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SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.21, No.10; October 2008
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
10 CleverScope CS328A USB Dual-Channel 100MHz Scope
Purr-fect: Picaxe-08M 433MHz
Data Transceiver – Page 14.
14 Picaxe-08M 433MHz Data Transceiver
USB Clock With
LCD Readout –
Page 18.
This USB oscilloscope provides a large range of functions, including data
logging. An optional signal generator is also available – by Mauro Grassi
Purr-fect: the HopeRF 433MHz Transceiver Module & the Picaxe-08M are a
marriage made in heaven – by Stan Swan
84 Exposing PC Boards In A Modified Microwave Oven
Here’s a novel approach to exposing photo PC boards – cook ’em in a
modified microwave – by Graeme Rixon
94 Cent-a-meter Owl: Watching Your Power Consumption
Electricity rates are on the rise, so it’s important to keep tabs on your power
consumption. The Cent-a-meter Owl will keep you power wise – by Stan Swan
Pro jects To Build
18 USB Clock With LCD Readout, Pt.1
It connects to your PC’s USB port and synchronises to your PC and ultimately
to an internet time server for accurate time keeping – by Mauro Grassi
30 Digital RF Level & Power Meter
Digital
RF Level
& Power
Meter –
Page 30.
Want to measure small RF signals? This easy-to-build unit measures signals
from below 50kHz to above 500MHz, indicates the signal level in volts & dBV
and shows the power level in both milliwatts & dBm – by Jim Rowe
62 Versatile Special Function Timer
This multi-purpose timer operates from a 12V supply and offers accurate
timing periods ranging from 0.1s to 16.5 minutes – by John Clarke
68 Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2
Pt.2 this month has the full construction details for our new high-performance
train controller. We also describe how the controls work – by John Clarke
Special Columns
44 Serviceman’s Log
Watch Out For Mura Faults On LCD Panels – by the TV Serviceman
57 Circuit Notebook
(1) Tester For Ultrasonic Devices; (2) USB-Controlled Desk Lamp; (3) Tacho
Interface For Diesel Motors; (4) Smart Pool Pump Controller; (5) Picaxe-Based
Mosfet Tester
88 Vintage Radio
The AWA Radiola 653P AC/Battery Portable – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
3 Mailbag
43 Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
82 Product Showcase
97 Ask Silicon Chip
101 Market Centre
Versatile Special
Function Timer – Page 62.
October 2008 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Mauro Grassi, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Smart power meters will
jack up your electricity bill!
How many people have heard about the new “smart”
power meters which are due to start being rolled out in
Sydney and no doubt, other state capitals, very soon?
Smart power meters sound like a good idea but what
do they do? In fact, they have an inbuilt timer and the
ability to charge different electricity tariffs, depending
on the time of day. The idea is that they will charge more
for electricity in peak periods and less in off-peak times.
That sounds good, doesn’t it? After all, the electricity grid presently comes close
to being overloaded in the summer months and any measures to reduce demand
must be regarded as worthwhile, mustn’t they? You might be silently nodding
but wait until you read how much it will cost you.
In Sydney, there will be three residential tariffs, called PowerSmart Home: (1)
Peak, from 2PM to 8PM on working weekdays; (2) Shoulder, from 7AM to 2PM
and 8PM to 10PM on working weekdays and 7AM to 10PM on weekends and
public holidays and (3) Off-peak, all other times. So far that seems reasonable,
but here is the shocker: the Peak rate will be 30.25 cents per kilowatt-hour. That
is more than double the present Sydney residential rate (from Energy Australia)
of 13.97 cents per kilowatt-hour (for the first 1750kWh) which has only just
increased by 8.5%!
The Shoulder tariff will be 10.89 cents per kilowatt-hour and the off-peak rate
will be 6.05 cents per kilowatt-hour, a little more than the present off-peak hot
water rate (Off Peak 1). All these prices include GST.
It is not clear whether separately metered off-peak hot-water systems will be
all lumped into the one PowerSmart Home tariff or not. I suspect they will be,
so charges for hot water will go up correspondingly, depending on when the hot
water systems are turned on by the Zellweiger control tones (by remote control,
of course).
So what are the PowerSmart Home tariffs likely to mean for the typical household? Remember that the Peak tariff period of 2PM to 8PM, in most households, is
when most people cook and eat the evening meal, watch TV (in an air-conditioned
living room), use the computer and so on. You don’t have much choice about
this, do you?
Just as an exercise, I decided to calculate the effect of the new tariffs on my own
most recent electricity bill, for the period from 24/05/08 to 26/08/08. The total
bill was $308.78 which is probably on the low side for a household of three adults
during winter. I estimated that 60% of our power consumption would be in the
peak period, 30% in the shoulder period and 10% in the off-peak period. I also
assumed that my present charges for off-peak hot water would be same although
they are actually likely to increase. Apart from off-peak hot-water consumption,
the power component of the bill was for 1674kWh.
After crunching the numbers, my electricity bill would increase from $308.78
to $443.58, an increase of 43%! And that’s for a pretty modest electricity consumption.
Living as we do in one of the mildest parts of Sydney, we do not have an airconditioner. Nor do we have a power-hungry large-screen plasma TV or a swimming
pool with its power-hungry pump. Or a large two-door fridge with an ice-maker.
Or a spa. Or a lot of wasteful 12V halogen downlights. Thank goodness for that!
Make no mistake: when people realise just how punishing these new tariffs are,
they will be outraged. And they will be forced to change their power consumption
habits. But people on low incomes who are already very careful in everything
they do will find it tough.
The power authorities and the politicians have kept pretty quiet about this,
haven’t they? I wonder why? I wonder if it has anything to do with the attempt
to sell off the electricity distributors in New South Wales?
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Australia’s first production
electric vehicle
I would like to correct your comments regarding the electric bike in the
May 2008 edition. In 1979, a company
called “Silent Power” built Australia’s
first production electric vehicle.
They were fully compliant road
registered in both NSW and Qld. A
total of 12 were produced and sold
to various authorities for evaluation.
Only one was ever sold to the public,
to a person on the Gold Coast.
They were based on a Suzuki Carry
Van and ran on 96V with 190Ah batteries. The range was 80km and top
speed was 80km/h.
Kevin Hill,
Kurnell, NSW.
Prius is highly
fuel-efficient
There seems to be a misconception
in the community that the Prius and
other hybrids are only fuel-efficient
on short trips, such as around town.
Nothing could be further from the case.
Paul Smith of Port Macquarie in
his letter headed “Comment on Prius
Battery Life” (SILICON CHIP, May 2008)
suggests that “the extra weight of the
Prius [because of its battery] means
that when it is used for any purpose
other than city driving, it will not
achieve better mileage than many
conventional petrol vehicles”.
Having owned and driven a Prius
since August 2005 and kept a record
of my fuel consumption, I can assure
him that he is mistaken. Around
Sydney my car achieves between
siliconchip.com.au
5.2 and 5.6l/100km but out on the
open road fuel economy improves
considerably.
On the run from Sydney to Port
Macquarie, a journey I take frequently,
my Prius achieves 4.6-4.7l/100km
and from Port Macquarie to Lismore
it gets even better, between 4.5 and
4.6l/100km. That is travelling at or
just below the legal speed limit in each
case. I haven’t come across any other
petrol-engined car of equivalent size
or weight that can get anywhere near
those figures; most use 50% to 100%
more fuel.
The Prius computer manages the
battery level brilliantly. I have rarely
seen the battery full and never empty.
It balances the energy source so that
when the battery is approaching full
it makes the electric motor do more
work and the engine less, and vice
versa when the battery gets low.
So far my fuel consumption has
been remarkably consistent which
suggests that the battery, after three
years, is still in excellent condition
and showing no sign of ageing. No
doubt the new model Prius battery has
an even greater capacity and longer
life than mine.
Hugh Buckle,
East Ryde, NSW.
Flashing problems with
compact fluorescents
Now that your magazine has dared
to enter the sacred ground of the Australian licensed electrician I thought
some of your readers would be interested in the following phenomenon.
As a grumpy old electrician, I was
intrigued by the strange behaviour of
these new high-efficiency light bulbs
installed in my home. Having installed
one in our bedroom, we found it quite
disconcerting to have the light giving
off a flash of light every 15 seconds,
(quite a good flash too, similar to a
small camera flash.)
Next day, after normal checks for
leakage across the switch and light
socket and finding no fault, I came to
the following conclusion. The 15W
lamp being a fluorescent type uses
what could be described as a pulse
mode power supply, powered from
a capacitor kept charged via a bridge
rectifier from the mains, all contained
in the lamp base.
I surmised that the leakage was
capacitive, between the Active and
return switch wires. In this instance,
Active and Neutral supply came directly to the light socket; the Active
using the loop terminal then to the
switch and back to the light via a
switching pair.
This pair was sufficiently long as to
act as a small capacitor and allow the
rectifier to charge the CFL’s internal
capacitor slowly until enough voltage
was available to fire the light which
then immediately discharges the capacitor and so the cycle repeats.
Testing the theory on the workbench, I found that the light could
be made to flash repeatedly, several
flashes per second by placing a small
capacitor (0.1mF) across the switch
with the switch in the off position.
The same affect occurred with a long
October 2008 3
The best way to
back-up a computer
Poor Serviceman! Reading his tale
of woe of computer corruption in
the July 2008 issue reminds me of
my own experience. I had a very refined system running, with multiple
applications and many tweaks and
service packs for them, numerous
preference settings for Windows,
as well as little tricks of my own,
such as an exclusion dictionary for
Word that pulls up oddments such as
“exit” when I mean to type “excite”.
There were also lots of Visual Basic
6 (the real Visual Basic) applications
such as my company accounts and
countless other things (my desktop
is just about full!).
It all took years to do. Then one
day I (that is to say, my computer)
caught a virus. I chose to clean off
the disk and reload everything from
scratch. Although I had written an
11-page manual to expedite this very
task, the whole process took about
length of twin cable, open-ended but
across the open switch terminals. So
we have now reverted to the original
60W incandescent lamp.
Still dealing with these new lights,
they can also play tricks with wireless door chimes if mounted in close
proximity, especially when starting
up from cold – we were blaming the
neighbour’s kids!
Wilf Hodges,
Oatlands, Tas.
Comment: you are absolutely correct in your analysis that the wiring
capacitance causes the flashing. We
have covered this topic some time
ago. The suggested cure is to connect
a small capacitor across the socket
for the CFL. Depending on how much
wiring is involved, you may have to
use a value of between .01mF (10nF)
and 0.1mF (100nF) 250VAC class X2.
Stop the gripes
Hi to everyone at SILICON CHIP.
You guys do a great job and we (your
readers) really do appreciate all the
work you guys put into the magazine.
I know it may sometimes seem that
you are not appreciated, especially
after some of the gripes I’ve seen in
the Mailbag pages.
4 Silicon Chip
three weeks which I really couldn’t
spare from my busy days. So when
it was over, I bought an imaging program and simply saved an image of
the whole lot on a very inexpensive
external (USB) hard disk. This took
much less than an hour and a trial
restore I ran took 1.5 hours while
we were out walking on the beach.
So that’s my basic set-up. If I ever
have the problem again I may lose
some very recent information but at
least I can restore my basic system
very quickly. And of course, I can
always save successive images.
And talking of hard disks, it is a
constant amazement to me how far
we have progressed in a few years.
My first hard disk was 8Mb and cost
$9,999. Surely 8Mb would be more
than enough for a lifetime (or so I
thought then)! The external drive
I just bought for my backup image
was 240Gb and cost $110.
Alan Ford,
Salamander Bay, NSW.
showroom a few weeks back, even
though I fully intended to purchase
the TV).
SILICON CHIP is an Aladdin’s Cave
of information and I for one think that
equipment reviews, new technology
articles and relevant current affairs
are very important.
The current debate on electric vehicles is very interesting and the bottom
line is this: an answer to the fossil fuel
problem has to be found unless we all
go back to riding horses and making
candles.
SILICON CHIP has to cater for a wide
range of readers, from professionals
to hobbyists. As the only dedicated
electronics magazine currently available in Australia, that is a hard slot
to fill and keeping everyone happy is
simply not possible.
I for one will continue to subscribe
to what I (and a great many others) believe is a complete, reader-orientated
publication.
Dave Sargent,
Howard, Qld.
To be honest, those readers who
write comments like “stop using imperial measurements in the magazine or
I will stop buying it” are idiots!
We all deal with Imperial measurements everyday; even tyres use these
measurements (most rim sizes are
in inches – 155 x 13 means 155mm
nominal inflated section width and a
13-inch rim) so does that mean those
people will stop buying tyres?
The people who also say “stop putting equipment reviews in the magazine” should also pull their heads in.
This is an industry-level publication
and in some areas, SILICON CHIP sets
the standards for many areas of the
electronics industry. The equipment
reviews are a very important part of
those standards. If I am going to spend
$10,000 or more on a piece of workshop or test equipment, I want to know
what it can do, what it cannot do and
how easy it is to operate, upgrade and
what accessories are available.
Most suppliers will not “loan” a
$14K piece of equipment to a prospective buyer for a road test. Even most
electronics suppliers do not allow
tampering with the equipment on
display (I was asked not to “play” with
a plasma TV in a national supplier’s
Refrigerator
schematic wanted
I was hoping that someone might
be able to help me find the schematic
for the electronic temperature control of a Whirlpool model WR127S
refrigerator.
There is a wiring diagram on the
back of the fridge but no circuit for the
electronics. This is a reasonably new
unit but I am running it from a solar
electric system and would like to investigate the possibility of modifying
the controls so that the inverter does
not have to run 24 hours a day.
If anyone has any info on this or
has completed a similar modification
I would love know.
David Robson,
854 Monkey Gully Road,
Goughs Bay, Vic 3723.
Some rechargeables
have low capacity
I thought I’d share my experience
with “MP” brand rechargeable batteries. These batteries are commonly
available via eBay and local computer
fairs and are packaged in a reasonably
professional blister pack complete with
an insert that is mostly free of the grammatical horrors that often accompany
siliconchip.com.au
S-VHS recorders can cope
with Teletext sub-titles
The June 2008 “Ask SILICON CHIP”
had an item on “How To Record
Teletext Sub-titles”. In the answer,
Alan Hughes said that “no videocassette machine is capable of recording
teletext subtitles in their undecoded
form”. That is NOT correct.
Although normal VHS recorders
cannot, S-VHS (Super-VHS) recorders can easily record all the undecoded teletext information along
with the picture (all 999 pages, not
just the subtitles). My JVC HR-DVS1
recorder can even record all the teletext data perfectly when recording
S-VHS in long-play (LP) mode.
The reason is, of course, that
S-VHS recorders DO have a full
5MHz bandwidth. You should be
able to buy a secondhand S-VHS
recorder at a bargain price these
days, as everyone is switching over
to digital PVRs.
Geoff Nicholls,
Hamburg, Germany.
We asked Alan Hughes to comment: it is true that it is possible
that an S-VHS recorder has enough
bandwidth to record teletext. I did
not include S-VHS because these
recorders were sold in Australia
only in very small numbers. This is
because they had a premium price,
came on the market towards the end
of the VHS era, and TVs with S-video
inputs were rare. This situation may
be different in Germany.
The age of most of these recorders
will generally mean that the video
heads are likely to be worn by now.
Chinese-made products.
The claimed capacity is 2500mAh
and of course, I didn’t expect them
to come in at anywhere near that rating. For comparison, I have a set of
2500mAh Energizer cells and they
weigh around 29g each. The MP cells
weigh 21g. However, what I didn’t
quite expect was an actual capacity
of well under 300mAh, and that’s being generous, with a constant 200mA
load.
When used in more realistic scenarios, these cells don’t seem to have
a capacity of more than a few hundred
mAh. Basically, they’re not worth
siliconchip.com.au
This reduces the reliability of the
teletext signal. It is also becoming
difficult to buy blank VHS video
tapes.
A further complication now is that
the S-VHS or VHS video recorder
will have to be fed with a set-top
box, as the shutdown of analog will
start at the end of 2009 in Australia.
Using a set-top box as a program
source also has the disadvantage of
not being able to be used to control
channel selection & channel change,
using the recorder’s timer. An SVHS recorder cannot record the HD
programs which are not simulcast
on analog.
A Personal Video Recorder or a
set-top box has to be purchased before the end of next year. The set-top
box’s composite output, (with visible
subtitling) can be recorded on VHS
tape, however once recorded the
subtitles cannot be removed.
A Personal Video Recorder can be
programmed to record the programs
when required and will change
channels, along with recording two
programs simultaneously. PVRs
can record the digital signal including the subtitling. On replay, you
can select if you wish to view the
subtitling or not. This arrangement
will result in wide screen images of
better quality (some video recorders
will cut the edges off a widescreen
image to make the image narrow
screen (4:3)). An added advantage
is that High Definition signals are
available which are of much higher
quality than is available from an SVHS recorder. Alan Hughes.
the effort of charging them. The real
kicker is the claim that the batteries
can “protect the environment [sic]”,
given that they will end up in landfill
shortly after being opened.
Ben Low,
Wollongong, NSW.
Planet Jupiter Receiver
is worthwhile
It was wonderful to see the “Jupiter
Radio Receiver” project in the August
2008 issue of SILICON CHIP. This is indeed a fascinating area of shortwave
listening. Using my own amateur radio
gear, I have heard the decametric noise
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
October 2008 5
FRONT PANELS
& ENCLOSURES
Customized front panels can
be easily designed with
our free software
Front Panel Designer
• Cost-effective prototypes
and production runs
• Wide range of materials or
customization of provided
material
• Automatic price calculation
• Fabrication in 1, 3 or 7 days
Sample price:
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www.frontpanelexpress.com
Electric cars could have
add-on battery packs
The problem with electric cars is
the weight, bulk and cost of enough
batteries to get enough range for a
wide range of use. You either have
to always carry around far more
batteries than you usually need, or
like Chevrolet’s Volta or the plug-in
hybrid Prius, carry the weight of
a petrol/diesel/LPG motor that on
most common trips won’t need to
start.
The answer is to design the car
with only enough batteries to do
most day-to-day trips, maybe 100km,
and add extra range on the occasions
when you need it. You could put
more batteries or a motor-generator
in a trailer and hitch it up when
you need to take a longer trip. It
would cut the weight of electric
cars. It would cut the size because
the extra baggage space that longer
trips require could be achieved with
the trailer.
It would also cut the major component of electric car running costs, ie,
battery replacement. It would allow
easy recovery of electric cars that
from Jupiter on several occasions.
A couple of points: it is probably
best to listen when the Earth’s own
ionosphere is “dead”, such as during coronal mass ejections, etc, as
although such solar activity messes
up ionospheric propagation around
the Earth, this sort of situation makes
it easier to hear the decametric noise
from Jupiter. The Earth’s ionosphere
is more transparent (offers less attenuation) to signals coming from outer
space in the 20MHz range.
However, the balun diagram made
me smile, as the diagram shown
is not really a balun, more like a
conventional transformer for power
frequencies. This note shows the sort
of balun used for this kind of application, a 1:1 current mode or “choke”
balun: http://users.catchnet.com.
au/~rjandusimports/balun_winding.
html
Felix Scerri, VK4FUG,
Ingham, Qld.
Comment: in essence, the only difference between the balun we show on
page 40 of the August 2008 issue and
6 Silicon Chip
had run out of charge on the road.
Just tow a trailer out, plug it on the
back and drive home. If they were
standardised, they could be shared
between multiple electric cars in the
family or company. You wouldn’t
even need to buy/own your own
battery or charger trailer if they were
standardised. They could be rented
and swapped at stations on the
outskirts of cities and every couple
of hundred kilometres down main
roads. It would allow electric cars
to be viable with currently available
low-cost battery technology.
Oh, yes, and it could also be used
as a trailer.
Gordon Drennan,
Burton, SA.
Comment: interesting idea, Gordon.
In fact, it probably would not be hard
to modify an existing petrol generator, presently sold for emergency
240VAC power, to do the job. Add a
fuel tank and it would not be a big
installation job on a trailer. Still, if
you have a 1.5-tonne car, the necessary petrol generator would need a
large power output in order to drive
the car when used by itself.
those referred to in your URL is that the
latter use a bifilar winding. Our design
is correctly termed a balun.
More projects should
be available as kits
I am wondering what the criteria is
for projects that are engineered and
published in SILICON CHIP magazine
to become a kit available through the
common electronic stores for people
to build?
I ask because there are two projects
that I am interested in: the “GPS-Based
Frequency Reference” published in
March 2007 and now the most recent
“Planet Jupiter Receiver”, both by
Jim Rowe. Why are such interesting
projects that obviously involved a
considerable amount of time spent in
designing and prototyping not available as kits? It must be disappointing
not seeing projects turn into kits. Why
can’t SILICON CHIP organise this?
Clint Jeffrey, VK3CSJ,
via email.
Comment: it is disappointing when
projects do not become available as
siliconchip.com.au
In your editorial in the August 2008 issue, I think you
have confused VIR with TRS. TRS, or “tough rubber
sheath” cable, came in after VIR and is often in poor
condition. It was certainly around in WW2.
It seems to fail in two ways: either the rubber
siliconchip.com.au
+ + + ++
ty
Quali many –
r
e
nG
i
G
Made by HAME
e
d
a
M
+ ++ + + + + +
+
Vulcanised India-rubber wire
+ ++ + + + + + +
++
+ +
LCR-Bridge
HM8118
The bridge to success.
Hopefully I’m not dragging this topic out too long
but I would just like to share my views on this and to
consider some of the current terminologies regarding
electric motors generally.
First, I think the term “brushless DC motor” is
valid, because when describing a motor as AC or DC,
it refers to the type of power supply that the machine
requires rather than what happens internally within
it. However, I have been thinking that the recent correspondence on all this has highlighted what seems
to be a slight over-sight in the industry. That is, the
electronically commutated motor, as far as I know, does
not appear to have a formalised term to distinguish it
from other machines. I believe that this is something
that should be addressed as I know that some people
confuse these with stepper motors.
As a comparison to other types of electric motors
with standard terminologies that we generally all
know about, the examples are: induction motor (AC
only), synchronous (AC only), universal (AC or DC)
and DC motors – permanent magnet or shunt wound
brush type.
Then there are the electronically-driven ones of
which there appear to be two main types: stepper motor and the electronic commutated type, which tend
to be labelled as “brushless DC”.
Where it can get a bit grey is that in both these
types of motors, if the drive electronics is included
as an integral and necessary part of the machine, both
could be classed as brushless DC. They both require
a DC supply. So, unless I am very wrong with my
observation here and with this type of electric motor
so common now, what about giving it a proper name?
And the most obvious thing would be to call it what
it is : an “Electronic Commutated” motor. Which is a
bit of a mouthful, so an EC motor perhaps?
Grant Saxton,
Cambridge, New Zealand.
++
+ +
++
More on Brushless DC motors
+
++
+ + + + ++
kits but that is the decision of the kitset suppliers,
not us. We provide them with information before
publication but they make their own decisions. And
while we would like them to support every design that
we publish, that is probably not economically viable.
However, there is nothing to stop new players coming into the market to provide this service. We would
be delighted to see new competitors to the existing
suppliers. In the meantime, even though kits are not
available, it should possible to build any project we
describe, as the parts are usually available.
Altronics are making the Jupiter Radio Receiver
available as a kit – Cat. K-1127.
✔ Basic Accuracy 0.05 %
✔ Measurement functions
L, C, R, |Z|, X, |Y|, G, B, D, Q, Θ, Δ, M, N
✔ Test frequencies from 20 Hz to 200 kHz
✔ Up to 12 measurements per second
✔ Parallel and Series Mode
✔ Binning and limits for parts sorting
(optional)
NEW
eration
button op
200 k H z
ne push
Intuitive o
one glance
ameters at
ar
p
t
en
m
re
All measu
n,
, productio
ce in R&D n
n
re
fe
re
o
The new
d educati
service an
✔ Internal programmable voltage
and current bias
HM8118
✔ Transformer parameter measurement
✔ External capacitor bias up to 40 V
✔ Kelvin cable and 4 wire SMD Test
adapter included in delivery
✔ Galvanically isolated USB/RS-232
Interface, optional: IEEE-488
Rohde & Schwarz (Australia) Pty Ltd
Unit 2, 75 Epping Road, North Ryde, NSW 2113
sales<at>rsaus.rohde-schwarz.com
October 2008 7
Mailbag: continued
Do not use 240VAC power
boards for 12V equipment
My ham equipment comprises three items powered from a
12V (SLA) battery. I have found
it impossible to buy, from electronics stores, suitable plugs
and sockets to carry the 12V
power to my equipment.
The attached photo shows
how I have utilised low-cost,
but rugged 240VAC power This is a really BAD idea. Never ever fit
boards, to provide this function. 240VAC mains plugs to low-voltage gear
The 3-pin plugs were $2 each and do not use power boards for anything
and the power board was $4. other than intended purpose.
I have used the Active pins as
the 12V positive and the Neutral
if this was a common practice, it
pins for 12V negative.
would only be a matter of time before
Hope this idea catches on.
someone plugged 12V gear into a
D. J., Tweed Heads, NSW.
240VAC outlet.
Comment: we agree that cheap rugIn short, this is a very bad idea
ged 12V connectors are not readily that could easily result in a fatalavailable but using 3-pin 240VAC ity. While they are not as easy to
mains plugs and a power board is plug in or disconnect, we strongly
just asking for trouble. While it may recommend that you use DC supply
never happen in your household, connectors from a computer.
becomes very brittle or it turns to a
sticky mess. It is the cable with the
black sheath and no earth wire and it
should be replaced.
By contrast, the rubber in VIR is
protected by a waxed cotton coating.
Cotton itself has a proven life of over
500 years when kept in appropriate
conditions. I have seen 70-year old
VIR that has been in appropriate conditions; that is, protected in conduit,
not having been exposed to excessive
heat or any chemical contamination,
and not damaged during installation,
which is in superb condition with the
outer waxed cotton shiny and bright,
and the rubber still flexible.
Age is not necessarily a problem
with cables. There are still 11kV
paper-insulated lead-sheathed cables
in London, which in the right conditions are still in service. The right
conditions in this case are on level or
slightly sloping ground, otherwise the
oil in the paper drains to the low point,
and away from DC railways. The stray
ground currents from the DC railways
cause the lead sheath to pit.
Graham Shepherd,
New Town, Tas.
Comment: since the wiring in most
old homes has been subjected to far
less than ideal conditions, it should
all be replaced and upgraded to the
latest standard.
Flexible switching
solution for ceiling fan
I think you may have misunderstood the question concerning flexible
switching for a ceiling fan, from A.F. in
“Ask SILICON CHIP” (June 2008).
If A.F.’s remote-controlled ceiling
fan is like mine, when power is first
applied it does not turn the fan or
light on; the remote must be used to
turn either on. While this is “correct”
if the fan is permanently connected to
the mains, it is a nuisance if connected
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8 Silicon Chip
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via a light switch (as would be the
case if it replaces an existing light) as
it renders the light switch effectively
useless – the switch will turn the light
off but to turn the light back on, first
the light switch must be turned on and
then the remote used.
The easy solution is to leave the
light switch permanently on and use
the remote to turn the light on and
off (which is why they provide a wall
holder for the remote – so you can stick
it on the wall next to the switch!). This
is a nuisance, as you’re bound to flip
the light switch first and only reach
for the remote when nothing happens!
It’s also inconvenient if you want the
fan controlled from somewhere other
than near the light switch.
A better solution, which I used, is
to invert the light-switching signal
within the controller. Then the light
comes on when the power is applied,
so the light switch works without
requiring the remote. Provided the
light switch is on, the remote functions
perfectly normally, with full control of
light and fan.
I inverted the light signal using a
4011 quad NAND gate (although any
inverting gate could be used), paralleling all inputs and outputs. The
chip leads were trimmed as short as
possible, inputs and outputs parallel
ed via short lengths of wire, and four
flying leads attached (power, ground,
in & out). The chip was then covered
in two layers of heatshrink tube. It
was connected in series with the
controller’s light output by lifting
one end of a transistor’s base resistor
and interposing it in-between. Power
was taken from the power pins on
the controller chip (found by careful
inspection). The chip, in its heatshrink
‘cocoon’, was tucked in a corner of the
controller case.
This has been operating perfectly for
two years, with the light exclusively
switched using the light switch. As the
fan is in my bedroom, the remote is by
the bedside table so I can easily adjust
the fan during the night. Although you
do have to remember to leave the light
switch on if you think you’ll want the
fan during the night! Just remember
to turn the light off using the remote.
Apart from the convenience, another advantage is that when the
light switch is off, the fan is really off
siliconchip.com.au
HOPERF
Digital Sensors
RF IC & Modules
Semiconductor
Devices
SAW Devices
Distributed in Australia by
Microzed Computers Pty. Limited
Phone: 1300 735 420 Fax: 1300 735 421
www.microzed.com.au
– no standby power consumption, no
chance of fire, no chance of interference turning it on.
Adam Webb,
Adelaide, SA.
Transformer query
for frequency indicator
I found your “Frequency Indicator
For Generating equipment” in the
May 2008 issue very interesting and
informative. However, I noticed one
minor discrepancy in the circuit.
The power supply uses a 9V transformer and a 7809 voltage regulator.
According to the data sheet, the input
voltage for the 78XX series regulators
must be (at least) 3V greater than the
output voltage. In my opinion, a 12V
100mA rated transformer will be a
good choice.
T. K. Hareendran,
Kerala, India.
Comment: a typical 9V transformer
will deliver 10 or 11VAC when lightly
loaded, as this 100mA-rated transformer will be. When rectified by
diode D1 and filtered, the resulting
DC input to the 7809 regulator can be
expected to be at least 14V; more than
adequate for the regulator to work as
SC
specified.
October 2008 9
CleverScope
CS328A
USB dual channel
100MHz mixed
signal oscilloscope
Hooked up to a desktop or laptop computer, this USB oscilloscope and
its supplied PC software provide a large range of functions, including
data logging. With the optional signal generator you can also test
audio equipment, measure THD and do frequency sweeps.
C
LEVERSCOPE is the New Zealand-based company
behind the CS328A, a dual channel 100MHz
mixed signal USB oscilloscope with two analog
and eight digital input channels. With optional
accessories two units can be linked to double that number
of channels.
20mV/div to 20V/div (using a x1 probe). The vertical resolution of the digitising system is 10 bits for the basic model
and you can increase this to 12 or 14 bits by purchasing an
additional sampler board.
Unlike some USB oscilloscopes, this one has a deep
memory of 4Mpts (Million Points) for the basic model.
Main specifications
Front and rear panel connections
The CleverScope CS328A provides two analog channels
The front panel of the CS328A comprises three BNC
and eight digital channels (the corresponding analog only connectors (two for the analog channels and one for the
model is the CS320A). Its analog bandwidth is 100MHz external trigger), two RJ45 sockets (for connecting the eight
(measured at the -3dB point), while the digital sampling digital inputs), two probe compensation terminals and two
rate is 100MS/s (millions of samples per second). There LEDs, green for power and red to indicate triggering.
is a hardware 25MHz anti-aliasing filter
On the back, there is the USB port, a
for better spectrum analysis.
BNC connector for the signal generator
The vertical sensitivity ranges from Review by Mauro Grassi output and the power input jack and
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
At left: the CS328A along with its two analog and two digital
“probes”. On the laptop screen is the supplied PC software used
to control the USB ’scope. A sinusoidal wave is shown in the
scope graph window while smaller windows are shown around
it. All controls stem from the control panel shown at top right.
Windows can be shown or hidden from the control panel.
an RS422 port.
The optional RS422 link cable forms a 100 Mbit/s communication link between the two. When you connect the
two CleverScope CS328As together in this way, you effectively have a four channel analog scope with 16 digital
inputs and a single user interface.
Probes and accessories
The CS328A is supplied with two switchable (x1, x10)
100MHz analog probes. Also included are adaptors that
connect to the two front panel RJ45 jacks allowing you to
connect up to eight (two lots of 4) digital inputs.
The CS328A is controlled using the supplied PC software for Windows. The software is controlled from the
main window and secondary windows become visible as
needed. Like other oscilloscopes, the CS328A has an “Auto
Set” button, which will analyse the signals and choose
the vertical and timebase settings for displaying them on
your PC screen.
The signal window also has small buttons, whose function is selected by hovering over them with a mouse. These
allow you to either zoom in or out or scale the window to
fit the signal.
Triggering and acquisition modes
Each analog channel can be AC or DC-coupled and the
triggering supports high and low frequency rejection for
greater noise immunity. Although this oscilloscope has
an operating bandwidth of 100MHz, as is usual with any
wideband digital it is often better to limit the bandwidth
to get a better display – with less noise. In this case you
Fig.1: the scope graph window showing the digital
channels. The triggering is set to a rising edge on digital
channel 1. A low frequency square wave is shown, with
the decoded logic values. The voltage threshold for the
logic decoding can be defined.
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications at a glance:
Analog input channels: ....2
Digital input channels:...... 8
Analog bandwidth:............DC to 100M
Hz
Sampling rate:..................100MS/s simu
ltaneous on both channels
Memory depth:.................4Mpts
.........................................(8Mpts with
optional memory upgrade)
Vertical sensitivity: ...........20mV/div
Vertical resolution: ...........10, 12* or
14 bits*
Size:..................................153 x 195
x 35mm
(*depends on optional module)
can switch to 20MHz band limiting.
Triggering on a preset pattern on the digital channels is
also possible.
To do this, you select a state for each of the
eight digital channels. The signals must match the
pattern for the trigger to occur. For example, you
can trigger on a rising or falling edge, or an absolute high
or low level of for that channel.
There are two trigger sources. The primary one is an edge
trigger., while the secondary trigger allows you to select the
number of times that the primary trigger must occur for the
secondary trigger to be flagged, among other modes. You
can then select the trigger source among either.
The acquisition modes include peak detect (for capturing fast glitches) and repetitive waveform modes. The
latter mode works by assuming that the signal is periodic
and filling in subsequent cycles. This mode substantially
increases the resolution of periodic waveforms which may
be important for high frequency signals.
Optional signal generator
Although it is not installed as standard, the CS328A can
be enhanced with a signal generator module. This works
at up to 10MHz and you can select sine, triangular and
square wave modes. You can also select a sweep mode
Fig.2: a relatively high frequency triangular wave
shown on the scope graph using the repetitive waveform
acquisition mode. The triangular wave is at a frequency
around 2MHz and was generated using the optional signal
generator module of the CS328A.
October 2008 11
Fig.3: the maths equation builder window. We have
selected to apply the equation X2-X3 to a sinusoidal wave.
The result is shown in the maths graph window. The maths
graph window is a separate window that can display up to
eight user-defined maths traces.
Fig.4: the Fourier Transform window is shown. The input
is a low frequency waveform at around 20kHz. The small
window at the top left corner inside the spectrum graph
window shows information about the signals. You can
choose a log plot rather than a linear one too.
which allows you to measure the frequency response of a
filter, for example.
seen in a separate “Signal Info” window.
The range of available measurements includes the
RMS and peak-to-peak voltage, as well as maximum
and minimum levels. The THD of the signal can also be
measured; very useful for audio work.
Equation builder and signal analysis
The MATHs functions of the software are quite powerful.
It lets you define up to eight different expressions which
are displayed in a separate window. Apart from the usual
arithmetic functions, you can use functions to build up
more complex expressions. For example, you can use
trigonometric functions and integration.
Many different modes for the Fourier Transform are
implemented and can be displayed in a separate window.
There is also a power spectrum mode for the Fourier
Transform. This lets you see the power of your signal in
terms of the equivalent power of a periodic signal at the
signal’s fundamental frequency (ie, the first harmonic).
The software allows you to view information about the
analog channels in a separate window. The fundamental
frequency as well as the vital statistics of the signal can be
Exporting data
Using the CS328A to acquire information about a signal
is easy, since the control software is already running on
your PC. You can copy and paste graph and data tables to
other applications. This is especially useful for writing
reports and presentations. You can also export data files
from the logging window to embed in your spreadsheet.
The software settings can be made permanent, useful
for classrooms because the settings for a lesson can be
preloaded and will be available when the students first
start using the oscilloscope. You can also control the oscilloscope remotely using a LAN connection on your PC, for
more advanced applications.
Front and rear
panels (top and
bottom, respectively) of the
CleverScope
CS328A USB
Oscilloscope.
The two RJ45
sockets at left of
the front panel
are for the digital
inputs; the “Chan
A” and “Chan
B” at right are
the analog. USB
connection is via
the socket on the
rear panel, along
with RS422 link,
signal generator
and power.
12 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the signal information window, with expanded
controls for data logging. This shows logging of the
minimum and maximum voltage levels of the input
signal. The logging rate of 10Hz is shown, as well as the
instantaneous vital statistics of the analog channels.
Other optional accessories
The CS328A can be enhanced with other optional modules. Firstly, you can improve the vertical resolution from
10 bits to 12 and 14 bits using optional sampler boards. You
can also purchase a 5ns delay line to double the sampling
rate to 200MS/s by using both channels simultaneously
for the same signal.
Although the memory depth is large for a USB oscilloscope at 4Mpts, you can even double that by adding extra
memory. And you can also buy more exotic probes than
the ones supplied, including fully isolated probes (handy
for high voltage work) as well as current sensing and differential probes.
Conclusion
The idea behind USB oscilloscopes makes economic
sense, cutting costs by avoiding duplication, especially in
the display, buttons and knobs.
Much of the data analysis can also be left to the power of
your PC, avoiding the need for a powerful DSP or processor. The storage capacity of a common PC far exceeds the
amount of non-volatile memory in standalone oscilloscopes
and the PC can itself be upgraded in the future.
USB oscilloscopes are therefore a very good idea for
entry-level use because they are much more affordable
than stand-alone ones. Clearly, you lose the portability
of a standalone unit that may be crucial if working in the
field. However, with laptops becoming ubiquitous and
almost feather-weight, this disadvantage is fast fading into
irrelevance.
As USB oscilloscopes go, this one is a winner. Its best
features include its deep memory, its relatively high bandwidth and the many features of the included PC software,
which is comprehensive.
The CS328A is available in Australia from Grantronics,
Phone (02) 9896 7150; web www.grantronics.com.au The
price is $1590 plus GST. In New Zealand, it is available
from CleverScope Ltd, Epsom, Auckland. Phone (09) 524
7456. www.cleverscope.com
SC
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 13
by Stan Swan
2nd Generation UHF
Telemetry for the PICAXE
PURR-FECT!
Telemetry (from the Greek tele = remote and metron = measure)
refers to the remote measurement and reporting of information,
typically using wireless links to carry the data. Such technology is
well established in climatic monitoring (especially temperature),
water management, motor sport, security, medicine, defence and
even space – Martian probe style.
W
ireless telemetry (using high
voltage valves) was utilised
even back in grandpa’s era.
Perhaps one of the more exotic installations was the World War II German
automatic weather station “Kurt”, secretly installed on the Canadian coast
by a U-boat in 1943.
Its 150W short-wave transmitter,
powered by an array of nickel-cadmium and dry-cell batteries, produced
14 Silicon Chip
coded signals (derived from weather
sensors) receivable thousands of
kilometres away in Europe. Distant
Atlantic weather conditions could
then be monitored but – fortunately for
Allied shipping – jamming thwarted
the station’s eventual mission!
Modern motor racing telemetry allows trackside engineers to view and
interpret live race data and use it to
rapidly tune their racecar at even-
tual pit stops. When every second
counts, the ability to promptly work
on tele-monitored faults can make for
improved race performance.
Such “mission critical” applications
usually have heavy duty telemetry
budgets but the availability of cheap
data modules in recent years has
allowed UHF wireless data links to
proliferate, with many homes even
now having several quietly at work –
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
SUITABLE ANTENNA
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
I/O
PINS
(CHANNELS)
CON1
DB9
1
6
7
8
9
2
3
22k
4
5
2
1
7
IC1
6
PICAXE-08M
10k
3
TO PC
SERIAL
PORT
4
8
5
0
ANT
HOPERF HM-TR
UHF DATA TRANSCEIVER
ON
+5V
NC
GND
DATA
GND
+5V
typically at 433.920MHz.
As wireless links on the higher
(near microwave) 1.8-2.4GHz bands
are almost line of sight (LOS), many
field telemetry setups in fact prefer low
UHF (300-900MHz) or even lower VHF
(30-300MHz), as this ensures better
signal penetration of vegetation and
buildings.
The popular 434MHz slot, globally reserved for low power (25 mW)
unlicensed Industrial, Scientific and
Medical (ISM) wireless data, increasingly abounds with weird signals
arising from home weather stations,
power meters, car locks, garage door
openers, security systems and wireless doorbells. In many suburbs at
peak times, a UHF scanner tuned to
434MHz can issue sounds akin to an
African dawn chorus!
