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Secure Digital Cards
– Clearing Up the Confusion
Secure Digital cards and their smaller siblings,
Mini and MicroSD cards have become the defacto
standard for flash memory storage, winning out
over competitors such as Compact Flash due to
their smaller size, constantly increasing speed and
capacity as well as widespread device support.
But there are many different kinds of SD card and
here we take a look at the differences between them
and some of the technology behind them.
T
ake a look on the shelf of a store
selling flash memory cards (or
on the web page of an online
retailer) and you will find many different kinds of SD cards: SD, SDHC
and SDXC with a speed rating of Class
0, Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, Class 10,
UHS-I (ultra high-speed) and so on.
Each type is generally available in a
variety of capacities and brands in
both full-size, mini and micro format.
MiniSD and MicroSD cards, by the
way, can be be used in devices expecting full-size SD cards with the use of
a passive adaptor.
In many cases, this adaptor, which is
exactly the same size as a standard SD
card, comes with the Mini or MicroSD card.
That’s a lot of different options
– possibly hundreds. The various
“classes” refer to the read/write speed
that the card can manage and this is
important if you are going to use it
in a video camera or digital SLR still
camera - especially with a video camera as a slow card will limit the video
quality you can record at.
Just how fast the card needs to be for
a video camera depends on the shooting resolution (eg, 640x480, 1280x720
[720p] or 1920x1080 [1080p]), the
44 Silicon Chip
A micro
SD card,
also known as
a “Transflash”
Card.
frame rate and the video compression format being used. Some newer
cameras can even record in resolutions
above 1080p such as “2.7K” (eg, GoPro
Hero 3 Black). The SD card being used
for recording needs to be pretty fast
to keep up.
The main difference between SD,
SDHC and SDXC is the maximum
capacity that type of card can have,
although higher transfer speeds are
also restricted to the newer SDHC
and SDXC formats. But some devices
may not support all the latest types
of SD card; generally this will mean
the performance is restricted although
in some cases, it may not work at all.
Card classes
Some SD cards indicate a speed in
MB/s, or relative to CD speeds (eg,
by Nicholas Vinen
600x = 90MB/s). But those ratings can
be a bit “optimistic” so the SD Card
Association came up with an official
class rating system.
If a card is “Class 0” or doesn’t indicate a class at all (and isn’t a UHS
type) then that means the speed isn’t
guaranteed. It isn’t very common to
see such a device any more and this
type of card would best be used in an
application where speed is not critical,
eg, data logging.
Cards labelled class 2, 4, 6 or 10
(the logo being a number inside a big
“C”) indicate the minimum sustained
write speed, in megabytes per second,
of the card in an unfragmented state. In
addition, classes 2, 4 and 6 assert that
the card’s write speed must degrade
gracefully as the free space on the card
becomes increasingly fragmented.
This occurs as files are repeatedly
written and deleted.
Class 2 is reckoned to be fast enough
for recording standard definition video
while class 4 is required for HD video.
Class 6 offers improved HD recording
quality or higher frame rates.
Class 10 is identical to class 6 except
in the case where the recording is going to a completely empty area of the
SD card (eg, after formatting the card),
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where the minimum continuous write
speed must be at least 10MB/s.
Card labelled UHS-I or UHS-II use a
faster interface with the host device/
computer and generally are indicated
as either “speed grade 0” (<10MB/s)
or “speed grade 1” (>10MB/s). This
latter speed grade is indicated with
a 1 inside a U and most UHS-I cards
will manage at least 10MB/s. This is
effectively the same as Class 10.
Note that to achieve the rated performance, you must used a particular
file system on the card, for reasons
explained below.
That means you shouldn’t reformat
an SD card unless it is absolutely
necessary, as the newly formatted file
system may not be the correct one for
best performance. If you must format
it, there is a utility available from the
SD Card Association (see link at end of
article) which will do the job properly.
Card types and file systems
The latest type of SD card is called
SDXC for eXtended Capacity which
allows capacities up to 2048GB (2TB).
The previous generation is SDHC for
High Capacity which supports up to
32GB. There is some cross-over with
32GB cards available in both types.
Besides the increased maximum
capacity, there is relatively little difference between SDHC and SDXC
cards. In fact they are similar enough
that SDXC cards up to 128GB will
work in some devices designed before
SDXC came along. The main issue
with backwards-compatibility is in
the file system.
All SDXC cards come formatted
with exFAT which is a new version
of the FAT file system (“file allocation
table”), designed to support higher
capacities.
