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SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.20, No.1; January 2007
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
8 Review: Yokogawa DL9000 Series Digital Scopes
Yokogawa’s new digital oscilloscopes offer GHz bandwidth for less money than
the competition and they won’t hog your desktop either – by Peter Smith
11 Biolock: Using Fingerprints To Unlock Doors
No keys, no cards, no PINs . . . but it’s very secure – by Ross Tester
68 WiNRADiO: Marrying A Radio Receiver To A PC
Versatile Temperature
Switch – Page 22.
Leading-edge Australian communications receivers link to a PC for awesome
performance – by Kevin Poulter
76 “Degen” Synthesised HF Communications Receiver
Tiny communications receiver covers the 100kHz to 30MHz MF/HF bands
plus the 88-108MHz FM broadcast band – by Ross Tester
87 The Boony & Beefy Figurines
The battle of the “tashes”. . . what makes them tick – by Leo Simpson
Pro jects To Build
22 A Versatile Temperature Switch
Adjustable design works all the way up to 245°C, has adjustable hysteresis &
can switch on rising or falling temperatures – by John Clarke & Julian Edgar
Intelligent Car Air
Conditioner Controller –
Page 28.
28 Intelligent Car Air-Conditioner Controller
It stops your car’s air-conditioner from sapping engine power when going up
hills or during overtaking. It could even save on fuel costs – by John Clarke
58 A Remote Telltale For Garage Doors
Did you leave the garage door up or down? This unit uses a pair of UHF
wireless modules & has LED indicators to tell you whether the door is fully up,
fully down or somewhere in between – by Jim Rowe
78 Intelligent 12V Charger for SLA & Lead-Acid Batteries
Here’s a cheap & simple battery charger which you can leave connected
without risk of overcharge – by Branko Justic & Ross Tester
Special Columns
39 Circuit Notebook
(1) DRM Down-Converter For 455kHz IF Receivers; (2) Mechanical Soldering
Iron Timer; (3) Toslink Splitter; (4) Telephone Intercom Using Old Handsets;
(5) Versatile Multi-Driver Speaker Connections; (6) 3-Digit LED Stopwatch
44 Serviceman’s Log
It’s no wonder I get aggravated – by the TV Serviceman
84 Salvage It!
Remote Telltale
For Garage
Doors – Page 58.
Intelligent 12V Charger For
SLA & Lead-Acid Batteries –
Page 78.
The multi-purpose tape machine – by Julian Edgar
92 Vintage Radio
The Philips RF5 Stereogram – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
57 Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
90 Product Showcase
97 Ask Silicon Chip
101 Market Centre
January 2007 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Kevin Poulter
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Today’s hospitals are full
of electronics
Just recently I had a short stint in hospital for a
routine procedure and I must say that it was quite
an experience, apart from the inevitable pain and
inconvenience to normal routine. What impressed
me most was the overwhelming presence of electronic
equipment which is used at every stage of treatment.
Of course, as soon as you are admitted, all your records
are brought up on the hospital’s computer system.
Then, as happened with me, you are connected up to
an ECG machine to check the state of your heart and
blood samples taken to check a variety of conditions.
When you are wheeled into the operating room, you are confronted by an incredible array of electronic equipment. I then had a general anaesthetic so I was in no
condition to appreciate all the high technology or ask any questions. Suffice to say
that the electronic equipment is involved at every step, from the continual administering of drugs via a cannula (large needle!), to the monitoring of vital signs to the
operation itself which was effectively done by remote control, via an endoscope
and video camera. Before the operation I facetiously asked whether I could get a
videotape of the procedure after it was finished. I was surprised to learn that indeed
this was possible although it was not normally done to provide a keepsake for the
patient – more as a record for the surgeon, to be used in subsequent care.
Afterwards, in the recovery ward, you become aware of more electronic equipment. There is a machine to control the administration of drugs, saline solution or
whatever and the inevitable machine used to monitor pulse, blood pressure and
blood oxygen levels. Later you are wheeled into your room, accompanied by a drip
machine and whatever plumbing as may be needed during the rest of your hospital
stay. The drip machine is your constant companion and it gurgles away, day and
night. And if you move in such a way as to cut off the flow, it will immediately
begin chiming to let you and any nurse know that it demands attention.
Right through your stay your pulse, blood pressure, blood oxygen levels and
temperature will be regularly checked by a nurse. You are hooked up, the cuff on
your upper arm inflates automatically and then deflates in steps as it records your
diastolic and systolic pressure levels – incredible! Of course many people have one
of these at home these days and so they are no longer a novelty but I still find the
whole process a technical marvel.
After a few days I was released to go home and thereby left all the beeping machines
to get a good night’s sleep. But my overwhelming conclusion was how reliant we
have become on electronics technology and how critical it would be if any of this
equipment failed and was undetected after even a short time. At home, of course,
if any of your electronic equipment fails, it can be annoying and inconvenient.
But if a piece of electronic equipment used in a hospital fails it can be more than
inconvenient, it could be immediately life threatening.
My other conclusion was that ultimately, doctors and nurses are superb technicians, not only in their understanding of an immensely complicated system, the
human body, but also in their understanding and application of electronics technology to many aspects of medicine.
Leo Simpson
PS: by the way, I’m now hale and hearty again!
siliconchip.com.au
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MAILBAG
Valve amplifier
lobbying
Your editorial in the November 2006
issue and the elegant plea by Roger
Lowry for a definitive valve amplifier
circuit has prompted me to write to
you. I have for the last 12 months or
so trawled the internet looking for a
valve amplifier schematic as well as
a source of components.
While there is a wealth of information out there, some of it can be downright misleading. I purchased your
DVD-ROM containing all the RTV&H
articles just so that I could evaluate the
September 1955 Playmaster design as
it is, after all, a derivative of the classic
Mullard 5-20. I have come very close
to building one after ascertaining that
all transformers are available locally
at “reasonable pricing” (Evatco Hammond transformers).
Please resurrect
Murray valve amplifier
In the early 1960s, Cyril Murray
at Sydney University published an
amplifier design that was different –
high performance (distortion of less
than 0.02% under class A1) with no
overall feedback. It could be used
without an output transformer (with
a 500 or 600-ohm speaker).
I made several of these in 1964
and they produced music with
great clarity and dynamic range (we
had no distortion meter). Because
the 600-ohm speaker had so many
windings, the combination was
extremely efficient and a 12W amplifier was capable of filling a small
hall full of people without any sign
of distortion.
If you decide on a new valve
amplifier design, don’t bother with
ultra-linear or single-ended triodes
(there are plenty of good designs
already) but give Murray’s amplifier a good look. Because it arrived
on the scene at the end of the valve
era, it slipped under the radar. It
was so good that it deserves to be
resurrected and I at least would be
very keen to build another, perhaps
4 Silicon Chip
My interest in electronics goes back
to the mid 60s when I started purchasing Electronics Australia. I see that
in July 1967, Leo Simpson wrote the
article on the Playmaster 118 valve
amplifier project, so I would bow to
your experience and can understand
your reluctance to go back to the “bad
old days of valves” when you can improve the on-paper specifications so
much more using transistors.
I also would ask that you use the
Mullard 5-20 as the basis of a new
design. It could be a “mono block”
design, allowing readers to build one
unit at a time. It should use readily
available EL34s and I would agree with
Roger Lowry that we should replace
the EF86 input with a 12AX7.
Leo, I think that your quest for perfection in all things electronic may be
influencing the type of amplifier the
with a bit more power output than
the original.
Murray wrote two articles on the
amplifier in Proceedings of the IRE
(Aust.) in March 1960: p129-133
(measurement) and 134-137 (design). There are a couple of websites
that mention Murray’s amplifier.
I hope you can do something on
this design, as it was a real breakthrough at the time.
Mick Carrick,
via email.
Comment: there were a number of
high-quality output transformerless designs produced in the 1960s
which were essentially single-ended
push-pull circuits with an output
capacitor coupling to a 600-ohm
loudspeaker. We could take the same
option today but instead of using a
high-impedance speaker, we could
perhaps use a quality line output
transformer to drive a conventional
low-impedance loudspeaker.
Incidentally, the 600-ohm speaker
was not efficient just because of the
high number of turns. Speakers in
those days tended to be more efficient anyway because amplifier
output power was usually limited.
average reader would want to or could
afford to build.
Let’s put a peg in the ground and
start with a more modest 20-30W per
channel with an updated “5-20”; perhaps it should be a “4-20” as we would
not require a valve rectifier.
Andrew Prest,
via email.
Nested feedback
plus automatic bias
I would like to congratulate you guys
for even considering a valve amplifier
project and I do agree that the cost can
be very high (transformers, etc). I am
glad Roger Lowry (Mailbag, November
2006) did request one though and I
agree with his recommendations in the
specifications. I have been considering
building such an amplifier for a long
time as well.
Such an amplifier would certainly
require lots of nested negative feedback with perhaps push-pull (parallel) EL34s (6CA7) in the output stage,
a 12AU7 phase-splitter and 12AX7
voltage amplifiers, plus (due to availability) toroidal transformers, etc. It
would also have to be aesthetically
pleasing as well.
This amplifier would also require
some form of automatic bias control
to compensate for valve aging. Such
a design would appeal to many
sensible constructors as the radical
“non-feedback golden-eared fringe”
has coloured many peoples’ opinions,
to the detriment of valve amplifiers
in general.
Greg Johnson,
Cooma, NSW.
Is .01% THD
too low?
Thanks for airing your thoughts
Leo, in the Publisher’s Letter in the
November 2006 issue, on the design of
a valve amplifier. I can see your point
siliconchip.com.au
Please don’t do
a valve amplifier
Please, please, don’t sacrifice the
interests of the vast majority of your
subscribers and readers to waste the
limited resources of Australia’s only
remaining general electronics magazine on designing and developing a
“high-end” valve amplifier.
First, as you correctly anticipate,
extremely few among your readers
would build it. However, that alone
is not reason enough to dump the
idea. The BIG reason to dump the
idea is that the world of audio electronics is currently saturated with
valve amplifier designs.
Those few readers who genuinely intend to spend the vast
sums required to experience the
valve sound have many sources
for excellent valve designs. Apart
from all the information available
on the internet, there is the current
US publication “Audio Express”
(audioXpress.com) which has an
innovative valve amplifier project
(up to 250 watts RMS, believe it or
not) in every issue. From the same
publisher came the widely known
and highly regarded “Glass Audio”,
now discontinued but back issues
are available on CD from their
that there is little value in putting in
a lot of time and effort into something
that would possibly not have a lot of
appeal and your request for a show of
hands to see if it is worthwhile is a
very good idea.
I have made a few amplifiers over
the past six years, my first being the
amplifier designed by Mr Tean Tan
in Electronics Australia in the Sept/
Oct 1992 issues. I and others who
have listened to it are impressed with
its performance. This design is very
quiet with just a little hiss, only noticeable with your ear up against the
loudspeaker.
My second effort was the Playmaster
No.5, described in Radio TV & Hobbies
in June 1952, using 2A3 valves. Those
2A3 valves look very impressive. This
amplifier also sounds very good but is
a little noisier than the previous unit.
The last unit I built was the Mudlark design, featured in the August &
September 2005 issues of SILICON CHIP.
siliconchip.com.au
website at audioXpress.com. Every
imaginable valve audio amplifier,
including many with detailed construction articles, is also available
through this same website.
I am not anti-valve or anti-analog.
I own a number of valve amplifiers
which I do listen to from time to
time. I have a very large collection
of LPs and a large collection of
turntables.
So please, dear Editor, give us
a class-A high-end, 50-60W per
channel solid-state amplifier to
showcase the genius of SILICON
CHIP’s audio designers. Apart from
its usefulness as a hyper-low distortion general amplifier for those who
really appreciate the very best, it
would be brilliant for driving highend tweeters and midrange drivers in higher-power multi-amped
systems with electronic crossovers.
Come on all you sensible SILICON
CHIP subscribers and readers who
are serious music lovers, write to
the Editor to stop this crazy push for
more valve audio amplifier designs
in SILICON CHIP when the world of
DIY audio is already awash with
them.
Otto S. Hoolhorst,
Brisbane, Qld.
Leo – on your comments regarding
distortion of 0.01%: is this level of
distortion discernible from 0.1%? Can
we really hear that difference? I think
the rest of your specifications would
be easily achievable.
Please accept this email as a definite
YES for a new project.
Keith Columbine,
via email.
Comment: perhaps we are setting the
bar a bit high by mentioning .01% but
we also feel that the amplifier should
not degrade the signal quality from
a CD player, etc. Is such a low figure
discernible? Yes, mainly because such
a low figure for harmonic distortion
also means very low intermodulation
distortion.
Edison’s
alkaline battery
Edison’s “alkaline battery” is nowadays generally called the nickel-iron
cell. These rugged batteries seemingly
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
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32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
January 2007 5
Mailbag: continued
trical systems, the lead-acid cell is
simply the only choice.
Bear Stanley,
Thereon, Qld.
Comment: older readers will recognise
N-I cells as NiFe cells.
Fake battery-less torch
My wife recently returned from
the local $2 shop with a new emergency torch for the car. This was the
“Environment-protective torch for
the 21st century”. It claimed that
it was to be used for emergency
purposes because it didn’t rely on
batteries – simply shake the torch
and it would charge it.
I could see what appeared to be
a magnet that would slide through
a coil in the body of the torch and
a small circuit board under the
switch. Intrigued about how efficient the torch was, I disassembled
it to see what was inside.
Surprise, surprise! The white
high-intensity LED was connected
via the switch to two CR2016 3V
lithium coin cells. The ends of
the coil were un-terminated; just
wrapped around the batteries.
There were no components on the
last forever – old ex-railroad N-I cells
can be easily restored to use, even after
a hundred years of sitting idle.
The thing not mentioned in your
article was that the N-I cell is one
of the least efficient of all wet cell
designs- requiring from 1.4 to 1.5
times the delivered Ah to recharge.
Even a nickel-cadmium (wet) cell
only requires 1.25 times capacity to
Hydrogen booster is a con
circuit board and the “magnet” was
just a lump of iron! The whole thing
is a technology fake.
So don’t be taken in by these
torches, especially if you think
it’s always going to work in an
emergency. There is, however an
upside if you want a couple of
cheap CR2016 lithium cells and a
high-intensity white LED for around
four to five dollars.
Roger Forsey,
Southbank, Vic.
recharge. On the other hand, a welldesigned modern lead-acid cell, such
as the sealed Sonnenschein gel/SLA
will require only 1.05 times delivered
capacity to fully recharge.
Heavy though it is, so far there is
no competition in efficiency to the
lead-acid cell; nothing else even comes
close. In the most critical uses, like
prime movers and alternative elec-
I read the letter from J. S., of Geelong (Ask SILICON CHIP, October 2006)
with amusement. I am a fully qualified
auto electrician with 20 years’ experience. The hydrogen booster is typical
of those schemes to extract as much
money as possible from those who
don’t understand how things work!
My other favourite is the two shaped
magnets (which look not unlike the
ferrite beads we use to prevent RF
interference) which are clamped onto
the fuel line of the vehicle and which
promise to increase the magnetic flux
and so increase the power output of the
fuel flowing through the pipe. Again,
nothing but a con!
Dave Sargent,
via email.
Hydrogen is
not a catalyst
I have been buying your magazine
for a number of years and think you
do a really good job. You manage to
research and compile an extremely
wide field so as to keep things interesting without repeating yourselves. The
circuit diagrams and explanations you
publish are informative and best of all
easy to follow.
Home to over
180,000 products
Where all the leading brands live
GO TO
6 Silicon Chip
www.rsaustralia.com
RS213SC
International
Rectifier
100%C, 50%M.
Panasonic 4col.
Reliable • Simple
siliconchip.com.au
SMD soldering
is more convenient
The UHF prescaler in the October
2006 issue is much appreciated. I
have recently changed to SMD as
much as possible for home projects,
because they are more convenient
than leaded components. Bending
leads, stuffing rows of them through
pairs of holes, soldering, then finding
the best approach angles for clipping
a forest of leads was a pain.
SMD ICs are just so fast to solder; eg, with a 44-pin PLCC the
steps are:
(a) Apply a run of no-clean gel flux,
by syringe, along the four rows of
pads.
(b) Align the chip with the pads and
tack-solder two diagonally opposite
leads.
(c) Fill the (nib-like) hollow of a
Weller C-0551-6 or equivalent iron
tip with solder and wipe over the
pins of one side. Eleven pins on
0.8mm pitch can be soldered in one
second!
(d) Repeat for the other three sides.
On 1.27mm and 0.8mm pitch devices, there’s rarely need for a pin to
be cleaned up. There are claims of
success on 0.5mm pitch leads but I
From the standard set in your publication I will now assume your staff
are able to differentiate between fact
and opinion. Now if we can refer to
“Ask Silicon Chip” October 2006 letter
from (J.S., Geelong, Vic) on a hydrogen
booster. How much of your answer is
fact and how much is opinion?
Here is a quote from Roy McAlister,
president of the (American Hydrogen
Association: “In fact, introducing a
small amount of hydrogen, two to
five percent, into internal combustion
engines that currently run off gasoline, diesel or natural gas increases
the efficiency, improves mileage and
reduces pollutants quite remarkably”.
Roy is not the only one respected
in the scientific community who
has been published expounding the
virtues of “hydrogen enrichment of
fossil fuels”.
Your answer to the aforementioned
letter seemed to revolve around the
efficiency of the process - good thinking on your part but perhaps not the
siliconchip.com.au
haven’t tried. Similarly, it’ll be interesting to try it on J-leaded devices
like IC3 in the UHF prescaler.
There’s also an easy way to solder
chip resistors and capacitors: take a
syringe of solder paste and squirt a
little on one pad for each component.
Place the components, allowing the
paste to help hold them in place.
Then hold down each component in
turn with tweezers while melting the
solder paste. Finally, solder the other
ends. Reverting to ordinary solder is
quicker at this point.
Some hobbyists use toaster ovens
or frying pans to solder whole boards
at a time but there are serious risks
of component damage and rupture
of the PC board vias (barrel separation) due to differential expansion.
Bottom preheat to 150°C followed by
hot air on top would be safer.
My 50-year-old eyes benefit
greatly from a magnifier lamp. While
electronics suppliers have them,
a large one from a hardware store
serves very well. For handling, skidding the board around on a cheap
conductive mat works OK for me,
when doing just a couple of boards.
Erik Christiansen,
via email.
whole story. The principle of hydrogen
enrichment is to use hydrogen as a
catalyst.
In a nutshell, this quote from a book
by Michael A. Peavey, page 175: “This
is because hydrogen breaks down larger hydrocarbon molecules, creating
a larger surface-to-volume ratio and
allowing oxygen to more completely
burn the components”. You are right
in assuming the process of dissociation
is not 100% but the point is that it
makes the fuel burn faster and cleaner
(recognised scientific fact).
Eric Basill,
via email.
Comment: Sorry Eric, anyone who
thinks hydrogen is a catalyst is wrong.
By definition, a catalyst is a substance
which accelerates a chemical reaction
without itself being consumed by that
reaction. Nor does hydrogen break
down hydrocarbon molecules or lead
to more complete combustion of hydrocarbons. You might have seen it in
SC
a book but it is mumbo-jumbo.
Want a real speed
controller kit?
If you need to control
12 or 24 volt DC
motors and
want a
speed
controller
that will easily
handle 30 amps,
then this is the kit for you.
This controller allows you to vary the
speed of DC motors from 0 to 100%. It
is also ideal for controlling loads such
as incandescent/halogen lamps and
heating elements.
This kit makes a great controller for
use on small electric vehicle projects,
such as electrically assisted bikes and
go-carts. We have tested it to over 30
amps without problems—it barely gets
warm! Item code: SPEEDCON.
We also have solar maximiser kits,
Luxeon LEDs, and lots of interesting
products and publications.
Go to shop.ata.org.au or call
us on (03)9639 1500.
Serial-to-TCP/IP
Converters
from
TRUSYS
Trusys BF-430 & BF-450 universal serial device
servers allow your industrial serial devices –
such as PLCs, flow meters, gas meters, CNC
machines and biometric identification card
readers – to be monitored from your network.
They support web management & firmware
upgrade, while PPPoE & DDNS protocol allows
Internet connection without static IP. Event
alarm trigger is supported using e-mail & SMS
(Short Message Service) to do real-time
management for your system.
Applications:
] Factory automation ] Hospital automation
] PLC instrument control ] Access control
and security ] Time recording system
For more information, call, fax,
email or visit our website!
TRUSYS
95 McCanns Rd Mt Duneed Vic 3216
Tel: 0428 282 222 Fax: 03 5264 1275
Email: sales<at>trusys.com.au
www.trusys.com.au
January 2007 7
Yokogawa’s 10th
generation digital
oscilloscopes offer
GHz bandwidth for
less money than the
competition – and
they won’t hog your
desktop, either!
By PETER SMITH
Yokogawa signalXplorer DL9000
Series Digital Oscilloscopes
T
HE RECENTLY released DL9000
series is the latest in compact
digital oscilloscopes from Yokogawa,
boasting sampling rates of up to
10GS/s (gigasamples per second) at
bandwidths of 1-1.5GHz. According
to Yokogawa, conventional products
in this bandwidth range have been
desktop-sized and quite expensive.
Not so the DL9000 series, which packs
an impressive array of features into a
package measuring 18cm deep and
weighing in at only 6.5kg.
All four models in the series have
four input channels and 213mm highresolution colour LCDs. The DL9140
& DL9140L feature an analog bandwidth of 1GHz with a maximum
sampling rate of 5GS/s (2-channel
mode) or 2.5GS/s (4-channel mode).
8 Silicon Chip
The DL9240 & DL9240L models extend the bandwidth to 1.5GHz and
increase the maximum sampling rate
to 10GS/s (2-channel mode) or 5GS/s
(4-channel mode).
Record length for the DL9140
& DL9240 is 2.5M words/channel
maximum, whereas the “L” suffixed
versions stretch this to a whopping
6.25M words/channel. A custom signal-processing engine pumps data into
memory at a maximum effective rate
of 2.5 million waveforms per second
per channel on the 500ps/div range.
First look
We test-drove the DL9140 model.
We were immediately impressed
with the large colour XGA (1024×768
pixels) display, which is bright and
razor sharp and would be difficult
to better.
Considering its quadruple inputs
and raft of measurement options, the
front panel is relatively uncluttered
and doesn’t look intimidating. As with
all instruments of this complexity,
selections are made and parameters
altered via a hierarchical, “soft-key”
menu system.
Pressing a “top level” function key
in the blue-paneled area brings up the
relevant on-screen soft menu, which
appears as a single bar down the right
side of the display to align with the
column of unmarked selection keys.
The soft menus rarely extend beyond
two levels, so once familiar with the
instrument’s capabilities, it’s surprising easy to drive.
siliconchip.com.au
Rotary dials provide for rapid vertical sensitivity and horizontal timebase
changes, while the function of the large
dial (at panel top) and its associated
navigation keys vary according to the
last selected menu.
A built-in context-sensitive help
system is an indispensable part of
the overall package. Can’t remember
how the options in the “Accumulate”
menu work? Easy, just press the HELP
button followed by the ACCUM button to bring up the relevant page of
the manual!
Going deep
Deep memory and high-speed sampling coupled with very low latency
are undoubtedly the DL9000 series’
strongest points. When record length
is less than memory depth, acquisition
memory is divided into partitions.
Successive records are captured into
these partitions (called history memory) with very low latency.
In the fastest acquisition mode, up
to 1600 records can be captured into
history memory with a dead time of
only 400ns between acquisitions.
Repetitive waveforms can be acquired
using the slower accumulate mode,
which captures up to 2000 records.
Waveforms in history memory can
be examined individually, or the sequence replayed in forward or reverse
direction at variable speed. A conditional search function allows you to
track down signal events based on
measurement limits, which can even
be correlated between channels.
Acquired waveforms can be accumulated over a user-defined period
and displayed on-screen using an
intensity or colour-grading scheme
(called “Dot Density Display”). This
works in real time or can be applied
retrospectively to history memory. The
result is an immediate indication of the
frequency and signal-to-noise ratio of
signal perturbations.
Finding the needle
All digital scopes these days include “zoom” capabilities to allow
faster review and analysis of selected
portions of acquisition memory after
signal capture. In zoom mode, the
display divides horizontally to include a second expanded view of a
portion of the waveform selected in
the normal view.
The zoom window can be manually
scrolled through acquisition memory
siliconchip.com.au
One of the DL9000 series’ many useful features is its easy-to-drive zoom mode
with search. Zoom mode can be brought to bear on history memory (ie, after
signal capture) and will help to find that waveform anomaly in quick time. In
this example, the “runt” pulse was easy to spot in the normal waveform display
but of course this won’t always be the case!
(including history memory) using the
large rotary knob and various soft
controls. Importantly, Yokogawa have
included a series of powerful search
options that can help to quickly pinpoint the area of interest.
Advanced analyses
Two additional panes can be opened
beneath the normal oscilloscope traces
for display of analysis waveforms or
XY waveforms.
The histogram and trend analysis
features are of particular interest
and offer a whole new perspective
on signal visualisation. For example,
signal jitter can be revealed using a
time histogram, whereas noise on DC
signals can be revealed using a voltage histogram. Trend analysis would
typically be used to view the fluctuations of a selected parameter over the
long term.
Alternatively, the analysis panes
can display FFT (Fast-Fourier Transform) calculated waveforms of up to
250k points each using the chosen
source channel, centre frequency and
frequency span.
Math & filters
In addition to the four input channel traces, up to eight math traces can
be defined and displayed. Functions
include filtering, addition, subtraction,
integration, “edge count” and “rotary
count”. Basic arithmetic functions are
performed in hardware and so the
results can be displayed in real time.
200MHz & 20MHz analog low-pass
filters and a series of selectable digital low-pass filters are also available
and again, these operate in real time
so they don’t slow down the signal
acquisition rate.
If the inbuilt math functions don’t
do what you want, then the optional
“MATLAB tool kit” software can be
used to control your scope from within
MATLAB or transfer data to MATLAB
via the GPIB, USB or Ethernet interfaces.
Statistics & other measurements
A comprehensive list of signal
measurements can be applied to any
scope trace. This includes a raft of
statistical functions such as maximum, minimum, average, standard
deviation, etc.
Statistics can be generated on a
continual, cycle or historical basis
and displayed in the waveform area
or at the right side of the screen if the
soft-key menu is inactive.
Other goodies
Go/No Go testing can be set up using
January 2007 9
DL9000 Series Highlights
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Input channels: 4
Analog bandwidth: 1GHz (DL9140/DL9140L); 1.5GHz (DL9240/
DL9240L)
Sampling rate (max): 5 GS/s (2 channels); 2.5 GS/s (4 channels,
DL9140/DL9140L); 10 GS/s (2 channels); 5 GS/s (4 channels, DL9240/
DL9240L)
Record length (max): 2.5 M word/channel (DL9140/DL9240); 6.25 M
word/channel (DL9140L/DL9240L)
Fast acquisition rate: 2.5M waveforms/s/ch (max)
Vertical sensitivity: 2mV/div
Vertical resolution: 8-bit
Sweep sensitivity (max): 500ps/div
History memory function: Review & analyse up to 2000 of the most
recent waveforms
Compact & lightweight: 180mm depth, 6.5kg weight.
for those that wish to develop custom remote control applications or
plug-ins.
Applications
So where would you use a scope
with this level of performance? Here’s
a short list of applications suggested
by Yokogawa:
• Design and evaluation of devices
embedded in cellular phones, flatscreen televisions, etc.
• Confirming the operation of devices
such as FPGAs (Field-Programmable
Gate Arrays) and ASICs (ApplicationSpecific Integrated Circuits).
• Observation of control signals from
microcontrollers and the like, as well
as debugging of control firmware.
• Troubleshooting and evaluation of
communications bus data.
Last word
a range of user-defined rules, with the
results signalled via a TTL-compatible
output at the rear of the box. More
complex tests can be constructed using “masks” and the free Mask Editor
software.
Specialised data analysis is also
available for the I2C and SPI data buses
by ordering the “/F5” option with the
scope. This option provides sophisticated triggering on bus states, device
addresses, etc, and includes search
capabilities.
able work, the optional internal 30GB
HDD would be a good choice.
A printer, mouse and keyboard can
also be connected to the front-panel
USB ports. The keyboard could be
useful for file naming and waveform
annotation when working with large
sets of data, although we didn’t try this
configuration.
Using built-in functions, an optional Ethernet interface allows data
to be stored and waveforms printed
on a network running file and printer
sharing. An optional built-in thermal
printer is available for portable work.
Direct PC connectivity is also possible via a third USB port on the rear of
the unit, which is supplied as standard
equipment. However, to control the
instrument from your PC you’ll need
to purchase the optional “Xviewer”
software utility.
Xviewer also allows you to view
saved waveform data and convert
binary data to ASCII for use in other
applications. A math edition of this
software can calculate up to 10 additional waveforms based on saved data
and do FFT calculations using up to
two million points.
A free DLL library is available
The triggering options for these
instruments are extremely comprehensive and command their own 22-page
document – which, by the way, can
be downloaded from the Yokogawa
website at www.yokogawa.com/tm
for those interested. We’re not even
going to attempt to describe them in
this short review!
Product flyers can be obtained from
the abovementioned website. Unfortunately, it seems that it’s not possible to
download a copy of the user’s manual
unless you already own the product.
You’ll find the people at Trio Smartcal (the Australian distributors) much
more obliging. Check out their website
at www.trioelectrix.com.au or phone
1300 853 407 to organise a demonstration.
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
REAL
VALUE
AT
Connectivity
Getting data in and out of early
digital scopes used to be problematic,
with floppy drives sometimes being
the only option. Thankfully, diskettes
have gone the way of the dinosaur
and in the case of the DL9000 series,
been replaced with dual up-front USB
connectors for flash memory as well as
dual PCMCIA slots for memory/hard
disk drive connection.
A total of 32MB of flash memory
is available internally for storing
waveforms and front-panel settings.
An external USB flash memory dongle will instantly improve this rather
small offering. For heavy-duty port-
Prices
Prices for the DL9140 in basic
form start at under $15,000 + GST.
All models are supplied with four
500MHz passive probes. To utilise the
full 1.5GHz bandwidth, you’ll need
to order one or more of the optional
2.5GHz active probes. 500MHz differential and 100MHz current probes are
SC
also offered as optional extras.
Keep your copies safe with these handy binders.
$13.95
PLUS P
&
P
Available Aust, only. Price: $A13.95 plus $7 p&p per order (includes GST). Just fill in
and mail the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9939 2648; or call (02) 9939
3295 and quote your credit card number.
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Using fingerprints
to unlock doors . . .
BioLock
No keys, no cards, no pins
. . . but it’s very secure!
H
ave you ever fumbled for keys
in the dark to open the front
door? Ever lost your keys and
had to scramble around finding “the
spare”, getting a new one cut, etc
etc? Ever locked your keys inside the
house? Ever had your keys stolen and
thought the worst?
None of these need ever happen
again if you fit a Biolock – because you
won’t even have a key to fumble, lose,
have stolen or locked inside!
“So what’s gonna keep the bad guys
out,” you’re thinking. No key means no
lock, right? No lock means no security,
right?
Actually, wrong on both counts! The
siliconchip.com.au
idea is to get rid of that old-fashioned
(and in many cases low security) lock
and replace it with something that
will let you (or anyone else you allow)
in and keep everyone else out – with
excellent security,
A potted history of locks
The oldest known lock, estimated
to be 4,000 years old, was found by
archeologists in the Khorsabad palace
ruins near Nineveh. It was a forerunner to a pin tumbler type of lock and
a common Egyptian lock for the time.
by Ross Tester
This lock worked using a large wooden
bolt to secure a door, which had a slot
with several holes in its upper surface.
The holes were filled with wooden
pegs that prevented the bolt from being opened.
The first serious attempt to improve
the security of the lock was made in
1778 in England, when Robert Barron patented a double-acting tumbler
lock. Then in 1784, Joseph Bramah
patented the safety lock. Bramah’s lock
was considered unpickable.
A name almost synonymous with
locks, Linus Yale Sr, invented a pintumbler lock in 1848.
His son, Linus Yale Jr, improved
January 2007 11
Here’s what you get
in the Biolock kit:
the Biolock scanner
(bottom right, with its
mounting plate below);
the electric strike immediately above that and
plugpack power supply
above that again; secure
I/O board in the centre
with its surface-mounting
case at left, the cabling
you will need at the top
of the picture, rawl plugs
and screws and finally, the
mounting and setting-up
instructions. The whole lot
retails for less than $800.
upon his lock using a smaller, flat key
with serrated edges that is the basis
of modern pin-tumbler locks and also
patented a cylinder pin-tumbler lock
(the basic lock as we know it today) in
1861. Yale further invented the modern
combination lock in 1862.
(From “The History of Locks” [http://
inventors.about.com/library/inventors/bllock.htm])
As you can see, locks as we know
them have been around for quite a
while. And for just as long, crooks
have been trying to defe at them –
they pick them, they force them, they
jemmy them, they cut them out of the
door (according to the movies, almost
always with a sub-machine gun!), they
steal keys, they force people with keys
to open them . . .
Hence the adage, “locks are only to
12 Silicon Chip
keep honest people out”.
Don’t you think it’s about time things
changed a little, putting the odds back
in the honest people’s favour? If, at
the same time, we were able to dramatically increase convenience and
flexibility, that would be a real bonus.
which is separate to “the lock” itself
and is fitted to the door jamb or post.
We specifically mention these two
components because they are essential
to the operation of this electronic system. There are other parts, of course but
are not important to this story.
Parts of a lock
Enter the Biolock
When we think of “a lock” we generally think of a lot more than what is
actually the lock. In fact, the lock is
only a small part of “the lock” – albeit
a very important part. It’s the bit which
prevents or allows (depending on how
it is set) the device as a whole from
operating.
Other parts of “the lock” to note are
the bolt – the bit that moves in and
out of the door, engaging the strike
(sometimes known as a latch plate),
Back in our January 2001 issue , we
introduced the subject of biorecognition – checking to see if you really is
you.
At the end of the article, author Jon
Reid said “Finger scanning equipment
can be purchased commercially for
approximately $2000 to $3000 . . .”
We are very pleased to say that five
years on, finger scanning equipment
can be purchased for way less.
In fact, Jon Reid’s company, Bisiliconchip.com.au
Here’s the electric strike which
replaces the strike currently
fitted into the door jamb. Inset
top left is the actual “strike”
– at rest, (ie, unpowered), the
vertical blade (arrowed) is
locked in position so it can
capture the bolt in the lock,
thereby locking the door.
When power is applied, this
blade is free to move so a pull
on the door will allow the bolt
to push the blade out of the
way, thus opening the door.
orecognition Systems, has available a
complete finger scanning kit to install
in any home, office, factory, club . . .
and electronically control who can
come in and who can’t . . . for less
than $800.
It’s called the Biolock, and that’s
the system we are looking at in detail
here.
For a business with access control
problems, $800 is chicken feed, especially when you consider what you
get and the control it gives (they’d
probably spend that much in keys!).
However, $800 is still significant for
the average homeowner.
But have you priced having a decent
lock installation recently?
