ports, wadding . . . even screws.
You need to supply some PVA glue and a Phillips-head
screwdriver.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 35
The speaker enclosures (and crossovers) are designed around these specific
speaker drivers – Vifa “silk dome” D27TG4506 tweeters and Peerless SG-18
woofers (one of each per enclosure). They are a good match for each other.
M6 loudspeakers can deliver. They
have an extended bass down to around
50Hz and midrange is quite smooth. At
the high frequency end, the silk dome
tweeter is very sweet and particularly
good on strings.
One point which should be mentioned about these kits is apparent in
the photographs – they are not supplied with grille cloth frames. This
may not be a problem in most households but if you have young children
you will want to make sure they are
well out of reach of little probing fingers or other implements!
Apart from the kits are complete,
right down the screws, gold-plated
terminals and plastic tuning ports.
You won’t need your soldering iron
either, because all connections are
push-on terminals.
Oh, you will need some PVA glue
and a screwdriver.
The speaker kits are covered by a
7-year warranty and a 14-day money
back guarantee. So a client can purchase a kit and then has 14 days to
build the kit and listen to them. If they
are not satisfied with their purchase
then they will get a refund of their
money.
Assembly
It is up to you to assemble and glue
the panels together to make the boxes
and then finish them in timber veneer,
paint or whatever. We chose to glue all
the panels together in one fell swoop.
It is easier to do, provided you have
sufficient clamps to do the job.
The alternative, gluing panels together in sequence, means that you
have top be absolutely sure that each
36 Silicon Chip
panel is exactly at right angles to its
neighbour; otherwise the panels will
not fit.
Once you have all panels clamped,
wipe off any excess PVA glue while
it is still wet. Once dry, it is virtually
impossible to remove and you will
have to sand any excess flat – which
spoils the very smooth finish of the
panels.
We left the boxes to dry overnight.
Then we used a special router bit
to machine a 5mm radius on all the
corners. This removes the very sharp
edges on the panels and the end
result looks better. This is of course
optional.
Finishing the enclosure.
As noted on the LSK website, there
are a number of different options for
finishing your enclosures and this
must be done before the drivers and
crossovers are assembled into the
boxes.
We elected to paint our prototypes,
using a high gloss, oil-based enamel.
We started by using an all-purpose
acrylic primer after having thoroughly
sanded off all the rough edges. We also
used an acrylic filler to fill the inevitable fine gaps in the joins between
the panels.
We used a 50mm brush to apply
the primer and the finish coat. Big
mistake. It is impossible to get rid of
the entire brush stroke. We learnt by
doing! After thoroughly sanding it
all back, we then used a 50mm foam
roller to apply the finish coat. This
gives much better results and while
you won’t get the glass-smooth finish
that is attainable with a spray gun, it is
much quicker and easier. The slightly
dimpled finish from the foam roller
is also better at hiding any surface
blemishes.
Make sure you do not get a paint
build-up in the rebated holes for the
tweeters otherwise they will not fit
properly.
Final assembly
When your boxes have been painted, veneered or whatever, the end of
the process involves assembling the
crossover network and drivers into
the box.
First step – insert the plastic tuning
vent into its hole in the baffle. Push it
down hard to make sure it is flush with
the baffle. ‑Next, mount the crossover
network inside the panel, adjacent to
the hole for the speaker terminals.
You will need to drill a hole for a selftapping screw, to secure it through one
Here’s one of the
two crossovers. It
is supplied as you
see it here – fully
assembled. All you
need do is connect
the three sets of
flying leads to the
input terminals,
woofer and tweeter
(watch the switch
of polarity on the
tweeters!) and
mount the board to
the inside back of
the enclosure.
siliconchip.com.au
WHERE
can you buy
SILICON
CHIP
Fig.2: the speakers have a very smooth frequency response (from 50Hz to
20kHz,) as shown in this graph.
You can get your copy of SILICON CHIP
every month from your newsagent: in
most it’s on sale on the last Wednesday of
the month prior to cover date. You can ask
your newsagent to reserve your copy for
you. If they do not have SILICON CHIP or it
has run out, ask them to contact Network
Distribution Company in your state.
SILICON CHIP is also on sale in all
of the holes in the crossover PC board.
(With 20/20 hindsight, we would have
drilled these holes before assembling
the boxes!).
Next, pass the input wires through
the back panel hole and push the connectors onto the spade lugs of the terminal panel. Note that they polarised
– push the red connector on to the lug
for the red (positive) screw terminal
and the blue connector to the black
(negative) screw terminal.
Then pass the tweeter wires through
the tweeter hole in the baffle and attach them to the tweeter terminals.
Note that this time the connectors
are not coloured but the wire with
the black strip must go the tweeter’s
negative spade lug.
Once the wires are on, carefully
place the tweeter into its hole and
make sure it sits flush with the front
surface of the baffle. Carefully secure
it in place with five screws – do not
over-tighten.
Then place the piece of BAF (bond-
ed acetate fibre) wadding into the enclosure via the woofer mounting hole.
Then connect the remaining crossover
wires to the woofer. The connectors
for these are different sizes to match
the spade lugs on the woofer, so you
cannot make a mistake.
Finally, secure the woofer with
six self-tapping screws. Do not overtighten.
Connect to your amplifier, select an
input source, sit back . . . and relax!
stores . . . again, you can ask the store
manager to reserve a copy for you.
Or, to be sure that you never miss an issue
and save money into the bargain, why not
take out a subscription?
The annual cost is just $89.50 within
Australia or $96 (by airmail) to
New Zealand.
Subscribers also get further discounts on
books, and other products we sell.
* Designer, Theloudspeakerkit
Availability
The kit of two M6 speakers, as
described in this article, is available for
$599.00 plus shipping.
For further information, contact:
The Loud Speaker Kit
21 Harrogate St, Leederville WA 6007
Tel: (08) 9382 8588 Fax: (08) 9382 8087
Website: www.theloudspeakerkit.com
Fig.3: the impedance is a nominal 8W. Note the double hump below 100Hz
which is typical of bass reflex systems.
OVERLEAF: Putting the speakers together, step-by-step
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 37
Putting them together . . . step-by-step
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
1
2
Before you start (especially on
carpet!) , lay out a sheet of plastic . . .
7
Now it’s time to run a bead of glue
around the front panel rebate . . .
13
Clamp the box up firmly and allow it
to dry. If you have glue runs,
19
You may need to squeeze them on
with pliers. Note the polarity!
38 Silicon Chip
3
. . . and do a “dry run” so you can
work out how the pieces fit together.
8
It saves any mistakes later on! If
you’re satisfied, pull it all apart . . .
9
. . . and the back panel. Once again,
too much glue is better than too little.
14
Push the front panel into position on
the box,
15
simply wipe them off with a just-damp
cloth. Leave until the glue dries.
20
Screw the input terminals to the back
of the case with the screws provided.
(Optional): we rounded the box edges
with a router make it less “boxy”,
21
Then turn the box over and push-fit
the port into its hole.
siliconchip.com.au
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
4
. . . and start running glue along the
bottom rebates. Don’t be measly!
10
5
Push both side panels into the bottom
rebates. They should be a snug fit.
11
followed by the rear panel. Make sure
the edges are all flush.
16
22
Pull the “tweeter” wires through and
connect them in the right polarity.
Last of all is the top panel. Run the
glue in the rebates . . .
17
then sanded and painted the boxes an
off-white colour to match our decor.
siliconchip.com.au
6
The crossover has to be screwed to
the inside of the back panel.
23
7
If necessary, give them a push down
or even a gentle tap with a mallet.
12
13
. . . an place the top in position. Push
it down (or tap it down) into place.
18
19
Poke the input wires through the hole
and attach them to the terminals.
Place the tweeter in its hole and align
its holes with those in the box.
24
25
Fasten the tweeter to the front panel
with the screws provided. Don’t slip!
November 2006 39
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
STOP
25
The acoustic wadding is placed inside
the box through the woofer hole.
28
Drop the woofer back into its hole
and align its screw holes.
28
27
26
As you did for the tweeter, pull the
woofer wires through the hole . . .
29
. . . and connect them to the woofer,
again taking note of polarity.
30
Screw the woofer into place with the
screws provided.
Repeat for the other box, connect
them to your amplifier . . . and enjoy!
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
YES!
NA
MORE THA URY
T
N
E
C
QUARTER
ICS
N
O
R
T
OF ELEC
HISTORY!
This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from
the beginning (April 1939 – price sixpence!) right through to the final edition of R, TV & H
in March 1965, before it disappeared forever with the change of name to EA.
For the first time ever, complete and in one handy DVD, every article and every issue
is covered.
If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more
vintage than this. If you’re a student of history, this archive gives an extraordinary insight
into the amazing breakthroughs made in radio and electronics technology following the
war years.
And speaking of the war years, R & H had some of the best propaganda imaginable!
Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you.
• Every issue individually archived, by month and year
• Complete with index for each year
• A must-have for everyone interested in electronics
Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC.
Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!),
Windows 98 or higher and Acrobat Reader V6 or later (free download)
to enable you to view this archive.
This DVD is NOT playable through a standard A/V-type DVD player.
Exclusive to
SILICON CHIP
ONLY
62
$
+
$
00
7 P&P
HERE’S HOW TO ORDER YOUR COPY:
BY PHONE:*
(02) 9939 3295
9-4 Mon-Fri
* Please have your credit card handy!
40 Silicon Chip
BY FAX:#
(02) 9939 2648
24 Hours 7 Days
<at>
BY EMAIL:#
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
24 Hours 7 Days
BY MAIL:#
PO Box 139,
Collaroy NSW 2097
# Don’t forget to include your name, address, phone no and credit card details.
BY INTERNET:^
siliconchip.com.au
24 Hours 7 Days
^ You will be prompted for required information
siliconchip.com.au
Star of wonder, star of night!
Star of royal beauty bright;
westward leading, still proceeding, guide us to
thy Perfect Light.
Programmable
Christmas Star
Features H Light enough to hang on the Christmas tree or in a window
H Cycles through hundreds of pre-programmed patterns
H User programmable (with optional PIC programmer)
H Programmable display rate
H Patterns can be looped
H Twinkle effects
H Battery powered
H Turns itself off after 3 hours
by David
H Low component count
siliconchip.com.au
Meiklejohn
November 2006 41
I
n November 1998, SILICON CHIP
published a very popular Christmas Star project, based on an
Atmel microcontroller.
Recent advances in microcontroller
technology mean that this new design,
based on a single 8-pin PIC micro, has
considerably fewer components and
can run from a pair of 1.5V batteries.
As it is also easier to build and you
can re-program it if you want different
patterns, we believe this new Christmas Star will be even more popular
than the original!
It runs through a programmed pattern sequence, held in EEPROM on the
PIC. With a suitable PIC programmer,
such as Microchip’s low-cost PICkit 2,
it is possible to load a new sequence
into the EEPROM without affecting the
underlying code. There’s no need to
understand PIC programming to create
your own display sequence!
How it works
Fig. 1 shows the complete circuit,
such as it is! It consists of little more
than the pre-programmed PIC12F683I/P microcontroller, 20 LEDs and a
few resistors.
Typically, to control a large number of LEDs using a small number of
output lines, the LEDs are arranged
in a matrix, say 5x4 for 20 LEDs, with
transistors driving each row and/or
column.
That was the approach taken for
the previous Christmas Star project,
but not this time! So how do we drive
20 LEDs with an 8-pin PIC and five
resistors?
Here’s the Christmas Star, actual size, from the front. Each “arm” has the
same colour run of LEDs – blue, green, yellow and red, with single white
LEDs between.This shot was taken with the LEDs flashing, hence some colour
shown. It’s not quite as dramatic as the photo earlier, taken in near darkness!
It’s made possible through a technique known as “Complementary LED
Drive”. It relies on two factors:
1: LEDs will only conduct (and therefore produce light) when a highenough forward voltage is applied.
If the voltage is too low, or reversed,
they simply won’t light up.
2: The PIC12F683 has Tri-state outputs. That is, they can be set high
(nearly 3V in this circuit), low
(close to 0V), or placed into a highimpedance input state, effectively
disconnecting them from the circuit
(“off”). Further, the outputs can
either source or sink current, up
to 25mA.
As an example, consider what happens when the PIC is configured with
pin GP5 high, pin GP0 low, and pins
GP1, GP2 and GP4 Tri-stated (disconnected). Current will flow from GP5
47Ω
K LED5
A
1
Vdd
10k
3V
BATTERY
100nF
LED1
GP5
4
IC1 GP4
PIC12F683
MC
GP2
GP1
S1
GP0
Vss
8
SC
2006
2
3
5
6
7
47Ω
A
A
K LED6 A LED9 K LED11
K
A
K LED7 A LED10 K LED12
λ
K
A
A
K LED8
LED4
47Ω
K
λ
A
λ
A
K
λ
LED15 A
λ
λ
LED16 K
K
LED18 K
A
λ
A
LED17 A
LED20 K
λ
λ
K
λ
λ
K
A
λ
K
K LED14
λ
λ
A
λ
LED19 A
K
λ
λ
LED3
47Ω
λ
K
LED2
47Ω
LED13 A
λ
λ
A
A
PROGRAMMABLE CHRISTMAS STAR
K
ALL LEDS
A
Because the PIC chip takes care of timing, sequencing and lighting the LEDs, the circuit is extremely simple. You
don’t have to follow the LED colours used in the prototype but the patterns will obviously be different.
42 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
LED18
LED20
LED1
LED5
LED19
LED14
+
BATTERY
–
100nF
LED17
47Ω
47Ω
10k
IC1
PIC12
F683
S1
LED11
LED4
47Ω
47Ω
47Ω
LED2
LED6
sa
3. mts
1 ir
V h
LED15
C
LED13
ra
tS
LED16
LED3
LED7
LED12
LED9
LED10
LED8
About the only thing that you can do wrong when assembling the Christmas
Star is to put a LED (or the PIC chip) in the wrong way, or to have a bad solder
joint underneath. Otherwise it should be pretty much plain sailing, even for a
complete novice!
GP3 high until S1 is pressed, pulling
the input low. The software polls for
this at the end of each display cycle
and if S1 is pressed, it puts the PIC
into a low-power sleep mode. The PIC
is then set to automatically wake up if
the switch is pressed again.
Debouncing is done in software, so
there is no need for external debounce
circuitry.
Power is supplied direct from two
1.5V batteries. N cells were chosen
because their size makes them easy
to mount unobtrusively on the back
of the board. But cheaper AAA cells
will also fit, albeit a little less neatly.
They’ll also last longer.
Alkaline batteries will provide more
than 50 hours continuous operation,
and should last up to two years with
the circuit in sleep mode (“off”).
Finally, a 100nF bypass capacitor is
used to smooth the power supply to
the microcontroller. It helps to keep
the PIC stable, particularly as the
batteries discharge toward the PIC’s
minimum operating supply voltage
of around 2V.
Construction
through resistor R1, then LED19, returning through R5 to GP0. So LED19
will light up. Since LEDs are one-way
devices, current can’t flow through
LED20, so it stays off.
But there are other paths for current
to flow from GP5 to GP0. For example,
via LEDs 9 and 10 in series. But these
two LEDs in series are in parallel with
LED19, which is conducting.
Here’s where factor 1 (which we
mentioned earlier) comes into play.
The forward voltage across a conducting LED is roughly constant; for a red
LED it is around 2V.
The voltage drop across the series
combination of LED9 and LED10 must
be the same as that across LED19. So
each of LED9 and LED10 will have a
forward voltage of only a half that of
LED19. If LED19 is turned on with a
2V drop, there will be a drop of only
1V across each of L9 and L10 – not
enough to make them conduct. So they
won’t light up.
You’ll find many other possible
paths for forward conduction; a particularly obvious one is the series
combination of LED1, LED2, LED3
and LED4. Similar reasoning shows
that the voltage across each is only
a quarter that across the conducting
LED19; not enough for them to turn
siliconchip.com.au
on. Similarly for other paths, such
as the non-obvious LED13, LED16,
LED17 combination. In fact, with GP5
high, GP0 low, and the other outputs
disconnected, only LED19 will have
enough forward voltage to light up.
Using this technique, it is possible
for five outputs to uniquely address
up to twenty LEDs, with the limitation
that only one can be turned on at once.
To overcome this limitation, the
software uses multiplexing to make it
appear as though more than one LED
is lit at the same time. The software
displays patterns on up to four LEDs
which are turned on in sequence, each
for 200µs, at nearly 1250Hz, creating
the illusion that the four LEDs are on
at once.
The remainder of the circuit is
very straightforward. Resistors R1-R5
limit current to the LEDs. The current
path to a given LED will always flow
through two of these resistors, so the
effective resistance in series with each
LED is 94W.
Assuming a 3V power supply, and
a red LED with a forward voltage drop
of 2V, LED current will be 10mA,
well within the supply capability of
the PIC.
Switch S1 is used as an on/off
switch. Resistor R6 holds the PIC pin
The Christmas Star is built on a
single-sided PC board, cut in the shape
of an eight-pointed star. All components
are mounted on this PC board, so construction is very straightforward.
Firstly, if you’re not building from a
kit, you’ll need to choose your LEDs.
In the prototype, all the LEDs are clear,
high-intensity types.
Five colours were used: red, green,
yellow, blue and white, arranged with
four red LEDs forming an inner ring,
then yellow, green and finally blue at
the outermost of the big points and
white LEDs used on the four small
points.
Of course, you can arrange the colours any way you want; after all, it’s
your star! And the choice of high intensity or diffused types with a wider
viewing angle is entirely up to you.
About now, you may be wondering
how it is possible to use blue, or indeed most high-intensity types, when
they have a forward voltage higher
than the supply voltage of 3V.
In practice, they do run at voltages
down to 2.5V or so; they’re just not
as bright as they would otherwise be.
At low voltages, they’re still about
as bright as a “normal” LED; quite
bright enough to light up nicely at
night time!
November 2006 43
Parts List – Programmable
Christmas Star
1 pre-programmed PIC12F683I/P IC
20 5mm LEDs (see text for
colours and types)
1 100nF monolithic capacitor
1 10kW 1/4W resistor
5 47W 1/4W resistors
1 6mm PCB tactile switch
1 N-cell battery holder with fly
leads (or AAA – see text)
2 N-cell alkaline batteries
(or AAA)
Double-sided foam tape
(to mount battery holder)
These two shots show how the dual “N” cell battery holder fits on the back of
the PC board, secured in place with double-sided foam adhesive tape or pads.
Note that a “AAA” holder will also (just!) fit on the PC board and will give
longer battery life than the “N” cells used in the prototype. Even so, you should
expect about 50 hours of display from the pair of “N” Cells. By the way, don’t
mistake the 1.5V “N” cells for 12V remote control batteries. They are not too
dissimlar in size and 24V would create a whole different (brief!) display . . .
An IC socket for the PIC is strongly
recommended. Besides reducing the
risk of damaging the chip, it means
that later, if you acquire a PIC programmer, you have the possibility of
creating your own display pattern.
Begin by soldering in the resistors,
then use one of the discarded resistor
leads for the single wire link. Next
comes the IC socket, the capacitor, the
pushbutton switch and the LEDs. Take
special care of the correct orientation
of each LED.
If you put any in backwards, the star
will still operate, but the patterns will
be wrong. Orientation is shown on the
PC board silk-screen overlay.
44 Silicon Chip
At this point you can test the circuit,
with the IC socket empty, by putting
the two batteries into the (not yet installed) battery holder, then putting
the battery holder leads (ie 3V) across
various combinations of pins 2, 3, 5,
6 and 7 on the IC socket.
For each different combination, a
single LED, specific to that combination, should light strongly. Note that
it is possible, if you have used a range
of LED colours, that you will see other
LEDs light very dimly in addition to
the single strong light. If so, don’t
worry, you won’t notice that effect
when the display is operating.
If no combinations produce any
light, use a multimeter to check that
you’re getting 3V from the battery
pack. If you see more than one LED
light up strongly at once, you probably have one of them in backwards,
or perhaps a solder bridge on the
board. If one combination doesn’t produce any light, while others do, you
probably have either a dead resistor
or LED, or a soldering problem such
as a dry joint.
If all the LEDs check out OK, remove
the batteries from the battery pack, cut
the leads suitably short (15mm or so),
thread them from the back of the board
to the front through the hole above
C1. Solder the wires back through
the board in the normal way to the
pads marked + and –, being careful
of polarity!
If you now reinsert the batteries,
nothing should light up; if it does,
you have a short somewhere. Next
remove the batteries again and use
double-sided foam tape to stick the
battery holder to the bottom of the
board (see photos at left).
Finally, you’re ready to insert the
microcontroller. Taking antistatic
precautions (touch an earthed case
first!), carefully insert the PIC into
the IC socket, with the notch on the
IC toward the capacitor. Make sure
that none of the PIC leads are bent or
skewed in the process.
Now insert the batteries again and
you’re finished! At this point, the
Capacitor Codes
Value (mF value) IEC EIA
Code Code
100nF
0.1mF
100n
104
siliconchip.com.au
The wires from
the battery
holder come
up through the
board from
underneath,
then solder
back through
the board in the
normal way.
This helps take
the strain off the
cables and pads.
Where from, how much:
Pre-programmed PIC 12F683:......... $12
Pre-programmed PIC + PC board:... $17
Complete kit of parts (including
clear LEDs, excluding batteries):..... $39
All plus $5 post and packaging within
Australia
Contact details for ordering kits are:
Via website: www.gooligum.com.au
Or email:
david<at>gooligum.com.au
display may start by itself but more
normally, the star will do nothing
until you momentarily press the button. The display sequence should
now start.
Operation
Very simple – push the button to
start, and press it again to stop. But
if you forget and leave the display
running, the star will shut itself off
after around 3 hours. If this happens,
just press the button again to restart.
Creating your own patterns
Although the PIC source code
has not been (and will not be)
released by the author, the command codes which define the display patterns are held in unprotected
EEPROM, which you can update,
independently of the protected code
held in flash memory, with a suitable
programmer. You’ll find the information you need to reprogram overleaf.
PIC programmer
An excellent low-cost programmer
is Microchip’s PICkit2, available from
Farnell for around $65, or as part of a
starter kit for $92. It comes with software that allows the PIC’s EEPROM
to be updated without affecting the
program code in flash memory.
The new command codes can
be typed directly into the PICkit2
EEPROM window and loaded to the
microcontroller.
But it’s very important to uncheck
“Program memory”, so that the program code itself is not overwritten.
See the screenshot at right.
If you don’t uncheck this box (ringed in red above) when reprogramming your
Christmas Star, you will overwrite the program itself, rendering the star useless!
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
o 1
o 1
Value
10kW
47W
siliconchip.com.au
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black gold brown
OVERLEAF:
Pattern Sequence Command
Codes and Pattern Definitions
for those who want to
re-program the patterns.
November 2006 45
Pattern sequence command codes
Code
Command
0
Pause
1 - 91
Pattern
Description
All LEDs off.
Use for a short pause between pattern sequences
Display a pre-defined pattern of up to four LEDs which are on “at once”.
For a list of and details of each pattern, refer to the next page.
LEDs are lit, one at a time, in pseudo-random order, in quick succession
to create an overall “twinkling” effect.
92 - 126
Twinkle Twinkle rate = (code-91)ms between changes.
If the code value = 92, a different LED is lit every 1ms – you may think
too fast for the eye to see. But due to imperfections in the “random”
number generation, you’ll still see a shimmer at this maximum twinkle rate.
127
End of sequence
128
End loop
For code = 126, the twinkling is at its slowest, around 29Hz.
Marks the end of the programmed sequence.
Not necessary if your display codes fill the whole EEPROM, as the
interpreter will restart at the beginning if the end of the EEPROM is reached.
Go back to first pattern in current loop – see below.
Use this to create loops, to avoid having to fill the EEPROM with repeated
sequences of codes to create a repeating effect. Instead, place a “start loop”
instruction at the start of the sequence, and an “end loop” (128) instruction
at the end.
129 - 191
Start loop
Repeat count = code-128
EG. to repeat a sequence of patterns four times, you would place a code of
132 (= 128 + 4) before the first pattern code, and a code of 128 after the last.
Note that nested loops are not supported. An “end loop” code will always
return to the most recent “start loop”.
Sets the display rate, i.e. the time spent displaying each pattern before
moving to the next in sequence.
It allows you to vary the speed of the display in different parts of the
presentation.
192 - 255
Set Speed
Freq = 1000000/[8192(256-pattern)] Hz
The default display rate, if you don’t set your own speed, is 6.8Hz
Max. freq. (code = 255) is 122Hz.