Although now very cheap, these
consumer devices typically encode the
serial data using ASK (Amplitude Shift
Keying) on/off streaming and may be
prone to interference from neighbouring services.
However, it’s no good complaining
– LIPD (Low Interference Potential
Device) users on this 1.740MHz-wide
(433.050 to 434.790MHz) spectrum
slice have no prior channel rights.
Failing repositioning, superior FSK
(Frequency Shift Keying) encoding
approaches may be needed instead.
FSK data is largely immune to
amplitude-modulated impulse noises
– a major FM broadcast radio benefit,
of course. The crashes and static you
hear on an AM radio station as a thunderstorm approaches (even hundreds
of kilometres away) are virtually nonexistent on an FM radio station.
Fortunately most 434MHz services
are very low power (a few milliwatts)
and of very short range (a few tens of
metres) and all are usually distinc-
ZW-3100 (tx) and ZW-3102 (rx) gave
a good account of themselves, with
ranges to several hundred metres in
open areas.
Although this hardly gave the Bathurst Supercar “tele-techo’s” a scare,
serial data rates in the 300-2400 bps
range readily allowed PICAXE-monitored transducers to be wirelessly read
and remotely recorded. However, such
links were only one way (simplexbroadcast only), with no easy method
to correct corrupted data, although
CRC software evolved to at least detect
possible errors.
For 2-way (½ duplex- 2-way radio
style) another tx/rx pair could have
been added but the resulting cost
1 2 3 4 5 6
1
4.5V
2
330Ω
λ
SC
2008
RED
LED
8
4
1
Picaxe serial encoding – uhf TRANSMITTER
Circuit diagrams for the HopeRF UHF transceiver, powered by a PICAXE
08M. The code for the PICAXE is shown overleaf, while the programming
for the transceiver can be downloaded from the HopeRF website. Note that
there are slightly different connections for the transmitter (above) and the
receiver (below).
SUITABLE ANTENNA
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
I/O
PINS
(CHANNELS)
CON1
DB9
1
6
7
8
9
2
3
4
5
TO PC
SERIAL
PORT
10k
22k
2
1
7
IC1
6
PICAXE-08M
3
4
8
5
0
ANT
HOPERF HM-TR
UHF DATA TRANSCEIVER
ON
+5V
DATA
GND
NC
GND
+5V
The HopeRF module
that has Stan so
excited this month!
Shown here approximately life size, it
operates in the 434MHz “LIPD” band
and mates perfectly with Stan’s other
favourite toy, the PICAXE.
tively encoded to match their sender.
Hence although receiving neighbouring wireless doorbells may occur,
yours can easily be re-coded to use
different data signals, even though
spectrum noise may still decrease
sensitivity (and thus range).
Regular readers may recall the July
2003, December. 2005 and January
2006 SILICON CHIP articles on serial telemetry using cheap 434MHz transmitters (tx) and receivers (rx), controlled
by PICAXE-08Ms.
Cheap 434MHz wireless data units
and PICAXEs are almost made for
each other! Although any of the cheap
modules then on sale could have been
used, it was found the ~$10 Jaycar
1 2 3 4 5 6
1
4.5V
2
330Ω
λ
SC
2008
GREEN
LED
8
4
1
Picaxe serial decoding – uhf RECEIVER
October 2008 15
ANTENNA
ANTENNA
HOPERF
TRANSCEIVER
MODULE
TRANSCEIVER
MODULE
1 2 3 4 5 6
1 2 3 4 5 6
PICAXE08M
330Ω
A
K
22kΩ
5 3 2
PICAXE08M
4.5V
(eg, 3xAA)
(RS232)
330Ω
A
LED
10kΩ
K
TRANSMITTER
LED
22kΩ
5 3 2
4.5V
(eg, 3xAA)
(RS232)
10kΩ
RECEIVER
Protoboard wiring for the transmitter and receiver. Differences in the receiver board are subtle – connection to the
HopeRF module is to pin 2 and LED drive is different. The LEDs are perhaps overkill as the HopeRF module has red &
green SMD LEDS on the modules. There are some differences between these layouts and the photograph shown earlier.
doubling, multiple module mounting
and “push to talk” control software
became daunting.
Given the continuing integration
and refinement of electronic circuitry,
it became apparent that classic 20th
century 434MHz units were well
overdue for enhancement and I for one
have been watching for successors.
Features hankered after included
better use of the 434MHz spectrum,
improved receiver sensitivity and
faster data speeds. We’re in an era
when electronic finesse often comes
with trivial price tags but the only offerings that had arisen were for wellheeled professionals.
It was hence with some anticipatory hand rubbing that the wireless
data products of Chinese firm Hope
Microelectronics (www.hoperf.com)
were greeted!
The firm, based in the mega factory
Pin 6: Enable
Pin 5: Configure
Pin 4: DRX
Pin 3: Ground
Pin 2: DTX
Pin 1: VCC
SMA
Antenna
Socket
Atmel ATMega48
44-pin 20MHz 4kB
8-bit SMD
microcontroller
16 Silicon Chip
city of Shenzhen (nearby to Hong
Kong), produce a broad range of highly
integrated UHF wireless data units at
budget prices.
Some of their offerings blending
both transmitter and receiver into
one package. Such a data transceiver
combination naturally makes for great
convenience and reduced circuit layout and is recommended, since prices
are only slightly more than equivalent
discrete units.
Their six-lead HM-TR especially
appealed, as it promised interferenceimmune FSK, programmable settings
(via an on-board ATMega micro with
32-byte buffer), sensitive reception,
rapid send/receive switch-over, data
status lights and a quality SMA antenna outlet (gold plated!) – all for
not-much-more than a classic 433MHz
tx/rx pair.
Combined with easy serial links to
MAX232
Connection and
construction details
for the HopeRF
HM-TR. Various
pins are connected
depending on whether
it is in transmit, receive
or configuration modes.
our ever faithful PICAXE workhorses,
these “transparent” data units look
just what the doctor ordered.
The units are programmable (using
software downloadable from the HopeRF site) and a simple ~4.5V (3 x AA)
breadboard setup with a repositioned
PICAXE cable allows configuration
tweaking.
Frequencies cover four UHF bands
(315/433/868/915MHz), complying
with US FCC and European ETSI
regulations, although some may be
outside legal ISM slots. Transmitter
power attenuation, receiver bandwidth, frequency fine tuning and the
usual plethora of serial baud rates
and communications protocols can
also be set.
As PICAXE serial works normally
at 2400 bps, 8 data bits, no parity and
1 stop bit (2400,8,N,1) this was also
written to the HopeRF transceiver –
out-of-the-box default settings are at
9600 bps and 434MHz.
When wired for communication, subsequent breadboarding of a
PICAXE-08M-controlled pair – one
transmitting (tx) and the other receiving (rx) – proved very straightforward
indeed.
The unit’s tiny SMD red (transmit)
and green (receive) LEDs indicate tx/
rx status, so the extra LEDs (and dropping resistors) added to the controlling
PICAXEs may not be strictly needed.
However, as their inbuilt 32-byte
buffer needs filling before wireless
data is sent, the extra LEDs confirm
data handling at the PICAXE itself.
As ranges were of keen interest,
siliconchip.com.au
CON1
DB9
1 2 3 4 5 6
1
6
7
8
9
* MODULE ENTERS
CONFIGURATION
MODE WHEN PIN
5 IS PULLED HIGH
(IE, TO +4.5V)
2
4
3
5
TO PC
SERIAL
PORT
ON
+5V
DATA
GND
NC
GND*
ANT
HOPERF HM-TR
UHF DATA TRANSCEIVER
4.5V
CONFIGURATION MODE
To get the HopeRF module into configuration mode,
all you have to do is take pin 5 from low to high.
To program, you can use the same DB9 serial port
connector as used for the PICAXE programming.
simple code (using ASCII “85” for 10101010 strings) was
passed between the pair to allow a distinctive “purr” when
heard via a UHF scanner.
A small piezo across the winking receiver LED will also
give this output, in my case bemusing passers-by who
thought I had a contented cat in my jacket!
Using the supplied 434MHz “rubber ducky” antenna, line
of sight (LOS) links of 0.5-1km proved feasible (the latter
across water), although vegetation and wooden buildings cut
this to about 200 metres. Since the transmitter is only rated
at 5mW and was found pleasingly “clean” on a spectrum
analyzer, this testifies to a sensitive receiver.
The quality SMA sockets allow an external antenna to
be attached, although it’s probably best to use SMA-BNC
adapters (such as Jaycar’s) to utilise more standard connectors.
As even a “cotanga” Yagi will give 6dB gain (enough
for range doubling), simple Yagis at each end should give
a 6dB+6dB = 12dB gain, allowing point to point links of
perhaps several kilometres – four times that of the basic
supplied antenna.
As it’s apparent that the HopeRF HM-TR data transceiver
offerings look worthy of a “2nd generation 434MHz” title
(especially when PICAXE driven), a more demanding
half-duplex data workout will be presented in a follow-up
article. Stay tuned!
Australian suppliers for Hope Electronics are MicroZed
Computers on the NSW Central Coast, phone 1300 735 420
(www.microzed.com.au).
References, links and software are hosted at www.picaxe.
orconhosting.net.nz/hoperf.htm
SC
Transmitting PICAXE code
Receiving PICAXE code
purrtx:
serout 2,n300,(85,85,85,….,85,b1)
pause 500
goto purrtx
purrrx:
serin 2,n300,b1
pulsout 1,200
goto purrrx
Here’s the code you’ll need to get the two modules
talking . . . or at least purring . . . to each other!
siliconchip.com.au
The configuration software (downloadable from www.
hoperf.com) is very simple to use – much esier than some of
the software we’ve used in recent times.
Advantest R41310 Spectrum Analyser display of HopeRF
HM-TR serial (300bps) data transmitter on 434MHz. Note
the “pure” output! 4dBm transmitter and supplied “rubber
duck” antenna was approximately 1m away from a short
pickup wire connected to the SA antenna input. Other UHF
signals visible in the “grass” are from unknown external
sources – a lot of devices use 434MHz!
Range testing near Wellington harbour gave ~1km LOS
with the rubber duck antenna. By attaching a simple Yagi
antenna at both ends, data links over water as far as the
island 5km away should be possible.
October 2008 17
For the advanced
constructor . . .
USB Clock
With LCD Readout
Pt.1: By MAURO GRASSI
This LCD USB Clock connects to your PC’s USB port. It
synchronises its time with your PC – and ultimately an internet
time server – when your PC is on to maintain accurate timekeeping. It can also operate on its own using battery back-up
and has user-selectable display modes.
A
LL RECENT PC OPERATING
systems, including Windows,
provide services for NTP (Network
Time Protocol), a protocol that’s used
to synchronise your PC’s local time
with an internet time server. This USB
Clock in turn synchronises with your
PC’s clock and provided you boot your
PC regularly (and synchronise it to an
internet time server), it will maintain
accurate timekeeping.
18 Silicon Chip
In operation, the USB Clock is powered via the PC’s USB port when the
PC is on. This also charges an internal
NiMH battery. This battery powers
the clock when the PC is off or when
the clock is disconnected from the
USB port.
When the PC is off, the clock’s timekeeping is maintained by a 32.768kHz
watch crystal. This is accurate to
within ±20ppm, giving a timekeeping
accuracy of better than two seconds a
day in stand-alone mode.
Control software
By now, you’ve probably guessed
that the LCD USB Clock is based on
a microcontroller. In this case, we’re
using a PIC18F4550 micro to provide
all the necessary functions.
In addition, a small command-line
program (usbclock.exe) is used to
siliconchip.com.au
change the USB clock’s settings and to
synchronise the clock’s time with your
PC’s clock. This will be described next
month. We’ll even show you how to
set-up your Windows operating system
(using an entry in the Start-up folder)
to automatically synchronise the USB
Clock to the PC’s clock each time the
machine boots.
That way, you can install the software and forget it. In fact, this system
will even take care of daylight saving
time shifts. When your PC automatically adjusts for daylight saving it automatically adjusts the USB clock as
well (when it is next synchronised).
Display modes
This clock doesn’t just tell the time.
Oh no! – that would be far too easy.
Because it’s got a microcontroller, we
can do all sorts of other stuff as well,
such as displaying the time in either
24-hour or 12-hour format, displaying
the date, displaying the charging current or the battery voltage and having
the display scroll.
Basically, there are 12 different
display modes and Table 2 shows the
complete list.
So how do we step through these
different display modes? Well, you
can either do it by repeatedly pressing the front-panel pushbutton switch
(S1) or you can use the usbclock.exe
program.
For example, if you press the
switch once, the backlight comes on.
Press it again and the LCD shows the
day and the month in DD:MM format
(ie, mode 1). Press it again and the
display steps to mode 2 to show the
year and so on.
As stated, there are 11 display
modes in all, the last two bringing
up scrolling displays. Mode 9 scrolls
the time and the date, while mode 10
scrolls the time only.
Prefer to control the clock via your
computer’s keyboard instead? No
problem – just type usbclock.exe -z:X
at a command prompt, where “X” is a
number between 0 and 11, depending
on the mode you want displayed.
Want to display the date? Type
usbclock -z:1. Want to display the
battery charging current? Type usbclock -z:4.
Once the selected mode has been
displayed, the display automatically
reverts to the default display mode
at the end of a preset time-out. This
preset time-out has a default value of
siliconchip.com.au
Main Features
•
Automatically synchronises its time with your PC and by extension, an
internet time server.
•
Internal rechargeable battery to keep the time while disconnected from
the PC.
•
•
•
4-digit LCD with optional dimming LED backlight.
•
•
•
Low-power CMOS design for extended battery life.
All settings are changed by connecting to a PC.
Can display supply voltage and battery charge status, as well as date
and time.
Automatic backlighting mode.
Displays time in either 24-hour or 12-hour format.
30 seconds but this can be changed if
you wish.
Naturally, you can also change the
default display mode if you want. For
example, you might want the LCD to
shows the date (mode 1) by default
instead of the time (mode 0). We’ll talk
more about this in Pt.2 next month.
Backlight display modes
An optional LCD backlight module
allows the display to be read in the
dark. There are three different userselectable modes for this backlight:
(1) Backlight always on mode: in this
mode, the backlight is always on when
the clock is plugged into a USB port.
(2) Automatic mode: the backlight automatically switches on between 6pm
and 6am (ie, between 1800 and 0600
hours), which means that the backlight
automatically switches on at night.
Note: the unit must be connected to
a USB port for this mode to operate.
(3) Pushbutton only mode: in this
mode, the backlight comes on for a
preset time only when the front-panel
pushbutton is pressed. The default
time is five seconds but this can be set
for longer periods if necessary.
When the clock is operating from
battery power, only the third backlighting mode (ie, pushbutton mode) is
available. In addition, the backlighting
function is automatically disabled if
the battery discharges below a preset
voltage. This is done to conserve battery life and maintain timekeeping
when no USB power is available for
extended periods.
The current drain without backlighting is typically below 1mA. This
increases to about 200mA when the
backlight is on at 100% duty cycle.
How it works
Fig.1 shows the complete circuit of
the LCD USB Clock. As can be seen, it
consists of a microcontroller (IC1), an
LCD and a bit of supporting circuitry.
The LCD is driven via two D-type
octal transparent latches (IC2-IC3).
These latches are needed only because
there are not enough I/O pins available
on the microcontroller.
In operation, the microcontroller
loads a 16-bit word into the latches
to drive the segments of the LCD. Just
how the LCD is driven is explained in
some detail later in the article.
Power for the circuit is derived from
the USB port on the computer and is fed
to pin 1 (+V) of a USB Type B socket.
This pin is nominally at +5V although
in practice it can be anywhere between
4.75V and 5.25V, ie, 5V ±5%.
Advanced Constructors Only
This project uses a number of surface-mount ICs (including the microcontroller) which means that very good soldering skills are necessary in order to
build it. In addition, you may have to fiddle with your PC’s firewall (if you use
a third-party firewall) and the one on your modem as well, to get your PC to
synchronise with an internet time server. As such, we regard this project as
being suitable for advanced constructors only.
October 2008 19
Pin Function
Details
1
VPP
Programming voltage
(typically 13V)
2
PGC
Programming clock signal
3
GND
Ground reference
4
GND
5
VDD
Ground reference
Supply voltage
(typically 5V)
6
PGD
Programming data signal
Table 1: this table shows the pinout of the ICSP (in-circuit serial
programming) header CON1. It can
be used to program IC1 in-circuit
using a programmer like the dsPIC
Programmer featured in the May
2008 issue. Other programmers like
Microchip’s PICKit2 can also be used,
by connecting the pins appropriately.
Diode D1 provides reverse polarity protection for the USB Clock’s
circuitry. It also ensures that, when
the PC is switched off (but the USB
cable is left connected), the battery
cannot discharge back into the PC’s
USB port.
When USB power is applied, the
supply rail sits at about 4.4V. This is
sufficient to power the circuit and to
trickle-charge the three AAA NiMH
cells used for back-up battery.
The 4.4V supply rail is bypassed
using a 47mF electrolytic capacitor.
Two 3.3W resistors connected in
parallel (to give 1.65W) are used to
limit the charging current through the
battery. In addition, the voltage across
these resistors is directly proportional
to the charging current and this voltage
is applied via a 15kW resistor to the
AN1 (pin 20) input of IC1.
As a result, the applied voltage is
digitised and the resulting value then
used by the firmware to detect when
the USB cable is disconnected.
When that happens, the battery
supplies power for the clock and the
AN1 input sits at a small negative
voltage with respect to ground. The
15kW resistor in series with the AN1
input limits the input current to avoid
damage to this input, while the 100nF
monolithic capacitor is used to bypass
the applied voltage signal.
The other 100nF capacitors are used
to bypass the main supply rail, while
the 220nF capacitor is used to bypass
the output of IC1’s internal 3.3V regulator at pin 37 (this is used to run the
on-board USB transceiver).
Crystal clocks
A 20MHz crystal (X1) is used for the
USB system and as the system clock.
This crystal is connected between pin
30 & 31 of IC1, while the two associated 15pF capacitors provide the correct
load to ensure that the oscillator starts
reliably. An internal PLL multiplication stage and division stage are then
used to derive a 48MHz clock which
is used by the USB system.
Crystal X2 is a standard 32.768kHz
watch crystal (32,768 = 215) and is used
for timekeeping. Its tolerance is less
than 20ppm (parts per million) and it
gives quartz watch accuracy, typically
a second or two per day (or a minute
per month at worst). However, this is
only relevant if the USB Clock is not
synchronised regularly with the PC.
The two associated 22pF ceramic
capacitors provide the correct loading
for this crystal.
Measuring the supply voltage
As mentioned above, IC1’s VUSB pin
(pin 37) is the output of the microcontroller’s internal 3.3V voltage regulator. This output is fed directly to the
AN0 ADC input at pin 19. Since this
voltage sits very close to 3.3V, this allows the microcontroller to measure its
own supply voltage. This can be used
to detect a low voltage condition and
thus disable the backlight operation
accordingly.
Backlight circuit
Display
Mode
What’s Shown On The LCD
0
Time is shown as HH:MM (hours:minutes) with the colon toggling at 2Hz
(eg, 22:25 indicates it is 10:25pm).
1
Date is shown as DD:MM (day:month) (eg, 17.07 indicates 17 July).
2
Date is shown as YYYY (year) (eg, 2008 indicates the year 2008).
3
Time is shown as MM:SS (minutes:seconds) with the colon toggling at 1Hz
(eg, 25:59 indicates 25 minutes and 59 seconds past the hour).
4
Battery charging current is shown in amps (eg, C.074 indicates 74mA).
5
Supply voltage is shown in volts (eg, b4.48 indicates 4.48V).
6
Battery charge state is shown in % (eg, b100 indicates 100% charge).
7
Shows the current backlight PWM Duty cycle as a percentage
(eg, P080 indicates 80% duty cycle).
8
The current state of the USB enumeration is shown as a number
(eg, Usb6 indicates the clock is CONFIGURED and ready to receive data).
0: DETACHED state 4: ADDRESS PENDING state
1: ATTACHED state
5: ADDRESSED state
2: POWERED state
6: CONFIGURED state
3: DEFAULT state
9
The time and date are shown as a scrolling string.
10
The time is shown as a scrolling string.
11
Displays firmware version (eg, F1.00 refers to version 1.00).
Table 2: the USB Clock has 12 display modes as listed here. You step through
them by repeatedly pressing switch S1 or by using the usbclock.exe program.
20 Silicon Chip
The backlight consists of four LED
pairs connected in series (note: these
are part of a complete module). This
is preferable to a parallel connection
because it ensures that the LEDs have
exactly the same current flowing
through them at all times, thus ensuring equal brightness.
The downside of a series connection
is that you need a much higher driving
voltage, in this case around 16V since
the forward voltage drop of each LED
pair is around 4V. This stepped-up
voltage is derived using IC4 which is
an LM3519 “High-Frequency Boost
White LED Driver”.
In operation, IC4 works from a supply rail as low as 2.7V and can generate
a constant 20mA through the LEDs. A
3.3mH RF choke, Schottky diode D3
and the 4.7mF & 22mF bypass capacitors complete the backlight driver.
The brightness of the backlight is
controlled via the enable (EN) input
(pin 1) of IC4 using PWM (pulse width
modulation) from pin 36 (CCP1) of IC1.
The PWM frequency generated by IC1
is around 30kHz and the duty-cycle
siliconchip.com.au
2008
3
2
35
32
38
39
19
37
22pF
15pF
Vss
6
29
CCP1
RD0
RC6
RC7
RD4
RD5
RD6
RD7
RB0
RD3
RB1
RB2
RB3
RB4
RA2
RD2
Vss
25
26
27
17
15
13
16
12
18
36
40
44
1
2
3
4
5
8
41
9
10
11
14
21
RA5 24
23
RA4
22
RA3
RE0
RE1
RE2
PGD
PGM
ICPGD
PGC
RD1
AN0
VUSB
T1oscIN
T1oscO
OSC2
MCLR
ICPGC
IC1
PIC18F4550
OSC1
D+
D–
USB CLOCK
220nF
22pF
X2
32.768kHz
15pF
31
30
43
42
2x
3.3
4a (LCD p21)/4b (IC2 p9)
4f (LCD p22)/4c (IC2 p8)
4g (LCD p23)/4d (IC2 p7)
3b (LCD p24)/4e (IC2 p6)
3a (LCD p25)/DP3 (IC2 p5)
3f (LCD p26)/3c (IC2 p4)
3g (LCD p27)/3d (IC2 p3)
COL (LCD p28)/3e (IC2 p2)
2b (LCD p29)/DP2 (IC3 p9)
2a (LCD p30)/2c (IC3 p8)
2f (LCD p31)/2d (IC3 p7)
2g (LCD p32)/2e (IC3 p6)
1b (LCD p34)/DP1 (IC3 p5)
1a (LCD p35)/1c (IC3 p4)
1f (LCD p36)/1d (IC3 p3)
1g (LCD p37)/1e (IC3 p2)
100nF
K
15k
4
3
6
2
A 1
S1
11
1
7
6
5
4
GND
LE
D0 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
IC3
74HCT573
8
A
K
D2: 1N4148
Vcc
4.7 F
16V
DP2
10
3
DP3
4
EN
GND
LE
D0 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
GND
2
Vout
LEDrtn
IC4
LM3519
SW
5
A
A
IC2
74HCT573
Vcc
4
3
K
K
22 F
16V
K
A
100nF
OPTIONAL
BACK
LIGHTING
LED
MODULE
10
19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12
O0 O1 O2 O3 O4 O5 O6 O7
20
Vcc
OE
D3 1N5819
11
1
Vcc
D1, D3:1N4004, 1N5819
1
Vin
3.3 H
6
COL
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12
O0 O1 O2 O3 O4 O5 O6 O7
20
Vcc
OE
3
2
1
DP1
2
:
8.8.8.8
1
Fig.1: the circuit of the LCD USB Clock is based on a microcontroller (IC1) and a 4-digit LCD readout. Power comes from the USB port of a PC or from a 3.6V
rechargeable NiMH battery. IC4 and its associated circuitry are used only for the optional backlighting feature.
SC
4
1
X1 20MHz
USB TYPE B
SOCKET
20
RA5
AN1
RA4
A
NC
40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21
COM1
COM1
RA2
CON1
NC
RB4
5
RA5
1f
1e
RB3
15k
D2
RA2
1a
RB2
–
RA4
1b
1c
1d
RB1
Vdd
RB4
2g
2e
Vdd
RE0
NC
1g
NC
NC
DP1
100nF
RB3
2f
2d
3x
15k
RB2
2a
2c
100nF
RB1
2b
DP2
28
RD7
COL
3e
RB0
7
RB0
3g
3d
RD7
47 F
16V
RD6
3f
3c
RD6
K
RD4
3a
DP3
RD5
D1
1N4004
RD5
3b
4e
RD4
Vcc
RC7
4g
4d
RC7
3.6V BATTERY CON
+
2
RD2
4f
RD2
NC
RE0
RC6
4a
4b
4c
RC6
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 21
4
L1*
LK1
220nF
1
CON1
2
LK6
LK7
LK8
5
6
LK9
–
+
IC1
1
PIC18F4550
(TQFP-44)
IC4*
12
D3*
LCD MODULE
100nF
100nF
23
34
1
22 F*
3.3
3.3
04110081
LK2
LK3
15k*
+
15k
15k
3
2
4.7 F*
D2
15k
LK5
1
LK4
X2
D1
BACKLIGHT SOCKET*
K
3
3.3 H
15k
100nF
4
Fig.2: follow these
layout diagrams to
install the parts on
the top side and on
the underside of the
PC board. The parts
marked with an
asterisk are installed
only if the optional
backlighting is
required (see text).
1
1
IC2
74HC573D
15pF
22pF
+
18001140
X1
47 F
USB
TYPE B
SOCKET
IC3
74HC573D
15pF
22pF
+
100nF
CON2
TOP OF BOARD
UNDERSIDE OF BOARD
These two photos show the fully-assembled USB Clock module from the
top (left) and bottom (right).
is set by the firmware. In particular,
the firmware automatically reduces
the duty-cycle (and thus the backlight
brightness) if it detects that the battery
is “buckling” under the load.
Note that IC4’s “shutdown” current
is less than 1mA, making it ideal for
battery-powered applications.
Pushbutton switch
Six-way header CON1 is used to
connect pushbutton switch S1 between pins 12/16 of IC1 and ground.
Pins 12/16 are normally pulled high
via a 15kW pull-up resistor but are
22 Silicon Chip
pulled low each time S1 is pressed.
This switch is used to turn on the
backlighting and to step through the
different display modes (see Table 2).
In addition, CON1 can also be
used to program the microcontroller
in circuit (ie, it also functions as an
ICSP header). ICSP (in-circuit serial
programming) is a vital requirement for
any SMD microcontroller, as these are
more difficult to program out of circuit
than standard through-hole parts.
If you purchase the USB Clock as
a kit, the microcontroller will be preprogrammed and so you will not need
to use this connector. By contrast, the
“home-brew” constructor can use this
connector to program the microcontroller using the hex file that’s available
in the October 2008 download section
of the SILICON CHIP website.
The ICSP pin connections for CON1
are shown in Table 1.
The other header, CON2, is used to
connect the rechargeable battery pack
(3 x 900mAh AAA NiMh cells).
Driving the LCD
The firmware is responsible for all
the clock functions, as well as driving
siliconchip.com.au
This photo shows the fully-assembled PC board before installation of the backlight
and the LCD. Note the foam blocks which are used to support the backlight.
the LCD. In operation, the display segments are driven by a square wave with
a frequency of about 25Hz. A segment
is on whenever its driving signal is out
of phase with the backplane signal (at
pins 1 & 40). Conversely, a segment will
be off whenever its driving signal is in
phase with the backplane drive. The
segment contrast is proportional to the
RMS of the voltage applied to the segment relative to the backplane.
Basically, we need 33 driving signals
(28 for the LCD’s four 7-segment digits,
four for the decimal points and the colon
and one to control the backplane). In this
circuit, however, the microcontroller
(IC1) drives the display segments using
just 18 lines. It does this by driving 16
segments directly, while the other 16
segments are driven by loading two 8-bit
bytes (ie, from the same microcontroller
outputs) into D-type octal transparent
latches IC2 & IC3.
This latching occurs very quickly
(within nanoseconds), thus ensuring
that the segment drive is very close to
50% duty cycle. This is important to
minimise the DC offset across the LCD
segments, as excessive DC offset can
destroy this kind of display.
Fig.3: the 20-pin socket strip for the
backlight is modified by removing
the pins indicated in red.
The pins are removed from the 20pin socket strip by cutting them off
flush using sidecutters, as shown
at left. The photo above shows the
modified socket strip.
Pin 27 of the microcontroller provides the LCD’s backplane signal. This
directly drives pins 1 & 40 of the LCD.
a custom Microchip driver (MCHPUSB).
Each time the host program on the
PC sends a 64-byte packet, the microcontroller in the USB Clock decodes it
(according to the sent command) and
updates its settings accordingly. The
time is sent as a time data type, consisting of the hours, minutes, seconds,
day of the week, day of the month, day
of the year and year.
In addition, the microcontroller
keeps an internal record of the last
Full-speed (12Mbps) USB2.0
Another job of the firmware is to service
the USB2.0 port. Endpoint 0 is implemented, as that is mandatory for any USB
device. Endpoint 1 is implemented as
well and uses 64-byte data packets. These
packets are used to communicate with the
host program (usbclock.exe) on the PC via
Table 3: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
4
2
Value
15kW
3.3W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown green orange brown
orange orange gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown green black red brown
orange orange black silver brown
October 2008 23
Backlight & LCD Options
If you decide to omit the backlight, use the reflective
LCD module from Jaycar (Cat. ZD-1886). Reflective
LCD modules reflect the polarised ambient light to
create the contrast for the segments. However, they
do not let light pass through from underneath and
are therefore unsuitable for backlighting.
If you do wish to have a backlight, you must use
a trans-reflective LCD module instead (eg, Farnell
Cat. 1989340). A trans-reflective LCD module differs
from a reflective module in that it lets some light pass
through from underneath, thus making it suitable for
backlighting.
The specified reflective and trans-reflective modules are pin-for-pin compatible, so either will work in
this circuit. They are both 4-digit static LCD displays
that consume very little power and so are ideal for
battery-powered applications.
The backlight
plugs into the
modified centre
socket strip,
so that it sits
directly under
the LCD.
successful synchronisation with the
host.
If the packet is successfully transmitted, the USB Clock sends a 64-byte
packet back to the host program. It contains information on all the relevant
settings of the USB Clock and these can
be accessed by running the usbclock.
exe program with the information option (ie, by typing usbclock -i).
We’ll explain how to use the command line program usbclock.exe to
communicate with and synchronise
the USB Clock next month. This
program can also be used to change
various default settings.
Construction
Building the USB Clock requires
good soldering skills, since a number
of SMDs (surface mount devices) are
used. However, the SMDs used have
a relatively large pin spacing, so the
job should still be relatively straightforward.
All the parts are mounted on a single
PC board coded 04110081 and measuring 63 x 78mm. Fig.2 shows the parts
24 Silicon Chip
layout and wiring details. Note that
those parts marked with an asterisk
are installed only if you intend fitting
the optional backlight.
Note also that if the backlight is
fitted, you will need to use a transreflective 4-digit LCD, as specified in
the parts list.
Begin by inspecting the PC board
for hairline cracks in the tracks and
for shorts between closely-spaced
tracks. That done, start the assembly
by installing the wire links. There are
nine of these, including one under the
righthand side of the LCD.
Use tinned copper wire for the links.
It can be straightened by clamping
one end in a vise and then stretching
it slightly by pulling on the other end
with a pair of pliers.
The resistors go in next. Table 3
shows the resistor colour codes but
you should also check each one using
a DMM before soldering it into circuit.
The three diodes are next on the list.
Note that these are all mounted vertically on the board. Make sure that all
the diodes are correctly oriented and
note that that D1 is a 1N4004 while
D3 ia a 1N5819.
The 3.3mH RF choke (L1) can now be
soldered into place. This also mounts
vertically on the board. It looks like
the resistors, so don’t get it mixed up
with these parts (it should have a very
low DC resistance).
Now fit the four ceramic capacitors
(2 x 15pF & 2 x 22pF). These are all
located immediately to the left of the
USB socket. Once they’re in, install the
five monolithic capacitors (4 x 100nF &
1 x 220nF) and the three electrolytics.
Make sure that the electrolytics are all
correctly oriented.
Follow these with the two crystals
(X1 & X2). The 32.768kHz watch crystal (X2) has very delicate leads so be
careful with these. This crystal should
be mounted so that it sits horizontally
on the PC board. Secure X2 in place
with a small dab of silicone to prevent
it from moving and fracturing its leads
after it has been installed.
Cutting the IC sockets
The next step is to cut the two 40-pin
IC sockets in half to obtain three 20-pin
strips (the remaining strip is discarded).
Two of these 20-pin socket strips are
used to mount the LCD while the other
is used to mount the backlight module.
We recommend that you can leave
part of the middle connecting bar
on the top socket strip (see photos)
to provide support for the backlight
module. The two socket strips for the
LCD module should now be soldered
into position.
siliconchip.com.au
This life-size view shows the completed unit before the lid is fastened into place. Take care to ensure that the LCD is
the right way around and be sure to install the battery with the correct polarity.
The socket strip for the backlight
module can now also be mounted but
first you have to remove a number of
pins.
This is done by snipping them off
using side-cutters, as follows: beginning on the left, remove two pins,
then leave one, remove two, leave
two, remove two, leave two, remove
two, leave two, remove two, leave one,
remove two (ie, 12 removed in total).
Fig.3 shows the pattern.
The modified socket strip can then
be soldered into place. We also suggest adding a couple of foam pads as
shown in one of the photos to provide
additional support for the backlight
module.
Once these socket strips are all
in place, install the USB socket and
the 6-pin and 2-pin headers (CON1
& CON2).
That completes the top of the PC
board, apart from plugging in the
backlight module and the LCD. Leave
these two components out for the time
siliconchip.com.au
Soldering In The Surface-Mount ICs
The PIC microcontroller (IC1) is mounted by soldering pins 21 & 22 (topright of IC1) first. Any solder bridges between pins (eg, as indicated by the
red circles in the centre photo) can be cleared using solder wick.
The photo at right shows IC3
& IC4 mounted position while
above is a close-up of IC4.
Make sure that all ICs are
correctly oriented.
October 2008 25
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04110081, 63
x 78mm
1 Type B USB socket (Jaycar
PS-0920; Altronics P-1304)
1 Deluxe Hand Held Case, 79 x
117 x 24mm, with battery compartment (Altronics H-8976)
1 transreflective 4-digit + colon
LCD (Farnell 1989340)*, OR
1 reflective 4-digit + colon LCD
(Jaycar ZD-1886)
1 20MHz crystal, HC49US case
(X1) (Jaycar RQ-5299)
1 32.768kHz watch crystal,
±20ppm (X2) (Altronics V-1902)
1 SPST momentary pushbutton
switch (S1) (Jaycar SP-0656)
1 3.3mH RF Choke (Jaycar LF1516, Altronics L-7016)*
2 40-pin DIL IC sockets
1 6-way header, 2.54mm pitch
(CON1)
1 2-way header, 2.54mm pitch
(CON2)
3 900mAh (or better) NiMH AAA
rechargeable batteries with
solder tabs (Jaycar SB-1724)
1 50mm dia. x 300mm length of
Thermotite heatshrink (Jaycar
WH-5580) (for battery pack)
1 Type A to Type B USB cable
(Altronics P-1911A, Jaycar
WC-7700)
2 header plugs (2.5mm pitch) (RS
Components Cat. 311-6209)
1 120mm-length of medium-duty
hookup wire (red)
1 120mm-length of medium-duty
hookup wire (black)
being. They go in after the four SMD
ICs have been installed.
Soldering the SMD ICs
The four SMD ICs (IC1-IC4) are
installed on the copper side of the PC
board – see Fig.2. To install them, you
will need a soldering iron with a finepointed tip, some very fine resin-cored
solder, a pair of self-closing tweezers
and a good light.
A magnifying lamp is also handy or
failing that, a magnifying glass so that
you can inspect the soldered leads for
possible shorts.
Begin by installing IC2 & IC3, the
two 74HC573D latches. These have a
larger pin spacing than IC1 and so are
26 Silicon Chip
1 30mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
4 6g self-tapping screws
Semiconductors
1 PIC18F4550-I/PT microcontroller
(TQFP44 package)
programmed with 0411008A
(IC1) (Farnell 9321365)
2 74HC573D octal D-type transparent latch (SO20 package)
(IC2-IC3) (Farnell 1201326)
1 LM3519MK-20 LED driver IC
(SOT-23 6 package) (IC4)
(Farnell 1312717)*
1 LTR24S360-4YG LED
backlight module (Farnell
1208878)*
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 1N4148 Signal diode (D2)
1 1N5819 Schottky diode (D3)*
Capacitors
1 47mF 16V electrolytic
1 22mF 25V electrolytic*
1 4.7mF 16V electrolytic*
1 220nF monolithic
4 100nF monolithic
2 22pF ceramic
2 15pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
4 15kW
2 3.3W
1 15kW*
Footnote
Parts marked with an asterisk (*)
are required for the optional LCD
backlighting only.
a good place to start.
First, position IC2 on the PC board
and “clamp” it in place using the selfclosing tweezers (or a clothes peg).
Check that it is correctly oriented (ie,
with pin 1 positioned as shown on
Fig.2), then carefully solder pin 10
to its pad.
Now do the same for pin 20 which is
diagonally opposite. The IC will now
be firmly anchored in place and you
can remove the tweezers and carefully
solder the remaining 18 pins.
Repeat this procedure for IC3, then
move on to IC1 (the PIC microcontroller).
IC1 is slightly more difficult to
install because its pins are closer to-
gether. As before, take care to ensure
that it is properly oriented and clamp
it accurately in position before soldering its pins.
In this case, the best pins to solder
first are pins 21 and 22 at top right
(see photo). These are soldered to the
same pad, so they’re easier to deal
with. After that, solder pin 1, then
remove the clamp and solder the
remaining pins.
The trick here is not to apply too
much solder. Use it sparingly and be
sure to solder each pin quickly. You
don’t want to apply too much heat for
too long, otherwise you could damage
the IC.
Don’t worry if you get solder bridges
between adjacent pins at this stage –
just move onto the next pin and keep
going.
After you’ve finished soldering the
44 pins, you can remove any solder
bridges using solder wick. This is done
by laying the wick along the pins and
then applying the soldering iron to the
wick to “suck” up the excess solder
(see photo).
IC4 (LM3519) can now be installed.
It’s quite small and comes in a 6-pin
SOT-23 package. Once again, make
sure it is correctly oriented before
soldering its pins. Pin 1 is adjacent
to the chamfer along one edge of its
body (see Fig.2).
In practice, it’s easiest to solder pin
6 first, since its PC pad is larger than
the others. The remaining five pins can
then be carefully soldered.
It’s now a good idea to carefully
inspect each IC with a magnifying
glass to make sure that everything is
correct. In particular, look for solder
bridges and for pins that haven’t been
soldered.
Note: for further information on
soldering SMDs, refer to the feature
article in the March 2008 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
LCD & backlight installation
Now that the ICs are all in place,
install the backlight module into its IC
socket strip, then fit the LCD module.
Take care with the orientation of the
LCD – pin 1 goes to bottom left.
Making the battery pack
The battery pack consists of three
NiMH AAA cells with solder tabs.
These are connected in series as shown
in Fig.5 to give an output of 3.6V.
To make up the pack, first lay two
siliconchip.com.au
batteries together side-by-side but facing in opposite directions. Solder their
tabs together, then sit the third battery
in the channel formed by the first two
and solder its tabs.
It’s then just a matter of adding the
output leads (red for positive, black
for negative) and using some heatshrink to secure the cells into a pack.
The output leads are terminated in a
2-pin header and this should be fitted
before the leads are connected to the
battery.
Warning: be careful not to short
any of the cell terminals or the output
leads. NiMH batteries can supply lots
of current.
Fig.4: switch S1
connects to pins 2
& 4 of CON1 via a
2-pin header plug.
TO CON1 VIA
2-PIN HEADER PLUG
PIN
2
S1
PIN
4
Fig.5: the battery
pack is made up
by connecting
the NiMH cells
in series. Use
heatshrink sleeving
to secure the cells
together in one
pack.
AAA NiMH CELL
TO CON2 VIA
2-PIN HEADER PLUG
+
AAA NiMH CELL
–
AAA NiMH CELL
Final assembly
The assembly can now be completed
by installing it in the specified case.
