This is only a preview of the April 2007 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 36 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "Build A Jacob's Ladder":
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By JOHN CLARKE
Programmable Ignition
System For Cars; Pt.2
Six Versions To Build To Suit Your Car’s Trigger Input!
This month, we describe the circuit for the
LCD Hand Controller module and provide all
the assembly details for the Programmable
Ignition. There are six versions to build.
L
AST MONTH, we published the
circuit details for the Programmable Ignition Timing Module and its
companion Ignition Coil Driver Module and described their operation in
some detail. The various input trigger
circuits (points, reluctor, Hall sensor,
optical, etc) were also described.
LCD Hand Controller
That just leaves the LCD Hand
Controller Module. Its circuit is
shown in Fig.7. It comprises an LCD
module, a 4017 decade counter (IC1),
a DB25 socket and several pushbutton switches. This unit connects to
the main circuit via a standard DB25
RS-232 cable.
Signals from the microcontroller
66 Silicon Chip
in the Programmable Ignition Timing
Module drive both the LCD module
and IC1. IC1 has 10 outputs and each
output independently goes high in
sequence as it is clocked at its pin 14
input. A high at the reset (MR, pin 15)
sets the “0” output at pin 3 high.
Each output connects to a switch.
When a switch is closed, it pulls pin 9
of the DB25 socket high whenever its
corresponding output on IC1 is high.
This allows the microcontroller (in the
Ignition Timing Module) to recognise
which switch is closed.
The LCD is driven using data lines
DB7-DB4. The display readings are
entered via the data lines and are
controlled via the EN and RS (Enable
and Register Select) inputs.
Note that the data lines and the EN
& RS lines are all connected to ground
via 330W resistors. These resistors
allow the LCD module to be driven
without the signals being corrupted
by interference from the car’s ignition.
Finally, trimpot VR1 is used to adjust the display contrast.
Construction
OK, that completes the circuit
description. Let’s now build all the
modules for the unit.
As shown in the accompanying diagrams, the Programmable Ignition system is built on three PC boards – one
for the Programmable Ignition Timing
Module (code 05104071, 103 x 82mm);
one for the Ignition Coil Driver Module
(code 05104072, 40 x 39mm); and one
for the LCD Hand Controller (code
05104073, 115 x 65mm). The Programmable Ignition Timing Module board
is housed in a diecast aluminium case
measuring 119 x 93 x 57mm, while the
Ignition Coil Driver board goes into a
much smaller diecast case measuring
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Fig.7: the circuit for the LCD Hand Controller is quite simple. It uses 10 switches, an LCD module, a 4017 counter
(IC1), a DB25 socket, a 10mF capacitor and a few resistors. Trimpot VR1 sets the display contrast.
51 x 51 x 32mm.
The LCD Hand Controller board goes
into a 120 x 70 x 30mm plastic case
with a clear lid.
Before installing any parts, check
each PC board for etching defects by
comparing it against a printout of its
pattern (you can download the relevant board files from the SILICON CHIP
website). Check also that all the holes
have been drilled and that the hole
sizes for the larger parts are correct.
Ignition timing module
There are six different component
layouts for this board, one for each
different trigger input. It’s just a matter
of choosing the one that’s applicable
to your car.
For example, if your car has a reluctor distributor, follow the reluctor
version overlay diagram – see Fig.10.
Similarly, if it has a Hall effect or
Lumenition pickup module, use the
layout of Fig.11, etc.
It’s not difficult to recognise the
different sensor types. Reluctor dissiliconchip.com.au
tributors have a coil and a magnetic
ring that has as many points (or protrusions) as the number of engine
cylinders. By contrast, Hall effect
distributors include a metal vane that
passes through a gap in the Hall sensor
itself. Lumenition triggers are similar
to Hall effect sensors and so the overlay
diagrams for these trigger types are the
same – see Fig.9.
Start construction by installing PC
stakes at the external wiring points,
then solder in all the wire links. That
done, install the resistors, using Table
1 as a guide to select the values. In addition, it’s also a good idea to check
each resistor using a digital multimeter
(DMM) to make sure you have the correct resistor for each position.
