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By JIM ROWE
A low-cost, easy-to-build
Planet Jupiter Receiver
How would you like to try some basic radio astronomy – listening
to the bursts of noise originating from the planet Jupiter, or from
the Sun? You don’t need a lot of fancy equipment to do this,
just the simple shortwave receiver described here. It’s hooked
up to a basic dipole antenna (which we describe as well) and
to the sound card in your PC, so that you can print out “chart
recordings” of the noise signals.
M
ENTION THE TERM “radio astronomy” to most people, and
they’ll either look completely blank
or visualise huge arrays of steerable
dish antennas – like the one at Narrabri in NSW. Of course, a lot of radio
astronomy is done nowadays using
these big arrays or huge ‘valley sized’
32 Silicon Chip
antennas like the one at Aricebo in
Puerto Rico. But it’s still possible to do
interesting observations using much
simpler antennas and equipment, at
“decametric” frequencies (8-30MHz)
in the HF radio band.
In fact, a NASA-sponsored project
called “Radio Jove” has been promot-
ing this type of radio astronomy for the
last 10 years as a science project for
high-school students and interested
hobbyists. Over 1000 simple receiver
kits have been sold, for 20.1MHz reception of noise bursts from the planet
Jupiter, the Sun and other objects in
the Milky Way galaxy.
siliconchip.com.au
There’s only one problem with the
US-designed Radio Jove receiver as far
as Australian students and hobbyists
have been concerned: the receiver kits
cost US$155 each plus shipping from
the USA, so it will set you back about
A$200 to have one sent over here. This
has discouraged more than a handful
of people in Australia from getting into
radio astronomy.
To encourage more Australian
students and hobbyists to have a go,
SILICON CHIP has developed its own
low-cost receiver project. And that’s
the background to the new receiver
described in this article. You’ll find
its basic specifications summarised
in the “Main Features” panel but the
bottom line is that it’s quite suitable
for basic radio astronomy at decametric frequencies around 21MHz. This
makes it fine for receiving noise bursts
from Jupiter, the Sun or other sources
in the Milky Way.
We estimate that it will cost you
around $75 for the basic receiver
module, plus $7.30 if you decide to
house it in an ABS instrument box. In
other words, less than half the cost of
the Radio Jove receiver. We also think
it is a much better design, by the way.
How it works
The complete circuit for the receiver
is shown in Fig.1. The heart of the
circuit is IC1, an SA605D single-chip
receiver IC which includes a local
oscillator, an RF mixer, a high-gain
IF amplifier and an IF limiting amplifier, plus a quadrature detector for FM
signal demodulation.
We are not using the last of these
sections here, because we’re using the
SA605 in a slightly unusual way – for
AM signal demodulation. We do this
by taking advantage of the chip’s RSSI
(received signal strength indicator)
output from pin 7.
This works because associated with
the high-gain IF amplifier and limiter
stages inside the SA605 are a number
of signal level detectors, whose outputs are combined to provide a DC output current from pin 7. This DC output
current is logarithmically proportional
to the incoming signal strength, so it
is essentially an AM detector output.
We convert it into a voltage signal by
passing the current through a 91kW
load resistor, shunted by a 470pF capacitor for low-pass filtering.
The centre intermediate frequency
(IF) of the receiver is set at 5.5MHz
siliconchip.com.au
The parts for the Jupiter Receiver are all mounted on a double-sided PC
board. The top groundplane pattern is necessary to ensure stability.
using ceramic filters CF1 and CF2.
These require no alignment. The local
oscillator circuit inside IC1 is brought
out to pins 3 & 4, to which we connect
frequency determining components
L3 and VC3, together with 22pF
and 39pF capacitors. Together, these
components allow the local oscillator
to be tuned manually over the range
from 25.75-28.0MHz, which is 5.5MHz
above the input signal range of interest
(20.25-22.5MHz).
The use of a 5.5MHz IF means that
the receiver’s image frequency will be
11MHz above the wanted frequency
– giving a good image rejection ratio.
The input of IC1’s mixer stage is
tuned to the centre of the wanted
frequency band (ie, about 21MHz) by
means of inductor L2 and trimmer
Main Features
The receiver is a single-conversion superhet design tuning from about 20.2522.5MHz, with a sensitivity of approximately 1mV for a 10dB signal-to-noise
ratio. Only three controls are provided: RF gain, tuning and audio gain.
All components are mounted directly on a small PC board measuring only
117 x 102mm, which can either be used “naked” or housed in a standard
low-profile ABS instrument case (140 x 110 x 35mm).
The receiver can be powered from either a 12V battery or a mains plugpack
supply delivering between 15-18V DC. The current drain is typically between
55-75mA.
There are two audio outputs from the receiver: (1) a line output suitable for
connection to the line-level input of a PC sound card and (2) a low-impedance
output capable of driving external headphones or a small 8W speaker. Both
outputs can be used at the same time.