We have: SILICON CHIP moved offices
last year! The bill was over $400 for a
single door, quality double deadlatch
and ten keys – so all of a sudden a
Biolock kit, with all of its advantages,
isn’t exactly over-the-top!
The best part of all is that the Biolock kit is very easy to install because
it uses the existing lock – the only
change you have to make is to install
is the electric “strike” in place of the
current one.
Eh? Use the existing lock?
Wait a minute! Doesn’t that defeat
the whole purpose? Why install a
Biolock and leave the existing lock
in place?
The answer actually highlights some
of the features of the Biolock. First, the
system is failsafe. In an emergency,
instant egress is possible by using the
existing handle. And in the event of
a computer or hardware failure, or
blackout (which would disable the
electric strike), a key can be used to
siliconchip.com.au
open the door.
Second, in the event of an injury
which precludes someone placing their
finger on the scanner (a broken hand/
arm in full plaster, perhaps?), they can
still be given keys to enter/exit in the
traditional way.
Third, if you happen to have a building owned by someone else and it has
a master key system, there is often a
condition of the lease or occupancy
that the top-level keyholder has access
via a grand master key, which may be
used for inspection, maintenance, etc.
Clearly it is difficult, if not impossible,
to arrange scanning each person who
may at some time require access – so
their master key will still work.
We’re sure you’ll think of other
reasons why you would still want traditional (keyed) access – the Biolock
gives you the best of both worlds.
Keyless/cardless/pinless
operation
Having said all that, the Biolock is
intended for virtually keyless operation. Automatically, that eliminates the
problems of lost keys (and security
keys, as used by a company, cost a
lot more to replace than your average
house key!). It also stops key and/or
card-swapping between keyholders
and/or those who you do not want to
have a right to enter.
Even in a “secure” system such as a
building with RFID, swipe cards, keypads/pins, etc, swapping can be a major
problem for building management – especially in an access-controlled system
with various keys, cards etc controlling
which doors can be entered.
Because the Biolock system doesn’t
have a keypad, card reader, RFID
reader, etc, this simply cannot happen.
The only way an intruder can enter is
to “tailgate” a legitimate user – and
that’s a problem with every controlled
entry system except those with singleperson turnstiles or airlocks (or armed
guards!).
As you might have guessed from the
above, Biolocks can be installed on
every external door and on any internal door requiring access control and
are (or can be) all linked to a common
computer system.
Reading the fingerprint
It’s the stuff of spy movies and
thriller TV series; a crook manages to
capture a fingerprint of a legitimate
user and then makes a (usually latex)
“cast” of it, either using that in fingerprint recognition systems or leaving
“prints” around to drop the unfortunate
right in it.
Maybe, one day, that will be possible but the Biolock goes a long, long
way to ensure it won’t be today (or
tomorrow).
The fingerprint is not actually read
on the surface of the skin but deep
down in the epedermis. That means
that surface cuts and scratches won’t
lock you out of the system; by the same
token it also means that attempts to
The old and the new: the
original “strike” at left (just
a hole cut in the steel frame!)
with the new strike position
marked out and the electric
strike installed in the door
jamb, along with the old strike
it replaced. It is significantly
larger and being fitted into
a steel-frame door, required
a fair bit of “surgery” to the
jamb. Fortunately, it’s hidden
once the door closes (and I
fully intend to fix up the rough
edges. One day. Manana.
Maybe).
January 2007 13
beat it using copies or fakes will be
unsuccessful.
That other, rather more gruesome
thriller movie “method” – cutting off
someone’s finger so you have the “real
thing” – is also highly unlikely to succeed, given the fact that there would be
no blood flow in the finger concerned.
Knowing that, I’m sure you can sleep
a lot easier at night!
Note that the Biolock system does
not store fingerprints per se – at least
not in any retreivable format. That
would contravene privacy laws. Instead, the system compares the digital
information of a known fingerprint
scan with that obtained at the time
entry is required.
The system in detail
The Biolock system has three major
components:
(1) The Biolock scanner
This small (75 x 105 x 27mm) waterproof (IP65) unit is designed to fix on
a wall or jamb close to the entry point.
As far as the user is concerned, it has
just two parts – a scanner “window”
about 10mm square and three LEDs to
show system status.
A blue LED indicates the sensor is
ready to read a fingerprint, a green
LED shows identity acceptance while
a red LED shows identity rejection.
Inside the scanner, there is of course
the electronics to make it all happen.
(2) The door strike
The strike is the part of the lock
which mounts on the door jamb and
“catches” the bolt, locking the door.
Every door with any sort of lock or
catch has a strike – in most cases it
has an angled plate which the springloaded bolt rides up as the door closes
and a recess which catches the bolt as
it springs back out, holding the door
closed.
The closed door might be automatically locked if it has that type of lock
mechanism; it might require manual
locking (eg, with a snib) or it may not
have a lock at all but can be opened by
simply turning a handle (which pulls
the bolt back into the lock/door).
The electric door strike in the Biolock system is, for all intents and
purposes, exactly the same as a bogstandard strike in its normal (unpowered) state -hence the ability for the
system to use the existing door lock in
the normal way.
But when it is powered, a solenoid
pulls in releasing the door strike so it
14 Silicon Chip
The Biolock unit can be installed in any convenient location, as long as the
surface is pretty flat (or packed out to be flat). Naturally, it should be close to
the door being controlled. The cable goes through the wall so security of the
system is maintained.
can move out of the way – it’s actually
pushed out of the way by the bolt. So
if the strike is energised and the door
is pulled, it will open, even if the bolt
itself is locked closed.
(3) The computer and secure I/O
interface
A computer is required to run the
Biolock – it stores the information
on legitimate users and also, with
the software included in the system,
enables a vast amount of information
to be stored about entry and egress, by
whom, and so on.
It does this over a standard TCP/IP
network and you can set the address
anywhere between 192.168.0.1 and
192.168.0.254 (excluding .210). So if
you already have a computer network
set up, even a very big one, you can
find an address for the Biolock.
The interface is a small PC board
which is used to control secure opening and closing of electric strikes and
access control for doors. It includes
a relay to handle the fairly heavy
(~800mA) current demand of the strike.
Included in the kit is a small (65 x
37 x 25mm) wall-mounting ABS case
which the interface board fits into
perfectly, along with the required interface cables.
Installation
Arguably the hardest part of installation will be the electric strike, because
it is significantly larger than any “ordinary” strike you are likely to see.
With a traditional wooden door jamb,
though, it’s only a matter of marking
out and cutting to the depth required,
as you would for the traditional type
you’re replacing.
The main thing to watch is that the
strike blade lines up with the edge
of the current strike recess, both in
the vertical and horizontal planes. Of
course, if your door currently rattles
in the wind or has to be slammed to
close, you could use this opportunity
to slightly adjust the strike position
for a better fit.
If your is outward-opening, the strike
will have to be installed upside down
– but that’s not a big deal.
Steel-frame doors, as are much more
commonly used in industrial/commercial buildings and flats/units, are
a bit more of a dilemma. The chances
are very high that you will need an
angle grinder and a selection of tools
to perform surgery on the door frame
to fit the strike.
Indeed, many steel-frames are also
filled with concrete so you may even
need to cold-chisel some of that away
and perhaps fit the strike into the concrete with rawl plugs.
Don’t forget that you need to run
the “speaker wire” figure-8 cable to
the strike. The wires are polarised so
you can work out which is positive and
negative at the other end (red is +!).
The wires connect to the strike via a
pair of screw terminals. Don’t take the
pre-fitted diode out – it protects the
circuitry from the spike generated as
the solenoid is released.
The Scanner
This obviously needs to go close to
the door in question but doesn’t have
to be right up on it. Choose a location
that is preferably out of the weather
(even though the Biolock scanner is
IP65 rated, so it will stand direct rain
and even a low-pressure hose).
For security, the wiring should go
siliconchip.com.au
straight through the wall or surface to
which it is attached so you will also
need to take that into account.
The wall or surface also needs to be
flat – if you must, you can pack out so
the bracket which holds the scanner is
flat. The bracket is mounted first, then
the scanner attaches to the bracket.
If it seems we are glossing over this
section, we are: the instructions with
the Biolock are much more detailed
(even though they start with the scanner then fit the strike!).
The Secure I/O
This is a small PC board which
comes with a surface-mounting ABS
box, designed to mount in any convenient position inside the building.
Installation here is as simple as
connecting the mounting the box, connecting the various (supplied) cables to
the PC board and placing it inside the
box. Finally, it is all screwed together
and hardware installation is virtually
complete.
Connecting it all up
We mentioned before that the system requires a computer (and a TCP/
IP computer network) to operate. That
network can be as simple as the Biolock, computer (with network card –
and they are dirt cheap these days) and
connecting cat5 cable - or it can operate
over an already-installed network.
If you have an existing network
with a convenient RJ45 socket, you’re
laughing. Just plug in the cable from
the secure I/O board.
We mentioned before that it must
be configured to an IP address in the
range 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.254,
excepting 192.168.0.210 (which is the
Biolock’s own IP address).
Once again, the instructions contain
all the information you’re going to need
to get the Biolock up and running on
your system.
BioKey software
Included with the kit is a CD-ROM
containing BioKey software. This is
not only the “driving” software for the
system, it’s also the way you “enrol”
legitimate users and set up the access
rules for them and the building.
The system tells you when you have
an acceptable reading as new users are
“enrolled”; otherwise an error will be
flagged and a new reading taken.
In a multiple Biolock system, as
each Biolock has its own IP address
it can be set up individually, allowing
or denying access as required for that
particular door. You can also set up
times that certain individuals can access areas (eg, deny access after hours
or at weekends).
The software also allows you set the
level of security from very weak (where
it will give a false acceptance 1 time in
5, through to very strong – 1 time in
100,000. There are trade-offs in taking
too high a level are that legitimate users
may experience too many rejections.
Default level (normal) is 1 in 500.
You have wireless?
Because each Biolock is an IP device,
you can add wireless to it and avoid
running cables (just as you would in
any wireless network). This of course
applies to home use just as much as
business.
Other software
Biorecognition Systems have a range
of other add-on software products to
expand the Biolock’s capabilities.
Of particular note is the BioTime
Time and Attendance software which
can eliminate time cards or clocks.
They also have more powerful access
control software for higher security
applications.
More info?
Visit the Biorecognition website at
www.brsgrp.com
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
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This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from
the beginning (April 1939 – price sixpence!) right through to the final edition of R, TV & H in
March 1965, before it disappeared forever with the change of name to EA.
For the first time ever, complete and in one handy DVD, every article and every issue
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If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more
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the amazing breakthroughs made in radio and electronics technology following the war years.
And speaking of the war years, R & H had some of the best propaganda imaginable!
Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you.
• Every issue individually archived, by month and year
• Complete with index for each year
• A must-have for everyone interested in electronics
Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC.
Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!)
and Acrobat Reader V6 (free download) to enable you to view this archive.
This DVD is NOT playable through a standard A/V-type DVD player.
Exclusive to
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January 2007 15
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
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has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
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dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
By John Clarke & Julian Edgar
Using the temperature switch, it’s easy to
rig warning lights or alarms for over-high
engine or gearbox oil temperatures. In fact,
anything’s that hot in the car (with the
exception of the exhaust gas and cylinder
head) can be monitored. [Ford photo]
Temperature Switch
A cheap general-purpose adjustable design that can work all the
way up to 245°C!
T
HERE ARE MANY automotive performance applications where you
want to turn something on or off on
the basis of measured temperature. Radiator cooling fans, over-temperature
warning lights or alarms, intercooler
or amplifier fans – they all need a
cheap and easily-adjusted temperature
switch.
Temperature switches are available
commercially but this build-it-yourself design has some major advantages
over normal thermostats and temperature switches. First, it can be adjusted
very finely – you can literally set (to
Main Features
• Adjustable temperature switching from 0°C to 245°C
• Double-pole changeover 5A
relay contacts
• Selectable rising or falling
temperature switching
• Adjustable hysteresis
• Easy to build
22 Silicon Chip
the degree) the temperature at which
the switch triggers.
Second, the hysteresis (ie, the difference between on and off temperatures)
is adjustable. That lets you set the
system up so that the device you’re
switching isn’t constantly cycling at
the trigger point. You can set a wide
hysteresis to switch something on and
off at two widely spaced temperatures,
or a low hysteresis to keep tighter
control – the choice is yours!
Third, the sensor used in this design
is good for temperatures up to 245°C.
This means you can monitor engine
oil or auto transmission oil temperature, or site the sensor near the brakes
to trigger cooling sprays. Basically,
apart from exhaust gas and cylinder
head temperature, you can trigger the
switch with anything on the car that’s
hot or cold!
Finally, you can configure the sensor so that it reacts very quickly to
temperature changes.
Construction
The Temperature Switch is a simple
kit to build but you should make one
decision before starting construction. Will you be using it to detect a
temperature that is rising to the trip
point or falling to the trip point? The
Temperature Switch can be configured
to work either way but if you know
which way you’re going, you won’t
have to make changes later on.
The detection of a rising temperature will be the more common
application – for example, turning
on a warning light or fans when the
temperature gets too high. But if
you want something switched on as
the temperature falls – for example,
activating a warning light when the
outside temperature drops below 3°C
to warn of the possibility of black ice
on the road – then the Temperature
Switch needs to be configured for a
falling temperature.
So what are the changes made for the
differing configurations? They’re simple: for rising temperature detection,
link LK1 is placed in its “L/H” position
(ie, to the left when the board is orientated as shown in Fig.2) and diode D3
is orientated so that its band is closest
to the bottom of the board. Conversely,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the temperature is monitored using a thermistor, while either op amp IC1a or IC1b drives transistor Q1 and
the relay. Trimpot VR1 sets the temperature trigger point.
How It Works
The temperature is monitored using
a thermistor which exhibits a variable
resistance with temperature. At high
temperatures, the resistance of the
thermistor is low, while at lower temperatures its resistance increases.
A 1kΩ resistor from the 8V supply
feeds current through the thermistor
which then produces a voltage which is
inversely proportional to temperature.
This voltage is filtered using a 100nF
capacitor and fed via a 1kΩ resistor to
the inverting input (pin 2) of op amp IC1a
which is connected as a comparator.
The voltage on IC1a’s non-inverting input (pin 3) is by set-point trimpot VR1 via
a 10kΩ resistor. When the thermistor
voltage at pin 2 is above the voltage
set by VR1 at pin 3, IC1a’s output is
low. Conversely, when the thermistor
voltage is below the voltage on pin 3,
IC1a’s output is high (around +8V).
Hysteresis has been added to prevent the output of IC1a from oscillating
when the inverting input is close to the
switching threshold. This hysteresis is
provided by trimpot VR2 and diode D3
in series between pins 1 & 3.
Trimpot VR2 enables the amount of
hysteresis (actually positive feedback)
siliconchip.com.au
to be adjusted. With low hysteresis,
the temperature only has to drop by
a small amount for IC1a’s output to
switch low again after it has switched
high. If VR2 is set for high hysteresis,
the temperature must fall by a much
larger amount before IC1a’s output
switches low again.
Diode D3 sets the direction of the
hysteresis action. As shown, it provides
hysteresis when pin 1 of IC1a goes
high. Alternatively, if mounted in the opposite direction, it provides hysteresis
when IC1a’s output goes low.
Where the circuit is intended to
provide a switched output when the
temperature goes above a certain
value, the diode is installed as shown
on the circuit and parts overlay (Fig.2).
If you want the switching to occur when
the temperature falls below a certain
value, diode D3 is reversed.
Op amp IC1b is an inverter which
provides a signal opposite in polarity
to IC1a’s output. When IC1a’s output
goes high, IC1b’s output goes low and
vice versa.
Link LK1 provides the option for driving the relay with a rising temperature
(L/H) or a falling temperature (H/L). It
selects the output of IC1a or IC1b to
drive transistor Q1 which, in turn, drives
the relay. Diode D2 is there to quench
the reverse voltage that is generated
by the collapsing magnetic field of the
relay coil each time it is switched off.
Power is obtained from the car’s
+12V ignition supply via D1 which gives
reverse polarity protection. The 10Ω
resistor, 100µF capacitor and zener
diode ZD1 provide transient protection at the input of regulator REG1. All
the circuitry is powered via the 7808
regulator with the exception of the relay,
Q1 and LED1 which are driven from the
11.4V supply following D1.
Resistor Colour Codes
Value
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
22kΩ
10kΩ
1.8kΩ
1kΩ
10Ω
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown grey red brown
brown black red brown
brown black black brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black gold brown
January 2007 23
The device turns other devices
on or off on the basis of sensed
temperature. Its sensor can work
over the range of 0°C - 245°C,
making it useful for monitoring
engine oil, engine coolant and
transmission oil temperatures, as
well as intercooler and inlet air
temperatures. Note that link LK1 (to
the left of the relay) must be moved
to the H/L position and diode D3
(circled) reversed in orientation if
the switch is to trigger on a falling
(rather than rising) temperature.
Use It To Do This . . .
•
•
•
•
•
•
transistor, voltage regulator and
electrolytic capacitors. During
construction, follow Fig.2 closely to
avoid making mistakes.
The thermistor is of the “bare”
design – ie, it’s not potted in epoxy
or mounted inside a brass fitting. If
you want temperature detection to
occur very quickly (ie, if you want
the thermistor to react quickly, even
to small temperature variations), the
100 µF
10 µF
H/L
CT N
L/H
10k
C ON
CN
1.8k
22k
10k
100 µF
ON
NO
+
NC
CN
H/L
LK1L/ H K
10k
1k
100nF
COM
C
COM
+
10 µF
1k
NO
NC
IC1
LM358
1
K
+
K
1M
A
1N
4148
ZD1
+
TO
THERMISTOR
*D3
10k
A
K
LED1
VR2
REG1
7808
V21+
+12V
DNG
GND
A
VR1 1k
10Ω
D2
Q1
RELAY 1
1 0 1ra c 5 0
A D1 K
H CTI WS ERUTAREP MET
to detect a falling temperature, link
LK1 is moved to its alternative “H/L”
position and diode D3’s orientation is
reversed. Easy, huh?
When assembling the PC board, be
sure to insert the polarised components the correct way around. These
parts include the diodes, IC, LED,
A
*REVERSE D3 IF LINK LK1
IS IN 'H/L' POSITION
Fig.2: this layout diagram shows where each of the parts is placed on the
PC board. Don’t forget to reverse D3 if link LK1 is in the H/L position.
24 Silicon Chip
Operate electric radiator fans
Over-temperature warning light or alarm
Operate amplifier cooling fans
Operate an intercooler water spray or fan
Operate a brake cooling water spray
Reduce turbo boost when intake air
temperature is high
thermistor should be left exposed.
However, if the reaction speed isn’t
so important but durability is, you can
pot the thermistor in high-temperature
epoxy and mount it in the end of a
threaded brass fitting.
Either way, the thermistor will need
to be connected to a length of shielded
single core cable, with the shield (the
braid) connecting to the 0V terminal
on the PC board. The thermistor isn’t
polarised – it can be connected either
way around. Insulate the leads of the
thermistor using heatshrink tubing so
that they cannot short out to each other
or to ground. In many cases, the whole
thermistor itself can then be covered
in heatshrink without slowing its reaction time too much.
Testing
Once the assembly is complete, it’s
a good idea to bench-test the module
to make sure it works correctly. To do
this, you’ll need to connect the thermistor to the input terminals (remember, braided side of the shielded cable
to 0V) and supply power and earth.
First, turn VR2 (just above IC1) fully
anti-clockwise. Then turn set-point
pot VR1 anti-clockwise until the relay
siliconchip.com.au
The thermistor’s
leads should be
insulated and then
covered in heatshrink tubing so
that short circuits
can’t occur. If
durability in
extreme conditions
is required (and the sensor doesn’t
need to react quickly), it can be
potted in high-temperature epoxy
and mounted in the end of a threaded
brass fitting.
clicks and the LED comes on. Because
VR1 is a multi-turn pot, you may need
to rotate it a number of times before
the LED lights.
Once the switch has tripped, you
can then turn the set-point pot back
clockwise just enough to turn off the
LED and disengage the relay. Now
when you heat the thermistor, the LED
should immediately come on and the
relay click over; cooling the thermistor
should cause the LED and relay to turn
off again fairly quickly.
Finally, turn VR2 (hysteresis) clockwise a little and you should find that
the switch takes longer to turn back
off when it is being cooled down after
being tripped.
Fitting
Fitting the Temperature Switch to
a car is easy. You need only provide
an ignition-switched power supply
Fig.3: here is a typical connection set-up, where the Temperature Switch
might be monitoring the temperature of an audio amplifier. The relay’s
Normally Open (NO) connection is made to ignition-switched +12V, while
the adjacent Common terminal is connected to a fan. The other side of
the fan is earthed. When the temperature rises to the set-point, the fan
is triggered. The setting of the hysteresis pot determines how low the
temperature then has to fall before the fan switches off.
and earth, and then install the thermistor where you want to sense the
temperature.
For example, if you are controlling
a radiator cooling fan, you could place
an electrically-insulated temperature
sensor on the top tank of the radiator. Or if you want the Temperature
Switch to illuminate a warning light
when engine or transmission oil gets
excessively hot, you could attach the
sensor to the appropriate sump.
If you want just the warning light
function, you can remotely mount a
high-intensity LED within your line
of sight – just extend the wires that
connect the LED to the PC board,
making sure that you keep the LED
polarity correct.
If you want to turn a device on and
off with the temperature switch, you
can use the relay’s Normally Open
(NO) and Common contacts. Fig.3
shows these connections. The relay’s
contacts are rated to 5A – for currents
higher than this, use the on-board
Table 1: Setting The Trip Point Temperature
°C
Rt
Vt
°C
Rt
Vt
°C
Rt
Vt
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60
65
70
75
80
33,944.034
26,120.042
20,286.407
15,894.535
12,557.604
10,000.00
8023.382
6483.660
5275.206
4319.920
3559.575
2950.420
2459.334
2061.059
1736.202
1469.774
1250.116
7.771
7.705
7.624
7.526
7.410
7.273
7.113
6.931
6.725
6.496
6.245
5.975
5.687
5.387
5.076
4.761
4.445
85
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
125
130
135
140
145
150
155
160
165
1068.105
916.558
789.791
683.278
593.399
517.244
452.462
397.143
349.731
308.953
273.760
243.287
216.818
193.755
173.601
155.938
140.416
4.132
3.826
3.530
3.247
2.979
2.727
2.492
2.274
2.073
1.888
1.719
1.565
1.425
1.298
1.183
1.079
0.985
170
175
180
185
190
195
200
205
210
215
220
225
230
235
240
245
126.739
114.656
103.954
94.454
85.999
78.458
71.718
65.679
60.259
55.384
50.991
47.023
43.435
40.183
37.231
34.547
0.900
0.823
0.753
0.690
0.634
0.582
0.535
0.493
0.455
0.420
0.388
0.359
0.333
0.309
0.287
0.267
You can use this table to set the trip point for the temperature switch, where the temperature is shown in the lefthand
column and the voltage required to be on the middle pin of the set-point pot (VR1) is shown on the righthand side. For
example, if you want the switch to trip at 145°C, the pot will need to be turned until the measured voltage is 1.425V.
siliconchip.com.au
January 2007 25
Parts List
The temperature switch can be used to operate electric radiator fans and you
can adjust the difference between the switch-on and switch-off temperatures.
With high loads like these fans, you should run an extra heavy-duty automotive
relay. [Bosch]
relay to switch another heavy duty
automotive relay.
Note that because a double-pole,
double-throw (DPDT) relay has been
used, another completely independent
circuit can also be switched simultaneously. This other circuit can even
turn off the second device as the first
is switched on.
Setting-Up
There are two ways of setting the
action of the Temperature Switch.
First, if you have another means of
monitoring the temperature (eg, via
an engine-coolant temperature gauge
or a temporary temperature probe
and display), wait until the measured
temperature reaches the desired trigger level, then turn set-point pot VR1
until the Temperature Switch just
turns on.
The turn-off value will be set by
the hysteresis pot (VR2). If you want
the turn-off value to be close to the
Where To Buy A Kit
This design was originally
published in SILICON CHIP’s “Performance Electronics For Cars”. A
kit of parts is available exclusively
from Jaycar Electronics.
“Performance Electronics For
Cars” is available from Silicon Chip
Publications and from Jaycar.
26 Silicon Chip
turn-on temperature, set VR2 fully
anti-clockwise. If you want the turn-off
temperature to be much lower, adjust
VR2 further clockwise.
The other way of setting the trip
point is to make some measurements
on the bench. Table 1 shows typical
NTC thermistor resistance values for a
range of temperatures. The thermistor
is 10kΩ at 25°C and falls to 34.5Ω at
245°C.
Table 1 also shows the expected
voltage across the thermistor at each
temperature value, assuming the regulator output is at 8V. If the regulator
voltage is slightly different to this,
the value will need to be scaled accordingly.
For example, if the regulator output
is 7.8V, then the output voltage will be
the value shown multiplied by 7.8V,
all divided by 8V. You can measure
the regulator’s output voltage by using
a multimeter to probe the righthand
terminal of the regulator with the PC
board orientated as in the overlay and
photos. Connect the other probe of the
multimeter to ground. Make sure that
you don’t slip with the multimeter
probe and short-circuit the regulator!
When VR1 is adjusted so that a particular voltage shown in Table 1 can
be measured on its wiper terminal, the
switch will trip at the corresponding
temperature. For example, if you want
the relay to close at 120°C, set VR1 so
that its wiper voltage is 2.274V. The
accuracy will be within about 2%.
1 PC board coded 05car101,
105 x 60mm
1 NTC thermistor, SOD27
leaded package, -40°C to
300°C (BC components 2322
633 83103)
5 PC-mount 2-way screw
terminals with 5mm pin
spacing
1 12V PC mount DPDT 5A relay
(Relay1)
1 3-way header with 2.54mm
spacing
1 jumper shunt with 2.54mm
spacing
1 3m length of single core
shielded cable
1 50mm length of 4mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 1kΩ multi-turn top adjust
trimpot (VR1)
1 1MΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2)
Semiconductors
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC1)
1 7808 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D2)
1 1N4148 diode (D3)
Capacitors
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester (code
104 or 100n)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 22kΩ
2 1kΩ
4 10kΩ
1 10Ω
1 1.8kΩ
Remember, if you wish the relay to
close when the temperature goes above
a particular value, install link LK1 in
position “L/H” and install diode D3
as shown on the overlay. For the relay
to close when the temperature goes
below a certain value, install link LK1
in position “H/L” and install D3 the
other way around.
In most applications, once the Temperature Switch is set, it won’t need
to be altered. The PC board fits into a
130 x 68 x 42mm jiffy box, so when
the system is working correctly, it can
be inserted into the box and tucked
SC
out of sight.
siliconchip.com.au
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Intelligent Car
Air-Conditioner
Controller
This simple device stops the air-conditioner in your
car from sapping engine power when going up hills or
during overtaking, while still maintaining comfortable
temperature levels inside the cabin. It’s based on a PIC
microcontroller and is easy to build.
By JOHN CLARKE
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
D
URING THE HOT SUMMER
months, your car’s air-conditioner
works quite hard to keep cabin temperatures cool. As a result, fuel consumption increases due to the extra
load imposed on the engine by the
air-conditioning system or more specifically, by its compressor.
But that’s not all – the extra load imposed on the engine by the compressor
is readily noticed when travelling up
hills, particularly in smaller 4-cylinder cars.
In order to get around this problem,
many drivers manually switch off the
air-conditioner to ensure extra power
during hill climbing or when overtaking. It’s almost like giving the car
a mini “turbo boost”. On some new
cars, this can even happen automatically. These cars have a “Wide Open
Throttle” (WOT) cutout relay and
this automatically switches off the
air-conditioner’s compressor during
high throttle conditions.
If you wanted to maximise engine
performance, you would only turn the
air-conditioner on when going down
hills or when slowing down. That way,
the air-conditioner compressor could
be used as a brake that converts the
energy into cooling the cabin rather
than being wasted as heat in the brakes
or via engine braking.
In practice, of course, it’s quite impractical for the driver to continually
switch the air-conditioner on and off.
In any case, the compressor would
also have to run for at least some of
the time on a relatively flat road in
order to keep the cabin temperature to
a comfortable level on very hot days.
Doing it electronically
But what if the switching could be
done electronically? Well, that’s just
what this clever little circuit does.
Based on a microcontroller, it’s connected to various sensors in your
car and automatically switches the
air-conditioner off when the car is
accelerating or going up hills. It then
allows it to switch on again (if needed)
when the car is slowing down or going
down hills, or when the engine is only
lightly loaded (eg, when travelling on
the “flat”).
So the concept is really quite simple. The circuit overrides the existing
air-conditioner control system to turn
the compressor off when the engine is
heavily loaded. It then allows the airconditioner to operate normally when
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the basic elements in a car air conditioning system.
H ow A n A ir- C o n d it io n e r Wo r k s
Fig.1 shows the basic elements of the air conditioning cycle. The system
comprises condenser and evaporator coils, a compressor and an expansion
valve. In operation, the compressor compresses the refrigerant gas. This
causes the gas to become hot and it is then passed through the condenser
(essentially a large radiator) to cool.
In the process of giving up heat, the refrigerant becomes a liquid (ie, it condenses). This liquid is then passed through an expansion valve and this causes
the liquid to expand into a low-pressure gas, significantly cooling it in the process.
Following the expansion valve, the low-pressure refrigerant is passed through
the evaporator coil. Any air that passes over this coil will be cooled, due to heat
absorption by the cold evaporator.
This cooling process also reduces the air’s capacity to hold moisture and so
this condenses to form moisture on the evaporator coil. As a result, the air is
also dehumidified.
Lower air humidity allows the human body’s cooling system to work more
efficiently by allowing water evaporation from the skin to occur more readily.
Along with the lowered air temperature, this reduced humidity gives an additional
cooling benefit.
engine loads are light. In addition,
the system can be set up to switch off
the compressor when the vehicle is
stationary (engine idling).
That’s the basic concept but in practice there’s a lot more control “intelligence” built into the system as we shall
see. In theory, this improved control
should also reduce fuel consumption.
However, we have not done any tests
to confirm this.
In order to understand how we
can improve the operation of the airconditioner, let’s take a look at how
we control it. If you are not sure how
air-conditioning works, refer to the
above panel entitled “How An Air
Conditioner Works”.
Temperature control
Most older air-conditioners control
the cabin temperature using a thermostat located in the cabin. This simply
switches the compressor on or off,
depending on the temperature.
By contrast, modern climate control
systems are much more complex in
their operation. They generally use a
thermistor to monitor temperature. Its
output is fed to an electronic control
January 2007 29
does not require a speed signal to be
connected.
(3) Low feature mode – used if you
only want the controller to provide
high-throttle compressor switch off.
Alternatively, for this mode, you can
ditch the Air-Conditioner Controller
and use the Simple Voltage Switch
from “Performance Electronics For
Cars” instead – see panel.
Inputs monitored
Fig.2: how a car air-conditioner
is wired into circuit. Note the
alternative wiring arrangements
for the condenser fan.
circuit which then acts to direct air
(via vents) over the evaporator, control
the air-flow speed, maintain humidity
levels and control the compressor.
Our controller works with both
types of air-conditioner systems.
Override control
One possible drawback to our controller is that the cabin temperature
could rise uncomfortably high during extended hill climbs. As a result,
we’ve included an optional override
switch. By pressing this switch, the
controller is disabled for a preset
period, so that the air-conditioner
operates normally.
This preset period can be set anywhere from 2-10 minutes, with each
switch press giving a 2-minute increment.
In addition, the unit can (optionally)
be set so that the compressor comes
on for longer that it normally would
during deceleration. In other words,
the cabin is cooled down further
than normal. The idea here is that the
compressor then won’t have to come
on as much as usual on level stretches
of road.
Of course, this extended cool-down
period also causes wider than normal
temperature fluctuations in the cabin
temperature, although this can be adjusted to suit individual preferences.
Alternatively, you can dispense with
this feature altogether, depending on
the settings chosen during the set-up
procedure.
Three operating modes
The firmware allows the user to
select one of three different operating
modes when setting up the Air-Conditioner Controller. These are:
(1) Full mode – this includes the highthrottle compressor switch off, the
low-throttle extended cool-down period (compressor on) and compressor
switch-off when the engine is idling.
(2) Medium mode – this is the same
as the full mode but does not include compressor switch-off when
the vehicle is stationary. This mode
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Automatically switches compressor off when car is accelerating or
travelling up hills (high throttle)
Compressor may run with low throttle even when the cabin temperature
setting has been reached
Automatically switches compressor off when car is stationary
Standard compressor operation with normal throttle position
Override switch
Optional speed signal input
LED indicators for main functions
30 Silicon Chip
In operation, the Air Conditioner
Controller monitors the car’s throttle
position sensor in order to gauge engine load. In addition, there’s a speed
signal input, a compressor “flag” input
and the above-mentioned override
switch input.
The speed signal input applies
mainly to city driving conditions,
where vehicles invariably spend a lot
of time sitting at traffic lights. This
input (derived from the speedometer
signal) allows the Air Conditioner
Controller to automatically switch
off the compressor when the vehicle
is stationary.
Alternatively, if most of your driving
is in the country, you may not wish to
use this feature since the engine won’t
spend much time idling. In that case,
it’s simply a matter of leaving the speed
input disconnected.
Compressor flag input
The compressor flag signal is normally used to directly drive the compressor. It goes high (+12V) to turn
the compressor on when the cabin
requires cooling and low (0V) when
the temperature setting is reached.
In this application, however, the
compressor flag is used as an input.
Its job is to indicate to the controller
whether the compressor would normally be on or off. Basically, the Air
Conditioner Controller intercepts the
compressor signal and processes this
along with the other inputs. It then
switches the compressor on and off
via an external relay.
Fig.2 shows how the compressor
is normally wired, while Fig.3 shows
the wiring with the Air Conditioner
Controller installed.
Logging the flag signal
In operation, the on/off duty cycle of
the flag signal is logged by the controller. This is done so that the controller
can determine the necessary extra
compressor turn-on period during desiliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: this diagram shows how the wiring is rearranged to include
the Air-Conditioner Controller. The compressor and its condenser
fan are now switched on and off by the controller via an external
relay (Relay1). The second relay (Relay2) is used only if the
vehicle uses the alternative condenser fan wiring.
celeration and braking. The flag signal
isn’t logged continuously though, as
this would give an erroneous indication of the overall duty cycle. Let’s take
a closer look at this.
First, the flag signal isn’t logged if it
goes high during high engine load conditions. That’s because the controller
will have disabled the compressor and
this in turn can cause the flag signal
to go high (in a vain attempt to turn
the compressor on) for much longer
periods than normal. As a result, the
duty cycle would quite unrealistic if
it was to be measured.
Conversely, we do log the flag signal
when it is low during high engine load
conditions, since it is no longer affected
by the actions of the controller.
That’s not the end of it. Again, for
low-throttle positions, the flag signal
is not logged if it is low and the compressor is running, as the controller
is again effectively overriding the flag
signal. Similarly, there’s no logging
when the engine is idling and the
compressor flag is high, because the
controller prevents the compressor
from running.
