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September 2013 1
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Contents
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.26, No.9; September 2013
Features
14 Speedometer Head-Up Displays
OBDII or GPS-based head-up displays (HUDs) can be purchased
for around $100 and are far more accurate than your vehicle’s own
speedometer – by Leo Simpson & Nicholas Vinen
22 Graphene: 300 Times Stronger Than Steel
It’s super-strong, super-thin and has a vast range of exciting applications
in electronics and materials science – by Dr David Maddison
28 Review: Bush TR82DAB DAB+/FM/AM/LW Radio
This classic design looks almost identical to the original 1959 Bush transistor
radio (described this month in Vintage Radio) but incorporates modern circuitry
with FM and DAB+ reception – by Leo Simpson
Speedometer Corrector Mk.3
– Page 32
82 Review: Altium Designer 2013 PCB Layout Software
Successor to the popular Autotrax and Protel ECAD programs, Altium Designer
has a lot more features and capabilities than its predecessors. We take a look
at the latest version – by Nicholas Vinen
Pro jects To Build
32 Speedo Corrector, Mk.3
If you’ve swapped your car’s wheels, instrument panel, gearbox or differential,
your speedometer may no longer be correct. This Speedo Corrector can fix that
problem. It operates from 12V or 24V DC and is easy to build – by John Clarke
42 Collinear Antennas For Aircraft ADS-B Signals
Want to pick up aircraft ADS-B signals over a greater range than is possible
using the antenna supplied with USB DVB-T dongles? These collinear antennas
will do the job and can also be made for other frequencies – by Ross Tester
Collinear Antennas
For Aircraft ADS-B
Signals – Page 42
64 LifeSaver For Lithium & SLA Batteries
Don’t ruin an expensive SLA, Li-Ion, Li-Po or LiFePO4 battery by overdischarging it. This small circuit will protect it by cutting off power before it
reaches the danger zone – by Nicholas Vinen
70 Simple 12V/24V Regulator For 70V Solar Panels
Want to run 12V lights and accessories independently of the 230VAC mains
supply? With a 72W solar panel, this simple regulator and a 12V SLA battery,
you can run a string of LED lights anywhere and at any time – by Branco Justic
LifeSaver For Lithium &
SLA Batteries – Page 64.
Special Columns
58 Serviceman’s Log
Another day, another dropped phone or tablet – by Dave Thompson
78 Circuit Notebook
(1) MiniMaximite Version Of The 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver;
(2) UV Light Box & Timer With LED Array; (3) Arduino Temperature &
Humidity Data Logger
91 Vintage Radio
Best Of British: the Bush TR82C Mk.2 transistor radio – by Ian Batty
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
siliconchip.com.au
27 Subscriptions
40 Product Showcase
96
98
103
104
Online Shop
Ask Silicon Chip
Market Centre
Notes & Errata
Simple 12V/24V Regulator
For 70V Solar Panels – Page 70.
September
eptember 2013 1
2013 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Kevin Poulter
Stan Swan
Dave Thompson
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Head-up displays are a boon
This issue features an article on head-up displays in
cars, starting on page 14. For a month or so now, I have
been driving with a head-up display projected on to
the windscreen, just below my normal view of the road
ahead. Surprisingly, there is nothing particularly high-tech
about the display itself. It is basically a 3-digit 7-segment
multiplexed display which projects up onto a reflective
layer on the windscreen. The display is actually mirrored
vertically so that the image can be read.
I have reviewed two forms of the head-up display. The
first is based on a GPS receiver (the same as in any GPS satellite navigation system)
which simply displays the true vehicle speed. As such it has two significant advantages compared with my Honda Accord’s own speedo: it is far more accurate and
I don’t have to glance down at the speedo to check it; I just slightly shift my gaze
down a little, with my eyes never leaving the road ahead. It is such an effective
system I have virtually stopped checking the speedo itself.
But there are drawbacks with the GPS head-up speedo display. Like all GPS
units, it takes a while, maybe several minutes, before it first accesses the satellites
and gives a meaningful reading. Second, it does not work in tunnels or in some
inner city streets where tall buildings block the satellite signals.
Which is why I tried the second form of head-up display, based on signals from
the car’s OBD (on-board diagnostics) socket. This has a number of advantages
over the GPS approach. First, it does not have a significant delay before it starts
working and it is unaffected by tunnels, tall buildings or whatever. It is not quite
as accurate as the GPS display but is considerably closer to the actual speed than
the Honda’s own speedo.
The OBD head-up display also shows a lot more information. As well as speed,
it has a dramatic-looking bargraph tachometer and a smaller 2 or 3-digit display of
the instantaneous fuel consumption in litres/100km. This really is a boon because
it gives instant feedback about fuel consumption for even the slightest deflection of
the accelerator pedal. Even more valuable, it tells you when your fuel consumption
is zero! In my Honda Accord, this occurs at any speed above about 57km/h when
my foot is off the accelerator and the transmission is in Drive.
This makes it far easier to drive with the utmost fuel economy in mind. It becomes something of a game – you try to use the minimum throttle setting at all
times while keeping up with the traffic. At the same time, you develop the strategy of braking as little and as late as possible, driving very smoothly, anticipating
changes of lights and traffic movements far ahead. All of this is necessary if you
are to achieve excellent fuel consumption.
Now I know that most motorists don’t drive with fuel economy in mind, even
though fuel is expensive and ever rising in cost. If queried about this behaviour,
they would no doubt argue, correctly as it happens, that fuel is not a major cost
in typical car ownership. For my part, it is part of my normal driving behaviour
to drive as economically as possible. I also happen to think that my passengers
enjoy a very smooth trip better than one characterised by jack-rabbit starts, frequent
braking and so on.
For anyone who is of like mind therefore, a head-up display with actual speed
and instantaneous fuel consumption is most useful. And the great thing is that you
don’t have to change your car to get one. They can be purchased cheaply and they
are simple to fit. Furthermore, if you drive long distances, driving with economy in
mind can save a substantial amount in fuel cost over a year, as well as considerably
reducing wear and tear on tyres, brakes, transmission and so on.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
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September 2013 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Comment on the HMV
456A mantel radio
Although my 26-year spell in the
radio design department of EMI at
Homebush started in 1951, the photos
of the 1946 HMV 456A mantel radio
(made by this company) in the August
2013 issue, a slightly earlier radio,
brought back some technical memories. For the last 12 years, from about
1965 to the closure of the Homebush
plant in 1977, I was officially deemed
“Senior Radio-Audio Development
Engineer”. It was my joy to work at
my hobby, starting from the valve era
to the solid-state era.
I have some comments on the photos
of the radio. Notice that the tuning
gang is on a rubber-mounted subassembly. Because of its proximity to
the loudspeaker, this was an attempt
to minimise acoustic feedback via the
local oscillator tuning-gang plates.
Identical sections in the tuning-gang
were used to track the local oscillator
Nuclear power an interim power
solution for Australia
If Australia is to maintain its high
population industrial conurbations
and phase out the now aging fossilfuel power stations, it has no option
but to go nuclear. Current renewable
energy has shown some potential
to take a greater role in powering
non-industrial population centres
and peak loads but not base load for
heavy industrial centres.
Nuclear energy should be viewed
as an interim measure for a 50-year
period. This is about the life of a
nuclear plant, giving time for development and systematic installation
of renewable technology instead of
the panic measures that have become
a bandwagon for a quick buck that
hides poor base load performance.
The only alternative to not going
nuclear today is to accept rapidly
lower living standards as the level
of industrialisation is reduced under
4 Silicon Chip
to exactly the tuned frequency plus
the 457.5kHz intermediate frequency
and there was a capacitor in series
with the local oscillator gang and coil.
When properly tuned with the aid of
the oscillator coil and trimmer capacitors, there would be three positions on
the dial at which the incoming signal
and the local oscillator were “in step”.
Between those, the mild departure
between the two could be plotted as
an “S” curve.
Later, as radios became smaller, a
smaller 2-gang tuning capacitor was
manufactured by MSP, in which the
local oscillator section had a smaller
capacitance “contour” to ideally tune
the two together. Also, the outer rotor
plates were segmented to permit fine
manually-adjusted tuning when doing
the alignment.
Incidentally, a common practice to
clean aged dirty plates was to connect
the DC rail (approximately 200V) to
the offending gang stator via a 1MΩ
the effect of very high energy costs.
Our energy hungry cities have grown
up on the back of electrical power
generation and adjustment will
take a long time. It is not a question
of putting in more and more wind
turbines or solar panels; the physics
and maths are just not that simple.
As someone who spent over 20
years with RF, X-ray, and nuclear
radiation, I believe that all aspects
of occupation health and safety for
radiation is a non-issue, providing
complacency does not set in.
Perhaps the most understandable
and real fear from nuclear energy
is that of accidents and disposal of
used materials. It is mainly for the
latter that I propose nuclear should
be used as an interim fuel.
Good sites for the safe disposal of
radioactive waste, although not rare,
are usually located in places where
social opposition is fierce, leaving
only a few areas that are actually
resistor. Fully rotating the gang a few
times was often enough to ‘burn-off’
the dirt.
In developing a dial for a new
model, a “standard” gang, with finely
calibrated oscillator section, was
used for plotting out every station’s
call-sign in Australia, by the drawing
office, for the dial-glass manufacturer.
Woe-betide any new model that failed
to have them all! We’d soon hear of
it from the “locals”. The tuning gang
rotation (in degrees) against signals
from a calibrated signal generator
was converted to dial-drum determined angular displacements for the
draughtsman.
Eventually the 10kHz spacing of AM
stations in Australia was changed to
agree with the 9kHz European spacing.
Station call-signs then disappeared. It
available. On-going use of nuclear
will build up the waste mound and
as the decay rate is so long, there does
seem, with current technology, to be
a limit as to how much waste we can
reasonably cope with.
It would be silly to say accidents
can never happen. Analysis of factors
contributing to nuclear accidents do
not seem to be just human/technical
or equipment failure but have political, vested interest and corruption
components that overruled technical reason. I have the confidence
that Australia has a political and
technical structure to eliminate these
structural problems and ensure an
incident is always contained.
Whether it is nuclear or fossil fuel,
either way we still have to build new
power stations and nuclear is the
lower carbon option over the life
span of the power station.
Kelvin Jones,
Kingston, Tas.
siliconchip.com.au
was interesting how long the numbers for both metres (wavelength) and kHz (then kilocycles/second) were retained!
The aerial coil was wound with Litz wire, in separate
layers with “ferrite-like” slugs. These were pre-tuned, then
dipped in pink wax. Whilst the selectivity of the radio
depended primarily on the IF section, the aerial coil had
a surprisingly high “Q”, approaching 400, and also contributed to the selectivity. This was to the disadvantage of
bandwidth and thus ‘highs’, particularly at the low (ABC)
end of the dial.
With respect to the orange-coloured soldered joints in
these sets, it was normal to position an inspector at the
end of the assembly line with a pot of coloured lacquer
and a multimeter. He/she would ‘bless’ the quality of each
soldered joint with a dab of orange paint. Later in the life
of the radio one would readily see what had been replaced
by a serviceman. Other manufacturers used other colours.
With respect to the failed dial lamps and the opencircuited socket problem mentioned, we later switched to
miniature bayonet sockets. Also, with the coming of solid
state, I used a designated 6V dial lamp winding on the
transformer for longer life (tests showed lamp life extended
by the fourth power when the voltage was reduced!). My
43-year old HMV clock radio lamp still works!
Neville Snow, ASTCEE
Burwood, NSW.
Wrong valve used in
vintage radio restoration
I enjoyed reading the Vintage Radio article on the HMV
456A in the August 2013 issue however there are problems
using the 6F6 as an alternative output valve as described.
The 6F6 and EL33 valves are not ‘near equivalents’. While
they are both output pentodes with 6V heaters and the same
base configuration there are major differences in some of
their other characteristics.
The 6F6 has a gm (mutual conductance) of 2.5mA/V
while the figure for the EL33 is 9mA/V. In simple terms,
this means that the EL33 requires a much lower input signal
to its control grid for the same power output.
Manufacturers were always looking for ways to save
on component costs and because valves were a relatively
costly item, if a receiver could be made with four valves
instead of five the result was a more attractive selling price.
Two popular configurations were used to try to make up
for the loss of the fifth valve: (1) reflexing, where one of
the remaining valves was used to amplify two signals at
different frequencies and hence perform the function of
two valves; and (2) the use of high-gain output valves.
Contrary to the text, the 6G8-G in the HMV does not
function as an audio amplifier but only as an IF amplifier,
detector and AVC rectifier since it is not reflexed. Hence
the audio signal available to drive the output valve is relatively low and this is made up to some degree by the use of
a high-gain output valve. With some component changes
the 6F6 will function and on strong local stations, with the
volume well advanced, the set will work but not with the
overall performance attainable with the EL33.
Another significant difference between the 6F6 and
EL33 is the required grid bias; -16.5V for the 6F6 and -6V
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 5
Mailbag: continued
Snowy hydro plants now
off-limits to visitors
I recently visited the Snowy
Mountains on holiday and I wanted
to looked at some of the Hydroelectric Scheme infrastructure. I was
very disappointed to learn at the
Murray 1 Visitor Centre that there
are now no public inspections of
any of the hydro plants other than
Murray 1 and then only for limited
hours (although, to be fair, the Visitor’s Centre is very good).
It used to be possible to do inspections of other hydro stations apart
from this one.
I also went to the viewing area for
the Murray II power station and saw
evidence that there must have been
explanatory signs at one time but
these have been cut down; it looks
for the EL33. This voltage is achieved
by cathode bias in the HMV set via a
150Ω resistor (R14), in the cathode
circuit of the EL3NG. If a 6F6 is to
be used this resistor will need to be
increased to 410Ω or the valve will
be under-biased and draw excessive
current, resulting in an overload of the
HT supply, in turn placing a strain on
the 6F6, output transformer, speaker
field winding, rectifier and finally the
power transformer. In due course, one
of them will fail.
Better alternatives to the EL33 may
have been the 6AG6 or KT61 which
have similar characteristics however
these are now getting harder to obtain.
The function of the EL33 was provided
in later years, with the advent of miniature valves, by the 6M5 which had
almost identical characteristics.
Expecting any of the paper or electrolytic capacitors to be serviceable
after 67 years is wishful thinking.
Even if the electrolytics have not fully
dried out their ESR will be ‘through
the roof’ and though they may appear
to be working will most certainly fail,
sometimes in a spectacular way.
It was quite normal for the paper
capacitors used in this type of set
to need replacing during the normal
working life of a receiver. The paper
dielectric absorbs moisture and the
6 Silicon Chip
like the support poles were cut off
with an angle grinder. In addition,
the viewing area at Eucumbene Dam
was in poor condition.
The Snowy Mountains Scheme
was and remains an extremely important engineering endeavour for
Australia and continues to contribute to Australia’s great wealth. It is
a shame that it now appears to be
less available for inspection than in
the past.
School children used to learn
about the Snowy Mountains Scheme
and go on excursions to visit it. I
certainly did. I suppose now they
mainly learn about the supposed
evils of building dams and using
electricity . . .
Dr David Maddison,
Toorak, Vic.
attendant leakage results in a variety
of faults in the set.
These days, the only place for old
paper capacitors is in the bin along
with the electrolytics!
Warwick Woods,
Glen Iris, Vic.
Lack of precision
about motor currents
I read with a slight degree of alarm
when someone states a running current
and a starting current for an AC motor
or an appliance with an AC motor. The
running current is fine as it is generally
a full-load current or a current draw
under normal operating conditions.
It is a value that is generally averaged
out over a period that includes several
or more AC cycles. Therefore, it can
be measured with a clamp-meter or a
shunt with a voltmeter.
The meter can be analog or digital, true RMS or an averaging meter
calibrated to read RMS (assuming a
sinusoidal waveform).
A starting current without explanation is less precise. Is it the peak measurement from a 100MHz or greater
bandwidth CRO? Is it the perceived
maximum swing of an analog meter
that is actually measuring an average
value and trying to display it as an
RMS value, assuming the waveform
is sinusoidal, which it wouldn’t be? Is
it the display of a digital RMS meter
with max. hold capability? But we
don’t know the limitations of its measurement system in regard to dV/dt
or maximum frequency response or
perhaps one of dozens of other instrument measuring systems, each with its
own little quirks.
Numbers quoted for ratios of starting currents to full-load currents vary
from 3, 5, 7, 10 or any other number
that someone thinks sounds good but
rarely is the measurement procedure
fully explained. The procedure should
quote specifications like the actual
instrument or class of instrument used
for measuring the current, type of load
at start-up, eg, lightly loaded (eg, fan),
fully loaded at start-up (eg, hoist) or
greater than 100% load at start-up (eg,
conveyor belt).
The period should be specified over
which the result is averaged, eg, 10
cycles, one cycle, one half-cycle, milliseconds and so should the method of
averaging, eg, mean, RMS, instrument
inertia, digital filtering.
Other factors are power supply
source impedance (since the results
using an infinite bus like mains power
would be different to a portable generator or an DC/AC inverter) and AC
power supply voltage and acceptable
variations in that voltage. Motors can
be rated at a nominal voltage but a
voltage variation as small as 10% can
make a big difference to the measured
results.
Perhaps when contributors to this
column or other articles state transient
values like starting currents of motors
they could include more details on
how these values were obtained.
Trevor Krause,
Gympie, Qld.
Swapping tractor
coil polarity
With reference to changing the ignition polarity of an old Ferguson tractor
(Ask SILICON CHIP, June 2013, page
90), it’s even easier than the methods
suggested therein. There are several
ways to do it.
The easy way is to just flash the field
terminal to +12V while the engine is
not running. Then, before starting, lift
of the D+ lead (dynamo + or output
lead), start the tractor and rev it to 1500
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 7
Mailbag: continued
We should act now
on nuclear power
I find your support for nuclear
energy (Publisher’s Letter, July 2013)
refreshing. As I grow older, I am
more and more convinced that Australia should move to nuclear power.
We have the advantage of having
much open space in which nuclear
power stations could be built.
We should also be building solar
power stations like the La Florida
one at Alvarado in Spain. Using liqRPM. Check with your voltmeter that
the D+ lead is actually positive with
respect to earth. If it is, reconnect and
away you go.
When reconnecting, watch the ammeter and listen to the voltage regulator. If the meter buzzes or the regulator
makes a funny noise, it means that
the voltage is still the wrong polarity
and the voltage regulator is seeing
over-current, switching off, seeing no
current, switching on etc a hundred
8 Silicon Chip
uefied salt as a medium, it produces
432MW. We have the climate in
which we should build several such
plants across the country, thus providing some flexibility when cloud
happens to reduce output from one
of the plants.
We must act now to reduce our
carbon emissions and going nuclear
and building large solar plants is the
way to achieve that end.
Ken Anderson,
Sale, Vic.
times a second. Obviously, the regulator contacts can’t take that and will be
quickly ruined.
If it does make funny noises, re-flash
the field (DF) lead while the engine is
running. That should fix it. If you are
really lazy, start the tractor up (with
the battery connected negative earth),
let it idle (the voltage regulator won’t
be picked up as the engine speed is
too low) and flash the field as above.
Give the throttle a bit of a nudge,
and watch the ammeter. You should
see it rise slightly towards the positive
as the voltage regulator picks up, then
as you increase the revs, it should go
through zero and go more negative,
or discharge. (This is because the ammeter will need its terminals swapped
around to read correctly as the current
is flowing the opposite way to what it
was as + earth).
Don’t worry about the starter motor as it’s a series motor and polarity
independent, as are the lights, etc.
The voltage regulator is also OK and
polarity independent.
Be aware that there were some alternators that were positive earthed but
the old Ferguson tractors all used a
CAV type generator with ratings from
19 amps (C39) to 25 amps (C42). Parts
are becoming hard to find but bearings,
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time the truck was started, it would
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Mailbag: continued
Cable voltage drop
is the problem
Regarding a question by R. S. in
“Ask SILICON CHIP” (page 99, August
2013) “Using The Soft Starter With A
Fridge”, I may have a simple remedy.
I too encountered similar problems
starting my fridge with a generator. It is a 550-litre Samsung with
electronic controls and initially I
attempted to run it during a black-out
with a Honda EU10i (a 1kVA inverter
type) generator through a standard
10-metre extension cord. The fridge
refused to start, displaying similar
symptoms to those R. S. wrote about.
Standard 10A extension cords
typically use only 1mm2 conductors which I found caused enough
excite as positive earth. Re-flash and
it would work negative earth until the
engine was stopped. Never did solve
that one.
Theoretically, the coil should be
swapped around but in our climate,
it does not seem to matter. There are
some good reasons for + earth to do
with electron flow. A new coil probably won’t hurt as the original is 50
years old by now. Add electronic ignition and you’ve brought it up to the
21st century.
I can’t resist a comment or two
regarding the Federal Government’s
recent very fast train study. First, make
it fast (600km/h+) and make it a tourist
attraction. It could use mag-lev (magnetic levitation) to get around noise
problems and be built four metres
above ground. This has many advantages, such as freedom from floods, no
straying animals on the track, no need
to resume land (just simple easements
are needed). The best route can then
be selected and it doesn’t have to follow the existing way. It could be built
from many directions at once, with the
work spread all over the country to
hundreds of fabrication shops.
Peter Laughton (VK2XAN),
Tabulam, NSW.
An operator’s view
of wind farms
I was a member of one of the original
10 Silicon Chip
voltage drop, coupled with the
generator’s limitations, to prevent
the fridge from starting.
I bought a “heavy duty” extension
lead from the local hardware store
with 10A fittings but “15A” cable
which used 1.5mm2 conductors.
This made all the difference, as my
little 1kVA generator could now easily start the fridge. I have since had
a caravan inlet socket mounted in
my shed which has about 40 metres
of 6mm2 cable connecting it to a
generator change-over switch in my
meter box so I can power things in
the house during blackouts without
mucking around with extension
leads and boards.
I still use the same little 1kVA
crews of operators of the Woolnorth
Wind Farm in far north-west Tasmania. I have been a hydro-electric power
station operator for many years and
hold electrical trade and electrical
engineering qualifications. Having
read all of the articles and letters in
SILICON CHIP on the pros and cons of
wind energy, I can no longer sit back
without adding comment on some of
the issues.
In almost two years of spending
long hours living and working beside
operating turbines, not once did any
members of our crews experience any
form of sickness, nor did we suffer
ill-health effects or sleep deprivation from being in close proximity to
spinning wind turbines. This is not a
statement for or against wind farms,
it is just a fact.
In the June 2013 issue of SILICON
CHIP, one correspondent writes, “Wind
Factories don’t result in one less scoop
of coal being used to generate power.”
In any electrical grid system running at
a set frequency (ie, 50Hz in Australia),
the net load demand must exactly
equal the net generating capacity for
the frequency to be stable at 50Hz.
Indeed, power companies must go to
great lengths to ensure that the system
frequency is as close as possible to
this figure, normally within tenths of
one hertz.
Too little generation or too great
generator connected to this inlet
socket via a custom-made short,
heavy (2.5mm 2 ) lead and even
though there is now more than 50m
of cable between it and the first appliance, it can start (in this order) a
550-litre fridge, a 160-litre freezer, a
32-inch CRT TV and a large number
of fluoro lights, all running together,
which goes to show just how critical
wire sizing can be. Considering this
example, a 3kVA generator should
easily start at least one fridge as long
as the interconnecting lead has at
least 1.5mm2 conductors.
Just a note about safety; my generator is run inside the shed for noise
and security reasons but the exhaust
connects to a pipe mounted through
the wall to vent the fumes outside.
Dale Sills,
Bunbury, WA.
a load and the frequency falls; too
much generation or too little amount
of loading and the frequency will
rise.
Remember that many electronic
devices derive their timing reference
from the mains frequency. Thus,
your correspondent’s above assertion ignores the fact that when wind
turbines are operating, the equivalent
amount of other forms of energy must
be ramped downwards as a result of
this extra generation input.
The net result is that less fuel is
being used, no matter what type. In
the state of Tasmania, wind farms
lend themselves perfectly to coexisting with hydro-electric plant. When
the wind blows, the amount of energy
generated means that the equivalent
amount of hydro generation is not
required, allowing that water to be
stored for later use.
Many mainland centres use hydro
pumped-storage systems in conjunction with wind generation for this
reason.
Your correspondent further states
that “Wind factories at best operate at
17% capacity and take power from the
grid the rest of the time”. The figure of
17% may be true of some wind farms
but it must be remembered that these
units are designed to operate with
wind speeds of between 3.5 metres
per second and 25 metres per second
siliconchip.com.au
and will have varying output power
accordingly.
If we look at a hydro-electric power
plant such as Wilmot Power Station in
Tasmania’s north-west, it has a maximum rating of 32 megawatts. There are
times in wet weather when the dam is
on spill and the station generates 32
megawatts. However, there are many
times when the station is shut down
because the water has run out.
The fact is that any generator is designed to produce the energy output
that gives you the best all-year-round
performance with the fuel resource
you have available. The point about
being only 17% of capacity would
therefore seem irrelevant, given that
we are really interested in annual
yields from a renewable resource.
This comment encouraged me to
look at a snap-shot of the generation
trend from Woolnorth’s Bluff Point
Wind Farm, which is metered at the
110kV output transformer. For no particular reason, I chose the first 14 days
of generation from June 1 to June 14,
2012 and recorded the output power
every hour for the 24-hour period. On
June 1, the wind farm produced only
6.6% of its capacity in the 24-hour
period. On June 6 it produced 33.2%
and June 7, 58.5%.
On June 14, it produced 62.99%
capacity. The average yield for the
14 days was 33.05%. This study took
considerable time to complete and
one day I will sit down and calculate
the whole year’s generation. I am
absolutely confident that the figure of
17% is way short of the actual figure
for Woolnorth.
Your correspondent is also correct
when he states that, “they take power
from the grid the rest of the time”. It
is true, however, that the amount of
power taken from the grid when the
turbines are stationary is an absolute
pittance when compared to generating
output. This small amount is necessary
to power the protection and control
equipment, plus a token amount for
light and power.
Having looked at the year’s trend of
the Bluff Point section of the Woolnorth Wind-farm, which has a total
of 37 x 1.75MW units for an installed
capacity of 64.75MW, in the first 14
days of June 2012 (traditionally our
non-windy time of year) the peak
generation reached 52.87MW, whilst
the minimum figure on the trend
line showed a value at one point of
-0.92MW when the turbines were all
stationary. This figure also includes
the complete loading for the control
building at Bluff Point.
The fact that a small amount is
consumed when the plant is not operating applies equally to any power
station you care to mention, since
they all need permanently-powered
equipment to sustain normal “ready
to start” operation.
His final assertion that we should all
educate ourselves by viewing a website called www.stopthesethings.com/
cannot go unanswered. Does anyone
really believe that a website with such
a name would present balanced views?
In summary, since I do not live or
work near wind farms these days I
have nothing to gain by presenting an
argument for or against wind power.
I am only interested in facts and it
would seem to me that these facts are
being skewed to suit particular points
of view.
Terry Ives,
Penguin, Tas.
Ultra-HD & digital radio
not mentioned
My letter is about the article “Digital
TV: Where To From Here?”, by Alan
Hughes in the June 2013 issue of
SILICON CHIP. This article answered my
question about the data bandwidth of
DVB-T2, which turned out to be more
than enough if all free-to-air channels went Ultra-HD in H.265 video
compression. In the Digital Ready
brochures issued in the mail in June
2011 in our area, there was no specific
mention about MPEG4.
I have identified a possible Service
Number (or Logical Channel Number)
conflict (Service 24) between ABC
News 24 and a possible upcoming
dedicated channel called ABC4Kids.
After the change to MPEG4, if there
is space for ABC4Kids (Service 24),
ABC News 24 should be renamed ABC
News 24/7 (a better name of course!)
and move to Service 247.
There was no mention in the article
about digital radio in the VHF High
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September 2013 11
Mailbag: continued
Petition to government concerning
obsolete wireless microphones
With respect to the recent SILICON CHIP article (June
2013, pages 40-41) on new requirements for wireless
microphones and my letter in the Mailbag pages of
the August 2013 issue, the Australian Wireless Audio Group have started an electronic petition to be
delivered to the Senate, asking for assistance to raise
awareness of the issue and help get the department
motivated in regards to a possible compensation
scheme for community users.
The petition can be found at www.wirelessaudioaustralia.org/
Jeff MacKenzie,
Jands Pty Ltd (AWAG member).
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12 Silicon Chip
band; VHF TV Channels 9 and 9A have notably been omitted from Restack Channel Block A, which means there are
nine 1.5MHz wide DAB+ digital radio channels available
with a gap before VHF Channel 10. Perhaps digital TV
receivers could be “restack capable”, which means you
can scan for channels quickly in a single block which
corresponds to your area?
Also, there was no mention in the article about UltraHD, despite mentioning about H.265 video compression.
As you may know, H.265 has been ratified by the ITU for
Ultra-HD transmission. In Australia, there are Ultra-HD
TVs which may support H.265 video compression (may
also support H.265 Ultra-HD) but the digital tuner may
not be DVB-T2 capable.
It is essential that Ultra-HD terrestrial broadcasts use
DVB-T2 and H.265 and that Ultra-HD receivers be capable
of such. Such capability needs to be a prerequisite for an
energy efficiency rating certification for Ultra-HD TVs. If
H.265 video compression and DVB-T2 becomes an Australian standard, it needs to encompass Ultra-HD as well.
DVB-T2 and H.265 could mean that unused data bandwidth from commercial broadcasters could be used by
terrestrial pay TV broadcasters and even wireless Internet
services (downlink). I think HD channels going down to SD
versions as per the article is a step in the wrong direction.
If VAST was to broadcast all channels in Ultra-HD,
DVB-S3 (if it exists and is probably still in the works) and
H.265 video compression would be essential.
Bryce Cherry,
via email.
Alan Hughes comments: a non-frame compatible stereo
scopic (3-D) 4K Ultra TV (4096 x 2160 x 50p) has an
uncompressed data rate of 6.6Gbit/s (Y, Pr, Pb) and using
H.265 compression produces a data rate of 41Mbit/s,
which is a full DVB-T2 Australian channel. I cannot see
a TV station switching off their secondary channels when
this program is transmitted. It would also mean that all
receivers will have to be DVB-T2/H.265 capable so that
those without a 4 K S3-D display will be able to watch the
program. The only programs worth this treatment would be
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Currently, all digital receivers start scanning on chanruns with no setup charges
nel 6 and finish at channel 69, with a jump from above
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past channel 51. Receivers made to Australian Standard
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each network. This applies where there is a good signal
manufacturing in 3 or 1 days
from a local translator and a poorer signal from the main
transmitter. The scan is only required once unless the
receiver is moved to a different coverage area.
It will take around two years after ratification for
commercial quantities of H.265 integrated circuits to be
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available to receiver manufacturers. The digital cinema
1(800)FPE-9060
(picture theatre) industry uses Ultra-HD which they call
4K. They are not using H.265 compression but a less aggressive compression.
Sony is selling 4K TVs but as with all the importers they
don’t tell you in the specifications what the tuner board is
capable of. No projectors contain tuners, so a 4K capable
set-top box will be required for 4K projectors and could
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SHUNT
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programs, ie, the primary channel (eg ABC1, SBS1, Seven,
find 100s of application in
Nine, etc). Unless transmission standards are changed,
battery chargers, solar
there will not be enough data available for a pair of HD
panel arrays and lab power
channels, hence the existing HD channels except SBSHD
supplies.
will have to change to SD. If all programs are MPEG-4
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Finally, VAST is paid for by the Commonwealth GovFor more details
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a similar program choice as the rest of Australia using
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terrestrial TV. There is no such thing as DVB-S3 and it is
SC
not on the drawing board.
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Silicon Chip Magazine Sept 2013
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siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 13
11/14/12 7
Speedometer
Head-Up Displays
By LEO SIMPSON
This readout from the OBDII-based head-up
display shows the speed, RPM (bargraph)
and fuel consumption. The fuel reading here
is just 1.8l/100km, achieved while coasting
on a trailing throttle in gear.
What’s available, the options & the pros & cons
There is no need to buy the latest Commodore or an up-market
European car in order to get a head-up digital display of your
speedometer. For around $100 or less, you can purchase an OBD or
GPS head-up display (HUD) which is easy to read and has the bonus
of being far more accurate than your vehicle’s own speedometer.
I
HAVE SEEN the light and it is good.
It is the digital image of my vehicle’s
speed, floating somewhere in front of
my windscreen. I no longer have to
avert my gaze from the road ahead
to check my speed: something I need
to do frequently to avoid the risk of
being booked in Sydney’s manifold
speed zones.
Of course, while I want to avoid
speed fines I also want to travel as
fast as is legally possible in any speed
zone. After all, why dawdle when you
can dash? So if traffic and road condi-
This GPS head-up display was purchased on eBay for around $100 and can
be powered via the supplied cable from either a USB interface (ie, in the car)
or a 12V accessory socket.
14 Silicon Chip
tions permit, I like to travel close to
the legal speed limit. Trouble is, if you
rely on your car’s speedometer, you
will almost always be travelling more
slowly than you need to.
Why is that? Because under Australian Design Rules, modern car speedometers must never indicate more than
the actual speed. But they can indicate
the actual speed optimistically by a
factor of 10% more plus 4km/h. So at
an actual speed of 60km/h, the indicated speed could ostensibly be anywhere
from 60km/h to 70km/h. Similarly, at
80km/h, the indicated speed could be
anywhere from 80km/h to 92km/h and
at 110km/h (the maximum legal speed
in most states), the indicated speed can
be anywhere up to 125km/h.
In practice, car speedometers are
rarely so wildly optimistic but on my
own 2004 Honda Accord, an actual
speed of 100km/h gives an indicated
reading of 107-108km/h. In these days
of fancy car electronics, this really
siliconchip.com.au
The GPS head-up display in action. A piece of film attached to the windscreen reflects the speed readout on the LED
displays. The reading here is 44km/h but note that the car’s speedo shows more than this because (a) it’s slightly optimistic
(ie, reads higher than the true speed) and (b) because the angle of the photo has introduced some parallax error.
does seem silly, especially as odometers are typically much more accurate
and appear to be within ±1% or 2%.
Of course, none of this is news to
anyone who uses satellite navigation
in their car. You can read your actual
speed, along with a lot of other navigational information on the display.
Many, if not most, smart phones now
on sale also have in-built satellite
navigation so there is no need to rely
on your car’s speedo when setting your
cruise control; just run the car up to
the legal speed as indicated on your
GPS and hit the button to set the cruise
control. Most other drivers on expressways now seem to do the same thing,
as do long-distance truck drivers.
The problem with the speed reading
on most GPS units, such as those made
by Garmin, Tom-Tom and Navman
etc, is that it is too tiny. You cannot
just glance at it to see the speed. And
while you’re peering at the GPS, your
attention is diverted from the road and
when you look back up, you might be
veering off into the incoming traffic! In
the meantime, your passenger is liable
to be seriously terrified!
Even if you do have GPS satellite
navigation in your car, a GPS head-up
speed display is even better. So resiliconchip.com.au
cently, I purchased one from eBay but
I have since discovered a local source
advertising another GPS head-up display in the NRMA publication, the
“Open Road” – see http://mypolaris.
com.au/hud/indexflash.html
Both work on the same principle.
Option 1: GPS HUD
In essence, the GPS head-up display
I purchased consists of a small plastic
case with three green LED 7-segment
displays. The unit is installed forward of the speedo binnacle on the
dashboard and tilted up so that the
reflected display is within your field of
vision but not so high as to be distracting when you are looking at the road
ahead. The LED displays are arranged
back to front and reversed in order so
that the reflection reads correctly.
The unit is powered from the car’s
cigarette lighter and that is a drawback
because inevitably you have a long
cable from the closest cigarette lighter
or accessory socket to the unit up on
the dash. The same comment applies
to any after-market GPS sat-nav unit
made by Tom-Tom, Garmin etc (unless you operate it from the internal
battery).
To improve the reflectivity of the
windscreen, a small piece of dark
plastic is arranged to improve the
contrast of the display. However, it is
quite difficult to install it in precisely
the right place in order for the reflected
reading to be centred in the display. In
my case, this is because it is a long way
from my eyes to the plastic piece on
the windscreen, about one metre, and
my arms are simply not long enough to
be able to carefully position the plastic
piece while viewing it from the normal
driving position.
The unit incorporates an LDR (lightdependent resistor) to sense ambient
light levels and reduce the display
brightness for night-time driving.
Display visibility is quite adequate
for driving at night and in overcast
conditions but suffers somewhat in
bright sunlight and especially if you
are wearing polarised sunglasses.
In use, the display appears to update
as often as about five times a second,
depending on whether the car is accelerating or slowing down. How accurate is it? We don’t really know but
we think that it is within ±1% + 1 digit.
In practice, when you are maintaining a constant speed on a flat section of
road, the reading fluctuates only very
September 2013 15
The iFOUND head-up display unit is available for around $75 and is supplied with a cable which plugs into the
vehicle’s OBDII socket. As well as speed, RPM and fuel consumption, it also has the option of displaying coolant
temperature or battery voltage (instead of the speed) at the touch of a button.
Option 2: OBDII HUD
The readout on the dash-mounted head-up display unit is a mirror image so that
is reads correctly when reflected off the darkened film attached to the windscreen
(note: this unit is also shown updside down).
slightly, say from 99km/h to 100km/h,
maybe several times a minute. It appears to fluctuate a lot more in hilly
country but then it is much harder to
maintain a constant speed.
The head-up display also reveals
that when you have cruise control
engaged, the speed does vary by quite a
bit; more than you might think and that
is apart from the normal over-speed
that you get with cruise control when
on a long down-hill slope.
Overall, the GPS head-up display
is a worthwhile addition. I find that I
only occasionally glance at the speedometer now, since the HUD is always
there and it is much more accurate
anyway.
16 Silicon Chip
However, there are drawbacks to the
GPS HUD. First, when you first start
up in the morning (or whenever), the
GPS can take quite a while to ‘acquire’
the satellites and give a valid speed
reading. During that time it just flashes
three dashes on the digits. If there is
heavy cloud cover, it can take up to
five minutes to give a speed reading.
Second, GPS doesn’t work at all in
tunnels or in city streets where there
are lots of tall buildings, so again all
you get is three flashing dashes on
the display. In the overall assessment
of the total human condition, this is
not a big problem but there is another
way and that is to use an OBD-derived
head-up display.
So having purchased the GPS HUD
above, I had a look on the internet for
a HUD based on OBDII signals. Lo and
behold, they are available and generally cheaper than the GPS-derived
units, to boot.
I duly plunked for an iFOUND unit
made by Founder Technology Group
Co Ltd, in China and available on eBay
for $75.69. This connects to the OBDII
socket found in virtually all modern
cars, typically positioned under the
dash to the right of the steering wheel
(ie, in right-hand drive cars; it’s the
opposite in left-hand drive cars).
You need to check whether your
vehicle has an OBDII socket before
you consider purchasing one of these
head-up display units.
OBDII stands for “on-board diagnostics, version two” and is a nowstandard vehicle interface designed
primarily to allow mechanics to check
and clear engine computer fault codes
and monitor vehicle operation in realtime for fault-finding and tuning. The
particular OBDII HUD I purchased decodes some of the data available on the
OBD socket to display speed in km/h,
fuel consumption in litres/100km and
engine RPM. It also has the option of
displaying coolant temperature or
battery voltage instead of the vehicle’s
speed at the touch of a button.
However, the overall display is
much more elaborate than the simple
GPS-derived unit discussed above.
Three large digits provide the speed
readout (or battery voltage or coolant
temperature) while three smaller digits above give the fuel consumption.
siliconchip.com.au
Engine RPM is displayed in a curved
bargraph which changes from green
to red at the top of the rev range. Plus
there are a few other symbols for the
alarm functions (speed, coolant and
battery voltage), gear shift points etc.
Again the display is inverted and
transposed left to right, so that the
windscreen reflection can be read.
The iFOUND unit comes in two
parts: the HUD itself and a metre-long
flat cable with a plug which you fit into
the car’s OBDII socket. The unit has a
slide switch to turn it on or off and four
buttons which you can use to change
the display mode, set alarm levels and
set gear shift points etc.
Installation is similar to the GPS
HUD reviewed above. The HUD unit is
positioned forward of the instrument
binnacle and arranged to reflect off the
windscreen. A piece of semi-transparent plastic is provide for this purpose
(as with the GPS HUD). The cable
connection is much more convenient
and neater than the GPS unit because
it effectively runs up from under the
dash (near the steering wheel) and can
be run between the door and the side
of the instrument panel.
Again the OBD unit has an LDR to
sense ambient light but in this case,
while display brightness is adequate
at night, it is anaemic in sunlight.
As an aside, when driving at night
I noticed that the display brightness
was fluctuating and I finally twigged
that the unit was dimming the display
each time I passed underneath a bright
street lamp. This is annoying, to say
the least.
I fixed it by disabling the LDR. I
disassembled the unit and measured
the LDR in bright light and darkness.
It varied between about 12kΩ in darkness to less than 4kΩ in bright light.
I soldered a 4.7kΩ resistor across the
LDR and now the brightness is constant. Possibly, it is slightly brighter
than ideal at night-time but it’s still
too dim in bright sunlight.
Using it
At start-up, the OBDII-based unit
initially displays ‘HUD’ and ‘101’ and
then briefly flashes the whole display,
including the RPM bargraph. As soon
as the car moves, it gives the speed
and the fuel consumption which is
very high initially but then drops to
more reasonable figures as you build
up speed.
I was able to compare speed readsiliconchip.com.au
Driving with the iFOUND OBDII-based head-up display. The instantaneous fuel
consumption readings give continuous feedback on your driving style and help
you to save fuel.
ings from the GPS and OBD HUD units
and the differences were interesting.
The OBD unit seemed to update at
about the same rate as the GPS unit
and was generally within 1km/h. So if
the OBD unit came up to 60km/h (say),
the GPS unit would show 60 and then
maybe flick to 61km/h. In other words,
the OBD display is more accurate than
the vehicle’s speedometer but slightly
pessimistic with respect to the GPS
reading.
At higher speeds, the units diverge
more. At around 80-90km/h, the GPS
reading was typically 2km/h higher
than the OBD unit. At the time of
writing, I had not driven on any of
Sydney’s toll-ways or freeways so I
cannot comment on whether the trend
worsens at higher speeds.
So while the OBDII HUD is more
accurate than my vehicle’s speedo,
I will always have to allow for the
discrepancy between it and the GPS
reading in setting the cruise control.
However, I came to the conclusion
that the OBDII unit is probably even
more useful because of its fuel consumption readings (my 2004 Honda
Accord lacks this facility), since it
gives you continuous feedback about
your driving style.
If you step on the gas as you move
away from the lights, the instantaneous
fuel gulp can easily rise well above 45
litres/100km. Take it more easily and
it might start at 12 litres/100km and
then drop to less than 4 litres/100km
as you gingerly caress the throttle to
keep up with the traffic.
Better still, if you coast as much as
possible on a trailing throttle (ie, foot
off the pedal), the reading will drop
to zero provided the speed is above
about 50km/h (in my Honda Accord).
This indicates injector cut-off and it is
surprising just how far you can travel
in normal traffic while not consuming
any fuel at all. Such information is vital if you are concerned about reducing
fuel consumption.
It confirms my habit of driving ‘far
ahead’ to anticipate traffic hold-ups,
red lights, lane blockages and so on.
This and the continuous fuel reading
can be very effective. It becomes a bit of
a contest but I would never go so far as
‘hyper-milers’ who can obtain extreme
results by coasting with the engine off
for long distances, tail-gating trucks
and buses and other driving behaviour
which can be extremely hazardous.
Incidentally, when the car is stationary and the motor is idling, the fuel
consumption reading changes to litres/
hour and is typically 0.7 litres/hour
when the engine has reached normal
operating temperature.
So I regard the OBDII HUD as more
useful than the GPS unit, even though
I would like the display to be brighter.
But there is a third way, and Nicholas
Vinen takes up the story on the following page . . .
September 2013 17
Option 3: using a smart phone
& an OBDII-To-Bluetooth Adaptor
By NICHOLAS VINEN
A typical OBDII-to-Bluetooth adaptor.
They’re available via websites such as
eBay and Ali Express for around $10.
It plugs into the card’s OBD port and
you can pair it with a tablet or smart
phone.
If your car lacks a digital speedo, you can make up for it with a smart phone,
an OBDII-to-Bluetooth adaptor and some free software. You can choose from a
range of display options and arrange them on the screen to suit your tastes.