Next, install the IC socket for the
microcontroller, making sure that it’s
oriented with its notch at the lefthand
end, as shown. Don’t install the microcontroller (IC1) at this stage though
– that step comes later.
Diode D1 and TVS1 are next on the
list. Note that D1 must be oriented as
shown, while TVS1 can be installed
either way around. Follow these with
the transistor(s) and REG1, taking care
to ensure that these parts are oriented
correctly.
Trimpot VR1 should now be installed if you are building the reluctor
version (Fig.10). It should be oriented
with its adjusting screw to the left.
The link headers for LK1 and LK2
can be installed now. LK1 is a 3-way
header while LK2 is a 2-way header.
Place a jumper shunt over two of the
three pins for LK1 and another jumper
shunt onto both pins for LK2.
Now for the capacitors. Several
types are used on the board: ceramic,
MKT and electrolytic. The ceramic capacitors are all shown on the overlays
in yellow, so that you don’t get them
confused with the MKT types. Be sure
to orient each electrolytic capacitor
with the polarity shown.
Once the capacitors are all in, install the crystal (X1). Note that the
crystal’s metal case is earthed using a
short wire link. This link is soldered
April 2007 67
Fig.8: this is the points version. Secure all wiring leads to the board using cable ties and cover the
connections to the PC stakes with heatshrink tubing or silicone, to prevent them coming loose.
Fig.9: the engine management trigger version requires no additional input conditioning circuitry. In this
case, the ECU trigger signal goes straight to pin 6 of IC1 via a 2.2kW resistor.
to the case and runs to a pad on the PC
board between the two 22pF ceramic
capacitors.
Sensym pressure sensor
If you are using the Sensym absolute
pressure sensor (eg, if you car doesn’t
68 Silicon Chip
already have a MAP sensor or you are
not using a seconhand MAP sensor),
then this can be installed now. Note
the orientation notch on the sensor –
this goes towards the righthand edge
of the PC board. If you get the Sensym
sensor’s orientation wrong, it will not
be powered but no damage will result
from doing this.
Inductors
Inductors L1 & L2 are next on the
list. First, L2 is made by passing
a 0.7mm tinned copper wire link
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Fig.10: follow this parts layout diagram if your car’s distributor has a reluctor pickup. The Sensym pressure
sensor is used only if there is no external MAP sensor (applies to all versions).
Fig.11: this is the layout to follow if the distributor uses a Hall Effect device or a Lumenition module. Take
care with component orientation during assembly.
through three ferrite beads. A length
of the 4mm heatshrink tubing is then
slid over the three cores and shrunk
down to hold everything in place, after
which the assembly can be soldered
to the board.
Inductor L1 is much larger. It’s
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made by winding 23 turns of 0.5mm
enamelled copper wire through a 15
x 8 x 6.5mm powdered-iron toroidal
core. These turns should be evenly
spaced around the core, as shown
on the overlays. That done, the wire
ends are stripped of insulation and
soldered to the PC pads. The toroid is
then secured to t he board using two
plastic cable ties.
Finally, the DB25 socket can be
installed in position. Before doing
this though, two D-connector nut
extenders must to be attached to the
April 2007 69
Fig.12: build this version if your distributor has been fitted with a Crane optical pickup. Make sure that
inductor L1 is firmly secured, to ensure reliability (all versions).
Fig.13: the Piranha optical pickup version is almost identical to the Crane version but note the different
locations for the 22kW and 120W resistors.
PC board. These are simply passed
through their two mounting holes
and secured using spring washers and
nuts on the underside of the board. In
addition, the righthand extender is
fitted with a Nylon washer to prevent
the spring washer and nut from short70 Silicon Chip
ing to nearby tracks. Don’t leave this
washer out!
By contrast, the lefthand extender
makes contact with the ground track
on the PC board, so that the shell
of the socket is earthed when it is
installed. That way, when the DB25
lead is connected, its shield will also
be earthed.