Basically, logging only takes place
when the controller is not overriding
the flag signal and the air-conditioner
is operating “normally”. If there is
intervention one way or other by the
controller, the logging ceases.
siliconchip.com.au
Any logging that does take place
only begins after the compressor flag
signal goes low and then high again,
indicating the start of normal thermostatic control by the air-conditioning
system. Any logging before then (ie,
immediately after the air-conditioner
has been turned on) would again give
a false result.
In operation, the compressor flag
signal is actively logged over a period
that can be set from 1-16 minutes.
This logging time excludes those
periods when logging is paused. The
extended cool-down function only
becomes fully operational when there
is a satisfactory log of the flag signal for
processing by the PIC microcontroller.
The default length of the extended
cool-down period is set by the multiplier adjustment.
Other settings
Apart from the multiplier adjustment, there are three other main
settings: the adaptation setting, the
logging period and the retrigger period.
The adaptation setting modifies the
length of the cool-down period according to the driving pattern. At its
minimum setting, the extended cooldown period is the same each time it
is activated. By contrast, at higher settings, the extended cool-down period
is progressively reduced according to
the number of times the vehicle slows
down (or decelerates) in a given time
period.
The idea here is that we can afford
to reduce the length of the extended
cool-down periods if they are occurring quite frequently.
The logging period can be set
anywhere between 64 seconds to 16
minutes in 64s steps. However, the
total number of samples in the whole
logging period is always 128.
Generally a 4-5 minute logging period will be suitable (ie, the compressor flag will be sampled approximately
every 2.5s). However, if the compressor normally switches on and off at a
fast rate, it may be necessary to use
a shorter logging period to correctly
sample the compressor flag signal.
Finally, the retrigger setting sets the
minimum delay between switching
the compressor off and then on again
(and vice versa). It only comes into
effect during high-throttle switching
(compressor off), low-throttle cooldown switching (compressor on) and
idle switching (compressor off).
Basically, the retrigger period functions as a timer to prevent the compressor from being switched on and off at
a rapid rate. It can be set anywhere
from 0-15s, although a 2-3s setting will
generally be suitable.
The retrigger setting does not affect
January 2007 31
Specifications
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Compressor monitor period: adjustable in 64-second steps from 64s to
16 minutes.
Compressor sampling period: selected with monitor period from 0.5 to
7.5s
Multiplier effect: adjustable in 0.8% steps from x1 to x2
Adaptation adjustment: from standard to full in 16 steps.
Throttle input range: 0-5V with R1 out; 0-14.8V with R1 in.
Low throttle adjustment: 0-5V or 0-14.8V.
High throttle adjustment: 0-5V or 0-14.8V.
Compressor retrigger period: adjustable in 1s steps from 0-15s (with
0.5s uncertainty).
Compressor flag input: 0-15V.
Speed signal input sensitivity: 1.2V (VR4 fully clockwise) to 3V (VR4 at
two thirds anticlockwise).
Override period: adjustable from 2-10 minutes with 2-minute increments per switch press.
Current consumption: 200mA with all LEDs lit and compressor relay on.
the time taken to switch the compressor off under high throttle settings. It is
also disabled when the compressor is
behaving normally in response to the
flag signal, since it will be operating
within the manufacturer’s specifications.
Condenser fan drive
As shown in Fig.2, car air-conditioning systems run an electrically
operated condenser fan to help transfer
heat from the condenser to the ambient air. This fan can be wired so that it
either runs only when the compressor
is on or so that it runs permanently
whenever the air-conditioner is turned
on, regardless as to whether the compressor is running or not.
Our controller caters for both types
of fan wiring. In the first case, the condenser fan is left connected across the
compressor and both are controlled via
the same output from the controller.
In the second case, the fan is driven
via a separate controller output (and
external relay). This is done because
the controller may run the compressor
once more after the air-conditioner has
been switched off to implement the
extended cool-down function.
Circuit details
Its operation may sound complicated (thanks to the software options) but
the circuit itself is really very simple.
Fig.4 shows the details.
32 Silicon Chip
PIC microcontroller (IC1) is the heart
of the circuit. This accepts the various
inputs, runs the software program to
perform the various functions and
drives the relays and several LED
indicators.
The software is quite involved, with
about 1500 lines of code. Much of the
programmed code provides the decision logic for the extended cool-down
feature.
In its basic form, IC1 is programmed
to monitor inputs from the speed-o
meter signal, the throttle position sensor and the compressor flag signal. It
processes these inputs and drives the
compressor (via Relay1) according to
the software logic.
In addition, there are inputs from
trimpots VR1-VR3 and override switch
(S1), with further options provided by
links LK1 & LK2 – see Tables 3 & 4.
The main outputs from IC1 appear
at RA0 and RA1 (pins 17 & 18) and
these drive NPN transistors Q2 and
Q3, along with indicator LED6 (Compressor On). Additional outputs at
RB5, RB7, RA6 & RA7 drive LEDs 2-5
respectively.
As shown, the speedometer signal
is fed to the base of transistor Q1 via
a voltage divider consisting of 10kW
and 1kW series-connected resistors
and trimpot VR4. Zener diode ZD2
clamps any voltages above 16V, while
the associated 10nF capacitor shunts
unwanted high-frequency signals.
Trimpot VR4 functions as a sensitivity control for the speed sensor signal.
When VR4 is set to maximum (10kW),
Q1 switches on when the speed sensor
signal goes above 1.2V and off when
the signal goes below this threshold.
Setting VR4 to a lower resistance value
attenuates the signal fed to Q1’s base,
which means that the speed signal
(and thus the vehicle’s speed) must
be higher for Q1 to turn on.
Q1’s collector is normally held high
(at +5V) via a 10kW resistor. When Q1
turns on, the collector voltage is pulled
low to about 200mV. A 1nF capacitor
provides further high-frequency filtering before the signal is applied to the
RB1 input (pin 7) of IC1.
The override switch S1 connects
to the RB0 input (pin 6) of IC1 via a
1kW resistor. This resistor and its associated 100nF capacitor provides RF
filtering, to keep unwanted noise out
of the RB0 input.
The RB0 input is normally held high
via an internal pull-up resistor. However, when S1 is closed, RB0 is pulled
low (towards 0V) and this is detected
by the software. As a refinement, the
software includes a routine that makes
sure that very short switch closures or
transients are ignored.
Throttle position
The throttle position is monitored
at the AN5 (pin 12) input via a 1MW
resistor. This resistor has a high value
in order to prevent any loading on
the car’s throttle position sensor. ZD3
clamps any transients that exceed
16V, while the 100nF capacitor filters
the signal to remove high-frequency
noise.
Resistor R1 (510kW) is included to
attenuate the throttle position sensor
output if its voltage range goes up to
14.4V. Alternatively, this resistor is
left out for speed sensors with a 0-5V
range (the more usual case).
IC1 converts the voltage applied
to its AN5 input to a digital value. In
this case, 0V is converted to “0”, while
5V becomes 255. Voltages between
these extremes have values between
0 and 255.
Next in line is the compressor flag
input and this connects to RB4 (pin
10) via series 100W and 10kW resistors. Zener diode ZD4 and the 100nF
capacitor again act to clamp transients
and filter the input signal. A high-level
compressor flag signal (up to 14.4V) is
indicated via LED1 which is connected
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the circuit is based on PIC microcontroller IC1. This device monitors several input signals and controls the
compressor and its condenser fan via external relays.
via a 3.9kW current-limiting resistor.
Inputs RB2 & RB3 are for links LK1
& LK2. These inputs are normally
held high (+5V) via internal pull-up
resistors. When a link is installed, its
corresponding input is pulled low to
0V. Link LK1 selects the function of
trimpots VR1, VR2 & VR3, while LK2
is installed if you want to dispense
with the “compressor off when vehicle
is stationary” feature in Medium mode
(see Table 3).
Trimpots VR1, VR2 & VR3 each connect across the 5V supply, with their
wipers connected to the AN2, AN3 &
AN4 inputs respectively. The voltages
on their wipers are converted to digital
siliconchip.com.au
values in a similar manner to the voltage on the AN5 input. These values
then set the multiplier value and the
low and high-throttle thresholds when
link LK1 is out (Table 4). Alternatively,
they set the adaptation value, the logging period and retrigger period when
LK1 is installed.
Indicator LEDs
Indicator LEDs LED2-LED5 are
driven by the RB5, RB7, RA6 and RA7
outputs of IC1. These show the speed
signal, high throttle, low throttle and
override conditions, respectively.
In operation, the Speed LED (LED2)
flashes at a 1Hz rate when a speed sig-
nal is detected. By contrast, the HighThrottle LED (LED3) lights continuously when the throttle position sensor
voltage goes above a threshold set by
VR3. Conversely, the Low-Throttle
LED (LED4) lights when the throttle
sensor voltage goes below a threshold
set by VR2.
LED 5 is the Override indicator. It
lights for the duration of the override
period when switch S1 is pressed.
Finally, LED6 indicates when the
compressor is on, which is whenever
IC1’s RA0 output goes high. This output also drives the base of transistor
Q2 via a 1kW resistor. When RA0 goes
high, Q2 turns on and drives Relay1.
January 2007 33
Fig.5: install the parts on the PC board as
shown here. Resistor R1 is installed only
if the throttle sensor output exceeds 6V
(see text),
This is the fully-assembled PC
board. Note how the indicator
LEDs are mounted.
Transistor Q3 is driven by output
RA1 in a similar manner to Q2. This
transistor drives Relay2 which in turn
controls the condenser fan in some
installations.
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived from
the vehicle’s ignition supply. This is
fed to 3-terminal regulator REG1 via
diode D1 which provides reverse polarity protection. A 10W resistor and
470mF capacitor decouple the supply
following D1, while zener diode ZD1
(16V) protects REG1 from damage due
to voltage transients.
Pin 4 (MCLR) of IC1 is connected
34 Silicon Chip
the REG1’s output via a 1kW resistor.
This pin resets the microcontroller
each time power is applied.
Construction
All parts (except the relays) are installed on a PC board coded 05101071
(107 x 61mm) and this is housed in
a plastic box measuring 130 x 68 x
44mm. PC-mount screw terminals at
either end of the board take care of the
external wiring connections.
Fig.5 shows the assembly details. As
usual, start by carefully checking the
PC board for defects (shorted tracks
or breaks in the copper pattern, etc).
While you’re at it, check the hole sizes.
In particular, check the holes for the
screw terminals and the four cornermounting holes. Enlarge these holes
if necessary.
That done, install all the resistors
but note that R1 should be left out
for the time being. Table 1 shows the
resistor colour codes but you should
also use a digital multimeter to check
the values as some colours can be difficult to decipher.
The diodes and IC socket can go in
next, taking care to ensure that they
are all oriented correctly. Follow these
with the capacitors, again taking care
to ensure that the electrolytics go in
the right way around.
Transistors Q1-Q3 are next on the
list, after which you can install LEDs16. The latter should be mounted so that
the top of each LED is 28mm above
the PC board (pushing the LEDs down
onto a cardboard spacer between their
leads is the best way to achieve this).
Make sure that each LED goes in
with its anode lead towards the left
(the anode lead is the longer of the
two). Note that LEDs 1&6 are red while
the remaining four LEDs are green.
The 3-terminal regulator REG1 is
next on the list. As shown, this device is mounted with its metal tab flat
against the PC board. It’s installed by
first bending its leads down by 90°,
then slipping it into position and
fastening its tab to the board using an
M3 x 6mm screw and nut. That done,
its leads are soldered to the PC board
and cut to length.
siliconchip.com.au
Don’t solder REG1’s leads before
bolting down its metal tab to the board.
If you do, this could impose strain
on the soldered joints and crack the
board tracks.
The board assembly can now be
completed by installing trimpots VR1VR4, the screw terminal blocks and
the link headers for LK1 & LK2. Don’t
install IC1 in its socket yet, though –
we’ll get to that shortly.
Testing
The test procedure is quite brief and
simply consists of checking the supply rails before IC1 is plugged into its
socket. To do this, apply power to the
+12V and 0V terminals and check that
there is 5V between pins 14 & 5 of IC1’s
socket. If this is correct, switch off and
install IC1, taking care to ensure it is
oriented correctly – see Fig.5.
Adjustments
Initially, before switching on the Air
Step 4: if you have an oscillator connected, set it at about 100Hz (or anywhere between 2Hz and 1kHz) and
adjust trimpot VR4 (sensitivity) so
that the speed LED flashes. If the LED
does not flash, check that the oscillator
level is sufficient. When the oscillator
is disconnected the LED should stop
flashing.
Step 5: rotate the external potentiometer fully anticlockwise and check that
the Low-Throttle LED lights. Conversely, check that the High-Throttle
LED lights when the potentiometer is
rotated fully clockwise.
Step 6: set the potentiometer mid-way
so that neither throttle LED is lit. Now
press the compressor flag switch. The
compressor flag LED (LED1) should
immediately light, followed by the
compressor LED (LED6) within 0.5s.
Release the switch and both LEDs
should extinguish.
Step 7: press and hold the compressor flag switch again and check that
the compressor LED extinguishes as
the pot is rotated clockwise to a high
setting.
Step 8: check that the signal generator is
off and press and hold the compressor
flag switch. Check that the compressor LED goes off as the potentiometer
is rotated fully anticlockwise. If the
signal generator is now connected,
then the compressor LED should come
on. Note that if link LK2 is installed,
the compressor LED should stay lit for
low potentiometer settings even when
there is no oscillator signal.
Step 9: set the potentiometer mid-way
Conditioner Controller for the very
first time, the programmed settings
are: Multiplier – x1.2; Low Throttle
Threshold – 1.25V; High Throttle
Threshold – 3.75V; Adaptation – minimum; Logging Period – 5 minutes;
Retrigger Period 5s. However, these
settings will be immediately altered
by the settings of VR1, VR2 & VR3
when power is applied.
As indicated previously, LK1
also plays a role here. If LK1 is out,
then the Multiplier, Low Throttle
and High Throttle settings will be set
by VR1-VR3. Conversely, if LK1 is in
place, then the Adaptation, Logging
Period and Retrigger Period will be
adjusted by the trimpots – see Table 4.
Once a setting is changed, it is remembered unless changed again via
the link and trimpot adjustments. You
will need to make a note of the settings
for VR1, VR2 and VR3 so you can
return these to their selected settings
whenever the link is changed to make
the alternative adjustments.
The initial tests can be performed
using the test setup shown in Fig.6.
You will need a couple of momentarycontact pushbutton switches, a 10kW
(or any value up to 100kW) linear potentiometer (to simulate a throttle position sensor) and some hook-up wire.
If you have one, a signal generator (or
oscillator) can be used to check the
speed signal detection. It’s then just
a matter of following the procedure
set out below.
Step 1: install LK1 and adjust VR1,
VR2 and VR3 fully anticlockwise. This
will set the Logging Period to 64s, the
Retrigger Period to 0s and the Adaptation to its minimum setting.
Step 2: remove LK1 and adjust VR1
fully clockwise to set the multiplier
to x2.
Step 3: set VR2 about 1/4 of a turn
clockwise and VR3 about 3/4 of a turn
clockwise.
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
10nF
1nF
mF Code IEC Code EIA Code
0.1mF
100n
104
.01mF
10n
103
.001mF 1nF
102
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
1
3
1
10
1
1
Value
1MW
510kW
10kW
3.9kW
1kW
100W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
green brown yellow brown
brown black orange brown
orange white red brown
brown black red brown
brown black brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
green brown black orange brown
brown black black red brown
orange white black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
January 2007 35
Fig.6: this is the test set-up for the controller board. The 10kW potentiometer simulates the throttle sensor, while an
external oscillator is used to simulate the speedometer signal input.
and press the compressor flag switch
for about 16s. At the end of 16s, release it for 16s, then press it again for
another 16s and release it for 16s. This
will build up an on-off duty cycle log
of the compressor flag signal over the
64s logging period.
Step 10: release the compressor flag
switch during low throttle (ie, low
throttle LED lit). Check that the compressor flag LED extinguishes, while
the compressor drive LED stays lit for
a short period before it too switches
Table 3: Modes
Mode
Link LK2 Speed Signal
High
Out
Required
Medium
In
Not Required
Low
Out
Not Required
off. This is the cool down period and
will not be initiated again until the
compressor drive flag goes from low
to high again (ie, by releasing and then
pressing the compressor flag switch).
Step 11: press the override switch
(S1) and check that the override LED
lights. The compressor output LED
should now light whenever the compressor flag LED lights (ie, when S2 is
pressed). This should happen for any
potentiometer setting and regardless
as to whether the oscillator (speed)
signal is on off. This override should
continue for two minutes.
Assuming that everything checks
out, the finished PC board can be
installed in a UB3 box by clipping it
into the integral side pillars. The indicator LEDs protrude through matching holes in the lid and these can be
drilled using the front-panel artwork
Table 4: Setting The Trimpots
Link LK1
Out
In
VR1
VR2
VR3
VR4
Multiplier
Low throttle
High throttle
(anticlockwise x
threshold
(anticlockwise
1, clockwise x 2 (anticlockwise 0V, clockwise 5V
in 0.8% steps) 0V, clockwise 5V at pin 12 in 255
at pin 12 in 255
steps)
steps)
Speed signal
sensitivity
(Anticlockwise
low sensitivity,
clockwise
maximum
sensitivity)
Adaptation
(anticlockwise
no adaptation,
clockwise
maximum in 16
steps)
Speed signal
sensitivity
(anticlockwise
low sensitivity,
clockwise
maximum
sensitivity)
36 Silicon Chip
Logging period
(anticlockwise
64 seconds,
clockwise 16
minutes in 64
second steps)
Retrigger period
(anticlockwise
0 seconds,
clockwise 15
seconds in 1
second steps)
as a template – see Fig.7. You will also
have to drill holes at either end of the
box to pass the external wiring to the
terminal blocks.
Installation
Fig.3 shows the installation details.
First, you will need to trace some of
the connections in your car’s wiring.
The speedometer signal wire will
need to be located, as will the throttle
position sensor and compressor drive
wiring. That means that a copy of your
car’s wiring diagram is an absolute
necessity.
In addition, you will need to locate
a +12V ignition terminal (ie, a wiring
point that only goes to +12V when
the ignition is on). This can easily be
located inside the fuse box. If you don’t
intend to use the speed signal input in
Medium Mode (ie, you don’t want the
compressor to automatically cut out
when the vehicle stops), install link
LK2 on the PC board – see Table 3.
Once you’ve located the throttle
position sensor lead, use a multimeter
to determine its output voltage range.
Normally it covers the range from
just above 0V at idle throttle position
through to about 5V at full throttle.
It’s just a matter of turning the ignition on (but not starting the engine)
and then adjusting the accelerator
position while you make the voltage
measurements.
If the voltage is above about 6V with
high throttle, install resistor R1 on the
PC board. If it is around 6V or less, the
resistor can be left out.
siliconchip.com.au
What If The Compressor Runs All The Time?
Parts List
Some car air conditioners are not thermostatically controlled, which
means that the compressor runs continuously while ever the air-conditioner
is switched on.
In this case, there’s not much point in logging the compressor flag signal
since it will be high all the time. As a result, you will not be able to use the
controller’s extended cool-down feature. The controller can still be used to
automatically switch off the compressor when the vehicle is accelerating (high
throttle) and when the vehicle is stopped, however.
Alternatively, you might want to consider using the SILICON CHIP Voltage
Switch to simply switch off the compressor under high-throttle conditions. This
circuit was published in “Performance Electronics for Cars” and is simpler (and
cheaper) than the controller featured here. Note, however, that the on-board
relay used in the Simple Voltage Switch will NOT be suitable for switching the
compressor on and off. Substitute a 30A horn relay as specified in this article.
Finally, be sure to set the hysteresis wide enough to prevent the compressor from rapidly switching on and off.
1 PC board, code 05101071,
107 x 61mm
1 UB3 box, 130 x 68 x 44mm
1 SPST momentary panel switch
2 30A SPST horn relays (Relay2
optional; see text) (Jaycar SY4068 or equivalent)
2 30A horn relay bases (one
optional; see text) (Jaycar SY4069 or equivalent)
1 3-way PC-mount screw terminal
block, 5.08mm spacing
4 2-way PC-mount screw terminal
blocks, 5.08mm spacing
4 10kΩ horizontal mount trimpots
(VR1-VR4) (code 103)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 M3 x 6mm screw
1 M3 nut
In addition, the wiring to the condenser fan needs to be checked out.
Fig.2 shows the two possible wiring
configurations, while Fig.3 shows how
each configuration is connected to the
controller.
Note that the 85, 86, 30 & 87 numbers in Fig.3 refer to the connections
marked on the relay for the coil and
the relay contacts. Note also the Relay2
is not required if the condenser fan is
connected directly across the compressor and its series pressure switch.
Be sure to use 30A automotive horn
relays, as specified in the parts list.
These can be bolted to the chassis and
plugged into the specified bases. The
wires from the relay bases are then
lengthened and spliced into the car’s
wiring using insulated automotive
crimp connectors.
Similarly, use automotive connectors to make the connections to the
sensors, the +12V and 0V (chassis)
supply connections and to the override switch. If you have an older car,
the latter can be installed on the dashboard. On more modern cars, it can be
hidden under the dash but should still
be readily accessible.
Note that the ignition-switched
+12V supply to the controller should
not go to 0V when the starter motor
is cranked.
Pressure switch
What ever you do, make sure that
the pressure switch is included in
series with the compressor – see Fig.2
& Fig.3. It’s there to independently
siliconchip.com.au
24V Operation
Want to operate this unit from
a 24V supply? It’s just a matter of
changing a few component values,
as follows: ZD1-ZD4 should be
33V 1W zener diodes; the 470mF
capacitor at the input to REG1
should be rated at 35V; the 100mF
capacitor decoupling the relay
supply should be rated at 35V; if
R1 is needed it should be 220kW;
and finally, the relays must have
24V coils.
switch off the compressor to prevent
icing when necessary. Note also that
you will need to initially wire the Air
Conditioner Controller so that it can
be accessed for easy adjustment. After
you are satisfied with the adjustments,
it can later be tucked up out of the way
under the dashboard.
Adjustments
Once the installation is complete,
you need to go through the following
steps:
Step 1: Switch on the ignition so that
power is applied to the Air Conditioner Controller.
Step 2: Press the accelerator down
very slightly and adjust VR2 (with
LK1 out) so that the Low-Throttle LED
just lights.
Step 3: Press the accelerator down to
the position you normally use for brisk
acceleration (or for going up hills) and
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88 microcontroller
programmed with aircon.hex
(IC1)
3 BC337 NPN transistors (Q1-Q3)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
3 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D3)
3 16V 1W zener diodes (ZD1-ZD3)
2 3mm red high-intensity LEDs
(LED1,LED6)
4 3mm green high-intensity
LEDs (LED2-LED5)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
4 100nF MKT polyester
1 10nF MKT polyester
1 1nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
10 1kΩ
1 510kΩ (R1)
1 100Ω
3 10kΩ
1 10Ω
1 3.9kΩ
Miscellaneous
Automotive wire, connectors.
adjust VR3 so the High-Throttle LED
just lights.
Step 4: Install LK1 and adjust the adaptation control (VR1) to fully anticlockwise, the logging period (VR2) to 5
minutes (about 1/3 of a turn clockwise)
and the retrigger (VR3) to mid-way
for about 7.5s. For a longer retrigger
period, set VR3 fully clockwise. If you
are not concerned about the compresJanuary 2007 37
This Unit Doesn’t Suit All Cars
Warning!
This Air Conditioner Controller is designed to work with cars that have a
throttle position sensor that delivers a voltage dependent on throttle position. This type of sensor is normally installed in cars that use electronic fuel
injection and engine management. Cars with a carburettor fuel system are
unlikely to include a throttle position sensor.
Cars with a carburettor could, however, be modified to include a potentiometer that is operated by the throttle. A long life potentiometer would be required,
such as one available from Farnell Cat. 469-9518 (www.farnellinone.com.
au). This is a Vishay 10kW linear conductive plastic potentiometer rated for
five million operations and 125°C. A 5V supply for the high throttle end of the
potentiometer could be obtained from the 5V output of REG1. The 0V signal
could be obtained from the 0V input or the chassis.
The potentiometer’s wiper provides the throttle position voltage. Note that
a low voltage output should coincide with a low throttle, while a high voltage
output should be produced at high throttle positions.
The speed signal must be derived from a signal pulse train that’s fed out of
the engine management computer (ECU); eg, the speedometer signal – see
warning panel. Alternatively, if the ECU doesn’t have a speed signal input, a
signal can be derived directly from the speedometer sensor. A cable-operated
speedometer is usually not suitable unless the speedometer outputs a signal
for the engine management computer.
A speed signal could also be derived from the drive shaft using a magnet
and coil in a similar manner to that used in the Speed Alarm published in
SILICON CHIP in November and December 1999.
Be sure to derive the speed
signal for this unit from your car’s
speedometer signal – ie, from an
output from the engine management computer (ECU). DO NOT
tap into a speed sensor signal
that’s used as an input to the
ECU.
The reason for this is that many
cars now have anti-lock braking
(ABS), traction control, electronic
stability control and other systems that rely on speed sensor
signals to the ECU. Tapping into
one of these signals could upset
the operation of these important
systems.
sor rapidly switching on and off, then
set VR3 fully anticlockwise.
Test drive
It’s now time for a test drive, to see
how the controller performs. Here’s
the procedure:
Step 1: Start the car and turn the airconditioner on, then lift the bonnet
and check that the condenser fan runs
correctly with its new wiring.
Step 2: Drive the car. When the com-
pressor flag LED goes out, the cabin
will have cooled to the thermostat setting. When it does, press the override
switch to allow the compressor flag
signal to be logged without the controller’s high load and low throttle settings
affecting the compressor drive.
Note: the override switch is not
normally used to allow the logging of
the compressor flag signal. It’s simply
used during this initial adjustment
procedure to make setting-up much
Fig.7: this full-size artwork can be used as a drilling template for the front panel.
38 Silicon Chip
faster and more predictable.
Step 3: During the override period,
watch the compressor action. There
may be long periods that the compressor is on and long periods where it is
off. You need to set the logging period
so that it’s long enough to cover at least
several compressor flag on and off
cycles. This is done using VR2 with
LK1 installed – see Table 4.
Step 4: Observe the Low and HighThrottle LEDs. You may need to
readjust the settings here to suit your
driving style. For example, the high
throttle LED may not light at the required acceleration rate. Alternatively,
it may light when simply cruising, in
which case VR3 should be adjusted
further clockwise (LK1 out).
If the low throttle LED lights under
cruise conditions, turn VR2 further
anticlockwise to correct this.
Step 5: If you needed to alter the logging period in step 3, press the override switch again. When the override
period expires, check the cool down
operation on low throttle. Adjust VR1
for the required multiplier effect (LK1
out).
Note: setting VR1 fully anticlockwise disables the cool down feature,
while fully clockwise gives a long cool
down period.
Step 6: Set the adaptation level for personal preference using VR1 (LK1 in).
And that’s it, although you may need
to do some further fine-tuning later on
based on further driving experience.
In the meantime, you can enjoy the
performance benefits of your new
“intelligent” air-conditioner.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
DRM down-converter
for 455kHz IF receivers
This project came about due to my
interest in a new form of radio transmission called DRM, which stands
for “Digital Radio Mondiale” (see
www.drm.org). This is a new form
of digital shortwave transmission.
A few devices are available from
Europe for decoding the digital
signals but are expensive. I decided
instead to modify an existing circuit,
using a stable purpose-built 470kHz
ceramic resonator as the oscillator,
rather than the original unstable
L/C version.
The 455kHz IF signal from a shortwave receiver is fed into the input
(pin 1) of a double-balanced mixer
and oscillator (IC1) via a level adjustment pot (VR1). The NE506’s output
(pin 4) is then AC-coupled to a PC’s
sound card input for processing.
With the capacitor between pins 5
& 7 set to 150pF, the oscillator frequency should be around 467.5kHz.
You can check if the oscillator is
working by putting it near a receiver
tuned to 467kHz. You should hear a
beat frequency.
The IF signal of 455kHz is mixed
with 467kHz, giving an output with
a centre frequency of 12kHz. Sound
cards should have no trouble sampling the 10kHz-wide DRM signal.
A number of software-defined radio
applications were found to work
well with this converter. These
applications perform all of the demodulation (SSB, AM, FM, etc) and
various other DSP functions.
If all is well, connect your 455kHz
IF to the input and your computer
sound card to the output. Run
the Dream software (see http://
drm.sourceforge.net), and tune to
6095Khz (RNZI), or 1440Khz (SBS).
You should see the Dream software
lock onto the DRM transmission and
audio should start playing from the
computer speakers.
The NE602AN mixer/oscillator
and 470kHz resonator are available
for a cost of $12.50 - email the author for more details at jwtitmus<at>
bigpond.com. A CD with various
software defined receivers as well as
the latest Dream software decoder is
also available.
John Titmuss, VK4JWT. ($40)
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we
pay good money for
each of the “Circuit
Notebook” items published in SILICON CHIP.
But now there are four
more reasons to send
in your circuit idea.
Each month, the
best contribution
published will entitle the author to
choose the prize: an LCR40
LCR
meter, a DCA55 Semiconductor Component Analyser, an ESR60 Equivalent
Series Resistance Analyser or an
siliconchip.com.au
SCR100 Thyristor & Triac Analyser,
with the compliments of Peak Electronic
Design Ltd www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in. Send it
to SILICON CHIP and you could be a
winner.
You can either email your idea to
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it
to PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
January 2007 39
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Mechanical soldering
iron timer
A timer mechanism salvaged
from a defunct clothes dryer makes
an ideal soldering iron timer. With
a maximum run time of two hours,
it uses no power in standby, has no
microcontroller or menu system
and doesn’t need batteries! To boot,
it makes a loud audible click when
it switches off, at which time if you
are still using the iron a quick twist
of the knob keeps the iron hot!
No modifications are needed to
the timer and it fits neatly into a
typical redundant plugpack housing after the original transformer
has been discarded. Use a 3-pin
(not 2-pin) plugpack housing so
that the mains earth connection can
be retained.
The only additional components
needed are a 240V mains outlet
socket, which is fitted to the bottom
of the plugpack housing, and a neon
indicator. The original knob can
be reused or a fancier unit (which
must be insulated; ie, plastic) can be
sourced from the usual electronics
outlets. You can even make up a
professional looking label like that
shown in the photos with a bit of
work in your favourite graphics
program!
Cable for the internal wiring job
can be scavenged from a section of
7A or 10A mains flex. The Neutral
and Earth pins in the plugpack
housing are wired directly to the
mains outlet socket, whereas the
Active pin goes to the common
terminal on the timer. Another
connection is then made from a
switched terminal on the timer to
the Active terminal on the mains
outlet socket.
Usually, there are two sets of
switch
ed terminals on the timer
mechanism; one set go to the fan
motor, while the other set go to
the heater. The fan motor contacts
close as soon as the timer is activated, whereas the heater contacts
don’t close until the timer is set to
more than 10 minutes or so. This
provides the usual cool-down period at the end of a drying cycle.
Use the fan motor contacts for this
application.
This photo shows the author’s
finished prototype and the
mechanical timer. Be sure to use a
3-pin plugpack case, to provide for
mains earthing at the outlet socket.
Note that if you’re reusing a typical 90V neon scavenged from old
equipment, then you’ll need to add
a 220kW dropping resistor in series.
Off-the-shelf 240VAC neon indicators have this resistor built in. The
neon is wired across the switched
Active and Neutral lines.
Finally, don’t attempt to build
this device unless you are experienced at working with mains
voltages and understand exactly
what you are doing.
Ron Russo,
Kirwan, Qld. ($40)
Toslink
splitter
Here’s a simple
circuit that allows
the single Toslink
(digital optical)
output present on
recent appliances
such as DVD recorders to be split
into two identical
outputs. It uses a
Toslink receiver
and two Toslink
transmitter units
from Jaycar Electronics, Cat. ZL3002 and ZL-3000, respectively.
The Toslink units require a regulated 3V supply, which in this case
is provided by a programmable
3-terminal regulator (REG1). This allows the circuit to be powered from
an unregulated 6-12V DC plugpack.
40 Silicon Chip
If a regulated supply is available,
the circuit could be simplified by
replacing the series regulator with
a simple shunt regulator comprised
of a 3.3V zener diode, a limiting
resistor and a 10uF filter capacitor.
The prototype was constructed
on a small piece of stripboard. If required, it should be possible to add
more transmitter units in parallel, up
to the limit of the drive capabilities
of the receiver’s digital output.
Mike Abrams,
Capalaba, Qld. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
Telephone intercom
offers privacy
Recently a local Amateur Dramatic Society requested an intercom to
operate between back-stage and the
lights and sound control booth. For
this application, voice levels must
be inaudible to the audience, while
at other times loud enough to be
heard above the house music.
The usual over-the-counter intercoms proved unsuitable, as they
all seem to employ an open system
with no privacy. In contrast, the
accompanying circuit offers normal
phone conversation between two
points and even whispered communication when necessary.
As you can see, the circuit is
based around a simple interconnection between two standard tele
phones via a standard telephone
cable. This idea was lifted from a
Circuit Notebook item published
several years ago. The embellishments consist of a silent signalling
circuit, plus an optional low-level
auditory call function.
When power is applied, a 555
timer (IC1) operates continually,
providing a low-frequency square
wave to the base of Q1, while the
remainder of the circuit is passive.
On lifting either handset, that station draws current and excites the
associated relay (RLY1 or RLY2). For
example, if the operator at Station
B presses S2 to call Station A, RLY2
closes, flashing the LEDs in both the
local and remote stations.
This condition is maintained
until Station A picks up. Now
RLY1 closes as well, pulling the
555’s reset input (pin 4) low via
RLY1a & RLY1b’s contacts. Thus
the LEDs stop flashing but remain
illuminated.
Pressing either switch S1 or
S2 results in the opposite buzzer
sounding, regardless as to whether
either handset is lifted. The circuit
is symmetrical, so the reverse situation (A calls B) is obvious.
Zener diode ZD1 reduces the
voltage across the 555 to less than
18V, needed here because the
unregulated DC supply puts out
around 26V unloaded.
Brian Critchley,
Elanora Heights, NSW.
siliconchip.com.au
Brian C
ri
is this m tchley
on
winner th’s
Peak At of a
las
Instrum Test
ent
January 2007 41
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Versatile multi-driver
speaker connections
Many speaker enclosures used for
public address systems or musical
instruments contain pairs of identical speakers. Sometimes it is useful
to be able to choose if these speakers are to be operated in series or
parallel, or even to be able to drive
the enclosure from a stereo source.
Such flexibility is particularly
useful when a number of different
speakers and amplifiers are used
together in various combinations.
For example, an enclosure containing two 50W 8W drivers could
be operated with the speakers connected in parallel when driven by
a 100W 4W-capable amplifier or in
series when driven by a 200W 8Wcapable amplifier. In latter case, the
amplifier sees only 16W and so can
drive a further 100W 16W load.
When wired as shown, Cliffstyle switching 6.5mm sockets
(one stereo, one mono) allow either
series, parallel or stereo connection to two loudspeakers in a single
enclosure.
