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April 2013 1
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Again our thanks for your participation.
Happy building.
Toni Martin
CEO Jaycar Electronics
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Contents
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.26, No.4; April 2013
Features
12 How To Get Digital TV On Your Laptop Or PC
Do you want to catch up with TV programs while you work but don’t have the
space for a TV in your office? All you need is a cheap USB DVB-T dongle on
your PC or laptop. Here’s how to get it going – by Jim Rowe
20 The New SILICON CHIP Website
SILICON CHIP has a brand new website with a flip-page magazine and an
online shop. Here’s a rundown of its main features – by Nicholas Vinen
LED Ladybird: Any Eye-Catching
Electronic Beetle – Page 26
81 Siglent SDG1050 50MHz 2-Channel Function Generator
This arbitrary signal generator has outputs for two independent waveforms,
including sine, square, triangle, pulse and lots more, at frequencies up to
50MHz. It can also be used as a frequency counter – by Nicholas Vinen
Pro jects To Build
26 LED Ladybird: An Eye-Catching Electronic Beetle
Be the light of the party with this fascinating electronic brooch. It uses highbrightness LEDs for its eyes, wings and abdomen and it flashes these in a
fetching moving pattern – by John Clarke
36 High-Performance CLASSiC DAC; Pt.3
Third article in the series has the full PCB and final assembly details of our new
high-performance DAC – by Nicholas Vinen
60 Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase For Frequency Counters
Building The High-Performance
CLASSiC DAC – Page 36.
Simple design provides GPS-based 1pps pulses for a counter timebase. It also
extracts the NMEA 0183 data stream from the GPS satellites for processing on
a PC using free software downloaded from the internet – by Jim Rowe
74 A Rugged 10A Battery Charger From Bits & Pieces
What do you do when you have stuff left over from another project? You
think of uses for it, of course! Here we use some surplus halogen down-light
transformers to make a simple car battery charger – by Ross Tester
Special Columns
31 Circuit Notebook
(1) Splash Of Colour For The Regular Maximite; (2) FM Bug Detector Uses A
7555 As A Comparator; (3) Serial Data Transmission Over VGA; (4) Dimmer
For Christmas Light LED Strings
Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase For
Frequency Counters – Page 60.
54 Serviceman’s Log
Curly jobs: you have to be on guard
84 Vintage Radio
The First “Trannie” – The Regency TR-1 4-transistor radio
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
25 Subscriptions
34 Partshop & Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
53 Product Showcase
90 Ask Silicon Chip
95 Market Centre
A Rugged 10A Battery Charger
From Bits & Pieces – Page 74.
April
pril 2013 1
2013 1
A
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Kevin Poulter
Stan Swan
Dave Thompson
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
003 205 490. All material is copyright ©. No part of this publication
may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.
Printing: Hannanprint, Noble Park,
Victoria.
Distribution: Network Distribution
Company.
Subscription rates: $105.00 per year
in Australia. For overseas rates, see
our website or the subscriptions page
in this issue.
Editorial office:
Unit 1, 234 Harbord Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Postal address: PO Box 139,
Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Phone (02) 9939 3295.
Fax (02) 9939 2648.
E-mail: silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Our new website is up and running
After what seems like a very long gestation period,
our new website is up and running. In fact, at the time of
writing it has been running for more than a month but it
is only very recently that we have had it running with full
credit card facilities. It is with considerable relief that I
am writing this Publisher’s Letter but I am also aware that
any website tends to be a work in progress and that there
is always something that needs fixing or improving.
If you visit the website you will find that we have all
the issues going back to the beginning of 2004, a total of
135 issues (and growing) and almost 13000 pages in all,
including most of the advertisements. This has been an enormous task, especially
considering that we have incorporated most of the Notes & Errata that has been
published for all of these issues.
Nicholas Vinen has played the major part in constructing and writing the software
for our new website, ably backed up by the rest of our staff in revising layouts,
proof-reading, correcting circuits and a host of other time-consuming tasks. My
heart-felt thanks to everyone involved.
While the overall presentation of SILICON CHIP is a vast improvement over the
previous website, I am also delighted that we can now provide on-line access to any
subscriber who presently has a print magazine subscription, for a small extra fee.
Many subscribers have asked for this service in the past and now you can have it.
So if you have a one-year subscription for 2013, you can also have on-line access to
those issues. Those with a longer subscription can go back further. So that’s good.
But some readers have been very critical because they have Apple iPads and
other Apple products which do not support Adobe Flash. This is unfortunate but
this was a decision by Apple, not us. We hope to provide a workable solution but it
must be said that an on-line magazine like SILICON CHIP which displays in doublepage spreads with page-turning is never going to work particularly well on tablets.
This is mainly because SILICON CHIP often features large circuit diagrams and
photos which spread over two pages. Moreover, the resolution on most tablets is
simply not good enough to enable you to closely read and pore over the circuit
diagrams and photos. We know that our readers like to go though the issues with
a fine-tooth comb and while that is easy with a printed magazine, it doesn’t work
too well with a tablet or a screen with poor resolution.
Some readers will also be disappointed because we have not made the magazine available in PDF format. The problem with that is that it is too easy to copy
and distribute. We already have great problems with piracy and with copying in
general. Most readers are honest and some even go to the trouble of alerting us to
websites where SILICON CHIP articles are being used without acknowledgement or
authorisation. Thanks very much to those devoted readers. They recognise that if
SILICON CHIP’S intellectual property is stolen then long-term viability suffers.
In fact, magazines and newspapers worldwide are suffering from the inroads of
the internet and if magazine publishers cannot make money from their content,
there will soon be no magazines, at least not in a format which is likely to be viable
and supporting a technical staff. And while we do allow previews of the magazine
articles, we simply must charge for access to the full articles. Any publication
which does not charge for its content will soon disappear, as many already have.
I hope that you use and enjoy our on-line magazine. We have endeavoured to
make it as close to the print magazine as possible but it will have more features as
we develop it. Have a good look at the article starting on page 20 of this issue and
also at the FAQs (frequently asked questions) on the website.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Nuclear option
is unsafe
While the Rubicon article in the
February 2013 issue was interesting,
I was concerned to read in the last few
lines “. . . a nuclear option with few environmental impacts . . .” I don’t know
Dr Maddison’s area of expertise but I
can safely assume it’s not in nuclear
power. To state that nuclear power stations have no environmental impact is
not only wrong, it’s dangerous.
Most people are aware of the disasters in Chernobyl and Fukushima,
and perhaps Three Mile Island (to
name only three of the best known),
which resulted in thousands of deaths
(and more to come), as well as massive
damage to the environment, most of
which can never be reversed, but most
people are probably not aware of the
other environmental damage caused
by mining uranium.
For example, tailings at mine sites
can contain significant amounts of
radioactivity, while the cooling water
needed at the power stations kills millions of fish and damages the marine
environment when it is returned to
rivers and seas at a greatly increased
temperature. In our own case, Roxby
Downs has destroyed ancient springs,
Ranger has poisoned Kakadu wetlands
and Beverly has polluted groundwater. This is without considering the
huge increase in cancer rates among
all uranium mine workers and those
people living within a large radius of
an existing nuclear power station.
There is no satisfactory method for
storing the radioactive waste from
power stations, which has to be done
for thousands of years. On top of all
this, nuclear energy is not even economical.
For anyone still not convinced, I
refer them to Gar Smith’s book called
“Nuclear Roulette”, which is comprehensively referenced and details the
stupidity of building nuclear power
stations. Anyone not convinced after
reading this book would have to be in
denial or lacking a brain.
Alex Danilov,
Naremburn, NSW.
Comment: while damage to the environment is considerable in the case
of Fukushima, we don’t know of any
documented deaths due to the leakage of radioactivity. Nor, as far as
we know, have there been any documented deaths due to the Three Mile
Island event.
GPS timebase accuracy
may be over-stated
I have read SILICON CHIP with interest since I left Australia more than 10
years ago. I congratulate you for the
success and interesting articles published over the years.
For this reason I suggest that your
writers and editors be more careful
and realistic in making claims such
as 1 part in 1011 accuracy in the GPS
timebase article by Jim Rowe (February 2013). This accuracy cannot
be achieved with the simple circuit
shown. The main problem is frequency
jitter and up to 100ns or even 1μs jitters
are not uncommon in most modules.
One approach is by long-time averaging and a circuit that can average
the 1pps pulses over 20-100s intervals
may be able to achieve 1 part per billion (1 ppb), comparable to a rubidium
standard. Averaging techniques suffer
from diminishing return as over an
hour averaging will only get you at
most 0.1 ppb accuracy, so 0.01 ppb as
claimed by Jim is a rather tall order.
If Aussie readers need more guidance in this regard, Andy Talbot has
written an excellent article on what
can be achieved with the various
standards in “Design Notes” RadCom
RSGB Jan 2013 UK. See:
http://www.rsgb.org/news-radcom/
radcom/?month=January&year=2013
Tuck Choy,
London, UK.
Comment: you may well be right in
suggesting that frequency jitter in the
GPS module used in the timebase
would mean that the claimed order
of accuracy is unlikely to be achieved.
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4 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Wind farms and
“free energy”
However, tests done by Jim Rowe
over the last couple of months using
the GPS Timebase and the 12-digit
Counter (set to average the GPS 1pps
timebase pulses over 1000 seconds)
to measure the GPS-locked 10MHz
output from our GPS-based Frequency
Reference (SILICON CHIP, March-May
2007) have given readings with a long
term accuracy of 10MHz ±0.003Hz – ie,
±3 parts in 1010.
This error range would include jitter
in both the GPS Timebase and the GPSbased Frequency Reference, which
uses a different GPS receiver module
with an external active antenna.
So while we accept your criticism
that the claimed 1 part in 1011 may
be a little optimistic, we think it’s still
quite realistic to modify the claimed
accuracy to ±3 parts in 1010. Since we
don’t have an atomic standard frequency reference, it is not possible for
us to determine the absolute accuracy
which could be achieved.
48V house power would
need battery storage
I wondered when someone would
get around to asking about running
a house from solar panels, without
“guidance” from the grid (Mailbag,
February 2013, page 10). Of course, it
would need battery storage. The comment that a domestic supply should be
48V has my support.
You might make enquiries about
what voltage was used during the
steam era of trains. In Queensland,
I recently read your Publisher’s
Letter on wind farms in the March
2013 issue and felt it really didn’t
cover the topic as I see it. Wind farms
are free energy and, with carbon dioxide increasing in our atmosphere
at an exponential rate, any solar
source leading to a reduction in CO2
is worthwhile.
Coal power based companies are
constantly firing up gas powered
generators to meet the peak and
fluctuating demands of consumers. However, wind farms are just
a small part of the equation. Wind
farms should be complemented with
solar radiation farms, wave energy
farms and hydro schemes. The hydro
scheme is the battery in the system
that can pump water up into its lake
above when excess solar power is
being generated and when solar
power is missing it can be used to
fill the gaps.
Within Australia, there are plenty
of areas where there are mountains
the ones I saw were 48V and this
meant that thin wires could be used
compared with lower voltages; not that
much current was needed for the dim
railway filament lamps.
Some authorities believe that 50V
is the safe limit of any system which
may be contacted by humans; it is
believed that 50V will not seriously
injure a human.
Certainly, if such domestic installations become common, there should
in close proximity to the coast. If
only our government could see this
big picture and spend our money on
systems that really benefit the community instead of spending so much
money on vote buying policies (eg,
the NBN). They require toughness
to build these facilities. I see them
legislating to build roads but I do
not see them legislating construct
these solar systems. What a shame.
Hamish Rouse,
Mt Martha, Vic.
Comment: regarding wind farms as
free energy is a mistake. Regardless
of their claim to zero pollution and
no fossil fuel use, wind farms are not
free. They are a huge cost to taxpayers and electricity consumers. All
wind farms need gas-fired generators
as back-up and they are owned by
companies such as AGL and Origin
Energy, not coal miners.
Hydroelectric schemes are certainly an effective form of pumped
storage but they have been vehemently opposed by environmentalists.
be some way of preventing pluggingin of low voltage equipment into the
230/240V system; circa 1955, we had
no problem when a demonstrator in an
electrical store plugged a 32V floor polisher into the 240VAC and switched it
on, except to calm the demonstrator!
What would be most requested by
householders? Some would expect
some form of light and modern highbrightness LEDs would certainly fit in
with this idea.
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With respect to the letters from O. O. and G. G. in the
March 2013 issue (page 90), regarding full electronic
ignition systems for Moto Guzzi motorcycles, I assume
that you agree that almost any twin-cylinder motorcycle can be converted to twin-trigger full electronic
ignition with a programmable timing map.
With respect to Moto Guzzis, almost all of them (excluding relatively recent fuel-injected models which
already have full electronic ignition systems) can be
converted to a twin-trigger full electronic ignition
system. This is done by modifying the distributor shaft
and housing to take a rotating vane and two stationary Hall Effect, reluctor or optical sensors to provide
accurate separate triggers for each cylinder.
The common firing angles for twins (excluding Harley Davidson, Moto Morini etc) are 360°, 180° and 90°.
With almost all motorcycles, the camshafts rotate at
half crankshaft speed (ie, two crankshaft revolutions
for each camshaft revolution), so it should be possible
to fire the plugs only at the top of the compression
stroke. Unfortunately, some ignition systems in twincylinder motorcycle engines simply fire at the top of
both the compression and exhaust strokes.
This is definitely not the best way to do it but may be
almost unavoidable with a few engine designs. Those
who wish to overcome this problem could install a
steel pin in the cam sprocket (or in the cam gear, in
gear-driven valve timing systems) with an appropriately placed reluctor pickup screwed into the engine
case, to differentiate the compression stroke from the
exhaust stroke.
In any case, we are not talking rocket science when
11/14/12 7:15 PM
considering converting older Moto Guzzis, BMWs,
Nortons, Triumphs etc, to twin-trigger full electronic
ignition systems. This sort of upgrade promises significantly better fuel economy and power.
With the cost of fuel these days, a SILICON CHIP
project for a full electronic ignition system for older
(particularly carburettor-fueled) twin-cylinder motorcycles would be greatly appreciated by innumerable
motorcyclists and would be a world first for an electronics hobby magazine. I have no doubt that news of
such a project would spread like wildfire through the
twin-cylinder motorcycle internet forums throughout
the world.
Otto Hoolhorst,
Brisbane, Qld.
The major household need would be refrigeration and
that has certain demands. The starting current of a normal
domestic refrigerator is quite high and some understanding
of this is needed; also the technique of supplying power
to only one refrigerator until it has started, then turning
on another if there are several in the house. Mostly, two
refrigerators can be run at the same time from most standby
supplies, provided the standby supply is capable. We had
Tel:0432 502 755
6 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
some experience of running a household from a petrol
generator a few years ago and other needs can be supplied
without grid-based electricity.
There are some emergency needs which depend on gridbased electricity but usually these are known in advance
and provision can be made for them. Perhaps one of the
best measures is to decide if storm winds can blow down
trees and interrupt the normal mains supply (from the grid).
Unfortunately, while it may be not too difficult to run
a domestic refrigerator from a solar panel (and inverter),
the time when it is needed may be when there is insufficient sunlight.
One aspect which seems to have not been raised concerns
house insurance. The very nature of 48V supplies implies
that there will be a lot of DIY installations and these will
be quite susceptible to fire hazard. Again circa 1950, I was
told that many 32V installations were DIY and that to have
house insurance, the usual practice was to seek a licensed
electrician to certify the installation. I saw enough during
my seven years with an electrical store to be fearful of
DIY. Some farm houses I saw had the kitchen in a separate
building; that was their fire insurance.
Alan Brooks,
North Mackay, Qld.
Comparing instantaneous gas
with off-peak electric hot water
I must agree with Geoff Syme (Mailbag, March 2013,
page 5) regarding losses from storage hot water systems.
I have recorded my gas, electricity and water usage every
month since 2007. In May 2012, I replaced my 25-year-old
storage gas hot water system with an instantaneous gas
system. Since then, my gas usage has consistently been
about 14MJ/day lower than for the previous year. Since
my hot water, cooking and heating usage pattern have not
changed, the excess energy must be the heat loss from
the storage hot water system. This is 14MJ/day or about
4kWh/day.
I pay 1.65 cents/MJ for gas, so storage heat loss costs
23 cents per day. If you do the equivalent calculation at
10 cents/kWh for off-peak electricity, the cost is 40 cents
per day. Thus off-peak electricity cannot compete with
gas in Melbourne.
Since the savings in the instantaneous gas system is
less than $50 per year, it will take 20 years to repay the
additional cost of the instantaneous gas system. It’s hardly
worth the additional expense but I do feel a bit greener!
Peter Kay,
Dromana, Vic.
Comment: so gas systems must still have significant losses,
whether they are storage or instantaneous. We assume
that your previous gas storage system had a pilot light (a
small permanently-lit flame, for those not familiar with
gas heaters). That would have been responsible for at least
some of the losses and losses up the flue to the outside air
would also be significant. Both of these are not factors in
electric off-peak storage systems. Losses in electric systems
involve the wiring, the tank and pipes, although losses in
the pipes would be the same in gas systems.
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website: www.premierbatteries.com.au
TEL: (02) 9755 1845 FAX: (02) 9755 1354
ABN12003149013
siliconchip.com.au
April 2013 7
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8 Silicon Chip
Mailbag: continued
Changeover to LED down-lights
does not need an electrician
I recently read the article on changing 12V halogens
to LED down-lights. I do not think there is any doubt
that the author of the article is espousing the cost
benefits of replacing 12V halogen down lights with
LED down-lights. The article goes into some detail
indicating the likely savings of using such technology. However, the argument is at best incomplete and
possibly misleading.
There is no question that the power usage of LED
lights will be significantly less than their 12V halogen
counterparts and therefore result in a reduced on-going
power bill for the building.
But the article does not address the capital cost of
changing over from one type to the other. I am not
aware of the various state rules but would not be
surprised if by law the replacement of one type with
another could also involve the costs associated with a
qualified electrician. As a result, how can any reader
assess the likely Return on Investment (ROI) time
period without a substantial level of effort to fill in the
“gaps” within the article?
Unless it was the intention of the article to only
provide half a story, it may be worthwhile if the other
aspects of the changeover costs are addressed in a
future instalment.
Ian Faulder, via email.
Comment: since 12V halogen lamps are normally a
plug-in installation, we would take the view that an
electrician does not have to be involved since the fixed
wiring does not need to be changed or modified. Of
course, if the halogen lamps are permanently wired
in, then an electrician would need to be involved.
Also if a home-owner is unable or unwilling to cut the
larger holes for the LED down-lights then it would be
appropriate to have an electrician do the job.
Still, it would be a simple matter to have an electrician quote for the job and then return on investment
can be calculated.
bill had usage of 403kWh for 87 days (off-peak electric hot
water). That’s the total, including any losses. So consumption is 4.63kWh/day and cost was 51 cents/day (including
GST). The previous quarter’s consumption was 468kWh
for 91 days. The exterior of the tank is cool to the touch
so tank losses must be fairly low.
DAB+ tuner kit & AM reception
I am a retired ex-Telecom Technical Officer and many
years ago, in what now seems a previous life, I used to
avidly read the electronics magazine of the day, “Radio Television & Hobbies” in its various iterations. I constructed
various items of interest, such as the lovely Playmaster
60/60 Stereo Amplifier designed by a Leo Simpson & John
Clarke. Then that magazine folded and I lost interest in
all things electronic.
siliconchip.com.au
Just a few years ago, when I was aged
about 60-odd, I attended The Royal
Melbourne Institute of Technology
and did an “Advanced Electronics”
course over two years as I wanted to
understand the changes that were taking place in the electronics world and
around that time, I discovered SILICON
CHIP. Recently, I decided I would build
myself a DAB+/FM tuner to add to my
Cambridge Azur 620A V2 amplifier
and 620C V2 CD Player which I play
through my Mission M35i Speakers.
(I also have a DVD player and PVR).
I searched on-line and I found your
articles on a “A High-Quality DAB+/
FM Tuner” by Mauro Grassi (October,
November & December 2010) and
decided to send for the three issues.
I was wondering if you are you contemplating any newer DAB+ tuners in
the near future?
Also, I have been wondering about
the current situation regarding wideband AM tuners. I am appalled at
what constitutes AM sound these day
in radios and FM/AM tuners. I realise
that stereo AM is no longer with us but
MEANWELL
DC-DC CONVERTERS
would it be possible to do an article
on the matter of AM sound today and
maybe a half-decent tuner?
I would like to read an article on the
Australian scene as it stands today. By
that I mean what is the usual AM station bandwidth these days? It sounds
like it is generally pushed out to about
4-5kHz bandwidth and seems to have
around 10% harmonic distortion,
making broadband out of the question.
Or are some “music” stations pushing
out a wider bandwidth?
Years ago, I actually built a wideband tuner and it had splendid full
sound. Unfortunately, I lost it in a
house fire. I think the one that I built
had around 9kHz bandwidth. I would
love to replace it.
My congratulations on your excellent magazine.
Bram Taylor.
Rosebud, Vic.
Comment: we have no plans to do another DAB+ tuner as there is little we
could do to improve the first design.
In any case, it wasn’t very popular,
regardless of its good performance.
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Also DAB+ quality is nowhere near
as good as it could be because the
stations simply do not have a high
enough data bit rate.
AM stations still have a bandwidth
out to 9kHz and distortion is quite low
but very few tuners can exploit the
quality available and of course, few
stations transmit music. In any case,
if you have DAB+ reception, you can
receive all FM, AM and ABC & SBS
digital radio broadcasts at reasonable
quality.
In January 2013, we reviewed the
Marantz NA7004 DAB+/AM/FM tuner
which features the CS4398 DAC chip
and it is a good all-round performer
although the FM reception is not up
to the very fine standards of the best
FM tuners from 30 years ago. Its AM
reception is not wideband.
Low voltage DC domestic
distribution has drawbacks
I don’t think that there is much
to recommend Bob Lions’ plea for a
standardised low voltage distribut
ion system (Mailbag, page 10, Feb-
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April 2013 9
Mailbag: continued
Doubt on wind farm
health issues
Your recent Publisher’s Letter
titled “Wind farms are now recognised as a serious health issue”
(March 2013) will certainly generate
some interest. However, you should
definitely quote sources to make
such a statement.
I am no expert but I do remember
many instances where people read
something like this on other matters
and suddenly discovered they were
a victim/sufferer too.
Remember the RSI (Repetitive
Strain Injury) discussions in the
1980s, apparently a very serious issue at the time, mostly suffered by
employees in the public service and
large corporations? It does not seem
to be an issue any more, even though
computer/keyboard use would have
increased by a substantial amount
since that time.
The other chestnut of course is
ruary 2013). There are very few devices that would directly accept the
distributed voltage, a point which
Bob implicitly recognises when in
suggestion (2) he asks for “a series of
high efficiency regulators”. All that
would happen is a swap from readily
available 230VAC plugpacks to rarer,
and very likely more expensive, 24V
regulators. And the system would not
be suitable for many domestic appliances like washing machines, so a
parallel 230VAC supply is still needed.
radiation from mobile phone base
stations. I thought we had put that
one to bed too, until recently. There
is now quite a kerfuffle going on
about an antenna at Balgowlah, in
Sydney. Nobody in authority seems
to point out that the location in question is not far from a TV translator
operating in the same spectrum and
transmitting several kilowatts; likely
to produce similar field strength at
the same spot where residents are
concerned. And it has done so for
more than 20 years, 24 hours a day,
7 days a week.
It even looks a bit like a phone
tower . . . just bigger!
The Publisher seems to be quite
vocal in denigrating any “green”
initiatives and that is of course his
prerogative. I find it strange, however, that this has evolved into such
a partisan issue over the last few
years. Conservatives seem hell bent
to not only dismiss climate science
Perhaps a nominal 230V DC system
would make more sense. Many devices now run off switchmode power
supplies and the first thing they do is
take the AC mains and rectify it to DC.
These might run quite happily from
a DC supply with no modification or
at most bypassing the bridge rectifier
which otherwise would have two diodes carrying all the current instead
of sharing it between four. This would
have to be considered on a device by
device basis but I think that computers,
but actively encouraging people to
think it is not an issue.
The only only valid reason I can
see for not acting at this point in
time is that it may already be too late
and we will all be dead before the
consequences of inaction become
fully apparent.
We now have wonderful technology to produce non-polluting
power if we choose to use it, but all
the noise is about the “Carbon Tax”
without any thought being given
as to what it aims to achieve. Wind
power is obviously not the perfect
solution but is only one of many
alternatives available.
Your headline is alarmist and
provides another argument to those
sceptical of climate science or unwilling to debate the issue rationally.
Would it not be more productive
if you used your voice to compare
different technologies and how they
may help achieve a cleaner environment?
Horst Leykam,
Dee Why, NSW.
phone chargers, various plugpacks,
TVs, CFLs, some dishwashers and
washing machines would work.
Toasters and jugs would probably
work but would arc badly when they
switched themselves off. Many motordriven devices could not be plugged in
directly but may work with “modified”
AC, ie, a 50Hz square-wave from a
simple controller added to the device
or deployed at a convenient 230V DC
outlet.
I have considered something like
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this in relation to my own electricity
usage. A bank of 19 12V 100Ah batteries would supply between 238V fully
charged, down to 222V when partially
discharged. This is well within the
specification of most switchmode supplies. The maximum capacity is nearly
23kWh and my daily consumption averages around 7kWh/day. If these were
charged overnight at the cheapest rate,
the average charge/discharge would be
only 25% of capacity, as some of the
7kWh is being drawn at the night rate
so doesn’t need to be stored.
Note that it would be necessary to
add a series regulator to the distribution system as the battery voltage
would be near 270V during charging. This doesn’t need to be anything
special – a drop of 30V in a resistive
load to get 240V is still 87% efficient,
and it only happens during charging
when most household consumption
is minimal.
Economically the figures are not
good. The cheaper deep-cycle batteries
this size are around $200; an outlay of
$3800. If all my electricity was charged
at the cheapest rate, rather than the
current three-tier rate, I would save
approximately $300/year. This is a
payback period greater than 12 years at
100% efficiency. It seems unlikely the
batteries would last the distance, even
though the charge/discharge is low.
If I went off-grid, the situation would
improve. My usage would easily be
covered by 3kW of solar panels (I
have a 1kW system that yields around
1400kWh/year or approx 4kWh per
day). By going off-grid I save the static
supply charge of approximately $270/
year. If the panels have a lifetime of
25 years, the supply charge saved is
nearly $7000 and the panel outlay is
currently half this.
Conveniently, 3kW of 24V 250W
panels has a series output greater than
the 270V required for charging the
batteries, so a simple MPPT controller
would handle it. For bad weather backup, a small, efficient standby generator
would also be required. This would
still yield a surplus of some thousands
of dollars over 25 years.
So economically, battery life is the
sticking point. I calculate that being
off-grid would cost a few hundred
dollars extra per year. As I am currently getting a generous feed-in tariff,
this is all speculation at the moment.
However, it gives credence to the
Publisher’s Letter in the December
2012 issue and his comment that going off-grid could be economic with
rising tariffs.
Which comes back to the idea of circulating a nominal 230V DC. Obviously some devices just won’t work and it
would be necessary to feed them with
a generated 230VAC. This may not be
so costly, with devices like the one
used in the Induction Motor Controller (SILICON CHIP, April & May 2012)
available. Also the technology used
in 24V DC/230VAC inverters should
translate easily to 230V DC/230VAC,
with better efficiency. There are some
drawbacks to DC, eg, more arcing and
electrolysis problems, to name two.
But prompted by Bob Lions’ letter, I
thought I’d put forward an alternative.
Alan Cashin,
SC
Islington, NSW.
See the
revie
new SIE- w of our
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March 2
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April 2013 11
How to get
Digital
TV
on your laptop or desktop PC
By JIM ROWE
Do you want to catch up with TV programs while you work but
don’t have the space for a TV in your office or den? Now you
can watch on your PC, either in a window or full-screen. All you
need is a cheap USB DVB-T dongle. But while they are cheap to
buy, they can be a bit tricky to install. Never fear though, we take
you through the steps to get it done.
Y
OU MIGHT HAVE written off
those el-cheapo DVB-T dongles
you’ve seen on offer from a multitude
of on-line sellers. Or you might have
bought one and then been thoroughly
frustrated trying to install it – we can
well understand that! But they are
worth the trouble because not only
can you watch digital TV on your
laptop or desktop PC, many of them
are also capable of letting you receive
both FM radio and DAB+ digital radio
broadcasts.
Even more amazing, most of them
12 Silicon Chip
are also capable of turning your PC into
a wideband VHF/UHF multi-mode
communications receiver with a builtin spectrum analyser! They really are a
marvel of modern solid-state technology – effectively a digital set-top box
shrunk down into a dongle.
In this first of a short series of articles, we’re going to explain what’s inside those DVB-T USB dongles or “TV
sticks” that have almost exploded into
the on-line market over the last year
or two. We’ll also tell you how to put
them to work – turning your PC into a
DTV receiver plus a DAB+ digital radio
and an FM radio, using the software
that usually comes with them.
Then, in the next article, we’ll explain how to use them with other software to turn your PC into an even more
powerful “software defined radio”
(SDR), capable of both multi-mode
reception and “panoramic” spectrum
analysis display over a wide range of
VHF and UHF bands. Did you read
our review of the WINRADIO communications radio in the June 2012
issue? A software-defined radio using
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: three typical DVB-T tuner dongles. These all feature a 75-ohm BellingLee antenna socket but many other dongles come with a much smaller SMB
connector, requiring an adaptor cable to connect them to an external antenna.
ANTENNA
Fig.1 (above): a screen grab of Presto!
PVR displaying HDTV channel ABC
News 24, received using an ExTV645
USB DVB-T tuner dongle plugged into
a Windows XP machine.
a DVB-T dongle can provide many of
the same facilities at a piffling fraction
of the cost!
What’s inside?
Have we aroused your curiosity?
Then let’s begin by looking inside a
typical dongle to see what’s there. As
you can see from the block diagram
of Fig.3, there isn’t all that much. Just
two complex chips which do most of
the work, plus a few smaller devices
which do auxiliary functions like
supply voltage regulation, storage of
control parameters and receiving IR
remote control commands.
In many ways, the heart of these
dongles is the digital demodulator
chip. In almost all of the dongles currently available, this is an RTL2832U
device made by Realtek in Taiwan.
A surprising amount of circuitry is
crammed inside this tiny 48-pin QFN
SMD, as follows:
• A digital demodulator capable of
demodulating a wide range of COFDM
(coded orthogonal frequency division multiplexing) signals, including
DVB-T television (HD and SD), DAB/
DAB+ digital radio and analog FM
radio. The demodulator supports
multiple intermediate frequencies (IF)
of 36.167MHz, 4.67MHz and “zero
IF” (baseband). It also has automatic
transmission mode and guard interval
detection, impulse noise cancellation,
siliconchip.com.au
1.5V
REGULATOR
BELLING-LEE (PAL)
OR SMB SOCKET
DIGITALLY PROGRAMMABLE
MULTI-BAND VHF & UHF
TUNER CHIP
(ELONICS E4000,
FITIPOWER FC0013 OR
RAFAEL MICRO R820T)
OPTIONAL
RECEIVER FOR
IR REMOTE
3.3V
REGULATOR
REALTEK RTL2832U
COFDM DIGITAL
DEMODULATOR CHIP
(DVB-T, DAB+, DAB,FM)
WITH USB 2.0 I/F
USB
TYPE A
PLUG
EEPROM
INSIDE A TYPICAL DVB-T/FM/DAB+ USB DONGLE OR 'TV STICK'
Fig.3: inside a typical DVB-T USB tuner. It’s based on two complex chips: a
digitally-programmable multi-band tuner chip and a digital demodulator
chip with an IR port and a USB 2.0 interface.
Fig.4: inside an
EzTV668 USB
tuner dongle.
The RF signal is
directly coupled
to tuner chip U4,
while U3 is the
demodulator.
delayed AGC, automatic carrier recovery over a wide offset range, a 7-bit ADC
for IF signal level measurement and
built-in hardware MPEG-2 PID filters;
• A complete USB 2.0 interface engine, supporting full and high speeds
with configurable VID information via
the external EEPROM; and
• An IR port for remote control and
wake-up protocols.
The RTL2832U runs from a 3.3V
supply, so it needs a regulator to derive
this voltage from the PC via the USB
input. Apart from that, all it needs is a
single low-cost 28.8MHz crystal and a
small EEPROM that’s used to store its
control parameters and ID configuration data.
The other main chip inside the dongle is a digitally programmable multiband VHF/UHF tuner chip, shown to
the left in Fig.3. This performs all the
functions of a complete RF front-end,
including a wideband low-noise input
amplifier (LNA) with variable gain and
autonomous automatic gain control
(AGC), a mixer using a fractional-N
synthesiser with a fully integrated
VCO and loop filter, and a flexible IF
amplifier and channel filter with digiApril 2013 13
Fig.5 (below): this Kaiser Baas KBA010003
DVB-T kit comes with the USB tuner itself,
a basic infrared remote control, an external
whip antenna, a USB extension lead and a
software CD.
Fig.6: a compact Yagi antenna like
this indoor unit may be all you need
to get good reception in very strong
signal areas. In most cases though,
you will need to connect the tuner to
a good outside antenna.
tal IF gain control and programmable
channel bandwidth.
Tuner chips
There are three different tuner chips
used in the vast majority of DVB-T
dongles currently available: the E4000
made by Elonics Ltd, the FC0013 made
by Fitipower and the R820T device
from Rafael Microelectronics in Taiwan. The main differences between
these tuner chips seem to be in terms
of tuning range and supply voltage,
as follows:
• The E4000 operates from 1.5V and
covers a tuning range from 52MHz to
2200MHz, with a gap from 1100MHz
to approximately 1250MHz;
• The FC0013 operates from 3.3V and
covers a tuning range from 22MHz to
approximately 1100MHz; and
• The R820T operates from 3.3V and
covers a tuning range from 24MHz to
1766MHz.
As you can see, the E4000 has the
widest tuning range but its manufacturer has apparently gone out of
business. So while you will probably
be able to get dongles with this tuner
chip for some time to come, these are
likely to “dry up” when the dongle
makers’ stocks run out. Once this happens, dongles containing the R820T
tuner chip will probably become the
14 Silicon Chip
most popular but note that for the kind
of DVB-T/DAB/DAB+/FM work that
most dongles have been designed for,
the FC0013 chip is capable of doing
everything that is needed.
Now that you have a reasonable
idea of what’s inside a typical dongle
(from Fig.3), turn your attention to the
picture of Fig.4. This shows the inside
of an EzTV668 dongle, currently available on-line for less than $30. The PAL/
SMB antenna input connector is at left,
with the RF signal coupled directly
into the E4000 tuner chip (U4) just to
its right. If you look closely, you can
also see an SOT-23 dual-diode “overload protection” device (labelled U7)
just below the centre lug of the PAL
connector.
Above the tuner chip you can also
see the 1.5V regulator chip (U1) used
to provide it with power. Then at
lower centre you can see the 28.8MHz
crystal used in the clock oscillator of
the RTL2832U demodulator chip (U3),
which is roughly midway between
tuner chip U4 and the USB type A plug
at the right-hand end. Note that U3 is
partly obscured by the IR remote receiver (U6), the leads of which mount
on the PCB above U3, but bent over so
the IR receiver is “looking” upwards.
The remaining components to note
are the EEPROM (U5), visible just
below U3 and U6, and the 3.3V regulator U2, located near the USB plug at
upper right.
Most of the dongles you’ll currently find on the market will look
very similar inside to the one shown
in Fig.4. For example, the EzTV645 is
almost identical apart from using an
FC0013 tuner chip and as a result not
having a 1.5V regulator chip. This is
also the case with many of the sub-$20
“no-name” dongles and the compact
Kaiser Baas KBA01008 (RT). Some of
the sub-$20 dongles also lack the IR
remote receiver.
Now although they all contain much
the same innards, dongles can vary
quite a bit in terms of external size.
Dongles like the EzTV668 and the
EzTV645 are among the largest, measuring about 87mm overall in length,
28mm in width and 17mm in depth.
The Kaiser Baas KBA01008 is significantly smaller, measuring 65 x 20 x
13mm, while some of the “no-name”
dongles are somewhat smaller again
at around 58 x 22 x 10mm – much
the same size as an older thumb drive.
Inside the box
So what can you expect to find
inside the box, when you order one
of these mini marvels and it finally
arrives? Well, this can also vary quite
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the BlazeVideo HDTV player displaying ABC1
on a laptop with a Digital Energy USB tuner.
a bit, depending largely on how much
you’ve been prepared to spend.
If you have spent $50 or more, you
can expect to get a package containing
all of the items shown in Fig.5. As well
as the dongle itself, there should be
one of the baby whip antennas shown,
with a coaxial lead about 1.5m long
fitted with a PAL or SMB plug to mate
with the dongle’s antenna input. There
will also probably be a small (playing
card sized) remote control like the
one shown, and perhaps a small USB
extension lead like the one visible at
upper right.
Most importantly, there should be a
CD-ROM with the drivers and software
you’ll need to install the dongle on
your PC. The CD should ideally be a
standard 120mm type like that shown
(although probably in a paper sleeve
rather than in a CD case), as these
are suitable for all kinds of CD and
DVD drives. But some come with the
software on an 80mm CD and these
can be tricky to load into a PC with a
vertical-tray drive. You may have to
copy the files over to a 120mm disk
to get around this problem.
Of course you probably won’t get
siliconchip.com.au
all of the above items if you go for
a cheaper dongle. For example, you
may not get a USB extension lead or a
remote control. You may still get one of
the baby whip antennas but these are
not much use anyway. For best results
with virtually any dongle, you need to
connect it to a decent outdoor antenna.
With some of the really “el-cheapo”
dongles, you may not get even a CD
with the software. Instead, there may
be just a small card in the box, suggesting you download the software
yourself from the website URL they
provide. And if the software you can
download includes a multi-mode
DTV/DAB application as well as the
drivers, the card may also be printed
with the serial number you’ll need to
key in to enable the application once
it’s installed.
Regardless of whether you go for one
of the complete kits like that shown
in Fig.5 or one of the no-frills sub$20 specials, the main items you’re
going to need are the dongle itself and
the software. So if the software isn’t
included, download it and burn it to
a CD as soon as you can. The baby
whip antenna can be junked unless
you plan to use the dongle to watch
DTV or listen to DAB+ digital radio
with your laptop out in a park with
a good line-of-sight to the transmitter
antenna towers. Indoors, you’ll get the
best results using an outside antenna
– either a standard TV antenna or a
wideband omnidirectional VHF/UHF
antenna like a “discone”.
Installation
Now let us move on to discuss
installing your dongle’s drivers and
application software on your PC. As
you might expect, the first step is to
install the driver files, which allow
Windows to exchange data and commands with the dongle via the USB
port it’s connected to. Once the drivers
are installed and set up, you can install
the application software.
Installing the drivers can sometimes
be tricky, as we can vouch for from
personal experience. All kinds of
strange problems can crop up during
the driver installation stage and it can
be pretty frustrating. To avoid these
problems, we suggest that you follow
this procedure:
(1) If you did not receive a CD with
April 2013 15
Fig.8: this screen grab shows several of the files that appear in Device Manager
when you install the driver software for a DVB-T tuner with a Realtek 2832U
chip (almost all such tuners use this chip).
your dongle’s drivers and software, go
online and download them from the
website shown on the card or leaflet.
The files will probably download in a
single compressed (zip) file. Once this
has downloaded, extract the files and
burn them to a CD. If one of the files is
an installer or autorun file, make sure
you burn that to the CD as well (even
if it’s on a sub-directory).
Alternatively, you can simply save
the files into a folder on the hard disk.
(2) Next, plug your dongle into
one of the USB 2.0 ports of your PC.
Make sure that the port you use is
directly associated with one of your
PC’s USB host controllers; not one of
the downstream ports of a hub. The
dongle should also be plugged directly
into the port if this is at all possible,
not via an extension lead. If you must
use an extension lead, use a very short
one – no longer than about 300mm.
