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Not long ago, Queensland endured some of the worst
flooding on record. During this time I was offered the
opportunity to recover some radio receivers that
would otherwise have ended up as landfill.
SALVAGING
ELECTRONICS
AFTER THE FLOOD
T
he equipment concerned was
ex-Army communication receivers, Rohde and Schwarz
ESMC 0.5-650MHz, about fifteen
years old. The receivers were stored
in a shed that that went to the roof
in floodwater and remained so for a
day or two.
The owner had picked them up
at auction and was in the process of
selling them on a popular internet
auction site.
Electronics gear, especially the older
stuff, is like artwork – its beauty is in
the eye of the beholder.
Where some would have turfed
these straight on the scrap heap, the
magpie nature in me couldn’t resist a
challenge. Rohde and Schwarz equipment is well built and has a good name,
so I picked up six of the better looking
units to take home and repair.
The rest were consigned to the pile
of ruined memories on the footpath
outside, like the contents of so many
other flood-affected houses in our area.
If you are going to try this sort of
flood recovery of electronic equipment you need to pick your targets.
Some things, like speakers and gear
22 Silicon Chip
with non-removable batteries can be
a lost cause.
As with most flood events, the effects on equipment change with many
different factors. Floodwater might be
clean, like rainwater runoff or a broken
pipe; the flood event may only last a
few minutes or even seconds.
In this flood, the water was brown,
silt-laden (and who knows what else)
and lasted a day or two, the water
backing up a small creek that led to
the local river.
The longer gear is submerged in the
flood water, the more it will accumulate silt and muck. The last local flood
of this calibre was in 1974 and most
places were flooded for a week or more.
After that length of time immersed in
flood water, equipment recovery gets
very difficult.
Each situation requires its own assessment as to the worthiness of an
attempted recovery and special consideration needs to be given to high
voltage and mains-powered gear.
Never try to power up electrical
by Robert Googe
equipment that has come in contact with
water until it has been fully checked by
a suitably experienced person.
And remember your personal
hygiene: flood water can contain all
sorts of contaminants, from industrial
chemicals to raw sewage. If you are at
all suspicious about any contaminants,
use gloves and wash your hands! Even
a face mask might not go astray.
Having never really attempted flood
recovery before, it was time to sit
down and have a think about how to
go about this.
More speed, less haste!
Time is the enemy but I had
other commitments for a few days
and could not begin the rescue
process straight away. So the first
thing I did was take freely available oxygen out of the equation –
the less oxygen available, the slower
the corrosion process.
How would I do that? Well, counterintuitive as it may seem, I drowned the
equipment/gear again.
I figured that if I could cover the
receivers with clean and (almost) ionfree water from our rainwater tank, I
siliconchip.com.au
Just as they were about to be auctioned off on
the internet, the once-in-a-lifetime flood decided to
wreak its havoc (for the second time this lifetime!). Some of these Rohde and Schwartz
receivers were consigned to the scrap heap
. . . but I couldn’t resist having a go at trying
to clean some of them up and get them going!
could achieve several things; give the
gear/equipment a good flush of clean
water, removing some of the silt and
reducing the oxygen availability that
would have been higher in air.
Initially I was stumped as to how
I was going to achieve this, as these
units aren’t exactly on the small side,
about as big as a size 13 shoe box (yes,
I should know!). Something large
enough to completely submerge them,
obviously water tight . . . Then it hit
me, a wheelie bin!
So the contents of our recycling bin
went onto the ground, the receivers
were stacked up inside and the bin
was filled with water from the tank.
Check for batteries!
It was just as I finished filling the
bin, I realised there was something I
needed to do. The first thing I should
have done was to check for batteries
and disable or, preferably, remove
them.
Batteries in water accelerate corrosion by electrolysis, so removing
them is essential. That’s why so many
“I-xxx” devices made by that fruit
company (as Forrest Gump called
siliconchip.com.au
it) do not survive immersion – the
(non-removable) battery voltage kills
circuitry by corroding, or by the voltage being in places it shouldn’t thanks
to moisture.
Quickly pulling apart one of the
units, I found there was a rechargeable
Nicad backup battery on the processor
board. I did not have time to remove
each battery but it was a simple move
of a jumper to take it out of circuit.
This was done for each unit.
