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Contents
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.25, No.4; April 2012
Features
36 Why Is The 50Hz AC Mains Waveform Distorted?
Theory tells us that the 50Hz AC mains waveform is a pure sinewave but in
practice it’s often distorted because the peaks have been clipped off. Here’s
why – by Leo Simpson
42 Review: MikroElektronika EasyPIC v7 Development Board
It provides an easy way to program & debug 8-bit PIC micros & can be used
with the C, Pascal & BASIC programming languages – by Nicholas Vinen
1.5kW Induction Motor
Speed Controller – Page 16.
80 Q & A On The Maximite Microcomputer
A look at the six most common problems encountered by constructors plus
some questions & answers on this popular design – by Geoff Graham
Pro jects To Build
16 1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller, Pt.1
Versatile unit will drive virtually any modern 3-phase induction motor or any
single-phase motor that does not contain a centrifugal switch. It’s rated at up
to 1.5kW (2HP) & can control speed over a wide range – by Andrew Levido
28 SoftStarter: Taming The Surge Current Menace
SoftStarter: Taming The
Surge Current Menace –
Page 28.
28.
38 A 6-Decade Resistance Substitution Box
6-Decade Resistance
Substitution Box –
Page 38.
Do you get a juicy “splattt” from your mains power point when you plug in a
large plasma TV set or some other piece of gear? Our SoftStarter solves this
problem while having no effect on appliance performance – by Nicholas Vinen
It’s easy to build and lets you select from thousands of different resistance
values between 10Ω and 10MΩ using six rotary switches. When you have
found the optimum, just read off the value on the switches – by Jim Rowe
60 Ultra-LD Mk.3 135W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2
Second article on our new high-performance stereo amplifier completes the
assembly and describes the test & adjustment procedure – by Greg Swain
Special Columns
54 Serviceman’s Log
The earthquakes finally killed my TV set – by the Serviceman
70 Circuit Notebook
(1) Using Mosfets For Reverse Polarity Protection; (2) Simple Water Level
Alarm; (3) 433MHz Garage Door Position Monitor; (4) 12/24V Vehicle
Instrument Panel
82 Vintage Radio
Philips 196A 4-valve portable receiver – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2
4
53
89
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
90 Ask Silicon Chip
94 Notes & Errata
95 Market Centre
Ultra-LD Mk.3 135W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2 – Page 60.
Note: part 3 of the SemTest has
been held over until May 2012.
April 2012 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Production Manager
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Induction motor speed controller
an intriguing design exercise
This month we are very pleased to present the first article
on an Induction Motor Speed Controller. For years we have
had requests for just such a project but we have always
had to decline on the grounds that we did not really have
sufficient expertise in this area. In fact, I was probably being too conservative in this regard because we had already
produced a similar project of greater complexity some 20
years ago in a 5-part series on a 2kW sinewave inverter,
between October 1992 and February 1993. That project was quite advanced for its
time and did not have the benefit of a fancy microcontroller. In fact, that sinewave
inverter was produced at a time when such products, particularly of that high rating, were rare and very expensive.
By contrast, these days variable speed drives (VSDs) for induction motors are very
common but they are still relatively expensive. Having said that, variable speed
drives for single-phase induction motors are still not common. Now though, we
have a design which will drive both 3-phase and single phase induction motors
with name-plate ratings up to 1.5kW (2 HP). And while its most popular use will
probably be to enable power savings with swimming pool pumps, it will also be of
considerable interest for enthusiasts who wish to run lathes and other machinery
over a wide speed range.
The whole concept of induction motor speed control is intriguing to anyone with
an understanding of how these motors work. Tesla, the inventor of the induction
motor, was definitely a genius and his concept of the rotating magnetic field (in a
3-phase motor) is such an elegant concept. So if you understand how an induction
motor is effectively locked to the mains frequency, it becomes clear that simply
reducing the voltage is not enough to vary the speed; the frequency must also be
altered.
And while we have understood the concepts well enough, the idea of being able
to control a 3-phase or single-phase 230VAC induction motor when you only have
an input of 230V, and thereby 325V DC, is yet another hurdle. This design does
it by a very clever technique. First, it makes the assumption that any 3-phase motor with a rating of less than about 2kW can be connected in delta configuration
and this means it can be driven with 230VAC rather than 400VAC (equivalent to
415VAC with a 240VAC single-phase mains supply).
Second, the design manages to obtain a sinusoidal 230VAC between each phase.
That is a big leap because how can you manage to obtain more than 115VAC
(sinusoidal) by pulse-width modulation from a 325V DC bus? And if you only
have 115VAC coming from each of the three phases, how can you possibly obtain
sinusoidal 230VAC between phases when you can only expect 200VAC (ie, 1.732
x 115)? The answer turns out to be by not generating sinusoidal phase voltages.
Instead, they are deliberately distorted (or squashed) by the addition of the third
harmonic. The resulting inter-phase voltage IS sinusoidal and it is 230VAC.
Some people will regard this a technical skulduggery but it works beautifully.
Not only that, but by setting a frequency range of 1Hz to 75Hz, the controller gives
a speed range from very low to very fast; much faster than an induction motor can
run at its nominal mains frequency of 50Hz. For example, an induction motor with
a name-plate rating of 1440 RPM will have a theoretical speed range from less than
30 RPM to around 2160 RPM, albeit with reduced power if not running at 50Hz.
There is much more to the story, beginning on page 16 of this issue. I hope that
you find it as intriguing as we have. Thanks to Andrew Levido for his clever design.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
God-like semiconductor gurus
stand in judgement
I saw the first article on the SemTest
semiconductor test set in the February
2012 issue. So why is Jim Rowe spouting that silly line that BJTs are “current operated” and FETs are “voltage
operated”? That is soooo last century.
What does it really mean? Is it really true? I don’t believe so and I cite
as expert witnesses Peter J. Baxandall
and Douglas Self. PJB is, like, God, so
you know I’m right. Horowitz and Hill
only ever talk about either in terms of
transconductance.
The input variable for BJTs, FETs,
and IGBTs is the base-emitter or gatesource voltage, and the output variable
is the collector or drain current. In fact,
the same model should adequately
describe thermionic valves too. What
distinguishes all these devices is the
magnitude of their various parameters.
BJTs would better be described
as low-input-impedance high-gain
transconductance devices and FETs
as high-input-impedance low-gain
transconductance devices. The primary gain parameter of a BJT is its
Valuable skills
are being lost
After reading Chris Ryan’s letter
in the March 2012 issue, I feel I have
to express my opinion about another
issue in today’s world of recycling
and reusing every-day products. As a
teacher and trainer, I see students of
many ages and experience. Most are
simply looking to further their own
knowledge and gain the required
qualifications in a given area of expertise. Some attend classes because
they would lose benefits if they did
not but overall, most of those I see
are in what is termed the “upper
age bracket”, ie, students over the
age of 30.
I teach Automotive Electrical
Theory and Basic Electronics, most
of which is taken by those seeking
4 Silicon Chip
“gm” and that of a FET is its “gfs”.
But wait! What’s this? On page 45
under “Testing Mosfets” you write that
BJTs are “transadmittance device[s]”?
And what is transadmittance? It’s the
complex form of transconductance,
ie, the ratio of output current to input
voltage. In what sense can that be
called “current-controlled”? Maybe
you’re a bit confused. I certainly think
this mode of thinking is confusing.
Does this mean the SemTest doesn’t
do a proper job of measuring BJT
gain? No. The fantastic thing about
BJT transconductance is that it is
determined by physics and its collector current. It is so well described by
the Schockley diode equation, that
they form the basis of log and antilog
amplifiers that operate with precision
over six to eight decades of current.
There is simply no need to measure
BJT transconductance.
FETs are another matter entirely,
since their transconductance can be
affected during manufacture. Curiously, diodes don’t follow the Schockley
diode equation as well as BJTs.
The SemTest looks like a thoroughly
a Certificate 2 or Certificate 3 as an
additional qualification. What galls
me is this: what has happened to
the 16-year old students I used to
teach? Where have all the apprentices gone?
At one time, all my students were
apprentices, holding down jobs, attending college and squeezing in additional studies wherever possible.
Now I see older students who are
adding to their list of qualifications
or those who attend because they
must. It seems our younger people
no longer have the drive to achieve
qualifications or to better themselves
and provide a service to those of us
who have no idea how things work
and don’t want to know.
A friend of mine recently passed
away. He was a machinist. One day,
comprehensive instrument. What took
you so long?
Phil Denniss,
Darlington, NSW.
Jim Rowe remains defiant: you can
quote all of your God-like gurus if you
like but I still stand by my simplified
explanation of BJTs as a currentcontrolled device, as most people still
think of them this way in practice.
What’s more, most people still use
current gain or hFE as the most useful “quick measure” of a BJT’s health
and its suitability for the majority of
practical applications.
Time for 12V lighting
in houses?
Is this a crazy idea with an obvious flaw? Your 10W LED floodlight
project in the February 2012 issue
got me thinking. I thought a couple
of those would be great to replace the
two 48W CFLs in my shed. Just plug
a computer type 12V DC power suphe caught me mowing and remarked
that he could repair my coughing
and smoking mower. He returned
the mower a few days later telling
me he had machined a new piston,
machined the barrel, made the gaskets needed for reassembly, made
the various seals etc and even found
and modified new piston rings. He
did a wonderful job and that mower
still runs like a dream five years
after he repaired it.
With all his skills and knowledge,
it should have been an honour for a
student to be taken under his wing
and to absorb whatever knowledge
was passed over to him. Alas, all
that skill and knowledge has now
been lost.
Dave Sargent,
Maryborough, Qld.
siliconchip.com.au
ply into a power point and chain two
or three 10W LED floodlights off it.
Then I thought, why stop at the shed?
Maybe power-efficient LEDs have gotten cheap enough that its no longer
necessary and appropriate for lighting
to be based on 240VAC.
All the lights in your house are on a
separate circuit, right? So you disconnect the lights circuit in your house
from its circuit breaker in the meter
box, connect a 12VDC power supply
to that circuit instead and replace all
the 240VAC light bulbs in your house
with LED lights like the 3.6W K318s
that Oatley Electronics sell for $6 each.
Sure, you’d have to disconnect the
circuit safely but it’d mean you’d
have very power-efficient lighting
with long-life globes using all the
existing wiring and switches already
in the house. And you could maybe
go one step further and run the light
circuit off a battery that’s charged off
a solar panel – they’re getting cheaper
– with an automatic switch-over to the
240VAC to 12VDC power supply if the
battery charge level dropped too low.
siliconchip.com.au
Solar panels can produce
significant power in late afternoon
Gordon Drennan (Mailbag, March
2012) claims that “by about 4-5PM,
no matter how many roofs have PV
on them, it is producing virtually no
output because the Sun is too low
in the sky”.
This may be true at his location
but it is a very different story in
Perth. It is 4:15PM as I write this,
and my inverter is putting out 1.6kW
on a 38°C day. Normally at this time
No rocket surgery in any of that. It’s all
safe low-voltage stuff only connected
to the mains through a professionallydesigned 12VDC power supply.
I don’t know whether it’s still possible to get those bayonet light socket
plugs so the LED “globes” could be
built onto and plugged into the existing socket. That’s the thing I’d be uncomfortable with – a 15VDC maximum
“globe” built on a plug that could be
plugged into a socket that could have
240VAC connected to it. But by doing it the way I propose you could be
sure all the bayonet-type light fittings
it would be closer to 2kW but the
temperature does take its toll.
My panels are mounted on a westfacing roof (the house faces east, so
there is no north-facing roof space).
I have panels nominally rated at
2.6kW. The peak power is normally
generated at about 2PM; the highest
output I have seen is around 2.3kW.
In the middle of summer, there is
useful output to around 6PM.
Dave Goldfinch,VK6HAF,
Mosman Park, WA.
in your house, at least the fixed ones,
would only have 12V DC in them.
Gordon Drennan,
Burton, SA.
Comment: this is an interesting idea
and is along similar lines to an idea
suggested some years ago in a Publisher’s Letter whereby, since so many
electronic appliances can be run from
12V, why not have a 12V grid running
through the house? Now that LEDs
are getting much cheaper, your idea
is more practical.
It also has a big advantage in that
you could back it up with a 12V bat-
April 2012 5
Mailbag: continued
Comments on TV4ME & MPEG4
When I first noticed TV4ME, I could get it on most
devices in my house, with the surprising exception of
a late model Okano 53cm LCD TV. At the same time,
I found the definition was somewhat pixellated. This
was a little disappointing, given that MPEG4 should
have been better.
A few days later, I tried the Okano TV again and
instead of the message “No Audio, No Video” I got
picture and sound. Checking on other devices I found
the definition was now quite good. Had they goofed
when they first set up channel 74? A friend confirmed
he too had reception failures at first, now only a couple
of old SD STBs fail to decode the signal.
Wenlock Burton,
Bacchus Marsh, Vic.
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6 Silicon Chip
tery bank and then you would have less problems during
a blackout. However, there are two problems with using
existing switching on 12V DC rather than 230V AC. First,
switch and wiring corrosion is bound to more of a problem
(it’s bad enough in seaside areas with 230VAC switches
and power points). Second, in the event of a short-circuit,
a standard 230VAC switch may not be able to break the circuit because an arc may be established across the contacts.
This could be worked around by having a suitably-rated
DC circuit breaker in the system.
Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive
I got a strange sense of deja vu when I read the Fisher
& Paykel SmartDrive motor article in the February 2012
issue. We had done almost the same thing about two years
ago, though neither of us wrote it up at the time. There
were a few things we did differently and there are a few
other points of interest with regard to these motors which
may be of interest to readers.
We chose a winding layout similar to that described in
February by Mr Stojadinovic, with two poles in series,
except we used a delta configuration, which generally
gives higher torque and lower speed on a lower voltage
system. This decision was made on the basis that in the
washing machine, the DC bus voltage was the rectified
mains voltage (approx. 330V) and so each winding in star
configuration would have had about 12V across it. In our
experiment, we used 24V, so the two windings in series
in delta configuration meant that the winding voltage was
roughly the same as in the original washing machine.
The other main difference in our set-up was that we tried
using the motor both with and without Hall Effect sensors
(sensor-less control). When using the sensors there was
better control at low speeds, however the sensor-less setup is favoured in most BLDC designs these days, mainly
due to simplicity, space and lower cost. Sensor-less control
works by sensing the back-EMF produced on the undriven
phase of the motor in order to determine when it is time
to commutate.
At low speeds, the back-EMF can become too low to
siliconchip.com.au
measure accurately, causing unreliable control when the
motor is moving slowly. A design of a (small) sensor-less
BLDC motor controller was featured in the February 2006
issue of Elektor magazine.
We tried a couple of controllers, all of which were
designed for the BLDC motors in electric R/C model cars
and aeroplanes. These can be bought at ridiculously low
prices over eBay (search for “BLDC” or “ESC”), however
most of these do not support Hall Effect sensors. We also
used a controller purchased from Hobby Kingdom under
the “Venom” brand which did utilise Hall Effect sensors.
Note, however, that many of these cheap Chinese motor
controllers have very optimistic ratings and can be easily
damaged. I should also mention that the BLDC motors
themselves, electrically similar to the SmartDrive, are also
available very cheaply and they are very good, powerful,
efficient motors.
We only took a few performance measurements at the
time and the original rig has since been mostly dismantled.
Speed in 24V delta configuration could be varied up to
about 500 RPM (in theory this should go higher), while
no-load current was around 1.5-2A, rising to 20-25A when
applying as much load as we could manually.
At the time we were also working on a design for a BLDC
motor controller with Hall Effect sensor and sensor-less
control, designed for moderately large motors (up to about
5kW). Development on this was halted about a year ago
due to a hard drive failure but if there is reader interest
we could revive the project.
William Andrew,
Lane Cove, NSW.
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MPEG4 is permissible
with DVB-T
In the Mailbag pages of the March 2012 issue, Bryce
Cherry stated that MPEG4 is not permitted unless used for
3D TV. DVB-T is a technical standard, developed by the
DVB Project, that specifies the framing structure, channel
coding and modulation for digital terrestrial television
(DTT) broadcasting. The first version of the standard was
published in March 1997. Note this does not include compression standard. MPEG-2 was standardised in 1998/2000.
Australia started DVB-T/MPEG-2 broadcasting in 2001
and was the only country to include HD broadcasting in
DVB-T transmission. MPEG-4 was standardised in 2006.
New Zealand started DTV-T/MPEG-4 broadcasting in
2008 for all terrestrial TV, for HD and SD. Australian Standard 4599-2007 for DTV transmission includes MPEG-4. In
2010 AS4933-2010 for receivers includes the statement that
broadcasters may transmit MPEG-4 compressed signals.
In my article “Digital TV: Where To From Here?” in
the March 2010 issue of SILICON CHIP, there are statistics
of how many models could already decompress MPEG4. Since then all of the set-top boxes provided on the
Household Assistance Scheme are all capable of MPEG-4
decompression. Additionally all Freeview Australia approved receivers are MPEG-4 capable. The current broadcast MPEG-4 compressors produce 50% less data when
compared to MPEG-2 at the same picture quality. DVB-T2
was standardised in late 2010 and is capable of carrying up
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April 2012 7
Mailbag: continued
Measure sound levels
before complaining
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large, is calling for bigger and better
sound systems (these days mostly
line arrays) as a contract proviso. Yes
there is consultation but the supplying contractor will always defer to
the producer and their company. In
the case of live theatre it will be the
producer that demands the volume
of the PA during performance and
not solely the sound engineer.
If the producer spends most of
their time watching rehearsal from
mid-way back in the seating, the
sound level is likely set to that
reference point. If you’re in front of
wherever the reference point is, yes
it will be louder.
Some expectations for the volume
levels being discussed have also
been derived from increasingly sophisticated, more powerful (louder)
home theatre. Home music is the
to twice the data of DVB-T. Considering that the TV industry will lose 24
channels permanently these increases
in efficiency will be required.
Alan Hughes,
Hamersley, WA.
Comment: we have been advised
that about two weeks after introduction, TV4ME changed from MPEG4
to MPEG2 following market (viewer)
complaints.
same, with March’s SILICON CHIP
having part 1 of a 135W/channel
stereo amplifier (which I imagine
would be quite capable of being
very loud!).
Sound has to cover all of the paying patrons, so those closer to the PA
will have higher volumes (without
introducing variables such as delay
stacks). It seems some are more tolerant of loudness than others; that does
not make them either deaf or stupid.
By all means complain to management, after you have collected
dB readings around the entire room
with reference quality equipment.
Otherwise the observations are
purely subjective.
If you are concerned about deafness caused by these volumes, don’t
use cotton wool; instead, use sonic
earplugs that keep levels to 80dB
or below.
Grant Bunter,
Batlow, NSW.
The introduction of TV4ME was
incorrectly implemented from a
transmission point of view, in that
the broadcaster failed to correctly
set the MPEG4 flag to ensure that
only MPEG4-capable receivers would
receive this service and MPEG2-only
receivers would ignore it.
The MPEG4 flag was previously used
in Australia during 3D transmissions
of State Of Origin and World Cup
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April 2012 9
Mailbag: continued
Braking for solar
panel tracker
I just read my observations regarding limit switches in the March 2012
issue (page 6), in particular the comment at the end. In fact, I emphasise
in the next paragraph the requirement for switches and any braking or
steering diodes to be able to handle
the motor currents involved.
While on the subject of motor
braking, I think it could be safely
assumed that limit switches would
be used to arrest a fault condition in
which a motor could be running at
soccer where MPEG2-only receivers
completely ignored the 3D ‘Side by
Side’ (SBS) transmission; MPEG4
non-3D receivers displayed SBS video
while MPEG4+3D capable receivers
displayed a 3D image.
And contrary to popular belief,
MPEG4 is possible and permissible in
an MPEG2 DVB-T environment; DVB-
10 Silicon Chip
somewhere near full speed. In such
circumstances, some form of braking
would be essential as a motor could
run on for quite some time and cause
extensive damage.
For smaller motors, diodes are
very effective but resistors can be
used if diodes are a problem. I have
found 10Ω 100W to be OK. If the
aluminium block type can be used
and attached to a metal chassis, then
50W is OK as full current only flows
for a very short time.
Bob Rayner,
Willow Vale, NSW.
T is very flexible in this regard. The
MPEG2 video container can contain
any type of video provided the receiver
knows about it.
Magnetic
viewing film
Those interested in permanent
magnet motors, especially the Fisher
& Paykel SmartDrive motor featured in
February 2012 issue, may be interested
in “magnetic film”. This is a paper-like
film (green in my case) which turns
black in the presence of a magnetic
field; lay it over a magnet and the poles
show up very clearly.
Many of the motors like the one
shown in your article have several
poles superimposed on one piece of
magnetic material; the magnetic film
shows these poles very clearly so you
can really see what is going on. Even
those who are general gadgeteers will
find this film useful and fun.
Several magnet supply places carry
the film. Googling “magnetic viewing
film” will get it but “Gaussboys” and
“Applied Magnets” have it.
Quite a number of people converting
these motors to wind generators have
replaced the relatively weak magnets
with high strength super neodymium
magnets to increase the output. This
should increase both the torque and
output power of the motors although
the back-EMF will probably change.
Arthur Davies,
Ainslie, ACT.
siliconchip.com.au
Limit switches
for solar tracker
As Bob Rayner’s letter (Mailbag,
March 2012) correctly surmised, the
limit switches in my solar tracker
design (SILICON CHIP, January 2012)
are there primarily to tell the micro
when to stop and reverse the motors
under normal operating conditions.
They can provide limited protection
against mechanical damage that might
otherwise occur if the motor should
attempt to drive the panels beyond
their normal range of movement but
that is purely a secondary function.
For protection against electrical faults
I would recommend a fuse.
Alternative to the arrangement used
in the published circuit (or as well), a
pair of limit switches could be wired
directly into the motor circuit as suggested in the Editor’s comment. In fact,
that is an excellent idea which I have
actually tried and found to work well.
If used in this manner, the switches
should be connected in series with the
motor and a suitably rated diode connected in parallel with each switch.
Each diode should be orientated so
TV advertisements
are excessively loud
Regarding the Publishers Letter
in the February 2012 issue, I absolutely disagree with your view in
this matter. The vast difference in
volume between TV programs and
advertisements is at times unbearable. You suggest turning off but
I like the programs and have paid
several thousand dollars to view
them just like thousands of other
unhappy viewers.
You suggest we ignore it and
perhaps it will go away. Well, one
retailer started it many years ago
and now many have followed; it is
getting worse and needs regulation.
I don’t have sufficient knowledge
as to block current in the direction
of over-run while allowing current to
flow in the opposite direction so as to
permit the motor to reverse normally.
If the limit switches are used as
described above then the original
arrangement can be either omitted
or retained, depending on the user’s
discretion. If the original arrangement
is retained then the limit sense inputs
on this subject but would like you
to feature a remedy for this, maybe
a kit – perhaps part of a modified
voice-controlled switch feeding
into a voltage controlled amplifier.
With sufficient adjustment between
the two devices it could respond
between fully-muted to no change.
Bill Fleming,
Launceston, Tas.
Comment: we published a stereo
compressor in the January 2012
issue which will fix the problem, if
you are using an external amplifier
and speakers with your TV. However,
if you don’t have this sort of set-up
then there is no technical cure, apart
from using the mute button on your
remote control.
to the micro should be shorted to 0V
to allow normal operation. In this case
the micro won’t know that the motor
has reached the limit position but the
software was originally written with
this possibility in mind, so this won’t
affect operation.
By the way, I noticed the revised
MPPT solar charge controller by John
Clarke in the March issue. I recall the
Micronix Handheld
Spectrum Analyzer
> Compact and lightweight - only 1.8kg.
> Large colour display.
> Battery operation.
> Built in measurement functions.
> Auto tune mode.
> 3.3Ghz and 8.5GHz models available.
For further information contact Vicom on 1300 360 251,
or visit vicom.com.au
HigH vAlue
froM vicoM
www.vicom.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 11
Mailbag: continued
More on extended
warranties
I have a quick comment regarding your response to my letter on
warranties in the Mailbag pages of
the February 2012 issue. The new
consumer laws as described in the
“Australian Consumer Law” are not
black and white and are particularly
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grey in some areas. It would be my
view that extended warranties on
the products previously mentioned
are still worthwhile.
Say for an example, a customer
purchases a 140cm television for
$2000. Their first option is to purchase an extended warranty and
they can then be assured it will be
covered for failures within the covered time-frame – which is up to five
years in most cases. This may cost
the customer something like $200.
Just raise a claim and the rest is easy.
If they choose not to purchase
an extended warranty but rather
choose to rely on the consumer laws
to cover the product for any failures
outside the normal manufacturer
warranty, that’s OK but they should
keep in mind that in the event of
a failure, this path would be more
stressful and will almost always be
costlier.
Once an item is outside the normal manufacturer warranty period,
the customer will first need to get
the item assessed by an approved
repairer, before the manufacturer
will consider helping the customer
with an out-of-warranty repair. The
customer is almost always up for the
cost of assessment and depending on
original design, which impressed me
very much. I see that John put a lot of
effort into the controller. My congratulations on an excellent job done!
Herman Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW.
the outcome, the assessment fee may
not be covered by the manufacturer
at all. As a general guide the assessment may cost about $100 and this
may rise to something like $150 if a
call-out is required. So by this point
the customer has already spent $150.
The report from the assessment is
then forwarded to the manufacturer
for their consideration. Depending
on the age of the unit and the severity of the failure, the manufacturer
may not choose to help the customer
at all. Or they may choose to cover
the cost of parts or in extreme cases,
cover parts and labour.
If the manufacturer chooses to
only cover the cost of a part, the
customer would then have to pay
the full labour cost. So at this point
the total cost (including assessment)
may have risen to something like
$200 to $300, which means they
have actually ended up paying
more than the cost of purchasing an
extended warranty.
If the outcome was thought to be
less than desirable to the customer,
they could then choose to take the
manufacturer to court over the issue.
But considering the time, stress and
money involved with going down
this path it would just be easier to
purchase an extended warranty.
Erik Atkinson,
Neilborough, Vic.
PICAXE & Arduino
comparison
In regard to the question which is
better, Arduino or PICAXE, I would
like to add my two bob’s worth. I have
taught electronics (beginning with
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12 Silicon Chip
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and structurally sound language for
secondary students to begin their microcontroller experience. This simple
language also gives independence to
students, enabling them to quickly
go off and design their own projects.
However to me, it is also the weakest
point in the PICAXE system as once
harder programs have been mastered,
quite a few senior secondary students
would probably benefit from experience with a better language than
BASIC.
The use of the “C”-based language in
the Arduino system is a real strength.
Many highly-experienced C programmers have joined the Arduino community and the Arduino IDE provides
a rich source of shared libraries to
work with.
This familiarity must be a real boon
for people coming from the programming side of computers to the elec-
siliconchip.com.au
Charging mobile
phones via USB
On reading the “Ask SILICON
CHIP” pages in the February 2012
issue, I noticed the section on recharging mobile phones in a car.
I had a similar problem (a phone/
iPod that would not charge via a
car charger) and solved it by soldering the D+ and D- pins together
inside the case of a cheap Chinese
adapter. I also applied the same fix
to a Jaycar 4-AA USB battery pack
(Cat MP-3083).
In both cases the D+ and D- pins
went nowhere on the PCB, so
bridging them with solder was a
minor modification with no consequence to the operation of the
power supply device.
Sam Mosel,
Fullarton, SA.
Parallel PIC Programmers) and senior
programming classes in secondary
schools (Java) over the last 20 years.
I have found the PICAXE an excellent extension for electronics classes
and a good stepping stone towards
understanding microcontrollers. The
electronic requirements are very simple and the bootloader programming
interface is just a stereo 3.5mm socket
and two resistors.
My students have been constructing
these computers from the blank PCB
board and working through etching,
drilling, soldering and debugging to a
very large degree on their own. I have
found that the degree of confidence
and independence experienced by my
students has been a hugely engaging
experience and highly successful.
The PICAXE BASIC language is
quite easy to learn and now that it
has been upgraded, quite a capable
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
√
April 2012 13
M^ ssed an issue?
SILICON CHIP has available all back issues going back to 2003 and many issues before then.
(And if we can't supply a back issue, we can always supply a reprint of any particular article.
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14 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Mailbag: continued
tronic side. However, I would find
a problem in extending electronics
classes with the standard Arduino
boards such as the Uno (which is a
fabulous board, don’t get me wrong
here) as it uses surface-mount components and a much more sophisticated
electronics interface for the standard
USB bootloader, as well as the C
language; not really a middle school
construction project.
The range of Shields (Arduino-talk
for interface boards and software) now
available commercially is quite staggering but their existence reinforces
the notion that the CPU boards are best
accepted as they are for beginners and
beginners are best just playing around
with the interfaces.
This is not such a bad strategy (it
does have huge potential) but does not
have quite the hands-on feel that the
PICAXE systems provide.
Any particular school that is struggling with providing resources would
baulk at the proposition that every
school should use both of these systems and have the best of both worlds.
Not the least because of the pressure
placed on the teachers who would
have to master two systems and then
do the curriculum development to
make them both a success in their
school.
So we should not be too critical of
any particular school that comes down
on either side or any beginner for that
Solar panels generate
less power when hot
matter, faced with the same choice. I
believe either system could be excellent; I have no intention of igniting an
Arduino-PICAXE flame war!
To sum up from a teacher’s point
of view, if a system is required to
give middle-school students a solid
microcontroller experience starting
with the electronics and working
through to the programming then I
would highly recommend the PICAXE
system. However, if I was dealing with
capable year 12 students through to
university level students, I would
choose the Arduino system with its
more advanced programming opportunities and reduced need for initial
electronic construction work.
Advanced university students should
be looking more at the ARM systems and
other mobile, low power technologies –
another stage again!
Finally, I believe that both systems
should happily coexist across educational institutions, if not within them,
with more emphasis on one or the
other depending on the age and expectations of the learners and teachers. No
doubt adult beginners are in a similar
situation and as a result may find they
begin with one system but after while,
also use the other system from time to
time, or with experience settle on just
one system.
Beginners of all ages will initially
begin with the standard IDEs and
board configurations, as a safe starting
I may have the answer for Will
McGhie and his solar panels (Mailbag, February 2012). I recently had
a 1.5kW system installed with a
2.2kW inverter and on a hot summer’s day I only see 1075W.
The reason is temperature. My
panels produce their rated output
at 25°C. Above that the output
drops off. As he lives in WA, it is
perfectly understandable that he
has been told that he will not see
his rated 1.9kW.
However, in cooler climes the
reverse is true. On a cool 19°C day I
have seen an output of 1850W! The
lesson here is that in cooler areas
the inverter needs to be larger than
the rated panel capacity.
Rowan Wigmore,
Gisborne, Vic.
point, and these common configurations are what most schools will judge
the systems on. So suggesting a lot of
technical work-arounds to my views
above will be unlikely to be very attractive if they use non-standard and
less well supported hardware/software combinations that vary greatly
from the substantially documented
mainstream concepts.
As the saying goes, “Horses for
courses”. We are lucky to have such
excellent alternatives.
Rob Ward,
SC
Lake Tyers Beach, Vic.
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April 2012 15
Updated article
Here it is at last . . .
Pt.1: by ANDREW LEVIDO
Speed Control for
Induction Motors
You’ve asked for it many times and we have always said NO! It’s
too complex, too difficult, too expensive, whatever. Now we’re
saying YES. This Induction Motor Speed Controller is suitable for
motors up to 1.5kW (2HP) and can be used to control speed over a
wide range. It will save big dollars with swimming pool pumps and
will be great for running machinery at different speeds. Even better,
it will control 3-phase motors as well!
W
E HAVE PUBLISHED quite a few
speed controllers over the years,
some suitable for DC motors and others for universal AC motors. Up until
now, we have not published a design
suitable for the most common type of
16 Silicon Chip
AC motor of all – the induction motor.
Controlling the speed of induction
motors is not easy; you cannot simply
reduce the voltage and hope that it
works, for two reasons. First, an induction motor’s speed is more or less
locked to the 50Hz frequency of the
230VAC mains supply; so reducing the
supply voltage doesn’t work. Second,
induction motors don’t like reduced
supply voltage; it makes them difficult
to start and there is the risk of burnout.
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
Features
•
•
•
Controls single-phase or 3-phase induction motors
Runs from a single-phase 230VAC, 10A power point
Over-current, over-temperature, under-voltage, over-voltage and short circuit
protection
• EMI (electromagnetic interference) filtering for reduced radio interference
• Inrush current limiting
• Isolated control circuitry for safety
• Adjustable speed ramp up/down
• Pool pump mode
• Tool spin-up mode
• Can run 3-phase motors in either direction
• Optional external speed control pot with run, reverse and emergency stop
switches
• Motor run/ramping and reverse indicator LEDs
• Fault indicator LED
• Open collector output provides either fault or up-to-speed indication
Specifications
Motor power: up to 1.5kW (2 horsepower)
Maximum output voltage (single or 3-phase motor): ~230V RMS
Continuous output current: 8.5A RMS (single-phase), 5A RMS (3-phase)
Short-term overload current: 13A RMS (single-phase), 7.5A RMS (3-phase)
Switching frequency: 16kHz
Quiescent power: 28W
Speed ramp period adjustment: 1-30s to full speed
Continuous input current: up to 8.7A RMS
Speed control range: 1-100% or 1-150% (0.5Hz to 50Hz or 75Hz) in 0.05Hz steps
Efficiency: up to 96%
Speed control signal: 0-3.3V
Up-to-speed/fault output sink: 12V/200mA
Note: this updated article for the Induction Motor Speed Controller incorporates
all the changes (including the modified PCB) to the original version, as
described in the December 2012 and August 2013 issues. The software is
also revised.
No, the only reliable way of controlling the speed of an induction motor is
to vary the drive frequency. As we shall
see, it is also not enough to simply vary
the frequency; as the frequency drops
below 50Hz, the applied voltage must
be reduced proportionally to avoid
magnetic saturation of the core. This
makes the electronic circuitry complex
and its design is made more difficult by
the wide variety of induction motors.
Fortunately, advances in power
semiconductors have reached a point
where such a project is now viable. But
our previous objections still apply. It
is complex, relatively expensive and
potentially dangerous.
siliconchip.com.au
This project is only recommended
for experienced constructors. Most of
the circuit is at 230VAC mains potential and worse, it has sections running
at 325-350V DC. Furthermore, the
circuit can remain potentially lethal
even after the 230VAC mains supply
has been disconnected.
We envisage the main application
of the speed controller will be in
reducing the energy consumption of
domestic pool pumps – one of the biggest single contributors to the power
bills of pool owners. We’ve previously
published a review of a commercial
unit that does this but at a price tag
of over $1000. You should be able to
build this unit for a couple of hundred
dollars, making it a much more attractive proposition.
That said, we have tried to make this
unit fairly versatile. It will drive virtually any modern 3-phase induction
motor or any single-phase motor that
does not contain a centrifugal switch,
rated at up to 1.5kW (2HP).
In this first article, we describe the
features of the controller and explain
how it works. A following article will
detail the construction, testing and
installation.
Induction motors
Invented in the 1880s by the Croatian engineering genius Nikola Tesla,
the induction motor has become the
most common type of electric motor
in use today. According to Tesla, the
concept came to him in a vision while
he was walking in a park in Budapest
in 1882. The vision was so vivid and
detailed that he was able to construct
a working prototype completely from
memory.
Since we don’t all have Tesla’s
powers of memory and visualisation,
a quick refresher on induction motor
principles is probably in order. A set of
windings in the stator, fed by a 3-phase
voltage supply, produces a rotating
magnetic field. This field induces (by
transformer action) a corresponding
current in a set of short-circuited
windings in the rotor. These rotor currents create their own magnetic field
that interacts with the stator’s rotating
field to produce torque that turns the
rotor and any attached load.
Things are more tricky in the case
of single-phase induction motors
since with one winding we can only
produce a pulsating field. This can
induce current in the rotor but unless
the rotor is already turning, there will
be no torque. Single-phase induction
motors must therefore have a separate
start winding.
This start winding is usually connected via a capacitor and/or a centrifugal switch. Some of these motors
are not suitable for use with the speed
controller described here. Please refer
to the panel later in this article for
specific information.
Shaded Pole and Permanent Split
Capacitor (PSC) types, which includes
most domestic pumps, fans and blowers, should be fine.
The ubiquity of induction motors
is a result of their low cost and high
April 2012 17
U
LINE
NEUTRAL
V
EARTH
W
MOTOR
ISOLATION BARRIER
TRIMPOTS
DIP SWITCHES
POOL
EXT
O/S
FLT
REV
SPEED
RUN
RAMP
REVERSE
FAULT
GND
REVERSE
ESTOP
E-STOP
RUN
RUN
LEDS
3.3V
OUT
Vin GND
SPEED
12V MAXIMUM
Fig.1: overview of the Induction Motor Speed Controller. The mains
input power (left) and the motor (right) are connected to the high-voltage
section at top, with the earth connection used for EMI suppression. The
DIP switches and trimpots allow the unit to be configured, while the LEDs
provide feedback. The optional external controls (shown at bottom) may
be attached when the application requires them.
L1
L1
L2
L2
L3
L3
'STAR' CONNECTION
'DELTA' CONNECTION
Fig.2: the windings of small 3-phase motors are normally connected in star
configuration for use with the 400V RMS 3-phase mains supply. In this
case, each winding is driven with the phase-to-neutral voltage of 230V. By
changing how the windings are connected (which can usually be done by
moving some jumpers), the motor can be changed to delta configuration,
with just one winding between each phase. It can then be driven from a
230V RMS 3-phase supply such as the output of this motor controller.
reliability. Unlike DC or universal motors, there are no brushes or slip-rings
to wear out or be adjusted. The stator
is constructed like a standard mains
transformer, with a laminated steel
core and conductive windings.
In most cases, the rotor “windings”
take the form of aluminium bars cast
into slots in the surface of the rotor
laminations, running parallel to the
shaft. Conducting rings cast around
either end of the rotor short these bars,
forming a cylindrical cage around the
rotor – hence the term “squirrel cage
motor”.
18 Silicon Chip
So the rotor is effectively a solid
lump of metal, making for an extremely rugged and low cost motor.
Features
Refer now to Fig.1 for an overview
of the 1.5kW Induction Motor Speed
Controller. The input is 230V 50Hz
single-phase mains and the output is
either a single or 3-phase supply with
a frequency variable between 0.5Hz
and 50Hz (or 0.5Hz and 75Hz) and a
voltage between almost zero and 230V
RMS. The output voltage tracks the
frequency linearly, except at very low
frequencies, when a little extra is applied to help overcome the voltage lost
across the stator winding resistance.
The 3-phase output produces 230V
RMS, measured between any two of
the three outputs. So it doesn’t matter which two outputs a single-phase
motor is connected to, it will receive
230V regardless.
The output frequency and voltage is
controlled either by an on-board trimpot or using an external potentiometer
or voltage source. This is selected by a
DIP switch labelled “EXT”.
To start the motor, the Run terminal is pulled to ground whereupon
the motor will ramp smoothly up to
the preset speed. If the Run terminal
is opened, the motor will ramp back
down smoothly to a stop. If the Run
terminal is hard wired to ground, the
motor will start ramping immediately
power is applied.
The rate at which the motor ramps
up and down is set by a second onboard trimpot. The ramp is adjustable
from 1-30 seconds, for a full ramp from
0.5Hz to 50Hz.