(3) A few seconds after you plug
in the dongle, Windows should announce that it has recognised a new
device and it will probably fire up
an installation “wizard” to find and
install what it “thinks” are the correct
drivers. Because they almost certainly
won’t be the correct drivers, don’t let
the wizard spend a lot of time wandering around on the web searching
for and then installing some make-do
drivers.
In fact, it’s quite OK to click on the
16 Silicon Chip
wizard’s Cancel button, to send it back
to sleep. Don’t worry if it does manage
to find and install some drivers, though
– these can be replaced with the real
ones later. So just ignore any messages
it may display, whether they’re advising of an installation problem or of a
supposedly successful one.
(4) Now insert the driver disk you
received with the dongle (or burnt
yourself) into the CD drive of your
PC. If it has an autorun file, Windows
should run this and present you with
a menu listing the various installation options. Make sure you select
the “Driver installation” option first,
whereupon it should proceed to install
the correct drivers for your device.
Provided there’s an autorun file,
the procedure will be the same if you
download the software yourself and
burnt the files to a CD. Alternatively,
if there’s no autorun file and you’ve
saved the files to a CD or to a hard
disk, check the files (using Windows
Explorer) and double-click the one
that looks to be the driver installer.
It will probably be an “exe” file, perhaps with the characters “RTL2833U”
somewhere in the filename, and it may
be in a separate folder on the disk.
When you find the most likely
suspect, try running it as the Administrator. This is especially important if
you’re trying to install the dongle files
on a Windows 7 machine.
(5) Once the correct driver files have
been installed, exit from the CD autorun menu if there is one, or otherwise
simply eject the CD from its drive and
place it to one side for the time being.
That’s because you need to check
the status of the driver files yourself,
before proceeding to install any other
software. There’s no point in installing
the other software unless the drivers
have been correctly installed.
(6) Now click on Start -> Control
Panel -> System -> Device Manager
and click on the Hardware tab. You
should now be presented with a dropdown list of all of the hardware items
in the PC that are recognised by Windows. And if you look down this list,
you should see a subsection just below
Processors, with a [+] sign next to a
small loudspeaker icon and the label
“Sound, video and game controllers”.
Click on the [+] sign to see a dropdown list of devices. Somewhere on
that list, there should be an item with
a name like “REALTEK 2832U Device”
or “DVBT/Radio TV Stick”.
(7) Right-click on this item and select “Properties”. A window should
open displaying the properties of the
device. At first, it will probably be displaying its “General” tab, indicating
that the device is working correctly.
Then, if you click on the “Driver” tab,
you should be able to see the Driver
Provider as “REALTEK” – as shown
in the centre of Fig.8.
(8) Next click on the “Driver Details”
button, which should bring up yet another window like that shown on the
right in Fig.8. If the driver files have
been installed correctly, this window
will have a scroll-down list of at least
four driver files, with filenames like
this: BdaPlgln.ax, BdaSup.sys, ks.sys
(or ksthunk.sys), RTL2832UBDA.sys
and RTL2832UUSB.sys.
Note especially the “RTL2832U”
sequence in two of the files. By the
way, there may be other files besides
these four – as many as 19 files in
all – but that’s not important. If those
four crucial files are shown, the drivers
for your dongle have probably been
installed correctly.
(9) If your dongle has an IR remote
receiver inside (like the one pictured
in Fig.4), its driver software may include another driver file to allow this
to be used. In this case, you should
also be able to find a “USB Composite
Device” listed down near the bottom
of the main drop-down list in Device
siliconchip.com.au
Manager, under the Universal Serial
Bus Controllers section label.
If you right-click this device name
and select Properties, you should see
in the General tab a message to the effect that it’s working correctly. Which
is fine but not much consolation if
the dongle’s main driver files haven’t
installed properly.
Troubleshooting
So what DO you do if these main
driver files are not shown? As you
have probably guessed, this almost
certainly means that the drivers have
not been installed correctly – despite
what Device Manager may be telling
you. In other words, you are now in
troubleshooting territory.
The first thing to try is to unplug the
dongle from the USB port, wait a few
seconds and then plug it into another
USB port. Then wait a few seconds
again, while Windows does its stuff
and hopefully this time correctly installs the drivers.
When you go into Device Manager
again and check the dongle’s Properties and driver file details as before,
the four critical files listed in point
8 above should now be listed. (Don’t
ask why changing USB ports can solve
the problem, but sometimes it does).
If this doesn’t meet with success,
the next step is to try re-installing the
drivers all over again from the dongle’s
software CD. In other words, jumping
back to step 4 above – but with a few
further steps along the way. You’ll
almost certainly find that the driver
installer on that disk will want to uninstall the existing drivers first. It will
then get you to reboot the PC before it
will agree to install them again.
So what sounds like a simple reinstall procedure becomes a bit more
complicated. Sorry, but we did tell that
these things can sometimes be temperamental to install! Hopefully, you
should only have to uninstall, reboot
and then re-install the drivers once,
before you are greeted with all the
correct entries in Device Manager ->
Properties -> Driver Details, to confirm
that the drivers are finally in place.
Unfortunately, there is still a possibility that even a re-install from the
CD won’t achieve a successful driver
installation. If that’s the case, your only
option is to find the website of either
the dongle maker or their associated
software producer and search for a new
and/or updated copy of the drivers.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: BlazeVideo HDTV scanning for TV channels. This scanning procedure
must also initially be carried out for DAB+ and FM radio stations.
Fig.10: BlazeVideo HDTV playing DAB+ radio station 2DAY. Stations can be
selected using either the electronic program guide (EPG) dialog, the control
panel dialog or the dongle’s IR remote control.
Then you can download these drivers, burn them to a CD and begin the
driver installation process all over
again, from step 4 above. It’s a bit of
a hassle but it may well be your best
chance of finally getting a successful
driver install.
The main software app(s)
As explained earlier, there’s no
point in even trying to install your
dongle’s main application software
until the drivers are correctly installed.
But once this has been done, you can
re-load the software CD in your PC’s
disk drive and proceed to install the
application software.
You should find this process all
relatively straightforward, although
you’ll probably find that each software application will want you to
type in the serial number or password
April 2013 17
Fig.11: a live TV screen grab from ArcSoft TotalMedia
3.5 while tuned to ABC News 24, Channel 16.
printed on the disk sleeve or download
instruction card, as part of the installation process – the usual rigmarole,
in other words.
There are several different applications commonly supplied with currently available DVB-T dongles. For
example, many EzTV dongles come
with NewSoft Presto! PVR, which allows scanning the various bands, viewing DTV, listening to DAB+ or FM radio
and also recording DTV to hard disk.
Another commonly supplied application is Blaze Video Magic 3.0, which
allows you to do video and audio file
conversion.
The Kaiser Baas KBA010003 dongle
comes with a single application called
ArcSoft TotalMedia 3.5, a very powerful app for scanning the DVB-T, DAB+
and FM radio bands, logging all the
carriers/stations and letting you view
and/or listen to any desired signal. It
Fig.12: ArcSoft TotalMedia tuned to DAB+ radio station
702 ABC Sydney (channel 43).
also allows you to record the signal to
hard disk and view any EPG that may
be available, etc.
Many of the low-cost, no-name TV
dongles that don’t come with a driver/
software CD but instead ask you to
download them yourself provide another application called BlazeVideo
HDTV Player 6.0. This seems to be a
somewhat later application than Blaze
Video Magic 3.0, with various extra
bells and whistles (including most of
the functions of Presto! PVR). It can
also be used to upgrade Blaze Video
Magic 3.0, by the way (you just have
to “unlock” it using the original serial
number/password).
These applications all seem to be
capable of giving good results with
each of the dongles I have tried, providing each dongle has had its correct
drivers installed. However, we should
warn you that even with the drivers
correctly installed, you can still get
some weird problems.
For example, after I installed the
drivers for the Kaiser Baas KBA010003
dongle on my Windows 7 machine,
checked them and then installed
ArcSoft TotalMedia 3.5, it initially
couldn’t find the dongle and refused
to proceed. Only when I went through
the rigmarole of uninstalling the
drivers and then re-installing them
again would it find the dongle when
I plugged it in and then go ahead and
scan the DVBT, DAB+ and FM channels, etc.
Another problem appeared when
installing a no-name dongle on the
same Windows 7 machine, using a
driver and software file that had to be
downloaded and unzipped. The drivers seemed to install correctly, and I
could see the correct files when I went
into Device Manager -> Properties ->
Use Well-Shielded HDMI or DVI Cables With External Monitors
One thing we soon discovered when
experimenting with our DVB-T dongles
is that interference radiated from a HDMI
or DVI cable can virtually wipe out TV
reception, especially if using a small
indoor antenna.
In our case, we were using an 80cm
TV set as an external monitor for a laptop
(fitted with a USB tuner), with the two
connected together via an HDMI cable.
Because we were in a very strong signal
area, the TV set was connected to a
small indoor Yagi antenna (as pictured
earlier in this article), while the laptop’s
18 Silicon Chip
USB tuner was connected to a simple
whip antenna (as supplied).
On its own, the TV set worked well
with its little indoor Yagi. Similarly, on
its own, the laptop and its external USB
tuner worked fine from the simple whip
antenna.
However, when we connected the two
together via a cheap HDMI cable and
fired everything up, the reception was
wiped out by strong interference. This
occurred regardless as to whether we
were using the TV’s tuner to directly tune
TV channels or whether we were using
the TV as a monitor and feeding through
signals from the laptop’s USB tuner.
In both cases, this problem was
solved by using a well-shielded HDMI
cable, eg, one with quad-shielding. Using snap-on ferrite sleeves at both ends
of the HDMI cable also helped clear the
interference when watching the TV.
Using external antennas with goodquality coax may also have solved this
problem, since it’s probable that the
interference from the HDMI cable was
being radiated directly into the indoor
antennas we were using.
siliconchip.com.au
Helping to put you in Control
Control Equipment
Temperature Sensor
Reads up to 5 Dallas
DS18S20/DS18B20
temperature sensors
and/or other sensors.
Transmits readings
out a USB/RS485 serial port to a PC
KTA-280 $149+GST
Fig.13: BlazeVideo HDTV Player 6.0 tuned to SBS OneHD on a Windows 7 PC.
BlazeVideo is one of the more popular playback applications supplied with USB
TV tuners.
Driver Details. Then when I installed
the BlazeVideo HDTV Player 6.0 application and started it up, it seemed
to scan the DTV channels correctly
and I could bring them all up on the
PC’s screen (either in a window or full
screen) – but there was no sound on
ABC-24 News or 7-Mate, only a fairly
loud hum! And there was no sound
at all on GEM.
I tried re-installing BlazeVideo 6.0
again and then getting it to re-scan the
channels. When I tried it out again,
the sound on GEM had returned but
the hum was still there on ABC-24
and 7-Mate.
Another strange problem, this time
with my Windows XP (SP3) machine,
occurred when I installed the drivers
for an EzTV668 dongle and then tried
to run ArcSoft TotalMedia 3.5 to see
how they would work together. It
scanned the DTV channels fine and
they were all viewable with their correct sound.
However, when I then instructed it
to scan the DAB+ digital radio channels, it couldn’t find many of them at
all. So I got it to scan the DAB+ band
again and then it found them all. Don’t
ask me why . . .
Success is possible!
Just so you don’t get the impression
that getting these dongles working
correctly on a typical PC is overly
difficult, we show a few screen grabs
which illustrate that it can be done:
siliconchip.com.au
First, Fig.11 shows a grab taken on
my Win7 machine running ArcSoft
TotalMedia 3.5 and using the Kaiser
Baas KBA010008 dongle. It shows
the picture of ABC-24 News being
displayed in a window, along with the
various options;
Fig.12 shows another grab with the
same set-up but with TotalMedia 3.3
now receiving DAB+ radio channel
702 ABC Sydney.
For comparison, Fig.1 (on page 12)
shows a grab of Presto! PVR receiving
HDTV channel ABC News 24 on a
Windows XP/SP3 machine, using an
ExTV645 dongle. And finally, Fig.13
shows a grab from BlazeVideo 6.0
receiving SBS HDTV on the Windows
7 machine using a no-name dongle.
Hopefully these sample shots will
be enough to encourage you to get
yourself one or more of these dongles
and “give them a go”. It can be very
worthwhile, despite the risk of hassles if you don’t follow the correct
procedure.
What’s coming?
In the next article, we’ll move on
to show you how most DTV dongles
can be used with different drivers
and software, to turn your PC into a
true software defined radio or “SDR”,
capable of multi-mode radio reception over a very wide range of VHF
and UHF frequencies – and with a
built-in spectrum analyser display. So
SC
don’t miss it!
Thermocouple Card
Need to log lots of T/Cs?
Suitable for use with
Labjack U3, U6 and U9
Each card measures the temperature of
up to 8 thermocouples. K,J,N,S,T,E,R
T/Cs supported. Labjack program free.
KTA-260 $69+GST
Arduino Inventors Kit
One of our most popular
kits. Comes with a UNO
R3, baseplate, heaps of
sensors, leds and other
parts to get started in electronics
ARD-015 $93.50+GST
PID Temperature
Controller Great for
controlling ovens and
furnaces. Controls
with auto adaptive PID
algorithm. Accepts T/Cs and RTD. Relay
and pulse outputs for solid state relays.
NOC-301 $129+GST
Labjack Digit-TL
Is a temperature/light
logger which can store
up to 260,000 readings, and a battery life
of 3 years. Download data via USB
LAJ-060 Prices available soon
20A Relay Card
Relays can be switched
with TTL and open
collector signals. Use
for forward and reverse
control of a DC motor
KTB-272 $49.00+GST
Hockey Puck LED
Light 12VDC and
24VDC versions
available with 250
lumen output. It is easily mounted with 1
screw. Great for illuminating cabinets.
CSL-9020 $22.95+GST
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: 03 9782 5882
www.oceancontrols.com.au
April 2013 19
Fig.1: the browser, where you can see the cover of each
issue of the magazine from the present back to January
2004 and click on it to open and read. A preview of the
contents is displayed if you let the mouse linger over
an issue, as shown here. Clicking on an issue gives you
full access if you have purchased the online edition or
gained access via a subscription. Otherwise you get a
preview of the contents and you can view some of the
pages in the issue.
At long last! The Revamped
S ILICON CHIP Website is here!
After more than 18 months of development, our new website is on-line.
It offers page-turning versions of over 100 SILICON CHIP issues, a unified
shop with full security and encryption for subscriptions, back issues,
PCBs, microcontrollers, books and more, plus the ability to check and
update your subscription status at any time.
By NICHOLAS VINEN
O
UR WEBSITE has been totally
re-built from scratch to add many
new features (and improve on old
ones). The most important change is
that on-line issues are now viewed in
a “page-turning” format which means
that the magazine appears on-screen
exactly as it looks in the printed issue.
You now get the full content of each
magazine including all the advertisements and you can see all the photos,
diagrams and other formatting that we
20 Silicon Chip
put so much effort into each month.
As well as re-designing the website,
we have also taken over its operation
and that means we can offer a new
range of products and services. For
example, current print subscribers can
now get on-line access to the same issues by paying a small premium. Our
subscribers have been asking for this
service for several years and now we
can finally provide it. It means you can
keep your printed issues at home but
get access to them from your office or
anywhere in the world, if you want.
Another important benefit of the
new website is our integrated shop.
The shop includes subscriptions
(printed, online and combined), printed and online back issues, PCBs,
programmed microcontrollers, binders and some specialised electronic
component associated with some of
our projects. You can even renew your
subscription and purchase items from
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: when reading an issue, the contents appear in a bar down the left side of the screen while the issue appears on the
right. You can turn the page by grabbing a corner with the mouse cursor and you can also click on an entry in the contents
to jump straight to that article. Any shop items or downloads relevant to the article currently on screen are shown below
the contents with direct links.
the shop at the same time (and in most
cases, that means you will get the 10%
subscriber discount on those items
immediately).
We should point out that our existing 10% discount to subscribers
for back issues, PCBs and so on now
applies to active online subscribers
as well.
Subscriptions, online
payments & shop
You can log in to your online account and check your online and
print subscription status at any time.
When you renew, extend or upgrade
your subscription, the results are immediate. Online issues and online
subscriptions purchased using a Visa,
Mastercard or PayPal are processed
and access is granted straight away.
Credit card transactions are processed
using SecurePay over encrypted
connections and we don’t store card
numbers for added security.
We also have an online shop, linked
to the subscription system, where readers can purchase back issues, on-line
issues, PCBs, programmed microconsiliconchip.com.au
trollers, books, binders, a limited assortment of difficult-to-get parts and
anything else we may sell in future.
Active subscribers get a discount
on most items and in most cases,
we indicate whether we have an
item in stock before you purchase
it (or if not, how long you can expect to wait until we get more).
Some items, such as printed back-issues, include postage. For other items,
in most cases we have a flat rate per
order postage charge via Australia Post
(airmail for overseas orders).
The main exception is books where
a per-book fee is charged due to the
extra weight.
Getting a log in
If you are an active print subscriber
but have never logged in to our website, as long as we have your email
address on file, you can set up your
account in a minute or so. Simply visit
the website (siliconchip.com.au) and
click on the “Log in” button in the
upper-right corner. You should then
see some text under the login fields
which reads: “If you are an existing
print subscriber and don’t have a
password, click here.”
Click on the “here” and input your
subscriber number (five digits, printed
on the address sheet which arrives
with your magazine each month) and
your email address. Instructions will
then be emailed to you to allow you
to set up a login name and password.
Once you’ve done that, you can view
your subscription status (via the Account -> Manage My Account menu
option) and renew at any time.
If you aren’t a print subscriber and
have never logged into our website
(or have logged in to the old website
but never purchased a subscription or
online issues) then you can sign up for
a free account on our new site. It’s easy;
go to the login screen as above but click
on the “sign up” link. Once you have
an account you can then order items
from the shop and consider getting a
subscription.
Reading the online issue
Because the new page-turning format allows you to view the magazine
in the same format as the printed verApril 2013 21
35-45MB in medium resolution and
50-70MB in high resolution.
Because the online issues are quite
large, we have located our server on
a fast internet link (in “the cloud”). If
you have cable or DSL, most issues
should load in 30-60 seconds. It may
take slightly longer during times of
high internet congestion.
Because loading an issue takes a little while, if you’re going to re-visit it
later, you will want your web browser
to cache it. Some (such as Internet
Explorer) should do this automatically while others (eg, Firefox) have
size limits on the files they will cache
that may interfere with caching online
issues. In our FAQ (siliconchip.com.
au/Help/FAQ), we explain how to increase the size of objects that Firefox
will cache to solve this problem.
Shop links
Fig.3: you can find and purchase PCBs, programmed micros and some parts
for SILICON CHIP projects in the online shop. You can also subscribe, renew a
subscription, order a back issue or online issue and so on. Orders can be paid
using Visa, Mastercard or PayPal. Active subscribers receive an automatic 10%
discount on most items (subscriptions excluded).
sion, for best results we recommend a
high-resolution monitor. Best results
will be achieved with a 20-inch or
larger monitor with a resolution of
1920x1080 or higher (ideally, at least
1920x1200). For laptops, a 15-inch or
larger full HD (1920x1080) display is
best although smaller sizes may be
acceptable as long as the resolution
is still high.
The issue is displayed as a doublepage spread (except for the front and
rear covers). You can then flip to the
next or previous spread by dragging or
clicking the corner of the page. Alternatively, you can use the arrow keys or
page up/page down on the keyboard.
A list of articles appears in a sidebar
to the left of the issue; clicking on an
article will jump to its first page and
the currently displayed article(s) are
highlighted. Holding the mouse cursor
over one of these article links shows a
short summary of its content.
When reading an online issue, you
will get the best display in full screen
mode. This can be enabled by clicking the button which appears in the
22 Silicon Chip
lower-left corner of the screen. With
some browsers, you may need to press
the F11 key instead. This is especially
important on smaller or lower resolution monitors but may be worthwhile
for high-res monitors too.
Zooming in
For smaller or lower-resolution
screens, it will be necessary to zoom
in to comfortably read the text and
view diagrams properly. This can be
done easily using the mouse wheel
or trackpad scroll bar/gesture, which
zooms the page into the area the cursor
is currently located over. You can then
move the pointer towards the edges of
the screen to scroll around the issue. Or
you can zoom back out using the scroll
wheel, then zoom in somewhere else.
Each online issue is available in
three resolutions: low, medium and
high. The default is “low” because
it loads the fastest but if you have a
high-res display as recommended you
will probably want to turn it up to
“medium” or “high”. A typical issue
is around 20-25MB in low resolution,
One of the benefits of integrating the
online issues and the shop onto the
same site is that when you are reading
an article that has one or more associated shop items (PCBs, programmed
micros, etc), links to these items appear in the side-bar, below the issue
contents. PCB patterns, front panel
artwork and software is also kept in
the shop (for the moment, these are all
free) and so associated downloads also
appear alongside the article.
Also, when reading multi-part articles, we include links to the other
parts of that article (in other issues)
in the same location, ie, below the issue content links. That makes it easy
to jump to another part; the required
issue loads and then it opens to the
first page of that article.
Browser support
Our website has been tested with
the latest versions of Firefox, Chrome,
Internet Explorer and Safari. We have
also done our best to make it work in
older browsers as some people are
stuck with them. To view the online
issues, you will also need the Adobe
Flash plugin (which is built into some
versions of Chrome). That currently
rules out certain devices (but see below
about upcoming features). However,
for the moment, there is no valid alternative to Flash.
Many sources recommend using
HTML5 animation support instead
of, or in addition to, Flash however
currently, Adobe’s software does not
support HTML5 fully; their page laysiliconchip.com.au
out software, InDesign, has the ability
to export to Flash flipbooks but not
to HTML5 format. Also, HTML5 files
are often much larger than the same
content in Flash, up to twice the size,
and that would mean our online issues
could easily exceed 100MB.
Printing
While you can print the online issue, it doesn’t currently work terribly
well. The problem is that the Flash flipbook treats each double-page spread as
if it’s a single page. So unless you have
an A3 printer, you will have to print
in landscape mode and then the result
will be two magazine pages on an A4
sheet, resulting in a printout that’s
about 72.5% of normal size.
That’s large enough to be legible
but far from ideal. We are working on
a better printing option which will
hopefully give a full-size printout with
one page per page and will release it
to all users when it is ready.
PDFs
Some readers have asked for PDFs
of issues and we have considered this
but are reluctant to produce them. The
reason is that there are already quite a
few scanned PDFs of SILICON CHIP magazines being distributed on Internet
file-sharing sites and we’re concerned
that releasing online issues as PDFs
will only lead to a greater incidence
of this unauthorised redistribution and
other copyright breaches.
That’s a great pity because we know
that 99.9% of our readers are honest
and we understand that having PDF
issues can be convenient. So we will
continue to consider offering PDFs
based on reader feedback and may do
this in future.
Fig.4: once you have created an account on the website, you can subscribe or
renew. There are various subscriptions to choose from and if taking out a new
subscription, it is possible to select which issue you want to start with. We now
offer the ability to upgrade a print subscription to include online access for a
small extra fee. It is also possible to check your current subscription status via
the website.
Tablet/phone support
Currently our website is not designed to work on tablet computers
but we are planning to address this,
in part at least. The biggest challenge
is the small and in some cases lowresolution screens on these devices
– zooming in and panning around the
content will be virtually mandatory.
Also, many of these devices, including iPads and iPhones and some recent Android devices, do not support
Adobe Flash so we will want to come
up with an alternative way to view the
content. It probably won’t have quite
as many features as the Flash version
but we’d like to offer some sort of alsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: you can also order printed back issues from the online shop. Some older
issues are no longer available but in these cases, you can place an online order
for a photocopy of a specified article.
ternative viewer for people who can’t
view Flash content.
Once we manage to do that, we will
provide the option for readers to view
issues either way, to suit the device
they are using. It may even be possible
to automatically detect the type of
device viewing the website and select
the appropriate display method.
Article search
We offer two methods for searching
online issues, both of which may be
of help to readers who already have a
April 2013 23
Fig.6: the article content search facility can be used to find a SILICON CHIP article based on the title, author or key words in
the description field. This will search all issues back to January 2004 and the results contain links to the online versions
of those articles (preview only until the issue is purchased).
considerable catalog of printed issues.
Word search is the simplest. You
type in one or more words or phrases
and in response, get a list of articles
which contain these words, ranked
in order with the best matches first.
The results give you the year, month,
article name and a link to view the
online issue (or preview if you haven’t
already purchased it). The link takes
you straight to the article once the issue has loaded. You also get a list of
pages on which the words were found.
Content search is a bit more precise
but relies on you knowing some or all
of the details relevant to the article you
are looking for. You can select which
type of articles to search (feature, project, etc) and then enter one or more
words to look for in the name of the
article, description, authors and so on.
So for example, if you know who
the article is by but can’t remember
what it’s called, you can quickly call
up a list of all articles by that author
in order of date and then scan the list
to find the one you are looking for.
from under online subscribers who
were already used to the old HTML
format of the articles so we have preserved the website content up to the
date of the change-over (November
2012).
This website is located at http://
archive.siliconchip.com.au and allows pre-existing users to log in and
view content they have purchased.
Pre-existing users can also log in and
view the same content in the new format on the main website if they wish.
This can be done using the same login
name (email address) and password as
was used originally.
This does not apply for content prior
to 2004 as we will not be putting this
up in page-turning format.
Note though that the legacy site and
new website are separate; the legacy
site is a “time capsule”. So, for example, if you are a legacy user and change
your password on the new site, you
will still need to use the old password
to get into the legacy (archive) site.
Legacy site
We’ve already discussed future improvements to printing and to support
We didn’t want to pull the rug out
24 Silicon Chip
Future improvements
for browsing using tablets and mobile
phones. There are some other areas we
are hoping to make improvements to
later this year. Some of our ideas for
improvements include:
• The ability for searches to return
results from older issues which are
not available online;
• An option for readers to purchase
a year’s worth of online back-issues
at a discounted price (similar to the
subscription rate);
• Automatic email subscription renewal reminders and optional emails
to remind subscribers when a new
online issue is released; and
• An optional email newsletter which
we will send out from time to time
regarding upcoming projects and topical subjects
Any other suggestions or feedback
from readers are welcome.
Readers are also invited to take
a look at the website if you haven’t
already and consider activating your
account (or signing up if you are not
a subscriber) to take advantage of the
ability to check your subscription
status, renew online and order parts
SC
if you need any.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
April 2013 25
LE D
L A DY B I R D
. . . an eye-catching electronic beetle
Be the light of the party with this unique electronic
brooch. Or just build it as an interesting novelty piece.
Tired of lacklustre fake precious-stone brooches and ornaments that
have no life? Why not build a vibrant electronic brooch or ornament
instead? LED Ladybird uses high-brightness LEDs for its eyes, wings
and abdomen and it flashes these in a fetching moving pattern. Call it
LED animation if you will but it is certainly eye-catching!
By JOHN CLARKE
I
F YOU ARE AFTER something different to wear at a party or dance,
it’s hard to look past the LED Ladybird.
Suitably fitted with a clasp, you could
wear it as a brooch, or you could attach
it to a headband or maybe even use it
as an earring or pendant.
Perhaps you could just build it as a
fascinating coffee table piece, a school
project or an executive toy. Apart from
that, it’s a great little project for honing
your “surface-mount” assembly skills.
So why have we called it a “LED
Ladybird”? Well, first, because it’s
shaped like a real ladybird and second, because it incorporates LEDs.
We’ve taken a few liberties with the
colours though. A real ladybird has an
orange body with black spots but that’s
impractical for our electronic version
because there are no black LEDs.
As a result, we’ve reversed the colours, using a black PCB to make up
the body and 20 orange LEDs for the
spots. Two high-brightness red LEDs
are used for the eyes.
We’re not too sure what colour eyes
a real ladybird has but red looks pretty
good in our opinion. Besides, they
needed to be different to the orange
LEDs used for the spots.
As shown in the photos, the PCB’s
outline matches the shape of a real
ladybird beetle; ie, it’s roughly pearshaped. Along with the LEDs, we’ve
also fitted six wire legs and two antennae to the PCB, to make it more ladybird like. There’s also a pushbutton
switch to turn it on or off and it’s all
powered from a single 3V lithium cell
slung underneath the insect’s belly.
LED sequence
When you turn it on, the LEDs
flash in an intriguing and fascinating
sequence. This sequence is designed
to mimic the flapping of a ladybird’s
wings, from take-off to landing.
These four diagrams show the basic LED flashing (flying) sequence. First the red eyes come on and the orange LEDs for
the right wing flash. The left wing then flashes, then both wings and then all the LEDs flash, including those down the
middle. In practice, it’s a bit more complicated than that so take a look at the video on our website (see text).
26 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
K
K
K
DATA
K
SC
2013
K
A
A
A
LED18
LED14
A
K
K
LED9
LED20
A
K
K
A
LED13
LED11
A
K
K
LED17
LED15
Vss
17
RB0
Vss
RA0
16
RA7
13
RB7
7
3
RB1
RA4
RB2
8
S1
START/STOP
6
1
18
RA1
RA2
15
RA6
12
11
RB6
RB5
AN3/RA3
2
220
IC1
PIC16LF88–
I/SO
5
A
A
LED19
LEFT WING
CLK
K
K
A
K
K
K
K
LED22
A
LEFT EYE
LED21
A
C
RB4
10
LED16
LED10
A
RIGHT WING
K
LED7
K
LED5
K
LED6
A
A
LED4
A
LED2
A
RIGHT EYE
LED1
A
LED3
A
BODY LEDS
Q1
BC807
E
B
2.2k
9
RB3/PWM
RA5/MCLR
Vdd
LED8
K
A
A
A
A
A
14
4
Vpp
Vdd
10k
Fig.1: the circuit uses a PIC16LF88-I/SO microcontroller to control two red LEDs for the eyes and 20 orange LEDs for the wings and body. The LEDs are pulsewidth modulated to ensure constant brightness, while power comes from a 3V lithium cell.
LED ladybird
LED12
A
E
B
K
MMC
Continuous party mode
Normally, the LED Ladybird runs
through a single cycle of its entire LED
lighting sequence and then automatically switches off to save power. It can
be run again at any time simply by
pressing the pushbutton power switch.
Alternatively, it can also be set up
to continuously repeat its LED lighting
repertoire until switched off with the
pushbutton switch. This continuous
mode setting is ideal if you want to
wear the LED Ladybird to a party or
use it as a display in a shop window
or on a Christmas tree.
Switching the unit to operate in
continuous mode is easy – just hold the
pushbutton switch down for several
seconds when switching on, until the
right eye blinks off briefly.
We estimate that the lithium cell
will last for about 10 hours when the
unit is operated in continuous mode.
If you require longer than this, then
K
C
BC807
K
D1
LEDS
3V
BUTTON
CELL
1 F
D1
SM4004
K
First, the two red eyes come on one
after the other (and stay on), then the
eight central LEDs (six abdomen and
two rear) flash once in a chaser sequence. Once that’s completed, the six
orange LEDs making up the righthand
wing begin flashing, slowly at first then
gradually increasing in speed before
slowing down again.
These six right-wing LEDs then ex
tinguish and the six left-wing LEDs
repeat the sequence, after which both
sets of wing LEDs flash together. The
eight central LEDs then get in on the
act, two at time, with all LEDs on the
beetle (including the eyes) then flashing together.
After that, there’s some more fancy
footwork with the eight central body
LEDs entering a chase sequence while
the other LEDs all flash at a rapid rate.
The unit then goes into a power-down
sequence with the central LEDs going
out and the wing LEDs flashing at a
decreasing rate until they extinguish.
Finally, the eight trail LEDs and
the red eyes flash once in a chaser
sequence, from rear to centre, after
which the two eyes extinguish and
the unit automatically powers down.
Alternatively, you can switch the
unit off at any time while it is operating
by pressing the power switch.
Of course, it’s far more interesting
when you see it in action. So don’t
just rely on the written description.
Instead, take a look at the video at
siliconchip.com.au/videos/ledladybird
April 2013 27
220
Q1
2.2k
–
Vss
Vpp
1
D1
BUTTON
10k
IC1
PIC16LF88
DATA
CELL HOLDER
13130180
CLK
08103131
S1
Vdd
1 F
TOP VIEW
+
BOTTOM VIEW
Fig.2: install the parts on the PCB as shown in these diagrams and photos, starting with
IC1 and the other surface-mount devices on the bottom. The LEDs can then be installed
on the top, then the cell holder on the bottom and finally switch S1 on the top.
the unit can be powered from two AA
cells (or any other external 3V supply)
connected via a length of twin cable.
Circuit details
Take a look now at Fig.1 for the
circuit details. It’s really very simple
and uses an 18-pin PIC microcontroller
(IC1), 22 LEDs and not a lot else. All
the clever stuff is hidden inside the
microcontroller which is programmed
to control the LEDs.
As shown, the 3V supply rail (from
a lithium cell or two AA cells) is bypassed with a 1µF ceramic capacitor.
Diode D1 provides reverse polarity
protection – it conducts and limits
the voltage applied to IC1 to just -0.6V
should the supply be connected in
reverse. This diode is a 1A type if
using a 3V lithium cell but should
be upgraded to a 3A type if using an
external supply (see parts list).
Note that a Schottky diode should
not be used here. These have significant reverse leakage and would draw
tens of microamps continuously from
the cell, flattening it prematurely.
IC1, a PIC16LF88-I/SO, is a surfacemount SOIC low-power version of the
PIC16F88. This device can operate
down to just 2V. Diode D1, transistor
Q1 and the 2.2kΩ and 220Ω resistors
are also all surface-mount devices.
IC1’s MCLR input (pin 4) is tied to
the +3V supply rail via a 10kΩ resistor,
so that the micro resets at power-on.
Pin 14 (Vdd) of the micro connects
directly to the +3V rail, while on/off
switch S1 connects between its RB0
input (pin 6) and ground. This RB0
input is normally pulled high to the
+3V supply rail via an internal pull-up
resistor but is pulled low each time S1
is pressed.
Normally, IC1 is asleep, with its
28 Silicon Chip
internal oscillator stopped and the
microcontroller section not running.
This places IC1 in its lowest current
draw state. It typically draws 100nA in
this mode but we measured just 11nA
for our prototype.
Pressing S1 pulls RB0 (pin 6) low.
This wakes IC1 and starts the software
running. Pressing the switch while IC1
is running places it in sleep mode gain.
LEDs1-22 are driven directly by
IC1’s output ports, without currentlimiting resistors. This was done both
to save on the parts count and because
there’s no space for current-limiting
resistors on the PCB.
Driving the LEDs in this way is quite
acceptable provided we don’t cause
too much current to flow in the output
pins. In this circuit, the maximum supply voltage is around 3.3V (with fresh
cells) and this prevents each output
from sinking more than about 21mA.
This is within the limits allowed for
both the microcontroller’s output pins
and for the LEDs.
How do we arrive at that figure? Well,
the impedance of the output pins is
typically 70Ω and there will be 1.8V
across each LED when it is on. This
means that, with a 3.3V supply, the voltage across the 70Ω output impedance
will be 1.5V, so the current through
the LEDs will be 1.5V ÷ 70Ω = 21mA.
As the cell voltage falls, so does the
LED current. For example, at a cell
voltage of 2.2V and with 1.8V typically across the LEDs, there is just 0.4V
across the 70Ω output impedance and
so the current is just 5.7mA.
That means that the average LED
current and hence the LED brightness
would be dependent on cell voltage
unless steps are taken to prevent this.
So, to maintain a constant LED brightness independent of cell voltage, the
10k RESISTOR
DETAIL ALONG
CENTRE LINE
1 F
PCB
D1
Fig.3: this sectional view shows
how the 1μF capacitor is installed
at the rear of the PCB, with one
lead routed over the top of D1.
LEDs are driven with a variable pulse
width modulated (PWM) supply.
In this circuit, the LEDs are switched
on and off at a 1kHz rate, with the
duty cycle varied to provide constant
brightness. At a 50% duty cycle (ie,
LEDs switched on and off for equal
periods), the average LED current is
half that compared to a 100% duty
cycle (ie, LEDs switched on all the
time). So by varying the duty cycle,
we can control the average current
through the LEDs.
IC1’s PWM output is at pin 9 and
this drives PNP transistor Q1. This
transistor in turn switches the supply to all the LEDs which have their
anodes wired in parallel. This means
that the supply to the LEDs switches
off each time the PWM signal goes
high (Q1 off) and switches on when
the PWM signal goes low (Q1 on). The
duty cycle is set to produce consistent
LED brightness over the cell voltage
range from 2-3.3V.
Measuring cell voltage
In order for IC1 to correctly vary the
PWM signal, it needs to accurately
measure the cell voltage. That’s done
indirectly by first switching Q1 fully
on and taking IC1’s RB4 output (pin 10)
low to drive LED21 via a 220Ω resistor.
The resulting voltage across the 220Ω
resistor is then measured by IC1’s AN3
analog input (pin 2) and this is then
used to calculate the correct PWM duty
cycle to drive the LEDs.
siliconchip.com.au
This measurement is made at the
start of each LED flashing (or flying)
sequence (ie, when power is applied
or at the start of each sequence if the
unit is operating in continuous mode) .
Once this measurement has been
made, the RB4 output is set as an input,
AN3 is set to an output and the PWM
signal operates at the required duty
cycle. That way, LED21 can now be
driven directly by the PWM voltage at
Q1’s collector and RA3 (ie, the 220Ω
resistor is taken out of circuit). This
LED is on when RA3 is set low, while
the other LEDs turn on when IC1 sets
their respective outputs low.
Note that while the two eye LEDs
are driven independently, the remaining LEDs are driven as sets of two in
parallel. When the circuit is running
and flashing the LEDs, the current
drawn from the cell averages out at
about 8mA.
Building it
OK, let’s put LED Ladybird together.
As shown in Figs.2 & 3, all the parts
are mounted on a PCB coded 08103131
and measuring 43 x 32mm.
Start by checking the PCB for any
faults such as shorted tracks and undrilled holes. The PCB supplied by
SILICON CHIP Partshop and from the kit
suppliers will be double-sided, plated
through, solder masked and screen
printed. These are high-quality boards
and are unlikely to have any defects
but it’s always a good idea to check.
Having checked the board, begin
the assembly by installing the surface
Above: another view of our prototype LED Ladybird, along with a diagram
showing the LED numbering scheme (right).
mount parts on the underside – see
Fig.2. IC1 should go in first. This is
an 18-pin SOIC package and it’s relatively easy to solder in place due to its
0.05-inch pin spacing. You will need a
fine-tipped soldering iron, some solder
wick and (preferably) a magnifying
lamp to do the job.
The first step is to position the IC on
top of its pads, making sure that it is
orientated correctly. That done, solder
pin 1 to hold it in place, then check
to make sure that all the pins are correctly aligned with their pads. Adjust
its position if necessary, then solder
all the remaining pins, starting with
the diagonally opposite pin (pin 10).
Don’t worry if you get solder bridges
between adjacent pins during this
process; they are virtually inevitable.
Once all the pins have been soldered,
any bridges can be cleared by pressing
solder wick against them using the hot
tip of a soldering iron. This will soak
up the excess solder while leaving the
solder joint between the bottom of the
pin and its pad intact.
The 2.2kΩ and 220Ω SMD resistors
are installed next. It’s just a matter
of soldering these at one end first,
then making sure they are correctly
positioned before soldering the other
ends. Once they’re in, you can install
SMD transistor Q1.
Now flip the PCB over and install the
10kΩ resistor. This is a conventional
leaded part and it must be installed
with its ends cranked slightly as
shown in Fig.2. This resistor must also
be offset to the right, ie, the righthand
lead must be bent close to the resistor’s body.
