This is only a preview of the February 2014 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 23 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "230V/10A Speed Controller For Universal Motors, Pt.1":
Items relevant to "Stereo Echo & Reverberation Unit":
Items relevant to "Build A State-of-the-Art Mini Entertainment Unit":
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FEBRUARY 2014
Super Smooth
PRINT POST APPROVED
PP255003/01272
9
$ 95* NZ $ 12 90
INC GST
INC GST
SPEED CONTROLLER
For Universal Motors
Full range, full control, full power
Thinking
inside the
(battery)
box!
Use a 3.2V LiFePO4
cell and place
your project inside
the battery box...
Neat!
Digital Reverb
& Echo Unit
For PA, recording and band use:
adjustable delay from 0-640ms
Modern Car Radios make superb
ENTERTAINMENT UNITS
High power, great tone, safe 12V
Convenient push-button memories
You can have USB & iPod ports
Some even have remote controls!
Here’s how to convert yours...
FEBRUARY EDITION
KIT PROJEC S
Online & in store
Prices valid until 23/02/2014
GPS Data Logger/Tracker Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Mag November 2013
Precisely records where your car or boat has travelled over time, which you can
playback on software such as Google Earth to map your journey. Kit supplied with silkscreened PCB, enclosure with label, pre-programmed PIC, GPS module, and electronic
components. The SMD components are already pre-soldered to the PCB to save you
the hassle.
• Records onto an SD card (available separately)
• Records point-of-interest at the touch of a button
• 12VDC powered
KC-5525
Automatic Headlights Kit for Cars
Ref: Silicon Chip October 2013
Like modern cars, this kit will
turn your car headlights on
automatically.
• Kit supplied with double
sided, solder-masked and
screen-printed PCB, diecast
case, buzzer and electronic
components. Cabling not included.
KC-5524
$
High Energy Ignition Kit for Cars
$
5995
ATTENTION KIT BUILDERS
Ref: Silicon Chip Mag Nov/Dec 2012
Use this kit to replace a failed ignition module.
Use with any ignition system that uses a single
coil with points, hall effect/lumenition, reluctor or
optical sensors (Crane and Piranha) and ECU.
Can’t find the kit you are looking for?
Try the Jaycar Kit Back Catalogue
Our central warehouse keeps a quantity
of older and slow-moving kits that can no
longer be held in
stores. A list of kits
can be found on
page 79 of our
catalogue or our
website. Just
search for “kit
back catalogue”.
• Kit supplied with silk-screened PCB, diecast
enclosure (111 x 60 x 30mm), pre-programmed
PIC and PCB mount components for four
trigger/pickup options
KC-5513
$
14900
4995
BE REWARDED for your love of electronics
As a way of saying thank you – everyday – weʼve put together a loyalty programme called Jaycar Rewards.
Itʼs for our regular customers who love DIY everything electronic!
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Register online today by visiting
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*Conditions apply, company stores only and only available for retail transactions in Australia
and New Zealand. See website for full terms and conditions.
USB Powered Kits
USB Power Monitor Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine Dec 2012
Plug this kit inline with a USB device to display the
current that is drawn at any given time. Displays
current, voltage or power. Kit supplied with double
sided, soldermasked and screen-printed PCB with
SMD components presoldered, LCD screen, and
components.
• PCB: 65 x 36mm
KC-5516
USB Port Voltage Checker Kit
Refer: SC Magazine July 2013
An easy way to test a USB port to see if it is dead,
faulty or incorrectly wired. Voltage is indicated
using three LEDs. Kit supplied with double sided,
solder masked and screen-printed PCB with SMDs
pre-soldered, clear heat shrink, USB connectors
and components for USB 2.0 & 3.0.
• PCB: 44 x 17mm
KC-5522
$
2995
Garbage and Recycling Reminder Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Mag Jan 2013
Easy to build kit that reminds you when to put which
bin out by. Up to four bins can be individually set to
weekly, fortnightly or alternate week or fortnight
cycles. Kit supplied with silk-screened PCB, black
enclosure (83 x 54 x 31mm), pre-programmed PIC,
battery and PCB mount components.
• PCB: 75 x 47mm
KC-5518
NOTE: Laptop not
included
$
59
95
2 Silicon Chip
To order call 1800 022 888
$
2995
siliconchip.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items.
Contents
Vol.27, No.2; February 2014
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
11 PICAXE in Space – Controlling A Miniature Satellite
Launched last November, $50SAT is not much bigger than a cigarette packet
and uses a PICAXE micro to control a radio motherboard – by Clive Seager
36 Rubidium Frequency Standards: How They’ve Shrunk
Now available on eBay for less than $150, rubidium-vapour frequency standards
(also known as ‘atomic clocks’) have shrunk considerably in size and cost since
they were first developed in the early 1960s – by Jim Rowe
74 Thinking Inside The Box . . . Or Cases On The Cheap
Looking for a cheap project case? Here’s a really neat idea – by Stan Swan
230V/10A Speed Controller For
Universal Motors; Pt.1 – Page 14.
78 Review: Triarchy USB Mini Spectrum Analyser
Yet another low-cost dongle: this time it’s a spectrum analyser and it offers
impressive performance from 1MHz right up to 5.35GHz – by Jim Rowe
89 High-Bay LED Lighting For Warehouses
Mercury discharge lamps are the standard for factories and warehouses but
now high-intensity LED lamps are a more efficient alternative – by Ross Tester
Pro jects To Build
14 230V/10A Speed Controller For Universal Motors, Pt.1
This microprocessor-controlled design provides very smooth operation from low
speed right up to maximum speed and has comprehensive overload protection
– by John Clarke
Stereo Echo & Reverberation
Unit – Page 28.
28 Stereo Echo & Reverberation Unit
Need echo and reverb effects for audio recording, PA and band applications?
This easy-to-build module will do it for you, with high performance and low
noise/distortion – by Nicholas Vinen
42 Build A State-Of-The-Art Mini Entertainment Unit
Transform a car radio and loudspeakers into a comprehensive entertainment
unit which has AM/FM stereo reception and can play music from CDs, flash
drive, MP3 player, iPhone, iPod, Android phone etc – by Leo Simpson
84 PortaPAL-D: A Powerful, Portable PA System, Pt.3
It’s now time to put together the cabinet which houses the electronics module
and the two speakers to make lots of beautiful music – by John Clarke
Build This State-Of-The-Art Mini
Entertainment Unit – Page 42.
Special Columns
57 Serviceman’s Log
Fixing smartphones & tablets can be tricky – by Dave Thompson
66 Circuit Notebook
(1) Audio Decibel Meter Uses Logarithmic Converter; (2) Making A Cheap
USB-Powered PCB Drill; (3) Minimum Speed Adjustment For Induction Motor
Speed Controller; (4) PICAXE-Based Garage Door Controller
82 Salvage It!
Harvesting a dead PC motherboard for parts – by Bruce Pierson
92 Vintage Radio
A 1925 Freed-Eisemann Neutrodyne Radio – by Kevin Poulter & Stan Snyders
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
siliconchip.com.au
4 Mailbag
26 Online Shop
PortaPAL-D PA System: Building
The Cabinet – Page 84.
65 Subscriptions
98 Ask Silicon Chip
103 Market Centre
February 2014 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Kevin Poulter
Stan Swan
Dave Thompson
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
E-cigarettes – a new way for
smokers to poison themselves
If you’re not a smoker or seldom have to put up
with “second-hand smoke” from nicotine addicts,
you may not be aware of the recent development of
“e-cigarettes”. While the name suggests these are an
electronically controlled cigarette, the reality is somewhat more prosaic in that they essentially contain a
battery and a small heating element to vaporise a liquid
mixture containing nicotine. Their supposed advantage
is that they do not involve the inhaling of tars and the other noxious combustion products of a conventional tobacco cigarette.
Now the reason I am writing about them at all is that while they were only
introduced a few years ago, their worldwide sales are already into the hundreds
of millions a year, so much so that the big tobacco companies such as Philip
Morris are contemplating getting into the market themselves. If tobacco companies see them as a worthwhile product that’s a fair indication that they’re
not! I must say that I loathe anything to do with tobacco and smoking and I
cannot see any advantage in people smoking e-cigarettes instead.
I have already seen enough of them being used to conclude that cigarette
smokers who change over to e-cigarettes are clearly deluded into thinking that
they are better off. There is no medical evidence, so far, to suggest that there is
any benefit and they apparently offer no advantage in helping people to stop
smoking.
In fact, tobacco smokers may smoke e-cigarettes even more, in the mistaken
belief that they are not as harmful. Worse, while those same smokers may previously have gone outdoors to “have a fag” they often now smoke e-cigarettes
indoors. So people who used to be exposed to “second-hand smoke” are now
being exposed to second-hand “vapour”, as it is euphemistically called. “Second-hand poison” would be a better description. Make no mistake; nicotine is
a deadly poison; more deadly than arsenic or strychnine, in fact.
And while it is bad enough for adults to be exposed to second-hand vapour
(nicotine) from an e-cigarette, I have seen them smoked when children are
close by. These days that should be regarded as reprehensible behaviour. More
teenagers are smoking e-cigarettes and apparently already young people in the
USA are being taken to hospital with nicotine poisoning.
Public authorities in the USA and Europe are already recognising the hazards of e-cigarettes and they are being banned from public spaces. I hope that
happens soon in Australia.
Some people who smoke e-cigarettes clearly see themselves as trend setters.
I see them as severely deluded. After all, taking LSD was once regarded as
trendy by celebrities; most of them are now dead. Just because a new product
has the prefix “e” does not make it good or desirable. “email” may be good;
e-cigarettes are not.
I can see only one advantage for e-cigarettes and that is possibly for people
suffering from mental illness who frequently are heavy smokers. This is because, particularly in the case of those suffering from schizophrenia, cigarettes
can moderate the symptoms. For these unfortunate people, e-cigarettes may
be an advantage in reducing nicotine stains on their fingers, tooth discolouration and decay and so on. If that turns out to be valid, it is still a pretty poor
recommendation.
If you know someone who has taken up e-cigarettes, there are two things
you can do. First tell them that they are acting stupidly and if they persist,
give them a wide berth.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
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February 2014 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Civil aircraft flight logs
should include video
I read the Publisher’s Letter concerning real-time flight monitoring of
civil aircraft flight-paths using ADS-B
in the August 2013 issue. I was rather
disappointed that he didn’t take the
opportunity to tackle the back-to-back
safety issue that piggy-backs onto this
subject, namely, “Why is it that in the
21st century we are still dependent
on time-consuming and risky search
and recovery operations at precarious crash sites to retrieve ‘Black-Box’
flight-data recorders after serious accidents?”
We then endure the uncertain forensic process of trying to glean usable
information from seriously damaged
fragments – sometimes unsuccessfully – when it can all be uploaded
via satellite-link to secure land-based
servers. The on-board recorders would
then merely serve as back-ups should
an accident occur in a satellite transmission coverage ‘black spot’.
However, once you get your feet
wet wading into this issue you are im-
Safety issues
with LPG injection
After reading the article regarding
the Arduino-controlled fuel injection for small motors by Nenad Stojadinovic in the January 2014 issue,
I felt compelled to send you a short
letter. I’ve been dealing with fuel
injection systems for well over 20
years, on both OEM and after-market
applications. The idea is great but I
noticed some glaring safety issues
that your readers should consider
if implementing this project for
themselves.
The use of PVC tubing when dealing with a flammable gas is risky.
PVC tubing will be affected by the
heat generated during the operation
of the engine and could possibly
burst or pop off, causing a significant
4 Silicon Chip
mediately confronted with a parallel,
related issue; that of the rather arrogant
attitude of various airline pilots associations who oppose any attempt to
introduce in-cockpit video systems to
provide imagery to sync with recorded
audio crew dialogue for post-crash
analysis. Why do the flying public
have to tolerate this elitist drivel from
this privileged group who seem to have
no scruples when it comes to holding
an essential element of aircraft safety
to ransom?
It is my view that in-cabin CCTV
should be made a mandatory term of
pilot employment. If any oppose then
it’s a simple matter of “the exit’s right
over there behind you!” Any concerns
over privacy are red herrings. The uploaded video would be held securely
by an independent body (perhaps
IATA?), ie, not the airlines and also
subject to tight regulatory control
defining authorised personnel access
and in what circumstances.
The great hypocritical irony under
the current regime is that if a crash
investigation nominates “pilot error”
as the cause of an accident it is not
unheard of for family, friends and
colleagues to come out in loud protest when, had in-cabin video footage
been available to the investigators, any
remaining doubts could have laid to
rest, not only in respect of the flight
crew but also the passengers’ families.
One immediate example that comes
to mind is SilkAir flight 185 which
crashed over Indonesia in 1997 where
it was suspected that the pilot deliberately flew the plane into the ground
to commit suicide.
So what’s the problem with incockpit video? To frame this debate
you need the right perspective, so
consider these examples: taxis and
long-haul trucks, buses, trains, hospital surgeries, military aircraft and other
vehicles . . . the list goes on. Who, in
this day and age, even gives it a second
thought unless the worst happens then
everyone (and especially the victims
and their loved ones) are grateful that
fire risk. Not to mention that after a
short time-frame, PVC then hardens
and could cause gas leakage without
proper clamps installed. Readers
would be aware that many small
engines use PVC tubing for fuel delivery and this goes quite hard after
a short time period.
Readers should ALWAYS use hoses rated for the intended pressure,
temperatures and fluids (or gasses),
with suitable mechanical clamping
devices fitted to the hoses and not
just rely on the barbed fittings to retain the tubing. Nenad does mention
to keep a fire extinguisher handy!
On a lighter note, a fuel injection
system using alpha-N (throttle angle
versus RPM) would be more appropriate for engines of this design.
Even with averaging of the MAP sen-
sor in the software, the lack of intake
manifold volume would most likely
cause erratic results as load rapidly
changes. Some temperature compensations should be implemented in
the code as intake gas density will
change significantly as the engine
warms up, causing erratic mixture
readings. Changes in cylinder head
(and oil) temperature directly affect
the desired air/fuel ratios.
Also note that LPG burns hotter
as there is no cooling effect from
evaporating fuel. If the mixture is
too lean, bad things happen quickly.
I often see injection systems without correctly configured correction
maps, and yes, it does make a huge
difference to the tune!
Stu Cornall, MIAME,
Pialba, Qld.
siliconchip.com.au
there is some understandable evidence
to answer their questions and remove
all doubts.
Andre Rousseau,
Auckland South, NZ.
Logistics revolution
coming?
I agree with the Publisher’s Letter in
the January 2014 issue, that deliveries
via octocopter may be possible but not
practical. However, I think you missed
a more important recent news article.
Google has just bought Boston Dynamics. Apparently that is its eighth robot
maker purchase (check out “Big Dog
robot” on YouTube).
Combine a robot arm with a driverless car and you have a package delivery system that can operate during
low demand for taxis and at all hours.
Be ready to replace your small letter
box with a very large “Package Box”.
It could mean bye-bye to the middle
man, with products direct from manufacturer to consumer!
And on the issue of car (or any)
manufacturing in Australia (Publisher’s Letter, December 2013), I bought
a 550g packet of nails recently. These
were the cheapest I could find at $5.50
for the packet. This equates to buying
a very simple steel product at $10,000
per tonne. The cost is in the same
order of magnitude as a car. The feed
for making nails is hot-rolled coil at
about $650 per tonne.
Yes, there are examples of savings
through importing but this is an instance of where the consumers don’t
benefit! I don’t think there any Australian nail makers left.
J. Williams,
Carrara, Qld.
Camry hybrid is
a pleasure to drive
May I add some comments to your
prognosis, in your December 2013
Publisher’s Letter, concerning hybrid
cars in particular and electric cars in
general? I think I quote you correctly
if I suggest the basis of your argument
is one of economics.
Parenthetically, before I discuss
your contentions, let me say that there
are a number of features of hybrid
propulsion that I find attractive besides the improved fuel consumption
and accordingly, I am on my second
siliconchip.com.au
Fuel economy indicator:
take a look at ScanGauge
I was interested to read a suggestion from E. J. in the Ask SILICON
CHIP pages of the December issue
regarding a fuel economy indicator.
Having now retired and spending
more time on the road, I was also
looking for something similar for my
2008 3-litre diesel Prado with which
I tow a 1950kg caravan.
After a bit of web searching I found
something that seemed to fit the bill,
called ScanGauge. It plugs into the
OBDII socket and utilises data from
the ECU to display a large range of
real-time data that can be customised to your requirements. I have
mine set to display litres/100km,
litres/100km average for the present
trip, battery voltage and transmisCamry Hybrid. The lack of mechanical vibration puts the car up with the
most expensive of limousines. Your
economic analysis is correct for my
situation.
My life ownership cost is more for
this car than for the non-hybrid Camry
alternative but to my mind, the nonhybrid Camry is an inferior alternative
which would not be my comparative
car of choice. To get the smoothness I
enjoy, I would have to buy a car with
a much higher initial price tag which
would swing the costings in favour of
this hybrid. However, let me go to my
main point.
The Toyota hybrids have a power
split arrangement, which eliminates
a great many expensive components.
I do not have a starter motor, alternator, automatic gearbox with the many
hundreds of finely manufactured and
expensive components nor a torque
converter. There are great many expensive mechanical parts which are
unnecessary in a power split hybrid
design.
It is true that there are a number of
power electronic components in a hybrid car which are currently not cheap,
like the IGBTs, but if history repeats
itself then the cost of the electronic
parts will continue to drop. Of course,
there is a battery which remains stubbornly expensive at present.
My contention is that if the volume
of production was similar to other
sion fluid temperature. This information is displayed in real time. By
pressing a button or two, you can
recall an enormous amount of information relating to trips, kilometres
left to tank empty etc.
You can also scan the ECU for
trouble codes. It took me 15 minutes
to fit to my vehicle and cost me $189.
