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Vintage Radio
By Rodney Champness, VK3UG
The Astor P7G 8-Transistor
AM Portable Radio
Australian manufacturers built some
excellent transistor radios during the earlyto-mid-1960s. The Astor P7G was one such
set. It boasted no less than eight transistors
and even included an RF stage to lower
noise and boost sensitivity.
D
OMESTIC TRANSISTOR RADIO
manufacture in Australia commenced in the late 1950s. The first
sets were built in much the same way
as valve radios. Point-to-point wiring was common (ie, they didn’t use
printed circuit boards) and in some
cases, the transistors were plugged
into sockets just like valves had always
been installed.
By contrast, the Japanese started
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with crude printed circuit boards
(PCBs) right from the onset of transistorised receiver manufacture. As
a result, Australian manufacturers
initially lagged behind the Japanese
in their construction techniques before adopting phenolic printed circuit
boards.
Like many, I wasn’t initially all that
keen on PCBs as it was often difficult
to be sure which track a particular
component was wired to. Instead of
following point-to-point wiring, you
had to try to work out the connections
by examining both sides of the board
and this could be rather difficult on a
tightly-packed board.
Apart from that, early PCBs also
suffered from a number of drawbacks.
They were somewhat hygroscopic (ie,
they absorbed moisture), were easily
charred if components overheated and
the copper tracks lifted off the board
if too much heat was used during
soldering.
Hairline cracks in the tracks were
also common and caused many intermittent faults. They were almost
impossible to see and if a serviceman
suspected such a problem, the cure
was to run solder right along the suspect track. This sometimes involved
laying a very thin wire strand along the
suspect track and soldering it at various intervals until the fault vanished.
These servicing techniques largely
overcame the problems with early
boards. And of course, as time went
by, the various issues were addressed
and the quality and durability of the
boards improved.
Japanese receivers
The performance of the early Japanese transistors receivers wasn’t all
that good. They were noisy and not
very sensitive and that situation continued for many years.
Of course, the Japanese were catering for a world market where listeners
generally lived close to local radio stations. By contrast, many Australians
lived some distance away from radio
stations, so sensitivity was important.
As a result, Australian manufacturers produced many sensitive, lownoise receivers to suit the domestic
market. However, despite their technical superiority, they eventually lost the
battle for market share due to the low
cost of imported receivers. As a result,
domestic receiver production slowed
and eventually ceased in the 1970s.
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Fig.1: the circuit is an 8-transistor superhet design with an RF stage, three IF transformers and a push-pull audio
output stage. It uses an internal loopstick antenna but provision is also made for an external antenna.
There was no point making receivers if no one bought them, even if they
were superior in many respects!
Astor P7G transistor receiver
One good-quality Australian set
from the early transistor era was the
Astor P7G. This was an 8-transistor
broadcast band portable and was produced around 1965.
I came across the Astor P7G receiver
described here at a swap meet. On
inspection, I found it to be quite clean
both inside and out and because it had
an RF (radio frequency) stage, I thought
that it would be a very good performer.
The 276-P battery had been left in
the set but had not leaked and no corrosion was evident. So as a bonus I got
a battery that I could use for display
purposes.
As shown in the photos, the set is
housed in a stitched brown leatherette case which measures 250 x 180
x 80mm (W x H x D) although this
doesn’t include the handle and knobs.
It weighs a hefty 2.2kg with the battery
installed.
The dial scale is a normal slide-rule
type and the tuning was still firm and
positive, so the dial system was well
thought out and executed. The tuning control is at the right-hand end of
the cabinet while the on-off volume
control is at the other end.
Like many sets of this calibre, it
has provision for an external antenna
and earth via two flat-headed screws
on the top edge of the back panel. In
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addition, for those who wanted to use
the set in a car, Astor provided a socket
to suit a car radio antenna cable at the
left-hand end of the cabinet, below the
volume control.
To gain access to the battery, it is
necessary to loosen a flat-headed screw
at the lower edge of the back of the
cabinet and then lift the back flap up.
The 276-P 9V battery is held in place
by a small clip arrangement, which is
easily sprung open to allow the battery
to be removed.