This is necessary to ensure that,
when the LEDs are later installed, one
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April 2013 29
Par t s Lis t
1 PCB, code 08103131, 43 x
32mm (with black solder mask)
1 SPST vertical mount microswitch with 6mm actuator
(Jaycar SP-0603, Altronics
S1421) (S1)
1 20mm button cell holder (Jaycar
PH-9238, Altronics S5056)
1 CR2032 lithium cell
1 200mm length of 1.25mm
enamelled copper wire
1 40mm length of 1mm
enamelled copper wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC16LF88-I/SO microcontroller
programmed with 0810313A.
hex (IC1)
20 3mm orange LEDs, 1700mcd
(LEDs1-20)
2 3mm red LEDs, 1000mcd
(LED21,LED22)
1 BC807 (SOT-23) surfacemount PNP transistor (Q1)
1 SM4004 1A diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 1µF MMC
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 10kΩ axial lead
1 2.2kΩ SMD 1206 (3216 metric)
1 220Ω SMD 1206 (3216 metric)
Alternative external 3V supply
1 SM5404 3A diode or use an
axial-lead 1N5404 across the
supply (D1)
1 dual AA-cell battery holder
2 AA cells
1 length light-duty figure-8 wire
LED’s lead will straddle the central
section of the resistor’s body, while
the leads of the adjacent LED to its left
will be clear of the resistor end cap.
That way, the LEDs that straddle this
resistor will have their leads clear of
the end caps – a necessary precaution
to avoid possible short circuits.
Diode D1 (another SMD) can now
go in. It must be installed with its
cathode end towards the bottom edge
of the PCB (ie, towards the rear of the
Ladybird). Once it’s in, the next step
is to install the 1µF MMC capacitor in
parallel with this diode. This capacitor
will need to have its leads bent so that
it sits vertically between LEDs 7 & 8.
The top lead is then run across the top
of diode D1 (ie, between LEDs 5 & 6)
30 Silicon Chip
and soldered to the diode end adjacent
to the 10kΩ resistor.
You can now install the 22 LEDs.
These must be fitted with their cathode
leads (indicated by a flat edge on the
LED bodies) orientated as shown. Start
with the central LEDs, then work your
way outwards, as this will make the
job much easier.
These LEDs should all be stood off
the PCB by about 3mm and this can
be achieved by pushing each LED
down onto a 3mm-high spacer before
soldering its leads. Note that some of
the centrally-located LEDs will have
to have their leads soldered on the top
side of the PCB, since IC1 prevents
access to their pads on the underside.
The cell holder is next on the list.
This sits against IC1 and must be
orientated as shown in Fig.2 and the
photos. Push it down onto the PCB
as far as it will go before soldering its
positive and negative pins. The positive pin is soldered from the underside
of the PCB, while the negative pin is
soldered from the top.
The parts assembly can now be
completed by installing switch S1.
This has to be left until last, otherwise
it’s too difficult to solder the adjacent
negative pin of the cell holder.
In-circuit programming
Note that Fig.2 indicates the external
connections for Vdd, Vss, Vpp, Data
and Clock. These allow a PIC programmer to be connected if you want to
program the PIC yourself with software
downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website (ie, before the battery holder
is installed).
Alternatively, pre-programmed PICs
for this project can be purchased from
the SILICON CHIP on-line shop and will
also be supplied by kit suppliers.
Fitting the legs
The PCB assembly can now be completed by fitting the legs and antennae.
Six 25mm lengths of 1.25mm diameter
enamelled copper wire are used for the
legs, while 15mm lengths of 1mm wire
are used for the antennae.
The first step is to straighten the
1.25mm-diameter copper wire by
clamping one end in a vice and then
pulling on the other end with a pair of
pliers to stretch it slightly. That done,
cut the wire into 25mm lengths, strip
the enamel from both ends of each wire
and solder them to the spare PC pads
around the edge of the body.
The free end of each leg can then be
covered with a solder blob, to form the
feet. Once that’s done, the two 15mmlong antenna can be fitted in similar
fashion. The wires are then bent to
shape using needle-nose pliers, as
shown in the photos.
Check out
This is the easy part – simply insert
a 3V lithium cell into the holder (positive side outwards) and check that the
LED Ladybird works when switch S1
is pressed.
If it’s working correctly, the left eye
LED will appear to quickly come up to
full brightness when the cell voltage is
around 3V. As the cell voltage drops
though, this LED will initially ramp
up to a lower brightness before then
jumping to full brightness.
Basically, this jump in brightness is
small when the cell voltage is close to
3V but gradually increases to a 50%
jump in brightness as the cell voltage
drops to 2V. This provides some indication of the cell’s condition.
Once the LED’s brightness has been
set (ie, by the micro monitoring the cell
voltage and adjusting its PWM signal),
the right eye LED will come on and
then the flashing LED sequence for the
wings will start.
Single or repeat mode
As stated previously, the LED Ladybird is programmed to cycle through
its LED flashing sequence just once,
then automatically switch off. An entire cycle takes about 1 minute and 20
seconds (80s) but as mentioned, it can
be stopped at any time by pressing S1.
If you want the LED sequence to
cycle continuously, switch off, then
press switch S1 and hold it down for
several seconds until the right eye LED
blinks off briefly. When you do this, the
left eye LED will flash continuously
(to indicate continuous mode) until
S1 is released.
To go back to single sequence mode,
switch the LED Ladybird off, then
press S1 and hold it down until the
right eye flashes.
Attaching the LED Ladybird
The LED Ladybird can be easily
attached to clothing by sewing a few
cotton loops over several legs. Alternatively, if you are using a lithium cell
to power the unit, a strong rare earth
magnet can be used to “clamp” the
SC
LED Ladybird in position.
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
1
FROM MONO
MAXIMITE
15
10
14
9
13
8
12
7
11
6
BLUE
2 GREEN
S1a
TO VGA
MONITOR
3 CYAN
4 RED
5
RED 1
5 PURPLE
4
6 YELL/WHITE
3
2
1
GREEN 2
1 BLUE
2
S1b
GREEN
3 CYAN
BLUE 3
S2
1 (COLOUR)
4
RED
5 PURPLE
2 (WHITE)
4
5
6
11
7
12
8
13
9
14
10
15
6 YELL/WHITE
Splash of colour for
the regular MaxiMite
If you have already built the
original MaxiMite but are tired of
white text on a black background or
perhaps a bit jealous of the Colour
MaxiMite but can’t justify the expense of building a whole new unit,
this simple modification could be
the solution to your problem.
When using the MaxiMite with
a VGA monitor, it allows you to
change the text/graphics foreground
colour at any time to one of seven
possibilities; ie, white, red, green,
blue, yellow, cyan (green-blue) or
magenta.
The display will still be monochrome but at least you can adjust
the one available colour to your
liking. This is done using one rotary
switch (2-pole, 6-position) and one
single-pole, single-throw (SPST)
toggle switch.
The circuit is very simple. The
MaxiMite’s video output is connected to the red, green and blue
pins on the VGA connector in parallel. Since they are all driven with the
same signal, the foreground colour
of the display is a mixture of red,
green and blue in equal quantities,
which gives white.
The two new switches, S1 and S2,
are interposed between the Maxi
Mite’s VGA output and the VGA
monitor so that different combinations of the three colour signal lines
can be driven while the others are
left undriven, thus producing a different mixture of the three primary
colours for all lit pixels.
With S2 switched to the “colour”
setting and S1 in position 1, the
MaxiMite’s output line is connected
to the blue pin
Don Grimble
of the output
is this mon
th’s winner
VGA connecof a $150 g
ift voucher
tor via S1b
from
Hare & Forb
and not to red
es
or green, thus giving a blue-on-black
display. Similarly, with
S1 in position 3, the green output
line is connected to the MaxiMite
via S1a while blue is also connected
via S1b, giving a cyan-on-black
display. And so it goes for the other
four colours.
For white text, all three output
colour lines must be driven in parallel, as they would be if the VGA
cable were plugged straight into the
MaxiMite. To achieve this, switch S1
is set to position six which connects
the red and green output lines, while
S2 connects the blue line when set
into the “white” position.
The switches and DB15 male/
female connectors can be housed in
a small plastic box and connected
in-line with the VGA cable between
the MaxiMite and the monitor. If
you have room in the box and your
VGA monitor doesn’t have speakers,
you could also consider including
a small audio amplifier module,
such as the Champion (published
in January 2013), along with a small
speaker.
Don Grimble,
Marangaroo, WA.
co n tr ib u ti on
MAY THE BEST MAN WIN!
As you can see, we pay $$$ for contributions to Circuit Notebook.
Each month the BEST contribution (at the sole discretion of the editor)
receives a $150 gift voucher from Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse.
That’s yours to spend at Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse as you see fit
- buy some tools you’ve always wanted, or put it towards that big
purchase you’ve never been able to afford!
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www.machineryhouse.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
150
$
GIFT VOUCHER
Contribute NOW and WIN!
Email your contribution now to:
editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
or post to PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW
April 2013 31
Circuit Notebook – Continued
220k
K
A
LED1
4
K
3
IC1
7555
2
1nF
K
1
1k
L1: 15 TURNS OF 0.5mm EC WIRE ON
A 4mm DIAMETER PLASTIC FORMER
FM bug detector uses a
7555 as a comparator
13
12
11
K
A
K
antenna is coupled to the rest of
the circuit via an 82pF capacitor.
Inductor L1, a 15-turn coil of 0.5mm
enamelled copper wire wound on a
4mm diameter former (eg, a 4mm
drill bit), forms a broadband trap.
In the second stage, the signal
coupled from the antenna is rectified by a signal diode and filtered
by a 1nF reservoir capacitor. The
signal level is biased to about 1/3rd
the supply voltage using a resistive
divider formed by two fixed resistors
and potentiometer VR1.
The filtered signal is fed to pin
2 of a 7555 (IC1) which is used as
a sensitive comparator. It drives a
Here is a simple and sensitive
detector that can detect even very
low power FM bugs with an output
of 30mW or less at a distance of up
to four metres, although it must be
admitted that FM bugs would not be
common these days. It can also help
you adjust and peak the performance
of a transmitter you have built or just
to check and see whether it is producing RF signal within the range
of 88-108MHz.
As shown, signal picked up by
the 500mm-long lead or telescopic
14
LEDS
1N4148
A
15
9V
BATTERY
LED2
VR1
50k
FROM VGA
PORT
100 F
A
5
7
150k
L1
8
6
D1 1N4148
82pF
S1
A
LEAD
500mm
1k
330k
+5V
VERT SYNC
5
10
4
9
3
8
2
7
1
6
10k
BLUE
10k
4
7
6
1
Vdd
GP3/MCLR
GP0
GP5
2
3
IC1
PIC12F675 GP4
GP2
GP1
5
SERIAL
OUT
+5V
DATA
CLK
100 F
GND
Vss
3x
75
8
0V
Serial data
transmission over VGA
Say you have a computer or microcontroller module with a VGA
output but no serial interface and
you want to send data to an external
device. How would you go about
doing this?
One possibility is to encode some
32 Silicon Chip
serial data into the VGA signal itself.
A simple external circuit can then
decode this and use it to drive some
I/O lines. That is what this circuit
and the accompanying software
achieves.
The particular application this
was developed for is “home automation”, where a small computer with
a built-in screen can control lights,
pair of indicator LEDs connected to
its output at pin 3.
When the voltage on pin 2 is below
1/3rd the supply voltage, the output
is high and only LED2 (red) is ON.
But as the voltage exceeds this level,
the output is taken low, LED1 (green)
turns ON and LED2 turns OFF.
To set up the circuit, rotate VR1
to minimum resistance and switch
on. LED2 should be on. Now rotate
VR1 until LED1 is also partially on;
this is the optimal setting. Any RF
signal picked up by the antenna
and rectified by D1 will then cause
the voltage on pin 2 of IC1 to rise
slightly, turning LED1 on brighter
and making LED2 dimmer.
The detection range will depend
on this adjustment. With optimal
setting, a low-power transmitter
can be detected within the range of
four metres.
For the detection of more powerful transmitters, the sensitivity
should be decreased by turning VR1
down so that it has less resistance.
The other option is to use a shorter
antenna. A 300mm long antenna, for
example, will decrease the detection range by 50% (the shorter the
antenna, the less the sensitivity and
detection range).
Mahmood Alimohammadi,
Tehran, Iran. ($40)
the air-conditioner, sprinklers etc.
Data is encoded in a series of light/
dark lines incorporated into the
display which is also output on the
VGA port. These lines appear just
below the title bar of the window.
Below those horizontal bars is the
main display itself.
There are 18 lines encoding eight
bits of data at any given time. A
PIC12F675 microcontroller (IC1)
monitors the VGA blue signal via
its pin 7 input. It detects the vertical
refresh (using the vertical sync pulse
which is read by input pin 4) and
then ignores the window title bar,
which must be blue and positioned
at the top of the screen (ie, the window should be maximised).
A couple of black lines below the
title bar allow it to detect the start of
the data. The lines below those two
alternate between data synchronisation lines, which are blue and these
siliconchip.com.au
D1
1k 1W
K
5
7
A
8
4
IC1
7555
3
2
6
D3, D4:
1N4148
A
B
K
E
A
K
B
VR1
100k
C
10 F
35V
D2
K
MUR1560
100nF
10
Q2
BC327
ZD2
16V
1W
220nF
D
G
K
GND
FUSE1
7.5A
A
E
+33V
TP GND
Q1
BC337
D4
D3
1
C
A
1N4004
ZD1
12V
1W
10 F
16V
100nF
10nF
K
S
OUT
Q3
MTP3055
MTP3055
A
MUR1560
D
BC327, BC337
NOTE: COMPONENT VALUES
SHOWN IN RED ARE
THOSE CHANGED FROM THE
NOVEMBER 2008 CIRCUIT
D3,D4: 1N4148
A
Dimmer for Christmas
light LED strings
Many Christmas Light LED strings
typically work with the supply voltage of about 33V DC. This is fine if
you want them to work at full brilliance outdoors at night but if you
want them indoors they can be too
bright.
This circuit is a variation of the
12V Speed Controller/Lamp Dimmer
D1, ZD1, ZD2
K
K
B
E
published in the November 2008
issue of SILICON CHIP and will dim
the LEDs to a comfortable setting. As
shown, the circuit uses a 7555 timer
(IC1) to generate variable width
pulses at about 210Hz. These pulses
drive Mosfet Q3 via transistors Q1
& Q2 to control the LED brightness.
In essence, the only changes to the
original circuit are to increase the
100Ω resistor in series with diode D1
to 1kΩ 1W and increase the rating of
are followed by the data lines which are blue for a 1-bit and
black for a 0-bit. The decoded data is output as serial data
from output pins 2 & 3 which are data and clock respectively.
These could be sent to another microcontroller, a UHF serial
link or something similar.
The whole circuit is powered from a 5V DC supply which
could be from a USB port or perhaps a plugpack.
Note that this circuit shows the VGA lines being terminated
with 75Ω resistors which is appropriate if the VGA port is
only being used to decode the data, ie, there is a separate
display used for viewing (such as the laptop’s internal LCD
screen). If you want to use the same VGA port to connect to
a monitor and also for serial data, you would not terminate
the lines (ie, omit the 75Ω resistors) as this is already done
in the monitor.
The software for the PIC as well as Visual BASIC software
to generate the display can be downloaded from the SILICON
CHIP website. Advanced readers who want to try building
this circuit could also consider modifying the software to
allow IC1’s two unused input pins to sense the state of the
red and green VGA lines, allowing the same amount of data
to be encoded in fewer lines on the display.
David Ward
Kapiti, NZ. ($60)
siliconchip.com.au
A
G
C
D
S
K
A
the 10µF 25V supply filter capacitor
to 35V. The MTP3055 Mosfet (Q3)
is rated at 60V and will therefore
run happily at the increased supply
voltage.
No heatsink should be necessary
for Q3 since LED strings do not
draw much current. Fuse F1 could
be reduced to 1-2A.
The design is still available as a kit
from Altronics, Cat. K6008.
SILICON CHIP.
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This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every
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in this
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April 2013 33
SILICON
CHIP
PARTSHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest SILICON CHIP project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re after.
Or a pre-programmed micro. Or some other hard-to-get “bit”. The chances are they are available direct from the SILICON CHIP PARTSHOP.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP has established the PARTSHOP. No, we’re not going into opposition with your normal suppliers – this is
a direct response to requests from readers who have found difficulty in obtaining specialised parts such as PCBs & micros.
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Best of all, those boards with fancy cut-outs or edges are already cut out to the SILICON CHIP specifications – no messy blade work required!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
JAN 1993
06112921
Price:
$25.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PCB CODE:
Price:
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
PUBLISHED:
SEP 2011
01109111
$25.00
$30.00
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
SEP 2011
01309111
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
04103073
$30.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981
$10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
16110111
$30.00
MINIMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
APR 2001
06104011
$25.00
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
23110111
$30.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021
$10.00
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
08110111
$30.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031
$10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
01111111
$30.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031
$25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODUL
NOV 2011
01111112
$25.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041
$10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
01111113
$10.00
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041
$25.00
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
04111111
$20.00
LITTLE JIM AM TRANSMITTER
JAN 2006
06101062
$25.00
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
07111111
$10.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061
$25.00
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
APRIL 2006
01104061
$25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111
$30.00
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061
$25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
0121211P2/3 $20 per set
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061
$25.00
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121
$10.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (A) (IMPROVED)
MAR 2007
04103073
$30.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121
$30.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
MAR 2007
04103072
$20.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071
$25.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2
$30 per set
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071
$20.00
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121
$20.00
CDI MODULE SMALL PETROL MOTORS
MAY 2008
05105081
$15.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081
$10.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121
$40.00
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER (Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec 2010 [18112101])
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122
$40.00
JAN 2009
10101091
$45.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123
$75.00
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091
$35.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121
$10.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
APR 2009
10104091
$10.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112
$20.00
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
MAY 2009
04205091
$10.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121
$10.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
MAY 2009
04105091
$35.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04104121
$20.00
APR 2012
04104122
$20.00
JUNE 2009
07106091
$25.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
AUG 2009
15008091
$10.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012 10105122
$35.00
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
AUG 2009
15008092
$45.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
MAY 2012
21105121
$30.00
MAY 2012
SEPT 2009
04208091
$10.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels
21105122/3
$20 per set
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
JAN 2010
01101101
$25.00
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01106121
$20.00
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
JUN 2010
04106101
$25.00
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
24105121
$30.00
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
AUG 2010
04108101
$55.00
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
08109121
$10.00
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
SEP 2010
04109101
$25.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
04106121
$20.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
SEP 2010
01209101
$25.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
04106122
$20.00
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210101
$10.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
05106121
$20.00
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210102
$10.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD
JULY 2012
05106122
$10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
OCT 2010
16110102
$45.00
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
10107121
$10.00
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
NOV 2010
01111101
$25.00
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
03107121
$20.00
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
DEC 2010
04112101
$25.00
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
10108121
$10.00
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
DEC 2010
18112101
$10.00
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
04108121
$20.00
433MHZ SNIFFER
JAN 2011
06101111
$10.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
24109121
$30.00
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
JAN 2011
99101111
$30.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
24109122
$30.00
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
JAN 2011
01101111
$30.00
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
25108121
$20.00
LED DAZZLER
FEB 2011
16102111
$25.00
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
07109121
$20.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
FEB 2011
14102111
$15.00
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
09109121
$10.00
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
FEB 2011
06102111
$5.00
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
03110121
$5.00
THE MAXIMITE
MAR 2011
06103111
$25.00
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
09110121
$10.00
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
MAR 2011
18103111
$15.00
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
16110121
$25.00
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MAR 2011
04103111
$25.00
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
16110121
$20 per set
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
MAR 2011
01209101
$25.00
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
01108121
$30.00
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
APRIL 2011
01104111
$25.00
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
01108122
$10.00
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
APRIL 2011
04104111
$10.00
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
05110121
$10.00
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
APRIL 2011
13104111
$10.00
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
04109121
$10.00
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
MAY 2011
01105111
$30.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)
DEC 2012
10105122
$35.00
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
MAY 2011
11105111
$25.00
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB)
JAN 2013
01109121/2
$10.00
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
MAY 2011
12105111
$10.00
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
19111121
$10.00
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
JUNE 2011
11106111
$25.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
04111121
$35.00
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
JUNE 2011
07106111
$25.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
04111122
$15.00
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
JUNE 2011
19106111
$25.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
04111123
$45.00
USB BREAKOUT BOX
JUNE 2011
04106111
$10.00
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
21102131
$20.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
JULY 2011
01107111
$25.00
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
12110121
$10.00
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
JULY 2011
04107111
$25.00
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
04103131
$10.00
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
JULY 2011
20107111-4
$80 per set
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
16102131
$5.00
VOX
JULY 2011
01207111
$25.00
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
01102131
$40.00
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
34 Silicon Chip
AUG 2011
01108111
$25.00
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
AUG 2011
04108111
$15.00
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
SEP 2011
04109111
$25.00
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
01102132/3 $30.00
siliconchip.com.au
04104131
$15.00
08103131
$5.00
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
SEP 2011
01209111
$5.00
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NOTE: These listings are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
AND NOW THE PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS, TOO!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or
contributed projects may not be available.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and some selected
older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Pream (Nov11) Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
PIC12F675
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
PIC18F4550-I/P
PIC18F14K50
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
Intelligent Dimmer (Apr09)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-April 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
ATMega48
Stereo DAC (Sep-Nov09)
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
PIC18LF14K22
PIC18F1320-I/SO
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
IGBT to suit High Energy Electronic Ignition (Nov/Dec12) – $10.00 + p&p
ISL9V5036P3
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required and the project for which it must be programmed.
Other items currently in the PartShop:
P&P – $10 Per order within Australia.
G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER SHORT FORM KIT
AUG 2011/NOV 2011
$44.50
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 MOSFETS)
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC to play!)
n/a
$62.00
TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD896 or 898)
JAN 2012
$33.00
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 3-WAY
JAN 2012
$4.50
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 2-WAY
JAN 2012
$3.45
Prices include GST and are valid only for month of publication of these lists; thereafter are subject to change without notice. *Note: P&P is extra ($10 per order in Australia).
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04/13
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04/13
CLASSiC DAC Pt.3
Third article has the full PCB layout &
the assembly details
Last month, we described all the features of the CLASSiC DAC and
how it works in some detail. Now it’s time to put it together and get it
going. There are quite a few parts to install, so let’s start building it.
T
HE CLASSiC DAC is built on two
PCBs: a main PCB coded 01102131
(157 x 198mm) and a front-panel PCB
coded 01102132 (219 x 35mm). A third
PCB coded 01102133 (219 x 35mm) is
used for the rear panel and the entire
assembly is housed in a standard lowprofile instrument case measuring 225
x 165 x 40mm.
Fig.11 shows the parts layout on
the main PCB. This holds most of the
parts, including all the SMDs which
must be installed first. Alternatively,
if a kit is made available, the PCB will
probably be supplied with the SMDs
pre-loaded. So if you are building one
of these kits, you can skip the following section and move straight on to
fitting the through-hole components.
36 Silicon Chip
There are five fine-pitch SMDs to
install but if you are careful and follow
our instructions, you should be able
to reliably hand-solder them. Start
with ICs1-3 and IC7, all of which are
in similar Shrink Small Outline Packages (SSOP), although IC7 has 20 pins
while the rest have 28.
First, remove one of the chips from
its protective packaging and place it
alongside the appropriate set of pads
with the marked side up. Check the
part code with a magnifying glass to
ensure it’s going in the right place and
find the small divot or dot in the corner which indicates pin 1. Once you
have located it, gently rotate the part
so that this dot lines up with the pin
1 indicator on the PCB layout.
We’ve described SMD soldering
techniques on a number of occasions
in the past so we’ll just cover the
basics here (for more information, refer
to pages 80 & 81 in the June 2012 issue of SILICON CHIP). You will need a
soldering iron with a reasonably fine
tip (medium conical or chisel is fine),
good quality solder of 0.7mm diameter or less, solder wick, flux paste,
tweezers, a desk lamp or other strong
source of light, a magnifier of some
sort and ideally, a syringe of flux paste
(“no-clean” type if possible).
Start by carefully applying a tiny bit
of solder to one of the IC pads. If you
are right-handed it’s generally best to
start with the upper-right pad or if you
are left-handed, the upper-left. Then,
siliconchip.com.au
By NICHOLAS VINEN
using tweezers, slide the chip into
place while heating the solder on that
pad. That done, remove the iron and
check that the part is correctly orientated and that it is centred on its pads.
All pins must be over their corresponding pads and not too close to an
adjacent pad. In particular, check that
the IC is not rotated too much, ie, the
pins should all be parallel to their pads
(you will require a magnifying glass to
check this properly). If the position
isn’t good enough (it rarely is on the
first attempt), reheat the soldered pin
and gently nudge the chip into place.
Once it’s correctly aligned, solder the
diagonally opposite pin.
It’s a good idea to now recheck the
orientation of the IC and, if necessary,
reheat that second pin since it’s easy
to rotate the chip slightly during the
soldering process. You can then solder
the rest of the pins, starting at one of
the other corners. Don’t be concerned
if you bridge some of the pins during
siliconchip.com.au
this process, as that can be easily fixed
up later.
Once all the pins have been soldered, refresh the solder on the first
couple of pins you soldered.
Now use solder wick to clean up
any bridges. A dab of no-clean flux
paste applied to the bridge beforehand
makes this a lot faster and easier. In
fact, we recommend applying flux
paste along both edges of the IC and
then cleaning the pins up with solder
wick even if there are no apparent
bridges as this reduces the chance of
bad joints.
When finished, carefully examine
the chip under magnification to ensure
that no bridges are left (also check the
top of the pins, where they enter the
IC package). It’s also a good idea to
examine the area where the pins are
in contact with the PCB pads to ensure
that the solder has flowed onto the
pads properly.
Repeat this procedure for the other
three SSOP ICs. Once they are all in
place, the remaining flux paste can
be removed from the PCB and the ICs
using isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free
cloth. However, this isn’t strictly necessary if you used no-clean flux paste.
Remaining SMDs
The only remaining fine-pitch chip
is microcontroller IC5. This has a similar pin pitch to the aforementioned ICs
(slightly smaller, in fact) and it also has
pins on all four sides. The soldering
technique described above works just
as well for this device but you will
need to be extra-careful to check the
alignment of the pins on all four sides
before you solder the second pin.
Note that the pin 1 dot is in one
corner and a corresponding dot is
shown on the PCB, just outside the
quad flat-pack outline.
The next job is to solder the small
outline integrated circuit (SOIC) parts.
These include IC8 (14 pins), REG4
April 2013 37
The main PCB holds most of the parts, including all the ICs
(some surface-mount), the connectors, the volume control,
the headphone socket and the SD card socket.
Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
18
1
6
8
7
3
6
1
6
2
7
2
1
7
3
6
2
1
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
3kΩ
1.5kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
750Ω
470Ω
240Ω
180Ω
100Ω
75Ω
22Ω
10Ω
2.2Ω (5%)
(8 pins) and the six dual Mosfets (8
pins). These are much easier to install
than the previous ICs, as their pins are
further apart.
However, while their pins are
spaced widely enough to be soldered
individually, it’s easier and more
reliable to use the same technique
38 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange black red brown
brown green red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
violet green brown brown
yellow violet brown brown
red yellow brown brown
brown grey brown brown
brown black brown brown
violet green black brown
red red black brown
brown black black brown
red red gold gold
described above; ie, apply a generous
amount of solder to all the pins, then
clean up the joints using solder wick
and flux paste to remove any solder
bridges.
REG5 goes in next and it has an
even wider pin spacing so you should
be able to solder its pins individually
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange black black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
violet green black black brown
yellow violet black black brown
red yellow black black brown
brown grey black black brown
brown black black black brown
violet green black gold brown
red red black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
not applicable
without bridges. That done, install
the five SMD ceramic capacitors but
be careful to let the first joint solidify
before you try to make the second,
otherwise surface tension can pull the
part out of place.
The last SMD part to fit is the SD
card socket which may or may not
siliconchip.com.au
220 µF 35V
100nF
Q16
Q10
BC337
1k
2.2Ω
10k
D8
IRF7309
CLASSiC DAC
D9
REG3
7805
REG1
7815
10k
1k
REG2
7915
1M
192kHz 7-input Stereo DAC
with SD Card Playback
& Headphone Amplifier
10k
CON13
1
A
k
Sw
Sw
To Power Switch
LED8
LED7
LED6
22k
100k
470Ω
1.5k
22k
100k
100k
22k
100k
22k
100Ω
LED5
ICSP
1
22k
100k
LED4
100nF
CON11
On
Off
100nF
1
22k
100k
LED3
10Ω
dsPIC33FJ128GP306T
3.0k
10k
LED2
100nF
IC5
LED1
10 µF
100k
4004
VR1 10k LOGx2
Q15
VR2 2k
BC337
1k
3.0k
10k
CON10 SD Card
Power On
Auto-sel
IR codes
Stby. LED
IC8
74LV74
Q13
1 µF
100k
4004
Headphones
100nF
MKT
100nF
S2
D2
10V
Q11
LEDs
(green) 220 µF
1
2
3
4
REG5
100 µF 100nF
25V
4004
D4
470 µF 16V
1M
100 µF
100 µF 100nF
Q12
REG4
100k
5819
1k
22 µF
D1
D3
47 µH
0.5A
LK1 5V
D7
D5
L5
D6
100nF
+
4004
100nF
Q14
BC559
Si4804
22 µF
+
4004
AP5002
LK2 (3.3V)
100 µF
ZD6
10 Ω/L9 *
100nF
100nF
L6
470 µH
0.5A
4.7k
470 µF
220 µF 25V
4004
330pF
33pF
33pF
100k
100k
1.2k
100nF
JP1
5V 3.3V
MIC39100
–3.3
4004
470Ω
1 µF
100 µH
100 µH
1 µF x2
10 µF 10 µF 10 µF
4004
33pF
X1
IC2
2
L3
L2
CON9
9VAC
33pF
10V
22Ω
22Ω
100nF
X2
27MHz
100nF
12MHz
PCM2902E
L7
100 µH
3
2
1
L1
RX1
1
4
3
2
1
10 µF
+
RX2
1 µF
1 µF
100nF
3
2
1
22µH
100nF
RX3
1.5k
22Ω
22Ω
2.2Ω
100nF
3
USB
1M
100k
CON1
100nF
10nF
GND
10
100nF
0nF
MKT
BC327
100k
100 µF
100nF
4.7k
CON8
10 Ω/L8 *
BC3 2 7
K1
K2
K3
K4
ZD8
Q7
Q9
VR3 2k
470Ω
180Ω
100 µF
100 µF
CON5
4.7k
4.7k
IC3
CS4398CZ
100k
47k
10V
ZD5
BC337
Q8
CON12
A
1
ZD7
22Ω
C 2013
01102131
100pF
100Ω
10k
GAIN (R)
100 µH
IC7
In4
75Ω
12dB
0dB
L4
10V
22Ω
Q6
100nF
JP3
PLL1708
CON2
BC559
100pF
100 µF
CS8416-CZ
In5
75Ω
IC4
LM833
GND
2x 100 µF
4.7k
BC327
GAIN (L)
100k
IC1
75Ω
CON3
10nF
10nF
10nF
10nF
10nF
100nF
10nF
220nF
1k
10nF
10nF
10nF
100k
10k
100k
4.7nF
240Ω
470Ω
22nF
470Ω
100Ω
In6
12dB
0dB
Q3
Si4804
BC337
Q5
100nF
JP2
100nF
10 µF
Si4804
4.7k
4.7k
18V
100nF
1k
3.0k
10k
18V
2x10 µF
50V
100k
100nF
100 µF 100nF
220nF
ZD2
ZD1
2x 100 µF
100nF
1.5k
Left Out
6.8nF
Q1
Si4804
Q4
BC559
4.7nF
100nF
47 µF
10 µF
10nF 50V
100Ω
CON6
220 µF
IC4
LM833 1.5nF
220 µF
100Ω
1.5k
750Ω
CON7
47 µF
100Ω
Q2
1.5k
Si4804
Right Out
470Ω
240Ω
470Ω
22nF
18V
100Ω
1.5k
750Ω
ZD3
6.8nF
ZD4
18V
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
100nF
IRD1
1M
Fig.11: the parts layout for the main PCB of the CLASSiC DAC. Nearly all the parts are mounted on this PCB and all parts
are installed on the top side of the board. The DAC IC circuitry is at upper-left, with the headphone amplifier at upperright. The digital audio receiver is below the DAC and then further down is the USB audio chip (IC2) and below that, in
the bottom-left corner, the power supply. The control circuitry, including microcontroller IC5, is at mid to lower-right.
Errata: if you find that one or more of the TOSLINK input LEDs light up when there is no signal present, a 30pF
capacitor can be installed across the empty pair of pads near the TOSLINK receivers.
come pre-soldered in a kit. This has
two small plastic posts which fit into
holes on the PCB. Remove the internal
plastic frame which protects it during
transport. You should find that it won’t
siliconchip.com.au
move much once the posts go in the
holes and it’s then just a matter of carefully soldering the SMD pins one at a
time, starting with the two large ones
on either side near the edge of the PCB.
It’s probably a good idea to check
its orientation after soldering the first
pin to make sure it’s properly aligned
with the edge of the PCB. There are
11 pads to solder on the inside of the
April 2013 39
CLASSiC DAC Par t s Lis t
1 main PCB, code 01102131, 157
x 198mm
1 front panel PCB, code
01102132, 219 x 35mm
1 rear panel PCB, code 01102133,
219 x 35mm
1 low-profile instrument case, 225
x 165 x 40mm (Altronics H0474,
Jaycar HB5972)
4 100µH axial RF chokes (L1-L4)
1 47µH 500mA+ bobbin inductor
(L5)
1 470µH 100mA+ bobbin inductor
(L6)
1 22µH axial RF choke (L7)
1 10kΩ dual-gang 16mm log
potentiometer with D-shaft (VR1)
1 knob to suit VR1 (eg, Altronics
H6211)
2 2kΩ mini horizontal sealed
trimpots (VR2,VR3)
1 12MHz HC-49 crystal (X1)
1 27MHz HC-49 crystal (X2)
1 4-way DIP switch (S2)
3 3-way pin headers with shorting
blocks (JP1-JP3)
3 16Mbps TOSLINK receivers
(RX1-RX3)
3 black switched PCB-mount rightangle RCA sockets (CON1CON3)
1 PCB-mount right-angle type B
USB socket (CON5)
1 white switched PCB-mount rightangle RCA socket (CON6)
1 red switched PCB-mount rightangle RCA socket (CON7)
socket plus the two aforementioned
mounting pins on either side and two
at the rear.
Now make a final inspection of all
the SMD joints since it’s going to be
harder (although by no means impossible) to fix any solder bridges or bad
joints later when the adjacent throughhole parts have been fitted.
Through-hole parts
Now fit all the 0.25W resistors. It’s
a good idea to check their values with
a DMM beforehand since it can often
be hard to distinguish certain colours.
There are about 90 resistors, so it will
take some time to install them.
The diodes are next on the list. Make
sure that you don’t get the four different types mixed up and check that they
40 Silicon Chip
1 PCB-mount 6.35mm jack socket
with long pins (CON8)
1 PCB-mount DC socket (CON9)
1 Oupiin PCB-mount SD card socket
(CON10) [Altronics P5720]
1 5-way pin header, 2.54mm pitch
(CON11)
1 5-way polarised pin header,
2.54mm pitch (CON12)
1 4-way polarised pin header,
2.54mm pitch (CON13)
1 5-way right-angle polarised pin
header, 2.54mm pitch (CON14)
1 4-way right-angle polarised pin
header, 2.54mm pitch (CON15)
2 5-way polarised plugs with crimp
pins
2 4-way polarised plugs with crimp
pins
1 200mm length 10-way ribbon/
rainbow cable
1 infrared receiver (IRD1) [Jaycar
ZD1952, Altronics Z1611A]
1 panel-mount momentary pushbutton switch with integral LED
(S1) (Altronics S0933)
2 8-pin DIL sockets
1 2m length 0.4mm diameter
enamelled copper wire
1 40mm length 10mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 60mm length 0.7mm diameter
tinned copper wire
3 M3 x 6mm machine screws with
nuts and shakeproof washers
6 No.4 x 6mm self-tapping screws
or M3 x 6mm machine screws
are orientated as shown on the layout
diagram. Virtually all of the diodes go
in with their cathode stripe towards
the front of the PCB (ie, right side on
the diagram) but two of the 10V zeners
are installed the other way around, so
be careful with those.
Now fit the five axial inductors,
noting that L7 has a different value
from the other four. Follow with the
two 8-pin DIL sockets for IC4 and
IC6 (orientate the notches as shown),
then solder crystals X1 (12MHz) and
X2 (27MHz) in place (don’t get them
mixed up).
Follow with the three TO-220 reg
ulators. In each case, bend the pins
down through 90° 6mm from the body
and then attach the tab to the PCB
using an M3 x 6mm machine screw,
1 9VAC 0.67A plugpack (Altronics
M9231)
1 universal infrared remote control
(optional; Altronics A1012
suggested)
1 high capacity SD/SDHC/SDXC
card (optional)
Semiconductors
1 CS8416-CZZ digital audio
receiver [TSSOP-28] (IC1)
[element14 1023452, Digi-Key
598-1124-5-ND)
1 PCM2902E USB audio IC
[SSOP-28] (IC2) [element14
8434700, Digi-Key 296-129865-ND)
1 CS4398CZZ 24-bit 192kHz DAC
[TSSOP-28] (IC3) [element14
1023397, Digi-Key 598-10675-ND)
2 LM833N/LM833D dual op amps
(IC4,IC6)
1 dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT
microcontroller programmed
with 0110213B.hex [TQFP-64
package] (IC5) [element14
1294837, Digi-Key*]
1 PLL1708DBQ clock generator
[SSOP-20] (IC7) [Digi-Key 29614183-5-ND]
1 74LV74D dual flip-flop IC [SOIC14] (IC8) [element14 1085356,
Digi-Key 568-7663-1-ND]
1 7815 15V 1A linear regulator
(REG1)
1 7915 -15V 1A linear regulator
(REG2)
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator
(REG3)
shakeproof washer and nut. Do the nut
up tightly and then solder and trim the
three pins. Note that each regulator is
a different type.
You can now fit the small signal
transistors, bending their leads with
small pliers to fit the pads. There are
three different types, so match them to
the type numbers shown on the PCB
and parts list.
The 4-way DIP switch can now be
fitted, with its “ON” marking matching
that on the board. Once it’s in, install
VR2 & VR3, followed by the MMC,
ceramic disc and MKT capacitors.
Large inductors
You now need to wind the two
output inductors (L8 & L9, near headphone socket CON8) onto the 10Ω 1W
siliconchip.com.au
1 AP5002S switchmode regulator
[SOIC-8] (REG4) [element14
1085356, Digi-Key*]
1 MIC39100-3.3WS or
LM3940IMP-3.3 LDO regulator
[SOT-223] (REG5) [element14
1556715/9779280, Digi-Key 5761172-ND/*]
5 Si4804CDY dual N-channel
Mosfets [SOIC-8] (Q1,Q2,Q13,
Q15,Q16) [element14 1779273,
Digi-Key*]
3 BC559 PNP transistors (Q3,Q4,
Q14)
4 BC337 NPN transistors (Q5,Q7,
Q8,Q10)
3 BC327 PNP transistors (Q6,Q9,
Q11)
1 IRF7309 dual N+P channel Mosfet
[SOIC-8] (Q12) [element14
9102175, Digi-Key*]
8 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D5, D7-D9)
1 1N5819 1A Schottky diode (D6)
4 18V 1W zener diodes
(ZD1-ZD4)
4 10V 1W zener diodes (ZD5-ZD8)
6 blue 3mm LEDs with diffused
lenses (LED1-3,LED5-7)
[Seeed Studios]
1 yellow 3mm LED with diffused
lens (LED4)
1 red 3mm LED with diffused lens
(LED8)
4 green 3mm LEDs with diffused
lenses (LED9-LED12)
Capacitors
3 470µF 16V electrolytic
2 220µF 35V electrolytic
3 220µF 25V electrolytic
resistors. To do this, cut a 1-metre
length of 0.4mm-diameter enamelled
copper wire and strip 3-4mm of the
insulation from both ends using a
sharp hobby knife or fine emery paper.
That done, tin both ends, then solder
one end to the lead of a 10Ω resistor,
as close to the body as possible.
It’s then just a matter of carefully
winding the wire around the resistor
body; they normally narrow in the
middle which helps keep the windings
in place. Wind the turns as close together and as neatly as possible. Once
you have wound on as many turns as
you can fit, start a new layer in the
opposite direction and repeat until
you’ve used up all the wire.