When the “Parallel” socket is
used alone, the switch contacts in
42 Silicon Chip
the “Series” socket remain closed
and those in the “Parallel” socket
open. This results in “Speaker 1”
and “Speaker 2” being connected
in parallel. Note that if a stereo plug
is used in the “Parallel” socket,
the ring and sleeve will be shorted
together.
When the “Series” socket is used
alone, the switch contacts in the
“Parallel” socket remain closed and
those in the “Series” socket open.
This results in the two speakers being connected in series. If a stereo
plug is used, the ring is left open
circuit.
Stereo operation
The two sockets can also be used
simultaneously to provide a stereo
drive signal to the enclosure, with
each signal driving one of the speakers. In this case all switch contacts
in the two sockets will be open.
This mode only works when using
a mono plug in the “Parallel” socket
because the negative connection to
“Speaker 2” is made via the short
created between the ring and sleeve
of the plug.
Warning: in stereo mode, the
positive signals on the two input
sockets remain isolated from each
other but the negative signals are
connected together. Therefore, the
stereo connection should only be
used when driven from a dualchannel amplifier that has a common return for the two channels. It
must not be used with bridge-output
amplifiers and generally should
not be used with two separate
mono amplifiers having individual
speaker returns.
In summary: (1) select either
series or parallel mono operation
by inserting a single plug in the
appropriate socket; (2) use mono
plugs in all cases (recommended);
and (3) to drive the enclosure from
a stereo source, always use a stereo
amplifier having a common speaker
return, feeding the left signal to
one socket and the right signal to
the other.
When no plugs are inserted, all
four speaker terminals are shorted
together, providing the advantage
of self-damping during transport.
However, this will present a problem in applications where several
other types of connectors must also
be wired in parallel with the speakers.
To use these other connectors,
insert an open-circuit mono or stereo plug into the “Parallel” socket.
Doing so will leave the two speakers
connected together in parallel via
the contacts of the “Series” socket.
To completely isolate the two speakers, insert an open-circuit stereo
plug in the “Parallel” socket and an
open-circuit mono or stereo plug in
the “Series” socket.
Be aware that 6.5mm phone
plugs/sockets are not the optimum
solution for high-power loudspeak
er connections, despite their use
for this purpose in some applications. Additionally, note that these
sockets are not airtight. If used in
enclosures that require sealing,
enclose the rear of the sockets in a
plastic “Zippy” box or similar.
Finally, be sure to label the
sockets appropriately. Markings of
“S” and “P” may have alternative
interpretations - especially to those
more inclined to culinary rather
than electronic pursuits!
Andrew West,
Brisbane, Qld. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
3-digit LED
stopwatch
Here’s a fun stopwatch that counts
up to 9 minutes, 60 seconds on a
3-digit 7-segment LED display. It’s
driven by the Schools Experimenter
board which was described in May
2005 and is still available as a kit
from MicroZed Computers (www.
microzed.com.au). However, any
basic PICAXE-08 circuit with a programming interface, power supply
and push-button switch on input3
could be substituted.
The three displays are driven by
4026B decade counter/7-segment decoders (IC1-IC3). This same scheme
was also used in the “PICAXE Powered Thermostat” project published
in February 2006.
Pressing the switch on the Schools
Experimenter board resets the count
to zero, while a second press starts
the count running. Each pulse on the
PIN2 output advances IC1’s count
by one. Once its count reaches “9”,
a subsequent pulse rolls the count
over to “0” and generates a pulse
at the “Carry out” pin. This in turn
advances the following stage (IC2)
by pulsing its “Clk” input.
The minutes counter (IC3) oper-
ates in a similar manner, although
the BASIC program must execute
a simple routine to advance the
minutes count when the seconds
count reaches 60 rather than 99!
The PIN1 output is set high at the
1-minute mark and is used to drive
the decimal point in the minutes
display (DISP3).
Note that if a piezo sounder is also
connected to PIN2, the stopwatch
will “tick” every second and “beep”
every minute. Pressing the switch a
third time freezes the count.
The timing for the circuit relies
on the PICAXE’s internal oscillator,
which gives an accuracy of about
±1s within the 10-minute period
(at 22°C). Altering any of the pause
statements will cause a drift away
from optimum timing.
Michael Jeffery,
Porepunkah, Vic. ($50)
Listing: Stopwatch.bas
symbol mins = b0
tick:
pause 998
ready:
low 1
b1 = 0
pause 250
if pin3 = 1 then reset
goto ready
reset:
high 0
low 0
pause 200
if pin3 = 1 then start
goto reset
start:
if pin3 = 1 then tick
goto start
siliconchip.com.au
tick2:
if pin3 = 1 then ready
pause 164
goto tick3
'reset the counters
minsjump:
pause 140
tick3:
high 2
low 2
if pin3 = 1 then ready
pause 165
if pin3 = 1 then ready
pause 164
if pin3 = 1 then ready
'stop if switch pressed again
pause 164
if pin3 = 1 then ready
pause 164
if pin3 = 1 then ready
pause 165
b1 = 1 + b1
if b1 = 60 then minute
goto tick2
minute:
b2 = b2 + b1 - 59
b1 = 0
for mins = 1 to 40
high 2
low 2
next mins
high 1
if b2 = 10 then ready
goto minsjump
January 2007 43
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
It’s no wonder I get aggravated
You would think that changing a few lamps in
a car stereo system would be simple enough,
wouldn’t you? Here’s what happened when
Muggins tackled the job . . . plus there’s some
more warranty stories from a contributor.
This story started when a friend
bought a secondhand 1999 Mitsubishi Pajero which had a Clarion Alpha
ARX3371 Radio/Tape/6x CD635 stacker. The whole car was pretty schmick
but there was no display on the radio
control panel.
The front escutcheon was one of
those security removal types. All I
had to do was undo the screws from
its rear and replace the three blue and
two green lamps with new ones.
I assumed they were all 12V 60mA
3mm types, even though the supply
measured only 9V. The higher voltage rating of the lamps helped ensure
long life and the 9V versions wouldn’t
be that much brighter. The lamps are
obtainable from WES Components and
I swapped the coloured covers from
the faulty ones.
When I finished, I cleaned the
solder flux off with methylated spirits. I then screwed the back on the
module and plugged it into the radio,
only to find that the entire radio was
now completely dead. And to add
insult to injury, there was still no
illumination.
Items Covered This Month
•
Clarion Alpha ARX3371 Car
Radio/Tape/6x CD635 stacker
•
•
Teac TV set CT-M342HW
JVC AV-29LS TV set (-AU) CH
chassis
•
LG CT29M30V TV set
(MC022A chassis)
•
Sanyo CP29AF2X-50 TV set
(FC3-G2 chassis)
44 Silicon Chip
I didn’t think I had made any mistakes on this routine bit of service so
I was really annoyed at this turn of
events. However, cursing wasn’t going
to get it fixed, so I checked the car’s
fuses and even removed the whole
radio from its DIN casing to check the
line fuse behind it but they were all
OK. What’s more, I could still measure
+9V and +5V on the connector to the
detachable front control escutcheon.
Thinking I must have done something wrong, I disassembled it again
and checked my work but everything
looked OK. The soldering on some
other parts looked a bit dodgy though,
so I reworked the whole board. This
didn’t help and I was beginning to
think I had destroyed the surfacemounted microcontroller IC in the
centre of the board, perhaps by zapping it with an electrostatic charge
during handling.
It was time to seek help from other
technicians in the industry and eventually someone gave me a small clue.
On JVC and Mitsubishi car stereos,
some of the so-called “tact” switches
give trouble and have to be replaced,
so I decided to give the switches on
my panel a squirt with contact spray.
Initially nothing happened when I
reassembled it and tried again but
then suddenly, after repeated button
pressings, it began to respond intermittently. Encouraged by this, I feverishly
pressed the buttons repeatedly and
after a while the whole radio began
working normally.
So what had happened? Well, I suspect when I had used metho to clean
the solder flux off the PC board, I had
inadvertently contaminated the “tact”
switches, so that several appeared to
be on simultaneously. This in turn
prevented the microcontroller from
resetting and switching the set on.
It’s worth recalling that during the
early 1970s, many colour TVs (particularly German) used touch sensors
to select channels. These consisted of
two closely spaced metal plates which
eventually got dirty from continuous
use. As a result, the touch sensors
eventually refused to work and would
“stick” in an on or off position, especially on humid days.
We used to clean them with a
toothbrush and a solvent. However,
we soon discovered that methylated
spirits only made the situation worse,
as it left a conductive film (it has an
impurity to make it unpleasant to
drink, I believe). In the end, we found
that using CRC 2-26 to clean the dirt
off was the best solution.
The dull Teac
I recently had another Teac CTM342HW come in, the owner complaining of a dull unfocussed picture
with smearing.
It was very apparent the picture tube
had gone low emission, this being due
to the fact that the filament voltage had
gone way too high. The B+ rail had
gone well above +110V and the reason
for this was that capacitors C908 and
C909 had dried out.
I gave it a tickle with the CRT rejuvenator and this proved to be quite
successful, except that there was no
sound or picture on TV or AV. All the
on-screen displays were there, however, except volume. A quick check
showed that the set was not stuck in
the “hotel” mode, while the remote
control functions all worked.
I checked the voltage rails and
all were OK. I then changed C917
(100mF 160V) and all the electros on
the low-voltage lines but this made
no difference.
Next, because the jungle IC101
(TB1238N) processes just about every
thing to do with both sound and picture, I thought it to be a good idea to
siliconchip.com.au
that it suddenly decreased by 2.5V
near a plastic cable tie. Scraping the
PC board lacquer away revealed a fine
hairline crack across the data lines
and bridging this brought the set back
to life.
Weird interference
replace it. Again, it made no difference
so I then replaced the EEPROM (IC602,
M24CO4B6) but it was still no good.
By now, I was beginning to get aggravated – you would have thought
that a cheap 34cm TV would be pretty
straightforward.
I then got serious and measured
every pin on the jungle IC101. Most
told me what I already knew – ie,
that there was no sound or picture.
siliconchip.com.au
However, when I reached pins 26 &
27 – the I2C SCL and SDA data lines,
respectively – there was only 2.5V on
each whereas they should have been
+5V. I then went to the microcontroller
(IC601) and found +5V on pins 36
& 37. So 2.5V was going “missing”
somewhere on a low current data lines.
Well, you can probably guess the
rest. I followed the PC pattern around
past the buffer resistors until I found
Mrs Thompson complained that her
2001 JVC AV-29LS (-AU) TV set (CH
chassis) was getting all sorts of weird
interference. When I arrived, the set
was already switched on and I was
able to observe ringing and a buzzing
noise in the sound, both on TV and AV.
I was pretty sure that this was a problem with the TV itself and decided to
take it back to the workshop to confirm
this. However, when I subsequently
switched it on back at the ranch, both
sound and picture were excellent and
it initially looked like I had misdiagnosed the problem.
Fortunately, as the set warmed up,
the symptoms started to show. And the
longer the set was on, the worse it got,
the symptoms indicating a problem in
the power supply.
I removed the back and decided
to give the set the freezer treatment,
since the problem appeared to be
heat related. I got out the freezer and
started blasting all over the set but
there was no reaction. Nor did heating
the chassis with a heat gun change the
symptoms.
This really was puzzling since the
set was OK when cold and lousy when
hot. So what was going on? The oscilloscope was definitely showing AC
interference on almost all the B+ rails
but especially on the +9V and +15V
January 2007 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
rails, which are generated by IC974
(BA51W12ST-VS). This 5-pin IC regulator has been known to give problems
when R969 (2.7W) in the output goes
high but in this case, it was spot on
and was totally unaffected by heating
and freezing.
I was about to give up on the wretched thing for the day when I noticed
another capacitor across C969 to pin
2 of IC974. This was soldered underneath the chassis making it difficult
to access but I still managed to give
it the heating and freezing treatment.
This time the response was immediate, the symptoms changing to order.
Replacing the capacitor did the trick.
The set was now performing OK and
so we let it go at that.
Self-inflicted injury
A neighbour of sorts brought in his
LG CT29M30V (MC022A chassis) TV
complaining of no sound. He felt like
a real dill because it had happened
when he had incorrectly connected his
DVD player to the TV monitor output
AV sockets.
I told him not to be so hard on himself as the TV should really have been
able to handle this sort of mistake.
In fact, I really couldn’t see how this
could have caused damage, so perhaps
there was some other problem.
Unfortunately, it turned out that
the set had been damaged. It had
46 Silicon Chip
lost not only AV sound but also the
sound when operated in TV mode. I
ran my fingers over IC602 (TDA7297)
while the set was on and heard buzzing noises in the loudspeaker which
indicated that the audio amplifiers
were still OK. However, there was no
response from IC661 (MSP3460G), the
52-pin sound processor.
This IC is fed by three voltage rails
(9V, 5V and 3.3V) to five different pins.
I checked these and found that pin 33
was very low at +2V when it should
have been at +8.2V. The 9V rail was
OK as was R629 (91W), so suspicion
fell on 8.2V zener diode ZD610 which
I replaced.
This made no difference and it was
only when I desoldered pin 33 that the
voltage rose to 8.2V.
Replacing the IC fixed the problem.
I can’t explain why the IC blew
when the DVD was connected to the
monitor outputs, especially as they are
capacitively-coupled to the IC. I wasn’t
game to try it again but I checked the
capacitors as being OK.
Disgruntled customer
A testy Mr Brentwood brought in
his 2004 Sanyo CP29AF2X-50 TV
set which uses an FC3-G2 chassis,
complaining that it was dead. He was
somewhat belligerent about it as the
set was only just out of warranty.
When I got to examine it, I found
that everything looked pretty well OK
but the set just wouldn’t start. I spent
a great deal of time following various
red herrings until I tried disconnecting the CRT board, after which the set
finally fired up.
Believing I was now on the home
run I checked or replaced almost
every component on the CRT board,
which uses a TDA6103 video output
IC. I have written before about a zener
diode on pin 5 on the VIP line but this
set doesn’t have a feedback rail to the
jungle IC.
Unfortunately, this work made
no difference and after a long time I
eventually conceded there was nothing wrong with the CRT board or the
CRT. What I did eventually discover
was that there is a “protect” line coming off the CRT heater supply from the
flyback transformer. This line has a
zener diode D476 in series with it and
replacing it allowed the set to come on
and give sound and picture.
Unfortunately, this also revealed
that the picture was too large and overscanned the CRT, even though the B+
was spot on at +130V. Once again, I
carefully examined the EHT section,
especially the tuning capacitors on the
collector of line output transistor Q432
but nothing showed up as faulty.
I then realised I had fitted a 6.2V
zener diode for D476 instead of the
correct 6.8V type. However, fitting the
correct part reproduced the original
fault. I then checked the original zener
diode out of circuit to find that it was
perfectly OK.
By now I was getting aggravated
again so I took a short break. When I
returned, I decided to check the EHT
only to find it was very low at about
15kV. The tuning capacitors were all
OK, so I figured it had to be the flyback
transformer. A new one completely
fixed the problem but Mr Brentwood
wasn’t happy about the cost.
More warranty stories
Finally, here are some more interesting warranty stories from a contributor in response to my stories in the
September 2006 issue. I’ll let B. W.
tell them in his own words:
I have long been involved with the
electric (rather than the electronic)
side of servicing and can well and
truly identify with the stories told in
Serviceman’s Log for September 2006.
First, some advice to those who are
siliconchip.com.au
bringing in a “Tool In A Bucket” (the common way of
bringing in a tool in pieces). If you have to present a
tool in this condition, at least let the (mostly male) staff
have a bit of enjoyment and spare yourself some embarrassment by finding a young lady, preferably blonde,
to deliver the tool. The less the deliverer knows of the
tool’s history, the better. The repairer will have to work
from the exploded parts diagram and, depending on the
time taken, you will may be charged 60-75% of the new
tool cost. Even then, the repairer will not be making a
huge profit!
A variation on the “Tool In A Bucket” is where the
customer opens with “You got brushes, mate?” Invariably, he then produces a badly worn set of brushes.
“What are they out of?”
“A drill!”
“What brand and model?”
“Dunno. Let me see what you’ve got and I will pick
the correct type!”
If only it was that simple. Makita, for example, use
about 100 different brush sets which vary in composition as well as size (depending on current and voltage
requirements). In addition, some brushes have leads of
varying types and some have springs integrated with
the brush. And some even have “safety cut-outs” for
the upmarket professional tools, so he has no hope of
choosing the correct type.
We were warranty agents for six other brands as well
and almost all the brushes are packed in identicallysized boxes. Often too, the customer’s brushes will show
severe arcing on one side, so the armature is also U/S.
In fact, we have sold brushes where the customer knew
the make and model, only to have the customer return
in a week because the new brushes have failed due to
a crook armature!
We had a similar experience to the generator and chain
story. I sold an air compressor and then, a week later,
an identical unit to the same customer. On the road, the
wheels fell off the first unit, as did the pump. The tank
was ruined but the motor survived without a scratch!
The customer was not embarrassed but blamed it on
working with a certain ethnic group who like red wine
for morning smoko and for lunch! (Job sites can be cold
on a winter morning!)
Chainsaws? I fixed a brand new one on the counter,
siliconchip.com.au
January 2007 47
was severely corroded but the manufacturer said to exchange it and warn
the customer to be more careful with
the water. That motor also lasted three
months! The manufacturer again said
to exchange it, against my recommendation!
Three months later, the customer
was back, this time for a new mixer.
The old mixer’s bowl had failed! From
discussion, it turned out that he was
washing oysters in the mixer and had
sea water flowing through the bowl
which was then sloshing over other
parts.
Another mixer was sold by our staff
who helped to load it onto the back of
a newish Ford F250 Dual Cab 4x4. The
customer refused the offer of a rope
to tie the mixer down. “The job’s just
around the corner”, he said and off he
went. Oops. Bang! I wonder how much
a new rear window for a Ford F250
Dual Cab 4x4 costs. Probably more
than the cost of a bit of rope I would
venture to guess!
Finally, one last incident from my
youth! I was behind the counter of a
hardware store (back in the days of
real “service”), when the woman being
served by another staff member said,
in a loud and scornful voice, “I know
these are inch, number eight screws
but my husband has written that he
wants WOOD screws and these are
STEEL!
SC
I quickly left the area.
Serviceman’s Log – continued
in front of other customers. The purchaser claimed “Initial Failure” and
I simply reversed the chain so that it
ran in the correct direction! He told me
that it should work either way!
Drills can be another problem for
some customers. Sometimes they will
not get to full speed but they have no
hope if the speed limiting screw on
the trigger is set too low.
Compressed-air nail guns do like the
correct nails. It is possible, nay, likely,
that a nail can be fired out the bottom of
the magazine towards the user’s leg if
the collation angle is for another brand
of gun! And no, we do not refund on
opened boxes of nails, sir!
That brings me to angle grinders.
The better ones have 2000W (or more)
of attitude and some customers wonder why we have a policy of not servicing them unless the safety guard is
in place (or unless they agree to allow
us to install a new one). I know from
experience that a piece off a 225mm
disk can punch through a galvanised
iron wall or chip a thigh bone (I believe
that Monash University has rated these
as the most dangerous tool in the average workshop).
What about warranty? The best
trick is to thrash the living daylights
out of a tool and when it dies out of
warranty, buy a new identical one.
Then, two weeks later, you drop in
the old tool and the new warranty
card! After all, you can always flog
off a spare tool to the apprentice or
to a mate in the pub.
We stop this little scam by putting
the serial numbers on all warranty
cards at time of sale but not all retailers do this.
Lefthand threaded bolts broken off
in circular saws are a constant delight.
Fortunately, once the bolt breaks, the
blade falls free and the stub of the
bolt can then be unscrewed by hand
if it is turned the correct way. This is
best done on the counter, in front of
witnesses, on a Saturday morning.
“That’s $1.95 thanks, sir, and make
sure that you remember the lefthand
thread next time”.
Some modifications can be downright dangerous. Double-insulated
tools lose a certain something when
a hole is drilled in the case and a
bolt put through to hold the switch
in place! After all, a few millimetres
of air between the bolt and the Active
terminal really upsets the double insulation specification.
We recently sold a cement mixer
and the customer brought the motor
only back within three months. It
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48 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Radar Speed Indicator Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip November 2006
This Doppler radar gun reads speed in km/h or
mph up to 250 km/h or 155 mph. It has a
resolution of 1 km/h or 1 mph with an accuracy
of 1%, and also has a hold switch so you can
freeze the reading. There's a Jiffy box to mount
the electronics in, and the enclosure
for the radar gun assembly is made
from 2 x coffee tins or similar.
Details included. Kit includes PCB
and all specified components.
• Requires 12VDC.
DVR with Dome and
Weatherproof Colour Cameras
The DVR is fitted with a 250GB hard drive, can
accommodate up to 4 cameras with power
derived from the DVR and will allow you to record
and view up to 4 cameras simultaneously. This
package includes the DVR with a dome
and outdoor IR camera with bracket,
mounting hardware,
power supply,
14m camera
connect
cable,
software,
USB
interface lead and user manual.
Cat. KC-5429
$
95
Cat. QV-3085
$
00
99.
Dual Channel Wireless
UHF Microphone
Car Air Conditioner Controller Kit
The unit features two
Diversity
separate
Type
channels,
one for
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microphone.
Output is
either via separate
balanced XLR socket, one for each channel, or via
an unbalanced line with the two channels mixed.
The system includes 2 microphones
Cat. AM-4078
and batteries, receiver unit, 14VDC
$
00
plugpack and one metre 6.5 mono
plug to 6.5 mono plug lead.
199.
Golf Driver AM/FM Radio
The perfect desk
accessory for the golf
enthusiast. This
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only has a stainless
steel front but also a
real golf ball and tee. The driver's shaft
controls the volume and channel selection.
• 245(L) x 125(W) x 113(H)mm
Cat. GH-1882
• Batteries not included
$
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19.
New Store in Denedin NZ!
1 Lees St.
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Ph: (03) 4717 934
NOW OPEN!
999.
Ref: Silicon Chip January 2007
This kit stops the air
conditioner in your car
from taking engine
power under
acceleration. It
will allow the
compressor to run with
low throttle even when the cabin
temperature setting has been reached
and will automatically switch the compressor off
at idle. It also features an override switch and an
LED function indicator.
Kit supplied with PCB with overlay and all
electronic components.
Cat. KC-5437
• Recommended box
$
95
UB3 HB-6013
39.
Electronic Photo Frame
Plug in your data
card and choose
how you want
your photos
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slide show, a
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You can also
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track for accompaniment,
show video clips or print your photos on a
compatible printer. The frame has a brushed silverlike finish and can be wall mounted, or displayed on
a table in landscape or portrait view. Remote
control with battery and 12VDC plugpack included.
• Dimensions: 238(L) x
Cat. QM-3759
SAVE
184(H) x 40(D)mm
$
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$50
Was $299
Its massive 100W transducer
produces millions of bubbles
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crevices, cleaning them
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automotive injectors, jewellery, glasses,
circuit boards and more. The unit features a large
display with real time count down and an easy to
operate cleaning duration setting at 5Cat. YH-5410
minute increments. Tank dimensions: $
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265(L) x 160(W) x 100(H)mm
299.
Solar Powered Garage LED light
Ideal for garages, gazebos
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features a cord-switch to
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mounting bracket, 2.4m cable and
rechargeable enclosed Ni-Cd battery.
Cat. SL-2715
$
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39.
Blue LED Analogue & Digital Clock
The segments are 48mm high and consists of 3mm
LEDs. The 200mm diameter display contains 60 x
5mm high intensity LEDs on a 60 second
illuminated circuit. Every
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starts again.
• Measures 250(L) x 250(H)
x 50(W)mm
Cat. AR-1788
• Plugpack supplied
$
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99.
Protect and Extend the Life of
Your Power Tool Rechargeable
Batteries
Ref: Silicon Chip December 2006
Enhance the performance of the charger
supplied with your
power tools with this
fantastic controller. It
incorporates charge
timeout, min and
max temperature
monitoring, Delta V
charge detection,
power and charge LED
indicator and more. Suits both Ni-Cd
and Ni-MH cells. Kit includes PCB
Cat. KC-5436
with overlay, case and all
$
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electronic components.
39.
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INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
1
Rootin' Tootin' Quick Fire
Shootin' Game
Save on USB Peripherals!
Clean up the saloon and
get rid of the bad guys
with this infrared
shooting game. It works
just like a real pistol
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includes
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Was
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Wireless USB Rechargeable Mouse
Cat. GT-3133
$
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$15
64.
29.
$10
USB Mouse with Laser Pick-up
800dpi resolution, that's double the
resolution of an optical mouse! This
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wrists by minimising the
movements
required to move Cat. XM-5133
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the cursor.
Was $39.95
Desktop Finger
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Practice your drumming
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your fingers or use the preCat. GE-4080
recorded demo track or even $
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29.
Twin-Pack 38 Channel
UHF Mini CB Radios
SAVE
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This pack of 2 mini UHF CB
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clearly in touch up to 3km. They
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an integrated blue LED torch.
• Each unit requires
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See our full
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Cat. DC-1005
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Travel Shaver
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Perfect for laptops or
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Was $39.95
Cat. XM-5134
$
95
19 Key Numeric Keypad
29.
Great for laptops! One key feature
that doesn't come with a laptop is
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compact, 'plug and play', and only
measures 67(W) x110(L) x20(H)mm.
• Keypad lead length Cat. XC-5155
700mm
$
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Was $29.95
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19.
49.
PC Companions
Includes an MP3 player, webcam and digital voice
recorder complete with the
assured picture quality
of a 6.6 megapixel video
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with 16MB of internal
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an SC/MMC external memory
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software supplied.
$20
• Requires 4 x AAA
Cat.
QC-3234
batteries (not included)
$
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Was $299.00
279.
USB Optical Mouse
with Retractable Lead
29.
The razor is housed in a sturdy case
that is easily removed to reveal
the razor and a compact
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automobiles.
• Cleaning brush and
batteries included
• Dimensions: 62(W) x
103(H) x 25(D)mm
Coughing Lung Ashtray
This is sure to help you give
up. Each time you put down
your cigarette the ashtray
coughs and splutters to
remind you how bad
smoking is for you health.
Cat. GH-1330
$
95
Connects to your USB port and headphone jack to
deliver a 4-port hub with a
multimedia speaker. When its
head is detached from the body it
converts to portable FM radio
that you can take anywhere.
• Requires 2 x AA batteries for
portable radio use (not Cat. XC-4844
included)
$
95
• Approx. 85mm high
19.
Solar Powered Calculator
with 3 Port USB Hub
Talking Alarm Clock
with Touch Light
This talking clock with nightlight will illuminate and tell you
the time all with one simple
touch. It has a stylish mouse
shaped design.
• LCD panel 21(L) x 13(H)mm
Cat. XC-0142
• Measures 80(L) x46(H) x 23(W)mm
$
95
• Battery included
14.
Rev-Olution Rev
Counter Alarm Clock
USB Missile Launcher
Miniature Golf Buggy
with LCD Alarm Clock
SAVE
49.
This miniature 1:18 scale golf
buggy with clock will make a
cherished gift for any golf
enthusiast. The windshield is an
LCD screen which has full clock
functions with a calendar and
temperature setting.
• 2 sets of miniature golf clubs
• Measures 140(L) x 75(W) x
100(H)mm
SAVE
Was $24.95
$5.00
A great gift for
the unrepentant
smoker!
Octopus Massager
This super-car inspired alarm clock
has full clock functions in a
stylish design. You will be
amazed at the true V8 engine
sound of the alarm.
• Mains power supply included
Cat. AR-1784
• Size: 130(W) x 175(D) x 100(H)mm $
95
Connected to your USB
$10
port the software will allow
you to navigate the missiles
trajectory, pan 180°, tilt up
to 45° and provide realistic
sound effects. The missiles
are made from soft foam so
it's safe to use at home or
Was $59.95
in the office.
• Not suitable for children.
Cat. GE-4072
• Replacement missiles available $
95
GE-4073 $6.95 pkt 3
19.
Relax and Unwind
It features a standard calculator
with functions for financial
calculations and connects to
your laptop or workstation for
use as an external numerical
Cat. XC-4846
keypad. It's also a
95
passive 3 port USB hub. $
39.
Cat. GH-1515
$
95
9.
Innovative Clocks
Dog Shaped USB Hub and Radio
2
The pack contains a retractable
charger to ensure the mouse
batteries are topped up.
Was $39.95
Cat. XM-5132
SAVE
$
95
6.6 Megapixel Digital Video Camera
49.
Simply press the button on its head
to activate the vibrating tentacles
and the massaging begins. Great for
the back, neck, shoulders, legs and
arms. Batteries not included
• 125mm tall Cat. GH-1752
$
95
6.
Massager Seat Cover with Heater
Enjoy some holiday
relaxation with this
relaxing back massager.
Ideal for the home,
office or even in the car.
• 6 Massage motors
with 3 intensity levels
• Mains adaptor and
cigarette socket plug
included Cat. GH-1754
$
95
49.
Water Fountain with
Six Nature Sounds
Cat. GH-1880
$
95
19.
Relax and unwind to the sounds
of nature accompanied by the
soothing sound of flowing water
with mesmerising colour
changing background lights.
• Mains adaptor included
• Measures 190(L) x 330(H) x
Cat. GH-1820
165(W)mm
$
95
59.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Kevlar Cone
Coaxial Speakers
This range of coaxial speakers offer high
performance and great looks. They have a large
super tweeter and their Kevlar cones take them
into a realm of their own.
4" 2 Way
• 40WRMS power
• 86.5dB sensitivity
5" 2 Way
• 50WRMS power
• 89.5dB sensitivity
6.5" 2 Way
• 75WRMS power
• 91.3dB sensitivity
6" x 9" 2 Way
• 80WRMS power
• 93.5dB sensitivity
Cat.
CS-2320
99.95
$
Cat.
CS-2322
109.95
$
This unit supports two AV devices connected to
the transmitter and allows you to switch between
them. With this unit you can feed as many
receivers as you like. Includes built-in IR remote
control repeater, selector switch, AV leads, power
supplies and instruction manual.
Note: This unit does not simultaneously broadcast
two signals
Cat. AR-1846
$
95
119.95
$
Cat.
CS-2328
Additional receivers
AR-1847 $69.95
139.95
$
5.8GHz Wireless Audio Video Sender
Install proper marine-grade speakers
in your boat and they will still
sound good long after ordinary car
speakers have died. Cat. CS-2390
• 4" Dia.
$
95
• 20WRMS Power
49.
Wireless MP3 Modulator
for Vehicles
SAVE
$10
Use any ordinary USB flash drive to
store your favourite MP3 files
and play them through your
car's FM radio.
59.
Two Channel Input 2.4GHz
Wireless Audio Video Sender
129.
Cat.
CS-2324
2-Way Marine Speakers
Cat. GE-4030
$
95
Watch Cable TV
in another room!
Wireless LAN, Bluetooth,
5.8GHz
cordless phones, etc,
The uncluttered
can cause overcrowding
AV band!
and interference for
items that transmit on
the 2.4GHz band. Beat
the congestion with this
5.8GHz unit and ensure
crystal clear reception no
matter what audio video device
you choose. Complete with built-in
IR remote control repeater, AV leads,
power supplies and instruction manual.
Cat. AR-1840
Additional receivers now
$
00
available AR-1841 $159.95
249.
Was $69.95
Car Amplifiers
Our amplifiers have taken pole position for
two consecutive years in Car Stereo
Australia's Product of the Year Awards. We
have an amp to suit every application. See our
website for all the great features!
Get that Party Pumpin'!
15" Party Speaker
Buy two
for $270
This speaker provides great
Save $28!
performance in difficult
locations such as tents or halls.
The unit consists of 3 piezo
drivers and a 15" bass driver in a
sturdy box. Termination to the box
is via high quality gold plated
binding posts.
Cat. CS-2515
• Power 120 WRMS $
00
• Dimensions:
740(H) x 505(W) x 350(D) mm
149.
Check out
more of our
amps in-store!
Rated at a generous 100WRMS per channel, this
two channel amplifier features a microphone
input and quality screwdown speaker terminals.
See our website or
catalogue for full
specifications.
Cat. AA-0470
$
00
2 x 80WRMS
2 x 80WRMS <at> 4 ohms
2 x 100WRMS <at>2 ohms
1 x 200WRMS <at> 4 ohms
Cat. AA-0420 $169.95
4 x 50WRMS
4 x 50WRMS <at> 4ohms
4 x 80 WRMS <at> 2ohms
2 x 160WRMS <at> 4 ohms
Cat. AA-0422 $199.95
2 x 150WRMS
2 x 150WRMS <at> 4 ohms
2 x 255WRMS <at>2 ohms
1 x 500WRMS <at>4 ohms
Cat. AA-0424 $249.95
2 x 100 WRMS Stereo Amplifier
with Remote Control
199.
4 x 100WRMS
• 4 x 130WRMS <at> 4 ohms
• 4 x 190WRMS <at> 2 ohms
• 2 x 380WRMS <at> 4 ohms
Cat. AA-0426 $299.95
800WRMS Class D
1 x 400WRMS <at> 4 ohms
1 x 700WRMS <at> 2 ohms
1 x 820WRMS <at> 1 ohm
Cat. AA-0428 $399
DJ Dual
CD Player
Enclosed in a
rugged, rack
mountable chassis it
features 8 times over sampling 1
bit D/A converter, 3 different scan speeds,
pitch display, seamless loop, 25- Cat. AA-0490
second anti-shock, auto locking $
00
CD drawers and more!
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
399.
HDMI Leads and Accessories
High definition multimedia interface (HDMI)
provides high quality signals for the best
in reproduction quality.
Male to male connection
WQ-7400
1.5m
$39.95ea
WQ-7402
3.0m
$49.95ea
WQ-7404
5.0m
$64.95ea
WQ-7405
10m
$99.95ea
HDMI to DVI Cable
WQ-7406
3.0m
$39.95ea
HDMI Adaptors
PA-3640 HDMI Socket to Socket
$14.95ea
PA-3642 HDMI Plug to DVI-D Socket $14.95ea
PA-3644 HDMI Plug to DVI-D Plug
$14.95ea
Portable Speaker
This nifty little unit is compatible
with iPods, MP3 players,
mobile phones, portable
CD players, laptops and
PCs. It folds into a tiny
90(L) x 65(H) x
60(W)mm compact box and
weighs only 177g. Was $29.95
SAVE
$15
iPod® not
included
Cat. XC-5186
$
95
14.
Weatherproof Amplified Speaker
with Solar Charger
This solar/battery powered wireless
remote speaker system enables you to
listen to radio, MP3, TV sound, music
etc. away from the house. It transmits
audio from the house to the speaker up
to 50m away on a quiet 900MHz band.
• Rechargeable batteries included
• Charged via mains plugpack or in-built
solar panel
Was $199.00
• Speaker/Receiver: 240(Dia.) x
340(H)mm excluding carry handle
SAVE
$20
Cat. AR-1899
$
00
179.
Audio Test Equipment
Compact Digital Sound Level Meter
Featuring a wide dynamic range from 30 to
130dB, it can measure both A and C
weightings and can have fast or slow
response to get an 'ambient' reading or a
short noise. Includes data hold and
min/max functions, as well as tripod
mount. Supplied with carry case, battery,
and wind sock.