(ScanGauge II). If you are a bit of a
lead foot you will soon see where
the fuel is going as the litres/100km
reading goes sky high!
It surprised me to see how much
additional fuel is used when you
are in cruise and the system tries to
maintain constant road speed. I no
longer use this function unless I am
on a long and fairly level highway.
Trevor Moore,
via email.
cars, then the price of the Toyota hybrids should be less, not more, than a
conventional car. I think the current
costs of the Toyota hybrids are what
they can get for the car, not an accurate
reflection of the manufacturing costs.
For high mileage usage, which is not
my situation, then the life ownership
costs favour the hybrid. When I was
in New York recently, the taxis there
are 100% Toyota. Their operators are
reporting a million miles before any
major mechanical repairs.
Most of the parts that wear out in a
normal car are not there to wear out
in this hybrid design. In the stop-start
traffic conditions of a place like New
York, the mechanical brake pads, for
example, never touch the disks. The
last hybrid I had still had the machining marks on the disk brakes when
I sold it. The air-conditioning compressor is a sealed unit – there is no
mechanical seal. I have no “fan belt”.
But not all hybrids are created
equal. The Honda Hybrid has everything a regular car has with the added
components of an electric motor,
power electronics and a battery. The
manufacturing cost must be more
because every part of the non-hybrid
car remains in that hybrid design plus
extra (expensive) components. Much
the same is true of the Peugeot hybrid
with its bizarre configuration.
My current model can run for some
kilometres under electric power only.
February 2014 5
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6 Silicon Chip
Mailbag: continued
There is a switch you press for electric only which locksout the IC engine. There is an after-market conversion in
the US where you can fit additional batteries to these cars
which you charge from a wall socket. They simply add
the power to the hybrid batteries just like the IC engine
might do. You press this electric only button which is there
already and the power transfer is regulated by a controller
that sits on the data bus and reads off the hybrid battery
status. So there are ways to be all-electric.
If you study the design of General Motors’ Volt, you
could be forgiven for thinking that a dysfunctional committee had designed it. I can see in my mind the whiteboard
with people putting red spots after the features they want
and the circle of people all talking at once. If you focus
on most of the designs, then I am sure your crystal ball is
right on the money. However, letting crook designs fall by
the wayside is part of the Darwinian principle but they
do not all have to go the way of the dodo.
My contention is that, designed properly, like the
Toyota cars are and some of the American Ford hybrid
cars are, using the power split arrangement and genuinely
trying to reduce manufacturing costs unlike Honda and
Peugeot and others, then I think the initial purchase price
prospects look good for hybrid cars. The smoothness of
a hybrid design along with the reduced fuel costs are but
an added bonus.
Dr Kenneth Moxham,
Urrbrae, SA.
LED power ratings are over-stated
I can confirm what C. C. (Ask SILICON CHIP, January 2014)
complained about with respect to LEDs. Every, and I mean
11/14/12 7:15 PM
every, LED light I bought, whether it was a LED element
that ran off DC or a complete LED light that plugged into
the mains, measured as using not much more than half
the power it was advertised to be rated at.
That overwhelming evidence initially convinced me
my cheap power meter was inaccurate, at least at low
wattages. So needing to be sure, because I didn’t want
a row of LED lights I was installing to overload a power
supply, I bought a more expensive professional quality
power meter. It read almost exactly the same.
Overstating the output and, to make that output seem
credible in lumens/watt, overstating the power consumption, is endemic and pervasive in the LED industry. A
large part of the power saving you get from them comes
from the fact that you install the lumen and wattage you
need, but only get a bit more than half of it. Usually that’s
enough, but it really is a nuisance though when you do
need to get a certain illumination level for a workplace
and you don’t get the expected result.
An example is putting in a dual fluoro fitting and two
1650 lumen 18W LED tubes to get the light output of a
single 3200 lumen 36W fluorescent tube. The light output
per watt of an LED may beat the hell out of an incandescent and be noticeably better than a compact fluoro but
isn’t actually much better than a fluoro tube. LEDs just
siliconchip.com.au
don’t need ballasts or starters, come on instantly and last
a number of times longer.
Gordon Drennan,
Burton, SA.
Legislate for commonality of
car parts and sub-assemblies
I agree and disagree with the Publisher’s Letter in the
December 2014 issue. Firstly, we (the taxpayer/Government) can’t keep subsidising the local car industry forever.
On the other hand, we don’t (well I don’t) want Australia
to end up as a “primitive cargo cult” building effigies on
the coast to attract container ships.
The problem as I see it (apart from unions and excessive pay) is the car industry doesn’t co-operate. They
have been fooled by marketing men into “differentiating
their product” (though this is mainly cosmetic) and (more
insidiously) by accountants and CEOs into “locking out
competition” through non-interchangeable parts.
The commonwealth government, as part of any temporary assistance, should legislate that parts and subassemblies should fit together across models (including
across manufacturers). If they don’t, then they get a penalty
(or less subsidy) and non-standardised imports are just
banned (or very heavily taxed).
A probable adverse side effect of losing our car industry is that spare parts and maintenance/repairs will be a
bigger nightmare (and costlier) than it is now, as imports
will be even more varied.
J. Williams,
Carrara, Qld.
Fuel injection article
is appreciated
I’d like to say ‘hat’s off’ to Nenad Stojadinivic for his
great article about DIY fuel injection. It is one of the best
articles I’ve seen in SILICON CHIP for some time; a perfect
combination of hardware, software, dodgy plumbing, ingenuity and of course flammable gasses and sparks. Perfect!
It reminds me of our Kiwi friends and the jet powered
beer cooler project: http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
index.html
Let’s have more of these sorts of projects please!
Trevor Luker,
via email.
Ceramic cartridges need
a high input impedance
I wish to comment on the query from J. P. on page
101 of the Ask SILICON CHIP pages in the December 2013
edition. Being a serviceman since 1955, I believe that a
good ceramic cartridge should work OK into line inputs.
In setting up a ceramic cartridge, you need to check the
following points. First, closely look at the shaft of the
stylus and be sure it is sitting centrally in the activating
block. Very gently, try moving the stylus tip sideways. If
it is solid, the cartridge is faulty. Note that a lot of “new”
cartridges are like this.
To improve bass response we used to fit a “loading”
resistor as recommended by the makers. We fitted a 470kΩ
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 7
Mailbag: continued
More uses for
SDR dongles
SILICON CHIP has had some good
stuff on SDR projects. How about
using SDR dongle to receive and
decode pager signals? Most people
think that pagers are dead but they
are still used for mission critical oneway comms (we all know of SMS
messages that arrive a week late).
I am an RFS volunteer and the
NSW RFS makes extensive use of
pagers to summon volunteers to
respond to an incident. Reliability
and cost are two of the reasons for
using pagers. However, I happen to
work just outside the range of the
nearest VHF pager transmitter, hence
can’t receive pages and have to rely
on one of the members calling me
during working hours.
It would be great if I could use a
TV dongle and your SDR software to
grab and decode the page and then
send it as a text to me. The text bit
I can organise though a commercial
SMS provider. The local system
resistor in most cases. If the volume
was then inadequate we reduced the
resistor to 270kΩ. The loading resistor
will reduce the treble but it reduced
record scratch. This can be improved
by fitting a 1000pF capacitor in parallel
with the resistor.
David Littlely,
Yokine, WA.
Comment: loading the cartridge with a
470kΩ resistor and shunting it with a
1nF capacitor may have been standard
practice in the days of valve amplifiers
but it would not give good results with
the line inputs of solid state equipment
which typically have an input impedance of no more than 50kΩ or 100kΩ,
at best. In those cases, adding a 470kΩ
resistor and capacitor would have
negligible effect on the output signal.
So these days, the only practical approach to obtaining the best
sound from ceramic cartridges (or
piezoelectric transducers in the case
of musical instruments) is to use a
separate preamplifier which provides
an input impedance of 5MΩ or more.
The load impedance needs to be this
8 Silicon Chip
transmits on 148.5875MHz and I
think they use that in many places
in New South Wales.
www.discriminator.nl/pdw/index-en.html has done some work
on decoding pager signals. I believe
that POSIG 512 baud is common to
all NSW RFS pagers and CAPCODES
are used for the individual pagers.
The user would need to find their
own capcodes.
I was thinking that you could
avoid using an external audio line
or modifying a scanner and feed the
signal from the SDR direct into PDW;
it may be more reliable.
Regarding the article on using
SDR for DMR digital P25 reception
in the December 2013 issue, most
of the P25 traffic is unencrypted
in rural areas. Certainly the police
and RFS are unencrypted. Some
areas use trunking but we use PMR
in the Southern Tablelands for the
RFS with GRN trunking as backup.
Neville McMartin,
Yass NSW.
high because piezoelectric transducers are essentially a voltage source
in series with a capacitor, typically
around 500pF.
However, anyone wanting the best
sound quality from vinyl records
would be well advised to use a
turntable fitted with a high-quality
magnetic cartridge and then use a
preamplifier which gives the correct RIAA/IEC equalisation. The
magnetic cartridge will give much
better signal quality and because it
uses a lower tracking force, causes
much less long-term wear and deterioration the records themselves.
Use a brass cleaning pad
for soldering iron tips
I thought I would pass on some useful information about electronic temperature controlled soldering irons. For
many years, I’ve used one of these soldering irons to do electronic projects
of one kind or another. Some of them
came with a pad that was made damp
so one could clean the tip of the iron
before using it once more. Eventually
I purchased another iron with similar
tips but it came with a dry brass pad on
which to clean the tip. After a while,
I found that my iron tips were lasting
many times longer than if they were
cleaned with a damp pad. I wondered
why this was so.
After some research, I found out that
if you put your iron tip onto a damp
pad, the temperature of the tip would
suddenly drop thus causing many
small cracks to appear on the surface.
Wearing out of the tip was much faster
with the damp pads. Since a single tip
costs between $10.00 to $12.00, the
savings have been quite considerable.
In addition to this the brass pad keeps
the tip far cleaner than the damp pad.
Glen King,
via email.
Shortest route
around Australia
The discussion on the shortest
direction to travel around Australia
is probably as a result of confusion
over a well-known fact amongst caravan travellers. Due to the presence of
the Central Australian High Pressure
System, the prevailing winds, on average, travel anti-clockwise around the
Australian continent. Looking at a map
showing the direction of sand ridges
around the continent confirms this.
Thus with a tail wind, vehicle
speeds are easier to maintain, fuel
efficiency is significantly improved
and a more relaxing trip is the result.
This is most noticeable at the greater
latitudes when crossing from Perth
to Melbourne. Anti-clockwise is the
way to go.
Bob Backway,
Belgrave Heights, Vic.
Another view on
power generation
I read with interest a letter from
Paul Miskelly in the Mailbag pages of
the December 2013 issue. In the real
world though, money is the common
denominator, with (under privatisation) the power companies striving to
purchase/generate the cheapest power
possible and get the best return from
customers, so as to inflate their profits.
This has resulted, as the price has
risen, in a reduction of the power
consumed and hence the generation
capacity needed. People switch off/
siliconchip.com.au
Raspberry Pi
software problems
I have been having a go at the
Raspberry Pi XBMC idea and have
run into quite a serious difficulty.
The editor of our local magazine
“The Shed” had a similar article
and also has run into problems with
software updates causing improper
operation or making some functions
cease to work.
As far as I can gather, a lot is due
to the “open ended” form of the
Raspberry Pi’s software. We know
that Linux comes on a plethora of
versions and these, together with the
multimedia software itself, seem to
give rise to a whole lot of problems.
The problem seems to be that one has
to get a system going, then, quickly,
use more efficient ways to save money.
Australia has a unique Grid Authority
system, whereby the authority holds
an auction every few minutes, with the
successful tenderer supplying the grid
for that period with a given amount of
power. This results in the generators
being divided into two groups.
The first of these are base load, eg,
coal-fired power stations. Starting a
coal-fired boiler from cold takes between eight and 24 hours before steam
is available. Once running, the most efficient operation is continuous for long
periods of time at a constant load. The
power output generated is dependent
on the amount of steam supplied to
the turbine and hence can vary from
almost nothing to full output.
The generator can be switched off
grid and maintained in idle run mode
but this necessitates either exhausting
surplus steam to atmosphere (noisy,
inefficient) or slowing the amount of
steam generated by burning less fuel;
not easily or quickly done. Resumption can be in the order of minutes.
A complete shut-down takes up to
24 hours.
So, these generators quote for base
load, to their maximum capacity, at a
rate of about six cents per kilowatthour and run their plants at this rate
for days or weeks at a time, as this is
the most profitable. Victoria has a capacity, at full load, of about 6500 MW,
spread over three companies with 11
generators of between 200 and 800MW
siliconchip.com.au
turn OFF any automatic upgrades.
You can’t backtrack as in Windows!
What would be interesting is some
feedback on other readers’ experiences with this idea. This would
have to be very specific about the
versions of the software packages
used in their working version.
When I looked up the entries devoted to this system I came across literally dozens of versions and every
bit of advice was “version specific”
to a very high degree. So much so
that what at first appeared to be a lot
of help, rapidly evaporated.
This even applied to making the
system recognise an 8GB memory
stick!
Clifford Wright,
Helensville, NZ.
capacity each. Currently, Energy Australia has reduced its capacity by 25%,
probably in a bid to force up the base
load price it receives. This system can
supply any load required but makes
the most money when run as base load
generation, running at full capacity.
The secondary generator group
comprises wind and other renewables. Wind turbines can be turned on
or off in a matter of minutes, simply
by rotating the turbine head into or
out of the wind direction. The output
is dependent on the wind, needing a
speed of about 3m/sec for generation
to start. Most wind farms are in areas
with constant wind speeds of 6m/s
or more.
Output increases with wind speed
but can be adjusted by varying the
blade angle as required. Wind farms
are located in areas with high and
constant wind speeds. They are available for an average of more than 90%
of the time, so can be used for base
load power. Norway and Portugal do
just this, having up to 90% of their
power supplied by wind. The wind
systems being installed in England’s
North Sea are for base load generation
(eliminating coal-fired stations!) The
effect of weather patterns has a very
small effect on capacity, as the wind
very rarely stops completely.
In Australia, with the geographical
diversity and interconnection, adequate power is always available to the
grid to cover any local shortfalls; hence
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February 2014 9
Mailbag: continued
PIC projects
& firmware
Thank you for publishing such a
good general electronics magazine.
I very much enjoy your PIC microcontroller based projects but I have
noticed over the years that the format
of the accompanying article for each
of the PIC projects has not changed
from when the projects were nonmicrocontroller based.
Many of the PIC microcontroller
projects have more than 90% functionality contained within the firmware. The PIC project articles seem
to avoid discussing the firmware
design used, principles of operation
no backup generators are needed.
The average generator puts out about
2MW over most of its operating time.
Note that Victoria has the largest wind
farm in the southern hemisphere, and
South Australia is approaching 40%
of its consumption from wind power.
There is no backup generation of comparable capacity, as it is not required
for this purpose.
As the aim is to maximise profits,
the wind generators do not bid for the
base market but rather wait until more
power is required before entering the
and perhaps novel ways of using
the internal functions of the PIC
concerned. In many cases the project commentary is imbalanced; the
hardware design can be so simple
that it really doesn’t deserve the
commentary that I often see written,
where as discussion of the firmware
can be completely omitted in some
cases.
What would be nice would be a
deeper discussion on the firmware
design, for example what registers
are used for what, I/O and timing
functions, the general flow of the
program, special precautions and
perhaps discussion on any unusual
market. With the ability to switch on
or off as required, profitable operation
will occur, even when only operating
for 10% of the time. As peak power can
reach figures like $10,000 per MWh,
it pays to wait in the bidding process.
When load is low, the coal stations
can easily carry the load, reducing
their output if required. The wind
system is turned off. As the load
increases, the wind system is turned
on for short periods. As the load rises
further, the wind system is turned on
for longer and longer periods, until
use of the in-built functions of the
PIC etc; and last of all tips and advice
on modifying the firmware – where
any come to mind by the author.
A flow chart of the code and key
register use for specific purposes
would also be much appreciated.
In some cases, the ASM listings are
lacking useful explanation of the
code operation.
I realise that space in the magazine
is at a premium given the need for
advertising but as a regular reader I
would very much appreciate more
in-depth articles on the assembly or
C code and would happily forgive
you for adding more pages of advertising to cover the cost.
Alex McLeod,
via email.
finally, at peak load; the wind system
is fully turned on.
Operating statistics tell us nothing
about operational availability but reflect only the financial returns to the
generators and the way the system operates to achieve this. Hydro systems
operate in the same manner but as they
purchase power for pumping (at low
cost), need to operate more frequently
so as to supply power (at higher cost)
and hence make a profit.
David Tuck,
SC
Yallourn North, Vic.
Are Your S ILICON C HIP Issues
Getting Dog-Eared?
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Can you quickly find a particular issue that you need
to refer to?
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or call (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number
or mail the order form in this issue. *See website for overseas prices.
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
PICAXE IN
SPACE
by Clive Seager
At 07:10 UTC on November 21st 2013 Kosmotras successfully launched
a Dnepr rocket from Dombarovsky Air Base (Russia), carrying the
United Arab Emirates’ DubaiSat-2 and 31 other satellites. One of these
was not much bigger than a cigarette packet and cost less than $200!
A
part from the fact that this mission set a new record for the most payloads (32) carried into orbit
by a single rocket, one of those satellites, Unisat-5,
itself carried internally a number of smaller sub-satellites
including four CubeSats and the very first four PocketQube
satellites. These were launched almost immediately after
Unisat-5 itself was deployed.
One of these satellites was controlled by a PICAXE microcontroller.
PocketQube is a new class of miniaturised satellites developed by Professor Bob Twiggs, a professor at Morehead
State University, Kentucky, USA, who, together with Professor Jordi Puig-Suari designed the larger CubeSat class.