The first couple of layers can be
pretty neat but you will probably find
siliconchip.com.au
2 220µF 10V electrolytic
2 100µF 25V electrolytic
12 100µF 16V electrolytic
2 47µF 16V electrolytic
2 22µF 25V SMD ceramic, size
4832/1812
10 10µF 50V electrolytic
1 10µF 6.3V SMD ceramic, size
3216/1206
6 1µF MMC
2 220nF MMC
2 100nF 50V X7R SMD ceramic,
size 3216/1206
28 100nF MMC
2 100nF MKT
2 22nF MKT
10 10nF MMC
2 10nF MKT
2 6.8nF MKT
2 4.7nF MKT
2 1.5nF MKT
1 330pF ceramic disc
2 100pF ceramic disc
4 33pF ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
4 1MΩ
2 750Ω
18 100kΩ
7 470Ω
1 47kΩ
2 240Ω
6 22kΩ
1 180Ω
8 10kΩ
7 100Ω
7 4.7kΩ
3 75Ω
3 3kΩ
6 22Ω
6 1.5kΩ
1 10Ω
1 1.2kΩ
2 10Ω 1W 5%
6 1kΩ
2 2.2Ω 5%
* Note: catalog number for DigiKey components listed are the
same as the part type code
that the last couple are a bit messy.
This doesn’t matter; just keep the turns
tight and make it as neat as you can.
Once the winding is finished, solder
the free end to the other lead of the
resistor, again adjacent to the body.
Finally, slip a 15mm length of 10mmdiameter heatshrink tubing over the
inductor and shrink it down using a
hot-air gun to hold the windings firmly
in place.
It should now be possible to bend
the resistor’s leads down close to its
body and solder the part in place. This
process is then repeated for the other
resistor/inductor. The orientation isn’t
critical, although it’s preferable to install them with their windings going
in the same direction.
The two pre-wound bobbin induct
Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
22nF
10nF
6.8nF
4.7nF
1.5nF
330pF
100pF
33pF
µF Value
0.22µF
0.1µF
0.022µF
0.01µF
.0068µF
.0047µF
.0015µF
NA
NA
NA
IEC Code EIA Code
220n
224
100n
104
22n
223
10n
103
6n8
682
4n7
472
1n5
152
330p
331
100p
101
33p
33
Component Change
Since publishing the circuit last
month, we have decided to change
the value of RF inductor L7 from
100μH to 22μH (bottom of Fig.4, p21,
March 2013). That’s because the
resulting lower DC resistance of the
inductor improves the unit’s immunity
to severe power supply noise which
may be coupled in via the host PC’s
power supply (whether it is a desktop
or laptop).
This change is reflected in the
parts list and PCB overlay published
this month.
ors (L5 & L6) can also now be fitted. Note that while these may look
identical, they have different values.
If they aren’t marked and you don’t
know which is which, the lower value
inductor should have a substantially
lower DC resistance as measured with
a standard DMM.
Install the four pin headers next,
followed by the USB socket (CON5),
the electrolytic capacitors, the DC
power socket (CON9) and the TOSLINK receivers (RX1-RX3). The RCA
sockets can then go in but make sure
these sit flat against the PCB and are
perpendicular to the adjacent edge
before soldering their pins.
In fact, it’s best to solder one pin of
each RCA socket first, then carefully
adjust each socket before soldering
its remaining pins. Use black sockets
for CON1, CON2 & CON3 (the S/PDIF
inputs), a white socket for CON6 and
a red socket for CON7.
Finishing up
The next step is to test fit headphone
April 2013 41
Designing The CLASSiC DAC’s PCB
W
E DON’T normally go into much
detail describing the PCB layout,
other than to present the overlay diagram. But since this is one of the more
complex and demanding PCBs we have
designed, we thought it was worth going over it quickly to explain the salient
points of the design.
We decided from the outset to place
the power supply on the opposite side
of the PCB to the analog circuitry to
minimise the chance of rectifier buzz or
other power supply noise from getting
into the analog paths. As a result, the
power supply is located at the left rear
of the PCB, while the analog outputs
are at right rear, with the digital audio
circuitry in between.
It was then immediately clear that with
the power input socket at the left side of
the rear panel and the analog outputs
at right, the seven digital input sockets
had to be spaced out between them.
The logical place for the headphone
socket and volume control was then
on the right side of the front panel, to
minimise the distance that the analog
signal had to travel from the DAC chip
to the headphone amplifier.
It’s preferable to have the power
switch at one end of the front panel so
this then had to go on the left, with the
status LEDs and SD card socket in the
middle.
socket CON8 and potentiometer VR1
on the PCB. Push these parts down as
far as they will go, then check that the
headphone socket’s entry hole lines
up with VR1’s shaft. Provided you’ve
used the socket specified in the parts
list, it should be correct.
On the other hand, if the socket is
too low, you will need to swap it for a
slightly different type which has wide
pins emerging from the bottom of the
plastic housing which then narrow to
go into the PCB holes.
Assuming you do have the right
socket, install it now, making sure that
it sits flush against the PCB.
Before soldering VR1 into place,
first check the distance between its
threaded screw section and the Dshaped profile of the shaft. If it’s like
the one we used and there is only a
2mm cylindrical shaft section, then
you can leave it as it is. However, if the
42 Silicon Chip
With all the main component locations
determined, that just left the routing of
the tracks. In doing this, we used three
overriding principles to guarantee good
performance: (1) join the digital and
analog grounds at one point only (ideally, in the power supply); (2) minimise
any radiation from the digital tracks; and
(3) if possible, use a star earth for the
analog ground tracks.
We ended up joining the two sets of
ground tracks at two different points.
However, they are both close together,
near the TO-220 regulators, and due
to the thickness of the ground planes
and numerous vias joining the top and
bottom layers, there is no measurable
digital noise coupling into the analog
grounds.
EMI from the digital circuitry was
minimised by filling all the spare areas
around and under digital tracks with copper ground planes. These are studded
with dozens of vias between the top and
bottom ground planes, thereby minimising the impedance through which
ground currents flow. By doing this, the
loops through which digital currents flow
are kept very small and so very little
magnetic radiation is produced which
could otherwise couple into nearby
analog tracks.
In addition, all the SMD ICs have a
ground fill underneath them on both
flat section stops much further from
the screw thread, you will need to file
the rear section of the shaft flat. This
can be done by holding the shaft in a
vice and then using the flat section as
a guide to file the rest down.
Now cut the shaft at exactly 10mm
from the screw thread using a hacksaw
and clean up the edges with a file. That
done, file a small area of passivation
off the very top of the pot body. Do not
breathe the dust during this process
(wear a face mask) and be sure to wash
your hands after cleaning up, as it may
be plated with cadmium which is a
heavy metal.
The pot can now be soldered to the
PCB. Once it’s in, solder a length of
tinned copper wire to the adjacent
pad marked “GND”, then bend it over
the top of the pot (ie, over the section
you filed clean) and solder it to the
pad marked “GND” on the other side.
layers. For the critical ICs, such as the
digital audio receiver, DAC, USB-toS/PDIF converter and clock generator, a zig-zag of vias is placed directly
under the chip to provide even better
earthing. This does the same job for
the internals of the IC as the copper fill
does for external tracks, ie, it minimises
electromagnetic coupling into, out of
and between the parts inside the chips.
Ground planes are also used under
some parts in the analog section but
these have been carefully designed
so that they provide a star earth. The
left and right channels have separate
ground fills between the line output
sockets and they join near the copper
fill under the DAC IC. The DAC’s ground
is then connected straight to the ground
pin of the headphone socket, where the
headphone amplifier and volume control
grounds are also joined.
A single track then runs from this
point back down the middle of the board
(along with the other power supply tracks
which must run its length) and then down
to where the digital and analog earths
are joined.
To further reduce the chance of any
switched loads generating EMI which
could affect the analog section, the LED
brightness is not controlled by PWM
(except in standby mode when the DAC
is off). Instead, multiple microcontroller
outputs and current-limiting resistors
are used to control the currents through
the LEDs.
Finally, solder this wire to the top of
the pot as well, so that the metal body
is grounded.
Preparing the case
It’s easier to install the remaining
components with the board in the case
but first, some of the plastic posts must
be removed from the base. Begin by
checking which way around the board
goes – it only fits one way since the
posts are not symmetrically arranged
– then remove any posts which don’t
correspond to a mounting hole on the
PCB (ignore the four right next to the
taller posts).
You can remove the unwanted posts
by filing them down or cutting/levering
them off with side-cutters and pliers.
There are two at the front to get rid
of (ie, under the SD card socket and
headphone socket) and three at the
rear (the middle three along the edge).
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
01102132
That completes the main PCB assembly; now for the front panel board.
Fig.12 shows the parts layout on this
PCB. Starting by fitting the two rightangle polarised pin headers. These are
surface-mounted so install them in a
similar way to the SMDs; ie, place a
generous amount of solder on one of
the pads, heat this solder and then
slide the header into place. Make sure
it’s the right way around and sitting flat
before soldering the remaining pins.
The four green LEDs are also surface-mounted but first their leads must
be bent to suit. Start by bending them
through an angle of about 100° right
This view shows the completed front-panel PCB. The square cut-out at the bottom provides access to the SD card, while the two large holes at left are
for the volume control pot shaft and the headphone socket.
LED12
LED11
LED9
LED10
k
k A
k A
k A
A
Front panel assembly
Fig.12: follow this diagram to mount the parts on the rear of the front-panel PCB; ie, four green LEDs, two polarised connectors (CON14 & CON15) and
the illuminated power switch. Take care with the orientation of the connectors; they face in opposite directions. The front-panel PCB is connected to
the main PCB via two cables.
Sw
k
A
Sw
+
1
1
A
K1
K2 CON14
K3
K4
Fitting the LEDs
You can now fit the eight LEDs
along the front of the main PCB. The
first step is to bend their leads down
through 90° about 1mm back from the
lens. Do this so that the longer (anode)
lead will go through the hole marked
“A” on the layout diagram. Check each
LED carefully, then trim both leads on
each device to about 14mm.
LED1 can now be fitted to its PCB
pads and its lens slipped into its corresponding hole in the front panel.
Make sure the lens is pushed all the
way into its hole, then tack solder the
leads to the pads on the top of the
PCB. Repeat this process for the other
seven LEDs, making sure that you use
a yellow LED for LED4 and a red LED
for LED8 (the others are all blue LEDs).
Now do the same for the infrared
receiver (IRD1), except that its leads
should first be trimmed to protrude
around 8mm below its plastic body.
Once these parts are in, undo the
mounting screws along the front edge
of the main PCB, remove the assembly
from the case and separate the two
boards. You can now finish soldering
the LEDs and IR receiver to the bottom of the PCB and trim any excess
lead lengths.
Sw
k
A
Sw
CON15
Now remove any nuts and washers
from the pot and headphone socket
and slip the front panel over their
shafts. That done, lower the assembly
into the case, guiding the front panel
into its slots. Check that the main
board sits flat on its mounting posts
on the base, then secure the board in
place by fitting self-tapping screws to
the four mounting holes behind the
front panel.
Note: M3 x 6mm machine screws
can also be used here, although you
will have to use some force to cut a
thread in the plastic posts the first time
you install them.
up against the rear of the lens, so that
the longer (anode) lead is on the left
as shown in Fig.12. That done, bend
the leads back parallel to the rear of
April 2013 43
This view shows the completed assembly from the rear with the top cover removed. The two audio output sockets are
at left, then the three S/PDIF (coaxial) inputs, the USB audio input and the three TOSLINK (optical) inputs. The power
socket (to connect a 9VAC plugpack) is at far right.
the lens so that with the LED pushed
through its hole in the front panel,
the leads sit flush against the surface
of the PCB.
Finally, trim the LED leads to 6mm
and solder each one to its pads. Be sure
to push the rear of each lens firmly
against the panel while soldering (eg,
use a small screwdriver), so that each
lens protrudes fully from its frontpanel hole.
That just leaves the power switch.
Mount it in position and tighten its nut
so that the sides are roughly vertical,
as shown in Fig.12. This is necessary
so that when it is installed in the case,
the IR receiver can fit next to it.
It’s now just a matter of running four
wires from the switch tabs to the their
corresponding PCB pads. You can use
ribbon cable or light-duty hook-up
wire for this job. Note carefully the
orientation of the “+” and “-” symbols
at the rear of the switch.
Making the two cables
Fig.13 shows how to make the two
cables that connect the PCBs together.
These are made up using 4-way and
5-way lengths of ribbon cable.
Note that while you should ideally
crimp both the insulation and the bare
wire as shown, you can get away with
just soldering the wires here, as there
will be little stress on the cables. It’s
much easier than crimping but you
will still need to at least partially crimp
the insulation with small pliers so that
the pins fit into the plastic blocks.
It’s a good idea to hold the pins
Final assembly
Now for the final assembly. This
first involves fitting the front and rear
panels to the PCB, slipping the entire
assembly into the case and installing
the seven mounting screws. The assembly is then completed by plugging
in the two cables, attaching the four
rubber feet (supplied) to the bottom of
the case, installing the washer and nut
on the pot and finally, fitting the knob.
2150
More to come
CS 8
1
CS
9
80mm
60mm
flat
Fig.13: here’s how to make the two short connecting cables. It’s a good
idea to flow a little solder into the crimp joint which holds the bare copper
strands to ensure they can’t be pulled out, even if the crimps fail. Check
that the pins are flat and straight after soldering, then push them into the
moulded plastic blocks using a small screwdriver until they click in place.
44 Silicon Chip
in an alligator clip stand while you
solder them. Make sure they are held
rigidly so that they don’t move during
soldering.
Once you’ve attached the pins to
the cable, use a small jeweller’s screwdriver to push them into the plastic
blocks until they click into place. If
you have to get one out again, use the
same screwdriver to push in the small
protruding tab through the hole in the
plastic block while pulling it out.
That’s all we have space for this
month. Next month, we will go
through the procedure for testing and
setting up the CLASSiC DAC. We will
also go over some of the more interesting and important points of the
software (firmware) design.
Finally, we will give details on how
to use the unit, including the remote
control set-up and the advanced conSC
figuration set-up.
siliconchip.com.au
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April 2013 45
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• Size: 300(L) x 20(W) x 9(H)mm
ST-3918
FROM
BA15D 3 x CREE® LED
SAVE $30
Satellite Finder with LED Display
NEW
ZD-0513 $19.95
Linkable LED Strip Light
SAVE $20
Replacement CREE® LED glass globes
for your car, caravan, or boat.
BA15D CREE® LED
1995roll
12900
CREE® LED Glass Globes
• 12VDC
$
$
11900
$
• 1W/5W switchable output power
• Splash proof housing
• LCD backlit display
• One-touch emergency channel 16
• Main body size: 130(L) x
60(W) x 35(D)mm
DC-1096
• Size: 25mm x 3600mm
NA-2829
6.5" IP55 40WRMS
10m PS-4182 $19.95
15m PS-4184 $29.95
20m PS-4186 $39.95
SAVE $200
Designed for quick plumbing repairs, sealing hoses
in your car/truck/boat, coating the ends of rope,
wrapping tool handles, emergency o-ring seals or to
insulate electrical wiring. Tightly wrap
the tape for a quicker bond.
• Sold as a pair
• 2-way speaker, IP55
• Completely moulded in high
density UV resistant plastic.
• Size: 90(L) x 48(W) x
31(H)mm
LS-3302
00
Silicone Rescue Tape
At last, speakers for your boat
that will never rust. No metal
grills, all plastic. Will work in
any outdoor environment,
however best to keep out of
direct weather.
• Size: 215(W) x 155(H) x
115(D)mm
CS-2479 was $149.00
999
$
Rust Resistant
Speaker Systems
5" IP55 30WRMS
Powerful 5W hand-held
transceiver covers all
International VHF marine
channels. Features a
detachable antenna so it can be
connected to a larger antenna
mounted on a boat.
To order call 1800 022 888
SL-3914
SL-3911
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2013.
AUTO & OUTDOORS
Wireless Tyre Pressure
Monitoring Kit
Slim Ballast HID Kits for Cars
HID provides far greater light output than standard automotive lights.
This series of kits all feature a slim ballast design for ease of
installation in engine bays and tight spaces.
Unevenly or inadequately
inflated tyres can cause
steering alignment
problems. This device fits 4
sensors to your tyre stems that feed PSI data to a 12VDC
monitor inside the car helping you to know when you
need to take action to inflate them back to a desired level.
• 12V 6000K • Ballast size: 85(L) x 61(W) x 15(H)mm
H1 Slim Ballast HID Kit
H3 Slim Ballast HID Kit
H4 Slim Ballast HID Kit
H4 Slim Ballast HID High/Low Kit
H7 Slim Ballast HID Kit
SL-3490
SL-3492
SL-3494
SL-3495
SL-3496
$49.95
$49.95
$49.95
$79.95
$49.95
Bike Head Torch
FROM
4995
$
• Suitable for vehicles designed
for 30-42PSI
• Sensor size: 23.5(Dia.) x 15(H)mm
QP-2298
Reversing Camera with 5”
LCD Monitor - Wired
Providing up to 700 lumens
of intense white light, this
head torch is the ideal safety
addition for any cyclist.
Mains charger included.
• Includes handle bar bracket
• Modes: High, low, flashing
• Burn time: 20hrs on low
brightness
• Size: 60(L) x 46(Dia.)mm
ST-3464
NEW
NEW
9900
$
Keep Track of your Car, Truck or Boat
An easy to setup and
affordable all-in-one
reversing camera kit.
Includes a slimline 5"
LCD monitor, a
powerful suction
mount bracket, and a
tiny reversing camera to
be mounted at the rear
of the vehicle.
Car Cigarette Lighter Socket
Power and charge four of your gadgets while on the
road. Mounting hardware included.
19
199
$
00
Locate and track the whereabouts of your vehicle in real
time via the Internet on a computer or Smartphone. Insert
a GSM Sim card (not included) and hide the device away.
It works by sending the vehicle's GPS coordinates via the
GSM network to the free online tracking
service, which shows the location on
Google Maps®. It can also SMS
CREE® Rechargeable Torches
longitude and latitude coordinates to
Tough, military grade torches featuring the CREE®
up to 3 mobile phones. See website
XM-L LED for superior light efficiency and brightness.
for full features and specifications.
They are sealed to protect against water, dust, and
dirt, perfect for the next adventure.
• 12-24VDC
• Size: 68(L) x
• Light modes: High, medium, low, flashing, SOS
48(W) x
• Includes 2 x rechargeable batteries & mains charger
20(D)mm
$
00
750 Lumen CREE® XML
LA-9011
• Size: 230(L) x 55(Dia.)mm
ST-3482
149
Check the voltage output of a car's battery quickly
and easily. Simply plug this handy voltmeter into the
cigarette lighter socket and get an instant readout.
• Display resolution: 0.1V
• Operating voltage: 8 - 30VDC
QP-2220
1995
$
NEW
5995
$
2500 Lumen 3 x CREE® XML
• Size: 220(L) x 55(Dia.)mm
ST-3484
NEW
11900
$
Outdoor Power
FROM
Briefcase Solar Chargers
1995
$
Great for keeping a car battery topped up while on holidays or in storage. Three sizes
for small, medium and large cars or 4WDs. Each terminates in a cigarette lighter plug or alligator clips.
12V 2W Charger
• Size: 304(L) x 185(W) x 17(H)mm
ZM-9036 $19.95
12V 4W Charger
• Size: 445(L) x 237(W) x 17(H)mm
ZM-9037 $34.95
12V 7W Charger
• Size: 492(L) x 335(W) x 18(H)mm
ZM-9038 $59.95
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
ZM-9037
19900
$
• 12VDC plug with 1.2m lead
• 4 x 12VDC socket outputs
• 1 x 5VDC 1A USB port
• 10A max
$
95
PS-2019
• Camera cable length: 2m
• LCD size: 127(L) x
82(W) x 15(D)mm
• Bracket size: 133(H) x
65(Dia.)mm
QM-3741
Car Battery Monitor
NEW
LED Torch with Radio & Charger
An extremely handy rechargeable
torch for your next
camping trip.
Features 3 bright
white LEDs, an AM/FM
radio, as well as a personal
alarm in case of emergency.
NEW
$
2995
• Includes 1 x USB MicroB,
1 x USB MiniB, 1 x Nokia
plug adaptors
• Size: 136(L) x 48(W) x 34(H)mm
ST-3357
Windscreen Mounting "Black Box"
This 5" touch screen LCD fits onto a windscreen and
features a built-in camera to record vision
through the windscreen as you drive,
MP3 player and FM radio to entertain,
GPS navigation function*, movie player,
photo viewer, e-book reader and
much more. See website for
features & specifications.
• 800 x 480 resolution
• Rechargeable for portable use
• Built-in GPS antenna
• Supports microSD upto 8GB
and MMC cards
• Windows CE
• 3.5mm stereo audio output
• Size: 134(W) x 83(H) x 13(D)mm
QV-3812
NEW
16900
$
*Note: Mapping software not included but can be purchased
directly from GPS mapping solution companies online.
150W Inverter with USB Outlet
Plugs directly into your vehicle's cigarette
lighter socket to deliver 230VAC at 150
watts. Comes with a USB port to charge
or power USB operated device.
• Modified sine wave inverter
• 12VDC
• Size: 150(L)mm
MI-5125 was $44.95
Limited stock. Not available online.
1995
$
SAVE $25
April 2013 47
www.jaycar.com.au
3
POWER
Power up your Batteries
140A Dual Battery Isolator Kit
Allows two batteries to be charged from
your engine alternator at the
same time. The isolator
automatically engages and
disengages depending on
the charge condition of the
start battery. Supplied as a full kit.
• Isolator size: 67(L) x 67(W) x 53(H)mm
MB-3686
Dual Battery Isolator available as a
standalone unit NEW MB-3685 $79.95
1995
• Size: 80(L) x
76(W) x 33(D)mm
MP-3671 $29.95
MP-3677
NEW
13900
$
Intelligent 5 Stage Battery
Charger
Charge and maintain 12V batteries with this
microprocessor controlled charger. Features reverse
polarity protection, overheat protection, voltage
compensation, fan cooling and more. 5 stage
charging (soft start, bulk charging, absorption, float
and pulse).
• Suits WET/Flooded, GEL, AGM,
MF, VRLA, Calcium type lead
acid rechargeable batteries
• Size: 230(H) x 170(W) x
140(D)mm
MB-3625
MB-3603
FROM
NEW
49
$
95
These range of switchmode power
GET
supplies offers higher efficiency and
20% OFF
reliability. Features overload protection ADVERTISED
and current limitation, screw down
PRICE
terminals and strong metal case.
MP-3104
FROM
• Voltage: 240VAC, 50Hz
• Size: 180(H) x 135(D) x 124(W)mm
MS-4044
SLA Battery Boxes
Suit 40Ah SLA batteries
HB-8100
2495
NEW
2995
$
HB-8100
Suitable for Dimmable LED Bulbs or Incandescent lights.
• Push ON/OFF or rotate to adjust light level.
• Operating Voltage: 200-240VAC,1A
• Maximum Power: 200W
• Configuration:
NEW
Leading Edge
$
95
or Trailing Edge
PS-4084
LightningTM Plug to 30-Pin Apple® Socket Lead
WC-7729 $14.95
HB-8102
$
Suit 100Ah SLA batteries
WC-7727 $14.95
200W Mains Dimmer Switch
7995
$
NEW
LightningTM Plug to 30-Pin Apple® Socket Adaptor Lead
95
NEW
Protect your batteries with these sturdy boxes . Perfect for mounting in your boat, trailer or caravan.
Includes mounting clamps and lid strap to secure the box properly in place.
USB Charge & Sync
Lead to suit
LightningTM Socket
Connect Lightning™ connector
devices such as the iPhone 5® or
iPad mini® to any USB port for
charging or data syncing.
• Cable length: 1m
WC-7728
WC-7726 $14.95
54
$
SAVE $50
Mains Power Adaptor
with RCD for Caravans
LightningTM Plug to 30-Pin Apple® Socket Adaptor
MP-3118
19900
$
NOTE: Suitable for 12V or 24V solar arrays only. A 12V solar array
cannot be used to charge a 24V battery.
A range of adaptors suitable for connecting the
iPhone® 5 and other Apple® devices using the new
Lightning™ connector to peripherals that use the
30-pin Apple® connector such as iPhone® docks,
etc. We also have a model that converts the
Lightning™ adaptor to Micro-B USB.
Home Lighting
24
• 360W (12V) or 720W (24V)
• Size: 205(L)mm
MP-3735 was $249.00
LightningTM Plug Adaptors
$79.95 MP-3109
$84.50
$109.00
$109.00
$109.00
$219.00
NOTE: These are not stand alone
units. They have exposed 240V terminals.
They are meant to mount inside secure,
earthed cabinets.
9995
$
HB-8102
25W 12V
MP-3102 $54.95
25W 24V
MP-3103 $54.95
40W 12V
MP-3104 $69.95
40W 24V
MP-3106 $69.95
60W 12V
MP-3107 $74.95
60W 24V
MP-3109 $74.95
60W 5V & 12V Dual Output
MPPT technology
uses DC to DC
conversion to
extract the absolute
maximum charging
power from your
solar panels.
Features 3-stage
battery charging,
twin timer programming, 30A load control with
automatic load disconnection/reconnection, and
much more. Suitable for 12V
or 24V systems.
Convert your 15A caravan
power lead to fit a 10A
power outlet. Features a
10A circuit breaker/RCD
in case you accidentally
overload the device. Ideal
for overnight park on a
property that does not
have a 15A power outlet.
MB-3606
Switchmode Power Supplies
Incandescent Replacement
Globes
$ 45
Drop-in replacement halogen globes
that will fit standard bayonet or
Edison screw fittings. SL-2795
• Comes in pack of 2
42W Edison Screw SL-2795 $2.45
42W Bayonet
SL-2796 $2.45
100W also available. See staff or check online
To order call 1800 022 888
2
NEW
1495
ea
$
NOTE: All units are for charging and syncing only.
48 Silicon Chip
4
FROM
$
12VDC 3A Car Adaptor
with USB Outlet
6/12V 3-Stage MB-3603 $49.95
12V 3.8A 5-Stage MB-3604 $79.95
MP-3108
100W 12V MP-3121
150W 12V MP-3110
150W 15V MP-3112
150W 24V MP-3114
240W 13.8V MP-3118
NEW
• Size: 99(L) x 41(W) x 31(D)mm
MP-3677 $19.95
High tech SLA battery chargers for automotive,
workshop or industrial use. All feature switchmode
operation, multi-stage maintenance and
charging plus microprocessor
control. See website for
individual model
specifications.
• Built-in EMI filter
Use your car's cigarette lighter socket to power or
charge a variety of portable electronic devices.
12VDC 1.5A Car Adaptor
Multi Stage Battery Chargers
• Short circuit and reverse
polarity protection
• Anti-spark
protection
• Dust & splash
proof (IP rated)
• Safe to leave connected
for months at a time
MPPT Solar Charge Controller
Car Power Adaptors
Each
NEW
1495
$
Mains COB LED Downlights
These high quality GU10 mains
voltage LED downlight globes
feature a 6W "chip-on-board"
(COB) LED module that produces
over 500 lumens of brilliant light.
• 6W, 240VAC
60˚ Cool White ZD-0625 $29.95
60˚ Warm White ZD-0626 $29.95
NEW
2995
ea
$
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2013.
TOOLS
Testers
Multi-Function Circuit Tester
Designed to test the electrical system of 12/24V
vehicles and sends voltage to components to test
functionality without jumper wires. It also tests
polarity, voltage, short/open status, lights and more.
• Size: 240(L) x 78(H) x 40(W)mm
$
95
QM-1494
49
Cat III Insulation Tester/Multimeter
Suitable for high voltage insulation testing up to 4
gigaohms at up to 1000V. It also has AC/DC
voltage and low resistance multimeter
functions. Moulded storage case and
holster included.
169
$
00
• 4000 count
• Cat III 1000V
SAVE $30
• Analogue/
digital display
• Bargraph, backlight, test hold
& lock function
• Size: 200(L) x 92(W) x 50(D)mm
QM-1493 was $199.00
• Piezo ignition
• Up to 500˚C
• Size: 148(L) x 35(W)
x 23(D)mm
TH-1604
Keyring Screwdriver
Butane gas 150g: NA-1020 $5.95
$
2495
Attach it to your keys. Great for
opening some mobile phones, glasses
watches, or other gadgetry.
250
$
NEW
FROM
295
$
49
$
95
Use in a variety of applications such as air quality monitoring
in traffic tunnels, fermentation process control, fire control systems, mining etc.
• Good CO2 sensitivity
• Operates over wider temp/humidity range
• Long term stability and reproducability
• Element behind stainless steel mesh
RS-5600 was $59.95
2995
$
SAVE $30
Also available: Gas Sensor Alcohol Fume RS-5605 $13.95
See website for datasheets
See website for specifications
A wide viewing angle of standard 16 character with a 2 line LCD display.
QP-5517 was $24.95 now $14.95 save $10.00
LCD Panel with Backlit
QT-2304 was $199.00
• 8:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Auto data hold
• Temperature range: -30˚C to +260˚C
• Size: 131(H) x 96(W) x 35(D)mm
QM-7215
Carbon Dioxide Gas Sensor
LCD Panel with Wide View Angle
• Comes complete with leads
and insulated alligator clips
RR-0700 was $29.95
Safely measure temperature in hot, hazardous, or
hard to reach places with the built-in laser pointer
directed at the surface. Provides several readings
within seconds. Compact and easy to
use with carry case included.
Black, slim design, gold plated 3.5mm
plugs for audio applications.
LCD Panel Meters
Great for experiments or
selecting the best resistance
for a circuit. Select from 36
values ranging from 5 ohms
to 1M ohms.
• Size: 57(L) x 4(Dia.)mm
TD-2086
NEW
Glasses
not included
2995
$
Resistance Wheel
Economy Non-Contact
Thermometer
Slimline Stereo Plugs
PP-0134 $4.95
• Drivers 105mm long
TD-2069
• Size: 114(H) x 74(W) x 29(D)mm
6
3.5mm 4-Pole Gold Plug
Great for general heating,
drying, melting, soldering,
heat shrinking etc.
1995
$
SAVE $10
Produces sine, square, and triangle waveform signals with output frequency adjustment from
1Hz to 1MHz with maximum amplitude of 8Vpp. Features a function to shift between two
frequencies over an adjustable period. With a backlit LCD, inbuilt rechargeable battery, and
durable rubber surround it is an ideal instrument for testing on the
go or in your workshop. See website for specifications.
$
00
Pushbutton Switch 6A<at> 250VAC
Neon IP56.
NEW
• DPST
$ 95
SP-0751
PP-0132 $2.95
Microscopic fasteners with ergonomic
colour coded handles for easy
identification. See website for
contents.
1MHz Handheld Function
Generator
Pushbutton Switch
3.5mm Stereo Gold Plug
3-in-1 Function Heat Blower
and Soldering Iron
15 Piece Micro Driver Set
Featuring a LED backlight, wide viewing angle of
standard 16 characters with 2 line LCD display.
QP-5518 was $29.95 now $19.95 save $10.00
FROM
14
$
95
SAVE $10
Dot Matrix Display
Large character size LCD. Can be viewed from further distances.
QP-5520 was $39.95 now $24.95 save $15.00
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
179
SAVE $20
Soldering Needs
Temperature Controlled
Soldering Iron
Adjust the temperature between 200 - 450˚C using the
dial on the handle, high enough for silver soldering if
needed.
• 30W 240V
• Plated long-life tip
TS-1540
Spare tips available separately
TS-1542 $4.95
2995
$
Pro-Gas Soldering Tool Kit
A portable, self-igniting butane powered gas soldering
iron tool kit that produces a 1300˚C adjustable flame
for low end brazing, tin/plastic melting, automotive
repair work, welding and heat shrinking. Plastic carry
case included.
• 80-100 min operating time
• Torch size: 236(L) x 37(D)mm
TS-1113
Spare tips & butane gas available
separately.
6995
$
Goot Soldering Station
Precision, Japanese manufactured instrument with
excellent temperature stability and anti-static
characteristics. It has a digital temperature adjustment
from 200 to 480˚C at 65W and a
00
lightweight soldering pencil. See $
website for full specifications.
299
• Power: 70W
• Operating
voltage: 24VAC
• Control size: 146(L) x
115(W) x 98(H)mm
TS-1440
April 2013 49
www.jaycar.com.au
5
HOME ENTERTAINMENT
Portable Music
Dual Channel UHF Wireless Microphone System
Suitable for professional and stage use, this UHF wireless microphone system features 16 user-selectable
channels on each microphone input to provide interference-free transmission. It also
has phase locked loop (PLL) circuitry for frequency stability. Output is either via
separate balanced line for each channel, or via an unbalanced 6.5mm mono line
with the two channels signals mixed. See website for full specifications.
• Mains power supply and 2 microphones included
• Size: 420(L) x 210(W) x 45(H)mm
AM-4120 was $349.00
29900
$
SAVE $50
DVD/CD Player with 5 Disc Changer
Features a 5 DVD/CD changer which
enables to load 4 discs while the other
one is playing. Mains powered and also
has karaoke function.
34900
2.4GHz Wireless Amplifier System
Send crystal clear audio from your Hi-Fi or portable
music device to speakers up to 20m away without
messy wiring. Connect your speakers to the spring
terminals and power using the included power
supplies or by batteries. Supplied with 2 x 150mm
3.5mm curly cables to connect
your audio source.
Home Theatre Power Board
Protect all home theatre equipment by connecting
them to this powerboard as well
as current protection
via the 10A resettable
in-built circuit breaker.
• 8 surge and spike
protected outputs
• 2 x USB outputs (Total 2A)
MS-4024 was $49.95
• Power output: 15WRMS
x 2 (into 4 ohms)
• Transmitter and receiver
requires 8 x AA batteries each
• Size (transmitter and receiver):
156(L) x 45(H) x 95(W)mm
AR-1895 was $129.00
3995
$
SAVE $10
10900
$
SAVE $20
iPod®/iPhone® & iPad®
Includes dock with charge port, full function
IR remote control, AV
& USB cables.
$
95
Features HDMI video output,
stereo audio jack and USB port.
The dock includes IR remote
control, audio and USB cable and
two silicone cases for protection.
• Composite video
and stereo audio output
• 30-pin Apple® connector
• Size: 88(W) x 74(L) x 19(H)mm
WC-7715
iPhone® not included
• 30-pin Apple® connector
• Supports up to 1080p video
resolution
• Size: 72(W) x 68(L) x 28.5(H)mm
WC-7717
iPad® not included
Docking Station for iPhone® & iPod®
39
House Party
• ILDA software or DMX control
• Control mode: Sound active,
automatic, DMX (6 channels),
master/slave
• Mains powered
• Size: 270(L) x 80(W) x 174(H)mm
SL-3438 was $399.00
6995
$
$
SAVE 100
$
SAVE $20
NOTE: This item is NOT AVAILABLE in Western Australia Stores.
19" Rack Mount DMX Controller
Control multiple DMX devices, such as lights, dimmers, fog machines or laser shows with preprogrammed scenes
such as fade, pan, strobe, colour etc. Rack-mountable and mains powered.
• 9V plugpack included
• Size: 482(W) x 133(H) x 70(D)mm
SL-3429 was $149.00
11900
$
SAVE $30
50 Silicon Chip
6
To order call 1800 022 888
3995
$
Ultra Slim LED/LCD TV Bracket
Tilt, pan and swivel for
maximum viewing flexibility.
Allows 15˚ of tilt and 180˚ of
swivel only 32mm from the wall.
Solid aluminium and steel
construction for
stable installation.
• 1.5m length
• HDMI 1.3 compliant
WQ-7401
9900
$
SAVE $20
14
$
95
BUY 4 for
$40 SAVE
$19.80
Ideal for studios, PA,
sound reinforcement,
IT, or phone systems
installations, with a size
and configuration to
suit any application.
6U Enclosures
14900
29900
• Output: 2 x 2WRMS,
1 x bass booster
• 5VDC power in
• Size: 155(L) x 71(W) x 38(H)mm
XC-5220 iPhone® not included
19” Rack Mount Enclosures
• Mains powered
• Size: 205(L) x 80(W) x
145(H)mm
SL-3436 was $169.00
$
Place your Smartphone or iPod Touch® on top of this
speaker to wirelessly amplify the music playing from
its loudspeaker. Powered
either by batteries (not
included) or via USB.
The plug on each end rotates through 180˚ to
accommodate whatever
installation challenge
you have.
Produces over 100 green patterns with sound
activation or DMX master/slave
control. Ideal for bars, clubs, house
parties or family functions.
The unit comes with pre-programmed displays and
characters, but with the use of ILDA (International Laser
Display Association) software you can add PC control to
create cartoon, letters, figures or other
characters. Software is not included.
3995
$
HDMI Lead with Rotating Plugs
Green DMX Laser Show
ILDA Animation Laser Show
• Wireless range of up to 8m
• Output: 2 x 2WRMS
• Size: 211(L) x
56(W) x 53(H)mm
XC-5205 iPhone® not included
• 642mm at full extension
• Load capacity up to 25kg
• Universal and VESA compliant
CW-2852 was $119.00
Play Movies from your Apple® Device HDMI Docking Station for
Share and play music, videos from an Apple® device on a
big screen. See website for device compatibility.
Amplify and improve the quality of the audio playing from
your device by pairing it to this Bluetooth® speaker.
Runs on 4 x AAA batteries (not included) or via USB.
Near Field Audio
Wireless Speaker
$
• USB, SD/MMC card reader for playback
• Component, SVideo and composite video output
• Audio output connectivity
• Size: 496(L) x 416(W) x 152(H)mm
AA-0489
Portable Bluetooth® Speaker
HB-5170
• Size: 530(W) x
360(H) x 450(D)mm HB-5172
HB-5170 was $179.00
now $159.00 save $20
9U Enclosures
• Size: 530(W) x 493(H)
x 450(D)mm
HB-5172 was $219.00
now $199.00 save $20
12U Enclosures
• Size: 530(W) x 626(H)
x 450(D)mm
HB-5174 was $259.00
now $229.00 save $30
HB-5174
FROM
15900
$
SAVE $20
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/04/2013.
TECH LIFE STYLE
Audio Docks
Portable Stereo for iPhone®/iPod®
Portable, versatile and suitable for use in a small room
or on the go. Simultaneously charges the
iPhone®/iPod® via USB.
• Dual 2” full
range drivers
• Requires 4 x AAA
batteries for
portable use
(does not charge
iPhone®/iPod® in this mode)
$
• 30-pin Apple® connector
• Size: 256(W) x 115(H) x 70(D)mm
AR-1889
Note: iPhone® not included
6995
2.4GHz Wireless Stereo
Speaker System
Stream audio wirelessly from the base station to the
rechargeable speakers. iPhone® and iPod® dock on
board and USB transmitter for computer connection.
Speaker recharge when
placed on the base.
• 2 x 3W satellite
speakers
• Dock for
iPhone®/iPod®
• Range: up to 30m
• Remote control
$
00
• 30-pin Apple® connector
• Base unit size: 335(L) x
Note: iPhone® not included
148(W) x 28(H)mm
• Speaker size: 120(L) x 107(W) x 129(H)mm
AR-1887
169
Portable Presentation Console
eFlash allows you to present
common Microsoft Office
applications without
the need for a
computer. It
connects easily to
a projector or TV and is
operated by the included
remote control with integrated
laser pointer. Presentations are played from an SD
memory card.
• Auto slide show
• Displays up to 640 x 480
• Size: 103(L) x 115(W) x
53(H)mm
XC-5405
5495
$
Jaycar - No. 1 for Kits
Jacob's Ladder MK3 Kit
Ref: SC Magazine Feb 2013
A spectacular rising ladder of bright and noisy
sparks for theatre special effects or to
impress your friends. This improved circuit
has even more zing and zap than it's previous
design from April 2007 and requires the
purchase of a VS Commodore 12V ignition
coil (available from auto stores and parts
recyclers). Kit supplied with silk-screened
PCB, diecast enclosure (111 x 60 x 30mm),
pre-programmed PIC, PCB mount components
and pre-cut wire/ladder. Powered from a 12V
7Ah SLA or 12V car
battery (not included).