August 2008 33
Parts List
1 PC board, code 06108081, 117
x 102mm (double sided, with
plated-through holes)
1 plastic case, 140 x 110 x 35mm
(optional)
2 Murata 5.5MHz ceramic filters
(CF1, CF2)
3 mini RF coil formers (Jaycar LF1227) for L1-L3
1 300m length of 0.25mm
enamelled copper wire
1 47mH RF choke (RFC1)
1 68mH RF choke (RFC2)
2 trimmer capacitors, 6.3-30pF
(green) (VC1, VC2)
1 miniature tuning capacitor with
edgewise knob (VC3) (Jaycar
RV-5728)
1 50kW 16mm PC-mount linear
pot (VR1)
1 50kW PC-mount 16mm log pot
(VR2)
2 16mm-diameter control knobs
1 8-pin DIL socket (for IC2)
2 PC-mount RCA sockets (CON1,
CON2)
1 PC-mount 3.5mm stereo jack
(CON3)
1 PC-mount 2.5mm concentric
DC socket (CON4)
1 TO-220/6093B heatsink
4 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
5 M3 x 6mm machine screws
5 M3 nuts (two used as spacers
for VC1)
2 M2.5 x 5mm machine screws
(for VC1)
1 15 x 7mm copper sheet or
tinplate (for IC1 shield)
1 14 x 10mm copper sheet or
tinplate (for Q1 shield)
1 3.5mm mono jack plug to
3.5mm mono jack plug audio
cable
Semiconductors
1 SA605D single-chip receiver IC
(IC1)
capacitor VC2. The ‘Q’ of this circuit
is fairly low, so that the receiver’s sensitivity is reasonably constant over the
2MHz wide tuning band. As a result
tuning is achieved purely by adjusting
the local oscillator frequency.
Although the SA605 IC does provide
a great deal of gain in the IF amplifier
and limiter sections, we have included
34 Silicon Chip
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 LM386 audio amplifier (IC3)
1 7812 +12V 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 78L05 +5V 3-terminal regulator
(REG2)
1 BF998 dual-gate Mosfet (Q1)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 16V 1W zener diode (optional)
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470mF 25V RB electrolytic
1 330mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 22mF 16V tag tantalum
4 10mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470nF MKT metallised polyester
8 100nF monolithic ceramic
1 47nF MKT metallised polyester
6 10nF monolithic ceramic
7 2.2nF disc ceramic
1 470pF disc ceramic
2 39pF NPO disc ceramic
1 22pF NPO disc ceramic
2 18pF NPO disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 220kW
2 1.5kW
1 150kW
5 1kW
1 110kW
1 820W
1 100kW
1 360W
1 91kW
1 300W
2 47kW
1 220W
1 22kW
1 100W
1 10kW
1 47W
1 2.2kW
2 10W
1 1.8kW
Antenna Parts
1 UB5 plastic box, 83 x 54 x
31mm
1 35 x 21 x 13mm ferrite toroid
(Jaycar LO-1238)
50-ohm coaxial cable plus RCA
plug for downlead
an RF amplifier stage ahead of the IC to
ensure that the receiver has adequate
sensitivity. As you can see, this RF
stage uses a BF998 dual-gate MOSFET
(Q1), with the second gate (G2) voltage
adjusted via VR1 to allow easy control
of RF gain.
The RF input signal from the antenna enters the receiver via CON1,
and is fed into the input tuned circuit
(L1/VC1) via an impedance matching
tap on inductor L1. As before, the ‘Q’
of this circuit is kept relatively low, so
once it’s tuned to about 21MHz it does
not need to be changed.
From the RSSI output of IC1,
the demodulated audio signals are
passed through op amp IC2a (half of
an LM358) which is connected as a
voltage follower for buffering. They
then pass through a simple low-pass
RC filter (the 1kW resistor and 10nF
capacitor) before being fed to IC2b.
This is the other half of the LM358
and is configured as an audio amplifier with a gain of 5.7 times, as set by
the 47kW and 10kW feedback resistors.
From IC2b, the signals pass through
a 470nF coupling capacitor to VR2,
the volume/audio gain control. They
are then fed through IC3, an LM386N
audio amplifier configured here to
provide a gain of about 40 times. The
amplified audio signals are then coupled via a 330mF output capacitor to
speaker output jack CON3 and also
to line output socket CON2 via a 1kW
isolating resistor.
Notice that the buffered RSSI signal
from the output of IC2a is also fed to
transistor Q2, which is used to drive
LED2, the RSSI/overload indicator.
Because Q2 does not conduct until
the output voltage from IC2a reaches
a level of around +2.65V, this means
that LED1 really only lights when a
very strong signal is being received, ie,
when the receiver is tuned to a shortwave radio transmission or some other
strong terrestrial signal source. So the
main purpose of LED2 is to help you
tune AWAY from such signals, rather
than to them.
Power supply
The receiver’s power supply arrangements are very straightforward.
Most of the circuitry operates from
+12V, which can come directly from
a battery if you wish. In this case
regulator REG1 is not used but instead
replaced by a 10W resistor. The 2200mF
capacitor is also replaced by a 16V
1W zener diode, to protect the circuit
from damage in case of higher-voltage
transients (when the battery is being
charged, for example).