This third option involves using a
smart phone. All you need is a lowcost OBDII-to-Bluetooth adaptor and a
dashboard/windscreen mount for your
phone – which you may already have
anyway, if you use the GPS on your
phone for navigation while driving.
It also gives you access to data from
the engine and body computer such as
speed, RPM, engine load, coolant temperature and battery voltage which can
be displayed on the phone’s screen.
In fact, if your phone has built-in
GPS, you can get the vehicle speed and
GPS speed side-by-side. On our test
vehicle, we found that they matched
very closely when in a constant-speed
cruise on level ground; typically
within less than 1km/h of each other.
Note that while GPS speed is shown
with one decimal place, the OBD-II
speed appears to be rounded to the
nearest integer.
Where to get the dongle
The required dongle (OBDII-toThe OBD port
is found under
the dashboard,
typically just to
the right of the
steering column
(in a right-hand
drive car). Power
for the unit is
derived directly
from the OBD
port.
18 Silicon Chip
Bluetooth) is inexpensive and is available from multiple sources via websites such as eBay and Ali Express.
For example, we bought ours from
“Shenzhen win-win Electronics
Technology Co Ltd” for the princely
sum of US$8.50 with free postage via
China Post; see http://www.aliexpress.
com/item/Latest-Version-V2-1-SuperMini-ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD2-Scanner-ELM-327-Bluetooth-For-Multibrands/808159089.html
Note that China Post can be slow;
Hong Kong post is a faster and more
reliable option, if available.
Mounting it
We used a goose-neck windscreen
mount from Jaycar (Cat. HS9002) to
place the phone right in the bottom
corner of the windscreen. While this
isn’t quite as good as a HUD, it’s certainly more convenient to glance at
than a dash-mounted speedometer
and you still have the benefit of a
digital read-out which some people
find much easier to interpret than a
needle on a dial.
One problem is that virtually all
smart phones have shiny screens and
if driving in bright sunlight, reflections
of the driver’s shirt or objects behind
the car can obscure the display. But
despite this, the read-out generally
remains legible under most lighting
conditions and is especially good at
night.
As well as the phone and the Bluesiliconchip.com.au
This view shows a Samsung Galaxy Tab2 tablet paired with an OBDII-toBluetooth adaptor and running the free Torque Lite app from the Google Play
Store. You can display a variety gauges and graphs in various forms using
information derived from the OBD port.
tooth OBDII dongle, which plugs in
under the dashboard (and is so small
that you can hardly notice it’s there),
you need software running on the
phone to communicate with the car
and interpret and display the data
(an “app”).
siliconchip.com.au
We downloaded a free version of a
program called “Torque Lite” (from
Google Play) which works on most
Android phones and tablets. iPhone/
iPad users will have to use different
software such as DashCommand, although this isn’t free.
Torque Lite works reasonably well
although it has a few bugs and it drains
the phone’s battery pretty quickly
when in use. That’s partly due to the
fact that the screen must stay on the
whole time. There’s a non-free version
too, which costs a few dollars and has
more features.
The battery on my phone (an HTC
Velocity 4G) lasts about three hours
with Torque Lite running so for anything but a very long commute, you
just need to recharge the phone overnight. That means no cables – great!
For longer trips though, it will be
necessary to run a charging cable from
the car’s accessory power or cigarette
lighter socket to keep the power on for
the duration of the drive.
There are a few other little issues
with using a smart-phone as a speedo.
For a start, if you happen to get a
phone call while driving, you lose
the Torque Lite display on the screen
(at least temporarily) and you have to
revert back to using your car’s regular
speedometer – even if you are using a
hands-free system (and yes, hands-free
Bluetooth still works while you are
accessing the OBDII dongle).
Also, if you have a screen lock
enabled, this may activate after the
phone call and you’ll have to wait
until stopped to unlock the screen (we
found this happened inconsistently,
perhaps depending on the length of the
call). That could perhaps be avoided
by using a dedicated iPhone or Android device but that’s a much more
expensive proposition.
Also, we once had the phone spon-
September 2013 19
Excerpt from ADR
5.2.6. the test instrumentation
used for measuring the true
vehicle speed shall be accurate
to ± 0.5 per cent;
5.2.6.1. the surface of a test track
when used shall be flat and dry,
and provide sufficient adhesion;
5.2.6.2. if a roller dynamometer
is used for the test, the diameter
of the roller should be at least
0.4 m;
5.3.The speed indicated shall not
be less than the true speed of
the vehicle. At the test speeds
specified in paragraph 5.2.5.
above [40km/h, 80km/h and
120km/h], there shall be the
following relationship between
the speed displayed (V1) and the
true speed (V2).
This screen lets you choose the display format for each readout, eg, dial, graph
or digital display. You can customise and add displays to multiple pages.
0 ≤ (V1– V2) ≤ 0.1 V2 + 4 km/h
This is where you use Torque Lite to select what you want to display. There’s an
impressive list of data to choose from (much more than shown here).
taneously reboot while we were using
it which was a bit annoying. Plus you
may need to clean the screen before
clipping the phone into the dashmount holder as greasy fingerprints
on the touch-screen (perhaps more
accurately termed “smudge-screen”)
can interfere with readability.
By the way, the Bluetooth adaptor
runs off power drawn directly from
the OBDII socket and while we haven’t
measured just how much current it
draws, it should be somewhere in the
range of about 5-50mA while operating. We left it plugged into the car over
a long weekend and the battery still
had plenty of charge to start so you can
pretty much leave it plugged in all the
time except if you will be leaving the
car to sit for a week or more (or unless
your battery is on the way out).
Removing or re-installing it is a
pretty quick and easy exercise but if
you do that too often, you may wear
SC
out the connector.
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20 Silicon Chip
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Graphene
. . . a new super material 300
times stronger than steel
Above: a computer-generated atomic image of graphene showing the extensive 2-dimensional honeycomb-like structure.
The shape of the structure is often compared with chicken wire. Image courtesy Sébastien Sauvage, CNRS.
Graphene has been billed as a new super-strong, super-thin exotic
material with a vast range of exciting applications in electronics,
materials science and so on. But what is it? We asked Dr David
Maddison to investigate and report.
G
RAPHENE IS the thinnest possible material. It is actually a
single 2-dimensional atomic layer of
pure carbon – only one atom thick!
Image of graphene through an
aperture showing a single layer
(central stripe) and two layers (right
side) with no graphene on the left
for comparison. Each layer absorbs
2.3% of incident light. Image courtesy
University of Manchester.
22 Silicon Chip
It has ultra-high tensile strength (300
times stronger than A36 structural
steel at 130 gigapascals versus 400
megapascals), extremely low electrical resistance (almost like superconductivity under certain circumstances but at room temperature),
very high stiffness whilst being able
to be stretched by one fifth of its
length before breaking, better thermal
conductivity than copper and it is so
impermeable that not even helium
atoms can pass through it.
Graphene is as an “allotrope” of
carbon, like diamond and graphite,
because it is made of the same pure
carbon element but it has a different
atomic structure. In recent years, many
other allotropes of carbon have also
been discovered and these include
buckminsterfullerene (“bucky balls”),
amorphous and glassy carbon, lonsdaleite (hexagonal diamond, different
from common diamond) and carbon
nanotubes. It is quite likely that others
will also be discovered in the future.
Most of these new allotropes have
unique and very useful properties.
Graphene can be thought of as a
single atomic layer of the more familiar
3-dimensional graphite. In fact, this
is an excellent example of an ordinary common material, carbon, being
turned into an exotic and valuable
material (much like silicon from silica
or beach sand).
Incredibly light
Since graphene is a sheet only one
atomic layer thick it is incredibly
light. A single square metre of material
weighs only 0.77 milligrams while an
area the size of a tennis court would
weigh just over 200 milligrams or one
fifth of a gram. By contrast, if you used
the same paper as used for printing
this magazine (about 60 gsm), a tennis
court-sized sheet would weigh about
16 kilograms.
Despite its thinness, graphene can
actually be seen with the naked eye
because it is not completely transparsiliconchip.com.au
ent; it absorbs around 2.3% of the light
that falls on it. This makes it visible
enough to see.
Not only can graphene be seen with
the naked eye, it is so strong that it
can be picked up as a sheet. Indeed
its strength is so high it is thought to
represent the theoretical upper limit
of how strong materials can possibly
be. A sheet of multiple layers of graphene just 0.1mm thick (about the
thickness of plastic cling wrap) would
theoretically require a force of 2000kg
to puncture it with a sharp implement.
Much work is now under way to
make large sheets of the material so that
it can be used in practical applications
where such high strength is required.
For large-scale applications such as
this, it is likely that the graphene would
be fabricated as a composite material
much like carbon-fibre composites.
In addition to being extremely
strong, graphene is also extremely stiff.
A flake of graphene just 10 microns
long (one hundredth of a millimetre,
which is considered long for such a
thin material) and one atomic layer
thick will support itself without bending over when placed on edge vertically. This is equivalent to a 100-metre
long sheet of paper supporting itself if
it were placed on edge.
Being only one atomic layer thin,
you might reasonably expect graphene
to be totally invisible but what opacity
it does have is related to the fact that
the electrons in graphene behave as if
they have no mass, unlike electrons in
normal materials. In fact, the opacity of
graphene allows the direct measure of
one of the most fundamental physical
constants of the universe, known as
the “fine structure constant”, which
would normally require a very complicated apparatus to measure (the
speed of light is another example of a
fundamental constant).
Miniature supercapacitors printed on substrate using the LightScribe method.
Photo courtesy University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA).
The 2.3% absorption of light by
graphene equates very simply to the
number π times α, where α is the fine
structure constant. That it can be
measured so simply using graphene
is considered quite remarkable by
researchers in the field.
The European Union consider graphene to be so important that they
have established a Future Emerging
Technologies flagship with research
funding of one billion Euro over 10
years to commercialise graphene technologies – see http://www.grapheneflagship.eu/GF/index.php
Graphene is an extremely good electrical conductor as electrons can travel
virtually without impediment within
its structure. It is also an extremely
good thermal conductor; better than
Left: the atomic structure of graphite.
Each ball represents a carbon
atom and the lines represent the
bonds between each atom. Note the
layered, 3-dimensional structure
which in reality extends indefinitely
in accordance with the size of the
graphite crystal. There is no strong
bonding between the layers, only
weak bonds and this accounts for
graphite’s “slipperiness” and its use as
a lubricant among other applications.
Graphene is made of a single such
layer. Image courtesy David Darling.
siliconchip.com.au
copper. Indeed, one of its proposed
applications is for cooling of semiconductor devices.
Bizarre properties
Some graphene properties even
verge on the bizarre. It is impermeable to nearly all materials, including helium which is capable of even
diffusing through glass (the ease at
which helium diffuses through mat
erials is why helium party balloons
deflate so rapidly). However, one material known to be capable of passing
through graphene is water.
This is analogous to a chain link
fence not allowing a tennis ball to pass
through but allowing a basketball to
do so. This property has even been
proposed for use in a method to purify
alcoholic spirits at room temperature
without having to heat them as in a
normal distillation process (graphene
oxide is the material used in that application) and in water purification
applications.
How to make graphene
In principle, it is easy to make small
amounts of graphene. At the time
graphene was characterised in 2004,
it was made by bringing a piece of
adhesive tape in contact with a piece
of graphite and then examining what
had been removed with an optical
September 2013 23
A piece of graphite
and a sticky tape
dispenser was all
it took to make
graphene in 2004.
Note the piece
of tape with the
graphite residue.
Some of this residue
will be in the form
of graphene. Image
source: Dr David
Maddison.
microscope or with powerful electron
and scanning tunnelling microscopes.
A video of this process can be seen at
http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/
multimedia/47356
The adhesive tape method has now
been superseded by another simple
fabrication method. In 2012, a group
at University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) made graphene using the
LightScribe feature of a consumergrade DVD drive. A water-based solution of graphite oxide is coated onto a
plastic substrate and inserted into the
DVD drive and then struck with a laser
from the drive.
The oxygen atoms are removed from
the graphite oxide coating by the heat
of the laser and graphene is the result.
Incidentally, this method is also used
to make graphene by some very enthusiastic amateur scientists who have
posted some YouTube videos on the
process and even made some devices.
It is also possible that you have even
inadvertently made graphene yourself. Although a fairly new material
in terms of its discovery, naming and
characterisation, graphene commonly
results as a byproduct of everyday processes. For example, every time you
write with a graphite pencil it is likely
you will make some tiny pieces of it.
It can also be created during combustion processes, along with other forms
of carbon.
There are many other methods of
prroducing graphene. One method is
by chemical vapour deposition (CVD)
onto various materials such as silicon
This diagram shows the atomic structure of a solar cell made with one layer of
molybdenum disulphide on top and one layer of graphene below. Source: MIT
News Service.
24 Silicon Chip
carbide or metals such as copper to
make so-called epitaxial layers. It is a
similar process to that used to make
various semiconductor devices from
silicon. Such graphene layers may
either be left in place or transferred
elsewhere. This method is regarded by
some as the likely route to mass production. Other methods can produce
powdery material in a chamber which
is then collected.
Historical precedents
Like many “new” concepts and
processes, there are often historically
relevant events that lead to a major
discovery and graphene is no exception. As early as 1840, C. Schafheutl
exfoliated graphite and may have
made graphene.
In 1859, Sir Benjamin Collins Brodie
was aware that graphite oxide that
had had its oxygen removed to make
pure graphite yielded extremely thin
crystals, noting: “These crystals, when
examined with the microscope, are
perfectly transparent, and exhibit
beautiful colours by the agency of polarized light”. You can read his original
scientific paper at http://www.jstor.org/
stable/view/108699
There were also other studies on
graphite oxide after that and in 1947
Professor Philip Wallace undertook
extensive theoretical studies of the
2-dimensional form of graphite (which
was not yet called graphene) in order
to better understand the properties of
3-dimensional graphite.
There were also many studies on
carbon thin films, including graphite
of just a few layers thick, and electron
microscope images of such material were produced as early as 1948.
Hanns-Peter Boehm and co-workers
were the first to specifically identify
single-layer thick graphene sheets in
1961 and they published the results
in 1962. However, they never thought
of this as a discovery but merely an
extension of much earlier work.
The characterisation of graphene
resulted in the award of the 2010 Nobel
prize in physics to Andre Geim and
Konstantin Novoselov of the University of Manchester. The citation was
“for ground-breaking experiments
regarding the 2-dimensional material
graphene”.
Applications and devices
Because of its array of unique properties, many different applications
siliconchip.com.au
have been proposed for graphene. A
number of prototype devices have
been made, some of which are now
discussed.
The LightScribe fabrication method
has been used by UCLA to fabricate
supercapacitors. Supercapacitors are
different from normal capacitors in
that they have much higher capacitance per unit volume and have much
higher energy density. Because of this,
they are being considered as battery
replacements in personal electronic
devices and electric vehicles (and for
cars with the start/stop feature). They
are better than normal electrochemical
batteries because they can be charged
and discharged much more rapidly.
Graphene supercapacitors
For supercapacitors, graphene is
important for (a) enabling the creation of electrodes with a much greater
surface area and thus electron storage
capacity and (b) enabling an increase
of the specific energy density of the
supercapacitor. In one example, a
graphene-based supercapacitor had
a specific energy density of around
86Wh/kg at room temperature and
136Wh/kg at 80°C.
This compares favourably with lith
ium ion batteries with a typical energy
density of 100-125Wh/kg but with
the added advantage that they can be
charged in seconds or minutes while
batteries take many hours. In addition,
supercapacitors can deliver energy
much faster than batteries.
UCLA have developed a method using conventional lithography, deposition and etching processes along with
a sacrificial substrate to mass-produce
high-frequency graphene transistors.
Switching frequencies up to 427GHz
were achieved. And at the University
of Manchester, individual graphene
transistors have been developed with
switching frequencies of up to 1.5THz
(1500GHz).
The applications of such devices include computation, communications,
high-speed chemical sensors and, if
such a transistor could be made to
work at 3THz (sub-millimetre waves),
detection and production of the lowfrequency side of the far-infrared
radiation band.
An antenna made of graphene strips
10-100nm wide and one micron long
that would transmit in the terahertz
frequency range has been proposed
by a team at the Georgia Institute of
siliconchip.com.au
An illustration depicting the mass-production of graphene transistors. Image
courtesy University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA).
Technology. Such an antenna could
transfer data at one terabit per second
at distance of one metre and up to 100
Terabits per second at range of one
centimetre.
Nanyang Technological University
in Singapore has developed a graphene
-based image sensor for cameras which
is 1000 times more light sensitive than
current state-of-the-art sensors and
sensitive over a broad spectrum of
light. It also uses 10 times less energy
than present sensors.
Graphene tennis racket
The first commercial application of
graphene as an engineering material is
by HEAD who have developed a tennis
racket made from graphene-reinforced
epoxy. Few details of its exact construction are known, however. Bulk
graphene suitable for engineering applications is still extremely expensive
although some grades can be obtained
for around US$200 per kilogram.
Samsung have recently been awarded a patent for flexible touch screens
utilising graphene for various elements. Graphene can potentially
replace indium tin oxide, which is
expensive and inflexible, as a transparent electrode material. It has also
been used as an electrode material in
flexible organic light emitting diode
(OLED) displays.
Researchers at Rice University
have recently reported the fabrication of electrodes for lithium batteries
made from a mixture of tin oxide and
graphene nano-ribbons. The nanoribbons are made by splitting carbon
nanotubes and opening them. This
new electrode material may solve a
significant problem of lithium batteries which is that the lithium causes
electrodes to degrade over time.
September 2013 25
A flexible touch screen developed at
the University of Manchester in the
UK. Image courtesy University of
Manchester.
the portable device for more electronics or battery capacity.
Graphene has been proposed as an
electrode material on solar cells. Existing solar cells typically use indiumtin-oxide (ITO) as a transparent conductor but this material is expensive
and brittle. Graphene has a high level
of transparency and is also flexible. It
could be used as an electrode on either
conventional silicon solar cells or flexible organic or thin-film solar cells.
In fact, such an application was
recently demonstrated at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT)
and the performance was found to be
equivalent to ITO. A further development at MIT is the production of solar
cells just two atomic layers thick.
One layer is composed of graphene
and the other layer is molybdenum
disulphide.
The cell is about 1-2% efficient;
poor compared to conventional cells
with efficiencies of 15-20% but greater
efficiencies might be possible by stacking multiple layers together. While
this concept has been successfully
demonstrated, manufacturing such
devices is a major challenge.
Integrated circuit
A photo of IBM’s graphene integrated
circuit. The enlargement at top shows
the graphene transistor component.
Image courtesy IBM.
Apple recently received a patent
for graphene as a heat dissipation
material. Graphite or graphite paste is
used as a heat dissipation material in
some mobile electronic devices. Apple
proposes to replace the graphite with
graphene which could be made much
thinner than graphite because it is a
much better thermal conductor.
Apple says that replacing a 30 micron (0.03mm) thick layer of graphite
with graphene will free space inside
26 Silicon Chip
In 2011, IBM researchers fabricated
the world’s first integrated circuit
using graphene as a component.
The circuit worked as a broadband
frequency mixer and could operate
up to frequencies of 10GHz and at
temperatures to 125°C.
Graphene can also be used to make
conductive inks and coatings as well
as act as a filler in plastics to make
them more conductive.
A space elevator is a proposed space
transportation system consisting of
an extremely strong cable or ribbon
(known as a “tether”) which is attached to Earth in the region of the
equator at one end and with a counterweight at the other end beyond geostationary orbit (35,800km altitude). A
climbing vehicle would crawl along
the ribbon to transport materials into
space. Nano-engineered carbon-based
materials such as graphene and carbon
nanotubes are among the few ultrastrong materials that may be suitable
for such an application.
Hyperbole
Like all new materials and technologies, graphene has been subject to its
fair share of hype. The different stages
A HEAD Graphene Speed Pro 18/20
Racket made by HTM Sport GmbH,
Austria.
of expectations and reality for new
technologies is best illustrated by the
Gartner Hype-Cycle (see Wikipedia).
Many announcements related to graphene have been based more on hype
than reality.
There is no doubt, however, that graphene is an important new material. It
is the first bulk 2-dimensional material. It has many possibilities but there
are also many challenges to overcome
before its use becomes widespread in
electronics and other areas.
Having said that, as mentioned
above, there is now one commercial
product on the market, the HEAD tennis racquet. Undoubtedly, many more
SC
will follow.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 27
Review: Bush TR82DAB
DAB+/FM/AM/LW radio
By LEO SIMPSON
Elsewhere in this issue we have a Vintage Radio article on the
restoration of a Bush TR82C transistor portable radio which was
introduced in the early 1960s. It became a highly-regarded classic
and several reproductions have been made over the decades.
Now there is the Bush TR82DAB which looks virtually identical
to the 1959 original by Ogle Design but now incorporates modern
circuitry with FM and DAB+ reception.
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
. . . classic 1960s
styling, modern
DAB+ circuitry
I
PURCHASED this radio for my
wife for use in the kitchen. Since
then, it has been universally admired
by all our visitors as a ‘retro’ radio
which looks really ‘cool’.
Little do they know that this radio
has long been regarded as a classic. It
looks as though some of the original
moulds may have been used for the
exterior of the case, at least, but the
internals are quite different, as can be
seen by comparing the photos in this
article with those in the Vintage Radio
column in this issue.
The original Bush TR82C only featured AM reception on the broadcast
(MW or medium wave) and LW (long
wave) bands. This TR82DAB model
is the only DAB+ radio available in
Australia which features AM as well
as FM stereo reception (NB: the Marantz NA7004 Network Audio Player,
as reviewed in the January 2013 issue,
also has AM/FM/DAB+ but it is a far
more expensive hifi program source.
The TR82DAB is also one of the few
DAB+ radios which can be powered
dirtectly from the mains supply (ie, no
plugpack) as well as an internal battery
pack consisting of six C cells to provide
9V DC. The virtue of having AM & FM
reception is that you can take the Bush
radio on a trip or a picnic where DAB+
reception is not available and still be
able to get most of the radio programs
that you prefer to listen to.
Having said that, most people who
do not possess a DAB+ radio do not
realise that many more stations are
available than the sum of all the AM
and FM stations broadcasting in a
particular city. For example, DAB+
includes the digital radio stations from
the ABC and SBS networks which can
be received on most digital TVs and
set-top boxes.
This radio is much larger than many
DAB+ radios on the market, with
overall dimensions of 335mm wide,
270mm high (including the handle)
siliconchip.com.au
The dial-scale on the TR82DAB is a replica of the original TR82C design, with
European station markings. A modern digital readout (LCD) on the top of the set
shows the band selected, the tuned frequency and the signal strength, plus other
useful information.
and about 90mm deep. With batteries
installed it weighs about 2.3kg, so it
is not a lightweight.
For tuning the FM, AM and LW
bands, there is a hand-span dial
which is reasonably straightforward
to use because it does have reduction
gearing. All the other controls are in a
recessed panel at the top of the cabinet,
underneath the handle which looks as
though it is supposed to retract onto
the case, but it doesn’t.
There are two thumbwheel knobs for
volume and tone and the volume knob
also doubles as the on/off control. Four
pushbuttons select MW (AM), LW, FM
or DAB+ operation. The DAB+ station
information is displayed in a small
LCD panel which is backlit in blue for
about 20 seconds after one of the associated 12 buttons has been pushed.
After that, the back light goes out but
you can still read the information
provided you are in a well-lit room.
The 12 buttons are labelled auto,
menu, display, shift, select, > and <,
while the rest are station presets. Ten
DAB+ stations can be stored, to be
retrieved at the push of the relevant
preset button or two. When a DAB
station is being received, you can push
the display button to show the station
information such as frequency, bit rate
and signal error. All these functions
work quite well and are reasonably
intuitive.
On the rear panel is a socket for
the 2-pin mains cord which must be
unplugged from the radio if you want
to operate from the internal batteries.
Other than that, there is a centrally
mounted screw which can be removed
so that the whole rear panel can be
slid down to reveal the battery compartment.
Batteries
You might note that I have fitted
the set with standard carbon-zinc C
cells, although alkaline cells would
no doubt give far superior life. Battery
life is important because I found that
after not many hours of use, the radio
would operate satisfactorily on FM or
AM but refused to work on DAB+. So
clearly it needs a fresh battery pack
to work well.
It would have been preferable to
be able to fit rechargeable cells to the
radio but unfortunately, they would
have to be removed for recharging.
Since the radio has an internal mains
transformer and DC supply, it would
seem that the designers could have
easily provided for the option of automatically recharging the cells. So
why not?
Once the radio is out of warranty,
it would be tempting to make up a
rechargeable battery pack with sub-C
NiMH cells and with trickle charging
from the internal supply when mains
power is available.
The radio’s on/off switch only operates in the low-voltage DC supply rail
so the mains transformer is permanently powered while ever it is plugged in
and switched on at the wall. Standby
September 2013 29
The rear of the case (left) carries a 2-pin mains socket and a telescopic whip antenna for listening to DAB+ and FM
broadcasts. Undoing the large central screw allows the rear cover to be removed to access the battery compartment.
power consumption is less than one
watt; about 880 milliwatts. When operating normally, power consumption
from the 230VAC supply is typically
around 4W or 5W, ranging up to over
7W when you have it really blaring.
Running from batteries (giving 9V
DC), the current drain when in AM
or FM mode is typically around 50-60
milliamps but when switched over to
DAB+, the current rises to between
240mA and over 400mA when the
volume is turned up. With that level
of power consumption, it is fairly
evident that the battery life will be
relatively short.
Inside workings
Having removed the rear panel,
you will find that nothing is revealed
of the radio’s internal workings. To
reveal that, you need to remove umpteen deeply recessed screws and the
front-mounted dial. Naturally, I could
not resist the temptation to do so (after
all, I wanted a photo or two) but it is
not easy to reassemble it. Be warned;
unless you need to gain access, leave
it well alone.
Anyway, inside the set is a large PCB
with lots of surface-mount devices. I
could see the ferrite rod, the dial cord
arrangement and some of the other
details but I chickened out at the suggestion that I remove the PCB assembly
30 Silicon Chip
to get more photos. After all, I needed
to return the radio to my wife in good
operating condition and with no signs
that any meddling had occurred!
The radio has a whip antenna which
needs to be vertical and extended to
its full length of 580mm for best reception on DAB+ which has vertically
polarised transmissions at just over
200MHz. But this length is nowhere
near optimum for best reception on
FM transmissions which range from
88-108MHz. This means that FM reception may not be quite as noise-free
as it might be if it had a longer whip
antenna. In metropolitan areas, that
probably won’t matter.
For AM (MW & LW) reception, the
Bush radio has a ferrite-rod antenna
which appears to give good reception
of both local and more distant stations.
Sound quality
What about the sound quality? I
have already commented in the past
that DAB+ sound is not as good as it
could because the data rates used by
most stations are 64kb/s or less, with
only a couple of stations using 80kb/s.
Well, the problem is that the Bush only
has one loudspeaker which is about
95mm in diameter.
Yes, it is only mono so that as far as
listening to it as a normal radio, you
can have all stations in one-dimen-
sional monophonic sound and while
it is reasonably pleasant it is no rival
to a Bose radio. As you might expect,
there is minimal bass and not a great
deal of treble; it is pleasant but not hifi.
I should state, though, that it still
sounds better than most other DAB+
radios which typically have smaller
speakers again and they are also usually mono to boot.
Fortunately, the TR82DAB does
have two 3.5mm stereo jack sockets
at the right-hand side of the cabinet
and these enable you to listen to earphones or headphones or you can feed
its stereo line-level signals to an external stereo amplifier and loudspeakers.
In this mode, first impressions are that
the sound quality is quite good. DAB+
reception is generally cleaner and
more noise-free than any equivalent
stations on the FM or AM bands.
However, on closer listening, switching between FM and DAB+, I have
to say that DAB+ sounds more “restricted” and somehow lacking the
finer detail of FM, especially when
comparing the fine music stations. That
is after allowing for the fact that the
background hiss on FM can add to the
impression of more treble. Apparent
bass output is better than the internal
speaker but there doesn’t appear to be
much output below 100Hz or so.
Finally, I should state that the DAB+
siliconchip.com.au
is consistently much cleaner and better
overall than AM reception, provided
you have reasonable signal strength;
if not, it will periodically drop out or
just mute itself.
Performance measurements
We do not have facilities for measurement of DAB+ performance so we
were restricted to limited measurements on the AM and FM bands.
Nor does the radio have any external
antenna connections so any measurements we we did were those with
signals fed into the extendable whip
antenna.
Going to AM mode first, it was difficult to get any sort of signal into the radio but we did manage to measure the
overall audio bandwidth. No surprises
there; it is actually a bit worse than the
normal mediocre bog-standard AM
response: ie, 100Hz to 2.5kHz at the
-6dB points. There was little point in
trying to measure harmonic distortion,
signal-to-noise ratio or anything else
since the degree of coupling into the
ferrite rod antenna from our signal
generator was obviously very poor.
On FM, we were able to do better.
While we were not able to do sensitivity measurements, we were able to
measure mono signal to noise ratio at
63dB while stereo signal-to-noise ratio
was just a few decibels worse which
is quite commendable really.
Total harmonic distortion (mono)
was typically around 0.5%, though rising markedly in the bass region below
100Hz. Frequency response is certainly
much better than AM, as you would
hope, but still well short of a good FM
stereo tuner in the days of yore. With
respect to 1kHz, the response is about
+3dB at 5kHz, 0dB at 8kHz and -3dB
at 10kHz. Below 1kHz, the response
tapers to -6dB at 100Hz and then rolls
off at 12dB octave below that.
Considering that the Bush radio
is using up-to-the-minute circuitry
for its DAB+ reception, it is a little
disappointing that the rest of its performance is fairly mediocre by comparison; it could so easily have been
much better for possibly only a dollar
or two in manufacturing cost. Still, so
much consumer equipment these days
is even more mediocre.
The digital readout & all the controls except for
the AM/LW/FM tuning wheel are in a recessed
panel at the top of the cabinet.
This is the view inside the unit with the front cover removed. Most of the
parts are mounted on a single large PCB.
Conclusion
Overall, I have to say that the Bush
TRD82DAB radio is an attractive unit
and its performance is perfectly suited
siliconchip.com.au
to the vast majority of consumers. They
will “love it”. Further information can
be obtained from the local distributor,
Bush Australia at www.bushaustralia.
com.au It is well worth shopping
SC
around for the best price.
September 2013 31
Speedo
Corrector, Mk.3
By JOHN CLARKE
Correct your car’s speedo after swapping
the wheels, gearbox or differential
If you have swapped your car’s instrument panel, gearbox or differential
with one from a different vehicle, your speedometer and odometer may
no longer be correct. The same thing applies if you have fitted wheels or
tyres with a different diameter. The solution is to use our updated Speedo
Corrector which can increase or decrease the indicated speedometer
reading. It operates from 12V or 24V DC and is simple to set up.
I
F YOU HAVE made any of the
aforementioned modifications to
your vehicle, you will almost certainly
need to correct the speedometer and
odometer readings.
The Speedo Corrector can adjust
your vehicle’s speedometer to show
the correct road speed. It will work
with analog or digital speedometers
that use a frequency signal for speed
sensing. It will not work with older
speedometers that use a mechanical
cable unless you make a new speed
pick-up with Hall Effect sensor and
Main Features
• Allows alteration of speedo reading so that it reads faster or slower over a wide range
• Caters for three input signal types
• Automatic or manual set-up of input signal type
• LED indication of valid speed sensor signal being received during set up
• 12V or 24V operation (set using a link)
• Adjustable response rate to compensate for speedo lag
and output
• LEDilicon
32 S
Chipvoltage rate adjustment indication
magnets on a driveshaft. Nor will it
work with some the latest vehicles that
have speedometers that connect to the
Controller Area Network (CAN) bus instead of using a dedicated speedometer
signal. CAN bus is a communications
system between sensors and instruments in the vehicle.
The Speedo Corrector intercepts
the signal from the speed sensor and
then increases or reduces its frequency
before it is applied to the speedometer.
Note that the Speedo Corrector will
not correct for non-linearities in the
speedometer but fortunately most
speedometers are proportional in the
region of 40-100km/h and so correcsiliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
The compact PCB assembly clips into a UB5 plastic utility box. An on-board
trimpot allows its output pulse frequency to be adjusted so that the car’s speedo
matches the speed read-out on a GPS.
tion at one speed in this region should
provide the correct speed reading at
other speeds.
You will need to be able to access the
speedometer signal in your vehicle to
be able to install the Speedometer Corrector. This may require disassembly
of the dashboard or steering column
(see below).
Optimistic readings
With most unmodified vehicles
running with standard sized tyres,
the speedometer will tend to read
optimistically, showing a higher than
actual speed. So a speedometer indication of 100km/h could mean you are
actually travelling between 87.27km/h
and 100km/h, depending on the particular speedometer’s accuracy. That’s
because the Australian Design Rules
(ADR) (ADR18/00 and ADR18/03)
specify speedometers to have an accuracy that is within +10% +4km/h for
speeds above 40km/h. Alternatively,
at an actual speed of 100km/h, your
speedometer could read anywhere
between 100km/h and 114km/h and
still be within ADR specs.
Vehicles manufactured before 1995
are worse and could have speed
ometers that are within ±10% of the
actual speed. Should the speedometer
be within the pessimistic 0-10% range,
then the speedometer will show a
slower speed than you are actually
travelling. That means that you could
inadvertently exceed the legal speed
limit and risk a hefty fine or loss of
licence. In that case, the speedometer
certainly needs to be corrected so that
it shows the true speed!
siliconchip.com.au
Note that the odometer in a vehicle
is required to have an accuracy within
±4%. For a modified vehicle, the odo
meter will require correction to bring
it to within the ADR spec.
Elsewhere in this issue, we have
an article on head-up display (HUD)
speedos based on GPS or the vehicle’s
OBDII (on-board diagnostics) socket.
However, while these devices will give
you a more accurate speed reading
than the vehicle’s speedometer, they
will not correct the odometer which
our Speedo Corrector can do, to bring
it within the required accuracy range.
That way, upon resale of the vehicle,
the correct vehicle mileage will be
shown.
Both the speedometer and odometer
use the same speed signal that’s taken
either from a sensor in the gearbox or
a wheel sensor that is also used for
the anti-lock braking system (ABS).
The common signal for both speedo
and odometer means that altering the
sensor signal will change both the
odometer and speedometer readings.
Australian Design Rules mean that
the speedometer is typically less accurate than the odometer but the Speedo
Corrector Mk.3 (ideally) should be
calibrated for both to be within the
ADR specification. A GPS speedometer can be used as a guide to the correct speed adjustment while roadside
odometer check signs can verify the
odometer accuracy.
The Speedo Corrector Mk.3 is a
major revision of the Speedo Corrector
published in the December 2006 issue
of SILICON CHIP. This new version is
considerably smaller, making it easier
1 double-sided PCB, code
05109131, 78 x 46mm
1 UB5 box, 83 x 54 x 31mm
(translucent blue, clear, black
or grey)
2 2-way PCB-mount screw
terminal blocks, 5.08mm pitch
(CON1)
1 DIL18 IC socket
1 7 x 2 DIL pin header (2.54mm
pitch) broken into 4-way &
3-way headers (JP2,JP3)
1 5-pin SIL header (2.54mm
pitch) broken into 3-way &
2-way headers (JP1,LK4)
1 10kΩ 20-turn top-adjust trimpot
(VR1)
1 10kΩ miniature horizontal
mount trimpot (VR2)
5 jumper shunts
1 20MHz crystal (X1)
1 M3 x 10mm screw
1 M3 nut & shakeproof washer
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-E/P microcontroller
programmed with 0510913A.
hex (IC1)
1 LM2940CT-5 TO-220 5V low
dropout regulator (REG1)
4 BC846 (SOT23) NPN SMD
transistors (Q1,Q2,Q3,Q5)
2 BC857 (SOT23) PNP SMD
transistors (Q4,Q6)
1 15V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 8.2V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
1 bi-colour (red/green) 3mm or
5mm LED (LED1)
2 PC stakes (TPG & TP4)
Capacitors
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 1µF monolithic multi-layer
ceramic (MMC)
1 10nF MKT
1 1nF MKT
2 33pF NP0 ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 6.8kΩ
1 220Ω 0.5W
2 1kΩ
1 10Ω
Resistor arrays
2 5-way 10kΩ resistor arrays
(4610X-102-103LF)
1 4-way 1kΩ resistor array (4608102-102LF)
to install in a vehicle. It now operates
from 12V or 24V and includes the
original features such as automatic or
September 2013 33
Specifications
Output ratio: adjustable from 1 to 1/6 the rate for lower output frequencies and from 1 to 6
times for higher frequencies.
Adjustment resolution: < 0.4% for 1x to 2x and 1x to ½x adjustments; < 0.8% for 2x to 4x
and ½x to ¼x; < 1.8% to x6 and x1/6
Minimum input or output operating frequency: 1Hz.
Maximum input & output frequency to maintain maximum adjustment resolution: 1.2kHz.
Response rate adjustments: 1s (fully anticlockwise), 500ms, 250ms (mid setting), 125ms
and 62.5ms (fully clockwise) – set using VR2.
Input and output types: pull-up, pull-down or AC.
Output swing: 0-8.2V or 0-5V or 8.2V peak-peak AC or 5V peak-peak AC.
Maximum input voltage: 50V RMS.
Minimum input sensitivity: 0.7V peak (on high sensitivity setting); 2.5V peak (on low
sensitivity setting).
Power: 9-30V DC at 25mA.
manual set-up to suit the speed signal
sensor and an AC signal output to suit
Nissan speedometers. The overall adjustment range has also been increased
over the original version.
And instead of using two expensive
rotary switches (as in the 2006 version) to set the adjustment, we now
use a low-cost multi-turn trimpot. A
bi-coloured LED shows green for adjustments that increase the output
frequency and red when the output
frequency is reduced (with respect to
the input signal). A test point is provided to allow a multimeter to monitor
the amount of adjustment that’s set.
Mechanical Speedo?
The Speedo Corrector Mk.3 will
work only on electronic speed
o
meters, ie, those that don’t have a
mechanical rotating cable driving
them. If you have an older car with a
mechanical speedo, then you won’t
be able to correct it – at least not
using this circuit.
Non-Linearity?
The Speedo Corrector Mk.3 will
not compensate for non-linear errors. In other words, if the speedo
reads 10% high at 25km/h and 4%
high at 100km/h, you won’t be able
to use the Speedo Corrector Mk.3
to get the speedo accurate at all
speeds.
However, most speedo errors are
proportional and so can be dialledout with the Speedo Corrector Mk.3.
34 Silicon Chip
In practice though, it is usually
not necessary to monitor the degree
of adjustment. The relevant trimpot
(VR1) is simply adjusted so that the
speedometer or odometer reads correctly, compared with a GPS speedo
or roadside odometer check markers
(at 1km intervals).
The Speedo Corrector is housed in
small plastic case measuring 82 x 53 x
30mm. It can be concealed anywhere
underneath the dashboard.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit which is
based on IC1, a PIC16F88-E/P microcontroller. It’s programmed to alter the
incoming speed signal frequency by a
factor set using trimpot VR1.
Transistors Q2, Q3 & Q4 are included to provide for speedometer
sensors that require pull-up or pulldown resistors. Q3 & Q4 are turned on
by RA4 (pin 3) to provide pull-up via
a 1kΩ resistor or Q2 is turned on by
RA3 (pin 2) to pull the same resistor
down, or all the transistors are left
turned off if no pull-up or pull-down is
required (in the case of an AC sensor).
Whether or not Q2, Q3 & Q4 are
turned on is controlled by IC1 in response to the links for JP2, connected
to its RB2, RB4, RB5 & RB7 pins (8,
10, 11 & 13).
As well as providing options for
pull-up, pull-down etc, there is an
‘Autoset’ mode whereby the Speedo
Corrector software will select each
setting one at a time until the micro
gets a satisfactory signal. With each
selection, the program waits to check
if it receives at least 20 cycles of signal
within a 1-second period. If not, it
moves on to the next selection. When
it does receive signal, that input selection is stored in memory and used
thereafter.
Manual selection via the jumper
links is provided for installers of the
unit who already know the required
input condition for particular vehicles.
Manual selection can also be used
should the automatic Autoset not work
successfully on your vehicle.
All the resistors on the circuit
marked with an asterisk (*) are in
resistor arrays: two 10-pin arrays comprising five 10kΩ resistors in each and
a single 8-pin array comprising four
1kΩ resistors. The arrays save space
on the PCB.
After being pulled high, low or
neither, the input signal is fed to the
base of Q1 via a low-pass filter consisting of a 10kΩ resistor and 10nF
capacitor and then via another 10kΩ
resistor. A 6.8kΩ resistor at the base
of Q1 can be either connected to 0V
or left floating under the control of
the RA2 output of IC1. When floating, Q1 will be switched on with a
0.7V input signal, corresponding to
the high-sensitivity setting. When
the 6.8kΩ resistor is connected to 0V,
the signal level required to switch Q1
is increased to about 2.5V (the low
sensitivity setting).
The signal at Q1’s collector is filtered with a 1nF capacitor and fed to
the RB0 input, pin 6, of IC1. This has
an internal Schmitt trigger to ensure a
clean signal. The microcontroller then
increases or decreases the signal frequency according to the program and
feeds it out from its RB1 output at pin
7 to the base of transistor Q5. Q5’s collector load is a 1kΩ resistor connected
to the +8.2V or +5V supply, as selected
by link JP1. Q5 drives Q6 which has
two paralleled 1kΩ resistors (in the
8-pin resistor array, mentioned above).
This is done to provide a relatively low
impedance pull-down output.
Links at JP3 provide the options for
pull-down, pull-up or AC-coupling for
the output signal. Note that the pullup signal comes from the collector of
Q5 while the pull-down or AC signal
comes from the collector of Q6.
VR1 is used to set the degree of
speedometer correction. The voltage
at VR1’s wiper is applied to the AN0
input of IC1 and is converted to a 9-bit
digital value. With the wiper centred,
the speed signal passes through unchanged. Winding the trimpot clocksiliconchip.com.au
LK4
10Ω
+12V/
+24V
220Ω 0.5W
REG1 LM2940-5T
A
K
GND
1 µF
ZD1 15V 1W
+8.2V
K
100 µF
16V
MMC
LK4 IN = 12V
LK4 OUT = 24V
0V
JP1
+5V
OUT
IN
ZD2
8.2V
1W
1 µF
MMC
A
+5V
E
Q4
BC857
10k*
B
1k
C
C
Q3
BC846
1k*
B
10k*
3
6
10k
B
C
Q1
BC846
RB4
RA4
RB7
RB0
1nF
RA0/AN0
1
RA2
IC1
PIC1 6F8 8
PIC16F88
-E/P
2
E
10
X1 20MHz
* PART OF RESISTOR ARRAY
ZD1, ZD2
A
33pF
33pF
16
VR2
10k
4 = AUTOSET
17
1 µF
1k*
18
10k*
λ
12
AR
OSC2
RB 3 /PWM
Vss
10k
7
RB1
5
RESPONSE
3 = PULLDOWN
8
RB6
OSC1
(20T)
2 = AC
13
TP2
15
1 = PULLUP
MMC
RA1/AN1
RA3
VR1
10k
ADJUST
JP2
11
TP1
10k*
B
RB5
RB2
6.8k
Q2
BC846
Vdd
C
E
10nF
14
4
MCLR
TP3
E
10k
IN
10k*
10k*
λ
B
E
LED1
C
100 µF
Q5
BC846
KR
E
Q6
BC857
2x
1k*
10k*
1k
9
1
2
3
1 = PULLUP JP3
2 = AC
3 = PULLDOWN
TP4
TPG
C
B
K
OUT
LM2940T-5V
LED1
SC
2013
SPEEDO CORRECTOR MK3
KR
AR
BC846, BC857
C
B
E
GND
IN
GND
OUT
Fig.1: the circuit is based on PIC microcontroller IC1. It takes the speedo signal and multiplies it according to the
setting of trimpot VR1. The speedo signal frequency can be either increased or decreased.
wise increases the signal frequency
while winding it clockwise reduces
the frequency.
The bi-coloured LED (LED1) connected between pins 9 & 12 indicates
frequency increase or decrease, as
previously mentioned. When VR1 is
set at mid-setting, both the red and
green sections are driven equally and
the resulting orange colour indicates
‘no change’ in output frequency, corresponding to a 50% duty cycle of the
19kHz pulse width modulation (PWM)
signal at pin 9. At the same time, the
voltage at test point TP4 will be at 2.5V.
For other settings of VR1, the RB6
output at pin 12 will be either low or
high; low for green and high for red.
