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siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Contents
Vol.22, No.5; May 2009
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
Features
12 Tech Support: Terror Tales From The Front Line
You wouldn’t believe some of the idiotic calls that computer tech support
people get; but then again you just might – by Barrie Smith
16 HID Lamps: Out Of The Car & Over Your Shoulder
It’s taken a while but high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps are now available in
hand-held spotlights. Here’s a look at Jaycar’s ST-3369 – by Ross Tester
Dead-Accurate 6-Digit
GPS-Locked Clock – Page 20.
70 Why Calibrate Your Test Equipment?
If you work in industry, it’s vital that your test equipment is correctly calibrated.
Here’s why – by Tony Tong
72 How To Draw Circuit Schematics In Protel Autotrax
Here’s an easy way to make your circuit diagrams look good – by Rick Walters
Pro jects To Build
20 Dead-Accurate 6-Digit GPS-Locked Clock, Pt.1
Looking for a digital clock that’s always dead accurate? This one is locked to
GPS time signals, so it never needs setting or adjusting – by Jim Rowe
36 230VAC 10A Full-Wave Motor Speed Controller
230VAC 10A Motor Speed
Controller – Page 36.
It gives smooth control from near zero to full speed on electric drills, routers,
circular saws & other appliances with universal motors – by John Clarke
62 Precision 10V DC Reference For Checking DMMs
Check your DMM’s accuracy with this simple device. It provides a precision
10V DC reference that’s accurate to within ±3mV – by Jim Rowe
80 UHF Remote 2-Channel 230VAC Power Switch
Long range (80-metres) unit uses pre-built UHF transmitter & receiver modules
to make it easy to build – by Branco Justic & Ross Tester
88 Input Attenuator For The Digital Audio Millivoltmeter
Precision 10V DC Reference
For Checking DMMs – Page 62.
Extend the range of the SILICON CHIP Digital Audio Millivoltmeter with this
easy-to-build switched input attenuator – by Jim Rowe
Special Columns
30 Circuit Notebook
(1) 12V Regulated Inverter Supply; (2) Solar Panel Tracker Uses LED Sensors;
(3) Picaxe-Based Solar HWS Boost Control; (4) 3-Stage Dimmer For Mountain
Bike Light; (5) Reticulation Valve Locator; (6) Overvoltage Protection For DC
Loads; (7) Preamplifier For Speed Controller
57 Serviceman’s Log
The real meaning of eternity – by the Serviceman
UHF Remote 2-Channel
Mains Switch – Page 80.
92 Vintage Radio
The Astor Football GR/GRP 3-Valve TRF Receiver – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2
4
29
79
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
96 Ask Silicon Chip
99 Notes & Errata
102 Market Centre
Input Attenuator
For The SC Digital Audio
Millivoltmeter – Page 88.
May
ay 2009 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
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Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Mauro Grassi, B.Sc. (Hons), Ph.D
Photography
Ross Tester
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
High-speed broadband network
could be a white elephant
So the Federal Government has proposed a completely
new optical fibre broadband network. Whoopee! All
those people who are dissatisfied with their present
internet connections will no doubt be salivating at the
prospect of such a high-speed, high capacity network?
Or will they? And what will they use it for?
In the days after the initial release there have been
numerous questions raised about the huge projected cost
to build it, its overall coverage of the population and the
projected monthly charges. At the time of writing this editorial, there is simply not
enough detailed information to make an informed comment. Nor has any of the
enabling legislation been drawn up and nor do we know if it will be passed in its
proposed form or whether it may be changed so much that the result bears little
resemblance to the original proposal.
But in spite of the lack of detail, there are a number of concerns that do need to be
addressed before the project gets too far down the track. The first question revolves
around the huge projected cost of $43 billion, which is an order of magnitude larger
than the $4.7 billion government contribution to the originally proposed broadband
tender. This means that the project will have enormous financial costs even before
a single customer has signed up. It also means that the monthly charges will need
to be quite high, perhaps as high as $150 to $200 according to some analysts. You
would need to be a very committed user to pay that much.
Second, we would need to be assured that there would be no significant differences between download and upload speeds, as there are with the present broadband
system. Fast download speeds are all very well if you are downloading movies but
business wants fast upload speeds as well, for a wide range of applications.
Third, there is a big question over whether we need a fibre-optic network at all,
in addition to the existing cable networks. With the ever-increasing speeds available from wireless networks, why have another cable network running down the
streets of the nation. And is the new fibre-optic network likely to be above ground,
like the present Optus network? Surely not! Many developing nations are choosing to bypass conventional wired networks for phone and internet and have gone
straight to wireless systems.
Overall, I have a very bad feeling concerning this plan. Is it likely to be another
financial disaster like the 1980s PayTV debacle? Is the government trying to come
good on an election promise when it should quietly leave the whole field to private enterprise? And are we going to end up with another government-sponsored
monopoly like Telstra was?
Finally, if the government is all that keen to build big infrastructure projects, why
not build something really tangible such as the long-proposed Very Fast Train (VFT)
project? This would not only provide a very important high-speed link between the
eastern state capitals of Brisbane, Sydney, Canberra & Melbourne but would also
help reduce Australia’s oil import bill and thus the balance of payments. It would
also reduce our overall greenhouse gas emissions – something which is supposedly
a big concern to the Federal Labor Government.
In suggesting the Very Fast Train project, I am mindful of the pitfalls of such
government-sponsored infrastructure such as the Alice Springs to Darwin railway
which is over-burdened with debt. However, the VFT project would potentially
serve a very large population along its proposed route and there would be countless benefits apart from the railway itself.
Leo Simpson
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May 2009 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Basslink
temperature limit
In your Publisher’s Letter for the
March 2009 issue you question the
temperature rating of the Basslink
Tasmanian converter station.
In fairness to the Basslink designers it should be pointed out that the
nearest weather station with long-term
records is Low Head which has had an
all-time peak temperature of 29.5°C.
The Basslink station is quite close but
inland from Low Head, which is right
on the coast, so it was reasonable to
allow an extra 5.5 °C for its maximum
design temperature.
The Victorian converter station has
a higher temperature rating and did
not limit.
Graham Shepherd,
via email.
Powakaddy battery
charger information
Silly legislation
in South Australia
The School Zone Speed Alert described in the April 2009 issue is a
very clever piece of engineering. Unfortunately, I do not think there will be
many made in South Australia – see
the accompanying photo.
The South Australian Government
only implements the standard “Australian Road Rules” when it suits them.
The school signage used to be 40km/h
with the times of the day listed as in
the other states but some of our smart
politicians decided they knew best and
changed the speed limit to 25km/h,
whenever children are present. I have
contacted the RAA (our motoring
4 Silicon Chip
body here) about this anomaly but
they said even though it was wrong,
they couldn’t get the government to
listen.
It is very confusing trying to spot
a child (it would seem to be at any
time of the day or night), as there are
usually many cars parked near school
crossings.
Ron Mills VK5XW,
Rosslyn Park, SA.
Comment: that is stupid, isn’t it? It
means that if a child is on the footpath
but hidden behind a car, you could be
booked for speeding.
Perhaps I can point E. W. in the right
direction re the Powakaddy battery
charger (Ask SILICON CHIP, February
2009, page 96). Firstly, he is correct
in assuming the charger needs a battery connected before it produces any
output. But if there are alligator clips
fitted, this unit has been modified.
There would normally be a special
connector to fit into a Powakaddy
connector which is fitted to the top
of the battery. This prevents reverse
connection.
The two “extra” wires should incorporate some sort of temperature
sensing device but I am not sure what
it is. I recently modified one of these
chargers to use Anderson Connectors. The original cable is of moulded
construction and the sensing device is
embedded into it, in close proximity
to the positive and negative leads. It
almost seems to be sensing the wire
temperature, as it is nowhere near
the battery. I carefully fitted the new
connectors, making sure the sensor
returned to its original position.
If the original is special wire that
raises temperature rapidly in an overcurrent situation and the sensor has
been destroyed by a previous modification, then E.W. has a problem and
could be left with so much scrap metal.
I don’t like the chances of getting a
schematic from the makers (UK) or the
siliconchip.com.au
Changes to
RS-232C converter
I want to suggest two changes to the circuit of my
port-powered RS232C-to-current loop converter,
published in the Circuit Notebook pages of the April
2009 issue. These changes are necessary to make it
work with some current loop interfaces such as the
Cassette Tape Interface for Microcomputers (from
“Electronics Australia”, April 1977) which need the
voltage across the SEND output to go below 0.6V
for a logic level of 1.
The changes are as follows:
(1) LED1 in the SEND side of the circuit drops too
much voltage and must be replaced by a link.
(2) The 10kΩ resistor in the SEND side of the current
loop circuit must be replaced by a 150Ω resistor.
Andrew Partridge,
Toowoomba East, Qld.
local agent in Australia. All Powakaddy parts are still
available and I think they are regarded as “throw away”
devices. I have found their electronics to be extremely
reliable which is just as well, as I have to “fly blind”
and fortunately have had very little trouble with the
actual boards.
Bob Rayner,
Willow Vale, NSW.
Comments about
Tempmaster Mk2
I have a couple of comments about the Tempmaster
Mk2 thermostat project in the February 2009 issue of
SILICON CHIP. This is a fantastic project but I want to
improve its reliability.
Firstly, the use of a 3.5mm socket and plug for the
sensor is definitely a bad idea. I have used these and
the 6.5mm version in the past and they are fine for
projects where a permanent connection is not wanted,
a good connection is not critical and where the plug is
removed and refitted often.
Because of bad design though, the earth connection
which is the case of the plug (normally) and the mount
of the socket (normally) is not a spring connection so
they rely on pressure from the tip connection to also
put pressure on the barrel of the plug (still a poor connection but if the plug and socket are kept clean, it
works – just). However, in the case of the stereo version
there is a springy connection on one side for the tip and
another on the other side for the ring, thus there is no
pressure on the barrel or earth connection.
For their intended use with headphones which are
inserted and removed often, this poor connection matters little. I’m sure most people who use headphones
know of the poor connection whenever the plug is wriggled. All varieties of the stereo version have the same
defect, weather it’s 2.5mm, 3.5mm or 6.25mm, but there
are versions that do have a springy earth connection.
In the Tempmaster the problem is twofold. First, the
signal is low-level DC instead of higher level AC so
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 5
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6 Silicon Chip
Proof-reading
is a problem
Just had to mention your
“carbon diode emissions”
at the end of the second
last paragraph of your
Publisher’s Letter. That’s
right . . . diode! I’m not
surprised they would be the
equivalent of two very large
coal-fired power stations!
Anyway I always enjoy
reading your magazine and I
think if we all get grid-fed solar
systems with government rebate
you won’t need any more power
stations due to it covering the
peak power load.
(B. J., via email).
Comment: carbon diode emissions,
eh? That just shows that we read
what we want to read. Four people
the connection is much more critical
as AC can still work through a dirty
connection via capacitance. The DC
signal would also promote electrolysis, making things even worse. Second,
once connected, it would rarely be
unplugged and thus the self-cleaning
action of plugging in and out would
not occur.
The solution is to use the ring connection for the earth, as this too is a
springy connector. If I was constructing it though, I would solder the sensor permanently to the circuit board.
Then there would never be a problem
as this project would most likely be
built, plugged in and then hidden
away, never to be seen again (as long
as it behaves itself).
My second comment applies to using the Tempmaster with an inverter.
You mentioned Dr Tom Chalko’s comment about poor efficiency of the older
version because of a high quiescent
current. I would have thought any quiescent current would be undesirable,
no matter how small, as the inverter
would have to run continuously to just
feed the device in standby.
If a purely mechanical thermistor
were used then the quiescent current
would be zero, allowing the inverter
checked that page before it was
printed.
to shut down into standby mode and
draw little power. However, mechanical thermistors are highly inaccurate
and so are not a good solution.
It just doesn’t make sense to step a
low DC voltage up to 230V AC then
back to a low DC voltage (just think of
all the inefficiencies involved). If the
inverter system is 12V, then a simple
solution would be to run the electronics directly from the 12V battery,
allowing the inverter to shut down
between cooling cycles.
Philip Chugg,
Launceston, Tas.
Comment: we take your point about
possible unreliability of the 3.5mm
jack connection. Possibly a better solution would be to connect the sensor via
a 2-way screw terminal block.
As far as the quiescent current is
concerned, our suggested arrangements for connection shown on page
33 of the article should solve that
problem. Your suggestion to run the
Tempmaster from the main 12V battery is shown in (B) on page 33.
Compact fluorescent lamps
don’t save much power
Regarding the Publisher’s Letter in
the February 2009 issue, I agree with
siliconchip.com.au
Alternative theory of
cylinder deactivation
I have an alternative theory
about the principle of switching off
cylinders in petrol engines, as described in the January 2009 Honda
article. You mentioned, in answer
to a reader’s letter, that it is about
reducing the pumping losses of the
engine. I don’t believe this to be
entirely accurate. I thought that the
theory behind this is that economy
is improved because the remaining
active cylinders are working with
higher compression.
I read somewhere (and I thought it
was in SILICON CHIP actually a long
time ago but I wasn’t able to find it)
that the thermal efficiency of an internal combustion engine is directly
proportional to compression. That
is, when combustion happens under
compression, more of the energy
converted is mechanical. Therefore
when a petrol engine is under light
load/low throttle conditions, it is
working with low compression and
thus lower thermal efficiency.
Hypothetically, if two identical
petrol cars, with the exception of engine sizes, with one a 2-litre engine
and the other a 5-litre engine, were
both travelling at 80km/h), the 2-litre
car would use less fuel. The reason
is that the 5-litre vehicle is working
with proportionately less throttle
and therefore has less fuel/air charge
in the combustion chambers and so
is operating with less compression
than the 2-litre vehicle.
The concept of switching off
cylinders would be to effectively
reduce the size of the engine, meaning that the throttle has to be opened
wider, thus keeping the compression
higher.
This would not apply to diesel engines where the air intake is always
non-restricted. The throttle on a
diesel varies the amount of fuel delivery only and these engines always
operate at maximum compression.
Diesels have a 2-fold advantage in
terms of efficiency:
(1) They have much higher compression than petrol engines, resulting in
you 100%. Nobody in government
understands much about science or
electricity. Sure CFLs light use less
energy than incandescents but has
siliconchip.com.au
greater thermal efficiency and;
(2) More importantly, this high compression is maintained under light
load/low throttle conditions.
Pumping loss in petrol engines
in terms of pure physics is a very
real loss but then consider this:
when the engine is producing a
high vacuum under low throttle and
there is more energy lost during each
intake stroke, you would think that
the compression stroke immediately
following would be easier and may
even be assisted by this vacuum just
after “BDC”, which would somewhat
compensate for this loss.
I did a little experiment once
while driving and that was to switch
the engine off while in gear (in a
manual transmission car) and let
the momentum of the car turn the
engine over. I compared the braking
effect of the engine with my foot on
and off the accelerator. There was
no perceivable difference.
If pumping losses were significant, this would surely result in the
engine being harder to turn over with
minimum accelerator and therefore
have a more noticeable braking
effect. So I think that in practice,
pumping loss is probably quite low
and in fact may be entirely non-existent due to the energies required for
the intake and compression strokes
balancing and cancelling out.
So the primary reasoning behind
the cylinder deactivation technology, I think, is more about maintaining higher compression.
Grant Saxton,
Cambridge, NZ.
Comment: your ideas about more
air/fuel mixture being available to
the effectively smaller engine are
correct. However, it still comes back
to pumping losses and perhaps we
should have explained that point in
more detail.
In effect, any engine sucking air
through a partially open throttle is
a very inefficient pump and if the
throttle opening can be increased or
the amount of mixture is distributed
over fewer cylinders, the effect is a
reduction in pumping losses.
anyone looked at the facts. CFLs cannot be dimmed, cannot be used with
automatic switching devices and give
off an awful colour in some cases.
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8 Silicon Chip
Global warming
and SMDs
I think you have a superb magazine. I keep them all and find much
enjoyment in reading them again,
even years afterwards.
I have two points of concern
though. First, you take the view in
your Publisher’s Letter (February
2009) that governments should
“wait and see” as far as climate
change is concerned. You don’t
seem to take global warming seriously. I enjoy the editorials, so I’ll
be glad if you can reassure me you
are not as irresponsible about this
as it appears.
Second, I am disappointed that an
SMD chip is used in a design when
a similar DIP package is available.
I do understand the argument that
was put forward in your SMD article (March 2008) that some ICs are
available only in SMD packages but
I think a little effort can be made to
use normal DIPs when possible.
SMDs are not made for the average hobbyist and soldering them is
tricky, by your own admission. In
the design for a 1W Luxeon LED
supply (January 2004), an SMD IC
is used where a DIP package could
have been used, such as used by the
same author in the Starpower LED
Driver (May 2004).
I am aware that the two ICs are
not the same, eg, the MAX1676 can
operate at lower voltages, etc. However I am sure that a switchmode
LED driver can be designed around
the MC34063, for example, without
compromising too much. It might
need a few extra components and
require a few more battery cells for
Another important point is that
incandescents present a pure resistance to the supply, ie, their power
factor is unity. CFLs are essentially
a small switchmode power supply
(SMPS) and present a capacitive load
with a power factor of about 0.5. As
you know, SMPS introduce harmonics
and noise and waveform distortion
which the supply authorities struggle
to constantly correct. If we replace
a higher voltage but at least the majority of hobbyists, whom I’m sure
prefer not to solder SMDs, would
then be up to the job.
Unlike us, the electronic shops
which sell components and kits
are quite capable of investing in an
SMD soldering machine. If there is
no option but to use SMD components in a design, they can sell the
PC board with the SMD chip already
in place. We will do the rest. I am
willing to pay more to avoid the
SMD hassles.
Frederik Wentzel,
Mindarie, WA.
Comment: as far as man-made climate change is concerned, we are yet
to be convinced. We simply do not
know enough about climate in order
to make any long-term predictions.
Just recently, a group of scientists
announced that they now think that
the Indian Ocean might play a bigger part in determining Australia’s
climate than the El Nino and La Nina
effects in the Pacific Ocean.
Nor is the risk of bleaching of
the Great Barrier Reef solely due
to warming – runoff from farms etc
seems to be a much bigger factor. The
melting of the Antarctic ice shelves
is a concern but then again, glaciers
have been receding for thousands
of years.
In any case, until the major economies decide to do something about
climate change, there is little point
in Australia strangling its economy
with a carbon-trading scheme, particularly as we and the rest of the
world head into recession. However,
there is much to be done in making
the economy more efficient.
millions of lamps at PF = 0.5, we add
lots of reactive energy to the system
which has to be corrected; not by the
consumer but by the supply authority.
Another point you made concerned
the savings. Some lamps are used so
intermittently and any saving made by
replacing them with low-–power CFLs
is negligible. In my opinion, LEDs are
the real power saver but are still not
fully developed.
siliconchip.com.au
We cannot ban incandescents yet;
not for long time. What about stage
lighting, photography and cars (headlights and driving lights)? I think
governments need to get real and get
informed.
Sal Sidoti,
Strathfield, NSW.
Comment: some CFLs are dimmable.
Secondly, the ban on importing incandescents is already in force and that is
why so many retailers now have little
stock left.
Digital TV time coding
is inconsistent
I wonder can anyone enlighten me
as to why and how the ABC on both
ABC1 and ABC2 encode the time in
their broadcast signal. I have two hard
disk recorders, one a Tevion, the other
a Medion. The Medion gets the time
correct, the Tevion and our Panasonic
HDTV set show the time on both ABC
channels as Eastern Standard Time,
but all other channels show it as the
correct daylight saving time.
There is no option to change it as the
embedded time signal over-rides any
manual setting. To record a program
I have to set the start time one hour
earlier and on the Tevion at least it is
impossible to record a non-ABC channel program immediately followed by
an ABC one as they both appear to have
the same time. It doesn’t worry me too
much but I am curious.
Rod Cripps,
Parkdale, Vic.
Comment: we have also noticed that
the time encoding of many digital
programs is inconsistent on the EPG
panels.
DIY wiring horror story
I read with interest the debate
concerning DIY electrical wiring
and thought this might interest other
readers.
Over 20 years ago my in-laws moved
house to Yeronga in Brisbane. Their
new home was a 1960s brick and
timber 2-story house. On settlement,
my mother-in-law decided to give the
house a good clean before any furniture
was moved in. I received a call about
10AM from my mother-in-law asking
if I could fix the vacuum cleaner, as it
was not working very well.
On arrival the vacuum cleaner was
siliconchip.com.au
turned on but it was running very
slowly. My first thought was the motor
had worn brushes. So I picked it up
and took it to the kitchen bench and
plugged it in to have a better look at
it. To my surprise it ran perfectly. So I
took it back to the power point it was
plugged into and it ran slow. I got my
multimeter out to check the power
point and accidentally set it to DC and
was surprised to see 48V DC. I flipped
the meter over to AC and got nothing.
My test lamps did not light but I got
a bit of a spark when I disconnected
them, which was odd.
So I undid the power point from the
wall and found telephone wires on the
Active and Neutral. I then decided
to check all the power points in the
house and discovered that a number
of telephones in the bedrooms were
plugged into power points using 3-pin
plugs! On inspection these power
points were connected to telephone
wires as well. I cut the 3-pin plugs
off the telephones, as this could have
been really dangerous if plugged into
a power point wired for 240VAC.
Now as the saying goes “but there
is more”. The house-cleaning contractor had arrived and he was washing
under the upper eaves and broke one
of those 1960s circular dome ceiling
lights. The only way I could get to this
light was from inside the roof space.
Fixing the light was easy but what I
found could have electrocuted anyone
in the roof space. These lights were
home handyman-wired as well and
used the four terminals of the bayonet
fitting from the insides of batten holders as wire connectors.
Worse still, Elastoplast had been
used to tape them up and it was now
wet from the ingress of the water
used on the external house cleaning.
A subsequent check of the wiring in
the ceiling meant that I spent the remaining of the day in the roof sorting
it all out.
As an electrician, I do have some
sympathy regarding non-electricians
doing some things provided that the
correct methodology and testing is
used. What bothers me is that the
former owner of this house was a
civil engineer and should have known
better. I think this is the stumbling
block where people can’t make the
judgement to leave some things to the
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May 2009 9
Mailbag: continued
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Solar panel will not top up
car battery
The accompanying photo shows a solar powered
battery charger commonly
sold at various hardware
outlets and alternative
lifestyle fairs. Note that
the connector is a cigarette
lighter plug and yet these
devices are advertised as
able to keep your battery
topped up while parked.
Many cars (perhaps most
or all) do not allow a connection between the battery
and the cigarette lighter while the
engine is not running or the accessory switch on, so I imagine that
many non-technically minded folk
are plugging these devices into the
lighter socket and believing that it is
trickle-charging their battery.
The instructions make no mention
of any required modifications to the
car’s wiring to achieve this goal. The
panels themselves seem to be quite
reasonable value and effectively
charge battery power tools, etc.
Graham Lill,
Hobart, Tas.
Comment: you are correct. As far as
we can determine, in most cars the
professional, not because they can’t
afford to pay for a qualified person
but because they won’t pay. I need to
also point out that I have worked with
many engineers who would make very
good electricians and who also know
when to get help.
Neil Bruce,
Tarragindi, Qld.
Comment: we are surprised that the
DC voltage on the phone lines was able
to run a vacuum cleaner at any speed.
Telephone lines have an impedance of
600Ω so if indeed, the motor was running, something else was happening to
provide the necessary power.
We still think that if the right information about DIY electrical wiring was
made available by the authorities, as
it is in New Zealand, such instances
of dangerous wiring would be greatly
10 Silicon Chip
cigarette lighter and accessory sockets are switched off and therefore
disconnected from the battery when
the keys are removed from the ignition. The only way that these solar
panels can charge the battery is via
an additional cigarette-lighter socket
connected to a circuit which is permanently energised, such as for the
cabin lights or the horn, preferably
via a suitable fuse, say 1A.
The concept is good but unless
you make the changes noted, it won’t
work. The solar panel in your photo
graph appears similar to one sold by
Jaycar (Cat. MB-3501) however they
point out that it requires a separate
socket or clip leads.
diminished. Instead, in Australia, the
authorities give out no information
and wave a big stick.
Feedback on Programmable
Time Delay Flash Trigger
I was most excited by your Photo
Flash Delay Trigger project in the
February 2009 issue. But there is one
input to it I would like to see and that
is a beam breaker circuit.
One thing many professional film
cameras (such as my 1988 Nikon F4)
had, and which no digital camera (I can
find anyway) has today, was “Trap Focus”. That is where the photographer
would focus his camera in a given spot
and the subject would automatically
take their own picture when they hit
the focus zone.
This was most commonly done in
siliconchip.com.au
sports and wildlife photography, car racing, etc. Alas,
these old features are now missing. Articles abound in old
photography magazines of simple electronic beam “trap
focus” triggers for cameras or flashes but none have the
excellent sophistication and timing delays of your sound
flash trigger.
Your project is great for photographing breaking and
exploding things, etc but how would it handle, say, an
owl just about to alight on a nest? There are times when
silence may be golden but also essential. Also there is often
no time to spend adjusting the sound sensitivity levels in
many situations, where you may only get one shot.
Imagine dropping a dart on a balloon and trying to get the
point just piercing the surface. This would not work with
the sound trigger, as the bang would come ever so slightly
after so you could spend ages adjusting the sensitivity.
So please, please, can you add a beam-breaking trigger
to this project?
Sandy Barrie,
Honorary Life Member,
Australian Institute of Professional Photographers.
Comment: as it happens we have the exact project coming
very soon. It can be used on its own or in conjunction with
the Programmable Time Delay Flash Trigger.
DAB on the wane in the UK
I was delighted to learn from your editorial in the February issue that New Zealand has rescinded their ban on
incandescent lamps. I think the Australian Government
is out of touch with reality with their ban on the sale of
incandescent lamps. In my house, we might have three
lights on in the occupied areas with other lights such as
toilet, hallway and stairs turned on for the few minutes
they are required. Compact fluorescent lamps take too long
to get going to be of any use in these applications.
Similarly, the exterior lights which are controlled by
PIRs are also incandescent as they too are only on for 10
minutes at a time. Thus, my typical lighting load might
be at the most 300W and more typically two 60W lamps
and one 40W fluorescent, ie, about 160W.
Compare this to the fan heaters we use in winter which
draw 2200W and it is pretty obvious that going to compact
fluorescent lighting may not actually save much energy
– particularly if you have to wait several minutes for the
CFLs to warm up and give usable light. I also understand
that CFLs do not like being turned on and off quickly – this
is exactly how many of the lights in my house are used.
I enjoyed the article on Digital Radio but would like to
make the following points. In the UK, the DAB system is
seen to be on the way out, with networks closing down
and licences being allowed to lapse. There is also the sting
that the networks which are still going are moving to DAB+
which uses a different method of audio encoding, so all
the older DAB radios will be rendered obsolete.
One comment I read was that this was a really good way
to upset the so-called “early adopters” who bought the early
expensive DAB receivers. Also DRM seems to be going
nowhere. I have only heard of three DRM receivers (apart
from the software ones, such as Dream, which run on a
PC using a sound card) and they are not widely available
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as well as still having some software issues. They are also
quite power hungry. Now there is talk of moving to DRM+.
DRM also causes interference to analog stations. Until
there are cheap power-efficient digital receivers which are
close in cost to the current AM shortwave radios, I can’t
see DRM getting anywhere.
I thoroughly enjoyed the article on 2.4GHz DSS radio
control systems. It has been quite a while since I last read
about radio control in an electronics magazine.
Finally, I have a question regarding the “Improved
Universal Motor Speed Controller (Mk2)” featured in the
February 2009 issue. Why can’t you feed this circuit via
a bridge rectifier? That way you can switch the pulses at
100Hz and it would still be pulsating DC.
As a result, you would get almost the full range of
power to the motor, yet you can still measure the motor
back-EMF in the time before the Triac triggers. Doing this
would eliminate the need for the “full speed” switch.
You could also eliminate diode D1 in this case. So what
am I missing?
David Williams,
Hornsby, NSW.
Comment: if you had a full-wave rectifier, the SCR would
never turn off and control would be lost. To get full range
speed control, you need a more complicated design, as is
featured in the speed control project starting on page 36
SC
in this month’s issue.
May 2009 11
I
speak of the Tech Support people, those unsung heroes
of the technical turmoil that surrounds all of us in this
challenging world of the 21st century.
I make no claim to the following Terror Tech Tales being
original – many of them have been “doing the rounds” for
years. But they can all handle re-telling!
Terror Tech Tales
Often the early days are the worst.
Customer: “Do I need a computer to use your software?”
TS: “Aagh!”
Followed by:
TS: “I need you to right-click on the Open Desktop.”
Customer: “OK.”
TS: “Did you get a pop-up menu?”
Customer: “No.”
TS: “Ok. Right click again. Do you see a pop-up
menu?”
Customer “No.”
TS: “Ok, sir. Can you tell me what you have done up
until this point?”
Customer: “Sure, you told me to write ‘click’ and I wrote
‘click’.”
Should have got a medal!
Software problems can sometimes lead to a greater awareness with the general public. This is an actual conversation
that occurred between a customer and a Tech Support
operator. (He later got fired for his responses!).
TS: “May I help you?”
Customer: “Yes, I’m having trouble with WordPerfect.”
TS: “What sort of trouble?”
12 Silicon Chip
Customer: “Well I was just typing, and all of a sudden
the words went away”
TS: “Went away?”
Customer: “They disappeared.”
TS: “ So what does your screen look like now?”
Customer: “It’s blank; it won’t accept anything when
I type.”
TS: “Are you still in WordPerfect or did you get out? Can
you see the C: prompt of the screen?”
Customer: “What’s a sea-prompt?”
TS: “Never mind. Can you move your cursor around
the screen?”
Customer: “There isn’t any cursor: I told you, it won’t
accept anything I type.”
TS: “Does your monitor have a power indicator?”
Customer: “What’s a monitor?”
TS: “It’s the thing with the screen on it that looks
like a TV. Does it have a little light that tells you when
it’s on?”
Customer: “I don’t know?”
TS: “Well, look on the back of the monitor and find where
the power cord goes into it. Can you see that?”
Customer: “Yes, I think so.”
TS: “Great. Follow the cord to the plug, and tell me if
it’s plugged into the wall.”
Customer: “Yes it is.”
TS: “When you were behind the monitor, you may have
noticed that there were two cables plugged into the back
of it, not just one. I need you to look back there again and
find the other cable.”
Customer: “I can’t reach it because I can’t see it because
it’s dark.”
TS: “Dark?”
siliconchip.com.au
This story is dedicated to those
fearless men and women who,
every day, brave dark and stormy
phone calls from the unknown,
un-named, ill-informed, querulous
public; to those who, with no regard
for their personal safety nor deep
intrusions into their mental sanity,
face hurt, shame and embarrassment
in their quest to answer the challenging
questions they are thrown.
Customer: “Yes the office light is off, and the only light
I have is coming in from the window.”
TS: “Well, turn on the office light then.”
Customer: “I can’t, because there’s a power failure,”
TS: “A power... a power failure? OK, we’ve got it licked
now. Do you still have the boxes and manuals and packing
stuff your computer came in?”
Customer: “Well, yes I keep them in the closet.”
TS: “Good. Go get them, and unplug your system and
pack it up just like it was when you got it. Then take it back
to the store you bought it from.”
Customer: “What do I tell them?”
TS: “Tell them you’re too $<at>#^%&! stupid to own a
computer”
D-u-m-b stupid!
Some companies face angry (read ‘dumb’) customers
more than others. Compaq Computers had a bad time a
while ago. Here are some incidents.
At one time Compaq considered changing the command
“Press Any Key” to “Press Return Key” because of the flood
of calls asking where the “Any” key is.
One Compaq technician received a call from a man
complaining that the system wouldn’t read word processing files from his 5¼-inch diskettes. After trouble-shooting
for magnets and heat failed to diagnose the problem, it was
found that the customer labelled the diskettes then rolled
them into the typewriter to type the labels.
Another customer called Compaq Tech Support to say
her brand-new computer wouldn’t work. She said she
unpacked the unit, plugged it in, and sat there for 20 minutes waiting for something to happen. When asked what
happened when she pressed the power switch, she asked
siliconchip.com.au
by Barrie Smith
“What power switch?”
And Dell Computer had a bad run some time back.
Back in the days when floppy disks were floppy and
drives had a “door” to close, the technician advised a customer to put his troubled floppy back in the drive and close
the door. The customer asked the tech to hold on, and was
heard putting the phone down, getting up and crossing the
room to close the door to his room.
Another customer called to say he couldn’t get his computer to fax anything. After 40 minutes of trouble-shooting,
the technician discovered the man was trying to fax a piece
of paper by holding it in front of the monitor screen and
hitting the “Send” key.
Yet another customer called to complain that his keyboard no longer worked. He had cleaned it by filling up
his bathtub with soap and water and soaking the keyboard
for a day, then removing all the keys and washing them
individually.
One technician received a call from a customer who was
enraged because his computer had told him he was “bad
and an invalid”. The tech explained that the computer’s
“bad command” and “invalid” responses shouldn’t be
taken personally.
An exasperated caller to Tech Support couldn’t get her
new computer to turn on. After ensuring the computer was
plugged in, the technician asked her what happened when
she pushed the power button. Her response, “I pushed and
pushed on this foot pedal and nothing happens.” The ‘foot
pedal’ turned out to be the computer’s mouse.
Then IBM had a bad trot. . .
One customer had trouble installing software and rang
for support.
May 2009 13
Customer: “I put in the first disk and that was OK. It said
to put in the second disk and I had some problems with
the disk. When it said to put in the third disk I couldn’t
even fit it in ...”
TS: “When you see the screen command say ‘Insert Disk
2’, you have to remove Disk 1 first.
Don’t let a Mac user ever tell you they never need to
contact Tech Support. Here’s one anecdote from the Apple orchard.
TS: “At 3:37 a.m. on a Sunday, I had just looked at the
clock to determine my annoyance level, when I received
a frantic phone call from a new user of a Macintosh Plus.
“She had taken her entire family out of the house and
was calling from her neighbour’s. She had just received
her first system error and interpreted the picture of the
bomb on the screen as a warning that the computer was
going to blow up!”
Apple Tech Support sometimes faces the unfaceable.
TS: “What operating system are you running?”
Student: “Huh?”
TS: “Do you have a Mac or a PC?”
Student: “Um, I don’t know.”
TS: “Ok. What does the screen look like?”
Student: “It’s yellow.”
Me: “Ok. What does it say on the computer CPU?”
Student: “What’s that?”
TS: “The big grey box.”
Student: “It doesn’t say anything.”
TS: “Never mind that ... do you have a little ‘Start’ button
at the bottom of the monitor?”
Student: “Monitor?”
TS: “The thing that looks like a TV screen sitting on the
grey box.”
Student: “Oh! That! No. No start button.”
TS: “Ok. Is there a little apple symbol anywhere on the
screen?”
Student: (very puzzled) “Why would I have fruit on my
computer?”
Today’s computers are easily capable of multi-tasking
but sometimes the public expects too much.
A senior telecommunications administrator at one company recalls a request from a user looking for another coffee
holder for his computer: “I asked him what he meant by
another coffee holder and he said, ‘You know, the one that
14 Silicon Chip
pops out of the PC.”
He thought the CD-ROM drive was a cup holder.
Sometimes the support goes to extremes — in the mind
of the caller.
TS: “OK, let’s press the Control and Escape keys at the
same time. That brings up a task list in the middle of the
screen. Now type the letter ‘P’ to bring up the Program
Manager.”
Customer: “I don’t have a ‘P’.”
TS: “On your keyboard.”
Customer: “What do you mean?”
TS: “’P’ on your keyboard.”
Customer: “I’m not going to do that!”
Computer companies aren’t the only ones to face perplexing calls either.
A woman called the Canon help desk with a problem
with her printer. The tech asked her if she was “running
it under Windows.”
The woman then responded, “No, my desk is next to the
door. But you have the answer — the man sitting in the
cubicle next to me is under a window, and his is working
fine.”
Even simple problems can perplex customers.
Customer: “I have a huge problem. A friend has placed
a screen saver on my computer, but every time I move the
mouse, it disappears.”
And:
TS: “Click on the ‘my computer’ icon on the left of the
screen.”
Customer: “Your left or my left?”
Sometimes the customer wants the process to be real
simple.
Customer: “One of my friends gave me an ImageWriter
printer and a keyboard. He said he gave me all the cables,
but I can’t figure out how to connect them. Am I missing
something?”
TS: “Well, a computer would help.”
Customer: “You mean this keyboard isn’t a word processor?”
TS: “No ma’am, its just an input device.”
Customer: “Then I need to buy a computer, right?”
TS: “Yes.”
Customer: “Do you think I’ll need a monitor, too?”
Some people want to make simple tasks, like making
backups, even simpler.
A system administrator for a company remembers when
files were small, hard drives were small and backups were
made with PC Tools which could be done using less than
ten 3.5-inch disks for all the most important directories.
One day the CEO of a company was asked by the administrator if he had done his monthly backup of his computer
data. He said he had, and had even been able to improve
the backup process. He’d discovered he didn’t have to
change disks if he just answered ‘Yes’ to all the “Is it ok
to overwrite this floppy disk?” prompts. He was overwriting backup disk #1 with the data for backup disk #2, then
overwriting that with the data for backup disk #3, and so
on. Boy, it sure saved on floppies.
And then there are people who go looking for trouble.
This sounds ridiculous, but it actually happened to a
Tech Suport person in a chain computer store.
Customer: “Hi, I’d like to buy a virus.”
TS: “You really don’t want a virus on your computer.
siliconchip.com.au
What you need is anti-virus software.”
Customer: “No, my son
told me I need a virus,
and that’s what I’d
like.”
TS: “No worries.
You don’t need to buy
a virus – you can just
connect to the internet
and download one.”
It’s not just computers that give problems.
Peripherals are in there
too.
A customer called
in with modem problems.
TS: “Ok, we’re going
to check your modem
settings. First thing we
need to do is make sure
all programs are closed.”
Customer: “How do
I know if everything is
closed?”
Me: “Make sure all windows
are closed.”
Customer: “But I’m in the basement. I don’t have any windows
here.”
Sometimes there are quick fixes.
One operator had a call from a customer who was complaining that when she typed, the wrong letters came up
on the screen. After some investigation, it was revealed that
she had pried off all the letter key caps off her keyboard
and rearranged them in alphabetical order.
Keyboards can be a forest of trouble.
TS: “Now press the spacebar.”
Customer: “Return bar?”
TS: “No, space bar. Space.”
Customer: “I have an Enter bar, Return bar, and a Shift
key?”
TS: “No, space. Space bar. The long horizontal key.”
Customer: (confused sounds).
TS: “OK. See your c, v, b, n, and m keys?”
Customer: “Yes...”
TS: “Right under them.”
Customer: “Oh.”
Then some people have trouble with the most basic
things in computing.
TS: “Ok, Bob, type a capital ‘B’, then press enter.”
Customer: “A capital B?”
TS: “Right, capital ‘B’ as in Bob.”
Customer: “Capital ‘B’ as in Bob?”
TS: “Exactly. Capital B as in Bob!”
Customer: (long pause) “That’s the one with two loops,
right?”
TS: “Now let’s type in the password where it says password.”
Passwords can be a puzzle.
Customer: “My password is HSD13....”
siliconchip.com.au
TS: “No, don’t tell me your password, just
type it in. And remember, those letters are in
capitals.”
Customer: “And the numbers, would those be
capitals too?”
We all know the dos and don’ts of computing.
One of these is never to eat or drink near a PC.
This plaintive call for help was mailed to a
Tech Support desk:
I spillced coffcee cincto my kcey boardc.c
As a rcesulct, c’s gcet inctermixcced with
cwactever I ctypce. Plcease replace mcy kceyboard. ccthanks.
Help for the Help Line
The question I ask is: how do the tech support people cope?
When asking tech support
specialists on how they got
through the average day
of dumb questions, the
results were interesting. In order to
remain sane, they
often resorted to
surprisingly unorthodox ways of dealing
with the constant barrage of
obnoxious users and technical foulups. Here’s one.
“When taking technical support calls, always be
sure to have a dice with you. This will become your single
most valuable tool in diagnosing customer support issues,
regardless of the technology or problem. Simply listen to
the customer describe the issue, roll the dice, and Bang!
— problem solved. Each number
on the dice corresponds to the
appropriate advice: 1. Reboot computer. 2. Format
hard drive. 3. Reinstall
software. 4. Cycle
power. 5. Update
required. 6. Return
for repair.”
Next time
Rememember, the
next time you call
Tech Support the voice
on the other end of the
line may be a real person
just like you with a wife/husband, family, dogs, a car, a TV, a
digital camera and heaps of techy gear
that he or she occasionally needs help with to
get it running properly.