On the other hand, if you wish to
operate the receiver from a 15-18V
DC source such as a mains plugpack
supply (Americans call them ‘wall
warts’), this is very easy to do. In this
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
August 2008 35
S(1)
VC1
6-30pF
2.2nF
150k
D(2)
G1
G2
2x
2.2nF
A
K
470 F
25V
IN
GND
2200 F*
16V
OUT
REG1 7812
A
K
ZD1*
16V
1W
+12V
K
A
B
LED2
RSSI
100k
IN
GND
OUT
REG2 78L05
220
LED1
POWER
2.2k
K
A
E
C
39pF
39pF
91k
220k
10nF
100nF
100nF
8
47k
IC2b
10 F
10k
6
5
8
10
11
470pF
12
100nF
220k
7
RSSI
* ZD1 FITTED IN PLACE OF 2200 F
CAPACITOR WHEN REG1 IS NOT
USED (12V BATTERY OPERATION)
47
100nF
+6V
RFC2
68 H
1k
Vcc
6
+6V
IC1 SA605D
13
100nF
10nF
1k
14
LIM
IN
CF2
5.5MHz
820
17 16
15
IFA
OUT
22 F
TANT
300
5
MUTE
18
IFA
IN
100nF
100nF
19
10nF
1k
10nF
1k
RF
IN2 LCL OSC
B
E
4
3
10nF
2
20
1 RF MXR
IN1 OUT
10nF
L3
1.2 H
Q2
PN100
22pF
2.2nF
VC2
6-30pF
L2
1.8 H
10 F
21MHZ 'PLANET JUPITER' RECEIVER
–
+
D1
1N4004
FIT 10 RESISTOR
WHEN REG1 NOT USED
(12V BATTERY OPERATION)
+12V
TUNING
VC3
10-120pF
360
18pF
2.2nF
100
RFC1
47 H
1.5k
2
3
7
1
C
B
E
PN100
AUDIO
GAIN
VR2
50k
LOG
470nF
100nF
IC2: LM358
4
IC2a
1
6
1
10 F
16V
4
A
K
OUT
LEDS
GND
IN
7812
7
8
5
10 F
16V
1.5k
K
A
K
1N4004
A
ZD1
47nF
16V
10
330 F
1k
8
SPEAKER
OUT
CON3
AUDIO
OUT
TO PC
CON2
CERAMIC FILTERS CF1 AND CF2
ARE MURATA SFSRA5M50BF00-B0
OR SIMILAR
10
CHAMFER
SIDE
OUT
IC3
2 LM386N
3
+12V
NOTCH
20
SA605D
IN
COM
78L05
Fig.1: the circuit is based on an SA605D single-chip receiver IC (IC1) which includes a local oscillator, an RF mixer, a high-gain IF amplifier and an IF limiting
amplifier, plus a quadrature detector for FM signal demodulation. The latter feature is not used here. Instead, the SA605 is used in a slightly unusual way to
obtain AM signal demodulation.
SC
2008
15-18V (OR 12V)
DC INPUT
CON4
S
D
2.2nF
1.8k
Q1
BF998
47k
RF GAIN
2.2nF
110k
VR1
50k
LIN
22k
COIL DETAILS:
L1, L2 & L3 all on Jaycar LF-1227 3mm diameter
mini coil formers using 0.25mm enamelled copper
wire, close wound at bottom of former.
L1: 20 turns with tap at 4 turns from earth end
L2: 20 turns
L3: 15 turns
NOTE: Ferrite slugs and shield cans are NOT used.
18pF
L1
50 1.8 H
RF
INPUT
CON1
G1(4)
G2(3)
BF998
+12V
CF1
5.5MHz
ANTENNA
INPUT
CON4
CON1
LINE OUT
TO PC
SPEAKER
15-18V DC
OR 12V DC
CON2
S
T
R
IC1
SA605D
39pF
2.2nF
VR1
A
LED2
LED1
TUNING
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
36 Silicon Chip
Q2
PN100
VC3
22k
IEC Code
470n
100n
47n
10n
2n2
470p
39p
22p
18p
1k
10nF
RSSI
case, REG1 is fitted to regulate the
supply down to +12V, while a 2200mF
capacitor is also fitted to provide the
necessary filtering.
The only part of the receiver which
does not operate directly from the
+12V line is IC1, which needs a supply
of +6V. This is provided by REG2, a
low-power 5V regulator arranged here
to provide an output of +6V by means
of the 300W/47W resistive divider
across its output.
LED1 is connected to the +12V sup-
mF Code
0.47mF
0.1mF
.047mF
.01mF
.0022mF
NA
NA
NA
NA
470nF
1
1.2 H
RF GAIN
Value
470nF
100nF
47nF
10nF
2.2nF
470pF
39pF
22pF
18pF
10 F
220k
IC2
LM358
L3
50k LIN
1
47
470pF
100nF
10nF
22pF
2.2nF
39pF
6-30pF
1.5k
100nF
+
1
VC2
68 H
RFC2
5.5MHz
100nF 10nF
10nF
+
+
220
2.2k
18pF
CF2
2x100nF
10k
47k
220k
100k
10nF
L2
CF1
100nF
10nF
1k
1.8 H
100nF
C02008
8
02 C
06108081T
B18080160
100nF
820
1.5k
1k
5.5MHz
2.2nF
91k
2.2nF
300
78L05
100
22 F
D
S
10 F
REG2
1k
Q1
1.8k
2.2nF
BF998
47nF
+
10
2200 F
470 F
K
+
47 H
RFC1
G2
G1
D1
10 F
110k
150k
360
2.2nF
47k
1k
330 F
4004
6-30pF
2.2nF
VC1
18pF
A
CON3
A
10 F
Tap
L1
IC3
LM386
1.8 H
A
REG1
7812
EIA Code
474
104
473
103
222
470
39
22
18
POWER
VR2
50k LOG
AUDIO GAIN
ply via a 2.2kW series resistor to provide power indication, while diode D1
is in series with the DC input to protect
against reverse-polarity damage.
