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siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 1
P
23 vali rice
/0 d u s
7/ nt
20 il
13
ED JUL
IT Y
IO
N
WINTER
PROJECTS
Test & Inspection Equipment
12VDC Voltage Polarity Easy Tester
A passive, quick and easy testing solution that performs five
essential tests in the field: voltage, load, polarity, voltage drop
and continuity. Ideal for CCTV and security
installers, car audio, roadies,
AV techs etc.
$
14 95
• Size: 51(L)
x 44(W) x
SAVE $10
29(H)mm
QP-2215 was $24.95
IP67 True RMS DMM
with Wireless USB
& Storage
PRECISION
Tool Kit
This handy set will fit the bill
for all those microscopic
fasteners we come across in
modern electronics. Along
side these 15 piece drivers
(TD-2069 $24.95) are five
stainless steel 115mm
cutters and pliers
(TH-1812 $29.95)
and a sturdy ABS
storage case
(HB-6304 $8.95) with
solid clasps and removable
compartment trays.
$
49
BUY
QM-1575 &
GET QM-1500
FREE
44 95
SAVE $15
TD-2112 was $12.95
$
9 95
SAVE $3
iPhone not included
®
$
• 8:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Auto data hold
• Temperature range:
-30˚C to +260˚C
• Size: 131(H) x 96(W)
$
x 35(D)mm
QM-7215
Total
Package
valued at
$63.85 save
$13.90
$
The tools you need to safely open up
your iPhone® and put it back together
again. Suits iPhone® 3G,
3GS & 4G. See website
for list of contents.
179
00
Filter Your TV Reception!
A large part of the TV spectrum is being
reallocated to mobile phone services
(for LTE Technology). This means
that future mobile phone
services may interfere with
your TV reception. You can
eliminate this problem by
inserting this filter into the
antenna input line of your
TV. No power supply required.
Safely measure temperature in hot, hazardous, or
hard to reach places with the built-in laser pointer
directed at the surface. Provides several readings
within seconds. Compact and easy
to use with carry case included.
49
• F type connectors
• Freq. Range: 5-694MHz
• Size: 47(L) x 21(Dia.)mm
LT-3061
95
NEW
$
95
24
PCB Etching Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine Nov/Dec 2012
High quality amplifier boasting 250WRMS output into 4 ohms, 150W into 8 ohms
and can be bridged with a second kit for 450W into 8 ohms. Features include high
efficiency (90% <at> 4 ohm), low distortion and noise (<0.01%), and over-current,
over-temperature, under-voltage, over-voltage and DC offset protection. Kit supplied
with double sided, soldermasked and screen-printed silk-screened PCB with SMD
IC pre-soldered, heatsink, and electronic circuit board mounted components.
• Power requirements: -57V/0/+57V (see KC-5517)
• S/N ratio: 103dB
• Freq. response: 10Hz - 10kHz, +/- 1dB
• PCB: 117 x 167mm
KC-5514
Also available:
An ideal kit for anyone to etch a circuit board. Complete
with an assortment of copper boards, etchant,
working bath and tweezers. It also includes
photosensitive PCB and
$
95
developer. See web site
for full list of inclusions.
SAVE $8
HG-9990 was $27.95
19
ATTENTION KIT BUILDERS
Can’t find the kit you are looking for?
Try the Jaycar Kit Back Catalogue
Stereo Speaker Protector Kit to suit
KC-5515 $29.95
KC-5517 $29.95
• 7m long cable
• Mirror and magnet pick-up
tool included
• Software included
• Size: 10(Dia.) x 7(L)mm
QC-3371 was $59.95
Economy Non-Contact
Thermometer
95
High-Power Class-D Audio Amplifier Kit
+/- 57V Power Supply Kit to suit
Use a laptop as a monitor to check for termites and
other rodents, insulation, finding lost tools etc. Features
a 10mm diameter camera with two variable
intensity LEDs for illumination.
Tool Set Repair Kit for iPhone®
Double moulded case and IP67 waterproof
protected. This meter can also be used as a
data logger which can be connected to a PC via
wireless USB interface keeping the PC completely
isolated from whatever is being measured.
• True RMS
• Data hold, auto ranging
QM-1500
• 10A max AC or DC
• 1000V max AC or DC worth $9.95
• Size: 182(H) x 82(W) x 55(D)mm
QM-1575
USB Mini Inspection Camera
$
89 95
To order call 1800 022 888
Our central warehouse keeps a quantity of
older and slow-moving kits that can no longer
be held in stores. A list of kits can be found on
page 79 of our catalogue or our website. Just
search for “kit back catalogue”.
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.26, No.7; July 2013
SILICON
CHIP
100 Years Of AWA
– Page 12.
Features
12 100 Years Of AWA
It’s now 100 years since the formation of Amalgamated Wireless Australasia
Ltd (AWA), the most important electronics company ever to exist in Australia –
by Kevin Poulter
20 Cheap & Cheerful Smart TV Conversion
Why buy a smart TV when you can do a simple work-around with your existing
TV? You could end up with a smarter TV than a smart TV! – by Julian James
44 Secure Digital Cards: Clearing Up the Confusion
There are many different kinds of SD & MicroSD cards. We take a look at their
differences and at the technology behind them – by Nicholas Vinen
Pro jects To Build
24 DIY Wireless Audio Streaming
Want to wirelessly stream high-quality audio from your PC to a USB audio
device such as our CLASSiC DAC? Here’s how to hack a cheap router to do
the job – by Nicholas Vinen
DIY Wireless Audio
Streaming – Page 24.
32 Li’l Pulser Model Train Controller, Mk.2
New design features pulse power for smooth running, adjustable simulated
inertia, good speed regulation, reversing, short circuit protection and an output
current capability of up to 8A. It’s also very easy to build – by John Clarke
64 Add A UHF Link To A Universal Remote Control
Need longer range from your IR remote control? Fit this tiny IR-To-UHF module
inside the remote and build the companion UHF-To-IR receiver to operate
equipment from anywhere inside or outside your home – by John Clarke
74 Demonstration Circuits For Human Colour Vision
Build these two circuits to demonstrate how the various colours are generated
and perceived by the human eye – by James Goding
84 Build A USB Port Voltage Checker
An incorrectly wired USB port can destroy a flash drive. Test it first with
this handy USB port checker. It can also be used to check for USB voltage
fluctuations when a device is plugged in – by Nicholas Vinen
Li’l Pulser Model Train
Controller Mk.2 – Page 32.
Special Columns
57 Serviceman’s Log
Smoke: it’s not always a bad thing – by Dave Thompson
76 Circuit Notebook
(1) Trailer Light Testing Unit; (2) Audio Breakout Cable For The iPhone; (3)
Setting A Real Time Clock With GPS Time
90 Vintage Radio
Add A UHF Link To A Universal
Remote Control – Page 64.
Restoring an AWA B15 AM broadcast receiver – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
3 Mailbag
73 Subscriptions
siliconchip.com.au
88 Product Showcase
96 Online Shop
98 Ask Silicon Chip
103 Market Centre
Build This USB Port Voltage
Checker – Page 84.
July 2013 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Kevin Poulter
Stan Swan
Dave Thompson
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
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E-mail: silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
Publisher’s Letter
Nuclear power is the answer
Back in February 2013 we published a feature article by
Dr David Maddison on the historic Rubicon hydroelectric
power station in Victoria which is actually still running
today after being completed in 1929. At the end of that
article, the author commented about the comparable costs
of hydroelectric versus nuclear power. It was a logical
comment but it triggered a letter to the Mailbag pages in
the April 2013 issue from one reader who decried the
thousands of deaths and environmental damage due to
the nuclear power stations and associated disasters.
In fact, I added a comment to that letter which contradicted some of what he said
but that was not enough to mollify informed readers who vehemently disagreed
with the letter’s content. We have featured three of their letters in the Mailbag pages
of this issue and they all emphasise the exceptional safety record of nuclear power
stations, notwithstanding the events at Chernobyl, Three Mile Island and Fukushima.
Fukushima has obviously triggered some wildly illogical decisions in Europe,
the most notable being the decision by the German government to decommission
all of its nuclear power stations. They need to make up the shortfall in electricity
generation by burning more coal and natural gas. Not only is this increasing electricity costs to German consumers but it means that there is more air pollution and
greatly increased output of that dreaded carbon dioxide which supposedly leads
to inexorable global warming. Well, only those people who have been hunkered
down in a cave (presumably unheated) would not realise that the nexus between
rising carbon dioxide and global warming has been seriously challenged.
But if decisions to close nuclear power stations are illogical, what is happening
to the huge Drax coal-fired power station in England utterly beggars belief. Due
to the need for the UK to comply with EU directives about “carbon pollution”, it
has become uneconomic for the Drax power station to burn coal. They use 36,000
tonnes of it every day. Big problem. But they can burn biomass. It is much more
expensive but they can get government subsidies because burning biomass supposedly comes under the heading of “renewable energy”. Never mind the fact that
taxpayers have to pay for this.
So what sort of biomass will Drax be burning? Wood! Yes, they are going to
import millions of tonnes of wood from the USA! Utterly bizarre!
All of which makes Australian governments’ various measures to combat global
warming seem almost sane by comparison. Except that they are not sane or sensible. It is doubtful whether all the measures put in place, including the substantial
subsidies to solar and wind power, have had any significant effect on Australia’s
overall emissions of carbon dioxide. Sure, overall electricity consumption has
dropped a little but that is probably more a result of consumers reducing electricity
usage in response to rising prices than any other factor.
We now have the situation in Australia where virtually all our existing coal-fired
power stations are getting to the point where they need to be replaced or upgraded.
But there does not appear to be any plan for this from the various state governments.
Nor is there any incentive for private enterprise to build or upgrade new coal-fired
power stations. Soon, that will have to change.
Hopefully, with the election of a new government in a few months’ time, there
will be a change so that serious planning can be done for new power generation.
And given the known environmental drawbacks of coal-mining and coal-fired power
stations, that planning must include nuclear power stations to provide base-load
power. No-one should be under the illusion that Australia’s base-load electricity
can be provided by solar and wind power. Let the debate begin.
Leo Simpson
Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Good article on
lithium batteries
I would like to offer my congratulations to Stan Swan. His article on
LiFePO4 batteries in the June 2013
issue was very informative and a
pleasure to read. It is obvious that these
batteries and their close cousins, the
Lithium Polymer types, will be the
portable power supply of choice in
the not too distant future.
Well done Stan and thanks for a very
useful article.
Jeff Monegal,
Jimboomba, Qld.
Modular functions
are the way to go
I wish to comment on the Publisher’s Letter in the May 2013 issue,
on the amount of the complexity that
should be put into individual projects,
particularly those that are softwaredriven. I use my current practical
interests as two different examples.
At the moment, I am updating my
ageing although still well-performing
audio system. Even today, the bedrock
and major cost of a good-quality audio
system is the speakers and power
amplifiers.
Small signal systems now abound
since digital recording and transmission blossomed with the use of cheap
computers and LSI chips. So bringing
all inputs altogether in a versatile
audio/video distribution system tail
USB dongle &
software-defined radio
I have two comments about the
article in May 2013 regarding these
devices. Your very last paragraph
mentions a spurious peak on the
display. This is generally caused by
a slight imbalance between the “I”
and “Q” signals. Luckily, SDR# can
overcome this automatically.
In the top lefthand control area of
the “Radio” box, there is a tick box
marked “Correct IQ”. Ticking this
siliconchip.com.au
ored for one’s own requirements is
now the ideal. It is one which is very
expensive for top-quality off-the-shelf
consumer products and an area of the
market where SILICON CHIP is highly
competitive and could be an innovative leader.
The new CLASSiC DAC has six
digital inputs which would form the
basis of a high-quality preamp. Coupled with the modules from the stereo
preamplifier in November & December
2011 and a subwoofer module makes
a 2.1 system with a remote volume
control. I need only one RCA input for
the FM radio; the rest are now digital
while many are also fed via HDMI
through the TV to the audio system.
The power amplifiers can have simple volume controls which especially
for a home-theatre system can all be
preset and sealed for balance. The
system being modular and able to be
updated, other people with different
needs can adapt the modules to their
purposes.
I would like to update to hometheatre but I wonder if it is possible
to remove a decoder chip from an old
DVD player and use a piggyback board
to insert it into a DAC system?
Secondly, for science-based projects
and similar where appearance is not
the issue, experimenters can put modules to other uses, especially if only
software is needed to change function.
The new Raspberry Pi springs to mind
will eliminate the spurious peak and
as an added bonus, the very top line
of the window will now show the
extent of the correction. In my case,
an amplitude error of about 1.005
and a phase error of about 0.05°; not
very much but enough.
The other point is a matter of
convenience more than anything
else. In each of your screen grabs,
you show a large amount of “dead”
space in the spectrum displays, ie,
the blue area in the lower half of the
and perhaps could be made into a field
module.
Initially, it could be a useful addition to the Infrasound Detector from
the March 2013 issue as a frequency
multiplier, to bring the LF output into
the audio range. The brain is much better adapted to processing audio than
trying to understand visual representation. It would make the infrasound
detector a quick and very rapid scanning/recording instrument.
SILICON CHIP is as much, if not more,
a current technology and educational
informational magazine as a home project construction publication. It covers
a wide level of readership including
and most importantly the school-age
family group.
SILICON CHIP’s many articles explaining technology are always carefully
written to satisfy a wide-ranging level
of readership. The classic must be the
series of Engine Management articles
which surely must now be the standard learning text for the auto industry;
brilliant.
Kelvin Jones,
Kingston, Tas.
Solar installation that
re-fused to power up
While doing a walk around my
home, I noticed the inverter on my
display. Since these dongles only
use 8-bit data, their dynamic range
is not great and will never use the
lower half of the display.
Once again the software comes to
the rescue. In the “FFT Display” box,
the lowest slider sets the range of this
display and a quick adjustment will
bring the lower edge of the display
to say -70dB and eliminate most of
the waste space.
Ian Malcolm,
Scoresby, Vic.
July 2013 3
Mailbag: continued
Extra circuit features
are always welcome
Regarding your May 2013 Publisher’s Letter requesting feedback
on DAC-type projects, I’m sure
that constructors of the kit would
automatically welcome the extra
features. But what proportion of
readership would benefit from said
action, as opposed to the number
that construct the Do-Not-Disturb
Telephone Timer?
With the advent of microcontroller-based projects, we get away
from basic electronic principles, eg,
how transistors are biased and utilised. For newcomers, descriptions
detailing component use are normally only reserved for how power
supplies work (eg, the CLASSiC-D’s
DC-DC converter) and even then, a
complex IC (TL494) is used.
What I’m alluding to is the untapped market of electronic enthusiasts with basic electronic know
solar power system was not working
despite it being a clear sunny day.
A quick check with the voltmeter
showed that there was 300V DC at
the inverter input and the grid-feed
AC reference was present. However,
when the DC was reconnected to the
inverter, the voltage dropped to zero.
Thinking the over-voltage protection had tripped, I then checked the
protection MOVs and associated PTCs
(as these are designed for easy replacement). Unfortunately, they were OK
and were not the problem. A check
of the purchase documents showed
that the warranty for the inverter had
expired three months ago.
Faced with the prospect of buying a
new inverter or, as I was informed by
the manufacturer, buying an exchange
unit for 450 euro (whatever that is
in Australian dollars), I still had a
niggling thought that the problem
may be external to the inverter. It appeared that the solar panels couldn’t
supply the necessary current (around
4A) so after a quick risk assessment,
I clambered onto the roof and started
inspecting the solar panels (as they
come with a 25-year warranty).
My first observation was a junction
4 Silicon Chip
ledge, that play with Arduino and
Ti LaunchPad microcontrollers etc. I
do not mean we need more projects
based on these devices but feel that at
every opportunity (if you use a device
like the PIC12F675) you should put
the commented source code up on
your website.
Even if one is not going to construct the project, the readers can
gain knowledge in how the code is
utilised. Most people know C these
days and of course BASIC from the
PICAXE. It would be nice to see how
a simple (on the surface) circuit with
a PIC, two transistors, nine diodes
and a few passive components can
perform as a phone timer function.
I have purchased every magazine
since the “Radio Television and Hobbies” days and still look forward to
each issue but in most cases, it’s now
the Circuit Notebook I turn to first.
Grant Forest,
Whittington, Vic.
box that contained an in-line fuse. I
could measure 300V DC on both ends
of the fuse, which at first made me
believe it was OK (this measurement
was taken with the inverter disconnected – hence no load current). I then
checked the resistance of the fuse out
of circuit. It measured around 2kΩ and
shaking it changed its resistance. The
fuse hadn’t blown but had just grown
old and tired.
Under load conditions, the full
voltage was dissipated across the fuse.
When not drawing current there was
no voltage drop, which was why I
could measure 300V at the inverter
input but it fell to zero when I put
the inverter load onto it. Replacing
the fuse restored the system to full
functionality, much to my relief.
Now here is my dilemma: why is
the fuse there? It is on the roof in an
enclosed box and used as a connection
point between the solar panels and the
cable feeding down to the inverter (via
circuit breakers). The fuse is rated at
8A and it is a DC fuse, to provide arc
suppression, however the maximum
current the panels can supply (it is
a 1kW system) under short circuit
conditions is 4A (one commissioning
tests is to measure the short circuit
current) hence under worst-case fault
conditions the fuse can never blow.
Will the replacement fuse deteriorate over time, given that it is in
a sealed box on a metal roof in full
northern sun (hence lots of heat)?
Assuming the fuse failure was due to
environmental factors, then gradual
deterioration of the fuse over time will
also reduce the efficiency of the system
(hence increased power bills), until
again in five years time it will get to
a point where the system shuts down
again – and I am too old to climb back
onto the roof!
Rob Howes,
Ellenbrook, WA.
Simple phones
still available
Your correspondents John Anwin
and Cliff King (Mailbag, May 2013)
complain that their smartphones have
too many options and sometimes get
activated while being pulled out of
their pockets. They want a phone
that only sends and receives calls and
text messages. The compact fold-over
Samsung GT-E1150i does exactly what
they want and costs just $39.
James Goding,
Carlton North, Vic.
Science of global
warming endorsed
In the Mailbag column of the May
2013 issue, you added a comment
following the letter by Peter Carter
entitled “Do wind farms really make
people sick?” You questioned the science of global warming. I beg to differ.
You don’t need a degree in science
to see why human activity is driving
global warming and climate change.
Consider how the fossil fuels were
originally created. Many millions
of years ago, there were many more
volcanoes than there are now. These
released huge quantities of carbon
dioxide (CO2) into the atmosphere.
The huge quantities of CO2 made the
planet several degrees warmer than
today and consequently, there was
no ice at the poles and much of the
land was covered by lush forest. There
was also massive growth of algae type
plants in warm, shallow seas.
These plants took in the CO2 and,
by photosynthesis, stored the carbon
siliconchip.com.au
and released oxygen into the air. As
the vegetation died, it fell to the forest
floor and as the algae died, they sank to
the bottom, thus creating thick layers
of organic material on the forest floor
and at the bottom of the shallow seas.
In time, the marine debris became
oil and gas. If you go to the open cut
brown coal mines in Victoria, you can
actually see the fossils of trees and
ferns etc in the coal.
The planet then went into a cooling
trend because of the carbon stored in
the plants and underground in the
coal, oil and gas. Ice again formed at
the poles and the planet resumed its
natural cycle of warming and cooling
until humans intervened. Since about
1850, the world population has been
rising rapidly and we have been cutting down forests thus reducing the
level of photosynthesis and removing
the fossil fuels from the ground and
largely burning them hence releasing
the stored carbon back into the atmosphere as CO2.
We are therefore returning the planet
to the situation that existed when the
MEANWELL
DC-DC CONVERTERS
fossil fuels were created originally.
There have always been, and always
will be, ripples in the graph of the average global temperature. However, the
pertinent issue is the long term trend,
not short term variations.
Len Cox,
Forest Hill, Vic.
Comment: once again, the “science” is
not nearly as simple or as “settled” as
many believe. It is true that volcanoes
originally released vast quantities of
CO2 which was then stored underground as coal, oil and gas which humans have heavily exploited since the
industrial revolution. But even if we
manage to burn all those resources, the
atmosphere will never again contain as
much CO2 because a huge proportion
of it is now locked up in limestone and
other calcium carbonate rock.
Second, just recently there has been
a paper published by Professor QingBin Lu in the International Journal of
Modern Physics B. The paper is at odds
with the belief that climate change is
driven by increasing concentrations
of CO2 in the atmosphere. Instead, it
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links global warming and the subsequent cooling of the atmosphere in the
last decade or so to the rise and fall
of CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons). It is
thought that declining CFCs will lead
to further atmospheric cooling for the
next 50 to 70 years while the carbon
dioxide level continues to climb.
In the meantime, it seems that solar
activity has much more effect on the atmosphere than previously recognised,
with the current very low solar cycle
possibly leading to protracted cooling.
No-one really knows what is going on.
Finally, it is by no means certain
that there are now less volcanoes than
in prehistoric times. There are vast
numbers of undersea volcanoes, many
of them active. They are still forming
new islands today.
For the wind turbine
infrasound sceptics
I hope that this letter goes some
way toward giving those who claim
that industrial wind turbines have
no effect on human health, pause for
thought. I am a retired Naval Electrical
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July 2013 5
Mailbag: continued
Patch leads are
critical in ADSL
I certainly sympathise with Kimble Dunster (Mailbag, June 2013,
pages 11-12). Such shenanigans with
some phone technicians (and contractors too) are infuriating, though
thankfully in a minority, although
that’s no comfort to the victim! Also,
overseas call centres, which Telstra
has regrettably decided to use, give
distinctly variable levels of “service”
and Telstra’s supplier seems to have
more than its fair share of people
who know nothing about technology.
However, I would like to clarify a
misunderstanding in Kimble’s letter,
although it turned out not to be the
reason for his problem, which he
correctly divined. He wonders “how
one metre of cable inside would
make any difference to the 3km of
30-year old wet copper with lots of
joins between the wall socket and
the exchange”.
The reason why the length of the
patch lead is generally critical is
Engineering Officer (RAN) who took
up beef cattle farming 24 years ago.
In 1997, my wife and, I along with all
our neighbours, signed up to host wind
turbines on our farms, both for the
added income and to “do our bit” to
help the ecology by producing “clean”
energy. We were told that we would
not even hear the turbines above the
background noise levels.
After the turbines were installed,
that quickly proved to be wrong. In
2004, the wind “farm” was operational
that such leads are a flat pair with
no twists (undoubtedly for reasons
of economy of manufacture) and are
thus very vulnerable to AC and RF
interference, which can certainly create problems with the RF of ADSL.
On the other hand, the “3km
of wet copper” will be in multiconductor twisted pair cable, where
the twists in each pair have the effect
of cancelling noise in individual
conductors. This was explained in
my article “Getting the Most from
ADSL” in the May 2012 issue.
Incidentally, there is no problem
with “wet copper” (or its age) per
se. The problem is certainly with
wet joints, if they have previously
been poorly made, which again is
regrettably often the case. We can
tolerate considerable noise in the
analog environment of POTS but
this can become highly troublesome
when we use the freak technology
of ADSL.
Alan Ford,
Salamander Bay, NSW.
with two 1.75MW turbines installed
on our property as part of a much larger
wind “farm”. Those turbines were 750
metres from the farmhouse, giving a
total of 10 turbines within a 2.5km
radius of our home, with many more
stretching away at roughly 400-metre
intervals. We found that the audible
blade noise was annoying, particularly when coupled with large diesel
centre-pivot irrigation plants next door
running day and night.
We owned a four-hectare (10-acre)
block that we had intended to retire
to 5km from the farmhouse and 2.5km
from the nearest turbines and so in
2005/6, we built and moved in years
earlier than intended. We thought we
would be free from the noise as the
wind very rarely blows from the direction of the turbines and in addition, we
cannot see them from the house due to
a small forest of stringy bark gum trees.
Virtually from the moment we
moved into the new house in 2006, I
began to develop symptoms such as
tinnitus, apparent heart arrhythmia,
bouts of depression, nocturnal panic
attacks, angina-like chest pains and
waking in the morning as though I had
not slept. My doctor could find nothing
wrong and ECG tests showed nothing
wrong with my heart. I began to think
that we had either built a “sick” house
or the ageing process had really set in.
By sheer chance, in March 2012 I
heard a farmer from Victoria claim that
since he had a wind-farm constructed
near his home he had been experiencing adverse health conditions which
he believed were caused by the wind
turbines. As he listed the symptoms
he had been experiencing, I noted that
they mirrored mine exactly.
My wife and I decided to get away
from the area for a day or two. Interestingly, the pulsing sensation
disappeared and we had a wonderful
sleep. When we returned home, the
symptoms reappeared. We repeated
the absence test for as short as overnight to as long as two months and
in every case, ALL of the symptoms
disappeared only to reappear shortly
after being back in our home.
In January this year, we had a highly
qualified acoustician carry out a three
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week logging of the (unweighted) sound pressure level
(SPL) inside our home in the frequency range 1Hz to
3kHz. Interestingly, the 10-minute averaging “screen shot”
showed a level of infrasound centred at approximately
4Hz, at between 50-70dB, significantly above the “noise
floor”. Is it a coincidence that there are four turbines at a
distance of 2.5km from our home which rotate at slightly
different rates, where one could expect at a blade pass
rate of one per second (three blade turbines) a frequency
of 4Hz? There are more turbines in the same direction a
further 1km distant.
I understand that audible sound attenuates at 6dB
per doubling of distance but infrasound only at 3dB per
doubling. If so, this would explain why people are being
affected when they cannot hear the audible noise of the
turbines. It may also explain why people in residences
within a few hundred metres of turbines are not affected
due to the elevation of the infrasound source, eg on a hill
top, whilst the houses are at the base of the hill. The infrasound may well pass over the residence and not at it.
I also do not believe that the infrasound we measured
is related to building self-resonance, as the centre of the
infrasound plot moved up and down in frequency as the
wind speed changed. We have no immediate neighbours
and disconnecting our electricity supply had no affect on
the noise plot. The income that the wind turbines generate
for us is nice but we would much rather have our health
back without having to become “wind turbine refugees”.
I cannot stress enough the debilitating effects of being
continually bombarded with the low-frequency and infrasound energy from the turbines nor the profound “silence”
inside my head when I sleep away from the turbines. I truly
envy those who do not have to sleep with them.
David Mortimer,
Millicent, SA.
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Nuclear radiation danger is low
Alex Danilov wrote about the nuclear option being unsafe (Mailbag, April 2013, page 4). We might ask him how
it compares with other electricity generation technologies
as to its safety.
That was answered by the 1991 Helsinki Report by many
world agencies, produced before the 1992 conference at
Rio de Janeiro, but green thinking went for “alternative”
technologies such as wind, biomass, solar, tidal and wave,
forgetting that oil, gas, coal-seam gas, shale gas, coal and
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July 2013 7
11/14/12 7
Mailbag: continued
No compensation for
obsolete wireless microphones
The article on Wireless Microphones by Ross Tester in the June
2013 issue of SILICON CHIP was
certainly an eye-opener for me, as
I had no idea this was happening.
Now I’m worried.
I run a small amateur theatre group
and over recent years have managed
to beg, buy or borrow 10 wireless
microphone sets which we use in our
productions. Unfortunately, these
all operate in the dreaded “Digital
Dividend” which means, if I read
your article correctly, I will soon
have 10 paper weights.
nuclear are just as “alternative” as
the others.
Danilov says that uranium and the
radioactive materials associated with
it cause harm. Can he explain why
dolphins and marine life manage to
survive in an environment which
has three tonnes of uranium, plus its
radioactive decay products, per cubic
kilometre of ocean water which also
contains cosmogenic radioisotopes?
Humans live on a land surface
which has, on average, about 600
times the radioactivity of the ocean.
We know that the world is exposed
to environmental radiation from terrestrial and cosmic sources; it’s a
wonder that some people claim that
There was nothing mentioned in
the article about any compensation
for non-profit groups such as ours
– we certainly don’t have the funds
to buy new “legal” wireless microphones. Has the Government made
any comment about earmarking
some of the money from the Digital
Dividend sale to compensating those
who have to (by Government decision) replace their equipment?
B. A,
North Ryde, NSW.
Ross Tester replies: Don’t hold your
breath! When the article was written,
the Government had not announced
the results of the Digital Dividend
it is so dangerous. If it was so dangerous, life would not exist. Uranium and
its “wastes” have always been part of
our environment. My body contains
uranium and other radioisotopes from
the natural environment.
Civil nuclear electricity has been
produced since 1956. Waste from nuclear electricity has been accumulating
since then. If the waste is so terrible
and incapable of being handled safely,
Danilov needs to provide some health
data rather than simply stating that
there is no safe method of storing it.
The nuclear industry is tightly regulated and there is a comprehensive collation of nuclear or radiation incidents
and accidents available for many years
auction but has since done so – almost two billion dollars straight into
consolidated revenue, with more to
come. And while there were several
submissions from non-profit groups
like yours asking that compensation
be considered, the Government has
been strangely silent.
A “back of the envelope” calculation suggests that there will be
about $25 million worth of wireless
microphones scrapped. We agree,
it’s not too much to ask that about
1% of their windfall auction profit
be set aside for compensation for
groups such as yours . . . and mine
(my surf club has three such wireless
mics, one of which was purchased in
late 2012, before we became aware
of the problem).
in documents pre-dating the internet.
I know because I handled radioactive
materials from 1970 until 1992.
Because of the great fear induced
about radioactivity (remember the
mutant monster fly and other beast
movies, not to mention The China
Syndrome, starring Jane Fonda), gov
ernments spent big on measuring
natural background radioactivity and
radiation from nuclear power operation.
The Helsinki Report did so more
than 20 years ago. UNSCEAR has
provided an excellent summary of
radiation from the natural background
and a host of industries, none of which
is radiation-free. Life has never been
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radiation-free and its time that people
like Danilov understood that simple
fact.
As a radiation worker I had my radiation dose monitored and recorded by
law but nobody recorded the radiation
doses I received from my extensive air
travel or my diagnostic X-rays and CAT
scans which have helped me to travel
well towards my OBE (over bloody
eighty) next year.
My mother was diagnosed with a
rare blood cancer and the only therapy
which worked was an injection of
radioactive phosphorus-32. She had
five trips to Australia, nine doses of
radiation in 30 years and she died aged
94, after a very rich life.
If Danilov thinks that any dose of
radiation is harmful I’d advise him
not to live in countries which have
higher natural background radiation
than Australia. That includes all the
countries in the European Union. He
should avoid air travel which incurs
exposure to cosmic radiation. Medical
X-rays and CAT scans give us radiation
doses far in excess of what we would
get from nuclear electricity generation.
Danilov needs to look at the facts
of natural radioactivity and anthropogenic releases into the environment before blanket condemnation of
nuclear electricity.
I am a member of The Australian
Nuclear Association and a founding
member of the Australian Nuclear
Forum. The latter was concerned about
promoting public information and
education – see http://oznucforum.
customer.netspace.net.au/
Jim Brough,
Stanwell Park, NSW.
Ignorance about safety
of nuclear power
Alex Danilov (“Nuclear option is
unsafe”) is either channelling antinuclear propaganda or is ignorant of
the facts about nuclear safety or both.
The accidents at Three Mile Island,
Chernobyl and Fukushima are not
just “three of the best known” nuclear
disasters. They were the only reactor
accidents in the 60-year history of
commercial nuclear power generation
which had the potential to cause public health effects from radiation. Even
when these accidents are included
in the record, experience has shown
siliconchip.com.au
that nuclear power is one of the safest industries in which to work. The
Chernobyl disaster has been the only
accident in a commercial power reactor in which a worker has died from
radiation exposure.
At Three Mile Island, no-one – either work force or public – was actually harmed by radiation but there
were some casualties in road accidents
due to the panic evacuation. There
were also significant health effects
from air pollution due to the increased
operation of coal-fired power stations
to replace the lost generation of electricity.
At Chernobyl, 31 workers died – 28
of them due to radiation exposure.
About 20 other workers have since
died from illnesses that are considered
likely to have been caused or aggravated by radiation. The only clearly
discernible effect of radiation on public health has been an increase in the
incidence of thyroid cancer, mainly
amongst children living close to the
reactor. The exact number of cases is
a matter of controversy but is likely to
be several thousand. Thyroid cancer
is treatable but is typically 5% fatal.
Thyroid cancer is a largely avoidable
consequence of a reactor accident if
stable iodine is administered immediately to block the uptake of radioactive
iodine isotopes into thyroids. This was
not done at Chernobyl but appears to
have been successfully implemented
at Fukushima.
No-one has died due to radiation
exposure from the damaged reactors
at Fukushima and no member of the
public is likely to die from radiation
exposure. As at Chernobyl, however,
there have been major physical and
psychological health problems due
to the evacuation and to unwarranted
and exaggerated fears of radiation.
Stigma and depression have been
added to fear, leading to suicides.
There have been numerous deaths of
elderly people, in particular, who have
been ripped out of their homes, nursing homes and hospitals, and moved
from place to place.
Some workers at the Fukushima
Daiichi nuclear power station received significant doses of radiation.
The exact size of the delayed health
risk to workers is again a matter of
controversy: probably more than 10
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July 2013 9
Mailbag: continued
AM broadcast quality
not what it used to be
As a retired engineer I’d like to
respond to Bram Taylor’s letter in
the April 2013 issue, specifically
with reference to his interest in wide
band AM radio reception.
In the days when I was associated
with AM broadcasting, most Chief
Engineers were very conscious of
their station’s “sound” and many
maintained a transmitted audio
bandwidth in excess of 10kHz. Nowadays, the ACMA recommendation
is that the audio frequency response
of an AM transmitter should be “...
nominally flat over the range of 50
Hz to 7 kHz.” (Technical Planning
Guidelines 2007).
Regardless of the upper limit of
the transmitted audio bandwidth,
the tragedy is that the vast majority
of AM receivers favoured selectivity
and sensitivity at the expense of an
accurate, low distortion recovery of
the transmitted audio. With a few
marvellous exceptions – such as
the AWA Orthofidelity AM3 tuner
and possibly more than 100 of them
have incurred an average 2% risk of
eventually dying from cancer. This
is in addition to the normal average
cancer fatality risk of about 25% for
people who have not been accidentally
exposed to radiation.
The nuclear plants at Chernobyl and
Fukushima had major shortcomings in
design that were recognised before the
accidents occurred. Engineers learn
from experience (and, hopefully, the
directors of power companies too) and
plants that would be built in Australia
today would be much safer. Unlike
the Chernobyl reactor, they would
have containments and they would be
designed to counter potential flooding.
Danilov’s claim that these reactor
accidents “resulted in thousands of
deaths (and more to come)” can only
be based on the application (misapplication) of the linear no-threshold
(LNT) model of risk estimation. This
LNT model has itself caused many
people to believe, mistakenly, that
there is no safe dose of radiation. If
10 Silicon Chip
from the early 1970s, if you wanted
to recover the full transmitted AM
bandwidth with minimum interference, you needed to live fairly close
to the transmitter and be prepared
to “roll your own.”
While the local electronics magazines often featured high-performance AM tuners, it was the advent
of AM stereo in the mid-1980s which
saw the arrival of commercial wideband AM tuners with selectable IF
bandwidths and 9kHz whistle filters.
Later, as in the high-end American
Fanfare FTA-100, low distortion
synchronous demodulators were
used. Models appeared (all too
briefly) from Sony, JBL, Carver etc
but the ensuing total lack of industry
support for AM stereo eventually
contributed to its demise.
As an aside, I still have a working
Sony JX-230A AM stereo tuner, and
up until the advent of DAB+ broadcasting, even AM Mono reception
(especially on Radio National and
our local AM music station Magic
1278) sounded very good.
that were true, we would not be here
because we are all exposed to natural
background radiation.
The LNT model is recommended
by the International Commission on
Radiological Protection (ICRP) for
use in the optimisation of radiation
protection practices. The ICRP specifically states that it should not be used
for estimating numbers of casualties
from exposures of many people to
small doses.
Danilov may not be aware that the
United Nations Scientific Committee
on the Effects of Atomic Radiation
(UNSCEAR) has recently recommended that the LNT model should
not be applied at all to doses up to
the levels of natural background radiation. (Or perhaps he is “in denial”
about this development.) It has been
estimated that few if any members of
the public at Fukushima would have
been likely to have incurred doses
greater than 30mSv in a year from the
reactor accident even if there had been
no evacuation. Natural background
While all radio stations correct
ed(!) their audio baseband prior to
transmission by devices such as
Optimod Signal Processors, since
the introduction of DAB+ there’s no
doubt in my mind that modern engineers have been obliged to re-tweak
their audio basebands. This is possibly because they are trying to cram
too many programs into their slice of
digital bandwidth – handling multiple program data streams requires
low data bit rates. At the typical bit
rate of 32-48kb/s, the resulting sound
quality is not good.
This has resulted in what I would
describe as a “bright and flat” sound
with little real audio top end. In fact,
a present-day comparison for the
same program received via AM, and
then listening via DAB+, reveals (to
me, anyway) that the DAB+ sound
is inferior.
Perhaps SILICON CHIP could confirm my suspicions by having a chat
to some current practising AM transmitter engineers? And while you’re
at it, why not suggest that they crank
up their data bit rates!
Norman Hughes,
Flinders, Vic.
levels range around the world up to
more than 30mSv per year without
causing any discernible harm.
Danilov’s claim of a “huge increase
in cancer rates among all uranium mine
workers and those people living within
a large radius of an existing nuclear
power station” is completely without
foundation. Even at Chernobyl, after
the reactor accident in 1986, the second
part of this statement was not true.
For uranium mine workers, there
was a discernible increase in incidences of lung cancer from inhalation
of radon many years ago, before this
risk was properly recognised. Appropriate controls are now in place and
the greatest risk – from mining – to the
lungs of the workers is silicosis, as it is
for many other mine workers. To put
this into perspective, smoking causes a
much greater risk for those who smoke.
A study covering almost 700,000 US
shipyard workers, carried out between
1980 and 1988, showed that mortality rates from all causes and from all
cancers were lower for the workers on
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip Magazine July 2013
nuclear powered warships than for those doing identical
work on conventional warships. A much quoted study of
land-based nuclear industry workers, published by the
International Agency for Research on Cancer in 2005,
purported to show a statistically significant increase in
the risk of mortality from all cancers excluding leukemia in relation to radiation exposure. A rarely quoted
re-analysis of the data subsequently showed that there
was no such effect.
Danilov’s other arguments are also groundless or misleading, viz: the problem of radioactive waste disposal
is political not technical. Technologies exist for safe
disposal and Australia has some of the best sites in the
world for this purpose. All industries for generating
electricity have environmental impacts, including mining for fuel and raw materials and pollution. The nature
of these impacts differ from one industry to another but
they are minimal for nuclear power.
A nuclear power station is expensive to build and takes
longer to build than some other types of power station
but it is cheap to operate. In the long term, nuclear power
is one of the cheapest ways to generate electricity with
minimal emissions of greenhouse gases. Where is the
evidence that nuclear power stations “kill millions of
fish and damage the marine environment” compared with
other thermal power stations using sea-water cooling?
In case Danilov wants to question my areas of expertise,
I am a Fellow of the Australasian Radiation Protection
Society and a Fellow of the Institution of Engineers
Australia. I advocate the use of nuclear power because
I have studied the matter, and I consider it to be safe,
economically sustainable and the most environmentally
friendly way to generate most of the electricity that the
world needs.
Dr Don Higson,
Paddington, NSW.
Safety of nuclear power
In view of Alex Danilov’s letter on the supposed dangers of nuclear power, here are a number of recent stories
that put the opposite case. Sure, these my be regarded as
pro-nuclear propaganda but the claims cannot be ignored.
First is the study by James Hansen and Pushker Kharecha, entitled “Life-saving case for Nuclear”. See www.
world-nuclear-news.org/EE_Life_saving_case_for_nuclear_0304131.html
James Hansen is an unlikely “promoter” of nuclear
power. One of the things unstated in the article is that,
now that both Germany and Japan have shut down their
nuclear fleet, what will be the increase in death rates that
might be attributable to the inevitable increased use of
fossil fuels?
The second is a report on the likely long-term effects
of the Fukushima disaster. Answer: with simple precautions, not much – www.world-nuclear-news.org/
EE_Life_saving_case_for_nuclear_0304131.html
Thirdly, here is a report on the excellence of the safety
culture in the US nuclear industry – www.world-nuclearnews.org/RS-US_nuclear_safety_goes_from_strength_
to_strength-1204137.html
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The fourth one is a reality check. Nations around the
world, particularly in Asia are voting in favour of nuclear
power. See: www.world-nuclear-news.org/NP-Positive_
outlook_for_nuclear_energy-1004131.html
Just one more: this is one example of what the US nuclear
industry has been doing, quite legitimately since Jimmy
Carter’s ban on new nuclear plants. They have been upgrading and uprating existing reactors. I saw recently that the
US has effectively installed some 6800MW of new nuclear
power during those years simply by upgrading existing
reactors. That’s a figure not to be sneezed at. In the pipeline
there are requests of the US NRC for a similarly-sized additional amount. That’s without building a single new reactor.
And unlike fickle wind power, that’s all going to service
the all-important base load requirement. Two related links
are:
world-nuclear-news.org/C-Uprates_complete_at_Florida_
plants-2204137.html
www.nrc.gov/reactors/operating/licensing/power-uprates/
status-power-apps.html
Meanwhile, construction on the first new reactor in the
US for 30 years has been commenced. See: www.worldnuclear-news.org/NN-AP1000_construction_underway_
at_Summer-1203134.html
Paul Miskelly,
SC
Mittagong, NSW.
July 2013 11
The assembly lines in the Quantity
Production Works, Ashfield, NSW
during WW2. Domestic radio
production was heavily limited
during the war years in favour of
military production.
100 Years
of AWA
By KEVIN POULTER
Australia’s biggest & best electronics company
It’s now 100 years since the formation of Amalgamated Wireless
Australasia Ltd (AWA), the most significant and important radio
company ever to exist in Australia. Here’s a quick look at those
early years.
AWA WAS FOUNDED in 1913 by
Ernest Thomas (E. T.) Fisk, later known
as Sir Ernest Fisk. Fisk’s career began
earlier in England as a humble newspaper seller on a railway station in Middlesex. He subsequently graduated in
engineering in the works of Frederick
Walton, then joined the British Post
Office as a wireless telegraphist.
It’s interesting to note that Fisk’s
early drive, determination and business directions were similar to Thomas
Edison’s. Edison also started out by
selling newspapers (on a train) before
going on to work in telegraphy.
Radio-telegraphy was introduced
into England by Marconi in 1896. At
12 Silicon Chip
that time, it was accepted that spark
transmitters broadcast over such a
wide spectrum that only one radio
channel was possible world-wide!
Marconi’s work inspired Fisk to join
the Marconi training school in 1906,
learning Morse and wireless telegraphy, then qualifying as a radio engineer and operator. In 1909, he went to
work for American Marconi, initially
demonstrating wireless to Newfoundland sealers and on the St Lawrence
River. This was then followed by a stint
at Marconi’s headquarters in London.
Wireless in Australia
Wireless communication was of-
ficially recognised by the Australian Commonwealth Government in
the Wireless Telegraph Act of 1905.
Initially, wireless telegraphy was only
used on warships. Then, in 1906, C. P.
Bartholomew erected an experimental station at Mosman near Sydney,
establishing communications using
equipment he built himself.
The growing potential of wireless in Australia soon attracted the
Marconi Organisation’s interest. As
a result, Fisk was briefly despatched
to Australia in 1910 to demonstrate
Marconi apparatus. At about the same
time, the first association of “Wireless
Experimenters in the British Empire”
siliconchip.com.au
The AWA logo
style was little
changed over
the years.
Sir Ernest Fisk with early “wireless”
equipment. Fisk founded AWA in
1913.
The valve radios made by AWA and other manufacturers kept
an army of servicemen clothed and fed. This Manly-based
Woodward’s Radio Service van circa 1946 had a rear canopy
that was custom-built to resemble a console radio.
was established in Sydney as “The
Wireless Institute of NSW”. The
founder, George A. Taylor, was also
involved in the development of wireless telegraphy, eg, between the front
and the rear of a train and between
trains running at full speed.
It’s fair to say that the few transmissions at that time were mainly by
amateur enthusiasts.
The Federal Government, acting
on a report from Admiral Henderson,
subsequently invited tenders for the
construction of a wireless telegraph
station in Sydney and another in
Perth – each to have a daylight range
of 2000km. Fisk returned to Australia
in 1911 to again promote the Marconi
equipment but unfortunately for his
company, a contract was subsequently
signed with the lowest tenderer, Gesellschaft fur drahtlose Telegraphie
System (Telefunken) of Berlin, for
the construction of these stations.
Engineers and apparatus were shipped
from Germany and the stations were
erected during 1912 and 1913, one at
Pennant Hills in Sydney and the other
at Applecross near Fremantle.
When the SS Titanic sank in 1912,
shipping companies quickly realised
that “wireless” had the potential to
avert similar disasters. This generated
renewed interest in further installations and during 1913 and 1914,
a number of smaller stations were
erected around the Australian coast
at Melbourne, Hobart, Mt Gambier,
A selection of 1930s AWA radios in bakelite cases: at left is a C87 AWA Fisk Radiolette circa 1932, while at centre are
two Fisk Radiolette Empire State radios from the mid 1930s. The set at right is a Radiola R52 Big Brother circa 1938.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 13
AWA at war: testing transportable transmitters and power units for military
ground stations during 1943.
Above: valve-manufacturing during
the 1920s. AWA manufactured many
thousands of pre-war domestic radios.
Above: record cuttting lathes at AWA’s Ashfield plant in January 1947.
Port Adelaide, Esperance, Geraldton,
Roebourne, Wyndham, Port Darwin,
Thursday Island, Port Moresby, Townsville, Cooktown and Brisbane.
AWA formed
A technician at an AWA-equipped transmitting station in the 1920s.