And these days, occasionally, they might even understand the English language.
NEXT MONTH:
We’ll have a look at the more serious side of Tech Support and how the major companies deal with the biggest
SC
problem of all – the loose nut on the keyboard.
May 2009 15
HIDs:
out of the car and
over your shoulder!
by Ross Tester
It’s taken a while but at last, High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamps
are starting to appear in places other than just in car headlights.
Y
ou must have noticed them as you drive along: along- two facts alone mean they are much more efficient. But
side a conventional car headlight (ie, filament type they also offer significantly longer life (3000 vs 700-1000
and probably of the tungsten-halogen variety) they hours) and studies have shown they actually make night
look positively blue – or is it that even tungsten-halogen driving safer.
For an explanation on how HIDs work, refer to the articles
lamps look quite yellow alongside them?
More recently, HID lamps have started to filter down to in our February 1999 and/or May 2003 issues
the more mundane type of vehicle, although it’s true to say
that even today they are not as popular as tungsten-halogen HID Spotlights
We wondered how long it would be before HID lamps
lamps as original equipment. That’s almost certainly because of cost, where auto manufacturers look to save every started making inroads into “hand-held” spotlights. We
say hand-held with a grain of
cent possible.
salt (or perhaps a full shaker!).
In the auto accessory stores,
The ones we are talking about
HID replacement kits have also
are more “luggable” than handstarted to make their presence
held – which is why they invarifelt, even if at a premimum
ably have a shoulder strap! You
over “normal” lamps. Still, the
know, the type of spotlights you
margin between the two is eversee in your local auto accesdecreasing.
sory store offering “a million”
For those who have been
candlepower – or maybe even
driving around with their eyes
ten million candlepower. When
closed, HID lamps offer several
you’re talking those numbers,
advantages. For a start, they are
who is going to argue?
brighter. At the same time, they
Just think, though, how much
require less energy from the There’s no denying it’s a HID! Jaycar were never ones
light ten million candles would
car’s electrical system. These to hide their light under a bushel . . . (ouch!)
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
produce. A tad more than one of these spotlights? Yeah, we
think so too! By the way, 1 lumen roughly equates to 12.57
candlepower, so does one of these “ten million” babies
put out more than 795,000 lumens (10,000,000/12.57)?
Hmmm . . . maybe not!
However, this type of spotlight is very bright and is ideal
for, camping, 4WD’ing, nocturnal animal observation/hunting and so on. They are also used by emergency services,
police and rescue organisations, etc.
But we digress: a recent SILICON CHIP advert for
Jay-car Electronics got our attention when it claimed
to be the first spotlight with a HID lamp. This we just
had to see.
So as soon as stock actually arrived in the country,
Jaycar Electronics sent us one to examine. It arrived
with the battery already charged so we were able to use
it immediately.
Incidentally, the rechargeable battery gives about 50
minutes of continuous use and it recharges either from
a mains plugpack or a car cigarette lighter lead, both of
which are supplied. It weighs in at a rather hefty 3.8kg so
the comments we made before about luggability certainly
apply.
First impressions count – and to say we were impressed
is an understatement. Yes, it had a very bright, very blue/
white light – just like the automotive versions. In fact,
it hurt to look into the beam (but no-one would be silly
enough to do that, would they?).
Fortunately, we had one of those mega-candlepower
quartz/halogen spotlights with which to do a direct comparison. It’s an Arlec RT10000 which we bought a year
or so ago from a local auto parts shop. Apart from being
bright yellow (the Jaycar one is basic black!) the two were
quite similar in size and weight. We’d always been pretty
impressed with its performance – especially its brightness.
It was great to take camping!
Well, the HID model from Jaycar appeared much better.
What’s more, it appeared to have a more focuss ed beam so
it was even better at lighting up distant objects. Subjective
reaction was fine – but could we confirm it?
Part of the photographic setup at SILICON CHIP includes a
very accurate Minolta Flash Meter – we use it to measure
the output of our studio strobe during photography settings. This meter (fortunately!) also includes an
“ambient light” setting – in other words, you
can measure the amount of light falling
on a subject without flash. And
our experience is that it is
dead accurate.
Placing the light meter at
a set distance from each of
the two spotlights, we found
that the HID model was exactly one f-stop brighter than the
quartz halogen model.
For those not into photography,
the difference between any
two f-stops is double or half
the amount of light. So instead
of a subjective “yes the HID is
brighter” we could now confirm
it was twice as bright!
Power consumption
was also significantly
lower with the
Jaycar
HID,
as you
would expect. It was rated at
35W, whereas the Arlec has a Philips H4 halogen lamp
rated at 100W – virtually three times the current draw
from the 12V, 7Ah battery.
Which one would we choose?
Just on light levels alone, we’d choose the HID model
over the quartz halogen model any time. Except for one
tiny detail: the HID models are also about twice the price.
Our Arlec spottie sells at the local Super Cheap Auto store
for about $89.00 (every now and then it’s on special, save
10%). The Jaycar ST-3369 HID Spotlight sells for $165. So
for twice as bright, you’ll pay nearly twice as much.
Actual rated output of the Jaycar HID model is 3300
lumens, or 262 candlepower. It just goes to show how
ludicrous the claims of those ten million candlepower
spotties really are!
Is it worth the extra?
Obviously, that depends on your application and whether
you need the performance. But for our purposes, we would
suggest that the HID model gives you so much more that it
is well worth paying the premium that it commands. SC
Jaycar Rechargeable 35W HID spotlight (Cat ST-3369)
–$165 at all Jaycar Electronics stores
This photo shows the
actual HID bulb in the
Jaycar ST-3369 HID
Spotlight.
A typical HID bulb
showing its construction.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 17
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
Pt.1: By JIM ROWE
Build A 6-Digit
GPS clock
Looking for a digital clock that’s always dead accurate? This
one derives its time signals from the GPS (Global Positioning
Satellite) system, so it never needs setting or adjusting. It
features big, bright 58mm-high digits for the hours and minutes,
plus smaller digits to indicate the seconds.
20 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The main board uses 58mm-high 7-segment displays for the hours and minutes readouts plus smaller 13mm-high
digits to indicate the seconds. The GPS time signals are derived either from a small add-on module to be described
next month or from the GPS-Based Frequency Reference (see text).
I
N THE March 2009 issue, we featured a GPS-controlled analog clock
that’s proving very popular. Strictly
speaking though, this wasn’t a GPS
clock but a “GPS-corrected” clock.
Basically, an external module carrying a PIC processor and an EM-408 GPS
module was used to replace the clock’s
own crystal oscillator drive. The PIC
processor provides the timing signals
for the clock and the GPS module is
then used to re-synchronise the clock
once every 44 hours.
By contrast, this digital clock is
permanently locked to the GPS time
signals and always displays the correct
time. It can display UTC time (Universal Time Co-ordinated), local standard
time or local daylight saving time, all
at the touch of a button.
The digital clock display described
here can derive its GPS time signals
from the GPS-Based Frequency Reference described in the March-May
2007 issues of SILICON CHIP. However,
you don’t have to go to the expense
of building the GPS-Based Frequency
Reference. Instead, you can use the
siliconchip.com.au
above-mentioned EM-408 GPS module on a small PC board which can be
housed in the same case as the display
board to form a self-contained clock.
This will be described in Pt.2 next
month.
GPS Frequency Reference
The GPS-Based Frequency Reference described in the March-May 2007
issues already displays UTC time on
its small LCD readout. In order to get
your local time, you have to mentally
add (or subtract) the appropriate offset
for your particular time zone and also
add another hour if your state or region
is currently observing daylight saving.
As it turned out, many readers were
more interested in the timekeeping
aspects of the GPS-Based Frequency
Reference, rather than its very accurate
frequency outputs. They also wanted
a much larger display that could be
read at a distance. And they wanted
the display to automatically show both
local standard time and local daylight
saving time.
The GPS-corrected clock in the
March 2009 issue only added to the
interest, with more readers asking for
a GPS Digital Clock. So here it is.
It uses a microcontroller to calculate both standard and daylight saving times and display the result on a
bright 6-digit LED display. “Jumbo”
7-segment 58mm-high digits are used
for the hours and minutes indication,
while 13mm-high digits provide the
seconds indication.
In operation, the circuit is designed
to accept the “NMEA 0183” data
stream output from the external GPS
receiver module. The microcontroller
then extracts the UTC time information and uses it to work out the local
standard and daylight saving times.
You decide whether UTC, local
standard time or daylight saving time
is displayed simply by pressing one
of the three time-select buttons. The
two remaining buttons are used only
once, to initially set the UTC-local
time offset.
How it works
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
May 2009 21
22 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
2009
SC
A
K
B
D3
Q21
BC338
4.7k
E
C
26
RB1
RB2
RB3
RB4
RB5
RB6
RB7
RB0
Vdd
11,32
Rx
(RC7)
Tx
(RC6)
RC1
RD7
12,31
OSC2
OSC1
RA2
RA1
RA0
RC5
RC4
RC3
RC0
RD5
RD6
RC2
RD2
Vss
IC1
PIC 16F877A-I/P
RD3
RD4
RD1
MCLR
RD0
1
14
13
4
3
2
24
23
16
15
18
17
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
33
100 µF
16V
22pF
E
C
B
Q7
22pF
E
C
C
Q8
E
K
10k
B
22k
λ LED1
UTC
6 x 1.8k
A
Q1
10k
B
22k
(Q2-Q6
NOT
SHOWN)
B
X1 4MHz
7x10k
IN
K
A
Q14
f
470Ω
λ LED2
LOCAL
TIME
a
c
b
e
d
K
A
B
e
d
dp
c
b
λ LED3
Q16
d
E
C
g
K
A
K
1N4004
A
D2,D3: 1N4148
B
e
f
a
DISP2
+11.4V
HOURS
LOCAL
DLS TIME
E
C
g
a
DISP1
Q15
f
100 µF
16V
g 7x56Ω
C
E
(Q9-Q13 NOT SHOWN)
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK/TIME READOUT
22k
A
K
25
30
29
28
21
22
27
20
19
100nF
2.2k
GND
OUT
REG1 78L05
dp
c
b
Q17
d
E
C
g
dp
c
b
S1:
S2:
S3:
S4:
S5:
d
B
e
K
A
LEDS
E
C
g
d
Q19
f
a
DISP5
A
DISP1–DISP4 = ZD-1850
DISP5, DISP6 = ZD-1855
dp
c
b
7x 330Ω
E
B
C
BC328, BC338
DISPLAY UTC
DISPLAY LOCAL STD TIME
DISPLAY LOCAL DLS TIME
INCREMENT UTC–LOC TIME HOURS OFFSET
INCREMENT UTC–LOC TIME MINUTES OFFSET
E
C
g
a
DISP4
Q18
B
e
f
MINUTES
Q1–Q7
= BC338
Q8–Q14 = BC328
Q15–Q21 = BC338
B
e
f
a
DISP3
470 µF
25V
K
D1 1N4004
IN
OUT
78L05
E
C
g
d
Q20
f
B
e
GND
dp
c
b
a
DISP6
CON2
SECONDS
–
+
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a PIC16F877A microcontroller. This processes the NMEA 0183 serial data from the GPS receiver module (at its pin 26 input) and
drives six 7-segment LED displays in multiplex fashion. Switches S1-S3 select the time format, while S4 & S5 are used to initially set the offset from UTC time.
5
2
1
D2
+5V
470Ω
22 µF
NMEA
DATA INPUT
CON1
DB9M
S5
S4
S3
S2
S1
5x
10k
2x
100nF
+5V
dp
c
b
12V
IN
details. It employs the microcontroller
(IC1), six 7-segment LED displays, 21
transistors, five pushbutton switches
and a handful of other parts.
Virtually all of the work is done
by the programmed PIC16F877A-I/P
microcontroller (IC1). This accepts the
NMEA 0183 serial data stream from the
GPS receiver module (via CON1) and
processes the data’s GPRMC sentences
to extract the UTC time information.
From this information it works out
the equivalent local standard and daylight saving times and continuously
updates all three times in its memory.
When you select which time you want
to display (using switches S1, S2 or
S3), it displays that time continuously
on LED displays DISP1-DISP6.
The PIC runs from its own internal clock oscillator which has its
frequency set by a 4MHz crystal (X1)
connected between pins 13 & 14. The
two 22pF capacitors provide the correct loading for the crystal, to ensure
reliable starting of the oscillator.
The displays are driven by the microcontroller in multiplex fashion via
transistors Q1-Q20. Q1-Q14 are driven
by outputs RB1-RB7 and in turn drive
the display segments (a-g). Q15-Q20
drive the common display cathodes.
These transistors are switched by IC1’s
RC0-RC5 outputs.
LEDs1-3 indicate which time mode
is currently being displayed. These
LEDs are directly driven by IC1’s RA0RA1 outputs and have a common 470Ω
current-limiting resistor.
In greater detail, the NMEA 0183 serial data stream from the GPS receiver
module arrives at pin 2 of DB9M connector CON1. Because it has the same
polarity as normal RS-232C data, it’s
passed through a simple inverter stage
based on transistor Q21 and then fed
into pin 26 (RC7/Rx) of the microcontroller. This pin is the data input for
the micro’s USART module.
By the way, if you want to see what
the NMEA 0183 data stream from a
GPS receiver looks like, a sample is
shown in Fig.2. This shows three of
the sentences sent out by a typical
GPS receiver every second, at 4800bps.
The sentence which begins with
the ID “$GPRMC” is the one we are
interested in here. It’s provided by just
about all GPS receivers and contains
the UTC time data we want right “up
front” (ie, in the first field following
the ID code). In the GPRMC sentence
shown, the UTC time field is 231034,
siliconchip.com.au
Building A Self-Contained Clock
You don’t need to build the GPS-Based Frequency
Reference described in the March-May 2007 issues of
SILICON CHIP. Instead, you can derive the required NMEA
0183 data from a low-cost GPS receiver module and use
that to drive the display readout.
In particular, the GlobalSat EM-408 receiver module
is ideal for this application. This GPS module was also
used by Geoff Graham in the GPS-Synchronised Analog
Clock described in the March 2009 issue and is readily
The GlobalSat EM-408
available.
GPS module.
It’s quite easy to use the EM-408 GPS module. Accordingly, we have produced a compact add-on board containing this module which connects directly to the display unit. It can either fit inside the same case as the display
board (and be wired directly to it) or installed in a separate case and connected via
the DB9 connector.
An advantage of the EM-408 GPS module is that it has a self-contained antenna
and is extremely sensitive. As a result, it works perfectly well indoors without the
need for an external antenna and associated cabling.
The add-on GPS module will be described in Pt.2 in the June 2009 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
which indicates that the UTC time at
that instant was 23 hours, 10 minutes
and 34 seconds. The current date information is also visible near the end of
the sentence, ie, “120309”, indicating
March 12, 2009.
In this project the program running
in the PIC extracts this UTC time information from each GPRMC sentence
and saves it in memory. It then works
out the equivalent local standard time,
by adding the time offset for your time
zone (this information is initially fed
in via switches S4 & S5) and this is
also saved. And finally, it works out
the corresponding daylight saving
time and saves this as well.
Once all three times have been updated, the program in IC1 then checks
to see which time standard is currently
being displayed. It then displays this
time on displays DISP1-DISP6, driving
the display segment lines from its RB1RB7 PORTB via transistors Q1-Q14.
As indicated earlier, the individual
7-segment displays are switched on
and off in sequence via transistors
Q15-Q20. These are driven by IC1’s
RC0-RC5 PORTC pins.
As part of its operation, the program
also scans switches S1-S5. If a switch
has been pressed, it pulls its correspond input (RD0-RD4) low and this
is detected by the program. As a result,
IC1 either changes the display mode
setting (S1-S3 pressed) or changes
the stored time offset setting (S4-S5
pressed).
The new settings are then saved in
the PIC’s EEPROM memory, so they
are not lost if the power is removed.
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived from
a 12V DC plugpack supply and this is
applied to the circuit via DC connector
CON2 and reverse polarity diode D1.
The resulting 11.4V (nominal) rail is
then filtered using a 470μF electrolytic
capacitor and used to power the 7-segment displays DISP1-DISP6.
The PIC microcontroller and inverter stage Q21 operate from a +5V
rail. This is derived from the +11.4V
NMEA 0183 DATA STREAM
$GPRMC,231034,A,3356.3399,S,15108.2790,E,000.0,010.0,120309,012.6,E*63
$GPGGA,231034,3356.3399,S,15108.2790,E,1,10,1.0,57.3,M,19.6,M,,*65
$GPGSV,3,3,11,23,45,051,43,25,60,156,45,28,18,320,36*4F
Fig.2: three of the sentences sent out each second by a typical GPS receiver.
The one starting with “$GPRMC” has the UTC time information.
May 2009 23
Construction
As shown in the photos, all the dis-
LED1
e
d
CON2
LED2
12V DC IN
4004
D1
470Ω
LOCAL
BC338
d
g
100 µF
REG1
78L05
LED3
D/S TIME
dP
b
Q21
BC338
e
f
d
4148
NMEA 0183 INPUT
CON1*
DB9M
100nF
D2
c
1
BC338
g
c
22uF
b
d
10k
22k
100nF
4MHz
X1
PIC16F877A-I/P
100nF
IC1
dP
b
2.2k
c
c
Q4
BC338
* INSTALL CON1 FOR
EXTERNAL NMEA 0183
SIGNALS ONLY
DISP2
HOURSx1
56Ω
4.7k
Q16
BC338
a
d
10k
22k
e
f
SELECT
UTC
S1
e
Q11
a
56Ω
e
Q12
Q6
b
Q17
SELECT
LOCAL STD
S2
1.8k
1.8k
dP
SELECT
LOCAL DLS
S3
BC338
Q18
c
TU ODAER E MIT SP G
f
19050140
9002 ©
BC338
g
DISP3
MINSx10
d
BC338
1.8k
1.8k
1.8k
1.8k
Q5
f
Q13
Q7
d
a
g
DISP6
DISP4
MINSx1
a
c
+
Q14
BC328
g
56Ω
100 µF
S4
BC338
Q19
SECSx10
DISP5
INCREMENT
MIN OFFSET
S5
BC338
Q20
SECSx1
88
f
b
INCREMENT
HRS OFFSET
e
g
BC338
Fig.3: install the parts on the PC board as shown in this layout diagram. Make sure that all parts, including the displays, are
correctly orientated and install CON1 only if you intend deriving the GPS time signals from an external unit such as the GPS
Frequency Reference.
470 µF
UTC
Q15
BC338
DISP1
HOURSx10
c
10k
22k
BC328
a
b
56Ω
Q10
BC328
Q3
56Ω
Q9
10k
22k
Q2
dP
b
88 88
e
f
a
V21+
D3
56Ω
Q8
22k
56Ω
+
BC338
4148
10k
22k
BC328
470Ω
BC328
10k
10k
10k
10k
BC338
10k
22k
10k
10k
22k
Q1
BC328
10k
22pF
BC328
330Ω
330Ω
330Ω
330Ω
10k
10k
10k
10k
10k
22pF
That’s all there is to it. Now let’s
look at the construction.
10k
24 Silicon Chip
330Ω
330Ω
330Ω
line via 3-terminal regulator REG1, a
low-power 78L05 device. A 100μF capacitor filters the output of the regulator, with additional filtering provided
by a 100nF capacitor.
+
play circuitry is mounted on a single
PC board. This fits snugly inside the
a standard plastic enclosure with a
clear lid. The PC board measures 211
x 135mm and is coded 04105091.
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the completed display board for the GPS Clock. It’s
powered using a 12V 300mA DC plugpack.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
7
19
1
1
6
2
7
7
Value
22kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.8kΩ
470Ω
330Ω
56Ω
Fig.3 shows the parts layout. Begin
by carefully inspecting the PC board
for any etching defects. Check also
that the four corner mounting holes
are drilled to 3mm.
That done, the next step is to fit the
12 wire links and the resistors. Table
1 shows the resistor colour codes but
check each one with a digital multimeter before installing it, just to make
sure.
Follow these parts with the capacitors – first the non-polarised ceramics
and the MKT unit, then the four larger
siliconchip.com.au
4-Band Code (1%)
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange orange brown brown
green blue black brown
electrolytics. The latter are polarised,
so make sure you fit them with the polarity shown on Fig.3. Crystal X1 can
then be installed, followed by diodes
D1-D3 (watch their polarity!).
CON1, CON2 and the five mini
pushbutton switches S1-S5 are next on
the list. However, note that you will
only have to install CON1 (the DB9
connector) if you are using an external
source for the GPS time signals (eg,
the GPS-Based Frequency Reference).
If you build the add-on GPS module
to be described next month, it can fit
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange orange black black brown
green blue black gold brown
inside the same case as the display
board and be wired directly to it.
Next, install the 40-pin socket for
IC1. Make sure you fit the socket with
its “notched” end to the left, to guide
you when you later plug in the micro
itself. Regulator REG1 can then be
installed, taking care to orientate it
exactly as shown.
The 21 transistors are next on the
list. Note that these are a mixture of
BC338 NPN and BC328 PNP types, so
take care here. The BC338s are used for
Q1-Q7 and Q15-21, while the BC328s
May 2009 25
If you intend using an external source of GPS time signals, then the display board can be installed in the bottom of
the case as shown in the top photo. Holes are drilled/cut along one side (see photo above) to provide access to the
switches, DC power socket and DB9 connector.
are used for Q8-Q14. If you accidentally swap any of these transistors
you’ll get some strange results, like
missing segments or digits.
After the transistors, fit the four
Jumbo displays DISP1-DISP4, followed by the two smaller displays
DISP5 & DISP6. These are all polarised
and it’s important to fit each one with
26 Silicon Chip
its decimal point LED at lower right.
We don’t actually use the decimal
points in this design but if you don’t
fit each display correctly, it simply
won’t work.
Make sure that each display is sitting flush against the PC board before
soldering its pins.
The three indicator LEDs (LED1-
LED3) are next on the list. These are
mounted vertically, with their cathode
leads towards the bottom of the board
and their bodies about 10mm above
the board so that they’re clearly visible. Use a red LED for LED1, a green
LED for LED2 and an orange/yellow
LED for LED3.
Once the LEDs have been fitted,
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
HOLES B: 5.0mm DIAMETER
B
22
HOLE A: 10.0mm DIAMETER
(SIDE OF LOWER SECTION OF ENCLOSURE)
B
B
16
10
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
A
27.5
No adjustments are required – it’s
just a matter of feeding in the serial
data from the GPS module described
next month (or from the GPS-Based
Frequency Reference) and applying
power. You’ll need a standard DB9MDB9F serial cable to make the connection to CON1. In addition, a 12V DC
plugpack capable of supplying at least
160mA will be necessary to power the
unit (eg, a 12V DC 300mA unit).
As soon as power is applied, the
displays should begin indicating UTC
time (this can take anywhere from a
few seconds up to about 40s), with
LED1 lighting to show that this is the
current display mode. This is the default start-up mode when the unit is
powered up for the very first time.
Assuming that it’s working so far,
try pressing S2. LED2 should now
begin glowing instead of LED1 and
the displays should swing over to
NOTE: USE ONLY IF MOUNTING DISPLAY BOARD IN BASE
B
15.5
20.5
15.25
15.5
Putting it to work
34
Fig.4 shows the drilling details for
the case. Note, however, that this diagram applies only if you are mounting
the unit in the base of the case and
feeding in the GPS time signals via
CON1 (the DB9 connector) from an
external source. If you elect to build
the add-on GPS module (described in
Pt.2) and install it in the same case,
this will require a slightly different
mounting arrangement for the display
board (details next month).
As shown in Fig.4, all the holes are
along one side of the base. You have to
drill five 5mm holes for the switches
plus a 10mm hole to provide access to
the DC power socket. In addition, a 34
x 16mm cut-out is necessary to access
the on-board DB9M connector.
You can either use Fig.4 to mark out
the case for drilling or it can be copied
and temporarily attached to the side of
the case for use as a drilling template.
Use a small pilot drill to drill each
hole first, then carefully enlarge it by
stepping up the drill size. The 10mm
hole is best enlarged to size (from about
5mm) using a tapered reamer.
The square cut-out is made by drilling a series of small holes around the
inside perimeter, then knocking out
the centre piece and carefully filing
the job to a neat finish.
The PC board can now be installed
in the case. To do this, first position
24
Preparing the enclosure
four M3 x 6mm untapped spacers on
top of the four corner mounting pillars moulded into the bottom of the
enclosure. That done, you then have
to slowly lower the board into the case
without disturbing these spacers.
Note that you will have to angle
the switch side of the board down
as its lowered into the case, so that
the switch actuators go through their
holes. Once it’s in position, secure the
board in place by fitting an M3 x 10mm
machine screw to each corner position.
Fig.5 shows the details.
All that remains now is to attach
the clear top of the enclosure, using
the six screws supplied. There’s no
real need to fit the supplied rubber
sealing strip between the two halves
of the enclosure but you can fit it if
you wish.
29
all that remains to finish your GPS
time display board is to plug the
programmed PIC micro (IC1) into its
socket. Take care to plug it in with its
notched pin1 end towards the left, as
shown on the parts layout diagram.
The completed board assembly can
then be placed aside while you prepare
the enclosure.
39.5
It’s not long ago that a really accurate time display based on a caesium-beam
“atomic clock” was something only standards labs could consider. The rest of us
had to rely on time signals from shortwave or VLF radio stations, which gave only
“reasonable” accuracy.
This all changed when the US military set up its Global Positioning System (GPS).
That’s because every GPS satellite contains two caesium-beam clocks, which are
used to ensure the system’s navigational accuracy. These satellites broadcast an
updated digital UTC (Universal Time Co-ordinated) time signal every second, which
means that you can obtain an extremely accurate time display simply by decoding
the time information from a GPS receiver.
This includes the receivers used inside GPS navigator devices. As a result, many
such units can either display the time continuously or on demand.
B
Atomic Clock Standard Via GPS
Fig.4: follow this case drilling
diagram only if you intend
feeding in the GPS time signals
from an external source – see text.
May 2009 27
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04105091,
211 x 135mm
1 polycarbonate enclosure, 222
x 146 x 75mm with clear lid
(Jaycar HB-6258 or similar)
5 PC-mount 90° momentary mini
SPST pushbutton switches
(S1-S5)
1 4MHz crystal (X1)
1 PC-mount DB9M connector
(CON1) – see text
1 PC-mount 2.5mm concentric
DC plug (CON2)
1 40-pin DIL IC socket, 0.6-inch
spacing
4 M3 x 6mm untapped Nylon
spacers
4 M3 x 10mm screws, pan head
1 300mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire (for links)
Semiconductors
4 7-segment displays (CC) with
58mm high digits (Jaycar ZD1850) (DISP1-4)
2 7-segment displays (CC) with
13mm high digits (Jaycar ZD1855) (DISP5-6)
1 PIC16F877A-I/P microcontroller
programmed with
0410509E.hex (IC1)
1 78L05 +5V regulator (REG1)
14 BC338 transistors (Q1-Q7,
Q15-Q21)
7 BC328 transistors (Q8-Q14)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 5mm green LED (LED2)
1 5mm orange LED (LED3)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
2 1N4148 diodes (D2,D3)
Capacitors
1 470μF 25V RB electrolytic
2 100μF 16V RB electrolytic
1 22μF 16V RB electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester
2 100nF multilayer monolithic
2 22pF NPO disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
7 22kΩ
6 1.8kΩ
19 10kΩ
2 470Ω
1 4.7kΩ
7 330Ω
1 2.2kΩ
7 56Ω
local standard time. Initially, this will
be local standard time for eastern
Australia (EAST), because that is also
the default setting (ie, an offset of +10
hours). However, this offset can be
easily changed to suit your own time
28 Silicon Chip
10mm x M3
SCREW
LED2
LED1
LED3
(DISP1)
(DISP2)
PC BOARD
Fig.5: the display
board is mounted
inside the case on
6mm untapped
Nylon spacers
and secured
using M3 x 10mm
machine screws.
6mm UNTAPPED NYLON SPACER
MOULDED MOUNTING PILLAR
WITH THREADED INSERT
(LOWER PART OF ENCLOSURE)
zone, as detailed shortly.
For the present, just try pressing S3.
This should bump the time forward by
an hour to show local daylight saving
time. Of course, this third time variant may or may not be of any interest
to you, depending on both the time
of year and whether your region observes daylight saving. If you live in
Queensland or the Northern Territory,
for example, you won’t need to worry
about daylight saving time.
What if you live in a state or region of
Australia other than the eastern states,
or in another country altogether, where
the time zone is quite different? In that
case, how do you set the display’s offset so it will display the correct local
standard and daylight saving times for
your location?
In practice, it’s quite easy – just
briefly press switch S2 (so that the unit
shows local standard time), then press
S4 a number of times until the hours
indication is correct for your local time
(NOT daylight saving time).
You’ll find that each time you press
S4, the display will blink and the hours
indication will increment by one – up
to a maximum of 23, when the hours
display will drop back to 00 and then
begin climbing again.
In most cases, repeatedly pressing
S4 (to get the correct hours indication
for local time) is all you need to do to
set the offset from UTC. However, if
you live in places like South Australia
or the Northern Territory, where the
offset has a 30-minute component
as well, you’ll also need to press S5.
This increments in 30-minute steps,
so you’ll only have to press it once.
As a matter of interest, we’ve prepared a table (Table 2) showing the
offsets for all states and regions of
Australia plus those for New Zealand,
various countries in Asia, regions in
the USA and Canada and a few others.
Alternatively, look up your timezone
on http://worldtimezone.com
UTC-LOCAL STD TIME OFFSETS
STATE, REGION OR COUNTRY
New South Wales (except Broken Hill)
OFFSET (HOURS)
+10
Queensland, Victoria, Tasmania, ACT
+10
South Australia, NT, Broken Hill
+9.5
Western Australia
+8
Papua New Guinea
+10
New Zealand, Fiji
+12
Indonesia (West, East)
+7, +8
China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore
+8
Japan, Korea
+9
India
+5.5
Pakistan
+5
Saudi Arabia, Dubai
+3
Russia (West – East)
+3, +4 – +11, +12
South Africa
+2
France, Spain, Italy, Scandinavia
+1
United Kingdom, Portugal
0
USA and Canada (West – East)
–4, –5, –6, –7, –8
Mexico
–6
Argentina, Brazil
–3
Columbia, Ecuador, Peru
–5
For further information visit http://worldtimezone.com
Table 2: this table shows the offsets
from UTC time for various regions
throughout the world.
In most cases, the offset is simply a
certain number of hours, depending
the longitude east or west of the Greenwich meridian which is used to reference UTC. Only in a small number of
cases does the offset involve minutes
as well as hours (eg, South Australia
and the Northern Territory, where the
offset is 9 hours and 30 minutes).
Saving the settings
Each time you press any of the five
switches S1-S5, the micro not only
responds in the desired way but also
saves the current settings in its nonvolatile EEPROM memory. This means
that once set, you don’t have to reset
the offset again even if the power is
lost. The only time you do have to reset
the offset is if you move to a location
in a different time zone.
Next month, we’ll describe the addSC
on GPS module.
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03/09
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
D1 1N5404
A
+
L1 & L2: 6T BIFILAR WOUND 1MM ECW
L3 & L4: 4T BIFILAR WOUND 1MM ECW
K
9–15V
DC INPUT
1000 F
25V
10nF
–
B
560
560
K
C
Q1
D2
E
L1
B
K
Q2
A
Q1,Q2: TIP41C, ETC
1N5404
TO
D4A
C
L4 FINISH
L4 START
L2 FINISH
L1 FINISH
L2 START
L1 START
This diagram shows
how to wind the
transformer. L1 & L2
are six turns bifilar
wound using 1mmdiameter enamelled
copper wire, while
L3 & L4 are four
turns bifilar wound.
30 Silicon Chip
12V
OUTPUT
(0–1.5A)
10nF
C
MBR20100CT
E
K
7812
K
GND
IN
A
GND
OUT
12V regulated inverter supply
L3 FINISH
L3 START
47 F
–
A
B
K
FX2242 POTCORE ASSEMBLY
TO
+IN
GND
100 F
A
T1
A
A
K
L4
+
OUT
IN
D3
E
D2,D3,D6: 1N4004
A
REG1 7812
K
10nF
A
C
K
A
L3
L2
TO
D5A
D6
D4,D5
MBR20100CT
TO
Q2C
TO
+IN
TO
Q1C
When running 12V electronic devices from lead-acid
battery banks, the voltage to the appliance can vary from
below 11V with discharged batteries, to well above 14V
during charging. Many appliances will not tolerate
such a wide fluctuation and may perform poorly or be
damaged.
This step-up inverter, combined with a 12V fixed
regulator, is a good solution. Q1 & Q2, together with
the ferrite pot-core transformer, comprise a DC-to-AC
inverter. The turns ratio steps down the input voltage by
about 30%. The square wave output voltage is rectified
and added to the input DC voltage. The stepped up DC
is then fed to a 7812 12V regulator (REG1).
The specified regulator will supply 1.5A at 12V out,
from any input into the inverter between 9V and 15V,
with the inverter making up the shortfall. Current requirements are kept to a minimum by not having the
inverter supplying the total current.
By substituting a higher rated linear regulator, up to
5A can easily be supplied by this simple circuit. The
transistors can be almost any general-purpose power
type while the twin diode (D4/D5) is a high-speed device
commonly found in defunct computer power supplies.
Normal rectifier diodes can be used with a slight decrease
in efficiency. The same comment applies to D2/D3. D6
is a protection diode and any 3A type will be suitable.
By slightly modifying the turns ratio, and substituting the linear regulator, 24V devices can be operated
from a 12V supply. Laptops requiring around 18V can
be powered as well.
Dayle Edwards,
Westland, NZ. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
E
K
D4
K
A
K
A
D3,D4: 1N5822
4
D1,D2: 1N4004
E
8.2k
CONTROL & MOTOR
Q2
BC547
C
GAIN
13
10k
IC1c
SENSOR
IC1b
6
5
82k
K
LED6
LED5
LED4
K
82k
A
LED3
LED2
1M
1M
2
LED1
A
SHADOW
MAKER
LM324
11
7
82k
IC1: LM324
10
9
82k
1
IC1a
4
3
You may have seen solarpanel tracking circuits which used
light-dependent resistors (LDRs) or
opto-transistors but this circuit uses
ordinary LEDs as the optical sensors.
In this case, green LEDs were found to
be the most sensitive to sunlight and
those with a wider viewing angle were
most suited to this application.
A string of six green LEDs has its
centre point referenced to half the 12V
supply by a voltage divider consisting
of two 82kΩ resistors. The top and
bottom outputs of the LED string are
buffered by unity gain op amps IC1a
& IC1b and then fed to a mixer stage
involving op amp IC1c followed by
variable gain stage IC1d which is again
referenced to the half-supply voltage
divider.
The output of IC1d is fed to a window comparator comprising two 741
op amps. Trimpot VR3 adjusts the
dead band between the two comparators both of which drive a transistor
and relay to operate the windscreen
motor which drives the panel. Microswitches limit the drive at the end of
the solar panel’s range.
The LEDs were protected from ultraviolet with sunglass lenses while the
PC board was coated with epoxy resin
to protect it from the rain.
Jim Hewson,
Kyneton, Vic.
33k
8
12
IC1d
VR1 100k
14
ADJUST
SYMMETRY
VR2
50k
VR3
2k
ADJUST
DEAD
BAND
10k
10k
3
2
3
2
IC2
IC3
4
7
6
IC2, IC3: LM741
27k
D2
B
K
A
E
8.2k
B
7
6
27k
D1
K
A
C
Q1
BC547
RLY2
A
(LIMIT SW)
A
WINDSCREEN
WIPER MOTOR
K
(LIMIT SW)
B
C
BC547
0V
+12V
D3
RLY1
3 x LEDs
siliconchip.com.au
Solar panel
tracker uses
LED sensors
Jim He
is this mwson
onth’s
winne
Peak Atl r of a
as
Instrum Test
ent
SENSOR
PC BOARD
3 x LEDs
Above: this diagram shows how the tracker panel
is made. It uses two groups of three green LEDs
separated by an opaque sheet (or “shadow maker”).
In operation, the panel adjusts to keep both sets of
LEDs evenly lit.
May 2009 31
Circuit Notebook – Continued
REG1 78L05
+5V
OUT
10 F
GND
IN
+
LVout
–
ICSP
PROG
PLUG
6
7
1
22k
2
3
A
10k
LED1
1
Vdd
5
+
IC1
4
PICAXE P3
-08
–
P1
P0
SWITCHMODE
POWER SUPPLY
(MOBILE PHONE
CHARGER)
P2
2 SER
IN
P4
SOLID STATE
RELAY
A
A
230V AC
INPUT
N
N
HWS
HEATER
ELEMENT
~
~
(230V/25A)
3
Vss
8
S2
PICAXE-based solar
HWS boost control
This circuit was developed to
allow a short boost for a solar HWS
when the temperature is below
that required but you don’t want
to heat up the whole tank to the
thermostat setting. With the normal
connections, the thermostat keeps
the whole tank at the set temperature whether needed or not. This
wastes power if the hot water is not
required.
With this circuit, the element is
only turned on when required. Pushing the SET button S1 once or twice
in two seconds gives one or two
hour’s boost. Pushing three times in
the two seconds locks it on until the
timer is reset. Holding the button for
one second resets the timer.
Note that in the locked-on condition, the HWS thermostat still controls the tank temperature.
The LED indicates the timer condition by flashing twice if in the first
GND
K
A
K
of a 2-hour boost period or once if in
the one-hour period. This happens
every 10 seconds. In the locked-on
condition, the LED stays lit.
Rather than heating the water
in the evening for a shower in the
morning, then allowing it to cool
overnight, there is a delayed start
option. This will cause the heating
to start six hours (or programmed to
that of your choice) after the timer is
set. This is indicated by a long flash
preceding the short flashes that show
how long it is set to run for.
For delayed start, press and re
lease the delay button S2. The LED
will flash to acknowledge. The
heating time must be set within five
seconds or the delayed start is reset.
Select heating time by pressing button S1 (SET) once or twice. For the
time leading up to the start, the LED
will have a 300ms flash followed
by 100ms flashes to indicate the set
running time.
At the end of the delay period, the
long flashes will stop and normal
78L05
LED1
S1
IN
OUT
indications resume. A solid-state
relay (SSR) has been used as it can be
powered directly from the PICAXE.
A 250VAC-rated SSR is available
from Jaycar (Cat. SY-4084).
Because the circuit uses minimal
power, a phone charger is sufficient
to power it. This can be plugged into
a power point mounted in the box
with the SSR and PICAXE circuit
(assembled on Veroboard). The
main switch in the meter box can be
switched off in summer when this
circuit is not required.
Note that any modifications to
fixed 230VAC wiring to hot-water
systems can only be made by a
licensed electrician. Note also that
references to pin 3 & pin 4 in the
HWSboost.BAS listing are to the
PICAXE output pins and not to the
physical pins of the 8-pin chip.
Colin Carpenter,
Mosman Park, WA. ($40)
Footnote: the HWSboost.BAS software listing can be downloaded from
the SILICON CHIP website.
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we pay good money
for each of the “Circuit Notebook” items
published in SILICON CHIP. But there
are four more reasons to send in your
circuit idea.
Each month, the best contribution
published will entitle the author to
choose the prize: an LCR40 LCR meter,
a DCA55 Semiconductor Component
Analyser, an ESR60 Equivalent Series
Resistance Analyser or an SCR100
32 Silicon Chip
Thyristor & Triac Analyser, with the
compliments of Peak Electronic Design
Ltd – see www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in.
You can either email your idea to
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it
to PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
siliconchip.com.au
D3 1N4148
K
12
16
2.2M
Vdd
10
O11
O10
CP
O9
S1
100nF
14
D2 1N4148
11
1
68k
IC2a
3
33k
1nF
2
K
6
7
8
9
4
G
S
IC2b
Q1
BUZ71
O0
IC2c
10
9
7
8
BUZ71
2.2M
1N4148
A
D
The 4040 binary counter IC1 is
incremented each time switch S1
is pressed. As IC1 is clocked, its
outputs control the amount of current fed into a simple astable multivibrator oscillator made up of gates
IC2a & IC2b. This enables oscillation
but also controls the duty cycle of
the oscillator.
The oscillator output controls
Mosfet Q1 to drive the lamp.
On power-up, all counter outputs are low and pin 9 goes high to
feed current via diode D1 and the
68kΩ resistor to pin 1 of IC2a. This
Riding a mountain bike on a forest trail after dark requires a strong
source of light, lest a tree branch,
rock, hole or other obstacle appears
without warning. The usual bike
light employs a helmet-mounted
50W halogen lamp powered from a
12V 4Ah sealed lead-acid battery in
a backpack. However, full brightness
isn’t required all the time so this circuit provides three brightness levels
and a very low off-state current.