It is important to set this rate sufficiently long, particularly if the load
has high inertia. If the acceleration is
too fast, the motor will draw very high
current and trip the over-current protection. This occurs because the rotor
does not have time to “catch up” with
the rotating magnetic field.
Similarly, decelerating a high inertia load too quickly can cause an
over-voltage trip. This can occur if the
load overtakes the motor, causing it to
regenerate too much energy back into
the controller.
A green LED indicates when the
motor is running. This flashes while
the motor is ramping to or from the set
speed and lights solidly when the set
speed is reached.
If the Reverse terminal is pulled low,
the direction of rotation will change.
This only works for 3-phase motors,
since the direction of single-phase
motors is fixed by the wiring of their
start circuit. If the motor is running
while this input changes state, the
controller will ramp down to zero, wait
for a second for the motor to come to
a complete stop, then ramp back up
again in the opposite direction. A yellow LED lights to indicate the motor
is running in reverse.
A single open-collector output
(OUT) is provided to drive an external
12V relay or lamp. This output can be
siliconchip.com.au
HIGH
SIDE
DRIVER
HIGH
SIDE
DRIVER
HIGH
SIDE
DRIVER
OVER
VOLTAGE
PROTECTION
230VAC
OVER
CURRENT
PROTECTION
POWER
SUPPLY
MOTOR
LOW
SIDE
DRIVER
LOW
SIDE
DRIVER
BARRIER
ISOLATION
FAULT SIGNALS
POWER
SUPPLY
LOW
SIDE
DRIVER
DRIVE SIGNALS
DRIVE SIGNALS
MICROCONTROLLER
DRIVE SIGNALS
THERMISTOR
USER
INTERFACE
Fig.3: this block diagram shows how the incoming 230VAC mains is rectified and filtered before being applied to the
motor by six IGBTs configured as a 3-phase bridge. The capacitor bank voltage can increase during over-run and the
over-voltage protection circuit disables the IGBTs before damage can occur. The over-current protection prevents
damage in case of overload or a shorted output, while a thermistor shuts it all down if the heatsink gets too hot. The
micro is isolated from the high-voltage circuitry by opto-couplers.
programmed via the “FLT” DIP switch
to pull down either when the motor
reaches the target speed or when a
fault event occurs.
The AC motor speed controller also
has fault protection circuits to protect
it against over-current, over-voltage
and over-heating. An external source
may also trigger a fault condition by
pulling the ESTOP terminal low.
The over-current protection monitors the current through the output
devices and signals a fault if it approaches the device limits. The overvoltage protection detects excessive
voltage rise caused by energy being
fed back into the motor terminals by
regeneration. As you would expect, the
over-heating protection is triggered if
the heatsink temperature rises to an
unacceptable level.
When any of the above faults occur,
the output devices switch off and the
red LED lights. The fault condition
remains latched until the source of
the fault is cleared and either the run
switch is opened or the power is cycled
off and on.
There is also an over-speed option,
which is selected using the “O/S” DIP
switch. When this is enabled, the output frequency goes up to 75Hz rather
than 50Hz. However, the maximum
voltage of 230V is achieved at 50Hz
and does not increase further with
higher frequency. This allows motors
WARNING: DANGEROUS VOLTAGES
This circuit is directly connected to the 230VAC mains. As such, most of the parts and wiring operate at mains
potential and there are also sections running at 325-350V DC. Contact with any part of these non-isolated
circuit sections could prove FATAL (see Fig.5).
Note also that the circuit can remain potentially lethal even after the 230VAC mains supply has been
disconnected!
To ensure safety, this circuit MUST NOT be operated unless it is fully enclosed in a plastic case. Do not connect
this device to the mains with the lid of the case removed. DO NOT TOUCH any part of the circuit unless the
power cord is unplugged from the mains socket, the on-board neon indicator has extinguished and at least
three minutes have elapsed since power was removed (and the voltage across the 470μ
470μF 400V capacitors has
been checked with a multimeter – see text).
This is not a project for the inexperienced. Do not attempt to build it unless you understand what you are doing
and are experienced working with high-voltage circuits.
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 19
Scope Output Waveforms At Full Speed
Scope1 (200μs/div)
These two scope grabs show the output
waveforms with the motor speed controller set at full speed (ie, 50Hz). The yellow
traces show the voltage at one of the
outputs while the green trace shows the
voltage between it and another output, ie,
the inter-phase voltage. The inter-phase
voltage is measured using an RC low-pass
filter (8.2kΩ/33nF).
Scope1 has a faster time base and only
shows a portion of the sinewave along
to be run at 50% above their normal
speed but with decreasing power and
torque.
Pool pump mode
We expect the most common application for this controller will be
to reduce the energy consumption of
domestic pool pumps. Most pool
pump motors are PSC (Permanent
Split Capacitor) types and so are suitable for use with this speed controller.
Running your pool pump at around
70% of rated speed can result in significant energy (and cost) savings with
little or no impact on the effectiveness
of the filtration. Various commercial
products are available to do this job
but this unit should cost less to build
and has some other advantages such
as less radio frequency interference.
Pool pumps ideally require a short
period of running at full speed when
first switched on, so that the pump
seals warm up and the full flow of
water can push out any air which may
20 Silicon Chip
Scope2 (5ms/div)
with the PWM pulses. Its peak-to-peak
amplitude of 333V corresponds with the
DC bus voltage; our mains voltage was
around 233V at the time this was captured.
Scope2 uses a time base which is too
slow to show the individual 16kHz PWM
pulses, so the scope shows the average
voltage instead, with some switching
pulses still visible. Compare this waveform
to the theoretical shape shown in Fig.4 and
you will find that they are quite similar.
have accumulated in the system. We
have designed the Induction Motor
Speed Controller with a special pool
pump mode that first ramps the motor
up to full speed and holds it there for
30 seconds, before ramping down to
the preset level.
Right at the point of starting, the motor receives a little extra voltage to help
overcome the stiction that can occur
when the pump seals are cold. During
the 30-second hold time, the green LED
remains on but flickers quickly.
We have also added a “tool spinup” mode which is very similar to
pool pump mode except that the time
spent at full speed is reduced to about
half a second. This mode is useful for
driving lathes at low speed as it gives
enough voltage initially to overcome
stiction and then ramps down to the
desired operating speed once the motor is spinning.
3-phase motors
You may be wondering how a
The inter-phase sinewave peak-to-peak
voltage (644V) is nearly double the peakto-peak voltage of the PWM waveform
(333V), as we expect. The measured RMS
voltage of 226.6V is very close to what we
would expect (227.7V RMS).
The actual sinewave frequency is slightly
above 50Hz, due to microcontroller’s
internal RC oscillator tolerance of ±2%
(-40 to 85°C), giving a frequency range
of 49-51Hz for full speed.
controller with 230VAC input and
output can drive 3-phase induction
motors, since these are normally rated
for a 400VAC supply (415VAC with
240VAC mains).
Fortunately, most 3-phase induction
motors rated up to about 2.2kW actually have 230V windings. These are
normally wired in “star” configuration
(Fig.2), with two windings between
consecutive phases for 400V operation. With a balanced load, the star
junction voltage is near neutral potential and so each winding is driven
with the phase-to-neutral voltage,
230V RMS.
Alternatively, these motors can be
run in “delta” configuration, with one
winding between consecutive phases,
for operation with single-phase input
3-phase inverters like this one.
The wiring change to reconfigure
a motor from star to delta is made by
repositioning a set of jumpers inside
the motor’s terminal box. The jumpers
come with the motor and there is ususiliconchip.com.au
PWM
DRIVE
FOR U
OUTPUT
EFFECTIVE
U OUTPUT
WAVEFORM
325V
P-P
120°
PWM
DRIVE
FOR V
OUTPUT
EFFECTIVE
V OUTPUT
WAVEFORM
325V
P-P
120°
PWM
DRIVE
FOR W
OUTPUT
EFFECTIVE
W OUTPUT
WAVEFORM
325V
P-P
U–V
V-W
W-U
W
EFFECTIVE
BETWEENPHASE
VOLTAGES
230V
RMS
(650V
P-P)
U
V
Fig.4: in operation, 16kHz PWM is used to generate identical waveforms with different phases from all three outputs
(U, V & W). The motor winding(s) are connected between these outputs and so are driven with the difference between
them. When we subtract these wavforms from each other, the result is three 230V RMS sinewaves, also 120° out of
phase. To reverse the motor, the controller simply swaps the phase of two of the outputs.
ally a diagram of their configuration on
the motor rating plate or on the inside
of the terminal box cover.
With the speed controller’s DC “bus”
at a nominal 325V, each phase voltage is limited to 325V peak-to-peak,
or 115V RMS if we generate a pure
sinewave. This would give us an interphase voltage of:
115V x √3 = 200V RMS.
However, it is possible to generate
the required 230V RMS sinewave
between the three phases by deliberately making each phase output nonsinusoidal. We do this by adding the
third harmonic, as shown in Fig.4. The
siliconchip.com.au
resultant “squashed” sinewaves from
each output give pure phase-to-phase
sinewaves with voltages of 650V peakto-peak or 230V RMS.
How it works
Fig.3 is a block diagram of the AC
Speed Controller showing the basic
building blocks. The mains is rectified and filtered to provide the DC bus
of about 325V. This feeds a 3-phase
bridge of six IGBTs (insulated gate
bipolar transistors) which pulse-width
modulate the DC bus to synthesise
sinusoidal phase-to-phase voltages.
The switching frequency is 16kHz and
the inductance of the motor filters this
waveform to produce a motor current
that is almost purely sinusoidal.
The modulation applied to each output is actually a mixture of two sine
waves, one at the desired frequency
and one with a lower amplitude at
three times that frequency (ie, its third
harmonic). The waveform generated
by each pair of IGBTs is identical but
displaced from the others by 120°.
The phase sequence can be swapped
by the microcontroller to reverse the
direction of the motor’s rotation.
The third harmonic is unaffected by
this displacement as 3 x 120° = 360°.
April 2012 21
FLT1 EMI FILTER
FUSE1
ACTIVE
+325V (NOMINAL)
TH1
SL32 10015
BR1
+
θ
10A
~
EARTH
~
NEUTRAL
470 µF
400V
470 µF
400V
470 µF
400V
K
T1
A
A
K
100nF
100nF
K
D1
6V + 6V 5VA
D4
K
D6
A
A
+
A
+3.3V
OPTO1
4N35
470Ω
OUT
IN
ADJ
1
5
110
λ
4
470 µF
100nF
2
100nF
D8
D7
6V + 6V 5VA
_
K
A
REG1 LM317T
12V
DC
FAN
470 µF
K
1.5k
100nF
D9
K
ADDED
(OFFBOARD)
K
D5
6V
K
A
~7V
6V
NE-2
10k
ZD1
5.1V
A
A
T2
150k
CHANGED
VALUE
470Ω
0.5W
D3
470 µF
25V
6V
4.7k
5W
K
D2
6V
150k
4.7k
5W
–
CON3
4.7k
5W
180
ISOLATION
BARRIER
A
ALL CIRCUITRY AND COMPONENTS IN THIS AREA ARE
ISOLATED FROM MAINS & FLOATING WITH RESPECT TO EARTH
LEDS
+3.3V
Vin
K
A
GND
1
E
C
ESTOP
OUT
ADJ
IN
ZD1, ZD2
K
D1– D9: 1N4004
A
OUT
GND
100Ω
HEATSINK
THERMISTOR
TH2
1
100nF
100nF
CON7
2
3
100nF
K
ZD2
15V
CON6
A
C
Q1
BC337
B
680Ω
E
K
A
λ LED1
K
SC
2012
100nF
3
CON5
GND
100nF
SPEED
100Ω
2
REV
VR1
10k
1.5k
1
RUN
LM317T
A
4.7k
4.7k
RAMP
θ
BC337
VR2
10k
100nF
+3.3V
CON4
B
OUT
100Ω
2
3
A
λ LED2
K
A
λ LED3
K
1.5KW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
Fig.5: the full circuit diagram of the 1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller PCB. The incoming mains is rectified
by BR1 to provide a +325V DC bus. This powers 3-phase IGBT bridge IC1 which switches the voltage to the motor via
CON2. A 0.015Ω resistor in its ground path provides current feedback to Cin (pin 16) for over-current and short-circuit
protection. PIC microcontroller IC3 controls the 3-phase bridge via optocouplers OPTO2 & OPTO3.
22 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
19
620k
220nF
250VAC
X2
620k
22
47nF
250VAC
X2
25
47nF
250VAC
X2
16k
CON2
0.015Ω
24
2W
+15V HOT
W
12
IC2a
4
V
18
8.2k
11
5
U
21
3
1 0 nF
100Ω
+15V
HOT
CHANGED
VALUES
1M
23
Vcc 5
2
Vboot-U
20
17
16
ALL CIRCUITRY IN SIDE
THE PINK AREA
OPERATES AT
DANGEROUSLY HIGH
VOLTAGES – CONTACT
COULD BE LETHAL
Cin
100nF
IC2: LM319
OUT-U
IC1 STGIPS20K60
15 SD/OD
3
Lin-U
4
Hin-U
9
Lin-V
10
Hin-V
13
Lin-W
14
Hin-W
Vboot-V
OUT-V
Vboot-W
OUT-W
GND
1
7
6
12
11
10µF
25V
MMC
10µF
25V
MMC
10 µF
25V
10µF
25V
MMC
8
10
7
IC2b
8
9
6
THIS SYMBOL
INDICATES
'HOT' COMMON
+15V
HOT
OPTO3 HCPL-2531
10Ω
100nF
2
3
4
5
6
7
28
AVdd
100nF
13
100Ω
RB12
AN0
RB14
AN1
RB15
AN 2
RB13
RB1
RB11
RB2
23
100Ω
10
100Ω
11
100Ω
12
RA2
RB10
RB9
RB4
RB8
RB7
RA4
MCLR
PGED
AVss
27
siliconchip.com.au
Vss
8
Vss
19
PGEC
8
λ
7
8.2k
λ
8.2k
8.2k
6
5
26
24
22
OPTO2 HCPL-2531
100Ω
10 µF
6.3V
MMC
RA3
4
3
25
20
C1IN+
1
2
Vdd
IC3
dsPIC33FJ64MC802
9
100Ω
+3.3V
21
17
18
16
1
14
15
1
2
100Ω
4
3
POOL
8
λ
7
λ
6
+3.3V
5
EXT
O/S
FLT
47k
ICSP
SOCKET
1
2
3
4
5
JUMPER FOR
SHORT BOOST
MODE
NB: PARTS ARROWED
CHANGED FROM VALUES
SHOWN IN ORIGINAL
CIRCUIT OF APRIL 2012
April 2012 23
C BU
STGIPS20K60
OUT U
Lin
SD/OD
Hin
Hin-U
Vcc
VCC
DT
C VCC
RDT
C DT
CONTROLLER
Rg
D1
U
OUT
Q2
Rg
D2
CP+
Nu
OUT V
Vboot V
Q3
Lin-V
Lin
SD/OD
Hin
Hin-V
VCC
DT
C VCC
RDT
C DT
Vboot
HVG
Rg
D3
V
OUT
MOTOR
Q4
Rg
D4
LVG
GND
C BW
Vboot
HVG
LVG
GND
C BV
VDC
Q1
Lin-U
Vcc
P
Vboot U
CP+
Nv
OUT W
Vboot W
Q5
Lin-W
Lin
SD/OD
Hin
Hin-W
+3.5/5.5V
SD/OD
RSD
C VCC
RDT
GND
VCC
DT
C DT
GND
Vboot
HVG
Rg
D5
W
OUT
Q6
Rg
D6
LVG
CP+
Nw
C IN
C SD
R
C
Rshunt
Fig.6: typical application of the STGIPS20K60 IGBT bridge, redrawn from the data sheet. Each pair of IGBTs
have parallel free-wheeling diodes and drive one of the motor terminals. The associated control blocks drive the
IGBT gates, generating the high drive voltage for the upper IGBT in each pair (in combination with external boost
capacitors) and providing dead time during switching to prevent cross-conduction. The module also features overcurrent protection via the CIN input and has a shut-down input (SD-bar/OD) which also acts as a fault output.
Since the windings are connected
between output pairs, it cancels out
and the voltage across each winding
varies in a purely sinusoidal fashion.
The third harmonic component exists
only to allow us to increase the modulation to provide 230V RMS without
clipping the peaks (see Fig.4).
For a 1.5kW single-phase induction
motor, the normal full-load current
is over 8A RMS. Allowing for a 50%
margin and taking into account the
peak current, the output switches must
therefore be capable of switching about
18A. This presents a formidable design
challenge. We need output devices
capable of switching at 16kHz, rated
for 600V and nearly 20A continuously.
The diodes across the switches must
be similarly rated.
The low-side IGBT drivers are referenced to the negative line of the DC
bus but the high-side drivers must
24 Silicon Chip
float on their respective output line
and these are switching up and down
at high speed. In addition, we need to
monitor the DC current and voltage in
order to protect the controller from
fault conditions.
Fortunately, these days it’s possible
to buy a power module combining six
600V 20A IGBTs, six matching freewheel diodes, all the necessary drivers
and level-shifting circuitry plus the
over-current protection circuit, all for
about $20. As a bonus, the whole lot
is encapsulated in an isolated-base
package measuring just 20 x 45 x
5mm.
This device we chose (the STGIPS
20K60 from ST Microelectronics)
requires a 15V DC supply referenced
to the negative side of the DC bus. The
microcontroller and the rest of the
circuitry must be optically isolated
from the high-voltage circuitry and
is therefore powered by a separate
isolated power supply.
Circuit description
Now take a look at the full circuit
diagram, Fig.5. As shown, the mains
input passes through a protective fuse
and EMI (electromagnetic interference) filter FLT1 before being rectified
and filtered in the classical manner.
NTC thermistor TH1 is wired in
series with the rectifier to limit the inrush current when the DC bus capacitors are discharged. This thermistor
has a resistance of about 10Ω when
cold, limiting the peak current to 35A.
As the thermistor begins to conduct,
it heats up and its resistance drops
dramatically. When conducting 8A,
its resistance is around 100mΩ.
The EMI filter is included to help
minimise the conduction of noise
back onto the mains. EMI is a major
siliconchip.com.au
issue for drives of this kind because
the very fast switching of very high
voltages generates a lot of electrical
noise. Thanks to this filter and the
other precautions taken with this design, the radio interference produced
by this design is significantly lower
than that of commercial equivalents
we have tested.
The DC bus is filtered by three 470μF
400V electrolytic capacitors. These capacitors store an enormous amount of
energy and they could remain charged
to lethal levels for many minutes after
the power is removed. We have added
a series string of three 4.7kΩ power
resistors across the bus to discharge it.
Even so, it takes a minute or so for the
bus to discharge to a safe level.
As a further protection, a neon lamp
is wired across the bus to indicate the
presence of dangerous voltages. You
should not attempt to work on this circuit even when the power is removed
unless the neon is out. Even then you
should check with a multimeter!
Incidentally, two 150kΩ resistors are
used in series with the neon because
one standard 0.25W resistor does not
have sufficient voltage rating.
The 220nF X2 capacitor across the
bus provides a low-impedance path
for differential-mode noise, while
the two 47nF X2 capacitors serve a
similar function for common-mode
noise. These are also part of the EMI
suppression, as well as providing a
high-frequency bypass for the DC bus.
The DC bus current is monitored
by a low-inductance surface-mount
0.015Ω 2W shunt resistor. The voltage
across this resistor is filtered by a 100Ω
resistor and 10nF capacitor before
being fed into pin 16 of the power
module, IC1. When this input reaches
+0.54V (corresponding to about 36A),
it immediately shuts down the IGBTs
and signals an over-current fault.
IC1 requires a 15V supply (+15VHOT)
referenced to the negative leg of the DC
bus. The 10µF capacitor between pins
5 & 8 of IC1 decouples this supply,
right at the point it enters IC1.
Three 10µF capacitors are required
for the high-side driver bootstrap
power supplies. These capacitors are
charged from the +15VHOT rail via diodes inside IC1 each time the low-side
IGBTs turn on. They provide a highside power rail floating on each of the
output terminals. We selected low-cost
surface-mount ceramic types in 0805
packages for these capacitors since
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: this diagram
illustrates the difference
between traditional
edge-aligned PWM and
centre-aligned PWM
(also known as dualramp PWM). With
centre-aligned PWM,
the leading edge of each
pulse moves as the duty
cycle changes. This is
an advantage because
if all outputs switch
high at the same time,
as with edge-aligned
PWM, the total current
pulse is larger and so
more EMI is generated.
DUTY CYCLE 1
DUTY CYCLE 2
PWM 1
PWM 2
EDGE-ALIGNED PWM
DUTY CYCLE 1
DUTY CYCLE 2
PWM 1
PWM 2
CENTRE-ALIGNED PWM
they must have very low impedance.
Each of the six output switches can
be controlled independently but the
STGIPS20K60 allows for the high and
low-side inputs to be connected, so that
only three control lines are required.
When these signals change state, an
internal dead-time circuit inside IC1
ensures that the upper and lower IGBTs
never conduct at the same time.
The three inputs are driven from the
microcontroller via high-speed HCPL2531 optocouplers (OPTO2 & OPTO3)
and associated 8.2kΩ pull-up resistors.
High-speed optocouplers with wellmatched turn-on and turn-off times
are necessary as the switching pulses
become very narrow when the duty
cycle of the modulation approaches
0 or 100%.
Pin 15 of the power module (IC1)
is both an input and output. If an
over-current or other fault is detected
within IC1, it pulls this pin low. It
also monitors the voltage on this pin
and shuts down the power stages if
it is driven low externally. Thus, the
micro can pull this line down to shut
off the IGBT bridge.
In our case, pin 15 can be pulled
low by the open-collector output of
comparator IC2a (LM319). This comparator compares the DC bus voltage
(via a voltage divider) with a 5.1V
reference derived from ZD1 and associated components. If the DC voltage
exceeds 400V, a fault is triggered. The
10kΩ and 1MΩ resistors provide some
hysteresis for this comparator.
Pin 15 can also be pulled low by
the microcontroller via one half of the
high-speed optocoupler pair OPTO3.
The other half of the LM319 dual
comparator, IC2b, is used to monitor
the voltage at pin 15 of IC1 and signals
the microcontroller via 4N35 optocoupler OPTO1 if it falls below +5.1V.
This tells the microcontroller that one
or other of the protection circuits described above has been activated and
that the IGBTs have been switched off.
The +15VHOT supply is derived
via a conventional rectifier (D1-D4)
and filter capacitors from the 12VAC
produced by transformer T1. This
supply is effectively at 230VAC mains
potential, so a second isolated supply
is required for the control circuitry.
Transformer T2 and the associated rectifier (D5-D8) and 470μF filter capacitor provide about +8V DC to LM317T
linear regulator REG1 which in turn
drops this to the +3.3V required by
the microcontroller.
Microcontroller
The microcontroller (IC3) is a Microchip dsPIC33FJ64MC802. This is
April 2012 25
Single-Phase Induction Motors
Shaded Pole 4
A shorted turn on the corner of the stator
poles distorts the magnetic field to create a
weak starting torque. Shaded pole motors
are inefficient due to the shorted turn and so
usually limited to low power motors such as
found in small domestic fans and blowers.
These motors can be used with a speed
controller such as the one described here
a 16-bit device with 64k bytes of flash
and 16k bytes of RAM. The letters MC
in the part number indicate that it is
optimised for motor control applications. More on this later.
The micro requires all the usual
supply bypass capacitors. The 10µF
capacitor connected to pin 20 is the
bypass for the 2.5V CPU core power
supply. This has to be a low impedance
type and mounted close to the device
pins. We used a surface-mount ceramic
chip capacitor here.
The analog parts of the micro are
powered from the AVdd pin so this is
connected to a low-noise 3.3V supply
filtered by a 10Ω resistor and 100nF
capacitor. This low-noise 3.3V rail also
26 Silicon Chip
START WINDING
RUN WINDING
RUN WINDING
RUN WINDING
START WINDING
SHADED POLE
CAPACITOR START
PERMANENT SPLIT CAPACITOR
START WINDING
CAPACITOR START/RUN
but generally that would be an expensive
solution for a low-power device.
Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) 4
A start winding in series with a capacitor produces a second, weaker field
slightly out of phase with the main field. The
capacitor and start winding are connected
permanently so they are designed to draw
a relatively modest current and are rated
for continuous operation.
PSC motors have low starting torque
and are very reliable since there is no
centrifugal switch. Typically used for fans
and centrifugal (pool & spa) pumps up to
about 2kW, these are suitable for use with
a speed controller.
feeds trimpots VR1 & VR2.
Pins 2, 3 & 4 on IC3 are connected
to the microcontroller’s ADC and read
the internal speed, ramp rate (trimpots
VR1 & VR2) and external speed potentiometer setting (from CON4) respectively. The 100nF capacitors on these
inputs provide a degree of filtering.
The RUN and REV (reverse) terminals at CON5 are connected to digital
inputs on the micro via simple RC filters. These are active-low inputs with
4.7kΩ resistors to pull the lines high
when the terminals are open.
Heatsink temperature
An NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor connected to CON7
RUN WINDING
START WINDING
RUN WINDING
With a 3-phase supply, achieving a rotating magnetic field is simple since three
windings can be positioned around the
stator so that the resulting field “drags”
the rotor around. Swap any two of the
phases and the field will rotate in the opposite direction.
With a single-phase supply, there is only
one winding and this can only produce a
pulsating field. There is no torque on the
rotor when it is stationary, so it cannot
start without some impulse to get it going.
Once moving, the torque builds up and
there is no further problem. Of course,
the motor will rotate equally well in either
direction, depending on the sense of this
initial kick. You can’t change the direction
of these motors electrically, like you can
with 3-phase types.
There are quite a few different schemes
used to give this initial kick-start. Manufacturers have not adopted a common set of
terms to describe their various approaches,
so the whole topic is potentially confusing.
Below, we have summarised a few of
the more common starting mechanisms,
together with their characteristics and
applications:
CENTRIFUGAL START SWITCH
Capacitor Start 8
These are similar to the PSC motor in
that a capacitor and start winding create
a phase-shifted field for starting. The
capacitor is larger and the start winding
designed to draw significantly more current and therefore provides a much higher
starting torque.
The start winding and capacitor are not
necessarily rated for continuous operation and waste a lot of energy so must be
switched out by a centrifugal switch, typically when the motor reaches about 70%
of full speed.
They are used for conveyors, large fans,
pumps and geared applications requiring
high starting torque. Capacitor Start mo-
monitors the heatsink temperature. At
room temperature, the thermistor has a
resistance of about 10kΩ and together
with the 1.5kΩ resistor, forms a voltage
divider, presenting about +3.0V at pin
7 of IC1. This input is configured as
an analog comparator, with a programmable threshold voltage.
As the temperature of the heatsink
rises, the resistance of the thermistor
drops and the voltage on pin 7 falls.
If the voltage falls below +1.4V, corresponding to a heatsink temperature of
about 85°C, an over-temperature fault
is triggered. This fault can be triggered
externally by pulling the ESTOP terminal (at CON5) low, effectively shorting
the thermistor.
siliconchip.com.au
tors are not suitable for variable speed use
because at lower speeds the centrifugal
switch will close and the start winding and/
or capacitor may burn out.
Capacitor Start/Run 8
These are the “big guns” of single-phase
motors and are used for machine tools,
compressors, brick saws, cement mixers,
etc. They have a large start capacitor that
is switched out by a centrifugal switch and
a smaller run capacitor that is permanently
connected to the start winding. They have
very high starting torque and good overload
performance.
Unfortunately, for the same reason as
the capacitor start motors, they cannot be
used with variable speed drives. A 3-phase
motor is recommended in these applications if speed control is desirable.
Centrifugal Start Switch 8
Commonly used on small bench grinders and column drills, these motors arrange
a phase-shifted field with a resistive winding. Again, the start winding is only rated
for short, intermittent operation (due to its
high resistance) and will burn out if operated frequently or continuously.
NOTE: in spite of the above warnings, some
readers may want to try using the Induction
Motor Speed Controller with motors using
a centrifugal switch to energise the start
winding. The main danger is that the start
winding may be burnt out if it is energised
for too long, due to it being energised
at prolonged low speeds. There is also
a risk that the over-current protection in
the Speed Controller will simply prevent
normal operation.
Since start-up is hard on the IGBTs,
an additional temperature check is
made before the motor is spun up.
If the heatsink temperature is above
about 65°C, the unit waits for it to drop
before starting the motor. This protects
the unit from damage in case multiple
rapid start/stop cycles occur. During
normal use, this additional protection
should not activate.
NPN transistor Q1 drives an external load (perhaps a relay or lamp)
connected to the OUT terminal. ZD2
provides some protection for Q1 in
case the load is slightly inductive.
Highly inductive loads, such as relay
coils, should have a clamp diode
connected directly across them. The
siliconchip.com.au
load should be limited to 200mA at a
maximum of 12V.
The three indicator LEDs are driven
directly from the micro via current
limiting resistors, as are the LEDs in
the HCPL-2531 optocouplers.
The 4-way DIP switch is connected
directly to the microcontroller. Internal pull-ups on these inputs eliminate
the need for external resistors. An ICSP
header is also provided, allowing incircuit reprogramming should this be
necessary.
Pulse-width modulation
The dsPIC33FJ64MC802 microcontroller contains a peripheral especially
adapted for motor control PWM applications. It allows the generation
of various types of PWM waveforms
with up to 16-bit resolution. The pulse
width registers are double-buffered
so the pulse width can be updated
asynchronously, without any risk of
glitches in the output. This is critical
for the safe and smooth operation of
the controller.
We have elected to use a 16kHz
switching frequency, which gives us
a good balance between quiet motor
operation and switching losses in the
output devices. We also selected centre-aligned PWM modulation instead
of the more common edge-aligned
PWM because this gives much better
harmonic performance.
In edge-aligned PWM (see Fig.7), the
outputs are all set high when a counter
rolls over to zero. When the counter
value reaches one of the duty cycle
thresholds, the appropriate output
goes low. This creates PWM with the
rising edges of each channel aligned.
In centre-aligned PWM, the counter
counts up for the first half of the PWM
period and down for the second half.
The relevant outputs are set high when
the counter counts down through the
duty-cycle threshold and high when it
counts up through the threshold. Each
resulting individual PWM waveform is
identical to the edge-aligned case but
none of the edges are aligned.
Generating sinusoidal PWM
To generate quasi-sinusoidal (or
“squashed” sinewave) PWM, we have
to change the duty cycle for each
phase smoothly, allowing for variable
frequency and amplitude and having
regard for the relative phases of the
three outputs.
We start with a look-up table con-
taining 512 16-bit samples of the
desired output waveform (a mixture
of two sinewaves with different amplitudes); the values in this table range between -1 and +1. By stepping a pointer
through this table at the appropriate
rate and multiplying the looked-up
value by the required amplitude we
can calculate the duty cycle necessary
to produce variable voltage, variable
frequency PWM.
We maintain three pointers into the
table, initialised at the beginning, one
third and two-thirds through the table
respectively. They are all incremented
by the same amount so they maintain
this phase relationship as they move
through the table, producing three
waveforms displaced by 120°.
With a 16kHz modulation rate,
we have only 62.5 microseconds to
increment the three pointers, look
up the sine values, multiply each by
the amplitude, then scale and offset
the three results to calculate the duty
cycle values. This is a reasonably tight
time frame, so this part of the firmware
was written in assembly language and
hand-optimised for speed.
But by how much should we increment the look-up table pointers? If
we incremented the pointers by one
each 62.5 microseconds, one cycle
would take 62.5μs x 512 = 32ms, giving
31.25Hz. Clearly we must somehow
increment the pointers by a fractional
amount, ranging from nearly zero to
2.4, with a few digits resolution.
The solution was to create a 32-bit
accumulator for each pointer, and to
use bits 17 through 25 as the 9-bit
pointer into the table. Now incrementing the accumulator at 62.5μs
would produce an output frequency of
0.000238Hz! So for 1Hz output, we increment the accumulators by roughly
4200 and for 50Hz, about 210,000.
We don’t need this kind of frequency
resolution, so the firmware limits the
range from 0.5 to 50Hz (or 75Hz) and
the resolution to 0.05Hz.
The control routine of the firmware is a fairly straightforward state
machine that controls the frequency
and voltage set points for the PWM
generation part, according to the state
of the various inputs.
Coming next month
Next month we will provide full
details of the construction, testing and
installation for the 1.5kW Induction
SC
Motor Speed Controller.
April 2012 27
Soft
SoftStarter
Starter – tames
Are you alarmed by the juicy “splattt” from your mains power point
when you plug in something like a large plasma TV set? Do you sometimes burn out light and power point switches because of the surge
currents at switch-on? Or perhaps you occasionally trip circuit breakers
because of appliance switch-on surge currents. This is a very common
problem but there is a simple cure: our SoftStarter. It tames those nasty
surge currents while having no effect on appliance performance.
By NICHOLAS VINEN
T
his project was triggered by a number of readers experiencing problems with switch-on surge currents.
The first was a school teacher who wanted to
switch on banks of laptop computers in a language laboratory. Each time he attempted to do so it would trip out the
mains circuit breakers. The breakers would trip out even
though the total power drain of the laptops was far less
than the breaker’s rated current.
Eventually he found that the only way to switch on
without tripping the breakers was to switch on the laptops
in groups of three or four.
The second instance was a reader who fitted a large number of 10W compact fluorescent lamps to a large chandelier
– he was trying to toe the government line by not using
those nasty (but attractive candle style) incandescent lamps.
He found that each time he switched on the chandelier, it
tripped the 10A breaker.
We have a similar problem in the SILICON CHIP offices
with computer workstations comprising two monitors
and a desktop PC. Each combination has around 1.15µF
of capacitance at the mains plug and it can draw in well
excess of 100A when switched on!
Worse, one of our staff members measured the input capacitance of his current model Panasonic 50-inch plasma
TV at 1.3µF, between Active & Neutral (with its mains
switch off). Add in the capacitance of a DVD player and
VCR used to feed the Plasma set and you can start to see
there is a major problem.
All of the above problems relate to appliances which
have switch-mode power supplies. In essence, these look
and behave like a large capacitor being switched across
the 230VAC mains supply. No wonder you get a big splat
from the power switch.
Fig.1 shows the essentials of a switch-mode power supply. There is typically a 470nF capacitor connected directly
between the Active and Neutral leads followed by a bridge
rectifier feeding a 470µF 400V electrolytic capacitor to develop around 325V before the switch-mode circuitry itself.
No wonder these circuits generate such big surge currents.
We did a simulation of this circuit to get a handle on how
big these currents can be. Fig.2 tells the story. Depending
on the moment of actual switch-on, the peak current can
easily be more than 200A and this is backed up by some
scope measurements which tell the same story.
+
A
RSOURCE
~
N
Mains
Supply
E
GPO
470nF
250VAC
X2
~
470F
400V
Switchmode
Circuitry
RESR
.34
RLOAD
DC Output(s)
–
Fig.1: the configuration of a typical switch-mode power supply. An X2 capacitor (typically 100-470nF) is connected
between Active and Neutral to reduce the amount of switching noise that couples from the switching circuitry back into
the mains leads. The 230VAC is then rectified and filtered to produce around 325V DC and this is converted to lower
regulated DC voltages by the switch-mode module. Also shown is typical capacitor bank ESR (equivalent series resistance)
and the mains source impedance due to cabling etc, both of which affect the unit’s peak current draw at start-up.
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
the surge current menace!
Here’s the
SoftStarter in
the form we believe
will be the most popular
– in line with a 4-way powerboard which means four different
devices (computer, monitor, modem
and CFL desk lamp for example) all can
have their switch-mode supplies “tamed”.
Note that some switch-mode power supplies have active
power factor correction (active PFC) which involves extra
circuitry. This reduces the in-rush current but there is still
an initial surge as the storage capacitor(s) charge.
And while no switch-mode circuitry is involved, a similar
surge current problem can occur when large transformers
are followed by bridge rectifiers and large capacitors.
Think about the reader who built a very large power
amplifier with a 1kVA toroid power transformer. Switching it on could also trip a circuit breaker or cause the room
lights to momentarily flicker.
The SoftStarter solution
We actually tried several different approaches before
coming up with the SoftStarter. Perhaps the simplest and
most obvious approach is just to wire a high current NTC
(negative temperature coefficient) thermistor in series with
the 230VAC mains supply, eg, inside a power board.
WARNING!
This Soft Start circuit is powered directly from the 230VAC
mains and operates at lethal voltages. DO NOT TOUCH
ANY PART OF THE CIRCUIT WHILE IT IS PLUGGED INTO A
MAINS OUTLET OR CONNECTED TO MAINS WIRING and do
not operate the circuit outside its plastic case or without
the lid screwed onto the case.
These devices initially have a fairly high resistance which
drops quickly as they heat up. The high initial resistance
limits the in-rush current and after a shortt period, this
drops enough to allow normal current to flow into the load
after the initial surge.
The problem is that they run really hot – up to 228°C or
higher! This is unavoidable since they rely on the heat to
Switchmode Supply Power-on Simulation (RSOURCE = 0.5, RLOAD = 100) with 10 NTC
Switchmode Supply Power-on Simulation (RSOURCE = 0.5, RLOAD = 100)
+100
50
20
0
10
-100
-200
1
-300
200
+200
Potential (Volts)
Potential (Volts)
100
Mains At Socket
Capacitor Bank
Mains Current
Mains Current (Amps) - logarithmic
200
+200
100
Mains At Socket
Capacitor Bank
Mains Current
+100
50
20
0
10
-100
-200
1
Mains Current (Amps) - logarithmic
+300
+300
-300
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Time (milliseconds)
Time (milliseconds)
Fig.2: SPICE simulation of Fig.1. Mains source impedances
are set to 0.5Ω and the load resistance is 100Ω. Inrush
current peaks at over 200A, limited by the mains source
impedance, bridge rectifier impedance and capacitor bank
ESR. The capacitor bank charges almost completely in
the first half-cycle. The high current distorts the mains
waveform both during the initial in-rush and at the voltage
peaks where some “flat-topping” is visible.
Fig.3: SPICE simulation with the same circuit as shown
in Fig.1 but with a 10Ω 15A NTC thermistor connected in
series between the mains socket and suppression capacitor/
bridge rectifier. The capacitor bank charges more slowly,
over several cycles and peak current is reduced to around
30A (close to our measurements). Note how the bridge
conducts for a longer period, even after the capacitor bank
has charged.
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 29
ACTIVE
OUT
ACTIVE
IN
RLY1
S 4162A (10A) OR
JQX-105F-24 (20A)
1
TH1
SL32 10015
2
+24V
150nF*
250VAC X2
(FOR 10A
RELAY)
10M
1W
470 1W
*OR 330nF
250V AC X2
(FOR 20A RELAY)
D1
1N4004
A
EARTH
D5
1N4004
D2
1N4004
1M
A
K
D4
1N4004
A
A
ZD1
24V
1W
220F
35V
B
C
Q1
BC547
E
C
B
47F
16V
4
10M
Q2
BC547
E
10M
3
CON1
A
K
K
D3
1N4004
A
NEUTRAL
K
K
K
NOTE: ALL CIRCUITRY AND
COMPONENTS IN THIS PROJECT
MAY BE AT MAINS POTENTIAL.
CONTACT COULD BE FATAL!