The DB25 socket can now be secured in place using a second set of
nut extenders and its pins soldered to
the PC pads. Note that you may need
to cut down the extender threads so
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Fig.14: these diagrams show the modifications required to
invert the output from the Ignition Timing Module.
the nuts sit flush with the socket’s
mounting flange.
Inverting the output
In normal operation, the RB3 output
from the Programmable Ignition Timer
Module goes high in order to turn on
transistor Q1 (via Q3 & Q2) in the Ignition Coil Driver. This in turn allows
current to flow through the primary
of the coil.
Conversely, when RB3 goes low, Q1
switches off, the current through the
coil is interrupted and the coil “fires”
the relevant spark plug. So a low-going
signal at the Ignition Timing Module’s
output normally causes the Ignition
Coil Driver to fire a plug via the coil.
However, there may be some applications where the output from the
Programmable Ignition Timing Module needs to be inverted; ie, so that
a low output “charges” the coil and
a high-going output causes the plug
to fire. This may be the case if you
connect the Programmable Ignition
Timing Module to a different ignition
coil driver.
In this case, an inverted output can
be provided using the tachometer
driver transistor (Q4). The necessary
changes to the circuit and to the PC
board layout are shown in Fig.14. The
only extra parts required are a 220W
resistor and some tinned copper wire
for the link.
Housing
Having completed the board assembly, the next step is to install it in its
metal diecast case. Fig.15 shows the
assembly details.
The first step is to position the
board inside the case and mark out
its four mounting holes. That done,
remove the PC board and drill the
mounting holes to 3mm. Deburr each
hole using an oversize drill bit, then
secure a 6mm-long tapped spacer to
each mounting point using an M3 x
15mm screw inserted from the outside
of the case.
You will also have to drill a hole in
one end of the box to accept a cable
gland for the various external leads
(ie, +12V lead, trigger signal leads and
signal output lead). An additional hole
for a second cable gland will also be
required if you are using an external
MAP sensor (see Fig.15).
Next, a 3mm hole must be drilled
through the side of the box adjacent to
the GND (0V) PC stake. This mounting hole is used to terminate an earth
wire from the PC board via a crimped
eyelet connector. A second wire terminated in an eyelet connector is also
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
10nF
2.2nF
1nF
470pF
22pF
mF code
0.22mF
0.1mF
.01mF
.0022mF
.001mF
NA
NA
IEC Code EIA Code
220n
224
100n
104
10n
103
2n2
222
1n0
102
470p
471
22p
22
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
2
3
1
7
2
1
1
3
2
1
1
9
Value
100kW
47kW
22kW
10kW
2.2kW
1.8kW
1.2kW
1kW
470W
120W
100W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
April 2007 71
Fig.15: this diagram shows the final assembly and external wiring details for the Ignition Timing Module. Note how
the 0V (ground) rail on the PC board is connected to one side of the case, with a lead then run from this point to the
vehicle’s chassis. Use cable ties to help secure the leads, both inside and outside the case.
attached to the outside of the case to
make the chassis connection, with the
entire assembly secured using a M3 x
9mm screw, nut and star washer – see
Fig.15.
Another 3mm hole is drilled to allow the metal tab of regulator REG1 to
be secured to the case using two M3 x
15mm tapped metal spacers. This arrangement serves a dual purpose: (1)
it mechanically secures the regulator
to prevent its from breaking; and (2)
it provides heatsinking for the regulator tab.
The two spacers are secured to
REG1’s tab using an M3 x 20mm screw,
while an M3 x 9mm screw secured the
spacers to the side of the case.
Note that star washers must be used
under each screw head, to prevent the
assembly from shaking loose.
Hose adapter
This view shows the assembled PC board for the Ignition Timing Module with
the optional internal Sensym MAP sensor fitted (ie, when there is no existing
external MAP sensor or you are not using a secondhand MAP sensor). Make
sure that the unit is ruggedly built (ie, so that no leads can come adrift).
72 Silicon Chip
If you are using the on-board Sensym pressure sensor, then a hose
connection will be required from the
sensor to a chassis-mount flange (or
through-piece) on the side of the box.
This piece serves as both an anchor
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Manifold Pressure Sensor Options
I
N ORDER TO utilise the vacuum advance
feature provided by the Programmable
Ignition System, some means of monitoring manifold pressure is required.