Min. freq (code = 192) is 1.9Hz.
As an example of how to put it all together, here’s some code to twinkle at a moderate rate for 10s, then turn
off (pause) for 1s, then repeat:
Code Comment
195 display speed = 2.0Hz
148 repeat following patterns 20 times (128+20=148)
101 twinkle at 101-91=10ms per change (100Hz)
128 end loop
0 pause (all off)
0 pause again – at 2Hz we need 2 pauses to make 1 second
127 end sequence (repeat from beginning)
46 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Christmas Star Pattern Definitions
Code Description
LED 1
LED 2 LED 3
0
All off
LED 4
Individual LEDs
1
1 only
1
2
2 only
2
3
3 only
3
4
4 only
4
5
5 only
5
6
6 only
6
7
7 only
7
8
8 only
8
9
9 only
9
10
10 only
10
11
11 only
11
12
12 only
12
13
13 only
13
14
14 only
14
15
15 only
15
16
16 only
16
17
17 only
17
18
18 only
18
19
19 only
19
20
20 only
20
Alternate LEDS - 4 per diagonal
60
SE 1 3 NW 1 3
3
10
15
5
61
SE 2 4 NW 2 4
7
8
16
18
62
NE 1 3 SW 1 3
14
19
2
11
63
NE 2 4 SW 2 4
13
20
6
9
64
SE 1 3 NW 2 4
3
10
16
18
65
SE 2 4 NW 1 3
7
8
15
5
66
NE 1 3 SW 2 4
14
19
6
9
67
NE 2 4 SW 1 3
13
20
2
11
Inner and outer - 2 per arm
68
SE arm
3
8
69
NE arm
14
20
70
NW arm
15
18
71
SW arm
2
9
Arms
21
SE arm
8
10
22
NE arm
14
13
23
NW arm
15
16
24
SW arm
2
6
7
19
5
11
3
20
18
9
Rings
25
ring 1 - inner
3
14
26
ring 2 - inner mid
7
13
27
ring 3 - outer mid
10
19
28
ring 4 - outer
8
20
29
Small points
12
4
15
16
5
18
1
2
6
11
9
17
Complimentary pairs
30
NS
1
12
31
EW
4
17
32
SE1 NW1
3
15
33
SE2 NW2
7
16
34
SE3 NW3
10
5
35
SE4 NW4
8
18
36
SW1 NE1
2
14
37
SW2 NE2
6
13
38
SW3 NE3
11
19
39
SW4 NE4
9
20
Inner and outer - 4 per diagonal
72
SE NW
3
8
15
18
73
NE SW
14
20
2
9
Middle LEDS - 2 per arm
74
SE arm
7
10
75
NE arm
13
19
76
NW arm
16
5
77
SW arm
6
11
Middle LEDS - 4 per diagonal
78
SE NW
7
10
16
5
79
NE SW
13
19
6
11
Inner and outer half arms - opposites on diagonal
80
SE inner NW outer
3
7
5
81
SE outer NW inner
10
8
15
82
NE inner SW outer
14
13
11
83
NE outer SW inner
19
20
2
18
16
9
6
Inner and outer half arms - perpendicular opposites
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
Half arms
40
SE inner
3
7
41
SE outer
10
8
42
NE inner
14
13
43
NE outer
19
20
44
NW inner
15
16
45
NW outer
5
18
46
SW inner
2
6
47
SW outer
11
9
Complimentary halves
48
SE NW inner
3
7
15
49
SE NW outer
10
8
5
50
SW NE inner
2
6
14
51
SW NE outer
11
9
19
Alternate LEDs - 2 per arm
52
SE 1 3
3
10
53
SE 2 4
7
8
54
NE 1 3
14
19
55
NE 2 4
13
20
56
NW 1 3
15
5
57
NW 2 4
16
18
58
SW 1 3
2
11
59
SW 2 4
6
9
16
18
13
20
SE inner NE outer
SE inner SW outer
NE inner SE outer
NE inner NW outer
NW inner NE outer
NW inner SW outer
SW inner SE outer
SW inner NW outer
3
3
14
14
15
15
2
2
7
7
13
13
16
16
6
6
19
11
10
5
19
11
10
5
20
9
8
18
20
9
8
18
Commands
92-126
Twinkle Rate: (code-91)ms between changes
127
End of sequence
128
End of loop
Go back to first pattern in current loop
129-191 Start loop
Start of loop:
repeat count = code-128 times
192-255 Set Speed
Freq = 1000000/[8192(256-code)] Hz
SC
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 47
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
So hopelessly devoted to you
It’s amazing how some people become
attached to a particular piece of equipment
that they’ve owned for some years. If it
breaks down, then it just has to be fixed but
who am I to complain?
Mr Lengel brought in his 1999 JVC
AV-P29WH (CD chassis), whinging in
his thick East-European accent that
his beloved set had died – and it was
only seven years old! From the way he
carried on, you’d think there had been
a death in the family. You’ve “gotta”
love blokes like this!
Anyway, his set wasn’t completely
dead – it did try to switch on. You
couldn’t hear any sound but there was
a rush of EHT static and the red and
green LEDs were flashing on the front
of the set.
Well, at least the +5V rail was OK.
The service manual states that there
should be 1200V peak-to-peak on
the collector of the horizontal output
transistor (Q522, 2SD2553-LB) but the
oscilloscope showed there was only
800V. What’s more, this transistor was
getting hot and there was a smell of
burning. There was no sign of ringing
on the line pulse and the +15V and
+25V rails were OK. However, the
screen voltage was down from 200V
Items Covered This Month
•
JVC AV-P29WH TV set (CD
chassis)
•
Sharp CX-68K5X TV set
(NFC chassis)
•
Yamaha RX-V750 (A) AV
Receiver
•
•
•
Teac CT-F683 TV set
Teac CT-M342HW TV set
Panasonic PanaSync S110i
(TX-DIF64MA 21HV125)
computer monitor
48 Silicon Chip
to just 80V and I suspected that there
was something wrong with the flyback
transformer.
Unfortunately, I was wrong, as replacing the flyback transformer (a $150
part) made no absolutely difference.
Next, I decided to check the protection circuits and started with Q591,
only to find this was an “optional”
(OPT) transistor on the circuit diagram. Oh, goodie, we were making
progress!
I continued following the x-ray
protection circuit and checked Q571,
Q451, Q452 and Q981 all the way to
pin 18 of microprocessor IC701.
It was then that I struck a clue. A
few voltage checks in this part of the
circuit revealed that the +12V rail was
very low, at about 1.2V. I followed
this back to IC971, a BA12T 12V IC
regulator which was getting very hot.
This device is a low-impedance highcurrent device and so had to be ordered
in specially.
Anyway, much to my relief that
fixed the problem and Mr Lengel had
his beloved set back again (after whinging about the service cost of course)!
Shrinking picture
I was called out to repair a 2000
Sharp CX-68K5X (NFC chassis) which,
according to the client, had a shrinking
picture. When I looked at the picture, it
was dull, dark and was suffering from
horizontal fold over. The line output
transistor (Q1830, 2SD2581) was getting hot as well.
From experience, I suspected the
deflection yoke and so I loosened it
and removed it from the CRT (A68KTB357X034). This clearly showed that the horizontal windings had
been cooked and had melted the lightgrey former.
I went back to the workshop and
made a few phone calls. First, I tried
to find someone who might have
scrapped one of these sets so that I
could buy a secondhand yoke. When
that failed, I inquired about the availability of a new one. Apparently they
are available and after quoting for
the job the client agreed for me to go
ahead.
In due course, the new yoke arrived
but when I unpacked it, I immediately
noticed that it was black in colour
and shaped differently to the original. However, I put that down to an
updated design and went ahead with
the installation.
Unfortunately, the picture was only
slightly better. The horizontal foldover was gone but the lack of width
remained, though the east-west pincushion and trapezoid were OK.
Anyway, I decided to check these
circuits out.
First, I noticed that R1675 6.8W 3W
was getting very hot and had partially
melted the polyester capacitor next
to it (C1670, 4.7mF 100V). I checked
the values of these components but
they were still spot on. I also checked
Q1671 (2SD1830), L1670 (0.36mH)
and diodes D1610, D1632 and D1633
and these were also OK.
Reluctantly, I came to the conclusion that I had been sent the wrong
deflection yoke – particularly as the
new one had additional coils fitted. As
a result, I checked with my supplier
and confirmed that RC1LH1879CEZZ
was the correct part number. I then
left a message outlining the problem
with the Technical Support Officer for
Sharp Corporation and he responded
with a message for me to read Service
Bulletin CTV182.
This bulletin told me that there are
two types of CRT fitted to this set, the
other being the VB68QBC230X3E. The
yoke I had been supplied with was for
this CRT only and, what’s more, the
other one is no longer available.
siliconchip.com.au
And so all my hard work had been
for nothing! The set has now been written off now as a new CRT is currently
over $1100 trade. Fortunately, I did get
a refund on the new deflection yoke.
A dead Yamaha
A dead 2004 Yamaha AV Receiver
and 5 x 100W Surround Amplifier
(RX-V750 [A]) was recently brought
into the workshop. This is a pretty
expensive top-line home-theatre amplifier and uses some up-to-the-minute
technology.
The reason it was dead was because
the relay which switches the AC
line to the main power transformer
wasn’t latching. There was, however,
+12V and + 5V (derived from the subsupply) from IC501 to microprocessor
IC502 (CPU MC30622MHP-161FP) but
no output from pin 69 (PRY) to the
relay (RY401).
I was subsequently advised that
the microprocessor can give trouble
in this unit, which filled me with
dread as it is an expensive 100-pin
surface-mounted chip. However, as
luck would have it, an identical unit
came in with a straightforward fuse
problem. Having a twin meant that I
could swap boards and I was able to replace the FUNCTION (2) board which
carries the microprocessor. This made
no difference, which saved everyone
a small fortune.
I then went on to examine the
RESET line in pin 12. I noticed that
there appeared to be a hum on this
line and it was unstable and down to
2.5V instead of 5V. I followed this line
to the SUB TRANS board and began
noticing quite a lot of inconsistencies between this unit and the good
amplifier, particularly with regard to
irregular waveforms.
The SUB TRANS power board is
relatively small but still has quite a
few components on it. Swapping this
board with the good amplifier quickly
confirmed that it was indeed the cause
of the problem, so I immediately set
about testing and replacing some of
the more critical parts. I got nowhere
until I came to FET Q404 (2SK3850).
Although this measured differently
from its twin, it didn’t actually measure completely faulty. However, after
swapping it, I at last got the amplifier
to power up on its own, so it must
have been crook.
Unfortunately though, that wasn’t
the end of the matter. Much to my
frustration, the amplifier was still
closing down intermittently and the
RESET line and other waveforms were
still incorrect.
I subsequently swapped quite a few
more parts over without result before
turning in desperation to someone
who was an expert on this series of
amplifiers. Apparently this board has
been known to occasionally give strife
and the fault is thought to be caused by
a diode intermittently breaking down.
As the module is only $35 retail, it’s
simply easier (and more cost effective)
Home to over
180,000 products
Where all the leading brands live
GO TO
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www.rsaustralia.com
RS213SC
International
Rectifier
100%C, 50%M.
Panasonic 4col.
Reliable • Simple
November 2006 49
Serviceman’s Log – continued
However, I also replaced C910 & C908
for good measure.
Unfortunately, there’s nothing I can
do for the customer’s wife and dog.
Hospital TVs
to replace it, so that’s what I ended
up doing.
The new module has also apparently
been improved and carries several
minor modifications. Anyway, it did
the trick.
It comes in threes
I was asked to do a service call on
a Teac CT-F683 TV set that was dead.
When I arrived and knocked on the
door, I was greeted by a man with a
very sad expression. And was he having a run of bad luck. “Two weeks ago,
my wife died. Last week, my dog died
and now my <at>#$%& TV is dead”, he
told me. I immediately mouthed off
some suitable platitudes and refrained
from making my standard “bad luck
runs in threes” quip.
This 68cm silver TV looks more
modern than it actually is. In fact, the
circuitry is quite conventional and has
been around for a long time.
Fortunately, the power supply is on
a sub-board at the rear of the set and
Teac in their wisdom have used an
inordinate number of screws to hold
it down. Once you have spent the appropriate time removing these screws,
the access isn’t too bad, as the leads
are quite long. It also helps to remove
the AV panel at the rear.
My initial checks showed that 240V
AC was arriving at the board, which
meant that the switch and fuses were
OK. Other than that, there was no
50 Silicon Chip
activity at all and the relay (RLY902)
wasn’t latching.
There were no dry joints and nothing was burnt out that I could see.
However, having serviced a couple of
these sets before, I went straight for
two resistors – R970 & R971 (15kW
2W) – which are in the lefthand corner
and which looked discoloured. These
supply the voltage directly to the relay
coil. They measured OK but I replaced
them anyway, to ensure long-term
reliability.
The relay circuit is slightly unusual
as it is not there to switch the set on
and off. Instead, it acts as a safety cutout if too much current is drawn by the
low-voltage power supply involving
transformer T970 and diode D976.
This current is monitored by IC970
(TEA1501), which then controls Q971
and Q970.
Earlier Teacs used a very similar
power supply, without this safety circuit and it was very reliable. In fact, it
is ironic that it is the additional safety
circuit that now gives all the trouble.
Resisting the temptation to just disable it, I decided to replace the four
small electrolytics on the board – ie,
C971, C972, C975 & C976. And when
I removed C976 (1mF 250V), it was
obvious that this was the culprit as it
was leaking fluid down one leg. C972
(4.7mF 160V) wasn’t much better.
That was enough to repair this circuit and the set now came on perfectly.
I am occasionally called out to repair
TV sets for a local hospital. These are
modified Teac CT-M342HW sets and
almost all of their problems can be
sheeted back to capacitors C908 (47mF
63V) and C909 (10mF 100V) which are
located next to heatsinks and, as a
result, dry out rapidly with the heat.
This problem, combined with power
surges in the hospital, causes havoc
with the rest of the set.
Fortunately, the faults are on the
whole straightforward and are caused
by excessive voltage being applied to
sensitive circuits. I do have three odd
faults with these sets though. One
is intermittent weird patterning and
streaking of the picture. This is due to
the difficulty of trying to put the back
on and lining up the chassis with the
rails on the back shell of the cabinet.
These rails tend to hit two 0.22mF capacitors (C303 and C304) on the edge
of the board next to the tuner, making
them dry jointed.
These two capacitors are part of the
0-33V tuning voltage circuit for the
tuner. Re-siting and resoldering them
fixes this problem.
The second problem I have had
was switching the set on and off using the microprocessor. The power
standby is controlled from pin 7 and
this signal goes to Q601, Q905, Q906
and, finally, Q907 which switches
the main +110V. During the normal
course of repairs, Q907 (2SC2335) can
go short-circuit and sometimes takes
out Q906 (2SA1013). However, there
is a 100kW resistor (R921) between
Q907’s base and the collector of Q905
and two series reversed diodes (D913
& D914, S5295C) Q907’s emitter to the
base of Q905.
As a result, I have never had Q905
(2SC2230A) actually fail on me. However, I have had many cases where it
refuses to switch on with 0.6V between
its base and emitter. In the end, I found
that the only permanent solution is to
replace it with a 2SC2335.
Lastly, I had one interesting fault
with one set, where the complaint was
lack of height. This problem could be
overcome by going into the service
menu on the RC-747 remote control
(there are two little holes on top of the
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remote to access the menu) and adjusting it (normally, HIT
is set for approximately 14-17).
However, this wasn’t really the correct solution and
after poring over the vertical timebase, checking this and
replacing that, I came to the conclusion that it was due
to the 110V B+ rail being too high (it actually measured
130V). I adjusted VR901 and noticed the B+ rail swing
down from 130V to 90V with only a very small movement
of the wiper.
As there was some of that dreadful “snot” glue on it, I
replaced the pot but it was still far too sensitive – in fact,
it was impossible to set the voltage on exactly +110V. No
matter how hard I tried, it was always too high or too low,
with the picture height varying accordingly.
Well, I must admit that this had me perplexed. I spent
a lot of time checking out the control circuitry, especially the three reference zener diodes. Enlightenment
only came when I measured the B+ to be much higher
and varying on the cathode of diode D911 following the
chopper transformer. The cause was of this was a leaky
100mF 160V electrolytic capacitor (C917) at the junction
of D911’s cathode and Q907’s collector and replacing it
solved all the problems.
Don’t forget the CRT
With people so keen to purchase the new LCD monitors, it’s easy to forget that the old CRT monitor is still an
excellent alternative – the more so because competition
has forced their prices down to unbelievable levels.
I had two beautiful 21-inch 2000 Panasonic PanaSync
S110i computer monitors (TX-DIF64MA 21HV125) come
in which were either intermittently turning off or sometimes failing to start. They had been bought secondhand for
a song (about one tenth of their value) only two years ago
and had performed flawlessly. Now that they were faulty,
and because we were starting from such a low value, the
repair had to be equally cheap or it was computer heaven
for these two.
At switch on, both were trying to come on but were
then closing down due to some sort of protection circuit.
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On one, if I continually switched it off and on, you could
eventually just see a white line across the screen. And
that was the clue I was looking for.
Panasonic, being a premium brand, generally make an
excellent product but even so, if the problem couldn’t be
fixed within an hour, it was going to be curtains. Well, most
of that time was spent removing and replacing the chassis
from its impregnable metal cage. I removed a bucket or
two of screws before the chassis was even half accessible.
And once it was completely out, there was going to be no
way to run these sets, so the fault had to either be visible
or measurable with an ohmmeter.
Fortunately, in both cases, I could see that the vertical
output IC (IC491) had a row of very fine dry joints and
all I had to do was resolder them. A millennium later I
had the sets all back together, ready for the final tests.
Both monitors performed faultlessly – if only they were
all that easy.
Grundig install
Recently, I was asked to do an installation and checkup
on a complete Grundig system comprising a TV set, video,
DVD, and digital set top box (DSTB)
When I arrived, the first thing I noticed was that it had
already been installed by a dealer using phono leads and
SCART adapters and also that the camera/game input at
the front of the TV had been used. However, to get the
most out of SCART systems, you need to use a fully-wired
21-pin lead.
These aren’t easy to get hold of because the catalogs and
November 2006 51
Serviceman’s Log – continued
packages never tell you whether they
are fully wired. The only way you can
tell is to remove the plug covers and
check yourself. If they aren’t, finding
another supplier is another matter
altogether.
The next drama was to find out
which sockets to plug the leads into.
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quote your credit card number.
52 Silicon Chip
Most of my client’s instruction books
were missing and the ones he did have
had very little information. However,
most of the information is actually in
the TV set’s “Easy Dialog” self-help
menu system.
I connected the DVD output lead
into the orange SCART socket (AV2)
and the VCR to the black AV1 socket.
The DSTB went to the blue AV2 socket
(DEC/EXT) on the VCR. All AV connectors were set to RGB.
My client had complained of the
recording quality on his VCR and I
soon discovered this was because he
was recording poor-quality analog
signals and not the standard definition
signals from the DSTB. The reason
for this was quite simple – the latter
was dead so arrangements had to be
made to take it back to the authorised
service centre.
I then decided to check out the DVD
player, using a DVD which I grabbed
from a pile next to the TV. This didn’t
go smoothly either because, every few
seconds, the picture rolled and the colour dropped out. This also happened
with the drop-down menus and the
DVD screen saver.
I eventually discovered that by
swapping the VCR and DVD leads at
the back of the TV, I could get good
pictures on both inputs. This surprised
me but apart from the TV OSD menu
saying it was on VCR instead of DVD
and vice versa, everything else was
working properly.
I left the client to organise the repair
of the DSTB and made arrangements
to return when it was done. In the
meantime, I contacted several people
in the Grundig support system and I
also trawled the web to try get to the
bottom of this odd rolling on DVD. Noone within the company knew what
was causing the problem off-hand but
they said they would try to track it
down and get back to me.
When the DSTB arrived back with a
software upgrade, I reconnected it and
left, telling the customer that I was still
chasing the information on the other
problem. However, days turned into
weeks and to make matters worse, the
VCR was “playing up” again.
I called back once more and found
that the DSTB had failed again.
This time, I suggested that when he
took it back, he should also take the
DVD player and VCR and have them
checked.
The service centre repaired the
DSTB again but no faults were found
with anything else. Eventually Steve
from “Electronics Today” came out
and solved the problem.
There was in fact nothing really
wrong – except me. Everything was
plugged in correctly but when I had
reached over and picked up the first
DVD from the client’s collection, I had
actually chosen an NTSC 60Hz Region
Zone 1 disc! And the reason it played
back on the AV1 (VCR) input was
because that input was presumably
configured for AUTO system while
AV2 was configured only for PAL.
All that was required was to play a
PAL 50Hz Region Zone 4 disc in the
DVD player and it would have worked.
I haven’t been back since, so I don’t
know whether or not Steve reconfigured AV2 for AUTO (assuming it can
be reconfigured).
So how did Steve know what the
problem was? Well, he has been working on Grundigs for a long time and
there’s no substitute for experience.
Still, I should have twigged – it’s amazing what you overlook sometimes.
Finally, there is an extra button on
the TV remote Telepilot 110C called the
MODE function and we couldn’t work
out how this let this remote control
work the VCR or the DVD player as
well. Steve let us in on the secret. This
function only activates the buttons for
the other equipment while the LED is
on, which is for about 10 seconds.
Devilish cunning, those Germans
– it makes you wonder how they lost
the war!
SC
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Wiegand
decoder
Many security access control
systems incorporate a data protocol called Wiegand. Wiegand was
named after its inventor John R.
Wiegand and the term, while defining a particular data format, is
more commonly used to describe
the Wiegand Effect.
The Wiegand Effect is exhibited
when the internal magnetic fields
in specially prepared wires swiftly
reverse polarity when exposed
to external magnetic fields. This
reversing magnetic field can be
captured as a negative-going electrical pulse.
The Wiegand data protocol incorporates two separate logic lines, a
“one” line and a “zero” line. As the
Wiegand effect can only produce
negative-going electrical pulses,
both lines will individually go
low to indicate the presence of a
bit. Wiegand wire (wire specially
developed to exhibit the Wiegand
Effect) is very hard to duplicate.
This is why the technology is heavily used in security access cards and
“pin” cards.
This simple decoder circuit can be
used to convert dual channel, nega-
tive-going electrical pulses from a
Wiegand magnetic reader head to
standard hexadecimal format.
The circuit consists of a 74HC00
quad NAND gate and two cascaded
74LS164 8-bit shift registers. Where
necessary, the number of shift
registers can be increased to suit
the bit depth of the Wiegand data
stream. For example, we used 26-bit
Wiegand for our experiments (two
parity bits + three bytes of data) and
this required four 74HC164s.
The “zero” and “one” lines are
fed into IC1a to generate a clock
signal for the cascaded shift registers. The second NAND gate (IC1b)
is wired as an inverter and drives
the data input (pin 1) of the first
74HC164 (IC2).
A negative-going pulse on the
“one” line will cause a clock pulse
and a logic one will be captured. A
negative-going pulse on the “zero”
line will cause a separate clock pulse
and a logic zero will be captured.
Once all of the bits have been clocked
in, the resultant hex code is available
at the register outputs.
Ben Gillson,
via email. ($40)
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62 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Electronic
combination lock
This simple 7-digit combination
lock can be hard-wired for any combination that you choose. It’s based
on a 4-bit divide-by-8 Johnson counter (IC1), 10 pushbutton switches
and an NPN transistor (Q1).
At power up, the 47mF capacitor
connected to pin 15 of IC1 charges
to a logic high level via an 820kW
resistor, holding the counter in the
reset state. In this condition, output
O0 (pin 2) of the counter is high,
while all other outputs are low.
If switch S2 is now pressed, transistor Q1 conducts, discharging the
47mF capacitor via D1 and the 82W
resistor and releasing the counter’s
reset input. When S2 is released,
Q1 switches off and its collector is
pulled high, generating a rising edge
on the counter’s CP0 (pin 14) input.
A 10mF capacitor and 10kW resistor
in the base circuit of Q1 forms a simple filter to prevent switch contact
bounce from generating multiple
clock pulses on CP0.
The clock pulse advances IC1’s
count by one, so O0 goes low and
O1 goes high. Therefore, switch S7
must be pressed next, as it’s wired
to output O1, and the sequence
repeats. The time required for the
47mF capacitor to charge to a logic
high level is the maximum time
that can lapse between switch
presses – otherwise, the counter
will be reset.