0V
BC547
SC
2012
SOFT STARTER
1N4004
A
K
ZD1
A
B
K
E
C
Fig.4: the complete circuit diagram of the SoftStarter. NTC thermistor TH1 limits inrush current and after about two
seconds, it is shorted out by relay RLY1 for minimal heat generation and power loss. NPN transistors Q1 & Q2 drive the
relay coil and their switch-on is delayed by the 47µF capacitor. The +24V rail is derived from mains using an X2 series
capacitor, bridge rectifier and zener diode.
lower their resistance and allow enough current to flow.
Plainly, they run too hot to be installed inside a plastic
power board; they would melt the plastic! Apart from that,
it’s a waste of power. Depending on the load current, dissipation could be in excess of 5W.
Our solution is simple – we use a relay to short out the
thermistor after a few seconds. The voltage drop across the
relay is very low and so there’s virtually no power loss apart
from that required to keep the relay energised. In the case
of our SoftStarter, this is less than half a watt.
The proof that it works is in Fig.6. This shows the same
computer set-up as in Fig.5 being switched on with the
SoftStarter connected in series. The inrush current is now
limited to around 25A.
Note that the current waveform is much smoother and
lacks the big initial spike. Note also that the power supply
capacitors charge over many more mains cycles than they
would without the SoftStarter connected.
A number of scope screen grabs in this article reinforce
the story: without the SoftStarter you get big in-rush currents and splats from the power switch. Those splats, by
the way, are not just annoying: each one is responsible
for just a little more of the switch contacts melting and
wearing away.
Fig.5: current for a computer workstation over the first few
mains cycles after power is applied The initial draw of
103.6A is due to the initial charging of the capacitor banks
in the switchmode supplies. The second half-cycle peak is
much lower.
Fig.6: the same situation as Fig.5 but with the SoftStarter
in use. Maximum current draw is much lower at 25.3A for
the first half-cycle and 14.1A for the second. The capacitor
banks charge more gradually, over five full mains cycles or
so (100ms).
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Here are the two versions of the SoftStarter – on the left the PCB is attached to the base of a standard electrical junction
box (in this case an Arlec 9071 but it could be a Clipsal, HPM etc). This version has the 20A relay but again, it could be the
10A relay. On the right is the same board (with 10A relay) placed inside a standard UB3 Jiffy box, as shown in the photo
at the start of this article.
With the SoftStarter everything is sweetness and light
and there is no drama at switch-on.
Two versions
The SoftStarter can be built in two different ways. First,
its PCB can be housed inside a UB3 jiffy box in-line with
a standard power board, extension lead or equipment
mains lead. It also fits into a standard electrical junction
box so that it can be permanently wired into, say, a lighting
circuit. It can handle loads of up to 10A or 2300W. That’s
the maximum load rating of a typical residential power
point (or GPO – which stands for General Purpose Outlet).
Circuit description
Refer now to Fig.4, the complete circuit diagram. Incom-
Fig.7: current flow for a 300VA toroidal transformer
charging a large capacitor bank through a bridge rectifier,
at switch-on. Peak current draw is 24A on the first cycle
and 14A on the second. It could be much higher with a
larger transformer.
siliconchip.com.au
ing mains power is wired to the ACTIVE IN and NEUTRAL
terminals while the load is connected to the ACTIVE OUT
and NEUTRAL terminals.
NTC thermistor TH1 is permanently connected between
the incoming Active line and the load.
This is an SL32 10015 thermistor has a nominal resistance at 25°C of 10Ω, falling to 0.048Ω at 228°C, which
is its sustained body operating temperature with a load
current of 15A. That is its rated maximum steady state
current and it takes around four minutes to reach operating temperature under full load conditions.
In our application, this will never happen as it’s shorted
out after about two seconds by the contacts of relay RLY1.
NTC thermistors have a few advantages over power
resistors in this role.
Fig.8: the toroidal transformer based power supply, this
time with the SoftStarter connected up. The inrush is much
lower with a peak of 14A on the first cycle and 11A on the
second. Current is drawn over a larger portion of the mains
cycle.
April 2012 31
TH1 SL32 10015
SILICON
CHIP
© 2012
SoftStarter
RLY1
S4162A
D3
4004
4004
BC547
Q1
10M
10M
1M
24V
ZD1
D4
470 1W
10M 1W
(330nF X2)
BC547 Q2
47F
+
NEUTRAL
150nF X2
EARTH
4004
ACTIVE IN
D5
ACTIVE OUT
(JQX-105F-24)
220F
+
CON1
35V
WARNING:
230V AC!
D1
4004
D1-D5
1N4004
4004
D2
Fig.9 the component overlay for the SoftStarter with
a straight-on shot of the PCB at right for comparison.
Take care with the mains wiring and NEVER operate the
SoftStarter with the lid off the case – it bites!
Firstly, they are rated to handle the very high (~250W)
initial dissipation. Secondly, their natural drop in resistance as they heat up provides a gradual increase in current.
Finally, they are much more compact than a typical
power resistor of equivalent current rating.
There are no timer ICs or oscillators in this circuit. Instead, the relay time delay of two seconds is provided by
the low-pass filter formed by the 1MΩ resistor and 47µF
capacitor, in combination with the base-emitter voltages
of NPN transistors Q1 & Q2.
At switch-on, the 220µF capacitor is initially charged
to 24V and the 47µF capacitor starts out discharged. After
a couple of seconds, when the charge across the 47µF capacitor reaches about 1.5V, the Darlington formed by NPN
transistors Q1 and Q2 turns on and energises the relay. Its
contacts short out the NTC thermistor, applying the full
230VAC to whatever is being switched.
After that, the full load current passes through the relay
until such time as incoming mains power is switched off.
After a second or so, the 220µF capacitor discharges and
the relay switches off. Diode D5 protects Q1 & Q2 from the
resulting inductive voltage spike.
After switch-off, the 47µF capacitor discharges via its parallel 10MΩ resistor (also via Q1’s base-emitter junction and
the 1MΩ resistor). After about 30 seconds it’s sufficiently
discharged for the unit to be switched back on again with
close to the normal two-second delay.
If it’s switched back on earlier, the delay will be shorter
but should still be sufficient.
Power supply
The 24V rail is derived from the 230VAC mains using
a capacitor/zener regulated supply. Diodes D1-D4 form a
bridge rectifier feeding the 220µF filter capacitor and 24V
zener diode ZD1 limits the voltage across this capacitor
to around 24V.
If we simply connected the full 230VAC mains to the
input of the rectifier, it and the zener diode would burn
32 Silicon Chip
out in spectacular fashion due to the virtually unlimited
current flow.
This is similar to the problem we are trying to avoid with
the SoftStarter! We need limit this current to a safe level.
The obvious way to do this is to use a resistor but then
that resistor would have about 200V across it and its dissipation would be high, making the circuit very inefficient.
So instead of using resistance we use the reactance of a
capacitor to limit the current. We simply choose one with
an impedance of around 20kΩ at 50Hz.
The formula for capacitor impedance is:
1
(2 π f C)
so for a 150nF capacitor at 50Hz we get 21.2kΩ. This gives
a much higher efficiency; over 50%.
This process is illustrated in Fig.6, the output of SPICE
simulation of the power supply circuit (using a 220nF
capacitor but the principle is the same).
The dashed green trace shows the voltage across the X2
capacitor and the difference between it and the mains voltage waveform (red trace) is the voltage across the rectifier,
which is limited to around ±25V due to the zener diode.
The dashed mauve trace shows the current flowing
through this X2 capacitor while the dotted blue trace shows
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Parts List – SoftStarter
1 PCB, code 10104121, 58 x 76mm
(available from SILICON CHIP for $10 + P&P)
1 6-position, 4-way PCB-mount terminal barrier
(CON1) (Jaycar HM3162, Altronics P2103)
2 M3 x 15mm machine screws with flat washers,
star washers and nuts
1 Ametherm SL32 10015 NTC thermistor
(Element14 1653459)
1 10A 24VDC coil SPDT relay
(Altronics S4162A or equivalent) or
1 JQX-105F-24 20A SPDT relay, 24V DC coil
(Futurlec JQX-105F-24 or equivalent)
1 UB3 jiffy box or mains junction box (eg Arlec 9071)
Semiconductors
2 BC547 100mA NPN transistors (Q1, Q2)
1 24V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
5 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D5)
Capacitors
1 220µF 35V/50V electrolytic
1 47µF 16V electrolytic
1 150nF X2* (Element14 1215452) (for 10A relay) or
1 330nF X2* (Element14 1200831) (for 20A relay)
(* X2 capacitors will have their value printed on them)
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
1 10MΩ 1W (code: brown black blue gold)
2 10MΩ
(code: brown black blue gold)
1 1MΩ
(code: brown black green gold)
1 470Ω 1W (code: yellow violet brown gold)
Additional parts for Jiffy box version
2 cord-grip grommets to suit 7.4-8.2mm cable
(Jaycar HP0716, Altronics H4270)
1 short length 2.5mm diameter heatshrink tubing
1 power board
1 small cable tie
Additional parts for junction box version:
4 No.4 x 9mm self-tapping screws
the product of this current with the mains voltage, ie, the
instantaneous power.
This power figure is positive when the current and voltage are in phase and this represents power drawn from the
mains while when it is negative, the current and voltage
are out of phase and it represents current flowing back
into mains.
As you can see, power tends to be drawn from the mains
when the X2 capacitor is charging, ie, when the voltage
across it is increasing in absolute terms. It is returned to
the mains when this capacitor is discharging. There is also
the additional current flow which is that consumed by
the circuit being driven which is on top of the capacitor
charge/discharge currents.
The actual power consumed is the difference between
that flowing into and out of the circuit. As you can see from
the figure, the area under the curve representing the power
drawn from mains is slightly larger than that returned and
the simulation gives the difference in this case as 421mW.
This is the real power drawn by the circuit.
34 Silicon Chip
A straight-on pic of the alternative mounting,
the mains junction box. This is actually on the
baseplate; the box fits over the top when the
baseplate is mounted (eg, to a joist).
The apparent power is calculated by multiplying the
RMS current by the RMS voltage (ie, 230V). The RMS current is 15.6mA; therefore the apparent power is 3.59VA.
This gives a power factor of 0.421 / 3.59 = 0.12. This may
seem low but given how little actual power the circuit
draws, it isn’t a problem.
If we re-run the calculations using a 150nF capacitor, we
get a real power of 210mW, an RMS current of 10.7mA, an
apparent power of 2.46W and a power factor of 0.085. This
agrees almost exactly with our measurements.
The 10MΩ resistor has negligible effect on the operation of the circuit and simply serves to discharge the X2
capacitor once the unit is unplugged (so you won’t get a
shock if you open up the box). The 470Ω resistor limits the
inrush current when the X2 capacitor is initially charged
to a maximum of 0.5A. Both of these resistors are 1W types
since these are generally rated for use with mains voltages.
An important aspect to note is that while 24V zener diode
ZD1 limits the voltage across the filter capacitor (220µF)
to 24V initially, once the relay is actually energised, the
voltage will drop to around 15-16V and ZD1 no longer
conducts.
The reason for this is that the voltage divider formed by
the reactance of the X2 capacitor, the 470Ω series resistor
and the relay coil resistance (around 1600Ω) limits the
filter capacitor voltage to around 15.8V. This is enough to
keep the relay reliably energised but reduces the power
consumption of the circuit.
Relay & X2 capacitors
One of two specified relays can be used: one is rated
siliconchip.com.au
Capacitor/Zener Mains Power Supply (SPICE Simulation)
20
Power In
Power Out
100
10
0
0
-100
-10
-200
-20
-300
Power (W)
200
Potential (V)
30
Mains 230VAC Input
X2 Capacitor Charge
Current Draw
Power Draw
Current (mA)
300
-20
0
5
10
15
Time (milliseconds)
20
Fig.10: SPICE simulation output showing how the X2
capacitor/zener power supply works. The X2 capacitor
charges and discharges with each mains half-cycle,
dropping the 325V DC peak voltage from mains to 24V.
The extra energy from the higher voltage is stored in the
capacitor and returned to the grid later in the half-cycle.
to switch 10A – it can be an Altronics S4162A or JQC21FF-024. The other is physically larger and is rated at
20A (7200VA) and has type number JQX-105F-24.
We have specified a 150nF X2 capacitor for use with the
10A-rated relay and a 330nF X2 capacitor for the 20A-rated
relay because its coil resistance is lower, at 660Ω.
Construction
The SoftStarter is built on a 58 x 76mm PCB, coded
10104121. It is double-sided with plated through-holes,
so the top layer can carry some of the load current.
Start by fitting the three smaller resistors. Use the colour
code table or a DMM to check their values. Follow with
the five standard diodes and the zener diode, orientated
as shown on the overlay diagram (Fig.9). All diodes have
their cathode stripes facing either the right side or bottom
of the PCB. You can then fit the two 1W resistors, again
using referring to the colour codes table or a DMM.
Crank the leads of the two BC547 transistors to suit the
PCB mounting holes, using small pliers, then solder them
in place. Follow with the small and then larger electrolytic
capacitors. In both cases, the longer positive lead goes in
towards the right side of the board.
The X2 capacitor and relay go in next. Use 150nF for
the 10A relay or a 330nF for the 20A relay. You may need
to turn up your soldering iron temperature to solder the
relay as it connects to a large copper area. Then fit the
thermistor, making sure it is pushed down as far as it will
go before soldering its leads. It will also need a hot iron.
Attach the terminal barrier using two M3 x 15mm machine screws. Place flat washers under the heads and star
washers between the nuts and PCB, then tighten them
down. Check the terminal barrier is parallel to the edge
of the PCB and then solder its pins, again with a hot iron.
Housing
As already noted, the SoftStarter PCB can be installed in
either a UB3 jiffy box in-line with a standard 4-way 230VAC
power board or extension cord, or in a standard junction
box if the device is to be permanently wired into a circuit.
We will deal with installation in a UB3 jiffy box first.
Originally we designed the PCB to snap into the moulded
side rails of the UB3 box but the thermistor is quite tall and
interfered with the lid, so we have made the final board
narrower and it simply sits in the bottom of the case. It can
be glued in place after it has been wired up and tested, so
it can’t move and put stress on the wiring.
Start by drilling a hole centred in each end of the box,
4-5mm at first, then enlarge them to 14mm using a tapered
reamer or stepped drill bit. It’s better to make the holes
slightly too small and enlarge them later if necessary since
if they are too big, the cord-grip grommets will be loose
and you will have to get a new box and start again.
The holes can then be elongated with a file in one direction, making a 14 x 15.9mm opening (flat sides, rounded
ends), to prevent the grommets from rotating. The correct
profile is shown on page 244 of the Altronics 2011-2012
catalog (Type B).
Now cut the power board cord. We cut ours about 23cm
from the power board so that the SoftStarter unit sits close
to the board. Strip 75mm of the outer insulation, then
expose 7mm of copper from the Active and Neutral and
Earth wires. At the other (plug) end, strip 130mm of the
INPUT
NEUTRAL
WIRE
24V
MAINS
OUTPUT
LEAD
4004
INPUT
EARTH WIRE
OUTPUT
ACTIVE WIRE
+
CORD
CLAMP
GROMMET
INPUT
ACTIVE WIRE
+
MAINS
INPUT
LEAD
SILICON
CHIP
© 2012
SoftStarter
NOTE: ALL CIRCUITRY AND COMPONENTS IN THIS PROJECT MAY BE AT MAINS POTENTIAL. CONTACT COULD BE FATAL!
NYLON
CABLE TIE
OUTPUT
EARTH WIRE
OUTPUT
NEUTRAL WIRE
CORD
CLAMP
GROMMET
Fig.11: here’s how to wire it inside the UB3 Jiffy box. We placed it in line with a standard 4-way powerboard – at about
$2.50 each they’re the cheapest way to get a mains plug, cord and (four!) sockets.
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 35
outer insulation, then the inner wires the same as before.
Place one of the cables inside a cord-grip grommet, with
the narrower part towards the exposed wires and a small
amount of the outer insulation protruding beyond the grommet. If you’re lucky enough to have a grommet insertion
tool you can use that but otherwise, squeeze it together
hard with a large pair of pliers and then push it into one
of the holes in the jiffy box. This requires quite a bit of
brute force and co-ordination but if you do it right, the
grommet will go in and it won’t be possible to pull it out.
If it won’t fit, enlarge the hole slightly and try again.
Give the cords a firm tug to check they are anchored properly – you must not be able to pull them out or move them.
Now twist the exposed strands of the Active and Neutral
wires and screw them into the appropriate locations on
the terminal barrier. Refer to the wiring diagram of Fig.11.
The two Neutral wires go into the location marked “N”
and should be twisted together.
The Active wire from the power board goes to the
terminal at the opposite end (“ACTIVE OUT”) while the
Active wire from the plug goes next to that (“ACTIVE IN”).
Twist the two earth wires together tightly and attach them
to the terminal marked E. In each case, ensure that the
screw is done up tightly and that there are no exposed
or stray copper strands.
You can then place cable ties to hold the Active and
Earth wiring in place (see photo). Secure the PCB into the
bottom of the box using hot melt glue or silicone sealant
and fit the lid.
Junction box
We also designed the board to fit in an Arlec 9071 junction box (other brands such as Clipsal and HPM are very
similar). The PCB’s four mounting holes line up with those
in the base of the junction box and the rounded corners
leave enough room to access the other mounting holes, so
you can screw it to a ceiling joist or whatever.
The 230VAC mains wires can enter the box lid from
the side, using one or two of the knock-out sections.
Note that if it is to be installed in permanent wiring, the
task should be done by a licensed electrician or suitably
qualified person.
Check the wiring
Going back to the version in a UB3 Jiffy box, before powering up, it’s a good idea to do some basic tests. Measure
the resistance between the incoming and outgoing Active
wires – it should be close to 10Ω which is the cold resistance of the NTC thermistor. If it is much lower than this,
you may have a short circuit somewhere.
Also check the resistance between each Active line and
the Neutral line. The reading should be around 15MΩ.
Again, if it is low, check carefully for shorts.
Finally, check for continuity (ie, 0Ω) between the Earths
of the in-going and out-going power cord. Then apply
power (it isn’t necessary to attach a load). After about
two seconds you should hear the click as the relay turns
on. Remove power and the relay will click again within
a second or so, as it releases.
Assuming all is well, repeat the test with a load and this
should confirm that it is working properly. For best results,
once you have switched off power to the SoftStarter, wait
sc
at least 30 seconds before turning it back on.
36 Silicon Chip
Why is the 50Hz AC
E
veryone knows that the 50Hz AC mains waveform
is a sinewave, right?
Well, in theory it is a sinewave but in practice
it is distorted because the peaks have been clipped off.
For years now our scope screen grabs have shown this
but we have not dwelled on the reasons why.
Recently though, we have had emails from readers
who have sent photos of their scope screens showing
the classic flat-topping of the mains waveform. And they
want to know why this is happening.
You can blame this gross distortion of the mains
waveform on two factors: gas discharge lighting and
switch-mode power supplies.
Gas discharge lighting refers to all lighting systems
which use an electric current through a gas to generate
light. It applies to all high and low-pressure sodium
lamps, mercury vapour lamps and fluorescent lights.
In each of these cases, the gas discharge draws current
from the AC mains supply only when the actual voltage
across the lamp exceeds about 100V. So the current is
only drawn from the peaks of the waveform and this
inevitably loads down or clips off the peaks.
In recent years the situation has become much worse
for the electricity generators and distributors with the
widespread use of switch-mode power supplies in virtually all electronic appliances.
It more or less started with the advent of PCs and their
adoption of the more efficient switch-mode rather than
conventional mains transformer-driven power supplies
which are much heavier, bulkier and more expensive.
Switch-mode power supplies were naturally also used
in laptop supplies, then TV sets, DVD players etc. Now
they are used in virtually all electronic equipment with
the sole exception of high performance audio amplifiers
(such as our own Ultra-LD amplifier series).
Naturally all those large power-hungry Plasma TVs
(albeit these days not quite so power-hungry) and large
screen LCD TV sets use switch-mode supplies.
The reason why switch-mode power supplies are such
a problem is that they all essentially consist of a bridge
rectifier and a big capacitor, followed by the switch-mode
circuitry itself. It is the bridge rectifier and big capacitor
which is the problem because current only flows into
the capacitor at the peaks of the 50Hz mains sinewave.
All of the power drawn by the appliance is drawn
from the mains during the peaks of the waveform – not at
the other times (unless they are fitted with active power
factor correction and relatively few are).
Have a look at the simulation of Fig.2 on the second
page of the SoftStarter article. This set of curves depicts
what happens: large pulse currents which coincide with
the peaks of the mains waveform.
The simulation is for a 100Ω load which will draw a
nominal 529 watts from 230VAC mains. But the current
drawn from the mains is not a nice sinusoidal 2.3A but
is a pulse waveform with peaks of about 15A!
No wonder the peaks of the waveform are being
clipped off.
siliconchip.com.au
mains waveform distorted?
To make the problem even worse, large appliances such
as washing machines and inverter-driven air-conditioners
also have large capacitor-input power supplies, ie, the same
as the front-end of switch-mode power supplies.
It’s not just domestic power loads which are causing the
mains distortion. It is just as bad in industry which is a big
user of gas discharge lighting.
As well, consider those large AC drives used in industry
which consist of 3-phase induction motors with variable
frequency, variable voltage drives (think of them as big
inverters). Also now widespread in industry are use singlephase and 3-phase inverter-driven welders.
Yep, they use large capacitor-input power supplies.
You can see a low-power (if 1.5kW can be called low
power!) variable speed drive circuit in our article on the
Induction Motor Speed Control described elsewhere in
this issue.
And remember those high-performance audio amplifiers
which don’t have switch-mode power supplies? They still
use a capacitor-input power supply following the large and
heavy mains transformer – so they are just as bad as switchmode power supplies in drawing large peak currents from
the peaks of the mains waveform.
Finally, let us not forget compact fluorescent lamps
(CFLs). Every one of those has a switch-mode power supply to the drive the fluorescent tube.
12V halogen down-lights are another offender; these
days they are driven by so-called “electronic” transformers
which – you guessed it – are another form of switch-mode
power supply.
And of course there are the even tinier switch-mode
plugpacks we use to charge our mobile phones, iPods,
iPads, MP3 players etc.
What a nightmare!
By comparison with all of these, the much-maligned
incandescent lamp is a relatively benign resistive load!
Distortion analysis
To demonstrate the degree of the problem, have a look
at the scope screen grab above. This shows a typical 50Hz
mains waveform (green trace) as measured in the SILICON
CHIP premises.
Not only can you see the characteristic flat-topping but
the slopes of the sinewave also show some ripples, a further
artefact of the nasty loads imposed by all gas discharge
lights and capacitor-input power supplies.
Just to make it more interesting, we decided to do an FFT
analysis of the distorted waveform. This shows harmonics
of the 50Hz waveform out to the 19th, ie, to 950Hz. These
are depicted as the purple spikes. The FFT (Fast Fourier
Transform – essentially a frequency spectrum) shows that
the harmonics are predominantly odd, eg, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th,
11th and so on, corresponding to 150Hz, 250Hz, 350Hz,
450Hz, 550Hz etc.
We also calculated harmonic distortion of the waveform
based on the FFT and the result was 2%. If that was an audio
amplifier, we would reject it. Unfortunately, the electricity
distributors and consumers cannot.
siliconchip.com.au
By LEO SIMPSON
This screen grab shows the typical flat-topping of the
50Hz AC mains waveform (green trace) caused by the
peak currents drawn by gas discharge lighting and
switch-mode power supplies. The purple spikes show
the relative amplitudes of the 50Hz fundamental and the
odd harmonics up to 550Hz. In fact, the harmonics are
significant up to at least the 19th, 950Hz.
As an aside, notice that the on-screen measurements
show that the mains waveform has an RMS value of
237.2V and a peak-to-peak value of 694V (or 347V peak).
If that flat-topping was not present and the mains
waveform was a pure sinewave, the peak-to-peak value
would only be 670.8V (335V peak). So in effect, the electricity generators are having to deliver a larger peak to
peak waveform in order that the customer gets an RMS
voltage within the normal range.
And if that flat-topping, with its higher peak power
on the waveform crests did not occur, the power losses
in the entire electricity grid would be less, by at least a
few percent.
Think about that next time you switch on any piece
of electronic equipment or flick a switch to light a room
with fluorescents, CFL or otherwise.
We should conclude with a note about “dirty power”.
This is a buzz word used by those purveyors of power
factor correction doodads which supposedly “clean up”
sc
the mains waveform. They don’t work.
Just one of the so-called
“power saver” boxes
we’ve looked at over the
years. They are supposed
to work by cleaning
up your “dirty” power
waveform. Only one
minor problem with these
devices: they don’t work!
April 2012 37
Get a million resistance values
with this . . .
6-Decade Resistance
Substitution Box
By JIM ROWE
One of the most common tasks when trying out a new circuit is finetuning the resistance values. This task is made a lot faster, easier
and more precise by this 6-decade resistance substitution box. It’s
easy to build and gives you the ability to select from thousands of
different resistor values between 10Ω and 10MΩ, just by twiddling
the switches. When you have found the optimum, just read off the
value on the switches.
Y
ES, WE KNOW about those little “resistor substitution wheel”
gadgets, which you can pick up for
around $25. Generally they offer a selection of 36 different resistor values,
covering a very wide range, usually
between 5Ω and 1MΩ. They’re OK but
you will usually find that the value
you need is not present in that limited
range of only 36 values.
Then you dive into your resistor
38 Silicon Chip
stock and hope that you can find a
value that will work. We’ve all been
there and know how frustrating it is
to find that Murphy’s Law is applicable – there are none left in the drawer
concerned. In any case, you tend to end
up with a motley collection of resistors
on the bench, all of which have to be
put back in their drawers afterwards.
That’s so boring.
Resistor substitution wheels have
another drawback which is that their
internal resistors are usually only 5%
tolerance. So even if one of the 36
nominal values turns out to be suitable
for the circuit you’re working on, you
still need to check the actual value
with your DMM before making your
final selection of the value to be used.
So what we really need is more like
an old-fashioned “decade resistance
box”, with a much larger selection
siliconchip.com.au
T1
S1
S2
0
1M
1
1M
100k
1M
100k
1M
4
100k
1M
100k
1M
100k
6
1M
7
100k
7
1M
8
100k
8
1M
SC
2012
100k
9
7
100
8
9
SIX-DECADE RESISTANCE BOX
10
100
10
8
100
1k
10k
9
6
7
8
10
100
1k
10k
8
5
6
7
10
100
1k
10k
7
4
5
6
10
100
1k
10k
6
3
4
5
10
100
1k
10k
5
10
2
3
4
10
100
1k
10k
4
5
6
3
T2
1
2
1k
10k
3
4
5
2
0
100
1
1k
10k
S6
0
1k
1
2
3
S5
0
10k
1
2
3
S4
0
100k
1
2
9
S3
0
9
10
9
ALL RESISTORS 1% METAL FILM TYPE
(OR 0.1% IF DESIRED)
Fig.1: the circuit consists of six 10-position rotary switches (S1-S6) in series with terminals T1 & T2. The associated
resistor strings allow each switch to select a unique resistance value ranging from 0-9MΩ (S1) down to 0-90Ω (S6)
of closer-tolerance resistance values.
But those old decade boxes were big,
clunky and expensive. Even the latest
models are quite expensive.
So why not build your own? We
have produced a compact 6-decade
resistance box using readily available
rotary switches and 1% metal film resistors, all mounted on a PCB to make
assembly a cinch.
A million resistance values
This unit allows you to dial up a
million resistance values between 10Ω
and 10MΩ, selectable in 10Ω increments. It uses only 54 resistors, so if
you use standard 1% metal film resistors they’ll cost you less than $3.50.
Add in the cost of a UB1 jiffy box, six
standard rotary switches and knobs, a
pair of binding post terminals and a
PCB and it is still not a large amount
– a small fraction of the cost of a comsiliconchip.com.au
mercial decade box, in fact.
For even higher accuracy, you can
use 0.1% metal film resistors instead
of the 1% types. These will bump up
the total cost to over $100 but it will
still be much less than the price of a
comparable commercial unit.
How it works
Fig.1 shows the circuit. Six 10position switches S1-S6 are wired in
series, between the two binding post
terminals T1 and T2. The resistors
are connected in daisy-chain fashion
around the six switches. Each click of
switch S1 increases the total resistance
by 1MΩ, while each click of switch S6
increments it by 10Ω.
Since all six switches are connected
in series, you can dial up any resistance between 0Ω (all switches set to
“0’) and 9.99999MΩ (all switches set
to “9’), in increments of 10Ω.
Mind you, while we said that you
can select a million different resistance values, in practice you would
not use all six switches to select each
resistance; it’s pointless. It all comes
down to the tolerance of the resistors
you are using. Even if all 54 resistors
are 0.1% tolerance, you will quickly
come to realise that if you use three
consecutive decade switches to select
a value, the 3-digit resolution of the
selected value is already equal to the
tolerance of ±0.1%.
You also need to consider that the
minimum resistance of the box with all
switches set to “0” is not exactly 0Ω.
That’s because the contact resistance
of the switches and the resistance of
the PCB tracks does introduce a small
amount of residual resistance – typically around 0.25Ω, or 250 milliohms.
In practice, this doesn’t matter much
and merely increases the error of the
April 2012 39
1M
5
1k
4
1k
100
1k
1k
6
x100
5
4
T1
100
T2
S6
8
0
7
1
2
x10
6
2
3
100
10k
10k
10k
10k
0
9
5
10
3
4
10
S5
1
100
1k
3
10
7
2
x1k
6
1k
1k
1
7
10k
X O B E C NATSISER EDA CED- 6
9
8
0
4
10
S4
10k
10
10
100
9
8
1k
12140140
100
1k
100k
2
3
10
10
2102 ©
4
x10k
5
10k
100k
1
6
2
3
0
7
10
1M
5
S3
10k
x100k
100k
100k
1
6
9
8
100k
100k
100k
1M
2
3
4
1M
S2
7
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5
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0
100
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6
1M
1
1M
1M
1M
7
9
8
0
100
100k
S1
100
9
8
Fig.2: follow this parts layout diagram to build the 6-Decade Resistance Box. Note that the switches must be installed
with their anti-rotation spigots orientated as shown. The tops of these spigots must also be removed using side cutters.
two lowest settings of S1 (10Ω and
20Ω) beyond the basic ±1% of all other
ranges: about +3% for the 10Ω setting
and +1.5% for the 20Ω setting.
We will discuss some of these points
later. For now though, this 6-decade
resistance substitution box is a very
useful electronics accessory and it is
dead-easy to build.
Construction
All of the switches and resistors are
on the PCB which mounts inside a
standard UB1 jiffy box. The complete
PCB assembly is attached to the box
lid, being held there by the mounting
nuts of the six switches.
The two binding posts are the only
components not on the PCB; they are
mounted on the lid itself, with their
rear connection spigots connecting to
the two large pads on the PCB when
the latter is attached to the lid.
The PCB is single-sided but we
strongly recommend that you use a
fibreglass PCB which has a solder
mask. This will reduce the possibility
of leakage paths developing in the future which could reduce the accuracy
on the top resistance range.
The component overlay is shown in
Fig.2. Fit the resistors first. There are
only six different values: 10Ω, 100Ω,
1kΩ, 10kΩ, 100kΩ and 1MΩ, with
nine of each, making 54 in total. Each
value is clustered around its respective switch. Don’t mix up the values.
Before fitting the rotary switches,
cut the spindle of each switch to about
10mm long or just enough to suit the
control knobs you are using. Make sure
you remove any burrs from the top end
of the spindles with a file, so that their
knobs will slip on easily later.
All six switches are mounted on
the board with the orientation shown
in Fig.2. As you can see, the moulded
locating spigot on the front of each
Table 1: Element14 0.1% Resistors
1083036
1751317
1751444
1751550
1751658
1751718
10Ω metal film resistor
100Ω metal film resistor
1kΩ metal film resistor
10kΩ metal film resistor
100kΩ metal film resistor
1MΩ metal film resistor
40 Silicon Chip
0.1% 0.25W
0.1% 0.25W
0.1% 0.25W
0.1% 0.25W
0.1% 0.25W
0.1% 0.25W
$18.60 (2 packs)
$15.00 (2 packs)
$15.00 (2 packs)
$15.00 (2 packs)
$14.20 (2 packs)
$16.50 (2 packs)
switch body is at “1:30”, while each
switch’s rotor connection pin (not visible in Fig.2 or Fig.3) is in the “3:00”
position as viewed from the top.
Once all six switches have been
fitted to the board and soldered in,
it’s a good idea to make sure that they
are all set for a span of 10 positions.
To do this, turn the switch spindle
fully anticlockwise and then remove
its mounting nut, star lockwasher
and “stop washer’. Then replace the
stop washer with its stop pin passing
down through the hole between the
numbers “10” and “11” moulded into
the switch body.
Replace the lockwasher and mounting nut. Then try turning the switch
spindle clockwise by hand and you
should find that it can be moved
through a total of 10 positions (0-9
inclusive).
You will also need to use a pair of
side cutters to nip the plastic spigot off
all the switches. If this is not done, the
spigots stop the switches from mounting flush underneath the lid. Do this
for all six switches.
It is also a good idea to use an old
toothbrush and some methylated spirits to scrub off all solder flux residue
from the underside of the PCB. This
will remove any leakage paths which
will otherwise reduce the accuracy of
the values selected when you are using
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 UB1 jiffy box, 158 x 95 x 53mm
1 PCB, code 04104121, 146 x
87mm
1 dress front panel (both PCB
and panel available from
SILICON CHIP for $20 each +
$10 P&P)
6 single pole rotary switches
(S1-S6)
6 19mm diameter control knobs,
grub-screw fixing
2 black binding posts
4 adhesive fixing rubber feet
Resistors (0.25W, 1% or 0.1%
metal film)
9 1MΩ
9 1kΩ
9 100kΩ
9 100Ω
9 10kΩ
9 10Ω
This is the completed unit before it
is mounted on the lid of the case.
CONTROL
KNOB
BINDING POST
SWITCH
MOUNTING
NUT
BOX LID
STAR
WASHER
SWITCH
SHORTEN
PLASTIC
SPIGOT
BINDING POST
MOUNTING NUT
Fig.3: the PCB is
secured to the back
of the lid by resting
it on the tops of the
switches and doing
up the switch nuts.
The binding post
spigots are then
soldered to their
pads.
PCB
the Megohm range switch.
The PCB assembly can now be plac
ed aside while you prepare the box.
Preparing the box lid
There are eight holes to be drilled
and reamed in the box lid. There
are six 10mm-diameter holes for the
threaded ferrules of the switches, plus
two 9mm holes for the binding posts.
You can use the front-panel artwork
as a drilling template for the lid. This
can be obtained in PDF format from
the downloads section of the SILICON
CHIP website, photocopied and stuck
to the lid.
Once the eight holes have been
drilled and reamed to size, you can
either make a dress front panel by
laminating another copy of the artwork
or you can purchase a PCB front panel
from SILICON CHIP.
After this you can fit the two bindsiliconchip.com.au
ing posts to the panel, using the nuts
and washers supplied, as shown in the
diagram of Fig.3. The lid can then be
lowered down until it’s resting on the
lockwashers for the switches. Fit the
mounting nuts to each switch ferrule
and this will hold everything together.
The rear spigots of the binding posts
can then be soldered to the matching
pads of the PCB.
That done, place the lid/PCB assembly into the box itself and fit the four
small self-tapping screws supplied,
then push in the small rubber bungs to
cover each screw head, Finally, fit the
control knobs to each switch spindle.
curate. These higher-precision resistors are available and are physically
very similar to the standard 1% type
– so there is no problem making this
change.
But be warned that there is a significant extra cost involved – the 0.1%
resistors will cost you around $1.60
each, compared with the six cents or
so for 1% resistors. A set of 60 of these
resistors will cost around $95, bringing the total cost of your decade box
to around $140.
However, we think that the extra
cost is well worth it. It is very satisfying to dial up a resistance value with
two or three switches and then confirm
that it’s smack on the value (or very
close to it) with your DMM. It means
you can dial in preferred value resistors to a prototype circuit and know
that you will get very similar results
when you install the same physical
resistor.
Sourcing 0.1% resistors
The 0.1% resistors available from
Element 14 (formerly Farnell Components) come in packs of five; you need
to buy two packs of each value. Table
1 lists the values. The first number is
the Element14 stock number, followed
by the description and the cost.
Higher precision?
Power rating
Earlier in this article, we mentioned
that 0.1% tolerance metal-film resistors can be substituted for the standard
1% tolerance types, if you want your
decade box to be significantly more ac-
Finally, note that the power dissipation must not exceed more than 0.25W
for the resistance value selected. This
can be calculated using the formula
SC
P = V2/R or P = I2R.
April 2012 41
MikroElektronika
EasyPIC v7
Review by NICHOLAS VINEN
This PIC development board provides an easy way to program
and debug 8-bit PIC micros. It can be used with C, Pascal and
BASIC programming languages. The EasyPIC has pushbuttons,
LEDs, USB ports and various other devices on-board while a
variety of add-on modules such as LCDs, memory cards and
network interfaces can plugged in for easy prototyping.
T
HIS PRODUCT is a large, solid PCB
(265 x 220 x 2.5mm) populated
with a variety of DIP sockets and other
components including pushbuttons,
headers, a power supply and a USB
PIC programmer/debugger. Its purpose
is to make building, programming
and debugging prototype gear based
around an 8-bit PIC microcontroller
quick and as simple as possible.
It supports virtually all of the 8-bit
PIC microcontrollers including the
42 Silicon Chip
PIC10, PIC12, PIC16 and PIC18(F/
LF/K) series. It is supplied with a 40pin PIC18F45K22 but you can plug in
whichever micro you prefer; it’s just a
matter of flipping a few DIP switches
and swapping a couple of shorting
blocks to connect the micro to your
PC and begin working with it.
Besides the convenience of all the
pin headers, pre-wired buttons, LEDs
and ease of adding accessories, one of
the great advantages of the EasyPIC
is the way it ties in with MikroElektronika’s other hardware and software
products, including the included MikroICD in-circuit programmer/debugger
(supplied) and their suite of compilers
which includes C, Pascal and BASIC.
The compiler, debugger and programmer all work together in an integrated
development environment (IDE).
There are a large variety of accessory
boards available too. It has a number
of on-board peripherals, including RSsiliconchip.com.au
This photo shows some of the many accessory boards which can be plugged into the EasyPIC v7. Clockwise from top
left are a 16x2 alphanumeric LCD, MMC/SD memory card board, Ethernet interface board, stepper motor driver, realtime clock, 3-axis accelerometer and a USB-to-serial converter board. Three are connected to the EasyPIC via short
ribbon cables while the rest plug straight into one of the on-board headers.
232 and USB UARTs (universal asynchronous receiver/transmitter), an I2C
EEPROM, a 4-digit 7-segment LED
display and piezo buzzer. But there is
also provision for alphanumeric and
graphic LCDs with an optional touchscreen interface, SD memory card,
Ethernet networking, a stepper motor
driver, a real time clock and more.
These add-on boards simply plug in
and sample software is provided to
interface with them.
Some of these add-on boards plug
into the PORT headers which connect
directly to eight of the micro’s pins
(and also have power supply connections) while others plug into one of
the two “MikroBUS” headers which
provide a standardised way to connect
peripherals to a variety of micros. More
on the ports later.
Mounting holes are provided at the
corners so you can fit spacers or feet.
As you can see from the photo, everything is clearly labelled on the white
silk-screened overlay. The board is laid
out neatly so you can find the header/
button/LED you want without having
to scan around and pretty much all the
pin connections are configured using
DIP switches or jumper shunts.