As shown in the photos, the PC
board is secured to integral stand-offs
in the bottom of the case using four 6g
self-tapping screws. The battery sits in
a separate compartment and is plugged
into CON2 but don’t do that just yet.
Next, you will have to drill a hole in
the lid of the case for the switch and
cut out a window for the LCD. The
front panel artwork shown in Fig.6 can
be used as a drilling template (either
copy the artwork from the magazine
or download it from the SILICON CHIP
website and print it out).
Once you have the artwork, attach it
to the front panel using double-sided
tape, then drill the hole for the switch.
Use a small pilot drill to begin with,
then carefully enlarge it to 10mmdiameter using a tapered reamer.
The window for the LCD is best
made by drilling a series of holes
around the inside perimeter. The
centre-piece is then be cut out using
a small hacksaw and the job filed to a
smooth finish.
The drilling template should now
be removed and a new front-panel
artwork printed out. This should be
protected by covering it with some
wide strips of clear adhesive tape before cutting it out and attaching it to
the front panel. It can be affixed using
double-sided tape or by using a thin
smear of silicone sealant.
nated in a 2-way header which is then
plugged into pins 2 & 4 of CON1.
MODE
10mm
BACKLIGHT
51 x 23mm
LCD CUTOUT
USB CLOCK
SILICON
SILICON
CHIP
CHIP www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: this full-size artwork can be
used as a drilling template.
Cut out the holes in the front panel
label using a sharp hobby knife, then
mount the switch in position and
attach a couple of 100mm-long flying
leads. These leads are then termi-
Testing
Assuming IC1 is programmed, apply
power by plugging the battery pack
into CON2. Be sure to connect the
battery the right way around, as there
is no on-board protection against a
reversed battery connection.
As soon as you apply power, the
LCD should show a default time of
12:00, assuming that the battery is
charged. If the battery isn’t charged,
then you will have to apply power by
plugging the USB Clock into the USB
port of your PC.
The clock should then briefly flash
the word “SYnc” and then repeat this
every 15 seconds, indicating that it
hasn’t been synchronised. If it does
that, then it is working correctly and
the lid can be attached.
It’s now simply a matter of installing
a driver plus the usbclock.exe program
on your PC and then running the program to synchronise the USB Clock.
We’ll describe just how this is done in
Pt.2 next month.
We’ll also show you how to synchronise your PC to an internet time
server and describe how to run usbclock.exe automatically each time
SC
your PC starts.
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies safe
with our handy binders
Available Aust, only. Price: $A14.95 plus $10.00 p&p per order (includes GST). Just fill in and mail the handy
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siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 27
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
By JIM ROWE
T
RADITIONALLY, RF level/power
meters have been quite expensive
beasts costing many hundreds of dollars, even secondhand. Small wonder
that many of us have simply had to do
without them. Such RF level/power
meters have always been expensive
because of the measurement technique they used: converting the RF
energy into heat and then measuring
the temperature rise using a sensitive
thermocouple system.
Luckily for us, advancing semiconductor technology now provides an
easier way: the wideband logarithmic
amplifier/detector IC. Its DC output is
closely proportional to the logarithm
of the RF input voltage. We can achieve
the desired result by combining one
of these chips with an “intelligent”
metering circuit, capable of processing
this logarithmic DC voltage to indicate
both signal level and the corresponding power level.
In a nutshell, our circuit uses an
Analog Devices AD8307AN logarithmic amplifier/detector to convert RF
signals into DC which is processed by
a PIC microcontroller. The micro uses
some fairly fancy maths routines to
work out the signal level and power,
which is then displayed on a standard
2-line LCD panel. The whole set-up
works from a 9V battery or DC plugpack and draws less than 35mA.
The AD8307 log amp/detector
Digital RF Level
& Power Meter
Need to measure small signals at radio
frequencies? Here is a low-cost digital level
and power meter which will allow you to
measure RF signals from below 50kHz to
above 500MHz. As well as indicating the
signal level in volts and dBV, it also shows
the corresponding power level (into 50 ohms)
in both milliwatts and dBm.
30 Silicon Chip
To help understand logarithmic
amplifier/detector ICs, take a look at
Fig.1. This gives a simplified view
inside the AD8307AN device. The incoming RF signals are passed through
six cascaded wideband differential
amplifier/limiter stages, each of which
has a gain of 14.3dB (about 5.2 times)
before it enters limiting (ie, clipping).
This gives a total amplifier gain of
about 86dB or about 20,000 times.
The outputs of each amplifier/limiter
stage are fed to a series of nine fullwave detector cells, along with similar
outputs from three cascaded passive
14.3dB attenuator cells connected to
the input of the first amplifier/limiter.
The differential current-mode outputs of all nine detector cells are
added together and fed to a “current
mirror” output stage, which effectively
converts them into a single-sided DC
output current. Because of the combination of cascaded gain and limiting in
the amplifiers (plus an internal offset
compensation loop), the amplitude
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications
SIX 14.3dB GAIN, 900MHz BW AMPLIFIER/LIMITER STAGES
+INP
INTERC.
SET
–INP
•
3x PASSIVE
ATTENUATOR
CELLS
MIRROR
Iout
NINE FULL-WAVE DETECTOR CELLS WITH
DIFFERENTIAL OUTPUT CURRENTS – ALL SUMMED
ENB
BAND-GAP REFERENCE
AND BIASING
OUT
25mV/dB
12.5k
INPUT OFFSET COMPENSATION LOOP
Fig.1: block diagram of the AD8307AN amplifier/detector IC. The incoming
RF signals are passed through six cascaded wideband differential
amplifier/limiter stages and these in turn drive full-wave detector cells (see
text).
4.7
TO MAIN
BOARD
(CON1)
100nF
47nF
8
Rin*
7
VPS
IN H
6
EN
4
OUT
IC1
AD8307AN 5
INT
47nF
1
10
IN L
COM
2
OFS
INTERCEPT
ADJUST
SLOPE
VR2 ADJUST
50k
1
2
3
4
VR1
50k
100nF
3
100nF
51k
SC
RF LEVEL & POWER METER
33k
HEAD END CIRCUIT
Fig.2: the head-end circuit is based on the AD8307AN. The incoming RF
signals are fed to pins 8 & 1 via 47nF capacitors, while the detected output
appears at pin 4 and is fed to pin 3 of a type A USB socket.
of this output current is closely proportional to the logarithm of the RF
input voltage, over an input range of
100dB from about -93dBV (22.4mV) up
to +7.0dBV (2.24V).
In fact this “logarithmic law” relationship is linear to within ±0.3dB
over most of the range. The output
current Iout increases at a slope of very
close to 2mA per dB increase in RF input level. This current passes through
an internal 12.5kW resistor, resulting in
a DC output voltage which increases
at the rate of 25mV/dB. This slope
can be fine tuned using an adjustable
external resistor in parallel with the
12.5kW internal resistor.
So what’s that “intercept set” input
for? This allows us to adjust the DC
offset in the output current mirror,
which adjusts the effective “zero level”
point of the chip’s output current and
siliconchip.com.au
•
•
•
•
•
Input impedance: 50W (can be
changed to 75W or 1.1kW)
Measuring frequency range:
from below 50kHz to above
500MHz
Maximum input signal level:
2.238V RMS (+7.0dBV)
Minimum input signal level:
22mV RMS (-93dBV)
Maximum input power level:
100mW into 50W (+20dBm)
Minimum input power level:
1nW (0.001mW/-60dBm)
Measurement linearity:
approximately ±0.3dB
Measurement accuracy:
approximately 0.2%
Power requirements: 9V DC at
35mA (no backlight) or 120mA
with backlight
CON5
USB TYPE
'A' SOCKET
* Rin = 100 //220 //220 FOR 50 INPUT
2008
•
•
COM
RF
INPUT
CON4
•
voltage, ie, the “origin” from which the
output slope rises. You can think of
it as setting the detector’s zero point.
Head-end circuit
It’s desirable to separate the RF
detector section from the rest of the
meter circuitry, partly because it is the
only section handling RF signals and
partly because it has very high gain
and is therefore susceptible to electromagnetic interference. The AD8307AN and its accompanying components
are therefore mounted on a small
“head-end” board which in turn is
mounted inside a small diecast aluminium box, for shielding.
The circuit of this head-end section is shown in Fig.2 and involves
little else apart from the all-important
AD8307AN (IC1). The incoming RF
signals are coupled into the inputs
of IC1 via two 47nF capacitors, with
Rin providing the desired 50W input
termination. (Rin is a combination of
paralleled surface-mount chip resistors, to give a value of 52.4W with
very low parasitic inductance. As the
input impedance of the AD8307AN is
itself very close to 1.1kW and this is
in parallel with Rin, the resulting total
input resistance is very close to 50W).
Trimpot VR1 and its 33kW series
resistor are connected between the
output (pin 4) of IC1 and ground, so
they are effectively in parallel with
the 12.5kW resistor inside the chip
itself. This allows the output slope
of the detector to be fine tuned to a
value of 20mV/dB, when the meter is
calibrated.
Trimpot VR2 is used to adjust the
DC voltage fed to pin 5 of IC1. This is
the “intercept set” input, so VR2 effectively becomes the detector’s zero
set adjustment.
The head-end section connects to
the main meter unit via a standard USB
cable. This cable carries the detector’s
output voltage to the main board via
pin 3 of CON5 and also supplies IC1
with +5V power via pin 1.
Main circuit
The processing part of the circuit
is shown in Fig.3. Here is where the
real “work” is done, by the firmware
October 2008 31
Volts, dBV, Milliwatts & dBm
The RF Level and Power Meter described in this article gives four indications for
every measurement: the RF input voltage (in volts or millivolts), the corresponding
value in dBV, the corresponding power level in the meter’s 50W input load (in milliwatts
or microwatts) and the corresponding value in dBm. The voltage and power levels
probably need no explanation but I should perhaps explain the significance of the two
decibel readings.
For many years, engineers working in the communications and RF fields have found
it convenient to describe signal amplitude and power levels in decibels, because of the
very wide ranges involved – from microvolts (mV) to kilovolts (kV), and from nanowatts
(nW) to kilowatts (kW).
Because decibel scales are logarithmic, they make it easier to work with signals
varying over such wide ranges. To describe the voltage gain of an RF amplifier in terms
of decibels, for example, we simply take the base-10 logarithm of the voltage gain
(Vout/Vin) and multiply this figure by 20. So a voltage gain of 10 corresponds to +20dB,
a gain of 100 corresponds to +40dB, a gain of 1000 corresponds to +60dB and so on.
Similarly an attenuator which reduces the voltage level by a factor of 10:1 can be
described as having a “gain” of -20dB. Get the idea?
When we’re describing power levels rather than voltage, the power gain of an
RF amplifier can be found by again taking the base-10 logarithm of the power gain
(Pout/Pin) but this time multiplying the figure by 10. So a power gain of 10 times is
+10dB, while a power gain of 100 times is +20dB and so on. (If you’re a bit puzzled
by the difference between voltage and power when calculating the decibels, it’s merely
because power increases with the square of the voltage. That’s why we multiply the
log of voltage ratios by 20 but we only multiply the log of power ratios by 10).
dbV and dBm
So what’s the difference between “dBV” and “dBm” figures? Well, these are both
decibel scales but in this case they are used to compare one specific voltage or power
level with a known reference value, rather than to compare two specific values. So
the contractions dBV and dBm indicate that the figures they accompany are absolute,
rather than relative.
“dBV” is a voltage level expressed in decibels with reference to 1.000 volts. So
+6dBV (2V) is 6dB greater than 1V, while -20dBV (100mV) is 20dB smaller than 1V.
So expressing a voltage in dBV merely indicates that it is measured on a decibel scale
which refers to 1.00V as its 0dB point.
Similarly, “dBm” is a power level which is expressed in decibels with reference
to a specific reference power level of 1mW (milliwatt); in other words, on a decibel
scale where 1mW corresponds to 0dB. So +10dBm corresponds to 10mW, +20dBm
to 100mW and -30dBm to 1mW (microwatt).
There is another “absolute” decibel scale used for expressing voltage levels, the
dBm scale. This refers to a level of 1mV (microvolt) as its 0dB point. So +120dBm is
the same as 0dBV, while 0dBu is the same as -120dBV.
One last point: since the dBV and dBm scales are “absolute”, surely they can be
related to each other? Yes they can but to work this out you need to know the impedance level – because that is what relates voltage and power in any circuit.
In most RF work, the impedance level is 50W. At this level, a voltage of 1V corresponds to a power level of 20mW (12/50), so 0dBV equals +13dBm. On the other
hand -30dBm (= 1mW) corresponds to 7.07mV, or -43dBV. In other words, there’s a
fixed 13dB difference between the two scales.
This difference changes with impedance level, though. For example when the impedance level is 600W, 0dBm or 1mW corresponds to 0.7746V or -2.218dBV, so there’s
a fixed 2.2dB difference between dBm and dBV.
Older RF level and power meters often indicated in just dBm or perhaps in dBV as
well. If the user wanted to know the actual voltage and power level, they had to either
refer to a chart or grab a calculator and work them out. This could be pretty tedious,
and that’s why we’ve given this new RF Level and Power Meter the ability to calculate
and display not just dBm and dBV but the equivalent volts and milliwatts as well, for
every measurement.
32 Silicon Chip
running inside the PIC16F88-I/P micro (IC3). The PIC16F88-I/P device is
well-suited to this application, as it
includes an analog-to-digital converter
(ADC) module with 10-bit measuring
resolution. The ADC is also flexible
in terms of its operating mode, with a
choice of positive and negative reference voltages and also a 7-channel
input multiplexer.
We take advantage of these features
by using a positive reference voltage
of 3.50V which is fed into pin 2 of IC3
and by using three of the ADC input
channels to allow firmware selection
of the measuring range via pin 1 (AN2),
pin 18 (AN1) and pin 17 (AN0).
Why do we need three ranges?
Because it allows us to get higher
measuring resolution when the RF
input signals (and hence the output
voltage from IC1) are quite small. For
these signals, we are able to amplify
the DC output voltage from IC1, in
order to use a larger proportion of the
ADC’s measurement range of 0-3.5V
and hence increase the measurement
resolution.
We provide the three ranges in
the following way. The incoming DC
voltage from IC1 enters via pin 3 of
CON1, and is then passed through a
simple input protection circuit using
diodes D1 & D2, the 100nF capacitor
and the 100W and 1MW resistors. It is
then fed to the paralleled inputs of
op amps IC2b, IC2c & IC2d. Each of
these provides a different amount of
gain, to change the effective slope of
the log-law input signal.
The gain for the normal default
measuring range is 1.75, provided by
IC2b with its 1.5kW and 2.0kW feedback resistors. This gives the incoming
DC signal an effective slope of 1. x 20
or 35mV/dB, translating to a total span
of 100dB for the ADC’s 3.5V measuring range.
For signals of less than 223.9mV
(-13dBV), we select the output from
IC2d, configured for a gain of 2.19.
This gives the incoming DC signal an
effective slope of 43.74mV/dB, translating to a total ADC measuring span
of 80dB. Then for signals of less than
22.39mV (-33dBV) we select the output of IC2c, with a gain of 2.916. This
gives the incoming DC signal a slope
of 58.32mV/dB, which translates to a
total span of 60dB.
Using this approach we obtain
much better measuring resolution
for these much smaller signals. The
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 33
2
3
4
1
100nF
D2
100
A
K
A
K
D1
1M
+5.00V
100nF
6
5
13
12
9
IC2c
4
LED1
330
7
1.5k
2.4k
14
3.9k
TP1
2.0k
2.0k
220k
2.0k
220k
TPG
1
18
17
2
2.2k
RB4
AN2
AN1
Vss
5
10
11
3
CLKo
15
9
RB3
8
RB2
7
RB1
6
RB0
IC3
PIC16F88-I/P
AN0
RB5
RA4
4
14
Vdd MCLR
Vref+
12
RB6
13
RB7
16
RA7
LED3
+3.50V
K
A
MAIN BOARD
11
IC2b
IC2d
8
200
6.8k
LED2
3.0k
K
A
IC2: LM324N
10
K
A
RF LEVEL & POWER METER
USB TYPE
'B' SOCKET
CON1
100nF
+5.00V
6
4
Vdd
2
SET 5.00V
330
TPG
D3
K
A
K
D1,D2: 1N4148
A
TP2 (2.0MHz)
IN
K
A
5
R/W
IC2a
LEDS
2
3
A
OUT
ADJ
1
3
LM317T
IN
–
+
CON3
9–15V DC
INPUT
OUT
CON2
CAL/MOD
OUTPUT
LCD
VR4
10k CONTRAST
68k
1.5k
9V
BATTERY
S2
POWER
CONTRAST
470 F
16V
K
D3 1N4004
16 x 2 LCD MODULE
VR3
100
220 F
ADJ
OUT
D7 D6 D5 D4 D3 D2 D1 D0 GND
1
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7
EN
RS
S1
SELECT
RANGE
10k
100nF
120
REG1 LM317T
Fig.3: the main-board circuit is based on an LM324 quad op amp (IC1) and a PIC16F88 microcontroller (IC3). The incoming signal is fed to paralleled op amp
stages IC2b-IC2d, each operating with a different gain to provide three ranges. Their outputs in turn drive the ADC inputs of IC3 which processes the signals
and drives a 16 x 2 LCD module.
SC
2008
FROM
HEAD
END
(CON5)
TPG
TP3
ALTRONICS
16X2 LCD MODULE
Z-7000A OR Z-7011 (B/L)
A
18090240
8002 C
K
RE W OP/LEVEL FR LATI GID
)DRA O B NIA M( RETE M
14
330
SET 5.00V
TP3
5.00V
REG1
LM317T
1
2.0k
4148
LED2
–20dBV
LED3
–40dBV
470 F
2
3
CON1
POWER
S2
4004
0dBV
1M
4148
100nF
D2
LED1
4
100nF
D3
S1
2.4k
220k
1
100
330
3.9k
220k
RANGE
SELECT
D1
1
IC2 LM324N
2.0k
2.0k
100nF
220 F
1.5k
CAL OUT
CON3
9–15V
DC IN
TPG
CON2
INPUT FROM
HEAD END
68k
LCD
CONTRAST
1.5k
TP2
(2MHz)
200
6.8k
2.2k
10k
3.0k
100
VR3
120
TPG
TP1
(3.50V)
IC3
PIC16F88 -I/P
100nF
10k
RBL*
VR4
TPG
18 0.5W
1
+
–
BATTERY
* SEE TEXT
Fig.4: follow this parts layout diagram and the accompanying photograph to build the main board. Both IC2 and the
PIC16F88 microcontroller (IC3) should be installed in sockets.
outputs from op amps IC2c, IC2d &
IC2b are fed directly to the AN0, AN1
& AN2 (ADC) inputs of the PIC and its
firmware selects the appropriate ADC
input channel by stepping from one
range to the next each time you press
the range select button (S1).
To indicate which range is currently
selected, the firmware switches on
LED1, LED2 or LED3 and automatically changes the scaling factor, so that
the displayed values are correct. After
performing the calculations for each
measurement, the firmware then displays the results via the LCD module.
Power supply
The complete circuit runs from 5V
DC, which is derived from either a 9V
34 Silicon Chip
battery or a plugpack supply of similar voltage, using regulator REG1, an
LM317T adjustable device. We use this
rather than a fixed regulator because
this allows us to set the supply rail
accurately to 5.00V.
We need to do this because the 3.50V
reference voltage for the PIC’s ADC is
derived directly from the 5V rail, via
a voltage divider using 3.0kW, 6.8kW
and 200W resistors. This reference
voltage for the ADC is fed into pin 2
of the PIC, which is configured as the
Vref+ input.
Notice that there are a number of
test points provided in the main board
circuit, to allow more convenient setup and calibration. TP1 allows you to
measure the ADC reference voltage, so
you can adjust trimpot VR3 to achieve
exactly 3.50V at pin 2 of the PIC. TP3
also allows you to measure the 5.00V
rail directly, if you wish, while TP2
allows you to check the PIC’s internal
clock oscillator.
This runs at 8MHz, which means
that the signal available at TP2 should
be very close to 2MHz (Fc/4). So if the
PIC is running correctly, you will find
a 2MHz square-wave of 5V peak-topeak at TP2.
Finally, the fourth op amp, IC2a, is
provided purely as a voltage follower/
buffer from the output of IC2b (the
default ADC driver). Its output is made
available via CON2, to allow you to
monitor the amplified output voltage
from the AD8307AN head-end extersiliconchip.com.au
nally, with a DMM or oscilloscope.
This could be convenient for calibration and also for looking at any
amplitude modulation of the RF
signals being measured. Note that
any observed modulation envelope
is likely to be distorted because of the
logarithmic response of the head-end
amplifier.
51k
4
3
2
10
100nF
100nF
1
VR1
50k
33k
TOP VIEW OF
HEAD END BOARD
SIDE OF
BOX
CON4
CON5
1
100
220
47nF
220
BNC
INPUT
SKT
TO MAIN BOARD
CON5
2
3
4
47nF
Fig.5: these two diagrams & the
above photo show the parts
layout on the head-end board.
Use a fine-tipped soldering
iron to solder the SMDs to the
copper side of the PC board
and take care to ensure that IC1
is correctly orientated. Do not
use a socket for ICs – it must
be soldered directly to the PC
board.
C 2008
04208082
siliconchip.com.au
50k
100nF
IC1
AD8307
Construction
As noted earlier, the project is comprised of two parts: the AD8307AN
head-end fitted into a small metal box
for shielding and the main meter circuitry which is fitted into a UB1-size
plastic jiffy box (158 x 95 x 53mm).
The two are connected together using
a standard USB interconnect cable.
The meter’s main circuitry is all
fitted on a PC board coded 04210081
and measuring 146 x 84mm, and with
a recess in each corner so that it fits
neatly behind the lid of the UB1 box.
The head-end circuitry is installed on
a second PC board coded 04210082
and measuring 43 x 44mm.
There is actually a third PC board for
this project, coded 04210083 and measuring 95 x 38mm. This is for an optional 20dB/50W attenuator, to allow
measurements of higher-level signals.
The location and orientation of all
parts mounted on the main board are
shown clearly in the board overlay
diagram of Fig.4. Note that connectors CON1, CON2 and CON3 are all
mounted directly on the board,
along the righthand side. Power
switch S2 also mounts directly
on the board, with its connection
lugs passing through the board and
soldered to pads underneath.
Range select switch S1 can be
mounted in the same way or mounted
on the box lid with its leads extended
through the board using short lengths
of tinned copper wire. The three range
indicator LEDs are again mounted directly on the board, with the underside
of their bodies spaced up by about
14mm so that the LEDs just protrude
through the matching holes in the front
panel (ie, the lid) when the board is
mounted behind it.
Use sockets for IC2 & IC3, rather
than soldering them directly to the
board.
There are four wire links on the
board and it’s a good idea to fit these
before any of the components so that
they’re not forgotten. The test point
terminal pins can also be fitted at this
VR2
4.7
8002 C
28080240
COPPER SIDE OF
HEAD END BOARD
The head-end board is attached to a panel-mount BNC socket and mounted
upside down inside a diecast metal case. A type A to type B USB cable
connects the unit to the main PC board.
stage, along with the two further pins
used for the optional battery connections. By the way, these last two pins
are mounted from the rear, to make the
battery connections easier.
Mounting the LCD module
The LCD module used for this
project is the Altronics Z-7000A or
Z-7011, with the second type number
signifying the version with backlighting. Regardless of which version you
use, the module is mounted above the
main board using four M3 x 15mm machine screws, with M3 x 6mm tapped
Nylon spacers used as standoffs. Then
nuts are fitted under the board to hold
everything together – but with one Nylon flat washer under the nut at lower
left, to ensure that it doesn’t short-circuit
October 2008 35
What The Firmware Does
As we explain in the main text, the
AD8307 chip in the RF Meter’s “head
end” detects the incoming RF signals and
converts them into a DC voltage according
to a logarithmic conversion scale. A PIC
micro then measures and converts this
into the equivalent RF voltage and power
readings, under the control of a firmware
program.
To do this, it makes use of a suite of
maths routines made available to PIC
programmers by Microchip Technology
Inc, the manufacturers of the PIC family of
micros. These routines are used to perform
24-bit and 32-bit floating-point addition,
subtraction, multiplication and division,
base-10 exponentiation, fixed-point multiplication and division, and floating-point
to ASCII conversion.
Without going into much detail, the
PIC firmware program works through
the following sequence in making each
measurement:
First it directs the PIC’s 10-bit analogto-digital converter module to take a
measurement of the DC output voltage from
the AD8307 chip. It then converts that into
24-bit floating-point form, after which it
is multiplied with a pre-calculated scaling
factor (24-bit also) for the currently chosen
measurement range. The resulting product
is then divided by the ADC’s full-scale value
of 3FF (in 24-bit FP form), to give the measurement value in what I call the “raw dB”
form. This is essentially a 24-bit number
varying between 0 and 100.
This raw dB value is then used to
calculate the equivalent dBV value, by
subtracting decimal 93 (in 24-bit FP
form) and also the equivalent dBm value
(for 50W impedance level) by subtracting
decimal 80 (again in 24-bit form). These
values are then saved for display but also
used to calculate the actual voltage and
power levels.
The dBV value is used to calculate the
equivalent voltage by first dividing it by
decimal 20 (in 24-bit FP form) and then
raising decimal 10 to that power using
EXP1024, the Microchip 24-bit floatingpoint base-10 exponentiation routine. This
is equivalent to calculating the antilog
arithm, so we end up with the equivalent
voltage value in 24-bit FP form.
After saving this for display, the program then does the equivalent calculation for power, taking the dBm value and
first dividing it by decimal 10 and then
again raising decimal 10 to that power
using EXP1024. This gives the equivalent
power in milliwatts, which is again saved
for display.
Once all four parameters have been
calculated, the final steps of the measurement sequence involve taking each 24-bit
parameter and processing it for display
on the LCD module. For the dBV and dBm
figures, this means working out the correct
polarity indication (+ or -) and then using
a Microchip routine called Float_ASCII
to convert the numbers themselves into
ASCII digits for display.
Things are a little more complicated for
the voltage and power values, because
these must first have their 24-bit binary
exponents analysed to work out their scaling, the position of their decimal point and
the most convenient multiplier to give them
(eg, milli or micro).
After this is done, they are again converted into the equivalent ASCII digits
using Float_ASCII.
As you can see, there’s quite a bit of
mathematical jiggery-pokery involved
but luckily most of this is performed by
Microchip’s fancy maths routines.
The full source code for the firmware
will be available on the SILICON CHIP website, along with the source code for the
floating point maths routines it uses (in
a file called FPRF24.TXT) and, of course,
the assembled hex code of the complete
firmware ready to burn into a PIC.
a PC board track close by.
The 14 main connections to these
modules are all in a horizontal row at
lower left. To make these connections
reliably but in a manner which allows
easy removal and replacement of the
module if this is ever needed, I elected
to use a custom-made 14-way plug and
socket system. The socket was made
from one side of a 28-pin IC socket,
cut away neatly and then mounted
on the top of the main board. To mate
with this socket, I made a plug from a
14-pin length of SIL pin strip, the pins
of which were soldered to the pads on
the underside of the module.
This must be done carefully, so that
there is enough clean length of each
pin extending down to mate with the
socket clips (this is easier to do than
to describe).
Backlit LCD module
This larger-than-life-size view shows how the LCD module is connected to the
main PC board. A 14-pin header is soldered to the LCD module and this plugs
into a matching 14-pin socket strip cut from a 28-pin IC socket.
36 Silicon Chip
If you use the backlit LCD module
(Z-7011A) you will have to connect its
“A” & “K” terminals (for the backlight
siliconchip.com.au
A
A
19
61
16
63 x 16mm
LCD WINDOW
26
63
HOLES A:
3.5mm DIA.,
COUNTERSUNK
7
24.5
D
B
HOLES B:
3.5mm DIA.
CL
HOLES C:
6.5mm DIA.
(RIGHT-HAND
SIDE OF BOX)
24.75
8.25
B
12
HOLE E:
9mm DIA.
17.75
12
(BOX LID)
HOLE D:
11mm DIA.
B
7.5
B
15.25
7.5
E
B
A
A
21
3
C
9.5
11.5
C
9
30.5
CL
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
Fig.6: this full-size diagram shows the drilling details for the plastic case that’s used to house the main PC board. The
large cutouts can be made by drilling a series of holes around the inside perimeter, then knocking out the centre piece
and filing the job to a smooth finish.
LEDs) to the main PC board. This can
be done using short lengths of tinned
copper wire.
Similarly, resistor RBL (18W 0.5W)
is installed only if you are using this
module. It gives a nominal LED current
of about 80mA.
Once all of the components are
mounted on the main board, it can be
placed to one side while you assemble
the head-end board.
Head-end board assembly
The board overlay diagrams for the
siliconchip.com.au
head-end board are shown in Fig.5.
The USB type A socket CON5 mounts
on the top of the board, along with the
two trimpots, three 0.25W resistors
and three 100nF monolithic capacitors. IC1 should be soldered directly
into the board, to ensure an absolute
minimum of input lead inductance.
The remaining surface-mount
components all mount on the copper
side of this board, ie, the two 47nF
input coupling capacitors and the
three resistors used for the RF input
termination. Solder these components
carefully using a fine-tipped iron, using the “tack first to hold it in position”
technique to avoid damaging either the
parts or the board pads.
When you have finished wiring up
this board, place it aside also while
you prepare the meter’s two boxes by
drilling and cutting the various holes
in them. These are all shown in the
drilling diagrams (Figs.6 & 8), so the
job should be quite straightforward.
To complete assembly of the headend unit, first mount the BNC input
connector CON4 in the hole at the
October 2008 37
Table 3: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Value
220kW
68kW
51kW
33kW
10kW
6.8kW
3.9kW
3.0kW
2.4kW
2.2kW
2.0kW
1.5kW
330W
200W
120W
100W
18W
10W
4.7W
Fig.7: when the unit is first turned on,
it displays “Silicon Chip RF Level/Pwr
Meter” as shown at top. The display
immediately above shows typical
level (top line) and power readings.
4-Band Code (1%)
red red yellow brown
blue grey orange brown
green brown orange brown
orange orange orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
orange white red brown
orange black red brown
red yellow red brown
red red red brown
red black red brown
brown green red brown
orange orange brown brown
red black brown brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown grey black brown
brown black black brown
yellow violet gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black orange brown
blue grey black red brown
green brown black red brown
orange orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
orange black black brown brown
red yellow black brown brown
red red black brown brown
red black black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
orange orange black black brown
red black black black brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown grey black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
yellow violet black silver brown
end of the metal box, with the lug of
its earthing washer orientated at “3
o’clock” so that once the mounting
nut is fully tightened, it can be bent
around at 90° ready to be soldered to
the PC board copper (along from the
socket’s centre spigot). Then mount
the head-end PC board upside down
inside the upper part of the box, ie,
with the trimpots underneath and
facing the matching adjustment holes
in the top of the box.
The board is mounted using two
A
M3 x 10mm tapped Nylon spacers as
standoffs, with M3 x 6mm countersink-head screws holding the spacers
inside the box and pan-head M3 x
6mm screws attaching the board assembly to them.
Once the board assembly is mounted
in position, you can solder the centre
spigot and earthing lug to their respective pads on the board to complete the
input connections. The USB cable’s
type-A plug can then be mated with
socket CON5 at the other end of the
B
C
39
(CENTRE LINE)
5
25.5
12.75
A
B
A
13.5
31.5
HOLES A: 3.5mm DIAMETER, COUNTERSUNK
HOLES B: 3.5mm DIAMETER
HOLE C:
9.5mm DIAMETER
7.5
46
5
(UNDERSIDE OF BOX)
(ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES)
Fig.8: here are the drilling details for the metal case that’s used to house the head-end board assembly.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
RF INPUT (Zo = 50)
Pmax = 500mW
RF LEVEL & POWER METER
SILICON
CHIP
SLOPE
ADJUST
LCD
CONTR
SET
5.00V
CAL
OUT
SILICON
CHIP
RANGE
RF LEVEL & POWER METER
SENSOR HEAD
RF INPUT
Zo = 50
Pmax = 4W
(+36dBm)
INPUT
FROM
SENSOR
SELECT
INTERCEPT
ADJUST
POWER
0dBV
SILICON
CHIP
20dB (10:1) RF
ATTENUATOR
(0 – 500MHz)
–20dBV
–40dBV
9–15V
DC INPUT
OUTPUT
Zo = 50
Fig.9: this full-size artwork can used to make the front panels of the various units, including the Sensor Head case
and the optional RF Attenuator (see text). The artwork can also be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website.
The main PC board is attached to the lid of its case via four M3 x 15mm tapped spacers. Four M3 x 6mm countersinkhead screws secure the lid to the spacers, while four M3 x 6mm pan head screws are used to secure the PC board.
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 39
Optional 20dB (10:1) RF Attenuator
board, after which the cable can be
fitted with its P-type clamp, which is
then fastened into the box using an M3
x 10mm countersink-head machine
screw with a nut and lockwasher. The
cable is then looped around and fed
out of the box via a rounded slot cut
in the end and the box lid screwed on
to complete the assembly.
Initial checkout
At this stage you should be ready
to give your RF Level & Power Meter
a preliminary functional checkout,
because this is easiest done before the
main board is attached to the lid/front
panel of the main box. Don’t worry
40 Silicon Chip
27k
INPUT
2.7k
SC
2008
OUTPUT
4 x 1k
16 x 1k
5 x 330
820
P
You will have noticed from the
specification panel that the maximum input level of the basic power
meter is essentially +7.0dBV, corresponding to 2.238V, 100mW into
50W and +20dBm.
As this may be a little low for some
applications, we have designed a
compact 20dB (at 50W) wideband
attenuator which may be used to extend the meter’s range up to 22.38V
(+27dBV) and +40dBm (10W) –
although it may not be able to cope
with 10W of input power for more
than a few seconds if you have to use
0805-type SMD resistors.
SMD resistors are used low parasitic inductance and capacitance
but they do have a fairly low power
dissipation (especially the 0805
size). So try to use the larger 1206
size resistors if you can get them, especially in the input leg. Otherwise
the continuous input power rating
will be limited to about 4W.
Despite this limitation, this attenuator can be built quite cheaply and
would make a handy optional extra
for the meter for those who want to
be able to measure higher RF levels.
Please note, however, that when the
attenuator is connected ahead of the
meter’s head-end, the meter itself
won’t be able to allow for the extra
20dB of attenuation.
This means that you’ll need to
add 20dB to the readings yourself,
although this shouldn’t be too much
of a chore.
10:1 (20 B) RF ATTENUATOR (50, 5W MAX INPUT)
Fig.10: the circuit for the optional 20dB RF attenuator uses a standard pisection configuration. The resistors are all surface mount types.
All you need to do is add 20dB to
the dBV and dBm readings. You will
have to multiply the voltage reading
by 10 and multiply the power reading by 100.
short pieces of tinned copper wire
(leaded resistor lead offcuts) are
used to make the connections from
the earthing lug of each socket to
the earthy side of the board copper.
Construction details
Shield plate
The circuit for the attenuator is
shown in Fig.10 and it is a standard
pi-section type. Everything fits on
a small PC board measuring 95 x
38mm and coded 04210083, which
fits in a second diecast aluminium
box identical to that used for the
head-end.
Fig.11 and the photos show the
parts layout on the PC board.
Note that the board assembly
is supported behind the box lid
simply by soldering the input and
output pads to the “active” spigots
of the BNC connectors. Multiple
As you can see from the internal
photos, the prototype attenuator
has a small shield plate which was
mounted vertically across the centre
of the attenuator, to reduce the possibility of RF energy radiating past
the attenuator pad at the highest
frequencies. This is probably gilding the lily but you may want to add
such a shield to your attenuator also.
It can be cut from a small rectangle of
blank PC board and is supported by
soldering it to four PC board terminal
pins fitted to the earth copper at the
centre of the main board.
if S1 (the range select button) hasn’t
been mounted on the main board at
this stage – it’s not really necessary
for this operation.
To begin, make sure that IC2 & IC3
have both been plugged into their sockets the correct way around and then
set trimpots VR3 and VR4 to the centre
of their ranges. After this, connect the
main board to a suitable source of 9V
DC, either via a battery connected to
the pins at the bottom of the board or
a plugpack lead plugged into CON3.
There’s no need to plug in the lead
from the head-end as yet.
When you apply power via switch
S2, LED1 should light and you should
be greeted by a reassuring glow from
LED1 and “Silicon Chip RF Level/Pwr
Meter” on the LCD, although you may
have to adjust trimpot VR4 before this
message is displayed clearly and with
good sharpness. Note that this greeting
message only lasts for a few seconds,
after which it is replaced by the meter’s
normal display of readings.
If all is well so far, you can now set
the Vref+ voltage at pin 2 of IC3 to
3.50V. This is done with one adjustment. Connect your DMM to TP1 and
its nearby TPG pin and then adjust
trimpot VR3 until you get a reading as
close as possible to 3.50V. This should
also set REG1’s output to close to 5V.
siliconchip.com.au
oo
330
330
330
820
330
1k
1k
27k
1k
1k
330
2.7k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
(INPUT)
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
o
SILICON CHIP 04209083
(OUTPUT)
20dB RF ATTENUATOR
Fig.11: follow this diagram to build the RF Attenuator board. The
copper side of the board carries the SMDs plus four PC stakes to
support the central shield plate (see photos below). The BNC input
and output sockets are mounted on the other side of the board.
Above: because RF signals are involved,
the RF Attenuator must also be housed
in a metal diecast case.
Left: the RF Attenuator board is secured
to the lid of the case via the BNC input
and output sockets. Note how the
central shield plate (consisting of blank
PC board material) is supported by
soldering it to four PC pins in the centre
of the attenuator’s PC board.
Use your most accurate DMM when
making this adjustment because to a
large extent, the accuracy of this setting will determine the accuracy of
your RF Level Meter.
That completes the initial set-up,
although if you have access to a scope
or a frequency counter you may want
to check the PIC’s clock signal at TP2
and its TPG pin. You should find a
5V peak-to-peak square wave with a
frequency very close to 2MHz.
Main box assembly
You are now ready to mount the
main board assembly behind the lid
of the main box (the lid becomes
siliconchip.com.au
the front panel). It attaches to the lid
via four M3 x 15mm tapped spacers
which are fastened using M3 x 6mm
countersink-head screws. The board is
then attached to the spacers using four
pan-head M3 x 6mm screws.
You will need to remove the upper
mounting nut from switch S2 so that
the threaded ferrule of S2 can pass up
through its matching hole in the lid
during this assembly. You also need
to make sure that LEDs 1-3 are positioned so they pass up through their
corresponding holes in the lid.
If you have elected to mount S1 on
the lid before this assembly, you’ll also
need to ensure that its connection lugs
or their extension wires pass down
through their corresponding holes in
the board.
When this part of the assembly is
complete, the top nut for S2 can be
carefully refitted to the top of the
switch ferrule and the lower nut and
its lockwasher underneath carefully
wound up to support the lid.
Your meter’s main board assembly
should now be complete and can be
lowered into the box. This needs to be
done with the righthand side angled
downwards, so that the outer sleeve
of RCA connector CON2 slips into its
hole in the side of the box, allowing
the lid assembly to be swung down as
October 2008 41
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04210081 (146
x 84mm)
1 PC board, code 04210082 (43
x 44mm)
1 Jiffy box, UB1 size (158 x 95 x
53mm)
1 diecast aluminium box, 111 x
60 x 30mm
1 16x2 LCD module, Altronics
type Z-7000A or Z-7011A (with
backlight illumination)
4 M3 x 6mm tapped Nylon
spacers
4 M3 x 15mm machine screws
1 SPST pushbutton switch, momentary (S1)
1 SPDT mini toggle switch (S2)
1 USB type B socket, PC-mounting (CON1)
1 RCA socket, PC-mounting
(CON2)
1 2.5mm concentric DC socket,
PC-mounting (CON3)
1 14-way SIL socket (half of 28pin IC socket)
1 14-way length of SIL terminal
strip
1 18-pin IC socket
1 14-pin IC socket
4 M3 x 15mm tapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 6mm countersunk machine screws
5 M3 x 6mm pan head machine
screws
5 M3 nuts, with star lockwashers
1 M3 Nylon washer
8 1mm-diameter PC board pins
1 PC-mount type A USB socket,
PC-mounting (CON5)
1 panel-mount BNC socket
2 10mm long M3 tapped Nylon
spacers
2 6mm long M3 machine screws
with lockwashers
2 6mm long M3 countersunk
machine screws
1 USB cable, standard type A to
type B
1 P-type 5mm plastic cable clamp
1 10mm long M3 countersunk
machine screw
1 M3 nut, with flat and star lockwashers
well. The self-tapping screws supplied
can then be used to fasten the lid assembly inside the box.
the head-end into CON1 on the main
board, then fit a 50W termination load
plug to the RF input of the head-end
so that it has a nominal RF input of
“zero”. Now turn on the meter’s power
switch (S2) and check the LCD readout
after the greeting message has been
replaced by the normal readings.
