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Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Astor DL 4-valve
mantel receiver
An austerity model for the post-war era
The Astor DL is a little broadcast-band
4-valve mantel receiver that’s housed in a
bakelite case. The circuit is quite simple
but it still had quite a few challenges in
store for me.
A
FELLOW CLUB member recently
decided to tackle the restoration
of an old Astor DL 4-valve receiver for
a friend of his. He began by cleaning
the set and then replacing any parts
that, based on experience, were likely
to be faulty or which might give trouble later on. The replacement parts
were fitted in exactly the same places
as the originals, to conform to the
90 Silicon Chip
original layout. This is always a good
idea unless you are very experienced.
Deviating from the original layout can
lead to instability and other problems.
However, despite his careful work,
my friend ran into all sorts of problems with this set, particularly with
microphonics and instability. We’ll
take a closer look at the work he did
and the steps we took to overcome the
problems later on. First though, let’s
take a look at the circuit.
Circuit details
The Astor DL is one of the few sets
not featured in the Australian Official
Radio Service Manuals (AORSM) and
so few restorers have any information
on this set. However, I was fortunate
enough to have a copy of “Those
‘Missing’ Radio Services Manuals”,
1939-1942, which was compiled by
the late Ray Kelly. It also has some
service data on a few 1947 receivers
that were missed in the AORSMs and
the Astor DL is included. Without the
circuit, I could have been chasing my
tail sorting out the problems in this set
for quite some time.
Fig.1 shows the circuit details.
As can be seen, the antenna circuit
uses both capacitive top-coupling
and inductive coupling to the tuned
secondary winding. The tuned signal
is applied to the signal grid of a 6A8G
valve which functions as the converter
(ie, mixer and local oscillator). The
oscillator tuned circuit (bottom left of
Fig.1) operates 455kHz higher than the
tuned signal and mixing these signals
produces the 455kHz IF (intermediate
frequency) signal (along with others).
This 455kHz IF signal is applied to
the first IF transformer (37) which is
tuned to 455kHz. It is then applied to
a 6B8G IF amplifier stage after which it
is fed to the detector and AGC diodes
in the 6B8G envelope. The detected
(or demodulated) audio signal appears across the associated 0.5MΩ
resistor (23).
From there, the audio signal is fed
via a 0.05µF (50nF) capacitor (6) to a
6V6G audio output valve, then to the
speaker transformer and finally to the
loudspeaker. Astor were renowned
for their complex and quite effective
tone-cum-negative feedback circuits
but in this receiver, this circuitry is
missing and has been replaced with a
very simple negative feedback system.
This consists of taking the cathode
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is quite simple and consists of a converter
(6A8G), a 455kHz IF (intermediate frequency) amplifier and
detector (6B8G), an audio output valve (6V6G) and a rectifier
(5Y3G).
return of the 6V6G to earth via the
voice coil of the speaker. It gives
around 3dB of negative feedback
which is probably all that could be
tolerated in a set with only one audio
stage. Any more and the volume would
have been unacceptably low on weaker
stations.
It’s puzzling as to why Astor didn’t
take the 300Ω cathode resistor (31)
straight to the chassis and simply connect the 25µF electrolytic capacitor
(12) to the voice coil. The feedback
would have been almost the same
but with no DC current through the
voice coil. This would mean that the
cone would rest in its natural position
instead of being biased away from this
neutral point.
In theory, the DC offset in the Astor
DL will restrict the volume that can
be reached without undue distortion.
However, since there’s only one audio stage and the volume is limited
anyway, it really did not matter in
this receiver.
siliconchip.com.au
The volume is controlled by using
a 25kΩ potentiometer (34) to vary the
cathode resistance on the 6A8G converter valve. This effectively varies the
bias to the signal grid of the valve. The
oscillator section is not affected, as its
bias is developed across an oscillator
grid resistor (24) of 50kΩ and is not
reliant on the cathode-to-earth voltage.