14 Silicon Chip
Based on this expanded interest,
Amalgamated Wireless (Australasia)
Ltd was formed in 1913 with an injection of 140,000 pounds of Australian
and English capital. Ernest Fisk was a
foundation director and was also the
General and Technical Manager. He
was subsequently appointed as AWA’s
Managing Director in 1916.
siliconchip.com.au
Below: assembling AWA Fisk Radiolette “fret and foot” radios, circa 1936.
Photograph by Max Dupain.
Radiotron Valves being made at AWA’s Ashfield plant during 1939. AWA made
vast numbers of valves, both for their own radios and for many other radio (and
later TV) manufacturers. Photo: Max Dupain.
Below: a technician works
on AWA’s first prototype
TV receiver. AWA was
one of Australia’s biggest
manufacturers of TV sets
during the late 1950s and
early 1960s.
Following its launch, AWA immed
iately purchased existing and future
patent rights for the Marconi and
Telefunken systems. During WW1
(1914-18), AWA developed and manufactured equipment for the Australian
mercantile marine and for British vessels built in Japan and China for the
British Ministry of Shipping.
The company was also involved
in intercepting wireless messages
from enemy ships in the Pacific and
eventually from European stations in
Germany, Italy, France and England.
For example, wireless signals from
siliconchip.com.au
Germany were intercepted in 1917
at the Naval Wireless Station in Applecross, WA. These intercepts often
provided valuable intelligence.
England to Australia
In 1918, just before the end of the
war, AWA received a series of test messages from the Marconi Trans-Atlantic
Station at Carnarvon in Wales, UK.
These experiments were completed on
September 22, 1918, when the first direct wireless message from England to
Australia was received at Wahroonga
near Sydney.
Eleven months later, on August 13,
1919, the first public demonstration
of wireless telegraphy occurred in the
Royal Society’s building in Sydney.
Another demonstration was made on
October 13, 1920 in the Queens Hall
of the Federal Parliament House in
Melbourne.
The Government took years to decide what to do with wireless. From
1905-1915, the administration of the
Wireless Telegraph Act was in the
hands of the Federal Postmaster-General. Then, in 1915, it was transferred
to the Minister for the Navy before beJuly 2013 15
Above: the 1947 AWA Radiola 510M. This 5-valve dual-wave set was housed in
a bakelite cabinet and was available in ivory, jade green and walnut.
Released in December 1957, AWA’s
Radiola Transistor 7 was the first
completely Australian-made trans
istor radio. It featured a 7x5-inch
loudspeaker and had a claimed
battery life of 300 hours. Earlier
transistor radios in Australia were
made using sub-assemblies and parts
from overseas or were fully imported.
ing returned to the Postmaster-General
in 1920.
Radio broadcasting
Built in York St, Sydney, by AWA as its head office in 1939, Wireless House with
its 48.5-metre steel tower was the tallest building in Sydney until the 1960s.
16 Silicon Chip
With the advent of broadcasting
in 1923, a large number of Marconi
School graduates entered the field of
radio, occupying positions as service
mechanics, as technicians at broadcasting stations and in sales. George
Taylor continued to play a leading
role. On May 24, 1923, he chaired a
conference of all parties interested in
wireless broadcasting in Melbourne.
A provisional scheme was adopted involving the use of sealed sets, whereby
listeners could only hear the one station that their set was tuned to.
After a trial, this (rather silly) idea
was discarded, as people clearly
wanted a choice of radio stations.
The scheme finally adopted was
designed to give full freedom in the
establishment and running of broadsiliconchip.com.au
An advert for AWA’s portable C25
Radiola Super (Sports Model).
This 6-valve superhet receiver
was first manufactured in 1925.
The AWA C54 console – a 6-valve battery-powered
TRF receiver from 1929. Photo: Leith Tebbit.
casting services, while avoiding the
evident problems that had arisen with
American and English broadcasting.
This included concessions by the
Government to persons or firms in
order to establish broadcasting on a
competitive basis, licensing of private
individuals to transmit for experimental purposes, and allowing others to
use wireless apparatus for receiving
any services. It also involved licensing
manufacturers and traders to deal in
“wireless apparatus” for broadcasting
purposes.
In 1926, Fisk wrote: “Private Wireless Stations are now allowed under
licence from the Postmaster-General,
but all public wireless communication
in and from Australia is controlled by a
company in which the Federal Govern-
ment appoints a majority of Directors
and holds a majority of the shares.
“The Amalgamated Wireless Ltd
must by the terms of the agreement
under which it exists remain a British
concern, not connected with any trust
or combine. It will erect and operate (a)
Main Power Stations for direct service
with the United Kingdom, (b) Feeder
Stations connecting the main stations
with the Federal and State capitals, (c)
Coastal Stations, where required, to
maintain communication with vessels
off the coast, and (d) certain stations in
Papua and the neighbouring Islands.
“It will also arrange the provision
of stations in the United Kingdom and
Canada capable of maintaining direct
communication with Australia. The
rates will be, roughly speaking, 2/3
of those charged for cable messages.
Existing Commonwealth Stations are
taken over”.
In 1927, a “beam” service between
Australia and Britain was inaugurated,
undercutting the cable companies.
Then in 1928, the Australia-Canada
service began, followed in 1930 by
an Empire radio-telephone service. In
1931, the great radio pioneer, Marconi,
was made godfather to Fisk’s fourth
son, David Sarnoff Marconi Fisk.
Fisk was appointed Chairman of
AWA in 1932, yet another major
achievement for a one-time newspaper
seller. This was also the year that AWA
Manufactured in 1947, AWA’s up-market Radiola 611T
7-band receiver was housed in a timber cabinet & tuned
from 540kHz to 223MHz.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 17
The bank of transmitting valves at the Marconi Wireless Station, Carnarvon
Wales, used for direct communication with Australia.
became the first company in Australia
to introduce a bakelite cabinet radio,
the Radiolette C87 Cathedral and GE
40 (AGE) version.
Fisk knighted
Knighted in the Coronation honours
of 1937, the now proudly-Australian
Fisk joined many societies and clubs
and a number of influential boards but
still found the time and energy to continue promoting the wireless industry.
In the early 1940s, Fisk envisioned a
boundless future for wireless. He said
that it even raised hopes for an international language and that he saw the
possibility of using it to communicate
with the dead (he had always been
interested in spiritualism)!
By 1944, AWA had 6000 employees
and a turnover exceeding four million
pounds, making it one of Australia’s
most powerful organisations. That
same year, Fisk stepped down from
AWA to become Managing Director
and Chief Executive of the Electrical
and Musical Industries (HMV) group
in London. He subsequently returned
to Sydney in 1952, working as a consultant in commerce, industry and
technology.
Growth & turmoil
During the 1920s and 1930s, AWA
made virtually everything in-house,
including screws, resistors and foil
capacitors but after WW2, the latter
were mostly sourced from IRC and
Ducon. AWA’s in-house manufacturing supplied a massive range of parts
for Radiola domestic radios, transmitters, instruments and equipment. The
company also became the industry
supplier for valves of all types, TV pic-
AWA manufactured a wide range of test equipment, both for internal use and
the general market. This solid-state audio oscillator covered from 10Hz-30kHz.
Photo: Graham Parslow.
18 Silicon Chip
ture tubes, image orthicons for video
cameras, semiconductors, quartz crys
tals, integrated circuits (ICs), tuning
gangs, press-button tuners for radios
(especially car radios), TV turret tuners, all types of switches, vibrators,
emergency lighting components,
transformers (power, audio & isolation
etc), EHT transformers and deflection
coils for TV sets, ballasts, coil sets for
radios (IF, RF, oscillator, aerial and
tuning coils) and loudspeakers of all
shapes and sizes.
AWA also had some of the largest
specialised injection moulding presses
in Australia. Bakelite moulding was a
speciality and included control knobs
and cabinets for radios, telephone
handsets and various parts for Sunbeam and Hotpoint appliances. In addition, their machine-shop produced
all sorts of metalwork, including radio
chassis, component parts for tuners,
switches and lighting, brackets and
special screws and nuts that were
unique to AWA.
Those products intended for use by
AWA in-house were branded “AWA”,
while those supplied to other manufacturers were generally sold under the
“MSP” label (Manufacturers Special
Products), eg, loudspeakers. In the
year before the Whitlam Government
removed tariffs in the 1970s, AWA
manufactured approximately 975,000
loudspeakers.
Along with domestic radio and TV
manufacture, AWA continued to grow
their product range in the 1950s and
siliconchip.com.au
An AWA radio-equipped
ambulance circa 1946. The
telephone-style handpiece
was housed in the glovebox.
beyond, with devices such as 2-way
radios, transistors, ICs, telephones,
avionics and test gear. Sir Ernest Fisk
had guided AWA though a minefield of
political and commercial challenges,
to be one of the most successful Australian companies ever.
It was often said that because AWA
made all parts in-house, they were
exposed to a constant drain on profit
and capital. It was an approach that
required continuous reinvestment
in design, equipment, maintenance,
service and more.
The winding back of tariffs in the
1970s eventually ended domestic
radio and TV manufacture and AWA
subsequently experienced a period of
turmoil in 1987 when it reported a $49
million foreign exchange loss due to
unauthorised trading. This was then
followed by years of legal wrangling
between the auditors (for failing to
identify the trading) and the company.
In May 2010, the employee at the
centre of the foreign exchange
losses, Andrew Koval, was extradited from the United States
to face criminal charges. He had
previously defended a civil suit
in relation to the matter and was
eventually given a bond.
In 1987, the company was renamed AWA Limited and in 1988
sold its telephone manufacturing and related businesses and
closed its main manufacturing
facility, Radio Electric Works, at
Ashfield. A year later, AWA Computer
Support Services was established as an
independent business unit. AWA also
established AWASCo Pty Ltd during
the 1980s. This was a joint venture
with Serco Group of the UK and eventually Serco purchased AWA’s share to
form Serco Australia.
In the early 1990s, unable to compete with lower-cost imports, AWA
exited the field of domestic products
and consumer electronics to focus on
industrial technology. The company
subsequently grew its export business to over $90 million per annum
by selling its infrastructure systems
(traffic control, air navigation and
digital microwave telecommunications equipment) to countries such
as China, Indonesia, The Philippines
and Argentina.
In addition, AWA successfully
launched a Keno on-line game into
over 800 registered clubs in NSW and
A No.19 transceiver made by AWA during WW2 for
armoured vehicles, including tanks.
siliconchip.com.au
AWA made telephones for many
years. This 1976 ice-blue AWA 800
wall phone recently sold for $366.
Victoria (the world’s largest on-line
game). It also continued to develop
sophisticated technology for the Australian Defence Force.
In 1991, AWA acquired Smorgon
Technologies, a world leader in
totalisator systems. The company
subsequently developed and operated
state-of-art wagering systems that were
installed around the world.
The break-up and sale of various
AWA divisions in the period from
1994-97 was driven by a decision to
maximise the return to shareholders.
In 2001, AWA was acquired by Jupiters
Limited which itself was soon merged
with Tabcorp. Then in 2004, the company was spun off and once again
became an independent company.
In 2006, AWA acquired Telefix Sales
Pty Ltd, which had been servicing
home entertainment products since
early 1960. Today, AWA employs close
to 300 staff, and utilises 700 agents
in regional Australia to manage its
service obligations to many blue-chip
companies. This includes service for:
(1) network hardware and ancillary
equipment;
(2) servers, desktop PCs, laptops, displays, printers and peripherals;
(3) specialist equipment such as
EFTPOS machines, lottery terminals,
digital photo kiosks, health-related
technologies and library systems;
(4) IP telecommunications and wireless communications; and
(5) Home entertainment equipment
and home networks.
References: John McIlwaine, AWA
Veterans’ Archives plus others listed
SC
at www.aaa1.biz/sc
July 2013 19
Cheap
and
cheerful
Smart TV
Conversion
By
Julian James
Why buy a smart TV when you can do this simple work-around with your
existing TV. You could end up with a smarter TV than a smart TV!
I
recently converted my non-smart TV (a Panasonic TX32LXD70A) to a smart TV using a Raspberry Pi with
the XBMC program (www.XMBC.org).
This worked OK but the Catch-Up TV sites I wanted to
watch (www.freeview.com.au/tvguide/CatchUp.aspx) have
a more limited choice for Linux and Apple-based computers
than their Windows counterparts. They also cannot support a
proxy server to enable overseas TV channels to be streamed.
This meant investing in a PC for the purpose. As I wanted
a small set-top-box style of computer, I chose the Acer Veriton 1000 for its small size, measuring only 250mm high x
60mm wide and 200mm deep and having a separate “brick
type” power supply which can be easily hidden.
While it was being offered for sale by various ebay suppliers, I found one at Mission Australia’s Bellambi (NSW)
store, which has a good IT department and has “pre-loved”
computer packages from $100 upward.
So I bought an Acer Veriton 1000 1.8GHz small-formfactor computer from them for $100 and connected this to
Last issue, where Leo Simpson looked at using a
large-screen smart TV as a computer monitor, he came
to the conclusion that smart TVs weren’t all that smart!
In fact, he commented “you quickly come to the
conclusion that a good laptop or desktop PC is far
superior (to a smart TV) in virtually every aspect”.
This article, then, is very timely: it shows you how
to get the best of both worlds – the power of the computer and the size/clarity/convenience of a large-screen
modern TV set.
20 Silicon Chip
my TV via the PC and the TV’s VGA sockets.
The audio was connected from the audio output on the
computer to the “Audio Input” on the TV, using a 3.5mm
stereo jack to 2x RCA connector lead.
This worked but the streaming program it displayed as
a letterbox view, which
made the actors somewhat squat and fat.
The answer was to
use the DVI-D output
from the computer and
connect to the TV with a
DVI-D to HDMI converter (costing less than $3
post free from Ausutek
on ebay) and an HDMI
cable.
On my Panasonic TV
there are two HDMI inputs. The first (HDMI1)
The DVI-D output on
the PC (black plug at
top) connects to the
HDMI input on the TV
set via a (cheap!) DVI-D
to HDMI converter and
HDMI cable. The audio
out socket could be
used to connect to a hifi
amplifier.
siliconchip.com.au
IIntroducing
ntroducing
tthe
he n
new
ew
D
DTX
TX S
Series
eries
o
hip-like
off c
chip-like
modules
modules
First member in the new DTX series of chip-like embedded
modules with variety of functions.
The BBC has “iPlayer” – similar to Australia’s “iView”
(seen at left). The only problem is that it checks your IP
address and if you’re not recognised as being in the UK,
will only let you listen to radio programs. That is, unless
you use a Proxy Server to fool it!
will allow the injection of audio via the “Audio In” connections, the same used when using the PC VGA input.
If your TV does not have this facility then a connection
to a stereo system or a pair of computer speakers would
also work.
Using the HDMI connection has the advantage of being
able to select an aspect ratio that shows the programs at
full screen.
Full system on module in an industry standard package for easy
implementation in devices where space is a premium and time to
market an important factor.
In-System Embedded Development (ISED) concept, allowing
software development directly onto the target hardware without
the need of external development tools such as compiler,
debugger/programmer, cables, etc.
The whole DTX series is designed with the consideration for
low-power applications. It is also “everyone for themselves”
type, where every module has its own power converter thus
significantly increasing the overall system reliability.
For more information: contacts<at>dimitech.com
435-437 Nepean Hwy, Frankston VIC 3199
Phone: (03) 90168919
Fax: (03) 99232709
Just what is a “Smart TV”?
It’s one of the buzz-words of the decade. But what is a “Smart TV”
and how does that differ from the TV you’ve enjoyed for decades
(well, since 1956 in Australia!)?
In as simple a definition as possible, a Smart TV is a TV set
with an inbuilt computer, which enables it to access a variety of
services that a “normal” TV cannot. Obviously all that an older TV
is capable of displaying is programming it receives either off-air
via its antenna, or is fed to it from some form of video player/
recorder or, for example, from a Pay-TV decoder.
It’s that last item, the Pay-TV decoder, that allows a standard
TV (for want of a better description) to behave, at least to some
extent, like a Smart TV, because it enables you to time-shift, slow
down and speed up action, and so on.
But a “real” Smart TV can do much more than this. Because
it is connected to the internet, via a wired (Ethernet) connection
or perhaps a wireless link, the Smart TV can interactively display
just about anything that you can get from or do with the ’net.
That includes watching “streamed” video from a huge variety of
sources – whether that be downloaded movies, brief snippets
such as you find onYouTube, even displaying web pages and so
on. You can even use a Smart TV as your main audio device as
well, playing music (downloaded or on your hard drive), running
internet radio stations etc. It can run that other buzz-word of the
moment, “apps” (or applications).
And let’s not forget some of the most amazing games you’ll
ever see/play! All this with remote control.
We mentioned the word “interactive” a moment ago because a
Smart TV, with its inbuilt computer, becomes an input device as
siliconchip.com.au
well as a display device.
With appropriate hardware connected (eg, a mouse, keyboard,
etc – although even these aren’t strictly necessary as they can be
simulated on screen) you can do nearly as much as you can with a
typical computer and monitor– even such mundane tasks as word
processing and emailing!
Smart TVs are becoming more “the norm” these days and are
taking their place as centres of entertainment in the home – with
capabilities way beyond what the old square box in the corner
could ever do!
Do you need to upgrade to a Smart TV?
Not if all you want to do is watch TV programs – free-to-air via
the antenna, or cable if you have it. Your old TV will continue to do
this more than adequately (assuming, of course, it’s digital-ready
or you have purchased a digital set-top-box).
Can you upgrade an existing TV?
The answer is yes, with reservations – after all, that is what this
article is all about. But if you want to take advantage of more of the
whizz-bang features of Smart TV, you’re eaither going to have to
load more software into the PC and connect it as described here,
or another route is to obtain a “media centre” (they’re quite cheap
these days) and use that.
You could also buy a set-top-box which has Smart TV capability
and, quite likely, PVR (personal video recorder) facilities as well.
You’ll almost certainly need a much more capable remote control
but most set-top-boxes come with these anyway.
July 2013 21
Here’s the “ExpatShield” proxy server – one of the most
popular and very easy to use. But don’t forget to log out if
you want to watch Australian programs, because they will
think you’re outside Australia and stop you watching, just
like iPlayer does!
There are various zoom views but I chose the “Just” option as this reduced the cropping of the picture.
I made the toolbar at the bottom of the screen taller so it
showed the “Start” and “Minimised” Screen tabs, for easier
operation. These disappear during streaming.
I used the 32-bit (highest) colour quality and 1280x720
pixel screen resolutions.
These refurbished computers come with Windows XP,
free virus and other programs. As I am only going to use
this for streaming catch-up TV and YouTube, I removed
all the shortcuts to the programs that I would not be using
and then created shortcuts to ABC, SBS, Channel 7 etc.
So now it’s just a matter of selecting the required channel
and program and off you go.
Overseas programs
If an overseas channel is required then it must be accessed
via a proxy server and a Google search is required to find
one in the chosen country. Some of these may charge a
Altronics’ “Sunwave” Wireless Remote Control
(Cat A1004) is two-faced! On one side is the
full range of “normal” remote control buttons –
volume, channel, numbers, start, stop, fast
forward and reverse, shuttle control, etc,
while on the reverse side is a small keyboard
(in somewhat QWERTY format), a touchpadtype “mouse” plus several of the opposite
side keys duplicated. It is intended for Smart
TV applications and uses a 2.4GHz
link with a tiny USB dongle (pictured).
It’s priced at $139 at all Altronics
stores.
22 Silicon Chip
subscription, which start at around $5 per month.
I like the BBC (UK) iPlayer channel but to view this
channel here in Australia it must also be accessed via a
proxy server.
The easiest one to use is the “Expat Shield” (www.
expatshield.com). This is a free download but only works
for PCs at the moment.
Once it’s downloaded it can be connected via the shortcut
or the shield icon in the computer’s tray.
When connected it assigns a UK IP address to the computer. This makes the computer appear to be in the UK – if
it has an Australian (or other) IP address it won’t work.
After connection, the tab can then be closed and any
search will be via the proxy server. A connection can then
be established to the UK online TV channels.
Streaming from the UK via this proxy server can sometimes be slow and seems to depend on the time of day, The
BBC offers HD quality streaming on some programs and
this can stall sometimes, but generally it will work.
There is a downside: don’t try to connect to any Australian channels as while running Expat Shield. Again, it wont
work, as the reverse applies and it thinks you are in the UK!
The other problem with Expat Shield is popup adverts,
although these can be stopped by using Firefox and their
“anti popup” add on.
The BBC iPlayer (www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/tv) won’t let
you watch TV programs if you are not domiciled in the UK
(due to rights restrictions – it checks your IP address) but
it does have a radio streaming service which has comedy
shows, plays, documentaries etc. These can be accessed
directly without the need for a proxy server.
Once this has been set up, you only need a mouse to
navigate the screen, but I opted for a wireless keyboard with
trackball from Jaycar (Cat No XC-4943) which worked well.
It is very tempting to remove the stand from the Acer and
position it sideways in the TV cabinet’s DVD compartment
but I found in this limited area the Acer got rather too hot
for comfort, so I positioned it upright on its stand behind
the TV. The wireless keyboard still worked well in this
position and it’s nicely out of sight.
So there you have it: a smart TV conversion for a little
over $100, which is smarter than the average Smart TV as
SC
it can access overseas online TV sites.
If you’re looking
for a keyboard with more
conventional-sized keys and layout, the Jaycar XC-4943
Wireless Keyboard will fit the bill. It is ideal for use with
a Smart TV – in fact, you’ll find it most frustrating without
having access to a “QWERTY” keyboard and mouse. This
one also has a built-in trackball for added convenience.
There’s also a near-identical-looking Bluetooth model (XC4945). Both are priced at $39.95 at all Jaycar stores.
siliconchip.com.au
DIY
Wireless Audio
Streaming
By NICHOLAS VINEN
Our CLASSiC DAC (February-May 2013) has a USB socket and can
be connected to a PC, so you can play audio files on the computer
through a hifi system with top-notch sound quality. But what if your
hifi system isn’t in the same room as your computer? The answer
is that you can use a small and cheap router to wirelessly stream
audio between rooms. Here’s how.
A
FEW MONTHS AGO, we showed how to program a
tiny, cheap router with some open source software so
that it can act as a web server, control relays and do various other things (“Hacking a Mini Wireless Web Server”,
November and December 2012). In this article, we will take
a similar approach, configuring a slightly different router to
stream CD-quality audio over WiFi to a USB audio device
such as our CLASSiC DAC.
There are several reasons why you would want to do
this. First, if you’re listening to music with a reasonable
dynamic range, you don’t want a computer with a fan or
fans running in the same room; you will hear them during
the quieter passages.
Second, it’s much more convenient to select files to play
from a hard disk than it is to dig through a collection of
CDs, DVDs or other discs to find the one you want to play.
And if you’ve bought music from iTunes or a similar service, you may not have physical media at all. In fact, just
about anything you can play on your PC can be streamed
to a remote sound system.
24 Silicon Chip
If you have multiple computers in your home, they can
be set up so that any one of them can stream audio to the
hifi system using this approach. By the way, the unit we
describe here is also suitable for streaming audio over
wired Ethernet networks, if you already have the wiring
and sockets in place.
Commercial options
There are products you can buy to do this job but they
are generally not cheap and often have integrated amplifiers
and speakers with mediocre sound quality. The aim of this
article is to describe how to build your own network streaming solution and get the best possible audio quality but
there are off-the-shelf solutions which will do the job too.
If you would prefer to buy a commercial network
audio player, one option is to get one with a digital output
(TOSLINK or S/PDIF) and then you can connect it to the
CLASSiC DAC to ensure the best sound quality.
For Apple users, the easiest solution is to get a set of
wireless speakers supporting the “Airplay” protocol.
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Fig.2: setting a PC’s Ethernet interface for a static IP address
in Windows 7. Change it back once you are finished.
Fig.1: various Australian online shops sell the D-Link DIR412 router for less than $20. These are also available from
overseas sellers via ebay or similar sites.
Other options (with varying operating system support)
include the Logitech Squeezebox, Netgear MP101, Marantz
NA7004 with external Ethernet/WiFi bridge and the Sonos
product range.
Many of these cost over $200 though and while they will
generally have more features than what we are describing here, we spent less than $20 on our router. In making
that comparison, we’re assuming you’ve already built the
CLASSiC DAC.
Wireless performance
To stream CD quality audio, you need a network link
with a throughput of at least 1.5Mbps and it has to be
pretty reliable – if the connection is dropping in and out
regularly, the audio will break up. Modern WiFi products
advertise speeds of 54Mbps, 108Mbps, 150Mbps and more.
So it would seem like this is a lay-down misère.
But there are various reasons why WiFi performance
often falls well short of the advertised speeds and in
some situations, it may be difficult to achieve the required
speed. The two main reasons are spectrum congestion (ie,
interference) and obstacles in the path of the microwaves.
Congestion will depend on how many other people with
WiFi networks and 2.4GHz cordless phones live in close
proximity to you. If you are in a large apartment block
or dense urban area, you will likely find dozens of WiFi
networks when scanning with your computer. In this case,
you should check that you can reach the required speed (eg,
by copying a file to a laptop near your hifi system) before
going ahead. 1.5Mbps is equivalent to roughly 200KB/s.
If you are near a lot of WiFi networks, you may be able
to improve the speed and reliability of the connection by
changing the channel(s) your WiFi router operates on, to
one of the less occupied channels. Changing the position
of its external antenna(s) (if present) may also help.
If buying a cordless telephone to use in a home with a
WiFi network, it’s best to pick one that doesn’t operate at
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Fig.3: the DIR412’s recovery
page, accessed
by holding in the
reset button at
power-up, lets
you re-flash the
unit via this web
interface.
Fig.4: after uploading a new
image to the
device, it takes
about 90 seconds
to reconfigure
and reboot before
you can connect
to it.
2.4GHz. But note that WiFi networks can also operate at
5.17-5.825GHz (802.11a/n) so a 5.8GHz cordless phone
isn’t necessarily the answer either!
As for obstacles, walls and furniture are the most common and there isn’t much you can do about that but if the
connection is marginal, you may find that slight changes
in the position and orientation of the router(s) will make
the difference. This is likely due to a combination of the
antenna design (these days, often fractal) and standing
waves caused by reflections off walls and other internal
obstacles. Elevating the router may help, too.
We tested streaming in two environments. The first was
in a small office building with two other WiFi signals in
range, with the main router inside a steel rack cabinet (near
the top). The distance was about 10m with one plasterboard wall in the way. In this case, we got a reliable and
July 2013 25
Fig.5: once OpenWRT has been loaded on the router, the
next step is to set a root password via its web interface.
it’s fine for transmitting audio over Ethernet as long as you
disable its WiFi altogether.
As a result, we bought a D-Link DIR-412 instead, in the
hope that its slightly different hardware would not have the
same bug. Getting it up and running is a bit more difficult
since it isn’t as popular as the WR-703N and thus OpenWrt
has no official support for it. But we did eventually get it
working and were relieved to find its audio output is clean,
even when streaming over WiFi.
The steps required to set up a DIR-412 for WiFi audio
streaming are listed below. This unit is available from local
and overseas retailers at a similar price to the WR-703N.
At the time of writing, it was available from five different
Australian online retailers for less than $20 (not including
postage) – see Fig.1.
One of the great things about the DIR-412 is that it has a
reset button which can be used to activate an emergency
recovery mode, allowing you to re-flash it even if you have
accidentally “bricked” it.
In theory, any wireless router with USB ports and OpenWrt support can be used for this project – see http://wiki.
openwrt.org/toh/start But the DIR-412 is the model that we
know will work so we’re going to stick with it.
Problems with OpenWrt
Some readers who re-flashed a router using the steps
outlined in our previous articles (mentioned earlier) ran
into problems. We believe these are sorted out now. Check
the panel later in this article for details on what went wrong
and for the solutions.
Preparing the router
Here are the steps to set up the DIR-412 for wireless
audio streaming.
(1) Download the two required OpenWrt images. These are
available from http://downloads.openwrt.org/attitude_adjustment/12.09/ramips/rt305x/ and have the following file
names:
openwrt-ramips-rt305x-dir-615-d-squashfs-factory.bin
openwrt-ramips-rt305x-wr512-3gn-4M-squashfs-sysupgrade.bin
Fig.6: enter the device’s IP address, the user name “root”
and the password you have set into a Secure Copy (SCP)
program to copy the WiFi firmware off the device.
consistent connection of around 20Mbps, giving flawless
audio streaming.
The second environment was a medium-sized apartment
building with about 10 WiFi networks in range and a brick
wall between the two routers. The main router used was
an older model with a single external antenna and was
placed on a desk. In this case, speed was not an issue but
we had to play with the position of the receiving unit to
get a reliable connection with no drop-outs.
Our approach
We first tried setting up audio streaming via the TPLink WR-703N that we featured in our earlier articles on
router “hacking”. It did work but not reliably. With this
unit, when WiFi is enabled, USB audio has intermittent
clicks and pops, suggesting USB data packet corruption.
That rules that unit out for wireless streaming although
26 Silicon Chip
(2) Connect power to the DIR-412 while holding down
the recessed reset button at the rear, eg, with a paper clip.
Release it after about 10 seconds and the power LED should
be flashing orange.
(3) Temporarily disconnect your LAN cable (if present)
and connect the DIR-412’s Ethernet port to your PC; you
can use the supplied cable.
(4) Set your computer to use a static IP address of
192.168.0.2. In Windows 7, this can be done by going to
the Network and Sharing Centre (accessible via the Control
Panel), clicking “Change adapter settings”, double clicking
your Ethernet adaptor, clicking Properties, then doubleclicking on the TCP/IPv4 entry – see Fig.2.
Select “Use the following IP address” and enter
192.168.0.2 with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0, then click
“OK” several times to close the remaining dialogs. Other
versions of Windows use a similar procedure.
(5) Point a web browser to http://192.168.0.1 (ie, type that
in the address bar) and you should get a screen like Fig.3.
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Fig.7: after connecting to the DIR412 using WinSCP, navigate to the
firmware directory (at right) and
copy the RT305X.eeprom file to a
temporary location on your PC (left).
This is necessary as there is no official
OpenWRT image available for the
DIR-412 and doing so allows us to get
USB and WiFi both working at the
same time.
If not, check that the DIR-412 is in emergency recovery
mode (ie, flashing orange power LED) and check that the IP
is set correctly (eg, run “ipconfig” in a command prompt)
and the Ethernet cable is plugged in correctly at both ends.
(6) Click the “Select” button and then browse to the first
file you downloaded earlier, for the DIR-615 router.
(7) Click the “Proceed” button and you should then get a
screen similar to Fig.4. Don’t touch any of the cables to
the DIR-412 during the 90-second countdown as the unit
is re-flashed.
(8) Change your computer’s IP address to 192.168.1.2 using
the same procedure as in step 4.
(9) Point your browser at http://192.168.1.1 and you should
get the LuCI login screen (Fig.5). Click the “login” button.
(10) Click the link at the top of the screen to set a password,
then enter your chosen password in both boxes and click
the “Save & Apply” button in the bottom corner.
(11) Use an SCP program such as WinSCP to log into the
router with the user name “root”, your chosen password
and an IP address of 192.168.1.1 (Fig.6). When you get a
warning about the server’s host key not being found, click
“Yes” to proceed. You may also get a message “Error getting
name of current remote directory”; click OK to ignore it.
Copy the file /overlay/lib/firmware/RT305X.eeprom to your PC.
To find this, you may need to double-click the “..” entry
first – see Fig.7.
(12) Go back to the web interface, click the “System” tab
at the top, then the “Backup / Flash Firmware” tab that
appears below it. Near the bottom of the screen, under
“Flash new firmware image”, click on the Browse button
and choose the second OpenWrt file you downloaded, for
the WR512-3GN router (Fig.8). Click the “Flash Image”
button and it will verify that the file is valid (Fig.9); click
the button to proceed with re-flashing.
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(13) Wait about 90 seconds and the web interface should
automatically re-load; if not, re-enter http://192.168.1.1 in
your browser address bar. You will need to log back in.
(14) Use SCP to copy the RT305X.eeprom file back onto the reflashed router, over the top of the file in /overlay/lib/firmware.
If asked whether to overwrite the existing file, select “Yes”.
(15) Go to the System tab on the web interface, then click
on the Reboot sub-tab under it at right and then click the
“Perform reboot” link.
(16) Once it has rebooted, log back into the web interface.
Click on the Network tab, then the WiFi sub-tab. Enable
WiFi using the button labelled as such and the wireless
LED on the router should turn green. Click “Scan”. You
should get a list of nearby wireless networks (Fig.10).
Click the appropriate “Join Network” button and enter
the password and other details required to access your
network. Select the “lan” firewall zone (green), click the
“Submit” button and then “Save & Apply” at the bottom.
(17) Wait about 20 seconds, then click on the Interfaces
sub-tab near the top of the screen and check that “WWAN”
is shown with a green background. If you have DHCP on
your network (most people do), the unit should have picked
up an IP address which will be shown to the right, under
IPv4 and it will normally start with “192.168”. Make a note
of this IP. Also go to the “Status” tab and write down the
Netmask, Gateway and DNS addresses under “Network”.
(18) Under Interfaces, click on the button to edit this
WWAN interface (at right) and then change “DHCP client” to “Static address”. Click “Switch protocol”, and in
the “IPv4 address” box which appears, enter the address
you want to assign to the router. It should be the same as
the address you noted in the last step except for the final
number.
You need to choose this number carefully so that it can’t
conflict with another device which has its IP address allocated automatically by the main router via DHCP. That
July 2013 27
(19a) Click on the Interface sub-tab again. What you do next
depends on whether you will be connecting the router to
Ethernet or just using wireless.
(19b) Wireless only: compare the IPv4 addresses for LAN
and WWAN. If they have the same first three digits (eg,
both start with 192.168.1) then you will need to change
the LAN IP address or else wireless will not work with the
Ethernet cable unplugged.
Click on the Edit button to the right of the LAN interface,
change the second-last digit in its address, then click the
Save & Apply button. Make a note of this new address since
if you lose access to the wireless network, you will need
to use this address to access the router; if all else fails, you
can always use the emergency recovery mode.
(19c) Wired and wireless: pick another address similar to
what you assigned to the wireless interface but not the same
(eg, 192.168.0.201) and assign this to the LAN interface,
using a similar procedure as in step 19b. Note that in this
case, if the unit is not connected to an Ethernet network,
the WiFi interface will be inoperative.
Fig.8: use the Flash operations tab to replace the current
firmware image with one that has USB support.
router will assign DHCP addresses with a range of numbers,
typically ending in a number between 10 and 100. Higher
numbers are generally safe, eg, between 200 and 250. If in
doubt, check your main router configuration.
Also enter the Netmask, Gateway and DNS addresses
that you noted earlier, then save and apply the changes.
Fig.9: after uploading the new image, you’re asked to verify
that it is correct and you want to proceed. If you use the file
we specified, your checksum should match ours.
28 Silicon Chip
(20) Unplug the Ethernet cable from the D-Link DIR-412
router and your PC, then re-connect your PC to its usual
network (if a cable was plugged in before). If you will be
using the DIR-412 with a wired connection, connect the
Ethernet cable.
(21) On your PC, point a browser at the IP address you
have assigned to the wireless network of the DIR-412, eg,
http://192.168.0.200 You should then be able to log into
the web interface as before. This confirms that the wireless
interface is working properly.
Fig.10: once the new WiFi firmware is in place, you can
perform a Wireless Scan and then find and connect to your
WiFi network.
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Fig.11: this is the greeting screen after connecting to OpenWRT with a Secure Shell (SSH) program. You can then
install extra software and set it up using text commands.
(22) Use an SSH program such as PuTTY (Windows) or
OpenSSH (Linux/Mac) to login as root at this same IP address, using the same password as for the LuCI web interface. Again, we described how to do this in the November
2012 issue but if you install and run PuTTY, it should be
pretty easy to figure out. You should then get a text greeting screen as shown in Fig.11.
(23) Type the command “opkg update” and press enter.
It will then download the list of available packages from
the internet with the message “Updated list of available
packages ...”. If you get an error message instead, that suggests the gateway and/or DNS addresses entered earlier are
wrong; correct them via the web interface and try again.
(24) Once this list has updated, type opkg install netcat
kmod-usb-audio and press enter. This installs the USB audio
driver and a program to stream data over a TCP/IP network.
(25) To check that USB audio is working, plug the CLASS
iC DAC or a USB audio dongle into the port on the top of
the router and then type cat /proc/asound/cards. You should
get a result something like this:
Fig.12 (above): VLC is
a media player that’s
available for multiple
operating systems,
including Windows. It
can play audio to a file
on disk which we then
stream over the wireless
network.
Fig.13 (left): a shortcut
like this can then be
used to launch the software and start streaming audio at any time.
0 [CODEC ]: USB-Audio – USB Audio CODEC
Burr-Brown from TI USB Audio CODEC at usb-dwc_otg.0-1, full speed
Check that it is installed correctly by typing aplay -h – you
should get a long help text. Otherwise, one of the above
files may not have been copied correctly.
(26) Now for the audio playback software. This comes in
packages with other software we don’t want and which
won’t fit in flash. So we install them to a temporary location
in RAM and then copy just the required files into flash.
To do this, type opkg install -d ram alsa-utils and press Enter.
Several packages will be downloaded and installed. Then,
type the following series of commands:
(27) By default, audio played will be resampled to 48kHz.
But if you are mostly playing music from CDs, then these
will be 44.1kHz so to get the best audio quality, we want
to change this default rate. This can be done with the following command: sed -i s/48000/44100/ /usr/share/alsa/alsa.conf
Confirm this worked by running grep 44100 /usr/share/alsa/
alsa.conf and you should see: defaults.pcm.dmix.rate 44100
cp /tmp/lib/libpthread-0.9.33.2.so /tmp/lib/librt-0.9.33.2.so /lib
cd /lib
ln -s libpthread-0.9.33.2.so libpthread.so.0
ln -s librt-0.9.33.2.so librt.so.0
cp /tmp/usr/lib/libasound.so.2.0.0 /usr/lib
cd /usr/lib
ln -s libasound.so.2.0.0 libasound.so.2
cp /tmp/usr/bin/aplay /usr/bin
cp -R /tmp/usr/share/alsa /usr/share
(28) We are now ready to set up the streaming audio receiver. This can be done with the following command (be
careful to type it exactly and only press enter at the end):
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echo ‘while [ 1 ]; do netcat -l -p 44100 | aplay -B 100000 -r 44100 -c
2 -f S16_LE -t raw -; done &’ > /etc/rc.local
Then to get it going, make sure the USB audio device is
plugged in and then type this command: source /etc/rc.local
This will happen automatically each time it boots from
now on.
July 2013 29
Problems With The WR-703N Router & OpenWRT
W
E GOT AN enthusiastic response to our articles on
re-flashing the WR703N mini router (“Hacking A Mini
Wireless Web Server”, November & December 2012).
Unfortunately though, some readers who purchased a
WR703N and attempted to re-flash it ran into problems.
There were two different reasons for this.
The first is that late last year, the manufacturers of the
WR703N brought out a new version of the device (v1.7) that
worked a bit differently from the previous version. Specifically, its bootloader software disables the Ethernet port on boot
and relies on the main program to re-enable it, something
that was not necessary with earlier versions of the device.
Note that many of the affected devices have a sticker on the
bottom incorrectly showing the version as 1.6.
The OpenWRT software has since been patched to fix
this (ie, enable Ethernet on boot), so if you buy one of these
routers now and attempt to flash it, it should work. But those
people who flashed their units before this fix was released
(right at the end of 2012/beginning of 2013) were left unable
to connect to it via either Ethernet, which was disabled, or
WiFi, which needs to be set up before it can be used.
In this case, the only solution is to solder a serial port
connector to three small pads on the PCB, as shown here:
http://forums.openpilot.org/blog/52/entry-92-unbrickwr703n-wifi-router/ You can then change settings or
re-flash the unit via a serial console, as described on that
web page. More information on the Ethernet boot problem
can be found at https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.
php?id=40986
New versions of OpenWRT
Another problem that some readers encountered was that
they were unable to install certain packages using the opkg
program, mainly those starting with kmod. The problem
is that OpenWRT was a work in progress last year when
we published the articles describing how to re-flash the
WR703N. After you had re-flashed your unit, there was the
possibility that changes to the software on the OpenWRT
website would render the available packages incompatible
The DIR-412 is now ready to receive audio. Check that
the USB audio device is plugged into it and move on to
setting up your PC.
Streaming to it
To send audio to the unit, it’s simply a matter of making
a TCP connection on port 44,100 and sending a WAV file
containing the PCM audio data.
That sounds easy but we couldn’t easily find Windows
music players with this sort of capability so we’ve come
up with a small program which allows you do this. It’s
called “TCPWAVStream” and we are making the source
code and Windows executable file available for download.
It also builds and runs on Linux (make sure gcc and binutils
are installed, then run make). It will probably work in Mac
OSX too, since that is based on BSD. However, we haven’t
actually tried to compile it on a Mac.
This software can work in one of two ways. The simplest is to use a music/video player such as VLC. You can
30 Silicon Chip
with the now out-of-date version of the firmware on your
router.
In fact, the version of the software that we recommended
using, Attitude Adjustment, has now been finalised with
version 12.09 and they have started work on a new version called Barrier Breaker. Because we recommended
installing OpenWRT from the “trunk” repository, that means
that when they switched over from Attitude Adjustment
to Barrier Breaker, it became virtually impossible to install
kernel module packages as it would try to download files for
the wrong version.
If you have this problem, you have two options: either reflash your router with the latest version of Attitude Adjustment or move over to Barrier Breaker. In general, we recommend sticking with the former solution as it means you
are far less likely to run into this same module compatibility
problem in future although Barrier Breaker has some new
features which some people may wish to experiment with.
Either way, the procedure is similar. For Attitude Adjustment, download the latest sysupgrade firmware from this
location:
http://downloads.openwrt.org/attitude_adjustment/12.09/ar71xx/generic/openwrt-ar71xx-generic-tlwr703n-v1-squashfs-sysupgrade.bin
For Barrier Breaker, it can be found here:
http://downloads.openwrt.org/snapshots/trunk/ar71xx/
openwrt-ar71xx-generic-tl-wr703n-v1-squashfs-sysupgrade.bin
Use the procedure described in this article (step 12) to
re-flash the router with this new firmware. Note that you may
need to re-install any packages you installed previously with
opkg after doing this.
Note also that you may already have Barrier Breaker
if you used the instructions we published previously after
the trunk had been switched over. And if you do, some of
the packages that we explained you should install in those
articles may not be necessary. For example, kmod-usbstorage may already be present and not required to access
a USB flash drive that’s plugged into the router.
download the Windows version for free from http://www.
videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html
Once VLC is installed, you then set it up to output
sound to a WAV file. To do this, go to Tools -> Preferences ->
Audio and then change the Output module to “File audio
output”. Select a destination file on a drive with plenty of
free space. We set ours to c:\temp\temp.wav (see Fig.12; the
directory c:\temp must exist). You will then need to re-start
VLC for this to take effect.
Download and unzip TCPWAVStream.exe and cygwin1.dll
to a convenient location (eg, C:\Program Files), then create a
shortcut to the exe file on your desktop, or wherever you
prefer. Right-click on this shortcut, then select “Properties”
and change the Target field to add a space at the end, then
the name of your WAV file in quotes, then another space
and then the IP address of the router to stream to.
In our case, the Target field then contains (see Fig.13):
“C:\Program Files\TCPWAVStream.exe” “c:\temp\temp.wav”
192.168.0.200
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Double-click this shortcut and it should open a text box.
Now play a file in VLC and you should see the buffer fill
up, as indicated by an increasing buffer percentage (Fig.14).
Once the buffer reaches about 70% full, assuming your
router is switched on and ready, the program will open a
connection and start streaming audio to it.
When this happens, the buffer percentage should drop
to about 50% and hover around that. Meanwhile, the lights
on the router will flash to indicate constant data reception
and audio playback should begin. Confirm this by listening
to the DAC’s output. To stream audio in future, assuming
the wireless router is powered on, you just need to launch
that shortcut and then play the file(s) in VLC.
Another option
If you want to use other audio software which doesn’t
have a WAV writer feature, there is another option. Download and install the latest version of the “Virtual Audio
Capture Grabber Device” from http://sourceforge.net/
projects/virtualaudiodev/files/
This software essentially allows you to record whatever
is being played from your PC, ie, it is a loopback device.
You can then feed this recorded audio to our streaming
software. Then anything you play on your PC will also be
sent to the router and thus to your hifi system. We don’t
know for sure whether this is a purely digital path or
whether noise and distortion can be introduced by this
process but it sounds reasonably clean.
Once you have installed the device, you can then create
a shortcut to start up the streaming. Navigate to the directory where is has installed ffmpeg.exe. In our case, this is
the following rather long path:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Virtual Audio Capture Grabber\screencapture-recorder-to-video-windows-free\configuration_setup_
utility\vendor\ffmpeg\bin
You will then need to create a batch file (eg, TCPWAVStream.
bat) to initiate streaming. This should contain the following,
which you will need to adjust depending on where your
ffmpeg.exe and TCPWAVStream.exe files are located:
cd “C:\Program Files (x86)\Virtual Audio Capture Grabber\screencapture-recorder-to-video-windows-free\configuration_setup_
utility\vendor\ffmpeg\bin”
ffmpeg -f dshow -i audio=virtual-audio-capturer -acodec pcm_s16le
-f wav -loglevel panic - | “c:\Program Files\TCPWAVStream.exe” 192.168.0.200
You can do this by typing those lines into notepad
(note: just two lines, one starting with “cd” and one with
“ffmpeg”) and then saving it as a file with a .bat (batch
file) extension.
Run this .bat file and you should get a result similar to
that described above although since this will be constantly
capturing audio whether or not you are playing anything,
it should begin buffering immediately.
Direct streaming
You can also use ffmpeg to decode and stream audio files
direct to the router without going through your system’s
sound card or a temporary file but you will need to use the
command line to play back files. All you need to do is use
the ffmpeg command above but get rid of the -f dshow and
-i audio=virtual-audio-capturer parameters and replace them
with the name and path of the file to be played.
This works in Linux too but is really only appropriate
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Fig.14: our simple program runs in a command prompt
box and streams audio data when you are playing a file.
for advanced users who are comfortable with a command
line interface.