D1 1N4001
K
(MADE FROM OLD
EXHAUST FAN MOTOR
BY REMOVING ENDS,
ROTOR & BEARINGS)
S1
A
1M
100nF
3
SENSOR
4 5
10 F
VR1
10k
9V
BATTERY
8
IC1
2 LM358
1M
1
6
+
PIEZO
SOUNDER
–
1N4001
Reticulation
valve locator
This circuit was developed to
locate domestic 24VAC reticulation
solenoids. The valves are housed
D
G
K
3-stage dimmer for
mountain bike light
siliconchip.com.au
D
14
5
6
O1
Vss
A
5
O2
MR
IC2: 4093B
D1 1N4148
3
BATT–
33k
K
A
4
O3
LAMP–
1nF
IC1 O6
4040B O5 2
O4
BATT+
LAMP+
10 F
11
15
13
O7
IC2d
13
1
12
O8
A
A
K
in plastic enclosures but over time
had become buried under lawn or
ground cover.
S
provides an oscillator duty cycle of
about 33%. On the second count,
pins 9 & 7 are high and the oscillator duty cycle is increased to around
50%. On the third count, the output
of IC2c activates to stop the oscillator
in the high state, resulting in a 100%
duty cycle. The above four states
repeat on subsequent counts. The
lamp brightness is directly related
to the oscillator duty cycle.
The Mosfet should remain cool at
all brightness levels.
Doug Brown,
New Farm, Qld. ($40)
As shown, the circuit uses one
half of an LM358 dual op amp (IC1)
as a non-inverting comparator. It
monitors the output from a sensor
made from the field winding and
laminated iron core of an old exhaust
fan motor. The sensor picks up the
magnetic field from the solenoids
when they are energised with 24V
AC.
Trimpot VR1 (10kΩ) is used as a
sensitivity control.
The sensor was attached to a short
length of broom handle and is used
with a sweeping motion, similar to
that used with a conventional metal
locator. It was successful in locating
energised valves buried to 300mm
below the soil surface.
Alan Doust,
Erskine, WA. ($35)
May 2009 33
Circuit Notebook – Continued
+
+
3.3k
110k
IC1 TL431
FROM
POWER
SUPPLY
K
ZD1
10V
A
2.5V
15k
K
D1
1N5404
K
REF
TO
LOAD
47
A
G
A
–
S
D
–
Q1
3.6M
FIG.1
S
+
510
2.2k
110k
IC1 TL431
FROM
POWER
SUPPLY
K
B
D
+
G
47
Q2
BC558
REF
ZD1
10V K
E
Q1
C
A
D1
1N5404
K
TO
LOAD
A
2.5V
15k
22k
A
–
–
1.2M
FIG.2
Q1
ZD1
A
K
1N5404
A
TL431
K
K
B
REF
A
Over-voltage protection
for DC loads
The popular Triac or SCR crowbar
circuit has long been used for overvoltage protection. An over-voltage
triggers the crowbar, shorting out
the supply. The fuse then blows or
the supply current limits to protect
the load.
This works but then you have to
D
BC558
E
G
C
D
S
switch off the supply and maybe
replace the fuse to restart. This can
be a real nuisance, particularly if you
have a badly behaved power supply
with a surge at power on.
The circuit in Fig.1 cuts power
to the load and automatically reconnects when the over-voltage
condition has passed, ie, no fuses
are blown and there is no need to
reset the circuit when the overload
condition has passed.
IC1 is a TL431 adjustable shunt
regulator used here as a voltage level
detector. With the resistor values
shown, the supply is cut off at about
21V. For other voltages, replace the
110kΩ with a value calculated to
give 2.5V at TL431's reference pin.
The 3.6MΩ resistor applies positive
feedback and hence hysteresis to
speed switching.
The N-channel Mosfet can be
any with suitable voltage, current
and on resistance (RDS(on)) ratings.
It may need a heatsink, depending
on the load current and RDS(on). For
example, an IRF540 with an RDS(on)
of .044Ω should have a heatsink at
currents more than 5A. However, an
IRF1405 with an RDS(on) of .0053Ω
should be OK for currents in excess
of 10A without a heatsink. The Mosfet’s voltage rating should exceed
the input voltage (including spikes).
D1 is only required to suppress
the back-EMF from inductive loads.
If your supply voltage is less than
about 10V, use a logic-level Mosfet
such as the FDP7030L (available
from Worldwide Electronic Components).
If you want a common negative
rail between the power supply and
load, then use the circuit in Fig.2.
The P-channel Mosfet could be an
IRF9540. It should have a heatsink
at currents above about 3A. In this
circuit, the input voltage should be
limited to well below the ratings
of the TL431 (37V) and the Mosfet.
Very often, you can find the TL431
IC voltage reference and its clones in
switchmode power supplies in PCs
and monitors. The uPC1093 is an
equivalent to the TL431. They are
available from Futurlec and Rockby
Electronics: www.futurlec.com and
www.rockby.com.au
Peter Reed,
Fullarton, SA. ($45)
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies of SILICON CHIP safe with these
handy binders
REAL
VALUE
AT
$13.95
PLUS P
&
P
Available Aust, only. Price: $A13.95 plus $7 p&p per order (includes GST). Just
fill in and mail the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9939 2648; or call
(02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
34 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
+5V
10k
10k
100pF
C
B
SPEED
SET
VR1
10k
E
B
E
A
K
GAIN SET
VR2 50k
Q3
BC557
OUTPUT
1k
B
BC547, BC557
10k
10k
C
E
Q4
BC547
B
K
E
Preamplifier for
speed controller
This circuit was designed to
fix a problem that occurs with a
particular motor speed controller
used in battery-operated scooters.
This controller uses a potentiometer
feeding into a microprocessor. As is
common with speed controllers of
this type, the centre position of the
pot defines the motor neutral or off
state. Clockwise or anticlockwise
rotation of the pot then signals the
controller to set the motor speed in
forward or reverse direction, respectively, in proportion to the angle of
rotation.
The problem was that the pot was
somewhat worn and consequently
the speed control was more than
usually touch-sensitive at the centre
wiper position. The slightest vibration of the pot or even electrical noise
induced externally into the circuit
was liable to set the motor creeping
backward or forward, even with the
pot in the neutral position.
siliconchip.com.au
10k
10k
1N4148
A
1k
D1
1N4148
Q2
BC557
C
100pF
E
C
Q1
BC547
10k
B
10k
C
One design constraint, not unusual for this kind of controller, is
that the maximum angle of rotation
of the wiper is limited mechanically to about 20% of the theoretical
maximum of 300° or so of rotation.
Furthermore, this particular controller employs an unconventional and
expensive pot with a custom taper
(rotation versus resistance) to compensate for the reduced mechanical
rotation.
Replacing the worn pot with one
identical to that of the original to fix
the over-sensitivity problem was not
practical because suitable replacement pots are not readily available
in Australia. One solution was to
replace the pot with a standard linear type and insert a CMOS op amp
gain stage between the pot and the
controller to preserve the full speed
range. This worked but adjusting the
pot for neutral position was critical,
even with the new pot.
The accompanying discrete component circuit solved the problem
nicely. This has a linear input-out-
put response except near the centre
of its input range, where the circuit
gives a constant (flat) output (zero
gain response) over an input range
of approximately ±0.5V. The latter
was more than enough to counter
the effects of mechanical vibration
and electrical noise; adjustment
for neutral position was no longer
critical.
The circuit works as follows: the
emitters of input transistors Q1 and
Q2 are biased by the 1kΩ and 10kΩ
resistor network so that they are
offset with respect to the input by
approximately 250mV. Although
strictly not necessary for circuit operation, diode D1 ensures that the Q1
and Q2 can never be simultaneously
turned on, regardless of the speed
potentiometer (VR1) setting.
When VR1’s wiper is within about
400mV of half-supply voltage, all
four transistors are turned off, because the base-emitter voltages applied to Q1 and Q2 are less than the
input turn-on voltages for these transistors. In this state, the output sits
at mid-supply voltage as determined
by the voltage divider network of
1kΩ and 10kΩ resistors.
Q1 begins to conduct when the
input voltage goes more than about
400mV above the mid-point voltage.
When this happens, Q3 turns on as
well and so Q1 & Q3 form a simple
2-transistor amplifier. Conversely,
Q1 is turned off and Q2 turned on
when the input voltage drops to less
than about 400mV below the midpoint voltage, and so now transistors
Q2 & Q4 take over.
The feedback network involving
trimpot VR2, combined with relatively high transistor gain, ensures
a linear response for input voltages
above and below 400mV of halfsupply voltage, until the output
stage saturates.
The accompanying graph shows
the typical output characteristic.
The output stability (freedom from
spurious oscillations) is good and
the output range is essentially the
full rail-to-rail voltage. The current
drawn by the circuit is 700μA or so
at 5V input, which is less than would
be drawn by a typical dual CMOS op
amp package.
Herman Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW. ($50)
May 2009 35
Hig
Fu
Spe
by
JOHN CLARKE
O
will tend to “cog”, caused by erratic firing of the Triac within
ur last Motor Speed Controller, published in Febthe Drill Speed Controller, so that the motor receives interruary 2009, utilised a simple phase-control circuit
mittent bursts of power. An electric motor that is cogging
which works reasonably well with most universal
badly is virtually useless and the only cure is to increase
motors. However, there are some applications where a
the speed setting – and this rather defeats the purpose if
wider and smoother control range is required.
you want to operate at low speed.
One shortcoming of the February 2009 design is that
This new SILICON CHIP Motor Speed Controller overcomes
the maximum speed from the motor when under speed
these drawbacks. The design does not use phase-control
control is significantly reduced. So for an electric drill
circuitry but uses switch-mode power supply techniques
that normally runs at say 3000 rpm, the maximum speed
to produce an outstanding controller for universal brushmight be reduced to around 2200 rpm. This is inevitable
type motors.
with a controller circuit that effectively half-wave-rectifies
By the way, before we go further we should point out
the 230VAC mains waveform to give a maximum output
that virtually all mains-powered power tools and applivoltage of around 160V RMS.
ances use universal motors. These are series wound motors
The second drawback of the February 2009 design has
with brushes.
to do with low speed control. While the circuit does alAnd most power tools will
low your drill or other appliance to run at quite
do a better job if they have a
low speeds, the result
speed control. For example,
leaves much to be Features:
m
electric drills should be
desired. There isn’t
imu
max
to
of motor speed from near zero
slowed down when using
much torque avail- • Full control
larger drill bits as they make
able and the speed • Speed regulation under load
a cleaner cut.
regulation is poor. This
on
rati
ope
or
mot
ed
ooth low-spe
Similarly, it is useful to be
means that if you’re • Sm
to 2300W
able to slow down routers,
operating the drill at a • Rated for universal motors rated up
jigsaws and even circular
low speed and you put
• Over-current protection and limiting
saws when cutting some
a reasonable load on
materials, particularly plasit, its speed will drop • Fuse protection
tics. The same applies to
right away or it may
e
cas
ast
diec
• Rugged earthed
sanding and polishing tools
stall completely.
n filter
and even electric whipper
Worse still, the motor • Interference suppressio
36 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
gh Performance
230VAC 10A
ull-Wave Motor
eed Controller
This full-range Motor Speed Controller will give smooth
control from near zero to full speed on electric drills,
routers, circular saws, lawn edgers, food mixers – in fact,
any appliances with universal (brush-type) motors.
snipers are less likely to snap their lines when slowed down.
Phase control
Before we continue, we should explain what we mean
by phase control so we can illustrate the benefits of the
new circuitry.
As you know, the mains (AC) voltage closely follows a
sine wave – it starts at zero, rises to a peak, falls back to
zero, then does the same thing in the opposite direction.
This repeats over and over – and does it 50 times each
second (50Hz). A motor connected to the mains uses all
of the energy it can take from each “cycle” and it runs at
its maximum speed.
But what if you were able to stop the motor receiving
energy until, say, half way through each cycle? Obviously,
with less energy available to power it the motor would not
run as fast. If you were able to vary the time during each half
cycle when power was applied, you would have a variable
speed control. This then is the basis of “phase control”
Allow power very early in the cycle and it runs fast.
These waveforms illustrate the operation of a typical phase-controlled SCR. In Fig.1 (left) the SCR is triggered fairly late in
the positive half-cycle, so the motor voltage is just 143V RMS and it runs at a relatively low speed. Compare this with Fig.2,
right, where SCR is triggered earlier in the half-cycle and the RMS value rises to 163V. Hence the motor runs faster.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 37
This series of scope screen grabs show the voltage waveforms applied to the motor at progressively higher speed
settings. Fig.3 (above) is the lowest setting with very short
pulses from the IBGT delivering just 92V RMS to the motor.
Fig.4 shows a significantly higher speed setting (167V RMS)
with the IGBT being switched on with longer pulses. Each
time the IGBT turns off it causes a significant voltage spike
due to the back-EMF produced by the motor inductance.
Allow power very late in the cycle and it runs slowly.
The term “phase control” comes about because the timing of the trigger pulses is varied with respect to the phase
of the mains sine wave.
It doesn’t just work with some types of motors – it has
also been the basis of incandescent lamp dimmers and
even heater controls for many decades (it doesn’t work on
most forms of fluorescent nor compact fluorescent bulbs).
The oscilloscope waveform of Fig.1 shows the chopped
waveform from a phase-controlled SCR circuit when a motor is driven at a slow speed.
Fig. 2 shows the waveform from an SCR speed control at
a higher setting. The motor has 163V applied to it while at
the low setting (Fig.1) the motor has 143V applied.
These examples show only the positive half of the
mains waveform being used, as is the normal case with a
phase- controlled SCR circuit. This automatically limits
the amount of power which can be delivered to the motor
– one half cycle is wasted. So this means that in a phasecontrol circuit the range of speed control is severely limited
at the top end.
For the motor to run at full speed, it would need to be
fed with both the positive and negative half-cycles of the
50Hz mains waveform. Normally this is not possible with
an SCR circuit (which is, effectively, a controlled diode
which therefore only conducts in one direction). While it
is possible with a Triac, it is difficult to achieve without
a complex circuit.
Another big problem with conventional phase-controlled
circuits is that the trigger pulse applied to the Triac or SCR
is very short and if this corresponds with the instant when
the brushes hit an open-circuit portion of the commutator, no current will flow and consequently, the motor will
miss out on a whole cycle of the mains waveform. This
problem is more critical at low speed settings and is one of
the reasons for the “cogging” behaviour referred to earlier.
Incidentally, the sparks you see when you look into a
universal (brush-type) motor are mostly caused by brushes
passing through an open-circuit section of the commutator – a typical power drill might have a dozen or more of
these which keep the motor windings separate.
Speed regulation
Fig.7: These waveforms show the interaction of the
triangle waveform and the speed voltage. The triangle
waveform at the top is compared to the speed voltage,
the horizontal voltage intersecting the triangle wave. The
resulting lower trace is the pulse width modulation signal
from the comparator. The comparator output is fed to the
gate driver IC2 and Q2 and Q3 that then drives the IGBT.
38 Silicon Chip
Most phase-controlled SCR speed control circuits incorporate a form of feedback that is designed to maintain the
speed of the motor under load. When the motor is loaded,
the back-EMF (electromotive force) produced by the motor
drops and the circuit compensates by triggering the SCR
earlier in the mains cycle. This helps to drive the motor
at the original speed.
In practice, the back-EMF generated by most series motors when the SCR is not conducting is either very low or
nonexistent. If there is any back-EMF it is produced too
late after the end of each half-cycle to have a worthwhile
effect on the circuit triggering in the next half-cycle.
Pulse-width modulation
As we mentioned, the new SILICON CHIP speed control
siliconchip.com.au
Similarly, Fig.5 shows an even higher speed setting with
now 208V RMS being delivered to the motor by the IGBT.
Motor speed would already be higher than that capable of a
phase-controlled circuit and shows how good this circuit is!
Fig.6: here the IGBT is virtually full-on delivering maximum
voltage to the motor. However, the RMS voltage reads lower,
due to the fact that the spikes which were present in the
earlier waveforms are no longer there to confuse the scope.
circuit uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) and a different feedback method for speed regulation that effectively
solves the problems above associated with phase control.
Fig.3 and Fig.4 shows the voltage waveforms applied to
the motor at high and low speed settings. What happens is
that we rectify the mains voltage and then chop it up at a
switching rate of about 1.25kHz using a high-voltage IGBT
(Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor). For the high-speed
setting the pulses applied to the motor is relatively wide
(Fig.3) while at the low speed setting, the pulses are very
narrow (Fig.4).
There are 12 pulses during each half-cycle, so the motor
receives a more continuous stream of current compared
to when driven via phase control. As a result, the motor
operates very smoothly over the whole of its speed range.
For speed regulation the circuit does not rely upon
back-EMF from the motor. Instead, it monitors the current
through the motor and adjusts the pulse width to maintain
the motor speed. If the current rises, indicating that the
motor is under load, then the pulse width is widened to
maintain motor speed.
FUSE & FILTER
F1, L1, L2
230V
AC IN
Block diagram
Fig.8 shows the basic circuit arrangement. The 230VAC
input waveform is fed through a filter and full-wave rectified. The resulting positive-going waveform is fed to one
side of the motor. The other motor terminal is switched
on and off via IGBT Q1.
Switching of the IGBT is under the control of comparator
IC1b, which compares the speed setting required (as set by
VR1) against a triangle waveform generator. If the speed
voltage is high relative to the triangle waveform, then the
MOTOR
CURRENT
FULL WAVE
RECTIFIER
K
+
A
–
D1
TRIANGLE
GENERATOR
IC1a
COMPARATOR
IC1b
SPEED
CONTROL
MOTOR
C
GATE DRIVER
IC2, Q2, Q3
Q1
G
SNUBBER
E
VR1
OVERCURRENT
Q4
AMPLIFIER
IC3b
A
CURRENT
SENSE
R1
SAMPLE & HOLD
IC4
D2
K
IC3a
REFERENCE
OVER CURRENT
COMPARATOR
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: the basic circuit arrangement of the Motor Speed
Controller. The 230VAC input is full-wave rectified and fed
to one side of the motor, while the other motor terminal
is switched on and off via IGBT Q1. A conventional PWM
circuit using IC1, IC2 & IC3, controls Q1.
May 2009 39
40 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
N
SC
33k
12
VR1
1k
8.2k
–
SPEED
10k
LIN
~
10
9
8
IC1b
1M
A
K
6
7
10k
1
22k
7
IC3: LM358
K
FEEDBACK
GAIN
VR2
1M
A
4
IC3b
100k
B
6
10k
5
9
325V
15
IC2e
12
IC2b
4
IC2d
IC4
4066B
4
5
A
K
100nF
7
14
3
G
1nF
10k
R1
D1
STTH3012W
+15V
ZD2
15V
1W
10
10 F
C
E
E
C
SAMPLE & HOLD
100nF
100nF
10
100k
10k
Q3
BC327
B
B
Q2
BC337
GATE DRIVE
8 IC2f
1
1M
270
0.394V
10k
14
11
CURRENT
6 AMPLIFIER
5
3
2
1nF
(15.8A
LIMIT)
Q4
BC547
IC3a
OVER-CURRENT
D2
COMPARATOR
8
1N4148
E
C
7
IC2c
+15V
MOV1
275V
0V
OVER CURRENT
DETECTOR
220pF
470 F
16V
4.7k
100nF
250VAC
X2
PWM COMPARATOR
470
10 F
1k
ZD1
15V
1W
K
D3
1N4004
A
IC1: LM319
IC2: 4050
+15V
4.7k
5W
4.7k
5W
+
10A/230V MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
ALL COMPONENTS AND WIRING IN THIS
CIRCUIT OPERATE AT MAINS POTENTIAL.
DO NOT OPERATE WITH CASE OPEN –
ACCIDENTAL CONTACT COULD BE FATAL!
SAFETY WARNING!
100nF
4.7k
L2
L1
~
BR1 35A/600V
Fig.9: the circuit uses a 50A 1200V avalanche-protected IGBT (insulated gate bipolar
transistor) as the switching element to the load. It is switched at 1.2kHz so that there
are about 12 on and off cycles for each half-cycle of the 50Hz 230VAC mains supply.
2009
3
IC1a
11
470k
1W
TRIANGLE GENERATOR
5
4
100k
10nF
250VAC
X2
CASE
F1 10A
100k
18nF
100k
IEC MALE
INPUT
CONNECTOR
E
A
230V AC
INPUT
E
N
G
A
STTH3012W
C
C
K
K
A
K
ZD1, ZD2
A
1N4148
A
1N4004
E
FGA25N120ANTDTU
K
E
B
BC327, BC337, BC547
X2
CASE
E
470
1W
Q1
FGA25N120
ANTDTU 47nF
IGBT 250VAC
A
CURRENT
SENSE
0.025
5W
C
A
K
230V AC
OUTPUT
3-PIN SOCKET
comparator will produce wide pulses at its output. Conversely, a lower speed voltage will reduce the pulse width.
This operation can be seen in the scope waveforms of
Fig.7. The triangle waveform at the top is compared to
the speed voltage, the horizontal voltage intersecting the
triangle wave. The resulting lower trace is the pulse-widthmodulation signal from the comparator. The comparator
output is fed to the gate driver (IC2 and transistors Q2 and
Q3) that then drives the high voltage IGBT (Ql).
Diode D1 is a fast-recovery type to conduct the motor
current when Q1 is switched off. The snubber across Q1
prevents excessive voltage excursions across it.
Resistor R1 monitors the current flow through the motor when Q1 is on and the resulting voltage generated is
sampled using switch IC4. This sampling occurs whenever
Q1 is on.
Excessive current drawn by the motor is detected by
siliconchip.com.au
transistor Q4, used as an over-current detector to switch
off the IGBT gate drive if current exceeds about 48A.
IC3b amplifies the voltage from R1 and applies it to the
speed pot. This operates such that an increase in motor
current, as the motor is loaded and slows down, leads to
an increase in the output from IC3b. This in turn increases
the speed setting from VR1, resulting in an increase in the
voltage applied to the motor.
IC3a also monitors the voltage produced from R1 via IC4
and compares it against a reference voltage. If the voltage
from R1 exceeds the reference threshold, IC3a’s output
goes low and reduces the speed pot voltage via diode D2.
This reduces the voltage applied to the motor and provides
current limiting. Current limit is set at 15.8A.
Circuit description
The circuit for the Motor Speed Controller is shown in
May 2009 41
Q1
FGA25N120ANTDTU
D1
STTH3012W
: N OITUA C
ST NE N OP M O C LLA
TA OLF SK CART D NA
E GATL OV S NIA M TA A
ZD2
15V
47nF
250VAC X2
470 1W
10
N
A
R1
F1 10A
100nF
250VAC X2
1nF
10nF
250VAC X2
10 F
10k
Q2
470k 1W
Q3
4.7k 5W
10k
4.7k 5W
100nF
22k
10 F
470 F
ZD1
1M
4.7k
10k
270
10k
100k
4.7k
1k
IC2 4050B
1k
220pF
100k
100nF
(-)
~
1M
100k
470
L1
L2
VR2
Q4
+
IC3
LM358
18nF 100nF
D3
4004
4148
29050101
D E EP S R O T O M
RELL ORT N O C
MOV1
~
100k
1nF
10k
100k
N
IC4 4066B
0.025
100nF
15V
Fig.10: the complete
component overlay
for the Full-Wave
Speed Controller.
Be very careful not
to mix up the diodes
and zeners – they
often look very
similar. It’s also a
good idea to use IC
sockets, just in case!
IC1 LM319
1M
33k
CON1
8.2k
1RV
Fig. 7. It comprises four ICs, three low current transistors,
output when changing levels.
several diodes, resistors and capacitors plus the high voltThe pin 7 output of IC1b drives buffers IC2c and IC2d.
age IGBT, Q1.
IC2c drives three paralleled buffers, IC2b, IC2e & IC2f. These
IC1a is a comparator that forms the triangle waveform
in turn drive emitter-followers Q2 and Q3 to provide a high
generator. It is wired as an oscillator where the 18nF cacurrent drive capability to charge and discharge the gate
pacitor at pin 5 is charged and discharged via the 33kΩ
of the high voltage IGBT Ql. The gate of Q1 is protected
resistor connected to the output at pin 12. The triangle or
from excessive drive voltage using with ZD2, a 15V zener
ramp waveform across the capacitor has an amplitude of
diode. The high voltage can be impressed on the gate via
about 5V peak-to-peak.
capacitance between the gate and collector when the IGBT
Comparator IC1b compares the triangle waveform at
switches off.
pin 10 with the speed voltage at pin 9, as set by VR1. VR1
Several circuit features combine to ensure that the IGBT
is part of a voltage divider with a 1kΩ resistor connecting
can safely switch high levels of current through the moto the +15V rail and an 8.2kΩ resistor to 0V. The speed
tor load.
voltage from VR1 is filtered with
First, there is a snubber
a 10μF capacitor to prevent any
network comprising a 470Ω
Warning!
sudden changes in level and
resistor and 47nF capacitor
this voltage is monitored by the
connected in series across the
d controller
(1) The entire circuit of this motor spee
inverting input (pin 9) of IC1b via
IGBT’s source and drain. Seclly lethal. Do not
floats at 230VAC – and is potentia
a 1kΩ resistor.
ond, there is the fast recovery
g.
doin
t you are
build it unless you know exactly wha
The 1MΩ resistor between pin
diode D1. Third, there is a
IT
LE
WHI
UIT
DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE CIRC
9 and the pin 7 output provides
275VAC metal oxide varistor
and do not operate
IS PLUGGED INTO A MAINS OUTLET
positive feedback to give a small
(MOV) connected across the
without its lid on.
the circuit outside its metal case or
amount of hysteresis in the comoutput of the bridge rectifier.
parator action. This is to prevent
These measures combine to
ors
mot
ction
(2) This circuit is not suitable for indu
oscillation of the comparator
damp any spike voltages that
– see text.
or shaded pole motors used in fans
42 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Full Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller
1 PC board, code 10105092, 112 x 142mm
1 metal diecast case, 171 x 121 x 55mm
1 front panel label, 168 x 118mm
1 powdered iron core, 28 x 14 x 11mm (L1,L2)
1 single switched mains power outlet
1 10A IEC mains lead
1 IEC male chassis connector with mounting holes
1 3-way PC-mount screw terminal block with 5.08mm
spacing (CON1)
8 6.35mm PC-mount male spade connectors with
5.08mm pin spacing
8 6.35mm insulated female spade quick connectors
with 4-6mm wire diameter entry
2 5.3mm ID insulated quick connect crimp eyelets with
4-6mm wire diameter entry
1 knob
1 16-pin DIP IC socket
2 14-pin DIP IC sockets
1 8-pin DIP IC socket
2 3AG PC-mount fuse clips
1 10A 3AG fast blow fuse (F1)
2 M4 x 10mm screws (Earth connections)
2 M4 x 15mm screws (GPO Mounting)
1 M4 x 20mm countersunk screw (BR1 mounting)
5 M4 nuts
2 M4 star washers
2 M3 x 12mm countersunk screws (for IEC Connector)
2 M3 x 15mm screws (for Q1 and D1)
4 M3 nuts
3 3/16” x 6mm screws (PC board to case)
4 stick-on rubber feet
8 100mm cable ties
2 TO-3P Silicone insulating washers
1 300mm length of blue 10A mains wire
1 300mm length of brown 10A mains wire
1 300mm length of green/yellow 10A mains wire
1 100mm length of 0.8mm tinned copper wire
1 1.1m length of 1mm enamelled copper wire
1 45mm length of black 5mm heatshrink tubing
1 45mm length of red 5mm heatshrink tubing
1 15mm length of green 5mm heatshrink tubing
would otherwise occur every time the IGBT switched off.
Current monitoring
R1 is a used to monitor the current flow through the
motor and IGBT, Q1. Transistor Q4 directly monitors the
current via a voltage divider comprising two 10kΩ resistors in series. At about 48A there is about 1.2V across R1
and the base of Q4 is at 0.6V. The transistor conducts and
pulls the IC1b comparator output low to disconnect drive to
the IGBT. Thus Q4 provides for transient current limiting.
Voltage developed across R1 is also fed through a low
pass filter consisting of a 10kΩ resistor and 1nF capacitor to one side of IC4, a 4066 analog switch. This is the
sample-and-hold circuit and IC4 is switched on to sample
the voltage across R1 each time the IGBT is switched on.
IC4’s gate signal comes from comparator IC1b and is buffered by IC2d. The sampled signal from R1 is stored using
siliconchip.com.au
1 45mm length of white 3mm heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 LM319 dual comparator (IC1)
1 4050 hex CMOS buffers (IC2)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC3)
1 4066 quad CMOS analog switch (lC4)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 FGA25N120ANTDTU NPN 50A 1200V TO-3P IGBT
(Q1) (Farnell cat 149-8965)
1 STTH3012W 30A 1200V TO-247 ultrafast recovery
diode (D1) (STMicroelectronics)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D2)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D3)
2 15V 1W zener diodes (ZD1,ZD2)
1 35A 600V bridge rectifier (BR1)
1 S14K275 275VAC metal oxide Varistor (MOV1)
Capacitors
1 470μF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 10μF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 100nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
4 100nF 63V MKT polyester
1 47nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
1 18nF 63V MKT polyester
1 10nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
2 1nF 63V MKT polyester
1 220pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 1MΩ
1 470kΩ 1W
5 100kΩ
1 33kΩ
1 22kΩ
5 10kΩ
1 8.2kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
2 4.7kΩ 5W
2 1kΩ
1 470Ω 1W
1 470Ω
1 270Ω
1 10Ω
1 low ohm shunt resistor 0.025Ω, 1%, 5W (OAR5 –
R025F1) (TT Electronics)
1 10kΩ 25mm linear potentiometer (VR1)
1 1MΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2) (Code 105)
the 100nF capacitor and discharged over a 100ms period
with a 1MΩ resistor.
The sampled voltage from IC4 is fed to two op amps,
IC3a & IC3b. IC3b amplifies the voltage by about 100 when
VR1 is set to maximum and 3.2 when set to minimum. IC3b
acts to vary the DC level fed to comparator IC1b from VR1
and thereby compensates for speed variations in the motor.
IC3a acts as a comparator, comparing the sampled voltage
from R1 with a 394mV reference voltage at its pin 3. If the
current through R1 rises above 15.76A, the voltage across
the resistor equals the 394mV reference and the output of
IC3a goes low and pulls pin 9 of IC1b low via diode D2 and
a 470Ω resistor. This has the effect of greatly reducing the
motor drive voltage and so it limits the current.
Power for the circuit is derived directly from the 230VAC
mains. Fuse F1 protects against shorts while the 10nF
capacitor in conjunction with L1 & L2 prevents switching
May 2009 43
INSULATING PAD
Fig.11: the complete wiring diagram of the Motor Speed Controller. Follow
this wiring exactly – including the earthing detail. It is very important that
the case and lid be separately earthed, as shown here. Note also that all
parts of the circuit, including the terminals of VR1, float at 230VAC.
Inset at right is the mounting arrangement for both D1 and Q1, which mount
on the inside of the case with insulating washers. Their legs must be kinked
outwards slightly so they sit flush on the case wall.
M3 NUT
Q1 (IGBT)
& DIODE D1
KINK IN LEGS
PC BOARD
15mm
x M3
SCREW
CASE
INSULATING
WASHERS
Q1
FGA25N120ANTD
D1
STTH3012W
CASE EARTHING:
M4 x 10mm SCREW WITH
EYELET CONNECTOR,
LOCKWASHER & NUT
! N OITUA C
ST NE N OP M O C LLA
SK CART DRA O B CP D NA
LAIT NET OP S NIA M TA TA OLF
15V
A
N
A
M3 SCREW
& NUT
IEC MAINS
INPUT SOCKET
N
19050101
D E EP S R O T O M
RELL ORT N O C
+
4148
CABLE
TIE
CABLE
TIES
L1
M3 SCREW
& NUT
CABLE
TIE
CABLE
TIE
L2
CAUTION!
ALL COMPONENTS
AND PC BOARD
TRACKS FLOAT
AT MAINS VOLTAGE
(-)
CON1
~
~
1RV
L1: 12 TURNS
–
~
~
+
BR1
(MOUNTED ON
SIDE OF CASE)
CABLE TIES
LID EARTHING:
M4 x 10mm SCREW WITH
EYELET CONNECTOR,
LOCKWASHER & NUT
CABLE TIES
VR1
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING
(LID OF CASE)
L1 & L2 BOTH WOUND
USING 1mm ENAMELLED
COPPER WIRE ON 28 x 14 x 11mm
IRON POWDERED TOROID
44 Silicon Chip
A
L2: 12 TURNS
Fig.12 (inset left):
winding details
for the input filter
choke. Note that
L1 and L2 are
wound so that their
flux cancels in the
toroid core.
OUTLET MOUNTING
BOLTS AND NUTS
(M3 x 10mm)
E
3-PIN
OUTLET
N
siliconchip.com.au
A close-up photo of the input (IEC socket) wiring, fuse,
choke and bridge rectifier. All mains leads are terminated
in quick-connect terminals.
Similarly, a close-up of the IGBT (right) and fast recovery
diode (left). These devices do not require an insulating bush
but definitely do need an insulating washer, as seen here.
artefacts from the IGBT and motor being radiated back to
the mains wiring.
BR1 is a bridge rectifier with a 600V 35A rating. The
bridge provides the circuit with the positive full-wave rectified mains voltage and this is lightly filtered using a 100nF
250VAC capacitor. Power for the low voltage circuitry is
derived via two series 4.7kΩ 5W resistors, diode D3 and
the 15V zener diode ZD1. A 470uF capacitor across the 15V
zener smooths the DC while diode D3 prevents the capacitor from discharging when the mains voltage falls to below
15V every half cycle. The result is a regulated 15V supply.
quite hot to the touch.
When inserting diode D2 and D3 and zener diodes ZD1
and ZD2, take care with their orientation and be sure to place
each type in its correct place. D1 is installed later.
We used IC sockets for the ICs. Be sure to install these the
correct way around with the notch facing the direction shown
on the overlay. Transistors Q2-Q4 can now be inserted, again
taking care to place each in its correct position.
Capacitors can be installed next. The accompanying
capacitor table shows the various codes that are used to
indicate the capacitance values of the polyester capacitors.
The electrolytic capacitors must be oriented with the correct polarity.
L1 & L2 are windings wound on a single powdered iron
toroidal core as shown in Fig.12. Each winding is wound
using 12 turns of 1mm enamelled copper wire with the
shown direction.
While the exact number of turns is not critical, it is important that both windings have the same number of turns
and that they are wound in the directions as shown. The
wire ends can be soldered to the PC board after they have
been stripped of insulation using some fine abrasive paper,
or a sharp hobby knife. After soldering, secure the toroid to
the PC board with two plastic cable ties. These wrap around
the core and through holes in the PC board. (It is important
not to secure the toroid with lengths of wire; these could
make a shorted turn around the toroid).
Fuse F1 is mounted in fuse clips that are installed into
the PC board as shown. Clip the fuse into the clips first (lugs
Construction
The Motor Speed Controller is constructed on a PC board
coded 10105092 and measuring 112 x 142mm. It is housed
in a diecast case measuring 171 x 121 x 55mm. The PC board
has cut-outs to match the shape of the case.
Begin construction by checking the PC board. There should
not be any shorts or breaks between tracks. If there are any
problems, repair these as necessary.
Similarly, if the cutouts in the sides of the PC board have
not been shaped, they should be cut and filed before any
components are assembled.
A large semicircular cutout is required on both the long
sides of the board. Also you will need to round off the corners of the board. Make sure the PC board fits into the case
before starting assembly.
Following the overlay diagram shown in Fig.10, begin by
inserting and solde ring in the wire links and then the resistors, using the accompanying table for
Resistor Colour Codes
the colour codes. The two 5W resistors
should be inserted so that they stand a
No. Value
4-Band Code(1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
millimetre above the PC board to allow
2 1MΩ
brown black green brown
brown black black yellow brown
cooling. When the Drill Speed Control1 470kΩ yellow violet yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
ler is operating, each resistor will be
5 100kΩ brown black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
dissipating about 2.7W so would run
1 33kΩ
orange orange orange brown
orange orange black red brown
1 22kΩ
red red orange brown
red red black red brown
Capacitor Codes
5 10kΩ
brown black orange brown
brown black black red brown
Value
μF
IEC
EIA
value
code
code
1 8.2kΩ grey red red brown
grey red black brown brown
100nF 0.1μF
100n
104
2 4.7kΩ yellow violet red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
47nF .047μF
47n
473
2 1kΩ
brown black red brown
brown black black brown brown
18nF .018μF
18n
183
2 470Ω
yellow violet brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
10nF
.01μF
10n
103
1
270Ω
red
violet
brown
brown
red violet black black brown
1nF
.001μF
1n0
102
1 10Ω
brown black black brown
brown black black gold brown
220pF NA
220p
221
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 45
What Motors Can Be Controlled?
We’ve noted elsewhere in this article that the vast majority of
power tools and appliances use so-called universal motors. These
are series wound motors with brushes. But how do you make sure
that your power tool or appliance is a universal motor and not an
induction motor? As we also said before, induction motors must
not be used with this speed controller.
One clue is that most universal motors are quite noisy compared
to induction motors. However, this is only a guide – it’s certainly
not foolproof.
In many power tools you can easily identify that the motor has
brushes and a commutator – you see sparking from the brushes
and that settles the matter. But if you can’t see the brushes, you
can also get a clue from the nameplate or the instruction booklet.
OK, so how do you identify an induction motor? Most induction
to the outer ends of the fuse) then insert them into the PC
board and solder in position – this hopefully ensures that
you don’t solder them in the wrong way around.
Solder in the eight 6.4mm PC-mount spade connectors to
the PC board for the mains wiring connections, along with
the 3-way screw terminal connector for the potentiometer
connecting wires.
D1 and Q1 are the last components to be soldered to the
PC board. Solder them in so their metal flanges are towards
the edge of the PC board and their full-length leads extending about lmm below the PC board.
motors used in domestic appliances will be 2-pole or 4-pole and
always operate at a fixed speed which is typically 2850 rpm for
a 2-pole or 1440 rpm for a 4-pole unit. The speed will be on the
nameplate. Bench grinders typically use 2-pole induction motors.
Note that this speed controller must NOT be used with power
tools, etc, which already have a speed controller built into the
trigger.
One final point: if you are using this controller with a high power
tool such as a large circular saw or 2HP router, it will not give the
same kick when starting.
Because of the current limiting, the motor will take a few seconds to come up to full speed. Normally though, if you want to
use the appliance at full speed, it is better not to use the Speed
Controller at all.
All that is left are bridge BR1, diode D1 and IGBT Q1, all
of which mount on the inside walls of the case when the
PC board is in place.
Mounting the hardware
First of all, mark out the hole position for the IEC connector and earth screw in the end wall of the case. The IEC
connector mounts in the horizontal centre, about 6mm down
from the top.
As you can see in our photographs, about 1mm of the
top of the end-wall channel is left when the hole is made.
Another view of the completed motor speed controller, very close to same size. The front panel artwork is printed
overleaf, or it can be downloaded from siliconchip.com.au.
46 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The IEC hole is made by drilling a series of small holes
around the perimeter of the desired shape, knocking out the
piece and filing to shape.
Insert the PC board into the case and mark the mounting
hole positions for diode D1, IGBT Q1 and bridge rectifier BR1.
Note that the leads for D1 and Q1 must be kinked outward
slightly so that the metal flange of each device is parallel to
and in contact with the side of the case.
Drill out the holes for these three components Holes are
also required in the lid for the GPO, VR1 and the earth terminal. All holes must be deburred on the inside of the cas
e with a countersinking tool or larger drill to round off the
sharp edge of the hole and in the case of D1 and Ql, prevent
punch-through of the insulating washers.
Attach the PC board to the case with the 3/16” screws. Note
that we do not use a screw in the corner where BR1 mounts.
BR1 effectively holds the PC board in place here. Secure D1
and Q1 to the case with a screw, nut and insulating washer.
The arrangement for this is shown in the inset in Fig.11.
After mounting D1 and Q1, check that the metal tabs of
the devices are isolated from the case by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. The meter should show a very
high resistance measurement between the case and any of
the diode and IGBT leads.
The complete wiring diagram is shown in Fig.11. The
earthing details of the case are most important since the
IGBT, fast recovery diode D1 and potentiometer, VR1, are
all at mains potential yet are attached to the case. If the
insulating washers or the insulation of the potentiometer
were to break down, the case would be live (ie, at 230VAC)
if it was not properly earthed.