$
95
KC-5520
Wi-Fi Remote Wireless IP Camera
The smallest IP camera we've ever seen! With its wireless network interface, the
camera allows you to stream and record audio video images over your network or
directly to your Smartphone (iPhone® or Android® devices) and laptop on the go.
Powered by a CR2 battery (included).
9995
$
• 640 x 480 resolution
• Size: 30(Dia.)mm
QC-3368
QC-3369
Cradle and adaptors available separately QC-3369 $29.95
Add a Network Port to your
MacBook® or Ultrabook®
For MacBook Air®, Ultrabooks, Netbooks and Tablets
where USB ports are sparse or RJ-45 network ports
are non-existent (ie Macbook Air®). Simply connect a
network cable to this device and you have a
10/100Mbps
network adaptor.
• Size: 96(L) x
24(W) x 16(H)mm
YN-8407
1995
$
Laptop and cable not included
Portable Power Bank
This unit has a huge 5000mAh capacity and outputs
up to 2A so it can charge an iPad® with ease. It allows
you to charge 2 devices
at once. Unit is
rechargeable via USB.
• Included: Apple®
connector, micro
USB, mini USB
• Output voltage: 5V
• Size: 109(L) x 76(W) x 16(H)mm
MB-3644
NEW
5995
$
A simple way to access files on a SATA hard drive you no
longer have installed. This USB 3.0 adaptor will take full
advantage of the max speed of SATA (3.0Gbps) for PCs
with USB 3.0 port. Combine with the
3.5˚ HDD enclosure (XC-4652) for an
NEW
easy, convenient backup solution.
'The Champion'
Audio Amplifier Kit
3495
$
49
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
1995
$
• Compatible with Windows and Mac®
• Sizes: 133(H) x 22(W) x 17(Dia.)mm
XC-5410
NEW
3495
$
Wireless Networking
Wireless-N Broadband Router
with 4 ports 150Mbps
A Wireless-N router with a wireless
access point function combined with
the flexibility of a 4-port switch, and a
built-in firewall. Provides up to 3 times
the transmission rate and double the
range of 802.11g products.
• Setup Wizard for easy configuration
• Supports UPnP and DDNS
$
• Detachable antenna
YN-8305
4495
Offering the latest in high speed technology, this
excellent router can realise data transfer rates up to
300Mbps and achieve three times the transmission
range of 802.11g systems. Integrates a router,
wireless access point, four-port
switch, and firewall all in one
compact package. See website
for full specifications.
• 802.11n, 802.11g,
802.11b protocols
• 300Mbps receiving and
150Mbps transmission rates
YN-8300
6995
$
Garbage and Recycling
Reminder Kit
Ref: SC Magazine Jan 2013
Suitable for general-purpose audio projects and
supports microphone and electric guitar input. It uses
the AN7511 audio IC to deliver 2W music power into 8
ohms from a 9 to 12V supply. Features low distortion,
two inputs (mixed 1:1), mute and standby control.
Power from 4 - 13.5VDC. See website for
specifications. Kit supplied with silk-screened PCB,
heatsink and PCB mount components.
• PCB: 101x41mm
KC-5519
For professionals who frequently
use power point presentations.
You can cycle back and forward
through slides, blank the screen, or use the units laser to
highlight key points in presentations. Integrated into a
pen unit for easy transportation and usage.
Wireless Broadband Router
SATA to USB 3.0 Adaptor
• Backward compatible with USB 2.0
• Compatible with Windows,
Mac® and Linux
• Includes USB 3.0 cable
and mains adaptor
XC-4149
Pen Style RF Presenter
with Laser Pointer
Ref: SC Magazine Jan 2013
Easy to build kit that reminds you when to put which
bin out by flashing the corresponding brightly coloured
LED. Up to four bins can be individually set to weekly,
fortnightly or alternate week or fortnight cycle.Kit
supplied with silk-screened PCB, black enclosure (83 x
54 x 31mm), pre-programmed PIC, battery and PCB
mount components.
• PCB: 75 x 47mm
KC-5518
2995
$
April 2013 51
www.jaycar.com.au
7
SECURITY
Network 4 Channel DVR with 4 CCD Cameras
Hidden Camera Mirror
Contains multiplexing DVR with Ethernet access, four weatherproof CCD cameras with IR illumination, and
four 20m cables. Ideal for any small business or residential location. Allows remote access viewing from
anywhere with an internet connection using a web browser or Smartphone.
Designed for use where concealed high security is
the main requirement such as retail
stores, offices, ATMs, museums etc.
Looks like a simple convex security
mirror but embedded behind is a
600TVL security camera.
• 704 x 576 D1 resolution <at> 100fps
• 500GB SATA Hard disk
$
00
• 520TV line cameras
$
• CCD cameras provide clearer
SAVE 100
images at night time
• DVR size: 343(W) x 240(D) x 68(H)mm
QV-8108 was $749.00
649
HD Car Event Recorder
with LCD & GPS
Mounts to the car windscreen to record
vision, audio, GPS coordinates and car
speed to an SD memory card
(available separately), which
can be played back on the 2.4"
colour screen or a PC. Features
HDMI output, infrared LEDs to
improve night time recording.
19900
Car Alarm with Coded Disarm
and Rechargeable Remotes
This car alarm system minimises risk through it's
coded disarm feature. When enabled, it allows the
owner to select a 1 - 5 digit pin code that is entered
via the remote and is required to disarm the system.
The alarm includes battery backup siren and long
range back-lit LCD paging remote with integrated
rechargeable Lithium-ion battery.
19900
$
• Built-in G-sensor
• 720p / H.264 / AVI or
MP4 compression
• Support microSDHC cards up to 32GB
• 95 degree wide angle lens
QV-3793
RECORDS
SPEED &
LOCATION
Catalogue Out Now!
• FSK technology,
range up to 3kms
• Active arming &
passive arming
selectable
LA-9016 was $249.00
Offer valid until 31/05/13
USB Mini Inspection Camera
2495
SAVE $15
22900
$
NEW Store Opening
Browns Plains,
29 Grand Plaza Dr
7m USB Inspection Camera
that allows you to get into
those very hard to reach places.
NEW
9995
$
• Requires 12VDC 800mA
• Image sensor: 1/3" Colour HDIS CMOS
• Size: 155(L) x 87(W) x 73(H)mm
QC-8627
1800 022 888
QC-3371 was $59.95 now $49.95 save $10
• Wired network option
• IR LEDs for visibility in the dark
• 1/5" colour CMOS sensor,
300k pixels
• Size: 125(H) x 100(W) x
95(L)mm
$
00
QC-3834
Also available:
Wi-Fi IP Camera QC-3832 $89.00
Outdoor Wired/Wi-Fi IP Camera QC-3836 $149.00
Housed inside a
weatherproof case, with
the latest dot-matrix IR
LED, a fixed 6mm lens
and a 600TVL resolution.
Using only a single chip,
the dotmatrix IR LED
provides 120˚ of horizontal
coverage and produces an
infrared light output equivalent
to the combined output of many
ordinary IR LEDs, turning night
into day.
Queensland
Need more length?
also available
Connect this wireless IP carmera to your Wi-Fi router
and access it through a web browser or
iPhone®/Android™ app to see what is
really going on while you're away.
Features Pan and Tilt so you can
change the view angle as you please.
Weatherproof Day/Night
Camera
SAVE $20
Spare remote: LA-9017 $79.00
Use a laptop as a monitor to check for termites and
other rodents, finding lost tools etc. Features two
variable intensity LEDs for illumination.
$
Monitor your Home from your
Smartphone
119
Purchase over $30 online and get
your catalogue absolutely FREE!
• Mirror and magnet pick-up
tools included
• USB powered
• Size: 10(Dia.)mm x 2m long
QC-3383 was $39.95
• 12VDC required - use MP-3011 $19.95
• Image sensor: 1/3˚ colour
NEW
Super HAD CCD
• Size: 350(Dia.) x 200(H)mm
$
QC-8631
Parking available
120˚of
horizontal
infrared
coverage!
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE - Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
• AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Ph (02) 6239 1801
• NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
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Blacktown
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Campbelltown WE HAVE MOVED
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• NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
• QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Browns Plains
Caboolture
Cairns
Caloundra
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were
confirmed
at the
time of print
but delays sometimes
52 S
ilicon
Chip
occur. Please ring your local store to check stock details.
Prices valid from 24th March 2013 to 23rd April 2013.
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Ph (02) 4721 8337
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Ph (07) 3863 0099
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HEAD OFFICE
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Ph (07) 3245 2014
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• SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Clovelly Park
Elizabeth
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NEW
• TASMANIA
Hobart
Launceston
• VICTORIA
Cheltenham
320 Victoria Road, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100 Fax: (02) 8832 3169
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Ph (08) 8276 6901
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ONLINE ORDERS
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Ringwood
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Ph (03) 9384 1811
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• WESTERN AUSTRALIA
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Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Email: techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
NEW
Ph (08) 9301 0916
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Ph (08) 9586 3827
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Ph (08) 9328 8252
Ph (08) 9592 8000
siliconchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Verbatim launch Portable Power Packs to power portable devices
Verbatim has unveiled its lineup of Portable Power Packs,
which will allow users to talk longer, listen to more music,
play more games and watch more videos without worrying
about running out of battery.
Available in multiple capacities and styles, including a
10,000mAh model, Verbatim’s Power Packs extend battery
life, making them ideal for business or leisure travel, road
trips, outdoor excursions and more.
The Power Packs feature a slim design for ultimate portability while still packing enough battery power to charge
even the most draining devices. Various devices can be
attached from iPods and iPads, Blackberrys and Kindles
through to Bluetooth adaptors, etc.
The range includes a 4 x AA Power Pack (you choose
the cells to put in it), an Ultra-Slim Power Pack (credit
card sized) with a 1200mAh lithium polymer battery, a
Portable Power Pack with 2200mAh lithium-ion battery
and micro-USB charging cable and a 10,000mAh lithiumpolymer Dual USB Power Pack featuring a dedicated iPad
port and an additional USB port for simultaneous charging.
Recommended retail prices range from $24.95 through
to $99.95
Two new LED Drivers
from Mean Well
MEAN WELL has announced
two new encapsulated module
DC-DC Buck converters for
LED driving purpose, the
LDD-L and LDD-H series.
With constant current mode
output, LDD-L features 9~36V DC
input and 2~32V DC output while LDDH possesses wide range of 9~56V DC input and 2~52V DC
output. Both provide multiple output current options of
300mA/350mA/500mA/600mA/700mA/1A (LDD-H only)
for LED system designers to choose from.
LDD series are designed to be mounted on the system PCB
of lighting fixtures. Their typical deployment is to connect
to the output of CV (constant voltage) mode AC-DC LED
power supply for providing a constant current to drive LEDs.
They can maintain good current balance for each LED
string and hence ensure the long life of LEDs but can also
save the effort of sorting the Vf value of LEDs.
Failure in any LED string driven by the LDD series
won’t affect the others, and each string can be connected
to a different number of LEDs according to system design
requirements.
With non-isolatContact:
ed Buck topology
Power Supplies Australia
design, the LDD
21 Garden Bvde, Dingley Village, Vic 3172
series possess an
Tel: 1800 632 693 Fax: (03) 9551 6977
extremely high efWeb:www.power-supplies-australia.com.au
ficiency, up to 97%.
siliconchip.com.au
Contact:
Verbatim Australia Pty Ltd
Unit 6, 450 Princes Hwy, Noble Park Vic 3174
Tel: (03) 9790 8980 Fax: (03) 9824 7011
Website: www.verbatim.com.au
mbed application board supports
rapid prototyping
RS Components’ new mbed application board supports rapid prototyping. Based around the mbed developer platform, the new mbed
application board includes
a host of connectors and
external interfaces, eliminating the requirement
for add-on boards and
thus reducing valuable design time for
engineers.
The new application board
is credit-card sized (54mm x
86mm) and is specifically designed for
use with the mbed NXP LPC1768 microcontroller module.
Providing multi-functional capability, the new board enables the maximum number of potential experiments and
projects, while retaining board footprint at a minimum.
The mbed application board offers an impressive array
of features including a 128 x 32 graphics LCD; a 3-axis
accelerometer; temperature sensor; servo-motor headers; PWM controlled LEDs; socket for ZigBee, Wi-Fi and
Bluetooth wireless connectivity; Contact:
Ethernet and USB RS Components
connectors; and a 25 Pavesi St, Smithfield NSW 2164
speaker and I/O Tel: (02) 9681 8558 Fax: (02) 9681 8614
SC Website: www.rsaustralia.com
audio jacks.
April 2013 53
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Curly jobs: you have to be on guard
Every serviceman knows all about “curly jobs”.
Curly jobs are those that look simple enough to
begin with but then, for whatever reason, turn
into a can of worms once you get into them.
Here are a few of my experiences.
We’ve all taken on a job thinking
that it would be routine only to have
it end up really testing our mettle. The
bloody-minded among our ranks may
even take on jobs they know are (or are
likely to be) rather difficult as a kind
of professional challenge. After all, if
they can fix the curly ones, they can
cope with anything – or at least, that’s
the thinking.
Others may be forced to take on
difficult jobs simply because, in the
current economic climate, they aren’t
in a position to turn work down.
Either way, we all have to deal with
curly jobs and, of course, the clients
that bring them to us. And sometimes,
unfortunately, it’s the client that’s the
more difficult to handle.
Curly jobs don’t necessarily have
to be technically tricky either; the job
itself might be straightforward but
it’s the circumstances surrounding
it that makes it difficult. I’m sure all
54 Silicon Chip
servicemen will know what I am talking about and have their own stories
to tell. In the meantime, let’s look at
some examples I’ve encountered in the
computer repair business.
This first example is a classic “curly
client” job. Some time ago, a long-term
client of ours brought in a laptop for
repair. Our usual procedure is to fire
the machine up on the reception counter, discuss the exact problems with
the client, write everything down and
have them sign off on it. Only then do
we set about repairing whatever it is
we have agreed ails the machine.
In this case, my staff member had
spoken to the client by phone about
this particular laptop’s problems and
just happened to be dealing with
another customer when the client
brought it in. So instead of following
normal procedures, he simply took
the laptop and put it straight on the
incoming jobs shelf without checking
Dave Thompson*
it out with the client first. However,
when he subsequently started work
on it later that day, he found that it
was completely dead in the water and
wouldn’t power up.
After trying everything he could
think of to get it to power up, he
called the client and informed him
that we couldn’t get it to work at all.
Unfortunately, the client immediately
launched into the “well, it was working when I left it there so you guys
must have done something to it”
speech – a speech I’ve heard all too
often over the years.
Hail to the chief
As the chief, I was then told by my
employee that the client wanted to
talk to me and from that point on it
became my problem. In my first conversation with him, I played it straight
and calmly outlined the facts as we
knew them, ie, that the machine was
dead when presented to us and that
we’d done nothing at all to it other
than to plug it in to the mains with
the power supply provided to try to
get it working.
It cut no ice – the client immediately
became very agitated and reiterated
what he’d already said to our staff
member, only this time his message
was liberally sprinkled with profanity
and not-so-subtle legal threats. From
then on, there was no talking to this client; no amount of remonstrating made
any difference and all requests for him
to refrain from using threatening and
offensive language only invoked more
of the same
By now, my serviceman’s radar
had well and truly lit up and the
alarm bells were ringing. This whole
scenario was a bit too contrived and I
began to get the feeling we were being
set up. Customers (if you could call
them that) had tried things on like this
before over the years, which is why
we implemented the system we have.
It’s designed to ensure that everyone
involved understands exactly what the
fault is when the machine is brought
siliconchip.com.au
in, along with a signed agreement
on this and the work to be done to
resolve it
In other words, there’s no room for
surprises, no misrepresentation and
no room for reinterpretation of what
was said sometimes weeks or months
after the fact.
It’s a system that works quite well.
In the past, I’ve dealt with several
customers who’d brought in a computer claiming that it had some minor
issue. But then, when we set about
plugging it in so that we could fire
it up on the reception counter, they
suddenly got rather fidgety and started
back-tracking on what they had told
us about the fault.
When the machine doesn’t power
up or has more serious symptoms
than they’ve described, they then act
surprised but it’s not hard to tell when
someone is acting. In each case, I’m left
with the feeling that if we hadn’t gone
through this process, they would have
tried the same “it was working when
I dropped it off . . . ” routine on us.
It’s a shame we have to go to such
lengths to protect ourselves but the sad
fact is there are people out there who
attempt to manipulate small business
owners in order to wrangle free service
or compensation.
My fears in this example were confirmed when we stripped the covers off
the laptop and discovered a considerable amount of coffee had been spilled
into it. That’s never a good recipe for
continued operation, as anyone with
any knowledge of electronics can tell
you.
Judging by the amount of residue
and the extent of the corrosion on the
motherboard, this spill was probably
several months old by the time the
machine came to us. And since it was
centred on the power supply components on the motherboard, this was
the most likely section to have failed.
Armed with this new evidence,
I went back to the client and asked
him about it. At first he acknowledged
that there had been a spill but he
claimed that the machine had been
immediately dried out in an airing
cupboard and since it was working fine
afterwards, the spill couldn’t be the
problem. Besides, he had since asked
people who “know about computers”
and had been told that it wouldn’t have
anything to do with the computer not
working now.
I informed them that it was very
likely to be the cause of the problem
and it was typical of spills that, over
time, corrosion gradually eats away at
the components until they fail completely. I also told him that because
of this, we couldn’t do anything about
the machine except replace the motherboard at his cost.
Of course, this went down like a lead
balloon, resulting in the client again
threatening legal action. Eventually,
he did take us to court and we thought
we had a pretty good case, providing
plenty of photographs and years of
expert experience.
However, on the day, the client
claimed he knew nothing of any liquid
spill and denied ever having admitted
to knowing about it or even talking to
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
Curly jobs: be on guard
Electron microscope repair
Boeing 747 ABS warning
system
• Star SA-30 valve amplifier
*Dave Thompson, runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
me about it. So, in the absence of any
recorded telephone calls, it was my
word against his. Surprisingly, the
court found that (a) if there was coffee
in the laptop, we (not the client) must
have introduced it; and (b) we didn’t
provide convincing evidence that
coffee, or any liquid for that matter,
damages laptop motherboards!
As a result, they awarded the client
full original retail replacement cost
of the laptop, which by that time was
well over two years old.
Our appeal was thrown out on a
technicality, making this the worst
job I’ve ever dealt with. It’s certainly
an experience I don’t want to repeat
and my staff are now instructed to
stick rigidly to procedure. I’ve also
implemented a further measure to
protect myself; all potentially difficult
conversations are now recorded, with
the client’s acknowledgement, using
audio for phone conversations and
both audio and video if the client is
at the workshop.
Of course, we won’t be dealing with
that particular customer ever again –
The In-Circuit CapAnalyzer 88A, Series II
Checks and analyzes electrolytic capacitors IN CIRCUIT – no need to unsolder!
Troubleshooting and locating defective electrolytic capacitors has been a thorn in the side
of all technicians for many years. The CapAnalyzer 88A will detect dried up and shorted
electrolytics in all PCBs easily without having to unsolder and test, or cut up the PCB
tracks, or needing the service manual! The American designed and built EDS-88A is the
only asked-for-by-name Cap Checker in the world.
Check capacitor DC Resistance and ESR instantly – Turn hours of service and trouble-shooting
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April 2013 55
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
that’s if he ever has the hide to come
anywhere near us.
Software problems
Another very common example of a
job turning curly is where a customer
brings in a computer for repair but
doesn’t have any original disks or
license keys for the software installed
on the machine. We don’t usually require this stuff for simple repair jobs
but if a full system re-installation is
necessary, then we do need legitimate
license keys for the likes of Windows,
Microsoft Office, Adobe Photoshop
and other copyrighted software. The
problem here is that many vendors
stopped supplying physical disks or
installation media with their computers a long time ago, so most people
don’t have this information and many
are not even aware they need it.
In the old days, computer buyers
usually received a disk for the Windows operating system installed on the
machine, along with various device
driver disks and sometimes even a
hard-copy user manual for some of
the hardware. Due to rising costs and
falling profits, this practice was soon
abandoned in favour of pre-installed
or downloadable software with no
physical media on offer.
Operating system installation files
were sometimes stored on the hard
disk and sometimes not. Some manufacturers even provided a separate
recovery partition on the hard drive,
containing an image of everything
installed on the machine. Manuals,
if issued at all, came in PDF or RTF
format and were found tucked away
in support folders somewhere on the
drive.
So you can easily see the potential
problem; what if the hard disk fails?
How are we supposed to reinstall the
system software in such cases?
Then there’s the software license
key conundrum; most people running
a Windows-based computer will have
access to their license key whether they
are aware of it or not. In accordance
with Microsoft’s end-user agreements,
all computers running pre-installed
versions of Windows must have a
Windows license key stuck to the case
of the machine somewhere, tying that
copy of Windows to that particular
computer. On a desktop machine, the
sticker is usually somewhere on the
side of the case, though some vendors
have been known to stick it on the bottom of the case or on the rear panel. On
laptops, the sticker is usually placed
on the bottom of the machine, next to
the manufacturer’s label showing the
model and serial numbers.
However, attaching the license key
sticker on the outside of the computer, in full view, presents potential
problems. Even though Windows is
reasonably priced, there are plenty of
people out there who don’t want to
pay for it. These people will borrow
someone else’s disk to install Windows
on their machine or they may even
purchase a pirate copy for $5 during
an overseas holiday.
However, many pirate copies of Windows will not activate. That’s because,
to activate the installation, Windows
“phones home” over the Internet and
subsequently checks again every now
and then to confirm everything is as it
should be. If it finds that the key has
already been used, it complains about
the copy not being genuine, increasingly nagging the user to purchase a
legitimate version and enter a new
key so it can be validated. If not, it
will eventually stop working properly.
Many people in this situation will
try to find a key from the web or use
some kind of crack or key generator.
This may or may not work and could
even fill your machine with nasty
bugs and end up costing more to fix
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
56 Silicon Chip
than a legitimate copy of Windows.
Either way, this is obviously illegal
and constitutes software piracy.
Which brings us back to the sticker
on the outside of the computer; if a
pirate suddenly needs a valid key, all
they have to do is head down to their
local computer superstore and get one
from one of the display machines. The
keys on display are, after all, working
licenses and some may not have been
activated. Fortunately, most retailers
and vendors have gotten wise to this
but it is still something to be aware of.
I encounter the lost-key scenario
most with laptops, where the Windows
license key on the bottom of the machine has literally been worn bare by
someone’s knee. There are obviously
the remains of a valid license sticker
(unless the machine’s owner is an
especially clever fraudster) but it is
of no use to us because the key is no
longer readable.
Fortunately, if the hard drive is still
alive and the Windows registry intact,
we can retrieve the license keys not
only for Windows but also for Micro
soft Office, Works, FrontPage and
other software the client may want
reinstalled. However, we are still on
legal thin ice; just because someone
has a Microsoft Office key in their
Windows registry doesn’t necessarily
mean they’ve purchased the software.
If they purchased the key online, the
only proof of purchase may be an email
from the vendor they bought it from,
which may or may not be recoverable.
If the client is thorough enough,
they may have printed it out and kept
it but how many of us do that? There’s
also the possibility that they have borrowed a mate’s disk and installed the
software from that. Microsoft and other
vendors usually allow two or three
activations from the same product key
(if it is a single-license product) before
the activation process becomes more
stringent and some explaining to a real
person is required.
In such situations, we usually accept
any recovered keys on face value and
trust that the client is telling the truth
when they say they purchased the
software. However, I’ve had more than
a few cases where the client is a little
vague about ownership or I recognise
the keys recovered as being widely
distributed illegal licenses.
And that’s where things get difficult;
in such cases I have to tell the client I
cannot reinstall their product because
siliconchip.com.au
the key is not legitimate. How this news goes down all
depends on the client but I’ve found most people are OK
with it and will pay for a bona-fide copy of Windows
or Office.
But what to do in cases where the client has no media
or licenses, the sticker has worn away and the hard drive
has died, making any key retrieval impossible? This is a
terrible situation because 99% of the time we know the
owner had a valid license for the product but without
that key, we cannot legally reinstall the software.
Calling the computer manufacturer is no help because
they don’t keep a record of what key goes with what
machine and unless the owner has had cause in the past
to write it down somewhere, there is no possible way of
knowing what it is. This is a call the individual serviceman has to make; some will flatly refuse to reinstall the
operating system, requiring the client to buy another
copy, while others might use a license key taken from
a dead computer, reasoning that the inactive computer
won’t be using it and since the client did have a legitimate key, it all evens out.
It’s a tough call and one that proves just how the curly
jobs keep us on our toes. Handled properly though, these
jobs can be some of the most rewarding, so it would be
a dull serviceman who avoids them completely.
Hg
mercury free
Electron microscope repair
Sometimes, it takes only a minor component failure to
stop expensive gear in its tracks. This story, from A. W.
of Glen Iris, Victoria, describes how a 10-cent part laid
low a million dollar electron microscope . . .
I read in a recent Serviceman article in SILICON CHIP
that ceramic capacitors “are much more reliable than
electrolytics but can still give trouble”. That reminded
me of an interesting experience I had some years ago.
At that time, I was engaged in research using a highresolution transmission electron microscope (TEM) and
was responsible for the electron microscopy area. The
TEM had sub-nanometre resolution and required highlystable accelerating voltage and electron lens current
supplies to achieve this.
One day, it developed a fault that resulted in a fluctuating focus of the electron image, making the TEM unusable. My immediate thought was that this was due to a
high-voltage instability, since we had observed similar
symptoms in the past.
The 200kV accelerating voltage was generated in a voltsiliconchip.com.au
April 2013 57
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
A Simple Fault But Difficult To Find
Simple faults can sometimes be
difficult and time-consuming to track
down. And if it’s in an aircraft, it can be
very expensive as well. J. C. of Cronulla,
NSW has a story on one such fault in a
Boeing 747 . . .
Anyone who has any knowledge of
modern transport aircraft will know that
they are quite complex beasts, full of systems which sometimes have the knack
of failing in unusual and unpredictable
ways. Many people in the aircraft industry
can no doubt relate tales of complex
failures but here is the story of how a
simple fault in the cabin wiring system
had a serious impact on an apparentlyunrelated operational system.
The aircraft in question was a Boeing
747 and the operational system was the
brakes – very much an airworthiness
system and critical to the safe operation
of the aircraft. The fault led to delays and
aircraft downtime costing over $100,000.
As a background, all large passenger
aircraft since the 1950s have been fitted
with anti-skid systems, the forerunner of
the automotive ABS. This system monitors the speed of all 16 braked wheels,
releasing and re-applying the individual
brakes as required to prevent skidding
and losing braking effectiveness during
landing.
The problem in this particular aircraft
started not long after it had completed
a heavy-maintenance visit and involved
an anti-skid fault-light illuminating during
taxi. In cases such as this, if the fault cannot be rectified, the aircraft is subjected
to a severe weight penalty to ensure that
safe braking performance is available,
without risking wheel locking, reduced
braking performance and possible blown
tyres. The end result was the offloading
of passengers and/or cargo – a very
expensive consequence.
The worst nightmare for any maintenance person is an intermittent fault. In
this case, the fault never once appeared
whilst the aircraft was in maintenance –
it only appeared during taxi for take-off
or on taxi back in to the airport terminal
on arrival.
Early rectification attempts involved
replacement of the most likely components, including the parking brake valve,
the anti-skid control unit and associated
relays. And because the defect had
started not long after a heavy mainte-
age multiplier stage that was contained
in a dry Freon-filled tank. The TEM
was so sensitive to voltage changes that
this tank was on a vibration isolation
pad – even slightly rocking the tank
produced enough capacitance change
to affect the electron image.
Anyway, there were a number
of possible sources of high-voltage
instability, including tracking over
“dirty” ceramic insulators. However,
thoroughly checking and cleaning the
high-voltage sections of the supply
failed to cure the fault.
My attention then moved to the next
possible problem area. A TEM has a
number of magnetic lenses that are
driven by variable constant-current
sources. The most critical of these is
the current source for the objective
lens that is the main image-forming
lens. Careful investigation uncovered
noise on the supply to this lens but
the question then was, what was
causing it?
As luck would have it, the objec-
tive lens current-control circuitry
is difficult to access, consisting of a
number of parallel transistor current
sources immersed in an oil-filled tank.
However, before doing anything else,
the circuit was first examined to determine which components were most
likely to cause the observed symptoms,
the most obvious possibility for the
introduction of noise being a failing
semiconductor.
That done, the circuit was pulled
out and cleaned up. We then started
checking back from the output to see
where the noise was being introduced.
This isolated the problem to a driver
transistor stage that essentially consisted of a transistor, a ceramic filter
capacitor on its base and a couple of
resistors.
I was reluctant to dive in and pull
out the transistor, which was a little
awkward to remove, so I first replac
ed the 1nF ceramic filter capacitor
(despite the fact that I had always
regarded ceramic capacitors as being
58 Silicon Chip
nance visit, a thorough search of the
records detailing the work performed
during the visit was carried out. No evidence of any work in the anti-skid area
was found, however.
Continuing reports and delays then
saw further components replaced, including the anti-skid fault light assembly
itself. The aircraft was then subsequently
grounded for three days while the
complete anti-skid light wiring from the
cockpit to the wheel-well was replaced
But despite the work done and the
involvement of several maintenance
crews and engineering specialists, the
defect continued to be reported almost
every flight. In most instances, the fault
caused a delay and/or operation with
the anti-skid system rendered inoperative, with the associated heavy-weight
penalty and revenue loss.
Finally, after further analysis, the fault
was isolated to a wiring error in a toilet
door switch! How could this be? To understand, you need to know a little about
the functioning of the toilet door switch.
Basically, the slide which locks the
toilet door operates a switch which
transfers power to the toilet lighting. This
ensures that the light is on when the door
is closed but turns off when the door is
unlocked to minimise disturbance to
nearby passengers in the night.
This same switch also allows the
very reliable). And that was it – the
problem was fixed! There was no more
noise on the supply line and when it
was all reassembled, a rock solid image appeared.
Further checking revealed that the
capacitor had not completely failed
but had gone slightly leaky. So, a 10cent component had taken a number
of days to track down and had stopped
the operation of a million dollar electron microscope!
Star SA-30 valve amplifier
L. G., of Cowes, Victoria recently
resurrected an old Star SA-30 valve
amplifier, making a few improvements
along the way. Here’s his story . . .
I recently spotted an old Japanese
valve amplifier for sale on the net
and had a sudden, impulsive thought.
What if I overhauled a similar amplifier using modern components and
technology; ie, replace all the old
capacitors with modern quality units,
replace the noisy AC neon indicator
siliconchip.com.au
lighting to be permanently on while
the aircraft is on the ground and, due
to a wiring error during maintenance,
a combination of power sources were
being inadvertently connected together
when the cabin crew locked the toilet
door open for take-off. The end result
was 115V single phase being fed to one
phase of a 3-phase power supply.
This power supply normally supplies
regulated 28V DC to various circuits
when the aircraft is on the ground as well
as in flight. However, the single-phase
input to one phase of the 3-phase supply resulted in an output of about 10V
DC from the supply which was enough
to power some of the circuitry but not
enough to energise a monitor relay which
removes power to the anti-skid failure
warning light.
So it was an extremely frustrating and
expensive fault. Once isolated though, it
was a 10-minute fix!
with a DC operated LED, and replace
all the screen and grid-leak resistors
with low-noise metal oxide ones?
Valve amplifiers in those days also
suffered from annoying hum and a fair
bit of induced background noise. So
why not use DC current to supply all
the filaments as well?
With that thought in mind, I rang
a mate who once owned a Star valve
amplifier and now regretted having
ever sold it. After a little sleuthing,
I found out that the Star was a rebadged Lafayette design which came
either as an LA224A (using 6BQ5s) or
a LA224B. It was also sold under the
Bocama brand.
After some hunting around, another
mate eventually located a Star SA30 amplifier, albeit with a burnt-out
mains transformer. This apparently
was a common fault, as the export
models simply wired the 2 x 115V primary windings in series to give 230V
for European operation. In addition,
no protection was employed in the
siliconchip.com.au
DC line to prevent a heavy overload
current if an output valve went short
circuit. As a result, if an output valve
did short, it either killed the output
stage or the mains transformer.
Sure enough, when I took a look
inside my newly-acquired unit, one of
the output valves had that distinctive
red-orange burn mark inside, indicating a major short had occurred. So that
explained the burnt-out transformer.
By sheer luck, my mate had an
original power transformer in his spare
parts bin. I duly fitted this, carried
out the component changes described
above and fitted new valves. This
model used 6GW8s (now hard to get)
in a push-pull configuration in the
output stage, plus the usual 12AX7s
for the preamp, tone control and splitter circuits.
It all worked as soon as it was fired
up and delivered clean sound. However, where I live, the mains supply
varies up to 252VAC and is usually
around 248VAC, despite 230V now
being the standard. As a result, I installed a 20W dropping resistor in the
AC line to bring it back to 230VAC into
the transformer.
The problem now was that this
resistor ran too hot, despite the chassis mount acting as a heatsink. The
output valves were also running too
hot and subsequent measurements
revealed that the 6GW8 plate and
screen voltages were just over 300V
DC, whereas the valve bible said they
should be 230V DC.
Another 20W dropping resistor,
this time in the HT line, fixed the heat
SC
problem in both areas.
April 2013 59
By JIM ROWE
Deluxe GPS 1pps timebase
for frequency counters
Were you interested in the precision GPS timebase featured in the
February 2013 issue? That was the “no frills” version. Here we
present a Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase which also suits our recently
described 12-Digit Frequency Counter. It not only provides the
same near-atomic-clock-accuracy 1pps pulses for the counter’s
timebase but also extracts the NMEA 0183 data stream from the
GPS satellites for processing on your PC.
M
EASUREMENT ACCURACY is
the prime reason for building
either the original no-frills version or
this new Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase.
Either of them represents the simplest
and most economical way to match
the accuracy to the resolution of the
12-Digit High-Resolution Frequency
Counter described in the December
2012 and January 2013 issues of SILICON CHIP.
By using a GPS 1pps timebase, the
counter can achieve a measurement
accuracy approaching ±1 part in 1011.
That’s up in atomic clock territory.
Our February no-frills design comprised little more than a cheap GPS
receiver module with the all-important
1pps output, plus a handful of components to provide the module with
60 Silicon Chip
power and to buffer the output pulses.
Despite its simplicity, this first GPS
1pps Timebase works extremely well.
But while it was under development,
we also had the intention of describing this deluxe version which would
also have the NMEA 0183 stream of
navigation data. This data is provided
by virtually all low-cost GPS modules,
along with the 1pps pulses but separated from them.
So that’s the basis of new Deluxe GPS
1pps Timebase described here. The
NMEA data is fed out to a USB socket
and it’s relatively easy to analyse this
data stream and extract the current
UTC (Universal Time Co-ordinated)
and date, along with such things as
longitude, latitude, altitude and the
number of GPS satellites in view. In
addition, the PC can display the signalto-noise ratio (SNR) of the signals from
the satellites and even the quality of the
“fix” that the GPS module is currently
able to achieve using them. This helps
to confirm the accuracy and reliability
of the 1pps pulses as a timebase.
GPS clock driver
Back in the June 2009 issue of SILICHIP, we described a GPS Clock
Driver module. This took the NMEA
0183 data stream from a low-cost GPS
receiver module and made it available for driving our May 2009 6-Digit
GPS Clock. Alternatively, it could be
fed to a PC via a “legacy” serial port.
There were a number of freeware and
shareware software applications available at the time which could be used
CON
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
The parts are all installed on a small PCB which is then mounted on the lid of a
UB3 jiffy box. The lid then acts as the base of the completed unit shown at left.
to analyse the data stream and display
much of the useful information.
So one way of improving the February 2013 GPS 1pps Timebase would be
to simply “bolt on” the relevant parts
of the June 2009 clock driver circuit, to
make the NMEA 0183 data stream from
the GPS receiver module available (as
well as the 1pps pulses). This would
allow the GPS 1pps Timebase unit to
drive the May 2009 clock or the serial
port of a PC, as well as the timebase of
the 12-Digit Frequency Counter.
The problem with this approach is
that most of today’s PCs don’t provide
an RS232 serial port; they only have
USB ports. So our deluxe unit features
a USB port as well as an RS232 port,
so it can be connected to a wide range
of computers and laptops.
This makes it easy to monitor the
receiver’s “fix” status by running a
freeware application called GPS Diagnostics 1.05 (there are many others but
we have found this one to be excellent).
As shown in the accompanying photos, the Deluxe GPS 1pps timebase is
housed in a small plastic case. It can
be powered via its USB port or from
the 12-digit Frequency Counter. The
latter approach is appropriate when
you are not using your computer to
monitor the GPS signal status.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the full circuit details
of the Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase.
It’s still fairly simple but again that’s
because all the complex circuitry
needed to receive the signals from the
GPS satellites and derive both the 1pps
(1Hz) pulses and the NMEA 0183 data
siliconchip.com.au
stream from them is buried deep inside
the GPS receiver module.
We are again specifying either of
two low-cost receiver modules which
are currently available from various
suppliers: the GlobalSat EM-406A
module which is available for as little
as $39.90, or the Fastrax UP501 module which is physically smaller but
priced at $59.90. The project is also
compatible with various other receiver
modules, if you find the EM-406A or
the UP501 hard to get.
The type of GPS receiver module
required is one that incorporates its
own ceramic “patch” antenna for the
UHF signals from the GPS satellites,
while also providing an output for the
1pps (pulse per second) time pulses.
It can operate from a DC supply of
either 5.0V or 3.3V. A few currently
available modules are listed in a panel
elsewhere in this article.
The EM-406A has its own built-on
GPS patch antenna and operates directly from 5V DC. It features the SiRF
Star III high-performance GPS chip set,
very high sensitivity and a relatively
fast time to first fix (from a cold start).
The UP501 and other compatible
GPS modules operate from 3.3V DC,
so we have made provision for fitting
a 3.3V LDO (low drop-out) regulator
(REG1) to provide this lower voltage
for modules that need it. In this case,
we are using an LP2950-3.3 regulator,
which comes in a TO-92 package.
Apart from the power supply arrangements, there is a 40106B hex
CMOS Schmitt inverter (IC1), used
for buffering both the 1pps timebase
pulses for the counter and the NMEA
1 UB3 jiffy box, 130 x 68 x 44mm
1 PCB, code 04104131, 121 x
57mm
1 GPS receiver module with in-built
patch antenna & 1pps output
4 3-pin SIL pin headers (LK1LK4)
4 jumper shunts to match
1 12MHz crystal, HC-49US (X1)
1 5-pin DIN socket, PCB-mount
(CON1)
1 DB9F socket, PCB-mount
(CON2)
1 USB type B socket, PCBmount (CON3)
1 14-pin DIL IC socket
4 M3 x 10mm tapped metal
spacers
4 self-adhesive rubber feet
8 M3 x 6mm machine screws
25 x 25mm double-sided adhesive
foam (to secure GPS module)
Semiconductors
1 40106B hex Schmitt inverter
(IC1)
1 MCP2200 USB2.0 to serial
converter (IC2)
1 LP2950-3.3 LDO regulator
(REG1*)
1 NX2301P P-channel Mosfet (Q1)
1 2N7002 N-channel Mosfet (Q2)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
Capacitors
2 10µF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470nF MMC
2 100nF MMC or MKT
1 33pF NP0 ceramic
1 15pF NP0 ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 47kΩ
3 470Ω
1 10kΩ
1 22Ω
1 1kΩ
*Only required if you are using
a GPS module which requires a
3.3V supply
0183 data stream. IC1c is the buffer
for the NMEA data, with its output
going to pin 2 of CON2. The other five
inverters in IC1 are used for the 1pps
pulse buffer and as a level translator,
with IC1a used as an optional inverter
to restore pulse polarity if necessary.