How our software works
While the TCPWAVStream program is rather elegant in its
operation (we think), it is still rather complex and we won’t
go into great detail here – if you’re interested, have a look
at the source code. But in brief, what it does is constantly
read from the end of the file specified (or standard input)
into a circular memory buffer while also emptying that
buffer to a TCP “socket” which sends the data to the router.
The WAV header contains the audio format details
(sampling rate, etc) and the router thus configures its audio
output to match that of your PC. Because the router only
consumes the data from its socket at its internal sampling
rate, this effectively throttles the emptying of the buffer.
While the sampling rate of the playback from your PC
will in theory match that of the audio device attached to
the router, in practice they will never be exactly the same
as they are using different crystals to derive the sampling
rate. This means that the memory buffer in the PC software
will slowly fill or empty over time. The software attempts
to keep the fill to about 50% by slightly shortening or
lengthening any periods of silence in the data it streams.
The software gracefully handles situations such as the
WAV file being deleted or truncated (which is what happens
when VLC starts playing a different file), the connection to
the router being dropped or the router being temporarily
unreachable and so on. Note that it will delete the WAV file
once it has finished reading it, if it remains unchanged for a
short period, so you should only point it at temporary files.
Also note that because there are multiple layers of buffering – ie, in VLC/Virtual Audio Grabber, the file system,
the TCPWAVStream software, the network buffers on both
ends, in the audio player on the router, its USB hardware
and in the USB device itself – there will be quite a delay
between starting or stopping playback and a change actually occurring at the output. This will be of the order of a
couple of seconds.
This isn’t normally a problem when playing music but if
you want to stream the audio from a video, you will need
to change the A/V synchronisation delay or else the audio
and video will not match up. With VLC, this can be done
using the “j” and “k” keys on your keyboard. Other video
playback software may or may not have this capability.
If you experience audio dropouts in the audio while
streaming, the likely cause is an unreliable WiFi link. Refer
to the section on wireless performance for information on
SC
likely methods to correct this.
July 2013 31
Into model railways?
Then you’ll want to build the . . .
L i’l Pulser
M o del Tr ain
Con t r oller, Mk.2
By JOHN CLARKE
This project started out as a simple revision to our very popular
Li’l Pulser train controller featured in the February 2001 issue. But
while it fits into the same tiny case of the original design, this new
controller has a lot more features and it can deliver four times as
much current. It’s become the “Li’l Pulser that could!”
U
NLESS YOU ARE already using
a previously published SILICON
CHIP model train controller, this little
feature-packed controller is likely to
be better than any controller you have
used. This is particularly true if you
are using a commercially-made lowcost rheostat or series transistor train
controller.
Simple train controllers have
plenty of shortcomings. To get the loco
started, you have to wind the speed
control way past the setting at which
you would want it to run. Then the
32 Silicon Chip
loco suddenly takes off like a startled
rabbit. Once running, with reduced
throttle setting, the loco then slows
down whenever there is the slightest
incline.
So what makes Li’l Pulser so much
better? Well, firstly it will control
the loco at the speed you want, with
smooth starts and not too much speed
reduction on hills. In model railway
jargon, “pulse power” is what makes
this little train controller such a good
performer.
Don’t let the small case fool you.
This little train controller has just
about all the operational features of our
best designs (such as the Railpower IV
from September & October 2008). And
there is no heavy mains transformer or
mains wiring involved because you
can use an original train controller
supply, a 12V lead-acid battery charger
or any 15-19V switchmode laptop PC
power supply rated at up to 8A.
Pulse power
As noted earlier, our Li’l Pulser applies pulse power to the railway track.
siliconchip.com.au
The completed unit, shown
here actual size, is quite
compact but has lots of
features and can deliver
output currents up to 8A.
Power comes from an
external 15-19V DC supply
rated up to 8A (eg, a laptop
PC power supply).
This involves applying 17V voltage
pulses (typically) to the track, even
at low throttle settings. These voltage
pulses are much more effective at starting and running a loco, particularly at
low settings.
The pulses overcome track resistance and motor and gearbox stiction,
thus providing a smooth-running loco
motor. At low speeds, the 17V pulses
are very short so that the average voltage is low and the motor runs at a slow
speed. For faster operation, the pulses
are wider, thus applying a higher average voltage to the motor.
But pulse power is not the only
feature of this latest Li’l Pulser model
train controller. It also includes mon
itoring of the motor back-EMF to
provide very good speed regulation.
Without this back-EMF control, the
model locos would slow down unrealistically with any slight incline.
siliconchip.com.au
Naturally, Li’l Pulser Mk.2 has reverse polarity and overload protection
(essential features for any but the simplest model train controller), together
with an audible alarm which beeps
briefly for momentary track shorts
but which sounds for longer for more
severe overloads.
New features
The original Li’l Pulser had very
basic features: a speed control potentiometer, three LEDs to indicate power
on, reverse and track voltage, and a
switch for forward/reverse operation.
By contrast, Li’l Pulser Mk.2 has
several added features that vastly
improve the realism of operation,
including inertia (sometimes called
“momentum”), braking and reverse
lockout, plus minimum and maximum
speed settings.
The most useful added feature is
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pulse power for smooth running
•
Adjustable inertia and braking
rates
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Inertia on and off selection
Excellent low speed control
Speed regulation
Speed control pot
Inertia and braking simulation
Minimum and maximum speed
adjustments
Power on indication
Track voltage LED indication
Reverse indicator
Over-current/short circuit alarm
Compact size
Maximum current: 8A
Power supply: 15-19V DC
July 2013 33
Li’l Pulser Par t s Lis t
1 double-sided PCB, code
09107131, 129.5 x 100.5mm
1 front panel PCB, code 09107132,
132 x 30mm
1 rear panel PCB, code 09107133,
132 x 30mm OR
1 aluminium rear panel, 134 x 30
x 1mm (see text)
1 plastic instrument case, 140 x
110 x 35mm (Jaycar HB-5970,
Altronics H 0472)
1 piezo buzzer (Jaycar AB-3459,
Altronics S6104)
1 16mm 10kΩ linear PCB-mount
potentiometer (VR1)
1 1MΩ miniature horizontalmount trimpot (VR4)
1 250kΩ miniature horizontalmount trimpot (VR5)
3 10kΩ miniature horizontal-mount
trimpots (VR2,VR3,VR6)
1 1kΩ miniature horizontal-mount
trimpot (VR7)
2 nuts and washer for VR1
1 19mm knob to suit potentiometer
1 8A DPDT PCB mount relay
(Altronics S 4190D) (RELAY1)
4 SPDT PCB mount toggle switches
(Altronics S 1421) (S1-S4)
1 2.5mm PC mount DC socket
1 black binding post
1 red binding post
2 white binding posts
4 6.3mm 45° chassis-mount spade
terminals (Jaycar PT-4900,
Altronics H 2251)
1 8A M205 fuse (F1)
2 M205 fuse clips
2 TO-220 insulating bushes
2 TO-220 silicone insulating
washers
4 M3 x 5mm screws
2 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 nuts
7 PC stakes
reverse lockout. This makes it impossible to throw the loco into reverse
while it is moving in the forward
direction. This is highly desirable, for
two reasons. Firstly, it is more realistic
and secondly it prevents derailments.
Reverse lockout means that even if you
inadvertently switch to change the direction of the train while it is moving,
the controller won’t do anything until
the train has come almost to a full stop.
Inertia and braking add realism to
loco operation. While you can simu34 Silicon Chip
1 200mm length of 8A hook-up
wire
Semiconductors
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC1)
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC2)
1 LM393 dual comparator (IC3)
1 4013 dual D-flipflop (IC4)
2 IRF1405 55V 169A Mosfets
(Q1,Q2)
2 BC337 NPN transistors (Q3,Q5)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q4)
1 7812 3-terminal 12V regulator
(REG1)
1 15V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 FR607 6A diode (D6)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D5)
4 1N4148 switching diodes
(D2-D4, D7)
1 3mm 2-lead bi-colour LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
1 3mm green LED (LED3)
Capacitors
3 2200µF 25V low-ESR electrolytic
(22mm high or less; eg,
element14 1800659)
4 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 47µF 16V low-leakage PC
electrolytic or tantalum
1 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 1µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 1µF monolithic ceramic (MMC)
1 220nF MKT polyester
2 100nF MKT polyester
1 22nF MKT polyester
1 10nF MKT polyester
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 1MΩ
5 4.7kΩ
1 470kΩ
3 2.2kΩ
1 220kΩ
2 1kΩ
5 100kΩ
2 470Ω
2 47kΩ
1 10Ω
9 10kΩ
2 0.1Ω 5W 5%
late the slow increase in speed during
starting and the slow decrease in speed
during braking by careful adjustment
of the speed control, the inertia and
braking functions do it automatically
and consistently.
It means that the throttle can be preset and the starting and stopping done
entirely using the inertia and braking
functions. The brake typically slows
down the loco at a faster rate than the
start-up inertia rate. There are trimpots
on the PCB to set these rates.
But while simulated inertia is good
most of the time, it can be a problem for
shunting operations. So we’ve added
a front panel switch to disable inertia
when you don’t need it.
Locos don’t buzz when stopped
In case you are wondering, the Li’l
Pulser does not cause locos to buzz
when they are stopped. All model
locomotives require a few volts DC
before they will start moving and
before that, pulse power will cause
them to buzz. However, the minimum
speed setting in the Li’l Pulser can be
set to switch off the pulses whenever
the loco is stopped.
And as we implied above, the Mk.2
version of Li’l Pulser is muscle-bound
compared to the original Li’l Pulser because it can now deliver up to 8A DC.
This means that it can easily handle
trains with double-headed locos, even
if they have smoke generators, sound
and lighting.
This improvement is mainly due to
a vastly better Mosfet than that used
in the original design.
With all these added features, the
controller is still mounted in the same
compact plastic case, measuring just
140mm wide, 35mm high and 110m
deep. We have packed all the circuit
features onto a double-sided PCB with
plated-through holes.
On the front panel, there are toggle
switches for power, inertia, braking
and forward/reverse switching. There
is one knob for the throttle control
and the three LEDs. The track LED is
bi-coloured: green for forward and red
for reverse. The reverse LED is red, to
give an indication when a train is set
to go backwards.
There are four binding post terminals on the rear panel, two for the
input power and two for the leads to
the track. A DC socket is also included
for power but be aware that these DC
sockets are not rated for much above
about 4A. So use the binding posts for
higher current operation.
Pulse width modulation
Before having a look at the full
circuit of the Li’l Pulser, we should
describe how the circuit generates the
varying width pulses which drive the
loco motor. To do that, we have taken
the core of the circuit, as shown in
Fig.1. It basically consists of a ramp
(triangle) wave generator based on
IC1a and a comparator based on IC3b.
siliconchip.com.au
+17V
+12V
+12V
100k
100k
3
2
IC1a
MOTOR IN
TRAIN
Vsmax
1
10k
47 F
Vsmin
(LM358)
100k
10k
VR1
10k
220k
K
VS
SPEED
(LM393)
6
22nF
A
VP
5
VT
TRACK
TERMINALS
D6
FR607
D
7
IC3b
G
Q1
IRF1405
S
COMPARATOR
(PWM GENERATOR)
TRIANGLE WAVE
GENERATOR
Fig.1: the core of the circuit. IC1a generates a triangle waveform and this is compared with the output voltage from
the speed pot (VR1) in comparator IC3b to produce a 160Hz pulse waveform. This then drives Mosfet Q1 which
switches the supply voltage to the tracks each time it turns on.
The IC numbers correspond to the
same parts on the main circuit shown
in Fig.3.
IC1a is one half of an LM358 dual
op amp and is configured to work as
an oscillator running at about 160Hz.
It works by charging and discharging
a 22nF capacitor at its inverting input.
The result is a triangle (ramp) waveform at pin 2 and a square wave at its
output, pin 1. The triangle waveform
is fed to the inverting input (pin 6)
of IC1b, one half of an LM393 dual
comparator.
The comparator compares the triangle wave at pin 6 with the DC
voltage from VR1, the speed control
potentiometer. This is depicted in
the waveforms shown in Fig.2, with
the DC voltage from VR1 shown as
the horizontal line VS. Whenever the
triangle voltage VT is below VS, the
output VP at IC3b’s pin 7 will go high.
Similarly, when VT is above VS, VP
will go low.
The result is a 160Hz pulse waveform which drives the gate of Mosfet
Q1, turning it on each time VP is high.
Fig.2(a) shows the result when the
speed pot VR1 is set for a high speed
while Fig.2(b) shows the result for a
low-speed setting.
These waveforms are confirmed by
the scope shots accompanying this
article.
Circuit description
Now let’s have a look at the full
circuit shown in Fig.3. It uses four lowcost ICs, two power Mosfets and a relay
for forward/reverse switching. IC1a is
on the lefthand side of the diagram,
while IC3b and Mosfet Q1 are on the
righthand side. Most of the rest of the
siliconchip.com.au
160Hz
160Hz
VS
VT
VT
VS
0V
0V
VP
VP
0V
0V
HIGH SPEED
LOW SPEED
Fig.2: this diagram shows the output waveform (VP) from comparator IC3b
for high-speed and low-speed settings of VR1. The output is high when ever
VS (from the speed control pot) exceeds the triangle wave VT from IC1a.
circuitry is there to add the various
operating features such as braking,
inertia and overload protection.
So let’s start at the top lefthand
corner of the circuit which shows the
DC input and Mosfet Q2 which has a
rather odd configuration. It is actually
in series with the negative return lead
and we are using it for polarity protection instead of a silicon diode.
It works in two ways. Initially, at
switch-on, the Mosfet is off but its
substrate diode (between drain and
source) conducts to let current flow.
Then, once the supply voltage across
the three 2200µF input capacitors
builds up, the Mosfet’s gate is biased
on and so the Mosfet turns hard on
and conducts with a very low forward
voltage of only a few tens of millivolts;
much lower than even a Schottky diode, since its drain source resistance
is only 5.3 milliohms!
Note that the Mosfet conducts even
though its drain is negative with respect to its source electrode. If this
seems a little puzzling, consider that
a Mosfet will conduct in either direction, as long it has the correct gate
voltage polarity; in this case, positive.
If the supply polarity is reversed, there
will be slightly negative gate bias (by
virtue of reverse-biased zener diode,
ZD1) and neither the Mosfet nor its
substrate diode will conduct.
Because the forward voltage loss
across Mosfet Q2 is so low, the amount
of power it dissipates at any current
up to our rated circuit maximum is
very low. In fact, at the rated circuit
current of 8A, the power dissipated
in Q2 is only around 340mW which
means that, strictly speaking, it doesn’t
need any heatsinking at all.
The same general comment goes for
Q1, which is also an IRF1405 automotive Mosfet. And minimum heat means
that we can have a high-power circuit
sitting in a small plastic case.
Relay rating
Given that the IRF1405 Mosfet is
a high-power device, what actually
sets our rated circuit current of 8A
maximum? The answer is the reversing
relay. Its contacts are rated to switch
8A DC. The other determinants of the
maximum current are the two 0.1Ω 5W
wirewound resistors at Q1’s source, as
described later this article.
July 2013 35
TERMINALS
POWER
F1 8A
+17V
0V
3x
2200 F
25V
1k
Q2
IRF1405
DC SOCKET
REG1 7812
+17V
D
+12V
OUT
IN
S4
GND
220nF
G
K
S
A
2.2k
100 F
LOW
ESR
A
+12V
POWER
LED3
K
ZD1
15V
1W
+12V
100 F
4.7k
470
100k
100k
LEVEL
VR6
10k
8
5
6
4.7k
7
IC1b
100k
47k
1
220k
VR2
10k
4
MAX
SET
TP1
22nF
4.7k
160Hz
TRIANGLE
GENERATOR
1
IC2a
3
MIN
SET
BRAKE
470
A
D3
1N4148
TRACK VOLTAGE
LOCKOUT
14
IC2d
VR5
250k
10k
12
13
IC2: LM324
IC4: 4013B
A
POWER UP
RESET
4
470k
10
10 F
2013
S1
VR4 1M
10k
K
SC
RUN
7
IC2b
+12V
TP GND
10k
VR1
10k
5
S2
10k
1 F
IC1: LM358
IC3: LM393
10k
SPEED
6
ERROR AMP
4.7k
IC1a
2
100k
10nF
100k
3
VR3
10k
INERTIA
2
9
IC2c
D2
1N4148
K
8
11
LI'L PULSER TRAIN CONTROLLER MK2
Fig.3: the complete circuit for the Li’l Pulser includes back-EMF monitoring based on error
amplifier IC1b, to ensure good speed regulation. Also included are a relay (RELAY1) to provide
forward & reverse direction, simulated inertia, overload protection (IC3a) and a lock-out
feature to prevent a change of direction until the loco has been brought to a stop.
Going back to the DC input, which
can typically be 17V or more, after being fed in via the power switch S4, it
then feeds 3-terminal regulator REG1
which provides 12V to all of the circuit
except for Q1 which switches the 17V
DC rail directly to the tracks.
Speed control
Let’s now look at how the basic
circuit of Fig.1 has been refined. First,
speed control potentiometer VR1 is
fed via two op amps, IC2a and IC2b.
These are connected as voltage followers, fed by trimpots VR2 and VR3.
So VR2 provides the minimum speed
setting (minimising the “dead spot” at
the low setting of speed potentiometer
VR1) and VR3 provides the maximum
36 Silicon Chip
speed setting, so that you cannot apply
more than the maximum rated voltage
for the locos you are using. Typically,
HO-scale locos run with a maximum
of 12V DC and N-scale locos typically
run with a maximum of 9V.
The voltage from the wiper of speed
control pot VR1 is fed via trimpot VR4
and switch S1 to the 47µF capacitor
at pin 5 of IC3b. This provides the
“inertia”. What happens is that when
you wind up the speed control pot, the
actual change in voltage appearing at
pin 5 of IC3b is slowed down by the
time-constant of VR4 and the 47µF
capacitor. Higher settings of VR4 give
more inertia, simulating the effect of
a heavier train.
For shunting operations, we don’t
1N4148
A
K
want inertia so it can switched off by
S2 which shorts out VR4.
Braking
While inertia is for simulating heavy
trains, in the scale world of models, we
normally want to stop or slow down
trains much more quickly than would
be possible (or safe) in the full-scale
world. So braking switch S1 is included. It is set to RUN when the loco
is being driven normally and then to
BRAKE when you need to bring it to
a quick stop.
In operation, setting S1 to BRAKE
connects VR5 to the 47µF inertia
capacitor and this has the effect of
discharging the capacitor to the output
of IC2b, the minimum speed op amp.
siliconchip.com.au
+12V
100 F
+17V
+12V
LED1 TRACK
2.2k
D6
FR607
K
1 F
MMC
8
K
C
6
A
Q5
BC337
D
10
G
7
IC3b
A
Q3
BC337
Q1
IRF1405
B
A
D5
1N4004
10k
K
2 x 0.1
5W
(R1,R2)
D4
1N4148
C
E
S
D7 1N4148
4
A
RLY1b
E
5
K
D1
1N4004
10k
B
47 F
RELAY1
TRACK
TERMINALS
RLY1a
A
47k
K
+12V
100nF
2.2k
10k
A
+12V
1k
1
+
100 F
Q4
BC327
–
PIEZO
SIREN
E
5
2
IC3a
3
1 F
REV
1M
B
C
4.7k
OVERCURRENT
CURRENT
1N4004, FR607
ZD1
K
This means that the 47µF capacitor is
only discharged to the point where Q1
is just turned off; any more and there
would be more than the necessary
delay when the brake was removed.
Mosfet switching
In our simplified circuit of Fig.1,
we show the output pulses from 1C3b
directly driving the gate of Mosfet Q1.
However, that is not the most effective
way to drive the Mosfet if we want to
minimise its power dissipation.
The problem is that Q1 has quite a
high gate capacitance and if we just
turn it on via IC3b’s 10kΩ load resistor
(this an “open-collector” output), Q1
would turn on relatively slowly for
each positive gate pulse. As a result,
siliconchip.com.au
A
K
FWD
VR7
1k
Q
S
1
K
8
IC4a
CLK
R
REVERSE
LED2
Q
2
9
6
4
11
S3
D
S
Q
IC4b
CLK
Q
Vss
R
10 7
13
12
TP2
LEDS
A
3
10k
100nF
D
14
Vdd
BC327, BC337
B
K
A
E
G
C
its dissipation would be higher than
we want, as it would spend more time
in partial conduction.
For that reason, the gate drive is via
transistor Q5 which is connected as an
emitter follower. This pulls up Q1’s
gate much faster, to minimise switchon time. Conversely, when IC3b’s
output goes low, Q1’s gate is quickly
pulled low via diode D7.
Overload protection
Comparator IC3a provides the overload current protection. Two 0.1Ω 5W
resistors connected in parallel monitor
the load current (ie, through Q1) and
the resulting voltage is fed to IC3a’s pin
2 via a 47kΩ resistor. The associated
100nF capacitor provides filtering.
7812
IRF1405
D
D
GND
IN
S
GND
OUT
The non-inverting input at pin 3 is
connected to trimpot VR7, the current
setting control. If the voltage at pin 2
exceeds that at pin 3, IC3a’s pin 1 output pulls pin 7 of IC3b low via diode
D4. This removes gate drive from Q1.
You then get a “hunt” condition
whereby the removal of gate drive
to Q1 stops the overload current, so
IC3a’s output goes high and the Mosfet
switches on again. This switching on
and off is slowed down using a 1µF
capacitor connected to IC3a’s output.
IC3a also drives a piezo alarm via
transistor Q4 to indicate when an
overload is occurring.
Speed regulation
The loco’s motor generates a backJuly 2013 37
DC INPUT
TERMINALS
Fig.4: install the parts on the
PCB as shown on this layout
diagram. Be sure to orientate
the ICs, Mosfets, diodes
zener diodes and electrolytic
capacitors correctly.
TERMINALS
TO TRACK
VR1 10k
10 F
4004
2.2k
4004
S3
A
LED2
REV
LED1
TRACK
It amplifies the voltage by a factor of
about two and its output is used to
control the pin 3 threshold voltage of
triangle generator lC1b via a 100kΩ
resistor.
So, as the motor speed drops, the
back-EMF decreases, and the DC level
from pin 7 of lC1b drops. This causes
the triangle waveform generated by
IC1a to drop with respect to the DC
voltage from speed control potentiometer VR1. This then results in wider
positive gate pulses to Mosfet Q1 and
more power fed to the motor to maintain the given speed setting.
Trimpot VR6, at pin 5 of IC1b, is included to give some compensation for
different motor characteristics; some
motors generate more back-EMF than
others. VR6 is set so that pin 7 of IC1b
is at about mid-supply voltage (ie, 6V)
when a motor is connected (more on
that in the setting up procedure).
Reverse lockout
Forward and reverse switching is
100nF
2.2k
47k
10k
IC4 4013B
10nF
100k
1
100k
LEVEL
4.7k
47 F
LL
LED3
POWER
EMF that is directly proportional to
its speed. In other words, during the
period that the motor is not driven by
the pulses, it acts as a generator, supplying voltage at its output terminals.
We use this back-EMF as a feedback
signal to make sure that the controller
maintains a relatively constant motor
speed for a given throttle setting, regardless of variations in load.
In operation, the motor’s back-EMF
is monitored by D5 which conducts
when Mosfet Q1 is off. Note that D5
monitors the negative terminal of the
motor and any back-EMF will be negative with respect to the +17V rail. At
low motor speeds, the back-EMF is
close to the 17V supply. As the motor
speeds up, it will generate more backEMF and so the voltage we measure
will be lower (with respect to +17V).
D5 feeds a 1µF capacitor via a voltage divider consisting of two 4.7kΩ
resistors and the resulting filtered voltage is fed to the pin 6 inverting input
of op amp IC1b (the error amplifier).
TP1
S2
S1
BC337
FOR/REV
10k
VR4 1M
INERTIA
10k
10k
RUN/BRAKE
470
TP GND
38 Silicon Chip
Q3
INERTIA
250k
VR5
STOP
TRACK
TRACK
D6
100k
10k
1
VR2
K
100k
4.7k
100 F
100k
470k
4148
10k
D3
SPEED
A
D2
4148
IC2 LM324
10k
10k
MIN.
100 F
10k
IC3
LM393
1k
1 F MMC
1M
470
1k
VR3
S4
POWER
C 2013
NIART LED O M
RELL ORT N O C
09107131
13160190
TP2
220nF
REG1 7812
D1 D5
VR6 10k
1
MAX.
10k
4.7k
1 F
100nF
BC337
22nF
1
VR7
220k
MODEL TRAIN
CONTROLLER
1 F
IC1
LM358
Q5
BC327
2.2k
100 F
4.7k
Q4
OVERCURRENT
R2
COM
NC
PIEZO
LOW ESR
100 F
R1
NO
10k
+
2200 F 25V
47k
4148
+
F1
4148
D7
D4
RELAY1
4.7k
LOW ESR
0.1 5W
2200 F 25V
LOW ESR
0.1 5W
2200 F 25V
15V 1W
+
10
1k
8A
+
Q1
2x IRF1405
FR607
Q2
DC IN
0V
ZD1
DC IN
+17V
Right: the prototype used the
plastic front panel supplied
with the case, plus a paper
label. PCB front panels with
pre-drilled holes and screened
lettering are available from the
SILICON CHIP Online shop.
done by RELAY1. This turns on and
reverses the loco when the Q output
(pin 1) of D-type flipflop IC4a goes
high and turns on transistor Q3. IC4a
provides the forward/reverse lockout
feature whereby the train’s direction
cannot be changed unless the track
voltage is reduced to zero.
This works as follows: IC4a has its
data input (pin 5) connected to either
+12V via a 10kΩ resistor when the
forward/reverse switch (S3) is open or
to 0V when S3 is closed. The Q output
at pin 1 changes to the level set at pin
5 when a positive clock pulse is fed to
pin 3. So if the setting of the forward/
reverse switch is changed, the Q output of IC4a will not change until pin
3 gets a positive clock pulse.
In practice, we prevent a clock pulse
from arriving until the gate pulses to
Mosfet Q1 are stopped. We do this by
monitoring the voltage across the 47µF
capacitor at pin 5 of IC3b (ie, the speed
setting voltage) using op amp IC2d, ie,
via the 10kΩ resistor to its pin 13 input.
siliconchip.com.au
SILICONE
WASHER
INSULATING
BUSH
10mm LONG
M3 SCREW
M3 NUT
Q1, Q2
PCB
REAR OF
CASE
Fig.5: the mounting details for
Mosfets Q1 & Q2. The metal tab of
each device must be isolated from
the rear panel using an insulating
bush and a silicone washer.
IC2d’s pin 12 is connected to a
voltage divider between pin 1 of IC2a
and pin 7 of IC2b. Hence, pin 12 will
be very close to the minimum speed
voltage from IC2b. So until the voltage
across the 47µF capacitor drops below
this minimum voltage (when the brake
is applied, for example), IC2d’s output
will be low and this will short out any
clock pulse to IC4a (ie, from IC1a) by
forward biasing D3.
The clock pulses are derived from
the output of IC1a, the same op amp
that provides the triangle waveform.
As soon as the voltage across the 47µF
capacitor drops below pin 12 of IC2d,
the clock pulses will get through to
IC4a. It will then change state and so
will the relay.
Finally, op amp IC2c is included to
give a power-on reset to IC4a, so that
it has the 160Hz clock signal applied
to give the correct setting of forward or
reverse, as set by the forward/reverse
switch. Thus, when power is first applied, the 10µF capacitor at pin 10 of
siliconchip.com.au
IC2c is discharged and since this is
lower than pin 9, IC2c’s output is high.
As a result, diode D2 pulls pin 13 of
IC2d low, so pin 14 of IC2d is high and
the clock signal cannot be shunted
to 0V by D3. Finally, after about five
seconds, the 10µF capacitor charges
up, IC2c’s output goes high and the
forward/reverse lockout facility operates normally.
Construction
Building the Li’l Pulser is easy, with
all the parts assembled onto a PCB
coded 09107131 and measuring 129.5
x 100.5mm. This is housed in a small
instrument case measuring 140 x 35 x
110mm (W x H x D).
Our prototype used an adhesive
label attached to the plastic panel
supplied with the case for the front
panel. However, we’re making available a PCB front panel (code 09107132)
with blue solder masking, screened
lettering and all the holes pre-drilled
for a really professional finish. This
PCB panel is simply substituted for
the supplied plastic panel.
We’ve also designed a rear-panel
PCB (code 09107133) and this has
solder-masked copper on both sides to
provide heatsinking for the two Mosfets (Q1 & Q2). The mounting areas for
the Mosfets are clear of solder masking
to improve thermal contact and there
are numerous vias between the two
sides of this PCB to improve ventilation and heat transfer out of the case.
This PCB rear panel can be used for
output currents up to about 5A. This
should be more than adequate for the
vast majority of layouts, including
layouts running double-header (or
even triple-header) locos with sound,
steam and lighting.
For layouts requiring more than 5A
(up to 8A maximum), it’s best to use
an aluminium rear panel for improved
heatsinking (as in the prototype). You
will have to cut this aluminium panel
to size (134 x 32 x 1mm) and drill
the holes yourself (details later). The
original plastic panel supplied with
the case is discarded.
Fig.4 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Begin by inspecting the board
carefully for any defects (rare), then
start the assembly by installing the
0.25W resistors. Table 1 shows the
resistor colour codes but you should
also check each one using a digital
multimeter before soldering it to the
PCB.
The diodes (including ZD1) can go
in next. Be sure to use the correct type
at each location and make sure they
are all orientated correctly. That done,
install the capacitors and the two 0.1Ω
July 2013 39
Fig.6: this scope grab shows the operation of IC1a & IC3b.
The green trace is the triangle output from IC1a while
the blue trace is the DC voltage from speed pot VR1. The
resultant pulse (yellow trace) from the output of IC3b is fed
to the gate of Mosfet Q1. This is a low speed setting.
5W resistors (the latter can be mounted
flush against the PCB, as they run only
slightly warm). Take care with the orientation of the electrolytics – they all
go in with their positive leads towards
the rear of the PCB.
Follow with the trimpots, relay,
piezo buzzer (watch its orientation),
switches, potentiometer VR1 and
the DC socket. Don’t get the trimpots
mixed up and be sure to trim VR1’s
shaft to to suit the knob before soldering it to the PCB. The ICs can then be
installed. Make sure their notched
ends face the rear of the PCB as shown
on Fig.4.
Installing the Mosfets
Regulator REG1 can now go in, followed by transistors Q3-Q5. Note that
Q4 is a BC327 while Q3 & Q5 are both
BC337s. Don’t get them mixed up.
Fig.7: this scope grab shows the same signals as in Fig.6
but now the speed voltage from VR1 is higher, leading to
wider positive output pulses from the output of IC3b. This
corresponds to almost maximum speed. You can compare
these scope grabs with the waveforms shown in Fig.2.
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 can now be installed. First, slip the PCB assembly
into the case and secure it by installing
the two rear mounting screws. That
done, slide the rear panel into position, then mount the two Mosfets on
the PCB and temporarily fasten them,
along with their insulating bushes, to
the rear panel using machine screws
and nuts (note: if you are using an
aluminium rear panel, you will first
have to download the artwork from
the SILICON CHIP website and use it as
a template drill the necessary holes).
Check that the rear panel is pushed
all the way down into its case slot, then
carefully tack solder the two outside
leads of each Mosfet to their pads on
the top of the PCB. The PCB assembly
can then be removed from the case
and the Mosfet leads soldered on the
underside.
The next step is to fit PC stakes to the
four external wiring points and to the
three test points (TP1, TP2 & TP GND).
Follow with the two fuse clips, making sure that each goes in with its end
stop towards the outside (otherwise
you will not be able to install the fuse).
Installing the LEDs
The PCB assembly can now be
completed by fitting the three LEDs
(LEDs1-3). Use the bi-colour LED for
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
22nF
10nF
µF Value IEC Code EIA Code
0.22µF 220n
224
0.1µF
100n
104
0.022µF 22n
223
0.01µF
10n
103
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
4
2
9
5
3
2
2
1
2
40 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
470kΩ
220kΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
10Ω
0.1Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
red red yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown black black brown
not applicable
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
red red black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black gold brown
not applicable
siliconchip.com.au
The rear panel carries
the four binding posts
for the power supply
and track connections.
An on-board DC socket
is also accessible via
a hole in the rear
panel and can be used
instead of the red and
black binding posts for
currents up to about 4A.
LED1 (Track), the red LED for LED2
(Reverse) and the green LED for LED3
(Power).
To install the LEDs, first orientate
each one in turn so that its anode lead
is on the left (as viewed from the front),
then bend its leads down by 90° about
8mm from its body. That done, solder
the LEDs in place with their horizontal
lead sections 5mm above the surface
of the PCB (ie, in line with the switch
centres).
The easiest way to achieve this is to
cut a 5mm-thick cardboard spacer and
simply push the LEDs down onto this
before soldering their leads.
Final assembly
Now for the final assembly. The
first step is to wind a nut onto VR1’s
threaded bush. Do this nut all the
way up, then fit the front panel to the
PCB assembly and secure it by fitting
a second nut to VR1 (make sure the
switches and LEDs all correctly protrude through the front panel before
fitting this nut).
Next, fit the four binding posts to
the rear panel – red for the +12-19V
terminal, black for 0V and white for the
two track posts. Once they’re secure,
attach a 45° 6.3mm chassis-mount
spade terminal to each binding post
and secure it using the two small endnuts (see photo).
The spade terminal ends close to the
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Making Your Own Rear Panel
An aluminium rear panel will be necessary if you intend using the Li’l Pulser
to deliver currents above 5A. This panel
should be 1mm thick and should be cut
to 134 x 30mm.
Once you’ve cut the panel to size,
download the rear-panel artwork (see
Fig.10) from the SILICON CHIP website
at www.siliconchip.com.au (go to
“Shop”, then “Panel artwork”). Print this
out onto both plain paper and photo
paper.
The paper version is used as the
drilling template while the photo paper
version is used as the label. Use a small
pilot drill to start the holes, then carefully
end-nuts should now all be trimmed
so that the don’t later interfere with
the relay and the DC socket when it’s
all assembled in the case. This can
be done using tin-snips and then filing them down. In addition, you will
have to trim the ends of the posts so
that they protrude no more than about
1.5mm beyond the end-nuts.
If you can only get double-ended
spade terminals, it’s simply a matter
of cutting off the unwanted terminals.
Once the spade terminals are in
place, they can be connected to their
respective PCB stakes via short lengths
enlarge them to size as necessary using
larger drills and a tapered reamer.
Once the holes have been drilled,
the label can be affixed to the lid using
a suitable glue or silicone. The holes in
the label can be cut out using a sharp
hobby knife.
Another alternative is to discard the
case altogether and mount the PCB
assembly under the layout. You could
then mount the speed pot, switches and
LEDs on a separate control panel and
connect them back to the PCB via flying
leads. The two Mosfets can then either
be mounted on an aluminium heatsink
or fitted with small finned heatsinks.
of heavy-duty (8A) hook-up wire. Solder these wires to the PCB stakes first,
then fit short lengths of heatshrink
sleeving over the connections and
shrink it down. This will stop the leads
from flexing and breaking at the stakes.
The other ends of the wires are then
soldered to the spade terminals.
That done, the completed assembly
can be installed in the case and the
PCB secured to the four corner pillars in the base using four M3 x 5mm
screws. Don’t worry if the positive
binding post terminal touches the
adjacent fuse clip, as these are conJuly 2013 41
Another view inside the proto
type. Mosfets Q1 & Q2 must be
isolated from the rear panel,
regardless as to the type of panel
used (aluminium or PCB).
nected together on
the PCB anyway, so it
doesn’t matter.
Securing the Mosfets
Regardless as to which type of rear
panel is used (PCB or aluminium),
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 must both be attached
using an insulating bush, insulating
washer and an M3 x 10mm screw &
Fig.8: these scope waveforms were taken at the gate and
drain of Mosfet Q1 to show its switching action. The
yellow trace is the gate waveform from IC3b while the
green trace is at the drain and shows the pulses applied to
the track, with a resistive load connected. Note that when
the gate is positive, the Mosfet switches on and pulls its
drain low.
42 Silicon Chip
Fig.9: these scope waveforms are again from the gate and
drain of Mosfet Q1 but with a 12V permanent magnet motor
connected. The green trace shows that when the Mosfet
switches off, the voltage at the drain immediately rises to
about 17V but then drops due to the back-EMF generated by
the motor. At a higher throttle setting, the back-EMF would
be higher, leading to a greater drop at Q1’s drain.
siliconchip.com.au
A hole can be drilled in the lid of the case, above the piezo buzzer, to let the
sound escape. The buzzer provides audible indication of a track short circuit.
nut. This is necessary to isolate their
metal tabs from the panel. Fig.5 shows
the mounting details.
Once they are secured in place,
check that their metal tabs are indeed
electrically isolated from the PCB
copper (or rear panel) using a digital
multimeter set to a high ohms range.
In each case, you should get a high
megohms (or open circuit) reading. If
not, undo the assembly and locate the
source of the problem.
Finally, a 6mm hole can be drilled
in the lid of the case directly above the
piezo siren, to let the sound out when
an overload is detected. Be careful
when marking out the position of this
hole for drilling – the lid will only fit
correctly in one direction.
Testing
As mentioned earlier, the Li’l Pulser
train controller can be powered from
a train power supply, a 12V battery
charger or from a 15-19V switchmode
laptop PC power supply. The current
rating of the supply will depend on
your individual requirements but
around 5A will be more than sufficient
for most applications. However, you
will need a supply with an 8A rating
if you want the Li’l Pulser to deliver
its maximum 8A output capability.
Before connecting the supply, go
over your work carefully and check
that all parts are in their correct locations and that all polarised parts are
The final adjustments involve adjusting the minimum track voltage
setting, setting the maximum speed
and adjusting the inertia and braking
trimpots. The steps are as follows:
(1) Set the speed pot (VR1) to minimum and connect the Li’l Pulser controller to length of track with a loco.
(2) Monitor test point TP1 and adjust
trimpot VR6 for a reading of 6V.
(3) With the speed pot at minimum,
adjust VR2 fully anticlockwise and
then slowly clockwise until there is
a small amount of track voltage as
indicated by noise in the loco motor.
Back off the trimpot just a little from
that point.
(4) Remove the loco from the track,
wind the speed pot fully clockwise
and measure the DC voltage across
the track terminals. Adjust VR3 for
the maximum required track voltage.
This is usually set for 12V but you may
wish to make this lower to limit the
maximum speed of the locos.
(5) With the loco back on the track,
check that it runs smoothly as the
speed control is advanced. Adjust the
inertia trimpot (VR4) and the brake
trimpot (VR5) to give the required
simulated inertia when accelerating
and braking.
Note that advancing VR4 past its
mid-setting can also have an effect on
the minimum speed. That means you
may need to readjust the minimum
and maximum speed settings (steps 3
SC
& 4 above) after adjusting VR4.
0V
+12 -19V
Track
+
.
siliconchip.com.au
Final adjustments
Power In
Fig.10: this rear-panel artwork
can be copied or downloaded
from the SILICON CHIP website
and used as a drilling template
for an aluminium rear panel.
For output currents up to 5A,
use the suggested PCB rear
panel (see text).
the right way around. That done, connect the supply to either the DC socket
or to the red and black binding posts.
As stated, the DC socket is only rated
up to about 4A. If your supply has a
higher current rating, use the binding
posts to make the supply connections.
The unit can now be checked out by
following this step-by-step procedure:
(1) Apply power and check that there is
12V between pins 8 & 4 of IC1 (LM358).
(2) Wind the speed pot (VR1) fully
anticlockwise and adjust all trimpots
to mid setting.
(3) Check that the brake, inertia and
reverse switches are all off (ie, in the
up position), then advance the speed
pot and check that the track LED lights
green. Check that it gets brighter as you
wind up the throttle.
(4) Leave the speed pot at a high setting, switch to reverse and check that
the reverse LED (LED2) stays off (ie,
because of the lockout).
(5) Wind the speed pot down and
check that the reverse LED lights when
the pot is almost fully anticlockwise.
Now wind the speed pot up again;
the track LED (LED1) should now be
glowing red.
If that all checks out, then the Li’l
Pulser is working correctly and you
can proceed to set the current limit.
That’s done as follows:
(1) Connect a multimeter between TP2
and TP GND.
(2) Adjust VR7 for a reading of 50mV
for each amp of the required current
limit. For example, adjust VR7 for a
reading of 150mV for a 3A current
limit. Similarly, a 400mV reading will
give the maximum 8A current limit.
(3) Short the output terminals and
slowly advance the speed pot. Check
that the piezo alarm sounds to indicate
a short. Note that the fuse should be
changed to a lower rating if the current limit (and/or the supply rating) is
lower than 8A. Use a fuse rating that
corresponds to the current rating of
the supply and set the current limit
to be equal to or less than this value.
July 2013 43
Secure Digital Cards
– Clearing Up the Confusion
Secure Digital cards and their smaller siblings,
Mini and MicroSD cards have become the defacto
standard for flash memory storage, winning out
over competitors such as Compact Flash due to
their smaller size, constantly increasing speed and
capacity as well as widespread device support.
But there are many different kinds of SD card and
here we take a look at the differences between them
and some of the technology behind them.
T
ake a look on the shelf of a store
selling flash memory cards (or
on the web page of an online
retailer) and you will find many different kinds of SD cards: SD, SDHC
and SDXC with a speed rating of Class
0, Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, Class 10,
UHS-I (ultra high-speed) and so on.
Each type is generally available in a
variety of capacities and brands in
both full-size, mini and micro format.
MiniSD and MicroSD cards, by the
way, can be be used in devices expecting full-size SD cards with the use of
a passive adaptor.
In many cases, this adaptor, which is
exactly the same size as a standard SD
card, comes with the Mini or MicroSD card.
That’s a lot of different options
– possibly hundreds. The various
“classes” refer to the read/write speed
that the card can manage and this is
important if you are going to use it
in a video camera or digital SLR still
camera - especially with a video camera as a slow card will limit the video
quality you can record at.
Just how fast the card needs to be for
a video camera depends on the shooting resolution (eg, 640x480, 1280x720
[720p] or 1920x1080 [1080p]), the
44 Silicon Chip
A micro
SD card,
also known as
a “Transflash”
Card.
frame rate and the video compression format being used. Some newer
cameras can even record in resolutions
above 1080p such as “2.7K” (eg, GoPro
Hero 3 Black). The SD card being used
for recording needs to be pretty fast
to keep up.
The main difference between SD,
SDHC and SDXC is the maximum
capacity that type of card can have,
although higher transfer speeds are
also restricted to the newer SDHC
and SDXC formats. But some devices
may not support all the latest types
of SD card; generally this will mean
the performance is restricted although
in some cases, it may not work at all.
Card classes
Some SD cards indicate a speed in
MB/s, or relative to CD speeds (eg,
by Nicholas Vinen
600x = 90MB/s). But those ratings can
be a bit “optimistic” so the SD Card
Association came up with an official
class rating system.
If a card is “Class 0” or doesn’t indicate a class at all (and isn’t a UHS
type) then that means the speed isn’t
guaranteed. It isn’t very common to
see such a device any more and this
type of card would best be used in an
application where speed is not critical,
eg, data logging.
Cards labelled class 2, 4, 6 or 10
(the logo being a number inside a big
“C”) indicate the minimum sustained
write speed, in megabytes per second,
of the card in an unfragmented state. In
addition, classes 2, 4 and 6 assert that
the card’s write speed must degrade
gracefully as the free space on the card
becomes increasingly fragmented.
This occurs as files are repeatedly
written and deleted.
Class 2 is reckoned to be fast enough
for recording standard definition video
while class 4 is required for HD video.
Class 6 offers improved HD recording
quality or higher frame rates.
Class 10 is identical to class 6 except
in the case where the recording is going to a completely empty area of the
SD card (eg, after formatting the card),
siliconchip.com.au
where the minimum continuous write
speed must be at least 10MB/s.
Card labelled UHS-I or UHS-II use a
faster interface with the host device/
computer and generally are indicated
as either “speed grade 0” (<10MB/s)
or “speed grade 1” (>10MB/s). This
latter speed grade is indicated with
a 1 inside a U and most UHS-I cards
will manage at least 10MB/s. This is
effectively the same as Class 10.
Note that to achieve the rated performance, you must used a particular
file system on the card, for reasons
explained below.
That means you shouldn’t reformat
an SD card unless it is absolutely
necessary, as the newly formatted file
system may not be the correct one for
best performance. If you must format
it, there is a utility available from the
SD Card Association (see link at end of
article) which will do the job properly.
Card types and file systems
The latest type of SD card is called
SDXC for eXtended Capacity which
allows capacities up to 2048GB (2TB).
The previous generation is SDHC for
High Capacity which supports up to
32GB. There is some cross-over with
32GB cards available in both types.
Besides the increased maximum
capacity, there is relatively little difference between SDHC and SDXC
cards. In fact they are similar enough
that SDXC cards up to 128GB will
work in some devices designed before
SDXC came along. The main issue
with backwards-compatibility is in
the file system.
All SDXC cards come formatted
with exFAT which is a new version
of the FAT file system (“file allocation
table”), designed to support higher
capacities.
Unfortunately, this is not a licensefree format and it is currently proprietary to Microsoft although some
third-party software allows access to
exFAT from other operating systems
such as Linux.
This also means though that older
versions of Windows (before Vista SP1)
and MacOS will not be able to access
the contents of SDXC cards.
However, FAT32 actually works
for capacities up to about 2TB. So for
SDXC cards, you have the option to
re-format them with FAT32 and they
will then work in most devices, with
the caveat that the maximum file size
is then 4GB.
siliconchip.com.au
Other types of flash memory cards
There have been several different types of flash memory cards developed
over the years (years? They’ve only been around since the mid 1990s!)