Construction
As you can see from the photos, all
of the receiver’s parts are mounted
on a small double-sided PC board
measuring 117 x 102mm and coded
06108081. The board has platedthrough holes incidentally, to ensure
good connections between the copper
on each side – especially in the area
of IC1, where a sound earth plane is
essential for stability.
All the input-output connectors are
mounted along the rear edge of the
board, while the controls and two indicator LEDs are mounted along the front
edge. Note that tuning capacitor VC3
(a standard “mini” tuning gang with
only one section used) is mounted
upside down on the top of the board,
with its edgewise tuning knob fitted
under the board.
Two 3mm nuts are used as standoffs
between the capacitor body and the
Fig.2: install the parts on the
PC board as shown on this
overlay diagram and the
accompanying photo. Make
sure that all polarised parts
are correctly orientated.
top of the board, to bring the knob up
closer to the board. This is important
if you want to fit the receiver into a
low profile instrument case, because
the knob will otherwise interfere with
the bottom of the case.
All the components mount on the
top of the board, including IC1 and Q1
which are both surface-mount devices
or “SMDs”.
Although you need to be especially careful when fitting IC1 and Q1,
building the receiver should be quite
straightforward if you work carefully
and use the board overlay diagram
(Fig.2) and the photos as a guide. Here
is the suggested order of assembly:
(1) Fit connectors CON1-CON4 along
the rear of the board.
(2) Fit all of the resistors, taking
care to fit the correct values in each
position.
(3) Fit the 8-pin socket for IC2, orientating it as shown to guide you in plugging in the IC later. Note that a socket
is not used for IC3, as the LM386N is
more stable when soldered directly
into the board.
siliconchip.com.au
What Is Radio Jove?
Radio Jove is a radio astronomy education project sponsored by NASA – the US
Government’s National Aeronautics and Space Administration. Other organisations
involved in the project are the University of Florida’s Department of Astrophysics,
the University of Hawaii, Kochi National College of Technology, the INSPIRE Project and companies such as Raytheon, RF Associates and Radio-Sky Publishing.
The goal of Radio Jove is to promote science education by observing and analysing radio signals emanating from the planet Jupiter, the Sun and our Milky Way
galaxy. The project is directed primarily at high-school science classes, both
in the USA and internationally, but interested hobbyists and radio amateurs are
welcome to participate.
The Radio Jove project has an office at NASA’s Goddard Space Flight Center and
also has its own website at http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/
On this site there are a wide range of resources and reference
materials, including observing guides and links to useful secondary sites.
Radio Jove also sells kits for a simple radio receiver suitable
for reception of “decametric” noise signals from Jupiter or the
Sun, around 20.1MHz (14.915m). The kits cost US$155.00
each plus shipping (from Greenbelt in Maryland). An assembly manual for the receiver can be downloaded from
the Radio Jove website, for those interested.
(4) Now fit IC1 and Q1 to the board,
taking the usual precautions with
these SMDs. Use an earthed soldering iron with a fine chisel-shaped tip
(very clean) and hold each device in
position with a wooden toothpick or
similar while you apply a tiny drop
of solder (tack solder) to the diagonal
end pins of the device, to hold it in
position while you solder all of the
remaining pins.
The idea is to make each joint quickly and carefully, using a bare minimum
of solder so you don’t accidentally
bridge between adjoining pins. Also
make sure you orientate Q1 correctly;
this 4-pin device is very tiny but its
source (S) pin is wider than the other
three. Orientate the device so that this
pin is at lower left, and tack-solder
this pin first if possible.
(5) Next fit trimmer capacitors VC1
and VC2, making sure their flat sides
face the centre of the board.
(6) After these, fit all the smaller fixed
capacitors. These are not polarised
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
2
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Value
220kW
150kW
110kW
100kW
91kW
47kW
22kW
10kW
2.2kW
1.8kW
1.5kW
1kW
820W
360W
300W
220W
100W
47W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
red red yellow brown
brown green yellow brown
brown brown yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
white brown orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
grey red brown brown
orange blue brown brown
orange black brown brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black orange brown
brown green black orange brown
brown brown black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
white brown black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
grey red black black brown
orange blue black black brown
orange black black black brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
August 2008 37
L1
16T
L2
20T
TAP
4T
L3
A
B
15T
A
B
A
B
1. BEFORE WINDING EACH COIL, REMOVE
ENAMEL FROM END OF WIRE (5mm).
THEN TIN AND WRAP IT AROUND
TOP OF ONE PIN (A) ON UNDERSIDE
OF FORMER. THEN SOLDER.
2. THEN WIND WIRE TIGHTLY AROUND
FORMER FROM BOTTOM, WITH
TURNS CLOSELY WOUND.
3. WITH L1, WIND 4 TURNS THEN
LOOP OUT AND TWIST AS
SHOWN TO MAKE 'TAP'. THEN
WIND REMAINING TURNS.
