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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The versatile multi-band
Ferris 174 portable
had produced radios to suit AC/DC
mains, some fine 32V receivers and a
few high-quality multi-band receivers
but when it came to TV sets, no 12V
or 32V-powered receivers were made
locally.
In those days, there was a strong
demand for electronic equipment –
radios mostly – that could be used by
people in rural areas where there was
no mains power. Radios in the 1950s,
60s and 70s were still relatively expensive and a set that could be used
in many different situations would be
an attractive product.
In particular, a radio that could be
used as a household receiver, a car
radio and a portable receiver would
find a ready market. It would cost more
than a conventional set but it would
still work out cheaper than having to
buy three separate sets.
Ferris radios
Radio sets were expensive 50 years ago,
so sets that could take on the combined
role of a car radio, a domestic receiver
and a personal portable found a ready
market. One such set was the multi-band
Ferris 174 8-transistor radio.
M
OST OF THE larger Australian
radio and TV manufacturers,
including AWA, HMV and Astor,
concentrated on producing items that
were sold in their thousands. Before
the advent of TV, these products were
mainly four and 5-valve radios, either
240V mains-operated or broadcast86 Silicon Chip
band valve portables. In addition,
several manufacturers produced some
outstanding car radios.
Commercial production of mainsoperated TV receivers began in 1956
and again the manufacturers concentrated on items that would sell
in large quantities. Previously, they
Fortunately, one Australian manufacturer, Ferris Brothers Pty Ltd,
stepped into this niche market. Ferris
was not a mainstream manufacturer
and did not concentrate on the common four or 5-valve mantel receivers
of the era. Instead, it was a specialised
manufacturer that produced many innovative radio and allied electronic
products.
Ferris Brothers commenced business around 1934 and subsequently
specialised in car radios. However,
the Australian Official Radio Service
Manuals (AORSM) do not list any
Ferris sets until 1946, so Ferris was
probably quite a small manufacturer
up until that time.
Their products became more readily available after World War II and by
1947 they were producing a car radio
that could not only be powered from
a 12V battery but from 240V AC as
well. It featured an elementary noise
limiter, as did a bus radio that came
out in the same year.
By 1949, the company was producing a 3-band car radio cum domestic
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receiver complete with noise limiter.
The engine bay layouts of vehicles
from that period were not conducive
to minimising spark ignition noise, so
noise limiters were a necessary feature
of such sets.
In 1955, Ferris started building AC/
battery-powered portables which had
provision to plug in a car radio antenna. They subsequently found that,
with the advent of transistors, they
could make radios that were truly portable. These sets could also be used as
car radios when plugged into a cradle
or they could be laid on the seat in a
safety bracket – rather like a seat belt
for radios (and well before they became
compulsory for humans)!
As with their earlier sets, these new
sets were designed to connect to a car’s
radio antenna.
Many such sets were also considered
suitable for use as domestic receivers,
as they had quite a large battery fitted.
Some also featured shortwave reception so that those people in remote
areas could at least listen to the ABC’s
shortwave inland service. These sets
were also of considerable interest to
people interested in listening to shortwave radio as a hobby.
This ABC’s inland service, by the
way, was disbanded several years ago
and replaced by the “HF Shower” service. It emanates from Alice Springs,
Tennant Creek and Catherine and
broadcasts on the 2MHz and 4MHz
bands.
This is the view inside the front of the set with the front panel removed. The
cardboard pointer at left indicates the mechanical linkage between the bandchange switch and its front-panel control knob.
The Ferris 174 receiver
The Ferris multi-purpose model
174 came out in 1963. This set was
enclosed in an attractive gunmetal grey
aluminium case and measured 255 x
220 x 100mm (W x H x D), including
the knobs. The back features a black
perforated aluminium sheet while
the front also features a perforated
aluminium sheet, which is coloured
black and off-white.
In keeping with the theme, the
knobs are black and white, while the
slide-rule dial scale is finished in
black, white and blue, with a red dial
pointer.
The ferrite rod antenna is encased
in a plastic rectangular sleeve, which
swivels along its longest axis. It is
located on the top of the set and also
acts as the carry handle. The cabinet
certainly isn’t as flashy as some transistor radios of the era but has a real
no-nonsense look about it.
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The rear view inside the set is dominated by the PC board, with the tuning gang
and band-change switch to the right. The ferrite rod antenna is hidden inside
the handle.
The model 174 was produced over
a 4-year period until at least 1967 and
sold for $124.50 – about 50% more
than a good car radio of the era and
much more than the average wage at
the time. It was supplied complete
with a car seat bracket and a wire
indoor antenna.
