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Aaagh!
Does your Digital Multimeter lack an auto
power-down facility? Many don’t – and if
you forget to turn it off, next time you go to
use it you might be tempted to say naughty
words. This little circuit, which will cost
just a couple of dollars, will stop a DMM
chewing through batteries when you forget
to turn it off.
While this auto simple power-off circuit
is intended for Jaycar’s tiny QM1502
DMM, this could be applied to many
other battery-operated devices.
By Stan Swan
S
hoppers in Jaycar stores may have spotted their cute
new orange QM-1502 mini DMM (digital multimeter)
and wondered if such throwaway-priced “toys” can
be serious!
At its bargain price – five bucks – it’s hard to know if one
should laugh or cry at such trivial test gear prices. I recall
(as an early teen) paying ~$500 in today’s money for a far
inferior analog meter. For schools and hobbyist needs they
look extremely appealing – you can never have too many
multimeters of course!
But, even at only $5, are they worth a punt?
Although superior meters abound in the $40 range (and
should certainly be considered for those serious about
electronics), this little DMM merits a closer look for newcomers, schools and hobbyists.
With dimensions of just 94(H) x 46(W) x 26(D)mm it’s
almost laughably tiny (the footprint being smaller than a
credit card) but range settings are very clear and the display
is just as bright and clear.
Build is surprisingly good, with a sturdy switch action
and current drain an astoundingly low 250µA from the
small cylindrical A23 12V battery. A full set of normal electrical readings, even including transistor gain, are featured.
The (unfused) 10A DC current range remains usefully
connected even with the meter turned off – handy perhaps
78 Silicon Chip
for occasional monitoring of a photovoltaic solar array or
battery charger.
The 12V supply voltage is not critical and the DMM runs
well from a fresh 9V battery, with the “low batt” symbol only
showing at around 7V. Demand current, which “surged” to
400µA on resistance with shorted leads, otherwise remains
near 250µA.
Aside from newcomers, schools and toolbox spare use,
the DMM is also suitable as an inbuilt panel meter. That’s
right – just switch it to the setting you want, internally
An A23 battery might be rated at 12V but the opened-up
view at right shows why they don’t have much capacity –
they’re merely eight button cells packaged together.
siliconchip.com.au
I forgot to turn the
DMM off . . . again!
connect leads and supply and build it into the project!
Note however that it’s not possible to power the DMM
from the same circuit that you are monitoring. This arises
because many basic DMMs use a classic ICL7106 COB
(chip-on-board) for measuring and display. The “COM”
socket on such meters is at 3V lower potential than the
+ve terminal of the battery inside, as such an arrangement
also allows negative voltages to be measured.
What to do?
So what’s the downside of such a cheap meter?
External 9V battery supply: Alkaline types of ~500mAh
capacity (of which perhaps half will be available before
the supply falls below 7V), are cheaper than A23 (but
not much!) and are very widely available. They won’t fit
inside the QM-1502 case but could be readily mounted
externally, perhaps along with a supply switch. For many
users this approach may be appealing.
Several weak points emerge. For example, the meter sensitivity (or insertion resistance, if you like) is only around
1MΩ (most DMMs now are far better) and the supplied
probes are low quality – do not trust them for mains work!
We also found some difficulty in inserting the leads into
the multimeter sockets – they do go in, but. . .
The leads can readily be upgraded (you’ll probably pay
as much for better leads than the whole DMM, perhaps
more!), Or you might like to replace the test probe ends
with some more sturdy crocodile clips.
Even with decent test leads we sill have a major reservation about safety. While the DMM has ranges for 500V AC
and DC, we’d be very hesitant about using it for this type
of measurement.
In fact, we’d go so far as to say it should only be used on
low voltages – 50V AC or DC – and we’ve even prepared
a warning label to stick on the meter.
Several supply workarounds were considered, with an
eye to cost effectiveness – it’s unjustified spending much
more than the ~$5 meter cost on enhancements!
Space inside the meter case is tight but there’s enough
for some additional compact circuitry, although simpler
approaches may appeal (if only for constructional ease).
In approximate order of complexity, these include:
Case mounted switch: A dedicated supply switch can
also prolong the life of the DMM’s rotary switch, as a
pre-selected range can remain ready for immediate use
at power up.
