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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The AWA Radiola 653P
AC/Battery Portable
The Heyday Of Valve Portables
First released in 1954, the AWA Radiola
653P was a 6-valve portable receiver that
could operate from both batteries and
mains power. It’s a good performer that’s
easy to restore and get going.
C
OMMERCIALLY-manufactured
portable valve radios first appeared around 1925 with the introduction of sets like the RCA26 6-valve
receiver (see SILICON CHIP, August
2008). However, sets of the RCA26’s
calibre were well before their time and
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weren’t particularly common.
In fact, early portables varied greatly both in terms of quality and performance. From 1925 onwards, a few
manufacturers dabbled in making
“portables” using 2V valves and vibrator power supplies but serious pro-
duction of Australian-made portables
didn’t occur until 1939. That’s because
commercially-viable portables had to
wait until the introduction of the octal
1.4V battery valves that required only
90V of high-tension (HT) supply.
From that time onwards portables
became more popular, although World
War II slowed their introduction
considerably. The octal 1.4V valves
were subsequently commonly used
up until around 1950, sometimes in
combination with the much later 7-pin
miniature types. After that, the 1.4V
7-pin miniatures were used almost
exclusively.
The 1950s saw the development of
good-performing 5-valve and 6-valve
battery-portable receivers. These sets
usually used a No.745 1.4V battery for
the filaments and two No.482 45V batteries in series to give a 90V HT supply.
This combination gave a battery life of
around 300 hours.
Mains/battery portables
Because they could so easily be
taken from room to room, many people
also wanted to use portable sets in the
home. As a result, the manufacturers
developed portables that could be
powered both from the mains and
from batteries. This meant that the
set could be run economically from
the mains around the house, with the
expensive batteries reserved for truly
portable applications when no mains
power was available.
In many cases, the batteries used
in these sets were smaller than those
used in the battery-only portables and
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This is the view inside the Radiola 653P 6-valve portable. Note that the chassis
is mounted upside down, with the valves secured in place using valve clips. The
batteries are normally stored in the space at bottom left.
therefore had a shorter life. The AWA
653P AC/battery receiver described
here was one such set.
To get around this problem, some
manufacturers at that time experimented with “reactivation”. This
involved recharging the batteries from
the mains (to a certain extent) to prolong their useful life.
Unfortunately, I’ve been unable to
find any literature that indicates just
how successful reactivation really
was. I suspect that, used correctly, it
may have extended battery life by up
to four times.
Because reactivation was being used
to recharge primary cells, set owners
would have needed to watch out for
leaking batteries. This could typically
occur if the recharging process was not
uniform in a cell, thereby causing some
locations in a cell to be “eaten through”
over a period of use and leak corrosive
chemicals. In fact, the remaining HT
battery from my set looks as though it
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has suffered from this problem.
The manufacture of valve portables
(with or without reactivation) quickly
ceased with the advent of transistor
portables. The latter had many advantages: they were more compact,
weighed less, consumed considerably
less power and were much less expensive to run. The batteries in transistor
sets not only lasted longer but also
cost a fraction of those used in valve
portables.
AWA 653P 5/6-valve portable
The AWA Radiola 653P first went
on sale in 1954, a time that was right
in the middle of the heyday of good
valve portables. It can be powered from
either mains AC or dry batteries and
also includes provision for recharging
the dry batteries.
This set was housed the same plastic
cabinet used for the battery-only version and measures 330 x 249 x 150mm
(W x H x D), including the knobs and
handle. As shown in the photos, the
cabinet of my set is maroon and cream
and features a slide-rule dial-scale at
the top of the front panel. It weighs
4.7kg without batteries and just under
6kg with batteries.
At the top of the set is a carrying
handle which is made of hard rubber.
This handle drops down onto the top
of the cabinet when not in use. The
control knobs were mounted at the
ends of the cabinet.
All in all, it’s quite attractive in
appearance but like other portables,
it wasn’t cheap. This set sold for 30
pounds and nine shillings in 1955,
an amount that represented several
weeks’ wages for the average person.