PocketQubes use a ‘unit’ size one eighth the size of the
previous CubeSat standard – with a ‘1-unit’ length now
siliconchip.com.au
measuring just 50mm.
‘$50SAT’ as it is affectionately referred to by its developers (its official designation is Eagle 2) is a 1.5 unit, 210g,
PocketQube satellite controlled by a PICAXE-40X2 microcontroller. $50SAT has been an international collaborative
education project between Professor Bob Twiggs and three
radio amateurs, Howie DeFelice, AB2S, Michael Kirkhart,
KD8QBA, and Stuart Robinson, GW7HPW.
$50SAT was deployed successfully and is now fully
operational, orbiting Earth at around 7.5km/s at a distance
of around 600km.
At the time of writing it is not known if it will be large
enough to be accurately tracked by Norad by itself but it
can still be tracked fairly reliably using the larger ‘Unisat-5’
it was launched from.
February 2014 11
Both sides of the PICAXE
and radio motherboard
PCB. That’s not much to
control a spacecraft, is it!
The primary purpose of $50SAT was to create a ‘proof
of concept’ that could be used as a cost effective platform
for engineering and science students to use for developing
real-world skills.
The PocketQube form factor has no precision mechanical
parts and can be built in a school workshop from locallyobtained 1.5mm sheet aluminium. Professor Twiggs was
very keen to support the use of the PICAXE microcontroller
as it is very low cost and can be simply programmed in
BASIC, without the need for C or assembler programming
skills, making it ideal for high school students.
$50SAT is comprised of a sheet aluminium cube covered
in solar cells. Internally it is quite bare, just two main 40mm
x 40mm circuit boards stacked above the battery. The first
is the processor/radio board which contains the PICAXE
40X2 microcontroller programmed in PICAXE BASIC,
the Hope RFM22B single chip radio transceiver and some
peripheral devices such as a DS18B20 temperature sensor.
The second board is the power control and monitor board.
This board contains four maximum power point controllers,
one for each solar array on each side of the spacecraft as
well as current monitors for the battery and summed solar
power. The battery is an ‘off the shelf’ Klic-7002 lithium
ion digital camera battery, charged by the solar panels to
a maximum of 3900mV.
The $50 nickname was
the original budget the
development team thought
would be the hardware cost.
Unfortunately the cost of
the high tech triple junction
solar cells blew that budget
in one hit but you could
still build one yourself for
around US$200.00
All the circuits, PCB artwork and PICAXE BASIC
programs are available on
the designer’s website.
ute, as well as a fast morse beacon and FSK RTTY. All transmissions from and to $50SAT are at the same frequency,
437.505MHz (but allow up to ±10kHz of Doppler shift).
The FSK RTTY sent out by $50SAT is best detected using
a ‘Funcube’ USB dongle with a omni-directional antenna
but the slow morse should easily be heard using standard
amateur radio receivers and has even been heard on lowcost UHF hand-helds.
The initial communications requirements at design
stage were to:
1. Transmit a slow Morse call sign identity.
2. Provide remote command uplink to turn radio transmissions off (a requirement of all satellites).
3. Operate at a programmable frequency in the 70cm
amateur radio band.
4. Include a method of getting data back on solar panel
and battery performance.
Radio on board
The small size of the satellite made it difficult to find a
ready-built radio transceiver for communications. There
are special radio modems designed for use in CubeSats but
they are either not low enough in cost or not small enough
for use in the smaller 50mm PocketQube. Therefore the
off-the-shelf US$5 Hope RFM22B FSK data transceiver was
selected. The RFM22B is based on the Silicon Labs Si4432
device and has a mere 100mW transit power. If
you look carefully at the photos you will see
Listen in on 70cm
$50SAT operates in the
70cm amateur radio band
and transmits a slow morse
beacon around once a min12 Silicon Chip
So you want to build a satellite? Go right ahead:
one of the aims of the project was to provide a
model for a low-cost satellite which was within
the capabilities of high school students.
siliconchip.com.au
QubeSats
Launchers
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FORGET HALOGEN GLOBE REPLACEMENTS
THIS IS THE BETTER WAY!
4" & 6"
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Unisat 5 with PocketQube
launchers.
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HIP
SILICON C
3
Feb 201
PocketQube
Launchers
what that folding dipole antenna is built from – yes, it really
is a tape measure purchased from the local hardware store!
The ‘FM’ morse is not true FM as such but is generated
by the PICAXE microcontroller switching the RFM22
transceiver between two different carriers.
The data transmitted includes battery state, idle/receive/
transmit currents, solar charge current and voltage and well
as temperature (measured by a common DS18B20 sensor).
Summary
At the date of writing (late November 2013) the designers are delighted with the performance of the satellite. It
is working exactly as designed and is living proof that a
working satellite really can be built on a shoestring budget
by students using ‘off the shelf’ components such as PICAXE
microcontrollers and radio transceivers.
Now who do you know who is launching a rocket with
room for a (admittedly tiny) extra payload?
Congratulations to all those involved. The sky is no longer
the limit for back shed tinkerers – space has no limits! SC
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$50SAT in its
transportation/launch tray. This also
gives a good idea of its tiny size!
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 13
Super Smooth, FullSpeed Controller for
by
John Clarke
T
his 10A electronic speed
controller provides an impressively smooth running universal motor that can be adjusted from very slow
up to full speed. Using the feedback
control, the motor can be set to maintain its speed even under load.
A similar 230VAC 10A Full-Wave
Brush Motor Speed Controller was
published in May 2009. This controller worked well but this latest controller has additional features which give
a significant improvement over the
earlier version.
This includes improvements to the
motor control along with added protection to the controller circuitry such
as cycle-by-cycle over-current limiting
and soft starting.
We need to mention here that this
controller is not suitable for use with
induction motors, such as are typically used with compressors, bench
grinders, lathes and pumps. For more
information see the panel entitled:
What motors can be controlled?
Why is it so good?
So why is this controller so good at
driving brush-type motors, particularly at slow running speeds and for
full speed operation?
It is all to do with the type of voltage waveform that is use to provide
speed control.
Typically, brush motor speed controllers use a simple phase-control
circuit. We published such a phasecontroller for brush motors in the
February 2009 issue.
Shortcomings of phase control are
immediately apparent when using this
design. One is that the maximum speed
from the motor when under full speed
control adjustment is significantly reduced – up to 25% or more – compared
to running directly from the mains.
Why build this when you can buy a power tool with inbuilt controller?
Many hand power tools these days have inbuilt (trigger or dial) speed controllers. And many cost less than this stand-alone
controller kit. So why would you build this one?
Quite simply, this is better! That’s no idle boast – everyone who has tried this out has been very pleasantly surprised. You won’t
believe how smooth the control is, nor how much “grunt” you get at low speed. Or any of the other features this new 230V 10A
Universal Motor Speed Controller offers! It’s not just better than any previous controller – it’s significantly better . . .
Or perhaps you have an existing favourite power tool that doesn’t have speed control: build this and enjoy new versatility!
14 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
-range, 10A/230V
Universal Motors
Most mains motor speed controllers aren’t very good! They often have
very poor low-speed control or won’t allow control right up to the
motor’s maximum speed. Or both! Here’s one that is exceptional: a
microcontroller-powered full wave circuit that overcomes both these
problems and gives extremely smooth control as well. It’s ideal for use
with electric drills, lawn edgers, circular saws, routers or any other
appliance with universal (ie brush-type) motors, rated up to 10A.
So for an electric drill that normally
runs at say 3000 RPM, the maximum
speed might be reduced to around
2200 RPM. This is inevitable with
a controller circuit that effectively
half-wave rectifies the 230VAC mains
waveform to give a maximum output
voltage of around 162V RMS.
The second drawback of the February 2009 phase control design has to
do with low speed control. While the
circuit does allow your drill or other
appliance to run at quite low speeds,
the result is that there isn’t much
torque available and the speed regulation is poor.
This means that if you’re operating the drill at a low speed and you
put a reasonable load on it, its speed
will drop right away or it may stall
completely.
Worse still, the motor will tend to
‘cog’. Cogging is caused by erratic
firing of the main switching device
(a TRIAC) within the Drill Speed
Controller, so that the motor receives
intermittent bursts of power.
An electric motor that is cogging
badly is virtually useless and the
only cure is to increase the speed setting, defeating the purpose of a speed
controller if you want to operate at
low speed.
What’s the alternative?
Both of these drawbacks are basically eliminated with the new SILICON
siliconchip.com.au
CHIP Motor Speed Controller.
ishing tools and even electric whipper
The design does not use phasesnippers – they’re less likely to snap
control circuitry but uses switch-mode
their lines when slowed down.
power supply techniques to produce
Phase control
an outstanding controller for all types
of universal brush motors. (Virtually
Before we continue, we should exall mains-powered [handheld] power
plain what we mean by phase control
tools and many appliances use uniso we can illustrate the benefits of this
versal motors. These are series wound
new design.
motors with brushes.)
As you know, the mains (AC) voltage
It has very low speed control with
closely follows a sine wave. It starts
excellent maintenance of speed under
at zero, rises to a peak, falls back to
load. Additionally, it will run the mozero, then does the same thing in the
tor over its full speed range, even at
opposite direction. This repeats at 50
full speed if required.
times each second (50Hz).
Most power tools will do a better job
A motor connected to the mains
if they have a speed
control. For example,
electric drills should
b e s l o w e d d o w n • Extremely sm
ooth and precise motor sp
when using larger •
eed control
Speed can be controlled
from zero to maximum
drill bits as they make
• Superb speed regulatio
a cleaner cut.
n under load
Similarly, it is use- • Adjustable speed regula
tion with feedback control
ful to be able to slow • Excellent
low-speed motor operatio
n
down routers, jig• 2300W (10A) rating
saws and even circular saws when cut- • Cycle-by-cycle current overloa
d protection
ting some materials, • Over-current limitin
g
particularly plastics • Soft
starting
(many plastics actu•
NT
C
Thermistor for initial surge
ally melt and then
current limiting
meld if the speed is • Fused protection
too high).
• Rugged case with interf
erence suppression includ
The same comed
• For 230VAC brush (un
ments apply to
iversal) motors
sanding and pol-
Features
February 2014 15
These waveforms illustrate the operation of a typical phase-controlled SCR
when driving a typical electric drill. In Fig.1 (above) the SCR is triggered early
in the positive half-cycle, so the motor voltage is 138V RMS and it runs at a
relatively high speed. The motor can never run at maximum speed for another
reason: half of the energy is unavailable because only one half of the cycle
is used. (Even if the whole half cycle could be fed to the motor, it could only
ever be about 162V RMS). Also notice that there is considerable hash at the
beginning of each positive half-cycle, caused by interaction between the drill’s
commutator and the Triac.
Compare this with Fig.2 (below) where SCR is triggered much later in the halfcycle, meaning less power is available to the motor – the voltage being fed to
the motor here is just 45V RMS. While it does run much slower – the aim of the
exercise, of course – it suffers from low torque and is also liable to “cog”. Note
the frequency error in both these screen grabs, which is caused by hash on the
waveform and the fact that the SCR triggering is erratic.
16 Silicon Chip
makes full use of the energy from each
cycle so that it runs at its maximum
speed. But if we were only to supply
a portion of the waveform, with less
energy available to power it, the motor
would not run so fast.
By varying the time during each
half cycle when power is applied, you
would have a variable speed control.
This then is the basis of phase
control: feed power very early in the
cycle and it runs fast; delay power
until much later in the cycle and it
runs slowly.
The term ‘phase control’ comes
about because the timing of the trigger
pulses is varied with respect to the
phase of the mains sine wave. Phase
control has in the past been the basis
for incandescent lamp dimmers and
even heater controls.
By the way, phase control is not
generally suitable for fluorescent and
compact fluorescent lamps.
The oscilloscope waveform of Fig.1
shows the chopped waveform from
a phase-controlled circuit when a
motor is driven at a fast speed. Fig. 2
shows the waveform from the phasecontrolled speed control at a lower
setting. At the low setting the motor
has 45V RMS applied, while at the
higher setting, the motor has 138V
RMS applied to it
These examples show only the
positive half of the mains waveform
being used, as is the normal case
with a phase-controlled circuit. This
automatically limits the amount of
energy which can be delivered to the
motor – the power available from the
negative waveform cycles is not used.
It means that in a half-wave phasecontrol circuit, the range of control is
limited to a relatively small range of
speeds.
For the motor to run at full speed,
it would need to be fed with both the
positive and negative half-cycles of
the 50Hz mains waveform.
Normally this is not possible with a
phase-control circuit that uses an SCR
(Silicon Controlled Rectifier), which
is, effectively, a controlled diode that
only conducts in one direction.
While a TRIAC could be used to
switch the full 50Hz mains for phase
control (ie, both positive and negativegoing half cycles), it is difficult to
achieve and still incorporate constant
speed control under load without a
complex circuit.
Additionally, another big problem
siliconchip.com.au
This series of scope screen grabs, taken with the controller driving a typical
handyman electric saw, show the voltage wave-forms applied to the motor
at progressively higher speed settings. Fig.3 (above) is the lowest setting with
very short pulses from the IGBT delivering just 77.4V RMS to the motor.
The yellow trace shows the output from IC1 (as applied to the IGBT driver),
while the green trace is the output from that driver. The top (blue) trace
shows the voltage actually applied to the motor via the GPO. You can see
that it follows the follows the full-wave-rectified mains “outline” but the
pulses themselves are very narrow.
Fig.4 shows a significantly higher speed setting (114V RMS) with the IGBT
being switched on with longer pulses. The yellow and green traces remain
constant in their amplitude but of course the pulses are wider, therefore
delivering more energy. By the way, the spikes on the leading edges of
the motor waveform (blue trace) mainly appear to be an artefact of the
measurement method (ie, they are not actually present!).
18 Silicon Chip
with conventional phase-controlled
circuits is that the trigger pulse applied
to the TRIAC or SCR is very short.
If this corresponds with the instant
when the brushes hit an open circuit
portion of the commutator, no current
will flow and the motor will miss
out on a whole cycle of the mains
waveform.
Similarly, even if the TRIAC or SCR
has been correctly triggered on, the
SCR or TRIAC may switch off again
as current falls to zero when a brush
passes an open circuit on the commutator.
This problem is more critical at
low speed settings and is one of the
reasons for the ‘cogging’ behaviour
referred to earlier.
Incidentally, the sparks you see
when you look into a universal (brush
type) motor are mostly caused by
brushes passing over the open circuit
section of the commutator.
Typically, a power drill might have
a dozen or more open circuit sections
on the commutator. These open circuit
sections or gaps in the commutator
are necessary to keep motor windings
separate.
Speed regulation
Most phase-controlled SCR or
TRIAC speed control circuits claim
to include a form of feedback that is
designed to maintain the speed of the
motor under load.
They rely upon the fact that a motor can be used as a generator when
it is spinning with no power applied.
When the motor is loaded and the
motor speed slows, the back-EMF
(electromotive force) produced by the
motor drops and the circuit compensates by triggering the SCR earlier in
the mains cycle. This earlier triggering
helps to drive the motor at the original
speed.
In practice, however, the back-EMF
generated by most series motors when
the SCR or TRIAC is not conducting is
either very low or non-existent. This
is due in part because there is no field
current and the generation of voltage is
only due to remanent magnetism in the
motor core. If there is any back-EMF
produced, it is too late after the end of
each half-cycle to have a worthwhile
effect on the circuit triggering in the
next half-cycle.
So while phase control is simple
and cheap, it is not an ideal method
for controlling motor speed. Instead
siliconchip.com.au
we use a different method as follows:
Pulse-width modulation
The new Silicon Chip speed control
circuit uses Pulse Width Modulation
(PWM) and a different feedback method for speed regulation that effectively
solves the above problems associated
with phase control. Fig.3 to Fig.6 show
the voltage waveforms applied to the
motor at progressively higher settings
from very low to full speed.
What happens is that we rectify the
mains voltage and then chop it up at
a switching rate of about 980Hz using
a high voltage IGBT (Insulated Gate
Bipolar Transistor). For the lowest
speed setting (Fig.3), the pulses are
very narrow and for the higher speed
settings the pulses applied to the motor
are progressively wider.
There are between 9 and 10 pulses
during each half cycle, so the motor
receives a more continuous stream of
current compared to when driven via
phase control. As a result, the motor
operates very smoothly over the whole
of its speed range.
For speed regulation, the circuit
does not rely upon the back-EMF from
the motor. Instead, it monitors the
current through the motor and adjusts
the pulse width to maintain the motor speed. When a motor is idling, it
draws a certain amount of current to
keep itself running. When the motor is
loaded, the motor speed drops and the
current drawn by the motor increases.
The motor controller senses this and
then compensates for this speed drop
by widening the pulse width to maintain motor speed.
Similarly, Fig.5 shows an even higher speed setting – very close to 50% duty
cycle – with now 170V RMS being delivered to the motor by the IGBT. Motor
speed would already be higher than that capable of a phase-controlled circuit
and shows how good this circuit is.
Incidentally, all the waveforms displayed in this series of figures have been
measured using high voltage differential probes on the oscilloscope. Do not
attempt to make any of the measurements using conventional probes and an
isolating transformer – as there is a risk that you will blow the IGBT, the fast
recovery diode, D1 and the gate driver chip, IC3. We write this from bitter
experience!
Block diagram
Fig.7 shows the basic circuit arrangement. The 230VAC input waveform is fed through a filter and fullwave rectified.
An NTC thermistor in series between the full-wave rectified supply
and the motor limits the initial surge
current drawn by the motor. The thermistor has a relatively high resistance
when cold; as it heats up, the resistance drops allowing full power to be
applied to the motor when necessary.
The NTC thermistor is ideal for use
with heavy current appliances to reduce the start up current.