There are several options available
here. The simplest option is to use the
MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor
that’s already installed on your car (if it
has one). This sensor would normally be
used to detect manifold pressure for the
car’s own Engine Management Unit, to
control the timing.
If your car does not have a MAP sensor,
then you can easily obtain one to do the
job. There are different sensors to suit
normally aspirated engines and to suit
turbocharged engines.
Normally aspirated engines do not
boost the air pressure for the fuel mixture
and so a 1-bar (one atmosphere, 100kPa
point and as a 3mm-to-5mm adapter.
This is necessary because the sensor’s hose connection is 3mm in dia
meter while a standard automotive
vacuum tube requires (at least) a 5mm
fitting to enable it to stay in place
without air leaks.
A 15mm round brass spacer is used
as the adapter. The 3mm-diameter
hose from the sensor is pushed inside
the spacer at one end (ie, the end inside
the case), while the external vacuum
tube is fitted over the spacer at the
other end (outside the case).
Note that it will be necessary to enlarge the hole at one end of the spacer
slightly to accept the 3mm (ID) hose.
Silicone sealant can be used later,
when fitting the hoses, to ensure that
or 15psi) sensor is all that is required.
These sensors measure the air pressure
compared to a vacuum and output a voltage close to 4V for atmospheric pressures
and close to 0V for a vacuum.
Turbo engines boost the air pressure
above atmospheric and consequently
a 1-bar sensor is inadequate. This is
because the output from a 1-bar sensor
would not change for pressures above
1-bar. There is also a possibility that the
sensor could be damaged if the pressure
went too far beyond its rating.
In this case, a 2-bar sensor should be
adequate for most applications. However,
if the boost is greater than 2-bar, a 3-bar
sensor will be required instead.
One option is to use an on-board Sensym sensor that covers from 0-1 bar or
from 0-2 bar, as specified in the parts list.
the connections are air-tight.
Fig.16 shows how the adapter is
fitted. First, a brass nut is soldered to
one end of the adapter, after which
the adapter is pushed through a 5mm
hole in the side of the case. It is then
clamped in position using a 20mm
OD washer and a couple of M3 x 6mm
machine screws that go into tapped
holes in the washer (or you could use
M2 x 10mm screws and nuts).
Alternatively, you can do away with
the adapter altogether and pack the
inlet on the Sensym sensor out with
several layers of heatshrink tubing
so that the 5mm hose is a tight fit.
That way, the 5mm (ID) vacuum hose
that runs to the engine manifold can
simply pass through a hole in the
Fig.17: this is the parts layout for the Ignition Trigger
Module. Note the different orientations for ZD1-ZD4.
siliconchip.com.au
This device is best used at temperatures
ranging from 0-85°C and so the Programmable Ignition Timing Module should be
mounted inside the cabin rather than in
the engine bay.
Alternatively, most automotive wreckers
can sell you a MAP sensor quite cheaply.
These are available from various models
of Holden, Honda, Toyota, Subaru and
others. Details of the Holden type 1-bar,
2-bar and 3-bar MAP sensors and the
Motorola 2.5-bar MAP sensor are available
at this web site: http://web.archive.org/
web/20050906201309/www.pgmfi.org/
twiki/bin/view/Library/MapSensor
Typically, the 1-bar Holden sensors are
designated with a 039, 460 or 883 code.
2-bar sensors have a 886, 012, 539 or
609 code and 3-bar sensors have a 749
code. The A, B and C labels refer to the
positioning of the Ground, Signal and
+5V terminals.
Fig.16: a simple adapter made
from a brass spacer can be used
to connect the 3mm outlet on
the Sensym pressure sensor to a
standard 5mm vacuum hose.
The metal tab of the Darlington transistor (Q1)
must be insulated from the case using a TO-218
insulating washer and a Nylon screw and nut.
April 2007 73
case and go straight to the Sensym
pressure sensor.
As before, silicone sealant can be
used to ensure an airtight fit but be
careful not to block the sensor inlet
with the sealant.