Unfortunately, this is not a licensefree format and it is currently proprietary to Microsoft although some
third-party software allows access to
exFAT from other operating systems
such as Linux.
This also means though that older
versions of Windows (before Vista SP1)
and MacOS will not be able to access
the contents of SDXC cards.
However, FAT32 actually works
for capacities up to about 2TB. So for
SDXC cards, you have the option to
re-format them with FAT32 and they
will then work in most devices, with
the caveat that the maximum file size
is then 4GB.
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Other types of flash memory cards
There have been several different types of flash memory cards developed
over the years (years? They’ve only been around since the mid 1990s!)
SD cards, which this article has concentrated on, might be the most popular
but they are in fact a spin-off from the earlier MMC or multi-media card. It’s getting
difficult to find MMC cards these days because of the popularity
of
SD cards. The two are often considered interchangeable but
that’s not strictly true. SD cards are thicker than MMC (2.1mm
vs 1.4mm) so MMC cards will usually fit into a dedicated
SD reader; the reverse is usually not true. The file structure
is also slightly different but the main difference between
the two is that “secure” area (hence SD card) which was
first developed for digital rights management in music, etc.
Transflash is simply another name for microSD cards.
Still fairly popular and relatively easy to get are Compact Flash
cards, although they too have largely given way to SD cards. The
main reason for this is size – CF cards (there are actually two, CFI
and CFII) are significantly larger than even standard SD cards;
the difference between CF and micro SD is quite
dramatic. 32GB CF cards are common, 64GB
are also available but not common. Expect
to pay between $200 and $300 for a “brand
name” 64GB CF Card; by contrast a “brand
name” 64GB Class 10 SD card shouldn’t
cost much more than
$100 and we’ve seen
them for as low as
$40. But compare
these to the latest Lexar
256GB C10 (600x speed) SDs
which sell for close to $1000!
Another card which was (briefly!) popular
was the SmartMedia Card. As far as we can tell, the
maximum size this card was ever made in was 128MB
(yes, megabytes) and even in their day, were expensive.
Similarly the MiniCard went the way of the dodo, despite being promoted as “the standard” back in the mid 90s. Its main claim to fame was
that it used the PCMCIA (later PC) bus, though this did not lead to its longevity!
Some manufacturers have tried to be clever by bringing out their own proprietary flash memory cards to lock others out of their systems. Companies such
as Sony with their Memory Stick and Memory Stick Pro, and the Fuji/Olympus
XD card, are two such examples.
Once again, proprietary cards were usually more
expensive (often significantly so) than their SD counterparts and the XD card, for example, was never available
with more than 2GB capacity. While physically smaller
than SD cards, XD cards are nevertheless larger than
mini or micro SD. Newer models of Fuji/Olympus cameras
support both XD and SD or, lately, SD only.
Similar comments can be made for Sony’s Memory
Stick and Memory Stick Pro – their latest cameras support both their stick and SD cards. And Sony has also
released their own SD cards. However, Sony still supports
the Memory Stick format, which is currently available up to 64GB and
has a maximum theoretical size of 2TB (Memory Stick Pro). A 64GB model
usually sells for around $100.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of all types of flash memory cards.
Wikipedia, for example, lists 25 different card types, although several of these
have sunk without trace and others may not be available in this country.
SD cards – in all their iterations – remain a pretty safe bet . . . at least until
something newer and better comes along!
July 2013 45
Maximum Power (W) (light blue: optional for SDXC cards)
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
0
All SD Cards
default speed mode (3.3V)
high speed mode (3.3V)
3
UHS-I (UHS50) SD Cards
single data rate/12 (1.8V)
single data rate/25 (1.8V)
single data rate/50 (1.8V)
double data rate/50 (1.8V)
UHS-I (UHS104) SD Cards
single data rate/104 (1.8V)
UHS-II SD Cards
full duplex/156 (1.8V)
(optional) half duplex/312 (1.8V)
0
25
50
75 100 125 150 175 200 225 250 275 300
Transfer Speed (MB/s) Frequency (MHz)
Fig.1: peak read/write speeds for SD cards in various modes. Each type of card
should support the modes listed above it, ie, UHS104 cards also support the
modes for UHS50 and regular SD cards. Transfer speed is shown in red (bottom
scale) and clock frequency in blue (bottom scale) while maximum power
consumption is in cyan (top scale).
But there are a couple of problems
with reformatting SD cards. Problem
number one is that for some unknown
reason, most versions of Windows
refuse to format a volume larger than
32GB with the FAT32 file system –
even though they will happily read
and write such a volume.
