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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Admiral 5BW mantel receiver
Domestic valve radios with PC boards
were relatively uncommon, with most
manufacturers sticking to point-to-point
wiring until the end of the valve era. One
exception to this rule was the Admiral 5BW
mantel receiver.
I
NSTEAD OF using PC boards, domestic transistor radios were initially
built the same way as valve receivers
were – ie, with point-to-point wiring.
The transistors were also sometimes
mounted in sockets, just like valves.
Of course, today we look on such
techniques as archaic and totally
unsuited to modern technology. Everything is now on PC boards and
point-to-point wiring is minimised if
not eliminated altogether.
Valve radio receivers were traditionally built using a metal chassis to
which all the major components (eg,
transformers, valve sockets, tuning
gang, etc) were attached. The wiring
was all point-to-point which made the
assembly slow and expensive.
However, some manufacturers did
start using PC boards in valve radios
in the late 1950s. We looked at one of
these, the Healing 412E, back in February 2001. Admiral, an American firm,
also built valve radios with PC boards
in Australia but their technique was
somewhat different to Healing’s.
Admiral 5BW mantel receiver
Admiral Australia Pty Ltd was
located in Gow St, Bankstown, NSW
and began manufacturing domestic
radios and TV receivers in the mid
1950s. However, they apparently only
remained in this field for a few years.
The Admiral 5BW receiver looks
much like any other “plastic” mantel
receiver of the era. Internally, however,
it was different from other receivers
in that it used a PC board to mount
most of the parts. The only items not
mounted on the 100 x 100mm PC
board were the ferrite-rod antenna, the
combined volume/on-off/tone control,
This is the fully-restored Admiral 5BW in its case. Also shown is the
barrel nut that secures the dual volume/tone control assembly.
98 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Admiral 5BW receiver is a fairly conventional superhet
receiver with five valves and a loopstick antenna.
the loudspeaker and its transformer,
the tuning gang and the power
transformer.
As shown in the photos,
the chassis is very sparsely
populated except on the
PC board. Certainly, if the
manufacturer had wanted to,
the set could have been made
much smaller.
Circuit details
Although the circuit is
conventional, it has a few
features that were not commonly used in Australian-designed receivers. For example,
the input tuned circuit consists
of a 200mm-long x 9mm-dia
meter ferrite rod with a coupling
coil and lead so that an external
antenna can be connected to the
set. There is no earth lead as such
– instead, the set relies on the capacitance between the primary winding of
the power transformer and the other
windings and the chassis to provide
a defacto earth via the mains.
Unfortunately, this isn’t the best
way to achieve optimum reception,
as the mains has electrical noise on
it. This noise is coupled into the antenna circuit, giving less than perfect
reception in many cases. Additionally,
a purpose-made earth ensures that a
stronger signal is achieved at the input
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This view shows the chassis with the 6VA6 removed
so that the M2 “couplate” can be seen (arrowed). This
contains numerous components assembled into a
7-pin module for PC board mounting.
circuit, as the mains “earth” is not all
that efficient.
The converter stage uses a 6BE6 and
is quite conventional, although it has
little standing bias and relies on the
fact that the high tension (HT) voltage
is relatively low. In addition, the set
will normally be tuned to a station and
hence AGC voltage will be applied.
The tuning range of the receiver
is 535-1670kHz which means that it
requires some tweaking to reach the
lowest frequency on the broadcast
band (531kHz). By contrast, at the
high-frequency end, it can tune to a
number of the special broadcasting
services in the 1600-1700kHz subband. The output of the converter
is at 455kHz and this is fed to the IF
(intermediate frequency) stages.
The 455kHz IF is amplified by a
neutralised 6BA6 amplifier and this
has cathode bias applied to it in addition to AGC voltage. The neutralising
September 2006 99
This view shows the front of the chassis after removal from the case.
Note the dual volume/tone control assembly at bottom left.
capacitor is C9 (4.7pF ceramic) which
is in a bridge circuit. Another arm of
the neutralising circuit is C8 which is
the AGC bypass capacitor.
With this neutralising scheme, neither of these components should be
altered to the nearest available value
if replacement is required, otherwise
the stage could oscillate at 455kHz.