All in all, it’s a well-thought-out
piece of kit and considering what you
get, the price is quite reasonable (more
on that later).
Programming and debugging
Many other development environsiliconchip.com.au
ments provide you with only the C
and assembly languages, which are
great for advanced users but present
a steep learning curve for beginners.
BASIC is the easiest to learn but most
limited while Pascal is closer to C in
terms of capability but with an easierto-learn syntax.
We suggest that anybody serious
about embedded development should
ultimately learn C (and perhaps assembly language too) but it’s a lot
easier to get your head around those
languages if you have already absorbed
programming concepts while using
BASIC or Pascal.
Software
The CD which comes with the
EasyPIC contains documentation
and the software you need to use the
on-board programmer module but it
also has demo versions of all three
compilers (or they can be downloaded
from the MikroElektronika website).
The demo versions allow you to write
programs that use up to 2KB of flash.
Beyond that, you need to purchase the
full compiler software.
The included mikroProg programmer/debugger (which is permanently
soldered to the EasyPIC PCB) can work
in conjunction with the compiler IDE,
to download new code whenever you
finish compiling it. Alternatively,
you can use the supplied stand-alone
programming software to upload your
HEX file (perhaps generated with a
different compiler or development
environment). But the debugging functions must be used in conjunction with
the development environment.
So you can write or modify your
software, send it to the PIC with a key
press and if it doesn’t work properly,
immediately jump into debugging
mode. This usually involves setting
a “breakpoint” at a particular line of
code and the micro will freeze before
it processes that particular statement.
You can then examine the state of
your variables and step through the
program line-by-line, observing how
variables and output pins change as
you do (say, using the EasyPIC’s onboard LEDs) until you figure out what’s
going wrong and fix it.
By the way, you can also buy a standalone mikroProg which is capable of
programming and debugging any PIC,
up to and including the PIC32 range,
without needing to be re-flashed.
Features
The EasyPIC board can supply
either 3.3V or 5V to the micro, set using jumpers. It can be powered from a
variety of sources such as USB, a bench
supply or an AC or DC plugpack. For
programming and debugging, you simply connect the supplied USB cable to
the board and your PC.
If you want to run the micro from a
crystal rather than its internal oscillator, a socket is provided, along with a
suitable crystal. There is also a socket
April 2012 43
Cost & Availability
The EasyPIC v7 is available from Mostyn Enterprises, NSW, Australia. The price is
$221.00, including GST & express post within Australia. Contact them on (02) 9834
1299 or visit www.mostynent.com
Mostyn can also supply some of the more popular accessory boards. These include:
Storage: Micro SD, MMC, Compact Flash, EEPROM
Communications: Serial Ethernet, Easy WiFi, WiFi Proto, Easy BlueTooth, CAN,
RS485, MAX3232, USB UART/UART2, RFID Reader
Display: Graphics LCD, TFT LCD, Alphanumeric LCD 2 x 16, COG 2 x 16
Sensors: 3-Axis Accelerometer, Light-to-Frequency 1 & 2, Motion Sensor, SHT1X
Temperature & Humidity
I/O: DAC, Easy DAC, ADC Proto, 4 x 4 Keypad, Relay 4, Port Expander, SmartMP3,
Microphone Amplifier, Audio Amplifier
Miscellaneous: Bipolar Stepper Motor, Real Time Clock
Contact Mostyn for prices on the accesory boards.
for a second crystal for those micros
with two oscillator circuits, eg, for use
as a real-time clock.
To connect up the various micro
pins to external circuitry, you use the
pin headers on the righthand side of
the PCB. These are grouped in sets
of eight pins by port letter (PORTA,
PORTB, etc) so you don’t have to refer
to the data sheet to figure out where to
connect the rest of your circuit.
There are two headers for each port,
wired in parallel. This can be useful if
you plug in one of the add-on boards
which doesn’t use all the pins in the
port; the other pins can then be accessed via the second header. They
also provide solder pads for semipermanent connections or to allow
probing with a scope or multimeter.
Each port has eight pushbuttons,
one for each pin; PORTE only has
four since that’s the most that any supported micro uses. The pushbuttons
can be set to pull the corresponding
pin either high or low; this is set for
all pushbuttons at once with a single
shorting block. There is also an 8-way,
3-state DIP switch for each port which
allows you to enable a 4.7kΩ pull-up
or pull-down resistor for each pin.
The pins of each port are also connected to a row of red LEDs (via series
current-limiting resistor) and these
can be used to view the state of each
digital output. They are enabled on a
port-by-port basis using DIP switches
– ie, all eight for a given port are on
or off. Glancing at the LEDs to see the
pin states is a lot quicker than probing
around with a multimeter!
44 Silicon Chip
Then there are a couple of small
pots which can be used to drive the
voltage level of one of several analog
input pins on the micro. You use DIP
switches to select which pins are
connected to the pot wiper(s) and can
then vary the voltage fed to the micro’s
internal analog-to-digital converter
(ADC).
In addition to the type-B USB connectors for the in-circuit programmer/
debugger and the USB UART (mentioned earlier), there is a third socket
for those micros which have on-board
USB controllers, so you can test and
debug those functions too.
There are also sockets for connecting
analog or digital temperature sensors.
Virtually all of the on-board peripherals can be connected or disconnected
from the micro pins using banks of
DIP switches. This way, you aren’t
tying up pins with peripherals you
do not need for your application. In
some cases, a peripheral can only
connect to a certain set of micro pins
while for others (eg, the UARTs), you
have many options for which pins to
connect them to.
Accessories
As mentioned earlier, a number of
add-on boards are available. Some
are designed to suit the EasyPIC v7
specifically while others are general
purpose boards which can be plugged
into the various pin headers. In fact,
these accessories can be used with
breadboards and custom PCBs too;
all you need is a pin header with the
appropriate connections to a PIC.
A list of accessories available from
the Australian distributor (Mostyn
Enterprises) is provided at the end of
this article. MikroElektronika make
over 100 different add-on boards,
most of which are compatible with
the EasyPIC v7.
We think the most useful and
popular accessories will be the LCD
modules, Ethernet interface, MMC/
SD card board, accelerometer and the
stepper motor driver.
Just how many accessory boards
you can connect to the EasyPIC v7
will vary, depending on how many
pins each of those accessories uses
and which on-board peripherals you
have enabled. You probably won’t
be able to plug in more than four, as
these will then occupy most of the
PORTA-PORTD pins. Some add-ons
plug into the port pin headers while
others connect to one of the two MikroBUS headers but either way, they
occupy some of the limited number
of microcontroller I/O pins.
Instruction manual
The instructions and software provided with the EasyPIC are top notch.
The manual is large, full of great photos and clear diagrams. It explains all
the features in detail, one at a time so
that you can easily see how the various controls and connectors are wired
up to the micro and power supply. In
fact we would say that the instructions
provided are among the best we have
ever seen.
Conclusion
This is a good board for people who
want to get into programming PICs
or for those who develop a lot of different microcontroller-based designs
and want to be able to engage in rapid
prototyping. While you don’t need
an EasyPIC board or MikroICD to use
the MikroElektronika compilers and
development environment, they go
together particularly well.
Most EasyPIC users will eventually design and build a custom board
for their project. The software can be
developed on the EasyPIC v7, where
connections can easily be rerouted and
probed (and you can even change PICs
if you find the one you chose originally
won’t do the job).
Once the software and hardware
is all working properly, the custom
board can be designed and the software
SC
transferred across.
siliconchip.com.au
ED AP
IT RIL
IO
N
Pr
ice
va
lid
un
til
23
/4
/2
01
2
LED Rotating Disco Light
A compact sound activated RGB LED party light that
helps to create a fantastic atmosphere on any special
event or occasions. It can be operated automatically to
create very bright coloured patterns in red, green and
blue with 61 LEDs. Very portable and durable.
2012
CATALOGUE
Due mid April
• Mains powered
• Size: 200(L) x 108(W) x 160(H)mm
SL-3441
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10MHz Velleman Rechargeable
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A complete portable oscilloscope with a tiny size. Aside from
standard scope features, it has nifty tools for measurement
of RMS speaker power, display hold function, and memory
storage for 2 signals. Housed in
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• 10MHz
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• Size: 114(H) x 74(W) x 29(D)mm
QC-1914
IP67 True RMS
Autoranging Cat IV DMM
Wireless Energy
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Monitor your household electricity consumption and costs in
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Control your Pay TV, DVD or Bluray player from another room up
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Send crystal clear audio from your Hi-Fi or
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• Class T amplifier design
• Power output: 15WRMS x 2 (into 4 ohms)
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Suitable for charging up to four AA or AAA Ni-H/Ni-Cd
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Extender to suit PayTV
Outdoor USB Solar Charger
The solar panel outputs 5 volts via a USB port.
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Tilt, pan and swivel for maximum viewing flexibility - perfect for corner mounting flat
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• Universal and VESA compliant
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GIFTS & GADGETS
Turntable with Speakers &
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Listen to vinyl collections directly from the unit and
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Changes colour & glows quite brightly.
• Suitable for ages 8+
• Size: 710mm long
GT-3520
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Introduce your kids to the world
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These specially designed earphones and
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• Built-in volume limiter
• Maximum output level: 85dB
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Precision 1kg electronic scale with resolution of 0.01g for
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• Auto power-off after 60 seconds
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sold separately YG-2891 $4.95
Control from your iPhone®/iTouch®/iPad® or AndroidTM Smartphone
using free app available on iTunes®. A beautifully designed helicopter
that is operated by connecting the infrared dongle to your device.
• 3 Channel
• Gyroscope for
stable flight
• Includes rechargeable
battery
• 30 min charge for
5 min flight time
• Infrared transmitter
• Robust alloy frame
• Includes USB charger
• Suitable for ages 14+
• Size: 135mm long
GT-3460 Was $79.95
NEW
• Assembly time: 3 hours
• Suitable for ages 8+
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
• Size: 203(W) x 70(L) x
NEW
151(H)mm
$2495
KJ-8956
Mini RC Helicopter with
iPhone®/Smartphone Control
Electronic Bug Maze
1495
$
Assemble this big green 6 legged bug and
watch it alter its course when it
bumps into a wall.
Small in size but won't cover up your pictures,
notes or shopping lists. These nifty fridge
magnets are strong enough to
hold up to 10 sheets of paper.
• Pack of 5
• Size: 20(H) x
11(Dia.)mm
LM-1629
Bubble Blower
with LED Lights
Generates a
fascinating
display of
bubbles that will
have kids going
wild. Simply insert
the included
100ml bottle of
liquid bubbles, click
$
95
the trigger and
watch it produce a
consistent stream of bubbles.
14
NOTE: iPhone®
not included
5995
$
SAVE $20
• LED lights
• Requires 3 x AA batteries
• Suitable for ages 5+
AB-1230
Mini High Speed RC Stunt Car
Two-Player RC Speed Bumpers
• Requires 6 x AA batteries (remote & charger)
• 30 min charge for up to 9 mins play
• Suitable for ages 6+
• Size: 105mm long
$
95
GT-3293
• Includes 2 x vehicles & 2 x wireless
remote controls
• Requires 5 x AAA batteries
each (vehicle & remote)
• Suitable for ages 10+
• Vehicles 125mm long
GT-3698
Designed for thrills and spills with two protection rings
that act as a roll cage. Supplied with a remote control
and launch pad for stunt jumps. Recharge the car
on the go with the battery powered charger pack.
19
2
To order call 1800 022 888
NEW
Bumper Bug Kit
Rare Earth Fridge Magnets
1kg Digital Bench Scale
2995
$
• LCD with auto cleaning mode
• Requires 3 x AA batteries
• Size: 195(H) x 85(W) x 160(D)mm
GH-1188
*Star Wars® is a registered trademark of LucasFilm Ltd.
• 33/45/78 RPM
• Stereo amplifier
• Automatic stop
• Mains powered
• Size: 350(L) x
310(D) x 130(H)mm
GE-4136 Was $79.00
• Requires 2 x AA
batteries
GH-1071
Sabre SFX LED Sword
Think ahead
for Mother's
Day!
High speed bumper vehicles designed for thrilling head to head
RC battles. Knock the opposing rider off its vehicle by making
contact with one of the bumper tabs located on both sides.
Buy 2
for $25
SAVE
$4.90
3995
$
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2012.
ACCESSORIES TO SUIT APPLE® DEVICES
HDMI Cable & Converter
for iPad®/iPhone®/iTouch®
HDMI AV Lead
The cable uses HDMI to stream
audio and video to the big screen
(TV, projector or even your home
theatre audio setup). Supports
movies and photo slideshows
with video resolution up to
1080p.
Speaker with Aux-in
for iPod® Shuffle
Specifically
designed for the
2nd generation
iPod® Shuffle. Its
1W+ 1W output power
produces quality sound, and its
protective cover makes it
fantastic for use at the beach.
NOTE: iPhone®
not included
NEW
6995
$
HDMI Converter
Share and play your favourite songs, videos and
photos on your TV or monitor from your
Apple® device via HDMI plug.
The USB port allows
you to sync and
charge the device for
non-stop entertainment.
• Video resolution 720p
• Compatible with iPad® 1 & 2,
iPhone® 4/S, iTouch® 4th Gen
WC-7713
49
HDMI Docking with Remote
Play slideshows or movies from your
Apple® device on a big screen.
Features HDMI video output, audio
jack and USB port. The dock includes
IR remote control, audio and USB
cable and two silicone cases to
protect your device.
• Supports up to 1080p
video resolution
• Size: 72(W) x 68(L) x
28.5(H)mm
WC-7717
Note: iPad® not included
NEW
2495
$
6495
$
USB charge/sync lead
suitable for Apple® iPhone®,
iPod® and iPad®
Durable, retractable lead. Extend it to your desired
length as required, retract it after you're done.
Perfect for charging!
$
Holds and charges your iPhone®
as you drive. Plugs directly into
the car cigarette lighter and has
charging cradles to suit both
iPhone® 3rd and 4th
generations.
• White colour
• Length: 1m
WC-7730
NOTE: iPhone® not included
Bicycle Bracket Mount for
iPhone® 3/4
Easily mount your iPhone® to
the handlebars of your bicycle
so you can take calls, navigate
with your GPS app, listen to
your favorite music, etc.
2495
NEW
Universal Bracket for Mobiles & iPhone® 3/4
This handy bracket mounts an iPhone® or other mobile phone on the
windscreen of the car where it's easily accessible.
HS-9014
Caution: The use of windscreen-mounted devices is illegal in some states, so check
with your local traffic authority before using this device.
Better, More Technical
1995
$
Horn Stand Amplifier
for iPhone® 4
NOTE: iPhone
not included
• Size: 116(L) x 60(W) x
84(D)mm
HS-9016
$
7
$ 95
Retractable Lead- to USB A Socket
NEW
4495
NEW
• Length: 1m
WC-7693
• Cable length: 1.5m
WC-7699
3995
NEW
Leads for
iPad®/iPhone®/iPod®
USB Charge/Sync Lead
Connect an Apple® device to an HDTV,
projector or the home theatre system
via the Component RCA input.
Features a USB connection to
charge the Apple® device.
See online for
compatibility.
NEW
8995
$
NOTE: iPhone® not included
AV Component Lead
$
NEW
• Size: 88(W) x 74(L) x 19(H)mm
WC-7715
iPad® 1 bracket HS-9010
iPad® 2 bracket HS-9011
NEW
12VDC Charger Cradle for
iPhone® 3/4
NOTE: iPhone not included
SAVE $14
Keep the kids entertained on
long journeys. Just mount the
bracket to the metal bars on
the car seat headrest and place
the iPad® into the cradle.
Couldn't be easier!
Extend the multimedia
capabilities of your Apple® device by
connecting it up to a large screen
TV, a projector, or even your home
theatre audio setup. The cable
uses RCA composite video to pipe
video and audio to the big screen.
See online for compatibility.
®
595
$
Headrest Mounting
Bracket for iPad®
AV Cables for
iPod®/iTouch®/ iPhone®/iPad®
AV Cable
• Power: 12VDC
• Includes a case/cradle for both
iPhone® 3 and iPhone® 4
HS-9012
Allows you to connect your audio
and video devices with your
iPod® or iPhone®. Features video
output, audio jack and USB port
designed to charge your device
while connected. The dock
NOTE: iPhone® not included
comes with a full function IR
remote control,
$
95
AV & USB power cables.
• Requires 4 x AAA batteries
• Size: 190(W) x 60(H) x 20(D)mm
XC-5189 Was $19.95
• Compatible with
iPad®1 & 2, iPhone®4/S,
iTouch® 4th Gen
• Cable length: 1.8m
WC-7711
• Cable length:
1.5m
WC-7698
Docking Stations
for iPhone®, iPod®
&/or iPad®
AV Docking
2995
$
®
This moulded silicone
horn holds your
iPhone®4 and amplifies
the sound up to 13dB.
Fantastic!
BUY 2
FOR $15
SAVE
$4.90
• Colours available
in pink, white,
green and blue
XC-5173
NEW
NOTE: iPhone
not included
2995
$
NEW
995
$
NOTE: iPhone not included
®
www.jaycar.com.au
3
EASTER CAMPING IDEAS
80 Channel UHF CB Twin Pack
12VDC Switchmode
Power Supply
Features a 3km range and an integrated
LED torch. Perfect for camping,
picnics in the bush, skiing and
hiking trips. Supplied as a pair, in
funky orange and green.
A handy solution for
powering 12V
equipment such as car
coolers and camping
fridges from a mains AC
power source. Supplied with a 1.5m
output lead with cigarette socket output.
• 12VDC 12.5A
• Input voltage: 240VAC
• Size: 200(L) x 100(W) x 65(H)mm
MP-3573
NEW
8995
$
Fold Away UHF/VHF/Marine
TV Antenna
Ideal for caravans and camping site this digitally
ready outdoor antenna that works on all frequencies
and includes a signal amplifier and a rotator motor
built into the housing which is controlled by the
included remote. Also includes 8m of TV lead with
weatherproof plug.
• Remote
requires
2 x AAA batteries
• Folds down for storage
• Antenna measures: 750(W)
(deployed) x 30(L) x 100(D)mm
LT-3143
5995
$
Brake Fluid Tester
Determines brake fluid quality by testing the
percentage of water in the brake
fluid which is indicated
by five LEDs.
NEW
• Includes 1 x AAA battery
• Size: 150mm long
QP-2291
2995
$
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
Provide bundles of power in mobile and
permanent installations. They range
in power from 180 to 2000
watts and have been
selected and tested for
their durability and
design. In addition to the
normal 240VAC outlet, all
models have a USB port for
powering all your gadgets.
12V
12V
12V
12V
12V
12V
24V
180W MI-5160
380W MI-5162
600W MI-5164
1000W MI-5170
1500W MI-5172
2000W MI-5176
2000W MI-5174
$189.00
FROM
$239.00 $
00
$349.00
$599.00
NEW
$899.00
2000W/12VDC
Inverter
$1199.00
(MI-5176)
$1199.00
189
12V Camping Shower
Plug into your car's cigarette
lighter socket, add a bucket of
warm soapy water and wash
away. Ideal for camping. Plastic
tubing, pump, showerhead,
hanging hook and carry
$1995
bag all included.
YS-2800
SAVE $5
Was $24.95
4
• 80 Channels
• Push to Talk (PTT) function
• Scan channel, call tone and
monitor functions
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries per unit
• Size: 55(W) x 110(H) x 35(D)mm
DC-1003
A pen-sized torch with super bright LEDs and
magnetic head for picking up objects. Extendable to
546mm and gooseneck at the end allows light to
be shone around corners, into cracks and crevices.
NEW
4995
80 Lumen LED Lantern
1995
$
SAVE $5
Charge via direct sunlight or
by connecting it to a power
socket in your car or
home. Recharge a range
of different types of
mobile phones, PDA's,
MP3 players or
digital cameras.
Features two USB
sockets and LED
light function.
A range of efficient solar panels with reliable
performance and robust construction using
tempered glass and aluminium frame. Size
range from 5W to 175W. Fitted with junction
box. See our website for more info.
12V 5W
12V 10W
12V 20W
12V 40W
12V 65W
12V 80W
12V 90W
12V 120W
24V 175W
ZM-9091
ZM-9093
ZM-9094
ZM-9095
ZM-9096
ZM-9097
ZM-9086
ZM-9098
ZM-9099
NEW
90W Solar
Panel
(ZM-9086)
$22.95
$42.95
$85.00
$159.00
$269.00
$289.00
$325.00
$425.00
$619.00
FROM
2295
NEW
5495
$
Stainless Steel Travel Mug
with Built-in Heater
Has a built-in, thermostatically
controlled heater and will maintain
one of four selectable preset
temperature settings ranging from
room temp to very hot. Keeps your
coffee, tea, or other beverages hot
while driving.
29
$
95
260 Lumen Rechargeable
CREE® LED Torch
Efficiency improvements in LED torches are
allowing greater light power from small packages.
This torch demonstrates that very well with the
ability to output 260 lumens of white light from a
battery that is slightly larger than a single AA. Great
for every day around the house activities and
more demanding uses
such as hiking or
caving adventures.
• Burn time: 5 hrs
• Size: 205(H) x 45(W)mm
ST-3453 Was $69.95
5995
$
SAVE $10
Emergency Caution Light
Compact and visible up to 800
metres away, this super
strength plastic caution light
contains a strong magnet for
placement on vehicles in an
emergency situation.
12V Portable
Stove
Cooks, warms or reheats
at up to 125°C. Deep lid
design, with a case made
from durable ABS plastic
and carrying handles.
To order call 1800 022 888
• Size: 165mm long to
546mm extended
• Includes 4 x LR44 batteries
ST-3463
$
• Output power: 4.5-9W, 1A max
• Size: 125(L) x 24(H) x 24(W)mm
MB-3598
• Size: 265(L) x
180(W) x 155(H)mm
YS-2808 Was $49.95
1495
$
Monocrystalline Solar Panels
Solar Mobile Charger
• Stainless Steel construction
• Ergonomic handle
GH-1301
NEW
$
Weatherproof design and features 3
different light intensities & a flashing
mode. Stands on flat surface or use the
attached metal hook to hang the lantern
anywhere.
• 6 x ultra bright white LEDs
• Requires 3 x AA batteries
• Size: 150(H) x 85(W)mm
ST-3123 Was $24.95
Super Bright LED Torch
with Magnetic Head and
Telescopic Neck
3995
$
SAVE $10
• Requires 2 x AAA batteries
• Size: 105(Dia.) x 35(H)mm
ST-3201
1995
$
BUY 2
for $30.00
SAVE
$9.90
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2012.
SECURE YOUR PROPERTY
Wireless IP Camera - 1.3MP
A great low cost, compact, remote security solution, enabling you to keep an
eye on the safety of your pets, property, or loved ones. View live camera
footage on your iPhone® or computer from anywhere there is internet access.
Free management software for PC, iPhone® and AndroidTM phones.
• Motion detect record
• Resolution: SXVGA (1280 x 960) at 30fps
• Size: 78(H) x 68(W) x 27(D)mm
QC-3830
NEW
12900
$
Due early April
Wireless 7" Colour Video Doorphone with
Recording Function
Monitor the front door of your home or office without
the need to run wires. The weatherproof outdoor
camera can be powered from the included power
supply or from 6 x AA batteries (not included). The AV
signal transmits wirelessly to the 7" colour monitor. It
also records any visitors you had while you were out,
saving the footage to an SD card (available separately).
• 2.4GHz for transmission up to 100m
• Weatherproof (IP55) camera with rain shield
QC-3621
Wireless Doorbell Alarm
with Clock & Temperature
Suitable for the elderly or hearing impaired. A
flashing blue light accompanied with 36
selectable doorbell melodies and a red
flashing light with audible alarm are activated
when the transmitter is used. The portable
LCD chimer has a range of up to 80m line of
sight. Time, date and indoor temperature are
shown on the LCD.
Professional H.264 DVR
with VGA & DVD Recorder
NEW
34900
$
Dummy Dome Camera Kit with Flashing Sign
95
NOTE: For online orders, the camera value will be issued as refund/rebate
at the time of order despatch. *List instore or on web.
SAVE $5
4 Zone Alarm System
The system utilises two-wire technology to ensure simple set-up
for DIY enthusiasts. The unit has a built-in keypad with status LED
and three modes of operation (Home, Out, Off). All sensors and
sounders are line protected so any attempt to interfere will sound
the alarm.
• Includes: control unit,
2 x PIRs, 4 x reed
switches, external
siren/strobe, cable,
240VAC Adaptor
and mount hardware
LA-5475
Was $129.00
Accessories sold separately
2 Wire PIR LA-5476 $29.95
PIR Lens - Lens Curtain LA-5473 $6.95
FROM
99900
$
8-Ch 500GB HDD QV-3044 Was $1499 Now $999 Save $500
16-Ch 1TB HDD QV-3045 Was $1999 Now $1299 Save $700
19
$
3495
$
SAVE $500
Uses the Texas Instruments Davinci
DSP and Techwell H.264 codecs, a
real-time operating system and
combines video and audio
encoding/decoding, hard disk
recording and multi-stream
BONUS
networking. These have the
SURVEILLANCE
features of both DVR and digital video server capabilities,
CAMERAS!!
Camera* of your
you can store or archive to DVD/CD, NFS/SAN or
choice
worth $200 for
external USB mass storage device. Use either
QV-3044 or $300 for
stand-alone or to build a powerful surveillance network.
QV-3045
A simple and effective visual deterrent that comes with a realistic-looking
dummy dome camera and a flashing solar-powered
80 x 80mm LCD warning sign.
• Requires 3 x AA batteries
• Size: 120(Dia.) x 70(H)mm
LA-5324 Was $24.95
NEW
• Doorbell transmitter: 45(W) x 16(H) x 90(D)mm
• Alarm Transmitter: 45(W) x 16(H) x 85(D)mm
• LCD Chimer: 115(W) x 25(H) x 175(D)mm
LA-5022
High quality IP68
rated cameras with
3-axis movement
through a wide
range. Equipped with
IR LEDs that works in
darkness with a 20
metre range. Two
models available:
Powered from one plugpack, all power and video is
run along a single integrated cable. The LCD monitor
also has an audio input to add a microphone if
required. See website for full contents.
Economical
FROM
$
00
380TVL
QC-8611
SAVE $20
Was $129.00
High Resolution 550TVL
QC-8612 Was $249.00 Now $229 Save $20
109
10900
$
SAVE $20
7" LCD Surveillance Monitor
and 2 x CMOS Camera Kit
IP68 3-Axis Cameras
• Camera resolution:
420TV Lines
• Monitor resolution:
480 x 234
• Camera size:
85(L) x 46(Dia.)mm
• Monitor size:
186(W) x 86(H) x 30(D)mm
QC-3640
$
00
Was
$199.00
$
149
SAVE 50
Steelmate Entry Level Car
Alarm with Voice Function
An affordable car alarm that features voice feedback on alarm
status and operational parameters such open doors etc.
• Includes electronic black box controller,
shock sensor, ignition cutout
relay, speaker siren, wiring
looms, bonnet pin switch,
car charger for the remote
controls, extra circuits for fuel and
ignition cutout, 2 x code hopping remote
control units with a built in torch
LA-9003 Was $99.00
Also available:
Spare remote LA-9004 $37.95
79
$
00
SAVE $20
Better, More Technical
18 LED Infrared
Spotlight for
Cameras
Use a surveillance
camera in zero Lux
conditions with the
aid of this highpowered infrared spotlight.
It has a waterproof metal case, and a
built-in Light Dependant Resistor
(LDR) to automatically switch on when
the light level is below acceptable
levels. Mounting hardware supplied.
• Size: 44.5(Dia.) x
27(D)mm
QC-3650 Was $39
3495
$
SAVE $4.05
19" LCD Security Monitor
Unlike most other LCD screens, this unit is fitted with a
hardened front bezel capable of withstanding a massive impact.
Features BNC/VGA/HDMI inputs allow for easy connection to
your DVR or media player. This security monitor acts as an
obvious visual deterrent, sits on a
desk comfortably and can be
mounted to a standard 100mm
VESA bracket.
• Resolution: 1280 x 1024
• Size: 455(W) x
$
360(H) x 60(D)mm
QM-3576
46900
Note: Special order only. Call your
nearest stores for details.
www.jaycar.com.au
5
COMPUTER ACCESSORIES
Flucard® PRO Wireless
SD Card - 8GB
Gives a whole new dimension to capturing, storing
and sharing of photos and videos wirelessly.
Transfer and share precious moments
from your digital camera to your PC,
laptop, tablets or Smartphones without
the need for cables. Great for travellers!
See website for full features and
specifications.
• 8GB storage for approx.
3000 photos (varies based
on photo size)
• Plug & Play
XC-5620
NEW
9900
$
USB Portable Speaker
802.11n PCI-E
Wireless
Network Card
A simple upgrade for PC
motherboards lacking Wi-Fi. Just
slot it in a spare PCI-E port for
300Mbps wireless connectivity.
Connects to MP3 players, Smartphones, computers
or any other audio source to play your favourite
tunes with great
sound quality.
34
$
• Complies with wireless
802.11b/g/n standards
• Compatible with Windows and Linux
YN-8326
95
An all-in-one wireless keyboard and mouse solution
perfectly suited to home or office PC applications.
Features Qwerty keyboard and an ergonomically
designed precision mouse with scroll wheel.
3-Button Optical Mouse
• Size: 435(L) x 125(W) x 18(H)mm
XC-5174
9
Android Smart
TV Media Player
TM
Powered by the
AndroidTM
operating
system this
smart TV
media
player will
add a new dimension to your plasma or old CRT. You
can access all your favourite internet sites, install and
run AndroidTM apps, watch just about any movie from
your media collection, play games, facebook, twitter,
msn, youtube etc. Just plug in a USB hard drive loaded
with movies or connect to a shared drive on your
Windows/MAC®/Linux machine (via Ethernet or Wi-Fi)
and start watching your favourite movies with ease.
See website for more info.
199
• OS: AndroidTM 2.3
$
• Video output:
HDMI/Composite video
• Size: 210(L) x 171(W) x 35(H)mm
XC-4208
00
USB 2.0 External
3.5" HDD Case
$
Connect modern computers
with a Mini DisplayPort® to a
conventional VGA display,
such as CRT, LCD monitor
or projector.
• Mini DisplayPort® 1.1a compliant
• Supports up to 1080p, 1920
$
x 1200 video resolution
WQ-7440
2995
Also available:
Mini DisplayPort® to HDMI Converter WQ-7442 $29.95
Mini DisplayPort® to Video Converter WQ-7444 $29.95
69
SAVE $10
To order call 1800 022 888
9995
$
NEW
FME to TS9
Adaptor
Mini DisplayPort® to VGA
Converter - 1.8m
• Scans single or double sided business cards
• Supports multiple languages
• Size: 120(L) x 70(W) x 20(D)mm
$
95
XC-4908 Was $79.95
6
3495
Cradle and adaptors available
separately QC-3369 $29.95
• USB 2.0
• Size: 117(W) x
183(D) x 50(H)mm
XC-4669
Also available:
USB 3.0 SATA 3.5” HDD Enclosure XC-4667 $49.95
Save your business card contacts directly to an
Outlook/Outlook Express address book. Using optical
character recognition extracts text from the business
card and categorise it in to 13 different fields.
Note: Laptop not included
• 640 x 480 resolution
• Size: 30(Dia.)mm
QC-3368
Accommodates a 3.5" SATA drive
up to 3TB in storage capacity.
Lightweight aluminium case
for increased portability.
USB Business Card Scanner
2995
The smallest IP camera we've ever seen!
With its wireless network interface, the
camera allows you to stream and
record audio video images
over your network or directly to
your Smartphone (iPhones® or
AndroidTM devices) and laptop
on the go. Powered by a CR2
battery.
2495
$
• Resolution: 1000 DPI
• Zoom-in, zoom-out;
page up, page down
• Plug and play
NEW
• Windows and MAC® compatible
$ 95
XM-5243
Also available:
5-Button Wireless Optical Mouse XM-5248 $24.95
NEW
$
Wi-Fi Remote Wireless IP Camera
2.4GHz Wireless
Keyboard & Mouse
Note:
Accessories
not included
A low profile, ergonomic 3-button
optical mouse. Simple and
easy to use.
• Rechargable
• Maximum power: 12W
• MAC® and PC compatible
• Size: 210(L) x 60(W) x
50(H)mm
XC-5197
Suitable for USB
modems and 3G capable
mobile phones with a TS9
connector. It allows you to
connect a range of antennas
that use the most common
FME connector.
AR-3317
NEW
1695
$
USB Slide/Film Scanner
Easy DIY way of digitally
archiving, sharing and
saving cherished photos.
Negative and slide
holders included.
• Scan directly to
your PC using the
provided software
• 1,800dpi
resolution
• Windows compatible
• Size: 85(W) x 165(H) x 90(D)mm
XC-4881 Was $74.00
4500
$
SAVE $29
600VA 375W Line Interactive UPS
Compact and completely self-contained, an ideal backup solution for your data or
other important equipment. It has 3 surge-protected outlets as well as 3 outlets
backed up by the UPS and RJ11 ports for protecting phone or fax lines.
• Output voltage 220VAC
• Backup time: 3 min at full load
• Cold start feature
• Software included
• Size: 268(L) x 180(W) x 80(H)mm
MP-5222 Was $109.00
8900
$
SAVE $20
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2012.
TOOLS & TEST MEASUREMENT
Pocket Sized Non-Contact
Digital Thermometer
Pro Gas Soldering Tool Kit
Featuring an easy to read LCD, this handy little unit
can go with you anywhere. Handy
for use in the kitchen or the food
service industry to ensure proper
cooking, grilling and storage
temperatures.
• Pocket Sized with LCD
• Fast Response Time
• Temp Range: -35 ~
230°C / -31 ~446F
• Battery Included
• Size: 74(L) x 40(W) x 20(D)mm
QM-7225 Was $34.95
2995
$
SAVE $5
• Case size: 210(W) x
320(H) x 52(D)mm
TD-2458 Was $19.95
• Chrome vanadium steel
TD-2017 Was $13.95
• 80-100 min operating time
• Torch dimensions: 240(L) x 28(Dia)mm
TS-1113
Buy 2 for
$10.00
SAVE
$7.90
Bull Nose Pliers
Made from hardened carbon
steel with a micro-nickel
finish. The handle has a
matt red vinyl coating.
1495
$
SAVE
5
$
Precision Screwdriver Set
Set includes 3 Flathead
and 3 Phillips
screwdrivers. Ideal for
working with computers,
TVs, DVRs, radios etc.
Supplied with a wall or
stand bracket.
A sturdy, portable, self-igniting butane powered gas
soldering iron tool kit. Produces a 1300°C
adjustable flame for low end brazing, tin/plastic
melting, automotive repair work, welding and of
course heat shrinking. Supplied with 3
interchangeable metal tips, plastic carry case,
cleaning sponge and deflector.
Spare tips & butane gas available separately.
See in-store or online for more details.
188pc Rotary Tool
Accessories Pack
This kit will service every rotary tool
bit you'll ever need. Includes sanding,
grinding, cutting and polishing
attachments and everything is
housed in a case so you can see
exactly where all the bits belong.
See website for full list of contents.
6995
$
• TUV and GS approved
• 120mm / 4.5" long
TH-1889
895
$
SAVE $4
IP67 True RMS Autoranging
CatIV DMM with Wireless USB
A quality true RMS multimeter with a wireless USB computer
interface and includes logging software which allows
computer based live data whilst keeping your computer
completely isolated and protected. Double
moulded housing and IP67 rated.
• Non-contact voltage indicator, data hold
• Backlit, auto off
• Diode test and audible continuity
• Cat IV, 600V, 4000 count
• 10A current range
• Size: 170(L) x 79(W) x 50(H)mm
QM-1571
10900
$
• 150mm
measurement range
• 245mm length (closed)
• 0.1mm resolution
• Includes 1 x SR44 battery
TD-2081 Was $14.95
Good quality tools with rubberised grips. Compact
and easy to store, comes in a carry case
and perfect for doing repairs at home
and office.
• 23 piece in total
• Size: 210(L) x 140(W) x 50(D)mm
TD-2067 Was $19.95
Better, More Technical
SAVE $5
1495
$
SAVE 5
$
SAVE $20
Spare pencil & tips
available separately
Non-Contact Voltage
Tester/IR Thermometer
A precise non-contact AC voltage detector and IR
thermometer in one. Provides easy and safe testing
of mains voltages and heating systems in
both Celsius or Fahrenheit.
3995
$
Coax Cable Tester
Simplify your cable
and connector
testing with this
handy tool. Connect it to the F-connector and it will
give you an audible signal and a red/green go/no go
signal to tell you if there's a short or an open in
circuit on cable or connectors.
• Requires 1 x AAA battery
• 100mm long
QP-2289 Was $24.95
1995
$
SAVE $5
Flameless Gas Hot Air Blower
A handy little unit for blowing hot air without the
presence of a flame. Uses butane gas and has
Piezo ignition. Great for general heating and drying.
Set of 3 heavy duty red,
black, and green leads on a
retractable 3m reel, terminated
with insulated alligator clips.
NEW
23 Piece Pink Mini Tool Kit
995
$
Retractable
Alligator Test
Lead Set
Reel Dimensions:
152(Dia) x 20(W)mm
WT-5334
79
• Power: 48W
• Temperature range: 150 - 450°C
• Operating voltage: 24V
• Lead-free rated
• Size: 150(L) x 115(W) x 92(H)mm
TS-1564 Was $99.00
SAVE $20
Also available:
Non-Contact AC Voltage Tester with Torch
QP-2271 WAS $19.95 NOW $14.95 SAVE $5.00
The digital display is calibrated in imperial and
metric units with a corresponding scale etched
onto the caliper slide. Perfectly suited to the home
handyperson.
995
Ideal station for the advanced hobby user. It features accurate
analogue temperature adjustment, ceramic element and a
lightweight pencil that will give you hours of fatigue-free
soldering. The stand has spare tip
$
00
storage and is very sturdy.
• Detects AC voltage up
to 1000V with LED indicator
• Size: 155(L) x 24(Dia.)mm
QP-2269 Was $59.95
Budget 150mm Digital
Vernier Calipers
$
48W Temperature Controlled
Soldering Station
• Refill with butane gas (NA-1020 $5.95)
• Size: 148(L) x 35(W) x 23(D)mm
TH-1602 Was $29.95
2495
$
1995
$
SAVE $10
18 Piece Stainless Steel Mixed Bit Set
A collection of commonly used driver bits in a handy rubber edged case. All
stainless steel. Driver not included.
• Contains: Torx: T10, T15, T20, T25, T30, T40
Flat blade: 3.5, 5.5, 6.5
Philips head: 1, 2, 2, 2, 3
$1995
Hex: 4, 5, 6
$10
SAVE
• Case size: 115(L) x 50(W) x 31(D)mm
TD-2111 Was $29.95
Also available:
21 Piece Stainless Steel Micro Bit Set with Driver TD-2110 Was $29.95 Now $19.95 Save $10
www.jaycar.com.au
7
HOME THEATRE
Ultra Slim LED/LCD TV
Tilting Wall Mounts
White Active Column Speaker
Ultra thin tilting wall brackets for LED/LCD TVs
allow 15° of tilt and mount only
19mm from the wall. Heavy
duty steel construction.
Mounting hardware and
instructions included.
Each speaker has three, 4" full range drivers that
provide excellent sound reproduction. A built-in
20WRMS amplifier powers each speaker unit.
