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June 2011 1
Financial Year End
Clearance
JUNE 2011
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Contents
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.24, No.6; June 2011
Fea tures
14 The FutureWave Energy Saver
At last: here’ s an energy saver that actually does save energy! It’s specifically
intended for use with certain electric motors, especially as used in swimming
pool and spa pumps – by Ross Tester
22 Rescuing Electronic Gear After The Flood
The devastating Queensland floods wiped out a lot of electronic gear. Here’s
how some high-end radio gear was rescued and restored – by Robert Googe
74 HiFi Review: Marantz CD6003 CD Player
DVD players can give good results when playing audio CDs but a dedicated
CD player is still the best way to go. This high-quality CD player from Marantz
features pitch control, a USB input and lots of other goodies – by Leo Simpson
20A 12/24V DC Motor Speed
Controller Mk.2 – Page 28.
Projects To Build
28 20A 12/24V DC Motor Speed Controller Mk.2
This gutsy little motor speed controller is easy to build and features low-battery
protection, soft start and adjustable pulse frequency. It can run from 12V or
24V batteries at currents up to 20A – by John Clarke
36 USB Stereo Recording & Playback Interface
Want to use your laptop or PC to record high-quality stereo audio? This USB
interface unit features balanced mic inputs, stereo analog line inputs & outputs,
an S/PDIF digital audio input and an S/PDIF output – by Jim Rowe
62 VersaTimer/Switch With Self-Latching Relay
Do you have a switching application (up to 230VAC) that calls for a relay but
needs very low current drain? Here’s a micropower switch that also functions
as a programmable timer and/or 12V battery protector – by John Clarke
USB Stereo Recording &
Playback Interface – Page 36.
80 A Handy USB Breakout Box For Project Development
It connects between two USB cables and lets you examine the D+ and Dsignal line activity with your scope and the current flow – by Jim Rowe
Special Columns
57 Serviceman’s Log
There’s just no pleasing some people – by the Serviceman
83 Circuit Notebook
(1) Wireless Doorbell Relay Driver; (2) Microphone Adaptor For A Violin; (3)
Diesel Engine Watchdog Circuit Monitors Oil Pressure & Water Temperature;
(4) PICAXE-Based Metronome With Accented Beat; (5) Multi-Decade PeriodMultiplier For Precision Frequency Comparisons
90 Vintage Radio
VersaTimer Switch With SelfLatching Relay – Page 62.
62.
Radio manufacturing in 1925: the Wells Gardner story – by Kevin Poulter
Departments
2
4
88
95
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
98 Ask Silicon Chip
102 Notes & Errata
103 Market Centre
A Handy USB
Breakout Box – Page 80.
June
June
2011 1
2011 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Let’s forget about a carbon
tax and concentrate on the
environment instead
Since I wrote the Publisher’s Letter entitled “Let’s
have no more of this carbon pollution nonsense” in the
June 2009 issue of SILICON CHIP, the political climate
seems to have changed dramatically – more than I could
ever have expected in such a short time. Not only did
the Copenhagen climate summit collapse in disarray
but there has been a general shift in people’s attitude
to climate change.
While most people seem to feel that climate change is happening and that human
activity is at least partly to blame, there is no consensus on what to do about it.
One thing is certain: the science is no longer “settled”, in spite of the increasingly
shrill declamations by those who are certainly not disinterested. And it seems that
the number of “climate change deniers” has greatly increased.
The Federal Government’s move to introduce a “carbon tax” next year has not
been favourably received and nor does there seem to be any remotely popular
alternative strategy. And there is a growing realisation amongst the populace that
action by Australia will have a significant cost and will have major employment
ramifications. A tiny reduction in our greenhouse gas emissions when they are already virtually insignificant in the total world emissions means the whole process
is futile, if not farcical.
All of which means that recent moves by the Greens political party to ramp up
the use of renewable energy are worrying. They have a long-term aim of making
all energy renewable and hang the consequences, whether it means much higher
prices for electricity or lots of job losses – they simply don’t care.
In an ideal world, we should not have coal-fired power stations and I have written
along these lines in Publisher’s Letters in years past. My opposition to coal-fired
power stations comes not from any concern about carbon dioxide – it is not a pollutant – but with the long-term damage to the landscape and water resources, both
by open-cut and underground mining.
However, there does not seem to be any support by the current Federal Labor
government for any reduction in coal mining, whether for use in power stations
or for export; quite the contrary in fact. With one eye on the union membership
of mines and the power industry and with the other eye on ever-growing royalties
and taxes, there is no stomach at all for any reduction; they want more coal mining, not less. And they want other forms of coal exploitation as well, in the form
of coal-seam gas projects.
Which also means that the current Federal Government’s infatuation with a
carbon tax to combat climate change is hypocritical to say the least. We can state
that the Greens are consistent in this respect – they want to stop all coal mining.
But they pretty much want to stop everything, don’t they?
I am coming around to the view that governments should do nothing to combat
climate change, since its causes are extremely complex and still not understood.
In any case, all previous moves to “do something” by the present government have
been seriously misguided, and that is putting it mildly.
Nor do I think that there is any need to panic. Even if we are experiencing global
warming, as opposed to the much more vague term, “climate change”, there is not
likely to be any “tipping point” in the foreseeable future. Secondly, as Climate
Change Commissioner Tim Flannery has admitted, any action that we do take is
likely to take centuries before it has any measurable effect.
Instead, governments should act to promote economic activity while still doing
all they can to protect our environment. The two aims are not mutually exclusive.
A carbon tax will not have any beneficial effects.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Coping with wide
mains voltage variations
In the same issue as your helpful
auto-transformer voltage bucking project (Mains Moderator, SILICON CHIP,
March 2011) you comment on a related
letter on page 104 by suggesting that
while ferro-resonant AC voltage regulators are best, you are unsure whether
they are still available.
Where the mains voltage is fairly
constant but is the wrong value, your
auto-transformer project naturally is
the best economic solution and provided its ratings are not exceeded nothing will be more reliable. However, for
someone with very variable voltage,
say a household a few miles down
the long country line you instance, a
better solution than a ferro-resonant
transformer might be an on-line or
no-break “sinewave” UPS.
From time to time they can be
bought secondhand on eBay for relatively modest sums, even up to a kVA
or two. They are quiet, fairly efficient
and apart from the gel cells, tend to
be quite reliable. However, as long as
Maximite computer
is a big hit
From the relative isolation of
where I sit, the Maximite looks to
be a big hit.
First, although I owned every issue of ETI & EA from my arrival in
Australia (in late December 1977)
until the mid 1990s, I have never
until now been able to buy SILICON
CHIP more than rarely. This arose
when my life took me well away
from electronics (part career, part
disability). This year, the Maximite
changed all that and I have bought
three consecutive issues.
Second, I decided to buy the kit
from Altronics. What a friendly
and helpful company. Because of
demand forecast, I probably will not
get my kit before June, although they
are working as fast as they can. So
4 Silicon Chip
no hold-up is demanded of them, no
or only a very modest battery will be
needed.
Nevertheless you will be pleased
to know the ferro-resonant regulators
are indeed still manufactured. In addition to Asian sources, the firm that
was perhaps the most well-known of
the traditional suppliers, Sola of the
USA, lists models which are more or
less unchanged from 20 years ago, right
down to the catalog numbers.
You are right that they are pretty
expensive new. They are also unavoidably noisy due to the high degree of
saturation in the core and for the same
reason are pretty lossy and run hot;
full load efficiency would not exceed
85% and no load losses are around
8-10% of nameplate rating, which is
a significant factor these days if they
are run for extended periods.
Ratings tended be quite modest. For
example whereas units of say 100500VA were plentiful, a 1kVA unit was
large, heavy and in my experience not
too common.
At our home on a rural NZ road
I am hoping that Geoff Graham and
readers will keep on developing for
the Maximite.
I must admit to a little surprise.
In the old days, EA & ETI were
meticulous about mentioning errors and updates in the magazine. I
have found online that the originally
printed schematic had an error. Although this was mentioned and corrected online, I think you may be a
little over-dependent on the internet.
On the plus side, I see great potential for this kit, even given my
woeful lack of current electronics
knowledge. The first thing I’d like to
do is add an xxPROM programmer to
the IO lines so that I can fix my old
much-loved EA DATUM. It appears
to need a new ROM and several years
ago its designer promised to send
one but I never got it.
fed by the proverbial “piece of wet
string”, the nominal 230V mains is set
high at around 245V on light load and
regularly varies between about 210V
and 250V. On occasion it gets as low
as 190V. I successfully deploy both
small vintage “ferros” and a Variac
servo regulator to supply my vintage
test gear and receivers. We just accept
the short household lamp (globe) life
though.
John Reid,
Tauranga, NZ.
Film-to-DVD
conversion tricks
I’m sorry that the article on transferring movies to DVD (April 2011)
was not around five years ago when I
needed it. I struggled with all sorts of
electronic magic for timing but I suggest that your readers use DVD Infinity
at North Sydney for easy and excellent
results on mini-cassettes or DVDs.
But this is the only the start of the
problems. Older film has a nasty way
of twisting, distorting and shrinking.
If you look along it, it appears curved
The second is that I’ve always
dreamed of building a small, portable computer in the form factor
of a portable game machine plus
slide-out keyboard or PS2 socket
and four USB ports. An SD or CF
card slot would hide in the battery
compartment (AA or C for long life).
I think that if I built a “Maximite
2” with a NewHaven (from Jameco.
com) parallel LCD and the 100-pin
PIC32, then I am well on the way.
This is a HUGE project for my background and help from others would
absolutely be loved. Software-wise,
my preference would be a characterbased menu system like the old
QuickBASIC or free QBASIC.
I just hope Maximite will be a
blockbuster for us all.
David Morton,
Geeveston, Tas.
siliconchip.com.au
Why are hearing aids
so expensive?
crosswise. This means that as it crosses
“the gate” in the projector, the centre
is out of focus with the edges or viceversa.
I suggest your readers contact “The
Redcliffe Picture Palace” in Queensland for advice on their “Liquid Film
Plasticiser”. This treatment may take
12 or more weeks but with it you will
be able to get consistent focus. Then
I suggest you send it off to DVD Infinity and you will be thrilled with the
results. I got great results from a 1948
standard 8mm film that had been badly
warped.
Robert Armstrong,
Toronto, NSW.
I wonder why hearing aids are
so expensive. In all other fields of
electronic endeavour, costs have
benefited through advancing technology but hearing aids seem to have
missed out. For example, I bought
the latest and best computer with
LCD screen, with lots of software,
as much memory as it would take,
the largest hard drive available and
a multifunction printer. The bill was
$2349.01.
About 19 months later, I bought
two hearing aids, digital but not
the most expensive, and they cost
$2400, ie, $1200 each! On top of that
there were three consultations and
two new ear moulds; a total of $2740.
There is a mystique that surrounds hearing aids which, after all,
are quite simple devices compared
with TV sets, computers, printers,
cell phones, CD players and so on,
despite the “clever” things that they
can do.
Production volumes are probably
quite small compared with a lot of
consumer electronics but if each
$1200 hearing aid was made by hand
by someone being paid say $50.00
Switching power supplies in
DVD players have lots of EMI
I recently bought a Sony DVD/CD
player (model DVP-SR700H). This
unit is a marvel of compactness and
economy, typical of the inexpensive
and compact DVD players now on
the market. However, it radiated so
much radio frequency “hash” that it
completely obliterated broadcast-band
reception in a nearby radio.
The hash was even obtrusive in a
radio in an adjacent room. Moreover,
the hash was present even when the
unit was not being used.
Remembering Mauro Grassi’s article
(SILICON CHIP, October 2007), I decided
to build an old-fashioned external
linear power supply. The internal
circuit boards indicated a requirement
for 15V and 5V supplies. I began us-
ing 7815 and 7805 voltage regulators,
along the general lines described in the
article but to my surprise and disappointment, the unit refused to work.
By a process of elimination I traced
an hour, they would take 24 hours to
make one aid. I doubt if this is how
they are manufactured!
I think that people with hearing
loss are “being taken for a ride” This
is accepted by “little old lady” type
people and others who are only too
glad to get the benefit of hearing aids
no matter what the cost. In New Zealand there is a Government subsidy
available but the aids should not be
so expensive in the first place.
Clive Singleton,
Lower Hutt, NZ.
Comment: you have already touched
on some of the reasons why hearing
aids are so much more expensive
than typical consumer electronics
products, most of which are massproduced in Asia rather than being
made in relatively small quantities
in high-labour cost countries. We
suspect that a major part of the high
cost of hearing aids which are supplied and fitted by an audiologist is
due to the fact that they have to be
individually fitted and programmed.
There is now a much cheaper userprogrammable hearing aid available
from Australia Hears (australia
hears.com.au). We hope to do a review article on this in the near future.
the problem to the 5V supply.
Of course, I had no idea of the current required but the 7805 regulator
can supply up to 1A. Surely this would
be sufficient? But measurements with
Digital Storage Oscilloscopes
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June 2011 5
Mailbag: continued
More on in-wheel motors
for electric cars
I have just been reading letters to
the editor in the April 0211 edition
– in particular “Mitsubishi i-MiEV
should have in-wheel motors” and
saw your comment on connecting
wheel motors in series and how
does it let them run at different
speeds around a corner, etc. Your
correspondent is right!
I built a small remote vehicle having two wheel motors (in my case
small permanent magnet DC motors)
connected in series to a single speed
controller. It gives a pretty good
analog to a mechanical differential.
If you want accurate speed control
you can even connect the tacho
outputs in series and feed that into
the tacho input of your speed conan external bench power supply show
ed that the peak current required was
a little over 1.5A, well beyond the
capacity of the 7805 chip. I replaced
it with an LM350K regulator, which is
capable of delivering 5V at up to 3A.
Surely that would fix the problem?
But the unit still refused to work. The
power was being delivered but no joy.
What could be wrong?
Finally, the penny dropped. More
careful measurement showed that the
original 5V switching power supply
delivered 5.3V. As a general rule, the
nominal 5V required by ICs is not very
critical. I had assumed that 5.0V would
suffice, but no.
A simple adjustment to raise the
troller. If you have full tachometric
feedback, the mechanical analog is
almost exact.
It is easy to demonstrate the boundary conditions of differential action.
Hold the wheels off the ground and
they both run at about the set speed.
Stop one wheel and the other one
spins at twice the set speed (just like
a mechanical differential).
In operation around a corner, the
torque and speed of the two motors
adjust to the differential speed requirements, just like a mechanical
differential. It is impressive the first
time you see it in action.
Dr David Hainsworth,
Mining Science & Engineering
Program Leader, CSIRO Earth
Science & Resource Engineering,
Kenmore, Qld.
output of the LM350K regulator to
5.4V solved the problem!
The result – complete elimination of
the hash, at a cost of about $100; about
the same cost as the original player,
plus the inconvenience of a bulky
external power supply. The original
unit is compact and economical but
has cost-cutting been taken too far?
Sony is a reputable brand and I had
considered returning it under warranty but it was probably performing
to specification.
Not all devices with switching
power supplies produce this much
radiation. There seems to be a need
for more rigorous standards for electromagnetic radiation from switching
power supplies. More filtering and
shielding should do the trick and the
additional cost should be minimal. I
can’t see us going back to linear power
supplies.
James Goding,
Princes Hill, Vic.
Comment: that you had to go the trouble of building a bulky external power
supply highlights the fact that switchmode supplies in cheap DVD players
are simply unsatisfactory. More to the
point, it makes nonsense of any EMC
standards or C-tick approvals.
Cars with lights on
high beam are dazzling
I have a concern over motorists who
are using their high-beam lights with
no thought given to other road users.
I do realise this can happen accidentally; maybe car manufacturers could
install another switch which disables
high beam to stop this situation.
Sometimes I could swear that a vehicle approaching or behind me has
the lights on high beam. This can be
very dangerous in certain situations.
Is there any way to meter another vehicle’s headlight to prove to yourself
whether their high beam is on or not?
If different headlight technologies give
out different light levels then maybe
this is a another problem or maybe
trying to meter at night from a distance
makes it unworkable.
My other requirement is for an alarm
for a fridge/freezer door when it is accidentally left ajar or open. This has
happened twice to me just recently in
hot weather while I was at work. So
over the day I lost quite a bit of food
and the poor old fridge was working
very hard to no effect. I realise that un-
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June 2011 7
More on memory size of flash drives
In regards to your comments on memory size
of storage devices (Ask SILICON CHIP, April 2011),
whilst you’re quite correct concerning the blatantly
spin-derived advertising figures that you talk about,
you neglected to mention that the capacity reported
is also a function of the file system used and block
sizes the device is formatted in, as every file system
is optimised differently.
For example, a 500MB USB stick formatted with a
FAT file system will return 515,612,672 bytes (using the
default 8K block size) or about 491MB. When formatted
with a FAT32 file system, it will return 514,854,912
bytes (using the default 4k block size) or about 492MB.
When formatted with an NTFS file system, it will
return 510,619,648 bytes (using the default 512-byte
block size) or about 487MB. This discrepancy is more
exaggerated in much larger devices.
Jason Ditcham,
Panton Hill,Vic.
add to the glare problem. Second, keep mirrors dipped to
minimise the chance of being blinded by a car at the rear.
Third, if you wear glasses you should have them anti-glare
coated – it does help.
As far as your fridge is concerned, we featured a Fridge
Door Alarm in the June 2004 issue.
Having a hot shower is
almost considered a crime
Mailbag: continued
less someone is home to hear the alarm, the device would
be fairly useless. Any suggestions ?
Mark Eastaugh,
Armadale, WA.
Comment: your letter raises a subject which is of interest to
most readers, particularly those who are older. Night-time
glare is exacerbated for older readers who have cataracts
developing; everyone eventually suffers from cataracts.
It is true that some drivers are ignorant (or deliberately
rude) and do drive with lights on high beam when facing
on-coming traffic and when following other cars. Some
cars with HID headlights also seem to have more glare
than they should and they can be painfully bright. They
are probably not correctly aimed. You don’t really need
a light meter to tell when a car has its headlights on high
beam; if they’re dazzling they are probably on high beam.
And if they are on high beam, there is nothing you can
do about it.
It is also true that cars with dirty headlights cause more
glare than with clean headlight lenses, even when they
are on low beam.
There are no electronic solutions but there are several
things you can do to help minimise the problem. The
first is to keep the windscreen, rear window and all mirrors of your own car as clean as possible. Dirt and grime
8 Silicon Chip
In your Publisher’s Letter in the April 2011 issue, you
scoff at the statement, attributed to the “misguided government”, that “every time you have a hot shower powered
by electricity, you’re using the same amount of energy that
it takes to run 150 televisions at once”.
What does that really mean and could it be true? Perhaps it suggests showering uses energy at the same rate as
that which is required to run 150 television receivers. A
“back-of-the-envelope” calculation confirms this, as follows: 150 TV receivers at (say) 200W each require 30kW
of electrical power.
If it is assumed that a shower uses 10 litres/minute (ie,
0.17L/s) of water which has been heated from 10°C to
55°C (a temperature rise of 45°C), and that the specific
heat of water is 4.2kW/kg/K, then the power required is
0.17 x 4.2 x 45 = 32kW, which agrees quite closely with
the consumption of the TV sets.
Thus, although the government’s statement might have
been rather more carefully worded, it is essentially true.
What was not mentioned in your editorial however, and is
at the very heart of the problem of using electrical energy
for heating, is the fundamental practical limit on the efficiency of power stations in converting the energy in the
original fossil fuel, be that coal, oil or gas, to electricity.
This limitation is described numerically by the second
law of thermodynamics and limits the maximum possible
efficiency from such stations to about 30%. Thus the generation of electricity from combustion processes always
results in about two thirds of the original calorific value
of the fuel being wasted. That’s why using electricity for
siliconchip.com.au
bulk domestic water heating is almost
a crime!
Andrew Baghurst,
Port Elliot, SA.
Comment: the statement is still ridiculous and it is intended to make
people feel guilty or as you say, “almost a crime”. For a start, no-one has
a shower with a water temperature of
55°. It would be too hot. Even if we accept that, say, 18kW is being consumed
while you run the shower, then this
is an argument for having a shorter
shower, not for replacing a perfectly
functioning hot-water system.
While you are correct in your assessment of using coal-fired electricity to
heat water, it should also be remembered that most hot-water is heating
is done at night when the generators
are essentially on spinning reserve –
they have to be run continuously in
any case, whether water was being
heated or not.
3-stage MPPT solar charge
controller has minimal benefit
I would like to comment on this
siliconchip.com.au
project, having just used it on a short
camping holiday. While it is a nice
3-stage regulator, the MPPT feature
is, as far as I am concerned, a waste of
effort. Using an 80W panel and alternating it with a conventional regulator
that has FET switching, the old style
regulator almost always performed the
same or slightly better.
The MPPT circuit seems to use
around 5W and when the battery voltage is above 13V, the MPPT regulator
is no better than a straight connection.
When I test the unit on a power supply
feeding it with 17V, the output current is always higher than the input,
suggesting that it is working properly.
I might add that I have also owned
a locally-made unit (the GSL 12A) and
the results were much the same, the
main advantage with the GSL being
that you can use a 24V panel on a 12V
battery without any adjustment.
Horst Leykam,
Dee Why, NSW.
Comment: for an 80W panel, the
maximum power point (MPPT) should
be around 4.44A at 18V. For a direct
connection from the panel to a 12V
battery, the current would be around
4.6A at 12V and 4.55A at 14.8V, ie,
55.2W and 67.34W respectively. It is
true that for smaller wattage solar panels the benefits of MPPT charging are
diminished. That’s because the losses
in the MPPT charger begin to match
the extra power delivered compared
to a direct connection to the battery.
For the 80W panel, the result when
the battery is at 14.8V would be around
75W with MPPT charging, assuming a
5W loss in the MPPT charger circuitry,
compared to a 67W charge for the
direct connection.
At a battery voltage of 12V, the MPPT
charger would be charging at 75W
and the direct connection 55W. So the
advantage is better when the battery
is discharged.
USB port for PC high-current
bench supply conversion
I found the article on converting an
old computer power supply to a bench
supply (SILICON CHIP, January 2011) to
be very interesting and I’m just look-
June 2011 9
Mailbag: continued
ADSL Line Performance
Helping to put you in Control
Control Equipment
Logbox-DA Datalogger with two input
channels, one analog
and one digital pulse.
Able to store 64,000
readings and IP67 rating for water and dust protection. Great for
monitoring water usage and flows.
LOG-0031 $259.00+GST
RFID Starter Kit Every-
thing you need to get
started with RFID. It includes a USB RFID
board, ID-12 RFID reader,
and 2 RFID cards. USB
Serial output to a PC
SFR-104 $49+GST
Cyclic Timer Simple to use
cyclic timer with programmable
ON-OFF times. 1 shot or continuous. 6 timer ranges 0.6s100hr. HER-103 $59.95+GST
GSM Alarm Unit
The RTU5000 is a universal GSM alarm dialer
and controller. It has 2
open collector outputs,
4 digital inputs (1 can
be used as a 23 bit counter), 1 analog input
and an RS-232 serial port. It allows you to
monitor and control remote equipment.
KPR-003 $249+GST
AM822 Bipolar Stepper
Motor Drive New fully
digital drive for large stepper motors up to 5.9A and
80VDC. Microstepping
and auto tuning for optimum torque.
SMC-011 $179+GST
Arduino and Ethernet
Freetronics have released
their new 100% compatible Arduino board with on
board Ethernet and a mico
SD card for web content storage or datalogging.
FRA-005 $63.59+GST
Ethernet Surge Protection with high response surge arresters
TOD-022 $45.00+GST
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: 03 9782 5882
www.oceancontrols.com.au
10 Silicon Chip
Wiring
Normal
Cable
Line measurements
Average
Actual line rate (kbps)
4357
4528
4450
4415
4437
Attainable line rate (kbps)
4780
4972
4852
4840
4861
Noise margin (db)
6.4
6.6
6.5
6.5
Attenuation (db)
54
54
54
54
4850
4675
4780
4855
4790
5292
5124
5220
5300
5234
6.3
6.1
6.4
6.3
6.3
54
54
54
54
54
Actual line rate (kbps)
Crossover Attainable line rate (kbps)
Cable
Noise margin (db)
Attenuation (db)
Phone polarity and
ADSL performance
Your Phone Line Polarity Checker
article made me wonder at first if I
was reading the April edition of SILICON CHIP. Some of the points raised
by David Drane appeared valid but
I wasn’t too sure.
Rather than building the checker
I decided to experiment by connecting my Dynalink DSL modem to its
central splitter/filter (and PSTN line)
using a straight-through cable and
then using a crossover cable. For
each cable configuration the actual
line rate, attainable line rate, noise
ing into doing one for myself, along
similar lines to that described in the
article. While considering just how to
do mine, I came to realise that there
is an important feature missing from
the one described in the magazine and
that is a 5V USB port, so I’m going to
add one to my unit.
The way I am going to do this is to
use an old USB add-on port that would
have been connected to the motherboard and would have been fitted in
one of the rear case slots. The port is
attached to the backing plate with two
screws. The port will be fitted in the
power supply case and the two data
wires will be cut off and the two power
wires will simply be connected to the
5V power supply wiring, thus providing a 5V USB power port.
I thought this idea could be suggested as an after-thought for the
original project.
Bruce Pierson,
via email.
margin and attenuation as reported
by the modem was recorded after
rebooting the modem. This was
repeated four times.
The results confirmed David’s
article and showed approximately a
7% improvement of actual line rate;
Not a big difference in the scheme
of things but interesting that the line
polarity does make a difference. My
DSL service is at the end of a 3.5km
line and I wonder what the results
would be like closer to or further
from the exchange?
Stephen Wright,
Wahroonga, NSW.
Neck coupler could
use telephone cable
I have a couple of suggestions
regarding the physical design of the
Microphone to Neck Loop Coupler
for Hearing Aids from the March 2011
issue. Construction of the loop is a bit
awkward because the constructor has
to make and insulate all those connections as shown in Fig 3. Also, since the
loop is unbroken, the user will have
to slip it over their head, which could
mess up one’s hairdo.
These problems can be eliminated
by making the loop using 4-conductor telephone cable complete with a
modular connector at each end. Put
two modular sockets on the PCB. All
the loop connections can then be made
on the PCB. The user can then put the
unit on or take it off by inserting or
removing one of the modular connectors from its socket. The loop would
then only need to be big enough to go
around the neck rather than having to
siliconchip.com.au
be wide enough to go over the head
and hair.
In fact, only a single modular socket
and plug are really needed and the
other end of the loop cable can be soldered directly to the PCB. This would
have the advantage that constructors
could simply snip the desired length
off one end of a pre-made telephone
cable, without having to use a special
tool to crimp a modular connector at
the cut end.
Further, if the loop could be made
to work with just three conductors,
the fourth conductor could be wired
in series with the battery so that the
unit is automatically turned off when
one end of the loop is disconnected.
Power switch S1 could be retained in
case the user needs to turn the unit off
without physically removing it.
Andrew Partridge,
Toowoomba East, Qld.
Comment: this seems like a good idea.
However, the smaller the loop the less
effective is the coupling to the T-coil
in the hearing aid. Also, if wired with
three conductors and using the fourth
conductor as the battery connection,
the effectively shorted power loop may
affect the signal loop performance.
Feedback on phone
polarity checker
I read with interest the article on the
Phone Line Polarity Checker (SILICON
CHIP, May 2011 and decided to check
out my new home.
I made up a checker from loose parts
and then found great difficulty in finding out which is pin 1 of the three RJ12
female sockets in my house. Nevertheless after much internet searching, I
made the assumption that by looking
at the socket with the locking/locating
tab down facing, the connectors at the
top would number left to right, ie, pin
1 to pin 6.
Therefore, as you say, pin 4 should
be positive with respect to pin 3 but
it isn’t in my house. I then went to
my modem (2-Wire 2017-A) set-up
and noted that the settings there were:
Downstream Rate = 11,423 kbps, Upstream Rate = 810kbps, Current Noise
Margin = 12dB (Downstream) 12dB
(Upstream), Current Attenuation =
39dB (DS) 21dB (US) and Current
Output Power = 19dbm (DS) and 12
dbm (US).
siliconchip.com.au
So assuming the worst, I swapped
the cable with a crossed cable to see
what the change in polarity would do.
But this had little effect as the settings
were much the same. Hence it seems
my modem doesn’t care about line
polarity.
In this exercise I managed to drag
out of my box of tricks about half a
dozen old Series 600 to RJ adapters,
and found that they were not all the
same pin-for-pin configuration, with
some reversing the wiring. This shows
that it is no wonder that some people
are having issues with polarity.
Brian Collath,
Moss Vale, NSW.
CIRCUIT
BOARDS?
For all your prototype
requirements ...
from
budget …
More on phone polarity
and ADSL performance
Wow – thanks for the Phone Line
Polarity Checker! I have long suspected that my broadband connection
was slower than it should be and had
thought it was because we were near
the distance limit from the exchange.
With the Checker I was able to discover
that the cable into my modem produced a red light and when replaced
with another cable that produced a
green light my internet speed was
significantly faster.
With faster broadband and the
DAB+/FM Tuner playing magnificently in the corner, what more could
a chap want? More great projects of
course! Love the magazine – hope it
never stops.
As a postscript to my original email,
further investigation has shown that
the original phone cable to the modem
was wired correctly and that the polarity reversal occurred in the phone line
transient protector in the power board
I am using. It just so happened that
when I replaced the original cable the
replacement phone cable was apparently not wired correctly resulting in
a reversal of the polarity back to what
it should have been! Anyway – I now
have a green light at the important part
of the cable train.
David Hebblethwaite,
Maleny, Qld.
Phone polarity has
no effect on ADSL
I was mystified to read the article on
the Phone Line Polarity Checker for
ADSL in the May 2011 issue of SILICON
Model 3000
… to fullyfeatured
QCJ5
Quick Circuit allows you to
make your own prototype
circuit boards and
perfectly machined panels.
Shouldn’t there be
one on your bench?
Tel +61 2 9807 7081
satcam<at>satcam.com.au
www.satcam.com.au
June 2011 11
Mailbag: continued
Mitsubishi i-MiEV
and in-wheel motors
Thanks for publishing my letter in
the Mailbag pages of the April 2011
issue. Leo Simpson’s comments
were as usual thought-provoking.
However, they have led to me doing some more research on-line and
coming up with some suggestions
about solving the problems with my
favourite “in wheel” motors.
Firstly, almost all modern cars
already have a lot of electronics on
board so perhaps it would not be a
great problem to modify the systems
of accelerometers, etc to sense cornering and feed power to the motors appropriately. The ABS system
basically does the opposite with the
brakes already! All we have to do is
to use the accelerometer information
to control the PWM controller for
each motor with some input from
the steering system.
My reading tells me that an elec-
DYNE
INDUSTRIES PTY LTD
Now manufacturing the
original ILP Unirange
Toroidal Transformer
- In stock from 15VA to 1000VA
- Virtually anything made to order!
- Transformers and Chokes
with Ferrite, Powdered Iron
GOSS and Metglas cores
- Current & Potential Transformers
DYNE Industries Pty Ltd
Ph: (03) 9720 7233 Fax: (03) 9720 7551
email: sales<at>dyne.com.au
web: www.dyne.com.au
12 Silicon Chip
tric car designed by Michelin in
France back in 2009, with in-wheel
motors, claimed an unsprung weight
of 35kg on the front wheels and 24kg
on the rear. According to the same
source, the “Clio” petrol car has an
unsprung weight of 38kg. Unless
my source is wrong, where is the
problem?
I must confess though that my estimate of power loss in the differential
was far too high. In practice, a loss of
5% looks about right but the weight
loss remains the same!
So we may not be saving so much
energy but we are saving many kilograms of vehicle weight which can
be used for increased battery storage.
Many of your correspondents in
the same issue are obviously Jeremy
Clarkson fans, (don’t tell my wife –
she can’t stand him) but very sorry
folks, soon your V8s and V12s are
not going to have any more fuel or
you’ll be fighting continuous wars
over what’s left. As Bob Heinlein
said “Natural laws have no pity”.
Is anyone prepared to give some
thought to a suitable motor control
system?
Clifford Wright,
Helensville. NZ.
CHIP. I was unaware that line polarity
had any effect on DSL operation or
data speed transmission.
It is a requirement that all customer
equipment connected to the Australian PSTN must function as intended
regardless of line polarity – see www.
commsalliance.com.au/__data/assets/
pdf_file/0012/2505/S041_2005r.pdf
and www.telstra.com.au/adsl/docs/
adslcpe.pdf (para 5.6.3).
The telephone line is a balanced
signalling line with the positive leg
of the line single point earthed at the
exchange end only. If a DSL modem/
router experiences data rate degradation when the line is reversed then the
modem itself is the problem, not the
phone line. The fact that there is 48V
DC on the line should not affect the
performance of the DSL equipment
no matter in which direction any DC
current is flowing in the DSL interface
arrangement.
I agree that there is a possibility that
practice and theory will not always
agree. However, apart from a few references in forums on the web (having
relevance to the Australian PSTN), the
issue of line polarity and ADSL performance hardly rates a mention. I would
have thought that if line polarity were
a problem, as claimed in the SILICON
CHIP article, there would be numerous mentions, reports and warnings. I
can’t even find any confirmed reports
of problems when searching the web
for any part of the world; quite the
opposite in fact.
In this forum http://forum.kitz.
co.uk/index.php?topic=999.0;wap2
Setecio tried reversing the line and
found no difference in data transmission speed.
I have a friend who until recently
worked on providing ADSL services
for Visionstream and he is adamant
that polarity is not an issue. He even
says that ADSL will get through even
if one leg of the line is open-circuit.
Fig.4 in this article http://www.
eetasia.com/ARTICLES/2000FEB/
2000FEB01_NTEK_TA.PDF shows a
typical ADSL full duplex transceiver
(and that is 10 years old) and it can be
seen that as far as the telephone line
polarity is concerned (T & R connections) it will make absolutely no difference which way around the line is
connected. DMT signals used by ADSL
are not affected by line polarity since
there is no DC current in the hybrid
interface transformer/s.
Without wishing to be flippant, I
challenge you to find any confirmed
reports where polarity alone has been
the cause of poor ADSL transmission speed. I guess your time is too
important to waste and it is of little
importance in the grand scheme of
things anyway. Who cares if SILICON
CHIP readers actually believe that line
polarity is a problem? At least they
may go out and buy a kit to build the
checker.
Ross Herbert,
Carine, Qld
Comment: we can vouch for the fact
that ADSL can get through when one
line is open-circuit; two SILICON CHIP
staff have recently had ADSL working
while their phones were out of order.
But it also appears that phone line
polarity can affect performance. SC
siliconchip.com.au
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siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 13
At last!
An
Energy
Saving
Device
that
ACTUALLY
DOES
save
energy!
by ROSS TESTER
During the past few years, SILICON CHIP has exposed some
decidedly “shonky” power-saving devices. So it gives
us great pleasure in “exposing” another power-saving
device . . . one that actually lives up to its claims.
The FutureWave Energy Saver WILL save energy and
siliconchip.com.au
14 Silicon Chip
therefore money. And we have the test figures to prove
it.
W
e first saw this device on one of the tabloid TV
shows late last year. Typical of these shows, the
report was full of “gee whiz” and short on substance. We wondered if the claims being made were real
. . . or was it just another in the long line of power saving
devices which don’t quite stand up to a technically-sound
examination.
Developed by a couple of electric motor rewinders in
a shed on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, the FutureWave
Energy Saver was claimed to reduce electricity consumption by a rather significant amount. They claim up to 80%
– a figure we can’t quite replicate – but the savings we can
measure are not too far away.
But we are getting a bit ahead of ourselves. Shortly after
we saw it on TV, we tried to contact FutureWave via their
website and emails – without a lot of luck. It turns out at
the time they were simply too busy trying to keep up with
demand following their TV exposure to have even more
media exposure – which could further increase demand.
But we persevered, eventually tracking down a mobile
phone number which was not only answered but we were
promised that someone would get back to us within a
week or two. It was explained to us that FutureWave had
moved to new premises and significantly ramped up their
production capacity, so now they were happy to talk to the
technical media which would put their device under much
more scrutiny than the TV programs had.
They were well aware of SILICON CHIP (in fact they subscribed) – so were also well aware of the damning reports
we had published on previous “energy saving” devices.
More to the point, they completely agreed with us!
But they were also very quick to point out that the FutureWave device went about its energy saving task in a
completely different, scientifically proven way (more on
that anon) and it was also specifically intended for certain
electric motors, the main target market being swimming
pool and spa pumps.
They were confident that FutureWave Energy Saver
would stand up to SILICON CHIP’s scrutiny and measurements.
In due course, a FutureWave Energy Saver was delivered
to the SILICON CHIP office. Yours truly was given the task of
reviewing the device, mainly because I happen to be the
only one with a swimming pool in the back yard!
The FutureWave Energy Saver
It’s housed in an ABS box measuring 390 x 300 x 150mm.
The lid of the box is clear and hinged, opening to allow
access to a limited range of user controls. There are two
large 3-position switches, one of which selects the mode
of operation – full power (used, for example, when backwashing a filter), energy saving (ie, controlled by the unit)
and off. The second switch selects the amount of energy
saving – high, medium or low.
There’s also a small knob which appears to vary the
amount of time the FutureWave remains in its various
modes, along with a couple of small pushbuttons which,
while labelled “run“ and “start/stop“, have uses which were
not immediately obvious. Perhaps these are explained in
the operation manual which, unfortunately, our test unit
did not come with.
Above these controls is a LED display which gives a
readout of the pump supply frequency, which varies acsiliconchip.com.au
User controls on the FutureWave Energy Saver are
minimal: two large switches controlling mode and energy
saving level. Without instructions, we were unable to work
out the controls at the top but the LED display reads the
frequency supplied to the pump motor.
cording to the energy saving setting.
There’s a 230V AC mains input cable and, on the underside, a 230V AC mains socket, into which your pool pump
plugs. And that’s just about it as far as the user is concerned.
How it works
The FutureWave Energy Saver is based on the assumption
that the vast majority of pool pumps are more powerful
than they need be for proper filtering of the water.
There is a very good reason for this – no pool pump is
used continuously (apart from wearing the bearings out,
the cost of electricity would be prohibitive). But the pump
almost invariably needs more “grunt” whenever it is started
to overcome the initial resistance of the filter and getting
the water flowing through it. The amount of power needed
depends to a large degree on the type of filter.
But once operating, the pump doesn’t need to keep pushing that amount of water through the filter – in fact, there
is some argument to suggest filtration is better with the
water flow just enough to pass through the filter medium.
FutureWave themselves have published several field tests,
both in large public and smaller private pools, which show
no deleterious effects in pool water quality by using their
device with lower flow rates.
So what we normally have is a powerful pump pushing
too much water through a filter; a pump that uses a quite
June 2011 15
The FutureWave Energy Saver is perfectly
suited to do-it-yourself installation. There is
no plumbing or wiring to install: all you do is
unplug your pool pump from its mains socket,
plug it into the FutureWave and then plug the
FutureWave back into the mains socket. If (as
would be the norm) your pool pump operates
via a time switch, the FutureWave plugs into
it. Installation complete!
significant amount of power at start-up, then continues to
gobble power as it runs at too fast a speed.
noise and (if it is important to you), your carbon footprint.
That’s what the FutureWave Energy Saver promises.
How much power?
But does it deliver – and if so, how?
A typical pool pump for a 50-70,000 litre pool (ie, a
reasonable-size backyard pool) would be rated at about
1kW (~1.3hp). If the pump is run for a typical five hours
per day during the swim season (depending on location,
say 7-8 months, more with heating) that could be as much
as 1000 x 5 = 5kWh x 265(days) = ~1250kWh.
Add to that the pump/filter use during the off-season
(most pool owners would drop it to about 1-2 hours per
day) and you could add another 180kWh, or about 1430kWh
for the year.
At the current (at time of writing - see www.energyaustralia.
According to FutureWave Energy Solutions, the Australian developers of the FutureWave Energy Saver (they’re
based on the Sunshine Coast of Qld), this is how:
“The Future Wave Energy Saver will soft start the pump
motor, removing the huge initial start up demand of electricity. This start up process will take about 20 seconds to
initiate. The pump will then operate at close to its normal
rate for another 20 seconds while it primes the pump. When
the pump is fully primed there is no need for it to draw so
much energy to work effectively so the Future Wave Energy
Saver will then wind the motor down to the energy saving
level selected, saving significant amounts of electricity.”
That’s an interesting comment: “wind the motor down”.
The way it does this is the basis of the system.
The FutureWave Energy Saver is, quite simply, a variablefrequency motor drive. In fact, the device is based on a
purpose-designed VFD (a SV02iC5-1 module, made by LS
Industrial Solutions of Korea).
This module will handle up to 2.2kW (3hp) motors so
the FutureWave is capable of handling the largest domestic
pool and is, in fact, now being used at quite a few large
community pools. Incidentally, according to specs we found
on the ’net, this particular LS VFD module can also be used
com.au/State/NSW/Residential/Products-and-services/Electricity/~/
media/Files/Residential/Pricing/2010/NSW_RES_PL.ashx) electric-
ity rate of about 28c/kwh, your pool pump alone is currently
costing you about $400 per annum. (Remember the high
usage of a pool pump is likely to push you into the highest “balance per quarter” rate which cuts in at 1750kWh/
quarter). Even at the sub-1750kWh rate (~19c/kWh) you’re
still up for the best part of $300 per annum.
And that’s before the looming electricity price hikes
(~18%?) – and, if it ever happens, a carbon dioxide tax.
Wouldn’t it be nice to cut that down by half, or even three
quarters? And at the same time, save in pump wear and tear,
The FutureWave Energy Saver is based on a Variable Frequency Driver (VFD) which has an H-Bridge output to drive the
induction motor at reduced speeds. In effect, the VFD switches the H-Bridge output devices (Mosfets or IGBTs) with a high
frequency variable pulse width signal to synthesise a low frequency sinewave (more or less) at 50Hz (full power), 38.5Hz
(low saving), 35.5Hz (med saving) or 31.5Hz (high saving). These scope waveforms show the actual signal delivered to the
motor and as you can see, there is a considerable high frequency component still present. This does not affect the motor’s
behaviour but it can cause AM radio interference (depending on the signal strength in your area).
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Inside the FutureWave
Energy Saver, with
the front panel
“folded back” 90°.
The large module
at the top is the
Variable Frequency
Drive (VFD) module
which is the heart of
the system. The large
silver EMI suppressor
(behind the switches)
and the two toroid
rings through which
the power lines pass
(all highlighted with
arrows) should be
capable of minimising
radio frequency
interference. They
don’t work real well
in low signal areas!
to convert single-phase
AC to three-phase (but
of course, this feature
is not used in the FutureWave application).
As you no doubt
know, the speed of an
AC induction motor is
“locked” to the mains
frequency – in our
case, 50Hz.
Ergo, if you vary
the frequency, you
vary the speed of the
motor. As long as you
continue to supply sufficient voltage to keep
the motor spinning, it
will happily run at the
lower speed.
In a nutshell, this is what the FutureWave Energy Saver
does – it varies the supply frequency. The clever bit, at least
as far as we are concerned, is in the programming – what
length of time do the various modes keep running and of
course, at what frequencies.