Pay particular attention to the dBV
reading, because initially you’ll probably find that it shows a figure rather
higher than it should. After leaving
it for a few minutes for the circuit to
stabilise, try adjusting the “Intercept
Adjust” trimpot (VR2) on the head-end
carefully with a small screwdriver or
alignment tool, to reduce the reading
down to the lowest figure you can –
ideally below -80dBV.
Final adjustment
Now we come to adjustment and
calibration. To do this, you’ll need an
RF signal generator which is able to
supply an RF signal (preferably unmodulated) of known level.
If you don’t have access to such a
calibrated generator, an alternative is
to use an uncalibrated RF oscillator
with another RF measuring instrument of some kind to let you adjust
its output to a convenient level – such
as 1.0V RMS.
The calibration process is quite
simple. First, plug the cable from
42 Silicon Chip
Semiconductors
1 AD8307AN log detector/amplifier (IC1)
1 LM324N quad op amp (IC2)
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller (IC3) programmed with
0421008A firmware
1 LM317T adjustable regulator
(REG1)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
1 3mm orange/yellow LED
(LED2)
1 3mm red LED (LED3)
2 1N4148 diodes (D1,D2)
1 1N4004 diode (D3)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V electrolytic
1 220mF 10V electrolytic
7 100nF monolithic
2 47nF ceramic, 1206 SMD chip
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1MW
3 2.0kW
2 220kW
2 1.5kW
1 68kW
2 330W
1 51kW
2 220W (0805 SMD)
1 33kW
1 200W
1 10kW
1 120W
1 6.8kW
1 100W
1 3.9kW
1 100W (0805 SMD)
1 3.0kW
1 18W 0.5W
1 2.4kW
1 10W
1 2.2kW
1 4.7W
Trimpots
2 50kW mini horizontal trimpot
(VR1,VR2)
1 100W mini horizontal trimpot
(VR3)
1 10kW mini horizontal trimpot
(VR4)
Optional 20dB attenuator
1 PC board, code 04210083, 95
x 39mm
1 diecast aluminium box, 111 x
60 x 30mm
2 BNC sockets, panel-mounting
1 27kW resistor, 1206 or 0805
SMD chip
1 2.7kW resistor, 1206 or 0805
SMD chip
20 1kW resistor, 1206 or 0805
SMD chip
1 820W resistor, 1206 or 0805
SMD chip
5 330W resistor, 1206 or 0805
SMD chip
4 1mm-diameter PC pins
The next step is to remove the 50W
termination plug from CON4 and instead connect a cable from the output
of your RF generator. Set the generator
to some convenient frequency (say
100MHz) and of course with a known
RF level – say 1V (0dBV). It’s then a
matter of adjusting the ‘Slope Adjust’
trimpot (VR1) on the head-end unit –
again with a small screwdriver – until
you get a reading of +00.0dBV on the
LCD.
Once that’s done, your RF Level and
Power Meter is finished, set-up and
ready for use.
Finally, note that you will have to
power this device from a plugpack if
you use the backlit LCD, as the current
SC
is too high for battery power.
siliconchip.com.au
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10/08
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Watch Out For Mura Faults On LCD Panels
While sales of large-screen plasma and LCD
TV sets are booming, people are still confused
as to the choice: plasma or LCD? This situation
has recently become a little clouded as “Mura”
faults become evident on some LCD panels.
The real kicker is that Mura faults may not be
evident when you buy your set.
I am often asked what type of flatscreen television to buy these days.
Should I get an LCD or a plasma display panel? My rule of thumb at this
moment in time (because there are a
lot of new technologies in the pipeline
which will eventually supersede what
we have now) is that for anything
larger than 104cm (42-inches), you
should buy a plasma set; for anything
smaller, get an LCD set.
Mostly this rule is governed by value
for money, as large plasma sets are
cheaper than large LCDs. Each system
has its pros and cons and though there
are many diehards who will not be
weaned from CRT TV, I personally
think the pictures on LCD and plasma
displays are utterly fantastic.
In the history of CRT television, the
price has dropped from the equivalent
price of a house in 1939 to less than a
week’s supply of groceries. The price
of thin flat-panel TVs has dropped
a similar amount but in less than
10 years. Probably due to the lower
voltages used, LCD TVs have smaller
boards than their plasma counterparts
and are therefore more reliable. As
usual, most faults are in the power
supply units, backlight inverter panels
(for LCD sets) and smashed display
panels.
One aspect which should be considered when shopping for a plasma or
LCD set is power consumption. While
big plasma sets have bright, contrasty
pictures, their power consumption
should make you think twice. Typically, a large plasma set will pull 500
watts or more while a large LCD set
will probably be under 200 watts.
Plasma’s high heat output might
be good in the middle of winter but
it will add substantially to your airconditioner’s summer load, so you
effectively pay twice for that big power
draw; first in the plasma set itself and
second, while the air-conditioner
removes all that unwanted heat from
the room.
Look at it this way: watching a large
plasma set in an air-conditioned room
in summer probably means a total
power demand of around 1kW and
even more if your room is lit by an
The dark curved
vertical band
(arrowed) on this
LCD panel is a
typical Mura fault
but other defects
can also occur.
44 Silicon Chip
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Mura faults in LCD panels
NEC PXT42SV1B plasma TV
Acer Veriton 3500 desktop PC
Commodore VL distributor
Sanyo CP14G1(A) TV set
array of 12V 50W halogen lamps. So
do your sums and then think carefully
about it.
Mura faults
Recently, a subtle LCD problem has
been brought to my attention. It is not
always visible and depends a lot on
the luminance intensity.
The effect can briefly be described
as a faint ghost-like film or shadowlike watermark stain defect called a
“Mura”, a Japanese word meaning
blemish, or in the Australian vernacular, “Your Panel is Cactus Mate”. In
any case, it equals a serious hole in
your wallet. An accompanying photo
shows just one effect.
Not to be confused with dead pixel
drop-out, which has four classes and
six sub-categories, Mura is a luminosity variation defect. It’s caused
by process flaws in the cell assembly
which affects the transmission of light
through the display.
There is no standard by the manufacturers for this problem but there is
a 15-phase (algorithm rules), 23-class
scheme of classification.
There are five Mura effects:
(1) Lack of homogeneity.
(2) Cell size and distribution.
(3) Variations in distance between the
sealed panel and the liquid crystals.
(4) Colour filter variations.
(5) Backlighting flaws.
Some Mura effects are there from
new and others develop slowly over
time and are sensitive to heat and
pressure. Some you can even move
slightly with your fingers.
There is software, called “Murasiliconchip.com.au
Tool”, to determine which phase and
class the Mura is. There are also other
software “fixes” that are supposed
to reduce the effects, which are very
subjective. Unfortunately, there is no
permanent fix for Mura other than
panel replacement.
As in the manufacture of watch
movements, LCD panels are not graded
until the manufacturing process is
completed. They are then ranked from
A+ to B- and priced accordingly. When
you buy your LCD, you are not told
what quality your panel is but you
can generally assume that the price
you paid reflects that quality.
As time goes by, there are going to
be interesting subjective judgements as
to what is and what is not acceptable
for a warranty replacement for a Mura
fault. Most people will just have to
live with it, so it is probably best not
to know about it or you will just keep
looking for it!
An intermittent plasma set
An NEC PXT42SV1B plasma TV
came in with the reported fault that it
was dead. I plugged it in and it worked
faultlessly. A week later it was still
working and the client picked it up,
as we just could not fault it.
A week later again and it was back
in with the same complaint. Once
again, it worked for us but this time
we tested it more thoroughly with a
variety of inputs.
After a lot of messing around and
talking to other members of the family, it turned out that the principal
fault wasn’t that the set was dead but
that it intermittently had no picture.
siliconchip.com.au
To begin with, it worked fine on all
sources but gradually we could see
that the picture was dropping out on
AV1 and TV Tuner. The sound was
always OK and it was also OK on
Component Video.
By using another video monitor on
the video output we could see that
the problem was on the CVBS line,
near the video input switching. Using an oscilloscope, we could see the
signal coming out of pin 20 of IC N903
(M52797SB) to surface-mounted transistor V904. However, it wasn’t always
coming out of this emitter follower
(BC847) to pin 2 of X905.
Heating and freezing this small NPN
device confirmed our diagnosis. We
replaced it with an ordinary BC547,
taped down to the PC board, and that
fixed the problem.
Dead PC power supply
If a generic computer comes in
dead and it is the power supply
that has failed, it’s cheaper to buy a
new case and power supply and just
transfer everything into it rather than
buy a new supply or try to fix it. The
other option, of course, is to salvage
a secondhand power supply from a
wrecked computer.
However, a branded PC like the Acer
Veriton 3500 desktop PC which I was
asked to repair recently has a custombuilt case with a miniature power
supply. The supply in this machine
had failed, so there was nothing for it
but to repair it.
When I opened it up on the bench I
found that the 5A fuse had blown but
there seemed to be no other obvious
symptoms. I gingerly connected it to
the AC power via a 150W globe and
when I switched it on smoke was immediately released from a number of
the resistors connected to the power
transistors. A new set of resistors and
transistors plus replacement of all the
low-value electros fixed the power
supply.
Once this was done, I could go on
to address the other fault that it was
booked in for, namely that it was booting up into a low-resolution (640 x
480) display.
My first step was to go to the Settings
tab in the Display Properties dialog but
I found that couldn’t change the resolution from 640 x 480. However, that
wasn’t the only problem. The machine
couldn’t connect to a network, there
was no sound and I couldn’t access
many of the programs even though I
had administrator powers. Reinstalling SP3 made no difference.
I began by copying all the “.inf” and
“.sys” files it was asking for whenever I
October 2008 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
attempted to use the USB drive across
from another computer (via a floppy
disk). Eventually, I got the USB drive
working and then copied across all the
.inf and .sys (driver) directories. This
improved access to some programs and
I was then able to get onto the Acer
website and download all the motherboard drivers for this Acer S88M.
Once these drivers were installed, it
all worked perfectly. But why weren’t
they already installed? I then discovered that the XP installation’s serial number didn’t match the number
printed on the Microsoft label on the
front of the computer.
Replacing the power
switching transistors,
their associated resistors
and all the low-value
electrolytic capacitors
fixed this Acer PC power
supply.
From there, it wasn’t hard to work
out that someone had reformatted the
hard drive and reinstalled XP onto it
but they hadn’t used the original Acer
OEM discs.
Commodore VL distributor
Murphy’s Law (the Fourth Law of
Thermodynamics) broadly states that
“if anything can go wrong, it will”,
and millions are spent every year
by industries attempting to prevent
its consequences. I mention this in
passing, to help illustrate the next
two stories.
A good mechanic friend of mine
had a VL Commodore (1986-88) with
a Nissan RB30-E 3-litre EFI 6-cylinder engine come into his workshop.
The electronic fuel-injection of the
VL Commodore was very advanced
technology at the time, using sequential injection, hot-wire air-mass
sensing and an ignition timing map
incorporated into the ECU (Electronic
Control Unit) instead of centrifugal
and vacuum advance mechanisms on
the distributor.
A crank sensor built into the distributor housing sends signals to the
ECU for fuel and spark timing, along
with RPM information. The sensor
has two separate optocouplers (within
the same housing) which generate six
pulses per revolution and 360 pulses
per revolution from a common slotted
disc (ie, the distributor rotor plate).
The failure rate of these sensors was
high, with most the result of excessive
heat – intermittent operation was the
order of the day.
The optocoupler sensor eventually
became available as a separate part
and was sold as a one-piece plastic
case assembly. To fit the new sensor,
the slotted disc was removed and a
new unit secured with three screws.
This was a very common service fault
in the 1990s.
This particular VL came into the
workshop after a new sensor had been
fitted by another mechanic but the car
now exhibited a misfire on cylinder 5
at engine idle. Further investigation
showed the electronics to be functioning correctly: six nice square wave
pulses per revolution plus 360 square
wave pulses per revolution could be
seen from the second optocoupler.
My friend substituted another complete distributor which cured the
misfiring. So what could it be? Further
inspection revealed that the rotor
plate was located to the distributor
shaft with one flat on the round shaft
(or ‘D’ style) so it could be fitted only
one way – or could it? If this plate is
fitted upside down, the relationship
between the six pulse slots (especially
the wider slot for cylinder 1) is different with respect to the ignition rotor.
Inverting the plate so that it was the
right way up cured the fault.
More Murphy
My next story involves a large wellknown brand of plasma TV. It came
into a friend’s workshop under warranty and the fault was a picture with
46 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
ration to see what would happen.
Well, you can guess what happened.
The set now worked perfectly and
the board was undamaged. He is now
the owner of beautiful plasma set and
everyone is happy!
Why doesn’t Murphy’s Law ever
work like this for me?
Sanyo CP14G1(A) TV set
Above: fitting the Commodore VL
distributor rotor plate upside down
causes misfiring problems.
multi-coloured stripes.
My friend diagnosed the fault as
being on the lower Y-drive board and
ordered another one. Eventually it arrived and he fitted it but unfortunately,
it now gave no picture while the sound
was still OK. Well, was it the new
board or was it the expensive display
panel? The agency was out of stock
of either and so new ones were backordered from the overseas factory.
As time went by, the client became
very frustrated with the delays and
eventually the manufacturer’s agent
arranged to replace the set in conjunction with their insurance company. As
a result, my friend was left with the
old set for spares.
He was about to remove the new
board and send it back for a credit
when he noticed that it was possible
to connect this board upside down.
Seeing that nothing could be lost, he
reconnected it in the opposite configu-
siliconchip.com.au
My next story comes from R. M. of
Ascot Vale, Victoria and concerns a
Sanyo CP14G1(A) TV set. Here’s how
he tells it:
I’m no expert in things electronic.
In fact, I’m mainly self-taught, with
most of my electronics knowledge
derived from reading magazines like
“Electronics Australia”, ETI, AEM
and SILICON CHIP. My first electronics
magazine was EA May 1966 and I’ve
purchased all issues of SILICON CHIP
since issue No.1.
I’ve worked in IT for some time,
including a stint at two radio stations
in Brisbane as their computer technician for about a year. During that
time, I absorbed a lot of real-world
expertise from the technicians at the
stations, fixing and configuring a lot of
non-computer equipment when they
moved studios several years ago.
Anyway, enough of my background.
We have a small Sanyo portable colour
TV – model CP14G1(A) – and it simply failed without warning one night,
going into standby and staying there.
And so, having also built a few projects and fixed a few audio equipment
problems in my life, I thought it was
about time I tackled my first “telly”.
My partner’s diagnosis was that it
was the “redundancy chip” that all
modern appliances now have, which
makes them fail just outside the warranty period. I said that there was no
such thing and that if I could fix the set
then well and good. I am not one who
likes to throw things away if it can be
avoided, particularly if they are only
going to end up as landfill.
When I removed the back, I found
that it was very well made and there
were no components which showed
any visible signs of distress. I applied
power but there was no glowing filament in the CRT, no static from the
EHT and no sound. However, the
standby LED was on and my initial
summation was that either the power
supply was faulty or a protection circuit was shutting the set down.
At this stage, a circuit was necessary
and so I searched the internet, hoping
to find one that I could download free
of charge. Unfortunately though, all
sites required some sort of payment
with no guarantee that the circuit was
a correct.
Feeling somewhat frustrated by
this, I decided that I may as well pay
the manufacturer for the circuit. As
a result, I rang Sanyo on the 1300
number listed on their website and
was put through to the service department. I must say that the service I
received was first class and they sent
me the complete service manual in
PDF format by email immediately,
free-of-charge. They also invited me
to call their technicians if I had difficulty with the repair, an offer that I
was later to take up.
After tracing the circuit, I measured
October 2008 47
Serviceman’s Log – continued
all of the supply rails and found them
to be spot on, the exception being the
B+ rail which was 1.1V high. However,
I didn’t consider this to be a concern
as there was obviously no load on
this rail.
Next, to determine if I had a protection issue, I lifted D467 and found that
I now had working sound and tuner
functions but no picture. What’s more,
the CRT heater was still off and there
was no EHT static. This looked like a
very simple fix – it was obvious that
the horizontal output transistor had
probably blown, as this is the most
likely cause of such symptoms.
Unfortunately, my snap diagnosis
proved to be incorrect because after
replacing the transistor, the situation
was unchanged. It was now time to
analyse the problem more methodically and that meant getting out the
CRO.
The horizontal output section is
quite simple. In fact, many of the
components depicted on the circuit
diagram are not installed in some
models and that was the case with this
set. I printed out enlarged copies of the
sections I needed and obliterated the
48 Silicon Chip
non-installed components. There was
not much left – a couple of capacitors,
two transformers a couple of transistors and that was it.
I knew that the output transistor
was OK as I had replaced it and I
also knew that there was insufficient
heater voltage to light the tube. As a
result, I used an ohmmeter to check
the continuity of the heater, various
output transformer windings and
the yoke. All were continuous
but I had only a vague idea as to
whether the readings I was getting
were OK.
It was time to turn it on and poke
around with it live again. This requires a great deal of caution as there
are bare mains tracks and high DC
voltages over much of the area that
I was interested in. To get around
this problem, I soldered fly leads to
the points I wanted to measure, connected the DMM to these leads and
remotely powered the set to take
readings. All the voltages were
correct except for the heater.
I was aware of the fact that the heater
AC operates at a high frequency and
that this could affect my DMM reading
but the filament wasn’t glowing either.
The CRO revealed a perfectly-shaped
waveform from the collector of the
horizontal driver transistor (Q431) but
this was badly distorted on the other
side of the coupling transformer at
Q432’s base.
So it was beginning to look like a
faulty coupling transformer. However,
before jumping in and replacing it, I
decided to take advantage of the kind
offer to speak with a Sanyo technician.
The person I spoke to was very helpful
and said that they never see this model
in the workshop, probably because for
the cost of a commercial repair you
could have a new set. He also told me
that the problem was most likely the
output transistor.
I told him that I had replaced this
transistor and described the voltages
and waveforms I had seen. He then
suggested that the flyback transformer
was probably faulty so a new one
was ordered. It cost less than $40.00
(including postage) and duly arrived
a few days later.
I’m sure that you can imagine my
disappointment and frustration when
it was installed and there was no
change to the symptoms!
At this stage, I put the set to one side
for a few days while I pored over the
circuit diagram. Was there something
I had missed? I came up with a blank
and eventually decided to ring Sanyo
again to discuss the problem. A different but equally helpful service technician immediately suggested the output
transistor or the flyback transformer.
When I told him that these had already
been replaced, he said that they had
a technician there who was a “guru”
with that circuit and that he might be
able to suggest something.
I spoke to the guru and he immediately suggested the 24LC16B memory
chip which is an I2C device. Apparently, the horizontal output frequency
can differ from the CPU frequency, as
the CPU is clocked by a ceramic resonator which is prone to drift with age.
In response, the CPU writes differing
“offsets” to the memory chip but when
these go outside set parameters the
CPU thinks that the output frequency
has gone haywire and shuts the set
down as part of its x-ray protection.
Because the voltages were OK
around the horizontal output section,
this was the most likely cause. I stated
that I had a good waveform on Q431’s
collector and he asked about its voltage. I was unable to answer as I hadn’t
checked the voltage but I told him that
the waveform looked the same as in the
manual. His response was that while
it might look the same, it’s amplitude
had been diminished by the CPU and
it was this that was causing the horizontal output section to fail.
The best way to fix it would be to
erase the 24LC16B and go through
the setting-up procedure. However,
to ensure reliability, a new blank
EEPROM was the best way to go. It
cost just a few dollars and I immediately fitted it when it arrived a couple
of days later.
And that was it. After firing up the
set and initialising the new EEPROM, I
had picture again. All I had to do then
was spend an hour or so feeding new
settings into the EEPROM to complete
the job.
Of course, this repair would not
have been economical on a commercial basis but I learned a bit about TVs
and saved the set from going to the tip.
As for the “redundancy chip”, perhaps
my partner was closer to the truth than
SC
I care to admit!
siliconchip.com.au
DVR CAMERA KIT WITH 2 X DOME
& 2 X IP56 IR CAMERAS
DVR uses MPEG-4 compression and
comes complete with two mini-dome
indoor cameras and two weatherproof
outdoor cameras with infrared night
vision. Package also includes 4 x 20
metre pre-wired camera
connecting cables and power
supply. DVR is
Pelco-D and
network
compatible and
comes
complete with a
250GB hard drive.
Camera Specifications.
• Resolution
350 TV lines
• Light sensitivity 0.6 Lux
(0 lux with IR)
• Viewing angle 70°
Was $999 While Stocks Last
30FF
%
O
12” 300 WATT FULL
RANGE SPEAKER
Rated at 300 watts RMS
this wide range speaker is
%
ideally suited for use as a
foldback speaker on stage
F
O F
or as reinforcement in an
existing system. The box
features an eight-ohm,
12" sub-woofer for
rumbling bass and a horn
tweeter to give crisp, clear
mid range and high frequencies.
• Frequency Response: 40Hz to 18kHz
• Enclosure Size: 650(W) x 330(H) x 440(D)mm
Was $139
$
699
Cat: QV-3064
A PA system in a box with 3 channels
of balanced and unbalanced inputs
and RCA inputs for an auxiliary
source. The ideal small PA for schools,
sports organisations, churches,
weddings, conferences or solo
acts.
• 12" speaker
• 200WRMS power output
• Dimensions: 600(H) x
410(W) x 325(D)mm
Was $399
28
$
$300
12” AMPLIFIED
PA SPEAKER
99
$
$40
RACE
INTO
BLUETOOTH® CAR KIT
WITH FM TRANSMITTER
Pair this Bluetooth FM transmitter with your
Bluetooth enabled mobile phone and it will
%
transmit voice call signals to your car's FM
OFF
radio allowing you to talk
hands-free. Load your USB
drive or SD/MMC card with
MP3s and plug it in for a
cheaper alternative to a fullblown car audio player
upgrade. 2.5mm plug to 3.5mm plug cable included for
connection to CD
players, iPods or virtually
$
95
any audio device.
Cat: AR-1860
Was $89.95
JAYCAR
for
33
$30
Ideal for network installers or technicians
and allows the user to easily check
cable integrity or measure AC & DC
voltage, etc. without needing to carry
two separate devices.
See catalogue for full
specifications.
• Size: 162(H) x 75(W)
x 44(D)mm
Was $79.95
$
12V 5 STAGE CAR &
MOTORBIKE CHARGER
A truly versatile
%
charger
suitable for
F
O F
wet cell, gel
and AGM SLA
batteries from
1.25Ah to 120Ah.
Computer controlled for optimum
performance and rain proof as well.
• Short circuit & reverse polarity protection
• Anti-spark protection
• 1.8m charging cable, with interchangeable fly leads
• Size: 175(L) x 60() x 45(H)mm
$
95
Was $79.95
25
$20
59
Cat: MB-3604
25F%F
O
$20
CAT II AUTORANGING
DMM
This Cat II DMM is
suitable for voltages
up to 600VAC and
has 15mm high
digits for easy
reference.
Features include:
• Overload
protection
• 10A current
• Diode check
Supplied with:
• Rubber holster
• High quality leads
Was $19.95
ms in-store
* selected ite
50
14.45
59 95
Cat: XC-5078
240VAC UNIVERSAL
BATTERY CHARGER
$14
$100
2 IN 1 NETWORK CABLE
TESTER & DMM
59
An economical unit that can charge Ni-MH
%
batteries as well as Ni-Cd batteries. It has a
discharge function for proper
OFF
Ni-Cd battery cycling and a
battery tester for 1.2 & 1.5 volt
batteries. Recharges
AAA, AA, C, D & 9V
batteries.
• Includes battery tester
for 1.2V - 1.5V cells
• Operates from 240V
50
mains socket
• Energy Authority approved
• 200(W) x 50(H) x 95(D)mm
$
• Will not discharge 9V batteries
Cat: MB-3505
Was $28.95
O
299
Cat: CS-2517
Cat: CS-2516
25F%F
ON SELECTED ITEMS THROUGHOUT OCTOBER
$
Buy 2 for $50
Buy 3 for $60
29
UP TO%
5O0FF
O
$5
$
14 95
Cat: QM-1524
10% OFF ALL OTHER DMM’s
MAINS POWER
METER
Know how much an appliance is costing
to run and track the actual power being
used. Simply plugs into a normal power
point and turns it into a real-time power
monitoring outlet. You can enter the
local price of your electricity and
the meter will tell you exactly how
much the appliance is costing to
run. Also displays instantaneous
voltage or current being drawn
as well as peak levels etc.
• Requires 2 x LR44 batteries
• 10A max rating
Was $39.95
25F%F
CAN SIZED 150W 12VDC
- 230VAC INVERTER
Designed to fit into your car's drink
holder, this can sized inverter alleviates
the need for permanent mounting.
Featuring a 150W output, this inverter
is deceptively small but still has the
grunt to power everything from
battery chargers right through
to your laptop computer.
Was $49.95
$
39 95
20F%F
O
$10
Cat: MI-5121
95
Cat: MS-6115
While Stocks Last - No Rainchecks
1
NEW THIS MONTH
4 Way A/V Stereo
Distribution Amplifier
* selected items
Designed to split a stereo
A/V signal across 4
channels without loss
of image or sound
quality. You can wire
any room where you
would like to access audio and video from a central
source. You can also use it to record to up to four
sources at the same time. 12VDC operated. Mains
plugpack and input cable included.
• Composite video input 1-3Vpp; 75 ohms
• Stereo audio input -20dB; 25k ohms
• 4 x Composite video outputs 1Vpp output; 75 ohms
• 4 x Stereo audio outputs
$
95
• RCA Input & output connectors
• Size: 176(W) x 90(H) x 25(D)mm
Cat: AC-1646
69
2 Way Digital A/V Selector
Excellent 7” monitor featuring a
memory card slot that supports SD,
MMC, MS, XD and CF cards and
USB port so you can interface a
laptop or PC game console. It will play
MP3, MP4, AVI, WMA files & has a
built-in FM transmitter & stereo IR
sound output for use with
headphones etc.
• Overall dimensions (folded):
280(W) x 200(D) x 34(H)mm
Was $249
$70
Retro CD Player with iPod
Docking Station
28F%F
O
$
179
Cat: QM-3764
20F%F
Selector Switches
O
Smart and stylish design that
will suit the home or office,
this unit features a CD player,
iPod not
AM/FM radio, alarm clock,
included
USB port, full function remote
control and an iPod docking station.
What more could you ask for?
• CD, CD-R, CD-RW, MP3 & WMA compatible
• Recharges iPod batteries
• Measures 340(L) x 270(D)
$
x 172(H)mm
Cat: GE-4067
Was $199
2 Way A/V Selector Switch
'Retro' Wooden Stereo AM/FM Radio
If you prefer to use
component video rather than
composite, you can use this
selector to switch between
2 video or coax digital audio
sources.
• 2 component videos input to 1 output
• 2 digital coax audios input to 1 output
• 2 stereo audio inputs to 1 output
$
19
95
Cat: AC-1647
Easy to use AV switches!
Switch between two
composite video &
stereo audio sources.
• Channel separation:
60dB <at> 1kHz
• Cross-talk: 70dB <at> 1kHz
• 135(W) x 50(D) x 32(H)mm
$
9 95
Cat: AC-1650
2 Way A/V Selector Switch with S-Video
The unit accepts 2
sets of composite or
S-video inputs in
addition to stereo audio.
• Cross-talk: 70dB <at> 1kHz
• Channel separation: 60dB <at> 1kHz
• RCA connectors for audio and video
• Dimension: 180(W) x 35(H) x 70(D)mm
$40
159
Stylish wooden-cased
AM/FM radio with a
distinctly 'retro' look but
has a modern high quality
sound through its stereo
speakers at a very
affordable price. A great gift idea for
radio buffs or lovers of all things retro.
• 340mm wide
• 240VAC powered
Was $39.95
$
29 95
Cat: AR-1779
$
16 95
Cat: AC-1651
4 Way A/V Selector
Connect up to four
AV devices such as
DVD players, VCRs
or gaming consoles
with a single output
to your TV and
$
95
switch between
them as required.
Cat: AC-1652
• Composite and S-video inputs
• Dimensions: 190(W) x 112(D) x 47(H)mm
19
6 Way Speaker Selector with
Impedance Matching
Connects up to 6 pairs of
speakers to your
amplifier, and select any
number of those pairs to
play your music simultaneously. The
outputs are all impedance matched to prevent
damage to the output stage of your amplifier.
• Solid metal construction
• Compatible with amplifiers up to 150 watts per channel
• Terminals accept up to 14-gauge wire
$
• Built-in protection circuit
• Dimensions: 285(W) x 180(D) x 55(H)mm Cat: AC-1683
129
2
7" LCD Roof Mount Monitor
with Media Player
$10
Video Enhancer & Stabiliser
with S-Video
Removes additional hidden
signals from commercial videos
and DVDs (such as copy
protection) which can interfere
with picture quality.
• Power supply & RCA cable
included
$
Was $129.95
99
Cat: AR-1822
25F%F
O
in-store
Audio 2 Way Input Switch
With 2 sets of RCA sockets for
input and 1 set for output to
an amplifier, selection is
easy via the
pushbuttons on the
front of the unit.
• Size: 160(L) x 100(D)
x 40(H) mm
Was $16.95
35F%F
O
$
$7
9 95
Cat: AC-1656
Stereo Bluetooth Adaptor
Add Bluetooth capability to
virtually any audio output
device. Just connect your
iPod, mobile phone, CD
player, or anything with a
3.5mm audio socket to the Bluetooth
adaptor & you can transmit stereo
audio signals wirelessly.
• Function range: 10 metres
• Size: 54 (H) x 40(W) x10(D)mm
Was $69.95
28F%F
O
$20
$
49 95
Cat: AR-1854
Dual Alarm Clock Radio
with CD Player
40F%F
O
Wake up to CD, radio or buzzer with
this full-featured clock radio/CD player.
It includes two alarms, large easy-toread green LED display, and battery
backup. Requires 9V battery for
battery backup.
• Programmable CD player with
CD-R/CD-RW playback
• Dual alarms with indicator LEDs
• 3.5mm headphone jack
$
95
• 230(L) x 195(W) x 90(H)mm
Was $69.95
Cat: GE-4061
39
$30
8 Way Speaker Selector with
Impedance Matching
23F%F
O
$30 95
20%
Spread speakers
OFF
all through your
house. Lets you
simply and safely
select which
speakers you want on. The rear terminals are proper speaker
spring terminals - not tiny little screw terminals like on some
of our competitors - and includes an impedance matching
network to keep a constant load on the amplifier.
Power Handling: 100W RMS
$
Was $249
199
$50
Cat: AC-1682
WHILE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER
Active 12" 150W Subwoofer
Add this high-performance powered
subwoofer to your existing
system and add some real
kick to your home theatre
system. The cabinet is finished
in a timber veneer and houses
a 12" driver and amplifier. The
amp is rated at 150 watts
RMS, has auto power-on, level
adjustment, crossover frequency
adjustment, phase reversal switch, high
and line level inputs as well as high and
line level outputs. Line level connectors are gold plated RCA
while high levels are via spring loaded clips.
$
• Frequency response: 20 - 150Hz
• Dimensions: 350 (W) x 440 (H) x 420(D)mm
Cat: CS-2457
199
DJ Mobile 19"
Rack Frame
With a total of 18 units
available, you'll be able to fit
all your rack gear and keep it
completely portable. Ideal for
DJs, PA techs, sound
engineers or guitarists with
large rack setups. The top
section can be rotated through
a range of 45° for maximum
flexibility. Sturdy steel
construction with castors.
• Hardware included
• Dimensions: 530(W) x
1050(H) x 500(D)mm
*Equipment not included
$
79 95
Cat: HB-6348
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
* selected items
Professional DJ's Direct
Drive Turntable
30
%
This excellent turntable
OFF
packs a real punch and
has all the features of
more expensive
turntables, plus a few
extras of its own. Push
button reverse, pitch adjustment, & track lighting,
etc. Even has streaming USB digital & analogue output.
• Mains powered 240VAC 50Hz
$
• 450(L) x 380(W) x 120(H)mm
Was $349
Cat: AA-0495
$110
239
*Bonus FREE Cartridge - Value $49.95
5 Input Stereo DJ Mixer
A quality built; mini sized audio mixer; this is
suitable for most DJ applications.
• Stereo LED VU meter
• 6.35mm headphone
socket with volume control
• Microphone talk over
• Cross fader channels A&B
• Hi gain output to amplifier
• Desk standing or console
mountable
• Measures 330(L) x 122(W) x 39(H)mm
• 1 year warranty
$
• Includes AC plugpack
Was $99
Cat: AM-4200
30F%F
O
69
$30
Mini Disco Set Rotating
Mirror Ball and Spotlight
25FF
%
O
Create a dazzling display of lights and
effects. Consisting of a rotating mini
mirror ball and an adjustable LED
spotlight, you can create a disco
effect to any decorations or displays.
• Mirror ball with motor
power supply: DC 3V or
2 x AA batteries (required)
• Mini LED light
Power supply: DC 4.5
(3 x LR44 batteries included)
Was $19.95
$5
$
14
Cat: SL-2927
'Roadies' Cable Tester
The heavy gauge metal case of this
versatile cable tester will withstand
just about anything the road or the
'roadie' can throw at it. Enables
quick, convenient and reliable
continuity testing of the most
popular types of cables.
• Requires 1 x 9V battery
• 102(W) x 45(H) x 142(D)mm
Was $34.95
95
30F%F
O
NEW THIS MONTH
in-store
DJ Dual CD Player
Great value DJ dual CD
player with more than
enough features for you
to give a professional
showing at your next
party. Grab a set of our party speakers,
an amplifier and away you go!
• 8 times-oversampling 1 bit D/A converter
• 3 different scan speeds
$
• 20 track program play
• 25 second anti-shock
Cat: AA-0490
• Rugged rack mountable chassis
Was $399
Not Available In All
2.4GHz AV Sender/Receiver
50F%F
O
199
$200
Stores
Stereo Pro-Swivel
Headphones
33FF
Cat: AR-1837
Dual Channel AV Sender
O
19 95
$10
Cat: AA-2053
Portable Wireless PA Amp &
Microphone
30F%F
O
The system is ideal for
small public address
applications and consists of a
compact yet powerful amplifier
with a built in crystal locked
radio receiver and wireless
microphone. The mic. is attached to a small ear-hook
gooseneck that allows 'hands free' operation.
• 20WRMS output
• 6 inch speaker
$
• 260(H) x182(W) x 125(D)mm
Was $99
Cat: AM-4075
69
Dynamic Unidirectional
Professional Microphone
69
39
%
These great looking prostyle headphones are ideal
for DJs and other
professionals. They feature
an in-line volume control and
a unique ear cup swivel action.
• 32 ohm impedance
• 40mm driver diameter
• Full range response
$
• 100 dB sensitivity
Was $29.95
Send your audio and video all over the
house wirelessly on the 2.4GHz band.
Use your cable TV, CD, DVD remote
to change channels, volume and
settings from the receiver end of this
2.4GHz system. Send stereo audio
and video pictures around your home,
shop or office, allowing you to watch
video or listen to hi-fi quality stereo
sound anywhere. Send surveillance
$
95
camera images to another part of the
building. All without the need to run cables. Cat: AR-1836
Features a phase-locked loop (PLL) electronic circuit that
constantly adjusts, locking onto any input signal and
avoiding any reception drift.
$
95
Spare receiver
available separately
Allows you to connect two AV sources to the
transmitter, share them around the house, and
select either of them from the other room,
without the hassle of running wires all
over the house. The sender
operates in the 2.4GHz band for
audio and video signals and at
433MHz for the infrared remote
control repeater function. The
sender can be connected to any
two devices such as your TV, Hi-Fi
sound system, video recorder, DVD
player, set top box, or cable TV system.
$
95
A selector button on the receiver allows
selection between the two connected
Cat: AR-1838
devices.
Additional Receivers
$
95
with remote extender
available separately
Cat: AR-1839
89
49
Basic Function
Remote Control
$30
20F%F
O
With professional styling, it features
a cardioid polar
pattern for reduced
background noise and feedback. Ideal for use in theatres,
nightclubs, public address systems and recording. Supplied
with a 4m cable to 6.5mm plug.
• Freq Resp: 60-12 kHz
$
95
• Output Imped: 600ohms
Was $24.95
Cat: AM-4099
All the basic functions you need for
the spare telly.
• Volume, channel up/down, power
on/off, TV/AV etc.
• Battery included
$
95
• Size: 108(H) x 48(W)
Cat:
AR-1707
x 10(D)mm
14
Universal Learning
Remote with A/C Control
NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER
Pre-programmed with thousands of devices, and
able to learn and control up to 8 different
devices. It can also be programmed with two
macro functions and will retain all your data
even if the batteries go flat.
$
95
• Backlit LCD
• Audible reminder
Cat: AR-1726
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
• Dimensions: 200(L) x 55(W) x 26(D)mm
Cup-Holder FM Transmitter
and iPod® Dock
CAT 5/6 HDMI Extender
$
23
95
Cat: AA-0404
$11
19
$5
34
WHILE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
Listen to your favourite iPod tunes
through the FM radio in your car
- dock and charge your iPod ®
at the same time. This unit
stays in your cup holder and
is powered by your car's
cigarette lighter outlet. It's
compatible with most iPod®
models, MP3 players, CD players
and other media devices.
• Last frequency memory
• Backlit LCD
• 82(Dia) x
$
78(H)mm
®
iPod not included
®
69 95
Cat: AR-1869
4 Way AV Component
Distribution Amplifier
Offering the extra
flexibility of
component
video, this
AV distribution
amp allows you to take
advantage of HDTV on digital pay-TV
and free-to-air. Distributes one set of
component and stereo audio inputs to four
outputs. Mains adaptor included.
• Supports up to 1080p resolution
• Power supply: 12VDC 500mA
• 190(W) x 90(H)
$
95
x 23(D)mm
99
Cat: AC-1648
3 Way Audio
Selector
Many audio
amplifiers
don't
provide
enough
inputs for all your
components. Solve that problem easily
with this 3-way audio switcher. It takes up
to three stereo RCA inputs and provides a
single stereo RCA output. Easy-to-use
pushbutton front panel.
• 3 stereo pairs of RCA inputs
• 133(W) x 42(H)
$
95
x 85(D)mm
14
One of the disadvantages of HDMI is
the limited range of cabling
before extenders are
needed. This extender
allows you to
transmit over
Cat 5 or 6
cables, thereby
significantly
reducing cable costs over long
distances. Both unshielded twisted pair
(UTP) and shielded twisted pair (STP) cables
may be used, however
$
shielded is recommended.
Cat: AC-1655
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
129
Cat: AC-1699
3
NEW THIS MONTH
Apache 4 Channel RC Helicopter
Four channels gives you the full range of control up/down, forward/back, bank-left/right & rotate-left/right.
Finished in jungle camo.
• 20 minutes charge gives about 10 minutes flight time
• Rechargeable 7.4V 1000mA Li-Po battery
• Frequency: 40MHz
• Requires 8 x AA batteries
(for controller)
• Recommended for ages 10+
$
169
Wireless Colour LCD Weather Station
Wireless outdoor temperature and hygrometer
sensors transmit data to the LCD receiver
which displays temperature, humidity, heat
index and dew point levels, the time,
barometric pressure and comfort
index, and forecasts the weather
through 5 weather icons.
Outdoor sensors require
5 x AAA batteries.
• Plugpack for main unit
included.
• 170(L) x 95(H) x 50(D)mm
(including stand)
Was $149.95
50FF
%
O
$
$75
Cat: GT-3263
Mini 3 Channel IR Helicopter
Ready to fly chopper that fits in the palm of your hand. A
pre-installed 3 channel proportional wide beam infrared
control system allows you to control the elevation, rotation
and front-back pitch. Stable and easy to fly.
• Charge time of about 20 minutes
gives 6-7 minute flight time
• 160(L) x 80(W) x 130(H)mm
• Suitable for ages 8+
$
* selected items
74 95
Cat: XC-0342
Wireless Weather Station
with Outdoor Sensor
15F%F
O
This attractive home weather station
not only displays current weather data,
it also forecasts the weather
for the next 12 hours and
shows the moon phase as
well as the current time &
sunrise/sunset times.