RCA left and right inputs for external audio
source connection. Mains IEC leads
are also included.
• Voltage: 240VAC
• Size: 532(H) x
113(D) x 131(W)mm
CS-2439
• Load capacity up to 25kg
• VESA standard complaint
For 23" - 55" LCD/LED TV Sets
CW-2836 $39.95
For 40" - 65" LCD/LED TV Sets
CW-2838 $49.95
FROM
3995
$
NEW
Take the stress out of installing
your digital TV antenna. Connect
the DVB-T meter then adjust the
angle of your antenna until the
LED indicator shows you've hit
the right spot. Adapters included.
• Requires 1 x 9V battery
LT-3332 Was $39.95
2995
$
SAVE $10
UHF TV Antennas
Come in and see our range of digital ready
antennas for all sorts of locations and applications.
Here are just a couple of our top sellers:
43 Element UHF TV Antenna
Suitable for medium
signal reception areas.
• Gain - 13dB
• Channels - 21 to 69
• Bands - 4 & 5
• Overall Length 1234mm
LT-3181 Was $44.95
Note: TV not included
Sold as a pair
Digital Set-Top Boxes
Economy Standard Definition Set Top Box
• Composite video and audio
left and right outputs
• Remote control included
• Size: 120(W) x
35(H) x 100(D)mm
XC-4914 Was $29.95
$1995
Standard Definition Set Top Box
SAVE $10
with Recording Output
• USB port for AV
recording
• Composite AV and
S-video plus digital
audio and analogue
left and right audio
outputs.
• Remote control included
• Size: 189(W) x 40(H) x
$2495
117(D)mm
SAVE $15
XC-4912 Was $39.95
Class-T Digital Audio
Amplifier Module
3495
$
SAVE $10
Ideal for any audio enthusiast that enjoys building
and modifying speaker systems. The
pre-assembled PCB is tiny which
allows you to
incorporate it
into a wide variety
of speaker systems.
91 Element UHF TV Antenna
Huge antenna suitable
for deep fringe signal
reception.
• Gain - 15 - 19dB
• Channels - 21 to 69
• Bands - 4 & 5
• Overall Length
2214mm
LT-3182 Was $89.95
29900
$
Convert your old TV to digital so you can enjoy more
channels (HD model), extra features and clearer
reception. Mains powered.
Digital TV Signal
Strength Meter
• Regulated 12VDC
2000mA required
• Size: 68(L) x 32(W)mm
AA-0228
7495
$
SAVE $15
Boosts
sound from
your flat TV
screen
Easily share audio and
video signals wirelessly
from your cable TV or
Blu-ray player. The
powerful 5.8GHz
transmitter and receiver
provide excellent picture
and audio quality without
interruption.
• Supports either PAL or NTSC
• Size: 105(W) x
150(D) x 38(H)mm
AR-1840 Was $129.00
Limited
Stock
9900
$
SAVE $30
Additional receiver available separately
AR-1841 Was $79.00 Now $69.00 Save $10
Digital Audio Delay Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine December 2011
Corrects sound and picture
synchronisation ("lip sync")
between your modern TV
and home theatre system.
Features an adjustable
delay from 20 to 1500ms in
10ms steps, and handles Dolby
Digital AC3, DTS and linear PCM
$
95
audio with sampling rate of up to
48kHz. Connections include digital
S/PDIF and optical Toslink connections, and digital
processing means there is no audio degradation. Kit includes
PCB with overlay and pre-soldered SMD IC, enclosure with
machined panels, and electronic components.
99
• 9-12VDC power supply required - use MP-3146
• Universal IR remote required - use AR-1729
• PCB: 103 x 118mm
KC-5506
NEW
29
$
Watch Cable TV All Over
The House
95
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE - Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
The Ultimate Home Entertainment Experience
With warm autumn weather still around and less rain than
we had during summer(!), there is no better time to embrace
the alfresco lifestyle and revamp your outdoor entertaining
space. Why not be the envy of all your friends and invest in
an open-air cinema for the home by Smart Digital?
HandiTheatre is the only self-contained inflatable movie
screen in Australia that allows you to enjoy the full cinematic, gaming and Blu-ray experience in your own backyard.
It is the perfect excuse to pull out the beanbags and plan a
girls’ night in with the latest romantic comedy and a few
buckets of popcorn – or a lads-only sports session.
With the sound and image quality of the high definition
HandiTheatre being second-to-none, Blu-ray DVD’s and
games look incredible on screen and being completely portable you can take it anywhere – whether it be on holiday or
just around to a friend’s place – and what’s more, the screen
doesn’t require constant inflation so once set up you can
sit back, relax and enjoy your movie night under the stars.
The HandiTheatre screen is available is two sizes (measured diagonally) – 3 metres for $3,998 and 2.5 metres for
$3,498 and offers Blu-ray player, plug-in for games consoles
(Playstation and Xbox), live TV function, screen, blower,
speakers and capabilities for accessories such as video
Hey, Charger!
If you’re away from a
power source with an iPad,
iPhone or iPod (or most
other phones) you’ll know
how frustrating it is when
you run out of battery
Avcomm have come
up with this nifty solar
charger pack which can
keep your phone (or other
battery device) topped
up simply by aiming it at
the Sun.
The 250 x 150mm “Solar Collector” features
a 2W solar panel which
gives a stable 5V, 500mA
output – so anything
suit a variety of phones and has
which normally charges (or can
a back bag which can also hold
charge) from a USB port can be
your phone, iPad, etc.
charged from this. They claim a
It retails for $32.95 (Cat no.
one hour Sun charge will give
Q3060).
you 1-2 hours “talk time” on
your mobile.
A four-LED disp- Contact:
lay tells you how the Av-Comm Pty Ltd
24/9 Powells Road, Brookvale NSW 2100
charging is going.
It comes with a Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
variety of plugs to Website: www.avcomm.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
cameras and PC.
HandiTheatre will revolutionise your entertaining, so
make the most of the beautiful weather and create an
outdoor experience
your guests will
Contact:
never forget!
HandiTheatre can Smart Digital Australia Pty Ltd
be purchased online Unit 8, 52 Corporate Blvd Bayswater Vic 3153
at www.smartdigi- Tel: (03) 9729 6300 Fax: (03) 9729 6622
Website: www.smartdigital.com.au
tal.com.au
“Stunning” Turntable
The new Rega RP6 Turntable has
arrived with sound, engineering and
finish which can only be described
as stunning.
Available in eight high gloss
finishes, the RP6 comes with the loaded flywheel platter, all
latest RB303 tonearm, dedicated out- for just $1,799 RRP.
board power supply
with electronic speed Contact:
change, double brace Synergy Audio Visual
plinth technology for 107 Northern Rd, Heidelberg Heights, Vic 3081
extra rigidity and a Tel: (03) 9459 7474 Fax: (03) 9459 4343
16mm glass mass- Website: www.synergyaudio.com
WiFi SD Card – without the o’seas hassle!
Regular readers may recall the difficulties we
had in obtaining a WiFi SD card from overseas a
couple of years back. Now Jaycar Electronics have
introduced a similar card without the hassles – you
can get it at any Jaycar store or reseller.
The 8GB Flu Card Pro card is compatible with
any device with an SD host slot. Just plug it in and
its built-in software will instantly transform your
Digital Camera into a Wi-Fi device (802.11 b,g or
n), ready to transfer
pics, share them with Contact:
friends, etc over WiFi. Jaycar Electronics (all stores)
PO Box 107, Rydalmere NSW 2116
It’s a great idea!
It sells for $99 inc Order Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 8832 3188
SC
GST (Cat no XC-5620). Website: www.jaycar.com.au
April 2012 53
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
The earthquakes finally killed my TV
The Christchurch earthquakes damaged a lot
of electronic equipment, including large-screen
TVs. Mine was knocked flying off its stand on
several occasions but it kept working until
finally there was one quake too many.
I don’t want to sound like a broken
record but this story involves earthquakes. To be fair, we have had about
10,000 of the blighters and while
most countries get one good one and
a few decent aftershocks from a single
fault line, we’ve had a dozen really
scary shocks plus the aforementioned
10,000-odd aftershocks – and these are
coming from three completely different fault lines!
One wonders what we must have
done to offend the Gods so deeply.
Whatever it was, we must have had
great fun doing it!
When the first earthquake “swarm”
hit, our TV set wasn’t that old. I had
ditched our old clunker about three
years previously and while its 20-inch
CRT screen had been considered a
middle-sized set when new, it had
since become a “tiddler” in the scheme
of such things. It was a reliable, wellknown brand and the tube was still
bright and sharp, even after 12 years
of daily use. It’s currently sitting under
the bench in my workshop in perfect
working order but the same can’t be
said of its successor.
The flat-screen LCD TV that took the
CRT set’s place was an 81cm model. It
was made by a well-known computer
monitor manufacturer so it’s not the
first name you’d think of when buying
a TV. Nonetheless, it was an excellent
unit with a picture that was superior in
many respects to many better-known
models but for about two-thirds their
cost.
Our TV sits on the top of a solidtimber cabinet with the usual drawers
and cupboards underneath for old
remotes, playing cards and spaces for
other home-entertainment hardware.
54 Silicon Chip
Despite this, during the first big quake,
it ended up face down on our loungeroom floor, surrounded by CDs and
DVDs (many of which had mysteriously come out of their cases) and the
usual quake detritus of broken this and
smashed-up that.
As if the TV launching into space
wasn’t bad enough, the rest of our
gear suffered as well because all the
cables, which are about a metre long
with the usual mix of RCA and TV-type
plugs, remained steadfastly connected
to the VCR, DVD player, antenna wall
socket and the home-theatre system.
These cables usually run from the back
of the TV and connect to the various
other devices after threading through a
nicely-drilled 100mm hole in the back
of the cabinet.
Unfortunately, as the TV flew into
the room and the cable slack played
out, the VCR and DVD player were
hauled backwards and tried to escape
through that 100mm hole. As soon as
they hit the back of the cabinet, the
cables stretched and either snapped
or sheared off at the sockets, allowing
the now-untethered TV to continue
its trajectory into the centre of the
lounge room.
After getting over the initial shock
of a big quake, we took stock of the
damage. The lounge room was a war
zone and since we had no power for
the rest of that day and there were
dozens of equally scary aftershocks,
we thought it best to leave everything
where it lay – the theory being that our
stuff couldn’t fall any further or break
any more than it had already.
When things had settled down and
we had power back on, I put the TV
back in its usual spot, dug out some
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
The earthquakes finally killed
my TV
• Traffic direction system for a
ferry boat
• Shipyard plasma cutter
• Oyster-sorting machine
• Hydroponics control system
• Intermittent Commodore
engine
• Mobility scooter intermittent
*Dave Thompson, runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
replacement cables and rewired the
whole thing back together. I left the
VCR out since some of the sockets
had been damaged and we hadn’t
used it for ages anyway. Amazingly,
everything else worked and aside from
some nasty scratching on the top and
front of the TV cabinet, we were back
in business.
Bigger brackets
I spent a lot of time following that
quake making brackets and anchoring
all our bookshelves and other stuff
to the walls. However, subsequent
quakes simply ripped these brackets
out, damaging the walls and bookcases
as well. Now we have really big brackets in place and if they fail, we’ll have
bigger problems to worry about than
damaged equipment.
Unfortunately, there was no satisfactory means of anchoring the TV
and since the worst of the aftershocks
seemed to be over, I didn’t worry about
it. Then came the Boxing Day quakes
and down it came again. There were
more scratches and more sheared cables but everything still worked and
so once again I didn’t worry about
securing it – after all, how unlucky
could we be?
My optimism was sorely misplaced.
Along came the February 22nd quake
siliconchip.com.au
and it proved to be the most damaging
of all the quakes, even if the figures
didn’t confirm it. It really made a mess
but even though the TV did its usual
flight across the room, it still worked
when I plugged it all back in.
The aftershocks then came thick
and fast so we left the TV on the floor
and watched it like that for a while.
Its cabinet was by now well and truly
ruined with deep scratches and I was
getting sick and tired of buying new
cables! But we were very lucky – most
people we knew lost a lot more than
their TV!
And then came the December 23rd
quake. We’d not had a significant
quake for months (the TV had survived
the previous June quakes) and people
were breathing sighs of relief and had
begun putting the good china back on
the shelves. As before, we were out
when the quake hit and we arrived
home to the usual “TV in the middle
of the floor” scenario. However, this
time I wasn’t so lucky because when I
put it all back up and plugged it in, it
was dead. There was nothing at all; no
lights, no picture, no sound – nothing!
And just as all the stores and suppliers
were closing for Christmas!
That was it then; there was nothing
for it but to pull it to bits and try fixing
it myself.
Now I don’t do a lot of TV repairs
but I’ve certainly repaired plenty of
monitors and I’ve even been shocked
by one, so that qualified me to have a
look at least. I began by removing the
case screws, a dozen heavy “PK”-style
jobs, that hold the back on. However,
to get the back off, I also had to remove
the solid metal base and the mounting
plates. These are held on with eight
decent-sized machine screws.
Having done this, I found that the
front and back were clipped together
but not so tightly that I had to damage anything to get them apart. I used
a plastic case-prying tool to work my
way along the edge and “crack” the
case as I went. When the last clip let go,
the back easily came free, revealing the
tuner, power supply and backlighting
modules. The inside was beautifully
laid out, the cables clipped in looms
and everything well-shielded by a
thin aluminium sheet which covered
almost the entire back of the screen.
I spotted the tell-tale signs of trouble almost immediately. There were
several blackened areas on the power
supply board and I could also smell
siliconchip.com.au
the burnt electrical components. The
burnt areas looked nasty and I immediately knew that this was probably
not going to repairable, at least not
before Christmas.
The only thing I could do at that
stage was remove the power supply
board and try to determine what had
happened. Despite the evidence, I was
still hoping that the fault might be
something simple which I could fix,
although I now knew full well that this
was unlikely.
The power supply PCB was easily removed by undoing four small
machine screws. And when I lifted it
clear, I could see that two solder joints
had somehow touched the grounded
aluminium shielding underneath, the
corresponding black electrical “splats”
clearly indicating exactly where it
happened. The component leads at
these points projected less than 2mm
below the board, which means that the
board must have flexed about 8mm to
be able to touch the aluminium (it sits
on 10mm spacers).
To test this theory, I sat the 2mmthick PCB back on its spacers and
pushed as hard as I could in the middle
of it. I could barely flex it!
Considering the two burned points
were only about 30mm from one end
of the board, I found it hard to imagine how the board could possibly
have flexed that much or how the
aluminium sheet could have moved
so much. I also wondered what was so
different about the TV hitting the floor
this time around to have caused this
fault. After all, it had survived half a
dozen other trips to the floor.
Blown to smithereens
Closer inspection of the dead board
showed two sections where surface
mounted components had probably
been present. It was hard to tell, because anything that had been present
had been blown to smithereens and
the tracks under the board burned
away. Google revealed nothing as far
as images or circuits for this board, so
basically I was up the creek.
There was simply no way to fudge
my way through fixing this board.
And that’s the way it stayed. I reassembled the set and four days later
purchased another, bigger and more
up-to-date “smart” TV, which is
screwed solidly to the top of the TV
cabinet. I put in an earthquake claim
for the old one and it is still sitting
there in the workshop, dead and unlikely to ever go again.
However, I live in hope that one day
someone may bring one in or I’ll hear
of one with a cracked screen and a
good power supply board. Until then,
we’ll make do with the new one and
April 2012 55
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
the old one can continue to gather dust;
I can’t bear to throw it out.
Technologically challenged
There’s a trend for engineers and
technicians from all walks of life to
have a laugh at the expense of those
we consider less technically capable
than ourselves. After all, we’ve all
sniggered after reading about the
woman who used her CD-ROM drawer
as a coffee-cup holder. And we could
barely contain our disbelief when we
heard about the guy who held a piece
of paper up to his monitor, thinking
that’s how a computer fax worked.
But don’t think that this is necessarily a modern phenomenon; 30 years
ago, we were laughing at the lady who
used the manual choke knob on her
car to hang her handbag on and we
chuckled at the guy who mounted an
extra spark plug behind the grille of his
car in order to defeat early traffic radar.
Whether these stories are urban
legend or not, the fact is that people
have always had a varied experience
with the technology of the day. It’s now
even more common for people to get
confused with the electronic gizmos
that are available today and which
have reached new levels of sophistication and complexity.
Even those of us with skills in multiple technical disciplines sometimes
have trouble finding our way around
some modern technology. Certainly,
it’s becoming increasingly difficult to
stay up with every facet of every field.
56 Silicon Chip
It’s always been true that what is
intuitive and simple to one person can
be completely befuddling to another
and technical types often make fun
of those who struggle with technology. Perhaps I’m being a little harsh
on technical people here but to be
honest, I don’t see dentists running
on-line forums specifically to make
fun of people who don’t know their
alveolus from their fraenum. Nor do
I see mortgage brokers pointing and
laughing at those of us who can’t get
their heads around revolving credit or
table loans!
So why then do some of us get
such a kick out of watching people
trip over technology? Personally, I
have always found running down the
technologically-challenged to be a bit
cheap and tawdry. Part of my own
repair company ethos is to never patronise clients or put them in a position
where they feel silly.
Of course, this is actually tougher
than it sounds, which is why a good
proportion of our staff training focuses
on just that. That doesn’t mean we
can’t have a laugh (or groan) at the
folly of grown adults. After all, you
only have to peruse sites like YouTube
or the Darwin Awards to know there
are more genuinely stupid people out
there than there should be.
Unfortunately, such people and
servicemen regularly cross paths.
Basically, I’m talking about the
things some people do because they
simply don’t know any better. While
I’m not sure about the stereotypical
Australian male, Kiwi blokes will generally have a go at repairing anything
from their dishwasher to their kid’s
braces (often to the point of destruction) before conceding they might
actually need to get a professional in
to do the job.
To be fair, “having a go” is a global
characteristic, even if typically found
among the male of the species. While
some of this behaviour could be put
down to financial necessity, a large
amount boils down to testosteronefuelled, bloody-minded stubbornness
and the refusal to accept defeat – something that can happen all too often with
technology and engineering.
The fact is, service people from all
walks of life see far too many instances
of products and hardware in far worse
shape than they should be, all because
somebody thought they’d save time
and money by doing the repair themselves (or getting their brother-in-law
to do it).
I don’t know if this happens in other
trades but I have had far too many
people call my workshop and ask me
to walk them through certain aspects
of computer repair. It’s happened so often that I eventually created a specific
phone script to deal with the situation.
Many computer repair technicians
I’ve spoken to report similar scenarios.
You really do have to wonder how anyone could be so cheeky. After all, just
imagine calling your local mechanic
and asking him to walk you through
replacing the brakes on your car. What
would any normal person expect them
to say and do?
For us, it’s always a bit of a tightrope
walk between telling the caller to go
away and wanting to help them out.
In the vast majority of cases, we are
able to turn things around and snare
the job, along with a customer who is
happy to pay for the work.
Unfortunately though, about 10% of
callers can be quite rude about the fact
we that won’t help them out over the
phone for free and give us all kinds of
grief. As I’ve said before, service work
is tough going sometimes.
A mixed bag
Now for a mixed bag of servicing stories from G. S. of Montrose, Tasmania.
He runs a small business that designs
and constructs electrical and electronic control systems for machinery,
marine and agriculture applications.
Here how he tells it . . .
My service jobs are mostly limited
to my own products. In theory, this
means that such jobs should be pretty
easy since I have such a good insight
into the equipment.
Oh yeah . . . I wish!
The first incident I’m about to relate
concerns a traffic direction system
fitted to a large ferry boat. Each traffic
lane was fitted with a large LED panel
which is controlled by a local microprocessor. This allowed the panel to
display a moving arrow indicating go
left, go right, turn left and turn right in
response to a signal sent from a central
control unit.
It was a very simple system in that
the crew simply pressed a button on
the control and an associated number
siliconchip.com.au
(1-9) was sent via a RS485 link running at a sedate 300
baud. The panels all over the ship would then display
the appropriate direction arrow to allow cars to be loaded
and unloaded; all very simple.
However, it was reported that one panel would not
display properly. When trying to show an arrow running
left to right it would start out OK but then decay into
random flashes from the LEDs about half-way across.
Conversely, when running from right to left, it would
start in mess and finish as a clean arrow.
Each display consists of an 8 x 16 (H x W) LED matrix
driven by Micrel serial in 8-bit parallel out latched drivers, so each row of LEDs had two drivers in series. These
Micrel drivers are addressed by a Motorola 68HC705C8
processor. The output enable pins for all the driver chips
are connected, to allow updates only after data shifts, and
the LEDs are fully on when selected rather than scanned.
Sliding the panel out of its housing revealed nothing
obvious. The enclosure was well-sealed, with no sign of
dampness which is the usual culprit in marine situations.
I got the panel running on the bench and it still showed
the same problem which was a plus. I then removed the
processor and plugged in the emulator and adjusted the
program so that the arrow shape crawled across the panel.
Sure enough as the second shift register group became
involved, bits of the arrow started to disappear and the
LEDs would light randomly. A couple of runs showed it
happened at the same spot in the scan, ie, when it moved
from one shift register to the next.
It was time to look at the register chips. All the soldering looked good but a closer view with a strong light and
a magnifier revealed a tiny strand between the clock and
serial data pins on one of the chips. A quick flick with a
knife cured the problem.
My next story concerns a fault in the main plasma cutter
at a shipyard. It was an early, massive, flatbed machine
with a basic control system that enabled it to cut plate in
accordance with co-ordinates that are manually entered.
The settings are shown on a large 7-segment LED display
and the complaint was that the display would not show
anything that made sense. In fact, as I quickly discovered,
the display was flashing randomly.
The control unit simply slides out of its compartment.
Unfortunately, it’s fully enclosed and there’s no way to
keep the power on with it withdrawn. Clearly, there was
little point in removing the cover at the machine so I took
it back to the workshop and dismantled it there.
It came apart quite readily and this revealed a large
array of 4000 series CMOS chips on a large PCB. The
power supply was still in the machine but I was able to
solder a couple of wires to the PCB and get it powered
up. The 7-segment displays were driven by a group of
4511 decoder drivers and when powered up I expected
to either see nothing or zeros.
Instead, what I got was random flashing zeros, similar to what was happening when it was installed in the
machine. At that point, I suspected a dry joint on the IC
that controlled the latch inputs to some of the display
ICs. A measurement on one of the update lines revealed
that the voltage was floating all over the place, so it was
randomly causing data for other parts of the display to
be mixed in.
Working my way across the board I arrived at a 4011
siliconchip.com.au
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Email: service<at>switchmode.com.au Website: www.switchmode.com.au
April 2012 57
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
quad 2-input NAND IC. There was no
sign of a bad joint but the output from
this chip to the display ICs was floating, despite the input being solid. A
quick trip to the local Jaycar store for
a replacement and all was well.
Moving on, an oyster-sorting machine that was on field test was
returned with the complaint that it
would not recognise oysters over 99
grams.
This machine has two separate
channels. Oysters enter at one end,
having been cleaned and separated
by preceding equipment. They are
then scanned by a photocell arrangement which measures shell length and
are then passed to a load cell which
measures their weight. After some
on-the-fly maths, a decision is made
on the “grade” of oyster, based on the
two figures obtained, and the animal is
discharged out an appropriate chute.
The load cell on the offending channel was clean and moved freely but
static tests revealed that it would not
give proper readings above 99 grams.
And as it was only happening on one
channel, comparison tests were easy.
The load circuit consisted of the cell
itself and this fed an off-the-shelf amplifier, followed by an A/D converter
with a multiplexed BCD output.
This in turn is controlled by a
68HC05 microprocessor that does all
the housekeeping and the calculations. I swapped the converter boards
between channels and found that the
problem moved with the board.
The faulty board was a bit dirty due
to the client’s habit of leaving the enclosure door open. A close look with
a magnifier revealed what looked like
metal flakes on some of the digit address pins. A decent wash cured the
problem and I cleaned the other boards
while I was at it. My conclusion is that
one of the address lines was shorted by
a speck of rubbish on the PCB.
My next story involves a hydroponics control system which I had built
and installed. The set-up consisted of
several stacked trays interleaved with
artificial light and was used for growing spinach and other leaf crops. A
large tank held water and nutrients and
was pumped in a loop for circulation,
with the conductivity and pH measured by probes in the circulation line.
The whole arrangement was mounted in a shipping container which was
powered via a 20-metre cable plugged
into a service pole. This all worked
nicely for several months until recently when the client complained
that the pH reading kept running to
extreme alkaline when the circulation
pump was run. The tank pH measured
6.4 but the circulated water was going
over 8 when being pumped.
A couple of enquiries on the net
revealed that such problems can be
caused by a potential difference between mains Neutral and Earth. The
probe supplier agreed with the diagnosis so I had a local electrician take
some measurements and he discovered a potential difference of almost
1V between these two lines.
So, where did this suddenly come
from? The electrician confirmed that
the MEN (Multiple Earth Neutral) was
intact and the supply phases were
reasonably balanced, so this pointed
to the pump. The client then stated
that he had changed the pump during
an upgrade and it was a magneticallycoupled sealed-case type, as was the
previous unit.
It then occurred to us that during
the upgrade, the mains lighting had
also been replaced by low-voltage DC
lighting powered from three rather
healthy 3kW 48V DC supplies. These
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so, why not send those stories in to us? In doesn’t
matter what the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the electronics
or electrical industries, to computers or even to car electronics.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
58 Silicon Chip
contained suppression components
between Active, Neutral and Earth, so
perhaps their combined natural leakage current was causing the problem?
I rounded up a Burr-Brown(TI)
ISO124 isolation amplifier and a 24V
to isolated ±12V DC converter and
built it up on a piece of stripboard.
Once on site, I removed the pH amplifier board and cut the power, ground
and output tracks to the input amplifier from the probe. Next, using short
wires, I soldered connections from
these tracks to the stripboard-mounted
power supply and amplifier, thus inserting the isolation amplifier into the
pH amplifier circuit and breaking the
ground loop that was probably causing
the problems.
And that solved the problem. However, it was a bit rough and ready so
I subsequently modified the pH amplifier PCB to include the isolation
amplifier and replaced it in due course.
Intermittent Commodore
Intermittent faults in cars can be
both frustrating and difficult to track
down as G. C. of Toormina discovered
recently . . .
My daughter and son-in-law have a
1995 VS Commodore Acclaim which
has been a very reliable vehicle. However, a few months ago, the engine
began cutting out, usually at the most
inconvenient times such as in peakhour traffic.
At the first opportunity, my son-inlaw and I decided to see if we could
track the problem down. We replaced
the fuel filter, checked all the hoses
and wiring for loose connections, and
checked the spark plugs and their
leads. We also checked for steady
power at the fuel injectors.
Despite going over it carefully, nothing could be found and the car was
siliconchip.com.au
Intermittent mobility scooter
J. B. of Cookernup, WA recently encountered some frustrating intermittent faults in
a mobility scooter. Here’s how they were
solved but first he describes a hair-raising
experience . . .
One of my scarier repair successes was
with a hairdryer. This one was a simple affair
that hung off the shoulder with a hood to
cover the hair and with just heat-setting,
fan-speed and on/off controls. Such a
simple arrangement should be trouble-free
you would think but its owner complained
that, on any setting, it either ran at full heat
or blew cold air.
When I opened the handset control and
traced the wiring, it became obvious that it
must have been assembled on a Monday,
as the Active and Neutral wires were transposed and, what’s more, the bi-metallic
switch had been bypassed. Just re-wiring
it solved the problem but I hate to think
what could have happened.
My most recent success was with a
mobility scooter that we acquired some
years ago to allow my wife to get around
the shops independently.
Not long after purchase, it developed the
curious habit of suddenly stopping for no
apparent reason. Then, after switching it off
and on again, it would behave as normal.
Even when tested under warranty and fully
serviced this fault did not disappear, so we
put up with it for several years.
Then, at a local expo I happened to get
into a discussion about the fault with the
owner of a disability shop who explained
that the little lever that you use for forward/
reverse control was the culprit. And so, the
next time I was in town, I had a talk with
our local agent and he concurred with the
diagnosis. As luck would have it, he had
just replaced one of these control levers
and he gave me the old one.
The item in question is simply a 5kΩ
potentiometer with a spring-loaded lever
(instead of a knob), the whole lot mounted
on a metal plate. The spring, which attaches
to the plate, holds the lever (and thus the
pot) in centre position. It’s manufactured
in Mexico and the assembly retails for
over $100.
The solder terminals on the unit were
perfect (according to my multimeter), so
I next took a close look at the connector
plug. The wiring to this connector was
very fine and it used crimped connectors
inside the housing, so I decided to solder
these to eliminate any contact problems.
This instantly reduced the frequency of the
problem but it still reappeared at unusual
intervals, so I cut out the connector and
directly linked the wires.
Doing this almost eliminated the fault
but after a few more hiccups, I lifted the
main body plate/footrest from the frame
and found another connector where it connected to the main control unit. I bypassed
that as well and placed the wiring properly
in the channel, as at least one lead was
being pinched which could account for
the fact that sometimes wriggling the machine would bring it back to life. However,
the main fault seems to have been in the
crimped connectors.
Further checks revealed yet another
connector near the motor itself. The wiring
from this ran to an electromagnet mounted
at the back of the motor and which is part
of the braking system. The brake itself
consists of an electromagnet and a spring
that pushes a steel plate onto a fibre plate
that is keyed onto the motor shaft. When
the electromagnet is energised, the motor can run as the spring-loaded plate is
pulled back.
I bypassed this connector as well. The
scootor is now trouble-free – provided
we remember to charge the battery on a
regular basis.
behaving itself. And that meant we
could only hope that the work we had
done had somehow fixed the problem.
Unfortunately, Murphy was quickly
up his tricks because as soon as I was
out of town, the car cut out again and
left my daughter stranded by the side
of the road. She called the NRMA and
they couldn’t get it started, so they
towed it to a repairer.
Because it was late afternoon, the
car had to be left there overnight. The
next afternoon, the mechanic called
and said that the car was ready to be
picked up. The diagnosis was a faulty
crank-angle sensor. “It’s fairly common
on this model mate”, was the comment
as the mechanic extracted his tidy
some of money.
Well, all was good for about three
weeks and then the car suddenly
stopped again. As before, the NRMA
turned up and couldn’t get it started, so
it went back the mechanic for another
overnight stay.
This time, the diagnosis was a faulty
DFI module and I wondered if this
might have been the real problem the
first time. Anyway, we parted with
another tidy sum of cash only to have
the car die again just two days later.
And so back it went to the mechanic
who again diagnosed a faulty crankangle sensor, despite the fact that it had
only been replaced a month earlier.
It was replaced free of charge but of
course, it wasn’t the problem and the
car died again a few days later.
As luck would have it, I now had a
few days off work and so I decided to
have another go at it. I have a manual
for the vehicle, so I checked the wiring
diagrams and decided to solder a LED
and a series 560Ω resistor between
the +12V terminal of the DFI unit
and ground. I also connected a LED
to monitor the +12V line to the fuel
injectors.
I then told my daughter and son-inlaw to check whether these LEDs were
on when the car refused start. If they
were off, then at least we would know
where to start looking.
As luck would have it, I was in the
car when it died again a few days later.
I couldn’t wait to pop the bonnet to
check the LEDs but they were both
lit, indicating that the supply rails
to the fuel injectors and DFI module
were both OK. And that eliminated
the associated relays, fuses and wiring
associated with those systems.
I then asked my son-in-law to try
to start the car and this time it started
but was running a bit rough. The LEDs
remained steadily lit so I tried wriggling various connections. And when
I wriggled the plug that attaches to
the DFI module, the motor cut out.
We then tried starting the motor again
while wriggling this connection. The
motor could be made to stop and start
at will. Gotcha!
Having located the fault, the cure
was relatively simple. We went to the
wreckers and cut the DFI plug and
about 300mm of the wiring loom from
another VS Commodore. We then cut
the old DFI plug off our Commodore,
stagger-cut the wires on the new and
old looms and soldered the wires together, heatshrinking each one as we
progressed
Finally, I wrapped all the heatshrinked joins in black insulation tape.
And that was it – the car is now
SC
completely reliable again.
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 59
Ultra-LD Mk.3 135W/ch
stereo amplifier
Com p le t in g t h e w ir in g & m a k in g a d j us t m en t s
Last month, we introduced our new Ultra-LD Mk.3 135W Stereo
Amplifier and described the initial assembly details. In Pt.2 this
month, we complete the assembly and describe the adjustment
procedure for the power amplifier modules & the remote control.
W
E LEFT OFF last month with all
the modules mounted in position, except for the two Ultra-LD Mk.3
power amplifier modules. We also
described the transformer mounting.
Once the transformer is in place,
remove the adjacent side panel of the
case by undoing the five self-tapping
screws. Be careful during this procedure – the screws will initially be tight
and one slip with the screwdriver is
60 Silicon Chip
all it takes the leave an unsightly mark
on the panel. Placing several layers of
masking tape around the screw heads
while you undo them is a worthwhile
insurance policy here.
The next step is to run the 230VAC
wiring. This wiring must be installed
in a professional manner with all
connections securely crimped and
insulated.
Removing the side panel gives you
good access to the chassis to install the
mains wiring. This involves crimping
a number of fully-insulated spade
connectors onto various leads and
it’s important to use a ratchet-driven
crimping tool for this job (see panel last
month). After crimping, you must also
check that each connection is secure
and that all wire strands are inside the
connector – something that’s particularly important with mains wiring.
siliconchip.com.au
MAINS EARTH LEAD
Obtaining A Shielded Power Transformer
Last month, we indicated that the power transformer supplied with kits
would come with an integral flux band. However, it transpires that
Altronics will be supplying a stock transformer which doesn’t have
this flux band, although this will still give quite good performance. For
optimum signal-to-noise ratio, you can either fit this transformer with
a copper strap or you can purchase a shielded transformer from
either Harbuch Electronics or from Dyne Industries (see panel
later in this article for details).
Pt.2: By GREG SWAIN
Begin by routing the blue and brown
primary leads around the rear of the
transformer and securing them with
several cable ties (see photos & Fig.1 in
Pt.1). The blue primary lead can then
be trimmed to length (about 225mm),
stripped of 5mm of insulation and
terminated in a fully-insulated spade
connector.
If you want to be doubly-fussy here,
it’s a good idea to cut a 17mm length
of 5mm-diameter heatshrink and slip
it over the blue lead before crimping
on the connector. The heatshrink can
then be slid over the rear section of
the connector and shrunk down using
a hot-air gun (but take it easy with the
heat; gently does it).
This connector can now by plugged
into the Neutral terminal on the back
of the IEC connector. That done, fit another cable tie to secure both primary
leads close to the end of the heatshrink.
Next, cut a 450mm length of brown
32/0.20mm mains-rated cable and
terminate one end in another fullyinsulated spade connector (and again
add the heatshrink). Plug this into the
siliconchip.com.au
Active terminal on the IEC connector, then feed both this lead and the
brown transformer primary lead down
a 360mm-length of 5mm-diameter
heatshrink.
That done, adjust the heatshrink so
that it is about 20mm from the end of
the fully-insulated spade connector
and apply some gentle heat from a
hot-air gun to shrink it down. Push
the leads and the heatshrink down flat
against the chassis as you do this, so
that the leads sit side by side.
This not only keeps the leads together but also double-insulates them
where they run around the mains
transformer and under the righthand
power amplifier module, to keep everything nice and safe.
The switch end of this cable should
now be pushed through a rubber insulation boot (eg, Altronics H1472),
after which the individual leads can
be fitted with fully-insulated spade
connectors. Once again, slip a 17mm
length of 5mm heatshrink over each
lead before crimping on the connector,
then push the heatshrink into position
over the end of the connector and
shrink it down.
That done, secure the mains wiring
to the floor of the chassis using four
5mm P-clamps but leave the P-clamp
nearest to the power switch out for
the time being. Orientate the P-clamps
that are fitted at this stage as shown
in Fig.1 (and the photo on page 63)
INSULATED CRIMP EYLET
LOCKING NUT
STAR LOCKWASHERS
M4 x 10mm SCREW
& NUT
BASE PLATE
OF CASE
NB: CLEAN PAINT AWAY FROM MOUNTING HOLE
Fig.6: the Earth lead from the IEC
connector is secured to the case
via an insulated crimp eyelet as
shown here. The top nut serves as
a lock-nut, so that the assembly
cannot come loose. Make sure
that the crimp eyelet makes good
electrical contact with the case.
and secure them using M4 x 10mm
machine screws, flat washers and nuts.
Important: as with the audio input
cable, you must also install two M4
flat washers under the head of the
screw that secures the P-clamp under
the power amplifier module. This
avoids the possibility of shorting the
end of this screw to the underside of
the amplifier.
Finally, you can complete the mains
wiring by installing the main green/
yellow Earth lead prepared earlier.
This plugs into the Earth terminal of
the IEC connector, while the other
(eyelet) end is bolted to the main chassis earth point using an M4 x 10mm
machine screw, two star washers and
two nuts – see Fig.6 above.
The second nut on top locks the
assembly into position and ensures
that the assembly cannot possibly
come loose.
Secondary wiring
Now for the low-voltage secondary
wiring. We’ll start with the two 40V
AC windings which involves the four
leads (orange, black, white & red on the
prototype) closest to the primary leads.
The first step is to tie the two adja-
WARNING! HIGH VOLTAGE
High AC and DC voltages are present in this circuit. In particular, mains
voltages (230V AC) are present on the IEC socket and the primary side of
the transformer (including the wiring to the power switch). In addition, the
transformer secondary provides an 80V AC output (2 x 40V AC centre-tapped)
and the amplifier power supply rails total 114V DC. Do not touch any part
of the amplifier circuitry when power is applied otherwise you could
get a severe electric shock.
The two LEDs on the power supply board indicate when power is present. If
they are lit, the power supply and amplifier boards are potentially dangerous.
April 2012 61
Parts List: Ultra-LD Mk.3 Stereo Amplifier
1 custom pre-punched steel case
with screened front & rear
panels
1 32mm black aluminium knob with
grub screw (Altronics H 6236)
1 300VA toroidal transformer with
two 40VAC windings and two
15VAC 7.5A windings (brown
primary lead must be 620mm
long to reach the mains switch;
blue primary lead must be
240mm long to reach IEC
socket)
1 35A 400V chassis-mount bridge
rectifier (Altronics Z 0091)
1 SPST 10A 250VAC rocker switch
(Altronics S 3224)
1 chassis-mount male IEC socket
with fuseholder (Altronics P
8324)
2 M205 3.15A 230VAC slow-blow
fuses (one spare) (Altronics S
5657)
1 230VAC 3-pin IEC mains power
lead
2 2-way loudspeaker terminal panels (Altronics P 2016)
2 6.3mm double-ended chassismount spade lugs (Altronics H
2261)
1 eyelet (ring) connector, 4mm
inside diameter (Altronics H
2036A)
19 6.3mm female fully-insulated
spade connectors (Altronics H
2001A)
1 piggyback crimp connector (Altronics H 2016A)
4 red right-angle RCA plugs (Altronics P 0169)
4 black right-angle RCA plugs
(Altronics P 0170)
cent centre leads together using a couple of cable ties. These leads are then
trimmed to length (don’t cut them too
short), after which you remove about
5mm of the spaghetti insulation from
the ends. The enamel insulation must
then be scraped away from the ends,
after which they are lightly soldered
together and terminated in a piggyback quick connector (Altronics Cat.