Table 1 below shows the theoretical rotational shaft speed
of a (typical) 2-pole induction motor at various frequencies.
Note that this is theoretical – for a number of reasons, to
do with slip and load, the actual speed of the motor will
be less than this. Typical 50Hz 2-pole pool pump motors,
for example, will have a nameplate rating of about 28002850rpm, or about 5% less than the synchronous speed.
So where does the power saving come in?
It’s quite simple, really: run a motor at its normal (rated)
speed and it uses maximum power. Maximum power equals
maximum energy cost. Slow the motor down and, as long
as it can continue to do the work required, the power (and
therefore energy cost) decreases.
There does comes a point, however, where the motor
will start getting rather cranky at running too slow. Heat
siliconchip.com.au
dissipation from the windings can become a major problem
(most induction motors have fans built in to assist in cooling), as does actually being able to supply enough “grunt”
to run the pump or whatever device the motor is turning.
Soft-starting the motor
Another thing that the FutureWave does is “soft start”
the motor. A rule-of-thumb is that starting current of an
induction motor is around 500% of run current. This only
lasts for a short time (perhaps half a second or so) until the
motor is up to speed but in this time there is obviously a lot
more power being used. By preventing this huge current at
Frequency (Hz)
50
40
30
20
10
Shaft rotational speed (rpm)
3000
2400
1800
1200
600
Table 1: Synchronous motor speed versus frequency
June 2011 17
These two scope waveforms are taken at a much higher sweep speed (200us/div) than those overleaf to illustrate the
variable pulse width of the synthesised motor waveform. The waveform with the high pulse duty cycle is delivered on
positive excursions of the waveform while the low pulse duty cycle is equivalent to the negative duty cycle.
start-up, you’re going to save money. Incremental savings,
perhaps – but they all add up!
Wear and tear
Running a pool pump for several hours means it will
get rather hot. You only have to see the large fins on most
pumps to see that efforts are made to get rid of this heat.
It’s the pump bearings which normally wear out first and
if left unattended, or unnoticed, may cause the motor to
seize, overheat and ultimately burn out.
Running the motor slower will result in cooler bearings,
which in turn will result in longer bearing (and therefore
motor) life.
Our testing
We did two different sets of tests – one in our laboratory,
where we were able to capture the scope waveforms shown
here, while the second was done “in the field” using a real
pool pump on a real pool.
The lab tests showed the unit worked and did exactly what
it was supposed to.
But there was a real sting in the tail – it was very difficult
indeed to sync the scope on the waveform due to the large
amount of noise on the waveform. The screen grabs show
what we are talking about.
Our lab tests also showed that the voltage delivered to the
pump was also reduced, along with the frequency. While
nothing like a sine wave, we were able to get the scope to give
us “RMS” voltage readings for the three different settings.
These are reproduced below with the consumption readings.
Our “real world” test setup was quite simple: we used a
1.3hp pump already installed on a 50,000 litre pool. In line
with the 230V power outlet (ie, before the pump) we placed
a SILICON CHIP Energy Meter (see July 2004 issue) which gives
an instantaneous reading in watts plus a cumulative reading
in watt-hours (or kilowatt hours).
We then ran the pump “as is” for two hours, then five hours.
The two different periods were to not only ensure statistical
accuracy; the higher run time is typical for a domestic pool
in summer and the lower typical for winter use.
These two readings were entirely consistent with what
we would expect:
18 Silicon Chip
Full power:
2 hours - 1.964kWh 5 hours - 4.953kWh
(Power reading after “settling down” 1.01kW)
Then we placed the FutureWave Energy Saver in line and
repeated the tests, with the energy saving level set to all three
positions in turn (via the switch on the front panel of the
unit). Remember, the “high” position is actually the highest
energy saving, or in fact the lowest power setting.
As we mentioned earlier, we weren’t able to duplicate the
80% power savings claimed by FutureWave Technologies. But
we were able to demonstrate quite significant savings, more
than enough to justify the claim of an “energy saving device”:
High:
2 hours - 675Wh
5 hours - 1.7kWh
(Power reading after “settling down” 353W)
Frequency:
31.5Hz
Pump voltage:
122V (RMS)
That’s a 66% reduction in power and is almost the same
percentage reduction for both 2 hours and 5 hours, again as
we would expect. As we said, not 80% but certainly getting
up there and certainly worthwhile.
We repeated the tests with the FutureWave set to medium
and low energy saving levels and the results were, of course,
not as good but good nevertheless:
Medium:
2 hours - 975Wh, 5 hours - 2.42kWh
(Power reading after “settling down” 486W)
Frequency
35.5Hz
Pump voltage:
140V (RMS)
Low:
2 hours - 1.15kWh,
5 hours - 2.74kWh
(Power reading after “settling down” 575W)
Frequency:
38.5Hz
Pump voltage:
161V (RMS)
One point to note: running the pump through the FutureWave set to “Full Power” consumed 55W more than running
the pump direct from the mains, so this is the FutureWave’s
“overhead” and also should be taken into account when
calculating power savings. Of course, running the system
through a mains time switch would mean no overhead for
siliconchip.com.au
FutureWave comments . . .
SILICON CHIP provided a copy of the review to FutureWave prior to publication, for any comment. Rather than amend
the original article, we decided to publish their response verbatim for readers to consider. Here’s what they had to say:
Hi Ross,
Thank you very much for forwarding the article. We were very glad to see that the Future Wave Energy Saver performed as expected when running on a smaller 1HP (0.75kW) pump such as your pool pump Ross.
From our perspective we would like the opportunity to provide some feedback regarding some of the comments and findings in the article.
1. Firstly to clarify the structure of the companies – The inventors/developers & manufacturing side of things is through ‘Future Wave Innovations Pty Ltd’. Our company ‘Future Wave Energy Solutions Australia Pty Ltd’ work direct with the manufacturers as the client facing sales side.
Currently there are only a few smaller Re-Sellers out there but within the next few months there will be a proper robust Distribution Network put in
place with a view to rolling out a nationwide accredited Reseller Network. So, just clarifying, we (Future Wave Energy Solutions Australia Pty Ltd)
should not be referred to as the ‘Developers’.
2. I wasn’t made aware that the Future Wave had turned up without an instruction manual and had we been made aware of this we would definitely have provided one immediately. I have attached a soft copy of the information and instructions that are included with every Future Wave. The
Future Wave that was redirected to Silicon Chip was one that was already sent to a customer in Sydney to trial and instead of sending it back to us
in Queensland we thought it easier to have it sent on. Obviously they did not send it with the provided instructions etc. The buttons and dial that is
referred to in the article are only used for the initial programming of the Future Wave after which they are programmed out so that no tampering
can occur. In some ‘Custom’ cases the ‘Medium’ setting on the energy saving dial may be programmed to be variable and then the dial on the VSD
would be used to adjust the frequency of the unit with Maximum and Minimum parameters set so the user can’t inadvertantly do any damage.
3. The article makes comment on the claims of ‘up to 80% savings’ but the Silicon Chips test results showed results in the high 60’s. This should
be clarified that when we refer to ‘up to 80%’ it obviously means only in some cases. Results will vary for every pump depending on the size of the
pump, load, make, model, age of the pump etc. The higher saving results are normally seen on larger pumps (1.5kW-2.2kW) and typically when
running smaller pumps like the one tested (0.75kW – 1.0kW), we typically see closer to the 70% savings on average when running on the ‘High’
energy saving level. So we would say that your trial performed as we would have expected.
4. When referring to ‘typical pool pump size’ I think it is dangerous to say that for a 50,000 litre pool that a 1kW pump would be the norm. Pool
pump sizes vary considerably depending on many factors, volume of water, filter design, complexity of the hydraulics, required turnover rates,
climate, type of cleaner and so on. If I was having a guess for our climate in S-E Queensland and what would be typical, I would be estimating
closer to a 1.5kW (2HP) pump would be the norm and a lot closer to what we generally see when selling or installing the Future Wave. Smaller
pools under 50,000 thousand litres would typically utilise smaller pumps as you mentioned.
Also the reference to ‘typical five hours per day for the swim season’ as the general amount of time that an average pool pump would run also
should be questioned. For a 50-70,000 litre pool through a warm to hot summer and the pool being frequently used, five hours would be dangerously close to the bare minimum that it should be running. Once again depending on many variables, pool size, pump size, climate, exposure,
usage, type of filter, type of chlorinator, plumbing design etc. etc. this will vary considerably. I think you will find that generally any pool designer
or pool maintenance professional will recommend running your pool for up to eight hours for water quality and hygiene purposes, especially on
a 50-70,000 litre pool.
The further reference of ‘1-2 hours run time in the off-season’ would be a very small minority of pool owners. There are over 500,000 pool
owners in Queensland alone and the vast majority of these pool owners would be running their pool pumps for 3-5 hours at minimum throughout
our small off-season, with a lot of pools now having solar water heating you will more than likely find that pools are being used year round and the
pumps would be still running closer to 6-8 hours.
5. Point 4 above will obviously have an impact on ‘typical savings’. You refer to a payback term of two years through savings. Once again this
will not be the case for everyone but in some cases we frequently see payback periods under two years. This will obviously be when pool owners
have larger pumps than the one you tested and they run for more hours a day. I think we should make it clear that with your test scenario used
of two hours run time in winter and five hours in Summer on a smaller pump of 1kW we would not expect to see a two year ROI. On larger pools
running larger pumps and running for eight hours or more a day then you will obviously see much better savings and payback periods. A fairly
typical pool pump in Queensland of 1.5kW running eight hours a day on peak tariff of $0.2135per/kWh would be $233.00 per Quarter or $932.00
a year. At 70% savings this would mean a $653.00 saving per annum. At the price of $1295.00 this equates to pretty close to a two year payback
period even if electricity prices were not to increase, but we all know this is not going to be the case and we will expect to see some pretty hefty
increases meaning higher savings and a better payback period again.
6. Your findings of AM interference is a known issue and that is accepted but with thousands of units being currently used we are only aware
of maybe a couple of individual instances that this has been an issue. The Future Wave Energy Saver passes all relevant Australian EMC standards
and compliances. Further testing and development is being carried out with a view to address this concern. In individual cases where this is an
issue we are happy to work with the customer to have it resolved. The quoted comment of ‘no-one listens to AM anymore’ is obviously used out of
context and should be removed as I was the person who light-heartedly made that comment and I was quick to acknowledge that it was a known
concern and that the designers were working on a fix and that I would take the findings directly to the designers to make comment on. We have
been more than accommodating with giving Silicon Chip ‘free reign’ with their access to the Future Wave Energy Saver and ability to test it along
with being available for comment and feedback and we think that this comment and the context of the paragraph makes us sound arrogant and
dismissive of the issue which we clearly are not.
Overall we are obviously very happy that the unit tested well and the results are mostly positive but we would greatly appreciate the above comments be given consideration.
Kind regards,
Charlie Notting
Future Wave Energy Solutions Australia Pty Ltd
siliconchip.com.au
JJune
une 2011 19
most of the time (ie, whenever it is off, it is OFF!).
Power cost
Let’s translate that energy usage into the language everyone
understands – dollars – using the same rates we used earlier.
Again, we are using the “high” setting. 1.7kWh per day
times 265 days (summer) times $0.28; plus 675Wh times 100
days (winter) times $0.28, brings your annual pool power
bill down to just $145.00. The lower energy usage may well
keep you under the 1750kWh “premium rate” so you could
even be paying around $98 per annum. What were those
“full rate” figures we quoted earlier? Hmm: $400 and $300!
Noise
Here there is good news and bad news. The good news is
very good and the bad news is, at least in my case, awful!
First of all, let me say that my pump is about five years
old so by this time, you might expect quite a bit of bearing
noise. Such is definitely the case: with the pump running
on full power, we measured it at 79dBA <at> 1m and 65dBA <at>
5m, against a Sunday morning background level of 47dBA.
That’s loud enough to be quite noticeable during the day
but it’s unacceptably loud during the still of the night. In fact,
many councils have ordinances which prevent pool pumps
being run after 9 or 10pm or before 6am – a time when many
people on “smart meters” would prefer to run them to take
advantage of significantly lower tariffs.
The good news
With the FutureWave Energy Saver in line and operating at
its best saving rate, the noise level dropped to a much more
satisfactory 72dBA <at> 1m and 57dBA <at> 5m. That’s probably still too loud for night-time operation although, with
a newer pump, it would obviously be significantly lower
again. A modicum of sound-proofing around the pump may
be all that is required. On the mid and low settings, noise
was (respectively) 74dB/76dB <at> 1m and 58dB/60dB <at> 5m.
The bad news
If you like to listen to AM radio and you don’t live in a
relatively strong signal area, forget about using the FutureWave Energy Saver (at least as it is currently configured).
Let me explain that: while I’m only about 20km from the
centre of Sydney, radio and TV signal levels at my place are
renowned to be low, mainly due to topography.
I would equate the level of signal as akin to that of a country town, where the “local” radio transmitter can be many
kilometres away; perhaps even several towns away (and may
be fairly low power into the bargain).
My pool pump is virtually on the back boundary of my
property (a standard 15 x 45m suburban block). My house
is set well forward on the block.
No AM radio reception was possible anywhere in the
house or yard when the FutureWave was turned on – in fact,
my partner has never moved so fast, to turn any radios off
when that “damnawful noise” started! I’m not simply talking
about mains-powered radios where the interference could
have been introduced via the mains wiring. I’m also talking
about interference on a battery powered portable, not just on
my property but right across the road – a distance of about
65 metres from the offending noise source!
I wasn’t game to ask my next-door neighbours if they had
the same problems as I (they’d know who to blame!) but
20 Silicon Chip
clearly if I was having reception problems at 65m, the odds
were pretty good (or is that pretty bad?)!
The FutureWave does have EMI suppression built in, as our
photo clearly shows. However, it just as clearly is inadequate
if your AM radio reception is not strong.
I mentioned this problem to FutureWave after my tests and
they were aware of the problem but were, if not dismissive of
it, didn’t think it too big a problem. Their comment: “no-one
listens to AM radio any more . . .” I’ve got to tell them that
this little black duck does, as do many friends and colleagues.
They did say that the designers were aware of the interference problem and were working on a “fix”. I hope for their
sake the fix is quick – otherwise I suspect that many users,
especially in country areas will say “bugger the savings – I
want my radio reception back.”
How much?
It’s not easy to get a price for the FutureWave Energy
Saver. Everyone wants you to contact them and they will get
a “representative to contact you” who will then tell you the
price. Perhaps the reason for this is that it is sold through a
variety of on-sellers who may wish to provide extra services
at installation (particularly if they are pool shops, etc).
But the FutureWave Energy Saver doesn’t need “installation” as such – it is quite suitable for the do-it-yourselfer to
put in (how hard is it to unplug the pump power lead and
plug it back in via the FutureWave?).
So many readers may want a “supply only” price, as distinct from a “supply and install”.
We believe the “supply only” price is around $1295.00 – at
least, that’s the only price we could find on the ’net (there
were plenty of suppliers offering the FutureWave but with
only one exception that we could find, all remained pretty coy
about how much it cost. Most simply claimed that you would
save the cost back in two years, or words the that effect).
Incidentally, we have a bit of a problem with that particular
claim. As we noted earlier, two years at full electricity tariff
is about $800; our measurements suggest two years with the
FutureWave is at best about $180. The difference is a bit over
$600 – a fair way short of the $1295 FutureWave cost. Four
years? Now that’s a different proposition.
Conclusion
OK, the FutureWave Energy Saver clearly works and will
clearly save energy. With electricity prices slated to increase
yet again this month, that saving can only be a good thing
and will reduce the payback period of the unit.
Just how much you save also depends on which setting
you run the FutureWave on, the length of time you run it
(eg, does it keep the pool clean?) and whether or not you can
take advantage of lowest electricity tariffs. If all your ducks
line up, the savings can be quite significant.
However, until that interference problem is fixed, anyone
with a FutureWave, especially in the country but even city
dwellers who don’t have strong radio signal levels, may well
run into AM radio reception problems – if not themselves,
with neighbours up to three houses or more away.
SC
For more information on the FutureWave Energy Saver,
and a list of suppliers, visit the company website,
www.futurewaveenergy.com.au, or call Futurewave
Energy Solutions Australia on 1300 979303.
Postal address: PO Box 577, Mooloolaba, Qld. 4557
siliconchip.com.au
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June 2011 21
5/110
Station Rd, Seven Hills NSW 2147 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm)
Phone (02) 9620 9011 www.lhp.net.au
Not long ago, Queensland endured some of the worst
flooding on record. During this time I was offered the
opportunity to recover some radio receivers that
would otherwise have ended up as landfill.
SALVAGING
ELECTRONICS
AFTER THE FLOOD
T
he equipment concerned was
ex-Army communication receivers, Rohde and Schwarz
ESMC 0.5-650MHz, about fifteen
years old. The receivers were stored
in a shed that that went to the roof
in floodwater and remained so for a
day or two.
The owner had picked them up
at auction and was in the process of
selling them on a popular internet
auction site.
Electronics gear, especially the older
stuff, is like artwork – its beauty is in
the eye of the beholder.
Where some would have turfed
these straight on the scrap heap, the
magpie nature in me couldn’t resist a
challenge. Rohde and Schwarz equipment is well built and has a good name,
so I picked up six of the better looking
units to take home and repair.
The rest were consigned to the pile
of ruined memories on the footpath
outside, like the contents of so many
other flood-affected houses in our area.
If you are going to try this sort of
flood recovery of electronic equipment you need to pick your targets.
Some things, like speakers and gear
22 Silicon Chip
with non-removable batteries can be
a lost cause.
As with most flood events, the effects on equipment change with many
different factors. Floodwater might be
clean, like rainwater runoff or a broken
pipe; the flood event may only last a
few minutes or even seconds.
In this flood, the water was brown,
silt-laden (and who knows what else)
and lasted a day or two, the water
backing up a small creek that led to
the local river.
The longer gear is submerged in the
flood water, the more it will accumulate silt and muck. The last local flood
of this calibre was in 1974 and most
places were flooded for a week or more.
After that length of time immersed in
flood water, equipment recovery gets
very difficult.
Each situation requires its own assessment as to the worthiness of an
attempted recovery and special consideration needs to be given to high
voltage and mains-powered gear.
Never try to power up electrical
by Robert Googe
equipment that has come in contact with
water until it has been fully checked by
a suitably experienced person.
And remember your personal
hygiene: flood water can contain all
sorts of contaminants, from industrial
chemicals to raw sewage. If you are at
all suspicious about any contaminants,
use gloves and wash your hands! Even
a face mask might not go astray.
Having never really attempted flood
recovery before, it was time to sit
down and have a think about how to
go about this.
More speed, less haste!
Time is the enemy but I had
other commitments for a few days
and could not begin the rescue
process straight away. So the first
thing I did was take freely available oxygen out of the equation –
the less oxygen available, the slower
the corrosion process.
How would I do that? Well, counterintuitive as it may seem, I drowned the
equipment/gear again.
I figured that if I could cover the
receivers with clean and (almost) ionfree water from our rainwater tank, I
siliconchip.com.au
Just as they were about to be auctioned off on
the internet, the once-in-a-lifetime flood decided to
wreak its havoc (for the second time this lifetime!). Some of these Rohde and Schwartz
receivers were consigned to the scrap heap
. . . but I couldn’t resist having a go at trying
to clean some of them up and get them going!
could achieve several things; give the
gear/equipment a good flush of clean
water, removing some of the silt and
reducing the oxygen availability that
would have been higher in air.
Initially I was stumped as to how
I was going to achieve this, as these
units aren’t exactly on the small side,
about as big as a size 13 shoe box (yes,
I should know!). Something large
enough to completely submerge them,
obviously water tight . . . Then it hit
me, a wheelie bin!
So the contents of our recycling bin
went onto the ground, the receivers
were stacked up inside and the bin
was filled with water from the tank.
Check for batteries!
It was just as I finished filling the
bin, I realised there was something I
needed to do. The first thing I should
have done was to check for batteries
and disable or, preferably, remove
them.
Batteries in water accelerate corrosion by electrolysis, so removing
them is essential. That’s why so many
“I-xxx” devices made by that fruit
company (as Forrest Gump called
siliconchip.com.au
it) do not survive immersion – the
(non-removable) battery voltage kills
circuitry by corroding, or by the voltage being in places it shouldn’t thanks
to moisture.
Quickly pulling apart one of the
units, I found there was a rechargeable
Nicad backup battery on the processor
board. I did not have time to remove
each battery but it was a simple move
of a jumper to take it out of circuit.
This was done for each unit.
The other enemy is bi-metallic corrosion. This is where two dissimilar
metals can set up an ion flow due to
their atomic structure; water in this
case can promote this process. Thankfully, this did not present a problem in
this case, probably because I was using
tank (and therefore quite pure) water.
Documenation
Documentation is another issue –
the more the better. Unfortunately for
specialised gear such as this (and even
more so as it is ex-military), there’s
very little (read: no!) information
freely available on the Internet. Thank-
Even after
rinsing in
fresh (tank)
water, there
was significant
evidence of the
flood inside.
This pic isn’t
of corrosion or
dust due to age,
it’s good old
Brisbane River
mud. Further
inside, I found
quite a bit of
the Brisbane
River itself!
June 2011 23
Once again, I was surprised
at the lack of “damage”
when I opened the lid after
the big rinse. But delving
down revealed a liberal
coating of dirt and, in some
cases, captured areas of
water. All of these required
thorough cleaning/drying
and testing before there
was even a thought of reapplying power.
fully the original owner could give me
an electronic copy of the operation
manual which did have a short section
on troubleshooting. This included a
few steps on narrowing down any issues and outlined supply voltages etc.
A logical order
Two days later I finally had the time
to take the next step and strip one
of these units. After some thought, I
decided on the following procedure:
• Strip each board, removing covers,
RF shielding, etc.
• Wash each part in a tub of water
with a toothbrush/paintbrush/rag.
• Rinse in rainwater.
• Spray liberally with methylated
spirits (metho).
• Gently blow excess fluid off with
compressed air.
• Suitably label the dismantled components.
• Leave in the hot Queensland sun to
dry (we were actually getting some
by that stage!)
The methylated spirits act as a
dewatering agent, actively excluding
moisture from hard to get at areas. I did
think about using liberal amounts of
WD40 or such but as I wasn’t sure of
its effect on RF gear, it was only used
on some of the connectors.
I also avoided the use of a high pressure washer – this can do more harm
than good by destroying fine parts and
pushing contaminants into inaccessible places. Gentle water flow is best.
The tools I used (apart from screwdrivers, pliers etc) included a digital
camera and notebook to aid reconstruction, an electrical safety tester
and multimeter.
Last in, first out: the receiver at the
top of the pile was duly removed from
the water onto our outdoor table. I
started to remove the panels and was
surprised at how little mud and residue was inside.
The basic construction consists of
a chassis/motherboard, front and rear
panels, transformer, DC-DC power
supply – these units can run from both
AC (100-240VAC/50-440Hz) and DC
(10-32VDC) – and ten shielded boards
that slot into the motherboard with
multiple coaxial cable connections
between boards and to the rear panel.
Take copious notes and pics!
For complex equipment it is impor-
A little daunting, perhaps – but if approached in a logical order, disassembly,
cleaning and reassembly should achieve the desired result. It’s important to handle
the cleaning gently, especially when it comes to things like coils and trimmers.
24 Silicon Chip
tant to spend the time taking notes,
photographs and maybe a little reverse
engineering for diagrams. This will aid
the reconstruction.
A block diagram or rough circuit
will help you understand the operation when it comes time to power on
and you have the inevitable faults.
Back to the job at hand: each of the
boards had a shield front and back,
with some having more push-on tin
shielding inside.
It turned out that this level of
shielding is ideal for water containment! This emphasises the effort and
importance of stripping equipment to
its lowest possible level.
RF/IF boards required careful attention to remove dirt and contaminants,
without the movement of numerous
air wound coils. Removing the brown
mud residue was important; it seemed
to dry well, with little electrical conduction properties.
But leaving this is fraught with danger: the problem with silt-like residue
is that it readily absorbs moisture in
high humidity. This could easily be a
problem in the future with it becoming
conductive and/or corrosive.
The boards themselves seemed to
have a protective coating – again this
helped in the restoration. Any socketed chips were carefully removed and
cleaned, as were their sockets.
While most modern components
are impervious to methylated spirits,
one problem with using it was that it
attacked the dyes on the coaxial cable
labels. It did not remove them completely but it is worth keeping this in
mind when you spray it around – as
the commercial cleaners say, test on a
small area first.
The other point to note is that methylated spirits is extremely flammable
and due care must be taken when using it, especially from a spray-bottle.
The power supply
The DC-DC switch-mode power
supply PCB was removed from its
covers and given the same treatment
as the boards.
The mains transformer was more
difficult. It was a toroidal type which
on first look seemed to be sealed. But
on close inspection I could see internal
droplets of condensation on the clear
wrapping. I just had to let it bake in the
hot sun and hope for the best.
Other devices that could trap water,
such as trimpots, switches and connecsiliconchip.com.au
Even if I do say so
myself, the clean-up and
restoration job has come
up a treat. The receivers
probably look a darnedsight better than when
they were taken out of
service. Of course, there’s
been a little bit of “elbow
grease” between then and
now!
tors could only be dried with the rest
of the board and “hope for the best”.
Sunbaking in Queensland
So there we had it. What seemed like
a thousand screws later the whole unit
was reduced to its component parts,
cleaned and placed on a tarp in the
sun, baking.
After a full day of sun, the parts were
covered, left overnight, then around
mid-morning the following day, the
unit was re-assembled while each part
was still hot from the sun. The power
transformer had lost its droplets of
moisture, the power switch was no
longer weeping when pressed – not
a sign of moisture anywhere. Fingers
(and everything else!) crossed . . .
By this stage I had done two units
and it had taken most of two days –
you have to be keen! The next step I
took was to unplug the rear fan from
the power supply and connect it to my
bench supply.
Each of the fans was connected
to an independent supply and run.
Both were fine, no unusual noise,
they sounded just like, well, electric
fans. I decided to let the fans run for
another two days, drawing air through
the units and hopefully removing any
further moisture.
Then came the electrical safety
tests. As with any piece of electrical
equipment, mains insulation needs to
be intact (greater than 1M at a test
voltage of 500V).
Using a multimeter may give the
same resistance reading but only with
an applied voltage of a few volts. It
is important to test with an electrical safety tester for this reason – the
insulation needs to stand up to 500V
without breaking down.
Obviously, low voltage equipment
doesn’t have this requirement.
To do a safety test, make sure the
power switch is on and all AC mains
siliconchip.com.au
circuits are connected and then simply
short active and neutral of the mains
plug and measuring between there
and ground.
Unit 1 was fine but unit 2 was
measuring only a few thousand ohms!
This turned out to be the heatshrink
covering over the power switch connections trapping dirt and moisture.
Removing the heatshrink and a spray
of WD40 fixed that.
Applying power came next. All
boards were popped from their sockets, so the DC supply was only connected to the motherboard.
Initially I tested the unit from DC
using a 12V car battery. The DC supply
burst into life and all voltages were
correct – so far, so good.
Next the AC – I connected it to the
mains and powered up – again fine.
Plugging in all the boards, reconnecting the coaxial cables and the backup
battery went without a hitch as well.
Soon there was static coming from the
speaker. It’s alive!
This receiver is controlled via software through either a GPIB or RS-232
port. Using a terminal program, I was
able to initiate the self test routines.
Everything passed except for the
Synthesiser 2 board, which got a fail.
After pulling the board out again I
closely inspected what I initially assumed to be some sort of tuned, solid
aluminium RF block. In fact it turned
out to be a heat-transfer mechanism
from a hidden SOIC socketed chip to
the shield cover. Removing the block
and chip, then giving it and the socket
a good clean fixed this.
Unit number one was now fully
operational, I could tune into the local ABC AM radio station down at
612kHz all the way up to the 468MHz
emergency services.
As far as the operational specifications, such as selectivity etc, are concerned – I do not know as I don’t have
the facilities to test this. All I know
is that it works and works well, even
when compared to my little Yaesu
scanner.
These results really show how well
built these units are. Their military
equipment application says they have
to be – and they are made to some of
the most demanding and robust construction standards.
I don’t think I’d have the same
success rate with such a complicated
piece of electronic equipment out of
a consumer factory in China (not that
it might stop me trying!).
Honestly, there were only three areas of iron rust stains – two screws (the
rest were stainless steel), the captive
screw blocks on the rear “D” connectors and the end of one feed line cable.
There was some white residue on
PCBs, probably an oxide of tin or lead
from the solder.
So if you do come across flooded
gear and you think it’s worth having
a go – do it!
Just remember the safety of you and
others when you attempt this. For
240V applications, always make sure
the equipment passes electrical safety
tests before plugging it in.
SC
And here’s the
“icing on the
cake” – the
label might
say “fully
functional”
but it certainly
wasn’t when
removed from
the floodwater.
Here it is
passing the
software test
routines. Yay!
June 2011 25
Dick Smith - Your Comple
ThaT’S
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29
A very handy tool set that's organised in a zippered case for easy storage.
Includes a variety of hand tools for use in electronics repair applications,
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but can be ordered in. T4852
98
$
Great for making speaker, TV, and AV connections around the home. This mains-powered soldering station
features a lightweight handle, 45W power, 250°C to 450°C temp range, 1.6mm soldering tip and cleaning
sponge. Not carried in all stores, but can be ordered in. T1976
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Dick Smith Rotary
Coax Stripper
Strips both the outer jacket and inner coax insulation off in one
easy operation. Suits RG-58/59/62 and RG-6 coax. Comes with an
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Dick Smith Adjustable Temperature
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69
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Dick Smith Stainless Steel Digital Calipers
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Quality stainless steel digital calipers with a 4-digit LCD screen,
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Dick Smith 100g
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This solder is 99.3% Tin and 0.7% Copper.
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iron tips. 100g roll. Not carried at all stores,
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Dick Smith Helping Hands
with Magnifier
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Dick Smith 25W Soldering Iron
Basic 25W soldering iron, 240V operation, 370°C
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Use where mains power is not available, provides
up to 510°C tip temperature, conical plated tip,
lead-free solder and protective cap. Requires
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Looking for your nearest Dick Smith store?
Head to dicksmith.com.au!
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Super-compact power solution for charging 2 devices at once in your car eg. a laptop and a mobile
phone. Ideal for travellers, it is supplied with 9 laptop tips, an iPod/iPhone tip and a mini-USB tip for
mobile phones and other compatible devices. M9663
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Dick Smith Regulated AC Adaptor 5V DC 3.0A Output
Small, lightweight regulated DC power adaptor with multi-plug
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Compact and powerful AC adaptor for equipment that requires a higher
current source than standard AC adaptors. 4 switchable DC output
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voltage. Includes 8 different sized DC output tips. M 9985
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Gets at dust in hard to reach places without leaving
residue or moisture. Great for cleaning external
surfaces of keyboards, computers and cameras.
2 x 150g cans. Not carried in all stores, but can be
ordered in. N0055
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Consists of 32 security bits, nine Hex sockets, and a
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Handy test gear for making basic
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LCD screen, 10A max DC current, 2000 count
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Includes test leads, fitted battery and user
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ordered in. Q1467P
This gutsy little speed
controller has a wide
range of applications
and is simple to build
and use. There are
no software settings
to fiddle with but
it does have some
really useful features
such as low-battery
protection, soft start
and adjustable pulse
frequency. It can
run from 12V or 24V
batteries at currents
up to 20A.
By JOHN CLARKE
20A 12/24V DC Motor
Speed Controller Mk.2
Upgraded version of our very popular speed controller
T
HE MOTOR SPEED Controller
described in the June 1997 issue of
SILICON CHIP has to be one of the most
popular projects we have presented;
many thousands have been built. But
as popular as it’s been, readers have often requested simple modifications to
suit myriad applications. So we have
come up with a revised design which
should cope with virtually every possible variation that readers are likely
to envisage. That’s a brave statement
but it is based on literally hundreds of
emails and letters we have answered
on the original project in the 14 years
since it was published.
The original design is still OK but
we strongly recommend this new ver28 Silicon Chip
sion since it has more capabilities and
is easier to build and connect. In fact,
if you have an unassembled version of
the old kit, we suggest you toss the old
PCB and buy the new PCB plus a few
extra bits to make up the new design;
it will be worth it.
New features
First, the new PCB has provision
for an on-board speed control trimpot
(VR1) or as most builders seem to want,
an off-board potentiometer.
For ease of wiring, we have added
heavy-duty screw terminals to the
PCB for the power supply and motor
connections. As well, the in-line fuse
and fast recovery power diode are now
mounted on the PCB and the power
Mosfets and power diode have small
heatsinks fitted.
The circuit now provides full range
speed control from zero to full power;
the older design did not allow full
speed. Apart from letting the motor
operate at full power it also eliminates
switching noise caused by the controller (at the full speed setting).
Variable pulse frequency is another
new feature. Because the speed controller works by pulse width modulation, with the pulse width varying
the voltage fed to the motor, this can
produce more noise from the motor.
This is due to magnetostriction of the
core laminations and rattling of the
siliconchip.com.au
OUTPUT CONTROL
Vcc
13
6
Rt
INSIDE THE TL494
OSCILLATOR
5
8
D
DEADTIME
COMPARATOR
Ct
Q
Q1
FLIP
FLOP
0.12V
CK
0.7V
9
11
Q
Q2
10
DEADTIME 4
CONTROL
PWM
COMPARATOR
0.7mA
ERROR AMP 1
Vcc
12
UV
LOCKOUT
ERROR AMP 2
4.9V
5V REFERENCE
REGULATOR
3.5V
1
3
2
FEEDBACK PWM
COMPARATOR INPUT
15
16
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a TL494 Switchmode Pulse Width Modulation
(PWM) Control IC. External timing components RT & CT on pins 5 & 6 set
the PWM frequency, while output transistors Q1 & Q2 can be configured for
either push-pull or single-ended operation.
armature windings. You can often
reduce this lamination noise by changing the pulse frequency and there is a
trimpot (VR3) on the PCB to provide
this feature.
As mentioned above, we have also
provided low-battery protection. This
is mainly to prevent damage when the
circuit is powered from 12V sealed
lead-acid (SLA) batteries which will
fail completely if they are discharged
below 11V.
Soft start is also included. This will
bring the motor smoothly up to speed
each time power is connected to the
circuit, regardless of the speed setting.
If soft start is not required, it can be
disabled by removing a jumper link.
What’s not in the new version? The
answer is speed regulation. That is
where the circuit reacts to an increase
in load on the motor by increasing the
pulse width, thereby better maintaining the preset speed. The June 1997
version of this circuit did have a form
of speed regulation in that there was
feedback from the negative side of the
motor to one of the error amplifiers.
However, since it did not monitor the
motor’s back-EMF by itself, it could not
really provide full speed regulation.
Nor could it provide full speed operation which this latest version does.
The new 12-24V DC Motor Speed
Controller is presented as a bare PCB.
siliconchip.com.au
7
14
GND
REF OUTPUT
This can be mounted within an existing enclosure using the four mounting holes with stand-offs and screws.
Alternatively, the PCB can be clipped
into a standard UB3 plastic case measuring 130 x 68 x 44mm.
Pulse width modulation
The circuit for the 12-24V DC Motor
Speed Controller is based on a TL494
Switchmode Pulse Width Modulation
(PWM) Control IC. Its block diagram
is shown in Fig.1.
An internal sawtooth oscillator sets
the PWM frequency, as determined by
external timing components RT and
CT. The oscillator frequency is fed
to two comparators (dead-time and
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
20A current rating
12V or 24V operation
On-board trimpot or external
potentiometer for speed adjustment
Optional soft start
0-100% speed control range
Efficient PWM control
PWM frequency adjustment
Low battery protection
PWM) and the resulting PWM signal
gated through a 4-input OR gate to
a flipflop and thence to the steering
control logic for transistors Q1 & Q2.
Q1 & Q2 can be configured to
provide push-pull or a single-ended
output, as set by the output control
input (pin 13). Our circuit ties pin 13
Specifications
Supply Voltage ............................................................................................ 12-30VDC
Supply Current ......................................................................................20A maximum
Output Current ......................................................................................20A maximum
Standby Current ................................................................................................. 20mA
Control Range ................................................................................................. 0-100%
Low Voltage Cut-out ....................................... typically set for 11.5V (for 12V battery)
or 23V for a 24V battery
Pulse Frequency Adjustment ..............................~100Hz to 1.1kHz (129Hz to 1.28kHz
measured on prototype)
Soft Start ...............................................from 0-100% (or to set speed) over about 1s
Mosfet gate rise and fall times .......................................... 1.5μs & 1.6μs respectively
June 2011 29
Parts List
1 PCB, code 11106111, 106 x
60mm
1 UB3 plastic box, 130 x 68 x
44mm (optional)
1 4-way PC-mount screw terminal
block with barriers (9.5mm
spacing) (Jaycar HM-3162 or
equivalent) (CON1)
1 3-way screw terminal block with
5.08mm pin spacing (CON2)
3 TO-220 tapped, finned heat
sinks, 16 x 22 x 16mm (Jaycar
HH-8516)
2 3AG PC-mount fuse clips
1 20A 3AG fast-blow fuse (F1)
1 DIP16 IC socket (optional)
1 TO-220 silicone insulating
washer and insulating bush
2 M4 x 15mm screws
2 M4 nuts
4 M3 x 10mm screws
4 M3 x 6mm screws (optional)
1 M3 nut
1 6mm M3 tapped standoffs
(optional)
1 2-way pin header for LK1
(2.54mm pin spacing)
1 jumper shunt (LK1)
5 PC stakes (TP1-TP5)
1 2N5484 or 2N5485 N-channel
JFET (Q4)
1 MBR20100CT dual 10A 100V
Schottky diode (D1)
5 1N4148 switching diodes
(D2-D6)
2 15V 1W zener diodes (1N4744)
(ZD1,ZD2)
Semiconductors
1 TL494N Switchmode Pulse
Width Modulation Control
Circuit (IC1)
1 LM2940CT-12 12V low dropout regulator (REG1)
2 IRF1405 55V 169A N-Channel
Mosfets (Q1,Q2)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q3)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 100kΩ
1 1kΩ
2 10kΩ
2 47Ω
2 2.2kΩ
low to select single-ended operation,
with Q1 & Q2 driven together up to a
possible 100% duty cycle, ie, full on.
Dead-time normally refers to pushpull operation and is the time between
Q1 switching off and Q2 turning on.
But we are not using push-pull operation in this circuit so the only time it
comes into play is when the “soft start”
feature is enabled. In this case, the
dead-time comparator increases the
PWM duty cycle as the voltage to the
dead-time input, pin 4, slowly drops
in voltage after power is applied.
The TL494 includes a 5V reference
regulator and we use it here as a bias
source for the two error amplifiers.
Error amplifier 1 is used for the speed
30 Silicon Chip
Capacitors
1 22µF 16V low-ESR PC
electrolytic
4 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 1µF monolithic ceramic
1 470nF MKT polyester
3 100nF 63V or 100V MKT
polyester (one required
across motor terminals)
1 56nF MKT polyester
Trimpots
1 10kΩ miniature horizontalmount trimpot or 1 10kΩ
linear potentiometer (VR1)
1 10kΩ top-adjust multi-turn
trimpot (3296W style) (VR2)
2 100kΩ top adjust multi-turn
trimpots (3296W style)
(VR3,VR4)
Resistors for testing
1 1kΩ 0.5W resistor (for 12V
supply) or 1 2.2kΩ 0.5W resistor
(for 24V supply)
control function while error amplifier
2 is used for the low-voltage cut-out
function.
The outputs of the two error amplifiers are ORed together by internal
diodes and the commoned output used
to control the PWM comparator as well
as being made available at pin 3.
Two under-voltage (UV) lock-out
Schmitt trigger comparators monitor
the reference regulator output and the
supply voltage. These comparators
switch off the PWM output when the
reference regulator drops below about
3.5V (eg, if it is shorted) or if the supply
voltage drops below 4.9V. But just to
confuse the issue, we don’t use these
comparators for the low-battery pro-
tection; instead, we use error amplifier
2, as mentioned above.
Circuit details
The full circuit of the DC Motor
Speed Controller is shown in Fig.2.
The motor speed is adjusted using onboard trimpot VR1 or an external potentiometer connected to CON2. This
varies the voltage applied to the IN1+
input (pin 1) of internal error amplifier
1 in the TL494. This is configured as a
unity-gain amplifier to buffer the input
voltage from the speed-control pot.
Trimpot VR2 is connected in series
with VR1 to adjust the voltage range
for VR1. With VR2 adjusted correctly,
the full rotation of VR1 will give the
full speed control from 0-100% PWM
duty cycle. In this case, 100% duty
cycle means that the output Mosfets
are fully turned on and so there is no
pulse width modulation; the motor is
fed with smooth DC.
As already noted, pin 13 of IC1 is
tied low for single-ended operation.
The collectors (C1 & C2) of the internal
transistors are tied together to the Vcc
supply while the common emitters (E1
& E2) at pins 9 & 10 are tied to ground
via a 2.2kΩ resistor. When the internal
transistors are switched on, the gates
of Mosfets Q1 & Q2 are driven high via
diode D2 and their 47Ω gate resistors.
15V zener diodes ZD1 & ZD2 protect
the gates from positive transient voltages above 15V and also from voltages
below ground (clamped to -0.7V)
When the internal transistors are
switched off, the 2.2kΩ resistor on pin
10 pulls the base of transistor Q3 low
and this in turn discharges the gate
capacitances of Q1 & Q2 to rapidly
switch them off, within less than 2μs.
The drains of Mosfets Q1 & Q2 connect to the M- motor terminal and they
act as a “low side” switch, pulling
one side of the motor low while the
other side of the motor connects to
the full supply voltage. Fast recovery
diode D1 clamps the transient spike
voltages generated each time the Mosfets switch off to about 0.7V above the
battery supply.
Soft start
As noted above, the dead-time
control input is pin 4. Normally this
pin should be at 0V so that the PWM
duty cycle is set by trimpot VR1 or
the external potentiometer at CON2.