The resulting positive-polarity
waveform is fed to one side of the
motor. The other motor terminal is
switched on and off via IGBT Q1.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: here the IGBT is virtually full-on delivering maximum voltage to the
motor. The drive pulses are virtually at 100% so the motor would be running at
the same speed (or very close to it) as it would if plugged directly into the 230V
AC mains. However, the RMS voltage reads a little lower than expected, due
to the fact that the spikes which were present in the earlier waveforms are no
longer there to confuse the scope.
February 2014 19
230V
N
INPUT
~
A
A
FUSE (F1)
AND
FILTER
NTC
THERMISTOR
BR1
+
–
q
N
E
~
220nF
K
220nF
–
MOTOR
D1
A
~
~
BR2
+5V
+
REG1
OUT
IN
+15V
K
GND
C
ZD1
GATE
DRIVER
(IC3)
A
VR1
VR2
VR3
E
SNUBBER
PWM
SPEED
FEEDBACK
Q1
G
R1
MICRO–
CONTROLLER
(IC1)
SAMPLE & HOLD,
AMPLIFIER
(Q2, IC2a)
CURRENT
MONITOR
(IC2b)
OVERCURRENT
COMPARATOR
CURRENT
MONITOR
Fig.7: microcontroller IC1 produces a PWM signal
proportional to the speed setting of VR1. Higher speed
settings will produce wide pulses while a lower speed
setting will reduce the pulse width. Switching of the
IGBT is under the control of the gate driver, IC3.
An IGBT is a hybrid of a Mosfet and flow through the motor. This current peak over-current protection provided
bipolar transistor. It has the high im- measurement is used for two purposes. by IC3.
pedance gate drive of a Mosfet but high
Firstly, the current is monitored by IC3
It works as follows: whenever the
current handling at high voltages, like and this IC will reduce drive to the average current exceeds 15A, IC1
a power transistor.
IGBT should the current go beyond a begins to reduce the duty cycle of the
The IGBT we are using has a 40A, peak of about 23A. This IC monitors PWM drive until the comparator out1200V rating (120A peak) and can the peak current during each switching
put switches low, indicating a lower
even withstand a short circuit for 10µs. cycle to protect the IGBT from damage current. It thus provides an overall
Switching of the IGBT is under the due to over current.
current limit.
control of the gate driver, IC3, which
For speed regulation, the voltage
VR2 and VR3 are for the feedback
in turn is controlled by the microcon- across R1 is filtered, sampled and am- control. VR2 is a potentiometer that’s
troller, IC1.
plified. Sampling of the current occurs externally adjustable as it is mounted
IC1 monitors the speed potentiome- only whenever Q1 is switched on to on the lid of the controller. Alternater VR1 and produces a PWM signal drive the motor. The current feedback tively, if you prefer not to have VR2
that is proportional to the speed set- is held at this sampled voltage level mounted on the case lid, then VR3
ting. So for higher speed settings of when the motor is switched off. The can be used to set the degree of feedVR1, the PWM output from IC1 will amplified current measurement is back. VR3 is a trimpot installed inside
be wide pulses while a lower speed monitored by IC1 and averaged over a the controller. The feedback control
setting will reduce the pulse width.
10ms period thus capturing a full half adjusts by how much the duty cycle
The PWM output is fed to IC3 that mains cycle of current.
of the PWM motor drive is increased
then drives the high voltage IGBT
An over-current comparator is under load.
(Q1). Diode D1 is a fast-recovery type included and is also monitored by
One of the advantages of using a
to conduct the motor current when Q1 IC1. It differs from the cycle-by-cycle, microcontroller is that the feedback
is switched off.
control can include features
The “snubber”
not possible with convenacross Q1, consisttional circuitry.
Rating:...........................................10A, 230VAC
ing of a 33Ω resistor
Firstly, when starting the
Speed adjustment:.........................Zero to motor’s maximum
and 10nF capacitor,
motor from stopped, any
suppresses excesfeedback control is inactive
PWM frequency:............................980Hz
sive voltage excuruntil the motor reaches the
Cycle-by-cycle current limiting:.....23A peak
sions.
speed that it is set to run at
Average current limiting: ...............15A
The very low
by the speed control. This
value resistor, R1,
motor-start operation can
Soft start rate: ...............................Up to 2.54s from zero to full speed
is included for
be activated by turning the
NTC thermistor:.............................10Ω at 20°C, <0.1Ω <at>10A
monitoring current
speed control up (from fully
Specifications
20 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller
1 PCB, code 10102141, 112 x 141mm
1 metal diecast case, 171 x 121 x 55mm (Jaycar HB-5046)
1 front panel label, 168 x 118mm
1 10A single switched mains power outlet (GPO)
(HPM CDXL787WEWE or equivalent)
1 240VAC 10A PCB mount EMI filter (Jaycar MS-4000)
(or Schaffner FN 405-10-02 or equivalent)
1 NTC Thermistor (SL32 10015) (Element14 Cat.1653459)
1 10A IEC mains lead
(3-pin mains plug to IEC line female connector)
1 IEC male chassis connector with fuse
(Altronics P 8324, Jaycar PP-4004)
1 10A M205 fast blow fuse (F1)
2 knobs to suit potentiometer shafts
2 2-way PCB mount screw terminal blocks with 5.08mm
spacing (CON1)
5 6.35mm PCB mount male spade connectors with 5.08mm
pin spacing (Altronics H 2094)
5 6.35mm insulated female spade quick connectors with
4-8mm wire diameter entry
2 5.3mm ID insulated quick connect crimp eyelets with
4-6mm wire diameter entry
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 M4 x 10mm pan head or countersunk screw (Earth to
case)
1 M4 x 10mm countersunk screw (Earth to lid)
2 M4 x 15mm pan head screws (GPO Mounting)
1 M4 x 20mm pan head screw (BR1 mounting)
5 M4 nuts
4 4mm star washers
2 M3 x 10mm countersunk screws (for IEC Connector)
2 M3 x 15mm pan head screws (for Q1 and D1)
8 M3 nuts
2 3mm star washers
2 M3.5 x 6mm screws (supplied with case)
(for mounting PCB to case)
4 stick-on rubber feet
6 100mm cable ties
2 TO-3P Silicone insulating washers
1 400mm length of blue 10A mains wire
1 400mm length of brown 10A mains wire
1 400mm length of green/yellow 10A mains wire
1 200mm length of brown 7.5A main wire
1 200mm length of blue 7.5A mains wire
1 70mm length of black 5mm heatshrink tubing
1 10mm length of red 5mm heatshrink tubing
1 40mm length of 2.5mm Vidaflex heat resistant sleeving
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller programmed with
1010214A.hex (IC1)
1 LMC6482AIN dual CMOS op amp (IC2)
1 IR2125 PDIP current limiting single channel
Mosfet/IGBT driver (IC3)
1 LP2950ACZ-5 5V regulator (REG1) (Jaycar ZV1645)
1 STGW40N120KD 1200V 40A NPN IGBT (Q1)
(Element14 Cat. 2344080)
1 2N7000 N-channel Mosfet (Q2)
1 STTH3012W 30A 1200V TO-247 ultra fast recovery diode
(D1) (Element14 Cat.1295262)
1 1N4148 general purpose diode (D2)
1 15V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 35A 400V or 600V bridge rectifier (BR1) (PCB mount;
Altronics Z 0090) or
(with quick-connect terminals; Jaycar ZR-1324 with additional components required. See below)
1 W04 400V 1.2A bridge rectifier (BR2)
Capacitors
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
5 1µF 50V monolithic multilayer (MMC)
1 470nF 63V or 100V MKT polyester
2 220nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
1 100nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
5 100nF 63V or 100V MKT polyester
1 15nF 63V or 100nF MKT polyester
1 10nF 250VAC X2 class MKT polyester
1 470pF ceramic
Resistors [0.25W 1%] #=1W, 5%
2 1MΩ # 1 1MΩ
3 10kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
2 2.2kΩ 1 1kΩ
2 470Ω #
1 330Ω
3 100Ω # 1 10Ω
1 4.7Ω 0.25W 5%
2 24mm 10kΩ linear single gang potentiometers (VR1,VR2)
1 0.010Ω 3W low ohm shunt resistor (TT Electronics, Wellwyn OAR3 R010) (Jaycar RR-3420)
1 10kΩ miniature trimpot (horizontal mount with 5mm pin
spacing) (VR3)
Extra parts required for BR1 with quick-connect terminals:
4 6.35mm PCB mount male spade connectors with 5.08mm
pin spacing (Altronics H 2094)
4 6.35mm insulated female spade quick connectors with
4-8mm wire diameter entry
1 80mm length of 10mm diameter heatshrink tubing
We have been advised that Jaycar Electronics will be producing a kit for this speed controller: Cat KC5526 will sell for $149.00 and
should be available from all Jaycar stores next month.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 21
Ready for next month’s construction details, here’s the inside view of the new
Speed Controller. It’s fully self contained within a rugged diecast box.
anticlockwise) or by switching on the
motor. The lack of feedback control
prevents the motor giving a large
overshoot in its speed when it first
starts up. A stopped motor is detected
as being each time the average motor
current drops to zero.
Secondly, the microcontroller can
“dial out” the idle (no load) motor current so motor speed is not increased
markedly with increased feedback settings. If this is dialled out, only the extra current drawn by the motor under
load is used by IC1 to adjust PWM to
maintain motor speed. This feature is
especially useful with higher-current
motors.
The motor idle current is dialled
out by running the motor at the speed
required with the speed control and
22 Silicon Chip
with the feedback control set to its
minimum setting. The motor’s idle
current will then be recorded by IC1
and feedback will only operate when
motor current exceeds this current.
Any changes that increase the motor speed, either through a change in
position of the speed control or starting
the motor, the PWM signal is varied at
a slow rate with small increases made
each 10ms.
For a complete ramp-up in motor
speed over the possible 255 speed settings, full PWM duty is only available
after ramping up over 2.54s.
Circuit description
The circuit for the Motor Speed Controller is shown in Fig.8. It comprises
three ICs, several diodes, resistors and
capacitors plus the high voltage IGBT,
Q1. Power for the circuit is derived
directly from the 230VAC mains.
The entire circuit floats at mains potential and is therefore unsafe to touch
whenever the circuit is connected to
the mains. Also note that the circuit
ground is floating at mains potential (it
is not connected to mains earth which
connects only to the metal case).
Mains power supplied to the controller circuit is via a fuse, F1, that’s
integral to the IEC input connector.
This fuse protects the circuit against
excessive current flow such as can
occur with a short across the motor.
An Electromagnetic Interference
(EMI) filter reduces switching artefacts
from the IGBT and motor being radiated back to the mains wiring. This
is a commercially-made filter that
consists of a pair of 2.2nF to 3.3nF
capacitors from Active and Neutral
to Earth, followed by a 0.3 to 0.4mA
current-compensated series choke for
each line, then a 15nF to 100nF capacitor across the load terminals (actual
values depend on manufacturer).
BR1 is a 35A bridge rectifier with a
400V or 600V rating. The bridge provides the circuit with the positive fullwave rectified mains voltage to power
the motor. This supply is filtered using
a 100nF 250VAC capacitor. The capacitor does not provide a smoothed
DC supply. Instead the capacitor just
filters out much of the high frequency
switching noise on the supply due to
the motor and also helps to reduce
the voltage induced when the IGBT is
switched off and D1 becomes forward
biased.
A separate supply arrangement is
used for the low voltage circuitry.
Instead of just using high wattage resistors to limit current to a zener diode,
we use a capacitor-coupled separate
bridge rectifier in order to reduce
power and more importantly heat
dissipation inside the controller case.
The second rectifier (BR2) is fed
via two 220nF capacitors and series
470resistors.
The 220nF capacitors are used to
provide an impedance limited current to the 15V zener diode, ZD1. For
50Hz, the impedance of each 220nF
capacitor is 14.5kΩ . This, plus the
470Ω limits the current through ZD1.
A 100µF capacitor across the resulting
15V supply smooths the voltage to a
near-constant value.
The 470Ω resistors in series with
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 23
E
F1 10A
100nF
100nF
2.2k
FEEDBACK
OSC1
OSC2
AN3
AN2
AN1
5
Vss
RA0
RB0
RB1
RB2
AN4
RB3/PWM
RB4
RB5
RB6
RB7
14
Vdd
IC1
PIC16F88
PIC1
6F88
RA5/MCLR
4
10k
17
6
7
8
3
9
10
11
12
13
+5V
7
100mF
4
IC2b
8
–
CON7
6
5
10k
MMC
1mF
GND
OUT
+
1M 1W
100nF
250VAC
X2
1M 1W
MMC
1mF
A
K
ZD1
15V
1W
220nF 250VAC X2
CON6
100mF
MMC
1mF
470W 1W
–
BR2
W04
470W 1W
+3.4V
MMC
1mF
1
AMPLIFIER
100nF
10k
IC2a
2
3
IC2: LMC6482AIN
330W
0V
3
2
Err
In
1M
K
COM
4
G
S
A
A
ZD1
IN4148
SAMPLE & HOLD
Q2 2N7000
D
1k
Vs
5
6
K
K
15nF
Cs
8
Vb
7
Hout
IC3
IR2125
A
q
NTC
THERMISTOR
SL32 10015
CON9
CON8
325V
D1
STTH3012W
1
Vcc
A
K
D2 1N4148
+
470pF
+15V
~
~
100nF
ALL COMPONENTS AND WIRING IN THIS
CIRCUIT OPERATE AT MAINS POTENTIAL.
DO NOT OPERATE WITH CASE OPEN –
ANY CONTACT COULD BE FATAL!
4.7k
IN
REG1
LP2950ACZ-5
BR1 35A 600V
~
~
OVER-CURRENT COMPARATOR
METAL CASE EARTH
(NOT CONNECTED TO
CIRCUIT GROUND)
CON5
CON4
10A 230VAC INTELLIGENT SPEED CONTROLLER
16
15
2
1
18
CON3
10A EMI FILTER
Fig.8: the complete circuit diagram. Note the warning – it is not safe to work on
an open case when connected to the 230V AC mains!
SC
Ó2014
CON1
CON2
MMC
1mF
100nF
2.2k
*ALTERNATIVE TO
VR2 FOR FEEDBACK
ADJUSTMENT
VR3*
10k
VR2
10k
VR1
10k
SPEED
FUSED IEC INLET
N
A
220nF 250VAC X2
E
N
0V
D
S
3W
~–
+
~
W04
0.01W
G
2N7000
G
470nF
10W
4.7W
Q1
STGW40N120KD
IGBT
METAL CASE EARTH
(NOT CONNECTED TO
CIRCUIT GROUND)
A
GPO (MOTOR)
G
IN
A
OUT
E
STGW40N120KD
C
K
10nF
250VAC
X2
LP2950
GND
STTH3012W
E
C
3x
100W
1W
325V
What motors can – and cannot – be controlled?
We’ve noted elsewhere in this article
that this controller suits the vast
majority of power tools and appliances (which use universal motors
– series-wound motors with
brushes). Incidentally, they’re
called universal motors because they
can operate on both AC and DC.
But how do you make sure that your
power tool or appliance is a universal motor and
not an induction motor? As we also said before, induction
motors must not be used with this speed controller. One
clue is that most universal motors are quite noisy compared
to induction motors. However, this is only a guide and it’s
certainly not foolproof.
In many power tools
you can easily identify
that the motor has brushes
and a commutator and you
see sparking from the brushes
and that shows that the motor is a
universal type. But if you can’t see the
brushes, you can also get a clue from the
nameplate or the instruction booklet.
So how do you identify an induction
motor?
Most induction motors used in domestic appliances will be 2-pole or 4-pole
the 220nF capacitors are there to
limit surge current when power is
first applied to the circuit. The surge
current could be high should power
be switched on at the peak voltage of
the mains waveform.
1MΩ resistors across the capacitors
are there to discharge any stored voltage when the power is switched off.
Without these, the capacitor could
have high voltage stored ready to
provide an electric shock to anyone
touching the capacitor when say for
example, trouble shooting the circuit
(even when 230V AC power is disconnected).
The 15V supply powers the IGBT
driver IC3 directly, while a low-power
5V regulator derived from the 15V line
supplies both IC1 and IC2. The 100µF
and 1µF capacitors at the regulator’s
output and input ensure the regulator
remains stable and that it can provide
transient current without losing regulation.
IC3 is a dedicated Mosfet (or IGBT)
driver used as a low-side driver where
the output produces a 15V gate drive
with respect to the circuit ground.
Apart from providing gate drive for
the IGBT, IC3 also protects the IGBT.
24 Silicon Chip
and always operate at
a fixed speed, which is
typically 2850 rpm for a
2-pole or 1440 rpm for a 4-pole
unit. The speed will be on the
nameplate. Bench grinders typically use 2-pole induction motors.
Controlling induction
motors
If you do need to control this type of motor use
the 1.5kW Induction Motor Controller published in April
and May 2012. Note that there are important modifications
published in December 2012.
And a reminder:
You cannot control the speed of any universal motor which
already has an electronic speec control built in, whether
part of the trigger mechanism or with a separate speed dial.
This does not include
tools such as electric
drills which have a twoposition mechanical
speed switch. You can
use our speed controller
with the mechanical
switch set to either
fast or slow.
It does this in several ways. Firstly,
the gate drive is a high current pulse
to minimise the time that the IGBT is
in its unsaturated state to minimise
power dissipation.
Secondly, current is monitored
across a 0.01Ω resistance between
the emitter and the circuit ground.
Whenever the voltage across this
resistor rises above 230mV, representing a 23A current, the IGBT will be
current-limited.
Current limiting is done by reducing the gate drive output voltage to
maintain the 23A. This limiting occurs
within 500ns of the over current and
this is well within the 10µs required
for the IGBT to be protected.
Thirdly, under-voltage protection
provided by IC3 prevents any gate
drive if the supply is below about 8V.
Note that while IC3 is powered from
WARNING!
This is NOT a project for the
inexperienced. Do not attempt
to build it unless you are
familiar with working with
high voltage circuits.