The next valve in the line-up is a
6AV6 which serves a multiple role
as the diode detector, AGC amplifier
and first audio amplifier. The grid has
contact potential bias applied to it and
the coupling between the plate of the
6AV6 and the following 6AQ5 output
valve is conventional.
However, although the 6AV6 circuit
is conventional, the way in which it is
made is not. Instead of point-to-point
wiring, all the parts (including three
resistors and five capacitors) are assembled into a 7-pin module that’s
suitable for PC-board mounting.
The downside to this is that some
faults require that the entire module
100 Silicon Chip
be removed for repairs. This isn’t easy
because of the limited room adjacent
to it on the chassis. This is highlighted
by the arrow pointing to the M2 “Couplate” in one of the photographs.
On the other hand, the “Couplates”
are fairly reliable. Quite a few of
the capacitors in the set are ceramic
(which are more reliable than paper
capacitors) and the “Couplate” also
uses ceramic capacitors.
The audio output stage uses a 6AQ5
with cathode bias. The speaker transformer is mounted on the loudspeaker
frame, which in turn is mounted on the
front of the cabinet. This assembly is
connected via a flying lead and a 4-pin
plug into a socket on the chassis.
Note that although the circuit shows
only two leads from the transformer,
there are in fact four wires in total
because of negative feedback from
the voice coil. As shown in Fig.1, the
cathode of the 6AQ5 is connected via
the voice coil to earth and the valve is
supplied with back bias.
In fact, the circuit diagram and the
actual circuit are different in several
areas. However, these differences are
minor and should not present a problem to restorers.
The tone control circuit in the plate
circuit of the 6AQ5 is poorly thought
out in my opinion. The potentiometer is “live” at 200V DC (not the 170V
shown on the circuit diagram) which
places some strain on its insulation
and is also a trap for unwary fingers.
If the position of the capacitor and the
potentiometer had been transposed
in the circuit, there would be no DC
voltage on the potentiometer and the
whole set-up would have been safer.
Cleaning the cabinet
The instructions in the service
manual for dismantling the set are
quite clear although they don’t completely cover the set I have. However,
the chassis isn’t hard to remove. First,
the centre piece of the “handspan”
dial was unscrewed. The dial then
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SILICON
CHIP
This page from the service manual shows the specifications of Admiral’s
5BW. Also shown is some basic servicing information, including the PC
board layout.
came away easily as did the concentric
volume and tone control knobs.
That done, the four screws used to
secure the back of the cabinet were
removed. There were no other screws
holding the set in the cabinet but it was
still fastened by the volume and tone
controls. Closer inspection revealed
that these controls are attached to the
front panel by a barrel nut over the
control shafts. Removing this then
allowed the chassis to slide out of
the cabinet as far as the speaker leads
would allow.
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Why do manufacturers leave leads
just too short for effective access or
maintenance to be carried out? In this
case, I wanted to be able to check the
set with the chassis out of the cabinet,
so I extended the speaker leads.
I had worked on this receiver several
years ago, so the cabinet was in reasonable condition and only required
a small amount of effort to get rid of
any minor blemishes. However, inside
the cabinet there are a number of burn
marks which are too deep to remove.
Just how these burn marks occurred is
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Most of the parts are on the PC board, so there’s not a lot to see under the chassis. As a
result, the chassis depth is quite shallow.
something of a mystery, as there are no
hot components in their vicinity.
Fixing the faults
As normal, I began by checking the
insulation between the chassis and
the mains wiring using my 1000V
insulation tester. This measured OK,
however I also used an earth leakage
circuit breaker on the mains as an extra precaution, as this set only had a
2-core power lead fitted during these
initial tests. It was later fitted with a
3-core lead, so that the chassis could
be earthed (which is much safer).
As stated previously, this set used
quite a few ceramic capacitors, particularly in locations were leakage
could pose problems. However, I
wasn’t happy with the leakage of the
only paper capacitor on the PC board
– a 100nF unit across the 100V line.