• Measures indoor and outdoor
temperature & humidity, & air pressure
• Shows temperature, humidity & air pressure trends
• Up to 30m transmission range
$
95
• Indoor display: 225mm wide
Cat: XC-0339
Was $69.95
$10
59
39 95
Cat: GT-3272
Chinook 2 Channel IR Helicopter
Model Boeing CH-47 Chinook IR chopper made of
durable foam to take all the knocks of flying around the
lounge room. Twin dual rotors for stable flight and easyto-use single-handed joystick remote with up/down,
left/right turn controls.
• Recharges in 20 minutes for 8 minutes of flight time
• Remote unit requires 4 x AA batteries
• Size: 210(L) x 130(W) x 165(H)mm
• Recommended for ages 8+
Roll-Up USB Chess Game
Play against the computer or a real opponent.
This game can also suggest moves and
hints if you need a bit of help. You
can even pause or save the game
and come back later. Chess
Board, pieces and software
included. 3 skill levels
• Easy store roll-up board
measures 260mm square
Was $59.95
$20
33F%F
O
$
39 95
Cat: GE-4094
Roll-up
USB Piano
$
This roll-up
keyboard can be used anywhere there's a computer handy. It
has a four octave range, membrane keys and full polyphonic
capability. It also has 135 sounds built in including piano,
organs, strings, horns, woodwind plus sound effects.
• Windows 2000 or XP
• Dimensions: 750(L) x 155(W)mm
%
Was $69.95
59 95
Cat: GT-3261
USB Missile Launcher with Webcam
Upgrade to the latest in workstation weapons.
Co-developed with Microsoft, this USB missile launcher is
equipped with a detachable Webcam and software, which
allows you to communicate via the MSN Instant
Messenger service. Navigate and hone-in on your target
via the on-board crystal clear Webcam for a more
accurate shot. Also now with added sound effects, it will
produce a swooshing sound of a missile
and siren. The fun is endless! Invite
friends from different parts of world
and declare war or remotely log on to
your home machine and blast any
unsuspecting target that comes
too close to your machine!
• 3 foam WMDs included
• Shoots up to 5 metres
• Dimensions: 110(W)
x 125(D) x 185(H)mm
• For full specification see
website
$
89
95
Cat: GE-4084
4
$
49 95
Cat: GE-4076
28FF
O
$20
in-store
30F%F
Pink 18 Piece Tool Kit
with Metal Case
Finally a tool kit that is made
for women! It contains all the
tools we need, none of the
tools we don't need and...
It's PINK!
Includes an easy-to-follow 20
page instruction booklet.
• Matching gloves and
bandana included
Was $59.95
$
O
$20
39 95
Cat: TD-2068
7" Electronic Picture Frame
A fantastic way to show off
your digital images or
movies. You can have
multiple images in a slide
show, a single image, or
thumbnails. You can also
play a backing music track
or show video clips. Power
adaptor included.
• Resolution: 480 x 234 pixels
• Supports: SM, SD, XD, MS & MMC card formats
• Supports: MPEG(1,2,&4) + JPEG
$
Was $179
40F%F
O
$80
99
Cat: QM-3765
TAKE AN EXTRA 10% OFF ALL
DISCOUNTED GIFTS & GADGETS
LOOK FOR THE
PURPLE TICKETS INSTORE
Massager Seat
Cover with Heater
20F%F
O
Enjoy the relaxing massage
action of this seat cover in the
privacy of your own home, in
your car, at work or in the
office. With 6 powerful
massage motors, it will
instantly soothe and relieve
neck, shoulder, back, hip
and thigh problems.
• Mains power adaptor and
cigarette lighter socket
plug are also included.
Was $49.95
$
39 95
$10
Cat: GH-1754
WHILE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER NEW IN OCTOBER
Remote Control
LED Clock with
Temperature Display
LCD Alcohol Tester
Be mesmerised by this amazing
clock! Suitable for waiting rooms or
entrance areas, this tranquil clock is
equally at home in the kitchen or the
$
office. The hours and minutes are
Cat: AR-1796
displayed on the easy to read 70mm
high 7-segment digital display, and the seconds by an
analogue incremental display - a second mark lights up as
each second passes. It can be wall or table mounted and
runs on main power adaptor (included).
• Remote controlled (requires 4 x AAA batteries)
• 12 or 24hr operation with temperature display
• Mains adaptor included • Stand included
• Measures: 280(Dia) x 30(D)mm
129
Don’t get behind the wheel if you're over
the limit. Test yourself first with your own
breathalyser. It takes a reading in less than
five seconds and can sound an alarm
at a preset level.
$
95
• Accuracy of .04mg/L • Backlit LCD
Cat: QM-7296
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
Please note: this product is intended to give an indicative
reading only and is carries no guarantee of accuracy. Jaycar
accepts no responsibility for any consequence arising from the
use of this device.
69
Basic model also available,
which measures up to a
blood alcohol level of 0.2%.
$
29 95
Cat: QM-7298
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
NEW IN 2008
* selected items
28 Hr Digital Voice Recorder
25F%F
This is a stylish digital voice recorder with the
features to match. You can record up to 28
hours of voice messages in manual or automatic
voice activation mode.
• 4 message folders, each folder
can hold up to 99 messages
• Voice activated recording function
• 36(W) x 118(H) x 17(D)mm
$
95
Was $79.95
128MB Digital Voice Recorder
Cat: XC-0277
with USB available separately
XC-0279 Was $119.95 Now $99.95 Save $20
O
$20
59
USB 2.0 Graphics Adaptor
20FF
%
An excellent USB to VGA adaptor that allows
you to connect a second display device and
is perfect for viewing large spreadsheets
or running two different
applications in full screen mode,
without overlapping windows.
• Requires Windows 2000,
XP, or Vista
• Supports resolution up to 1280 x 1024
• USB powered • Software included
• 80mm long
$
Was $99
O
79
$20
Cat: XC-4874
Windows Media Centre
Remote Control
40F%F
O
A Windows Media Centre PC can
revolutionise your home entertainment
and this remote will put you in
command. The remote will let
you control the system as
easily as you now control the
TV. Requires 3 x AAA
batteries • 210mm long
Was $24.95
$10
$
14 95
Cat: XC-4889
25F%F
MPEG-4 Media Player
O
This fantastic player will accept hard
drives up to 500GB so you can store
and play a massive volume of music or
movies etc. It has composite, S-Video
and component video output with
stereo and digital (SPDIF) audio output
and will play MPEG movies, MP3
sound and JPG images. Connects to
your computer via USB. Hard drive
not included.
• Power supply: 1m USB lead, 1.5m AV
lead and stand included Was $199
$50
$
149
Cat: XC-4866
USB Optical Mouse/Skype Phone
Looks just like a normal USB optical wheel
mouse, but if you flip up the lid you'll find a fully
operational Skype phone. The phone works with
common VoIP systems and allows you to make
free calls to other computers & low
cost calls to landlines & mobiles.
• Choice of ring tones
$20
• Hands-free speaker phone
• Fully functional keypad and LCD
• VoIP service cost vary. Please check with
your service provider.
Was $59.95
USB Missile Launcher Mk II
With full 360° control you can fire at
someone up to 7m away. Software
is included which provides
precision control and full sound
effects. Also includes a target
for practice and honing your
skills. Ready! Aim! Bullseye!
• 3 soft foam missiles
• Stands
This month only
buy a Missile Launcher
120mm high
and get 1 packet of
Was $59.95*ORRP
SPARE MISSILES
33FF
%
O
$20
Two versatile UHF transceivers with all 38
legal channels utilised as well as CTCSS sub
channel calling, auto muting & scrambling.
Range of accessories available for both.
20FF%
O
Cat. DC-1045
With a 1.5W hi-power mode for up to 8km
range and 500mW power saving mode and features dualwatch, VOX, and a built-in stop watch. Was $89 Now $69
Cat. DC-1060
$20
USB Missile Launcher
$
39 95
Cat: XM-5136
30F%F+
O
O
$
NEW IN 2008
149 Piece Pink Tool Set
Everything the handy woman could
ever possibly need. Finished
in bright pink, the kit
contains a hammer, long
nose pliers, multigrips,
tape measure,
screwdrivers, shifting
spanner, shears, driver with
20 bits, 8-piece Allen key set, 6 jewellers’
screwdrivers plus an assortment of nails, screws and
other fasteners. Includes an easy-to-follow How-to
20 page booklet on each tool
and common household tasks.
$
95
• Case measures: 250(W) x
Cat: TD-2075
322(H) x 65(D)mm
39
NEW IN 2008
NEW IN 2008
These allow you to greatly extend your cable
range using conventional Cat 5e cable, enabling
you to increase the propagation distance or pipe
your A/V signals over standard network cable runs.
Three types available
for complete flexibility:
Component Video
& Digital Audio
Cat. QC-3682 $44 95
Composite Video & Audio
Cat. QC-3684 $49 95
Rhinestone USB Keyboard
Cat: GE-4074
This stylish pink and white rhinestone keyboard features 21
hot keys including 3 ACPI keys for easy access to the
Internet, email and multimedia applications. Compliment it
with some of our other desktop Bling items such as the USB
mouse, tape dispenser, calculator and more for the desk
every woman craves. Compatible with
Windows 95/98/ME/NT/XP
$
95
• Measures: 460(L) x 180(D)mm
49
Cat: GH-1899
USB Bluetooth Dongle Class 1
$20
Cat: GE-4072
NEW IN 2008
Cat 5 Video/Audio Extenders
34 95
WHI LE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
NEW IN 2008
149
$25
O
29 95
10FF%
Just clip this handy bit of kit to any A4 piece of
paper, start writing or drawing and
everything you enter will
be captured electronically
and stored in
your
computer.
Includes Notes Manager
software so you can edit, e-mail and
organise your notes, drawings and sketches. Ideal for
students or in the office. Full mouse
$
functionality when working online
• Standard off-the-shelf ink refills
Cat: XC-0355
Cat. QC-3680 $39 95
40FF%
Missiles locked and loaded! The launcher is
connected to your PC via USB port, and the
software is included to navigate the missiles
trajectory, the launcher pans 180 and
tilts up to 45 degrees. It will launch the
missiles with realistic sound effects! The
missiles are made from harmless soft
foam so it is safe to use at home or in
the office. Software compatible with
Windows 2000 and Windows XP.
• Spare rockets available GE-4073
• Requires 3 x AA batteries
Was $49.95 *ORRP
$
Infrared Digital Pen & Notetaker
Component Video
FREE!
38 Ch UHF CB Radio with
Scrambler & CTCSS
Up to 10km Transmission Range. Max
output is 3 watts with 1W battery saver
mode. Supplied with a high gain (168mm)
antenna fitted with an SMA connector
to allow the use of external antennas.
Was $169 Now $149
in-store
NEW IN 2008
Hydrocar Educational Clean Energy Kit
The Hydrocar generates electricity by consuming hydrogen stored
in the on-board cylinder. The hydrogen reacts with oxygen which is
also stored on the car. Unlike fossil fuels, hydrogen power produces
0% emissions and could be viable alternative. The
kit includes everything you need to build your
own Hydrocar and learn about this revolutionary
energy technology. Come complete with
comprehensive, easy to read
instruction manual.
• Requires 2 x AA batteries
• Car measures: 220mm long
• Recommended for ages 12+
• NOTE: Use DISTILLED water - any
$
other kind will destroy the membrane
129
Long range wireless connectivity. Convert your PC to
Bluetooth quickly and easily. Communicate with
phones, PDAs, headsets and other devices. Fast data
transfer, V1.1, V1.2 and V2.0 compliant.
• Range: up to 100m
• Transfer rate: 3Mbps
$
95
• Operating system: Windows 98,
Cat:
XC-4896
ME, 2000, XP
29
Universal 90W Laptop Power
Supply with LCD
This laptop power supply has
adaptors to fit the major
manufacturers' power
sockets. It also displays the
output voltage and automatically
adjusts the output for the
adaptor used.
• 138(L) x 58(W) x 37(H)mm
• Will charge newer Dell model Laptops!
Cat: KT-2526
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
$
59 95
Cat: MP-3474
5
NEW IN 2008
USB Digital Storage 40MHz
2 Channel Oscilloscope
* selected items
A PC-based digital storage 'scope
for less than the cost of an
analogue CRO. PC-based
instruments are the way to go smaller, lighter and cheaper, they offer as-good or better
performance than the analogue equivalents, with the
advantages digital operation offers, such as trace storage
and memory capability. Probes included.
• AC or DC coupling
$
• Storage formats: .txt, JPEG, BMP,
MS Word or Excel
Cat: QC-1931
• Size: 188(L) x 98(W) x 30(H)mm
499
Solar Hydrogen Generation Kit
Another truly excellent educational
alternative energy kit. Learn all about
the finer points of hydrogen and solargenerated emission-free energy. The
kit contains everything you need to get
your own solar hydrogen experiment up
and running. Instant renewable
energy - just add distilled water.
Kit contents:
• 1 watt solar panel, cables, 0.3 watt fuel cell, hydrogen
& oxygen tanks, gas container, tubing & syringe
• Comprehensive instruction booklet
$
95
• Solar panel size: 155(L) x 125(W)mm
• Recommended for ages 12+
Cat: KT-2524
99
Keycase Mini Driver Set
Handy set of mini bits and driver in
a convenient key-sized
storage case.
$
95
12 bits:
Flat: 1.5, 2, 2,5mm
Cat: TD-2105
Phillips: 1.5, 2, 2,5mm
Torx: T5, T7, T8, T9. T10
Case size: 95(H) x 60(W)mm
14
Ultra-Low Distortion 135WRMS
Amplifier Module Kit
This ultra low distortion amplifier module
uses the new ThermalTrak power
transistors and is largely based on
the high-performance Class-A
amplifier which was featured in
SILICON CHIP during 2007. This
improved circuit has no need for a quiescent
current adjustment or a Vbe multiplier transistor and has
an exceptionally low distortion figure. Kit supplied with
PCB and all electronic components. Heat sink and power
supply not included. Output Power: 135WRMS into 8
ohms and 200WRMS into 4 ohms
$
95
Freq Resp at 1W: 4Hz to 50kHz
Cat:
KC-5470
Harmonic Distortion: <0.008% from
20Hz to 20kHz
89
6
50F%F
O
A professional meter jam-packed
with features, it is virtually
indestructible, with overload
protection on all ranges. It also
boasts a lifetime warranty. Features
include capacitance and frequency
test, auto/manual ranging,
analogue bargraph, temperature,
data hold & more! Was $379
$190
$
189
Cat: QM-1625
10% OFF ALL DMM’S
Explore the wonders of Science with these easy to
build and fun to learn kits. 25 projects to choose
95
from. Suitable for ages 8+.
Liquid-Powered Clock Cat. KJ-8850
• A high-tech experiment introducing young minds to
electrical energy & basic chemistry.
Balloon Racer Cat. KJ-8860
• Discover the concept of propulsion while building a
racing car.
ALL KITS
Robotic Ball Collector Cat. KJ-8870
Were $9.95ea
• Assemble a robot and gain a practical
NOW $6ea
understanding of robotic fundamentals.
Microscope with Accessories Cat. KJ-8880
• Construct a working microscope and learn how to
make a prepared specimen slide.
Volcanic Eruption Cat. KJ-8890
• Find out why volcanoes erupt and how the
pressure is derived from magma and gas.
Balloon
Racer
Microscope
with
Accessories
Liquid
Powered
Volcanic
Clock
Eruption
$3
29
$70
25F%F
The powerful 130 watt variable speed
240VAC motor and a comprehensive
array of tools make this hobby
grinder/drill kit one of the most
versatile around.
• 240VAC operation
• Speed range 8,000 to 30,000RPM
• Thumb-wheel speed control
• Case size: 260(W) x 300(H) x 60 (D)mm
Was $79.95
O
$20
$
59 95
Cat: TD-2454
Two Speed 'T' Bar 4.8V
Cordless Screwdriver
33F%F
O
The clever design minimises slippage
or head damage while the T-bar handle
gives you precise control.
The power button falls
naturally under your thumb
and is easily operated for
long periods without fatigue.
• Overall length 200mm
$
95
• Mains charger include
Was $29.95
Cat: TD-2492
19
Temperature Controlled
Soldering Station
Robotic Ball
Collector
For crimping F, N, BNC, TNC, UHF, ST,
SC & SMA connectors
onto coax cable.
Adjustable crimping
force and ratchet
mechanism for repeatability. Four hex crimping
dies: 1.72mm, 5.49mm,
$
95
8.23mm and 9.14mm.
Cat: TH-1833
Was $39.95
279
148 Piece 240 Volt Precision
Grinder/Drill Set
Electrical Science Kit Experiments
Hex Ratchet Crimping Tool
O
Velleman Personal Oscilloscope is a complete
portable unit at the size and cost of a good
multimeter. Features include high contrast
LCD with wide viewing angle, full automatic
setup for volt/div & time/div; true RMS and
dB measurements, screen hold function; low
battery detection and auto power off.
Ask in store for full details.
Was $349
$
Cat: QC-1916
KITS FOR 40% OFF FULL RANGE
KIDS
OFF SCIENCE TIME KITS
20F%F
10MHz Personal LCD HandHeld Oscilloscope
25F%F
O
$10
$10
33F%F
O
The soldering station features a
high quality ceramic heating
element for accurate temperature
control, which is adjustable
between 200 and 480°C. The
soldering pencil is light weight,
making it comfortable for use
for extended periods.
• Temp. Range: 200 - 480°C
• Accuracy: +/-10°C
$
Was $99
$30
69
Cat: TS-1560
WHILE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
AUTOMOTIVE KITS AUTOMOTIVE KITS AUTOMOTIVE KITS AUTOMOTIVE KITS AUTOMOTIVE KITS
Power Supply Kit for
Ultra-LD Mk2 200W
Amplifier (KC-5470)
The amp module (KC-5470) is
powered using an unregulated
rail only. This power supply
kit is specifically
designed to provide a
balanced +/- 55VDC
supply to power this
fantastic amp kit. It has two LEDs,
which illuminate when power is
present on the rails and the assist in
slowly discharging the filter caps
when power is switched off.
• Kit includes PCB
& all electronic
components.
True RMS Commercial
Grade DMM
in-store
Hand Controller for
Digital Adjusters
$
54 95
Cat: KC-5471
Digital Fuel Adjuster
This LCD hand controller is
required during
the initial set-up
procedure. It
plugs into the
main unit and can
be used while the engine is
running or stopped. You can set all the initial
parameters and also program the ignition
advance/retard curve. Kit supplied with silk
screened & machines case PCB, LCD & all
electronic components.
• Must have all D25
$
95
pins connected.
59
Cat: KC-5386
Ref: Performance Electronics for
Cars - Silicon Chip Magazine.
Gives you complete
control of the air/fuel
ratio at 128 points
across the entire
engine load range and
provides incredible mapping
resolution and brilliant
drivability. It uses the Handheld
Digital Controller - KC-5386 (available separately) so there is
no need for a laptop. Supports both static and real-time
mapping. Kit supplied with a solder masked PCB with overlay,
machined case with processed panels,
$
95
programmed micro & all
electronic components.
79
Cat: KC-5385
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
NEW IN 2008
* selected items
25F%F
4 Stage 12V Battery Charger
Maintain your battery in top condition with
this intelligent 12V SLA mains
charger. The charger
features LED status indicators
and incorporates a four stage
charging system that
automatically switches to
maintenance mode once the charge is
complete. Fully protected.
• 175 (W) x 140(L) x 50(H)mm $
Was $119.95
O
$30
89 95
Switchmode Dual Stage Lead-Acid
Battery Float Chargers
These fully automatic chargers use
switchmode technology to
efficiently charge high capacity
sealed and unsealed lead acid
batteries. Simply plug them onto the battery
and forget - the batteries will fast charge, then
automatically switch to float (trickle) charge
when full.
20FF
%
O
Now
$63.95
$79.95
$79.95
Save
$16
$20
$20
Plugs into a vehicle's cigarette lighter socket and lets you
recharge your cordless drill on a building site or your
rechargeable RC models when you don't have mains power
or a generator. Automatic battery voltage detection. Manual
charge current adjustment • Discharge button
• LED charge status indication
%
• Reverse polarity,
short-circuit &
OFF
overload protection
Was $59.95
20
$
30F%F
O
$
The powerboard has 4 normal
outlets and 4 more in a master
slave set up. When the device
connected to the master outlet
is turned on, it automatically
turns on the 3 slave outlets. Great for computers,
peripherals or home theatre systems etc. Also
includes phone line protection.
• Surge and spike protected
$
95
•10A total loading with resettable circuit
breaker
Cat: MS-4062
Was $59.95
$12
This rugged inverter will deliver 600
watts of continuous power and is
ideal for running a 68cm TV,
kitchen appliances, or
fluorescent lamps from a 12V
DC supply. Electrically isolated.
242(L) x 91(W) x 58(H)mm
$
Was $229
17F%F
O
$40
189
Cat: MI-5108
50% OFF TOGGLE SWITCHES
LOOK FOR THE BLUE TICKETS INSTORE
12VDC & 240VAC Smart
4%F
Battery Charger
2
This microprocessor controlled
OF
charger will accept a
combination up to 10 x AA or
AAA cells and 2 x 9 Volt Ni-MH
or Ni-Cd batteries. The integrated discharger
can help minimise memory effects and negative Delta V
sensing unsure maximum battery life. Includes charging
timer. Individual LEDs show
$
95
battery status.
• 220mm wide
Cat: MB-3551
Was $59.95
44
12/24V 30A Solar Power Controller
Cat: MB-3630
Free power from the sun.
Charges 4 x AA Ni-Cd
batteries anywhere. Ideal
for camping, boating, or
other remote locations.
• Size: 67(W) x 30(H)x 96(D)mm
Was $21.95
O
$15
47 95
Solar Battery
Charger
8 Way Powerboard with
Master/Slave Control
600W 12VDC to 230VAC
Modified Sine Wave Inverter
12V Charger for Ni-Cd/Ni-MH Batteries
$12
20F%F
47
Cat: MB-3624
Was
12V <at> 6A Cat. MB-3610 $79.95
12V <at> 12A Cat. MB-3612 $99.95
24V <at> 6A Cat. MB-3614 $99.95
in-store
14 95
$7
Cat: MB-3502
Maintain your battery
system in peak
condition with this
excellent charge
controller. It features
30A capacity, temp.
compensation & full
overload protection. Multi-mode operation.
• Battery capacity: 50 - 5000Ah
$
• 162(L) x 148(W) x 58(H)mm
Was $229
Cat: MP-3124
199
13F%F
O
Rechargeable 35W
HID Spotlight
If you need serious
light power, HID is the
only way to go.
Compared with quartzhalogen, HID has far
longer bulb life, uses less
energy and is much brighter. With a pounding 3300
lumens, this spotlight is ideally suited to search and rescue,
boating, professional shooters, security or other highpower applications. It's housed in a tough weather-resistant
ABS housing and has a handy shoulder strap for extended
use. The built-in rechargeable battery gives about 50
minutes of continuous use and it recharges either from the
mains plugpack or a car cigarette lighter socket. 12V, 35W
• Battery: 12V 7AH rechargeable lead acid
• Mains adaptor: 15VDC 500mA
$
• Dimensions: 300(L) x 210(Dia)mm
149
Cat: ST-3369
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
These inverters provide clean
230VAC power to run
sensitive electronic
equipment such as
clocks, TVs, electronic
From
scales, etc. from your
$199
car's battery. We have
models suitable for running
your laptop in the bush to powering a small microwave in
a motor home. They have fan assisted cooling and
electrical isolation for safety.
180 WATT MI-5160 • Power surge 300W
• Weighs 1kg • 240(L) x 119(W) x 60(D)mm $199.00
380 WATT MI-5162 • Power surge 650W
• Weighs 1.1kg • 240(L)x119(W) x 60(D)mm $229.00
600 WATT MI-5164 • Power surge 1000W
• Weighs 1.4kgs • 300(L) x 119(W) x 60(D)mm $349.00
Powertech Monocrystalline
Solar Panels
These monocrystalline panels are more efficient
than polycrystalline panels and are as strong and tough as
the better known brands, but at a more attractive price.
Sizes range from 5 watts to a massive 175 watts.
5W
Cat. ZM-9091
10W
Cat. ZM-9093
20W
Cat. ZM-9094
65W
Cat. ZM-9096
80W
Cat. ZM-9097
120W Cat. ZM-9098
$
175W Cat. ZM-9099
99
Cat: ZM-9091
$30
$
AUTOMOTIVE KITS
Mixture Display Kit For Fuel
Injected Cars
NEW IN 2008
$
NEW IN 2008
This very simple kit will
allow you to monitor the
fuel mixtures being run by
your car. This type of sensor is also known as an E.G.O.
(exhaust, gas, oxygen) monitor. You can use it as a tuning
tool, to help in vehicle modification or simply to see the
behaviour of the engine control module. Indication is via 10
LEDs to show mixtures rich, lean and normal. The circuit
connects to the EGO sensor mounted in the exhaust
manifold and the cars battery.
$
95
• PCB, LEDs & components supplied.
14
Cat: KC-5195
$
If you lose your air conditioner's remote
control there's no need to wait for the
manufacturer to send you a replacement.
This unit identifies over 40 preset popular
air conditioning brands with digital
searching, but will also auto-search for
other brands not so commonly used. With
a 3-step set up it's so easy to use your
air conditioner will be operational in next
to no time.
• Easy 3-step set up
• Requires 2 x AAA batteries
• Dimensions: 130(H) x 55(W) x 22(D)mm
699
239
Cat: ZM-9094
Cat: ZM-9097
Universal Air Conditioner
Remote Control
Refer: Silicon Chip
November 1995
THOUSANDS SOLD!
NEW IN 2008
$
Cat: ZM-9093
WHILE STOCKS LAST - NO RAIN CHECKS
AUTOMOTIVE KITS
149
549
Cat: ZM-9096
$
$
19
95
Cat: AR-1729
1,050
Cat: ZM-9098
Note: Pictures may vary
from models shown
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
$
1,399
Cat: ZM-9099
7
* selected items
HID TORCHES
RECHARGEABLE
20FF
O
Burn time over a 100mins and is
housed in a sturdy
weatherproof aluminium
casing.
• Supplied with car and
$
mains chargers, lanyard
& filters for varying
Cat: ST-3362
applications.
• Dimensions: 72(Dia.) x 380(L)mm Was $449
349
$100
$100
• Serves as a hand or head-lamp
• Will run continuously for over
115mins on a single charge.
• Waterproof
• Includes both car and mains charges
• Torch size: 80(L) x 50(dia)mm
Was
$
$349
279
8 ZONE 2 PARTITION
ALARM PANEL
Limited Stock - No Rainchecks
LOW COST RFID ACCESS
CONTROL KEYPAD
A low cost RFID unit that is designed to control
door strikes in home or business installations.
It allows access by RFID card, password, or a
combination of both. Push button exit and
duress output signal. 12VDC powered.
• Read range: 140mm(Max.)
• Operating temperature:
-15°C to 55°C
• Housing material: ABS
• RFID tags to suit:
Key Fob Type - Cat. ZZ-8950
Credit Card Type - Cat. ZZ-8952
Lanyard Type - Cat. ZZ-8953
Was $79
$
39
Cat: LA-5124
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02)
Alexandria
Ph (02)
Bankstown
Ph (02)
Blacktown
Ph (02)
Bondi Junction Ph (02)
Brookvale
Ph (02)
Campbelltown Ph (02)
Erina
Ph (02)
Gore Hill
Ph (02)
Hornsby
Ph (02)
Liverpool
Ph (02)
Newcastle
Ph (02)
Penrith
Ph (02)
Rydalmere
Ph (02)
Sydney City
Ph (02)
8
50F%F
O
6021
9699
9709
9678
9369
9905
4620
4365
9439
9476
9821
4965
4721
8832
9267
6788
4699
2822
9669
3899
4130
7155
3433
4799
6221
3100
3799
8337
3121
1614
ExView CCD-equipped camera
dramatically improves
low-light performance.
With 8 protection zones including
%
2 zones for panic and duress
alarms, the control panel is
OFF
designed for home and office
protection. The system gives
local alarm warnings and
is supplied with one
alarm control panel and
one master control
keypad. Programmable
user codes, delays and alarm duration.
• Operating voltage: 16-18VAC
• Entry delay: 15 - 90 seconds • Exit delay: 60 seconds
• Alarm duration: 3 - 5 minutes or unlimited
• Alarm outputs: 12VDC, 2.5A
• Backup battery: 12V, 7.2Ah available separately SB-2486
• Suitable 16-18VAC plugpack: MP-3022
Dimensions: Control panel - 168(W) x 168(H) x 78(D)mm
Keypad - 117(W) x 117(H) x 27(D) mm
$
Was $199
25
15F%F
• Flickerless
• Auto Iris Control
• Automatic White Balance
• Back Light Compensation
• 2 Stage Automatic Gain Control
• High Speed Electronic Shutter
O
$40
Sensor: 1/3" Sony ExView HAD CCD
Sensor resolution: 380 Horizontal TV Lines
$
500 x 582 pixels
Min illumination: 0.05 lux
Cat: QC-3298
Power requirements: 24VAC/12VDC
Power consumption: 5W / 295mA Max Was $249
209
4 INPUT USB VIDEO
RECORDER
4eyeGrab is a surveillance device that allows
you to record 4 camera inputs at the same
time on a PC. It connects to the USB 2.0
port and makes real-time monitoring a breeze
with 4 composite video inputs
to accept any camera.
Cameras not included.
• Single/four screen
display
• Camera ID, date & time display
Was $149
$
99
30F%F
O
$50
Cat: QV-3081
COLOUR CAMERA KITS
2 WIRE CONNECTION
A simple 2 wire combined arrangement for
power and video make this system a snap to
%
install. The system uses a CMOS image sensor
with 350TV line resolution. The main unit will
OFF
automatically sense signal cable tampering or
incorrect wiring and alert you with a warning signal.
Kit includes camera, system unit, 25m of connecting cable,
& mains adaptor. • CMOS sensor • 350 TV lines
Two versions available:
• Colour Dome Camera Kit Cat. QC-3264
• Outdoor IP56 rated Colour Camera Kit Cat. QC-3266
30
$50
149
$40
Australia Freecall Orders: Ph 1800 022 888
EXVIEW HAD COLOUR CCD
CAMERA - PRO STYLE
399
$80
Cat: ST-3366
$70
20
HID Rechargeable Head Torch
269
Cat: QV-3098
Add a monitor and you have a
complete surveillance system.
With 2 or 4 colour IR cameras,
this processor turns any
standard TV or monitor into a
multiplexer. Displays a single camera view, or
%
multiple combinations of different camera
views including one or two picture-in-picture
F
F
O
or automatic sequencing. Supplied with remote
control. Size: 105(L) x 85(W) x 55(H)mm
Two versions available:
• Two colour CMOS cameras
$
plus Quad Processor Unit
$70
Cat: QV-3095
Was $349
• Four colour CMOS cameras
$
plus Quad Processor Unit
$100
Cat: QV-3099
Was $499
For serious outdoor and underwater
lighting - Up to 50m underwater.
Was $449
Cat: ST-3364
279
QUAD PROCESSOR &
COLOUR CAMERA KITS
21W Waterproof HID
Rechargeable Torch
349
Surveillance on a budget. It works by recording images to an
SD memory card as JPEG or video AVI
when motion is detected. View the events
%
on a monitor or any media player that
accepts SD cards.
OFF
Two cameras are
included with IR
LEDs for night use.
Mains adaptor included.
• 195(L) x 135(W) x 45(H)mm
Was $349.95
$
95
20
24W HID Rechargeable Torch,
$
DIGITAL SURVEILLANCE
EVENT RECORDER
%
These are the brightest torches we have ever
seen. They use the same Hi-Intensity Discharge
(HID) technology that is used in expensive
European luxury car headlights to produce a
staggeringly bright beam that seems to go forever.
Three models are available.
IN OCTOBER
in-store
Was $149.95
$20 95
Cat: LA-5361
Taren Point
Tweed Heads
Wollongong
VICTORIA
Coburg
Frankston
Geelong
Melbourne
Ringwood
Springvale
Sunshine
Thomastown
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Cairns
Ipswich
Maroochydore
Mermaid Beach
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Ph (07) 5524 6566
Ph (02) 4226 7089
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
9384
9781
5221
9663
9870
9547
9310
9465
1811
4100
5800
2030
9053
1022
8066
3333
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
(07)
(07)
(07)
(07)
(07)
3863
4041
3282
5479
5526
0099
6747
5800
3511
6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
Woolloongabba Ph (07) 3393 0777
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
Gepps Cross
Ph (08) 8262 3200
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Maddington
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Midland
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Northbridge
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
$
129
Was $229
$80
Cat: QC-3264
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch Ph
Dunedin
Ph
Glenfield
Ph
Hamilton
Ph
Manukau
Ph
Newmarket
Ph
Palmerston Nth Ph
Wellington
Ph
Freecall Orders Ph
$
149
Cat: QC-3266
(03) 379 1662
(03) 471 7934
(09) 444 4628
(07) 846 0177
(09) 263 6241
(09) 377 6421
(06) 353 8246
(04) 801 9005
0800 452 9227
Prices valid to
31st October 2008
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
S1
1N4148
220k
220k
3.3M
2
3
7
6
IC1
10 F
16V
K
VR1
500k
IC2: 4093B
4.7nF
1
D1 1N4148
IC2a
3
2
4
33k
A
5
K
A
IC2b
4
9
6
7
IC1: CA3140
220k
This circuit was designed to test
an ultrasonic rangefinder but could
also be used to test car reversing
sensors or any other device based
on 40kHz ultrasonic transducers. It
uses a 40kHz transducer as the input device and its received signal is
amplified by op amp IC1 which has
a gain of 100, as set by the 33kW and
4.7nF
siliconchip.com.au
12
9V
BATTERY
IC2d
13
IC2c
3.9M
11
22k
nal. The resultant positive signal is
fed to Schmitt trigger IC2b which
switches its pin 4 output low when
signal is present. This is inverted by
IC2c which then gates on oscillator
stage IC2d. This runs at about 5kHz
to drive a piezoelectric transducer.
The current consumption is only
a few milliamps and can easily be
supplied by a small 9V battery.
Graham Jackman,
Oakleigh East, Vic. ($40)
D1 1N4004
A
OPTO1
MOC3021
K
VR1
100k
2
4
L1
A2
TRIAC1
BT137X
4
G
A1
220
1k
100
A
1
1 F
16V
240V LAMP
680
6
1
USB IN
PIEZO
SOUNDER
1.8nF
3.3MW resistors. Its output signal is
then squared up by IC2a, the first
gate of a 4093 quad Schmitt trigger.
IC2a is biased by trimpot VR1 to
a point just below that required to
give a positive output at pin 3, when
no signal is present.
When a signal is received, the
resulting 40kHz square-wave from
IC2a is rectified by diode D1 which
charges a 4.7nF capacitor to detect
the very short bursts of 40kHz sig-
USB-controlled
desk lamp
This circuit will switch on a
240VAC-powered desk lamp whenever it is dark and your PC or laptop
computer is on. It uses the 5V rail
from the USB outlet to control the
circuit.
This 5V rail is fed via diode D1 to
optocoupler OPTO1 and transistor
Q1. Q1 is biased by a voltage divider
consisting of trimpot VR1, the 1kW
resistor and the light dependent
resistor LDR1.
If there is plenty of ambient light,
the resistance of LDR1 will be low
and Q1 will be held off. When it is
dark, the resistance of LDR1 rises
to a high value, allowing transistor
Q1 to conduct and light the LED in
10
220k
40kHz
SENSOR
Tester for
ultrasonic devices
14
8
LDR1
B
N
C
E
Q1
BC337
BT137X
BC337
B
1N4004
A
K
the optocoupler. This turns on the
associated internal Triac which then
turns on the mains Triac to switch
on the lamp.
Trimpot VR1 is adjusted to set the
E
C
A1
A2
G
light level when the lamp comes
on. Note that the specified Triac is a
BT137X with an insulated tab.
T. K. Hareendran,
Kerala, India. ($40)
October 2008 57
Circuit Notebook
– Continued
Circuit
Notebook
– Continued
REG1 78L05
OUT
4.7k
16
4.7k
Vdd
100nF
10
O11
O10
CP
O9
100nF
O8
O7
2.2k
B
K
D1
1N4001
C
E
K
Q1
BC547
O4
O3
11
A
O2
MR
O1
Vss
O0
A
14
11
100
100 F
10
12
13
4
IC1 O6
4040B O5 2
10k
GND
100 F
(D12)
1
15
3
5
IC2:
4013B
9
PROGRAMMING
DIODES
TO BATTERY
+ TERMINAL
OF ALTERNATOR
+12V/
+24V
IN
6
8
7
5
6
5
3
4
6
3
7
9
K
8
A
(D2)
D
S
14
Vdd 1
Q
IC2a
CLK
Vss
7
R
Q
4.7k
+
10k
'COIL'
2
C
B
E
4*
2
Q2
BC547
–
10k
1
POSITION
* ALSO EARTH
PINS 8,9,10,11
BC547
1N4001
A
Tacho interface for
diesel motors
This interface circuit allows the
use of a conventional automotive
tachometer with any diesel engine
which has a belt-driven alternator
to charge the battery. It will operate on either 12V or 24V systems
and requires no modification to the
tachometer or the engine itself.
Automotive alternators are 12pole, 3-phase devices which deliver
36 AC cycles per revolution. This AC
signal is superimposed on the DC
output fed to the battery. By taking
into account the drive ratio between
the alternator and the engine pulleys, the AC signal can be adapted
to drive a conventional automotive
tacho.
The AC pulses from the BAT
terminal of the alternator are fed
to transistor Q1 via the 100nF capacitor and 2.2kW resistor. Diode D1
protects the transistor’s base against
negative swings of the AC signal.
The amplified signal is used to clock
IC1, a 4040 12-bit binary counter
with a Schmitt trigger input.
Diodes are used on the selected
outputs of IC1. In conjunction with
a 4.7kW resistor, these act as an AND
58 Silicon Chip
K
TACHO/
REV
COUNTER
D2-D12: 1N4148
A
K
gate to detect a high level when the
programmed count is reached.
The divided signal from the diode
AND gate is used to clock IC2a, half
of a 4013 flipflop. This divides the
signal by two and gives a pulse output with a 50% duty cycle. This is
fed to Q2 to drive the “coil” input
of an automotive tacho.
The tacho is set for an 8-cylinder
motor. This means that it is expecting to “see” four pulses for each revolution of the engine. The required
division ratio is then a function of
the number of alternator pulses in
one revolution (ie, 36) multiplied
by the ratio of the engine pulley to
the alternator pulley.
The required division ratio from
IC1 = (36 x R)/4 (x2) where R is the
aforementioned pulley ratio, 4 is
the number pulses per rev at the
tacho and 2 is the division provided
by IC2.
To give a worked example, if the
engine pulley is 150mm and the
alternator pulley is 100mm in dia
meter, the ratio between the two
is 150/100 = 1.5. From there, 36
multiplied by 1.5 = 54 and this is
divided by 4 and multipled by 2 to
get a division ratio of 27.
Referring to Table 1, four program-
78L05
COM
B
E
IN
C
OUT
Table 1: Programming IC1
Pin
9
7
6
5
3
2
4
13
12
14
15
Position
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Value
1
2
4
8
16
32
64
128
256
512
1024
ming diodes will thus need to be
inserted in the following positions:
Position 5 = value 16
Position 4 = value 8
Position 2 = value 2
Position 1 = value 1
These values are added together
to give a total division of 27.
The circuit can be built on a scrap
of prototyping board inserted into
the tacho housing. The terminal of
the tachometer normally connected
to the “COIL” or “CB” is now connected to the interface.
Dayle Edwards,
Taylorville, NZ. ($60)
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 7805
OUT
GND
100 µF
16V
A
~
+
IN
T1
6.3V
BR1
–
2200 µF
35V
240V
MAINS
INPUT
240V
~
6.3V
N
A
47Ω
D3
+5V
4.7k
MAN
S1
AUTO
A
LED1
Q1
PN100
D5
4.7k
A
10nF
K
E
100k
120Ω
47Ω
10nF
C
B
2x
10k
E
PUMP
PRESSURE
SWITCH
3
4
NC
P4
2 SER
IN
P0
IC1
PICAXE
-08M
A
Q3
PN100
P1
P2
10nF
7
4.7k
6
E
100k
Q2
PN100
D6
A
E
K
D1
560Ω
5 (PUMP ON SENSING)
K
6.3V
A
T2
A
Vss
8
2x
100nF
C
B
4.7k
1
Vdd
P3
RLY2 20A
K
D4
+5V
NO
C
B
OFF
HIGH
INT
BLUE
K
E
A OUT N
A
REMOTE SWITCH BOX
N
PUMP
CHLORINATOR
CONTROLLER
RLY1 20A
K
IN
CT
K
4.7 µF
22k
D2
ZD1
4.7V
4.7k
K
A
TO
PUMP
240V
A
6.3V
N
10 µF
LED
D5–D6: 1N4148
A
D1–D4: 1N4004
K
Smart pool
pump control
This project stemmed from the
intermittent failure of a non-return
valve on a swimming pool pump that
was installed in a shed, two metres
above the water line. This caused
the pump to run dry for extended
periods on several occasions, damaging the pump.
