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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The simple Aristone M1 4-valve
mantel receiver
The Aristone M1 is a 4-valve superhet
receiver that was sold during the late 1950s
& early 1960s. Designed for the budget end
of the market, it was typical of the re-badged
sets that appeared during that era.
There were many small radio receiver manufacturers in Australia
until the Japanese began to dominate
the radio manufacturing industry in
the mid-1970s. In most cases, these
small Australian firms made radios for
much larger organisations like Myers
and similar chain stores. The sets were
branded to suit Myers and the various
other organisations that did not make
radios themselves.
This re-badging has been part of the
radio and TV consumer market almost
since radio made its appearance early
last century. Of course, once a set was
opened up, its true manufacturer was
usually obvious to an experienced
serviceman.
The Aristone M1
The Aristone M1 is one such set that
was made by a small manufacturer for
a large retailer, in this case Myers. As
far as I can determine, “Aristone” was
the name Myers used on the radios
badged for them but I have not been
able to discover who actually made
the Aristone sets.
The M1 was a fairly standard 4-valve
mantel receiver that came housed in a
plastic case. It employs a conventional
superhet circuit, with a 6AN7A converter stage followed by a 6N8 as the
455kHz intermediate frequency (IF)
amplifier – see Fig.1.
The diodes in the 6N8 are used as
the detector and for the delayed AGC
system. From there, the detected
audio is passed through the volume
control and then to the 6M5 audio
output valve.
The power supply uses a 6V4 as
This is the full-restored receiver. The set is housed in a rectangular plastic cabinet and carries just two controls: an
on/off volume control and a simple “handspan” tuning control.
92 Silicon Chip
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Fig.1: the Aristone M1 uses four valves in a superhet configuration. A 6AN7 functions as the converter stage and is
followed by a 6N8 IF amplifier and detector stage. The detected signal is then fed to a 6M5 audio output stage. The
power supply is conventional and is based on mains transformer T1 and a 6V4 rectifier valve.
a full-wave rectifier. This provides
around 260V DC at its cathode, which
is then fed directly to the plate circuits
of all the amplifying valves.
By contrast, the screens and the
oscillator plate circuit are fed via a
dropping resistor and receive around
116V DC. This voltage is really a bit
high for the RF valves which are nominally rated at 85V. Bias for the valves
and the AGC bias are both obtained
from the back-bias developed across
the resistors in series between the HT
secondary winding centre-tap and the
chassis.
Cabinet details
The M1 is mounted in a rectangular
plastic cabinet, which is rather large
for a simple, 4-valve mantel receiver.
There are two controls on the front
of the set: an on-off/volume control
and a “handspan” direct-drive tuning
control. The circular dial scale has
markings for stations in all states.
While writing this article, it occurred to me that the Aristone’s cabinet
was similar to the cabinet used for
the Admiral 5BW (described in the
September 2006 issue). Sure enough,
when I placed the two cabinets sideby-side, they were identical, except
that the front escutcheons are different
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and the Aristone is red whereas the
Admiral is cream.
So it would seem that the cabinets
for the Admiral and the Aristone came
out of the same factory and that they
were available in at least two different colours. In fact, I believe that the
cabinet was designed for the Admiral,
as there is a cutout for a serial number
on the back cover. This corresponds
to where the serial number is on the
Admiral chassis.
By contrast, the Aristone chassis is
recessed 75mm from the back of the set
and its serial number is at the opposite
end of the chassis from the serial number cutout. In fact, the physical layouts
of the two sets are quite different and
the chassis were definitely made by
different manufacturers.
Undoing three self-tapping screws
allows the back to be removed. This
reveals that the chassis is mounted
vertically and consists mainly of a
flat piece of steel attached to the front
of the cabinet. Because the cabinet is
so large, the components mounted on
the top of the chassis plate are well
spread out, which makes them easily
accessible.
In order to remove the chassis, it’s
necessary to first remove both control
knobs. The on-off/volume knob simply
pulls straight off but the tuning control
knob is slightly more complicated. It’s
removed by first rotating the control so
that the tuning gang is closed and then
continuing to rotate it while pulling on
the dial until it comes off.
Next, four screws in the back of the
set that hold the chassis plate in position are removed. That done, the two
loudspeaker leads are removed using
a pair of long-nosed pliers, after which
the chassis plate can be removed.
Once it’s out, the under-chassis lay
out can be inspected. Like the top of
the chassis, there is a lot of space to
mount the components and they are
well spread out, with no overcrowding.
The wiring is also extremely tidy for
what must have been a budget-priced
receiver. Single-core hook-up wire has
been used to maintain the neat look
but a bit more variety in the colour of
the insulation would have been a good
idea to assist circuit tracing.
Restoration
When I obtained the set, some work
had already been done on it so only
a small amount of extra work was
required to restore it to full operation.
