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This solar battery charger
uses a compact 6V solar
panel to charge 12V
sealed lead acid or
conventional car
batteries. That sounds
a little odd but the
circuit employs a
voltage step-up to
extract good efficiency
from the panel.
Design by Branko Justic*
MINI SOLAR BAT
T
here is any number of applications where this Mini
Solar Battery Charger could be put to work. For
example, if you have a seldom-used boat which is
stored out in the open, whether on a trailer or swinging
on a mooring, this solar panel and charger could keep the
battery permanently topped up so that it would not risk
sulphation.
Maybe you have a caravan which spends most of its time
unattended? The same comments apply.
Or you might use the panel in conjunction with a sealed
lead acid (SLA) battery to provide permanent power for a
device which is not close to mains power.
Why a 6V solar panel for a 12V battery?
You might wonder why the circuit uses a 6V panel with
voltage step-up rather than a more conventional approach
of a 12V panel and a simpler regulator circuit.
The reason is that solar panels have their maximum
power output at somewhat higher than their nominal voltage. For example, a typical 12V solar panel will deliver its
maximum output at around 16V or thereabouts when it is
fully illuminated by the Sun.
That means that to get the maximum charging efficiency
at all times, a fairly complex boost/buck switchmode charging circuit must be used when charging 12V batteries.
For similar reasons, a 6V panel will deliver its maximum
output at around 8V and it makes sense to double its output to charge a 12V SLA battery. Then if the battery is up
92 Silicon Chip
to full charge (say 13.6V), the inclusion of a simple shunt
regulator will prevent over-charging.
The 6V panel used for this project comes in a sturdy
aluminium frame and measures 395 x 160mm, although
the active cell area is less than this, at 314 x 123mm.
In the photo opposite (where the ratings panel is highlighted), it shows the output is rated at 4W, with a Vmp of
8.5V and Imp of 0.47A. The panel’s open-circuit voltage
(Voc) is 10.6V and its short-circuit current (Isc) is 0.5A.
So those are the voltage and current parameters we are
working with.
The panel is coupled to the charger circuit of Fig.1. This
circuit is divided into two parts, the DC-DC Converter
(voltage step-up) and the Shunt Regulator. The DC-DC
Converter comprises a 4093 CMOS quad NAND Schmitt
Trigger gate package (IC1), two Mosfets (Q1 & Q2) and five
diodes (D1 – D5).
IC1b is connected as a square wave oscillator running
at around 4kHz, as determined by the 120kW resistor and
2.2nF capacitor. Its output is fed to gates IC1a & IC1c which
drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2 in complementary fashion, ie, when
Q1 is on, Q2 is off and vice versa.
Both gates IC1a & IC1c have RC networks at their inputs
to delay the clock pulses from IC1b while diodes D1 &
D2 are included to insure that the respective Mosfets are
switched off quickly.
The inclusion of the RC network components assures
that the two Mosfets can never be on at the same time, no
siliconchip.com.au
TTERY CHARGER
matter how short the time may be: This would effectively
place a short circuit across the supply and could blow the
Mosfets.
The output from the complementary Mosfets is used to
drive a cascade voltage doubler, also known as a “diode
pump” consisting of Schottky diodes D4 & D5 and the two
100mF 35V capacitors, C1 & C2. The voltage developed
across C2 would exceed 14V DC but is ultimately limited by
the following shunt regulator circuit involving Darlington
transistor Q3 and its associated components. The rate of
charge depends on the battery under charge but with the
4W solar panel supplied for this design, the charging rate
is around 250mA or thereabouts.
Shunt regulator
The shunt regulator circuit consists of Q3 (the already
mentioned TIP117 Darlington transistor), zener diode ZD1
(12V) and diode D6. Nothing happens in the shunt regula-
Here’s the back of
the solar panel used
in this project, with
the specifications
panel highlighted.