Cat. QM-1589
• Dimensions: 210(H) x
$
95
55(W) x 32(D)mm
99.
Roadies Cable Tester
This rugged unit will enable quick,
convenient and reliable continuity
testing of most popular audio cables
such as balanced XLR, phono,
Speakon, DIN and more.
• Requires one 9V battery (not
included)
Cat. AA-0404
• Measures 102(W) x
$
95
45(H) x 142(D)mm
39.
2.7GHz Frequency
Counter
A 10Hz to 2.7GHz dual range
frequency counter for
measuring functions of frequency period
totals and self-checking. The counter readout has
a large 10mm 7 segment LED display with gate
time and data hold function. Decimals are also
included as well as a single step input
attenuation to a factor of 20 and a Cat. QT-2202
low pass filter. See website or
$
00
catalogue for full specifications.
199.
3
Rechargeable LED Work Light
It has a strong magnetic mount, twisting handle and
hanging hook. This robust unit has two lighting
options, 1W LED for use as a torch, 30 LEDs for use
as a lamp and is supplied with mains and car chargers.
• Measures at 360 x 45 x 55mm
Cat. ST-3024
$
95
39.
10M Candle Power
Rechargeable Spotlight
Features a super powerful 100W
halogen globe, a switch for dim
lighting, and twin fluorescent
globes for reading or as a work light
• Replacement Globe:
SL-3223 $12.95
Cat. ST-3308
• 12V SLA battery and
$
95
chargers supplied
79.
Pivot Head LED Lantern
The 20 LED lamp has a 2 mode
operation so you can set the degree of
illumination from a low level reading lamps
to a ultra-bright lantern. The head pivots
180° for full versatility.
• Requires 3 x D batteries
(not included) Cat. ST-3053
$
95
24.
USB Colour Changing
LED Lava Lamp
Give your office a bit of novelty lighting.
Easily connected to any USB port the lamp
will instantly change colours
Cat. GH-1520
enhancing even the dullest
$
95
office. • 170mm high
14.
These rugged yet attractive garden lights are diecast, powdercoated and moisture sealed with
neoprene gaskets. They're powered
by 12VDC and accept a halogen
See our full
MR16 globe. See in-store and
range of garden
lights in-store
check our bulk quantity prices,
transformers and globes to suit.
Focal Highlighter
Enhance a particular
plant or garden feature.
• 100(H) x 96(Dia.)mm Cat. SL-2772
excluding spike
$
50
22.
Flush Mount Garden Light
This sturdy lamp is ideal for
stairways or decks and can be
walked on.
Cat. SL-2776
• 100(H) x 95(Dia)mm $
50
22.
Wall Mount Garden Lamp
Ideal for lighting a path, step
or stairs
• 100(Dia.) x 50(D)mm
Cat. SL-2778
$
75
16.
4
SAVE
$20
1-Watt LED Headtorch
It has a water resistant case, is
extremely light and
comfortable to wear and is
ideal for wet environments
such as night fishing, caving or
wherever bright light is required. An adjustable
headpiece enables you to direct the beam at the
Cat. ST-3321
required angle.
Was $69.95
$
95
• Batteries not included
Encased in a clear tube, mount these
inside a computer tower case, a show car
or in cabinets etc. They are 12VDC powered,
supplied as a pair and come complete with adhesive
mounts, pre-wired switch and a pre-wired inverter
with a 280mm long cable to the tube and a 540mm
power cord terminated to a standard computer hard
drive plug/socket assembly.
49.
HID Rechargeable
Headtorch
Nothing comes close to a
High Intensity Discharge
(HID) torch for power and
brightness. This unit
More HID
torches available
serves as a hand or headlamp
in-store
and will run continuously for
over 115mins on a single charge. It is
waterproof (IP54 rated) making it ideal for
emergency services personnel
such as rescuers and fire fighters. Cat. ST-3366
$
00
Car and mains chargers supplied.
399.
Economy Headtorch
With a total of 12 LEDs and 4
lighting modes it is light,
compact, very efficient on
batteries and comes with a
fully adjustable head strap.
• Batteries not Cat. ST-3286
$
95
included
• Available in three colours:
SL-2855 White
SL-2856 Blue
SL-2857 UV
Contemporary in design and
fascinating to watch, this desk lamp
will definitely create a focal point in
any room with its wavy stainless steel
stand and 3 colour changing LED balls.
• Stands 470mm high
SAVE
• AC adaptor included
When darkness falls, these spotlights switch
on automatically. They have high-intensity
LEDs and a built-in solar panel to charge the
internal batteries during the day. Three styles
are available including constant illumination
and a PIR operated motion-sensing model.
Stainless Steel Solar LED
Spotlight
• 11 LEDs
• Illumination
duration:
10 hours
Cat. SL-2714
$
95
Party Lighting
4-Way Light Chaser with
Sound Modulator
SAVE
$10
Simple but effective!
When music is playing, it
switches in time with it. There
are no modulation controls, but it
works quite well indeed. It uses 240V 60W ES
reflector lamps, supplied with a red, yellow,
Cat. SL-2942
green, and blue globe. Check out
95
our website for replacement globes. $
Was $69.95
Red Laser Light Show
Solar LED Spotlight with PIR
Motion Sensor
Projects a dazzling laser display onto a wall.
• Requires 4 x AAA batteries (not included)
• Dimensions 135 (W) x 55 (H) x 90 (D) mm
• Can be powered by a 6V DC power supply (use
MP-3145 $19.95)
• 30 LEDs
• Illumination duration:
20, 40, or 90 sec.
PIR controlled
• PIR Sensing range: 15 metres
Cat. SL-2924
$
95
69.
Green Laser Light Show
Cat. SL-2718
$
00
99.
Polycrystalline Solar Panel
129.
Cat. GH-1812
$
95
59.
49.
Cat. SL-2716
$
00
$5
34.
Solar Lighting
• 30 LEDs
• Illumination duration:
10 hours
• Polycrystalline solar panel
All Types
29.95pr
$
Colour Changing 3
Sphere Desk Lamp
Was $39.95
9.
Outdoor Lighting Effects
Illuminate Your Garden
300mm Cold Cathode Fluorescent
(CCFL) Lighting Kits
Headtorch Heaven
It has 100 pre-set geometric
patterns and three modes of
operation. It can be set to autocontrol so the patterns change
randomly, or to the beat of the
music and the speed and shape
of the pattern can also be
adjusted. Mains power supply
and mounting
Cat. SL-2937
95
bracket included. $
169.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
H-Racer Hydrogen Car Kit with Solar
Refueling Station
All you need is water and sunshine. This palm-sized
car has an on-board hydrogen storage tank, a fuel cell
system connected to the car's electric motor, and a
hydrogen refueling system linking the
car's storage tank to the
solar-powered
refueling
station.
TIME Magazine's
Includes
product of the
Hydrogen
year!
Fuel Cell!
Cat. KT-2529
$
95
179.
1000VA Uninterruptible Power Supply
Protect your valuable computer system from power
failures, preventing data loss or
corruption. The included software can
be set up to save your data and
close down your computer
automatically if the power fails.
The UPS is supplied with two
12V 7Ah SLA batteries, USB
interface cable and software.
• 600VA UPS also available
MP-5200 $129.00
Cat. MP-5202
$
00
Wind Generators
200 Watt Wind
Turbine Generators
12V and 24V models available.
They will generate 200 watts at wind speed as
low as 8 metres per second and will deliver useful
power with a gentle 3 metre/sec breeze or give up
to 300 watts at higher wind velocities. The 71kg
units feature a 3 phase permanent magnet
alternator with a serious 2.1 metre diameter 3
blade rotor. The units will withstand wind speeds
of 40m/sec (144km/hr). Some skill is required in
construction e.g. concreting, mechanical assembly
and rigging.
• Units are shipped in three boxes, with a
combined weight of 86kg. NB. Due to the
weight and size not all stores will have these in
stock. The store can order the unit for you and
have it delivered to your site (freight costs are
additional). See
our website or
catalogue for
further
specifications.
12V Model
Cat. MG-4512
24V Model
Cat. MG-4510
Both Types (ea)
$
00
499.
199.
Battery Chargers
Battery Charger
and Test Station
Test, diagnose and charge Ni-Cd, NiMH rechargeable batteries and an
extensive range of button cell and
other batteries. Caters for up to 6 x
AAA or AA cells, up to 4 x C or D Cat. MB-3548
cells in addition to 1 or 2 x 9V
$
00
block batteries. See website for
battery listing and further details
149.
16 Amp 12V Car Battery Charger
This fully automatic, switchmode car battery
charger utilises a four stage rapid charge design
to optimise the life and performance of leadacid/GEL batteries. Includes a top
mounted carry handle and
cable storage for the battery
leads and clamps.
Size: 270(W) x 220(H)
x 120(D)mm. Cat. MB-3620
SAVE
$
00
Was
$20.95
$189.95
169.
12VDC & 240VAC Battery
Charger with LCD
Recharge up to four AA, AAA, C, D
and 2 x 9V Ni-Cd or Ni-MH batteries
together for a total of 6
batteries. Powerful enough to
get modern day high capacity
Ni-MH batteries charged
quickly and the ability to charge most
Cat. MB-3545
battery types.
$
95
• Mains power supply included
59.
Solar Panels
Each panel has an array of 36 polycrystalline cells
that can charge 12V batteries in virtually
any climate. They are built to last, and
designed to withstand a 25mm hail stone
travelling at terminal velocity. They
are mounted in an anodised
aluminium frame that
is weatherproof and
corrosion resistant.
See website for full
details.
• 10 year warranty on 10 and 20 Watt panels
• 20 year warranty on 80 Watt panel
Power
Cat
Was
Now
Save
10 Watts ZM-9060 $249
$169
$80
20 Watts ZM-9062 $399
$269
$130
80 Watts ZM-9069 $899
$769
$130
Amorphous Solar Panels
These offer excellent quality and value for money.
Beware of cheap
amorphous solar
panels which will
simply not give the
claimed output
power. All supplied with
lead to battery clips and plastic corner protectors.
Voltage
6 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
Power
1 Watt
2 Watt
4 Watt
10 Watt
15 Watt
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Cat
ZM-9020
ZM-9024
ZM-9026
ZM-9030
ZM-9045
Charge that digital device, iPod,
PSP or mobile phone anytime,
anywhere. The pack is charged
via USB and includes 7 output
adaptor plugs to suit the most
popular digital devices.
• See website or in-store for
compatible digital devices.
iPodTM not
included
Cat. MB-3300
$
95
69.
Mains Adaptor for USB
Powered Appliances
Charge a USB device without the
need to connect it to your computer.
A switchmode adaptor with 5VDC
output and 1A maximum current draw.
• USB cable sold
Cat. MP-3450
separately.
$
95
19.
600W (1500W Surge) 12VDC
to 230VAC Inverter
Features fan assisted cooling,
and with all our inverters,
electrical isolation
for safety. This
inverter is capable of
recharging power
See our huge
tool batteries,
range of
running fans and lamps up
inverters
in-store!
to 600W.
Cat. MI-5108
Was
SAVE
$
95
$249.95
$70
179.
Portable Power!
Save on BP Solar
Polycrystalline Solar Panels
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Battery Back-up Pack
Price
$29.95
$39.95
$69.95
$139.00
$199.00
Automotive Laptop
Power Supplies
They have a 12 to 13.8V input
voltage, feature a recessed
voltage selector, LED power
indicator and are supplied
with 7 output connectors
for all major laptop brands.
• Compatible brands include: Apple,
Compaq, Del, HP, IBM, ACER, Sharp
and Toshiba
• Terminates to a fused 10 amp automotive
cigarette lighter socket
MP-3463: 15/16/18/19/20/22/24VDC Cat. MP-3463
$
95
<at> 3.5 amps
MP-3467: 15/16/18/19/20VDC<at>
Cat. MP-3467
6 amps 22/24VDC<at> 5 amps
$
95
39.
69.
High End
Jump Starter
It has a built-in 17Ah
battery to jump-start
your car, a cigarette
lighter outlet for use as
a auxiliary power
source, test button
with voltmeter and a
work light. Recharging
this power pack is via the
supplied plugpack.
• Extra long 850mm
heavy-duty cables
• Dimensions: 330(W) x
380(H) x 100(D)mm
Cat. MB-3596
$
95
79.
5
Colour Video Doorphone with 4
Camera Inputs
With this system
up to 4 standard
CCTV cameras can
be utilised without
the need for a
second monitor. The
supplied external CCD
camera is cased in a
tamper proof enclosure and features IR illumination
for night viewing. The internal monitor has a clear 5”
colour LCD which can accommodate a door strike
release (LA-5078 $44.95).
• Package includes: one camera, one
Cat. QC-3614
monitor with 4 camera inputs, power
$
00
supplies and mounting hardware.
599.
Passive IR Camera
Utilising passive infrared (PIR) for
motion detection, this 350TV line
camera can be used as an accessory
for an alarm system or as a
Sony
stand-alone monitoring device. sensor
The camera has a Sony sensor inside
and operates from 12VDC.
• PIR detection range: 100 º with 10m
• Size: 70(W) x 110(H) x 49(D)mm
Cat. QC-3557
$
00
199.
2 Channel Wireless Intercom
This intercom plugs into your power point
and sends audio signals to
another room. It has a monitor
function and additional units
can be added for a multi-point
intercom system.
• Sold as a pair
Cat. AI-5500
Was $74.95
$
95
49.
This versatile B&W CCD
Camera utilises a 1/3"
Samsung image
sensor and can
SAVE
accommodate either a
$20
fixed or auto-iris lens of
both C and CS type. The unit includes a high
sensitivity microphone and has
Cat. QC-3310
a range of mounting options
$
00
available. Was $99.00
79.
Flickerless Colour CCD
Camera with Audio
SAVE
$50
Delivers a flickerless digital
colour image via a Sony
CCD image sensor.
Suitable for high-end
surveillance installations, the
flickerless ability of this camera makes it ideal
for applications that demand a high quality,
stable, and no compromise picture. Also
features a high sensitivity
Cat. QC-3309
microphone plus auto iris lens
$
00
controller. Was $199.00
149.
Mounting adaptors included.
SAVE
$25
Variable Focal Length
Hi-Res Camera
This 470TV line camera
features a Sony 1/3" HAD CCD
sensor with auto iris and auto white balance. It
has backlight compensation and
Cat. QC-3516
operates on 12VDC or 24VAC. See $
00
website for full specifications.
• Dimensions: 60(L) x 52(W) x 48(D)mm
369.
Colour CCD
Dome Camera
Cat. QC-3292
$
00
99.
Surveillance Camera
with DV Capture
A surveillance camera with built-in
digital recorder! Capture
events in real time will
this simple to install, fully
portable 380TV line VGA
camera that can be either
mains or battery
powered. It has
continuous motion
detection record options
and has 64MB of flash
memory. Mains power supply and
Cat. QV-3092
mounting hardware supplied. See $
00
website for details.
349.
6
B&W CCD Camera with Audio
Lenses to suit our Professional
Range of Cameras
SAVE
New Security Cameras
This affordable 350TV line dome
camera has a Sharp CCD sensor
and is ideal for shop surveillance
applications.
• 100mm diameter, 60mm high
Monthly Security Savings
QC-3315 4mm
QC-3316 6mm
QC-3317 8mm
Was $29.50
$9.55
All Prices (ea)
$
95
19.
TV/Video Resolution Chart
Test the performance of complete imaging
systems by creating an image of the standard
resolution target in the chart and then
determine the point at which
the system is no longer able
to separate the lines.
• Chart size is 245 x 184mm,
active measurement area is
204 x 152mm Cat. BJ-6025
$
95
9.
Multiplexing Digital Video Recorders
The vast array of features include 250GB HDD,
MPEG-4 compression for image clarity, motion
detection, covert recording, alarm trigger recording,
time/date stamp, image water marks and more!
Connect the device to a network and utilise your
recording system from anywhere with web access.
The unit also supports GPRS that will allow a mobile
phone to control PTZ motion and to access images.
See our website or catalogue for full specifications.
Available in a 4 and 16 channel
4 Channel
QV-3071
Cat. QV-3071
$
Was $899
16 Channel
QV-3076
Cat. QV-3076
$
2299
Digital Video Capture
Digital Video Recording
PCI Cards with MPEG 4
They incorporate high speed real time
compression and digital motion detection, alarm
event recording and
logging, variable
compression, and
mixed frame rate
recording. The
surveillance images
can be accessed
remotely via a LAN,
WAN or the Internet. Available in 4 and 8 channel.
4 Channel
8 Channel
Cat. QV-3082
Cat. QV-3080
$
00
$
00
249.
399.
4 Channel Multiplexing DVR with
Weatherproof Colour IR Cameras
View and record 4
video channels at
once. The 4 colour
cameras have IR
illuminators for
night use and are
weatherproof.
Comes fitted
with a 250GB HDD, but supports up to
400GB hard drives and the cameras are all
powered from the DVR. The pack includes 4
colour IR cameras, power supply and all cables.
See website for
SAVE
full specifications. Cat. QV-3070
$100
$
Was $1299
SAVE
$100
799
SAVE
$100
Was $2399
Wireless Surveillance
Wireless IP Camera with
Infrared LEDs
This compact camera has a built-in web
server and will provide worldwide
video coverage via the Internet or
your LAN. It has 6 IR LEDs for night
vision, focal adjustment and has
motion detection software to allow for
automatic intruder detection. The camera
is supplied with a mounting bracket,
software and mains power adaptor.
See website for full specifications. Cat. QC-3398
$
00
• 320 x 240 recording resolution
349.
Weather Resistant Wireless
Digital Colour Camera
This camera has 420TV line
resolution, 27 IR LEDs for night
viewing and includes a mounting
bracket and power supply. Use
this camera with any of our 2.4GHz
wireless receivers. Under eave
Cat. QC-3564
mounting
$
00
recommended.
249.
4 Channel Wireless Receiver
This receiver will accommodate up to four
2.4GHz cameras and will scan through or simply
display the selected channel. Supplied with 1m
RCA Video lead and mains plugpack
• Dimensions: 155(W) x 110(L) x 50(H)mm
SAVE
• Suits all our 2.4GHz cameras
$30
1199
Was
$99.95
Cat. QC-3588
$
95
69.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
'Grabit' Damaged
Screw Removal Tool
This fantastic tool will easily
remove screws with even the
most badly stripped heads. It
doesn’t even matter if they
were slotted, Phillips, Torx, or
some other tamper-proof screw.
This tool WILL get it out. The extraction bit consists
of a burnishing bit that prepares a tapered hole in the
screw head. You turn the bit around, reverse the
cordless drill direction and the extractor bites into the
prepped hole with tremendous force. Works equally
well on brass, steel, stainless
screws, etc. The TD-2059 consists
of two 1/4" hex drive bits that
cover screws from #6 to #14
gauge. They come in a small
plastic case with instructions.
It's not cheap, but what it can
do for you is priceless.
Cat. TD-2059
$
95
49.
Pin Extractor Tools
Take the frustration out of removing Molex
connector pins with these time saving tools.
Male pin extractor
Cat. TH-1730
Both Types (ea)
$
95
Female pin extractor Cat. TH-1732
14.
Missile Launch Style
Toggle Switch Cover
Carbon fibre in appearance this heavy
duty protective cover fits Cat. ST-0584
any toggle switch with a
$
95
12mm mounting hole.
5.
Test and Measurement
Pro-Style Pen DMM
This precision
instrument is made
using modern
double moulding
techniques to make it tough enough to be used
every day and includes nifty features like having a
spot to put the probe guard when in use. 7
functions in the one unit.
Cat. QM-1498
$
95
Cat III 600V safety design.
Designed with the DIY car enthusiast
it mind, this unit has standard meter
functions and features a 3.5 digit LCD
with automatic zero adjustment, low
battery warning and auto power off.
Includes dwell angle and RPM (x1,
x10) for 4, 5, 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
• Probes, holster and Cat. QM-1440
battery included
$
95
SAVE
Was $49.95
$10
39.
Analogue Multimeter
29.
Use air, gravity and energy
to perform experiments and
model famous inventions.
With over 10 projects,
create simple machines to
become an expert in the
field of aerodynamics.
• Suitable for ages 7yrs+
Cat. KJ-8810
While stocks last
High Quality 5.5" Electrical Shears
19.
These shears have insulated handles and
offer impressive cutting ability with
finely serrated blades.
Great for cutting
insulation, heatshrink,
Cat. TH-1758
spaghetti and light duty
$
95
hook-up wire.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
SAVE
$5
34.
All Kits (ea)
$
95
59.
Piezo Ignition Butane Gas Torch
Precision Soldering
This tool is
manufactured
from quality
carbon steel and
fitted with hardened and
tempered jaws. Suitable for crimping insulated
terminals from 0.5mm≤ to 6.0mm≤ in size.
• Overall length is 220mm
Cat. TH-1829
Was $39.95
$
95
Inventions in Flight
This book covers everything
from atomic structure, to DC
and AC theory, semiconductors,
integrated circuits and
communications. Each chapter
has a quiz at the end so you can
test your knowledge of each
subject.
• Softcover. 699 pages, 232 x
190mm
Cat. BM-7108
$
95
46W
Heavy Duty Ratchet
Crimping Tool
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
9.
12.
Teach Yourself Electricity and
Electronics 4th Ed.
Tools
19.
Enjoy and learn about
dynamics and motion. This
kit contains many amazing
and exciting activities
relating to gravity,
mechanics and different
forms of energy.
• Suitable for ages 8yrs+
Cat. KJ-8814
8.
30A
Cat. SY-4077
$
95
39.
The pistol grip on this
driver gives you
maximum control and
allows your fingers to fall naturally on the
forward/reverse control switch. It has an LED
lamp, magnetic bit holder and a battery level
indicator. Mains charger and 4 bits included.
• Bit holder size: 6.35mm
Cat. TD-2498
• Belt pouch now available
$
95
TD-2499 $5.95
Inventions in
Vehicles
15A
Cat. SY-4076
$
95
Cat. TS-1660
$
95
Cordless 4.8V
Screwdriver
Experiment with
waterpower and recreate
the history of how boats are
made. Learn about
floatation, buoyancy stability
and speed with 13 fun and
exciting projects.
• Suitable for ages 8yrs+
Cat. KJ-8812
Designed for automotive applications, these
quality relays have an integrated blade
fuse and metal mounting bracket.
• Fuse supplied • Two types available
Ideal for brazing, silver soldering, jewellery
work, heatshrinking, and a whole lot
more. It has an 1300°C adjustable
flame and includes a stand.
• Dimensions 150 (H),
base 69 x 69mm
• 150g Butane Gas
NA-1020 $4.95
A well made meter for those
who prefer the analogue meter
movement to the digital. It has
several 'digital' features, like a
10 amp DC current measuring
capability, continuity buzzer and
safety shrouded probes. See
website or
Cat. QM-1020
catalogue for full
$
95
features.
Kits Projects for Kids
Inventions in Boats
39.
Dwell Tacho DMM
SPST Automotive Fused Relays
Soldering Iron
This
soldering
iron offers exceptional
heat recovery. With its high
insulation and low current
leakage, soldering of precision
flat ICs and CMOS is a breeze.
13W
Pencil
Cat. TS-1430
$
95
59.
Leightweight Soldering
This is
the most delicate direct
mains iron we have ever seen. It
features a comfortable non-slip
rubber finger grip and balances Cat. TS-1446
$
95
perfectly when held.
39.
Anti-Static Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station
This soldering station is a precision, Japanese
manufactured instrument
SAVE
with excellent
$30
temperature
stability and
anti-static
characteristics.
It has a digital
temperature
adjustment from 200
to 480°C at 65W and a lightweight soldering
pencil. See website or catalogue
Cat. TS-1440
for full specifications.
$
00
Was $229
199.
7
Speedo Corrector MkII
Refer: Silicon Chip December 2006
When you modify your gearbox or change to a
large circumference tyre, it may result in an
inaccurate speedometer. This kit alters the
speedometer signal up or down from 0% to 99%
of the original signal. With this improved model,
the input setup selection can be automatically
selected and it also features an input LED
indicator. Kit supplied with PCB with overlay and
all electronic components.
Cat. KC-5435
$
95
The Short Circuits
Learning System
Magnetic Cartridge Preamp Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip August 2006
This kit is used to amplify the 3-4mV signals from
a phono cartridge to line level, so you can use
your turntable with the CD or tuner inputs on
your Hi-Fi amplifier. The design is suitable for 12"
LPs, and also allows for RIAA equalisation of all
the really old 78s. Kit includes PCB with overlay
and all electronic components. Note: Only
suitable for moving-magnet cartridges.
• Power: 12VAC
• Recommended magnetic
cartridge AM-4020 $45.00
49.
The Short Circuits learning system is a great
way to learn electronics. It is fun, informative,
and you build great projects along the way.
Here are just two examples of projects in
the Short Circuits series.
Wind and Rain SFX
This kit simulates the
sound of falling rain or
howling wind. Must be
connected to an amplifier
(use amplifier project 11 or
13). Kit includes PCB and
electronic components. Features
in Short Circuits #3.
• BJ-8505 $19.95
Cat. KJ-8088
$
95
16.
Sound Level Meter
Make your own fancy volume
level display you see on DJ mixing
decks where the columns of light dance up and
down with the music. Connect it to the output of
your CD, tape player or radio.
Cat. KJ-8212
Features in Short Circuits #2.
$
95
• BJ-8502 $14.25
Cat. KC-5433
$
95
39.
12.
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE The Tempmaster
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Ph (02) 6253 5700
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Ph (08) 8231 7355
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Ph (08) 9493 4300
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Ph (08) 8948 4043
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Ph (03) 471 7934
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Ph (09) 444 4628
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Manukau
Ph (09) 263 6241
Newmarket
Ph (09) 377 6421
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
Refer: Silicon Chip June 2005
This project turns a
regular fridge or
freezer into a wine cooler by
accurately controlling the
temperature to make
it suitable for wine
storage. A much cheaper
option than commercial
units. Kit supplied with PCB, case, mains
plug and all electronic components.
Battery Zapper Kit Mk II
Cat. KC-5413
$
95
39.
IR Remote Extender MKII Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip October 2006
Operate your DVD player
Improved
or digital decoder using
Model!
its remote control from
another room. It picks
up the signal from the
remote control and
sends it via a 2-wire
cable to an infrared LED
located close to the
device. This improved model
features fast data transfer, capable of
transmitting Foxtel digital remote control signals using
the Pace 400 series decoder. Kit supplied with case,
screen printed front panel, PCB with overlay
Cat. KC-5432
and all electronic components.
$
95
• Requires 9 VDC power and 2-wire cable
24.
Improved
Ref: Silicon Chip May 2006
Model!
Like its predecessor this kit
attacks a common cause of
failure in wet lead acid cell
batteries: sulphation. The circuit
produces short bursts of high
level energy to reverse the
damaging sulphation effect. The
improved unit features a battery
health checker with LED indicator, new
circuit protection against badly sulphated batteries, test
points for a DMM and connection for a battery charger. Kit
includes machined case with screen printed lid, circuit board,
alligator clips and all electric components.
Cat. KC-5427
Suitable for 6, 12 and 24V batteries
$
95
• Powered by the battery itself
99.
Galactic Voice Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip September 2006
Be the envy of everyone at the next
Interplanetary Conference for Evil
Beings with this galactic voice
simulator kit. Effect and depth
controls allow you to vary the
effect to simulate everything from
the metallically-challenged C-3PO, to
the hysterical ranting of Daleks hellbent on exterminating anything not nailed
down. The kit includes PCB with overlay,
enclosure, speaker and all components.
Cat. KC-5431
$
95
44.
HIGH PERFORMANCE ELECTRONIC PROJECTS FOR CARS BOOK
There are 16 projects in total, ranging from devices for remapping fuel curves, to nitrous fuel mixture
controllers, and more! The book includes all instructions, component lists, colour pictures,
Cat. BS-5080
$
80
and circuit layouts. There are also chapters on engine management, advanced systems and
DIY modifications. 150 pages!
19.
Frequency Switch
This great module can be
adapted to suit a range of
different applications.
Configure it to trigger water
spray cooling on deceleration, shift light activation,
adjustable aerodynamics based on speed, intake
manifold switching and much more. Cat. KC-5378
Kit supplied with PCB, and all
$
95
electronic components.
35.
PRICES VALID
TO 31/01/07
High Range Adjustable Temperature
Switch with LCD
It can be set anywhere up to 1200°C, so
it's extremely versatile. The relay can be
used to trigger an extra thermo fan on an
intercooler or mount a sensor near your
turbo manifold and trigger water spray
cooling or a simple buzzer to warn of high
temperature. Easily dash mounted the LCD
displays the temperature constantly.
Cat. KC-5376
$
95
69.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
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2007 57
Australia
01-07
A Remote
Telltale for
Garage Doors
If you have a perfect memory you won’t need this. But the rest of us
could find it very handy! It lets you know if you’ve left the garage
door open without stumbling out in the dark or the pouring rain . . .
By JIM ROWE
58 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
D
ID YOU REMEMBER to shut
the garage door when you got
home? If you’re not sure, you
might well go out in the morning
to discover that your car, portable
barbeque and mower have all been
nicked. Perhaps you’d better go out
and check now, just to make sure...
What’s that – you don’t have to
worry, because you have an electrically operated door? Fair enough, but
you still have to press the remote or
inside-the-house button to actually
shut the door.
Or maybe you did close it earlier and
now you’ve just pressed the remote
button to close it . . . and opened it?
I won’t flog this any more, because
I’m sure you get the idea. If you cannot
see the garage door, it’s all too easy
to either forget to close the door, or
forget whether you did or not. That’s
why we’ve come up with this project:
a low-cost and easy-to-build remote
sensing system.
Based on of a pair of compact UHF
transmitter and receiver units, the
transmitter continuously monitors the
status of your garage door via a pair of
microswitches.
Whenever that status changes
(because you open or shut the door),
it sends a short data signal back to
the receiver unit, which uses these
signals to update its LED door status
indicators.
This can be placed in any convenient position – where you can view it
and see at a glance whether the garage
door is fully open, fully shut or somewhere in between. Nifty, eh?
Both units fit inside standard lowcost UB3 jiffy boxes and make use of
very low-cost UHF data transmitter
and receiver modules. You can build
the complete ‘telltale’ system very
easily and at low cost.
By the way, the system would also
be suitable for remote monitoring of
other things beside garage doors. You
could use it for monitoring security
gates and doors, fire shutters and doors
and so on – anything with an “open”
and “shut” state.
How it works
To save you the near-impossible job
of building and aligning transmitters
and receivers (at least, not without
some pretty specialised test gear and
knowledge), we’ve based the system
on a pair of UHF (433MHz) data transmitter and receiver modules which
are sold by Oatley Electronics in kit
form, with the catalog number K190.
The four-channel modules include
security encoding and decoding and
the transmit and receive subcircuits
are preset to frequency, so there’s no
need for setup or alignment.
The transmitter module uses an
SM5162 security encoder chip, configured to provide four data inputs and
eight Tri-state encoding inputs – so
it can be set to any of 6561 different
security codes.
The receiver module uses a matching SM5172 decoder chip, again
configured for four data outputs and
eight Tri-state encoding inputs, so it
can be set up to respond only to signals
with whatever security code you have
set on the transmitter. As a result the
two modules provide a high degree of
security and protection against false
indications due to interference from
other 433MHz signals.
Another nice feature of the K190
transmitter module is the fact that it
includes a simple circuit which only
activates its transmitter circuitry
when one of its data input lines is
pulled ‘high’. We make good use of
this feature.
The circuit of the complete transmitter unit is shown in Fig.1, where
the transmitter module is shown at
centre right.
The module’s power supply input
+V is connected directly to the +9V
line from the battery, so like the rest
of the circuit it’s in ‘standby’ mode
The inset shows one microswitch, mounted at the garage door “open” position. We had a fortunate bracket on the door on
which to screw our microswitch actuating lever – a small piece of blank PC board. This has a little bit of spring and give
to ensure that it makes good contact with the microswitch button.
siliconchip.com.au
January 2007 59
100k
CON1
100nF
22k
100nF
13
NC
14
IC1d
100nF
9V
BATTERY
470 µF
16V
11
12
K
NO
S1
9
100k
UPPER
LIMIT
MICROSWITCH
22k
1M
IC1c
8
14
3
IC3a
IC1: 4011B
100nF
1
D1
10
A
1
2
470nF
IC3: 4093B
3
IC1a
+V
D
2
K
5
D1–D4:
1N4148
K
6
A
1M
4
IC1b
IC3d
7
11
7
LOWER
LIMIT
MICROSWITCH
CON2
NC
100k
100nF
A
13
13
B
A
12
100nF
22k
C
D2
OATLEY
K190 ANT
UHF TX
MODULE
GND
470nF
10 µF
14
IC2d
11
12
S2
K
9
NO
100k
22k
1M
IC2c
10
IC3b
8
4
A
5
6
IC2: 4011B
100nF
6
IC2b
D3
470nF
4
5
SC
2007
GARAGE DOOR
TELLTALE
TRANSMITTER
all the time. The total current drain is
only about 100mA in this mode, so the
battery should last for its full normal
‘shelf life’.
Each of the transmitter module’s
A-D data inputs is connected to the
output of one of four identical pulseforming one-shot circuits.
Each one-shot consists of a pair of
cross-connected 4011B CMOS NAND
gates forming a simple set/reset flipflop, set whenever a negative-going
pulse is applied to its input via the
100nF capacitor. About 600ms after
being set in this way, it is reset again
60 Silicon Chip
K
2
1
1M
IC2a
7
3
IC3c
10
D4
A
8
9
470nF
automatically by means of an RC timing circuit coupled to a 4093B gate
configured as a Schmitt inverter.
The input of each one-shot is connected via a 100nF capacitor to a fixed
contact of one of the two door-sensing
microswitches, S1 and S2. The input
of the ‘D’ one-shot is connected to the
normally closed (NC) contact of microswitch S1, while the input of the ‘C’
one-shot is connected to the normally
open (NO) contact of the same switch.
The ‘A’ and ‘B’ one-shots are similarly
connected to S2.
The COM contacts of both S1 and
Fig.1: the transmitter monitors
the status (open or closed) of
two microswitches which are
mounted at the top and bottom
travel of the garage door.
The transmitter is based on a
prebuilt module.
S2 are connected to circuit ground, so
that either the NC or the NO contacts
are grounded depending on whether
the switch is operated or not.
The idea of these four one-shot circuits is that whenever either switch S1
or S2 is operated, a 600ms long pulse
is generated by one of the one-shots A,
B, C or D. This is fed to the transmitter module, so that it springs to life
and sends the corresponding coded
signal. Thinking about it another way,
a different code pulse is transmitted
whenever the garage door moves into
or out of the fully shut position, or
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 7809
+9V
OUT
IN
GND
10 µF
Vdd
A
OATLEY
B
ANT K190
UHF RX C
MODULE
5
6
D
RXD
8
GND
4
IC1b
IC1c
1
100k
13
B
100nF
C
12
Q1
PN100
E
6
12V
DC
– IN
7
4
10k
B
DOOR
OPEN
λ LED1
λ
C
Q3
PN100
680Ω
A POWER
K
K
λ LED3
1N4004
K
E
A
LEDS
3
11
IC2c
10
K
8
1
IC1d
IC2b
K
680Ω
A
10
9
IC1a
14
5
2
10k
DOOR A
SHUT
LED2
IC1: 4001B
IC2: 4011B
14
9
TP1
+
A
100nF
680Ω
+V
K
470 µF
16V
+5V
100nF
D1 1N4004
IC2a
10k
3
2
B
C
A
Q2
PN100
E
PN100
C B E
12
13
IC2d
11
7
SC
2007
GARAGE DOOR
TELLTALE RECEIVER
7809
IN
OUT
GND
Fig.2: the receiver consists of a pre-built UHF receiver mounted on an Oatley module with some logic gates and
flipflops to control the status LEDs.
into or out of the fully open position.