The LED brightness will vary slightly
with the PWM duty cycle but this is
siliconchip.com.au
not sufficient to gauge the degree of
adjustment off centre for VR1.
Setting speedometer response
Different speedos respond at different rates to a change in the signal
frequency. The Speedo Corrector Mk.3
can compensate for this by varying its
response period which can be adjusted
from between 1s and 62.5ms. The
required setting used depends on the
response of the speedometer when the
vehicle comes to a stop. If the speedometer takes too long to drop back to
zero with a 1-second response, then it
should be reduced with trimpot VR2.
IC1 operates at 20MHz using crystal
X1. This frequency was chosen so that
the software program runs sufficiently
fast to operate with speedometer
signals up to 1.2kHz. Note that the
Speedo Corrector Mk.3 will operate
with signals above 1.2kHz but the accuracy of correction will be reduced.
An internal power-on reset for IC1
is provided using the MCLR-bar input
at pin 4 and is connected to the 5V
supply via a 1kΩ resistor. This keeps
the IC reset until the power supply
voltage is correct.
Power for the circuit is applied via
a 10Ω resistor and a 15V zener diode
(ZD1) to an LM2940-5T 5V automotive
regulator, REG1. For 12V operation,
ZD1 is shorted out with link LK4. For
24V operation, LK4 is removed and
ZD1 effectively subtracts 15V from the
supply applied to REG1.
An 8.2V supply is provided using
ZD2 and the 220Ω resistor. This supply
September 2013 35
JP2
1 Pullup
2 AC
3 Pulldown
4 Autoset
10nF
SPEEDOMETER
1nF
CORRECTOR
JP3
1k
ARRAY2
5x10k
10Ω
LED1 3
JP3
1 Pullup
2 AC
3 Pulldown
LK4 out 24V
BREAK OUT FOR
CABLE GLAND CLEARANCE
TP4
ARRAY1
CON1
IN OUT 0V +12/24V
6.8k
TP1,2,3
1
2
15V
1
3
4
220Ω
JP2
AR
ZD1
IC1 PIC16F88
JP1
1
2
LK4
1 µF
1 µF
VR1
1 µF
LM2940
8.2V
+5V
1k
X1
+8.2V
VR2
1 µF
05109131
C 2013
REG1
BREAK OUT FOR
CABLE GLAND CLEARANCE
33pF
1 3 105109131
90150
100 µF
ZD2
33pF TPG
ARRAY3 4x1k
BC857
Q6
Q5
Q4
Q3 Q2
Q1
100 µF
BC846
TOP VIEW OF PCB
BOTTOM VIEW OF PCB
Fig.2: follow these two diagrams to build the unit, starting with the six SMD transistors (Q1-Q6) on the back of the PCB.
Install link LK4 for 12V operation or remove it for 24V operation. The other linking options are explained in the text.
ALTERNATIVE TO RESISTOR ARRAY
USING SINGLE RESISTORS
Fig.3: single resistors mounted
end-on can be used instead of the
resistor arrays. You would need 10
x 10kΩ and 4 x 1kΩ resistors.
can be selected to give a higher signal
output from the corrector which is
necessary for reliable operation with
some speedometers.
Construction
The Speedo Corrector is built onto a
double-sided PCB with plated through
holes. This board is coded 05109131,
measures 78 x 46mm and is designed
to clip into a plastic UB5 box measuring 83 x 54 x 31mm.
A hole is made in one end of the
box to allow a cable gland to be fitted
to allow wire entry (input and output
signals plus supply leads). Alternatively, the leads can be run out through
a grommet and restrained inside the
box using a cable tie.
If you intend fitting a cable gland, it
will be necessary to snap off a breakaway section located at one end of the
PCB, to allow space for the cable gland
nut inside the box (see photo).
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on
the PCB. First, check the PCB for any
faults (rare), then start the assembly
by installing the six SMD transistors
on the underside of the PCB. Note that
Q1, Q2 & Q5 are BC846s, while Q4 &
Q6 are BC857s, so be careful not to get
them mixed up.
You will need a good light (preferably a magnifying lamp) and a finetipped soldering iron for this job. The
procedure is straightforward: carefully place transistor Q1 in position,
hold it down with some tweezers
and solder one of its leads first. That
done, make sure that it’s positioned
correctly (remelt the solder and nudge
it if necessary) before soldering the
other two pins.
Repeat this procedure for the remaining five SMD transistors, taking
care to fit the correct type to each
location.
Once the SMD devices are all in
place, flip the board over and install
the single resistors and zener diodes.
Table 1 shows the resistor colour codes
but it’s a good idea to check each one
using a digital multimeter before soldering it into position.
Make sure that the zener diodes are
installed with the correct polarity, ie,
with the banded ends orientated as
shown on Fig.2. Don’t get these two
devices mixed up – ZD1 is a 15V zener,
while ZD2 is an 8.2V zener.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
2
1
1
36 Silicon Chip
Value
6.8kΩ
1kΩ
220Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
blue grey red brown
brown black red brown
red red brown brown
brown black black brown
There are two PC stakes to be installed and these go in at test points
TPG and TP4. PC stakes are not installed at TP1, TP2 & TP3, as these test
points can be monitored by touching
a multimeter probe on the plated PCB
pads provided.
Resistor arrays
The resistor arrays are labelled 10X2-103 (5 x 10kΩ) and 8X-2-102 (4 x
1kΩ). These can be installed now and
can go in either way around.
Alternatively, you can use single
resistors mounted end-on in place
of the arrays, as shown in Fig.3. You
would need to install 10 x 10kΩ resistors instead of the two 5-way arrays
and 4 x 1kΩ resistors instead of the
4-way array.
The 20MHz crystal (X1) and an 18pin IC socket for IC1 can be fitted next.
The socket must be orientated with
its notched end towards the adjacent
edge of the PCB. Follow with regulator
REG1; it’s mounted horizontally and
secured with an M3 screw, shakeproof
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
1µF
10nF
1nF
33pF
µF Value IEC Code EIA Code
1µF
1u0
105
0.01µF
10n
103
0.001µF 1n
102
NA
33p
33
5-Band Code (1%)
blue grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
red red black black brown
brown black black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
Take care to ensure that microcontroller IC1 and the other polarised parts are orientated correctly and don’t get the
SMD transistors mixed up. The signal and power leads exit the case through a cable gland, as shown at right.
washer and nut. Bend its leads at right
angles before installing it and be sure
to tighten it’s mounting screw before
soldering the leads.
Don’t do this in reverse order. If you
solder the leads first, you could crack
the PCB tracks as the mounting screw
is tightened down.
Now for the capacitors. The ceramic
and MKT types can go in either way
around but the 100µF electrolytic must
be orientated as shown.
The 4-way and 3-way dual-in-line
pin headers for JP2 and JP3 are next.
Push them all the way down onto the
PCB before soldering their leads.
Indicator LED
LED1 is mounted so that it sits
directly on (or very close) to the PCB.
Make sure it’s orientated correctly with
its anode (longer lead) going to the pad
marked ‘AR’.
That done, install trimpots VR1 &
VR2 and the 4-way screw terminal
block. VR1 is mounted with its adjusting screw towards the crystal. The
4-way screw terminal block is made
by dovetailing two 2-way terminal
blocks together. Push it all the way
down onto the PCB and make sure its
wire entry holes face outwards before
soldering the pins.
Initial tests
Before plugging IC1 into its socket,
connect a jumper across LK4 and apply 12V to the circuit (ie, between the
12/24V and the 0V input terminals).
That done, check that the voltage
between pins 5 & 14 of IC1’s socket is
around 5V (you should get a reading
that’s between 4.85V and 5.15V).
If this is correct, disconnect the
siliconchip.com.au
power and plug microcontroller IC1
into its socket, taking care to orientate
it correctly. Make sure that none of the
IC’s pins are bent under the socket or
splayed down the side during this
procedure.
With IC1 now in place, reapply
power and adjust VR1 to its mid setting. This is indicated when both the
green and red colours in LED1 flash. If
the LED is red, rotate VR1 clockwise to
reach mid setting. If the LED is green,
rotate VR1 anticlockwise until mid
setting is reached.
Installing the jumpers
Before installing the Speedo Corrector in your vehicle, you need to fit the
relevant jumper links.
First, either leave the jumper on LK4
for 12V operation or remove it for 24V
operation. That done, install jumper
JP1 in the 5V position but don’t fit a
jumper to the JP3 header yet.
Most readers should also install a
jumper in position 4 on header JP2 (ie,
in the Autoset position) for automatic
setting up. The response trimpot (VR2)
should initially be set fully anticlockwise for a 1s response time.
In some cases, you may already
know the required jumper settings
for the vehicle (eg, if you’ve already
installed a Speedo Corrector Mk.3 in
a similar vehicle). In that case, fit a
jumper in position 1 of JP2 for pullup, position 2 for AC or position 3
for pull-down. Low-sensitivity AC
requires jumpers in both positions 2
& 3 but ignore this for the time being.
The JP3 setting needs to duplicate
the JP2 selection, ie, a jumper in position 1 for pull-up, position 2 for AC
and position 3 for pull-down.
As stated though, if you don’t know
the settings, fit a jumper to position 4
(Autoset) of JP2 and leave the jumper
off JP3.
Installation
Now for the installation but first a
word of warning: in some cars, it will
be necessary to partially dismantle
the dash in order to locate the power
supply wirer and speed input wire to
the speedo. If you need to disassemble
any of the steering wheel section, take
care if an air-bag installed as this will
have to be disabled.
Generally this means disconnecting
the vehicle’s battery and waiting for
a set period before it is safe to disassemble the column. However, check
the manual for your car and make
sure you know exactly what to do to
disable the airbag before proceeding.
If in doubt, don’t!
In practice, the Speedo Corrector
must be connected to either a 12V or
24V ignition-switched supply, with
the 0V line going to chassis. Be sure
to use automotive cable for these connections and make sure you connect
to a fused supply rail (eg, for the accessories).
The signal input wire to the speedo
must be cut so that the Speedo Corrector Mk.3 can be inserted in-line
with it. This wire will usually come
either directly from a speed sensor or
it may come from the ECU and you
can generally find it in the dashboard
space behind the speedometer. A wiring diagram for your vehicle will come
in handy for tracking down this wire.
Depending on the vehicle, removing the dashboard panels can be a
difficult undertaking and may not be
September 2013 37
5
TP4 Voltage Versus Output/Input Ratio
4.5
4
TP4 (V)
3.5
3
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
1/6
1/4
1
1/2
2
4
6
OUTPUT RATIO
Fig.4: you can use this graph to determine the voltage that needs to be set
at TP4 for a given frequency output ratio. It works in reverse too – if the
Speedo Corrector has been adjusted using a GPS, you can determine the
output ratio from the graph after first measuring the voltage on TP4.
something you want to do. In that case,
tracking down the speed signal wire
elsewhere in the vehicle is the way
to go but, of course, you will need a
wiring diagram. In other cases, it may
be possible to find the dashboard disassembly instructions on the internet,
especially for older cars.
Once you’ve located the speed signal wire, cut it and connect the Speedo
Corrector Mk.3’s signal input to the
lead coming from the speed sensor or
ECU. The corrector’s output is then
connected to the wire running to the
speedometer.
Initially, you should make the leads
to the Speedo Corrector Mk.3 long
enough so that it can be dropped down
from behind the dash and easily accessed by someone sitting in the front
passenger seat. Once it’s all wired up,
Tacho As Well?
The Speedo Corrector Mk.3 will
also work with electronic tachos that
take their feed from the ECU (ie, all
cars with engine management).
The configuration procedure is
the same as for use of the device as
a speed interceptor, except that the
“speed sensor” becomes the tacho
output signal from the ECU. This
application is particularly suited to
engine and gearbox swaps.
38 Silicon Chip
you can jump straight to the calibration section below if you have already
manually set up the jumper links.
Alternatively, for Autoset, you have
to follow these simple steps:
(1) Start the engine and check that
LED1 lights red.
(2) Drive the car for a minute or so with
a passenger (note: the speedo will not
be working at this stage).
(3) Wait until the LED flashes green at
a 1-second rate. This shows that the
Speedo Corrector Mk.3 has automatically set itself to cater for the type of
speedometer signal that is present and
is receiving a valid signal from it.
(4) Once a valid signal has been received, get the passenger to remove
the Autoset jumper. Note that the
power must still be on when removing the Autoset jumper in order for
the settings to be stored. If this has
been successful, the LED should now
alternately be flashing red and green
to indicate that the unit is operating
normally (although the speedo will
still not be working).
(5) If the LED doesn’t flash, check the
signal wiring from the speed sensor. If
the wiring is correct, try the 8.2V setting for JP1 and drive the vehicle again.
(6) If it is still “no go”, try manually
setting the jumpers on JP2 and JP3
(they have to agree) and test each setting in turn. First, remove the Autoset
jumper, then start with the Pullup
jumper option (ie, position 1 for both
JP2 & JP3) and drive the vehicle to see
if the speedo works.
If it doesn’t, change the settings until
the speedo works. Position 2 (AC) for
both JP2 & JP3 can be selected next, followed by position 3 (Pulldown). The
final selection to try is low-sensitivity
AC, ie, install jumpers in both positions 2 & 3 of JP2 and in position 2
of JP3.
(7) If you got the speedo working with
the Autoset function, you now need to
install a jumper at JP3. It’s just a matter
of trying each jumper setting in turn
until the speedometer starts working.
Alternatively, you can determine the
set-up by making some simple voltage
measurements. TP2 will be at 5V if the
selection is Pulldown, while TP3 will
be at 5V if the selection is Pullup. For
AC, both TP2 and TP3 will be at 0V.
Test point TP1
OK, so what’s the purpose of test
point TP1? It’s there so that if an Auto
set sets the input for AC, TP1 can be
checked to see if the associated 6.8kΩ
resistor is tied to 0V for low sensitivity
or left floating for high sensitivity. This
may be of interest to installers so that
they can check what the settings are
for each vehicle.
For example, if the voltage between
TP1 and TPG reads 0V (with power applied), then input to the 6.8kΩ resistor
is probably tied to 0V. However, if you
place your finger on test point TP1 to
inject noise and the voltage changes,
then TP1 is floating. This means that
the input to the 6.8kΩ resistor is also
floating.
Calibration
You will need an accurate reference
to correctly calibrate the speedo. This
can be provided by a GPS unit or a GPS
speedometer. Just make sure that you
have an assistant make the necessary
adjustment as you drive! It’s simply a
matter of adjusting VR1 in the Speedo
Corrector Mk.3 until speedo gives
the correct reading (ie, agrees with
the GPS).
You can also use the odometer
check distances that are marked on
some roads to check the accuracy of
the odometer.
Alternative approach
You can also adjust the Speedo
Corrector for a certain ratio based on
known wheel, differential or gearbox
siliconchip.com.au
Helping to put you in Control
4-Beam Photoelectric Detector
Another view of the completed unit. Note how a
small section at the righthand end of the PCB is
snapped off to provide clearance for the nut that’s
used to secure the cable gland.
ratio changes. Basically, test point
TP4 allows you to monitor the ratio
between input and output frequency.
This test point nominally sits at 2.5V
when the input and output frequencies
are equal but goes above 2.5V when
the output frequency is higher than
the input frequency.
Conversely, TP4 goes below 2.5V
when the output frequency is lower.
Note that TP4’s voltage is non-linear
with respect to frequency changes.
The accompanying graph (Fig.4)
shows the relationship between the
voltage at TP4 and the output:input
frequency ratio. So to set the unit for
a known output ratio, simply use the
graph to read off the required voltage
for TP4.
Trimpot VR1 is then adjusted to
bring TP4 to this value.
If a high degree of accuracy is required, measure REG1’s output (Vreg)
and then multiply the voltage read off
the graph by Vreg/5.
You can also use Fig.4 to look up
the ratio that’s been set using VR1 if
you have calibrated the unit against a
GPS. It’s just a matter of measuring the
voltage at TP4 and then looking up the
ratio on the graph. For best accuracy,
multiply the TP4 reading by 5/Vreg
before checking the ratio.
Note that the voltage reading will
not provide an extremely accurate
value to calculate the adjustment setting. That’s because the PWM output
is loaded by the indicating LED.
Final trims
If you have manually set the input
selection for AC, you can experiment
by also placing a low-sensitivity jumper in position 3 of LK2. This may result
in smoother operation of speedometer
siliconchip.com.au
compared to when this jumper is left
out. Select the setting that gives best
results (ie, jumper in or out).
Additionally, when there is an Autoset selection of AC (both TP2 and
TP3 at 0V), the sensor signal may
have required a pull-down setting in
order to allow satisfactory operation
at high speeds without dropping out.
An inherent pull-down is provided
by the 6.8kΩ resistor on the base of
Q1 but this may not be sufficient to
pull the signal down fast enough at
high frequencies. If you experience
speedometer drop-out at high speeds,
try installing a jumper at position 3 for
JP2 to give manual pull-down.
Another possible problem is that the
speedo may some show some lag when
the vehicle abruptly comes to a stop
from a slow speed. When this happens,
the speedo may show a reading for up
to 1s after the vehicle stops.
Speedo lag could also be evident
when moving off from a standstill. In
this case, the speedo initially shows
0km/h before then suddenly jumping
to the correct speed reading.
This problem can be overcome by
adjusting response trimpot VR2. At
its full anticlockwise position, the
response lag is 1s. As the trimpot is
adjusted clockwise, the response becomes faster at 0.5s and then 0.25s at
mid-setting. Further rotation provides
0.125s and then 62.5ms at VR2’s full
clockwise position.
The optimal setting is when the
adjustment provides the shortest
lag while still reliably operating the
speedo at slow speeds.
Once the Speedo Corrector is working properly, the lid can be attached
and the unit tucked up behind the
SC
dash out of sight.
Through-beam laser sensor
consisting of a transmitter
and receiver. Alarm output
has normally open and
normally closed contact, up
to 250 m outdoor & 750 m
indoor detection distance.
13.8 to 24 VDC powered
SKU: KPR-121 Price: $92.97 + GST
SMS NET Data Logger
It features 8 digital inputs,
4 digital outputs & 8 temp.
channels. Configuration is
setup by GSM mobile phone
or via Ethernet. Up to 10 different numbers can be preset
in the system. 9 to 15 VDC powered.
SKU: LEC-050 Price: $699 + GST
DIN Rail Mount Step Pulser
Controls speed & direction
of 2 stepper motors. It features on-board potentiometer for speed control, mini
joystick for motor run &
direction. Output frequency
is between 70 Hz to 4.8 kHz. 8 to 30 VDC
powered. External inputs for buttons/joystick
SKU: KTD-277 Price: $49.95 + GST
Wired Glass Breakage Sensor
The sensor is used as an
input device to an alarm
system. When a glass
breakage frequency has been
detected, it will trigger a
signal to the alarm system.
Detection range up to 7 m. 12
VDC powered.
SKU: KPR-114 Price: $22.40 + GST
2.5 mm Universal Terminal
Universal DIN Rail Screw
terminal offers a wire section
of 2.5 mm2 with 2 side cable
entry. Suitable for U type
rails, TH35-7.5 & G-type railway G32-15L, G32-18. Other
sizes are also available.
SKU: TRM-007 Price: $0.79 + GST
IRTemp Sensor Module
Remote temperature sensing
module for your Arduino! It
features; on-board voltage
regulator, communications
interface, measurement temperature range from -33 to
220 °C & 1s response time.
3 to 5 VDC powered.
SKU: FRA-020 Price: $34.95 + GST
Asymmetrical Cyclic Timer
DIN-rail mount cyclic
timer with configurable on
and off times. Features
selectable “pulse first”
or “pause first” for initial
timing function. 4PCO
relay outputs, selectable
multi-time range from 1s to 100 days. 12 to
250 VAC/VDC powered.
SKU: NTR-110 Price: $74.95 + GST
For OEM/Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9782 5882
oceancontrols.com.au
September 2013 39
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Calling all musos, production
controllers . . . anyone who needs a
really rugged foot switch
New Zealand based Rixen has released a purpose designed pedal enclosure kit for musical instrument effects.
The pedal is designed to operate either a 3PDT or 4PDT
switch as favoured by many guitar effects enthusiasts, and
the standard kit includes a high quality 4PDT latching
switch with gold plated contacts.
We also think this would be ideal as a run, start/stop
or reversing switch for the SILICON CHIP Induction Motor
Speed Controller (see last month’s issue).
Another feature is an integrated compartment for a 9V
battery that can be accessed by simply lifting and sliding
open the hinge of the pedal.
Manufactured in New Zealand from sturdy diecast aluminium, the kit comes complete with all
the hardware required to complete an enclosure.
An optional solder masked prototyping PCB
makes a complete pedal build easy.
The 139.5 x 89.5 x 69 mm pedal is available
in bare aluminium ($USD 36.95), ‘Sky Blue’ or
‘Emerald Green’ gloss powder coat ($USD 46.90),
Prices exclude shipping.
Altronics now stocking
Thermaltronics soldering irons
Altronics are now
stockists for Thermaltronics soldering stations. The Thermaltronics range features an RF
induction design with
Curie heat technology.
This technology, by
Thermaltronics is fast
replacing the older conventional ceramic heating element
technology by utilizing RF induction to bring the tip temperature
to its Curie Point which is set by the composition of a special
magnetic alloy. Once it hits its Curie Point, the tip will lose its
magnetic properties and will idle at its set temperature ±1.1°C,
ready for action in under 10 seconds!
Once the soldering tip makes contact with a solder joint, the tip
transfers heat at a rapid rate and when confronted with a heavier
load or lead-free solder, the system instantaneously increases its
power to ensure constant temperature is maintained at the tip.
As the tip is the heater, it responds instantly, unlike conventional
soldering systems where users have to dial the temperature right
up to compensate for the drop in tip temperature.
Altronics stock Contact:
two models, the TMT- Altronic Distributors Pty Ltd
9000S-2 (pictured) PO Box 8350, Perth Busn Centre, WA 6849
and the TMT-2000S- Tel: 1300 780 999 Fax: 1300 790 999
K station.
Website: www.altronics.com.au
40 Silicon Chip
Contact:
Rixen Pedals Pty Ltd
10 Barlow St, Christchurch, 8041, New Zealand
Tel: (64) 800 555 0100
Website: www.rixenpedals.com
Icom tri-band amateur transceiver
with touch screen
Icom, a leader
in amateur radio
technology, has
announced the
release of the
IC-7100 touchscreen multimode transceiver. With the
touch-screen interface, the IC7100 offers straightforward operation, while the angled
display and remote-head configuration make both installation and operation very versatile.
The IC-7100, as a multi-band transceiver, is capable of
operating on the HF, 50MHz, 144MHz and 430/440MHz
bands. The transceiver also features D-STAR DV mode (digital voice and data), providing digital clarity and security.
With the new optional AH-740 High-Speed Auto Tuning
Antenna, operation is even more simplified, especially for
mobile use, as the relay-driven tuner automatically adjusts
(150ms typical tuning time) when changing frequencies.
For more information on the IC-7100 Contact:
or other Icom prod- Icom Australia Pty Ltd
ucts, please visit Unit 1, 103 Garden Rd Clayton 3168 Vic.
their website or call Tel: (03) 9549 7500 Fax: (03) 9549 7505
the number at right. Website: www.icom.net.au
siliconchip.com.au
HK Wentworth putting on a show
at ElectroneX
See the Latest in Electronics Products &
Technology this month at ElectroneX!
Electrolube Chemicals
and Hakko’s complete
soldering range for Australia and New Zealand
region will be on display
at Electronex 2013, stand
B15. See the new-release
FX888D ESD-safe digital soldering station
with selectable preset temperatures and
digital calibration. It replaces the popular FX888 analog version but still
utilises common spares and tips.
The extensive Hakko range of
equipment will be on display and
available for demonstration.
Electrolube’s products on display
include conformal coatings, thermal
pastes, encapsulating resins, maintenance aerosols and cleaning products.
New products will be the Aromatic free
conformal coating PUCAF, offering quick
cure times and
very low VOC’s Contact:
and Isocyanate- HK Wentworth Australasia
free resins PE7500 Unit 3/98 Old Pittwater Rd, Brookvale NSW 2100
alleviating OHS Tel: (02) 9938 1566 Fax: (02) 9938 1467
Website: www.hkwentworth.com.au
concerns.
ElectroneX – The Electronics Design & Assembly Expo returns
to Melbourne this month (11-12 September) at Melbourne Park
Function Centre. This specialised event is the major focal point
for the electronics industry in Australia and is designed to help
professionals across a vast array of industry sectors to stay in
touch with the latest electronics technology developments for
systems integration and production electronics.
Design, electronic & electrical engineers, OEM, scientific,
IT and communications professionals and service technicians
are invited to attend the event where they will find the latest
technology driving future product & system developments.
ElectroneX comprises a major trade show with over 80
companies showcasing and demonstrating the latest new
product releases for industry, scientific and commercial
applications. The SMCBA – Electronics Design & Manufacture
Conference is being held in conjunction with the exhibition.
This year’s conference will feature several highly acclaimed
international presenters and deliver a wealth of information on
electronics design and manufacture but will also feature new
streams on Embedded Systems and New Product Development.
For further information and free trade
registration for the expo
visit www.electronex.
com.au.
New GWInstek 50000
count DMMs
Mouser claim world’s
smallest transistor
Jaycar wants you
to find a
fortune!
The new generation GDM-834x series dual
measurement multimeter from GW-Instek
has two models – GDM-8341 and GDM 8342.
Features include 50,000 counts, VFD dualdisplay, 0.02% basic DC voltage accuracy
and a USB protocol connector to provide
users with measurement precision, lucid data
observation and the convenience to connect
with the personal computer.
The GDM-834x series not only supports
the fundamental measurement items provided by general multimeter but also has
capacitance and temperature measurement
functions.
The GDM-834x series can operate alone
or can interface to a PC.
ROHM Semiconductor’s ultra compact MOSFETs and bipolar transistors,
now available through Mouser, have
the smallest transistor package on the
market.
The VML0806 case type measures
just 0.8mm × 0.6mm with a height of
only 0.36mm. As portable devices,
such as smartphones and digital
cameras, get smaller and more sophisticated, thinner, more compact
components are required.
Until now, problems related to internal element miniaturisation, bonding
stability, package process accuracy,
and surface mount technology limited
the smallest conventional transistors
to the 1006 size (1.0 x 0.6 x 0.37mm).
ROHM was able to overcome these
challenges by utilizing a smaller
element and high-precision package
process technology, resulting in a very
compact form factor.
Contact:
Contact:
Contact:
Suite 302, 18-20 Orion Rd, Lane Cove 2066
Tel: 1300 811 355 Fax: (02) 9418 8485
Website: www.tekmark.net.au
Unit 702-3, 7/F, LU Plaza, 2 Wing Yip St, Kwun
Tong, Kowloon Tel: 852 3756 4700
Website: www.mouser.com
PO Box 107, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Order Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 8832 3188
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
TekMark Australia Pty Ltd
siliconchip.com.au
Mouser Electronics
Jaycar Electronics has two
new portable metal detectors which
they hope will lead you
to fortune (if not fame)!
The first (QP-2303) has
an LCD readout and will detect a variety of metals including iron,
nickel, gold, brass, zinc, copper, silver
and aluminium.
It claimed to be able to detect a 10c
piece at 150mm depth! This is the
deluxe version and sells for $149.00
The second is similar but doesn’t
have the LCD readout. This one (Cat
QP-2301) retails for just $59.95 – you
could earn that back in one good
(lucky!) day. And this one has a waterproof search coil so you can go
prospecting in streams and lakes.
Jaycar Electronics (all stores)
September 2013 41
by
Ross Tester
Collinear
Antennas
for ADS-B
(or anywhere else!)
In the August issue, Jim Rowe told us that he found the little
“toy” whip antennas that come with USB DVB-T Dongles
work about as well as anything else for ADSB, especially
when cut down to a quarter-wave at ADSB operating
frequency (1090MHz). Here are a couple of antennas which
will deliver more signal. You can use the same principles for
just about any frequency.
A
fair amount of research has backed up what Jim
said – you don’t need a you-beaut antenna to receive
ADSB signals.
It was suggested by one source that the reason for this is
that the signals, emanating from aircraft and their straightline, unobstructed paths, are not likely to suffer as much
degradation as ground-based signals. That’s as good an
explanation as we can come up with, too!
However, it was also suggested that there is one antenna
type which does offer better performance than a simple
42 Silicon Chip
quarter-wave whip – and that antenna is the collinear.
The big advantage of the collinear is that it costs peanuts
to make, is quite easy to build and should give a useful
improvement in gain.
What is a collinear antenna?
These antennas have been around for the best part of a
century, having been first described in the jounal of the Institute of Radio Engineers by PS Carter in 1932 and further
by CW Harrison in 1945. They have become very popular
siliconchip.com.au
I’m holding BOTH
antennas in this shot –
in my right hand
is the little wire
antenna, with
the much larger
coax collinear
in my left.
There’s about 3dB
difference
between
them.
wave phasing stub between each section.
And yet another method is to include an inductor or coil
between each section which achieves the same result. There
are many other phasing methods as well but we won’t get
bogged down on the technicalities here. We just want to
make an antenna!
Collinear antennas are also very much suited to a limited
frequency range – ideal for single-frequency ADSB – and
they also have the feature of being very easy to increase
the antenna gain, within reason, simply by adding more
elements.
The collinears we are describing here are ‘end fed’ – that
is, the feed to the receiver comes from the bottom end of
the antenna. This is a very convenient way to feed the
antenna, particularly when it is vertically polarised, as it
must be for the vertically-polarised ADSB signals.
A properly-designed antenna should be suitable for both
transmitting and receiving, so if you want to use the information later in this article to change dimensions and make
(say) an antenna suitable for UHF CB radio (476-477MHz)
you can easily do so.
Our simplest collinear
both in amateur and professional ranks over the years.
In a nutshell, a collinear is a vertical antenna whose
resonant elements are connected along a common line (ie,
co-linear) so that each element is opposite in phase to its
neighbour. If you’re not into antennas, that mouthful is,
fortunately, very easy to achieve.
In some collinears (and the second one we will be making
here) this phase transition is achieved simply by reverseconnecting each element. Another approach (especially
used in larger, high-frequency collinears) is to use a 1/4siliconchip.com.au
As we said earlier, collinears have been around for quite
a while and come in all shapes and sizes. Therefore anything we describe here has almost certainly been described
elsewhere before. And so it is with this one – in fact, we
acknowledge that the whole inspiration came from one we
saw on the ’net (http://martybugs.net/wireless/collinear.
cgi).
That was for a 6dBi collinear for the WiFi band (2.45GHz);
the dimensions simply scale up for the longer-wavelength
ADSB frequency.
The beauty of this antenna is that it is made from bits and
pieces you may have lying around – the most important
one being a length of 2.5mm2 copper wire.
Hmm, where do you get that from? How about some
mains building cable? You’ll need the single-strand variety
– not quite as common as multi-strand these days – but it
doesn’t matter if it’s old and tarnished. For an 8-element
collinear, you’ll need a length about 500mm; to add more
elements, you’ll need more length!
Even if you have to buy a length of this cable, it should
set you back not much more than a dollar or so for a metre.
The other hardware you’ll need is a length of 20mm or
25mm plastic conduit (again, used in electrical installations – short lengths are regularly discarded from building sites), an end cap to suit (a few cents from a hardware
store) and some plastic saddle clamps to mount it (ditto
from hardware store).
The easiest way to connect to your antenna is to use
the mini base that was supplied with your USB dongle.
Admittedly, this only gives you about 1.2m of cable, so if
you want to use this over more than that length (outside,
for example), you’re going to need to make some form of
base with low-loss coax to connect to your receiver.
The USB Dongle is likely to have a very small “MCX”
connector; so unless you get really lucky and find an MCX
plug which can fit on your coax, some form of adaptor is
likely to be required between the coax cable and the dongle.
But we’d think twice about using this simple antenna
and a long length of coax – this one is quick and easy to
make but the second antenna should be a better performer.
September 2013 43
Before we start
90% of 1/4
(62mm)
The frequency we want to receive is 1090MHz. This
has a wavelength () of 275mm, derived from the formula:
~420mm OF
25-30mm
CONDUIT
WITH
TOP CAP
= C/f, where
C = the speed of light (near enough to 300,000,000m/s)
and
f = the frequency in Hz.
ONE-TURN
COIL AS LARGE
AS WILL FIT
INSIDE
CONDUIT
There are three lengths we need to know, derived from
the full wavelength:
a quarter wave (¼)
= 69mm
a half wave (½)
= 138mm
a three quarter wave (¾)= 206mm
Remember these – you’ll need them!
ENSURE TOP
AND BOTTOM
OF COIL DO
NOT TOUCH
IF BARE WIRE
Making the antenna
3/4
(206mm)
ALL
DIMENSIONS
SUIT ADSB
(1090MHz)
ONE-TURN
COIL AS LARGE
AS WILL FIT
INSIDE
CONDUIT
1/2
(138mm)
ENSURE TOP
AND BOTTOM
OF COIL DO
NOT TOUCH
IF BARE WIRE
“CRANK” WIRE
TO ALIGN BASE
WITH MIDDLE
OF COILS
SUITABLE MOUNT/
CONNECTOR –
EG 3mm THREADED
STANDOFF
44 Silicon Chip
The simple wire
antenna is made
from a ~500mm
length of 2.5mm
copper wire. For
such a simple
antenna, it gives
a surprisingly
good result. Above
is shown the
completed antenna
mounted on the
mini base which
comes with the
USB dongle. It’s a
little misleading as
both coils need to
be at right angles
to the elements,
not as the camera
has distorted here.
And be careful not
to bend the wire
– it should be as
straight as possible.
As Mrs Beeton’s cookbook almost says, “first catch your
wire!” If you happen to have a length of stiff copper wire,
great. Otherwise, you’ll need to strip it from a scrap of
single-conductor T&E 2.5mm building cable. You don’t
want the plastic insulation on it, so remove that as well.
We worked with a 500mm length.
You need to first make the wire as straight as you can –
and one of the easiest ways to do this is to firmly grip one
end of the wire in a vice, just as firmly grip the opposite
end with a large pair of pliers, and pull firmly. You’ll feel
a little “give” as the wire stretches slightly and presto! A
straight length of wire.
Once you’ve straightened it out, try not to bend it – this
will reduce its performance.
Carefully remove the wire from the vice and cut off any
damaged wire (eg, from the vice or pliers) at the end and
place it on a flat surface, ready to measure out. As our
diagram shows, the wire collinear is in three sections or
elements: from the bottom, a ½-wave length, a ¾-wave
length and a not-quite-¼-wave length. These lengths are
as shown on the diagram. Between each of the elements
there is a single-turn phasing coil, wound from the same
wire but at 90° to the elements.
You might be wondering why the top element is less
than a ¼-wave length.
All antennas exhibit either capacitance or inductance
At left is a close-up
of one of the two
“coils” – note that
its start and finish
do not touch. Again,
this coil is at right
angles to the vertical
wire elements.
At right is the bottom
of the antenna,
soldered into a 3mm
threaded stand-off
so it can be used
with the base which
comes with the TV
USB dongle. Note
the crank at the base
which aligns the
base to the middle of
the coils above.
siliconchip.com.au
off a millimetre could easily make the antenna not perform
properly (by the same token, it could do the opposite. But
you have no way of knowing).
So all you can really do is compare this antenna to the
ADSB antenna you made by clipping the whip supplied
with the dongle down to ¼ wave (69mm). We’d be surprised
if it didn’t do somewhat better – that is, receive ADSB
signals from further-away planes.
Finishing off
Taken from a Gratten spectrum analyser, this shows
a 1090MHz signal received by the bare wire Collinear
antenna. As you can see, the signal is well above the
background noise and this would be further improved by
the coax version of the Collinear.
or both. In this case, it is the capacitance that affects the
length, so it is made 10% less than you would normally
expect to reduce the capacitance effect and so make the
length “seem” like a ¼ wave.
Start at the top of the antenna and measure down, say,
70mm. Mark the wire with a felt-tip pen. Using the photo
as a guide, carefully bend the wire straight out at 90° and
wind a single-loop coil around a former, as large as will fit
into your electrical conduit (20mm conduit is about 16mm
ID; 25mm conduit is about 21mm ID).
Note that the start and finish of the coil must not touch
each other, particularly if you’re using bare copper wire.
Also make sure that the start and finish are directly over
each other and the coil is as round as you can make it.
Now you can carefully measure back up the wire 63mm
(69mm - 10%) from the coil and snip off the remainder.
The middle length, down to the next coil, is the ¾ wave
length or 206mm. Measure this, mark the wire and bend
the second coil the same way as the first, so that the coils
are directly under one another.
Finally, the bottom section of the antenna is the 1/2-wave
section, 138mm. There is a “crank” in the bottom of this wire
so that the bottom of the antenna is in line with the centre
of the coils. There’s a second wrinkle here: the 138mm
must be from the end of whatever you use to mount the
antenna. We used the same base that comes with the USB
dongle antenna – it has a 3mm threaded end which makes
it convenient to use a 3mm (internal) threaded standoff
soldered to the wire. Just make sure that you don’t push
the wire all the way through (leave enough to screw onto
the base) and don’t fill it up with solder.
Adjustments
Without some rather specialised equipment, it is not possible to adjust this simple antenna. At 1090MHz, snipping
The wire antenna is a little prone to damage so it’s best
housed in some form of protective “case”. A short length
of electrical conduit is ideal – the whole antenna can be
slid inside it with conduit caps to seal it. On the top, the
cap slides straight on, whereas the bottom cap will need a
hole drilled through it to allow the coax to pass through.
Conduit caps don’t tend to fit tight like other PVC pipes,
so once everything is finished to your satisfaction (and
tested!) we would glue the caps on with either PVC pipe
cement (very permanent!) or even a dab of super glue (easier
to prise off), just in case you want later access to the antenna.
The web version used a male and female “N” connector
but we think this is a bit of overkill – they’re not cheap – so
why not simply make the coax captive (ie, glue it in) and
save the possible losses from the connectors?
The coax collinear
This is the antenna which has been reported as giving
excellent results on ADSB – one report we read said that
the user could pick up signals from planes as much as 250
nautical miles away (>460km). That’s no mean feat – we’d be
interested to know if any readers have the same experience.
The coax collinear one is made up of short (approximately
½ wavelength) lengths of coaxial cable, secured together
so that the inner conductor of one length connects to the
braid of the next and vice versa. This gives the necessary
phase reversal of each element.
The reason we said ~1/2 wavelength lengths of coax is
that there is a slight complication factor here. All coaxial
cables exhibit what is known as velocity factor, which is
the speed an electromagnetic wave travels along the cable
compared to the speed in a vacuum (which approximates
the speed of light). The velocity factor in a vacuum is 1.0; all
cables are less than that because they are less than perfect!
The dielectric in the cable (the insulation which separates
the inner conductor from the braid) effectively slows the
signal down. Velocity factor, therefore, varies from cable to
cable depending on the type of dielectric – some, such as
polyethylene and solid PTFE are quite low (0.695) while
others such as foam polyethylene can be higher – 0.79 to
0.88.
What this means to the constructor is that the length of
the elements in the collinear need to be adjusted to take
the velocity factor into account, simply by multiplying
the theoretical half wavelength (in this case <at> 1090MHz =
CUT OFF
FLUSH
INNER
WIRE
10mm
RG-6 COAX
LENGTH = 0.5 x Vf (for RG-6 FOAM COAX: 0.5 x 275 x 0.85 = 117mm)
10mm
Here’s one element of our coaxial collinear, shown exactly same size so you could even use this as a
template. Shown at left is a typical “quad core” coax cable, with the layers cut to reveal its construction.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 45
We found it easiest to mark off the elements by using a rule. The length of centre conductor (copper wire) emerging from
each end is not at all critical – just long enough to work with – but the length of the element itself is! As seen here, we cut
each element to 117mm. You need to end up with a clean cut as shown at right – make absolutely certain there are no
wisps of wire shorting between the centre conductor and braid. If necessary, check for shorts with a multimeter.
138mm) by the velocity factor. For a foam dielectric collinear, this would be 117mm (138 x 0.85).
If you have a coax with clear identification, there are
many references on the net which will tell you its velocity
factor. If you can’t identify it, look at the dielectric: if it is
foam, use the 0.85 figure. If it is solid, use the 0.695 figure.
Because the receiver input is 50 impedance, you should
ideally use 50 coax. But we’ve made ours from RG6 coax
(because we had some) which is 75, so if you happen
to have a spare length of 75, give it a go. Sure, it’s not
quite according to Hoyle – but you won’t break anything!
How many elements?
This is entirely up to you! While there would be little
point in making a one-element collinear, it can be done.
But theoretically, the more elements there are the more gain
your antenna will have (doubling the number of elements
should give you a 3dB increase in gain). However, there
is a law of diminishing returns as there are losses (in the
coax) which start to become significant fairly quickly. 8-12
elements appears to be about optimal both from a performance viewpoint and also ease of construction and stability.
A collinear with 12 elements at 1090MHz will have a
gain of about 6dB and be just over 1.4m long, which is probably a good compromise between gain and size. If you’re
stuck for space, 8 elements should still give a reasonable
performance and be less than 1m long.
You can cut the coax with
a very sharp hobby knife
(be warned, the blade will
be blunted) but one of these
rotary strippers makes the
job so much easier.
and straightened for some time. Pulling it tight will help
straighten it. Even then, it will have a tendency to curl
back up again.
It’s a lot easier to work with small sections of coax so cut
as many lengths as elements you want, perhaps 150mm in
length – that gives you the 117mm element length required
plus about 15mm or so of inner conductor to join to the
next element.
Carefully remove the outer insulation, braid and inner
insulation (dielectric) from each end, leaving the inner
conductor poking out, so that you are left with lengths
measuring 117mm from insulation end to insulation end.
A sharp hobby knife can be used to cut coax and/or remove
insulation and braid but a rotary coax cutter makes this job
a lot easier and repeatable - but just be careful that you get
those lengths right.
And before you move on to the next sections, check the
Construction
There are several options available here – we’ll look at
just two of them. The first is arguably the more “permanent”
arrangement, and that requires soldering the elements
together. The downside of this is that it is quite easy to
damage or distort the dielectric, especially if it is foam,
which can degrade performance.
It is essential that new, unweathered coax cable be used
for this method because you need the solder to take to both
the braid and centre conductor very easily and quickly.
The second method doesn’t need soldering but relies
on a “friction fit” connection between centre conductor
and braid, held in place by the coax cable’s outer insulation. While this works well for a time, we’d be inclined to
think that eventually corrosion or weathering will make
the connection between the sections at best problematic.
Still, it’s a quick and easy way to make an antenna and has
many supporters on the ‘net.
Cutting the coax
You’ll need some nice, straight coax so if it has been
wound on a drum or coiled, it will need to be unwound
46 Silicon Chip
Here’s what you want to end up with: 12 (or 8, 6, etc)
identical lengths of coax cut to size and ready to be
assembled.
siliconchip.com.au
cut ends with a multimeter and/or a magnifying glass/
loupe. It’s far too easy to leave strands of wire which might
short between the braid and centre conductor, rendering
your antenna useless.
You should end up with absolutely identical lengths of
coax as shown in our pictures.
The next step depends on which of the two methods
above you’re going to use.
(a) Soldered collinear
This is not our preferred model, as soldering to co-ax
braid is not as easy as you might imagine. This is particularly so if (a) the braid is at all weathered or oxidised or
(b) if the outer braid is actually woven aluminium – that’s
very hard to solder to without special fluxes and solder.
But it can be done!
Remove another 10mm of outer insulation (only) from
each end of each of the prepared lengths, being careful not
to cut the braid underneath. Cut all the centre conductors
to 10mm. It will pay you to pre-tin all centre conductors
and a ‘strip’ along the braids, making sure the tinning is
on the same side as each other.
It’s also easiest to make a jig to solder the sections of
coax together because you need to ensure they go together
(a) in a ‘stepped’ straight line (see photo and diagram); (b)
with their ends actually touching each other, as long as the
braids and conductors aren’t shorting and (c) so that they
soldered elements are as mechanically rigid as possible.
Our photos should help explain this.
Repeat for all the elements (coax sections) but for the
top-most element, simply clip off the centre conductor so
it cannot short to the braid.
The bottom element connects directly to the coax lead-in
(to your receiver) in the same way as the rest of the elements
connect to each other.
Because you now have a number of exposed solder joints,
cover with some self-sealing adhesive tape to minimise
oxidation and corrosion.
This antenna needs to be housed a plastic conduit, just
like we did the wire collinear above. Simply follow those
details to weatherproof your coaxial collinear.
Slide a length of insulation tape over one of the centre
conductors. The tape is to prevent the two braids shorting
out when the elements are brought together.