The PICAXE monitors a pressure
switch and the pump sense line (pin
5) which is activated by a commercial chlorinator. When the chlorinator is in standby mode, the program
checks the position of both contacts
siliconchip.com.au
A
K
A
B
K
ZD1
K
in the pressure switch to ensure the
switch is working correctly. The
commercial chlorinator switches on
in response to its set program and the
pump is turned on via the normally
closed (NC) contacts of relays RLY1
& RLY2.
The pump sense power supply, in
parallel with the pump, generates
4.7V and is connected to P2 (pin 5)
of the PICAXE. A small transformer
(T2) was used here because it gives
full isolation.
The program is directed to pressure check and allowed 10 seconds
to build up pressure via an interrupt.
While in “Normal” the pressure
A
7805
PN100
C
E
GND
IN
GND
OUT
switch and pump sense are constantly checked and the program
will loop until the chlorinator turns
the pump off, the pressure is too low
or the pressure switch fails. Membrane pressure switches exposed to
chlorine can be unreliable, so the
switch is checked for failure, no
response or stuck on or off.
When the pump is turned off or
the pressure is lost, the program
checks after five seconds to see if the
pump has been turned off. If so, it
returns to “main” via “return”. This
is necessary to reset the interrupt. If
the pressure has not built up or has
. . . continued on page 60
October 2008 59
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE-based
Mosfet tester
Although Mosfets are quite tolerant with respect to parallel operation, it’s worthwhile matching them
in applications like audio power amplifiers and switchmode supplies.
One of the most important para
meters to match is the gate-source
threshold voltage. This PICAXE circuit uses an op amp, an adjustable
voltage regulator and an LCD module. It can test both N and P-channel
devices, with selectable drain loads
of 0.25mA and 2.5mA. It will display
the threshold voltage in 100mV
increments and indicate whether
a faulty device is open or shorted.
The software assumes an AXE033
LCD display. Other displays may
require the SEROUT instructions to
be changed.
Initially, the PICAXE will idle
and wait for the Reset pushbutton
to be pressed. It will then jump to
a routine to detect whether an N or
P-channel Mosfet is being tested, dependent on the setting of switch S2.
Assuming that N-channel is selected, the LCD screen will be updated
with the message “N-channel”.
To start, IC1 will initialise the
PWM output to zero. The PWM output is integrated by a low-pass filter
consisting of two 22kW resistors and
two 4.7nF capacitors. IC2b, half of
an LMC6482 CMOS dual rail-to-rail
op amp, buffers the filtered signal.
IC2b applies the voltage to the gate
of the device under test.
Since the PWM is zero, the gate
voltage is zero and the Mosfet should
not be conducting. If it does, the
voltage at the drain of the Mosfet
becomes lower than the 2.5V reference voltage fed to the input of IC2a
which is connected as a comparator
and its output goes high. The software tests immediately for this condition and if asserted, branches out
to a stop_fail routine which displays
a “fail” message on the LCD and
waits in a loop for the reset button
to be pushed again.
If a good Mosfet is under test, the
routine will start incrementing the
PWM output in 2% steps, which
after being integrated, will be in
100mV steps. This incrementing
voltage is applied to the Mosfet gate.
The LCD is simultaneously updated
with the value.
The process loops until the gate
threshold voltage is reached. This
causes the drain voltage to exceed
2.5V and comparator IC2a then
changes states to a logic high and
the program branches to a stop_done
routine, which will display a “done”
and the “x.x volts” threshold voltage on the LCD display. It then
waits again for the reset button to
be pressed.
Fernand
o
is this m Garcia
onth’s
winne
Peak At r of a
las
Instrum Test
ent
If the maximum threshold
voltage of 5V has
been reached and
the Mosfet is still not
conducting, again the
software will branch to the stop_fail
routine and wait to be reset.
Semiconductor vendors usually
specify the gate-source threshold for
small-signal Mosfets as the voltage
where the drain current is 0.25mA.
For higher power Mosfets, it is best
to test at a higher current. Switch
S3 provides drain current settings
of 0.25mA and 2.5mA.
If a P-channel Mosfet is to be
tested, switch S2 reverses the polarity of the drain and source connections to the device under test and
this tells the software, to branch to
the P-channel routine, which will
initialise the PWM count from 100%
and ramp down towards zero.
This means that the gate voltage
starts at 5V and ramps down, necessary because the source is now
at 5V. The gate threshold voltage is
still the absolute value with respect
to the source and the LCD will show
the correct gate-source voltage differential. It will also alert the user by
displaying a “P-channel” message
on the LCD.
Otherwise, the operation is identical to the N-channel case, terminating the sequence and displaying the
voltage once the threshold voltage is
reached. This time, the comparator
will change state to a logic zero, a
Smart pool pump control . . . continued from page 59
been lost but the pump is on, the
program loops in “pressurefail”
and power to the pump is turned
off. Reset is only possible by powering down, correcting the fault and
returning power to the circuit.
If the pressure switch has failed,
the program loops in “switchfail”,
power to the pump is turned off
and a manual reset is also required.
A remote switch box with a high
intensity LED indicator is located
near the skimmer box. The switch
is used for vacuuming, as it allows the pump to be switched on
independently of the chlorinator.
60 Silicon Chip
In manual mode, transistor, Q1
switches the pump and sense voltage
supply on via the normally off (NO)
contacts of relay RLY1. The PICAXE
then checks the pressure and switch
in the same way.
If there is a switch failure or pressure failure condition, pin 1 of the
PICAXE switches on transistor Q2
and relay RLY2 via diode D6 and the
pump is switched off. The normal
mode for the remote switch is the
auto position.
The LED will flash briefly every
four seconds when the system is
in standby, flash slowly when the
pressure has not built up or has
failed and flash quickly to indicate
pressure switch failure. It is on when
the pump is running normally. This
allows easy observation of the status
of the system from inside the house,
day or night.
The relays should be heavy-duty
units with 240VAC 20A contacts.
Jaycar has suitable relays; Cat SY4042 (12V 160W coil).
Paul Walsh,
Montmorency, Vic. ($60)
Note: the software (poolpumpcontroller.bas) can be downloaded from
the SILICON CHIP website.
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 LM317T
+5.00V
OUT
IN
ADJ
120
9V
BATTERY
CON1
DC INPUT
10 F
1
2
330
3
SET
5.00V
4
VR1
100
5
6
7
2x
10k
100nF
100nF
RESET
S1
+V
SerIN
OUT5
IN4
OUT4
IN3
IN2
IC1
OUT3
PICAXE-14M
OUT2
8
9
10
Vdd
11
12
IN1
OUT1
IN0
SerO/ 13
OUT0
SER
IN
SERIAL LCD MODULE
0V
GND
14
10k
22k
22k
G
5
6
IC2b
4.7nF
10k
2
D
3
S
N-CH/P-CH
7
100nF
1.1k
DEVICE UNDER TEST
S2
IC2: LMC6482
4.7nF
S3
LO/HI
1k
LM317T
8
1
IC2a
4
1M
10k
OUT
ADJ
OUT
fact that is also accommodated by
the software.
The circuit’s current consumption
is low enough for it to be powered
by a 9V battery or a 9V DC plugpack.
The output of the LM317 regulator
must be adjusted to exactly 5.00V
IN
with trimpot VR1.
Note that IC2 will tend to oscillate
if driving a capacitive load such as
that presented by a Mosfet’s gate. As
such, it is imperative that its output
be decoupled by the 1kW resistor.
The LMC6482 CMOS dual rail-to-
rail op amp is available from www.
futurlec.com
Fernando Garcia,
Brownsville, Texas, USA.
Note: the software (PicaxeMosfet.
bas) can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website.
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we pay
good money for each of the
“Circuit Notebook” items published in SILICON CHIP. But now
there are four more reasons to
send in your circuit idea. Each
month, the best contribution published will entitle
the author to choose the
prize: an LCR40 LCR
meter, a DCA55 Semiconductor Component Analyser, an
ESR60 Equivalent Series Resistance
Analyser or an SCR100 Thyristor &
Triac Analyser, with the compliments
siliconchip.com.au
of Peak Electronic Design Ltd www.
peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in. Send it
to SILICON CHIP and you could be a
winner.
You can either email your idea to
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it
to PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
October 2008 61
A multi-purpose timer with external triggering
and several modes of operation
Design by JOHN CLARKE
Special Function Timer
This automatic timer has a wide range of applications whereby
a timing cycle is initiated in response to a trigger signal. There
are quite a few uses for it in a car or you could use it on a model
railway layout, in a home security system or whatever.
T
HIS PROJECT WAS originally presented as a “Versatile Auto Timer”
in our book, “Performance Electronics
for Cars” but since it has considerably
wider applications than in cars, we
have decided to give it a wider audience by publishing it in SILICON CHIP
with an updated microcontroller, the
PIC16F628A.
Since it is based on a microcontroller, it can be easily configured to
give a wide range of times and triggering options. As well, it can run as a
“one-shot”, giving a fixed ON time for
a device after being triggered or it can
cycle the device on and off repeatedly
62 Silicon Chip
after being triggered.
There are a number of triggering
operations. For example, you could
just use a pushbutton to start the
timer or it might be triggered by the
application or removal of more than
6V to the input.
As you might imagine, there are any
number of applications for this timer
in a car. For example, it could run a fan
for 10 minutes at the push of a button
or it could run the ventilation fan for
a couple of minutes every 10 minutes
when the car is locked in a sunny car
park. When you come back to the car,
it would not be stifling inside and there
would not have been too much drain
on your battery.
Or what if you have a model railway
layout with points switching? Say you
have just changed over the points and
you want lights to flash and bells to
sound at a road crossing for three minutes after? That’s a job for this timer.
There are many others.
Basically, the Special Function Timer is just a small PC board with a 12V
relay on it. You can run it anywhere
that 12V DC is available. Want to run
it off 24V DC? Simple; just substitute a
24V relay. Want to run it at 6V? Again,
it is simple; just substitute a 6V relay.
siliconchip.com.au
D1 *
+11.4V
REG1
1N4004
LM2940-5
A
+12V
K
IN
ZENER,
1N4004
+5V
OUT
GND
100 µF*
16V
10 µF
100nF
16V
10k
A
K
10k
LED
BC327, BC337
GND
B
*
USE 1N5819
FOR 6V SUPPLY
*
1k FOR 6V SUPPLY
4.7k FOR 24V SUPPLY
*
10k
SIGNAL
INPUT
A
RB6
RB4
10k
K
MCLR
10k
Q1
BC337
ZD1
16V
1W
B
150Ω
6
RB5
RB0
RB7
1nF
IC1
PIC16F628A
100k
SC
2004
RB1
RA4
RA3
X1
4MHz
15
OSC1
RA2
OSC2
RA1
OUT
GND
RB2
RB3
16
22pF
22pF
SPECIAL FUNCTION TIMER
A
10
2
11
Vss
5
RA0
7
3
9
+11.4V
COM
4
13
8
BCD SWITCH
0–9 (1's)
1
A
8
TP1
LM2940CT-5
IN
S1
12
C
E
C
4
14
Vdd
USE 100 µF 35V
FOR 24V SUPPLY
K
E
+5V
S2
λ LED1 D2
1N4004
K
BCD SWITCH
0–9 (10's)
1
K
2.2k*
2
COM
4
A
8
Q2
BC337
10k
2
B
NO
COM
NC
E
+5V
1
NO
COM
NC
C
RELAY1
18
17
100 µF*
16V
LK2 10k
LK1
LK3
1-SH
H/L
x10
ALT
L/H
x0.1
TRIGGER
MULTIPLIER
(OPEN = x1)
MODE
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a PIC16F628A microcontroller that’s programmed to provide a timed output after being
triggered. The output at pin 2 drives a double-pole relay via transistor Q2.
OK, there are a couple of other component variations which might need
to be made and we will detail those
later in this article.
Circuit description
The full circuit is shown in Fig.1.
As already noted, it is based on IC1,
a PIC16F628A microcontroller programmed to provide a timed output
after being triggered. The output drives
a relay which is closed during the timing period. A LED also lights whenever
the relay is activated. The relay has
changeover (DPDT) contacts so that it
activates or de-activates a circuit for
the set time.
The time duration is set using
two 10-position BCD (binary coded
decimal) rotary switches that provide
a timing range of 1-99 seconds in steps
of one second. A separate jumper connection (link LK3) selects either x 0.1,
x1 or x10 multipliers of the set time
siliconchip.com.au
duration. In the standard x1 position
(LK3 open), the time duration is in
seconds, as already noted. When LK3
is in the 0.1 multiplier position, the
timer provides 0.1s to 9.9s timing periods, selectable in 0.1s steps. Similarly,
when LK3 is in the x10 multiplier position, it allows timing from 10s through
to 990s, in steps of 10s.
Three modes are available:
(1). The standard one-shot mode provides a timing period where the relay
is activated for the set period after
triggering.
(2). The alternating mode switches the
relay on and off at the rate set by the
time selection rotary switches.
(3). The variable on/off alternating
mode allows you to independently
set the length of the on and off periods
when the timer is alternating.
The triggering options are a rising
edge or falling edge trigger for the
one-shot mode, or a low-to-high (L/H)
or high-to-low (H/L) signal for the
alternating mode. These options are
set using links LK1 and LK2.
The trigger signal is applied via a
10kW resistor and 16V zener diode
ZD1 to limit transient voltages. This
Main Features
• Triggered on rising or falling
voltage (user selectable)
• One-shot or alternating (pulse)
operation
• Pulse mode can be set for variable on/off periods
• Precise 0.1s to 16.5-minute
timing period
• Relay output with dual doublethrow contacts rated at 5A
• LED indicator for timing
October 2008 63
10k
x10
MULTIPLIER
(OPEN = x1)
+
100 µF*
O NNO
C
10k
NC
CN
1 C 4
LED1
A
2.2k*
COM
s'PERIOD
01
SWITCHES
1nF
A D2 K
Q2
S2
10'S
18001150
NC
CN
901
S1
1'S
23
10k
LK3
COM
8 C 2
150Ω
x0.1
D1: 1N4004
1 C 4
NO
C ON
X1
4MHz
L/H
H/L
1-SHOT ALT
ZD1
10k
10k
A
1
23
901
INPUT
100nF
22pF
IC1
PIC16F628A
BC337
K
TP1
456
+12V
DNG
GND
Q1
D1*
NI 2 1 +
GND
K
s'1 8 C 2
456
LM2940-5
100k
10k
REG1
LK2 LK1
78
➡
+ A
78
➡
+
RE MIT OTUA
TP
GND
22pF
10k
10 µF 100 µF*
RELAY 1
K
BC337
* SEE TEXT & CIRCUIT FOR 6V & 24V OPERATION
Fig.2: follow this parts layout diagram to build the Special Function
Timer. Jumpers LK1-LK3 are installed to suit your application (see Fig.1 &
Figs.3-6). Link LK1 sets the mode (1-shot or alternating); LK2 sets the input
signal trigger sense (low to high or high to low); and LK3 sets the timing
multiplier. BCD switches S1 & S2 set the timing period.
Resistor Colour Codes
Value
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
100kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
150Ω
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown green brown brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown green black black brown
effectively clamps the signal at a
maximum of +16V and -0.6V above
and below ground. This signal then
drives transistor Q1 via another 10kW
resistor.
Q1’s collector inverts the input signal and drives pin 6 of IC1 via a 10kW
pull-up resistor and a 150W series
resistor. A 1nF capacitor filters any
high-frequency voltage fluctuations,
while the pin 6 input of IC1 includes
an internal Schmitt trigger to ensure a
clean signal for measurement.
Rotary BCD switches S1 & S2 are
monitored by IC1’s RB1-RB7 and RA4
inputs. The RB inputs are normally
held high via internal pull-up resistors
within IC1, while RA4 has a 10kW pullup resistor to ensure it is high unless
pulled low via S2. In operation, the
switches provide a unique BCD (binary
coded decimal) code on these inputs
for each setting and these codes are
processed by the program within IC1
to determine the timing period.
The RA0 and RA1 inputs of IC1 are
held either high or low via links LK1
and LK2 to select the Mode and Trigger options. The RA2 input operates
slightly differently. It can be held either high or low using the x10 or x 0.1
jumper (LK3) and this level is checked
by IC1. Initially, this pin is set as an
output and is driven low. The pin is
then set as an input and the level is
checked. If the input is high, then IC1
“knows” that the x10 jumper must be
in place.
The pin is then set as an output
and is set high. When set as an input
again, the level is checked and if it
is low, then the x0.1 jumper must be
in place. If the level does not change
in both cases, then the input must
be open-circuit and the microcontroller assumes the setting is for the
x1 range.
The RA3 output drives transistor Q2
which in turn switches on the relay.
Q2 also turns on LED1 to indicate
when the relay is activated. Diode D2
prevents damage to Q2 from any backEMF spikes produced when the relay
coil is switched off.
IC1 is operated at 4MHz using crystal
X1. The two 22pF capacitors provide
the correct loading for the crystal, so
that the clock starts reliably.
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived via
the vehicle’s fuse box if used in a car
or truck and is fed via diode D1 which
provides reverse polarity protection.
Alternatively, the circuit may be powered from a battery or other source of
DC power at 6V, 12V or 24V, depending
on the relay fitted (see parts list).
If the circuit is run from 6V, then
D1 should be changed to a 1N5819
Schottky diode to minimise voltage
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64 Silicon Chip
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 09585
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New PLC With Analogs
This PLC is great
value. Features 9
Digital in, 10 Relay
out, 8 Analog In and
2 Analog Out. Can
accept quadrature encoder input and
high speed counters
$425+GST.
This view shows the fully assembled unit, which was built from a Jaycar
Auto Timer kit. Note that if your kit comes with a PIC16F628A for IC1,
then IC2 is left out of circuit. Conversely, if you get the original kit with a
PIC16F84 microcontroller, then IC2 must be installed.
drop and reduce the possibility of
regulator dropout. Conversely, if the
circuit is run at 24V, the two 100mF
capacitors should be rated at 35V
instead of 16V.
In addition, the current-limiting
resistor in series with LED1 will need
to be varied according to the supply
voltage: 1kW at 6V, 2.2kW at 12V and
4.7kW at 24V.
The +5V rail for IC1 is derived from
an LM2940CT-5 regulator which is
designed specifically for automotive
applications and includes transient
voltage protection. The 100mF capacitor at REG1’s input provides further
transient voltage suppression.
other suppliers will have the PC board
encoded as 05110081.
When assembling the PC board,
make sure that you insert the polarised
components the right way around.
These parts include the two rotary
switches, diodes, ICs, LED1, the transistors, the voltage regulator and the
electrolytic capacitors. You should
also carefully compare the photos
with the parts layout diagram (Fig.2)
to avoid making any mistakes.
If you are assembling a PIC16F84
version of the circuit, make sure that
you do not swap the MC34064 for one
of the transistors – that could lead to
smoking components!
Construction
Testing
All of the timer components are
mounted on a PC board which measures 106 x 61mm. A complete kit of
parts for the 12V version of the kit is
available from Jaycar Electronics (Cat.
KC5379). In this case the PC board will
have the code number 05car81.
However, since this is the previous version of the circuit which was
based on a PIC16F84, it also needs an
MC34064 5V supply supervisory chip.
This device performs a power-on reset
for IC1 to ensure that pin 4 of IC1 is
only switched high when the supply is
above about 3.5V. For voltages below
this, IC1 is held in the reset state.
We expect that, once existing stocks
are exhausted, Jaycar will upgrade
their kit to use the PIC16F628A, in
which case the MC34064 is simply
omitted from the PC board. Kits from
The timer should now be benchtested for correct operation and to
configure it for your application. This
will also allow you to become familiar
with the way it works.
First, connect +12V and 0V to the
timer. Also connect a floating lead to
the input, so that you can trigger the
unit.
Now place the Mode and Trigger
links (LK1 & LK2 respectively) in their
upper positions (as viewed with the
PC board orientated as in Fig.2) and
remove the multiplier link. Turn the
upper BCD switch to “2” and set the
lower switch to “0”.
The timer is now configured for
Alternating Mode, L/H (Low-to-High)
Trigger and two seconds.
When you connect the floating lead
to +12V, the LED should light and the
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$89.95+GST
Humidity Temperature Controller The
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relay outputs
which can be configured independently as control or alarm, either for
temperature or relative humidity. A
Relative Humidity and Temperature
included. $195+GST
USB-RS422/485
Converter
Our popular isolated converter can
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four-wire RS422
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From $129+GST
Signal Isolators and Converters
TxIsoBlock and
TxIsoRail are programmable isolated transmitters.
Convert Pt100 and
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4-20mA or 0-10V.
TxIsoBlock is a
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and TxIsoRail is a DIN rail mount
unit. Non-isolated models also available From $89+GST
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: 03 9782 5882
www.oceancontrols.com.au
October 2008 65
+12V
S1
1'S
1 8 0ra c 5 0
CN
COM
ON
STD
BOOT
SWITCH
C
1
23
901
NI 2 1 +
NO
C ON
10k
DNG
GND
23
901
1-SHOT
INPUT
S2
10'S
CN
s' 0 1
x10
CHASSIS
(0V)
+
Fig.3: want to automatically switch a 12V lamp or some other load off after
a preset time? This one-shot set-up will do the job. Note the position of link
LK1.
+12V
PUSHBUTTON
SWITCH
CHASSIS
(0V)
DNG
+12V
INPUT
S1
1'S
ON
C
23
901
NI 2 1 +
1
23
901
1-SHOT
GND
NO
COM
S2
10'S
1 8 0ra c 5 0
s'1
CN
HIGH
C ON
+ GOING
10k
RE MIT OTUA
+
78
➡
66 Silicon Chip
s'1
78
➡
Note: change the 2.2kW resistor
in series with LED1 to 4.7kW for
24V operation or to 1kW for 6V
operation. Also, change D1 to
1N5819 for 6V operation.
HIGH
78
➡
24V & 6V Operation
RE MIT OTUA
+ GOING
+
456
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kW
1 2.2kW
7 10kW
1 150W
STD
BOOT
LAMP
456
Capacitors
2 100mF 16V PC electrolytic OR
2 100mF 35V PC electrolytic, for
24V operation
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester (code
104 or 100n)
1 1nF MKT polyester (code 102
or 1n)
2 22pF ceramic (code 22 or 22p)
CHASSIS
(0V)
456
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F628A microcontroller
programmed with 0511008A.
hex (IC1)
1 LM2940T-5 low dropout regulator (REG1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D2).
Note: D1 should be 1N5819
for 6V operation
+12V
456
1 PC board coded 05car081 or
05110081, 105 x 60mm
1 4MHz crystal (X1)
1 18-pin DIL socket for IC1
5 PC-mount 2-way screw
terminals with 5mm pin
spacing
2 BCD PC-mount rotary switches (S1,S2)
1 12V PC-mount DPDT 5A relay
(Relay1) OR
1 6V PC-mount DPDT 5A relay
(Relay1: Altronics Cat S4188C) for 6V operation OR
1 24V PC-mount DPDT 5A relay
(Relay1: Altronics Cat S4195C) for 24V operation
1 70mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
3 3-way headers, 2.54mm spacing
3 jumper shunts, 2.54mm spacing
2 PC stakes (for test points)
+12V
78
➡
Parts List
LOAD
CN
s' 0 1
x1
+
CHASSIS
(0V)
Fig.4: this is the set-up to use if you want to turn a load (eg, a lamp) on at the
press of a button and then have it turn off at the end of a preset timing period.
Link LK1 is again in the 1-shot position.
relay should click in. Two seconds
later, the LED should go out and the
relay should turn off. This process
should then keep repeating for as long
as you have the signal wire connected
to +12V.
Setting the timing
The rotary switches set the time
duration. Set the upper switch to
“7” and the cycling will slow to 7
seconds on, 7 seconds off. Now set
the lower rotary switch to “1” while
leaving the upper switch at “7”. The
time period will now be 17 seconds
on, 17 seconds off.
If you leave the rotary switches set
to 17 (top one on 7 and bottom one on
1) and place the multiplier link in its
uppermost position, the time shown
on the rotary switches will be divided
by 10, giving a 1.7 second on and off
time. Move the multiplier link to its
bottom position and the rotary switch
time will be multiplied by 10, ie, giving
170 second (2 minutes and 50 seconds)
on and off times.
In summary, the upper rotary switch
shows units and the lower switch
shows tens. The multiplier can be set
in three positions:
(1) Link LK3 removed, so the time dissiliconchip.com.au
+12V
HEAVY
DUTY
RELAY
CHASSIS
(0V)
RE MIT OTUA
s'1
DNG
+12V
CN
901
COM
S1
1'S
CHASSIS
(0V)
ON
C
1
901
23
INPUT
456
NI 2 1 +
23
78
➡
GND
1-SHOT
456
GOING
LOW
NO
1 8 0ra c 5 0
10k
+
C ON
+
IGNITION
SWITCH
S2
10'S
CN
LOAD
78
➡
s' 0 1
x10
+
CHASSIS
(0V)
Fig.5: this 1-shot set-up will continue to supply power to a load (eg, a car radio or the headlights)
after the car’s ignition has been turned off. The heavy-duty relay is included to ensure reliable
operation with high-current loads. Note the location of link LK2 compared to the other set-ups (ie,
it’s fitted in the H/L position).
+12V
SWITCH
CHASSIS
(0V)
901
456
23
78
➡
DNG
GND
+12V
S1
1'S
ON
23
901
INPUT
COM
C
456
NI 2 1 +
1
NO
S2
10'S
1 8 0ra c 5 0
s'1
C ON
PULSE
HIGH
CN
+GOING
10k
RE MIT OTUA
+
LOAD
CN
78
➡
s' 0 1
x10
+
CHASSIS
(0V)
Fig.6: in this set-up, LK1 is in the “ALT” (or pulse) position and so the load
(eg, a lamp or a siren) pulses on and off according to the period set by the
BCD switches (and link LK3). The switch simply turn the circuit on or off.
played on the rotary switches equals
seconds;
(2) Link LK3 at top position, so the
time displayed on the rotary switches
equals seconds divided by 10; and
(3) Link LK3 at bottom position, so the
time displayed on the rotary switches
equals seconds multiplied by 10.
Now try the one-shot mode by moving LK1 to its bottom (1-shot) position.
Then remove the multiplier link and
set the rotary switches to give a 5-second timing period (ie, bottom switch
on “0” and top switch on “5”).
Now when you connect the signal
input lead to 12V, the relay will click
siliconchip.com.au
in for five seconds and then switch
off. If you disconnect and then reconnect the signal input within the timed
period, the timer will start counting
again – so the timing period is from
the last sensing connection.
In practice, you can set the positions
of the rotary switches and multiplier
link to give any time period you want
from 0.1 seconds to 990 seconds (16.5
minutes).
Variable alternating mode
Once you’re familiar with the oneshot and alternating modes, you can
try out the variable on/off alternating
mode. This gives you the option of
different “on” and “off” times.
This mode is activated as follows:
(1). Set the timer to alternating mode
(link LK1 in upper position).
(2). Set the top rotary switch (S1) to
the number 7.
(3). Temporarily connect TP1 to TP
GND (these are the two test pins near
the top rotary switch). Note: this needs
to done for a least 2s before the change
occurs.
In this mode, the bottom rotary
switch sets the length of time the relay
is closed and the top rotary switch sets
the length of time the relay is open. For
example, if you set the top switch to
“3” and the bottom switch to “1”, with
the multiplier link (LK3) removed, the
relay and its accompanying LED will
cycle on for 1 second, off for 3 seconds,
on for 1 second, etc.
If you want to change back to
standard alternating mode, set S1 to
the number 7 and again temporarily
connect TP1 to TP GND for at least 2s.
High to low triggering
Up until now, you have been triggering the timer by connecting the floating
lead to +12V. Now let’s configure it to
trigger when the floating input lead is
disconnected from +12V.
To do this, move the Trigger Mode
link (LK2) to its lower position (H/L)
and then check that the timer starts
when the floating input lead is disconSC
nected from +12V.
October 2008 67
Building the
Railpower IV
Part 2: Construction and setting it up
Last month we presented the circuit, specifications and
parts list for our new high-performance Railpower IV model
train controller. Now it’s time for the construction details –
and we show you how to set it up for best performance.
C
onsidering that the new Railpower IV has such a lot of
features and gives great performance, its construction is relatively
simple compared with our previous
Railpower designs featured in 1988,
1995 and 1999. This is mainly as a
result of using the PIC16F88 microcontroller.
And whereas our two previous
designs used front panel LEDs and an
analog meter, this latest design uses a
2-line alphanumeric LCD panel.
All our previous designs used one
large PC board but this latest Railpower uses two PC boards. The main board
accommodates the power transformer
and most of the circuitry, including the
microcontroller, while the verticallymounted display board is for the LCD
panel and four pushbutton switches.
The main board measures 217 x
102mm and is coded 09109081while
68 Silicon Chip
the display board is coded 09109082
and measures 141 x 71mm.
These PC boards are housed in a
plastic instrument case measuring 260
x 190 x 80mm. The rear panel is made
from aluminium sheet. It provides
heatsinking for the four Darlington
power transistors used in the H-bridge
motor drive circuit.
You can begin construction by
checking each of the PC boards for
defects such as shorts or breaks in the
copper tracks and to see that all holes
have been drilled correctly to suit the
various components. The holes for the
mounting screws, the LCD mounts and
for REG1 need to be 3mm in diameter.
The four holes to mount the transformer are 4mm in diameter.
Note that there are different mount-
by JOHN CLARKE
ing positions for the Altronics and
Jaycar LCD panels (the board has been
designed to accommodate either).
Main board assembly
Fig.1 shows the component overlay
diagram for the main PC board.
Start by inserting the resistors in the
main board, taking care to place each
in its correct position. Use the resistor
colour code table (see last month’s issue) as a guide to each value. You can
also use a digital multimeter to check
each resistor – this is a good idea as it
easy to misread colour codes.
Next install the wire links and the
PC stakes for the motor outputs and
the ‘track’ LED. A 3-way pin header
is used for connecting speed potentiometer, VR1.
Install diodes D1-D7, taking care
with their orientation. Note that D1-D4
are 1N5404 types, D5 & D6 are 1N4004
siliconchip.com.au
and D7 is a 1N4148. The socket for
IC1 can now be mounted, taking care
with its orientation (leave IC1 out of
its socket for now). Then install IC2,
again taking care with its orientation.
The capacitors can go in next. The
five electrolytic types must be oriented
with the polarity as shown. The crystal
can then be mounted as well as the
piezo siren.
The 3-terminal regulator (REG1) is
attached to the PC board together with
a U-shaped finned heatsink. Bend the
regulator leads at right angles to fit into
the holes provided. First secure it with
an M3 x 10mm screw and nut and then
solder the three leads. Then install
trimpot VR2 (10kW), the 2-way screw
terminal block (CON3) and the 10-way
IDC vertical header (CON2), mounted
with the orientation slot as shown.
The transistors can then be mounted. All the small-signal transistors
(Q5-Q10) are BC337 types. Just push
them in and solder the leads. The TO220 transistors are BD650 (Q1 & Q2)
while Q3 & Q4 are BD649s’s. Mount
Here’s the two-line alphanumeric display (in this case the Jaycar model with
backlight) which gives you all the information you need about your settings.
Here it is showing the train speed at about 56% of the maximum speed set
(90%). Inertia is on (indicated by the “I”) and the lock is on (shown by the
padlock being closed). As you enter other modes, the information on the display
changes to reflect those modes.
them their full lead length and with
about 1mm of lead below the PC board
for soldering.
The power transformer (T1) is
mounted on the PC board using four
M4 screws and nuts. A 6.4mm spade
terminal is attached to one corner, as
shown, to earth the transformer body
back to the rear panel. You’ll need to
scrape off some of the varnish coating
from around the hole. A star washer between the transformer mounting foot
and the spade terminal then ensures
a good contact.
To obtain the current rating required,
two secondaries are wired in parallel,
with heavy-gauge insulated hookup
wire connecting the appropriate terminals, as shown in the photographs
and in fig.1. In the case of the Altronics (Powertran) M-2165L transformer,
connect together terminals A to F and
terminals C to D.
Two wires, again heavy duty insu-
Inside shot of the Railpower IV, in this case fitted with the Altronics LCD and transformer.
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 69
lated hookup wire, are then run from
transformer secondary terminals to
the adjacent 2-way screw terminal
block (CON3). In fact, we used the
same lengths of wire to connect the
two terminals on the transformer and
the terminal block.
size and location depend on whether
the Altronics or Jaycar LCD modules
are used.
The larger holes can be initially
12V
(”C”)
9V
(”B”)
NC
9V
(”E”)
NC
12V
(”D”)
D5
0V
(”F”)
D1
5404
100 µF
25V
D2
5404
CON3
18090190
L ORT N O C ET O MER DERARF NI
RELL ORT N O C RE W OP ESLUP
T1
(12V/60VA)
D3
5404
REG1
7805
D4
5404
2200 µF
25V
2200 µF
25V
10 µF
LINK6
LINK1
10k
LINK2
Q6
2.2k
10k
2.2k
LINK4
10nF
Q4
Q8
LINK5
Q9
Q10
Q2
LINK3
100k
100k
100k
4148
1k
10k
15k
5.1k
D7
100 µF
Q1
1k
10M
1
2.2k
X1
2MHz
0
+
100nF
100nF 10nF
Q5
10k
1
27pF
1k
IC2 74HC00
IC1 PIC16F88-I/P
CON2
27pF
22 µF
D6
Q7
10k
Q3
VR1
(LOCAL
SPEED)
OVERLOAD
PIEZO SIREN
VR2
10k
0.1 Ω 5W
+
70 Silicon Chip
0V
(”A”)
1
2
Several holes need to be drilled in
the front panel for the pushbutton
switches, the potentiometer and the
IR detector (IRD1). As well, a cut-out
is required for the LCD module – the
NEUTRAL
TERMINAL
ON IEC
CONNECTOR
9
10
Working on the case
ACTIVE –
TO MAINS
SWITCH
(ON IEC
CONNECTOR)
240V
PRIMARY
WINDING
Assembling the display board
Insert the five resistors and trimpot
VR3 (10kW). The 100mF & 10mF 16V
electrolytic capacitors must be laid
on the sides before they are soldered
into place.
The connections for the LCD modules are made with socket strip and
with header terminal strips. You can
use a 14-pin DIL (dual in-line) socket
strip for the Jaycar LCD and a 14-pin
SIL strip for the Altronics LCD. They
can be made by cutting a 14-DIL IC
socket to produce two 7-way strips.
These can be placed side by side for
the DIL or in-line for the SIL strip on
the display PC board.
The header terminal strips are
soldered to the LCD module. Install
them with the longer pins sticking
up through the LCD module PC board
and then solder them in place on the
topside of the module. The excess lead
length on the topside is then cut short
with side-cutters.
You can then plug the LCD into
place on the display board. Secure
the module using four tapped 6mm
spacers plus Nylon washers to increase height to about 7mm. These
are secured in place with 8-M3 x 6mm
screws.
The four pushbutton switches are
mounted on the PC board, oriented
with the flat side as shown in the component overlay diagram. The infrared
detector (IRD1) is mounted with its
full lead length so it can be bent over
at right angles so that its lens lines
up with the hole in the front panel.
Finally, fit the 90-degree IDC connector (CON2).
You can make up the IDC lead with
10-way IDC cable, making sure that the
red strip side is as shown on both the
main board and display board sockets.
The IDC cable can be compressed into
its fittings by clamping up in a vise
drilled to 5mm to start with and successively drilling larger holes. It can
then be carefully reamed out to the
required diameter. But why bother
DIRECTION
LED
(BICOLOUR)
2.2k
TO
TRACK
Fig.1: component overlay for the main PC board, with a similar-size
photo at right for comparison. This has the back panel already fitted.
siliconchip.com.au
with all that? Why not use the correct
size drill to make the holes
in one go?
The reason is that it is
almost impossible to drill large
round holes in sheet material
– usually they tend to
to be triangular rath-
Not shown here are the front panel connections – LED,
pot and display board. Be careful with the pot wiring –
it’s easy to get it around the wrong way!
siliconchip.com.au
er than circular.
The display cut-out is made by
drilling a series of holes around the
perimeter of the cut-out, knocking out
the piece and then filing it to shape.
Finally mark out and drill the four
mounting positions for the display
PC board.
The rear panel is made from 1mm
or thicker aluminium, to provide a
heatsink for the four power transistors. The panel needs holes for the IEC
mains connector, earth lug, binding
post terminals and the four transistor
mounting holes.
The hole positions for the transistors can be marked out by mounting
the main PC board into the case using
the four self-tapping screws. Push the
transistors flat against the rear panel
and mark out their hole positions.
These should be drilled to 3mm and
any sharp edges around the hole removed with a countersinking drill bit.
Don’t fit the transistors until you are
finished all holes, just in case a tiny
bit of swarf causes a short.
Position of the holes for the binding
posts is not critical – just don’t fit them
too close together and so make attaching wires difficult. When the holes are
drilled, reamed and de-burred, attach
the binding posts to the rear panel and
tighten their nuts with a spanner.
Likewise, the IEC connector position (with its integral fuse and
switch) is not too critical – use the
photographs as a guide. The IEC connector clips into a 47 x 28mm vertical
rectangular cutout.
At this size, it is a tight fit so that
there is no likelihood of it being dislodged. The wiring inside the case
can now be completed, as shown in
Fig.4.
Fig.3 shows how the power transistors are mounted, using an insulating bush and washer as shown to
ensure they are insulated from the
aluminium panel. The earth lugs are
attached using a star washer between
each eyelet.
The mains wiring is done with the
brown and blue wires already connected to the specified transformer.
Both are about 100mm longer than is
required so the offcut from the Active
(brown) wire is used to make up the
~50mm fuse-to-switch link on the
back of the IEC connector.
Green/yellow-striped wire
is used solely for the earth
connections – one from the
October 2008 71
28090190
1
14
1
100 µF
16V
S1
S2
IEC socket earth pin to the rear panel
and one from the transformer to the
same point on the rear panel. Together,
these require only 150mm or so of wire.
This coloured wire must not be used
for any other wiring.
We used insulated 4.8mm crimped
quick connectors for all wires going
to the rear of the IEC connector and
insulated 6.4mm crimped quick connectors to the earth connections, as
shown.
If for some reason you need to use
any other wire for the mains wiring,
ensure that is 250VAC-rated 7.5A
wire, with brown used for Active and
blue for Neutral.
For safety, all the mains wiring must
be tied with cable ties so that they
cannot come adrift. The exposed area
at the rear of the IEC connector where
the Active connects to the fuse should
be covered with a liberal coating of
neutral cure Silicone sealant.
72 Silicon Chip
IRD1
(LIES FLAT)
VR3
10k
10 µF
16V
S3
S4
The wiring to the transformer secondary and to the binding posts is
made with heavy duty hookup wire.
Note that the two 12V windings are
connected in parallel. Connect the two
0V connections together and the two
12V connections together.
Before mounting and connecting
the potentiometer, its shaft may need
cutting to length to suit the knob to
be used.
Power up
Note of the following tests and setup
need the tracks connected and a loco
on them until indicated.
Check your wiring carefully, including the insulated covers over all the
quick-connect terminals (these ensure
that there are no dangerous voltages
exposed with power connected so that
you can safely work on the project
without it being sealed inside a case.
There are no dangerous voltages on
1k
LINK10
1k
1k
4x 1k RESISTORS
AND LINK 10
ARE ALL UNDER
LCD MODULE
470Ω
(BLUE DOTTED LINE SHOWS
POSITION FOR ALTERNATE
LCD DISPLAY MODULE
– JAYCAR QP 5516 )
1k
ALTRONICS Z-7001 LCD MODULE SHOWN
1k
1k
lcd display
1k
YALPSID RELLORTNOC REWOP ESLUP
LINK10
1k
CON1
Fig.2: the component
overlay for the display
board with a matching
photo below. The PC
board has provision for
either the Jaycar QP5516
or the Altronics Z7100
LCD modules – this shows
the Altronics version
which connects to the PC
board via the single row
of 14 header sockets at
the bottom of the display
board (the Jaycar version
was shown in the photos
last month. It connects
via the dual row of
sockets on the left side of
the board). Note the inset
above – four resistors
and a link are actually
under the Altronics LCD
module. Also note that
for minimum height, the
electrolytic capacitors
and the infrared receiver
are installed parallel with
the PC board.
any tracks or pads on the PC board as
the transformer is directly wired to
the IEC connector).