However, when power is first applied
to the circuit, a 10µF capacitor consiliconchip.com.au
+12-30V
REG1 LM2940CT-12
22 F
16V
GND
470nF
100k
TP3
OUT
IN
10 F
16V
LOW
ESR
100nF
16
15
K
LOW VOLTS VR4
CUTOUT 100k
VR2
10k
C2
TP5
SPEED
VR1
10k
11
D2
A
+IN2
E1
–IN2
E2
CUT THESE TRACKS
ON THE PCB TO USE
AN EXTERNAL POT
2
1
9
10
E
B
1k
2.2k
IC1
TL494
47
–IN1
+5V
+IN1
IRF1405
S
K
ZD1
15V
1W
SOFT
START
D Q1
G
A
LK1
6
Rt
Ct
10k
VR3
100k
Q4
2N5485
G
5
GND
7
100nF
OUTPUT
13
A
100k
D
S
D4
56nF
K
TP4
A
2.2k
K
D3
10 F
D5
A
B
K
E
2N5485
12-24V 20A DC MOTOR CONTROLLER
S
G
LM2940
BC327
ZD1, ZD2
A
–0.3V
K
A
K
D2–D5: 1N4148
2011
A
FB PWM
DEAD 4
TIME
SC
S
K
C
MMC
FREQUENCY
ADJUST
Q2
IRF1405
G
ZD2
15V
1W
Q3
BC327
1 F
TP1
D
47
K
10 F
CON2
A2
A1
8
100k
3
EXT
SPEED
POT
CON1
D1
MBR20100CT
C1
10k
D6
A
M+
12
Vcc
14 REF
OUT
10 F
M–
K
TP2
+5V
0V
F1
20A
D
IN
C
MBR20100
A1
K
GND
OUT
K
IRF1405
G
A2
GND
D
D
S
Fig.2: the complete circuit for the 12-24V DC Motor Controller. IC1 is configured for single-ended operation and its
common emitter outputs at pins 9 & 10 drive parallel Mosfets Q1 & Q2 via diode D2 and their 47Ω gate resistors. Q3
ensures that the Mosfets switch off quickly when the internal transistors switch off.
nected between the 5V reference and
pin 4, initially holds pin 4 at +5V.
This voltage gradually drops to 0V as
the capacitor charges via the 100kΩ
charge resistor.
While ever the voltage at pin 4 is
above about +2.8V, it sets the duty
cycle at 0%, ie, no voltage is applied
to the motor. As the voltage falls below 2.8V, the duty cycle progressively
ramps up to that set by VR1.
The maximum duty available when
the dead-time input is at 0V is about
92%. This restriction in duty cycle is
absolutely necessary when the TL494
is used in the push-pull configuration, where the output transistors
siliconchip.com.au
are switched on and off alternately.
However, we are using this circuit
in single-ended mode and we don’t
need it; we want to be able to provide
a 100% duty cycle, ie, full on.
The restriction in duty cycle to 92%
is set by a 0.12V offset applied to the
dead-time comparator input from pin
4. This is shown on Fig.1.
To negate the effect of this 120mV
offset, we need to generate a small
negative voltage to cancel it. This is
something the chip designers probably
never envisaged but we have come up
with a devious scheme.
It involves feeding the sawtooth
oscillator signal at pin 5 to the gate
of junction FET (JFET) Q4 which is
connected as a source follower. It is
used to drive a diode pump consisting
of diodes D3 & D4, together with the
56nF and 10µF capacitors. Diode D5
prevents the negative voltage going
beyond about -0.3V.
The reason it clamps to -0.3V rather
than the typical -0.6-0.7V is due to the
very low current flow through D5. This
negative voltage is then fed to pin 4 via
a 100kΩ resistor and this cancels the
120mV offset. Is that sneaky or not?
Pulse frequency variation
As mentioned earlier, we have made
provision to vary the PWM switchJune 2011 31
D6
100nF
F1 20A MAX.
2.2k
100k
D2
D1
H1
Q1
47
M+
+M
TP3
22 F
LOW ESR
REG1
TP1
H3
15V
2.2k
CON1
D3
10 F
11160111
4148
10 F
TP4
15V
VR3
4148
100nF
D4
VR1
4148
D5
Q3
D E EP S R O T O M A 0 2
Q2
ZD2
47
10k
100k
x
Q4
H2
10 F
1k
VR2
4148
CON2
IC1 TL494
100k
10 F
TP2 LK1 1 F
56nF
TO EXTERNAL SPEED POT
VR4
0V +12-30V
V21+
V0
4148
M-M
TP5
10k
ZD1
470nF
Fig.3: follow this layout diagram to install the parts on the PCB but leave
VR1 out if you are using an external speed control pot. Note that diode D1
(but not Q1 or Q2) must be insulated from its heatsink – see Fig.4.
M3 TAPPED HOLE
HEATSINK
SILICONE WASHER
M3 x 10mm SCREW
INSULATING
BUSH
x
D1
PCB
Fig.4 (above): this mounting arrangement
shows how diode D1 is insulated from
its heatsink using an insulating bush and
silicone washer.
Fig.5 (right): cut the tracks indicated here if
you install trimpot VR1 but later decided to
use an external speed control pot (see text).
ing frequency because it allows you
to use a setting which produces the
minimum “singing” noise from the
motor laminations.
Hence, the oscillator frequency is
set by varying the resistance from pin
6 to the 0V line using 100kΩ multiturn trimpot VR3. This provides a frequency range of adjustment between
about 120Hz and 1.2kHz.
Although the input voltage can
be anywhere from 12-30V or a little
more, to cope with 12V or 24V lead
acid batteries, the TL494 is run from
a 12V low-dropout regulator REG1
(LM2940CT-12). This can provide
a 12V output with an input voltage
that is only 0.5V above 12V. As the
input voltage drops below this, the
regulator’s output will also drop in
value but the circuit will continue to
function until the supply drops below
the preset low-voltage cut-out which
we will come to in a moment.
32 Silicon Chip
CUT THESE TRACKS
WHEN USING AN
EXTERNAL SPEED POT
(UNDERSIDE OF PCB)
REG1 can cope with supply voltage
spikes up to 45V which is important if
the circuit is run from a 24V battery;
in a vehicle, this can range up above
29V and motor spikes will add to that.
The IN2- input, pin 15, which monitors the battery voltage is connected
via a 100kΩ resistor and is protected
by diode D6, so reverse voltage will
cause no problems there.
For the rest of the circuit, if the
battery supply is reverse connected,
heavy current will flow through the
integral diodes within Q1 & Q2, via
forward biased diode D1 and fuse
F1 which will blow and prevent any
damage.
Low-battery protection
We already mentioned that error
amplifier 2 provides this function and
the low voltage setting is provided
by trimpot VR4. You can monitor the
voltage setting at test point TP5. The
set-up procedure is described later in
this article.
However, there is a little more to
the story because we can’t simply
have the circuit cutting off when the
battery voltage drops below 11.5V (for
a 12V lead-acid battery). What would
happen is that when the circuit stops
operating, the battery voltage will inevitably bounce back up again because
the current drain suddenly drops. So
if the battery voltage goes back up, the
circuit starts operating again and then
it goes off again and so on. The result is
that the motor will get rapid bursts of
power as it stutters on an off; not good.
We get around that problem by
adding hysteresis to the low-voltage
cut-out function.
So instead of simply biasing the
+IN2 input, pin 16, from the +5V
output at pin 14, we also connect it to
the PWM input at pin 3 via a 100kΩ
resistor.
Now when the speed controller is
working normally, the voltage at pin
3 will vary between 2.5V at 0% duty
cycle and 0.7V for 100% duty cycle
and this causes the voltage at the IN2+
input to vary between +4.61V and
+4.77V. However, when a low-battery
condition is detected, the PWM comparator output at pin 3 is forced high
to nearly +5V and this means that the
+IN2 input at pin 16 is now very close
to +5V (instead of between +4.61V
and +4.77V).
Hence, for normal operation to resume, the -IN2 input at pin 15 must
rise above +5V and that effectively
means that the battery voltage has to
siliconchip.com.au
increase by about 0.8V, a fairly big
increase. By the way, if you need more
hysteresis, just reduce the 100kΩ resistor, eg, to 91kΩ or 82kΩ.
This view shows the completed unit,
wired with an external speed control
pot. Note the insulating bush and
silicone washer used to isolate diode
D1 from its heatsink. The complete
board can be clipped into a standard
UB3 utility box.
Construction
The 20A 12/24V DC Motor Controller is built on a PCB coded 11106111
and measuring 106 x 60mm. Fig.3
shows the assembly details.
Begin by checking the PC board for
breaks in the tracks or shorts between
tracks and pads. That done, check that
the hole sizes are correct by test fitting
the larger parts (fuse clips, screw terminal blocks, Mosfets Q1 & Q2, etc).
The four corner holes should each be
drilled to 3mm.
Start the assembly by installing the
resistors, followed by diodes D2-D6
and zener diodes ZD1 & ZD2. Table
1 shows the resistor colour codes but
you should also check each resistor
using a digital multimeter (DMM)
before installing it. Take care with the
diodes and zener diodes – they must be
orientated exactly as shown on Fig.3.
Once these parts are in place, install
a socket for IC1. Alternatively, this IC
(TL494) can be soldered directly to
the board. Make sure it is orientated
correctly. The capacitors can then go
in and again the electrolytic types must
be oriented correctly.
Follow with the trimpots but leave
trimpot VR1 out if you intend using
an external potentiometer for speed
adjustment. Trimpots VR2-VR4 are
all multi-turn types and should be
orientated as shown. Note that VR2 is
a 10kΩ unit while VR3 & VR4 are both
100kΩ trimpots. Don’t mix them up.
The 3-way screw terminal block is
next on the list. Make sure it is correctly seated against the board and
that its openings face outwards before
soldering its pins. The 4-way terminal
strip can then go in. It’s secured to the
board at either end using two M4 x
15mm screws and M4 nuts. Tighten
the mounting screws firmly before
soldering its leads to the PCB.
The two fuse clips are next. Note
that these must both be orientated with
their end stops towards the outside. If
you get them the wrong way around,
you will not be able to install the fuse
afterwards.
Don’t be tempted to solder the fuse
clips with the fuse in place. If you do,
the heat may partially melt the solder
used to secure the fuse wire to the end
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
1µF
470nF
100nF
56nF
µF Value
1µF
0.47µF
0.1µF
0.056µF
IEC Code
1u0
470n
100n
56n
EIA Code
105
474
104
563
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
3
2
2
1
2
Value
100kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black gold brown
June 2011 33
Fig.5: this scope grab shows the controller’s operation at
a low setting, ie, a duty cycle of 15%. The top (yellow)
trace is the signal applied to the gate of Mosfet Q1 and
has an amplitude of 11.9V. Each positive gate pulse turns
on the Mosfets and pulls the motor’s M- terminal low, as
shown by the green trace. The blue trace shows the battery
voltage at the motor’s M+ terminal. Each time the gate
voltage drops to zero (ie, at the end of each positive gate
pulse), the Mosfets turn off and the motor voltage rises to
a spike above the blue (battery voltage) trace. Schottky
diode D1 stops it rising a great deal higher.
Fig.6: this scope grab shows the operation at a much
higher setting, with a duty cycle of 80.3%. In this case,
the positive gate pulses (yellow trace) are much longer, at
1.83ms. Now, each time the Mosfets turn off, they generate
an even higher spike voltage.
caps and you could get an open circuit or dry joint. Hint:
you can use sticky tape to hold the fuse clips (and other
parts) in place while you solder them.
Follow by installing PC stakes at test points TP1-TP5 and
the 2-way header for LK1. A shorting jumper can then be
fitted to this header to enable the soft start feature.
Installing the semiconductors
Transistors Q3 (BC327) and Q4 (2N5485) can now be
fitted, followed by regulator REG1 which is mounted
horizontally on the board. The latter is installed by first
34 Silicon Chip
bending its leads down at right angles so that they pass
through their mounting holes. REG1’s tab is then secured
to the PCB using an M3 x 6mm machine screw and nut,
after which the leads are soldered.
Don’t solder REG1’s leads before securing its tab. If you
do, you could crack the board tracks as the mounting screw
is tightened down.
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 and Schottky diode D1 are each
mounted vertically and fastened to separate small heatsinks. The three heatsinks are installed first, by soldering
their locating pins to the relevant PCB pads. Make sure that
the heatsinks are properly seated against the PCB before
soldering them in place.
That done, slide Q1 & Q2 into their mounting holes and
fasten them directly to their respective heatsinks using M3
x 10mm machine screws (the heatsinks come pre-tapped).
Tighten the screws firmly, then solder their leads.
Diode D1 is mounted in a similar way except that it requires an insulating bush and silicone washer to insulate
its tab from the heatsink. Fig.4 shows how this is done. As
before, tighten the screw firmly before soldering its leads.
Finally, use your multimeter to confirm that D1’s metal
tab is indeed isolated from its heatsink (and from the metal
tabs of Q1 & Q2).
Testing
Before moving on to the test procedure, note that a 100nF
MKT capacitor should be connected directly across the motor’s terminals. This is necessary to reduce electromagnetic
radiation from the motor.
If you are using an external 10kΩ potentiometer for the
speed control, connect this up now. Conversely, if you are
using trimpot VR1 instead, this should be installed on the
PCB. If you do install VR1 but later decide that you want
to use an external pot, then you must cut the PCB tracks
running to the top of the this trimpot and to its wiper.
This is necessary to prevent the trimpot and the external
potentiometer acting in parallel
Fig.5 shows which tracks to cut. These tracks have been
deliberately thinned at the indicated locations and can be
cut using a sharp hobby knife. If necessary, they can later
be rejoined using solder bridges (ie, if you want to revert to
using the trimpot). Alternatively, you can leave the tracks
intact and remove the trimpot instead.
The completed unit can now be tested by following this
step-by-step procedure (without the motor connected):
(1) Connect a 1kΩ 0.5W resistor between the M+ and Mterminals and apply 12-15V DC to the supply terminals
(ie, to the +12-30V and 0V terminals). Watch the polarity.
Note that a 24V DC supply can also be used but in that
case, you should connect a 2.2kΩ 0.5W resistor between
the M+ and M- terminals.
(2) Connect a digital multimeter (set to volts) between test
points TP1 (ground, bottom left) and TP3 (above REG1).
This lets you check the regulator voltage. You should
get a reading on TP3 of somewhere between 11.4V and
12.6V, provided the supply voltage is above 13.6V. TP3’s
voltage may be slightly lower if the supply voltage is less
than 13.6V.
If TP3’s voltage is below the expected range, check for
incorrectly oriented components (eg, IC1 and the electrolytic capacitors) and for short circuits between tracks.
(3) Check that the reference voltage on TP2 is between
siliconchip.com.au
4.75V and 5.25V. If not, check for a short circuit from pin
14 of IC1 to 0V.
(4) Assuming all is correct, adjust VR1 (or the external
pot) fully anti-clockwise and check the voltage on the
centre terminal of CON2. Adjust trimpot VR2 so that this
voltage is the same as that previously measured at TP2 (ie,
between 4.75V and 5.25V).
(5) Check that the “dead-time” offset voltage between
TP4 & TP1 is at about -0.3V. If this is a positive voltage,
check the value of the 100kΩ resistor at D5’s cathode and
that D3-D5 are orientated correctly. The 10µF capacitors
across D5 and on pin 4 of IC1 should also be checked for
correct polarity.
(6) Adjust VR4 so that the voltage between TP5 & TP1 is
above the TP2 voltage (if this is not done, the PWM drive
will not operate due to low-voltage detection).
(7) Connect a DMM set to read DC volts across the M+ and
M- terminals. Adjust the speed control pot (or trimpot VR1)
and check that the output voltage varies accordingly. With
the speed pot fully anticlockwise, the measured voltage
between M+ and M- should be 0V. As the pot is wound
clockwise, this voltage should rise. The maximum level
should be very close to the supply voltage.
Fig.7: this shows an intermediate speed setting, with a
duty cycle of 53.7% and a gate pulse width of 1.225ms.
Note that when the Mosfets turn off, the M- voltage briefly
rises above the battery voltage (M+). It then falls to a
plateau value which represents the motor’s back-EMF.
Note that there is also some hash on this waveform and
this is due to brush and commutator hash.
Control range
At this stage in the adjustment procedure, the voltage
between M+ and M- should reach its minimum well before
the speed control pot is wound fully anticlockwise. You
now need to readjust VR2 to broaden this range.
To make this adjustment, wind the speed control pot
fully anticlockwise and adjust VR2 clockwise so that the
voltage between M+ and M- just starts to rise above 0V.
That done, slowly adjust trimpot VR2 back anticlockwise
until 0V is reached, then back it off slightly further by
about a half turn.
Low-voltage cut-out
Trimpot VR4 sets the low-voltage cut-out. To set this at
11.5V, first measure the battery supply voltage and subtract
0.6V from this measurement. That done, multiply the result by 0.426, then adjust VR4 so that the voltage on TP5
measures this calculated value.
For example, if the battery voltage is 12V, then (12 - 0.6)
x 0.426 = 4.86V. VR4 is therefore adjusted to give a reading
of 4.86V at TP5. When the battery voltage drops to 11.5V,
TP5’s voltage will fall to 4.65V and the low-voltage cutout will activate at close to this voltage (ie, between 4.61V
and 4.77V). The battery voltage required for the circuit to
switch on again is 12.33V – ie, (5V ÷ 0.426) + 0.6V.
If you have an adjustable power supply, the low-battery
cut-out action can be tested. To do this, first set the speed
pot to its mid-point, so that there is a voltage between the
M+ and M- terminals. Now reduce the supply voltage until
the voltage between the M+ and M- terminals suddenly
drops to 0V. The supply voltage at which this occurs is
the battery cut-out voltage and should be close to 11.5V.
If necessary, adjust VR4 to give a more accurate cut-out
voltage.
For a 24V battery, the low-battery cut-out voltage can
be set to 23V. In this case, measure the battery supply
voltage and subtract 0.6V. Now multiply the result by
0.208 and adjust VR4 so that the voltage at TP5 equals
the calculated value.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: this scope shot illustrates the clamping action of
the fast recovery diode (D1). Taken at a much faster scope
horizontal sweep speed, it clearly shows the diode action.
Note that there is quite a lot of ringing on both the battery
supply line (M+ blue trace) and the M- line (green trace).
So even with the ringing, the diode faithfully clamps the
M- line just above the M+ line. It actually appears to clamp
at about 1V above the supply line but the real value is less
than 1V.
That completes the adjustment procedure and you can
remove the resistor that’s across the M+ and M- terminals.
Tweaking the PWM frequency
As stated, the motor may generate an audible noise due
to the Mosfets switching on and off at the PWM frequency.
VR3 can be adjusted to minimise this noise, although it
may not be possible to completely silence it. A 100nF MKT
polyester capacitor connected directly across the motor
terminals can also help reduce motor noise (and reduce
SC
electromagnetic interference).
June 2011 35
Make high-quality audio recordings with this . . .
USB Stereo Recording
& Playback Interface
It uses balanced mikes and has S/PDIF & line
inputs as well
By JIM ROWE
Now you can use your laptop PC to make high-quality stereo audio
recordings with professional standard balanced microphones. This
interface unit lets you make recordings at sampling rates up to 48
kilosamples/second and provides high-quality stereo analog line
outputs for playback or monitoring. There’s also an S/PDIF digital
audio input for recording and an S/PDIF digital audio output for
playback.
36 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
VCCCI
VCCP1I VCCP2I VCCXI
VDDI
INSIDE THE TEXAS INSTRUMENTS PCM2902
5V TO 3.3V LDO REGULATOR
S/PDIF DECODER
USB PROTOCOL
CONTROLLER
VINL
FIFO
ADC
VINR
Vcom
SSPND
POWER
MANAGER
LOCK
DIN
SELECTOR
USB TO
HOST
ISOCHRONOUS
IN
ENDPOINT
USB
SIE
TRANSCEIVER
CONTROL
ENDPOINT
ANALOG PLL
DAC
DOUT
12MHz
XTAL
SEL0
SEL1
ISOCHRONOUS
OUT
ENDPOINT
HID0
HID
ENDPOINT
S/PDIF ENCODER
XTI
D+
ANALOG PLL
FIFO
PLL (X8)
D–
DGNDU
VOUTL
VOUTR
Vbus (+5V)
96MHz
HID1
HID2
TRACKER (SPACT)
AGNDC
XTO
AGNDP AGNDX
DGND
Fig.1: this block diagram shows what’s inside the PCM2902 stereo audio CODEC IC. It provides line-level analog
stereo inputs & outputs, an S/PDIF digital audio input, an S/PDIF output and a full-speed USB interface.
W
HILE MOST LAPTOPS have a
built-in sound card, they’re no
good for high-quality audio recordings. Most built-in sound cards are of
somewhat indifferent quality when it
comes to the recording side and they
don’t provide balanced inputs for
professional type microphones, which
are really necessary for making highquality recordings.
Hence, if you want to use a laptop,
you need an “audio front-end” with
balanced-input microphone preamps
feeding a pair of high-quality analogto-digital converters or “ADCs”. And
since most laptops have at least one
USB port, the easiest way to connect
such an audio front-end to them is
via a USB cable. This has the added
advantage of allowing the audio frontend to draw its power from the laptop,
via the same cable.
So that was the rationale behind the
low-cost audio front-end unit we’re
describing here. Or at least, those
were our basic goals when we started
its development. Along the way it
“grew some” when we realised that it
wouldn’t be too difficult to provide it
with various bonus features:
siliconchip.com.au
(1) line-level analog stereo recording
inputs;
(2) line-level analog stereo outputs for
playback and/or monitoring; and
(3) S/PDIF digital audio input and
output for direct digital recording and
playback.
In effect, it has become a flexible
multi-purpose USB audio interface –
not just for laptops but for virtually any
PC. It’s easy to build and much lower
in cost than comparable commercial
units. What’s more, there’s no software
to install – you just connect it up and
it runs on Windows XP SP3, Windows
Vista and Windows 7 (both 32 & 64bit). It should also work with recent
Linux and Mac operating systems.
What’s inside?
The heart of the project is the
PCM2902 from Texas Instruments.
This was originally developed by BurrBrown, which was acquired by TI not
long ago. The PCM2902 is described
as a single-chip stereo audio CODEC
with an inbuilt full-speed USB protocol controller, SIE (serial interface
engine) and transceiver.
As well as providing line-level
analog stereo inputs for recording and
line-level stereo outputs for playback,
it includes an S/PDIF digital audio
input for recording and an S/PDIF
output for direct digital playback. And
of course, it has an inbuilt full-speed
USB interface.
Fig.1 shows the goodies packed
inside the PCM2902. To the right of
centre is the USB protocol controller
block which provides four main USB
“end-points”: (1) a control end-point
which receives control commands
from the PC host; (2) an HID (human
interface device) end-point which
allows inputs to the chip to generate keypress events on the host PC,
to control muting, volume, etc; (3)
an isochronous IN end-point which
handles the transfer of audio recording
data from the ADC section IN to the PC
via the USB; and (4) an isochronous
OUT endpoint which handles the
transfer of audio playback data OUT
of the PC via the USB, feeding it to the
DAC section.
Don’t worry too much about these
terms but you might like to know that
“isochronous” means that the audio
data packets are transferred at a conJune 2011 37
What The Acronyms
Acronym s Mean
ADC: an analog-to-digital converter, which samples incoming analog (audio) at a designated rate such as 44,100 samples per second and
outputs the samples as a digital serial bitstream. A stereo ADC samples both channels simultaneously but interleaves the samples in the
output bitstream (ie, L-R-L-R and so on).
CODEC: short for “coder/decoder” – basically a combination of one or more ADCs with one or more DACs. It can also include functional
blocks for encoding and decoding the digital samples.
DAC: a digital-to-analog converter, which converts digital data samples into the equivalent analog voltages or currents. A stereo audio DAC
is really two separate DACs, one of which converts the left channel samples in the incoming bitstream, while the other DAC converts the
right channel samples.
FIFO: a First-In-First-Out buffer, which provides temporary storage for a stream of digital data. Although it functions like a serial delay line,
most FIFOs are actually implemented with dual-ported random-access RAM.
LDO: a Low-DropOut voltage regulator – ie, one which requires a very small difference between the unregulated input voltage and the regulated
output voltage in order to operate correctly.
PLL: a Phase-Locked Loop, which is a functional block designed to lock an oscillator to an exact multiple or sub-multiple of a frequency
from another oscillator.
SIE: short for “Serial Interface Engine”. A functional block which manages the packaging/transmission and reception/unpackaging of data
transferred via a serial interface like USB.
S/PDIF: the Sony/Philips Digital Interface Format, a protocol and physical layer specification used to transport digital audio signals between
devices and components. The signals can travel over either a coaxial cable or an optical fibre cable (in the latter case it is usually called
“TOSLINK”). It is a consumer-level adaptation of the original AES/EBU (Audio Engineering Society/European Broadcasting Union) standard
for professional digital audio. The serial audio data stream is encoded with “biphase mark coding”.
TOSLINK: short for Toshiba Optical Serial Link, the version of S/PDIF which uses optical fibre cables to carry the digital audio bitstream.
USB: short for “Universal Serial Bus”, the serial data communications bus now very widely used to link PCs with a broad range of peripheral
devices. The original USB 1.0/1.1 standard supported communication at Low Speed (1.5Mbits/second) and Full Speed (12Mb/s). When USB
2.0 was subsequently introduced this also covered High Speed (480Mb/s), while the recently adopted USB 3.0 standard adds Super Speed
(5Gb/s). USB 1.1 and 2.0 use a standard 4-wire cable, with different connectors at each end – Type A for connection to the “downstream”
port of the PC or an intermediate hub, and Type B for connection to the “upstream” port of the USB peripheral device.
stant rate (isochronous = equal time).
You might also want to note that we’re
not actually making use of the HID
end-point in this project.
To the right of the USB protocol
controller block are the USB SIE and
transceiver sections which transmit
and receive all the data and control
packets transferred over the USB
signal lines. Just above the protocol
controller is the power manager block
which controls the power taken by the
external circuitry, as directed by the
host PC’s USB driver.
Thus, when the PC directs the
PCM2902 protocol controller to switch
the device into low power “suspend”
mode because no activity has been
detected for a few milliseconds, the
power manager block drops the logic
level on the SSPND-bar output pin.
This is used by external control circuitry to turn off power to everything
but the “brains” of the PCM2902 chip
itself.
As soon as the PC directs the protocol controller to resume normal operation, the power manager pulls the
SSPND-bar line high again, so power
is restored to the external circuitry and
38 Silicon Chip
it can get back to work.
The sections to the left of the USB
protocol controller block in Fig.1 are
those involved in processing the record and replay signals. In the upper
area, there’s the stereo ADC section
for converting incoming analog audio
into 16-bit digital samples, together
with the S/PDIF digital audio input
decoder. The digital bitstream from
one of these is fed through a FIFO (first
in, first out) buffer to the isochronous
IN endpoint of the USB protocol controller, for transmission to the PC host.
By the way, if there’s a signal from
the S/PDIF input decoder it becomes
the recording signal but if there is no
S/PDIF signal, the bitstream from the
ADCs is fed to the FIFO block as the
recording signal.
In the lower area of the block
diagram there’s a second FIFO buffer
which is fed from the protocol controller’s isochronous OUT endpoint with
audio playback data received from
the PC host. The output of this second
FIFO is fed to the stereo DAC section
to be converted into analog playback
audio. At the same time, it is fed to the
S/PDIF encoder section to produce a
digital playback bitstream.
So the playback signals simultaneously appear at both the analog audio
outputs and the digital S/PDIF output.
Note that the clock signals used by
all parts of the PCM2902 are derived
from a single 12MHz oscillator inside
the chip itself (apart from the crystal
and some minor components). An
internal PLL (phase-locked loop) is
used to multiply the crystal frequency
by eight, producing a 96MHz clock
that’s used to drive most of the chip’s
circuitry – including the ADCs, DACs
and USB control circuitry.
An important feature of the PCM2902
is the “tracker” section you can see just
below the USB protocol controller.
This takes the 96MHz internal clock
and locks it to an audio clock signal derived from the USB data packets, using
what TI calls its “SpAct” architecture.
This is claimed to reduce clock jitter
for both recording and playback and
also allows simultaneous recording
and playback at different sampling
rates.
Note that the PCM2902’s ADCs use
16-bit delta-sigma conversion and can
work at any of seven standard samsiliconchip.com.au
pling rates: 8, 11.025, 16, 22.05, 32,
44.1 and 48kHz. The DACs also use
16-bit delta-sigma architecture but can
only operate at the three most popular
sampling rates: 32, 44.1 or 48kHz.
As you can see then, the PCM2902
is a very powerful chip, containing
all the main functions needed for a
high-quality USB stereo recording and
playback interface.
Circuit description
Refer now to Fig.2 for the complete
circuit of the USB Stereo Recorder &
Playback Interface. Now that you’ve
seen inside the wondrous PCM2902
chip, you should be able to follow its
operation without any problems.
All the circuitry to the left of the
PCM2902 itself (IC3) is concerned with
preparing the incoming audio signals
for recording. The left-channel analog
recording circuitry is shown at top,
with identical circuitry for the right
channel below it. Each channel has a
balanced microphone input connector (CON1 & CON3) and each of these
feeds a balanced-input mic preamp
using three sections of an MCP6024
low-noise, low-voltage CMOS quad op
amp (IC1c,b&d and IC2c,b&a).
The gain of these preamps is adjusted via a dual-gang potentiometer
(VR1a & VR1b). This allows the gain
to be optimised without running into
overload. The maximum preamp gain
is 201, which should be sufficient for
most microphones.
The line-level output from each mic
preamp (ie, at pin 14 of IC1d & pin 1
of IC2a) is fed to its corresponding
position on double-pole switch S1. Alternatively, the second position of each
pole is used to select the signals from
the line-level input sockets (CON2 and
CON4). The signals selected by S1a
and S1b are then fed to third-order
active low-pass filters based on IC1a
& IC2d.
These fare used for “anti-aliasing”
and filter out any audio components
above about 22kHz. Without these
filters, there could be audible alias
components being generated as part
of the sampling process.
The outputs of the anti-aliasing filters are in turn fed to the ADC inputs of
the PCM2902 (VinL at pin 12 and VinR
at pin 13) via 1µF coupling capacitors.
Note that because the op amps
in IC1 and IC2 are being operated
from a single DC supply rail (Vcc)
of approximately 4.0V, they must be
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications
Purpose: a digital stereo recording and playback interface for laptop PCs, which links to the PC via a
standard USB cable and is powered from the PC’s USB port via the same cable. Features include:
• Twin balanced-input microphone preamps for use with professional type microphones.
• Selectable line-level stereo analog inputs.
• High-quality stereo ADCs for recording at any of seven standard sampling rates (8, 11.025, 16,
22.05, 32, 44.1 and 48kHz).
Built
in stereo DACs for replay at any of three standard sampling rates (32, 44.1 and 48kHz).
•
• An S/PDIF digital audio input to allow recording directly from an S/PDIF digital audio signal, as
an alternative to the analog audio inputs.
• An S/PDIF digital audio output to allow playback via a high-quality digital sound system, as an
alternative to the analog audio outputs.
16-bit
delta/sigma ADCs and DACs.
•
Fully
compliant
with the USB 1.1 specification.
•
• Installs automatically on Windows XP SP3 and later operating systems (plus recent Mac &
Linux systems) using the standard USBaudio.sys drivers – no custom drivers required.
• Fully compatible with Windows-based audio recording and playback software such as
“Audacity”.
Frequency
response: Recording = 20Hz - 17kHz +0dB/-1.0dB, 15Hz - 20kHz +0dB/-2.0dB;
•
Playback = 30Hz - 18kHz +0dB/-1.0dB, 20Hz - 21kHz +0dB/-2.0dB
• Low current drain (below 70mA).
biased midway between Vcc and 0V to
ensure maximum output swing with
minimum distortion. This Vcc/2 bias
voltage is derived from a resistive voltage divider consisting of two 2.7kΩ
resistors (just above IC1a). The same
voltage is also used to bias the replay
filters and output buffers in IC4, which
we’ll come to in a moment.
The only remaining part of the
recording circuitry is CON5. This is
the S/PDIF digital bitstream input. Its
signal is simply fed into the Din input
(pin 24) of the PCM2902 via a 100nF
capacitor.
150nF capacitor and a resistive divider
to provide the correct peak-to-peak
amplitude.
The external components needed
by the PCM2902’s 12MHz master
clock oscillator are shown just below
the Dout output pin. Apart from the
12MHz crystal itself, there are two
low-value NPO ceramic capacitors
which are used to bring the crystal’s
frequency into the correct range
(12.000MHz ±6kHz), plus a 1MΩ biasing resistor to ensure that the oscillator
has minimum “start-up” delay when
power is applied.
Replay circuit
USB interface
The replay circuitry is shown to the
lower right of the PCM2902. The DAC
output signals appear at VoutL (pin 16)
and VoutR (pin 15) of the PCM2902
and are fed via 1µF coupling capacitors to active low-pass filters based on
IC4b and IC4c. These two filters are
identical to those used in the recording
channels and remove any glitches that
are present in the DAC outputs. The
filtered signals are then passed through
unity gain buffer stages IC4a and IC4d
and fed to the line output connectors
(CON7 & CON8) via 1μF capacitors.
The S/PDIF digital replay output
appears at the Dout pin (pin 25) of
the PCM2902. This is then fed to the
S/PDIF output connector (CON6) via a
The only part of the circuit we
haven’t yet discussed is the USB interface and power management section.
Because the SIE and USB transceiver
are inside the PCM2902, the external
part of the USB interface is really very
simple. As shown, the four pins of USB
connector CON9 are connected to the
corresponding pins on the PCM2902,
via 22Ω suppressor resistors in the case
of the D+ and D- signal lines and via
a 2.2Ω current-limiting resistor in the
case of the Vbus line.
The +5V supply applied to pin 3
(Vbus) when the interface is connected
to the PC host (via a USB cable) is
passed through an LDO (low dropout)
regulator inside the PCM2902. The
June 2011 39
100
100nF
470nF
100k
LEFT
MIC
INPUT
1
100k
9
2
47pF
22pF
100k
BOX &
FRONT
PANEL
2.7k
4
Vcc/2
8
IC1c
10k
22pF
CON1
3
10
IC1: MCP6024
100
LEFT CH
MIC LEVEL
VR1a
10k
10k
100 F
10k
10k
12
10k
IC1d
14
10k
MIC
5
15k
820pF
33k
82pF
3
2
1
IC1b
7
220nF
100k
Vcc/2
100
100nF
100k
10
100k
2
47pF
22pF
100k
BOX &
FRONT
PANEL
9
8
IC2c
S/PDIF IN
MIC/LINE
INPUT
SELECT
IC2: MCP6024
10k
100
RIGHT CH
MIC LEVEL
VR1b
10k
10k
Vcc
10 F
4
10k
22pF
CON3
3
IC1a
11
150k
1
CON5
10k
2
3
10k
IC2a
10k
1
MIC
LINE
8.2k
S1b
1nF
15k
820pF
33k
82pF
12
13
IC2d
14
6
470nF
5
IC2b
7
220nF
11
100k
100k
SC
1nF
LINE
100nF
2011
8.2k
6
470nF
470nF
RIGHT
LINE
INPUT
S1a
CON2
RIGHT
MIC
INPUT
2.7k
13
100k
LEFT
LINE
INPUT
Vcc
10 F
Vcc/2
CON4
150k
100nF
USB STEREO RECORDING & PLAYBACK INTERFACE
Fig.2: the circuit for the USB Stereo Recording & Playback Interface. Quad op amps IC1 & IC2 form balanced microphone
preamp and filter stages, while IC4(a)-4(d) filter and buffer the line outputs from IC3. In addition, IC3 directly interfaces
to the S/PDIF input & output sockets and to a type-B USB socket.
LDO’s output in turn appears at pin
27 (Vddi). Because the D+ signal line
of the USB interface is connected to
this pin via a 1.5kΩ resistor, this means
that the D+ signal line is pulled up to
a voltage close to Vbus. According to
the USB specification, this is the correct way of indicating to the PC host
controller that a USB device is capable
of full-speed (12Mb/s) operation.
Finally, we come to the power man40 Silicon Chip
agement circuitry which is based on
REG1, a REG103GA-A LDO regulator
made by TI. There are two features that
make this regulator special.
The first is that its output voltage
can be adjusted, something that’s
not all that common with LDOs. The
second is that it’s provided with an
enable input (pin 5), so its output can
be turned on and off very quickly by
a control signal applied to this pin.
These two features, together with
its use of internal DMOS circuitry to
achieve an exceptionally low drop-out
voltage (typically <20mV for 90mA
output current) make the REG103GAA ideally suited for this sort of application.
REG1’s output voltage is set to 4V by
the resistive divider connected to pin 4
(ADJ). In addition, pin 5 (EN) of REG1
is connected to pin 28 (SSPND-bar) of
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 REG103GA-A
Vcc (~4.0V)
2
A
D1
1N5819
K
+3.6–3.85V
10
VcccI
12
14
SSPND
Vcom
Vbus
D–
IC3
PCM2902
D+
23
11
28
5
HID0
6
HID1
7
HID2
27
VddI
9
SEL1
8
SEL0
26
DGND
VinL
TANT
24
DgndU
VoutL
1 F
TANT
100nF
1.5k
2.2
3
TO
HOST PC
CON9
USB TYPE B
+5V
1
22
2
1 F
TANT
1
2
3
4
22
4
Din
VccXI
1 F
TANT
GND
3,6
TANT
10 F
100nF
ADJ
EN
5
+5V
1
13k
10 F
AgndC
1 F MKT
4
10nF
27k
100nF
IN
OUT
16
1 F
8.2k
MKT
1nF
100k
1 F
TANT
15k
820pF
BOX & FRONT PANEL
33k
4
5
IC4b
82pF
7
6
3
2
IC4a
1
1 F
100
Vcc/2
13
17
VoutR
VinR
8.2k
Dout
XTI
Vcc/2
15k
1nF
Vccp1I
XTO
1 F
TANT
1 F
MKT
1 F
TANT
19
15
820pF
IC4: MCP6024
33k
10
82pF
9
AgndP
AgndX
18
22
IC4c
8
12
13
11
IC4d
14
1 F
100
RIGHT LINE
OUT
CON8
220k
25
20
1M
21
150nF
X1 12MHz
Vccp2I
CON7
220k
100k
1 F MKT
LEFT LINE
OUT
47pF
S/PDIF OUT
220
CON6
110
39pF
PCM2902
REG103GA-A
1N5819
A
the PCM2902. So whether or not REG1
provides this output voltage depends
not only on the presence of +5V from
the PC via pin 1 of CON9 but also
on the logic level of the SSPND-bar
control signal derived from the power
management circuitry inside IC3.
If the PC directs the USB protocol
controller inside IC3 to reduce the
USB device’s power level and enter
“suspend” mode, the power managesiliconchip.com.au
K
6
1
14
28
5
ment circuitry inside IC3 pulls pin
28 down to 0V. This in turn pulls the
EN pin of REG1 low and switches off
the Vcc output voltage. As a result,
IC1, IC2 & IC4 all shut down, as does
the circuitry inside IC3 which gets its
power from the Vcc line via diode D1
and pin 10 (Vccci).
When the PC directs the USB protocol controller inside IC3 to resume
normal operation, its power manage-
1
ment circuitry pulls pin 28 high again.
REG1 then switches its output voltage
(Vcc) back on again, thus restoring
normal operation.
At this stage, you may be wondering
how the protocol controller, SIE, USB
transceiver and master clock oscillator inside IC3 are able to respond to
any directions from the PC after it has
entered suspend mode (ie, when REG1
has turned off the power). The secret
June 2011 41
S
M OTT O B © 2011 TOP
2
+
22
22
REG1
27k
13k
5819
IC3
PCM2902
+
D1
2.2
100nF
REG103
3
1
150nF
4
10nF
110
33k
15k
8.2k
10 F
IEC Code
1u0
470n
220n
150n
100n
10n
1n
820p
82p
47p
39p
22p
EIA Code
105
474
224
154
104
103
102
821
82
47
39
22
1 F
+
1 F
10 F
1 F
1 F
+
+
39pF
12.0MHz
X1
1M
47pF
+
1 F
pin. As a result, it’s only these sections
inside IC3 which “go to sleep” in suspend mode. Since these are the parts
of the PCM2902 which draw the most
current, they need to be shut down
when the device enters suspend mode.
The result of this power management system is that the total current
drawn by the USB Stereo Recording &
Playback Interface in suspend mode is
less than 220µA; much lower than the
60-70mA drawn in operating mode.
This means that it comfortably meets
the appropriate USB specification –
that all USB devices must be capable
of entering a suspend mode, where
they must draw no more than 2.5mA
from the USB power line.
+
1 F 1 F
EARTH WIRE CONNECTS TO SCREEN LUGS OF CON1 & CON3
Fig.3: follow this diagram to install the parts on the PCB, starting with REG1
& IC3. The parts with blue outlines mount on the case lid and are connected
via wire extension leads. Note that you can substitute 1μF monolithic
ceramic capacitors for the 1μF tantalums shown on the overlay.
here is that these sections inside the
PCM2902 are all powered from the
internal LDO which is fed with the
+5V applied to its Vbus pin (pin 3)
from pin 1 of CON9.
This voltage is available all the time,
as long as the device is connected
µF Value
1µF
0.47µF
0.22µF
0.15µF
0.1µF
0.01µF
0.001µF
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
+
1.5k
8.2k
1 F
100 F
820pF
1 F
IC4 MCP6024
15k
33k
100nF
100k
100k
DGND
(CON3)
100nF
82pF
1nF
100nF
1
1 F
1nF
15k
33k
R MIC IN
22pF
2
100k
100k
100k
1102 ©
1 107106111
160170
S
470nF
USB
TYPE B
1 F
220
1nF
AGND
(CON1)
470nF
100k
1
47pF
3
22pF
100k
L MIC IN
2
+
10 F
10k
10k
10k
10k
470nF
3
100k
470nF
22pF
47pF
1 F
82pF
82pF
100
100
100
100
10k
VR1
IN
+
100nF
10k
10k
10 F
22pF
10k
OUT
L
100k
10k
+
E
820pF
100
8.2k
IC2 MCP6024
100nF
10k
82p
10k
IC1 MCP6024
33k
820pF
100
8.2k
100k
220nF
10k
150k
L
150k
1nF
15k
R
Value
1µF
470nF
220nF
150nF
100nF
10nF
1nF
820pF
82pF
47pF
39pF
22pF
CON9
220k
E
100k
100k
R
220nF
100nF
S1
220k
MIC/LINE
E
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
SPDIF IN/OUT
CON5&6 TO HOST
820pF
CON7&8
2.7k
LINE OUTPUTS
CON2&4
2.7k
LINE INPUTS
to a PC host via a USB cable. Hence
these sections inside the PCM2902 are
always able to respond to commands
from the PC.
The rest of the circuitry inside IC3
(eg, the ADCs and DACs) is powered
from the Vcc line via D1 and the Vccci
Building it
All parts except for switch S1, po-
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
2
2
12
4
1
4
1
12
4
2
1
1
1
6
2
1
42 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
220kΩ
150kΩ
100kΩ
33kΩ
27kΩ
15kΩ
13kΩ
10kΩ
8.2kΩ
2.7kΩ
1.5kΩ
220Ω
110Ω
100Ω
22Ω
2.2Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red red yellow brown
brown green yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
orange orange orange brown
red violet orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown orange orange brown
brown black orange brown
grey red red brown
red violet red brown
brown green red brown
red red brown brown
brown brown brown brown
brown black brown brown
red red black brown
red red gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red red black orange brown
brown green black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
orange orange black red brown
red violet black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
grey red black brown brown
red violet black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
red red black black brown
brown brown black black brown
brown black black black brown
red red black gold brown
red red black silver brown
siliconchip.com.au
CON9
2
REG1
27k
13k
5819
+
D1
IC3
PCM2902
tentiometer VR1 (microphone gain)
and the two XLR mic input sockets
(CON1 & CON3) are mounted on a
double-sided PCB coded 07106111.
This is housed in a standard diecast
aluminium box measuring 119 x 94
x 57mm.