For example, when the door reaches
the fully shut position, the NO contact
of S2 is grounded and the ‘A’ one-shot
is triggered, sending a 600ms pulse
to the A input, telling it to transmit
the ‘door shut’ code. But as soon as
the door begins to open again, the NC
contact of S2 now becomes grounded.
This triggers the ‘B’ one-shot, sending a 600ms pulse to the B input and
causing a ‘door opening’ code to be
transmitted.
Then when the door reaches the
fully open position, the NO contact of
S1 becomes grounded and this triggers
one-shot ‘C’, causing a ‘door open’
code to be transmitted. And finally,
when the door begins to leave the fully
open position to close again, the NC
contact of S1 is grounded, triggering
one-shot ‘D’ and the transmission of
a ‘door closing’ code.
By the way, the transmitter current
drain rises to about 10mA only when
a code pulse is being transmitted. So
the battery only needs to supply this
current for about 600ms, when the
garage door’s status changes. Most
of the time the transmitter will be in
‘standby’ mode, drawing only 100mA.
So that’s how the Telltale’s transsiliconchip.com.au
mitter unit operates. Now let us look
at the circuit of the receiver unit
(Fig.2), to see how it responds to
these four possible codes from the
transmitter unit.
Receiver operation
The four outputs from the UHF
receiver module are each fed through
one gate of a 4001B quad NOR gate,
IC1. The inverted pulses from these
gates are then used to trigger a pair of
set/reset flipflops, each formed by a
pair of cross-connected gates of IC2,
a 4011B quad NAND gate.
As a result, when a ‘door shut’ code
is received and a pulse appears at
output A of the receiver module, this
produces a negative-going pulse at pin
4 of IC1b, and the upper IC2b/IC2c
flipflop is triggered into its set state.
Pin 4 of IC2b switches high, which
turns on transistor Q3. This allows
current to flow through LED2 – the
‘door shut’ indicator.
Now if the door starts to open and
a ‘door opening’ code is received, a
pulse appears at the B output of the
receiver module. This is inverted by
IC1c, applying a negative-going pulse
to pin 8 of IC2c and triggering the
IC2b/IC2c flipflop into its reset state.
Pin 4 of IC2b switches low, turning off
Q3 and also LED2.
Nothing then happens until the door
reaches the fully open position, and a
‘door open’ code is transmitted. This
causes a pulse to appear at the C output of the receiver module. Gate IC1a
inverts this pulse and uses it to trigger
the IC2a/IC2d flipflop into its set state.
So this time pin 3 of IC2a switches
high, turning on transistor Q2 and
LED1 – the ‘door open’ indicator.
Then when the door starts to close
again and a ‘door closing’ code is received, a pulse appears at the D output
of the receiver. This is inverted by
IC1d and applied to pin 13 of IC2d,
the reset input of the lower flipflop.
So this flipflop resets again, turning
off Q2 and LED1.
Summarising, the receiver unit
responds to the codes sent by the
transmitter by turning on LED2 only
when the garage door reaches the fully
shut position, and turns it off again
as soon as the door begins to open.
Similarly it turns on LED1 only when
the door reaches the fully open position, turning it off again as soon as the
door begins to shut. So LED2 glowing
indicates that the door is shut, while
LED1 glowing indicates that the door
January 2007 61
ANTENNA
ANTENNA
D
C
B
OATLEY K190
UHF TX MODULE
+V
GND
V+
OATLEY
K190 UHF RX
MODULE
A
470 µF
+V
–
D2
+
4148
4148
1M
1M
D4
GND
RXD
VDD
TP1
470nF
470nF
+
9V BAT
100nF
4148
1M
D3
10k
4148
100k
D1
470nF
IC3 4093B
470nF
26011130
6002 ©
GND
GND
B A
GND D C
ANT
100nF
IC1 4001B
1M
100nF
100nF
680Ω
IC2 4011B
IC1 4011B
Q1
PN100
100nF
100nF
IC2 4011B
680Ω
680Ω
CN
100k
CON2
MO C
CN
ON
100k
100k
CON1
MO C
100nF
100nF
100nF
100k
ON
10 µF
100nF
22k
+
NC COM NO
NC COM NO
FROM S1
FROM S2
POWER
10 µF
+
DOOR
FULLY
PN100 OPEN
Q3
10k
10k
Q2
22k
22k
16011130
6002 ©
22k
LED2
LED1
LED3
DOOR
FULLY
PN100 SHUT
D1
1N4004
REG1
470 µF
7809
12V DC IN
Fig.3: the transmitter PC board component overlay and matching photo
alongside. Top of page is a side-on, close-up view of the transmitter module
mounted on the PC board.
is open.
When neither LED is glowing, this
indicates that the door must be somewhere in between the two extremes
– neither fully open nor fully shut.
We make sure that neither LED1
nor LED2 lights when power is first
applied to the receiver unit by applying a ‘power on reset’ pulse to both
flipflops.
This pulse is generated by transistor Q1, the collector of which goes
positive for a short time after power is
applied (until its 100nF base capacitor
charges via the 100kW resistor). The
positive pulse at Q1’s collector is fed
to the second input of IC1c and IC1d,
causing a brief negative-going pulse
to be applied to the reset input of the
flipflops.
There is a third LED in the receiver
unit (LED3), which simply indicates
that power is applied. So when only
LED3 is glowing, you can be reassured
that this is because the door is neither
fully open nor fully shut.
The status LEDs in the receiver
62 Silicon Chip
operate from 9V DC, derived from an
external 12V DC supply using REG1.
The rest (Including the receiver module) runs from 5V DC, derived from
the +9V line via an L4949 LDO (low
drop out) regulator IC on the receiver
module.
This arrangement allows the receiver to be operated from either a 12V
battery or almost any plugpack supply
delivering between 11.5V and 15V
DC. The total current drain is quite
low – about 25mA when only LED3 is
glowing, rising to 35mA when either
LED2 or LED1 is glowing as well.
Construction
Both the transmitter and receiver
are built onto 57 x 122mm PC boards
and housed in standard UB3 utility
boxes. The transmitter board is coded
03101071, while the receiver board is
coded 03101072.
All of the transmitter components,
apart from the door sensing microswitches, either mount on the board
or fit into the box with it, while all of
the receiver components mount on
that board.
The only items to emerge from the
transmitter unit box are an antenna
wire at the top and the leads to the
microswitches at the bottom. Similarly, the receiver unit has its antenna
emerging from the top and the power
supply lead from the bottom.
The location and orientation of all
components on both boards are shown
in the overlay diagrams of Figs.3 & 4.
The wiring of each is quite straightforward, so if you follow these diagrams
carefully you shouldn’t strike any
problems.
We suggest that you assemble both
of the Oatley K190 modules first,
before fitting either of them to their
Telltale boards. But before you even
start assembling the K190 transmitter module, its board needs to be
shortened by cutting off the end strip
where indicated by a dashed line on
the overlay. This removes an optional
part of the board which is only needed
when the module is fitted with its own
four input pushbuttons. After cutting
this part off, use a small file to smooth
off any burrs.
One of the ‘components’ to be fitted to the K190 transmitter module
board is another even smaller board,
about 15mm square, already wired
with the SMD components used in
the UHF transmitter circuitry. This
smaller board mounts on the top of
the transmitter module board, with
its three connection leads going down
through holes and soldered to pads on
the underside.
The antenna and ground leads, at
the righthand end of the SMD board,
are NOT cut off short after soldering
but are left intact so they can be connected directly to the main Telltale
transmitter board later on. The only
lead which is cut short after soldering
to the transmitter module board is the
siliconchip.com.au
ANTENNA
B A
GND D C
GND
V+
26011130
6002 ©
OATLEY
K190 UHF RX
MODULE
GND
RXD
VDD
10k
100k
TP1
100nF
IC1 4001B
100nF
Q1
PN100
100nF
680Ω
IC2 4011B
680Ω
680Ω
10k
Q2
POWER
10 µF
+
DOOR
FULLY
PN100 OPEN
Q3
10k
LED2
LED1
LED3
DOOR
FULLY
PN100 SHUT
D1
1N4004
REG1
470 µF
7809
12V DC IN
Fig.4: here’s the receiver PC board overlay and photo, again with the kit
receiver module shown in situ top right.
supply/control lead, which is at the
lefthand side.
After the SMD board has been fitted, solder in the 18-pin DIL socket
for the SM5162 encoder chip and also
the other components: six resistors
(mounted vertically on-end), a 22nF
capacitor and a C8050 transistor.
Then solder seven short (~10mm+)
lengths of tinned copper wire (eg,
resistor lead offcuts) to the pads provided at each end for off-board connections. There are five of these pads
at one end for the transmit inputs A-D
and a V+ connection and two pads at
the other end for a ground and +9V
connection. Each of these wires needs
to be perpendicular to the module
board surface.
Next, pass a 10mm M3 machine
screw down through each of the module’s four mounting holes (from the
top) and then fit an M3 nut on each
screw. Tighten these nuts securely,
because they are used as spacers.
Once they are tightened the transmitter module assembly can be mounted
siliconchip.com.au
on the Telltale transmitter unit board,
by passing each of the module’s connection wires through its matching
hole in the main board, with the four
mounting screws through their larger
holes.
Once the module is sitting above
the main board on its M3 nut spacers,
turn the whole assembly over and fit
another M3 nut on each screw to hold
it firmly in place. Then you can solder
all of the module’s connection wires
to their pads on the main board and
cut off the excess.
With the transmitter module in
place, the remaining components can
be fitted quite easily. Fit the four wire
links first, then the two PC board terminal pins for the battery snap leads
and the two 3-way terminal blocks
for the microswitch lead connections.
These are followed by the resistors,
the MKT and multilayer monolithic
capacitors, the polarised electrolytic
capacitors and the diodes.
After this you can fit the three ICs,
or their sockets if you’re using them.
Then, cut a 173mm length of singlecore hookup wire for the antenna and
solder one end of it to the rectangular
pad near the top centre of the board.
Your Telltale’s transmitter board
should be complete and ready to fit
into its box, once the box is drilled
to accept it.
Drilling details for both the transmitter and receiver boxes are shown
in Fig.6.
The board mounts inside the rear
of the box via four 15mm M3 tapped
spacers, using four 6mm countersunkhead screws to attach the spacers to
the box rear and four round-head
6mm screws to attach the board to the
spacers. Just make sure that you pass
the antenna wire out through its hole
in the top end of the box, before you
lower the board assembly into place
and fit the fastening screws.
Once the board assembly is mounted inside the box, you can solder the
ends of the battery snap leads to the
terminal pins at upper left on the main
board (the pins marked ‘9V BAT’).
Make sure that you solder the black
wire to the outermost (minus) pin and
the red wire to the inner (plus) pin
(the one nearer the 470nF capacitor).
Then you can connect the ends of
the 2-core shielded leads you’ll be
using to connect microswitches S1
and S2 to their terminal blocks at the
bottom of the transmitter board. The
inner wires of each lead are connected
to the end terminals on each block
(NO and NC), while the shield braids
connect to the centre (COM) terminals.
The transmitter unit can now be
completed by attaching the 9V battery
to the snap connector. You’ll find that
the battery fits inside the box sideways
above IC1 and IC2, with the snap lead
wires coiled up above IC3. We placed
the battery in a very small plastic bag
to preclude the possibility of shorts.
The box lid can now be fitted with
January 2007 63
Parts List – Garage Door Telltale
Transmitter Unit
1 ABS Jiffy box, UB3 size
(130 x 68 x 44mm)
1 PC board, 57 x 122mm,
code 03101071
1 Oatley Electronics K190
UHF transmitter module kit
2 3-way terminal blocks, PC
mounting (CON1, CON2)
2 PC pins, 1mm diameter
4 15mm M3 tapped spacers
4 6mm M3 coutersunk-head
machine screws
4 6mm M3 round-head
machine screws
4 10mm M3 round-head
machine screws
8 M3 nuts
1 9V alkaline battery with snap
lead
2 SPDT microswitches
2 lengths of shielded cable
for microswitch leads, two
conductors plus shield
Semiconductors
2 4011B quad CMOS NAND
gate (IC1,IC2)
1 4093B quad Schmitt NAND
gate (IC3)
4 1N4148 diodes (D1,D2,D3,D4)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
4 470nF MKT metallised
polyester
4 100nF MKT metallised
polyester
3 100nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
4 1MW 4 100kW 4 22kW
its label, which can be photocopied from Fig.5 (or downloaded and
printed out from www.siliconchip.
com.au).
You’ll need to cut four holes for the
lid mounting screws. The final step is
to fit the small plastic sealing bungs
above each screw head (these also hide
any oopses in cutting the label!).
Receiver assembly
The Telltale receiver is assembled in
much the same way as the transmitter.
As before, we suggest that you assemble the K190 receiver module first.
This module again has a small pre64 Silicon Chip
Receiver Unit
1 ABS Jiffy box, UB3 size
(130 x 68 x 44mm)
1 PC board, 57 x 122mm,
code 03101072
1 Oatley Electronics K190
UHF receiver module kit
1 2.5mm DC connector, PC
mounting (CON1)
1 PC pin, 1mm diameter
4 25mm M3 tapped spacers
4 6mm M3 countersunk-head
machine screws
5 6mm M3 round-head
machine screws
4 10mm M3 round-head
machine screws
9 M3 nuts
Semiconductors
1 4001B quad CMOS NOR
gate (IC1)
1 4011B quad CMOS NAND
gate (IC2)
1 7809 9V positive regulator
(REG1)
3 PN100 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2,Q3)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 5mm orange/yellow LED
(LED2)
1 5mm green LED (LED3)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT metallised
polyester
2 100nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 100kW 3 10kW 3 680W
wired SMD sub-board, which in this
case is elongated and mounts ‘on edge’
near the centre of the receiver module
board. Its three main connections to
the rest of the receiver module are
made via the pins of a 3-way 90° SIL
connector near one end. The receiver
antenna wire does not pass down
through the module board, however.
You solder it directly to the SMD
board’s terminal pad later.
The SMD receiver board is mounted
on the K190 module board simply
by passing its three connection pins
down through the matching board
holes and then soldering them to the
pads underneath. After soldering do
not cut off the pins though, because
again they will pass down through
holes in the main board and be soldered to pads underneath.
Of course before this can be done
you should fit the rest of the receiver
module components. Again, there are
only a handful of these: an 18-pin DIL
socket for the SM5172 decoder chip,
an 8-pin DIL socket for the module’s
L4949 voltage regulator, two resistors
(which are mounted on end), two
small electrolytic capacitors (watch
their polarisation), a 22nF polyester
capacitor and a LED (provided for
‘valid data received’ indication).
Before mounting the completed
K190 receiver module onto the Telltale’s receiver board, turn it over and
again solder some short lengths of
tinned copper wire or resistor lead
offcuts to the module’s off-board
connection pads. In this case there
are five of these at the top of the
module board for the A-D outputs
and a ground connection, plus two
more at the upper left of the module
for the +9V supply input and another
ground connection.
(There are also the three pins from
the SMD module, which pass through
into the main board as well.)
When these off-board wires have
all been fitted to the K190 receiver
module, it is again fitted with four
10mm-long M3 machine screws,
passed through each of the corner
mounting holes from the top. Then
fit each screw with a single M3 nut
as before, to act as the mounting
spacers. After tightening the nuts you
can then attach the receiver module
Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
5
4
3
3
Value
1MW
100kW
22kW
10kW
680W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
The receiver (left) mounts on the
lid of the receiver box, while the
transmitter (below) mounts on pillars
inside the box. The transmitter
battery is loose inside the box. It is
unlikely to short to anything in this
area of the box but is placed inside a
tiny plastic bag, just in case.
to the Telltale’s receiver board, again
by passing all of its connection wires
and pins down through their matching
board holes – and the four mounting
screws through their larger holes.
Once the module is resting down on
the spacer nuts you can then turn the
board over and fit the four remaining
M3 nuts to fasten it securely, followed
by soldering the connection wires and
pins to their board pads.
With the receiver module fitted, you
can fit the rest of the components on
the Telltale’s receiver board. This is
easiest if you fit them in the following order: first the single PC board
terminal pin for TP1, then
the single wire link (just
below the K190 module),
ANTENNA
ANTENNA
and then the 2.5mm concentric DC power connector at bottom centre.
Next fit the seven resistors, the two multilayer
monolithic capacitors and
the MKT capacitor, the
two polarised electrolytic
capacitors, the 1N4004
power diode D1, the 7809
regulator REG1 (its tab is
attached to the board using a 6mm M3 screw and
nut) and the three PN100
transistors (Q1-Q3).
Then fit the two ICs
or their 14-pin sockets
if you’re using them,
followed by the three
LEDs. All three LEDs are
mounted vertically, with
their leads soldered to the
board pads so that the tops
DOOR
DOOR
of their bodies are about
POWER
FULLY
OPEN
FULLY
SHUT
30mm above the top of
TRANSMITTER
the board.
RECEIVER
To complete the reUPPER
LOWER
9 – 12V
ceiver board assembly, cut
LIMIT
LIMIT
DC INPUT
SWITCH
SWITCH
another 173mm length of
+
–
NC COM NO
NC COM NO
solid core hook-up wire
for the receiver’s antenna
and carefully solder one
one end to the antenna Fig.5: suggested front panels for the project. By the way, there is no significance in the fact
connection pad on the top that the boxes we used are different colours – you can choose which ones you want!
siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
SILICON
CHIP
OOR
D
GE TE
A
R
GA REMO LE
LTA
L
E
T
OOR
D
GE TE
A
R
GA REMO LE
LTA
L
E
T
January 2007 65
20
A
A
18
UPPER END OF BOX
UPPER END OF BOX
B
B
BOX MOUNTING
HOLE AS
REQUIRED
B
47
B
47
94
CL
CL
18
47
47
18
D
D
D
19
B
B
24.75
B
B
24.75
24.75
HOLE SIZES:
A: 3mm DIAMETER
B: 3mm DIAMETER,
COUNTERSUNK
C: 8mm DIAMETER
D: 5mm DIAMETER
OUTER REAR OF BOX
49.5
ALL DIMENSIONS
IN MILLIMETRES
24.75
OUTER SURFACE OF LID
49.5
18.5
C
32
5
16
TERMINAL BLOCK
ACCESS SLOT
LOWER END OF BOX
CL
TRANSMITTER UNIT
17
LOWER END OF BOX
RECEIVER UNIT
CL
Fig.6: drilling details for both boxes. These are based on a standard UB3 (130 x 68 x 44mm) Zippy box.
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
03101072
© 2007
+
03101071
© 2007
NO
NC
COM
NO
NC
COM
end of the SMD receiver sub-board.
You’ll find this pad on the top end
of the SMD board, down near the top
surface of the K190 board.
The receiver board fits to the inside
lid of its box, attached via four 25mmlong M3 tapped spacers, fastened
to the box lid using four 6mm-long
countersunk-head M3 screws.
The board assembly is then mounted
on the spacers using four 6mm long
round-head screws, after making sure
that the three LEDs pass up through
their matching clearance holes.
To complete the Telltale receiver,
the antenna wire is then passed out
through the small hole in the top of
the receiver box as the lid and board
assembly are lowered into the box.
Then the lid is fastened into the box
using the four small self-tapping screws
provided, and finally the dress bungs
pushed in to seal the screw holes.
If you wish to use the front panels
you will need to cut or drill holes for
the four lid screws and bungs in both
boxes and also the three LEDs in the
receiver box.
LED bezels can hide any blemishes
around hole edges.
Trying it out
Now that both the transmitter and
receiver units have been completed,
you’re almost ready to make sure
they’re both working and ‘talking to
each other’. Connect the two microswitches (S1 and S2) to the ends of the
cables from the transmitter unit.
Make sure that the NC terminals on
the transmitter board connect through
to the NC lugs on the microswitches;
the NO and COM terminals likewise.
If you followed the wiring instructions
earlier, the COM terminals will be connected via the cable shield.
Next, connect a 12V battery or some
other source of 12V DC to the receiver
unit using a suitable power lead terminated in a 2.5mm concentric plug
(centre pin positive). The receiver’s
power LED3 should light to indicate
that the receiver is working but both
of the other LEDs should remain off.
Now place the transmitter unit a
few metres away from the receiver
and try pressing the actuator button on
microswitch S1, holding it down. You
should find that LED1 (the ‘Door Fully
Open’ LED) on the receiver should
begin glowing, and continue to glow
while ever you keep holding the S1
button down.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: same-size PC board artwork for the transmitter (left) and receiver.
When you next let go of the S1 button
and allow it to snap out, you should
now find that LED1 on the receiver
turns off again.
Now try pressing in the actuator button on microswitch S2, and again hold
it in. This time LED2 (the ‘Door Fully
Shut’ LED) on the receiver should light,
and stay that way until you release the
S2 button again. Only then should it
turn off.
If your system behaves just as
described, everything is working as
it should and you’ll be ready for its
installation.
Installation
There is very little involved in installing the Telltale transmitter and
receiver. The transmitter unit is simply
attached to the inside wall of your
garage, near the door to be monitored
and fairly high up if possible (for the
best UHF transmission range). It’s
very small and light in weight, so it
can be attached to the wall using a
single screw.
Once the box is in place, you need
to fit the two microswitches to the
side frame of the door – so they can
be actuated by either the door itself,
or a small extension bracket you can
screw to the door.
S1 needs to be actuated when the
door is in its fully open position, while
S2 is actuated when it’s fully shut. The
cables running from each switch back
to the transmitter box will need to be
attached to the wall securely so they
are protected against accidents.
Installing the receiver unit inside
your house is even simpler. Here all
you need to do is mount the receiver
box on the wall in a convenient position, again fairly high up for the most
favourable UHF reception.
For the most reliable operation, if
possible it should be within 10-15
metres of the transmitter unit and the
antennas should be aligned in the same
plane (eg, both vertical).
Then all that’s needed is to provide
it with its necessary 12V power, and
you’re finished. Your Garage Door Remote Telltale should be fully installed
SC
and operating.
January 2007 67
Australia has gone from a leading manufacturer of radios
and components to almost exclusively importing electronics
– usually displaying the ‘made in China’ label. With an
upsurge of new technology like MP3, GPS, Bluetooth and
much more, it’s a revelation to find an Australian
company designs and manufacturers high-tech
world-leading innovative radios, making an
impact worldwide.
by Kevin Poulter
WiNRADiO
®
An Australian Success Story
68 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
W
iNRADiO receivers are no ordinary radios, as
they link to computers for awesome performance.
Why have few Australians heard of WiNRADiO? Because 95% of its products are sold
overseas, to clients like the US and UK Defence
Departments.
Originally a small Melbourne-based start-up,
WiNRADiO introduced its first product, an ISAbus based receiver WR-1000i back in 1995 at the
Sydney PC show. The receiver won the show’s
‘Best New Hardware’ award. Featuring a frequency
range of 150kHz to 1300MHz, the product was
the world’s first commercially available wideband
scanning receiver for the PC.
Radio receivers and computers have kept a respectful
distance apart until recently. The main reason for this was
the electromagnetic ‘storm’ of noise emanating from computers, making PCs unfavorable to radio reception. There
is also the dissimilar technologies and jargon.
To a computer aficionado, a “megahertz” is the frequency
the CPU runs at, not something you actually tune to.
Engineers at WiNRADiO made the first successful attempt
to marry radio and computer technologies with innovative
concepts, resulting in international radio-related patents
and trademarks.
Significantly, they made the computer an essential component of a radio receiver, with their latest designs adapting
the computer to cover almost half of the radio operation.
This means much of the conventional receiver circuits
normally accomplished with an array of components (such
as intermediate frequency filters and demodulators) have
been replaced with software running on an ordinary PC.
With WiNRADiO receivers, all that’s needed is their
“front end” USB box or a PCI-bus card, for almost any
PC to be instantly transformed into a powerful VHF/UHF
scanner or a shortwave receiver.
It’s not just for Government services. Many enthusiasts
or audiences like to listen in to shortwave and other bands.
Shortwave is still the only mass-media capable of reaching
the world without supporting infrastructure. Now, with
the advent of digital DRM technology, shortwave is finding
new markets and applications.
siliconchip.com.au
The WR-G313
Let’s look at their WR-G313 HF receiver, popular amongst
serious radio users, such as major broadcasting corporations, defence establishments worldwide and amateur
radio enthusiasts. The London-based “Word Radio TV
Handbook” rates radio receivers annually and awarded
the G313 a five star rating.
The receiver comes in two forms: an internal PCI card
(G313i), as shown at the top of this page or as an external
USB box (G313e) – shown underneath.
Their performance is identical – the only difference is the
hardware interface. The external G313e unit is housed in
a small (164 x 96 x 41 mm) case, while the internal model
is based on a 3/4-length standard PCI bus card, ready to
to plug in and use.
The only hint that they are a radio receiver is an SMAtype connector marked “antenna”. On the USB model,
remaining external features are simply the power and USB
connectors, power switch and blue LED.
Frequency range of the WR-G313 is 9kHz to 30MHz,
optionally expandable to 180MHz.
Plug-and-Play installation is simple and similar for
both models: just connect the device, insert the supplied
CD ROM, and let Windows guide you through the usual
device driver installation process. On completion, a rather
impressive control panel appears (shown next page).
January 2007 69
The screen
At first look, there’s quite a resemblance to conventional
radio receivers, with the tuning dial “knob”, frequency
display and signal strength meter.
A closer look reveals even more bells and whistles – eg,
Notch filter and Noise blanker, plus a number of unusual
demodulation modes. These advanced features, such as
the real-time spectrum display which shows the actual
spectrum of the station you are tuned to, are not typically
found on any conventional radio. Further, press one of
the yellow triangle buttons beside the on/off switch and
an additional “sweeping” spectrum analyser neatly slides
out at the bottom:
Computer technology enables even more interesting
goodies, not seen on a receiver before. For example,
pressing the Test button will reveal a comprehensive test
facility, normally only found on expensive laboratory test
instruments:
70 Silicon Chip
The spectrum of the demodulated signal is displayed
in real time, enabling measurement of the frequency error
and modulation parameters of the received signal. Using a
signal generator, with the receiver in the SINAD function,
you can even measure its own sensitivity.
Pressing the Study button on the main panel reveals some
of the technology. Demodulation is performed entirely by
software, using “Software Defined Radio” technology. Each
demodulation mode, like AM, FM and SSB, is performed
by applying different mathematical formulas on a digitised
IF (intermediate frequency) signal.
So the diode and capacitor, for decades used as an AM
demodulator, are now replaced by a mathematical formula.
This makes the demodulation much more accurate and
consistent and not affected by component non-linearities,
temperature dependency and aging.
The WiNRADiO G313 receivers show the internal
structures of these “virtual” demodulators and even allow
exploring in detail what’s happening to the signal during
the demodulation process (see the AM demodulator image).
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s a look inside the USB version of the G313. At left is the control
section with its PIC microprocessor and AD DSP, while the RF section is
shown above right.
Left or right-clicking on the block structure diagrams
allocates the left or right spectrum to the two respective
spectrum analysers. There’s also a vector voltmeter at bottom left, to display the amplitude and phase differences
between the two signals.
With many conventional receiver functions taken over
by the PC, what’s actually inside the box? Above is a look
inside the USB-based G313e model.
The control board includes an Analog Devices digital
signal processor plus a PIC microcontroller running the
receiver. The other side, shown above right, is even more
interesting.
The receiver RF circuitry is divided into several sections.
On the left there’s the receiver’s front end, which connects
to the antenna. The amplified and filtered RF signal feeds to
the mixer and the first IF (intermediate frequency) stage at
bottom centre. At top centre is the master oscillator, based
on DDS (Direct Digital Synthesis) technology and at bottom
right, the second mixer and IF stage. All this produces a
12kHz intermediate frequency output, which is further
filtered and processed by the DSP and the host PC.
The biggest achievement is running a radio near or even
inside a PC – traditionally, a major source of electromagnetic interference. Surprisingly, there’s no trace of PC
interference with WiNRADiO receivers but they are not
about to reveal to all how this trade secret is achieved.
3.5GHz with an optional downconverter), with fast scans
and highly useful scanning-related features like CTCSS
and DCS squelch. Its likely that digital trunking decoders
are also on their way.
In addition to the basic receivers, WiNRADiO produces
many software options, such as a number of signal processing and decoding applications – for example, a DRM
decoder, which neatly “plugs” in place of the standard
“virtual demodulator” window.
VHF/UHF
WiNRADiO also makes VHF/UHF scanners. The latest
low-cost G305e model ranges from 9kHz to 1.8GHz (or even
To support their equipment, the company manufactures
a range of antennas and other accessories. For much more
information, including a full price list, visit the WiNRADiO
website: www.winradio.com.au
Where from?
WiNRADiO G305 is described as aVHF/UHF model –
which of course it is – but it covers down to 9kHz!
siliconchip.com.au
On the WinRadio website you will also find all the other
models and the peripherals and options (and there are
plenty of those!)
Of the models mentioned here, the WR-G313i sells for
$1333.27 and the WR-G313e $1599.93, while the PCI version of the G305 is $733.27 and the USB version $866.60
(all prices are plus GST).
SC
January 2007 71
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
“Degen”
Synthesised
HF Communications
Receiver
Review by Ross Tester
Elsewhere in this issue we feature “WinRadio”: a very high
performance, computer-based radio receiver. As that review was
being written, this tiny communications receiver also arrived at
SILICON CHIP. It’s very significantly cheaper, covers the complete
100kHz to 30MHz MF/HF band (with 88-108MHz broadcast band
into the bargain) and offers a wide range of user controls. We
thought it apposite to put this review in the same issue so readers
can get make their own comparisons . . .
76 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Unusually for a radio of this size, it sports a line-out
socket and, more importantly, a fine tuning control to help
resolve SSB signals. Having SSB capability brings it right
into the amateur radio market – especially at the price.
T
he first thing that strikes you
about the Degen DE1103 Communications Receiver is that it
is too small! “How can something this
size deliver on the promised performance . . .”
As one who was brought up on
the b-i-g communications receivers
of yesteryear (an ancient Geloso, if I
remember correctly!) then through a
Heathkit or two and more recently on
the ubiquitous FROGs, it does take a
bit of getting your mind around the
fact that something this size offers
performance far and away better than
those and features that weren’t even
a glint in the designer’s eye. It’s taken
the development of microprocessors
– as we saw with WinRadio – to get
this sort of performance.
So how big is it? Try 165 x 105 x
29mm - not much bigger than a typical
personal AM/FM receiver. It weighs in
at 300g plus batteries. Of course, there
have been quite a few synthesised
radios around this size in recent years
– but this is one of very few (indeed if
any!) we can recall which offers SSB
(single sideband) reception.
What’s so important about SSB? Ask
any amateur operator – it puts more
“punch power” into the signal by
sacrificing parts which can be synthesised at the receiving end. Hence, more
range. SSB on a standard AM receiver
sounds like “Donald Duck” talk.
Back to the Degen. It’s a dual conversion, PLL (phase-locked-loop)
synthesised receiver offering continuous coverage from 100kHz through to
29.999MHz, plus the FM radio band
of 88-108MHz (in stereo). And while
the jog tuning control gives surprisingly good bandspread, you can also
directly enter spot frequencies over
the entire range. If that’s not good
enough for you, there are also 255
memory channels (with memory scanning along with auto band scanning).
It is obviously intended for the avid
siliconchip.com.au
There are sockets for a long wire antenna, headphones
and a plug-pack adapator – and all are included in the
box. The batteries included are rechargeable (NiMH) types
which the external supply automatically charges.‑
shortwave listener as well as a more
general market, as the band switch
will progressively step it through the
popular shortwave radio bands: 75m,
60m, 49m, 41m, 31m, 25m, 22m, 19m,
16m and 13m, along with the FM and
AM broadcast bands.
Various combinations of pushbuttons also make it perform other
tricks, so a good read of the 28-page
instruction manual is a must if you
want to get maxium performance/
enjoyment from this radio.
There’s a couple of controls included “because they could” such as
a local/dx switch and a wide/narrow
2nd IF response switch for AM (wide
band, <6kHz, has better tone reception than narrow band [<4kHz] but it
is also noisier).
It has the obligatory digital clock
built in (with two alarms, no less) and
a 1-99 minute sleep timer.
Volume setting uses the same jog
dial as the manual tuner and we must
confess that is one feature we didn’t
like. Perhaps it’s just a matter of getting used to it but we were continually moving off frequency when we
meant to change the volume. And
speaking of volume, there is plenty!
The specs don’t mention the power
output but we found that sub-20 (out
of a maximum level of 64) was more
than enough for normal listening.
And as we mentioned earlier, using
the jog dial in conjunction with the
fine tuning control is more than good
enough to resolve SSB signals.
We didn’t try to measure sensitivity
but deemed it more than adequate.
It’s stated as <10uV on FM, <1mV/m
on MW AM and <20uV on SW AM.
And we didn’t have the opportunity
to string the long-wire antenna to see
just how much better it could be – but
Avcomm’s Garry Cratt told us that he
had done so and the performance was
even better, as one would expect. OK,
so what’s the verdict?
We’ve already mentioned the one
thing we didn’t like (again, that’s only
a preference) but there’s a lot to like
about the Degen DE1103. The one
thing we haven’t mentioned is the
price – and that was a real pleasant
surprise. Avcomm are selling this,
complete with NiMH batteries, plugpack, longwire antenna and earphones
for just $159.00 (inc GST, plus freight).
We’re trying to cast our minds back to
other receivers in the genre without
all the features of the Degen DE1103
and we can’t remember any that even
approached this price!
For more information call Avcomm
on (02) 9939 4377 or visit their website: www.avcomm.com.au
SC
WHERE
can you buy
SILICON
CHIP
You can get your copy of SILICON CHIP
every month from your newsagent: in
most it’s on sale on the last Wednesday of
the month prior to cover date. You can ask
your newsagent to reserve your copy for
you. If they do not have SILICON CHIP or it
has run out, ask them to contact Network
Distribution Company in your state.
SILICON CHIP is also on sale in all
stores . . . again, you can ask the store
manager to reserve a copy for you.
Or, to be sure that you never miss an issue
and save money into the bargain, why not
take out a subscription?
The annual cost is just $89.50 within
Australia or $96 (by airmail) to
New Zealand.
Subscribers also get further discounts on
books, and other products we sell.
January 2007 77
Here’s a cheap
and simple
battery charger
which you can
leave connected
without risk of
overcharge.