When all switches have been
pressed in the correct sequence
(S2-S7-S3-S4-S5-S2-S2 as shown),
output O7 (pin 10) of the counter
goes high for about three seconds.
This could be used to power a lock
or motor circuit via a relay driver.
Raj. K. Gorkhali,
Kathmandu, Nepal. ($30)
With the components values selected for the low-pass filters, mains
interference is virtually excluded.
VR1 is an offset adjustment and
serves to keep the op amp’s output
normally high or normally low, as
desired. This should be a multi-turn
trimpot for precise adjustment.
To set up the circuit, connect a
12V battery or regulated 12V DC
power supply, then turn VR1 until
LED1 just extinguishes. Finally,
slip the coil under the track, clip
a small neodymium magnet to the
underside of the train and you are
ready to go.
If desired, IC2’s output (pin 6) can
directly drive a power MOSFET or
it can be used to trigger a 555 timer
monostable circuit.
Thomas Scarborough,
South Africa. ($30)
Model train
detector
This circuit can be used to detect
a model train on a track. A flat coil
slipped under the track detects the
field of a small magnet attached to
the underside of the train. With L1
consisting of a minimum of 24 turns
of enamelled copper wire (width
to suit track), the circuit should be
able to detect a neodymium magnet
at several centimetres.
The coil is wired directly across
the inputs of an LM380N audio
amplifier, which greatly amplifies the small signal from the
coil. This is then fed to “tracking” comparator IC2 via two lowpass RC filters, one set to about
15Hz and the other to 3Hz. As
a magnet passes over the coil, a
potential difference is created at
IC2’s inputs, causing the output
to swing towards the positive rail.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 63
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE to
LCD interface
Liquid crystal displays are often a
convenient way of displaying information in PICAXE projects. While
it’s possible to purchase an LCD kit
that interfaces with your PICAXE via
a serial link, it’s sometimes cheaper
and more convenient to incorporate
the display right into your project.
Lets’ see what’s involved.
LCDs come in all sizes and configurations. Of these, the 16-character by
2-line alphanumeric type was chosen
here, as it’s the cheapest and most
readily available.
Most alphanumeric LCDs use a
common interface, as defined many
years ago by Hitachi and used in their
HD44780 LCD controller chip. The
hardware interface is composed of
three control lines (R/W, RS and E)
and eight data lines (DB0-DB7).
Two more lines provide power
(VDD) and ground (VSS) to the logic
section, while a third (VO) supplies
the bias voltage for the display portion. Some displays include LED or
EL (electroluminescent) backlightling, which also requires both power
and ground connections.
64 Silicon Chip
The circuit shows how to connect
an LCD module to the PICAXE-18X.
As you can see, only four of the
eight data lines are connected. This
is made possible by using the LCD’s
4-bit “nibble” mode, when 8-bit data
is transferred in two 4-bit chunks. In
addition, the R/W (Read/Write) line
is tied permanently low, as the vast
majority of applications need only
write to the module.
Note that some versions of the
PICAXE “Electronic Interfacing Circuits” manual shows the module’s
data lines wrongly connected (ie,
reversed). In addition, the unused
data lines (DB0-DB3) are wired directly to ground, which may cause
damage to the module if the R/W
line is accidentally pulled high or
left floating. Instead, the unused
data lines should be connected to
ground via 10kW resistors or simply
left disconnected.
All connections between the
PICAXE and LCD are made via 330W
resistors. These provide a measure
of protection from wiring errors and
high-voltage transients. If the wiring
is relatively short (say, about 100mm
or less) and you’re confident about
the accuracy of your connections,
then they can be safely omitted.
The circuit also includes a simple
3-terminal regulator circuit based
on a 7805, to allow operation from a
9-12V DC plugpack.
Program description
To initialise the LCD controller as
well as to move the character display
position and perform other housekeeping functions, the PICAXE must
write the appropriate commands (instructions) to the LCD. On the other
hand, to send an ASCII character for
display, the PICAXE must write data
to the LCD.
The differentiation between commands and data is made with the RS
line. This line must be driven high
before sending a command and low
before sending data. Once the RS line
has been correctly set and the data
presented on the DB4-DB7 inputs,
the E line is pulsed high to latch the
data into the LCD controller.
This series of tasks can be performed by a few simple subroutines,
all of which are present in Listing
1. This listing also shows how the
routines are used to display a string
(in this case, “HELLO WORLD”) on
the LCD.
You can incorporate these routines
into your projects whenever you
want to use an LCD. However, you
must not use byte variables b12 or
b13 or word variable w7 in any other
siliconchip.com.au
Listing 1
part of your program. The routines
in question are labelled LCD_INIT,
WRCMD and WRCHR. Let’s look at
each of these in a little more detail.
The INIT_LCD routine initialises
the module, setting various parameters such as font size (5x7 pixels),
number of lines (2), interface data
length (4-bit) and so on. An initial
pause of 200ms allows the LCD to
settle after power-up. A series of
commands is then sent in a specific
order, deliberately timed in accordance with the module’s datasheet
specifications. Readers who want to
fully understand the initialisation
procedure will find more information
in their LCD’s datasheets.
The WRCMD routine is not a separate routine per se. Instead, it should
be considered part of WRCHR; it
simply clears the RS bit so that the
byte in LCD_ch will be written to the
LCD’s command (instruction) register. Reproduced from the PICAXE
manual, Table 1 shows a summary
of valid commands that can be sent
to the LCD using WRCMD.
The WRCHR routine writes the
command or data (character) in
the LCD-ch variable to the LCD. As
described earlier, the byte is written
as two 4-bit nibbles. First, the upper
nibble is formatted and presented on
the output port using the pins command. The pulsout command then
strobes the E bit to latch the data into
bits DB4-DB7 of the LCD controller’s
data register.
The lower nibble is then shifted to
the high position by multiplying it by
16 and the same sequence followed
to write it to the LCD. As mentioned,
the RS bit determines a command or
data write, so it must be set correctly
before the pulsout command. This is
achieved in each case by ORing the
RS_bit variable in the pins command
expressions.
Note that you cannot directly
call the WRCHR subroutine with a
numerical value in variable LCD-ch.
Instead, numbers must first be converted to individual ASCII characters. Listing 2 provides an example of
how this can be achieved. Alphabetic
characters do not require manipulation, as they are already stored in
ASCII format.
Peter Burgess,
Lavington, NSW. ($50)
siliconchip.com.au
; LCDDrive.bas
; PICAXE-18X
symbol
symbol
symbol
symbol
symbol
RS = 2
EN = 3
MEM = b11
LCD_ch = b12
RS_bit = b13
;0 = Command 1 = Data
;0 = Idle 1 = Active
;used when reading EEPROM
;byte to be written to LCD
;RS bit
START:
gosub INIT_LCD
;always initialise LCD first!
eeprom 0,(“ Hello World “)
eeprom 16,(“- Test Message -”)
;store text in EEPROM
; Set display position to start of first line
Listing 2
DISPLAY:
LCD_ch = $80
gosub WRCMD
; Convert number in b0 to ASCII and display it
DISPLAY_NUM:
LCD_ch = b0 / 100 + $30
gosub WRCHR
b1 = b0 // 100
LCD_ch = b1 / 10 + $30
gosub WRCHR
LCD_ch = b1 // 10 + $30
gosub WRCHR
return
; Display the first line
for MEM = 0 TO 15
read MEM,LCD_ch
gosub WRCHR
next
pause 500
;get 100’s digit
;write to LCD
;get remainder
;get 10’s digit
;write to LCD
;get remainder (units digit)
;write to LCD
; Set display position to start of second line
LCD_ch = $C0
gosub WRCMD
;second line starts at $40, not $10!
;(see PICAXE manual for details)
; Display the second line
for MEM = 16 TO 32
read MEM,LCD_ch
gosub WRCHR
next
pause 500
goto DISPLAY
; Initialise the LCD module
INIT_LCD:
pause 200
RS_bit = $00
pins = %00110000
pulsout EN,1
pause 10
pulsout EN,1
pause 1
pulsout EN,1
pause 1
pins = %00100000
pulsout EN,1
pause 1
LCD_ch = $28
gosub WRCMD
LCD_ch = $0C
gosub WRCMD
LCD_ch = $06
gosub WRCMD
LCD_ch = $01
gosub WRCMD
return
;200ms power-on delay
;clear RS to send command
;command (sets 8-bit mode initially)
;give a 10us pulse on E
;wait 10ms
;give a 10us pulse on E
;wait 1ms
;give a 10us pulse on E
;wait 1ms
;command (now set 4-bit mode)
;give a 10us pulse on E
;wait 1ms
;command (4-bit, 2 lines, 5x7 mode)
;command (display on, cursor off)
;command (increment, no shift)
;command (clear display)
; Write a command (instruction) to the LCD
WRCMD:
RS_bit = $00
;clear RS to send command
; Write command or data to the LCD
WRCHR:
pins = LCD_ch & %11110000 | RS_bit
pulsout EN,1
pins = LCD_ch * 16 | RS_bit
pulsout EN,1
RS_bit = %00000100
pause 5
return
;put high nibble out first
;give a 10uS pulse on E
;put low nibble out next
;give a 10uS pulse on E
;default (to send data)
;wait 5ms
Table 1 - LCD Module Commands
1 Clear display and move to the start of the
first line
2 Move the cursor and display ‘window’ to the
start of the first line
4 Set ‘right to left printing’ mode
5 Set ‘scroll printing to the left’ mode
6 Set ‘left to right printing’ mode
7 Set ‘scroll printing to the right’ mode
10 Turn visual LCD screen off
12 Hide cursor
13 Make cursor flash
14 Turn visual LCD screen (and cursor) on
16 Move cursor left one position
20 Move cursor right one position
24 Scroll display ‘window’ left one position
28 Scroll display ‘window’ right one position
128 Move cursor to the start of the first line
192 Move cursor to the start of the second line
November 2006 65
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE-controlled
Yoghurt maker
You can make you own yoghurt
with the help of this simple heating
and cooling gadget. It’s based around
a PICAXE microcontroller, two power
relays and a multipurpose heating/
cooling assembly (PELT2) from Oatley
Electronics – www.oatleye.com.
The heating/cooling assembly is
driven by a thermoelectric cooler that
utilises the Peltier effect. These units
were originally intended for water
coolers and are supplied complete
with a 1-litre plastic water reservoir.
First, the top of the reservoir and its
internal baffles must be removed and
the bottom spout cut off and sealed so
that it will stand. A replacement lid
can be fashioned from a Styrofoam
box or similar.
A new baffle cut from a plastic lid
(see accompanying diagram) can then
positioned in front of the Peltier module and wedged in the corners to hold
it in place. The existing thermistor
must also be replaced with a DS18B20
temperature sensor.
For best results, an additional 12V
DC fan can be positioned inside the
reservoir to circulate air over the Peltier module and around the enclosure.
The modified assembly is driven
with the circuit shown here, which in
effect operates like a simple thermostat. A PICAXE-08M microcontroller
(IC1) strives to maintain the internal
temperature at 35-37°C, using relay
RLY1 to control power to the Peltier
module and a DS18B20 temperature
sensor for feedback.
This is the multipurpose heating/
cooling assembly (PELT2) from Oatley
Electronics.
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Listing: Yogurt Maker
Mathew
is this m Tiede
onth’s
winne
Peak At r of a
las
Instrum Test
ent
The airflow
also falls under PICAXE
control, using
transistor Q1 to
switch both the
heatsink-attached
fan and the circulation fan. In addition, a double-pole,
double-throw relay (RLY2) allows the
micro to control the polarity of the
voltage applied to the Peltier, so the
assembly can be commanded to heat
or cool the yoghurt culture.
Power for the micro and associated
components is provided by a 78L05
3-terminal regulator. Diode D1 adds reverse polarity protection to the input.
Together with the 470mF capacitor, it
also acts to isolate the circuit from the
high-current supply to the Peltier unit.
Zener diode ZD1 and its 10W series resistor limit positive transients,
while the 220nF capacitor across the
contacts of RLY1 suppresses highfrequency noise components at their
source.
A 12V DC power supply with good
load regulation and at least a 9A capacity should be used to power the
assembly. Be sure to use only extraheavy duty wire for the Peltier module
and relay wiring, as indicated by the
heavy outlines on the circuit.
Power for the microcontroller circuit must not be picked off at some
point along the Peltier wiring. Instead,
it must be independently wired to the
power supply output terminals (as
shown) to ensure reliable operation.
To make the yoghurt, the author
uses a heaped tablespoon of “Easiyo”
premix in a clean, warmed 375ml glass
jar half-filled with tepid water. Add
four heaped tablespoons of ordinary
dry milk powder and combine until
smooth. Add warm water to the top of
' Yoghurt Maker by M.Tiede 08/06
' PICAXE-08M
symbol TOPTEMP = 37
symbol BOTTEMP = 35
'upper temp
'lower temp
83mm
symbol temp = b10
' pin definitions
125mm
NEW INTERNAL BAFFLE
This diagram shows the details for
the new baffle which is positioned
in front of the Peltier module.
the jar, seal and place in the modified reservoir. The unit is now ready
for operation.
Note that in use, the polarity relay
(RLY2) should not continually cycle
on and off. If it does, this indicates
that the system is continually overshooting the target temperature.
Experiment with the pause time in
the “loop” section of the program,
air circulation in the reservoir and
fan run time to reduce overshoot.
Depending on a number of variables, the yoghurt will set from 3-9
hours, after which is should be
chilled. The new yoghurt can then
be used as a starter for the next
batch; simply remove a teaspoon
full, place it in a clean jar and refrigerate for subsequent making.
Save the remaining open premix in
your freezer.
Once you’ve got the unit set up
correctly and know the typical run
time, it might well be possible to have
symbol FAN = 0
symbol PWR_RLY = 1
symbol POL_RLY = 2
symbol DS18B20 = 4
'circulation/heatsink fans
'power relay (RLY1)
'polarity relay (RLY2)
'temp sensor
main:
low FAN
low PWR_RLY
'fan off
'Peltier off
loop:
pause 5000
'to check temp every 5 secs
readtemp DS18B20,temp
'get current temp
if temp > TOPTEMP then toohot
if temp < BOTTEMP then toocold
goto loop
toohot:
high FAN
high POL_RLY
high PWR_RLY
pause 100
less:
readtemp DS18B20,temp
if temp > TOPTEMP then less
goto main
toocold:
high FAN
low POL_RLY
high PWR_RLY
pause 100
more:
readtemp DS18B20,temp
if temp < BOTTEMP then more
goto main
'turn on the fan
'set correct polarity for cooling
'power up the Peltier
'settling time
'get current temp
'loop until cool enough
'turn on the fan
'set correct polarity for heating
'power up the Peltier
'settling time
'get current temp
'loop until warm enough
the unit chill your yoghurt ready for
breakfast!
Mathew Tiede,
Gympie, Qld.
C h o o s e Yo u r P r i z e
There are now five great reasons to
send in your circuit idea for publication
in SILICON CHIP. We pay for each item
published or better still, the best item in
“Circuit Notebook” each month will entitle
the author to choose one of four prizes:
(1) an LCR40 LCR meter, (2) a DCA55
Semiconductor Component Analyser, (3)
an ESR60 Equivalent Series Resistance
Analyser or (4) an SCR100 Thyristor &
Triac Analyser, with the compliments of
siliconchip.com.au
Peak Electronic Design Ltd. See their
website at www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in. Send it to
SILICON CHIP and you could be a winner.
You can either email your idea to
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it to
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
November 2006 67
By PETER SMITH
Rev ie w :
BitScope BS310
mixed-signal oscilloscope
This versatile data acquisition system packs
a digital oscilloscope, spectrum analyser,
logic analyser, data recorder and waveform
generator into one affordable package – and
it’s Australian-designed and supported!
PC-BASED TEST instruments are
nothing new. By using the processing
power and graphical interfacing capabilities of the PC, manufacturers have
been able to dramatically improve the
price/performance ratio of their test
equipment.
The advantages of combining test
equipment with the power of the PC
are not lost on Australian company
BitScope Design, who manufacture
a small range of mixed-signal oscilloscopes and accessories. BitScope
first appeared in 1998, when Australian design engineer Norman Jackson
described his “Mixed Signal Capture
Engine” in the pages of Circuit Cellar.
He won first prize in a competition for
his efforts.
Subsequently, BitScope went on to
offer several designs as do-it-yourself
68 Silicon Chip
kits. These proved to be very popular
but have been recently discontinued,
as several through-hole components
used in the kits are no longer available.
The current models all use surfacemount technology and are therefore
sold preassembled and tested.
Despite the shift to preassembled
units, the same core principles apply
to all BitScope instruments. Their
“open design” policy means that all
units are supplied with circuit diagrams so that you can see how they
work. In addition, detailed architectural information is provided on the
BitScope website for those that wish
to write their own virtual instrumentation applications.
BS310 captured
We test-drove BitScope’s BS310U
model. It’s housed in a small, extruded
aluminium case and features a dualchannel, 100MHz (40MS/s) analog and
8-channel logic data capture engine.
Analog and logic data are sampled
simultaneously and stored in local
128kS buffers prior to high-speed
transfer to the PC via a USB (BS310U
model) or Ethernet (BS310N model)
connection.
An arbitrary waveform generator
(AWG) adds significant versatility
to the instrument’s capabilities. The
AWG can generate single, pulsed or
continuous waveforms of up to 128kS
at 10MS/s and can operate through
BNC channel B. Importantly, it can
function concurrently with the capture
engine, thus allowing a circuit to be
stimulated and its response observed
in real time.
Processing and display of raw data
from the BS310 is performed by BitScope’s “DSO” software running on
Windows or Linux. This combines a
complete set of virtual instruments
under a common user interface: a
digital storage oscilloscope, spectrum
analyser, logic analyser, data recorder
and waveform generator.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: all virtual instruments run in a common graphical
interface called “DSO”, shown here with the oscilloscope
and spectrum analyser enabled. Both analog channels
are displayed, with channel B sourced from the pod
input. Many parameters are alterable by clicking on left,
right, up or down arrows. Some can also be modified
by right-clicking on the parameter and choosing from a
predefined list that pops up. Others simply allow you to
enter a value directly.
DSO’s virtual instruments enjoy
the benefits of the host’s processing
power and data storage. Additionally,
the software automatically adjusts to
accommodate the large, widescreen
displays now common on many PCs.
Simply put, you get to see a lot more
of the signal at a time than would ever
have been possible with a standalone
instrument!
More on the box
Most of this review focuses on the
software side of the package but before
we get into that, let’s look briefly at the
front panel connectors and switches,
the logic pods and some of the more
notable hardware features not yet
mentioned.
The two front-panel BNC inputs
can be terminated with 1MW or
50W, selectable via miniature toggle
switches. Signal coupling may be
AC or DC and is software selectable.
When needed, input sensitivity can be
increased 10 or 50-fold by enabling an
analog input multiplier, again under
software control.
Also of note is the programmable
triggering logic for both the analog
and digital channels. Moreover, a
cross-triggering function allows the
digital trigger to operate from the
analog (A/D converter) output, making
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: here we’ve running three instruments simultaneously – the waveform generator, oscilloscope and spectrum
analyser. Channel B shows the generator’s output, which
is a 5kHz, 4V square wave. Channel A is measuring an LC
tank circuit stimulated with the square wave. Using the
cursors, we can see that the tank circuit oscillates at about
33.6kHz. Check out the BitScope website for a similar,
more detailed example in the AWG section of the Online
User Guide.
this instrument extremely useful for
mixed-signal work – a normal requirement in today’s electronics.
A 25-pin “D” connector on the front
panel gives access to all eight of the
digital logic inputs and provides two
alternate analog inputs as well. For
low-speed work, this connector can
be wired directly to the logic circuits
under test. However, in most cases,
one of BitScope’s optional logic pods
is required to interface the test signals
to the BS310’s inputs.
The basic pod consists of a small circuit board that carries a HCMOS buffer
chip and a few passive components
and is +5V and +3.3V TTL/CMOS
logic compatible. 26-way header plugs
mount on opposite edges of the board.
One plug connects to the front-panel
“D” connector via a short length of
ribbon cable, while individual “E-Z
hook” style leads are pushed onto the
desired signal input and ground pins
on the other plug for connection to the
circuits under test.
Power supply and serial I/O lines
are provided on the “D” connector
for those wanting to design a custom
“smart” pod for specialised applications. In fact, BitScope offer the
“ProtoBoard” for just such a purpose.
This board plugs directly into the
“D” connector and offers a conveni-
ent, low-cost platform for 18-pin PIC
development.
DSO software
As mentioned, all of the DSO’s
virtual instruments run under one
common user interface. Individual
instruments are enabled via a row of
selection buttons on the right side of
the DSO window.
In some cases, more than one instrument can be active at a time. For
example, either the spectrum analyser
or logic analyser can operate concurrently with the oscilloscope. In these
cases, the waveform display area is
automatically divided in half to accommodate both instruments.
Once the desired settings have been
made, most of the controls can be hidden to maximise the waveform display
area, if desired.
OK, lets’ look briefly at each of the
major components of the software,
starting with the oscilloscope.
Digital storage oscilloscope
The oscilloscope display is laid
out on an 8x10 grid. The horizontal
and vertical scales are not displayed
against the X and Y-axes but instead
are determined from a list of “information variables” that appear immediately below the graticule.
November 2006 69
Fig.3: in mixed signal
mode, one analog
channel and all eight
digital channels
are displayed in a
time-aligned fashion.
With the aid of the
cursors, it’s easy to
relate events between
the domains.
Vertical settings range from 500mV
to 5V in familiar 1-2-5 steps. This is
separate from the analog input range,
which can be set to 513mV, 2.35V,
4.7V or 10.8V with the multiplier off.
With the multiplier set to x50, the
selections shrink to 10.3mV, 47mV,
94.1mV or 216mV.
Naturally, the idea is to set the input
range to maximise resolution, taking
into account the amplitude of the input signal. The latest version of DSO
does this automatically, although the
settings can still be altered independently if desired.
The vertical settings also cater for
probe type (x1, x10, x100 of x1000),
input signal multiplier (OFF, x10 or
x50) and coupling (AC or DC). The
signal can be sourced from the pod
rather than the BNC input by clicking on the “POD” button and can be
inverted by clicking on “INV”.
Dragging a slider or clicking on
BitScope’s basic logic pod consists of
a small circuit board that carries a
HCMOS buffer chip and a few passive
components and is +5V and +3.3V
TTL/CMOS logic compatible.
70 Silicon Chip
“up” and “down” arrows alters trace
position. The BitScope engineers have
obviously put some thought into these
controls, because despite their small
size they’re quite easy to use.
The horizontal timebase is straightforward, with settings ranging from
10ns to 500ms, again in 1-2-5 format.
DSO automatically dials in the appropriate sample rate each time the
timebase is altered.
A “zoom” setting directly above the
main timebase slider allows horizontal
zooming of up to 50 times. Panning
through the display buffer to find the
section of interest can then be achieved
by dragging the waveform offset slider
just below the graticule.
DSO includes a second, delayed (or
“zoom”) timebase that is indispensable when you want to examine a small
section of a repetitive waveform in
detail. A shuttle control eliminates the
need to fiddle with manual parameters
when trying to find the segment of interest, which is highlighted in the main
timebase display by a grey band. Once
the area of interest is identified, a click
on the “ENABLE” button brings the
segment into full view. Slick indeed!
Analog triggering is fully featured
and can be set to rising or falling edge.
It can also be filtered and can have a
hold-off period programmable from
3ms to 150ms. In addition, a pre-trigger
feature allows the position of the trigger in the captured data to be selected
from 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%
of the buffer.
Spectrum analyser
In keeping with the ease-of-use
mantra, DSO features a fully automatic spectrum analyser (FFT). For
the mathematically clued, it utilises a
variable size windowed DFT processing engine suitable for both one-shot
and periodic waveforms and is capable
of displaying spectra from DC to over
100MHz.
The time and frequency displays
share the same data source and therefore the same timebase and trigger.
This means that the spectrum analyser
instrument can operate simultaneously with the oscilloscope, if desired.
Clicking the “BOTH” selection button
splits the display in half, with the top
half showing the spectra and the bottom half the oscilloscope.
Measurements within the time and
frequency domains can be made with
the aid of “X” and “Y” cursor pairs,
which are simply enabled with a mouse
click and then dragged to the desired
points of interest on the waveform.
Values such as period, pulse width,
slew rate, frequency and bandwidth
are all readily determined.