4. WHEN ALL TURNS HAVE BEEN
WOUND, CUT WIRE ABOUT 13mm
FROM END OF LAST TURN. THEN
REMOVE ENAMEL FROM LAST 5mm
OF WIRE, TIN AND BRING DOWN
TO WRAP AROUND TOP OF
SECOND PIN (B) ON UNDERSIDE
OF FORMER. THEN SOLDER.
5. REMOVE ENAMEL FROM OUTER
END OF L1'S TWISTED LOOP 'TAP',
THEN TIN SO IT CAN BE SOLDERED
TO PAD ON PC BOARD WHEN
COIL IS FITTED TO BOARD.
Fig.3: follow these instructions to
wind coils L1-L3.
15 x 7mm RECTANGLE
OF COPPER FOIL OR
TINPLATE ON
TOP OF IC1
WIRES SOLDERED
IN EARTH VIAS
NEAR PIN 1 END
OF IC1
1
SHIELDING PLATE FOR IC1
14 x 10mm RECTANGLE
OF COPPER FOIL OR
TINPLATE OVER CENTRE
LINE OF Q1
S
WIRES SOLDERED TO VIAS
IN Q1 SOURCE COPPER,
AT EACH END OF Q1
VERTICAL SHIELDING PLATE FOR Q1
Fig.4: here’s how to make and fit
the shield plates for IC1 and Q1.
apart from the 22mF tantalum capacitor
which fits between the 1kW and 91kW
resistors, just to the right of IC1. This
capacitor is polarised, so make sure
its positive lead is towards the front
of the board.
(7) Now fit the remaining electrolytic
capacitors, which are again all polarised. The correct orientation of each
electrolytic capacitor is shown clearly
in the overlay diagram.
38 Silicon Chip
These two photos show the shield
plates for IC1 (above) and transistor
Q1 (right). You can make the shield
plates from either copper or tinplate.
(8) Next fit RF chokes RFC1 and RFC2,
which should both be about 2mm
above the PC board.
(9) Now fit the two ceramic filters CF1
and CF2, which are not polarised.
(10) Follow these with transistor Q2,
diode D1, REG2 and LED1 & LED2.
Note that the green LED is used for
LED1 and the red LED for LED2.
LED1 is fitted first, with its leads bent
down by 90° about 8mm from the body.
It’s mounted with its body 6mm above
the board surface. LED2 is then fitted
with its leads bent down about 14mm
from the body and so that it sits about
14mm above the PC board.
(11) Fit REG1, if you are using it, noting
that it is mounted on a small 6093B
type heatsink. The regulator leads are
bent down at 90° 6mm away from the
device itself, so they can pass down
through the matching board holes.
Then the device and its heatsink are
fastened to the board using an M3 x
6mm screw and nut, after which the
leads are soldered to the pads under
the board.
(12) Fit IC3 directly on the board, orientating it carefully as shown in the
overlay diagram.
(13) Next, fit tuning capacitor VC3.
As noted earlier, this fits upside down
on the top of the board at centre front,
with M3 nuts used as standoffs. The
capacitor’s tuning knob must be removed from the spindle before it is
mounted and only refitted once the
capacitor’s leads have been soldered
under the board.
(14) Fit VR1 and VR2 (the RF and audio gain control pots). These first have
their spindles cut to 10mm long and
any burrs removed with a small file.
Then each pot is fitted to the board,
making sure that you fit the linear
(B50k) pot in the VR1 position, and
the log (A50k) pot in the VR2 position. Pass their pins carefully through
the board holes as far as they’ll go
comfortably (ie, without undue strain)
and then solder them to the pads underneath. Then you can fit the control
knobs to the pot spindles.
(15) Wind the three tuning coils L1L3. As you can see from the data box
in Fig.1, all three coils are wound on
3mm diameter mini coil formers (Jaycar LF-1227), using 0.25mm enamelled
copper wire. In each case, the coils
are close-wound at the bottom of the
former, as shown in the small diagram
of Fig.3.
Oscillator coil L3 has 15 turns, while
the other two have 20 turns each. The
difference between L1 and L2 is that L1
has a “tap” four turns from the bottom.
This tap is formed from a loop of the
winding wire, twisted and tinned at
the end so that it can be soldered to the
appropriate pad on the PC board (just
below CON1) when the coil is fitted.
It’s a good idea to apply a small amount
of clear nail varnish to the upper part
of each coil, to hold it in place.
(16) When the three coils are completed, they can be fitted to the board.
When doing so, make sure you orientate each coil so that its “A” pin (connected to the bottom of the coil) mates
with the earthy or “colder” pad on the
board. The board overlay diagram has
a small “A” next to each coil, to guide
you in this regard.
(17) Next, you need to make a couple
of copper shield plates for IC1 and
transistor Q1 to ensure stability. Fig.4
and the photos show how these plates
are made and fitted (note: if you are
unable to obtain copper foil, you can
use tinplate or blank PC board).
Both shields are attached using short
pieces of tinned copper wire which go
into adjacent holes in the PC board.
(18) Finally, plug IC2 (LM358) into its
socket, with its notched end nearer
IC1.
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The PC board fits inside
a standard plastic case
measuring 140 x 110 x
35mm. Note how the two
LEDs are bent forwards, to
go through their holes in
the front panel.