Then pass the other centre conductor through the tape
as you bring the two elements together. Slide the centre
conductor from one between the outer insulation and braid
of the other . . . and vice versa.
(b) “Friction fit” collinear.
This is our preffered antenna because very little soldering is involved.
Prepare your elements in the same way as you did for
the soldered model but don’t remove any extra outer insulation – that is, the insulation, braid and inner insulation
should all be cut off cleanly, leaving the inner conductor
exposed. Shorten the centre conductors to about 10mm.
Cut a 75mm length of insulation tape and push one
conductor through the centre of the tape, close to one end.
Take the second element and push its centre conductor
through the tape from the opposite side about 3mm away
from the conductor already pushed through. Again, see the
photos to view this.
Now you have to carefully slide both centre conductors
between the outer insulation and the braid of the opposite
element. It may pay you to warm the outer insulation first
– say with a hair drier – if you have problems doing this.
Push the two elements together as far as they will go then
secure them in position using the insulation tape. As well
as holding the elements together, the tape prevents shorts
siliconchip.com.au
Continue pushing the two elements together until they
touch. You can see that they are slightly offset one to the
other and the tape forms an electrical barrier between
them.
Finally, wind the excess tape around the join to hold the
two elements together. You can relax – just as soon as
you’ve finished another 11 elements . . .
September 2013 47
CONDUIT
CAP
SNIP OFF
LAST WIRE
ELEMENT
N
20mm
CONDUIT
(LENGTH
TO SUIT
NUMBER
OF
ELEMENTS)
ELEMENT
3
Drill out a conduit end cap to accept a BNC connector and
solder its centre pin to the bottom element conductor. Force
a short length of wire between the insulation and braid,
and solder that to the BNC connector earth lug. These caps
(top as well) will need glueing to the conduit as they are
invariably a loose fit.
INSULATION
TAPE
BETWEEN
ELEMENTS –
WRAP AROUND
WHEN JOINED
ELEMENT
2
FORCE INNER
WIRES UNDER
OUTER COAX
INSULATION
(REPEAT FOR
EACH ELEMENT)
ELEMENT
1
SOLDER
BNC SOCKET
FITTED INTO
CONDUIT CAP
between the braids of the two cable sections.
Repeat these steps for as many elements as you have, as
well as the coax lead-in to your receiver. Once again, snip
off the centre conductor from the top wire.
Mount the antenna in a suitable length of electrical conduit as per the wire collinear above.
We mounted ours via a pair of worm-drive hose clamps
on a length of water pipe so its base ends up about 2-3m
above ground level. It would appear that the higher above
ground the antenna is erected, the better the performance.
However, that means a longer coax lead in with its own
losses at 1090MHz, so you might need a little experimenting to find the “sweet spot” of height vs loss.
And that’s it: two different collinears which will offer
better performance for ADSB reception than a simple
whip. Now if you want to make a collinear for a different
frequency, read on . . .
Our “friction fit”
collinear – we’ve
only shown four
elements but we
actually made it
from twelve. Any
more than this will
not give appreciably
better results. At
right is the antenna,
inside its conduit
housing, secured to
a pipe with a couple
of hose clamps. Lash
the coax to your
receiver to the pipe
for security against
wind damage.
Making a collinear for other frequencies
The above steps can be used to make coax collinears for any frequency or band you want to listen to. We’ve seen them made for
UHF CB, for 2.4GHz WiFi, for VHF amateur frequencies (2m, 6m, 70cm, etc) . . . we’ve even seen one monster made for the 20m
amateur band, hanging from a very tall tree!
Naturally, physical constraints come into play with lower frequencies – a 12-element coax collinear for the 80m amateur band
might be just a bit of a stretch (It would be a bit over 500m high!).
Simply remember that formula: wavelength = 300,000,000/frequency (Hz) [in metres]
So for that 20m (14MHz) amateur band collinear, the wavelength would be 300,000,000/14,000,000 or 21.42m and each element
(½ wave) would therefore be 10.71m long. From memory, it had four elements so was over 43m high.
Other common wavelengths:
WiFi band
(2.45GHz)
UHF CB band
(476MHz)
70cm amateur band
(say 430MHz*)
2m amateur band
(say 146MHz*)
Aircraft band
(say 125MHz*)
FM broadcast band
(say 100MHz*)
6m amateur band
(say 53MHz*)
48 Silicon Chip
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
122mm
630mm
680mm
2050mm
2400mm
3000mm
5660mm
For other frequencies you might want, simply use the formula shown
earlier. Remember, these are full wavelengths – multiply by 0.5 to
get 1/2 wave element length, by 0.25 to get a 1/4 wavelength and of
course by 0.75 to get a 3/4 wavelength.
* We have nominated frequencies which are either in the middle of
the band or where much of the action is located. (EG, aircraft band is
108-136MHz but voice communication is mostly towards the upper
end of the band).
SC
siliconchip.com.au
P
23 vali rice
d
PT /09/2 untis
ED E 013 l
SE
WINNING DEALS
FOR DAD'S DAY
Vertical Power Board with USB and
Surge Protection
Mini RC Helicopter
A versatile power board that stands vertically and has the convenience
of the two built-in USB ports to charge any USB product. Features 8
surge protected sockets, power overload protection, and
when it's not in use simply store the power cord in the
bottom of base. Perfect for under the desk or behind an
entertainment unit.
• Size: 225(H) x 170(W)
x 170(D)mm
MS-4023
$
6995
NEW KIT OF THE MONTH
Battery Saver Kit for Rechargeable
Lithium and SLA Batteries
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine 09/13
Cuts off the power between the battery and load when the
battery becomes flat to prevent the battery over-discharging
and becoming damaged. Suits SLA, Li-ion, Li-Po and
LiFePO4 batteries between 6 to 24V. Uses very little power
(<5uA) and handles 20A (30A peak). Supplied with double
sided, soldermasked and screen-printed PCB with SMDs
pre-soldered (apart from voltage setting resistors) and
components.
• PCB: 34 x 18.5mm
KC-5523
Advanced 3 channel chopper with
extremely stable flight control. Operates
over the 2.4GHz spectrum with extremely
good control over long distances and
feature flashing LEDs for
night flights.
Inspection Camera with 2.4" LCD
Inspect the inaccessible with this tiny 9mm diameter
CMOS colour camera with 1m reach. Features
forward facing controls,
comfortable pistol grip design
$
00
and adjustable LED brightness.
119
• 2.4" colour
LCD screen
• Requires
4 x AA
batteries
QC-8710
• Size: 182(H) x 82(W) x 55(D)mm
QM-1543
3995
Father’s Day Giveaway
with every
purchase
over $50.00
BUY QM-1543 & GET
QM-1502 DMM FREE
(Valued at $4.95)
$
$
FREE Spirit Level Keyring (TH-1931)
WINNING DEAL!
14900
While stocks last.
An easy way to compare the temperature between
surfaces. Simply point the thermometer at a
surface and press the trigger to set
a reference temperature. Then as
you move the thermometer to point
at another surface, the device will
produce an audible and visual warning
if the temperature has exceeded or
dropped below the reference point.
• Temperature: -50º-260ºC
(-58º-500ºF)
• 20:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Size: 170(H) x 125(D)
x 67(W)mm
QM-7211
2m Extension Shaft (QC-8702 $79) also available
WINNING DEAL!
BUY 2 for $70
SAVE $9.90
IP67 True RMS Digital Multimeter
Measures up to 1,000 volts AC & DC and is rated to Cat IV
600V. The meter includes temperature and capacitance
ranges, as well as peak-hold and min/max
options. Includes K-type thermocouple.
Non-Contact Thermometer
with Temperature Comparison
2995
See page 8 for
more RC Toys
• Remote requires 4 x AA batteries
• Fly up to 10 at once
without conflict
• Recommended for ages 14+
• Size: 195(L) x 95(H) x 44(W)mm
GT-3565
QM-1502
NEW
$
IT MB
IO E
N R
$
DVD/CD Player with
5 Disc Changer
Features a 5 DVD/CD changer which enables to load 4
discs while the other one is playing. It also has a Karaoke
CD+G function, two microphone inputs with individual
level controls and a USB, SD/MMC card reader for
complete playback flexibility. Mains powered.
• Formats: AVI, DIVX, MPEG2, MPEG4, WMA,
DAT, VOB, MP3, WAV
• Mains powered
$
00
• Size: 496(L) x 416(W)
x 152(H)mm
AA-0489 was $349.00
SAVE $50
299
11900
Network 4 Channel DVR Kit with 4 High Resolution Cameras
Digital Video Recorder with high resolution 600TV line cameras which can record video constantly, scheduled,
when motion is detected or alarm triggered. Composite and VGA output for local viewing, and an Ethernet
connection which can be configured for remote viewing using a web browser or iPhone®/Smartphone free app.
Supplied with 500GB HDD to record up to 300 hours of continuous video, 18m cables, mouse, remote control
and power supply. See website for full specifications.
• D1 resolution (704 x 576)
on each channel
• H.264 video compression
• Includes 4 colour
weatherproof CMOS
600 TV Line cameras
QV-3032 was $649.00
$
59900
SAVE $50
Monitor
also sold
separately
QM-3577
Add this
17" Monitor
for $150
(QV-3032)
+
12V Handheld Spotlight
40,000 Candle power 12V spotlight, features 44W
Halogen bulb. Comes with an adjustable
handle and a 3m curly cord with
cigarette lighter plug.
• Water resistant
• Size: 120(W) x 195(L) x
171(H)mm
ST-3266
(QV-3102)
4CH DVR KIT
Limited stock. Not available online.
17" Monitor
(QM-3577)
=
$749
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
WINNING
DEAL!!!
$
1495
See instore for LED Spotlights
September 2013 49
www.jaycar.com.au
TOOLS FOR THE WINNING DAD
Meters
Electric Screwdriver - 18 bits
Economy Non-Contact
Thermometer
Features a comfortable moulded grip, reverse and
forward modes, an LED to illuminate hard to see
spots, and carry pouch. The drill has three adjustable
configurations from the traditional gun
style to a cylindrical shape for
applying extra pressure
on stubborn screws
or bolts.
Safely measure temperature in hot,
hazardous, or hard to reach places with
the built-in laser pointer directed at the
surface. Provides several readings within
seconds. Compact and easy to use with
carry case included.
• 8:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Temperature range:
-30˚C to +260˚C (-22° to +500°F)
• Size: 131(H) x 96(W) x 35(D)mm
QM-7215
$
4995
Digital Sound Level Meter
Measures sound levels between 30 to
130dB and can be set for fast or slow
responses. Includes data hold and min/
max functions, as well as tripod mount.
Supplied with carry case and wind sock.
• 210(L) x 55(W) x
32(D)mm
QM-1589
$
9900
True RMS AC/DC
Clamp Meter
This meter will read up to 1000A AC or
DC. Ideal for electrical fitters and
contractors working with high currents.
See website for full specifications.
• 6000 count, Cat III 600V
• Autoranging
• Jaw opening: 40mm
• Size: 230(H) x
76(W) x 40(D)mm
$
QM-1566
• Mains charger included
• Size: 270(L) x 45(W) x
37(D)mm
TD-2497
Universal Drill
Press Stand
Convert your standard power drill or rotary
tool into a drill press with this adjustable
stand. Built-in press depth gauge for
accurate drilling and
adjustable limiting
$
95
brace.
29
• Drilling depth: Up to 60mm
• Size: 497(H) x 350(W) x 160(D)mm
TD-2463
Wireless Thermometers
In & Out LCD Thermometer
Keep an eye on the outdoor and indoor temperature
with ease. This thermometer is comprised of two
parts. An LCD display/receiver to keep inside and a
wireless outdoor temperature sensor which transmits
the outdoor temperature back to the display.
• Requires 4 x AAA batteries
• Receiver size: 86(H) x 57(W) x 18(D)mm
• Sensor size: 68(H) x
50(W) x 21(D)mm
XC-0321
FREE Spirit Level Keyring (TH-1931)
with every purchase
over $50.00
1995
Long Bit Screwdriver Set
Tackle a wide range of fastening
scenarios using our compact
screwdriver set comprised of a
selection of popular slotted,
Phillips, Star and TRI bits.
See website for contents.
• Temperature range: 0-50˚C (32˚F - 122˚F)
• Basic accuracy: ± 0.3˚C
• Size: 145(L)
x 57(W) x
35(D)mm
$
95
QM-7201
89
Hand Tools
Made of high quality stainless steel, these
pliers have half round smooth gripping
jaws perfect for adjusting and bending
components, picking
up dropped nuts etc.
Comfortable spring
WINNING DEAL!
loaded handles.
BUY 2 for $20
SAVE $7.90
• 145mm long
TH-1893
$
13 95
Phillips Screwdrivers
• 22-piece
TD-2114
This range of quality insulated screwdrivers
features an ergonomic handles with a soft
rubber coating for a secure, comfortable grip.
TUV and GS approved and rated up to 1kV.
2995
• A size for any application
Thread
Repair Kits
Phillips #0 x 60mm
Phillips #1 x 80mm
Phillips #2 x 100mm
Phillips #3 x 150mm
These thread repair kits
will enable you to drill out a
stripped or otherwise damaged
thread in a blind hole. Available
in M3, M4, M5 and M6 sizes.
10 inserts included in kit.
M3 Threads
M4 Threads
M5 Threads
M6 Threads
HP-1600 $24.95
HP-1602 $24.95
HP-1604 $24.95
HP-1606 $24.95
FROM
4
$ 95
Sheet Metal Bending Pliers
$
2495
EACH
Useful for monitoring temperature and humidity
sensitive areas. Displays real-time data, comfort
and trend indicators and stores min/max records.
Can support up to 8 indoor/outdoor sensors.
• Requires 6 x AAA batteries
• Size: 94(L) x
94(W)mm
XC-0328
Bend sheet metal easily with this
heavy duty offset hand tool. Features
strengthened rivets and dual layered
pitted handle for a firm grip.
• Jaw width: 75mm,
Jaw depth: 30mm
• Overall length:
210mm
TH-2336
$
2495
Ratchet Crimping Tool for
F-Type Connectors
A strong, heavy duty tool for crimping F-Type
CATV connectors onto RG6 or RG59 coax
cable. Ideal for
cable TV or RF
$
95
distributions
system installers.
29
3995
Spare sensor to suit also available XC-0329 $17.95
To order call 1800 022 888
TD-2235 $4.95
TD-2236 $5.65
TD-2237 $6.95
TD-2238 $7.45
Slotted Flat Blade
screwdrivers also available.
Ask in-store or visit website.
8 Channel Thermometer/
Hygrometer with Jumbo LCD
50 Silicon Chip
2
This non-contact thermometer uses infrared radiation
to instantly and accurately measure both body
temperature and surface temperature. It can
also link to your Smartphone with a free App
to track temperatures on a calendar, assist
with planning pregnancy, and much more.
See our website for info on the app.
Long Nose Pliers
While stocks last.
$
$
1995
Father’s Day Giveaway
$
13900
$
Non Contact Thermometer
with Smartphone App
• Secure ratchet
mechanism
TH-1831 was $39.95
SAVE $10
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/09/2013.
DIY FOR THE WINNING DAD
Home Security
Everything you need to get a basic
wireless system set up in your
home! Includes a key fob remote
control, backlit LCD control panel,
PIR sensor and two reed switches.
$
129
00
SAVE $20
• Back-up battery
• Size: 210(L) x 113(W) x
127(H)mm
LA-5145 was $149.00
Slimline Colour
7" LCD Video Door Phone
Screen your visitors without even going to your door. A
high resolution viewing screen allows you to see who is at
the door, while the intercom allows you to have a two way
conversation. For added security you can lock or unlock
your door with one touch (door locks available separately)
and even use it as an alarm system.
Easy to install.
$
17900
SAVE $20
$
15900
iPhone® not included
Soldering Iron Starter Kit
The ideal starter package for electronics enthusiasts
or the home handyman, this kit contains everything
needed for working on basic electronics projects or
automotive circuits. Includes a
digital multimeter, soldering
$
95
iron, de-soldering tool,
screwdrivers, pliers
and side cutters.
34
• 25W
TS-1652
12V Rotary Tool Set
• Up to 35m range
• Requires 2 x AAA batteries
• Size:110(L) x 45(W) x 27(H)mm
QM-1622
Also available:
NEW
$
12900
DUE MID SEPTEMBER
Automotive Crimp Tool with
Connectors
The tool will cut & strip wire, crimp connectors and
also cut a range of metric bolts. Every car enthusiast
should have one of these.
$
• Includes male &
female bullet &
spade connectors
+ eyes and butt
joiners.
TH-1848
BUY 2 for $30
SAVE $9.90
$
A professional grade laser distance meter
allows you to easily measure the distance
between two points, it can calculate the area
of a rectangle, the volume of a room, or the
height of a wall thanks to the in-built
Pythagoras calculator. Can store up to 20
measurements for quick referral and features
an illuminated screen for use in the dark.
QM-1624 $209.00
WINNING DEAL!
5995
DUE EARLY SEPTEMBER
Professional Laser Distance Meter
with Smartphone App NEW
• Case size: 205(L) x 110(W) x 35(H)mm
WH-5524
$
1495
Professional Laser
Distance Meter
Contains 160 lengths of different sizes from 1.5 to
10mm in black, red and clear in a handy storage case.
This 31 piece set is for the
ultra small screws found in
electronics. Consists of 9
metric screw cutting dies
and 18 equivalent taps in
the same sizes but with a taper and a
plug version of the tap. Supplied
in a see-through plastic case.
$
• Suits iPhone® 3G, 3GS, 4, 4s, 5
TD-2115
Heatshrink Assortment
Trade Pack
Mini Tap & Die Set
• Size: 83(W) x 153(L) x 12(D)mm
TD-2443
This tool kit allows you to
disassemble and
re-assemble your phone for
replacing cracked screens,
dead batteries, scratched
back panels and more. See
website for contents.
This quality kit contains a Portasol® Super Pro Gas
Soldering Iron featuring 90 minute run time, 10
second fill, maximum 1300˚C temperature and 40
second heat up. Cordless
freedom.
• Includes 2.4mm & 4.8mm
double flat tips, hot
air blow, hot knife
tip & air deflector,
storage case &
cleaning sponge
TS-1328
See online for our full
range of spare accessories.
• 7" TFT LCD screen
• CCD camera 420TVL
• Infrared for use at night
• Power supply included
• Monitor size: 235(L) x
165(H) x 24(D)mm
QC-3608 was $199.00
Limited stock. Not available online.
Tool Set Repair
Kit for iPhone®
Super Pro Gas
Soldering Tool Kit
8 Zone Wireless Alarm Kit
1995
13 95
Solar Powered Entry Chime
Drill, saw, sand, polish, carve or grind with
this comprehensive rotary tool set. Rated
12V and runs at 12,000 RPM and with
over 100 bits and attachments you'll be
able to cover every task imaginable.
Attach the wireless IR detector at the entrance & be alerted of customers or guests as they enter and
leave your premises. Installation is easy, the detector runs on 4 x AAA rechargeable batteries and is
topped by the solar panel charger included. The wireless receiver can be wall mounted, placed over the
counter, desk or wall mounted with no
messy wiring connections in between.
• 110 piece
• Case size: 240(L) x
200(W) x 70(D)mm
TD-2451
• Transmission range up to 100m
• IR detection range: 2 - 6m
• Detector size: 71mm high, Annunciator size: 143mm high
LA-5176
$
$
2995
Party
DMX LED Moving Head Spotlight
Compact, lightweight and cost effective.
Integrates a user selectable 540º pan
and 270º tilt, it has 9 gobos plus open
and wheel spin effect. With 14 DMX
channels, it features variable
electronic strobe and dimmer
functions.
• 15W RGBW LED light
• Mains powered
• Size: 249(H) x 173(W) x 173(D)mm
SL-3440
$
29900
9900
DMX Powered Laser Beam
This model features an XLR out plug that allows you to
daisy-chain multiple units together for full DMX controlled
visceral ambience. Mount to your speaker stand or other
frame work with the supplied bracket.
• Laser colour: red, green & yellow
• Sound control: Auto, DMX 512
(7 channels)
• Mains powered
• Size: 363(L) x
143(W) x
67(H)mm
SL-3451
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
NEW
$
199
00
19" Rack Mount DMX Controller
Control multiple DMX devices, such as lights,
dimmers, fog machines or laser shows with
preprogrammed scenes such as fade, pan, strobe,
colour etc. Rack-mountable and mains powered.
• Control up to 12 devices
• 16 channels per device
• 9V plugpack included
• Size: 482(W) x
133(H) x
70(D)mm
SL-3429
$
14900
September 2013 51
www.jaycar.com.au
3
AUTOMOTIVE
Reversing & Side-View Cameras
Vehicle Side View/Front View
Cameras
The camera is
inside a low
profile rubberised
housing only 20mm high with high-quality 3M
brand double-sided adhesive tape to permanently stick
the cameras in place. A special wedge is supplied for
each unit to get the view angle right. Ideal for caravan
use or for any vehicle and has night vision capability. Kit
comes with a left and right camera with power leads
(12V) and coaxial video leads.
NEW
$
• Waterproof
• 150º viewing angle
• Size: 70(W) x 38(D) x 24(H)mm
QC-3521
99
00
DUE MID SEPTEMBER
Mega Wide View Rear
Vision Camera
• 12V, 150W
• Modified sine wave
• Size: 130(L) x 60(Dia.)mm
MI-5121
Limited stock. Not available online
Please note: this product is intended to give
an indicative reading only and is carries no
guarantee of accuracy. Jaycar accepts no
responsibility for any consequence arising
from the use of this device.
WINNING DEAL!
FREE
Replacement Mouth
Pieces Pk10 (QM-7297)
WORTH $9.95
Replacement mouth pieces pk10
also available QM-7297 $9.95
• Includes 2 x AAA batteries
• Size: 156mm long
QP-2293
11900
DUE MID SEPTEMBER
Auto Shutter Reversing Camera
Ideal for trucks, buses and caravans, however can be
mounted behind a rear windscreen with the shutter
disabled. Shutter opens when
it senses +12V from your
reversing lights. Equipped
with a black metal shutter to
protect the unit from flying
stones etc. IP68 rated.
$
NEW
$
199
$
$
00
SOLD AS
A PAIR!
6995
PAIR
• Display resolution: 0.1V
• Operating voltage: 8 - 28VDC
QP-2220
In-Car Sound!
• Sold as a pair
2 Way 5" 50WRMS
CS-2401 $79.95
FROM
2 Way 6" 75WRMS
CS-2402 $89.95
2 Way 6 x 9" 75WRMS
CS-2403 $119.00
$
69
CS-2400
95
PAIR
CS-2403
52 Silicon Chip
4
• Size: 220(L) x
215(W) x 295(H)mm
MB-3594 was $149
$
11900
SAVE $30
To order call 1800 022 888
Simply plugs into a cigarette
lighter socket and will play audio
tracks from a SD/MMC card, USB
flash drive, iPod®, or MP3 player
directly through the FM band on
the car stereo.
WINNING DEAL!
BUY 2 for $20
SAVE $9.90
$
1495
Extremely strong suction mount joined
to a tough flexible gooseneck. Suits a
wide variety of Smartphones so you
can access your phone while in your
vehicle. The cradle can be rotated for
portrait or landscape view.
Check the voltage output of a car's
battery quickly and easily.
Simply plug this handy
voltmeter into the cigarette
lighter socket and get an
instant readout.
SAVE $5
Contents not included
Your personal roadside assistant! Includes heavy duty
insulated jumper leads, a 400W inverter, LED work
light, 12V power outlets, status gauges, and even a
260PSI air compressor! Powered from the built-in
18Ah SLA battery and comes
with mains and 12V
charging cables.
Suction Mount Bracket
for Smartphones
Car Battery Monitor
1995
5-in-1 Jump Starter
• Includes a remote control
• Size: 130(L) x 40(W) x 25(H)mm
AR-3120
DUE MID SEPTEMBER
$
2495
Car Essentials!
Our ever popular Response Precision Kevlar Coaxial Speakers that
has won many awards and magazine recommendations. The speaker
cone is supplied in black and the soft dome tweeters provide clean,
crisp sound and maintains a natural and smooth balanced sound.
CS-2400 $69.95
14
95
$
Rechargeable UHF Transceiver Play MP3 Music Over
Features a built-in LED torch to read maps in the dark
your Car Stereo
whilst out in the bush. It does all the normal CB
• 80 channel
• Power output: 0.5W
• Up to 3km range
DC-1009
Perfect for keeping Dads mobile
phones or GPS's safe while
parked. Secure under the seat
or in the boot of your car with
the included alloy cable strap.
2 Way 4" 40WRMS
4995
functions and includes a desktop charging
cradle, AC adaptor, two transceivers
and batteries.
Portable Car Safe
• Weight: 1.3kg
• Size: 210(L) x 150(W) x
68(H)mm
HB-5455 was $24.95
• Accuracy of .04mg/L
• Backlit LCD
• Requires 3 x AAA batteries
QM-7296
Designed to fit perfectly into Dad's
car drink holder. Ideal for providing
mains power without the space or
mounting requirements of a full
size inverter.
Keep track of tyre pressure and avoid pressure
related problems. Measures pressure from 5 to
100PSI and includes an
integrated torch for
night time use.
NEW
$
• 120˚ viewing angle
• 12VDC power
• Size: 78(W) x 65(H) x 60(D)mm
QC-3522
Can-Sized Inverter
Don't get behind the wheel if
you're over the limit. Test
yourself first with your own
breathalyser. It takes a reading in
less than five seconds and can
sound an alarm at a preset level.
Digital Tyre Pressure Gauge
This unit gives you a mega wide 180˚
viewing angle instead of the usual
fish eye. Simply mount on any flat
surface through an 18mm hole
(hole saw bit is supplied). Water
resistant IP68 rated camera.
• Will work as all round
side view camera
• Size: 22(Dia.)mm
including bezel
QC-3520
LCD Alcohol Tester
$
1995
• Size: 235(L) x 84(W)mm
HS-9030
iPhone® not included
$
1995
Car Power Extender
with Phone Holder
Sits in the vehicle's cup holder and
doubles the cigarette power sockets
and provides two USB ports to
power two gadgets at once. A
perfect accessory for Dad's car!
• 12VDC
• 1.6m long curly cord
• Size: 100(L) x 70 (Dia.)mm
PS-2122
Accessories not included
$
2495
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/09/2013.
POWER
Mains Power
12V & 24V Power
Mains Surge Protectors
NEW Pure Sine Wave Inverters
These two mains surge protectors
alleviate the majority of problems caused
by spikes and surges in voltage which
can damage delicate and expensive
appliances connected to your power
outlets. Each model has three-way
protection across active-neutral, activeearth and neutral-earth and is fully
approved for electrical safety.
These new inverters provide standard protection as
well as host of additional features to improved
performance and reliability under adverse conditions,
including a soft start feature to reduce inverter
overload when used on large appliances. All models
include a standard 230VAC mains
outlet and a USB port for
powering and charging
USB devices. See the
website for full
specifications.
• 240VAC 50Hz 10A
Single Power Point & Phone
MS-4017 $12.95
Double Power Point
FROM
$
MS-4015 $10.95
10 95
IR Controlled Wireless Mains Sockets
These wireless sockets can be programmed and assigned
to an unsued button on a TV or other remote control to turn
them on and off. Allows multiple sockets to be controlled
from the one button or assign one button per socket.
Includes IR receiver units and 2 wireless mains sockets.
• Up to 20m range
• 10A, 2400W rated
MS-6158
$
12V 180W
12V 360W
12V 800W
12V 1500W
12V 2000W
24V 2000W
MI-5700
MI-5702
MI-5704
MI-5708
MI-5710
MI-5712
$189.00
$229.00
$399.00
$849.00
$1099.00
$1099.00
Rechargeable Automotive
Work Light
A functional 200 lumen work light no motor
enthusiast should be without. Affix to any
metallic surface via magnetic base and back.
Adjust direction of light using multi-position
stand. Use it like a torch or hang it off your
car bonnet.
• Rechargeable Lithium battery
• 3 x 1W CREE® LEDs with optical lens for
better focus
• Size: 280(L) x 62(W)
$
95
x 44(D)mm
SAVE $10
ST-3261 was $59.95
49
Rechargeable CREE® XML
Spotlight with Digital Display
FROM
A powerful spotlight that will output up to 550 lumens
thanks to the new efficient CREE® XML LED.
Features a digital readout to show
WINNING DEAL! remaining burn time and dual
9-Stage Switchmode BU
Y MB-3608 & swivel handle. Mains and car
Battery Charger
GET MB-3603 FREE cigarette lighter plug chargers
included.
Nine step fully automatic 25A high
worth $49.95
current charger with maintenance
• 2 x LED map reading light
charging of all types of lead-acid
$
00
• Size: 285(L) x 166(W) x
batteries (SLA, Gel and AGM) as
197(H)mm (folded)
$
95
well as lead-calcium batteries from 50 - 500Ah, either
ST-3314
12V or 24V. The electronics are fully microprocessor
controlled and protected against user error, so is totally
Intelligent Battery Charger
safe to leave connected for months at a time. Perfect for
Charge and maintain 12V batteries with this
caravan and boat users. See
microprocessor controlled charger. Features reverse
our website to download
polarity protection, overheat protection, voltage
full product info sheet.
compensation, fan cooling and more. 5 stage charging
• IP44 Rated
(soft start, bulk charging, absorption, float and pulse).
• Size: 260(L) x
• Suits WET/Flooded, GEL, AGM,
135(W) x
MF, VRLA, Calcium type lead
70(H)mm
acid rechargeable batteries
MB-3608
• 12V 10A
Also available:
• Size: 230(H) x 170(W) x
3-Stage 6/12V Automatic
140(D)mm
Battery Charger MB-3603 $49.95
MB-3603
MB-3625
$
18900
399
3995
Spare Wireless Mains Socket MS-6157 $14.95
USB Mains Power Adaptors
Charge an array of mobile phones, Tablets, or MP3
players with ease. With 2.1A output current, it will
comfortably charge a Smartphone,
iPad® or other Tablet at full speed.
Worldwide voltage input makes it
FROM
ideal for travellers. Lead not
$
95
included.
19
• Input voltage: 100-240VAC,
50/60Hz
2.1A
• Output: 5VDC, 2.1A
• Size: 58(W) x 54(L) x 35(H)mm
MP-3456 $19.95
2 x 2.1A
• Output: 5VDC, 2.1A + 2.1A
(4.2A total)
• Size: 60(W) x 60(H) x 30(D)mm
MP-3459 $24.95
69
Dual Battery Volt/Current Monitor
This digital battery monitor will check your main
battery voltage and the total battery activity of your
auxiliary battery. Excellent for boats or caravans/RVs,
especially when running refrigeration products.
250A current shunt supplied.
• Front panel size: 72(W) x 65(H)mm
• Mounting hole: 2" or 52mm
MS-6176
Home Lighting
$
14900
$
9995
Give Dad a
Jaycar Gift
Card this
Father’s Day
LED downlights have a lot of benefits over their traditional halogen counterparts, the biggest of which are their significantly lower power consumption (around 70-90% less), longer life
expentancy (50,000 vs 2,000 hours) and significantly lower heat generation. Featuring 24 of the highest output 2835-type SMD LEDs, they put out over 450 lumens of warm white or
cool white light with either 120˚ or 60˚ beam. Installation is easy as replacing a globe. Ideal for caravans and mobile homes, household lighting, shop fittings, or anywhere a
bright downlight is required.
MR16 LED Downlights
GU10 Mains LED Downlights
• 12VAC/DC, 4W
• MR16 24 x 2835 SMD LED
120˚
120˚
60˚
60˚
Cool White
Warm White
Cool White
Warm White
ZD-0540 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0541 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0542 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0543 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
siliconchip.com.au
Better, More Technical
• 240VAC, 4W
• GU10 24 x 2835 SMD LED
FROM
$
1495
SAVE $5
120˚
120˚
60˚
60˚
Cool White
Warm White
Cool White
Warm White
ZD-0544 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0545 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0546 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
ZD-0547 was $19.95 now $14.95 save $5
FROM
$
1495
SAVE $5
September 2013 53
www.jaycar.com.au
5
TECH GADGETS FOR THE WINNING DAD
Portable Speakers
Near Field Audio Wireless Speaker
Place your Smartphone or iPod Touch® on top of this
speaker to wirelessly amplify the music playing from its
loudspeaker. Powered either
by batteries (not included)
or via USB.
• Output: 2 x 2WRMS,
1 x bass booster
• 5VDC power in
• Size: 155(L) x 71(W) x 38(H)mm
XC-5220 iPhone® not included
$
3995
Portable Mini Speaker
Rechargeable amplified stereo speaker that connects to an
iPod®, iPad®, MP3 player, Smartphone or computer. It can
also play a microSD card full of
music files. Internal Li-ion
$
95
battery recharges via USB.
39
• Output: 3 + 3WRMS
• Size: 74(L) x 50(W) x
52(H)mm
XC-5176 iPhone® not included
Mini Portable Bluetooth®
Speaker System
Take your music anywhere with this rechargeable
Bluetooth® mini portable speaker system. Don't let its
lightweight design and size fool you: It produces quality
sound! Includes Bluetooth® connectivity and a 3.5mm
auxiliary port for universal connection.
• Stream music wirelessly
iPhone® not
included
from any Bluetooth®
music player
• Answer phone calls
wirelessly from any
Bluetooth® smartphone
• Built-in rechargeable battery
NEW
• Size: 53(L) x 168(W) x 38(H)mm
$
95
XC-5207
Also available: Bluetooth® Speaker System XC-5206 $69.95
59
Outdoor USB Solar Charger
High Definition
1080p Web Camera
Enjoy making high-resolution
videos for YouTube or chatting online.
Features a built-in mic and capable of taking
12MP still images (Software enhanced).
This unit has a huge 5000mAh
capacity and outputs up to 2A
so it can charge an iPad® with
ease. It allows you to charge
2 devices at once. Unit is
rechargeable via USB.
Weatherproof Time Lapse HD Camera
39
Bluetooth® Keyring Locator
with App for iPhone®
A massive range of easy to fly helicopters that Dad will love for Father's Day.
• 3-channel
• Recommended for ages 14+
• Gyroscope for stable flight • Common spare parts included with all helicopters
Single Blade RC Helicopter with Video Recording
Capture the thrills and spills of your aerial stunts with this highly
manoeuvrable chopper.
3495
• Supports USB memory sticks up to 8GB
• 1280 x 1024 resolution
• Size: 192(H) x 93(W)
$
00
x 60(D)mm
QC-8030
199
Time Lapse HD Video Camera
with LCD Viewfinder
• Frame the subject using
the LCD viewfinder and 120
degree rotatable lens
• Supports SD card up to 32GB
• 1280 x 720, 640 x 480 resolution
• Power by 4 x AA batteries (included)
or via USB (USB cable required)
• Size: 106(H) x 64(W)
x 46(D)mm
$
00
QC-8034
229
Double Blade RC Helicopter
Fly up to 2 at the same time without conflict!
• 27MHz transmitter
• Remote requires 4 x AA batteries
• Size: 450(L) x 83(W) x 200(H)mm
GT-3530 was $59.95
$
5495
SAVE $5
Water Cannon Equipped RC Helicopter
Fly up to 3 at the same time without conflict!
$
9900
• Shoots a stream of water up to 1m
• IR transmitter
• Remote requires 6 x AA batteries
• Size: 240(L) x 117(H) x 47(W)mm
GT-3496 was $49.95
54 Silicon Chip
6
View demo
videos on
our website
• 2GB memory card/stick included
• PC, media player or suitable TV playback
• Included: Apple® connector, micro USB, mini USB
• Output voltage: 5V
$
95
• Size: 109(L) x 76(W) x 16(H)mm
MB-3644 was $59.95
SAVE $20
WINNING Choppers for Dad!
4995
Create amazing time lapse videos in high
definition for all sorts of projects and
hobbies. Two models available which
are great fun for Dad!
Portable Power Bank
$
$
Time Lapse HD Cameras
• Search Range: 20m
• Size: 60(L) x 35(W) x
10(H)mm
XC-0365
• 27MHz transmitter
• 1GB microSD card included
• Video capture: 640 x 480 <at>30fps
• Image capture: 640 x 480 JPG
• Remote requires 4 x AA batteries
• Size: 495(L) x 65(W) x 14(H)mm
GT-3562
• Includes 30 pin iPhone®
connector, Mini USB,
Micro-B USB, Nokia connector
• Mains adaptor included
• Size: 80(Dia.) x 15(H)mm
MB-3651
iPhone® not included
• Size: 127(W) x 30(H)
x 96(D)mm
YN-8361
5995
3495
Convenient and attractive mains
charger for Smartphone or MP3
player. Features a magnetic
connectors for easy connect and
disconnect a device.
Add Wi-Fi capability to your array of home entertainment
devices. For those Ethernet only Smart TV’s, Game
Consoles, Blue Ray Players, this
device allows them to connect to
your wireless router for
internet connectivity.
$
$
4-in-1 Magnetic
Charging Hub
Wi-Fi Bridge for Smart TVs
and Media Centres
• Output Voltage: 5VDC
• Size: 250(H) x 170(W) x 15(D)mm
MB-3593 was $44.95
iPhone® not included
SAVE $5
• Size: 73(L) x 69(W) x 10(D)mm
MB-3605
39
An electronic leash that will sound an alarm when
your iPhone® leaves your vicinity. You can also
use your iPhone® to find the lost keyring.
3995
This compact unit provides
emergency power for your iPhone 5®
and similar products. It is fitted with
a Lightning™ connector for your
phone and a USB plug for the
module to be recharged.
• Full HD 1080p video recording
• High quality 5MP wide angle lens
• Multi-functional clip with
DUE EARLY SEPTEMBER
360 degree rotation
• Built-in microphones with
$
95
automatic noise reduction
QC-3205
Also available 720p Web Camera NEW QC-3203 $29.95
Provides a 5V USB port suitable for
charging devices such as Media
Players and Smartphones. Attach
it to a backpack, tent, or bike
using the elastic strap and
clips to charge on the go.
$
iPhone® Battery
Backup Module
To order call 1800 022 888
$
4495
SAVE $5
siliconchip.com.au
All savings based on Original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Prices valid until 23/09/2013.
ARDUINO FOR THE WINNING DAD
ARDUINO Modules
USB-Boost Module - Arduino
Compatible
Takes a power input of 1.2 to 4.5V, and boosts it to a
regulated 5V output up to 500mA. Perfect for powering
Arduino projects from batteries, such as a single 3.7V
Li-Po cell. Includes status outputs so your
microcontroller can actively
monitor the status of the
power supply.
• USB output jack
• Low-battery warning LED
• Size: 46(W) x 21(H) x 10(D)mm
XC-4239
NEW
$
1295
4 Channel Relay Driver
Module for Arduino
Isolates your microcontroller from the relay coils using
FETs, includes back-EMF protection, and
works with a wide range of relays.
• Individual LED status display on
every output channel
• Drive relay coils of 5VDC to 24VDC
• Size: 36(W) x 23(H) x 12(D)mm
XC-4278
8 Channel Relay Driver Shield
also available XC-4276 $34.95
$
13
95
EtherMega, Mega Sized Arduino Compatible with Ethernet
The ultimate network-connected Arduino-compatible board: combining an ATmega2560 MCU, onboard Ethernet, a USBserial converter, a microSD card slot for storing gigabytes of web server content or data, Powerover- Ethernet support,
and even an onboard switchmode voltage regulator so it can run on up to 28VDC without overheating.
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built in
• 16 analogue inputs
• Prototyping area
XC-4256
• 54 digital I/O lines
• microSD memory card slot
• Size: 105(W) x 54(H)
x 19(D)mm
• -4°C to +125°C temperature
range with +/-0.5°C accuracy
• 0-100% relative humidity
with 2-5% accuracy
• 3 to 5V operation
• Size: 31(W) x 23(H) x 4(D)mm
XC-4246
$
19
95
ATmega328P MCU with
Arduino Uno Bootloader
Comes with the Arduino Uno bootloader preinstalled and features a special label on
top which details the pinouts.
• 28-pin DIP format for easy
use in breadboards or
Arduino compatible boards
ZZ-8726
$
995
For the Kit Loving Dad
USB Port Voltage Checker Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine July 2013
An easy way to test a USB port to see if it is dead,
faulty or incorrectly wired to help prevent damaging
a valuable USB device you plan to connect. Voltage
is indicated using three LEDs. Kit supplied with
double sided, solder masked and screen-printed
PCB with SMDs pre-soldered, clear heat shrink, USB
connectors and components for
USB 2.0 & 3.0.
$
95
• PCB: 44 x 17mm
KC-5522
29
11900
Also available: Mega Prototyping Shield for Arduino to suit XC-4257 $17.95
EtherTen, Arduino Compatible
with Onboard Ethernet
Includes onboard Ethernet, a mini USB connector, a
microSD card slot for storing gigabytes of
web server content or data, and
even Power-over-Ethernet
support.
• ATmega328P MCU
running at 16MHz
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built in
• Used as a web server, remote
monitoring and control, home automation projects
• 8 analogue inputs
• Size: 76(W) x 54(D) x 19(H)mm
$
95
XC-4216
69
Humidity & Temperature Sensor Large Dot Matrix LED Display
Panel - Blue
Module for Arduino
Measure temperature and relative humidity using a
simple interface that requires just three wires to the
sensor: GND, power, and data.
$
A huge dot matrix LED panel to connect to your
Freetronics Eleven, EtherTen and more! This large,
bright 512 LED matrix panel has on-board controller
circuitry designed to make it easy to use straight from
your board. Clocks, status displays, graphics readouts
and all kinds of impressive display projects are ready
to create with this display’s features.
• 32 x 16 high
brightness Blue
LEDs (512 LEDs
total) on a 10mm
pitch
• 5V operation
• Viewable over 12
metres away
• Tough plastic frame
• Size: 320(W) x 160(H)
x 14(D)mm
XC-4251
Can for size comparison only
$
8995
Speed Control Kit for
Induction Motors
Please note that this is an
advanced project for an
experienced constructor.
Better, More Technical
Directly drive DC motors using your Arduino compatible
board and this shield, which provides PWM (Pulse-Width
Modulation) motor output on 2 H-bridge channels to let
your board control the speed, direction and power of two
motors independently. Perfect for
robotics and motor control projects.
• Drives up to 2A per motor channel
• Size: 60(L) x
54(W) x
NEW
12(D)mm
$
95
XC-4264
29
RFID Lock Shield Kit Arduino Compatible
This shield allows your Arduino to
control a door lock using an electric
strike plate and one of a number of
commonly available RFID modules.
• Supported readers include
ID12, ID20, RDM630, RDM880,
and HF MultiTag
• Size: 49(W) x 54(D) x 27(H)mm
XC-4215
NEW
$
2995
This shield allows up to 4 security sensors to be
connected to an Arduino with full End-Of-Line(EOL)
support to detect tampering with the sensors or cable.
EOL technology allows the system to
detect a variety of events using a
single cable pair to the sensor.
• 4 sensor channels
• Supports PIR motion sensors,
microwave sensors, glass break
detectors etc.
• Status LEDs on each channel
• Size: 60(W) x 54(D) x 17(H)mm
XC-4217
NEW
$
2795
USB Power Monitor Kit
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine April/May 2012 + Aug 2013
Control induction motors* up to 1.5kW (2HP) to run
machinery at different speeds or controlling a pool
pump to save money. Also works with 3-phase motors.
Full form kit includes case, PCB, heatsink, cooling fan,
hardware and electronics
(including revisions from the
August Silicon Chip article).
KC-5509
siliconchip.com.au
H-Bridge Motor Driver
Shield for Arduino
Security Sensor Shield
Also available: Large Dot Matrix LED Display
Panel - Red XC-4250 $39.95
*Does not work for motors with
centrifugal switch
ARDUINO Shields
$
24900
Refer: Silicon Chip Magazine December 2012
Plug this kit inline with a USB device to display the current
that is drawn at any given time. Check the total power
draw from an unpowered hub and its attached devices or
what impact a USB device has on your laptop battery life.
Displays current, voltage or power, is auto-ranging and
will read as low as a few microamps and up to over an
amp. Kit supplied with double sided, soldermasked and
screen-printed PCB with SMD
components presoldered, LCD
$
95
screen, and
components.