As shown, IC1b, IC1d, IC1e & IC1f are
connected in parallel and drive pin 3
of CON1, which goes to the counter’s
external timebase input.
April 2013 61
5V
LK1
REG1 LP2950-3.3*
3.3V
OUT
GND
GLOBALSAT
EM406A
GPS RECEIVER
MODULE
Vin
Rx
Tx
GND
1PPS
GND
10 F
1
+5V IN
IN
10 F
100nF
3
14
5
4
5
6
NMEA 0183 OUT
CON2
IC1: 40106B
1PPS POLARITY
LK2
IC1b
1
2
IC1a
LK3
FROM COUNTER
4
8
Tx
GND
Vin
B/UV
1PPS
10
470
2
3
Q1
NX2301P
+5V IN
3
Tx LED
4
LED2
5
A
A
K
6
Rx LED
LED1
6
5
13
12
LK4
10
11
2
X1 12MHz
33pF
47k
MMC
1k
4
470
7
* ONLY REQUIRED FOR GPS RECEIVER
MODULES REQUIRING 3.3V.
15pF
3
1
VDD
RST
D
G
USB TYPE B
GP5
D–
RxLED/GP6
D+ 19
TxLED/GP7
CTS
RX
TX
RTS
OSC1
IC2
MCP2200
GP4
GP3
GP2
GP1/USBCFG
GP0/SSPND
VUSB
OSC2
CON3
18
2
3
1
4
8
9
14
D
15
22
16
G
Q2
2N7002
S
17
Vss
20
470nF
MMC
LEDS
NX2301P, 2N7002
D
DELUXE GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
S
100nF
K
IC1
PIN1
2013
5
1PPS OUT
1
470
SC
TO
COUNTER
2
7
FASTRAX
UP501
GPS RECEIVER
MODULE
1
CON1
IC1e
11
5
12
IC1d
9
+3.3V
4
IC1f
13
ALTERNATIVES
Rx
2
IC1c
6
3
(CERAMIC PATCH ANTENNA)
DB9F
SOCKET
10k
2
FROM USB
(CERAMIC PATCH ANTENNA)
G
S
LP2950-3.3
GND
K
A
IN
OUT
Fig.1: the circuit consists of the GPS receiver module plus a hex CMOS Schmitt trigger inverter to buffer the 1pps
(1Hz) pulses and NMEA data from the module. The NMEA data is also fed to IC2 which drives the USB serial port.
As with the no-frills circuit, link
LK2 is used to allow the 1pps pulses to
be either inverted or not by the buffer,
so that their leading edges are positivegoing regardless of their polarity out of
the GPS module (some modules may
output them as inverted).
Basically, we need to ensure that
the leading edges of the 1pps pulses
fed to the 12-Digit Frequency Counter
are positive-going. That’s because it’s
the leading edges of the pulses that
are locked closely to the “atomic time”
provided by the GPS satellites.
62 Silicon Chip
The remaining circuitry in Fig.1 is
used to provide the USB serial port.
Here we are using a Microchip MCP
2200, a dedicated USB2.0-to-UART
Protocol Converter device. It appears
to be similar to a PIC18F14K50 microcontroller chip but is “hard wired” to
perform USB/serial and serial/USB
conversion, so that when it’s linked
to the USB port of a PC it behaves as
a “virtual COM port device”.
As a result, Windows will communicate with the MCP2200 via a virtual
COM port (VCP) driver. In addition,
Microchip has a freeware “Configuration Utility” program which can be
used to configure the MCP2200 in
terms of baud rate, data format and
so on. We will describe this in greater
detail later.
The MCP2200 (IC2) needs a 12MHz
crystal (X1) for its clock oscillator. This
crystal is connected between pins 2 &
3, along with two small NP0 ceramic
capacitors. It also needs a 470nF MMC
bypass capacitor connected between
its VUSB pin (pin 17) and ground, together with a 100nF MMC capacitor
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
1PPS
LED2
X1
12MHz
10
LK2
1PPS OUT
GND
CTR
Q1
NX2301P
47k
100nF
2
5
11
1
20
Q2
2N7002
4
1k
33pF
15pF
Rx
IC1 40106B
2
Tx
NC
470
3
GND
A
CON2
5
100nF
LED1
22
A
470
LK4
TX
1PPS
4
DB9F
POLARITY
MCP2200
IC2
RX
CON1
LK3
+V
470
1
GPS/USB
EMIT BSTIME
U/SP32G
RECEIVER
REVIECER 4
13140140 5
04104131
(PATCH ANT)
6
102 C
C 32013
+
USB
+5V
+3.3V
LK1
10k
GLOBALSAT
EM-406A
GPS RX MODULE
10 F
REG1
470nF
+
+5V IN
LP2950-3.3
10 F
1
bypassing the +5V rail from the PC’s
USB port (ie, pin 1 of CON3).
The D- and D+ data lines from CON3
connect directly to pins 18 & 19 of IC2,
while the NMEA data stream from the
GPS receiver module is fed directly to
pin 12 of IC2. IC2 converts this data
stream into USB packets for transmission to the PC via CON3.
NMEA commands are also sent
back from the PC via the USB cable
and these emerge from pin 10 of IC2.
These can be fed back to the Rx input
of the GPS receiver module when link
LK4 is used to complete the circuit. In
this application, we don’t need to send
any commands to the GPS receiver
module – we simply use its default
operating configuration.
However, we found that when this
connection was made in addition to
the main Tx-to-Rx connection to pin
12 of IC2, there could be a conflict
whereby IC2 could prevent the GPS
receiver module from finding a “fix”.
In addition, the GPS receiver could
prevent IC2 from configuring and enumerating correctly. So it seems best to
leave LK4 in the “open” position, as
shown in Fig.1 (and Fig.2).
LED1 (receive) & LED2 (transmit)
are driven from pins 6 & 5 of IC2.
These LEDs flash when data is passing through IC2 in one direction or
the other.
The remaining part of the circuit
involves Mosfets Q1 & Q2, which are
used to allow IC2 to control the +5V
power fed from USB socket CON3 to
link LK3 (this link is used to select
the power source for the GPS receiver
module and IC1). This is done to conform to the USB 2.0 requirement that
current drain from the PC’s USB port
drops to less than 2.5mA when the PC’s
USB host controller holds the device
in “suspended” mode.
IC2’s SSPND-bar output (pin 16)
is connected to Q2’s gate via a 22Ω
suppressor resistor, so that Q2 is only
turned on when IC2 receives a “wake
up from suspension” directive. Then
when Q2 turns on, it turns on Q1
which makes the connection between
pin 1 of CON3 and LK3. So if LK3 is
in the power “From USB” position,
(rather than “From Counter” position),
the GPS receiver module will only
receive power when (a) the project is
connected to a USB port on a PC; (b)
the PC is powered up; and (c) software
is running on the PC and “listening” to
the GPS data stream, so that IC2 is not
CON3
USB
TYPE B
Fig.2: follow this layout diagram to build the unit. Omit REG1 and the 10μF capacitor
to its left if you are using the Globalsat EM-406A module and install LK1 in the +5V
position. Alternatively, install REG1 and the capacitor if your GPS module requires a
3.3V supply and fit LK1 to the +3.3V position.
in suspended mode. Note that the GPS
receiver module can take over a minute
to get a “fix” after power is applied.
Alternatively, be fitting LK3 to the
“From Counter” position, the upper
part of the circuit can be powered
from either the counter or an external
plugpack supply (via CON1). This
means that you don’t have to connect
the unit to a PC in order to simply
derive 1pps pulses.
Building it
All the parts for the Deluxe GPS
1pps Timebase fit on a PCB coded
04104131 and measuring 122 x 57mm.
Fig.2 shows the PCB parts layout
diagram, while Fig.3 shows the pin
connections for the GlobalSat EM406A and Fastrax UP501 GPS receiver
modules. Note that almost half of the
PCB is reserved for mounting the GPS
module itself, which is held in place
using double-sided adhesive foam.
Begin by fitting SMD components
IC2, Q1 & Q2 to the PCB, as it is much
easier to do this before any other parts
are fitted. Take the usual precautions
when soldering these parts, ie, use
an earthed soldering iron with a finetipped bit. Tack-solder one or two
device leads first, so that the device is
held in position while you solder the
rest of the leads. You then re-solder
the original tacked leads to ensure
reliable joints.
Don’t worry if you accidentally
bridge two or more SMD device leads
with solder during this procedure.
These bridges can subsequently be removed quite easily by pressing solder
wick braid against the bridged leads
using the tip of your soldering iron.
This sucks up the excess solder while
leaving the solder joining the leads to
the PCB pads underneath in place.
Once the SMD parts have been
installed, add the SIL pin headers for
links LK1-LK4, followed by the resistors, capacitors and the 12MHz crystal.
April 2013 63
1
Vin (+5V)
3
SERIAL Rx
4
(PATCH ANTENNA
AT TOP)
GND
2
SERIAL Tx
5
GND
6
1PPS OUT
(PATCH
ANTENNA
AT TOP)
6
5
4
3
2
1
BACKUP V+
+3.3V
GND
SERIAL Tx
SERIAL Rx
FIX LED
GLOBALSAT EM-406A
1PPS OUT
FASTRAX UP501
Fig.3: the pin connections for the GlobalSat EM-406A and Fastrax UP501
GPS modules. Check the pin connections if you use a different module.
A 14-pin socket for IC1 can then be
fitted – make sure it’s orientated as
shown.
Connectors CON1-CON3 can then
go in, followed by LED1 & LED2. The
latter are mounted vertically above
the PCB, with their leads left at full
length so that they later protrude
through their matching holes in the
case (see Fig.4).
Voltage regulator option
Regulator REG1 and the 10µF electrolytic capacitor to its left are installed
only if the GPS receiver module you
are using requires a 3.3V DC supply
rather than a 5V supply. This means
that if you are using the EM-406A
module, you won’t need to fit REG1
or that 10µF capacitor.
By contrast, the regulator and the
capacitor must be installed if you are
using the UP501 receiver module,
since this runs off 3.3V. The same
goes for the Digilent PmodGPS and
RF Solutions GPS-622R GPS modules.
The GPS receiver module is installed last but before doing this, you
need to make the connections between
its output pads (or lead wires) and the
relevant pads on the PCB (ie, just to
the left of LK4). Fig.3 shows the outputs for the Globalsat EM-406A and
Fastrax UP501 modules. Be sure to
connect these to their matching pads
on the PCB.
The EM-406A module comes with a
short 6-wire ribbon cable fitted with a
sub-miniature 6-pin plug at each end.
One of these plugs connects directly
to the EM-406A’s output socket. The
plug at the other end of the cable is
cut off and the six wires stripped and
tinned before soldering them to their
PCB pads.
By contrast, the UP-501 module just
has a row of pads along one edge of its
PCB. It’s connected by first cutting six
25mm-lengths of light-duty hookup
wire (eg, from a ribbon cable), then
carefully stripping and tinning all the
wire ends before soldering the leads
into place.
Don’t forget to match the output
leads from the GPS module to the PCB
pads (see Figs.2 & 3), as the connec-
Compatible GPS Receiver Modules
The following GPS receiver modules should be compatible with this project
•
GlobalSat EM-406A: 30 x 30 x 10.5mm including patch antenna. Operates from
5V DC with a current drain of 44mA. Provides a 1pps output and a “fix” indicator
LED. Rated sensitivity -159dBm.
•
Digilent PmodGPS: approximately 30 x 55 x 12mm including patch antenna.
Operates from 3.3V DC with a current drain of 24/30mA. Provides a 1pps output
and a “fix” indicator LED. Rated sensitivity -165dBm.
•
RF Solutions GPS-622R: 43 x 31 x 6mm including patch antenna. Operates
from 3.3V DC with a current drain of 23/50mA. Provides a 1pps output and a “fix”
indicator LED. Rated sensitivity -148dBm/-165dBm.
•
Fastrax UP501: 22 x 22 x 8mm including patch antenna. Operates from 3.3V DC
with a current drain of 23mA. Provides a 1pps output. Rated sensitivity -165dBm.
Note that for use in this project, the GPS receiver module should have a built-in
ceramic patch antenna and also provide an output for the GPS-derived 1pps pulses.
Not all GPS modules currently available provide both of these features.
64 Silicon Chip
tions are not “straight through”.
Once all the connections have been
made, the GPS receiver module can be
secured to the top of the PCB using a
25mm-square piece of double-sided
adhesive foam – see Fig.4. Make sure
you attach the module with its patch
antenna facing upwards – it won’t
work very well if it faces downwards!
Fitting the links
LK1’s shunt position depends on the
supply voltage (5V or 3.3V) required
for the GPS receiver module you’re
using, while LK2’s position depends
on the polarity of the 1pps output
pulses from the GPS receiver. In most
cases, LK2 will need to be to the lower
position (ie, nearest Q1).
LK3’s position depends on just how
you plan to power the GPS receiver
module and IC1 (ie, the 1pps timebase
section of the circuit). If you only intend using this part of the circuit when
the unit is connected to a PC via a USB
cable, then LK3 can be fitted in the
USB (lefthand) position (ie, the circuit
is powered from the PC’s USB port).
Alternatively, if you want to use
this part of the circuit continuously
(eg, whenever the 12-Digit Frequency
Counter is on but without having to
fire up the PC), you’ll need to fit LK3
in the righthand CTR (From Counter)
position and power the unit either
from the counter or an external 5V
plugpack via CON1.
Finally, LK4 should almost always
be fitted to the upper position, to break
the connection between pin 10 of IC2
and the Rx input of the GPS module.
Preparing the box
Fig.4 shows how the PCB assembly is fitted inside a standard UB-3
jiffy box. The completed unit can be
mounted near a window to get a good
“view” of the sky.
As shown, the PCB is mounted on
the lid of the box, which then becomes
the base. The main part of the box then
fits down over the lid/board assembly,
to act as a dust cover.
Fig.5 shows the drilling details for
the box. Four mounting mounting
holes have to be drilled in the lid to
accept the PCB, while two holes must
be drilled through the top of the main
box section for the LEDs. In addition,
you have to drill a hole in the rear side
of the box and make cut-outs in the
front side and righthand end.
Use a small (eg, 1.5mm) pilot drill
siliconchip.com.au
HOLE FOR
ACCESS TO CON1
(UB-3 JIFFY BOX)
LED2
HOLE FOR
ACCESS
TO CON2
LED1
DOUBLE-SIDED ADHESIVE FOAM
ATTACHING MODULE TO PCB
EM-406A
GPS Rx MODULE
IC2
15p
RECEIVER PCB
CON3
LK2
LK4
Fig.4 here’s how the PCB
assembly is fitted inside a
standard UB-3 jiffy box. Be
sure to install links LK1LK4 correctly (see text)
before securing the top
section of the case to the lid.
The completed assembly
should be mounted near
a window to give the GPS
module a good “view” of the
available GPS satellites.
CON2
IC1
M3 x 10mm TAPPED SPACERS
UB-3 BOX LID
M3 x 6mm SCREWS
BOX ASSEMBLY SCREWS
to start all the holes, then drill the
3mm holes out to the correct size.
The hole in the rear side of the box
can be enlarged to the correct size
(16mm) using a tapered reamer. The
two square cut-outs can be made by
drilling a series of small holes around
the inside perimeter, then knocking
out the centre piece and carefully filing
the inside edges.
If you are using a GPS receiver
module with a “fix” indicator LED,
you might want to drill an additional
hole in the adjacent side of the box, so
that you can view this LED to confirm
that the receiver does indeed have a
fix. The prototype shown in the photos
uses an EM-406A module, which does
have such a LED in the lower righthand
corner – see Fig.3. That’s the reason
for the 5mm hole you can see in the
front of the box, located 45mm from
the lefthand end and 20mm up from
the outer surface of the lid.
The UP501 module doesn’t have a
“fix” LED, so there’s no need to drill
this hole. However, many other modules do have this LED and the hole
location will depend on the LED’s
location on your particular module.
Once the box holes have been
drilled, the PCB assembly can be
mounted on the lid on four M3 x
10mm tapped spacers and secured
using M3 x 6mm machine screws.
That done, check that you’ve fitted the
jumper shunts to each of the four SIL
pin headers (for LK1-LK4) as required
(see above). The box can then be lowsiliconchip.com.au
Other Uses For This Project
The NMEA output of this Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase can be used with a range of
navigation software and free Windows GPS-related software packages.
• For nautical chart and navigation software that works with NMEA-compatible GPS
units see: http://capcode.sourceforge.net/
• To show your position on Google Maps as you move (multiple options) see:
http://mboffin.com/earthbridge/
http://download.cnet.com/Google-Maps-with-GPS-Tracker/3000-12940_410494227.html?tag=keyword.feed&part=rss&subj=dl.gps
http://blog.geoblogspot.com/2008/09/navigator-101.html
• For a GPS data logger: https://github.com/javarobots/GpsDataLogger
• Many more here: http://www.maps-gps-info.com/fgpfw.html#Windows
ered down onto the lid, taking care to
ensure that LED1 and LED2 protrude
through their respective holes at the
top, and the assembly secured by fitting the four supplied self-tapping
screws.
Finally, fit four small adhesive rubber feet to the lid (which now becomes
the base) to prevent scratches due
to the protruding screw heads. Your
Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase is now
complete.
Counter connections
As with the simpler GPS 1pps Timebase unit, only three connections have
to be run to the 12-Digit Frequency
Counter. These can all be made via
a shielded stereo cable fitted with a
5-pin DIN plug which plugs into CON1
of the Deluxe GPS Timebase.
Fig.6 shows the wiring details. One
of the inner conductors of the stereo
cable connects to pin 3 of the 5-pin
DIN plug, to carry the 1pps output
pulses, while the other inner conductor connects to pin 1 of the DIN plug,
to carry the +5V supply rail for the
timebase. The shield braids are both
connected to pin 2 of the plug, to link
the two grounds.
At the other end of this cable, the
1pps signal lead and its shield braid
should be fitted with a BNC plug,
to connect to the counter’s external
timebase input (CON3). The +5V/GND
power lead can either be connected to a
5V DC plugpack or fitted with a 2.5mm
concentric DC plug which mates with
a matching DC power socket added to
the rear of the frequency counter.
In the latter case, you will also have
to connect the +5V and ground lines
inside the counter to the added DC
April 2013 65
16mm
DIAMETER
12.5
13
22
12
11
13
18.25
23.5
18.25
31
RIGHT-HAND END OF UB3 BOX
RH END OF BOX FRONT SIDE
31
RH END OF BOX REAR SIDE
RIGHT-HAND
END
3mm DIAMETER
HOLES
CL
64
11
OUTSIDE OF UB3 BOX
4 x 3.0mm DIAMETER HOLES
49.5
97.5
INSIDE UB3 BOX LID
Fig.5: the drilling details for the UB3 jiffy box. The rectangular cutouts can each be made by drilling a series of small
holes around the inside perimeter, then knocking out the centre piece and filing to shape.
power socket – see Fig.6. Make sure
that LK3 on the timebase PCB is in
the CTR (righthand) position if you are
powering the timebase section (ie, the
GPS module and IC1) from the counter
66 Silicon Chip
or an external plugpack.
Alternatively, if you intend running
the entire unit exclusively from USB
power, then you don’t need to install
this separate supply cable. Instead,
it’s simply a matter of connecting the
Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase to a USB
port on a PC (or a downstream USB
hub) using a standard USB cable. Don’t
forget to set LK3 to the USB position
siliconchip.com.au
IC17 74AC74
IC13 74AC00
4518B
IC7
74HC00
IC18
IC11 4012B
IC12 74AC10
4518B
IC9
4093B
100nF
100nF
GROUND
IC15 74AC00
1MHz
TP2
74AC163
VC1
6-30pF
8.00MHz
X1
TMR1 IN
+5V SUPPLY
PIC16F877A
100nF
D7
GND
+5V POWER
IC23
CON4 9-12V DC IN
5819
1pps PULSES
100nF
1s
100s
74HC373
100nF
10s
IC22
39pF
IC24
100nF
74HC161
27pF
2.5mm PLUG
100nF
SEL CHAN A
FREQ*/PRD
74HC244
EXT/INT TB
IC19
SEL CHAN B
74HC244
1000s
Fig.6: a shielded stereo cable can be used to make the connections between the Deluxe 1pps GPS Timebase and the frequency counter. The 1pps pulses are fed
in via the counter’s existing BNC socket on the rear panel, while a 2.5mm DC power socket can be added to accept a matching plug to pick up the counter’s +5V
and GND connections. You can omit this DC socket and the supply connections if you don’t intend powering the timebase unit from the counter.
TPG
TP4
HIGH
NORESOLUTION
ITULOSER HGIH
COUNTER
RETNUOC
MAIN
C 2012
DRBOARD
AOB NIAM
tob0411
121111121
140top 2102 C
TP1
TPG
4060B
IC6
X2
32768Hz
TP5 TPG
IC8
4093B
220k
10M
39pF
6-30pF
D6
VC2
1k
1PPS PULSES
CON3
EXT TB IN
IC10
100nF
100nF
IC14
IC16 74HC160
BNC PLUG
100nF
ADDED 2.5mm POWER SOCKET
100nF
100nF
CENTRE PIN
100nF
100nF
CRIMP SLEEVE
100nF
100nF
siliconchip.com.au
100nF
When you first connect the unit to a
PC, Windows will respond by installing its standard “virtual COM port”
driver. Once it’s done that, launch the
Device Manager (eg, via Control Panel)
and look under “Printers and Devices”
to make sure that you now have a “USB
serial port”. You can then also check
its Properties to discover the COM port
number and check that it’s working
properly. You can also set the driver’s
baud rate to match the GPS module’s
rate, which is usually 4800bps.
Assuming this checks out so far,
the next step is to download and
install Microchip’s custom MCP2200
Configuration Utility, available from:
ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/
DeviceDoc/MCP2200_Configuration_
Utility_v1.3.zip (5.13MB). Unzipping
this provides a self-installing version
of the MCP2200 Configuration Utility.
When you run this and then fire it
up, you should see a dialog window as
shown in Fig.7 – although you won’t
see any text as yet in the “Output”
box. This box will be blank initially,
while some of the smaller boxes will
have different contents.
Before clicking on the “Configure”
button at lower left, you’ll need to
ensure that the contents of all of the
smaller boxes are as shown in Fig.7.
You probably won’t need to change the
contents of the Manufacturer, Product,
Vendor ID or Product ID boxes, nor
will you need to click on the “Update
VID/PID” button. However, you may
need to click on the check box next to
“Enable TX/RX LEDs”, to display the
tick as shown.
Similarly you may need to click on
the check box next to “Enable Suspend
Pin”, to display its tick.
If the “Baud Rate” box is not showing “4800”, click on the down arrow
to its right and then select “4800” from
the drop-down list. Then, if the “I/O
Config” box is showing something
other than “00000000”, click inside
the box so that you can type in the
correct “00000000” text string.
Similarly, if the “Output Default”
box is not showing “11111111”, enter
in that text string yourself.
Now turn your attention to the “LED
Function” section at lower right and
click on the “Blink LEDs” radio button
if this isn’t already selected (ie, dis-
4148
Configuration
D5
4148
22k
if powering the entire unit from a
USB port.
April 2013 67
Fig.7: this is the dialog you will see when you
launch Microchip’s MCP2200 Configuration
Utility (except that the Output box will be
blank). Configure it as described in the text.
playing the central bullet). Similarly,
click on the “200ms” radio button so
that it too is selected.
At this stage you should be seeing
a display very much like that shown
in Fig.7, except that the “Output”
window should be blank. If so, you
can now click on the “Configure” button at lower left. There should then
be a brief pause while the configuration utility “does its thing” with the
MCP2200 chip in your Deluxe GPS
1pps Timebase, then the text shown in
Fig.7 should appear in the “Output”
window. This indicates that the configuration routine has been completed
and that the unit is now communicating with the the PC via the USB cable.
Once it’s done that, you can then
close the Configuration Utility.
Installing the PC software
The final step is to install a software
application to allow your PC to analyse
and display the useful information
carried in the NMEA 0183 output
data stream. There are many software
apps capable of doing this but one that
we particularly recommend is called
“GPS Diagnostics V1.05”. Developed
by CommLinx Solutions, this freeware
program can be downloaded from
download.cnet.com/windows
The quickest way to get to the
68 Silicon Chip
Fig.8: the GPS Diagnostics dialog displays a range of information
from the analysed NMEA data, including UTC time, longitude,
latitude, altitude, the number of satellites in “view” and the signal
strength from each one.
download page is to search for it by
typing its full name in the search box
at top right.
Downloading the software is a 2step process. First, you have to download the customised installer program cbsidlm-tr1_10a-GPSDiag-ORG10055902.exe (620kB). You then run
this installer to download and install
the GPS Diagnostics program itself.
Once it’s installed, launch the
program to bring up a dialog window
much like that shown in Fig.8. The
only differences are that all of the text
boxes and bargraphs will initially be
blank – including the large box at the
bottom labelled “Received data”.
Earlier, when you first plugged the
USB cable from the GPS Time Receiver
into the PC’s USB port, Windows in-
stalled it as a USB Serial COM port.
The allocated port number could then
be determined by going to Device Manager and checking under Ports (COM
& LPT). Usually, this will be COM3,
COM4 or COM5.
Once you’ve determined the allocated port number, the next step is to
select the corresponding port number
in the GPS Diagnostics window. That’s
dome by selecting the appropriate
radio button at upper left. This tells the
program which COM port the incoming NMEA 0183 data stream from the
Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase will be on
(in our case, it’s COM5).
Analysing NMEA data
You should now find that GPS
Diagnostics starts displaying all the
siliconchip.com.au
This photo demonstrates the accuracy of the counter when using
the Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase. Here we’re measuring a GPSderived 10MHz frequency and the counter shows 10MHz exactly.
information coming into the PC via
that COM port. You’ll see the NMEA
sentences as they arrive in the large
Received Data window at the bottom
and within a few seconds, you’ll also
see the UTC time and date, the longitude and latitude, the altitude of your
GPS receiver module and a great deal
of other interesting information (see
upper right of Fig.8).
It will also show the number of GPS
satellites currently in “view”, plus a
bar chart for each one indicating the
approximate signal strength. Under
each chart, you’ll also see its PRN
number, its current elevation and
azimuth, its signal-to-noise ratio (SNR)
and whether or not it’s currently being
used. For example, when the screen
grab of Fig.8 was captured, our prototype Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase was
able to view and use the signals from
no fewer than 12 satellites.
That’s a bit unusual though. Most of
the time, it will use anywhere between
five and nine satellites, while at odd
times there may be only three or four
in view and usable.
So how do you verify that the unit
has a good “fix” and is delivering usable GPS-locked 1pps pulses to your
12-Digit Frequency Counter? That’s
done in GPS Diagnostics by examining
the “Mode” message box. This shows
“Auto 3D” in Fig.8, which means
that it was able to achieve the highest
level of fix when this screen grab was
captured.
When you get this message, you can
be satisfied that your counter is getting
the best possible 1pps pulses.
When the GPS receiver is able to
see only a small number of satellites
(eg, two or three), the Mode box dis-
play can drop back to “Manual 2D”.
This still indicates that the receiver
has achieved a “fix”, although some
of the navigation information won’t
be of high quality. However, the 1pps
pulses being fed to the counter should
still be OK.
It’s only time to worry if the Mode
message box is blank or showing “No
fix”, since that indicates that the unit
will probably not be delivering any
1pps pulses at all. If that happens,
the trick is to try moving the unit to
a location where it can “view” more
of the sky and therefore “see” more
satellites so that it can get a good fix.
In short, GPS Diagnostics is an excellent tool for optimising the position
of your Deluxe GPS 1pps Timebase. It
also allows you to then monitor the
reception conditions on a day-to-day
SC
basis.
Frequency Counter Measurement Accuracy
I
N THE FIRST article describing our
12-Digit Frequency Counter (SILICON
CHIP, December 2012), we advised readers
that by using a GPS-based external 1pps
timebase, it should be possible to achieve
measurement accuracy approaching that
of an atomic clock. In the specifications
panel, we also quoted measurement
accuracy with a GPS 1Hz timebase of approximately ±1 part in 1011.
Subsequent testing has quantified the
accuracy that can be achieved. Over the
last three months, Jim has made measurements using the set-up shown above, with
the 12-Digit Frequency Counter fed with
an external timebase (using the simpler
February 2013 unit for the first five weeks
and the deluxe unit described here for the
remaining seven weeks). The counter was
siliconchip.com.au
measuring the 10MHz output from our
GPS-based Frequency Reference (SILICON
CHIP, March-May 2007) and was set for a
gating time of 1000 seconds, so that each
measurement took 16.66 minutes. This
was done to provide the highest measurement resolution.
The results from this extended testing
are: the GPS-locked 10MHz signal from
the 10MHz Frequency Reference gave
readings of 10,000,000.000 ± 0.003Hz –
with a roughly Gaussian or “bell shaped”
distribution centred on 10,000,000.000Hz.
In other words, a measurement accuracy
of ±3 parts in 1010 can be achieved.
Note that with this measurement set-up
there are three sources of measurement
jitter: (1) the GPS module in the 1pps
timebase(s); (2) the GPS module in the
GPS-Based 10MHz Frequency Reference
and (3) the inevitable jitter in the PLL
(phase-locked loop) inside the 10MHz
Frequency Reference itself (used to lock
the 10MHz output to the GPS 1pps pulses).
Clearly it isn’t easy to separate these
three sources of jitter, but with all three
present they still allowed us to achieve
a measurement accuracy of ±3 parts in
1010. So the true measurement accuracy
of the 12-digit frequency counter with the
GPS 1Hz timebase is somewhere between
±3 parts in 1010 and ±1 part in 1011 – still
very impressive.
Unless you are measuring an atomic
frequency reference, your measurement
accuracy is like to be far in excess of the
drift and jitter of any source that is commonly available.
April 2013 69
New Products For 2013...
Build It Yourself Electronics Centre
Issue:
April 2013
New Releases!
Access over 14,000 internet radio stations from your home hi-fi!
This stylish wireless internet radio player will perfectly compliment your existing AV system. It
provides you with access to DAB+ digital radio stations, plus virtually any internet radio station or
podcast via wireless internet (no computer required!). Plus it can stream music stored on your PC
via UPnP. Size: 430x90x285mm.
295
$
NEW!
T 2000
Thermaltronics® are widely used
in the medical industry for
servicing sensitive equipment.
Thermaltronics® 80W Digital Soldering Station
399
$
A 2696
NEW!
159
$
Turn your ‘dumb telly’ into a smart telly!
Smart TV’s are all the rage - allowing you to stream movies, music
and photos to your big screen, plus access an array of smartphone
style games & apps. Simply plugs into a spare HDMI input. Capable
of streaming 1080p HD video over your home wireless connection.
1GB of RAM, 4GB internal memory, plus micro SD slot.
Ideal for diagnosis &
servicing of electronics!
NEW!
$
Q 0968
N 0706
Provides up to 1A charge current for keeping car, caravan or 4WD
batteries topped up. Ideal for portable situations where temporary
charging might be needed, such as campsites. Includes croc clips
and car accessory plug. Size: 977Lx342Wx22Dmm.
X 4220
NEW!
34.95
$
Stylish LED Table Lamp
Korjo® 4xUSB
Travel Adaptor
Provides light wherever you need
it from it’s 1200 lux high
brightness lamp. 3 adjustable
light level with one-touch
dimming. Size: 210x100x350mm.
Enough ports for all your portable
devices! 2.1A max current shared
between 4 USB ports. Includes
adaptors for Australian, US, UK and
European outlets. 100-240V ac.
Great for camping!
NEW!
13.95
$
X 0207
Bluetooth® Headset
- No more tangled cords.
SAVE 24%
X 2283 Bayonet
X 2273 Edison Screw
25
$
ea
Listen to music & take phone
calls at the tap of a button!
Superb wireless audio performance for music
listening, plus inbuilt mic and phone controls
for hands-free talking. Range up to 10m.
In-built batteries recharge via USB.
SAVE 28%
50
$
C 9036
High Brightness LED 240V Lamps
Far exceeds the life of CFL bulbs. Fits standard
screw or bayonet household fittings. Warm
white, 10 watts (equivalent to a 60W incandescent bulb). Great for table lamps!
NEW!
NEW!
15W Portable Solar Panel Charger
A 0309
Handy LED high brightness
torch with a slide out case
which houses a work lamp.
Top of case houses
magnets & hanging hook.
Requires 3xAAA batteries.
295
89.95
Great for
the study!
2 In 1 Torch
& Lamp Combo
$
$
Remote controlled by your iPhone or iPad! Loads of fun for small kids
& big kids alike. The adjustable pop up turret camera provides a clear
view of where you are going - plus it records video and photos! Range up
to 20m. Requires 6xAA batteries. Check out the YouTube video online.
39.95
The first clamp meter in our
range that specialises in low
current, high resolution
readings down to 1mA. Suits
AC or DC use up to 80A.
Easy to read backlit LCD.
2 year warranty.
D 2810
Android 4.1 powered
X 3075
I-Spy Wi-Fi Controlled Camera Tank
NEW!
Revolutionary new soldering station design uses special alloy tips
for incredibly fast start up time (under 10s) & heat regulation.
Cartridge tip design eliminates the need for ceramic elements.
Dual outputs for use with extra handle. Includes 1.5mm chisel tip.
NEW!
129
$
With live app camera view!
$
Finally a clamp meter
for electronics use!
119
NEW!
Dashboard
Camera Recorder
World famous brand name
weatherproof inline connector
kits (male and female included).
Great for automotive use!
Pins
S 9430A
• Records full motion video & audio to a 16GB
Micro SD card • Set and forget auto recording
• Ideal for fleet vehicles • Instant evidence
when analysing accidents, damage, driver
assaults, etc • Includes software.
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
»70 S
Springvaleilicon
VIC: 891
Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St
Chip
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
Q 1026A
SAVE 15%
Deutsch® Connector Kits
Model
RRP
2
P 7882
3
P 7883
$11
$17.60
$22.10
$33.15
4
P 7884
6
P 7886
.95
38
$
Analogue Multimeter
Ideal for observing constantly varying
quantities such as cycling voltages or
speaker resonance testing.
Features: • 10A DC current
• 20kΩ/Volt sensitivity • Transistor
tester • Mirrored scale • Includes
test leads.
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
siliconchip.com.au
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
SAVE 19%
38
$
T 2590
SAVE $40
Great for the AV technician or
auto electrician! A top quality
gas tool which is easy to use
and completely portable. Kit
includes blow torch tip, hot air
tip, hot knife tip, solder, sponge
& carry case.
SAVE 21%
55
$
T 2592
189
$
S 8745
Iroda® 70W Portable
Gas Soldering Irons
T 2480
With detachable
wireless monitor
With
refillable
cartridge
SAVE 17%
29
$
See Inside Walls, Pipes & Conduits...
...with this handheld inspection camera & detachable wireless LCD
monitor. Great for accessing difficult locations such as wall cavities,
ceiling spaces, pipework, industrial machinery & engines. Requires
4xAA batteries for camera. Screen fitted with rechargeable battery
(charger included).
Also great for the
home handyman!
Reduce Heatshrink Instantly!
Iroda® Pocket sized thermo-gun.
Great for reducing heatshrink, removing
adhesives & paint. With a flick of the trigger it
instantly powers up to 650°C!
We’ve got the best workbench & toolbox deals!
X 0430
NEW!
12
$
Ideal for field
servicing
T 5036
NEW!
28
$
.95
.95
3.5x Handheld Magnifier
10 dioptre lens with two LED’s for a clear view.
Requires 3 x AAA batteries.
Double Sided Parts Case
Nifty parts case with adjustable dividers for up
to 15 compartments on one side, plus 10
removeable containers on the other.
Autoranging
True RMS DMM
NEW!
50
NEW!
27
.95
T 5032
T 2171
29
$
.95
NEW!
14.95
NEW!
9
These tip tinners maintain your soldering iron
tips for best performance! Ideal for servicing
and production use. T 1326 model suits regular tip maintenance, whilst the T 1328 heavy
duty is for recovery of blackened oxidised tips.
H 1617
Q 1074
NEW!
29.95
$
10pc bulk buy!
NEW!
T 2327 10 x #0
T 2328 10 x #1
19
$
.95
Top Notch Driver Bit Packs
10pc packs of commonly used (and worn out!)
#0 & #1 Philips bits. 50mm length.
NEW!
Impact resistant plastic tool cases with
removeable centre section.
T 5030: 315x175x130mm, 5kg.
T 5032: 410x210x185mm, 10kg.
SAVE 17%
Stubby Ratchet Driver
A must have for the glovebox or kitchen drawer! This little driver houses 7 bits, ready when
you need it. *Colour may vary.
Combo Wire Stripper
& Kwik Crimper
37
$
T 5000
Reinforced
for added
protection
Aluminium Tool Case
Aluminium panels with reinforced corners &
seams. Locking latches. Customisable inner
foam. 330x230x90 mm.
Combines a spring loaded
ratchet wire stripper, cutting blade & kwik crimper
in a single tool. Saves
space in the toolbox! Suits
10-24 AWG cable. Crimps
red, blue, yellow kwik connectors.
22
T 1480
11.95
$
Squeezy Blow Brush
$
Great for quick removal of dust and debris from
inside equipment & keyboards. Supplied fine
point & brush nozzles.
Got a board that’s gone wrong?
Repair and rework solder masks
with this hard permanent PCB
coating. Protects and insulates PCB
tracks and components. 15ml.
NEW!
15.95
Handy time saver!
T 3188
4 sizes to
choose from!
SAVE 23%
19
$
SAVE 22%
X 0199
Any 3 for
30
$
With flashing
mode!
1W 60 Lumen LED Headband Torch
T 1528
Express Order
Hotlines:
Ideal for bonding heatsinks to chips, CPU’s,
high power displays. Note: not designed as a
replacement for heatsink compound. 100gm.
$
With bonus built in 4 LED work lamp. Great for
working on cars, camping trips and more!
Requires 3xAAA batteries.
SAVE 26%
Bond Devices
To Heatsinks
Repair Solder
Masks Instantly
T 2191
Handy Tool
Carry Cases
siliconchip.com.au
Maintain & Repair Your Iron Tips
Great for printer
servicing
$ .95
T 5030
T 1326 Light Duty
T 1328 Heavy Duty
22pc Palm Ratchet Driver Set
A ratchet wrench designed for working in tight
spaces. Fits in the palm of your hand, or use
with the optional screw in wrench handle.
Supplied with a variety of tips and sockets for
general electronic servicing.
$
12.50
SAVE 20%
$
$
NEW!
$
The new replacement for our very
popular Q 1073
multimeter.
Features true RMS
AC measurement,
auto ranging with
override, 10MHz frequency counter, data
hold & relative
modes. Cat III 600V.
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
Resin Core Solder Triple Pack
Buy any 3 rolls of 200gm solder for $30.
Save 22%. Top quality, 60% tin, 40% lead.
T 1090: 0.5mm, T 1100: 0.8mm
T 1110: 1.0mm, T 1122: 1.6mm
April 2013 71
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
Great Value Power Accessories...
Stay Charged Up!
About the size
of a phone!
Compact & efficient
bench top power!
M 8303 0-30V 3A
Ideal for the study!
Monitor energy use & cut standby power.
SAVE 34%
Handy powerboard with in-built energy meter to calculate
running costs. Helps to lower your power bill by cutting standby
power to ‘slave’ devices when a ‘master’ appliance is turned
off. Surge protected up to 30,000A!
39
$
P 8134
NEW!
NEW!
$
$
SAVE 24%
15
Must have
for electrical
trades!
159 189
SAVE $20
89
$
M 8998
Handy Car
USB Adaptor
Stay charged up
on the road!
Max 2A.
$
Q 3005
M 8623A
HANDY!
9
$ .95
144W Laptop/Notebook Power Supply
Top quality replacement power supply. USB output powers
peripherals. Includes 9 tips to suit most laptops. Selectable
voltages (12-24VDC), max 8.5A. Includes mains lead.
15
44
$
Reliable, long
life 12V power
for your project!
Premium 12V SLA Batteries
Great for security, solar power systems,
UPS, comms gear etc.