Speaking of the IEC connector,
make sure there is a 1A fuse inside its
fuse holder. You open this by gently
levering up the tab on the fuse holder
underside with a tiny flat screwdriver.
And as mentioned earlier, IC1 should
INSULATING
WASHER
M3 NUT
10mm LONG
M3 SCREW
INSULATING
BUSH
Q1– Q4
REAR
PANEL
Fig.3: transistor
mounting detail
on the rear panel.
siliconchip.com.au
TOP
TOP OF REAR PANEL
IEC CONNECTOR
WITH SWITCH
& FUSE
ACTIVE
2 x EARTHING LUGS
SECURED WITH STAR
WASHER, M4 SCREW
AND NUT
Q1
NEUTRAL
6.4mm SPADE
LUG SECURED
WITH STAR
WASHER UNDER
M4 NUT
Q2
Q4
BINDING
POSTS TO
TRACK
Q3
6.4mm SPADE
CONNECTOR
ON EARTH
WIRE
BOTTOM
COVER
LINK
WITH
SILICONE
SEALANT
12V
(”C”)
240V
PRIMARY
WINDING
(WIRED IN)
18090190
L ORT N O C ET O MER DERARF NI
RELL ORT N O C RE W OP ESLUP
0V
(”F”)
1
9V
(”B”)
NC
T1
(12V/60VA)
K CART
DEL
9V
(”E”)
NC
CON3
0V
(”A”)
4148
12V
(”D”)
+
1
+
CON2
9
10
1
2
BOTTOM
1
2
(CON1)
TO DISPLAY BOARD)
JAYCAR(RIBBON CABLE
TRACK LED
DISPLAY
PULSE POWER CONTROLLER DISPLAY
LOOKING
AT BACK
OF FRONT
PANEL AND
DISPLAY
PC BOARD
“FOLDED OUT”
VR1
(REAR VIEW)
ALTRONICS DISPLAY
09109082
TOP
Fig.4: this “opened out” view shows the wiring between the PC board and front/rear panels.
not yet be in its socket.
Apply power and check for 5V between pins 5 and 14 of IC1’s socket.
This may range be between 4.9V and
5.1V. If the voltage is correct, switch
off power and insert IC1 into its socket,
taking care to install it the correct way
around.
Reapply power and adjust trimpot
VR3, so the LCD is easily viewed with
good contrast. Note that you need to
wait a few seconds after powering
down before reapplying power. If
you rapidly switch the power on and
off, the LCD module may not reset
correctly.
At this stage the display should
show a left arrow, an ‘S’ for stop and
an ‘I’ for inertia on the top right of the
display. The lower line of the display
should show a bar graph and a persiliconchip.com.au
centage reading (0-100%) that varies
depending on the setting of the Local
Speed potentiometer.
The pushbutton switches below
the display serve different functions
depending on the Mode selected. At
power up, the display is in RUN mode
where three of the switches control the
Direction, Stop & Inertia.
If the Stop switch is pressed, then
the ‘S’ should disappear and the top
line will now begin to show a bargraph
that increases slowly up to the speed
setting value shown on the lower line.
The Lockout (padlock) symbol will
show as the speed increases beyond
the first few bars on the top line. You
should be able to switch the Inertia
on and off with the Inertia switch
and change the direction arrow when
the speed is below the lockout speed.
The direction will only change when
the padlock lockout symbol is not
showing.
If these tests are OK, then the
display PC board can be attached to
the front panel using 12mm tapped
standoffs and M3 screws. Countersunk
screws are used on the panel for a
flush finish.
Adjusting parameters
You are probably now ready to
try out the controller on your model
railway layout.
Connect the Railpower IV to the
tracks by means of the terminals on
the back panel and place a locomotive
on them. Check that its speed can be
controlled with the front panel knob.
At this stage the maximum and minimum speed settings can be adjusted.
October 2008 73
The Railpower IV rear panel,
showing the positions of (from
left) the track terminals, four
transistor mounting bolts,
earth bolt and the combination IEC mains input
socket, fuse and power
switch. Only the four transistor mounting bolt hole
locations are critical – they
need to line up with the
transistors on the PC board.
The IEC combo clips into a
rectangular hole measuring
48 x 28mm – no screws are
required.
To do this, press the Inertia switch so
that the ‘I’ is not displayed inertia disabled). This will allow the locomotive
to respond instantly to speed settings.
Now press the RUN switch and the
display will now show the SET mode
in which the three rightmost switches
change their function to Function,
Down and Up. Any changes made to
the SET values are stored in memory
unless they are changed again.
Each press of the Function switch
selects the following:
MAXIMUM SPEED (self explanatory)
MINIMUM SPEED (self explanatory)
LOCKOUT SPEED (the maximum
speed that reverse direction can be
invoked)
DEFAULT SPEED (the switch-on or
default speed of the Railpower )
LOCAL/REMOTE (control is from
front panel controls or infrared remote)
CODE TV (the code from your particular infrared remote – see the infrared
remote instructions)
INERTIA (self explanatory)
STOP (self explanatory)
FEEDBACK (the degree which backEMF from the motor affects the Railpower)
SPEED RAMP (the rate at which the
speed setting changes under remote
control) and
PULSE (the frequency of the interrupted DC going to the tracks)
Further details on what these mean
and how to set them are shown in the
programming panel overleaf.
Opposite: Railpower IV front and rear
panel drilling details, shown life size.
The downloadable front panel on the
SILICON CHIP website will not be dimensioned nor have the positional writing,
so it can be printed and used direct.
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
YES!
NA
R
MO E THA URY
ENT
QUARTER C NICS
O
OF ELECTR !
Y
R
O
T
IS
H
This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from
the beginning (April 1939 – price sixpence!) right through to the final edition of R, TV & H
in March 1965, before it disappeared forever with the change of name to EA.
For the first time ever, complete and in one handy DVD, every article and every issue
is covered.
If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more
vintage than this. If you’re a student of history, this archive gives an extraordinary insight
into the amazing breakthroughs made in radio and electronics technology following the
war years.
And speaking of the war years, R & H had some of the best propaganda imaginable!
Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you.
• Every issue individually archived, by month and year
• Complete with index for each year
• A must-have for everyone interested in electronics
Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC.
Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!)
and Acrobat Reader V6 (free download) to enable you to view this archive.
This DVD is NOT playable through a standard A/V-type DVD player.
Exclusive to
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ONLY
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HERE’S HOW TO ORDER YOUR COPY:
BY PHONE:*
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siliconchip.com.au
L
C
24mm
17mm
22mm
10mm
15mm
55mm
17mm
FUNCTION
DIRECTION
10mm
86mm
POSITION OF DISPLAY PC BOARD BEHIND PANEL
DOWN
STOP
CUTOUT FOR JAYCAR LCD (xx x xxmm)
SET
RUN
10mm
UP
INERTIA
CUTOUT FOR ALTRONICS LCD (65 x 16mm)
SILICON CHIP
45mm
TRANSISTOR MOUNTING - 3mm
30mm
SPEED
35mm
CUTOUT
28 x 48mm
IEC CONNECTOR
FUSEHOLDER
AND SWITCH
28mm
15mm
8mm
GREEN: FORWARD
RED: REVERSE
DIRECTION
RAILPOWER Iv
EARTH
BOLT
4mm
48mm
10mm
38mm
October 2008 75
siliconchip.com.au
7mm
7mm
15mm
16mm
10mm
PROGRAMMING YOUR RAILPOWER IV
Maximum Speed
Press the Function switch until MAXIMUM SPEED is displayed on the top line of the
display. The lower line shows SET<at> 107? (180). The value 107 could be any number
between 0 and 204 depending on the position of the Local Speed potentiometer while
the number in brackets is the original default setting or your previous maximum
speed setting.
Typically, you will want no more than 12V DC applied if you are running HO or OO scale locomotives and no more than 9V DC if you are
running N gauge. If in doubt, check the manufacturer’s recommendations. In fact, running an HO scale locomotive at its maximum of 12V
will normally result in a scale speed of 180km/h so for the sake of realism and safety, you might want to reduce it somewhat.
So to set the maximum speed, wind up the Speed control until you get the desired DC voltage across the locomotive’s motor or you
obtain the maximum speed you require. Depending on the different types of locomotive on your layout, the MAXIMUM SPEED setting
may have to be compromise.
Once you have obtained the desired value, press the Up or Down switch and the display will momentarily show LOADED. Thus, the new
maximum speed setting will be loaded and shown in brackets. The motor will now run up to this new maximum speed setting.
Minimum Speed
Now select MINIMUM SPEED and you can go through the same process. In this case
the lower line shows SET<at> 107? (1). Again the 107 could be any number between 0
and 204 depending on the position of VR1, while the number in brackets is the actual
minimum speed setting. Adjust the Speed control to a low setting that is just at the
point where the motor stops (or is about to start) The SET<at> reading will probably be
around 1 to 5, or maybe higher with motors that require more voltage to start. Again, you can store this value by pressing the Up or Down
switch and the word LOADED will appear briefly. The stored value will show in the bracketed section of the display.
Pulse
At this point you will probably become aware of the noise the locomotive makes
at the low speed settings. If it is quite apparent, you may want to change the PULSE
setting. Initially, it will be 122Hz and that is probably the optimum setting with most
model locomotives but give it a try at 488Hz or 1953Hz.
Once you have decided on the PULSE frequency setting, you may need to go back
and reset the MINIMUM SPEED. You cannot have the minimum speed setting the same as or larger than maximum speed setting. If you
make a mistake here, to solve the problem, you need to redo the adjustments. Generally you would need to initially select 204 for the
maximum and 0 for the minimum values first before readjusting the minimum and maximum values again for your requirements.
Note that while the displayed numbers range from 0 through to 204 in increments of 1, the actual control is over 816 values. So depending on the resolution of the Speed control potentiometer, it is possible to obtain up to four speed settings between each value increment
on the display. This extra resolution can be useful for the minimum speed setting. The stored values include this extra resolution.
Note also that if you are using a standard 16mm potentiometer for the Speed control, this fine resolution probably will not be
possible.
Lockout & Default
LOCKOUT and DEFAULT speeds can now be adjusted. Lockout sets the speed above
which forward and reverse changes are prevented, ie, “locked out”. We suggest that
you set it to a very low speed, similar to that used in shunting.
The Default setting is the speed that is applied each time you turn on the Railpower
when the remote control is used. It does not apply when you are using the front panel
Speed control (local).
Initial default settings for Maximum, Minimum, Lockout and Default are 180, 1, 8
and 64, respectively.
Local/Remote
This selects whether speed is controlled via the front panel Speed control or
infrared remote control. You can toggle between either setting using the Up or
Down switches.
76 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Code
Next, you need to select the CODE for the infrared remote control. You can select
between TV, SAT1 or SAT2 using the Down switch. Normally, TV would be selected
(the default setting). SAT1 or SAT2 are used when you have more than one Railpower
controller used on the same layout vicinity.
Note that there is a number in brackets (0 to 9) following the code selection. This
sets the rate at which the Railpower decodes the infrared data, because some remote units are slow or fast compared with the correct
data transmission rate of the RC5 code. The number can be changed using the Up switch. In practice you select the number that works
best with your remote unit.
Note that if you press the RUN/SET switch, the display is returned to the RUN mode showing the speed settings. You can then test the
remote unit for reliability. You can quickly toggle between the settings mode and the CODE selection using the Mode switch.
Inertia
Inertia is the next selection. This selects the rate at which a locomotive changes its
speed (accelerate or decelerate). The number is adjustable from 0 to 100, using the
Up and Down switches. You will want to try several different values, depending on the
size of your layout and the locomotives and length of the trains to be run. If you are
using Inertia value of 60 or more, the locomotive will take several minutes to reach its
set speed from a complete stop, or to go from the set speed to stop.
Stop
The Stop value is selected next and is the rate at which the locomotive comes to a
halt when the Stop button is pressed. It also can be adjusted from between 0 and 100
but typically you will not want to use very high values otherwise it is too difficult to
judge just when and where the locomotive will come to a halt.
Feedback
This value can be set between 0 and 100 and corresponds to the degree that the
motor back-EMF affects speed regulation. A low value will mean that the locomotive
will tend to slow down more when pulling a train up an incline. Hence, the setting you
use will be a compromise between ease of running trains around the layout versus
reality, ie, a heavy train should slow down when going up a hill unless the throttle
is advanced.
Also, trimpot VR2 also needs to be adjusted to provide optimum control. Generally, VR2 is set so the motor speed does not change
much (when set to a slow speed) between when feedback values are 0 and at around 40 or 50. If in doubt, just set VR2 is to mid-point.
Speed Ramp
This value, adjustable from 0 to 255, selects the rate at which the Speed Setting
will change when under infrared remote control. If 0 is selected, the speed setting
will change slowly under remote control. In practice, a setting between 10 and 20 is
fine. Any faster than that and you will find it tricky to make small changes in speed.
Universal remote controls
Further testing requires a universal or “pre-programmed” remote control. In this case, one with very few controls is the way to go. If
you are going to build only one Railpower for your layout we suggest the AR-1703 from Jaycar. It is small and only has the control buttons
you need. It does have one drawback and that is that it can only be used for the TV code.
If you intend to have more than one Railpower on your layout, you will need a remote control with the SAT1 and SAT2 codes available.
One such unit is the Altronics A-1009.
Programming the remote
The best approach is to initially program the remote control for a Philips brand TV (just follow the instructions supplied with the unit).
In most cases, programming involves simultaneously pressing the “Set” button and the button for the item that is to be operated. In other
words, press the “Set” and “TV” buttons together and enter a number for a Philips TV set. In this case, the Altronics A-1009 uses the
number 026 for the TV code and 424 and 425 for SAT1 and SAT2, respectively.
For the Jaycar AR-1703 use 11414. If you are using a different remote control, just select a number for a Philips TV set. If you later find
that this doesn’t work, try another number for a Philips TV.
Having programmed the remote, check that the Speed can be raised or lowered when the Volume Up and Down buttons are pressed.
Check that the directions can be changed with the channel Up and Down buttons. Also check that the Mute button stops the loco and the
Operate button switches Inertia on and off.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 77
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Rabbit’s advanced Wi-Fi connectivity
Rabbit’s new RCM5400W RabbitCore module series, which provides
Wi-Fi/802.11b/g functionality, enables
you to create low-cost, embedded
wireless control and communications
solutions.
RabbitCore modules mount directly
onto a user-designed motherboard and
act as the controlling microprocessor
for the system. Measuring only 47 × 72
× 14 mm, the Rabbit 5000 microprocessor-based RCM5400W series delivers
the capability to integrate real-time
control and Wi-Fi connectivity into
your design.
Additional features over the proven
Rabbit 4000 microprocessor include
hardware DMA, higher clock speeds,
more I/O lines, six serial ports, and
more instructions to reduce code size
and improve processing speed.
Applications include industrial
control, remote terminal unit, serialto-ethernet bridge, building automa-
tion, remote monitoring and
communications and security
and surveillance.
A complete development
kit is available which includes
the RCM5400W microprocessor core module, development
board with prototyping area,
Dynamic C 10 development system and complete documentation on CD-ROM, serial cable for
programming and debugging,
Getting
Started
manual,
and AC
adaptor.
PICAXE USB
Programming Cable
With so many PCs and laptops now
not sporting serial ports, it was only a
matter of time before Revolution Education released a USB version of the
popular PICAXE programming cable.
Here it is, courtesy of local agents
Microzed. It’s not simply a cable – the
USB “plug” also contains the smarts
needed so the PICAXE chips can understand USB lingo. It’s 1.8m long and
recommended retail price is $38.95.
Contact:
Contact:
Unit 13, 82 Reserve Rd, Artarmon NSW 2064
Tel: (02) 9906 6988 Fax: (02) 9906 7145
Website: www.dominion.net.au
PO Box 5103, Chittaway Bay NSW 2261
Tel: 1300 735 420 Fax: 1300 735 421
Website: www.microzed.com.au
Dominion Electronics
Microzed
ANTRIM
The long and the short of Powerboards!
Australian electrical and telephone
accessories company, Jackson Industries, has released two new model
powerboards, both of which come with
a lifetime replacement warranty.
But that’s not the big story – one of
the two is a massive two metres long,
containing no less than ten outlets.
With surge protection and overload
protection inbuilt, the bright orange
powerboard is made from metal for
durability and also has inbuilt radio
frequency interference filtering along
with an illuminated on/off switch.
The outlets are spaced 200mm apart,
which means any plug-packs will easily
fit on the board.
The PT8282 2-metre powerboard is
available nationally through Bunnings
Warehouses and has a recommended
retail price of $99.00
At the other end
of the scale is the
tiny PT2MICRO twinoutlet powerboard,
intended mainly for
travellers through
Australia, NZ and
82 Silicon Chip
China with standard 3-pin
outlets, both of which are
surge protected.
Its 90cm power cord is
designed to wrap around the
powerboard case. A travel case
is included which will fit the
twin powerboard along with
any extra mains cables and
adaptors for other countries
which you might need.
It is priced at $16.95 and
is available from Bunnings,
K-Mart, Officeworks and
BIGW.
TRANSFORMERS
manufactured in
Australia by
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
harbuch<at>optusnet.com.au
Toroidal – Conventional Transformers
Power – Audio – Valve – ‘Specials’
Medical – Isolated – Stepup/down
Encased Power Supplies
Toroidal General
Construction
OUTER
INSULATION
OUTER
WINDING
WINDING
INSULATION
INNER
WINDING
CORE
CORE
INSULATION
Comprehensive data available:
Contact:
Jackson Industries
Norwest Busn Park, Baulkham Hills NSW 2153
Tel: (02) 9899 8833 Fax: (02) 9899 8378
Website: www.ji.com.au
www.harbuch.com.au
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl, HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476 5854 Fax (02) 9476 3231
siliconchip.com.au
Avcomm’s new model SSB/SW/AM/FM receiver
Avcomm really hit a “sweet
spot” in the market with their
Degen 1103 HF SSB receiver, featured in SILICON CHIP in January
2007, with several hundred sold.
Avcomm’s Garry Cratt said
that most portable receivers on
the market don’t offer SSB reception – and it seems that many
listeners like to have this facility
available.
However, many users didn’t
like the shared tune and volume
controls and a few other “features”
of the Degen – so Avcomm sourced
an updated model to cater for those
requests.
The unit offers improved “S” meter
(signal strength) display, a larger BFO
for easier adjustment of SSB reception.
The LCD display shows the frequency
directly as entered, anywhere between
100kHz and 29999kHz.
Several parameters previously
embedded in software are now user
selectable. These are AM channel spacing (User selectable: 9kHz or 10kHz)
and the FM band frequency limits
(88-108MHz or 76-108MHz). LW is user
selectable On or Off. In addition the
Tel: (03) 8677 1411 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2008<at>ozitronics.com
STEPPER
MOTOR DRIVERS
Ideal for use with Serial Stepper Motor
Controller kit featured in July 2005 issue.
UNIPOLAR motor driver
8-30V DC <at> 6A
PCB 80x50mm K179 -
$27.50
BIPOLAR motor driver
8-30V DC <at> 6A max.
K158 - $34.10
More kits & documentation available on website:
www.ozitronics.com
expanded memory capacity (600 channels) can now be arranged in groups.
RF performance is identical to that
of the popular Degen 1103, and the
unit is now supplied with an approved
regulated battery charger/power supply
with RFI suppression.
Retail price is $179 including the
stereo earpieces, long-wire antenna and
carry bag shown above.
Contact:
Avcomm
Unit 24/9 Powells Rd, Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Website: www.avcomm.com.au
PC-Programmable universal remote control
There’s a huge variety of “universal”
remote controls around – but this is
one of the very few that’s programmable (via USB) from your PC.
According to Wagner Electronic Services, programming this is as simple
as connecting the supplied programmer module to your PC, running the
supplied CD catalog program, then
selecting the desired brand and clicking program.
That should be a boon to all of the
programming-challenged amongst us
(eg, anyone over about 12 years of
siliconchip.com.au
Ozitronics
age!) where most normal programmable remote controls require a PhD
in button-pushing.
Apprentice tool kits
from Cooper Tools
Each of the three new Apprentice Tool Kits
from Cooper Tools has a range of specially
selected tools to suit the apprentice electrician, carpenter or plumber. Each of the kits,
individually valued at around $1200, is priced
at just $799 and offers products including
Crescent, HK Porter, Lufkin, Nicholson,
Plumb, Weller and Wiss.
The Cooper Tools Apprentice kits include
more than $300 worth of additional tools and
importantly qualify for government support
for the apprentice under the TFYT program.
However any tradie can also purchase any
of these kits.
Apprentice selecting these kits can be confident they will receive tools from a reputable
supplier, backed by a quality guarantee and
after-sales service, that will serve them well
for years to come.
Contact:
Contact:
138 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield NSW 2131
Tel: (02) 9798 9233 Fax: (02) 9798 0017
Website: www.wagner.net.au
519 Nurigong St, Albury NSW 2640
Tel: (02) 6058 0334 Fax: (02) 6021 7403
Website: www.cooperhandtools.com.au
Wagner Electronic Services
:
Cooper Hand Tools
300VA transformer for Ultra-LD Mk2 amplifier
Harbuch Electronics have made available a 300VA toroidal transformer for the
Ultra-LD Mk2 amplifier described in the
August & September 2008 issues.
Mindful of the fact that the windings
of toroidal transformers can be prone to
buzz, Harbuch have filled the centre of
the windings with an epoxy resin. This
will certainly quieten any tendency to
buzz as well as providing a very secure
anchor for the central bolt.
The two 40V windings are each rated
at 3.6A while the 15V winding, intended
for the preamplifier and loudspeaker
protection duties, is rated at 0.5A. The
SC
Cat No is PTT-5391.
Contact:
Harbuch Electronics
9/40 Leighton Place, Hornsby NSW 2077
Tel: (02) 9476 5854 Fax: (02) 9476 3231
Website: www.harbuch.com.au
October 2008 83
Another reader’s approach to
exposing photo PC Boards. . .
Cook ’em in the
old microwave!
I decided to build the UV exposure box for photo-sensitive PC
boards, as published in the November 2007 SILICON CHIP. The first
thought I had was to use the timer module in an old microwave
oven, instead of building the timer design used in the project.
Then I thought: “Why not use the whole oven?”
W
hy not, indeed? I wouldn’t
have the lid of the original
design to clamp the transparency down onto the PC board but
this could be overcome by making a
platter and using a sheet of glass to
apply enough weight to ensure intimate contact.
When activated, the platter-motor of
the oven, slowly rotates the PC board
pattern within the UV light, providing
a very even exposure of your pattern.
I can obtain very even and consistent
results with transparency film and
about 30-40 seconds exposure time
84 Silicon Chip
(although I tend to pre-heat the tubes
for five minutes first). There is a significant difference in both light output
and colour temperature between a
just-turned-on tube and one which
has been on for a few minutes.
One big advantage of using an old
microwave oven: just as when the
oven was an oven, when the time is
up, the oven beeps loudly at you, to
tell you that your board has finished
cooking exposing!
By Graeme Rixon
So I bought a secondhand microwave oven for $5 from my local refuse
recycle centre, in a “working but no
glass turntable” state. If your council
has kerbside cleanups, you may well
find one that’s about $5 cheaper.
By far the majority of microwave
ovens are discarded because a 30c
high-voltage diode has blown. But
we don’t even need that because we
aren’t interested in the cooking side
of things.
The only things you need to check,
when looking for an oven to convert, is
that (a) the timer and its display works
siliconchip.com.au
WARNING: MICROWAVE OVENS CAN BE LETHAL!
A microwave oven is a very dangerous device. Even service personnel who are very familiar with them will tell you they are
not their favourite equipment to work on. A microwave oven operates at a potential of several thousand volts and contact with
any part of the high voltage circuitry can be (and indeed has been) fatal. Even a microwave oven which has been turned off
for some time may have enough energy stored to give a potentially lethal shock.
NEVER operate a microwave oven without the cover on and secured and without the door interlocks operating.
This article is intended for those who are experienced with mains device wiring in general and microwave ovens in particular.
Follow exactly the steps outlined in this article regarding making the microwave oven safe before, and as you modify it.
and (b) that the platter motor turns. It
does not matter if the oven has a glass
platter or not – I made my own from
a sheet of MDF and an old speaker.
Stripping the oven
Stop! Don’t go in like a bull at a
gate and start cutting wiring willynilly. If you don’t heed the warnings
further on, that could be as far as you
get. Forever.
First step is to physically cut off the
mains power lead outside the case so
that no-one, yourself included, can
possibly energise the oven without
its cover on.
OK, now that should render it
harmless, right? Don’t you believe it!
Even when not connected to power;
even when it hasn’t been powered
up for some time, a microwave oven
can bite!
Make no mistake – contact with
the high voltage capacitor, even with
the oven off, can be fatal – you have
been warned.
The high voltage capacitor must be
safely discharged before you proceed
any further. SILICON CHIP published an
article in the August 2003 issue (pages
84-87) on how to re-use the timer
module from a microwave oven and
this covers the safety concerns well.
The oven was carefully stripped
of the magnetron, high-voltage transformer and capacitor, platter rollers,
cooling fan, and oven light – these
were simply discarded. All mains
wiring was removed, so that a custom
wiring loom could be installed.
Once you have removed the capacitor, do not simply throw it in the
bin without a shorting link across its
terminals, as the voltage across these
capacitors can regenerate over time.
Maybe it’s not enough to kill but if
the terminals are contacted with it is
enough to give you, or the poor rubbish
man or woman a bad jolt (especially
with wet hands).
To discard the capacitor, I re-used
a simple spade-to-spade jumper lead
from the original oven wiring and
installed it across the capacitor terminals, before disposing of the unit.
Failing this, a piece of bare copper
wire twisted firmly around the terminals will do.
With all the HT wiring, etc, out of
the way, you can set about actually
building the UV oven. We make use
of the existing oven timer module, as
more often then not, it contains its
own power supply and transformer.
All you have to do is connect the
240V AC mains to it, to have a fully
functional timer, complete with output switching relay. All the features
of the oven timer are used, such as
the door-switch, which will stop the
time and shutoff the tubes, if the door
to the oven is opened while the tubes
are running – the exact same concept
that shuts off the magnetron when the
oven was an oven.
The tubes are 15W blacklight-white
tubes (NEC type FL15BL) and they are
fitted in rubber bushes, fixed to holes
bored through the oven cavity. The
bushes prevent the tubes breaking if
the oven gets a bump.
With the pilot holes for the tube
placement marked and drilled, you
then have to cut the large holes for the
plugs to fit in the oven wall.
I drilled the holes in the very oldfashioned way of marking the size
of the hole for the plug using the
pilot hole as a centre reference, and
then drilling a series of small holes
These two photos show the wiring between the starters (bottom of pics) and the tubes above. This wiring is the same as
shown in the November 2007 article. Can you spot the really bad mistake? Using green/gold wire for ANYTHING but
earth wiring is a big no-no, despite the clear warning sign printed on the side of the oven. Always remember that green/
gold is only for Earth, brown is only for Active and blue is only for Neutral.
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 85
Inside the old microwave oven showing the positioning of the 15W blacklight fluoro tubes through the oven wall. The
ballasts were fitted where the old high voltage transformer and capacitor were originally located and completely new
mains wiring loom fitted. The timer has its own transformer; this is left intact and is used to switch the fluoros and
turntable motor on and off. At the end of the chosen time, the “oven” dings to tell you the board is properly “cooked”!
Once again, note our comments on the use of green/gold wire – it must not be used for anything but an earth connection.
around the edge of the line, then using a metal cutting drill-bit to bridge
all the small holes. The rough edges
of the holes were filed a little, to take
away the sharp points but there is no
need to make the holes perfect – the
rubber bushes will protect the glass of
the tubes from any sharp edges from
the holes.
If you are prepared to sacrifice a
hole-saw blade, one of these could
be used to cut the holes instead. But
as the walls of the oven are usually
stainless steel, be prepared to blunt
the hole-saw very quickly. Still, it will
save you a significant amount of time.
The rubber bushes I used are intended for use as body plugs. They
are commonly used in the vehicle
industry to seal holes in car bodies.
The ones I used were 45mm in diameter and cost about $5 each. When
purchased, these plugs are all rubber,
and a suitably-sized hole has to be cut
in each one, to allow the tube to pass
through it.
I made a “punch” to cut my holes
out of an 11/16 socket from an old
socket set, sharpened around the edge
with a bench grinder. You then line up
the socket and plug in a medium-sized
vise (with a wood block behind the
plug), and tighten up the vise hard to
cut the hole through the plug.
Ideally, you want a hole in the plug
which is slightly smaller then the diameter of the tube, so that when the
tube is inserted, it is a nice firm fit
in the plug. Two of these plugs will
hold the tube firmly in place within
An old speaker frame is used to raise the 30cm MDF
“platten” up closer to the UV tubes, for shorter exposure
times. The speaker even comes with suitable mounting holes!
86 Silicon Chip
the oven cavity, and protect the tube
glass at the same time.
My 11/16 “punch” gave me a nearperfect 24mm hole in the plug, making
the tube a nice, firm-but-not-too-tight
fit. Fit the plugs to the oven first, then
insert the tube through them. Smear a
little Vaseline around the inside edge
of the hole in the plug, to aid in fitting
the tube.
If the turntable is missing (they
usually are!) one can made from a
circle of 12mm thick MDF - I traced
around an old LP record to get the
12” size I wanted. Tracing around the
centre hole in the record also gave me
an accurate centre reference for the
wood disc.
The normal oven turntable position
is really a bit too far away from the UV
And here’s a shot showing how it all fits in. Actual distance
between the tubes and PC board is not critical – about right
is about right!
siliconchip.com.au
tubes, so I mounted mine on an old
8-inch speaker chassis. This was then
mounted to the old oven platter-motor
spigot.
Find a suitable speaker – you can
remove the cone and coil if you want
to but it won’t matter if you don’t. A
hole is then drilled directly through
the magnet core and the platter-motor
spigot is bolted to the speaker chassis
magnet.
That done, the speaker chassis is
lined up and centred on the MDF disc
and simply screwed on as if you were
mounting the speaker in the normal
way, making use of the speaker chassis
mounting holes.
The turntable assembly is then
pushed onto the platter-motor driveshaft, in the middle of the bottom
of the oven cavity. A Nylon washer
smeared with Vaseline on both sides
is placed between the platter spigot
and the oven floor itself, to prevent
binding.
The PC board is placed facing
upwards on the “turntable” and the
transparency pattern then laid on top,
A small sheet of 6mm thick glass then
placed on top of that, to hold the pattern in close-contact with the board.
This requires that you cut the normal A4 sized transparency to size but
I only make small boards anyway – I
have never needed to make A4-sized
boards, so this is no real problem (for
me).
The electrical system is essentially
the same concept as that published in
the November 2007 issue of SILICON
CHIP, except that the tubes are 15W
types, and the ballasts are 30W type.
I bought the tubes for $20 per tube,
delivered by mail.
Most lighting specialists will either
have these tubes or be able to get them
Finally, a shot with
the lamps lit. The
door interlock has
been defeated for
this photo but the
interlock should be
used so that when
the door is open,
the UV tubes go
out. So are these
tubes dangerous?
No, not in normal
use but you
wouldn’t want kids
staring into them
for long periods. . .
for you (they’re used in electronic bug
killers to attract the bugs).
The two ballasts are mounted to
the base of the oven, where the highvoltage transformer and capacitor
were. The starters are on the base of
the oven, on the other side of the oven
cavity. The starter sockets and ballasts
were stripped from old light fittings.
The connections to the tube terminals were made using 16 PC boardmount terminal blocks. As it happened, the terminal shape was round
and fitted perfectly the connections to
the tube filaments.
The primary reason for choosing
these was that I needed to bring the
connections from the tubes out at
right-angles to the tubes themselves,
for neatness – and especially on the
starter-side of the oven cavity, as there
is not much room there.
Each terminal was soldered to a 10A
wire, by inserting the pin of the terminal into the centre of the strands of the
wire, then soldering, so that the wire
is connected centrally to the terminal
pin, instead of soldered alongside.
This produces a much neater looking
connection between the terminal and
the wire, when it is heatshrunk, over
a side-by-side soldered connection.
Wire was obtained by buying a
10-metre 10A extension cord, cutting
off the plug and about three metres of
cable (this becomes the oven power
cord!), and the socket end of the extension lead right at the end. The socket
is disposed of.
The three cores of the extension
cable ripped from the sheath provided
about seven metres of blue, brown and
yellow/green 10A wire with which to
wire up the oven, at minimum cost.
If you elect to use hookup wire instead, make sure it is rated at 250V AC
or higher (ordinary electronic hookup
wire is generally rated at 100-150V so
is not suitable), hence the reason for
using wires stripped from a mains
extension cord.
All mains terminal blocks in the
oven had small pieces of insulating
plastic underneath them to offer a little
extra protection against a stray strand
perhaps touching the oven case. The
same plastic was also installed under
all the starter sockets. The plastic came
from an old DVD case, which was simSC
ply cut up with big scissors.
into MOTORS/CONTROL?
Electric Motors and
Drives – by Austin Hughes
Fills the gap between textbooks and
handbooks. Intended for nonspecialist users; explores all
of the widely-used motor
$
55 types.
Practical Variable
Speed Drives
– by Malcolm Barnes
An essential reference for engineers
and anyone who wishes to
or use variable
$
94 design
speed drives.
AC Machines – by Jim Lowe
Applicable to Australian trade-level
courses including NE10, NE12 and
parts of NE30. Covers all types of
AC motors.
$
66
DVD Players and
Drives – by KF Ibrahim
DVD technology and applications with
emphasis on design, maintenance
and repair. Iideal for engineers, technicians, students, instal$
85 lation and sales staff.
There’s something to suit every
microcontroller
motor/control master
maestroininthe
the
SILICON CHIP reference bookshop:
see the bookshop pages in this issue
Robot Builder’s
Cookbook – by Jim Lowe
For the first-time builder, advanced
builder and robotics student. Provides
a painless explanation
$
63 of robot programming.
Switching Power
Supplies – by Sanjaya Maniktala
Theoretical and practical aspects of
controlling EMI in switching power
supplies. Includes bonus
$
CD-ROM.
106
! Audio ! RF ! Digital ! Analog ! TV ! Video ! Power Control ! Motors ! Robots ! Drives ! Op Amps ! Satellite
siliconchip.com.au
October 2008 87
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The AWA Radiola 653P
AC/Battery Portable
The Heyday Of Valve Portables
First released in 1954, the AWA Radiola
653P was a 6-valve portable receiver that
could operate from both batteries and
mains power. It’s a good performer that’s
easy to restore and get going.
C
OMMERCIALLY-manufactured
portable valve radios first appeared around 1925 with the introduction of sets like the RCA26 6-valve
receiver (see SILICON CHIP, August
2008). However, sets of the RCA26’s
calibre were well before their time and
88 Silicon Chip
weren’t particularly common.
In fact, early portables varied greatly both in terms of quality and performance. From 1925 onwards, a few
manufacturers dabbled in making
“portables” using 2V valves and vibrator power supplies but serious pro-
duction of Australian-made portables
didn’t occur until 1939. That’s because
commercially-viable portables had to
wait until the introduction of the octal
1.4V battery valves that required only
90V of high-tension (HT) supply.
From that time onwards portables
became more popular, although World
War II slowed their introduction
considerably. The octal 1.4V valves
were subsequently commonly used
up until around 1950, sometimes in
combination with the much later 7-pin
miniature types. After that, the 1.4V
7-pin miniatures were used almost
exclusively.
The 1950s saw the development of
good-performing 5-valve and 6-valve
battery-portable receivers. These sets
usually used a No.745 1.4V battery for
the filaments and two No.482 45V batteries in series to give a 90V HT supply.
This combination gave a battery life of
around 300 hours.
Mains/battery portables
Because they could so easily be
taken from room to room, many people
also wanted to use portable sets in the
home. As a result, the manufacturers
developed portables that could be
powered both from the mains and
from batteries. This meant that the
set could be run economically from
the mains around the house, with the
expensive batteries reserved for truly
portable applications when no mains
power was available.
In many cases, the batteries used
in these sets were smaller than those
used in the battery-only portables and
siliconchip.com.au
This is the view inside the Radiola 653P 6-valve portable. Note that the chassis
is mounted upside down, with the valves secured in place using valve clips. The
batteries are normally stored in the space at bottom left.
therefore had a shorter life. The AWA
653P AC/battery receiver described
here was one such set.
To get around this problem, some
manufacturers at that time experimented with “reactivation”. This
involved recharging the batteries from
the mains (to a certain extent) to prolong their useful life.
Unfortunately, I’ve been unable to
find any literature that indicates just
how successful reactivation really
was. I suspect that, used correctly, it
may have extended battery life by up
to four times.
Because reactivation was being used
to recharge primary cells, set owners
would have needed to watch out for
leaking batteries. This could typically
occur if the recharging process was not
uniform in a cell, thereby causing some
locations in a cell to be “eaten through”
over a period of use and leak corrosive
chemicals. In fact, the remaining HT
battery from my set looks as though it
siliconchip.com.au
has suffered from this problem.
The manufacture of valve portables
(with or without reactivation) quickly
ceased with the advent of transistor
portables. The latter had many advantages: they were more compact,
weighed less, consumed considerably
less power and were much less expensive to run. The batteries in transistor
sets not only lasted longer but also
cost a fraction of those used in valve
portables.
AWA 653P 5/6-valve portable
The AWA Radiola 653P first went
on sale in 1954, a time that was right
in the middle of the heyday of good
valve portables. It can be powered from
either mains AC or dry batteries and
also includes provision for recharging
the dry batteries.
This set was housed the same plastic
cabinet used for the battery-only version and measures 330 x 249 x 150mm
(W x H x D), including the knobs and
handle. As shown in the photos, the
cabinet of my set is maroon and cream
and features a slide-rule dial-scale at
the top of the front panel. It weighs
4.7kg without batteries and just under
6kg with batteries.
At the top of the set is a carrying
handle which is made of hard rubber.
This handle drops down onto the top
of the cabinet when not in use. The
control knobs were mounted at the
ends of the cabinet.
All in all, it’s quite attractive in
appearance but like other portables,
it wasn’t cheap. This set sold for 30
pounds and nine shillings in 1955,
an amount that represented several
weeks’ wages for the average person.
Inside the set
Turning two screws at the back
through 90° and then laying the back
down gives access to the inside of the
set and to the batteries and AC power
lead. As can be seen in the photos, the
chassis is mounted upside down at the
top of the cabinet, with the AC power
supply at the right. The valves are all
October 2008 89
This under-chassis view shows the unit prior to restoration. All but one of the large black paper capacitors were replaced
with polyester types. The original power cord was secured using a knot, which is now illegal.
This view shows the chassis after the paper capacitors had been replaced. An
electrolytic filter capacitor was also replaced, along with two charred resistors.
held in position by clips, so that they
don’t fall out.
The six-inch speaker is in the centre of the cabinet against the front,
while the two batteries sit on the
bottom lefthand side of the case and
are held in place by brackets. The AC
power cord is stored in the space to
their right, beneath the power supply
transformer.
As in other valve portables of the
90 Silicon Chip
era, this set employed a flat loop antenna. This is glued and held in place
on the inside back panel of the set
using clamps.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details of the AWA Radiola 653P.
As shown, the tuned loop antenna
(L1) is connected to a radio frequency
(RF) amplifier stage based on a 1T4
valve (V1). Its output is then applied
to tuned RF transformer L2/L3 and fed
to a 1R5 converter valve (V2).
Following V2, the signal is fed via
455kHz IF transformer L6 & L7 to IF
amplifier stage V3 (1T4). This IF amplifier stage is neutralised via C17 in
a bridge circuit. The amplified signal
is then applied to a second IF transformer (L8 & L9) and from there to the
detector/AGC diode in V4 (1S5). The
detected audio is then fed via volume
control R10 to a 1S5 pentode, amplified and fed to a 3V4 output stage.
Note that when AGC/AVC is applied
to series-connected filament valves,
care must be taken to ensure that
the AGC not only works but that the
bias requirements for each valve are
met. As a result, I noted the voltage
at the positive filament terminal of
each valve so that the bias could be
determined (note: the filaments are
connected in series).
In this set, 9V is applied to V5, then
6V to V1, 4.5V to V2, 3.0V to V4 and
finally 1.5V to V3 (note: V5 is a dualfilament valve). The AGC output from
V4 is applied to V1 and V2 only.