This was replaced with a polyester
type and the set then switched on. As
it came on, I made sure that the HT
rose to the correct level and that the
rectifier wasn’t showing any red plates,
which would indicate a short or near
short on the HT line.
During my previous work on this
set, I had cleaned away the muck that
had accumulated on the horizontallymounted PC board. This had been
quite difficult to remove due to the
crowded nature of the circuit board.
It had even effected the components
so that they all now looked much the
same colour and making it difficult
to decipher resistor and capacitor
values.
As a result, the new resistors I fitted
really do stand out from the dull-looking original components. Of course,
the board would not have required
anywhere near as much cleaning if it
had been mounted vertically.
Anyway, the set had worked quite
well when checked over several years
ago but its performance had now
deteriorated quite markedly. So what
had gone wrong with the set? The IF
amplifier was now quite regenerative and this had sharpened up the
response such that the audio output
was quite “bassy”.
I began by checking the metal
shields fitted to the 6BE6 and the
6BA6 valves as these now appeared
quite rusty. As a result, I cleaned the
insides of the shields with sandpaper
and bent the earthing fingers to ensure
a positive connection to each shield.
This made little difference, so I then
tried another 6BA6 with the result that
there was now no output from the set.
The reason wasn’t hard to find – its
heater wasn’t alight. Initially, I thought
it must be a dud valve so I substituted
another one but the same thing happened. I then refitted the original valve
and its and the heater lit up! So what
was going on?
The filaments of the two new valves
I have substituted were quite OK so I
tried closing up the valve socket pins
using a small pointed scriber. That
fixed the heater problem and the set
was also now quite stable when using
one of the replacement valves.
Evidently, there is a problem with
the original valve that causes the instability but I’m not throwing it out, as it
may be quite OK in a different circuit.
However, I have marked it as suspect
so that I don’t get caught out further
down the track.
Although the set was now stable,
the sensitivity was down and the IF
was off tune, with its centre frequency
down around 430kHz. As a result, I
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102 Silicon Chip
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Photo Gallery: Peter Pan BKM 4-Valve Radio
MANUFACTURED IN 1948 by Eclipse Radio, South Melbourne, the Peter Pan
BKM was a 4-valve reflex superheterodyne housed in a rounded bakelite
cabinet that was very modern for the era. This example is housed in the
less common green cabinet.
The valve line-up was as follows: 6A8-G frequency changer; 6B8-G reflexed
IF amplifier/1st audio amplifier/detector/AVC rectifier; 6V6-GT audio output;
and 5Y3-GT rectifier. Photo: Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
tried adjusting the cores to bring it up
to 455kHz, which is the correct frequency, and found that I could adjust
all but one core which was stuck.
I then tried running some machine
oil down the stuck core, after which I
was able to adjust it. However, I was
still unable to get this core to adjust
the tuned circuit to 455kHz and I was
beginning to suspect the mica capacitor inside this unit.
Unfortunately, this particular IF
transformer is a sealed unit, so I was
unable to dismantle it to fix the problem. In the end, I simply replaced
it with an IF transformer salvaged
from another Admiral chassis. This
replacement IF transformer was then
adjusted to 455kHz but although the
performance was better, it was still not
up to scratch.
A quick check of all the RF valves
did not reveal any problems, so I
decided to take a closer look at the
antenna circuit. In particular, I noticed
that the antenna coupling coil on the
loopstick was quite some distance from
the earthy end of the tuned winding.
siliconchip.com.au
So did it have enough coupling?
To find out, I wound about half a
dozen turns of insulated enamelled
wire onto the earthy end of the tuned
winding and found that this noticeably improved the performance. I am
now satisfied that I’ve got as good a
performance from this set as I can
reasonably expect.
Summary
Admiral was one of the first manufacturers to use PC boards and they
nearly got everything right with this
set. However, with the benefit of hindsight, the PC board could have been
mounted vertically and all the fixed
capacitors other than electrolytics
should have been ceramic types for
greater reliability (polyester capacitors weren’t readily available at that
time).
The set itself is neat and functional
and makes a good kitchen mantel
receiver. Finally, although my set is
cream in colour, it was also available
in red, turquoise and green. It is a set
worth having in any collection. SC
September 2006 103
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