59
• PCB: 65 x 36mm
KC-5516
Laptop not included
September 2013 55
www.jaycar.com.au
7
GIFTS FOR THE WINNING DAD
4 Channel IR Helicopter
HD Car Event Recorder with LCD
• 5MP HD sensor
• Cycled recording
• Video format: H.264/AVI
• Motion detection function
• Supports SDHC cards
up to 32GB
• Size: 100(L) x 60(W) x 23(D)mm
QV-3840
$
• IR transmitter
• Gyroscope and 4
motors for stable flight
• 50min charge time gives
about 7min flight time
• Remote requires
6 x AA batteries
• Recommended for ages 14+
• Size: 230mm long
GT-3386 was $39.95
14900
$
A tri-band compact, portable AM/FM/SW radio with
built-in MP3 player and digital clock. Supports USB
flash drive and microSD card (32GB max).
2995
• Built-in rechargeable Li-ion battery
• Size: 114(L) x 70(H) x 25(D)mm
AR-1721
Rip up a dirt track straight out of the box.
Features digital proportional steering and
throttle control for a more life-like
driving experience.
6900
• 4 wheel suspension
with shock absorbers
• 2.4GHz gun style remote
• Remote requires 4 x AA batteries
• Recommended for ages 14+
• Size: 485(L) x 300(W) x 150(H)mm
GT-3790
Register online today by visiting
www.jaycar.com.au/rewards
www.jaycar.co.nz/rewards
WINNING DEAL!
BUY 2 for $50
SAVE $9.90
$
$
Digital Luggage Scale
Work out the distance between two points on a map or
chart. The scale can be adjusted on
each map and the LCD screen
has a backlight for night use
and an LED flash light.
Luggage scales that double as a great fishing scale to
prove how much your Monster fish weighed!
• 40kg capacity
QM-7232
• Battery included
• Size: 23(L) x 35(H) x 5(W)mm
XC-0374
95
$
2995
PLL World Band Radio
7995
Digital Map Measurer
Great Gifts for the Great Dad!
iPhone® not included
AM/FM/SW Rechargeable
Radio with MP3
1:10 Scale Remote
Controlled Buggy
Jaycar Customer Loyalty
Program - JOIN NOW!
19
SAVE $5
119
• 10 hour
playtime
• Size: 230(L)
x 102(W) x
67(D)mm
XC-5208
For the Music Loving Dad!
• 27MHz gun style remote
• Average 5-8min drive time
• Remote requires
4 x AA batteries
• Recommended for ages 8+
• Size: 270mm long
GT-3794
Be Rewarded...
$
3495
Featuring rear wheel drive, full suspension & front & rear
bumpers, this fantastic little unit is made for off-road use.
Ultra portable, compact HD video camera
and recorder has 2GB of internal memory
that will hold up to 50 minutes of video
(20 minutes in high defintion) or over
3000 photos. Recharges via USB and will
gives about 4 hours of use. Pocket clip
and desk stand included.
$
$
A rugged, waterproof Bluetooth® speaker, paired with
a Smartphone it allows you to listen to music easily
and have phone conversations through the speaker
thanks to the built-in microphone. Black shock
resistant, rubberised edges and handles make this the
perfect companion for outdoor
activities. It even floats!
$
00
1:24 Scale Electric RC Truggy
3MP Mini HD Digital
Video Camera
• Supports up to 32GB MicroSD card
• Weighs only 25g
• Size: 23(H) x 78(H) x 14(D)mm
QC-8005
Rechargeable Waterproof
Bluetooth® Speaker
Fly up to 3 at the same time without conflict!
Records the vision through the windscreen as you drive,
which can be played back on the colour 2.4" colour LCD
to prove what happened in a car accident.
Requires SD memory card (available
separately) and features HDMI output,
JPG snapshot, and 2 bright LEDs to
improve night time recording.
Receives FM, AM(MW, with 9k or 10k step), SW, LW,
AIR bands and uses Phase Locked Loop (PLL)
technology to ensure rock-steady, drift free reception.
Features sleep function, 500 programmable stations
and manual, auto or preset station search.
• Requires 2 x AA batteries
• Size: 120(W) x 75(H) x
30(D)mm
AR-1733
$
995
5995
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE - Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
• AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Ph (02) 6239 1801
• NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Alexandria
Bankstown
Blacktown
Bondi Junction
Brookvale
Campbelltown WE HAVE MOVED
Castle Hill
Coffs Harbour
Croydon
Erina
Gore Hill
Hornsby
Liverpool
Maitland
Newcastle
Penrith
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Ph (02) 9678 9669
Ph (02) 9369 3899
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Ph (02) 4620 7155
Ph (02) 9634 4470
Ph (02) 6651 5238
Ph (02) 9799 0402
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Ph (02) 9439 4799
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Ph (02) 9821 3100
Ph (02) 4934 4911
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Port Macquarie
Rydalmere
Sydney City
Taren Point
NEW
Tuggerah
Tweed Heads WE HAVE MOVED
Wagga Wagga
NEW
Warners Bay
Wollongong
• NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
56 S
C
Ph (08) 8948 4043
• QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Browns Plains
Caboolture
Cairns
Caloundra
Capalaba
Ipswich
Labrador
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were
confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes
occur. Please ring your local store to check stock details.
ilicon
hip
Prices valid from 24th
August 2013
to 23rd September 2013.
Ph (02) 6581 4476
Ph (02) 8832 3120
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Ph (02) 4353 5016
Ph (07) 5524 6566
Ph (02) 6931 9333
Ph (02) 4954 8100
Ph (02) 4226 7089
NEW
NEW
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Ph (07) 3800 0877
Ph (07) 5432 3152
Ph (07) 4041 6747
Ph (07) 5491 1000
Ph (07) 3245 2014
Ph (07) 3282 5800
Ph (07) 5537 4295
HEAD OFFICE
Mackay
Maroochydore
Mermaid Beach
Nth Rockhampton
Townsville
NEW
Strathpine
Underwood WE HAVE MOVED
Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 4953 0611
Ph (07) 5479 3511
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Ph (07) 4926 4155
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Ph (07) 3889 6910
Ph (07) 3841 4888
Ph (07) 3393 0777
• SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Clovelly Park
Elizabeth
Gepps Cross
Reynella
• TASMANIA
Hobart
Launceston
• VICTORIA
Cheltenham
Coburg
320 Victoria Road, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100 Fax: (02) 8832 3169
NEW
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Ph (08) 8276 6901
Ph (08) 8255 6999
Ph (08) 8262 3200
Ph (08) 8387 3847
Ph (03) 6272 9955
Ph (03) 6334 2777
Ph (03) 9585 5011
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Ferntree Gully
Frankston
Geelong
Hallam
Kew East
Melbourne
Ringwood
Shepparton
Springvale
Sunshine
Thomastown
Werribee
Ph (03) 9758 5500
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Ph (03) 9796 4577
Ph (03) 9859 6188
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SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Another day, another dropped phone or tablet
You have to be adaptable to stay in the servicing
business. With consumers turning increasingly
to smartphones and tablets, often at the expense
of traditional PCs, it’s been necessary to acquire
the specialised skills to take on repair jobs for
these devices as well.
I
N MY ROLE as a computer serviceman, I get to witness an ever-changing industry. We often make jokes
about how the hardware we buy today
has already been superseded but in
this case, that’s not what I’m referring
to. Instead, I’m talking about service
and support, which must constantly
change in parallel with the evolution
of the hardware that makes up the IT
industry.
For example, the desktop personal
computer we have known and loved
for the last 30 years no longer reigns
supreme, with global sales in their
worst-ever slump and almost no hope
of recovery. The result is that laptops
nowadays easily outsell desktops but
even that situation is changing as sales
of tablets and smart-phones take over
as our most-purchased technology.
That means that any serviceman
who relies solely on supporting traditional desktop and laptop computers
will eventually go out of business
unless he up-skills and reinvents
his operations to include these newfangled devices.
This view isn’t simply based on
doom-and-gloom newspaper stories
or articles in technical publications.
Over the past 12 months, I’ve noticed a significant decline in desktop
computer repairs, with many clients
opting to forgo repairing or rebuilding their broken desktop machines in
favour of putting their money into a
new machine, usually a “high-spec”
laptop or tablet. Of course, the same
thing is also happening with laptops,
albeit to a lesser extent, with owners
often migrating to a tablet when their
laptop gives up the ghost.
This is all very well and can be put
down to the inexorable march of technology. As a result, I see a time in the
not too distant future when hardware
manufacturers will phase out desktop
specific hardware such as memory
modules, motherboards and graphics
cards and move instead to producing
hardware and peripherals for technology that is selling in bigger numbers
such as laptops, tablets or the new
micro-factor PCs. These new-fangled
desktop-replacement computers, using laptop RAM modules and smallform solid-state hard drives (SSDs),
could be designed to mount on the
back of a standard monitor using existing VESA mounting points.
Miniaturisation is a natural evolution in all things electronic and will
allow us to reclaim some of our desk
space. However, these new devices
will have hard-wired CPUs, graphics,
sound and networking all crammed
onto a tiny motherboard and manu-
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
58 Silicon Chip
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
Repairing smartphone &
tablets
• Onix DVD player repair
• Noisy Sony ICF-M350S transistor radio
• A real laptop saga
• DGTEC set-top box repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
facturers can already wring reasonable
performance from very small packages. Unfortunately, the introduction
of this technology could mean that the
days of cheap, ordinary-sized desktop
boxes are numbered.
No doubt, the new miniature “average-spec” machines will suffice for
many existing desktop computer users
but it could mean that the only traditional desktop hardware available in
the future will be higher-end components made especially for the gaming
and graphics markets. This hardware
will likely be far more expensive than
it is today and the choices more limited
for anyone requiring the sort of grunt
found only in full-sized machines.
The fact is, these days more people
– even us ‘oldies’ – are using smart
phones to do more than make the odd
call or send text messages. Now we
are also likely to take photos or video,
update our Facebook page, tweet, chat
to friends, check our email, find the
local pub and even pay for parking
and petrol for the car while the home
computer sits gathering dust.
And so, when their desktop eventually fails (as they all inevitably do),
I’ve noticed an emerging pattern where
owners will opt for either an iPad or an
iMac if they already use an iPhone or
they’ll go for a Windows or Androidbased tablet or netbook if they use a
smartphone running one those operating systems. Basically, they’re aiming
siliconchip.com.au
to unify the operating system across
all their devices, something manufacturers are hoping all end-users will
ultimately do.
What this means for servicemen like
me is that the landscape is rapidly
changing. And unless we change with
it, service and support as we know it
will become obsolete.
Our workshop team used to provide
a huge range of support for all manner
of computers but that’s now changed.
Bread and butter work that once kept
us in beer and chips can now be mostly
done by end-users with zero technical
understanding thanks to clever installation routines and ever-evolving operating systems. Once-complicated procedures that in the old days required
considerable technical knowledge and
skills can now be done quickly and
simply by putting in a disk or by using
increasingly sophisticated “plug and
play” technology. Couple this with the
fact that much of the latest hardware
is non-repairable and suddenly the
computer serviceman often doesn’t
have a lot to do.
I’m sure repair people in other areas
are finding the same thing, with spare
parts for devices in their particular
field becoming increasingly difficult to
source or simply too expensive to buy.
As a result, gadgets or appliances that
would previously have been repaired
or refurbished and given a new lease
of life are instead being consigned to
the scrap heap.
Increasingly, I am getting clients
bringing in printers, scanners, laptops
and even tablets and phones that are
less than two years old but because
of the cost (or lack) of spare parts,
these devices end up getting junked
long before they should be. A recent
example was a large, multi-function
laser printer that came in and was
just outside its 1-year factory warranty
(as usual). The printer part of it had
stopped working and when I talked to
my brother, who runs a printer repair
workshop, he told me that a good number of this particular model fail due to
a flexible plastic strap that connects
a moving cradle in the printer to the
main circuit board.
This strap has dozens of printed
copper tracks and is a vital part of the
machine yet unbelievably this strap is
not available as a spare part. The only
hope is to burgle a known working
strap from an identical dead unit but,
of course, the likelihood is that most
siliconchip.com.au
such units will have been junked for
the same reason.
Anyway, after confirming that the
strap had indeed split, I considered the
possibility of either making another
strap from ribbon cable or repairing the
existing one. Unfortunately, due to the
way it connects to the cradle, neither
scheme was feasible and I then had to
break the news to my client that the
device was non-repairable. They were
quite rightly aghast that something
so new should have failed in the first
place and that because parts were not
available, the whole thing was now
useless and would either end up being stripped for parts (if donated to
someone like us) or finish up in landfill
somewhere.
Repairing smartphones
In line with change in consumer
preferences, I am now getting more and
more clients coming in with phones
and tablets. Most are not software related because the operating systems seem
to be reasonably bulletproof, probably
because you can’t really mess with
them in the way we messed around
with our old desktop machines (unless
you’re a real hacker). Instead, the vast
majority of problems with phones and
tablets are impact damage, mostly in
the form of cracked or broken screens.
The first thing I check in such cases
is whether it is the screen or the digitiser that has cracked. The digitiser
overlays the screen and provides the
touch functionality smartphones use
for navigation. If the screen image
looks OK, it is likely just the digitiser
that has cracked. If the screen is only
half visible, or has coloured lines or
artefacts all over it, chances are the
screen has cracked as well.
The reason I differentiate is that
digitisers can usually be sourced
relatively cheaply, with replacements
for most models rarely exceeding $50.
Screens, on the other hand, are two to
three times that amount (or more), so
it pays to determine which part needs
replacing.
The bad news is that some screens
and digitisers come only as a single
assembly and that means that the cost
is higher again. I recently worked on a
Sony Xperia phone that came in with
a cracked screen. The phone had been
dropped and the shock had shattered
the digitiser.
I soon established that the screen
itself was sound, so fortunately it only
needed the digitiser. The problem was
most of the vendors I could find only
sold both parts as an assembly and
at a high price. After much hunting
around, I found an auction-site seller
offering just the digitiser and while
it was a little more expensive than I
would have liked, it really was the best
way forward.
I called the client and told him what
the options were. It turned out that
he had been Googling and was well
aware that only whole-screen assemblies were generally available. He was
prepared to give a digitiser-only repair
a try, so I duly placed an order and
put the phone aside to await delivery.
The digitiser arrived a week later
and I began by confirming that it was
September 2013 59
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
Freebie O
On
nix DVD player repair
It’s surprising how often faulty
electronic gear can be brought back to
life using parts donated by a similar
“dead” machine, or even one that’s
quite different. B. P. of Dundathu,
Qld successfully resurrected a DVD
player using just this technique . . .
My friend Dave used to run a
secondhand computer shop but has
since closed his business and moved
on to other employment. With the
price of new computers coming
down so much over the years, people were no longer bothering to buy
second-hand computers.
During the course of his business,
I used to regularly call in to see him
and on one of these visits, he gave
me an old Onix DVD player. He said
he’d been having a lot of problems
with it not opening the tray. Sometimes it would work while at other
times it would fail to open unless the
button was pressed multiple times
or the unit was turned off and on
several times.
Eventually, he became sick of its
antics and bought a new DVD player.
the right one for the phone, something
I always do before starting any work so
that I don’t end up making a mess of
things. The biggest challenge with any
such repair is getting the old digitiser
off the phone. If the whole screen assembly needs to come out, it usually
does so without too much hassle but
the digitisers in almost every phone
I’ve worked on are stuck down with
industrial-strength double-sided tape.
This was especially true of the Xperia,
which is marketed as a water-resistant
phone.
The only way to get the touchoverlay off is to pry open one of the
existing cracks and carefully work
around towards the edge of the screen,
pulling bits of glass out as you go
and levering gently against the frame
to release the tape. It is a messy and
unpleasant task and as it turned out,
fruitless in this case.
In most phones, the screen is a relatively thick and hardy piece of kit and
as long as you don’t twist it about too
much or stick something into it while
60 Silicon Chip
And so that’s how I came to inherit
the old one. Perhaps I could get it
going again and put it to use.
Once I got the unit home, I tested
it and found it would usually work
after two or three button presses. As
a result, I set it up with our system
and it was then used periodically. It
gave various amounts of trouble in
opening the tray, depending on what
“mood” it was in, but we tolerated
it because it really wasn’t a huge
hassle.
Then, one day after not being
used for some time, it decided that it
would no longer open the tray at all,
making it totally unusable. And so,
with nothing left to lose, I decided
to take a look inside to see if I could
find out what the problem was.
With the lid off and the unit
powered up, I connected my multi
meter to the tray motor terminals
and checked voltage each time the
tray button was pressed. The correct voltage appeared each time the
button was pressed but nothing else
happened.
removing the digitiser, everything will
be fine. In the Xperia, I discovered that
the screen is wafer-thin and after only
a few minutes working on removing
the digitiser I suddenly noticed a nasty
crack had appeared across the width
of the screen.
Now I understood why all those
vendors sold the two parts as one
assembly. Even without my “fists of
ham”, removing the digitiser without
damaging the screen would be an
almost impossible task given how
incredibly thin it is (though kudos
to anyone out there who has actually
managed it).
Knowing that I couldn’t do any more
damage, I soon had the old broken bits
and pieces out of the phone. The tape
that held it down was then cleaned
from the chassis using the tip of a
sharp hobby knife and some methylated spirits on a rag.
After ordering a new screen and
digitiser assembly (you can buy the
digitiser by itself but not the screen), I
set everything aside and again waited
That much established, I disconnected the unit from the power and
checked the tray motor for continuity. It was open circuit but tapping
the motor with the butt end of a
screwdriver gave intermittent readings so this confirmed that it need
replacing.
I’d previously wrecked a few dead
computer CD drives, so I knew that
they used a similar tray motor. As
a result, I looked through my junk
box but couldn’t find a motor that
was the same as the one in the Onix
DVD player.
Fortunately, I also had several
dead but still intact CD drives on
hand that I hadn’t binned, so I started
dismantling them. I drew a blank on
the first two but dismantling the third
turned up a motor that looked to be
identical to the DVD player’s.
I quickly fitted it to the DVD player,
a straightforward job involving just
two mounting screws and a couple
of wires that have to be soldered
to the replacement motor. I then
re-assembled the DVD player and
tested it.
It then worked reliably so I put the
resurrected DVD player back into
use. It’s still working perfectly two
years down the track.
for parts. I also called the client and
told him what had happened and
thankfully he was philosophical about
it, especially when I said I’d absorb the
cost of the extra digitiser (who knows,
perhaps I’ll get another identical Xperia in at some point which needs a
replacement and I’ll have better luck
next time).
When the new parts arrived, the
whole assembly installed quite easily.
The only thing I had to do was cut out
a new piece of double-sided tape using
the frame as a template. It was a little
scary sticking it all down because you
only get one shot at it.
Fortunately, it worked perfectly and
the client was happy. In the meantime,
if you know anyone with an Xperia
with a cracked digitiser, I have one
going cheap!
Servicing tablets
Tablet computers don’t get dropped
as often as phones and many have
fancy armoured rubber or leather cases
to protect them, so serious damage is
siliconchip.com.au
not as common. But it does happen and
increasing numbers of damaged tablets
are now being brought in for repair.
The problem with repairing most
tablets is getting them apart. Anyone
who has pulled an “i-anything” to bits
will tell you how challenging they can
be, while the cheaper Android-based
tablets are prone to case clip breakage
if not handled carefully. Many tablets
(and phones) use weird and wonderful
screws to hold things together, so it’s
essential to have one of those multi-tip
drivers you can buy from electronics
stores. You also need screen suckers
and a variety of plastic “prying” tools,
although these are widely available
and inexpensive these days.
Having the necessary tools doesn’t
guarantee an easy ride though. Some
tablets have hidden screws beneath
stickers, blanks, rubber feet and
mouldings or in other places you’d
never think to look, and this can make
disassembly a nightmare.
A 10-inch brand-name tablet was
dropped off recently with a cracked
screen. In this case, the digitiser
was intact and so the challenge was
to remove it without breaking it. As
mentioned, if they are broken, it’s
relatively simple to remove the bits
but not breaking one that’s intact is a
real test. They do flex alarmingly but
are usually very strong and tolerate
quite a bit of bending.
That’s just as well because the only
way to remove this one was by using
a blunt plastic pry tool and gently
moving along the edges of the digitiser,
breaking the tape seal in the process.
The screen was also stuck down with
lots of tape and I’d hate to try to remove a working screen because I don’t
think it would be possible without
cracking it.
Like phone screens, tablet screens
are readily available, though buying
them directly from the name-brand’s
parts department can hurt the wallet
so a little shopping around helps. I
also stick the screens back down using
less tape than the factory, just in case
I need to remove them again.
Anyway, having obtained the new
screen, I installed it in the machine
and stuck the digitiser back down. It
flattened out nicely and looked just
like a factory job. Best of all, it worked
perfectly and the tablet will no doubt
give several more years of service.
Phone and tablet repairs give a very
different type of job satisfaction and, in
siliconchip.com.au
my case, now provide a much needed
source of income. It’s a field that many
servicemen likely won’t embrace but
for me to stay in the game, it’s been
necessary to develop the extra skills
required to service these products.
Noisy Sony ICF-M350S radio
Transistor radios are usually very
reliable but they can develop faults
that can be difficult to track down. This
next story comes from M. H. of Woolloongabba, Qld who tackled a rather
puzzling fault in a Sony ICF-M350S.
Here’s what happened . . .
A Sony ICF-M350S portable radio
has been a faithful companion in our
power electronics lab for many years.
Tuned to local AM stations, the radio
not only serves to provide soothing
background music but also alerts
designers to any wideband RF noise
that’s occasionally spewed from their
wayward creations. Hash in the radio
is a good clue that something is amiss
and really strong emissions had even
been known to precede catastrophic
failures.
Unfortunately, over time, our faithful Sony radio itself became increasingly noisy, until it was eventually put
aside to be “looked at later”. When it
was finally brought down from the
shelf, the AM band was a total mess of
random noise that swamped all but the
strongest local stations. The shortwave
band was completely unusable but the
FM band performed perfectly, which
meant that the problem was obviously
somewhere in the AM section.
The unit was opened up and initially checked for signs of mechanical
damage and any other obvious signs
of stress. This gave no clues so all the
electrolytic capacitors in this 10-yearold radio were tested in-situ. Each
returned a respectable ESR value and
was given the all-clear.
Next, we thought that perhaps the
faulty part could be detected by freezing but a “can-of-cold” had virtually
no effect on the circuit. Heating with
a hot air-gun produced no results either and so, with all the easy options
exhausted, it was time to get serious.
The local oscillator injection to the
mixer was soon located using an oscilloscope and found to be strong and
clean, so suspicion now fell on the RF
signal path. Then, while I was poking around with the probe, checking
supply voltages, the noise suddenly
stopped, only to restart again just
as quickly. No amount of probing or
pressure would then make the noise go
away again but at least a likely area on
the board had been identified.
The spray freezer was now put to
work again but this time concentrated
on just the suspect area. A healthy
spray produced lots of inevitable condensation but yielded no clues.
Our bench is usually occupied by
high-voltage circuitry so any such
condensation is always removed using a hot-air gun to avoid nasty zaps.
September 2013 61
Serr v ice
Se
ceman’s
man’s Log – continued
The Sony ran on 4.5V and so, just this
once, dry finger-tips were pressed into
service to mop up the moisture. And
while I was wiping the track side of the
board, the noise briefly disappeared,
to be replaced by clear music.
A little experimentation revealed
that the radio would only work with
a finger lightly straddling the pins of
the LA5003 low drop-out voltage regulator. This regulator supplies power
to the chip that handles much of the
RF signal path. A quick check of the
LA5003’s data sheet revealed that a
capacitor, referred to as an “RF noise
suppressor”, is connected between
pins 1 & 4 of the device.
Apparently, this regulator is prone
to generating RF noise without a suppression capacitor. A 10nF leaded
capacitor was duly tacked into place
and the radio then behaved flawlessly.
The regulator’s existing surfacemount capacitor was subsequently
measured and found to be effectively
open circuit, though no obvious cause
was visible. Resoldering its two ends
to the tracks did nothing to fix it
either, so the leaded capacitor was
permanently soldered in its place and
the radio returned to its rightful place
above the bench, watching out for stray
broadband RF noise emissions.
It’s rather ironic that the Sony’s
62 Silicon Chip
only fault after all its years of service
as a noise watchdog for other equipment turned out to be an open-circuit
suppression capacitor. As a result, it
wound up generating its own wideband RF noise. So the ancient art of
“hands-on” fault-finding still has a
place; but not at high voltages!
A real laptop saga
A. F. of Chinderah, NSW got more
than he bargained for when he tried to
help a friend out with a faulty laptop.
Here’s his story . . .
Now that I have retired and downsized my home, I no longer have the
space to work on large-screen TVs,
such as the 119cm unit that someone
recently wanted me to look at. What’s
more, I reluctantly parted with much
of my test equipment, including my
scope, some years ago.
These days, I can usually only offer
advice to friends and acquaintances
who have technical problems. Computer problems are something I can
usually deal with though, so when
Marvene from our local church asked
me to look at her laptop, I decided to
give it a go. Hopefully, it would be
something simple although I wasn’t
too sure as to the nature of the problem.
All I could find out was that “the thing
you click on, is missing”.
When I called in to her house, I
watched the laptop boot-up without
problems. The difficulty that Marvene
was experiencing was that the desktop
icon that brought up the “Dial-up Dialog Box” had disappeared (yes, she
was still using dial-up). All I had to do
to fix the problem was find the dial-up
program in the Start menu, right click
it and drag it onto the desktop to create a new shortcut. It was all too easy.
That wasn’t to be the end of it
though. Next Wednesday, I saw Marvene again at the op-shop, where we
both work as volunteers. A new problem had now emerged with the laptop
which was now displaying a “funny
message”, which went away when she
pushed the Enter key.
As I soon discovered, the “Windows
Boot Manager” dialog box was now
appearing during boot-up, to allow
the operating system to be selected.
As there was only Windows 7 to be
selected, simply hitting the Return
key allowed the computer to continue
booting.
I was unsure as to why the laptop
was now running the Boot Manager but
it reminded me of hitting the F2 key to
enter the CMOS set-up, or F8 to enter
the “Safe Mode” option. So maybe
a key on the keyboard had become
stuck? I powered down the laptop,
stood it up vertically and pressed all
the keys several times. The idea was
that any dust or debris that might be
jamming any keys down would fall
out. However, when I restarted the laptop, the Boot Manager still appeared.
Fortunately, the unit was still under
warranty, so I phoned the technical assistance number to ask for advice. The
technician suggested that I press the F8
key during the restart, which brought
up the Diagnostics and Repair Menu.
We ran the Repair option without
problems and then ran the Diagnostics
with no faults reported.
And that was it. The Boot Manager
no longer appeared, so problem solved
– or so we thought.
Unfortunately, the “fix” wasn’t permanent. The next Sunday when we
met, Marvene told me that the Boot
Manager had reappeared after three
days and now the desktop icons were
“jumping around” as well. So back I
went for a third visit.
Bypassing the Boot Manager was
easy and the system appeared stable
except that several desktop icons
were disappearing and reappearing
siliconchip.com.au
at random intervals. It was really odd.
The technician requested that I run
the diagnostics again several times
but no fault was found. I then heard a
faint ticking sound coming from inside
the laptop, which reminded me of the
noise made as hard disk drive heads
operate.
I held the phone close to the laptop
for the technician to hear and together
we decided that the hard disk drive
was faulty. So we arranged for a service
technician to call at Marvene’s house
and replace it.
I must say that it was quite enjoyable
to watch another person undertake the
repair, since it meant that I no longer
felt any pressure or responsibility to
ensure a successful outcome. Anyway,
with the new HDD fitted and Windows
7 reinstalled, it all worked perfectly
and everyone was happy.
Until next Wednesday that is, when
Marvene said that all the problems
had returned. And indeed they had.
The technician now decided that the
motherboard must be faulty and for
good measure, the HDD would again
be replaced just to make sure.
This time two technicians arrived
at Marvene’s and I watched while
they spent a long time stripping and
re-building the machine. All was well,
we thought but again the problems
quickly resurfaced.
The following Sunday, Marvene
said that she was fed up and had had
enough. All the faults were still there
and she wanted a new laptop, as it was
still within the warranty period. When
I phoned the technician, they said they
wanted to run the diagnostics again.
Marvene’s reply was an emphatic
“No”. She wanted the laptop out of her
house and didn’t want any more visits
from strangers attempting to fix it.
In my now unplanned role as peace
negotiator, I passed on the message that
the laptop could be sent back to their
workshop but at Marvene’s expense,
under the “Return to Base” clause in
the warranty. Marvene agreed to this,
on the condition that it would not be
returned until it had worked for at least
three days in their workshop without
problems.
In the end, the laptop was sent to
their workshop in Brisbane, where it
was promptly repaired and returned.
We waited with bated breath – it now
behaved normally and several months
down the track, is still behaving itself.
So what started out with a simple
“I’ll take a look at it for you” turned
into a frustrating 7-week marathon.
What was causing all those mysterious faults? My guess is that it was the
keyboard but we never did find out.
DGTEC set-top box repair
Regular contributor B. P. of Dundathu, Qld was recently given a faulty
HD set-top box. It didn’t take long for
him to get it going again . . .
A DGTEC HD set-top box recently
came into my possession, its previous
owner complaining that it “wouldn’t
turn on half the time” and was “playing up”.
Problems like this are usually caus
ed by a faulty power supply so when I
had a few moments to spare, I removed
the lid and undid the screws securing
the power board. There were a few
suspect joints that I re-soldered but I
didn’t consider them to be bad enough
to have caused any problems.
I then took a look at the electrolytic
capacitors. At first glance, they all
appeared to be all OK but then, on
closer inspection, I noticed that the
main 220µF 450V electro had a slight
bulge at the top. That’s a sure sign of
trouble, so I removed it and tested it
on my ESR meter. The reading was
found to be quite high, so I was on
the right track.
This capacitor was replaced with
one from my parts box, after which I
re-assembled the unit and tested it. It
now turned on and off faultlessly, so
I set it up and re-tuned the channels.
We already had an SD set-top box/
PVR installed, so this “new” set-top
box gave us the extra HD channels we
had been missing out on.
This was an easy repair but it would
not have been economical to have the
unit serviced by a repairer – the cost of
the service would have exceeded the
cost of a new unit. So it’s handy to be
able to repair some of the easier-to-find
faults like this one.
By the way, faulty electrolytic capacitors are a common problem in
devices like older set-top boxes, PVRs,
routers and modems. They’re usually
easy to spot too, a bulge in the can,
usually at the top of the capacitor, beSC
ing a dead give-away.
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September 2013 63
Don’t ruin an expensive
SLA, Li-Ion, Li-Po or
LiFePO4 battery by overdischarging it. This small
circuit will protect it by
cutting off power before
it reaches the danger
zone. It has virtually
no effect on available
power or battery life.
It’s also ideal for
preventing devices like
Uninterruptible Power
Supplies and emergency
lights from destroying
their batteries in an
extended blackout.
LifeSaver
for Lithium or
SLA batteries
by Nicholas Vinen
R
ings, we have quite a few emergency
of death. Computer UPS (Uninterruptechargeable Lithium-based
lights/exit signs in our office. While we
ible Power Supplies) often have the
batteries are great – they have
only have the occasional black-out, we
same problem which can make having
high capacity, long service life,
still have to replace several back-up
a black-out quite an expensive event.
high discharge current, light weight
batteries a year which really should
The Battery LifeSaver works with
and fast charging.
have lasted a lot longer except that
6-24V batteries and can handle curBut they’re easy to destroy if you run
they were discharged to the point
rents of up to 20A continuous
them down below a particular voltage
and 30A peak, making it suitalevel and in a lot of applicable for use with cordless power
tions, all you have to do is leave
ns
tools, emergency lights, small
the device on a bit too long and
Features & specificatio
to medium UPS (up to about
your expensive battery is lost.
Li-ion, Li-Po and
,
cid
d-a
Lea
d
ale
Se
h
• Works wit
300VA) and a wide variety of
Radio-controlled cars/
)
LiFePO4 batteries (6-24V
other devices.
planes/helicopters generally
rent, <5A
• Very low quiescent cur
With a quiescent current
have a low voltage cut-out feaable from 5.25 to 25.5V
less than 5A, it has negligible
ture built in to the motor speed
• Cut-out voltage adjust
s,
capability – 20A continuou
effect on battery life and as
controller but if you use these
• High current-handling
)
rge
cha
dis
long as the cut-off voltage is
batteries in other applications,
or
e
arg
(ch
30A peak
type and
y
ter
set high enough, it won’t damyou definitely need this Battery
bat
on
ing
end
dep
• 0.3-2V hysteresis,
age the battery even if left for
LifeSaver.
voltage
quite a long time after it has
As mentioned above, it’s also
m)
5m
in tight spaces (34 x 18.
• Very small PCB, to fit
activated – 4.3A continuous
suitable for use with most leadaged
ged once cut-out has eng
discharge equates to less than
acid batteries. As with most of• Battery can be rechar
38mAh per year.
fices, factories and public build(maximum 1.5A)
64 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
It’s very small at just 46 x 18.5 x 5mm
assembled and light too (about 5g) so
it can be slipped into a tiny space in a
battery compartment. It won’t cost a lot
to build either, which is good since if
you have use for one, chances are you
will have uses for several.
We certainly do!
Operation and charging
As shown in Fig.1, the unit connects
between the battery and load so that it
can stop the load drawing any further
power once the battery voltage reaches
its cut-off value.
It is based on a Mosfet, shown here
as a switch. When the Mosfet is off,
the load can not draw any further
power from the battery. The Mosfet’s
intrinsic diode is reverse-biased in this
condition so no current flows through
it either.
The battery can be recharged either
by connecting the charger directly
across the battery terminals (if they
are accessible) or as shown in Fig.1,
by connecting the charger across the
load terminals, whether or not the
load is still connected. Charge current flows in the opposite direction
to discharge current and this path is
shown in green.
In many cases, it will be necessary
or simply convenient to charge via the
load side of the device. In this case, the
positive output of the charger is connected directly to the positive terminal
of the battery while the negative output
is connected via the internal electronic
switch and parallel diode.
If the battery voltage is high enough
then the switch is on and so charge
current can flow through it and charging proceeds as if the charger was
connected across the battery.
With the switch off, current can still
Believe it or not, this photo is actually larger than life size, just to show the
detail on the tiny (46 x 18.5mm) module. It’s cheap to build but could save you
a fortune in ruined batteries! Once we attached the input and output leads, we
encapsulated it in some transparent heatshrink tube.
flow from the charger to the battery but
it must pass through the diode. There
will be an associated voltage drop
and power loss due to the diode junction, heating up the diode (inside the
Mosfet). However note that because
the battery voltage will appear to be
near-zero at the load terminals, some
chargers may refuse to deliver current
in this situation.
If the cut-out has activated, you
should limit the charge current to 1.5A
or else the diode could overheat. We
tested charging under this condition
using a Turnigy Accucell 6 charger and
it worked fine as long as we turned the
charge current down until the battery
voltage had come back up a couple of
volts. Once the switch is back on (as
confirmed by a healthy voltage reading across the load terminals), you can
proceed to charge at the full rate.
CHARGING CURRENT
DISCHARGE CURRENT
L+
B+
+
BATTERY
LIFESAVER
+
BATTERY
6–24V
CONTROL
LOAD
–
B–
L–
–
+
CHARGER
–
Fig.1: block diagram for the Battery Lifesaver. The unit is connected
between the battery and load and disconnects the two (at the negative
end) if the battery voltage drops below a threshold. The battery can still be
charged in this case, at a limited current, until the voltage rises enough for
the cut-out to deactivate at which point full charge current can resume.
siliconchip.com.au
If your charger is too “smart” and
refuses to supply current with the
cut-out activated, it’s simply a matter
of connecting some sort of current
source (or current-limited voltage
source) across the load terminals – a
plugpack and low-value wire-wound
resistor will generally do the trick. It
usually doesn’t take long to raise the
voltage of a flat battery by a volt or two.
Circuit description
The full circuit is shown in Fig.2. We
have published similar circuits in the
past that used special-purpose ICs but
they can be hard to get so this one is
based on general-purpose parts: a low
quiescent current low-dropout linear
regulator (REG1), an ultra-low-power
comparator (IC1) and a very low onresistance Mosfet (Q1).
REG1 has a dual purpose. It limits
comparator IC1’s supply to 5V which
is desirable since IC1 has an absolute
maximum rating of 7V. The regulated
5V is also used as a reference for comparison with the battery voltage.
IC1 has rail-to-rail inputs and this
means that we can tie its inverting
input (pin 2) directly to 5V. In fact, its
common mode input range extends
0.2V beyond both supply rails. Pin 3,
the non-inverting input, is connected
to a resistive voltage divider that is
connected across the battery.
The upper leg of this divider consists of a fixed upper resistor (RU) and
a trimpot (VR1) while the bottom leg
is a single resistor (RL). RU and RL are
September 2013 65
Fig.2: circuit diagram for the Battery LifeSaver. It’s based on a low-dropout 5V regulator (REG1), very low power
comparator (IC1) and Mosfet Q1, which acts as the switch. Values for resistors RU, RH and RL are chosen to suit a
particular battery cut-out voltage threshold and VR1 provides fine adjustment of this voltage. ZD1 is selected to keep
the supply voltage to REG1 within its ratings.
chosen so that VR1 can be adjusted this, as soon as the load is switched
The 10nF capacitor across RL filters
to give 5V on pin 3 of IC1 when the off, the battery voltage would re- out noise which may be picked up due
battery voltage is at its lower operat- bound and this will cause the load to to the high impedance of the divider
ing limit.
be switched back on and the circuit network and smooths battery voltage
With the battery voltage above this would oscillate.
ripple. It also slows the action of this
limit, the voltage at pin 3 of IC1 is
Say the low voltage cut-out thresh- hysteresis considerably but IC1 has
above that of pin 2 and so the com- old is set to 19.8V (for a 24V Li-Po a small amount of built-in hysteresis
parator output (pin 6) is high, switch- battery). Once the output of IC1 goes (about 3.3mV worth) which helps
ing on Mosfet Q1 via a 10 resistor. high, the switch-on voltage rises to compensate for this.
This connects the load to the battery. about 21.4V. The battery is unlikely to
REG1 has 1F ceramic input bypass
When on, Q1 not only has a very low rebound this much – at least, not right and output filter capacitors for stabilon-resistance (about 1.3m) but is away – so the Mosfet will remain off ity, the minimum suggested value for
fully on with its gate just 4.5V above until the battery is re-charged. This this part. Dual Schottky diode D1/D2
its source.
hysteresis should be sufficient for most protects the circuit against reverse
If the battery voltage drops too much, batteries but if necessary, it can be battery polarity although it won’t stop
the voltage at pin 3 of IC1 goes below increased by lowering the value of RH. current flowing through Q1’s body dithat at pin 2, the
ode and the load, if concomparator output
nected. The other half of
goes low and Mosfet
D1/D2 clamps input pin
Q1 turns off. The
3 of IC1 to the 5V supply
only remaining load
if the battery voltage is
on the battery is the
particularly high.
circuit itself, drawZener diode ZD1 reing about 3.2-4.5A.
duces the battery voltResistor RH, conage for REG1 and its
nected between the
voltage is selected to
output and nonsuit the type of battery
inverting input of
used. REG1’s absolute
IC1, gives a small
maximum input is 16V.
amount of posiFor batteries well below
tive feedback which
16V, ZD1 is replaced
provides 1-2V of
with a link (see Table 1).
hysteresis for the
During operation,
circuit. Its value is
REG1 consumes about
selected so that this
2A while IC1 draws
hysteresis is about
just 600nA. The rest of
8% of the battery When we say tiny, we mean it: here is the LifeSaver sitting on top of a
the quiescent current
voltage. Without 12V, 7Ah SLA battery and it’s not even as high as the spade lugs!
flows through the resis66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
tive divider, hence the resistors used
have as high a value as is practical to
minimise this current. This is why we
have used a combination of resistors
and a trimpot to set the cut-off voltage;
the highest value of trimpot commonly
available is 1M.
Optional buzzer/LED
The PCB has a pair of pads so that a
piezo buzzer or LED can be connected
to indicate when the battery voltage
drops below the cut-off threshold.
However fitting this may be not a good
idea if you are concerned about the
extra current drain on a battery which
has been drained to the cut-off voltage.
A buzzer/LED could run the battery
flat in a matter of hours so you will
need to immediately recharge it once
it sounds/lights up.
If you do want to fit a buzzer or LED,
it will be driven at 5V by the output
of comparator IC1, which can sink a
maximum of 30mA. LEDs will require
a series current-limiting resistor.
Component selection
Since the battery voltage divider is
formed from a combination of fixed
resistors and trimpot VR1, we must
change the values of these resistors
so that the adjustment range of VR1
includes the desired cut-off voltage
for your battery.
High value input dividers for
comparators pose a problem in that
the hysteresis resistor typically must
be a much higher value so we are
limited by the highest value readily
available. Luckily, it’s quite easy to
get resistors up to about 22M in
SMD packages which is higher than
the typical maximum of 10M for
through-hole parts.
To determine which parts you need,
first locate your battery or its closest
equivalent in Table 1 and read off the
value for ZD1. Next, decide which
cut-off voltage you want to use; in
very high current drain applications
(10A+), especially when using a relatively small battery, you may want to
set it a bit lower than specified.
Once you have determined the cutoff voltage to use, find an entry in Table
2 which has a range covering it and
then read off the values for resistors
RL, RU and RH. These are chosen to
give a hysteresis of about 8% of the
battery voltage, thus the hysteresis is
roughly proportional to the number
of cells for a given battery chemistry.
As mentioned earlier, you can adjust
the value for RH if necessary – lower
values give more hysteresis and higher
values less. This will not affect the
cut-off voltage although hysteresis
does vary slightly as VR1 is adjusted.
Construction
The Battery LifeSaver is built on a
PCB coded 11108131, measuring 34 x
18.5mm. Referring to the overlay diagram (Fig.3), start by soldering Mosfet
Q1. It has a large pad on the underside
Parts List – Battery LifeSaver
1 double-sided PCB, coded 11108131, 34 x 18.5mm
1 50mm length 25mm-diameter heatshrink tubing
1 length heavy-duty black wire (to suit installation)
1 length heavy-duty red wire (to suit installation)
2 female 6.4mm spade quick connectors (optional; for use with gel cell batteries)
2 male 6.4mm spade quick connectors (optional; for use with gel cell batteries)
Semiconductors
1 MCP6541-E/SN ultra-low-power comparator (IC1) (element14 1439473)
1 MCP1703-5002-E/CB micropower LDO 5V regulator (REG1) (element14 1439519)
1 PSMN1R2-30YL 30V 100A Mosfet (Q1) [SOT-669/LFPAK] (element14 1895403)
1 BAT54 Schottky diode (D1) [SOT-23] (element14 9526480)
1 0.4W or 1W zener diode (see Table 1 for voltage) (ZD1)
Capacitors (all SMD 3216/1206)
2 1F 50V (element14 1857302)
1 10nF 50V (element14 8820155 or similar)
Resistors (SMD 3216/1206)
1 10
plus three resistors, 330k-22M, as per Table 2
1 1M 25-turn vertical trimpot (VR1)
siliconchip.com.au
Jaycar Electronics will
be releasing a kit for the
Battery LifeSaver shortly:
Cat No KC-5523 <at> $29.95
ST Micro’s LFPAK
series SMD Mosfets
Mosfet Q1 is an ST Micro part
with an incredibly low on-resistance
– barely more than 1 milliohm. It is
rated to carry 100A but it will dissipate
around 1W at 30A (I2 x R) so without
heatsinking (other than the PCB), it
won’t handle much more than that.
Its on-resistance is so low that
losses in the Mosfet itself are a minor
component of the dissipation, most of
it being in the PCB and wiring. This is
only really possible with SMDs since
a TO-220 through-hole package has
1m of resistance in the package/
leads alone.
By comparison, the LFPAK package (also known as SOT-669) has a
resistance of just 0.2m. The semiconductor die is sandwiched between
the metal drain pad on the bottom of
the device (which also acts as a heat
spreader) and a metal plate on top,
which also forms the three source
leads (pins 1-3). This gives a very
large contact area between the device
leads and the Mosfet itself, hence the
low resistance possible.
The LFPAK has roughly the same
footprint as an 8-pin Small Outline
Integrated Circuit (SOIC-8), a very
common SMD IC package. There is
a lot of equipment already designed
to handle SOIC parts – pick and
place machines, storage schemes,
etc – and these can generally work
with LFPAK Mosfets with little or no
modification.
At a pinch, SOIC-8 Mosfets can be
substituted for LFPAK devices and
can be soldered to the PCB without
needing to modify it. However, losses
will be higher in this case. Mosfets in
LFPAK use the same pin configuration as typical N-channel Mosfets in
SOIC packages.