Inside the set
Turning two screws at the back
through 90° and then laying the back
down gives access to the inside of the
set and to the batteries and AC power
lead. As can be seen in the photos, the
chassis is mounted upside down at the
top of the cabinet, with the AC power
supply at the right. The valves are all
October 2008 89
This under-chassis view shows the unit prior to restoration. All but one of the large black paper capacitors were replaced
with polyester types. The original power cord was secured using a knot, which is now illegal.
This view shows the chassis after the paper capacitors had been replaced. An
electrolytic filter capacitor was also replaced, along with two charred resistors.
held in position by clips, so that they
don’t fall out.
The six-inch speaker is in the centre of the cabinet against the front,
while the two batteries sit on the
bottom lefthand side of the case and
are held in place by brackets. The AC
power cord is stored in the space to
their right, beneath the power supply
transformer.
As in other valve portables of the
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era, this set employed a flat loop antenna. This is glued and held in place
on the inside back panel of the set
using clamps.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details of the AWA Radiola 653P.
As shown, the tuned loop antenna
(L1) is connected to a radio frequency
(RF) amplifier stage based on a 1T4
valve (V1). Its output is then applied
to tuned RF transformer L2/L3 and fed
to a 1R5 converter valve (V2).
Following V2, the signal is fed via
455kHz IF transformer L6 & L7 to IF
amplifier stage V3 (1T4). This IF amplifier stage is neutralised via C17 in
a bridge circuit. The amplified signal
is then applied to a second IF transformer (L8 & L9) and from there to the
detector/AGC diode in V4 (1S5). The
detected audio is then fed via volume
control R10 to a 1S5 pentode, amplified and fed to a 3V4 output stage.
Note that when AGC/AVC is applied
to series-connected filament valves,
care must be taken to ensure that
the AGC not only works but that the
bias requirements for each valve are
met. As a result, I noted the voltage
at the positive filament terminal of
each valve so that the bias could be
determined (note: the filaments are
connected in series).
In this set, 9V is applied to V5, then
6V to V1, 4.5V to V2, 3.0V to V4 and
finally 1.5V to V3 (note: V5 is a dualfilament valve). The AGC output from
V4 is applied to V1 and V2 only.
A voltage divider network from the
+6V rail consisting of resistors R1, R2
& R5 operates with the AGC bias (at
the diode output of V4) to provide
effective AGC to the two controlled
stages (ie, V1 & V2). However, V3 has
no bias applied to it all and runs at full
output at all times.
By contrast, the 3V4 (V5) derives its
bias from the +1.5V at V3’s positive
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filament. This, together with the +6V
at the 3V4’s negative filament terminal,
gives a bias of around -4.5V.
The power supply is more complicated than usual. That’s because,
as previously stated, the set can run
from either mains or battery power.
In addition, the supply is capable of
providing charging current for the
battery reactivation process.
The power switch has five positions labelled Full, Save, Off, AC and
Reactivate. In the “Full” position, the
9V and 90V batteries are connected
to the set.
When switched to “Save”, a 1.8kW
resistor is connected in series with the
90V battery to conserve power while
in the “Off” position, both the batteries
and the AC mains are disconnected.
In the “AC” position, mains power
is switched to the transformer which
then feeds a 6X4 rectifier (V6). Approximately 120V DC is produced at
the output of the rectifier and this is
dropped to 9V by resistors R12 and
R13 which are switched in series with
the filaments and to 90V by R14 for the
HT supply. Capacitors C28, C29a and
C29b do the filtering.
Note that because the rectifier is
only a half-wave type, the filter capacitor values are considerably higher
than for a full-wave system. This
is necessary to ensure well-filtered
supplies for the filaments and plates
of the valves.
Note also that the AC power supply
circuit layout is rather unusual in that
the plates of the 6X4 valve are wired
to chassis while the cathode is connected to the relevant secondary of the
power transformer. This is opposite to
method used to wire power supplies
in normal AC receivers. It’s done so
that in the “Reactivate” mode, the 9V
and 90V batteries are not connected
to each other via a resistor string if
the power is switched off at the mains
instead of at the set.
Finally, when the power switch is
in the “Reactivate” position, the two
anodes of the 6X4 are separated so that
the charging circuit for each battery is
entirely separate. In this case, one still
goes to chassis but the other is now
connected to the negative terminal of
the 9V battery.