SD cards, which this article has concentrated on, might be the most popular
but they are in fact a spin-off from the earlier MMC or multi-media card. It’s getting
difficult to find MMC cards these days because of the popularity
of
SD cards. The two are often considered interchangeable but
that’s not strictly true. SD cards are thicker than MMC (2.1mm
vs 1.4mm) so MMC cards will usually fit into a dedicated
SD reader; the reverse is usually not true. The file structure
is also slightly different but the main difference between
the two is that “secure” area (hence SD card) which was
first developed for digital rights management in music, etc.
Transflash is simply another name for microSD cards.
Still fairly popular and relatively easy to get are Compact Flash
cards, although they too have largely given way to SD cards. The
main reason for this is size – CF cards (there are actually two, CFI
and CFII) are significantly larger than even standard SD cards;
the difference between CF and micro SD is quite
dramatic. 32GB CF cards are common, 64GB
are also available but not common. Expect
to pay between $200 and $300 for a “brand
name” 64GB CF Card; by contrast a “brand
name” 64GB Class 10 SD card shouldn’t
cost much more than
$100 and we’ve seen
them for as low as
$40. But compare
these to the latest Lexar
256GB C10 (600x speed) SDs
which sell for close to $1000!
Another card which was (briefly!) popular
was the SmartMedia Card. As far as we can tell, the
maximum size this card was ever made in was 128MB
(yes, megabytes) and even in their day, were expensive.
Similarly the MiniCard went the way of the dodo, despite being promoted as “the standard” back in the mid 90s. Its main claim to fame was
that it used the PCMCIA (later PC) bus, though this did not lead to its longevity!
Some manufacturers have tried to be clever by bringing out their own proprietary flash memory cards to lock others out of their systems. Companies such
as Sony with their Memory Stick and Memory Stick Pro, and the Fuji/Olympus
XD card, are two such examples.
Once again, proprietary cards were usually more
expensive (often significantly so) than their SD counterparts and the XD card, for example, was never available
with more than 2GB capacity. While physically smaller
than SD cards, XD cards are nevertheless larger than
mini or micro SD. Newer models of Fuji/Olympus cameras
support both XD and SD or, lately, SD only.
Similar comments can be made for Sony’s Memory
Stick and Memory Stick Pro – their latest cameras support both their stick and SD cards. And Sony has also
released their own SD cards. However, Sony still supports
the Memory Stick format, which is currently available up to 64GB and
has a maximum theoretical size of 2TB (Memory Stick Pro). A 64GB model
usually sells for around $100.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of all types of flash memory cards.
Wikipedia, for example, lists 25 different card types, although several of these
have sunk without trace and others may not be available in this country.
SD cards – in all their iterations – remain a pretty safe bet . . . at least until
something newer and better comes along!
July 2013 45
Maximum Power (W) (light blue: optional for SDXC cards)
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
0
All SD Cards
default speed mode (3.3V)
high speed mode (3.3V)
3
UHS-I (UHS50) SD Cards
single data rate/12 (1.8V)
single data rate/25 (1.8V)
single data rate/50 (1.8V)
double data rate/50 (1.8V)
UHS-I (UHS104) SD Cards
single data rate/104 (1.8V)
UHS-II SD Cards
full duplex/156 (1.8V)
(optional) half duplex/312 (1.8V)
0
25
50
75 100 125 150 175 200 225 250 275 300
Transfer Speed (MB/s) Frequency (MHz)
Fig.1: peak read/write speeds for SD cards in various modes. Each type of card
should support the modes listed above it, ie, UHS104 cards also support the
modes for UHS50 and regular SD cards. Transfer speed is shown in red (bottom
scale) and clock frequency in blue (bottom scale) while maximum power
consumption is in cyan (top scale).
But there are a couple of problems
with reformatting SD cards. Problem
number one is that for some unknown
reason, most versions of Windows
refuse to format a volume larger than
32GB with the FAT32 file system –
even though they will happily read
and write such a volume.
This can be solved by the use of a
third-party formatting utility such as
“guiformat”, which is a graphical version of “fat32format” (www.ridgecrop.
demon.co.uk/guiformat.htm).
The other problem is that reformatting an SD card with a different file
system (or even different options)
can seriously impact its performance.
That’s because, for efficient writing of
large files, the card controller needs to
know which flash blocks are free and
which are used. That’s so when writ-
Actual size
comparison between
the original SD card,
(top, 32 x 24mm),
a MiniSD, (centre,
21.5 x 20mm) and a
MicroSD, (bottom,
11 x 15mm). Card
capacity has no
bearing on
dimensions.
Only the standard SD
card features a write/
erase lock (left side).
46 Silicon Chip
ing a partial block, it knows whether
or not it has to preserve the rest of the
block, which takes extra time.
Since all SDXC cards are designed
for use with exFAT, when reformatted
with FAT32 writing may be dramatically slower. Also, the “wear levelling”
algorithm may not work as well, leading to a shortened life. We’ll explain
that later.
Protected area
So what makes Secure Digital cards
“secure” exactly?
It’s the protected area, which we
believe is hardly ever used any more.
This allows data to be stored in an
encrypted format and is supposed to
be used to restrict access to copyright
content on an SD card.
The stated capacity of an SD card
includes this protected area, which is
why you can never quite fit as much on
an SD card as you think you should.
As SD card capacities have increased (and, we suspect, manufacturers have realised how few applications
there are for this protected area), the
proportion of the flash memory available for general storage has increased.
For example, a 4GB Toshiba SDHC
card has a 32MB protected area (0.8%)
while their 8GB card has a 48MB protected area (0.6%).
High-speed interfaces
The UHS-I and UHS-II high-speed
interfaces were introduced along
with the new SDXC card format but
support for them is optional. SDHC
cards may optionally support UHS
modes as well.
The main difference between them
is that UHS-I is physically compatible
with the older SD card interface and offers somewhat higher speed operation
while UHS-II introduces additional
contacts on the card and so requires
a new type of socket but offers higher
speeds again.
Before UHS-I, the fastest speed SD
card interface available was “high
speed” mode, giving a burst speed up
to 25MB/s (see Fig.1). UHS-I introduces several new modes, all operating
with 1.8V signalling.
It is well known that lower voltage
signalling allows higher transmission
speeds, due to slew rate limitations
such as parasitic capacitance and so
on. So UHS-I doubles the maximum
speed, to 50MB/s.
This can be achieved either with a
doubling of the clock, up to 100MHz,
or else by sticking with the same
50MHz clock rate as before but transferring four bits of data on both the
rising and falling edge of the clock
signal, ie, double data rate (DDR). This
is a common technique and has been
in common use for PC RAM for over
ten years now.
In either case, the UHS-I card is
allowed to draw up to 1.44W while
active or nearly 500mA at 3.3V, twice
what a regular high-speed SD card is
allowed to draw (ie, 0.72W) and four
times the maximum that a regular SD
card normally draws in low-speed
mode (0.36W).
While signalling in the UHS-I modes
occurs at 1.8V, the card still runs off
3.3V. It must step down this voltage
internally and this provides one of
While SD cards have dramatically
increased in capacity over the years,
they’ve shrunk in size – first to mini,
as seen above, and more recently
to micro (or Transflash). This has
enabled backwards compatibility
using adaptor as seen at right (in this
case for MiniSD) Mini or Micro SD
cards slide inside the adaptor and so
can be used in devices with full-size
SD card sockets.
siliconchip.com.au
Demonstrating just
how little space is
actually used inside
the SD card, this
32GB Transcend
model also houses
a complete WiFi
transceiver, which
allows you to send
your photos direct
to you computer
without the card ever leaving your
camera. We reviewed the original
“Eye-Fi” Connect X2 SD card back in
the October 2010 issue – it was only a
4GB card and the storage (ie, SD) side
has since failed with constant use.
the limitations for UHS-I performance
and is why UHS-II was devised at the
same time.
Even faster cards
Faster UHS-I cards can optionally
support UHS104 mode. In this mode,
the card can draw even more power,
up to 2.88W or nearly 1A. Maximum
transfer rate is increased again, to
104MB/s by a further increase in the
clock rate to a maximum of 208MHz.
UHS104 mode does not support DDR.
To operate correctly with such a
high clock frequency, the SD card host
must first interrogate the card for some
“tuning” information which tells it
about the timings for this specific card,
possibly including calibration values
programmed into the card at the factory to account for process variations
and other factors. The host must then
adjust its signal timing to match for
reliable transfers.
Despite all these new modes, UHS-I
cards (and indeed UHS-II cards) generally remain backwards-compatible
with older host devices.
That’s because most of these new
features must be activated by the host,
once it has determined that the card
supports them.
When first powered up, these cards
initially operate in the standard, lowspeed mode and the specification
requires them to support all the older
modes including the regular highspeed mode and so on.
So to get the advantages of the new
high speed modes, both the card and
host device must support them. And
of course, the flash in the card has to
be fast enough, otherwise faster signalling doesn’t get you anything much.
In fact, a UHS-I card is not necessarily any faster than a Class 10
siliconchip.com.au
How much can you store on an SD Card?
2 GB
4 GB
8 GB
16 GB
32 GB
20m
30m
45m
40m
60m
60m
80m
120m
180m
160m
240m
360m
320m
480m
720m
770
1,540
3,080
6,160
12,320
Movies (minutes)
(Hi-def movie recording MPEG-4; H.264)
Fine mode (13Mbps/CBR)
Normal mode (9Mbps/VBR)
Economy mode (6Mbps/VBR)
Photos (number)
(10 Megapixels, 3648x2736, Fine mode)
Music (hours and minutes)
(ACC, MP3 HQ mode, 128Kbps)
34h 7m 68h 14m 136h 27m 272h 54m
545h 48m
Typical capacities of various size SD cards for movies, photos and music. Actual
capacities may vary, depending on file size and compression used.
SD card or even a Class 6 card.
Many newer devices such as digital
cameras support UHS-I cards and there
are quite a few such cards now available, some claiming transfer speeds
of up to 90MB/s in ideal conditions.
While not part of the official SD
specifications, because UHS-I/Class
10 are so vague as to the actual performance of the card, some manufacturers
still specify the peak speed in order
to differentiate their products from
slower competitors which may be in
the same class.
Yet more speed
UHS-II adds eight new pads to the
SD card: three grounds, a dedicated
1.8V supply and two pairs of differential signalling lines. Differential signalling is another common technique
for increasing transfer speeds and is
used by USB, Ethernet, PCI Express,
HyperTransport and many other communication technologies.
The two signalling “lanes” can
be used either to send and receive
data simultaneously (full duplex) or
The number inside
the “C” symbol
(ringed in red here)
shows the speed of
the card – in this
case, it’s a Class 10
which is suitable
for use in video
cameras and similar
devices requiring a
high speed data transfer. If there is no
symbol shown (as in the card on the
opposite page) no claim is made to its
class (speed) and therefore it can be
assumed to be the lowest speed. Such
cards are cheap but they are really
only suitable for non-demanding
applications such as data logging.
configured to operate in the same
direction for faster reading or writing
(half duplex).
UHS-2 is similar to the commonly
used LVDS (low voltage differential
signalling) protocol but with an even
lower voltage swing. The signal lines
are operated as transmission lines to
allow such a high speed and by sending one bit at a time, edge alignment of
multiple signals due to different path
lengths is no longer an issue.
In UHS-II mode, the normal SD
card power supply contact remains at
3.3V and a differential clock signal is
applied to pads 7 and 8, which were
previously used for data transmission.
This clock operates at a fraction of the
data transmission frequency, generally
25-50MHz, while the data signals can
be up to 1.5Gbps.
Obviously UHS-II operation is quite
different from UHS-I but the cards will
be backwards compatible. We aren’t
aware of any UHS-II cards on the
market just yet, nor any devices which
can take advantage of them.
Wear levelling
Flash memory does not have an
infinite life – there is a limit to how
many times a block of flash can be
written to before it becomes unreliable, ranging from as few as 100 up to
millions of times.
So most flash memory storage devices use some kind of “wear levelling”, which “spreads the load” of data
storage to areas of the device which
might otherwise remain unused.
Consider an SD card used in a digital
camera, where a few photos are taken
each time the camera is used and those
files are then moved off onto a computer. New files are normally placed
at the beginning of the card.
July 2013 47
What causes memory card failure?
Memory card failure happens more often than we would
like. We are referring to both data corruption and a complete
loss of function (and thus data). The most obvious cause
would be physical damage; SD cards are small enough that
they can easily be dropped, stepped on, bent, split open
and so on. There’s only one way to avoid that and that’s to
handle with care! Incidentally, the SD card standard calls
for them to be able to handle just a 3m drop.
We’ve also heard that physical wear can be an issue, ie, if
you insert and remove an SD card often enough, the contacts
can wear out, both on the card and in the host device. You’d
have to be doing an awful lot of insertions and removals to
end up in that situation though.
Ignoring physical damage, you have two classes of failure.
The first is where the memory card itself works fine but files
inexplicably vanish or in the worst case, the card isn’t even
recognised as valid by the computer. This can happen if
the card has been removed from a device while it is being
written to, due to a bug in a device you have plugged it into
or when it’s on the verge of failure from the flash memory
reaching its end-of-life.
If the card is still recognised but files are missing or otherwise corrupt, you can try using one of the various pieces
of software which attempt to recover files from damaged
cards. There are many free ones available, some of which
works quite well and others which... don’t.
The simplest type of recovery you can attempt is to simply
check the device for file system errors and recover any “lost”
files. This can often be done simply by running a “scandisk”
tool on it, which is generally built into your operating system.
So if data is simply stored in a block
based on its storage address, that area
of flash will be constantly written
to while the rest may be left largely
untouched.
Even though there’s plenty of working memory remaining, if these first
blocks are used again and again the
card will quickly become useless.
The primarily solution is to rearrange where data is stored in the flash
memory and keep track of what is
stored where using a mapping table
which says where data was written
to versus where it is actually stored.
This way, the controller can perform
subsequent writes to different flash
blocks even if they are at the same
storage address.
So writes can be spread out evenly
among the flash blocks and thus you
get the maximum possible lifespan. In
other words, this technique evens out
how quickly the flash blocks wear out,
hence “wear levelling”.
But for this to work, the controller
must know which blocks are free;
it can only cycle through writing to
unoccupied blocks of flash. So if the
48 Silicon Chip
In Windows, this is accessed by right-clicking on the drive
letter, going to the Properties dialog and then the Tools tab
and clicking the “Check now” button.
If you’re lucky, the missing files will be placed in the root
directory or in a folder created for them. Their file names
may be scrambled but hopefully the contents are OK.
You could also try a program like CardRecovery/CardRescue or one of the other programs available on the ’net for
this type of job. Some are free while others may have a trial
version that will at least let you check that you can recover
some files before forking out for the full version.
Sometimes, the SD card controller or flash memory
chip can fail entirely. The result is usually that the card is
no longer detected as valid in any device. Windows Disk
Management may not listed or if it is listed, shown it as “No
Media” or containing no valid partitions.
If there’s important data on it, your only choice then is to
go to a recovery professional (look up “data recovery” in the
Yellow Pages). This won’t be cheap but they should have
specialised gear and thus are likely to be able to get some
or all of your data back. If there isn’t any critical data on it,
you’re better off binning and buying a new (and probably
bigger and faster) card.
Besides manufacturing faults, the most likely reason for
the total electrical failure of a memory card is either a static
discharge to its contacts or voltage spike from something
you plugged it into.
If you have more than one card fail, you may may have a
faulty piece of gear which is damaging them; possibly the
last thing you used that card in.
card is nearly full or if a file system
is used that the controller doesn’t
understand then wear levelling is no
longer effective.
A related strategy used to extend
flash life is to have more flash blocks
than necessary for the stated capacity
of the device (say 1% extra).
Some blocks of flash in use may
wear out much sooner than others and
when that happens, these can simply
be marked as bad and skipped over. As
long as there are enough spare blocks
left, there’s still enough space to store
the full data capacity.
It’s possible for the controller to
determine when a block is going to
Something you’d
hope to never see: the
inside of a typical SD card.
The large “hynix” chip at the
bottom is the actual flash memory (in
this case 16Gbit); the smaller “blob”
above it would be the controller.
wear out when reading it based on
how close the stored voltages are to the
thresholds which determine whether
a given bit is read as a zero or a one.
If this voltage (which changes with
use) is too close to the threshold then
the block can no longer be considered
reliable and can be disabled.
Further details
The SD card standard is rather
complex; the simplified version runs
to 186 pages and this covers only
the electrical characteristics of the
cards themselves. The host controller specification is separate, as is the
description of the protected area and
the various extensions to the standard
such as SDIO (for WiFi and Bluetooth
adaptors in the SD card format).
Hopefully we’ve covered the more
salient points here and given readers
the knowledge required to work out
which card to buy for a given application.
For more information, refer to the
SD Card Association website – and
specifically the downloads page, at
www.sdcard.org/downloads/pls/ SC
siliconchip.com.au
P
23 vali rice
/0 d u s
7/ nt
20 il
13
ED JUL
IT Y
IO
N
WINTER
PROJECTS
DIY Electronics Tool Kit
An awesome DIY electronics tool kit
which includes a 19 range digital
multimeter (QM-1523 $14.95),
20/130W soldering iron starter kit
(TS-1651 $24.95), 7 screwdrivers
(TD-2022 $19.95) that are
approved to 1000V. Five stainless
steel 115mm cutters and pliers
(TH-1812 $29.95)
and a 4 Tray tool
storage case
(HB-6302 $16.95).
$
84
Total
Package
valued at
$106.75 save
$21.80
Designed for small surveillance systems in the home or office.
Capable of recording full D1 (704 x 576) resolution at 25 frames
per second on each channel. Supplied with a 500GB HDD to store
up to 300 hours of continuous video it can also be configured to trigger
from a timer or motion detection. Connect to a computer network to view
video remotely using a web browser or Smartphone/iPhone®
(via installed app). See in-store for range of cameras.
• H.264 Compression
• Composite and VGA video output
• Size: 300(L) x 210(W) x 50(H)mm
QV-3029 was $279.00
$
24900
SAVE $30
Desk Mount LED Laboratory
Magnifier Lamp
95
Arduino Experimenters Kit
Learn about the exciting new world of
Arduino with these easy to
build projects. From
flashing an LED to
moving things with
a servo. Complete
with instructions and a
supporting web page and
software examples.
• No soldering required
XC-4262
Economy 4 Channel DVR
$
THOUSANDS
SOLD!
89
95
USB Port Voltage Checker Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine July 2013
An easy way to test a USB port to see if it is dead, faulty or
incorrectly wired to help prevent damaging a valuable USB
device you plan to connect. Voltage is indicated using three
LEDs. Kit supplied with double sided, soldermasked and
screen-printed PCB with SMDs
pre-soldered, clear heatshrink,
NEW
USB connectors and components
$
95
for USB 2.0 & 3.0.
High quality, all metal frame
construction magnifier
which features 90 super
bright LEDs and handle for
quick repositioning. A great tool
to assist PCB assembly/inspection,
jewellers, stamp/coin dealers, etc.
• 120mm, 3 x magnification lens
• 2m long cord
• Mains powered
• Total extended length 900mm
QM-3546
A range of mobile LED work lights for those who need
lots of light without a mains
connection. Built-in
rechargeable batteries.
RECHARGEABLE
• Burn time: up to 4-5 hours
• IP65 rating
• Mains charger included
30W 1500 Lumen Work Light
NEW
$
11900
25W Soldering Iron Starter Kit
The ideal starter package for electronics enthusiasts
or the home handyman. Includes a digital multimeter,
soldering iron, de-soldering tool, screwdrivers, pliers
and side cutters.
• 25W
TS-1652
Rechargeable LED Work and
Floodlights
$
3495
• Size: 350(H) x 210(W) x
219(D)mm
SL-2886 $139.00
10W 500 Lumen Floodlight
30W 1500 Lumen Floodlight
• Size: 225(L) x 185(W) x
125(D)mm
SL-2889 $129.00
NEW
FROM
$
29
SL-2886
• Size: 115(L) x 85(W) x
85(D)mm
SL-2887 $69.95
6995
SL-2887/SL-2889
• PCB: 44 x 17mm
KC-5522
JAYCAR ROCKINGHAM WA
DUE EARLY JULY
We have MOVED!
5MP USB 2.0 Digital
Microscope with Stand
The microscope can capture images up to 5MP
(2592 x 1944) and video at 1280 x 960 pixels.
Excellent for educational purposes or a myriad of
practical applications such as technicians, jewellers,
laboratory work, and much more.
• Still image capture resolution:
2592 x 1944, 2048 x 1536,
1600 x 1200, 1280
x 960 pixels
• Microscope size:
110(L) x 33(Dia.)mm
QC-3199
NEW
$
12900
Video Doorphone with RFID Access
All the standard doorphone features to screen
visitors at your door, and an RFID sensor so frequent
users can enter using an RFID tag. Includes one
regular RFID tag and two tags to program & remove
tags from the system. Door locks are available
separately to remotely lock/unlock the
door. Cat5/6 cable required between
camera and monitor.
• 2.5" colour LCD
• Monitor size: 180(H)
x 79(W) x 33(D)mm
QC-3622
NEW
$
24900
Spare RFID tag available separately
QC-3623 NEW $9.95
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
Cnr Read &
Patterson Rd
Rockingham
6188 WA
Ph: (08) 9592 8000
Osram LED Torch
High brightness torch featuring
6 x ultra bright warm white
Olson Osram LEDs.
Great addition to
your fishing tackle
box or keep one in
the car for emergency
situations.
• Requires 4 x AA batteries
• Size: 190(L) x 60(Dia.)mm
ST-3486
NEW
$
95
19
July 2013 49
www.jaycar.com.au
WORKBENCH EQUIPMENT
Digital Storage Oscilloscopes
10MHz Handheld
Scope DMM
• Includes 2 x 10:1 probes, EasyScope interface
software and USB cable
Smartly combines a well featured
digital oscilloscope and a 4,000
count True RMS digital multimeter
into one versatile package. Features
a USB interface and PC logging
software to match. Perfect for
laboratory work or for technicians
working in the field.
• 128 x 128 graphic LCD display
• Autoranging
• Size: 186(L) x 86(W) x 32(D)mm
QM-1577
Ideal for the advanced
hobby user or
technician and is
particularly suited to
audio work. See online
for more details.
$
399
00
Dataloggers
These USB dataloggers log temperature and humidity
readings and store them in internal memory for later
download to a PC. The measurement interval is
adjustable - simply set up the recording parameters
then download the data when needed.
• Mounting bracket and software included
• Direct plug-in type
• 32,000 memory samples
• Size: 100(L) x 22(W) x 20(H)mm
QP-6013 was $119.00
Ideal for chassis-bashing and all
sorts of hobby applications. Cut,
notch or trim simple or complex
shaped holes in plastics,
laminates, leather or metal.
• USB / LCD readout type
• 32,700 memory samples
• Size: 95(H) x 50(W) x 32(D)mm
QP-6014 was $179.00
5995
SAVE $10
This strong lightweight aluminium
vice will clamp to surfaces up to
1" (25mm) thick and hold material
up to 2" (50mm) thick. Great for hobby
work or for repairs
on the go.
$
95
TH-1764
An extra pair of hands and
eyes for those fiddly jobs.
Supports PCBs while soldering
etc. Features 90mm magnifying
glass and two alligator clips.
• Over 1.8kg
XB-9000
$
• Size: 78(L) x 98(W) x 145(H)mm
TH-1983
12
$
95
24
• Power: 48W
• Temperature
range:
150 - 450˚C
• Lead-free rated
• Size: 150(L) x
115(W) x
92(H)mm
TS-1564
Do Not Disturb Phone Timer Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine May 2013
Stop those annoying and intrusive phone calls when you
don't want to be disturbed. Set the timer duration between
15 to 120 minutes and the caller will get an engaged signal
until the timer times out. Kit supplied with silk-screened
PCB, black enclosure (83 x 54 x 31mm) with label, preprogrammed PIC, PCB mount components and phone lead.
95
$
2995
Garbage and Recycling
Reminder Kit
• Size: 148(W) x
162(D) x 62(H)mm
0 - 24VDC 15A MP-3800
$
14900
0 - 16VDC 25A MP-3802
$
19900
Bargain Capacitor Pack
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine Jan 2013
Easy to build kit that reminds you when to put which
bin out by flashing the corresponding brightly coloured
LED. Up to four bins can be individually set to weekly,
fortnightly or alternate week or fortnight cycle.Kit
supplied with silk-screened PCB, black enclosure (83 x
54 x 31mm), pre-programmed PIC, battery and PCB
mount components.
• PCB size: 75 x 47mm
KC-5518
$
2995
Telephone not included
50 Silicon Chip
To order call 1800 022 888
9900
Compact size, high current, variable output and fan
cooling make these the ideal power supply for your
bench. They are protected against thermal overload
and short circuit and will display a warning LED in
the event of a fault condition.
Current and voltage are
displayed on separate
backlit analogue
meters.
Limited quantity.
Jaycar DIY Kits
$
Switchmode Lab Power
Supplies
An ideal addition to the venerable odds & ends
collection for technicians or enthusiasts. These
bargain bags contain over 1.8kg of components,
doodads, and whats-a-ma-call-its gathered from our
vast array of sources. You are sure to find something
useful and will probably find
something invaluable.
PCB Holder with
Magnifying Glass
84900
SAVE $50
Spare pencil & tips available separately
Large Bargain Bag
SAVE $30
2
$
14
14900
$
Ideal station for the advanced hobby user. It features
accurate analogue temperature adjustment, ceramic
element and a lightweight pencil that will give you
hours of fatigue-free soldering. The stand has
spare tip storage and is very sturdy.
Mini Bench Vice
USB Temperature/Humidity Datalogger with LCD
• 178mm colour TFT LCD
• Size: 340(W) x 150(H) x
110(D)mm
QC-1934 was $899.00
48W Temperature Controlled
Soldering Station
Adel Nibbling Tool
TH-1767 was $39.95
now $29.95 save $10.00
9900
• Five times settings: 15, 30, 60,
90 and 120 minutes
• Automatically returns
phone to "ready"
(on hook) after time-out
• Works with multiple phone
extensions in house
KC-5521
449
00
SAVE $50
Spare punch
SAVE $20
$
$
• Made in USA
TH-1765 was $69.95
USB Temperature/Humidity Datalogger
$
Enhanced performance,
professional level test
instrument for the
technician, design
engineer or development
laboratory. Includes a
carry bag. See online
for more details.
25MHz Dual Channel
• 145mm colour TFT LCD
• Size: 310(W) x
150(H) x 130(D)mm
QC-1932 was $499.00
100MHz Dual Channel with 7" Screen
This pack (which weighs about 500g) is astonishing
value. It has probably over 200 parts (we don’t have
time to count, so you reap the benefit). What we can
say is that it has lots & lots of expensive US made
electrolytics – including a bonus really big one! It
includes German WIMA metallised polyesters, other
plastic film & ceramic types in both axial & single
ended cases. Wire leaded
parts and SMDs. A strong
addition to your parts bin.
RE-6260
$
1495
Limited stock. Be Quick!
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/07/2013.
TOOLS
Non-Contact Thermometer
with Dual Laser Targeting
32 Piece Precision Driver Set
High quality set for all those delicate jobs. Tactile
handle with hardened hex shaft that extends from 140
to 210mm. Ideal for model making, electronics etc.
Measure the temperature of a surface from a
safe distance. Dual laser sighting for accuracy.
Temperature range: -50 to +650 degrees C.
99
$
Used for crimping lug/eye terminals onto heavy gauge
power cables. Features a built in rotating die which
can be rotated to suit terminals for
6/10/16/25/35/50mm2 cable
(10AWG-1/0AWG).
$
95
A handy unit with flame or flameless heat blower
and soldering iron function. Great for
FREE
general heating, drying, melting,
Butane Gas
worth
soldering, heat shrinking etc.
$5.95
This kit contains a Portasol Pro Piezo Gas Soldering Iron,
cleaning sponge and tray, 2.4mm double flat tip, hot air
blow, hot knife tip, hot air
deflector and flame tip.
• Quality storage case
TS-1318
2995
Helps remove dust from electronic,
electrical and optical devices. It does not
leave a residue, is non toxic and non
conductive. Non CFC and
BUY 2 for
nonflammable.
$30 SAVE
$
19
95
12900
Lighting our way to a more energy efficient future
are the new 15W Ecolume LED downlight kits. These
100mm LED downlights are powered by six OSRAM
UX3 LEDs. Each
downlight kit is
supplied with a
dimmable LED driver
and the adjustable
gimbal housing finished
in white colour.
NEW
• Mains powered
• Moulded in dark grey with mounting flange
• Designed to IP65 of IEC529
and NEMS 4 (dust and hose
proof)
HB-6121 $6.95
Box: 64(W) x 58(D) x 35(H)mm
HB-6123 $9.95
Box: 115(W) x 65(D) x 40(H)mm
HB-6138 $10.95
Box: 115(W) x 65(D) x 55(H)mm
NEW
FROM
$
Handy Magnet Strip
• 9 pieces, 750mm long
LM-1624 was $19.95
$
1495
IP65 Diecast
Aluminium Boxes
Sealed aluminium enclosures
for external use are provided
with flanges and holes for wall mounting.
Made from aluminium alloy ADC-10
(JIS) and provides protection against NEW
FROM
dust and moisture (IP65).
$
95
10
Accessories not included
Deluxe Power Meter
• Displays wattage, voltage and cost usage
• Supplied with 1 metre extension cable
• Size: 159(L) x 73(W) x 38(H)mm
MS-6119
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
• Moulded in light grey
• Designed to IP65 of
IEC 529 and NEMA 4
(dust & hose proof)
NEW
NEW
$
2995
FROM
$
HB-6213 $12.95 Box: 115(W)
1295
x 65(D) x 40(H)mm
HB-6221 $25.95 Box: 171(W) x 12(D) x 80(H)mm
with Clear Lid and Mounting Flange:
Monitor the energy consumption of an appliance
with the added convenience of being able to read
the large LCD screen via an extension cord.
FROM
Warm White 906 Lumens
$
8900
ZD-0373 was $99 now $89 save $10
Neutral White 966 Lumens
ZD-0376 was $99.95 now $89.95 save $10
IP65 Polycarbonate
Enclosures
with Mounting Flange:
SAVE $5
695
HB-5029 $10.95 Box: 90(W) x 36(D) x 30(H)mm
HB-5031 $11.95 Box: 64(W) x 58(D) x 35(H)mm
HB-5044 $23.95 Box: 115(W) x 90(D) x 55(H)mm
HB-5041 $36.95 Box: 171(W) x 121(D) x 55(H)mm
Attach the handy rare earth magnets to walls, tables
or other surfaces to hold tools, brushes, scissors, key
rings or any other object that contains iron.
$9.90
Smart Lighting
15W Downlight Kits
IP65 ABS Enclosures
• Flanged mount
$
Aerosol Dust Remover
• 250mL can
NA-1018
HP-1600 $24.95
HP-1602 $24.95
HP-1604 $24.95
HP-1606 $24.95
See online for full range of Sealed ABS Enclosures
Portasol Pro Piezo Gas
Soldering Tool Kit
3-in-1 Function Heat
Blower & Soldering Iron
$
49
• Suitable for use with our
PT-4934 to PT-4939 range
of eye terminals
• 450mm long
TH-1849
119
Butane gas 150g: NA-1020 $5.95
1795
Heavy Duty Terminal Crimper
Easy one-hand operation makes this meter perfect for
the working installer or tradesman. A quality,
intermediate-level clampmeter with current
ranges up to 400 amps AC and DC.
• Piezo ignition
• Up to 500˚C
• Size: 148(L) x 35(W) x 23(D)mm
TH-1604
M3 Threads
M4 Threads
M5 Threads
M6 Threads
Enclosures with Mounting Flange
400A AC/DC Clampmeter
• Data hold, non-contact voltage, relative
measurement
• Autoranging
$
00
• Auto power off
• Diode test
• Jaw opening 30mm
• Size: 198(H) x 66(W) x 36(D)mm
QM-1563
These thread repair kits will enable you to drill
out a stripped or otherwise damaged thread in a
blind hole. Available in
NEW
M3, M4, M5 and M6
$
95
sizes. 10 inserts
EACH
included in kit.
24
• Slotted, Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx and Hex
• Case size: 157(L) x
100(W) x 27(D)mm
TD-2106
• Laser pointing targeting
• Wide temperature range
• 12:1 Dist. to spot ratio
$
00
• Backlit LCD
• Holster included
• Size: 146(L) x 104(W) x 43(D)mm
QM-7221
Thread Repair Kits
HB-6249 $14.95 Box: 115(W) x 65(D) x 40(H)mm
HB-6251 $17.95 Box: 115(W) x 90(D) x 55(H)mm
HB-6223 $28.95 Box: 115(W) x 121(D) x 80(H)mm
12VDC E14 Base
LED Globe
Drawing just 5W of power and
producing around 450 lumens of light,
this LED globe is an excellent solution
for energy efficient lighting. Fitted with
E14 screw base.
• 12VDC
• Cool white
(5500K)
SL-2851
NEW
$
2495
July 2013 51
www.jaycar.com.au
3
AUTO & OUTDOORS
Cigarette Lighter Adaptors
& Splitters
A new exciting range of 12/24VDC adaptors to suit a
variety of cars or trucks.
12V/24VDC Cigarette Lighter Socket
with USB Port
Allows you to power a USB gadget while still keeping
your cigarette lighter socket available.
• Overall width: 60mm
PP-2126
Also available
12V/24VDC Cigarette
Lighter Socket Splitter
• Compatible with iPad®, Android, surface Tablets
• Size: 190(H) x 140(L) x
140(W)mm
HS-9036
29
1495
95
HS-9034 NEW $24.95
iPad® not included
Multimedia HDMI Travel Kit
PP-2132 NEW $18.95
12V/24VDC Cigarette
Lighter Socket Splitter
with 2 x USB Ports
NEW
$
2495
Powers two 12-24VDC accessories
at the same time.
• USB output: 5VDC
2A (max)
• Overall width: 90mm
PP-2128
Also available
12V/24VDC Cigarette Lighter
Socket Splitter Cable with 2 x USB Ports 1.2m
An handy HDMI travel kit for connecting Tablets,
Smartphones, cameras, or laptops to displays with
HDMI ports. The kit consists of a standard 1.2m HDMI
lead and two adaptors to convert one end of the lead
to either a Mini HDMI or Micro HDMI plug. Includes a
travel pouch for your lead and adaptors.
• 24K Gold plated connectors
• HDMI 1.4 compatible
• Resolution up
to 4092 x
2160 pixels
WC-7746
NEW
$
24
95
Powers three 12-24VDC accessories at
the same time.
NEW
$
• Detachable mounting bracket
with 3M adhesive
• Overall width: 90mm,
Cable length: 1.2m
PP-2134
2495
12V/24VDC Cigarette Lighter
Socket 3 Way Splitter
PP-2135 NEW $14.95
Re-Wireable Trailer Connectors
A range of the most common 7 pin trailer plugs and
sockets, featuring easy to use screw down terminals,
corrosion resistant metal contacts and high quality UV
stabilised plastics. See website for wiring guide.
7
PP-2050
PP-2052
PP-2054
PS-2051
PS-2053
PS-2056
$7.95
$7.95
$7.95
$7.95
$7.95
$7.95
PS-2051
19
8W 240V LED Light Globes
New additions to our extensive range of ViriBright LED
light globes. They offer a brilliant lumen performance
with wide, evenly spread light output across a 270º
output angle, making them better than traditional light
globes in many cases.
Warm White 500 Lumens Bayonet
SL-2230 NEW $22.95
Warm White 500 Lumens Screw
SL-2231 NEW $22.95
Natural White 650 Lumens Bayonet
SL-2232 NEW $22.95
Natural White 650 Lumens Screw
Also available 5W
and 10W. See website
for more details.
NEW
$
22 95 EA
Handsfree AUX Mic Lead for Smartphones
Features a highly sensitive microphone on a slim line 3.5mm stereo audio lead so you can
listen to music on your car stereo or talk on your mobile.
Zero setup required, simply plug in.
NEW
• Length: 1.2m
AA-2097
iiPhone® not included
Trailer Plug Adaptor Leads
Also available
NEW
$
95
SL-2233 NEW $22.95
PP-2129 NEW $29.95
12V/24VDC Cigarette Lighter Socket
3 Way Splitter Cable
iPhone® not included
Smartphone Bracket Cup Holder
Mount HS-9032 NEW $24.95
Universal Smartphone/Tablet
Holder with HD Suction Mount
12V/24VDC Cigarette Lighter
Socket Splitter Cable 1.2m
NEW
$ 95
• Size: 235(L) x 84(W)mm
HS-9030
Also available
Also available
PP-2130 NEW $9.95
7 Pin Flat Plug
7 Pin Large Round Plug
7 Pin Small Round Plug
7 Pin Flat Socket
7 Pin Large Round Socket
7 Pin Small Round Socket
Extremely strong suction mount
joined to a tough flexible gooseneck.
A wide variety of Smartphones will
sit comfortably in the adjustable
grip so you can access your phone
while in your vehicle. The cradle
can be rotated for portrait or
landscape view.
This holder will accommodate a variety of different
sized Tablets for your car, truck, or van. Grip size can
be widened easily by sliding them out of the grooves.
NEW
$
NEW
$
Don’t Get Fined!
Tablet Holder with Heavy Duty
Suction Mount
300mm in length, and 6 versions available to fix up any
mismatch of the 7 Pin Flat, 7 Pin Large round and 7 Pin
Small round trailer connectors. Remember, match the
plug end of the adaptor to the socket on your car, and
the socket end of these adaptors to the plug end on
your trailer.
7 Pin Flat Plug to 7 Pin Large Round Socket
7 Pin Flat Plug to 7 Pin Small Round Socket
7 Pin Small Round Plug to 7 Pin Flat Socket
7 Pin Large Round Plug to 7 Pin Flat Socket
7 Pin Small Round Plug to 7 Pin Large Round Socket
7 Pin Large Round Plug to 7 Pin Small Round Socket
7 Core Trailer Wiring Loom - 10m
A 10m length of the standard 7 conductors sheathed in
a tough black PVC jacket. See website for wiring guide.
WH-3090
EA
NEW
$
3495
$
1495
NEW
95
$
14
PA-2061
PA-2062
PA-2063
PA-2064
PA-2065
PA-2066
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
EA
PA-2065
PA-2063
5 Core Trailer Cable - 10m
A 10m length of the standard 5 conductors sheathed in a
tough black PVC jacket. See website for wiring guide.
WH-3091
NEW
$
2495
PP-2050
52 Silicon Chip
4
To order call 1800 022 888
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/07/2013.
SOUND & VISION
Masthead Amplifiers for Digital TV
VHF/UHF Masthead Amp
A large chunk of the Australian TV broadcast spectrum is
being reallocated for the next generation 4G/LTE mobile
phone service, and this may cause issue with existing TV
reception equipment. This new 35dB masthead amplifier
from Kingray adds a
switchable filter to
protect against this.
See our website for
full specifications.
• Includes mains
power supply
• VHF 44-230MHz,
UHF 520-860MHz
LT-3251
2 Way
• Size: 110(L) x 70(W)
x 35(H)mm
LT-3282 $24.95
• Size: 158(L) x 80(W)
x 45(H)mm
LT-3284 $34.95
NEW
$
9995
• Suitable with LT-3251 VHF/UHF
masthead amplifier shown above
LT-3259
NEW
$
34
95
USB Charge/Sync Leads for
iPad®/ iPhone®/ iPod®
Suitable for Apple® iPhone®,
iPod® and iPad® with 30-pin
Apple® connector.
NEW
4
Inserts for Keystone Wallplates
A range of inserts to cater for computer and audio
video applications.
NEW
Right Angle USB 2.0
Socket Keystone Insert
FROM
4
$ 95
PS-0795 $4.95
Right Angle HDMI Socket
Keystone Insert
PS-0795
PS-0796
PS-0796 $9.95
PS-0797 $12.95
Send crystal clear audio from your Hi-Fi or portable
music device to speakers up to 20m away without
messy wiring. Connect your speakers to the spring
terminals and power using the included power
supplies or by batteries. Supplied with 2 x 150mm
3.5mm curly cables to
connect your audio
source.
• Power output:
15WRMS x 2
(into 4 ohms)
• Transmitter and receiver
requires 8 x AA batteries each
• Size (transmitter and receiver):
156(L) x 45(H) x 95(W)mm
AR-1895 was $129.00
PS-0797
9 Band Pocket Radio
A powerful little radio capable of receiving
FM/MW/SW1-7 bands. Features full clock functions,
an alarm, antenna, and a 3.5mm headphone jack for
personal listening.
• Requires: 2 x AA batteries or 3VDC plugpack
• Size: 110(L) x 70(H) x 24(D)mm
AR-1736
NEW
$
2495
$
9900
SAVE $30
Manage a database of IR codes on the
computer, not from the remote control.
Use the provided software for easy
setup or to individually assign a
function to each button. Regular
updates to the database ensure
compatibility with the latest TVs,
DVD players, etc.
See in-store or online for range of Keystone Wallplates
Better, More Technical
Achieve longer HDMI cable runs with these amplified
leads. They boost the signal strength
with a built-in equaliser enabled
lengths from 10-20m without the
use of a power supply.
• HDMI High Speed with Ethernet
• HDMI 1.4 Compatible
NEW
10m WQ-7430 $79.95
15m WQ-7432 $99.00
20m WQ-7434 $129.00
FROM
$
7995
UHF/VHF Digital TV
Masthead Amplifier
NEW
$
2995
NEW
$
• Supplied with
AC power
injector and
F-type to PAL
adaptors
• Input gain:
UHF 26dB, VHF 18dB
• Size: 125(W) x 102(H) x 45(D)mm
LT-3275
NEW
$
4995
Connects to MP3 players, Smartphones,
computers or any other
audio source to play your
favourite tunes with great
sound quality.
• Rechargeable
• Maximum power: 12W
• MAC® and PC compatible
• Size: 210(L) x 60(W) x 50(H)mm
XC-5197
$
2495
AM/FM/SW/LW/AIR PLL Radio with SSB
A tri-band compact, portable AM/FM/SW radio with built-in
MP3 player and digital clock. Supports USB flash drive and
microSD card (32GB max).
siliconchip.com.au
5995
USB Portable Speaker
AM/FM/SW Rechargeable
Radio with MP3
• 3.5mm headphone jack
• Built-in high quality
rechargeable Li-ion battery
• USB cable included
• Size: 114(L) x 70(H) x
25(D)mm
AR-1721
NEW
$
Connect a separate UHF & VHF, or a combination UHF/VHF
antenna to this amplifier for excellent signal amplification.
Suitable for analogue, digital, and HDTV signals.
6-in-1 Universal
Remote Control
• Advanced learning functions
• Up to 4 macro buttons
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
• Size: 190(H) x 48(W) x 20(D)mm
AR-1719
Add Wi-Fi to your array of home
entertainment devices. For those with
Ethernet only Smart TVs, game
consoles, Blu-Ray player this
device will allow you to make
them all wireless so you don't have
to run long cables all over the house to your
internet connected Wi-Fi modem.
Amplified HDMI Leads
2495
$ 95
WC-7688 $9.95
HDMI Socket Flylead
Keystone Insert
FROM
Limited Stock. Hurry!
FROM
3m Length
NEW
$
Turn your Home Theatre
Wireless
• Size: 127(W) x 30(H) x 96(D)mm
YN-8361
2.4GHz Wireless Amplifier System
An easy solution to powering a
masthead amp on a caravan, RV,
camper trailer etc. It plugs into a
cigarette lighter/12V power socket and
feeds power for a masthead amplifier.
WC-7689 $4.95
• Mains adaptor
included
4 Way
12V Masthead Amp
Power Injector
150mm Length
Indoor Amplifier TV Splitters
Split and amplify your UHF, VHF or FM signals to 2 or
4 other units with these handy amplifier splitters.
Features high gain and low noise to ensure your
signal is of a high quality.
2995
Feature-packed radio with the added function of
single-sideband modulation (SSB). SSB is used to
obtain current weather reports,
NEW
so it is perfect to take to sea to
avoid changing weather
$
00
conditions. Mains adaptor
included and can be
battery operated. See
website for full specs.
179
• Size: 310(W) x 195(H) x
100(D)mm
AR-1945
HAS
SSB!
July 2013 53
www.jaycar.com.au
5
ARDUINO DEVELOPMENT KITS
Arduino-Compatible Boards
Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping
platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and
software. It can be used to develop interactive objects,
taking inputs from a variety of switches or sensors, and
controlling a variety of lights, motors, and other physical
outputs (includes Jaycar stepper motors). Arduino
projects can be stand-alone, or they can be
communicated with software running on your computer.
These Arduino development kits are 100% Arduinocompatible. Designed in Australia and supported with
tutorials, guides, a forum and more. A very active
worldwide community and resources are available with
many projects, ideas and programs available to freely
use. Learn more at www.jaycar.com.au/arduino
LeoStick, Arduino Compatible
A tiny Arduino-compatible board that's so
small you can plug it straight into your
USB port without requiring a
cable! Features a full range of
analogue and digital I/O, a
user-controllable RGB LED
on the board and an
onboard Piezo/sound
generator.
• ATmega32u4 MCU with 2.5K
RAM and 32K Flash
$
• Size: 49(W) x 19(H) x 8(D)mm
XC-4266
Also available
LeoStick Prototyping Shield XC-4268 $7.95
29
ARDUINO Shields
Shields are expansion boards that plug into the top of your Arduino to extend its capabilities. Available shields include displays
and keypads, radio link receivers, communications, meter and relay drivers, etc. See online or in-store for our complete range.
ProtoShield Short
A dedicated short version prototyping shield for
EtherTen (XC-4216) and EtherMega (XC-4256). This
special prototyping shield is designed to fit neatly
behind the RJ45 Ethernet jack, allowing you to stack
your Ethernet-based projects right
on top with standard headers.
EtherTen, Arduino Compatible
with Onboard Ethernet
Includes onboard Ethernet, a USB-serial converter, a
microSD card slot for storing gigabytes
of web server content or data, and
even Power-over-Ethernet
support.