May 2008 87
This close-up view shows the band-change switch and several of its associated
coils. The switch is used to select between the ferrite loop antenna and a car
radio antenna on the medium-wave band and also to select the 2-6MHz and
6-18MHz shortwave bands.
A close-up view of the main PC board. Despite its age (40 years), the set is still
in quite good condition and required only minor work to get it going.
Basically, the Ferris 174 was a multipur
pose, 8-transistor, triple-wave,
portable-cum-car radio. It was also
touted as being quite suitable as a
cordless mantel receiver.
Metal case
As was common to most Ferris receivers, the model 174 used a metal
case and this ensured good shielding
of the circuitry from interference. This
88 Silicon Chip
meant that signal pick-up could only
take place via the car’s antenna or via
the external (to the case) loopstick
antenna. Some extraneous interference may have been able to penetrate
the receiver if an external speaker was
in use, although this is likely to have
been minimal.
In the vehicles of the era, a conventional portable radio sitting on the seat
of the car suffered severe interference
if the engine was running. There were
two reasons for this: (1) interference
from the ignition system and other
electrical equipment, even if “suppressed”, was still high enough to
severely mar reception; and (2) the
metalwork of the vehicle acted as a
Faraday shield and this reduced the
signal picked up by the ferrite rod antenna. This shielding effect also acted
to concentrate the interference within
the cabin of the vehicle.
As a result, most Ferris portables,
including the 174, featured a shielded
case (just like purpose-built car radios)
and included a socket to plug in an
external car radio antenna. Ferris
did their homework well – their sets
worked well in a car but most portables
from other manufacturers were unsuitable in this role because the problems
outlined above were not addressed.
As well as the car radio antenna,
the band switching in the receiver
also allows either a long-wire antenna
or the loopstick antenna system to
be used on the broadcast band (5301620kHz). On shortwave, the receiver
can be switched to cover 2-6MHz or
6-18MHz but must be used with an
external antenna, whether in a car, in
the home or out in the “bush”.
On the shortwave bands, the receiver was often used by people who
needed to listen to relatively weak stations such as the Royal Flying Doctor
Service, bushfire brigade communications and small ships (fishing boats). It
was also used by those who wanted to
listen to shortwave services such as the
abovementioned ABC inland service,
the BBC and VOA, etc.
The set used a No.286 battery which
gave up to 1000 hours of operation
before replacement was needed. In
fact, the set will work with a supply
voltage as low as 5V, which meant that
every last bit of electrical energy could
be wrung out of the battery. This also
meant that it was quite economic to
use it as a battery-powered domestic
receiver (ie, without recourse to the
use of a mains power adaptor).
So the Ferris 174 was a very versatile
set. At home, it could be powered from
a mains adaptor (or from batteries). On
the way to the beach, it could easily be
connected to the car’s radio antenna
via the coaxial antenna cable. And at
the beach, it could be used as a true
portable.
Even so, you probably would not
want to have to carry the set too far.
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Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit details. It uses eight transistors
and delivers good sensitivity over the three bands tuned.
The transistors are second-generation germanium types,
which were more sensitive and had lower noise than the
original OC44 and OC45 series.
The input circuit is relatively complex, with a 4-pole
4-position switch section used to select between the ferrite
loop antenna and the car antenna (or a long antenna). An
OC171 PNP transistor is used as the radio frequency (RF)
amplifier and the amplified signal is then fed on to a second
OC171, which acts as an autodyne converter.
The various coils (10 in all) are switched using another 10
poles on the 4-position wave-change switch. A total of 20
adjustments is required to accurately align the front-end of
the receiver, while the intermediate frequency (IF) amplifier
requires a further five adjustments.
Following the converter is a 2-stage IF amplifier based
on two OC169 transistors. Neither of these transistor stages
is neutralised. Note also that the emitter of the second IF
transistor stage is not bypassed, which improves its ability
to deal with strong signals.
Following the IF amplifier is an OA91 detector diode.
This is biased close to its conduction point by resistors
R17, R18 & R19 and this greatly improves the sensitivity
of the detector.
A second OA91 diode is used to derive the automatic
gain control (AGC) voltage. This voltage is fed to the base
of the RF amplifier transistor via R16 & R2. The AGC voltage rises as the signal strength increases, to gradually cut
this transistor off. In addition, its emitter is connected to
the base circuit of the first IF amplifier (OC169) and so the
forward bias on the latter is also reduced, which reduces
its gain with strong signals.