For more infor mation, see
www.nxp.com/documents/leaflet/75016838.pdf
September 2013 67
Table 1: battery types, voltages and values for ZD1
Battery type
Nominal
Fully charged
6V
12V
24V
6.6V
7.2V
7.4V
9.9V
10.8V
11.1V
13.2V
14.4V
14.8V
16.5V
18.0V
18.5V
19.8V
21.6V
22.2V
7.2V/7.35V*
14.4V/14.7V*
28.8V/29.4V*
7.2V
8.2-8.4V
8.4V
10.8V
12.3-12.6V
12.6V
14.4V
16.4-16.8V
16.8V
18.0V
20.5-21.0V
21.0V
21.6V
24.6-25.2V
25.2V
Note: 2S/3S/4S/5S/6S refers to the number of cells in series
68 Silicon Chip
paste underneath all melts and fills the
gaps, forming a solid junction.
Note that this will require a fairly
hot iron as there is a large area of copper connected to this pad. Note also
that you will need to put the PCB on
a heat-resistance surface as the underside will get very hot indeed.
To avoid overheating the Mosfet
itself, stop after about ten seconds. You
may need to let it partially cool down
and then apply heat for another ten
seconds or so, to ensure all the solder
paste has melted.
When this happens, the volume of
flux smoke produced should drop right
TO LOAD
B–
10nF
RL
+
(BUZZER)
–
– +
L
Q1
–
BATTERY
B+
+
BATTERY
10 1F RU ZD1 VR1
IC1
which must be in intimate contact with
the large pad on the PCB to ensure both
low resistance (so it can handle high
currents) and a good thermal bond for
proper heat dissipation.
To achieve this, first spread a moderately thin layer of solder paste evenly
over the pad and a good dollop of it
on the smaller pin 4 pad, at lower left.
Position Q1 over its pads and press it
down, then apply heat to the small pin
4 pad so as to melt the solder paste
until Q1 is held in place. You may find
you have to add some solder wire to
get a solid joint.
Check that Q1 can’t move, then
examine its alignment. In particular,
ensure that the other three pins are
correctly positioned over their pads
and the tab is not totally covering the
pad to which it is to be soldered; there
should be a thin sliver of pad visible
although this may be obscured by
solder paste.
To adjust the alignment, re-heat the
solder on pin 4.
Once you are happy with its position, melt the solder paste along the
edge of the large tab by running the tip
of the iron along up and down along
the exposed section. It may help to add
a bit more solder.
You will need to keep the tab heated
for several more seconds so that the
(Safe)
5.75V
5.5V
11.5V
11.0V
23.0V
22.0V
6.2V
6.0V
6.6V
6.0V
7.2V
6.6V
9.3V
9.0V
9.9V
9.0V
10.8V
9.9V
12.4V
12.0V
13.2V
12.0V
14.4V
13.2V
15.5V
15.0V
16.5V
15.0V
18.0V
16.5V
18.6V
18.0V
19.8V
18.0V
21.6V
19.8V
* gel cell or AGM type lead-acid battery
MCP6541
Lead-acid
Lead-acid
Lead-acid
LiFe 2S
Li-ion 2S
Li-po 2S
LiFe 3S
Li-ion 3S
Li-po 3S
LiFe 4S
Li-ion 4S
Li-po 4S
LiFe 5S
Li-ion 5S
Li-po 5S
LiFe 6S
Li-ion 6S
Li-po 6S
Cut-out
(Best life)
1F
RH
REG1 D1/2
11108131
Fig.3: follow this PCB overlay diagram
to build the unit. Most parts are SMDs
and all mount on the top side of the
board. VR1 can be laid over to keep
the whole thing relatively thin, so
it can be squeezed next to a battery.
Heavy-duty wires to the battery and
load solder directly to the large pads
at top. The pads at lower-left are
optionally used to connect a piezo
buzzer for a low-voltage alarm.
(Minimum)
ZD1
5.25V
10.5V
21.0V
5.6V
5.4V
6.0V
8.4V
8.1V
9.0V
11.2V
10.8V
12.0V
14.0V
13.5V
15.0V
16.8V
16.2V
18.0V
link
3.3V
15V
link
link
link
link
3.3V
3.3V
3.3V
3.3V
5.1V
5.1V
8.2V
8.2V
8.2V
8.2V
10V
off. You can then solder the remaining
pins one at a time and clean up any
bridges between them using solder
wick. If necessary, clean up using
isopropyl alcohol.
IC1 is a snack by comparison; it is
the same size and has the same pin
spacing but there is no big pad underneath so you simply pin it down
by one lead, check the alignment and
then solder the remaining pins once
it is correctly orientated.
For the rest of the SMD components,
apply some solder to one of the pads,
heat it, slide the part in place using
angled tweezers, remove the heat and
check the alignment. If it’s OK, make
the remaining solder joint(s) and then
refresh the first one with a dab of extra
solder.
Don’t get REG1 and D1 mixed up
as they look very similar; the resistors will be labelled with their value
(although you may need a magnifying glass to read it) but the capacitors
won’t be.
If you do get confused, you should
be able to tell which is the 10nF as
it will be thinner than the other two.
With the SMD components in place,
fit ZD1 with the orientation shown and
then VR1, with its adjustment screw
towards the bottom of the board. You
can bend its leads over before soldersiliconchip.com.au
ing, as we have, to keep the overall
assembly thin so that it will fit into
tight spaces.
Note that if you are going to use the
unit with a sealed lead-acid battery
(“gel cell”), these are often fitted with
spade lugs.
So you could solder wires to the
PCB and crimp female spade lugs
onto those connected to the B+/B- terminals and male spade lugs to those
connected to the L+/L- terminals.
That would then allow you to easily
connect the device in-line between
the battery and device without any
additional soldering.
Testing and adjustment
The easiest way to set up the Battery
LifeSaver is using a variable voltage
power supply (eg, a bench supply) but
if you don’t have one, you can instead
connect a fully charged battery (or
power supply with a similar voltage)
across a 1-10k potentiometer.
The pot wiper connects to the B+
terminal on the PCB while the negative terminal of the power supply goes
to B-.
We used small hook probes to make
the connection to these terminals, to
avoid having to solder them initially
(see photo) but if you do solder wires
on, it’s probably a good idea to keep
them long and use thick, heavy-duty
wire so that you can also use them for
the final wiring.
Adjust the bench supply or pot to
give the board close to the nominal
battery voltage (measured across B+
and B-), then measure the current flow
by connecting a multimeter, set to mA
or A, in series with one of the board’s
supply leads.
You should get a reading of around
5A. If it’s more than 10A or less
than 2uA then something is wrong and
you will need to carefully check the
assembly (note that not all multimeters can read such low currents with
precision).
Set the DMM to volts mode and
measure between the + terminal of
CON5 (upper) and the B- battery terminal. Assuming your DMM is accurately
calibrated, you should get a reading in
the range of 4.95-5.05V.
Now adjust VR1 fully anti-clockwise
(until it clicks) and measure the resistance between the L- and B- terminals.
The reading should be close to 0,
meaning Q1 is on. If not, check the
supply voltage and try turning it up
slightly but don’t exceed the fullcharge voltage of your battery.
Assuming Q1 is on, reduce the supply voltage to the PCB until it is at
your desired battery cut-off voltage, as
measuring between B+ and B-.
Confirm that Q1 is still switched
on, then slowly turn VR1 clockwise
until Q1 switches off and the resistance reading increases dramatically. It
should be above 10M and may give
a reading of “oL” (ie, effectively open
circuit) on your DMM.
To check this, we simply clipped the
test leads connected to L- and B- onto
Table 2: resistor values for different cut-out voltage ranges
Cut-out range
5.2-5.6V
5.6-5.9V
5.8-6.4V
6.4-7.4V
7.4-8.7V
8.4-9.7V
9.6-11.0V
11.0-12.3V
12.2-13.6V
13.6-15.1V
15.5-17.1V
16.2-17.9V
17.7-19.3V
19.3-21.1V
20.6-22.6V
22.2-24.2V
23.7-25.8V
Hysteresis
RL (1%)
RU (1%)
RH
~0.3V
10M
330k
10M
~0.4V
10M
1.0M
15M
~0.5V
6.8M
1.0M
15M
~0.5V
3.9M
1.0M
15M
~0.6V
3.3M
1.5M
15M
~0.6V
3.3M
2.2M
22M
~0.8V
3.3M
3.0M
22M
~1.0V
3.3M
3.9M
22M
~1.1V
3.3M
4.7M
22M
~1.2V
3.0M
5.1M
22M
~1.4V
2.7M
5.6M
22M
~1.6V
3.0M
6.8M
22M
~1.6V
2.7M
6.8M
22M
~1.6V
2.4M
6.8M
22M
~1.6V
2.2M
6.8M
22M
~1.8V
2.2M
7.5M
22M
~2.0V
2.2M
8.2M
22M
* Approximate quiescent current at cut-off voltage
siliconchip.com.au
Iq*
3.2A
3.2A
3.7A
4.4A
3.5A
3.8A
4.4A
4.3A
4.3A
4.6A
4.7A
4.6A
4.5A
4.6A
4.9A
4.9A
4.9A
Quality Effects Pedal
Enclosures
www.rixenpedals.com
our DMM probe tips and the used clip
leads to connect the power supply to
B+ and B-. This allowed us to vary the
voltage while watching the Mosfet’s
resistance.
You can confirm that the board is
working properly by turning the supply voltage up by the hysteresis voltage (a couple of volts should do); Q1
should then turn back on again.
Installation
Once you have soldered the leads
to the PCB, it’s a good idea to sleeve
the whole thing with 25mm diameter
heatshrink tubing so that once it’s
inside the battery compartment, or
secured to the outside of a battery, it
can’t short against battery terminals or
any other exposed metal.
Wire it up according to Fig.3. There
are two different ways to connect
the load’s positive terminal. Ideally,
it should go straight to the battery’s
positive terminal but since that will already be wired to the Battery LifeSaver
board, in may be easier to connect it
to the L+ terminal on the PCB instead.
This means the full load current has
to pass through the PCB twice which
will slightly increase losses but should
not cause any problems within the
ratings we have provided.
SC
September 2013 69
Simple 12V/24V
Regulator
for 70V
Solar Panels
Design by Branko Justic*
Want to run 12V lights and accessories independently of any 230VAC
mains supply? With a 72W solar panel, this simple regulator and a 12V
lead-acid battery, you can run a long string of LED lights and have light in
a remote location or in the city – when others are struggling with candles!
O
transformer T1. The gates of the Mosver the last few years there has available at this voltage.
By the way, there is no reason why fets are alternately driven by IC1 and
been a growing interest in running 12V lights and accessories this solar panel and regulator could so each half of the primary winding is
using a solar panel, a 12V battery and not be used to charge the batteries in fed with the full voltage of the solar
not much else. Normally this involves a car, caravan or boat, or even provide panel which can be as high as 90V in
using a 12V solar panel and battery 12V power in a remote cabin or when full midday sunlight. IC1 runs at about
and often an MPPT (Maximum Power camped in a remote location. It will 100kHz, as set by the 1.5nF capacitor
and 6.8k resistor connected to pins
Point Tracking) regulator to ensure charge a 12V battery at a useful 5A.
The 72V Cadmium Telluride thin 5, 6 and 7 of IC1.
that the maximum output of the solar
film solar panel measures 1200 x
The AC output voltage from the
panel is available.
The reason for this is that the maxi- 600mm and is quite heavy at about transformer is rectified by two SR1060
mum output from a 12V solar panel is 15kg since it is essentially a large Schottky barrier dual diodes, with
each diode pair paralleled to reduce
actually delivered at about 17V and piece of glass.
By contrast, the step-down regula- their forward voltage.
this does not match up well when
tor is on a small PCB measuring 145
The effective turns ratio of the transdirectly charging a battery.
former can set by links to provide a
In this article we look at quite a dif- x 58mm.
nominal 12V or 24V DC output to a
ferent approach whereby a 72W panel
battery.
with a maximum output of 90V is fed The circuit
The circuit is shown in Fig.1 and
Either way, you need to set the outto a step-down regulator to charge a
is based on an SG3525A switchmode put voltage using multi-turn trimpot
12V or 24V battery.
This achieves much the same result regulator (IC1) driving two IRFB4020 VR1. For a 12V battery, the float voltage
as an MPPT regulator working from a Mosfets. Each Mosfet drives one half setting is 13.8V and for 24V it is 27.6V.
12V solar panel but the 72W panel is of the primary winding of step-down VR1 and the 27k resistor connected
to the DC output form
quite cheap and has
a voltage divider which
the distinct advantage
feeds a portion of the
of also being able to
output back to pin 1
produce a 24V DC
of IC1.
output, if required.
This is compared to
However, we think
This panel has an open circuit voltage of 90V DC:
5.1V connected from
most people would
pin 16 to pin 2, part of
probably want to use
There is a SHOCK HAZARD at the panel terminals
an internal comparator.
a 12V output since
and on parts of the PCB.
When the feedback voltmore LED lights are
WARNING
ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD
70 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
It’s all housed on a single
PCB but be warned, some of the
tracks and exposed metal parts of some
components can be at 90V DC at times, which can give
you quite a (un!) healthy shock. Ideally, the PCB would be
housed in a suitable case, away from prying fingers. Note that this photo is
actually larger than life-size, for clarity. The regulator is intended for high voltage
solar panels – it won’t work with standard low voltage types. It is designed to suit
Oatley Electronics’ 1200 x 600mm CdTe Solar Panel, which puts out around 72W in bright
sunlight at about 70-90V. In fact, Oatley Electronics have a special offer for this kit plus the
solar panel for $119 (cat K330p) – see www.oatleyelectronics.com
* Oatley Electronics
age to pin 1 exceeds 5.1V, IC1 reduces
the duty cycle of the drive signals to
the gates of the Mosfets so that the
output voltage is maintained within
tight limits.
Note that the circuit shows the 27k
resistor connected to the output via
slide switch S1 when it is in the RUN
setting which is the normal mode. It
should not be run in SET mode.
SET mode has been included to enable the output voltage of the circuit
to be set when the solar panel is not
generating much voltage, ie, when it is
indoors or maybe it is dark or raining.
In this case, the above-mentioned
27k voltage divider resistor is not
connected to the DC output of the circuit but to the 5.1V reference (ie, pin
16 of IC1). The voltage at test point TP
is then set by trimpot VR1 to 1.885V,
to obtain 13.8V (to suit a 12V battery)
when the circuit is in RUN mode.
Similarly, to set the output to suit
a 24V battery, VR1 is adjusted to obtain
0.94V. To repeat, the circuit must not
be run in SET mode when it is connected to the solar panel and a battery
as the output will be unregulated.
Now while the full DC voltage of the
solar panel is fed directly to the drains
of the two Mosfets, that voltage is far
too high to be fed directly to IC1 since
siliconchip.com.au
it has an absolute maximum voltage of
only 35V. Its supply needs to be drastically reduced which is the reason
for inclusion of the ancient-looking
2N3055 power transistor, Q1.
Why use this antediluvian device?
It is not included for its power rating
but it does have a high voltage rating
for this mode of connection – 95V – so
it can cope with the solar panel’s full
output. It also offers good heatsinking
– without an external heatsink.
In fact, Q1 functions as a simple
series regulator with a 10V zener diode
connected to its base, bypassed by a
100F capacitor. By emitter-follower
action, it feeds 9.3V to IC1 – well
within its DC ratings. Having said that,
the 1.2k 5W resistor connected to the
collector of Q1 reduces its dissipation
so that no heatsink is required.
Finally, notice that there is a 47F
100V electrolytic capacitor connected
to the input supply from the solar
panel but it is isolated by a series 4.7
1W resistor, to reduce the output impedance of the panel supply.
It was found that if no 4.7 resistor
was incorporated into the circuit, it
had the potential to blow the fuse on
a multimeter if it was used to check
the short-circuit current of the panel.
Furthermore, in isolated cases it also
PARTS LIST – Solar
Panel Regulator
1 PCB, code K326-3, 145 x 58mm
2 ferrite core halves
1 prewound transformer bobbin
2 transformer clips
1 SPST slide switch, PCB mounting
2 2-way screw terminal blocks,
PCB mounting
1 DIL 16-pin IC socket
4 M3 10mm screws, nuts and washers
2 TO220 heatsinks
Semiconductors
1 2N3055 power transistor
2 IRFB4020 Mosfets
1 SG3525 SMPS IC
2 SR1060 dual Schottky diodes
1 10V 400mW Zener diode
Capacitors
3 100F 16V electrolytic
2 47F 100V electrolytic
4 68nF monolithic ceramic
1 1.5nF metallised polyester
2 560pF 200V disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
2 27k 1 6.8k 2 1001W
3 10
1 4.71W 2 0
1 1.2k 5W
1 20k 10-turn potentiometer
September 2013 71
+ INPUT
4.7
1W
1.2k 5W
27k
0
Q1
2N3055
C
10
E
100F
16V
B
15
16
+5.1V
+
Q2
IRFB4020 D
13
2
72V
SOLAR
PANEL
100F
16V
5
7
K
ZD1
10V
11
10
12
4
9
S
4
S
G
1
560pF
D
Q3
IRFB4020
10 8
T1
14
L1
5T
23T
12
5T11
L2
23T
5T10
L3
1
560pF
G
IC1
SG3525
100
1W
10
14
6
100F
16V
47F
100V
5T
7
L4
8
100
1W
68nF
A
6.8k
0
1.5nF
68nF
68nF
–INPUT
72v SOLAR panel BATTERY CHARGER/REGULATOR
K
C
Fig.1 is the complete circuit diagram. It suits a high voltage (~72V) solar panel,
also available from Oatley Electronics. It will not work with the more common low voltage panels.
them – it’s too easy to make a mistake!
Note that there are two 0 resistors
to be placed – these are on the top
left of the PCB. The lone 5W resistor
(1.2k) must be mounted standing
vertical off the PCB.
Next to go in are the low-profile
capacitors, followed by the electrolytic capacitors. The marking for two
electrolytics might confuse you: on the
PCB screen overlay, they’re labelled
as 22-100F. In the kit, they’re almost
Construction
All components mount on the top
side of the PCB so construction is
relatively simple.
Start by checking the PCB for any
defects and if all is OK, commence construction by soldering in the resistors.
Use the resistor colour code table
at right and/or check the values with
a digital multimeter before you place
INPUT
560pF
S1
100
SR1060
4.7
47F
–
68nF
68nF
100
SR1060
560pF
IC1 SG3525
68nF
TP
14
27k
Q3
6.8k
10V
1.5nF
ZD1
T1
D2
100F
10
68nF
1
K326-3
+
Q1
2N3055
47F
+
+
100F
IRFB4020
10
10
IRFB4020
0
0
Q2
+
27k
–
1.2k 5W
+
100F
+
Fig.2 shows the
component placement
on the PCB. All
components as such
mount on the top
side of the board,
as shown here, but
you will need to
place two links on
the underside of the
board (as shown in
Fig.3 opposite) to
set up your charger
to suit a 12V or 24V
system.
certainly 47F 100V.
Now it’s time to place the various
semiconductors. Be careful not to confuse the Mosfets and Schottky diodes
– they do look the same but are clearly
identifiable – nor get them around the
wrong way (see the circuit diagram and
component overlay).
The Schottky diodes have heatsinks
fitted but these can be left until last as
they will get in the way.
The IC must be inserted in the right
SET
led to failure of one of the Mosfets.
E
RUN
2013
A
+
OUTPUT
SC
2N3055 B
ZD1
7
8
c oatleyelectronics.com
VR1 20k
FLOAT ADJ.
D1
(TOP VIEW)
72 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Resistor Colour Codes
VOUT
S1
RUN
SET
D1
SR1060
24V
A1
12V
K
A2
12V
A1
OUTPUT
TO BATTERY
27k
K
24V
A2
D2
SR1060
TP
VR1
20k
47F
100V
68nF
0V
(GND)
SR1060
A1
K
IRFB4020
K
G
A2
D
D
S
way around too – identify the notch at
one end which goes towards the top.
The collector of Q1 connects to the
copper track underneath by means of
a nut and bolt. Ensure there is good
connection between the pad and the
screw head – it might pay you to place
a layer of solder on the pad first.
After soldering in the switch (S1),
the two terminal blocks and the trimpot
(VR1), all that is left is the transformer.
This is supplied as a pre-wound
No. Value
o 2
o 1
o 2
o 3
o 1
o 2
4-Band Code (1%)
27k
red violet orange brown
6.8k
blue grey red brown
100
brown black brown brown
10
brown black black brown
4.7
yellow violet gold brown
0
single black stripe
coil on a bobbin, two ferrite cores and
two clips to hold it all together. It’s
vital that the primary side, which has
only three connections, goes to the
left-hand side looking at the board as
shown below. Both sides have seven
pins to solder to the board; the primary
has three of these connected while the
secondary has five.
Pin 1 on the transformer is clearly
identified – ensure it goes into the top
left PCB hole. Finally, fit the heatsinks
to the two Schottky diodes using 3mm
nuts and bolts. A smear of heatsink
compound on the metal of the diodes
wouldn’t go astray.
Links
That almost completes assembly. All
you have to do now is solder two links
on the bottom (copper side) of the PCB
which determine whether you have a
12V or 24V system.
It’s quite easy to “bridge” between
the appropriate pads with solder – just
be sure you get the right pads!
If you have any problem with solder
not taking, use an offcut from a resistor or capacitor to make the small
wire links.
Setup
After checking your component
placement, you need to set up the
charger. This can be done with a solar
5-Band Code (1%)
red violet black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
yellow violet black silver brown
single black stripe
panel connected or not.
If you have a solar panel connected
and it’s producing power (ie, it’s
sunny!), disconnect the battery being
charged and switch S1 to the “run” position. Measuring VOUT with a DMM,
adjust VR1 to give 13.8V for a nominal
12V system and 27.6V for 24V. Leave
S1 in the “run” position.
If you don’t have a solar panel connected or if it isn’t producing power
(eg, it’s dark!) you could simulate one
by connecting, say, a 50V DC supply
in series with a 50 resistor.
Alternatively, without any input
(solar panel or simulated), leave the
battery in position and switch S1 to the
“set” position. Connect your DMM to
the test point (TP) and adjust VR1 so
that it reads 1.885V (for 12V) or 0.94V
(for 24V). Don’t forget to switch back
to “run” when finished.
Cabling
All cabling should be run in a gauge
not only heavy enough for the current
but also with insulation more than
capable of handling the ~90V which
this panel can produce during bright
sunlight.
It’s more likely that your panel
will produce less than this – say 7080V – unless it is tracking the sun, is
kept scrupulously clean and is never
SC
shaded by trees or even posts.
Where d’ya geddit?
This kit is available exclusively from
Oatley Electronics who hold the copyright
on the design and PCB.
A Solar Panel Regulator Kit and a FS272
CdTe High Voltage Solar Panel (as
discussed in this article) are available
for the special price of $119 plus freight,
which varies according to your location
(the panel is quite heavy!).
Email branko<at>oatleyelectronics.com.au
for a freight quotation.
You can order online – www.
oatleyelectronics.com – or by phone from
Oatley Electronics during business hours
(9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) on (02) 9586 3564
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 73
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Hear who’s at the door
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H 0719
DIP Prototyping Boards
SAVE 22%
2 For
$
2 For
$
12
S 4904 2xAAA
Handy Kitchen Timer
Countdown timer with hourglass
LCD. Magnetic back for your
fridge. Alarm and stopwatch
functions. Includes battery.
Pre drilled copper strip board for
designing & prototyping. Standard
2.54mm pitch hole spacing (0.9mm
hole). Prices are per pack of 5.
SAVE 17%
SAVE 26%
SAVE 19%
$
$
$
11
/5pk
H 0714 10x7.5cm
14
/5pk
H 0712 10x15cm
X 0252
Note: not rechargeable.
28/5pk
H 0711 10x25cm
SAVE 35%
Q 0576
Motion Sensing Night Light
Plugs into any mains outlet & lights up
instantly when you walk past! Great for hallways and stairs. Can also be switched to
permanent ‘on’.
22
19
Waterproof
Thermometer Module
-30°C to +70°C with 0.1°C
resolution. 69L x 34W x 24Hmm.
Great for
automotive
wiring.
SAVE 22%
$
17
$
Wireless Weather Monitor
Measures indoor temperature; outdoor
temperature and humidity. Great for
greenhouses. -40°C to +65°C. Sensor range
100m. Requires 2 x AA & 2 x AAA batteries.
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
» 74 S
Springvaleilicon
VIC: 891
Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St
Chip
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
19
$
8-30V DC Volt
Panel Meter
Q 0585
Red 3 digit display. 0.1V
resolution. 50Wx26Hx23.5Dmm.
Great for automation!
ea
SAVE 17%
X 7020
S 4906 2xAA
Big brand name performance for a
much lower price! These top quality
lithium batteries offer excellent performance in high power devices.
13.50
$
Design Your Own
Circuits With Ease
14
Long Life Lithium Batteries
H 0774
NEW!
14.95
$
SAVE 24%
Fibreglass
positive resist
blank single
sided PCB.
Developer to
suit H 0798
$2.95/pk.
150x300mm.
SAVE 28%
$
SAVE 20%
$
Build experimental circuit
designs with ease. Great for
hobbyists and electronics
designers. Aluminium base.
ammonium persulphate.
SAVE 14%
SAVE 25%
Prototyping Breadboards
NEW!
Speaker Whopper Cable
Top quality oxygen free cable for use
in home theatre & car audio. Full
50m rolls only.
P 1012A 1660 Hole
Printed and drilled specifically to
suit DIP packaged IC’s. 0.9mm
holes <at> 2.54mm spacing.
110 x 140mm.
X 0250
.95
7 magnetic slide
in jaw sets
With 7 sets of magnetic jaws to suit all manner of crimp lugs, connectors
& terminals. Kit includes jaws to suit kwik crimps, uninsulated lugs, telephone spades, shoelace ferrules, RG58, RG59 RG62, RG6 coax crimps
and D-Sub connectors
24
$
Security Doorphone System
Added peace of mind for your family.
Connects via two core cable (25m included)
for easy installation. It can even be used to
open a door strike for a secure entry system. Includes power supplies.
P 1015A
2309 Hole
SAVE 27%
Get first class results for your
one-off PCBs with this easy to use
etchant tank. Includes pump, tank
and clips for suspending PCB’s.
Add a tank heater for $33.35
(T 3202) *Heater cannot be used with
S 9394
209
29
$
Make your own PCBs
& save $$$
NEW!
Dashboard Portable HD Camcorder
SAVE 27%
Handy 160 Piece
Heatshrink Pack
W 0884 Colour
W 0886 Black
A must have for the workbench!
160pc’s of 100mm heatshrink in 1.6,
2.4, 3.2, 4.8, 6.4 & 9.5mm sizes.
S 0090
29ea
$
Mini Timer Module
May be used to extend the activation time for a momentary
contact between 1 and 180s.
Triggered by NC or NO contacts.
12-24V AC/DC. Max 3A.
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
siliconchip.com.au
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
Power for at home or on the road!
Monitor energy use & cut standby power.
In-built energy meter to calculates running costs! It also
saves energy by cutting standby power usage to appliances.
Plus it also operates as a standard power board. Surge
protected up to 30,000A!
10 Buck Power Deals!
Ideal for
the study!
SAVE 33%
SAVE 34%
39
$
129
$
SAVE 33%
33
$
Complete Power
Protection & Backup
P 8268
10 Way Power Protection Board
Cheap insurance for your valuable appliances - with surge
protection up to 52,000A. Dual USB sockets for charging
your devices, plus telephone & TV aerial protection.
54
.95
CCTV Systems
Home Theatre
Security & Alarms
Buy a couple
for the house!
Plug-In Mains
Energy Meter
How green is your family?
Monitor energy usage of any
appliance in the home.
Simply plugs into a standard
GPO and displays usage in
kW/h or dollars. 2400W max.
SAVE $10
Computers
M 8892
9
95
$
D 0877A
Ideal for high
power laptops
Now with USB
output!
Shows the real running
costs of appliances
SAVE 30%
P 8133
10
$
24 Hour
Mains Timer
M 8990
NEW!
SAVE $20
79
$
With pass through 240V
socket so you don’t lose an
outlet! Great for keeping your
phone, tablet or MP3 player
charged. 1A charge output.
$ .95
Protection For...
NEW!
$
Dual USB Mains
Charging Adaptor
REDUCED!
This Powershield Compuguard UPS
unit will prevent damage caused by
power fluctuations or blackouts.
• 650VA capacity - backup power for
15 min. • Surge/spike protection
•Clean power for valuable equipment
• Phone line spike elimination.
With 2 USB outputs!
Charge iPods, MP3 players, phones & game
consoles from any 100-240V outlet! Includes
Australian, US, UK & European adaptors.
N 0710
This folding solar panel charger is an ideal way to keep your phone
or tablet charged when camping, hiking etc. 10W panel with 1.5A
5V DC USB output. Charges a typical smartphone in 2-4 hours
(depending on conditions). Multiple units can be daisychained for
faster charging.
P 8119
Control each mains socket from a single remote. Reduce
power consumption around the office by turning off idle
appliances. Remote includes battery. 50m range.
Handy USB Mains Travel Adaptor
NEW!
Folds up to about
the size of an
Altronics catalogue!
Stay Charged Up On Your Travels!
Turn appliances on or off by remote.
10
$
M 8890A
P 8134
.95
Save power and
switch appliances off
at night automatically.
Switches on and off
multiple times per 24
hours as required!
89
$
M 8998
Works at home
or on the road!
SAVE 12%
39
$
Car/240V Laptop Power Supply
144W Laptop Power Supply
A laptop power supply designed for both 240V
mains and portable 12V use. Includes car
power adaptor, mains lead and 12 tips to suit
popular models of laptop. 14.5 to 24V output
<at> 90W max.
Top quality replacement power supply. USB
output powers peripherals. Includes 9 tips to suit
most laptops. Selectable voltages (12-24VDC),
max 8.5A. Includes mains lead.
Size: 180 x 63 x 40mm.
M 8070A
Provides 240V power for charging laptops,
small tools, lamps, chargers and more!
150W rated (450W surge). Ideal for camping. 12V input. 60mmØ. Modified sine wave.
Handy Car USB
Adaptor
Stay charged up on
the road! Max 2A.
9
69.95
$
Reliable, long
life 12V power
for your project!
N 2080
NEW!
84
$
.95
Ideal size for
4WD & caravans
solar systems.
SAVE $30
SAVE $40
$
$
119
N 2071A 20A
139
N 2072 30A
12V DC Photovoltaic Solar
Charge Controllers
Ensures optimal battery charging cycles for both
wet cells and sealed lead acid batteries.
• Microprocessor controlled • Deep cycling for
wet cells • Status screens showing panel &
battery output • Over charge & over temp
protection • Adjustable low voltage disconnect.
Follow <at>AltronicsAU
siliconchip.com.au
Buy two
for $16
M 8623A
Surge Protected
Double Adaptors
NEW!
USB Datalogger
For N 2080
A USB datalogging
interface for N 2080
power meter. Includes
PC software.
N 2081
10
X 8010
$ .95
Great for measuring and monitoring PV solar
system output. Connects inline between any
DC power source and connected load. Logs
Amp hours, Watt hours, current, min & max
voltages. 5-60V 20A.
2 For
$
240V Power From A Cup Holder!
HANDY!
Keep an eye on your
solar power
SAVE 45%
www.facebook.com/Altronics
Express Order
Hotlines:
Premium 12V SLA Batteries
Great for security, solar power systems,
UPS, comms gear etc.
Capacity
Part
Normally
2 For...
1.3Ah
S 5075B
$19.95
$30
3.3Ah
S 5080
$29.80
$40
4.5Ah
S 5084
$27.95
$48
7.2Ah
S 5090B
$29.95
$52
12Ah
S 5098
$59
$90
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
Keeps your
appliances protected
from electrical
surges. Vertical
design doesn’t
obstruct other outlets.
Power up
your cup
holder
Fitted with dual
USB & accessory
sockets. 5V 1A
USB output.
SAVE 45%
2 For
$
10
P 8102
SAVE 44%
10
$
M 8622
September 2013 75
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
Top Value AV & PA Equipment
Low Voltage Lighting
SAVE $30
99
$
NEW!
Page switch has
‘lock on’ position
Access over 14,000 internet radio stations from your home hi-fi!
This stylish wireless internet radio player will perfectly compliment your existing AV
system. It provides you with access to DAB+ digital radio stations, plus virtually any
internet radio station or podcast via wireless internet (no computer required!). Plus it
can stream music stored on your PC via UPnP. Size: 430x90x285mm.
SAVE $30
369
$
A 2696
Android 4.1
SAVE $20
139
$
D 2810
Turn your ‘dumb telly’ into a smart telly!
Smart TV’s are all the rage - allowing you to stream movies,
music and photos to your big screen, plus access an array
of smartphone style games & apps. Simply plugs into a
spare HDMI input. Streams 1080p HD video over your home
wireless connection. 1GB of RAM, 4GB internal memory,
plus micro SD slot.
A 1102
NEW!
Listen to tunes
anywhere you go!
49.95
$
Hooks up to virtually any amplifier,
stereo or portable speakers to stream
audio wirelessly from your smartphone
or tablet. In-built rechargeable battery
offers up to 10hrs use.
A 3134A
Dynalink 4 Way HDMI Switcher
®
SAVE $20
89
$
With IR remote. Designed to switch between
four full HD sources. Ethernet, digital & stereo
audio may be split from the HDMI signal if
required. Up to 1080p. Includes plugpack.
A 3081B
Handy problem solver!
Allows you to view one HDMI source to
two monitors. New compact design.
Great for cafes, pubs & clubs. • 1080p
• HDCP compliant • Includes plugpack.
5m Roll
$12.00
$48.75
White 3528
X 3202
$12.00
$48.75
Warm White 5050
X 3208 $22.50
$100
White 5050
X 3210
$100
$22.50
$
Virtually
indestructible!
Redback Drop Proof Mic
®
Super tough grill resists damage, even
when dropped onto hard floors. Ideal
choice for clubs & schools. Includes 5m
3 pin XLR lead.
C 9018
SAVE $30
69
$
NEW!
Outdoor IP65 LED Strip Lighting
Available by the metre or in 5m reels!
Two chip sizes - 3528 (medium brightness) or
5050 (high brightness). Backed by 3M adhesive
tape and encased in flexible plastic. Can be cut
every 3 LED’s (or 50mm). 12V DC.
Part
1m
5m Roll
Warm White 3528
Colour
X 3204
$15.00
$67.50
White 3528
X 3206
$15.00
$67.50
Warm White 5050
X 3211
$28.00
$125
White 5050
X 3212
$28.00
$125
NEW!
SAVE $20
X 2336
SAVE 35%
29
$
Includes 6 marine grade stainless white LEDs,
junction box, 6m of cabling and weatherproof
transformer. 28mmØ hole (33Ø x 19Dmm).
C 9004
SAVE 33%
Digital TV Panel Antenna
Provides 25dB gain for clear digital TV
& radio reception. Includes power supply & PAL to F lead. Size 190x118mm.
18
$
Stylish Hi-Fi Headphones
• Large ear pads for increased noise
isolation.• Samarium cobalt magnets
• 3.5mm plug & 6.5mm adaptor.
With rust free stainless fittings & aluminium grille!
All weather speaker and grill assembly, for long life even in
marine or tropical areas. 20W RMS. 4Ω.
SAVE 24%
C 0844
9V battery powered!
Portable Mini Mixer
25
$
A 2620
Powered by 9V battery or plugpack
(M 9237A $17.95) this tiny mixer is
perfect for karaoke or small
productions. It mixes four 6.35mm
mics. Robust steel case.
129
$
Stainless Steel Deck Lighting Kit
Great for
caravans!
Opus One® Waterproof 4” Speakers
Maintenance free outdoor sound. These weatherproof 6x9”
speakers are designed for long life in marine or tropical
areas. Also great for caravans. 30W RMS. 4Ω.
1m
X 3200
L 2026
$
Weatherproof Speakers for the 4WD or Boat!
Colour
Noise cancelling circuit cuts up to 20dB
of exterior noise! Great for the plane or
bus. Folding design.
SAVE $20
79
Part
Warm White 3528
Noise Cancelling Headphones
Splits the audio and video signals from a HDMI input - ideal
for connecting HDMI sources to non-HDMI amplifiers.
Optical, coaxial and analogue 3.5mm stereo outputs.
/pr
35
Available by the metre or in 5m reels!
Two chip sizes - 3528 (medium brightness) or
5050 (high brightness). Backed by 3M adhesive
tape. Can be cut every 3 LED’s (or 50mm).
Great for home & car feature lighting. 12V DC.
C 0383
72
A 3830
SAVE $50
SAVE 22%
Two Way HDMI Splitter
Extract Digital Audio From HDMI
$
Excellent for paging and announcements
in your business! Fitted with a 3 pin
XLR, it is the perfect partner for any
Redback PA amplifier. Custom mic insert
enhances speech reproduction & clarity.
$
99
Maintenance free
outdoor sound!
Redback® Desktop Paging Mic
Includes
batteries.
$
C 0840
C 0377
SAVE 19%
SAVE $30
79/pr
Indoor LED Strip Lighting
A 3227
SAVE 30%
70/pr
$
Long Distance Wallplate Balun
Send composite video and stereo audio
signals over cheap Cat5e/6 cable - Up
to 100m! Clipsal 2000 wallplate.
Super Bright
Portable Work Light
A 10W LED floodlamp
coupled with a
rechargeable battery
offering up to 6 hours use
away from mains power.
Includes work stand,
car charger and mains
plugpack. Great for work sites
& service vans. Also available
in 20W (X 2321 $139).
X 2320
NEW!
99
$
Buy 1, Get 1 FREE
MR16 12V 1W Globes
Ideal for low voltage feature
or cabinet lighting. 35°
beam. 50 lumens.
X 2150
2 FOR 1 DEAL
11.95
$
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
76 Silicon Chip
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy siliconchip.com.au
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
Resellers:
Exciting DIY kit releases!
K 5165
Silicon Chip 2 x 135W Class AB Amplifier
Audio enthusiasts rejoice: It’s finally here!
(SC Mar-May ‘12) A stunning low distortion, high power stereo amplifier
designed for superb performance in any 2 channel audio system. It delivers 135W
RMS per channel into 8 ohms (or 200W RMS into 4 ohms). It utilises two of the
K 5154 amplifier module kits, plus power supply board, toroid, speaker protector
kit, heatsinks, input and pre-amp boards & a stylish 2RU all metal chassis.
Features: • 135W into 8 Ohm
or 200W into 4 Ohm
• Distortion levels around
0.008% • Includes all parts,
boards, chassis, heatsinks and
toroid • A must have for
serious audio kit builders!
• 10Hz - 20kHz.
749
NEW MODEL
Modules also available separately:
K 5154 135W Amp Module
$85ea
K 5164 Input Module
$35.95
$235
K 5166 Metal Chassis
K 5167 Speaker Protection Module
$24.95
K 5168 Power Supply Module
$32.95
K 5169 Pre-Amplifier Module
$34.95
MC5540 Power Transformer
$99.95
TOP VALUE!
3 Solar Powered
Robots In One!
31.95
$
Build this kit into not one
but 3 solar-powered robots!
Includes detailed
instructions to assemble,
dismantle and re-assemble
a robot, scorpion or tank
from the included parts.
Performs different
movements when placed in
the sun. A great intro to solar
electronics. No soldering
required. Ages 8 and up.
NEW KIT!
15.95
All metal case
provides a top quality
finish to your kit!
$
$
K 1116
Creepy Spider
Powered By Salt Water!
Uses a salt water fuel cell to
power its legs. Just add some
salt water to the cell plate & the
spider will creep around. No
batteries required! Ages 8+.
K 1118
NEW KIT!
Salt Water Powered Buggy Kit
A V8 powered buggy that runs on salt
water! No batteries required. This kit
features a detailed engine with moving
cylinders and crank shaft. Ages 8 and up.
NEW KIT!
K 5804
54
$
24.95
$
K 1122
TOP VALUE!
89.95
.95
$
K 4500
SAVE $20
129
$
Dog Blaster Kit
Keeps your woofer quiet!
K 4065
(SC August ‘12) Are barking dogs keeping you
up to all hours? The dog blaster hooks up to
high power piezo tweeters (C 6161 $9.95ea)
and outputs an ultra high frequency sound to
deter dogs from barking constantly. Note: Please
use responsibly. Excessive use may actually make
barking worse if the dog gets used to the noise.
Car Diagnostic Analysis Kit
(SC Feb ‘10). This car interpreter kit connects
to your laptop and provides real time readouts
from a multitude of engine sensors (in vehicles
fitted with OBD II port). Ideal for mechanics &
car enthusiasts. May require a RS232 to USB
converter, D 2340B $29.95.
K 9555
LED Musicolour Kit
(SC October ‘12) Updated Musicolour
for LED technology! A continuously
changing kaleidoscope of colour changing
in time to the music. Controls up to 16
strings of LEDs tuned to individual
frequency bands. Great for Christmas
lighting or DJ’s and parties.
TOP VALUE!
94.95
$
SAVE 18%
69
$
K 5181
.95
‘Classic-D’ Amplifier Module Kit
(SC November ‘12) A rugged and reliable
Class-D audio amplifier producing up to 250W
into 4Ω. This high efficiency, high power
design is ideal for building into any audio
amplifier design. Class-D amps are
commonplace amongst consumer equipment.
Low distortion <0.01%. Based on the IRS2092
audio amplifier chip.
K 5182 Optional speaker protector
$19.95
49
$
TOP VALUE!
K 6029
Colour MaxiMite Kit
(SC September ‘12) The new colour
maxi-mite is here! Upgraded with colour VGA
output, stereo audio synthesiser, real-time
clock, Arduino compatible connector and 20
more I/O lines. A powerful programmable
computer for innumerable logging, monitoring
and switching projects. Note: SD card not included.
Original MaxiMites Still Available
K 9550 Maximite BASIC SD Computer
K 9552 Mini Maximite Module
$72
$49.95
Get the most from your solar
panels with an MPPT charger.
(SC March ‘12) Delivers optimum charge
current to your connected batteries via an
in-built 3 stage charging system (bulk,
absorption, float). Equalisation feature
allows you to ensure all cells in a bank are
equally charged. Suitable for charging
12V batteries from nominal 12V panels up
to 120W (can be modified to suit 24V
systems). Note: this is MKII version of this kit
published in March 2012 issue of Silicon Chip.
B 0092
Sale Ends September 30th 2013
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
siliconchip.com.au
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2013. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Bunbury
ML Communications
Esperance
Esperance Comms.
Geraldton
ML Communications
VICTORIA
Bairnsdale
Bairnsdale Electrics
Beaconsfield Electronic Connections
Castlemaine
Top End Technology
Clayton
Rockby Electronics
Cranbourne
Bourne Electronics
Croydon Truscott's Electronic World
Geelong
Music Workshop
Healesville Amazon DVDs Healesville
Hoppers Crossing
Leading Edge
Leongatha
Gardner Electronics
Nunawading
Semtronics
Preston
Preston Electronics
Rosebud
AV2PC
San Remo Shorelec Elec. Wholesale
Somerville
AV2PC
Wodonga Exact Comp. & Home Ent.
TASMANIA
Hobart
Active Electronics
Launceston
Active Electronics
QUEENSLAND
Bowen Hills
Prime Electronics
Caloundra
LESC
Cloncurry
Access Electronics
Coorparoo
Delsound
Fortitude Valley
Design Data
Gold Coast
Prime Electronics
Hervey Bay
Ultra Music
Innisfail
Leading Edge Electronics
Longreach
Access Electronics
Rockhampton
Access Electronics
Toowoomba
Michael's Electronics
Townsville
SOLEX
NEW SOUTH WALES
Brookvale Brookvale Electrical Dist.
Cessnock Leading Edge Electronics
Cobar
Cobar Electronics
Deniliquin
Wired Entertainment
Gloucester
Autolec Gloucester
Grafton
Downes Electronics
Griffith
Griffith Systems Plus
Gunnedah
Protronics
Lithgow
Leading Edge Electronics
Nth Richmond Candle Power Tech.
Oak Flats
Oak Flats Electronics
Orange
Fordray Electronics
Penrith
Penrith Light and Sound
Port Macquarie
Fettel Comms.