Design by
Branko Justic
Words by
Ross Tester
“Intelligent”
12V Charger
for SLA and Lead Acid Batteries
78 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
F
ollowing our look at charging cordless tool batteries
last month (Nicad and NiMH), we’re moving on to
charging their big brothers: 12V Lead Acid and Sealed
Lead Acid types.
These are much less forgiving than Nicad and NiMH
when it comes to letting them discharge – so if you have
anything which uses a 12V battery (and who doesn’t?) this
little project could get you out of a lot of trouble. It could
even be used to keep your car battery always at maximum
charge (which, incidentally, your car’s alternator/regulator
normally does not!).
Lead acid batteries of any persuasion do not like being
left discharged. In fact, a brand new battery can have its
life drastically shortened if not charged as soon as possible
after discharge.
I had to stop myself saying “as quickly as possible” just
then – in battery parlance quickly means something completely different. And that can ruin a battery just as easily!
As discussed last month, the trouble with most low-cost
chargers is that they simply keep pushing charging current
into the battery without any method of detecting the amount
of charge. So it’s easy to overcharge (and cook) a battery.
Perhaps worse, they don’t know how discharged the
battery was before you started charging it. If you’ve only
slightly flattened it you can, once again, overcharge it even
if you do remember to turn it off.
Unfortunately, we’ve all gotten used to our mobile phones
where we tend to “plug ’em in and charge ’em” regardless
of how much they’ve been used – because these days most
phones (if not the chargers) have the “smarts” to stop batteries being overcharged.
OK, so much for what we shouldn’t do. What should
we do?
There are two ways to charge a battery. The most unreliable method is to connect a charger for a certain period of
time, dependent on the charging current. It’s unreliable
for several reasons – one, (the unknown charge state)
mentioned above; another is that human “forgettory” takes
over and we leave the charger on far too long. Both result
in overcharging.
The second method is to monitor the voltage.
You probably know that as a battery discharges, its voltage drops only slowly for a period, then as its charge diminishes it starts to drop rather rapidly, until it is exhausted
(or “flat”), when the curve once again flattens out. Charging
a battery is similar – in reverse. The voltage rises quite
slowly at first, then much more quickly as it approaches
full charge. It then flattens out as it is overcharged.
If you were able to sit and graph the voltage for the
whole charging period, you would be able to pick the
point where you could say the battery was fully charged.
But who wants to do that?
Fortunately, we can nominate the point at which a battery is said to be fully charged. In a lead-acid battery, that’s
generally assumed to be about 13.8V. So all we have to
do is monitor the battery voltage and turn the charger off
when the battery reaches that level.
OK, that’s being a bit simplistic but in effect, that’s exactly
what this charger does.
It can be left connected permanently to the battery so
that when the charge level drops – whether through use
or by self-discharge – it will automatically switch itself
back on again.
siliconchip.com.au
It’s a fully self-contained mains charger which will
handle anything from small SLAs up to marine and diesel
monsters. It might take a while to charge bigger batteries
but can be left on indefinitely.
It’s intended for mains operation (after all, it is mounted
on a plugpack!) but with a little ingenuity, could also be
used as the battery charger for a solar, wind or micro hydro
installation.
How it works
The charger is based on an L4949 precision voltage reference and regulator, as was used in the Auxiliary Battery
Controller last month. For more information on this chip,
refer to last month’s article.
It is powered by a 9V AC plugpack, connected to a
simple half-wave voltage doubler consisting of 1000mF
and 100mF capacitors and diodes D1 and D2. This gives
January 2007 79
4.7k
~
~ +29V DC
(NO LOAD)
E
C
K
B
+
Q1
BD682
LEDS
A
Q2
C8050
B
8.2k
3
IC2b
1
4
2
E
D1
1N5819
IC2a
4.7k
82k
8
100 µF
82k
CHARGING
LED1
D3 1N4148
5
K
A
IC2c 14
1k
10
6
11
4.7k
A
λ
K
SC
B
IC2: 4093B
100 µF*
K
2007
E
C
+5V
82k
1000 µF*
A
E
8.2k
C
9V AC
INPUT
1
2
* HIGH RIPPLE,
HIGH
TEMPERATURE
TYPES
C
B
BD682
8
BD6
K
D2
A 1N5819
100 µF
C8050
9
12
TO
BATTERY
2
7
13
CHARGED A
LED2
IC1
L4949
8
λ
7 IC2d
82k
5
47 µF
22nF
18k
K
INTELLIGENT 12v BATTERY CHARGER
1N5819
1N4148
A
A
K
–
K
Q1 switches charging current on when the battery voltage sensed by IC1 falls below a preset threshold. Once the
battery is charged, it switches off again. This means that the battery will not be overcharged.
an unloaded, pulsating DC voltage in
the region of 29V.
The two capacitors are special
types, capable of handling the high
ripple current of the voltage doubler
and also have a higher-than-normal
temperature rating, as they can run
rather warm.
The current this simple arrangement is capable of supplying is limited
largely by the reactance of the 1000mF
capacitor and the plugpack supply –
it’s in the order of a couple of amperes.
But remember that this is a half-wave
supply so as it stands it has far too
much ripple (hum) to use for anything
but a battery charger!
Now let’s turn our attention to IC1,
the L4949. It’s used in a similar way to
last month, detecting a voltage at pin
2 and switching a series of logic gates
in IC2, a 4093 quad Schmitt NAND,
via its output, pin 7.
Once again, the chip’s internal 5V
regulator is used to supply a stable
voltage to the gates, which in this circuit are connected as inverters (both
inputs connected together).
The battery voltage is monitored
at pin 2 of IC1. As the battery is
drained and its voltage falls below
IC1’s threshold, an internal transistor connected to the output (pin 7)
is turned on, resulting in the output
falling to logic level 0. This drives the
inputs of paralleled gates IC2c and
IC2d low. Their outputs then go high,
forward biasing diode D3 and very
quickly charging the 47mF capacitor
at its cathode.
IC2b’s inputs are then taken high,
sending its output low. Because
there is no drive for LED2, it stays
extinguished. But IC2a’s inputs are
now also low, sending its output
high. LED1 does have drive and now
lights, indicating the battery is being
charged.
At the same time, the NPN transistor
Q2 is fully turned on, which in turn
pulls the base of Darlington transistor
Q1 low, turning it fully on.
In this role Q1 is simply an on or off
switch. When it is turned on, current
can flow into the battery, which starts
to charge. The voltage doubler is incapable of maintaining the (unloaded)
peak voltage and it drops down to
around 15V or so.
Eventually, the battery charges and
the voltage at IC1’s pin 2 exceeds the
threshold voltage. The output (pin 7)
is now pulled high by the 82kW resis-
The plugpack has two plastic guards (see left) which need to be removed so that the
PC board can sit flat. They break out easily with a pair of pliers, then a little judicious
paring with a sharp knife removes any remnants. It’s easier to do with the screws out!
80 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
(1000mF) is a very tight fit between
Q2 and the edge of the transformer,
so you might have to juggle it a bit
to get it in. Solder in Q2 at the same
time as the 1000mF to make sure it fits
properly. We decided to drill another
hole in the PC board to get the best fit
for this capacitor.
All that’s left is Q1, the Darlington
transistor. It mounts with its metal side
up and its heatsink is then screwed
down onto it. First, though, you’ll have
to bend the three legs down 90° to go
through the PC board.
This is a bit tricky because you also
have to make sure the hole through Q1
aligns with the hole in the PC board.
When you think you have the bend
right, temporarily secure Q1 to the PC
board with the screw and nut before
9V AC IN
Building it
D1
100 µF
+
o
1000 µF
+
5819
5819
105
82k
1k
D3
4148
IC2 4093B
4.7k
4.7k
D2
Q2
LED2
+
soldering it in – that way, you can be
sure it is in the right place and the
solder joints won’t be stressed when
you tighten the nut on permanently.
Solder Q1 in, then fit the heatsink
with the single nut and screw from the
underside of the board. The heatsink,
which is up off the PC board by the
height of Q1, hides two resistors and
partly obscures two more.
Fitting to the transformer
The PC board is designed to screw
directly to the output terminals of the
supplied plugpack transformer. It can
also be used with another PC board
screw terminal block to connect to a
transformer without the screw terminals. Note that it must be a transformer
(AC output), not a DC supply.
We’ll assume that you are using the
TO
BATTERY
UNDER
CHARGE –
Q1
V+
+
C8050
(Q1 METAL SIDE UP)
BD682
GND
The same-size photo at left matches the
component overlay diagram of the assembled
board at right. The 1000mF capacitor (right
top) is a rather tight fit! It and the other brown
100mF electro are both 105° types.
o
4.7k
IC1
L4949
LED1
82k
18k
22nF
100 µF
100 µF
105
8.2k
8.2k
CHARGED CHARGING
+
siliconchip.com.au
47 µF
© oatleyelectronics.com
The first thing to do is a little surgery on the plugpack. It has a couple
of guards moulded into the plastic
around its screw terminals – but these
are right in the way of where we want
to mount the PC board!
It’s quite easy to break these out
with a pair of pliers. You may need
to clean the area a little with a sharp
knife because the PC board needs to
sit flat.
By the way, temporarily securing
the PC board upside down onto the
transformer makes it a handy little
soldering holder!
After checking the PC board for any
defects, start assembly by soldering in
the resistors and non-polarised capacitor. Use the resistor colour code table
and/or a DMM to check their values
– particularly the 82kW and 8.2kW
(they’re easy to mix up!).
Next to solder in are the two IC sockets, making sure the notches match the
PC board screen overlay, along with
the screw terminal connector.
The three diodes and two LEDs are
next – watch the polarity and note that
the two 1N5819 diodes at the top of
the PC board mount opposite to each
other. Both LEDs can be mounted hard
down on the PC board. The cathodes
(shorter leads closest to the flat edge
of the base of the LED) mount towards
the bottom of the PC board.
Now solder in the four smaller
electrolytic capacitors, taking care
with polarity. The largest electrolytic
240V – 9V AC
PLUGPACK
+
tor to +5V. As the inputs to IC2c and
IC2d are now high, their outputs are
low, IC2b’s output is high and LED 2
lights, indicating that the battery is
charged.
With IC2a’s input high, its output
must be low, therefore Q2 receives no
forward bias and both it and Q1 turn
off, shutting off the charging current
to the battery.
This doesn’t remove power from
the monitoring circuit because it continues to be powered by the charged
battery.
We mentioned the 47mF capacitor at
the junction of IC2a and IC2b before
but not since. It, along with the 82kW
resistor in parallel, form a short time
delay. The 82kW resistor discharges
the capacitor slowly, preventing the
circuit from “hunting” back and forth,
which it could do as the battery loads
down the main supply voltage.
82k
82k
K215
HEATSINK
MOUNTS ABOVE
RESISTORS ON TOP
OF TRANSISTOR
transformer included in the kit – with
the screw terminals.
After giving the assembled PC board
a thorough check to make sure the
components are in the right places, in
the right polarity (where appropriate)
and are soldered in properly, the board
can be attached to the transformer. The
photographs show this clearly.
The two screw terminals are on the
underside of the transformer. The PC
board is attached to the transformer
with the screws on the same side of the
board as the copper tracks. (Mounting
it the opposite way around, though
possible and will not do any harm,
will not allow the charger to fit into
a wall-mounted power point because
the components will be in the way).
Undo the screws enough to slide
the board in, copper side up, then
January 2007 81
Parts List –
12V Battery Charger
1 PC board, 53 x 54mm, coded
OE-K215
1 240V-9VAC/2.22A plugpack
1 mini finned heatsink
1 8-pin IC socket
1 14-pin IC socket
1 2-way screw terminal block,
PC mounting
1 M3 x 10mm screw, nut &
washer
Semiconductors
1 L4949 5V regulator and voltage
sensor IC (IC1)
1 4093 or 4011 quad NAND
Schmitt trigger (IC2)
1 BD682 PNP Darlington
transistor (Q1)
1 C8050 NPN transistor (Q2)
2 1N5819 Schottky diodes
(D1, D2)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D3)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 5mm green LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 1000mF 50V 105°C electrolytic
(do not substitute)
1 100mF 50V 105°C electrolytic
(do not substitute)
2 100mF 35V electrolytic
1 47mF 16V electrolytic
1 22nF polyester
(code 22n or 223)
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
4 82kW 1 18kW 2 8.2kW
3 4.7kW 1 1kW
do them up tightly so that they grip
the PC board and make contact with
the tinned copper area. It’s as simple
as that!
If your PC board doesn’t sit flat, it’s
probable that you have some remnants
of the plastic guard ridges stopping it
being screwed right down.
This close-up photo of the edge of the
PC board shows how the heatsink
is bolted to the transistor (Q1)
underneath, with some resistors also
beneath the heatsink. Q1 lies flat on the
PC board with its metal face upwards
to make contact with the heatsink.
Testing
Without any battery connected,
plug the charger into a power point
and turn it on. The red “charging”
LED should light. If it does, you can
be reasonably confident everything
else is OK.
If you measure the voltage at the
output connector, it should be somewhere around or above 25V DC.
Now connect a length of polarised
figure-8 cable to the output connectors and connect the other ends to
a 12V battery – watch the polarity!
A pair of alligator clips on the cable
make this easy.
The voltage at the output terminals
will drop significantly, depending on
the state of charge of the battery. With
a known “good” but discharged battery (eg, one that hasn’t been sitting
around discharged for months!) this
voltage could be somewhere around
10-12V. As the battery charges, this
voltage will rise up to a maximum of
about 15V, at which stage the green
LED will come on indicating that the
battery is charged.
The green LED flashes?
We mentioned earlier that there
is a time delay built into the circuit
to prevent it hunting back and forth.
This also has another effect: periodically, the red LED goes out and the
green LED comes on. This is not indicating full charge – the green LED
Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
1
2
3
1
Value
82kW
18kW
8.2kW
4.7kW
1kW
82 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
grey red orange brown
brown grey orange brown
grey red red brown
yellow purple red brown
brown black red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
grey red black red brown
brown grey black red brown
grey red black brown brown
yellow purple black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
Here’s how the PC board mounts
onto the transformer, after the
plastic guards have been removed. It
will work the other way up but the
components will stop the plugpack
fitting on a wall-mounted outlet.
stays on constantly when the battery
is charged.
What happens is that the 82kW
resistor discharges the 47mF capacitor, switching the charging off. But if
the L4949 hasn’t registered a charged
battery, the capacitor charges again,
turning the charging back on. This
happens continuously while the battery is charging.
If you wish, the frequency at which
this switching occurs can be decreased
by increasing the 82kW resistor and/
or the 47mF capacitor. A value of 1MW
and 100mF will increase the time to
100 seconds.
It’s running hot!
Several components in this project
run quite warm, even hot, to the touch.
The transformer, for example, can get
quite warm (but it should never get
uncomfortably hot). Q1 (on its heatsink) has to dissipate a fair amount so
it can get too hot to touch. Indeed, if
you are wanting to charge car batteries, the PC board-mounted heatsink
is probably inadequate and should be
replaced with a bigger unit. For small
SLA batteries, it should be OK.
Finally, the 1000mF and 100mF
capacitors in the voltage doubler will
run fairly warm – but they are 105°,
high ripple types and are designed to
handle the heat.
SC
Where from, how much?
This project was designed by Oatley
Electronics, who hold the copyright.
A complete kits of parts, including the
special 9V AC plugpack transformer, is
available for $18.00 plus $7.00 pack &
post within Australia (Cat K215).
Contact Oatley Electronics, PO Box 89,
Oatley NSW 2223, or via their website,
www.oatleyelectronics.com
siliconchip.com.au
HIGH CURRENT RELAY INTERFACE KIT K236
HIGH VOLTAGE WARNING:
As this kit involves a dangerous and potentially lethal
high voltage, only persons experienced with high
voltage wiring techniques should attempt its
construction.
This relay based interface kit can switch up to 20A at
mains potential, whilst only drawing a few milliamperes
from the logic source, such as a microprocessors, digital
logic circuits, computers etc. It could be used in various
applications such as industrial controls, motors,
solenoids, consumer appliances, etc.
The relay used is made
by Omron model G7L-1A-P,
listed contact rating of 30A.
20A 277VAC(GEN),
20A 120VAC(GEN),
1.5KW 120VAC(XT),
1.5HP 120VAC,
3HP 277VAC,
SOLAR PANEL WITH BATTERY AND CHARGING SYSTEM
NOT DRAWN TO SCALE
This system uses 1 X SP10 10W solar panel, 1 X K008B solar
regulator kit and 1 X PB6 Sealed lead acid battery. Ideal for remote
locations for lighting, radio or TV etc. Simple to connect and simple
to install. Locate the panel facing north in a position of maximum
sun exposure. The K008B regulator then looks after the charging of
the battery automatically, so it does not over charge. Normal price
for this system $165.00. Buy all three together for just $140.00
For a mean 5 hour solar day the battery would receive a charge
of 3.5AHr's from a 10W solar panel: Sufficient to power one of
the lamps below for 42 hours or all 5 lamps for 8 hours!
$22ea
or
r
3 fo
$50
BATTERY
K248 14V INVERTER WITH 5 MR16 14V/1W LED LAMPS
This simple inverter kit is designed to power these 14V
lamps from a 12V lighting transformer or 12V battery.
Operating range from 8V - 15V, 3mA <at> 12V quiescent,
340mA with 5 lamps. Delivers a constant voltage to the
lamps. The kit includes PCB, all onboard components
inc, pre-wound inductors. This package is designed to
K243 HIGH POWER REVERSIBLE DC MOTOR
be used with the above solar system. It can also be
SPEED CONTROLLER KIT
This kit is suitable for 10V to 30V motors. At 24V it can be used with our K237 low voltage cutout kit to protect
used to power our 500W motors, up to 1KW when batteries from over discharging. K248 $49
additional MOSFETs are added (extra MOSFETs $10).
The kit can be used with a single potentiometer or a 12mS R/C pulse. Kit inc. PCB & all on board parts. K243
$36
TV-10 120VAC,
20A 240V~cosf1,
20A 240V~cosf0.4,
20A 120V~cosf0.4.
NEW DOG SILENCER KIT
A new improved high power swept ultrasonic generator
kit. It distracts dogs from their "Barking Loop" behaviour.
Each time the dog barks press the onboard pushbutton or
optional remote transmitter button to distract the dog from
their "Barking Loop" behaviour. The output frequency and
sweep rate are adjustable. Unlike previous versions the
transformers are fully pre-wound and there is no coil
winding to be done. Kit includes PCB, two tweeters and all
onboard components.
KIT: (K232) $33.
Remote UHF trigger: (K232O)
Brand new in original packaging. These temperature $23, Plugpack: (PP15) $10
controllers are self-operating, requiring no operating
power. Temperature range 5 to 30°C. This device simply
opens and closes a switch at the pre-set temperature.
Would make a great controller for home brew or turn that
old fridge into a wine cooler. Dimensions: 128 (W) x
73mm (H) x 55 (D) mm. Weight: 0.25kg. ZC0607:$24
DPM1 3 1/2 LCD PANEL METER:
Check out our website fo more industrial switch gear etc.
ZC0607 MECHANICAL AMBIENT
TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER
USED 100~240VAC-12V<at>2.5A
POWER SUPPLY
These switch mode power supplies are used but
in good condition. They require a common IEC
mains lead, we will supply the IEC lead for an
additional $1. Measures 120mm X 60mm X
35mm. Power supply (DELTA1) $10
360deg. hemisphere detection,
360deg. 8M adjustable
time & light, mains
PIR SENSOR (DANGER) or 12V oper. 12V
relay contacts O/P. Circuit
K247
diagram inc. Sensor dim. dome
46dia. X 31mm(H), (91mm
$12.50
overall). Can be setup to be
impossible to approach without
triggering.
NEW AUDIO/VIDEO TRANSMITTER / RECEIVER KIT:
This kit (K229T and K229R) are designed to transmit
and receive video & stereo audio and to be as small as
practical. Includes PCB, modules & all on-board parts.
An antenna such as our K198 2.4GHz TX / RX
ANTENNA KIT will increase the range of the K229T.
K229T
$17
Model # PM128. 0.5" LCD, 3.5 Digit, easy bezel
fixing method. Dim. 68mmX44mm.DPM1 $9
PANEL METER INTERFACE KIT:
(CDLS) CENTRAL DOOR LOCK SYSTEM
Complete central locking system for a 12V vehicle.
Comes with one master and three slave actuators, a
control box, wiring loom and all the necessary hardware.
Weight approx. 1.1kgs. $22
(ACTU) CENTRAL LOCKING ACTUATORS
These are the same as the slave actuators used in the
above central locking system. $5ea.
CLEARANCE
$29
K229R
VRM1 24 SECOND VOICE / SOUND RECORDER
MODULE:
This small pre-built module will record up to 24 seconds
of sound at the push of a button, then play it back at the
push of a second button. Requires 6VDC to operate.
Measures 34mm X 22mm Comes with a 29mm speaker.
Now just 3 modules for $10
Add on isolation PCB with shunt/voltage divider for
different voltages & current. The kit measures up to 20A
and 12V with a wide range of adjustment. It has a built-in
DC to DC isolated power supply to power the DPM1 at a
very economical 3-5mA. This low current helps to reduce
the drain on solar systems etc. K212 PCB is the same
size as the meter (DPM1) and is designed to solder to
and stack on the back of the DPM1. Kit includes PCB and
all on-board components. KIT PRICE: (K212) $9.00
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_JAN_07
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
The multi-purpose tape machine
Old tape-based answering machines can
now be picked up for next to nothing or
perhaps you’ve got one stashed away in the
cupboard. Here are few ideas to put it to use.
Tape-based telephone answering machines are now available free where ever
electrical junk is discarded. So what can you do with them? As described in
the text, there are plenty of novel messaging applications.
84 Silicon Chip
L
OOK AT THESE PICTURES – seen
one of these before? If you said,
“Yeah, of course I have – it’s just an
old telephone answering machine”
then think again. What you have in
front of you is really a multi-purpose
tape machine – one that’s able to leap
tall buildings, etc . . .
Well, not quite but it’s certainly
capable of forming the basis for some
interesting “no-cost” projects.
Want some examples? OK, you live
on a main road where there’s a constant
stream of charity collectors and fervent
religious followers continually coming
to your door. You’re not against giving to charities but you’d prefer to do
it on your terms not theirs and your
religious beliefs are already firmly
held. Here’s where that old answering
machine comes in – you can use it to
get rid of them.
Imagine this: you’re just settling
down to build a brand new electronic
kit and the doorbell rings. You just
know it’s not anyone you want to talk
to so you just press a button that’s
linked to the answering machine.
One press is all that’s needed and the
message is clearly and loudly played
to those door squatters: “Thank you
but I am not interested in anything
that you have to sell or collect. Please
leave my property forthwith. This is
a recording so don’t bother answering
back. The guard dog will be automatically released in 30 seconds”!
And if you want to really want to
drive the message home, you can have
a harangue lasting up to a minute! Ha!
– that’ll show ’em.
Well, you get the idea, although in
practice you might want the message
to be a bit more restrained than that.
In short, anywhere that a recorded
message is needed at the push of a
button, this machine can be used for
it. And if you’re thinking, “why use a
siliconchip.com.au
Introducing the new
and exciting range of
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and Gas Torches
BONUS PACK
2 FOR 1
UNDER
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R.R.P.
The unit we used was the Shimasu F-7010. It was listed in the Dick Smith
Electronics 1996-97 catalog for $59.95 but can now be picked up at garage
sales, secondhand stores and the like for a dollar or two. We got ours from
a municipal tip, so it cost nothing at all.
tape machine in this day and age?”,
just consider the available message
length and the cost. First, the machine
costs nothing (or almost nothing)
because you already had it stashed
away in a cupboard or you scrounged
it. And second, some tape answering
machines can run a 3-minute message!
Our answering machine
The unit we used was the Shimasu
F-7010. It was listed in the Dick Smith
Electronics 1996 catalog for $59.95 and
can now be picked up at garage sales,
secondhand stores and the like for a
dollar or two. The unit shown here
came from a municipal tip, so it cost
nothing at all.
Recording & playing a message
After you’ve made sure that there’s a
tape inside the machine and it’s powered up, follow these steps. To record
the message, press the OGM (out-going
message) button until the LED flashes.
Record your message and release the
button. To play what you have just
recorded, simply momentarily press
the OGM button – it really can’t get
much easier than that.
Temp to 1300 oC
Supplied with
Bonus Pocket
Torch valued at
$12.95 R.R.P.
Model No.
MT6000SB
MICRO TORCH
The smallest ever
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GAS TRIGGER TORCH
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Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without a
lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use bits
and pieces sourced from discards, sometimes in mini-projects and other times as
an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
siliconchip.com.au
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear from
you. Perhaps you use the pressure switch
from a washing machine to control a pump.
Or maybe you have a use for the highquality bearings from VCR heads. Or
perhaps you’ve found how the guts of a
cassette player can be easily turned into
a metal detector. (Well, we made the last
one up but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
Model No.
PT16TS
o
Soldering up to 400 C
Torch to 1300 oC
o
Hot Blow to 500 C
Anti-Flare
Wind Resistant
R.R.P. Free Standing
Auto Ignition
UNDER
$59.00
Model No. HT882
For your nearest stockist visit:
www.hotdevil.com.au
or phone: (03) 9775 0713
January 2007 85
As this photo shows, accessing the Outgoing Message Record pushbutton wiring, the speaker and the microphone
is easy. It’s then straightforward to turn the old answering machine into a voice-warning annunciator, a talking
burglar alarm, or even a sound generator in a model train layout.
Note: the above steps are for the
Shimasu F-7010 answering machine.
Other tape-based answering machines
work in similar fashion.
A few uses
There are plenty of uses that can be
made of a warning message tape. Some
are fun and others more serious. Here’s
three examples:
(1) Model railway sounds – the big
advantage over generic sound simulator chips is that you can actually
record real train sounds! One example is the sound of “ding-dong” level
crossing bells – you can record these
(perhaps with another tape recorder)
and then the sound will be as realistic
as possible. On the layout, the tape
machine can be triggered by a reed
switch activated by a magnet in the
approaching train.
(2) Interior car alarm – how would
you feel as a thief if the owner started
warning you ominously? “Warning!
Warning! This car is being stolen. GPS
tracking has been enabled. Warning!
Warning!” It’s easy to do if the tape
machine is triggered by a momentary
input. Feed this message through
a cheap car audio amplifier and an
external horn speaker and very few
thieves would proceed!
(3) Industrial warning – this could be
used to explain an “idiot light”; eg,
“Low oil pressure has been detected.
Turn off the engine immediately.
Damage will result if the engine keeps
running. This is the low oil pressure
alarm”.
The modifications
Very little needs to be done to the
machine to modify it for its new role
– in fact, maybe nothing at all. For
most applications, where the machine
will be triggered remotely, it’s a case
of opening it up and then connecting
a new momentary pushbutton switch
(or reed switch or relay contacts) via
flying leads in parallel with the “OGM”
button.
To improve the recorded sound, you
may want to remove the microphone
from the case and re-position it, so that
your voice is recorded more clearly.
The playback also benefits substantially from a larger, more efficient
speaker. If you want to get really loud,
there’s nothing stopping you adding
an amplifier. The volume control on
the side of the answering machine
should be set to match the amplifier’s
input level.
Don’t forget that cleaning the tape
head (use methylated spirits and a
cotton bud) and using a new tape can
also appreciably lift the sound quality.
Finally, don’t skimp on the quality of the message. For example, in
the case of a burglar alarm warning,
there’s nothing to stop you adding
police sirens and running foot-steps
as background audio to the warning
message. That’ll really scare ‘em! SC
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies safe with these handy binders.
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3295 and quote your credit card number.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Have you been watching the 2006 Ashes Cricket series? If so,
you are unlikely to have missed the TV advertising promotion of
“Boonanza” and the “Battle of the Tashes”. The idea is that you
purchase two figurines of David Boon and Ian Botham, set them up
in front of your TV and they will then make comments during the
televised cricket matches. So how do they do it?
The technical story of
By LEO SIMPSON
siliconchip.com.au
January 2007 87
T
his must be one of the greatest
marketing ploys of all time. You
go and buy a couple of “slabs” of
VB (Victoria Bitter beer for the uninitiated) and this gives you the codes you
need to buy a pair of plastic figurines
of popular ex-cricketers David Boon
and Ian Botham.
Set up in the room where you watch
television, these will then make loud
comments pertaining to cricket and
VB. In other words, you pay money
to buy a pair of dolls that will then
advertise beer!
There’s even a web-site (www.boonanza.com.au) to promote the promotion and newsgroups have sprung up
to log Boony’s and Beefy’s (Botham’s)
comments and remarks. Their remarks
are apparently spontaneous and they
do interact. For example, if Boony
asks Beefy to “Throw me a VB”, Beefy
answers, “Nah, you’ll only drop it”.
We saw a press story on these
figurines which indicated that the
figurines were reacting to data signals
sent during the TV broadcasts using a
proprietary technique developed by US
company Veil Interactive Technologies
Inc. (www.veilinteractive.com)
“Very interesting,” we thought – and
we set out to find out more.
Our first step was to contact the Nine
network to see if they would give us the
inside story on this technology – but we
could not get any comment.
So we did the logical thing: obtain a
pair of figurines. But no, we didn’t get
them from the local liquor shop – we
already had enough VB! Instead,
we purchased ours on eBay.
Well there is more than one
way to skin a cat so we thought we
would observe the TV screen when
ever Boony or Beefy was moved to
make a comment. This would give
the clues to the signal being used
in the Veil Technology method and
we could even use our 200MHz digital
scope to analyse the recorded signal.
The scope can display any line of a
TV frame and so it should be an
easy matter to recognise a data
stream. Possibly we could
even duplicate the signal and
send it to Boony to get him
to speak.
In more detail, the “veil”
in Veil Technolgy stands for
“video encoded invisible
light” and we thought that
this might also be a useful
clue as to how the data signal
88 Silicon Chip
might be incorporated into the TV picture. So perhaps the signal is modulated
straight into the picture and not in the
blanking interval and is done in such
a way that it is invisible to the normal
viewer.
After watching many hours of the
second Ashes cricket match in Adelaide (all done in the interests of
science, of course), we came to the
conclusion that a “veil” was indeed
being rapidly wiped across the whole
screen at the beginning and end of each
action replay in the match broadcast.
These wipes are very rapid and consist
of three of four diagonal white stripes
of differing widths – presumably 100%
peak video modulation and thus most
readily picked up via any optical sensor within the figurines. Was this the
method being used?
What a great scheme! Presumably the
Nine Network could send a different
data stream each time there was an action replay and Boony and Beefy could
then make comments as to whether
someone was out, whether it was great
bowling and so on. Well that was the
theory but in practice Boony and Beefy
never responded to these great cricket
moments. In fact, their remarks never
seemed to relate to the game or the
picture on-screen. Furthermore, they
Boony and
Beefy. They
talk to each
other – but
is there a TV
trigger?
seemed to make comments just as frequently if the TV was off!
So what was going on? Was this a
likely explanation for Veil Technology
and was it not being used during the
Adelaide Test? Or is something entirely
different going on?
It was time to take the screwdriver
to these locquacious little loudmouths!
And they didn’t protest one little bit.
Upturning the base of the figurine
reveals one small screw which retains
the lid of the battery compartment
which holds three AA cells. Another
four screws retain the base of the green
plastic pedestal. Inside is a small blue
PC board measuring about 40 x 40mm
and an 8W loudspeaker about 30mm
in diameter.
Components on top of the PC board
include a button cell (presumably for
memory backup when the AA cells are
flat or being replaced), a watch crystal
(at 32kHz?), two electrolytic capacitors,
a momentary contact switch and what
appears to be a 455kHz ceramic resonator (marked 455E). Significantly, there
is what appears to be a 3-lead infrared
receiver/decoder chip (similar to that
used in our infrared Remote Control
Extender project featured in the October 2006 issue) and a companion clear
LED – presumably also an infrared
emitter.
These two infrared components “look out” through the dark
infrared filter window on the
side the base – so the figurines
can talk with one another.
On the other side of the
PC board is a host of surface-mount components
which evidently include a
microcontroller, amplifier circuitry and so on. Also present
is another momentary contact
switch (used in production
setup perhaps?). Incidentally,
this board is quite different in
component count to those used
in Boony for the 2005 Ashes
series. Some details of
this previous Boony are
to be found on a number
of newsgroups. One
other piece of evidence
is that our Boony’s
PC board was labelled
“Ocean Unicorn Ver A
Jul 11 06”.
Ocean Unicorn, as
far as we can ascertain,
is a small Hong-Kong
siliconchip.com.au
The only way (at least that we can
see in our Boony and Beefy figurines)
for the two to communicate with the
outside world is via a small infrared
window moulded into their bases.
This was further borne out when we
disassembled both and found what
was lurking behind those windows. . .
It’s an infared receiver, with an
infrared LED alongside, (seen here
right in the front centre of the PC
board). There’s no microphone here,
so it’s not picking up audio signals,
as has been suggested on various
websites. (Incidentally, last season’s
Boony did have a microphone).
No great surprises on the underside of
the PC board either! The black blobs
hide the CPU and presumably some
form of ROM, while other devices
of interest have had their markings
removed. You can also see the small
8W speaker up inside the base of the
figurine in this shot.
based electronics design house/manufacturer.
So what are our conclusions? Based
on the fact that the main sensor appears
to be an infrared receiver/decoder, the
figurines seem unlikely to be able to
respond to any data embedded in the
TV pictures being broadcast during
cricket matches or at any other time.
This seems borne out by the fact that
the figurines never sounded at critical
times and could just as easily sound
when the TV was off. Nor do the instructions accompanying the figurines
make any mention of them being
placed near a TV set. So much for Veil
Technology in this particular case.
The remarks made by Boony and
Beefy are probably in response to a
time/date counter in the microcontroller – hence the particular date code on
the PC board and the need for a backup
battery which would be necessary to
maintain time-keeping.
So if you have been intrigued by the
“Battle of the Tashes” and “Boonanza”,
you probably should not spend too
much more time wondering how it
is done.
However, you cannot help admiring what must be one of the greatest
marketing ploys ever. Not that we were
taken in by it for a minute.
After all that, I am feeling pretty
thirsty. I wonder if there is any cold
VB left in the fridge?
SC
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(School orders only – John - 03 8802 0628)
January 2007 89
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
World’s fastest USB Oscilloscope
from PICO
Pico Technology has unveiled the
PicoScope 5204, a dual-channel PC
Oscilloscope with a bandwidth of
250MHz, a memory depth of 128 million samples and a real-time sampling
rate of 1 GS/s.
All other oscilloscopes in this price
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sampling rate, bandwidth or memory
depth. The PicoScope 5204 excels in
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The PicoScope 5204 connects to the
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advanced triggering and an equivalenttime sampling mode that can boost the
sampling rate to 20 GS/s for repetitive
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include a built-in 250 MHz spectrum
analyser and a 12 bit, 125 MS/s arbitrary waveform generator.
The PicoScope 5204 is
supplied with PicoScope
6, the latest release of
Pico’s oscilloscope software, which takes advantage of the power
of a modern PC to offer
high-end oscilloscope
features with an easy-touse Windows interface.