Your Jupiter Receiver board should
now be complete and ready for switchon and set-up.
Set-up
Before applying DC power to the
board via CON4, turn both VR1 and
VR2 to their fully anticlockwise position. Then plug a small loudspeaker
(8W) or a pair of stereo headphones
into CON3, so you’ll be able to monitor the receiver’s operation audibly.
When you then apply power, very little should happen initially apart from
LED1 beginning to glow.
If LED1 doesn’t light, odds are that
you’ve connected the DC supply to
the board with the polarity reversed.
Now try turning VR2 clockwise
slowly. You should begin to hear a
gentle hissing sound in the speaker or
one of the ’phones. If you have a DMM
(digital multimeter), measure the voltage at pin 8 of IC2. It should measure
very close to +12V if you’re using
REG1, or +11.4V if you are powering
the receiver from a 12V battery. Now
measure the voltage at the rear end of
RFC2 (ie, the end nearer REG2) which
should be very close to +6V.
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Finally, measure the voltage at pin 1
of IC2; this should be quite low – a few
tens of millivolts. If you then turn VR1
clockwise, this voltage should steadily
rise due to noise being amplified by
Q1, as its gain is increased. The hissing
sound in the speaker or ’phone should
increase at the same time.
If all is well so far, your receiver is
very likely to be working as it should
and you’ll be ready for setting it up.
This mainly involves adjusting trimmer capacitors VC1 and VC2 so that
the input and output circuits of the
RF stage are tuned to around 21MHz.
The easiest way to do this is if you
have access to an RF oscillator or signal
generator, able to deliver an amplitude
modulated RF signal of 21MHz to the
receiver’s input. The generator’s output is set to a level of about 100mV at
first. Then you should turn up both
VR1 and VR2 to about the centre of
their ranges (‘12 o’clock’), after which
you can slowly turn the knob of tuning capacitor VC3 up from its lowest
setting, until you hear a 400Hz or
1kHz tone (the generator’s modulation signal).
Now fine-tune VC3 carefully back
and forth with your thumb, to achieve
the loudest signal. If the sound becomes too loud or LED2 (the RSSI
indicator) begins glowing, turn down
VR2 and/or VR1 to reduce the gain.
And if the signal is still too loud, try
reducing the output level from the RF
generator.
Once you are sure that the oscillator is correctly tuned for reception at
21MHz, the next step is to carefully
adjust trimmer VC2 with a small alignment tool, to again find the correct
position for maximum signal. You may
again need to reduce the generator’s
output level, to prevent overload when
you do achieve a peak.
Once the correct tuning position for
VC2 has been found, the last step is
to adjust VC1 in the same way. In this
case, you will almost certainly have
to reduce the output level from the
generator to prevent overload.
In fact, by the time the tuning
procedure is finished, the generator’s
output should be wound down to a
mere 1mV or so.
No RF generator
If you don’t have access to an RF
August 2008 39
The antenna should be suspended as high as possible above
the ground with a north-south orientation. This can be done by
taping it to Nylon clothesline rope and running this between
two high fixing points (eg, between a house gable and a mast).
The balun and its connections are made waterproof by housing
it in a UB5 jiffy box – see inset.
generator, you’ll have to delay this tuning operation until you have built the
receiver’s antenna, erected it outside
in a suitable position and connected
it to the receiver’s input so that it can
provide you with some sort of signal
– either a short-wave broadcasting station somewhere in the 20.25-22.5MHz
range or just some atmospheric noise.
More about this shortly, after we’ve
talked about antennas.
Antennas for 21MHz
For reception of noise burst signals
from Jupiter or the Sun in the northern
hemisphere, the Radio Jove people
recommend the use of a twin-dipole
antenna array in which two halfwave dipoles are each aligned in an
east-west direction and spaced about
one half-wave apart, with them both
suspended at least 3.6m above ground.
The outputs of the two dipoles are
combined using a phasing cable arrangement, to tilt the antenna’s main
receiving lobe towards the south –
because currently, Jupiter’s orbit is inclined somewhat south of the equator.
In fact, the “declination” of its highest point (“transit”) in moving over
the sky is about -20° in the Northern
sky (ie, quite low towards the south).
6960mm
35mm OD x 13mm
thick L15 toroid
ONE END OF SECONDARY
CONNECTED TO CENTRE
CONDUCTOR OF COAX,
OTHER END TO SHIELD BRAID
(COAXIAL DOWNLEAD
TO RECEIVER)
CENTRE OF ANTENNA WIRE LOOPED THROUGH TOROID 6 TIMES, TO FORM PRIMARY OF BALUN.
SIX LOOPS OF SAME WIRE PASSED THROUGH TOROID TO FORM SECONDARY WINDING.
FOR BEST RESULTS SUSPEND ANTENNA AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE (>3.6m ABOVE GROUND),
AWAY FROM METAL OBJECTS AND WITH A ROUGHLY NORTH-SOUTH ORIENTATION.
Fig.5: this simple single-dipole antenna can be used with the Jupiter
Receiver to receive Jupiter’s noise bursts. The dipole is cut to a length of
6960mm to make it resonant at close to 21MHz and is coupled to a coaxial
downlead using a simple 1:1 balun made from a ferrite toroid.