• Gold-plated surface
• Size: 59(L) x 53(W)mm
XC-4214
433MHz Receiver Shield
8 Channel Relay Driver Shield
4
$
$ 95
• Reset button
• Red and green
user-defined LEDs
• Gold-plated surface
• 433.92MHz tuned
frequency
• Size: 60(L) x 54(W) x 9(D)mm
XC-4220
$
2995
11900
Mega Prototyping Shield for Arduino to suit
XC-4257 $17.95
2995
An incredibly versatile
programmable board
for creating projects.
Easily programmed
using the free Arduino
IDE development
environment, and can
be connected into your
project using a variety of analogue and digital
inputs and outputs. Accepts expansion shields
and can be interfaced with our wide range of
sensor, actuator, light, and sound modules.
54 Silicon Chip
6
NEW
$
Eleven, Arduino Uno
Compatible
• 8 analogue inputs
XC-4210
To order call 1800 022 888
$
4 Channel Relay Driver Module
for Arduino XC-4278 $13.95
A special prototyping shield for Eleven
(XC-4210) and USBDroid (XC-4222)
that provides handy screw
terminals on both edges
for easy and secure
connection.
• Drives up to 2A per motor channel
• Size: 60(L) x 54(W) x 12(D)mm
DUE MID JULY
XC-4264
$
3495
Terminal Shield for Arduino
H-Bridge Motor Driver
Shield for Arduino
EtherMega, Mega Sized Arduino
Compatible with Ethernet
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built in
• 54 digital I/O lines
• 16 analogue inputs
• microSD memory
card slot
• Prototyping area
• Size: 105(W) x
54(H) x 19(D)mm
XC-4256
Also available
• Size: 52(W) x 66(H) x 12(D)mm
XC-4276
Also available
Directly drive DC motors using
your Arduino compatible board
and this shield, which provides
PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation)
motor output on 2 H-bridge
channels to let your board control
the speed, direction and power of
two motors independently. Perfect
for robotics and motor control
projects.
The ultimate network-connected Arduino-compatible
board: combining an ATmega2560 MCU, onboard
Ethernet, a USB-serial converter, a microSD card slot for
storing gigabytes of web server content or data,
Powerover- Ethernet support, and even an onboard
switchmode voltage regulator so it can run on up to
28VDC without overheating.
4 45
Drive up to 8 relays from an Arduino using just 2 I/O
pins. It communicates with your board using I2C, so
you can even stack several shields together to drive
16, 24, or more outputs!
$
• ATmega328P MCU
running at 16MHz
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built in
• Used as a web server, remote
monitoring and control, home automation projects
• 8 analogue inputs
• Size: 76(W) x 54(D) x 19(H)mm
$
95
XC-4216
69
A prototyping shield for the Eleven (XC-4210) and
USBDroid (XC-4222). Provides plenty of space to add
parts to suit any project, keeping everything neat and
self-contained. Includes dedicated space to fit a
power LED and supply
decoupling capacitor.
• Gold-plated surface
• Size: 49(L) x 54(W) x 2(D)mm
XC-4248
This receiver shield lets you intercept 433MHz
OOK/ASK signals, decoding them in software on your
Arduino. All the Arduino headers are broken out to
solder pads, and GND and
5V rails are provided for
convenience.
95
ProtoShield Basic
3995
• Gold-plated surface
• Large prototyping area
• Size: 79(L) x 61(W) x
26(D)mm
XC-4224
$
1695
Prototyping Accessories
Stackable Header Set for Arduino
The perfect accessory to the ProtoShield Basic, Pro,
and vero type boards when connecting to your Arduino
compatible project.
• Gold flash 0.1" pitch quality stackable headers
• 2 x 8 pin and 2 x 6 pin included to suit
the Eleven, EtherTen, USBDroid and
ProtoShields
HM-3207
$ 95
2
Breadboard
• 1680 tie points
• 400 distribution holes
• 1280 terminal holes
• Mounted on a
metal plate
• Board size:
130(W) x
175(H)mm
$
PB-8816
FREE Jumper
Kit (WH-3032)
worth $3.45 with
every purchase
3995
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/07/2013.
SIMPLE TO ADVANCED PROJECTS
ARDUINO Books
Programming Arduino: Getting
Started with Sketches
This entry level book explains what an Arduino
microcontroller actually is, introduces you to the Arduino
programming language and then describes
the basic configurations of Arduino modules.
It goes then into the detail and finishing with
a discussion on C++ and more
sophisticated applications.
• Soft cover, 162 pages
• 138 x 215mm
BM-7133
NEW
$
1795
Arduino + Android Projects
for the Evil Genius
A project oriented book written around
Android-type mobile phones and the
Arduino microcontroller. Many projects
use both the Arduino and the Android
culminating in the creation of a home
Automation system.
• Soft cover, 197
pages
• 215 x 275mm
BM-7135
NEW
$
3495
This book guides you through the
construction of 7 robots that roll, walk,
talk, slither and even sling insults at
you. All projects feature the Arduino
microcontroller platform.
3695
Power Regulator 28V
(Switchmode) for Arduino
This regulator is a high tech switchmode supply with
a selectable 5V or 7VDC output. The input voltage
range of 6 to 28VDC is very flexible and it will not
overheat at higher input voltages
like the 7805 and other linear
regulators may.
• Green “triggered” LED for easy
setup and use
• Output turns on at 40 Gauss (4mT)
and turns off at 30 Gauss (3mT)
• Size: 21(W) x 16(H) x 4(D)mm
XC-4242
$
995
This versatile piezo-element module
can be used for both input or output!
Also used as a noise-maker driven
by your microcontroller for audible
feedback of events, and as a knockdetector input to sense events and react to them.
Includes a built-in 1M resistor to allow
the piezo element to detect shocks.
$ 95
9
• Frequency response 0-20KHz,
peak resonant frequency: 4KHz +/-500Hz
• Sound pressure level at 10cm: 75dB (min)
• Size: 23(W) x 16(H) x 5(D)mm
XC-4232
Give your project ears with this sound response and
sound pressure level sensing module. An integrated
dual signal amplifier converts the sound to separate
channels for pulse and frequency measurement, and
sound volume level. Designed to connect straight to
an Arduino compatible, microcontroller analogue to
digital converter or many other circuits.
• Omnidirectional microphone
• Size: 23(W) x 16(H) x 8(D)mm
XC-4236
$
$
1995
This regulator module fits onto the EtherTen (XC4216) or EtherMega (XC-4256) to make them
compatible with commercial 48V Power-over-Ethernet
switches. It includes built-in smarts to communicate
with the switch and negotiate a power rating for the
device, then uses a switch-mode regulator
to efficiently drop the 48V
supplied via the LAN cable
down to 7.5V for use by the
Arduino compatible board.
995
$
2995
695
Use this shift register expansion module to drive up to
8 devices using just 3 pins on your microcontroller.
They can also be daisy-chained together to
drive 16 channels or more.
• 2 to 6V operation
• Size: 23(W) x 16(H) x 4(D)mm
XC-4240
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
$
695
• Independent X, Y, and Z axis outputs
• Can run from either 5V or 3.3V
• Size: 23(W) x 15(H) x 4(D)mm
$
XC-4226
1995
ARDUINO Displays
16 x 2 LCD Shield for Arduino
Handy 16-character by 2-line display ready to plug
straight in to your Arduino, with a software-controllable
backlight and 5 buttons for user input. The display is
set behind the shield for a
low profile appearance and
it includes panel mounting
screw holes in the corners.
• 2 rows of 16 characters
• Software-controlled
backlight
• Size: 85(L) x 53(W) x 23(D)mm
XC-4218
$
2995
A huge dot matrix LED panel to connect to your
Freetronics Eleven, EtherTen and more! This large, bright
512 LED matrix panel has on-board controller circuitry
designed to make it easy to use straight from your
board. Clocks, status displays, graphics readouts and all
kinds of impressive display projects are ready to create
with this display’s features.
• 32 x 16 high
brightness Blue LEDs
(512 LEDs total) on a
10mm pitch
• 5V operation
• Viewable over 12
NEW
metres away
• Tough plastic frame
$
95
• Size: 320(W) x 160(H) x 14(D)mm
XC-4251
Can for comparison only
Also available
Large Dot Matrix LED Display Panel - Red
XC-4250 $39.95
RGB LED Cube Kit for Arduino
This stunning 3D-matrix of 64 RGB LEDs incorporates
an onboard Arduino-compatible
controller so you can produce
mesmerising light shows controlled
by software. Use it as a mood light
or create your own "ambient
device" that gently notifies you of
new email or instant messages.
Some assembly required.
• 4 bi-directional channels
• Size: 18(W) x 16(H) x 4(D)mm
XC-4238
Shift Register Expansion
Module for Arduino
This module can operate in either +/-1.5g
or +/-6g ranges, giving your project the
ability to tell which way is up. Ideal
for robotics projects, tilt
sensors, vehicle dataloggers
etc. Perfectly suited for
Arduino projects.
89
This module easily connects different logic voltage
levels together for bi-directional communication on up
to 4 channels, allowing you to use low-voltage
sensors with a 5V microcontroller.
$
3-Axis Accelerometer Module
Large Dot Matrix LED Display
Panel - Blue
Logic Level Converter Module
Power-over-Ethernet Regulator
• Implements the official 802.3af
Power-over-Ethernet standard
• 12.5W maximum power rating
• Size: 31(W) x 33(H) x 12(D)mm
XC-4252
Sense magnetic presence, rotating wheels and
magnets, door and arm sensors, and anything
else magnetic nearby this sensor.
Microphone Sound Input Module
NEW
$
• Can also be used for the
EtherTen and EtherMega
Power-over- Ethernet for
efficient switchmode supply
remote powering
• Size: 21(W) x 33(H) x 6(D)mm
XC-4258
Hall Effect Magnetic &
Proximity Sensor Module
Sound & Buzzer Module
Arduino Robot Builder's Bonanza
• Soft cover,
464 pages
BM-7136
ARDUINO Modules
The many modules available give you easy connections with online
guides for interactive sensors, actuators, displays, light and sound.
• 4 x 4 x 4 matrix of individually
addressable 8mm RGB LEDs
• Size: 106(W) x 130(H) x 106(D)mm
(assembled)
XC-4274
$
8995
For ARDUINO Video and Projects visit
www.jaycar.com.au/arduino
July 2013 55
www.jaycar.com.au
7
SECURITY PROJECTS
Budget Surveillance Package
Records video from the four day/night colour cameras constantly, scheduled or when
motion is detected. Uses H.264 video compression to store up to 300 hours of video on
its 500GB hard Drive. View live or played back video on a TV, computer monitor or
access over the Internet using a standard web browser or Smartphone/ iPhone® free
app. Remote, mouse, 4 x 18m cables and power
Monitor also
$
00
supply included. For full specs, see website.
sold separately
399
• Backup to external USB drive
SAVE $100
• Email motion detect alert
• Up to 704 x 576 pixel D1 resolution on each channel
• Includes 4 colour weatherproof CMOS 350 TV Line cameras
QV-3028 was $499.00
DIY IP Cameras
Add this
17" Monitor
for $150
(QM-3577)
89
• MJPEG video compression
• 1/5" Colour CMOS Sensor, 300k Pixels
• IR LEDs for visibility in the dark
• Wireless transmission up to 50m
Also available:
DVR Package + 17" ASUS Colour Monitor
Wi-Fi Camera with IR LEDs
QV-3100 was $649.00 now $549.00 save $100.00
Our entry level DIY IP camera.
Eye Glasses with 720p HD Camera
36 LED Signal Strobe
Light with Magnetic
Base
Hollywood Director style glasses that hide a secret 720p
digital video recorder with 8GB memory. Camera lens is
located on the nose bridge and is difficult to see.
Powered by rechargeable batteries via USB.
A strobe light suitable for emergency
situations. Includes 36 high brightness
LEDs positioned behind orange lenses.
Also features a strong magnetic base
for mounting to cars or boats. O-ring
sealed.
• Requires 2 x D batteries
• Size: 146(H) x 114(Dia.)mm
ST-3234
Designed for use with any common household router.
Access through web browser or iPhone®/Android®
app to see what is really going on while you're away.
Features Wi-Fi and wired connectivity with easy setup
and configuration options, and
FROM
motion alarm detection which
$
00
can email or FTP upload camera
snapshots at a specified internal.
3995
Designed for external use with
tough aluminium housing.
NEW
$
• Size: 95(L) x 85(H) x 30(W)mm
QC-3836 $149.00
17900
Wireless Child Tracker - 4 Channel
Wireless Luggage Tracker
Be alerted when your child has wandered away! Simply
place the small lightweight transmitter in the child's
pocket, bag or by using the included lanyard. Features
include panic button, and a search function with
direction and distance indication. Also use with pets,
mobile phones, and other valuables.
$
95
• Can support up to four
transmitters
SAVE $10
• 2.4GHz digital RF technology
• Receiver size: 95(L) x
65(W) x 18(D)mm
• Transmitter size: 61(L) x
36(W) x 11(D)mm
XC-0362 was $49.95
Track the location of your luggage by attaching the
switched on slave unit to your bag prior to check-in.
Doubles as an anti-theft device for a wallet, purse etc.
Just place the credit card sized slave unit into your
wallet or purse, set the desired distance to either six
or fifteen metres, and keep the master unit in a
different spot such as in your pocket.
$
95
• Up to 120m range (line of sight)
• Alarm with vibration
SAVE $10
• Belt clip included
• Master size: 52.8(L) x
39(W) x 13.2(D)mm
Slave size: 80(L) x
50(W) x 2.8(D)mm
XC-0360 was $39.95
39
29
Pan/tilt functionality so you can
change the view angle as you please.
Outdoor Wired/Wi-Fi Camera
Warning: These cameras should not
be placed in areas where there is an
expectation of privacy.
Tracking Devices
Pan/Tilt Camera with IR
• Size: 125(H) x 100(W) x 95(L)mm
QC-3834 $119.00
• Video format: AVI
• Video Resolution:
Up to 1280 x 720
• Photo Resolution:
1600 x 1200
QC-8022
NEW
$
• Size: 140(H) X 105(W) X 95(D)mm
QC-3832 $89.00
Additional transmitter tags available
XC-0363 was $29.95 now $19.95 save $10.00
Personal GPS/GSM
Tracking Device
Locate a personal belonging using your phone. To
operate insert a GSM sim card (not included), charge
and complete the initial setup. Send an SMS to the
locator from your phone and it will return an SMS with
GPS coordinates or a link to Google Maps if you are
using a Smartphone. See
website for more features.
• Rechargeable and
compact
• USB cable and in-car
charger included
• Operates for up to 3
days between charges
• Size: 61(L) x 42(W) x 11(D)mm
LA-9013
$
14900
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ilicon
Prices valid from 24th
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including Jaycar Authorised Stockist. These stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock.
siliconchip.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Smoke: it’s not always a bad thing
Smoke wafting from an electronic device is
usually not the most welcome sight in any
serviceman’s lair. But there’s often a silver
lining. Its presence can make diagnosing
whatever problem ails the device a lot easier.
S
MOKE FROM any electronic device is always a cause for concern.
However, if it helps in tracking down
a problem, then I’m all for taking advantage of an otherwise bad situation.
Over the years, I’ve had some interesting smoke moments and while some
are spectacular (and entertaining), all
are serious because smoke usually indicates major problems. In particular,
the heat associated with the smoke
can cause even more damage than the
original component failure, sometimes
to the point where the device is beyond
economic repair.
In a recent case, a client brought
a supposedly dead laptop in to my
workshop. This machine would power
on but only for a very brief period.
siliconchip.com.au
When the power button was pressed,
the idiot lights would flash once and
then go out. After that, there would be
no further signs of life.
The usual procedure in a case like
this is to first use a multimeter to
check that the external power supply
is delivering the correct voltages. I then
go on to try various combinations of
the battery and power supply to make
sure the battery isn’t shorted internally
or dead flat, or that the power supply
itself isn’t faulty under load, all of
which can cause similar symptoms.
Anyway, I was carrying out this
procedure in front of the client (as part
of our booking-in procedure) when
she suddenly pointed to the lefthand
screen hinge area and exclaimed
“smoke”! I had also seen it out of the
corner of my eye and immediately
disconnected the power supply before
flipping the machine over to eject the
battery.
After disconnecting all the power
sources, the smoke stopped but our
noses told us all we needed to know.
That familiar acrid smell meant that
something had really heated up
enough inside the laptop to cause
some real damage. And that almost
certainly meant dead parts and perhaps
a scorched circuit board and/or damage
to cable insulation.
The area the smoke came from was
adjacent to the power button, which is
on the top lefthand side of the laptop
and adjacent to where the power supply plugs in. This naturally had me
thinking that the problem was centred
there, so that’s the first place I looked.
On this laptop, a 25mm-wide plastic
strip (or panel) runs the width of the
machine adjacent to the screen and
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Smoking laptop computer
Smoking power supply
Faulty PC power supply
The buzzing PA system
Hung Chang scope repair
Nissan Patrol fuel-gauge
problem
Faulty infusion pumps
this houses various indicator lights
and the power and WiFi on/off buttons. This panel is held on with both
plastic clips and two screws on the
underside of the computer, the latter
sneakily hidden in the battery compartment.
This arrangement is a trap for many
younger players who struggle to take
off these panels. On most machines,
the plastic clips are notoriously tough
to undo without breaking, especially if
they’ve never been off before. What’s
more, if no screws are visible after
a quick inspection of the underside,
it’s easy to assume that these clips are
all that hold the panel in place. This
further increases the risk of breaking
the clips if an attempt is then made to
prise the panel off.
So it always pays to look for any
screw fasteners that may be tucked
away under the battery or any of the
various removable covers found underneath many laptops.
I’ve even seen screws hidden behind
removable memory or WiFi modules,
as well as under product stickers or
rubber bumpers. Breaking a panel
getting it off can really ruin your day,
especially since many manufacturers
don’t offer them as spare parts. So unless you happen to have an identical
dead laptop lying around that you can
steal panels from, you are unlikely to
find another one to replace it.
Joining a broken panel with glue or
plastic welding is also a non-starter
because no matter how well it’s done, it
July 2013 57
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
just looks awful and the client is likely
to be very unhappy. If in doubt, the
internet usually has well put-together
guides on stripping down just about
anything. At the very least, there will
be a service manual for your model
somewhere on-line that you can refer
to.
Of course, most males really don’t
like reading any form of instructions.
However, I like eating crow sandwiches and apologising to clients for
ruining their thousand-dollar machines even less. As a result, I always
Google the exact model number of the
machine and add either “manual”,
“user guide” or “disassembly” to the
search criteria.
Too much information
Of course, the big problem with
internet searches is that there are typically hundreds (if not thousands) of
results returned, even when very spe-
cific search criteria are used. Sorting
through these can be a real headache
and can be very time consuming.
One strategy I use is to do an image
search instead of the usual web search.
The number of image search results
is usually a lot more manageable, not
only because there are less of them to
sort through but also because you can
quickly browse through the resulting
thumbnails to locate the manual or
reference material you want.
Another tip is to use the video
search function. Given that everyone
wants to have their 15 minutes of video
fame these days, chances are someone
out in cyberspace has recorded and
uploaded a “walkthrough” or instructional video for your particular device
to YouTube.
Back to the laptop
Getting back to my client’s smoking
laptop, I’ve serviced dozens of this
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
58 Silicon Chip
particular model so I knew all about
the screws under the battery and soon
had the panel off in one piece. It all
looked fine under there though, with
no signs of burning or soot deposits
or charred circuit boards anywhere.
Even the smell had now faded away to
the point where I could barely detect
it, even with my nose pressed right
against the affected area.
At this stage, I had two choices: (1)
I could spend time stripping the rest
of the machine down in the hope that
I would see something obvious, or (2)
I could reconnect the power supply,
push the power button and let the
smoke guide me directly to the problem. In this case, I decided that the
latter approach would be the best way
forward, so I reconnected the power
supply and the power button assembly
(which I’d removed from the panel I’d
just taken off).
Before switching on though, I sat
my trusty fire extinguisher near the
workbench – not because I seriously
thought I’d need it but because it’s
always better to be safe than sorry. As
it turned out, I was being overly melodramatic. Almost as soon as I hit and
held down the power button, a tiny
wisp of smoke curled out from near
the screen’s hinge moulding, quite
away from the power button area. It
didn’t seem to get any worse so I kept
the power on for another few seconds.
I then quickly felt along nearby surfaces with a light finger touch and it
didn’t take long to pinpoint the source
of the heat. The inverter for the screen’s
backlighting was almost too hot to
touch despite only being powered up
for a few seconds. So this was almost
certainly the source of our smoke.
In most older laptops, the inverter
usually lies sandwiched between the
front and back screen surrounds, typically below the screen and between
the hinges. Its job is to bump up the
system voltage (usually 12V) to the
level required to power the fluorescent
backlighting found in older laptops.
These days, of course, the LCD panels used in laptops (and other devices)
use LED backlighting but there are
still lots of laptops out there with the
older fluorescent system. You have to
be very careful when working with
these because the inverter can give
you quite a nasty bite if you get near
the “hot” (high-voltage) end while it
is in operation.
Most laptop inverters consist of a
siliconchip.com.au
few discrete components and some
miniature transformers mounted on a
PCB strip about 70mm long and 10mm
wide. A multi-pin connector indicates
the input, while a heavier-duty 2-pin
connector feeds the high-voltage (HV)
output to one or more fluorescent tubes
which provide the backlighting. These
fluorescent tubes are typically about
4mm in diameter and run the length
of the LCD screen to be illuminated.
While these tubes eventually wear
out (as with other fluorescent tubes)
and go dim, the inverters don’t often
fail. However, when they do, they usually go open circuit, typically giving a
dark screen with the desktop (or other
images) faintly visible when the screen
is viewed from certain angles.
In this case though, the inverter
had shorted internally and this was
locking the whole machine down and
preventing it from powering up. Once
I unplugged the inverter’s input connector, the laptop booted happily and
the video side of things worked fine
with an external monitor connected
to the VGA port.
The repair itself was straightforward. I sourced a new inverter and
soon had the built-in screen up and
running again, all at relatively low
cost. So in this case, the smoke led
me to the troublesome part, though it
was fortunate the power didn’t stay on
for too long. It really wouldn’t have
taken much more for the heat from the
shorted inverter to start deforming the
screen frame and that would have been
difficult, if not impossible, to replace.
Smokin’ power supply
Another instance of smoke showing
the way occurred when I was trying to
resurrect a bench power supply for a
friend. This was a very old home-built
supply and given its state and the low
cost of commercial workshop supplies
these days, I recommended that he
simply chuck it out and buy a new one.
However, like many jobs that come my
way, this unit had sentimental value
and this overrode any sensible decision on his part regarding the likely
cost of repair.
The first thing I noticed when I powered it up was zero output on the meter
and smoke coming from the vents in
the case. Undoing four self-tapping
screws allowed me to remove the top
section of the case and I soon spotted
a rather discoloured 1W resistor, com-
plete with blackened soot highlights,
on the main PCB.
While I didn’t really need any smoke
to tell me where the problem lay, I nevertheless decided to turn the power on
and watch the resistor light up. After
confirming that this was indeed the
source of the smoke, I disconnected the
mains and discharged the filter capacitors. I then lifted the circuit board so I
could see underneath and noted that
a section of the copper track leading
to this resistor had bubbled and lifted.
So something was definitely loading
things up too much.
This supply utilised two 2N3055
TO3-style transistors mounted on the
chassis-cum-heatsink and I suspected
that one or both of these might be the
cause of the problem. There really
wasn’t much else in there to fail, so
I cut to the chase and lifted the leads
from both transistors. My trusty transistor tester told me that one was a
dead short while the other seemed OK.
I had two new 2N3055s in my parts
drawer, so I replaced them both, treating them to new mica washers and
a nice dab of heatsink compound as
well. I then replaced the burnt resistor and repaired the copper track with
Custom RF
Modules
Any available RF chip
Shielded
Power supply
Logic level controls
RF test results provided
Schematic and PCB files available
DC-40GHz
Amplifiers Attenuators Mixers
Switches Filters Power detectors
Power dividers VCO PLL
Typical
Amplifier
Circuit
4/20 Cansdale St
Tel: (07) 3255 8900 sales<at>syndetic.com.au
YERONGA QLD 4104 Fax: (07) 3255 8901 www.syndetic.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 59
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
Nissan Patrol Fuel Gauge Problem
This next story is from P. E., of
Heathcote, Victoria who recently ran
into problems with the fuel gauge in
his Nissan Patrol 4WD. Here’s how
he tackled what initially seemed like
an easy fix . . .
My Nissan Patrol is nearly 16
years young and has done a lot of
work on very rough outback roads.
It has both an after-market main fuel
tank and an auxiliary tank, so there
is little room for fuel hoses and the
like to be routed.
After recently filling both tanks
with “cheap” fuel in Melbourne, I
subsequently noticed on the way
home that the fuel gauge was reading
empty. Well, what could be easier? –
it could only be the gauge, the sender
unit or the wiring between them, so
tracking down the fault should be
straightforward – especially as I also
had a complete workshop manual
for the vehicle.
I began by removing the instrument cluster and bench testing it as
detailed in the manual. It checked
out OK, so I next accessed the top of
some hook-up wire and powered it up.
The voltage adjustment pot was a bit
dodgy and needed a squirt of cleaner
but other than that, it all worked well
and there was no more smoke!
Faulty PC power supply
Sometimes, all you have to do is
use your eyes to track down a faulty
part. It certainly paid off for J. W. of
Bairnsdale, Vic . . .
The Serviceman’s Log of March 2013
titled “PC Power Supplies: Not Worth
Fixing”, prompted me to finally write
this story. It may be significant for the
fact that the dreaded Murphy seems to
have been on holiday throughout the
entire repair process.
Some time ago, my sister’s computer
(tower case) developed an annoying habit of shutting down without
warning. This was not as simple as
the screen-saver turning on or her accidentally hitting the power switch.
One second the computer would be
running normally and the next it
would be totally dead. There would
60 Silicon Chip
the sender unit to test the wire (yellow/black) that ran to fuel gauge. It
too checked out and so, as I feared,
it had to be the sender unit.
I removed the sender and a close
inspection revealed that the small
fuel return pipe had broken off,
taking a yellow wire with it. It also
has a sensor at the bottom for the
low-fuel light.
Using a torch, I could see the pipe
on the bottom of the main tank, so
I dipped my hand in to retrieve it.
All I had to do now was weld the
pipe back on, resolder the wire to
the underside of the sender, reassemble everything and the job would
be done – or so I thought.
However, I couldn’t understand
how the low-fuel sensor had any
relevance to the fuel gauge. The
sender unit has three external wires:
the earth is the black wire; the floatcontrolled potentiometer wiper is
yellow on the outside of the sender
unit and pink on the inside but goes
to yellow/black on the loom; and
the low-fuel sensor is yellow/blue
be absolutely no warning; it would
simply stop.
The fact that this was a real hardware fault and not a software problem
was confirmed when it eventually
became impossible to reboot the computer without first disconnecting and
reconnecting the mains power cord
from the computer. Eventually the
problem became so bad that even this
trick didn’t always work.
With neither myself nor my sister
having much in the way of spare cash
at the time, and since I have some skill
at electronic repairs, I realised that we
had nothing to lose and decided to
delve into the “forbidden territory”
of the power supply.
The first thing I did on opening the
case was carry out a careful visual
inspection. This proved to be the right
thing to do as I quickly noticed a definite case of “capacitor bulgitis”, complete with a smear of “brown goop”.
Based on this evidence, I went straight
to our local electronics shop and purchased a replacement capacitor.
on the outside and yellow on the
inside! Why do car manufactures
add complexity to simple systems?
The pot varies from 5Ω when the
tank is full to about 80Ω when it’s
empty. This bench-tested OK.
After making the necessary repairs, I decided to check that everything was working correctly before
reinstalling the sensor. To my surprise, the fuel gauge still read empty
so what was going on?
In the end, I concluded that it
had to be a fault in the wiring, even
though I had already tested this.
So back to basics – I unplugged the
sender unit from the car and as I
did so, the socket separated from
the loom. The four wires had all
been “rubbed-through” and severed
where they ran between two rubber
hoses. Splicing in new wiring fixed
the problem and I also re-routed the
loom to prevent a re-occurrence.
When I first tested the loom, the
wires must have all made sufficient
contact when I moved the socket to
give good readings. And the broken
pipe? – who knows how long I’ve
been without a low-fuel light. I
never did find out why there are four
wires in the loom when the sender
has three.
With memories of warnings about
charged high-voltage capacitors ringing in my head, I first used a heavy
screwdriver to short out and discharge
all the electrolytic capacitors I could
find on the circuit board before going
to work with the soldering iron. This
precaution proved to be prudent as a
few of the capacitors produced noticeable sparks.
But all that effort paid off. After reassembling everything and reconnecting
the AC power, I pressed the power
button and the computer started immediately. It subsequently continued
to start and run without any problems
until it was replaced with a newer
model a couple of years later.
So for less than a tenth of the cost of
a new power supply and with a little
effort, I managed to extend the life of
this computer by a couple of years. I
consider that a reasonable exchange.
The buzzing PA system
A. H. of Evatt, ACT recently found
an unusual fault that affected a PA
siliconchip.com.au
system. But it wasn’t the PA system
that caused the problem . . .
We received a call from our local
shopping mall about a PA system that
was making a horrible buzzing noise.
However, before visiting the premises,
I decided to try a little “over-thephone” troubleshooting, to see if we
could isolate the problem.
First, I told the client to turn down
all the input controls (eg, for microphones, music etc) and check if the
buzz was still there. The answer was
“yes” so it appeared that the interference was probably not getting into
the amplifier from an external signal
source.
Step 2 was to get the client to turn
down the master volume control on
the amplifier and check again. Once
again the buzz was still there which
was puzzling but perhaps there was
a fault in the power amplifier stage.
Step 3 was to ask the client to turn
the amplifier off at the power point.
The buzz was still there, so it looked
like the PA system itself was not at
fault. In fact, it wouldn’t be the first
time that a PA had been reported as
buzzing when the fault was actually
a noisy light fitting or fan.
When we arrived, there was no buzz
to be heard so we turned the PA system
on and checked it out. There was still
no buzz, so we had a wander around
and found that a row of speakers connected to the system were inoperative.
There was nothing for it but to retrieve a step ladder from the van and
investigate the wiring in the ceiling.
Fortunately, the mall used ceiling tiles
so access was relatively easy.
What we discovered was a rat’s nest
of power cabling, PA cabling and tele
phone cabling. As a result, our only
option was to physically trace the figure-8 cabling from the last speaker that
worked until we found a cable fault.
We soon discovered that this cabling
had dropped neatly across the edge
of the spade terminal on a neon sign,
where the insulating boot had not been
correctly installed. And as luck would
have it, it was the one supplying high
voltage to the sign. The result was a
very neat burn which had cut into
and open-circuited one side of the
figure-8 cable.
So there was a fault in the PA system
(or at least in the wiring to a bank of
speakers) but it was the neon sign that
had caused the problem.
Hung Chang scope repair
Getting old oscilloscopes back into
working order can be a real challenge.
P. C. of Kambah, ACT recently pitted
his wits against his ancient Hung
Chang Model OS-620 oscilloscope
which had developed a number of
faults . . .
Amongst my collection of test gear,
I have a secondhand Hung Chang
Model OS-620 oscilloscope. It’s old,
being roughly 1970s vintage, but still
quite useful.
I was using it recently to check out
a car audio power amplifier and had
the usual sinewave input displayed
on one channel and the output across
a dummy load displayed on the other.
However, just as I got it all set up, the
trace suddenly collapsed to a bright
line about three quarters the width
of the screen and tilted up slightly to
the right.
A few quick checks revealed that
none of the vertical axis controls had
any effect on the trace and the brightness control had also ceased to function. However, the horizontal position
control could move the trace about half
way across the screen. As it was late
afternoon, I decided the best course of
action was to leave it for the time being
and come back to it when I was fresh.
A day or two later, I took the covers
off the scope and took a close look at
the vertical amplifier board. The first
thing I noticed was that the scope
had received attention to the vertical
amplifier area at some time in its past.
You could tell that the vertical output
transistors had been replaced and a
few resistors had been soldered to the
underside of the board that didn’t look
like original components.
At this stage, I powered the unit up
and checked the main HT rail to the
board. It was supposed to be +120V
and it was reading +78V so obviously
that wasn’t right.
Next, I removed the vertical amplifier board from the chassis. This
involved de-soldering a few connections to the front panel input sockets
and AC/GND/DC switches and then
unplugging a number of headers. It
was then only necessary to remove
four screws holding the board to the
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July 2013 61
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
Fig.1: Hung Chang OS-620 vertical amplifier output stage. Several tranistors
required replacement to get it working again.
frame and it was out. It was then that
I discovered that the resistors fitted to
the track side were bridging what had
once been resistors on the component
side. The latter were now charred little
cylinders and obviously had been for
some time (which is why the bridging
resistors had been fitted).
The board itself (phenolic) was burn
ed under one of the charred resistors
and all things considered, it was not
what I would consider a satisfactory
repair. I also noticed that a couple of
additional resistors showed clear signs
of heat stress. As a result, I removed all
the dead and wounded components
and also the resistors hanging off the
underside and cleaned up the scorched
section of the board. All of these
components were associated with the
vertical amplifier output stage.
The output stage of the vertical
amplifier (see Fig.1) has a circuit topology that’s common to many other
analog scopes and consists of cascode
stages with a constant-current loads.
In this case, Q15/Q17 and Q16/Q18
are the cascode stages, while Q19/Q23
and Q20/Q24 are the corresponding
constant-current loads. Q21 and Q22
provide high-frequency boosting to
extend the bandwidth of the amplifier.
Having identified the parts, I removed the main output transistors
and their associated constant-current
driver transistors. Each output transistor and its constant-current mate
(TO-126 packages) are physically
clamped together with two U-shaped
62 Silicon Chip
aluminium heatsinks. Once free of the
board and their heatsinks, it was easy
to see that these transistors had been
replaced at some stage as they were
of a different type to those specified
in the schematic. However, a quick
check on the web showed that new
types were reasonable substitutes for
the originals.
A test of these components showed
that two of them from one side of the
output stage were a dead short (Q18
& Q20). So it was no wonder that the
HT had been pulled low!
The original type specification
was 2SC2704 for the cascode output
and 2SA1144 for the constant current driver. I had no luck in finding
an exact equivalent from the usual
suppliers, so I opted for BF469s and
BF470s. These types have a higher VCB
rating than the originals but a lower
unity gain bandwidth of 80MHz. As
the scope only has a 20MHz vertical
bandwidth specification, I wasn’t too
concerned about this as I wouldn’t be
using this scope to chase fast pulses
around digital circuits.
In due course, I fitted the new components and reinstalled the board but
left the soldered connections to the
input sockets and switches disconnected for the time being. I then powered up the scope and found that the
traces looked much better and were
now occupying the full width of the
screen. The brightness control now
also worked properly and I could now
get two traces in dual mode. However,
the vertical position controls could
only shift them about three quarters
of the way up the screen which meant
that something else was still faulty.
I took a punt and checked the “top”
transistors (Q23 & Q24) in the constantcurrent load circuit. Sure enough, one
of them had failed – the one on the
side of the other shorted transistors,
or course (Q24)! These were 2SC458
types in a TO-92 package with an ECB
lead arrangement but once again, I had
no luck finding new replacements.
However, these transistors are similar
to the good old BC549 and I had plenty
of those in my parts drawer.
Even though the complementary
transistor in the other output leg was
OK, it is always good practice to replace both in these situations. The
BC549 has an EBC lead arrangement,
so I crossed the leads of both transistors and fitted sleeving to the collector
leads to reduce the likelihood of shorting. I then fitted them to the board and
this time, the position controls worked
as they should.
With this section now working correctly, I checked the HT rail and found
that it was now at +153V. That was
a bit too high for comfort, so I shut
everything down again and checked
the heatsinks on the output transistors.
Ouch! – they were painfully hot! So
it now looked like the power supply
board needed attention.
A close inspection of this board
showed that the HT regulator transistor had also been replaced at some
stage. I removed this transistor and a
check showed that it was shorted, so
no regulation of the HT rail was taking
place. This transistor too was not the
original type but it was an acceptable
equivalent.
Once again, I was unable to obtain
the original type (or even one the same
as the replacement) but a check of its
specifications showed that a TIP32
should do the job. The series regulator
transistor in this circuit is located in
the negative (earthy) leg of the bridge
rectifier and so is not subject to any
great voltage stress. I fitted a new
TIP32, reinstalled the power supply
board and hit the switch. Everything
came up as it should and I was able
to adjust the HT rail to the specified
value using the appropriate trimpot.
After that, I let the thing soak-test
for five minutes or so and then shut
it down again. This time the vertical
output transistor heatsinks were just
siliconchip.com.au
barely warm, which was a good sign.
Now satisfied that all was working
properly, I re-soldered the input connections to the vertical board, powered
it up and hooked a probe on the calibration terminal. Both traces showed
a nice square wave, so I switched it off
again and refitted the covers.
The scope is now working normally
but the academic question is this: did
the HT regulator transistor fail first,
thus raising the HT to a level that took
out the vertical output transistors? Or
did the latter fail first and knock out
the regulator transistor due to excessive current?
I’ll never know but at least I can get
on with checking out that pesky audio
amplifier.
Faulty infusion pumps
This column has recently featured
stories about maintaining state-ofthe-art medical equipment. K. D. of
Chermside, Qld works at the other end
of the spectrum, maintaining elderly
and obsolete medical gear in research
laboratories. Here’s his story . . .
Unfortunately, a lot of older medical
equipment is no longer supported by
the manufacturers and the specialised
parts and service tools are no longer
available. This means that maintaining
such equipment can be challenging
and often requires novel mechanical
and electronic solutions.
Just lately, I have been doing battle
with two 15-year-old Gemini PC-4
infusion pumps, originally used in
an intensive care unit (ICU) to deliver
fluids and drugs to patients. In the
laboratory, they had performed flawlessly, running over 30 hours a week.
However, when switched on after the
Christmas break, four of the eight channels across the two pumps gave error
messages and wouldn’t work.
The fault code related to the “air-inline” detector, a system that uses ultrasound to differentiate between liquid
and air in the pump tubing. However, I
couldn’t understand how half of these
could have failed at once. The error
code could also be associated with a
mechanical system that detects if the
pump has been dropped, so maybe
“someone” had had an accident. I removed the covers but it was clear that
the impact detectors hadn’t tripped.
DC measurements of the “air-inline” detector made no sense, so I
probed the circuit with a scope. The
circuit is driven by a series of pulses,
siliconchip.com.au
even when the pump is off. These
pulses were noticeably different when powered from the
mains as compared to the
batteries.
Then I noticed that, in addition to two large SLA batteries, these pumps had a 4.8V
70mAh NiMH battery on
the power supply board.
These batteries were quite
old, so I replaced
them “on-spec”
while I had the
pumps open. That
cured the problems
in both pumps and
I put the faults
down to the NiMH
batteries discharging to some critical
level over the holidays and then not
accepting a charge. I then ran the
pumps for several days and returned
them to service.
My victory was short-lived because
they subsequently both “bounced” on
me; and it was a big bounce as they
had more failed channels than before.
Not only that but different channels
had now failed.
I opened one pump and began comparing waveforms between a working
and a failed channel. This led me to
change a 2N4403 transistor which appeared to have marginally low gain.
That channel then began working and I
quietly cursed the designer for making
a circuit so dependent on component
specifications. I then switched on the
second pump which showed three
failed channels in the lab and had been
sitting on the workshop floor while I
worked on the first pump. It now gave
no errors at all, so what was going on?
I had a long think and eventually realised that the pumps were stored and
used in air-conditioned rooms but my
workshop was much hotter. So, maybe
I was seeing a thermally-sensitive
fault. Yet, that couldn’t really explain
why the errors had only started after
a prolonged period of non-use or why
a battery replacement had initially
cured all the faults.
Freezer spray confirmed that the
fault was indeed thermally sensitive
but it was difficult to spray individual
components on the tightly packed
boards. As a result, I moved some
suspect components off-board by
mounting them on stiff wire links so
that I could spray them individually.
Those components passed any test I
could throw at them and weren’t at all
sensitive to the freezer spray.
In fact, the fault seemed to be more
related to frost on the PCB from the
freezer spray than to the actual temperature.
Then I had another thought: humidity. It was a very long bow to draw but
it might just be plausible. For most
of the last year, the pumps had been
stored and used in a room with modern
air-conditioning. Then, not long before
the holidays, we had to move them to
a room with ancient and poorly controlled air-conditioning – this at a time
when Queensland was in the midst of
an extremely wet summer.
The boards had a fair amount of
sticky brown flux on them (dating back
to their manufacture), especially on
the wire connections to the ultrasound
transducers for the “air-in-line” system. And like many devices that have
been used in hospitals, the insides of
the pumps had a thick crust of dried
saline along the bottom, just below
the faulty circuits. This could have
absorbed moisture and increased the
humidity inside the case.
It was time to put my theory to the
test so I scraped away all the residues
and cleaned off the flux. I then washed
the “air-in-line” boards in water and
isopropyl alcohol, dried them for a
week in silica gel and coated them in
a protective lacquer.
Once reassembled, the errors had
gone. So it seems my earlier battery
and transistor replacements only
cleared the faults temporarily by virtue
of the circuits drying out while the case
was open. Hopefully, I have now found
the real cause but I’m still waiting for
SC
them to bounce my way again.
July 2013 63
The photo below shows how the small IR-ToUHF Converter board fits inside a universal
remote control while at right is the companion
UHF-To-IR Converter.
By JOHN CLARKE
Add a UHF link to a
universal remote control
Remote control extenders are old hat. Now you can add this tiny
UHF module to your IR remote control and operate appliances
from anywhere inside or outside your home. As well as the tiny
module inside the remote, you also need our UHF-To-Infrared
Converter which is positioned close to the device to be controlled.
O
VER THE YEARS, we have produced several infrared remote
control extenders, the most recent
being in October 2006. That project
essentially received the IR signal from
any remote control and the signal was
then retransmitted using an IR LED
that was attached to a long lead. This
could be placed closer to the appliance
being controlled (eg, in another room).
More recently, there have been
UHF remote control extenders. These
receive the pulsed IR signal from the
remote control and then re-radiate it at
2.4GHz. You then have a UHF receiver
elsewhere in your home which picks
up the 2.4GHz signal and converts it
back to infrared pulses to be received
by the appliance being controlled.
Both approaches make sense but
why not have a remote control that
64 Silicon Chip
works at both infrared and UHF, rather
than having a separate transmitter
unit? So that is what this project is
about. You build a tiny UHF module
into the remote control and power it
from the remote’s AA cells; there’s no
external remote transmitter and power
supply to worry about.
Of course, you still need a UHF
receiver/IR converter at the appliance
end and that’s also described here.
This approach is so much more
convenient than past remote control
extenders. For example, say you are
out on the balcony having a pleasant
lunch and the CD player is inside
providing background music. Want to
change a track and change the volume?
No need to wander back inside, find
the remote and then wander out again.
You just pick up the same hand-held
remote that you use inside and use it
where you are.
Both the UHF and infrared signals
are radiated simultaneously, so it does
not matter whether you are inside your
home or outdoors.
Sound like a good idea? We thought
so too and this project is the result.
We have designed a small PCB module that fits inside the remote control
case. You will need to check that it
will fit inside the remote control that
you want to convert. Some remote
controls will be too small or have very
little room inside the case but many
do have enough room, particularly
universal remotes.
What about current drain?
But what about the extra current that
will be drawn by the UHF module?
siliconchip.com.au
+3V
+
K
TO 3V
BATTERY
IN REMOTE
1 F
D1
1N4004
1k
MMC
4
A
–
1
Vdd
MCLR/GP3
GP5
100
X
1
OPTO1 4N25
2
Y
6
ANTENNA
2
1 F
3
IC1
GP4
PIC12F6756
I/P
GP1
47k
5
7
GP0
4
GP2
MMC
TX1
433MHz
TX
MODULE
DATA
5
Vss
1k
Vcc
8
ANT
GND
4N25
433MHz Tx MODULE
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2013
1N4004
IR-TO-UHF CONVERTER
A
K
ANT
Vcc
DATA
GND
3
6
1
Fig.1: the IR-To-UHF Converter circuit. The IR LED driver circuit in the remote feeds the 38kHz signal in via OPTO1 and
this drives pin 7 of PIC microcontroller IC1. The micro then powers and drives the 433MHz transmitter module (TX1).
Will it drain the cells by too much and
greatly reduce their life? No-one likes
having to continually replace batteries
in remote controls.
For this reason, we have been very
careful with this aspect and the current
drain is truly negligible. Typically, it
will be just a few nanoamps although
we measured one of our prototypes at
just 200 picoamps! That’s much less
than one thousandth of a microamp!
Compare that with the typical microamp or so drawn by a remote control
from its AA or AAA cells. Naturally,
more current is drawn from the battery
when transmitting both the IR and
UHF pulsed signal but it still does not
amount to much. In a typical universal remote, the average current while
transmitting increases from 10mA with
IR transmission alone to 12mA with
both IR and UHF transmission – an
increase of just 2mA.
Since remote controls only draw
significant current while buttons are
being pressed, the overall extra current
drain with UHF transmission added
+3V
is unimportant. The AA or AAA cells
will still last their shelf life (years).
The companion UHF-To-IR Convert
er is housed in a small plastic case.
At one end of the case it has a red
acknowledge LED as well as an IR
LED to retransmit the received UHF
signal as an IR signal. As well, there
is a 3.5mm socket to allow connection
of an external IR LED (ie, via a cable).
The converter runs from a 9-12V DC
plugpack and it draws a maximum of
50mA when transmitting, so any 9-12V
DC plugpack will be suitable.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the IRTo-UHF Converter to be built into the
remote control. It uses an optocoupler
(OPTO1), a PIC12F675 microcontroller (IC1) and a tiny UHF transmitter
module (TX1) which runs at 433MHz.
As stated, it’s powered from the remote’s two AA (or AAA) cells (ie, 3V).
The optocoupler is needed to allow for any of the possible LED drive
arrangements and provides isolation
+3V
X
A
(b)
K
Y
X
X
A
2.7
(TYP.)
(a)
from the rest of the circuit. The various
possibilities are shown in Fig.2. The
input of the optocoupler connects, via
a 100Ω resistor, across the IR LED drive
circuit on the remote control’s PCB.