Once all the holes have been drilled
in the case, the PC board can be fitted
and the assembly completed as shown
in Fig.15. Be sure to use automotive
wiring for all external connections.
These leads should all be secured using cable ties and the connections to
the PC stakes covered with heatshrink
tubing. This is necessary to prevent
the leads from vibrating and coming
adrift.
Wiring the pressure sensor
There are three options when it
comes to wiring the pressure sensor:
(1) If you are using an existing MAP
sensor, connect the signal lead only.
DO NOT connect the +5V and 0V
supply leads (the sensor will already
have supply connections).
(2) If you are using an external (eg,
secondhand) MAP sensor that you’ve
added to the vehicle, then connect all
three leads (ie, signal, +5V and 0V).
(3) If you are using the on-board Sensym sensor, do not make any external
connections (the second cable gland
can be deleted).
Ignition Coil Driver
Fig.18: final assembly and external wiring details for the Ignition Coil
Driver. After assembly, use a multimeter (set to a low ohms range) to
confirm that the metal tab of Darlington transistor Q1 is properly isolated –
ie, it must not be shorted to the case.
This is the view inside the Coil
Driver Module. Note the use of a
separate cable gland for the trigger
input lead. As with the timing
module, this unit must be ruggedly
built to ensure reliability.
74 S
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Fig.17 shows the assembly details
for this small PC board.
Begin by installing the wire link,
then install the 1.2kW and 470W resistors. The 100W 5W resistor can then
go in – it should be mounted all the
way down onto the PC board, so that
it cannot vibrate and break its leads.
Zener diodes ZD1-ZD4 are next
on the list. Be sure to orient them as
shown (two face in one direction and
two in the other, so take care here).
Follow these with transistors Q2 & Q3
and the 1nF ceramic capacitor.
Transistor Q1 is mounted on the
underside of the PC board. This device is installed with its leads bent up
through 90°, so that they go through
matching holes in the PC board from
the track side (ie, the metal tab of the
device faces away from the board –
see photo).
Push the leads through their holes
until the metal tab is exactly 6mm
below the underside of the PC board,
then lightly solder one of the leads.
This will allow you to make any adjustsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.19: the LCD Hand Controller PC board is easy to assemble. Install the three links
first and note that the switches, IC and 10mF electrolytic capacitor are polarised. The
LCD is connected via a 14-way DIL pin header.
The PC board mounts inside the case on four M3 x 12mm spacers and is secured using
M3 screws, nuts and flat washers – see Fig.19. Note how the 10mF capacitor is mounted
on its side, so that it clears the front panel.
ments as necessary before completing
the soldering.
Finally, complete the board assembly by installing PC stakes at the four
external wiring points.
Once completed, the Ignition Coil
Driver PC board can be installed in its
diecast case – see Fig.18. As shown,
the board in mounted on the lid of
the case on 6mm tapped spacers and
secured using M3 x 15mm screws, nuts
and star washers. Transistor Q1 (on the
underside of the board) is fastened to
the lid for heatsinking.
The first step is to mark out all the
mounting holes on the lid. Drill these
holes to 3mm, then carefully deburr
siliconchip.com.au
them using an oversize drill. In particular, make sure that Q1’s mounting
hole is perfectly smooth and free of
any metal swarf that could puncture
its insulating washer.
Note too that Q1’s mounting hole
should be chamfered (use an oversize
drill bit). This is necessary to avoid
sharp edges around the circumference of the hole, to prevent arcing
through the insulating washer (due
to the high voltages present on the
transistor tab).
Once the holes have been “cleaned
up”, fit the four tapped spacers to the
board mounting positions and secure
them using the M3 x 15mm screws.
That done, install transistor Q1’s
Nylon mounting screw and insulating
washer (see photo), then slip the board
into position and secure it using M3
nuts and star washers.
Don’t leave the star washers out
– they are necessary to ensure that
the nuts don’t shake loose due to
vibration.