Fig.3 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Begin by checking the board for
any defects (especially around IC3 &
REG1), then test fit the RCA sockets
to make sure their mounting holes are
the correct sizes. Check also that the
corner cut-outs have been made.
Once that’s done, start the assembly
by installing the two SMDs (IC3 &
REG1). IC3 (PCM2902) comes in an
SSOP-28 package, while REG1 comes
in a 5-pin SOT223 package. As shown
in Figs.3 & 4, both devices are mounted
on the top of the board.
It’s important to use a soldering iron
with a very fine tip to install these
two devices. You also need some finegauge resin-cored solder and some
solder wick. A magnifying lamp or
magnifying glass will also be handy.
REG1’s pins are more widely spaced
than IC3, so install it first. Start by carefully positioning the device accurately
siliconchip.com.au
over the pads on the board, then lightly
tack solder one of its outside pins.
Adjust its position if necessary, then
solder the remaining pins. Note that
you also have to solder its heatsink
tab (opposite the pins) to the matching
rectangular pad on the PCB.
IC3 is a bit trickier to install but the
procedure is similar. Make sure it is
orientated correctly, with the dimple
in the “pin 1” corner at upper right,
then lightly “clamp” it into place using
a pair of self-closing tweezers. Check
that it is accurately positioned, then
place a tiny drop of solder on the tip
of your iron and just touch the tip to
the end of pin 1, so that the solder
flows down and “tacks” the pin to
the PCB pad.
Now do the same for pin 15 which
is diagonally opposite, at the lower
left corner of the device. These two
“tacked” pins will now hold the device
in place while you solder the remaining pins. Use a minimum of solder
for each pin but don’t worry if you
make a few inadvertent solder bridges
between the tracks or adjacent pins.
Once you’ve soldered all 28 pins,
use a magnifying glass to check for
1.5k
+
1 F
10 F
+
+
10 F
+
1 F
This view shows
the completed PCB. Note that
male XLR connectors are shown here but
ideally they should be female, in line with the usual
convention. Female XLRs can be fitted to the front panel and
the connections between pins 3 and 1 of each connector swapped over between
the connector’s rear lugs and the pads on the PCB. Instead of passing straight
down, short lengths of insulated hookup wire can be used to make these
connections, thereby ensuring there will be no accidental shorts.
REG103
22
22
+
2.2
8.2k
100nF
1nF
820pF
33k
15k
100nF
82pF
3
1
150nF
1 F
220
4
10nF
110
USB
TYPE B
12.0MHz
X1
1M
+
1 F
+
39pF 47pF
1 F 1 F
Fig.4: this enlarged section of the
PCB shows the mounting details
for REG1 & IC3. Use a fine-tipped
iron to solder their pins (see text).
solder bridges. If you do find any, they
are quite easy to remove using a narrow
strip (ie, 2mm wide) of desoldering
braid or solder wick.
The trick is to place the braid directly over the bridged pins (or tracks),
then press the braid firmly down onto
the pins using the tip of your iron for
a couple of seconds. The braid then
not only heats up the pins but also
“sucks up” and removes the solder
bridge as well.
In practice, you’ll find that this is
much easier to do than it sounds, especially if the PCB has a solder mask.
Once you’ve finished, check all the
pins again with a magnifying glass,
just to make sure. It will be harder to
remove any remaining problems later
when the adjacent parts are in place.
The “through-hole” parts can now
be installed on the PCB starting with
the single wire link and the resistors.
Check each resistor using a digital
multimeter before soldering it into
place on the PCB, then fit diode D1
June 2011 43
1
9.5
9.5
23.5
A
10
9.5
14.5
11.5
A
A
12.5
7
C
C
C
7
21
19.5
B
B
12.5
B
HOLE E: 6.5mm DIAM. HOLE F: 7.0mm DIAM.
HOLES A: 11.0mm DIAM. HOLES B: 12.0mm DIAM.
CL HOLES G: 24mm DIAM.
HOLES C: 3.5mm DIAM. HOLES D: 3.0mm DIAM.
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
29.7
49.25
21.5
The PCB is a
neat fit inside the case.
In practice though, it’s first attached
to the lid before the entire assembly
is dropped into place. Note our
comments on P43 about using
female XLR connectors.
D
D
E
28.5
17
F
4.5
D
17.5
9
D
CL
9
Drilling the case
13
8
25
31
G
G
D
12.25
D
9
D
D
9
(LID OF BOX BECOMES FRONT PANEL)
Fig.5: this is the drilling template for the case. Start each hole with a small pilot
drill to ensure accuracy and use a tapered reamer to enlarge the holes for the
RCA sockets (A & B). The two holes for the XLR sockets (G) can be made by
drilling a series of small holes around the inside diameters, knocking out the
centre pieces and filing for a smooth finish.
(watch its orientation) and the 14-pin
DIL sockets for IC1, IC2 & IC4.
Follow with the low-value ceramic
and MKT capacitors, then install the
electrolytic and tantalum capacitors.
The electrolytics and tantalums are all
polarised, so be sure to fit them with
correct orientation as shown on Fig.3.
Note that both the circuit and overlay depict the use of six 1μF tantalum
capacitors. Alternatively, you can
substitute 1μF monolithic ceramic
capacitors (see parts list).
The 12MHz crystal (X1) is next on
the list and this goes in just below IC3.
It should be fitted with a thin insulat44 Silicon Chip
and the USB type B socket. Make sure
that the ICs are correctly orientated.
ing washer underneath it, so that its
metal case cannot make contact with
any of the nearby copper tracks on the
top of the board (it’s a good idea to fit
this even if the PCB has a solder mask).
This insulating washer can be made
from a small rectangle of clear plastic
film, with two small holes punched
in it 5mm apart to allow X1’s pins to
pass through.
Alternatively, you can mount the
crystal so that its case is slightly proud
of the PCB.
The PCB assembly can now be completed by plugging in the three ICs and
fitting the three double-RCA sockets
If you build this project from a kit,
the box and its lid may be supplied
pre-drilled and the lid may also come
with a screen-printed front panel. If
not, then you’ll have to drill and cut
the holes in the case yourself.
Fig.5 shows the drilling details.
Note that holes “B” in the rear panel
for the “upper” RCA sockets are 12mm
diameter, while holes “A” for the
“lower” sockets are 11mm diameter.
The reason for this difference is that
the larger “B” holes allow easier entry
of the lid/PCB assembly into the box,
during final assembly.
Having drilled, cut and de-burred
all of the holes, the next step is to
fit the front panel to give the unit a
professional finish. Fig.6 shows the
front-panel artwork and you can either copy this or download the panel
in PDF format from the SILICON CHIP
website and print it out. The panel can
then be laminated and attached to the
lid using double-sided tape.
Once it’s in position, cut out the
holes using a sharp hobby knife.
Final assembly
Now for the final assembly. The first
step is to fit switch S1, potentiometer VR1 and the two XLR sockets to
siliconchip.com.au
LINE
OUTPUTS
LINE
INPUTS
USB TO
HOST
S/PDIF IN
S/PDIF OUT
MICS
RECORDING
SOURCE
SELECT
LINE
MICROPHONE
GAIN
LEFT MIC INPUT
USB STEREO RECORDING/
PLAYBACK INTERFACE
RIGHT MIC INPUT
SILICON
CHIP
Fig.6: this full-size front panel artwork can be copied or you can download it in
PDF format from the SILICON CHIP website and print it out.
siliconchip.com.au
M3 x 20mm SCREWS ATTACH 10mm
SPACERS TO LID, ALSO PASS THROUGH
THESE SPACERS TO ATTACH 25mm SPACERS
BOX LID
(FRONT PANEL)
(VR1)
(S1)
S1
the lid assembly. Cut the pot shaft to
about 10mm long before fastening it
in position.
The switch and pot are secured using the supplied nuts, while the XLR
sockets are each held in place using a
two M3 x 10mm machine screws, star
lockwashers and nuts.
The next step is to fit extension
leads to the terminals of both S1 &
VR1. These leads are run using 0.7mm
tinned copper wire and should be
about 25mm long for S1 and about
35mm long for VR1. That done, sleeve
the extension wires with either 1.5mm
heatshrink tubing or 2mm varnished
cambric tubing. The sleeves for the
leads from S1 should be about 18mm
long, while those for VR1’s leads
should be about 28mm long.
The three main connection spigots
on the rear of XLR sockets CON1 &
CON3 are fitted with similar extension
leads. These need to be only about
12mm long, as the sockets extend
downwards much further than the
switch and pot terminals. They also
don’t need any insulating sleeves,
as there will be only about 4mm free
above the PCB when it is subsequently
mounted on the lid.
Fig.7 shows how the assembly goes
together. Before mounting the board
in place, you need to fit four 35mmlong spacers to the holes near the
corners of the lid. These spacers are
10mm
SPACERS
(CON3)
25mm
SPACERS
SLEEVES ON POT
& SWITCH WIRES
(CON9)
CON5
AND
CON6
(PCB)
M3 x 6mm SCREWS ATTACH
PCB TO 25mm SPACERS
NOTE: SMALL COMPONENTS
ON PCB OMITTED FOR CLARITY
Fig.7: here’s how the assembly fits inside the case. Six wire extensions are
required for VR1, six for switch S1 and three each for the XLR sockets.
June 2011 45
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, code
07106111, 109 x 84mm
1 diecast metal box, 119 x 94 x
57mm (Jaycar HB-5064)
1 mini DPDT panel-mount toggle
switch (S1)
1 10kΩ 16mm dual pot. (VR1)
1 knob to suit
2 female XLR connectors, panelmount (Jaycar PP-1054, Altronics P 0804)
1 12.000MHz crystal, HC49/4H
case (X1)
3 dual RCA sockets, PCB-mount
(Jaycar PS-0280, Altronics P
0212)
1 type-B USB socket, PC-mount
(Jaycar PS-0920, Altronics P
1304)
3 14-pin DIL IC sockets
4 M3 x 25mm tapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 10mm tapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 20mm machine screws,
Phillips head
made up using M3 x 25mm and M3
x 10mm tapped metal spacers which
are stacked together and secured using
M3 x 20mm machine screws.
As shown, the screws go through
the front panel and initially secure
the 10mm spacers in place. The 25mm
spacers are then wound on over the
protruding ends of the screws.
Once the spacers are in position,
you’re ready to attach the PCB to
the lid. It will be necessary to dress
4 M3 x 10mm machine screws,
Phillips head
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
Phillips head
4 M3 hex nuts
4 M3 star lockwashers
3 4G x 9mm self-tapping screws
1 600mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
1 330mm length of 1.5mm
heatshrink tubing
1 200mm length of insulated
hook-up wire
Semiconductors
3 MCP6024-I/P quad op amps (IC1,
IC2, IC4) (from Microchip Direct)
1 PCM2902 stereo audio CODEC
(IC3) (from RS Components)
1 REG103GA-A adjustable
voltage regulator (REG1)
1 1N5819 Schottky diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V RB electrolytic
2 10µF 16V RB electrolytic
the leads from S1, VR1 and the XLR
sockets so that their ends align with
their matching holes in the PCB. It also
helps if the various leads have their
ends trimmed to staggered lengths,
so that they can be guided through in
sequence.
A pair of long-nose pliers can be
used to help guide the leads through
their respective holes.
If this proves too awkward, remove
S1 and potentiometer VR1 from the lid,
2 10µF 16V tantalum
6 1µF 25V monolithic ceramic or
tantalum
6 1µF MKT polycarbonate
4 470nF MKT polycarbonate
2 220nF MKT polycarbonate
1 150nF MKT polycarbonate
7 100nF MKT polycarbonate
1 10nF MKT or greencap
4 1nF 50V NPO ceramic
4 820pF 50V NPO ceramic
4 82pF 50V NPO ceramic
3 47pF 50V NPO ceramic
1 39pF 50V NPO ceramic
4 22pF 50V NPO ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1MΩ
4 8.2kΩ
2 220kΩ
2 2.7kΩ
2 150kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
12 100kΩ
1 220Ω
4 33kΩ
1 110Ω
1 27kΩ
6 100Ω
4 15kΩ
2 22Ω
1 13kΩ
1 2.2Ω
12 10kΩ
then slip their leads down through the
PCB. The lid can then be introduced
to the PCB, at the same time guiding
the six XLR socket leads through their
holes. Once it’s in position, secure the
board using four M3 x 6mm machine
screws, then slip the switch and pot
back up through their mounting holes
and do up their nuts.
Finally, the leads from the XLR
sockets, the pot and the switch can be
soldered to the PCB pads and trimmed
to length.
Earth lead
Fig.8: the USB Audio CODEC should become the default device when the USB
Stereo Recording & Playback Interface is plugged in (Windows XP dialog boxes).
46 Silicon Chip
There’s just one more wiring step to
complete the front panel/PCB assembly. This is to fit an insulated “earthing” lead which connects from the PCB
earth copper to the body/screen lugs of
the XLR connectors. This in turn connects the PCB earth to the metal case
when it’s all later screwed together.
Fig.3 shows how to install this lead.
It’s run using insulated hook-up wire
and is connected to the PCB earth copper just to the right of CON9. It then
runs across the board to the screen
lug of CON3 and then to the screen
lug of CON1.
That done, the PCB/front panel assembly can be completed by fitting
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: here’s how the interface appears
in the “Sound” dialog box (launched
via Control Panel) under Windows 7.
Fig.10: the USB Audio CODEC should
also appear in Device Manager under
“Sound, video and game controllers”.
the mic gain pot (VR1) with its control
knob.
The final step in building the project
is to slip the PCB/front panel assembly
down into the box. This is done by
tilting it at an angle so that the RCA
connectors can enter their clearance
holes in the back of the box. This then
allows you to swing down the front of
the assembly and lower it all the way
into the box.
That done, fasten the lid to the box
using the four M4 countersink-head
screws supplied and use three 4G x
9mm self-tapping screws to secure
the three dual RCA sockets to the rear
of the case. These self-tapping screws
pass through the “C” holes on the rear
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.11: this scope grab compares the S/PDIF digital audio output from the
interface (yellow trace) with the analog audio output waveform (blue trace),
when a WAV file is being played back. The timebase here has been slowed
down to show the audio waveform clearly.
Fig.12: this second scope grab shows the same S/PDIF digital output (yellow)
and the analog audio output (blue) but with a much faster timebase speed so
you can see the S/PDIF waveform. At this speed the analog waveform appears
to be an almost flat horizontal line.
panel and ensure that the RCA sockets
are not pushed back inside the case
when the cables are attached.
Don’t over-tighten these screws,
otherwise you’ll strip the holes in the
plastic bodies of the RCA sockets.
Installation & testing
Testing involves little more than
connecting the unit to a spare USB port
on a PC running Windows XP (Service
Pack 3), Windows Vista or Windows 7.
Alternatively, you can connect it to a
spare downstream port on an external
USB hub that’s connected to the PC.
After a few seconds, you should hear
a greeting from the PC’s sound system
to indicate that the operating system
has recognised that a new Plug and
Play USB device has been connected.
It then shows pop-ups from the System
Tray as it identifies the device and automatically installs the standard USB
audio drivers for it.
The next step is to check that this
has all taken place correctly. In Windows XP, click the Windows Start
button, launch the Control Panel and
double-click on “Sounds and Audio
Devices”. This should bring up the
Sounds and Audio Devices Properties
dialog. If you then click on the “Audio”
tab, you should see “USB Audio CODEC” listed in the drop-down device
selection lists for both Sound Playback
and Sound Recording (Fig.8). This
June 2011 47
Fig.13: Audacity is an excellent freeware program for recording and editing audio files, with versions available for
Windows, Apple Macs and Linux systems (from audacity.sourceforge.net).
should also be the case if you click on
the “Voice” tab.
Now click on the “Hardware” tab
and select “USB Audio Device”. You
should see the following information
in the Device Properties area:
Manufacturer: (Generic USB Audio)
Location: Location 0 (USB Audio CODEC)
Device Status: This device is working
properly.
If you are using Windows 7, launch
the Control Panel and double-click
on the “Sounds” icon. This brings
up the dialog box shown in Fig.9 and
you should see that the “USB Audio
CODEC” has been installed as the
default device.
You can also check the device has
been correctly installed in Device
Manager. Launch Device Manager
from Control Panel, then expand the
“Sound, video and game controllers”
entry and check that “USB Audio
CODEC” is listed – see Fig.10. This
applies to both Windows XP and
Windows 7 (and Vista).
lists under both the Audio and Voice
tabs of the Sounds and Audio Devices
Properties dialog (Windows XP). You
can also use the Volume tab to adjust
the replay volume and to get Windows
to provide a volume control icon in the
system tray at the end of the taskbar.
Your new USB Stereo Recorder &
Playback Interface will now be the
default device on your PC for both
audio recording and playback. And
because it’s fully compatible with all
the standard audio drivers built into
Windows XP/SP3 and later operating
systems, you’ll be able to use it with
virtually any of the popular audio
recording, editing and playback applications.
Even if you don’t have such a suita-
Using it
Using the unit with your PC for audio recording and playback is straightforward. The first step is to select it as
the “Default device” in the drop-down
48 Silicon Chip
Fig.14: you can exit the VIA HD Audio
Deck applet by right-clicking its icon
in the System Tray.
ble application installed on your PC at
present, there are quite a few available
for free downloading on the web. One
I can recommend is Audacity which
can be downloaded from the Audacity website at audacity.sourceforge.
net The current version for Windows
XP/SP3 is V1.2.6 but there’s also a
beta V1.3.13 that’s described as “the
best version for Windows 7 and Vista”.
There are also versions for Apple Macs
and Linux systems.
Via shutdown error
Finally, note that with this device
connected, you may get a shut-down
error on machines with Via sound
systems which automatically launch
the Via Audio HD Deck applet. You
can prevent this by closing this applet
before shutting down – just right-click
the Via HD Audio Deck icon in the
System Tray and click “Exit” (Fig.14).
Another option is to prevent the Via
HD Audio Deck applet from automatically starting when the PC is booted.
That’s done by clicking Start, typing
in msconfig, selecting the Startup tab
and clearing the relevant check box. Or
you can simply ignore the shut-down
error and click OK to close the applet
SC
and force a shut-down.
siliconchip.com.au
Financial Year End
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JUNE 2011
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Suited to small surveillance installations in the
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QV-3024 WAS $599.00
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CS-2475 $69.95
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CS-2478 $149.00
Sold as a Pair
• Mains powered
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$
GE-4134
99
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• Battery voltage: 3.0VDC (NOTE: will
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14
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Refer: Silicon Chip March 2011
This is an upgraded version of the original universal
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29 95
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• Built-in rechargeable battery
• Dimensions: 88(L) x
58(W) x 17(D)mm
QM-3824 WAS $129.00
Using the Texas Instruments Davinci DSP
and Techwell H.264 codecs, a real-time
operating system and combining the most
advanced technology, such as video and audio
encoding/decoding, hard disk recording and multistream networking. Featuring both DVR and digital
video server capabilities, you can store or archive to
DVD/CD, NFS/SAN or external USB mass storage
device. Use either stand-alone or to build a powerful
surveillance network. Suitable for banks,
telecommunication, transportation, factories,
warehouse etc.
FROM
Available in two models:
SAVE 200
$
QV-3044 WAS $1,499.00
NOW $1,299.00 SAVE $200.00
16-Ch Professional H.264 DVR with
1TB HDD
QV-3045 WAS $1,999.00
NOW $1,799.00 SAVE $200.00
HANDHELD INSPECTION CAMERAS
Inspection Camera with 2.4" LCD
With a camera diameter of only 9mm, detailed
inspection of some very tight spots is possible. Its
comfortable grip and forward facing controls make
it easy to use. The CMOS colour camera has a 1
metre reach and the 2.4" colour LCD screen is
positioned for easy viewing. Requires 4 x AA
batteries.
• Adjustable LCD brightness
• Resolution: 480 x 234 pixels
• Attachments: Mirror, hook & pick-up magnet
QC-8710
Also available:
2m
Gooseneck
Extension
Shaft
QC-8702 $99
(suits QC-8710
& QC-8700)
169 00
$
2
359 00
$
SAVE $40 00
The Digitech handheld micro inspection camera allows
you to perform a detailed visual inspection in hard to
reach areas. Its pistol grip design and detachable
2.4GHz monitor make it easy to
locate and diagnose the
unreachable. Requires
4 x AA Batteries.
229 00
$
Monitor:
• LCD Screen Type: 2.5" TFT-LCD
• AV output for recording
• Dimensions: 100(W) x 70(D) x 30(H)mm
QC-8700
Better, More Technical
229 00
$
SAVE $70 00
Wide Dynamic Range CCD Camera
Inspection Camera with Detachable Monitor
Camera:
• Image sensor:
CMOS
• Resolution: 704 x 576 pixels
• Dimensions: 186(W) x 41(H) x
145(D)mm (Excluding gooseneck)
A high resolution
Sony® ExView
HAD CCDequipped camera
to dramatically
improve low light
performance. Ideal
for use with infrared
illuminators and features
high speed electronic shutter, back
light compensation and 3 stage
automatic gain control.
SAVE $20 00
• Progressive scan
CMOS
• Compression
H.264/MPEG4/JPEG
• Dimensions: 99(W) x
97(L) x 45(H)mm
QC-8625 WAS $399.00
00
SAVE $50 00
109 00
$
Designed to take advantage of power over Ethernet
to reduce installation costs and setup time. This
camera connects straight to your existing network
for complete control. Access the camera through a
web interface by hitting the IP address of the
device and logging in. The web interface allows you
to control the camera around 3-axis, zoom, adjust
visual settings, record, take snapshots and setup
scheduled recording.
1299 00
199 00
$
• Sensor resolution (H x V pixels): 752 x 582
• Resolution (Horizontal TVL): 550
• Power: 24VAC/12VDC
QC-8622 WAS $299.00
NETWORK CONNECT VANDAL PROOF
MINI DOME CAMERA 2MP
$
High resolution day/night
camera with
Sony® sensor,
colour by day,
black and white
by night.
Extremely high
performance in
low light levels.
Perfect for use with infrared
illuminators.
High Resolution ExView
Colour CCD
2.8" TFT LCD MONITOR & AV RECORDER
PROFESSIONAL H.264 DVR RECORDERS
High Resolution Day / Night Colour CCD
• Flickerless
• Sensor: 1/3" Sony® Hi-Res SuperHAD CCD
• Resolution (Horizontal TVL): 550
• Power requirements: 24VAC/12VDC
QC-8621 WAS $249.00
Note: Carried in
limited quantities in
major stores only,
call before driving
across town.
QC-8601
WAS $499.00
Note: Carried in limited
quantities in major stores
only, call before driving across town.
QC-8602 WAS $1099.00
8-Ch Professional H.264
DVR with 500GB HDD
SAVINGS ON PROFESSIONAL CCD CAMERAS
Hikvision 3D PTZ Camera
& DVR Control Keyboard
Hikvision Outdoor 22x PTZ Camera
All Savings are based on Original RRP
Limited stock on sale items.
This high grade camera is based around the Sony®
SS2 vertical double-density wide dynamic range
CCD system. It provides a high quality
picture in conditions
which would
render most
other cameras
useless. See
website for
complete
specifications.
• Low smear
00
$
• High anti-blooming
• High signal to noise ratio
SAVE $50 00
• Mechanical IR cut filter
• 470 Horizontal TV lines
• Dimensions: 135(L) x 65(W) x 50(H)mm
QC-3289 WAS $449.00
399
MINI DVR KIT WITH BUTTON-HOLE
CAMERA
Capture meetings,
conferences or lectures with
this high definition video and
audio mini DVR kit. Store up
to 32GB on an SD card, then
allow you to view the video
on the 2" TFT LCD screen
with different buttonhole
options so it's completely
covert and discreet. Includes
a Li-ion rechargeable battery,
charger, AV leads, USB cable and dummy buttons
for disguising the camera.
229
00
$
• Approx 10 hours of video
• 128MB flash memory
$
SAVE 20 00
• Camera resolution: 420TV lines
• Windows XP, Vista, 7 compatible
• Dimensions: DVR: 65(W) x 54(H) x 14(D)mm
Camera: 22(W) x 34(H) x 15(D)mm
QC-8006 WAS $249.00
To order call 1800 022 888
Tools For The Trade
46W GOOT 240V SOLDERING IRON
NEW TOOLS FOR THE TRADE
High quality Japanese made soldering iron with
exceptional heat recovery. The ceramic heater is
automatically controlled by the heating load of the
tip. With its high insulation and low current leakage,
soldering of precision flat ICs and CMOS is safe.
The heater on/off control uses a zero-volt switch
circuit which reduces noise.
Spot Face Cutter for Strip Boards
• Tip temperature is set at 320°C
• The power lead is made from flexible silicone
rubber
• The handle
incorporates a ribbed
rubber piece for superior grip
• Electricity Safety Approval
Number SAITE20185
95
$
TS-1430
Spiral Drive Drill/Driver
Designed to neatly remove copper track on strip type
prototyping boards. Insert the tool in the pre-drilled hole
and rotate it until the track is removed entirely. Easy to
use and efficient.
Spiral driven drill/driver is ideal for very
fine work. Push the handle to rotate
the collet slowly. Add drill bit or
screwdriver bit. Comes with 2 pin vice
collects and 3 small drill bits.
• Length: 110mm
• Handle measures:
60(L) x 17(W) x 17(D)mm
TD-2461
• Measures: 180(L) x 15(Dia)mm
overall (uncompressed)
TD-2089
8
$ 95
16 95
$
Stainless Steel Tweezer Set - ESD safe
Set of 3 tweezers, duckbill head, angle fine and
straight superfine. ESD coating to reduce
static discharge.
79
• Measures: Angled & duckbill
120mm, superfine 135mm
TH-1760
Spare tips available:
0.5mm Tip (as supplied with iron) TS-1432 $19.95
0.3mm Tip
TS-1434 $19.95
0.3mm Chisel Tip
TS-1436 $19.95
Over 500 pages
NEW exciting products
19 95
$
High Quality Iron
Grab a copy now!
MR16 HALOGEN GLOBES
PRO SOUND LEVEL METER
WITH CALIBRATOR
Low voltage, high brightness halogen lights used
as general lighting around the house or shops,
automotive and camping use.
Suitable where accuracy, repeatability and
validation is required. Ideal for vehicle
noise testing, race scrutineering,
traffic/aircraft noise or any evidencebased noise testing. Conforms to IEC
61672-1 Class 2 for sound level
meters. Calibrator included.
Voltage Angle Cat no.
12V
12V
12V
12V
24V
30o
38o
12o
38o
38o
SL-2733
SL-2730
SL-2731
SL-2732
SL-2745
Was
Now Save
$7.45
$7.45
$7.45
$7.45
$8.95
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$2.95
$4.50
$4.50
$4.50
$4.50
$6.00
BUY BULK AND SAVE
• Backlit LCD
• Analogue outputs
• Dimensions: 278(L) x
76(W) x 50(D)mm
$
QM-1592
WAS $399.00
Buy 5 for $10
SAVE 100
Ideal for audio enthusiasts
designing their own crossovers.
Features large digits and 30minute auto power off. Supplied
with Carry case and K-type probe
with curly cord. See website for
full specifications.
All the tools you need for cutting, stripping and
crimping F-connectors for coax cable installations.
MICRO ENGRAVER
Kit includes:
• Coax cable
stripper
• Compression
crimp tool
• Heavy duty
cable cutter
• 10 x F-59
plugs
• Nylon storage
case: 152(W) x
220(H) x 45(D)mm
TH-1804 WAS $79.95
39 95
$
• Display:
2000 count
SAVE $5 00
• Transistor Test
• Dimensions:
194(H) x 91(W) x 44(D)mm
QM-1324 WAS $44.95
This screwdriver has a rotary magazine that stores
the bits. When a different bit is required, rotate the
magazine, pump the reloading action and the new
bit is inserted into the ratchet head ready to go. The
handle stores 4 reserve bits and 8 other bits are
included, but you can add any 4mm
hex drive bit if needed.
F-CONNECTOR TOOL SET
00
INDUCTANCE /CAPACITANCE /
FREQUENCY DMM
10-IN-1 ROTARY
PUMP-ACTION SCREWDRIVER
• PH: 00, 0, 1, 2
• Slotted: 1.5, 2, 3
• Torx: T5, T6, T8, T10
• Dimensions: 168(L) x
26(Dia)mm
TD-2108
Save over 50%
299 00
$
2011 Engineering
Catalogue Out Now!
9
$ 95
DEAL
Buy 2 for $15 SAVE $4.90
Engrave your valuables for security or insurance.
The tiny diamond coated tip spins at 10,000 RPM
so you can personalise tools, sporting gear, toys,
security ID on valuables etc. Engraves glass,
ceramics, metals and plastics. Batteries and case
included. Tip is replaceable.
39
$
95
SAVE $40 00
• Size: 160(L) x 15(Dia)mm
TD-2468
19 95
$
Replacement tip sold separately
TD-2469 $6.95
HANDY SERVICE AIDS
Isopropyl Alcohol
Super Glue Debonder
Uses as a head cleaner,
surface cleaning and prep,
contact cleaning, stain
removal in the laundry etc.
Also a medical-grade surface
disinfectant. Dries quickly
and is relatively non-toxic.
50% concentration.
A choice of two sizes:
Super glue is tenacious in
sticking skin together, and
has been exploited as an
alternative to surgical
sutures. Debonder will
quickly and painlessly
separate skin stuck with
super glue.
NA-1062 WAS $2.50
NOW $1.50 SAVE $1.00
• 20ml bottle with
applicator
NA-1501
20ml Spray
200ml Bottle
NA-1064 WAS $6.95
NOW $4.95 SAVE $2.00
FROM
1
$ 50
Cordon off hazardous areas or create
an unmistakable marker with this
heavy duty PVC tape. The
vivid colouring will
draw anyone's
attention to the
barrier.
• 33m roll
1
$ 95
DEAL
www.jaycar.com.au
Heavy-duty PVC Tape
Buy 2 for $3
DEAL
Buy 2 for $15
Two colours available:
Red/White NM-2864
WAS $15.95 NOW $9.95 SAVE $6.00
Yellow/Black NM-2866
WAS $15.95 NOW $9.95 SAVE $6.00
DeoxIT ProGold Contact Cleaner &
Rejuvenator - Pen Style
This product will not only clean, but it will
help restore your equipment to its original
condition, and improve its performance.
NS-1430
19 95
$
Also available
DeoxIT Contact Cleaner &
Rejuvenator Aerosol NS-1434 $24.95
DeoxIT Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator
Solution Kit NS-1436 $24.95
Limited stock on sale items.
All Savings are based on Original RRP
3
Sight & Sound
MUSIC CENTRES
Digital CD/USB/SD Encoding
Music Box WITH Clock & AM/FM Radio
3 Speed Turntable with
Speakers & Audio Output
Listen to vinyl collections directly from the unit and
its built-in speakers or use the line level output to
listen on an external amplifier. Features a 3.5mm
headphone jack for personal listening with
adjustable bass control. Great for the family
home or apartment.
79 00
$
• 33/45/78 RPM
• Stereo amplifier
• Automatic stop
• 45 RPM adaptor
• Mains powered
• Dimensions: 35(L) x
31(D) x 13(H)mm
GE-4136
The music box allows you to record your CD collection straight
to SD card or memory stick. Records directly from USB drive to
SD card or vice versa. This modern & user friendly design
features a crystal clear AM/FM digital tuner, blue back light LCD,
alarm clock with sleep & snooze function. Wake up to your
choice of radio, buzzer, CD or favourite songs stored on SD card
or memory stick. Features battery back up, protects your
settings in case of a power failure.
• CD / CD-R, RW / MP3-CD playback
• Repeat one / All / Program / Random play
• Store up to 40 stations
• Built-in amplifier and
stereo speakers
• AUX in & Headphone output
• Requires 2 x AAA batteries
• Dimensions: 250(W) x
00
$
204(D) x 85(H)mm
GE-4138
USB Cassette Deck
with PC Encoder
Record cassette tracks to your
computer via USB or play back through
the built-in 5W speaker. You can also
run the line level outputs to an external
amplifier and use it as a component
cassette deck.
• Dimensions: 178(L) x
72(H) x 178(W)mm
GE-4054 WAS $79.95
59 95
$
SAVE $20 00
99
5.8GHZ WIRELESS AV SENDER
5" SPEAKERS WITH USB
Send audio and video signals right
round the house from practically any
video source - DVD, VHS, set-top
box, cable TV etc. Operating on the
5.8GHz band keeps it free from
interference on the 2.4GHz
band and an external omnidirectional antenna provides
a transmission range of up
to 100 metres.
00
$
AR-1880
WAS $89.00
The built-in amp provides
30WRMS per channel.
Input is either via linelevel RCA or USB, so it
will accept memory
sticks or any other USB
device. Add an MP3
player for a complete
digital music system. It
also has bass, treble,
volume and MP3 track
controls on the back
panel. Perfect for your
next patio party.
Extra receiver available AR-1881
• Mounting brackets
included
• Dimensions: 180(W) x
235(H) x 180(D)mm
CS-2437
74
SAVE $15 00
WAS $64.95 NOW $39.95 SAVE $25.00
PLASMA/LED/LCD FULL MOTION
WALL BRACKET
109 00
• Accommodates TVs from 23 to 37" up to 45kg.
CW-2829
COMMUTER SPECIAL
Portable DAB+/FM Radio with Earphones
An ultra-compact DAB+ radio that is small enough
to fit in a pocket. Never miss your favourite radio
stations while on the go. Provides
excellent reception and crystal clear
digital sound. Runs on 2 x AAA
batteries (not included), it is also
equipped with a standard FM radio.
99
$
00
Note: DAB+ not available in all areas.
AR-1754
Better, More Technical
4
Active VGA + Audio to HDMI
Converter
This converter box
takes the VGA output +
stereo audio signal from
your PC, and converts
them to now common
HDMI format whilst
maintaining full high-definition
resolution. Mains adaptor included.
• Dimensions: 90(L) x 68(W) x
25(H)mm
AC-1609 WAS $129.00
Also available:
199 00
$
Sold as a Pair
Provides full
motion off the
wall. The 620mm
extension arm
gives a range of
rotation of 180°
and tilt of -12°, so
it is ideal for
mounting in the corner
of a room, or mounting
the TV in an otherwise awkward
and unviewable position. Also
allows for ±2° lateral roll to ensure the $
TV is perfectly level after installation.
• Earphones included
• Dimensions: 68(L) x
38(W) x 21(H)mm
VIDEO/AUDIO CONVERSION DEVICES
Ideal for enhancing fringe mobile phone
reception or 3G Internet performance for a
farm or a boat. It provides a very handy 7dBi
of gain in any direction. Made from fibreglass
and supported by an aluminium support
piece and two sturdy clamps.
• Frequency range:800/900/1800/1900/2100MHz
• Overall antenna length 1.05m approx.
AR-3313
HDMI to VGA/Component and LR
Analogue Audio Converter
AC-1605 WAS $149.00 NOW $129.00 SAVE $20.00
Converts digital audio from either
coax or Toslink inputs and
outputs to Toslink or coax. It
has a built-in amplification
feature: it can serve as a
repeater of audio signals
and extend (double) the
transmitting distance.
49 95
$
• Dimension: 42(W) x
40(D) x 22(H)mm
AC-1601 WAS $59.95
SAVE $10 00
Digital to Analogue Audio Converter
Converts your digital audio from either a coax or
optical source to a standard analogue left and right
RCA output. Useful for connecting DVD/Blu-Ray
players to displays or audio equipment that
have a no digital audio input.
99 00
$
• Dimensions: 42(W) x
40.5(D) x 22(H)mm
$
AC-1603
WAS $69.95
59 95
High Quality Lightweight
Stereo Headphones
Ultra-lightweight stereo
headphones that provide
outstanding performance
and comfort. Featuring
high output drivers, they
produce crystal clear sound
with crisp highs and smooth bass
response. Soft leatherette swivel ear
pads, adjustable headset and 1.2m lead.
AA-2061
All Savings are based on Original RRP
Also available:
SAVE $10 00
Analogue to Digital Audio Converter
AC-1611 WAS $79.95 NOW $59.95 SAVE $20.00
BLACK MAINS EXTENSION LEAD
Perfect for stage, lighting, DJ or other applications
where the inconspicuousness of a black extension
lead is required. Rated to 10A max.
24 95
$
Buy both for $110 Save $13.95
Limited stock on sale items.
SAVE $30 00
Digital Toslink/Coax Audio Converter
OMNI-DIRECTIONAL MAST
ANTENNA - 3G CELLULAR
DEAL
99 00
$
2m PS-4152 $5.95
5m PS-4155 $9.95
10m PS-4157 $14.95
To order call 1800 022 888
Power
MONITOR POWER & SAVE
Remote Controlled 240V Mains Outlets
Wireless 3-Outlet Mains Power Meter
Simply plug an
appliance into each
sender unit, enter
local electricity price
and monitor the
usage on the LCD
receiver unit. Also
monitors the cumulative usage via the memory as well as
the greenhouse gas emissions.
Switch any mains appliance rated up to 10A on
or off remotely. Control up to three separate
devices and switch them individually. Includes 3
mains outlets and 1 remote control.
• Transmission range: 30m
• Frequency: 433.92MHz
• Remote size: 100(L) x 35(W) x 20(H)mm
MS-6140
WAS $39.95
69 95
$
• Transmission range: 30m
• Receiver requires 3 x AA batteries
SAVE $30 00
• Clock and alarm function
• Dimensions: Sender: 58(W) x 125(H) x 48mm
Receiver: 100(W) x 130(H) x 36(D)mm
MS-6116 WAS $99.95
150W LAPTOP POWER SUPPLY 15-24VDC
Specifically
$
designed
for use
with laptop
computers.
Features short
circuit and overload
protection, an LED
power indicator and USB output
for charging USB devices. Comes with
9 different DC adaptors that suit most
laptop computers on the market.
119 00
• Input voltage: 100-240VAC 50/60Hz
• 7 Selectable DC voltages
• Dimensions: 63(W) x 180(D) x 40(H)mm
MP-3471
29 95
$
SAVE $10 00
3-STAGE 48V 9A BATTERY CHARGER
SOLAR RECHARGEABLE LED SPOTLIGHT
RECHARGEABLE 35W HID SPOTLIGHT
Compact and lightweight. Suitable for golf buggies,
electric wheelchairs or similar
applications. It monitors and
manages your charging
with three different
stages and will
MASSIVE
maintain the
optimum charge
SAVINGS!!!
level. Cables included.
Perfect for your car, boat, workshop,
camping or fishing trip. It has a
dual position swivel handle for
maximum versatility and a
high tech solar panel so
it can be charged at all
times.
Ideally suited to search and rescue, boating,
professional shooters, security or other high-power
applications. Housed in a tough weather-resistant
ABS housing with shoulder strap for extended use.
The built-in rechargeable battery
gives about 50 minutes
of continuous use and
it recharges either
from the mains
plugpack or a car
cigarette lighter socket.
• Short circuit, output current,
00
$
polarity and thermal protection
• LED charge status indication
SAVE $100 00
• Digital Charge Display
• Dimensions: 298(D) x 112(W) x 60(H)mm
MB-3628 WAS $499.00
399
4 WAY POWERBOARD WITH FILTER /
SURGE AND OVERLOAD PROTECTION
Guard your expensive HiFi, TV, or VCR etc. against
damage. This powerboard offers 4 outlets, all
filtered and surge protected. Black in colour.
• 4 Surge and Spike protected mains outlets
• 10 amp resettable overload circuit breaker
• Power on indicator in switch
• Approval Number : N17298
• Cable length: 1 metre
MS-4057
14
$
95
LED LIGHT LANTERN WITH
SOLAR CHARGER PSU ADAPTOR
A super bright white LED lamp with an
integrated compass. Can be charged via
included mains power, car charger or by the
unit's 2.5W solar panel.
• Included 2.5Ah/6V
battery
• Lamp measures:
250(H) x108(Dia)mm
ST-3128 WAS $99.95
SAVE 40
39 95
$
• Output: 3300 lumens
• Power: 35W
• Dimensions: 300(L) x 210(Dia)mm
ST-3369 WAS $149.00
Deep-cycle gel performance for solar installations
and other alternative energy systems.
• Capacity: 200Ah (20hr. rate)
• Initial charge current: 30A
• Cycle voltage: 14.4 - 15V
• Standby voltage:
13.5 - 13.8V
• Dimensions: 523(L) x
239(W) x 223(H)mm
• Weight: 62kg
SB-1697
00
CREE® XP-G HIGH POWER LED
129 00
$
SAVE $20 00
Spare globe available:
ST-3363 WAS $39.95 NOW $29.95 SAVE $10.00
12V 200AH DEEP CYCLE GEL BATTERY
260 LUMEN RECHARGEABLE
CREE® LED TORCH
This torch outputs 260 lumens of white light from a
battery that is slightly larger than a single AA. Great
for every day activities and more demanding
uses such as hiking or
caving adventures.
69
799 00
$
Note: Not stocked in all stores but can be ordered.
Call your nearest store for details.
RECREATIONAL SOLAR KITS
Clean renewable energy wherever you go. Convert
your 4WD or caravan to generate sufficient power to
operate several appliances - 12V camping essentials
and luxuries etc. Just add a battery for a selfsustained setup. Two versions to choose from.
80W Standard Package
59 95
$
$
• 140 Lumens
• Solar cell, car cigarette
lighter and mains
chargers included
• Detachable weatherproof
solar station
• Size approx: 175(L) x
120(W) x 150(H)mm
ST-3312
• 1 x 80W monocrystalline solar panel ZM-9097
• 1 x 12V 6A charge controller MP-3128
• 2 x female PV connector PS-5100
$
• 2 x male PV connector PP-5102
ZM-9300 WAS $450.00
The XP-G series offers world leading lumen output
and efficiency. They can deliver over 150 lumens for
cool white, and over 110 lumens for warm white. A
fantastic solution to lighting where limited power is
available. With a life expectancy of over 50,000
hours, and you have a lighting
solution that is truly hard to
beat. Lens sold separately.
425
• Burn time: 5 hrs
95
$
• Includes one
rechargeable 3.7V 2200mAh Li-ion battery
• Mains charger included
• Dimensions: 205(H) x 45(W)mm
ST-3453
160W Advanced Package
• 2 x 80W monocrystalline solar panel ZM-9097
• 1 x 12V 20A charge controller MP-3126
• 3 x female PV connector PS-5100
• 3 x male PV connector PP-5102
• 1 x solar panel Y-lead 2 socket to 1 plug PS-5110
• 1 x solar panel Y-lead 2 plug to 1 socket PS-5112
ZM-9302 WAS $900.00
850 00
$
00
SAVE $25 00
SAVE $50 00
White
ZD-0445 $17.95
Warm White ZD-0447 $19.95
stock on
sale items.
Limited
stock
on sale items.
www.jaycar.com.au Limited
5
Automotive
UNIVERSAL USB MOBILE
PHONE CAR CHARGER
FLEXIBLE STRIP LED LIGHTING
These low voltage (12VDC) LED light strips are
perfect for edge-lighting or to illuminate signs,
window displays and other small lighting
applications. The LEDs are mounted on a flexible
printed circuit board with a no-fuss, no mess 3M
adhesive backing. The strip is sold cut-to-length in
50mm segments or a continuous length up to 5m.