Capacity
Part
Normally
2 For...
1.3Ah
S 5075B
$19.95
$30
3.3Ah
S 5080
$29.80
$40
4.5Ah
S 5084
$27.95
$48
SAVE 34%
7.2Ah
S 5090B
$29.95
$52
2 For
12Ah
S 5098
$59
$90
X 8018
Not just for PC’s.
Great for CCTV
& home theatre
30
$
SAVE $20
149
$
Emergency 240V Backup Power Supply.
Powershield Safeguard 750VA UPS. This quality UPS unit will
prevent appliance damage caused by power fluctuations or
blackouts - PLUS keep power on during a blackout! Ideal for
PC’s, security, phone systems & even home theatre! Also
equipped with RJ45 phone line surge protection.
7 Day Digital Timer
Save on your power bill by
automating appliances. Each
day can switch on and off up to
10 times! Random holiday
mode. Count down timer for
heaters & fans.
Q 3215
SAVE 17%
33
$
Suits 5Ah
to 80Ah
batteries
S 4904 2xAAA
NEW!
8
$ .95
S 4906 2xAA
SAVE 27%
35
$
A 0280
NEW!
39.95
17.50
$
A 0712
D 2382 Micro USB
D 2383 Apple 30 Pin
Great for caravans
& 4WD’s
Battery Discharge Protector
LED Light USB Charge Leads
Prevents damage which can occur to batteries
when they excessively discharged by a load.
Adjustable cut off 10.4-13.3V. Auto re-connect.
Dual USB Mains Adaptor
SAVE 24%
15
$
Adjustable output voltages
between 3 and 12V. 600mA
current. Ideal replacement for
hard to find voltages!
Recharge standard
alkaline batteries and
help save the planet.
This latest generation
“green” charger will
save you money AND
reduce the number of
batteries in landfills.
Charges AA & AAA
Alkaline or NiMH.
Includes mains lead.
$
M 9449A
Multivoltage Plugpack
Recharge Alkaline
Batteries Up To
20 Times!
NEW!
Bright blue LED lights show the power
flowing! Available in micro USB or Apple
30 pin dock. 0.9m.
One-Touch Battery Testing
Provides a quick and easy
verification of battery condition for
12V sealed lead acid (SLA), wet
cells, gel cell & AGM batteries.
Applies a 20A test load and
determines charge level.
7
$ .95
Why pay more? These top
quality Powerhouse® lithium batteries offer
excellent performance in high power devices.
M 8620A
Simply plugs into your car
accessory socket & keeps your
portable devices powered up.
Keeps game consoles charged
on long road trips! 3-12VDC
adjustable, 1.8A max.
D 0873
NEW!
Long Life
Lithium Batteries
Multivoltage
Car Power Supply
M 8627A
D 0504 2500mAh
Away from mains power? No worries!
Allows quick testing of earth leakage circuit
breakers (ELCB) and residual current
devices (RCD points). Plus it also confirms
correct power point wiring.
$
SAVE 20%
D 0506 6000mAh
Due
mid-April
$
.95
240V Wiring & ELCB Tester
SAVE 24%
Laptop & USB
Car Charger
24.95
59
$
These mobile battery banks keep your smartphone or tablet charged up even when you are
miles from a 240V outlet. Available in 6000mAh
(5V 2A output) or 2500mAh (5V 1A output).
5-7hr recharge time. Includes a range of adaptors, including Apple (30 pin) & Samsung plugs.
Buy two
for $16
With USB
This compact supply
simply plugs into a car
accessory socket & provides regulated power to
a laptop. Selectable voltages 15, 16, 18, 19,
20, 22 and 24VDC, up to 120W.
Supplied with 8 adaptors to suit
most laptops.
NEW!
NEW!
M 8305 0-30V 5A
Batteries not included.
Price breakthrough for lab
power supplies! These quality
units are great for servicing,
repair and design of electronics.
Low noise switchmode design.
Fine/coarse voltage and current
controls. Backlit LCD. Size:
85Wx160Hx205Dmm.
D 2389
USB to Lightning
Charge Lead
NEW!
19.95
$
Got one of the latest Apple
devices? Pick up a spare
charge lead for the office! 1m.
With pass through 240V socket
so you don’t lose an outlet!
Great for keeping your phone,
tablet or MP3 player charged.
M 8892
BARGAIN!
12.95
$
Buy 2
for $20
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
72 Silicon Chip
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy siliconchip.com.au
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
Resellers:
Build It Yourself Electronics
14 Solar Kits
In One!
NEW KIT!
9
$ .95
A fun and educational kit
designed to assemble 14
different ways to inspire
and challenge your kids
to learn about solar
power and electronics.
Includes parts to build a
snake, dog, crab, boxer,
Dog
turtle, row boat, beetle
and more! No soldering
NEW KIT!
or special tools required.
$
.95
Ages 8 and up.
K 1113
K 1110
Solar Grasshopper Kit
A life size grasshopper with a
solar panel on its back. When
he’s placed in the sun, his body
vibrates back and forth. Ages 8
and up. No tools, soldering or
batteries required!
24
K 1115
NEW KIT!
34.95
$
Roly-poly
‘Follow Me’ Robot Kit
Row Boat & more!
Uses four inbuilt microphones to
detect sound (such as a hand clap)
and moves toward it. Ages 8+. No
soldering required. Requires 4 x AAA
batteries (not included).
K 1116
K 1122
SAVE 21%
55
K 1107
Robotic Arm & Claw Kit
A great introduction to basic robotics - ideal
project for students. Includes five motors
allowing base rotation, shoulder, elbow and
wrist motion, plus claw for picking up objects
(up to 100g). Includes wired controller.
K 4030
NEW KIT!
NEW KIT!
$
24.95
15.95
$
$
Salt Water Powered Buggy Kit
A V8 powered buggy that runs on salt water!
No batteries required. This kit features a
detailed engine with moving cylinders and
crank shaft. Ages 8 and up.
NEW KIT!
NEW KIT!
$
$
Salt Water Crawling Spider Kit
This creepy crawly spider uses a salt
water reactive fuel cell to power its legs.
Just by adding some salt water to the cell
plate, the spider will creep around. No
batteries required! Ages 8 and up.
K 5804
NEW KIT!
89.95
$
29
54
.95
.95
K 6047
Mains Timer Kit For Fans & Lights.
High Energy Ignition Kit
(SC November ‘12) Revised design for 2013 cheaper too! Use it to replace a failed ignition
module in an older car or upgrade a
mechanical ignition system when restoring a
vehicle. It will work with virtually any ignition
system that uses a single coil.
(SC August ‘12) This small module can save
power by switching off fans or lighting after a
period between 5s and 1 hour. It can also be
hooked up to a mains rated push button for a
timed manual activation. 5A/1250VA max
rating. Note: must be installed by a licenced
electrician in most states.
LED Musicolour Kit
(SC October ‘12) Updated Musicolour
for LED technology! A continuously
changing kaleidoscope of colour changing
in time to the music. Controls up to 16
strings of LEDs tuned to individual
frequency bands. Great for Christmas
lighting or DJ’s and parties.
K 4500
NEW KIT!
54.95
$
NEW KIT!
K 2553
69.95
$
K 5181
SAVE $20
129
$
‘Classic-D’ Amplifier Module Kit
(SC November ‘12) A rugged and reliable
Class-D audio amplifier producing up to 250W
into 4Ω. This high efficiency, high power
design is ideal for building into any audio
amplifier design. Class-D amps are
commonplace amongst consumer equipment.
Low distortion <0.01%. Based on the IRS2092
audio amplifier chip.
K 5182 Optional speaker protector
$19.95
Digital Audio Signal Generator Kit
(SC March ‘10). With S/PDIF coaxial and
optical output - plus dual analog outputs!
Incredibly low distortion (typically <0.06%).
Sine, square, triangle and sawtooth wave
generator. Plus waveform mixing, pulse and
sweep modes. Ideal for RMS and music power
testing of amps or speakers; testing DACs &
crossovers. Requires 4xAA or 9V plugpack.
Dog Blaster Kit
Keeps your woofer quiet!
(SC August ‘12) Are barking dogs
keeping you up to all hours? The dog
blaster hooks up to high power piezo
tweeters (not supplied) and outputs an
ultra high frequency sound to deter dogs
from barking constantly. Note: Please use
responsibly. Excessive use may actually make
barking worse if the dog gets used to the noise.
B 0092
Sale Ends April 30th 2013
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
siliconchip.com.au
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2013. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
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April 2013 73
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What do you do when you have
stuff left over from another
project? You think of uses for it,
of course! Here we make some
surplus halogen down-light
transformers the heart of a simple
car battery charger.
Rugged
Battery
Charger
from
es
Bi ts’n’Piec
R
eaders will recall the feature in
February this year where we replaced some power-hungry 12V
halogen down-lights in our office with
much more efficient and brighter LED
fittings from Tenrod. We’re absolutely
delighted with the result (you will be
too if you follow our lead).
But then we started thinking what
we could do with the now-surplus
12VAC transformers and sundry light
fittings/globes.
The light fittings and holders were
consigned to the “round file” – they
were discoloured with age, the wiring
was brittle and we certainly didn’t want
to put in any more halogen down-lights
(that was the point of the exercise,
after all). But at least the transformers
were functional and it seemed such a
74 Silicon Chip
shame to bin them. What could we do
with them?
We quickly came up with a number
of ideas and this is the first: a basic car
battery charger that can put out a good
10A or so, with three of these trannys
in parallel.
Commercial chargers with this rating
are expensive so if we could cobble up
a cheap equivalent, so much the better.
We’re assuming that the transformers
you remove are iron-cored and not the
so-called electronic type. “Electronic”
transformers cannot be used for our
purpose.
Typically the iron-cored transformers are labelled 4A (or close to it) and
By Ross Tester
11.4-11.6VAC. That means they’re
intended for 12V 50W halogen downlights.
If you’re removing them all from
one area, the chances are they will be
identical.
This is quite important as far as this
project is concerned – you should not
mix’n’match brands otherwise one of
them may tend to take the lion’s share
of the load.
If your transformers are identical in
brand and style, the chances are also
good that they were installed at the
same time and are all part of the same
batch, wound on the same machine, so
the output voltages should be the same.
You can check this out before use with
a DMM if you wish – ours were within
a couple of millivolts of each other.
siliconchip.com.au
We’re using three transformers in
parallel which gives us a nominal
output of just on 12A (ie, 3 x 3.95A).
You won’t quite get that much (we’ll
explain why shortly) but as we mentioned earlier, it should be good for
10A or so. If you only need (say) 6A or
so, or if you only have two identical
transformers, go right ahead.
Using identical transformers in parallel is not too dissimilar to paralleling
windings on the one transformer to give
higher current.
For example, you might have a transformer which has two separate secondary windings rated at 6V, 1A – you can
connect these (in the right phase) in
series to give 12V <at> 1A or in parallel to
give 6V <at> 2A. That is effectively what
we are doing here.
It’s not quite according to Hoyle but
One of the
three identical
halogen downlight transformers
we removed. They are
each rated at 11.4V, 3.95A.
siliconchip.com.au
we’ve done it before and it works.
Again, though, we must emphasise
that they must be identical transformers
– and definitely not electronic versions!
What else do you need?
Basically, all you need is a hefty
bridge rectifier to convert the AC output
of the transformers to unsmoothed DC,
to charge a battery.
Naturally, you’re also going to need
hardware to safely connect the transformer primaries together (and thence
to the mains) plus connections from the
secondaries to the bridge rectifier and
thence output cables for connection to
the battery to be charged.
Add a case to put it all in and Bob’s
your uncle.
Well, nearly so. It will also need a
mains cable, mains switch and fuse.
We elected to use an IEC mains socket
with integrated fuseholder – saves
having a mains lead dangling out the
back to get damaged and we also have
plenty of IEC mains cords left over from
other devices – you probably have a
few as well.
You can get an IEC mains (male)
socket with both integrated fuseholder
AND mains switch but we didn’t want
the mains switch on the back of the
case, so elected to use a separate switch
up front.
And because it’s now getting rather
difficult to buy a round-hole-mounting
mains switch with an integrated neon
indicator, we added a separate neon
bezel.
The case
This presented something of a prob-
The Supercheap Auto Storage Box.
Remove the seven plastic trays and
presto! A case complete with handle!
April 2013 75
POWER
S1
T1
12V
230V
BR1
F1
5A
CON1
INTEGRATED
IEC MAINS
CONNECTOR
AND FUSE
HOLDER
~ 35A/400V
T2
A
E
–
~
T3
N
230V
SC
BITS’N’PIECES BATTERY CHARGER
lem. We wanted a metal case, preferably steel, to house the charger but
once again, suitable cases are starting
to become as rare as the proverbial.
And those that are available are
worth a fortune – definitely not what
we wanted for a “surplus parts” project.
So instead of a purpose-made case,
we purchased a steel storage box from
Supercheap Auto for less than $20. It’s
N
E
+
THERMAL
SWITCH
NC – 90o
OUTPUT
TO
BATTERY
UNDER
CHARGE
12V
T1-T3: 230V – 12V AC
HALOGEN LIGHT
TRANSFORMERS
2013
CON2
+
12V
230V
NEON
BEZEL
–
Fig.1: the circuit diagram of our battery charger shows
that it is a conventional full-wave rectified supply. What
is not conventional is driving the bridge rectifier with
three transformers in a parallel. It’s not strictly-speaking
according to the rule book – but we’ve proved that it works!
called an “SCA Multistorage Case, 7
Compartment”.
It’s more than strong enough, about
the right size and it has a couple of nice
features such as a carry handle and
provision for semi-permanent locking.
If you’re not in a hurry, Supercheap
Auto regularly have “20% off everything sales” so it could be yours for
even less.
But if you happen to have a suitable
case on hand, so much the better.
Output leads
We could have made up a set of
charger leads from heavy-duty cable
and large alligator clips but “why reinvent wheels?”. Cheap jumper leads
already have the heavy-duty cable and
large alligator clips – all we had to do
was remove the clips from one end.
We’ve seen these before in bargain
A
A
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING
OVER MAINS
CONNECTIONS
T1
ELEPHANTIDE
(OR BLANK PCB)
INSULATION
SHEET
CASE EARTH
CONNECTION
ALUMINIUM
HEATSINK
SHEET
T2
POWER
S1
NEON BEZEL
BRIDGE RECT
–
+
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING OVER
SWITCH CONNECTIONS
76 Silicon Chip
T3
THERMAL
SWITCH
TO
BATTERY
siliconchip.com.au
stores for less than $10 but of course,
when we went to get them there
weren’t any.
Supercheap Auto had some but
they weren’t super cheap. However,
we managed to get a set from Repco
for less than $20.
You may even have a surplus set
of leads that you can sacrifice for this
project – they don’t have to be superhigh current leads.
If you have to buy some, get the
cheapest you can find. Normally, we’d
never recommend these – as jumper
leads they make great shoelaces but
for our purpose, they’re more than
adequate.
By the way, most jumper leads have
rather extravagant claims for current
rating – like 400A and so on. But if
you look at the leads closely, you’ll
see that they are probably about 80%
insulation and 20% (or less) wire.
Given the fact that they are intended
for 12V (or perhaps 24V) usage, we
wonder why they need insulation
rated at, what, kilovolts and grossly
exaggerated wire “capacity”? Hmm!
ZR-1324 <at> $4.95). We don’t need either the 35A or 400V ratings but they
give a nice margin for safety.
Following this is a normally closed
(NC) 90° thermal cutout (Jaycar ST3825 <at> $5.75) to protect against shorting the output leads.
At the same time, we also grabbed
a strip of 12-way ultra-large terminal
strip (HM-3198 <at> $2.95) and a couple
of metres of 25A hookup wire (WH3080/3082 <at> $2.20/m).
Finally, we wanted some large
output terminals and Jaycar had a
polarised heavy-duty pair (PT-0457
<at> $6.95).
We could have saved this cost by
bringing the charger leads out through
a gland but again, we didn’t want to
have leads permanently hanging from
the case.
Apart from nuts and bolts to mount
everything (see parts list), rubber feet,
some heatshrink tubing and scraps of
thick aluminium (to act as a heatsink)
and PCB material (for an insulator),
that was it.
What else did we use?
OK, so if you have to buy everything
(except the transformers!) it all adds
up to $60-ish but we couldn’t find a
The main item is the rectifier – we
used a metal 35A/400V bridge (Jaycar
siliconchip.com.au
The cost
charger of this power for under $100.
If you have a lot of what’s needed in
your junk box – and many hobbyists
will – the cost will obviously come
down.
How it works
See the circuit of Fig.1. This one
is definitely not rocket science! It’s
a typical full-wave rectified supply
producing pulsating DC at the output.
What’s not typical is that we’ve used
three transformers, all wired in parallel so all contribute their share of the
nominal 12VAC <at> 12A output to the
bridge rectifier.
(We mentioned earlier that the
transformers are labelled 11.4V but
this would be at the full 3.95A output.
Unloaded or not fully loaded, the voltage is at least 12V, perhaps a bit more).
Once rectified, the pulsating DC
voltage will be 12 x 1.4142 or 17V, less
the voltage drop across the two diodes
in the bridge rectifier conducting at the
time (2 x 0.6 or 1.2V) = 15.8V. This is
the peak voltage.
Because it is unsmoothed (ie, pulsating) DC, the voltage you read with
your multimeter will be less than this,
actually peak x 0.707. So the output
should measure around 15.8 x 0.707 or
April 2013 77
This set of four scope wave-forms
demonstrates the operation of this
car battery charger.
The yellow trace shows the
unsmoothed DC output of the battery
charger with no battery connected
but with a load of 1kΩ (to give a
clean waveform).
The green trace shows the output of
the battery charger when connected
to a battery which is being charged
at about 3A. The humps in the
green waveform occur each time
the battery gets a pulse of current
(ie, 100 times a second or 100Hz).
The flat portions of the green trace
represent the battery voltage at times
between each current pulse while the
pink trace (partly obscured by the
green trace) represents the battery
voltage when charger is turned off.
Naturally the average voltage when
it is being charged will be slightly
higher than when the charger is
turned off. Hence the green trace is
slightly above the pink trace.
The peaks of the yellow trace are
slightly above the peaks of the green
trace (battery voltage under charge).
This is to be expected because the
battery places a considerable load
on the charger output.
11.17V. But aren’t we trying to charge
a 12V battery? How can we do this
if the output voltage is less than the
nominal battery voltage?
The reason is that current flows into
the battery whenever the peak voltage
exceeds the battery’s nominal voltage.
Remember a moment ago we said that
the peak voltage was about 15.8V?. So
when the charger voltage rises above
12V (or whatever the battery voltage
is at the time) current will flow into
the battery, charging it.
And this happens 100 times every
The twin output terminals (binding
posts) we used – these have large
holes which easily fit the jumper lead
cables. Some binding posts can be a
real pain to connect to!
78 Silicon Chip
The blue trace shows the amplitude
of the 100Hz current pulses being fed
the battery. It represents the voltage
across a 0.1Ω resistor in series with
negative lead from the battery charger
and has a peak-to-peak voltage of
958mV (across 0.1Ω). This means
that the current pulses are peaking
at 9.58A; much higher than might
be thought with an average current
of about 3A.
Note that the maximum current
delivered by the charger will depend
on both the mains voltage at your
location and the state of the battery
being charged.
second as the pulsating DC voltage
starts at zero, rises up to 15.8V then
falls to zero again. See the scope grab
above.
How much current?
We mentioned earlier that you
wouldn’t expect to get the full 12A
from three 4A transformers. There are
We chose an IEC socket with integral
fuseholder (at the bottom) – it means
the fuse is before the mains switch but
this isn’t a great problem.
The latches on this case have a screw
hole right through them which means
you can semi-permanently lock the
case. (See screw & nut at bottom of
latch). That’s important if there are
young hands around . . .
siliconchip.com.au
losses in the system – for example,
the voltage losses in the rectifier and
also due to the resistance of the wiring
and leads.
But we’d be surprised if you didn’t
get at least 10A peak into a “flat” battery
as ours did. This reduces, of course, as
the battery charges.
The one big disadvantage of a simple
battery charger like this is that it will
continue to try to “charge” the battery,
even though the battery is nominally
“charged”.
So beware of this – if the battery
fluid starts to bubble (gas), turn off
the charger and disconnect it (not the
other way around – that bubbling is
hydrogen gas and you really don’t want
to have any sparks around that!).
Construction
When you open the SCA case, you’ll
find there are seven plastic compartments inside. You don’t need them for
this project (in fact, they won’t fit!) but
they make dandy little parts holders
for your workbench!
Layout within the case is not critical
but the main thing to remember is that
this is a mains device – care must be
taken with the mains wiring and the
output wiring must be kept completely
separated from the mains, with no possibility of connection should a wire
work its way loose.
One advantage of the transformers
we used is that they have nice, big
holes for cable connection – even the
25A auto cable fits easily.
We marked all hole positions before
drilling any. That way you can easily
move something if necessary!
Start by placing the transformers in
the case. If you’re using three, as we
did, it makes sense to locate one right
in the middle (ie, on the centreline)
and the others lined up, about 10mm
in from the edge of the case.
When you’re happy with their positions, mark their screw hole positions
with a fine felt pen.
The two lengths of terminal strip
(one 3-way, one 2-way) also sit on the
centreline. The 3-way length, the one
that connects mains power, has two
screws holding it in while the 2-way
obviously can have only one screw.
At the “mains” end, you’ll need
to mark a hole position for the earth
screw. We positioned the mains switch
and neon on the end of the case, equal
distance from top and bottom. The
bezel (7mm hole) is 25mm in from
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Rugged Battery Charger
3 (or 1 or 2 – see text) 230V to “12V” <at> ~4A downlight transformers, same brand
& type (not electronic type)
1 suitable steel or aluminium case, approx. 330 x 225 x 68mm (eg, “SCA” brand
multistorage 7-compartment carry case from Supercheap Auto, $19.95)
1 IEC male chassis connector with integral fuse holder and 5A fuse
1 SPST mains switch
1 Neon bezel (230V)
1 BR354 (or similar) 35A/400V bridge rectifier
1 90°C thermal switch, normally closed
2 large red & black terminals (binding posts)
1 12-way large terminal block (eg Jaycar HM3198)
1 earth lug crimp terminal
1m 25A Auto cable – red and black
1m twin-core mains cable
1 set economy jumper leads
heatshrink to cover mains socket and switch, all exposed terminals
5 M3 x 10mm screws with nuts & washers
3 M3 x 20mm screws with nuts & washers
8 M4 x 10mm screws with nuts & washers
1 M3 x 30mm screw with nut & washer
4 rubber feet, self-adhesive
1 aluminium offcut for heatsink, roughly 100 x 60mm
1 blank PCB or plastic offcut for mains terminal block insulator, roughly 50 x 50mm
Small cable ties
the front and the mains switch (12mm
hole) another 20mm further in.
The only other hole in this end of
the case is the cutout on the rear for
the fused IEC socket. Mark its position and cutout carefully – there’s not
a great deal of “meat” on the edges of
the socket. The cutout can be made by
either drilling a series of small holes
and finishing off with a file, or using a nibbler. Note that there are two
chamfered corners on the bottom of
the cutout.
At the opposite (output) end in the
bottom of the case there are holes
required for the 2-way terminal strip
mentioned above and the bridge rectifier and thermal cutout. We mounted
the two latter components on a small
piece of thick aluminium to act as a
heatsink, with screws going through
both the case and heatsink. We worked
out the positions of both components
on the heatsink then used that as a template to drill the holes through the case.
The pair of output binding posts
needs careful drilling to ensure it fits
and sits correctly – it has two 10mm
holes 19mm apart. Again, this socket
was mounted at the midline of the side
of the case, the first hole 25mm from the
front edge and the second (obviously!)
19mm further in.
We used M4 screws for the transformers, earthing point and bridge
rectifier; M3 for the rest. You will need
to remove paint around the earthing
point so that the screw is guaranteed
to contact bare metal. This screw
needs to have, from the case up, a star
washer, nut, crimped earth wire lug,
shakeproof washer and finally another
nut to ensure the earth wire is held
securely in place.
Because there are screwheads emerging from the bottom of the case, it
makes sense to place some rubber feet
on the underside – because the chances
are someone will “rest” it on a car bonnet. Self-adhesive feet are easiest – you
don’t need to drill any holes.
Connecting it up
Once all the holes are drilled/cut,
it’s quite a simple matter to connect
it all together using our photos and
diagrams as a guide.
Ideally, we would have used spade
(quick-connect) connectors to attach
to the various terminals but there are
two problems here – the different sizes
of lugs (I think there are five!) and
second, the thickness of the wire on
the secondary side makes getting the
connectors on and crimped a bit of a
chore. OK, there was a third problem
– I forgot to buy any!
So I elected to solder all connections.
Just make sure before you solder the
wires make a good mechanical conApril 2013 79
nection (ie, they won’t pop off even
without solder).
Pre-tinning any connectors also
makes sense because it’s sometimes
difficult to solder thick wire – it really
sucks the heat away from the iron. With
pre-tinning you have a much better
chance for a really good solder joint.
The connections between the transformers and bridge rate special mention. We already said that we obtained
some thick (ie, high current) wire for
these but we haven’t mentioned they
should all be cut to exactly the same
length. This is to ensure, as far as possible, that the load is shared between the
transformers – even a few milliohms of
difference could matter.
We used red and black wire simply
because we had some and that made the
phasing of the transformers easy – it’s
essential that the three (or even two)
transformer outputs are connected in
phase, otherwise they will see a short
circuit in each other.
Ideally, you should check that the
outputs are in phase by comparing the
waveforms on a ’scope. But if you don’t
have one, don’t worry too much – again,
with three identical transformers you’d
expect the terminals to be connected
the same way.
Now you’ll find out why we used an
ultra-large terminal strip – you need to
connect the three wires together and
anything smaller simply won’t have
room to fit them in. As it is, they’re a
tight fit – but they do. Fit, that is!
We’ve only run one length of wire
from the terminal strip to each of the
bridge terminals – we would have liked
to use a larger cable but didn’t have any.
Again, wrap the bare wire around
the bridge terminals before soldering – that’s after you take note which
terminals are which. One of the AC
(input) terminals is always identified,
as is the + terminal. The diagonally
opposite terminals are the other AC
input and the – terminal, respectively.
A thick black wire connects directly
from the – bridge terminal to the black
output terminal, while a thick red wire
connects from the bridge + terminal to
the thermal cutout, with the same from
the thermal cutout to the red output
terminal.
We covered all exposed terminals
(ie, on the IEC socket and the switch)
with heatshrink tubing and shrunk it to
fit when finished. The same treatment
was given to all soldered connections
on the output side – the bridge recti80 Silicon Chip
All closed up and ready to go. You’ve even got a handy carry handle to
handily carry your charger to where it’s needed!
fier, the thermal cutout and the output
terminals.
And finally, we used a few small
cable ties to bundle the wires together.
Is it finished?
Once you’ve checked all your wiring – and especially checked that no
strands of wire poke out from your terminal strips – you can test that it works.
Don’t connect any output leads yet
but connect a, say, 1kΩ resistor (any
wattage) across the output terminals
to give the rectifier a small load (that’s
all it needs at the moment).
Plug in power and turn it on. The
neon should glow, telling you that so
far all is well.
Measure the AC voltage at the terminal strip where the three transformer
leads join. It should read just on or
over 12VAC. Measure the DC voltage
at the output terminals and it should
be something similar – perhaps 11.5V
(again, if you’re wondering why, read
the explanation earlier on).
Turn it off, remove the resistor and
connect your output leads. While
monitoring a 12V car battery voltage,
connect the clips to the battery and
turn it on again.
Unless your battery is fully charged,
you should find the voltage rises a little
and keeps rising. You should also find
that the voltage is somewhat higher
than your previous check without
the output leads because the battery
acts like a giant capacitor or reservoir,
smoothing out the peaks of the waveform and thus increasing the average
voltage.
Leave the charger on for, say, half an
hour or so and check the temperature
of the transformers. They will probably
be quite warm but not excessively hot
(they get pretty hot to the touch when
operating in your ceiling!). Likewise
the bridge rectifier. If that gets too hot,
the thermal cutout will trip and cut
power to the output.
Closing ’er up
If you’re happy that everything works
as it should, close the case up and snap
the locks closed.
If you look closely at the bottom
of the locks, you’ll note that there is
provision for inserting a 3mm screw
(with nut), about 30mm long, through
the whole thing, which stops the locks
being opened. We’d be inclined to do
this – despite covering all the bitey
bits with heatshrink, you don’t want
anyone’s fingers (especially little ones!)
inside the case.
What’s the charging current?
Next month, we’ll show you how
to add both a digital ammeter and a
digital voltmeter so you know exactly
what’s going on.
Having set out to produce a lowcost, surplus parts battery charger this
could be regarded as “gilding the lily”
somewhat!
They do add to the cost of the project
but also add significantly to the value
and we think both are worthwhile additions (of course, you could choose
to add only one meter instead of two
– and/or leave it as is!).
An alternative would be to use a
couple of dirt-cheap digital multimeters. Jaycar’s QM-1502 DMMs are just
$4.95 each – even cheaper than panel
meters!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Test equipment review:
By NICHOLAS VINEN
Siglent SDG1050 50MHz
2-channel Function Generator
This low-cost arbitrary signal generator is compact and easy to use. It has
outputs for two independently configurable waveforms, including sine,
square, triangle, pulse, noise or just about anything you can come up with, at
frequencies up to 50MHz. It can also be used as a frequency counter.
T
HE SIGLENT SDG1050 is a lowcost 50MHz arbitrary function
generator. It is a compact instrument
(229 x 105 x 281mm) which has all the
usual features that you would expect
in this type of device.
Its manufacturer, Siglent, is the
largest oscilloscope manufacturer in
the world. Haven’t heard of them?
That’s OK; neither had we. Their name
isn’t well known because they are
an original equipment manufacturer
(OEM) and most of their scopes are
sold under other brands. Siglent and a
couple of other Chinese manufacturers
make most of the entry-level scopes for
name brands.
siliconchip.com.au
So they obviously know how to
make test gear and that is confirmed
as soon as you open up the box; the
build quality of the SDG1050 is top
notch and it feels solid and well-made.
There are some nice design touches;
for example, the bail doubles as a carrying handle and the stand has indentations for your fingers which give a
reliable grip for carrying the instrument. And there are rubber “feet” on
all the corners as well as plastic feet
on the back, so you can stand the instrument in just about any orientation
without damaging it or the surface
it’s on.
They’ve also included a great bonus
feature; if you aren’t using the trigger
input, you can also use the unit as a
frequency counter which can operate
in the range of 0.1Hz-200MHz. This is
accessed through the on-screen “utility” menu and you get a few options
such as whether to measure frequency,
period, pulse width or duty cycle,
what the reference level is for counting
pulses, whether it is AC-coupled and
also optionally enable a low-pass filter.
Signal generators
In addition to arbitrary waveform
shapes that you can define on one or
two channels, it has various built-in
waveform shapes such as sine, trianApril 2013 81
Fig.1: the output of the SDG1050’s two outputs showing
how they can be used independently. Channel 1 (yellow,
at top) is producing a 100kHz sinewave which is being
frequency modulated with another sinewave with a
longer period. At the same time, channel 2 is performing
a sweep.
gle, sawtooth, square and white noise.
It can generate signals with amplitudes
from 4mV peak-to-peak up to 20V
peak-to-peak into a high impedance
load or half that into 50Ω. Channel
2 is limited to 6V peak-to-peak or 3V
for 50Ω.
The signals can be swept, output in
bursts or modulated using AM/FM/
PM/ASK/FSK/PWM. The modulation
source can be an external analog signal
or it can be an internally generated
waveform of just about any type the
unit supports. The sampling rate of
the unit we are reviewing is 125MS/s
and the voltage resolution is 14 bits.
Maximum arbitrary waveform length
is 16,000 samples or 256k samples if
you disable one channel.
As well as defining your own waveform, there are 48 common types built
in such as cardiac, exponential rise or
fall, Gaussian, various FFT window
shapes, x2, x3 and so on.
Maximum signal frequency is as
follows: 50MHz for sine, 25MHz for
square, 5MHz for arbitrary/pulse and
300kHz for triangle/sawtooth/ramp.
To use the trigger output, signal fre-
Fig.2 this shows two of the built-in arbitrary waveforms
that you can select. The yellow trace at top is generating
an x3 function at 1kHz while the other channel in blue
is producing the “earthquake” function at the same
frequency. The sync output has been enabled and the
pulses from this are shown in green.
quency must be no more than 2MHz.
Because the output is DC-coupled,
very low frequency signals are possible, down to 1µHz in most modes. That
also means an adjustable DC offset can
be applied to the output.
The two outputs are totally independent and can be set up in any way that
you like. It’s possible, however, to copy
the settings from one output to another
if you want to set them up similarly.
As you would expect of such a device
these days, it has USB support. That
includes both a host port to which a
flash drive can be connected to save
and load settings and waveforms and
a device port (on the rear panel) which
can be used to connect the unit to a
computer for control.
For direct control, the device has
a 9cm (3.5-inch) colour LCD, five
“soft buttons” next to the display,
a numeric keypad, rotary encoder
knob/pushbutton, arrow keys and a
number of mode pushbuttons, many
of which are illuminated when that
mode is selected.
The two output BNC sockets are
on the front, adjacent to pushbuttons
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which can be used to quickly enable
or disable that output. Besides the
USB host port, all the other sockets
are on the back and that includes four
BNC sockets: the trigger output, trigger
input, 10MHz reference clock input/
output and external modulation input.
There is also an earth point, the IEC
mains power socket and the aforementioned USB device port.
Interface
So those are the specs but is it easy
to use? Well, we found the interface a
bit confusing when we first had a go
at it (not bothering to read the user
manual as usual) but very quickly
figured it out. Most functions are controlled through a combination of the
soft buttons (to select items from the
on-screen menu), the mode buttons
and the numeric keypad.
Say you want to generate a 1MHz
sinewave with 50kHz frequency modulation by a triangle wave of 1kHz and
generate a sync output. The procedure
is as follows:
(1) Press the CH1/2 button to select
the desired output channel;
(2) Press the sine button;
(3) Press the “1” button on the keypad,
then the soft button labelled “MHz”;
(4) Press the “Mod” (modulation)
button;
(5) Press the “Shape” soft button until
it reads “Triangle”;
(6) Press the “Type” soft button until
it reads “FM”;
(7) Press the “1” button on the keypad,
siliconchip.com.au
then the soft button labelled “kHz”;
(8) Press the “FM Dev” soft button,
then type “50” and press the soft button labelled “kHz”;
(9) Press the “Utility” button, then the
“Output Setup” soft button;
(10) Press the “Sync” soft button,
then “State” until it shows “On”, then
“Done”.
That’s all quite easy and most jobs are
similarly straightforward once you’ve
played with it for a few minutes. The
interface therefore gets a thumbs up.
What we did find a bit odd though is
that sometimes a menu pops up which
prompts you to select from a list of options and you can then use the rotary
knob to select one. But then if you
press the knob in, nothing happens.
You have to use a soft button labelled
“Select” to make the selection when
the knob pushbutton would have been
more convenient. But that’s a minor
criticism.
The rear panel carries four BNC sockets for the trigger output, trigger/
frequency counter input, 10MHz reference clock input/output and external
modulation input. There’s also a USB device port (eg, to connect a PC to
control the device), an earth point and an IEC mains socket.
The Siglent SDG1050 comes
with a printed user manual
and a CD for installing the
Easy-Wave waveform editing
software on a PC. Also supplied
are a USB cable and a power
cord.
PC software
Windows software called “EasyWave” is supplied to edit arbitrary
waveforms which can then be loaded
onto the signal generator. These can
be hand-drawn point-by-point or can
be based on mathematical functions,
including trigonometric, exponential
and logarithmic functions. They can be
transferred directly using the supplied
USB cable or via a flash drive.
Performance
So how does it stack up? In fact, it
performs similarly to other arbitrary
waveform generators with this type
of frequency range and capability.
Sinewave THD+N at 1kHz is around
0.05% (20kHz bandwidth) and doesn’t
vary a great deal with level although it
does climb at very low output levels,
to around 0.5% at 4mV peak-to-peak
– quite impressive given how little
signal there is at this output amplitude.
The signal-to-noise ratio is 96dB at
maximum output level (20V peak-topeak) and drops at lower output levels,
as you would expect. That’s if you
switch between outputting a signal
and DC. There’s an extra 10dB of SNR
if you switch the output off entirely.
As for square-wave performance,
there is a little visible overshoot at
1MHz but the output is still basically
square. By 10MHz there is some apparent rounding and at 25MHz it is
somewhat trapezoidal. That’s pretty
much to be expected for an instrument
siliconchip.com.au
with an analog bandwidth of 50MHz.
Voltage accuracy is good if you set
the load impedance correctly; with the
output set to 4V in high-impedance
mode, our scope gave us a reading of
4V while a true RMS multimeter gave
3.99V; pretty much spot on.
Frequency accuracy is specified as
±100ppm, ie, ±0.01% within the first
year when operating with an ambient
temperature of between 18-28°C. That
means it makes quite a reasonable frequency reference too. If that isn’t good
enough, you can simply feed in a more
accurate 10MHz reference clock from
another piece of equipment.
Conclusion
The Siglent SDG1050 does what it
says; it’s a capable dual-channel arbitrary function generator with decent
performance and good build quality.
It costs $595 + GST and is available
from Trio Smartcal.
For further information, visit www.
triosmartcal.com.au or phone them
at 1300 853 407. You can also e-mail
sales<at>triosmartcal.com.au for more
information or to make a purchase.
Trio have some other options too,
such as the 25MHz SDG1025 which
has quite similar features to the 1050
(but 20MHz analog bandwidth) for
$439 + GST. The more capable 80MHz
SDG5082 is $795 + GST. These are all
competitive offerings from Siglent and
we have no hesitation in recommendSC
ing them.
April 2013 83
Vintage Radio
By Ian Batty
The First “Trannie” – The Regency
TR-1 4-transistor radio
The world’s first commercial transistor radio, the Regency TR-1, was released in October 1954 (Photo: Steven Reyer).
In this world of smart phones, tablets and MP3 players, no-one
carries a “tranny” any longer. But before we forget them completely,
let’s look back at the first of these pocket-size marvels, the Regency
TR-1 4-transistor radio.
T
HE YEAR is 1953. Herbert Mataré,
frustrated by the French Government’s lack of support for his invention, the “Transistron”, has left F. V.
Westinghouse in Paris and moved to
Dusseldorf, establishing Intermetall.
The transistor had arrived but not as
many of us understand history. Matare
had discovered the “transistor effect”
independently of the famous trio of
Bardeen, Brattain and Shockley. Yet,
impressive as Matare’s ground-breaking radio was, it used point-contact
84 Silicon Chip
transistors, had no loudspeaker and
was only a prototype.
The world would have to wait two
more years for a commercial solidstate radio.
The first US transistor patents using semiconductors were issued to
John Bardeen and Walter Brattain at
Bell Laboratories in 1948. As a major
US telecommunications company,
Bell’s primary intention was to use
transistors as solid-state switches in
exchanges, so portable radios were not
a concern. The only other intended
uses were hearing aids, computers
and military applications. Bell did,
however, demonstrate “a transistorpowered radio” at their major press
announcement of the transistor’s invention on June 30, 1948.
Added to this, Bell’s efforts were
directed at point-contact technology,
for which they held the patent. By the
beginning of the 1950s, it was obvious
that point-contact technology was
too unreliable and costly for masssiliconchip.com.au
production. By this time, the original
Bell team of Bardeen, Brattain and
Shockley had broken up.
Shockley, realising the limitations
of point-contact designs and resentful
of his name being omitted from the
patent application, had subsequently
independently invented the junction
transistor. He went on to share the 1956
Nobel Prize for Physics.
Shockley left Bell and, with funding
from friend Arnold Beckman, started
Shockley Semiconductor Laboratories in 1955, recruiting the best and
brightest engineers and scientists
he could find. However, Shockley’s
management style and inability to
understand commercial imperatives
resulted in failure to ship even a single
commercial product and led to the
mass exodus of the “Fairchild Eight”.