15V, the input at pin 2 can be as low
as 3.3V logic level. In our circuit a 0V
to 5V signal is applied to IC3 from
the PWM output of the IC1 microcontroller.
IC2a also monitors the current
across the 0.01Ω shunt via a 10Ω and
470nF low-pass filter and Mosfet Q2 is
used as a sample and hold buffer. Q2
is switched on when the PWM signal
being applied to its gate is high. The
Mosfet then conducts and passes the
voltage that’s across the 470nF capacitor through to IC2a’s pin 3 input.
When the PWM signal goes low, the
Mosfet is off and so the sampled voltage is stored in the 100nF capacitor.
The 15nF capacitor at the gate of Q2,
in conjunction with the 1kΩ gate resistor, slows down the switch-on speed of
Q2. Diode D2 switches off the Mosfet
more quickly when the PWM goes low.
The slow switching of Q2 is needed
to reduce voltage feed-through from
the gate to the drain and source. Feedthrough occurs each time the gate
is switched and the sudden voltage
change is capacitively coupled to the
drain and source.
This effect is minimised by reducing
the switch on rate and also having a
siliconchip.com.au
low impedance source to the Mosfet.
Low impedance is ensured using the
0.01Ω shunt, the 10Ω series resistor
and 470µF capacitor.
Note that internal to Q2 is an intrinsic diode that allows conduction of
current from the source to the drain.
While Q2 could be connected in this
circuit with the drain and source
reversed, connecting this way would
allow the 100nF capacitor at pin 3 of
IC2a to discharge via the diode, when
the shunt resistance voltage is lower
than the 100nF capacitor’s voltage.
IC2a amplifies the sampled voltage
by about 31. The resulting voltage is
read by IC1 via its AN4 input. IC1 effectively averages the voltage at AN4
over a 10ms period so as to capture
a full half-wave portion of the mains
cycle for current measurement.
The averaged current measurement
is multiplied by the feedback setting
of VR2 (which can be regarded as
optional) or VR3. This multiplication
value is then used to apply PWM adjustment for maintaining motor speed.
IC1 determines if VR2 is connected
at each power up. If it is not, monitoring is redirected to VR3. Initially, AN2
is configured as an output that is set
siliconchip.com.au
low (0V). Then AN2 is reconfigured as
an analog input and the voltage level
is measured.
If the level is much higher than 0V
then VR2 must be connected to be
able to change the level. If the level
is essentially unchanged, the pin is
configured as an output again but this
time the output is set high (5V).
Then AN2 is set as an input and
the level measured. If it remains high,
then the input is open. If the input is
at a lower level, then VR2 must be
connected.
If VR2 is not detected, pin 1 is set
as a low output and VR3 is used as
the feedback input. The 2.2kΩ resistor in series is there to prevent the
output being shorted during testing.
The 100nF capacitor is to hold voltage
during testing.
The 2.2kΩ resistor and 100nF capacitor are also included to filter out
noise from associated mains wiring
that could be coupled in through the
potentiometer’s wiper wiring. The
same filtering is also included for
potentiometer VR1.
Over-current
IC2b compares the voltage from
IC2a’s output (pin1) against a reference
set at 3.4V by the 4.7kΩ and 10kΩ resistors connected across the 5V supply.
The output (pin 7) goes high when IC2a
output is higher than 3.4V.
Output from IC2b is ignored by IC1
unless the averaged current as detected
at the AN4 input exceeds 15A. IC1
then begins to reduce the duty cycle
of the PWM drive until the comparator
output switches low.
Physical details
The motor speed controller is
housed in a rugged diecast aluminium
case, and has separate rotary speed and
adjustable feedback controls.
The controller plugs into the mains
via a standard IEC mains lead, while
the motorised appliance plugs into a
switched mains socket on the controller’s case lid.
Next month:
That completes the technical description of our new Super-Smooth
Full Range Universal Motor Speed
Controller. We’re sure you’ll agree
that this one really delivers the goods.
In our next issue, we’ll get into the
exciting part: building it!
SC
February 2014 25
SILICON
CHIP
.com.au/shop
ONLINESHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest SILICON CHIP project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re after.
Or a pre-programmed micro. Or some other hard-to-get “bit”. The chances are they are available direct from the SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP has established the ONLINESHOP. No, we’re not going into opposition with your normal suppliers –
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• PCBs are normally IN STOCK and ready for despatch when that month’s magazine goes on sale (you don’t have to wait for them to be made!).
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and some
selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly! Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC18F14K50
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
PIC12F675-I/P
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
PIC18F4550-I/P
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13),
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13) 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
PIC18LF14K22
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
PIC18F1320-I/SO
Intelligent Dimmer (Apr09)
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
PIC32MX250F128B-I/SP GPS Tracker (Nov13)
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14)
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/P Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
ATMega48
Stereo DAC (Sep-Nov09)
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, SHORT-FORM KITS, ETC
RF Probe All SMD parts
(Aug13) $5.00
G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER Short form kit (Aug11/Nov11) $44.50 $40.00
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL Short form kit (Aug11/Nov11) $44.50
$40.00
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
CLASSiC DAC Semi kit
(Feb-May13)
$45.00
Includes three hard-to-get SMD ICs: CS8416-CZZ, CS4398-CZZ and PLL1708DBQ plus
an accurate 27MHz crystal and ten 3mm blue LEDs with diffused lenses
“LUMP IN COAX” MINI MIXER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
$20.00
Includes: 2 x OPA4348AID, 1 x BQ2057CSN, 2 x DMP2215L, 1 x BAT54S, 1 x 0.22Ω shunt
LF-HF UP-CONVERTER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
$15.00
Includes: FXO-HC536R-125 and SA602AD and all SMD passive components
ISL9V5036P3 IGBT
(Nov/Dec12)
$10.00
As used in high energy ignition and Jacob’s Ladder
(Feb13)
2.5GHz Frequency Counter (Dec12/Jan13) LED Kit: 3 x 4-digit blue LED displays
$15.00
MMC & Choke Kit: ERA-2SM+ Wideband MMC and ADCH-80+ Wideband Choke
$15.00
IPP230N06L3 N-Channel logic level Mosfets
$5.00
As used in a variety of SILICON CHIP Projects (Pack of 2)
P&P – $10 Per order#
ZXCT1009 Current Shunt Monitor IC
(Oct12)
$5.00
LF-HF Up-converter Omron G5V-1 5V SPDT 5V relay (June13)
SMD parts for SiDRADIO
(Oct13)
$20.00
As used in DCC Reverse Loop Controller/Block Switch (Pack of 2)
Same as LF-UF Upconverter parts but includes 5V relay and BF998 dual-gate Mosfet.
GPS Tracker
(Nov13)
MCP16301 SMD regulator IC and 15H inductor
STEREO AUDIO DELAY
(Nov13)
WM8731 DAC IC and SMD capacitors.
$2.00
$5.00
$20.00
10A 230V AC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
(Feb14)
$45.00
40A IGBT, 30A Fast Recovery Diode, IR2125 Driver and NTC Thermistor
TENDA USB/SD AUDIO PLAYBACK MODULE (TD896 or 898) (Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 3-WAY
(Jan12)
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 2-WAY
(Jan12)
$33.00
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC & reader to play!)
$62.00
n/a
$4.50
$3.45
02/14
LOOKING FOR TECHNICAL BOOKS? YOU’LL FIND THE COMPLETE LISTING OF ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE IN THE SILICON CHIP ONLINE BOOKSTORE – ON THE “BOOKS & DVDs” PAGES OF OUR WEBSITE
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and included GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
NOTE: These listings are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
Prices in GREEN are lower prices: buy now while stocks last!
PCB CODE:
Price:
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
JAN 1993
06112921 $25.00
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981 $10.00
MINIMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
APR 2001
06104011 $25.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021 $10.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031 $10.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031 $25.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041 $10.00
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041 $25.00
LITTLE JIM AM TRANSMITTER
JAN 2006
06101062 $25.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061 $25.00
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
APRIL 2006
01104061 $25.00
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061 $25.00
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061 $25.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (A) (IMPROVED)
MAR 2007
04103073 $30.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
MAR 2007
04103072 $20.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071 $25.00
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071 $20.00
CDI MODULE SMALL PETROL MOTORS
MAY 2008
05105081 $15.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081 $10.00
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER (Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec 2010 [18112101])
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
JAN 2009
10101091 $45.00
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091 $35.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
APR 2009
10104091 $10.00
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
MAY 2009
04205091 $10.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
MAY 2009
04105091 $30.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
JUNE 2009
07106091 $20.00
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
AUG 2009
15008091 $10.00
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
AUG 2009
15008092 $45.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
SEPT 2009
04208091
$5.00
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
JAN 2010
01101101 $25.00
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
JUN 2010
04106101 $25.00
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
AUG 2010
04108101 $40.00
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
SEP 2010
04109101 $25.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
SEP 2010
01209101 $25.00
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210101 $10.00
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210102 $10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
OCT 2010
16110102 $45.00
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
NOV 2010
01111101 $25.00
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
DEC 2010
04112101 $25.00
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
DEC 2010
18112101 $10.00
433MHZ SNIFFER
JAN 2011
06101111 $10.00
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
JAN 2011
99101111 $25.00
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
JAN 2011
01101111 $25.00
LED DAZZLER
FEB 2011
16102111 $20.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
FEB 2011
14102111 $15.00
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
FEB 2011
06102111
$5.00
THE MAXIMITE
MAR 2011
06103111 $15.00
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
MAR 2011
18103111 $10.00
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MAR 2011
04103111 $10.00
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
MAR 2011
01209101 $25.00
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
APRIL 2011
01104111 $10.00
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
APRIL 2011
04104111 $10.00
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
APRIL 2011
13104111 $10.00
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
MAY 2011
01105111 $30.00
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
MAY 2011
11105111 $15.00
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
MAY 2011
12105111 $10.00
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
JUNE 2011
11106111 $20.00
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
JUNE 2011
07106111 $20.00
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
JUNE 2011
19106111 $25.00
USB BREAKOUT BOX
JUNE 2011
04106111 $10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
JULY 2011
01107111 $25.00
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
JULY 2011
04107111 $20.00
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
JULY 2011
20107111-4 $80 per set
VOX
JULY 2011
01207111 $20.00
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
AUG 2011
01108111 $10.00
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
AUG 2011
04108111 $10.00
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
SEP 2011
04109111 $20.00
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
SEP 2011
01209111
$5.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
SEP 2011
01109111 $25.00
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
SEP 2011
01309111 $20.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
04103073 $30.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER/NECK COUPLER
SEP 2011
01209101 $10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
16110111 $30.00
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
23110111 $25.00
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
08110111 $25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
01111111 $30.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODULE
NOV 2011
01111112 $20.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
01111113 $10.00
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
04111111 $20.00
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
07111111 $10.00
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111 $25.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121 $10.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121 $30.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2 $30 per set
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121 $20.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121 $40.00
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122 $40.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123 $75.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121 $10.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112 $20.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121 $10.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04104121 $20.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
04104122 $20.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012 10105122 $35.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
MAY 2012
21105121 $30.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
21105122/3 $20 per set
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01106121 $20.00
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
24105121 $30.00
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
08109121 $10.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
04106121 $20.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
04106122 $20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
05106121 $20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
05106122 $10.00
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
10107121 $10.00
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
03107121 $20.00
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
10108121 $10.00
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
04108121 $20.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
24109121 $30.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
24109122 $30.00
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
25108121 $20.00
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
07109121 $20.00
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
09109121 $10.00
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
03110121
$5.00
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
09110121 $10.00
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
16110121 $25.00
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
16110121 $20 per set
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
01108121 $30.00
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
01108122 $10.00
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
05110121 $10.00
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
04109121 $10.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)
DEC 2012 10105122 $35.00
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB) JAN 2013
01109121/2 $10.00
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
19111121 $10.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
04111121 $35.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
04111122 $15.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
04111123 $45.00
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
21102131 $20.00
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
12110121 $10.00
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
04103131 $10.00
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
16102131
$5.00
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
01102131 $40.00
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
01102132/3 $30.00
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
04104131 $15.00
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
08103131
$5.00
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013
11104131 $15.00
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013 12104131 $10.00
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013 07106131 $10.00
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013 15106131 $15.00
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013 15106132 $7.50
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
01106131 $15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
09107131 $15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
09107132/3 $20.00/set
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
15106133 $15.00
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107131 $5.00
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107132 $10.00
IPOD CHARGER
AUG 2013
14108131
$5.00
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
08104131 $10.00
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
04107131 $10.00
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
11108131
$5.00
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
05109131 $10.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Main PCB
OCT 2013
06109131 $35.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Front & Rear Panels
OCT 2013
06109132/3 $25.00/pr
TINY TIM AMPLIFIER (same PCB as Headphone Amp [Sept11])
OCT 2013
01309111 $20.00
AUTO CAR HEADLIGHT CONTROLLER
OCT 2013
03111131 $10.00
GPS TRACKER
NOV 2013
05112131 $15.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY/DSP
NOV 2013
01110131 $15.00
BELLBIRD
DEC 2013
08112131 $10.00
PORTAPAL-D MAIN BOARDS
DEC 2013
01111131-3 $35.00/set
(for CLASSiC-D Amp board and CLASSiC-D DC/DC Converter board refer above [Nov 2012/May 2013])
LED PARTY STROBE (also for Hot Wire Cutter [Dec 2010]) JAN 2014
16101141 $7.50
BASS EXTENDER Mk2
LI’L PULSER Mk2 Revised
10A 230VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
JAN 2014
JAN 2014
FEB 2014
01112131
$15.00
09107134 $15.00
10102141 $
15.00
Stereo Echo &
Reverb Unit
By NICHOLAS VINEN
Based on the Stereo Audio Delay featured in the November 2013
issue, this modified unit can be used to provide adjustable echo or
reverberation for recording or public address (PA) work. By using
revised software and slight changes to the circuitry, we show how
the same hardware can provide these different functions. We’ll also
describe some extra features that can be useful in either mode.
I
N ESSENCE, the Stereo Audio Delay
described in the November 2013
issue consists of an analog-to-digital
converter (ADC) and a digital-toanalog converter (DAC), with a PIC32
microcontroller processing the digital
audio stream between the two. This
microcontroller has a large internal
RAM (128KB) which, together with
an optional external 1MB SRAM chip,
can be used for buffering and manipulating the audio data stream.
By controlling how much of this
memory is used for buffering, the
PIC32 can delay the audio by a variable amount. But it can also process
the audio data and perform some sort
of filtering, for example.
In fact, providing an adjustable echo
effect requires only a small amount
of additional processing compared
28 Silicon Chip
to what’s needed for audio delay; we
simply need to mix a proportion of
the delayed audio back into the input
signal.
This simulates a real (acoustic) echo,
whereby sound waves travel a significant distance, resulting in a time delay
(since sound travels at around 340m/s
at sea level). The attenuation of expanding sound waves travelling through a
significant volume of air, along with
the losses inherent in reflections off
less-than-perfect surfaces, result in the
volume of the echo being lower than
that of the original sound.
The echo itself has an echo, so that
a single transient sound has a number
of echoes, spaced equally apart in time
and with a decaying sound level. This
aspect of echo is also simulated by the
above simple method. That’s because
by mixing an attenuated version of
the delayed signal back into the input
signal, that echo itself is delayed and
attenuated, and so on ad infinitum
until the volume has decayed so far
that it is no longer audible (see Fig.1).
Fig.3 shows the circuit of the Stereo
Echo/Reverberation Unit. It’s basically
just the Stereo Audio Delay described
in November 2013 with various
optional extra bits added on (plus
the revised software for the micro).
Provision was made on the original
PCB to accept these extra bits, so you
don’t have to start from scratch with
a new board. Instead, it’s just a matter of building the PCB has originally
described and adding the extra parts.
Enabling echo mode
As it stands, the November 2013
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
• Adjustable stereo echo or reverb with interval of 0-640ms
• Echo delay and attenuation adjustable via front panel knobs
• Optional defeat switch connection for foot pedal; can configured as normally on or
normally off
•
• Signal-to-noise ratio: typically >76dB (line inputs/outputs)
• Optimal line input signal range: 0.5-2V RMS
• Line output signal: 1V RMS
• Input impedance: 4-6kΩ (line input), 8.2kΩ (microphone input)
• Power supply: 7.5-12V DC or 3.8-6.5V DC, depending on configuration; current drain
THD+N: <0.03% (typically <0.02%), 20Hz-20kHz (20Hz-22kHz bandwidth)
60-80mA
• Microphone input: 20-50mV input for full scale output, signal-to-noise ratio 67dB.
• Headphone output: drives 8-32Ω at up to 50mW, THD+N 0.05% <at> 10mW/32Ω,
volume adjustable in 1dB steps
The new unit is built on the same
PCB as the Stereo Audio Delay Unit
described in November 2013. It’s just
a matter of adding a few extra parts
and using revised software.
unit can be switched from delay mode
to echo mode by placing a shorting
jumper across pins 3 & 4 of CON7, the
ICSP header.
When the unit is powered up, the
software briefly attempts to pull pin
4 high and checks its state. With no
jumper plugged into CON7, this pin
will be sensed as high and so the unit
will perform its default task which is to
provide audio delay. However if pins
3 & 4 are shorted, pin 4 will remain
low despite the pull-up and so echo
mode is activated.
As explained last November, pins 4
& 5 of CON7 are normally PWM signals generated by the microcontroller
which can be measured in order to
determine the configured delay in
milliseconds. But if the software detects that pin 4 is shorted to ground at
start-up, it disables this PWM output
in order to avoid driving this short
circuit. You can measure the echo
Fig.1: this scope grab shows the input (yellow) and output
(green) signals when the unit is set to echo mode with
a delay of approximately 70ms and an attenuation of
around 6dB. The initial burst is output immediately at a
somewhat reduced level, followed by echoes, of which the
first two are shown. Each is lower in amplitude compared
to the previous echo.
siliconchip.com.au
delay at pin 5; in echo mode, the unit
will only operate in stereo so there is
only one delay to measure.