The other enemy is bi-metallic corrosion. This is where two dissimilar
metals can set up an ion flow due to
their atomic structure; water in this
case can promote this process. Thankfully, this did not present a problem in
this case, probably because I was using
tank (and therefore quite pure) water.
Documenation
Documentation is another issue –
the more the better. Unfortunately for
specialised gear such as this (and even
more so as it is ex-military), there’s
very little (read: no!) information
freely available on the Internet. Thank-
Even after
rinsing in
fresh (tank)
water, there
was significant
evidence of the
flood inside.
This pic isn’t
of corrosion or
dust due to age,
it’s good old
Brisbane River
mud. Further
inside, I found
quite a bit of
the Brisbane
River itself!
June 2011 23
Once again, I was surprised
at the lack of “damage”
when I opened the lid after
the big rinse. But delving
down revealed a liberal
coating of dirt and, in some
cases, captured areas of
water. All of these required
thorough cleaning/drying
and testing before there
was even a thought of reapplying power.
fully the original owner could give me
an electronic copy of the operation
manual which did have a short section
on troubleshooting. This included a
few steps on narrowing down any issues and outlined supply voltages etc.
A logical order
Two days later I finally had the time
to take the next step and strip one
of these units. After some thought, I
decided on the following procedure:
• Strip each board, removing covers,
RF shielding, etc.
• Wash each part in a tub of water
with a toothbrush/paintbrush/rag.
• Rinse in rainwater.
• Spray liberally with methylated
spirits (metho).
• Gently blow excess fluid off with
compressed air.
• Suitably label the dismantled components.
• Leave in the hot Queensland sun to
dry (we were actually getting some
by that stage!)
The methylated spirits act as a
dewatering agent, actively excluding
moisture from hard to get at areas. I did
think about using liberal amounts of
WD40 or such but as I wasn’t sure of
its effect on RF gear, it was only used
on some of the connectors.
I also avoided the use of a high pressure washer – this can do more harm
than good by destroying fine parts and
pushing contaminants into inaccessible places. Gentle water flow is best.
The tools I used (apart from screwdrivers, pliers etc) included a digital
camera and notebook to aid reconstruction, an electrical safety tester
and multimeter.
Last in, first out: the receiver at the
top of the pile was duly removed from
the water onto our outdoor table. I
started to remove the panels and was
surprised at how little mud and residue was inside.
The basic construction consists of
a chassis/motherboard, front and rear
panels, transformer, DC-DC power
supply – these units can run from both
AC (100-240VAC/50-440Hz) and DC
(10-32VDC) – and ten shielded boards
that slot into the motherboard with
multiple coaxial cable connections
between boards and to the rear panel.
Take copious notes and pics!
For complex equipment it is impor-
A little daunting, perhaps – but if approached in a logical order, disassembly,
cleaning and reassembly should achieve the desired result. It’s important to handle
the cleaning gently, especially when it comes to things like coils and trimmers.
24 Silicon Chip
tant to spend the time taking notes,
photographs and maybe a little reverse
engineering for diagrams. This will aid
the reconstruction.
A block diagram or rough circuit
will help you understand the operation when it comes time to power on
and you have the inevitable faults.
Back to the job at hand: each of the
boards had a shield front and back,
with some having more push-on tin
shielding inside.
It turned out that this level of
shielding is ideal for water containment! This emphasises the effort and
importance of stripping equipment to
its lowest possible level.
RF/IF boards required careful attention to remove dirt and contaminants,
without the movement of numerous
air wound coils. Removing the brown
mud residue was important; it seemed
to dry well, with little electrical conduction properties.
But leaving this is fraught with danger: the problem with silt-like residue
is that it readily absorbs moisture in
high humidity. This could easily be a
problem in the future with it becoming
conductive and/or corrosive.
The boards themselves seemed to
have a protective coating – again this
helped in the restoration. Any socketed chips were carefully removed and
cleaned, as were their sockets.
While most modern components
are impervious to methylated spirits,
one problem with using it was that it
attacked the dyes on the coaxial cable
labels. It did not remove them completely but it is worth keeping this in
mind when you spray it around – as
the commercial cleaners say, test on a
small area first.
The other point to note is that methylated spirits is extremely flammable
and due care must be taken when using it, especially from a spray-bottle.
The power supply
The DC-DC switch-mode power
supply PCB was removed from its
covers and given the same treatment
as the boards.