For example, in the Altronics
A-1012 universal remote, the IR LED
drive is as depicted in Fig.2(a). In this
case, the “X” terminal input to the
optocoupler connects to the +3V supply rail and the “Y” terminal connects
to the cathode of the IR LED.
For arrangements such as Fig.2(b),
the +3V positive rail is easily accessible but the LED driver output needs to
be picked off the series resistor itself.
You may need to lift out the remote’s
PCB to access this resistor.
The optocoupler’s internal transistor is connected as an emitter follower,
with its base tied to the emitter with a
47kΩ resistor to speed up switching.
The resistor effectively discharges the
transistor’s base each time the opto’s
internal IR diode stops emitting (ie,
at the end of each pulse in the 38kHz
signal burst). This allows the transis-
X
A
K
(c)
2.7
(TYP.)
Y
2.7
(TYP.)
(d)
K
2.7
(TYP.)
A
K
Y
Y
Fig.2: the four possible IR LED driver arrangements in a remote control. The signal drive to the IR-To-UHF Converter
must be taken from the points labelled “X” and “Y” (see text for determining the configuration of your remote).
siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 65
OUT
ANTENNA
1k
ANT
Vcc
433MHz
RX
MODULE
GND
4
DATA
2
CARRIER
ADJUST
VR1
10k
433MHz Rx MODULE
MIN
MCLR/GP3
1
Vdd
GP0
GP5
GP4
GP2
100 F
16V
A
220
A
(ACK)
LED2
K
220
5
Vss
8
MAX
9–12V
DC IN
1k
7
IC1
6
PIC12F675- GP1
I/P
3
CON1
A
K
IN
GND
100 F
16V
100nF
RX1
D1 1N4004
REG1 78L05
+5V
CON2
EXTERNAL
IR LED
(IR LED)
LED1
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2013
Vcc
DATA
DATA
GND
ANT
GND
GND
Vcc
K
LEDS
UHF-TO-IR CONVERTER
1N4004
A
K
K
A
78L05
GND
IN
OUT
Fig.3: the UHF-To-IR Converter circuit picks up the transmitted 433MHz signal using RX1 and feeds it to PIC
microcontroller IC1. IC1 in turn drives an infrared LED (LED1) and an acknowledge LED (LED2).
tor to switch off faster than if its base
were left floating.
The opto’s emitter signal is applied
to the GP0 input (pin 7) of microcontroller IC1. With no 38kHz signal burst
present at pin 7, IC2 is in sleep mode.
Its GP1, GP2, GP4 & GP5 outputs are
all low, so transmitter TX1 is off and
the circuit draws minimal power at
around 12nA.
At the onset of signal at pin 7, IC1
wakes up and sets its GP1, GP4 &
GP5 outputs high (3V) to power up
the UHF transmitter (TX1). IC1 also
demodulates the 38kHz signal, so
that the output at pin 5 is identical to
the original modulation on the 38kHz
bursts.
TX1 transmits the UHF signal using a 170mm antenna which is just a
length of hook-up wire. After a period
of 600ms with no 38kHz signal, power
to TX1 is removed with GP1, GP4 &
GP5 going low.
Using a microcontroller might seem
like overkill for the circuit. However,
it was chosen simply because it can be
put to sleep and thereby draw negligible current from the remote control’s
cells. Any other approach, such as using a couple of CMOS timers (eg, 7555),
would have much higher current drain
than the remote control itself.
UHF-To-IR Converter
The modulated UHF signal needs
to be detected and converted back to
a stream of infrared pulses to control
the appliance being operated. For
that we need the separate UHF-To-IR
Converter referred to above.
The converter circuit is shown in
Fig.3 and comprises UHF receiver
RX1, another PIC12F675 microcontroller (IC1) and an IR LED (LED1).
The whole circuit is powered from
9-12V DC.
The UHF receiver is powered continuously, so that it is ready to receive a
transmission from the IR-To-UHF Con-
Measuring The Standby Current
How do we measure a standby current of only 12nA? After all, this is far below
the current ranges of any digital multimeter.
The procedure is to feed the supply to the circuit via a 100kΩ resistor but with a
switch connected across it to allow the circuit to be powered up normally; it does
draw more current at power up. Then, after a second or so when the micro has
gone to sleep, the switch is opened and the voltage across the resistor is measured.
For 12nA, the voltage measured across the 100kΩ resistor is 1.2mV.
66 Silicon Chip
verter in the hand-held remote. With
no signal present, the data output from
the UHF receiver is just random noise
with an amplitude of 5V. In this state,
the receiver operates at maximum gain,
due to its automatic gain control (AGC).
When a UHF signal is received, the
AGC reduces the receiver’s sensitivity
so that the detected signal is essentially noise-free. This is fed to the GP5
input (pin 2) of PIC micro IC1.
To determine if a signal is valid,
IC1 checks for periods where the data
line from the UHF receiver is at 0V for
at least 8ms. This indicates that the
AGC has reduced the sensitivity of
the receiver and that a transmission
is occurring. The 8ms periods also
indicate breaks between successive
bursts of 433MHz signal.
IC1 drives the IR LED (LED1) and
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows how the IR-To-UHF Converter board is mounted and wired
inside the Altronics A-1012 universal infrared remote control. The PCB
assembly should also fit inside many other universal remotes.
0V
+3V
4004
D1
13170151
IC1
OPTO1
4N25
1k
47k
PIC12F675
ANT
K
433MHz Tx
MODULE
100
A
C 2013
TX1
1k
1 F
IR to UHF
CONVERTER
+ 1 F
–
X
Y
TO IR LED
DRIVER CIRCUIT
IN REMOTE
ANTENNA:
170mm LONG
an Acknowledge LED (LED2) from
its GP1, GP2 & GP0 outputs; ie, GP0
drives LED2, while GP1 & GP2 drive
LED1. Note that the acknowledge LED
does not simply follow the data signal
level; it is only intended as a visible
confirmation that a valid signal is being received.
A second output is provided via a
3.5mm jack socket (CON2) for an external IR LED (if necessary). This LED can
be wired to a 3.5mm jack plug on the end
of a cable to allow the LED to be attached
or mounted near to the IR receiver of the
appliance(s) being operated.
The GP4 input of IC1 monitors the
voltage set by trimpot VR1 which is
across the 5V supply rail. Its wiper
voltage is converted to a digital value
within IC1, allowing the IR carrier
frequency to be adjusted to suit the
particular infrared receiver in the
appliance under IR control. The adjustment range is from 33.33kHz to
47.66kHz in 10 steps.
Setting VR1 to its mid position gives
38kHz. Usually, 38kHz is satisfactory
but some remotes may require a different carrier frequency to this.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: follow this parts
layout diagram to
build the IR-To-UHF
Converter. Power
comes from the
remote’s 3V supply,
while the input to
OPTO1 comes from the
remote’s IR LED driver
circuit (see Fig.2).
Main Features & Specifications
IR-To-UHF Converter
Transmission range to UHF receiver: >30m
Signal detect delay: 62μs for start and finish
UHF transmitter power down: 600ms from end of signal
Standby current: 12nA typical (12nA measured on prototype)
Operating current: unmodified IR hand-held remote = 10mA; with UHF transmission = 12mA total
UHF-To-IR Converter
Valid transmission: requires 8ms minimum quieting period
Acknowledge LED: 654ms time-out after a valid signal
Modulation frequency adjustment: 33.33-47.66kHz in 10 steps
Current consumption: 50mA during reception and transmission of an IR signal
IR transmission range: typically 2m to appliance receiver
Power is derived from a 9-12V DC
plugpack. This is fed in via diode D1
which provides reverse polarity protection. A 78L05 3-terminal regulator
then provides a 5V supply for RX1
and IC1.
IR-To-UHF converter assembly
Refer now to Fig.4 for the assembly
details on the IR-To-UHF Converter.
July 2013 67
23170151
100 F
78L05
100 F
IC1
A
A
220
220
Vcc
DATA
DATA
GND
VR1
10k
15107132
1k
PIC12F675
1k
ANT
GND
GND
Vcc
DC IN
LED2
ACK.
100nF
CON1
CARRIER
FREQUENCY
D1
4004
REG1
LED1
CON2
RX1
C 2013
UHF RECEIVER
toT IR
DEL RI O
r evLED
i e c eR F HU
ANTENNA: 170mm LONG
Fig.5: this parts layout diagram and the accompanying photo show the assembly details for the UHF-To-IR Converter.
Trimpot VR1 sets the output IR carrier frequency and should initially set mid-way to give a frequency close to 38kHz.
It’s built on a PCB coded 15107131
and measuring just 20 x 47mm.
Begin by checking the PCB for any
faults (rare), then start the assembly
by installing the resistors and diode
D1. Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but you should also check each
one using a digital multimeter. Make
sure the diode is installed with the
correct polarity.
The two capacitors go in next, followed by IC1 and optocoupler OPTO1.
Both IC1 & OPTO1 are soldered directly on the PCB since there is insufficient space in the remote control case
to allow sockets to be used.
Follow with the 433MHz UHF transmitter (TX1). This is installed parallel
to the PCB, so its leads have to be bent
down by 90° before soldering it in
place. It should be stood off the PCB
slightly so that it is about same height
above the PCB as the ICs. Once it’s in,
install the 170mm-long antenna wire.
Installation
The first step in the installation is
to open the remote control case. For
the Altronics A-1012, a screw within
the battery compartment must first be
removed, after which the two halves of
the case can be carefully prised apart
using a wide blade.
It’s then just a matter of installing
the power supply leads and the leads
that run from the remote’s IR driver
circuitry to the optocoupler. Note that
the supply leads must be run around
the edge of the case, so that they
don’t foul other parts when the case
Fig.6: these waveforms show the operation of the IR-To-UHF
Converter installed in the remote control. The yellow trace
shows the bursts of 38kHz applied to the IR LED. These are
coupled via the optocoupler to the microcontroller which
then sends pulses of the same length to turn on the 433MHz
transmitter (green trace). Scope timebase speed is 500μs/div.
68 Silicon Chip
is closed. If necessary, notches can be
cut into any internal plastic ribs and
the wires pressed into these notches.
Make sure that the supply leads
connect across the full 3V supply (and
not just across one cell) and be sure to
connect them the right way around.
As shown in Fig.2, the IR LED can
be driven in several different ways,
depending on the remote control. This
will determine how the “X” & “Y” connections from the converter are wired
to the remote’s IR driver circuitry.
Fig.2(a) and the photos show the
connection for the Altronics A-1012
remote. You can determine how the
IR LED is connected in your particular
remote using a multimeter (DMM).
First, set the DMM to a low ohms
range, then short its leads together and
Fig.7: these are the same signals as in Fig.6 but at a timebase speed 10 times slower, at 5ms/div, to show the entire
data block being transmitted. Note that there is a delay of
about 50μs between the 38kHz bursts and the equivalent
pulse fed to the transmitter. This is processing delay in the
microcontroller.
siliconchip.com.au
The completed
board assembly
clips into the
integral side ribs
in the UB5 plastic
case. Note how the
IR LED (LED1) is
bent across the top
of the 3.5mm jack
socket.
check that it shows a 0Ω reading. Clean
the multimeter contacts if the reading
is above 0.5Ω. Now, with the two cells
removed from the remote, measure the
resistance between the anode of its IR
LED and the positive battery terminal.
The readings are interpreted as
follows:
(1) a reading of about 2-3Ω means that
circuit is as shown in Fig.2(a) – ie, the
limiting resistor is in series between
the supply and the IR LED;
(2) a 0Ω reading between the anode and
the positive terminal means a direct
connection like that shown in Fig.2(b).
If you get a high resistance reading, check the resistance between the
cathode of the IR LED and the negative
battery terminal. In this case, the readings indicate the following:
(3) a reading of about 2-3Ω means that
circuit is as shown in Fig.2(c)
(4) a 0Ω reading indicates the arrangement shown in Fig.2(d).
Once you’ve determined the configuration, it’s simply a matter of tracing
the connection from the IR LED to its
limiting resistor and then running the
leads back to the “X” & “Y” connections on the converter PCB. In practice,
this means that you have to take the
drive from across the IR LED and its
series limiting resistor. Be sure to get
the connections to the remote’s drive
circuit the right way around, otherwise
the converter won’t work.
UHF-To-IR Converter assembly
The companion UHF-To-IR Converter is built on a PCB coded 15107132
Fig.8: these waveforms demonstrate the reception and
conversion of the remote control’s 38kHz infrared pulses.
The yellow trace shows the remote’s 38kHz signal, the
green trace is the Acknowledge LED signal and the blue
trace shows the infrared pulses emitted from the UHF-ToInfrared Converter. The scope timebase speed it 500μs/div.
siliconchip.com.au
and measuring 79 x 47mm. This clips
neatly into a UB5 plastic utility box
measuring 83 x 54 x 31mm and a frontpanel label (78 x 49mm) is affixed to
the lid.
Fig.5 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Install the resistors and diode
D1 first, taking care to ensure that the
latter is correctly orientated. The capacitors can then be fitted; make sure
that the two 100µF electrolytics go in
with the correct polarity.
REG1 can then be mounted, followed by the DC socket (CON1), the
3.5mm jack socket (CON2) and trimpot
VR1 (set it mid-way). That done, install
the UHF receiver (RX1), making sure
it goes in the right way around.
Installing the LEDs
Now for the two LEDs. LED1 must
be mounted at full lead length (25mm)
so that it can be later bent over and its
lens pushed through a hole in the side
of the box (above the 3.5mm socket).
LED2 is mounted with the top of its
lens 20mm above the PCB surface.
That’s done by pushing it down onto
a 15mm cardboard spacer inserted
between its leads before soldering it to
the PCB. Make sure the LED is orientated correctly, with its anode (longer)
lead going to the pad marked “A”.
Finally, complete the PCB assembly
by fitting a 170mm-long antenna wire.
The PCB assembly can now be completed by installing an 8-pin DIL socket
for IC1 but do not plug the PIC micro
in at this stage. That step comes later,
Fig.9: these waveforms are the same signals as in Fig.8 but
with a timebase speed 10 times faster to show more detail.
Note the rounding of the trailing edges of the transmitted
38kHz IR pulses (yellow trace) from the remote control
but the much cleaner signal being re-transmitted from the
UHF-To-Infrared Converter (blue trace).
July 2013 69
Modifying The 10-Channel
Remote Control Receiver
Simple changes let you install the IR receiver & the 433MHz UHF
receiver at the same time for use with both IR & UHF remotes
As good as it is, last month’s 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver can be
even more useful when teamed with an IR remote control that’s fitted with
the tiny IR-To-UHF Converter. A couple of modifications to the PCB and
some revised software for the microcontroller now allows it to be used
with both IR & UHF remote control signals.
By JOHN CLARKE
With the tiny UHF module installed in a remote, you can control
the modified 10-Channel Remote
Control Receiver via both IR and
UHF signals. When the remote control is within line of sight, the the
receiver works by relying on IR signals. However, if you are in another
room or outside your home, then the
link is via UHF and the operation
is seamless; there’s no need to do
anything to change modes.
Alternatively, you could have
two remotes to control the 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver, one
unmodified and one with the UHF
module installed. For example,
the receiver unit could be in your
workshop or garage (to operate the
doors perhaps) and you could have
the option of controlling it using an
unmodified IR unit located nearby or
via a modified unit with UHF from
inside the house.
The circuit changes required to
make this possible are quite simple.
The original circuit has both the IR
signal from IRD1 and the UHF signal
from RX1 being applied to the RB3
input of IC1. In practice, this meant
that you had to choose between installing either the infrared receiver
(IRD1) or the UHF receiver (RX1)
and install or remove the SET link
accordingly.
By contrast, the revised circuit
allows both IRD1 and RX1 to be installed and the micro automatically
selects between them. Fig.10 shows
the circuit details. As can be seen,
IRD1’s signal is applied to the RB3
input, while RX1’s signal is now
applied to the RB2 (SET) input. The
microcontroller separately checks
for signals from either path and
chooses the first valid signal.
after the power supply has been tested.
At the other end of the case, the
3.5mm socket hole is also centred
horizontally and is positioned 10.5mm
down from the lip. Again, use a pilot drill to start it, then enlarge it to
6.5mm.
The hole for LED1 is then drilled
3.5mm down from the lip directly
above the socket hole. Drill this hole
to 3mm, then drill a similar hole for
LED2 about 12mm to the right.
The PCB can now be clipped into
the slots in the side ribs of the box
(push the 3.5mm jack socket into its
hole first). Once it’s in place, the two
LEDs are then bent over and pushed
through their respective holes in the
adjacent end. Secure the assembly by
fitting the nut to the jack socket.
Finally, the front-panel label can be
downloaded (in PDF format) from www.
siliconchip.com.au (go to “Shop” and
then “Panel artwork”), printed out on
photo paper and affixed to the lid using
silicone or some other suitable adhesive.
The four corner holes for the case screws
are cut out using a sharp hobby knife.
Note: the panel artwork is free to
subscribers or if you purchase the PCB
from the SILICON CHIP Online shop,
Final assembly
The PCB simply clips into the integral ribs of the UB5 case. Before doing
this, you need to drill holes in the case
ends for the DC socket, the 3.5mm
socket and the two LEDs.
The DC socket hole can be drilled
first. This is positioned 6.5mm down
from the top lip of the base at the lefthand end and is centred horizontally.
Start this hole using a small pilot drill
to begin with, then carefully enlarge
it to 6.5mm using a tapered reamer.
70 Silicon Chip
Modifying the PCB
To modify the original PCB (coded
15106131), first cut the track that
leads from the DATA output of the
UHF receiver (RX1) at the point
where it connects to the track that
runs from IRD1’s pin 1 output to
pin 9 of IC1. Note that this track is
on the top side of the PCB. Do not
break the connection from pin 1 of
IRD1 to pin 9 of IC1.
That done, solder an insulated
wire link under the PCB between
the DATA output of RX1 and pin 8 of
IC1. The SET jumper must be left out.
Both IRD1 and RX1 need to be installed on the PCB for both reception
modes to be available. If you only
install one of these, the unused input
siliconchip.com.au
100
at pin 8 or pin 9 must be tied to ground. So, if IRD1 is
out of circuit, bridge pins 1 & 2 of IRD1’s pads. If RX1
is out of circuit, install the SET jumper.
100 F
16V
IRD1
IR
RECEIVER
10k
Modified PCB
9
RB1
RB3
IR
SHUNT
2
RB0
RA4
OPEN = IRD1 installed
CLOSED = IRD1 out
RX1
ANT
RA3
Vcc
433MHz
RX
MODULE
3
2
Revised software
Vdd
MCLR
1
A modified PCB, code 15106133, is also available that
includes the necessary track modifications.
Fig.11 shows the parts layout for this PCB. If both IRD1
and RX1 are installed, then both the IR SHUNT and UHF
SHUNT jumpers are left out. If either IRD1 or RX1 is left
out, then its associated shunt jumper must be installed.
14
4
3
7
6
The revised software for the microcontroller is coded
1510613B. It must be used regardless as to whether you
modify the original PCB or use the revised PCB design.
Note: this software is not suitable for use with the original
unmodified PCB.
The new software is available for download from
the SILICON CHIP website, while the revised PCB can be
purchased from the SILICON CHIP Online shop at www.
siliconchip.com.au The software is free to subscribers or
if you purchase the PCB, otherwise a small fee applies.
1
RA2
IC1
PIC16F88
18
-I/P
RA1
DATA
8
GND
11
OPEN = RX1installed
CLOSED = RX1 out
10
UHF
SHUNT
12
RB2
RA0
RB5
RA7
RB4
RA6
RB6
RB7
17
16
15
13
Vss
5
Fig.11 (below): the parts layout for the modified PCB. Be
sure to install the relevant SHUNT jumper if its receiver is
left out of circuit (see text).
CODE 2
315106133
3160151
C 2013
+ OUT0
+ OUT4
0V
+OUT9
433MHz Rx MODULE
100
1k
RX1
2
1k
1
1k
CODE
1k
1k
Shunt when
Receiver is
off PCB
SHUNT
UHF
1k
1k
1k
1k
100 F
100 F
100nF
IR
LED10
+ OUT8
IC3 ULN2003
1k
IC2 ULN2003
+12V
+ OUT7
100nF
D1
K
+ OUT6
100 F
A
ACK
+ OUT5
1k
1k
REG1
7805
+ OUT3
GND
DATA
DATA
Vcc
CON1
Fig.10 (above): the revised
front-end circuit for the
10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver. The outputs from
IRD1 & RX1 are now fed to
separate inputs in IC1 and
the micro automatically
selects between them.
CON2
+ OUT2
10k
& CODE2 OUT = TV
IN, CODE2 OUT = SAT1
OUT, CODE2 IN = SAT2
& CODE2 IN = CD PLAYER
4004
CODE1
CODE1
CODE1
CODE1
+ OUT1
10-CHANNEL
REVIE CEREMOTE
R ET O MERECEIVER
R LE N NA H C- 0 1
IC1 PIC16F88-I/P
CODE 1
ACK.
ANT.
Vcc
GND
GND
ANT
A
LED0
LED1
LED2
LED3
LED4
LED5
LED6
LED7
LED8
LED9
LED10
IRD1
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
4
2
1
Value
47kΩ
1kΩ
220Ω
100Ω
otherwise a small fee applies.
Testing
To test the unit, first check that IC1
has not been installed. That done,
apply power and check there is 5V
between pins 1 & 8 of the IC socket. If
siliconchip.com.au
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet orange brown
brown black red brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
not, check the supply polarity and that
D1 and REG1 are correctly orientated.
Assuming you do get 5V, switch off
and install IC1 with its notched end
towards the adjacent 100nF capacitor.
Now reapply power and check that the
red acknowledge LED flashes when the
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black brown brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
remote control buttons are pressed.
Note, if it does not work the 100Ω
resistor to the opto-coupler may need
to be switched out; try 47Ω or if that
doesn’t work, you can go as low as 22Ω.
The next step is to set the universal
remote control so that it produces the
July 2013 71
INNER CONDUCTOR
SOLDERED TO TIP
3.5mm MONO PLUG
SHIELD BRAID SOLDERED
TO SLEEVE
SINGLE CORE
SHIELDED CABLE
INNER CONDUCTOR
TO ANODE
IR LED
A
SHIELD BRAID
TO CATHODE
Making An IR LED Extension Cable
Depending on how your gear is arranged, you may also
want to make up a cable with a 3.5mm jack plug at one
end and an external IR LED at the other. Fig.12 shows the
details.You will need to use a suitable length of single-core
shielded cable, while the LED leads should be insulated
Fig.12: here’s how to make an IR LED extension cable
if you need one.
from each other using heatshrink tubing.
A larger piece of heatshrink can then be used to cover
the end of the cable, both LED leads and part of the lens.
Par t s Lis t
IR-To-UHF Converter
1 infrared remote control (eg,
Altronics A-1012)
1 double-sided PCB, code
15107131, 20mm x 47mm
1 433MHz transmitter (Jaycar ZW3100, Altronics Z 6900) (TX1)
1 170mm length of yellow light
duty hook-up wire
1 200mm-length red hook-up wire
1 200mm-length green hook-up
wire
1 200mm-length blue hook-up wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F675-I/P programmed
with 1510713A.hex (IC1)
1 4N25 or 4N28 optocoupler
(OPTO1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
Capacitors
2 1µF monolithic ceramic (MMC)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 47kΩ
1 100Ω
2 1kΩ
UHF-To-IR Converter
1 double-sided PCB, code
15107132, 79 x 47mm
1 UB5 box, 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 front panel label, 78 x 49mm
72 Silicon Chip
K
1 433MHz receiver (Jaycar ZW3102, Altronics Z6905A) (TX1)
1 PCB-mount 2.5mm DC socket
1 3.5mm PCB-mount switched
jack socket
1 DIL8 IC socket
1 170mm-length of light-duty
hookup wire
1 10kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F675-I/P programmed
with 1510713B.hex (IC1)
1 78L05 regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
1 3mm IR LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
Capacitors
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 1kΩ
2 220Ω
Optional
1 3.5mm mono jack plug
1 1m length single core screened
cable
1 3mm IR LED
1 100mm length 3mm-diameter
heatshrink tubing
correct code for your appliance. That
done, test it without the UHF-To-IR
Converter (ie, turn the converter off)
first to ensure the appliance can be
controlled using IR signals only.
Once that works correctly, the unit
can be tested with the UHF-To-IR Converter unit. Note that the converter’s IR
LED should be pointed in the general direction of the appliance to be controlled.
To test it, power up the UHF-To-IR
Converter, cover the IR LED on the
remote with a finger and check that the
appliance can be controlled via the UHF
radio link. If it doesn’t work, adjust VR1
as you operate the remote control until
the appliance responds. Usually, setting
VR1 mid-way (corresponding to a carrier
frequency of 38kHz) will be suitable.
Once it’s operating correctly, try using the remote to control the appliance
from another room. You should get a
free-air range of 30 metres of more but
the range will be less than this inside
a house, depending on any obstacles
(walls, etc) between the remote and
the UHF-To-IR Converter.
Finally, note that the IR receivers in
many appliances are so sensitive that
they will respond to IR signals that are
bounced off the walls or the ceiling of
the room. So experiment before going
to the trouble of making up the extension cable if you can’t aim the IR LED
in the UHF-To-IR Converter directly
SC
towards the appliance.
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FROM ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, you can subscribe to the on-line edition (only) of SILICON CHIP for
$AU85.00 for 12 issues. (Of course, you can also subscribe to the printed edition outside Australia).
Or in Australia you can subscribe to BOTH the print edition AND the on-line edition, for the ultimate in
versatility, for just $125.00 (yes, that’s only $20 over the print edition subscription price). That’s a very
handy option for anyone who is travelling – read SILICON CHIP online from anywhere in the world!
You can also convert from a printed edition or on-line edition to a combined edition if you wish.
There are many other options available, such as shorter or longer subscription (eg, 6 and 24 months),
New
Zealand/other overseas offers, subs with binders (Australia only) and so on.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2013 73
There are far too many to list here but they are all fully explained on the “subscriptions” page on the
website: www.siliconchip.com.au
Two demonstration
circuits for human
colour vision
By JAMES GODING
T
HE HUMAN EYE can see a range
of different colours, representing
light with a range of wavelengths from
about 680nm (deep red) down to about
390nm (deep violet). But we can be
fooled into seeing many colours by a
TV screen that contains just red, green
and blue light emitters (RGB).
Why is that? And why do printers and artists use a different set of
colours: cyan, magenta, yellow and
black (CMYK)?
These two simple circuits aim to
reveal the operation of the human eye
and clear up the mysteries through
practical demonstrations. Build them
into little boxes and you will have a
source of delight and amusement for
children, and education for young and
not so young adults.
The human eye contains two types
of photo-receptor: around 120 million
“rods”, which are concentrated around
the edges and 6-7 million “cones”
which are mostly in the centre of the
retina (the fovea). The cones allow us
to see colour and most people have
three types, with broad sensitivity
peaks centred towards the red end of
1.0
BLUE
the spectrum (560 nanometres), green
(530 nanometres) and blue (420 nanometres) – see Fig.1.
The perception of colour by the
brain depends on the relative amounts
of stimulation of each of these types
of photo-receptor. Because the photoreceptors have persistence, rapidly
alternating red and green light gives
the effect of stimulating the red and
green receptors simultaneously. The
brain interprets this as yellow. And
because the photo-receptor absorption
peaks are broad, pure yellow light at
585-590nm also stimulates both red
and green receptors.
This is demonstrated by the circuit
of Fig.2. IC1 is a 555 timer which generates a quasi-sawtooth waveform with
a frequency set using potentiometer
VR1. This is buffered by op amp IC2b,
half of an LMC6482 rail-to-rail op amp
and then fed to the other half of this op
amp which acts as a comparator. VR2
is used to adjust the voltage which
the sawtooth waveform is compared
against, producing a variable-duty
cycle PWM output at pin 1 of IC2a.
This output is used to drive the red
Fig.1: the
human eye has
three colour
sensitivity
peaks centred
on 560nm (red),
530nm (green)
& 420nm (blue).
RED
GREEN
BLUE
LED
0.2
643
625
590
530
0.4
568
0.6
468
ABSORBANCE
0.8
RED
LED
GREEN
LED
YELLOW
LED
400
450
500
550
600
WAVELENGTH IN NANOMETRES (nm)
74 Silicon Chip
650
700
element in LED1 which emits light at
625nm. The same signal is also fed
to PNP transistor Q1, which acts as
an inverter, turning on the green element (568nm) while ever the red one
is off and vice versa. So you can use
VR2 to adjust the relative on-times of
LED1 and LED2 while changing the
frequency with VR1.
When the rate of flashing is slow and
the duty cycle is set at about 50%, the
viewer sees alternating red and green
but as the flashing rate is increased,
there comes a point where the LED
appears yellow. Under conditions of
rapid flashing, when the duty cycle
knob is rotated, there is a smooth
transition from red to orange to yellow
and then to green. Slowing the flashing
rate provides proof that no trickery is
involved.
Note that the red and green cone sensitivity curves shown in Fig.1 overlap
much more closely than do the green
and blue. Despite this, we are still able
to distinguish subtle variations in the
shades between green and red because
our brains are interpreting the differences in absorption between the two
different types of cone cell.
We should point out that some 8%
of Caucasian males have red/green
colour blindness (dichromacy), mostly
due to genetics. Because females have
two X chromosomes and the genes to
express colour vision are on this chromosome, they effectively have two
copies of these genes and so are much
less likely to develop colour blindness.
While called “blindness”, in most
cases the result is a reduction in the
ability to distinguish between certain
shades of red, yellow and green.
People with one of these conditions
will perceive the transitions between
red, green and yellow (if visible) at
different points than those without.
siliconchip.com.au
V+
(4.5–9V)
100nF
1k
7
6
100k
FREQUENCY
8
VR2
10k
3
IC1
555
2
VR1
1M
6.8k
4
5
DUTY
CYCLE
6.8k
1
5
6
IC2: LMC6482
27k
27k
2
3
15k
1
IC2a
E
B
C
4
8
Q1
PN200
ZD-0252
7
IC2b
2.2k
330
220nF
AG
AR
JAYCAR
ZD-0252
2V
AG K AR
LED1
PN200
K
B
1V
C
E
Fig.2: this demonstration circuit uses a 555 timer as a sawtooth oscillator. Its output is buffered by IC2b & compared
in comparator IC2a with a voltage set by VR2. IC2a then directly drives the red section in a bi-colour LED (LED1) &
the green section in LED1 via transistor Q1. VR2 adjusts the relative on-times of the two colours.
By the way, it is a myth that dogs and
cats can’t see colour – they have two
types of cones, blue and yellow, giving
them similar (but not identical) vision
to that of a human with dichromatic
colour blindness.
Introducing blue
That brings us to the circuit shown
in Fig.3 which uses an RGB LED
(LED1), allowing you to experiment
with any combination of red, green
and blue light to see what colour the
result appears. The Jaycar ZD0012
RGB LED used is a “Tri 5 Superflux”
with wavelengths of 468nm (blue),
528nm (green) and 643nm (red). The
three LED elements are driven by three
potentiometer-controlled constant current sources.
LED2 can be virtually any low cost
red LED and should be positioned so
that its lens is hidden. It is used not
for its light but for its forward voltage;
this is used to bias the bottom ends of
the three pots so as to maximise their
useful range of rotation. A 2.4V Zener
diode would also work but a red LED
is easier to obtain.
If all three knobs are turned fully
clockwise, the LED output appears
approximately white, since each type
of cone in your eye is being stimulated
more or less equally. If the blue knob
is turned down, the colour changes
to yellow. If the red knob is turned
down, the colour changes to turquoise
(cyan) and if the green knob is turned
down the colour changes to purple
(magenta).
By manipulating different combinations of the settings of the knobs, any
colour can be produced. For example,
pink is produced by mixing a small
siliconchip.com.au
amount of green with a small amount
of blue and adding a slight excess of
red. This is of course the equivalent of
mixing red and white light.
Some limitations should be mentioned. Because the coloured elements
of the LEDs are slightly displaced from
each other, the colour merging is not
quite perfect and the effects are best
seen at a slight distance.
Finally, these toys are endlessly
fascinating for children but they forget
to turn them off. To conserve battery
life, a pushbutton switch could be used
for the power.
the white paper beneath and so we
combine inks in a subtractive manner.
Cyan ink absorbs red light, allowing
green and blue to be reflected from the
white paper and the combination of
the reflected green and blue light gives
it its cyan hue. Similarly, magenta ink
absorbs green light but reflects red and
blue, while yellow ink absorbs blue
light but not red or green.
So if we put a layer of cyan ink down
on paper, then yellow, light that would
stimulate the red and blue sensitive
cones in our eyes is absorbed, leaving
just green wavelengths and thus we
see it as green. Similarly, red can be
made with magenta and yellow inks
and blue can be made with cyan and
magenta inks.
Black can be made by combining
cyan, magenta and yellow inks but
black ink is usually used as well as the
other three, since black is a common
colour in printing and this reduces
the total amount of ink used. There
are also other benefits that we won’t
SC
go into here.
Further experiments
Now let’s look at the question we
asked in the first paragraph: why do
we use CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow
& black) inks rather than RGB (red,
green & blue) like a TV or computer
screen? The answer is that video displays create colour additively, just like
our second circuit. But ink works by
absorbing certain wavelengths of light
that would otherwise be reflected from
+9V
VR1
10k
C Q1
B
E
VR2
PN100 10k
C
B
E
Q2
VR3
PN100
10k
B
C
Q3
PN100
E
+2.3V
1.5k
1.5k
A
LED2
LED2
K
K
A
LED1
1.5k
AR
AG
AB
K
PN100
B
AR K AB AG
C
E
Fig.3: this circuit drives an RGB LED (LED1) via three variable constant
current sources based on transistors Q1-Q3 and potentiometers VR1-VR3.
July 2013 75
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Trailer light
testing unit
erate the lights from within a motor
vehicle, the user simply connects the
trailer plug into the unit’s test socket
and the unit then sequentially runs
through all the light functions.
Each light function is powered
for about nine seconds, eg, the left
blinker circuit flashes for a period
of nine seconds, then extinguishes,
This unit was designed to make
testing and checking trailer lights
easier and less time-consuming.
Rather than connecting each light
circuit one by one with alligator clip
leads, or asking someone else to op-
REG1 7805
+5V
OUT
A
K
1
4
S2
+5V
Vdd
CP1
O9
O8
O7
1 F
O6
IC2
4017B
O5
O4
O3
15
O2
MR
O1
Vss
8
100k
2C 17
3
3 3B
3C 16
4
4 4B
4C 15
5 5B
5C 14
6 6B
6C 13
7 7B
7C 12
8 8B
16
CP0
1C 18
2 2B
2
5
14
1 1B
1
2
13
100nF
IC3 ULN2803
OPTO1
4N35
IN
GND
1 F
LED1
5
then the brake/stop light function
illuminates for nine seconds, then
extinguishes, then the tail light function illuminates for nine seconds,
then the right blinker flashes for a
period of nine seconds, then both
the stop and tail lamps function
together. The last part of the cycle
tests the functions of the left blinker
O0
O5-9
12
11
9
9
4 x 27k
8C 11
COM 10
E
6
5
IC4 ULN2803
1
10
1 1B
1C 18
7
2 2B
2C 17
4
3 3B
3C 16
2
4 4B
4C 15
3
5 5B
5C 14
6 6B
6C 13
7 7B
7C 12
8 8B
9
8C 11
COM 10
E
S2 FUNCTIONS
1: LEFT BLINKER
2: STOP LIGHTS
3: TAIL LIGHTS
4: RIGHT BLINKER
5: SELF-RUN
+5V
12
10
10k
100nF
22k
MR
16
Vdd
O13
O12
Rtc
O11
O9
15
13
O8
IC1
14
Ctc 4060B O7
6
O6
4
O5
5
11
RS
O4
7
O3
Vss
9
8
10k
3
2
1
D6 1N4148
K
Q6
BC327
E
C
2.7k
B
A
D5 1N4148
K
A
4N35
LED
1N4148
A
76 Silicon Chip
100 F
K
K
A
3
6
1
siliconchip.com.au
and the brake/stop lights.
This sequence loads up the common earth wire of the trailer wiring
in order to detect high resistance
joints and problems in the common
earth wire that carries the currents of
all the lights. If the earth wire is not
adequate, then random and confused
lighting can happen.
IC1 is a 4060 wired as an oscillator which simply gives a pulse
output close to the flash rate of a
typical blinker on most modern
vehicles and also a cycle of about
nine seconds for each light function.
Therefore, the 4017’s outputs have
an on period of about nine seconds,
which energises the appropriate
relays for each light function via
ULN2803 transistor arrays IC3 & IC4
and BD140 transistors Q1-Q4.
This circuit also allows for applying power to each individual light
function on the trailer, for tracing
faults such as open circuits, short
circuits and poor or intermittent
connections between the trailer plug
and the lights.
Rotary switch S2 is used to place
the circuit into self-run mode (pos
ition 5) or to test each individual
light function (positions 1-4). When
D7 1N5408
A
K
10k
10k
E
B
10k
E
Q1
BD140
B
C
Q2
BD140
C
B
Q3
BD140
C
F2 5A
+12V
S1
F1 7.5A
10k
E
positions 1-4 are selected, the 4N35
optocoupler (OPTO1) is switched on
because of current through its input
LED via the internal 2.7kΩ resistor
of the ULN2803’s inputs.
When OPTO1 is on (ie, S2 in positions 1-4), this switches on Q6 and
holds both the 4017 and 4060 reset.
As a result, for each of these selections, constant power is applied to
the lights under test. This includes
both the left and right blinkers. In
this case, either Q1 or Q4 is switched
on constantly to aid fault finding.
When S2 is set to the self-run pocontinued on page 78
E
B
Q4
BD140
E
C
B
Q5
BC327
2.7k
RLY2
K
RLY1
0V
D4
A
A
K
BUZZER
BUZ1
RLY4
K
D2
1 F
C
RLY3
K
D1
TRAILER
UNDER TEST
PLUGS INTO
THIS SOCKET
RIGHT
BLINKER
TAIL
LIGHTS
D3
A
A
STOP
LIGHTS
THIS CONNECTOR
USED FOR
PLUGGING INTO
VEHICLE TO TEST
LIGHTING SIGNALS
FOR ANY TRAILER
LEFT
BLINKER
BD140
D1–D4: 1N4004
A
K
siliconchip.com.au
1N5408
A
K
7805
BC327
B
E
B
C
C
GND
IN
E
GND
OUT
July 2013 77
Circuit Notebook – Continued
MICROPHONE JACK
and this greatly improves the situation but the required cable can be
quite pricey at around $30.
You can quite easily make one
yourself for less; this one cost around
$10. You will need a 3.5mm audio/
video (4-contact) plug, two 3.5mm
stereo line sockets, some shielded
cable, a 10µF capacitor and a 4.7kΩ
resistor. The 10µF capacitor blocks
the DC bias voltage used to power
the iPhone’s internal electret microphone (~2.7V) while the 4.7kΩ
resistor loads down that pin to signal to the iPhone than an external
microphone is connected.
If you get a sub-miniature 10µF
capacitor (or a tantalum capacitor)
then this can be fitted inside the microphone socket housing (assuming
you are using a 3.5mm line socket)
while if you use a small 0.25W 4.7kΩ
resistor, this can be hidden inside
the heatshrink tubing used to cover
the point where the cables join.
You can use two layers of heatshrink to protect these joints as
much as possible and prevent them
from coming apart if the cable is subject to abuse during transport or use.
Bruce Pierson,
Dundathu, Qld. ($35)
IC1 and IC2 are fed from +5V from
REG1, a 7805 3-terminal regulator.
The changeover relays also provide the means to use the unit to
test the light signal outputs of any
vehicle with a trailer socket. The
unit simply simulates being a whole
trailer lamp load and in this mode
doesn’t need a separate battery to be
connected.
This unit can be used for testing
both incandescent lamps and also
the now common LED lights. On this
note though, this unit deliberately
uses incandescent lamps to prop-
erly load up the light circuits close
to worst case current consumption
loads, as the smaller LED currents
can mask high resistance joints
either in the trailer or the towing
vehicle.
Note that the unit can be modified
to run from 24V without any changes
apart from using 24V relays instead
of 12V relays. Alternatively, 12V
relays could be used together with
suitable current-limiting resistors in
series with the coils.
Peter Howarth,
Gunnedah, NSW. ($60)
10 F
iPHONE PLUG
4.7k
HEADPHONE JACK
MIC
LEFT
GND
RIGHT
Audio breakout cable
for the iPhone
It’s quite convenient to use an
iPhone for audio recording but the
internal microphone isn’t really up
to the job for all but the most basic
tasks. You can connect a dynamic
or self-powered condensor microphone to the audio in/out jack socket
Trailer light testing unit –
continued from page 77
sition 5, OPTO1 is off and the 4060
runs and clocks the 4017. The circuit
then sequentially runs through all
the light functions on the trailer,
rather than the user having to manually select each test.
Power comes from the 12V battery which directly feeds the trailer
lamps and the relays via fuse F1.
Transistor Q5 is connected across
the fuse and sounds a warning via
the piezo buzzer if the fuse is blown.
Are Your S ILICON C HIP Issues
Getting Dog-Eared?
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just lying around in a cupboard or on a shelf? Can you
quickly find a particular issue that you need to refer to?
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AT
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PLUS P
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Order now from www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/4
or call (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number
or mail the order form in this issue. *See website for overseas prices.
78 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
+5V
(CERAMIC PATCH ANTENNA)
4.7k
GND
GLOBALSAT
EM406A
GPS RECEIVER
MODULE
Vin
Rx
Tx
GND
1PPS
2
4
3
6
10k
4
B
5
C
Q1
BC548
7
E
6
3
5
S1
19
RTC
SYNC
S2
22k
PICAXE
ICSP
10k
2
+V
C6
C0
C4
B0
C1
C3
Vdd
2x
4.7k
1
1
8
GPS
LOCAL
DISPLAY
+5V
100nF
IC1
PICAXE 20M2
B6
C2
B5/SDA
C7
B7/SCL
C5
B4
B3
SER.OUT
B2
SER.IN
B1
20x4 SERIAL
LCD MODULE
10
18
9
SDA
Many PICAXE, Arduino and other
microcontroller development boards
have a Real Time Clock (RTC) for
timekeeping and this can be useful
in certain applications such as data
logging or controlling external hardware on a schedule. You can also get
small I2C RTC daughterboards for
less than $10. I2C stands for “Inter-IC
communications” and is a common
2-wire serial standard.
In most cases, the timekeeping is
based on a 32.768kHz crystal and
depending on its tolerance and how
well it has been calibrated, regular
adjustments may be required to correct for drift. The setting of these and
other I2C RTCs can be a chore so this
circuit was designed to make life a
little easier.
When sync button S2 is pressed,
the attached I2C RTC is synchronised to GPS time, including setting
the date. The circuit is based on IC1,
a PICAXE20M2 that receives UTC
(Universal Co-ordinated Time) data
from an EM406A GPS receiver using an RS-232 serial link. IC1 then
transmits the time and date over the
I2C bus, to set the attached RTC. An
LCD shows both the GPS time/date
and that of the connected RTC.
The GPS time/date shown on the
LCD can be displayed as UTC time/
date, local time/date or local time
with daylight saving. These are cycled through using pushbutton S1.
The software is aware of leap
siliconchip.com.au
GND
13
RTC
11
14
HEADER TO
SUIT RTC
15
16
17
BC548
0V
20
0V
B
E
Setting a Real Time
Clock with GPS time
SCL
12
years so it can correctly calculate
and display the local time and date,
based on the UTC time/date from the
GPS signal. The time zone is hardcoded into the software so the lines
near the top of the file will need to
be changed to suit your time zone.
Similarly, the I2C address of the RTC
is set in the code to a common value
for such devices (D0).
For convenience, an I2C display
is used so that the micro can communicate with the display and RTC
using the same pair of pins, B5 for
data (SDA) and B7 for clock (SCL).
These have the standard 4.7kΩ pullup resistors for low-speed I2C.
There isn’t much else to the circuit other than a transistor buffer/
inverter for the serial signal from the
GPS module (Q1), a bypass capacitor
for IC1, a PICAXE in-circuit serial
programming (ICSP) connector, the
two pushbuttons and the LCD. The
C
whole circuit
David Worb
runs from a 5V
is this mon oys
th’s winner
supply.
of a $150 g
ift voucher
from
Most of the
Hare & Forb
es
work in developing the software
went into communicating with the LCD and extracting the
date from the GPRMC NMEA serial
stream. Note that most I2C LCDs use
the PCF8574 port expander chip but
the pin-outs can vary.
The 20M2 is set to run at 32MHz
because there is a lot of number crunching happening in the
background between LCD display
updates. An LCD update happens
whenever an NMEA GPRMC string
is detected.
The BASIC source code for this
project is available for download
from the SILICON CHIP website.
David Worboys,
Bankstown, NSW.
co nt ri bu ti on
MAY THE BEST MAN WIN!
As you can see, we pay $$$ for contributions to Circuit Notebook.
Each month the BEST contribution (at the sole discretion of the editor)
receives a $150 gift voucher from Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse.
That’s yours to spend at Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse as you see fit
- buy some tools you’ve always wanted, or put it towards that big
purchase you’ve never been able to afford!
www.machineryhouse.com.au
Contribute NOW and WIN!
Email your contribution now to:
editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
or post to PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW
July 2013 79
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Featuring USB/SD card playback with easy to use controls. All channels
feature balanced XLR, unbalanced 6.35mm, insert inputs, high/mid/low
adjustment, pan & gain effects level. Channels 5 & 6 are combined on
the one fader/controls. Includes power supply.
NEW!
Hooks up to virtually any amplifier,
stereo or portable speakers to
stream audio wirelessly from your
smartphone or tablet. In-built
rechargeable lithium battery offers
up to 10 hours of music streaming
before recharging (via USB).
®
Top Value 6 Channel Mixer With USB Playback
Connect your turntable
to a regular aux input.