Each 50mm segment has 3
LEDs and requires
12VDC<at>16mA. Various
colours available.
• Sold cut-to-length in
50mm segments
• 3 LEDs per segment
• 3 LED segment dimensions:
50(L) x 8(W) x 0.25(D)mm
White
Warm White
Red
Blue
BUDGET RESPONSE CAR SPEAKERS
The handy solution to charge your mobile phone in
the car. Included is a cigarette lighter USB car
charger capable of delivering 5VDC up to 1A via the
USB output, as well as a universal USB charging
lead with 9 interchangeable tips to match all the
most common mobile phones.
See website for compatible
phones and plugs.
19 95
$
3
Per segment
5" Coax 2 Way
Car Speakers
REAR VIEW MIRROR TFT
MONITOR WITH CAMERA
ZD-0473
ZD-0487
ZD-0475
ZD-0479
A complete rear-view safety package including a 7"
TFT LCD monitor and a flush mount weatherproof
camera. It has adjustable spring-loaded brackets to
fit different sized mirrors. Composite video input.
Includes slimline remote control, 5-metre
video/power cable and 28mm holesaw
for camera mounting.
SUBWOOFERS
Twin Port Subwoofer Enclosures
179 00
• 7 inch screen
• Mirror Dimensions: 260(L) x
108(H) x 50(D)mm
QM-3762 WAS $249.00
Dual ported subwoofer enclosures with black
carpet covering. Designed for optimal performance
with the Vifa 10" subwoofers (below) . All you
need to do is to add the driver of your choice.
$
SAVE $70 00
Note: Should not be used as a substitute for a conventional rearview mirror but ideal when view is blocked by trailer or caravan.
• Dimensions:
480(W) x 360(H)
x 280(D)mm
4" Coax 2 Way
Car Speakers
Power handling: 15WRMS
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency response: 90Hz - 18kHz
Sensitivity: 83dB SPL 1W<at>1m
CS-2310 WAS $24.95
NOW $19.95 SAVE $5.00
• Input: 12 - 24VDC
• Output: 5VDC, 1.0A
MP-3578
$ 95
Low cost doesn't mean low quality. Coax speakers
are an ideal replacement for the standard
equipment stereo speakers you get in the average
car. All are equipped with titanium coated fibre
woofers and silk dome tweeters for smooth high
frequency response.
Power handling: 15WRMS
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency response:
70Hz - 18kHz
Sensitivity: 85dB SPL 1W<at>1m
CS-2312 WAS $29.95
NOW $24.95 SAVE $5.00
19 95
$
6" Coax 2 Way
Car Speakers
Power handling: 22WRMS
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency response:
60Hz - 20kHz
Sensitivity: 88dB SPL 1W<at>1m
CS-2314 WAS $34.95
NOW $29.95 SAVE $5.00
6 x 9" Coax 2 Way
Car Speakers
Note: Vifa driver
not included
CS-2526
Power handling: 27WRMS
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency response:
55Hz - 18kHz
Sensitivity: 86dB SPL 1W<at>1m
CS-2316 WAS $44.95
NOW $39.95 SAVE $5.00
DEAL
Buy both for $210
SAVE $78.95
Vifa 10" Subwoofer
39 95
$
CAR STEREO LINE ISOLATION
TRANSFORMER
Produce high quality sound. With dual voice coils,
high power handling and die-cast aluminium
chassis, they don't just deliver brilliant
low-register bass clarity but
also thump tremendous
SPLs like only Vifa
speakers can.
AUTOMOTIVE 8-WAY
PLUG/SOCKET - 250 SERIES
This transformer coupled network
will remove any Ground
Loops in your car stereo.
There is absolutely no
attenuation when the
unit is connected.
Supplied with gold RCA
plugs and sockets for low level
inline connection.
$
• 200WRMS <at> 2 x 4 ohms
CS-2351
00
$
WAS $249.00
199
Used in automotive applications such
as stereo and CB installations, or for
replacements in existing wiring.
• Comes with plug, socket, and male
and female locking spade lugs
PP-2069
12 75
• Freq resp: 20 to 20kHz
• No power required
AA-3085 WAS $19.75
SAVE $50 00
6
$ 95
SAVE $7 00
Buy a
Giftcard
Today!
RESPONSE PRECISION CAR AMPLIFIERS
With improved heat sinks and upgraded low-profile chassis design, each model delivers surprising grunt and
performance in a sleek and compact package that fits neatly under a car seat. All include gold plated power
and speaker terminals and variable low pass filters. Our class AB amps come with variable high pass filters
and pass through RCAs; while our class D subwoofer amps feature variable subsonic filter, phase shift and
master/slave operation.
2 x 80WRMS Class AB Amplifier
Dimensions: 266(L) x 235(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0450 WAS $149.00 NOW $129.00 SAVE $20.00
4 x 50WRMS Class AB Amplifier
Dimensions: 316(L) x 235(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0451 WAS $199.00 NOW $169.00 SAVE $30.00
2 x 150WRMS Class AB Amplifier
Dimensions: 376(L) x 235(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0452 WAS $229.00 NOW $199.00 SAVE $30.00
4 x 100WRMS Class AB Amplifier
Dimensions: 436(L) x 235(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0453 WAS $299.00 NOW $249.00 SAVE $50.00
500WRMS Linkable
Class D Subwoofer
Amplifier
MACHINED BRASS BUSBAR - 8 WAY
FROM
Dimensions: 232(L) x
$
178(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0454 WAS $249.00
NOW $219.00 SAVE $30.00
129
00
AA-0450
Dimensions: 306(L) x
178(W) x 58(D)mm
AA-0455 WAS $369.00
NOW $329.00 SAVE $40.00
AA-0455
All Savings are based on Original RRP
Limited stock on sale items.
Machined brass busbar used to give electrical
common point for wiring, also useful for low voltage
tie points such as on boats, RVs or caravans.
Conservative insulation rating of 1000V.
• All screws M4.0 Brass bar 9.0 x 6.0
• Length overall including standoffs: 100mm,
without standoffs: 65mm.
SZ-2003
1000WRMS Linkable
Class D Subwoofer
Amplifier
Better, More Technical
6
FROM
6
$ 95
To order call 1800 022 888
Kits
KITS FOR KIDS
8-in-1 Solar Educational Kit
Your kids will love constructing one of 8 scientific kits
that will not only keep them occupied for hours but
they will also learn about solar technology. No tools,
soldering or glue required. The finished projects are
solar powered, but can also be powered by a 50W
halogen light. Each project is easy and fun to build
with a detailed instruction manual included.
• Projects: car, riverboat, octopus, spaceship,
solar LED, robot, windmill, space alien
• Adjustable solar panel
• Suitable for ages 8+
• Solar panel dimensions:
60(L) x 35(W)mm
KJ-8925
39 95
”ALL TERRAIN” Multi
Function Tracked Robot
Wind Powered Eco-biker
Very robust all terrain multi function tracked robot
kit - very detailed instruction manual to help you
put this kit together. Comes with 6 terrestrial
tracks/crawlers. Can be reconfigured to operate as
a gripper, rover or forklift type mechanism.
Electric motors included.
• Batteries AA x 4 (not included)
• Dimensions of gripper robot: 90(H) x
160(W) x 270(L)mm
KJ-8918
• Total rider/assembly: 125(H)
x 100(L) x 90(W)mm
KJ-8923
49 95
$
$
FLICKERING FLAME LIGHTING
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine November 2009
Avoid unnecessary noise and vibration in twinengine boats. The Engine Speed Equaliser Kit takes
the tacho signals from each motor and displays the
output on a meter that is centred when both
motors are running at the same RPM. When there's
a mismatch, the meter shows which motor is
running faster and by how much. Simply
adjust the throttles to suit. Short
form kit only, requires moving
coil panel meter (QP5010).
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine October 1997
This lighting effect uses a single
20 watt halogen lamp (the
same as those used for
domestic down lights) to
mimic its namesake.
Mounted on a compact PCB,
it operates from 12VDC and uses
just a handful of readily
available components. Use
it for stage performances or
for unique lighting effects at
home.
• Kit includes 20W halogen lamp, PCB
plus electronic components
$
• PCB: 38 x 58mm
KC-5234
39 95
16 95
$
SECURITY KITS
UHF Rolling Code Remote Switch Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine August/September
2009
High-security 3-channel remote control that can be
used for keyless entry into residential or commercial
premises or for controlling garage doors and lights.
Features rolling code / code hopping, the access
codes can't be intercepted and decoded by
undesirables. The transmitter kit includes a three
button key fob case and runs on a 12V remote
control battery. The receiver is a short-form kit
without case so you can mount it in the location or
enclosure of your choice.
• Receiver 12VDC <at> 150mA (1A for door strike
use)
• Additional Transmitter Kit
available
KC-5484 $39.95
• PCB: Transmitter:
34 x 56mm
$
• Receiver: 110 x 141mm
KC-5483
99 95
Rolling Code Infrared Keyless Entry System
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine October 2007
This keyless entry system features two independent
door strike outputs and will recognise up to 16
separate key fobs. The system keeps the coded key
fobs synchronised to the receiver and compensates
for random button presses while the fobs are out of
range. Supplied with solder masked and silk screen
printed PCB, two programmed micros,
battery and all electronic
components.
• Receiver requires a
12VDC 1.5A power supply
• Some SMD soldering
is required
• PCB: 61 x 122mm
KC-5458
64 95
$
www.jaycar.com.au
BRIDGE MODE ADAPTOR
FOR STEREO AMPLIFIERS
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine July
2008
Enables you to run a
stereo amplifier in
'Bridged Mode' to
effectively double the
power available to drive a
single speaker. There are no modifications required
on the amplifier and the signal processing is done
by this clever kit. Requires balanced (+/-) 15-60V
power supply.
• Supplied with silk
screened PCB and
components
• PCB: 103 x 85mm
KC-5469
19 95
$
Salt Water Fuel Cell Powered Car
MARINE ENGINE SPEED EQUALISER KIT
• 12VDC
• PCB: 105 x 63mm
KC-5488
This cute little kit assembles up into a
wind turbine powered model bicycle
rider. The wind turbine operates the
rider's arms, legs and body. If the wind
is strong enough it generates enough
electricity to run the bikes LED
headlight! The assembled unit is
designed to mount in the neck of a
soft-drink bottle or - appropriately on the handlebars of a bicycle.
Mounting parts included.
27 95
$
VOLTAGE MODIFIER KIT FOR CARS
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine December 2009
This kit intercepts and alters the signal from engine
sensors that supply a voltage signal to the engine
control unit (ECU). Restore correct air/fuel ratios
after engine modifications, prevent engine boost
cuts or alter sensor signals for improved driveability.
Requires hand controller for programming, RS-232
cable and a suitable input signal.
• Includes PCB, case
and electronic
components
• 12VDC
• PCB: 87 x
105mm
KC-5490
This car uses a simple, environmentally friendly
fuel cell to power small electric car for hours of
very safe fun. All that you have to add is water
and table salt! Comes as a self-assembly kit.
Includes 3 fuel cell sheets, non woven fabric
separator and air cathode.
• Suitable for ages 8+
• Car measures: 75(L) x
40(W) x 18(H) mm
KJ-8921
19 95
$
SLA BATTERY HEALTH CHECKER KIT
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine August 2009
Checks the health of SLA
batteries prior to charging
or zapping with a simple LED
condition indication of fair,
poor, good etc.
• Overlay PCB and
electronic components
• Case with machined
and silk-screened front panel
• PCB: 185 x 101mm
KC-5482
79 95
$
ULTRASONIC ANTIFOULING FOR BOATS
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine
September/October 2010
Marine growth electronic antifouling systems can
cost thousands. This project uses the same
ultrasonic waveforms and virtually identical
ultrasonic transducers mounted in sturdy
polyurethane housings. By building yourself (which
includes some potting) you save a fortune!
Standard unit consists of control electronic kit and
case, ultrasonic transducer, potting and gluing
components and housings. The single transducer
design of this kit is suitable for boats up to 10m
(32ft); boats longer than about 14m will need two
transducers and drivers. Basically all parts supplied
in the project kit including wiring.
(Price includes epoxies).
• 12VDC
00
$
• Suitable for
power or sail
• Could be powered by
a solar panel/ wind
generator
• PCB: 78 x 104mm
KC-5498
249
79 95
$
Limited stock on sale items.
7
Clearance Sale
BUY NOW SAVE $$$ Over 20 to 75% off all listed items
Listed below are a number of discontinued items that we can no longer afford to hold stock. We need space in our stores!
You can get most of these items from your local store but we can not guarantee this. Please ring your local store to check stock.
At these prices we won’t be able to ship from store to store. ITEMS WILL SELL FAST AND STOCK IS LIMITED.
ACT NOW TO AVOID DISSAPOINTMENT. Sorry NO RAINCHECKS.
Product
Description
Cat No
Original Special Save
RRP $
Price $
$
Product
Description
Cat No
Original Special Save
RRP $
Price $
$
Remote Command-A-Man
Talking Swear Box
USB Keyboard with Rhinestones
Voice Recorder Digital 2GB
GT-3170
GH-1316
GH-1899
XC-0382
$9.95
$19.95
$59.95
$129.00
$1.00
$8.95
$29.95
$80.00
$8.95
$11.00
$30.00
$49.00
SL-3212
MP-3071
SL-2810
SL-2741
SL-2729
SL-2737
ST-3288
MB-3672
ST-3007
ST-3006
ST-3886
SL-3153
SL-2974
ZM-9080
SL-2816
MS-6138
PS-4044
MP-4552
MP-4554
MP-4551
ST-3308
SL-2716
MP-3232
ST-3331
ST-3389
ST-3384
ST-3178
$1.20
$9.95
$1.75
$7.95
$7.45
$8.95
$34.95
$99.95
$16.95
$39.95
$19.95
$22.95
$58.95
$99.00
$6.95
$29.95
$6.95
$219.00
$499.00
$189.00
$89.95
$149.00
$23.95
$14.95
$9.95
$4.50
$29.95
$0.07
$4.95
$0.50
$2.50
$1.95
$2.50
$17.95
$34.95
$9.95
$22.95
$10.00
$7.95
$34.95
$30.00
$2.95
$11.95
$2.95
$134.00
$359.00
$89.00
$62.95
$89.00
$6.95
$13.95
$5.95
$1.50
$8.95
$1.13
$5.00
$1.25
$5.45
$5.50
$6.45
$17.00
$65.00
$7.00
$17.00
$9.95
$15.00
$24.00
$69.00
$4.00
$18.00
$4.00
$85.00
$140.00
$100.00
$27.00
$60.00
$17.00
$1.00
$4.00
$3.00
$21.00
QV-8000
LA-5134
LA-5556
LA-5512
LA-5484
LA-5532
LA-5520
LA-5488
QC-3467
QC-3472
QC-3498
QC-3291
QC-3297
QC-3503
QC-3474
QC-3727
QC-3310
QC-3309
QC-3300
QC-3307
QC-3571
LA-5312
QC-8615
QC-3502
QC-8001
QV-3094
LA-9020
LA-5123
LA-5309
LA-5307
QC-3446
$69.00
$89.95
$23.95
$449.00
$599.00
$59.95
$199.00
$999.00
$99.00
$89.00
$279.00
$89.00
$299.00
$249.00
$69.00
$249.00
$109.00
$179.00
$199.00
$299.00
$179.00
$29.95
$39.95
$599.00
$149.00
$349.00
$59.95
$169.00
$29.95
$199.00
$169.00
$45.00
$39.95
$21.95
$404.00
$539.00
$54.95
$179.00
$899.00
$62.00
$28.00
$116.00
$53.00
$197.00
$89.00
$44.00
$134.00
$45.00
$71.00
$89.00
$134.00
$62.00
$7.95
$34.95
$449.00
$80.00
$134.00
$54.95
$50.00
$9.95
$70.00
$53.00
$24.00
$50.00
$2.00
$45.00
$60.00
$5.00
$20.00
$100.00
$37.00
$61.00
$163.00
$36.00
$102.00
$160.00
$25.00
$115.00
$64.00
$108.00
$110.00
$165.00
$117.00
$22.00
$5.00
$150.00
$69.00
$215.00
$5.00
$119.00
$20.00
$129.00
$116.00
Audio/Video Products
Antenna - 2.4GHz Ceiling-Mount
Antenna - 2.4GHz Compact Yagi 8dB Gain
Antenna - 2.4GHz Wall-Mount Panel
Antenna - 3.5GHz Flat Panel 12dB with Bracket
Audio Video Module 2.4GHz - Transmitter
AV Sender/Receiver 2.4GHz
Clip-on Chromatic Tuners
DAB+ & FM Radio Tuner Compact
DAB+ Digital Radio
Dual HD DVB TV Tuner and Recorder with HDMI
HDMI Cable 1.8m Bargain
HDMI Extender/Repeater
HDMI In-Line Repeater/Extender
HDMI Wall Plate Socket Double
Headphone 2.4GHz Wireless with USB Transmitter
High Definition Digital TV Set-Top Box
Micro USB Digital Tuner
Shielded VHF UHF Diplexer for Digital TV
Speaker 12" Foldback
Speaker Selector 8 Way with Impedance Matching
Video Distribution Amplifier 4 Output
Video Distribution Amplifier Dual Output
Video Splitter - Two Output
Video Transmitter - Long Range
AR-3271
AR-3272
AR-3275
AR-3274
QC-3598
AR-1836
AA-2041
AR-1751
AR-1750
XC-4918
WQ-7414
AC-1697
AC-1698
PS-0286
AA-2035
XC-4916
XC-4897
LT-3080
CS-2516
AC-1682
QC-3439
QC-3438
QC-3435
QC-3425
$49.95
$99.00
$89.95
$119.95
$19.95
$76.95
$14.95
$89.00
$139.00
$399.00
$9.95
$54.95
$79.95
$29.95
$99.95
$99.00
$89.95
$69.95
$169.00
$199.00
$119.00
$89.00
$59.95
$179.00
$12.95
$89.00
$22.95
$43.95
$7.95
$34.95
$8.95
$67.00
$67.00
$359.00
$3.95
$21.95
$24.95
$9.95
$49.00
$80.00
$71.95
$34.95
$116.00
$134.00
$80.00
$35.00
$24.95
$49.00
$37.00
$10.00
$67.00
$76.00
$12.00
$42.00
$6.00
$22.00
$72.00
$40.00
$6.00
$33.00
$55.00
$20.00
$50.95
$19.00
$18.00
$35.00
$53.00
$65.00
$39.00
$54.00
$35.00
$130.00
AX-3684
AR-1862
MB-3503
MB-3546
LT-3051
SL-2719
QM-3787
LR-8869
CS-2397
CS-2399
AX-3530
AX-3542
AS-3024
CT-1934
AR-1854
$24.95
$69.95
$37.95
$19.95
$9.95
$1.65
$385.00
$149.00
$189.00
$199.00
$1.95
$4.70
$6.95
$29.95
$69.95
$22.95
$64.95
$17.95
$9.95
$2.95
$0.45
$179.00
$134.00
$134.00
$170.00
$0.45
$1.30
$1.95
$18.95
$22.95
$2.00
$5.00
$20.00
$10.00
$7.00
$1.20
$206.00
$15.00
$55.00
$29.00
$1.50
$3.40
$5.00
$11.00
$47.00
DC-1500
GH-1118
GG-2307
GH-1871
GT-3516
QC-3188
GT-3272
GT-3279
GT-3263
GH-1255
GG-2383
GG-2382
GG-2381
GG-2385
GG-2377
XC-0326
QM-3779
QM-3777
YS-2807
GT-3696
GT-3201
GT-3692
GT-3285
$149.00
$14.95
$24.95
$9.95
$299.00
$49.95
$39.95
$79.95
$169.00
$79.95
$24.95
$24.95
$24.95
$24.95
$24.95
$8.95
$59.95
$99.00
$49.95
$59.95
$89.95
$59.95
$79.95
$134.00
$12.95
$9.95
$1.95
$206.00
$34.95
$34.95
$64.95
$109.00
$14.95
$21.95
$21.95
$21.95
$21.95
$21.95
$1.95
$29.95
$52.00
$14.95
$44.95
$79.95
$44.95
$24.95
$15.00
$2.00
$15.00
$8.00
$93.00
$15.00
$5.00
$15.00
$60.00
$65.00
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$7.00
$30.00
$47.00
$35.00
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$55.00
Automotive & Outdoors Products
Bitumen Based Sound Deadener
Bluetooth Hands Free with MP3 Transmitter
Charger Car Solar Battery Booster
Charger In Car Mobile Phone
Fixed Attenuators
Globe Bayonet Car 24V 21W
In-Dash Multimedia Player with 3" TFT Screen
Reversing Sensor with Dashboard Display
Speaker Car Vifa 6 x 9" 4 Way 150WRMS
Speaker Car Vifa 6.5" Splits 80WRMS
Speaker Grille Clamp Kit - Pk.4
Speaker Grille Clamp Kit / 'T' nuts
Speaker Mini LCD Screen
Speaker Tweeter Piezo Horn - 400W
Stereo Bluetooth Adaptor
General Consumer Products
2.4GHz 3-Channel RC Car Remote
Battery Operated Water Pump
BBQ Tool Set Pink
Calculator Solar Pink
Chess Board with Robot Arm
Digital Photo & Video Camera for Kids
Helicopter 3Ch Mini IR
Helicopter 4Ch Mini with Remote Recharge
Helicopter Apache 4Ch RC
Houseplant Watering System Deluxe
Human Brain Anatomy Puzzle
Human Ear Anatomy Puzzle
Human Eye Anatomy Puzzle
Human Skeleton Anatomy Puzzle
Human Skin Model
Pedometer with LED Torch
Photo Frame Digital 3.5"
Photo Frame Digital 7"
Portable Stove
RC Car - Audi R8 27MHz
RC Car - Ferrari 2008 F1 1:10 Scale
RC Car - Lamborghini Reventón 27MHz
RC Wall Climbing Battle Cars
Power Products
2.5V 1W Torch Globe Bi-Pin Type
AAA Battery Bank with Alligator Clips and Switch
Cliplights - Low Voltage Outdoor Lighting System
Globe Halogen 12V 50W 38D Lens Red
Globe Halogen MR16 12V 20W
Globe Halogen MR16 24V 50W
Head Torch 1W Multicolour 4 LED
Heavy Duty 70 Amp Battery Power Selector
Light - Fluoro for Cabin Lamp ST3006
Light - Fluoro Tube 12VDC Cabin Lamp
Light - LED Recessed Blue
Light Fluoro 26W Compact Red
PAR-56 Black Can Light
PEM Fuel Cell Module - 300mW
Reflector Caps
RF Remote Controlled Receiver 240V
Single 240V GPO w/- Extra Switch
Solar Lighting System 10W
Solar Lighting System 45W
Solar Lighting System 5W
Spotlight 10 Million Candle Power
Spotlight Solar Powered LED
Switchmode Power Supply 6VDC 2.5mm Plug
Torch Dynamo Pocket Sized
Torch LED Keyring with Solar Charging
Torch Mini LED - Red
Wireless LED Wall Light
Security & Surveillance Products
4-Channel to USB Video Adaptor
Alarm Kit 4Zone Wireless Economy
Alarm Relay Module
AV-GAD 8 Zone Alarm Panel with Keypad
AV-GAD Alarm Package - 5 Zone
AV-GAD Eye Spy 11 Passive Infrared Detector
AV-GAD Pro LCD Keypad (AV-707E)
AV-GAD Professional Alarm Package - 8 Zone
Camera CCD Bullet B&W with Sony Sensor
Camera CCD Dome Style B&W 380TVL
Camera CCD Dome Style Colour 550TVL
Camera CCD Dome Style Low Cost - Sharp Sensor
Camera CCD Dome Style Vari-Focal 480TVL
Camera CCD Downlight Style Colour
Camera CCD Mini B&W in Metal Case with Audio
Camera CCD Mini Reversing Colour
Camera CCD Pro Style B&W 380TVL
Camera CCD Pro Style Colour 350TVL
Camera CCD Pro Style Day/Night Colour 380TVL
Camera CCD Pro Style Hi-Res Colour 520TVL
Camera CMOS Mini 5.8GHz Wireless Colour
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SERVICEMAN'S LOG
There’s just no pleasing some people
While we prefer satisfied customers, every
now and then we strike someone who, try
as we might, we just can’t seem to please.
I don’t let it get to me but for those new to
service work or inexperienced at dealing
with customers, an unreasonable client can
cause sleepless nights.
I’d like to say that out of thousands
of clients I’ve had over the years, I’ve
never had such a customer – but I’d be
lying. To be honest, I don’t think one
can be in business – or at least a business where you have to deal closely
with customers – and not strike at
least one or two disgruntled clients.
This story is about one of them and
if you are a service person, you may
recognise a similar situation in your
own experience.
As is usual, my relationship with
this one started out happy and stressfree. She was the wife of a friend’s
friend and while I had met her before,
we weren’t exactly close. She wanted
a new computer and since I had been
running my business for a while, she’d
heard that’s what I did and asked if I
could build a system for her?
After sorting out the specifications
and price, she gave me the go-ahead
siliconchip.com.au
and I set about sourcing the parts and
doing the build. At 7am the next morning, I got a call asking if the machine
was ready. My negative reply seemed
to annoy her (at least, that’s what the
tone of her voice indicated) and she
immediately demanded to know when
it would be ready.
My response was that I was still
waiting on a couple of parts and in any
case, I like to burn new systems in for
a day or so, to make sure they won’t
fall over. Such things can happen and
it is better for a new machine to fail on
my workbench than after it has been
delivered to the customer.
I had explained this to her when
the machine was ordered. However,
some clients hear only what they
want to hear and she denied that I had
mentioned it. In any event, this first
call should have set off warning bells
but I was still fairly new to running a
business and ignorance can be bliss.
A few days later, I delivered the
system and everyone was all smiles
again. It ripped along nicely and the
software she had purchased for it
installed and ran well. And so, with
the cheque duly banked, I created a
scheduler task to call her in two weeks,
to see how things were going and to
offer any other help.
Alas, I heard from her in two days;
the machine wouldn’t turn on. I went
through my usual phone procedure
to ensure things were plugged in and
powered up and they all were. It was
a mystery until I went around there
and discovered she was trying to push
a plastic moulding which was not the
power button. Instead, the real power
switch was located below this, under
another admittedly similar-looking
but moveable piece of plastic with
“Power” clearly printed on it.
When I explained this, she looked
horrified for a brief moment before
launching into a spiel about how she
was pushing that one but it wasn’t
working. I made my excuses and
quickly left, somewhat annoyed but
pleased there was nothing wrong with
the machine.
A few days later I received yet
another call, this time at 6.30am on
a Saturday morning. She was unrepentant when I told her that calling
June 2011 57
Serr v ice
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ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
at 6.30am was unreasonable; getting
her computer going was far more important as far as she was concerned.
This time, she claimed that the 17-inch
CRT monitor I’d sold her was failing
and that the hardware I had supplied
was rubbish. She also said that she
should have known I couldn’t deliver
a better quality machine than company
“X” and that she would be seeking a
refund and that her husband would be
coming around to “sort it out”.
To be honest, I had tuned out of the
tirade by then. Instead, I told her that if
she had a problem with the hardware,
all she needed to do was bring it back
and it would be dealt with under the
warranty.
Well, her husband did come around
and he brought the monitor with him.
I plugged it in and it worked perfectly,
though he said that at their place the
image was all distorted and the colours
were way off. I couldn’t explain that
one; my thoughts went to either an
intermittent cable connection or even
the graphics card failing, although this
seemed unlikely.
In the end, we decided to go back
to their house and test it in-situ. With
the monitor back in position, I connected it to the computer while the
wife rearranged various ornaments
around it, with one even going on top.
And sure enough, when we turned it
on, the image was pulled upwards and
it displayed some very odd colours.
It didn’t take a genius to figure out
it was the magnetic sculpture she had
placed on top of the monitor. This
magnetic doo-dad consisted of a heavy
magnetic base and hundreds of tiny
star-shaped metal pieces that could
be infinitely rearranged and held in
place by the strong magnetic field. Of
course, this played havoc with the CRT
58 Silicon Chip
and once I removed it and degaussed
the monitor, everything was back to
normal.
Despite the evidence, she then tried
claiming that it was playing up before
she put anything near it but I told her I
seriously doubted that. I also said that
we would happily replace the monitor
if it failed but I never heard from her
ever again.
I cannot decide whether that was
a good thing or a bad thing – good
because I didn’t find her easy to deal
with; bad because I may have lost a
customer through no fault of my own.
Laptop fan maintenance
Laptops can really get my hackles
up. I say this because while they are
without doubt incredibly useful (and
often indispensable), my servicing
experiences have dampened my enthusiasm for them. A classic scene in
our workshop is the air turning blue
as one of us struggles to find that last
screw or clip holding the whole thing
together.
No matter how many laptops I pull
apart, it seems like each model is
unique when it comes to screw positions, clips and cable connections.
Some machines just about fall apart,
while others fight every step of the
way. I swear they are designed by the
same people who made British cars in
the 1950s and 1960s, with impossibleto-access screws buried under panels
behind covers beneath stickers.
When servicing a laptop, one of our
most common maintenance tasks is
to clean out the ventilation holes, the
CPU heatsink and any fans. This is because cooling systems in many laptops
are barely adequate even when new.
Throw in a layer of nicotine-flavoured
grime on the ducting and things soon
start heating up, especially if the fan
has slowed down due to wear and tear
and lack of lubrication.
Now you’d think that the manufacturers would keep this in mind and
put the whole caboodle under one
easy-to-access panel. But no; out of the
hundreds of laptops I’ve serviced over
the years, I have struck only a handful
where this is the case.
Not only are the fans typically at
the bottom of the disassembly chain,
even when you get there you aren’t
really there yet. Often, any air gaps
will have been sealed with “stick-likeyou-know-what to a blanket” singleapplication tape. This then has to be
ruined in order to be able to remove
the parts underneath. And because we
can’t buy this exact-same tape, everything from gaffer tape to duct tape is
pressed into use as a substitute.
Then there are the fans themselves.
Most are considered non-repairable
and are enclosed in sealed metal cases
which are crimped or folded together.
So in order to expose the bearing surfaces for lubrication, you need to either
drill a small hole through the case and
risk damaging the fan or pry the thing
apart in the hope that you can get it all
back together again.
And if you do get it back together
again, it had better be just as compact
and dent-free as when you started,
otherwise the fan will rub against it
and nothing will fit at all.
Once you get to the cooling components, cleaning them is easy. My
major gripe is the fact that you have to
disassemble and virtually half-wreck
everything in order to get to them and
complete what should be a very simple
job. When you present the invoice to
the client, “clean and lubricate fans”
doesn’t really reflect the actual labour
involved.
Instead, it’s just one of many “simple” jobs we have to regularly undercharge in order to maintain customer
goodwill.
Insurance reports
It’s not unusual for us to be asked to
write reports for clients making claims
against insurance policies. In my line
of work, this is usually when a laptop
has been accidentally damaged because either something has been spilt
on it or it has been dropped. Desktop
machines can also suffer accidental
damage, eg, when a nasty power surge
takes out the power supply and everything else in the case.
More recently, because we live in
Christchurch, it has been earthquake
damage reports and lots of them. In
the majority of cases, this involves
generating a report stating what we
believe happened to the equipment,
the damage done and the approximate
cost of repair. We’ve done so many
that we now have a large collection of
“templates” on file for the most common problems and misadventures.
This means that, when a new insursiliconchip.com.au
ance job comes in, all we have to do is
change the relevant client details and
add or remove any model or claimspecific information before hitting
“Print” or “Send”. There is no point
wasting time and energy generating
new reports from scratch when there
is one almost ready to go except for a
few sundry details.
In 99% of cases, this allows us to
trot out a comprehensive report that
will satisfy the most jaded assessor/
adjuster. However, human nature being what it is, every now and then we
get a customer who wants to bend the
truth and aim a little higher than they
know they should. However, while it’s
not unusual for people to overestimate
what their hardware is worth, it’s quite
another thing to deliberately try to diddle some “free” money from insurance
companies.
I don’t doubt that there are some
service people out there who have no
qualms about making inflated claims
on behalf of clients, their rationale
being that this is a “victimless crime”
and therefore somehow acceptable.
The problem is, legitimate customers
ultimately end up covering the losses
incurred by frauds and scams by way
of higher premiums, so it’s hardly a
victimless crime.
We always try to be scrupulously
fair in our reports. We listen carefully
to what the client tells us and as long
as the damage and evidence bears that
out, there is no problem in making
claim. Determining the replacement
cost can be tricky though. After all,
computer equipment that may fetch
just $150.00 in today’s market may
have cost the client a thousand dollars
or more just a few years ago.
As a result, we compare their
hardware with what is available now
and set our estimate at what similar
replacement equipment would cost.
That means that the client gets a “like
for like” replacement, which I think
is the fairest outcome for everyone
concerned.
For example, if the damaged machine sported an expensive motherboard, dual high-end video cards
and other expensive parts, then our
estimate would be based on the cost
of a similar machine using current
high-end technology. Similarly, if it
used mid-range hardware, then our
estimate would be for a machine with
mid-range hardware. We do have
to take into account the age of the
damaged equipment in making our
estimates though.
Of course, all this only holds good
if the insurance people listen to us
and take our advice. All too often we
get them coming back and valuing
the machine at a lower figure, usually
because they have arrived at their estimate using cheaper or lower-quality
replacement hardware.
That puts us in a tough position
because the clients often come back
to us, concerned with the disparity.
In the end, most are willing to take
the cash on offer and add whatever is
required to make up the difference to
get the machine they want, rather than
opt for a lower-end machine.
It’s also a tough call if it’s a major
client pushing for a false appraisal,
because turning them down will likely
result in the loss of their business.
However, tempting as it might be to
keep onside with them, a prosecution
for insurance fraud doesn’t look good
on the CV and we’d risk losing far
more than one client, so our answer
is always an uncompromising “no”.
It has taken me many years of hard
graft to build my company and its
current reputation and I am not about
to jeopardise that for the sake of one
client, no matter how important they
may appear to be to our business.
Besides, I have to be able to sleep
at night.
The koala did it
In this age of natural disasters and
shrinking computer repairs, any job
we can charge for is fair game. We are
prepared to take on just about anything
and so a wide variety of items find their
way onto the workbench.
One such job appeared the other day
and I had to double-check just to be
sure the client really wanted to spend
money getting this item repaired.
That’s because it was a bog-standard
halogen desk lamp, the likes of which
can be purchased at many stores for as
little as $10.
This one featured a small, rounded
head-unit housing the reflector,
halogen bulb and cover glass. This
assembly sat atop what appeared to be
two telescopic transistor radio aerials
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EMONA
June 2011 59
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
pressed into service to form the “stalk”
of the lamp. These two “aerials” ran
parallel to each other, about 40mm
apart, all the way down to a heavy base
unit some 250-300mm below. This
dome-shaped base housed the on/off
switch and the components required
to power the lamp.
The only real difference I could
see between this lamp and other
similar lamps was that this unit had
a company logo screen-printed on it.
Apparently, it had sentimental value
and the client wanted us to “have a
look” to see if we could do anything
with it. The reported symptoms were
low-to-no light output and the base
was getting hot.
Looking underneath, I could see
the removable bottom was indeed
slightly heat-warped, which is never
a good sign. The screws were hidden
under the rubber feet which crumbled
into rubber dust as I carefully tried to
prise them clear. Once the screws had
been undone, the base dropped away
to reveal a hefty-looking transformer
and, well, nothing else.
Not having disassembled one of
these before, I was mildly surprised
to find just a tranny hiding in there.
It made sense though; the bulb only
needed 12V AC and the transformer
stepped the juice down from 230/240V
AC to the required voltage. This was
then fed to the bulb assembly via the
two telescopic “aerials”.
I was quite surprised at this. Initially, I had assumed that the wires ran
up the hollow insides of the “aerials”.
However, in this lamp, the “aerials”
are themselves the conductors, ie,
they are live, albeit with just 12V AC
across them.
A quick check with the multimeter
revealed the secondary of the transformer to be open-circuit. Fortunately,
we had one in stock that was about the
same size, physically and electrically.
Using Ohm’s Law, I calculated the 20W
bulb’s approximate current draw to be
1.66A and although I had no idea of
the replacement transformer’s exact
specifications, it certainly looked capable of doing the job.
Anyway, I fitted the transformer and
the happy client took her now-working
lamp home. However, a few days later
it was back with the same problem.
This time, however, the heat damage
was more pronounced.
Puzzled by this, I quizzed the client
as to where the lamp sat and asked
if anything nearby touched it or obscured the rather limited air-cooling
vents. In the end, with no obvious
answers, I replaced the transformer
and back it went, with me thinking
that that would be the end of it.
But no; she back was on the phone
the very next day claiming the lamp
was very dim and “smelled hot”. I
asked her to turn it off, not touch
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anything and wait for me to get there.
As soon as I saw it, things began to
make sense. Once she’d put the lamp
back on her desk, she’d set about
replacing all the trinkets and “objets
d’art” that usually lived around it.
She had also clipped a small souvenir
koala bear (the type which “grabs”
anything placed between its springloaded forepaws) half-way up the
telescopic “aerials”. However, due to
the way she’d attached it, the sprung
metal clip inside the souvenir touched
and therefore bridged both “aerials”,
effectively shorting out the secondary
of the transformer.
As soon as I moved the clip away
from one of the aerials, the lamp burst
back into life. And so the problem
was easily solved although I have to
say that the design of this unit leaves
something to be desired.
These days, margins are such that
service work is usually only profitable
if a job is done once. Any warranty
claims or any further unpaid work
will eat up any profit. In this case, I
did the job twice and stood the cost
of the first transformer as well, not to
mention the time I spent going around
to the client’s house.
To offset the possibility of having
to revisit jobs, we try to ask the right
questions to nail down what the problem might be. It also helps if clients
answer these questions as accurately
as possible. In this case, I specifically
asked this client if anything was touching the lamp when it was in use and
you’d think that physically clipping
something onto the lamp would fall
into the category.
I’m also surprised the client didn’t
“click” that the lamp stopped working
when she clipped the koala to it. Oh
well, just another day at the office!
My next story is from A. F. of
Chinderah, NSW and concerns an
air-conditioner that was repeatedly
failing. Here’s how he tells it . . .
Recalcitrant air-conditioner
Enid is an elderly pensioner who
had found the going tough since
her husband died. And with her airconditioner now on the blink, it had
just got tougher.
When the unit first stopped working, a repairman charged her $100 to
get it going again, which Enid gladly
paid. However, a few months later, it
stopped working again and Enid paid
another $100. Now it had stopped
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
ACOUSTICS
SB
working for the third time and Enid had decided that
paying her rent and keeping her car running were more
important than keeping cool.
The result was that she now suffered the hot and
humid weather of the Northern Rivers district in NSW
while the unit stood idle.
When I heard of her plight, I immediately offered to
look at the unit, more as a token of sympathy than in
the hope of affecting a repair. In my younger days, I had
re-gassed two refrigerators using borrowed equipment
but I now no longer had the friends to help me out. I
phoned a local air-conditioning company and found out
that the standard call-out charge was $100. Re-gassing
cost around $350, while a new system would cost about
$3500. So it seemed that Enid’s unit had not required
re-gassing and the problem was something more minor.
Enid lived in a nice retirement village. When I got
there, my first step was to remove the batteries from the
A/C’s remote control unit and check them on my battery
tester. They tested OK and there were no signs of corrosion in the battery compartment, so I reinstalled them.
Next, I focussed my digital camera on the infrared LED
end of the remote and pressed the remote’s on-off button.
This resulted in faint flashes of light on the camera’s LCD,
so it looked like the remote was working OK. However,
the A/C unit on the living room wall would not respond
to any button presses, so it was time to investigate both
the outdoor section of the A/C and the meter box.
Enid showed me where the meter box was and as soon
as I opened the door, I could see a problem. The circuit
breaker marked “A/C” had tripped and I was glad that
Enid was there to see the fault for herself. There was not
much more I could do other than reset it, so I turned
off the main switch, reset the circuit breaker and then
turned the main switch back on.
In fact, this reminded me of a customer who found
that a circuit breaker in his meter box had tripped. He
had attempted to switch it back on without first switching off the mains. When he did so, the circuit breaker
exploded as it tried to switch itself “Off” while being
forced “On”. In turned out that the circuit breaker had
tripped because a leaking roof had caused a dead short
condition.
Fortunately, there were no dramas when Enid’s mains
switch was flicked back to its “On” position, so it was
time to see if the A/C unit would now respond to the
remote. Sure enough, the A/C unit responded immediately and a delightful rush of cool air descended from
the unit on the wall. Enid was thrilled.
So what had happened to trip the circuit breaker? A
retired friend explained that these retirement village
units had been fitted with 15A circuit breakers when
they were built. Since then, the supply voltage had been
reduced from 240V to 230V AC and so the A/C motors
would draw more starting current. Add in the fact that
the motor bearings probably now had higher friction
due to ageing and it’s easy to see why the circuit breaker
might occasionally trip.
Fitting a new circuit breaker with a “D” curve would
probably solve the problem permanently but I was content to leave my phone number with Enid. If I can save
a battler $100 just by flipping two switches, then I am
SC
happy to do so.
CEILING & IN-WALL TWO-WAY SPEAKERS
SUPERIOR SOUND QUALITY
AND PERFORMANCE
dynamica
June 2011 61
1 F
100nF
10k
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BC327
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TIMER
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TP3
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SINGLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
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POWER UP
+
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BOTH OPEN =
0–5m
X
Y
By JOHN CLARKE
VersaTimer/Switch
RB2
RA4
Vss
5
3
Q6
BC547
B
11
6
1k
TO RELAY COIL(S)
A
RB0
A
Q4
BC337
TP2
470k
LED2
Q3
BC337
2x470
10
LED1
K
C
E
IC1
PIC16F88-I/P
1
1k
MCLR
RA6
1k
10k
4
A
18
RESET
S2
14
17
+5V
1
1k
LK3
OPERATION
DOUBLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
MOMENTARY
2
10nF
NC
COM
NO
NC
COM
NO
(NOTE: Q1, Q2, Q5 AND Q6 NOT REQUIRED
FOR DOUBLE COIL RELAY)
TOGGLE
BOTH OPEN =
FOLLOW
LEDS
Use it as a micropower switch, programmable timer
and/or 12V battery protector
K
A
D4: 1N4148
A
K
MCP1703T
BC327, BC337, BC547
IN
Do you have a D1-D3
switching application
ZD1 that calls for a relay but B
GND
A current
K
needs very low
drain? You
won’t
get satisfaction
if you
OUT
E
A
K
use a conventional relay – it pulls too much current. You need
this circuit board which uses a 12V latching relay. As a bonus,
it functions as a programmable timer and battery protector.
T
HIS PROJECT WAS first conceived
to update the DC Relay Switch
from our November 2006 issue. That
project would operate a high-current
relay in response to any DC or pulse
signal and it also employed an optocoupler to provide full isolation between the control signal and the circuit
being switched.