When the receiver is operating at
full volume, the wiper of the 25kΩ pot
will be at the end attached to the 250Ω
fixed cathode resistor. Conversely,
winding the pot the other way (ie, to
minimum volume) gives the maximum
series resistance and the signal grid
section of the valve will be biased off.
As a result, there is little or no audio
output from the receiver (this will depend on the individual characteristics
of the particular valve in use).
As mentioned in the recent articles
on automatic gain control (AGC), it
really is difficult to understand why
AGC was omitted from so many designs. More up-market receivers from
the same manufacturers and of the
same vintage had AGC as a matter of
course and in this receiver it would
have been easy and cheap to include it.
Of course, it’s possible that some
manufacturers deliberately omitted
AGC from their cheaper receivers in
order to make it a selling point in their
more expensive sets!
Power supply circuitry
Power is supplied to the receiver
via a mains transformer, while a 5Y3G
rectifies the output from the centretapped HT winding. Note that the
primary is tapped so that the receiver
can be used with any 50Hz AC supply
from 200-250VAC.
The two plates of the 5Y3G are
connected to either end of the HT secondary winding, while the centre-tap
goes to chassis. The HT output is then
taken from the heater and applied to
a filter network consisting of a choke
(or inductor) and two 8µF electrolytic
capacitors (one on either side). These
October 2010 91
*
* See Panel
*
This view shows the underside of the chassis minus the metal shield for the
6B8G IF stage. Note the proximity of the mains connections to the edge of
the chassis. By the way, we don’t recommend using a cable gland to secure
the mains lead, nor do we recommend soldering the mains Earth lead
directly to the chassis (see panel for more details).
provide the necessary ripple filtering
on the HT line.
The transformer also has two filament windings – a 5V winding for the
5Y3G rectifier and a 6.3V winding for
the remaining valve heaters. The dial
lamps are fed from a tap on the 6.3V
winding. As a result, around 5V is applied to the lamps which means that
they will last longer than if the full
6.3V was applied.
Note that the three valves in the signal chain (6A8G, 6B8G & 7V6G) all use
cathode bias. This circuit technique
was common from the 1930s-50s but
was generally superseded by back bias
in the 1960s, as this was both simpler
92 Silicon Chip
and cheaper. Back bias did have one
disadvantage though – checking the
current through each individual valve
by measuring the voltage drop across
the cathode resistor was no longer
possible.
Physical details
As can be seen from the photos, a
small brown bakelite cabinet was used
to house the Astor DL chassis. Indeed,
this same cabinet style was used for
many 4-valve Astor sets.
In terms of appearance, it is quite an
appealing little receiver with a large
dial scale. This dial scale has no slots
in it, unlike many other dial scales. As
a result, the speaker is mounted at the
lefthand end of the chassis and faces
out to one side.
The dial scale uses a normal “slide
type” pointer system and works well.
The drive mechanism uses a drive
shaft with two or three turns of dial
cord wound around it and then connected to the pointer and a dial drum.
The chassis is easily removed from
the cabinet. First, the four screws holding the Masonite back on the set are
removed, then the two control knobs
and finally the two retaining screws
that attach the back edge of the chassis
to the cabinet. The set can then be slid
out of the cabinet.
That done, the first thing to note
is that the power supply and the
converter stage of the receiver are intermingled. As a result, it is necessary
to be sure which part of the circuit is
being worked on. A problem that was
experienced later on made us wonder
if some unwanted interaction was taking place between these two sections
but more of that later.
The loudspeaker and its transformer
are mounted at the other end of the
chassis to the power supply. This is
good practice as it minimises any hum
induction into the speaker transformer
from the power transformer. The IF
valve is near the front of the chassis,
making it difficult to access when the
chassis is in the cabinet. In addition,
the “up-in-the-air” mounting arrangement for the antenna coil makes it
vulnerable to damage when the set is
being serviced or restored.
The under-chassis parts are all easily accessed, although the 6B8G has a
shield over the socket to minimise any
IF feedback that could lead to instability. One thing you do have to be mindful of when tipping the chassis over for
service is that the mains terminations
are easily touched, since they are quite
close to the edge of the chassis. If the
set is connected to power, then it’s all
too easy to receive a potentially fatal
electric shock.