Logic analyser
The logic analyser operates in what is
known as “mixed” mode. The top half
of the waveform display area shows
oscilloscope inputs A or B (only one
analog channel can be used in this
mode) and the bottom half the eight
analyser traces. However, it’s also possible to enable only the logic analyser
(or oscilloscope) portion of the display
for easier interpretation.
This instrument operates synchronously with the oscilloscope and so
shares the same timebase settings.
Triggering can be on any logic state,
with each bit definable as high, low or
“don’t care”. Crucially, the trigger can
also come from one of the analog channels, providing the cross-triggering
function we mentioned earlier.
The BitScope literature makes a big
deal out of the product’s mixed analog
and digital logic display and crosstriggering capabilities – and with good
reason! Just about all electronics these
days incorporates both domains, so the
ability to see them working together is
indispensable.
Waveform generator
This instrument operates much like
a conventional signal generator, supporting sine, step and ramp functions.
Frequency, symmetry, amplitude (up
to 10V) and offset are all fully programmable.
Using a front-panel toggle switch,
siliconchip.com.au
the AWG output can be directed to the
channel B input, so there’s no need to
probe the circuit to see the waveform.
The second analog channel is free to
measure circuit response.
The above holds true when the
AWG is set to produce repeating oneshot waveforms. However, when set
to produce continuous waveforms
like a dedicated AWG, no other virtual instrument can be used at the
same time.
Data recorder
Analog and logic waveforms can be
recorded to disk using the DSO Data
Recorder (DDR) instrument. Data is
saved in “CSV” file format, so is compatible with all popular analysis tools
such as MatLab and Excel.
This handy feature allows records to
be instantly replayed for comparison
with newly captured data. A brand
new function in DSO even allows the
waveform data to be loaded when no
BitScope hardware is connected. So
yes, you can now take your work home
with you!
BitScope BS310 Specifications Summary
Analog Inputs................................................................2 x BNC or 2 x POD
Analog Bandwidth.............. 100MHz (see product specifications for details)
Input Impedance.............................. 1MW||20pF (BNC), 100kW||5pF (POD)
Input Voltage Range..... ±513mV to ±10.8V & ±5.13V to ±108V (x10 probe)
Input Multiplier Gain.......................................x10 and x50 (user selectable)
Analog Sensitivity...............................................................2mV - 40mV (x1)
Maximum Sensitivity......... 300mV (time), 70mV (frequency) & 10mV (mean)
Fast Sample Rates................................ 4, 5, 10, 13.5, 20, 25, 33 & 40MS/s
Slow Sample Rates.......................... 4kHz – 1MHz (slow) and < 1Hz (burst)
Channel Buffer Depth.................................. 128kS (analog) + 128kS (logic)
Glitch Capture....................................................................................... 25ns
BitScope Digital Trigger................ 8-bit combinatorial on logic or A/D output
High Speed Analog Trigger..................................................................... Yes
Waveform Generator.............. 10MS/s (switchable through BNC channel B)
Data upload speed................................................................. 1.2Mb/s (max)
PC Host Interface..................................USB 2.0 (also USB 1.1 compatible)
or 10BaseT Ethernet
Size..............................................................150 x 55 x 100mm (W x H x D)
Look & feel
Virtual instrument designers must
be tempted to pack in every conceivable feature to make their products
more appealing. After all, one of the
big advantages of a software-based interface must be that it doesn’t cost near
as much to add a function as it would
in a hardware-dominated product.
But would such a feature-laden
beast really be usable? Probably not!
And this is what we liked most about
this system. Everything that you want
is right there in front of you – there’s no
need to go fishing through the menus
(or God forbid, the manuals) to get the
job done.
Waveforms can be displayed in
“raw”, “wideband” or “enhanced” formats and can even be given phosphorlike qualities of persistence for viewing
eye patterns, spectral plots and the
like. In fact, DSO’s waveform rendering and signal processing produces
an image on screen that’s not unlike a
conventional analog scope and must
be one of the best we’ve seen.
Check it out
As with any test system of this nature, it’s difficult to get a feel for the
product unless you actually have it
in your hands. BitScope have tried to
make evaluation easier by connecting a
siliconchip.com.au
BitScope to the Internet, where anyone
can get access to it.
To get connected, first download
and install the latest version of DSO
from www.bitscope.com. Next, launch
the software and click on the “SETUP”
button. On the “Setup” tab, select a
connection type of “ETHERNET” and
an IP address of “SYDNEY”.
It’s then just a matter of hitting the
Fig.4: triggering in mixed signal
mode can original from an analog
channel or the logic channels. For
logic triggering, the state of each
bit determines the trigger – in this
case, 010X10XX (X= don’t care if
high or low).
“POWER” button to make the connection to the BS300N model at BitScope’s
Sydney office. Watch out though –
someone else might be fiddling with
the controls, too!
Note: your firewall rules must allow UDP connections on port 16,385
($4001) for BitScope communication
over the Internet.
Final thoughts
Unfortunately, we can’t hope to cover
every feature of DSO or indeed the
BS310U in this short review. Although
it’s already a mature product, BitScope
continue to develop their DSO software, as can be seen with the addition
of their “Waveform Intuitive Display
Engine” (WIDE) in the latest release.
We’ll leave it up to you to discover
exactly what WIDE can do!
At time of publication, the BS310U
was priced at $650.12 plus GST and
delivery. Scope probes and logic pods
are not included in the price but can
be ordered separately. Other models,
including a larger quad-channel version, are also available.
Check out www.bitscope.com for
all the details or phone (02) 9436 2955.
If you live in Sydney, you can drop
into their office at G03/28 Chandos
SC
St, St. Leonards.
November 2006 71
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
Using the convex lenses from
fancy car headlights
Good quality convex lenses can be salvaged
for next to nothing from car wrecking yards.
Here’s how to use them to make a really bright
handheld spotlight or a broad-beam bike light.
W
HEN YOU WATCH cars go by
at night, you can see a variety
of headlight designs on display. For
example, old cars use sealed beams
which are often rather yellow in appearance. Then there are the whiter designs with replaceable halogen bulbs,
while recent luxury cars feature high
intensity discharge lights which have
a brilliant blue/white colour.
Projector headlights
There are also lights which, when
viewed at an angle, have red or blue
beams graduating to white as the car
is seen face-on. These headlights have
an abrupt beam cut-off and a very even
spread of light within the beam. They
are known as “projector” headlights
and use a simple reflector teamed with
a large convex glass lens.
Want to know something? Those
A projector headlight is easily recognised because of its convex glass lens.
72 Silicon Chip
large glass lenses can be obtained for
nearly nothing from broken headlights at car wreckers. Want to know
something else? They make excellent
lenses for use in bike lights, torches
and handheld spotlights.
Fig.1 shows a typical projector car
headlight. From the front, there’s a
cover plate of glass or plastic. Behind
that is the convex glass lens (normally
used only on low beam), followed by
the bulb and then a simple reflector.
The bulb is masked so that the upper
part of the beam is abruptly cut off, to
avoid blinding oncoming drivers
The single headlight assembly also
contains a high beam, which usually
comprises a conventional halogen lamp
and a reflector. The headlight is near
worthless to the wrecker if the cover
glass is broken, the high beam is broken, the low beam is broken or the rear
plastic housing is shattered.
However, if the low beam convex
glass lens is intact, the convex lens
can be bought for next to nothing. For
example, at a major wrecking yard, I
found and salvaged three convex lenses and took them to the front counter.
I made the point that I hadn’t needed
to break any headlights to obtain the
lenses and asked for a price. The man
behind the counter was puzzled: what
on earth did I want these lenses for? I
told the truth – I was making a bicycle
headlight – and he charged me $10
for all three.
On another occasion, when I was
buying some other car bits, the convex
lens didn’t cost me anything extra.
Many recent cars have projector
headlights while amongst older cars,
the Mazda 626 and Ford Telstar are the
siliconchip.com.au
Large convex glass lens are easily
salvaged from wrecked car headlights
that use a “projector” design. These
lenses use high transmission glass and
are optically accurate.
most common. Some Nissan imports
also have them, including one car that
has two such lenses each side.
If you are salvaging the lens from a
headlight with a broken cover glass,
be very careful. It is extremely easy
to cut yourself on the shards of glass,
especially if you slip while wielding
a screwdriver.
Incidentally, smaller lenses of a
similar shape can also be salvaged
from old slide projectors.
Using the lens
So you have a bunch of high-quality,
large, convex glass lenses that you’ve
obtained for nearly nothing. Now
what? I could get all theoretical and
talk about focal lengths and beam angles and point sources but let’s forget
all that. The easiest way of coming up
with the best design for your particular
application is to simply play around
with the light source and the different
lenses.
For example, a Luxeon LED makes
an excellent light source as it is small,
very bright and has high efficacy.
Power-up the LED (after mounting it
on a suitable heatsink if it’s a 3W or
5W design) and hold the convex lens
in front of it.
Now view the beam pattern on a
wall or the ceiling. By altering the
distance between the lens and the
LED, it’s possible to change the beam
from a broad diffuse beam to a narrow
spot. In the case of the Luxeon, you can
also try matching the glass lens with
the various collimators available for
these LEDs.
The lenses can also be used with
siliconchip.com.au
This photo shows the components needed for a bright, wide-angle light (from
left and then clockwise): convex glass lens salvaged from a projector car
headlight; shortened stainless steel drinking cup and bracket made from
aluminium angle; and a 1W Luxeon LED and narrow angle collimator mounted
on a salvaged aluminium block. Missing from this photo is a cut-down U-PVC
plumbing cap to hold the lens in place over the end of the cup.
Fig.1: this diagram shows a “projector” type car headlight. The main
optical element is a large convex glass lens mounted within the headlight
assembly (1) and this replaces the reflector and flat glass lens used on
other headlights. A shield (2) prevents on-coming driver glare, while (3)
is the rudimentary headlight reflector and (4) is the bulb. [Bosch]
conventional incandescent bulbs and
reflectors (and incidentally, lots of
working torches with perfectly good
reflectors are thrown away each day).
Again, it’s a case of trying different
combinations and looking at the results.
If the lens is placed very close to
the light source, it’s possible to get an
extremely broad beam, which greatly
November 2006 73
The Luxeon LED, its collimator and the mounting block
are attached to the base of the cup using screws and nuts.
The convex lens fits over the mouth of the cup to provide
a broad, even beam.
enhances its visibility at night. It’s just
the shot for a flashing warning light or
bicycle tail-light.
Building a compact light
I used a convex lens from a car headlight to make a very bright, broad beam,
flashing tail-light for a bike.
First, a stainless steel drinking cup
was shortened in length using a hacksaw and file. This gave a housing with
an opening that matched the diameter
of the lens. A 1W red Luxeon LED
and a narrow-beam collimator were
then installed on a small block of alu-
They’re Glass
The convex lenses salvaged from
car headlights are made from high
quality optical glass. So if you drop
them, hit them or squeeze them
hard enough, they’ll shatter!
Here the lens has been reversed compared to its normal
automotive orientation, with the curved (convex) side
facing the light source. This design is being used as a rear
light on a road-going recumbent pedal trike.
minium (a 1W Luxeon doesn’t need a
heatsink but having one doesn’t hurt),
after which the block was mounted in
the base of the cup.
Next, a U-PVC plastic pipe cap to
suit the diameter of the lens was obtained and its inner diameter cut out
with a holesaw. This gave a flange that
fitted over the end of the cup, holding
the lens in place. Silicone sealant was
then used to secure the cap in place
and to weatherproof the opening.
In this application, the best results
were obtained by reversing the lens as
compared to its normal car orientation
– ie, it was mounted with the convex
part of the lens facing the LED.
The Luxeon LED was powered by
a 12V cigarette lighter phone charger
adaptor which was modified to act as
a constant current source (see “Cheap
1W Luxeon LED Driver” on page 101
of the August issue of SILICON CHIP).
A modified “Nitrous Fuel Controller”
Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without a
lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use bits
and pieces sourced from discards, sometimes in mini-projects and other times as
an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
74 Silicon Chip
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear from
you. Perhaps you use the pressure switch
from a washing machine to control a pump.
Or maybe you have a use for the highquality bearings from VCR heads. Or
perhaps you’ve found how the guts of a
cassette player can be easily turned into
a metal detector. (Well, we made the last
one up but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
Stainless Steel Cup
As detailed in the main text, a
stainless steel drinking cup makes
an excellent housing for the convex
lens. Single wall stainless steel
drinking cups can now be very
hard to find but Coastal Kitchen
and Cutlery on the Gold Coast
(07 5526 9399) have them in stock
at $5.50 each. A double wall (ie,
insulated) cup can also be used
but it is heavier and a little more
difficult to cut and drill.
circuit (from in SILICON CHIP’S High
Performance Electronics for Cars) was
used to flash the LED.
Modifying the Nitrous Fuel Controller is simple – all you have to do is
substitute a 2.2mF 16V capacitor for
the original 220nF timing capacitor.
This gives a flash rate of about 4Hz,
with the duty cycle of the flash able to
be altered by the on-board pot.
So why go to all this bother when
LED tail-light flashers are cheaply
available? Well, you’ve never seen a
flasher like this. It is extremely bright
from directly behind and can be seen
at distances of 500 metres or more.
The convex lens creates a broader
beam than would otherwise be achiev
ed, allowing the light to be visible
over a much wider angle than just
having the LED on its own. This effect is further enhanced by reflections
from the internal walls of the stainless
SC
steel cup.
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BitScope Designs
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Phone: (02) 9436 2955 Fax: (02) 9436 3764
November 2006 75
By JOHN CLARKE
Con t r ol h i gh - cur r en t loa ds w i t h t h is
DC Relay Switch
Want to switch power to a high-current load
using a circuit capable of supplying just a
few milliamps? No problem – build and use
the SILICON CHIP DC Relay Switch.
I
T’S OFTEN NECESSARY to switch
power to a device that requires a
current of several amps in order to
drive it. The problem is, the device
that’s required to do the switching
may only be capable of supplying just
a few milliamps. Such a circuit might
be capable of switching on a LED but
that’s about all.
The way around this problem is to
use a relay with heavy-duty contacts
to switch the power. However, your
electronic switching circuit may not
even have sufficient power to drive a
relay coil – at least not directly.
This DC Relay Switch board is the
answer to that type of situation. It
utilises a heavy-duty relay with 30A
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Automotive-style high-current relay
Operates from 12V DC power supply
Suitable for low-voltage switching only (up to 50V DC)
Activated by low current
Isolated input to provide flexible switching options
Can be activated using a low-voltage AC signal or an oscillating signal
Relay-on LED indication
Normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) relay output terminals
76 Silicon Chip
contacts, runs from a 12V supply and
requires just 400mA of signal to trigger the relay. That’s made possible
by using an optocoupler and some
simple electronic circuitry to drive
the relay.
What’s more, the input trigger signal
does not have to be ground referenced.
This means that you can drive the relay
board from just about any DC signal,
whether it normally sits at around
12V, 5V or 0V. It can even be driven
by low-voltage AC or by a signal that
is rapidly switching on and off.
Current drive
In practice, the DC Relay Switch
requires a current to drive it rather
than a voltage. A signal current of just
400mA or more switches the relay on
and when there is no current, the relay
switches off.
In practice, this means that you can
drive the relay switch board using an
external circuit that normally drives
a LED. When the LED is on, the relay
is on and vice versa. Alternatively,
the relay board can be connected so
that the relay is off when the external
LED is lit.
If the LED is multiplexed (ie, switch
ed on and off) at a fast rate, then the relay
board can be configured to switch on the
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
Fig.1: the circuit is triggered by applying a signal to optocoupler OPTO1.
When the phototransistor in OPTO1 turns on, it turns on transistor Q1 and
this then turns on transistor Q2 which drives the relay and LED1.
relay while ever the LED is being driven
by the switching circuitry. A LED on the
DC Relay Switch board provides on/
off indication for the relay (ie, it lights
when the relay switches on and goes
off when the relay is off).
As shown in the photos, the DC
Relay Switch comprises a small PC
board that includes the relay, the optoisolator, two transistors and various
other minor components. It is powered
from a 12V DC supply via an on-board
screw terminal block. A second 2-way
screw terminal block is used for the
trigger signal inputs.
External connections to the relay
contacts can be made using either PCmount spade connectors or a 3-way
screw terminal block. The spade
connectors are best for high-current
applications.
Finally, the PC board can be fitted
inside a small plastic (UB5) utility
case, if this is required.
OPTO1 from breaking down and dissipating too much power if a reverse
voltage is applied. In this case, D3
conducts and limits the voltage across
the LED to a safe value (ie, to about
0.6V).
When current flows in the optocoupler LED, the optotransistor
conducts and supplies base current
to transistor Q1 via the 22kW resistor
from the 12V supply rail. This switches Q1 on which in turn switches Q2
on via its associated 1kW base resistor.
And when Q2 switches on, relay RLY1
also switches on, as does LED1.
The 10kW resistor between Q1’s base
and ground ensures that Q1 switches
off when the phototransistor in OPTO1
turns off. Similarly, the 1kW resistor
between Q2’s base and emitter ensures
that this transistor switches off when
Q1 switches off.
The 1mF capacitor on Q1’s base is
necessary if the input is driven using
How it works
OK, let’s see how the circuit works
– see Fig.1.
As shown, the input trigger signal is
applied to the LED inside optocoupler
OPTO1 via a 1kW resistor. This resistor limits the LED current to less than
12mA for a 12V signal and to less than
5mA for a 5V signal.
Diode D3 prevents the LED inside
siliconchip.com.au
1 PC board, code 05211061, 46
x 61mm
1 UB5 box, 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 SPDT PC mount horn relay
(Jaycar SY-4072, Altronics S
4206A or equivalent) (RELAY1)
2 2-way screw terminal connectors (5.08mm pin spacing)
1 3-way screw terminal connectors (5.08mm pin spacing)
3 PC mount 6.4mm spade connectors
1 2-way pin header (2.54mm pin
spacing)
4 M3 x 12mm countersunk Nylon
screws & nuts
4 3mm Nylon washers
4 M3 nuts
1 jumper shunt
Semiconductors
1 4N28 optocoupler (IC1)
1 BC549 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q2)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D2)
1 1N4148 diode (D3)
1 3mm red LED
Capacitors
1 220mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 1mF 16V PC electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 22kW
1 2.2kW
1 10kW
3 1kW
an AC signal or some other switching
signal. This capacitor is connected into
circuit using link LK1 and filters the
resulting signal on pin 4 of OPTO1
to produce a steady DC voltage. This
ensures that Q1 remains on while ever
the input signal is applied.
Note that LK1 is only necessary for
AC input signals. It can be left out of
circuit (ie, the 1mF capacitor is disconnected) for DC trigger signals.
Operating The Circuit From 24V DC
Want to operate the DC Relay Switch from 24V DC? Here’s how to do it:
•
•
•
Use a 24V relay instead of a 12V relay – eg, the Altronics S 4208A 24V
30A relay (Jaycar do not have a 24V version).
Increase the voltage rating of all capacitors to 35V.
Change the 2.2kW resistor in series with LED1 to 4.7kW 0.25W.
November 2006 77
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board as shown in this layout diagram. Be
careful not to get transistors Q1 & Q2 mixed up – they may look identical
but Q1 is a BC549 (NPN) while Q2 is a BC327 (PNP).
Diode D2 provides spike protection
for transistor Q2 when the relay is
switched off. It shunts the back-EMF
voltage spike generated when the relay
switches off – a necessary precaution
to prevent “punch-through” of the
transistor.
Power for the circuit can be derived
from any suitable 12V DC supply
(eg, a plugpack or battery). Diode D1
provides reverse polarity protection,
while a 220mF capacitor decouples
the supply.
Construction
The DC Relay Switch is built on a
Warning!
DO NOT use this DC Relay
Switch to switch 240V AC mains
voltages. The relay is not designed
to do this and it is dangerous to connect mains to the bare PC board.
If you do need to switch mains
voltages, then use this board to trigger an external mains-rated relay. A
suitable mains switching relay was
published in the May 2006 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
PC board coded 05211061 and measuring 46 x 61mm. This fits inside a UB5
box and is secured using four M3 x
12mm countersink Nylon screws and
nuts. A 3mm Nylon washer is used
between the PC board and the case at
each mounting point, to lift the board
clear of the base.
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on the
PC board. Begin by checking the PC
board for any defects such as broken
tracks and shorts between adjacent
tracks. That done, check the corner
hole sizes – these should all be 3mm
in diameter. In addition the holes for
the relay pins and the screw terminal
blocks must be large enough to accept
these parts.
Once all the hole sizes are correct,
begin the assembly by installing the
resistors. Table 1 shows the resistor
colour codes but it’s a good idea to also
check them using a digital multimeter,
just to make sure.
Next, install the diodes and the
optocoupler (OPTO1), making sure
they go in with the correct polarity.
Follow these with the capacitors,
transistors Q1 & Q2, the LED and the
relay. Take care with the polarity of
the capacitors and LED.
Transistors Q1 & Q2 come in iden-
tical (TO-92) packages so be careful
not to get them mixed up. Q1 is an
NPN BC549 type, while Q2 is a PNP
BC327 and the circuit won’t work if
you transpose them or install them
the wrong way around.
As mentioned previously, you can
use either a 3-way screw terminal connector or PC-mount spade connectors
to make the external connections to
the COM, NO & NC relay contacts.
Use the spade connectors if the relay
terminals are to carry currents in excess of 2A via.
Finally, install the 2-way pin header
for LK1. The link itself can be left out
if you intend to trigger the board using
a DC input signal. Alternatively, install
the link if you want delayed switch-on
and switch-off for the relay, or if you
intend using an AC input signal (see
below).
Testing
OK, now for the smoke test. You
will need a 12V DC supply rated at
about 150mA to power the board.
Connect this to the +12V and 0V
terminals, making sure you get the
polarity right.
Initially, when you apply power,
nothing should happen. You can now
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
3
78 Silicon Chip
Value
22kW
10kW
2.2kW
1kW
4-Band Code (1%)
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the various triggering options. In (a) the relay board is triggered by a signal that goes from low to high (+5V or
+12V); in (b) by a signal that goes to 0V; and in (c) by an external circuit that turns on an indicator LED.
check if the circuit works by connecting the negative (-) signal input to 0V
and the positive (+) input to the +12V
rail. When you do so, the relay should
immediately switch on and the LED
should light.
How to use it
Fig.3 shows three different circuit
configurations that can be used to
trigger the relay board.
Fig.3(a) shows how to turn the relay
on using a signal output that goes high
(ie, to 5V or 12V). Conversely, Fig.3(b)
shows how to rearrange the wiring
so that the relay turns on for a signal
output that goes low (ie, to 0V).
Fig.3(c) shows how to drive the relay board from a circuit that normally
powers a LED. Note that if the LED is
multiplexed when it is lit (ie, switched
on and off at a fast rate), the relay may
chatter on and off. Inserting link LK1 to
connect the 1mF capacitor into circuit
should stop this chattering.
In all three above cases, if you want
delayed switch-on and switch-off for
the relay, increase the value of the 1mF
capacitor. A value of 220mF will give
a nominal 1-second delay.
Note that it is important that the
trigger circuit be capable of providing
the required current to the relay board
input. The relay board will draw about
3mA when there is 5V between its “+”
and “–” inputs and 10mA when there
is 12V between these terminals.
If this exceeds what the trigger circuit can deliver, then the 1kW resistor
in series with pin 1 of the optocoupler
can be increased. Doubling this resistor (eg, to 2.2kW) will halve the current
requirement but if you ultimately go
too high in value, the optotransistor
may not turn on sufficiently to drive
the relay circuit.
The minimum recommended trigger
current is 400mA. This corresponds to
using a 22kW resistor in series with
OPTO1 for a 12V power supply and a
SC
7.5kW resistor for a 5V supply.
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siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 79
LED Tachometer
Com p le t in g t h e c on s t r uc t ion &
ch a n gin g t h e s e t t in gs
Pt.2: By JOHN CLARKE
Setting up the LED Tacho mainly involves
stepping through and reprogramming the
default software settings in the PIC to suit
your vehicle. Here’s how it’s done.
H
AVING COMPLETED the PC
board assemblies and made up
the connecting cable as described
last month, it’s now time to test the
tachometer. However, before applying
power, check that all parts are in their
correct locations and are correctly
oriented. Check also for any solder
shorts between the board tracks and
IC pads.
Do not connect the display PC board
to the main board yet – that step comes
later, after the initial voltage checks. In
addition, the PIC micro (IC3) should
be left out of its socket.