Now while that project was OK there
has been an increasing need for a relay
switching circuit which consumes the
62 Silicon Chip
very minimum of power, whether or
not the relay is energised. The problem
is that all conventional relays draw
some current continuously when they
are energised and that can be a major
drawback in battery-operated circuits.
The current through the relay coil
depends on the particular relay. For
12V relays, the coil current can be as
low as 12mA for a 500mA reed relay,
30mA for a 3A relay and more than
100mA for a 30A relay. This coil cur-
C
rent must be continuously applied to
keep the relay contacts closed.
The solution: use a latching relay.
This type of relay only draws a brief
pulse of current when its relay contacts
are changed from the closed or open
condition. At all other times, it draws
no current at all.
So how does a latching relay work?
Well, instead of just using a moving
armature (to operate the contacts)
together with a coil wound on a steel
siliconchip.com.au
core (an electromagnet), a latching
relay has a couple of bar magnets and
these hold the relay contacts in one
position (eg, closed) or the other (eg,
open). The electromagnet effectively
toggles the relay contacts from one
position to the other just as you do
when you operate a light switch in
your home. However, in the light
switch example, the switch is held in
the open or closed position by spring
action. By contrast, the latching relay
uses magnets to do the same job.
But while latching relays are good
(ie, they don’t draw current continuously), they are much more difficult
to drive than conventional relays.
The circuitry required to drive them
is more complicated as we shall see.
Multiple functions
As indicated, this “VersaTimer/
Switch” circuit drives a latching relay.
It also provides a useful timer function which can provide latched or
momentary operation and can switch
power on for a predetermined period
or switch it off after a predetermined
period. Or it can switch on and off
alternately, according to your settings.
To top it off, it also provides a battery
protection feature, preventing the battery from being too heavily discharged.
This is important in circuits which run
from lead-acid and particularly sealed
lead-acid (SLA or gel) batteries.
All these features are provided by a
small PIC microcontroller. Now before
you fall about laughing or reel back in
dismay, stay with us while we give you
the reasons for using a micro rather
than a bunch of transistors and maybe
a logic IC or two. Well that says it all
really because a bunch of transistors
and logic ICs would end up being a
lot more complicated and provide less
functions than our circuit. Nor would
a discrete version have the low power
consumption of this circuit.
Latching relays use either one or two
coils to drive the relay into each state.
For a single coil type, you need a pulse
of current to switch from one state to
the other and then a pulse in the opposite direction to change state again.
A double-coil latching relay requires
a pulse of current in one coil to provide
the set (on) position for the contacts
and then another pulse of the same polarity to be applied to the second coil to
produce the (off) reset condition for the
contacts. There is more discussion on
latching and non-latching relays in a
siliconchip.com.au
The circuit is housed in a standard IP65 case (115
x 90 x 55mm). Two versions can be built – one to
switch the mains (as shown here) and one to switch
voltages up to 30V DC <at> 2A.
separate panel at the end of this article.
The VersaTimer/Switch has been
designed to suit both types of latching relay, ie, single or double-coil.
The double-coil relay has DPDT 2A
contacts and the single coil relay has
SPST 60A (or 80A) contacts.
The drive circuitry is also suited
to other latching relays that may not
necessarily fit onto the PCB for the
VersaTimer/Switch. Because latching relays have differing pulse length
requirements when switching relay
states, the pulse duration can be adjusted to suit the relay specifications.
Isolated triggering
For most uses, a trigger signal is
required for the VersaTimer/Switch.
This trigger signal can be 0V for one
relay position and 5V for the alternative relay position. For example, the
trigger can be obtained from a circuit
that drives a LED or from any other
suitable voltage signal.
In addition, the input trigger signal
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Very low current drain
Electrically isolated control input
Low battery protection
60A (or 80A) 250VAC SPST relay or 2A 30VDC DPDT relay
Relay options include input follow, alternate or momentary
Adjustable input switching sense
High, low or high and low switching with momentary action
Adjustable relay drive pulse duration
Timer periods from seconds to 5 hours
Main Uses
(1) Standalone timer
(2) Low battery power switch or battery isolator
(3) Low power relay control from DC or pulse signal
June 2011 63
Specifications
Specifica
tions
Supply voltage ....................................................................................................................12V nominal
Relay type ...........................................................................................................................12V latching
Relay drive pulse ....................................................................................................1-500ms adjustable
Pulse current at 12V ........................15mA (<at>25ms) for SY-4060, 85mA (<at>60ms) for JMX-94F-A-Z
Low battery threshold ............................................................................................. <11.5V (adjustable)
Low battery upper threshold (switch back on) .............................................................................>12V
Battery voltage monitoring ............................................................................................ 6ms every 10s
Timer function ...........................0-50s (200ms minimum, ~200ms steps), 0-5m (8.4s minimum and
36 x 8.4s steps) or 0-5h (2.38m minimum and 127 x 2.38m steps)
Isolation ..................................................2500VAC between coil and contacts for 60A and 80A relays
Trigger input isolation .................................................................. up to 50V maximum recommended
Quiescent current ..............................................................17µA maximum, 13.3µA measured at 12V;
add 10.6µA when RB2 is low and add 0.6µA during any timing period
Low battery quiescent current .......................................................................................................17µA
Maximum trigger voltage ......................................................... 35V with 10kΩ 0.25W resistor for R1
Minimum input voltage ......................3.25V for R1 = 10kΩ (alternative R1 for lower voltages: 1.5kΩ
for 1.5V, 3kΩ for 2V, 6.2kΩ for 3V)
Minimum input trigger current at In+ and In- .............................................................................225µA
Maximum input trigger current ................................................................................................... 60mA
is optically isolated and can operate
from a floating potential.
Triggering can also be from a momentary pushbutton switch or toggle
switch, depending on the application.
When used as a replacement for a
non-latching relay, the VersaTimer/
Switch responds to follow the input
signal. So when the input signal is
off, the relay is set to one state (for
example, with its contacts open) and
when the trigger signal is on (ie, trigger
voltage is present) the relay is switched
to its alternative state with its contacts
closed. You can select which relay
state occurs with which input signal.
Low voltage monitoring
This function is independent of
the input triggering function. In addition, the typical current drawn by
the VersaTimer/Switch is very low at
around 13.3µA.
Timer function
The VersaTimer/Switch can be set
to switch on or off with a trigger signal
for a period from seconds through to
five hours. It can be triggered from a
high to low signal (eg, 5V to 0V), a low
to high signal (eg, 0V to 5V) or from
both voltage edges.
Circuit description
Refer now to Fig.1 for the complete
circuit for the VersaTimer/Switch. It’s
64 Silicon Chip
based on a PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller (IC1) which monitors the input
trigger signal and drives the latching
relay via transistors Q1-Q6. It also
monitors the inputs that define all
the circuit functions, including low
battery protection.
The trigger input is via IC2, a 4N28
optocoupler. This comprises an infrared LED and phototransistor in a 6-pin
DIP package. When the infrared LED is
not driven (off), the phototransistor is
off. When the LED is on, the phototransistor is switched on. It can be driven
by either AC or DC signals, since the
internal LED is shunted with diode D4.
The optocoupler provides isolation
for the trigger input. This isolation
allows the input LED to be driven
from a signal that is not referenced to
the supply ground of the VersaTimer/
Switch. We recommend a maximum
of 50V between the LED drive signal
and the supply ground for the VersaTimer/Switch.
The input trigger current is typically
400µA when 5V is connected between
the input “+” and “–“ terminals. This
current is set by the 10kΩ limiting
resistor (R1) and the 1V drop across
the infrared LED. Minimum input
trigger current is 225µA and so the
input voltage can be as low as 3.25V,
with a 10kΩ resistor. For lower input
voltages, R1 can be changed to 1.5kΩ
for 1.5V, 3kΩ for 2V and 6.2kΩ for 3V.
The phototransistor inside IC2 is
tied to the high (+5V) RB1 output
of IC1 via a 470kΩ resistor. A 220nF
capacitor keeps RB2 low when a lowvoltage 50Hz AC signal is applied to
the trigger input. The 100Ω resistor is
included at the emitter of the optocoupler transistor to limit the current
when discharging the 220nF capacitor.
S1 is included as a test switch to check
the operation of the relay switching.
Power saving strategies
There are a number of aspects of
this design which are included to
save power.
If the battery voltage is low, the
470kΩ pull-up resistor at RB2 is tied
low via the RB1 output. This reduces
the current flow should the phototransistor within IC2 be conducting due
to infrared LED current. This feature
reduces the supply current by 10.6µA
when IC2 is conducting.
While IC2 provides isolation of the
input trigger signal, optocoupler IC3 is
included simply to save power. IC3 is
turned on when the RA0 output of IC1
goes high, to drive the internal infrared
LED. This turns on IC3’s phototransistor to connect the voltage divider
comprising the 22kΩ resistor and VR1
across the input supply, so that it can
be monitored by the AN2 input.
If this divider were permanently
connected, then the current would be
363µA. By turning on the optocoupler
for just 6ms every 10 seconds, we use
6.4mA to briefly drive the optocoupler
LED but the average current to monitor
the battery voltage drops to just 4µA.
Power is also saved by running IC1
at 31.25kHz using an internal oscillator and divider. At this frequency, the
microcontroller itself draws a mere
35µA. That’s pretty good but IC1 is also
placed in sleep mode for most of the
time, so that its current drain reduces
to just 11µA (maximum). It’s awakened
every 40ms for a short duration
In addition, REG1 is a low quiescent power regulator that draws a
mere 2µA. Further power savings are
achieved by ensuring that IC1 applies
voltage to trimpots VR2 and VR3 only
at power up and when switch S2 (Reset) is pressed. These trimpots are used
for setting the timer functions and are
monitored by the AN6 and AN5 inputs
of IC1. IC1 only needs to check these
settings at power up as they do not
change during operation.
When the reset switch is pressed,
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 65
R1
10k
D4
A
K
470
2
1
K
10
A
K
2
1
IC2
4N28
4
5
TPG
TP1
100
LOW
(BOTH OPEN =
HIGH & LOW)
LK2
EDGE
HIGH
TRIGGERING
LK1
COIL
POLARITY
ZD1
16V
1W
S1
TEST
10nF
2
1
2
1
IN
+5V
1 F
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
4
5
IC3
4N28
22k
A
D1 1N4004
OUT
1k
8
7
1
2
18
17
1 F
100nF
470k
A
220nF
10nF
GND
14
4
RB2
RB1
AN2
Vss
5
RA4
RB0
AN6
AN5
RB3
RA6
RB5
RB4
RA7
MCLR
IC1
PIC16F88-I/P
RA3
RA1
RA0
Vdd
10k
3
6
13
12
9
15
11
10
16
A
TP2
TP3
K
10k
A
VR3
10k
2
1
2
1
B
MOMENTARY
OPERATION
E
C
C
E
A
A
ZD1
A
Q3
BC337
K
K
D4: 1N4148
TOGGLE
BOTH OPEN =
FOLLOW
LK3
0–50s
BOTH OPEN =
0–5m
0–5H
B
Q1
BC327
B
LK4
POWER UP
VR2
10k
E
C
1k
PULSE
Q5
BC547
2x470
+5V
TIMER
10nF
10nF
D1-D3
1k
1k
S2
RESET
10k
D2
A
K
K
D3
Y
Y
X
+11.4V
+
E
C
C
E
B
B
Q2
BC327
1k
GND
OUT
IN
MCP1703T
K
E
B
C
BC327, BC337, BC547
A
LEDS
(NOTE: Q1, Q2, Q5 AND Q6 NOT REQUIRED
FOR DOUBLE COIL RELAY)
DOUBLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
+
+
NC
COM
NO
NC
COM
NO
COM
NO
B
Q6
BC547
100 F
16V
10k
E
C
10k
SINGLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
Y
X
A
Q4
BC337
K
LED2
A
2.2k
TO RELAY COIL(S)
X
LED1
K
+11.4V
Fig.1: a PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller (IC1) is used to control the latching relay via switching transistors Q1-Q6 (or Q3 & Q4 only if a double-coil relay is used).
IC1 also monitors the trigger input via optocoupler IC2 (ie, at its RB2 port), while other ports monitor the trimpot and link settings to set the edge triggering and
relay modes, the timer and the power-up defaults. Optocoupler IC3 is included as a power saving measure – it turns on only when IC1’s RA0 port goes high and
applies voltage to VR1 so that the PIC microcontroller can monitor the input supply rail.
2011
VR1
20k
SC
0V
–
INPUT
+
V+
0V
+12V
REG1
MCP1703T-5002E/CB
0V
10k
1k
S1
S2
TP2
IC2
VR3
VR2
100Ω
Q5
470Ω
220nF
4N28
TP
GND
D3
4004
10k
2.2k
LED2
LED1
10k
TP3
4148
D4
4004
2
10k
1k
IC1 PIC16F88-I/P
–
LK3
2
1
LK4
2 10nF
RELAY
11160191
IC3
4N28
1
+
10nF
IN
100 µF
1
100nF LK1
Q2
K
1k
10k
TP1
470k
V+
1
LK2
2
1k
10nF
0V
D2
10nF
470Ω
+12V
10k
K
VR1
22k
CON1
Q1
H CTI WS YALER G NI H CTAL
D1
4004
(UNDER PCB)
1 µF CER
1k
16V
10Ω
REG1
1 µF CER
ZD1
470Ω
Q4
Q3
WIRED FOR SINGLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
4148
D4
TP
GND
S2
TP2
100Ω
VR2
VR3
D3
4004
H CTI WS YALER G NI H CTAL
NO
NC
11160191
CON3
COM
NC
CON4
– –
NC
+ +
NO
RELAY
NO
COM
MAXIMUM RELAY CONTACT
RATING = 30VDC <at> 2A
TP3
220nF
2.2k
LED2
LED1
D2
4004
100 µF
COM
1k
S1
IC1 PIC16F88-I/P
LK3
2
1
LK4
2 10nF
2
470Ω
10k
100nF LK1
IC2
0V
1
4N28
–
1 µF CER
1 µF CER
IC3
1
+
10nF
IN
1
LK2
2
1k
V+
K
10k
TP1
470k
0V
K
10nF
470Ω
4N28
10nF
CON1
(UNDER PCB)
VR1
22k
1k
D1
4004
10Ω
16V
+12V
REG1
470Ω
Q3
Q4
WIRED FOR DOUBLE COIL LATCHING RELAY
Fig.3: this version uses the Jaycar SY-4060 double-coil latching relay which
has contacts rated at 30VDC <at> 2A. DO NOT use this version to switch the
mains or other high voltages.
the RB3 pin, which is normally an
input, is set as an output and it goes
high to 5V for the time required to read
the trimpot settings. When high, the
circuit current is increased by 1mA.
Yet another power saving tactic
involves preventing inputs RA3, RA4
& RB0 from floating if their respective
link selections LK2, LK3 & LK4 do not
have a link inserted. Any input that
66 Silicon Chip
Fig.4: regulator REG1 is a surfacemount device and is mounted on the
underside of the PCB as shown here.
You will need a fine-tipped soldering
iron to install it – see text for details.
Q6
Fig.2: this is the version to build if you want to switch the mains (230VAC).
It uses a 12V 60A or 80A single-coil latching relay with the contacts on the
side (see photo). Refer to Fig.5 for the mains wiring details.
ZD1
REG1 ON
UNDERSIDE OF BOARD
floats between 0V and 5V will cause
that input to draw power. This is prevented by periodically driving these
ports low for 500µs every 40ms. The
10nF capacitors keep the ports low
between each drive period.
Relay driving options
If you are using a single-coil latching relay, it is driven using transistors
Q1-Q6. For a double-coil relay, only
transistors Q3 & Q4 are used and the
other four transistors are omitted. In
this case, the “+” sides of the relay
coils are connected to the +11.4V supply and either Q3 or Q4 is switched on
to drive the set or reset coil.
Diodes D2 and D3 quench the backEMF voltage spike when the driven
relay coil is switched off. D2 clamps
the voltage when Q3 switches off
and D3 clamps the voltage when Q4
switches off.
We need all six transistors to drive
the single-coil latching relay because
we need to change the connection
polarity to the coil to provide the set
and reset pulses. For one polarity, RB4
switches on transistor Q3 and this
connects one side (X) of the coil to
0V while the other (Y) side of the coil
is connected to +11.4V via transistor
Q2 which is switched on by Q6 when
RA6 goes high.
For the opposite polarity drive,
Q4 is switched on by RB5 and Q1 is
switched on via Q5 when RA7 goes
high.
Diode D2 quenches the stored
charge within the relay coil when Q3
is switched off and to ensure this diode
fully shunts the current, transistor Q2
is kept conducting for sufficient time
after Q3 is switched off. Similarly,
when Q4 is switched off, transistor
Q1 is kept conducting to allow D3 to
fully clamp the voltage as the coil field
collapses.
Link options
Link LK1 selects the set or reset
polarity for the relay coil drive circuitry. This is necessary for the battery
protection function, so that the relay
disconnects the load if the voltage
siliconchip.com.au
DPDT relay version uses less transistors and resistors compared to the
SPST relay version.
Figs.2 & 3 shows the parts layout on
the PCB for the two versions. Start the
assembly by installing regulator REG1
on the underside of the board as shown
in Fig.4. This surface-mount part can
be easily installed by first using a pair
of self-closing tweezers to hold it in
place while one of its legs is soldered.
That done, check that the component
is positioned correctly over the mounting pads before soldering the remaining two pins.
Once REG1 is in position, flip the
board over and install the single wire
link. This goes in just below VR1 and
you can either use 0.7mm diameter
tinned copper wire or a 0Ω resistor.
The resistors are next on the list.
Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but you should also check each
one using a digital multimeter before
soldering it into position. Follow with
diodes D1-D4 and zener diode ZD1,
taking care to ensure that they are all
correctly orientated.
Now for the transistors. Install Q1Q6 for the single-coil relay version but
note that only Q3 & Q4 are installed
if you are using the double-coil relay.
Take care to install the correct transistor type in each position and make
sure that they are correctly orientated.
IC2 and IC3 can now be installed,
along with an 18-pin socket for IC1.
These parts must also be correctly
orientated – see Figs.2 & 3. Leave
This assembled PCB is for the version
shown in Fig.3. Take care with parts orientation.
drops below the threshold voltage set
by trimpot VR1. The adjustment procedure is described later in this article.
Links LK2-LK4 can be tied to the
RA0 output (which can be high) or tied
low to 0V. Alternatively, the associated
inputs – RA3, RA4 & RB0 – can be left
open circuit (ie, without a link).
IC1 checks whether or not a link is
installed by first setting its RA0 output
high. If a link has been installed between the “A” terminal and an input,
that will then cause that input to go
high. Conversely, if a link has been
installed between an input and 0V, that
input will go low. An input without
a link connection can be driven both
high and low.
Reading the input levels after driving the RA3, RA4 and RB0 pins high
and low as outputs allows IC1 to
determine which links are installed.
LEDs 1 & 2 indicate the relay switching. LED1 lights whenever transistor
Q3 is switched on and LED2 lights
whenever Q4 is switched on. The
length of time each LED lights is set
by the relay pulse length.
Construction
The VersaTimer/Switch is built on
a PCB coded 19106111 and measuring
103 x 78mm. This fits neatly inside
an IP65 polycarbonate case measuring 115 x 90 x 55mm, with the PCB
secured to the integral stand-offs using
M3 x 6mm screws.
Begin be checking that the PCB
has the necessary corner cut-outs so
that it fits into the box. It can be filed
to shape if necessary using the PCB
outline shape as a guide.
That done, check the PCB for any
breaks in the tracks or shorts between
tracks and pads. Check also that the
hole sizes are correct by test fitting
the larger parts (ie, the screw terminal
blocks and relay). The corner mounting holes should be 3mm in diameter.
Note that two different versions
can be built, each using a different
relay. Both use 12VDC latching relays but these have different contact
configurations and ratings. One relay
is a double-coil type with 2A DPDT
contacts (Jaycar SY-4060), while the
other is a single-coil type with 60A or
80A 250VAC SPST contacts. Follow
the correct overlay diagram for your
particular relay.
The assembly is almost exactly the
same for each version. However, the
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
1µF
220nF
100nF
10nF
µF Value IEC Code EIA Code
1µF
1u0
105
0.22µF
220n
224
0.1µF
100n
104
0.01µF 10n
103
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
1
2/6
1
3/5
3
1
1
Value
470kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
100Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
June 2011 67
4148
4148
PCB
M3 x 15mm TAPPED
NYLON SPACER AGAINST
SIDE OF PRESSPAHN COVER
(HELD IN PLACE VIA M3 x 6mm
NYLON SCREW)
RELAY
RELAY CONTACT TERMINALS
HEATSHRINK SLEEVING COVERING
SOLDER JOINTS & TERMINAL ENDS
PRESSPAHN COVER OVER MAINS
CONNECTIONS (SEE BELOW)
CABLE TIE HOLDS END OF CABLE
IN PLACE
This view shows how the mains wiring
is installed. Insulate the relay terminals with heatshrink and be sure to use
Nylon screws to secure the Presspahn
cover. Heavy cable will be required to
cope with high currents.
M3 x 6mm NYLON
SCREW & NUT
BOX
USE M3 x 6mm NYLON SCREW FOR
MOUNTING THIS CORNER OF PCB
CORD GRIP
GROMMET
header strip. Install them in the positions shown but leave the jumper links
off for the time being.
Finally, complete the PCB assembly
by installing PC stakes at TP1, TP2,
TP3 & TP GND, followed by switches
S1 & S2. These miniature switches go
in at the bottom left of IC1.
SHEATHED MAINS RATED CABLE
Fig.5: here’s how to wire the version shown in Fig.2 to switch the mains.
Make sure that the 2-wire mains cord is adequately rated for the job and
that it is anchored to the case using a cordgrip grommet. You must also
insulate the relay terminals with heatshrink and make a Presspahn cover
(see below) to isolate the mains connections from the low-voltage circuitry.
Mounting it in the case
15
PRESSPAHN COVER CUTTING
& FOLDING DETAILS
27
27
FOLD UP
FOLD UP
FOLD UP
FOLD UP
27
27
27
Fig.6: the Presspahn insulating cover is cut from a 108 x 42mm sheet and
is folded to form a box, as shown here. You will need to drill holes in the
righthand section to accept the Nylon securing screws and a cable tie.
microcontroller IC1 out of its socket
for the time being. It’s installed later,
after the power supply checks have
been completed.
Follow with the capacitors and
trimpots VR1-VR3. Make sure the electrolytic capacitor goes in the right way
around and be careful not to get the
trimpots mixed up. VR1 is a 20kΩ unit
while the other two are 10kΩ types.
The 6-way screw terminal blocks
are made up by dovetailing either two
3-way or three 2-way blocks together.
These can be installed now, with their
openings towards the adjacent edge of
68 Silicon Chip
the board. Note that the second 6-way
screw terminal block is only required
for the DPDT relay version (Fig.3).
Installing the LEDs
The two LEDs are mounted so that
the top of each LED is about 8mm
above the PCB. This can be achieved
by sliding a 3mm cardboard spacer
between their leads when soldering
them into position. Take care with
their orientation – the anode lead of
each LED is the longer of the two.
The 3-way headers for LK1-LK4 are
simply snapped off a single in-line
Before fitting the PCB, you will need
to drill holes in the case to accept the
external leads. For mains switching,
you will need to fit a cable gland at
one end of the case (for the input
trigger and supply leads) and a mains
cordgrip grommet (to secure a mains
lead) on one side of the case as shown
in Fig.5.
If you are not switching mains voltages (ie, you are using the arrangement
shown in Fig.3), then you will need
to install cable glands at both ends of
the case, in line with the centres of the
screw terminal blocks.
Note that only the SPST 60A or 80A
relay is suitable for switching mains
voltages and this must be installed
using the arrangement shown in Fig.2
and Fig.5. The 2A DPDT relay (Jaycar
SY-4060) used in Fig.3 is not suitable
for mains switching. In addition, the
track spacing on the PCB is NOT suitable for mains voltages.
Mains switching
Fig.5 shows how to wire the unit to
switch the mains. However, do NOT
attempt to do this unless you are experienced at working with high-voltage
siliconchip.com.au
wiring and know exactly what you
are doing.
Make sure also that the mains cable
is adequately rated for the load current. Our prototype shows a light-duty
7.5A cable in place but you must use
a heavier cable for higher currents.
A cordgrip grommet is used to secure the sheathed mains-rated cable
to the box (for cables up to 10A). The
hole for this grommet must be carefully
sized and shaped so that the cord is
clamped securely when the grommet
is inserted into this hole.
That last step is critical – if the hole
is too big, the cord will not be clamped
securely.
As shown, the mains leads are soldered directly to the relay terminals
and these must then be insulated using
10mm-diameter heatshrink sleeving.
Do not bend the relay terminals as they
are liable to break.
In addition, it’s necessary to isolate
this mains section from the low-voltage circuitry using a Presspahn cover.
Fig.6 shows how to make this cover.
It’s cut out from a 108 x 42mm piece
which is then folded as shown to make
a box. Once it’s made, you will need to
drill holes in the righthand 27 x 27mm
section to match the four 3mm holes
(including the mounting hole) in the
corner of the PCB.
That done, the Presspahn cover can
be attached to the PCB using an M3 x
6mm Nylon screw and nut – see Fig.5.
The mains lead is then secured to the
PCB using a cable tie which loops
down through two of the other holes.
Before finally installing the board
in the case, it will also be necessary to
connect the supply and trigger wiring
to the 6-way screw terminal block. The
PCB assembly can then be dropped
into the case and secured using M3 x
6mm screws. Note that you must use
a Nylon screw for the corner hole that
goes though the Pesspahn (ie, the two
screws used to secure the Presspahn
material must both by Nylon types).
Using Nylon screws ensures that
the mains remains isolated from the
low-voltage section of the PCB, even
if one of the mains wires breaks away
from its relay terminal and contacts
one of these screws.
In addition, a Nylon screw and an
M3 x 15mm tapped Nylon spacer is
attached to the side of the box, directly
above transistors Q4 & Q6. This holds
the side of the Presspahn material
in place and ensures that it remains
siliconchip.com.au
The Presspahn insulation folds over to box in the mains connections. Note
that one relay terminal protrudes through the side of the cover and this must
be insulated using heatshrink sleeving.
in position when it’s folded over to
form a box and the lid attached. It also
stops the Presspahn from bending and
damaging the transistors.
Complete the assembly by fitting the
front panel label. It can be downloaded
in PDF format from the SILICON CHIP
website.
Setting up
With IC1 out of circuit, apply power
(eg, from a 12V battery) to the +12V
and 0V inputs and check the voltage
between pin 14 of IC1’s socket and TP
GND. This should be very close to 5V,
ie, between 4.98V and 5.02V. If this is
correct, switch off and insert IC1 into
its socket, taking care to orientate it
correctly.
Now measure the supply voltage applied to the circuit at the +12V input.
Using a calculator, divide this voltage
by three.
Next, use your DMM to monitor the
voltage between TP1 and TP GND and
press switch S2. Adjust VR1 so that the
DMM reads the supply voltage divided
by three value, as calculated above (eg,
if the supply voltage measures 12.3V,
adjust VR1 to give 4.1V between TP1
and TP GND).
This adjustment sets the low-battery
switch-off value to 11.5V, with the
circuit then remaining in standby until
the battery voltage rises to 12V. The
actual voltages measured by IC1 are
3.83V for the low battery switch-off
and 4V for the relay return voltage.
This setting can be changed if a different low-battery switch-off voltage is
required. The required voltage at TP1
is calculated simply by first dividing
the required low-battery switch-off
voltage by 3.83V. This value then becomes the divisor for the input supply
voltage and the resulting divided value
becomes the voltage setting for TP1.
For example, let’s say that the required low-battery switch-off voltage
is 11V. In this case, 11V divided by
3.83 = 2.87. If the battery voltage is
exactly 12V, we simply divide this by
2.87 to get 4.18V. This voltage is then
set at TP1 using trimpot VR1.
The switch-on (ie, resume) voltage
after a low voltage has been detected is
now the 4V return voltage multiplied
by 2.87. This gives 11.48V.
Relay pulse duration
Trimpot VR2 sets the pulse duration
for the relay. In practice, this can be set
anywhere from 0-500ms, with 1V on
VR2’s wiper giving 100ms (ie, divide
the voltage reading by 10).
To carry out this adjustment, connect a DMM between TP2 and TP GND
and press S2. It’s then just a matter of
adjusting VR2 to set the recommended
pulse duration for the relay.
For the Jaycar SY-4060, the pulse
duration required is about 25ms, so
VR2 is set to give 250mV on TP2. For
the 60A and 80A relays, the pulse
June 2011 69
4148
–
TRIGGER
IN
– –
0V
CONTACT
SET 1
11160191
+
NO
+ +
NC
V+
COM
0V
H CTI WS YALER G NI H CTAL
+12V
COM
+12V
NO
0V
NC
NO
LINK LK1: LK1 sets the relay state when
the battery is low. Generally, this is
set so that the relay’s NO and COM
contacts open when the low-battery
cut-out point is reached, to remove
battery power from the load. This is
done by installing LK1 in position 2.
If you use a different relay to the
types specified, then LK1 may need
4148
WIRING AN EXTERNAL TRIGGER SWITCH
DOUBLE COIL RELAY VERSION CONNECTIONS
Setting the links
0V
EXTERNAL
SWITCH
CONTACT
SET 2
Fig.7: this diagram shows the external connections to the double-coil relay
version. It’s suitable for switching low voltages only (up to 30VDC <at> 2A).
needs to be equal to or greater than
60ms which means that VR2 should
be set to give at least 600mV.
V+
WIRE
LINK
NC
COM
MAXIMUM RELAY CONTACT
RATING = 30V <at> 2A
4148
4004
4148
16V
4004
16V
Fig.8: here’s how to wire an external
trigger switch (both versions).
to be placed in position 1 to achieve
the same result, ie, so that the contacts
are open on low battery.
You can ensure that LK1 is correct
by checking that the relay’s contacts
open when the supply is reduced below 11.5V or if VR1 is adjusted fully
anticlockwise. You will need to wait
about 10s for the low-battery voltage
to be detected and the relay switched.
Be sure to readjust VR1 to its correct
position after checking this operation,
as described previously.
LED1 lights briefly when the relay
contacts close, while LED2 lights
briefly when they open. This assumes
that you are using one of the specified
relays and that LK1 is in position 2.
The operation of the LEDs is reversed
if LK1 is placed in position 1.
LINK LK2: LK2 sets the input trigger
edge level. With LK2 in position 2,
the relay is triggered when the input
signal drops from a high level to 0V
(ie, a falling edge trigger). In position
1, the relay triggers on a rising input
signal, eg from 0V to 5V (or similar).
If LK2 is left out, the relay triggers
Table 3: Link Settings & Trimpot Adjustments
Link Setting
Position 1
Position 2
Open
Notes
LK1 Low Battery
State
NO contacts closed
on low battery
NO contacts open on low
battery
Not used
Relay contact state with
low battery
LK2 Edge Triggering
Triggers on high-going
input & when S1 closes
Triggers on low-going
input & when S1 opens
Triggers on both edges and
when S1 closes or opens
LK3 Operation
Momentary with timer
Toggle (or alternate)
Follow input
LK4 with LK3 set for
Timer Mode
0-5h
0-50s
0-5m
VR2 sets value
LK4 with LK3 set for
Toggle Mode
Powers up with NO
contacts closed
Powers up with NO
contacts open
Not used
Power up relay state
Adjustments
Use
VR1
Sets low battery
switching voltage
TP1 monitors divided battery voltage with S2 pressed
VR2
Relay pulse duration
0-500ms
TP2 monitors VR2 setting with S2 pressed
VR3
Timer value
TP3 monitors VR3 setting with S2 pressed
S1
Test operation
S2
Resets timer and sets changed links and adjustments
Press whenever links or adjustments are made
S2
Press and hold at power up to change
timer relay state
Selects either NO contact closed with timer or
NO contact open with timer
70 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
on both rising and falling edges.
LINK LK3: LK3 sets the relay operation
to either Momentary mode (position
1), Toggle mode (position 2) or Follow
mode (no link).
The Momentary mode operates
with a timer. Once triggered, the relay
switches on for the timer duration and
then turns off again. By contrast, in
Toggle mode, the relay changes state
on each trigger signal. Once triggered,
it remains in that state until the next
trigger signal arrives.
The Follow mode allows the unit to
be used as a replacement for a standard
relay. It duplicates the operation of a
standard (non-latching) relay.
LINK LK4: LK4 sets the timer range for
the Momentary mode. LK4 in position
1 gives a range of 0-5 hours, position
2 gives 0-50 seconds and no link gives
0-5 minutes.
The exact time-out value is set by
trimpot VR3. For the 0-50s range (position 2), 1V at TP3 (with S2 pressed)
gives 10s, 2V gives 20s and so on, up
to 5V which gives 50s. Other voltages
give corresponding timeout values,
eg, 0.5V gives 5s and 2.5V gives 25s.
Similarly, for the 0-5 hour range (position 1), 1V at TP3 is equivalent to 1
hour and for the 0-5 minute range (LK4
not installed), 1V at TP3 is equivalent
to 1 minute.
Switch S2 can be used to cancel
(or reset) the time-out during timing.
Any retriggering during timing will
be ignored.
By default, the unit is set so that
during timing, the relay’s NO contact
is closed. This means that the NO
contacts are normally open at power
up and after time-out.
However, this can be changed so
that the relay’s NO contact is closed
at power up and open during timing.
To do this, press and hold S2 for 5s
during power up and the option will
be set. Repeat this procedure to revert
to the default mode.
Link LK4 can also be used when
the unit is set to Toggle mode (LK3
in position 2), to select the relay state
at power-up. Installing LK4 in position 1 sets the NO contacts closed at
power-up, while position 2 sets the NO
contacts open at power-up. LK4 has no
effect in the Follow mode.
trigger the unit, so that you can test
the unit without having to feed in an
external trigger signal.
LEDs1 & 2 indicate the relay operation. As stated, LED1 briefly lights
when the relay contacts close, while
LED2 briefly lights when they open.
Test switch
Triggering input
Test switch S1 allows you to easily
check the results of the above link settings. It simply allows you to manually
The IN+ and IN– inputs are used to
trigger the VersaTimer/Switch. The
maximum trigger voltage is 35V and
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PCB, code 19106111, 103 x
78mm
1 115 x 90 x 55mm IP65
polycarbonate enclosure
1 12VDC latching relay (see below)
1 DIP18 IC socket
2 3-6.5mm diameter cable IP65
cable glands
2 3-way PC-mount screw terminal
blocks, 5.08mm spacing
1 12-pin SIL pin header with
2.54mm spacings (broken into
4 x 3-way headers)
4 2.54mm pin spacing jumper
plugs
2 momentary pushbutton 2-pin
PC mount switches (S1,S2)
4 M3 x 6mm screws
4 PC stakes
1 20kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpot (VR1)
2 10kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpots (VR2,VR3)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller
(IC1) programmed with
1910611A.hex
2 4N28 optocouplers (IC2,IC3)
1 MCP1703T-5002E/CB 250mA
5V low-dropout low-quiescent
current regulator (REG1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors (Q3,Q4)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
3 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D3)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D4)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 1µF monolithic ceramic
1 220nF MKT polyester
1 100nF MKT polyester
4 10nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 470kΩ
3 1kΩ
1 22kΩ
3 470Ω
2 10kΩ
1 100Ω
1 2.2kΩ
1 10Ω
Additional parts for 30V 2A
DPDT version
1 12VDC DPDT 2A <at> 30VDC
latching relay (Jaycar SY-4060)
2 3-way PC-mount screw terminal
blocks, 5.08mm spacing
Additional parts for 250VAC 60A
or 80A SPST version
1 12V SPST 80A <at> 250VAC
latching relay [Oatley
Electronics JMX-94F-A-Z
(www.oatleyelectronics.com)]
Or
1 12V SPST 60A <at> 250VAC
latching relay [Virtual-village
(www.virtual-village.com.au)
or see www.virtualvillage.com.au/4-x-12v-coilpolarized-latching-relays60a-250v-ac-003602-027.html]
2 BC327 PNP transistors
(Q1,Q2)
2 BC547 NPN transistors
(Q5,Q6)
4 10kΩ 0.25W 1% resistors
2 1kΩ 0.25W 1% resistors
Additional parts for for mains
control switching
1 108 x 42mm Presspahn sheet
2 M3 x 6mm Nylon screws
1 M3 x 15mm Nylon screw
1 M3 tapped Nylon standoff
15mm long
1 M3 nut
1 cord grip grommet to suit the
sheathed mains cable
1 100mm cable tie
the minimum is 3.25V if the 10kΩ
resistor used for R1. The trigger signal
must be capable of delivering about
400µA with a 5V supply.
Note that R1 should be changed to
6.2kΩ for a 3V trigger input, 3kΩ for a
2V trigger input and 1.5kΩ for a 1.5V
trigger input.
Note also that the triggering input is
electrically isolated so that a voltage
that is not referenced to the Versa
Timer/Switch circuit can be used as
June 2011 71
Latching relay
A latching relay differs from a standard
(non-latching) relay in that it will remain
in either state (or latch) without further
power. In some ways, this is analogous
to a conventional household light switch –
when the switch is flicked to one position, it
remains there until the actuator (or switch
lever) is switched back to its alternative
position. However, instead of the switch
lever, a latching relay uses a coil and an
armature to activate the switching action.
a trigger. The voltage differential between the trigger source and the Versa
timer/Switch circuit should limited to
a maximum of 50V.
The triggering sensitivity is quite
good. In fact, the unit can be triggered
72 Silicon Chip
Fig.10(a) shows the internal construction of a latching relay. It includes two
horseshoe-shaped bar magnets which are
positioned between the C-shaped core (or
pole pieces) of the relay coil. These two
bar magnets are physically separated and
attached to a pivot which allows the assembly to rotate clockwise and anticlockwise
between the C-core.
This pivoting assembly is called the
“armature”. When the armature is in its
anticlockwise position, the top bar magnet’s south pole is attracted to the top
section of the currently non-magnetised
C-core (or pole piece), while the bottom
bar magnet’s north pole is attracted to the
lower section. As a result, the armature is
held in that position.
Note that the bar magnets can be horseshoe shaped as shown in Fig.10(a) or they
can be two straight bars with north on one
face and south on the other.
The latching relay depicted in Fig.10(a)
is activated by applying a voltage to the
coil, so that the current flows in a direction that causes the top of the C-core to
become a south pole and the bottom to
become a north pole. When that happens,
the like south poles at the top and the like
north poles at the bottom are repelled
from each other.
At the same time, the south pole at the
top of the C-core attracts the north pole
of the top magnet, while the north pole at
the bottom of the C-core attracts the south
pole of the bottom armature magnet. As a
result, the armature rotates clockwise to
the position shown in Fig.10(b).
The armature now remains (or latches)
in this position, even after coil current is removed. That’s because the north pole at the
top of the armature is still attracted to the
C-core (which becomes non-magnetised
when the coil current ceases). Similarly,
the south pole at the bottom of the armature is attracted to bottom pole piece of
the now non-magnetised C-core.
Flipping back
Getting the relay to latch back into its
previous position simply involves feeding a
by connecting the input across an indicator LED in an external device (ie, it
will trigger when the LED lights). Note,
however, that R1 should be reduced to
either 3kΩ or 1.5kΩ to ensure reliable
triggering in this situation.
FLEXIBLE
CONNECTION
POLE
(INSIDE COIL)
ARMATURE
CONTACTS
COIL
COIL
CONNECTIONS
NC
NO
COM
NON-LATCHING RELAY
CONSTRUCTION
A
V+
RELAY
NC
COM
NO
2
1
S1
B
NON-LATCHING
RELAY DRIVE
V+
RELAY
NC
S1
C
COM
The most common relay is the standard
non-latching type. This comprises a relay
coil, an armature and switch contacts as
shown in Fig.9(a).
When no current flows through the
coil, the relay contacts are held in their
normal position by spring tension, with
the NC (normally closed) contact resting
against the COM (common) contact and
the normally open (NO) contact left open.
Conversely, when the relay is powered,
the current through the coil causes the
armature to be attracted to the coil’s pole
piece and this moves the relay contacts
to their opposite position. As a result, the
COM contact closes against the NO contact
and the NC contact opens.
Fig.9(b) shows how a standard nonlatching relay can be driven using a switch.
The switch (S1) simply connects power to
the coil when it is closed.
Another arrangement for the non-latch
ing relay is when the common (COM) and
normally open (NO) contacts are used
together with a momentary contact switch
to form a self-latching operation – see
Fig.9(c). Pressing the pushbutton switch
(S1) activates the relay and closes the
NO and COM contacts. These contacts
now form a parallel connection across S1
so that when S1 is opened, the relay coil
remains energised.
These closed contacts (or other con
tacts) can also be used to power external
circuitry. Note, however, that this selflatching relay circuit is not the same
as a latching-type relay, since the relay
continues to draw coil current.
SPRING
PIVOT
NO
Latching Relays: How They Work
SELF-LATCHING
RELAY CONNECTION
Fig.9: internal details of a non-latch
ing relay (A) plus non-latching (B)
and self-latching (C) drive circuits.
Finally, connect the inputs as shown
in Fig.8 if you want to trigger the unit
using an external pushbutton switch.
Note that the switch current adds to
the battery drain while it is pressed
SC
and is 1.1mA at 12V.
siliconchip.com.au
Latching relay variations
Latching relays come in two different
types: single coil and double coil.
As stated, the single coil latching relay
changes state depending on the polarity of
the voltage applied to the coil. By contrast,
a double-coil type relay uses one coil to
set the contacts one way and another coil
to reset them back the other way.
The advantage of the double-coil relay
is that fewer components are required to
drive it. Fig.11(a) shows how a single-coil
latching relay can be driven using a DP3P
switch. In position 1, the top of the coil
is at ground and the lower end of the coil
is connected to the positive supply. This
causes the relay to be in its reset state, with
the NO contact open and the NC contact
shorted to the COM contact.
In position 2, no current flows to the
coil while in position 3, the coil current
is reversed and the relay switches to the
siliconchip.com.au
ACTUATOR ARM
ACTUATOR ARM
POLE PIECE
S
S
RE
ARM A
TU
POLE
(INSIDE COIL)
COIL
PIVOT
N
S
S
POLE PIECE
2
1
OPEN
COM
OPEN
COIL
CONNECTIONS
A
POLE PIECE
CONTACTS
LATCHING RELAY
CONSTRUCTION
COIL
CONNECTIONS
CLOSED
2
COIL
S
N
CONTACTS
1
S
N
PIVOT
RE
ARM ATU
N
POLE PIECE
POLE
(INSIDE COIL)
N
N
CLOSED
COM
current pulse through the coil in the opposite direction. This forces the top pole piece
to become a north pole and the bottom pole
piece to become a south pole. As a result,
the armature rotates anti-clockwise, back
to the position shown in Fig.10(a)
Note that the current direction through
the coil must be correct in order to get
the relay to change state. If it isn’t, the
armature remains in its present position.
Note also that the north and south
markings for the pole pieces in Figs.10(a)
& 10(b) are those that would cause the
armature to rotate to the position shown.
However, as stated, these poles become
non-magnetised when coil current ceases.