My advice is to always disconnect
such sets from the wall socket when
turning them over to avoid such risk.
In addition, you should always use a
residual current device (RCD) protected power socket when servicing old
radio sets. That way, if you do make
accidental contact with the mains,
there is less chance of electrocution.
In my opinion, Astor should have
covered the transformer mains wirsiliconchip.com.au
ing terminals for safety reasons. They
should also have positioned the antenna coil better so it could not be so
easily damaged during service.
Cleaning the cabinet
The cabinet and the knobs were
in quite good condition and only
required cleaning. First, the cabinet
was washed with soapy water, taking
care not to get the dial scale wet. The
knobs were then cleaned in the same
way, with a nailbrush used to clean the
grime from between the flutes.
Finally, the cabinet was rubbed
over using automotive cut and polish
compound and this brought out its
original lustre. It now looks almost as
good as new.
Chassis restoration
My friend had done a considerable
amount of work on the old Astor before
seeking my help with some stubborn
technical problems. First, all accessible areas of the chassis had been
carefully cleaned with a small wire
brush and it now looks quite shiny in
those places.
Unfortunately though, someone before him had tried cleaning the back of
the dial scale with the result that some
of the markings had been removed.
This is a job that must always be approached with caution. Some station
and frequency identifications on dial
scales are firmly attached but many are
now only just sitting there, waiting to
fall off if they are touched.
Since first making that same mistake
many years ago, I now always testclean an inconspicuous area to see
how well the markings are attached
to the glass or plastic. If it is about to
fall off, I leave it well alone. One possibility is to spray the markings with
a clear lacquer to keep them in place
but that will very much depend on the
individual set. If there is dust on the
dial scale, this may not work too well.
Both the 5Y3G and 6B8G valves had
been replaced, as the originals tested
faulty in my friend’s valve tester. The
other two valves tested OK and were
cleaned with soapy water before being
reinstalled in their sockets.
Be careful when cleaning valves
though, as some type numbers will
easily come off the valve envelope.
I always tip the octal valves upside
down and only rub soapy water on
the glass envelopes, making sure that
no water gets into the base as this
siliconchip.com.au
The parts on the top of the chassis are readily accessible but mounting the aerial
coil so high up leaves it prone to damage during servicing.
may ruin the valve due to electrical
leakage after it dries. I then leave the
valve to dry before placing it back into
the receiver.
The paper and electrolytic capacitors had all been replaced, while several out-of-tolerance resistors had also
been changed. In addition, any leads
with cracked insulation had been
sleeved to prevent short circuits.
Once this work had been done, my
friend checked for shorts between the
HT line and chassis. Checks were also
carried out on the power transformer
to ensure it wasn’t breaking down
between the various windings and
the frame. These transformer checks
were carried out using a high-voltage
insulation tester, as described some
years ago in SILICON CHIP.
Finally, a new 3-core power lead
was fitted to the set, along with an
antenna and earth. It was time for the
smoke test.
Well, it was all something of an
anti-climax because no radio stations
could be heard, even when the volume
control was at maximum. What my
friend did find though was that the
set was very microphonic, particularly
if any of the RF valves were flicked
with a finger to give them a very mild
physical shock.
Microphonics
For those who haven’t experienced
this effect, many valves in a receiver,
if lightly tapped, will generate a “ringing” noise in the loudspeaker. This
is often due to broken welds in the
valve grid structures vibrating after
being mechanically jolted. However,
it can also occur in valves with no
weld breaks if there is high enough
gain in the amplifier train. That is
why some valves in high-gain audio
amplifier stages are mounted on resilient mounts.
Unfortunately, this ringing sound
was all that my friend was getting out
of the receiver, with no sign of any
stations. As a result, he eventually
Securely Anchoring The Mains Cord
As shown in the photos, the mains cord has been secured to the Astor DL’s chassis
using a cable gland. However, we don’t recommend this method as it’s too easy to
undo the nut securing the gland from outside the case.
