This is only a preview of the April 2009 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 33 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Multi-Function Remote-Controlled Lamp Dimmer":
Items relevant to "USB Printer Share Switch":
Articles in this series:
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
Share a USB printer or other USB device between two PCs
Manual 2-Way
USB Device Switch
This simple device allows two computers to share a single USB
printer or some other USB device, such as an external flash
drive, memory card reader or scanner. A rotary switch selects
the PC that you wish to use with the USB device, while two LEDs
indicate the selected PC.
By JIM ROWE & GREG SWAIN
T
HE MOST COMMON way to share
a USB printer between two PCs is
to use one machine as a print server.
However, that’s not always convenient because it means that the server
PC must always be on if you want to
print something.
That can be a real nuisance if you
just want to quickly fire up the other
machine and print something out.
It also means that the two PCs must
be networked together, either via a
hub/router or directly via an ethernet
crossover cable.
Another way is to use a dedicated
USB print server. However, as before,
this must be connected to an ethernet
42 Silicon Chip
network, along with the PCs. Such
devices also need their own power
supply, generally cost well over $100
and are overkill if you just want to
share a single USB printer between
two computers for occasional printing
in a home set-up.
That’s where this simple device
comes in. It’s basically a 2-way switch
box that lets you manually switch
your USB printer from one PC to the
other, as required. The switching is
performed using a rotary switch, while
two LEDs on the front panel indicate
which PC has been connected to the
printer.
This method has several advantages.
First, you don’t need to network your
two computers. Second, you can
print from either machine with the
other turned off. And third, the device
doesn’t need a power supply.
It’s also cheap to build and easy to
set up – just run standard USB Type
A to Type B cables from your PCs to
the USB Switch and connect a third
cable from the switch to the printer.
That’s it.
Other devices
This device is not simply confined
to switching a USB printer – it can also
be used to switch other USB devices,
such as USB flash drives, memory
siliconchip.com.au
FROM
PC1
(1)
1
S1a
2
3
4
V+
(2)
CON1
USB TYPE B
SOCKET
S1b
TO
PRINTER
D–
1
2
FROM
PC2
3
S1c
1
4
D+
CON3
USB TYPE A
SOCKET
2
3
4
A
CON2
USB TYPE B
SOCKET
A
LED1
K
S1d
470
K
LED2
GND
SC
2009
card readers, USB digital picture
frames and scanners. However, if you
are switching a USB flash drive, you
must always be sure to go through the
“Safely Remove Hardware” procedure
before switching over, otherwise you
could lose data.
Circuit details
Let’s take a look now at the circuit
– see Fig.1.
There’s not much to it. At the left,
we have two USB Type B sockets to
accept the signals from the two PCs
(PC1 & PC2). These are the upstream
ports and their V+, D- and D+ (data)
lines are connected to switches S1asiliconchip.com.au
K
A
Fig.1: the circuit uses switch poles S1a-S1c to select either USB socket
CON1 or CON2 and connect its pins through to CON3. The fourth pole
(S1d) selects either LED1 or LED2, to indicate which PC has been selected.
470Ω
3
2
4
1
CON1
LED1
A
PC2
PC1
CON3
PC1
4
3
2
3
2
4
1
CON2
1
LED2
TO PRINTER
FROM PC1
1 PC board, code 07104091, 77
x 46mm
1 UB5 plastic utility box, 83 x 54
x 31mm
1 front panel label, 48 x 77mm
2 Type B USB sockets, PC-mount
(CON1, CON2)
1 Type A USB socket, PC-mount
(CON3)
1 PC-mount 4-pole, 3-position
rotary switch
1 knob to suit
4 M3 x 15mm tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws
4 M3 x 6mm countersink-head
machine screws
2 3mm red LED (LEDs1&2)
1 470Ω resistor
USB PRINTER SHARE SWITCH
FROM PC2
Parts List
LEDS
S1
A
PC2
H C TI W S R E T NIRP B S U
19040170
9002 ©
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board as shown here. Note particularly
the orientation of switch S1. It’s mounted so that the flat side of its shaft
faces CON3 when the switch is in the centre position.