In practice, the coil current is only required
for a brief period in order to move the armature to its alternative position. The current
pulse can be as short as 5ms for small
relays and about 60ms for larger relays.
It’s both undesirable and unnecessary
to have the coil energised permanently.
Prolonged magnetisation of the pole pieces
can cause them to become permanently
magnetised (called “remanent magnetism”). When this happens, the latching
action is less effective in one position (ie,
where the remanent magnetism repels the
attracted pole after power is removed).
This also reduces the current rating
of the contacts due to reduced contact
pressure.
As shown, the armature of the latching
relay drives a lever and this in turn opens
and closes the contacts. The accompanying photos also show a latching relay with
the armature in its alternative positions.
LATCHING RELAY
IN ALTERNATE STATE
B
Fig.10: how a latching relay works. It uses magnets at either end of a moving
armature which are attracted/repelled by the polepieces, depending on the
direction of the current pulse applied to the coil.
These inside photos show the two armature positions inside a single-coil
latching relay. The armature remains in its last position until the next current
pulse is applied to the coil (ie, it self-latches).
set position. As a result, the COM contact
closes against the NO contact and the NC
contact is now open.
Fig.11(b) shows the simpler switching
arrangement that’s used for a double-coil
latching relay. In this case, the relay can
be controlled using a SP3P switch, with
one coil driven with the switch in position
1 and the other coil driven in position 3.
Finally, note that the traditional NO and
NC nomenclature does not really apply
for latching relays. However, the relay
manufacturers still generally indicate NO
and NC contacts and qualify these states
as valid when a certain current polarity is
SC
applied to one of the coils.
V+
V+
3
S1a
RELAY
2
1
3
R
NC
S
S1b
2
S
R
RELAY
1
NO
COM
NC
2
3
COM
NO
S1
1
A
SINGLE COIL LATCHING
RELAY DRIVE
B
DOUBLE COIL LATCHING
RELAY DRIVE
Fig.11: a single-coil latching relay (A) can be driven using a DP3P switch. The
switching for a double-coil latching relay is somewhat simpler since only a
SP3P switch is required. No current flows through the coil(s) in position 2.
June 2011 73
Marantz CD6003 CD
...high quality machine has pitch control and USB input
Marantz is one of the few mainstream hifi manufacturers still
making dedicated CD players. In fact, they make quite a few,
ranging in price from affordable to very expensive. We take a look
at a machine which is somewhere in-between, offering pitch control
and a USB input so MP3 and other files can be played.
T
hese days, most people happily play their CDs
through a DVD player, which might be a run-of-themill model or a Blu-ray player. And while the better
DVD players do give a reasonable performance when playing
CDs, it is certainly not the best sonic result and there are
often problems with hum and other interference.
It may surprise some readers just how much RF interference can be superimposed on the analog audio and video
output of DVD players, particularly on the cheaper models.
Sometimes this can be enough to severely interfere with AM
and FM radio reception.
So inevitably, using a DVD player for CDs means that
you can be feeding significant RF signals into the inputs
74 Silicon Chip
of your amplifier. That is bad enough but the fact that just
about all DVD players are of double-insulated construction
and use a switchmode power supply means that there can
be significant buzz, hum and other extraneous noises to mar
your enjoyment of the music.
We investigated these problems fairly thoroughly in the
October 2007 issue of SILICON CHIP.
One way to circumvent most of the problems of DVD
players is to feed the TOSLINK (optical) digital output to
the digital input on a home theatre receiver but even there,
the results might not be optimum. Better still is to feed the
TOSLINK output to a high-quality digital-to-analog converter
(DAC) and to that end, we published a high-performance
siliconchip.com.au
player
Review by Leo Simpson
DAC in the September to November 2009 issues of SILICON
CHIP. This had the added feature of remote control of the
volume level.
Well, that solves most of the issues to do with sound quality but DVD players still have drawbacks. For example, they
often take an age to power up and then recognise that they
have loaded a CD. And since they tend to be designed with
on-screen display of their features, they don’t do a good job
of indicating CD tracks and other functions.
And then, when you press PLAY or change tracks, they
often have to cogitate about it for a while before responding
to your command.
All of this came to mind just recently when I decided I
siliconchip.com.au
Features:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pure high-quality CD Player with
MP3, WMA and WAV playback
CD-R/RW compatible; CD-text
HDAM-SA2 circuitry
High-quality D/A conversion (CS4398)
Customised audio components
Quick replay
Pitch control
iPod-compatible USB input
Coax and optical digital outputs
Headphone output with level control
Dedicated remote control
wanted a new CD player for my study. Having made the decision, I was immediately confronted by the limited choice
on offer – just a few well-known brands and at prices considerably higher than even for a good quality Blu-ray player.
But I also wanted a high-quality player with the facility of
pitch control and that limits choice even further. Sure, there
are some reasonably priced “professional” CD players with
pitch control but these are geared more to installations in
clubs and other similar venues and their audio performance
is not up there with the high-quality audiophile brands.
Which brought me to the Marantz CD5004. This is their
“entry-level” player which does have pitch control, along
with the capability to play CD-Rs, and CD-RWs and it will
play CD-DA (PCM) alongside MP3 and WMA formatted files
at 42, 44.1 and 48kHz sampling frequencies. As well, it has
the ability to read music data on MP3s and WMA files as
well as text-data encoded CDs. This means that it will show
the title of each CD track as it begins playing.
It also uses the Cirrus Logic CS4392 DAC chip and the
HDAM-SA2, the company’s proprietary Hyper Dynamic
Amplifier Modules which were originally developed for
their premium Reference Series products. This means that
its audio performance should be very respectable. So I
checked prices and some on-line reviews, all of which were
encouraging.
But then I considered the next machine up in the range,
the CD6003. It uses a better DAC, the Cirrus Logic CS4398
and it also has a USB socket on the front panel which means
that you can plug in a flash drive, iPod or other media source
so you can get a really good result when playing these files.
In all other respects, it appears quite similar in features to
the CD5004.
Indeed, all the Marantz CD players have the same styling
and general presentation with the differences being mainly
confined to the internal circuitry and possibly the ability
to play SACD disks.
Some of the more up-market models in the range have
been specially tweaked by the noted audiophile designer,
Ken Ishiwata but I think he has had a hand in the design of
most of the Marantz range. He really knows his stuff.
So I decided to purchase the Marantz CD6003; just like
that, sight unseen. When it was delivered, I wanted to see
just how good it was, so I put the CD6003 through its paces
on our Audio Precision test gear.
And that is how this review came into being.
June 2011 75
Inside the Marantz 6003; it’s as complex as we have ever seen in a CD player, with no less than seven PCBs. But beware of
that unshielded mains input socket (left top) – it’s a trap for the unwary (if you ever open the case, that is!).
Presentation
The first aspect of the Marantz CD6003 which impresses
is that it is such a substantial machine, in great contrast to
the often flimsy cases and ever-diminishing scale of most
DVD players. Marantz gear is bulky and solid; there is no
other way to say it.
And while you can have it in ubiquitous black, I much
prefer the silvery sheen shown in the accompanying photos.
The front panel looks to be all metal but the central section
is an aluminium extrusion while the curved sections on
either side are substantial plastic mouldings.
Overall dimensions are 435mm wide, 104mm high and
340mm deep, including mounting feet, the front panel
headphone knob and rear-mounted RCA phono sockets.
Weight is a hefty 6.6kg.
The disk drawer is centrally mounted above the dot matrix
display. To the left of this are three pushbuttons (Open/
Close, Fast Forward, Fast Reverse), the USB socket and a
tiny pushbutton which selects between USB and disk. To
the left of those again is a large button for the power switch.
To the right of the display panel are another three pushbuttons (Play, Stop & Pause), the 6.5mm headphone socket
and the associated small knob for its volume level.
76 Silicon Chip
On the rear panel is the 2-pin IEC socket for power, a
pair of gold-plated RCA phono sockets for the left and right
analog outputs plus another gold-plated RCA socket for the
coaxial (SPDIF) digital output, a TOSLINK output socket
and a further two RCA sockets for the Marantz proprietary
remote control system which allows the CD player to be tied
to other Marantz equipment.
There is also a small slide switch to select between the
player’s infrared remote control and an external control from
other Marantz equipment (eg, amplifier or home-theatre
receiver).
The CD6003 is double-insulated, hence the 2-pin IEC
power socket which accepts a standard 3-pin IEC power
cord. However, the machine does not use a switchmode
power supply. Instead, as becomes apparent when the top
cover is removed, it uses a rather elaborate conventional
linear power supply with two mains transformers, one of
which is tiny, to provide the standby function.
Inside, the Marantz appears to be far more complex than
any previous CD player we have reviewed. No less than
seven PCBs are employed. On the lefthand side of the chassis
is the very large power supply board, with umpteen (well,
five) regulators fitted with heatsinks.
siliconchip.com.au
By today’s standards the rear panel of the Marantz 6003 is positively spartan. But it has everything you need: analog out,
digital audio out in both coaxial and optical (TOSLINK), provision for a wired remote control and finally, a 2-pin IEC mains
socket (which fits the standard 3-pin IEC mains plug but does not have an earth pin because the unit is double insulated).
Interestingly, when the unit is on standby, a minuscule red
LED on the front panel is alight. Pressing the Power button
closes a relay on the power PCB and switches over to the
main supply. This extinguishes the red LED and lights up
the dot matrix readout which momentarily displays “Power
On” then “TOC reading” (indicating that it is attempting to
read the table of contents on the CD). If none is present, it
then says “No disc”. It then displays “CD” to indicate that it
is ready for you to load a CD. Clever little blighter, isn’t it?
But it is quicker to respond than a typical DVD player
which can seemingly take weeks to rouse itself when it is
powered up.
Power consumption is quoted as 19W, dropping to a
minuscule 300mW in standby mode.
Looking back inside the chassis again, we were a little
surprised to see that the AC terminals on the IEC power
socket were bare of any insulation. Shock, horror! Now I
know that the back panel carries the Caution notice “Shock
hazard. Do not remove screws” (or in French: “Attention:
risque de choc electrique. Ne pas enlever les vis” – nowhere
near as threatening) but those terminals should still have
some protection from the fingers or tools of a technician
who may not be concentrating.
Incidentally, the same comments apply to the copper
side of the PCB which carries the terminals of the mains
transformer.
The centrally located PCB carries the NEC microprocessor which controls the transport mechanism, all the play
functions and provides the digital outputs. The large PCB
on the righthand side of the chassis is the aforementioned
HDAM SA2 “Hyper Dynamic Amplifier Modules”. These
are operational amplifiers designed with discrete transistors;
not any of those “ghastly” op amp ICs!
This comes from Marantz’s deliberate appeal to the (often screw-ball) audiophile end of the market which tends
to regard even the best op amp ICs with disdain. Not that
Marantz is wrong to take this approach since it is definitely
possible to get better performance from a discrete design
than even the best op amps.
Underneath that same PCB is the surface-mount Cirrus
Logic CS4398 DAC chip. Presumably, audiophiles will
tolerate that; after all, you must have a DAC and if it was a
discrete design it would be huge.
Also of interest is the separate headphone drive amplifier
which appears to be based on a surface-mount dual op amp.
siliconchip.com.au
This is a so-called “current buffer” which provides a low
impedance drive to the headphones.
All told, the standard of construction is very good with
the double-thickness base plate providing extra rigidity.
The CD6003 comes with a large infrared remote control
and you might wonder why so many buttons are needed;
there are no less than 41! Funnily enough, each one has a
function but as we subsequently found, some of those could
have been arranged differently.
Operating it
Using the Marantz CD6003 is a dream compared to the
average DVD player, in that it responds much more quickly,
as mentioned above. It powers up quickly and if you place
a CD on the tray and press the Load/Eject button, it immediately retracts the drawer and then reads the disk’s table of
contents, giving a message on the readout “TOC Reading”,
followed by the number of tracks and the total playing time.
That takes about 10 seconds; a bit slow for a CD player but at
least you know that the machine is actually doing something
rather than seemingly confused, as seems to happen when
a CD is fed into a DVD player.
Pressing Play or selecting a track number with the remote
control starts playing that track within two seconds. Indeed,
anything you do with the remote elicits a response within
one or two seconds.
By the way, the player can cope with any number of
tracks up to 99. Some CD and DVD players are very limited
in this respect.
If you want to find a particular track on a CD, you just
press “AMS” and this plays 10 seconds of music from each
track, in succession. When you find the track you want, you
just press Play to continue.
And of course, you can play the tracks in random fashion,
repeat sections, tracks or the whole disk. Or you can program
the order, delete some tracks and various other functions
which most users will probably ignore.
EX playing modes
Audiophiles can be very “thingy” about CD players and
their various functions and one of the things they have
apparently learnt is that the internal microprocessor and
display readout and even the digital outputs can degrade
the analog audio output on CD players.
This is true for some audio equipment and Marantz, seekJune 2011 77
ing to keep these fanatics (er, audiophiles) happy, gives the
user the option to turn off the digital outputs and the display,
using the Sound Mode button.
And interestingly, various reviewers have noted that the
sound quality improves noticeably. Well, that is balderdash,
to put it politely. Our tests show that it makes not one iota
of difference – not even a poofteenth of a percent.
In fact, the only difference we could detect when “Audio
EX” mode is selected (which kills the digital outputs and the
display during playback) was that it prevented some remote
control functions, such as selecting the next track with the
“next track” button.
As already noted, the CD6003 provides pitch control and
this can be incremented or decremented in steps of 1% to
a maximum of ±12% by pressing the appropriate buttons
on the remote.
Annoyingly, this kills the digital outputs and these can
only be re-enabled by pressing the Reset button to kill the
pitch variation. So what if you want to listen to the Marantz
with pitch control and via the digital output to a hometheatre receiver?
Too bad – Marantz won’t let you and yet it is possible.
More annoying still is that the remote has buttons for
volume control but you can only have that feature if you
have the player linked to a Marantz integrated amplifier.
Now this is really silly since the Cirrus CS4398 DAC is
set up for digital remote control and would give a higher
quality result than when the analog outputs are connected to
a Marantz amplifier with its own remote control of volume.
While we’re in complaint mode, we should also note that
any playback from USB flash drive etc is only available from
the analog outputs of the player; so no digital output.
So again, if you want to listen to music files on your flash
drive via TOSLINK/SPDIF to your home-theatre receiver,
you will have to find another way.
The good stuff. . .
Having got those complaints out of the way, we can talk
about the good stuff – and there is plenty of it!
One point we have noticed about good-quality CD players is that they typically cite their frequency response as
2Hz to 20kHz but with no tolerance limits. The Marantz
CD6003 is the same. And typically, CD test discs do not
put out frequencies below 20Hz. So what is the frequency
response of the CD6003?
To answer this question, we produced our own test CD,
with sinewave signals down to 1Hz. And how far down was
the response at 1Hz? 0dB. In other words, it is ruler flat down
to almost DC. Incredible.
At the high end though, it starts to roll off very slightly
above 10kHz and is -0.6dB down at 20kHz. We would have
preferred considerably less roll-off; say no more than -0.2dB.
Where the Marantz CD6003 really shines is in its figures
for total harmonic distortion. This is quoted at .002% at
1kHz, a typical CD player spec.
We measured around .0015% at 1kHz but we also found
that it varied very little from that figure over the whole frequency range from 20Hz to 20kHz. Not that we could easily
measure that performance on the Audio Precision because
of the necessity to change filter bandwidths (22kHz, 30kHz
and 80kHz) depending on the frequency being measured.
Not only that but the Marantz does have some residual
switching artefacts in its analog outputs at a level of -60dB.
78 Silicon Chip
However, we managed to get meaningful harmonic distortion figures by using the averaging mode on the Agilent
DSO7304A digital scope to remove high frequency noise
and switching artefacts.
At lower signal levels of -30dB and below, the Marantz is
similarly outstanding. For example, at 1kHz and -30dB, the
THD is .04% with a filter bandwidth of 22Hz to 22kHz. At
-40dB it degrades to about 0.14%; still an impressive result.
Baffling!
To say that we were impressed with the harmonic distortion performance is understating the case. It is so good we
were baffled. It is better than the specs for the Cirrus CD4398
when handing 16-bit PCM signals.
Which raised the question: is Marantz converting the data
stream off the disk to 24-bit to get the higher performance
which is then possible from this DAC? Possibly but we did
not have time to investigate this point.
Clearly, in terms of overall distortion performance, this
is the best CD player we have tested.
Linearity of the DAC was good but not the best we have
tested. There is no error down to -80dB but at -90db, it produced -88.5B at 1kHz; an error of +1.5dB.
By the way, this measurement was done via the Audio
Precision passive audio brickwall filter so no sampling artefacts would have degraded this measurement.
We also checked signal-to-noise ratio and channel separation. For S/N ratio we measured -103dB unweighted (22Hz
to 22kHz) and 110dB A-weighted.
The reason for the improvement with A-weighting is that
there is a very low residual level of hum in the outputs; Aweighting filters that out.
Separation between channels is quoted as -100dB, with
no frequency limits. We measured typically -102dB across
the spectrum; reducing slightly to -99dB at 20kHz, an excellent figure.
Finally, we decided to test the front panel headphone
output which has its own volume control. This has a quoted
maximum output level of 18mW into 32-ohm headphones
but no other specs.
Since we have recently been designing a high-quality
stereo headphone amplifier, we just happened to have a suitable set-up for testing into various loads; very convenient.
Suffice to say that the headphone amplifier appears to be
not quite up to the same very high standard as the rest of
the player. But it is still very respectable and has adequate
drive for headphones of various impedances and sensitivity.
THD is around the .002% mark while the S/N ratio is
-104dB; a smidgen better than the main analog outputs.
Separation between channels was around -75dB and channel
matching about 1dB; mainly a function of resistor tolerances
and the miniature ganged volume control.
In use?
The Marantz performs impeccably. The transport mechanism is very smooth and always quiet – a pleasure to use.
And the sound quality is very high – no complaints at all.
It is certainly a high-quality machine.
Recommended retail price is $899. For further information, contact your hifi retailer or the Australian distributor
for Marantz products: Qualifi Pty Ltd, 24 Lionel Road,
Mt Waverley, Vic 3149. Phone (03) 8542 1111. Website:
www.qualifi.com.au
SC
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 79
By JIM ROWE
A Handy USB
Breakout Box
You can build it in 10 minutes and for less than $15
USB is a great interface but it is isn’t foolproof. The good thing is
that you can troubleshoot it with this simple USB “breakout box”.
It connects into virtually any USB 1.1 or USB 2.0 cable and lets you
examine D+ and D- signal line activity with your scope – as well as
letting you check the USB power line voltage (Vbus) and even the
current being drawn from the bus.
R
ECENTLY, I’VE BEEN working on
the development of a USB device,
ie, a device designed to hook up to
a PC via a USB cable and become a
“bus powered peripheral”. Along the
way, I realised that I was going to have
to measure the current drawn by the
device, to make sure it conformed to
the USB specification. Since I also
struck trouble getting the device to
“enumerate” properly when it was first
hooked up to a PC, it was also going to
be handy to be able to check the voltage
levels on the two USB signal lines with
my scope, to see if the voltage levels
were within specification.
Now since the device’s USB connector was mounted directly on its
PCB, the only way to measure the
current drawn from the host via the
USB bus would be to cut the pin 1
track on the board, so I could connect
in a milliammeter. But I didn’t want
to cut a track on the board just for
this test, because it would need to be
bridged again with a short length of
wire afterwards.
It also turned out to be a bit tricky
connecting my scope’s probes to the
two USB signal lines, because my
80 Silicon Chip
board was fairly small, with a high
component density near the USB
socket. In fact, this is always the way
with USB interfaces – they’re hard to
get at.
What I really needed was a small
“breakout box” which could be connected in series with the USB cable
between the PC and the device. This
would make any of the bus lines available for testing. So I knocked one up
using a small piece of PCB cut from an
old prototype board. The latter already
had a USB type-A socket mounted on
it, so all I had to do was add a type-B
socket and a handful of other parts.
It looked a bit untidy (as you can see
from the above photo) but it worked
well and let me do the testing in short
order.
When I mentioned that I had built
up this handy little USB testing jig to
SILICON CHIP’s esteemed publisher Leo
Simpson, his response was as quick as
a shot: “If it’s that handy why don’t
you take a quick picture of it and draw
up the circuit, so we can publish the
details in the magazine and give other
people the chance to build one?”
In the end, as well as taking a few
photos and drawing up the circuit, I
also designed a PCB pattern for it. So
when you build one, it will look better than my prototype. What’s more, it
will take take just 10 minutes or less
to put together.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit and there
really is very little to it. All four USB
lines basically pass “straight through”
between the type B input socket and
the type A output socket, so normal
operation can continue.
The Vbus line has a 1Ω 1% resistor
connected in series with it but this
is normally shorted out by a jumper
shunt (JP1). When you want to measure the current being drawn from the
host PC by the USB device, you simply
remove the jumper shunt and connect
a DMM between the two ends of the
resistor. The resistor then acts as a
current shunt, converting milliamps
into millivolts.
So by switching your DMM to its
lowest DC voltage range (say 0-2V),
you’ll be able to measure the device
current in milliamps very easily.
If you want to measure the bus
siliconchip.com.au
CON1
(USB TYPE B
SOCKET)
+
+
–
–
FROM PC
3
SCREEN
4
2
D–
2011
1
2
D+
TO USB
DEVICE
3
4
GND
GND
D–
D+
GND
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PLUS P
&
MONITOR
D+
MONITOR
D–
SC
CON2
(USB TYPE A
SOCKET)
1 1%
Vbus
1
MEASURE
Ibus*
JP1
SCREEN
MEASURE
Vbus
P
* WHEN JUMPER
SHUNT IS REMOVED
(1mV = 1mA)
USB BREAKOUT BOX
Fig.1: with jumper JP1 in place, all four USB lines basically connect straight
through. The current is measured by removing JP1 and monitoring the
voltage across the 1Ω resistor (1mV = 1mA).
Fig.2: the PCB will only
take about 10 minutes
to assemble. Don’t
forget to solder the
earth lugs on the sides
of the USB sockets.
The board can be fitted
with rubber feet at the
corners, or you can cut
out the corners and fit
the board into the base
of a UB-5 zippy box.
X O B TU OKAER B BSU
1102 © 11160140
GND D–
USB IN
CON1
3
2
4
1
USB OUT
CON2
D+ GND
4
3
2
1 1%
+
–
Vbus
+
1
JP1
–
Ibus (1mV = 1mA)
WITH SHUNT
REMOVED
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
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H 80mm internal width
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voltage as well, this is easily done by
connecting your DMM (set to the next
higher DC voltage range) to the two
pins of the other SIL pin strip (Vbus)
on the top left of the circuit. In most
cases, you should get a reading of +5V,
unless there’s a problem.
The two SIL pin strips near the bottom of the circuit are provided so you
can easily monitor the D+ and D- signal
line waveforms with an oscilloscope.
As you can see from the scope grabs
(Fig.3, Fig.4 & Fig.5), these signals take
the form of bursts or “packets” of data
at 1ms intervals. The data is encoded
using a differential NZRI (non-returnto-zero inverted) format, with the D+
and D- lines pulsing in synchronism
but with reversed polarity. To conform
to the USB specification, both data line
signals should have a peak-to-peak
amplitude of between 3.0V and 3.7V.
Note that while the outer screens
of CON1 and CON2 are connected
together, to preserve the continuity
of the USB cable screen, they are not
connected to the USB cable ground (ie,
pin 4) inside the breakout box. This is
necessary to make sure that the box
doesn’t disturb the operation of the
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PCB, code 04106111, 76 x
45mm
1 PC-mount USB type B socket
(CON1) (Jaycar PS-0920 or
Altronics P1304)
1 PC-mount USB type A socket
(CON2) (Jaycar PS-0916 or
Altronics P1300)
1 1Ω 1% 0.25W resistor
1 SIL 8-way pin header strip
1 jumper shunt
4 self-adhesive rubber feet
Price: $A14.95 plus $A10.00 p&p
per order. Available only in Aust.
Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139
Collaroy Beach 2097
Or call (02) 9939 3295; or fax (02)
9939 2648 & quote your credit
card number.
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
$________ or please debit my
screen in USB 2.0 cables.
I should note here that the main
information you’ll be able to get from
the D+ and D- waveforms is their peakto-peak amplitude, whether they are
switching in the correct differential
fashion and whether they’re both
fairly constant in amplitude rather
than varying sporadically or cyclically – either of which are indications
of problems. It’s not easy to get much
more information than this because of
the differential NZRI encoding.
Visa Mastercard
Card No:
_________________________________
Card Expiry Date ____/____
Signature ________________________
Name ____________________________
Address__________________________
__________________ P/code_______
June 2011 81
Fig.2 shows the assembly details. It’s
just a matter of installing the parts as
shown, not forgetting the wire link. The
four 2-way pin headers are snapped off
an 8-way header.
The corners of the board can be fitted
with rubber feet or it can be mounted in
the base of a standard UB-5 zippy box.
In use, jumper shunt JP1 is removed if
you want to measure the voltage across
the 1Ω resistor, to determine the current
drawn by the attached USB device.
Protocol analyser
Fig.3: a single USB control packet showing the differential NZRI encoding
(D+ in yellow and the D- in blue). The frequency reading is not relevant but
note how the two waveforms have approximately equal P-P amplitudes.
Fig.4: another capture of the D+ and D- signal waveforms, at a slower time
base rate. Here we see a control packet, followed by a much longer data
packet. Again the frequency reading is not relevant.
Fig.5: this third capture of USB signal waveforms is at a much slower rate
again, and shows the way the D+/D- data packets are sent at intervals of
1ms. Again, the frequency reading is not relevant.
82 Silicon Chip
Like most tools, the breakout box is
handy for what it does but inevitably
has its limitations. For examining USB
bus operation in more detail once you’ve
checked the basics, you really need a USB
protocol analyser which can look at all of
the control and data packets flying back
and forth along the bus, identify those
coming from the host and those returning from the device. This will let you
see what’s happening (or not happening,
when it’s supposed to).
There are a few software USB protocol
analysers currently available, which can
be very handy for this “deeper” level of
troubleshooting. As the name suggests,
these are basically software programs
which run on the PC and “keep an eye”
on the activity at any designated USB
port, so that they can either display it in
“real time” or save all of the information
in a log file which you can open later and
examine in detail.
One of these software USB protocol
analysers I can recommend is USBTrace,
developed and marketed by a firm called
SysNucleus. A free 15-day evaluation
copy of USBTrace can be downloaded
from their website at www.sysnucleus.
com and although it’s a bit restricted in
terms of the data it can save during a single
session, it’s still quite handy.
If you want the full version, this can
be purchased online for US$195.00.
Also available for free downloading are
software decoders for the various USB
device classes, so USBTrace can be more
informative about their operation.
There’s also a Microsoft “USB Device
Viewer” software tool called UVCview.exe
which can be quite handy when you’re
troubleshooting USB device operation.
It’s part of Microsoft’s Windows Driver Kit
(WDK), which can be downloaded for free
from www.microsoft.com/downloads/
The latest version at the time of writing
is V7.1.0, which comes as a 618MB ISO
file. This must be burnt to a CD-R before
SC
UVCview can be installed.
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Wireless doorbell
relay driver
This circuit is a novel way of using
a cheap wireless doorbell (available
from eBay or from a discount store)
to control a relay.
In operation, a battery-powered
doorbell receiver is used to trigger a
4027 flipflop (IC1a) that’s connected
to toggle its outputs on each clock
input.
The doorbell receiver has an
output signal that changes state on
receipt of a doorbell transmission.
It’s usually high when the doorbell
pushbutton transmitter is pressed
and low otherwise. This signal
clocks flipflop IC1a to turn the relay
on or off via transistors Q2 & Q3.
The circuit is powered from a 5V
rail which is reduced to a nominal
4.5V via diode D1 to also power the
doorbell receiver. The circuit controls a 24V relay which is powered
from a separate 24V supply rail.
Thomas Drage,
Bassendean, W.A. ($50)
Microphone adaptor
for a violin
This adaptor was devised to enable me to play violin with a small
dance band. It amplifies my instrument using one of the microphone
inputs on their sound equipment.
As shown, an electret microphone
is coupled to a 5kΩ potentiometer
via a 22µF electrolytic capacitor. The
potentiometer sets the signal level
into a 600Ω isolating transformer
which then drives a balanced microphone input via an XLR socket.
The electret insert was secured
within some sponge foam under
the fingerboard and connected to a
3mm jack socket fitted in the rear of
the violin. A long audio cable connects the violin socket to the adapter
which is housed in a small jiffy box.
siliconchip.com.au
+4.5V TO
DOORBELL
Rx BOARD
+24V IN
D1
+4.5V APPROX
100nF
K
+5V IN
A
120
1.8k
A
LED1
A
LED2
FROM
DOORBELL
Rx BOARD
6
1k
3
5
10nF
7
SD1
J1
16
Vdd 1
Q1
Q1
K1
RD1
4
K
10k
E
B
CP1 IC1a
2
A
K
24V RELAY
K
D2
10k
C
B
E
Q1
BC547
B
Q3
PN200
C
C
Q2
PN100
E
IC1: 4027B
10
13
11
J2
BC547
9
SD2
Q2
LEDS
15
CP2 IC1b
K2
Q2
RD2 Vss
12
8
B
K
A
14
E
D1, D2: 1N4004
A
K
C
PN100, PN200
B
C
E
Fig.1: this circuit alternately toggles the relay each time the doorbell button is
pressed. Note that you must use a battery-powered doorbell receiver (ie, NOT
directly mains-powered) to provide the input signal.
2.2k
ELECTRET
MIC INPUT
UNBALANCED
AUDIO OUT
22 F
T1
VR1
5k
1.5V
CELL
600 /600
2
It runs from a single 1.5V AA cell
in a battery holder attached inside
the box with double-sided adhesive
tape, as is the transformer.
Power is disconnected when the
cable jack from the violin is removed
from the 3mm socket.
Editor’s note: for best results we
3
1
XLR BALANCED
AUDIO OUT
suggest the use of a good quality
600Ω isolating transformer such as
Altronics M-0709 or M-0707. This
type of transformer was used in the
passive DI box (SILICON CHIP, May
2006) with excellent results.
Colin Christensen,
Redcliffe, Qld. ($45)
June 2011 83
Circuit Notebook – Continued
S1 START
TO STARTER
CONTACTOR
VIA NEUTRAL
SWITCH
TO FUEL GAUGE, TACHO, ALT INDICATOR,
FUEL PUMP & OTHER INDICATORS
OIL
LOP
A
A
K
2.2k
K
2.2k
S2 RUN
TEMP
+24V
A
2 x 470 1W
+12V
K
K
ZD1
12V
1W
10k
2.2k
RLY1
K
D8
470 F
25V
A
24V
BATTERY
A
K
A
D5
120k
14
1
K
IC1a
START
SIREN
IC1b
2.2k
22k
FUEL
RACK
WATCHDOG
A
ON
A
K
LED
D2
A
5
D3
K
4
D6
A
K
2 3
A
D1
K
IC1: 40106B
D4
100k
6 9
IC1d
8
4.7k
7
10 F
16V
1M
A
IC1c
Q1
MTP3055
OR
S
IRF630
K
D
G
47k
RLY2
K
D7
OIL
LOP
TEMP
A
STOP
S3
11
IC1e
10
13
IC1f
12
MTP3055, IRF630
LEDS
D1–D6: 1N4148
A
K
D7,D8: 1N4004
ZD1
A
K
A
K
Diesel engine watchdog circuit monitors
oil pressure & water temperature
This watchdog was devised after I
destroyed a Caterpillar diesel engine
when a stick harpooned an oil filter.
Ear muffs meant that I did not hear
the alarm or the disintegrating metal.
Mud on the dashboard obscured all
indications and gauges.
The watchdog shuts down the
fuel line to the injectors in the event
of a fault condition being detected,
turning off the engine and preventing damage. It is wired in place of
the ignition switch.
It works as follows: to start the engine, first the “run” switch S2 must
be held down for a short period. This
connects the watchdog circuit to the
24V battery. A 12V rail is derived
from the 24V supply by zener diode
ZD1, bypassed with a 470µF capacitor and supplied via two 470Ω 1W
84 Silicon Chip
current-limiting resistors. This rail
powers IC1, a quad Schmitt-trigger
input inverter.
The “oil”, “lop” & “temp” switches shown at the lower left of the
diagram are the fault sensors and
assuming there are no faults, they
are all open-circuit. If so, the 10kΩ
resistor pulls the input of IC1a high
via a 100kΩ/120kΩ resistive divider.
This divider prevents IC1a’s input
from exceeding 12V. Clamp diodes
D4 & D5 further protect it from excessive voltage.
As a result, IC1a’s output is normally low which means that inverter
stage IC1b’s output is high. This
charges the 10µF capacitor at IC1c’s
input via a 22kΩ series resistor and
diode D6.
Once that capacitor has charged
K
A
G
D
D
S
sufficiently, the output of IC1c goes
low and therefore the output of IC1d
goes high, turning on Mosfet Q1
via a 4.7kΩ resistor. This energises
the coil of relay RLY1, which has a
diode (D8) across it to absorb any
switch-off spikes.
When S2 is first pressed, power
is applied to the start siren, so it
sounds. Once RLY1 is energised, the
siren is disconnected from the 24V
rail. At the same time, the “watchdog on” LED lights to indicate that
the watchdog circuit is operating.
RLY1’s second set of contacts closes
across S2, shorting it out and so
latching the 24V power on as long
as the watchdog operates.
At this point, the start switch
(S1) can be pressed. Assuming that
the transmission is in neutral (and
thus the “neutral” switch is closed),
power is applied to the contactor and
so the engine starts.
siliconchip.com.au
BEAT
RATE
VR1
100k
B
4x10k
1
7
10k
6
B
C
Q1
BC337
5
4
E
3
2
4.7 F
16V
1
2
3
IN1
OUT4
IN2
IN3
IC1
OUT3
PICAXE-14M
OUT2
8
9
B
10
11
A
A
12
IN4
OUT1
SerIN
SerO/ 13
OUT0
K
K
A
A
C
LED4
LED3
K
K
E
Q3
BC327
100nF
22 F
16V
4.5V
BATTERY
(3 CELLS)
LED2
10
LED1
14
PROG
SOCKET
4
BEAT
SELECT
OUT5
S2
0V
22k
10k
IN0
ON/OFF
Q2
BC337
E
1k
+V
C
8
SPEAKER
220
10k
S1
LEDS
PICAXE-based metronome with accented beat
This metronome is based on a
PICAXE14M microprocessor and
includes an accented beat function.
This allows the musician to select
a different sound on every second,
third or fourth beat. General operation of the metronome is under
control of the PICAXE software and
you can find out more by reading the
comments in the program listing.
In previous articles in SILICON
CHIP, Stan Swan nominated the
PICAXE as the new 555 timer and
perhaps this circuit proves his point
by functioning like the classic 555
astable multivibrator. The 4.7µF
capacitor at the base of transistor Q1
is alternately charged and then discharged by output 5 of the PICAXE
If at any point one of the sensors
registers a failure, its corresponding
warning LED is switched on. At the
same time, the input to IC1a is pulled
low via the 100kΩ resistor and the
diode connecting that sensor line
to it (D1, D2, D3, etc). More sensors
can be added, simply by connecting
more diodes and LEDs in the same
manner as shown.
When a sensor activates, this also
completes the circuit for the coil of
relay RLY2, switching it on and thus
powering a solenoid that cuts fuel to
siliconchip.com.au
(pin 8) and associated components,
working between upper and lower
threshold levels established by input
IN4 (pin 3). Within the program,
input IN4 is operated in the A/D
converter mode, allowing accurate
setting of the two threshold levels.
This means that the 4.7µF capacitor provides the basic beat of
the metronome, with potentiometer
VR1 varying the capacitor charge
and discharge currents to set the beat
rate. Emitter follower Q1 is used as
a buffer between the capacitor and
the PICAXE input. If you require a
slower beat rate, just increase the
value of the capacitor.
Switch S1 selects continuous or
accented beat operation while the
the injector rail, shutting down the
engine. Then after a second or two,
the 10µF capacitor at the input of
IC1c discharges enough for IC1c’s
output to go high, ultimately turning
off Mosfet Q1 and thus RLY1, shutting the watchdog down entirely.
The watchdog can also be shut
down by pressing the “stop” button
(S3) which has the same effect as a
sensor operating.
The type of solenoid to use
depends on the engine being controlled. Diode D7 quenches any in-
K
A
BC327, BC337
B
E
C
four LEDs are included to give a
visual display of the selected beat.
Output 4 (pin 9) drives the complementary transistor buffer (Q2 & Q3)
and the 8-ohm loudspeaker which is
coupled via a 22µF capacitor.
The normal ticking sound and
also the accented beat sound are
actually short bursts of audio tone
and not just a single pulse, as this
gives a much louder and more effective sound. The speaker should
be mounted in an enclosure or you
will not obtain maximum loudness.
The software, Metronome_pgm.
bas, can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website.
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($80)
ductive spikes when RLY2 switches
off.
Since the watchdog shuts down
completely after the engine is cut,
it can be used unattended (eg, for
engine-driven pumps) and will not
discharge the battery after a fault.
Note that this circuit may not be
suitable without modification for
turbocharged engines as it may be
necessary to idle the engine for a
period before shutting it down.
Merv Thomas,
Townsville, Qld. ($80)
June 2011 85
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Multi-decade period-multiplier for precision
frequency comparisons
This circuit was built to enable
very precise calibration of a Rubidium Frequency Standard unit
against a GPS-derived frequency
standard. It uses the 1-pulse/second
signal from a GPS-based frequency
reference to generate a very accurate
long-duration gate-control pulse for
a frequency counter.
The GPS-Based Frequency Reference (SILICON CHIP, March & April
2007) or a commercial unit (eg,
Trimble Thunderbolt) would be
suitable. The signal to be calibrated
or compared would typically be
10MHz from a stable oscillator. A
7-digit frequency counter with a
1-second gate period will have a
resolution of 1Hz, being one part in
107 for a 10MHz signal.
If the gate time is increased to 10
seconds, the counter will repeatedly
overflow but the resolution will become 0.1Hz, giving one part in 108
for a 10MHz signal. The Multiplier
can extend the resolution to one part
in 1013, averaged over one million
seconds (just under 12 days).
I used a Hewlett Packard 5301A
7-digit counter which has a TTLlevel gate input. Many other frequency counters would also be suitable.
The circuit uses mostly 4000series CMOS ICs. The 1-pulse/second GPS signal is fed into a 4584B
non-inverting Schmitt trigger buffer
(IC1a,b) and then to a chain of six
4017B decade counters (IC2-IC7).
A 7-position switch (S3) selects the
output from the Schmitt buffer or
any of the decade counters.
This switched output triggers a D
flipflop (4013B) which will change
state every 1, 10, 100, . . . or one
million seconds, as chosen.
The Q output of the 4013B (IC9b)
drives a complementary transistor
pair to give a low impedance output
to drive the counter gate. The Hewlett Packard counter gate is open on
LOW but if another counter required
a HIGH to open, the Q-bar output
would be used instead. Note that
the gate is open for every alternate
counter period.
The 9-to-0 transition of each
counter advances the next-higher
counter by 1 and when selected by
the 7-position switch is used to toggle the flipflop. A reset switch sets all
counters to zero and sets the 4013B
to close the frequency counter’s
gate. Thereafter, the gate will not
open until after one complete count
period. This could be 11 days later!
Therefore, a 7555 variable-frequency oscillator with a wide frequency range (set by potentiometer
and range switch) has been included. The oscillator is only active and
connected to the counter input while
its pushbutton is held on. It allows
the counter chain to be pre-loaded
to near the end of its period. Each
of the 4017B counters has a LED
connected to its “9” output pin; it
lights only on a count of 9.
The circuit must run off a +5V
power supply in order to ensure a
correct TTL output signal. Current
drain is around 30mA, depending
on which LEDs are lit.
When using the Multiplier, only
those counters up to the decade
selected by the 7-position switch
should be pre-loaded to “9” but do not
let the two least significant counters
reach “9” after the relevant more-sig-
Garth J
enk
is
t
h
is mont inson
nificant
of a Pe h’s winner
digits are
a
Test Ins k Atlas
set to “9”.
trumen
t
Slow the os-
cillator down as
you approach the end o f p r e loading. It is too easy to overshoot
and start the count by mistake!
If this happens, use RESET to stop
the count, clear the frequency counter display and pre-load again. It is
vital that the Multiplier be started
only by a correct GPS 1-second
pulse.
The Hewlett Packard 5301A counter does NOT clear its display before
starting to count when its external
gate control is used. Therefore, be
sure to clear its display manually
before making any measurement.
I also found that my HP counter
has a slight additional delay (~0.6µs)
when opening compared with closing its gate but only when using the
external gate control. The result is
always that it loses six cycles of
a 10MHz signal for any counting
period. This effect can be easily
identified and overcome as follows:
feed the GPS 10MHz output into the
frequency counter and observe the
displayed value for repeated periods
of 1s, 10s and 100s (or more). In
every case, the display should be
“0000000” ±1 count.
In my system, I always obtained
9999993 or 9999994. The solution
is to add “6” to the least significant
digit displayed after any measurement, regardless of the selected
measuring period.
I have used this circuit to set a
Rubidium frequency standard to
within three parts in 1012 against
a Trimble GPS Standard, with very
good repeatable measurements, using five decades.
Garth F. Jenkinson,
Emerald, Vic.
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
We pay for each of the “Circuit Notebook” items published in SILICON CHIP
but there are three more reasons to
send in your circuit idea. Each month,
at the discretion of the editor, the best
contribution published will entitle the
author to choose a prize: an LCR40
LCR meter, a DCA55 Semiconductor
Component Analyser or an ESR60
86 Silicon Chip
Equivalent Series Resistance Analyser,
with the compliments of Peak Electronic
Design Ltd – see www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in. Send it to
SILICON CHIP and you could be a winner.
You can either email your idea to
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it
to PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 87
VR1
500k
1k
2.2k
5
3
S2a
1
+5V
7
4
2
4
6
2
7
10k
IC1b
14
IC1a
IC8
7555
8
+5V
3
1
10k
S4
16
Vdd
470nF
S2b
8
O5-9
12
O0
O1
O2
O3
O5
O6
O7
O8
O9
1
5
6
9
11
3
2
4
7
IC2
4017B O4 10
CP1
Vss
CP0
MR
4.7nF
10k
13
14
15
LEDS 1& 2: GREEN; LEDS 3 & 4: YELLOW; LEDS 5 & 6: RED
1Hz PULSES
FROM GPS
(N/C)
S1
RESET
K
(IC3)
12
9
5
13
IC1f
IC1e
IC1d
IC1c
14
3
5
(IC4)
15
6
MR
R
4
IC9a
S
CLK
D
12
IC3, IC4, IC6: 4017B
12
10
8
6
IC1: 4584B
11
14
LED1
A
1k
15
Q
Q
13
MR
16
Vdd
8
0
1
1
5
6
9
S3
3
3
2
4
7
4
5
6
K
11
9
14
A
K
8
12
12
14
Vdd 13
Q
IC9b
S
(IC6)
15
Q
CLK
Vss
R
10 7
D
LED4
A
1k
D1, D2: 1N4148
IC9: 4013B
MR
2
O5-9
12
O0
O1
O2
O3
O5
O6
O7
O8
O9
11
IC5
4017B O4 10
CP1
Vss
CP0
2
1
14
15
A
K
13
16
Vdd
D2
22k
22k
D1
8
1
5
6
9
11
3
2
4
7
47
47
B
100k
K
A
K
A
B
100k
O5-9
12
O0
O1
O2
O3
O5
O6
O7
O8
O9
IC7
4017B O4 10
CP1
Vss
CP0
MR
LEDS
14
15
E
C
C
E
K
A
LED6
1k
E
B
C
BC549, BC558
Q2
BC549
OUT TO
COUNTER
(GATE INPUT)
Q1
BC558
220 F
10V
+5V
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Quick Circuit PCB Prototyping
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provides a cost effective alternative to other rapid prototyping machines.