Once you are satisfied that every80 Silicon Chip
thing is correct, apply power (12V DC)
to the main PC board and check that
pins 4 & 14 on IC3’s socket are at +5V.
That done, monitor the voltage at TP1
(with respect to 0V) and check that this
voltage can be varied from about 2-5V
using trimpot VR1.
If this checks out, switch off the
power and install IC3 in its socket –
see Fig.5 last month. Make sure that
this IC is oriented correctly; ie, with
its notched end towards the adjacent
100nF capacitor.
Next, connect the display board to
the main board using the IDC cable,
then set VR1 fully anticlockwise and
VR6 fully clockwise. Trimpots VR2,
VR3, VR4 & VR5 should all be set to
mid-position.
Apply power and you should be
greeted by a single “0” on the digital
display (ie, on the righthand digit). In
addition, LED1 in the bargraph should
light. If this does not happen, switch
off immediately and check for assembly errors (ie, parts placement, faulty
or missed solder joints, solder shorts
between IC pads, etc).
Testing the displays
Assuming everything is OK so far,
you can now test the displays by
switching off and then pressing the Up
switch (S3) while you re-apply power.
If you keep this switch pressed, the
display should show all “eights”, with
the two far-left decimal points also
lighting. In other words, you should see
8.8.88 (do not expect the two righthand
decimal points to light).
siliconchip.com.au
At the same time, each LED on
the circular bargraph should light in
sequence, followed by the shift LED
when the bargraph sequence is completed. The lighting sequence should
then start again.
Now release the switch – the display should now show a “1” and the
unit will be placed in the settings
mode. To exit from this mode,
simply switch off and re-apply
power without pressing the Up
switch.
If any of the LEDs fails to
light, check its orientation and
the soldering. Check also for
broken tracks or shorts between
pads and tracks. Alternatively, the
LED itself may be faulty.
Operating The Tacho From 24V DC
Want to operate the LED Tachometer and DC Relay Switch from 24V DC?
Here’s how to do it:
Tachometer
•
•
•
Change the 220W resistor feeding zener diode ZD1 to 1kW 1W
Increase the voltage rating of the 100mF 16V capacitor at the input of
regulator REG1 to 35V
Increase the voltage rating of the 470mF 25V low-ESR capacitor following D1 to 35V
DC Relay Switch
•
•
•
Use a 24V relay instead of a 12V relay – eg, the Altronics S 4208A 24V
30A relay (Jaycar do not have a 24V version).
Increase the voltage rating of all capacitors to 35V.
Change the 2.2kW resistor in series with LED1 to 4.7kW 0.25W.
Dimming response
The next step is to adjust the dimming response but first adjust VR1 so
that the display is reasonably bright.
You can do this using just the “0”
display on the righthand digit to judge
the brightness or you can use the preceding display test mode to light all
the display segments.
There are two sets of dimming controls and these allow you to balance
the segment brightness on the 7-digit
displays. This is necessary because
the top and bottom segments of each
display are driven by different driver
ICs.
Begin by adjusting VR2 and VR3 so
that the top segments have the same
brightness as the bottom segments. In
practice, you should not need to vary
these much from the previously set
half-way position. Do not turn these
trimpots fully anticlockwise, otherwise the dimming effect will be lost.
Trimpot VR6 sets the dimming
threshold – ie, the ambient light level
where dimming begins. You can simulate this by placing your finger over
the LDR. It’s just a matter of turning
VR6 so that the displays begin to dim
as the LDR is shadowed. That done,
cover the LDR completely and adjust
VR4 & VR5 to set the minimum display
brightness.
Changing the settings
As mentioned, the various settings
for the tachometer are changed using
a special mode of operation (ie, the
“settings” mode). As described above,
this mode is invoked by holding down
the Up switch and simultaneously applying power to the unit (if this switch
siliconchip.com.au
is not pressed, the tachometer operates
in “normal” mode).
Initially, the unit will go through the
display test cycle just described and
this is repeated for as long as the Up
switch is pressed. Releasing the Up
switch then causes the display to show
a “1” and invokes the settings mode.
The Green Mode LED will also be lit
and this indicates that the display is
showing the current mode selection
(the default is mode 1). You can now
change the mode by using the Up or
Down switches to select from mode 1
through to mode 13.
For each mode, you can force the
display to show its current setting by
pressing the Toggle switch. During this
time, the Red settings LED will light
and the Mode LED will be off. The
settings are changed by using the Up
and Down switches
Basically, you have to step through
and set each mode in turn. These
modes and their options are as follows:
Mode 1 – No. Of Cylinders: enter in
the exact number of cylinders for a
4-stroke engine (1-12 cylinders). In
operation, each cylinder in a 4-stroke
engine fires once every two-engine
revolutions. This means that a 4-cylinder 4-stroke engine delivers two
pulses per revolution to the tachometer, while 6-cylinder and 8-cylinder
engines respectively deliver three and
four pulses per revolution.
A selection of “11” (or “7”) should
be made for a 2-cylinder asymmetrical
4-stroke motorcycle engine, where the
firing spacings between each cylinder
are uneven. This gives a steadier RPM
reading compared to using the 2-cylinder option. Similarly, use a “9” setting
for an asymmetrically fired 3-cylinder
4-stroke engine.
Two stroke engines are also catered
for. For these, simply use a cylinder
number that’s double the actual number of cylinders. For example, select
“2” for a 1-cylinder 2-stroke, 4 for a
2-cylinder 2-stroke, etc.
Mode 2 – Red LEDs: this setting refers
to the number of red LEDs used for the
red line. During construction, you may
choose how many red LEDs to use and
these are placed at the clockwise end
of the bargraph display. The number of
LEDs is nominally set at “5”, however
any number from 0-10 can be accommodated.
Mode 3 – Red Line: this mode is used
to set the maximum (or red-line) RPM
recommended for your engine. The
default setting is 9000 RPM but you
can alter this in 100 RPM steps from
0 RPM to above 30,000 RPM. Note
that this display is shown in a x1000
RPM format. So 9000 RPM will be
shown as 9.00 and 10,000 RPM will
be displayed as 10.00. The tachometer
will light the first of the red LEDs at
the red-line RPM.
Mode 4 – RPM/LED: this mode shows
the RPM increment for each LED in
the bargraph. It is automatically recalculated when ever the number of
red-line LEDs is changed (see mode 2)
and when the red line RPM is changed
(see mode 3).
The calculation subtracts the num
ber of red LEDs from the total of 32
November 2006 81
Table 1: Tachometer Settings
Mode
Possible Settings
Notes
1. Cylinder Number
From 1-12
Select exact number for a 4-stroke engine or use twice the cylinder number
for a 2-stroke engine. Select 11 (or 7) for an asymmetrical 2-cylinder
4-stroke engine, 9 for an asymmetrical 3-cylinder 4-stroke and 6 for a
3-cylinder 2-stroke.
2. No. Of Red LEDs
From 0-10
Allows changes to red-line bargraph display length.
3. Red-Line RPM
From 0 to above 30,000 RPM
Sets red-line RPM at first red LED.
4. RPM/LED
Automatically changed
No manual adjustment. Automatically adjusted with changes to Modes 2
and 3.
5. Shift Light RPM
From 0 to above 30,000 RPM
If not required, set RPM well above red-line RPM.
6. Limiter RPM
From 0 to above 30,000 RPM
Limiter output changes at limit RPM (see mode 12).
7. Hysteresis
0-255 RPM
Prevents LEDs flickering on and off at threshold.
Set at less than the RPM/LED value from mode 4.
8. Display Update
0-510ms in 2ms steps
Sets digital display updates to a comfortable rate.
9. Display Format
0, 1, 2
1: 9999 RPM, 2: Decimal shift from 9.999 to 10.00, 3: 9.99 to 10.00.
10. Fixed Digits
0, 1, 10
Use 0 for 1 RPM resolution; 1 to fix units digit at 0 (10 RPM resolution); 10
to fix units and tens digits at 0 (100 RPM resolution).
11. Dot or Bar
0 or 1
Use 0 for dot bargraph display, 1 for continuous bargraph display.
12. Limiter Sense
0 or 1
Use 0 to set limit output normally low (0V). Use 1 to set limit output normally
high (ie, +5V).
13. Limiter On Period
0-510ms in 2ms steps
Sets the minimum time that the limiter output is active.
LEDs used in the bargraph and divides
this number into the red-line RPM.
This then sets the calibration of the
tachometer so that the first red LED
lights at the correct red-line RPM.
As a result, the number of red LEDs
determines the total RPM range of
the tachometer. This “RPM per LED”
value is set automatically and cannot
be changed manually.
Mode 5 – Shift Light: this mode allows
the shift-light RPM to be set. It can
be altered in 100 RPM steps from the
default value of 8000 RPM, over the
range from zero to above 30,000 RPM.
The setting is in a x1000 RPM format;
eg, 8000 RPM is displayed as 8.00.
Mode 6 – Limiter RPM: this mode sets
the limiter RPM. In operation, the
limiter output changes when the measured RPM goes above this setting and
the output level depends on the sense
setting (see mode 12).
82 Silicon Chip
This setting can be altered in 100
RPM steps from the default of 9900
RPM over a range from zero to above
30,000 RPM. Once again, the display
is in a x1000 RPM format; eg, 10,000
RPM will be displayed as 10.00.
Mode 7 – Hysteresis: this setting controls the way the LEDs light in the
bargraph. As the RPM increases, successively higher LEDs will light up
but at the threshold RPM where a LED
just lights, there will tend to be some
flicker as engine RPM varies slightly
(ie, the LED rapidly switches on and
off). To prevent this, you can add hysteresis. The hysteresis does not affect
the RPM at which each LED will light
with rising RPM but it prevents the
last lit LED from extinguishing unless the RPM drops by the hysteresis
RPM setting.
The default hysteresis setting is 50
RPM and this can be altered in 1 RPM
steps from 0-255 RPM. Note that the
hysteresis value must be less than the
RPM/LED value (see mode 4).
Mode 8 – Digital Display Update Period:
the LED bargraph is updated every
1ms but this is much too fast for the
digital display to be read if there are
any RPM changes. As a result, the
digital display update is slowed down
to a more comfortable rate.
Typically, a 200ms update period (or
five changes per second) is suitable. It
can be altered from the default setting
of 250ms in steps of 2 from 0-510ms.
Mode 9 – Display Format: this adjustment is mainly to cater for engines
that rev above 10,000 RPM. The initial
setting of “0” sets the display to show
RPM from 0-9999 RPM. Above this figure, the display shows a “0” for 10,000
RPM, “1000” for 11,000 RPM etc. Use
this setting for engines that do not rev
above 10,000 or which only occasionsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: this diagram shows how to make the bracket and rear panel for the
display housing, while the cross-section diagram at left shows how the
display assembly goes together.
ally rev to this RPM level.
For engines that do rev above 10,000
RPM, a “1” or “2” setting will be best.
The “1” setting shows the RPM with a
shifting decimal point. Below 10,000
RPM the display will show, for example, 9.999 RPM (ie, 9999 RPM), while
at 10,000 RPM and above the display
decimal point will shift to the right
and show the RPM using two digits
for the 1000’s value.
For example, at 10,000 RPM the
display will show 10.00.
siliconchip.com.au
This is the rear panel (inside view) prior to mounting the PC board. Note
the three nuts soldered around the periphery.
November 2006 83
The PVC tubing is fitted with a neutral-tint filter and is secured to the
PC board and rear panel assembly using three Nylon screws. A black
display mask made from film ensures that only the LEDs are visible.
If you don’t want the shifting decimal point, select “2”. This will fix the
decimal point for two 1000’s digits
so, for example, 9999 RPM will be
displayed as 9.99, while 10,000 RPM
will be displayed as 10.00.
Note that for a “2” setting, resolution
is reduced to 10 RPM (ie, there’s no
units digit). Similarly, for a “1” setting,
the resolution is reduced to 10 RPM
for RPM values above 9999.
Mode 10 – Resolution: in some cases,
displaying the RPM to 1 RPM resolution will only be a distraction since
the engine may never be stable enough
to keep this digit steady – even at a
constant throttle. In this case, you
can select a “1” for this mode so that
the far righthand digit always shows
a zero (ie, the resolution is reduced to
10 RPM). Note that this won’t change
the display for a “2” setting in Mode
8, because the units digit is not shown.
Alternatively, selecting “10” in this
mode sets both the units and tens digits to 0. The resolution for the digital
display will then be 100 RPM.
Mode 11 – Dot or Bargraph: you use
this mode to select whether the LED
bargraph operates in dot mode (ie, one
84 Silicon Chip
You will have to drill and cut suitable holes in the rear panel to accept the
power supply and input signal wiring and the IDC cable header.
LED lit at any time) or as a continuous
bargraph. Select a “0” for dot mode or
a “1” for continuous bargraph mode.
Mode 12 – Limiter Sense: this mode
selects the output sense of the limiter. If “0” is set, the limiter output is
normally at 0V and goes to +5V when
the RPM rises above the limit setting.
Conversely, if “1” is set, the limiter
output is normally at +5V and goes to
0V when the limit setting (set in Mode
6) is reached.
siliconchip.com.au
Connecting A Rev Limiter To The LED Tachometer
The limiter output from the tacho
meter can optionally be used to drive
a separate circuit that limits the maximum engine RPM. You can either use
an ignition control circuit to do this or
a fuel control circuit.
Let’s take a closer look at both
these options.
(1) Ignition Control Limiting
An ignition limiter control was published in SILICON CHIP for April 1999.
Called a “Rev Limiter”, it’s suitable
for use with cars that have a single
ignition coil.
When the rev limit is reached, the
tachometer’s limit output activates
the engine limiter, which then acts
to reduce the number of sparks per
revolution.
Note that you don’t have to use the
whole circuit from the Rev Limiter. Instead, you only have to use the Ignition
Switcher circuit that was assembled
on the separate PC board.
This Ignition Switcher uses a single
555 timer IC and several transistors
to drive a high-voltage Darlington
output transistor. When the rev limit
is reached, this transistor shunts out
the main switching transistor in the
car’s ignition system for about 50%
of time, thus reducing the
engine power and thereby
limiting the engine RPM to
the red-line.
The two circuits are
easy to marry – all you
have to do is connect the
limit output from the LED
Tachometer directly to the
terminal marked “From Rev
Limit Controller” on the Ignition
Switcher. A suitable value for C1 must
be chosen for the Ignition Switcher
from the table published in the April
1999 issue. This sets the requisite
Mode 13 – Limiter On Period: this sets the
minimum period that the limiter output is active in order to reduce engine
RPM to a point below the limit setting.
We suggest experimenting with the on
periods at a low RPM limit setting and
then altering the RPM limit (in Mode
6) to its final value afterwards.
OK, that completes the setting up
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: here’s how to wire the tachometer to the DC Relay Switch board
to provide fuel-cut limiting of engine
RPM.
number of sparks that are blocked out
during the limiting action.
Note that if the LED Tachometer
derives its input signal from the coil, it
will sense that the RPM has dropped
as soon as the coil is prevented from
“sparking” via the limiter action. This
means that the limit action may not
be as smooth as it would be if the
tachometer signal were derived from
a different source, such as the tacho
meter output from the ECU.
The limit output from the tachometer
will remain low to disable the spark for
the period that you select. A value of
300ms should provide sufficient time
for the limit action to take place. Note
that you must set the tachometer’s
limiter sense to a “1”, so that the limiter
output is normally at 5V and goes to
0V at the limit point.
(2) Fuel Cut-Out Limiting
A suitable fuel cut-out circuit is
published elsewhere in this issue of
SILICON CHIP. It’s called a “DC Relay
Switch” and it can be used with the
procedure. Now let’s complete the
construction
Tachometer housing
If you have an old car, you may
be able to install the display board
within the existing instrument cluster.
Depending on the car, it could either
be fitted into a blank space or used
tachometer’s limit output to switch off
the supply to the fuel injectors.
Note that it is suitable only for cars
with injectors that are electrically
driven (as used in most cars).
The tacho’s limiter output drives the
relay board as shown in Fig.9. When
the red-line limit is reached, the normally closed (NC) relay contacts open
and interrupt the positive supply rail
to the fuel injectors.
The unit is easy to install – just
break the +12V supply lead to the
injectors and connect the supply side
to the relay’s COM (common) terminal.
The NC (normally closed) contact is
then connected to the injectors.
Note that you must set the tachometer’s limiter sense to “0” (in Mode
12), so that the limiter output is normally at 0V but goes to +5V at the limit
point. You may need to experiment
with the limiter on period (set up in
Mode 13) for best results. Start with
a period of 100ms and decrease or
increase this value until you are happy
with the limiter action.
to replace an unused instrument (eg,
a clock).
Alternatively, the display board can
be built into a small cylindrical housing (see photos). This can be mounted
inside the car by attaching it to the
windscreen using a suction cap, or it
can be fastened to the dashboard via
a custom mounting bracket.
November 2006 85
Fig.10: the LED Tachometer can derive its input signal from a variety of trigger sources, as shown here. In most
modern cars, you will be able to use the tachometer output signal from the engine control unit (ECU).
A suitable housing can be made using a 90mm-diameter PVC pipe cut to
a length of 21mm. In addition, you will
need a 90mm-diameter galvanisedsteel plate for the rear panel and this
should be cut and drilled as shown
in Fig.8.
Three M3 nuts are then soldered
around the circumference of this disc
in the locations shown. Having done
that, carefully mark out and drill three
3mm-diameter countersink in the PVC
tube, to exactly line up with these nuts.
These holes must also be positioned
5mm in from the rear edge of the tube
and should all be countersunk using
a slightly oversize drill.
Be sure to accurately position these
holes around the circumference of the
PVC tube, so that they line up with the
nuts on the rear plate.
The IDC cable passes through a slot
in the edge of the plate. This is made
by making two cuts and then folding
the edge over to as shown in one of
the photos.
That done, fit four M3 x 6mm-long
tapped Nylon spacers to the four inner
86 Silicon Chip
holes marked “X” on Fig.8 and secure
them using M3 x 12mm Nylon screws.
The PC board can then be mounted
on these spacers and secured using
Nylon nuts.
The next job is to make up the aluminium bracket shown in Fig.8. This
bracket is attached to the rear plate using M3 Nylon screws, nuts and washers and is fitted with a suction cap to
secure the display to the windscreen.
You will have to bend the bracket by
20-30° before attaching it to the end
plate, to compensate for the rake of
the windscreen.
Note that it may also be necessary to
fit a Nylon washer between the bracket
and the rear panel at each mounting
point, so that the bracket clears the
rear lip of the PVC tube.
Alternatively, you can fashion a
suitable bracket to attach the display
to the dashboard.
All that remains now is the final assembly. The cross-sectional diagram in
Fig.8 shows how it all goes together.
As with the rear plate, the neutraltint front display filter is also 90mm
in diameter and should be a tight fit
into the PVC tube, so that it stays in
place. Apply a couple of small blobs
of silicone sealant to the inside rim to
secure it in place if it’s a loose fit.
If necessary, a black display mask
(made from film) can be used to blank
out all but the LED displays, so that
the PC board and other components
cannot be seen through the filter. This
will most likely be included in any kits
supplied by retailers but if not, you
can download the artwork file from
the SILICON CHIP website and print it
out on clear film.
Finally, the PC board and plate assembly can be pushed into the PVC
tube and secured using three M3 x
12mm countersink Nylon screws.
Installation
The first job here is to mount the
control box in a suitable location.
This needs to go somewhere under the
dashboard in a car or inside the side
panels of a motorcycle (use silicone
sealant to waterproof the cases).
Power for the unit can be derived
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The IDC cable emerges from
the display unit via a 15mmwide slot in the rear panel. At
top right is a close-up view of
the bracket and suction-cup
assembly which allows the
unit to be easily attached to a
car’s windscreen.
from an ignition-switched +12V supply, along with an earth (ie, chassis)
connection. In most cars, you will be
able to make the +12V connection at
the fusebox. Connect to the fused side
of the switched +12V supply and use
automotive cable and crimp connectors to make the connections.
Depending on the car, the input
signal for the tachometer can be obtained from the switched (negative)
side of the ignition coil primary, from
a reluctor or from a tachometer signal
provided by the engine control unit
(ECU). It’s also possible to use the
signals from a Hall effect trigger and
from optical triggers. Fig.10 shows all
the options.
In most modern cars, you can use the
ECU’s tachometer signal (C), in which
case the link on the control board
should be fitted to the LK2 position
(ie, to select a low-level input).
The link should also go in the LK2
position if you are deriving the signal
siliconchip.com.au
from a Hall effect sensor (E) or from
an optical pick-up (F & G).
Alternatively, fit the link in the LK1
(high-level signal) position selection if
the signal is derived from the switched
side of the ignition coil (A or B). This
selection should also be suitable for
most reluctors (D).
Note that you will need to experiment to determine which lead to use
for a reluctor. A reluctor has two leads
and only one will have a signal that’s
suitable for driving the tachometer. If
the tachometer only operates at higher
revs and stays at 0 RPM at lower revs,
then the reluctor signal level may not
be high enough for reliable triggering.
In this case, change the link to the LK2
position.
Note also that if the tachometer’s
reading is erratic when connected to
an ignition coil, try adding the second
47nF capacitor. In stubborn cases,
this 47nF capacitor may need to be
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increased to 100nF.
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November 2006 87
PICAXE
Net Server – Pt.3
By CLIVE SEAGER
Con t r o l y ou r n ex t el ec t r on i c s p r ojec t f r om v i r t u a l l y
a n y w h er e on t h e p l a n e t !
Over the last couple of months, we described
how to built a demo board for the PICAXE
Net Server (PNS) and then configured a
home network to make it accessible over the
Internet. This month, we look at building the
first of two Internet-enabled demonstration
projects.
T
HE PICAXE NET SERVER is an extremely versatile device. In theory,
any application suited to electronic
control could be adapted for use with
the PNS, suggesting a huge range of
applications. On the home front, the
PNS might be used to add remote
monitoring and control capabilities
to a security system, control an airconditioning unit, or feed the pets,
for example.
88 Silicon Chip
Each new application for the PNS
starts with some project design decisions. The first decision is whether you
just need simple “on-off” control of
output devices or you need to control
an automated process.
On-off control, as in the case of a
pet feeder, would be direct control of
a device over the Internet (eg, a relay
to activate a motor to open the cat-food
tray). To control the output devices (or
monitor input values), you would need
to build a simple interface circuit that
connects directly to the input/output
(I/O) pins on the PNS.
An example of an automated process would be one used to control the
environment in a greenhouse. In this
application, temperature, light and
humidity levels must be monitored
continuously and heaters, fans, lights
and sprinklers activated when necessary. The nature of this application
demands a dedicated control system,
perhaps based on a PICAXE micro.
However, the PNS could still be
used to monitor and remotely override the controller’s parameters (eg,
adjust the temperature threshold).
Depending on system’s complexity, the
PNS might need to share data (such as
temperature and humidity readings)
with the greenhouse controller. As
we’ll see later, this can be achieved
siliconchip.com.au
by memory sharing.
Notice that in the pet feeder example, the PNS is central to the entire
design, whereas in the greenhouse
example, it is just one element of an
overall system. Let’s study these two
interfacing methods as they apply to
two simple project examples, including how to generate basic web pages
for the PNS to match the hardware
setup.
First, let’s look at the simpler interfacing method, where the PNS directly
controls a motor in a cat feeder application. While you might not want to
build your own cat feeder, this simple
example clearly demonstrates how to
use on-off control and requires only a
few additional components.
Remote cat feeder
A basic feeder might consist of a
container with a sliding lid, which
is connected to a motor via a lead
screw arrangement. When the lid is in
position, the pet has no access to the
food but when the motor is activated,
the lid slides backwards (or rotates)
to expose the contents. By placing a
microswitch in an appropriate location, it would also be possible to verify
that the lid has opened and the animal
given access to the food. Jaycar Electronics stock a ready-made automatic
feeder (Cat. GH-1190) with a rotating
lid – perhaps it could be adapted for
remote control!
The circuit in Fig.1 shows how output 2 (P2) of the PNS I/O port can be
used to drive the motor via a transistor
and relay, while the microswitch and a
10kW pull-down resistor are connected
to input 3 (P3).
We’ve not produced a PC board for
this simple design and it could easily be built on a prototyping board
if desired. For demonstration purposes, you could also use the demo
board from last month to simulate
the feeder system. The green LED on
the board represents the motor, while
the pushbutton switch represents the
microswitch.