Transistor Q1 can now be secured
by installing its nut and tightening the
Nylon screw (use a pair of needle-nose
pliers to hold the nut in position while
you “start” the screw). Finally, use
your multimeter (set to a low ohms
range) to confirm that Q1’s metal tab
is indeed electrically isolated from
April 2007 75
Programmable Ignition: Parts List
Programmable Ignition Unit
1 PC board, code 05104071, 103
x 82mm
1 diecast aluminium case, 119 x
93 x 57mm
2 IP68 waterproof cable glands for
4-8mm cable
1 15 x 8 x 6.5mm powdered-iron
toroid (Jaycar LO-1242 or
equivalent) (L1)
3 5mm Ferrite beads (Jaycar LF1250 or equivalent)
1 20MHz crystal (X1)
1 SPDT toggle switch for map
switching (optional)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 DB25 female straight pin PC
mount socket
4 D-connector nut extenders and
two locking nuts and shake
proof washers
1 2-way pin header
1 3-way pin header
2 jumper pin shorting links
2 crimp eyelets
4 6mm tapped Nylon standoffs
1 3mm Nylon washer
2 M3 tapped x 15mm brass
standoffs
1 M3 x 20mm screw
4 M3 x 15mm screws
2 M3 x 9mm screws
8 M3 star washers
5 M3 nuts
10 PC stakes
1 60mm length of 4mm ID heatshrink tubing
4 100mm cable ties
1 2m length red automotive wire
1 2m length black automotive wire
1 2m length green automotive
wire
1 2m length brown automotive
wire
1 2m length yellow automotive
wire
1 150mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
1 600mm length of 0.5mm enamelled copper wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-E/P microcontroller
programmed with ignprgm.hex
(IC1)
1 LM2940CT-5 low-dropout 5V
regulator (REG1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q4)
76 Silicon Chip
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
1 1W Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS1) 13.6V standoff
voltage (Jaycar ZR 1162 or
equivalent)
Capacitors
1 1000mF 16V PC electrolytic
3 100mF 16V PC electrolytics
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 220nF MKT polyester
3 100nF MKT polyester
1 10nF MKT polyester
1 10nF ceramic
1 1nF MKT polyester
2 1nF ceramic
2 22pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1 %)
2 100kW
1 1.8kW
2 47kW
1 1kW
3 10kW
1 470W
2 2.2kW
9 10W
Points and ignition module version
1 100W 5W resistor
Reluctor version
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q5)
1 2.2nF MKT polyester capacitor
1 470pF ceramic capacitor
1 100kW top-adjust multi-turn
trimpot (VR1)
1 47kW 0.25W 1 % resistor
2 10kW 0.25W 1 % resistors
1 1kW 0.25W 1 % resistor
1 PC stake
Hall effect version
1 1kW 0.25W 1 % resistor
1 100W 0.25W 1 % resistor
2 PC stakes
Optical pickup version
1 22kW 0.25W 1 % resistor
1 120W 0.25W 1 % resistor
2 PC stakes
Manifold pressure sensor
alternatives (see text)
1 ASDX015A24R Sensym
(0-15PSI, 0-1bar) Absolute Pressure Transducer
(RS Components Cat No.
2508593055) (Farnell Cat. No.
419-7586); or
1 ASDX030A24R Sensym
(0-30PSI, 0-2bar) Abso-
lute Pressure Transducer
(RS Components Cat No.
2508593077); or
1 Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) sensor – available from
an automotive wreckers. Map
sensors are available from
most Holden, Honda, Toyota
and Subaru models and others
that have an engine management computer. Try to obtain
the wiring connector with the
sensor.
Miscellaneous
Angle brackets for mounting units,
automotive connectors, self-tapping screws etc.
Programming Code
Note: the programming code (ignprgm.hex) for the PIC16F88-E/P
microprocessor featured in this
project will not be released or be
made available on our website.
Authorised kit sellers will supply
programmed microcontrollers as
part of their kits.
For people who do not wish to
build the project from a kit, programmed micros will be available
from SILICON CHIP for $25.00
including postage anywhere within
Australia, or $30.00 by airmail
elsewhere.