H2016A) to form the centre tap.
This centre-tap connector is now
plugged into the CT terminal on the
power supply PCB. The earth lead
prepared earlier is then fitted between
62 Silicon Chip
13 Nylon P-clamps, 5mm diameter
(Altronics H 4201)
1 Nylon P-clamp, 9.5mm diameter
(Altronics H 4221)
4 self-adhesive flat cable clamps
(Altronics H 4520)
2 self-adhesive cable tie mounts,
12.5mm (Altronics H 4107)
20 small Nylon cable ties
1 1-metre length of 5mm-diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 rubber insulation boot to cover
mains switch (Altronics H 1472)
Heatsink compound for rectifier
1m red 32/0.20 extra heavy-duty
hook-up wire (Altronics W 2283)
1m black 32/0.20 extra heavy-duty
hook-up wire (Altronics W 2284)
250mm 32/0.20 heavy-duty blue
hook-up wire (Altronics W 2275)
1m green 32/0.20 extra heavy-duty
hook-up wire (Altronics W 2285)
1m figure-8 shielded audio cable
(Altronics W 3022)
2m heavy-duty 102/0.12 or 41/0.20
speaker cable (Altronics W 1240)
500mm heavy-duty green/yellow
mains-rated cable
Modules
Screws, nuts & spacers
2 Ultra-LD Mk.3 power amplifier
modules (July-August 2011)
1 power supply module (September 2011)
1 loudspeaker protector module
(October 2011)
1 stereo preamplifier module
(November-December 2011)
1 3-way stereo input selector module plus switch board (November-December 2011)
IDC headers & cables
2 10-pin IDC cable-mounting
sockets (Altronics P 5310)
2 14-pin IDC cable-mounting
sockets (Altronics P 5314)
1 550mm-length of 10-way IDC
cable (Altronics W 2610)
1 650mm-length of 14-way IDC
cable (Altronics W 2614)
Wire & cable
1m brown 32/0.20 extra heavyduty mains-rated hook-up wire
(Altronics W 2280)
the remaining piggyback terminal and
the relevant chassis quick connector.
The outer 40V AC leads can now be
trimmed, fitted with spade connectors
and plugged into the AC terminals of
the bridge rectifier. Use a couple of
extra cable ties to bind these to the
centre-tap leads.
The two 15V AC secondary windings were similarly colour coded on
the supplied prototype transfomer. As
shown in Fig.1 last month, these leads
are terminated in a 3-way screw terminal block on the power supply module,
with the central black and white leads
50 M3 x 6mm pan-head machine
screws
11 M3 x 10mm pan-head machine
screws
4 M3 hex nuts
50 M3 flat washers
17 M4 x 10mm panhead screws
21 M4 nuts
1 M4 x 16mm screw (to secure
bridge rectifier BR1)
16 M4 flat washers
10 M4 shakeproof washers (for
bridge rectifier BR1 and chassis earth points)
14 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
(Altronics H 1216)
4 M3 x 25mm tapped spacers
(Altronics H 1233)
3 M2 x 12mm machine screws,
nuts and washers (to secure
RCA sockets on input selector
board to the rear panel)
6 6g x 12mm countersink selftapping screws (to secure IEC
connector and loudspeaker
terminal panels)
again forming the centre tap.
Begin by trimming these leads to
length, then remove 5mm of insulation
from the ends, scrape away the enamel
and lightly solder them together before
securing them in the screw-terminal
block. The outer 15V AC leads can
then be routed alongside the centre-tap
leads, trimmed and secured to their
relevant screw terminals.
Cable ties can then be used to secure
the four leads together.
12V windings & a nasty trap
Our prototype transformer also
siliconchip.com.au
This inside view shows how the preamplifier and switch modules are mounted in position. Note that in the final version,
an earth lead is also run from the base of the chassis to a spade connector on the front panel (see Fig.1 last month).
came with two grey 12V tappings,
which aren’t used here. If present,
these leads can be shortened to 3035mm and covered in heatshrink.
However, there’s a nasty trap here.
Inside each length of grey spaghetti
insulation are two enamel-covered
leads. In each case, the ends of these
two leads must be stripped of enamel
and soldered together.
If you don’t do that, the 15V
windings will be open circuit. That’s
because the 12V windings form part of
the 15V windings, so failing to reconnect the wires inside each grey length
of insulation renders the 15V windings
inoperative.
DO NOT under any circumstances
connect the wires in one grey lead to
the wires in the other grey lead.
The best way to deal with these 12V
leads is to cut them to unequal lengths,
then join the two wires in each individual lead. These wires can then be
insulated with some 1.5mm-diameter
heatshrink, after which you can sleeve
both leads together with some 5mmdiameter heatshrink (see photo below).
Be gentle with the heat – the spaghetti insulation on the grey leads (and
on adjacent leads) is easily damaged.
You can now reattach the side to the
chassis. Be careful when installing the
self-tapping screw on the bottom edge
at the rear – it must be well clear of
the mains wiring.
Mounting the amplifiers
Before installing the two power
amplifier modules, it’s first necessary
to solder the two loudspeaker cables
to their output pads on the underside
of each PCB – see photo on page 65.
As explained in the panel accompanying this photo, this is necessary to
minimise distortion.
The power amplifiers can now be
mounted in the chassis. To do that,
first turn the chassis upside down
and check that the powder coating has
been scraped away from around the
Here’s how the 230V AC wiring is routed to the power switch on the front panel. This wiring is sleeved in 5mm-diameter
heatshrink over most of its length and is secured to the floor of the chassis using Nylon P-clips. Note the rubber insulating
boot (or cover) that’s pushed over the mains switch.
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 63
Shielding The Toroidal Transfomer
This view shows how the copper strap that’s used to shield the transformer
is held in place using using a 90-120mm stainless-steel pipe clamp.
T
HE TOROIDAL transformer used in the
Ultra-LD Mk.3 amplifier was initially
unshielded. However, during testing, we
found that the amount of hum and rectifier
buzz from the windings was enough to
cause some noise and hum in the output,
albeit at a signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio of better than 100dB (which is still quite good). It
was worse in the left channel which has its
amplifier module closer to the transformer
than the right channel.
To fix this problem, we adopted a technique that was commonly employed in E-I
transformers where it was common to wrap
a copper strap in close proximity around
the windings – see photo. The copper
strap is referred to as a “flux band” and it
effectively provides a shorted turn to all
the leakage flux produced by the core of
transformer.
Above: it was quite common for
Australian-made E-I transformers
to be fitted with a copper strap to
minimise the leakage flux.
64 Silicon Chip
With E-I transformers (E & I refer to the
shape of the stamped steel laminations),
the copper strap is wrapped around the
core and the outside of the windings and
is soldered to produce a low resistance
shorted turn.
While we can fit a copper strap around
the outside of a toroidal transformer, it is
not possible to solder it, as to do so would
damage the outside insulation. So to hold
the copper strap tightly in place, we used a
90-120mm stainless steel pipe clamp with
a worm-screw adjustment. These can be
obtained from plumbing suppliers.
The strap was cut from a sheet of
0.5mm-thick copper (obtained from a scrap
metal dealer) to give a strap measuring 450
x 45mm. This is easily done if you have a
guillotine but if you are careful you can do
it with a pair of large tin-snips.
The steps are as follows. Make sure that
the copper sheet is as free from blemishes
as possible. Any small dimples or ripples
can be (gently) removed with a rubber
mallet or soft-face hammer. Then polish the
area to be cut off using Brasso or similar
metal polish. Polish it on both sides to a
bright shine.
Hopefully, the sheet has one straight
edge which can then be used for marking
out the dimensions of the strap. So you
need to scribe a line on the sheet on the
copper, 45mm from the straight edge.
Now there are several tricks to using
tin-snips to make precision straight-line
cuts. If at all possible, do a trial run on
a piece of thin steel or aluminium sheet.
By Leo Simpson
When cutting with tin-snips, depending on
whether they are left-hand or right-hand,
you will find that one side of the cut material
naturally curves up or down. You use this
natural curvature to produce the copper
strap – in our case we do want it curved.
Proceed with your cut very slowly – don’t
hurry it otherwise you are sure to get a
crooked cut. Keep going until you have a
strap more than 450mm long. Then scribe
lines at right angles to produce squared-off
ends of the strap. Again, cut these carefully
and then nip of the corners.
Do not try to straighten out the curve of
the strap. If you have finger-marks on the
copper surface, clean them off thoroughly.
Now we want to bend the strap in a
smooth circle so it will wrap smoothly
around the outside of the transformer
and produce an overlap of about 100mm.
The important point about this is that you
need a series of different circular formers,
starting large and coming down to about
90mm diameter or so. We used a number
of different sized paint tins and finished with
a length of 90mm plastic storm-water pipe.
The point about using different sized
pain tins is that if you use too small a former to start with, you run the risk of putting
kinks in the strap.
Once you have finished with the smallest former, you will find that the resulting
circular strap has a diameter of around
100 to 120mm and will be slightly springy.
Good! That makes it a little easier to fit
around the transformer. It can then be
locked in place with the stainless steel
pipe clamp referred to above.
In our case, we fitted the copper strap
to the transformer after it had been wired
in place, which made it quite tricky. The
copper strap improved the signal-to-noise
ratio from just over -100dB to -111dB in
the right channel and to -107dB in the left
channel which is excellent.
Some constructors may want to take
the risk of not fitting the transformer with
a copper strap initially. If they then decide
that their finished amplifier is insufficiently
quiet, they can still fit the strap.
On the other hand, if you feel that you
could not produce a neat and effective
copper band, then you could purchase a
shielded toroidal transformer from either
of two suppliers:
(1) Harbuch Electronics, phone (02) 9476
5854, www.harbuch.com.au
(2) Dyne Industries, phone (03) 9720 7233,
www.dyne.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Solder The Loudspeaker Cable Connections For Low Distortion
The loudspeaker cables are directly soldered to the underside of the power amplifier modules (left) and also to the
loudspeaker protector module (right) to achieve the lowest possible distortion figures.
As originally described in July 2011,
the Ultra-LD Mk.3 Amplifier Module
used a Molex Mini-fit Jr 4-pin socket
as a loudspeaker connector (CON3).
However, when we came to test the
fully-assembled stereo amplifier, we
found that the metal-to-metal contacts
in these connectors were a significant
cause of distortion. A similar effect was
found with the spade connectors on the
loudspeaker protection module.
holes for the six screws that are used
to secure the heatsinks.
That done, secure each module to
the chassis using three M3 x 10mm
screws which go into the heatsinks,
plus a lock washer under the head
of each screw. The lock washers bite
into the bare metal and ensure that the
heatsinks are solidly earthed.
Don’t over-tighten these screws – it’s
all too easy to strip the threads inside
the aluminium heatsinks if you do.
Be sure to route the loudspeaker cables as shown in Fig.1 when installing
the power amplifier modules. The cable for the right channel amplifier runs
directly back under the PCB towards
the rear of the chassis. By contrast,
the loudspeaker cable from the left
channel amplifier runs back under the
board towards the front of the chassis.
It then loops around and runs back
under the right channel amplifier.
Once the amplifier modules are in
position, secure their spacers on the
edges nearest the power supply to
the chassis using M3 x 6mm screws.
Temporarily loosen off the heatsink
siliconchip.com.au
The overall effect was sufficient to
double the distortion readings of the
complete amplifier. Accordingly, the
final assembly eliminates the connectors on the power amplifier modules
and the loudspeaker leads are directly
soldered to the output terminals of
the power amplifier modules instead.
Similarly, the push-on (female) spade
connectors have been eliminated from
the loudspeaker cables that go to the
screws to get everything to line up if
necessary.
The free ends of the loudspeaker
cable can now be soldered to the
loudspeaker protector module. If quick
connect terminals have already been
soldered on this board, then you can
solder the loudpeaker cables directly
to them. If not, you can temporarily
remove the loudspeaker protector and
drill holes in the PCB so that the loudspeaker cables can be directly soldered
to the relevant copper pads.
Don’t use bolt-on quick connectors
on the loudspeaker protector board they will only cause distortion.
Connecting the RCA cables
The RCA audio cables can now be
plugged into the preamplifier and to
the power amplifier. Note that the
RCA cable to the right-channel power
amplifier is routed via a P-clamp that’s
secured to one corner of the power supply module. A short piece of aerated
foam wrapped around the cable will
stop it from moving.
You will have to remove the exist-
loudspeaker protection module and all
connections are directly soldered to the
PCB (ie, the quick connect male spade
terminals are eliminated).
As far as the original Ultra-LD Mk.3
amplifier and loudspeaker protector
modules are concerned, the original
loudspeaker connection arrangement
can be retained where extremely low
distortion is not critical, eg, in a guitar
amplifier.
A small piece of red film is attached to
the inside of the front panel, over the
hole for the infrared receiver.
ing M3 x 6mm mounting screw at this
point and substitute an M3 x 10mm
screw when the P-clamp is installed.
The short RCA cable to the left-channel
amplifier is secured to its adjacent
audio input cable using a cable tie so
that it cannot come loose and contact
high voltage wiring.
Do not plug the supply connectors
into the power amplifier modules at
April 2012 65
The rear panel of the amplifier carries the three pairs of RCA input sockets, the loudspeaker terminals and the IEC
connector. Be sure to use self-tapping screws to secure the IEC connector, so that they are earthed to the chassis.
this stage. That step comes later, after
you have checked out the power supply voltages and the operation of the
loudspeaker protector.
Mounting the front panel
Now for the final assembly. Snap
the mains switch into its front-panel
cut-out with its outside terminal to the
top, then attach a small piece of red
film to the inside of the panel over the
hole for the infrared receiver. This can
be cut into a strip and secured with
short strips of duct tape at either end
(see photo) or you can use silicone.
The front panel can now be slid into
position and secured along its bottom
edge using the supplied countersink
machine screws. The mains leads can
then be connected to the switch and
the earth lead connected between the
lug on the rear of the front panel and
the adjacent chassis earth point – see
Fig.1 in Pt.1.
Note: this earth connection is not
present in the prototype. We decided
to add it after we had the prototype
metalwork made, to make it easier to
securely earth the front panel rather
than just rely on the machine screws
that secure the panel to the chassis. Do
not omit this earth connection.
Once the switch wiring is complete,
slide the rubber insulating boot over
the switch and secure it in place by
66 Silicon Chip
fitting a cable tie to the switch wires
close to where they enter the boot. The
remaining (fifth) P-clamp can then be
used to secure the switch wiring to
the chassis, before it disappears under
the lefthand power amplifier module.
Initial checks
There are a few things to check before connecting the loudspeaker leads
to the speaker protector or even plugging in a mains cord and switching on:
CHECK 1: Check the 230V wiring to
the IEC socket, mains transformer and
mains switch. In particular, the female
spade connectors should all be tightly
crimped, the connectors must be fully
insulated and there must be no wire
strands outside these connectors.
In addition, all spade connectors
must be a tight fit onto their lugs, especially at the IEC socket, the mains
switch and the bridge rectifier. Retension any connectors that slide on
too easily.
CHECK 2: Check that BR1’s positive
and negative terminals connect to
the correct terminals on the power
supply board.
CHECK 3: Check that all the electrolytic
capacitors on the power supply board
are installed with the correct polarity. These things have a nasty habit
of exploding if they’re in the wrong
way around. The same goes for other
electrolytics across the supply rails on
the other modules.
In fact, it’s a good idea to wear safety
glasses when switching on for the first
time, in case you do have a capacitor in
the wrong way around or you accidentally reverse the polarity to the power
supply module. Exploding capacitors
and eyeballs don’t mix too well!
Better still, fit the lid to the case
before initially applying power to the
amplifier – see Step 5 below.
CHECK 4: Use a multimeter to confirm
that all the chassis panels are correctly
earthed. Do that by checking for continuity between the earth terminal of
the IEC socket and each of the panels
in turn. Remove some of the powder
coating from an inside surface of each
panel to make this check, if necessary.
Similarly, check that the heatsinks
are earthed to the chassis and that all
external screw heads are earthed.
CHECK 5: Use a multimeter to confirm
that the heatsink transistors (Q10-Q16)
on each amplifier module are electrically isolated from the heatsink itself
(see the article in the August 2011
issue).
Test & adjustment
The basic procedure here is to test
the output rails from the power supply
module before applying power to the
remaining modules.
siliconchip.com.au
The quiescent current flowing in the output stage of
each power amplifier is initially adjusted by installing 68W
5W resistors in place of the fuses. The voltage across one
resistor is then monitored and trimpot VR1 adjusted for a
reading of 9.5V – equivalent to a quiescent current of 140mA.
The easiest way to connect the resistors is to “blow” the
fuse wires in a couple of spare M205 fuses, then drill holes
in the end caps and solder the resistors in place as shown.
The original fuses can then be removed and the “modified”
fuses clipped into place – see photo below.
Here’s the step-by-step procedure:
STEP 1: Disconnect the supply leads to the preamplifier
and the loudspeaker protector (do this at the power supply module).
STEP 2: Check that the DC supplies to the power amplifier
modules are unplugged.
STEP 3: Remove the fuses from the power amplifier modules.
STEP 4: Slide out the fuse drawer at the bottom of the IEC
connector, fit a 3A slow-blow fuse into the plastic lugs at
the bottom of the drawer and slide the drawer back into
position.
STEP 5: Connect an IEC power cord to the amplifier and
use a multimeter to confirm continuity between the earth
pin of the plug and the chassis earth. That done, plug the
cord into a mains socket and switch on.
Warning: don’t go poking around the rear of the IEC
socket and the front-panel switch when the device is
plugged into the mains. Most of the terminals will be at
230V AC!
Note also that high DC and AC voltages are present in
siliconchip.com.au
G r e a t V a l u e i n Te s t & M e a s u r e m e n t
Adjusting The Quiescent Current
Through The Power Amplifiers
CAN bus analysis now also available
in the oscilloscope entry level class
200 MHz 2[4] Channel Digital
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2GSa/s Real Time, Low Noise Flash A/D Converter
(Reference Class)
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MSO (Mixed Signal Opt. HO3508) with 8 Logic
Channels
Serial Bus Trigger and Hardware accelerated Decode
incl. List View, I2C, SPI, UART/RS-232, CAN, LIN
(optional)
Automatic Search for User defined Events
Pass/Fail Test based on Masks
Vertical Sensitivity 1mV/div., Offset Control
±0.2...±20V
12div. x-Axis Display Range, 20div. y-Axis Display
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Trigger Modes: Slope, Video, Pulsewidth, Logic,
Delayed, Event
Rohde & Schwarz (Australia) Pty Ltd
Unit 2, 75 Epping Road, North Ryde
NSW 2113
www.rohde-schwarz.com.au
sales.australia<at>rohde-schwarz.com
April 2012 67
Selecting The Mode & Programming The Remote
As stated in the text, it’s necessary
to program the universal remote control
correctly. By default, the microcontroller’s RC5 code is set to TV but SAT1
or SAT2 can also be selected. Just press
and hold button S1 on the Switch Board
during power-up for SAT1 or button
S2 for SAT2. Pressing S3 at power-up
reverts to TV mode.
Once you’ve chosen the mode or
“device”, the correct code must be programmed into the remote. This involves
selecting TV, SAT1 or SAT2 on the remote (to agree with the microcontroller
set-up) and then programming in a
three or 4-digit number for a Philips de-
this circuit. In particular, the 40VAC
transformer secondaries are connected
together to provide a total of 80VAC to
the bridge rectifier, while the amplifier
power supply rails total 114V DC.
Do not touch any of this high-voltage circuitry (including the fuses on
the power amplifiers) while power is
applied – see warning panel.
STEP 6: Use a multimeter to check
the various DC outputs on the supply
module. There should be close to ±57V
on CON1 & CON2, ±15V on CON3 and
+20V on CON6 (all with respect to
0V). In addition, you should be able
to measure 30VAC on CON5.
If you don’t get the correct voltages,
switch off immediately and check for
wiring and component errors.
STEP 7: If the power supply checks
out, switch off, wait until the LEDs on
the supply board go out, then reconnect the AC and DC supplies to the
loudspeaker protector module. Apply
power and check that the relay turns
on after about 5s. If it does, temporarily short the terminals on CON3 – the
relay should immediately switch off.
Similarly, the relay should immediately switch off if you disconnect
one of the AC leads to CON2 (note: do
not temporarily install a link between
CON1 & CON2 for testing, as described
in the October 2011 article, if the 30V
AC leads are connected to CON2).
Now check that that the relay
switches off if you connect a 3V (eg,
2 x 1.5V cells in series) or 9V battery (either way around) between the
LSPKIN+ terminal and the ground (-)
terminal of CON1. Repeat this test for
68 Silicon Chip
vice. That’s because most Philips
devices (but not all) rely on the RC5
code standard.
Most universal remote controls can
be used, including the Altronics A1012
($19.95). For this remote, use a code of
023 or 089 for TV mode, 242 for SAT1
or 035 for SAT2.
In the case of other universal remotes, it’s just a matter of testing the
various codes until you find one that
works. There are usually no more than
15 codes (and usually a lot less) listed
for each Philips device, so it shouldn’t
take long to find the correct one.
Note that some codes may only
the RSPKIN+ terminal, then reverse
the battery polarity and perform both
tests again.
STEP 8: Switch off, wait until the
power supply LEDs to go out and reconnect the ±15V supply wiring from
the preamplifier. Reapply power and
check that the blue front-panel power
LED lights.
One of the blue switch LEDs should
also light. Check that you can manually select the inputs by pressing the
input switches.
STEP 9: Set up and test the remote
control functions for the preamp, as
detailed in the December 2011 issue.
That done, adjust trimpot VR2 as described, so that the muting function
operates correctly.
The Altronics A1012 universal
remote shown above is ideal for use
with this unit. Note that it must be
programmed by choosing a mode (TV,
SAT1 or SAT2) and entering in the corresponding code – see the above panel.
STEP 10: Switch off again, wait for
the supply LEDs to go out, then connect the ±57V DC supply for the right
channel power amplifier. Check that
the on-board fuses have been removed.
STEP 11: Connect 68Ω 5W resistors
across the fuse clips as described in the
September 2011 article on the UltraLD Mk.3 amplifier module. That done,
adjust the quiescent current through
the output stage by following steps
1-11 in that article.
STEP 12: Remove the safety resistors
and install the fuses for that module.
STEP 13: Repeat the last three steps
for the left-channel power amplifier.
The unit will
work with most
universal remotes
including the Altronics
A1012.
partially work, eg, they might control
the volume but not the input selection.
In that case, try a different code. In addition, some remotes may only work in
one mode (eg, TV but not SAT).
Refer to the troubleshooting procedure
in the September 2011 article if you
strike problems.
In particular, note that the DC offset
voltage across each pair of speaker
terminals should be less that ±50mV
with power applied.
Listening test
That’s it – your new, high-performance Ultra-LD Mk.3 Stereo Amplifier
is ready for action.
Connect it to a CD and/or DVD
player and a pair of loudspeakers,
switch on and listen with your ear
close to one of the loudspeakers but
without any music playing. Even
with the volume at full level, there
should only be a barely perceptible
“hiss” from the speaker (and that’s in
a quiet room).
Now turn the volume control back to
a low level, select the appropriate input and play some music. You should
be rewarded with clean, undistorted
sound and the amplifier should have
plenty of power when you wind the
wick up.
Finally, check that you can vary the
volume and select inputs using the remote control. The yellow acknowledge
(ACK) LED should flash each time a
remote control button is pressed, while
the yellow LED comes on when the
sound is muted.
That completes the assembly. Next
month, we’ll publish the specifications
and do a comparison between this
new amplifier and the 20W Class-A
Stereo Amplifier described from MaySC
September 2007.
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by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00
See
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 474 pages in paperback.
Review
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and advanced April
2011
levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a copy,
along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
PIC IN PRACTICE
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $88.00
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students and
teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the world
of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introduc-
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
tory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $81.00
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition
focuses entirely on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and
12F675. 226 pages in paperback.
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
By Carter & Mancini – 3RD EDITION $100.00
Substantially updates coverage for low-speed and high-speed applications,
and provides step-by-step walk-throughs for design and selection of op
amps. Huge 648 pages!
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting
up a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered in this
176-page paperback book.
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
USING UBUNTU LINUX
by J Rolfe & A Edney – published 2007 $27.00
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
Ubuntu Linux is a free and easy-to-use operating system, a viable alternative to Windows and Mac OS. Introduces Ubuntu, tells how to set it up,
covers the various Open Office applications and gives troubleshooting
hints and tips. Highly recommended. 222 pages in paperback
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal
for engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics
and sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
See
Review
Feb
2004
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2006 $61.00
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters
and receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes - Third edition 2006 $51.00
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
Intended for non-specialist users of electric motors and drives,
filling the gap between academic texts and general "handbooks".
Explores all of the widely-used modern types of motor and drive
including conventional & brushless DC, induction motors, steppers, servos, synchronous and reluctance. 384 pages, soft cover.
e
Review
Feb
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
2003
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00
286 pages in soft cover.
AC MACHINES
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order;
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Q1 P-CHANNEL
V+
Protected Circuit
S
D
C GATE
K
G
ZD1
18V
A
V–
Protected Circuit
V+
100k
C LOAD
R LOAD
C GATE
V–
100k
Q2 N-CHANNEL
A P-Channel Mosfet protection in supply high side
can be a major disadvantage.
For example, in battery-operated
circuits this can effectively reduce
battery life. If a circuit running from
two AA cells can operate down to
1.8V, a polarity protection diode
increases the cut-off threshold to
around 2.4V (1.8V + 0.6V). It will
therefore stop working before alkaline cells are fully discharged and
it may not work at all with NiMH
or Nicad cells which are only about
1.2V each when fully charged.
A series diode is also a problem
for power circuits which draw a lot
of current. A large diode is required
and dissipation can be high (many
watts), significantly reducing circuit
efficiency and presenting a problem
in a sealed case that may be exposed
to high ambient temperatures.
If a Schottky diode is used instead
of a standard silicon diode, the volt-
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70 Silicon Chip
C LOAD
R LOAD
ZD2
18V
A
B N-Channel Mosfet protection in supply low side
Using Mosfets for reverse polarity protection
Most SILICON CHIP projects contain
some form of supply reverse polarity protection, so the circuit is not
damaged if the supply connections
are accidentally reversed (eg, battery inserted backwards or plugpack
incorrectly wired).
Traditionally, a standard diode is
connected in series with the positive
supply terminal. But lately we have
produced designs where a Mosfet
is used instead: the 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier (May 2010), the LED
Dazzler (February 2011) and the
MiniSwitcher (February 2012). This
has confused some readers, mainly
because the configuration used is
unusual for a Mosfet.
The problem with a traditional
series diode is that it reduces the
supply voltage to the protected
circuit by 0.6-1.1V. In most cases,
this isn’t a problem but sometimes it
K
age loss is lower (0.1-0.6V) which
is better but it doesn’t eliminate
the problems. At very high currents
(10A+), dissipation is still significant.
By contrast, the voltage loss when
using a Mosfet can be negligible (less
than 5mV at 1A) with practically
no dissipation and little reduction
in efficiency compared to a circuit
with no reverse polarity protection.
Circuit (A) shows how a P-channel
Mosfet is inserted in the high side
of the supply circuit, similar to a
regular diode. To understand this
circuit it is important to understand
how Mosfets work.
In their discrete form (ie, not in
an integrated circuit), virtually all
Mosfets have a parasitic “body diode” between the drain and source
terminals. The Mosfet’s conductive
channel is in parallel with the body
diode and this can be thought of as a
resistance which is controlled by the
gate voltage (relative to the source
terminal voltage).
For a P-channel Mosfet, the channel resistance is high when the gate
voltage is close to or above the source
voltage. If the gate is pulled negative
relative to the source, by at least a
few volts, the channel resistance
drops dramatically. The gate-source
voltage at which significant channel
current flows is known as the gate
threshold voltage and is usually
around 3V, although newer Mosfets
can have much lower thresholds.
The maximum gate-source voltage
must be limited or else the Mosfet
will be damaged. A typical limit is
±20V although newer Mosfets with
lower gate thresholds often have a
siliconchip.com.au
lower maximum limit (eg, ±12V).
When the gate voltage is well
beyond the threshold, the resulting
channel resistance figure is called
the on-resistance (more properly,
static drain-source on-resistance or
RDS(on)). For high-current applications, lower RDS(on) is generally better as this minimises I2R conduction
losses and thus dissipation.
Now, while the body diode determines how a Mosfet must be
orientated when used as a switch
(so the diode is reverse-biased when
it is off), in fact the channel can
conduct current in either direction.
So when the Mosfet is on, the body
diode is effectively shorted out and
is therefore irrelevant.
Consider what happens in circuit
(A) when power is first applied. All
capacitors are discharged, including
Q1’s internal gate capacitance CGATE
(which is inherent to the Mosfet), so
its gate-source voltage is zero and the
channel is not conducting. Initially
then, current flows into the load via
Q1’s body diode and is subject to its
forward voltage drop.
As CLOAD charges, the voltage
across the load increases and so
CGATE begins to charge via the 100kΩ
resistor. Together these form an RC
low-pass filter and the response of
this filter determines how long it
takes for Q1 to turn on. Depending
on the supply impedance and the
size of the load capacitance, CLOAD’s
charge time may provide an additional delay.
Eventually Q1’s gate-source voltage reaches the threshold and its
channel conducts, shunting current
around the body diode and thus reducing the voltage across Q1. Very
quickly, this drops to a value limited
only by Q1’s RDS(on) figure and the
load current (V = IR).
But if the supply is connected
with the wrong polarity, Q1’s gate
is pulled above its source voltage
rather than below and so the channel
will not conduct. Also, in this case,
the body diode is reverse-biased so
only a very small amount of current
can flow, via the 100kΩ resistor.
Note that Mosfet Q1’s maximum
IC1: 4093B
100nF
1M
1
IC1a
5
3
IC1b
12
13
14
11
6.8k
B
10
1 F
IC1c
7
1k
Q1
BC557
C
IC1d
4
8
9
6V
BATTERY
100 F
6
2
E
PIEZO
BUZZER
K
D1
1N4148
2.7M
1 F
+
–
A
A
PROBES
BC557
A
Simple water
level alarm
This battery-operated alarm circuit provides an audible warning
when the water level rises past a
certain point. For example, it could
be used in the bilge of a boat or in
a basement. Its low current drain
means the four AA cells will last
for a long time. It is based around a
CD4093 quad Schmitt-trigger NAND
gate (IC1) and little else.
IC1a is wired with its input pins 1
& 2 tied together (ie, as an inverter)
and forms an astable oscillator that
runs at around 1Hz. Its square-wave
output is fed to IC1b which buffers
and inverts the signal to drive inverter IC1c. Its output is connected
to probe A via a 1kΩ resistor.
The two probes are electrically
insulated but placed in proximity
drain-source voltage rating must be
sufficient to avoid reverse breakdown in this situation. In applications where the normal supply voltage can exceed Q1’s rated maximum
gate-source voltage, zener diode
ZD1 protects it from damage. If the
supply voltage is over 18V, ZD1
conducts, limiting the gate voltage
to a safe level and the 100kΩ resistor limits the current flow in this
situation.
An alternative configuration is
shown as circuit (B), this time using
an N-channel Mosfet rather than a
P-channel device. As a result, the
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
B
1N4148
B
K
E
C
in the vessel to be monitored. When
water covers them both, it forms a
circuit between them, with a certain
amount of resistance (depending on
proximity, salt content and other
factors).
Current from IC1c’s output then
flows via the water and diode D1
to charge the 1µF capacitor at pin
13 of IC1d. This capacitor is slowly
discharged by a parallel 2.7MΩ resistor which prevents false triggering.
With both probes submerged, the
pin 13 input of IC1d gates the 1Hz
signal at its pin 12 through to PNP
transistor Q1 which drives the piezo
buzzer which has an internal oscillator. Hence the buzzer emits chirps
once every second until the alarm is
turned off or the water level drops
below the probes.
Michael Azzopardi,
Deer Park, Vic. ($40)
circuit polarity is reversed but it
is otherwise identical in operation
to (A).
The advantage is that N-channel
Mosfets have a lower RDS(on) compared to P-channel Mosfets of similar geometry. However, the voltage
loss across Q2 (however small) shifts
the protected circuit’s ground potential relative to the supply and this
isn’t always desirable – especially if
it’s possible for the two grounds to
be joined elsewhere (eg, via signal
cables).
Nicholas Vinen,
SILICON CHIP.
Keep your copies safe with our handy binders
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siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 71
Circuit Notebook – Continued
+5V
AA
DOOR LIMIT
SWITCHES
CON1
1
1OPEN
1CLOSED
2OPEN
2CLOSED
100nF
4x
10k
PS2501-4 OR
TLP283-4 OR
4 x 4N28, ETC.
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
7
7
8
8
15
6
14
5
13
4
12
3
11
2
10
1
7
16
+V
IN0
OUT5
IN1
OUT4
IN3
3
Vcc
2
433MHz
4
ANT
TX
MODULE
GND
DATA
12
IN4
OUT1
SerIN
SerO/ 13
OUT0
1
433MHz
Tx MODULE
220
0V
14
9
A
ICSP
SKT
LED1
10k
K
0V
1
REG1 7805
K
IN
OUT
K
330 F
25V
A
7805
LED
100nF
100 F
16V
BB
100nF
K
A
GND
IN
OUT
GND
1N4004
470
A
This unit uses a 433MHz wireless
link to remotely monitor two garage
doors, to indicate whether they are
open, closed or in mid-travel.
In operation, limit switches are
used to detect the open and closed
position of each door. The limit
switches can be either reed or micro
switches and are mounted on the
walls adjacent to the doors. Pressing the RUN switch on the receiver
displays the door positions for 15
seconds. Both the transmitter and
receiver use PICAXE14M2 microcontrollers to drive 433MHz modules.
The transmitter circuit is continuously powered from a 9V–12V DC
plugpack which feeds 5V regulator
REG1. Each limit switch is connected
in parallel with the internal LED of
an associated optocoupler. The four
optocouplers for the two doors are
connected in series (current loop
style) with two 470Ω resistors across
the unregulated DC supply to REG1.
Closing a limit switch diverts the
loop current from the internal LED of
the associated optocoupler, turning
72 Silicon Chip
4
+5V
AA
D2
1N4004
433MHz garage door
position monitor
23
GND
470
9–12V DC
INPUT FROM
PLUG PACK
+
–
9
IC1
OUT3
PICAXE
14M2 OUT2 11
IN2
D1 1N4004
A
8
10
22k
BB
170mm
ANTENNA
100nF
its transistor output off and thereby
allowing one of the micro’s inputs
to be pulled high by a 10kΩ resistor.
The door status information is
transmitted once each second using
the “rfout” command. This requires
a high level from OUT5 (pin 8) to
power the VCC pin on the transmitter
module. With the transmitter active,
OUT2 (pin 11 of IC1) sends eight
bytes of Manchester-encoded data
to the DATA pin on the transmitter
module. This consists of four door
status bytes followed by four PIN
code bytes. For each eight bytes of
data sent, OUT1 (pin 12) flashes LED1
to show the transmitter is working.
OUT5 then goes low, to power off the
transmitter module.
The receiver circuit is powered by
a 6V battery. This is fed via diode D1
and PNP transistor Q1. The 433MHz
receiver module and PICAXE micro
are normally off, waiting for the
RUN pushbutton (S1) to be pressed.
This turns transistor Q1 on, to feed
power to the receiver and micro.
The PICAXE micro then sets its pin
7 high, turning on transistor Q2 and
keeping Q1 on, so that the RUN
button can be released. The micro
K
keeps the transisIan Ro
is this m bertson
tors powered on
of a $15 onth’s winner
for 15 seconds,
0 gift vo
ucher fr
Hare &
which allows reForbes om
ceiver data to be
processed and the six
door status LEDs to show the
positions of the doors. (Always wait
for the door status LEDs to turn on before releasing the RUN pushbutton).
The door status and the PIN code
bytes from the transmitter are processed using the “rfin” command and
after first checking the PIN code, the
relevant door status LEDs are turned
on to show whether each door is fully
open, fully closed or midway. Also
pin 3 flashes LED7 to show data is
being received.
Using a 1-second data rate allows
other equipment to share the same
frequency but adds a short delay to
the door status LEDs. For the receiver
to operate properly, you must use a
RUN pushbutton with a good quality
“snap action” mechanism.
The prototype used 433MHz transmitter and receiver modules from
Jaycar, Cat. ZW-3100 and ZW3102,
respectively.
They each require a basic antenna
siliconchip.com.au
Q1 BC327
10k
B
1
100nF
7
4
6
14
Vcc
1
E
C
170mm
ANTENNA
5
15
ANT
433MHz
RX DATA 16
MODULE
4
3
GND
2
3
2
17
220
+V
IN0
OUT5
IN1
OUT4
IN2
IN3
K
9
220
10
12
IN4
OUT1
SerIN
SerO/ 13
OUT0
220 A
220 A
14
100nF
LED1
K
OPEN1
A
K
A
K
MIDWAY1
K
CLOSE1
220
A
D1
1N4004
K
A
1k
1k
POWER
S2
OPEN2
K
MIDWAY2
220
0V
22k
220 A
IC1
OUT3
PICAXE
14M2 OUT2 11
A
LED7
8
(OPTIONAL)
CLOSE2
LED6
K
Q2
BC337
ICSP
SKT
B
6V
BATTERY
C
RUN
S1
E
10k
433MHz Rx MODULE
BC327, BC337
LEDS
1N4004
1
4
14
17
2
3
15
16
and a 170mm length of hook-up
wire is adequate. The receiver will
only operate successfully if located
several metres away from the transmitter, otherwise the antenna input
circuit may be overloaded.
The transmitter and receiver cir-
A
cuits include a 3-pin programming
socket, allowing the same program
“gdmonitor_14m2.bas” to be downloaded into both units. The set-up
routine checks the voltage level at
pin 7 at start-up and selects the correct sub-program to run. The program
K
B
K
A
E
C
listing includes additional comments
and notes about operation.
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW.
Note: the software (gdmonitor_14m2.
bas) can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website.
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siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 73
74 Silicon Chip
K
A
K
A
S1
S6
FUEL
LOW
D6
K
K
A
LED6
D22
1.2k
OIL
D1
A
LED1
D17
1.2k
K
A
K
A
S7
PARK
BRAKE
D7
K
K
A
LED7
1.2k
S2
WATER
TEMP
D2
A
LED2
D18
K
A
K
A
K
A
S8
SEAT
BELT
D8
K
K
A
LED8
1.2k
S3
BRAKE
CIRCUIT
D3
A
LED3
D19
1.2k
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
K
K
A
LOCKED FOUR
WHEEL DRIVE
S9
D9
A
LED9
1.2k
S4
CHARGE
D4
A
LED4
D20
1.2k
K
A
K
A
K
S10
WATER
LEVEL
D10
K
A
LED10
1.2k
S5
GLOW
D5
A
LED5
D21
1.2k
NOTE: ALL LEDS ARE 5mm WHITE, CLEAR (JAYCAR ZD-0190 OR SIMILAR)
ALL 1.2k RESISTORS ARE 1W RATED
ALL 10k RESISTORS ARE 0.25W
K
A
K
A
1.2k
K
A
TEST
S11
D23
K
A
K
10k
B
A
K
D1–D27: 1N4004
SIDE
LIGHTS
D11
A
LED11
K
A
E
D12
K
10k
B
K
A
MAIN BEAM
K
A
LED12
D27
Q1
BC337
C
1.2k
A
BUZZER
E
D13
K
A
10k
B
E
K
A
E
K
A
10k
B
A
K
K
A
E
B
C
BC337
IN
GND
D15
D26
K
A
K
A
10k
B
K
A
OUT
LM2940
DRIVING
LIGHTS
Q4
BC337
C
D24
1.2k
470nF
LH
RH
INDICATORS INDICATORS
A
K
Q3
BC337
D14
IN
LED14
GND
1.2k
C
D25
LED13
HEATED REAR
WINDOW
Q2
BC337
C
LEDS
K
A
1.2k
100 F
16V
OUT
REG1 LM2940CT-9
FUSE1 1A
E
GND
Q5
BC337
C
LED15
1.2k
0V
+24V
Circuit Notebook – Continued
siliconchip.com.au
12/24V vehicle
instrument panel
This instrument panel was designed for use in a vehicle converted from 12V to 24V, to suit a 4-cylinder diesel
engine which was fitted in place of the original V8 petrol
engine. It was decided that fitting a new panel was better than changing all the 12V lamps to 24V types. This
design can also be used with 12V electrical systems; in
this case, change the 1.2kΩ 1W resistors to 560Ω 0.5W.