PNS web pages
Having built the circuit, we’re ready
to create an html web page for the
PNS to serve. Fig.2 shows all that’s
required: two “buttons” to start and
stop the motor and a “LED” to indicate
whether the switch is on or off. We’ve
kept the page design (and therefore
the underlying code) simple, so as
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: this simple circuit enables the PNS to control a motor-driven cat
feeder device. Output 2 (P2) of the PNS I/O port is used to drive a transistor
(Q1), which in turn actuates a relay to power the motor. The status of the
food tray door is detected by a micro-switch, which is wired to the PNS on
input 3 (P3). Variations of this circuit could be used in other applications
that require basic on/off control.
Fig.2: this basic web page enables us to switch the feeder motor on and off, as
well as view the status of the microswitch.
not to intimidate those new to html
programming!
This design is actually two separate
sections of code which are jointed
together in a frame to form one complete web page. Let’s examine the
code for the left side of the frame
first – see Listing 1: catout.cgi. It uses
html forms to display two buttons and
perform certain actions, depending on
which button is clicked.
In more detail, the name= property in the line <input type=hidden
name=01 value=2> gives the first form
its action, namely to process command “01”. Put simply, this command
means “switch an output on”. The
output to be switched is determined
by the value= property, in this case
output 2.
November 2006 89
A host of other name= commands are supported by the
PNS, facilitating tasks such as speaking a phase using the
optional speech synthesiser or updating the message on
the LCD screen. You’ll find a comprehensive command
summary on page 35 of the PNS manual.
Dynamic variables
The code for the right half of the page (Listing 2: catin.
cgi) is used to display the logic state of input 3, which is
connected to the microswitch. The state of this input is
retrieved and displayed via a process known as “dynamic
variable substitution”.
Dynamic variables are numbered from 00-99 and begin
with a question mark. Variable “67” in our code equates
to input 3, so “?67” will be automatically replaced with
the current value of input 3 (“0” or a “1”) every time the
PNS serves the web page. This means that the line will
appear in your web browser as either “The value of switch
3 is 0” or “The value of switch 3 is 1”.
Check out the “Dynamic HTML Generation” section of
the PNS manual to find out what the other 99 variables
represent!
Also of note here is the line <meta http-equiv=”refresh”
content=”3”>. This forces your web browser to automatically refresh the web page every three seconds, so you’ll
know when the switch is pressed!
Fig.3: before connecting new hardware to the PNS, it’s
imperative that the I/O configuration is set correctly
– otherwise, the PNS could be damaged. Here are the
settings for the cat feeder. Note that only bit 2 has been
changed from the original defaults.
Displaying a LED graphic
We’ve also added a “LED” graphic to the page. A green
LED (LED0.gif) is displayed when the switch is open and
a red LED (LED1.gif) when it’s closed.
This is achieved with the <img src=LED?67.gif> line in
the code. Again using dynamic variables, this line automatically expands to <img src=LED0.gif> when input 3
is low and <img src=LED1.gif> when input 3 is high – a
simple trick for improving the visual appeal of your PNS
web pages!
Putting it together
Fig.4: all of the files for the custom web page(s)
must reside in a single folder, where the “Website”
wizard will compress them prior to download to
the PNS. Don’t be tempted to store other files in this
folder, as they will consume unnecessary space in
EEPROM.
The next line generates the button for this action: <input
type=submit value=”Switch motor off”>.
The second html form operates similarly but uses
name=00 and value=2 properties instead. Deciphered,
this means “switch output 2 off”.
90 Silicon Chip
All that now remains is to arrange our two sections of
code so that they’ll be displayed side-by-side in a browser
as one page.
This is performed by a third section of code (Listing 3
– index.htm), which uses frames to achieve the task. Note
that this code must reside in a file named index.htm, so
named because it is the default website page.
The frame border can be a useful visual aid when
developing web pages but for a more professional look,
you may wish to change the border value to 0 so that it
is not displayed.
So why use frames and two separate sections of code
in the first place? Simply because we only want the input
(switch) variable to be refreshed every three seconds – not
the buttons!
Configuring the PNS
With the web page built, the next step is to configure the
PNS so that the default input/output configuration suits
the cat feeder hardware. To do this, run the Programming
Editor and select “Setup” from the PICAXE -> Wizards ->
PICAXE NetServer menu.
From the default options, change input/output 2 to
“Out” (3 is already an input – see Fig.3). Also, make sure
siliconchip.com.au
Listing 1: catout.cgi
<html>
<head>
<title>Cat Feeder Motor</title>
</head>
<body>
<center>
Click the button to switch the motor on:
<form method=get>
<input type=hidden name=01 value=2>
<input type=submit value="Switch motor on">
</form>
Click the button to switch the motor off:
<form method=get>
<input type=hidden name=00 value=2>
<input type=submit value="Switch motor off">
</form>
</body>
</html>
Listing 2: catin.cgi
<html>
<meta http-equiv="refresh" content="3">
<head>
<title>Cat Feeder Switch</title>
</head>
<body>
<center>
The value of switch 3 is ?67
<br>
<img src=LED?67.gif>
</body>
</html>
Fig.5: after compression, the new website is downloaded
to the PNS via FTP. The “IP Address”, “LogonName” and
“Password” fields must all match those shown in the PNS
Setup dialog (see Fig. 3).
plete, power off and disconnect the
serial cable.
Downloading the web pages
Listing 3: index.htm
<html>
<head>
<title>Cat Feeder </title>
</head>
<frameset cols="50%,50%" frameborder=1>
<frame name="left" src="catout.cgi" marginheight=2 marginwidth=2 frameborder=1>
<frame name="right" src="catin.cgi" marginheight=2 marginwidth=2 frameborder=1>
</frameset>
</html>
Listing 4: RC servo driver
main:
servo 4,75
loop:
if input2 = 0 then loop
servo 4,225
stop
'closed position
'loop waiting for input
'open position
'stop the program
that the IP address settings are correct,
as explained in part 1 of this series (see
SILICON CHIP, September 2006).
Any changes made must be downsiliconchip.com.au
loaded to the PNS before they will take
effect. Connect the serial cable, power
up, click on “Download” and follow
the on-screen instructions. Once com-
We now need to update the PNS
with the newly created web page.
First, create a new folder on your computer and make sure that it contains
the required files, which are: index.
htm, catin.cgi, catout.cgi, led0.gif and
led1.gif.
These can be downloaded in a
single zip file from the SILICON CHIP
website.
That done, connect the PNS to your
network and power up. Again in the
Programming Editor, select “Website
Image” from the PICAXE -> Wizards ->
PICAXE NetServer menu and navigate
to the new folder just created (Fig.4).
Now click on the “Compress” button to
generate the PNS memory (EEPROM)
image.
Next, click on the “Download via
FTP” button and the “FTP Transfer”
window appears (Fig.5). Change the
IP address to match your PNS and
then click the “Connect” button. If the
PNS is found, you can then click the
November 2006 91
Fig.6: as well as directly
driving external devices
such as transistors and
LEDs, the PNS I/O lines can
be used as signals to trigger
“smart” devices, such as a
PICAXE microcontroller.
Again using our cat feeder
as an example, a PICAXE08M drives an RC servo
to open or close the feeder
door when output 2 of the
PNS changes state.
“Transfer” button to transfer the actual
compressed image to the PNS.
Moment of truth
Now move back to your web browser
software and type in the PNS address (in the examples given, this is
192.168.1.10). If all is well, your new
web page should look like Fig.2!
Verify that by clicking on the buttons, you can switch output 2 on
and off, and by operating the switch,
92 Silicon Chip
the logic value toggles and the LED
graphic alternates between green and
red. Remember, though, that the page
is refreshed only every three seconds!
trigger to initiate servo operation.
Fig.6 shows a suitable circuit,
while a matching program for the
PICAXE-08M appears in Listing 4.
Alternative mechanism
Coming next month
An alternative method of opening the
feeder lid would be to use an RC-style
servo controlled by a PICAXE-08M
chip. In this case, the output from the
PNS would be connected to an input
of the PICAXE-08M and act as a
Congratulations, you have now designed and developed your first PNS
project! Next time around, we will
build a more complex project that
shares data in real-time with a PICAXE
SC
microcontroller!
siliconchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
DENON’S new DVD-2930 1080p
Universal Player:
“As good as it gets!”
Denon’s latest generation high
definition 1080p universal player,
the DVD-2930 features 10-bit video
processing together with 216MHz,
12-bit D-to-A conversion, producing
the highest quality, high definition
1080p images.
As a Universal player it supports
all current surround sound and music
digital formats including DVD Audio
and Video, SACD, MP3, WMA, DIVX,
and of course will play regular CDs
and their variants.
A clear reminder that not all DVD
players are created equal, the DVD2930 employs the much anticipated,
cutting-edge Reon-VX chip from Silicon Optix that is designed to deliver
optimum picture quality for content
shown by major TV networks and
‘Hollywood’ DVDs. Key features of
the new chip include no-compromise
HQV True 1080i-1080p de-interlacing,
which uses the full four-field processing window for HD video deinterlacing and cadence detection,
thus preserving the rich details in
HD imagery.
In addition, the REON processor
includes HQV (Hollywood Quality
Video) processing, and together with
Denon’s proprietary noise reduction
system and advanced scaling technology, the DVD-2930 can make regular
DVDs approach the quality of High
Definition DVD.
This latest Universal player also
features a state-of-the-art, high performance 10-bit video scaler that works
with HDMI digital video signals. The
scaler executes optimum conversion
to suit the output of independent
HDMI transmitters and can also output PC resolution VGA/XGA/WXGA
and SXGA. This is particularly useful
94 Silicon Chip
when it addresses PCs and PC-based
LCD monitors, as it automatically
formats to these display standards.
For the best in audio, the DVD-2930
employs Burr Brown 24-bit, 192kHz
audio D/A converters, while HDCD
decoding extracts the very best out of
both HDCD encoded discs and also
yields more true to life sound from
standard CDs.
The DVD-2930’s Discrete Audio/
Video and digital Bass Management
circuitry, together with Speaker Configuration Level and Delay Time Controls, allows you to tailor your sound
to a wide variety of set-ups including
full-size speakers to sub/set systems.
The DVD-2930 also boasts Denon
LINK 3rd edition, which provides
fully balanced output of DD/dts/DVDA/PCM/SACD for digital, one-cable
audio hook-up to compatible Denon
A/V components.
The DVD-2930 offers fast loading
disc recognition, automatic switching,
picture adjustment controls, an intuitive on-screen menu system, WMA
file navigation and a fully functional
remote control. Connections include
the latest HDMI, Component, S-Video,
Composite plus coaxial and optical
digital outputs and multi-channel
analog audio outputs.
The Denon DVD-2930 has a recommended retail price of $1,699 and
is covered by a nationwide two-year
warranty.
It is now available at selected Denon
dealers throughout Australia
Contact:
Audio Products Group (Australia)
67 O’Riordan St, Alexandria NSW 2015
Tel: (02) 9669 3477 Fax: (02) 9578 0140
Website: www.audioproducts.com.au
RS Components
nominated for
Elektra 06 Awards
RS Components have been shortlisted for the Elektra 06 European
Electronics Industry Awards. An independent panel of judges includes
specialists from Afdec, Envirowise,
ISLI, NMI, Qinetiq, Roke Manor
Research and the University of
Manchester.
The company has been nominated for:
• Distributor of the Year
• Online Business Award
• Environmental Award
RS Components offers over 50,000
electronic, electrical and industrial
products ex-stock, with an additional 130,000 on their web site at
www.rsaustralia.com
Established in Australia in 1976
under the name of ‘Radiospares’ and
then later renamed RS Components
in 1990 the company has enjoyed
strong growth through the years
and now has over 40,000 customers
across the country.
Part of a global business, RS has
operating companies in 25 countries around the world including
UK, France, Italy, Germany, Spain,
China, Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong,
USA and New Zealand.
Ordering is via phone, fax or web
and guaranteed next day delivery is
free for orders over $100 (exc. GST)
to anywhere in Australia. The company also offers free technical help
from our team of technical specialists and over 40,000 datasheets can
be accessed online.
Same day delivery is available
from the local RS Trade Counter
network, which are based in Perth,
Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne and
provide 17,500 of the most popular
products from the range.
Contact:
RS Components
25 Pavesi St, Smithfield NSW 2164
Orderline Phone: 1300 656 636
Orderline Fax: 1300 656 696
Website: www.rsaustralia.com
siliconchip.com.au
4-channel Standalone Digital Video Recorder
Digital Video Recorders
(DVRs) are starting to get a little passe now, having well and
truly taken over from the old
faithful VCR in hifi shop sales.
But if you’re into a lot of
simultaneous recording, this
4-channel model from Avcomm
is worth another look.
As well as operating in standalone mode, it can plug into a standard
USB port on your computer, to allow
a vast range of image manipulation.
In addition, it will also output to a
standard monitor via A-V connections so you can also view in “real
time”, with a live display resolution
of 720 x 576.
You can convert the images to bitmap (BMP) or AVI format for further
manipulation in PC software.
The immediate (and probably
intended) role is for security applications, with four simultaneous cameras
being accessed – both for recording
and for viewing. It comes complete
with an 80GB hard disk drive but
larger drives can easily be fitted by
the end user, if required. The unit
will automatically format a new hard
disk if it determines that one has been
changed.
It can be set to record in continuous or manual modes, or scheduled
to record at certain times, or start
recording on (external) alarm or with
motion.
Video input is a standard 1V, 75W so
it will accept a variety of input sources
(even TV tuners!).
Driver software, USB cable and AC/
DC adaptor are all supplied. Recommended retail price is $599.00
Contact:
Av-Comm
PO Box 225, Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Website: www.avcomm.com.au
Rain Alert gauge monitors tank levels
A new, easy and safer way to monitor the level of your rainwater tank
from a convenient location inside the
house, has been introduced by water
solutions company New Water. New
Water is an Australian company which
sells innovative, customised water
solutions in the form of grey water
recycling and rainwater harvesting
tanks and systems.
The Rain Alert gauge suits all vented
tanks up to three metres high, providing an easy-to-install wireless method
for monitoring tank levels. The transmitter sits on top of the tank, using
ultrasonics to gauge the level of fluid
in the tank. The receiver, which can
be located up to 200m from the tank,
is plugged into a power point and a
small LCD panel continuously shows
how much water is in the tank.
If the tank level falls below a predetermined level, the LCD panel will
flash a ‘Tank Fill’ picture and when
it is almost empty a red warning
light will flash to indicate the low
tank level.
Rain Alert is a safe option to monitoring tank levels as it doesn’t require
climbing on top of the tank and reaching in to make measurements.
The lithium battery in the transmitter has a life of ten years and the
entire device comes with a one year
warranty.
The cost of a standard unit to fit
a tank is $160 and is available direct
from New Water.
Contact:
New Water
PO Box 1006, Ringwood, Vic 3134
Tel: (03) 8873 3600 Fax: (03) 9873 2844
Website: www.newwater.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Glyn Ltd distributes
Jennic Zigbee
Glyn Ltd has been appointed Australia and New Zealand distributor
of leading UK-based ZigBee wireless
solutions provider, Jennic.
The Jennic JN5121 is the first in a
series of low-power, low-cost IEEE
802.15.4 compliant wireless microcontrollers designed and manufactured by Jennic. Combining an on-chip
32-bit RISC core, a fully compliant
2.4GHz IEEE802.15.4 transceiver,
64kB of ROM and 96kB of RAM.
The JN5121 provides a versatile
low-cost solution for wireless sensor
networking applications. The ROM
enables integration of point-to-point
and mesh network stack protocols, and
the RAM allows support of router and
controller functions without the need
for additional external memory.
It uses hardware MAC and highly
secure AES encryption accelerators
for low power and minimum processor overhead. Integrated sleep oscillator and power saving facilities are
provided, giving low system power
consumption. The device also incorporates a wide range of digital and
analog peripherals for the user to
connect to their application.
Jennic also designs and manufactures ZigBee/IEEE 802.15.4 wireless
modules.
Contact:
Glyn Ltd Australia
PO Box 7838, Baulkham Hills Business
Centre, Baulkham Hills NSW 2153.
Tel: (02) 8850 0320 Fax: (02) 8850 0370
Website: www.glyn.com.au
TOROIDAL
POWER
TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
November 2006 95
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Radio Corporation’s
WS108 Transceiver
The “portable” radio equipment used
by the military at the start of World War
2 was bulky, heavy and inefficient by
today’s standards. Here we take a look at
Radio Corporation’s WS108 transceiver,
as used by the Australian army.
B
EFORE AND DURING World War
II, Radio Corporation made many
radio transceivers for use by the military. In fact, we’ve already looked at
the advanced WS122 in Vintage Radio
for October 2002.
The WS122 was intended for fixed,
portable and – at a pinch – vehicle
mobile use. By contrast, the WS108
in all its various marks was intended
as a backpack transceiver (basically,
a predecessor to “walkie talkies”), although it was also used for low-power
fixed operation.
This set is claimed to be the first
backpack set designed and built in
Australia. A Morse code only variant, designated the 208, was used by
Australian commandos and coast
watchers in the Pacific area during
World War II.
Bulky equipment
The WS108 transceiver – the first backpack
set designed and built in Australia.
96 Silicon Chip
Most of the radio equipment used
at the start of WWII was bulky, heavy
and inefficient, with high current
consumption. Designing equipment
for mains operation is relatively easy,
as it’s not necessary to be concerned
about the total electrical power requirements. However, it’s a different
story when it comes to designing
equipment for battery operation.
It soon became obvious that there
was an urgent need for a fully-portable
voice transceiver for use by troops
within an infantry battalion or similar
unit. This had to be small enough for
a soldier to carry on his back and he
had to be able to operate the set on
the move. This was probably not a
favoured task, as the high frequency
(HF) whip/rod type antenna connected
to such sets would be sticking up above
the horizon and acting as a beacon for
the enemy’s sharp shooters!
The British military had the No.18
set and this became the blueprint for
the “Australianised” backpack set.
Radio Corporation (Astor) designed
and built this version, the 108. The
108 Mk.1 (1941) only tuned the range
siliconchip.com.au
from 8.5-8.9MHz, while the improved
108 Mk.2 (1941) tuned from 6-9MHz.
The final production model, the Mk.3
(1943/4) tuned from 2.5-3.5MHz and
had provision for Morse code transmission as well.
Another variant was the 208 (1941/2)
which was purely a Morse code (CW)
transceiver. There was also a Mk.4
version developed but the war ended
before it was put into full-scale production. Army cadets got to play with
the few that were made, according to
Rod Allen, VK4CJ.
The 108s were subsequently superseded by the vastly superior 128
transceiver, which was approved for
production in 1945. In addition, towards the end of the war, the American
SCR536/BC611 walkie-talkie came
into use and this was so superior to
the 108 that the Mk.4 would have been
obsolete even before it was built.
The 108 Mk.2
The 108 Mk.2 has a conventional
superhet receiver with an RF stage,
converter, two IF amplifiers, a detector/AGC stage and two audio stages
– see Fig.1. A well-designed set with
that number of battery valves is sure to
be a good performer. It was designed
to operate with a very small whip
antenna 1-2 metres long and this is
connected to the top of the antenna
coil via blocking capacitor C1A. The
tuned circuit for the coupling between
the RF amplifier and the converter is in
the plate circuit of the radio frequency
(RF) amplifier (V1A) rather than in the
grid, as is the more usual practice.
The oscillator section of V2A (1A7
GT) is similar to other pentagrid mixers. The intermediate frequency (IF)
is at 1600kHz and is selected from
the various mixing products at V2A’s
plate.
By contrast, the IF of the Mk.1 was
455kHz and breakthrough on the image frequency (double spotting), which
is only 910kHz away from the desired
signal, would have been a real problem. In addition, the selectivity of the
antenna circuit and the broad-banded
RF tuned circuit would have been
inadequate to reject this unwanted
frequency.
By using an IF of 1600kHz for the
Mk.2, break-through of unwanted
stations 3200kHz away would be rare
due to the selectivity of the RF and
antenna stages, which would strongly
reject signals at the image frequency.
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the top of the chassis after restoration. Note the rewired
“netting” switch on the front panel.
Following the mixer, the signal is
passed through double-tuned IF transformer T1A, valve V1B and doubletuned IF transformer T1B to V1C, and
then via IF transformer T2A to the
diode detector in V3A (1D8GT).
The signal is detected in V3A
(1D8GT) and AGC voltage is fed back
to V1A and V1B. V2A and V1C do not
have AGC applied to them.
Following the detector, the audio
is fed via volume control (R8A) to the
grid of the 1D8GT’s triode section. The
resulting signal on the plate is then
applied to the grid of the pentode in
the 1D8GT, after which it is extracted
from the pentode’s plate circuit and
fed to the headphones via T3A.
The way that the 1D8GT has been
drawn in the circuit diagram is unusual to say the least (and confusing as
well). Reference to a valve data book
makes it easier to follow this part of
the circuit.
Transmitter circuit
The transmitter circuit is fairly simple. The carrier frequency is derived
using a variable frequency oscillator
(VFO) based on V4A (1Q5GT). This
VFO covers from 6-9MHz and this
frequency range is spanned by two
complete turns of the frequencycontrol knob. As a result, it’s not
easy to accurately set the transmitter
frequency with such a direct tuning
mechanism.
An alternative method of selecting
a frequency is to select one of four
preset frequencies using switch S3A.
However, in the handbook, it is suggested that these preset frequencies
should not be set in the field in the
absence of technical personnel (more
on this later).
The output from V4A is coupled to
the grid of V4B, which functions as an
RF (radio frequency) power amplifier.
It’s output is fed to the antenna via a
tuned circuit consisting of L8A, C11D
and C16A.
Because the antenna length is only
a fraction of the signal wavelength, it
is connected to the unearthed end of
tuning capacitor C16A. Capacitor C11D
passes the RF and blocks the 90V HT
from being applied to the antenna.
In order to put voice onto the carrier,
November 2006 97
winding of T3A and this modulates
the 90V supply to the PA (V4b). This
causes the amount of voltage applied
to the PA stage to vary, which means
that the transmitter’s output varies
as well.
Netting
It was usual for transceivers such
as this to transmit and receive on the
same frequency and this was achieved
using a facility called “netting”. This
involved providing a low-level signal
from the transmitter that was then
picked by the receiver. When the
transmitter and receiver frequencies
were the same, the receiver would go
“quiet”. Alternatively, if the “control”
station was transmitting, the local
transmitter signal would initially appear as a whistle in the receiver as the
VFO was adjusted.
In practice, the transmitter frequency control was adjusted until
the whistle disappeared – ie, at “zero
beat” or zero frequency difference. The
local unit and the “control” station
would then be on the same (nominal)
frequency. In fact all stations in the
group would “net” to the “control”
station so that they could all talk to
one another. The netting switch in
the 108 is S2A and this is located just
below the common earth line in the
circuit diagram.
In this set, when netting occurs,
the receiver is operated as normal,
the VFO is run at reduced voltage
and the PA is made inoperative. Only
a low-level signal is required, as the
transmitter is in the same case as the
receiver.
Overhauling the receiver
These two under-chassis views show the unit before restoration (top)
and after restoration (bottom). Most of the work here involved replacing
defective capacitors.
it is necessary to have a modulator
and this is provided by the 1D8GT
(V3a). V3a fulfils a dual role as it also
functions as the audio output stage
for the receiver. On receive, the lower
secondary winding of T3A is switched
through to the headphones. Converse98 Silicon Chip
ly, on transmit, the upper winding on
the secondary is switched in series
between the 90V supply rail from the
batteries and the plate and screen of
the power amplifier (PA) valve.
In operation, the modulator’s audio
output appears across the secondary
The first thing I noticed when it
came to the restoration was that the
netting switch was missing from the
top-centre of the control panel. This
didn’t augur well for restoring the set
to its original condition and I was concerned as to what other modifications
might have done to the set.
In fact, it’s sometimes necessary to
admit defeat if the modifications are
too extensive and I sometimes wonder
why people do such extensive modifications to sets. One of our local club
members has bought sets on eBay and
has been caught out this way.
Fortunately, in this case, there
didn’t appear to be any other drastic
modifications, so I decided to go ahead
with the restoration. It wasn’t hard
siliconchip.com.au
Removing the chassis
The chassis itself is quite easy to
remove from the case, it being necessary to remove just one knurled-head
screw on the front of the set. However,
it isn’t normally possible to operate
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the WS108 uses a conventional superhet receiver with an RF stage, converter, two IF amplifiers, a detector/AGC stage and two audio stages. By contrast,
the transmitter is fairly simple and uses a variable frequency oscillator (VFO) based on V4A (1Q5GT) to derive the carrier frequency. V3a functions as the
modulator (and as the audio output stage for the receiver section), while V4b functions as an RF power amplifier.
to find and fit a 4-pole 2-way switch
and matching knob. The only problem
here was that I didn’t have a springloaded switch like the original, so I
would have to manually switch back
to receive from “net”.