Ignition Coil Driver
1 Ignition Coil Driver PC board,
coded 05104072, 40 x 39mm
1 diecast aluminium box 50.8 x
50.8 x 31.8mm (Jaycar HB6050)
1 TO-218 insulating washer rated
at 3kV
2 IP68 waterproof cable glands for
4-8mm cable
4 M3 tapped x 6mm Nylon standoffs
4 M3 x 15 screws
1 M3 x 10mm screw
1 M3 x 6mm Nylon screw
5 M3 nuts
6 3mm star washers
4 PC stakes
1 2m length red automotive wire
1 2m length black automotive wire
1 2m length green automotive wire
1 2m length brown automotive
wire
1 60mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
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1 40mm length of 4mm heatshrink
tubing
Semiconductors
1 MJH10012, BU941P TO-218
high-voltage Darlington transistor (Q1)
2 BC337 transistors (Q2,Q3)
4 75V 3W zener diodes (ZD1ZD4)
Capacitors
1 1nF ceramic capacitor
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1.2kW
1 470W
1 100W 5W wirewound
LCD Hand Controller
1 PC board, code 05104073, 115
x 65mm
1 front panel label (or screen
printed lid) for case
1 plastic case, 120 x 70 x 30mm
with clear lid (Jaycar HB 6082
or equivalent)
1 LCD module (Jaycar QP 5515
or backlit QP 5516)
5 white click action switches
(S1,S2,S5,S7,S9)
4 black click action switches
(S3,S4,S6,S8)
1 SPST micro tactile switch (S10)
1 4017 decade counter (IC1)
1 DIL 14-way pin header
1 DB25 PC mount right angle
socket
1 DB25-pin male to DB25-pin
male 1.8m RS-232 connecting lead (all pins connected)
(Jaycar WC 7502)
4 12mm long M3 tapped plastic
spacers
4 M3 x 6mm CSK screws
2 M3 x 6mm screws
2 M3 x 12mm plastic screws
2 2.5mm thick plastic washers
1 100mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic capacitor
2 10kW 0.25W 1% resistors
1 7-way, 8-way or 9-way 330W
terminating resistor array (8-10
leads). Note: 6-resistors are
used in the circuit and one end
of each resistor connects to the
pin 1 common
1 10kW horizontal trimpot (code
103) (VR1)
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Fig.20: this cross-sectional diagram shows how the PC board for the
LCD Hand Controller is mounted in the case. Note how the top edge
of the LCD module is supported on two M3 flat washers.
the case lid (you should get an opencircuit reading).
The earth supply lead goes to a
crimp eyelet and this is secured to
the inside of the case using an M3 x
10mm screw, star washers and nut.
This screw secures a similar eyelet
and earth wire arrangement on the
outside of the case (this wire goes to
the vehicle chassis).
As shown in Fig.18, the remaining
wires exit via the cable glands. Cover
these leads with heatshrink tubing at
the exit points and note that the signal
lead must pass through its own separate gland, while the ignition coil (-)
lead and the +12V lead pass through
a second gland.
Note that, in addition to the heatshrink, these leads may require packing out with tubing so that they are
tightly clamped by the glands. The
signal lead must at all times be kept
clear of the ignition coil (-) wire to
prevent retriggering as the coil fires.
Be sure to take it out through its own
cable gland and route it well away
from the ignition coil wire – see Fig.18.
Hand Controller
The Hand Controller assembly is
shown in Fig.19.
Start by installing the three wire
links, including the one under the
DB25 socket. That done, solder in the
dual-in-line 14-pin header for the LCD
module, taking care to avoid solder
bridges between adjacent pins.
The SIL resistor array is next. This
will have a pin 1 indication at one end
(usually a dot) and this end must go
towards trimpot VR1. Note that all the
top seven holes must be used, leaving
some free adjacent to VR1 if the array
does not have 10-pins.
IC1 can now be installed, taking care
to ensure it is correctly oriented. That
done, install the two 10kW resistors,
trimpot VR1 and switches S1-S9. Note
that each of these switches must go in
with its flat side to the left – see Fig.19.
We used white and black switches
as indicated on the overlay. S10 is a
smaller pushbutton switch that will
only fit with the correct orientation.