Smithfield
Chantronics
Tamworth Bourke Street Electronics
Taree
Noeledge Systems Pty Ltd
Wagga Wagga
Wagga Car Radio
Waterloo Herkes Electrical Supplies
Wetherill Park Techtron Electronics
Windang
Mad Electronics
Wollongong Lightsounds Wollongong
Wyong
Coastal Caravan And RV
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Aztronics
Brighton
Force Electronics
Enfield
Aztronics
Findon
Force Electronics
Kadina
Idyll Hours Hobbies
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin Combined Comm. Solutions
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch - Riccarton Global PC
Christchurch - Shirley
Global PC
(08) 9721 9800
(08) 9071 3344
(08) 9965 7555
(03) 5152 3201
(03) 9768 9420
(03) 5472 1700
(03) 9562 8559
(03) 5996 2755
(03) 9723 3860
(03) 5221 5844
(03) 5962 2763
(03) 9931 0845
(03) 5662 3891
(03) 9873 3555
(03) 9484 0191
(03) 5986 6711
(03) 5678 5361
(03) 5978 0007
(02) 6056 5746
(03) 6231 0111
(03) 6334 7333
(07) 3252 7466
1300 716 840
(07) 4742 2590
(07) 3397 8155
(07) 3854 1588
(07) 5531 2599
(07) 4128 2037
(07) 4061 6214
(07) 4658 0500
(07) 4922 1058
(07) 4632 9990
(07) 4771 4211
(02) 9938 4299
(02) 4990 5971
(02) 6836 2962
(03) 5881 3555
(02) 6558 1600
(02) 6642 1911
(02) 6964 5933
(02) 6742 2110
(02) 6352 3333
(02) 4571 4699
(02) 4256 6120
(02) 6362 9901
(02) 4733 3333
(02) 6581 1341
(02) 9609 7218
(02) 6766 4664
(02) 6551 3622
(02) 6925 6111
(02) 9319 3133
(02) 9604 9710
(02) 4297 7373
(02) 4226 1177
(02) 4353 1100
(08) 8212 6212
(08) 8377 0512
(08) 8349 6340
(08) 8347 1188
(08) 8821 2662
(08) 8942 0644
+64 3 3434475
+64 3 3543333
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight and
September 2013 77
insurance and therefore the range of stocked products & prices
charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
330Ω
+5V
100nF
4.7k
IRD1
IR
RECEIVER
3
λ
REG1 LM7805
REG2 LM1117T3.3
+3.3V
4.7 µF
OUT
OUT
IN
GND
470 µF
470 µF
100nF
IN
GND
470 µF
CON2 PIN2
1
I/O 20
I/O 19
2
I/O 1
I/O 2
CON5 PIN4
I/O 3
I/O 14
8.2k
I/O 4
MINI
MAXIMITE
8.2k
I/O 5
I/O 6
I/O 7
I/O 15
CODE 1
I/O 8
I/O 9
I/O 10
I/O 16
CODE 2
1k
A
A
λ
CON2 PIN1
λ
λ
A
K
λ
λ
K
1k
1k
1k
A
λ
1k
1k
1k
A
A
A
λ
K
A
λ
λ
K
λ
A
K
λ
K
K
K
K
K
K
1k
A
A
1k
ACK.
LED10
1k
1k
I/O 18
LED 9 LED 8 LED 7 LED 6 LED 5 LED 4 LED 3 LED 2 LED 1 LED 0
CODE 1/CODE 2 JUMPER TABLE
CODE 1 CODE 2
DEVICE
OUT
IN
OUT
OUT
IN
IN
OUT
IN
IRD1
TV
SAT 1
SAT 2
CD
1
2
3
K
A
GND
OUT
MiniMaximite version of the 10-channel
remote control receiver
This circuit is an implementation
of the 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver described in the June 2013
issue of SILICON CHIP. It mirrors the
original design as closely as possible, the main differences being the
controller chip and the corresponding software. Consequently, all the
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
Keep your copies of SILICON CHIP
safe with these handy binders
Order now from www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/4 or
call (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number
or mail the order form in this issue. *See website for
overseas prices.
Buy five and get them postage free!
78 Silicon Chip
LM7805
LM1117T
LEDS
REAL
VALUE
AT
$14.95
PLUS
P&P
OUT
IN
GND
IN
GND
OUT
operating and set-up procedures are
exactly as described in the original
article, with the one exception being
that there is no provision for incorporating a UHF module.
On receipt of an IR signal from
a remote control using the Philips
RC5 protocol, the first task of the
MiniMaximite is to decode the signal. The RC5 code contains 14 bits
of information. There are two start
bits followed by a toggle bit. Then
come five address bits and finally
six command bits.
Each bit has a duration of 1.778ms,
giving a total time for the 14-bit frame
of 24.892ms. The whole frame is
then repeated after 114ms. Midway
siliconchip.com.au
within each bit, a “1” is represented
by a low-to-high transition and a
“0” is represented by a high-to-low
transition.
The toggle bit (0 or 1) changes
every time a key is pressed but remains unchanged while a key is held
down. This information is used to
+
IC1 ULN2003
9–12V
DC
– PLUGPACK
9
COM
1 1B
1C 16
2 2B
2C 15
3 3B
3C 14
4 4B
4C 13
5 5B
5C 12
6 6B
6C 11
7 7B
7C 10
+
OUT 0
–
+
OUT 1
–
+
OUT 2
–
+
OUT 3
–
+
OUT 4
–
E
8
IC2 ULN2003
9
COM
1 1B
1C 16
2 2B
2C 15
3 3B
3C 14
4 4B
4C 13
5 5B
5C 12
6 6B
6C 11
7 7B
7C 10
+
–
+
–
+
–
+
–
+
–
OUT 5
OUT 6
OUT 7
OUT 8
OUT 9
E
8
control whether the action repeats
in this case.
The five address bits constitute
the device code. A remote using TV
mode sends a device code of zero
whereas in SAT1, SAT2 and CD
modes the device code sent would be
8, 10 & 20 respectively. These are the
devices coded for using the Code1
and Code2 jumpers connected to
pins 15 & 16 of the MiniMaximite.
Finally, the six command bits contain the code for the key pressed.
The circuit diagram shows the
output of the IR receiver connected
to pins 19 & 20 of the MiniMaximite.
One of these pins is defined as an
interrupt for low-to-high transitions
while the other is defined as an interrupt for high-to-low transitions.
In this way, the MiniMaximite can
distinguish between a “1” or “0”. It’s
not quite as simple as it appears because the nature of the signal means
that not every transition represents
a digit.
To assist in the decoding, the
MiniMaximite needs a source of
clock signals that can be counted.
The period of the clock signal needs
to be much less than half the period
for one bit, ie, much less than 889μs.
There are no suitable commands in
MMBasic to do this but it is possible
to use the SOUND 200000 command
to generate clock signals with a period of 5μs.
The circuit diagram shows the
SOUND output connected to pin 14,
which is defined as a counting input.
Each transition in the signal generates an interrupt which records the
instantaneous count of 5μs pulses.
From that information the time be-
tween transitions can be calculated
and it is from these times that the
signal can be decoded.
Note that the time interval between frames (114 ms) is very large
when compared to the time between
pulses (1.778ms) so, by using this
large gap, it is possible to record and
distinguish between many successive frames. This program records
90 transitions which is sufficient
to cover more than the first three
frames. It then looks for the 114 ms
gaps between frames 1 & 2, 2 & 3
and 3 & 4.
The program then decodes frames
2 & 3 and compares the address and
command content of each frame.
These should be identical but if they
are not there has been some error in
the signal path and the ACK LED will
flash 10 times. If there is agreement
the program continues on to process
the requested operation.
Setting up momentary and toggle
operation is exactly as described in
the June 2013 article. The nature of
the outputs and their initial states
is stored in the file a:data on the
MiniMaximite.
Power is provided from a 12V
DC plugpack. The 7805 regulator
provides the 5V supply for the IR
receiver and this supply is further
regulated by an LM1117T3.3 to
provide 3.3V for the MiniMaximite.
The current rating of the plugpack
will depend on what’s connected to
the outputs (eg, relays, motors, lights
etc) and the nature of the outputs
(toggle or momentary). This is also
covered in the original article.
Jack Holliday,
Nathan, Qld. ($60)
co n tr ib u ti on
MAY THE BEST MAN WIN!
As you can see, we pay $$$ for contributions to Circuit Notebook.
Each month the BEST contribution (at the sole discretion of the editor)
receives a $150 gift voucher from Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse.
That’s yours to spend at Hare&Forbes Machineryhouse as you see fit
- buy some tools you’ve always wanted, or put it towards that big
purchase you’ve never been able to afford!
100% Australian owned Established 1930
“Setting the standard in quality & value”
www.machineryhouse.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
150
$
GIFT VOUCHER
Contribute NOW and WIN!
Email your contribution now to:
editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
or post to PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW
September 2013 79
S
D
G
STP30NE06L
D
GND
IN
OUT
7805
0V
100 µF
16V
100nF
GND
OUT
A
K
A
IN4004
A
1N4148
A
K
A
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N
K
* ON HEATSINK
230V
A
MAINS
INPUT
E
B
S4
UNITS
7
SER.IN
10k
S3
TENS
ICSP
HEADER
S2
100s
80 Silicon Chip
PIEZO
S1
100nF
RUN
22k
19
2
SER.OUT
0V
20
C2
C3
8
9
C1
10
3 x 1k
C7
B7
11
4
3
C6
C5
5
C0
B5
B6
12
B4
IC1
PICAXE 20M2
13
14
15
B3
B2
LEDS
D6
1N4004
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D5
1N4004
12V
K
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D3
1N4004
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Q3
BC337
dp
10 g
f
b
d
g
c
b
f
10 g
B
S5
POWER
C
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Q2
BC337
3,8
d
3,8
(Altronics M2853L
or Jaycar MM2013)
E
B
10 g
dp
A
D4
1N4004
K
Q1
BC337
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d
f
c
b
4 c f
2 d
1 e
e
9
4 c f
2 d
1 e
e
9
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K
K
A
3,8
c
dp
D2
1N4148
K
b
g
b
4 c f
2 d
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e
9
b
g
TENS
a
7 a
6
DISP 2
DISP 3
B0
C4
6
K
A
RUN
λ LED2
220Ω
10k
10Ω
E
B
C
BC337
IN
G
K
λ
0V
2500 µF
25V
A
K
A
REG1 7805*
S6
S
D
λ
K
A
K
A
λ
λ
K
D1
1N4148
A
UNITS
a
7 a
6
DISP 1
3 x FND500
OR LTS5434R
7 a HUNDREDS
a
6
UV light box & timer with LED array
7 x 100Ω
18
+V
1
(LID INTERLOCK MICROSWITCH)
Q4
STP30NE06L
λ
K
A
K
A
λ
λ
K
A
A
390Ω
K
SET
λ LED1
A
+5V
+5V
+18V
λ
K
A
K
A
λ
K
A
λ
390Ω
390Ω
390Ω
UV LED ARRAY
λ
λ
K
A
12 x L7113UVC
+18V
GND
Circuit Notebook – Continued
This UV light box timer is based on a PICAXE20M2 microprocessor with an array of UV LEDs to expose the photo-sensitive
board. The 3 x 4 array of UV LEDs, spaced on 25mm centres and
placed 70mm below the exposure glass plate, will illuminate a
board up to 75 x 100mm. These dimensions give an exposure
time around five minutes. You may install extra UV LED arrays
for larger board sizes but cost becomes an issue. The Kingbright
L7113UVC from RS Components cost $5 per LED.
IC1 operates as a “down counter” with push buttons S2-S4
entering the exposure time in seconds on the 3-digit 7-segment
LED display (eg, enter 300 seconds for a 5-minute exposure
time). The program uses the “time” command to keep accurate
time. Press the run pushbutton (S1) to start counting down.
The display is multiplexed using transistors Q1-Q3 while
seven 100Ω current-limiting resistors drive the anode pins. Each
time you enter a new exposure time it is saved in EEPROM and
will become the default exposure time for future cycles and is
not lost if the power is switched off.
Two green LEDs are provided to define both “set” mode
siliconchip.com.au
OUT
+5V
100nF
100nF
10k
21
AREF
1
RESET
PWR
2
S1
DHT22
TEMP & RH
SENSOR
3
VOUT
4
GND
24
25
26
Vcc
27
SDA
RTC
28
SCL
GND
78L05
GND
IN
OUT
D1
A
9
X1
16MHz
22pF
10
22pF
PC6/RST
PD3
PD0
PD4
PD1
PD5
PD2
PD6
PC1
PD7
PC2
PC3
IC1
ATMEGA-168
PC0
PB1
PC4
PB0
PC5
PB2
XTAL1/PB6
XTAL2/PB7
GND
8
1.8k
PB3
PB5
PB4
GND
22
This Arduino-compatible data logger comprises a DHT22 temperature/
humidity sensor, Real Time Clock
Module, an ATmega 168 microprocessor, an SD memory card holder,
five status LEDs and supporting
circuitry. Every 30 minutes the data
logger will record the time and date,
temperature in °C and the humidity
and store it in the SD memory card.
The SD card has a voltage divider
to change the signal voltage from
3.3V to 5V so that the Atmega 168
can successfully read/write to it and
a voltage divider has been used to the
derive the 3.3V rail for the card from
(LED1) and “run” mode (LED2),
showing when you can set the exposure time or alternately when the
counter is running. The pushbutton
inputs (pins 3-6) use the “pullup”
command to enable internal pullup resistors. For reliable operation,
use pushbuttons fitted with “snap
action” mechanisms.
After each exposure cycle is completed the 3-digit display blanks
out while a short tune plays on the
piezo speaker. The previously saved
exposure time is then displayed.
The LED array consists of four
identical rows containing three UV
LEDs, each with a 390Ω current
siliconchip.com.au
GND
A
K
+
12V
DC IN
D1 1N817
–
470 µF
25V
5
LEDS
6
11
K
A
12
13
23
5 x 330 Ω
LED4
LED3
LED2
LED1
A
A
A
A
K
14
16
LED5
A
λ
15
3 x 1.8k
λ
λ
λ
K
K
K
K
λ
+3.3V
CD
17
CS
19
MOSI
VDD
18
SCK
MISO
10 0 µF
10 V
4 x 3.3k
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
SD CARD
SOCKET
WP
K
Arduino temperature
& humidity data logger
1 µF
7
Vcc
20
AVcc
IN
REG1
78L05
the 5V supply from REG1. (Editor’s
note: high speed SD cards may need
a higher current supply rail and so
a 3.3V regulator may be necessary).
The five status LEDs are connected
to port D and are as follows: LED1
= SD card error; LED2 = DHT error;
LED3 = SD write; LED4 = RTC error;
and LED5 = SD card status.
Any errors that occur, such as
disconnected pins, will cause the
corresponding error LED to light
up. On start-up, the SD card status
LED will flash five times, followed
by either a steady light or error LEDs
lighting up. When the minute on the
real time clock is either at “00” or
“30”, it will write the current data to
the SD card. This is indicated by the
limiting resistor and all driven by
Mosfet Q4.The array requires an 18V
DC supply to ensure that it is higher
than the combined forward voltage
drop across the UV LEDs (3.4V per
device) and the series resistor.
The power supply produces a 5V
DC regulated rail for the PICAXE
micro and 18V DC unregulated for
the UV LED array. S5 turns the whole
unit on or off while interlock switch
S6 turns the UV LED array off when
the lid is open. This is important
because looking directly at the UV
LEDs could harm your eyes.
The prototype is a simple wooden
box divided in two compartments.
“SD write” LED
Jed Hodson
briefly flashing.
is this mon
th’s winner
The file in
of a $150 g
ift voucher
which the data
from
Hare & Forb
es
will be written to
by default is named
“datalog.txt”. This can be
changed by renaming it in line 136 of
the programming code. The data can
be read by any computer supporting an SD card slot and a simple (or
complex) text editor. The program is
written in the “Arduino IDE” or “C”
and uses 20,632 bytes (Temperature
and Humidity Data Logger V1.3.ino).
It can be downloaded from http://
www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6
Jed Hodson,
Galong, NSW.
One compartment is used as the
light box and has the UV LED array
mounted on the bottom while a glass
plate is mounted under a hinged lid.
The other compartment holds the
electronics with the timer section
and power supply, while the user
controls and 7-segment displays are
mounted on the compartment lid.
The microprocessor is programm
ed using the ICSP header and a
PICAXE special serial or USB cable to
load the “uvbox_20m2.bas” program.
The software is available from www.
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($60)
September 2013 81
By NICHOLAS VINEN
Lots of new features in . . .
Altium
Designer 2013
PCB layout software
Altium Designer is the successor to the popular Autotrax and Protel
ECAD (Electronic Computer-Aided Design) programs but it has a lot
more features and capabilities than its predecessors. We take a look
at the latest version and detail some of its best features for circuit
design and PCB layout.
I
N THE NOVEMBER 2010 issue of
SILICON CHIP, we reviewed Altium
Designer Summer ’09, along with the
NanoBoard 3000 hardware. At the
time, we had had about a month to try
out Altium Designer but hadn’t done
a lot of serious work with it.
Since then, the software has gone
through a number of revisions and
we have used it extensively for PCB
layout. While it has a lot more capabilities than just PCB layout – including
circuit simulation and microcontroller/FPGA programming – we tend to
mostly use it for drawing up circuits
and subsequently laying out PCBs to
implement them.
We recently decided to take another
look at Altium Designer, for two reasons. Firstly, because a number of
new features and improvements have
been made in the last three years and
secondly, because we now have more
experience with Altium and this has
82 Silicon Chip
given us further insight into its particular strengths and weaknesses.
To recap briefly, for those who
are unfamiliar with Altium, it is a
high-end piece of electronics design
software which runs exclusively on
Windows computers and is used by
many businesses and individuals
to design products ranging from a
single component on a small board
up to monsters with thousands of
components and many layers. It is the
successor to Protel and inherits much
of its predecessor’s design philosophy
while adding a lot more.
New features
While there have been many updates to Altium Designer since we
originally looked at it, AD13 is the
first major update in a few years. It is
installed as a new piece of software,
rather than just updating the previous
version and it introduces a number
of new features. But upon investigation, we realised that most of the
improvements since AD09 have been
introduced incrementally over the
intervening time and these in total
have resulted in an overall substantial
improvement in Altium Designer.
One feature missing from Altium
Designer that has finally been added
in the latest update is layer transparency (see Fig.1). You can now set the
transparency for any visible layer as
a percentage, allowing layers beneath
to be seen through it rather than obscured by it.
This has a couple of important
benefits. Firstly, when doing tricky
routing jobs, it’s helpful to be able to
see all the layers at once so that you
can figure out whether a complex route
(possibly involving multiple vias and
tracks on many different layers) will
work or whether there are too many
obstacles in the way. Previously, this
siliconchip.com.au
required flipping between these layers
to make each in turn the top-most, so
you could see them in their entirety.
The transparency also allows you
to better see just how multiple track
segments in a single layer overlap.
This can be important since Altium
can automatically move and re-route
tracks but only as long as they are continuous and it’s quite easy to get into
a situation where two tracks appear
to be joined but there is a small gap
or overlap in the middle so they are
considered separate. With transparent
tracks, it’s easier to find such situations
and fix them.
Active Bill of Materials
This feature has just been introduced with AD version 13.3 and ties
in with the existing Vault and Bill of
Materials systems, which were already
quite powerful. Basically, what it lets
you do is shop for components for your
design from within Altium and then
associate a given component in your
design to the model and get supplier
information such as price and stock
as well as specifications, images, etc
(see Fig.2).
This can be used to fill in data on
Fig.1: close-up of
a mixed throughhole/surface mount
PCB design with
the new layer
transparency
feature enabled.
Tracks on all
layers can be seen,
through pads
or tracks on the
currently selected
layer.
the schematic, generate a total cost for
the project and ultimately produce a
list of parts to order.
The latest update also improves the
very useful PDF export feature, which
we’ll explain briefly below.
Other useful features
Over the years of using Altium Designer, we’ve found some things that it
is particularly good at doing. In many
cases, these features are not available
with other ECAD (Electronics Computer Aided Design) packages. Here is
a list of those we consider most useful,
in no particular order (we won’t go
into much detail on basic tasks such as
placing components – those are things
that just about any ECAD package can
do and haven’t changed much since
our last review):
• The ability to push tracks and vias,
during and after track routing: this
has come in very handy on a number
of occasions. Compare Figs.1 & 3. All
we did to change the PCB was click
on the lower via to the left of Q28
(labelled “PIN10”) and drag it up and
to the right. If there’s room, Altium will
then re-route tracks around it and even
push some aside (eg, the blue track
labelled “PIN2”) but only as much as
Fig.2: Active Bill of Materials links your design to part suppliers, giving access to real-time data on pricing and stock.
This data can then be used to generate an overall price for manufacturing the design, as well as making sure that all the
parts you need are available in sufficient quantities.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2013 83
Fig.3: the same
PCB as shown in
Fig.1 but here we
have dragged the
“PIN10” via up
and to the right.
Note how nearby
tracks have been
automatically
moved to make
room for it. Doing
this manually can
be time-consuming
on a large, complex
design.
necessary. We cleaned up the result
a bit to remove unnecessary wiggles
in the track but that was only a few
seconds of extra work.
You can do something similar with
tracks too; simply select one and then
drag it and it will move adjacent tracks
as it is dragged, if necessary. You can
even re-order tracks like this in some
cases, eg, when the other track emerges
from a via and the track you are dragging can go around either side.
Of course, you could do this all
manually but it would be quite a lot
of work; PCB layout is an iterative
process for all but the simplest designs
and when using other ECAD packages,
we’ve spent hours ripping up and relaying tracks before we found the best
routing solution. With Altium, this
same job can take minutes if you take
advantage of its ability to push and
re-route tracks for you.
Altium can also potentially move
tracks while you are placing a new
one, as long as you are using the
“HugNPush” mode. In this mode, as
you move the mouse alongside another track, it will place the new one
at a safe distance (ie, adhering to your
minimum clearance rules) but if you
try to move the new track through a
gap that is too small, Altium will move
tracks that are in the way (if possible)
to make room.
• Searching for items on the PCB
based on their characteristics and
doing mass changes. Again, this is
a real time-saver in some situations
compared to other packages which
require you to manually and laboriously change every single one.
For example, let’s say you design a
PCB to be manufactured in a particular factory then you move production
to another factory which has a larger
minimum via size. Your design may
have hundreds or even thousands of
vias. With Altium you can right-click
on one, select “Find Similar Objects”
and you are then presented with a
dialog which allows you to choose
which criteria to select – object type,
layer, hole size and so on.
Upon clicking “OK”, all matching
objects are selected. You can then use
the PCB Inspector (see Fig.4) to alter
their properties en masse. In this case,
you would simply type a new value
into the “Hole Size” input box and
press Enter and the hole size of all
selected vias would change to the new
value. You could also change the via
pad size at the same time, if necessary.
Any clearance violations which result
from this are then highlighted and you
can then fix them by, say, moving the
vias (Fig.5).
This same process can be used to
change text label fonts, line widths,
pad shapes – all manner of object
properties.
• TrueType fonts on PCBs: this is a
simple feature (to use, anyway) but
can make your PCBs look a lot more
classy. We still tend to use the default
vector font for component values and
so on as it keeps file sizes small and
it’s relatively easy to read. TrueType
fonts are great for labelling the board
with its product name, company logo
and so on, for a really professional
presentation.
• 3D view: not as pointless a feature
as it may at first seem. You need to
use components with 3D models (or
make your own) but once you do, all
Fig.4: a “zoomedout” view of the
same PCB as shown
in the earlier
figures with all
vias selected, using
the “Find Similar
Objects” dialog.
The properties of
the objects can then
all be changed at
once using the PCB
Inspector dialog,
shown here. In this
case, we can change
the via drill size,
copper diameter,
tenting (whether or
not they are covered
with solder mask),
net membership and
other properties.
84 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: after increasing
the hole size and
diameter for all vias,
some are now too
close to adjacent
tracks or pads so
these have been
highlighted in green.
This is the “online
design rule check”
feature in operation.
You can also get a
list of violations and
zoom in to see each
one in detail. Each
individual violation
can be fixed by
moving one or more
of the components
which are too close
together, as set by
your chosen design
rules.
you need to render your board in 3D
is a single key press. This can be used
to check component fit, especially
for those which have an overhang.
It can also be used to make sure that
the board and its components will fit
in a specific case, with the shafts and
LEDs lining up with the appropriate
holes and so on.
It’s also a great tool to show clients
what a design will look like before it
has actually been built. Compare the
3D rendering of our CLASSiC DAC
board (Fig.6) to the adjacent photo we
published from a similar angle. It’s a
pretty good match. Note that we built
all the 3D models ourselves, as we are
using a custom library. These are all
built from vertical extrusions, cylin-
ders and spheres. More advanced 3D
models are possible if you have access
to 3D “STEP” models (Standard for
the Exchange of Product model data).
• Complex design rules: design rules
(minimum clearance, minimum track
width, minimum hole size, etc) can
depend on object attributes such as net
membership. For example, say you are
laying out a PCB with high-voltage and
low-voltage sections. You need different track clearance rules depending on
whether the two tracks in proximity
are low-voltage, high-voltage or one
of each.
In many PCB layout programs, you
have to check this manually, eg, set
the track clearance to the minimum
for the low-voltage section and then
check each high-voltage track in turn
to ensure it is far enough away from
any low-voltage tracks. But in Altium
you can set up multiple rules so that
this happens automatically and you
will be alerted if any given pair of
tracks are too close for safety.
For those who aren’t familiar with
the terminology, we should point out
that a “net” is a collection of component pins and tracks which are electrically connected. An Altium schematic
drawing can be used to automatically
generate a list of nets (“netlist”) and
this is brought into the PCB layout,
both to act as a guide during layout
and in order to perform the Design
Rule Check (DRC) which alerts you to
short circuits between nets, nets which
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September 2013 85
Fig.6: a 3D view of our CLASSiC DAC design, using simple 3D models we built ourself using the 3D tools Altium provides.
These are vertical shape extrusions, cylinders and spheres. As you can see, despite the simplicity of this approach, the
result looks quite realistic and can be used both to visualise the design and to check the mechanical fit of components and
overall assemblies before a prototype is built.
are too close to each other (clearance
violations) and so on.
We used net-specific clearance
rules to help lay out the Soft Starter
for Power Tools PCB (published in
July 2012). Once the net classes and
design rules are defined, you can lay
tracks in the low voltage section and
they will automatically stay away from
the high-voltage tracks.
Fig.7 shows an extra track added to
this design, between the low-voltage
section at right and the incoming
mains Active track at left. Note that it is
flagged as violating the clearance rules
with the Active track even though it is
further away from this than it is from
the low-voltage ground track at right.
In fact, Altium has a very powerful
design rule system which allows you
to set up many different custom rules
depending on requirements, eg, some
areas of the PCB can have different
track clearance or width rules and
so on. Design rules are assigned an
order of priority so that you can set up
exceptions to rules and you can even
have rules which are based on boolean
expressions. It’s a powerful system.
• Ability to “tent” individual pads/
vias, change individual hole sizes,
86 Silicon Chip
pad sizes, shapes and component outlines: normally, you define component
characteristics in your PCB library and
them simply place them on a board.
But there are many times when a component on the PCB must vary from the
default. For example, you may need
to make the pads of a particular component thinner to make enough room
for a track to pass through the middle
while in other cases, you want them to
remain larger to minimise the chance
of tracks being lifted during soldering.
With some PCB layout programs, in
this situation you are forced to create
a new library element with a different pad arrangement and you quickly
end up with many variations of each
component to suit different situations – it’s messy. With Altium, you
can simply edit the component on the
PCB by “unlocking” it and then making changes. You can re-lock it when
you are finished.
This isn’t without its drawbacks –
for example, if you later change the
base component in the library and
then update the PCB with this new
configuration, any changes to components which have been varied are lost
and must be re-applied. So this is a
feature to be used with caution but it
can still be a real time-saver.
We also like the fact that we can
selectively “tent” vias and pads on
either or both sides of the PCB, so that
they are covered with solder mask
during the manufacturing process.
Some layout programs force you to do
all-or-nothing tenting and by making
this part of the manufacturing export
step, you can easily forget to do it, eg,
when re-ordering a board you have
had made previously.
• Interactive routing: while other
PCB layout packages have interactive routing, Altium’s version works
particularly well. We described the
most useful modes, “Walkaround”
and “HugNPush”, in our last review.
One useful feature we didn’t ment
ion is the ability to press the backspace
key while laying a multi-segment track
to go back a step if the last segment
didn’t get placed quite where you
wanted it to. It’s also quite easy to
move track segments after laying them
without having to re-do the connecting
segments.
Also, because Altium picks up the
initial track size from the pad/track
which you click on to start placing, you
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This is the fully-assembled
CLASSiC DAC PCB. It clearly
demonstrates the realistic
appearance of the Altium 3D
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This may seem like a small point but it
saves a lot of fiddling and frustration.
Also, when a new component or
via is placed, if it is in contact with
an existing track, it is automatically
added to the same net. You have to
be careful since that may not always
be what you want but it’s very handy
for example when placing vias on a
ground or power plane – although
there is also an automatic via stitching feature which can do this for you.
• Polygon pours: while this is a common feature of PCB layout programs,
Altium’s handling of it works particularly well. For a start, after placing a polygon, you can easily move
its corners and edges, add vertices
and so on. It’s also easy to re-pour a
polygon (around tracks, pads and other
polygons) and to “shelve” it, which
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Fig.7: Altium’s powerful Design Rule Checking system has several benefits for
PCB design and layout. This demonstration shows how tracks assigned to nets
in various “net classes” can have different clearance rules. The track at left
carries 230VAC mains voltage (≥100 thou clearance) while the track at right
is low voltage (≥20 thou clearance) and hence the added track in the middle
causes a rule violation for one but not the other.
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September 2013 87
How Multi-Layer PCBs
Are Designed & Made
I
N THIS ARTICLE, we have referred to
“tented vias” and “polygon pours” but readers may not be familiar with these terms.
Making double-sided and multi-layer PCBs is
quite complex so we won’t give the full details
here but the following information should go
some way towards explaining these terms.
As with a single-sided PCB, double-sided
PCBs are generally made using a sheet of
fibreglass as a substrate but with copper
foil laminated on both sides and then etched.
The problem is how to connect the tracks on
the top of the board to those on the bottom.
The simplest method is to drill a hole through
both and then solder a wire or component
lead on both sides. But this is virtually impossible for components that sit right on the PCB
surface and soldering feed-through wires is
expensive and time-consuming.
Vias
Vias are used to perform the same function. To create a via, a hole must still be
drilled but it can be quite small; they are typically around 20 thou or 0.5mm in diameter
although larger/multiple vias are used for
high-current tracks. Copper is then plated
onto the cylindrical fibreglass surface of the
hole, forming a hollow wire which joins the
two tracks.
In fact, a modern double-sided board will
have all or most of the holes plated, including
those for component leads. This means that
component leads are held into their mounting
holes more strongly than they would be if
temporarily removes it from the design
as this makes it easier to edit tracks
which intersect with it.
You can define the polygon pour
order which is important for deterministic results when polygons overlap.
You can also determine whether copper is poured directly into contact with
pads or if they are instead connected
with (thermal) “reliefs” which are
basically short sections of track. This
is important to avoid dry joints for
components connected to large copper
planes which can otherwise act as a
heatsink during soldering.
The polygon-pad connection style
can be defined on a per-PCB or per88 Silicon Chip
they were just soldered to the copper tracks,
even if soldered on both sides. It’s also easier
to just plate all the holes although exceptions
can be made if necessary.
Most modern PCBs also have a “solder
mask” layer applied as one of the final steps.
This is a polymer film which covers the
copper tracks but leaves the pads exposed,
making accidental track-to-track, track-topad or pad-to-pad bridges much less likely
when soldering. It also greatly reduces the
amount of solder required when using wave
soldering and helps improve the reliability of
reflow soldering.
Since the holes drilled in a PCB aren’t necessarily perfectly aligned with the tracks, vias
require a certain amount of copper around
them on both sides to make sure the hole is
touching copper and thus the through-plating
makes the required connection. But it isn’t
necessary to solder anything to these vias
and often they are placed under components,
making it impossible.
So it’s common to have the solder mask
completely cover a via. This is known as
“tenting”. Through-hole pads may also be
tented on one side of the board, which we
find helps with soldering (less solder wickthrough).
with just the two layers becomes excessive.
ICs in packages with very closely spaced pins
or lands (ie, those in BGA or LGA packages)
generally require at least four layers to “break
out” all the connections from the IC to tracks
leading away from it.
Multi-layer boards are fabricated as multiple thin double-sided boards which are then
laminated together. Clearly, alignment in this
process is very important. Additional steps
are required to allow vias to pass through
multiple layers.
The simplest form of via on a multi-layer
board is one which goes all the way from
the top layer to the bottom layer, joining
all the layers between. However it is also
possible to have a “blind via”, which starts
at either the top or bottom layer but terminates at some intermediate layer, leaving the
remaining copper layers above or below it
electrically isolated. Similarly, it is possible
to have “buried vias” which are only between
two or more internal layers and not visible
from the outside at all, once the PCB has
been completed.
Altium has comprehensive support for
multi-layer boards and allows each via to
have a unique profile, connecting to some
or all of the layers with different-sized pads
on each layer if necessary.
Polygon pours & thermal reliefs
Sometimes, having just two layers isn’t
enough; vias take up space on the board and
at some point a design becomes so complex
that the number of vias required to lay it out
The copper tracks used to join components are usually formed from line segments; curves are also possible and for
radio-frequency signals may be required. But
sometimes you need to join many pads and
vias together and the easiest way is to do a
“flood fill”, where all the otherwise unoccupied areas on a particular layer are filled with
a continuous island of copper and this island
is then connected to each point as required.
polygon basis, which is useful because
for high-power tracks you may need
the direct connection whereas components connected to a signal ground
plane can do so via reliefs. You also
get several options for each polygon
pour, for example, whether to remove
“dead” copper, ie, copper islands with
no actual electrical connection.
• Net & layer highlighting: when you
move a mouse over a track or pad in
Altium, the connected net is automatically highlighted. But more importantly, you can hold down Control and
click a net and the rest will dim. These
two effects can be used in combination to see where various tracks cross
over on different layers and so on.
A feature we find even more useful –
even vital in some cases – is the ability to view and edit a single layer of a
PCB at one time which is accessed via
the Shift + S keyboard shortcut. This
is a great way to remove the clutter
from the display when working on a
complex layout and it’s also incredibly
useful when you are trying to select a
group of tracks but not the components
or other objects that connect to them.
One could get a similar effect by
manually disabling all but one layer
and then re-enabling them later but
that would be a lot of work. With this
shortcut, you can easily flip between
Multi-layer boards
siliconchip.com.au
This is a common way to make ground
connections but can also be used for power
distribution on multi-layer boards. On a
four-layer board, it may be the case that one
layer is used for ground (bottom, say), one
for power (top) and two for signal routing.
This means that wherever ground or power
is required – and for some designs, that may
be at hundreds of different points – you just
need to place a via at that point from the
appropriate power plane layer.
Any through-hole pads must be on the top
or bottom layer, to allow components to be
soldered to it after the PCB has been made,
so in this case you need a “hole” in the power
or ground plane so it isn’t shorted to one of
those. Most PCB layout programs therefore
provide an automated polygon pour feature.
You specify a layer and an outline (which
may be the whole PCB or a section of the
PCB) and assign it to a particular net. Within
that outline, all blank spaces (or depending
on settings, contiguous blank spaces) are
filled with copper, with an appropriate clearance to all adjacent tracks and pads. Tracks
or pads within this area that are assigned to
the same net are joined to or merged with
this copper fill.
Fig.9 on the following page shows a
portion of the CLASSiC DAC PCB which has
ground planes on both the top and bottom
layers formed by “polygon pours”. As you
can see, it is automatically poured around
the vias that are under IC5. Also note the “via
stitching” joining the two ground layers for
a low impedance at upper left.
Thermal reliefs
The vias between the top and bottom
ground planes in Fig.9 use the “direct connect” style where a hole is simply drilled
through the two planes and plated though,
top and bottom layers (or on a multilayer board, inner layers) to follow
what is going on.
• Layer sets: a quick and easy way
of showing or hiding groups of layers
at once. For example, you can have
a minimal layer set (top and bottom
copper plus pads, say) and a more
complete layer set for when you need
to see everything (including mechanical layers) and quickly switch to the
minimal layer set while doing routing.
• PDF export: this is a great way
to show schematics to co-workers
or create documentation for clients.
Larger designs will normally take up
multiple schematic sheets and these
siliconchip.com.au
giving the lowest possible resistance for the
connection.
However, the pads joining to this ground
plane (ie, the pin of each component that’s
connected to ground) are joined using “thermal reliefs”. This is true for both through-hole
and SMD components. For example, look
at the two capacitors to the left of IC5. The
left-most pad of each is isolated from the
ground plane by a narrow ring where the
copper has been etched away, except in four
places, 90° apart.
The idea here is that the electrical resistance of the connection is still very low
because although the sections joining the
pad to the ground plane may be narrow,
they are also very short. This usefully raises
the thermal resistance between the pad and
ground plane. The ground plane, being a large
sheet of copper foil, has a fairly low thermal
resistance to the ambient air surrounding
the board.
As a result, trying to solder any components directly to the ground plane is going
to be more difficult as it will draw heat away
from the joint. Molten solder applied to the
PCB that is hot enough to solder a component
joined to a thin track (eg, during wave soldering) may solidify on a ground-connected
pad before a proper joint has been formed.
But the relief-connected pads have an intermediate thermal resistance to ambient, ie,
lower than other pads but not much lower
and so only a small amount of extra heat is
required when soldering.
The thermal reliefs may seem too small
to make a noticeable difference but if you
try soldering to pads with both connection
styles you will find that the difference is quite
significant. And when using automated assembly techniques, relief connections may
be required to get consistent results.
can be exported in a single action to
a multi-page PDF. With the latest version of Altium, you can even click on
components in the PDF schematic to
see the component attributes (type,
voltage, power rating, tolerance etc).
You can also export the PCB to a PDF
but this is less useful for a variety of
reasons, including low contrast with
red/blue on white (for some reason it’s
much easier to see on black). We prefer
exporting PCBs to Gerber files, which
can also be sent off for manufacture.
Advanced features
Altium also has a number of features
which we do use but rarely. Many
of these are important for designing
commercial equipment, especially
high-speed digital circuits. For example, when laying out boards with
fast memory (eg, DDR) or high-speed
buses, you want to keep each track in
the bus to much the same length, so
that the signals arrive at the other end
simultaneously.
Altium provides a few ways of doing this which really make it easy. In a
recent design, we used the Interactive
Length Tuning feature to lengthen individual tracks in a bus until they were
all the same (Fig.8). With this tool, all
you do is set up the parameters and
“wipe over” a track and zig-zags are
automatically added until its length
has increased to the set maximum.
A similar effect can be achieved
using the “Equalise Net Lengths”
menu option. There’s also an option
for tuning differential pairs, which
are normally routed together but may
need to be modified to have the same
length, depending on the details of the
route. Once you’ve finished routing
tracks, you can then use the Signal
Integrity checker (also visible in Fig.9)
to check that all the tracks meet your
various requirements for overshoot,
undershoot and so on.
Potential improvements
With such a large piece of software,
it’s inevitable that there would be
some things we don’t like. And while
there are a few, generally they are
more minor annoyances than serious
problems. Probably the most obvious
limitation is that you need to keep your
computer hardware up to date to get
decent performance.
Having said that, fast computers are
really quite cheap these days and the
hardware cost is a pretty insignificant
cost of running the software – the license itself being far more expensive.
Altium’s disk footprint has been somewhat reduced by recent updates, from
multiple gigabytes down to about 1GB
if you are mainly doing PCB layout
work, which shows that they have a
desire to optimise the software rather
than just adding more “bloat”.
We do occasionally run into bugs
but generally these do not result in any
lost work – Altium has a pretty good
system for automatically handling
“exceptions” gracefully. But on occasion, it can go into an endless loop
and it has to be terminated. Normally
though, this only happens when using
September 2013 89
Fig.8: Altium
has a number of
advanced design
features for
modern, highspeed digital/
analog PCB
designs. Here we
are showing two –
Interactive Length
Tuning (to add the
“wiggles” to the
tracks in the bus at
left) and the Signal
Integrity dialog
which performs
analysis of the
design to ensure
it meets design
specifications.
one of the newer features; the basic
PCB layout portion of the software
itself is quite reliable.
We have also run into some fussiness importing and exporting certain
types of file, such as old Protel PCB
files and Gerber files. PCB files generally import correctly except that
sometimes text is misplaced or rotated.
PCB files are sometimes not exported
correctly though – for example, if you
export a PCB with a polygon fill to a
format that doesn’t support polygons,
they are silently dropped from the
design. We should probably consider
ourselves lucky that Altium still supports such an ancient file format at
all – in a similar situation, many other
vendors would forget it entirely.
As for Gerber files, the format is
notoriously poorly standardised so it
isn’t surprising that we have to fiddle
with the file headers to get Altium to
successfully import a file produced
in another ECAD package. With a
modified header, it processes the file
correctly.
Some areas of the user interface
which we previously would have
criticised have been improved with
updates over the last few months. It’s
somewhat unusual when a software
company brings out frequent updates
to their product and they actually
make it noticeably better! For example,
certain menus which appear during
PCB editing now pop up more quickly,
resulting in a smoother work flow.
Conclusion
Fig.9: close-up of a PCB design (the CLASSiC DAC) showing copper ground
planes on both top and bottom layers made using polygon pours. Note how the
“poured” copper “flows” around vias, tracks and any other areas of copper that
belong to different nets. Component pads joined to the ground plane are via
“thermal reliefs” while vias are joined directly to both planes.
90 Silicon Chip
Altium Designer is a very powerful tool for PCB layout, especially for
demanding designs. That comes at a
price though: $A7245 + GST initially
and $A1750 + GST per year for updates after the first year. That’s not an
unreasonable amount to pay for such
a powerful tool if it’s used every day
in a commercial environment but it’s
certainly out of the reach of amateurs;
there is a (much cheaper) student version though.
We would certainly recommend
Altium as a circuit and PCB design
and layout tool, if you can afford it. It
has so many useful features that users
will need to attend some of their training seminars before they will have a
chance to use its full potential.
For further information, contact
Altium on +61 2 9410 1005 or email
SC
sales.au<at>altium.com
siliconchip.com.au
Vintage Radio
By Ian Batty
Best Of British: the Bush
TR82C Mk.2 transistor radio
A classic 7-transistor set from the early 1960s
manium transistors in the front end,
it was a solid performer. By contrast,
the TR82C Mk.2 described here used
alloy-diffused AF117 transistors in
the front end.
A Mullard design brief in 1960 for
a 6-transistor set with three alloydiffused transistors described it as offering “outstanding performance”. So
was Bush TR82C based on this circuit?
A quick check in my Mullard “Reference Manual of Transistor Circuits”
revealed that the Bush set is almost
identical to Mullard’s design.
In addition, having previously given
Raytheon’s T-2500 (also a 7-transistor
set) a thorough going-over, I was curious to see what differences there were
between it and the TR82C.
Face-off: T2500 vs TR82C
Bush Radio began in 1932, becoming part
of the Rank empire in 1945. Along with
the iconic DAC90 and DAC10 valve radios,
they also produced the distinctive TV22 TV
set. Here we take a look at their distinctive
TR82C Mk.2 7-transistor radio.
I
F THE BUSH TR82C’s classic styling evokes the era of rock’n’roll, it’s
with good reason. But it’s not exactly
unique, the styling having been based
on an earlier valve portable designated
the MB60.
Released in 1957 and designed by
the brilliant David Ogle, the MB60
just screamed “modernity”. It set a
siliconchip.com.au
benchmark for style which was wellmatched by its performance and sound
quality.
Background to the TR82C
With the 1950s transistor revolution
well under way, Bush responded in
1959 with the TR82. Initially kitted
out with alloy-junction OC44/45 ger-
Whereas Raytheon used a craftsman-built timber cabinet, Bush settled for an elegant moulded cabinet
with clean, bold lines. A large dial
dominates the front, with its anodised
red scale set back in a well behind the
tuning wheel. As a result, unlike the
Raytheon’s “fiddly” dial, the TR82C is
easily tuned using either a single finger
or a thumb and fingertip spanning
across the dial wheel. In addition, the
TR82C uses a slow-motion dial for ease
of tuning (as does the T2500).
The volume, wave-change and on/
off-tone controls all sit in a well at
the top of the case. The volume and
on/off-tone control knobs are wellknurled and easy to operate, while
the MED(ium) and LONG waveband
switches are easy to access and respond positively. Ergonomically, this
is one of the best sets in my collection.