Maximum opencircuit voltage is
10.6V while the
short-circuit current
is 0.5A.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2008 93
DC-DC CONVERTER SECTION
+
D4
A
D3
1N5817-8-9
100 F
16V
SHUNT REGULATOR
D5
K
A
1N5817-8-9
A
D7
A
K
1N5817-8-9
K
+
1N5817-8-9
K
D1
1N4148
120k
5
FROM
SOLAR
PANEL
IC1b
10 F
16V
A
K
2
6
2.2nF
A
3
S
G
IC1a
12
IC1:
4093
D2
1N4148
2.2nF
14
1
12k
4
C1
100 F
35V
D
IC1d
Q1
2SJ607
600
8
B
A
11
13
9
1N4148
10
G
S
7
2.2nF
C
D6
TO
BATTERY
K
Q2
2SK3812 OR
SDP85N03L
D
IC1c
Q3
TIP117
10k
C2
100 F
35V
K
12k
E
K
ZD1
12V
A
–
–
1N4148
A
ZD1
1N5817-8-9
K
A
A
K
K
SOLAR POWER REGULATOR
SC
2008
Q1, Q2
G
C
TIP117
D
B
S
C
E
Fig.1: the circuit diagram. We’ve broken it into two sections for ease of understanding – most of the work is
done by the DC-DC converter while the shunt regulator only operates when the battery is charged.
tor circuit until the voltage across the zener diode is high
enough for it to conduct. For that to happen, diode D6 and
the base-emitter junction of Q3 also must be forward biased.
For that to happen, the total voltage across that string must
therefore be 12V + 0.6V + 1.2V = 13.8V. When the voltage
across Q3 rises to this level, it effectively becomes a high
power zener diode and conducts heavily to prevent any
further voltage rise.
In other words, Q3 “regulates” the voltage by “shunting
off” the excess.
Finally, the Schottky diode D7 further drops the voltage
being fed to the battery to about 13.6V, by dint of its forward
voltage drop of around 0.2V. Diode D7 also serves as an
isolating diode and prevents the shunt from operating if
74
HEATSINK
CUT FROM 1.3mm
ALUMINIUM SHEET
50
24
70
38
Q3
G
TIP117
D (UNDER
BOARD)
12V
+
ZD1
100 F
100 F
D5
SOLAR PANEL
D7
– +
S
D4
BATTERY
IN5819
94 Silicon Chip
A152K
– +
+
100 F
G
Q1
Q2
(UNDER D
BOARD)
+
D6
10 F
+
S
4148
12k
2.2nF
4093
D2
31
IC1
D1
2.2nF
2.2nF
4148
12k
120k
MOC.SCINORTCELEYELTAO C
D3
Fig.2 (left): the
component
overlay with its
aluminium heatsink attached.
The photo at right
shows exactly the
same thing for
comparison.
siliconchip.com.au
PARTS LIST – Mini Solar Battery Charger
1 PC board,74 x 54mm, coded OE-K251A
1 plastic case to suit PC board
1 14-pin IC socket
2 2-way screw terminals with 5mm spacing
2 6mm self-tapping screws
1 3mm diam. 10mm long screw with nut and washer
Semiconductors
1 4093 quad Schmitt NAND gate (IC1)
1 2SJ607 P-channel Mosfet (Q1)
1 2SK3812 N-channel Mosfet (Q2)
1 TIP117 Darlington PNP Transistor (Q3)
3 1N4148 signal diodes (D1,D2,D6)
4 IN5817 Schottky diodes (D3-D5,D7)
1 12V 400mW zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
2 100mF 35V PC electrolytic (C1,C2)
1 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
3 2.2nF MKT polyester or disc ceramic
the battery voltage rises to above 13.8V while it is being
charged by other means: alternator, charger etc.
Note that shunt regulators are inherently inefficient and
in fact, in this circuit, once the battery has come up to full
voltage, Q3 dissipates 100% of the boost circuit’s output,
ie, is 0% efficient. This also means that Q3 will dissipate
about 3 watts and it will need a heatsink.
The heatsink is the one “component” not supplied in the
kit. You’ll need to find a small piece of aluminium about
75mm or so square and cut it to shape to suit the PC board.
While 1.3mm aluminium is specified, if you have slightly
thicker, use it. In fact, thicker will make a better heatsink.
We wouldn’t go any thinner though.
The dimensions are shown on the component overlay. It
also needs a hole for the bolt – the quickest way to get its
position is to bring the heatsink and PC board together and
mark the bolt hole position from the hole in the PC board.