For the same reason, the case lid must also be separately
earthed, also as shown in Fig.11.
The bridge rectifier (BR1) is secured to the case with a
4mm screw and nut. It does not require an insulating washer
between its body and the case.
All mains wiring must be done using 10A mains-rated
(ie 250V) wire. Wiring for the potentiometer must also be
mains rated but it does not need to be 10A rated. The IEC
connector must be wired using the correct wire colours
with brown for the Active, blue for the Neutral and green/
yellow striped wire for the Earth. Use quick-connectors
for the mains wiring connection to the PC board connectors. Wires to the IEC connector need to be insulated with
Troubleshooting the Motor Speed Controller
If the speed controller does not work when you apply power,
it’s time to do some troubleshooting.
First, a reminder: all of the circuit is connected to the 230V
AC mains supply and is potentially lethal. This includes the
tabs of Dl and Ql, the terminals of potentiometer VRl – in fact,
all other parts. Do not touch any part of the circuit when it is
plugged into a mains outlet. Always remove the plug from
the mains outlet before touching or working on any part
of the circuit.
If the live circuit must be worked on, it must be operated
via a 1:1 mains isolation transformer. We’re only saying that
because it is safer but we’d still prefer you didn’t do it.
Before going any further, give you PC board another thorough check (using a magnifying glass?). Kit suppliers tell us
that at least 99% of problems are due to wrong or swapped
components, right components in the wrong way around and,
of course, the “biggie”: poor soldering (or even completely
missed solder joints).
If you are 110% sure your Speed Controller isn’t suffering
from any of these maladies, it’s time to get more technical!
Fortunately, there is a safe way to check most of the circuit
and that is to operate it from a low voltage (12V) DC supply.
Naturally, before you remove the lid you would have already
disconnected the 230V mains lead (don’t just turn it off, unplug it!). The supply is connected with the positive connecting
to the anode of diode D3 and the negative connecting to the
anode of ZD1 (the anodes are the ends opposite the striped
end on the diode body).
Before you connect the supply, measure it to make sure it
is not exceeding 14V – if it does, you’re liable to blow up the
15V zener diode.
With power applied, a multimeter connected with the negative lead to the negative supply can be used to test voltages.
Firstly, check that there is 11.4V on pin 1 of IC2 and pin 11 of
IC1. IC3 should have 11.4V on pin 8. Similarly pin 14 of IC4
should also have 11.4V.
Voltage on the wiper of VR1 should be adjustable from
siliconchip.com.au
4.86V to 10.79V or similar by rotating the potentiometer to its
full extremes. The same voltage range should be seen at pin
9 of IC1a.
Pin 7 of IC3a should be close to 0V. Pin 1 of IC3b should
be at about 9V or more.
With the meter still set to read DC volts, the triangle wave
can be measured and should provide approximately a half
supply reading, in this case about 5V. If your meter can read
a AC volts at 1kHz, then the meter can be set to read ACV. The
reading will be around 1.5ACV.
Similarly, when the multimeter is set to read DC volts the
pulse width drive can be checked. On the output of IC1a at pin
7, the DC volts should be adjustable from 0V to close to 11V
when VR1 is altered from minimum to maximum. The same
voltage range should be available at the pin 4, pin 12 and pin
15 output of IC2. A slightly lower voltage range will be available
on the gate of Q1.
If the gate voltage remains at 0V, then suspect a damaged
IGBT, a shorted ZD2 or open circuit 10Ω resistor.
Measuring the resistance between IGBT pins is a simple
way to check it. If there is a short circuit between collector and
emitter, or if the gate is shorted to the emitter, then the IGBT
is faulty.
Diode (D1) operation can be checked using the diode test
on your multimeter. In any case there should not be a short
circuit measured between anode and cathode.
Be sure to remove the 12V supply and replace the lid before
reconnecting to the mains.
Incidentally, do not try to monitor the waveforms with an
oscilloscope unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Ideally it needs with a scope with true differential inputs or a
mains isolation transformer. The waveforms in Fig.7 can only
be measured using a low-voltage DC supply, as detailed above.
You must not connect the earth terminal of a scope
probe to any part of the circuit.
If you do, you are likely to cause severe damage to the circuit
and possibly to the scope as well!
May 2009 47
heatshrink tubing covering all exposed metal.
For the earthing, solder two earth wires from the IEC
connector with one terminating to the earth eyelet and the
other running to the power outlet earth terminal. Another
green/yellow earth wire runs between the earth connection
on the power outlet and the earth eyelet on the lid. The earth
eyelets are secured with M4 screws, a star washer and nut.
Wire up the potentiometer, again using 250VAC rated
wire. The reason for voltage rating this is to ensure that in
the worst-case scenario and a mains-voltage-carrying wire
lets go inside the case (eg, it unsolders due to heat), a bare
end contact with one of the pot wires will not allow mains
to “punch through” lesser-rated wire insulation.
Finally, hold the wiring in place using cable ties as
shown – also to minimize the possibility of loose wires
contacting something they shouldn’t.
Note that the Active and Neutral wires running to the
GPO socket should not be allowed to lie near to the potentiometer wiring. Instead have these wires lie on the Q1
side of R1 when the lid is closed. Failure to observe this
wiring arrangement may cause the controller to power the
motor with sudden bursts of speed.
This is to minimise the possibility of the high voltage
switching signal on the Neutral wire being induced into
the potentiometer wiring.
Testing
Before you power up the circuit, insert the ICs into their
respective sockets, taking care with their orientation. Set
SILICON
CHIP
trimpot VR2 to its mid-position – this setting should give
good performance with most motors.
Now, check all of your wiring very carefully against the
overlay and wiring diagram. Also check that the case and
lid are connected to the earth pin of the power socket.
If you are satisfied that all is as it should be, screw the
lid onto the case.
Do not be tempted to operate the Drill Speed Controller
without the lid in place AND screwed in position – it’s
not worth the risk.
The easiest way to test the circuit operation is to connect
a load such as an electric drill. Apply power and check
that you can vary the drill speed with VR1. Some motors
may require adjustment of VR2 for best speed regulation,
which must be done on a trial-and-error basis. Disconnect
power from the mains wall outlet (or unplug the IEC connector) before removing the lid, adjust VR2 very slightly
and replace the lid.
In practice, if VR2 is adjusted too far clockwise, the
motor will tend to be overcompensated when loaded and
will actually speed up. It may even hunt back and forth
between a fast and slow speed. If this happens, readjust
VR2 anticlockwise for best results.
If you are using a drill for example, at fairly low speed,
the motor should not slow down by much as you put a
reasonable load on it.
At the risk of sounding repetitive, remove the plug from
the mains outlet before making any changes to VR2 and
replace the lid before reconnecting power.
SC
POWER OUTLET MOUNTING HOLES
www.siliconchip.com.au
4mm
230V
INPUT
4mm
CUTOUT FOR POWER OUTLET
(60 x 40mm)
GREY: POWER OUTLET POSITION
230V 10A
FULL WAVE
MOTOR SPEED
CONTROLLER
Fig.13 : same-size artwork for the front panel. A photocopy
of this can also be used as a drilling/cutting template.
48 Silicon Chip
10mm
x
SPEED
For universal (brush-type)
(brush-type)
motors up to 10A/2300W
nameplate rating
3
Do NOT use on induction
or shaded-pole motors
x: 3mm pot locating hole drilled from lid underside
– does not need to go all the way through lid.
siliconchip.com.au
Shop 2, 102 Sunnyholt Rd
S O L A R & W E AT H E R S TAT I O N S
Be Your Own Weatherman
Anyone with a interest in the weather
will love this station. It has an unbeatable
range of features, it is great value, and
best of all has no need for messy wiring.
The system measures and displays inside
and outside temperature, air pressure,
rainfall, humidity, wind speed, direction,
and chill factor.
$
Wireless Temperature &
Soil Moisture Monitor
Monitor the moisture content in the soil at up to three
locations. One remote sensor is included and you can add up
to two extra sensors. A must for the mad-keen gardener or
for small-scale agriculture projects. Additional sensors
available separately.
149
Cat: XC-0293
• Requires 4 x AAA batteries • 433MHz, range of 50m
• High/low temperature alert • Min/max temperature reading
• Celsius or Fahrenheit
• Receiver Size: 68(W) x 76(H) x 25(D)mm
Sensor Size: 66(W) x 195(H) x 25(D)mm
• Requires 7 x AA batteries
• Indoor display unit:
140(W) x 170(H) x 40(D)mm
Limited Stock
Solar Powered Garden
& Security Lighting
$
• 10 hours illumination
• Auto daylight switch off
Cat SL-2716
$
59 95
149
$
Cat: SL-2716
549
Cat: MP-4554
Cat: SL-2714
• Power output: 15 watts per panel
• Nominal voltage output: 14.5VDC
• Outputs: 3V, 6V, 9V, 12V, 5V USB
• Panel dimensions: 925(L) x 315(W) x 22(D)mm
30 LED Spotlight
with PIR Sensor
• 20,40 or 90 second
illumination PIR controlled
• PIR sensor range 15m
• Automatic daylight
switch off
Cat SL-2718
Recommended battery: 15 - 45Ah (e.g. Cat. SB-1698 & SB-1699)
$
99
Solar Powered Water Pump
Cat: SL-2718
Solar Power Battery Chargers &
Controllers with LCD
With these units, you have total control over battery charging and power usage. The LCD shows the system
status and 3 LEDs at a glance show battery charge status, load status & solar panel connection. Microprocessor is programmed with 3-stage charging algorithms and pulse width modulation duty cycles of 0 100% to provide optimum charge conditions & battery life. Three models:12V/20A, 12V/30A and 24V/20A.
• LED indication of battery levels
• Display of system status: Charge current - Battery voltage - Battery capacity
• Bulk, absorption & float charge status
$
• Overload and short circuit protection
12V 30 Amp
Cat: MP-3722
• Overvoltage and reverse polarity protection
• Rated charge/load current: 30A
• System voltage: 12V
• 150(L) x 85(W) x 50(H)mm
12V 20 Amp
• Cat. MP-3722
• Rated charge/load current: 20A
• System voltage: 12V
$
24V 20 Amp
• 150(L) x 85(W) x
• Rated charge/load current: 20A
50(H)mm
Cat: MP-3724
• System voltage: 24V
• Cat. MP-3129
• 150(L) x 85(W) x 50(H)mm
$
• Cat. MP-3724
Run your outdoor aquarium, garden pond or water feature from the sun.
Each comes with its own solar panel, cable and pump assembly ready to
go and has some electronic smarts built in to regulate the delivery of
power during cloudy periods.
• 900mW
• Operating voltage: 7V
• Power consumption: 0.9W
• Flow rate: 140 litres/hour
• Solar panel: 188(L) x 155(W) x 25(H)mm
• Pump assembly: 42(L) x 39(W) x 8(H)mm
Also available 2.4W Solar Pump
Cat. ZM-9202 $99.95
$
199
189
169
Cat: MP-3129
Wind Generators
These new super-compact 300W units are a technological step up from our
other two models. They feature moulded, compact, efficient blade design, are
lightweight, have neodymium magnets, and the charge controller is built into the
generator head. They also feature slip rings to avoid cable breakage. These 300W
units will start spinning at just 2.5m/s wind speed, and will produce their rated power at
12m/s (max power 500W at 15m/s). Available in 12V and 24V outputs, all parts fit into one
box weighing just 17kg - making it convenient to transport.
• Rated Power: 300W
300W 12VDC
300W 24VDC
• Max Power: 500W
UP
to
• No of Blades: 3
$
$
500W
• Blade Material: ABS
Peak
Cat: MG-4532
Cat: MG-4530
• Included: generator, blades,
tail, hub, nose cone
• Set of 3 Spare Blades (Cat. MG-4534) $76.95
679
2
Cat: QM-7206
Just add a battery and you have a complete solarpowered lighting or power setup. With 45 watts output,
it's enough to run auxiliary lights on a farm shed or
holiday house. A variety of output options including
a 5V USB port and a 12V cigarette lighter
socket. Panels, mounting hardware, lights,
cable, junction box and charge controller
included.
30 LED Spotlight
• 10 hours illumination
• Automatic daylight
switch off
Cat SL-2714
34 95
45 Watt Solar Lighting /Power Kit
This solar powered security lighting range can be installed anywhere sunlight falls during the day
without the hassle of having to find a mains power supply. The lights use high-powered LEDs and
the built in solar panels charge the internal batteries. Three styles available.
11 LED Spotlight
$
Additional sensor/transmitters also available:
Cat. QM-7207 $17.95
679
*No mounting
hardware,
poles or guide
wires included.
49 95
Cat: ZM-9200
Powertech
Solar Panels
These monocrystalline panels are more efficient than polycrystalline
panels and are as strong and tough as the better known brands, but at a
more attractive price. Sizes range from 5 watts to a massive 175 watts.
5W
10W
20W
65W
80W
120W
175W
Cat. ZM-9091
Cat. ZM-9093
Cat. ZM-9094
Cat. ZM-9096
Cat. ZM-9097
Cat. ZM-9098
Cat. ZM-9099
$115
$175
$279
$639
$875
$1,280
$1,750
20 YEAR
WARRANTY
Note: Units may vary from pictures shown
All savings are based on original recommended retail prices.
POWER SUPPLIES
Switchmode Battery
Charger 6-12V 1A
$10
$
49 95
Modified Sine Wave Inverters
Take your creature comforts with you when you go bush
or on any road trip as these inverters will produce mains
power from your vehicle's battery. A 150W inverter
will run some laptops, lights, small TVs and recharge
batteries. Inverters 300W and above will also run
power tools, fluorescents & larger style TVs.
Cat.
MI-5102
MI-5104
MI-5106
MI-5107
MI-5108
ANSMANN Battery Charger
Voltage
12VDC to 230VAC
12VDC to 230VAC
12VDC to 230VAC
24VDC to 230VAC
12VDC to 230VAC
Price
$54.95
$84.95
$155.00
$149.00
$249.00
$
(0.8A / 3.8A, IP65 rated)
A truly versatile charger suitable for wet cell, gel and
AGM SLA batteries from 1.25Ah to 120Ah.
Computer controlled for optimum performance
and rain proof as well.
119
84 95
Cat: MB-3604
• Short circuit and reverse polarity protection
• Anti-spark protection
• 1.8m charging cable, with
interchangeable fly leads
• Dimensions: 175(L) x 60() x 45(H)mm
7.2V Ni-MH RC Batteries
High capacity, high
current discharge Ni-MH packs
for radio control cars. Fitted with
standard "Tamiya" type plug.
Compact Switchmode
Lab Power Supplies
SB-2312
SB-2314
$34.95
$49.95
10A Motor Speed
Controller Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip
Magazine February 2009
Drill speed controllers are nothing new, and in
spite of the availability of variable speed power
tools, there is still a need for a stand-alone motor
speed controller. Apart from power tools, it's often
handy to be able to control the speed of other 240V
motors. Suitable for brush motors up to 10A. Complete kit
includes screen-printed case, PCB and all specified components.
You'll need a garden-variety IEC lead as well.
$
64 95
Cat: KC-5477
Replace your incandescent lamps with LED style globes! LEDs are much more
efficient and less fragile than filament globes. LEDs mounted on standard bayonet,
miniature Edison screw (MES), and MR16 halogen bases provide excellent
replacements in many applications, consuming less power and
lasting much longer. See our website for individual details.
Cat. ZD-0300
Cat. ZD-0302
Cat. ZD-0304
Cat. ZD-0306
Cat. ZD-0310
149
Cat: MP-3800
$
MP-3802
• Voltage output: 0-16VDC
• Current output: 25A (continuous)
199
Cat: MP-3802
4 & 6 Way Powerboards with Filter & Surge
These powerboards offer a choice of 4 or 6 outlets, all filtered and surge protected. Guard your
expensive Hi-Fi, TV, or VCR etc. against damage.
• Surge and Spike protected mains outlets • 10 amp resettable overload circuit breaker
• Cable length: 1 metre • Colour: White
6 Way
4 Way
$
$24.95
$24.95
$26.95
$26.95
$12.95
10 95
$
Cat: MS-4051
15 95
Cat: MS-4055
IR Non-Contact Pocket Thermometer
MR16 LED Downlights
These lamps utilise three 1 watt Nichia 083B LEDs to produce up to an amazing
300 lumens of light output from just 5 watts of total power consumption. Perfect as
a drop-in replacement for MR16 halogen downlights, retail display lights or remote
solar/wind/battery power systems where efficiency is paramount.
• Rated voltage: 6 - 24V • LED life: 40,000 hours
• Beam angle: 30° • Dimensions: 50(Dia) x 40(D)mm
Two models available:
300 Lumen White - ZD-0356
• Colour temp: 5500K • Brightness: 300 lumens
250 Lumen Warm White - ZD-0358
• Colour temperature: 3600K • Brightness: 250 lumens
Compact size, high current, variable output and fan cooling
make these the ideal power supply for your bench. They are
protected against thermal overload and short circuit and will
display a warning LED in the event of a fault condition. Current
and voltage are displayed on separate backlit analogue meters.
• Ripple: <9mV at rated load • Output regulation: <1%
• Dimensions: 148(W) x 162(D) x 62(H)mm
Two models available:
$
MP-3800
• Voltage output: 0-24VDC
• Current output: 15A (continuous)
LED Globes
6V MES 6 LEDs
12V Bayonet 6 LEDs
6V MES 12 LEDs
12V Bayonet 12 LEDs
4.5V Bayonet 3 LEDs
Power
150W
300W
400W
400W
600W
12V 5-Stage Car &
Motorbike Maintenance Charger
State-of-the-art desktop charger capable of charging
up to 8 batteries at the same time. It provides superfast charging & individual charge control for each
battery. Features an auto-diagnosis with automatic
start of a refreshing process if required, & will detect &
discharge damaged cells before fast charging. This charger is a
favourite with photographers who need to recharge multiple
batteries for DSLR battery packs or flash units.
$
Backed by a 3 year warranty.
Charges the following batteries:
Cat: MB-3554
• 1 to 6 AAA or AA • 1 to 4 C or D • 2 x 9V
Two types available:
2,000mAh R/C Battery
3,300mAh R/C Battery
MAINS POWER
ON THE GO
Cat: MB-3601
A 5-step, fully automatic switchmode
charger for 6V and 12V lead-acid
batteries, it's a complete battery
maintenance system. Fully
automatic, it's able to monitor and
charge your battery as required
without risk of damage or
degradation. It is also able to
recover partially sulphated batteries as
well as diagnosing and rescuing drained batteries.
• Overload, short circuit, open circuit, and reverse polarity protected
• Microprocessor controlled.
• For full specifications logon to our website. Was $59.95
$
59each95
Take quick and accurate temperature measurements of any surface without touching it.
Handy for the house or garage. LCD displays temperature in Celsius
and acquires a reading in less than two seconds.
• Accuracy: ±1% • Range: -50 - 220°C • Handy pocket clip
• Batteries included • Size: 85(L) x 15(Dia)mm
$
Cat: QM-7219
Probe Thermometer
Suitable for lab, chemistry and industrial applications. It
measures in Celsius and Fahrenheit and has a stainless
steel probe and protective cap. Batteries included.
• Auto power-off and low battery indication
• Data hold • Range: -50 - 270°C. (-58 - 518°F)
• Resolution: 0.1°C (1°F) • Accuracy: 1.5%
• Dimensions: 185(L) x 36(W) x 19(H)mm
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
49 95
$
34 95
Cat: QM-7217
3
ACCESSORISE YOUR HOME THEATRE
5.8GHz Matrix AV Sender with Remote
Allows you to watch or record one source in one room while you transmit a different source
to another room. You can watch, record or transmit a composite video source or RF from
your TV in any combination. It transmits on the 5.8GHz band for minimal interference and
spare receivers are available for transmitting to multiple rooms.
• 5.8GHz
• Remote control for transmitter and receiver
• Transmission range: 100m
• Sensitivity: -80dBm
• Video input/output:
• RCA or SCART
• Power supply: 9VDC, 400mA
Component Video
Cat 5 Extender
Component video extender which allows transmission
up to 100 metres over economical Cat 5 cable. Also
equipped with an infra-red extender which allows
you to control channels and settings from the
receiver's end. Supports up to 1080p.
Mains plugpack included for receiver.
NEW
TECHNOLOGY
• Interface:
5.8GHz Wireless Receiver
also available AR-1883 $99
$
3 x RCA component
UTP: RJ45
• Bandwidth: DC - 60MHz
• Dimensions: 74(L) x 64(W) x 28(H)mm
229
Cat: AR-1882
IR Remote
Control Extender
$
49 95
Extend the range of your IR remote control up to
100m. Great if you want to keep your home theatre
components out of sight or make absolutely sure the
kids turn the TV off when they're supposed to. Mains
plugpacks for transmitter and receiver included.
$
349
For full specifications see catalogue or website
• Power requirements: 12VDC 30mA max
• Dimensions: 64(W) x 73(D) x 29(H)mm
We know that our HDMI leads are just as good as any on the market, which can cost up to
10x more. But don't take our word for it, Choice Magazine did a full review that included our
Concord HDMI cables - see www.choice.com.au
and search for "Digital AV Cables Rip-Off" for the
full online article. We offer two ranges of HDMI
cables: a high quality "Concord" range, and an
economy "Digitech" range - all feature gold plated
connectors and are certified HDMI v1.3b and are
HDCP compliant.
WQ-7415 Economy
1.5m $24.95
WQ-7416 Economy
3.0m $34.95
WQ-7400 Concord
1.5m $44.95
WQ-7402 Concord
3.0m $54.95
Cat: AR-1707
4
Cat: QC-3685
Transmit crystal-clear audio and video signals over
long distances via economical Cat 5 cable. You
can also use it for extending the range of
your remote control. The signals can be
transmitted up to 300 metres on UTP.
HDMI Cables - Don't Get Ripped Off!
16 95
199
Cat 5 AV Extender Balun
with IR Remote Sensor
• HDCP compliant • Supports up to 1080p HDTV
• Dimensions: 430(W) x 255(D) x 50(H)mm
$
$
Extra receiver units: QC-3686 $89.95
Cat: AC-1687
• Volume, channel up/down,
power on/off, TV/AV etc.
• Battery included
• Size: 108(H) x 48(W)
x 10(D)mm
Cat: QC-3683
• Power requirements: 12VDC <at> 1.2A
• Transmitter: 158(L) x 67(W) x 32(H)mm
• Receiver: 73(L) x 64(W) x 28(H)mm
Switch between up to four HDMI, component (YUV), S-Video or composite video sources,
and up to four optical digital, coax digital or stereo audio sources. Each of the four inputs
provides for component video, composite video, S-video along with stereo audio and digital
audio. Any analogue input can be output to HDMI. A clear backlit LCD tells you
what's connected to what and you can pre-programme the names of your
devices for easy identification. Mains plugpack included, remote unit
requires 2 x AA batteries.
All the basic functions
you need for the spare TV.
149
Add up to four AV zones and pipe the video signals
down Cat 5 cable at distances up to 300m. You
simply connect a composite video source
with stereo audio to the transmitter, then
connect up to four Cat 5 cables to transmit
signals via UTP wherever you need them.
The kit comes with one transmitter and one
receiver and you simply add extra receivers as you need
them. A very cost-effective way to maximise video transmission
for schools, lecture halls, conference centres etc.
4 Input AV Switch with Remote
Basic Function
Remote
Control
$
4 Zone Cat 5 AV Extender
Cat: AR-1817
• Frequency: 433MHz
• Dimensions: 100(Dia) x
120(H)mm (including antenna)
Lengths up to 10m available.
Audio Video
Extenders
$
129
Cat: QC-3681
Mini USB SD Card Reader
SD cards are the most popular storage devices for
digital cameras and just about every other device
that uses portable storage. Low cost and convenient
size so you can take this card reader anywhere
and it has a handy SD slot on the side..
$
8 95
Cat: XC-4756
• USB 2.0 • Compact size
• No drivers required
DIGITECH
Universal
Learning Remote
AC Control
Pre-programmed with thousands of devices, and
able to learn and control up to 8 different devices
including the air conditioning. It can also be
programmed with two macro functions and will
retain all your data even if the batteries go flat.
• Backlit LCD
• Low battery indicator
$
95
• Audible reminder
Cat: AR-1726
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
• Size: 200(L) x 55(W) x 26(D)mm
Limited stock
37
LCD Touch Screen
Universal Remote
Control
Controls up to 16 devices: TV, Satellites,
Cable TV, VCR, DVD, Tape, Hi Fi's, CD Players,
Radios, MP3 Players, Amplifiers, Digital
Recorders and other Audio devices.
• 60(W)x210(H)x25(D)mm
• Power: 4 x AAA batteries
required (SB-2413)
Limited Stock
$
49 95
Cat: AR-1727
All savings are based on original recommended retail prices.
ACCESORISE YOUR HOME THEATRE
Stainless Steel Wallplates
Finished in attractive stainless steel, these cost-effective wall plates have all the popular audio
connectors, or use a blank to customise your own. Ideal for hi-fi installations, home studios,
home theatre or just a neat solution to running a pair of extension speakers to another room.
Keystone Wallplates
Flush type plates to accept our standard keystone
110 jacks. Fits standard Australian electrical
switch plate installation hardware and screw
centres, making it perfect for easy flush
installation on plasterboard or other
cavity walls.
• Supplied unloaded
without keystone jacks.
• Dimensions 70(W) x
114(H) x 6(D)mm.
Blank Plate
with 83mm mounting hole centres.
PS-0550
$3.95
for a single XLR socket (sockets not included) PS-0551
$4.50
for two XLR sockets (sockets not included)
$4.95
$6.95
$9.95
$6.95
$9.95
$6.95
$9.95
$6.95
$9.95
Pre-punched Blank
Pre-punched Blank
PS-0552
PS-0553
PS-0554
PS-0555
PS-0556
PS-0557
PS-0558
PS-0559
PS-0560
Single 3P Female XLR Socket
Double 3P Female XLR Sockets
Single 3P Male XLR Socket
Double 3P Male XLR Sockets
Single 6.5mm (1/4”) Locking Socket
Double 6.5mm (1/4”) Locking Sockets
Single 4 pole Speakon Socket
Dual 4 pole Speakon Sockets
Single White
Double White
Triple White
Quad White
6 Way White
• Tilt angle - 0 or 5°
• Spacing from wall: 38mm
• Up to 45kg, 23” - 37" TVs
• Cat. CW-2826
• Tilt angle -15 to +15°
• Swivel angle: -40 to +40°
• Up to 80kg & 60" TVs
• Spacing from Wall: 118-300mm
• Cat. CW-2824
$
From
$
2 50
Due mid May
A range of inserts to cater for computer and audio / video
applications. They fit standard 110 keystone wallplates and
allow you to configure your installation any way you like.
From
$
3 95
No longer is it an expensive exercise to impress your friends and neighbours with the chic minimalist
styling of a wall mounted LCD or Plasma TV. Our range of universal
LCD and plasma TV brackets will be perfect for most installations,
suiting panel sizes from 23" up to 60" and weighing up to 80kg and the prices will leave plenty of room in the budget for a new set of
AV cables and wall plates to complete the installation.
• Suitable for Plasma/LCD TVs from 23" - 60"
• Safety lock for security (CW-2822 and CW-2826 only)
• VESA standard compliant • Solid steel construction
• Mounting hardware and instructions included
Three types available:
Heavy Duty LCD/Plasma TV
Swivel Wall Bracket
$2.50
$2.50
$2.75
$2.90
$2.95
Inserts for Keystone Wallplates
Heavy Duty LCD/Plasma TV Wall Brackets
Light Duty LCD/Plasma
TV Wall Bracket
YN-8050
YN-8052
YN-8054
YN-8056
YN-8058
Heavy Duty LCD/Plasma
TV Wall Bracket
• Tilt angle -15 to +15°
• Spacing from wall: 80mm
• Up to 80kg & 60" TVs
• Cat. CW-2822
179
Cat: CW-2824
F81 to F81 - White
BNC to BNC - White
RCA to RCA Socket - White
RCA to RCA - Red
RCA to RCA - Yellow
S-Video to S-Video
HDMI to HDMI - Red
USB to USB - Red
4mm Banana to Banana - Red
4mm Banana to Banana - Black
PS-0761
PS-0763
PS-0764
PS-0765
PS-0767
PS-0769
PS-0771
PS-0773
PS-0774
PS-0775
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$3.95
$14.95
$9.95
$2.95
$2.95
From
$
2 95
Due mid May
In-Ceiling Weatherproof
4" Speakers
Now you can get great sound through
ceiling speakers in an outdoor
location. This 100mm speaker
features a polypropylene cone and
aluminium grille making it the
perfect unit for indoor/outdoor areas.
Being waterproof, it has almost ulimited
uses around barbecue areas, swimming
pools, warehouses and even boats.
Installation is simple and secured with
stainless steel screws. The compact size
means they are not overly visible once installed.
$
99 Pair
Cat: CS-2449
$
69
95
$
Cat: CW-2826
Cat: CW-2822
USB MIDI Interface Cable
Connect any MIDI device to your computer: keyboards, controllers,
instruments, sound cards, samplers, drum machines etc
Plug and play, no software or drivers required.
MIDI in and MIDI out connectors.
• Cable length 2m
99
95
$
39
95
Cat: XC-4934
• Impedance: 8Ω • Power handling: 20WRMS
• Frequency range: 65Hz - 17kHz
IP65
• Sensitivity: 88dB • Face plate: 165mm
Weatherproof
• Cut-Out: 137mm (approx)
2.1 Surround Sound Speaker System
Plasma and LCD TVs look great but their speakers are usually far too small to produce really
good sound. This excellent speaker overcomes this and provides a much more satisfying
sound. Two RCA inputs and a 3.5mm stereo line-in are provided so the speaker can accept
signals from three devices such as an TV, FM/AM radio, CD player, or other sound source.
Includes wireless remote control.
• 40 watt total power output
• S/N >70dB
• 20Hz to 20kHz frequency response
• External sub-woofer output
• Dimensions: 800(W) x 140(D) x 96(H)mm
Was $149
$
Limited stock
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
$15
134
Cat: CS-2466
5
PUMP UP THE VOLUME
12”
Active
Subwoofer
4 x 100WRMS Full Range Car Amplifier
This is a very efficient amp designed to drive full range speakers & is able to
produce 550W bridged.Variable high & low pass filters & variable bass boost.
• Power <at> 4Ω 14.4V: 130WRMS x 4
• Power <at> 2Ω 14.4V: 190WRMS x 4
• Power <at> 4Ω 14.4V: 380WRMS x 2
$
This will truly
bring your car
stereo to life.
With 200WRMS
on tap from a
class AB amp
feeding straight to a 12 driver in a
ported enclosure, it provides an amazing distortion-free
powerful bass reproduction. A straightforward, simple
to install design, it is stylishly finished in a resistant
vinyl and urethane plastic. A belt
harness is also supplied to secure
$
the unit in the boot of your car.
Cat: CS-2271
For full specs see website.
449
Cat: AA-0456
5 Channel Full
Range Car Amplifier
This award winning amplifier has four full range
channels and a subwoofer channel plus a host
of features including adjustable gain and variable
high-pass filters.
$
599
269
Cat: AA-0458
• Power <at> 4 ohm 14.4V: 60WRMS x 4ch + 225WRMS x 1 ch
• Power <at> 2 ohm 14.4V:90WRMS x 4ch + 340WRMS x 1 ch
• Power Bridged <at> 4 ohm 14.4V:180WRMS x 2 ch + 340WRMS x 1 ch
Bass Shaker
4 Ohm 25WRMS
Literaly feel the bass! Works like a
speaker, but instead of a cone it
has a steel mass that transmits
a jolt of energy to give an
interactive feel to your home
cinema or sound system.
Use single or multiple units to
give bass a new meaning.
See website for full specifications.
Was $39.95 Limited stock
1000WRMS Linkable
Monoblock Car Amp
Monstrous, eardrum-perforating power. You also
get variable bass boost, adjustable phase shift,
low pass filter and master/slave operation.
Optional remote bass gain controller.
$
• Power <at> 1Ω mono 14.4V: 1000WRMS
• Power <at> 2Ω mono 14.4V: 600WRMS
• Power <at> 2Ω linkable, dual mono 14.4V: 1800WRMS
469
Cat: AA-0460
Component Car Speakers
with Ribbon Tweeters
Everything you need to install a good quality split system in
your wheels. PMI/Kevlar® composite cones for maximum
rigidity and response. Ribbon tweeters for crisp highs.
Separate crossovers with screw terminals. Mounting hardware
included. Each kit contains:
• 2 x woofer/midrange drivers • 2 x ribbon tweeters
• 2 x crossovers • 2 x grilles
6" Car Speaker Spacers
These spacers are ideal if there is not enough room
behind/below the mounting panel to accomodate speakers.
They are both black in colour, made from heat-resin 100%
pure ABS plastic, and angled for better audio and
presentation. The 6” spacer has a number of mounting holes
to suit different sizes and placement, while the 6 x 9” spacer
has handy concealed mounting
tabs for that perfect
presentation.
$
9 95
6" x 9" Car Speaker
Spacers
• To suit: our 6 x 9 inch speakers
Cat. CS-2336 & CS-2328.
Cat: CS-2338
• Woofer/mid: 6.5 PMI/Kevlar composite cone,
diecast basket • Frequency response: 70Hz - 4kHz
• Tweeter: Ribbon type with neodymium magnet
• Frequency response: 3kHz - 40kHz Limited stock
®
$
14 95
Cat: CS-2277
Their huge power handling and cone excursion make these
the ideal subs for people who really want massive SPL in a
compact package.
From
• Nominal impedance 4 ohms
$
• Two models available.
99
10" 250WRMS
Cat. CS-2356 $99 ea
12" 350WRMS
Cat. CS-2358 $119 ea
Our new range of Response Precision subwoofers sound as
good as they look! Ideal for reverse installation with the
basket displayed. Basket made of heavy-duty die cast
aluminium allowing for distortion-free bass
reproduction, while steel gasket ring
provides additional support.
• Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
• Power handling: 250WRMS
• Efficiency: 84dB SPL <at> 1W
• Qts: 0.46
• Fs: 30.3Hz
$
• Vas: 29.8 Litres
Cat: CS-2352
• Xmax: 10mm
219
Cat: AX-3584
Steelmate Paging Car Alarm with
Coded Disarm and Rechargeable Remotes
$
379
Cat: LA-9016
Unfortunately many car thefts happen because the thief gets the keys to the vehicle; this
system minimises that risk with a coded disarm feature. When enabled, it
allows the owner to select a 1 - 5 digit pin code that is entered via
the remote control and is required to disarm the system. Like our
previous systems, this unit also includes two way paging with
rechargeable remotes. The alarm includes long range back-lit
LCD paging remote control with integrated rechargeable
lithium-ion batteries inside, vibrating motors for when the alarm
is triggered and an alarm clock! A 12V cigarette plug charger is
provided to keep your remotes topped up while on the go.
• Coded disarm function keeps your vehicle secure even if thieves have the keys.
• Metallic water resistant LCD transmitters with lithium battery • FSK technology, range up to 3000m
• Valet mode • Out of operating range warning
Spare remote: LA-9017 $99
6
34 95
10" Subwoofer
Cat: AX-3580
249
$
Low Profile
Subwoofers
• May differ slightly to the
ones pictured
$
$5
4 Way
Car Speaker 6” x 9"
A high performance speaker with 4 independent drivers.
• Nominal impedance 4 ohms.
• Freq response: 45Hz - 20kHz
• Power handling: 100WRM
• Sensitivity: 90dB 1W<at> 1m
• Sold per pair
$
69 95
Cat: CS-2388
All savings are based on original recommended retail prices.
C H E C K T H E S E O U T. . .
Universal RFID/Fingerprint
Access Controller
Apache 4 Channel RC Helicopter
• All metal construction
• Weatherproof and tamperproof
• IR remote control
• Flash memory storage
• Storage for up to 120 fingerprints
• Up to 4 supervisors
Spare parts available separately:
GT-3300 7.4V 1000mAh
Rechargeable Battery $44.95
GT-3301 Stabiliser Bar Set of 2 $6.95
GT-3302 Gear Shaft B $9.95
GT-3303 Drive Gear $4.95
GT-3304 Tail Rotor Rack $6.95
GT-3305 Connecting Buckle $1.00
Four channels gives you the full range of control - up/down, forward/back, back-left/right,
and rotate-left/right. Finished in jungle camo.
• 20 minutes charge gives about 10 minutes flight time
• Rechargeable 7.4V 1000mA Li-Po battery
• Frequency: 40MHz
• Requires 8 x AA batteries (for controller)
• Recommended for ages 10yrs+
A complete bio access control solution that enables you to enrol up to
120 users. The fingerprint scanner reads in less than two
seconds and provides different output options including
Wiegand, NO/NC relay, alarm or door strike control. It has a
robust cast housing and all operating parameters are stored in a
flash memory so it won't be lost due to power failure.
$
299
Cat: GT-3263
This cutaway model of a female pelvic section
shows a baby engaged before active birth.
The model can be dismantled (indeed it must be
built in the first place) to assist in understanding
the birth process.
• Recommended for ages 8yrs+
Remote Control
BULLSH•T Detector
Absolutely essential equipment for your next
corporate meeting.
Next time that tosser starts crapping on about
synergies, tipping points, end-state visions and
stakeholder partnering, you can just turn on your
Bullsh*t Detector and shut him up with one of nine
anti-bullsh*t messages.
$
Ideal for medical centres and
doctors surgeries to help explain
medical processes to children!
The perfect model for muscle structure study. It
shows how the muscles fit on the skeleton and has
transparent parts to show the bones.
• 46 parts, 190mm high.
• Recommended for ages 8yrs+
Cat: GH-1122
Use this kit to control DMX fixtures using a PC and USB
interface. A comprehensive kit that includes software, USB cable
and enclosure. There's also a DLL provided so you can write
your own software if you like. It can also be operated in standalone mode that outputs all 512 channels at the same time (9V
battery required for stand-alone mode).
DMX Relay Control Kit
Control a relay with the DMX512 protocol. It is actually a buscontrolled power driver. The relay will be activated when the DMX
value of the set channel equals 140 or more and turns off when
the value is 120 or less. Team it with
KC-5482 to make a computer controlled
automation system. Kit contains DMX512, XLR plug, PCB and all specified
components.
49 95
Cat: KV-3612
24 95
Cat: GG-2386
29 95
• Test software and DMX Light Player software included
• 512 DMX channels with 256 levels each
• 3 pin XLR-DMX output connector
• Windows 98SE or higher compatible
• Optional 9V battery needed for stand alone test mode
• Dimensions: 106(L) x 100(W) x 44(H)mm
$
Human Muscle & Skeleton
Anatomy Model
DMX Controller
USB Interface Kit
$
169
Human Pregnancy Anatomy Model
Cat: LA-5122
• Requires 2 x AA batteries
• Handy belt clip
$
Other Anatomy
models in store
$
24 95
Cat: GG-2384
Ultrasonic Cleaner
$
149
Cat: KV-3610
Suitable for domestic use, this ultrasonic cleaner produces
millions of microscopic bubbles to clean items such as
jewellery, dentures, razor heads, printer heads, small
silverware and small machined metal parts. DON’T FORGET
• 600ml capacity
• Mains powered
$
115
Cat: YH-5406
MUM THIS
MOTHERS DAY
SUNDAY
10TH MAY
Multi-function Water Quality Meter
This meter tests pH, temperature, total
dissolved solids (TDS), electrical
conductivity (EC), conductivity factor (CF)
and oxidation reduction potential (ORP).
The large backlit LCD can display pH plus
one other parameter at a time. Applications
include agriculture and aquaculture,
science, education, research, food and
beverage production, fish hatcheries, water
conditioning and recycling etc. 9VDC mains
adaptor, charger, buffer solution, probes
with holder and carry case included.
$
499
Cat: QM-1675
School Zone
Speed Alert Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip
Magazine April 2009
Basically a specialised timer that alerts you
with a flashing LED when school zonereduced speeds are in force. The unit will
flash for the whole time the restrictions
operate in the morning and afternoon. The
kit includes all specified components,
double-sided PCB and
$
95
case with machined and
screen-printed lid.
Cat: KC-5472
49
40W Soldering Station
This temperature controlled station comes with a lightweight
iron with anti-slip grip and tip cleaning sponge, with
temperature adjustment up to 450°C. It also has a 4mm
banana socket connected to mains
earth for soldering
static-sensitive
$
95
components.
59
Cat: TS-1620
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
7
LAPTOP ACCESSORIES
USB Roll-Up Keyboard
4 Port High
Performance USB Hub
This QWERTY keyboard rolls up for easy
transportation or storage and is waterproof. You
can spill coffee on it and it won't miss a beat.