Note that the forward bias for the RF stage (OC171)
is adjusted by trimpot R3. However, the service manual
makes no mention of the circumstances under which R3 is
adjusted. In practice, I suspect that it was adjusted during
manufacture to give best performance when the receiver
was tuned to a weak signal.
Following the detector is a three-stage audio amplifier
based on two OC71s and two OC74 transistors. The OC74
class-B output pair are driven in push-pull fashion by
transformer T1 and in turn drive the internal loudspeaker
via transformer T2.
There is also provision for an external speaker to be
plugged in (doing this automatically disconnected the internal unit). This allowed a larger car speaker to be used, to
give improved audio performance in a noisy cabin.
Negative feedback in the audio amplifier is derived from
one side the speaker-transformer secondary winding. This
feedback signal is applied via R36 to the base of the OC71
audio driver-transistor (ie, the transistor driving transformer
T1).
Preventing thermal runaway
Germanium transistors are very sensitive to heat and
draw more current as they heat up. This increased current
then leads to even more heating and can soon escalate into
thermal runaway which can destroy the device.
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Fig.1: the Ferris 174 is a fairly conventional superhet receiver based on eight germanium PNP transistors. An OC171 functions as an RF amplifier, while a
second OC171 acts as an autodyne converter. This is followed by a 2-stage RF amplifier based on two OC169 transistors, while the remaining OC71 & OC74
transistors form a 3-stage audio amplifier. An OA91 diode is used as the detector, while a second OA91 is used to derive the AGC voltage.
With its battery installed, it weighs in at about 4kg so it is
not exactly a lightweight.
May 2008 89
fitting black tubing over the transistor
to make it look a bit tidier.
Testing the receiver
This is the front panel prior to restoration. It was cleaned and resprayed
with off-white and flat black paint, so that it now looks new again.
To prevent this, special precautions
must be taken to thermally stabilise
the two OC74 audio output transistors. In this circuit, this is achieved
using thermistor R32. Its resistance
decreases as the temperature rises and
this automatically reduces the forward
bias on the transistors as their junction temperatures rise. This in turn
stabilises the current through them
and prevents thermal runaway.
Restoring the 174
The unit featured here was obtained
from a member of my local vintage
radio club. It was handed to me completely unrestored and its owner also
kindly lent me the service manual to
help with this column.
The receiver looked as though it had
had plenty of use, with some scuffing
of the cabinet. The cabinet also looked
a bit shabby in the areas where the perforated aluminium panels are fitted.
Removing the front and back panels
is quite straightforward. The back
panel is removed by first undoing
two screws along the bottom of the
case, after which the back can be
swung out.
The front panel first requires the
dial pointer to be run to the lefthand
end of the dial. Three screws are then
undone from the dial scale which is
then removed. That done, the knobs are
removed followed by two more screws
on the bottom of the case. Finally, the
speaker leads are disconnected and the
90 Silicon Chip
front panel removed by swivelling it
out from the bottom.
As can be seen in one of the photographs, the front panel in particular
had lots of marks. I cleaned the mesh
with fine wet-and-dry paper and then
used a damp, soapy rag to remove any
body grease from the front panel. This
was then followed with a damp rag.
Once it was cleaned, I masked off
and applied some off-white and flat
black spray paint to the various panel
sections. This considerably improved
the appearance of the panel which now
looks new again.
Getting back to the receiver, all
controls worked as they should and
only required a little sewing-machine
oil on their various moving surfaces
to ensure continued smooth operation. To get into awkward spots, I use
a 2.5ml hypodermic syringe partially
filled with the required lubricant (I
also blunt the needle on a grinder
to avoid accidents). That done, the
switch contacts were sprayed with
Inoxa, as corrosion was evident on
some of them.
A close examination of the internals
of the set revealed nothing out of the
ordinary apart from the RF transistor,
which was wrapped in black insulation tape. Unwrapping the transistor
revealed that it was not an OC171 but
an equivalent in a different package
that had been substituted at some
stage in the set’s life. I got rid of the
insulation tape and slipped some neat-
With everything appearing to be in
order, I connected a 9V supply to the
set and switched it on. The receiver
immediately began operating which
was a pleasant surprise. I left it operating for an hour or so and it happily
continued playing with no fuss.
It was now time to check and adjust
the alignment if necessary. First, I
checked the IF alignment and found it
to be very slightly out. Unfortunately,
I had trouble adjusting one core as
a previous owner (not the current
owner) had used beeswax to “lock”
it in place.
Aligning the three tuned bands also
proved to be less than straightforward.
The problem here is that the dial scale
and the front and back covers of the
set must be removed to gain access to
the tuning adjustments.