At least that way you’ll know they’ll match!
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
1 120kW
2 12kW
This project was designed by Oatley Electronics, who
hold the copyright on the project and PC board pattern.
A complete kit for this project, which includes the
solar panel, PC board, components, case and 12V 7Ah
battery is available from Oatley Electronics for $79.00.
Individual components are also available:
The solar panel – $36.00; Electronics kit – $18.00;
and 12V 7Ah battery – $25.00
Contact: Oatley Electronics Pty Ltd.
PO BOX 89, OATLEY, NSW 2223, AUSTRALIA
Phone: 02 9584 3563
website: www.oatleyelectronics.com
* Oatley Electronics Pty Ltd
not you use an IC socket) make sure its notch points to the
right, as shown on the component overlay. Otherwise you’ll
almost certainly let its smoke out and as we all know, to
work projects need the smoke to stay inside.
The TIP117 Darlington transistor also requires special
mention. Two of its leads, the emitter and base, solder to
the PC board in the normal way but its collector connects
to the copper via the small bolt and nut which holds it and
the heatsink in position.
The easiest way to make sure that the hole in the transistor lines up with the hole in the PC board is to mount it,
with its heatsink underneath, onto the PC board with its
Board assembly
All the components for this project are mounted on a PC
board measuring 74 x 54mm and coded OE-K251A. The
major point of interest about the PC board is that the two
Mosfets (Q1 & Q2) are surface-mount devices which have
their bodies soldered directly to the underside. This is the
first step in the assembly.
You can do this by first tinning the leads with solder.
Then hold the Mosfets in place with a clothes peg or similar
spring clamp. They’re pretty small so you must make sure
you get them into the right spot before soldering and that
they don’t move during soldering.
You might need to apply a little extra solder to ensure
the leads are actually soldered to the PC board.
Once these are done, proceed as you would for any
project: solder the lowest components such as the 1N4148
diodes and work your way up to the tallest capacitors.
Leave the 4093 IC until last just to make sure you don’t
damage it. When you’re ready to solder it (and whether or
siliconchip.com.au
This oscilloscope screen shot illustrates the operation of
the DC-DC converter section of the circuit. The top trace
(yellow) is the oscillator output from pin 4 of IC1, running
at 7.6kHz. Traces 2 & 3 (magenta and cyan) show the
delayed gate drive signals to the complementary Mosfets,
Q1 & Q2. Finally, the green trace shows the waveform at
the commoned drains of Q1 & Q2 and this drives the diode
pump circuit involving D4 & D5.
February 2008 95
The regulator with its heatsink mounted inside the plastic
case supplied with the kit (left). Above the same case is
shown in its closed position. Provision is made for cables
to emerge from the bottom of the case (handy when used
outdoors!).
bolt and nut. You only need to do the nut up finger-tight
just now. Bend the base and emitter leads down at the
appropriate point so they will go through their holes in
the PC board.
If you have a brass bolt and nut, it’s a good idea to solder
the nut to the PC board copper to make absolutely sure it’s
making good contact. The same can be done for steel nuts
but usually these have a nickel coating which makes them
difficult to solder.
(Don’t know if you have a steel or brass nut? Try a magnet – if it picks up it’s steel!)
Mounting in the case
If you are building the project from the complete Oatley
kit, it will come with a small case (as shown above) which
is a perfect fit for the PC board and heatsink (you’d almost
think they were designed that way . . .).
Even the two mounting holes on the bottom of the PC
board line up with mounting pillars inside the case.
Using it
If everything has been assembled correctly, it should
work properly first up. There are no adjustments or controls
to worry about.
Connect the solar panel and battery with polarity-marked
cable – polarised figure 8 is ideal – to the appropriate
terminal blocks (again, watch the polarity – make sure +
goes to + and - goes to -).
Measure the voltage in from the solar panel and compare
it to the voltage out across C2 (if you measure the output
terminals you’re likely to be reading the battery voltage).
If the panel voltage is ~6-8V and the voltage out is >12V,
the circuit is working correctly. After a full day’s charge
in the sun you should find the heatsink gets quite warm,
indicating that the shunt regulator section is also working
correctly.
SC
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