Perfect for workshops, garages, food
preparation areas and travellers.
$
Available in black or white to match your
computer décor. The white version is backlit with
soft blue light for when you're burning the midnight oil.
49 95
• Plug and Play, no drivers needed,
hot swappable
• Compatible with Windows 98,
2000, Me, XP, Vista and Mac
• Self-powered
• Dimensions: 80(W) x 90(D) x 18(H)mm
Cat: XC-5147
$5
• USB powered
• Can be rolled up to 80(W) x 135(H)mm
• Compatible with Windowx 2000/XP/Mac
Note: Flash drive not included
$
Also available 7 port high speed hub
(2 ports on the top) - simple, flexible and highly
scalable connectivity solution. XC-4883 $59.95
19 95
XC-5147 Roll-Up Keyboard Backlit - White
XC-5148 Roll-Up Keyboard - Black
Was $24.95
IP68 Rated
USB Optical Mouse
USB Optical Mouse
with Number Keypad
Cat: XC-5148
Enter the IP68 mouse - impervious to anything you can
throw at it, having the highest
rating for dust and water
resistance. It performs all
the normal mouse
functions including
scrolling and has a
tactile rubber shell.
Ideal for environments
such as labs, factories,
marine, military, science,
food preparation etc. It can
be cleaned with water,
alcohol, or disinfectant.
$
• USB powered
• IP68 rated
39
95
Cat: XM-5139
Notebook computers are great when you are
moving about or space is at a premium.
However, the lack of a proper numeric
keypad and mouse can be a real
nuisance. This problem is
easily fixed with this new
combination mouse
with built-in keypad.
It simply plugs into
the computer's
USB port and gives
you a full function
numeric keypad and mouse.
$
• Lead length 700mm.
• Measures: 67(W) x 110(L) x 20(H)mm
37 95
• PSU size: 63(W) x 180(D) x 40(H)mm
This power supply has a universal input voltage 100240VAC 50/60Hz and has a regulated output. It features
short circuit and overload protection and an LED power
indicator. Supplied with 9 adaptor plugs to suit the majority
of laptop computers including, ACER, IBM, DELL, Apple,
Sony, Toshiba, Samsung, Compaq, Sony, Panasonic etc.
$
64 95
6021
9699
9709
9678
9369
9905
4620
4365
9439
9476
9821
4940
4721
8832
9267
9531
6788
4699
2822
9669
3899
4130
7155
3433
4799
6221
3100
0866
8337
3121
1614
7033
Tweed Heads
Wollongong
VICTORIA
Cheltenham
Coburg
Frankston
Geelong
Hallam
Melbourne
Ringwood
Springvale
Sunshine
Thomastown
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Cairns
Ipswich
Mackay
Maroochydore
$
79 95
USB Notebook
LED light
This handy LED light is powered by
USB cable and clips onto to your
notebook. The 5 super bright LEDs
and adjustable head are a simple
solution to enable you to continue
using your notebook under varying
light conditions.
• 60(L) x 50(W) x 12(D)mm
Cat: MP-3474
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02)
Alexandria
Ph (02)
Bankstown
Ph (02)
Blacktown
Ph (02)
Bondi Junction Ph (02)
Brookvale
Ph (02)
Campbelltown Ph (02)
Erina
Ph (02)
Gore Hill
Ph (02)
Hornsby
Ph (02)
Liverpool
Ph (02)
Newcastle
Ph (02)
Penrith
Ph (02)
Rydalmere
Ph (02)
Sydney City
Ph (02)
Taren Point
Ph (02)
119
Cat: MP-3471
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
Cat: XC-4804
Cat: YN-8400
• Maximum
power output:
90W
• Voltage range:
15 - 24V
• Current: 6A (max)
• Dimensions: 138(L) x
58(W) x 37(H)mm
• Will charge newer
Dell model Laptops!
Australia Freecall Orders: Ph 1800 022 888
29 95
Hardwired PC peripherals can be
difficult to share from one
computer to the next. Now
you can bypass the
complication and access
your USB devices directly
through your network. Plug this
device into your router with the
supplied Cat5 cable then plug in a USB
powered product and computers will be
able to see and use your USB gadgets
from any computer. Ideal for printers,
scanners, or for access to your
external hard drives.
Cat: XM-5138
150W Laptop Power
Supply 15-24VDC
$
$
Networking
USB 2.0 Server
Universal 90W Laptop
Power Supply with
Digital Display
This laptop power supply has adaptors to fit the major
manufacturers' power sockets. It also displays the output
voltage and automatically
adjusts the output for the
adaptor used.
8
High performance 4-port hub with a difference: it has one
port on top, so it's much easier to place a memory stick
into. Data transfer of up to 480Mbps.
Was $9.95
Ph (07) 5524 6566
Ph (02) 4226 7089
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
(03)
9585
9384
9781
5221
9796
9663
9870
9547
9310
9465
5011
1811
4100
5800
4577
2030
9053
1022
8066
3333
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
Ph
(07)
(07)
(07)
(07)
(07)
3863
4041
3282
4953
5479
0099
6747
5800
0611
3511
Mermaid Beach Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
Woolloongabba Ph (07) 3393 0777
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
Launceston
Ph (03) 6334 2777
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
Gepps Cross
Ph (08) 8262 3200
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Maddington
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Midland
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Northbridge
Ph (08) 9328 8252
Rockingham
Ph (08) 9592 8000
$2
$
7 95
Cat: SL-2803
Limited Stock
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Dunedin
Ph (03) 471 7934
Glenfield
Ph (09) 444 4628
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Hastings
Ph (06) 876 0239
Manukau
Ph (09) 263 6241
Newmarket
Ph (09) 377 6421
Palmerston Nth Ph (06) 353 8246
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 922
Prices valid to 23rd May ‘09
Free Call: 1800 022 888 for orders! www.jaycar.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
PCs – the real meaning of eternity
They used to say that God invented cricket
to teach Englishmen the meaning of eternity.
Personally, I think that this could also easily
apply to PCs. Certainly, I’ve had my fair
share of problems with them over the years.
I have dabbled with PCs using Microsoft Windows for more years than
I care to admit. And as time has gone
on, I have found hardware and software problems increasingly difficult
to resolve but perhaps that’s just me.
“Help” is a dirty word in the computer
industry and engaging technical support is often a good way to waste a good
chunk of your life. It really is quite
surprising how often the problem is
“a third party issue”.
Many people are now taking their
courage in both hands and moving
to Linux. It’s not only free but comes
with a wide range of applications and
provided it’s properly set up, is very
secure when it comes to browsing the
Internet.
In my case, I have been moving
slowly but inexorably towards Apple
Mac which I find works extremely
well. Unfortunately, most Macintoshes
are expensive if you buy new but there
are plenty of good secondhand units
on eBay, etc.
The minimum requirements are a
G4 motherboard with a 1GHz processor, 512MB of RAM, a decent hard
disk drive, a DVD player and Operating System 10 (OSX). This operating
software line started in 2001 with
OSX 10.0 Cheetah and has progressed
through to the current OSX 10.5
Leopard.
The number of Macintosh models
can be very confusing but you can find
out about your particular machine if
you enter its serial number into the
Apple Support Website. Alternatively,
you can download a program called
“MacTracker”.
One of my favourites is the 2002
PowerMac G4 M8570 with Mirror
Drive Doors. This model comes wellfeatured, with plenty of options and
accessories available. Some even
come with a dual processor and they
can also use Bluetooth keyboards and
mice (by adding an optional card), as
well as WiFi with Airport and Airport
Extreme cards.
Recently, I encountered two of these
models that wouldn’t boot. When you
pressed the power button they would
light up momentarily but that was then
followed by lots of nothing!
By unplugging everything in sight,
I soon deduced that it was the power
supply that was at fault. Of course, at
this juncture, technical support would
tell you to go and get a new one which
costs a motza. That’s the main problem
with a Mac – if it fails, repairs can be
expensive.
In view of this, I decided to give it a
Items Covered This Month
•
•
PowerMac G4 M8570
Bosch Capacitor Discharge
Ignition Box
•
Conia CLCD1930 DVD LCD
TV-DVD Combo
•
1966 Tandberg Series 6X
Reel-to-Reel Tape Recorder
•
Samsung LA32R51B TV set
go. To remove the power supply, you
open the side of the computer with a
ring tab and unscrew the Phillips-head
screw on the opposite wall inside.
Then you unscrew the chrome hex
screw on the rear panel. The power
supply will then slide forward and
then out.
You then have to unplug P1 from
the motherboard and the power leads
to the DVD player and hard drives.
The power supply is a Samsung
P58 (Apple p/n: 614-0224) PSCF
401601B(C) Rev A. To switch it on, you
have to connect the green lead (pin 11)
of P1 to the black lead (pin 12). A quick
check showed that the only voltages
available were the 5V and 25V standby
rails on pins 1 (violet) and 14 (white)
respectively.
To dismantle the power supply, you
first remove the cover. The PC board
is then removed by undoing a further
three brass screws and unplugging
the twin fans and the power lead. It
can then be lifted clear by squeezing
the plastic clip in the centre of the
board.
Workshop Component-Level Repair
Commercial, industrial and defence equipment repair & overhaul.
If your service requirement is urgent or important, call Switchmode.
ELECTRONICS SPECIALISTS
TO INDUSTRY AND DEFENCE
siliconchip.com.au
SWITCHMODE POWER SUPPLIES PTY LTD (ABN 54 003 958 030)
1/37 Leighton Place, Hornsby, NSW 2077.
email: martin.griffith<at>switchmode.com.au
Phone (02) 9476 0300
webpage: www.switchmode.com.au
May 2009 57
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
The soldering wasn’t exactly brilliant but there didn’t appear to be
any dry joints. However, just to make
sure, I resoldered any that looked even
remotely suspect.
My suspicion was that the problem
was due to failing electrolytic capacitors. There are about 20 of these on the
board and some of these are difficult
to access without further disassembly.
However, I figured that the more difficult they were to access, the more
likely it was that the fans couldn’t cool
them. And that in turn meant that these
were the ones that were most likely to
be faulty.
In this power supply, you have to
remove a sub-board in the primary
circuit to gain access to these parts.
There are five capacitors involved:
three on the main board (C139 56μF
58 Silicon Chip
35V, C141 47μF 25V and C137 56μF
35V) and two on the sub-board (C129
22μF 50V and C130 10μF 50V).
I replaced all these, along with C207
(470μF 16V) for good measure, and
then reassembled the unit and plugged
it in. That fixed the problem and a few
quick checks on the old parts revealed
that C139, C141 & C137 were all well
down in capacitance.
Changing the same capacitors in
the other power supply got it going
again too.
Bosch CDI for a Porsche
Included amongst the potpourri
of the stuff that I fix are assorted car
computers and other automotive
gadget controllers. These invariably
come in from nearby workshops and
are usually simply marked “faulty”.
More often than not, I don’t know the
fault symptom and sometimes I don’t
even know the exact function of the
device unless I contact the mechanic.
Because they’re made to such a
high standard, dry joints are unlikely
in such equipment. However, they
do happen, especially around relay
terminals and crystals. Liquid damage and corrosion are rare too, as the
PC tracks are covered with a thick
lacquer. However, if a module has
been submerged or had liquid drip
into its housing, then it’s not unusual
for trouble to occur around multi-way
plug connectors, often just where you
can’t reach!
The most common problem is leaky
electrolytic capacitors. Unfortunately,
these can be difficult to replace because the boards are multi-layer. In
addition, the protective lacquer can
make it difficult to remove faulty parts
and suck out the residual solder inside
the holes.
If a capacitor has been leaking, then
the electrolyte has to be cleaned up
and any damaged tracks repaired. In
such cases, I use a glass-fibre pen to
scrape the lacquer off the track, along
with any corrosion. The board is then
cleaned and the tracks coated with a
layer of solder to strengthen and protect them. If a track has broken, then
this also involves fitting a wire link to
serve as a bridge.
Because you are usually unable to
test the module on the spot, you have
to err on the side of caution and treat
everything with suspicion. This often
involves replacing some parts unnecessarily but that’s better than having
the unit come back.
Recently, I was given a Bosch capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) box
(Part No. 0 227 300 004) which I later
discovered was from an early (1970)
Porsche 911. The message attached to
the box said that it was “running at the
wrong speed”, whatever that meant.
Undoing four screws removes the
top cover and exposes the PC board.
The whole device was built like a brick
outhouse and it used conventional
discrete components. Unfortunately,
no circuit diagram was available, nor
could I find one on the Internet.
I picked the brains of several colleagues and the consensus was that
it was likely to be a capacitor and/or
the SCR that was at fault. As a result,
I started with the only electrolytic
capacitor in the box (C2) and also
siliconchip.com.au
two high-voltage capacitors – C1 (1μF
250V) and C8 (unmarked). However, I
could not fault them.
C8 measured 1.4μF on my capacitance meter. This is the capacitor that
feeds the ignition coil in the car so
I decided to replace it. After a lot of
thought, I selected a 1.5μF 400V polyester type and fitted it in place.
That involved first disconnecting
about 20 leads and removing the PC
board. It also involved drilling out
the rivet that held the original clamp
and then gluing the new capacitor to
the case.
While I had the board out, I did some
DC measurements and used a Digital
Analyser to check the semiconductors. First, I checked TO-3 NPN power
transistor T1. This is marked RCA
H8146 61019 but I could not find this
in my reference books or on the web.
Fortunately, it measured OK, with an
hfe of 45. Similarly, the stud mounted
SCR (Th1) measured OK too.
Without a circuit or a car to try
it on, I sent it back for testing but it
boomeranged within a few days with
the same complaint. I must say that I
really wasn’t all that keen to fix this
CDI unit but I was persuaded that it
was really important as replacements
were not locally available. Instead,
it would mean sending this CDI to
America for an exchange unit, which
would not be cheap. US freight costs
are extremely expensive.
At this stage, there was nothing for
it but to trace out the complete circuit. I did this in stages, first drawing
a picture of the component side and
then the track side of the board. From
there, I was able to start drawing the
interconnections and after an awful lot
of drawing and redrawing, I eventually
siliconchip.com.au
came up with the complete circuit
diagram. I was then able to figure out
how the circuit worked.
Now that I had the circuit, I decided
to mock the unit up on the bench with
a distributor and a coil so that I could
tell whether the unit was working or
not. Before doing that though, I connected a 12V portable battery to the
unit and found that I could hear a loud
whistle from transformer T1. I also
measured +436V on the cathode of D7,
so that meant that the DC converter
stage was working. I then poured some
super glue into the winding former in
an attempt to reduce the noise but it
made no difference.
The workshop that sent the unit in
lent me a compatible distributor so
that I could apply the correct switching waveform to the pickup sensor
(via pin7 of the plug) but no matter
what I did, it was obvious that the
SCR (Th1) wasn’t firing. However, DC
measurements showed that the correct
supply rails were supplied to each
stage, including the +6.8V set by ZD2.
Next, I discovered that the frontend Darlington pair (T2 & T3) were
functioning correctly but T4 was not
responding. To switch it on, I had to
bias its base to ground with an 8.2kΩ
resistor. So what was going on?
By now, I had checked just about
every component in the unit except
the yellow WIMA polyester/polycarbonate capacitors. I can honestly say
that I can not recall ever having had a
failure in this type of capacitor but in
this case, the evidence was pointing
at one or all of them.
As a result, I removed C4 (15nF),
C5 (10nF) and C6 (10nF) and installed
new ones. And that was it. Running
the distributor now produced a very
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If you need to control
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motors and
want a
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controller
that will easily
handle 30 amps,
then this is the kit for you.
This controller allows you to vary the
speed of DC motors from 0 to 100%. It
is also ideal for controlling loads such
as incandescent/halogen lamps and
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This kit makes a great controller for
use on small electric vehicle projects,
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amps without problems—it barely gets
warm! Item code: SPEEDCON.
We also have solar maximiser kits,
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products and publications.
Go to shop.ata.org.au or call
us on (03)9639 1500.
May 2009 59
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
The faulty Bosch CDI unit was rigged up on the bench with a distributor & coil
so that it could be tested. The problem took a lot of man-hours to track down.
healthy spark which was a huge relief
to all concerned.
Vintage tape recorder
Amongst all the stuff that comes
into the workshop there is a smattering of vintage restoration. Once such
item was a 1966 Tandberg Series 6X
reel-to-reel hybrid tape recorder. This
one didn’t look too bad for its 43 years
but the mechanics weren’t working.
The reason for this was quite simple
– the pinch roller was badly perished
and the main belt had broken in several places.
I managed to purchase a scanned
copy of the service manual via the web
and this gave me the part numbers.
Unfortunately, the only place I could
get a new pinch roller from was the
US. This was a high-precision unit
but the cost was US$85 plus US$35
for overseas shipments. That worked
out to be about $A170 for one lousy
pinch roller!
My client, Stephen, is a farmer by
trade and really couldn’t justify this
cost, so we looked around for alternatives. He is a resourceful chap and
finally came around to the idea of
making one himself.
The first thing he had to do was find
the right sort of material. He initially
tried rubber mallets (too hard) but
then, after a good look around, came
up with a rubber doorstop.
Because of its softness, rubber can
60 Silicon Chip
be a difficult substance to shape using
ordinary tools. However, he solved that
problem by freezing it, which made it
harder and thus much easier to work
with. He did this by placing it in the
kitchen freezer overnight. Then, by
using a canned pressure-pack freezer,
he was able to keep the rubber cold
enough to shape it into the roller’s correct dimensions and drill a hole so that
it fitted the original shaft snugly.
The result was quite good and it
was left to me to refit the new pinch
roller into the Tandberg. As it turned
out, this was one of the most difficult
pinch roller replacements I have ever
done and I lost quite a lot of hair fitting it.
The next problem was obtaining a
600mm-long 3.5mm-diameter round
belt. In the end, Stephen found a
source of O-ring vulcanised rubber and
purchased a length just over 600mm
long. He then cut it to size, rested the
ends in the groove of a piece of wood
and used superglue to connect the
clean cut ends together in a butt joint.
This was left to set for 12 hours and
this again produced a good result.
Refitting the belt restored the mechanical operation of the old Tandberg
which then functioned normally.
The grey nomad
A “grey nomad” brought in his dead
Conia CLCD1930 LCD TV-DVD Combo
unit when his campervan made a pit-
stop in our neighbourhood. He was
mumbling something about someone
connecting the wrong DC power lead
to it. However, he wasn’t very specific
and I got the impression that it was a
subject best avoided – at least in front
of his wife.
My immediate thought was that the
ring-in lead had probably reversed
the polarity at the DC plug and that
this had killed it. I kept this to myself
though, since there was really no way
of knowing until I opened it up.
This unit is a bit messy to disassemble, since the LCD panel in one section
of the cabinet and the rest of the set is
assembled into the other half. When I
connected a 12V supply, nothing was
happening. However, I could measure
12V into the main board but there was
no 5V rail. That was my first clue.
I traced the 12V rail to two 5V DC-DC
converter ICs (U3 and U13). These are
8-pin sub-miniature surface-mount ICs
(ACT4080SH). Unfortunately, I wasn’t
able to find any data on these chips but
you didn’t need to be Einstein to figure
out that they were stuffed. There were
tiny cracks or holes in their bodies, so
they definitely needed replacing.
Next, I checked out the inverter
power supply board and found that
the surface-mounted fuse F1 was open
circuit. This was linked using a thin
strand of copper wire. I also checked
the DVD player circuitry but that
looked OK.
Having got that far, I tried in vain
to hunt down substitutes for the DCDC converters. However, not only
could I not find any but I couldn’t
even discover their pin connections.
Eventually, I did find an email address
for Conia spare parts and managed to
order a new motherboard for the TV.
When it arrived I fitted it and
switched it on. The fluoros all lit up
and the remote control switched the
red standby LED to blue but there
was no picture, no sound and no DVD
playback. Furthermore, there was an
alarming hissing noise coming from
the SVA display panel, as though it
was arcing.
I initially suspected the inverter
power supply for the backlights as
they operate at high voltage but then I
discovered that the arcing noise ceased
when I disconnected the 30-pin J7 data
plug to the display panel itself. There
are no high voltages on this connection, yet the rustling/arcing noise was
on the display driver panel.
siliconchip.com.au
Things were looking bleak. It was beginning to look
as though the real problem might be the display itself,
in which case I had badly misdiagnosed.
It was while I was mulling over all the things that
might have got wrong that I noticed a small difference
between the replacement board and the original. On
the replacement, there was a row of jumpers marked
J1-J3 which allowed you to select +5V, +12V and +3.3V
and this one was set to 3.3V.
By contrast, the original board had only a soldered
link to select +5V. I moved the jumper on the new
board to +5V and reconnected all the other leads before switching the set on again. The arcing noise was
now gone and much to my relief, a picture quickly
appeared.
When I retuned the set, the sound followed suit. And
as I quickly discovered, the DVD player also worked
when it was selected in the menu.
Samsung LA32R51B
Last month I wrote about a Samsung LA32R51B TV
with a blown power supply. The two main electrolytic
capacitors (CP823 & CP824) would literally explode
after the set had been on for about 30 minutes.
Apart from the first time when collateral damage
ruined the PF9001 24V controller IC for the backlight
inverters, any subsequent damage was limited to these
two main electros and the 6.3A main fuse. I initially
attributed the problem to the voltage-doubling circuit
but subsequently discovered that it was the power
factor control circuit that was the culprit.
To prove this, I decided to remove this circuit or
at least part of it. The circuit consists of a 45A 600V
UFS Series N Channel IGBT Mosfet strapped across
the +350V rail. This Mosfet is controlled by IC802S
(ICE1PCS02) which is fed +15V and monitors the current in the +350V rail. I figured that removing the IC
would prevent the Mosfet from switching on.
Unfortunately, I was wrong because the Mosfet
promptly blew up! As you can no doubt appreciate,
I was by now somewhat nervous of these loud bangs.
Anyway, I removed the Mosfet and then ran the set,
monitoring the +350V rail for about 12 hours. I then
replaced the Mosfet, the control ICs and four small
electrolytic capacitors around IC802S.
That finally fixed the problem.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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May 2009 61
Phone: 02 9798 9233
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By JIM ROWE
Precision
10V DC reference
for checking DMMs
Have you ever checked the calibration of your digital multimeter?
Yeah, we know – you haven’t because there is no easy (read
cheap) way of doing it. But now you can with this precision DC
voltage reference that can be built in a few hours. Without any
need for adjustment it will provide you with a 10.000V DC source
accurate to within ±3mV, ie, an accuracy of ±0.03%.
M
OST OF US DON’T ever get our
DMMs calibrated, though they
do drift out of calibration over years
of use. If you are using them in your
occupation, they should be checked
every year or so – otherwise how can
you trust the readings?
But it can cost quite a bit to send
a DMM away to a standards lab for
calibration – more than many DMMs
are worth. So generally we either hope
for the best or simply buy a new DMM
if we suspect that our existing meter
has drifted too far out of calibration.
Back in the 1970s when DMMs first
became available, the only practical
62 Silicon Chip
source of an accurately known DC voltage was the Weston cell, a wet chemical “primary cell” which had been
developed in 1893 and had become
the international standard for EMF/
voltage in 1911 (see panel). It produced
an accurate 1.0183V reference which
could be used to calibrate DMMs and
other instruments.
Unfortunately, Weston cells were
fairly expensive and few people had
direct access to one for meter calibration. As a result, most people tended to
use a reasonably fresh mercury cell as
a “poor man’s” voltage reference. Fresh
mercury cells have a terminal voltage
very close to 1.3566V at 20°C and this
falls quite slowly to about 1.3524V
after a year or so. Silver oxide cells
can also used for the same purpose,
having a stable terminal voltage very
close to 1.55V.
Of course, batteries of any kind have
a tendency to obey Murphy’s Law
and usually turn out to have quietly
expired before you need them. And
although mercury and silver oxide
cells have quite a long life, especially
if you use them purely as a voltage
reference, they certainly aren’t immune to this problem. Which means
that these batteries make a pretty flaky
siliconchip.com.au
voltage reference, at best.
Fortunately, in the 1980s semiconductor makers developed a relatively low-cost source of stable and
accurately predictable DC voltage: the
precision monolithic voltage reference
(PMVR). This is a kind of up-market
relative of the familiar 3-terminal
voltage regulator IC. Like 3-terminal
regulators, PMVRs produce a regulated
DC output voltage when they are fed
with unregulated DC power.
The Analog Devices AD588 device
we’re using in this new voltage reference project incorporates a number
of recent advances in PMVR technology. These include an ion-implanted
“buried” zener reference diode plus
high-stability thin-film resistors on
the wafer, which are laser trimmed
to minimise drift and provide high
initial accuracy.
It also incorporates highly stable
on-chip op amps which are configured
to allow Kelvin connections to the
load and/or external current boosters,
for driving long lines or high current
loads.
Block diagram
You can see what’s inside the AD588
in the block diagram of Fig.1. The
voltage reference cell is at upper left,
consisting of the “buried” zener (6.5V)
and its current source together with op
amp A1. All the resistors (R1-R6) are
high-stability thin-film resistors, laser
trimmed to allow the gain of A1 to be
set to a high degree of precision – so
the cell’s basic output voltage (between
pins VHI and VLO) is initially set to
10.000V ±3mV (for the AD588JQ/AQ
version we use here), without any
external adjustment.
Temperature compensation inside
the cell also gives the basic voltage
reference a very low temperature drift
coefficient: typically ±2ppm/°C. In
addition, resistors R4 and R5 can be
configured to provide a very accurate
“centre tap” for this voltage, allowing
the chip to be used as a precise source
of ±5.000V ±1.5mV.
Although this basic untrimmed initial accuracy of the AD588 (10.000V
±0.03%) is quite good enough for
calibrating the majority of low-cost
DMMs, the chip can also be trimmed
very easily to improve its accuracy by
a factor of greater than 10 times – ie, to
an accuracy around ±0.002%.
This is done by connecting the GAIN
ADJ pin to a 100kΩ trimpot, connected
siliconchip.com.au
VHI
+Vs
(2)
A3 IN
(6)
(4)
NOISE
REDUCTION
(3)
A3
SENSE
(7)
RB
A3
6.5V
GAIN
ADJ
(5)
A1
R3
(1) A3
OUT
R1
R4
R2
R5
A4
GND
SENSE+
R6
(9)
(15) A4
OUT
(14) A4
A2
SENSE
GND (10)
SENSE–
(16)
–Vs
(8)
VLO
(12)
BAL
ADJ
(11)
VCT
(13)
A4 IN
Fig.1: block diagram of the AD588 voltage reference. It contains four op
amps (A1-A4) plus a “buried” zener and its current source to provide the
voltage reference cell.
Specifications
Output voltage: 10.000V DC
Sensing: internal or remote sensing to compensate for output cable
voltage drop
Basic accuracy: ±0.03% (±3mV) without adjustment, ±0.002% after
optional trim adjustment and calibration
Long term drift: <15ppm per 1000 hours, mostly in first year of operation
Temperature coefficient: 3ppm/°C between -25°C and +85°C
Maximum output current: 10mA
Noise on output: less than 6mV RMS
Load regulation: less than ±50μV/mA for loads up to 10mA
Supply line regulation: less than 200μV/V
Power supply: 12V AC, current drain <60mA
between the VHI and VLO terminals.
The pot allows the gain of A1 to be
adjusted for a very small output voltage range (approximately -3.5mV to
+7.5mV) without any adverse effect
on temperature stability. Of course,
in order to take advantage of this trimming feature, you must have access
to an even higher precision voltage
reference, to compare it with.
Op amp A2 is used to allow accurate
“ground sensing”, ensuring that the
external system ground is accurately
held at the same potential as VLO.
And op amps A3 and A4, which are
internally compensated, are provided
to act as output buffers for the VHI and
VLO voltages, as well as providing for a
full Kelvin (ie, remote sensing) output
connection.
The full circuit
As you can see from the circuit
schematic of Fig.2, there’s not a great
deal in our new precision voltage
reference apart from the all-important
AD588 chip (IC1). This does just about
everything.
All that we need to do in the rest
of the circuit is provide it with a
moderately regulated and filtered
power source of ±15V and also make
its buffered output voltage available,
either at the main local terminals or at
May 2009 63
68
+15V
A
2200 F
25V
K
K
ZD1
15V
1W
A3 OUT
A3 IN–
D1
1.8k
11
A
12V AC
INPUT
2
+Vs
470 F 100nF
16V
A
22
12 BAL
POWER
LED1
ADJ
K
7
CON1
K
A3 IN+
VHI
IC1
AD588AQ
(OR JQ)
VLO
A4 IN+
9
A
GAIN
ADJ
GND
SENSE–
NR
680nF
MKT
1.8k
D2
VCT
A4 IN–
GND
SENSE+
A4 OUT
1
+10.00V
OUT
3
S1a
4
6
TRIM
VR1*
100k
25T
5
10
+10.00V
SENSE
INT/EXT
SENSING
8
0V SENSE
13
14
S1b
15
0V OUT
–Vs
68
–15V
A
2200 F
25V
K
ZD2
15V
1W
470 F
100nF
16V
16
* TRIMPOT OPTIONAL
(SEE TEXT)
D1, D2: 1N4004
A
SC
2009
PRECISION DC VOLTAGE REFERENCE
ZD1, ZD2
A
LED
K
K
K
A
Fig.2: the circuit uses the AD588 precision voltage reference (IC1) and not much else. Diodes D1 & D2 function as halfwave rectifiers and feed zener diodes ZD1 & ZD2 to provide ±15V rails for the IC.
the end of a cable connecting a remote
load to them.
The power supply configuration is
quite straightforward and uses a halfwave rectifier circuit to produce each
DC supply rail from a 12V AC input
(which can be a 12V 500mA AC plugpack). Diodes D1 & D2 form the rectifiers, with filtering provided by two
2200μF electrolytic capacitors. Zener
diodes ZD1 and ZD2 (both 15V types)
then provide moderate regulation for
the two supply rails, in conjunction
with the two 68Ω series resistors.
A small amount of additional filtering is provided by two 470μF electrolytics, together with 100nF bypass
capacitors at the supply pins for IC1.
Note that power indicator LED1 is
connected directly between the two
supply rails, in series with two 1.8kΩ
current-limiting resistors.
What This Voltage Reference Cannot Do
While this 10V DC reference is very
handy if you want to check the DC accuracy of your digital multimeter, it cannot tell
you anything about your DMM’s accuracy
in its other modes such as DC and AC
current, AC voltage and resistance. So just
because you have done a simple check
on the DC voltage accuracy, don’t let it
lull you into a false sense of security that
everything is well with your DMM.
In fact, it is possible that this 10V DC
reference may alert you to the fact that
your DMM has drifted well away from its
initial calibration which may have been
pretty good when you purchased it. How
many years ago was that?
64 Silicon Chip
If you are using DMMs in your occupation, they should be calibrated every year
or so, otherwise you cannot really trust the
readings. Moreover, if you have dropped
your multimeter, it definitely should be suspected, particularly if its internal calibration
is performed by tweaking potentiometers.
Let’s face it, most DMMs get dropped from
to time – that’s just normal.
If you need a full performance verification of all functions and ranges for your
work then that is best performed by an
accredited calibration laboratory.
For information and a quote on DMM
calibration, contact Trio-Smartcal on 1300
134 091. www.triosmartcal.com.au
The connections for IC1 itself are
fairly easy to follow. The 680nF capacitor connected to ground from the
NR pin (7) is included to provide additional low-pass filtering of any noise
generated by the AD588’s buried zener.
It works in conjunction with series
resistor RB, as shown in Fig.1.
Op amp A3 inside IC1 is used as the
positive voltage output buffer, with its
non-inverting input (pin 4) connected
directly to VHI (pin 6). The inverting
input (pin 3) is brought out to the
external positive sense terminal (for
remote sensing) and also to S1a, which
allows it to be connected directly to
the positive output (pin 1) for local
sensing.
Op amp A4 is connected in the
same way, as the negative output
voltage buffer. Here, the op amp’s
non-inverting input (pin 13) is connected directly to the reference cell’s
VLO output (pin 8), while the inverting
input (pin 14) is brought out to the
negative sense terminal for remote
sensing and also to S1b, to connect it
directly to the negative output (pin 15)
for local sensing.
So what is the purpose of the
“optional” trimpot VR1? That is for
trimming the AD588’s output voltage
siliconchip.com.au
15V
+
FER V CD
V51+
+10V OUT
100k
IC1 AD588
TRIM
INT/EXT SENSING
680nF
V 5 115V
68
2200F 25V
S1
+
ZD2
470 F
100nF
D2
4004
D1
4004
LED1
PWR
1.8k
1 diecast aluminium box, 111 x
60 x 54mm (Jaycar HB-5063
or similar)
1 PC board, code 04305091, 84
x 53.5mm
1 DPDT on-on mini toggle switch
(S1)
1 2.5mm PC-mount DC power
socket (CON1)
1 16-pin machined IC socket
2 binding post terminals, red
2 binding post terminals, black
4 M3 x 25mm tapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 6mm screws, countersink
head
4 M3 x 6mm screws, pan head
1 100kΩ 25T top adjust trimpot
(optional – see text)
1 150mm length blue hookup
wire
1 150mm length red hookup wire
1 100mm length 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
N OI SI C E R P
VR1
1.8k
Parts List
+10V SENSE
470 F
100nF
25V
22
CON1
12V AC INPUT
1 92200
0 5 0 3 40F
9002 ©
68
ZD1
0V OUT
0V SENSE
Fig.3: follow this diagram to install the parts on the PC board and
complete the external wiring. Note that switch S1 actually mounts
on the lid of the case and not directly on the PC board – see text.
This view shows
the completed
PC board with
the optional
trimpot (VR1)
in position.
Install VR1 only
if you intend
calibrating the
unit against a
high-precision
10V reference.
to higher precision than its “out of
the box” ±3mV rating. We have made
provision for the trimpot to be added
to the PC board for this purpose but
there is no point in fitting the trimpot
unless you have access to a very high
precision 10V reference.
AD588 availability
That’s about it regarding circuit operation. However, before we move on
to discuss the project’s construction,
a quick word about versions of the
AD588 chip and its availability.
Analog Devices apparently make
five different versions of the AD588,
one in a small outline (SOIC-W) SMD
package and the others in 16-pin ceramic DIL packages. The four CERDIP
devices have different initial error,
Semiconductors
1 AD588AQ or AD588JQ voltage
reference (IC1) – available
from Futurlec (see text)
2 15V 1W zener diode (ZD1,ZD2)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
2 2200μF 25V RB electrolytic
2 470μF 16V RB electrolytic
1 680nF MKT metallised
polyester
2 100nF MKT metallised
polyester
temperature range and temperature
coefficient values. They range from the
AD588BQ with 1mV of initial error, a
-25°C to +85°C range and 1.5ppm/°C
tempco down to the AD588JQ with
3mV of initial error, 0-70°C range and
3ppm/°C tempco. The AD588BQ is
the most expensive (as you would
expect), while the AD588JQ is the
least expensive.
None of the versions of the AD588
seems to be readily available in Australia, especially in one-off quantities.
However, we were able to find one supplier who was able to supply the midrange AD588AQ version (3mV max
initial error, -25°C to +85°C range and
3ppm/°C tempco) for A$28.50 each (at
the time of writing) plus postage. The
supplier concerned is Futurlec, which
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 1.8kΩ
1 22Ω
2 68Ω
is based in Broadmeadow NSW but
does all of its business via the web.
So Futurlec is our recommended
source for the AD588AQ. You can
order this part via their website at
www.futurlec.com (item number AD588JN).
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
2
2
1
Value
1.8kΩ
68Ω
22Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown grey red brown
blue grey black brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown grey black brown brown
blue grey black gold brown
red red black gold brown
May 2009 65
Below: the PC board is “hung” off the lid of the case on M3 x 25mm tapped
metal spacers and secured using M3 x 6mm screws. Note the “extension”
leads attached to the switch terminals. At right is the view inside the case
with the output terminals mounted and wired back to the board.
If you want to build the unit with
the highest possible precision and
performance, this can be done by using
the BQ or KQ versions of the AD588.
You may be able to order these from
Futurlec but be warned: the BQ version
is considerably more expensive than
the AQ version we have specified and
the KQ version is probably much more
expensive as well.
Construction
Apart from the output terminals, virtually all the components are mounted
on a single PC board measuring 84 x
53.5mm and coded 04305091. This fits
inside a diecast aluminium box (111
x 60 x 54mm), which provides both
shielding and physical protection. The
output and remote sensing terminals
are all mounted on one end of the box,
while the internal/external sensing
switch (S1) is mounted directly on the
lid, with short wire leads connecting
it to the PC board – see photos.
The PC board itself is mounted on
the back of the lid and is supported
via four M3 x 25mm tapped metal
spacers. Unlike switch S1, the power
indicator LED (LED1) mounts directly
on the board and protrudes through a
hole in the lid.
Fig.3 shows the parts layout on the
PC board and the external wiring.
Note that trimpot VR1 is optional, as
mentioned earlier. Note also that IC1
should not be soldered directly into
the board but plugged into a highquality 16-pin DIL socket.
Begin the assembly by installing the
single wire link on the board, then fit
the five fixed resistors, followed by the
Voltage Standards: A Brief History
From 1905 to 1972, the national standard
of EMF or voltage used by the USA was the
Weston Cell, a wet chemical primary cell
or “battery” developed in 1893 by Edward
Weston, of Newark in New Jersey. Weston
had improved on an earlier “voltage standard” cell which had been invented by English
engineer Josiah Latimer Clark in 1873. Weston cells were adopted as the International
Standard for EMF/voltage in 1911.
Weston’s cell had a cadmium-mercury
amalgam anode, a pure mercury cathode,
a paste of mercurous sulphate as the depolariser and a saturated solution of cadmium
sulphate as the electrolyte. It was built in an
H-shaped glass container, with the anode at
the bottom of one “leg” and the cathode in
the other leg. The electrical connections to
the two electrodes were made by platinum
wires fused through the glass at the bottom
of the legs.
The Weston cell provided an accurate
1.0183V reference with a very low temperature coefficient – much lower than Clark’s
earlier cell. However, like the Clark cell, it
66 Silicon Chip
could supply virtually no current and could
only be used to provide a reference voltage for high-resistance measuring circuits
like the classical “potentiometer” (a kind of
bridge which compared a known proportion
of an unknown voltage against the reference
voltage, so no current flowed when the two
voltages were “in balance”).
Weston cells were used as the US and
International standards for EMF/voltage
until 1972, when a new standard came
into use: the Josephson Junction Voltage
Standard (JJVS). This operates on a very
different principle: the phenomenon of
quantum-mechanical tunnelling currents
which flow between two weakly coupled
superconductors separated by a very thin
insulating layer.
This is known as a Josephson junction
and the current is known as the Josephson
current – after British physicist Brian David
Josephson who had predicted the effect in
1962. An improved version of the JJVS was
subsequently developed In the 1980s: the
Josephson Array Voltage Standard or JAVS.
By the way, because Josephson junctions
and arrays depend on superconductivity
for their operation, they must be operated
in a liquid nitrogen environment at 77K
(-196°C).
Essentially, a JAVS forms a frequency-tovoltage converter, whose conversion factor
is exactly reproducible (the agreed figure
is 0.4835979GHz/μV). Because frequency
can be measured extremely accurately
using caesium-beam and caesium fountain
standards, the JAVS therefore provides a
practical voltage standard of similar accuracy. In fact, the estimated accuracy of
current JAVS 10.0V voltage standards is
typically quoted as ±0.017ppm.
More information on the Weston Cell can
be found in Weston’s original US patent
(No. 494,827), available on the US Patent
Office website.
Further information on the Josephson
effect, JJVS and JAVS standards can be
found on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Josephson_effect and at http://www.
nist.gov/eee1/
siliconchip.com.au
B
B
70
22.75
44.5
C
15
20.5
E
D
CL
11
22.75
B
B
LID, VIEWED FROM ABOVE
three non-polarised MKT capacitors.
The four electrolytic capacitors can
then go in. Be sure to orientate these
as shown in the overlay diagram and
note that the two 2200μF electros are
mounted on their side, with their leads
bent at right-angles to go through their
respective holes in the PC board.
Follow these parts with diodes D1
& D2 and zener diodes ZD1 & ZD2.
LED1 can then be installed. It mounts
vertically with the bottom of its plastic
body about 22mm above the board surface. Be sure to install all these parts
with the correct orientation.
If you are going to use optional trimpot VR1, it can also now be fitted. It
must be installed with its adjustment
screw at lower left (this is to align it
with the adjustment hole drilled in
the lid).
The PC board assembly can now
be completed by installing the DC
power socket (CON1) and the socket
for IC1. Orientate the socket with its
notched end towards the right, as
shown in Fig.3. Leave IC1 out for the
time being.