However, that was a minor problem compared with finding out what
the previous owner had done with
the eight wires that had gone to the
switch. I couldn’t see where they had
come from, as the wiring in the set is
rather dark and it’s hard to find your
way around.
Eventually, I was able to locate the
transmitter and receiver filaments so I
was able to initially wire the extreme
left switch contacts into circuit. Figuring out the remaining wiring to the
three switch sections was a much more
time-consuming task and it took me
two full days to complete this job.
About this time, I also discovered
that the 10mA meter in the plate circuit of the PA valve had gone open
circuit. I dismantled the meter but no
obvious breaks in the wiring could be
found. Fortunately, I had a meter from
another Radio Corporation transceiver
and it had the right sensitivity and the
correct mounting hardware. Unfortunately, its appearance and meter scale
are different to the original but it will
do the job until an exact replacement
comes along.
I was going to repaint the case but
changed my mind when I discovered that suitable matte-finish paint
would set me back $25. As a result,
I thoroughly cleaned the case with
household kerosene on a rag and
while it looks better that it did, gouge
marks and rust are still quite evident.
Of course, it’s always a moot point
as to whether an item being restored
should look exactly as it did when it
came out of the factory or simply restored to working order but left with
its original finish.
Unfortunately, I have only a few
of the bits and pieces that make up
the complete station. For example, I
don’t have the antenna or the control
cables and had to “make do” with a
microphone and set of headphones
from another military set.
November 2006 99
All accessories, including the headphones, microphone, a 3-position remote switch control and a small telescopic
antenna are stored in the lid of the case (the black and white photo at left is from the manual). Most of these items
are missing from the author’s set.
the set out of the case as the batteries
and the headphone and microphone
leads are automatically connected via
a Jones plug and socket arrangement
attached to the back of the case and
the rear of the chassis. As a result,
I obtained a 6-pin Jones socket and
wired it so that I could supply 1.4V
and 90V to the set and connect the
headphones and microphone.
As with all old sets, I checked the
AGC bypass and audio coupling capacitors for leakage. As usual, the AGC
bypasses were too leaky to leave in
circuit and these were replaced with
.047mF 50V ceramic disc capacitors.
The audio coupler (C5B) is a mica
capacitor, so it was left in circuit.
However, all the other paper capacitors
were excessively leaky and were replaced with 160V polyester capacitors.
The back bias capacitor C12A, a 25mF
40V electrolytic, was also replaced.
Unfortunately, this circuit isn’t the
easiest to find your way around, as
there are a few errors in it. Two were
picked up by the military and the
corrections published, while I found
another one that had been missed.
Receiver tests
The 108 was designed to work with
two low-impedance headphones so I
connected a 15-ohm loudspeaker to
the line that comes out to pin 1 on the
Jones plug. I then clipped the output
lead from my LSG11 signal generator over an insulated antenna lead I
had attached to the set, adjusted the
100 Silicon Chip
signal generator for full output and
tuned the receiver to find the signal.
A weak signal was heard, which led
me to believe that something must be
wrong with the receiver.
So what else had the previous owner
been up to? The IF alignment was the
obvious suspect, even though the adjustment slugs had been well-sealed
with beeswax. Initially, I found that
I could get only a weak response on
1600kHz (the IF frequency) so I started
adjusting the cores and was immediately greeted by increased sensitivity.
And once all the five slugs had been
adjusted, the performance was quite
good.
It’s difficult to know what the previous owner was doing when he aligned
the set. He was certainly liberal with
his use of beeswax!
Overhauling the transmitter
The transmitter’s RF output circuit is
designed to feed a non-resonant short
telescopic antenna, which presents
a high impedance to the PA’s tuned
plate circuit. However, the previous
owner had modified the circuit so that
a relatively low-impedance antenna
could be used, such as a quarter wave
end-fed antenna.
It’s also much easier to measure RF
power into low-impedance resistive
loads such as a 50-ohm “dummy”
antenna than trying to simulate a highimpedance reactive load, as presented
by a short telescopic antenna (a suitable “dummy” load can be made using
a 50-ohm non-inductive resistor and
this acts like an antenna with a resistive
feed impedance of 50 ohms).
The transmitter stage uses lots of
mica capacitors and none of these required replacement. In fact, the transmitter section was in better condition
than the receiver.
Next, I applied power to the set and
with the receiver turned on, adjusted
the transmitter frequency with the
“netting” on until the receiver went
quiet (this meant that the transmitter
was now tuned to the same frequency
as the receiver). I then checked the
unit out across its entire 6-9MHz
tuning range and found that the dial
calibrations for both the receiver and
transmitter stages were reasonably
accurate.
Now for some power measurements.
This was done by attaching the set to a
50-ohm RF power meter (a “dummy”
load with a meter attached to measure
power) and then turning the transmitter on. Initially, the power was around
40mW which wasn’t anything to write
home about.
I then experimented with the coupling and was able to get the transmitter output power up to 120mW.
This involved winding three turns of
insulated wire over the earthy end of
the tuned circuit, which proved more
effective than the previous owner’s
modification.
It was now simply a matter of
checking that the unit was working
correctly. To do this, I tuned in my
siliconchip.com.au
amateur radio receiver and found that
this had no trouble picking up the
signal from the transmitter into the
dummy load. I then modulated it with
tone using a small audio generator and
the transmitted audio sounded quite
acceptable.
Finally, I tried using a hand-held
carbon microphone and once again
the transmitted audio was quite satisfactory.
In operation, the transmitter and the
receiver are remarkably stable once set
to a frequency, with little drift in the
tuning. However, as mentioned previously, exact “netting” to frequency
isn’t an easy task with these sets.
One problem alluded to earlier in
the article is the problem of adjusting
the four preset transmitter channels.
The frequency adjustments are set
using a screwdriver to vary four airspaced trimming capacitors and just
half a turn (180)° changes the preset
frequency from 6MHz to 9MHz.
As a result, the adjustment is very
critical and it’s just as well that the
selectivity of the receivers in these
sets isn’t as narrow as it would be with
455kHz IF stages, otherwise it would
be almost impossible to get them accurately tuned.
Photo Gallery: AWA Model 517M (1948)
MANUFACTURED BY AWA in 1948, the 517M was a very popular 4-valve
mantel receiver housed in a bakelite cabinet. It featured concentric volume
control and tuning knobs in the middle of a circular dial and was produced
in several colours. The green cabinet shown here is now hard to find.
The valve line-up was as follows: 6A8-G frequency changer; 6G8-G reflexed
IF amplifier/1st audio amplifier/detector/AVC rectifier; 6V6-GT audio output;
and 5Y3-GT rectifier. Photo: Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
Summary
The 108 is a cumbersome “little”
beast, which is not all that easy to use
on the move. It remains on frequency
remarkably well when operated on the
bench but just how well it did when
being bumped along on a private’s back
is another matter.
It’s output power is also quite low
at around 120mW, which gives it a
range of about 3km as a pack set. By
way of comparison, a modern 27MHz
CB radio has an output power of 4W
on AM – more than 33 times that of
the 108.
The Mk.1 was probably not much
of a success but the Mk.2 would have
been reasonably good in the African
desert. The Mk.3 would have been
even more versatile, as it used lower
frequencies which would have been
better in the jungles of South East
Asia. It was also capable of being used
on Morse code and could be operated
with a variety of antennas.
Finally, although the 108 may have
been satisfactory when was first produced, it was obsolete even before the
end of WWII. Radio Corporation also
produced the 122 which was a much
more advanced design for the time.
The 108 wasn’t the most remarkable
transceiver of its time but it’s still an
interesting item to have in a military
SC
radio collection.
WIN ME!
Commence a new subscription (or renew an existing
one) between now and Christmas and you’ll go in the
draw to win a pair of these superb M6 bass-reflex kit
speakers, valued at $599 – as featured in this issue –
courtesy of theloudspeakerkit.com
See page 61 for full details
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SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 101
Silicon Chip Back Issues
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994:90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC 200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Engine
Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Dual
Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital Water
Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: A Coolant Level Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW
Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs;
PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting
Nicad Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Batteries; MiniVox
Voice Operated Relay; AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity
Tuner For FM Mics, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric Clock; 80-M DSB Amateur Transmitter; 2-Cell Nicad Discharger.
December 1994: Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control
System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dual Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects Unit
For Musicians; 6-Channel LCD Thermometer; Wide Range Electrostatic
Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier Decoder For
FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.3.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Balanced Mic Preamp & Line
Filter; 50W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic
Loudspeakers, Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote
Control; Introduction To Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Build A Gain Controlled
Microphone Preamp; How To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
ORDER FORM
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; Jacob’s Ladder Display.
October 1995: 3-Way Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Nicad Fast Charger.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Knock Sensing
In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
For Stepper Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2;
Index To Vol.10.
January 1998: 4-Channel 12VDC or 12VAC Lightshow, Pt.1; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
February 1998: Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.2; 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
May 1998: 3-LED Logic Probe; Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command
Control System, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
May 1996: High Voltage Insulation Tester; Knightrider LED Chaser;
Simple Intercom Uses Optical Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15W/Ch Class-A Audio
Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Auto
matic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
June 1996: Stereo Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser;
Low Ohms Tester For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4; I/O Card With Data Logging; Beat Triggered Strobe; 15W/Ch Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
July 1996: VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender
For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser;.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter
Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; HF Amateur Radio Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; 600W
DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.2; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent
Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers; 600W DC-DC
Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: Active Filter For CW Reception; Fast Clock
For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
October 1998: AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter;
Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build
A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine, Pt.2;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Gliders.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; A Look At The BASIC
Stamp; Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser.
March 1999: Build A Digital Anemometer; DIY PIC Programmer; Build
An Audio Compressor; Low-Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2.
January 1997: Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build
A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Thermometer (Monitors Eight Temperatures).
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Carbon Monoxide Alarm.
March 1997: 175W PA Amplifier; Signalling & Lighting For Model
Railways; Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For Stepper Motors.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter;
Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.3.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech
Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
October 1997: 5-Digit Tachometer; Central Locking For Your Car; PCControlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.3.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives +12V,
+9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Vol.12.
December 1997: Build A Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With
Gripper; Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Parallel Port Interface Card; Telephone Off-Hook Indicator.
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Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139,
Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
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siliconchip.com.au
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; Safety Switch Checker; Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; 100W Amplifier Module,
Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display; Glowplug Driver.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; LED Dice (With PIC Microcontroller); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge; Parallel Port VHF FM Receiver;
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor.
July 2000: Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp Driver;
Musicians’ Lead Tester; Switchmode Power Supply, Pt.2.
August 2000: Theremin; Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”);
Proximity Switch; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
September 2000: Swimming Pool Alarm; 8-Channel PC Relay Board;
Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into
Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer; Breath Tester; Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera; Subwoofer For Cars; Fuel Mixture Display, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; White
LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital Reverb); Driving
An LCD From The Parallel Port; Index To Vol.13.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor –
Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator; 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
February 2001: An Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train
Controller; A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre
Groundplane Antenna; LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
May 2001: 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED Torches To
Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using Linux To
Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows With TweakUI.
June 2001: Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen In &
Switch Devices On & Off; Low-Cost Automatic Camera Switcher; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1.
December 2002: Receiving TV From Satellites; Pt.1; The Micromitter
Stereo FM Transmitter; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.2;
SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries; Pt.2; Simple VHF FM/AM Radio;
Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.2.
January 2003: Receiving TV From Satellites, Pt 2; SC480 50W RMS
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Gear Indicator For Cars; Active 3-Way Crossover
For Speakers; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.3.
February 2003: PortaPal PA System, Pt.1; SC480 50W RMS Amplifier
Module, Pt.2; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.3; Using Linux
To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.4; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.1.
March 2003: LED Lighting For Your Car; Peltier-Effect Tinnie Cooler;
PortaPal PA System, Pt.2; 12V SLA Battery Float Charger; Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.2 (Shop Door Minder).
April 2003: Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems; Telephone
Dialler For Burglar Alarms; Three PIC Programmer Kits; PICAXE, Pt.3
(Heartbeat Simulator); Electric Shutter Release For Cameras.
May 2003: Widgybox Guitar Distortion Effects Unit; 10MHz Direct
Digital Synthesis Generator; Big Blaster Subwoofer; Printer Port
Simulator; PICAXE, Pt.4 (Motor Controller).
June 2003: PICAXE, Pt.5; PICAXE-Controlled Telephone Intercom;
PICAXE-08 Port Expansion; Sunset Switch For Security & Garden
Lighting; Digital Reaction Timer; Adjustable DC-DC Converter For Cars;
Long-Range 4-Channel UHF Remote Control.
July 2003: Smart Card Reader & Programmer; Power-Up Auto Mains
Switch; A “Smart” Slave Flash Trigger; Programmable Continuity Tester;
PICAXE Pt.6 – Data Communications; Updating The PIC Programmer
& Checkerboard; RFID Tags – How They Work.
August 2003: PC Infrared Remote Receiver (Play DVDs & MP3s On
Your PC Via Remote Control); Digital Instrument Display For Cars,
Pt.1; Home-Brew Weatherproof 2.4GHz WiFi Antennas; PICAXE Pt.7.
September 2003: Robot Wars; Krypton Bike Light; PIC Programmer;
Current Clamp Meter Adapter For DMMs; PICAXE Pt.8 – A Data Logger;
Digital Instrument Display For Cars, Pt.2.
October 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.1; JV80 Loudspeaker System; A
Dirt Cheap, High-Current Power Supply; Low-Cost 50MHz Frequency
Meter; Long-Range 16-Channel Remote Control System.
November 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.2; 12AX7 Valve Audio Preamplifier; Our Best Ever LED Torch; Smart Radio Modem For Microcontrollers; PICAXE Pt.9; Programmable PIC-Powered Timer.
December 2003: How To Receive Weather Satellite Images; SelfDiagnostics Plug For Cars; PC Board Design, Pt.3; VHF Receiver For
Weather Satellites; Linear Supply For Luxeon 1W Star LEDs; 5V Meter
Calibration Standard; PIC-Based Car Battery Monitor; PICAXE Pt.10.
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Telephone
Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery Charger,
Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
January 2004: Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.1; HighEfficiency Power Supply For 1W Star LEDs; Antenna & RF Preamp
For Weather Satellites; Lapel Microphone Adaptor For PA Systems;
PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.1; 2.4GHZ Audio/Video Link.
August 2001: DI Box For Musicians; 200W Mosfet Amplifier Module;
Headlight Reminder; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC
To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
February 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.1; Supply Rail Monitor For PCs;
Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.2; Shorted Turns Tester For
Line Output Transformers; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.2.
September 2001: Making MP3s; Build An MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PCControlled Mains Switch; Personal Noise Source For Tinnitus; Directional Microphone; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
March 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.2; Build The QuickBrake For Increased
Driving Safety; 3V-9V (or more) DC-DC Converter; ESR Meter Mk.2,
Pt.1; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.3.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Neon
Tube Modulator For Cars; Audio/Video Distribution Amplifier; Build A
Short Message Recorder Player; Useful Tips For Your PC.
April 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.3; Loudspeaker Level Meter For Home
Theatre Systems; Dog Silencer; Mixture Display For Cars; ESR Meter
Mk.2, Pt.2; PC/PICAXE Interface For UHF Remote Control.
December 2001: IR Transceiver For PCs; 100W/Ch Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.2; Pardy Lights Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
May 2004: Amplifier Testing Without High-Tech Gear; Component Video
To RGB Converter; Starpower Switching Supply For Luxeon Star LEDs;
Wireless Parallel Port; Poor Man’s Metal Locator.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.1;
A Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W /Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; FAQs On The MP3 Jukebox.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light
Dimmer, Pt.2; Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
March 2002: Mighty Midget Audio Amplifier Module; 6-Channel
IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.1; RIAA Pre-Amplifier For Magnetic
Cartridges; 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power Battery Charger.
April 2002:Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.1; Water Level
Indicator; Multiple-Output Bench Power Supply; Versatile Multi-Mode
Timer; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.2.
May 2002: 32-LED Knightrider; The Battery Guardian (Cuts Power When
the Battery Voltage Drops); Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Automatic
Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2; Stepper Motor Controller.
August 2002: Digital Instrumentation Software For PCs; Digital Storage
Logic Probe; Digital Therm./Thermostat; Sound Card Interface For PC
Test Instruments; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs.
September 2002: 12V Fluorescent Lamp Inverter; 8-Channel Infrared
Remote Control; 50-Watt DC Electronic Load; Spyware – An Update.
October 2002: Speed Controller For Universal Motors; PC Parallel Port
Wizard; Cable Tracer; AVR ISP Serial Programmer; 3D TV.
November 2002: SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries, Pt.1;
Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.1; 4-Digit Crystal-Controlled
Timing Module; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.1.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2004: Dr Video Mk.2 Video Stabiliser; Build An RFID Security
Module; Fridge-Door Alarm; Courtesy Light Delay For Cars; Automating PC Power-Up; Upgraded Software For The EPROM Programmer.
July 2004: Silencing A Noisy PC; Versatile Battery Protector; Appliance
Energy Meter, Pt.1; A Poor Man’s Q Meter; Regulated High-Voltage
Supply For Valve Amplifiers; Remote Control For A Model Train Layout.
August 2004: Video Formats: Why Bother?; VAF’s New DC-X Generation
IV Loudspeakers; Video Enhancer & Y/C Separator; Balanced Microphone Preamp; Appliance Energy Meter, Pt.2; 3-State Logic Probe.
September 2004: Voice Over IP (VoIP) For Beginners; WiFry – Cooking
Up 2.4GHz Antennas; Bed Wetting Alert; Build a Programmable Robot;
Another CFL Inverter.
October 2004: The Humble “Trannie” Turns 50; SMS Controller, Pt.1;
RGB To Component Video Converter; USB Power Injector; Remote
Controller For Garage Doors & Gates.
November 2004: 42V Car Electrical Systems; USB-Controlled Power
Switch (Errata Dec. 2004); Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt.1;
Driveway Sentry; SMS Controller, Pt.2; PICAXE IR Remote Control.
December 2004: Build A Windmill Generator, Pt.1; 20W Amplifier
Module; Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt.2; Solar-Powered
Wireless Weather Station; Bidirectional Motor Speed Controller.
January 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.2; Build A V8 Doorbell; IR Remote
Control Checker; 4-Minute Shower Timer; The Prawnlite; Sinom Says
Game; VAF DC-7 Generation 4 Kit Speakers.
February 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.3; USB-Controlled Electro-
cardiograph; TwinTen Stereo Amplifier; Inductance & Q-Factor Meter,
Pt.1; A Yagi Antenna For UHF CB; $2 Battery Charger.
March 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.4; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.1; Swimming Pool Lap Counter; Inductance & Q-Factor Meter, Pt.2; Shielded
Loop Antenna For AM; Cheap UV EPROM Eraser; Sending Picaxe Data
Over 477MHz UHF CB; $10 Lathe & Drill Press Tachometer.
April 2005: Install Your Own In-Car Video (Reversing Monitor); Build
A MIDI Theremin, Pt.1; Bass Extender For Hifi Systems; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.2; SMS Controller Add-Ons; A $5 Variable Power Supply.
May 2005: Getting Into Wi-Fi, Pt.1; Build A 45-Second Voice Recorder;
Wireless Microphone/Audio Link; MIDI Theremin, Pt.2; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.3; Automatic Stopwatch Timer.
June 2005: Wi-Fi, Pt.2; The Mesmeriser LED Clock; Coolmaster Fridge/
Freezer Temperature Controller; Alternative Power Regular; PICAXE
Colour Recognition System; AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.1.
July 2005: Getting Into Wi-Fi, Pt.3; Remote-Controlled Automatic Lamp
Dimmer; Lead-Acid Battery Zapper; Serial Stepper Motor Controller;
AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.2; Salvaging & Using Thermostats;
Unwired Modems & External Antennas; PICAXE in Schools, Pt.3.
August 2005: Mudlark A205 Valve Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Programmable Flexitimer; Carbon Monoxide Alert; Serial LCD Driver; Enhanced
Sports Scoreboard; Salvaging Washing Maching Pressure Switches.
September 2005: Build Your Own Seismograph; Bilge Sniffer For Boats;
VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor; Mudlark A205 Valve Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.2; PICAXE in Schools, Pt.4.
October 2005: A Look At Google Earth; Dead Simple USB Breakout
Box; Studio Series Stereo Preamplifier, Pt.1; Video Reading Aid For
Vision Impaired People; Simple Alcohol Level Meter; Ceiling Fan Timer.
November 2005: Good Quality Car Sound On The Cheap; Pt.1; Microbric – Robotics For Everyone; PICAXE In Schools, Pt.5; Studio Series
Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Build A MIDI Drum Kit, Pt.1; Serial I/O
Controller & Analog Sampler; Delta XL02 Tower Loudspeaker System.
December 2005: Good Quality Car Sound On The Cheap; Pt.2; Building
The Ultimate Jukebox, Pt.1; Universal High-Energy Ignition System,
Pt.1; Remote LED Annunciator For Queue Control; Build A MIDI Drum
Kit, Pt.2; 433MHz Wireless Data Communication.
January 2006: Holden’s EFIJY Show Car; Pocket TENS Unit For Pain
Relief; “Little Jim” AM Radio Transmitter; Universal High-Energy
Ignition System, Pt.2; Building The Ultimate Jukebox, Pt.2; Build A
MIDI Drum Kit, Pt.3; Picaxe-Based 433MHz Wireless Thermometer;
A Human-Powered LED Torch For Next To Nothing.
February 2006: Electric-Powered Model Aircraft, Pt.1; Do-It-Yourself
Electronic Servicing; PC-Controlled Burglar Alarm System, Pt.1; Build
A Charger For iPods & MP3 Players; Picaxe-Powered Thermostat
& Temperature Display; Build A MIDI Drum Kit, Pt.4; Building The
Ultimate Jukebox, Pt.3.
March 2006: The Electronic Camera, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Burglar Alarm
System, Pt.2; Low-Cost Intercooler Water Spray Controller; AVR ISP
SocketBoard; Phone/Fax Missed Call Alert; Build A Low-Cost Large
Display Anemometer.
April 2006: The Electronic Camera, Pt.2; Studio Series Remote Control
Module (For A Stereo Preamplifier); 4-Channel Audio/Video Selector;
Universal High-Energy LED Lighting System, Pt.1; Picaxe Goes Wireless, Pt.1 (Using the 2.4GHz XBee Modules).
May 2006: Lead-Acid Battery Zapper & Condition Checker; Universal
High-Energy LED Lighting System, Pt.2; Passive Direct Injection (DI)
Box For Musicians; Remote Mains Relay Box; Vehicle Voltage Monitor;
Picaxe Goes Wireless, Pt.2; Boost Your XBee’s Range Using Simple
Antennas; Improving The Sound Of Salvaged Loudspeaker Systems.
June 2006: Television – The Elusive Goal, Pt.1; Electric-Powered
Model Aircraft, Pt.2; Pocket A/V Test Pattern Generator; Two-Way
SPDIF-to-Toslink Digital Audio Converter; Build A 2.4GHz Wireless
A/V Link; Starship “Enterprise” Door Sounder; A High-Current Battery
Charger For Almost Nothing.
July 2006: Television – The Elusive Goal, Pt.2; Mini Theremin Mk.2,
Pt.1; Programmable Analog On-Off Controller; Studio Series Stereo
Preamplifier; PC-Controlled Mains Switch, Mk.2; Stop Those Zaps
From Double-Insulated Equipment.
August 2006: Video Projector Survey; Television – The Elusive Goal,
Pt.3; Novel Picaxe-Based LED Chaser Clock; Build A Magnetic Cartridge
Preamplifier; An Ultrasonic Eavesdropper; Multi-Throttle Control For
PC Flight Simulators; Mini Theremin Mk.2, Pt.2.
September 2006: Thomas Alva Edison – Genius, Pt.1; Transferring
Your LPs To CDs & MP3s; Turn an Old Xbox Into A $200 Multimedia
Player; Picaxe Net Server, Pt.1; Build The Galactic Voice; Aquarium
Temperature Alarm; S-Video To composite Video Converter.