The 10mF capacitor is next on the
list. This must be mounted on its side
to provide clearance when the lid is on
(see photo). Take care with the polarity
of this capacitor.
The DB25 right-angle socket can
now go in. Make sure it is seated flat
against the board and take care to avoid
solder bridges between the pins.
Finally, the LCD module can be
installed by pushing it down onto its
14-pin DIL header. Push it all the way
down until it is correctly seated against
the header, then solder the header pins
to the top of the module’s PC board.
Fig.20 shows how the PC board is
mounted in its case. If you are building a kit, the case will be supplied
pre-drilled and with a screen-printed
front panel. If not, then holes will need
to be drilled in the base of the case for
the four board mounting holes and
a cut-out made to accommodate the
DB25 socket in the side of the case.
In addition, the lid will require holes
for the switches and a clearance slot
for the DB25 socket.
Note that S10’s hole should only
be about 3mm in diameter – ie, just
sufficient for a small probe to actuate
the switch.
If you already have an LCD Hand
Controller as described in “Performance Electronics for Cars”, then this
can also be used with some minor
April 2007 77
Inverting The Firing Sense Of The
Ignition Coil Driver
modifications. That earlier circuit is
identical to the one described here
except that it didn’t include the six
330W terminating resistors.
This means that all you have to do
is add these six resistors between the
relevant pins on the LCD module (pins
4, 6, 11, 12, 13 & 14) and ground. These
will have to be mounted on the track
side of the PC board. The ground connections are best made at pins 7-10 of
the LCD module.
Testing
Fig.21: this modified Ignition Coil Driver circuit can be used to “fire” a
plug when the input signal goes high.
Fig.22: this is the
modified parts
layout. Use a
470W resistor
for R1 for a 5V
input signal and
a 1.2kW resistor
for a 12V input
signal.
T
HE IGNITION COIL DRIVER can be used on its own for other applications; eg, as a replacement coil driver in an existing system. However, in
some cases, it may be necessary to change the “trigger sense” of the circuit.
The standard set-up has the coil “charging” when the input signal is high
and then “firing” a plug on a negative edge input signal. To invert this level
sense, transistor Q3 and the 1.2kW resistor are deleted and a link installed
between the pads normally used for Q3’s base and collector leads.
This effectively bypasses Q3 and the input now drives Q2 via a base
resistor (R1) – see Fig.21. Fig.22 shows the revised parts layout for the PC
board. Use a 470W resistor for R1 when it is driven by a 5V input signal and
a 1.2kW resistor when driven from a 12V signal.
With this arrangement, the coil “charges” when the input signal is low and
“fires” a plug when the signal goes high.
78 Silicon Chip
OK, now for the smoke test, starting
with the Programmable Ignition Timing Module.
First, apply +12V to the supply
input and connect the case to the 0V
rail. That done, use your multimeter to
check that there is 5V (±0.1V) between
pins 14 & 5 of IC1’s socket. If this is
correct, switch off and install IC1,
making sure it is correctly oriented.
Next, connect the RS-232 DB25 lead
between the Programmable Ignition
Timing Module and the LCD Hand
Controller and apply power. You
should be greeted with some characters on the LCD. If there are none, or
if the display is faint or the contrast
is poor, adjust VR1 on the LCD Hand
Controller board for best results.
If there is still no display, recheck
the parts placement on both PC board
assemblies. Check also that the DB25
cable is correct – each pin should be
connected through to the same socket
pin on the opposite end of the lead.
Assuming all is well, the display
shown on the LCD will depend on
the position of jumper shunt LK1.
Remember that the Settings position
will show the settings mode (used
when changing parameters), while
the Timing position will show the
RPM and Load site values against the
timing values.
The initial timing values are all set
to 0° advance. Check that you can
change the values using the switches
on the LCD Hand Controller.
Converting your distributor
Finally, note that if you have a distributor with points, you can convert
it to a Hall effect pick-up instead, to
make it maintenance-free. The details
on how to do this were published in
our January 2006 issue.
That all for this instalment. Next
month, we will describe how the unit
SC
is set up and installed in a car.
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