Preparing the case
Fig.4 shows the drilling details for
the case. Note that the larger holes are
best made by using a small pilot drill to
start with and then carefully reaming
each hole out to its correct size.
Once you have drilled all the holes,
mount the output terminals in place
and tighten their mounting nuts firmly
to prevent them from later coming
loose. That done, solder a short length
(say 75mm) of insulated hookup wire
to the solder spigot at the rear of each
terminal, ready to make the connections to the PC board.
siliconchip.com.au
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
CL
HOLES A: 9.0mm DIAMETER
HOLES B: 3.0mm DIAMETER, CSK
HOLE C: 5.0mm DIAMETER
HOLE D: 3.0mm DIAMETER
HOLE E: 6.0mm DIAMETER
CL
A
A
16.25
10
A
19
A
A
9.5
LEFT-HAND END OF BOX
9.5
RIGHT-HAND END OF BOX
Fig.4: the drilling details for the case. Use a pilot drill to start the larger holes
then step the up to the correct size using a larger drill and a tapered reamer.
Next, attach the front-panel label
to the lid. This label can be made by
downloading the artwork from the
SILICON CHIP website, printing it out
and then covering it with a protective
self-adhesive transparent film. Attach
the label using a thin smear of silicone
sealant, then cut out the holes using a
sharp hobby knife.
Toggle switch S1 can now be mounted in position on the lid. Tighten its
mounting nut firmly, then fit six 15mm
lengths of tinned copper wire to its
connection lugs (these leads later pass
through their corresponding holes in
the PC board). Loop the end of each
wire through the hole in its switch lug
before soldering, to make sure these
joints can’t come adrift when the outer
ends of the wires are soldered to the
board pads.
The next step is to attach an M3 x
25mm tapped metal spacer to each
corner of the PC board. Secure these
using four M3 x 6mm pan-head machine screws, then install the leads
between the output terminals and
their corresponding PC board pads –
see Fig.3.
IC1 can now be plugged into its
socket. Be sure to orientate it correctly
and make sure that all its pins go into
the socket – ie, not down the outside
of the socket or folded under the IC
itself. The PC board can then be attached to the lid.
Note that the extension wires fitted
to switch S1 must all pass through
their matching holes in the PC board,
while LED1 must pass through its
corresponding hole (C) in the lid.
Secure the board to the lid using four
countersink-head M3 x 6mm screws,
then solder the six switch leads to their
board pads.
The unit can now be completed by
May 2009 67
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68 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
fastening the lid/PC board assembly to
the box using the screws supplied.
Internal & External Sensing Connections
Using it
There are no adjustments to be made
to the Precision Voltage Reference if
you don’t have access to a very high
precision voltage source to calibrate it
against. As stated previously, without
calibration, it will operate with better
than ±3mV precision, as provided by
the AD588AQ chip itself.
In that case, it’s merely a matter of
switching S1 to the internal sensing
position and applying power (12V
AC) to CON1. LED1 should light immediately to show that the unit is
operating and 10.000V ±3mV will
now be available at the upper output
terminals, ready for checking your
DMM or whatever.
This “internal sensing” configuration is the one to use for most simple
jobs like DMM calibration, with the
DMM input leads connecting directly
to the Precision Voltage Reference’s
upper output terminals.
Cable compensation
The only occasions when it’s preferable to use external sensing or “Kelvin
connections” will be when you are
supplying the unit’s voltage to a load
at the end of a cable and the load is
drawing sufficient current to introduce
a significant voltage drop due to the
cable resistance.
In such situations, you’ll need to
extend the output sensing terminals
of the Precision Voltage Reference to
+OUT
10.00
+SENSE
INT
DC VOLTS
EXT
SENSING
DMM
–OUT
–
–SENSE
+
PRECISION VOLTAGE REFERENCE
A LOCAL MEASUREMENT, INTERNAL SENSING
DMM
LONG CABLES
10.00
DC VOLTS
+OUT
+SENSE
INT
EXT
SENSING
–
LOAD
–SENSE
PRECISION VOLTAGE REFERENCE
B REMOTE MEASUREMENT, EXTERNAL 'KELVIN' SENSING
Fig.5: how to connect the Precision DC Voltage Reference for both local (A)
and remote (B) measurements (the latter compensates for cable losses).
the load end of the cable via a second
pair of leads as shown in Fig.5. Then
S1 is switched to the external sensing
position, so that the AD588 senses the
output voltage right at the load end of
the cable rather than at its own end.
As a result it will maintain the load
voltage at the correct 10.000V, compensating for the cable drop.
All of the foregoing also applies if
you build the unit with trimpot VR1
and/or use an AD588BQ/KQ for higher
precision. The only complication in
these latter situations is that you’ll
need to compare the output of the
Precision DC Voltage Reference with
a higher precision source and adjust
VR1 to trim its output as close as possible to 10.0000V before you can put
SC
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May 2009 69
WHY CALIBRATE
your
TEST EQUIPMENT?
During preparation of the Precision Voltage
Reference project elsewhere in this issue, we
consulted with Trio Smartcal on the subject of
calibration. This article gives a brief overview.
By TONY TONG
You have invested in test equipment
to allow you to measure something.
It could be a multimeter to measure a
power supply voltage, an oscilloscope
to measure waveform amplitude or
a spectrum analyser to measure RF
power at a given frequency, etc. In
any of these cases the big question is
“how important is the result you get
from your test equipment to you and
your company?”
Many people consider calibration
to be a necessary evil. However the
implications and cost of using an inaccurate item of test equipment can be
much greater.
For example, let’s take a production maintenance technician who is
troubleshooting electronic control systems. Typically his multimeter has
not been checked since new (several
years ago) and has had a hard life in
his toolbox, being dropped a few times.
It now reads 5% low.
He is checking a control board for
the manufacturing line and is checking the 5V board supply which has a
tolerance of ±5% but it happens to be
faulty and is high by 7%. The board
is acting erratically but his meter tells
him the supply is OK, comfortably
inside tolerance. The technician then
spends another four hours looking
70 Silicon Chip
elsewhere for the problem. Not only
does this cost the company money for
his time but production has been down
for four more hours and this cost the
company $40,000 in lost output.
In a recent case here at TRIO Smartcal, we had a customer who was
setting up CCTV systems. He owned
a well-respected brand of TV signal
generator, about three years old. He
never suspected it to output anything
other than the specified signals. He
had set up several hundred systems in
the last year and felt that his waveform
monitor (not the signal generator) was
out of spec because it was not showing
the picture he expected.
We performance-verified the monitor and found it was well within spec.
It turned out that the signal generator
was out of spec instead and he had
probably set up every system incorrectly for at least the last year; not what
he wanted to hear!
Any measuring instrument should
have its performance verified regularly
if it is going to be used to measure
something that you rely on. And
regularly does not mean annually, as
many people believe. However most
test equipment manufacturers do recommend annual performance verification. The cost of verifying performance
and calibrating can be quite small compared to the cost of rectifying problems
caused by faulty measurements from
inaccurate equipment.
So, how do we minimise the cost
of calibration? There are several ways
and one or more may be applicable to
your situation:
(1) IDENTIFY WHICH items of your
equipment need to be calibrated.
This sounds obvious but often equipment that has been superseded or
not required for current operations is
still being calibrated every year, just
because no-one has looked into what
is required. Items that are not to be
calibrated should be labelled “Accuracy Not Verified – Do not use to verify
performance”.
(2) YOU CAN USE your calibrated
equipment to check your non-calibrated equipment, provided that the
calibrated equipment specifications
are typically 4-10 times better than the
un-calibrated item. This is called the
Test Uncertainty Ratio (TUR). Measure the parameter with the calibrated
equipment and then verify that the
non-calibrated units indicate similar
readings. This will increase confidence in the non-calibrated equipment
without increasing calibration costs.
More info on TUR can be found at
http://www.agilent.com/metrology/
uncert.shtml
(3) FIND OUT if your calibration
provider offers various levels of
calibration and select the best fit
for your equipment. If you run a
laboratory doing calibration work
for your customers or your lab is
NATA-accredited, then you will need
siliconchip.com.au
a full NATA report. This is an expensive option but you get a test report
from an accredited lab.
If you need to comply with ISO9001,
then a traceable calibration with data
is all you need. For those instruments
where you like to know they are within
specification but don’t need the full
traceable calibration with data, then
a Performance Verification or “Mini
Cal” is a lower cost option.
(4) YOU CAN EXTEND the calibration
interval. This applies if you have an
instrument which has been calibrated
annually for many years with good
tracking records to its performance.
Then you can make use the past data
reports, to identify several key measurements, extract them from the report
into a spreadsheet and graph them
against the published specification
limits. This will allow you to predict
the rate of drift.
Armed with this information, you
can confidently set extended calibration intervals. An example is a meter
with a specification limit of 1% as
a 1-year specification. Its initial cal
data shows it to be -0.5%, the next cal
shows the error to be 0%. The third
cal shows the error as +0.5%. Hence,
the drift is +0.5% per year so we can
expect it to be out of specification at
siliconchip.com.au
the next calibration interval.
If the drift was only .025%, we
could predict six years (from -0.5%
to +1.0%) drift and extend the calibration interval accordingly. If you
buy an instrument that comes with a
factory “cal-report” you already have
one of the reference points needed to
predict drift.
Doubling the calibration interval
would halve your costs for calibrating
this item without impacting on the
quality of the measurement.
(5) TAKE OUT a calibration contract. It
is often possible to take out a calibration contract with your service provider. This is normally taken for 1-3
years and discounts are available for
equipment quantity and for length of
contract. You may also get additional
benefits, including fixed prices for the
contract period.
You also reduce the delays and internal cost of creating multiple purchase
orders and billing events. This also
improves the turnaround times due to
the elimination of delays for quoting
and sending purchase orders. It also
allows the annual calibration costs to
be budgeted more accurately, which
improves your expenses forecasting.
(6) TAKE OUT LIMITED calibration.
This allows you to match your instru-
ment’s verified performance to only
that which you need. You do not pay
for calibration tests you do not require.
A case in point was an RF signal generator used in a laboratory. It was used
in a test rack to perform only one test
yet the user was getting a full calibration done every year.
When the generator was tested
for only the required signal, the cost
dropped by 75%. This was without
compromising the traceability or
quality for the measurements needed
for the specified task. All that was required was a label indicating that the
instrument had a limited calibration.
Supplementary information concerning limited calibration of the unit
should be made available for a person
who uses it.
(7) FINALLY, YOU CAN arrange to
have an expert from your calibration
provider visit your facility. He can
recommend ways to reduce your calibration costs and to improve measurement quality. There is usually a charge
for this service which is waived if you
proceed with a calibration contract/
plan.
For further information or a quote
for calibration contact Trio Smartcal
on 1300 134 091. www.triosmartcal.
SC
com.au
May 2009 71
Give your circuit
that PROFESSION
When it comes to contributed projects or circuits, there are
few things more frustrating than finding the circuit has been
drawn (apparently) by “a thumbnail dipped in tar” – or near
equivalent. Here’s an easy way to make them look good!
N
ot only do poorly presented
circuit diagrams increase the
likelihood of errors, they also
make it more difficult to understand
the basic circuit operation.
And if those at SILICON CHIP cannot understand it, how are readers
going to?
The Editor will be much more impressed by a neatly laid out diagram
with standardised symbols, all components at right-angles and all the
components in scale.
How do you do it?
Many years ago Protel had a circuit
drawing package called Schematic.
Unfortunately it was less than acceptable – the frustration and poor results
with this program prompted me to
think about an alternative.
The one I use might sound a little
unusual at first glance. It’s the Protel
Autotrax PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
layout package which of course is
intended to lay out PC boards. But
I find gives excellent results when
drawing circuits – and as a bonus is
quite easy to use.
An even bigger bonus is that it won’t
cost you anything. Now well and truly
superseded, Protel Autotrax can be
downloaded free from www.altium.
com/altium/altiumsite/community/
downloads/altium-freeware-enduser-license-agreement/en/autotrax.cfm
If you find entering all that a bit
daunting, simply go to www.altium.
com and go to the “community” tab,
thence “downloads”!
This program was covered quite
thoroughly (mainly in its normal PC
board layout mode) in the February,
March & April 2004 editions of SILICON
CHIP. So I won’t go into all that detail
again but will cover aspects of using
it as a circuit drawing program.
Briefly, though, you need to know
that Protel Autotrax has two parts – the
first, the part you actually “draw” with,
is called TRAXEDIT.EXE. When you
want to print out your masterpiece,
you’ll need the second part, called
TRAXPLOT.EXE.
However, be warned: as Autotrax
is getting pretty long in the tooth (it’s
Which one looks better?
This one or the one on
the right? Unfortunately,
the example at left is
a positive masterpiece
compared to some which
we see!
72 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
diagrams
NAL look!
been around since the 1980s) video
and printer drivers can be problematic.
In fact, we seldom use Traxplot – at
SILICON CHIP we work mostly with
EPS (encapsulated Postscript) files and
use a little utility called “GRABEPS”
which converts Autotrax (*.PCB) files
directly into *.EPS files.
Grabeps can be downloaded from
www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
Will Autotrax
work on
XP and VISTA?
Being a DOS-based program,
Protel Autotrax performs best on a
computer operating under DOS.
However, that is not to say it
won’t operate under a Windows
command prompt because, in most
cases, it certainly will.
We have had no major problems
using Protel Autotrax on PCs running Windows 98, 2000, ME and
XP. As Rick Walters has mentioned
in this article, drivers for particular
printers and video cards might be
something of a problem; however
(so far!) not for us.
You might have noticed that the
list above doesn’t mention Windows
Vista. This is a whole new ballgame
because it works quite differently to
the earlier operating systems.
Unfortunately we haven’t had
the opportunity to test Autotrax on
Vista before going to press (like
many organisations, our computers
primarily operate under Windows
XP).
There is a fair amount of discussion on the net about operating old
DOS programs under Vista – the
majority suggest that using a program called DOSBox (or several
similar programs) will allow you to
use most DOS-based software on
a Vista machine.
by
Rick
Walters
find the folder labelled SCHEMATI
in the May 2009 section and click or
double-click on it. It will open, showing a single zipped file. Download and
save it to c:\schemati.
You will need to unzip them before
use – in the majority of cases, doubleclicking on a *.ZIP file will bring up
the appropriate unzip utility – but if it
doesn’t, there are numerous zip/unzip
utilities which you can download from
the web.
Before you start
Firstly we need a dedicated directory which I have (for obvious reasons) called SCHEMATI (DOS-based
programs cannot use directory or file
names with more than eight characters).
If you don’t know how to create a directory (now also called folders), check
the side panel. Create your directory
and call it SCHEMATI or whatever
8-letter name you desire.
It should now appear listed alphabetically under the C: drive. We have
placed all the files you will need in a
directory called SCHEMATI. Log onto
www.siliconchip.com.au/downloads
Drawing a circuit
Drawing a circuit, especially a large
and/or detailed one, is not a simple
task. Some of the larger ones you see
in SILICON CHIP may take many hours,
or even days, to draw.
As well as showing the interconnections between the various devices
the drawing tries to group relevant
components in reasonably close proximity, as well as tending to flow from
left to right with inputs on the left and
outputs on the right.
The area where this often does not
hold true is that we tend to bring power
+5V/+18V
100nMc
100nMc
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Q12
Q13
16
Vcc
16
Q10
IC1
4060
Q14
2
13
Q6
R
Q5
CKin
CKO1
Q4
1
14
Q8
Q9
Q7
15
CKO2
16
IC2A
C
4518
CE
12
8
Q0
Q1
Q2
R
11
100u
100nMc
Q3
3
4
9
5
10
IC2B
C
Q1
CE
Q2
6
R
15
7
Q0
Q3
11
12
1
13
2
IC3A
C
4518
CE
Q1
Q2
14
8
Q0
R
7
Q3
3
Q0
4
9
5
10
C
IC3B
CE
Q1
Q2
6
R
15
Q3
11
12
13
14
10
9
E
22k
8
200Hz
1k
100Hz
10Hz
RESET
1Hz
0.1Hz
10M
3.2768MHz
TITLE
22p
270p X1
siliconchip.com.au
10p
SIMPLE FREQUENCY DIVIDER
A4H NUMBER
SIZE
DATE 040212 FILE
FDIV1
REV
0
DRAWN R.W.
May 2009 73
Protel Autotrax key commands
As an (old!) DOS program, Autotrax relies extensively
on keyboard commands instead of mouse clicks. Actually,
this works rather well, especially as you get more skilled
in using the program. Most of the letter codes are prettymuch self explanatory. The commands in red are the ones
you’ll use the most for circuits (you can virtually ignore
the rest unless, of course, you’re drawing PC boards!)
How they work
Typing the first character (as shown in bold below)
brings up the options list (which follows). For example,
when you type b (block) you will see a number of options. When you type the second letter, particular option
is invoked.
So bd would be block define (ie, tell Autotrax where the
block is), bm would be block move and so on. br (block
read) and bw (block write) allow you to save a block as a
file and read it back as a component. This is useful where,
for example, you may have six seven segment decoders
driving six LED displays. You draw it once, write it out to
a file, then read it back five times and place it.
The Autotrax commands
b block – allows you to “block off” areas of your diagram and do something with them: d define,
h hide, m move, c copy, i inside delete,
o outside delete, r read, w write.
c current – gives a list of the current setup
d delete – a arc, c component, f fill,
h highlight, p pad, s string, t track, v via
e edit – a arc, c component, p pad, s string,
t track, v via
f file – l load, s save, q quit, plus many more
g grid – s snap: 25, v visible: 100
h highlight – c connection, d duplicate, r reset
i information – c dimensions, c components, plus
others
j jump (to) – c component, c location, c net,
o origin, p pad, s string
l library – a add, b browse, c compact,
d delete, e explode, f file, l list, m merge,
n new, r rename
m move – a arc, b break, c component, d drag
end, f fill, p pad, s string, t track, v via
p place – a arc, c component, f fill, p pad,
s string, t track, v via
s setup – all the options for drawing, already setup for
you
u undelete – allows undeletes from 1 up
z zoom – see S PgUp and T PgDn below
Four arrow keys move the cursor in 25-thou steps
S (Page Up) – Zoom around mouse position
T (Page Down) – Shrink around mouse position
+ (Plus on keypad) – steps through Track Colours –
Red - Yellow - Brown
- (Minus on Keypad) – steps in reverse direction
to +
74 Silicon Chip
in on the right hand side.
An additional benefit of Autotrax is that the IC pins are
numbered with the pin function near the number. This
prevents transcription errors when going from an IC data
book to draft circuit to final circuit.
We will explain how to draw the Simple Frequency Divider Circuit on page 72. Start the program by clicking (or
double-clicking) on the “Traxedit” shortcut in the Schemati
folder. The shortcut tells Windows to run the program in
a window but it actually boots to full screen.
Once TRAXEDIT is loaded it appears on the opening
screen as AUTOTRAX with “Press a key to continue”.
Having pressed, you are presented with a light grey screen
with a grid of white dots.
Across the bottom of the screen (similar to the Windows
Taskbar) is a yellow bar with letters and numbers similar
to the following:
X:2000 – Y:1200 mils – L:Top Layer – a block of colour –
P:Round 50 – T:20 – S:60 – G:25.
In order these mean:
X and Y show the mouse co-ordinates at startup,
L is the layer you are working on,
The block of colour (Red, Brown or Yellow) indicates the
colour of the track you will draw on the screen,
P indicates the pad type and size,
T is the track width,
S is the string size and
G is the grid step.
If you are using the bottom layer, the yellow block of
colour melts into the yellow background, so you won’t be
able to see it.
You will note that after the Y position is the word mils,
which means 1/1000 of an inch, usually abbreviated to
“thou.” (however, for clarity, we generally leave the full
stop out – ie, “thou”).
Even with metrication, most components are based on an
imperial measurement – all through-hole ICs, for example,
have pins 100-mils (0.1”) apart.
Below the X: as you select functions a prompt will appear to assist you.
Drawing a circuit is much the same as “drawing” a PC
board pattern. Instead of pads and physical components,
you select circuit symbols. You join them using very fine
“tracks”, as you would the PC board pads etc.
The first step in drawing a circuit is to define the area in
which we can operate. While Autotrax allows the use of a
mouse it is far quicker to use a combination of the mouse
and keyboard keys.
In the following description (selecting a library) using a
mouse we would click the mouse, move to Library, click
the mouse, move to File and click. Using the keyboard we
would type (Library File).
In both cases the loaded library file will show but it is
obvious which is more efficient and usually much quicker.
Selecting a library
Type lf (or click the mouse as above). Normally we
will use SCHEMATI.LIB. If you can’t remember the library
name, press the keyboard question mark then K and
the libraries will be displayed.
At this stage you only have two, IC.LIB and SCHEMATI.
LIB. Select SCHEMATI.LIB. Type (Place Component)
then type (a horizontal A4 page).
siliconchip.com.au
This screen
grab shows
what you will
see running
Autotrax.
The type of
information
you get
on screen
(bottom strip)
is explained
in the text.
The nearlycompleted
circuit
diagram is
that which is
shown in its
printed-out
form on P73.
Every time you place a component you are asked for a
COMPONENT DESIGNATOR then a COMMENT. For this
component we want neither, so just press K, which gives
you a blank. Locate the A4H outline at 0,0 then press K,
then right click or press P (escape). Now type (Library Explode). The prompt on the bottom line will read
SELECT COMPONENT.
Move the mouse into the rectangle then click or press
K. This will leave a brown outline of the A4 page area
in which our circuit will need to be contained. You will
be asked to confirm.
We explode the library item to turn it into primitives
which means that Autotrax sees the brown outline as just
that and not a component, otherwise we would end up with
a lot of components inside a component and a myriad of
problems. Right click or press P to exit LE.
ESC
ESC
Placing the title block
Next we place the title block but before we do so you
need to zoom the active display, so press the S key on
the keypad twice. This should just about fill the screen
with the brown surround. Press pc (Place Component)
then overtype A4H with TITLE. Again no designator or
comment!
Move it where you prefer it. It’s normal practice to
place it at the bottom right (as you can see). We will come
back and enter some details later but let's keep placing
components.
Placing components
Overtype TITLE with CAP. Again, if you don’t know the
name of the component type a question mark, then press
K. A list of components will be displayed. My approach
is to keep the component name as short as possible, as long
as it is recognisable and identifiable.
Why waste time and effort typing CAPACITOR when CAP
will do? (But don’t be caught using names like “trans” – it
could be a transistor, a transformer, a transducer, a transmogrifier, a transcombobulator . . .)
siliconchip.com.au
As this is the first capacitor we type c1 for the component designator, then press K. For comment we type the
value of the capacitor, 100nmc for a 100nF monolithic
ceramic & press K.
The capacitor symbol will appear and can be moved
about with the mouse. A left click will place it. Repeat
Creating a directory (folder) in XP
Click or double-click (depending on how your computer
is set up) on the My Computer shortcut on your desktop. Click or double-click again on the C: drive (mine is
called WINDOWS_XP) but yours will possibly be named
differently. Click on FOLDERS to divide the screen.
Move the mouse to a blank area on the right hand panel
and Right-click. Move down to NEW, pause a moment,
then across and up to FOLDER. Left-click and a folder
called “New Folder” will be created. While New Folder is
hilighted blue, type SCHEMATI. This name should now
appear alphabetically listed in the left hand panel under
C:
Close My Computer.
Creating a shortcut to schematic
Click or double-click (depending on how your computer
is set up) on the My Computer shortcut on your desktop.
Click or double-click again on the C: drive (mine is called
WINDOWS_XP) but yours will probably be named differently. Find the SCHEMATI directory you have created.
Click on it to open it and the files will be listed in the right
hand panel. Hover over those named TRAXEDIT and find
the one that is TRAXEDIT with no suffix (blue bar at top
with XP). The size should be 170kB. Right click and move
to SEND TO then move to DESKTOP and click. It will be
named SHORTCUT TO TRAXEDIT. You can rename it if
you wish by right clicking and moving to Rename.
May 2009 75
the sequence twice. The capacitors will be sequentially
numbered and the description repeated. Next we will place
the electrolytic, so instead of CAP overtype electro.
It will need to be designated C4, as we have changed the
component type, and the comment will be 100u.
Now place the other three capacitors (CAP) 22p, 270p
and 10p. The crystal identity is XTAL, the designator X1,
the comment 3.2768MHz.
Rotating a component
You will notice that both the crystal and the 270pF
capacitor are rotated by 90° – but we don’t use special
components.
If placing the component, pressing the spacebar will
rotate it 90°; if it is already placed press mc (Move Component), click on it, then press the spacebar. Each press
rotates the component by 90° so four presses brings it back
to where you started!
Next place the three resistors. Their identity is RES,
the first designator R1 and the comment 1k, then 10M &
22k respectively. As previously explained, there are two
libraries: IC.LIB and SCHEMATI.LIB.
We have been using the SCHEMATI library but to place
ICs we have to use the IC library as there is a limit to the
number of components that a library can hold. Right click
to release PC then type lf (Library File), press K & C:\
SCHEMATI\SCHEMATI.LIB will show. Type ic, then
press K.
There is no need for the .LIB suffix but you may include
it if you wish. If you type ll (Library List) you will get a
list of all the ICs in the library. Press K to exit LL.
Placing integrated circuits
We wish to pc (Place Component) 4060, designator
IC1, comment 4060. Position it towards the LHS (you can
always move it later). Now PC 4518A, IC2A, 4518 to the
right of IC1. PC 4518B IC2B, (blank) to the right of IC2A.
Where an IC consists of two or more elements within
the one package (as in the 4518 above which is a dual
decade counter) I make it a practice to only identify the A
element with the type number. If you label them all, then
at a quick glance you might count four 4518s in the circuit
instead of two.
Repeat the layout for IC3A & IC3B. Your ICs will not be
numbered or identified. Press P, then ec (Edit Component).
ESC
Identifying integrated circuits
Click on IC1 the 4060, click on DESIGNATOR in the
panel, K, move down to HIDE, click, move to SHOW and
click. Follow with three right clicks or three Ps. IC1 will
now be displayed above 4060.
Do the same for IC2A & B and IC3A & B.P from EC and
type ms (move String). Ensure the task bar displays yellow then click on IC1 and position it to between Q12 &
Q13. Position 4060 between Q13 & Q14. Then move and
position the titles for IC2 & IC3.
You can identify any component but I usually don’t
identify resistors, capacitors and other miscellaneous bits.
Now all the ICs are placed we need to go back to our
SCHEMATI.LIB so press P (or right click) to get out of
Move String then lf, SCHEMATI.LIB then K.
We now have to place 13 ground symbols (GND) and nine
ESC
ESC
ESC
76 Silicon Chip
jumpers (JMP) but these are best left until later. For the best
appearance, ensure all the tops of the ICs are on the same
Y grid (ours is 4100). If not type mc (move component)
then move the mouse to the inside of the component and
click. Move it to the required location and click to lock it
in place. You are again prompted by the taskbar.
NOTE! You can only move components when the red or
yellow colour bar is displayed on the taskbar. They will
not move if the brown bar is showing.
Drawing the connections
Connections between components (remember, we are
using “tracks”) are always drawn in red. Draw the trace
from IC1/3 to IC2/2. If you are still in move component
mode, press P (or right click), ensure that you have the
red bar in the taskbar then type pt (Place Track). The
track width has been set to 20 thou in the initial setup you
downloaded and the visible grid to 100 thou The actual
step increment using the mouse or the four arrow keys on
the keyboard is 25 thou.
Move your mouse to the line from pin 3 and click. Move
the mouse to the left until you reach the grid then click
again, move the mouse vertically until you hit the grid
again, click, across, click, down, click then across to pin 2
of IC2A, click. Now press P (or right click). This disconnects the track from the mouse. You may need to zoom to
the area you are working in (plus key on keyboard).
Next move the mouse to IC1 pin 12, click and draw the
track to IC2 pin 7, clicking each time you want to change
direction. Right click to decouple the track from the mouse.
If you have previously laid out PC boards using Autotrax
these instructions will be instinctive.
Now join IC2b pin 15 to the junction of IC1/12 and IC2/7
and then to IC3/7 and IC3/15. Connect IC2A/3 to IC2B/10,
IC2A/14 to IC3/2 and IC3/6 to IC3/10.
Now draw the supply rail at the top of the ICs. Start at
the left and click to go towards IC1/16. Stop 50 thou past
the grid dot, then right click to break the track, move the
mouse down 100 thou and draw the track to the IC. Go back
up and join the pin 16s on IC2 and IC3, then continue the
track towards the right hand side. Right click twice (once
to release the track, the second to exit from PT) then type
pc (place component).
Placing miscellaneous components
Type join (K) accept its ID (K) and ensure the
comment is blank (K) them move your mouse to the sup-
ply line above IC1/16. Click and a dot will appear.
Move the mouse above IC2A/16 and click three times,
then place it. Another three clicks in the same vertical
plane as 100Hz and place, then three clicks and so on, for
each join. Next the four on the reset line, then the four on
the CE (clock enable) inputs. Knowing you need three for
the crystal area place three at random there.
The jumpers are placed in a similar manner. Type pc ,
when you see JOIN displayed type jmp (jumper). Place
the nine jumpers in like manner making sure the tracks
run right up to the start of the arc. The reason for this will
be explained shortly. Finally place the six ARROWS. They
will initially point to the right, so the RESET one will need
one press of the SPACEBAR to rotate it 90°, the others will
need three presses (270°). The COMMENT for each arrow
is 200Hz, 100Hz etc.
siliconchip.com.au
Using mc (move component) place the resistors, capacitors and crystal (click on each component, move it,
then click again to place it) in their correct locations. Now
draw the connections to pins 10 and 11 in IC1. The ground
symbol is GND so these (13) can now be placed and the
tracks drawn.
Checking the layout
To check your circuit for continuity and connections
place the mouse on the +5V/18V arrow and type hn
(highlight Net). All the Pin 16s should be connected.
The connections are obvious on this simple circuit but
in a complex one it is much harder to check. Place the
mouse on IC1 pin 3 and type hn. The track should be
continuous to 200Hz following the jumper. This is why
you need to take the track right up to the jumper arc to
ensure continuity.
Filling in the title block
Type ps (Place String), type simple freq
uency divider, click and move it to the title
space, then click to release it. The text will be too small (60
thou) so et (Edit Text) and try 80. Still a bit too small?
90 should just fit. Type a4h and move it to the SIZE
window, then fill in REV(ISION), DATE and DRAWN. File
is the name you will use to save the circuit.
If you use Autotrax to lay out your PC boards ensure that
the circuits are saved in the SCHEMATI directory and the
PC boards in a different directory, as both have the suffix
PCB and if you give them the same name (which is logical)
and put them in the same directory, one will overwrite
the other.
Creating a component
While you have a wide range of components available
you will probably need additional items in due course.
As an example, in the January 2009 issue of SILICON CHIP,
John Clarke used a 12F6754/P microprocessor. We don’t
have one in the library, but looking at the device it is an
8-pin integrated circuit similar to a PIC08. So we would
“create” a new IC using that.
Move the mouse to blank area of the screen, (making
sure you have IC LIB selected) type pc (Place Component)
PIC08 then press P or (right click). Then le (Library Explode), confirm yes. Press the plus key until you see Top
Overlay and the red or brown bar change to yellow (bottom
centre of screen). Type ds (Delete String), selecting each
description in turn. Next type ms (Move String) then
select and place the pin numbers in the correct position.
Finally type ps (Place String). The top left corner
displays what you are typing. Pressing K places the text
under the control of the mouse. Locate it and click to lock
ESC
1
Vcc
2
7
P00/SO
P-08
3
6
P04
P01
4
SI
P03
Gnd
8
P02
5
1
4
Vdd ---MCLR
5
6
GP2
GP1
12F6754/P
3
AN3
7 GPO
GP5 2
Vss
8
Creating a component is usually
much easier if you modify an
existing one. Don’t forget to
rename it!
siliconchip.com.au
Printing your circuit
In the drive for bigger, better and bloated programs,
support for old DOS-based software and printers is rapidly
(and probably not unreasonably) disappearing. Protel was
written to interface to brands of serial and parallel printers
which were popular at that time but now obsolete. Most
desktop computers and some laptops still have a parallel
output port but not for much longer, as new motherboards
are phasing it out. In a recent magazine issue only four
of the ten units reviewed had a parallel port.
If you have a parallel port on your computer and you
own an HP deskjet printer with parallel input, you are
ready to roll.
Protel’s output program is called Traxplot.You can create
a shortcut to it as we described for Traxedit. It appears that
all HP deskjets support laser 300 DPI (HP640c, HP649c
& HP948c all do) and the plot setup is for these printers.
My old HP649c packed up recently and on the advice of
my cartridge supplier, I went to the local Salvation Army
depot and purchased both an HP640c and an HP948c.
They were quite expensive though: $5.00 each with both
black & colour cartridges fairly full!
The print parameters are set up, so pressing fl (File
Load) will give you C:\SCHEMATI\*.PCB. Press ENTER
and select FDIV1.PCB. The file will load. Press P (escape)
o get back to the FILE menu then move down to print.
Press P or click. You will be asked to confirm PRINT, so
click or press y. A few seconds later you should have a
printout of your masterpiece.
If you don’t have an HP printer various other methods of printing were discussed in the April 2004 issue.
An updated version of Ghostscript has recently been
released.
it in place. If you want to move any strings then ms and
click will let you place them.
Once you are satisfied type bd (Block Define). Click
and move the mouse diagonally to encompass the device
and click. You are now asked for a reference point. For this
device I would use the left tip of the wire from GP2 and a
similar place for all ICs.
When placing the device in a circuit the mouse is located
at the reference point and you should always put this point
on a grid dot. Having defined the block it has to be saved
to the library. Type la (Library Add). You will be asked
for a name, then Autotrax checks to ensure this is not a
duplicate name then asks you to confirm the new name.
Before deleting the block place the new component and
make sure you are happy with it. Then type dc (Delete
Component) and click on the one just placed (unless you
plan to use it), then type bi (Block Inside Delete) and
confirm Yes, then when asked “all layers”, type a (ie,
biya).
Backup File
Protel periodically backs up the file you are working
on. With a modern computer it happens so quickly you
are unaware of the save. The file is named TRAXEDIT.
ABK. (which stands for AutoBacKup). Should you have a
computer crash, lockup or a power failure, once you are
running again, delete the file you were working on (FDIV1.
PCB) or rename it (FDIV1.BAK) then rename TRAXEDIT.
May 2009 77
So what do WE use?
We are often asked which software we use to draw
SILICON CHIP circuit diagrams.
We use Corel Draw but don’t use Corel’s symbols.
We have an extensive component library which we have
drawn up over many years (in fact, we created the Corel
Draw library from the pen-and-ink component library
which we drew when we started the magazine).
As we imply above, Corel Draw does contain its own
electronic component symbol library (among many other
libraries). There is nothing wrong with using this library
if you want to – we just believe ours looks much better!
The latest version of Corel Draw (X4) is a fairly expensive package (~$500-$800 or more, depending where
you get it) but we’ve seen earlier versions (eg V11)
legitimately downloadable from the net for very cheap
prices (eg, $US60!) – and you’d be able to do almost as
much with an earlier version.
ABK as FDIV1.PCB. When loaded, you will see that you
have only lost a few minutes’ work. If you wish you can
load each of the files and compare them.
Bill of Materials (BOM.EXE)
Once you have finished drawing your circuit you can
generate a bill of materials – or what we would call a parts
list. The Simple Frequency Divider circuit produced the
following BOM. It has been compressed to take less space.
78 Silicon Chip
_______________________________________________
FDIV1.PCB 9:21 9-1-2009 Bill of Material Summary
Page : 1
DESCRIPTION QUAN. COMPONENT DESIGNATOR(S)
43
A1
A2
A3
A4
A5 A7
A8
A9 A10
A11 A12 A13 A14 A15
A16 A17 A18 A19 A20
A21 A22 A23 A28 A29
A31 A32 A33 A34 A35
A36 A37 A38 A39 A40
A41 A42 A43 A45 A46
A48 A49 IC2B IC3B
+5V/+18V 1
A30
0.1HZ
1
A27
1HZ
1
A26
1K
1
R1
3.2768MHZ 1
X1
10HZ
1
A25
10M
1
R2
10P
1
C7
22K
1
R3
22P
1
C5
100HZ
1
A24
100NMC
3
C1
C2
C3
100U
1
C4
200HZ 1
A47
270P
1
C6
4060
1
IC1
4518
2
IC2A IC3A
RESET
1
A44
Obviously we can extract the components (R, C, X & IC)
SC
from the list.
siliconchip.com.au
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National broadband company Internode
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Basslink fibre-optic cable to significantly
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feature in September 2008 SILICON CHIP).
The Basslink deal increases Internode’s
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150 Grenfell Street Adelaide, SA 5000
Tel: 13 66 33 Fax: 1300 396 633
Website: www.internode.on.net
Store’N’Go micro USB flash drives from Verbatim
Verbatim’s new Store ‘n’ Go Micro USB
drives provide storage of up to 8GB of data.
Measuring only 30mm long, 12mm wide and
2mm thick, the drives weigh a miniscule 1.2
grams and are designed to be attached to a
key ring, PDA or cell phone, enabling data
to be carried with unlitmate convenience.
The new drives come in a range of vibrant
colours and are available now in capacities of
2GB (orange), 4GB (green) and 8GB (purple).
Priced from $13.95, they offer read and
write speeds of up to 30MB/sec and 13MB/
sec for the 4GB and 8GB devices and up
Tektronix NZ Distributors
In our review of the new Tektronix DPO/
MSO2000 mixed-signal oscilloscope last
month (P76), we neglected to mention
that Nichecom are the Tektronix distributors in New Zealand.
So for our NZ readers, you don’t have
to make that overseas call – contact
Nichecom in Wellington and they will
be glad to assist!
Contact:
Nichecom Ltd
1 Lincoln Ave, Tawa, Wellington 5028 NZ
Tel: (04) 232 3233
email: tektronix<at>nichecom.co.nz
siliconchip.com.au
to 19MB/sec and 9MB/sec for the 2GB
device.
To achieve capacities of 2, 4 and 8GB
in such an ultra-small, ultra-portable form
factor, Verbatim Store ‘n’ Go Micro USB
drives feature new system-in-package (SIP)
technology. SIP technology encapsulates all
of the electronic components into a single
miniaturised and sealed unit. As a result,
the tiny drives resist water, dust, physical
shock, electrostatic discharge (ESD) and
are small enough and tough enough to take
almost anywhere.
Contact:
Verbatim Australia
6 Weir St, Glen Iris, Vic 3146
Tel: (03) 9823 0999 Fax: (03) 9824 7011
Website: www.verbatim.com.au
Mornsun’s 78-series
replacements
Mornsun’s
K78xx-500 &
K78xx-1000
series are the
latest generation of high efficiency switching
regulators, ideally suited to replace
the LM78 linear series (they are pincompatible).
The K78 series are a single output
DC/DC converter with a super-wide
input range (about 6.5~32 VDC). Outputs are 3.3V, 5V, 6.5V, 9V, 12V and
15V, with 500mA rated output current
(78xx-500) and 1A (K78xx-1000). Efficiency is up to 96%.
With short-circuit, over temperature protection, the versatile series
is the perfect replacement of LM78
series, with high power density, very
low ripple/noise and mini profile (SIP3 package). The manufacturers claim
there is no need for any heatsinks.
The K78 series can convert positive to negative voltage only by connected two capacitors.
In a nutshell, the K78 series offer
superior security, higher efficiency,
better performance and wider applications.
Contact:
Digital Linear & Passive Compon.
8 Manor Dve, Wellington Pt, Qld 4160
Tel: (07) 3207 1398 Fax: (07) 3207 5160
Website: www.dlpc.com.au
Stainless Steel Pressure Transmitters
The NP-430A series of stainless steel Electrical connecpressure transmitters from Ocean Controls tion is Packard type.
has been developed for general industrial ap- The wetted parts are
plications including refrigeration technology. stainless steel with a
It can be used with most gases, excluding ceramic diaphragm
and Nitrile NBR Oammonia. Protection is IP67.
Pressure ranges are from 0.2-120bar ring.
Unit price is $149
with an accuracy better than 1% FS. Response time is less than 10ms (up to 99%) +GST.
It can stand 150% FS
overload, with rupture Contact:
Ocean Controls
pressure 300% FS.
Power supply is 12- 3/24 Wise Ave, Seaford Vic 3198
28VDC, with 2-wire sig- Tel: (03) 9782 5882 Fax: (03) 9782 5517
nal output of 4-20mA. Website: www.oceancontrols.com.au
May 2009 79
UHF Remote Dual 2
If you’re looking for a mains “switch” which can be operated from
some distance away, this low-cost, simple project could be just what
you want. With a UHF remote control and two switched “channels”,
it needs very little power thanks to the use of latching relays.