Another excellent feature is that all
the alignment adjustments are accessible without taking the chassis out of
the cabinet. In addition, most of the
alignment points are marked either
with colours or numbers which are
also shown on the circuit.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of the
Astor P7G. As stated, it’s an 8-transistor design that includes an RF stage
to ensure good sensitivity and low
noise. As such, it outperforms almost
all Japanese transistor receivers of the
same era.
The input circuit consists of a
ferrite-rod loopstick antenna measuring 12.7mm in diameter and 203mm
long. This has three windings on it,
with the tunable winding spread along
about half its length. One end of this
winding is earthed, while the other
has another, much smaller coil wired
in series with it.
This latter winding is on a small
former and is slid along the ferrite rod
to tune the antenna circuit for best
performance at the low-frequency end
of the tuning range.
Another small winding is interwound with the tuned winding at
the earthed end and this is connected
to the base of the RF transistor. And
finally, there is a small winding positioned about 8mm down from the
earthed end of the tuned winding. This
is attached to the chassis at one end,
while the other end is connected via
a parallel choke-resistor combination
(component 83) to two antenna inputs:
(1) a coaxial cable input socket for use
with a car radio antenna; and (2) an
input for a normal long-wire antenna
which is connected to the “A” terminal
on the back of the receiver’s case.
Note that when “A” is used, the
corresponding “E” terminal must be
connected to an earth, otherwise the
improvement in performance when
an antenna is connected will only be
slight.
It may seem strange that an RF
choke and a resistor are used in series
with the antenna. In fact, you would
expect that this would attenuate the
signal going to the coupling coil on
the ferrite rod.
However, the reverse is true – it
actually boosts the signal. Basically,
the choke acts as a series loading coil
which tunes the antenna system (assuming an “average” antenna) to just
below the broadcast band. This boosts
the performance at the low-frequency
November 2011 91
collector of this stage connects to a
feedback winding for the oscillator
circuit and this then goes to the primary of the first 455kHz IF transformer.
The first IF amplifier stage uses a
2N410-E. Its output is applied via the
second IF transformer to a second IF
amplifier, this time based on a 2N410B. The output of this stage is then fed
through a third IF transformer to the
detector which is a 1N295 germanium
diode.
The resulting audio output is fed
via a volume control pot (which also
includes an on/off switch) to the base
of a 2N406 amplifier. This stage drives
a second audio amplifier stage (also
using a 2N406) and this in turn drives
a push-pull output stage via a driver
transformer.
The output stage is based on two
AT74 output transistors and these
drive an oval-shaped (127 x 100mm)
15-ohm loudspeaker. Negative feedback is applied from the top of the
loudspeaker to the bottom of the
volume control which is connected to
ground via a 1.8Ω resistor (65).
Temperature compensation
Most of the circuitry is built on a main PCB, with a separate small board
used for the RF stage. These are mounted on a metal chassis, along with the
tuning gang, dial-drive mechanism, loopstick antenna and the loudspeaker.
end of the broadcast band, as an external antenna is usually very short
compared to a tuned length.
At the high-frequency end, the
antenna more nearly approaches a
tuned length so the performance of
the antenna is better there. In fact,
the performance under some circumstances could be so enhanced that the
sensitivity across the broadcast band
would be very uneven.
To overcome this, the choke is
shunted with a resistor. This damps
the effect of the choke so that the
sensitivity at the low-frequency end
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of the band is similar to that at the
high-frequency end.
The first amplifying stage is an
AF116N, one of the later low-noise
germanium PNP RF transistors. Note
that the transistor symbols used in the
circuit diagram are different to those
now in use. They were commonly
used in the 1960s and were later superseded.
The output of the AF116N appears
at its collector and is fed through a
broadcast-band tuned circuit to the
input of an autodyne oscillator mixer
based on a 2N412 PNP transistor. The
Germanium transistors, particularly
those used in the output stage of a
receiver, need to have their standing
current stabilised to prevent thermal
runaway. Without this stabilisation,
the transistors will draw more and
more current as they heat up until
eventually thermal runaway occurs
and the transistors fail.