The other reason that echo will only
operate in stereo is that in this mode,
VR1 (or VR3) is used to set the echo
delay while VR2 (or VR4), if present,
sets the echo attenuation. If neither
VR2 nor VR4 are installed, then the
attenuation is set to 12dB.
As with the regular delay mode,
a delay of up to 600ms is available
without the external SRAM chip IC3
fitted or up to six seconds with IC3 in
place. But 600ms is quite a long delay
and should be sufficient for most echo
effects.
Fig.2: this scope grab shows the same waveforms as in
Fig.1 but this time with reverb mode enabled and using a
similar delay. In this case, the echoes are even lower in
amplitude but they are followed almost immediately by
a further series of ‘sub-echoes’ which themselves decay
fairly rapidly. This makes for a more complex echo effect
with greater ‘depth’.
February 2014 29
4.7Ω
1k
2x
100nF
2x
100 µF
1000 µF
1 µF MMC
20
1 µF MMC
VR5
5k
19
1k
CON1
18
17
1nF
MMC
14
HPVdd AVdd
LLINEIN
2x
100 µF
10k
27
1
DBVdd DCVdd
21
MODE
9
LHPOUT
RLINEIN
LOUT
MICIN
12
10
RHPOUT
IC3
WM8731
13
25
XTI/MCLK
ROUT
CODEC
VR6
5k
26
7
AUX1
(PIN 7, CON5)
6
1 µF
Rmic
MMC
2
1
OPTIONAL
MIC INPUT
2x
100nF
FB1
MMC
8
1nF
INPUT
+3.3V
3
MIC
680Ω
BIAS
CON9
2
X1
12MHz
MICBIAS
XTO
ADCLRC
DACDAT
ADCDAT
SCLK
BCLK
SDIN
CSB
CLKOUT
VMID HPGND AGND DGND
16
47k
220pF
33pF
33pF
5
DACLRC
15
11
4
24
23
22
28
100nF
22 µF
MMC
L1 100 µH
+3.3V
100nF
NO (S2)
19
39
40
50
51
42
55
54
48
53
52
21
49
NC
DEFEAT SWITCH
VR3
10k
(ALT TO
VR1)
DELAY
VR4
10k
(ALT TO
VR2)
DEPTH
AUX4
(PIN 1, CON5)
POT1
MCS
AUX1
RD
WR
11
33
34
36
37
VBUSON
USBID
VBUS
D–
D+
POT2
35
100nF
FB2
ANALOG
GND
60
61
62
63
64
1
2
3
D7
D6
D5
D4
D3
D2
D1
D0
DIGITAL
GND
56
26
10
AVdd
Vdd
CLKI/RC12
CLKO/RC15
SCK1/RD2
RPD3/RD3
RD8
RD7
RD6
RC14
PMRD/RD5
PMWR/RD4
AN8/RB8
AN24/RD1
VBUSON
USBID
VBUS
D–
D+
VUSB3V3
PMD0/RE0
PMD1/RE1
PMD2/RE2
PMD3/RE3
PMD4/RE4
PMD5/RE5
PMD6/RE6
PMD7/RE7
Vcap
10 µF
AVss
20
Vdd
57
38
Vdd
Vdd
MCLR
RF1
PGED2
PGEC2
RD0
RC13
RF0/RPF0
RD9/RPD9
RB4
RB3
RB2
RB1
IC1
PIC3 2 MX470- RB9/PMA7
PIC32MX470F512H RB10/PMA13
RB11/PMA12
RB12/PMA11
RB13/PMA10
RB14/PMA1
RB15/PMA0
RD11/PMA14
RD10/PMA15
RF5/PMA8
RF4/PMA9
RB0/PMA6
RG9/PMA2
RG8/PMA3
RG7/PMA4
RG6/PMA5
Vss
Vss
Vss
9
25
7
59
18
17
46
47
58
43
12
13
14
15
22
23
24
27
28
29
30
45
44
32
31
16
8
6
5
4
A19
A18
A17
A16
A15
A14
A13
A12
A11
A10
A9
A8
A7
A6
A5
A4
A3
A2
A1
A0
41
D2 1N4004
7.5 – 12V
DC INPUT
POWER
V+
D1 1N4004
A
K
K
REG1 LM317
3.3Ω
IN
S1
CON3
LED1
OUT
ADJ
10k
POWER
A
A
K
120Ω
A
1000 µF
λ
+3.3V
D3
1N4004
200Ω
100 µF
100 µF
K
SC
20 1 4
STEREO ECHO/REVERBERATION UNIT
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
+3.3V
HEADPHONES
220 µF 10V
1
47k
2
3
220 µF 10V
CON8
47k
+3.3V
TO IC1
PIN 11
VR7
OPTIONAL STEREO HEADPHONE OUTPUT
100Ω
1 µF MMC
OUTPUT
100Ω
1 µF MMC
CON2
47k
47k
+3.3V
4x
100nF
10k
2
3
PGED
4
PGEC
5
CON7
EXPAND 2
1
2
3
CON6
EXPAND 1
1
AUX4
2
SDO
3
SCK
4
V+
5
+5V
6
+3.3V
7
PGED
8
PGEC
9
10
CON5
EXPANSION SOCKETS
LED1
K
A
1N4004
A
LM317T
K
OUT
ADJ
OUT
siliconchip.com.au
IN
So really it’s just a matter of building
the unit as described in the November
2013 issue, with VR3 & VR4 fitted,
installing the jumper on pins 3 & 4
of CON7, powering it up and then
adjusting the knobs until you get an
echo effect that you are happy with.
We have produced new front and
rear panel labels (Fig.5) with positions
marked to drill the extra holes for VR3
& VR4. Positions are also marked for a
headphone volume control and output
socket which we’ll explain later. These
panels can either be copied or downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website.
Defeat switch
ICSP
SKT
1
AUX1
Fig.3: the Stereo Echo/Reverberation
Unit circuit. It’s basically the same
as the Stereo Audio Delay Unit
published in November 2013 but
with the added circuitry highlighted
with a red background (plus revised
software for IC1).
If you are building this as an echo
effects unit for musical performances,
you will need a way to switch it on and
off. To shut off the echo, we simply
pull input RD7 (pin 55) of IC1 low;
it is internally biased high by a weak
current source. This pin is labelled as
AUX4 on the circuit diagram (Fig.3)
and is wired to a pad on the PCB at
the top, near the middle (see Fig.4).
These pads are designed to suit an
SPDT right-angle pushbutton switch
(eg, Altronics S1498) but for musical
performances, having a button on the
unit isn’t very practical. Instead, we
suggest fitting a 3.5mm phono jack
socket to the rear panel of the unit and
wiring it to the two switch connections on the PCB via a 3-way header
(ie, middle-pin unused). A foot switch
can then be plugged in via a length of
cable fitted with a 3.5mm jack plug.
Foot switches generally have a
double-throw switch, with three terminals: COM, NC (normally closed)
and NO (normally open). If you wire
the plug tip and sleeve to the COM
and NC terminals, pushing on the foot
switch will enable the echo effect and
it will stop when you lift your foot off.
This is the most logical way to wire
it. However, you could also wire the
plug to the COM and NO terminals and
then the echo effect will be disabled by
pressing on the switch and re-enabled
by lifting off.
The wiring arrangement for the foot
switch socket is shown in Fig.4, along
with some extra wiring we’ll describe
later. This is also shown on the circuit
diagram (Fig.3).
Our revised rear panel artwork includes a hole position marked for the
foot switch socket and an associated
label. Note that the position shown
has been chosen to avoid interference
between the panel-mounted socket
and trimpots VR5 & VR6.
Reverb
Echo is basically a simple form of
reverb (or reverberation).
In a space such as a concert hall,
there won’t be just a single echo
duration for sounds originating on
the stage and being heard by people
sitting in the audience. Instead, there
will be many different paths that the
sound can take. The direct path is the
shortest and gives the least attenuation
but sounds also bounce off various
surfaces before reaching the listener
and each path will have its own delay
and (probably frequency-dependent)
attenuation.
Professional reverberation units
can provide many different options,
to simulate halls of various different
configurations. In this unit, we’ve stuck
with a simple approach which gives a
more complex (and audibly distinct)
response than a simple echo without
being terribly processor intensive or
having a lot of parameters to tweak.
Essentially, to obtain the reverb
effect, we add an echo with a short
time delay to the sound, then take the
resulting sound and process that with
a much longer delay. This simulates a
large space where there are multiple
paths for the sound to bounce around,
each with a slightly different length,
and thus the echoes arrive at slightly
different times.
To enable reverb mode, pins 3 & 5 of
CON7 must be shorted. Pin 4 should be
left open and can be used to measure
the set delay.
Note that since pins 3 & 5 aren’t
adjacent, you can’t use a shorting
block to do this. The trick is to use
a 3-pin female header and solder a
short length of wire between the two
outside pins and then plug this into
CON7. Of course, you could solder a
wire directly to pins 3 & 5 of CON7 but
then it’s harder to disconnect.
As with echo, reverb mode only operates in stereo and the adjustments are
February 2014 31
Fig.4: follow this layout diagram to build
the PCB and complete the wiring. The parts
labelled in blue & green are for the optional
microphone and headphone features.
VR7
HEADPHONE
VOLUME
S
HEADPHONE
OUTPUT
T
R
LED1
POWER
CON5
CON2
100 µF
22 µF
1nF
100nF
PIC32MX470F
1
CON7
ICSP
+
120Ω
200Ω
5k
10 µF
100nF
CON3 DC
7
.5 –12V
5k
R
R
T
S
identical. The long delay is adjusted as
for echo mode while the short delay is
automatically set to be 1/8th as long.
So if you select a 200ms long delay,
the short delay will be 25ms.
The same attenuation setting is used
for both short and long delays and as
with echo, this can be adjusted with
VR3/VR4; otherwise it’s set to 12dB
by default.
Echo/reverb switching
An SPDT switch can be used if you
want to be able to switch between echo
and reverb modes. To do this, first connect its common terminal to pin 3 of
CON7 (or another ground connection
point) via a series 1kΩ resistor. The
two remaining switch terminals then
go to pins 4 & 5 of CON7.
The 1kΩ resistor is necessary to prevent a dead short to the PWM output if
switching is done while the unit is on.
Note that since the unit only checks
the state of these pins at power-up, you
32 Silicon Chip
4004
ECHO MODE: SHORT PINS 3 & 4 OF CON7
REVERB MODE: SHORT PINS 3 & 5 OF CON7
T
NOTE: IC3 & THE THREE CAPACITORS LABELLED IN PURPLE NOT NEEDED FOR
ECHO/REVERB BUT CAN BE LEFT IN-CIRCUIT IF ALREADY FITTED
+
100 µF
1k
INPUT
1000 µF
100 µF
1k
CON1
D2
4004
10k
100nF
IC1
1nF
10k
3.3Ω
100nF
IC3
R1LV0808ASB
100nF
D1
D3
4004
1
+
VR5
OUTPUT
100nF
100nF
2x
1 µF
33pF
REG1
LM317
5
L1
100nF
47k
47k
+
1000 µF
POWER
100 µH
100nF
220 µF
100Ω
100Ω
47k
47k
+
100nF
100 µF
+
X1
33pF
S1
VR6
FB2
100 µF
10k
4.7Ω
220 µF
100nF
+
100 µF
+
K A
+
R
PHONES
CON8
100 µF+
+ 100nF
1 µF
1 µF
1 µF
+
GND
01110131
Stereo Audio Delay/
DSP Board 24bit/96kHz
FB1
L
S2
DEFEAT
IC2
WM8731L
MIC
CON9
DEPTH
0Ω
47k
+
220pF
VR4
DELAY
680Ω
VR3
MICROPHONE
INPUT
S
TO FOOT
SWITCH
would then have to switch the unit
off and then on again to complete the
changeover.
Headphone & mic support
In the November 2013 issue, the
following pins of CODEC IC2 were unconnected: LHPOUT, RHPOUT, MICIN
and MICBIAS. These pins can be used
for a microphone input and/or a stereo
headphone output – see Fig.3.
This allows you to take advantage of
the headphone amplifier with digital
volume control and the microphone
amplifier with electret bias built into
the IC. When a microphone is connected, the microcontroller detects
this and automatically switches from
sampling the line inputs to sampling
the microphone input.
By the way, the microphone amplifier in IC2 is quite a bit noisier than a
good external microphone amplifier
(which could be connected to the line
inputs) but you may find it suitable for
some uses (see the spec. panel).
To add a headphone output, it’s
just a matter of installing the additional parts labelled in green on the
PCB layout (Fig.4). This consists of
two 220µF DC-blocking electrolytic
capacitors and their associated 47kΩ
resistors, plus 3-pin header CON8. A
panel-mounted 3.5mm phono socket is
then wired back to this header. We’ve
shown a 2-core shielded cable for this
connection but it doesn’t really need
to be shielded.
You also need to wire up an extra
potentiometer (VR7) to allow the volume to be controlled. This volume pot
is also mounted on the front panel,
next to the other two pots, and wired
to 10-way pin header CON5 (which
must also be installed) and to a single
pin soldered to a pad just below and
to the left of IC1.
By wiring the pot this way, we’re
connecting in a virtually the same manner as VR3 and VR4, ie, across the 3.3V
siliconchip.com.au
supply rail. The wiper is connected
to pin 11 of IC1 via the single pin
connection shown, which is the only
remaining free ADC-capable input of
IC1. This connection is also indicated
on the circuit diagram (Fig.3).
The revised software (0111013B.
hex) for microcontroller IC1 auto
matically detects when this pot is
present and if it is, constantly samples
the voltage at pin 11. If this voltage
changes, IC1 sends a command to
CODEC IC2 to adjust the headphone
output volume.
Below: this photo shows the completed PCB with all
the echo/reverb, microphone and headphone parts all
in place. The SRAM chip (IC3) isn’t necessary for echo/
reverb but can be left in circuit if already fitted.
Microphone input
Above: the fully-assembled PCB mounted inside the case and with the wiring
completed. Use cable ties to secure the wiring as shown.
HEADPHONES
SILICON
CHIP
POWER
VOLUME
STEREO ECHO/REVERB
DEPTH
The extra circuitry required to hook
up a microphone is also quite simple.
As shown on Fig.3, the signal from
the microphone is fed in via a 1µF
non-polarised capacitor. The resistor
labelled “Rmic” is normally 0Ω which
sets the microphone gain to 26dB.
However, if this is too much gain,
you can reduce it somewhat by using
a higher-value resistor.
A 39kΩ resistor for Rmic will reduce
the gain to 20dB, while a 15kΩ resistor
will give a gain of approximately 23dB.
For maximum gain, if you don’t have
a 0Ω resistor, use a wire link instead.
If using an unpowered electret
microphone, it will require a small
bias current to operate. In this case,
the 680Ω resistor should be fitted and
the bias current will come from IC2’s
MICBIAS output which is enabled by
default when a microphone is plugged
in. The 47kΩ resistor to ground provides 0V DC bias for the microphone
when there is no bias current, while
a 220pF capacitor provides a small
amount of RF filtering.
The micro detects when a microphone is plugged in by monitoring
input pin RC14 (pin 48) which is
connected to a track labelled “AUX1”
via pin 7 of 10-way pin header CON5.
As explained previously, this header
DELAY
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
.
siliconchip.com.au
AUDIO INPUT
MICROPHONE INPUT
FOOT SWITCH
+
AUDIO OUTPUT
Fig.5: these two
artworks can be
copied and used as
drilling templates
for the front & rear
panels. They can
also be downloaded
as a PDF file from
the SILICON CHIP
website.
7.5-12V DC
February 2014 33
The additional 3.5mm
microphone input and foot
switch jack sockets are
mounted on the rear panel.
A 7.5-12V DC plugpack
powers the unit.