This can be solved by the use of a
third-party formatting utility such as
“guiformat”, which is a graphical version of “fat32format” (www.ridgecrop.
demon.co.uk/guiformat.htm).
The other problem is that reformatting an SD card with a different file
system (or even different options)
can seriously impact its performance.
That’s because, for efficient writing of
large files, the card controller needs to
know which flash blocks are free and
which are used. That’s so when writ-
Actual size
comparison between
the original SD card,
(top, 32 x 24mm),
a MiniSD, (centre,
21.5 x 20mm) and a
MicroSD, (bottom,
11 x 15mm). Card
capacity has no
bearing on
dimensions.
Only the standard SD
card features a write/
erase lock (left side).
46 Silicon Chip
ing a partial block, it knows whether
or not it has to preserve the rest of the
block, which takes extra time.
Since all SDXC cards are designed
for use with exFAT, when reformatted
with FAT32 writing may be dramatically slower. Also, the “wear levelling”
algorithm may not work as well, leading to a shortened life. We’ll explain
that later.
Protected area
So what makes Secure Digital cards
“secure” exactly?
It’s the protected area, which we
believe is hardly ever used any more.
This allows data to be stored in an
encrypted format and is supposed to
be used to restrict access to copyright
content on an SD card.
The stated capacity of an SD card
includes this protected area, which is
why you can never quite fit as much on
an SD card as you think you should.
As SD card capacities have increased (and, we suspect, manufacturers have realised how few applications
there are for this protected area), the
proportion of the flash memory available for general storage has increased.
For example, a 4GB Toshiba SDHC
card has a 32MB protected area (0.8%)
while their 8GB card has a 48MB protected area (0.6%).
High-speed interfaces
The UHS-I and UHS-II high-speed
interfaces were introduced along
with the new SDXC card format but
support for them is optional. SDHC
cards may optionally support UHS
modes as well.
The main difference between them
is that UHS-I is physically compatible
with the older SD card interface and offers somewhat higher speed operation
while UHS-II introduces additional
contacts on the card and so requires
a new type of socket but offers higher
speeds again.
Before UHS-I, the fastest speed SD
card interface available was “high
speed” mode, giving a burst speed up
to 25MB/s (see Fig.1). UHS-I introduces several new modes, all operating
with 1.8V signalling.
It is well known that lower voltage
signalling allows higher transmission
speeds, due to slew rate limitations
such as parasitic capacitance and so
on. So UHS-I doubles the maximum
speed, to 50MB/s.
This can be achieved either with a
doubling of the clock, up to 100MHz,
or else by sticking with the same
50MHz clock rate as before but transferring four bits of data on both the
rising and falling edge of the clock
signal, ie, double data rate (DDR). This
is a common technique and has been
in common use for PC RAM for over
ten years now.
In either case, the UHS-I card is
allowed to draw up to 1.44W while
active or nearly 500mA at 3.3V, twice
what a regular high-speed SD card is
allowed to draw (ie, 0.72W) and four
times the maximum that a regular SD
card normally draws in low-speed
mode (0.36W).
While signalling in the UHS-I modes
occurs at 1.8V, the card still runs off
3.3V. It must step down this voltage
internally and this provides one of
While SD cards have dramatically
increased in capacity over the years,
they’ve shrunk in size – first to mini,
as seen above, and more recently
to micro (or Transflash). This has
enabled backwards compatibility
using adaptor as seen at right (in this
case for MiniSD) Mini or Micro SD
cards slide inside the adaptor and so
can be used in devices with full-size
SD card sockets.
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Demonstrating just
how little space is
actually used inside
the SD card, this
32GB Transcend
model also houses
a complete WiFi
transceiver, which
allows you to send
your photos direct
to you computer
without the card ever leaving your
camera. We reviewed the original
“Eye-Fi” Connect X2 SD card back in
the October 2010 issue – it was only a
4GB card and the storage (ie, SD) side
has since failed with constant use.
the limitations for UHS-I performance
and is why UHS-II was devised at the
same time.
Even faster cards
Faster UHS-I cards can optionally
support UHS104 mode. In this mode,
the card can draw even more power,
up to 2.88W or nearly 1A. Maximum
transfer rate is increased again, to
104MB/s by a further increase in the
clock rate to a maximum of 208MHz.
UHS104 mode does not support DDR.