Instead, we recommend that an approved cordgrip grommet be used to secure the
mains cable to the chassis. This must be fitted to a correctly profiled hole to ensure it
securely locks the mains cord into place.
We also note that the mains Earth lead has been soldered to the chassis and again
we don’t consider this as being safe and secure (the solder could easily separate from
the chassis). Instead, we recommend that restorers purchase a mains lead with an
eyelet lug pre-crimped to the Earth lead which can then be bolted to the chassis and
secured using a star washer and two lock nuts.
October 2010 93
The chassis is easily slid out of the Bakelite case for servicing. Use a cordgrip
grommet to secure the mains cord, not a cable gland as shown here (see panel).
brought the set over to see if I could
find out what was wrong. Initially, it
seemed as though it might be a faulty
IF amplifier valve and so we tried another 6B8G with no success. We also
tried another 6A8G but that didn’t
help either.
The audio amplifier stage was working well though and gave a healthy
blurt whenever the grid of the 6V6G
was touched. So the problem was
somewhere in the RF or IF stages.
IF instability
A quick check showed that the
voltages around these stage all seemed
to be reasonably normal, so it was
time to bring out the big guns. I have a
tuned signal tracer and placing its RF
probe close to the IF amplifier (6B8G)
showed that it was oscillating vigorously. So what could be wrong around
the IF amplifier?
The first item to be checked was the
screen bypass on the 6B8G. It tested
correctly and the only thing I did was
to shorten its leads and reposition the
chassis earth. This gave no improvement so we turned our attention to
the valve shields. These had become
corroded over the years, so the 6B8G
was removed and the surfaces of the
shield, the circlip and the earthing
spigot on the valve were all cleaned
using a kitchen scouring pad.
I expected that this would fix the
problem but was quickly proved
94 Silicon Chip
wrong – there was no improvement.
My quick fix was quickly turning into
a drawn-out fault-finding exercise.
By now, I was starting to run out
of ideas, especially after all the work
my friend had done to restore the set.
However, after carefully checking his
work, we eventually spotted a wiring
mistake in the set although it’s not certain when this occurred. The 0.05µF
(50nF) capacitor between the cathode
of the 6A8G went to pin 5 of the 6B8G
instead of to pin 8. Since pin 5 is one
of the detector diodes in the 6B8G, this
wiring error very effectively stopped
the stage from detecting signals.
My friend was sure that he hadn’t
touched this section and it certainly
looked as though the soldered joints
there hadn’t been disturbed for many
years. So just how the set got to be that
way is something of a mystery.
We corrected the wiring error and
this time when we applied power, the
set was working. However, something
was still not right. While it was pulling in stations OK, the IF stage was
still oscillating wildly, with the result
that tunable whistles were appearing
across the band.
Well we’d cured one problem only
to uncover another. So why was the IF
stage still oscillating when everything
looked OK? There just had to be another wiring error somewhere.
At this stage, I decided that the best
approach was to carefully check all the
wiring around the front-end and IF amplifier stages. This paid dividends as I
eventually discovered that I couldn’t
find the cathode bypass capacitor on
the frequency converter (6A8G). It
wasn’t hidden from view either – it
just wasn’t there.
In fact, going on the solder joints, it
had never been in the circuit.
My initial reaction was that this
would simply drop the gain of the
converter but that it wasn’t the cause
of the instability problem. However,
the converter would work better if the
missing capacitor was in place and so
this was duly fitted.
When the set was subsequently
turned on, we were surprised to find
that it was no longer oscillating and
that its performance was actually
quite good. So why had the IF stage
oscillated when the bypass capacitor
in another stage was missing?
Positive feedback
The answer is that the 0.05µF bypass
capacitor wired between the cathodes
of both RF valves forms a positive
feedback path. This had the potential
for the set to oscillate on 455kHz and
oscillate it certainly did. By fitting the
missing bypass from the 6A8G cathode
to earth, this controlled the amount
of feedback on 455kHz so that the IF
stage was only slightly regenerative.