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, coded
01110131, 148 x 80mm
1 ABS plastic instrument case,
155 x 86 x 30mm (Altronics
H0377)
1 set front and rear panel labels
4 No.4 x 6mm self-tapping screws
1 12MHz HC-49 crystal (X1)
1 100µH axial RF inductor (L1)
1 10kΩ multi-turn vertical trimpot
(VR1) OR 1 x 10kΩ 9mm horizontal potentiometer (VR3)
2 5kΩ horizontal mini trimpots
(VR5,VR6)
2 6.35mm PCB-mount stereo switched jack sockets
(CON1,CON2) (Jaycar PS0195,
Altronics P0099 or P0073)
1 5-way pin header, 2.54mm pitch
(CON7)
1 PCB-mount SPDT right-angle
toggle switch (Altronics S1320)
1 DC plugpack, 7.5-12V, 100mA+
2 4mm ferrite suppression beads
1 PCB-mount switched DC socket
to suit plugpack
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw and
nut
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT 32-bit
microcontroller programmed
with 0111013B.hex (IC1) (available from SILICON CHIP Online
Shop)
1 WM8731SEDS or TLV320AIC23BIPW 24-bit 96kHz stereo
CODEC (IC2) (element14
1776264)
1 LM317T adjustable regulator
(REG1)
34 Silicon Chip
1 3mm blue LED (LED1)
3 1N4004 diodes (D1-D3)
Capacitors
2 1000µF 25V electrolytic
6 100µF 16V electrolytic
1 22µF 16V electrolytic
1 10µF 6.3V 0805 SMD ceramic
4 1µF 50V monolithic ceramic
11 100nF 6.3V 0805 SMD ceramic
2 1nF MKT
2 33pF ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 47kΩ
1 120Ω
3 10kΩ
2 100Ω
2 1kΩ
1 4.7Ω 0.5W 5%
1 200Ω
1 3.3Ω 0.5W 5%
Add-on Features
For echo/reverb:
1 3.5mm panel-mount stereo jack socket (eg, Jaycar
PS0133, Altronics P0092)
1 3-way pin header
1 jumper shunt
1 100mm length 2-strand ribbon
cable
1 2-core cable with 3.5mm jack
plug at one end (length as
required)
1 foot switch
For headphone output:
1 3.5mm panel-mount stereo jack socket (eg, Jaycar
PS0133, Altronics P0092)
1 10kΩ 9mm panel-mount
linear potentiometer (Jaycar
RP8510)
1 small knob to suit
2 220µF 10V electrolytic capacitors
2 47kΩ 0.25W resistors
1 100mm length 2-core shielded
cable or 3-strand ribbon cable
1 100mm length 3-strand ribbon
cable
1 14-way (or more) snappable
pin header
For microphone input:
1 3.5mm panel-mount stereo jack socket (eg, Jaycar
PS0133, Altronics P0092)
1 1µF multi-layer ceramic capacitor
1 220pF ceramic capacitor
1 47kΩ 0.25W resistor
1 680Ω 0.25W resistor
1 2-way pin header
1 100mm length shielded cable
1 100mm length ribbon cable
strand or light-duty hookup
wire
For low-voltage supply:
1 LM3940IT-3.3 or TS2940-3.3
low-dropout 3.3V regulator
(REG2) (Jaycar ZV1565,
Altronics Z0599)
1 1N5819 1A Schottky diode
(D1)
1 470µF 10V electrolytic capacitor
1 100µF 16V electrolytic capacitor
Delete REG1 & associated parts
Note: microcontroller IC1 must be
programmed with revised software
(ie, 0111013B.hex) for echo/reverb
and the other add-on features to
work.
siliconchip.com.au
47k
47k
+
FB2
100nF
100 µF
+
+
100nF
2x
1 µF
100 µF
X1
100nF
33pF
1nF
100 µH
5819
10k
3.3Ω
100nF
CON7
ICSP
D1
L1
33pF
+
22 µF
IC3
R1LV0808ASB
100 µF
REG1
LM317
100nF
100nF
IC1
1nF
10k
4.7Ω
220 µF
100 µF
+
+ 100nF
100nF
+
Fig.6: the unit can be powered from
a 4-6V DC supply by replacing +
REG1 with an LM3940IT-3.3
lowR
220 µF 1000 µF
dropout regulator as PHONES
shown here.
GND
100 µF+
FB1
OUT
S1
POWER
PIC32MX470F
1
1
L
1 µF
01110131
Stereo Audio Delay/
DSP Board 24bit/96kHz
100nF
GND
MIC
IN
GND
VR1 VR2
10k
5V SUPPLY OPTION
DELAY 2
DELAY 1
100nF
+
220pF
DEFEAT
1 µF
1 µF
100 µF
47k
47k
GND
K A
VR4
100nF
VR3
0Ω
470 µF
OUT
47k
IN
LED1
POWER
+3.3V
IC2
WM8731L
(REPLACES REG1)
REG3 LM3940IT-3.3
680Ω
+4-6V
10 µF
Link
Link
siliconchip.com.au
VR6
VR5
100Ω
100Ω
+
100nF
was intended at the time for future
1k
470 µF
REG3
CON2
CON1
expansion. The micro enables a weak
CON3 DC
LM3940IT-3.3
1k
4-6V
internal pull-up on this pin which is
OUTPUT
INPUT
+
connected to the ring terminal of the
5k
5k
microphone input.
100 µF
Since the microphone input is mono,
ALTERNATIVE SUPPLY ARRANGEMENT FOR 4-6V DC
when a mono plug is inserted, this will
short the ring and sleeve terminals. The Fig.7: follow this PCB parts layout diagram to install the parts for the 4-6V power
sleeve is connected to ground and so supply option. Note that D1 must be changed to a 1N5819 Schottky type.
AUX1 is pulled low. The micro mutes
the input for half a second when this diode (D1) is replaced with a 1N5819 viding a delay and operating in echo/
input changes state. If, after this period, Schottky diode since the latter has a reverb mode. So the same hardware
the input is low then the microphone much lower forward voltage.
can fulfill either role.
input is selected. Otherwise, the line
This gives a minimum operating
Either way, you will need to program
input is used.
voltage of around 3.6V, so if you the micro with the revised firmware
Thus if a microphone is plugged power the unit from a Li-ion or Li-Po (ie, 0111013B.hex) which can be
in, the unit automatically switches to cell, the cell will be pretty much fully downloaded (free for subscribers) from
that as the signal source and when it discharged before the circuit ceases the SILICON CHIP website. If you buy
is removed, it automatically switches normal operation (in practice, it will a pre-programmed chip, it will come
back to the line inputs. Because the probably operate down to at least 3.3V with this version.
microphone input is mono, the same but without supply regulation).
Basically, it’s just a matter of first
signal is sent to both audio output
Note that while this arrangement building the PCB as described in the
channels.
allows the unit to run off lower input November 2013 article. You then
voltages, damage may occur if more simply add the extra parts to the PCB
5V/ battery operation
than 7V is applied, even briefly. So for the microphone and/or headphone
The power supply for the unit is if using a plugpack with this new
options and complete the wiring as
based on a series polarity protection arrangement, be sure to measure its shown in Fig.4.
diode (D1) and an LM317 regulator actual unloaded output voltage rather
Don’t forget to link the appropriate
(REG1) configured to provide a 3.3V than relying on its nominal rating. A pins on CON7 to enable echo or reverb
output. This requires an input voltage 5V unregulated plugpack could easily
mode. Link pins 3 & 4 for echo mode
of 6V or more (preferably 7.5-12V) to put out more than 7V at light load.
(use a shorting jumper), or pins 3 & 5
ensure proper output regulation.
for reverb mode (use a 3-way female
However, as stated in November Building it
header with the outside terminals
2013, it’s possible to reconfigure the
The Stereo Echo & Reverb Unit is linked).
unit to run from 3.8-6.5V. This makes built on the same PCB as the DualIf you want to run the unit from a
it suitable for use with USB power Channel Audio Delay (November 4-6V supply, then build the power sup(4.25-5.5V), a single Li-ion or Li-Po 2013), which is available from the ply section as shown above in Fig.7.
cell, or four standard cells (alkaline SILICON CHIP online shop. We can also Don’t forget that diode D1 (near switch
or rechargeable).
supply all the SMD parts including S1) must be a 1N5819 Schottky type.
This alternative power supply ar- the pre-programmed microcontroller,
Fig.5 shows the revised front and
rangement is shown in Fig.6 and the CODEC and ceramic chip capacitors.
rear panels and these can be used as
parts layout diagram of Fig.7. BasicalNote that the some of the new fea- drilling templates for the extra holes
ly, an LM3940IT-3.3 fixed low-dropout tures, such as the microphone input required for the pots and the stereo
regulator (REG3) is used instead of the option and headphone output, can also jack sockets. Note that the headphone
LM317T, along with a couple of wire be used for the delay function.
volume pot (VR7) is mounted directly
links to get power to it. In addition,
In fact, once the unit is completed, on the front panel rather than on the
SC
the 1N4004 reverse polarity protection it can be easily switched between pro- PCB.
February 2014 35
Rubidium
RUBIDIUM DISCHARGE LAMP
IN TEMP-CONTROLLED OVEN
FILTER CELL
Rb-87
795nm,
780nm
PHOTO
DETECTOR
OUTPUT
RESONANCE CAVITY
(6.834, 682,612,8GHz)
Rb-87
780nm
PHOTODETECTOR
6.834GHz
RESONANCE
CELL
MICROWAVE FREQUENCY
ANALOG
TO DIGITAL
CONVERTER
Frequency Standards
Rb-85
STEP RECOVERY DIODE
WHICH MULTIPLIES VCO
FREQUENCY BY 19
(19 x 359.72 = 6384.68)
‘PHYSICS PACKAGE’
LAMP EXCITING
OSCILLATOR
(~150MHz)
SYNTHESISER
WITH OUTPUT
AT ~359.72MHz
DIGITAL TO
ANALOG
CONVERTER
How they’ve shrunk in both size & cost!
‘FINE TUNING’
PHASE ERROR CORRECTING
MAGNETIC COIL
OR ‘DISCIPLINING’ VOLTAGE
MICRO
CONTROLLER
DIGITAL TO
ANALOG
CONVERTER
LOW NOISE 10MHz
CRYSTAL OSCILLATOR
IN TEMPERATURE
CONTROLLED OVEN
10MHz OUTPUT
(±5 x 10 -11)
Like their better known cesium-beam based cousins, rubidiumvapour frequency standards (AKA ‘atomic clocks’) have shrunk
considerably in both size and cost since they were first developed
in the early 1960s. In fact, rubidium standards have shrunk much
further than the cesium type and are now down to the same size as
an oven-controlled quartz oscillator or ‘OCXO’. Their cost has also
dropped far below that of a cesium standard, too.
By JIM ROWE
A
LTHOUGH THEY didn’t appear
in practical form until a few years
after the first cesium-beam frequency
standards, rubidium-vapour standards
proved to be much more suited for
making smaller and more portable
frequency references. This was partly
due to the rapid developments in microwave technology that took place
The smallest Rb-vapour standard to
date: Quartzlock’s E10-MRX, shown
here actual size.
36 Silicon Chip
during and after World War 2, along
with the dramatic developments in
solid-state technology that happened
at much the same time.
There was also a chicken and egg
effect. When both military and commercial communications began to
move into the UHF and microwave
spectrum, this generated a huge market
for low-cost yet highly accurate frequency standards – and manufacturers
of rubidium-vapour standards were
able to take advantage of this demand.
The growth in demand not only continued but almost became explosive
as mobile phones first went ‘cellular’
and then morphed into CDMA and its
related digital technologies. Of course,
the development of the internet and
digital data communications played
a major role too, as the need for accurate frequency and timing references
multiplied exponentially.
The net result of these developments is that by the year 2000, there
were many hundreds of thousands of
compact, low cost Rb-vapour frequency
standards in use all over the world.
There were also many different firms
manufacturing them, such as Quartz
lock in the UK (www.quartzlock.
com), Stanford Research Systems in
California, USA (www.thinksrs.com),
Symmetricom Inc, also in California
(www.symmetricom.com) and FEI
Communications Inc of Mitchell Field,
New York (www.freqelec.com).
Nowadays we’ve reached the stage
where you can buy very small Rb-vapour frequency standards brand new
for less than $2500. For example, the
Quartzlock E10-MRX subminiature
unit is currently available for $A2210
plus GST (or $2431) from Quartzlock’s
Australian representatives Trio Test
& Measurement (www.triotest.com.
au), while the Stanford Research
Systems PRS10 can be ordered online
from their website for $US1645 plus
$US224.20 for shipping and handling.
But that ain’t all, folks. A quick
scout around the web – and on eBay in
particular – discovered many different
‘used’ Rb-vapour references available
for less than $US250 and as little as
$US99.00 (plus postage etc). Most of
siliconchip.com.au
How Rubidium Frequency Standards Have Shrunk In Size
100,000
Above: used FE-5680A Rb-vapour
standards are available on eBay from
China for less than $150 including
postage.
these were on offer from China and
appear to be ‘reclaimed’ from surplus
telecom gear – perhaps exported from
the USA or Europe.
There were many different FE5680A units from FEI Communications, plus a few FRK, FRS-A, FRS-C
and LPRO-101 units from Symmetricom (the latest incarnation of Efratom,
which became Ball and then Datum).
Because they are ‘pre-loved’, these
very low priced Rubidium frequency
references are a bit of a gamble. That’s
because the Rb-vapour discharge tubes
used in these references have a relatively limited working lifetime – the
latest generation tubes have a rated
lifetime of 20 years, while the earlier
generations were found to have somewhat less. So it’s quite possible that at
least some of the el-cheapo units were
junked because their RB-vapour tubes
had reached the nominal end of their
working life.
But before you dismiss the idea
of buying one of these ‘el cheapo’
frequency references, consider this:
on the internet I also found some information suggesting that it’s possible
to ‘rejuvenate’ tired old Rb-vapour
discharge tubes – to bring them back
to almost ‘as new’ condition. So buying one of them might not be so risky
after all.
Anyway, to cut this introductory
preamble short, here’s an admission:
I recently purchased one of the used
FE-5680A units myself, with the idea
of seeing how easy it is to get going.
Hopefully, I may be able to tell you
siliconchip.com.au
Volume (cm3)
10,000
1,000
100
10
1
1960
1970
1980
1990
2000
2010
2020
Fig.1: Rb-vapour frequency standards have dramatically dropped in volume
since their development in 1960. The first units were about 91,000cc, while
the Quartzlock E10-MRX (facing page) is only 65cc – quite a drop.
more about this later in the year.
For the present though, let’s have
a look at how rubidium-vapour frequency references or ‘atomic clocks’
actually work.
How they work
First of all, forget any thoughts
about ‘atomic clocks’ (of either the
Cs-beam or Rb-vapour type) having
anything to do with nuclear power.
They don’t – not at all. While they do
involve atoms of cesium or rubidium
gaining or losing energy, this is purely
in terms of changes in the energy levels
of electrons in the outermost levels of
the atoms.
There are no changes inside the nuclei of the atoms. Just electrons jumping from one energy level to another, as
in normal electrical conduction. And
to brush up on high school physics and
chemistry, rubidium is a silvery-white
metallic element in the alkali metal
group. It has the atomic number 37
and an atomic mass of 85.4678. It’s also
highly reactive, oxidising rapidly in air
or water (like sodium, potassium and
cesium). Rubidium also has a very low
melting point; just 39.3°C (102.74°F).
Naturally occurring rubidium is a
mixture of two isotopes: Rb-85, which
is very stable and Rb-87 which is
slightly radioactive (with a half-life of
48.8 x 109 years). The isotopes are usually found mixed in the proportions
72.2% of Rb-85 to 27.8% of Rb-87. As
the only difference between the two
isotopes is the number of neutrons
in their nuclei, this explains why the
official atomic mass of natural Rb is
given as 85.4678.
Rubidium atoms in both of these
natural isotopes have only a single
electron in their outermost energy
levels (ie, a single valence electron).
But in the unexcited or ‘ground’ state
of both isotopes, this valence electron
can occupy one of two very slightly
separated energy levels – depending
on the electron’s spin.
The operation of Rb-vapour frequency standards takes advantage of
the fact that the two ‘hyperfine-split’
ground state energy levels of Rb-87
atoms differ by an amount (28μeV)
corresponding exactly to the amount of
energy carried by a microwave photon
February 2014 37
RUBIDIUM DISCHARGE LAMP
IN TEMP-CONTROLLED OVEN
FILTER CELL
Rb-87
795nm,
780nm
Rb-87
780nm
PHOTODETECTOR
6.834GHz
RESONANCE
CELL
Rb-85
ANALOG
TO DIGITAL
CONVERTER
SYNTHESISER
WITH OUTPUT
AT ~359.72MHz
DIGITAL TO
ANALOG
CONVERTER
‘FINE TUNING’
PHASE ERROR CORRECTING
MAGNETIC COIL
OR ‘DISCIPLINING’ VOLTAGE
MICRO
CONTROLLER
MICROWAVE FREQUENCY
STEP RECOVERY DIODE
WHICH MULTIPLIES VCO
FREQUENCY BY 19
(19 x 359.72 = 6384.68)
‘PHYSICS PACKAGE’
LAMP EXCITING
OSCILLATOR
(~150MHz)
PHOTO
DETECTOR
OUTPUT
RESONANCE CAVITY
(6.834, 682,612,8GHz)
DIGITAL TO
ANALOG
CONVERTER
LOW NOISE 10MHz
CRYSTAL OSCILLATOR
IN TEMPERATURE
CONTROLLED OVEN
10MHz OUTPUT
(±5 x 10 -11)
Fig.2: this generic block diagram for a fairly recent Rubidium-vapour frequency reference shows how these units
work. Earlier units, like the Efratom FRK and the original FE-5680A, had an analog frequency locking loop and
synthesiser but worked in much the same way.
at a frequency of 6.834,682,612,8GHz .
So if a photon of this frequency
meets an Rb-87 atom where the valence electron is in the lower ground
state energy level, it can ‘bump’ the
electron into the upper level. Conversely, if the Rb-87 atom has its
valence electron in the upper ground
state energy level and ‘relaxes’ (say as
the result of an applied magnetic field),
it emits a photon of this frequency.
As it happens, atoms of the Rb-85
isotope also have two hyperfine-split
ground state energy levels for the valence electron. However, quite fortui-
tously, the lower of these two energy
levels in the Rb-85 isotope is almost
exactly the same as the upper ground
state energy level of the Rb-87 isotope.
Rb-vapour frequency standards also
take advantage of this coincidence, as
we will see shortly.
Now take a look at the block diagram
of Fig.2, which shows the typical
configuration inside an Rb-vapour
frequency standard. At its heart is the
so-called ‘physics package’ at upper
left, which essentially functions as a
very high ‘Q’ filter, tuned to the Rb87 ‘hyperfine transition’ frequency
Left: the PRS10 Rbvapour frequency
standard from
Stanford Research
Systems. It measures
just 50 x 75 x 102mm
and can be purchased
(new) for about $2200
including freight.
38 Silicon Chip
of 6.83468GHz. By having this filter
as part of a feedback loop based
around the low-noise 10MHz voltage
controlled crystal oscillator at lower
right, the frequency of the oscillator
is ‘disciplined’ to remain at exactly
10MHz ±5 parts in 10-11.
As you can see, there are two main
components inside the physics package. One is the rubidium discharge
lamp at the left end, while the other
is the resonance cell and microwave
cavity at the right end. Although a
third ‘filter cell’ is shown between
the two in Fig.2, many of the newer
Rb-vapour frequency standards have
a simplified configuration where the
filter cell is effectively combined with
the resonance cell.
The discharge lamp on the left is
filled with a mixture of Rb-87 enriched
vapour and a noble gas such as krypton. This gas mixture is excited by RF
energy from an oscillator operating
at about 150MHz, via both a pair of
electrodes and a coil wound around
the lamp.