New features include a
waveform buffer that automatically
records the last 32 waveforms and a
“probe manager” that includes support for custom probes such as current
clamps and allows users to define
their own probes, even those requiring
nonlinear corrections. With its USB
streaming capability at speeds of up
to 6 MS/s, the oscilloscope is ideal
for high-speed data acquisition, as it
can record huge sequences of gap-free
data limited only
by the memory
of the PC. Pico-
Multi-channel UHF Radio Modem
The Radiometrix TDH2 is a
9600 baud half-duplex multichannel OEM radio modem with a
power output of 25mW. This product acts as an intermediate-level
OEM radio modem which fits
between a raw FM radio module
and a highly-sophisticated OEM
radio modem device.
Taking care of the preamble, synchronisation, bit balancing and error checking stages of development to provide
a transparent serial cable to an attached host, it is a 100%
pin-compatible drop-in replacement for the company’s
TDL2A. It can be used as an alternative to its predecessor
in application areas where greater levels of radiated power
are likely to be desired.
The modem’s default operating frequency is set at
433.925MHz. The adjacent channel rejection is 60dB at
±320kHz. It has a transmit power of +14dBm (25mW),
and a receive sensitivity of -105dBm (for 1% BER). It
is capable of supporting up to five Contact:
user-programmed RF Modules Pty Ltd
wideband chan- PO Box 1957, Launceston Tas 7250
nels, with channel Tel: (03) 6331 6789 Fax: (03) 6331 1243
widths of 320kHz. Website: www.rfmodules.com.au
90 Silicon Chip
Scope 6 can also display automated
measurements that range from a simple multimeter style voltage readout
to advanced statistical and monitoring
functions.
Contact:
Emona Instruments Pty Ltd
86 Parramatta Rd Camperdown NSW 2050
Tel: (02) 9519 3933 Fax: (02) 9550 1378
Website: www.emona.com.au
“MERLIN”
Safe
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Practical and Versatile
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The “Merlin” originally designed for Media Training use in High
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New Jaycar NSW store and new SA location
Jaycar Electronics has opened its
latest store at Machinery Drive, Tweed
Heads South, N.S.W. The store is over
200 square metres and has ample off
street customer parking right outside
the door.
Like other Jaycar stores there is a
wide range of electronic products
available including home, car and
commercial alarms, audio and video
accessories, a fantastic range of car
audio include subwoofer and amps,
electronic components, test and measurement equipment, tools, leads and
cable. For the summer season there
is an extensive range of camping and
outdoor products including power
inverters, solar panels, batteries and
accessories.
If you’re travelling these holidays
make sure your home or office is
secure with an easy to install and
maintain digital video surveillance
system or alarm.
Jaycar stores are staffed by local
electronics enthusiasts who understand their products and can provide
excellent technical service and this
new store in Tweed Heads is no different! In addition, this year Jaycar
celebrates 25 years in retailing and
has many great in-store promotions.
Definitely worth a visit!
Jaycar have also relocated their
Clovelly Park, SA, store because staff
found conditions a little too hot to
handle . . . the new (temporary) store
is located at 2/1156 South Road, just
39m down the road from the old (burnt
out!) store.
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 6424, Silverwater NSW 1811
Tel: (02) 9741 8555 Fax: (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Tektronix appoints TekMark as Australian distributor
TekMark Australia Pty Ltd has been
appointed by Tektronix as the authorised Australian distributor for its
general purpose instruments business.
This partnership gives customers
uninterrupted accessibility to latest
technology and will enable Tektronix
and TekMark Australia to address and
satisfy the needs of mutual customers
in Australia.
The Tektronix range of products
will be a key component of TekMark
Australia’s portfolio of test & measurement solutions and includes oscilloscopes, logic analysers, real-time
spectrum analysers, signal sources
and video test equipment.
The TekMark Group of companies
offers advanced test, measurement
and monitoring instruments as well
as integrated best-practice solutions
and services to support the growing
needs of high-tech industries.
siliconchip.com.au
In the November issue we reported
that RS Components Ltd was a finalist in
the Elektra 06 Awards in Europe.
As we went to press it was announced
that the company had beaten strong
competition from Datec Technologies,
Farnell InOne, and Samsung to win the
Environmental Award.
The judges awarded the trophy to RS
in recognition of the work the company
has done in preparation for the RoHS
directive, which came into effect in July
of this year.
As well as providing a host of services
to help customers understand and meet
with the legislation, the company also
worked with over 700 suppliers to obtain
product compliance information. Its
range of services includes compliance
seminars, an online Knowledge Centre
(www.rsaustralia.com/rohs), and the
Notify Me service, where customers are
emailed with the compliance status of
unconfirmed products.
RS has also kept customers up-to-date
by introducing product compliance flags
throughout the online order process and
the introduction of printable certificates
of compliance.
The award was presented to RS at
the 2006 Elektra European Electronics
Industry Awards, held in Munich.
Contact:
Contact:
RS Components Pty Ltd
TekMark Australia
302/18 Orion Rd, Lane Cove NSW 2066
Tel: (02) 9911 3888 Fax: (02) 9418 8485
Website: www.tekmark.net.au
Central Coast Field Day: it’s only a month away!
One of the “most-looked-forward-to”
days on the amateur and technology
calendar, the Central Coast Field Day,
is on again at the Wyong Race Course
on Sunday, February 18th.
The Central Coast Field Day is
Australia’s largest Amateur Radio exhibition, with plenty of new and used
radio and communication equipment
on offer.
There are always bargains to be had
at the flea market where, along with individuals trading their treasures, many
suppliers unload excess stocks, samples
and other goodies at prices you will
never find in their retail stores.
RS Components wins
Environmental Award
You can also view exhibits by amateur
and communications clubs and groups
with interests ranging from vintage radio
through to satellite communications –
and everything in between.
Wyong Race Course is a one-hour
drive north of Sydney (with a good train
service too!) and gates open at 8.30am.
If it’s anything like previous years, there
will be a queue at the gate waiting to
rush in and bag the best bargains!
For more information (and possibly
even late stall bookings?) contact the
Central Coast Amateur Radio Club on
(02) 4340 2500 or via their website,
www.ccarc.org.au
SC
PO Box 6864, Wetherill Park NSW. 1851
Tel: 1300 656 636 Fax: (02) 9681 8614
Website: www.rsaustralia.com
TOROIDAL
POWER TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
January 2007 91
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Philips RF5 Stereogram
Now considered to be relics of a bygone era,
stereo radiograms (or stereograms) were
common during the 1960s. The Philips RF5
stereogram was typical of this new breed of
entertainment systems.
I
T WASN’T UNTIL towards the end
of the valve era that manufacturers finally introduced stereo audio
equipment. This resulted in the development of the stereogram, which
typically comprised an AM radio
receiver, a stereo turntable and stereo
power amplifier stages, all built into
a stylish wooden cabinet.
The Philips RF5 is typical of many
stereo radiograms of the 1960s. As with
other units, it featured an AM radio
section with a standard converter stage
and one stage of IF (intermediate fre-
quency) amplification and detection.
From there, the audio signal is split
two ways and fed to identical power
amplifier stages which in turn drive
the left and right speakers to give
the “stereo” effect. Of course, when
radio signals are selected, the effect is
actually 2-channel mono rather than
true stereo. True stereo signals could
only be derived by playing 33 RPM
stereo microgroove records on the
turntable.
In most cases, the speakers were
located at opposite ends of the cabi-
net and so were quite close together.
However, some units used a “normal”
mono radiogram cabinet and put the
second speaker system into a satellite
speaker box. This meant that the second speaker could be moved further
away for better stereo effect.
Stereo LPs sparked tremendous
interest when they were introduced.
In fact, older readers will remember
the demonstration records that were
used to sell the stereo effect. Some
even had a recording of a steam train,
complete with whistle, thundering
through the lounge-room from one
side to the other. Another common
demonstration effect was a recording
of a game of table tennis, in which you
could hear the ball being hit first in one
speaker then in the other.
We thought that such demonstrations were marvellous at the time. Now
they seem old-fashioned and quaint
The Philips RF5 stereogram featured an AM radio and an
automatic turntable that could play 33, 45 & 78 RPM records.
92 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
in the face of modern 5.1 channel (or
more) home-theatre systems with surround sound.
Circuit details
Let’s now take a look at the circuit
for the Philips RF5 – see Fig.1. It used
five valves in total, with two in the
radio front-end – a 6AN7 converter
and a 6N8 IF amplifier/detector.
The stage based on the 6AN7 converts the received broadcast band signal to the IF (intermediate frequency)
which is at 455kHz. This stage is a little
unusual in that tuning is accomplished
using an inductance tuner instead
of the more usual variable capacitor
system.
The following 6N8 functions as a
combined IF amplifier, detector and
automatic gain control (AGC) system.
From there, the signal is fed to a 2-section pushbutton-type switch which
selects between “Radio” and “Gram”
(or gramophone). A third pushbutton switch provides power On/Off
selection.
In the “Radio” position, both audio
amplifiers have their inputs connected
in parallel. By contrast, in the “Gram”
position, the two amplifiers are connected to the respective left and right
channel outputs from the pick-up
cartridge. The amplifier stages are
each capable of about 3.5W (RMS)
output power.
The two audio amplifier stages are
identical and use two 6GW8 triode/
pentode valves – one for each channel. The volume control (R51 & R52)
is dual-ganged and each section has a
tapping which is connected to an RC
network. This modifies the tone of
the output according to the volume
setting.
Potentiometer R18 functions as the
balance control, while dual-ganged
potentiometer R30/R31 functions as
the tone control.
Note that each amplifier stage has an
unbypassed cathode resistor on pin 7
of the output valve. This gives a small
amount of negative feedback for that
stage, with additional feedback for the
whole amplifier taken from the speaker
transformer and applied via C25, R25
& R13 in the right channel and C26,
R24 & R14 in the left channel.
It’s fair to say that the audio amplifiers in the Philips RF5 stereogram are
a cut above the amplifiers used in the
mantel receivers of the era. Apart from
the two feedback loops, a decentlysiliconchip.com.au
This view shows the Garrard record changer and its instruction manual. Not
many manuals survive this long. The inbuilt microphone can be seen at the
bottom left of the photograph.
sized audio output transformer is used
in each channel and the speakers are
reasonably well baffled.
If you have one of these units and
a speaker or output transformer develops a fault, you may have trouble
getting a replacement. The reason
for this is that the speakers are highimpedance 800W types, rather than the
more popular 15W units.
Power supply
The power supply is quite conventional and uses a 6V4 rectifier to provide a HT rail of around 255V DC. The
filtering is better than normal, with a
3-stage filter made up of C20 (24mF),
C21 (50mF) and C22 (50mF).
Karaoke ain’t new
The stereogram has another couple
of features that a few manufacturers,
particularly Kriesler, often incorporated. Karaoke is not just a recent
phenomena, as this receiver also had a
built-in microphone so that you could
sing along with your records.
When operated, the microphone
switch places the unit into the mono
mode and a preset volume control
adjusts the volume to prevent amplifier feedback.
In addition, the set has a socket so
that a stereo reel-to-reel tape recorder
could be connected into the audio
line before the volume controls. This
means that tape recordings could be
made from either the record player or
the radio, depending on which of these
two sources was selected.
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January 2007 93
upwards or indicates an open circuit
when the lead is flexed.
That done, the set was connected
to power and turned on. The dial
lights and the valve heaters worked
but nothing else. A quick check with
a multimeter revealed HT voltage on
capacitor C22 but there was nothing on
C21. It wasn’t hard to find the reason
– series resistor R23 was completely
open circuit.
A replacement resistor was quickly
fitted and that fixed the problem – HT
voltage now came up across C21 and
the set burst into life. It sounded good
too and the overall sensitivity of the
receiver was quite reasonable.
Cleaning the valves
This radio chassis, shown here before restoration, is accessed by removing the
top wooden cover from the cabinet before restoration. Note that the terminal
block at bottom right catered for the 240VAC leads to the record changer, as
well as the antenna and speaker leads. This means that care must be taken to
rewire it correctly if any leads are removed during servicing.
These two features were cheap to
provide but just how often such facilities were used is debatable. In practice,
they were probably rarely used, just
like the shortwave section of most
dual-wave radio receivers.
Getting it going
As shown in the lead photo, this
particular unit’s cabinet is in quite
good order. However, the electronic
circuitry wasn’t working (the set was
as dead as a dodo) and the record
changer had a few mechanical problems. In fact, the record changer would
not go through any of its automatic
routines and stayed running until it
was manually switched off.
I began by giving the chassis and all
other parts a good clean with a brush,
to remove the dust. That done, I then
had to work out how to get at the electronic circuitry. Initially, I tried to get
the chassis out through the back of the
cabinet but this proved unsuccessful.
I could get at a few plugs, sockets and
leads but not at the chassis itself, as it
was mounted on top of a shelf.
After looking around the set, I eventually spotted a screw which went
from the record changer section and
into the side of the section housing the
circuitry. I removed it and found that
I could then lift the top timber panel
94 Silicon Chip
up and unhook it from two lugs on the
inside of the side panel.
This showed that the circuitry is
mounted on two brackets rather than
on a conventional chassis. The RF
section can be removed but this also
means that the dial drive assembly has
to be dismantled. As a result, I decided
to leave it in place and work on it using a small-tipped soldering iron. The
audio amplifier and power supply are
similarly difficult to work on but again
I decided to leave it in place.
A general check with my highvoltage tester did not reveal any
excessive leakage or shorts anywhere
that would stop me from trying to run
the set. Once it was going properly, I
could then replace any leaky capacitors in critical places. That said, this
set has quite a sprinkling of polyester
capacitors and these rarely show signs
of leakage resistance.
The set has a 3-core power lead and
it’s always a good idea to first check
that the earth wire in particular is
not broken. That’s done simply by
connecting a multimeter (set to a low
ohms range) between the set’s chassis
and the earth pin of the 3-pin plug. If
all appears OK, try flexing the lead,
particularly around the plug which is
where breaks often occur. Replace the
lead if the multimeter reading “flicks”
Now that the set was working, I
switched it off, removed all the valves
and washed them in soapy water.
This has to be done carefully, so that
you don’t rub the type numbers off
the valves. They were then rinsed in
clean water and allowed to dry standing upright.
Next, the valve sockets were sprayed
with Inox (a cleaning lubricant), as
were the variable controls and the
switches. The dial mechanism was
then oiled with light machine oil, after
which the valves were replaced and
the set put through its paces. All appeared well, so the set was left running
to make sure no intermittent faults
were lurking in the works.
This set uses polyester capacitors
in most critical areas but not for the
AGC bypass capacitor (C10). Instead,
this was a paper capacitor and it tested
leaky (5MW), which meant that it had
to be replaced. This involves undoing
three screws on the underside of the
RF sub-assembly and then tilting the
assembly sufficiently to gain access
to the capacitor’s leads. However, this
must be done carefully, as the dial
assembly is also attached to this subassembly. A 50V ceramic capacitor
was installed in place of the original
unit.
Record changer
The record changer used in the
Philips RF5 is a Garrard Autoslim unit.
As mentioned above, it would not go
through any of its automatic operations and the reason for this was quite
simple. Over time, much of the oil
and grease that’s used to lubricate the
mechanical parts had either congealed
into sticky “globs” impregnated with
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is conventional and uses five valves in total – two in the radio front-end (a 6AN7 converter
and a 6N8 IF amplifier/detector), two 6GW8 triode/pentodes for the audio amplifier stages & a 6V4 rectifier.
dust or had disappeared altogether,
leaving a lot of moving parts without
lubrication.
In order to clean away the old lubrication, the mechanism must first be
removed from the cabinet and placed
on a servicing jig so that its operation
can be observed. Fortunately, it’s not
difficult to get the changer out.
First, you unplug the audio leads
and disconnect the mains power lead
from a terminal block at the rear of the
receiver chassis plate. That done, the
toggles that keep the changer in the
cabinet are twisted so that they lay
along the axis of the screw through the
changer baseplate. The changer can
then be lifted straight out of the cabinet
and placed onto the servicing jig.
Having done this, I removed the
platter and turntable. The latter is
released by first sliding off the retaining circlip, then twisting the turntable
gently clockwise while lifting it upwards until it clears the centre post.
There is virtually nothing that can go
wrong with this and it was simply
cleaned and the phosphor bronze
bearings oiled.
Next, I removed the motor from its
resilient mounts by removing the three
circlips holding it in place. The motor
freely rotated, so there was no problem
here. However, the felt wicks which
hold oil for the phosphor bronze motor bearings were dry so I filled them
with oil using a syringe-type “oiler”.
The motor was then reinstalled.
That done, a drop of oil was applied
to the top of the phosphor bronze bearing on the idler (jockey) wheel. This
is the large rubber wheel on the left
of the photograph on the following
page. Its purpose is to make contact
with the inside rim of the turntable, to
drive the turntable at the appropriate
speed. In operation, the speed control
varies its position vertically against a
stepped-diameter pulley attached to
the motor, depending on the speed of
the record to be played (ie, the speed
of the turntable depends on the pulleydiameter selected by the idler wheel).
Next, a large gear on one side of the
mechanism was removed, again by
removing its circlip (this is the gear on
the righthand side of the photograph of
the turntable’s “works”). In this case,
the grease on the cam on the underside
of the gear had congealed and one of
the small ancillary levers had seized
due to lack of oil. I soaked this gear
assembly in household kerosene, then
cleaned the muck off and removed the
small lever from its shaft by removing
two more circlips. I then cleaned and
oiled the shaft and replaced the lever,
which now operated freely.
Finally, I greased and oiled the
remaining cams as appropriate and
reassembled the unit. The turntable
and platter were the last parts to go
on. The turntable is installed by carefully lowering it over the centre post/
shaft while rotating it clockwise, until
it settles into position. It’s important
to only rotate it clockwise, otherwise
damage can be done to the idler wheel.
Final adjustments
Once the turntable was back in
January 2007 95
The Garrard record changer is shown here mounted on a simple servicing jig,
with its turntable platter removed to give access to part of the mechanism. The
servicing jig is nothing more than a drilled wooden base which accepts wooden
dowels to support the turntable’s base.
This underneath view of the pickup
arm shows the locations of the stylus
weight adjustment and the stylus
drop position adjustment. A turnover
cartridge is used so that both 33/45
RPM records & 78 RPM records can
be played.
place, I gave it a quick checkout on
the test jig, to ensure everything was
working properly. First, I adjusted the
tracking weight of the stylus (this is
done by adjusting a spring under the
tonearm), then checked that it tracked
a record correctly without skating.
That done, the operation of the
changer was observed in automatic
mode. In particular, I checked that the
stylus dropped down onto the record
in the correct position; ie, in the middle of the run in track (if it doesn’t,
this can be corrected by adjusting a
horizontal screw near the tonearm
pivot). I also checked that the tonearm
lifted off correctly when it reached the
run out at the end of the record and
returned to its stand.
By the way, most automatic record
changers are designed to play up to six
records in a stack. As a result, there is
a cam adjustment under the turntable
which sets the height to which the
tonearm rises to ensure it will clear
a complete stack on the platter. This
rarely gets out of adjustment, so I
didn’t bother to check it.
Finally, I decided to replace the
two styli for the turnover cartridge.
Microgroove records require a 1 mil
(.001-inch) radius stylus, while 78s
require a 2.5 mil stylus. Unfortunately,
I’m having trouble tracking down the
78 RPM stylus, so I’ve simply replaced
the microgroove (33/45 RPM) stylus
for the time being.
Summary
The Philips RF5 stereo radiogram is
typical of the era. It delivers reasonable
quality from the audio section and the
RF section has good sensitivity if used
SC
with a fairly short antenna.
Photo Gallery: Eclipse Monarch AN (1946)
MANUFACTURED BY Eclipse Radio, Melbourne in 1946, the Monarch AN is a 5-valve
superhet and is similar to the companion
Astor model that uses the same chassis.
It was housed in a stylish bakelite cabinet
with a large circular dial towards the right
and the three control knobs spaced along
the bottom.
The valve line-up was as follows: 6A8-G
frequency changer; 6U7-G IF amplifier; 6B6G, audio amplifier/detector/ AVC rectifier;
6V6-G audio output; and 80 rectifier.
Photo: Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
96 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Pic-Toc clock
questions
I would like to build your PicToc
clock, as described in the July 2001
issue. When comparing the schematic with the PC board layout, a few
things are not clear to me. Why are
4-pin pushbutton switches on the PC
board, while the schematic only shows
2-pin switches? Are 2-pin switches
sufficient?
I cannot follow the circuit logic:
which pins on the switches should be
closed when the switch is in neutral
position (if any)? Pin 17 of the PIC
is connected to pin 8 of DISP4 but
not with pin 3 of this same DISP4,
as it is shown on schematic. I don’t
understand where the common pins
of all four switches on the PC board
are connected? (V. B., Rijeka, Croatia).
• The pushbutton switches are single-pole momentary contact types. The
four pins on the switches are necessary
in this project because the top set are
internally connected and so are the
bottom set of pins. The interconnections then make links for the PC board
connections so that they can straddle
tracks. When the switch is pressed it
makes contact between the top and
bottom contacts.
The displays have two common pins
(3 & 8). Only one needs to be connected
as they are internally wired together
in the display. DISP4 shows pins 3 & 8
connected because they must be connected on the PC board as the internal
connection between pins 3 & 8 is used
as a link.
FM receiver wanted
for transmitter kit
I was wondering if you could tell me
of any suitable receivers for the Oatley
K222 FM stereo transmitter kit. I plan
to use it for a wireless microphone but
I need a receiver that will have a line
level output so I can plug headphones
into it to monitor the sound and a
microphone level output to plug into
the video camera.
I wouldn’t know how to modify an
FM radio to have both levels of output
so if you have any suggestions they
would be much appreciated. I figured
tapping into the signal before it’s
amplified would do for the mic level,
with the line level as per normal, but
I wouldn’t know where the preamp
signal would be. (D. W., via email).
• Virtually any FM/AM radio with
headphone outputs can be made to do
the job. You would just need a voltage
divider across each headphone output
channel to derive the microphone signal. Each channel would require two
resistors in the voltage divider, say 1kW
and 22W to deck (0V). The microphone
signal would be taken across the 22W
resistors in each channel.
Zapper needs a crook
battery for testing
I bought the Battery Zapper Mk.II
kit as featured in the May 2006 issue
and have put it together. I do not have
a bad or dead battery, so to test it I connected it to my good car battery. All the
LED indicators function as detailed in
your test section, however the output
voltage sits at around 13V. According
to your test section, the output voltage should be around 30V and reduce
slowly as the battery “recovers”.
Am I getting a reading of 13V because the battery I have connected the
Zapper to is good? I can hear a lowlevel buzzing noise which I assume
is the sound created by the inductors
No Support For ATtiny13 Or ATtiny2313
I recently built the AVR ISP serial programmer from the October
2002 issue of SILICON CHIP and I was
curious to why it doesn’t support
more devices like the ATtiny13
or ATtiny2313. Is there a way to
program these other devices? (T.
H., via email).
• The ATtiny13 and ATtiny2313
were released well after the original
AVR ISP project which is based on
Atmel’s application note AVR910.
Several hobbyists have updated
the AVR ISP firmware to support
faster programming and some
newer devices. You might like to
try the V3.8b firmware update from
this site: www.mikrocontrollersiliconchip.com.au
projekte.de (this is a German site,
so use one of the on-line web page
translators to access it). Note that
to use this particular firmware update, you must adjust the crystal
frequency and MOSI/MISO pin assignments to suit the programmer
hardware.
Unfortunately, Atmel no longer
officially supports the AVR ISP.
This means that they’re not updating AVRprog to support newer devices. The latest version available is
V1.40, as supplied with AVR Studio
V4.11. This version should allow
you to program the ATtiny13, once
you’ve updated the firmware in the
AVR ISP as described above.
Unfortunately, AVRprog V1.40
lacks support for the ATtiny2313.
We’ve heard that the older V1.37 (as
supplied with AVR Studio V3.56)
does support the ATtiny2313, although we haven’t tried it. Alternatively, if you don’t mind using
a command-line interface, try
AVRDude v5.1 or later from http://
download.savannah.gnu.org/releases/avrdude
Another option would be to
purchase a genuine AVR-ISP MKII
programmer, which supports all
in-system programmable devices.
You can get one of these from JED
Microprocessors at www.jedmicro.
com.au/avr.htm
January 2007 97
Bridging Studio 350 Amplifier Modules
I want to build an amplifier system into my JBL JRX 115 speaker,
which has an 8W impedance and is
rated at 250W RMS.
I note that your Studio 350 develops only 200W into 8W. Can I use
two amplifiers in bridge mode to
get more power? (B. L., via email).
• Building such an amplifier
system would be a major undertaking and would require significant
audio-related electronics experience but yes, it is possible. As a bare
minimum, you’d need a set-up like
that shown in the accompanying
block diagram.
As shown, a preamplifier boosts
signal level ahead of a bridge
adapter, which drives a pair of
and implies that the unit is working.
(S. P., via email).
• Your relatively low voltage reading
is probably due to the battery being
“too good”, with virtually no sulphating and hence a very low impedance
for the zapping pulses. The low-level
buzzing sound is a good sign and indicates that the zapping is probably
working correctly, as you suggest.
No error
in circuit
I noted an error in the Suppressed
Zero Meter circuit on page 7 of the
November 2006 issue. The +Vin is
connected to the 7905’s GND pin and
98 Silicon Chip
amplifiers via its complementary
signal outputs.
Power for the preamplifier can
be conveniently picked off from
the bridge adapter’s ±16V supply,
which is generated by on-board
zener regulators fed from the amplifier’s DC power rails.
With the speaker “bridged” between the two amplifier outputs,
you can expect about twice the
rated 4-ohm output power, so for
the Studio 350, this amounts to
about 700W RMS. Note that as
each amplifier “sees” only half the
loudspeaker impedance, you can
only use an 8-ohm speaker in this
configuration.
Getting rid of the heat will be a
its input is connected to 0V. Could
you please confirm this as I would
like to build this one and not blow up
anything? (R. N., via email).
• The circuit is correct. The 7905 is
a negative 5V regulator and therefore
its input and output terminals must
be negative with respect to its GND
terminal.
Questions on the
Mighty Midget
I was looking at the Mighty Midget
70W amplifier (SILICON CHIP, March
2002) and was thinking of building
two for a stereo set-up. I am thinking of
running both off a toroidal transformer
challenge for a powered speaker application. We expect that the amplifier enclosure would need to be built
on to the speaker, rather inside it.
It’s also a very good idea to include
speaker protection (not shown) for
any high-powered amplifier. Without protection, amplifier failure can
easily destroy an expensive speaker
in seconds.
All modules are still available
as kits. Check out Altronics for the
preamp (K-5512), bridge adapter (K5565) and amplifier (K-5815). Jaycar
also stock the preamp (KC-5159)
and amplifier (KC-5372).
with a suitable rectifier and filtering
capacitors.
How much current does the amplifier draw and what is the maximum
voltage? The toroidal is a 12-0-12V
160VA unit capable of 13.33A when
the secondaries are wired in parallel.
Can you suggest capacitors for filtering
the power output?
Also, if both of the amplifier chips
are installed on the same heatsink, do
they have to be insulated from each
other? (N. K., via email).
• The TDA1562Q can accept a supply of up to 18V DC (maximum). The
capacitors on the PC board should be
rated at 25V if you give it more than
16V DC.
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The 12VAC transformer may deliver
more than 18VDC (after rectification
and filtering) when unloaded. Make
sure that this is not the case even
with a high mains voltage. Ideally, the
transformer should be rated at 10V AC
rather than 12V AC.
The supply filter capacitors should
be rated for a ripple current of at least
8A. Typically 4000mF 63V canister
type electrolytics have a ripple rating
of about 4A, so two or three of these
would be suitable. Alternatively, use
three or four 4700mF 25V PC-mount
electrolytics. Use a 35A bridge rectifier.
The TDA1562Q amplifier package
is isolated from its pins and so you do
not need to insulate between them or
the heatsink.
Re-using a notebook
LCD as a monitor
I am enquiring about the possibility
of utilising an old notebook’s LCD as a
standalone monitor, say for a desktop
computer, with a VGA input or even
better, with an RCA plug input.
My actual use is for my multimedia
siliconchip.com.au
player monitor so I can build an MP3
jukebox without having to use a notebook. (A. M., via email).
• Many recent notebooks include an
external video input but we cannot see
how it would be economically viable
to add a video input to those that don’t.
LCD panels often employ custom-designed, low-voltage digital interfaces
(ie, they are not analog compatible).
This means that you’d need an LCD
controller (with VGA input) capable of
driving your particular model of LCD
panel. Such devices are available but
will probably cost more than the price
of a cheap LCD monitor.
Noisy reception on
AM car radio
My car radio gives me clear reception on FM but gives me noisy static
with AM. Is there a way I can clear this
noise or reduce it? (F. S., via email).
• This is not a topic we have dealt
with in a magazine article but there
are a number of questions you need
to resolve. First, if you are plagued
with ignition noise and alternator
whine while the engine is running,
it suggests that you need suppression
components installed to eliminate
this problem. AM radios are usually
more sensitive to this problem than
FM radios. A car radio installer can
fix this.
Second, if there is no engine noise
but the sensitivity is poor, perhaps the
antenna peaking capacitor for the radio
has not been adjusted for optimum
reception.
Finally, it must be said that most AM
radio sections in today’s car systems
are pretty poor and nowhere near as
good as they were when the radios
were designed and manufactured in
Australia.
Priority switching
for two amplifiers
I was wondering if there was a
circuit that exists (or could be modified) to allow a pair of speakers to be
connected to two amplifiers with one
having an “override” on the signal.
For example, the speakers would receive the signal from amplifier 2 but
as soon as a signal was detected from
amplifier 1, then 2 would be cut off
January 2007 99
VCRs For Security Systems
The article by Murray Downes on
page 46 of the September 2006 issue initially looked like the answer
to my prayers, as I want to use a
video recorder on my home and at
my weekender to record each time
the system at either property was
triggered. Unfortunately, though,
this article didn’t solve the problem
in my case.
The problem is using a video
recorder as a security recorder. I’ve
tried several methods of starting and
stopping both Beta and VHS recorders, mainly using relays. However, I
find that loading and unloading the
tape each time the unit is activated
is a waste of time and a potential
cause of mechanical failure, even
if the unit is left turned on permanently (waste of power also).
I’m now sorry I gave away my
and you would hear only what was
broadcast on 1.
I know various PAs do this at an
input level but I’ve never seen it done
at the output end. (P. I., Carlton North,
Vic).
• You could achieve this “priority”
function quite easily by modifying
the VOX circuit we featured in the
September 1994 issue. This monitored
the signal from an electret microphone
and it closed a relay whenever a signal
above a certain threshold was received
by the microphone.
You could adapt it by substituting a
10kW resistor for the microphone and
couple the signal from your ampli-
original piano key Sanyo Beta
machine, as it may have filled
the role.
Scots-byterians like me can’t see
why security recorders or cards for
computers should be so expensive.
I’m sure an article describing how
to disarm the loading/unloading
procedure so that VCRs can be
used for this purpose would be of
value to a lot of readers (or am I out
of step?). I have a number of Beta
(mainly Sony) and VHS recorders
that I would like to fire up to record
when the surveillance cameras fire
up. (J. P., Epping, NSW).
• We do not see how you can hook
up a VCR in any security system
without using relays in the way
you describe – that will naturally
involve loading and unloading the
tape each time an event is to be re-
fier via a 1kW resistor into the 0.1mF
capacitor feeding diodes D1 & D2.
Make sure you disconnect the 0.1mF
capacitor from pin 1 of IC1a.
You will need a DPDT relay to do
the switching from one amplifier to
the other.
Using the slave trigger
with two flash units
I have successfully built the Slave
Flash Trigger featured in the July 2003
issue.
Is there a simple way in which it
can be made to trigger two electronic
flashes at the same time? I was think-
corded. The only way to avoid that
would be to modify the recorder
so that the tape is always loaded
(around the drum) but then you
would presumably need a special
tape-unloading procedure so that
the cassette could be ejected from
the machine when you want to do
that.
Such a modification could be
very tricky since the whole tape
loading/unloading procedure is
normally under microprocessor
control.
Even if such a modification was
successful, the VCR would still
need to be permanently powered,
otherwise short “events” might be
missed. Hard disc video recorders get around this problem but
they also need to be permanently
powered.
ing of connecting two identical flash
units to it by combining their trigger
cables into one with a simple adaptor,
or possibly incorporating a diode into
each flash lead to stop them interfering electrically with each other. (E. J.,
via email).
• You might be able to trigger two
flash units with the Slave Flash Trigger
using an isolating diode in each flash
lead, as you suggest.
If this doesn’t work reliably, try fitting a second C106D SCR and diode
bridge, to drive the second flash. The
gate of the second SCR can be connected to the emitter of Q2, in parallel
SC
with the existing SCR’s gate.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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To book your classified ad, email the text to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and
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Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
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Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon,
SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Tannoy, Goodmans, Wharfedale, radio and wireless. Collector/
siliconchip.com.au
Altronics.................................. 72-75
Amateur Scientist CDs............. OBC
Alternative Technology Assoc. ....... 7
Av-Comm................................... 102
BitScope Designs......................... 27
Dontronics.................................. 102
Low Power Wireless Connectivity Specialists
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
555 Electronics............................. 47
Dick Smith Electronics............ 16-21
RFMA RF Modules Australia
CLEARING ALL STOCKS of throughhole ICs for free. You pay $2.00 for
post & pack. Limit 10 per customer. Go
to www.lazar.com.au
Advertising Index
Parallax Basic Stamps
The awesome simultasking 8-core Propeller Chip.
Lots of sensors and Development kits + Robots.
Ultrasonics, PIR accelerometer.
Serial LCD display, serial keypads.
Stepper Motor Controllers & Motors
Micro stepping up to 25,600
fully protected industrial
grade controllers at incredible
prices.
PCB mount units with full 32
bit indexer capability.
DIN rail mount controller for factory applications.
See our website for details and PDF file.
Call or email us for application assistance.
ron<at>nollet.com.au
R T Nollet: Ph (03) 9338 3306; fax (03) 9338
4596; mobile 0407 804 712.
www.nollet.com.au
Hobbyist will pay cash. (07) 5471 1062.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
Ecowatch.................................... 102
Elan Audio.................................... 91
Evatco.......................................... 93
FreeNet Antennas...................... 101
Grantronics................................. 102
Harbuch Electronics..................... 90
Instant PCBs.............................. 102
Jaycar ....................... IFC,49-56,103
JED Microprocessors..................... 5
Little Devil Antennas.................. 101
LN Marketing................................ 85
Microgram...................................... 3
MicroZed Computers.................... 89
Ocean Controls.......................... 101
Oatley Electronics........................ 83
Quest Electronics....................... 102
RCS Radio................................. 103
RF Modules........................... 99,103
RS Components............................. 6
RTN............................................ 103
Sesame Electronics.................. 103
SC – Radio & Hobbies DVD......... 15
Silicon Chip Binders................ 10,86
Silicon Chip Bookshop........ 104,IBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 57
Speakerbits................................ 102
Taig Machinery........................... 102
Trusys............................................. 7
WES Components........................ 45
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP designs can be obtained from
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
January 2007 103
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
|