To operate correctly with such a
high clock frequency, the SD card host
must first interrogate the card for some
“tuning” information which tells it
about the timings for this specific card,
possibly including calibration values
programmed into the card at the factory to account for process variations
and other factors. The host must then
adjust its signal timing to match for
reliable transfers.
Despite all these new modes, UHS-I
cards (and indeed UHS-II cards) generally remain backwards-compatible
with older host devices.
That’s because most of these new
features must be activated by the host,
once it has determined that the card
supports them.
When first powered up, these cards
initially operate in the standard, lowspeed mode and the specification
requires them to support all the older
modes including the regular highspeed mode and so on.
So to get the advantages of the new
high speed modes, both the card and
host device must support them. And
of course, the flash in the card has to
be fast enough, otherwise faster signalling doesn’t get you anything much.
In fact, a UHS-I card is not necessarily any faster than a Class 10
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How much can you store on an SD Card?
2 GB
4 GB
8 GB
16 GB
32 GB
20m
30m
45m
40m
60m
60m
80m
120m
180m
160m
240m
360m
320m
480m
720m
770
1,540
3,080
6,160
12,320
Movies (minutes)
(Hi-def movie recording MPEG-4; H.264)
Fine mode (13Mbps/CBR)
Normal mode (9Mbps/VBR)
Economy mode (6Mbps/VBR)
Photos (number)
(10 Megapixels, 3648x2736, Fine mode)
Music (hours and minutes)
(ACC, MP3 HQ mode, 128Kbps)
34h 7m 68h 14m 136h 27m 272h 54m
545h 48m
Typical capacities of various size SD cards for movies, photos and music. Actual
capacities may vary, depending on file size and compression used.
SD card or even a Class 6 card.
Many newer devices such as digital
cameras support UHS-I cards and there
are quite a few such cards now available, some claiming transfer speeds
of up to 90MB/s in ideal conditions.
While not part of the official SD
specifications, because UHS-I/Class
10 are so vague as to the actual performance of the card, some manufacturers
still specify the peak speed in order
to differentiate their products from
slower competitors which may be in
the same class.
Yet more speed
UHS-II adds eight new pads to the
SD card: three grounds, a dedicated
1.8V supply and two pairs of differential signalling lines. Differential signalling is another common technique
for increasing transfer speeds and is
used by USB, Ethernet, PCI Express,
HyperTransport and many other communication technologies.
The two signalling “lanes” can
be used either to send and receive
data simultaneously (full duplex) or
The number inside
the “C” symbol
(ringed in red here)
shows the speed of
the card – in this
case, it’s a Class 10
which is suitable
for use in video
cameras and similar
devices requiring a
high speed data transfer. If there is no
symbol shown (as in the card on the
opposite page) no claim is made to its
class (speed) and therefore it can be
assumed to be the lowest speed. Such
cards are cheap but they are really
only suitable for non-demanding
applications such as data logging.
configured to operate in the same
direction for faster reading or writing
(half duplex).
UHS-2 is similar to the commonly
used LVDS (low voltage differential
signalling) protocol but with an even
lower voltage swing. The signal lines
are operated as transmission lines to
allow such a high speed and by sending one bit at a time, edge alignment of
multiple signals due to different path
lengths is no longer an issue.
In UHS-II mode, the normal SD
card power supply contact remains at
3.3V and a differential clock signal is
applied to pads 7 and 8, which were
previously used for data transmission.
This clock operates at a fraction of the
data transmission frequency, generally
25-50MHz, while the data signals can
be up to 1.5Gbps.
Obviously UHS-II operation is quite
different from UHS-I but the cards will
be backwards compatible. We aren’t
aware of any UHS-II cards on the
market just yet, nor any devices which
can take advantage of them.
Wear levelling
Flash memory does not have an
infinite life – there is a limit to how
many times a block of flash can be
written to before it becomes unreliable, ranging from as few as 100 up to
millions of times.
So most flash memory storage devices use some kind of “wear levelling”, which “spreads the load” of data
storage to areas of the device which
might otherwise remain unused.
Consider an SD card used in a digital
camera, where a few photos are taken
each time the camera is used and those
files are then moved off onto a computer. New files are normally placed
at the beginning of the card.
July 2013 47
What causes memory card failure?
Memory card failure happens more often than we would
like. We are referring to both data corruption and a complete
loss of function (and thus data). The most obvious cause
would be physical damage; SD cards are small enough that
they can easily be dropped, stepped on, bent, split open
and so on. There’s only one way to avoid that and that’s to
handle with care! Incidentally, the SD card standard calls
for them to be able to handle just a 3m drop.