In combination with the sensors throughout the vehicle, it lights LEDs in response to various situations
such as the engine being cold, the headlights being
switched on, low coolant water level and so on. It also
has a buzzer which sounds when a problem occurs and
a test pushbutton which allows you to check that the
LEDs and buzzer are all working.
While this circuit was designed to suit one particular
vehicle, it can easily be adapted for others or to a fixed
installation. The white LEDs were placed behind the
existing instrument panel, to illuminate the translucent
indicator cut-outs in the panel. Many white LEDs have a
narrow beam angle and may not illuminate the indicators
properly; if so, rub the lenses with fine emery paper to
improve the diffusion. Coloured LEDs can be used too.
Switches S1-S10 represent various sensors which
conduct when on. These drive the LEDs directly, connecting their cathodes to ground (0V). For the headlights,
indicators and rear window heater, the signals are active
high. As a result, indicator LEDs11-15 are driven by
NPN transistors Q1-Q5 which are in turn driven by the
relevant signals via 10kΩ series current-limiting resistors.
The left and right indicator inputs are ORed using
diodes D25 and D26, to drive transistor Q4 and LED14
if either the left or right indicators are in use.
The buzzer sounds whenever one of LED1-LED6 or
LED14 lights. In each case, if the LED cathode is brought
low, current from the buzzer flows through one of diodes
D17-D22 or D24. The positive buzzer terminal is driven
from +9V, derived from the +24V (or +12V) supply by
REG1, a low-dropout linear regulator. Diode D27 prevents any voltage spikes on the regulator output when
the buzzer turns off.
When test pushbutton S1 is pressed, current can flow
from all LED cathodes to ground via diodes D1-D15 and
also from the buzzer via D23.
Ron Groves,
Cooloola Cove, Qld. ($60)
Made in Germany; 10 year warranty
RF Spectrum Analysers:
2.5 GHz, 4 GHz, 6 GHz, 8 GHz, 9.4 GHz.
From only $660 including HyperLOG
antenna, carry case, mini-tripod/pistol
grip, MCS software (Win/Mac/Linux).
HyperLOG antennas:
Broadband, calibrated receive/transmit antennas
(100W CW). 2.5 GHz, 4 GHz, 6 GHz, 8 GHz,
10 GHz, 18 GHz. From only $424 including carry
case, cable, mini-tripod/pistol-grip.
HyperLOG X active antennas:
Active, calibrated receive antennas. 2.5 GHz,
4 GHz, 6 GHz, 8 GHz. From $1,288 with
carry case, cable, mini-tripod/pistol-grip.
Optional laser pointer and compass.
Proposed Format for KitStop ¼ Page
USB RF Spectrum Analysers:
Ad Silicon Chip
Magazine
April
6 GHz,
8 GHz, 9.4 GHz. From $1,131
including2012
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies of SILICON CHIP
safe with these handy binders
Available Aust. only. Price: $A14.95 plus
$10 p&p per order (includes GST). Just
fill in and mail the handy order form in
this issue; or fax (02) 9939 2648; or call
(02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit
card number.
Buy five and get them postage free!
siliconchip.com.au
REAL
VALUE
AT
$14.95
PLUS
P&P
OmniLOG antenna, carry case, MCS spectrum
analysis & logging software (Win/Mac/Linux).
Order online at... www.measurement.net.au
Tel: 1300 726 550
Measurement Innovation Pty Ltd
NEW 30AMP 12V/ 24 DC PWM WITH
SOFT START FEATURE
The MXA087PWM MODULE
is a new generation
microprocessor - based
DC Motor Speed
Controller for loads
up to 30Amps at
either 12V
or 24VDC
Fully
Assembled
and Tested
MXA087
Features:
+LED Display
+0-100% Duty Cycle
+Pushbutton Set Up
+Selectable Frequencies
100Hz, 500Hz, 1kHz, 2kHz,
4kHz and 8kHz
+3 Preset Speed Settings
$50.22 inc. GST
+Built-in 1 second Soft Start
Plus
$7.50
Pack & Post
+MOSFET Output for
Buy on-line at:
High Efficiency
Value!!!
www.kitstop.com.au
P.O. Box 5422 Clayton Vic.3168
Tel:0432 502 755
April 2012 75
HOT APRIL DEALS
From Your One-Stop Electronics Shop
SAVE 20%
38
$
P 8137
159
$
3 Channel Wireless Energy Meter
This wireless home energy monitor can log
power usage on up to 3 mains outlets around
the house. Includes channel 1 plug in sensor &
base station. Additional sensors sold separately.
30m range. Displays usage in kW/h or $.
Sensors
P 8138 Ch. 2 P 8139 Ch. 3 $19.95ea
SAVE 10%
M 8996
Gift idea for boaties & gardeners
SAVE $30
X 7062A
T 2418
Wireless sensors can be located
up to 100m away from screen
Monitor & Record Weather Conditions
Providing an instant snapshot readout of conditions, plus the
ability to log long term trends via PC. Includes wireless solar
powered sensors, base station & software allowing you to log
all data direct to your computer. Windows 2000/XP/Vista/7.
Requires 3 x AA batteries.
139
$
SAVE $40
Indoor & outdoor temperature
Humidity, barometric pressure
Rainfall, ambient light, UV index
Micron® 80W Digital Soldering Station
An excellent multi purpose soldering iron for service
technicians, schools, engineers, R&D, production
work etc. Japanese ceramic heating element for long
life. 200° to 480°C. 0.8mm tip.
Slimline handle
Wind speed & direction
Burn resistant lead
All metal case
66
$
S 8742
100W Laptop Power Supply
Old power supply cactus? No problem! Fitted
with dual USB outputs. Includes mains lead &
8 tips to suit most laptops. Selectable voltages
(15-24VDC), max 6A/100W.
Opus One® 2 x 100W Stereo AM/FM Receiver
A 2691A
Great for
mechanics,
plumbers and
installers
SAVE $50
325
Expand your home audio system to the study or entertainment area.
Features five stereo RCA inputs, front panel input for iPod, in-built AM/FM
tuner and A/B speaker selection. Includes remote. Size: 430x283x80mm.
45
$
199
$
S 8861
M 8992
Key Features
Digital SD & analog tuner
Netbook Power Supply
Ideal replacement for lost/broken supplies.
Fitted with USB output. Includes 6 tips &
mains lead. 12-20VDC, max 5.4A/75W.
M 8623A
USB stick recording
TV for the Car, Caravan or Boat With HD Tuner.
This new 7” wide format LCD features in-built HD tuner to receive all the latest Freeview
channels. USB port is provided for PVR recording of shows. Powered by a internal
rechargeable battery, mains plugpack or car accessory socket. Easy to install.
NEW!
9
$ .95
Handy Car USB Adaptor
Buy two
Stay charged up on the road! Max
for $16
output 2A. Suits iPads iPhones etc.
Buy two
for $20
M 8892
NEW!
12
$
.95
Dual USB Mains Adaptor
With pass through 240V socket so you don’t
lose an outlet! Great for keeping your phone,
tablet or MP3 player charged up.
76 Silicon Chip
Sunwave®
Compact Multi
Device Remote
SAVE $20
79
34
A 0983
ONE-STOP ELECTRONICS SHOP
45
$
D 5507
Great for backups!
USB 3.0 Desktop Hard Drive Dock
The easy way to move data from one drive to another.
Suits 2.5” or 3.5” SATA hard drives. Includes power
supply, USB3.0 lead & PC backup software.
Q 1264
49
$
Fine Tune Your
Sound System
SAVE 22%
$
...with this handheld inspection camera & 2.4” LCD
monitor. Great for accessing difficult locations such
as wall cavities, ceiling spaces, pipework & industrial
machinery. Requires 4xAA batteries for camera.
Includes carry case.
SAVE 18%
$
Replaces all the most
commonly used
functions on your
current remotes.
• Powerful ‘point and
learn’ mode
• Combines 6 remotes
into 1 • Dimensions:
125 x 55 x 18mm
• Requires 2 x AAA
batteries.
See Inside Walls, Pipes & Conduits...
SAVE 22%
MP3 & video USB/SD playback
Photo slideshows
149
$
$
SAVE $20
SAVE 22%
SAVE $20
Great
Value!
A useful tool for
high end home
theatre systems, PA
& car audio. This
SPL meter
measures up to
130dB (1.5dB
accuracy). Used
widely in the audio
industry for
ensuring sound
levels remain legal.
Includes 9V battery.
Our ‘One-Stop’ Electronic
Enthusiast Centres...
T 2172
Great Value 129pc Handyman Tool Kit
Great for tackling jobs around the house, on the car,
boat or 4WD. To buy individually these tools could set
you back over $200! Includes a massive array of tools
-hammer, pliers, allen keys, ratchet screwdriver, spirit
level, lug crimper & knife. See website for full list.
Perth WA: 174 Roe St
Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd
Auburn NSW: 15 Short
St
siliconchip.com.au
Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
PRICE
CRASH
On Quality Solar Panels
HALF PRICE!
TOP SHELF
Genius Power® Pure Sine
Wave 3 in 1 Inverters
These state of the art UPS/inverters
utilise sophisticated circuitry that
includes a battery charger, inverter, solar
regulator and automatic bypass switch
suitable for a variety of power backup
installations - plus, of course, freestanding DC to 230V AC mains power in their
own right. For uninterruptible power
(UPS) applications, they are designed to
be permanently connected to 230/240V
grid power, a solar array and battery
bank. With mains power failure the UPS
load (eg computer system, communications etc) 230V power is provided from
the battery bank via the inverter. The
control panel provides monitoring for
capacity remaining, current and voltage.
Plus adjustments for output voltage &
frequency.
SAVE $200
Huge savings
This month only
499
SAVE $200
These superb 180W 24V monocrystalline
panels will provide a typical life in excess
of 25 years! They are manufactured
under strict supervision by a German
quality control company.
The results are high efficiency
panels of impeccable quality!
Includes:
» Full 25 year output warranty.
» 5 year workmanship warranty.
» Approved by Clean Energy Council.
» VDE® IEC standard certified.
» MC-4 connection fly leads.
Worry free
remote power!
SAVE $300
899 $1299 $1699
M 8144
1600W 24V Input
M 8145
2400W 24V Input
Pure Sine Wave
1000W Continuous
Hurry, stocks
are limited
at this price!
399
$
Applications:
» UPS battery backup systems
» Remote power ‘off grid’ installations
» Mobile RV & caravan power backup
RRP
$699ea
OR 4 UP
349ea
$
N 0180
SAVE $400
$
M 8139
800W 12V Input
$
180 Watt Solar Panels
See pages 206-208 of our catalogue
for system designs for remote house
power, boats & mobile homes
These panels can be configured for 12 or 24V
battery installations, using an Australian designed
GSL® MPPT charger...
96% efficient! Incredible performance
Ideal For...
4WD’s
Campers
M 8017 12V Input
M 8018 24V Input
Service Vans
240V Mains Power Anywhere, Anytime!
Remote power
Efficient ‘pure sine wave’ design delivers pure AC power. High 3000W surge rating
for powering difficult to start loads such as microwaves, computers and televisions.
1000W continuous. Size: 405 x 320 x 125mm.
SAVE 20%
SAVE $54
$
$
149
215
M 8010
Pure sine
wave
Pure AC Power From
Your Car Battery
Compact German engineered 150W
inverter - provides mains power anywhere, anytime! Delivers pure AC
power to difficult loads, such as laptops, switchmode devices & game
consoles. Includes USB output for
charging a phone/MP3 player. 12V
input, 150W continuous, 300W surge
rated. Size: 200 x 115 x 36mm.
siliconchip.com.au
Pure sine
wave
M 8012
High Power Compact
Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Ideal For 4WD’s & Caravans!
Pure sine wave 12V inverter with high
1000W surge rating suitable for
powering difficult loads, including
switchmode power supplies. Chassis
may be mounted under the car seat.
Dual power outlets. 300W rated.
Size: 225 x 242 x 80mm.
SAVE $16
210
$
N 2030 30A
N 2028 12A
SAVE $31
299
$
GSL® MPPT Programmable
Solar Regulator
Increase bulk charge current from a solar panel
by more than 20%! Precision charging modes and
reduced noise provides major efficiency
advantages over a conventional regulator. Simple
3 wire connection. Auto select for 12V & 24V
systems. Offers dawn to dusk load switching, low
voltage disconnect, remote alarm and
programming capability. 12A rated.
35x75x100mm.
N 2036 60A
SAVE $36
399
$
High Current GSL® MPPT Solar Chargers
Offering easy 4 wire in-line connection these high efficiency
solar regulators can be used with 12V, 24V or 48V solar
systems. The MPPT circuitry employed offers up to 20%
increased panel efficiency - boosting the amount of power you
can get from the sun! The absorption & float charge regime
used ensures maximum battery life and performance. Suits
vented or sealed lead acid batteries. See our website for full
installation guide.
2 Volt 200Ah
SLA Batteries
Home & Business
Solar Guide
Used in banks for remote
power systems. Link
terminals provided with each
battery. Premium Henda
brand provides long life &
high performance.
SAVE $50
SA5059 300mm battery
$
bank link lead $14.95ea.
A must have book for anyone
wanting to create their own
remote power solar system for
home or business. Collyn
Rivers is Australia’s leading
solar expert and
provides expert tips on ‘getting
it right every time’.
Express Order
Hotlines:
179
ea
S 5059
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
Programmable
models also available
VALUE!
47.50
$
B 2330
April 2012 77
ONE-STOP ELECTRONICS SHOP
TOP VALUE TEST GEAR
Get more test equipment for your dollar...
Multimeters Galore - SAVE 20%
NEW!
Specifications
Bandwidth
Sample Rate
Q 0203
1GSa/s or 500MSa/s
Auto measure
32 parameters
Math functions
+, - , multiply, FFT
Ports
NEW!
1149
$
Ultra compact. 75% smaller
than the old CRT versions!
289
$
100MHz
USB & RS-232C
Display
7” TFT 480x230px
Dimensions
399Wx149Hx110D
Weight
2.4kg
Atten® 100MHz R&D Digital Storage Oscilloscope
Perfect for those in R&D, product development or service of complex electronic equipment. Features 2 channels with real-time
sampling modes of 500MS/s or 1GSa/s. The 64K colour 7” TFT display screen can be set up to simultaneously display the
waveform plus indicate the measured wave voltage, peak to peak plus RMS, frequency, duty cycle etc. Using the USB lead and
software supplied realtime adjustments can be made of the scope. Any stored data or settings can be either saved to a USB stick
or downloaded to a PC. If connected to a PictBridgeTM printer, screenshots can be printed without a PC.
Q 1198
2 Year
Warranty!
Precision True RMS USB
Datalogger Multimeter
Ideal for use in R&D engineering or service centres. Accurate to 0.05% with a
50,000 count resolution for testing digital devices. Displays measured value,
bar graph, time/date, min & max readings. 18,000 points can be recorded and
stored in memory reviewable on screen
or via PC. Includes carry case, software,
test probes & thermocouple.
SAVE $26
99
$
SAVE 22%
155
$
Professional ‘Contact
Free’ Digital Thermometer
Q 1536
Professional 2.7GHz Frequency Counter
High accuracy counter covering a range of 10Hz to 2.7GHz in two
ranges; 10Hz to 100MHz and 100MHz to 2.7GHz. Ideal for servicing
and calibrating RF equipment, radio mics, CB’s & transceivers. High
input sensitivity. Period, frequency, pulse count (totalise) functions.
x20 input
Test Wiring Polarity
& Continuity In A FLASH!
Allows a single user to quickly identify two
wires, even when the wire ends are located
in different rooms. Makes testing a breeze,
even on long cable runs and wiring
harnesses. Includes 9V battery.
SAVE 40%
24
Q 1284
$
Q 2024A
55
$
With twin laser guided beam for pin
point accuracy! Lightweight, “point
and shoot” temperature measurement. Provides accurate temperature
readings from a distance. Ideal for
measurement in dangerous places,
or when equipment is operating.
Incredible accuracy from -35°C to
800°C. 12:1 optical resolution.
300ms response. 1% accuracy.
44
$
Q 1079
SAVE 20%
70
$
Jumbo Display
28 Range DMM
USB Autoranging
Datalogger
Includes temperature probe at no
extra cost! Excellent for the
service technicians or enthusiast.
• Massive 20A rating • AC/DC
to 1000V • Auto power off
• Temperature • Frequency
• Data hold
A complete datalogger with
software suite allowing analysis
of circuit operation over time.
Features: • Autoranging with
override • Data hold • Duty
cycle • AC/DC current to 10A
• Includes temp probe.
Top
Value!
Q 1270
AC & DC
Testing!
Great for
lighting
& CCTV
installation
Precision
Impedance Meter
Measure Light Levels Instantly!
Checking light levels is an essential part of selecting
the right CCTV camera. High precision sensor
provides instant, accurate lux readings. Includes
protective case.
Q 0964
SAVE 28%
50
$
SAVE $50
199
$
Q 2005
Q 3002
SAVE 24%
15
$
Detect Lethal AC Voltages Without Contact
Non-contact AC detector with LED light. Essential for working with AC
wiring. Lights up when near any AC source (100-600V <at> 50-60Hz).
Fits right in your pocket.
78 Silicon Chip
SAVE 20%
SAVE 25%
Top value for
installers!
Measures transformer &
speaker impedance
accurately and easily.
Applies a test tone to any
speaker or transformer
circuit. Suitable for both 4-8
ohm & 100V line systems.
Requires 6 x AA batteries.
Q 1067
ONE-STOP ELECTRONICS SHOP
Get an accurate
measurement in
seconds!
This laser tape measure
provides an instant ‘one
touch’ measurement - up
to 30m. Excellent accuracy down to just ±3mm.
Plus calculation modes
such as add, subtract,
pythagorean, square &
cubic measurements.
NEW!
T 2251
199
$
Q 0966
SAVE $30
99
$
AC Clamp & Digital
Multimeter Combo
600A True RMS
AC/DC Clamp Meter
Slimline design combines both
digital multimeter and an 400A AC
clampmeter into one unit. Superb
ease of use makes it perfect for
working on live equipment. An
essential for high voltage
technicians, electrical trades etc.
Features: • Capacitance
• Temperature • Resistance
• 400A AC • DC V to 600V
Accurately measures AC or DC
current to a MASSIVE 600A! A
professional unit with advanced
features such as true RMS AC
measurement, resistance, temperature, capacitance, zero &
hold functions - All supplied
with carry case & test leads.
Max input 600V.
Our ‘One-Stop’ Electronic
Enthusiast Centres...
Perth WA: 174 Roe St
Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd
Auburn NSW: 15 Shortsiliconchip.com.au
St
Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
DIY PROJECTS
Resellers:
Save $$$ and build it yourself!
Compact
low noise
& distortion
design
NEW!
NEW!
NEW KIT!
NEW KIT!
59.95
$
NEW KIT!
K 5508
K 6125
45
$
K 9552
.95
49.95
$
Low Distortion Headphone Amp Kit
Versatimer Switch Kit
(SC May ‘11) Why put up with garbage sound
from your portable music player? This compact
device not only boosts the volume output of
your device, but significantly improves fidelity lowering distortion & noise. Provides up to
200hrs use from 2xAA batteries (not included)
Mini-Maximite BASIC
Embedded Module Kit
(SC June ‘11) Drives a 12V latching
relay for switching applications requiring a low current drain. Also provides a
battery discharge feature for use with
SLA batteries. In-built timer (1s-5hrs)
can be triggered from external contacts.
(SC November ‘11) The ‘little brother’ of the
Maximite kit. Utilising identical software it is
designed as an intelligent controller for embedding into larger systems. Features 20 I/O pins,
128K RAM, VGA/composite out, USB2.0 & keyboard interfaces. All from one low cost IC!
SAVE 12%
K 5136
SAVE 20%
39
$
2x20W 12V Amplifier Kit
(SC May ‘10) This compact stereo amp
module puts out 2x20W RMS into 4Ω and is
12V powered (SLA battery or plugpack). Bass
& treble controls. Distortion typically <0.03%.
K6026
SAVE 15%
75
$
42
K 6120
Smart Fan Controller Kit
(SC July ‘10). This compact module
regulates the speed of up to eight 12V
fans. Measures up to 4 temperature
points & smoothly controls fan speed.
May be monitored using PC software.
Ideal for computers, greenhouses,
home breweries, amp cooling etc.
K 1143
GPS Boat Computer Kit
(SC October ‘10) Tells you exactly where you
are - never get lost at sea again. Also shows
speed and heading - plus it will navigate you
back home - or to that secret fishing spot! It
even displays fuel consumption, along with a
host of other vital information.
K 6210
SAVE 30%
62
$
K 5547
(SC March ‘10). A handy security solution for
sheds, boats, caravans and remote buildings.
Coupled with an N 0700 solar panel this alarm
system may be used with up to 3 sensors (eg:
reed switch/pressure mat). Includes PIR
movement sensor & siren.
N 0700 5W solar panel: $29.95
S 5075B 1.3Ah SLA battery: $19.95
175
$
Works with regular
headphones.
SAVE 15%
Solar Powered Alarm Kit
SAVE 10%
$
33
$
Improve Your Hearing
Without Expensive Aids!
Great for remote
monitoring and
control systems
Web Server In A Box (WIB) Kit
(SC Sept ‘10) Hearing Loop Receiver
Kit. Picks up signals from a hearing
loop (or T-coil), found in PA systems at
places of worship and function centres.
It even works with home made hearing
loops. Requires 9V battery.
(SC Nov ‘09) Host and update your own website without the need for a computer! This compact box houses a chip based server that may
be accessed anywhere in the world - even from
a mobile phone. Beyond serving web pages, it
also monitors & logs 4 analog inputs, or control
4 digital outputs.
SAVE 29%
60
Measures to
65,000 RPM
$
K 2510
A dream for model
rail enthusiasts!
SAVE $10
SAVE $56
K 6015
79
$
119
$
Rail Power Controller Kit
(SC Sep-Oct ‘08) A great value model railway
controller offering remote control, pulse power
for realistic low speed train movement, speed
bargraph & adjustable braking inertia. 16-17V
output up to 6A. A 1012 remote to suit $19.95.
240V operation.
K 2920
LED Strobe & Tachometer Kit
(SC August ‘08) Allows you to measure
the RPM of fans, shafts, propellers or
anything that rotates! Readout displays
RPM and frequency. 1RPM resolution.
Adjustable flash period & divider options.
Requires 12VDC power.
Cut Office Power Consumption
USB Mains Sensing Switch Kit.
(SC January ‘09) Monitors your PC’s USB port
and automatically turns all your gear on and off
as required. No need to crawl under the desk to
disconnect devices!
B 0091
Sale Ends April 30th 2012
Altronics One-Stop Electronic Shops Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
Mail
Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
siliconchip.com.au
© Altronics 2012. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Bunbury
ML Communications (08) 9721 9800
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Esperance Communications (08) 9071 3344
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ML Communications (08) 9965 7555
VICTORIA
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Electronic Connections (03) 9768 9420
Benalla
Leading Edge Electronics (03) 5762 2710
Castlemaine
Top End Technology (03) 5472 1700
Clayton
Rockby Electronics (03) 9562 8559
Cranbourne
Bourne Electronics (03) 5996 2755
Croydon
Truscott's Electronic World (03) 9723 3860
Geelong
Music Workshop (03) 5221 5844
Healesville
Amazon DVDs Healesville (03) 5962 2763
Highett`
AV2PC (03) 9555 2545
Leongatha
Gardner Electronics (03) 5662 3891
Melton
Melton Electronics & Comms. (03) 9743 1233
Nunawading
Semtronics (03) 9873 3555
Pakenham
Get Smart Hifi (03) 5941 4886
Preston
Preston Electronics (03) 9484 0191
San Remo Shorelec Electrical Wholesalers (03) 5678 5361
Somerville
AV2PC (03) 5978 0007
Stawell
David O Jones Mitre 10 (03) 5358 1205
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Multicomm IT & Comms. (03) 5561 5111
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Exact Computers & Home Ent. (02) 6056 5746
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Ultra Music (07) 4128 2037
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Access Electronics (07) 4922 1058
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April 2012 79
Maximite
Q&A, etc
Thousands
of Maximites
have now been built
and have worked perfectly
the first time. The design
of the Maximite has proved
to be remarkably robust, so
if you have a problem with one
you have just built, it most probably will be
something specific to your Maximite and not
a fatal design fault or software issue. However, there are some
common problems that constructors do experience so we asked
the designer, Geoff Graham to come up with the six most common....
1:
The power LED does not light and the Maximite draws very little current (normal consumption is 125mA).
Capacitor C5 (in the Maximite) or C3 (in the mini Maximite) is nearly always responsible. It must be a low ESR
Tantalum or ceramic capacitor (NOT aluminium electrolytic) since the PIC32 is very sensitive to its characteristics. If you suspect C5, try replacing or paralleling it with a higher value and/or a higher working voltage (both
of these will improve the ESR). The best solution is to solder a surface-mount 10µF ceramic capacitor with Y5V
dielectric (available from au.element14.com) between the solder pads for C5 (or C3). The kits from Altronics or
Jaycar should not have this problem but it is worth a try.
2:
Using USB power as the power source is the cause of many problems with varied symptoms. Many computers
or hubs cannot supply clean power so before you try anything else, plug an external 9V to 12V power pack into
your Maximite and test it.
3:
Errors reading or writing to the SD card. This has proved to be an on-going issue with about 5% of cards and
I have not got to the bottom of why some work in the Maximite and others do not. Some cards have buggy
controller logic when used in SPI mode and this may be the reason. The only solution is to try a few different
cards. A list of cards that are known to work is available at duinomite.com/Maximite-control
4:
The Maximite resets when you plug in an SD card (this is rare). This is due to the sudden load of the SD card
causing a glitch on the 3.3V supply rail. The solution is to use a different SD card or solder a 22µF low ESR
Tantalum capacitor across the supply rails very close to the SD card connector pins.
80 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
5:
You get an error when writing to the internal flash drive A. This is caused by the 3.3V supply rail to the PIC32
being too low. When writing to the flash memory the supply to the chip must be at least 2.9V.
6:
You think that you have accidentally damaged the chip or that it seems to be running too hot. Don’t slash your
wrists at this point (you can leave that till much later). The chip is very tough and your problem is most likely
to be somewhere else. Also, the PIC32 does run hot in normal operation (it has a lot of work to do).
If you are really convinced that your chip is dead you can purchase a programmed PIC32 replacement from
SILICON CHIP for $15 plus $10 for postage & packing.
If you want to ask more questions there is a good community forum at:
http://www.thebackshed.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=16
And some recent questions and answers on the Maximite:
Q1:
Is it possible to program the Maximite computer
in C instead of Basic? I really want to get into this
unit but am not looking forward to dealing with Basic script.
A:
Q2:
A:
I want to use the Maximite with my laptop instead
of the monitor and keyboard. The Maximite web
site suggested using TerraTerm as the emulator. I downloaded
it but it does not support USB and seems like a very old program. Is there a way to do this.
The whole firmware is written in C including MMBasic.
It would be very easy to replace the MMBasic part
your own program written in C. You would still have access to
the video and keyboard routines - so it will give you just what
you want. The source code is available from the SILICON CHIP
website or at http://geoffg.net/Maximite.html
TerraTerm works fine. Follow the instructions included
with the SILICON CHIP Serial Port Driver. It uses PuTTY
as an example but TerraTerm works just as well.
am interested in utilising the Maximite project to
Q3: Imake
a curve tracer for vacuum tubes (Yes, big hot A:
valves). I would be interested in how one could interface high
voltages up to 1000V DC to the analog inputs, as well as display
the results on a computer screen. I have the actual curve tracer
circuit ideas sketched out but not the Maximite interfacing.
The third article on the Maximite (May 2011) describes
how to scale the input voltage using a couple of resistors to measure higher voltage. You would need to
be careful in selecting the resistors for the high voltage but
the principle of scaling the input voltage is the same and will
apply to your project.
a Macintosh. How can I update MMBASIC
Q4: Ionhave
my Maximite as your software is Windows only? A:
This program (http://code.google.com/p/mphidflash/) will work with Macintosh and Linux computers.
Instructions for using it are included with the latest updates
for MMBASIC.
have been told that your articles on the Maximite
Q5: Iexplain
A:
how to connect to the Maximite via the USB
port on a PC. Apparently the Maximite is seen as a
virtual serial port by the bigger computer and to do this you
need a Terminal program such as Putty. This program is very
complicated and mainly refers to connections to the internet
via a server. I have not been able to use it to get a connection to the Maximite via my HP Pavilion DY 6000 laptop using
Windows XP. Can you tell me the steps to use with a Terminal
program to get the link.
Haven’t seen the original Maximite articles?
Don’t know what we are talking about?
Can’t work out what all the excitement is?
Discover Maximite for yourself: back issues
containing the Maximite (March, April and May
2011) and the MiniMaximite (November 2011) are
available from SILICON CHIP for $12.00 each (inc
p&p) – while stocks last!
The procedure for connecting to the Maximite using
the serial port is explained at the bottom of the PDF
file “Installing the USB Serial Port Device Driver” which is
included in the Silicon_Chip_USB_Serial_Port_Driver.zip.
To summarise:
First, determine which COM port the Maximite has been
assigned to. Go to the start menu, control panel, system,
hardware, device manager. Scroll down and click the “+”
next to “Ports (COM & LPT)”. You should get a list of ports.
Determine which is the one for the Maximite. It is probably
the highest numbered COM port.
Then run PuTTY. Click on the “Serial” option (just below “Port”
in the upper-right corner). Change the COM port number to
match the one you noted earlier, then click on the “Open”
button at the bottom. You should then receive a message
that you are connected to the Maximite and you can then
type commands.
If you want to send and receive files from the Maximite
using xmodem then you may need to use TerraTerm instead.
The procedure will be similar.
SC
On Geoff Graham’s website (http://geoffg.net) there is a library of programs for the Maximite that you can download. Two of
them (GRAPH.BAS and BATTERY2.BAS) contain routines to draw graphs and if you examine these you will see how easy it is.
siliconchip.com.au
April
pril 2012 81
Vintage Radio
By Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Philips 196A 4 -Valve AC/
Battery Portable Receiver
of the time. It measures 280mm long
x 180mm high x 115mm deep and
weighs around 3kg without batteries.
Note that the case isn’t a perfect rectangle, so these are the greatest dimensions in any direction. And although
similar in style, the later Philips 199
transistor model used a case that was
slightly smaller and had pushbutton
controls along the top.
The 196A valve portable has just
three controls: a partly-recessed volume control at top left, a hand-span
dial on the front panel and a small
lever located under the lefthand end of
the carrying strap. This lever controls
a 3-position switch which switches
the set on or off and selects between
battery and AC operation.
This power switch isn’t easy to see
and appears to be something of an
“add-on”. Philips certainly could have
done a much better job when it came
to positioning this control.
Circuit details
Designated the 196A, this interesting little
portable radio from Philips uses valves
and can be run from either batteries or
mains power. It was designed as a lowcost set but is still quite a good performer.
T
HE PHILIPS 196A was produced
during the late 1950s and early
1960s, a time when many manufacturers were already designing and building transistor portables. However,
many customers were reluctant to buy
the transistor radios of the era, as their
performance at that early stage was far
from inspiring.
To overcome this reluctance, some
manufacturers built both valve and
transistor receivers in nearly identical cases. This allowed customers to
choose the type of set that best suited
82 Silicon Chip
their needs and also gave them time
to adjust to the changeover to fullytransistorised sets.
The 196A was one such set. It’s a
relatively small, portable valve receiver and was manufactured right at
the end of the valve era.
As can be seen from the photos,
the case is a little unusual. According to the supplied information (on
the inside of the set), it’s made from
sandstone-coloured, rippled leatherette over stiff cardboard sheets, a
style that was used for many portables
The 196A’s circuit is quite conventional. The front-end employs a
loop-stick ferrite rod antenna and this
forms a tuned circuit with one gang of
the tuning capacitor. The signal is then
coupled to the grid of a 1R5 pentagrid
converter valve.
The local oscillator, which is also
part of the 1R5, operates 455kHz higher than the signal frequency. The two
signals are then mixed together and
the resulting 455kHz signal fed via a
double-tuned intermediate frequency
(IF) transformer to a 1T4 IF amplifier
pentode (the other signals from the
mixer are rejected). From there, the
amplified signal is fed via another
double-tuned IF transformer to the
detector/AGC diode in a 1S5 valve.
The recovered audio at the detector
is then fed via the volume control to
the pentode section of the 1S5 and
following that to a 3V4 audio output
stage. A speaker transformer in the
plate circuit of the 3V4 couples the
audio from the high-impedance plate
siliconchip.com.au
circuit to the low-impedance (3.5Ω)
100mm (4-inch) loudspeaker.
In addition, the receiver employs a
simple AGC system. The AGC voltage
is derived from the only diode in the
1S5 and this is applied to the 1R5 in
the front end. No AGC is applied to
the 1T4 IF amplifier.
Because this receiver works on
both battery and AC power, the valve
filaments are wired in series. The
current drain through them is up to
50mA at 6.5-7.5V on either batteries
or AC mains.
The mains transformer has two
windings: a tapped mains input and
a secondary producing around 130V.
A selenium half-wave rectifier is used
to produce an HT voltage of nominally
90V at 10-13mA to the valve plates
and 7.5V for the filaments via dropping resistors. This may not be very
efficient but it ensures good filtering
of the filament voltage (efficiently
filtered low-voltage power supplies
didn’t become available until transistors became common).
The batteries are relatively small (to
fit inside the case), so a life of around
100 hours would be expected. It uses
a 490P 90V battery for the HT and a
717 battery that supplies 7.5V.
Cleaning & repairing the case
A comprehensive set of instructions on removing the chassis from
the cabinet is pasted inside the rear
cover (see photo). In fact, it’s one of
the most comprehensive I have seen,
so full marks to Philips for this.
The set featured here had obviously
had a hard life up until the time it was
pensioned off. Some of the trim on the
case had come loose and there were
(and still are) several paint marks on
it as well. It was also quite grimy on
the outside.
Having removed the chassis, I removed the plastic grille from inside
the escutcheon, by levering it away
from the case with a broad-bladed
screwdriver (it had been attached
with contact adhesive). That done, I
set about giving it a thorough clean.
I usually place plastic and Bakelite
cabinets in a laundry tub with warm
soapy water and scrub them clean with
a nail brush. However, that’s not possible with a thick cardboard-lined case,
as water will damage the cardboard.
Instead, I simply dampen the outside of the case with soapy water and
then scrub it clean. With continued
siliconchip.com.au
This is the view inside the set without the bottom chassis cover in place. The
label attached to the rear cover details the chassis removal procedure. It
also shows the valve locations, the alignment points and the battery details.
scrubbing, the cabinets usually come
up looking quite good, just as it did
in this case. The plastic grille and
the volume control knob were then
cleaned by immersing them in soapy
water and scrubbing them with a nail
brush. These parts, along with the case,
were then placed in the sun to dry.
Once the cabinet had dried, I tried
lightly scrubbing the paint splashes
with some acetone and while that
helped remove some of the paint, I
also managed to go through the original paintwork in one or two places.
It’s no big deal and I will try touching up these areas with paint when I
have time.
Having cleaned the cabinet, I
realigned the trims around the plastic
grill, filled the gaps with contact adhesive and clamped the trims in place.
This took quite some time, as I had to
allow the adhesive to set in each spot
where it was applied, before moving
onto the next piece.
Finally, the two covers that go over
the ends of the handle were quite dull
and grimy. I rubbed automotive cut
and polish on them and used a small
screwdriver to push the polishing
cloth into the grooves in the covers to
achieve an excellent result.
Overhauling the electronics
The inside of the set was quite clean
apart from some loose dust on various
components. Unlike many other sets
of this era, there was no sign of any
rust or other corrosion.
As a result, a quick dust-out with a
12mm paint brush was all that was required to clean the circuit components
and the chassis.
Having got rid of the dust, it was
April 2012 83
VR1 2k
3V4
1R5
1S5
1T4
+7.5V
7
400 F
10V
T1
230V
AC
D1*
1N4004
A
130V
AC
K
R1*
135
5
1
270
390
7
1
7
1
7
1
40 F
+109V
1 .6k
50 F
150V
* 1N4004 DIODE & 135 RESISTOR FITTED
IN PLACE OF SELENIUM RECTIFIER BLOCK
+90V HT
40 F
150V
NOTE: CIRCUIT DOES NOT SHOW
AC/BATTERY SWITCHING OR
FILAMENT RF BYPASS CAPACITORS
Fig.1: a simplified circuit of the power supply, showing how the 90V HT
rail and the filament supply rail are derived. The original selenium block
rectifier has been replaced by a 1N4004 silicon diode and a 135Ω resistor.
now time to overhaul the electronics. I began by using a high-voltage
insulation tester to check for leakage
between the primary of the mains
transformer and both the chassis and
the secondary winding. There was
no discernible leakage, even with the
tester set to 1000V.
That done, I checked the continuity
of all the battery valve filaments using
a DMM and found that they were all
intact. These filaments are quite delicate so care is needed to ensure that the
correct filament voltages are applied.
As stated above, this set uses a halfwave selenium rectifier block and this
is bolted to the chassis. They are not
very efficient and do get quite hot. In
addition, their impedance tends to go
high, which lowers the loaded output
voltage considerably.
As a result, I applied mains power
to the set and checked to see whether
The selenium rectifier is shown
here at left, together with the diode
that replaced it.
84 Silicon Chip
the output voltages from the power
supply were indeed around 7.5V and
90V. This showed that the filament
voltage was around 3.5V, while the
high tension (HT) was just 65V. These
readings were both much too low and
from experience, it pointed to the selenium rectifier being faulty.
I decided to leave the existing
rectifier block in place and connect a
1N4004 diode in series with a 3.3kΩ
resistor across it. This gave slightly
higher voltages out of the power supply but they were still too low so I
progressively reduced the 3.3kΩ resistor in series with the diode until I got
the correct voltages.
Unfortunately, while I was wiring
these parts in place, one of the lugs
broke away from the selenium rectifier block. As a result, it was removed
and a small tagstrip fitted in its place,
with the diode and resistor wired to it.
The series resistor value came down to
135Ω before I got the correct voltages
for the filaments and plate supplies (ie,
7.5V and 90V). In practice, this 135Ω
resistor was made up of using a 180Ω
5W wirewound resistor and a parallel
470Ω 1W carbon resistor.