T
here are countless applications – especially with colder
weather coming on – where it
would be nice to turn mains devices
on and off remotely.
Imagine being able to switch something on and off without having to go
close to it – outside in the wind and
rain, for example. Imagine being able
to control two devices, completely
independently.
You’re imagining exactly what this
device does. It has an IEC mains input
connector (so uses a standard IEC
power cable) and two standard 3-pin
mains sockets, into which any mains
devices (up to 2300W total) can be
plugged and controlled.
It’s housed in a standard plastic
case with the only other control an
on/off switch.
The number of channels you construct is optional. The prototype was
made with two channels but if your
application only needs one channel,
you simply leave a relay and a few
other components out.
It’s a true remote “switch” – you
press one button on the pre-built UHF
remote control keyring transmitter to
turn one of the relays on, then press
another to turn it off. The transmitter
has four buttons on it, therefore it can
control two channels.
It has a nominal range of up to
about 80 metres, perhaps more and
this should be more than enough for
most applications. But this range can
be significantly extended with an optional module, which we will look at
a little later.
And speaking of relays, they’re not
your garden-variety types. Each has
a contact rating of 80A – much more
than is available from a standard
power outlet (10A).
But more importantly, they’re
latching relays which only require a
short-term power pulse to turn them
on or off. The advantage of this is that
once actuated, no power is required
to keep the relay “pulled in” – so you
don’t waste a lot of power if something
needs to be left on for a length of time.
We explain how latching relays work
in a separate panel.
Like the transmitter, the UHF receiver module is pre-built, thus avoiding
any setup problems.
How it works
The UHF keyring transmitter has
four pushbuttons, labelled A, B, C
and D. When any of these are pressed,
a pulse train is sent to the receiver
module, it is decoded and the corresponding receiver output will go high.
While the pulse train is sent while ever
the transmitter button is pressed the
The three main
components of our
UHF Mains switch:
(left) the UHF receiver
module, already
attached to the main PC
board and (right) the
UHF transmitter module
with its case behind.
80 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
30V Power Switch
By Ross Tester
Design by Branco Justic#
receiver circuit only
needs a very short
“high” to actuate the relay.
When the receiver output goes
high, a time-delay circuit comprising a 10μF capacitor and
22kΩ resistor feeds a pulse
of around 50ms to the gate
of the Mosfet connected
to it. This momentarily
turns the Mosfet on, grounding the end of the latching relay to
which it is connected.
Each end of latching relay is also
connected to 12V via a 47Ω 1W resistor, so when a Mosfet is turned on, the
coil is energised.
You might think that a 1W resistor
is not enough in this application but
it hardly raises a sweat, due to the fact
that the turn-on and turn-off pulses
are so short.
Note that a Mosfet is connected to
each end of the latching relay and only
one of the two Mosfets will have any
effect at any given time, depending on
which way the latching relay is set.
If, for example, the latching relay is
in the “off” position and button “A” is
pressed, the Mosfet will enable current
siliconchip.com.au
to flow through
the relay coil and
it will pull the
relay into the “on”
position, where it will
stay. Further pressing of the “A”
button will have no effect.
However, pressing button “B”
turns the Mosfet on connected to
the opposite end of the latching relay,
so current flows through the coil in
the opposite direction. This causes
the relay to switch over to the “off”
position and stay there – and again,
further pressing of button “B” will
have no effect.
Transmitter buttons “C” and “D”
and the second relay operate in exactly
the same way.
The circuit is powered by a halfwave rectifier (D1 and C1) circuit
running from an on-board 9V AC
transformer. This transformer has a
split primary and can therefore be
connected for 230V or 115V operation.
For 230V operation the transformer
primaries are connected in series;
for 115V they would be connected in
parallel.
The circuit can also be powered
from 12V DC via a pair of terminals
or, as we have done, 12V DC can be
taken out from this point to power a
LED (inside the on/off switch).
A second diode (D2) isolates the
12V supply, which powers the latching relays, from the 5V supply, which
powers the UHF receiver module. This
is to ensure that the module always has
enough power to operate even when
the relay coils are actuated.
Normal (standby) current is around
14mA but for the 50ms or so that the
relays are being powered, the current
rises to around 600mA.
One thing we haven’t mentioned
is that the UHF receiver must be
“trained” to recognise the specific
transmitter you are using, otherwise
they won’t work together. We’ll do
this as part of the testing procedure
a little later.
Construction
With the exception of the mains
input/output sockets and the power
switch/LED, all components mount on
a double-sided PC board coded K231A
# Oatley Electronics Pty Ltd
May 2009 81
REG1
78L05, 7805
+5V
ANTENNA
WIRE
173mm
LONG
OUT
IN
GND
D2 1N4001
A
K
1000 F
16V
10 F
+12V
2200 F
16V
A
10 F
22k
Q1-4:
STU432S
MOSFETS
10 F
D
22k
D0
S
47
1W
S
47
1W
Q4
10 F
G
22k
C
B
RLY1*
80A
D
RLY2*
80A
K
7805
A
SC
2009
78L05
IN
GND
OUT
IN
STU432S
D
GND
G
OUT
S
2-CHANNEL UHF MAINS SWITCH
and measuring 79 x 73mm.
The entire project is housed in a
standard all-plastic utility box measuring 95 x 157 x 53mm. It’s a fairly
tight fit in this box but it will all go
in, as our photos show.
As normal, make sure your PC board
is up to scratch – there should be no
shorted or broken tracks. They’re
unlikely these days but it pays to
check.
The first thing to do before starting
construction is to carefully remove
the braided output leads from the two
latching relays. Unfortunately, they
are not insulated nor are the really
long enough to do much with.
We cut them very close to the relay
terminals with sharp sidecutters, then
(later) used the remaining copper
braid as a handy solder point for the
mains wiring.
We also found it necessary to bend
the right-angle terminals back about
45° so the board would easily fit into
the case later on. Take care when cutting these off and bending because
the terminals are relatively easy to
damage.
That done, you can now proceed
82 Silicon Chip
230V AC
INPUT
MAINS OUTLET
1
N
A
E
MAINS OUTLET
2
N
A
#LED1 AND ITS SERIES RESISTOR ARE
INSIDE CASE OF POWER SWITCH S1
1N4001
E
N
LINK B-C
FOR 230V
* BOTH RELAYS ARE
LATCHING TYPES
Q3
G
D1
47
1W
S
D
G
GND
47
1W
S
Q2
22k
A
+12V
D
G
10 F
IEC INPUT
SOCKET
S1#
D
A
Q1
UHF
D2
RX
MODULE
9V
AC
K
#OPTIONAL
D3
A
K
T1
POWER
Rs
#
LED1
#
V+
D1 1N4001
E
Fig.1: the UHF receiver module D0-D3 outputs go
high as buttons A-D on the transmitter module are
pressed. These in turn control Mosfets which can
energise the coils of latching relays RLY1 or RLY2.
If the contacts are closed, they will open
and if open, they will close.
to assemble the PC board. Start with
the resistors and small capacitors
(watch polarity – all the electrolytic
are polarised) then the diodes and 5V
regulator. While the regulator is specified as a 78L05, we used a standard
7805 – either may be supplied in the
kit and both are fine.
The UHF receiver module plugs
into a 9-pin header socket mounted on
the top side of the PC board – solder
the socket in now but don’t plug in
the module yet.
Also solder in the three 2-way
terminal blocks (it snaps together to
form one 6-way). Make sure the wire
connection side goes towards the edge
of the PC board.
Solder the two larger capacitors
(2200μF and 1000μF) and the power
transformer in at the same time. The
two capacitors are a fairly tight fit and
may need a bit of juggling to place
alongside the power transformer. The
transformer will only go in one way
– the primaries towards the edge of
the PC board.
When the transformer is soldered in,
it’s a really good idea to glue a strip of
insulating plastic over the top of the
transformer primary solder connections – just in case!
The last components on this side
of the PC board are the two latching
relays. These have three pins to solder
in – two connect to the coil but one is
for stability only.
You should have only four components left – the Mosfets. These are very
small – in fact, they’re surface-mount
devices but fortunately the spacing is
quite wide so these should present no
problems in soldering.
The close-up photo shows best how
these devices are mounted. Use a clean
hot iron but don’t keep apply heat for
any longer than necessary.
Finally, solder a 173mm length of
thin insulated hookup wire to the
“antenna” position on the UHF module and then plug the module into its
header-pin socket on the PC board.
Training and testing
It’s easiest to check the project
before mounting it in its box – and
it’s quite safe to do so because we
will check it with a 12V DC power
supply. And while we’re about it, we
will “train” the receiver to work with
siliconchip.com.au
# – 4x STU432S MOSFETS
SOLDERED ON UNDERSIDE OF PCB
* --- KST-RX902A UHF RECEIVER
MOUNTED ABOVE TOP SIDE OF PCB
1000 F
+
GND
c
22k
22k
S
G
#
D
D
#
D
5x10 F
S
G
#
G
+
*
+
D
+
C
T1
+
B
REGNAD
LAHTAEL
EGATLOV
A
+
TP
CS
VT
D3
D2
D1
D0
+5V
–
22k
22k
T1 PRIMARY CONNECTIONS
D AND A; LINK B AND C
12VDC
REG1 2x
7805 47
1W
+
+
D1 D2
2200 F
S
G
S
#
D
2x
47
1W
K231A
RLY1
JMX-94F-A-Z
RLY2
JMX-94F-A-Z
Fig.2: the component layout for the double-sided PC board, complete with the pre-built UHF receiver module which
mounts on a header pin socket above the board. Compare this with the same-size photo at right and the completed project
wiring diagram overleaf (Fig.3). The terminals pointing down need to be bent to the left at about 45°.
your transmitter.
Before doing so, however, it’s wise
to give the board a thorough examination, checking for bad solder joints,
misplaced or mis-oriented components, etc. In fact, it’s even better to
have a second person do this for you
because you’re likely to see what you
want to see!
If satisfied everything is correct,
connect a 12V battery or power supply to the upper two terminals on the
terminal block (+ towards the edge of
the PC board).
There is a white pushbutton on the
UHF module – push it and hold it
down until the red LED on the UHF
module goes out. Now press button
“A” on the keyring transmitter until
the red LED flashes.
Your keyring transmitter is now
matched to your receiver.
When you press button A or C on
the transmitter two things should
happen: (1), you should see the red
“acknowledge” LED on the UHF
receiver module flash, and (2) you
should hear a quite distinct “thunk”
from one or other of the relays as it
switches over.
Pressing the B or D buttons should
achieve exactly the same result as the
relay releases.
If you connect a multimeter (low
Ohms range) across one of the relay
contacts, you should be able to confirm
it closes and opens as you press buttons A then B. If it doesn’t, try buttons
C and D – you might be across the
wrong relay!
If everything checks out, you’re
ready to mount the PC board in its
case, along with the input/output
connectors and on/off switch.
If not, you need to go back over
your component placement and soldering.
If the red acknowledge LED lights
when you press a transmitter button
that suggests the power supply is
fine but if you don’t hear the relay
Above is the area of the top side of the
board normally hidden by the UHF
receiver module. This also shows the
row of header pin sockets into which
the UHF receiver module plugs. Note
the regulator (top of pic) is in this case
a 7805 – a 78L05 could also be used.
A close-up of the underside of the same
section of board, showing the mounting
of the four STU 432S Mosfets.
It’s a good idea to glue some heavy
plastic insulation over the mains
terminals of the PC board . . . just in
case. It’s not just leathal, it’s lethal!
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 83
MAINS OUTLET 1
CASE
12VDC
+
+
+
–
C
ANTENNA
WIRE –
ENSURE FREE END
IS SECURED UNDER
CABLE TIE AND NO
COPPER IS VISIBLE
(USE HEATSHRINK
SLEEVE IF IN DOUBT)
+
D
A
(UHF RX
MODULE)
+
E
RE G NAD
LA HTAEL
E GATL OV
A
B
+
N
+
+
IEC MAINS INPUT PLUG
K231A
c oatleyelectronics
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING ON
ALL SPADE
CONNECTORS
CABLE TIES
RLY1
LED1
CONNECTIONS
S1
UNDER
POWER ON/OFF
CUT OFF
EXISTING BRAIDED
WIRE ON RELAY
CONNECTIONS AND
USE AS NEW WIRE
SOLDERING POINTS
RLY2
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING ON
ALL RELAY
CONNECTIONS
MAINS OUTLET 2
Fig.4: follow this wiring diagram exactly – it’s important for your safety. If you
don’t want to use a power switch, run one of the brown wires from the IEC Active
terminal directly to the D terminal on the PC board – and also leave out the 12V wiring to the LED.
thunk, the problem is either in the
time delay R/C network, the Mosfets
or the relay.
If the red acknowledge LED doesn’t
light at all, the problem is in either the
5V regulator section or in the UHF
receiver module itself.
Mounting in the case
We used a 95 x 157 x 53mm (UB1)
ABS case which is available from a
number of suppliers. Ensure you get
the all-plastic variety (including lid),
ie, don’t use one of these cases with
an aluminium lid.
It’s a pretty tight fit in this box but
it does all go in, as our pictures show.
The PC board mounts in the bottom
of the case with the input and output
connectors above it.
Four holes need to be made in the
case. On one end, only a few millimetres down from the case top edge, are
the IEC mains input connector and the
on/off switch with its integral LED.
On each side of the case, at the opposite end to the input, are the 3-pin
mains outlet sockets. These mount
as close as practical to the end of the
case to give as much room as possible
84 Silicon Chip
inside for wiring.
Use photocopies of the cutout diagrams (Fig.5) as templates for drilling
the holes. That’s exactly how we cut
the appropriate sized and shaped
holes – we glued photocopies of the
diagrams to the case, then drilled a
number of fine (say 2-3mm) holes on
the inside of the lines. We then pushed
the middles out and smoothed the
holes with small files.
The 20mm hole for the on/off switch
is round, so this was drilled as large as
possible then enlarged with a tapered
reamer (although the above method
would work just as well).
You’ll also need to drill two 3.5mm
holes alongside the IEC connector for
its mounting screws (use the IEC connector itself to ascertain their position)
and four more in the bottom of the case
for the PC board mounting screws.
The actual PC board position is
quite critical because it must allow
room for the other components inside
the case. It actually mounts under
the sockets, sitting on four nuts to
raise it up enough for the Mosfets
soldered underneath. It also sits hard
up on the edge of the case so that the
relay terminals will fit in (bent back
45°, as mentioned earlier). We used
the PC board itself to carefully mark
the mounting hole positions but as a
guide, if you put the first hole 20mm
from the left (inside) edge and 5mm
down from the case wall, with the
remaining four holes on a 73 x 36mm
rectangle, you should be pretty-well
spot on!
In all cases, the PC board and the
IEC mounting screws are Nylon to
maintain insulation between inside
and outside of the case. The nuts
inside may be either Nylon, steel or
brass. But don’t put the board in the
case just yet – you need to connect
wires to the relay terminals first.
Connecting it up
Start by wiring from the relay terminals back to the input and output
sockets, as these are the hardest to
do. Use 10A, mains-rated (250VAC)
wire as you are switching the Active
power lines. You’ll need one length
around 100mm long and one around
200mm long.
Incidentally, the easiest way to get
such wire is to strip it from a dissiliconchip.com.au
The completed project, ready for
the lid to be screwed on. Note
the generous use of heatshrink
insulation and cable clamps;
also the routing of the
antenna wire as much as
practical away
from the mains wiring.
carded mains
lead!
Bare about
35mm or so of
insulation from
one end of each
wire and wrap each
around the right-hand
terminals of each relay. The
shorter wire goes to the closest
socket.
The wires should be mechanically
secure on the terminals (ie, they won’t
fall off!) before soldering.
Fortunately, the relay terminals are
quite easy to solder to but you will
require a reasonable amount of heat to
adequately solder the wires on.
The other two terminals (bent 45°)
are wired in parallel with another
length of brown mains wire, prepared
and soldered in a similar way.
Ideally, the terminals and wiring
should be insulated – we used a length
of large diameter heatshrink, slit down
the middle, which we wrapped around
the two relays (and their terminals) be-
fore shrinking. It’s not
perfect but its better than
nothing.
While you have the brown mainsrated wire at hand, cut off a short
length (~25mm) and bare 5mm at each
end. Assuming you’re wiring for 230V,
one end is secured in terminal B of the
six-way terminal block and the other
in terminal C.
Make sure no bare strands poke out
of the terminal block.
Put the PC board aside for a moment
while you wire the IEC input and the
mains switch (if fitted) plus the mains
outlets.
The IEC connector and mains
switch need to be fitted to the case
before you connect to them but the
two outlets can be done outside the
case – in fact, they have to be to gain
access to the grub screws.
Follow the wiring diagram exactly,
including the heatshrink insulation
over the various spade connectors.
Start with the IEC connector earth terINPUT PLUG
IEC MAINS
CUTOUT FOR
IEC MAINS
INPUT
CONNECTOR
14
A
5
6
5
9.5
A
5
18
6
A HOLES: 3mm
B
14
33.5
CUTOUT
FOR 3-PIN
MAINS
OUTLET
The end-on shot of the case shows the mounting of the IEC mains input
connector and the on-off switch with its internal LED. Be sure to use Nylon
screws for the IEC connector (as well as for the PC board mounting) to ensure
insulation integrity is maintained. For the same reason, an all-plastic switch is
used.
siliconchip.com.au
10.9
16.75
B HOLES: 4.5mm
Fig.5: same-size cutout details for the
IEC connector (as seen at left) and the
3-pin mains sockets (as seen in above
photo).
May 2009 85
14
Parts List –
UHF Remote Power Switch
1 double-sided PC board, code
K231a, 79 x 73mm*
1 UB1 (157 x 95 x 53mm) ABS utility
case with ABS lid.
1 TX01 UHF receiver/decoder
module*
1 TX9 4-button UHF keyring rollingcode transmitter
2 JMX-94F-A-Z SPST 80A latching
relays*
1 PC-mounting mini mains
transformer, 9V secondary*
3 2-way pc-mounting screw terminal
blocks (forms 1 x 6-way)*
1 9-way male header pin strip*
1 9-way female header pin socket
strip*
1 IEC mains input socket, screwmounting type
1 mains lead with IEC plug
2 surface-mount 3-pin mains outlets
1 250V 1A switch with integral LED
and resistor (optional)
1 500mm length 10A brown mainsrated hookup wire
1 500mm length 10A blue mains-rated
hookup wire
1 500mm length 10A green/yellow
mains-rated hookup wire
1 175mm length hookup wire (for
antenna)
1 50mm length red/black mini figure-8
(or individual red and black –
for LED
6 10mm M3 nylon screws
6 M3 nuts
3 6.4mm crimp-type spade connectors
2 6.4mm piggy-back spade
connectors
2 4.8mm spade connectors
5 mini cable ties
1 piece of rigid plastic, 20 x 30mm, for
PC board insulation
lengths of heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors*
1 7805 or 78L05 Regulator (REG1)
2 IN4001 power diodes (D1,2)
4 STU432S power Mosfets (Q1-Q4)
Capacitors*
1 2200μF 16V electrolytic
1 1000μF 16V electrolytic
5 10μF 10V electrolytic
Resistors*
4 22kΩ 1/4W
4 47Ω 1W
* These components form K321B Kit
86 Silicon Chip
minal – it has two green/yellow earth
wires crimped inside one spade connector. These other end of these two
wires screw into the earth terminals
on the mains outlets.
You will note that we used a couple
of “piggy back” 6.4mm spade connectors on the Active and Neutral IEC
connector terminals. The Neutral has
three blue wires, one screwing into
each of the mains outlets “N” positions
and one terminal “A” on the terminal
block on the PC board. Brown wires
connect the IEC Active terminal to the
on/off switch and to the paralleled
relay terminals.
Another brown wire connects from
the other terminal of the switch to
terminal “D” on the terminal block on
the PC board, while the + and – LED
terminals on the switch connect to the
+ and -12V terminal block positions.
There is a series resistor inside the
switch so the LED can be connected
directly to 12V.
Again, follow the wiring diagram
exactly and you shouldn’t go wrong.
Incidentally, the reason we are specific
about which terminal is wired with
which wire is that connecting the blue
wire (Neutral) to terminal “A” keeps
the brown wire (Active) as far away
from the 12V supply as possible.
Because mains wiring is involved,
all of the spade connectors really
need to be crimped with a ratchet
crimper – the “plier” type of crimper
really doesn’t apply enough pressure
to adequately crimp the cables. If you
don’t have a ratchet crimper, it’s a good
idea to solder the wires to any spade
connectors (as well as crimp them).
Before you get too far down the
track, you will need to insert the PC
board into the case, along with the
two mains outlet sockets, to complete
the wiring.
Dressing the cables
Where mains wiring is involved,
we must assume the worst-case scenario where, somehow, a wire lets go
(eg, it unsolders due to heat, or is not
screwed in properly, etc). This being
the case, we must assure the wire cannot flail around and contact something
it shouldn’t.
Therefore, all of the wiring within
the case needs to be routed along the
edges and fastened together with small
cable ties. Small cable ties are very
cheap ($2 a bag at bargain stores!) so
don’t scrimp on them
There are a couple of handy mounting holes on the mains outlets (which
we don’t use here as the outlets
“sandwich” around the case) which
make handy cable tie anchors – see
the photos.
The UHF receiver requires a short
length (173mm) of hookup wire for its
antenna. Ideally, this wire should also
be mains-rated.
One thing that would concern us
about this wire is if there were any
strands of copper poking out the end.
Just to be on the safe side, we covered
the end of the wire in a short length
of heatshrink and made doubly sure
it was secured properly.
You will note in the photographs
that this antenna wire is also kept
away, as much as possible, from the
mains wiring. This is not just for safety
reasons; keeping the antenna wire
separate will also give the receiver its
maximum sensitivity and therefore
greatest range.
When you are satisfied that the project is wired as shown in our diagrams,
place the lid on the box and screw it
in place.
Now connect the power and turn it
on. The LED inside the switch should
glow, indicating you have 12V – and
when you press “A” or “C” on the
transmitter you should again hear that
“thunk”. Press “B” or “D” to turn it
off, then connect a mains device such
as a lamp or other easy-to-recognise
device to either of the power outlets
and check that you can turn it on and
off via the transmitter.
Finally, remember that turning off
the power switch will not turn off
any device which is being switched
– it stays in its current state until you
switch it with the key transmitter. The
power switch only disconnects power
to the UHF Switch.
Where from, how much?
This project was developed by
Oatley Electronics, who retain
copyright on the design & PC board.
The K231B Kit, which includes the
UHF receiver and all on-board
components sells for $49.00 inc GST
The TX9 transmitter, including keyring case, sells for $16.00 inc GST
Freight is $7.00 per order
web: www.oatleyelectronics.com.au
or (02) 9584 3563
siliconchip.com.au
What is a latching relay?
These shots are of the type of latching
relay used in this project, with the
one on the right removed from its case
so you can see what makes it click!
The two braided leads
welded to the terminals
should be cut off as
they are not used.
This explanation comes from our December 2006 issue but we thought it
would be opportune to repeat it, as a latching relay is not something that you
come across every day. In fact, even those “in the trade” may not understand
the operation nor purpose of a latching relay.
First, a conventional relay operation: this has an electromagnet, formed by
a coil wound on a laminated iron core. While current flows through the coil, a
magnetic field is created which attracts a spring-loaded steel armature towards
the iron core. The armature either pushes or pulls electrical contacts towards
or away from each other, making or breaking a circuit (and in most relays,
both – breaking one circuit then making another). When the current stops, the
magnetic field collapses, so the armature springs back and the contacts revert
to their normal state.
A latching relay is much the same, except that once the armature has switched
over to the opposite position, it will stay there, even when the current through
the coil stops. It will only switch back the other way when told to by the controlling circuit. You could even disconnect the latching relay from the circuit
completely and it would still stay in the last-set position.
A good analogy is a standard switch: you push the lever one way and it stays
there until you push it the other way. The difference is that instead of a finger
pushing or pulling a lever, you have the magnetic field pushing or pulling the
armature. The armature may be held in place by a permanent magnet or it
may be mechanically latched, based on a spring and detent system (which,
incidentally, is how most switches stay in the selected position).
Another analogy is a bistable multivibrator or flipflop – it has two stable
states, neither of which has any pre-eminence over the other.
Latching relays may have two coils – one switching to one position, the
second switching to the other – or it may have a single coil, where the current
is reversed through the coil to switch to the opposite state. This is the type of
latching relay used in this project.
It is a common misconception that latching relays do not consume power
when energised. Although current is not required through the coil to hold the
armature in position, current will still flow if applied, negating the reason for
using a latching relay over a conventional relay. Therefore, a short pulse of
current is normally used to actuate it, just as in this project.
Where conventional relays have “normally open” (NO) and “normally closed”
(NC) positions, latching relays with changeover contacts don’t – because there
is no “normal” position. In our case, the relay is a SPST type so, like a switch,
the contacts are either open or closed (off or on, if you like).
Finally, no relay coil suppression diodes can be used on a single-coil latching
relay because of the polarity reversal. Therefore the voltage rating of any switching transistor (or Mosfet in this case) must be high enough to safely handle the
sp‑ike which occurs when current ceases and the magnetic field collapses.
siliconchip.com.au
Want really
long range
(2km or so!)?
Oatley Electronics have
available a tiny (27 x 20mm)
add-on transmitter module
which is claimed to increase the range of the TX09 transmitter from tens of
metres to kilometres.
It’s the TX-03 module,
which also operates under
Australian LIPD (licenceexempt) regulations.
There are only
three connections required
– data (which
can be taken
from the antenna output),
power (3V or 5V)
and ground. It will operate from
315MHz - 433.92MHz and from -40°
to +80°. Oatley’s RRP is $16.00
The manufacturer of the TX-03
states that the transmit power is
15dBm, which equates to 32mW.
Presumably this is at the upper end
of the specified operating voltage
range (3-12V).
The maximum legal output power
of LIPD devices in the 433MHz band
is 25mW, so (again presumably) the
transmitter would need to be operated at the lower end of the supply
voltage range to remain legal. Indeed,
Oatley Electronics warn that operating at 5V may exceeed the legal limit.
Therefore, we suggest operating only
from 3V. Oatley claim a range of
2km+ at 3V and 4km+ at 5V.
Naturally, the TX-03 module will
not fit inside the keychain transmitter case so you will have to make
other arrangements to mount it and
also power it. The telescopic whip
antenna can be unsoldered from the
TX-01 PC board and a short wire
used to connect that point to the
“Data” input on the TX-03. While the
TX-01 has a 12V battery, using this
would result in too much transmitter
power, as described above.
Unfortunately, despite extensive
searching, we have been unable to
obtain any further specifications for
the Chinese-made TX-03.
SC
May 2009 87
By JIM ROWE
Input attenuator for the
Digital Audio Millivoltmeter
If you’d like to be able to use our Digital Audio Millivoltmeter
to measure AC voltages up to 140V RMS, this add-on project is
the answer. It’s a simple switched input divider which lets you
add 40dB, 20dB or 0dB of attenuation ahead of the meter at
the touch of a knob.
T
HE DIGITAL AUDIO Millivolt
meter described in the March
2009 issue of SILICON CHIP can measure signals over a 79dB range, from
about 160μV (-76dBV) up to 1.41V
RMS (+3dBV). This is fine for lowlevel measurements but does make the
meter unsuitable for measuring higher
level signals.
With the benefit of hindsight, wecould have built a switched input
divider right into the meter itself. However, this would have involved a tight
squeeze to fit the additional switch and
components into the PC board and box
and the front panel would have been
very crowded as well.
Anyway, to increase the measured
voltage range, we have designed this
88 Silicon Chip
little “outboard” switched input attenuator. It’s designed to be connected
ahead of the Digital Audio Millivoltmeter’s unbalanced input via a short
BNC cable.
There’s no need for cable swapping
to remove it when you are measuring
small signals, either – because it incorporates a “straight through” (0dB)
switch position as well. So once it’s
built and connected to the input of
the meter, its own input connector
effectively becomes the meter’s unbalanced input.
Simple circuit
There’s very little in the attenuator, as you can see from the circuit
schematic (Fig.1). A 2-pole switch is
used to switch the input signal either
straight through to the output (0dB)
or via one of two taps on the resistive
divider.
The upper tap gives a 10:1 division
(-20dB), while the lower tap gives a
100:1 division (-40dB). As a result
the first position of the switch leaves
the millivoltmeter’s own ranges unchanged, while the next position effectively subtracts 20dB from the meter
readings and extends its “full scale”
reading to 14.1V RMS or +23dBV.
Similarly, the third switch position
subtracts 40dB from the meter readings
and extends its measurement capability out to 141V RMS (+43dBV).
Note that the meter readings don’t
take this added attenuation into acsiliconchip.com.au
INPUT
Rin =
100k
S1a
0dB
–20dB
–20dB
–40dB
–40dB
S1b
OUTPUT
RL =
100k
47k
43k
10k
100
1k
22
count, because there’s no way for the
PIC micro inside the meter to know
how much extra attenuation is being
applied. So you have to add the 20dB
or 40dB to the readings yourself and/
or multiply the millivolt readings by
either 10 or 100 as appropriate. That
doesn’t involve a great deal of mental
maths though.
Now before you ask, we’ll clear up
a few points about the resistor values
used in the divider. Do they make allowance for the shunting effect of the
meter’s own input resistance? Yes,
they do.
If you care to work it out, you’ll
find that the division ratios of 10:1
and 100:1 are only correct when the
output of the attenuator is loaded with
100kΩ (ie, the input resistance of the
millivoltmeter). The ratios are then
within 0.1% of their nominal 10:1 and
100:1 values – which is close enough
P
SC
2009
ALL RESISTORS 1% TOLERANCE
METAL FILM
AUDIO INPUT DIVIDER 0/-20/-40 B
Fig.1: the circuit is simply a switched resistive attenuator network, with
double-pole switch S1 selecting between the 0dB, -20dB (10:1 division) and
-40dB (100:1 division) positions.
considering we are using 1% tolerance
resistors.
The input resistance of the input
divider/millivoltmeter combination
also remains very close to the nominal 100kΩ figure for the meter itself.
Clearly, it’s exactly the same in the 0dB
switch position but even in the other
two positions it is still within 2%.
Construction
Most of the parts are mounted on
a small PC board measuring 76 x
53.5mm and coded 04205091. This is
designed to fit inside a standard small
diecast aluminium box measuring
111 x 59 x 30mm. This box provides
shielding and physical protection. It
also matches the larger diecast box
used for the millivoltmeter itself.
There’s plenty of space inside the
box for the BNC input and output
connectors, which are both insulated
single-hole mounting types. As shown
in one of the photos, the board assembly itself mounts centrally in the
bottom of the box and is secured via
four M3 x 15mm tapped spacers. Note
that metal spacers and screws must be
used to secure the board because one of
the spacers is used to connect the box
to the PC board earth copper.
Note also that the other three spacers
and screws make no contact with the
board earth copper. This is done to
prevent the formation of earth loops.
Bd 0 4/ 0 2/ 0 REDIVID OIDUA
RETE MTL OVILLI M GID R OF
S1
OUTPUT
43k
1k
22
9002 ©
19050240
47k
INPUT
10k
100
Fig.2 (left): position the parts on the PC board as shown here and install PC stakes on the copper side at the external
wiring points. At right is the completed board – it should only take a few minutes to assemble.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 89
Parts List
A
1 PC board, code 04205091, 76
x 53.5mm
1 diecast aluminium box, 111 x
59 x 30mm
1 2-pole 6-position rotary switch
1 small instrument knob
2 BNC connectors, insulated
single hole mounting
4 M3 x 15mm tapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 6mm screws, pan head
4 M3 x 6mm screws, countersink
head
4 1mm PC board terminal pins
4 stick-on rubber feet
Light-duty hook-up wire
22.75
A
B
22.75
CL
A
A
34.25
34.25
CL
BOTTOM OF BOX (USED INVERTED)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 47kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 43kΩ
1 100Ω
1 10kΩ
1 22Ω
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
C
HOLES A: 3.0mm DIAMETER, CSK
HOLE B:
9.0mm DIAMETER
HOLES C: 9.5mm DIAMETER
12
BOTH ENDS IDENTICAL
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on the
PC board. There’s just the six resistors
and the switch, so assembly will only
take a few minutes. Cut the switch
shaft to a length to suit the knob before
fitting it to the PC board.
The connections between the input
and output BNC connectors and the
PC board are made via short lengths
of hookup wire. We fitted PC board
pins to the board (from the copper
side) to make these connections a
little easier.
Wiring up the attenuator should be
very easy – see Figs.2 & 5. The whole
job should take you no more than an
hour or so, including the time to drill
and ream the holes in the box.
Fig.3 shows the drilling details for
the case. Note that the case is used
inverted, so that the base becomes the
front panel (do NOT drill the lid). Use
a small pilot drill to start the larger
holes, then carefully enlarge them
CL
Fig.3: this diagram shows the drilling details for the metal case. Note that
the bottom of the box is used as the front panel, so be sure to drill holes “A”
& “B” in the base (NOT the lid).
ATTENUATION
–20dB
–40dB
INPUT
OUTPUT
0dB
SILICON
CHIP
SWITCHED AUDIO ATTENUATOR
Fig.4: the front-panel artwork is attached to the base of the case. It can either
be photocopied or you can download it from our website and print it out.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
90 Silicon Chip
Value
47kΩ
43kΩ
10kΩ
1kΩ
100Ω
22Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet orange brown
yellow orange orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
brown black brown brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black red brown
yellow orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black black brown
red red black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
© 2009
04205091
OUTPUT TO
MILLIVOLTMETER
INPUT
AUDIO DIVIDER 0/20/40dB
FOR DIG MILLIVOLTMETER
Fig.5: the PC board is fitted with M3 x 15mm tapped spacers and mounted upside down in the
base of the case. The BNC sockets are then wired by running leads to the PC stakes on the board.
to the correct size using a tapered
reamer.
Fig.4 shows a full-size artwork for the
attenuator’s front panel. It can either be
photocopied onto an adhesive-backed
label or you can download the artwork from our website and print it
out. This can then be covered with
self-adhesive clear plastic film
(to resist discolouration due to
finger grease) and attached to
the base (use a thin smear of silicone sealant to attach the label
if it doesn’t have an adhesive
backing). Cut out the holes for
the switch and the PC board
mounting screws using a sharp
hobby knife.
Next, move the end-stop washer on
the rotary switch to the correct location for three switch positions. Do not
initially refit the nut after doing this,
though – just refit the lockwasher for
the time being (the combined height
of the switch and lockwasher above
the PC board is very close to 15mm,
so they match the four M3 x 15mm
tapped mounting spacers).
Countersink-head M3 x 6mm screws
should now be used to secure the four
M3 x 15mm tapped spacers to the
base. The PC board can then be fitted
in position and secured using M3 x
6mm pan-head screws. That done, fit
The unit can be switched to give -0dB, -20dB or
-40dB of attenuation. Fit the base (ie, the lid) with
rubber feet to prevent scratches to desk-tops.
the nut to the switch and attach the
knob to the switch shaft.
Finally, secure the lid in position
(this now becomes the base of the
case). It’s also a good idea to fit four
small adhesive-backed plastic or
rubber feet to the box lid, to prevent
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
scratches to bench-tops or any other
surface the device is placed on.
That’s it. Once your add-on attenuator is finished, your Digital Millivoltmeter will be able to make measurements over a 96dB range: from
SC
160μV to just over 140V RMS.
Keep your copies safe
with our handy binders
Available Aust, only. Price: $A13.95 plus $7 p&p per order (includes GST). Just fill in and mail the handy
order form in this issue or ring (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 91
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Astor Football GR/GRP
3-Valve TRF Mantel Receiver
Manufactured around 1948, the Astor GR/
GRP receiver was nicknamed “Football”
because of its cabinet shape. It’s a low-cost
3-valve TRF set designed for tough times.
“WIRELESS” RECEIVERS were initially all tuned radio frequency (TRF)
types. The superheterodyne circuit
was not invented until Major Edwin
Armstrong developed the concept during World War 1. Superhet receivers
are more complex than TRF receivers
but have many advantages where high
performance is required.
By contrast, TRFs were traditionally
used where cost, non-critical performance and simple circuit design were
important. Many TRF radios are easy
to operate but those using regeneration require operating skills that many
non-technical listeners find hard to
acquire. Although TRFs are rarely
92 Silicon Chip
seen these days as domestic receivers, they are still used in the form of
super-regenerative receivers for such
things as garage door openers.
Most receivers manufactured from
the mid-1930s onwards were superhets but manufacturers occasionally
produced a simple, cheap TRF set to
satisfy the low-cost end of the market. The Astor GR/GRP is one such
example.
The Astor Football (GR, GRP)
The Astor “Football”, as it is affectionately known, is a small, 3-valve,
economy mantel broadcast receiver
produced around 1948. “Football”
wasn’t its official name but the cabinet
is around the same size and shape as
an Australian Rules football, hence the
unofficial nickname given to the set by
users and collectors. It was intended
for use as a kitchen or bedroom radio;
anywhere radio signals were strong.
The Football’s bakelite cabinet came
in a few colours, with brown and
cream being the most common. The
cabinet is made in two parts, which
are separated by undoing three screws,
two underneath the cabinet through
rubber buffers and the other through
the back. However, the design leaves
something to be desired, as the thread
that goes through the cabinet to the rear
retaining nut fouls the 6G8G valve and
makes it difficult to replace the back.
To transport the set, four fingers
are inserted through the back section
of the case and it is then carried that
way. However, an antenna is required
for decent reception and the 5.2metre permanently connected antenna
doesn’t lend itself to easy portability.
The set can have either of two type
numbers: GR or GRP. GR refers to a set
that uses a 50Hz power transformer
and a 5Y3GT rectifier, whilst GRP
refers to a set that uses a 40Hz transformer and a 6X5GT rectifier. Apart
from that, the two sets are identical.
Circuit details
Because it is a TRF set, the Astor
Football’s circuit is quite simple.
However, in order to obtain reasonable performance, reflexing is used to
gain extra sensitivity. Fig.1 shows the
circuit details.
The input tuned circuit (29, 13, 33,
34) is quite conventional, with no
automatic gain control (AGC) voltage
applied to a 6G86 RF valve. As shown,
siliconchip.com.au
the input signal from the antenna is
amplified by the 6G8G and passed on
to another tuned circuit (30, 12, 33 &
35). It then goes via an RC network to
a detector diode in the 6G8G. The end
of the untuned winding not connected
to the 6G8G’s plate is bypassed to earth
via capacitor 6.
The detected audio signal is fed
through resistor 18, capacitor 4 and
resistor 16 to the grid of the 6G8G. The
residual RF from the detector is largely
filtered out by capacitor 9. Capacitor
8 prevents the audio and bias signals
from being shunted to earth by the
tuned circuit.
The 6G8G amplifies the audio as
well as the RF signal. In the plate
circuit, the untuned winding of the
tuned circuit does not impede the
audio signal. As far as the audio signal
is concerned, there is only the plate
load resistor (22) in circuit. The audio
is developed across this resistor and
applied via capacitor 3 to the grid of
a 6V6GT audio output valve.
The 6V6GT amplifies this audio
signal and applies it to a speaker transformer which in turn drives a 5-inch
(125mm) loudspeaker. Note that there
is no negative feedback in the audio
circuitry, in keep with the Astor’s role
as an economy receiver.
The power supply is quite conventional, with either a 6X5GT or a
5Y3GT acting as a full-wave rectifier.
The 6X5GT appears only to have been
used in the units supplied with a
power transformer intended for 40Hz
operation. At the time this set was
produced, Perth (WA) apparently had
40Hz mains while most of the rest of
Australia had 50Hz mains.
Note that the 6.3V dial lamp is run
from a 5V tapping on the heater winding in order to extend its life. Another
point of interest is that the receiver’s
power consumption is around 35W,
which is almost the same as most
5-valve sets of the era.
There is no conventional volume
control. Instead, the volume is controlled by the back-bias system. This
can be varied anywhere between -2V
and -22V and is applied to the variablemu 6G8G valve. The more bias, the less
amplification.
Restoring the GR
This particular receiver had been
largely restored when it was given to
me on loan. First, the bakelite cabinet
was in good order and required no atsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: a 3-valve TRF circuit is used in the Astor GR/GRP receiver, with the
6G8G valve functioning as a reflexed RF and audio stage.
The above-chassis parts are close together but can be easily accessed once the
valves have been removed. Note the metal shield on the 6B8G8 RF valve.
tention. Second, all the paper capacitors, one electrolytic filter capacitor
and a couple of wires with perished
insulation had been replaced. And
third, the 2-core figure eight power
lead had been replaced with a 3-core
type.