First, the cabinet needed cleaning
up and a light rub-down with a some
automotive cut and polish compound
January 2008 93
The chassis is mounted vertically inside the cabinet, with all valves readily accessible. Note that the original 2-core
power lead was replaced by a 3-core lead, so that the chassis could be earthed. It’s shown here with its clamp temporarily
secured by a transformer mounting screw. The clamp was later separately secured to the chassis using a machine screw,
lock washer & nut, to comply with current standards.
The parts on the underside of the chassis are neatly laid out and are also readily accessible. The only part that required
replacement was the paper bypass capacitor for the screen circuit.
did the trick. That done, it was time
to turn my attention to the chassis
components.
The majority of the fixed capacitors were Philips polyester types and
none of these needed replacement.
However, the bypass capacitor for the
screen circuits was a paper type and
so this was replaced with a polyester
unit.
All the other components appeared
to be in good order and a visual inspection was easily carried out, as the lay94 Silicon Chip
out is so open. I also checked for shorts
and partial shorts on the high-tension
(HT) line. (partial shorts can be caused
by defective electrolytic capacitors). I
then checked the speaker transformer
and found that its primary winding
was continuous. This is an important
step, as an open-circuit speaker transformer primary can result in damage
to the output valve.
Smoke test
It was now time for the smoke test.
I connected my multimeter across the
HT line, switched it to the 400V range
and turned the set on. I then allowed
it to warm-up, all the time keeping
an eye on the meter reading and the
rectifier valve.
When the voltage had risen to
around 100V, I switched off the power
and waited until the electrolytic capacitors had discharged. This procedure was then repeated several times
over the next few minutes, each time
allowing the voltage to rise a little
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higher before switching off. The rectifier showed no sign of overload during
this procedure which was necessary
to reform the electrolytic capacitors.
I then ran the set for around half an
hour to make sure the power transformer was not overheating. That
done, it was time to check and adjust
the set for best performance.
Checking the performance
There are basically only four points
on the chassis where the voltages needed to be checked. First, the HT voltages
can be measured at the positive terminals of the 16mF and 8mF electrolytic
capacitors. These two points measured
258V and 116V respectively, with the
mains at 245V AC. Note that if the
mains voltage had been 240V AC, these
two voltages would more likely have
been 250V and 110V.
The HT voltage to the plates is quite
normal, although I believe that the
designers were pushing the two RF
valves a bit by applying 110V (nominal) to their screens (the recommended
screen voltage is around 85V). The
6M5 on the other hand is run with a
relatively low screen voltage, which
will not do it any harm.
Checking the bias
The back-bias was checked next
and I was initially a little surprised
at the measured voltages and just
where they were applied in the set.
With no input signal, the back-bias
voltages measured -4.2V and -8.8V. I
had expected to see the -8.8V applied
to the 6M5 rather than to the RF valves
as the latter usually have around -2V
applied to them.
As shown in Fig.1, the -8.8V bias is
applied via a voltage divider network
consisting of a 1MW resistor and two
2.2MW resistors to chassis. There
is around -7V at the junction of the
1MW and the 2M2 resistors, which is
the delay voltage for the AGC system.
This reduces to around -3.5V (relative
to chassis) at the junction of the two
2.2MW AGC resistors, which is the
standing bias for the two RF valves.
With such a high delay voltage on
the AGC diode, the RF signal needs to
be quite substantial for any AGC to be
developed. The two 2.2MW resistors
then divide this AGC voltage in half,
so not a lot of AGC is applied to the
two RF valves unless the signals are
quite strong.
So why have such a high delay on
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the AGC and then only apply half the
available voltage to control the RF
valves? In fact, there is a very good
reason for this.
Basically, there has to be a reasonably high output level from the detector in order to drive the 6M5 stage to
full audio output. However, if a low
level of delay and full AGC were applied to the front-end of the set, the
output level from the detector would
be more constant for all signals (weak
or strong) and so we would not be able
to obtain full audio output (even with
the volume control turned full up).
On the other hand, if the set had a
2-stage audio amplifier, this method of
obtaining full audio output would not
be required. A few simple superhets
use this system but I’m not all that
keen on it as it is very much a design
compromise.
Initially, I believed that the -4.2V of
bias on the 6M5’s grid was rather low.
However, it really is quite adequate as
the screen voltage is so low.
The converter (6AN7) and IF (6N8)
stages are quite conventional, with
quite high gain from the IF stage. Two
miniature Philips 455kHz transformers do a good job in keeping the gain
of the stage high.
The IF amplifier was stable but had
a slight tendency to be regenerative if
I brought my hand near it. One possibility was that the audio amplifier
was receiving some 455kHz signal,
amplifying it and then re-radiating it
back into the IF stage. To check this, I
connected an oscilloscope probe to the
top of the volume control and found
that there was a small amount of IF
signal there.