Its small footprint and economy pricing make this machine ideal for the educational, R&D laboratory and “lessfrequent-user” markets.
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for cramped environments, and weighs in at just 13kg. The
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As with other Quick Circuit models, the Quick Circuit
3000 comes with a fully-featured licence to IsoPro and has
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Although compact, the Quick Circuit 3000 PCB Prototyping system includes standard features such as USB interface
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import, G-Code exContact:
port and more.
Quick Circuit SATCAM
is designed and 823 Victoria Road, Ryde NSW 2112
manufactured in Tel: (02) 9807 7081 Fax: (02) 9807 7083
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Visaton miniature speakers fit where most speakers don’t!
German loudspeaker specialist
Visaton now have a large range of
miniature speakers suitable for medical, industrial, projects, signalling,
communications & model construction and more. Starting at a tiny
16mm in size these speakers can be
put into some of the smallest spaces
Inmarsat Satellite Phone
from Av-Comm
with excellent performance.
They come in a range of
shapes, sizes and impedances
and are suitable for where space is at
a premium. Models include various
sizes such as 23mm, 28mm, 36mm,
50mm and more; PCB mount, terminals or wired options are available.
They say mobile phones cover 96% of the
Australian population. What they don’t say is
that 96% is in about 4% of the continent!
When you go “bush” or sailing or...
wherever a mobile phone won’t reach,
a satphone will!
Calls are fairly expensive
(~83c/minute) but if you really
do have to make that call, what
price is too high?
Av-Comm have available
this prepaid Inmarsat phone,
complete with soft case and
charger, for $900 inc
GST, plus delivery. This Contact:
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its (~100 minutes) with PO Box 225, Brookvale NSW 2100
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newable, of course).
88 Silicon Chip
Contact:
Soundlabs Group
PO Box 276 Campbelltown NSW 2560
Tel: (02) 4627 8766 Fax: (02) 9807 7083
Website: www.soundlabsgroup.com.au
Zigbee Wireless Sensors
The Zigbee Wireless (IEEE 802.15.4
protocol) modules from Ocean Controls
can be used in applications such as
industry and building automation where
wide-area monitoring or control is
required. The modules operate in the
2.4GHz license-free band and have a range of 120m (line of sight).
This distance can easily be extended by the use of routers.
The modules can be quickly configured into a Tree-type structure
with a PC connected to a central coordinator and routers allowing
the I/O modules to be distributed around a factory or compound.
The I/O modules feature a temperature/humidity unit, analog
input/output units and digital input/ output units. Ocean Control’s
ISEE-Modbus TCP software can monitor and control the modules
from a PC.
Prices start at Contact:
$149+GST for the Ocean Controls
Wireless I/O modules PO Box 2191, Seaford BC, VIC 3198
and ISEE-ModbusTCP Tel: (03) 9782 5882
Website: www.oceancontrols.com.au
software.
siliconchip.com.au
Altronics’ versatile stereo audio mixer
suits professional or home use
If you’re looking for an audio mixer to suit just about any
application, this one from Altronics could be just the shot!
With up to nine input sources (four main channels are
stereo) and five output channels, this stereo mixer also offers variable echo, repeat and delay, a three-band graphic
equaliser, fader controls between channels two and three
and a program cue selector allowing a DJ to cue upcoming
tracks via headphones.
As you’d expect, each channel has its own level adjustment and there’s a master level control as well. Each of
the four stereo inputs can be switched via the front panel
from mic level (1.5mV/10k) to line level (150mV/22k),
It suits a variety of uses from pro-style DJ work, public
address systems, dubbing audio onto home videos, karaoke
. . . in fact, just about any audio mixing application you
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SparkFun Electronics creates
Department of Education
Lots of Aussie electronics enthusiasts order difficult-toobtain or oddball parts online from SparkFun Electronics, a
US company specialising in helping electronic enthusiasts
get the parts and resources they need.
Now SparkFun is announcing a new department – the
Department of Education.
SparkFun Electronics always has focused on Sharing
Ingenuity – providing extensive online resources as well as
offering a variety of in-house workshops and events. The recent development of a new Department of Education within
SparkFun emphasizes the company’s passion and commitment to providing individuals with the tools they need to
explore the world of embedded electronics.
For more information about Spark- Contact:
Fun’s new Depart- SparkFun Electronics
ment of Education, 6175 Longbow Dve, Suite 200, Boulder, CO 80301
contacteducation<at> Tel: 0011 1 1 303 284 0979
sparkfun.com
Website: www.sparkfun.com
siliconchip.com.au
can think of. Retail
price is $199 (Cat
A2551).
It’s available
from any Altronics store, reseller
or the phone/mail
order/online store.
Contact:
Altronic Distributors Pty Ltd
PO Box 8350, Perth Busn Centre, WA 6849
Tel: 1300 780 999 Fax: 1300 790 999
Website: www.altronics.com.au
Pocket-size decontamination wipes off
toxic dangers to workers
Enware is introducing to Australasia a toxic
chemical Decontamination Mitt, so effective
that versions of it are used by armed forces
to neutralise deadly Chemical Warfare Agents.
The Decon Mitt consists of a pouch containing wipe-down mitt impregnated with
decontaminating powder called FAST-ACT. A
soft pad material is backed on the mitt by a
film, to protect the user from any contamination by substances to which it is applied.
FAST-ACT as used in Decon Mitts is a
non-toxic, non-corrosive and environmentally friendly sorbent
that provides better
chemical protection Contact:
and decontamination Enware Australia Pty Ltd
capabilities than cur- 9 Endeavour Rd, Caringbah NSW 2229
rently available indus- Tel: (02) 9525 9511 Fax: (02) 9525 95367
Website: www.enware.com.au
trial technologies.
WES’ new range of CB radio gear
WES Components have released a PDF showing an
extensive range of UHF and 27MHz CB radio antennas,
mounts, bases, brackets and other goodies.
To have a look at their range, call in to the WES
Showroom (see
right) or log onto Contact:
http://wesnews. WES Components
wescomponents. 138 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield NSW 2131
c o m / w e s n e w s / Tel: (02) 9798 9233 Fax: (02) 9798 0017
Website: www.wagner.net.au
WN204UHF.pdf
June 2011 89
Vintage Radio
By Kevin Poulter
An insight into the manufacture of quality
valve radios in the USA nearly 100 years ago
Radio Manufacturing in 1925:
the Wells Gardner story
This month we take a look at high quality radio manufacturing
during the 1920s in the USA. This was on a much larger scale than
in Australia but the methods were largely the same, with similar
machinery and tools.
I
n the 1920s, radio manufacturing proliferated. Yet
from the thousands of companies that then existed,
few images of production were ever taken or remain.
It was considered a breach of security for an employee to
photograph inside a factory so some factories eventually
closed without a single photograph taken.
Fortunately the US company Wells Gardner produced
some images, most likely for salesmen to show stores that
they were a big operation and not just a suburban garage
or tiny factory. This provides us with wonderful insight into
90 Silicon Chip
the manufacturing techniques of the late 1920s.
In 1925 production started at Wells Gardner with a discussion between the Manager, Sales Manager and Design,
regarding the best radios to meet market trends. In the mid
to late 20s, the only choices were a console radio, a “coffin”
bread-box style, or a mantel in a wooden cabinet – and how
many valves to have in the design. As was common practice,
a number of brands were used, with many consoles and
huge table sets sold under the M. Wards’ “Airline” name.
This strongly influenced the selling price and most manusiliconchip.com.au
facturers had economy and top-end models. It appears that
Wells Gardner mainly supplied the top end of the market,
as many of their radios were nine-valve.
When the design was completed and approved, parts
were ordered in and kept in the secure store. Staff had
no access, as many liked to build their own hobby radios
or knew people that did and may otherwise have ‘lifted’
some parts.
Not having enough of some parts to complete a production run was even worse than the pilfering, as production,
distribution and sales were all then delayed.
siliconchip.com.au
A major part of the production at that time was huge
stacks of fine timber and the best craftsmen to fabricate it
into beautiful cabinets.
The ‘engine room’ generated all of the electric power
required by the factory and offices, due to the generally
unreliable reticulated power at the time.
Many components were made in-house, though most
likely not valves nor capacitors, as they were more specialised. Transformers and coils were definitely made in
the plant, as they often were in Australian factories of the
era. Here women wind and assemble coils.
June 2011 91
included in looms or used singularly for direct links between components.
The following photographs show the construction of a
nine-valve receiver. All the radios were assembled using
the factory jig, with handles to enable easy roll-over of the
chassis.
Transformers made in the factory were tested in a jig,
with seven meters plus an auxiliary meter. The jig’s contacts match the pins on the transformer, and the lever in
the centre applied a little pressure to ensure all contacts
were sound. So the test was essentially automated - place
the transformer upside down on the jig, push on the lever
and switch on.
Looms were made in factory, to connect most of the
components together electrically. A loom jig was a piece
of wood with the loom plan drawn on paper and attached.
Conventional building nails in the wood guided every bend
and other nails indicated the end of each wire’s course.
When all the components were made or purchased in, a
production run commenced. Each section had a supervisor
(you can just see his hat in this photograph) to ensure the
people worked hard and to a good standard. Toilet breaks
were generally not permitted. He was also expected to
ensure the continuous supply of parts to the line.
In the foreground, wires are being cut to length, stripped
on their ends and pre-tinned with solder. Some would
have heat-resistant sleeving added. Prepared wires were
92 Silicon Chip
When a wire was run though to its destination, it was
terminated by winding once around the end nail and then
cut off. On completion, the entire loom was hand-stitched
together and/or bound with cloth strip.
Eighty years later, this exact method is still used to make
custom looms for vehicle restoration.
The male in the centre of the above picture is the supervisor, with his desk in the foreground.
siliconchip.com.au
The Gallery: some of Wells Gardner’s radio masterpieces
92-1929
WG-82
WG-161
Wells-1933
A 1933
console
radio
1933 Airline Superhet
and a closeup of the dial
Five valve chassis WG-30-126-2
These chassis were photographed in a studio,
printed to a large size, air-brushed and retouched,
then the retouched image photographed
again, resulting in the final negative
and print. Today we use Photoshop,
saving an immense amount of time
and cost.
Eight-valve WG-30-106-3 showing top side
and underchassis
The connection loom between the two chassis appears to be
covered by winding a fabric strip over, an early version of the tape
used in later looms.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 93
About these photos:
restoration from glass
negatives by Kevin Poulter*
Production was not easy for the staff. Conditions were
high-pressure and the area poorly lit. Note the 4-gang
variable condensers and the age of the women – from
teens to seniors. The caged area in the rear is most likely
a lockable store.
The final assembly was mainly done by men, with the
woman on the far right probably a long-term employee
with advanced experience. A supervisor stands on the far
right and in the foreground there’s a row of disassembled
jigs, below the desk.
The images in this feature were ‘rescued’ from an American owner and were
reproduced from the original glass-plate
negatives.
The images were top quality, as the photographers almost
certainly shot them in a view (bellows) camera.
It’s likely they had at least one incandescent spot-lamp,
however shutter speeds still needed to be down to about
one second or even longer. The result was at least one of
these images showed double-imaging.
The sheer size of the glass
negatives – four inches x five
inches – overcame the low quality
of the lenses. These intrepid photographers had to load, carry and
process glass plates! Some even
coated their own plates (negatives).
Recently I used Photoshop to restore them to better-thanoriginal. This included lightening the areas where the main
photographic light was much dimmer in the distance, due
to the inverse square law (the phenomena where doubling
the distance reduces illumination to approximately one
quarter). Other than the restoration mentioned, the images
are identical to the day they were photographed.
As recently as the 1950s to 1970s, radio and television
factory employees in Australia still worked in conditions
similar to those shown here, seated in long rows, with the
women doing the most repetitive work and men doing more
advanced functions, like design, cabinet crafting and final
testing.
* Kevin Poulter is a professional photographer based in Melbourne.
You can see more of Kevin’s work at www.imageaustralia.info
On completion, the radios were packed in wooden boxes,
then when ready for shipping, were loaded into a rail car
at the company’s own rail siding.
SC
The final test bench has custom-built test equipment,
Burgess “B” batteries, plus wet cells near the floor and
spare valves if needed. The photograph is so clear, some
boxes of RCA UX-280 valves can be seen at the top and a
row of valves in the centre. There’s a screwdriver, radio pliers, soldering iron and an open end spanner on hand too.
94 Silicon Chip
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SELF ON AUDIO
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00
See
Review
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and advanced April
2011
levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a copy,
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 474 pages in paperback.
along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $88.00
PIC IN PRACTICE
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students and
teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the world
of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introduc-
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $81.00
tory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition
focuses entirely on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and
12F675. 226 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
By Carter & Mancini – 3RD EDITION $100.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting
up a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered in this
176-page paperback book.
Substantially updates coverage for low-speed and high-speed applications,
and provides step-by-step walk-throughs for design and selection of op
amps. Huge 648 pages!
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
USING UBUNTU LINUX
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by J Rolfe & A Edney – published 2007 $27.00
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00
Ubuntu Linux is a free and easy-to-use operating system, a viable alternative to Windows and Mac OS. Introduces Ubuntu, tells how to set it up,
covers the various Open Office applications and gives troubleshooting
hints and tips. Highly recommended. 222 pages in paperback
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal
for engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics
and sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
See
Review
Feb
2004
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2006 $61.00
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters
and receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
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PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
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Intended for non-specialist users of electric motors and drives,
filling the gap between academic texts and general "handbooks".
Explores all of the widely-used modern types of motor and drive
including conventional & brushless DC, induction motors, steppers, servos, synchronous and reluctance. 384 pages, soft cover.
e
Review
Feb
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
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by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00
286 pages in soft cover.
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
AC MACHINES
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor Control
and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, single-phase motors,
synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160 pages in paperback.
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SELF ON AUDIO
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00
See
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 474 pages in paperback.
Review
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and advanced April
2011
levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a copy,
along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
PIC IN PRACTICE
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $88.00
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students and
teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the world
of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introduc-
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
tory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $81.00
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition
focuses entirely on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and
12F675. 226 pages in paperback.
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
By Carter & Mancini – 3RD EDITION $100.00
Substantially updates coverage for low-speed and high-speed applications,
and provides step-by-step walk-throughs for design and selection of op
amps. Huge 648 pages!
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting
up a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered in this
176-page paperback book.
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
USING UBUNTU LINUX
by J Rolfe & A Edney – published 2007 $27.00
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
Ubuntu Linux is a free and easy-to-use operating system, a viable alternative to Windows and Mac OS. Introduces Ubuntu, tells how to set it up,
covers the various Open Office applications and gives troubleshooting
hints and tips. Highly recommended. 222 pages in paperback
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal
for engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics
and sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
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2004
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2006 $61.00
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
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ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes - Third edition 2006 $51.00
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
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286 pages in soft cover.
AC MACHINES
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
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Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
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by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
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ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
How accurate is GPS
speed measurement?
I have noticed that in the work car,
to drive at 110km/h by the GPS unit
(a well-known brand) I need to drive
at close to 125km/h by the vehicle’s
speedometer. While I realise that the
car speedometer is probably reading
high, I am aware that the GPS unit
approximates the Earth’s surface and
therefore potentially also is in error.
Using the other traffic as a guide,
I expect that the GPS unit is reading
fairly accurately but given the expense
should I get it wrong, I was wondering
how much of an error will the GPS unit
produce – is it close enough that the
“grace factor” applied by the speed
camera units cover the potential error
of the unit? (T. M., Paradise, SA).
• This topic of large vehicle speedometer error has been discussed in the
past and is a consequence of the Australian Design Rules which specify that
the speedo must be optimistic (ie, give
a high reading) while the odometer is
supposed to be highly accurate.
Your experience is typical. While
there is bound to be a small GPS speed
measurement error you can expect it
to be less than 1%. By comparison, vehicle speedos are typically 8-9% high
in their readings at speeds of 100km/h
or more. Be warned though, vehicle
speedometers are usually fairly accurate between 40km/h and 70km/h.
So don’t go above the speedo indication in areas with these speed limits
otherwise you risk being booked.
self-discharge from taking the battery
below 11.5V which will cause it to fail.
In other circumstances, with larger
batteries, float charging is recommended (see the answer below).
Is there any point in
float charging?
Seldom-used batteries
need float charging
I have a number of devices that use
12V SLA batteries in charge/discharge
service, some of them only occasionally. When fully charged, the charge
drops back to a trickle, about 10mA. I
notice that if I disconnect the charger
completely for days or even weeks, on
reconnection it charges for about 20
seconds before dropping back to float.
So it would appear that I am only
wasting power (about 15W in total) by
leaving these things on continuously.
So is there any benefit in leaving them
on permanent float? Despite spending
a lot of time trawling the net, I have
been unable to find a satisfactory answer to this. (G. H., Mt Martha, Vic).
• SLA battery manufacturers recommend a float voltage between 13.5V
and 13.8V to maintain charge and to
provide maximum battery life. If you
have a battery-operated device which
is normally off then there is probably
not a lot of point in leaving it on float
charge. However, you will need to
charge it from time to time to prevent
A friend in Melbourne recently
asked my opinion as to whether SLA
batteries should be constantly float
charged. I said “yes”.
The slightly higher voltage on the
float charge prevents the formation of
a permanent lead-sulphate layer on
the lead electrodes. Once a sulphate
layer has formed, it creates a barrier
between the positive and negative
plates, resulting in a higher internal
resistance and decreased capacity of
the cell. If this lead-sulphate becomes
permanent due to a lack of recharging,
it becomes an inert substance in the
charge and discharge process.
His concern was that, to float charge
two SLA batteries (one in a golf caddy
and the other in an electric bicycle),
the chargers continually used 12W. In
winter, the batteries stood unused for
many months, which seemed to be a
lot of wasted power.
I thought that without float charging,
the battery capacity would shrink a
lot faster. I suggested that a more ef-
Preamplifier For A Flexible Piezo Film Sensor
I’d like to use the Pre-Champ
(SILICON CHIP, July 1994) to amplify the signal from a flexible
piezo film sensor – see http://www.
meas-spec.com/product/t_product.
aspx?id=2478#
However, what would I need to
do to match the Pre-Champ to such
a high-impedance load – possibly
two, either in series or in parallel?
I’m not too sure at this stage if it
would be worse for bass response.
Is there a frequency response chart
available for the Pre-Champ pream98 Silicon Chip
plifier? (P. S., Lane Cove, NSW).
• The data sheet indicates that the
recommended load impedance is
10MΩ, which you would need to
get maximum bass response from
the sensor. With this in mind, the
Pre-Champ is never going to the job.
Besides which, its -3dB bass roll-off
is at 72Hz – not good enough, in all
probability.
Instead, we suggest that use the
single-transistor preamplifier circuit
featured in Circuit Notebook in June
2002. This could be lashed up on the
PreChamp PCB and does provide a
load impedance of 10MΩ.
Note that the potential output of
the sensor could range up to several
hundred volts and this could be
a real problem with the suggested
preamplifier (or any other preamplifier, for that matter). If you are
proposing to use it on a musical
instrument, the signals might not
be that strong.
You might need to check the likely
signal amplitude with a scope, using
a 10MΩ probe.
siliconchip.com.au
Using LEDs With The Digital Lighting Controller
Would it be possible to include
a low voltage output option for the
Digital Lighting Controller (SILICON
CHIP, October - December 2010)
slave unit so that strings of LED
lights could be connected directly?
This would then take the place of
the multifunction controllers that
lights in the shops use, especially
when they fail after a year. (L. B.,
Auckland, NZ).
• If your LEDs run off AC (some do)
then the Digital Lighting Controller
can drive them directly with some
minor modifications.
Essentially, this just involves
changing the mains connectors (both
input and output) to something suitable for hooking up low-voltage AC.
The slave module is slightly less
efficient switching low voltage AC
but it should work.
For DC-powered LED strings,
it certainly is possible to build a
Mosfet-based slave module (alternaficient (switchmode?) battery charger
might help.
However, after some further thought
I came up with another idea. He
could use his chargers, which could
be switched on and off using a time
switch, with a duty cycle of perhaps on
for one hour in 24 hours. This might be
sufficient to reverse the sulphate layer
before it became permanent (the battery manufacturers would have data
on this). His electricity usage would
certainly be lower. Is there a better
way? (A. F., Chinderah, NSW).
• You are correct in recommending
float charging in these applications.
Leaving batteries to self-discharge over
a period of many months, particularly
in winter, is a big mistake as these batteries can be very expensive to replace.
It is even more important when applied to batteries in boats. These can
be left for long periods and if they are
not kept on float charge, they will be
dead when you next need to use them.
And we can vouch for the fact that boat
batteries are very expensive, as is the
cost of installation. Heavy batteries in
awkward confined boat engine rooms
can add up to lots of dosh.
In this particular case though, the
original charger may start up in fast
charge mode each time the timer powsiliconchip.com.au
tively, Darlington transistors could
be used). Ideally, this would contain
an adjustable current sink for each
channel although many LED strings
run directly off 12V, which would
simplify the design. The same logic
IC arrangement could be used as in
the AC slave, with the Darlington
array and following components
changed over.
In either case, the same master
module can be used with a line in
the configuration file to indicate
which slave(s) are controlling DC
loads. This is not strictly necessary
but improves brightness control because with a DC load, brightness is
proportional to duty cycle but with
an AC load, it actually varies with
the area under a sine curve.
By default the master module
compensates for this; the added line
in the configuration file disables that
compensation for better brightness
linearity.
ered it up. This may cause the battery
to be initially boosted to the cut-off
voltage before switching to absorption
(if this is incorporated) and then to
float. This could be worse for the battery as it would effectively be cycled
between the two voltages. This would
need to be checked.
A switchmode float charger might
be best to use once the batteries have
been charged by the main charger. The
switchmode float charger could be
cycled on and off with a timer.
Explanation of
open-collector outputs
I have a comparator powered from a
15V rail. One of its inputs is fed with
a 10V reference and other with the
voltage it is comparing. I would like its
output to go into my microcontroller.
Now the comparator (LM311) has
an open collector output which means
it’ll need a pull-up resistor. But what
I am unsure of is what do I pull it up
to? Can it be 5V? Then it will be at the
right level to interface to the micro or
will it have to go through a zener diode
to get down to the 5V level? Or does it
have to be pulled up to its own supply?
My second question is this: I wish to
get a 5V supply for a microcontroller
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and a couple of LEDs from either a
AA or AAA battery using some sort of
step-up regulator. Could you suggest
any that come in an 8-pin package and
are reasonably simple to work with?
(B. W., via email).
• The LM311 comparator output is
“open collector”. This means that the
collector of the output transistor is
not connected internally. It requires
an external resistor to a positive supply rail so that the output will be low
when the transistor is switched on and
it will be pulled high via the resistor
when the transistor is off.
The open-collector feature means
that the output can be pulled higher
or lower to different supply rail from
that feeding the LM311 comparator
itself. For example, the comparator
might be run from a 15V DC rail and
the open-collector might be pulled via
the resistor to a 5V supply. This could
be useful in driving TTL circuitry or
CMOS circuitry running from +5V. In
your case, the pull-up resistor could
be 10kΩ, for example.
A step-up supply running from one
or two AA or AAA cells can be made
using a TL499A. This was used in the
June 2011 99
Latch-Up Problem In Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier Preamp
A year or two ago I built the UltraLD 2 x 100W Stereo Amplifier. Its
sound quality is superb but it has
had one irritating problem ever since
its completion that I can’t solve.
Normally at switch-on, the bargraph LEDs flash momentarily and
all is well. However, quite often
they don’t and when that happens,
the bargraphs don’t work when a
signal is applied and the output is
distorted as well. The only cure is
to switch the amplifier off and on
again. However, it may take two or
three attempts before the amplifier
“boots up” properly.
Investigation shows that, when
it is not working properly, there is
no positive voltage from the 7815
voltage regulator, even though the
input voltage is there. The negative
supply from the 7915 is OK.
I have replaced the 7815 voltage
regulator and all components fed by
it including the two TL072 bargraph
buffers, the two 5534 preamp ICs,
and the electrolytic capacitor between the output of the regulator and
earth. I didn’t replace the other electros that straddle the positive and
Water Tank Level Meter in the November 2007 issue and the 3-9V DC-DC
Converter in March 2004.
Alternatively, the MC34063A could
be used and this was the basis of the
August 1992 step-up converter design.
LM2917 frequency-tovoltage converter
I have built the frequency-to voltage
converter featured in the Circuit Notebook pages of the June 2010 issue. This
was designed to allow air-flow sensors which have a variable frequency
output to be used with your Voltage
Interceptor published in “Performance
Electronics for Cars” (a SILICON CHIP
publication).
I am having trouble getting an output voltage close to 4V at the maximum
frequency range of 100Hz to 150Hz.
When the 10kΩ resistor is connected
to the output and pins 5 & 10 bridged,
the result is about 250mV. Readings
without the 10kΩ resistor are a static
2.3V and only vary by about 2mV with
adjustment of trimpot VR1.
100 Silicon Chip
negative regulator outputs because
they seem to be OK. The problem,
however, persists and I’m getting to
the “wit’s end” department.
I wondered if, at switch-on, the
regulator might be seeing the discharged electros as a short-circuit
and cutting out but why does this
only happen sometimes and why is
the negative side not affected? Please
can you shed any light on this perplexing problem? (J. P., via email).
• Interestingly, we would not have
had a definitive answer for this problem up until a few months ago and
we would have simply advised you
to check for defective components or
bad soldering. However, in developing the Universal Voltage Regulator
board that was presented in the
March 2011 issue, we discovered
that there is a serious problem when
you have a pair of 7815/7915 or other
7800/7900 series regulators fed by
positive and negative half-wave
rectifiers. That is the exact situation
in the preamp board of the Ultra-LD
100W Stereo Amplifier.
What happens is that, depending
on whether the positive or negative
I also note that there is no variance
in voltage on pin 2 with adjustments
to the input frequency. Pin 2 shows
900mV static at all input frequencies
and pin 3 only has 2mV (also static).
All input voltages to pins 8, 9 & 11
match those in the article. Any help
would be very much appreciated. (F.
E., via email).
• The LM2917 is available in many
variants. The circuit shown in the June
2010 issue is for the LM2917N. Other
LM2917s have different pin outs and
you will need to check this before
connecting up a circuit.
As published, the circuit is set for
a nominal 40-400Hz range. For your
narrow frequency range, the output
will vary from 4V at 150Hz to 2.7V at
100Hz. The 10kΩ resistor is required
between pins 5 & 10 to ground as the
output is an emitter follower and the
resistor provides the load.
The circuit will not work if the input
signal does not swing over and below
a 0.55V range. For more sensitivity
use a lower value resistor instead of
the 1kΩ value at pin 11.
rail comes up first, the regulator
which turns on first will pull the
complementary regulator’s output
up (or down) to the point where
it latches up and prevents normal
operation from occurring. In your
case, the 7915 is turning on first
and in charging its associated 100µF
capacitor and the two 10µF capacitors across the two output rails, it
actually pulls the output of the 7815
below 0V.
The poor old 7815 interprets this
as an overload condition and latches
up. So you have to turn the unit on
and off maybe several times to get the
correct power-up condition.
As far as we can determine, this
fault condition only occurs with
certain brands of regulator which is
why we didn’t see it when we were
developing the Ultra-LD 2 x 100W
Stereo Amplifier back in 2001.
The solution is to connect reversebiased diodes across each regulator’s
output. You can see how we did this
in the Universal Regulator circuit, in
Fig.4 on page 40 of the March 2011
issue. The diodes in question are
D5 and D6.
Pin 2 switches charge to the capacitor at pin 3 and measuring the voltage
at pin 2 does not indicate much about
what is happening.
Using the Tempmaster
to control an incubator
I would like to use my Tempmaster
Mk2 to control a 300W heater in my
poultry egg incubator. The required
temperature is 37°C. Is it possible
to adjust the resistor values in the
“temperature set” circuit to extend the
range of the Tempmaster to cover this
temperature? (S. A., Echunga, SA ).
• Yes, it is quite easy to adjust the
resistor values in the temperature set
part of the Tempmaster Mk2 circuit, to
allow it to maintain a temperature of
37°C. In fact, there is only one resistor
value that needs to be changed: the
resistor from TP1 to the +5V line (pin
3 of REG1).
If you change this resistor’s value
from 2.7kΩ to 2.2kΩ, this will give
VR1 an adjustment range from 3.00V to
3.166V, corresponding to temperatures
siliconchip.com.au
from 27°C to 43.6°C. The temperature
will be set to your desired value of
37°C when VR1 is then adjusted to give
a DC voltage of 3.10V at TP1.
Charge controller for
power-tool batteries
Have you any articles on building
a charger controller for power tool
nicads? I have tried unsuccessfully
with the temperature measurement
method but am interested in a final
voltage sensor/switch off.
• We did publish a Power Tool Charging Controller in the December 2006
issue and there was a companion
article was in the same issue entitled
“Bringing A Dead Cordless Drill Back
To Life”. This controller uses the rate
of change in temperature at full charge
(dT/dt). It also has over-temperature
cut-out and a back-up timer is included.
NiMH and nicad cells cannot be
checked for full charge by measuring
their terminal voltage. This voltage is
dependent on many factors, including
temperature, charge rate, cell chemistry and the size of the cell. Instead,
end of charge can be detected by the
change (fall) in voltage at full charge
or via the rapid rise in temperature. In
practice, the change in voltage can be
small and is difficult to detect reliably.
Car battery
tester wanted
Would you consider a project for
a car battery tester with a load that
can be varied according to the battery
capacity? (D. M., via email).
• Have you seen our Battery Condition Checker from the August 2009
issue? This should do the job for you.
It uses Mosfets to briefly drag current
pulses from the battery and it measures
the battery output impedance.
The current pulse amplitude can be
set to suit the size of the battery.
Minivox voice-operated
relay is latched on
I purchased a Minivox Voice-Activated Relay kit (SILICON CHIP, September 1994) from Jaycar in Melbourne.
When connecting it to a 12VDC power
source the LED and relay activate
without the action of the electret microphone. The relay and LED remain
on. I have checked the connections
siliconchip.com.au
Substitute Wanted For A Cassette Recorder
I tape our church service each
Sunday so that “shut-ins” can hear
the service during the week. The
120-minute tapes I use are becoming
hard to get. I use just one side per
service to save changing it over and
perhaps missing something.
Unfortunately, a 60-minute cassette is often not enough. Could I
use a DVD recorder instead and burn
a DVD each week? If so, I assume
I would have much more than 60
minutes of recording time available?
Some time ago, I tried using a
VCR but must have done something
wrong as I got nothing. If I did use
a DVD, I would also have to buy a
portable DVD player as many old
folk may not have a means to play
it. (B. P., via email).
• Unfortunately there is no simple
replacement for the cassette recorder. Generally the best solution
is to record so that a CD can be made
instead. This involves recording to
a memory and then transferring to
the CD.
and polarity according to the diagram
and markings of the circuit board and
all is correct.
When reading some past letters on
this kit there appears to be some confusion about the correct diodes and their
positioning/polarity orientation, etc. Is
there a problem like this with the kit I
have purchased? If not, what could the
problem be? (I. G., via email).
• There was some confusion over the
diodes in the Minivox project article.
In particular, diode D1 should be orientated so that its anode is connected
to the negative supply. Diode D3 on
the PCB should be diode D4 and D4
should be D3. The orientation of D4
should be with the anode to the collector of Q1. The cathode (K) end of
the diode has a stripe.
However, these problems would
have been fixed in the Jaycar kit instructions. If in doubt, contact kits<at>
jaycar.com.au
Check the pin 7 output of IC1b. This
normally should be at about 0V. If it
is above 3V or so, then there must be
voltage at pin 5 that is above the voltage at pin 6. Pin 6 should be about 2V.
If Pin 7 is at about 0V, transistor Q1
CD recorders are available but are
not as simple to operate as a cassette
recorder. You can record to memory
using a computer or specialised
digital recorder. One such device
is the Gemini iKEY recorder that
records in high-quality to a USB
flash memory drive. Other recorders
include the many MP3 players that
have a record function.
A CD is the best medium to provide because most people will have
a CD player, including the older
people who find it difficult to get
out of the home. Many would still
have a cassette player but it may not
be working due to the drive belts
that perish.
A DVD recorder might work but
we are not sure if a DVD recorder
will record just audio when there
is no video signal present although
that could easily be provided using
a video test generator.
We may look at the possibility of
producing a high-quality recorder
based on an SD card.
could have a short between emitter and
collector or there is a short on the PCB.
Any voltage at pin 5 would mean
that there is noise picked up by the
microphone and signal is present at
pin 1 of IC1. Or the 100nF capacitor
at pin 1 is a short circuit or there is a
short on the PCB.
Varying the gain of the
PreChamp preamplifier
I built the 2-transistor PreChamp
Preamplifier (SILICON CHIP, July 1994)
to run electrets for a CB radio and it’s
a ripper.
I want to know if it’s possible to put
a variable pot somewhere to reduce the
gain as sometimes it’s very sensitive?
I have tried a few points on the board
but have not been successful. If it is
possible, what value pot should I use
and where does it go? (J. P., via email).
• The 100Ω resistor at the emitter
of Q1 can be increased to reduce the
gain. And ideally, the 22µF capacitor
should also be reduced in proportion
to the increase in resistance.
For example, if the 100Ω resistor
is changed to 470Ω, the 22µF capaciJune 2011 101
Next month in SILICON CHIP: July 2011
Ultra-LD Mk.3 Amplifier Module:
This is a major update of the Ultra-LD audio amplifier module presented in the August & September 2008 issues and
incredibly, has even lower distortion. The new design provides a VBE multiplier transistor to easily set the quiescent
current and address the shortcomings of the internal tracking diodes in the ThermalTrak power transistors. As well, it
now incorporates 2-pole high-frequency compensation and some other small modifications to greatly improve THD.
Lightning Radio Warning Indicator
Designed around an TA7642 AM radio chip, this simple circuit will give an audio warning of lightning strikes from approaching thunderstorms – could be a life saver for trekkers, boaties and campers.
UHF Rudder Indicator
A boon for anyone with a twin motor cruiser, this UHF linked indicator will constantly tell you how the rudders are set.
This is essential when doing low-speed manoeuvres such as docking and picking up a mooring when all steering is
done with motor control.
Note: these features are in the process of preparation for publication and barring unforeseen circumstances, will be in the
issue.
ON-SALE: Wednesday, 29th June 2011
tor would be reduced to 4.7µF. The
capacitor change maintains the lowfrequency rolloff at about 72Hz.
PICProbe modes
are settable
I built up one of the PICProbes as
described in the October 2007 issue
of your magazine from a kit supplied
from Jaycar. It seems to work but it’s
doing something a little odd – the red
LED is constantly on until it is connected to a logic zero output. Probing
a “state zero” will result in the green
LED lighting and a pulse from the orange LED. Pushing the button results
in the orange LED latching.
Is this correct operation as per the
original design or is something wrong?
(P. M., Wollongong, NSW).
• For the red LED to be on unless the
probe is connected to 0V indicates that
the probe is in the mode where a pull-
up is enabled. This pull-up resistor can
be disabled by holding the pushbutton
in during power up. The probe should
then have a floating input and the LED
state is not defined until the input
connects to a logic high (red LED on)
or logic low with the green LED on.
If the orange LED stays on (with
a press of the pushbutton), then the
probe is probably set for the latching
mode. This can be disabled by holding
the button in for two seconds.
Large digital display
could provoke road rage
Here is a project idea: a large alphanumeric static display you put in
the back window of your car. In my
case it would display three words sequentially when a button was pushed:
“BACK OFF FOOL”.
Maybe it could have several messages selectable on a console. I would
Notes & Errata
Digital Lighting Controller, October 2010: in the Master Unit circuit
(pages 40-41), the connections for
pins 4 & 5 of IC1 are reversed. The
PCB pattern is correct.
The Microchip PIC32 (March
2011): on page 21, line 2 of the
program listing is incorrect, it
should read:
#pragma config FNOSC=FRCPLL,
FPLLIDIV=DIV_2, FPLLMUL=MUL_20,
FPLLODIV=DIV_4
certainly make one. (J. D., via email).
• You can already buy large moving
marquee displays to perform that function. Mind you, with all the road rage
these days, it might not be a good idea
SC
to provoke some people.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
102 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in SILICON CHIP
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
High quality
Realistic prices
Free software updates
Large range of adaptors
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
C O N T R O L S
Tough times
demand innovative solutions!
IMAGECRAFT C COMPILERS
ANSI C compilers, Windows IDE
AVR, TMS430, ARM7/ARM9
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
www.grantronics.com.au
Yes, it’s true! Don’t let its tiny size fool you. This powerhouse
receiver covers the AM, FM, LW and entire SW bands from 35 to to30MHz
3.5
30MHz– –andandhashasgenuine
genuinedigital
Digitalsignal
Signalprocessing!
Processing!
Exclusive to Avcomm,
the Tecsun PL-310
DSP normally sells
for $90.00 (plus
p&h) but if you say
you saw it in SILICON
CHIP, Avcomm will give
you an amazing10% off!
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
2 x 100MSa/s 10bit inputs + trigger
100MHz bandwidth
8 x digital inputs
4M samples/input
Sig-gen + spectrum analyser
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WOW! A QUALITY DSP
HF COMMUNICATIONS
RECEIVER FOR 10% OFF?
Hurry - stocks are limited. Call
Avcomm now - (02) 9939 4377
Made in Australia, used by OEMs world-wide
splat-sc.com
Modules
537Kits,
and Boxes
Innovative & affordable
projects for hobby,
school & industry
Shop on-line at:
www.kitstop.com.au
electronics-the fun starts here
For more details visit www.avcomm.com.au
Battery Packs & Chargers
3”,5”
7”,9”
10”
Super
Bright
Displays
Siomar Battery Engineering
FOR SALE
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 8005 6732.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
LEDs! Nichia, Cree and other brand
name LEDs at excellent prices. LED
drivers, including ultra-reliable linear
driver options. Many other interesting
and hard-to-find electronic items!
www.ledsales.com.au
questronix.com.au – audiovisual experts solve home, corporate security
and devotional installation & editing
woes. QuestAV CYP, Kramer TVone
(02) 4343 1970 or sales<at>questronix.
com.au
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others. Ph
(02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.com.
au; www.rcsradio.com.au
WANTED
CUSTOMERS WANTED: Truscotts
Electronic World – large range of semiconductors and passive components for
industry, hobbyist and amateur projects
CLASSIFIED ADVERISING RATES
Advertising rates for these pages: Classified ads: $29.50 (incl. GST) for
up to 20 words plus 85 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $54.50
(incl. GST) per column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: 5 weeks prior
to month of sale. To book, email the text to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and
include your name, address & credit card details, or fax (02) 9939 2648, or
phone (02) 9939 3295.
siliconchip.com.au
www.batterybook.com
Phone (08) 9302 5444
including Drew Diamond. 27 The Mall,
South Croydon, Melbourne. Phone (03)
9723 3860. sales<at>electronicworld.
com.au
KIT ASSEMBLY
KEITH RIPPON KIT ASSEMBLY &
REPAIR:
* Australia & New Zealand;
* Small production runs.
Phone Keith 0409 662 794.
keith.rippon<at>gmail.com
June 2011 103
Do you eat,
breathe
and sleep
TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities exist for
experienced Sales Professionals
& Store Management across
Australia & NZ
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian owned, international
retailer with more than 60 stores in Australia and New Zealand. Due
to our aggressive expansion program we are seeking dedicated sales
professionals to join our retail team to assist us in achieving our goals. We
pride ourselves on technical expertise from our staff. Do you think that the
following statements describe you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of core electronics, particularly at a component level
Retail experience, highly regarded
Assemble projects or kits yourself for your car, computer, audio etc
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys helping people
Opportunities for future advancement and development
Why not do something you love and get paid for it?
Please email us your applicaton & CV in PDF format, including location
preference. We offer a competitive salary, sales incentive and have a
generous staff purchase policy. Applications should be emailed to
jobs <at> jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an Equal Opportunity Employer
& actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Advertising Index
Altronics.............................loose insert
Amateur Scientist CDs................... IBC
Avcomm......................................... 103
Dick Smith................................... 26-27
Digi-Key Corporation.......................... 3
Dyne Industries................................ 12
Emona Instruments.......................... 59
EV Power....................................... 103
Futurewave Energy Solutions.......... 79
Grantronics.................................... 103
Harbuch........................................... 99
Hare & Forbes.............................. OBC
HK Wentworth.................................... 6
Instant PCBs.................................. 103
Jaycar .......................... IFC,49-56,104
Keith Rippon.................................. 103
Kitstop............................................ 103
LED Sales...................................... 103
Microchip Technology......................... 7
Ocean Controls................................ 10
Quest Electronics........................... 103
CIRCUIT IDEAS WANTED
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
We pay up to $100 for contributions
to Circuit Notebook or you could win
a piece of test gear. send your circuit
idea to: Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
www.iinet.net.au/~worcom
RCS Radio..................................... 103
WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
PO Box 631, Hillarys, WA 6923
Ph: (08) 9307 7305 Fax: (08) 9307 7309
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net.au
RF Modules................................... 104
Satcam Pty Ltd................................ 11
Sesame Electronics....................... 103
Silicon Chip Binders....................... 104
Issues Getting
Dog-Eared?
REAL
VALUE
AT
$14.95
PLUS P
&
P
Are your SILICON CHIP copies
getting damaged or dog-eared
just lying around in a cupboard
or on a shelf? Can you quickly
find a particular issue that
you need to refer to?
Keep your copies of SILICON CHIP safe, secure
and always available with these handy binders
Available Aust, only. Price: $A14.95 plus $10.00 p&p per order (includes
GST). Just fill in and mail the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02)
9939 2648; or call (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
104 Silicon Chip
Silicon Chip Bookshop................ 96-97
Silicon Chip Order Form.................. 95
Silicon Chip Subscriptions............... 13
Siomar Battery Engineering........ 9,103
Solar Energy Store.......................... 21
Soundlabs Group............................... 8
Splat Controls................................ 103
Truscotts Electronic World............. 103
Wagner Electronics.......................... 61
Wiltronics........................................... 5
Worldwide Elect. Components....... 104
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON CHIP
designs can be obtained from RCS
Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738 0330.
Fax (02) 9738 0331.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2011 105
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