Great for listening to the footy commentary at
the game. Or accessing the huge variety of new
digital stations on offer. Jog wheel tuning with 10
station presets & headphone socket. Requires
4xAA batteries (pick some up in-store!).
259
Ideal size for
bands,
theatre &
small venues.
Listen to music & take
phone calls at the tap of
C 9019
a button! Superb wireless audio
performance for music listening, plus
inbuilt mic and phone controls for handsfree talking. Range up to 10m. In-built
batteries recharge via USB( ≈10 hrs
operation).
49.95
$
A 1102
Take Temperatures Without Fuss!
A quick and painless method for taking kids (and
adults) temperature. Measurements take just
seconds by placing the end of the unit into the
ear. Sealed ‘easy clean’ temperature sensor.
NEW!
Folds up to about the size
of an Altronics catalogue!
129
$
Stay Charged Up On Your Travels!
This folding solar panel charger is an ideal way to keep your phone or
tablet charged when camping, hiking etc. 10W panel with 1.5A 5V DC
USB output. Charges a typical smartphone in 2-4 hours (depending on
conditions). Multiple units can be daisychained for faster charging.
NEW!
119
$
X 0400
Compact
design, easy
to carry
around.
Personal Alcohol Breathalyser
Utilises the same fuel cell technology as law
enforcement devices. Far more accurate than
most cheap semi-conductor based units.
Provides readings for personal use.
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
Chip
» 80 S
Springvaleilicon
VIC: 891
Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
NEW!
X 0202
19
$
.95
Waterproof Head Torch
Weatherproof design with 4 high
brightness white LED’s and
adjustable headband. Great for
working under cars or camping/hiking. Two brightness settings & flash
mode. Requires 2xAAA batteries.
Or 4 for
$80!
Flush Mount
3W LED Lamp
NEW!
25.95
$
X 2402
Runs from 12V or 24V DC - ideal
for 4WDs, caravans and RV’s.
Super low profile (28mm deep)
is great for cabinets. 62mmØ
mounting hole. Warm white.
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
siliconchip.com.au
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
NEW!
T 5032
T 2460
SAVE $50
Great for
servicing &
re-work
NEW!
14.95
$
T 5030
Micron® 100W Digital Lead Free Soldering Station
Handy Tool
Carry Cases
Generates high tip temperatures suitable for lead free soldering (200° to
450°C). In-built power saving mode reduces power consumption and dramatically increases tip life. A high quality ceramic element allows rapid tip heat
recovery and consistency. Includes 0.5mm tip.
Impact resistant plastic tool cases with
removeable centre section.
T 5030: 315x175x130mm, 5kg.
T 5032: 410x210x185mm, 10kg.
20%
OFF
209
$
28.95
$
Optional SMD tweezers T 2461 $119
2 Year Warranty
Suits lead free soldering
Get More Tools For Your Dollar...
Super-Tough
Equipment
Carry Cases!
IP67 rated for the
ultimate dust and water
protection for your
precious equipment.
Ideal for storing test
equipment, cameras,
computers and
sensors. Foam inner
can be customised to
suit your equipment.
Foam lined lid for
secure fit. Latches
can be padlocked.
T 5052-65 include
shoulder strap.
Size
SAVE $50
SAVE $20
199
$
139
$
Q 1246
*Dimensions
are external
Part
Normally
365x266x165mm
T 5050
$94.95
Now...
$74
465x365x185mm
T 5052
$179
$140
515x435x199mm
T 5054
$269
$199
650x430x250mm
T 5065
$485
$379
Just like
the brand
names for
far less!
M 8261
9-15V 20A
Also available in 100MHz
SAVE $40
159
$
Includes SMD
measurement
adaptor
Powertran® Analog Lab Power Supplies
True RMS DMM & Insulation Tester
M 8263 9-15V 30A
These compact, fan cooled, switchmode power supplies deliver up to a huge
30A regulated output, adjustable between 9 and 15V. Plus fixed 13.8V setting.
Ideal for comms equipment or servicing. Low noise design. 85% efficiency.
155x70x205mm.
SAVE $100
Brings together insulation testing functions & a
digital multimeter into one compact unit.
Internal memory records up to 99 readings.
Features: • 250-1000V insulation testing
• Resistance • Frequency • Capacitance
• Temperature • Continuity • Backlit LCD
• Cat III 1000V, Cat IV 600V
Ideal for checking
response of audio
circuits.
Q 1562
SAVE $30
269
$
Ideal for field
servicing
Professional Grade Function Generator
T 5036
Operates as a standard waveform generator with sinusoidal, triangle and
square wave outputs. DC offset and symmetry. Adjustable output between
0.03Hz & 3MHz. Plus a 3 MHz counter. Size: 251W x 291D x 91Hmm.
NEW!
29
$
.95
±3mm
accuracy
Double Sided Parts Case
Nifty parts case with adjustable dividers for up
to 15 compartments on one side, plus 10
removeable containers on the other.
SAVE 20%
55
$
Q 1282
T 2251
SAVE $60
99
$
NEW!
29.95
$
T 2171
22pc Palm Ratchet Driver Set
A ratchet wrench designed for working in tight
spaces. Fits in the palm of your hand, or use
with the optional screw in wrench handle.
Supplied with a variety of tips and sockets.
Adjustable
for different
surfaces.
Get an accurate distance
measurement in seconds!
Contact Free IR Digital
Thermometer
This laser tape measure provides
an instant ‘one touch’ measurement - up to 30m. Plus calculation
modes such as add, subtract,
pythagorean, square & cubic
measurements.
...with laser guided beam for pin point
accuracy! Professional accuracy for
an affordable price. Ideal for measuring whilst equipment is operating.
0.1° accuracy from -20°C to 270°C.
Includes batteries.
Follow <at>AltronicsAU
siliconchip.com.au
499
$
www.facebook.com/Altronics
Express Order
Hotlines:
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
Q 0200A
Atten® 25MHz Digital Storage Oscilloscope
Perfect for those in R&D, product development or service of complex
electronic equipment. Features 2 channels with real-time 500MS/s
sampling. The colour 5.7” TFT display screen can be set up to simultaneously display the waveform plus indicate the measured wave voltage, peak to peak plus RMS, frequency, duty cycle etc. Realtime
adjustments via PC can be made using included software. Store data
to a USB stick or download it to PC. 2 year warranty.
SAVE $30
119
$
T 2650
Heavy Duty Go-Anywhere Gas
Iron & Blow Torch
Use it anywhere, no need for messy
extension leads! The ultimate tool for
enthusiasts or tradies. It not only solders
(550°C max), it can be used as a blow
torch up to 1300°C for brazing and heat
shrinking. Self standing design. ≈1.5
hours use per cartridge (mid setting).
9pc 1000V Rated
Insulated Tool Kit
Great for electricians,
technicians or anyone
working on mains
equipment! Includes cutters,
pliers, wire strippers, 5
screwdrivers, 240V test
driver and 2 rolls of tape.
SAVE 24%
45
$
T 2175
July 2013 81
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
Great Value AV & PA Equipment
Stay Powered Up!
NEW!
34.95
$
A 0309
SAVE $71
369
$
2 Year Warranty
Biema® Stereo Power Amplifier - Up to 350W per channel!
Extraordinary value for money! Brilliant performance, producing a smooth, crisp sound
with plenty of grunt when required. Features • 6.35mm/RCA inputs • Fan cooled
• Binding post, 6.35mm & Speakon outputs • Host of protection features • Power into
4Ω 2 x 350W • Power into 8Ω 2 x 200W.
A 4156 2x200W
SAVE $76
299
$
Flat Core HDMI Leads
Korjo® 4xUSB Travel Adaptor
3DTV compatible. Superb quality
for any home theatre system. High
speed HDMI with Ethernet (V1.4).
Lifetime warranty.
Enough ports for all your portable devices! 2.1A
max current shared between 4 USB ports.
Includes adaptors for Australian, US, UK and
European outlets. 100-240V ac.
A 4154 2x100W
Part
RRP
Now...
5m
P 7334
$49
$42
10m
P 7336
$89
$79
15m
P 7338
$139
$119
SAVE 28%
25
$
Access over 14,000 internet radio stations from your home hi-fi!
This stylish wireless internet radio player will perfectly compliment your existing AV
system. It provides you with access to DAB+ digital radio stations, plus virtually any
internet radio station or podcast via wireless internet (no computer required!). Plus it
can stream music stored on your PC via UPnP. Size: 430x90x285mm.
SAVE 14%
REDUCED!
399
A 1170
40
$
A 3084
Value 3 Way HDMI Selector
An economical way to switch
between 3 HDMI sources. No power
required! Size: 104 x 120 x 26mm.
New 50m rolls.
Just 80¢ a metre!
SAVE 19%
W 2193
$
With Infra-Red Learning
Jumbo 4 In 1 Remote Control
• Great for the kids! • Each button is about
the size of a 20c coin! • Pre-programmed with
1000’s of codes, plus IR learning • Requires
2xAA batteries • Size: 284 x 128mm.
SAVE 26%
40
$
High Power Speaker Cable
Dynalink Infra-Red Extender Kit
®
Great for controlling equipment when its located inside
cabinets or entertainment units. Kit includes hub, IR
target, four IR emitters & power supply. Foxtel
compatible (non IQ only).
VALUE!
12.95
Great for making speaker leads for
live venues or DJ’s. Double insulated
with soft outer sheath. 1800W rated.
Buy 2
for $20
Handy Car USB
Adaptor
Stay charged up on
the road! Max 2A.
HANDY!
50m For
A 0977A
24
With pass through 240V
socket so you don’t lose an
outlet! Great for keeping your
phone, tablet or MP3 player
charged. M 8892
$
$
A 2696
Dual USB Mains
Charging Adaptor
9
$ .95
Buy two
for $16
Power up
your cup
holder
Fitted with dual
USB &
accessory
sockets. 5V 1A
USB output.
A 2510
SAVE 39%
Protect Your AV System
& Cut Power Consumption!
18
$
Direct Injection Box
Converts high impedance (50KΩ) unbalanced
signals into low level (600Ω) balanced signal
for ultimate sound quality over long lead
lengths. No power required.
NEW!
54.95
$
36
$
P 8170
Power, telephone, aerial and satellite dish
surge protection. Allows a master appliance (ie TV) to
switch on/off slave appliances automatically, such as
receiver, DVD etc. Drastically cuts standby power usage.
About the
size of a
drink can!
C 5283
A 3087
SAVE $20
Remote Control 3xHDMI Switcher
Mini three input HDMI switcher which can be
discretely mounted behind your TV and
controlled by remote (external IR receiver
included).
Mini Cube Speakers:
Small on size, big on sound!
79
$
/pr
These mini cubes produce an amazing sound with a
subtle appearance. Swivel mount drivers.
Ideal for the kitchen, study or bedroom. 15W 8Ω.
Size: 130Hx65Wx75Dmm.
Ensures a clean hum free signal on
any stereo RCA line. Prevents
induced interference on long leads.
Simple in-line connection.
Fine Tune Your
Sound System
A useful tool for
high end home
theatre systems, PA
& car audio. This
SPL meter
measures up to
130dB (1.5dB
accuracy). Used
widely in the audio
industry for
ensuring sound
levels remain legal.
Includes 9V battery.
SAVE $20
79
$
Q 1264
M 8622
29
M 8070
Hum Loop/Noise Eliminator
SAVE 19%
10
$
$
15
$
C 9555
SAVE 44%
SAVE 12%
SAVE 22%
All metal
case
M 8623A
Lowest
Price Ever!
240V Power From Your Drink Holder!
Provides 240V power for charging laptops, small
tools, lamps, chargers and more! 150W rated
(450W surge). Ideal for camping. 12V input.
60mmØ. Modified sine wave.
VALUE!
7
$ .95
S 4904 2xAAA
VALUE!
8
$ .95
Long Life
Lithium Batteries
S 4906 2xAA
Big brand name performance for a much
lower price! These top quality Powerhouse®
lithium batteries offer excellent performance in
high power devices. Note: not rechargeable.
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
82 Silicon Chip
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy siliconchip.com.au
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
Resellers:
Build It Yourself Electronics
Audiophile quality
stereo sound!
Everything you need to
build a complete pre-amp
250
$
SAVE $50
K 5332
269
$
SAVE $30
Digital-Analog Converter Kit
(SC Sept-Nov ‘09) This professional quality kit will drastically
improve the sound output from your DVD player, allowing you to
obtain audiophile quality sound from a regular CD/DVD player, settop box, PVR or computer. Also reduces buzz, hum and signal noise,
ensuring your listening experience is top notch. Coaxial or optical
inputs. RCA output. 240V mains operation. Includes screened and
punch rack case, all components, transformer, PCBs and cabling.
K 5500
Silicon Chip Studio Series Pre-Amplifier
Audiophile grade, ultra low distortion design.
This brilliant high performance stereo pre-amp offers as good as Class-A
performance. Features five ultra low distortion inputs, dual headphone
amp, motorised remote volume control and low noise power supply. All
presented in a silk screened & machined chassis. Every bit as good as a
commercial unit, at a fraction of the cost!
K 5804
NEW KIT!
89
$
.95
SAVE $63
135
$
K 1143
GPS Boat Computer Kit
(SC Oct ‘10) Tells you exactly where you
are - never get lost at sea again. Also
shows speed and heading - plus it will
navigate you back home - or to that secret
fishing spot! It even displays fuel
consumption, along with a host of other
vital information.
SAVE 22%
35
$
Boost Dynamic Range
From Your Microphone
K 5514
(SC Sept ‘10) Mini Mic Pre-Amp Kit. Boosts
signal levels for better volume from unpowered
mics when used with a mixer or PC sound card.
• Suits balanced or unbalanced mics • Low noise
& distortion • Line level output. • 5-20VDC input.
LED Musicolour Kit
(SC October ‘12) Updated Musicolour for
LED technology! A continuously changing
kaleidoscope of colour changing in time to
the music. Controls up to 16 strings of
LEDs tuned to individual frequency bands.
Great for Christmas lighting or DJ’s and
parties.
NEW KIT!
14.50
$
K 6066
NEW KIT!
SAVE 21%
K 9552
39
$
Mini-Maximite Embedded Module
(SC November ‘11) The ‘little brother’ of
the Maximite kit. Utilising identical software
it is designed as an ultra compact intelligent controller. Some assembly required.
K 6043
49.95
$
Take the ‘kick’ out of power tools!
(SC July ‘12) This handy soft starter kit prevents
your electric saw, router or other large mainspowered hand tool from kicking when you squeeze
the trigger. Ensures a clean accurate cut every
time. Max load 10A.
Champion 7W Amp Kit
(SC Jan ‘13) A fully upgraded version of
the old ‘Champ Amp’. Delivers up to 7W of
peak power with low distortion. It also offers
muting and standby control, plus two mixed
inputs. All on a tiny board! 4-13.5V dc input.
NEW KIT!
SAVE 17%
65
$
59.95
$
K 4352
K 2553
Connects to your
PC for data review!
SAVE $20
129
$
Real-time Vehicle Datalogging Kit
(SC Dec ‘08) A do-it-all digital readout for
your cars dash. Monitors up to six signals &
displays up to 10 values in a scrolling/static
readout. Measure values such as fuel
injector duty cycle, air/fuel ratio,
cabin/engine temp, fuel tank level, battery
voltage or many car ECU signals.
Size: 134 x 86mm.
Digital Audio Signal Generator Kit
(SC March ‘10). With S/PDIF coaxial and optical
output - plus dual analog outputs! Incredibly low
distortion (typically <0.06%). Sine, square, triangle
and sawtooth wave generator. Plus waveform
mixing, pulse and sweep modes. Ideal for RMS and
music power testing of amps or speakers; testing
DACs & crossovers. Requires 4xAA or 9V plugpack.
K 6029
Get the most from your solar
panels with an MPPT charger.
(SC March ‘12) Delivers optimum charge
current to your connected batteries via an inbuilt 3 stage charging system (bulk,
absorption, float). Equalisation feature allows
you to ensure all cells in a bank are equally
charged. Suitable for charging 12V batteries
from nominal 12V panels up to 120W (can
be modified to suit 24V systems).
Note: this is MKII version of this kit published in
March 2012 issue of Silicon Chip.
B 0092
Sale Ends July 31st 2013
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
siliconchip.com.au
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2013. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Bunbury
ML Communications
Esperance
Esperance Comms.
Geraldton
ML Communications
VICTORIA
Bairnsdale
Bairnsdale Electrics
Beaconsfield Electronic Connections
Castlemaine
Top End Technology
Clayton
Rockby Electronics
Cranbourne
Bourne Electronics
Croydon Truscott's Electronic World
Geelong
Music Workshop
Healesville Amazon DVDs Healesville
Hoppers Crossing
Leading Edge
Leongatha
Gardner Electronics
Nunawading
Semtronics
Preston
Preston Electronics
Rosebud
AV2PC
San Remo Shorelec Elec. Wholesale
Somerville
AV2PC
Wodonga Exact Comp. & Home Ent.
TASMANIA
Hobart
Active Electronics
Launceston
Active Electronics
QUEENSLAND
Bowen Hills
Prime Electronics
Caloundra
LESC
Cloncurry
Access Electronics
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Delsound
Fortitude Valley
Design Data
Gold Coast
Prime Electronics
Hervey Bay
Ultra Music
Innisfail
Leading Edge Electronics
Longreach
Access Electronics
Rockhampton
Access Electronics
Toowoomba
Michael's Electronics
Townsville
SOLEX
NEW SOUTH WALES
Brookvale Brookvale Electrical Dist.
Cessnock Leading Edge Electronics
Cobar
Cobar Electronics
Deniliquin
Wired Entertainment
Gloucester
Autolec Gloucester
Grafton
Downes Electronics
Griffith
Griffith Systems Plus
Gunnedah
Protronics
Lithgow
Leading Edge Electronics
Nth Richmond Candle Power Tech.
Oak Flats
Oak Flats Electronics
Orange
Fordray Electronics
Penrith
Penrith Light and Sound
Port Macquarie
Fettel Comms.
Smithfield
Chantronics
Tamworth Bourke Street Electronics
Taree
Noeledge Systems Pty Ltd
Wagga Wagga
Wagga Car Radio
Waterloo Herkes Electrical Supplies
Wetherill Park Techtron Electronics
Windang
Mad Electronics
Wollongong Lightsounds Wollongong
Wyong
Coastal Caravan And RV
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Aztronics
Brighton
Force Electronics
Enfield
Aztronics
Findon
Force Electronics
Kadina
Idyll Hours Hobbies
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin Combined Comm. Solutions
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch - Riccarton Global PC
Christchurch - Shirley
Global PC
(08) 9721 9800
(08) 9071 3344
(08) 9965 7555
(03) 5152 3201
(03) 9768 9420
(03) 5472 1700
(03) 9562 8559
(03) 5996 2755
(03) 9723 3860
(03) 5221 5844
(03) 5962 2763
(03) 9931 0845
(03) 5662 3891
(03) 9873 3555
(03) 9484 0191
(03) 5986 6711
(03) 5678 5361
(03) 5978 0007
(02) 6056 5746
(03) 6231 0111
(03) 6334 7333
(07) 3252 7466
1300 716 840
(07) 4742 2590
(07) 3397 8155
(07) 3854 1588
(07) 5531 2599
(07) 4128 2037
(07) 4061 6214
(07) 4658 0500
(07) 4922 1058
(07) 4632 9990
(07) 4771 4211
(02) 9938 4299
(02) 4990 5971
(02) 6836 2962
(03) 5881 3555
(02) 6558 1600
(02) 6642 1911
(02) 6964 5933
(02) 6742 2110
(02) 6352 3333
(02) 4571 4699
(02) 4256 6120
(02) 6362 9901
(02) 4733 3333
(02) 6581 1341
(02) 9609 7218
(02) 6766 4664
(02) 6551 3622
(02) 6925 6111
(02) 9319 3133
(02) 9604 9710
(02) 4297 7373
(02) 4226 1177
(02) 4353 1100
(08) 8212 6212
(08) 8377 0512
(08) 8349 6340
(08) 8347 1188
(08) 8821 2662
(08) 8942 0644
+64 3 3434475
+64 3 3543333
Please Note: Resellers
have to2013 83
pay the cost of freight and
July
insurance and therefore the range of stocked products & prices
charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
USB Port
Voltage
Checker
Above: the unit can be used to check for voltage
fluctuations when an external USB-powered unit
is connected in-line with the voltage checker.
By NICHOLAS VINEN
If you carry valuable data around on a USB flash drive, it’s not
a good idea to plug it into other people’s computers willy-nilly.
They could have dead or faulty USB ports and an incorrectly
wired USB port can destroy a flash drive. Tragedy! Test it first
with this handy USB Port Voltage Checker.
U
SB DEVICES ARE convenient for
many reasons and one of these is
that you can walk up to just about any
computer anywhere and plug a USB
peripheral in. This is most useful for
storage devices like flash drives and
hard drives but can apply to just about
anything.
But unless it’s your computer and
you know the ports are all working
OK, there is the possibility that your
treasured USB device will be damaged
by a faulty port. This could happen for
a few reasons. One is that front-panel
USB ports are normally plugged into
a USB pin header interface on the
computer’s motherboard via a multicore cable and these can be plugged
in incorrectly, causing the port supply
voltage to be reversed. That could easily damage a connected device. In fact,
in this case, damage is likely.
There is also the possibility that the
computer’s power supply has a poorly
regulated 5V rail, giving a port voltage
that is too high, too low or fluctuating.
This also applies for powered hubs
and other devices where a failed
84 Silicon Chip
plugpack could easily lead to trouble.
Port voltages that are too high could
also damage a connected device while
voltages that are too low (permanently
or only when current is being drawn)
could lead to erratic device operation.
Well, that’s enough about what
could go wrong. This checker will
show you when a USB port’s voltage
is in the correct range so you can plug
in your flash drive or other device with
confidence. You can even leave the
unit connected and plug the device in
piggy-back style, so you can continue
to monitor the supply voltage during
operation, to ensure it doesn’t fluctuate too much.
The USB Port Checker is just 67 x
17 x 10mm – not much longer than
flash drive. It’s built on a small doublesided PCB measuring 44 x 17mm and
is encapsulated in clear heatshrink
tubing for protection. It uses a mixture
of through-hole and surface-mount
devices to keep it compact.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the full circuit. The USB
plug (CON1) and socket (CON2) – both
Type-A – are wired straight through so
the function of any USB device connected to CON2 is not affected. The D+
and D- signalling lines are run close
together down the middle of the PCB
so that the digital data signals are not
affected, as well.
Schottky diode D1 rectifies the USB
supply voltage so that if the polarity
is reversed, nothing happens – no
LEDs light, including the green one,
so you know something is wrong with
the port. This is a dual diode with a
common anode connection but we’re
using them both in parallel.
Why do this? Simply because we
need one elsewhere and it’s easier to
use two identical parts than two different ones.
If all is OK, LED1 (green) is lit
and this simply runs off the rectified
voltage of around 4.7V with a 680Ω
current-limiting resistor. Typical LED
current is around (4.7V - 2V) ÷ 680Ω
= 4mA.
IC2 is a 2.5V reference “diode”
which is actually an integrated circuit
siliconchip.com.au
D1 BAT54A
+4.7V
K1
A
VOLTS
LOW
1 F
K2
LED2
100k
3
2.5V
IC2
LM285D
–2.5
CON1
CON2
1
2
3
4
+V
D–
D+
GND
TYPE A
PLUG
1
2
3
4
+V
D–
D+
GND
TYPE A
SOCKET
IC1a
2
D2 BAT54A
18k
22k*
680
1
IC1: LM393D
K1
A
A
VOLTS
OK
LED1
K2
RB#
1 F
5
IC1b
6
# OPTIONAL – SEE TEXT
* FOR USB 3.0 VERSION – SEE TEXT
7
4
160k
120k*
USB PORT VOLTAGE CHECKER
A
K1
LEDS
IC1, IC2
BAT54A
SC
K
RA#
K
2013
VOLTS
HIGH
LED3
680
8
8
4
A
K
110k*
160k
680
A
8
4
1
K2
K
A
Fig.1: complete circuit of the USB Port Checker. It’s based on dual comparator IC1 and voltage reference IC2. If the
voltage is OK, green LED1 is lit while yellow LED2 and red LED3 indicate under-voltage and over-voltage respectively. If
the supply polarity is reversed or voltage is very low, none of the LEDs light up.
with two pins (well, it has eight but
six are unconnected). It is effectively a
shunt regulator and it runs off the 4.7V
supply via a 100kΩ resistor. That gives
it a current of about (4.7V - 2.5V) ÷
100kΩ = 22µA, with its recommended
minimum being 10µA.
One half of dual low-power comparator IC1a compares this 2.5V reference
to a divided-down version of the USB
supply voltage. This is achieved with
a resistive voltage divider comprising two 160kΩ resistors and an 18kΩ
resistor. IC1a’s inverting input (pin
2) is connected to the 2.5V reference
while the voltage at the non-inverting
input is at V+ x 0.527 where 0.527 is
the divider ratio, calculated as (160kΩ
+ 18kΩ) ÷ (160kΩ x 2 + 18kΩ).
For USB 2.0, the minimum supply
voltage is specified as 4.75V. If we
plug this into the formula above, we
get 4.75V x 0.527 = 2.5V which is the
same as the 2.5V reference it is being
compared against. So when the USB
supply drops below 4.75V, pin 3 of
IC1a goes below 2.5V and IC1a’s output
switches low, turning on LED2, again
with a current of about 4mA.
At the same time, IC1a also turns off
green LED1 by pulling its anode low
through half of dual-Schottky diode
D2. Thus, if the USB voltage is too
siliconchip.com.au
low, the yellow LED turns on and the
green LED turns off.
A 1µF capacitor across LED1 ensures
that it is switched off for a minimum
period (a few milliseconds) even if
there is a brief drop in the USB voltage.
That won’t be noticeable in isolation
but if the USB voltage is dropping
below 4.75V often enough, it means
that LED1 will either dim or go off
entirely.
Note that the PCB has provision
for an SMD resistor labelled RA to
add hysteresis for comparator IC1a.
However, we don’t think it’s necessary.
Over-voltage checking
The circuit to detect over-voltage is
similar. In this case, comparator IC1b
is used, as is the same 2.5V reference
voltage from IC2. This time, however,
the division ratio is different as IC1b’s
inverting input is connected to the
other end of the 18kΩ resistor. That
means the formula to calculate the
comparator threshold is V+ x 0.473,
which means the upper threshold is
a little above 5.25V.
Again we can check this by doing
the calculation: 5.25V x 0.473 = 2.48V.
So red LED3 will turn on if the supply voltage goes much over 5.25V. As
with IC1a, IC1b’s output going low
also turns off LED1, via the other half
of dual-diode D2.
Pads for a hysteresis resistor (RB)
are supplied but as before, we don’t
think it’s necessary. If RB is fitted, its
value will need to be chosen carefully
– see below.
USB 3.0 support
The 4.75-5.25V (ie, 5V±5%) USB
supply range is from the USB 2.0
specification. The newer USB 3.0
specification allows for more current
to be drawn by USB devices and as
such, also allows a wider variation in
supply voltage, ie, 4.45-5.25V. While
we don’t think it will happen very
often, this means that with a USB 3.0
port, the under-voltage indication (ie,
yellow LED lit) could occur while operating within specifications.
If you want to accommodate this,
you can do so by changing the divider resistor values, ie, use the values
shown in red on the circuit diagram.
The divider ratios then become 0.563
and 0.476, giving an upper threshold
of 2.5V ÷ 0.476 = 5.25V and a lower
threshold of 4.44V.
Accuracy
The 2.5V version of the LM285 voltage reference has a tolerance of ±1.5%
July 2013 85
3
2
D2
BAT54A
CON1
4
3
2
1
1
680
160k^
18k*
1 F
CON2
680
4
D1
IC2
LM285
IC1
LM393
1 F
24107131
1
CON2
A
G
USB Checker
3
2
A
Y
C 2013
R
100k
A
4
680
CON1
160k #
BAT54A
REAR VIEW
FRONT VIEW
* 22k USB 3.0 VERSION
# 110k USB 3.0 VERSION
^ 120k USB 3.0 VERSION
Fig.2: follow these PCB overlay diagrams to assemble the USB Port Checker. The SMD parts (ICs, diodes and
capacitors) all go on the top side along with the LEDs and connectors, while the resistors are all fitted on the
bottom side. The two empty pads on the bottom are for optional hysteresis setting resistors.
These photos show the front & rear of the completed PCB. Take care soldering in the SMDs and check that the
diodes & ICs are correctly orientated. You can remove solder bridges across the IC pins using solder wick.
which translates into an error of about
±0.08V referenced to the USB supply
voltage. Taking into account resistor tolerances and variations in the
forward voltage of D1, the maximum
error could be more than that. There
is also a roughly +5-10mV error due to
the input bias current of IC1a and IC2a
flowing through the divider network.
An error of ±0.1V would be fairly
significant compared to the ±0.25V
specification for the USB 2.0 supply
but this is a worst case figure and
without taking any special care, our
prototype’s thresholds measured very
close to what we calculated above. You
would be unlucky to build one of these
and find it had more than ±0.05V error.
Our (randomly chosen) LM285
measured 2.4946V which is an error of
just -0.22%. One easy way to check the
accuracy of your voltage reference IC is
to use a DMM to measure the voltage
across its lower-left and upper-right
pins while power is applied. If your
reading is much lower than ours, try
reducing the value of the 100kΩ resistor feeding it (eg, to 10kΩ) as a higher
operating current should (slightly)
increase the reference voltage.
Construction
Fig.2 shows the assembly details.
Begin the construction by fitting the
The through-hole components can
then go in. The resistors go on the
other side to the SMDs (check each
one with a DMM before fitting it). The
three LEDs go on the same side as the
SMDs, with their anodes to the edge
of the board.
Finish up by fitting the two USB
connectors – the socket (CON2) is optional but recommended. Ensure that
their mounting tabs are fully pushed
into the corresponding holes on the
PCB before soldering them and then
finally the signal pins.
You can test it by simply plugging
it into a known-good USB port; the
green LED should light while the
others should remain off. If you have
a variable voltage DC supply, you can
wire it up across the USB pins (using
a spare plug perhaps) and then vary it
between 4.5V and 5.5V to check that
the yellow and red LEDs come on at
the correct voltages.
Once you’re satisfied, slide some
clear heatshrink tubing over the unit
and shrink it down.
SMD components to the PCB, which
is coded 24107131. Install the two ICs
first. Figure out which is which and
then locate pin 1 which is normally
indicated by a divot or dot in the
corner of the plastic package. It could
also be indicated by a stripe along the
top of the IC (between pins 1 & 8) or
by a bevelled edge which will be on
the pin 1 side.
Put a little solder on one of the IC
pads then place the chip in the correct position, with pin 1 at upper-left.
While heating that solder, slide it into
position. You can re-heat the solder
and adjust it if necessary, then solder
the rest of the pins. Finally, add a little
solder to the first pin you soldered, to
refresh it.
If any pins are bridged, you can clear
them using solder wick although often
all that’s required is to slide the soldering iron tip between the pins and then
back again (assuming it’s fine enough).
Now fit the two SMD dual diodes.
Their orientation should be obvious as
long as they are not upside-down, ie,
solder them with their leads touching
the PCB. Then mount the two ceramic
capacitors, again using a similar technique but make sure you wait a bit between soldering one pad and the other
to ensure the first joint has solidified
before making the second.
Hysteresis
As noted above, you probably don’t
need to add resistors for comparator
hysteresis. The advantage of hysteresis
is that a brief excursion beyond one of
the thresholds is more likely to cause
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
2
1
1
1
1
1
3
86 Silicon Chip
Value
160kΩ
120kΩ
110kΩ
100kΩ
22kΩ
18kΩ
680Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown blue yellow brown
brown red yellow brown
brown brown yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
red red orange brown
brown grey orange brown
blue grey brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown blue black orange brown
brown red black orange brown
brown brown black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown grey black red brown
blue grey black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
USB Port Polarity: A Simple Approach
This project was inspired by reader
Bruce Pierson, who sent in details of a
simple design to check USB port supply polarity. As you can see, his design
consists of just a USB plug (surfacemounting type), a LED and a resistor,
all soldered to some Veroboard and
housed in the plastic case from a defunct
flash drive.
If all you want to do is check the supply polarity then this is not a bad idea
and it’s certainly much less complicated
than our approach. But obviously, it won’t
the LED to come on and stay on rather
than flicker so briefly that you may not
notice it. In practice, what happens as
the bus voltage crosses the threshold
is that one LED appears to fade in
while the other fades out, due to rapid
switching between them.
If you decide to add hysteresis,
choosing a value for RA is fairly simple. With RA = 10MΩ, once the supply
voltage drops below the lower voltage
of 4.75V, this threshold is changed to
about 4.77V by the fact that RA is effectively in parallel with the lower part
of the voltage divider. In other words,
it will give about 20mV of hysteresis.
A lower value resistor will give
proportionally more hysteresis. Much
more than 100mV of hysteresis is probably not desirable, giving a minimum
value of 2.2MΩ or so. Note that fitting
RA will also shift the lower threshold
needed to turn on LED2 as well, but
only very slightly.
Choosing a value for RB is more
tricky, because when IC1b’s output is
low, it is effectively in parallel with
IC2 and we must also consider that
some or all of IC1b’s input bias current
will flow through it. A sensible value
would be around 91kΩ. This forms a
220
USB TYPE A
PLUG
A
1
2
3
LED
K
4
Fig.3: Bruce Peirson’s
simple USB Tester.
K
A
give you much clue as to whether the
bus voltage is too low or too high unless
it is grossly so and you will have no way
of monitoring the bus voltage on that
port while another device is connected.
divider with the 100kΩ resistor supplying current to IC2 such that the reference voltage should be pulled down
to about 2.35V when IC1b’s output is
low, providing around 0.3V of hysteresis for the lower supply threshold.
We haven’t tried this though and
obviously, if you change the 100kΩ
resistor value you will need to scale
RB similarly.
The pads for RA and RB are designed
to accept metric 3216 or imperial
1206-sized SMD chip resistors.
Using it
Simply plug it into a USB port. If
it shows a green light, it’s OK. You
can then either unplug the checker
and connect your USB device or you
can simply leave it in and plug your
device into its socket. It should not
affect operation.
If no LEDs light, then either the
port is dead or its supply polarity is
reversed. Either way, we don’t recommend plugging anything else into that
port before you check it out. Similarly,
if you get a red LED, be careful – the
voltage may be just a touch high. Most
USB devices won’t be damaged but
you will need to measure it to be sure.
The completed PCB can be protected using
clear heatshrink tubing (so that the LEDs are
still visible). Make sure it’s working correctly
before shrinking this clear tubing into place.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB with platedthrough holes, code 24107131,
44 x 17mm
1 PCB-mount USB type A plug
(CON1) (element14 2067044
or 1696544)
1 PCB-mount USB type A socket
(CON2) (element14 1696534,
Jaycar PS0916, Altronics
P1300) – optional, see text
1 60mm length 16mm-diameter
clear heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 LM393D dual low-power
comparator (IC1) [SOIC8] (element14 4380563 or
2294229)
1 LM285D-2.5 micropower voltage reference (IC2) [SOIC-8]
(element14 8389195)
2 BAT54A dual common-anode
Schottky diodes (D1-D2) [SOT23] (element14 1081191)
1 green 3mm LED (LED1)
1 yellow 3mm LED (LED2)
1 red 3mm LED (LED3)
Capacitors
2 1µF 16V SMD ceramic
[3216/1206] (element14
1683655, Altronics R9950)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 160kΩ^
1 22kΩ*
1 120kΩ*
1 18kΩ^
1 110kΩ*
3 680Ω
1 100kΩ
* for USB 3.0-compatible version
^ for USB 2.0-compatible version
Note: a kit for this project is available from Jaycar, Cat. KC-5522.
If the yellow LED is lit, the low voltage is unlikely to damage anything but
your USB device may not get enough
power to operate properly. Note that
if the bus voltage is very low, it’s possible that the red LED could also light
(dimly).
Some chargers which use USB ports
can put out as much as 6V. This is most
common with high-current chargers in
the 2-3A range, such as those for tablet
computers. We believe that this is an
attempt to get the maximum current
through the USB cable. While most
devices will tolerate 6V, some could
overheat and in theory damage could
occur, so take care plugging anything
not designed for these chargers into
SC
them.
July 2013 87
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Discone Antennas? Icom DO still have ’em!
In the “Software Defined Radio”
article in the May 2013 issue, Jim
Rowe bemoaned that fact that a discone antenna, ideal for use with the
SDR, was “originally sold for about
$100 but Icom don’t appear to sell
them anymore.”
“Yes we do!” replied Icom Australia
almost as soon as the May issue appeared. In fact, they sent us a picture
of their current model discone (cat no
AH-8000) and a list of specs (opposite).
Jim Rowe could be forgiven because
a search of the Icom website failed to
find much detail or description. But
Icom assure as they are available.
This discone would appear to be just
about perfect for anyone interested in
experimenting with the TV Dongle and
software-defined radio as detailed in
that article.
So if you’re in the market for a
discone antenna, check out Icom
Australia’s website for an extensive
list of dealers.
Basic Specs
Receive frequencies:
Gain:
Connector:
Height:
Wind resistance:
100-3300MHz
3dBi (max)
Type N(50Ω nom)
936mm
50m/s
Contact:
Icom Australia Pty Ltd
Unit 1, 103 Garden Rd, Clayton, Vic 3168
Tel: (03) 9549 7500 Fax: (03) 9549 7505
Website: www.icom.net.au
Extra Low Voltage DC
power distribution
equipment
Quick Thinking Pty Ltd, a Melbourne business inventing new products, has released a
range of DC power distribution wall plates,
cables and adaptors, to allow ELV, particularly 12V DC, to be reticulated. The outlets
allow a variety of low power loads, up to 15A,
to be connected: modems, clocks, games,
TVs. Cables are available for trickle charging
12V batteries, connecting 1.5V wall clocks
and 9V smoke detectors, thus eliminating all
battery and plugpack powered loads from the
grid. Instead they
can be cabled to a Contact:
12V battery charged Quick Thinking Pty Ltd
by a solar panel. 3 Deavey Court, Altona, Vic 3018
USB outlets released Tel: 0499 773 400
soon. Licensees are Website: www.quickthinking.com.au
being sought.
DORJI DRF4463D20 Medium Power ISM
RF Transceiver from Wiltronics
This new data radio modem combines the advantages of the
Dorji DRF4432D20 and DRF1212D10 modules. It features GFSK
modulation, multi-channel operation, high bandwidth efficiency and
anti-blocking performance. Operating in the 433MHz ISM frequency
band with up to 40Kbps RF data rate, the module can be configured
to seven baud rates and seven RF power outputs in 3dBm increments
up to 20dBm.
The module can be configured to
work in four different modes employing a range of power saving mechanisms, making the DRF4463D20
ideal for battery powered operation, with a standby current of less
than 2.5µA being achievable.
Contact:
Wiltronics
PO Box 4043, Alfredton Vic 3350
Tel: (03) 5334 2513
Website: www.wiltronics.com.au
See the Latest in Electronics Products & Technology at ElectroneX!
ElectroneX – The Electronics Design & Assembly Expo returns
to Melbourne on 11-12 September this year at Melbourne Park
Function Centre. This specialised event is the major focal point
for the electronics industry in Australia and is designed to help
professionals across a vast array of industry sectors to stay in
touch with the latest electronics technology developments for
systems integration and production electronics.
Design, electronic & electrical engineers, OEM, scientific, IT
and communications professionals and service technicians are
invited to attend the event where they will find the latest technology driving future product & system developments.
88 Silicon Chip
ElectroneX comprises a major trade show
with over 80 companies showcasing and demonstrating the
latest new product releases for industry, scientific and commercial
applications. The SMCBA – Electronics Design & Manufacture
Conference is being held in conjunction with the exhibition.
This year’s conference will feature several highly acclaimed
international presenters and deliver a wealth of information on
electronics design and manufacture but will also feature new
streams on Embedded Systems and New Product Development.
For further information and free trade registration for the expo
visit www.electronex.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Found an RF chip that you wish to
use in a proof of concept system?
Maximite-compatible DTX series
embedded module
Manufacturer
evaluation boards
are great for evaluating the performance of individual devices but
a lack of shielding can mean that
they do not perform as expected
when used to create
prototype systems.
Evaluation boards also often require additional support
such as multiple power supplies and this adds to the difficulty of using them.
Packaging the RF chip in a shielded housing with power
supply, support circuitry and connectors permits the design
engineer to easily construct a prototype to check system
operation.
By using a number of pre-designed circuit elements and
housings combined with RF design capability, Syndetic can
quickly design and economically manufacture a module
containing the required RF chip.
The module is supplied fully characterised with test
results.This allows the design engineer to calibrate
simulated results
against measured Contact:
results in order to Syndetic Pty Ltd
get a better idea of 4/20 Cansdale St, Yeronga Qld 4104
eventual system Tel: (07) 3255 8900 Fax: (07) 3255 8901
Website: www.syndetic.com.au
performance.
The concept of using modules has a great support
worldwide but the new
DTX2-4105C module takes
embedded development to a
whole new level – chip-style
modules. It has been explicitly designed for inclusion
into other products instead
of early educational activities
only. Its standard PLCC68
package allows the use of mass available IC sockets for
easier mounting on the spot, or it can also be assembled
directly onto the user’s printed circuit board.
This new module brings a popular modern hobby computer into a small chip, which can be directly used in
the user’s custom equipment. The compatibility with the
Maximite computer is a foundation that opens the door
towards simple development, but this time in the world
of embedded devices.
Just imagine a small electronic circuit, which you could
connect to via a standard USB cable and a terminal, write
your software, debug it, use file system, and many more functions, currently available with the MMBasic – all that on the
release revision of your board! This module has been made
to save time in the
writing of low-level Contact:
support drivers and Dimitech
all those layers of 435-437 Nepean Hwy, Frankston Vic 3199
software under the Tel: (03) 9016 8919 Fax: (03) 9932 2709
actual application. email: www.dimitech.com
Jaycar’s Mozzie Zapper is based on real science!
You might think that mosqitoes disappear during winter
– but don’t you believe it. They are around all year and
are more than capable of spreading several nasty diseases
despite the cold weather. So it pays to get rid of them any
time of the year – and when summer finally returns, you
will really enjoy it!
We’ve all seen those ultrasonic mozzie zappers that
are supposed to attract the little blighters and despatch
them to mozzie heaven . . . but it’s been proven that they
don’t work! Neither do those that rely purely on UV light.
On the other hand, this new Photocatalyst Insect Trap
from Jaycar is based on the proven science that mozzies
are attracted to humans maninly by the carbon dioxide
(CO2) that we exhale. So it produces CO2 to make them
think they are getting a feed!
This trap lures the little pests using a tripartite system
– heat and UV-A light are produced by a BL bulbm while
CO2 is produced when near-ultraviolet rays are radiated
into Titanium Dioxide (Ti02).
Mosquitoes enter the trap through the capture windows
on the upper portion and are drawn down by suction
from the fan into the capture net below. Once in the net,
they cannot escape. It’s safe, effective, quiet and uses
little energy.
No claims are made regarding other annoying insects
siliconchip.com.au
but we would be surprised
to find that it didn’t
work well with
them too – the
ones that are attracted purely by
UV light (they think
it’s a BIG flower!).
It’s designed to
be used indoors
or under shelter
outdoors and operates from 12V
DC <at> 1A so it’s also
ideal for campers and
caravanners via a suitable 12V battery and lead
(not included). A 230-12V 1A plugpack is included for
home use.
It’s not tiny, measuring about 240mm high and about
the same diameter. A ring is provided for chain hanging.
It’s priced at
$49.95 (Cat YS- Contact:
5 5 1 6 ) a n d i s Jaycar Electronics (all stores)
available from all PO Box 107, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Jaycar outlets. SC Order Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 8832 3188
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
July 2013 89
Vintage Radio
By Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Restoring an AWA B15
AM broadcast receiver
Housed in a unique plastic case with a
concave front panel, the AWA B15 Radiola
is a 5-valve set that’s easy to troubleshoot
and restore. This particular set had several
unusual faults though.
T
HE AWA B15 is a typical 5-valve
mantel receiver from the 1960s.
Designed towards the end of the valve
era, it’s a conventional superhet design
with a converter stage, an IF (intermediate frequency) amplifier, a detector
with AGC (automatic gain control),
two stages of audio amplification and
a power supply using a valve rectifier.
For many manufacturers of that era,
marketing such receivers often came
down to cabinet styling. A couple of
unusual cabinet styles that are now
highly sought after were used with
the Healing “scales” and the Astor
“football” receivers and these now
fetch quite high prices on ebay and
other auction sites. Some sets even
came in different colours like green or
blue or with different coloured flecks
90 Silicon Chip
in the finish, the cost of such radios
now varying according to rarity.
The AWA B15 is not quite in this
league. It has a rather unique concave
front panel which looks interesting but
it doesn’t generate as much excitement
as the Healing “scales” and the Astor
“football” receivers. That’s not to say
that the B15 and many other receivers of the era don’t look good. They
do but they don’t fall into the “must
have” category.
That said, I have two such sets in
my collection and I described the
restoration of one of these sets back
in the June 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Another restoration
Just recently, I was asked to restore
another one of these sets. Its owner
claimed that it only required a new
dial cord (the original had broken)
and a new dial lamp. Apart from that,
he thought that the set was in working order.
Despite this, I gave him an estimate
as to what I thought it would cost to
completely overhaul the receiver. He
was rather taken aback at the amount
but I explained to him that, based on
my experience, it wouldn’t end with
the dial cord and lamp. Instead, lots
of other components (such as capacitors) would also have to be replaced,
especially as this particular set had
been sitting in a shed for many years
exposed to dust, moisture, mice, moths
and various insects.
My policy is that any receiver I work
on must be returned to its owner in
good condition. That means it must
be reliable, it must work correctly and
the cabinet must be clean and intact.
And of course, it must be safe to use.
Some restorers only give a “footpath
warranty”, whereby the set is only
guaranteed to operate until such time
as it leaves the property. On the other
hand, I’m prepared to give several
months’ warranty on the work I do
and the parts I replace. However, as
I always explain to the customer, I
cannot give a warranty on any other
parts in the set as they may be up to
90 years old.