In fact, when I looked at all the
general information on the receiver, I
found that this technique was deliberate. Basically, the service bulletin
states that the receiver has some positive feedback to give a small increase
in performance. What really puzzles
me is that the 6A8G cathode bypass
had obviously never been fitted, so it
must have been a dog of a set from new.
Alignment
Having solved the instability problem, it was now time to check the
alignment. The IF stage alignment was
pretty much spot on but the front-end
did require some adjustment. The
receiver would only tune to around
1500kHz at the top end of the dial and
this needed to be extended to cover the
entire broadcast band.
Unfortunately, the wire-type trimmer (20) in the oscillator section
couldn’t be adjusted, so I removed it.
Without this trimmer, the set would
tune up to 2000kHz. I then fitted an
adjustable trimmer and was able to
. . . continued on page 103
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continued from page 94
quite easily adjust the maximum
tuned frequency to 1650kHz.
That done, I adjusted the antenna
trimmer (19) at the high-frequency
end of the dial for best performance.
The performance at the low-frequency end now left a bit to be desired
and this was fixed by tuning to that
end of the dial and adjusting the padder capacitor (17). The adjustments
at both ends were then repeated
a few more times, by which time
this little receiver was performing
quite well.
With the alignment completed,
the chassis was then slid back into
its cabinet so that we could check
the dial-scale calibration. The dial
scale in this set is attached to the
cabinet instead of to the chassis as
in most sets. In practice, it’s simply
a matter of checking the calibration,
then removing the chassis and sliding the pointer along the dial cord
(about 20mm in this case) until the
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Vintage Radio –
indicated station matches the tuned
frequency.
The restoration was now completed by lightly oiling the slider
(the rail that carries the pointer)
and the tuning-gang bearings before
finally securing the chassis inside
the cabinet and attaching the back.
Summary
The Astor DL is an attractive,
if rather heavy, austerity receiver
which was manufactured just after World War II. It’s quite a good
performer – much better than you
would expect of an austerity model
– and is easy to work on. However,
care is needed to ensure that you
don’t come into contact with the
mains terminals under the chassis
when servicing the set (it would be
a good idea to insulate these).
This wasn’t a particularly common model and as such, it is well
SC
worth having in a collection.
continued from page 98
and the microcontroller lines, or (3)
a firmware issue.
Now (1) is unlikely since you’ve
had the same problem with other
cards too. (2) is possible, so check
the PC board thoroughly to rule this
out. Check the voltage to the memory
card and check that the memory
cards are formatted correctly. Finally, while (3) is possible, the firmware
was tested with a number of different
cards and many readers have now
built the kit and it worked for them.
Turbo timer
set-up problem
I built a Turbo Timer kit as described in November 1998 and set
it up to keep the thermo fan running in our prototype amphibious
vehicle after the engine is turned
off. The fan still operates with the
ignition on but won’t run when the
ignition is turned off. The engine
reaches running temperature but the
fan still cuts out when the engine
is switched off. I have tried discon-
necting the temperature sensor and
that didn’t work.
I have sent you a diagram of how it
it is wired. Can someone please have
a look at it and see if I have set it up
wrong? (S. O., via email).
• We checked the wiring from the
diagram you sent and that wiring is
correct. In some cars, the triggering
circuit on the Turbo Timer needs to
be altered so as to trigger it at the time
the ignition is switched off.
A 100Ω 5W resistor can be placed
between contact 30 of relay 1 and
ground. This discharges the ignition supply voltage if it is held
high via capacitance. The resistor
will run quite warm and will need
to be housed appropriately away
from wiring and plastics. It can be
mounted against a metal section of
the vehicle.
Also the 2.2µF capacitor at the pin
2 trigger input to IC1 on the Turbo
Timer may need to be increased to
give a sufficient trigger pulse with
the ignition switched off. Try a value
SC
of 100µF instead.
October 2010 103
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