Dismantling the receiver
Dismantling this set for service is
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Fig.1: the circuit is a 6-valve superhet with power derived either from the
240V AC mains or from a 90V HT battery and 9V filament battery.
Power supply circuit
straightforward. First, the three knobs
are pulled off their control shafts
although this was slightly difficult
on this set because there was some
paste or grease on the shafts that had
partially solidified.
Next, with the back of the set open,
I pulled the 90V battery out (it was
the only one fitted) and disconnected
it. Unfortunately, the battery plug
had corroded due to battery leakage
and broke but I had some spares on
hand.
The antenna plug and the speaker
October 2008 91
The flat loop antenna has its turns glued together and is clamped to the inside
back of the cabinet. The attached note shows the valve locations and details
how the batteries and power cord are stored.
plug were also removed and the earth
wire from the chassis to the earth
terminal was desoldered. The covers
over the handle mounting screws were
then removed, followed by the two
screws hidden under the two higher
knobs. This gave me access to the
chassis retaining screws which were
also removed.
That done, the chassis was lifted out
of the cabinet, ready for restoration.
Once the chassis was out, the cabinet was dusted out and washed using
soapy water and a sponge. The knobs
were then given the same treatment,
with any remaining gunk on the knobs
and on the control shafts removed using kerosene.
Although the cabinet looked clean
after this treatment, its surfaces were
quite pitted due to a rather hard life.
As a result, I attacked it using some
automotive cut and polish cream
and most of the marks disappeared.
Some, however, were just too deep
to be removed and so although the
cabinet now looks quite reasonable,
it’s certainly not in pristine condition.
The chassis was cleaned using a
kerosene-soaked kitchen scourer and
the small amount of gunk that was
on it came off quite easily. In fact, it
came up quite well, with just slight
discolouration in a few spots.
Restoring the circuit
In order to access the parts under the
92 Silicon Chip
chassis, it’s first necessary to remove a
metal shield that’s attached to the bottom. This is easily done by removing
five self-tapping screws.
With the shield removed, inspection
of the under chassis components revealed that virtually nothing had been
done to the receiver during its life. At
this point, it was time to make a few
basic checks before I risked applying
power to the receiver.
First, with the set turned off and
disconnected from both AC power and
the batteries, I checked the filament
line for continuity. In practice, this
involved checking between pin 7 of
the 3V4 and chassis and I measured
around 80W, which is the cold resistance of the filaments in the series
valve string.
This was a good start but I did notice
that two 3W resistors, R12 and R13,
had been charred and blackened due
to overheating. That wasn’t so good,
although both resistors still measured
correctly.
Next, I endeavoured to test all the
electrolytic capacitors even though my
capacitance tester only covers values
up to 40mF. These checks revealed that
C28 was down to just 0.18mF, which
meant that it was virtually open circuit. It was replaced with a 500mF 25V
electrolytic.
The remaining electrolytics were
all close to their correct values and so
were left in circuit.
The paper capacitors were the
next suspects, as most prove to have
excessive leakage resistance. In highimpedance circuits, this alters the
operating conditions of the valves and
causes lots of problems. Replacement
polyester or similar capacitors are
cheap but for the sake of authenticity,
I only replace those capacitors with
excessive leakage.
If, for example, a paper capacitor
is wired across a cathode resistor, I
would not replace the capacitor, as
even a capacitor with high leakage
would not noticeably alter the operating conditions of the valve.
The resistors were also checked and
these were all within their tolerance
range of 20%. However, I did subsequently find it necessary to add an
18kW resistor in parallel with R12 to
obtain the correct voltage on the filament line, even though the resistors in
this line were within tolerance.
Sets of this era came fitted with
2-core (figure-8) power lead, so the
chassis wasn’t earthed. A figure-8
lead was also necessary in this set so
that it could be “folded” up and fitted
inside the case when the set was used
as a portable.
In my case though, I wasn’t going
to use the set as a portable, so this
didn’t matter. As a result, I decided
to earth the chassis in the interests of
safety. This meant that I had to slightly
enlarge the cable exit point in order
to accommodate a 3-core cable. This
cable was securely anchored using a
cable clamp.