I’ve yet to come across anyone who
doesn’t accept this as being reasonable. And because I’m always careful
to check and test the set thoroughly,
I rarely have a return due to a fault.
In this case, the owner accepted the
quote and left the set with me. Fortunately, the B15 is a set that’s easy to
work on – the chassis is easy to remove
and all parts under the chassis are easy
to access.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the AWA B15. It uses a fairly standard
5-valve line-up, a ferrite rod antenna
and 455kHz IF stages.
As shown, an external antenna
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is a standard 5-valve superhet design using a converter (V1), an IF amplifier (V2), a detector & first
audio stage (V3), an audio output stage V4 and a full-wave rectifier (V5).
and earth (if used) are connected to
a “link” winding on the ferrite rod
and this is inductively coupled to the
main tuned winding on the ferrite rod.
These windings are on a former that
can be slid along the rod to achieve
best performance at the low-frequency
end of the tuning range. Note too that
the ferrite rod is mounted high on the
chassis, so care needs to be taken when
turning the set upside down for servicing to ensure the rod isn’t damaged.
The converter valve (V1) is a 6BE6
pentagrid and the oscillator coil (L1)
is wired into the cathode circuit, with
the cathode being connected to a tap
part way up the coil. The resulting
455kHz signal from this converter
stage appears on the anode and is
fed via 455kHz IF transformer TR2
to the grid of V2 (a 6BA6) where it
is amplified and fed to the second IF
transformer (TR3).
Following TR3, the signal goes to a
detector diode in V3 (a 6AV6) and the
resulting audio signal filtered by C19 is
fed to volume control RV1 via resistor
R8. The audio signal at RV1’s wiper is
then fed to the grid of the 6AV6 where
it is amplified and then fed via an RC
network (C23 & R13) to the grid of V4, a
6AQ5 audio output stage. This in turn
drives the loudspeaker via speaker
transformer TR4.
siliconchip.com.au
The AWA B15’s chassis is easily removed from the cabinet and all parts are
readily accessible. This photo shows the unit with it new dial cord in place.
Only simple AGC is applied in this
set, with the DC voltage developed
across RV1 and R7 applied via R6
and R1 to the converter and IF amplifier stages (V1 and V2). The IF stage
is neutralised by the combination of
C15, C12 and (to a lesser extent) C16.
The audio output stage includes
negative feedback. This feedback signal is derived from transformer TR4’s
secondary and applied to the top of
R7 via C27, R14 and R10. Bias for
V4 is derived from the voltage across
R15, the back-bias arrangement in the
power supply.
Finally, the power supply uses a
conventional mains transformer and
a 6X4 full-wave rectifier to derive the
HT rail. This is filtered by C28, R16
and C29. A separate 6.3V secondary
July 2013 91
Despite its age, the AWA B15’s chassis was still in good condition, although
some corrosion was evident. The antenna coil former hid a break in the
ferrite rod which made the set rather insensitive.
All the parts under the chassis are easy to access and the work here mainly
involved replacing six of the paper capacitors that were in critical locations.
The original 2-core mains cable shown here was also replaced with a 3-core
cable so that the chassis could be earthed.
winding on the transformer is used
to power the valve heaters and the
dial lamps.
Mechanical restoration
I didn’t spend a lot of time on the
mechanical restoration, as the owner
is quite capable of doing some of this
and wanted to keep the cost down. As
a result, I gave the chassis a quick clean
with a kerosene soaked rag, which got
the worst of the muck off and left a film
of oil on both the chassis itself and the
transformer metalwork.
That done, I turned my attention
to the broken dial cord. Most people
don’t like re-stringing dial mechanisms and often find it difficult to work
out the layout. Of course, many service
sheets show how the dial-cord is run
but AWA didn’t do that with this set.
92 Silicon Chip
Fortunately, I didn’t have to waste
time figuring it out for myself. Instead, it was just a matter of quickly
checking the arrangement in my own
B15 set. The dial cord installation
subsequently went without a hitch,
after which I oiled all the pulleys
and the bearings on the tuning gang.
I also lightly smeared the dial pointer
slide with grease so that it operated
smoothly.
The blown dial globe was then
replaced and the valve socket pins
sprayed with Inox (a contact cleaner/
lubricant) to eliminate any contact
resistance that may have developed
during the set’s many years of storage
in less than ideal conditions.
Initial tests
My next step was to test the power
transformer using a high-voltage insulation tester. The tester I use is a
SILICON CHIP design and has a 1000V
output. The transformer is tested by
measuring the resistance between
each side of the transformer primary
and chassis.
In this set, the leakage resistance
was initially around 50MΩ which is a
little on the low side. This is basically
the leakage resistance from the mains
leads to the transformer frame, heater
winding and the secondary winding.
Because the set had been stored in
a shed for some time, it was probable
that the transformer has absorbed
moisture over the years. Accordingly, I
replaced the set’s original 2-core power
lead with a 3-core lead so that the chassis could be earthed, then removed all
the valves and applied power. I let it
run for several hours, then re-checked
the transformer’s leakage resistance.
It had climbed to around 100MΩ
which is quite a satisfactory figure
and indicated that the transformer had
“dried out”.
At this stage, the transformer was
only slightly warm to touch. The AC
voltages between pins 5 & 6 and pins
6 & 7 of the transformer (ie, on either
side of the centre-tapped HT winding)
were then checked. They were identical, which is how they should be.
The voltage across the 6.3V winding
(between pins 1 and 8) was slightly
higher than 6.3V but that’s only to be
expected when it’s unloaded (ie, with
the valves removed). In fact, in many
sets, it can be as high as 7V unloaded.
Having verified that the transformer
was OK, my next step was to test and
replace any paper capacitors in critical
positions in the receiver (ie, in locations where low leakage is critical).
I ended up replacing C3, C12, C20,
C22, C23 & C26. The remaining paper
capacitors were in low-impedance
circuits where leakage is not critical
and were left in circuit.
For example, C16 (in parallel with a
220Ω resistor in V2’s cathode circuit)
could have an electrical leakage as
low as around 2kΩ before upsetting
the operation of the IF amplifier stage.
Even quite leaky capacitors will generally have a leakage resistance of more
than 1MΩ, so it’s not a problem in this
situation.
In this set and in others of the same
era, low-voltage paper capacitors had
a minimum voltage rating of 200V.
However, C3, C12 & C20 were all resiliconchip.com.au
placed with 50V ceramic capacitors,
since the voltage across each of these
capacitors is unlikely to exceed 20V.
By the way, it’s not always necessary
to substitute a capacitor with the exact
same value, provided it isn’t too different. For example, if the original circuit
used (say) a 10nF (0.01µF) capacitor as
an audio coupler, substituting a value
as high as 22nF or as low as 6.8nF
would generally have no apparent
difference on the performance.
Capacitor C26 isn’t critical as far
as leakage is concerned but it was
replaced because many capacitors in
this position go short circuit. If it’s
connected from the plate of the output
valve to the screen grid, then it’s not
a critical failure (although the set will
stop working). However, when it’s connected between the plate and earth as
it is here, the speaker transformer can
burn out if the capacitor goes short
circuit.
In this circuit, it has 230V DC across
it to which is added the audio voltage
which, if the valve is never cut off, can
rise to a peak of around double the DC
voltage – 460V in this case. And it can
rise considerably higher than this if the
valve is suddenly driven into cut-off
by the input signal at its grid. For this
reason, this capacitor is usually rated
at 600V DC.
Modification
A small modification can be made
to B15 sets to make them slightly more
sensitive and more stable. While the
circuitry from the detector onwards is
supposedly only involved in amplifying the audio signal, this is not strictly
true as it also amplifies the 455kHz IF.
There isn’t a great deal of IF amplification but it is enough for a significant
amount of the IF signal to appear at the
plate of the audio output valve.
This signal is radiated and feeds
back into the front end of the set
where it can cause problems. However,
adding a 47pF capacitor between the
junction of R6 & R8 and the chassis and
another from pin 1 (or 7) of the 6AQ5
output valve to the chassis, reduces
this unwanted IF signal at V4’s plate by
20-30dB. In fact, this simple modification will benefit most domestic valve
AM radio receivers.
Other parts
A quick check with a digital multimeter (DMM) showed that all the
resistors were within tolerance, so no
replacements were required. In addition, the electrolytic capacitors looked
to be in good condition but running
the set would prove this one way or
the other.
Initially, I simply used my DMM
(set to a high ohms range) to check
the resistance between the positive
terminal of the first electrolytic and
the chassis. This showed that there
was an initial low-value resistance
to earth but this quickly climbed to
quite a high value. That meant that the
electrolytic capacitors had had some
capacitance and that there were no
obvious shorts to earth.
Those checks completed, I plugged
the rectifier valve in but left the other
valves out for the time being. I then applied power to the set while monitoring the voltage across the electrolytic
capacitors and checking to ensure
that nothing untoward was happening
inside the rectifier.
No faults showed up in the rectifier
and as soon as the HT voltage started
to rise, I switched the set off. I then
waited for the capacitors to discharge
and the powered the set up again for
a short time, this time letting the HT
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July 2013 93
Removing the back of the cabinet gives good access to the valves and to other
parts on the top of the chassis. The original loudspeaker still worked but
foreign matter had found its way into the voice coil assembly and it had to
be replaced to improve the sound quality.
voltage rise a little further. After repeating this procedure several times,
I found that the electrolytics now
discharged quite slowly, which meant
they had quite good capacitance and
did not have excessive leakage.
This procedure effectively reforms
the electrolytic capacitors, so that
they function normally after being left
unused for many years. In this case,
the capacitors proved to be OK but
if they had discharged quite quickly
after switch-off, they would have had
to have been replaced.
This test also proved that there were
no shorts on the HT line due to component breakdown under high voltage.
The speaker and speaker transformer were tested next, although it’s
usually best to test these parts earlier in
the restoration process. The test itself
is quite simple – select a low-ohms
range on a moving coil multimeter and
connect it across the primary of the
speaker transformer. When that was
done, there was a healthy click from
the loudspeaker which indicated that
both it and the transformer were OK.
Mains lead
As mentioned earlier, the original
2-core mains lead was replaced with a
3-core mains cable so that the chassis
could be earthed. This new cable was
securely clamped into position using
the existing through-hole cord clamp
grommet.
Tracking the gremlins
At this stage, the other four valves
94 Silicon Chip
were inserted into their sockets, and
the set switched on. I then connected
the negative lead of my multimeter to
the chassis via a clip lead and proceeded to check all the relevant voltages in
the set to see how they corresponded
to the published figures.
As I did so, the set started operating and stations could be heard at low
volume as I tuned across the dial. All
voltages were reasonably close to the
published figure except for the bias
on the 6AQ5 – it was only about -5V
instead of -8V, indicating that one or
more valves weren’t drawing as much
current as they should.
At this point, the set suddenly
stopped but it could be made to sometimes come on briefly if the chassis was
jarred or by moving the 6AQ5 in its
socket. A quick check of the voltages
around the set soon revealed that the
6AQ5’s grid was at +146V, the same
as the screen.
This indicated that the grid and
screen had shorted together and so
the valve was replaced. And that fixed
the problem; the bias voltage was now
correct and the audio output had significantly improved. The internal intermittent short had obviously caused
the faulty valve to draw more current
than normal and it had lost most of its
cathode emission.
After running the set for half an
hour or so, I turned it off and carefully
felt all the capacitors that I hadn’t
replaced, to see if they were hot.
Any undue temperature increase can
indicate excessive electrical leakage,
which means that the capacitor would
have to be replaced. In this case, the
only ones at all warm were the electrolytic capacitors and this was because
they physically are located close to the
6AQ5 and 6X4 valves. In short, their
locations are not the best, which is a
bit of a design failure in this set.
By now, the set was now operating
reasonably well, although its sensitivity was lower than I expected and there
was some buzz in the sound at high
volume. To get to the bottom of this,
I first aligned the two IF transformers
(TR2 & TR3) and but this gave only a
slight boost to the performance.
Next, I turned my attention to the
oscillator circuit. I adjusted the dial
pointer on the scale and found that
the oscillator circuit was almost perfect across the band. It required only
a small amount of tweaking to tune it
correctly.
Finally, I took a look at the antenna
circuit and found that this tuned to an
apparent peak at the low-frequency
end of the dial as I slid the coil along
the ferrite. However, the trimmer
capacitor adjustment at the highfrequency end of the dial didn’t end
up where I would expect it to be for
best performance.
Broken ferrite rod
Although all the tuning adjustments
appeared to be working as they should,
the set’s performance was still lacking.
Physically, all looked well with the
loop-stick antenna but it was as if the
coil didn’t have enough inductance.
Eventually, I decided to slip the ferrite
rod out of the coil former for a closer
look. When I did this, half the rod
stayed inside the coil – it had broken
in two inside the coil former at some
stage in the past!
Broken ferrite rods can be repaired
by gluing the pieces together. To do
this, I laid the two parts on a piece of
Glad Wrap on the workbench, then put
some super glue on the ends, pushed
them together and wrapped the Glad
Wrap partly over the rod. I then placed
a ruler along the side where I had
wrapped the Glad Wrap to ensure that
the rod was straight in all directions.
Once the joint was dry, I added
some more glue to make the join more
permanent. This was then allowed to
dry, after which the excess glue was
scraped off and the rod reinserted
into the coil former. The antenna coil
was then adjusted at the low-frequency
siliconchip.com.au
end of the dial for best reception,
while the antenna trimmer was adjusted for best performance at the
high-frequency end.
As expected, the AWA B15 was now
performing like it should, with quite
good sensitivity – hardly surprising
since the ferrite rod antenna was now
picking up much more signal. And
with an outside antenna and earth connected, the set now really performs.
So if a set lacks sensitivity for no
apparent reason and it has a ferrite
rod antenna, always check that the rod
hasn’t broken inside the coil former.
Fixing the noise
Both the volume and tone controls
were noisy so each was given a good
spray of Inox to get rid of any muck
that was adhering to the tracks. That
fixed that problem but I wasn’t happy
with the quality of the sound from the
speaker.
By gently pressing on the speaker
cone, I could feel voice coil grating
against dust and other debris. As a
result, I removed the speaker and
peeled back the felt cover over the
centre of the speaker so that I could
take a look inside.
There was quite a bit of dust and
some rather sharp grains of abrasive
material in there. This was removed
but foreign material was still present in
other sections of the voice coil/magnet
assembly. In the end, there was nothing for it but to replace the speaker.
As shown in the photos, the speaker
is a special type with large mounting
holes that go over plastic spigots on
the rear of the front panel. However,
as luck would have it, I just happened
to have a spare on hand. It had been
salvaged from an identical receiver
with a burnt-out power transformer
some years ago and I had saved the
ferrite-rod antenna as well.
The new speaker worked perfectly
and I could have also substituted the
ferrite rod if the original had been
beyond repair.
The lesson here is that old sets not
worth restoring can often be a very
useful source of bits and pieces when
restoring another receiver. However,
if you dismantle an old set, always
be sure to clearly mark the parts
and, if necessary, mark how they
are connected. For example, IF
transformers have primary and
secondary windings and the pin
connections can vary from one
type to another.
With the restoration now completed, the set was run for several
hours to make sure there were no other
gremlins lurking in the works. This
is always a good idea because many
intermittent faults are heat-sensitive
and will only show up after a period
of prolonged operation. In this case,
the AWA B15 passed with flying colours and was eventually returned to
its owner.
Summary
Restoring this set was quite straightforward, even though there were some
unusual faults, ie, the short in the
The faulty loudspeaker was
replaced with an identical unit
salvaged from another B15
chassis that was unrepairable.
6AQ5 valve, the broken antenna rod
and the damaged speaker. It’s an easy
set to work on, with good access to
all parts, and the restored set works
quite well.
There was also an element of luck
in the restoration in that I had a spare
loudspeaker from a junked identical
set. Keeping the critical parts from
junked sets sure pays off when it comes
SC
to restoring old radio receivers.
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July 2013 95
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
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Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11) 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13) Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (JuL13)
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PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
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dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
ATMega48
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G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER Short form kit
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DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL Short form kit
(Aug11/Nov11)
$44.50
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CLASSiC DAC Semi kit
(Feb-May13)
$45.00
Includes three hard-to-get SMD ICs: CS8416-CZZ, CS4398-CZZ and PLL1708DBQ plus
an accurate 27MHz crystal and ten 3mm blue LEDs with diffused lenses
“LUMP IN COAX” MINI MIXER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
$20.00
Includes: 2 x OPA4348AID, 1 x BQ2057CSN, 2 x DMP2215L, 1 x BAT54S, 1 x 0.22Ω shunt
LF-HF UP-CONVERTER SMD parts kit:
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ISL9V5036P3 IGBT
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$10.00
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P&P – $10 Per order#
ERA-2SM+ Wideband MMC and ADCH-80+ Wideband Choke
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IPP230N06L3 N-Channel logic level Mosfets
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ZXCT1009 Current Shunt Monitor IC
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TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD896 or 898) (Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 3-WAY
(Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 2-WAY
(Jan12)
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC to play!)
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07/13
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
NOTE: These listings are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
JAN 1993
06112921
$25.00
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
08110111
$30.00
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
01111111
$30.00
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODUL
NOV 2011
01111112
$25.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981
$10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
01111113
$10.00
MINIMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
APR 2001
06104011
$25.00
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
04111111
$20.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021
$10.00
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
07111111
$10.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031
$10.00
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031
$25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111
$30.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041
$10.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
0121211P2/3 $20 per set
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041
$25.00
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121
$10.00
LITTLE JIM AM TRANSMITTER
JAN 2006
06101062
$25.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121
$30.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061
$25.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
APRIL 2006
01104061
$25.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2 $30 per set
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061
$25.00
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061
$25.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (A) (IMPROVED)
MAR 2007
04103073
$30.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121
$40.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
MAR 2007
04103072
$20.00
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122
$40.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071
$25.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123
$75.00
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071
$20.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121
$10.00
CDI MODULE SMALL PETROL MOTORS
MAY 2008
05105081
$15.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112
$20.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081
$10.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121
$10.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04104121
$20.00
APR 2012
04104122
$20.00
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER
(Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec 2010 [18112101])
$20.00
JAN 2009
10101091
$45.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091
$35.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012
10105122
$35.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
APR 2009
10104091
$10.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
21105121
$30.00
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
MAY 2009
04205091
$10.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
21105122/3 $20 per set
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
MAY 2012
MAY 2009
04105091
$35.00
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01106121
$20.00
JUNE 2009
07106091
$25.00
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
24105121
$30.00
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
AUG 2009
15008091
$10.00
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
08109121
$10.00
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
AUG 2009
15008092
$45.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
04106121
$20.00
SEPT 2009
04208091
$10.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
04106122
$20.00
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
JAN 2010
01101101
$25.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
05106121
$20.00
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
JUN 2010
04106101
$25.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
05106122
$10.00
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
AUG 2010
04108101
$55.00
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
10107121
$10.00
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
SEP 2010
04109101
$25.00
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
03107121
$20.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
SEP 2010
01209101
$25.00
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
10108121
$10.00
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210101
$10.00
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
04108121
$20.00
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210102
$10.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
24109121
$30.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
OCT 2010
16110102
$45.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
24109122
$30.00
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
NOV 2010
01111101
$25.00
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
25108121
$20.00
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
DEC 2010
04112101
$25.00
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
07109121
$20.00
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
DEC 2010
18112101
$10.00
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
09109121
$10.00
433MHZ SNIFFER
JAN 2011
06101111
$10.00
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
03110121
$5.00
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
JAN 2011
99101111
$30.00
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
09110121
$10.00
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
JAN 2011
01101111
$30.00
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
16110121
$25.00
LED DAZZLER
FEB 2011
16102111
$25.00
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
16110121
$20 per set
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
FEB 2011
14102111
$15.00
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
01108121
$30.00
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
FEB 2011
06102111
$5.00
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
01108122
$10.00
THE MAXIMITE
MAR 2011
06103111
$25.00
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
05110121
$10.00
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
MAR 2011
18103111
$15.00
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
04109121
$10.00
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MAR 2011
04103111
$25.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)DEC 2012
10105122
$35.00
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
MAR 2011
01209101
$25.00
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB)
JAN 2013
01109121/2 $10.00
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
APRIL 2011
01104111
$25.00
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
19111121
$10.00
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
APRIL 2011
04104111
$10.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
04111121
$35.00
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
APRIL 2011
13104111
$10.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
04111122
$15.00
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
MAY 2011
01105111
$30.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
04111123
$45.00
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
MAY 2011
11105111
$25.00
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
21102131
$20.00
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
MAY 2011
12105111
$10.00
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
12110121
$10.00
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
JUNE 2011
11106111
$25.00
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
04103131
$10.00
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
JUNE 2011
07106111
$25.00
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
16102131
$5.00
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
JUNE 2011
19106111
$25.00
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
01102131
$40.00
USB BREAKOUT BOX
JUNE 2011
04106111
$10.00
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
01102132/3 $30.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
JULY 2011
01107111
$25.00
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
04104131
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
JULY 2011
04107111
$25.00
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
08103131
$5.00
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
JULY 2011
20107111-4 $80 per set
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013
11104131
$15.00
VOX
JULY 2011
01207111
$25.00
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013
12104131
$10.00
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
AUG 2011
01108111
$25.00
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013
07106131
$10.00
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
AUG 2011
04108111
$15.00
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013
15106131
$15.00
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
SEP 2011
04109111
$25.00
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013
15106132
$7.50
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
SEP 2011
01209111
$5.00
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
01106131
$15.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
SEP 2011
01109111
$25.00
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
19106131
$15.00
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
SEP 2011
01309111
$30.00
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
09107132/3 $20.00/set
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
04103073
$30.00
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
15106133
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
16110111
$30.00
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107131
$5.00
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
23110111
$30.00
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 20 13
15107132
$10.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
$15.00
$15.00
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
6-Digit GPS Clock has
readout flicker
I am currently building Jim Rowe’s
6-Digit GPS Clock from the May-June
2009 issues for my senior project
at my college. I have it completely
breadboarded and fully functional but
with a constant visible flicker from the
7-segment displays.
I would like to know if that flicker
was present during the initial design
and if there are any possible solutions
to get rid of it. (M. A., New Brunswick,
Canada).
• The display flicker may be due to
the particular 7-segment displays used
in your breadboard prototype. The
frequency at which the displays are
multiplexed is fixed by the firmware
inside the PIC microcontroller, at a rate
which produced very little flicker with
the displays we used. If the displays
you are using have a different optical
efficiency, this could make the flicker
more visible.
All we can suggest is that you
experiment with the values of the
display segment current-setting resistors connected between the collectors
of transistors Q8-Q14 and the display
segment lines. These currently have a
value of 56Ω but you could try replacing them with lower values (say 47Ω)
to see if the visible flicker is reduced.
You should also check that the supply voltage is correct, as excessive
ripple could cause flicker.
Running a lathe with
a 180V DC motor
I am currently building a small lathe
for hobby use and have managed to
find a 180V DC motor with a 1.5HP
rating from a treadmill which would
be ideal as a drive motor. The original
controller is not working and appears
to use a microcontroller in the console
and a PWM driver in the motor compartment; even if it were working it
would be too big to mount on the lathe.
The controller had an optical sensor
for speed sensing and although nice
to have, it is not really necessary. I
have hunted around on the internet
and found most of these PWM drivers need a microcontroller board to
control them or they cost big dollars. I
was wondering if some modification to
the High-Current Speed Controller for
12-24V DC systems would be possible?
The original controller used an
IRFP460A N-channel enhancement
mode Mosfet as a switching transistor
and a F30V60DN fast recovery diode
to clamp the transient spike voltages.
I already have the 12-24V DC Controller (SILICON CHIP, June 2011) that
I constructed for another project. The
driver section from the old controller
still works (the microcontroller is dead
so the PWM board will not activate)
and I have managed to set it up so that
the 12-24V DC controller will switch
the IRFP460A transistor on and off as
required but I have only tested it using
12V DC which works fine.
The big question is how to get it to
work with two different power supplies, one at 20V DC and the other at
230V DC. As I see it, the grounds of
these two supplies need to be connected together so that Q3 (BC327)
can conduct to switch the drive Mosfet
as the 12-24V circuit is isolated by a
transformer from the 230V DC circuit.
Any thoughts on this would be
appreciated. I read somewhere that
rectifying 230VAC gives something
Sick Battery Makes For A Sick Ignition System
I am writing with regard to the
new High-Energy Ignition System
that I built, now fitted with a nice
new Commodore coil which works
really well. I should say worked
really well until the battery on the
wood chipper it is fitted to got a
bit low and the machine stopped
working.
I must admit that I had fun searching for possible faults, changing
spark plugs, cleaning points, running new cables, changing where
the new module was mounted, etc.
It got to the stage where the machine would start and run for about
30 seconds, then simply die with
no spark. Wait for five minutes and
it would start and run for another
98 Silicon Chip
30 seconds. This happened quite
often and although I could read the
voltage on the module while the
machine was idle, by the time I got
the thing started and got the meter
on the test point, the motor would
shut down again.
Finally, I connected the battery
charger to top up the battery (the
built-in charger in the machine is
pretty sick and virtually useless) and
then thought I would try something
else. I don’t remember what it was
but anyway I started the motor and
it kept running! The battery voltage
was around the 12V mark when
I started all this so is there some
mechanism within the module that
would shut down the works if the
battery gets low? (D. H., via email).
• There is no protection mechanism
to shut down operation if the battery
voltage gets too low. We have done
that deliberately, otherwise you
would not be able to start the motor
if the battery was a bit marginal.
However, the micro does monitor the battery voltage to adjust the
dwell (the time the current flows
through the coil before each spark).
This means that if the battery is a
bit sick and the voltage is reducing,
the micro will increase the dwell to
keep the spark energy constant. This
actually means that as the battery
voltage reduces, the current draw
will increase. A sick battery will be
made sicker.
siliconchip.com.au
around 330V DC. There is the other
side of the coin also in that I could use
a 24-36V DC motor from a scooter but
then there is the issue of supplying it
with a current of up to 80A without
using batteries which leaves one in the
dark and messy world of switchmode
power supplies.
Most of the small hobby lathes and
milling machines use 180V DC motors
usually rated at around 500W and
a controller kit for these would be a
dream come true as the motors are
fairly cheap and have a small footprint
but they sting you for the controller.
(I. B., via email).
• Interconnecting the two controllers could be as easy as just having
a common ground between the 12V
controller negative supply and the
negative supply of the original PWM
controller with the dead microcontroller. However, there may be other
connection issues depending on how
the original PWM board works and
what signal is required to drive it. We
do not know whether the 230V section is fully isolated from the input
signal (dead microcontroller section)
or whether it is floating.
230/240VAC mains when rectified
will give 230/240V RMS pulsating
DC. If it is filtered with a capacitor to
provide smooth DC, then the capacitor will charge to the peaks of the half
sinewave shaped DC waveform. That
peak is some 1.414 (√2) times the RMS
value or 325/339V DC.
Modifying the current
adaptor for scopes
I am currently building the Isolated
Current Adaptor For Scopes (SILICON
CHIP, August 2012). I want to use the
ACS712-30A version and you state
that its output is 66mV/amp. I wanted
to get around this awkward number
by putting a resistive divider of 50/66
to make its output easily read on the
50mV scale. This could be done with
a resistor ratio of 24kΩ:75kΩ.
I have worked out a simple modification: replace the link from IC3 pin
7 with a 24kΩ resistor and then install
a 75kΩ resistor between pins 3 & 4 of
IC4a. What is your opinion on this?
(S. S., via email).
• That should work but the lower
resistor (75kΩ) should go between pins
3 & 5 of IC4. That’s because the output
of IC3 is at 2.5V when no current flows
and pin 5 of IC4b is the “virtual earth”,
siliconchip.com.au
Wiring Confusion In 12GHz Frequency Counter
I am in the process of building
the 12GHz Frequency Counter and
made a mistake with the orientation
of the ends of the ribbon cable joiner.
In re-doing this, I noticed a problem
in the article.
The layout of the display PCB
shows pins 1 & 2 at the centre-line
end of the connector (page 69, January 2013). The layout of the main
PCB (page 71, January 2013) also
has pins 1 & 2 at the centreline end.
However, in the main board view, the
header side guide block is shown on
the 1-19 side whereas in the display
view, the side block is shown on the
2-20 side.
This issue is compounded by the
two “open box” views on page 34
of the December 2012 issue and on
page 73 (January issue) where the
joining cable has the red stripe (pin
1) on opposite sides. I am inclined
to think what is shown on page 73
is wrongly joined. As the orientation of the joiner plugs could mean
which is at a similar voltage.
The ACS712 can supply up to 3mA
from its output pin 7 so you could
therefore possibly use lower value
resistors (2.4kΩ & 7.5kΩ) but the values
you have selected should be OK.
Ignition mods for
LPG/petrol vehicle
Can I ask if the code for the recent
High-Energy Ignition System(SILICON
CHIP, November & December 2012)
could be modified for use with an older
LPG/petrol fuel system? The modification would need to advance the timing
by 15° when LPG is selected.
It would also require another input
but I noticed pins 2, 3, 7 & 17 are not
used. A low-pass filter similar to the
trigger input would also be required,
although the filter could be a lot
stronger as the change-over period
tends to be days not milliseconds. (D.
E., via email).
• That particular ignition system
requires too many modifications. But
you can use the Programmable Ignition
from March, April & May 2007. It allows for advance and a dual ignition
timing map selectable with a switch.
The standard high energy ignition
a malfunction if not set correctly,
could you please check and inform
me? (L. W., via email).
• You are probably being misled by
the way the ribbon cable is shown
in the photos (page 73 and 75 of the
January issue) with its ‘red stripe’
side towards the power switch and
regulator, while it’s shown by implication on the other side of the ribbon
in the diagram of Fig.10. Our apologies for this apparent contradiction
but the fact is that the ribbon cable
will in fact work either way around,
as long as the connectors are fitted to
it exactly as shown in Fig.11 (page
75 of the January 2013 issue).
Because the cable and its connectors are symmetrical, the correct
connections will be made regardless
of which end is connected to CON6
on the display board and CON5 on
the main board. They just have to
be plugged into each connector with
the indexing “block” of the plug mating with the gap in the PCB socket.
systems are not suited for advancing
the timing since the advance calculation depends on the number of cylinders and stroke that the engine has
and that would need to be entered into
the ignition system. The keyboard for
the Programmable Ignition allows for
the required parameters to be entered.
It may also be necessary to vary
the 15° advance with RPM and load
to get the best performance under
all conditions. The Programmable
Ignition allows for mapping advance
against RPM and load and not just a
fixed advance.
Jaycar have the kits for the Programmable Ignition, Coil Driver and
Hand Controller (KC5442, KC5443
and KC5386).
How to store
semiconductors safely
I have a question regarding storage
of semiconductors. I have some plastic
storage drawers which are not classed
as ESD-safe, just regular plastic drawers. What I’d like to know, is it OK to
to store semiconductors in the plastic
drawers, just in the plastic tubes or
tape that they come in and not the
anti-static bags, as they take up too
July 2013 99
Digital Input DAC Preamp Next?
I was very interested to read your
latest articles for the CLASSiC DAC
project in the February-May 2013
issues. This is a large improvement on the earlier one. Looking
at the specifications provided in
the article, the THD+N was of the
order 0.01% whereas the same for a
preamp designed by yourselves at a
much earlier time was of the order
0.001% (sorry, all I recall was that
there was approximately a factor of
10 difference).
That said, I have an Oppo DVD
player which allegedly has a 32-bit
processor (the blurb suggests two of
them) and has all the outputs you
can poke a stick at, connected via
analog RCA sockets to my preamplifier (your earlier design; kit from
Altronics). I would of course prefer
to use digital outputs from the Oppo
to your DAC but it would appear that
this would result in a degradation of
the THD+N if inserted.
The question then comes to my
mind: are we at some time in the
future heading for a high-quality
preamp with TOS/Philips digital
inputs which would have the specs
of your earlier preamp designs or is
much room inside the bags? Or is there
something else that can be done, as
keeping everything in bags takes up a
lot of room and doesn’t allow similar
items to be grouped in the kind of
drawers that I have?
Also, will putting that anti-static
foam on the bottom work in protecting components which are kept outside their anti-static bags? (B. W., via
email).
• The tube/tape should be an antistatic type and will protect the parts
inside adequately as long as you
aren’t regularly zapping them with
big sparks (ie, ground yourself before
touching them). Most suppliers seem
to go overboard with layers of antistatic protection because they don’t
want their customers returning items,
claiming they were damaged by static
in transit and so on.
For through-hole parts, our preferred method is to cut up small
squares of anti-static foam (eg, Jaycar
ZV9998) and stick the component
100 Silicon Chip
this limited by the DAC and associated chip sets? (C. G., via email).
• There isn’t really that much difference in performance between
the CLASSiC DAC and the UltraLD Mk.3 (or similar) preamplifier,
especially when you consider how
they are normally used.
THD+N for the CLASSiC DAC
is around 0.001% but a lot of that
is noise. THD+N for the preamp is
probably below 0.0004% but that’s
at a fairly loud volume setting. Depending on the amplifier, speakers,
etc, you may be running it with
much less signal in which case the
noise becomes more significant and
its THD+N probably increases to a
similar level to the DAC.
In either case, the noise is normally low enough that it’s inaudible
unless perhaps you press your ear up
against the speaker grille.
Distortion does rise a bit more for
the DAC than the preamp at high frequencies but it’s still low enough to
be considered essentially inaudible
up to fairly high signal frequencies
(eg, 10kHz).
Keep in mind that a lot of this is
moot if you are using CD source ma-
leads into that. It’s a little expensive
but it can be re-used and goes quite a
long way, especially if you use both
sides. It’s also relatively compact,
especially when used with DIP ICs.
As long as all the leads are firmly in
the foam, it should protect them well.
3-channel remote
control system wanted
Could you please advise if you
have published an RF remote control
project that satisfies the following.
I am wanting to make my rooftop
mounted evaporative cooler into a
remote-controlled device. I will need
an RF remote control transmitter and
receiver with at least three channels.
Channel 1 would be for on /off and a
toggled channel is OK. Channel 2 is for
control of the water pump, dump valve
& inlet water solenoid and a toggle is
also OK. Channel 3 would be for the
fan motor variable speed and capable
of driving a motorised pot in forward
terial since the aliasing noise from
16-bit digital data is greater than
the noise and distortion contributed
by the DAC itself. In other words,
there is more distortion inherent
in the digital storage medium than
there is in the playback equipment.
To get the performance figures we
are quoting, you generally need to
use 24-bit/96kHz source material
or better.
It is possible to reduce distortion
at high frequencies from CD material using fancy digital processing,
which we’ve seen done in Marantz
CD players. This may not make any
audible difference but if you want a
CD player with distortion <0.001%
at 10kHz then Marantz is a good
option. In practice though, we think
our DAC will sound pretty much
the same.
We are not familiar with Oppo
DVD players so we cannot comment
on how the performance will compare or whether you would hear a
difference or not.
We are considering doing a pre
amp as you suggest, based on the
CLASSiC DAC. No promises as to
when that might be, though.
and reverse to replace the pot in the
original manual speed controller,
which is a simple Triac-based device.
I need an RF remote as the control
box where all the existing wiring is
in a walk-in wardrobe and I want to
control it from anywhere in the house.
High security is not a major factor for
this project. (P. C., via email).
• We published a 3-Channel Rolling
Code Remote Control in the August
and September 2009 issues of SILICON
CHIP (back issues available at www.
siliconchip.com.au). Its outputs are
mains-rated and can be momentary or
toggle. Altronics sell the kits (K1957
transmitter and K1958 receiver, www.
altronics.com.au).
Help with fuel pump
control for boat
A few years ago, I bought your
Frequency Switch project (Jaycar Cat.
KC5378) for automatic switching of my
motorbike’s headlights and it works
siliconchip.com.au
Feedback Query On 4-Channel Mixer
I have a technical question about
the Mix-It, 4-Channel Mixer project
by Nicholas Vinen (SILICON CHIP,
June 2012). In each of the preamps it
is possible to alter the gain by changing the value of R1-R4 in line with
the values in the table provided.
What I don’t understand is, why is it
necessary to change the value of the
220pF feedback capacitor if R1-R4 is
changed from 220Ω?
In the article, it says that C1-C4
need to be changed when changing
R1-R4 in order to keep the frequency
response constant but I am under
the impression that the upper cutoff (-3dB point) frequency is only
dependent on the 1.8kΩ feedback
resistor and the feedback capacitor,
not on R1-R4, ie:
Fcutoff = 1 ÷ (2π x 1.8kΩ x 220pF)
Therefore, I believe that by keeping the 1.8kΩ and 220pF feedback
components values constant, the
upper cut-off frequency remains
constant even if the gain is changed
by altering R1-R4. I don’t see any
need to alter the value of C1-C4.
Am I wrong in believing this?
Maybe there is some practical reason for changing the value of C1-C4,
when changing the value of R1-R4,
that I have missed.
I would very much appreciate it if
you could spare the time to answer
my query and put my mind at rest.
(C. H., via email).
• Changing either resistor value in
this type of circuit affects its frequency response – see the accompanying
SPICE simulation. Ignore the dotted
lines; the solid lines show the roll-off
due to the capacitor with everything
staying the same except the bottom
resistor in the divider having its
value stepped over the range shown
perfectly. Now we have a new kind
of problem.
We want to install a Facet DuraLift Fuel Pump on our speedboat for
refilling the boat’s petrol tank at sea
from additional canisters. To prevent
overfilling the boat tank, we need a
special relay to switch off voltage to
the pump. It can be operated by fuellevel sensor resistance.
So do you have some kind of switch
like the Frequency Switch but opersiliconchip.com.au
in the table we published.
You would be right if it was a
shunt feedback arrangement (ie, inverting amplifier) as in that case, the
gain is purely defined as the ratio of
the two impedances. The -3dB point
is then defined by the ratio of the capacitor impedance with its parallel
resistor as this determines the point
at which that combined impedance
drops to a particular fraction of what
it was originally. However, with
series feedback like this, the gain is
ated by sensor resistance? The relay
can supply the voltage. The refilling
pump can work only if the sensor
resistance is between 240Ω and 50Ω.
The power requirements are 12V <at>
1.5A. (J. V., via email).
• The Voltage Switch (Jaycar Cat.
KC5377) from our book “Performance
Electronics For Cars” could be used.
You would need to convert the sensor’s
resistance to a voltage which can be
done by connecting a fixed resistor in
the ratio of the divider plus one and
it is that plus one which means that
changing either of the resistor values
also changes the -3dB point.
Note that in our table, the capacitor values don’t vary in proportion
to the resistor values. The range of
resistor values is 15:1 (1.8kΩ:120Ω)
while the range of associated capacitor values is 5.6:1 (560pF:100pF).
It’s because of the more complicated
formula for gain in this type of situation.
series with it to form a voltage divider
and then connecting this across the 8V
supply. A 100Ω 5W rresistor would
be suitable.
Parts for
solar tracker
I’m looking at making the Solar
Tracker depicted on page 58 of the January 2012 issue of SILICON CHIP. However I cannot locate SC1 & SC2 mini
July 2013 101
Pulse Generator For Ignition System Demonstration
I am an automotive teacher from Wyong TAFE. I
have found some old PCBs that I had forgotten about.
They are for a pulse generator using a 555 timer circuit
that I used to have my students make as a project for
ignition testing. I would like to have some of my current students also use them but I have lost the circuit
drawing showing the component layout and the list of
components required.
I believe that the original circuit was covered in an
article in SILICON CHIP magazine in the 1990s. An earlier circuit also existed but this is a slightly improved
circuit as is uses a transistor on the output for testing
Hall sensors. Would you still have the circuit details or
know where I might find it? If you do have the details
could I have a copy? (S. A., Wyong, NSW).
solar panels or Mosfets FQD17P06 &
FQD20NO6. Could I substitute BD139s
& BD140s for the Mosfets? Any ideas?
(R. C., via email).
• Virtually any general purpose Nchannel and P-channel Mosfet can be
used in this circuit. You cannot use
BD139/140s. They are bipolar transistors, not Mosfets.
For the solar cells, you could try
ebay. For example, you could buy a
cheap USB solar charger and pull the
cells out of that.
Power supply needs
higher input voltage
I have just built the PIC Programmer
project from your May 2008 issue. I’ve
hooked up the project to run from a
15V DC regulated plugpack.
Checking the LM317’s output gave
a reading of 12.2V. Just to prove that I
was connecting the probes at the right
place I measured the output of the
7805 voltage regulator from the same
•
We have not been able to determine whether this
PCB was a magazine design or not. However, if you
want a 555-based circuit which will drive an ignition coil, you could have a look at our Jacob’s Ladder
project from the June 2007 issue. You can access the
article at www.siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2007/April/
Build+A+Jacob%E2%80%99s+Ladder This project is
available from Jaycar as a kit – Cat. KC-5445.
Alternatively, you could look at the more up-to-date
PIC-based ignition system which can be set up as a
self-contained ignition coil tester or as a Jacob’s Ladder. This can be accessed at www.siliconchip.com.au/
Issue/2013/February
We also stock the PCB, programmed micro and the
IGBT for this project. See www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/
earth point and got a reading of exactly
5V. The reading from the LM317 was
stable, not fluctuating.
Now what can I do with this? Does
this low reading mean I need a 16V
plugpack which was listed in the
specifications for the project? Or can
I do what they suggest and alter the
value of the adjustment resistor? Could
you tell me approximately what value
it would be?
I am having difficulty getting a 16V
plugpack and that is why I am using
a 15V plugpack. Do you know where
to get one? (R. M., via email).
• The LM317 in that circuit needs
more than 15V input to regulate to
13.6V. You could try shorting out D1
but you really need more input volts.
Electric fence
controller is reliable
Your Electric Fence Controller from
July 1995 interests me. How durable
is that design considering you have a
555 timer in close proximity to spiky
voltages from the ignition coil pri
mary? Are you sure the 7555 doesn’t
say a quick “goodbye” and is then “silent” forever more! (W. S., via email).
• That electric fence design is very
reliable. The 7555 is protected from
transients due to the isolation provided by the series diode and the 47Ω series resistor and the 470µF decoupling
capacitor for its supply rail. Proximity
to the ignition coil does not affect it
as the high-tension voltage is at the far
end of the coil, away from the 7555.
If the spark developed by the ignition coil were allowed to conduct
through the 7555, then the IC would be
damaged but the coil is not orientated
to allow that sort of discharge into the
circuitry.
The same circuit was used in our
Jacob’s Ladder project (September
1995), where the coil output was
drastically increased to provide a spectacular climbing spark between two
continued on page 104
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
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102 Silicon Chip
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July 2013 103
Advertising Index
ADM Instrument Engineering......... 5
Altronics.................................. 80-83
Dimitech....................................... 21
Elcomtel..................................... 103
Embedded Logic Solutions.......... 99
Emona Instruments...................... 61
Front Panel Express....................... 7
Grantronics................................. 103
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
High Profile Communications..... 103
Instant PCBs.............................. 103
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 102
conductors. If the circuit were prone
to failure, that would be a good test.
For extra protection in this circuit
for the Jacob’s ladder we added a 16V
zener diode across the 7555’s supply.
That zener was only included due to
the much higher coil discharge.
VHF antenna for
Band 3 reception
With the imminent switch-over to
digital TV in our major capital cities this year, some readers may not
be aware that after this the Government’s digital dividend will result in
re-stacking the television channels to
band 3 (VHF), at least for the major
capital cities.
In May 1986, Leo Simpson and Bob
Flynn presented an article in the old
EA magazine for a high-gain Yagi antenna for Channel 28, something that
I built and had great success with in
capturing transmissions from outlying
country areas from Melbourne. Currently, this antenna is used to receive
Melbourne digital TV as well as DAB+
radio and it still works well.
I was wondering if SILICON CHIP
could do a similar project especially
designed to operate in band 3 for
channels 6-12. From my perspective,
I can’t wait to eliminate the directors
no longer required to receive the old
analog channels such as ABC 2; the
pigeons would need to find a new
home! (A. P., North Sunshine, Vic).
• We covered this topic last month.
The problem with describing DIY antennas is that the cost of aluminium
rods etc is so expensive that by the
time you buy all the material and
104 Silicon Chip
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LED Sales.................................. 103
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hardware required, it is cheaper to
purchase the finished antenna. As a
bonus, it will be fully anodised and
should last for many years.
Having said that, there is probably
nothing to stop you from modifying
an existing wide band Yagi by removing the long directors and reflector
needed for channels below Channel
6. The folded dipole would need to be
reduced in dimension as well. A photo
in last month’s article showed how
an existing antenna would need to be
modified. However, unless the antenna
was in quite good condition initially,
trying to modify and refurbish it could
be a lot of time and effort.
CFL & LED flicker
with solid-state relays
I have a home with several homeautomation solid state relays (SSRs)
with low-voltage DC inputs switching
230VAC and these have been operating for several years with no issues
with incandescent globes. However,
whenever I try to put in CFL globes, all
“flash” at about two cycles per minute
which is not ideal; so I am stuck with
incandescents.
Recently, I purchased several Osram
and Philips LED globes and tested
these. The Osram ones do not flash
but the Philips ones do flash, so my
question is, is there anything I can
add (eg, a capacitor) to prevent this
from happening either on the DC or
Ocean Controls.............................. 9
Quest Electronics....................... 103
Quick Thinking Pty Ltd................... 7
Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD............ 93
RF Modules................................ 104
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(more likely) the AC side? I prefer the
Philips globes as they give a warmer
output than the Osram.
I also have 12V garden lights (LEDs)
that operate via one of these SSRs and
a transformer and they also flash but
at a slower rate; every three seconds.
I would rather not use relays as I
don’t see the need in this day and
age. I just thought you may have some
suggestions how to overcome this. (D.
H., via email).
• It is likely that the SSRs have a
minimum operating current and the
CFLs and LEDs may be close to that
current and thereby cause them to
flash. That is why incandescents with
their higher current are OK. Apart from
increasing the load current, nothing
can be done to cure the problem. SC
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