By contrast with other sets, the cabinet uses a variety of trims. The metal
parts are chrome-plated and the plastics are either in their original colours
or “flashed” with bright finishes. The
control legends are recess-moulded
and filled with dark paint, making
them highly wear resistant. In my set
though, the dial wheel has yellowed
and grazed with age. This badly dims
September 2013 91
Fig.1: the Bush TR82C is a 7-transistor superheterodyne set with a push-pull audio output stage. Transistor VT1 is the
converter stage, VT2 & VT3 are IF amplifier stages and VT4-VT7 form the audio amplifier with T1 acting as a phasesplitter. Switch S1 selects between the AM broadcast band and the long-wave (LW) band.
TR82C, so it was interesting to see
how it handled strong signals (see
“Performance” section below).
Circuit description
The TR82C’s volume, wave-change and on-off/tone controls sit in a recessed
well at the top of the case. A large dial “wheel” on the front of the set is used
for tuning and is easy to operate.
the appearance of bright red anodising
on the tuning scale.
In summary, in the design and usability race, the Bush TR82C is the
clear winner over Raytheon’s T-2500.
Design basics
Like the Raytheon T-2500, the Bush
TR82C uses a conventional metal chassis. It’s made from aluminium and is
fitted with insulated mounting pins for
the transistors (somewhat reminiscent
of valve sockets). The transistors are
mounted on the rear side of the chassis,
92 Silicon Chip
allowing easy access to measure pin
voltages. It also makes it easy to desolder and replace individual transistors.
On the design front, the TR82C uses
a fairly conventional front-end: a selfoscillating mixer (converter) followed
by two IF stages and a diode detector
which also applies AGC to the first IF
stage. By contrast, some competing
designs (including Mullard’s 1960
proposal) employed an auxiliary AGC
diode to reduce converter gain on very
strong signals.
This refinement is absent on the
Fig.1 shows the circuit details. The
Bush TR82C is a 2-band set covering
both medium-wave (MW) and longwave (LW) frequencies. These bands
are selected using a somewhat unusual
inductor/capacitor switching method.
The tuning gang (CV1, CV2) uses
identical sections for the aerial and
local oscillator (LO) circuits. Note that
many single-band sets use a simplified
LO section without a padder capacitor.
However, this is impractical with a
multi-band set such as the TR82C, as
the LO would not track on any band
other than the MW (broadcast) band.
For MW, both tuned sections of the
ferrite rod antenna (L2, L4) are in parallel. This gives better signal coupling
but yields a total inductance lower
than either section alone.
The MW antenna trimmer (CT1) is
permanently connected across the MW
tuned winding (L2), while the tuning
gang’s antenna section (CV1) is wired
across the LW tuned winding. When
the LW band is selected, the MW
tuned winding is disconnected and
the LW winding (L4) only (still with
the tuning gang connected) is used.
In addition, the LW antenna trimmer
(CT4) and shunt capacitor C5 are also
now switched into circuit.
S1 switches the input to the converter between the two low-impedance
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the speaker (front) side of the chassis. Note the large ferrite rod antenna and the point-to-point wiring
method used (ie, no PCB). All the parts are easy to access.
antenna windings, depending on the
band selected, ie, winding L3 for MW
and winding L5 on LW.
The LO uses a single coil assembly,
with L6 acting as the primary, L7 providing feedback and L8 used with CV2
for tuning. This means that a single
adjustment affects the low-frequency
end of both bands.
Basically, the designers have relied
on correct alignment for the MW band,
with padding and shunting capacitors
added to correct for the LW band. For
MW, a 556pF padder (C9) ensures correct LO tracking over the 995-2075kHz
range, ie, a consistent 470kHz (the IF)
above the MW band’s range of 5251605kHz. The trimmer capacitor is
CT3, with C3 in parallel.
Alternatively, when the LW band is
selected, shunt capacitor C1 (515pF)
restricts the LO range to about 528650kHz, ie, 470kHz above the 158280kHz LW band.
Self-oscillating mixer
Transistor VT1 is basically configured as a self-oscillating mixer. This is
an AF117 transistor and uses collectoremitter feedback, thereby reducing
radiation from the LO.
siliconchip.com.au
As mentioned, the intermediate
frequency (IF) section operates at
470kHz which is slightly more than
the customary 455kHz. The IF section
begins with IF transformer L9/L10
which has tapped and tuned primary
and secondary windings.
Transistor VT2 is the first IF amplifier stage. This is another AF117 and
is biased via the AGC circuit, with
R14 supplying a bias current. The
rectified output from diode detector
D1 (an OA90) “bucks” the bias (via
R12 & R13) with an opposing positive
voltage that increases with increasing
signal strength.
This AGC voltage changes the base
bias and hence the current gain of
VT2, thereby helping to maintain
near-constant volume regardless of the
signal strength.
The second IF transformer (L11/L12)
also uses tapped and tuned primary
and secondary windings. This in turn
feeds the second IF amplifier which is
based on transistor VT3, the set’s third
AF117. This stage operates with fixed
bias for maximum, constant gain.
Note that neither IF transistor uses
neutralisation/unilateralisation to combat the effects of collector-base feed-
back (Miller Effect). This is quite low
in alloy-diffused transistors and gives
no problems at low radio frequencies
(such as 455-470kHz).
The third IF transformer (L13/L14)
has a tuned, tapped primary and an
untuned, untapped secondary. This
secondary winding matches the low
impedance of the detector diode (D1).
Thus far, the design is similar to the
Mk.1 version, except that the Mk.1
used lower-performing alloy-junction
transistor types, ie, OC44/OC45. However, these did require neutralisation
networks for proper operation.
Audio stages
The audio section in the earlier
Mk.1 version was unusual, with the
first two stages being direct-coupled.
It achieved good thermal stability and
dispensed with one coupling capacitor, thereby improving low-frequency
response.
The Mk.1 set also used an unusual
“local” feedback scheme in the ClassB output stage. This involved using
two extra windings on the output
transformer, one for each emitter connection, with the resulting feedback
reducing distortion in the output stage.
September 2013 93
This is the view inside the set with the back cover removed. Note that the transistors are all mounted on this side of the
chassis, with their leads terminated on insulated solder pins, making it easy to desolder and replace them if necessary.
The method of construction used is reminiscent of that used for valve sets.
By contrast, the TR82C Mk.2 circuit ditches the direct-coupled audio
preamplifier stages and reverts to the
more common 2-stage configuration
with resistance-capacitance coupling.
As shown on Fig.1, the detected
signal from D1 is fed to volume control
(RV1) and from there to the first audio
stage (VT4, OC71) via capacitor C19
(8µF). Tone control RV2, connected
to the base of VT4, applies adjustable
“top cut” to this audio signal. This
tone control also integrates the power
switch, unusually switching both positive and negative battery leads.
VT4 in turn drives the second audio
stage (VT5, OC81D). This transistor
operates with a collector current of
about 2mA and only dissipates about
20mW, yet it is mounted in a clip
heatsink. This heatsink would appear
to be unnecessary and may be there
simply to provide a convenient way
of anchoring the transistor in place.
Transistor VT5 drives the primary
of transformer T1 which operates as
a phase splitter. Its centre-tapped secondary then drives a push-pull output
stage based on transistors VT6 & VT7
(both OC81D) and these in turn drive
the centre-tapped primary winding of
speaker transformer T2. T2’s second94 Silicon Chip
ary then drives the speaker or a set of
headphones (or an external speaker)
via a headphone socket.
Unlike the Mk.1 version, the TR82C
Mk.2 includes trimpot RV3 to allow
the output stage bias to be adjusted
to minimise crossover distortion. It
also includes a common emitter resistor (R28) to provide a small amount
of feedback. The Mk.2 version also
provides a feedback loop from the
collector of output transistor VT7 to
the base of driver stage VT5, ie, via
R25. This feedback further reduces
the audio distortion.
The output power is quoted as
325mW at 10% distortion. It’s fairly
modest but enough to provide comfortable listening levels.
Cleaning up
Despite its age, the chassis was still
in good condition and was operating
normally. All that was required was
a quick touch up of the alignment
adjustments. During this process, I
discovered that both aerial trimmers
needed extra capacitance for optimum
performance and I ended up adding a
10pF capacitor in parallel with each
one.
As obtained, the set also needed
a good clean, both inside and out. I
began this process by first dismantling
the case, separating the front and back
covers and the central section.
These two covers were in good
shape physically but were grubby and
had dirt lodged on the bottom lands of
the grilles. A little “elbow-work” with
some widow cleaner and a toothbrush
soon had them sparkling again. The
dial well was also grubby and this
responded to a careful once-over with
a cream cleanser.
In addition, the chrome bands were
covered in some form of hardened
grease/dirt composite. They were
cleaned up with some judicious scrubbing and came up looking like new.
Unfortunately, the cabinet’s blue
middle section was a different matter. It was covered with some kind of
brown, greasy film (probably from a
kitchen) that proved to be quite stubborn to shift. After using a sponge
wetted with a liquid kitchen cleaner to
little effect, I tried using to a microfibre
pad. This had proved to be effective
in the past for removing all kinds of
accumulations, including marker pens
and paint.
It did a reasonable job but the blue
colouring gradually built up on the
siliconchip.com.au
The photo at left shows the appearance of the bright red dial scale after the tuning wheel had been removed, so that the
chassis could be removed from the cabinet. The rear cover is removed by undoing a single screw.
pad, showing that part of the plastic
surface was coming off with the grease.
Rather than wreck it, I didn’t push my
luck too far and left it before I was really happy with it.
Removing The
Tuning Knob
Performance
The audio frequency response from
the volume control to the loudspeaker
is 170Hz to 12kHz but the RF/IF section crops the upper frequency limit
to just 2.2kHz. A measured selectivity
figure of -60dB at ±13kHz confirms this
narrow RF/IF bandwidth, a result of
the two double-tuned IF transformers
The audio performance is quite
good: at 10mW output, the total harmonic distortion (THD) is 1.6% at
1kHz. This falls to 1.1% at 50mW,
implying some crossover distortion or
transistor mismatch at very low levels.
At 250mW, the THD is just 1.7% and
the set easily bettered its 10% quoted
distortion at full output, giving just
under 5% at 325mW.
The sensitivity is outstanding, the
set delivering 50mW output (for a
20dB signal-to-noise ratio) for an RF
input of just 7.5µV at the aerial terminal. Note that this is with the volume
control “backed off” to give the 20dB
noise figure. At full volume, this set
needs just 1.5µV at 600kHz and 2.5µV
at 1400kHz for 50mW.
It’s pretty noisy at full gain though,
with a signal-to-noise ratio of just 3dB
at 600kHz and 8dB at 1400kHz. Its
long-wave performance is quite impressive – a sensitivity of 2.5µV for a
20dB signal-to-noise ratio approaches
the 1µV “gold standard” for valve sets
using RF stages.
The signal strength received by the
ferrite rod antenna needs to be around
100µV/m at 600kHz and 80µV/m at
siliconchip.com.au
amplifier stage (VT2) falling to near
zero at this point. The Mullard design’s additional damping diode and
two resistors (shown in dotted lines
on Fig.1) would reduce (or prevent)
this problem.
Would I buy another?
The TR82C’s tuning knob is a press
fit onto the tuning gang shaft and
Bush’s servicing manual recommends
using a suction cup to pull the knob
off. It also clearly advises against
attempting to apply pressure using
“screwdrivers or other levers’.
Another method is to wrap three
or four lengths of string around the
centre boss to form a simple “puller”
arrangement. The above photo shows
how this is done.
Given the opportunity, would I buy
another one? The answer is “yes”.
In fact, there’s also an FM/MW/LW
version, the Bush VTR103, which I’ve
ordered. It uses the same stylish case
as the TR82C Mk.2 and an equally
impressive circuit design, so I expect
it to also be a good performer. There’s
also a quite rare version that uses a
miniature valve as the converter and
transistors for the IF and audio stages.
Yet another version, the TR82D,
is identical to the TR82C except that
it has a different cabinet colour. My
TR82C has a light olive-green front
and back, with a blue intermediate
band and a cream handle. By contrast,
the TR82D is cream with a tan band.
Resurrection
1400kHz for an output of 50µW and a
20dB signal-to-nose ratio. At full volume, the sensitivity is around 20µV/m.
These measured values closely agree
with the figure in the original 1960
Mullard design paper.
The “noisiness” at full gain justifies the claim that converter noise is
a limiting factor in weak-signal performance for superhets of all kinds.
The AGC control is excellent for
moderate signals, with a 30dB increase
in signal giving just a 6dB increase in
output power. The set does, however,
go into RF/IF overload for signals over
about 20mV/m. This is confirmed by
the collector current for the first IF
Finally, the Bush TR82C’s classic look has just been revived with
the release of the Bush TR82DAB, a
modern DAB+/FM/AM/LW radio. The
TR82DAB’s cabinet looks virtually
identical to the earlier 1960s design
and a full review appears elsewhere
in this issue.
Further Reading
(1) There are several discussion threads
on: http://www.vintage-radio.com/
(2) For a company history and listing
of sets: http://www.bushradio.co.uk/
(3) The original service data is available (along with many other UK sets)
at: http://www.service-data.com/ SC
September 2013 95
SILICON
CHIP
.com.au/shop
ONLINESHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest SILICON CHIP project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re after.
Or a pre-programmed micro. Or some other hard-to-get “bit”. The chances are they are available direct from the SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP.
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Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
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Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11) 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13) Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (JuL13)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
Intelligent Dimmer (Apr09)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/P
Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
ATMega48
Stereo DAC (Sep-Nov09)
PIC18F4550-I/P
PIC18F14K50
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
PIC18LF14K22
PIC18F1320-I/SO
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
# P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
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SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, SHORT-FORM KITS, ETC
RF Probe All SMD parts
G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER Short form kit
(Aug13)
$5.00
(Aug11/Nov11)
$44.50
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL Short form kit
(Aug11/Nov11)
$44.50
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
CLASSiC DAC Semi kit
(Feb-May13)
$45.00
Includes three hard-to-get SMD ICs: CS8416-CZZ, CS4398-CZZ and PLL1708DBQ plus
an accurate 27MHz crystal and ten 3mm blue LEDs with diffused lenses
“LUMP IN COAX” MINI MIXER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
$20.00
Includes: 2 x OPA4348AID, 1 x BQ2057CSN, 2 x DMP2215L, 1 x BAT54S, 1 x 0.22Ω shunt
LF-HF UP-CONVERTER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
$15.00
Includes: FXO-HC536R-125 and SA602AD and all SMD passive components
ISL9V5036P3 IGBT
As used in high energy ignition and Jacob’s Ladder
P&P – $10 Per order#
(Nov/Dec12)
(Feb13)
ERA-2SM+ Wideband MMC and ADCH-80+ Wideband Choke
as used in the 2.5GHz Frequency Counter
(Dec12/Jan13)
IPP230N06L3 N-Channel logic level Mosfets
As used in a variety of SILICON CHIP Projects (Pack of 2)
ZXCT1009 Current Shunt Monitor IC
As used in DCC Reverse Loop Controller/Block Switch (Pack of 2)
TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD896 or 898) (Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 3-WAY
(Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 2-WAY
(Jan12)
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC to play!)
n/a
*ALL ITEMS SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES IN AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS AND INCLUDE GST WHERE APPLICABLE.
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$33.00
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$62.00
09/13
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
NOTE: These listings are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
PCB CODE:
Price:
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
JAN 1993
06112921 $25.00
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981 $10.00
MINIMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
APR 2001
06104011 $25.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021 $10.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031 $10.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031 $25.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041 $10.00
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041 $25.00
LITTLE JIM AM TRANSMITTER
JAN 2006
06101062 $25.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061 $25.00
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
APRIL 2006
01104061 $25.00
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061 $25.00
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061 $25.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (A) (IMPROVED)
MAR 2007
04103073 $30.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
MAR 2007
04103072 $20.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071 $25.00
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071 $20.00
CDI MODULE SMALL PETROL MOTORS
MAY 2008
05105081 $15.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081 $10.00
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER (Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec 2010 [18112101])
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
JAN 2009
10101091 $45.00
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091 $35.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
MAY 2012
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01111113 $10.00
04111111 $20.00
07111111 $10.00
18112111
$5.00
01212111 $30.00
0121211P2/3$20 per set
06101121 $10.00
01201121 $30.00
0120112P1/2 $20.00
01101121/2 $30 per set
01102121 $20.00
18102121
$5.00
04103121 $40.00
04103122 $40.00
04103123 $75.00
08102121 $10.00
14102112 $20.00
10104121 $10.00
04104121 $20.00
04104122 $20.00
10105122 $35.00
21105121 $30.00
21105122/3 $20 per set
01106121 $20.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
433MHZ SNIFFER
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
LED DAZZLER
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
THE MAXIMITE
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
USB BREAKOUT BOX
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
VOX
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
USB MIDIMATE
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODULE
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)DEC 2012
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB) JAN 2013
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
IPOD CHARGER
AUG 2013
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
24105121
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$10.00
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$7.50
$15.00
$15.00
$20.00/set
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Questions regarding a
PIC digital tachometer
One of my brothers wired a digital
tachometer (that had been sitting
around unused for a long time) into
our boat which has a 1970 V8 petrol
engine. From web searches, the tacho
appears to be a Jaycar KC-5290; the
PCB itself has 05104001 on it.
A 10Ω resistor in it has blown which
I can see is the first component to be
connected to the positive supply. I
suspect that the resistor may have been
rubbing on the capacitor beside it and
if there is an earthed connection there,
that would explain the failure.
Jaycar do not appear to sell this kit
anymore and we do not have a wiring/circuit diagram. Which leads to a
problem – unfortunately there are two
black, two red and one green external
connection wires. The positive and
negative connections are easy to determine as they are marked on the board.
My brother who installed it thought
the other connections were just chosen
based on how many cylinders the vehicle has. From a previous SILICON CHIP
question, it appears that this unit may
have connections for digital tacho
meter output and ignition coil output.
Are you able to supply information on
this and the connections?
Lastly, what is the power supply
voltage range that this unit will safely
run on? (M. K., via email).
• This project was published in the
August 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP. We
can supply a copy of this issue if you
need it. Go to http://www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/2
The 10Ω resistor may have blown if
zener diode ZD1 is installed the wrong
way (cathode is the striped end) or if
the unit was connected to more than
16V DC. The tacho is suited for 12V
DC, ie, up to 15V from a 12V battery.
The wire near pin 4 of the LM358 is
the low input to the tacho and is used
when there is a 5V tacho signal available. The wire to the 22kΩ resistor is
for the ignition coil negative connection when the low voltage signal is
unavailable. The wire from the right
of the 7-way socket is a limiter output
signal.
Setting up for an 8-cylinder engine
is done using the switches and you
would need to read the article for the
procedure.
Photovoltaic panels
for solar hot water
With all the discussion about electric hot water cylinders, solar hot
water systems, grid-connected solar
panels, and the fact that my mains
pressure HW cylinder is 22 years old,
I investigated some options. Solar hot
water panels with a cylinder that has
a stainless tank and where the water
from the panels circulates in a jacket
around the tank seemed a good solution until I priced it. A gas instant hot
water system seems a good option as
well but still expensive.
I then spoke to a local installer of
alternative power systems who suggested this option: connect 10 200W
24V solar panels in series (giving
240V DC), provide a suitable switching system to control the panel output
and enable the AC mains supply to be
used in an emergency.
My question: is this too simplistic
Bass From Headphone Amplifier Seems Light On
I built the Hifi Stereo Headphone
Amplifier described in SILICON CHIP,
September 2011 but it is a bit light
on in the bass region. Do you have
any suggestions?
I checked the capacitors in the input area of the circuit and the values
and polarities are correct so is this
intrinsic with this unit? I’ve also recently purchased a Sony AV receiver
and most of the time at switch on
there’s one hell of a thump from the
receiver but not in the headphones.
Is this normal?
The SILICON CHIP Headphone Amplifier’s audio quality is far superior
to the Sennheiser amplifier and the
Sony AV receiver and both were very
expensive too. Do you think you will
ever publish a coaxial input head98 Silicon Chip
phone amplifier? (D. S., via email).
• The frequency response of the
headphone amplifier is flat to well
below 10Hz which is so low that
it is infrasonic (inaudible). If your
headphones have more bass with
other amplifiers then they have some
artificial boost and they are probably
not as distortion-free.
Note that the sound quality in
stereo mode will always be cleaner
than any setting in surround sound.
Surround sound processing messes
the signal up too much and it is gimmicky anyway.
On the question of turn-on
thumps, well-designed equipment
should have no turn-on thump when
driving speakers or headphones. If
your Sony receiver does this, pos-
sibly it is because you are switching it on at the wall, rather than its
front panel switch or via its remote
control.
As far as a high-quality coaxial
input (S/PDIF) headphone amplifier
is concerned, our CLASSiC DAC
project in the February & March
2012 issues fits that description but
its internal headphone amplifier is
not quite as good as the Hifi Stereo
Headphone Amplifier which you
built.
So for ultimate sound quality,
these two projects could be combined. However, that would be large
and complex project involving a lot
of very tiny surface-mount components which can be difficult and
time-consuming to solder.
siliconchip.com.au
and is he missing something? The open
circuit voltage of the panels could be in
the order of 350V so some form of load
would be required when the cylinder
is up to temperature and the element
switched off and because it is DC
source, a standard thermostat would
not be suitable. I would be interested
in feedback from others on this matter
as it seems a simple solution. 24 200W
panels are about $320.00 NZ dollars
each. (H. R., Taranaki, NZ).
• There would appear to be several
problems with the solar panel approach, superficially attractive that it
is. First, the panels will be delivering
around 34-36V each when optimally
loaded. That means about 350VDC <at>
6.8A (for 2400W) and that means the
optimum load would be a resistance
of about 50Ω. However, your hot-water
tank is likely to be rated at 3600W
and have a heater resistance of 16Ω or
thereabouts – a big mismatch.
You could get a better match by
arranging the panels in two parallel
groups of five, giving an output of
about 175V at 13.7A (for 2400W). This
means the optimum load would be a
resistance of about 13Ω which is much
closer to the tank’s heater resistance so
that could be workable.
However, you would need to investigate the ratings of the thermostat to
see if it could reliably switch 175V
DC (certainly more manageable than
350V DC). You would also need a
DC isolator so that the tank could be
switched back to the mains supply.
Perhaps an isolator switch for a gridfeed solar system could be used here
but the switch-over process might be a
2-step process: isolate the DC from the
panels then use an AC circuit breaker
to connect the mains supply.
Of course, this would all have to be
done by your electrician to make sure
that the whole installation was safe.
Note also that the DC supply approach
may cause corrosion in the heating element unless the polarity was changed
periodically.
Voltage regulator for a
micro hydro plant
I have just finished setting up a micro hydro plant. I am looking to build
a regulator to maintain the charging
instead of the way I do it now which
is simply turning the water on and off.
It is a 48V system. Ideally, I would
like to turn on a heating element when
siliconchip.com.au
Concern About Car Battery Drain
What is considered an acceptable
current drain from a car battery
when it is parked or switched off?
What if the car has a radio (memory
for stations), car alarm and ignition
killer relay? My own car seems
to have a current drain of around
150mA when parked and the ignition is off. (N. D., via email).
• The amount of standby current
drain that can be tolerated depends
on the battery capacity and whether
you can maintain battery charge by
driving the vehicle before the battery becomes so discharged that the
engine cannot be restarted.
As a rough guide, divide the
150mA into the amp-hour (Ah) battery capacity to find the number of
hours the battery can deliver this
current before discharge. Most car
batteries are rated for cold cranking
capacity and reserve capacity (RC).
The cold cranking value cannot be
directly converted to Ah capacity.
The reserve capacity is specified in
minutes and specifies how many
minutes the battery can deliver 25A
before the battery drops to 10.5V. To
convert to Ah, multiply the RC by
25 and then divide by 60 to convert
from minutes to hours.
Typically, the Ah value for low
current draw will be greater than
this since the RC is based on a 25A
discharge and not at 150mA. However, it is best to be conservative
in the Ah estimation so the battery
will have sufficient capacity to start
the engine.
So, for example, a small 4-cylinder
engine vehicle might have a battery
that has an RC of 55 minutes and the
the batteries reach around 56V and
turn off at, say, 53V. I was considering
using the Alternative Power Regulator
(SILICON CHIP, June 2005).
My question is do you know where
the kit is available from and what
would need to be done to convert it
to 48V operation? (G. C., Reefton, NZ).
• This shunt regulator circuit was
designed and supplied by Oatley
Electronics (www.oatleyelectronics.
com) and you would have to check
with them to see if the kit is still available. You should be able to run it from
48V by changing the 120kΩ and 22kΩ
resistors that are provided for 24V
Ah conversion gives about 23Ah. At
150mA drain, the battery will discharge in about 152 hours or just over
six days. We consider that period to
be too short and would prefer the
battery to be capable of maintaining
its charge over several weeks.
If you do not drive the vehicle
often, then consider using a battery
charger to maintain charge using
mains or solar power. Alternatively,
you can find the cause of the excess
current draw and have it switched
off via the ignition.
For your vehicle, the ignition
killer relay might be a cause of the
high current and may well be powered with the ignition off. Further
current drain will be due to the alarm
and vehicle radio/CD/MP3 player
which has a standby current to
maintain its memory settings. These
players can be wired in one of two
ways. One wiring option has just the
memory connected to a permanent
12V supply and the main supply for
the player connected to the ignition
(switched) 12V. That way, only the
memory draws standby power.
Another option is to have the main
power for the player powered from
a permanent 12V supply so that the
player can be used any time, ignition on or off. This has the greater
standby current drain because the
player is then switched on and off
by its own switch. This switching
is usually not just a power switch
but just wakes up the player when
pressed and puts it to sleep when
pressed again to switch it off. When
off, the sleep current maintains
power to the switch-on circuitry.
operation to 426kΩ total (using 390kΩ
and 36kΩ). The Mosfets (Q5-Q9)
should be changed to 100V types.
The 2N5551 transistors are 160V
so they should be OK except for Q1,
as this should be changed to a higher
wattage type such as a BD139 to allow
for about 500mW power dissipation
when regulating from 48V.
Fault-finding the
Digital Spirit Level
I recently needed a device to measure angles and lo and behold SILICON
CHIP had described a Digital Spirit
September 2013 99
Digital Lighting Controller Refuses To Operate
I’ve been building the Digital
Lighting Controller Master Unit as
described in the October 2010 issue
of SILICON CHIP, along with four LED
slave units from the October 2011 issue. I have about 4000 LEDs prepared
in a giant Christmas tree ready to run
with the system for a great display.
In testing the Master unit, on
power-up the LED flashes twice but
fails to pulsate (as per the test procedure) or turn on if a loaded SD card
is present with music files present.
I’ve checked the zero-crossing
circuits and measured a 0.72VAC
signal across pins 4 & 5 of IC1 and
1.65V DC on pin 4 and 0VDC on pin
5 referenced to ground. The LED on
the master unit doesn’t light at all
after the initial two flashes and
hence it doesn’t display the flash
sequence for the various fault codes.
Level in August 2011. Unfortunately,
when powered up, it did not work.
After a quick inspection I found
that I had fitted a 10Ω resistor instead
of 10kΩ from the +3V rail to pin 4 of
IC2. I rectified this and tried it again. I
got one quick red flash on the display
then nothing else. Switching power on
and off did not give another red flash,
however leaving it off overnight, then
switching on did give a red flash. I have
checked a range of voltages.
I have found no voltage drop across
the two 4.7kΩ resistors and there is no
discernible voltage on either end of
any of the 4.7Ω resistors. Since there is
no display, this may be normal. From
the above, can you advise whether IC2
is damaged or has lost its memory or is
IC1 not really connected? I would have
thought that maybe the display would
give some output even if IC1 was open
circuit. Your assistance in this matter
would be greatly appreciated. (D. F.,
Cecil Hills, NSW).
• It is unlikely the 10Ω resistor to pin
4 of IC2 will have caused damage in
the short term. Check for 3V between
ground and pins 1 & 14 of IC1 and pins
1 & 4 of IC2. If these are OK, check
the soldering around IC1. Any broken
connection or short between IC1s pins
will prevent it from working.
Also check the connections between
IC1 and IC2. In particular, check between pin 11 of IC1 and pin 18 of IC2.
100 Silicon Chip
What should my next step be? Replace the 24.576MHz crystal or the
dsPIC micro? Anything else I could
have damaged? (N. W., via email).
• Does the controller pulsate without an SD card? If so, then the micro
is probably OK but there may be
some kind of incompatibility with
the SD card you are using.
We have tested it with a number of
cards but there may be some that it
still has problems with. If it doesn’t
pulsate when you leave the SD card
out, it’s probably a hardware fault.
Another constructor had a similar
problem to you and it turned out to
be a faulty 24.576MHz crystal. Try
replacing that and see if that fixes
the problem.
The unit runs from its internal
7.37MHz oscillator while the bootloader is active (when the LED flashYou should get a 1kΩ reading between
these two pins.
The display shouldn’t show until
the accelerometer chip signals a movement, waking IC2 from sleep. So if IC1
is not connected properly, there will
be no display.
LED Strobe & Tacho
crystal query
With reference to the LED Strobe
& Tachometer circuit in the August
2008 issue, can you confirm that the
crystal capacitors are going to 5V, as I
thought they would be grounded? (A.
D., via email).
• Yes, the crystal capacitors are tied
to the +5V rail rather than more conventionally to the 0V (ground) supply
rail. This was done to simplify the
PCB layout.
They are effectively still grounded
due to the 5V supply decoupling
capacitors connecting the +5V rail to
ground for AC signals. So as far as the
oscillator circuit is concerned, the capacitors are still effectively grounded
and the 5V DC does not couple into
this circuitry as it is blocked by the
capacitors.
Signal overload on
USB DTV dongles
I notice that Jim Rowe has been writ-
es twice) and then switches to the
crystal+PLL after that. If the crystal
is faulty, it will freeze at that stage.
We also had a couple of people with
bad 10µF tantalum capacitors (high
ESR) although in that case, the LED
flashed constantly since the micro
was continuously rebooting when
it tried to enable the PLL, after the
bootloader had finished.
By the way, there was a bug in the
original firmware which prevented
the unit from working properly
with four slaves. You can either
reflash the microcontroller with the
latest code (eg, using the SD card
bootloader) which is available for
download at our website or you can
pull the sense resistor out of one of
the slaves (the bug had to do with it
incorrectly counting the number of
sense resistors).
ing a series of articles about USB DTV
dongles. I have various PCI, USB Tiny
Twin and other dongles. However,
none of the newer ones will tune in
any channels using a high-gain array
and amplifier. All older dongles work
fine. One of the newer dongles is even
nominally the same as an older one.
Am I missing some salient point?
Has Jim been able to get any of these
models to work? (A. G., via email).
• We haven’t tried any of those dongles. Since they may have the Raphael
Micro R820T tuner chips fitted, perhaps this chip is overloaded when
presented with high-level signals.
In fact, it sounds like this might be
happening because you are using a
high-gain antenna array together with
a masthead amplifier.
USB DVB dongles &
Windows 7 64-bit
I read with interest your articles on
DVB dongles and DAB in the April
and May 2013 editions so I decided to
try one out. The item I purchased was
only $6 at the time. It’s now $8.49 but
still cheap. It’s a very neat package and
only uses a single chip (IT9135FN). It
also came with an IR remote control.
I fired it up on a Windows XP system
and it works well with the included
BlazeVideo program. I used the included whip antenna and it only found
siliconchip.com.au
ABC, SBS and C31 stations, including
associated audio programs, and all
worked well. If I used a real antenna I
am sure all other stations would come
in strong.
I have sent you an attached photo
and data sheet for the IT9130. It tunes
from 170MHz ~ 240MHz in the VHF
band and 470MHz ~ 862MHz in the
UHF band.
I then decided to migrate it to my
new Windows 7 64-bit laptop but
BlazeVideo hangs badly when it was
asked to scan channels. It required a
reboot to exit the program. Ctrl-Alt-Del
would not close the program. Have you
had any experience with the Win7/64bit environment? (P. K., Dromana, Vic).
• Jim Rowe did try Blaze Video on a
Win7/64-bit machine and it worked
fine, although the USB driver had to
be installed as the Administrator or it
wouldn’t install properly.
By the way, the chip in your dongle
doesn’t appear to offer FM reception
and as a result it may not be suitable
for use as an SDR front-end. It also
seems to have a much more limited
frequency range.
SDR chip needs
correct dongle
I bought your May 2013 issue,
hoping to install the SDR program
with my Dazzle 71e USB dongle on
my Windows XP machine. Inside the
dongle is a chip with AF9015 written
on it; probably the USB interface chip.
I think the demodulator chip is in the
metallic can so I can’t open it.
Zadig installed the driver successfully according to the message dialog
and it appeared in the driver properties
details as indicated in your magazine.
Everything installed OK but when I
select USB dongle in the SDR program
to start configuration, it says USB
driver not installed or not working. I
have installed the recommended USB
driver as indicated in the magazine
first. However, I am not sure which
one so I used WinUSB.
I hope you can give me some ideas as
to what went wrong or if my USB dongle is incompatible. (F. K., via email).
• We’re not familiar with the DVB-T
dongle you are using, so it’s not possible to say whether it is compatible with
the RTL-SDR driver or SDR software
like SDR#. Have you tried opening
it up, to check if it uses the Realtek
RTL2832U demodulator chip? This
siliconchip.com.au
Faulty Drive On Studio Series Remote Module
I purchased the Studio Series Remote Control Module from Altronics.
The channel switching works fine
and it has been paired effectively
with a remote control unit. Unfortunately though, the motorised volume
pot does not operate from the board.
I tested the pot and it works with
3V up and down (recommended
voltage is 4.5V), manually changing
polarity. It is an ALPS remote pot.
When I removed the motor plug from
the board, the output only measures
1.23V when the UP/DWN button on
the remote control is pressed. Is this
likely to be because of faulty bridge
transistors? (A. D., via email).
• The transistors could be faulty
(unlikely) or they could be transposed; BC327 for BC337 on the PCB
or the base resistors are incorrect
(they should be 1kΩ).
chip is more or less necessary if the
dongle is to be compatible with the
SDR driver and software.
Problems with
lunatic geese
Will your Barking Dog Blaster (SILICON CHIP, September 2012) stop raving
lunatic geese? I am being driven mad
by them. (J. B., via email).
• It will stop raving lunatic geese but
only if they are barking mad.
Seriously, this type of ultrasonic
deterrent simply does not work with
birds of any species, let alone barking
or honking geese. A far better deterrent
may be to build and use a potato gun
but bear in mind that if you do, you
may get complaints from your neighbours and a visit from your friendly
local constable.
Questions on the 12V
stereo amplifier
I am interested in utilising the 12V
stereo amplifier (SILICON CHIP, May
2010). I have the article on the project
but I am not sure about the required
input signal level range. I intend to
use a normal microphone that swings
around 30-150mV, as well as other
adjustable audio input levels up to
500mV on the other channel. The
data says 500mV for 10W into 8Ω.
In operation, PD5 & PD2 will be
high (5V) and PD3 & PD4 will be low
(0V) with the motor off. When the
motor is running, PD5 will go low
and PD3 will go high for one motor
direction and PD2 will go low and
PD4 will be high for the opposite
direction. Check these and check
that the associated transistors are
switching on.
In other words, the collectors of
Q1 & Q2 will be high and the collectors of Q3 & Q4 will be low for one
direction, while the collectors of Q1
& Q2 will be low and the collectors
of Q3 & Q4 will be high for the other
direction.
Also, make sure that VR1 is adjusted clockwise initially so that the
motor can run. Then adjust it back
for it to stop when end of travel is
reached.
I understand that the input can be
smaller at 4Ω.
I also don’t know the PCB dimensions as I will not be using the case
supplied. Can you advise on these
issues please? (I. F., via email).
• Input sensitivity for a 4Ω load is
half that for an 8Ω load so it would
be 250mV RMS for 10W into a 4-ohm
load. Thus you could probably get
away with a direct microphone connection but you wouldn’t be able to
get full output power. That may not
matter, depending on your speaker
efficiency.
Depending on the type of microphone, you may need to increase the
unit’s input impedance to avoid loading it too badly. This can be done by
using a higher-value pot and replacing
the 100kΩ resistors with a higher value
too (1MΩ or above). That will increase
noise a bit but probably not to an unacceptable level.
We have published a number of
microphone preamps (eg, in the July
2008 and September 2010 issues) and
if you connect one of these between
your microphone and the 12V stereo
amplifier that will allow you to adjust
the gain to get full power output from
the amplifier. The September 2010
design should run off 12V without
modifications. The July 2008 design is
designed to run off 5V and may require
a regulator.
September 2013 101
Phantom-Powered Mic For USB Recording Interface
I am interested in using your USB
Stereo Recording & Playback Interface (SILICON CHIP, June 2011) for
testing loudspeakers. I was planning
on using a calibrated microphone
such as the Dayton EMM-6 – see
www.daytonaudio.com/media/
resources/390-801-dayton-audioemm-6-specifications-46337.pdf
I was wondering if the mic inputs
in this project have a suitable level of
gain for this microphone. If not, what
modifications would I need to make?
This mic requires phantom power
and I was keen to include this in the
construction. Have you published
Note that maximum power from
the 12V amplifier is obtained with a
supply voltage above 12V, eg, 14.4V
from a lead-acid battery under charge.
The PCB is 97 x 78mm. This is
mentioned in the parts list.
Clock back-up batteries
should be rechargeable
Like most rural people, we experience a lot of short-term power failures, which frequently means having
to reset all the digital alarm clocks.
9V back-up batteries don’t last and
are expensive so I was wondering if
this warrants a project to replace the
backup batteries with a circuit that
remains charged and solves the constant resetting of digital alarm clocks.
By the way, I can’t seem to find a
digital alarm clock for sale that doesn’t
need a back-up battery. (T. B., Lakes
Entrance, NSW).
• We are not sure what you are
a suitable circuit or project to add
phantom power supply to the mic
inputs? (J. A., Newcastle, NSW).
• There should be no problem with
the mic input gains of the June 2011
Recording & Playback Interface, as
they have quite high maximum gain.
However providing the Dayton
Audio EMM-6 mic with phantom
power would be a tricky, as it needs
a phantom power source of between
+15V and +48V while the June 2011
interface has a supply voltage Vcc of
only around 4.0V (derived from the
USB link). So you’d need to provide
the phantom power from an external
proposing. It sounds like a back-up
circuit with a rechargeable battery.
That seems to be a lot of trouble to go
to just to avoid replacing a 9V battery.
If you use an alkaline type, it should
last for quite a few years (as do smoke
detector batteries). In fact, they should
last for their shelf life, unless you have
a lot of power failures which each last
for many hours.
It may be worth seeing if you can
arrange to fit a rechargeable 9V battery
and have it on a low trickle charge from
the clock’s DC supply via a diode and
a high-value resistor, say 10kΩ.
CDI for
quad bike
I want to try the replacement CDI
module for small petrol motors (SILICON CHIP, May 2008) on a Suzuki LTZ50 quad bike. The article says the
capacitors are AC, meaning alternating
current or does AC stand for something
power supply. Either that or add a
very small DC-DC step-up converter
to derive +15V from the Vcc rail in
the Recording & Playback Interface.
The step-up converter would need
to be carefully shielded to prevent
hash from finding its way into the
interface preamps.
Whichever method you use, the
easiest way to supply phantom
power to the mic is to change the
100kΩ resistors connected to pins 2
& 3 of the input socket to 2.2kΩ, lift
their earthy ends and connect them
together to the phantom power +15V
rail (or use 6.8kΩ for a 48V supply).
else like Audio Capacitor etc? Has
anyone made this work 100% on an
engine? (J. A., Alabama, USA).
• AC refers to alternating current.
These capacitors are rated for 275VAC
and are used in mains (230VAC) circuits. In the USA, you can obtain these
from suppliers that have European
voltage X2-rated capacitors, such as
Digi-Key and Mouser.
The CDI circuit does work but it
does rely upon the original vehicle CDI
having a high-voltage generator coil.
Measuring small
AC signals
Have you ever published an article
on using an ICL7107 chip in an autoranging digital panel meter? I need it
to accurately measure 200mV AC. (G.
S., Delhi, India).
We have not published anything
on the ICL7107 but we did an article
continued on page 103
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
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102 Silicon Chip
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. . . continued from page 102
on the very similar ICL7106 in the
September 1992 issue. The only difference is that the 7106 is designed to
drive liquid crystal displays (LCDs)
while the 7107 drives 7-segment LED
displays. However, the published circuit is not auto-ranging and given that
you mainly want to measure 200mV,
that possibly is not important.
Measuring 200mV AC depends on
the nature of the signal. If the frequensiliconchip.com.au
cy is low enough (below about 100kHz)
and it will always be a sinewave or
square wave, then you can accurately
measure its amplitude using a precision full-wave average detector circuit.
This circuit can be found on page 10
of the LM3915 data sheet.
You will want to use a dual op amp
with as much bandwidth as possible
but note that you will need a split supply to run it, ie, positive and negative
rails. It is possible to do this without
a negative rail but then you need to
connect the non-inverting inputs of
the two op amps to half supply rather
than ground. Also note that if your
supply voltage is low, you will need
to use rail-to-rail op amps.
If the input is a sinewave, you will
also need to apply a correction for
the difference between the average
and RMS values of a sinewave to get
an accurate reading. The RMS value
of a sinewave is 11% higher than the
average so you will need to change the
feedback resistor value to compensate
for this. Changing R5 to 220kΩ instead
of 200kΩ will do the job.
If the input is not a sinewave or
continued on page 104
September 2013 103
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Icom Australia................................ 5
Instant PCBs.............................. 103
Jaycar .............................. IFC,49-56
Notes & Errata
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller, April-May 2012, December
2012, August 2013 (see also errata
June 2012):
(1) May 2012 – the thermostat
mounting hole position shown on
the drilling diagram (Fig.9) on page
70 of the May 2012 issue should be
moved so that it is 170mm from the
lefthand edge of the heatsink (not
130mm). Be sure to orientate TH2
correctly and keep its leads short
so that they cannot possibly contact
any high-voltage circuitry.
In addition, the mounting hole
for BR1 is incorrectly positioned. It
should be 45mm up from the bottom
edge of the heatsink (as indicated)
but is actually incorrectly positioned
40mm up from the heatsink edge.
(2) August 2013 - the article in this
issue recommended changing the
current-limiting resistor in series
with zener diode ZD1 to 470Ω (pre-
viously 1kΩ). This 470Ω resistor
should be rated at 0.5W (not 0.25W).
(3) Completely updated articles for
the 1.5kW Induction Motor Speed
Controller have been produced and
substituted for the original articles
on our website: www.siliconchip.
com.au. These articles incorporate
all modifications (including the
above errata) to the unit which now
uses a modified PCB (10105122) and
revised software for the microcontroller (1010512B.hex).
CLASSiC DAC, February-May 2013:
two capacitors were left off the DAC
output filter diagram (February 2013,
p25) and the circuit diagram (March
2013, p22). These 6.8nF capacitors
connect between the junction of
the two 1.5kΩ resistors and ground.
They were included on the PCB layout diagram (April 2013, p39) and
in the parts list (the PCB is correct).
Keith Rippon .............................. 103
KitStop.......................................... 13
LED Sales.................................. 103
Low Energy Developments........ 103
Master Instruments........................ 7
Microchip Technology................... 21
Mikroelektronika......................... IBC
Ocean Controls............................ 39
Quest Electronics....................... 103
Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD............ 85
RF Modules................................ 104
Rixen Pedals................................ 69
Rohde & Schwarz.......................... 3
Sesame Electronics................... 103
Silicon Chip Binders................ 78,87
Silicon Chip Bookshop................. 57
Silicon Chip Online Shop........ 96-97
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 103
square wave and you want an accurate measurement, then you need
an IC designed for making true RMS
measurements, such as the AD536,
AD736 or AD737.
As for auto-ranging, digital multimeters use custom ICs that do all this
work including the ADC, true RMS
calculations (if present), display driving and auto-ranging. While you could
do this yourself using discrete parts,
the easiest way will be to program a
microcontroller to do the auto-ranging.
First, you need a way to scale the
signal in a variable manner. There are
104 Silicon Chip
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a few ways to do this – you can use a
programmable gain amplifier (PGA),
you can build dividers with different
ratios (1:1, 10:1, 100:1) and then use an
analog switch/multiplexer (eg, 4051B)
to switch one of them at a time to the
input of your ADC/true RMS chip, or
you can have a single divider with a
variable ratio, based on a number of
resistors and Mosfets.
Once you have the ability to scale
the input to your ADC, it’s then just a
matter of programming the microcontroller to monitor the analog voltage
being fed to the ADC and switch up/
down in range depending on whether
it is above or below a certain voltage
SC
threshold.
siliconchip.com.au
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