We’ve also heard that physical wear can be an issue, ie, if
you insert and remove an SD card often enough, the contacts
can wear out, both on the card and in the host device. You’d
have to be doing an awful lot of insertions and removals to
end up in that situation though.
Ignoring physical damage, you have two classes of failure.
The first is where the memory card itself works fine but files
inexplicably vanish or in the worst case, the card isn’t even
recognised as valid by the computer. This can happen if
the card has been removed from a device while it is being
written to, due to a bug in a device you have plugged it into
or when it’s on the verge of failure from the flash memory
reaching its end-of-life.
If the card is still recognised but files are missing or otherwise corrupt, you can try using one of the various pieces
of software which attempt to recover files from damaged
cards. There are many free ones available, some of which
works quite well and others which... don’t.
The simplest type of recovery you can attempt is to simply
check the device for file system errors and recover any “lost”
files. This can often be done simply by running a “scandisk”
tool on it, which is generally built into your operating system.
So if data is simply stored in a block
based on its storage address, that area
of flash will be constantly written
to while the rest may be left largely
untouched.
Even though there’s plenty of working memory remaining, if these first
blocks are used again and again the
card will quickly become useless.
The primarily solution is to rearrange where data is stored in the flash
memory and keep track of what is
stored where using a mapping table
which says where data was written
to versus where it is actually stored.
This way, the controller can perform
subsequent writes to different flash
blocks even if they are at the same
storage address.
So writes can be spread out evenly
among the flash blocks and thus you
get the maximum possible lifespan. In
other words, this technique evens out
how quickly the flash blocks wear out,
hence “wear levelling”.
But for this to work, the controller
must know which blocks are free;
it can only cycle through writing to
unoccupied blocks of flash. So if the
48 Silicon Chip
In Windows, this is accessed by right-clicking on the drive
letter, going to the Properties dialog and then the Tools tab
and clicking the “Check now” button.
If you’re lucky, the missing files will be placed in the root
directory or in a folder created for them. Their file names
may be scrambled but hopefully the contents are OK.
You could also try a program like CardRecovery/CardRescue or one of the other programs available on the ’net for
this type of job. Some are free while others may have a trial
version that will at least let you check that you can recover
some files before forking out for the full version.
Sometimes, the SD card controller or flash memory
chip can fail entirely. The result is usually that the card is
no longer detected as valid in any device. Windows Disk
Management may not listed or if it is listed, shown it as “No
Media” or containing no valid partitions.
If there’s important data on it, your only choice then is to
go to a recovery professional (look up “data recovery” in the
Yellow Pages). This won’t be cheap but they should have
specialised gear and thus are likely to be able to get some
or all of your data back. If there isn’t any critical data on it,
you’re better off binning and buying a new (and probably
bigger and faster) card.
Besides manufacturing faults, the most likely reason for
the total electrical failure of a memory card is either a static
discharge to its contacts or voltage spike from something
you plugged it into.
If you have more than one card fail, you may may have a
faulty piece of gear which is damaging them; possibly the
last thing you used that card in.
card is nearly full or if a file system
is used that the controller doesn’t
understand then wear levelling is no
longer effective.
A related strategy used to extend
flash life is to have more flash blocks
than necessary for the stated capacity
of the device (say 1% extra).
Some blocks of flash in use may
wear out much sooner than others and
when that happens, these can simply
be marked as bad and skipped over. As
long as there are enough spare blocks
left, there’s still enough space to store
the full data capacity.
It’s possible for the controller to
determine when a block is going to
Something you’d
hope to never see: the
inside of a typical SD card.
The large “hynix” chip at the
bottom is the actual flash memory (in
this case 16Gbit); the smaller “blob”
above it would be the controller.
wear out when reading it based on
how close the stored voltages are to the
thresholds which determine whether
a given bit is read as a zero or a one.
If this voltage (which changes with
use) is too close to the threshold then
the block can no longer be considered
reliable and can be disabled.
Further details
The SD card standard is rather
complex; the simplified version runs
to 186 pages and this covers only
the electrical characteristics of the
cards themselves. The host controller specification is separate, as is the
description of the protected area and
the various extensions to the standard
such as SDIO (for WiFi and Bluetooth
adaptors in the SD card format).
Hopefully we’ve covered the more
salient points here and given readers
the knowledge required to work out
which card to buy for a given application.
For more information, refer to the
SD Card Association website – and
specifically the downloads page, at
www.sdcard.org/downloads/pls/ SC
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