The wires that had been replaced
were bright blue and looked out of
place. As a result, I replaced them with
brown hook-up wire which looked
similar to the original wiring.
The next thing I noticed was that
the cardboard speaker cloth template
was much the worse for wear. There
were a couple of choices here – either
May 2009 93
While looking at the dial-drive
mechanism, I also noticed that all the
pulleys that the dial cord runs over
are riveted into place. This means that
none are free to turn, which places
further stress on the dial-drive mechanism but not on the fibre gear-drive,
thankfully.
This is not an isolated incident as a
previous Football that I serviced had
exactly the same riveted dial-pulley
problem. What’s more, its a problem
that cannot be easily overcome. Having said that, it’s worked for around
60 years with no real problems, so
it really isn’t worth worrying about.
Still, it really was a cheapskate method
of constructing the dial-drive mechanism.
Trying it out
This view shows the underside of the chassis with the restoration nearly
completed. Among other things, the mains cord should be rewired, so that
its earth lead is attached to a crimp eyelet lug which is then securely bolted
to the chassis (the soldered tag-strip connection to chassis shown here could
become faulty, due to the joint going “cold”).
I could make a new template out of
thick cardboard or I could patch up
the original by gluing strips of cardboard to it.
In the end, I decided to repair the
existing template although in retrospect it would have been better to
have made a new one. Of course, I only
found some suitable cardboard after
I had finished repairing the original
template but that’s always the way.
Next, the light-coloured speaker
cloth had rotted so I replaced it with
some new material. This was glued
in place using Tarzan’s Grip. Unfortunately, I only had dark-brown cloth, so
I also had to change the colour of the
dial pointer so that it could be seen.
This was changed to white using a
white-out correction pen and does not
look out of place.
Parts layout
The parts under the chassis are all
quite accessible, so the set is easy to
service. The layout however, is something of a dog’s breakfast. Because the
set has relatively low gain, parts placement is not overly critical, although
personally I like to see all components
related to the operation of a particular
section grouped together.
94 Silicon Chip
Above the chassis, things are rather
different and there is little spare space.
However, with the valves removed,
all parts can be easily accessed for
service.
This particular radio had apparently been used in a kitchen, as fat
and grime were evident on the chassis
and various components. This gunk
was removed from the chassis (after
removing the valves) using a kerosenesoaked kitchen scourer, after which the
chassis was wiped down with a clean
cloth. Kerosene is slightly oily and so
some remains on the chassis and helps
prevent further rusting.
Next, the knobs were cleaned with
soapy water and a nailbrush to remove
the finger grime that had built up over
many years of use. However, while I
was rotating the tuning control to gain
access to all sections of the knob, I
noticed that the fibre gear that drives
the tuning capacitor has several badly
damaged teeth. This means that tuning from one end of the dial to the
other will eventually strip these rather
delicate teeth.
This is an area of weakness in some
Astor receivers but fortunately, a
member of the HRSA makes replacement gears.
Having finished the repairs, I powered the set up while monitoring the
various voltage rails. Everything was
normal except for the plate voltages
which came up slightly higher than
shown on the circuit. However, this is
understandable as the voltages marked
on the circuit were obtained with a
mains voltage of 230V AC while mine
is 245V AC (despite the fact that the
official voltage these days is 230V).
I had expected the radio to work
properly from the outset but my confidence was misplaced. Instead, its
performance was extremely poor and
there was noticeable hum in the audio.
So I had some troubleshooting to do.
First, I connected an electrolytic
capacitor across each of the electros in
the power supply in turn, to determine
if one of these was faulty. This quickly
showed that capacitor 10 was indeed
faulty and this was confirmed when I
checked it on my capacitance meter.
I replaced it with a 22μF 350V electrolytic capacitor, which I hid under
the chassis. The old capacitor was
simply disconnected but left in place
to keep the set looking as authentic
as possible.
With the new capacitor, the performance improved markedly, although
it still wasn’t brilliant. This isn’t
exactly a high-performance set but
the performance was still well down
compared to the one I had previously
restored.
With the various voltages being
relatively close to specification, I knew
that the 5Y3GT rectifier valve was in
good order. As a result, I tried replacing the 6V6GT audio output valve
siliconchip.com.au
but this gave no change. However,
when I replaced the 6G8G, the set’s
performance improved dramatically.
The original 6G8G was obviously well
past its use-by date!
Alignment
All that was left now was to touch
up the alignment. Alignment is a task
that many newcomers to vintage radio
endeavour to steer clear of and indeed,
aligning some receivers is quite a task.
Sets like the AWA 7-band series or a
Barlow Wadley XCR-30, for example,
can be quite a challenge.
By contrast, the Astor Football is
extremely easy to align, with only
three adjustments involved.
There is a standard procedure for
aligning the receiver but for the average collector, a somewhat simpler
method also works extremely well.
First, connect the antenna that’s
normally used to the receiver, then
adjust the dial pointer position for
equal overshoot at each extremity of
the dial. That done, tune to the lowfrequency end of the dial and use a
signal generator to check that the set
is tuned to about 535kHz.
If you don’t have a signal generator,
just tune to a station that’s close to the
low-frequency end of the dial.
Because there is no adjustment to set
the lowest frequency received, some
sets may not tune down to 535kHz
due to tolerances in the tuned circuit
components. If so, there’s not much
you can do about it – just accept it.
The tuning should now be adjusted
to 1400kHz or to a station that’s close to
this frequency. The dial is not marked
with frequency indications so it will
be necessary to check the station frequencies in order to do this.
Regardless as to whether a signal
generator or a radio station is used as
the signal source, the alignment procedure is the same. If the signal is received at a lower indicated frequency
on the dial than where it should be, it
will be necessary to screw both trimmer capacitors in to increase their
capacitance. This will gradually move
the tuning further up the dial, towards
the correct spot.
Conversely, if the station appears
higher up the dial that it should, reduce the trimmer capacitances. In both
cases, it’s only a matter of adjusting
the trimmers to peak the signal at its
correct dial location.
The selectivity of a TRF set mainly
siliconchip.com.au
These views show the front of the chassis without the speaker cloth (top)
and with the new speaker cloth attached (bottom).
depends on the frequency that’s tuned.
In the case of the Football, the selectivity is about 10kHz at the low-frequency
end (ie, at around 550kHz) and about
30kHz at the high-frequency end (ie,
around 1400kHz). This is one of the
deficiencies of TRF sets; ie, the higher
the frequency tuned, the worse the
selectivity.
Summary
The Astor GR /GRP football is very
much an economy set and corners
were cut in its design, as shown by
the dial-pulley arrangement. Basically,
it is an uncomplicated TRF set with
reflexing around the 6G8G. However,
don’t be put off by the idea of reflexing, as it is not a troublesome area in
this set.
If there are problems, it is only
necessary to measure the values of the
various components in this section to
determine where the problem lies.
The set is easy to work on below
the chassis, although not quite so easy
on top. It is dead simple to align but
not very sensitive. However, for its
intended use as a kitchen or bedroom
set in a suburban environment, its
performance is quite adequate.
There are few, if any, problems with
this set that cannot be easily fixed. For
this reason alone, it would make an
ideal first restoration project.
In short, the Astor football is a fav
ourite with many collectors and is
well-worth having in a collection, as it
was one of the last domestic TRF valve
SC
designs to be sold in Australia.
May 2009 95
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Battery amplifier for
single loudspeaker
I’m trying to source an amplifier
to take the output signal of my MP3
player and drive a single 8-ohm
speaker (rated at 40W max). I want to
be able to run the amplifier from batteries or from a plugpack and I want
the amplifier to be relatively small so
I can place it in a compact enclosure.
I found the Mighty Midget amplifier (SILICON CHIP, March 2002) but I
understand this is no longer available.
I have found other amplifier modules
at Jaycar Electronics but these require
dual supply rails, making it much
more difficult to use batteries.
Can you please suggest a suitable
amplifier? Since I only have a single
speaker, can I use a smaller rated amplifier than 40W? (G. W., via email).
• The Mighty Midget can still be
made. The PC board can be purchased
from RCS Radio (www.rcsradio.com.
au), while the TDA1562Q amplifier IC
is available from Dick Smith Electronics (Cat. ZA-2098).
Charging controller
current query
I saw the Charging Controller for
12V Lead Acid Batteries in the Circuit
Notebook pages of the August 2008
issue and am wondering what the circuit’s own power consumption is. The
reason for this question is that I have
a small solar panel that produces up
to 100mA in full sun. Its open-circuit
voltage is in the order of 22V which is
probably not much good for 12V car
batteries. (T. T., via email).
• The quiescent current of the Charging Controller would be very close to
13mA.
Note that this current is drawn from
the battery, although your solar panel
will need to supply this as part of the
charging current, when the circuit
turns on transistor Q1.
Problem with
Radar Speed Gun
I hope you can help me with a
problem I am having with the Radar
Speed Gun Mk.2, (SILICON CHIP, November & December 2006). The kit
went together very well and appears
to be working apart from the fact that
I am not getting any waveform from
TP2. The article says that this should
give a train of narrow positive-going
pulses with a peak-to-peak amplitude
of about 11.5V.
The 38kHz oscillator is oscillating
and I am getting the correct waveforms
on pins 1, 2 & 3 of IC8, yet there is
nothing on pins 9 & 11 (TP2).
Magnetic Cartridge Preamp Equalisation
I am constructing the Magnetic
Cartridge Preamplifier described in
your August 2006 issue. As a slight
variation on the design, I wish to
use a 12-position switch to select
between all the equalisation curves
because I have a number of different
78 RPM record types. However, to
save space, I would like to leave the
level potentiometer out and replace
it with a trimpot or fixed resistors.
If I do this, when I switch between
the various equalisation settings,
will the level vary so much that I
96 Silicon Chip
will need to re-adjust it for each setting? If this is the case, I will need to
include the level control but if this
is not the case, I can leave it out. (C.
R., Tuebingen, Germany).
• Generally, the equalisation curves
are set to provide a similar output
level when the curve correctly
matches the recording. However,
because 78 RPM recordings from
different manufacturers each used
their own standards, there will be
some variation in level and you may
need to use the level control.
All three digits of the display are
working and I am getting an 11.4V
negative peak display on TP3. The
headphone output gives a fluctuating
audible sound as I move my hand to
and from the microwave head unit,
indicating that the head is working
OK.
I tried replacing both IC7 (4020B)
and IC8 (4073B) but this has not corrected the problem. I have checked
and double-checked everything many
times but am unable to find the reason
I am not getting a waveform at TP2.
I would be grateful if you are able
to suggest what might be the problem.
(D. P., Leeds, UK).
• If you are getting digits other than
zeroes displayed on the three 7-segment displays, this suggests that your
timebase section is actually working
as it should and that there are actually
pulses present at TP2, even though
your scope is not able to show them.
They are quite narrow, by the way
(only a few tens of nanoseconds).
We suggest that you look for waveforms at the Q and Q-bar outputs of
IC3b (pins 15 and 14) and also at pin
1 of IC3a. If you find square waves at
these points, it means that those narrow pulses really are present at TP2
and everything is indeed operating
as it should.
Bigger capacitors for
Ultra-LD amplifier
I am building two of your Ultra-LD
MK.2 135W amplifier modules and
have a question. The recommended
power supply shows six 4700μF capacitors for a total of 14,100μF per
side. I wonder whether it would be
OK to increase these capacitors to
larger values.
I was thinking of upwards of
10,000μF for each capacitor, for a total
of 30,000μF per side. What are your
thoughts? (P. S., Flossmoor, Illinois,
USA).
• You could increase the capacitance
if you wish but there will be negligible
change to the performance.
siliconchip.com.au
Confusion Over Knock Sensors & Duty Cycle
I have read your publication “Performance Electronics For Cars” and I
am interested in injector duty cycle.
I have the impression that when an
engine runs on high duty cycle, a
certain injector keeps spraying fuel
even when the relevant intake valve
is still closed while its cylinder
covers the other three strokes.
My question: is the fuel sprayed
sucked into the adjacent cylinder
or distant cylinders, inevitably at
the intake stroke, and would this
affect the mixture of the other cylinders in particular or all cylinders
in general?
Please also advise me regarding
the knock sensor. I obtained some
test info off the internet for my 1992
Mazda 929. It specifies the voltage
at the ECU end of a knock sensor
should be less than 1V (tested with
the ignition on) yet I measured
8.87V. I suspect this faulty knock
sensor causes my engine to run ex-
Advice on X2
capacitor selection
I have built a few amplifiers and
have been putting an X2 capacitor
across the primary of the power transformer to stop noises (cracking sound)
when turning the amplifier off. My
question is, is this a dangerous practice
and can this damage the amplifier if
the value is too large, say 0.47μF, due
to it forming a resonant circuit say?
Is there a way to determine the
correct value if this is an appropriate
practice? (D. H., via email).
• 0.47μF is too large and will cause
a very high initial switch-on current,
depending on the instant of switchon and the peak mains voltage at
that time. If the mains switch is a
single-pole unit, it is better to place
the capacitor across the switch. This
means that it has no voltage across it
when the unit is operational.
A typical value to stop switch-off
“cracks” would be 10-22nF 250VAC.
Comparing our
premium amplifiers
Your 20W Class-A and the 135W
Ultra-LD Mk.2 are interesting amplisiliconchip.com.au
tremely rich. I have measured the
duty cycle range from 91-96% and
the frequency range from 32-46Hz
when the engine is idling.
Please confirm whether my suspicion is correct or if something else is
causing the problem. I also tested the
engine coolant temperature sensor,
the oxygen sensors and the airflow
meter sensor. They are all in working order.
Because of the problem, I have
not been able to drive on petrol – I
drive on LPG only. (H. L., via email).
• A faulty knock sensor would not
make the engine run rich. When an
engine knocks, the timing is retarded
by the ECU, rather than enriching
mixture. A faulty knock sensor may
affect fuel consumption because the
timing is retarded and fuel combustion may not be complete.
The DC voltage from the knock
sensor is not much of an indication
of its condition although 8.87V is an
fiers. Can you give some information
about their sound? Are they very
similar or has the Class-A design some
advantage in this regard?
According to your measurements,
there shouldn’t be much between
them. But you don’t say anything
about the sound in the articles. (E. P.,
Soderkoping, Sweden).
• Both amplifiers are extremely good
but the Class-A unit still has a slight
edge. Mind you, you can only pick
this if you have very good speakers
(and discerning ears!) and you take the
signal directly from a good-quality CD
player with no intervening preamp
lifier. In fact, most people would have
a hard time picking the difference if
you ran double-blind tests.
Having said that, the much higher
power output of the bigger amplifier
will be a distinct advantage if you have
a large listening room or speakers that
are not particularly efficient. This is
most important if you are listening
to music with a very wide dynamic
range.
So if you have a small room and
reasonably efficient speakers, go for
the Class-A amplifier for the very
best listening experience. Otherwise,
choose the Ultra-LD Mk.2 – we have
unusually high voltage. These sensors are typically piezoelectric and
do not develop a DC voltage but an
AC signal with engine noise.
If the injector duty cycle you
measure is 91-96% at idle then we
suspect you are measuring the “off”
period of the injector. So the actual
duty cycle at idle would in fact be
4-9% which still seems a little high.
A 91% duty cycle would only be
obtained when the engine is under
load, not at idle.
A 100% duty cycle does mean
the injectors are open all the time.
Generally, each injector controls
the fuel to each cylinder although
the mixture in the inlet manifold is
available for any cylinder that has
its inlet valve open.
If you are not certain about your
car’s electronics and it is not performing as it should, we suggest that
you take it to a reliable mechanic and
have it fully serviced.
had many reports that readers are very
pleased with it.
Composite
video problem
I have a radioteletype terminal that
outputs 1V composite video. When
originally connected to old green/
amber monitors the text generated by
the terminal was OK on screen but
now when connected to either an LCD
monitor or CRT with composite (yellow RCA) in, the first few characters
on the lefthand side are missing.
A friend has an identical terminal
Ozitronics
Tel: (03) 8677 1411 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2009<at>ozitronics.com
4-Channel
Temperature
Monitor and
Controller
Features 4 temperature inputs (DS1820)
and 4 relays for output control. Simple text
commands via RS232 to read temperature
and control relays. Can be controlled by
terminal program or via free Windows application. Pluggable screw terminals for
sensors and relay outputs. K190 $104.50
More kits and all documentation available on website:
www.ozitronics.com
May 2009 97
Electronic Ignition On Vintage Car
I have a 1932 Alvis 12/50 car and
am considering fitting electronic
ignition. I see being able to keep
the spark timing more precise as a
great benefit.
The drive to the current magneto
has quite a lot of backlash and I
think the timing should be set from
the crankshaft (flywheel) to get it
more precise. I’d imagine using a
Hall-effect sensor looking at a peg
or hole on the flywheel rim. Timing
an electronic system off the existing
magneto drive wouldn’t give very
much improvement!
I’m sure you’ve been asked this
kind of thing a million times, but
would your Programmable HighEnergy Ignition System be suitable
for my situation, please?
I’d want to hide the box and
coil and then feed the plugs from
the distributor cap of the magneto
(any backlash, etc at this position
wouldn’t matter). Any problems
with this?
At present, the ignition timing
can be adjusted via a rotary hand
control on the steering column. I’d
like to keep this feature. Would it be
possible to set up the system to have
manually-controlled timing around
a basically fixed setting, eg, with the
hand-controller operating a rheostat
and has the same problem with various displays.
One suggestion was to try a widescreen display but the same problem
occurs. The characters are not hidden
by the escutcheon but instead cropped
some distance in from the lefthand
side of the screen. I don’t believe a
monitor with image position adjustments will solve the problem, as the
video is apparently being clipped by
the processing circuitry in the monitor.
Unfortunately, there are no adjustments in the terminals to correct the
problem.
Another suggestion was that a
monitor capable of underscan was
needed or a means of adjusting the
composite signal to achieve that. (D.
V., via email).
• It is probably stating the obvious
but this is a problem of incompatible
video signal standards. Your RTTY
98 Silicon Chip
or something? I’d only need about
20-30° of variation at the most.
It’s a 4-cylinder 4-stroke engine.
Would I need a half-speed signal? I
don’t think an extra spark approaching non-firing TDC would matter at
all. There’s virtually no valve overlap anyway! It doesn’t rev very fast
so four sparks per rev shouldn’t be
too demanding!
Are there any reasons why this
sort of ignition wouldn’t be advisable for an old engine like mine? If
the “standard” arrangement would
be OK, I’d probably buy a set from
Jaycar.
I want to keep my old car fairly authentic but see no harm in utilising
some more up-to-date technologies.
(R. T., via email).
• You could trigger off the flywheel if necessary but then the
ignition would need to be set for
an 8-cylinder engine and have the
wasted spark. As you say, the low
RPM means that this will not be a
problem. An adjustable spark can be
had using a potentiometer (wiper)
connected to the knock sensor input with a potentiometer providing
a voltage between 0V and 5V. The
supply (5V) can be obtained from
the circuit where the MAP sensor
supply is provided.
terminal would probably be designed
to deliver video with a horizontal
scan rate of 15,750Hz and a field rate
of 60Hz. However, a modern monitor
may expect signals at much higher
sweep and field (refresh) rates.
The best approach would probably
be to use a video monitor which can
accept NTSC composite video signals.
Bogus amplifier
comparison in hifi shop
I have recently built the Ultra-LD
Mk.2 ThermalTrak Amplifier kit with
no major dramas.
I took it to the local hifi shop to put
it through its paces up against some
of the big boys (NAD, Monarch, Krell
etc). I was told by the shop owner that
the amplifier was lacking in dynamics in the low-frequency region. It has
two 300VA toroidals (one per module)
and 13,000μF of capacitance per supply rail.
What are your ideas on this problem
and a potential fix, if possible? (S. G.,
via email).
• There is nothing wrong with your
amplifier. If built as described, it will
have a frequency response which is
absolutely flat to well below 10Hz. In
fact, it is only -3dB at 4Hz; way below
normal program content and below
what any CD, SACD, DVD or any other
program source can deliver.
Even if it was absolutely flat to DC,
you could not get any more bass out of
your amplifier unless you deliberately
bass-boosted the program source. In
fact, did you notice any deficiency in
the sound quality of your amplifier
compared to the commercial units?
Our bet is that your amplifier sounded
equally as good, if not better.
Such hifi dealers do their reputation great harm by engaging in such
nonsense. In fact, why expose yourself to such gobbledegook? You must
know they are not really interested in
the truth. They are only interested in
selling you a high-priced commercial
amplifier.
Display problem
on digital tacho
I have constructed the Digital
Tachometer featured in the April
2000 edition. I followed the test and
calibration section and the voltages
from the regulator are correct. The
tacho has been set according to these
instructions.
The problem is that the display
will not show anything when 12V is
applied. If I lightly touch the common
emitter junctions of transistors Q1-Q4
the display will light as it should and
then I can set the tacho using S1-S3. It
is frustrating to be so close to having
it finished but still not usable, as the
finished kit looks excellent.
I am not familiar with the 18-pin
chip but the problem suggests that
maybe there is some grounding problem? The battery voltage is a bit low
at 9V but the unit can be set OK. Is the
main 18-pin chip sensitive to static?
Any help would be appreciated. (P.
M., via email).
• Check that you have used BC328
transistors for Q1, Q2 & Q3 and a
BC338 for Q4. Check the connections
to IC2b from the transistor emitters to
IC2b’s pin 6 input and the LDR connecsiliconchip.com.au
tion to pin 5. With the LDR shorted, the
display should be at full brightness.
VR1 sets display brightness.
ACT has all-day
school speed zones
I am writing in relation to the article
“School Zone Speed Alert” that was
published in the April 2009 issue. On
page 37 under the heading “What It
Does” it quotes the times during which
the “School Zone” is effective as being
08:00 to 09:30 and 14:30 to 16:00.
This may be correct for some states
(including NT?) but not all. The article seems to “imply” that these times
are “common throughout Australia”.
However, in the ACT “School Zones”
operate all day.
I live in Queanbeyan and have on
occasion either worked in the ACT or
had to cross the border to go shopping
and from memory believe that their
School Zones operate from 08:00 to
16:00 with NO gap between 09:30
and 14:30.
As such, would the existing program handle this or would it need to
be reprogrammed with a location (ie,
the state or territory in which it will
be used). In the latter case, this could
possibly based on a variant of the
state’s STD code, keeping in mind, for
example, that the ACT and NSW share
the 02 STD code and the same situation may also exist for Vic/Tas & SA/
NT. An alternative code might be to
simply assign 0 to the ACT, 1 to NSW,
2 to Qld, etc. (P. M., Karabar, NSW).
• The School Zone Speed Alert
should be able to cope with a single
8-hour school zone such as you advise
operates in the ACT, simply by setting
the start and finish times for one of the
two zones provided to the appropri-
Notes & Errata
Dual-Booting With Two Hard Drives,
January 2009: the command given
for opening the menu.lst file in both
step 3 on page 15 and step 2 on
page 17 is incorrect. It should read:
sudo gedit /boot/grub/menu.lst (ie,
there must be a space after “gedit”).
Serviceman’s Log, March 2009: on
page 56, the web address given to
obtain the anti-spyware program
“Ad-Aware” is incorrect. It should
be www.lavasoft.com Note that a
freeware version is available.
Note also that this software is
from Lavasoft, not Grisoft as stated
in the article.
GPS Synchronised Clock, March
2009: in Fig.1 & Fig.2, the 3V & 5V
markings for the GPS voltage selection are reversed. To set the circuit
to 3.3V, to suit the EM-408 module,
the jumper must be placed on the
pair of pins nearest the PIC microcontroller, ie, opposite to that shown
in the photographs.
Multi-Function Remote Controlled
Lamp Dimmer, April 2009: to further
secure the mains wiring, we recommend that an additional cable tie be
added to secure the Active, Neutral
& Earth leads immediately after the
connections to the IEC socket (see
ate times, say 08:00 and 16:00. The
other time zone could be ignored (ie,
left at its default settings) or could be
set to the same start and finish times
if you wish.
Another option would be to set the
above photo). A second cable tie can
then be added to secure the leads
going to the GPO socket.
School Zone Speed Alert, April
2009: when setting the current time
or any of the speed zone start or finish times, take care to end the setting
process using a second press of the
same pushbutton switch S1-S5 used
to begin that setting process.
If you accidentally press another
of these switches, the firmware may
“lock up” and you’ll need to unlock
it by pressing the reset button S10
and holding it down for about five
seconds. You will then have to reset both the current time and any of
the start and finish times that have
been customised, because resetting
causes a return to all of the default
values.
“AM” zone start and finish to 08:00
and 12:00 and the “PM” zone start and
finish to 12:00 and 16:00 – so the two
zones are contiguous.
No reprogramming of the PIC’s firmSC
ware should be required.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC
voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other
high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability
for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON
CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to
the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2009 99
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
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The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
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PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
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A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
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April
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PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
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A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
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The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
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on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
See
Review
March
2010
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
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FOR SALE
TECH REPAIRS SERVICE MANUALS
www.techrepairs.org – thousands of
downloadable service manuals for all
brands, makes and models including
PDP, LCD, VCR, DVD, CTV, Vintage
Radio, Laptops, Monitors, Vacuum
Cleaners, Washing Machines, Dryers,
Fridges and many more. An absolute
must have website for any Tech!
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others. Ph
(02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.com.
au; www.rcsradio.com.au
LEDs! NICHIA SUPERBRIGHT LEDs,
Cree XR-E and 5mm LEDs, Avago
(HP) LEDs, many other standard and
superbright brand name LEDs. Plus,
see our new range of nixie clocks! www.
ledsales.com.au
SALE - THOUSANDS OF ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS. ICs, pots, transistors, relays and more. Business closed.
Great prices. List sent on request. (03)
5494 3290.
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
WANTED
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
o
Visa Card o Master Card
Card No.
Signature_____________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _________________________________________________________
Street _________________________________________________________
Suburb/town ______________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:______________ Fax:______________ Email:___________________
102 Silicon Chip
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS,
Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books,
Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon,
SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Tannoy, Goodmans, Wharfedale, radio and wireless. Collector/
Hobbyist will pay cash. (07) 5471 1062.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
CUSTOMERS: Truscotts Electronic
World – large range of semiconductors
and passive components for industry,
hobbyist and amateur projects includ. . . continued on page 104
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT
WIZARD
NEW!
A revolutionary new
system that combines
circuit design, PCB design,
simulation & CAD/ CAM in
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your pc.
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Outstanding Quality
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Ideal for Schools,
TAFEs, Hobbyists & Business
96 Malcolm Rd, Braeside Vic 3195
Tel: 03 9588 2828
Fax: 03 9588 2818
Email: sales<at>pcbeze.com
Circuit Wizard Standard – $225*
*inc GST &
Circuit Wizard Pro – $434*post
in Aust.
555Electronics
19 Kensington St, Clovelly Park,
SA 5042 Tel (08) 8277 8936
email: bwigley<at>senet.com.au
www.555electronics.com.au
C O N T R O L S
Tough times
demand innovative solutions!
Battery Packs & Chargers
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
SPK360
3/5/06used1:10
PM world-wide
Page 1
Made in Australia,
by OEMs
Siomar Battery Engineering
www.batterybook.com
Phone (08) 9302 5444
splat-sc.com
2 x 100MSa/s 10bit inputs + trigger
100MHz bandwidth
8 x digital inputs
4M samples/input
Sig-gen + spectrum analyser
Windows 98/Me/NT/2k/XP
IMAGECRAFT C COMPILERS
ANSI C compilers, Windows IDE
AVR, TMS430, ARM7/ARM9
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12
20 years experience!
VIDEO - AUDIO - PC
distribution amps - splitters
digital standards converters - tbc's
switchers - cables - adaptors
genlockers - scan converters
bulk vga cable - wallplates
HI-FISPEAKER REPAIRS
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
www.grantronics.com.au
Specialising in UK, US and Danish brands.
Speakerbits are your vintage, rare and collectable speaker
repair experts. Foam surrounds, voice coils, complete
recone kits and more. Original OEM parts for Scan-Speak,
Dynaudio, Tannoy, JBL, ElectroVoice and others!
SPK360
YOUR EXPERT SPEAKER REPAIR SPECIALISTS
DVS5c & DVS5s
High Performance
Video / S-Video
and Audio Splitters
tel: 03 9647 7000 www.speakerbits.com
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
MD12 Media Distribution Amplifier
QUEST
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Quest AV®
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
High quality
Realistic prices
Free software updates
Large range of adaptors
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
Keep your copies safe with
these handy binders
VGA Splitter
VGS2
HQ VGA
Cables
Quest Electronics® Pty Limited abn 83 003 501 282 t/a Questronix
Available Aust. only. Price: $A13.95 plus $7
p&p per order (includes GST). Just fill in and
mail the handy order form in this issue; or
fax (02) 9939 2648; or call (02) 9939 3295 and
quote your credit card number.
Products, Specials & Pricelist at www.questronix.com.au
fax (02) 4341 2795
phone (02) 4343 1970
email: questav<at>questronix.com.au
Buy five and get them postage free!
AWP1
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May 2009 103
Do you eat,
breathe
and sleep
TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities exist for
experienced Sales Professionals
& Store Management across
Australia & NZ
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian owned, international
retailer with more than 60 stores in Australia and New Zealand. Due
to our aggressive expansion program we are seeking dedicated sales
professionals to join our retail team to assist us in achieving our goals. We
pride ourselves on technical expertise from our staff. Do you think that the
following statements describe you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of core electronics, particularly at a component level
Retail experience, highly regarded
Assemble projects or kits yourself for your car, computer, audio etc
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys helping people
Opportunities for future advancement and development
Why not do something you love and get paid for it?
Please email us your applicaton & CV in PDF format, including location
preference. We offer a competitive salary, sales incentive and have a
generous staff purchase policy. Applications should be emailed to
jobs <at> jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an Equal Opportunity Employer
& actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
RFMA RF Modules Australia
Low Power Wireless Connectivity Specialists
Applications: Parani-SD100
Laptop/PDA
Bluetooth Serial Adapter
OEM Bluetooth Module
comms,
control In Stock NOW!
In Stock NOW!
AT Interface & measurement. Range 100m to 1Km
Rural
No drivers
Power: +18dBm
Class 1
Industrial
Range of upto 1Km
Data rate: upto 115200bps
Bluetooth Spec: V2.0+EDR
Commercial
SENA: OEM Bluetooth Modules and Serial Adapters
Parani-ESD1000
RF Modules Australia. P.O. Box 1957 Launceston, TAS., 7250.
Ph: 03-6331-6789. Email: sales<at>rfmodules.com.au. Web: rfmodules.com.au
Market Centre . . .
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
ing Drew Diamond. 27 The Mall, South
Croydon, Melbourne. (03) 9723 3860.
electronicworld<at>optusnet.com.au
WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
PO Box 631, Hillarys, WA 6923
Ph: (08) 9307 7305 Fax: (08) 9307 7309
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net.au
continued from page 102
KIT ASSEMBLY
KEITH RIPPON KIT ASSEMBLY &
REPAIR:
* Australia & New Zealand;
* Small production runs.
Phone Keith 0409 662 794.
keith.rippon<at>gmail.com
TESTING
AUDIO AMPLIFIER distortion testing,
frequency response etc, using AUDIO
PRECISION instrument. Basic test $50
(incl GST). MURABAN LABS ph 0408
611 371.
www.iinet.net.au/~worcom
Looking for real
performance?
From the publisher
s of
• Projects to control nitrous,
fuel injection & turbo
Intelligent
systems
• Switch devices on and
off according to signal
frequency, temperature & voltage
• Build test instruments to check fuel injector duty cycle, fuel mixtures and brake &
temperature
Mail order prices: Aust. $A22.50 (incl. GST
& P&P); Overseas $A26.00 via airmail. See
www.siliconchip.com.au for details.
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294
9 78095
8 5229
-4
46
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ
$22.00 (inc GST)
TURBO BOO
ST
& nitrou
s fuel controllers
How engine
management
works
Circuit & Design Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea? If so, sketch it out, write a brief description of its operation & send it to us. Provided your idea is workable & original, we’ll publish it in Circuit
Notebook & you’ll make some money. We pay up to $100 for a good circuit idea or you
could win some test gear. Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
104 Silicon Chip
Advertising Index
555 Electronics............................. 103
Alternative Technology Assoc......... 59
Altronics............................ loose insert
Amalgen Technologies.................... 10
Amateur Scientist CDs.................... 68
Aunet............................................... 11
Dick Smith Electronics............... 18-19
Emona Instruments......................... 69
Grantronics................................... 103
Hare & Forbes................................... 3
High Profile Communications........ 102
Instant PCBs................................. 103
Jaycar............................IFC,49-56,104
Keith Rippon................................. 104
LED Sales..................................... 102
MicroZed Computers........................ 6
Mornsun.......................................... 78
Muraban Labs............................... 104
Ocean Controls................................. 8
Oatley Electronics......................... IBC
Ozitronics........................................ 97
PCBCART....................................... 59
PCBEZE........................................ 103
Quest Electronics.......................... 103
RCS Radio.................................... 102
RF Modules...........................OBC,104
RMS Parts......................................... 7
Rockby Electronics........................... 9
Sesame Electronics...................... 102
Silicon Chip Binders...................... 103
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 100-101
SC Perf. Elect. For Cars................ 104
Silicon Chip Order Form................. 29
Siomar Battery Industries............. 103
Soundlabs Group.............................. 4
Speakerbits................................... 103
Splat Controls............................... 103
Switchmode Power Supplies........... 57
Tech Repairs................................. 102
Tekmark Australia........................... 10
Tenrod Pty Ltd................................... 5
Truscotts Electronic World............. 102
Wagner Electronics......................... 61
Worldwide Elect. Components...... 104
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON CHIP
designs can be obtained from RCS
Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738 0330.
Fax (02) 9738 0334.
siliconchip.com.au
This kit is almost identical in
its function to our K180 but is
pre-built (requires soldering
of 2 wires). Has individual
limit/reset input for each
channel. Combined with our
TX8 Transmitter (not incl.),
this kit can control any
combination of four output relays in either
momentary or latching operation.
Features inc. range of ~50m, indicator
LEDs, & screw terminals for ease of use.
[K239] $30.00
SPARE TRANSMITTER TO SUIT K239
This small key fob transmitter is used in
conjunction with the K239. Uses a prebuilt and pre-aligned 433MHz UHF code
hopping transmitter module. Includes
transmitter module, battery clips, battery
and key-fob case. [TX8] $15.00
TX9 4CH CODE HOPPING UHF TRANSMITTER
Small KEYFOB 433MHz SAW resonator locked,
microprocessor code encoding 4
channel transmitter. Gives over
200M range, even with some
obstructions in the path, with
the sensitive RX9 receiver.
The range can be increased
to around 1.5KM by adding
[TX9] $16.00
our TX01 transmitter module.
RX9 CODE HOPPING RECEIVER MODULE
Sensitive (-115dbM) dual conversion
SAW RESONATOR LOCKED,
superhetrodyne 433MHz UHF
receiver module with microprocessor code hopping decoding.
Four outputs (D0-D3) go high when
the corresponding transmitter button
(TA-TD) or a combination of buttons is/are
pressed (as a result it can be used to
transmit parallel data), and the VT output goes high
when any of the transmitter buttons are pressed. Can
learn over 100 transmitters. The learning push button
and an indicator LED are included on the small PCB.
PCB dimensions are 38 x 24mm, 5V/13mA operation.
Gives over 200M range, even with some obstructions in
the path, when used with our TX9. [RX9] $19.00
LCD DIGITAL
THERMOMETER
"Inside" & "outside"
temperatures,
Features includes
clock function display.
Outside sensor on
1.5M cable.
[1TEMP] $11.00
12VDC MOTOR AND SPEED
CONTROLLER KIT
PACKAGE DEAL
This package includes our
popular and powerful K252 speed
controller kit and a compact yet powerful
DC motor. This motor was designed
for automotive use. It has a connection
on the rear for a hose to apply
positive pressure to stop dust or
water ingress. Measures 60mm
Dia. X 110 overall. Special
introductory price of $29.00
[K252M2]
AS NEW
SEAWARD RC500
RCCB
TEST UNIT
PRECISION TRUE RMS AUTORANGING
5½ DIGIT MICROVOLT DMM
These unit has an LCD which
measures the time taken for a
RCCB to trip. Various currents
can be dialled up. These units
are in excellent condition and
include their leather carry case.
[1AZ90] $99.00
VERY
K
STOC
Unused Keithley model 197 TRUE RMS Digital
Multimeter. It includes a RF probe making it useful for
1mV-1/100V (with the optional divider, which is
included) RF measurements, with a frequency range of
20KHz-100MHz. It can be also configured for 4 terminal
resistance measurement with a resolution of 1milliohm.
Actually this is a model 1972 because it includes an IEE488 interface option and includes an analogue output.
Included are a Quick Reference Guide, Operation &
Servicing manual for the DMM, and the Operation and
Servicing Manual for the 1973/1972 IEEE Interface.
Accessories included are: Multimeter leads. SDRF-28
RF Probe and tip set. SDFT-50 50ohm feed-through
termination. SDD-100 100:1 divider. [1AZ76] $579.00
MORE TEST
EQUIPMENT ON
OUR WEBSITE.
SPECIAL
BRAND NEW
HIGH CURRENT
MOTOR START
RELAY 600V 24A
Sprecher + Schuh
CA3-9=CT3(K) DIN
rail / screw mount.
240V coil. Approx 68 X
45 X 80mm. [MSR] $16.00
15M ROLL
RG6/U 75 OHM
Quad shield
TV CO-AXIAL
CABLE
[RG6A] $9.00
ED
LIMIT
$9
NEW 240V / 50W HALOGEN DOWNLIGHT
Crompton brand, model
DLGU50Z. Brand new in
original packaging. Fixed
round die cast aluminium
downlight. Includes one 240V
/ 50W Halogen lamp and a
ceramic GU10 50W lamp
holder in a satin finish. No
transformer required. Colour:
Satin Chrome. Weight: 250g.
Dimensions: 90mm (DIA) x
72mm (H).WARNING: These must be installed by a
qualified electrician. [DL240] $7.70
24V LARGE 500W DC MOTOR
This motor comes with
a 12mm shaft fitted with
a 11 tooth sprocket.
Voltage: 24VDC
Rated RPM: 2500
Rated Current: 27A
Output: 500W
Dimensions: Motor
Body: 140mm L X 107mm D Overall length: 164mm
3.9KG [SC524] $89.00 Available in 36V [SC536]
$10
$89 9.00
.00
K270 - TUBE PREAMPLIFIER KIT
This low cost tube
preamplifier
lets you
experience
tube
sound.
The K270 is based
on two low power consumption
Raytheon JAN6418 sub-miniature
pentodes. Kit is comes with PCB & onboard parts [K270]
$29
NEW LONG RANGE UHF
TRANSMITTER MODULE
This module requires only three
connections: Data, Ground and
+3V or +5V. The range is
dependant on the supply
voltage used, with +3V the
range is around 2 Km or with
+5V around 4Km. Dimensions:
27mm X 20mm X 12mm
including connection pins,
6mm if pins are cut or removed.
Shown here actual size.
WARNING:
If powered from +5V the output
from this module may exceed
legal limits. [TX03] $18
173mm
ANTENNA WIRE
K239 - VIRTUALLY
PRE-BUILT CODE
HOPPING 4 CHANNEL
REMOTE CONTROL
POLYCRYSTALLINE SOLAR PANELS
These panels are waterproof, aluminium framed and
covered with tempered glass. Connections are made to
the screw terminals that are inside the small box at the
rear of the panel.
8W SOLAR
ARRAY
Includes two 4W 6V polycrystalline
solar panels. Connect in parallel for a 6V - 8W array Or
connect in series for 12V - 8W output, Peak: 4W ea.
Open Circuit: 10.6V Short Circuit: 0.5A Max.: 8.5V,
Max.:0.47A, 254x294x23mm, 900g [2XSP4W6] $80.00
20W-12V POLYCRYSTALLINE SOLAR PANEL
Peak: 20W, Open
Circuit: 21.5V, Short
Circuit: 1.3A, Max.:
17.2V, Max.: 1.15A,
639 x 294 x 23mm
2.5kgs [SP20]
$192.00
100W SOLAR PANEL ARRAY & REGULATOR KIT
This 100W solar array includes five 20W - 12V
polycrystalline solar panels, a 12V/24V regulator kit and
weatherproof box for the kit. [ARRAY] $740.00
Note: these panels may vary slightly from photographs.
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box
NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
siliconchip.com.au
M89
ay Oatley
2009 105
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
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