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Knowing what to look for
You have to know what you are
looking for here and how to go about
it. To inspect audio waveforms, the
scan rate is set to around 5ms/cm. By
contrast, to inspect the IF component
of the audio signal, the scan rate has
to be set to around 5ms/div.
In addition, the ratio of 455kHz
signal to audio is quite low, so the
sensitivity of the vertical deflection
must be increased so that the audio
waveform extends well outside the
screen.
When there is no signal modulation, a sinewave signal will be seen
on the screen, which is the 455kHz
signal on the audio line. In this case,
some 455kHz signal was observed so
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January 2008 95
Photo Gallery: 1949 Astor Model GJ
the dial readings were correct and the
sensitivity had improved dramatically.
In fact, this set had probably been
considered to be a “dog” all its life
because someone, at the time of manufacture had put the wrong padder
capacitor in the circuit. I wonder
how many other sets of this model
had the same inbuilt fault?
Power cord
ANOTHER PRODUCT OF RADIO CORPORATION, MELBOURNE, the Astor
Model GJ was produced in 1949 and is housed in a large bakelite cabinet
with a large, easy-to-read tuning dial. In spite of the size of the set, it is
only a 4-valve model.
The valves line-up was as follows: 6A8-G frequency changer; 6B8-G reflexed
IF amplifier/1st audio amplifier/detector/AVC rectifier; 6V6-GT audio output;
and 5Y3-GT rectifier. Photo: Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
I then checked at the moving arm of
the volume control. However, there
was virtually no sign of the 455kHz
signal at this point, which was what I
was hoping for.
Shielded cable
It’s interesting to note that shielded
cable is used for the audio connections
to the top of the volume potentiometer and to its wiper terminal. Fairly
obviously, it’s the stray capacitance
of this shielded cable that attenuates
the IF signal.
The shielded cable also helps prevent hum pick-up. It’s a pity that more
manufacturers of that era didn’t shield
the low-level audio lines.
The 6M5 audio output amplifier is
simple and effective. Note that its plate
circuit has a 5.6nF capacitor which
connects to the screen. This filters out
any residual IF signal that may have
found its way through and acts as a
top-cut filter on the audio.
Alignment
Alignment of the IF and RF sections
in a set such as this should be a snack,
96 Silicon Chip
as access is easy and there are only
eight adjustments in total. We won’t
discuss the alignment procedure here
– the full details are in the December
2002, January 2003 & February 2003
issues of SILICON CHIP.
The IF alignment went very well but
when it came to the RF section, I found
that the oscillator and aerial tuned circuits would not track correctly across
the band. What was puzzling was that
the set tuned easily to signals below
500kHz. This was unusual as most
sets will not tune so low in frequency,
even if a deliberate attempt is made to
make them do so.
I looked around the circuit to see if
there was anything that might cause
this and eventually spotted the problem. The set had been fitted with a
470pF padder capacitor instead of the
correct 425pF capacitor. As a result, I
replaced the padder with a combination of styroseal capacitors (as I didn’t
have the right value) and tried the set
again.
The alignment of the front-end
was now a breeze. Because the tuned
circuits were now tracking correctly,
In the interests of safety, I replaced the original 2-core power
lead with a 3-core lead and added
a cable clamp to secure it. This allows the chassis to be earthed and
a cable clamp is much more secure
than simply tying a knot in the lead
(which is illegal these days).
By the way, one of the photos
shows the cable clamp secured by
one of the transformer mounting
screws. This clamp was later separately secured to the chassis, to comply
with current requirements.
Similarly, the power cord earth lead
was secured to a separate earth lug that
was securely bolted to another point
on the chassis.
Summary
The Aristone M1 is a real “bitser”
(ie, it has bits from all over the place).
The cabinet probably came from an
“end of run” Admiral set, the knob
and handspan dial look suspiciously
like AWA parts, and some of the other
parts look like they were made by
Kriesler and Philips. There was certainly nothing wrong with using these
components, as they all did the job.
Aristone, or whoever the actual
manufacturer was, produced quite
a good receiver using these bits and
pieces. In fact, if something like a
6BM8 had been used as a 2-stage audio
amplifier along with a slightly redesigned AGC system, this radio would
have been a really red hot performer.
The set is also easy to access, although longer speaker leads would
have made servicing easier. The aerial
coil could also have been positionted
so that it could be adjusted when the
chassis was installed in its cabinet.
This is certainly not a set that would
have collectors crawling over broken
glass to obtain. However, considering
what it represents – a “bitser” made by
a small manufacturer (probably from
production over-runs by other manufacturers) – it’s a nice little set that I’m
SC
happy to have in my collection.
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