In the Astor P7G, thermal compensation is achieved using 220Ω NTC
(negative temperature coefficient)
thermistors (75) and (78). As the temperature of the transistor junctions
increases, their resistance decreases.
This in turn reduces the forward bias
applied to the output transistors and
thus controls the quiescent current
through them under no signal conditions.
Automatic gain control
Automatic gain control (AGC) is
applied in a variety of ways in transistor receivers and is usually more
complex than in valve receivers. The
gain of transistors can be controlled
by biasing them closer to cut-off or
by biasing them to draw more current
(which lowers their gain).
In this receiver, increased signal
levels cause the output of the detector
(96) to go more positive. This in turn
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applies progressively more positive
voltage (via a voltage divider) to the
base of the PNP AF116N RF amplifier,
causing it to draw less current. This
stage in turn biases the following first
IF amplifier stage (2N410-E), which
also then draws less current.
This means that there will be less
voltage drop across resistor (55) and
this causes the associated 1N295 diode
(93) to conduct. As a result, this diode
acts as a variable shunt across the first
IF transformer and thus reduces the
signal level applied to the first amplifier IF stage.
This makes a very effective AGC
system and is very different to the
AGC methods used in valve receivers.
The loopstick antenna includes an adjustable peaking coil
(arrowed). This is adjusted for peak performance by sliding
it along the ferrite rod during the alignment procedure.
Restoring the cabinet
Removing the chassis from the
cabinet proved to be much more difficult than expected. First, I removed
the two knobs, then the screw in the
middle of the bottom of the cabinet that
secured that section of the chassis in
place. The screws securing the handle
to the cabinet were then removed,
along with the two “A” antenna and
“E” earth screws.
That done, I attempted to remove
the chassis but it seemed to be jammed
in place. I thought that perhaps the
car radio antenna socket was somehow fouling the chassis removal so I
removed the four screws holding the
main circuit board in place and lifted
it out of the way. All that did was show
that it wasn’t the socket that was causing the problem.
It was difficult to see what was
causing the problem as the chassis is
tucked quite tightly into the cabinet. I
then observed two screws, one in the
top left-hand corner of the cabinet and
another in the top right-hand corner.
These two screws were buried deep in
the set against the front panel.
Initially, I thought that these held
the dial system in place but I was
getting desperate so I removed them
anyway. And that was it – the chassis
could now be removed with a little
encouragement, although I did have
to disconnect the four wires that ran
from the chassis to the antenna and
earth connections.
With the chassis now out of the way,
I tried cleaning the cabinet using a soft
cloth dampened with water (as suggested in the service data). However,
this had little impact on the 45 years
of grime on the surface, so I adopted
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a more aggressive approach, this time
using a nailbrush dipped in a solution
of dishwashing liquid in warm water.
This method removed almost all the
greasy gunk from the cabinet surface,
after which the cabinet was left to dry
in the sun. It was a matter of knowing
when to stop as the inner section is
made of a form of cardboard, so it was
important not to get it wet.
I also found a number of greasy
marks and dirt along the metal front
panel. This was also scrubbed using
a nailbrush and it now looks very acceptable. The cabinet now looks quite
good even though some of the stitching
along the cabinet edges has given way
over the years.
Restoring the chassis
A quick inspection revealed that the
printed circuit boards were in good
condition, with no sign of overheating
or damaged components. It was time to
see if it worked, so I connected a lowvoltage variable DC power supply to
the battery plug, with a milliammeter
in series with one lead. I increased
the voltage slowly and the current
gradually increased to about 10mA at
9V which is normal.
At this stage, the receiver was working but its sensitivity wasn’t good and
the volume occasionally “jumped” up
and down. I tapped lightly around
the circuit board with the back end of
a small screwdriver and the volume
varied as I did so, indicating a possible dry solder joint. It was especially
sensitive when I touched the third IF
transformer.
With the location of the fault nar-
The inside back of the cabinet includes a diagram that shows the dial-string
arrangement plus information on the battery and antenna connections.
November 2011 93
By the way, the MSP 3-gang (and
2-gang) “padder-less” tuning capacitors used in this set and many other
transistor and valve receivers of the era
had to be accurately matched to the
inductances and distributed capacitance in the front-end tuned circuits.