40 Silicon Chip
In the southern hemisphere, Jupiter’s orbit is currently much higher
in the sky. In Sydney at the time of
writing, the declination of its transit
point is only slightly north of directly
overhead and it’s predicted to take a
couple of years before it swings significantly north. That’s because the
cyclic period of Jupiter’s declination
is almost 12 years and its southerly
peak was earlier this year.
All this means that for the next
couple of years, in Australia and New
Zealand it should be quite feasible to
use a basic single-dipole antenna for
reception of Jupiter’s noise bursts.
Accordingly, we have produced and
tested the very simple antenna design shown in Fig.5. It consists of a
single length of multi-strand copper
wire (we used one side of a length of
figure-8 speaker cable), cut to a length
of 6960mm (6.96 metres) to make it
resonant at very close to 21MHz.
This antenna should be suspended
at least 3.6m above the ground and
aligned as closely as possible to a
north-south direction. I did this by
taping it to a 6m length of Nylon
clothesline rope, which was then run
between a high point on the gable of
my house and the top of a 3m mast,
attached to the side of a workshop in
the backyard.
To couple signals from the antenna
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to a cable running back to the receiver’s
input, I made up a 1:1 balun (balanced
to unbalanced transformer) using a
small ferrite toroid as shown. This
toroid uses L15 material and is 35mm
in outside diameter, with a thickness
of 13mm (Jaycar LO-1238 or similar).
The centre of the antenna wire itself
is looped through the toroid six times
to form the primary winding of the
balun, while a short length of the same
type of wire is also looped through the
toroid six times to form the secondary
winding.
To make the balun weatherproof and
secure, I housed it in a little UB5 jiffy
box (83 x 54 x 31mm), with the two
ends of the antenna wire brought out
through a 3mm hole on each side near
the top. A BNC socket was then fitted
to the lower end of the box, with the
ends of the balun secondary winding
connected to the socket inside. The
downlead cable was connected to the
socket on the outside, after the box lid
had been screwed on.
The whole thing was then hauled
up on the Nylon rope, as it’s very light
in weight. I used short strips of gaffer
tape to attach the antenna wire and
balun to the rope but Nylon cable ties
would also be suitable.
No-generator tune-up
As mentioned earlier, if you don’t
have access to an RF oscillator or signal generator it’s still possible to tune
up the receiver reasonably well once
you have an antenna to provide it with
some signals in the vicinity of 21MHz.
The way to do this is to connect the
antenna, apply power to the receiver
and set both VR1 and VR2 to their midrange (12 o’clock) positions, so you
can hear a reasonable level of noise.
Now try adjusting tuning control
VC3 very slowly, to see if you can
find a shortwave broadcasting station.
I found a Chinese station at about
21.68MHz, for example – about twothirds of the way up the tuning range.
If you do find a station, leave VC3
set to the position for clearest reception and then try adjusting trimmer
VC2 very slowly and carefully with a
small alignment tool. You should find
a position which gives a peak in the
signal’s reception but you may need to
turn down gain controls VR2 and/or
VR1 to lower the volume and prevent
overload, so you can accurately find
this peak.
Once you are confident that VC2
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Decametric Radio Astronomy
B
ACK IN 1955, US radio astronomers Bernard Burke and Kenneth Franklin
discovered that the planet Jupiter was a strong source of “noise burst”
radio signals in the frequency range between about 8MHz and 40MHz – where
the radio wavelength is in the tens of metres (hence the term “decametric”).
They were using a “Mills Cross” antenna array, by the way, the design of which
had been pioneered by Australian radio astronomer Bernard Mills of CSIRO’s
Division of Radiophysics. The first Mills Cross had been built at Fleurs (about
40km west-south-west of Sydney) the previous year.
It was soon discovered that the Sun itself is also a source of noise bursts during periods of sunspot activity and “coronal mass ejections” (CMEs). These
solar noise bursts extend from the decametric range up to around 80MHz.
The relative ease of receiving noise bursts from Jupiter and the Sun in the
decametric frequency range using low-cost equipment seems to be why the
Radio Jove project selected this range (rather than in the UHF or microwave
regions). It should be noted though that because the signals are broadband
in nature, the specific frequency used to receive the signals is not critical. The
main requirement is to avoid frequencies occupied by international broadcasters and other terrestrial sources of radio signals.
Useful websites
A great deal of useful information on Jovian and Solar decametric radio
astronomy – both theory and practice – can be found on the following
websites:
http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/
http://ufro1.astro.ufl.edu/dec-contents.htm
http://www.jupiterradio.com/
http://www.radiosky.com/
The last of these sites is the source of the Radio-Skypipe software, which runs
on a Windows PC and allows you to record noise data from a Radio Jove or
similar receiver and print out “chart recordings” of them. There is a freeware
version of the software which can be downloaded from this site.
A useful source of skycharts and information on the rising and setting times
for Jupiter (as well as many other astronomical bodies) in any specific location is: http://www.heavens-above.com/
An Australian site with useful information on solar storms and their effect on
terrestrial radio conditions, etc is: http://www.ips.gov.au/
has been set correctly, leave both VC2
and VC3 with their current settings
and turn your attention to VC1, the
input circuit trimmer. Again it’s a matter of adjusting this very slowly and
carefully until you achieve a signal
peak, turning down VR2 and VR1 if
necessary to prevent overload and
distortion.