Back in 1952, prior to the breakup of
the Bardeen-Brattain-Shockley team,
Bell Labs’ Jack Morton had realised
that Bell alone didn’t have the resources to bring transistors into widespread commercial use. As a result,
he arranged three famous seminars
in that year, the first being for the US
and NATO militaries while the second
seminar was attended by industry
giants and small innovators alike.
Among the latter at this April 1952
seminar were Texas Instruments (TI)
and Tokyo Tsushin Kogyo (“Totsuko”),
later to become technology giant Sony.
Pocket transistor radio
TI’s Mark Shepherd was convinced
that a pocket transistor radio was possible. TI had begun making transistors
for hearing aids and for the military but
these were not major earners. In 1954,
TI manager Pat Haggerty signed an
agreement with the Regency Division
of Industrial Development Engineering
Associates, an Indiana company involved in making TV antenna boosters.
The aim was that the two companies
would work together to manufacture
and market the world’s first commercial transistor radio. That’s if Ibuka and
Morita didn’t beat them to it!
Totsuko’s Masaru Ibuka and Akio
Morita clearly saw the potential of the
transistor. Working among the ruins
of postwar Tokyo, they had started
out by making a humble rice cooker
and a shortwave converter. They
had then successfully progressed to
designing, manufacturing and selling
high-quality tape recorders for use in
radio stations and courtrooms.
siliconchip.com.au
ANTRIM
TRANSFORMERS
manufactured in
Australia by
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
harbuch<at>optusnet.com.au
This tiny battery-operated transistor
radio was demonstrated at the
Dusseldorf Radio Fair in 1953 but
never made it into production.
Toroidal – Conventional Transformers
Power – Audio – Valve – ‘Specials’
Medical – Isolated – Stepup/down
Encased Power Supplies
Toroidal General
Construction
At the time, TI’s own laboratories, as
basic as they were, would have seemed
palatial to Ibuka and Morita. Nonetheless, we now know that Regency’s release of the TR-1 in October 1954 beat
Sony to market by just a few months.
Morita visited the US in March 1955,
offering their TR-55 to the market.
www.harbuch.com.au
The Regency TR-1: a first look
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
The first junction transistors proved
far more reliable and stable than the
earlier point-contact types. They were
also easier to manufacture and far less
noisy.
Nevertheless, the “grown-junction”
design relied on exacting manufacturing techniques and the devices
struggled to operate at radio frequencies much above 1MHz. Internal
collector-base capacitance reduced the
performance and created feedback that
could easily turn otherwise acceptable
amplifiers into useless oscillators.
The solution was to run the transistors at their maximum permissible
voltages, thereby reducing capacitance. As a result, the TR-1 used a
22.5V “hearing aid” battery to ensure
good performance.
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of the
TR-1. It’s a simple 4-transistor superhet design with conventional RF and
IF stages, ie, a single-transistor “autodyne” converter, two stages of IF (intermediate frequency) amplification,
a diode detector and AGC (automatic
gain control).
The IF, however, is only 262kHz, a
value also used in some US car radios.
This compromise was forced by the
limited high-frequency performance
of TI’s grown-junction transistors.
The audio section is less familiar
and uses a single transistor operat-
OUTER
INSULATION
OUTER
WINDING
WINDING
INSULATION
INNER
WINDING
CORE
CORE
INSULATION
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April 2013 85
Fig.1: the circuit is a simple superhet design with a single-transistor “autodyne”
converter (X1), two stages of IF (intermediate frequency) amplification (X2 & X3),
a diode detector (D1), AGC and a single-transistor Class-A audio output stage (X4).
Diagram: www.radiomuseum.org/r/regency_pocket_radio_tr_1_tr1.html
ing in Class-A, the simplest but most
power-hungry type of operation.
An interesting and somewhat unexpected aspect of the design is that it
used NPN germanium transistors. Most
of the germanium transistors manufactured at that time were PNP types.
The use of only four transistors
was an economic decision, since they
wanted to sell the radio for just $49.95.
The TR-1 prototype used eight transistors, ie, in the mixer, oscillator, two IFs,
detector, audio driver and a push-pull
audio output stage. However, with
each transistor costing around $2.50,
this would not have permitted the
magical $49.95 price point.
As a result, the engineers took a “man
overboard” approach. The mixer/oscillator combination became a single-transistor converter (US Patent 2880312)
the transistor detector became a diode,
and the 3-transistor audio section (with
Class-B push-pull output) became a
single-transistor Class-A stage.
Raytheon’s competing 8TP, released
some months later in March 1955, had
eight transistors and sold for $79.95.
That was over half as much again as
the cost of the TR-1 and the equivalent
of around $683 today. By contrast, the
TR-1 cost about $426 in today’s dollars.
It’s rather ironic that Raytheon’s 8TP
is similar to the original TR-1 design.
The author’s TR-1
I bought my TR-1 (serial number
47,939) online for $200. The “506”
date-stamp on the tuning gang shows
that it was made in the sixth week of
86 Silicon Chip
1955. Cosmetically, it was in very good
condition, with acceptable wear on the
case and no battery corrosion.
Unfortunately, when I tested it,
it was dead. A few quick checks revealed oxidation on the on/off switch
contacts and on the earphone socket.
Once these were cleaned up, the set
then responded weakly to my signal
generator.
I then injected audio into the top
of the volume control but it needed
hundreds of millivolts to give even a
weak output.
One of the main causes of faults in
valve sets are defective paper and electrolytic capacitors. Transistor sets also
suffer from faulty capacitors, mainly
electrolytics that have “dried out” and
gone almost open-circuit.
This set was no exception. Replacing the coupling capacitor (C19) in
series with the volume control gave
some improvement, while replacing
the emitter bypass capacitor on transistor X4 gave a big improvement. It
now took just 20mV in to give the full
6mW output at the onset of clipping.
With the audio amplifier stage sort
ed, I then found that the set burst into
oscillation as a station was fully tuned
in. At first, I suspected instability in
the IF stages but the oscillation only
happened with strong signals. Capacitor C9 (base circuit of transistor X2)
was the culprit. It was open-circuit and
was failing to bypass the detected audio signal on the AGC line to ground.
Allowing this detected audio back
into the IF stages was the cause of the
oscillation. The AGC line should have
only been returning smoothed DC for
gain control.
In the end, I “replaced” all the
electrolytics by wiring new capacitors
in parallel with the existing units.
Fortunately, I was able to insert the
new capacitors between the circuit
board and the metal chassis, so the
set still looks original. Of course, this
approach would be impractical with
any capacitors that had shorted rather
than gone open circuit.
The RF “front end” turned out to
be operational, although the set’s
performance was still a bit below par.
Subsequent testing showed the IF
alignment to be unsatisfactory.
Fortunately, the oscillator coil and
IF transformer cores were sealed with
soft wax, rather than the dreaded
plaster-like paint seen on so many
sets. As a result, it was easy to make
the necessary adjustments. As noted
above, the IF should be 262kHz but on
this set it was just a bit high, so it was
adjusted down.
Sets with ferrite rod antennas commonly have no “low-end” aerial circuit
tuning. With long ferrite rods, it’s
possible to slide the aerial coil along
the rod to peak the performance at a
specified frequency at the low end
of the dial but the TR-1’s coil was
wax-sealed. Because of this, it’s very
tempting to simply adjust it at the
specified 535kHz (as the Regency service manual advises) but this method
does not always give the best results.
In the end, as a compromise, I simsiliconchip.com.au
These two photos show the author’s fully-restored Regency TR1 transistor radio. This unit has a black case but grey,
red and ivory were also initially available, with other colours added later.
ply tweaked the oscillator slug up
and down, readjusting the generator
each time, until I found a setting that
gave maximum sensitivity – at almost
exactly 540kHz.
Easy access
The set is designed with the solder
side of the circuit board facing the
metal chassis. As a result, most of the
resistor ends are easily accessed and
signal injection into various points on
the circuit is also fairly easy.
For IF alignment, it’s easy to connect
TP3 to ground to kill the local oscillator (LO). That done, I found that signal
injection into the first IF at TP5 worked
fine but injecting into the second IF
at TP7 occasionally provoked loud
oscillation.
Signal injection to the audio stage
can be either direct into the wiper of
the volume pot or you can disconnect
the lead from the detector and inject
the signal directly into the top of the
pot.
Table 1 shows the signal input levsiliconchip.com.au
els at test points TP1, TP5 & TP8 for
3mW output with the volume control
at maximum (about 0.23V across the
speaker). The RF and IF signals were
30% modulated at 1 kHz, while the
audio signal into TP8 was a 400Hz
sinewave.
Battery
Transistor feedback capacitance (ie,
collector-base capacitance) reduces
with increased collector-base voltage.
Conversely, this capacitance increases
as the battery voltage falls.
As a result, one common cause of
oscillation in this set is low battery
voltage, ie, as the battery runs down.
My set “takes off” below about 16V.
The original battery was a 22.5V
No.215 hearing-aid battery which is
still available online. Alternatively, if
you have an old battery, you can remove the innards and fit two 12V A23
types (as commonly used in doorbell
transmitters) inside the old casing.
If, like me, you’d rather not apply
the full 24V to the set, it’s fairly easy
Table 1: Signal Levels For 3mW Output
TP1 (540kHz)
30μV
TP5
13mV
TP8
25mV
to pry open one end of the wraparound metal case, remove one cell
and re-crimp the end (Editor’s note:
this shouldn’t be necessary as a 22.5V
battery would have delivered around
24V when new). It’s then just a matter of connecting the two batteries in
series and stuffing them into the old
battery’s casing.
By the way, you can also do this for
the 22.5V batteries used in AVO (and
other) analog multimeters (the full 24V
is just fine). I’ve also done this with replacements for the miniature 415-type
45V battery used in super-compact
valve sets (four A23 12V batteries in
series gives 48V).
How did they do it?
Although small, the TR-1 is not as
compact as it might have been. Emerson Radio Corporation was already
April 2013 87
This close-up view shows how two capacitors (C19 & C21) were added to the
underside of the circuit board. The old capacitors were left in place on top of
the circuit board to maintain the original appearance.
producing compact valve sets using
sub-miniature valves, although these
sets were somewhat larger than the
TR-1. The TR-1 measures 35 x 125 x
76mm, whereas the 4-valve Emerson
747 measured 37 x 155 x 90mm.
Unlike Sony’s preference for inhouse components, Regency took the
expedient approach of sourcing existing components. The TR-1 prototype
even used a “salvaged” tuning-gang
from an Emerson 747.
The only purpose-designed components were the ferrite rod, the oscillator coil and the three IF transformers.
These new designs were necessary to
match transistor circuit impedances,
which are low in comparison to valves.
In addition, IF transformer design was
simplified and made more compact by
using single tuned circuits, whereas
most valve sets use two tuned circuits
for each IF transformer.
The resistors and capacitors used in
the set were types commonly available
at the time.
The high collector-base capacitance
of the transistors used isn’t a problem
in the converter and audio stages.
However, the IF stages, just like the
TRF valve sets of the 1920s, cannot
operate successfully with significant
internal capacitive feedback.
Just as TRF sets were rescued by
the Hazeltine “Neutrodyne” patent,
using carefully-adjusted feedback to
neutralise anode-grid capacitance,
Regency used controlled feedback
to “unilateralise” their IF amplifiers.
The relevant components are C10/R6
and C14/R9, with selected capacitors
individually supplied with their companion transistors for assembly.
88 Silicon Chip
These RC networks are required
since the feedback from the transistors
isn’t exactly 180° out of phase. This
means that the neutralising network’s
feedback phase also needs to differ
from the simple 180° specified in the
Neutrodyne patents.
Minimising the current drain
In operation, the Regency TR-1
receiver draws around 4mA, giving
about 20 hours of operation from a
22.5V hearing-aid battery.
To minimise current drain (and
extend battery life), the bias divider
usually required for the second IF
stage was discarded. Instead, this stage
derives its bias directly from the emitter of the audio output transistor (US
Patent 2,892,931). This saves about
600µA of battery drain, a reduction
of around 13%.
How good is it?
The TR-1’s performance is mediocre, even by the standards of the
early 1950s. In fact, the April and July
1955 issues of “Consumer Reports”
separately put the TR-1 and Raytheon’s
8-transistor 8TP to the test and concluded that Raytheon had every reason
to call its 8TP the first serious transistor radio. The April 1955 review of the
Regency TR-1 found the $49.95 TR-1
to be a toy-like novelty which didn’t
come at a toy-like price, and stated that
“the consumer who has been waiting
for transistor radios to appear would
do well to await further developments
before buying”.
My own tests on the TR-1 were all
done at 3mW output, at which point
the second harmonic distortion was
-20dB and the third harmonic distortion was about -13dB. The frequency
response (at the speaker terminals) was
-3dB at 270Hz and 2.3kHz, referenced
to 1kHz.
The audio output is rather limited
but the RF sensitivity is quite respectable at about 500µV/m at the bottom
end and around 700µV/m at 1600kHz.
Most sets, however, give better sensitivity at the top end and the difference
can easily be a 3:1 improvement. In
this case, the TR-1’s lack of improvement at the top end indicates that the
converter is working at the upper end
of its frequency range.
Indeed, one milestone in the TR-1’s
development was when the converter
proved capable of oscillating reliably
up to about 1.9MHz, so that the receiver could reach the top of its intended
tuning range.
The above figures may sound poor
but it’s not surprising considering that
the design uses just four transistors.
In fact, a 5-transistor Mullard design
using the alloy-diffused OC169/170
transistors from the 1960s has only
about 10 times better overall sensitivity than the TR-1, ie, about 50µV/m for
3mW output at 540kHz.
Ultimately, the signal-to-noise performance of any set is determined by
the “front end”, especially the mixer.
That aside, the TR-1’s performance is
almost as good as most of my 6-transistor pocket radios.
An iconic design
The TR-1 is now lauded as an iconic
design. Its release, along with the early
transistor sets from other companies,
firmly established solid-state technology as the future of electronics.
These days, you can buy a smart
phone for less than the equivalent
1950s price of a TR-1. By contrast
with the TR-1’s four transistors, a
smart phone has billions of transistors
embedded in its internal microchips
and, along with its phone functions,
includes a camera, an audio player,
a GPS and email and internet browsing capabilities – all accessible with
the swipe of a finger across a touchsensitive screen.
However, it probably won’t let you
listen to radio stations on the AM band
and that’s something the TR-1 can do!
For further information on the Regency TR-1 transistor radio, point your
browser to http://www.mequonsteve.
SC
com/regency/
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RADIO, TV AND HOBBIES April 1939 to March 1965
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"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
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tory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition
focuses entirely on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and
12F675. 226 pages in paperback.
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
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By Carter & Mancini – 3RD EDITION $100.00*
Substantially updates coverage for low-speed and high-speed applications,
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PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
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See
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March
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Feb
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ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes - Third edition 2006 $51.00*
Intended for non-specialist users of electric motors and drives,
filling the gap between academic texts and general "handbooks".
Explores all of the widely-used modern types of motor and drive
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USING UBUNTU LINUX
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Ubuntu Linux is a free and easy-to-use operating system, a viable alternative to Windows and Mac OS. Introduces Ubuntu, tells how to set it up,
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RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
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Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
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PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
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An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
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286 pages in soft cover.
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PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
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Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
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and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097 or
send an email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Confusion about
calcium batteries
I have just bought a new battery
for my car and it is a lead/calcium no
maintenance sealed battery. (Super
charge MF75D23L). A friend of mine
advised that calcium batteries require
a higher charge rate to enable the
battery to reach full capacity. My car
is a 2005 Nissan Maxima and I have
measured the charging voltage after a
long drive at 14.2V DC which to me
is good.
On some websites, they talk about
higher charge voltages up to as high as
15.1V DC for lead/calcium batteries.
Other sites say that the battery manufacturers advise that lower charge
voltages like 14.2V DC are OK. Battery
manufacturers do not advise charge
voltages, for example AC Delco and
Supercharge http://www.acdelco.com.
au/PDFs/ACDelco_BatteryChargingGuidelines.pdf
Now I am aware that I cannot adjust
the charging voltage in my car but after
looking at various websites I have to
say I am confused about the charging
voltages required. I do not remember
an article written on this and wonder
if you can give some advice. (F. W.,
via email).
• Basically, calcium batteries are still
lead-acid types. These batteries can
accept a higher charge rate than standard lead-acid batteries but this higher
rate is not a requirement to obtain full
charge. The charge voltage is similar to
standard lead-acid batteries although
the calcium batteries can also accept
a higher charge voltage.
In other words, the actual charge
voltage is not as critical for calcium
battery longevity as it is for a standard
lead-acid battery.
Battery charging in a vehicle is never
ideal anyway and the charge voltage is
rarely correctly compensated for temperature. This means that a calcium
battery with its wider charge voltage
acceptance is better suited to use in
vehicles.
concerned about possibly having that
resistor energised at mains potential
for longer than is necessary.
If not, is it possible to modify the
circuit or software to provide that facility? Also, given that any test result
of more than 300ms is a fail, can the
LCD be made to indicate that? (S. G.,
via email).
• There is an inbuilt time-out feature
that removes the input to the optocoupler, thereby disconnecting the
earth leakage resistor in the event that
the RCD fails to trip. This is covered
in code lines 75 to 86. The LCD will
display “– Fail” if the trip time is
>300ms or 15 cycles and “– Pass” if
less than those values. This is covered
in code lines 232 to 258.
Time out facility
on RCD Tester
For more years than I care to remember I’ve fiddled with digital electronics
but have now finally decided to have
a go at analog electronics; well audio
specifically. I have a few questions
regarding the SD Card Music/Speech
Recorder/Player from the August 2009
issue. I have no desire to carry 450-500
With respect to the RCD Tester featured in the Circuit Notebook pages of
the March 2013 issue, does the RCD
test time out and remove power from
the 7.5kΩ 10W load resistor? I am
Questions about
the SD card recorder
Using The Quick Brake Light Trigger On A Turbo Blow-Off Valve
I have a Quick Brake Light Trigger
that was designed by John Clarke
and first published in the March
2004 issue. After seeing this circuit
featured in an article appearing
in Autospeed (June 2004, Issue
286, http://autospeed.com/cms/
title_The-AllElectronic-BlowOffValve/A_2188/article.html) about
using it to trigger a turbo blow-off
valve, I have built the system they
featured to be used on a 2007 2.8L
turbo diesel Jeep Cherokee to provide turbo surge protection.
The system has been assembled,
tested and connected to the Jeep and
senses the throttle lift-off just fine.
Because this circuit is only being
90 Silicon Chip
used in my application for triggering
a solenoid valve to dump the surge
on lift-off, I only want it to trigger on
a significant lift-off that will create a
compressor pressure wave and not
just a back down.
So while it works very nicely, I
would like the differentiator to be
a little less sensitive. Putting it another way, I think that my issue may
be with the RC time constant. Is there
a way in which I can change the circuit to make it so only a more rapidly
changing signal is allowed through?
This is with VR1 fully turned clockwise to reduce sensitivity and no, the
trimpot is not installed backwards.
Any ideas? (G. D., via email).
•
For it to operate at a faster rate
of lift-off of throttle than available
with the VR1 adjustment, reduce the
value of the 100nF capacitor at pin
1 of IC1a. This capacitor is located
just above pin 1 of IC1 on the PCB.
You should be able to change the
sensitivity of the circuit to suit your
purpose by using a 10nF capacitor
instead. That will increase the adjustment range of VR1 so that when
set fully clockwise, the required
rate of change to trigger the switch
is 10 times that of the original configuration.
The 10nF MKT polyester capacitor may have the code 103 or 10n
written on its body rather than 10nF.
siliconchip.com.au
music CDs, 60kg of weight and space,
in a caravan when I can use SD cards.
I cannot find any mention at all in
the article of the reason and use for the
three LEDs. Can you explain them? I
would like to couple the SD Card Recorder/Player to the 12V 20W Stereo
Amplifier module in the May 2010
issue, for use in a caravan with a normal 12V DC supply. Are the output of
the SD card machine and input of the
stereo amplifier compatible? Can the
SD card volume control be modified
to provide a balance control and use
only the stereo unit’s volume control?
While I realise the SD card machine
can drive headphones directly, no
distortion figures were published so in
my quest for higher fidelity sound, I am
wondering if either of the headphone
amplifiers from the April & September
2011 issues would be compatible with
the SD card unit?
I would really appreciate some help
and advice in these areas. (J. C., via
email).
• LED3 (yellow) is the infrared command acknowledge LED and flashes
in response to the reception of infrared commands. LED2 (green) lights
when playing a file and also during
initialisation. LED1 (red) lights during
recording. LEDs1 & 2 flash if there is
no memory card inserted.
You can connect the output of the SD
Card Music/Speech Recorder/Player
to the 12V 20W Stereo Amplifier from
May 2010. You just need an appropriate cable (eg, 3.5mm stereo jack to
2 x RCA plugs).
You could turn VR2 into a balance
control by cutting the tracks connecting to the left and right front pins
on the pot (ie, those closest to the
edge of the PCB) and swapping them
over using short lengths of wire. This
wouldn’t make a particularly great
balance control as its action would be
mostly be around the 12 o’clock position and it may not be very linear in
operation but it should work.
The THD+N figure provided for the
SD Card Recorder/Player is 0.7% at
1kHz. This is quite poor and is mainly
due to the noisiness of the DAC outputs in the dsPIC33 chip and the fact
that the design does not use the differential outputs of that DAC to cancel
some of the distortion.
While an LM833 isn’t designed to
drive headphones directly, it will do
so reasonably well and the distortion
figure is unlikely to change when drivsiliconchip.com.au
Stereo Compressor For Panasonic TV Set
I purchased a Jaycar kit for the
Stereo Compressor in the January
2012 issue. I use it between the rear
panel audio output of our Panasonic
TV and the input of an FM transmitter I built. I then listen to the TV on
Sony radio headphones.
What I found was the analog tuner
audio output (used for Foxtel) was
significantly higher than the digital tuner output (used for the FTA
channels). The Stereo Compressor
has virtually fixed this problem.
Incidentally, I contacted Panasonic
about this problem, thinking there
would be a preset audio gain control,
but they couldn’t help.
I noticed on some channels with
the compressor, particularly Foxtel,
that there was an annoying click
with some speakers’ voices. It seems
as though the attack time is too slow,
allowing the output to momentarily
square up. I reduced the value of
RB on both channels from 1MΩ to
330kΩ and the problem is virtually
fixed. However it probably could
be reduced even further. I have the
Level control set fully clockwise.
Any comments? (G. B., via email).
• Resistor RB does not affect the
ing headphones because it’s already
so high.
Studio 350 doublemono system query
I have built two Studio 350 High
Power Amplifiers from individual
parts, using 2SA970 transistors for Q2
& Q3. There are two separate transformer power supplies, one for each
module, and I would like to know if
there would be any advantage or disadvantage to the performance of the
amplifiers in this mono set up if the
10Ω resistors were removed and replaced with wire links in each module.
In the May 2011 edition on page
99 (Ask SILICON CHIP), a question on
substitute transistors for the Studio
350 mentioned substituting 2SA970s
if 2SA1084s were not available or
failing that you could use BC556s although their noise figure is not quite
as low. Could this work successfully
the other way using the lower noise
2SA970 at Q1 for better performance
attack time. It affects the linearity
of input versus output level for the
compressor. Without RB, the compressor boosts signals at low levels
but by adding RB (1MΩ), the boost is
less at low levels as the input level
drops. This was done to reduce noise
at low signal levels. By changing
RB to 330kΩ, you have raised the
input threshold level from where
signal boost occurs. That reduces
the overall range over which the
compressor operates.
It may be better to return RB to
1MΩ and reduce the signal level
applied to the input by turning back
the level control from its maximum
position. That way the compressor
will not clip for some high level
signals.
Having said that, many modern
flat-panel TV sets do have automatic
gain controls and that applies to
models made by Panasonic. It is
worth going through the various
menus to see if your set has that
feature although we concede that
many modern sets actually do not
have analog audio outputs and you
would have use a DAC to decode
the TOSLINK digital audio output.
and lower distortion in place of the
BC556s or is it impracticable on this
board? (P. C., Whitebridge, NSW).
• The 10Ω resistor was used to provide better separation between channels when the modules are used in a
stereo set-up with a common power
supply. In your double-mono set-up,
you can eliminate the 10Ω resistors
without any problems. Just short
them out. You can also substitute the
transistors in the input stages – they
should all work, although the change
in performance may be small.
Clarification on
sacrificial anodes
About a year ago, we moved into our
new home and recently had to replace
our mains pressure storage hot-water
tank due to leakage, as mentioned in
your November 2012 article on sacrificial anodes. It was most interesting
but I have two questions relating to
comments made.
Having some understanding of sacApril 2013 91
How To Dub LP Records To CD
I have a large collection of LP
records and 45s. In years gone by, I
have spent countless hours recording selected tracks to cassette tape
for listening at home or in my car.
However, with the demise of cassette tapes, this is no longer viable.
What I would like to do is replace
my cassette deck with some sort of
gadget that would do exactly the
same thing, only record them to a
USB flash drive or SD card.
Basically, I want to cue a track,
press the record button and then
the stop button at the end of the
track. I would then transfer them to
rificial anodes, I am aware that to do
that job there must be a good electrical bonding between the metal you
are trying to save and the sacrificial
anode. In other words, the electrical
resistance between the two must be as
low as possible.
The sacrificial anode in the example
on page 15 bottom picture should still
work because the sacrificial anode is
connected to the steel rod which is
connected to the threaded top which
screws into the tank. Provided that the
electrical resistance between them is
low, it should do the job.
The other question is regarding the
Teflon tape. This would help seal the
joint but does this not affect the resistance connection between the threaded
sections? Would this not prevent the
anode from doing its job properly? Is
this not a concern and is it common
practice to do this?
With the importance of making a
sound connection between the two
parts, this sounds confusing. (N. T.,
via email).
• With regard to the badly worn
sacrificial anode shown on page 15,
it would still be chemically active
but the degree of protection would be
minimal and the steel nut of the anode
would be under severe attack, meaning
that the tank will soon start to leak.
With respect to the Teflon tape, it
seals the joint against water leakage
but the very act of tightening the joint
damages the tape so it is no longer
contiguous and then there is good
electrical connection between the
anode and the tank.
92 Silicon Chip
Windows Media Player for burning
to CD. I know there are dedicated
computer interfaces, software programs and USB turntables available
but I have a high-quality turntable
and my desktop is nowhere near my
sound system.
Do you know of anything along
these lines? (R. B., via email).
• Presumably, apart from the turn
table, you also have an amplifier
with a phono input. The output from
the phono preamplifier is the signal
that needs to be recorded either via
the preamplifier output or at the
amplifier output after attenuation
In any case, that aspect is easily
checked with a DMM switched to its
ohms range, after the installation is
complete.
Caravan battery
protection/management
I recently bought a second-hand
camper trailer which has its own 12V
auxiliary battery, the same size as a
car battery. The battery can be charged
either from 230VAC through a multistage 5A battery charger or from the
towing vehicle. This also allows the
vehicle to power the small 90-litre
fridge and charge the battery while
you are driving.
Prior to our first trip, the camper
had been on 230VAC charge for weeks.
The battery was charged up to 14V
but after only six hours of running
the fridge on 12V, the battery voltage
had dropped to 10V. This was a little
alarming. I thought we’d be able to go
for at least a day on a fully charged
battery. Should the voltage have been
allowed to get that low? It might be the
original battery and may be 10 years
old. But how would I test it to know
if it is any good?
The people selling batteries just said
that I needed a new battery and offered
to sell me one. But before investing a
few hundred dollars in a new battery,
I decided to investigate the battery
management circuitry. All I found
was the battery charger, with no other
protection other than a few fuses. I
think the Electrolux fridge may have
low voltage protection (10V) but I’m
to a suitable line level for a digital
recorder.
Digital recorders are available
from manufacturers such as Denon
(eg, DN F650R) and these are available from speciality music stores but
rather expensive. Also, there is the
Gemini IKEY digital recorder http://
www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?_nk
w=Mint+Gemini+Ikey+digital+re
corder and one from Jaycar: http://
www.jaycar.com.au/productView.
asp?ID=XC0386
We recommend recording using
the wav file format, sampled at the
best rate available from the recorder.
not sure. Although this seems to be a
typical caravan installation, I think it
can be improved.
If I have the chance to charge the
battery from a 230VAC supply, the
installed 5A charger will take all day
to get the charge level back up. What
about just getting a bigger charger?
If I have to charge from a generator I
want to do it as quickly as possible but
without damaging it. Are there rules
that should be followed, such as the
amps of the charger versus the amphour rating of the battery?
I investigated the cost of higher current chargers, low voltage disconnect
devices and auxiliary 4WD battery
isolators. It all added up to a lot of
hardware to install and I could easily
spend over $500 not including the battery. None of these devices included
an ammeter to tell me how much 12V
power was being used.
What about using a solar charge
controller? These seem to manage
battery charging in the same way that
a multi-stage battery charger does but
with a lot more amps per dollar and
more functionality. They monitor and
limit the current and prevent the battery from over discharging, which is
a key feature I want.
Solar charge controllers are easy
enough to get and seem to be going
down in price. Many have an LCD
panel showing the charge/discharge
status, voltage and output current
which will help in managing power
consumption. Some permit adjustment of individual voltage set points.
Some have compact remote displays
siliconchip.com.au
Chrysler CD Player Has Comms Link
I have a Chrysler Voyager with a cassette radio and
CD changer. The CD changer is defunct and beyond
repair so I thought I would add a small MP3 player
to save the expense of replacing the entire unit with a
new CD player. I propose to just wire the MP3 player
into the CD player audio inputs at the radio.
Now it seems there is a 1-wire comms system between the radio and CD changer because if I remove
the CD changer, the CD option on the radio stops
working. I am guessing that it’s an I2C bus of some
kind which works down a single wire (and its shield
braid maybe).
My question is this: is there any way to fool the
radio into switching the CD audio input on without
having to construct some form of decoder for the
comms signal? I know that that’s difficult to answer
without the circuit of the radio but I have been unable to locate a copy and my local Chrysler dealership wants to sell me the $350 manual and will not
photocopy the radio pages for me. (D. S., via email).
• There would be communication between the CD
changer and main radio/CD/cassette unit. However,
it may be a bidirectional communication and so
difficult to duplicate. This is especially tricky since
the information required would be the CD number
in the changer stack, track number and track duration. The sound may stop once the track number
duration is ended.
Perhaps the CD changer could be left in place with
just the audio signal input coming from the MP3
player rather than from the CD changer. That way
the CD function might work.
Another way is to use one of the commercially
available FM stereo transmitters that allow the MP3
player to work through the radio.
which are well suited to the inside of a caravan. And all
for a lot less than $500.
When 230VAC was available, a relay would isolate
the trailer plug and a 12V (13.8V) 20A or 30A industrial
switching power supply would supply the controller. How
does this sound?
Is it possible to use charge controllers and battery chargers in parallel on the same battery and do they interfere
with each other? Additional controllers would provide
safe isolation of a range of charging sources from each
other, eg vehicle, solar, wind, 230VAC, etc and switching
between sources would be automatic.
For example, I’d like a low-cost per amp device to charge
quickly from 230VAC at say 20-30A but when this was
not available, I’d like to use the MPPT Charge Controller
(SILICON CHIP, February 2011) to harvest optimum power
from a small solar array (only a few amps when the sun
shines) without having to operate switches and plugs.
An article on caravan battery and power management
might be an idea. There doesn’t seem to be a complete
solution out there in automotive accessory world. (M. V.,
Kellyville, NSW).
• Generally, a battery protector should be used to prevent
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April 2013 93
Switchmode Power Supply with ±50V Outputs
Is there a switchmode power
supply with outputs of +50V-0-50V
or thereabouts? All I can find are
supplies with positive DC outputs.
I have a Behringer audio mixer that
uses an SMPS and delivers +15V0-15V. Are higher voltages and
current outputs available? (K. M.,
Porirua, NZ).
• While it’s quite possible to design a mains switchmode supply
with positive and negative output
voltages, in practice they’re pretty
uncommon, at least at that sort
of voltage. There are certainly
many amplifiers manufactured with
switchmode supplies these days and
presumably they get custom supplies
made (or design them in-house).
The easiest way to do it would
probably be to buy two 48V supplies
the battery from being discharged
below 11.5V. We published the Battery Guardian in May 2002 and the
Micropower Battery Protector in July
2004 and in May 2002. While you
should have a similar facility in your
situation, probably your battery’s condition is poor and it cannot maintain
sufficient capacity after charging.
A battery can be considered faulty
if it does not deliver its capacity after
full charging or if it appears to rise
to full charge voltage quickly during
charging after a discharge. The fast
rise in voltage usually means a high
impedance cell. It is doubtful that a
battery left to discharge over a long
period of time without periodic charge
or continuous float charging will give
with floating outputs (quite common) and stack them, ie, connect
the positive output of one to the
negative output of the other. That
then becomes your ground rail and
the other two outputs are +48V and
-48V. That also gets you twice the
total power delivery and it’s going to
be easier to find 48V supplies than
±50V supplies.
The alternative is to use a ~100V
supply and generate a virtual ground
rail at the half supply point but then
you would either need to drive the
speaker(s) in bridge mode (ie, two
amplifiers per speaker) or you would
need large AC-coupling capacitors
(electrolytic, several thousand microfarads) from the negative speaker
output terminals to the ground rail,
rated for at least 63V.
satisfactory service after charging.
Typically, a battery should not be
charged at a rate greater than 25% of
its ampere-hour capacity. For example,
a 100Ah battery can be charged at up to
25A. Also typically, a caravan battery
charged from the vehicle’s alternator
will never charge up to its full charge
state due to the voltage drops between
the alternator and the battery via the
leads and caravan connector plug and
socket.
The charge is also dependent on
the battery isolator between the main
vehicle battery and the caravan battery.
A Schottky diode isolator could give
a difference of 0.3V or more between
the main and caravan battery voltages.
A solar charger could be used to
maintain charge while there is no
mains power or charging via the vehicle alternator. And this can help
to provide full charge to the battery
where the vehicle alternator cannot.
On your question as to whether it
is possible to use charge controllers
and battery chargers in parallel on
the same battery and whether they
interfere with each other, it depends on
the individual chargers as to whether
they can be paralleled. If the chargers
share a common ground they should be
able to be paralleled. Also if a charger
is fully floating (eg, solar charger) then
paralleling should also be possible.
During charging, parallel chargers
will provide for increased charge
current during bulk charging. Once
charged or close to full charge, the
charger with the lowest cut-off voltage will cease charging first, followed
by the second charger as the voltage
reaches its cut-off voltage. Absorption
charge (if available) will be dominated
by the charger with the highest cut-off
voltage.
Similarly, during float charge, this
will be dominated by the charger with
the highest float voltage.
It is worth referring to the article
by Collyn Rivers on solar power for
caravans in the July 2003 issue of
SILICON CHIP and also his books on the
subject at http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/books/
Gas stove igniter
circuit wanted
I am a long time reader and builder
of your projects; This time, I am interested in adapting the High Energy
Electronic Ignition from the November
& December 2012 issues to light the gas
continued on page 96
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
94 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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and devotional installation & editing
woes. QuestAV CYP, Kramer TVone
(02) 4343 1970 or sales<at>questronix.
com.au
OLD RADIOS, VALVES, ICs, SPEAKERS, etc, etc. Retired engineer/hobbyist
clearout sale. 4-5-6-7 April, at 62 Victoria
Rd, Pennant Hills, Sydney.
Phone 0439 461 455.
SOLAR PANELS LOW COST: full
range 5W to 250W, eg: 40W/12V Poly
$69, 130W/12V $169, 190W/24V $165,
200W/12V $225, 250W/24V $225,
230W Poly $190.
AGM Batteries: 7AH $19.50, 9AH
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105AH $199, 220AH $399.
(03) 94705851 or (03) 9478 0080
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LEDs! Nichia, Cree and other brand
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www.sesame.com.au
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
2 x 100MSa/s 10bit inputs + trigger
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8 x digital inputs
4M samples/input
Sig-gen + spectrum analyser
Windows 98/Me/NT/2k/XP
IMAGECRAFT C COMPILERS
ANSI C compilers, Windows IDE
AVR, TMS430, ARM7/ARM9
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
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April 2013 95
Advertising Index
A To Z Electronix.......................... 55
ADM Instruments........................... 9
Altronics.................................. 70-73
Blamey & Saunders Hearing........ 11
Embedded Logic Solutions.......... 10
Emona Instruments...................... 29
Front Panel Express....................... 6
Futurlec........................................ 93
Grantronics................................... 95
Harbuch Electronics..................... 88
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from p94
burners of a stove that no longer has a
functioning igniter. I am using a hand
igniter but it would be so much more
elegant to just press a button!
On another topic, I built myself a
3-bedroom house in the late 1990s,
with 230VAC power points and all
lights wired for 12V DC. Solar panels
and wind generators charge a 12V
battery bank for the lights and a 24V
battery bank for a 2500W inverter.
Over the years, I have replaced all
halogen and fluoro lights with LEDs,
mostly strip lights. This works well for
one person and occasional visitors but
in winter needs supplementing with a
generator. (J. V., via email).
• Have a look at the Jacob’s Ladder
project in the February 2013 issue. It
would do the job but it is probably considerable over-kill and would require
a beefy 12V power supply. It would be
more efficient if you could adapt the
piezoelectric igniter commonly used
on outdoor barbecues.
Different module for GPS
Frequency Reference
Is it possible to use the EM-406
GPS module rather than the specified
Garmin device for the GPS Frequency
Reference (SILICON CHIP, March to May
2007)? If so, will the PIC need to be
reprogrammed? (M. O., Warrandyte
South, Vic).
• It should be possible to use the
EM406 GPS receiver module in place
of the Garmin GPS 15L receiver
originally used in the GPS Frequency
Reference, without any modifications
to either the PIC program or the other
hardware. However, you will need to
96 Silicon Chip
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
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WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
PO Box 631, Hillarys, WA 6923
Ph: (08) 9307 7305 Fax: (08) 9307 7309
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net.au
Instant PCBs................................ 95
Jaycar .............................. IFC,45-52
Keith Rippon................................. 95
KitStop............................................ 6
LED Sales.................................... 95
Low Energy Developments.......... 95
make sure that the EM406 receiver
module is placed in a location where
it can get a good “view” of the sky,
since it incorporates its own patch
antenna rather than using an external
active antenna as used by the Garmin
module.
You might need to have the module
external to the GPS Frequency Reference box, like the one described in
our recent GPS Timebase projects in
February 2013 and in this issue.
Dog Blaster not
effective on wallabies
The recent hot dry weather in our
region has forced the local wildlife to
venture into suburban areas looking
for food. It seems my vegetable garden has proved irresistible for some
wallabies.
In an attempt to scare them off, I
have set up a solar-powered security
light but that has no effect. I am wondering if the Barking Dog Blaster kit
(SILICON CHIP, September 2012) would
keep the veggie thieves at bay. I was
thinking of using the security light PIR
sensor to trigger the device. If the Dog
Blaster is not suitable are there any
other detergents (sic) I could use? (B.
A., via email).
• Detergents might work if you
sprayed the wallabies but is not something we would suggest. Just kidding.
An Ultrasonic Barking Dog Blaster
Microchip Technology..................... 3
Mikroelektronika......................... IBC
NPA Pty Ltd.................................. 59
Ocean Controls............................ 19
Premier Batteries........................... 7
Quest Electronics......................... 95
Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD............ 93
RF Modules.................................. 96
Satcam........................................... 8
Sesame Electronics..................... 95
Silicon Chip Bookshop................. 89
Silicon Chip Binders..................... 88
Silicon Chip Order Form............... 35
Silicon Chip Partshop................... 34
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 25
Tekmark Australia........................... 8
Tenrod Pty Ltd.............................. 57
Trio Test & Measurement................ 4
Truscotts Electronic World............ 95
Wiltronics........................................ 5
Worldwide Elect. Components..... 96
operated by a security light detector is
unlikely to deter wallabies. That only
leaves more conventional approaches
such as having wire meshing or even
an electric fence around the garden. If
you have a dog that also might work
although some dogs are quite tolerant
SC
of wild life.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
April 2013 97
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