S1c respectively, while their GND
terminals (pin 4) are commoned and
fed through to pin 4 of USB Ty pe A
socket CON3.
Basically S1 is wired as a 4-pole
3-position switch. However, the centre
position is unused. That’s been done to
ensure a clean break when switching
between positions 1 & 2 of each pole,
so that either a break-before-make or
a make-before-break switch can be
used.
In operation, S1a-S1c simply select between USB sockets CON1 and
CON2. In position (1), the outputs from
CON1 are selected and fed through to
the downstream USB output socket
(CON3). Conversely, in position 2,
CON2’s outputs are selected and fed
through to CON3.
Switch pole S1d selects between
LED1 and LED2, to indicate which
input socket (and thus which PC) is
selected. These two LEDs connect
to the V+ (+5V) lines from CON1 &
CON2 respectively, while the associated 470Ω resistor to ground provides
current limiting (to about 10mA).
As a result, LED1 lights when S1
selects position 1 (CON1), while LED2
lights for position 2 (CON2).
CON3 is a USB Type A socket. This
is connected to the USB device (eg, a
printer) via a standard USB Type A to
Type B cable.
Construction
All the parts for the USB Switch are
mounted on a small PC board coded
07104091 and measuring 77 x 46mm.
This assembly fits inside a standard
UB5-size plastic utility box, with recApril 2009 43
B
B
9
PC2
PC1
14
9
A
A
17.75
SILICON
CHIP
USB SWITCH
C
18.25
18.25
16.5
B
B
PERIPHERAL
17
ALL DIMENSIONS
IN MILLIMETRES
CL
HOLES A: 3.0mm DIAMETER
HOLES B: 3.0mm DIAM, CSK
HOLE C: 9.0mm DIAMETER
Fig.3: this diagram shows the drilling and cutout details for the lid (left),
together with the full-size front-panel artwork (right).
This is the fully-assembled PC board. Be sure to install the rotary switch
with the flat side of its shaft towards CON3 (at right) when the switch is
in the centre position. The LED leads are soldered after the board has
been attached to the lid (see text).
The PC board is attached to the lid of the case using four M3 x 15mm
tapped spacers and M3 x 6mm machine screws.
44 Silicon Chip
tangular cutouts at either end to access
the USB sockets.
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on
the PC board. Begin the assembly by
installing the five wire links and the
470Ω resistor. The three USB sockets
can then be installed. Make sure these
sit flush against the PC board before
soldering their pins and don’t forget
to solder the large tabs on either side
of each socket.
Switch S1 is next. First, cut its shaft
to 10mm, then install it on the board
so that the flat side of the shaft faces
CON3 when the switch is in the centre
position. Be sure to push the switch
all the way down so that it sits flush
against the board before soldering its
pins.
Once the switch is in, fit an M3 x
15mm tapped spacer to each corner
mounting position. Secure these using
M3 x 6mm screws. The board assembly
is then complete except for the two
LEDs, which we’ll come to shortly.
Final assembly
Fig.3 shows the drilling details for
the case lid. Four 3mm mounting holes
are required for the PC board, two 3mm
holes for the LEDs and a single 9mm
hole for the switch shaft.
Fig.3 also shows the full-size artwork for the front-panel label. This can
either be photocopied or downloaded
from the SILICON CHIP website and
printed out. Protect it by covering it
with clear contac film, then attach it
to the lid using a thin smear of silicone
sealant as the adhesive. Wait until the
silicone dries before cutting out the
holes using a sharp hobby knife.
The PC board can now be attached
to the lid. First, slip the two LEDs into
position (check their orientation), then
secure the board to the lid using four
M3 x 6mm countersink-head screws.
That done, fit the switch nut, then push
the LEDs through their front-panel
holes and solder their leads.
The final step is to make the cutouts
in the ends of the case for the USB
sockets. You will need two 12 x 10mm
cutouts for the type B sockets and a 17
x 9mm cutout for the type A socket.
These can be made by first marking out
their positions, then drilling a series
of holes around the inside perimeters,
knocking out the centre pieces and
filing them to a neat finish.
That’s it – your USB Switch is now
complete. Attach the lid to the case, fit
SC
the knob and it’s ready to go.
siliconchip.com.au
|