(Many a DMM fuse is blown by “knob twiddlers” when
No auto off
However, the meter’s most annoying attribute (or nonattribute!) is the lack of auto-power-off. Despite the multimeter’s low current drain, the low capacity of 12V A23
batteries (which are merely eight button cells packaged
together) means that you’re likely be plagued by flat batteries, especially if you forget to turn it off.
And A23 batteries can be elusive and costly (often around
$5) – which may exceed the cost of the meter!
As alkaline A23 batteries typically have a 55mAh capacity, only a few dozen hours or so of operation will result
before the supply drops too low. Although tolerable for a
conscientious user, this equates to approximately a weekend, so failure to turn off the meter on Friday will likely
see it flat by Monday.
Educators who’ve found their class meter batteries dead
mere minutes before 30 surly youths arrive for a Monday
school lab session will keenly appreciate this particular
“electro-angst”…
Even with meagre supply needs, it makes no sense to
leave devices wastefully on when battery replacement
costs are high.
siliconchip.com.au
This is what the DMM looks like when it’s opened up.
Shown here very close to life size, you can see that there’s
room on the inside back of the case to add a simple auto
power-off circuit.
May 2013 79
+
+
meter current ranges are selected with the meter paralleled to the supply!) In conjunction with a low drain LED
(often still visible at a mere few hundred microamps),
a still-powered meter would then readily be noted in a
dark storage cupboard.
Solar Power: Although using a few tiny photo-voltaic
cells from cheap calculators or solar garden lights (most
provide ~3mA at several volts) is tempting, an array to
supply >7V would be difficult to neatly mount on the
front of this small DMM. Meters are often used in poorly
lit places indoors as well.
TO DMM's
POWER
SUPPLY
TO DMM's
PADSSUPPLY
POWER
PADS
–
S1
S1
DMM's
NORMAL
DMM's
12V
(A23)
NORMAL
BATTERY
12V (A23)
BATTERY
–
1k
1k
G
G
3.9M
3.9M
SC
SC
2013
2013
D
D
S
Q1
2N7000
Q1
2N7000
2N7000
2N7000
S
100F
100F
D
S
G
D
S
G
DMM
DMM AUTO
AUTO POWER
POWER OFF
OFF
Orientation switch: Mercury position switches (Jaycar
SM1044) are relatively costly and may annoy users when
the meter is in unexpected working positions.
Fig.1: the circuit is simply a switch (Q1) which is turned
on by pressing S1 and it turns the DMM off once the
100µF capacitor discharges, to conserve the battery.
Auto power off – microcontroller or IC: The popular
PICAXE-08M microcontroller can shut down totally after
some minutes but a sleeping PICAXE will draw tens of
microamps, which over time will still drain batteries.
Such an approach is rather an overkill anyway, as of
course a micro can do far more! Additionally, the cost
of the IC and extra components will likely exceed that
of the DMM.
needed, which are cheaper and fit better in the DMM’s
case than larger types.
A breadboard trial with the 2N7000 verified that a momentary push on the switch, with a 100µF electrolytic, paralleled with a 3.9MΩ across the gate, held the meter on for
about 10 minutes before the low battery symbol appeared.
This period should be enough for most users but could
be readily altered with different value discharge resistors,
An A23 battery, with its 350µA drain could stretch to
perhaps hundreds of such test sessions.
Simple components are used, and the total bill of materials should only be a few dollars. The benefit of such
an enhancement may be educational as well as financial,
especially for those fresh to electronics.
A “hands on” understanding of RC discharge and FET
action should result and organising the few components to
fit the DMMs interior may help new comers develop skills
with compact circuitry.
Auto-power-off – FET capacitor discharge: John Crichton’s
recent “Circuit Notebook” time-out switch (SILICON CHIP
January 2013) showed most promise and has been the
approach adopted.
Small signal FETs
High gain Darlington bipolar-based auto-power off circuits exist but the popular (and cheap) 2N7000 (N-Channel
enhancement mode FET with an insulated gate is superior
as, being a FET it has negligible gate current.
A major practical benefit of such gate supply switching
is that only low value (10-100µF range) electrolytics are
80 Silicon Chip
Construction
For such a simple circuit, a PCB is hardly warranted (and
would likely cost as much as the DMM).