Testing & troubleshooting
At this stage, everything looked
in order. Apart from the component
changes, I had checked that there
were no shorts on the HT line and had
double-checked the filament supply
line to ensure that no more than 9V
would be applied to the valve filament string.
It was time for the smoke test. I
plugged the mains power cord into
the wall socket, turned the set on and
after about 30 seconds, the receiver
burst into life. It didn’t exactly blast
me out of the workshop but at least it
was going.
Next, I checked the voltages applied
to the valves. The HT line measured
85V and there was only about 6.8V going to the filament line. I then checked
the voltage across filter capacitor C29A
and it measured around 105V but
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should have been 120V.
So both the HT and filament voltages
were low, which explained why the
output of the set was so low. But what
was causing the problem?
I checked the voltage across the
transformer’s secondary winding and
found it to be 130V. This is correct so
I tried replacing the 6X4 rectifier and
the voltage rose to around 89V on the
HT line and to about 7.5V on the filament line.
The HT voltage was now correct but
the filament voltage needed increasing
slightly. As a result, I tried connecting
different value resistors across resistor
R12 and finally settled on a value of
18kW, which brought the voltage up
to 8V. This gave just over 1.3V across
each of the 1.4V valve filaments, which
is quite acceptable.
Alignment
Now that the voltages were correct,
the set was performing quite well and
it was time to check the alignment
of the IF, RF and oscillator circuits.
First, with the shield removed from
the bottom of the chassis, I tweaked
the four IF transformer adjustments
while listening to a relatively weak
station. They were all very close to
correct alignment.
Next, with the shield plate refitted,
I checked the oscillator circuits and
the only thing I found was that the
dial pointer was slightly out of position. Once this had been corrected,
no further adjustment of the oscillator
circuit was necessary. The set was then
reassembled so that the remainder of
the alignment could be done.
I began by tuning to the lowfrequency end of the dial (around
600kHz) and adjusting L3 for best
performance. That done, I then tuned
to 2QN Deniliquin (1520kHz) and
adjusted trimmer capacitor C7, again
for best performance.
The final task was to align the loop
antenna. There is no adjustment at the
low-frequency end of the tuning range
so only trimmer capacitor C2 has to be
adjusted. However, this must be done
correctly if the set is to perform well
at the high-frequency end of the dial.
The antenna alignment is done with
the back on the set, using a screwdriver
inserted into the top lefthand access
hole. It’s then simply a matter of peaking the antenna trimmer (C2) for best
performance at the high-frequency end
of the dial (in my case, station 2QN).
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Photo Gallery: AWA Radiola 573MA
MADE BY AWA in the mid-1950s, the Radiola 573MA was a 5-valve mantel
set housed in a two-tone Bakelite cabinet. This one is grey and cream but
many colour combinations were available. Behind the grille is a red & black
floral motif fabric. The valve line-up was as follows: 6BE6 1st IF/mixer; 6BA6
RF amplifier; 6AV6 detector/AGC/audio amplifier; 6AQ5 audio output and
6X4 rectifier. Photo: SILICON CHIP.
Note that this adjustment is normally done with the batteries fitted
(and the back closed). That’s because
the proximity of the batteries and any
metalwork affects the capacitance
across the loop antenna and hence
its tuning.
In my case, however, I didn’t have
any suitable batteries, so the adjustment was done without them. This
didn’t really matter, since I don’t intend fitting batteries to the set.
Once all the adjustments had been
completed, the old Radiola 653P performed very well indeed.
6-90V DC-DC converter
Back in the early 1960s, I serviced
many of these sets, along with similar
sets from other manufacturers. They
were all good performers in the rural
area in which I lived.
Because 90V HT batteries are no
longer available, running these receivers as portables is now impractical
unless you have a 6-90V DC-to-DC
converter. Fortunately though, one
member of the Historical Radio Society
of Australia (HRSA), Tony Maher, has
developed such devices so that radios
like this can be used as portables.
The 653P can be awkward to service,
although access for maintenance while
the radio is inoperative is quite reasonable except around the power switch.
That said, it’s a set that performs well
and is a good unit to have in any vinSC
tage radio collection.
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