A voltage divider network from the
+6V rail consisting of resistors R1, R2
& R5 operates with the AGC bias (at
the diode output of V4) to provide
effective AGC to the two controlled
stages (ie, V1 & V2). However, V3 has
no bias applied to it all and runs at full
output at all times.
By contrast, the 3V4 (V5) derives its
bias from the +1.5V at V3’s positive
siliconchip.com.au
filament. This, together with the +6V
at the 3V4’s negative filament terminal,
gives a bias of around -4.5V.
The power supply is more complicated than usual. That’s because,
as previously stated, the set can run
from either mains or battery power.
In addition, the supply is capable of
providing charging current for the
battery reactivation process.
The power switch has five positions labelled Full, Save, Off, AC and
Reactivate. In the “Full” position, the
9V and 90V batteries are connected
to the set.
When switched to “Save”, a 1.8kW
resistor is connected in series with the
90V battery to conserve power while
in the “Off” position, both the batteries
and the AC mains are disconnected.
In the “AC” position, mains power
is switched to the transformer which
then feeds a 6X4 rectifier (V6). Approximately 120V DC is produced at
the output of the rectifier and this is
dropped to 9V by resistors R12 and
R13 which are switched in series with
the filaments and to 90V by R14 for the
HT supply. Capacitors C28, C29a and
C29b do the filtering.
Note that because the rectifier is
only a half-wave type, the filter capacitor values are considerably higher
than for a full-wave system. This
is necessary to ensure well-filtered
supplies for the filaments and plates
of the valves.
Note also that the AC power supply
circuit layout is rather unusual in that
the plates of the 6X4 valve are wired
to chassis while the cathode is connected to the relevant secondary of the
power transformer. This is opposite to
method used to wire power supplies
in normal AC receivers. It’s done so
that in the “Reactivate” mode, the 9V
and 90V batteries are not connected
to each other via a resistor string if
the power is switched off at the mains
instead of at the set.
Finally, when the power switch is
in the “Reactivate” position, the two
anodes of the 6X4 are separated so that
the charging circuit for each battery is
entirely separate. In this case, one still
goes to chassis but the other is now
connected to the negative terminal of
the 9V battery.
Dismantling the receiver
Dismantling this set for service is
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is a 6-valve superhet with power derived either from the
240V AC mains or from a 90V HT battery and 9V filament battery.
Power supply circuit
straightforward. First, the three knobs
are pulled off their control shafts
although this was slightly difficult
on this set because there was some
paste or grease on the shafts that had
partially solidified.
Next, with the back of the set open,
I pulled the 90V battery out (it was
the only one fitted) and disconnected
it. Unfortunately, the battery plug
had corroded due to battery leakage
and broke but I had some spares on
hand.
The antenna plug and the speaker
October 2008 91
The flat loop antenna has its turns glued together and is clamped to the inside
back of the cabinet. The attached note shows the valve locations and details
how the batteries and power cord are stored.
plug were also removed and the earth
wire from the chassis to the earth
terminal was desoldered. The covers
over the handle mounting screws were
then removed, followed by the two
screws hidden under the two higher
knobs. This gave me access to the
chassis retaining screws which were
also removed.
That done, the chassis was lifted out
of the cabinet, ready for restoration.
Once the chassis was out, the cabinet was dusted out and washed using
soapy water and a sponge. The knobs
were then given the same treatment,
with any remaining gunk on the knobs
and on the control shafts removed using kerosene.
Although the cabinet looked clean
after this treatment, its surfaces were
quite pitted due to a rather hard life.
As a result, I attacked it using some
automotive cut and polish cream
and most of the marks disappeared.
Some, however, were just too deep
to be removed and so although the
cabinet now looks quite reasonable,
it’s certainly not in pristine condition.
The chassis was cleaned using a
kerosene-soaked kitchen scourer and
the small amount of gunk that was
on it came off quite easily. In fact, it
came up quite well, with just slight
discolouration in a few spots.
Restoring the circuit
In order to access the parts under the
92 Silicon Chip
chassis, it’s first necessary to remove a
metal shield that’s attached to the bottom. This is easily done by removing
five self-tapping screws.
With the shield removed, inspection
of the under chassis components revealed that virtually nothing had been
done to the receiver during its life. At
this point, it was time to make a few
basic checks before I risked applying
power to the receiver.
First, with the set turned off and
disconnected from both AC power and
the batteries, I checked the filament
line for continuity. In practice, this
involved checking between pin 7 of
the 3V4 and chassis and I measured
around 80W, which is the cold resistance of the filaments in the series
valve string.
This was a good start but I did notice
that two 3W resistors, R12 and R13,
had been charred and blackened due
to overheating. That wasn’t so good,
although both resistors still measured
correctly.
Next, I endeavoured to test all the
electrolytic capacitors even though my
capacitance tester only covers values
up to 40mF. These checks revealed that
C28 was down to just 0.18mF, which
meant that it was virtually open circuit. It was replaced with a 500mF 25V
electrolytic.
The remaining electrolytics were
all close to their correct values and so
were left in circuit.
The paper capacitors were the
next suspects, as most prove to have
excessive leakage resistance. In highimpedance circuits, this alters the
operating conditions of the valves and
causes lots of problems. Replacement
polyester or similar capacitors are
cheap but for the sake of authenticity,
I only replace those capacitors with
excessive leakage.
If, for example, a paper capacitor
is wired across a cathode resistor, I
would not replace the capacitor, as
even a capacitor with high leakage
would not noticeably alter the operating conditions of the valve.
The resistors were also checked and
these were all within their tolerance
range of 20%. However, I did subsequently find it necessary to add an
18kW resistor in parallel with R12 to
obtain the correct voltage on the filament line, even though the resistors in
this line were within tolerance.
Sets of this era came fitted with
2-core (figure-8) power lead, so the
chassis wasn’t earthed. A figure-8
lead was also necessary in this set so
that it could be “folded” up and fitted
inside the case when the set was used
as a portable.
In my case though, I wasn’t going
to use the set as a portable, so this
didn’t matter. As a result, I decided
to earth the chassis in the interests of
safety. This meant that I had to slightly
enlarge the cable exit point in order
to accommodate a 3-core cable. This
cable was securely anchored using a
cable clamp.
Testing & troubleshooting
At this stage, everything looked
in order. Apart from the component
changes, I had checked that there
were no shorts on the HT line and had
double-checked the filament supply
line to ensure that no more than 9V
would be applied to the valve filament string.
It was time for the smoke test. I
plugged the mains power cord into
the wall socket, turned the set on and
after about 30 seconds, the receiver
burst into life. It didn’t exactly blast
me out of the workshop but at least it
was going.
Next, I checked the voltages applied
to the valves. The HT line measured
85V and there was only about 6.8V going to the filament line. I then checked
the voltage across filter capacitor C29A
and it measured around 105V but
siliconchip.com.au
should have been 120V.
So both the HT and filament voltages
were low, which explained why the
output of the set was so low. But what
was causing the problem?
I checked the voltage across the
transformer’s secondary winding and
found it to be 130V. This is correct so
I tried replacing the 6X4 rectifier and
the voltage rose to around 89V on the
HT line and to about 7.5V on the filament line.
The HT voltage was now correct but
the filament voltage needed increasing
slightly. As a result, I tried connecting
different value resistors across resistor
R12 and finally settled on a value of
18kW, which brought the voltage up
to 8V. This gave just over 1.3V across
each of the 1.4V valve filaments, which
is quite acceptable.
Alignment
Now that the voltages were correct,
the set was performing quite well and
it was time to check the alignment
of the IF, RF and oscillator circuits.
First, with the shield removed from
the bottom of the chassis, I tweaked
the four IF transformer adjustments
while listening to a relatively weak
station. They were all very close to
correct alignment.
Next, with the shield plate refitted,
I checked the oscillator circuits and
the only thing I found was that the
dial pointer was slightly out of position. Once this had been corrected,
no further adjustment of the oscillator
circuit was necessary. The set was then
reassembled so that the remainder of
the alignment could be done.
I began by tuning to the lowfrequency end of the dial (around
600kHz) and adjusting L3 for best
performance. That done, I then tuned
to 2QN Deniliquin (1520kHz) and
adjusted trimmer capacitor C7, again
for best performance.
The final task was to align the loop
antenna. There is no adjustment at the
low-frequency end of the tuning range
so only trimmer capacitor C2 has to be
adjusted. However, this must be done
correctly if the set is to perform well
at the high-frequency end of the dial.
The antenna alignment is done with
the back on the set, using a screwdriver
inserted into the top lefthand access
hole. It’s then simply a matter of peaking the antenna trimmer (C2) for best
performance at the high-frequency end
of the dial (in my case, station 2QN).
siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: AWA Radiola 573MA
MADE BY AWA in the mid-1950s, the Radiola 573MA was a 5-valve mantel
set housed in a two-tone Bakelite cabinet. This one is grey and cream but
many colour combinations were available. Behind the grille is a red & black
floral motif fabric. The valve line-up was as follows: 6BE6 1st IF/mixer; 6BA6
RF amplifier; 6AV6 detector/AGC/audio amplifier; 6AQ5 audio output and
6X4 rectifier. Photo: SILICON CHIP.
Note that this adjustment is normally done with the batteries fitted
(and the back closed). That’s because
the proximity of the batteries and any
metalwork affects the capacitance
across the loop antenna and hence
its tuning.
In my case, however, I didn’t have
any suitable batteries, so the adjustment was done without them. This
didn’t really matter, since I don’t intend fitting batteries to the set.
Once all the adjustments had been
completed, the old Radiola 653P performed very well indeed.
6-90V DC-DC converter
Back in the early 1960s, I serviced
many of these sets, along with similar
sets from other manufacturers. They
were all good performers in the rural
area in which I lived.
Because 90V HT batteries are no
longer available, running these receivers as portables is now impractical
unless you have a 6-90V DC-to-DC
converter. Fortunately though, one
member of the Historical Radio Society
of Australia (HRSA), Tony Maher, has
developed such devices so that radios
like this can be used as portables.
The 653P can be awkward to service,
although access for maintenance while
the radio is inoperative is quite reasonable except around the power switch.
That said, it’s a set that performs well
and is a good unit to have in any vinSC
tage radio collection.
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies safe with these handy binders
Available Aust. only. Price: $A13.95 plus $7 p&p per
order (includes GST). Just fill in and mail the handy
order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9939 2648; or call
(02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
REAL
VALUE
AT
$13.95
PLUS
P&P
Buy five and get them postage free!
October 2008 93
Cent-a-meter
“Owl”:
watching your
energy consumption
by Stan Swan
94 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
A
long with food and water, reliable
electricity supplies are rightly
considered an essential of modern
life, even with the environmental issues
regarding power generation.
Mains electrical energy may well be a
must-have but it’s certainly not free. And
today’s switched-on consumers often face
energy “bill shock”. Electricity may be hazardous but this has always been assumed to
one’s health rather than wealth!
In spite of improving appliance efficiency
and better-insulated homes, soaring electricity
bills often are due to ignorance about just “Watt”
in their home is using the family “Joules”.
Incidentally, the Joule is the unit of energy while
Watt is the unit of power. Watts and Joules are related: Energy
= Power x time, so 1 Joule = 1 Watt x 1 second. By contrast,
1-kilowatt-hour “unit” on your electricity bill is equivalent
to 1kW for 1 hour = 1000W x 3600s = 3.6 megajoules (MJ).
Consumers’ attempts to ease electricity consumption,
both sensible (energy-efficient lamps and appliances) and
half-baked (wrapping in blankets/sitting around a candle/
cold showers), may be futile if the true culprit is a powerhogging beer fridge in the garage or the pool pump being
on for unduly long times.
Short of balancing on a chair while trying to read a dusty
switchboard meter, it’s not easy to relate high power consumption (arising perhaps from an earlier cold spell) to accounts received weeks later. Behaviour modification usually
best occurs when associated with feedback at the time – you
don’t stop a dog chasing cars by scolding it weeks later!
Fortunately a range of electrical energy monitoring devices is now available. These fall into distinct classes, either
simple plug-in units ideal for monitoring single appliances
or switchboard-installed whole-of-house models.
The Australian-designed Cent-a-meter, reviewed by
SILICON CHIP in October 2003, is the best known of the latter
type and has had justifiably wide uptake.
With a simple clamp sensor installed on the switchboard’s
insulated Active wire, it monitors the total household current. This value is transmitted (as a 433MHz data signal) to
its portable, LCD-fitted receiver nearby.
Features of the original Cent-a-meter included:
• Near-instantaneous response to total household load
changes
• Convenient un-tethered viewing of the display, perhaps
even at your bedside to reassure you that things are
turned off.
• Temperature and humidity displays.
• A wide dynamic power range.
• A convenient wireless display.
However, issues arising have included:
• Only apparent power (Volt.Amps) is being monitored,
giving deceptive readings for many standby and inductive appliances.
• No computer linking (serial or USB) is provided.
• Battery life (3 x AA alkalines) on the receiver display is
only a few months. (The sender batteries have similar
life.)
The recent release of an improved Cent-a-meter “Owl”,
now apparently sourced from the UK, addresses some of
these shortcomings, although its price has increased to
siliconchip.com.au
The complete Cent-a-meter OWL system:
wireless data unit at left, sensor almost hidden at
rear and the sometimes confusing display unit at right.
around $200. Aside from date and time, its most obvious
improved feature is the ability to store readings and thus
show accumulated energy usage and running costs over time.
Battery life is also said to be improved but my measurements (of several milliamps) indicate that only a few months
could still be expected from three alkaline AA cells. For
prolonged use a plug-in AC adapter should really be used
for the LCD.
Wireless coverage of both units (through timber-frame
NZ houses) has been found to be a good 30m, with no noticeable susceptibility to interference. Evidence of a more
sensitive (three channel) receiver in the new display may
usefully boost ranges.
What Watts?
Due to the very nature of the current transformer clamp
pickup, the new Cent-a-meter still does not respond to true
billable “Watts” power as does a normal switchboard watthour meter.
This means that the Cent-a-meter indicates higher power
consumption than will actually be the case when motor
driven appliances are being used, although the results will be
pretty close for resistive loads (arising from mainly lighting,
cooking and heating etc – by far the largest
domestic usage), so this may not be too
crucial overall.
Further deviations may well arise
from supply level variations (assumed
to be 230V although in Australia it
is typically 240V and often higher.
Hence, overall it is debatable if
A close-up of
the inductive
pick-up, designed
to clamp on to the
main Active cable
in the rear of the
switchboard.
October 2008 95
From the publishers of
SILICON CHIP
PERFORMANCE
ELECTRONICS
FOR CARS
NOT A REPRINT: More than 160 pages of
new and exciting projects never published
before – all designed to get top
performance from your car.
FASCINATING ARTICLES: 7 chapters
explaining your car – engine management,
car electronics systems, etc
ADVANCED PROJECTS: You’ll build
controllers for turbo boost, nitrous, fuel
injection and much more!
We explain the why
as well as the how to!
Available direct from the Publisher
($22.50 inc postage):
Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW 2097.
Ph (02) 9979 5644; Fax (02) 9979 6503;
email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au; or
via our website: www.siliconchip.com.au
96 Silicon Chip
showing detailed power costs would really be merited.
Setup and display
Setup of the “Owl” unit should be easy enough for those
used to modern appliance interfaces but multiple menus
(selected by the three front buttons) make setting some
options (currency units etc) rather a chore.
Somewhat annoyingly, a strange 10-segment digit has
been used for the largest LCD values and although these
are readily visible, their “bumpiness” makes for awkward
at-a-glance reading.
Several users considered the LCD itself rather “too busy”,
with the actual running costs etc difficult to spot amongst
a sea of digits and display options. Despite politician’s and
vested interest groups’ best endeavours, to most families
greenhouse gas values are usually of much less interest
than the dollars involved!
In spite of four energy tariff options provided, a further
complication arises due to the fixed line charges often
levied by many energy suppliers. Typically, these are 50c$1 daily and for light users (perhaps away on holiday or
someone particularly careful with their usage) the monthly
bill may be more due to fixed charges than energy actually consumed. Thus even with accurate settings and a
resistive load, a typical “ma and pa” Cent-a-meter user
may find they receive a bill significantly above what their
“Owl” indicates. Of course, ever-present GST will bias
this even further.
With experience the new “Owl” will provide a useful
guide to the level of one’s likely power bill and it can alert
consumers to wasteful energy consumption patterns.
Note also that the clamp connection for the Cent-ameter should only monitor the Active wired going to the
main watt-hour meter. If should not monitor the current
drawn by any off-peak hot-water service as the tariff is
markedly different, at least it is in most parts of Australia
where off-peak tariffs are much lower than the general
domestic tariff.
Having said that, the fact that the Cent-a-meter monitors
“whole-of-house” consumption, spotting the energy hog
culprits may be complicated by concurrent activity from
other appliances. For such detective work an individual
plug-in unit may be better.
Given standing non-energy charges and power factor
issues, it’s likely that the Cent-a-meter’s indicative cost
readings may only be a rough guide to the actual monthly
bill.
However, if 25% of energy consumption is indeed able
to be saved as claimed, then the purchase cost could be
covered in just a season. Maybe it could be as simple as
“persuading” a household perennial radiator hog to chip
in for their fair share of the bill. You can’t beat an investment like that.
Of course – thanks to the wireless fed display – late
night monitoring of teens watching the plasma TV in the
lounge, or messing up the kitchen, may be done from the
comfort of one’s bed – or even beside that beer fridge in
the garage!
SC
The Cent-a-Meter Owl is available online from www.
centameter.co.nz for $NZ189.95 + $19.95 P&P (~$AU172)
or from www.todae.com.au for $AU199.95 inc P&P.
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Query on bias in
Ultra-LD Mk2
The description of the bias compensation circuit for the Ultra-LD Power
Amplifier Mk.2 in the August 2008
issue states that a voltage of 70-100mV
across the 0.1W emitter resistors gives
a quiescent current of 70-100mA per
transistor. In fact the current would be
700mA-1A. This would in turn suggest that the amplifier was dissipating
around 200W at idle.
Wouldn’t the actual voltage be
7-10mV? Furthermore, in the absence
of an adjustment, how can you guarantee that the quiescent current settles at
a level that is optimum for crossover
distortion purposes?
Wouldn’t the actual bias current
be highly dependent on the characteristics of Q10 and Q11? Would a
standard Vbe multiplier arrangement
where DQ12/DQ13 and DQ14/DQ15
were wired in parallel and Q10/Q11
were at ambient temperature be a
better way to do this? Wouldn’t that
guarantee optimal thermal tracking?
(F. Z., Barrack Heights, NSW).
• The voltage across the emitter
resistors should be 7-10mV (not 70100mV). This was corrected in the
September 2008 issue.
Also in September, we included
details of how to vary the bias, if necessary, because we have found that there
can be a larger than expected variation
in the voltage drop across the internal
diodes of the transistors. This adjustment will cope with any variations in
the Vbe of the drivers as well.
We have not used a trimpot for this
adjustment – we prefer to do without
trimpots if possible and we think that,
in most cases, no adjustment will be
needed.
By the way, our circuit is not much
different in principle from the On
Semiconductor application note AND
8196/D which can be downloaded as
a pdf from the onsemi website: http://
onsemi.com
In fact, the published bias circuit
will always give much tighter compensation than a Vbe multiplier which
effectively monitors the average of the
Vbe drops (of driver and output transistors) at “arms’ length” rather the very
precise tracking made possible by the
internal diodes.
In any case, regardless of which
bias stabilisation scheme is used in a
class-B amplifier, the driver transistors should be on the same heatsink
as the output transistors because any
variation in the Vbe of the driver transistors will affect the overall quiescent
current.
Using the speed control
with shunt motors
I know the 12V-24V High Current
Motor Speed Controller (SILICON CHIP,
March & April 2008) was designed to
handle permanent-magnet DC motors.
What do you need to change or modify
in the circuit to allow the use of serieswound and shunt-wound motors? (J.
D., via email).
• No modifications are required to
the speed controller to drive a serieswound motor.
In the case of a shunt motor, you
will find it has four connections, two
for the armature and two for the field
windings. To run it, you connect
the armature winding to the speed
controller while the field winding is
connected to the full DC supply which
also feeds the speed controller. However, you would then need a 2-pole
DC contactor to switch the DC supply
to the speed controller and the shunt
field windings.
Headphone socket for
the Class-A amplifier
I would like to put a headphone
socket on the 20W Class-A Stereo
Amplifier (SILICON CHIP, May & June
2007). Where is the best place to put it,
PWM Causes Heating In Model Locomotive Motors
Does SILICON CHIP have any comment on the matter of PWM controllers causing motors to heat up during
slow speed running? I would like to
post an answer to a railway modellers’ forum in defence of PWM controllers, as these guys seem to prefer
using 2N3055s or similar (switched
by a BC158, etc) and with little else
except a 12V supply, bridge rectifier
and a potentiometer!
One “design” offered by one of the
group doesn’t even have any filter
capacitors. I doubt that such a controller would give very good slow
siliconchip.com.au
speed running? (P. C., via email).
• It is true that PWM (pulse width
modulation) will cause more heating in the motor than constant DC.
However, there would not be a significant difference between PWM
and the unsmoothed DC from basic
train controllers. Even so, the heating involved is still less than would
occur if the motor was being used at
high-speed settings. Any basic train
controller using pure or unsmoothed
DC will give very inferior low speed
operation compared to our PWM
designs.
Another point is that DCC (Digital
Command Control) systems automatically feed PWM to the locomotive motors so any currently available
locomotive which is sold with an inbuilt DCC decoder or as “DCC-ready”
will have no problems.
However, PWM should not be
used with coreless motors as made
by Portescap. They should only be
used with smooth DC controllers
but again, unless the track and
loco pickups are kept scrupulously
clean, low speed operation will tend
to be poor.
October 2008 97
Trouble With The Subwoofer Controller
I purchased a Subwoofer Controller kit (SILICON CHIP, August 2007)
from Jaycar and after correcting a diode which I fitted around the wrong
way the kit fired up and was exactly
what I had been looking for. I run
two subwoofers using two separate
amplifiers, with the signal split by
a single male to twin female RCA
fitting, at the back of the surround
amplifier.
I use one direct from the surround
amplifier and one through the sub
controller to boost the very lowest
frequencies. The surround amplifier
has no low-pass filter for the sub, so
it booms instead of thumping.
Everything has been running fine,
except that the power controller for
the amplifiers has never worked; the
power to the amplifiers is on all the
time, regardless of whether there is
a signal or not and even if I disconnect the power to the controller,
the circuit still allows power to the
amplifiers. I have replaced all the
ICs to no avail.
I can live with this problem but
now things have got worse. The
controller processes the signal coming in, the level control knob works
fine but there is no real volume coming through. For a while it seemed
to take a while, then suddenly it
would go but now there is no real
signal at all.
With the amplifier turned right up,
there is only the faintest noise coming out of the subwoofer. I switched
before the speaker protector or after? I
know I may have some hum problems
but I like headphones. It’s a pity you
did not factor this into the design as
many people may desire this. (F. B.,
via email).
• If you want a headphone connector
it would probably be best to connect it
after the Loudspeaker Protector. Use a
270W 1W resistor in series with each
side of headphones.
However, there are two reasons why
we did not do it. First, the extra wiring
does present a problem in attempting
to keep buzz from the transformer out
of the audio. Second, it does seem
quite wasteful to run an amplifier consuming over 100W to drive a couple
98 Silicon Chip
amplifiers and subwoofer to no avail;
the problem remains the same.
I had a friend who is a retired
technician check it out but he could
not get a grasp of it all. Jaycar had a
look but could only suggest replacing all the ICs, which I did. The thing
is still not putting any real power
out. Can you help me please? (S. G.,
via email).
• Well, it isn’t working now and it
probably wasn’t working in the first
place. The first point is that if the
controller supplies power to the amplifier even when its own power is
off, either the SSR (solid state relay)
is faulty or there is a short across it
in the wiring on the PC board.
As far as the rest of the circuit is
concerned, the only way you can
find the fault is to trace the signal
right through the circuit. In general,
replacing all the ICs in a project in
an attempt to find a fault is usually
fruitless and you never have the
satisfaction of finding out what the
fault really was, if you do happen
to succeed in fixing the problem in
this way.
The way to proceed is as follows:
connect an audio signal to the input
and then use a small amplifier and
connect its input to the output of
every op amp in the signal chain.
This should give you a clue as to
where the problem lies.
Our bet is that it is a poor or
missed solder joint on the PC board.
It’s rare for new ICs to be faulty.
of flea-power headphones.
As an alternative, you could build
the Deluxe Headphone Adaptor
described in the April 2008 issue of
SILICON CHIP or the much-simplified
version published in the Circuit Notebook pages of the June 2008 issue.
PC-Controlled
Burglar Alarm
I’ve built the PC-Controlled Burglar
Alarm (SILICON CHIP, February & March
2006). All the testing checks out until
you get to the point you have to connect a sensor. The only sensors I have
at the moment are reed switches. These
don’t have a tamper circuit and obvi-
ously don’t have power – just the alarm
loop, ie, a wire in and out to form an
in-series loop for a given zone.
I saw a response to a question on
this a while back. The magazine stated
that most sensors had four connectors – two for power and two others
providing NC or NO. The response
suggested you just needed to connect
one of the NC or NO connectors to the
appropriate zone, ie, one lead to one
zone connector for any sensor that
didn’t have power.
I can’t see how this can work because there is no earth connector for
a voltage signal and there is no way of
the alarm board checking continuity
(which is how reed switches work). I
tried connecting one connection to a
GND for the sensor’s terminal and the
other to a zone but no joy. What should
I do? (P. G., Hook, UK).
• The zone inputs from 1-8 on the PCControlled Burglar Alarm are normally
pulled to +5V via 100kW resistors. A
zone input is pulled to ground when
its input is connected to the GND
terminal.
A reed switch can be connected between a zone input and ground to form
this connection to ground when the
contact is closed. Some reed switches
do provide both NO (normally open)
and NC (normally closed) contacts and
a common. The zone input connects,
for example, to the common and the
NO or NC contact connects to the
GND. When using more than one reed
switch per zone, the switches are connected in series when you use the NC
contacts and in parallel when using
the NO contacts.
Power is only required for sensors that require it, such as infrared
movement detectors. The NO, NC
and common connections connect
in the same way as reed switches as
described above – ie, to the zone and
GND terminals on the alarm.
The PC-Controlled Burglar Alarm
needs to be set up for the sensors used
before the system will work correctly.
This is described on page 33 of the
March 2006 issue.
High-quality power
supply wanted
I need to build a high-quality regulated power supply (not switchmode)
to power a mixer. I require 36V at
around 2.5A.
Do you know of such a circuit that
siliconchip.com.au
Incompatibility Between Smart Charger & Digital Inverter Generator
I have a problem of compatibility
between a smart battery charger and
a portable digital inverter generator
that is proving very frustrating.
We have a trailer/sailer yacht on
which we go for extended cruises
of four weeks or so in isolated areas
away from shore power. In order to
provide sufficient power to keep the
fridge, etc, operational we have two
120Ah deep-cycle batteries on board
which are sufficient for about four
days without the need to recharge.
As we prefer to sail rather than
motor, which is the present method
for charging, we decided to invest in
a portable generator and a 30A smart
charger. This means we need to run
the generator for approx four hours
per week to satisfy our needs. This
is now common practice with our
fellow trailer/sailer friends.
As a result, I recently purchased
a YK2000i true sinewave digital inverter generator from a dealer in Melbourne and an iFonix iB-1230 smart
charger from a dealer in Brisbane.
The smart charger works perfectly
on mains power and the generator
also handles various power tools
with no problem but when I connect
the charger to the generator, the latter
immediately drops out, showing an
overload indication on the panel.
This happens without the charger
even being connected to a battery!
I have tried connecting the charger
to a different inverter type generator brand, eg, a Honda20i, with no
problems. Therefore, it would appear that the YK generator is either
unsuitable or faulty.
While connected to the mains
supply, I measured the charger’s
AC current draw with a clamp-type
ammeter. The measurement when
switched on without connection to
a battery was too small to register
on that particular ammeter, while
the draw when connected to a
perhaps may be part of an amplifier
design in SILICON CHIP or any other
source? (K. C., via email).
• We have not produced a 36V 2.5A
power supply that specifically suits
your needs. A supply could be made
using a 30VAC 100VA transformer
siliconchip.com.au
partly-charged battery showed 2A.
Therefore, no significant inrush current was detected. No checks were
carried out using an oscilloscope,
however.
I have been in touch with both
suppliers regarding the problem.
The smart charger supplier was very
helpful and placed me in contact
with the manufacturers in Hong
Kong. They were unable to advise
what the cause of the incompatibility was likely to be but suggested that
I start the generator with the charger
already plugged in to see whether
that helped. When this is done, the
generator does not immediately drop
out but does so after a few seconds.
I know that a particular inverter we
use on the boat (12V DC-to-240V
AC) needs to be switched on and off
at times to get it to work properly.
This fact is, however, mentioned in
the operations manual.
The generator supplier unfortunately has only mechanical expertise and understands nothing about
electronics. He could only offer to
send my query to China to see what
they suggested. However, I am not
that optimistic about receiving an
adequate reply or a solution. He
does not possess a wiring diagram
or modus operandi of the inverter
protection monitoring so as to assist
others with their troubleshooting.
I have not been able to find a
similar generator unit locally to
check whether it displays the same
problem with the charger.
Here in Port Macquarie we have
limited access to anyone with an
electronic capability and I have had
no luck to date in finding anyone
who even vaguely has any meaningful explanation. As a result, I am
approaching you in the hope that
you can assist me to ascertain what
the problem may be or to suggest
someone that may be able to help.
driving a bridge rectifier and filtered by
three 4700mF 50V electrolytic capacitors. You could then use a variation of
the Low Voltage Adjustable Regulator
described in the May 2008 issue to
regulate to 36V.
Note that all capacitors would need
(M. A., Port Macquarie, NSW).
• Apparently, this problem of in
compatibility between cheap generators and switchmode chargers is
fairly common and difficult to solve.
It is likely that the smart charger is
taking power from the inverter in
large gulps, ie, in pulse mode. An
oscilloscope would be needed to
confirm this.
Without knowing the details of
the circuit of the inverter/generator
or charger, it is not possible to suggest a modification to the charger to
reduce its pulse draw (if that’s what
is actually happening). However, it
may be possible to get the units to
work together if you put a suitable
limiting resistor in the output of
the inverter/generator to enable it
to work with the charger.
For example, if the inverter/generator is rated for 2000 watts, we
know it can supply at least 8A and
probably more if it works OK with
power tools. Therefore, we would
be inclined to try the effect of a 10ohm 10W wirewound resistor in
series with the charger input. Such
a resistor may get quite hot but if it
works you will be some way towards
a solution.
Note that this resistor will float
at the 240VAC potential of the inverter and should be installed so as
to avoid a shock hazard, eg, inside
the charger case.
We think the fault probably lies
with the generator rather than the
charger because the Honda generator
worked OK. Possibly, you might be
able to trade up to a Honda.
In general, we would advise prospective purchasers to buy a generator and smart charger from the same
supplier (in the same city!), with
the stipulation that both units must
work together. Otherwise the two
suppliers are likely to blame each
other’s piece of equipment.
to be rated at 50V and the LM317
regulator should be an LM317HV
type to cope with the higher input
voltage. A 1N4004 diode should be
placed between the output and input
of the regulator (anode to output) and
another 1N4004 diode between the
October 2008 99
Incompatibility Between TV & Set-Top Box
I recently purchased an inexpensive 68cm CRT TV (Rank Arena ex
Target) which has RCA inputs at
the rear of the set marked Y, C, & Cr
which are selected as YUV-IN on
the remote. I purchased a Tevion
TEV8200 set-top box and used the
Green Blue Red (Y Pb Pr) connectors.
But cycling the various Component
Video resolutions selected on the
remote, I can only produce a full
colour scrambled picture, in numerous unstable columns.
I can use the TV AV inputs but I
assume these will be of lower definition than one using the YUV-in.
Internet information about the Y, Pb
& Pr and Y, Cb & Cr signals suggests
that “Y/Pb/Pr is used for analog
applications while Y/Cb/Cr is used
for digital applications. For Y/Pb/
Pr, all three components have the
same voltage spread of about 714
millivolts RMS (or about 1.0 volts
peak-to-peak) including the black
pedestal (for NTSC broadcasts black
adjust and output terminals (anode
to adjust).
The resistance between the adjust
and ground for 36V would be 3.3kW
1W. A large heatsink would be required
if 2.5A was drawn continuously.
Ceramic filters for
Jupiter receiver
I am having a problem with the
acquisition of two Murata 5.5MHz
ceramic filters for the Planet Jupiter
Receiver (SILICON CHIP, August 2008).
I now learn that this description is er-
is slightly above zero) but not counting the negative going sync pulse.”
“For Y/Cb/Cr in an 8 bit system,
the Y typically has a digital value
spread from 16 to 235 which is slightly less than for Cb and Cr which each
have a digital spread from 16 to 240.
Component video comes in different
non-interchangeable formats (scan
rate formats) for regular TV or HDTV,
for example: Interlaced or 480i from
a standard NTSC DVD player, 480p
from a progressive scan NTSC DVD
player, 1080i or 720p HDTV. Also in
PAL formats.”
“Unfortunately there is a hodgepodge of standards for the exact
definitions of Y, Pb and Pr. Picture
quality loss occurs if a different
formula is used to recreate RGB at
the receiving end compared with
what was used during video source
production.”
A friend who has recently purchased a CRT TV (Audiosonic ex
Kmart), which has an unused Y/Cb/
roneous as they are properly described
as “ceramic resonators! Looking for
“ceramic filters” resulted in a lot of
useless internet searching. I can only
find a possibility of acquiring 100 or
so of the correct units from the manufacturer.
I would appreciate it if you can
nominate a source of two only of the
units anywhere worldwide. I have had
no luck so far. (F. A., via email).
• As far as we are aware, Murata
themselves refer to the said devices as
filters rather than as resonators. Having
said that, there does not appear to be
Cr input, is also thinking of purchasing a HD set-top box. I have looked
through the back issues of SILICON
CHIP in the hopes of finding a Y/
Pb/Pr to Y/Cb/Cr converter, without
success.
Any help will be appreciated. (T.
F., Chinderah, NSW).
• One of our staff members also has
a Tevion TEV8200 set-top box and
he uses its component video outputs
to drive a Panasonic LCD projector,
without problems. Provided your
TV is set to PAL and the set-top box
is set to minimum resolution, you
should not have problems.
Make sure your TV set is not set
to NTSC; it must be set to PAL. You
might also try the STB with your
friend’s TV set, to determine if there
is a problem with the STB itself.
By the way, in a typical low-cost
TV set, there will not be much difference in picture quality between
normal A/V (ie, composite video)
and component video.
any outlet where you could easily buy
just two filters.
However, it seems possible that you
could use a 3-pin resonator instead
of a filter in this application, since
the receiver is not critical as far as IF
bandwidth concerned. We note that
Futurlec can supply 6MHz 3-pin ceramic resonators and we think these
could be made to work in the circuit
with no mods required – see http://
www.futurlec.com/ICCrystalsResonators.shtml
We should note that Altronics has a
kit for this project, Cat K-1127.
SC
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims
any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any
issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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continued page 103
October 2008 101
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102 Silicon Chip
Silicon Chip
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Quest Electronics® Pty Limited abn 83 003 501 282 t/a Questronix
Products, Specials & Pricelist at www.questronix.com.au
phonePM
(02) 4343
1970
1:10
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email: questav<at>questronix.com.au
fax (02) 43413/5/06
2795
SPK360
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea?
If so, sketch it out, write a brief
description of its operation &
send it to us.
Provided your idea is workable &
original, we’ll publish it in Circuit
Notebook & you’ll make some
money. We pay up to $100 for a
good circuit idea or you could
win some test gear.
Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
20 years experience!
HI-FISPEAKER REPAIRS
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Specialising in UK, US and Danish brands.
Speakerbits are your vintage, rare and collectable speaker
repair experts. Foam surrounds, voice coils, complete
recone kits and more. Original OEM parts for Scan-Speak,
Dynaudio, Tannoy, JBL, ElectroVoice and others!
SPK360
Do you have wireless problems?
Telelink has wireless solutions!
MD12 Media Distribution Amplifier
tel: 03 9647 7000 www.speakerbits.com
siliconchip.com.au
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 50 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
RFMA
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
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benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
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PO Box 107, Rydalmere, NSW 2116
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Advertising Index
Altronics..................................... 78-81
Amateur Scientist CDs.................OBC
Av-Comm...................................... 102
CJ Appliance................................. 101
Cleverscope.................................... 13
Computronics................................ 102
Dick Smith Electronics............... 28-29
Ecowatch...................................... 101
Emona Instruments........................... 8
Front Panel Express.......................... 6
RF Modules Australia
Low Power Wireless Connectivity Specialists
Applications: Parani-SD100
Laptop/PDA
Bluetooth Serial Adapter
OEM Bluetooth Module
comms,
control In Stock NOW!
In Stock NOW!
AT Interface & measurement. Range 100m to 1Km
Rural
No drivers
Power: +18dBm
Class 1
Industrial
Range of upto 1Km
Data rate: upto 115200bps
Bluetooth Spec: V2.0+EDR
Commercial
SENA: OEM Bluetooth Modules and Serial Adapters
Parani-ESD1000
RF Modules Australia. P.O. Box 1957 Launceston, TAS., 7250.
Ph: 03-6331-6789. Email: sales<at>rfmodules.com.au. Web: rfmodules.com.au
Grantronics................................... 102
Harbuch Electronics........................ 83
Instant PCBs................................. 103
Jaycar............................IFC,49-56,103
JED Microprocessors........................ 5
Keith Rippon................................. 103
LED Sales..................................... 103
MicroZed Computers........................ 9
Ocean Controls............................... 65
Ozitronics........................................ 83
Premier Batteries.......................... 102
Quest Electronics.......................... 102
RCS Radio.................................... 101
Battery Packs & Chargers
RF Modules................................... 103
RF Power........................................ 47
Rockby Electronics....................... 102
Rohde & Schwarz............................. 7
Sesame Electronics...................... 103
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
Silicon Chip Binders................... 27,42
www.iinet.net.au/~worcom
WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
PO Box 631, Hillarys, WA 6923
Ph: (08) 9307 7305 Fax: (08) 9307 7309
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
LEDs! NICHIA SUPERBRIGHT LEDs,
Cree XR-E and 5mm LEDs, Avago
(HP) LEDs, many other standard and
superbright brand name LEDs. Plus,
see our new range of nixie clocks! www.
ledsales.com.au
TECH REPAIRS SERVICE MANUALS
www.techrepairs.org
Thousands of downloadable service
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip Bookshop.......87,104,IFC
SC Perf. Electronics For Cars......... 64
Siomar Battery Engineering
www.batterybook.com
Phone (08) 9302 5444
manuals for all brands, makes and
models including PDP, LCD, VCR,
DVD, CTV, Vintage Radio, Laptops,
Monitors, Sewing Machines, Washing
Machines, Dryers, Fridges and many
more. An absolute must have website
for any Tech!
KIT ASSEMBLY
KEITH RIPPON KIT ASSEMBLY &
REPAIR:
* Australia & New Zealand;
* Small production runs.
Phone Keith 0409 662 794.
keith.rippon<at>gmail.com
Silicon Chip Subscriptions.............. 43
Siomar Battery Industries............. 103
Soundlabs Group.............................. 3
Speakerbits................................... 102
Splat Controls............................... 102
Tech Repairs................................. 103
Tekmark Australia............................. 6
Telelink.......................................... 102
Truscotts Electronic World............. 101
Wagner Electronics......................... 45
Worldwide Elect. Components...... 103
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON CHIP
designs can be obtained from RCS
Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738 0330.
Fax (02) 9738 0334.
October 2008 103
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
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SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
See
Review
March
2010
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
PAYPAL (24/7)
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To
ilicon Chip Use your PayPal account
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Call (02) 9939 3295 with
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Place104 S
com.au/Shop/Books silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Collaroy NSW 2097
with order & credit card details
with order & credit card details (02) 9939 2648 with all details
Your
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
Order:
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
See
Review
March
2010
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
PAYPAL (24/7)
INTERNET (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
eMAIL (24/7)
FAX (24/7)
To
siliconchip.com.au
October
2008 105
Use your PayPal account
www.siliconchip.
Call (02)
9939 3295 with
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Place
com.au/Shop/Books silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Collaroy NSW 2097
with order & credit card details
with order & credit card details (02) 9939 2648 with all details
Your
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
Order:
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
|