What if you can’t find a shortwave
station to help in this tuning-up procedure? That needn’t be a complete
disaster, because if you have a DMM
it’s possible to use a similar procedure
using just the decametric “cosmic
noise” being picked up by the antenna.
To do the tuning up this way, set
your DMM to a low DC voltage range
(say 0-2V) and connect it to the re-
ceiver to monitor the voltage at pin 1
of IC2. Then set tuning capacitor VC3
to the centre of its range and gain pots
VR1 & VR2 to the centre of their ranges
as well. When you apply power to the
receiver, you should get a reading of
100-200mV or so on the DMM, as well
as hearing the received noise in the
speaker or ’phone.
Now try adjusting VC2 slowly, first
in one direction and then the other, to
see if you can increase the DMM reading. Keep turning slowly in that direction, until the meter reading reaches
a peak and then begins to drop again.
Then return to the position where the
reading peaks and leave VC2 in that
position.
If the DMM reading rises above about
August 2008 41
There are just three controls on the front panel: an RF gain control, a tuning thumbwheel and an audio gain
control. The RSSI (received signal strength indicator) LED lights when there is a signal overload (see text).
800mV, lower the RF gain by turning
potentiometer VR1 anticlockwise, to
bring the reading down again to
200mV. This will make it easier to see
the peak reading on the DMM as you
adjust variable capacitor VC2.
After VC2 has been set to produce a
peak in this way, leave it as before and
follow the same procedure with VC1.
Again turn down VR1 if necessary to
prevent the DMM reading from rising
above about 800mV.
Once VC2 and VC1 have been set,
your Radio Jupiter receiver should be
tuned up about as well as possible
without access to a generator.
Fitting it to a case
The PC board is designed to fit inside
a low-profile plastic instrument case
measuring 140 x 110 x 35mm. First, you
will have to drill holes in the front and
rear panels. Figs.9 & 10 show the front
and rear panel artworks and these can be
downloaded from our website, printed
out and used as drilling templates.
The board is secured to the two
corner pillars at the back of the case
using self-tapping screws, while the
front of the board is secured to the
front panel via the pot shafts and their
nuts. Note that the board sits slightly
proud of the front pillars in the case.
Don’t attempt to screw the board down
to these pillars (otherwise the board
could crack).
Testing with Radio-Skypipe
To try out the new receiver and the
Chart Started 11 June 08 by Jim Rowe in Sydney, Australia
Fig.6: this recording chart covers almost the full period (about 11 hours) of Jupiter’s pass on the night of June 11,
2008 but shows very little evidence of signal bursts from Jupiter. Things were quiet around Jupiter that night!
42 Silicon Chip
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siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
15-18V DC
(OR 12V DC)
ANTENNA
SILICON
CHIP
LINE OUT
TO PC
SPEAKER
TUNING
POWER
POWER
RSSI
RF GAIN
also able to print it out as a pseudostrip chart recording – see Fig.6.
As you can see, the recording covers
almost the full period of Jupiter’s pass
that night (June 11, 2008), because it
rose at about 7pm, reached full transit
at 2:07am and set again at around 9am
the next morning. But the sky was very
overcast that night, so perhaps that’s
why there’s very little evidence of any
bursts of signal from Jupiter. Either
that, or things were pretty quiet around
Jupiter that night.
Looking around for some more
information, I discovered that there
are two different kinds of decametric
noise burst from Jupiter: “L” or long
bursts and “S” or short bursts. Both
seem to be controlled by various factors, including which side of Jupiter is
facing our way at the time and also the
orbital position of Jupiter’s principal
moon, Io.
Sunspot and storm activity on the
Sun also seem to play a role. They affect the way the Sun sends out streams
of charged particles which can spiral
RADIO
JUPITER
basic home-brew dipole antenna described above, I decided to download a
copy of the “Radio-Skypipe” software
which is recommended by the Radio
Jove people. This is a data-logging application which runs under Windows
95/98/NT/2000/XP and can be configured to log data signals via either the
ADC (analog-to-digital converter) in a
standard 16-bit PC sound card or an
external ADC.
There’s a free-download version for
non-commercial and non-government
users and a Pro Edition with extra bells
and whistles available for US$39.95,
for commercial and serious users.
I had no trouble installing the RadioSkypipe software on my old Win98
workshop PC and I was soon using it to
take samples of the Jupiter Receiver’s
audio signal twice every second. I then
left it running so that it would log a
complete pass of Jupiter over the following night.
When I stopped the logging at
7.00am the next morning, I then saved
the log file to the hard disk and was
SILICON
CHIP
Fig.8 (left): the RadioSkypipe software has
lots of logging options,
including start and
logging duration times.
AUDIO GAIN
Fig.7 (above): this
screen grab from the
Radio-Skypipe software
shows a recording chart
of the 21MHz signal for
a 10-minute period.
Fig.9: these artworks can be used as
drilling templates for the case panels.
around in Jupiter’s magnetic field.
So it seems that there probably
wasn’t much happening around Jupiter the night of my first logging run.
The only way to find out is to keep
trying, I guess. How about giving it a
SC
go yourself?
August 2008 43
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