Fitting a 135Ω resistor in series with
the diode means that the circuit more
closely mimics the characteristics of
a selenium rectifier.
Keep in mind that a 1N4004 diode
has a peak inverse voltage (PIV) rating
of 400V volts. With a 130V secondary
transformer voltage, the peak voltage
applied to the 1N4004 is around 130
x 2.8 = 364V. I usually take the transformer voltage and multiply it by three
to give me the PIV plus a small margin
for spikes on the power supply line but
if in doubt, always use a diode with a
higher PIV rating.
Because the voltages are not that
high in battery sets, I decided to run
the set for a short time to see whether I
could get it to operate before replacing
any leaky paper capacitors. There was
no output but touching the volume
control produced a “blurt” from the
speaker. I then wriggled the valves in
their sockets and this produced some
loud crackles.
As a result, I switched the set off,
removed the valves and sprayed each
socket with Inox (a spray lubricant,
cleaner). I then reinserted the valves,
slightly rocking them from side-to-side
as I did so to clean any corrosion off
the pins. With power reapplied, the
set then worked but the audio output
sounded quite unpleasant.
At that stage, I quickly switched the
set off again. It was important to keep
this test short, to ensure that no damage to the valves occurred.
Having proved that it worked (in a
fashion), it was now time to replace
any leaky paper capacitors that might
affect the set’s operation. In the end, I
replaced all these capacitors except for
a 100nF low-tension RF bypass and a
4.7nF top-cut filter on the plate of the
3V4. The capacitors that were removed
had between 1.5MΩ and 7MΩ of leakage resistance, so it was no wonder that
the audio was distorted.
This receiver is generally quite good
to work on but sometimes you have to
dig down through up to three layers
of components to get at the parts. As
a result, it can take quite some time to
replace or test some components – not
that you have to do that often.
Mains power lead
The mains power lead is a 2-wire
(figure-8) type with a moulded 2-pin
mains plug and a 2-pin socket that
plugs into the side of the receiver. It
isn’t practical to replace the lead with a
3-core lead and the set is largely double
insulated anyway. In fact, if the power
switch had a plastic recessed type
knob, it would probably comply with
the latest electrical safety standards.
In the meantime, the set can be used
with a 1:1 (230V-to-230V) isolation
transformer.
Unlike this set, some sets of the era
were designed to run from both AC
and DC mains supplies (ie, 200-250V
AC/DC) and so didn’t use a power
siliconchip.com.au
transformer. These particular sets
were “hot chassis” (ie, the chassis and
various components operated at mains
voltages) so extreme care was needed
in servicing them, otherwise electrocution was a distinct possibility.
Power supply
Fig.1 shows a simplified circuit of
the power supply used in the Philips
196A. The output from the rectifier
and its series 135Ω resistor is filtered
using a 50µF electrolytic capacitor
and is then fed via a 1.6kΩ resistor
to provide the 90V HT supply rail.
This rail is further filtered using 40µF
electrolytic capacitor.
By contrast, the filaments are fed
from the 109V rail via an adjustable
2kΩ wirewound resistor (set at 1.95kΩ
ohms in this set) which reduces the
voltage to 7.5V at 50mA. A 400µF
electrolytic capacitor filters the filament voltage which is then applied to
the 3V4. It’s then filtered using another
40µF electrolytic capacitor before being fed to the filaments of the remaining valves which are in more critical
sections of the receiver.
Typically, the valve filaments were
wired in series so that the total filament
current remained at 50mA. This applied whether four or five valves were
used, with a 7.5V filament supply used
for a 4-valve set and a 9V supply for a
5-valve receiver.
In addition, the filament circuit
has a 270Ω resistor across one half
of the 3V4’s filament (pin 1 to pin 5),
with a 390Ω resistor then connected
to chassis. For those unfamiliar with
series-connected filament circuits,
this may appear to be a rather strange
arrangement.
The first thing to realise here is that
the plate and screen currents of a filament valve go through the filament to
earth, thereby increasing the filament
current by the sum of these two currents. As a result, the 270Ω resistor is
included across half the filament of
the 3V4 so that the currents flowing
through both sections are the same.
The 3V4, which is the audio output
valve, draws around 7-9mA and so this
extra current is “bled” to earth (chassis) via the 390Ω resistor, thus keeping
the current through the filaments of
the 1R5, 1T4 and 1S5 valves close to
50mA. Without this bleed resistor, the
current through these filaments could
go as high as 60mA.
As a result, the voltage across each
siliconchip.com.au
The top of the chassis is neatly laid out, with all parts
readily accessible. The rotary switch at right provides on/
off switching and selects between battery and mains power.
By contrast with the top side, many of the parts under the chassis are
difficult to access. This view shows the chassis after restoration, with all
but two of the paper capacitors replaced.
filament is kept close to the required
1.5V.
Because these remaining valves
have a current drain of just 1-2mA,
it’s not usually considered necessary
to balance the current through their
filaments (and thus the voltage across
them), although some designs do include this.
During the course of my checks, I
found that the 1R5’s filament voltage
was around 1.65V, which is much too
high for the valve to have a long life.
The reason was simple enough – the
390Ω resistor had been incorrectly
wired to pin 1 of the 1R5 instead of pin
7. Once this had been corrected, the
filament voltage came down to the correct 1.5V. Manufacturers in those days
did make wiring mistakes. Sometimes
they are obvious, sometimes not.
There is also one potentially serious problem with this type of power
supply. If a valve filament goes open
circuit, the voltage at the filament feed
point (7.5V in this set) will quickly
rise to well over 100V. As a result,
the 400µF 10V electrolytic capacitor
across this rail will soon succumb and
could even explode.
Alignment
Having corrected the filament supply wiring error, the next step was to
check the alignment.
I began by tweaking the 455kHz
IF transformers for maximum audio
output and found that they were
quite close to their correct settings. I
then checked the oscillator setting by
tuning from one end of the band to
the other and found that it was close
April 2012 85
This view inside the restored Philips 196A receiver shows the chassis with
the bottom cover in place. The 7.5V and 90V batteries fit into the available
space beneath this cover.
enough to not warrant adjustment.
The next step was to slide the tuned
coil along the ferrite rod antenna to
tweak the performance at the lowfrequency end of the dial. Once again,
very little adjustment was needed. I
then tuned the set to around 1500kHz
and adjusted the antenna tuned circuit
trimmer capacitor. It too was close to
its optimum setting.
Finally, I resealed the adjustments
by re-melting the original sealing wax
using a soldering iron.
The set now turned in an excellent
performance, especially considering
that it only has four valves. And with
an external antenna and earth connected, the stations romped home.
An intermittent problem
Unfortunately, the set still had a
problem. Although it generally worked
quite well, it would also occasionally
go completely dead. And to make matter worse, the fault was intermittent.
I checked the voltages at various
point around the circuit when it was
dead and also when it was working and
they were all correct in both situations.
I could also get a healthy blurt from
the speaker if I touched the top of the
volume control, which indicated that
the audio section was working.
I then checked the front-end of the
receiver and although it appeared that
the 1R5 was oscillating, it wasn’t producing any 455kHz output according
to my tuned signal tracer.
Suspecting a faulty valve, I replaced
both the 1R5 and the 1T4 but that
didn’t cure the problem and subsequent tests proved that they were OK.
I then found that when I wriggled
these valves around in their sockets,
Many of the parts
under the chassis are
“buried” two or three
layers down, which
can make replacement
difficult and timeconsuming.
86 Silicon Chip
the set would come good. As a result, I
re-cleaned the contacts as it appeared
that there may have still been some
corrosion on either the valve pins or
the socket pins.
Once that was done, the set worked
quite well for some time but then
suddenly went dead again. This time,
there was no blurt from the speaker
when I touched the volume control,
so the fault lay in the audio circuitry.
Using a signal tracer, I quickly determined that the receiver was working
right up to the output of the speaker
transformer. I then checked the speaker
and it also tested OK, with around 3Ω
of resistance across the voice coil. This
was rather puzzling as the fault had to
be here somewhere, so I re-tested the
voice coil a few times and found that
it had intermittent continuity.
Eventually, I traced the fault to the
spot where the flexible wire joins to
the voice coil winding on the speaker
cone. Unfortunately I couldn’t repair
it, so a new speaker had to be fitted.
Removing the speaker is straightforward. The first step is to disconnect
the wiring to it, after which the front
panel is separated from the chassis by
removing four screws. It’s then just a
matter of undoing the four screws that
hold the 100mm speaker in position
and sliding it out.
I didn’t have a Rola speaker in my
spare parts bin but another, slightly
smaller speaker which I had rescued
from old equipment did fit. And that
cured the intermittent fault once and
for all.
Summary
Although the Philips 196A is a
rather utilitarian receiver, it’s still
quite pleasant to use. It doesn’t have
the appeal of a beautifully-restored
timber cabinet receiver but it’s a somewhat unusual set that’s worth having
in any collection.
It works quite well, especially considering that it’s a battery/mains portable set with just four valves. It’s also
quite compact and the instructions
inside the case are extremely helpful
when it comes to servicing.
Finally, despite its age, there were
relatively few problems – just a dud
selenium rectifier, some dirty valve
sockets, a small wiring error and an
intermittent speaker voice coil. Fortunately, the 1R5 valve in the front
end had survived having a higher-than
normal voltage across its filament. SC
siliconchip.com.au
STIC
FANTAIDEA
GIFT UDENTS
FOR SFT ALL
O S!
AGE
THEAMATEUR SCIENTIST
An incredible CD with over 1000 classic projects
from the pages of Scientific American,
covering every field of science...
THE LATEST
VERSION 4 –
WITH EVEN
MORE
FEATURES!
Arguably THE most IMPORTANT collection
of scientific projects ever put together!
This is version 4, Super Science Fair Edition
from the pages of Scientific American.
As well as specific project material, the CDs
contain hints and tips by experienced amateur
scientists, details on building
science apparatus, a large
database of chemicals and
so much more.
ONLY
62
$
00
PLUS $10 Pack and Post
within Australia
NZ P&P: $AU12.00,
Elsewhere: $AU18.00
“A must for every science student,
science teacher, science lab . . . or simply
for those with an enquiring mind . . .”
Just a tiny selection of the incredible range of projects:
! Build a seismograph to study earthquakes ! Make soap bubbles that last for
months ! Monitor the health of local streams ! Preserve biological specimens !
Build a carbon dioxide laser ! Grow bacteria cultures safely at home ! Build a
ripple tank to study wave phenomena ! Discover how plants grow in low gravity !
Do strange experiments with sound ! Use a hot wire to study the crystal structure
of steel ! Extract and purify DNA in your kitchen !Create a laser hologram ! Study
variable stars like a pro ! Investigate vortexes in water ! Cultivate slime moulds !
Study the flight efficiency of soaring birds ! How to make an Electret ! Construct
fluid lenses ! Raise butterflies as experimental animals ! Study the physics of
spinning tops ! Build an apparatus for studying chaotic systems ! Detect metals in
air, liquids, or solids ! Photograph an ant's brain and nervous system ! Use
magnets to make fluids into solids ! Measure the metabolism of an insect . . . !
and many, many more (a thousand more, in fact!)
See the V2 review in SILICON CHIP, October 2004. . . or read on line at siliconchip.com.au
This is the ALL-NEW Version 4 . . . it’s even BETTER!
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April 2012 87
SILICON
CHIP
PARTSHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest SILICON CHIP project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re after.
Or a pre-programmed micro. Or some other hard-to-get “bit”. The chances are they are available direct from the SILICON CHIP PARTSHOP.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP has established the PARTSHOP. No, we’re not going into opposition with your normal suppliers
– this is a direct response to requests from readers who have found difficulty in obtaining specialised parts.
•
•
•
•
These boards are normally IN STOCK and ready for despatch (you don’t have to wait for them to be made!).
Even if stock runs out (eg, for high demand), in most cases there will be no longer than a two-week wait.
One low p&p charge: $10 per order, regardless of how many boards you order! (Australia only; overseas clients – email us for a postage quote).
New project boards will normally be available within days of the magazine on-sale date: no waiting!
• Our PCBs are beautifully made, very high quality fibreglass boards with pre-tinned tracks, silk screen overlays and where applicable, solder masks.
• Best of all, those boards with fancy cut-outs or edges are already cut out to the SILICON CHIP specifications – no messy blade work required!
PROJECT
PUBLISHED
CODE
Price*
PROJECT
PUBLISHED
CODE
Price*
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
JAN 1993
06112921
$25.00
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
MAR 2011
18103111
$15.00
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MAR 2011
04103111
$25.00
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
MAR 2011
01209101
$25.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981
$25.00
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
APRIL 2011 01104111
$25.00
MINIMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
APR 2001
06104011
$25.00
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
APRIL 2011 04104111
$25.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021
$10.00
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
APRIL 2011 13104111
$10.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031
$10.00
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
MAY 2011
01105111
$30.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031
$25.00
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
MAY 2011
11105111
$25.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041
$10.00
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
MAY 2011
12105111
$10.00
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041
$25.00
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
JUNE 2011
11106111
$25.00
LITTLE JIM AM TRANSMITTER
JAN 2006
06101062
$25.00
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
JUNE 2011
07106111
$25.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061
$25.00
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
JUNE 2011
19106111
$25.00
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
APRIL 2006 01104061
$25.00
USB BREAKOUT BOX
JUNE 2011
04106111
$10.00
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061
$25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
JULY 2011
01107111
$25.00
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061
$25.00
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
JULY 2011
04107111
$25.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (A) (IMPROVED)
MAR 2007
04103073
$55.00
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
JULY 2011
20107111-4 $80 per set
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
MAR 2007
04103072
$30.00
VOX
JULY 2011
01207111
$25.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071
$25.00
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
AUG 2011
01108111
$25.00
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071
$25.00
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
AUG 2011
04108111
$15.00
CDI MODULE SMALL PETROL MOTORS
MAY 2008
05105081
$15.00
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
SEP 2011
04109111
$25.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081
$10.00
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
SEP 2011
01209111
$5.00
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER (Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec2010 18112101)
$25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
SEP 2011
01109111
$25.00
CAR SCROLLING DISPLAY
DEC 2008
05101092
$25.00
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
SEP 2011
01309111
$45.00
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
JAN 2009
10101091
$45.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
04103073
$55.00
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091
$35.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
16110111
$30.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
APR 2009
10104091
$10.00
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
23110111
$30.00
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
MAY 2009
04205091
$10.00
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
08110111
$30.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
MAY 2009
04105091
$35.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
01111111
$35.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
JUNE 2009
07106091
$25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODUL
NOV 2011
01111112
$25.00
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
AUG 2009
15008091
$10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
01111113
$10.00
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
AUG 2009
15008092
$45.00
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
04111111
$20.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
SEPT 2009
04208091
$10.00
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
07111111
$10.00
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
JAN 2010
01101101
$25.00
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
JUN 2010
04106101
$25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111
$30.00
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
AUG 2010
04108101
$55.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2011
0121211P2/3 $20 per set
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
SEP 2010
04109101
$25.00
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121
$10.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
SEP 2010
01209101
$25.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121
$30.00
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210101
$10.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210102
$10.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2 $30 per set
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
OCT 2010
16110102
$45.00
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
NOV 2010
01111101
$25.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
DEC 2010
04112101
$25.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121
$40.00
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
DEC 2010
18112101
$25.00
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122
$40.00
433MHZ SNIFFER
JAN 2011
06101111
$10.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123
$75.00
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
JAN 2011
99101111
$30.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121
$10.00
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
JAN 2011
01101111
$30.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112
$20.00
LED DAZZLER
FEB 2011
16102111
$25.00
HIGH CURRENT SCOPE/DMM ADAPTOR
APR 2012
04104121
$20.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
FEB 2011
14102111
$15.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121
$10.00
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
FEB 2011
06102111
$5.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04105121
$20.00
THE MAXIMITE
MAR 2011
06103111
$25.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
04105122
$20.00
$20.00
OTHER ITEMS CURRENTLY IN THE SILICON CHIP PARTSHOP:
TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD898)
JAN 2012
$33.00
TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD896)
JAN 2012
$33.00
G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER SHORT FORM KIT
AUG 2011/NOV 2011
$44.50
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 MOSFETS)
2-WAY JST CONNECTOR LEAD
JAN 2012
$3.45
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC to play!)
n/a
$62.00
3-WAY JST CONNECTOR LEAD
JAN 2012
$4.50
AMATEUR SCIENTIST VOL4 ON CD
n/a
$62.00
* ALL PRICES PLUS P&P – $10 PER ORDER WITHIN AUSTRALIA. (OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS PLEASE EMAIL US FOR A P&P QUOTE)
AND NOW THE PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS, TOO!
Micros from copyrighted and contributed
projects may not be available.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP is now stocking microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and some
selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly! Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F4550-I/P
PIC16F877A-I/P
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10),
Digital Lighting Controller (Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11),
Digital Audio Delay (Dec11)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank
Level (Sep11), Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11)
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
PIC18LF14K22
PIC18F14K50
ATTiny861
PIC12F675
ATTiny2313
ATMega48
PIC18F1320-I/SO
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11)
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10)
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
Stereo DAC (Sep-Nov09)
Intelligent Dimmer (Apr09)
*Note: P&P is extra ($10 per order). Prices listed include GST and are valid only for month of publication of this list; thereafter are subject to change without notice. 03/12
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required and the project for which it must be programmed.
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04/12
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Mains tones interfere
with lighting desk
I am hoping that you can help me
fix a problem I have with the 4-Channel Lighting Desk (SILICON CHIP, June
& July 1991).
I am part of a local amateur theatre
group and recently found this unit
broken and unloved at the bottom of
the group’s electrical box. The group
was at the time using an array of
switched plug boards to control their
lights which, as you can imagine,
leaves much to be desired. Luckily
the controller was mostly intact so
armed with a photocopy of the original
article from your archives I managed
to restore it to its former glory.
It mostly just needed new switches
(which had fallen apart), faders
cleaned and lubricated (which had
seized), new custom made timber
fader knobs (which were missing) and
a complete change of wiring (which I
didn’t trust). All the electronics were
fine, including the Triacs, which
surprised me since there was some
sooty evidence of previous shorts.
The controller has since been doing
a great job running our lights and the
group is very happy with the step-up
of professionalism, even though it
now puts extra pressure on the actors
to match our new lighting standards.
Our most recent season though has
been running longer into the night
than earlier shows and a new problem
has now emerged. Starting at around
22:00, the brightness setting suffers
periods of instability in bursts lasting
maybe 15 seconds. During each burst,
the lights rhythmically vary in brightness by about 10-20% at a frequency
of about 1Hz.
My suspicion is that the controller
is sensitive to the mains ripple control
signals that start at around that time
each night in our area. This unwanted
disco effect can be somewhat mitigated
by increasing the overall brightness
but is nevertheless off-putting for our
otherwise riveted audience.
My first guess (with no evidence)
would be that the ripple control signal
is causing some sort of harmonic effect
with the zero-crossing detector (IC2a),
resulting in its pulse output varying
slightly from the true zero-crossing
point of the mains waveform. This
then leads to a shift in the timing of
the following ramp waveform and
ultimately an error in Triac switch-on
times. If so, then maybe it’s possible to
put some sort of filtering on the signal
that’s fed to pin 6 of IC2a that will
remove the ripple signal component?
(D. P, via email).
• Control tones would be responsible
for the lamp brightness modulation.
The filtering is at pin 6 of IC2a (the
LM339) using a 1kΩ resistor and 10kΩ
resistor divider from the transformer
diodes and a 1nF capacitor.
You can increase the 1nF capacitor
to improve filtering from control tones.
A value between 10nF and 47nF could
be used. A too large value will shift the
detected zero crossing point and affect
the lamp dimming control.
Noise problem
in AM radio
I built the AM Radio (SILICON CHIP,
January 2012) and I am getting noise
in the audio output which I can also
see at the input to the LM386 (using an
oscilloscope). It appears to be RF, as if
the RF filtering is not sufficient. In the
circuit details the 10Ω resistor from the
output of the TA7642 is described as
an RF stopper resistor but shouldn’t it
need some capacitance, say across the
10kΩ volume control, to be effective?
The 470pF capacitor at the input of
the LM386 would need about 33kΩ
from the output of the TA7642 to roll
off (-3dB) at 10kHz. (R. S., via email).
• The output of the TA7642 is already
rolled off using the 18nF capacitor at
the demodulated output and so there
should not be too much RF signal at
the 10Ω resistor. It works as an RF
stopper to isolate the LM386 from the
RF stages.
Noise can occur in the audio when
the bias (using VR2) is not set for
Ultrasonic Cleaner Should Produce Cavitation Bubbles
I built the Ultrasonic Cleaner,
hoping it would help with cleaning auto parts but apart from the
chuffling noise it makes it seems to
do little more than expected from
normal soaking in parts cleaner.
YouTube shows videos of ultrasonic
cleaners (http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=xhGyK6MpkOQ) punching holes in tin foil but this kit will
not do that.
Should I expect at least some bubbling action? The unit draws just
1.1A in normal mode and about 2.2A
90 Silicon Chip
in constant mode from a 12V supply.
(K. R., Auckland, NZ).
• The Ultrasonic Cleaner will punch
holes in aluminium foil and produce
cavitation bubbles in the water,
when working correctly.
The points to check are whether
the fuseholder clips are installed
correctly. These clips have end
stops for the fuse and if the clips are
orientated with the end stop inward
then the fuse will not make good
contact with the clip and the clip
will be held open with the end stop
section. That can reduce ultrasonic
drive to the transducer, due to lack
of supply current.
Ensure that the ultrasonic transducer terminals are not wet when
the transducer is placed in the
water; it needs to be encapsulated or
otherwise isolated from the water.
Have a look at the photo of the one
shown in the Mailbag pages of the
March 2012 issue.
Finally, note that the power supply must be capable of delivering
up to 2.5A peak.
siliconchip.com.au
Warning Device For Mobility Scooter
I require some help in locating a
musical horn or warning device for
my wife and a female friend of hers
for use with a mobility scooter. The
scooter has a horn fitted as standard
but it is obtrusive, to say the least.
People do not like to be tooted at in
malls and other public places and
in very crowded places it is quite
difficult to move through a crowd
without the horn in continuous use,
which upsets some people.
So I have been looking for something that will get attention but not
in an aggressive way; some type of
high-pitched tinkle sound or musical sound would be ideal. I also need
a warning flashing light or strobe
that can be mounted on to a flexible
pole about a metre or so high, that
can be seen in bright daylight. This
is for use when she is crossing intersections, as car drivers do not see a
scooter because of its low height and
sometimes it is necessary to move
onto the roadway for a short distance
to get around cars or obstructions on
the footpath.
I have tried some flashing LEDs.
These are OK in the dark but useless in bright daylight. The only
minimum noise, or the supply via Q1
is not correct or the tuning coil is open
circuit. You can also experiment with
the 2.2kΩ resistor feeding the supply
to IC1 from the emitter of Q1. Values
between 470Ω and 10kΩ can be used.
Headphone amplifier
comparison
In the September & October 2010
issues you published a project for
a Headphone Amplifier. Could you
point out where it stands against the
Studio Series Stereo Headphone Amplifier published in 2005; ie, where it
is better or worse and for what reasons?
(J. M., via email).
• Comparing the distortion curves of
the two designs reveals that the newer
unit has a generally much improved
performance under all conditions
except for 600-ohm headphones. In
this latter case, the distortion in both
designs is on a par.
In addition, the later design is a
complete self-contained unit whereas
siliconchip.com.au
thing that meets the requirement is
a flashing beacon off a tractor but
these are huge and much too heavy.
(P. W., Goulburn, NSW).
• We can understand people not
liking being tooted at; it means “get
out of my way!”.
Possibly you should consider
something along the lines of our
Diesel Sound Simulator. This was
intended to be housed inside model
railway locomotives and produced
the sound of a diesel which raised
and lowered in pitch according to
the speed of the loco.
You could adapt this to your wife’s
mobility scooter. It could be connected to monitor the voltage across
its motor and could be modified to
produce a somewhat higher pitched
sound which would attract attention
without annoying people.
The design was published in the
December 1992 issue and we can
supply a photocopy of the article for
$12 including postage. Note that we
do not have a PCB for this design.
As far as a flashing beacon is concerned, why not use a LED strobe
light intended for burglar alarms,
such as the Jaycar LA-5328?
the November 2005 design was only a
PCB module.
Headphone amplifier
needs AVC
I was excited when I saw your Hifi
Stereo Headphone Amplifier in the
September & October 2011 issues but
disappointed that it didn’t have what
I think is a most sought-after feature.
This is an Automatic Volume Control
which would control the audio when
changing channels on the TV. Every
person I know is frustrated at having
to constantly vary the audio volume.
I did notice that your Hearing Loop
Signal Conditioner (January 2011)
had a compressor stage containing a
“Compander Chip” (SA571), which
could be set up to expand or compress
an audio signal. I am not experienced
in audio design but I was hoping that
somehow this chip could be used to
automatically vary the volume, rather
than my present system of muting the
sound when the advertisements are on.
Helping to put you in Control
Control Equipment
Serial Server
The SE5001 is a gateway for Ethernet (TCP/
IP) and RS232/RS485/
RS422 serial communications. It allows almost
any serial device to be connected to a
new or existing Ethernet network .
ATO-101 $129+GST
Solid State Relay
A 2amp 240VAC solid
state relay with a 6-24VDC
input. Features zero crossing and screw terminals.
KTD-273 $19.00+GST
RHT Controller.
Easy to configure it
features 3 relays for
temperature, humidity
and alarm. Comes with
a 3m long probe and RS485 comms
CET-112 $209.00+GST
Anemometer Datalogger We have upgraded
our anemometer monitoring and alarm card to
now include a datalogger
to record wind speed and direction
KTA-250-AL $349+GST
VLN3000 Breakout Board
Features an ambient light
sensor and an IR proximity
sensor with a 20cm range.
A I2C interface allows easy
interfacing with a microcontroller
SFS-300 $9.95+GST
Arduino Mega
2560R3 This Arduino is
fitted with an Atmega
2560 controller and
includes 256K Flash,
54 Digital I/O, 16 Analog inputs USB interface and heaps of
other features
SFA-104 $59.00+GST
Industrial grade Unmanaged 8 port Ethernet Switch. A 10/100MB
switch with a 5 year warranty this switch can
operate in temperatures
up to 70degC
ATO-005 $159.00+GST
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: 03 9782 5882
www.oceancontrols.com.au
April 2012 91
Troubleshooting The Solar Lighting System
I built the Solar-Powered Lighting
System project (SILICON CHIP, March
2010) from the Altronics kit and
it worked fine for six months but
recently the lighting function has
stopped working. The solar charging
side of the circuit and the indicator
LED continue to work as expected.
I’ve tested the lighting driver (Q4
& Q5) and the light circuit itself (4
x 0.5W LEDs) by removing the PIC
and applying +5V to pin 6 of the
PIC socket. The lights turn on as
expected and stay on until I ground
pin 6. So that looks OK.
All solder joints look good and
flexing the board or applying pressure to individual components does
not seem to have any effect, so I
think that part of the work is OK.
No components show any sign of
damage (and no components ever
felt hot when the unit was working
correctly).
With the PIC in place, all set-up
voltages have been re-checked at
the test points and are correct. The
only “strange” behaviour that I see
is that the voltage measurements
are no longer dependent on closing
S1 (same voltage in either case). I
have checked the switch itself (and
the external switch also connected)
and pin 7 (RB1) is at 4.88V when the
switch is open and falls to ground
when either switch is closed, as
expected.
However, pin 11 (RB5) appears
to be at 5V whether the switch is
open or closed (or is it just that my
voltmeter is incapable of seeing that
it is being turned on and off at a high
frequency?).
All tests were done with the PIR
disconnected, LK1 set to DAY, LK2
set to LDR and a 10kΩ resistor in
place of the LDR for consistency.
In addition,I’m trying to trigger the
lights using S1.
My guess is that there is either
something wrong within the PIC
affecting the RB1/RB5 relationship
or possibly the 2N7000 (Q6). Any
guidance you can offer would be
appreciated.
Also what are the practical limits
Is there any such unit or circuit which
will suit my need? (A. F., Chinderah,
NSW).
• We published a Stereo Compressor
in the January 2012 issue. However, we
should point out that any compressor
circuit will degrade the performance
of the headphone amplifier.
delay time for the alarm, by adjusting
trimpot VR2.
The piezo alarm would be quite loud
if you’re close to the fridge or in the
same room. By the way, if you wanted
to monitor the fridge and freezer
compartments, you would need two
of these alarms.
Fridge alarm to stop
midnight snackers
Black wire corrosion
risk can be reduced
I am interested in your Fridge Alarm
(SILICON CHIP, June 2004). I am wanting
to know if you still sell them and if so
for how much?
Can the time be changed on how
quickly the alarm goes off and how
loud is the alarm? I am wanting it to
stop some clients who sneak to the
fridge at night and stash food in their
room, so staff can hear if they do so,
without waking the other clients in
the house. (B. B., via email).
• While it was our design, we did not
sell the kit or the PCB. Both are now
unavailable.
However, it would relatively easy to
wire the circuit up on a small section of
Veroboard. You can easily change the
I have a number of LED modules
connected on a single DC supply
power circuit. Each LED module
has a small switching power supply.
These are all commercial products.
The common wire only throughout
the small network of modules fails.
The common wires develop a black
“insulative” type surface, making
soldering impossible.
It does not appear to be excess heat
that’s causing the problem as the copper retains it malleable metal nature.
Being LEDs, it is relatively low power.
I would appreciate feedback if anyone
has ideas. (P. H., Milton, Qld).
• The black substance is corrosion
which can be a problem in DC circuits,
92 Silicon Chip
to the charging circuit? The original
project has a 3.3Ah battery and 5W
solar panel. Could it handle a 7.6Ah
battery and 10W panel? I’d like to
run my 6-Digit GPS Clock from it
as well but 3.3Ah would be cutting
things a bit too fine. (P. H., via email).
• The pin 11 (RB5) output should
be normally at 0V and should go
high (to 5V) when S1 is pressed or
momentarily to check battery voltage and the TP3 and TP4 inputs. It’s
possible that IC1 is not operating
correctly since your RB5 output is
always high. You could disconnect
power and wait until the supply
drops to almost 0V on IC1, then
reapply power. This will reset IC1
which may then run correctly.
If that does not fix it, IC1 may need
replacing or reprogramming.
The circuit can accept up to an
18W solar panel. The size of the
battery is not critical but needs to
be of sufficient capacity to remain
with some available charge after use
between solar panel recharging, even
with a series of no sunlight days.
particularly in wet or marine environments. There is no complete solution
but it is better to use hookup wire that
is tinned rather than bare copper wire.
Switched capacitor
filter now obsolete
I was recently using my Sine/
Square-Wave Generator (SILICON CHIP,
February 2000) on a valve radio when
I accidentally put a high voltage on
the sinewave output output which
destroyed IC9 (the TL071) and took out
IC6, the MF4CN-50 switched capacitor
filter. Whilst I was able to replace the
TL071, I’m unable to find a supplier
for the MF4CN-50 IC and request your
assistance in buying same.
In the event of “no-supply” could
you suggest an add-on passive circuit
and also how to protect the sinewave
output from a high voltage? (R. W.,
via email).
• Unfortunately the MF4CN-50 is
obsolete and it is difficult to obtain
this part. Furthermore, the MF4CH-50
is an integral part of the circuit and
there is no equivalent circuit that can
be used to filter the waveform with the
siliconchip.com.au
frequency tracking provided by this
switched capacitor filter.
Not many oscillators are tolerant
to a high voltage applied to their output. Protection against high voltages
could be improved using two diodes
connected in series. These are reverse
connected across the TL071 supply
rails, with the output going to the
centre diode connection. The anode
of the first diode goes to the negative
supply and the cathode of the second
diode to the positive supply.
A resistor from the TL071 output to
the generator output terminal (100Ω)
would conduct the current when a
high voltage is connected and the
diodes would clamp at the supply
voltage. The resistor may be destroyed
in the process but the TL071 should
be saved from damage.
We would also recommend our
newer sinewave generators such as
the Digital Audio Oscillator from June
2009 (Altronics K2543) or the one from
March 2010 (Altronics K2553).
Questions on
headphone amplifier
I have put together the Stereo Head-
Hearing Loop Conditioner Has Compressor
I have a problem with the volume
range of TV and radio programs. My
hearing loss is 75% and it is necessary to have a speaker close to my
ear (about 300mm away) even when
using my hearing aid.
Listening to TV is very irritating
with extremely loud sound during
advertisements. Many documentary
programs have loud music during
quiet breaks. This is most annoying
as it is necessary to turn the volume
down and then up again when the
program resumes.
What I am interested in is a circuit
that will give me a constant output
regardless of the input level. Can
phone Amplifier and the matching
power supply from the October &
November 2005 issues. It was stated
in the article that “a full metal case is
recommended for this project. Plastic
will not provide necessary electrical
screening!”
Can the headphone amplifier be
included in the same metal case along
you help out? A kit would be nice
but I am quite happy to make up any
circuit that can do what I want. (L.
W., Pauanui, NZ).
• The most relevant project for your
purpose is the Hearing Loop Signal
Conditioner (published as part of
the Hearing Loop series of articles)
in the January 2011 issue. This does
include a compressor. You would
need to use it in conjunction with a
hearing loop and the T-coil on your
hearing aid.
If you don’t have a T-coil, you
would need to use the Signal Conditioner to drive a small amplifier
and loudspeaker.
with the power supply or should that
be in a separate case? I am not including the regulated +5V output for the
switching circuit. As a result of that,
can the 330Ω 5W resistor be removed?
(A. P., Manapouri, NZ).
• Whether it is a good idea to put
the Stereo Headphone Amplifier and
the power supply in the same case
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
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April 2012 93
Changing Weather Station Batteries Need Not Be Hazardous
I loved the MiniReg Adjustable
Regulator in the December 2011
issue. But well into building it, I
realised that in my specific situation,
it is not the answer.
The background to my comment
is as follows. I purchased a weather
station that I was going to install on
my house roof. When I went to add
the batteries on my kitchen table, I
discovered just how messy it was,
with very tiny screws, a waterproof
seal, etc so I decided to use the
MiniReg to power it so that I would
not have to get up on the roof when
future battery changes demanded it.
It was dictated by health and safety
concerns.
Before I got to finish building the
MiniReg, I was reminded by my
microwave that I have had another
power outage which occurs all too
frequently and that the set-up of the
weather station would have been
compromised. This is because the
outage would require me to get onto
the roof to re-initialise the anemometer settings so that it knows which
way is north (the anemometer is
set by supplying power only after
you have manually pointed it north
depends on what kind of transformer
you use and how big the case is.
If the transformer is going in
the same case, radiation from the
transformer could couple into the
headphone signal path and produce
audible hum at the output. Since this
is a low-power application, if you use
a small toroidal transformer and keep
which is on every battery change
or loss of power). This means that
I will have to get up onto the roof
after each power blip otherwise it
could be pointing south and saying
it’s north.
I suppose you have guessed what
I needed with this power supply is
some form of battery backup using
rechargeable AA batteries. I’m not
sure if it would be easy to add to
this circuit or it needs a new design.
Whilst it was the weather station
that prompted this requirement
(there are plenty of them being sold
these days), I’m confident that any
other device that would lose its
configuration on a sudden power
loss, no matter how momentary,
could benefit from this idea. (N. N.,
via email).
• As we understand it, it is not
necessary for the wind vane itself
to be pointed north. The weathervane housing (the part that does not
rotate) does need to be orientated
north but you only do this once,
when you install it. So there is no
need to point the wind vane north
each time you change the batteries.
Secondly, on some of the weather
it away from the headphone amplifier
board and input wiring, it will probably be OK. However, make sure you
use shielded cable for any signal wiring inside the case and try not to use
a small case where everything will be
in close proximity.
You can also run the unit from a 15V
AC plugpack. This has the advantage
stations we have seen (eg, from
Jaycar) there is a long 4-way phone
cable between the weather vane,
anemometer etc and the battery
holder. So it should be possible to
install the battery holder at ground
level; no climbing on the roof
should be necessary to change the
batteries.
Third, if the battery compartment is indeed included in the
anemometer housing, then it should
be possible to install couple of rechargeable cells and then have them
on permanent trickle charge from a
small solar panel. This panel only
needs to supply a few milliamps
at most.
All of which means that you do
not need the MiniReg at all for this
particular application.
Notes & Errata
6-Digit GPS Clock, May & June
2009: some resistor values on the
silk-screened PCB overlay are
incorrect (early PCBs only). The
resistors shown as 120Ω should
be 56Ω and those shown as 270Ω
should be 330Ω. The published
overlay diagram (Fig.3) is correct.
of keeping the transformer much further away from the unit. In this case,
hum pick-up should not be a problem
and also it means that there’s no mains
wiring.
You can omit the 330Ω resistor.
It was only there to compensate for
the increased current draw from the
. . . continued on page 96
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
94 Silicon Chip
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April 2012 95
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................... 76-79
Amateur Scientist CD..................... 87
Avcomm......................................... 95
Bitscope......................................... 27
Cleverscope..................................... 6
Dyne Industries.............................. 12
Emona Instruments.......................... 8
Futurlec............................................ 6
Geoff Coppa................................... 95
Grantronics.................................... 95
Harbuch Electronics......................... 8
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Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from p94
positive rail filter capacitor due to
other circuitry in the Studio Series
Preamplifier.
Fan cooling
for inverter
I have acquired a solar kit out of
the February 2008 issue, Oatley Kit
K251A. It’s for a battery charger but I
wish to use the solar panel to drive a
cooling fan to cool my PV inverter –
obviously for free, ie, sun comes out
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Jaycar ................................ IFC,45-52
and my PV-powered fans start, sun sets
and the fans stop. Was there a modification to this circuit to make it a PV
power regulator rather than a battery
charger? (P. D., via email).
• The Solar Power Regulator from
February 2008 SILICON CHIP can be
used to drive a fan instead of being
used as a battery charger. The circuit
delivers a nominal 13.8V regulated
supply when the solar panel is working, sufficient to drive the fan
You could reduce the supply for a
12V fan by changing zener diode ZD1
to a 10V version, instead of the original
SC
12V, to set the output at 11.8V.
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Instant PCBs.................................. 95
Keith Rippon................................... 95
Kitstop............................................ 75
LED Sales...................................... 95
LHP.NET.AU................................. IBC
Measurement Innovation................ 75
Microbee Technology..................... 95
Microchip Technology....................... 3
Mikroelektronika............................... 9
National Electronic Manufacturing.. 13
Oatley Electronics.......................... 33
Ocean Controls.............................. 91
Premier Batteries........................... 73
Quest Electronics........................... 95
Radio & Hobbies DVD.................... 93
RF Modules.................................... 96
Roc-Solid......................................... 5
Rohde & Schwarz.......................... 67
Sesame Electronics....................... 95
Sethna Electronics......................... 95
Silicon Chip Binders....................... 96
Silicon Chip Bookshop................... 69
Silicon Chip Order Form................ 89
Silicon Chip Partshop..................... 88
Silicon Chip Subscriptions............. 14
Siomar Battery Engineering...... 10,95
Splat Controls................................ 95
Switchmode Power Supplies.......... 57
Tekmark......................................... 12
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Wiltronics....................................... 15
96 Silicon Chip
Truscotts Electronic World.............. 95
Vicom............................................. 11
Worldwide Elect. Components....... 96
siliconchip.com.au
April 2012 97
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