October 2006: Thomas Alva Edison – Genius, Pt.2; Review – The
CarChip E/X (Logs All Sorts Of Data); LED Tachometer With Dual
Displays, Pt.1; UHF Prescaler For Frequency Counters; Infrared Remote
Control Extender; Picaxe Net Server, Pt.2; Easy-To-Build 12V Digital
Timer Module; Build A Super Bicycle Light Alternator.
PLEASE NOTE: issues not listed have sold out. All other issues are in
stock. We can supply photostat copies of articles from sold-out issues
for $A9.50 each within Australia or $A13.00 each overseas (prices
include p&p). When supplying photostat articles or back copies, we
automatically supply any relevant notes & errata at no extra charge.
A complete index to all articles published to date can be downloaded
free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 103
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Questions on the
Playmaster Pro series 3
As a complete novice, I hope you
can help before I start building the
Playmaster Pro Series 3 (“Electronics
Australia”, February & March 1994).
My reading recommends snubbing
capacitors for the bridge rectifier. Is
this a good thing and needed? Where
do I find appropriate values and what
about heatsinking for this unit? What
about a bypass capacitor for the AC
input to remove RF? Would high frequency stability be improved with the
addition of a small value choke on the
speaker output?
Now for the stupid question, as I
cannot find the answer in any of the
books I have read: how can it be possible to force 250W of amplifier output
through four 5W source resistors?
How can something that is rated at
5W handle the output from a power
transistor that can put out 10 times
that? What stops them from melting
or burning out?
Lastly, there is now a 500VA toroidal
available from Jaycar. Would there
be any improvement in stability and
transient handling ability by upgrading the power supply side using the
larger transformer (with upgraded
reservoir capacitors and 5A fuses)? (T.
M., via email).
• There should be no need for snubbing capacitors across rectifier diodes
in audio power amplifiers. We have not
seen them used. Nor should there be
any need for a bypass capacitor across
the AC input.
The amplifier does have a Zobel RC
Possible Lightning Damage To SMS Controller
I purchased the SMS Controller kit (October & November 2005
issues) about 18 months ago and
have had no problems at all with
it until now.
The unit is installed on a yacht
and is used to indicate an alarm
trigger but is also used to turn a 12V
fridge on and off via relay. Recently,
I didn’t get an SMS response back
to “OK” that the fridge was on and
thought it to be a bit odd.
I investigated this to find the
power LED was on but found that
none of the other LEDs were working and the large resistor next to the
fuse had burned out. Will it be a
matter of replacing this component?
I just need to know what could have
caused this and whether the rest of
the circuit is damaged.
The yacht’s power supply is 12V
but through regulated solar charging
and boost charging, battery levels
could reach 14.5V. Could this have
done it? (A. L., via email).
• The burnt resistor may be the
104 Silicon Chip
result of an indirect lightning strike.
In a scenario like this, zener diodes
ZD1 and/or ZD2 would typically
fail short-circuit and blow the fuse.
However, as the power LED is on,
we must assume that there isn’t a
short circuit across the power rail
and the fuse must be intact. The
resistor (although burnt) must also
be intact, although it will probably
measure high.
Start off by replacing the burnt
resistor, then remove all of the ICs
from their sockets. Disconnect the
phone and power up. Check the
output of REG1. It must measure
5V as detailed in the instructions.
If not, check for overheating in all
other on-board components. The
regulator itself may also be faulty.
If the 5V supply measures OK,
power off and plug the ICs back
in. Power up again and check for
normal operation. If the unit is still
dead, the chances are that the highvoltage spike has damaged one or
more of the ICs.
network at the output so there should
be no need for an extra choke. Nor is
there much point in upgrading the
power supply. The bridge rectifiers in
the power supply are mounted on the
chassis and this should be adequate
as a heatsink. In any case, we are not
able to make more detailed comments
about this design.
As far as the emitter resistors are
concerned, they are of very low resistance and therefore dissipate very little
power themselves when the amplifier
is delivering full output. To be specific, when the amplifier is delivering
185W into 8 ohms, the current through
the FET source resistors will be 4.8A.
Therefore the power dissipated in
the four 0.22W resistors will be only
about 2.5W or 635 milliwatts in each
resistor.
As a final comment, the Pro Series
3 is a difficult amplifier for the novice
to build and the FET output stages can
be prone to oscillation problems at
frequencies around 100MHz or higher.
We would recommend you have a look
instead at the Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier described in the November & December 2001 and January 2002 issues
and available as a kit from Altronics.
It also involves a fair amount of work
to assemble but has proved to be more
trouble-free than the Pro Series 3.
Soft-start lamp
circuit wanted
Have you published a circuit for
a zero crossing, soft-start switching
device for lamps that can blow at
switch-on? (B. C., via email).
• There are several approaches to this
problem. The first was the ideal solution: a Lamp Saver circuit published
in the June 1986 issue of “Electronics
Australia”. However, it used a 2N4992
SBS device which is very difficult to
obtain now.
We also published a soft start circuit
for lamps in the Circuit Notebook section of the September 1991 issue but
no PC board was published.
siliconchip.com.au
Modifications To The Big Digit Clock
I am interested in purchasing the
PIC Programmer kit featured in the
March 2001 issue of SILICON CHIP.
I would like to know if this unit is
capable of programming other PICs.
Is the PIC 16F628 software and electrically compatible to the 16F84? I
want to use 16F628 in place of the
16F84 in the Big Digit Clock project
featured in the same magazine.
A further modification I would
like to try with the clock is the use
of larger digits of around 100mm
to 120mm. Could the use of higher
current rated transistors in place
of BC328s Q1-Q8 with the same
biasing be OK or would further
modifications be necessary? (G. W.,
via email).
• The 16F628A is pin-compatible
with the 16F84A. However, due
to increased functions within the
16F628A, assembly language pro-
Finally, the Touch Lamp Dimmer
published in the July 2005 issue does
include a soft start feature.
No zero-crossing power control circuit involving Triacs can be used for
lamp control because the technique of
switching blocks of 50Hz gives rise to
severe flicker.
Wrong current from
electronic load
I have assembled the Versatile Electronic Load from Circuit Notebook of
the March 2006 edition. With a 15.4V
power supply connected to this unit,
I can only produce a load current of
1.35A. With 15.4V at the MOSFET
drain and 7.71V at the gate, I have
7.41V at the MOSFET source.
The MOSFET Safe Operating Area
diagram indicates that at 15V applied,
I should theoretically be able to draw
approximately 4.25A. Can you help?
(P. A., via email).
• If you are only achieving a total load
current of 1.35A when there is 7.41V
at the MOSFET source, that suggests
that the resistance to ground in the “3”
position of switch S1 is about 5.48W
(7.41/1.35), rather than the 1W which
should be produced with the network
of resistors shown in the Electronic
Load circuit. If the resistance to ground
siliconchip.com.au
grams from the 16F84A will probably need modifications before they
will run on the newer device.
We suggest that you stick with
the 16F84A in the clock project unless you have the skills to modify
the source code appropriately. It’s
available from our website.
Although the PIC Programmer
& Checkerboard was not intended
for use with the 16F627/8, it
can be used with these new pincompatible devices with a small
modification.
You’ll need to install a resistor
between pin 10 of the PIC socket
(IC2) and ground. The purpose of
this resistor is to ensure that the
RB4/PGM pin is at logic low level
during programming, so preventing inadvertent selection of the
16F627/628 LVP (Low Voltage Pro
gramming) mode.
was correct (1W), you’d be able to
measure only 1.35V at the MOSFET
source for a load current of 1.35A and
4.25V for a load current of 4.25A.
So your measurements suggest that
there is something wrong with the
resistors making up your “1-ohm”
current range resistance; ie, the four
4.7W/10W resistors or the 2 x 15W/5W
resistors. It would therefore be a good
idea to check these resistors carefully.
For example if the four 10W resistors
were really 47W instead of 4.7W, this
would give a “range 3” resistance of
very close to 5.48W, instead of the
correct 1W.
Running CCTV cameras
from a switching supply
I have recently acquired an uninterruptible power supply made by Tactical Technologies which has a supply
output of 13.8V DC at 5A. Can this be
used to supply CCTV cameras rated at
12V? (D. G., via email).
• Ideally, it should be adjusted
to provide 12V; an internal adjustment should be available. Be careful
though – if it’s a switchmode supply,
part of the circuitry may be floating
at 240VAC! If there’s no adjustment,
connect three diodes in series to drop
the voltage to 12V. However, if it has
Choose a value of about 100kW
so that it doesn’t interfere too much
with the 10kW pullup resistor. Also,
make sure that pole 5 of DIPSW6 is
open during programming.
Note also that the software described in the article is now out of
date and will not run on Windows
2000/XP. We’re now recommending “WinPic”, which can be obtained from http://people.freenet.
de/dl4yhf/winpicpr.html. Select an
interface type of “Tait, 7407 driver
+PNP transistor” on the “Interface”
tab for use with this programmer.
Regarding the use of larger displays in the Big Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock, it all depends on the specifications of the proposed devices.
It may well be that a higher voltage
(rather than higher current) rail is
needed, if the larger displays use
more than four LEDs in series.
residual switchmode hash, it might
interfere with the video signal from
the cameras.
Load impedance
of the JV60
Some time ago I remember a speaker
project that SILICON CHIP published
that employed two (Vifa?) bass drivers
connected in parallel for the low-end
response. However, the second driver
also had an inductor in series with it,
to act as a low-pass filter at the -3dB
point of the first. This effectively
extended the overall bass response
by using that of the second driver to
supplement that of the first, without
affecting frequencies above the -3dB
point.
My question is: what impedance
does the amplifier see? Does it see
(assuming 8-ohm drivers) 8W down
to the -3dB point of the first, then 4W
below that? Or does it see 4W across
all frequencies handled by the bass
drivers? I’m assuming that this therefore has an impact on the electrical
sensitivity of the system. (P. S., Lane
Cove, NSW.
• The system in question was probably the JV60 described in the August
1995 issue. The practical answer is
in the impedance curve which was
November 2006 105
Running A Quartz Clock At Half Speed
Is it possible to modify a quartz
clock mechanism for 24-hour operation; ie, to run at half speed? (T. B.,
via email).
• Not only is it possible but because we were feeling extremely
generous, we knocked up the circuit
shown above to the do the job.
published in the article. It showed the
system as having a nominal impedance of 8W.
The woofers are effectively never
in parallel since they both have their
own crossover network.
How about a
chip amplifier?
I have been looking at your amplifier
projects from the past few years and
one thing you have never attempted is
106 Silicon Chip
Fig.1 shows the circuit of a typical quartz clock. The clock IC uses
a 38kHz crystal and divides it down
to provide narrow pulses every 2s
which drive the motor escapement.
Our modified circuit in Fig.2 uses
the 32kHz crystal in an external
oscillator and feeds it to a flipflop
a chip amplifier. These are very simple,
utilise cheap National Semiconductor
ICs and give off minimal heat. Sites
such as www.chipamp.com are a good
reference. One using the LM4780 chip
would give out 120W RMS into 8W or
60W into 8W depending on the configuration. (N. M., via email).
• We have had many hybrid amplifiers over the years: December 1993
(LM1875); February 1994 (LM3876);
March & April 1995 (LM3886); October & November 1996 (TDA1519A);
to derive 16kHz. This is then fed
to the clock chip’s oscillator input,
whereupon it is divided down to
narrow complementary pulses
every 4s.
Note that CMOS chips IC1 & IC2
run from 3V, while the clock chip
is run from the normal 1.5V supply.
May 2001 (TDA1519A); March 2002
(TDA1562Q); February & March
2003 (TDA1562Q); December 2004
(LM1875).
By the way, since all these amplifiers are essentially class-B designs
they don’t give off any less heat than
an equivalent amplifier design using
discrete components.
We had a quick look at the specifications of the LM4780 and as far as we
can see, it has little to recommend it
compared to our current designs using
siliconchip.com.au
discrete transistors. Both its distortion
and noise figures are fairly average.
Indeed, it is safe to say that no hybrid
amplifier chip presently available
gives a better performance than a carefully designed amplifier using discrete
components.
The advantage of the hybrids is
generally lower cost, simple assembly
and no need for adjustments.
Tacho has wrong
supply connection
I have built the digital tacho from
the April 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Could you please tell me if there is a
modification to correct the problem
that when the car is started, often the
tachometer does not register.
I have had to wire in a switch to
totally disconnect it from power until
the engine is running so that it reads
correctly. If it is connected when the
car is started, it often reads nothing.
(J. G., via email).
• You have probably connected the
tachometer to a supply point that is
switched off when the car is starting.
Check that the supply from the car for
the tachometer input does not drop to
below about 9V when starting.
Carbon pile battery
tester wanted
I am looking to build a carbon pile
battery tester. Is there a kit available
to make one? Are there suppliers that
sell adjustable carbon piles? (S. R.,
via email).
• While carbon pile battery testers are
still being made, they are a bit old hat.
We have not described one.
Newer battery testers use a switch-
mode circuit which pulls very heavy
but short current pulses from the battery. In fact, the Condition Checker in
our Battery Zapper featured in the May
2006 issue uses the same principle.
Missed Call Alert
is locked up
Both myself and a friend have
constructed the Phone/Fax Missed
Call project and both of us are having
identical problems.
When powered up, we get a constant call alert signal. The reset switch
discharges the capacitor but has little
change on the output from pin 10 on
the flipflop, inputs from pins 5 & 8 are
as per the article but there is a constant
6.48V on pins 9, 6 & 10. There is also
a 5V drop on the 100W resistor at the
input.
When the reset switch is pushed,
pin 5 goes low and the voltage on pins
9, 6 and 10 increases slightly to 6.55V
but no change to Q1 and the call alert.
Any assistance would be appreciated
as we seem to be at a dead end. (N. L.
via email)
• From your description, it sounds
as if the pin 8 input of the IC1b/IC1c
flipflop is being held down at logic low
level and thus keeping the flipflop in
its “set” state. You don’t provide any
voltages for the circuitry involving
IC1a and IC1d but we suggest you
check this section carefully because
the problem may be in this area.
In the absence of any calls, pin 1 of
IC1a should be at almost +12V while
pins 3 & 13 should be down at almost
0V, pin 12 at +0.6V and pin 11 (the
output of IC1d) should be again close
to +12V. These voltages should only
switch to their opposite logic levels
Notes & Errata
PIC Programmer & TestBed, October 2001: the PicProg software
described in the article is outdated
and will not work on recent model
PCs. A suitable alternative is WinPIC, which can be obtained from
http://people.freenet.de/dl4yhf/
winpicpr.html
Before use, configure WinPIC to
use an interface type of “COM84
programmer for serial port” and select the correct COM port from the
drop-down list. These settings can
be found on the “Interface” tab.
Galactic Voice. September 2006:
the panel in Fig.6 and in the photographs on pages 67 & 72 show
the Effect and Depth labelling reversed. The Effects control should
be in the middle.
during the ring tone of an incoming
call; pin 1 should go low, pins 3, 13 &
12 should go high and pin 11 should
go low.
If this does not occur, you may have
a problem in either this section of the
circuit or in the circuitry on the “phone
line” side of the optocoupler.
Just a suggestion: are you connecting the Missed Call Alerts onto phone
lines carrying ADSL broadband links
but before the ADSL filter? If so, your
problems may be caused by almost
constant triggering by the ADSL carriers on the line. In this case, the solution would be to fit an ADSL filter in
the phone line ahead of the Missed
SC
Call Alert.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 107
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
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PAYPAL (24/7)
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com.au/Shop/Books
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silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
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with order & credit card details
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ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
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To book your classified ad, email the text to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and include
your credit card details, or fax (02) 9939 2648, or post to Silicon Chip Classifieds,
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SPK360
3/5/06 1:10 PM
Page 1
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
20 years experience!
More control solutions for you!
NEW K145Server: monitor temperatures
in server rooms, hothouses etc remotely
over the web for less than $100.
NEW 500oz-in plus Stepper Motor:
may not be the fastest motor on the
block but it has real grunt.
NEW DC Motor Controllers from
Pololu: these motor controllers have been
designed for robotic applications. Range
from mini dual 1A controllers to 30A.
NEW Servo Motor Controllers from
Pololu: control your R/C servo motors
with our serial servo controllers Ideal
for robotic applications. Control up to 8
servos with the one card.
Netiom Link: automatically transfer
digital inputs and outputs between two
cards over an Ethernet link.
Electronic Thermostats with digital
temperature display; two control relays;
can be used in heating and cooling.
110 Silicon Chip
NTC thermistor or J T/C or Pt100
sensors.
Low Cost Mini Panel Meter Displays:
programmable 4-20mA $155 and Tacho
meter $129.
Isolated RS232 to RS485 convert
ers.
USB to RS422/RS485 converter with
1500V Isolation, RTS or Auto Data Flow
control.
Signal Conditioners non isolated
and isolated: convert thermocouples,
RTDs to 4-20mA or 0-10V Fully pro
grammable.
Stepper Motors: we have a selection
of Stepper motors for hobby and high
torque CNC applications.
DC Motors for both hobby and high
torque applications.
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller
kits.
Serial and Parallel Port relay controller
cards.
PIC MicroProgrammers: serial and
USB port operated.
HI-FISPEAKER REPAIRS
YOUR EXPERT SPEAKER REPAIR SPECIALISTS
Specialising in UK, US and Danish brands.
Speakerbits are your vintage, rare and collectable speaker
repair experts. Foam surrounds, voice coils, complete
recone kits and more. Original OEM parts for Scan-Speak,
Dynaudio, Tannoy, JBL, ElectroVoice and others!
SPK360
FOR SALE
tel: 03 9647 7000 www.speakerbits.com
Switch Mode, Battery Chargers and
DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering
available at www.oceancontrols.com.
au Helping to put you in control.
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed & direction, inside temperature, outside temperature and windchill. Records highs
and lows with time and date as they
occur. Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used by government departments,
farmers, pilots and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
siliconchip.com.au
Satellite TV Reception
VIDEO - AUDIO - PC
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
distribution amps - splitters
digital standards converters - tbc's
switchers - cables - adaptors
genlockers - scan converters
bulk vga cable - wallplates
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
High quality
Realistic prices
Free software updates
Large range of adaptors
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
Our company has been a leading designer,
manufacturer & wholesaler of electronic security
& technology products since 1978. We need
passionate & experienced sales and technical
staff to join us in providing the best service to
our wholesale customers around the world.
2 x 100MSa/s 10bit inputs + trigger
100MHz bandwidth
8 x digital inputs
4M samples/input
Sig-gen + spectrum analyser
Windows 98/Me/NT/2k/XP
IMAGECRAFT C COMPILERS
ANSI C compilers, Windows IDE
AVR, TMS430, ARM7/ARM9
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12
www.grantronics.com.au
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
www.iinet.au/~worcom
WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
49a George Street, Kensington WA 6151
Ph: (08) 9367 6330 Fax: (08) 9367 2459
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch: phone (03) 9761 7040; fax (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Victoria 3137. ABN 63 006 399
480. www.davisinstruments.com.au
QUALITY LED TORCHES, 1W: Fenix
L0P & L1P, CIVICTOR V1 use a single
AAA or AA cell. 3-watt: Fenix L1T & L2T
siliconchip.com.au
QUEST
®
Quest AV®
VGA Splitter
VGS2
AWP1
A-V Wallplate
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
In the first instance please send your resume to:
9 Hannabus Place, McGraths Hill NSW 2756
Ph: 02 4577 4708 Fax: 02 4577 4885
Email: manager<at>rhino.com.au
MD12 Media Distribution Amplifier
HQ VGA
Cables
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
CAREER OPPORTUNITY IN
WHOLESALE ELECTRONICS
DVS5c & DVS5s
High Performance
Video / S-Video
and Audio Splitters
with 1 or 2 AA cells. Fenix P1/Nuwai QIII
& TM-301X-3 use 1 or 2 CR123A cells.
The AIT Nightstar uses no batteries at
all! www.torchworld.com.au/sc/
Come to the
specialists...
®
Quest Electronics® Pty Limited abn 83 003 501 282 t/a Questronix
Products, Specials & Pricelist at www.questronix.com.au
fax (02) 4341 2795
phone (02) 4343 1970
email: questav<at>questronix.com.au
www.dontronics.com has 300 selected
hardware and software products available from over 40 world wide manufacturers, and authors.
Atmel Programmers And Compilers:
AVR-ISP USB In-System Programmer,
STK500, Codevision C, Bascom AVR,
FED AVIDICY Pro, MikroElektronika Basic
and Pascal, Flash File support, and boot
loaders.
PICmicro Programmers And Compilers:
microEngineering Labs USB programmers, adapters, and Basic Compilers, DIY
(Kitsrus) USB programmers, MikroElektronika Basic, Pascal, DSpic Pascal Compilers,
CCS C, FED C, Hi-Tech C, MikroElektronika
C, disassembler and hex tools.
Other Micros: Tiny Arm, Z80, 8085, etc.
hardware and software.
CAN: Lawicell CANUSB, CAN232
FTDI: USB Family of IC ‘s. FT232RL,
FT2452RL, also BL and others.
4DSystems LCD/Graphics: Add VGA
monitor, or 1.5” LCD to your micro.
Heaps And Heaps Of USB Products:
TTL, RS-232, RS-485, modules, cables,
analyzers, CRO’s.
Popular Easysync USB To RS-232
Cable: Works when the others fail. Only
one recommended by CBUS. Money back
guarantee.
www.dontronics-shop.com
November 2006 111
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
RFMA RF Modules Australia
Low Power Wireless Connectivity Specialists
Applications: TX2H-433-64-5V
Rural
UHF FM Transmitter
UHF Narrowband Transceiver
Utilities
In Stock NOW!
In Stock NOW!
Industrial
Range: 500m
Range: 500m
Power: 25mW
Power: 10mW
Commercial
Data rate: 64kbps
Data rate: 10kbps
Government
Receiver: RX2A-433-64
33mm x 23mm x 12mm Meter Reading
RADIOMETRIX: Low Power, Licence Exempt Radio Modules
NiM2-434.650-10
RF Modules Australia. P.O. Box 1957 Launceston, TAS., 7250.
Ph: 03-6331-6789. Email: sales<at>rfmodules.com.au. Web: rfmodules.com.au
Parallax Basic Stamps
The awesome simultasking 8-core Propeller Chip.
Lots of sensors and Development kits + Robots.
Ultrasonics, PIR accelerometer.
Serial LCD display, serial keypads.
Stepper Motor Controllers & Motors
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
SWITCHMODE 5V reg. module kit just
$6, or $7 built. 10.5 inch 7-segment dis112 Silicon Chip
Micro stepping up to 25,600
fully protected industrial
grade controllers at incredible
prices.
PCB mount units with full 32
bit indexer capability.
DIN rail mount controller for factory applications.
See our website for details and PDF file.
Call or email us for application assistance.
ron<at>nollet.com.au
R T Nollet: Ph (03) 9338 3306; fax (03) 9338
4596; mobile 0407 804 712.
www.nollet.com.au
play kit from $30. LEDs, nixies, kits, lots
of other stuff. www.ledsales.com.au
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS,
Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books,
Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon,
SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Goodmans, Wharfedale,
Tannoy, radio and wireless. Collector/
Hobbyist will pay cash. (07) 5471 1062.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
Advertising Index
Agilent Technologies...................... 3
Alternative Technology Assoc. ..... 87
Altronics...................51, loose insert
Av-Comm................................... 111
BitScope Designs......................... 75
Davis Instruments...................... 111
Dick Smith Electronics............ 20-25
Digital Graphics.......................... 112
Dontronics.................................. 111
Elan Audio.................................... 19
FreeNet Antennas...................... 111
Furzy Electronics........................ 111
Grantronics................................. 111
Harbuch Electronics..................... 95
Instant PCBs.............................. 111
Jaycar ....................... IFC,53-60,112
JED Microprocessors..................... 5
MicroByte Electronics................. 110
Microgram Computers.................. 11
MicroZed Computers.................... 92
Ocean Controls.......................... 110
Oatley Electronics........................ 93
Quest Electronics....................... 111
Radio Parts.............................. OBC
RCS Radio................................. 112
RhinoCo Technology.................. 111
RF Modules......................... IBC,112
RS Components........................... 49
RTN............................................ 112
SC – Radio & Hobbies DVD......... 40
Silicon Chip Binders................ 19,62
Silicon Chip Bookshop........ 108-109
Silicon Chip Car Book...... 33,79,101
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 61
Sesame Electronics.................. 112
Speakerbits................................ 110
Swann Communications.............. 15
Trusys........................................... 87
Worldwide Elect. Components... 111
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP designs can be obtained from
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
November 2006 113
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