The mains transformer was more
difficult. It was a toroidal type which
on first look seemed to be sealed. But
on close inspection I could see internal
droplets of condensation on the clear
wrapping. I just had to let it bake in the
hot sun and hope for the best.
Other devices that could trap water,
such as trimpots, switches and connecsiliconchip.com.au
Even if I do say so
myself, the clean-up and
restoration job has come
up a treat. The receivers
probably look a darnedsight better than when
they were taken out of
service. Of course, there’s
been a little bit of “elbow
grease” between then and
now!
tors could only be dried with the rest
of the board and “hope for the best”.
Sunbaking in Queensland
So there we had it. What seemed like
a thousand screws later the whole unit
was reduced to its component parts,
cleaned and placed on a tarp in the
sun, baking.
After a full day of sun, the parts were
covered, left overnight, then around
mid-morning the following day, the
unit was re-assembled while each part
was still hot from the sun. The power
transformer had lost its droplets of
moisture, the power switch was no
longer weeping when pressed – not
a sign of moisture anywhere. Fingers
(and everything else!) crossed . . .
By this stage I had done two units
and it had taken most of two days –
you have to be keen! The next step I
took was to unplug the rear fan from
the power supply and connect it to my
bench supply.
Each of the fans was connected
to an independent supply and run.
Both were fine, no unusual noise,
they sounded just like, well, electric
fans. I decided to let the fans run for
another two days, drawing air through
the units and hopefully removing any
further moisture.
Then came the electrical safety
tests. As with any piece of electrical
equipment, mains insulation needs to
be intact (greater than 1M at a test
voltage of 500V).
Using a multimeter may give the
same resistance reading but only with
an applied voltage of a few volts. It
is important to test with an electrical safety tester for this reason – the
insulation needs to stand up to 500V
without breaking down.
Obviously, low voltage equipment
doesn’t have this requirement.
To do a safety test, make sure the
power switch is on and all AC mains
siliconchip.com.au
circuits are connected and then simply
short active and neutral of the mains
plug and measuring between there
and ground.
Unit 1 was fine but unit 2 was
measuring only a few thousand ohms!
This turned out to be the heatshrink
covering over the power switch connections trapping dirt and moisture.
Removing the heatshrink and a spray
of WD40 fixed that.
Applying power came next. All
boards were popped from their sockets, so the DC supply was only connected to the motherboard.
Initially I tested the unit from DC
using a 12V car battery. The DC supply
burst into life and all voltages were
correct – so far, so good.
Next the AC – I connected it to the
mains and powered up – again fine.
Plugging in all the boards, reconnecting the coaxial cables and the backup
battery went without a hitch as well.
Soon there was static coming from the
speaker. It’s alive!
This receiver is controlled via software through either a GPIB or RS-232
port. Using a terminal program, I was
able to initiate the self test routines.
Everything passed except for the
Synthesiser 2 board, which got a fail.
After pulling the board out again I
closely inspected what I initially assumed to be some sort of tuned, solid
aluminium RF block. In fact it turned
out to be a heat-transfer mechanism
from a hidden SOIC socketed chip to
the shield cover. Removing the block
and chip, then giving it and the socket
a good clean fixed this.
Unit number one was now fully
operational, I could tune into the local ABC AM radio station down at
612kHz all the way up to the 468MHz
emergency services.
As far as the operational specifications, such as selectivity etc, are concerned – I do not know as I don’t have
the facilities to test this. All I know
is that it works and works well, even
when compared to my little Yaesu
scanner.
These results really show how well
built these units are. Their military
equipment application says they have
to be – and they are made to some of
the most demanding and robust construction standards.
I don’t think I’d have the same
success rate with such a complicated
piece of electronic equipment out of
a consumer factory in China (not that
it might stop me trying!).
Honestly, there were only three areas of iron rust stains – two screws (the
rest were stainless steel), the captive
screw blocks on the rear “D” connectors and the end of one feed line cable.
There was some white residue on
PCBs, probably an oxide of tin or lead
from the solder.
So if you do come across flooded
gear and you think it’s worth having
a go – do it!
Just remember the safety of you and
others when you attempt this. For
240V applications, always make sure
the equipment passes electrical safety
tests before plugging it in.
SC
And here’s the
“icing on the
cake” – the
label might
say “fully
functional”
but it certainly
wasn’t when
removed from
the floodwater.
Here it is
passing the
software test
routines. Yay!
June 2011 25
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