Therefore a small (5x5 hole) Veroboard offcut was used
and the components connected as shown in the wiring
diagram. The electrolytic capacitor will not fit into the
case if soldered onto the Veroboard in the normal way – it
is laid over off the Veroboard and parallel to it, as shown.
The supply wiring (ie, from battery to the DMM PCB) was
then connected as shown in the diagram. You only need
to unsolder two of the wires (ie, those going from battery
to the PCB) and connect wires from your Auto Power-Off
3.9M
–
S
+
Auto-power-off capacitor discharge: As users are now familiar with such modern devices as cameras, cell phones
and PCs going “touch to revive”, a simple switched discharging electrolytic was considered. Quick tests with a
4700µF electrolytic confirmed several minutes hold up
until the ~7V “low battery” display came up.
This is readily verified by Q = I x t = V x C, when a
250µA drain at 12V should fall in one time constant (T)
to 1/e (37%) of the original voltage (12V x .37 = ~ 4V.
Hence the time constant = 12 x 4700 x 10-6/(250 x 10-6)
= ~200 seconds.
This approach could suit push switch operation for
quick checks (perhaps of circuit charge/discharge currents or supply voltages) but power will only be held
on for few minutes. This time will be too short for most
users, and can only be extended with larger value capacitors (10,000µF+), or even super-caps,which will be
bulky and perhaps costly.
V+
TO DMM
SUPPLY
PADS
V–
G
+
D
12V ALKALINE
BATTERY
“Joule thief” step up: Solar garden lamps use step-up circuitry to drive a 3-4V white LED from a single AA(A)
sized battery. Although higher voltages are possible,
they’re at very reduced currents and with rough output,
requiring smoothing and regulation.
–
Q1
2N7000
S1
100F
16V
1k
STRIP BOARD –
LOOKING
THROUGH
BOARD
SIDE OF REAR
OF DMM CASE
Fig.2: a suggested Veroboard layout and wiring diagram.
The Veroboard and 100µF electrolytic capacitor can be
secured to the DMM case with double-sided adhesive.
siliconchip.com.au
The finished
modification.
There’s not
much to it but
note that you’ll
almost certainly
have to lay the
electrolytic
capacitor over
to get it to fit
in the case.
Otherwise, it’s
just a matter of
breaking the
positive and
negative leads
from the battery
and inserting
the auto turnoff PCB.
switch in their place.
Finally, carefully drill a hole in the
side of the case (back section) for the
pushbutton switch (its diameter will
depend on the exact switch you use).
There is a ridge all around the case
and unfortunately the hole needs to go
through the case where the ridge steps
down. But once tightened properly,
this should not be a problem.
Depending on the size of your
switch, you may need to mount the
Veroboard underneath the battery
compartment – if you do, make sure
it’s as close as possible to the battery
to avoid interference with the current
shunt in the DMM (the thick copper
wire near the terminals at the bottom
of the case).
Similarly, make sure it doesn’t interfere with the on-board fuse.
We used a switch probably larger
than necessary, originally to maintain
Parts List –
DMM Auto Power Off
(all available from Jaycar/Altronics/etc):
1 NO momentary pushbutton switch
1 2N7000 FET or equivalent
1 100µF 16V electrolytic capacitor
1 scrap of Veroboard (5 x 5 holes)
Short lengths of red and black
hookup wire
Resistors (1/8 or 1/4W, 5%)
1 3.9MΩ (orange white green gold)
1 1kΩ
(brown black red gold)
siliconchip.com.au
the isolation between contacts and
outside. However, with our comments
about using the DMM on 50V or less,
a much smaller switch will suffice.
If you do use the switch we used
(a Jaycar SP-0702) you might like to
remove the large red knob and cut back
the actuator a little.
One further enhancement also
makes the meter more “user friendly”:
marking the setting arrow more boldly
with a spirit-based pen ensures correct
settings.
While the arrow and markings are
obvious in bright light, they are much
less so in dim light!
Speaking of light, we’ve found that
some of these meters are sensitive to
bright sunlight (affecting readings).
This can be simply cured with a piece
of black electrical tape over the back
of the chip (the black blob!).
Finally: don’t twiddle the pot!
Note – the potentiometer, or variable resistor, in the DMM is used for
calibration, so avoid altering its factory
setting as re-calibration may then be
needed and you won’t have the equipSC
ment necessary to do this.
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Order online:
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May 2013 81
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