That meant that I couldn’t align the
set by tuning to various stations and
adjusting it so that the dial markings
correctly coincided with the pointer.
Instead, I had to rely on the tune-up
information which specifies the frequencies tuned with the gangs closed
and fully open.
Fortunately, this proved to be fairly
satisfactory and the calibrations were
near enough for all practical purposes.
However, I’m quite sure that with a bit
more work, Ferris could have designed
the cabinet so that the dial-scale could
have remained in-situ while the alignment adjustments were carried out.
The next step was to align the broadcast band on the car radio setting of
the band-change switch. This went
smoothly but because I wasn’t using
a car radio antenna, trimmer TR1 will
probably require further adjustment
when the set is actually tested in a
car. The oscillator adjustments were
accurate enough on all bands, so these
were left untouched.
The 2-6MHz band also tuned up
easily, as did the 6-18MHz band. However, I had to be careful not to peak
the image signal rather than the correct signal on the 6-18MHz band, as
image rejection is poor at the top end
of this band. In fact, this is a common
problem with most sets using a 455kHz
IF amplifier.
As before, a few of the coil cores
were partially sealed with wax but by
picking some of it out, I was eventually
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able to adjust all the coils. The alignment techniques used were covered
in my articles for December 2002 and
January-February 2003.
The final step in the alignment involves adjusting the loopstick tuned
circuit. To gain access to the loopstick
antenna, it is necessary to first lift
the ends of the Ferris name strip on
the handle and then remove the two
screws at its ends. That done, you then
pull the two sections apart to reveal
the loopstick.
Care must be taken here, as it’s all
too easy for the loopstick to fall out
of the handle and break. To adjust it,
it is necessary to keep it in the same
position as it would normally occupy
and slide one of the two coils along the
rod for best performance at the lowfrequency end of the broadcast band.
It tuned up quite well but when I
moved to the high-frequency end of
the band, I was unable to peak the
circuit correctly. Initially, I tried placing additional fixed capacitors across
the trimmer capacitor but to no avail.
The circuit was definitely not peaking
because when I brought my hand near
the loopstick (which added capacitance across the coil) the performance
improved.
Wiring error
There was nothing obviously wrong,
as the soldered connections and
switch contacts were in good order.
I then looked to see if anything was
wrong with the wiring and it didn’t
take long to discover that TR4 was
wired to the top contact of the switch
going to C3 rather than to the bottom
of L4. I rewired TR4 to the correct
position in the circuit and the tuning
adjustments then peaked, just as they
should.
Next, I tried adjusting trimpot R3 to
see what effect it had and found that
it adjusted the receiver’s sensitivity.
If I adjusted it too far one way, the
set would oscillate but the set works
quite well with it adjusted just below
the point of oscillation.
Further tests showed that the dial
drive is quite positive in its action with
no discernible backlash, even when
Photo Gallery: Astor “Mickey Mouse”
The Astor Mickey came in a very compact cabinet and was one of the earliest
Australian bakelite radios, being a modified version of an American receiver.
In fact, Astor used American circuits for some years, often changing parts
to less than optimum values to save a few pennies.
Early Australian Mickey radios had the name “Mickey Mouse” and a drawing
of Mickey on the rear – without an agreement! Astor forgot to tell Disney
and Walt Disney was not amused. Legal action resulted in the name being
altered to just plain “Mickey”, no doubt with Astor pleased to still get some
mileage from all their previous advertising.
The receiver was a great performer, considering the component limitations
at the time. The valve line-up varied through the model’s life but typically
included a 5Z4 rectifier, a 25A6 audio output stage and 6Q7, 6K7 and 6A8
valves for the RF and IF stages. Photo supplied by the Historical Radio
Society of Australia Inc (HRSA), PO Box 2283, Mt Waverley, Vic 3149. www.
hrsa.net.au
tuned to around 17MHz.
I ran the set off a small regulated
power supply for all my tests. In
practice, the set is designed to run off
a 286 battery but these are no longer
available. However, WES Components
have a 276P battery which should be
suitable. Battery packs made up of six
‘AA’ cells or of six ‘C’ cells will also
easily fit in the battery compartment
and it may even be possible to install
packs with six ‘D’ cells.
Note, however, that it will be necessary to protect some parts in the set
when fitting these replacement batteries. This can be done using pieces
of corrugated cardboard around the
battery compartment to prevent battery movement.
Summary
The Ferris 174 is one set that lived
up to its advertising claims. In fact,
I liked it so much that I eventually
obtained one for myself.
In summary, this is an excellent
receiver that has everything a listener
SC
might want except an FM band.
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May 2008 91
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