If this was not done, receivers using
these gangs did not track accurately.
A number of receivers didn’t get this
matching quite right and so suffer from
this problem. Fortunately, Astor seem
to have got it as close as practicable
in the P7G.
Power supply
The old Astor P7G’s leatherette cabinet is still in good condition, although
the stitching is starting to give way in some places. The antenna and earth
terminal screws are at top right and top left respectively.
rowed down, I checked at the underside of the board using a headset
magnifier. This revealed that at least
one pin of the third IF transformer had
a dry solder joint. It looked tarnished
so I used de-soldering braid to remove
the solder from all the pins of this
transformer, then scraped away any
tarnish until all the pins were shiny.
I then resoldered all the pins and
that fixed the intermittent volume
changes. There were no other problems apart from the fact that the set
needed an alignment. And to do that,
I first had to reinstall the chassis in the
cabinet and reconnect the leads I had
disconnected earlier.
With a little coaxing, the chassis
slipped into place and the three retaining screws were refitted. The top
corner screws were installed using a
magnetic screwdriver. This allowed
me to keep the screws in place at the
end of the screwdriver while I carefully guided them into the cabinet.
Alignment
Assuming that the various adjustments have not been twiddled with
aimlessly by someone in the past, the
alignment procedure should always
be straightforward.
As stated, with this set, it’s possible
to access all the tuning adjustments
with the chassis in its cabinet. The IF
section is quite easy to align – just tune
the receiver to a weak station and use a
small-bladed screwdriver to adjust the
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three slugs in the IF transformers for
best performance (the metal blade of
the screwdriver material does not appear to upset any of the adjustments).
In this case, only slight adjustments
were necessary to tune the IF transformers for peak performance.
By contrast, the RF, antenna and
oscillator adjustments need more care
if accurate alignment is to be achieved.
Thankfully, the dial pointer was where
it was supposed to be when the gang
was fully closed, otherwise I would
have had to remove the chassis again
to move it to its correct position.
Having checked that, I tuned to a
strong station near the low-frequency
end of the band and adjusted the oscillator coil so that it appeared in the
correct location on the dial. I then
tuned to a strong station near the highfrequency end and adjusted the wire
trimmer so that the station appeared
in its correct location. There is some
interaction between these two adjustments, so they were repeated a few
times until everything was correct.
That done, I tuned to a weak station
at the low-frequency end and adjusted
the RF coil and antenna peaking coils
for best performance (the latter is
simply slid along the ferrite rod). After that, the trimmer capacitors were
peaked for best performance at the
high-frequency end and this procedure
was also repeated a few times until the
performance was as good as could be
expected.
The Astor P7G was originally powered by a 276-P 9V battery which fitted in the bottom left-hand corner of
the chassis, as viewed from the back.
These batteries are no longer readily
available but this can be solved in various transistor sets by fitting a replacement battery pack. This can simply be
a single 216 9V battery if it is a very
small set, or a battery can be made up
using AA, C or D cells as required.
For the Astor P7G, I used a 6-pack
of AA cells and soldered the leads
from this battery to the 2-pin battery
plug. I then covered the exposed pins
of the plug with heatshrink tubing and
wound insulation tape around the pack
to keep it intact. Finally, the battery
was installed along with some foam
insulation, so that it would fit snugly.
With the 276-P, the battery life was
about 300 hours but is only about
100 hours with the AA-cell pack. The
current drain with no audio output is
around 10mA and about 25-50mA for
normal listening. It can go as high as
150mA if the volume is wound right
up though.
Summary
The Astor P7G is a good example
of the high-performance transistor
receivers that were built by Australian manufacturers during the 1960s.
In fact, its performance is similar to
the more upmarket and expensive
AWA B32 transistor receiver that was
described in the August 2005 issue.
One curiosity is that the RF stage is
built on a separate board to the rest of
the receiver. It’s possible that a cheaper
version of this set was also available without the RF stage, although I
haven’t been able to confirm that.
Servicing this set is not as easy as it
could have been but apart from that,
SC
it’s an excellent design.
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