As a result of this excitation, a discharge plasma is established inside
the lamp and it emits light in the ruby
red part of the spectrum with two peak
wavelengths at 795nm and 780nm.
These correspond to the valence electrons in excited Rb-87 atoms dropping
from an excited energy level to one
or the other of the two hyperfine split
ground state levels.
The light from the discharge lamp
siliconchip.com.au
then passes through the filter cell,
which contains Rb-85 vapour with
its atoms mainly in one of their two
hyperfine ground states. As a result of
the coincidence of the lower hyperfine
energy level for Rb-85 with the upper
hyperfine energy level for Rb-87, the
Rb-85 vapour effectively absorbs the
light photons corresponding to the
Rb-87 atoms dropping to their upper
hyperfine energy level.
So the light emerging from the filter
cell mainly consists of photons corresponding to the Rb-87 atoms dropping from their excited states to their
lower hyperfine energy level. In other
words, the filter cell removes most of
the 795nm light photons and leaves
mainly those with a wavelength of
780nm to pass into the resonance cell.
Now the resonance cell is filled with
Rb-87 vapour, together with a ‘buffer’
gas. When the atoms of Rb-87 in the
cell are in their ground state, there will
be exactly the same number of valence
electrons occupying each of the two
hyperfine energy levels. However,
when the 780nm light photons coming
from the filter cell pass through the
vapour, many of the photons interact
with the Rb-87 atoms, which absorb
their energy and shift their valence
electrons up to an excited energy level.
These excited atoms quickly relax
again, dropping down to one of the
ground state hyperfine levels. The nett
result is that a ‘population imbalance’
is created between the two hyperfine
energy levels: more electrons will be
in the upper hyperfine level than in
the lower level. This interaction of the
780nm photons with the electrons in
the Rb-87 vapour atoms is known as
‘optical pumping’.
Metal cavity
As you can see, the resonance
cell is housed inside a metal cavity
and its dimensions are arranged to
make it resonate electromagnetically
at 6.834,682,612,8GHz. RF energy is
fed into the cavity to excite it at this
frequency, using the kind of system
shown in Fig.2. A frequency synthesiser driven by the 10MHz crystal
oscillator produces an RF output at
close to 359.72MHz, and this RF is
fed to a step recovery diode inside the
resonance cell and cavity.
The diode effectively multiplies the
359.72MHz signal by 19 times. So it
provides enough energy at the nineteenth harmonic of the 359.72MHz
siliconchip.com.au
Two views of the Quartzlock E10-MRO Rb-vapour frequency standard. At
top is the outside view showing the DB-9 connector (used for most external
connections), plus the SMA connector for the 10MHz output at upper right.
The lower view shows the inside, with the Rb ‘physics package’ at the rear.
signal to excite the resonance cell at
(19 x 359.72) = 6834.68MHz.
The effect of this electromagnetic
energy in the resonance cell is to cause
many of the Rb-87 valence electrons to
effectively transfer from the upper hyperfine energy level down to the lower
level. This in turn makes it easier for
the 780nm photons passing through
the cell to re-excite the Rb-87 atoms
once again, bumping their valence
electrons up to an ‘excited’ level so that
they can ‘relax’ again and fall back to
one of the hyperfine levels.
The result of this fairly complex
interaction is that when the RF energy
fed into the resonance cell is at the
exact frequency which corresponds
for transfers between the two hyperfine
levels of Rb-87, there are fewer of the
780nm photons emerging from the rear
of the resonance cell and reaching the
photodetector to its right. At frequencies that are either higher or lower than
this, more of the photons pass straight
through to reach the photodetector.
The overall effect of the rubidium
physics package is therefore to provide a very accurate or high-Q filter,
allowing the frequency of the 10MHz
crystal oscillator to be ‘disciplined’ via
a control voltage (applied to a varactor
diode) to the exact frequency where
the RF energy fed to the resonance cell
results in maximum absorption of the
780nm photons.
Since the 6.834GHz energy is derived from the 10MHz oscillator and
hence locked to it, this means that the
frequency of the oscillator is held very
accurately to 10.000MHz (±5 parts in
10-11).
So that’s the basic idea. However
you might already be wondering how
the frequency control feedback loop
in Fig.2 can zero in to the correct
frequency, if the RF energy fed into
the resonance cell and cavity remains
locked to a single frequency. How can it
tell when everything is tuned for a dip
or notch in the photodetector output?
That’s done by introducing a small
February 2014 39
Milestones in Atomic Clock Evolution
1944: The concept of atomic clocks developed by Isidor Rabi of Columbia University
(USA). Rabi wins a Nobel Prize.
1948: Harold Lyons and his associates
at the US National Bureau of Standards
(NBS) achieve the first atomic frequency
standard, using the resonance of ammonia
at 23.870GHz.
1951: French physicist Alfred Kastler, working on a combination of optical resonance
and magnetic resonance, develops the
technique of ‘optical pumping’. This played
a key role in the development of masers,
lasers and Rubidium frequency standards.
Kastler was awarded a Nobel Prize for this
work in 1966.
1954: J. R. Zacharias proposes the idea of
an ‘atomic fountain’ clock, although this does
not become feasible until 1989.
1955: Louis Essen and Jack Parry, working
at the National Physical Laboratory (NPL) in
Teddington (UK), achieve the first working
cesium-beam atomic frequency standard.
1956: The first commercial cesium-beam
frequency standard, the Atomichron, was
developed by Zacharias, Richard Daly and
Joseph Holloway at the National Company
of Malden, Massachusetts (USA), working
together with MIT. Between 1956 and 1960,
about 50 Atomichrons were delivered, mainly
to US Government agencies. They were very
large and bulky devices.
1958: P. L. Bender, E. C. Beaty and A. R.
Chi, working at the US Naval Research Laboratory, develop the concept of using optical
detection of narrow Rb-87 hyperfine absorption lines, and also the idea of using Rb-85
vapour to filter out one of the hyperfine lines.
Both concepts were the key to producing
amount of FM (frequency modulation) into the output of the frequency
synthesiser, so it swings cyclically
above and below the correct frequency
– usually at a low audio rate of about
70Hz. The amplifier following the
photodetector is arranged to filter the
detector’s output and deliver an output voltage that’s proportional to the
second harmonic of the modulating
frequency, at 140Hz.
It turns out that this second harmonic signal peaks at the exact frequency corresponding to the notch in
the photodetector’s DC output.
As you can see, most modern Rb-vapour standards use a microcontroller
to ensure that the 10MHz oscillator
40 Silicon Chip
Rb-vapour frequency standards.
1960: R. J. Carpenter and his colleagues,
and also M. Arditi, developed prototype
rubidium-vapour oscillators.
1960-65: Now at Varian Associates in
Beverly, Massachusetts, Joseph Holloway
worked with Richard Lacey and Norman
Ramsey to develop a cesium-beam tube
only 16” (406mm) long. This was offered
as a component to firms considering the
manufacture of compact commercial Csbeam frequency standards or ‘clocks’. Then
in 1964, a 12” (305mm) long Cs-beam tube
was developed for Hewlett-Packard, to use
in their first Cs-beam frequency standard
(the HP5060A). This became famous as the
‘flying clock’.
1964: The first operational Rubidium frequency standard was developed by P. Davidovits and R. Novick.
1967: HP acquires the manufacturing
rights for Varian’s cesium-beam tubes. Also
in 1967, the 13th General Conference on
Weights and Measures defined the second
as “the duration of 9,192,631,770 periods
of the radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of the
ground state of the Cesium 133 atom”.
1970: Matt Zepler, working for Plessey
at Roke Manor in Hampshire (UK), develops an Rb-vapour oscillator that is small
enough to fit as a component module in a
2U rack-mounting case. At about the same
time, KVARZ, an institute in Gorky (Russia),
developed a compact Rb-vapour frequency
reference that was small enough to be fitted
into mobile and airborne equipment.
1971: Hugo Fruhof and his team at Efratom
Electronik GmbH in Munich (Germany)
remains locked. The microcontroller
monitors the photodetector output via
an ADC (analog-to-digital converter)
and applies the phase error correction
or ‘disciplining’ voltage to the oscillator’s varactor via a DAC (digital-toanalog converter).
The micro is usually programmable
in terms of the feedback gain and time
constant, etc. In most cases, this can
be done from a PC via an RS-232C
serial cable.
Referring back to Fig.2, you may
be wondering about that second DAC
controlled by the micro and the magnetic coil it drives – wound around
the resonance cell inside the physics
package. What is that for?
develop the FRK – a very small Rb-vapour
oscillator. Fruhof and Efratom then moved to
the USA, where they began manufacturing
a series of compact Rb-vapour frequency
standards – evolving into the ‘FRS’ units
which became an industry standard. The FRS
units measured only 4” x 3” x 2” (102 x 76 x
51mm). Efratom was acquired by Ball, then
Datum and then Symmetricom.
1989: S. Chu, M. Kasevich and their colleagues at Stanford University in California
demonstrate a Cs-fountain technique for
measuring atomic resonance. Shortly afterwards, the first primary frequency standard
based on this approach was developed by a
group at the Laboratoire Primare du Temps
et Frequences (LPTF) in France.
1992: Leon Cutler and Robin Giffard of HP
Labs develop the much-improved HP 5071A
Cs-beam clock, smaller and lighter than its
predecessors but still measuring 524 x 425
x 133mm and weighing 30kg.
2000: Hewlett-Packard splits into two: HP
(computers and printers) and Agilent Technologies (test and measuring instruments).
The Precision Time and Frequency division
becomes part of Agilent.
2005: Agilent sells its cesium frequency
standard line to Symmetricom of San Jose,
California.
2012: Dr Thomas Cao, Clive Green and Dr
Cosmo Little, working at Quartzlock (UK) Ltd
in Devon, England, develop an ultra-miniature
Rb-vapour clock measuring only 51 x 51 x
25mm and weighing less than 150 grams –
the E10-MRX.
2013: Symmetricom of San Jose sold to
Microsemi Inc., a semiconductor firm in Aliso
Viejo (Orange County, Southern California).
While the energy difference between the two hyperfine ground state
levels of the Rb-87 isotope is very
stable at the value corresponding
to 6.834,682,612,8GHz, it can vary
slightly in response to changes in the
ambient magnetic field.
As a result, the resonance cavity
and the magnetic coil wound around
it must be housed in a mu-metal
shielding box to minimise external
perturbations. The current through
the magnetic coil is then adjusted by
the micro to bring the apparent Rb-87
hyperfine transition frequency to the
correct figure of 6.834GHz. The adjustment range is quite small – about ±2 x
10-9, which is why the function of the
siliconchip.com.au
magnetic coil is usually described as
for ‘fine tuning’.
But wait – there’s more!
Now while the accuracy and stability of these rubidium-vapour frequency
standards is much better than that
of a temperature-controlled crystal
osc
illator or ‘TCXO’, they’re still not
as good as a cesium-beam standard.
That’s why Cs-beam standards are
regarded as the primary references for
time and frequency, with Rb-vapour
standards relegated to secondary
status.
However, nowadays there is a fairly
simple way to achieve greater accuracy
from a Rb-vapour frequency standard.
This is by using the 1pps pulses from
a GPS receiver to ‘discipline’ the Rbvapour standard. This allows an Rbvapour frequency standard to achieve
almost exactly the same accuracy and
stability as a Cs-beam standard.
As you may be aware, the 1pps
pulses from a GPS receiver have excellent long-term accuracy and stability,
because they are locked to Cs-beam
standards in the GPS satellites. However they vary significantly in the short
term, due to both propagation changes
Two views inside the SRS PRS10 Rb-vapour reference. On the left, only the
outer mu-metal shield has been removed, showing two of the four PCBs.
On the right, the three upper PCBs have been removed, to show the Rb
discharge lamp and microwave absorption cell assembly.
and jitter in the GPS receiver circuitry.
On the other hand, Rb-vapour
standards have excellent short and
medium-term stability, with a low
‘ageing’ drift rate (approximately 5
parts in 10-10 per year). So disciplining an Rb-vapour standard with the
1pps pulses from a GPS receiver (over
a significant period of time) provides
the short and medium-term stability of
an Rb-vapour standard with the longterm accuracy of a Cs-beam standard.
It also avoids needing to have the
Rb-vapour standard recalibrated every
couple of years, to compensate for its
ageing drift rate. Many modern Rb-
vapour frequency standards have the
ability to lock to external GPS-derived
1pps pulses, while some have a GPS
receiver built in. Either approach
allows them to achieve this near Csbeam performance.
For example, the Quartzlock E10GPS unit, after being disciplined to GPS
1pps pulses for 24 hours, is specified to
have a frequency accuracy of less than
one part in 10-12, with a short-term
stability of less than three parts in 10-11
over a 1s period, less than one part in
10-11 over a 10s period, or less than
three parts in 10-12 over a 100s period.
SC
That’s very impressive!
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Silicon Chip Magazine February 2014
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February 2014 41
Build a state-of-the-art
Mini Entertainment
Have you wanted to build a really good quality stereo mantel radio
with FM/AM reception and the capability for playing music from
a flash drive, iPod, iPhone etc? Or perhaps you have lusted over a
Bose Wave Music system but have been thwarted by the high price?
Well, there is another, much cheaper way and it is based on a goodquality car FM/AM radio/CD player.
S
CHIP readers love building
electronic projects and from time
to time we get requests to design a
project for a good quality mantel radio.
However, over the years it has only
taken us a few minutes’ consideration
to come to the conclusion that designing an FM/AM stereo radio of reasonable performance would simply not be
a viable proposition when compared
to the plethora of equipment available
from retail stores.
The most recent request along these
lines had us thinking differently
though, especially when considering
ILICON
42 Silicon Chip
that most such consumer equipment
has facilities for playing music from
an iPod, iPhone, Android phone,
flash drive or whatever. Presumably,
any mantel radio project we designed
would also need those facilities. Of
course, that makes a SILICON CHIP
design along these lines even more
complicated and less viable.
But then we harked back to our first
issue, in November 1987 when we
used a AM/FM stereo radio-cassette
player as the basis of a good quality
mantel radio. Then, as now, people
hankered after the good sound of an
old valve radio instead of the restricted
sound from tiny speakers in minuscule cabinets. And then as now, we
concluded that using a car radio and
car radio speakers was the way to go.
Now though, because of the way
that consumer electronics has become
so cheap, you get far more value; incredible value, in fact. Back in 1987
we could have purchased a no-name
AM/FM stereo radio-cassette player
for under $80. However, on that occasion we elected to use a top-of-the
line Pioneer AM stereo/FM stereo
radio cassette player we had on hand.
siliconchip.com.au
The Mini Entertainment Unit
is built into a timber cabinet
made from 12mm thick MDF.
It uses a Sony CDX1-GT620UI
FM/AM radio/CD player and
a pair of Pioneer TS-G1044R
4-inch coaxial speakers to
deliver good quality sound.
Left: the Sony
CDX1-GT620UI
even comes with
a remote control.
By LEO SIMPSON
Centre
It would have cost many hundreds of
dollars to buy new.
Sony radio
This time around we bought a
Sony CDX1-GT620UI FM/AM radio/
CD player for under $70. It can play
discs in a number of formats and you
can plug in a flash drive, MP3 player,
iPod, iPhone or the auxiliary plug from
an Android smart phone; no adaptor
is required. It also comes with its own
infrared remote control which seems a
silly idea for a car radio but ideal for
the application we wanted to use it for.
Furthermore, you can control it via
your iPhone after downloading an app;
something which wasn’t even thought
of in 1987.
As well, the Sony can drive front
and rear speakers, incorporates an
equaliser for a variety of sound quality settings and has outputs to drive
an external 4-channel amplifier and
powered subwoofer. In short, it has
all the facilities you would expect in
a premium car sound system.
Because the radio is designed for
use in a car, it has far better RF performance than any domestic radio and
has the advantage that you can store
all your favourite stations, available at
the push of a button. In fact, its overall
performance ratings would probably
be better than many typical domestic
music systems costing many hundreds
of dollars.
And while it might be controversial
to compare its overall sound quality
to that of a Bose Wave Music System,
it is a great deal cheaper and does not
require an external adaptor in order to
hook up an iPhone or iPod. (The current model Bose Wave Music system
with AM/FM radio/ CD player retails
for $699. The top-of-the-line model
with DAB+ reception has an RRP of
$799).
In essence, all you need do to build a
complete music system with the Sony
car radio (or any other car radio) is
provide loudspeakers and a suitable
DC supply.
Buying the parts
Before going further, we should
discuss where to purchase the various components. While you will find
that there are lots of on-line sellers of
car radio equipment, virtually all of
it sourced from Asia, we found it was
quicker, more convenient and actually
cheaper to buy from our local JB Hi-Fi
store. At the store, you can physically
examine and listen to what you are
buying and there are often short-term
in-store or website specials available.
In the case of the Sony radio we purchased, it had been reduced twice and
was way below its recommended retail
price of $148.00.
The same comments apply to the
loudspeakers we purchased. Initially,
we purchased Pioneer 6-inch (150mm)
4-ohm coaxial speakers from JB Hi-Fi
but when we began to draw up the
cabinet plans, we realised that they
would make the make the cabinet too
bulky. It was a simple matter to go back
to JB Hi-Fi and swap them for a pair
of slightly more expensive Pioneer
TS-G1044R 4-inch (100mm) 4-ohm
coaxial speakers, at $49 for the pair.
These come with separate 130mm
decorative surrounds and mesh grilles
which still makes them a little more
bulky than we would have preferred.
Note that exchanging goods purchased on-line, particularly from
overseas sellers, may be inconvenient,
costly or simply not possible.
The mesh grille on the Pioneer
speakers is desirable for most applications because there is a considerable
risk that the coaxial tweeter or woofer
The Sony CDX1-GT620UI FM/AM
radio/CD player (left) features a
detachable control panel while the
Pioneer TS-G1044R 4-inch speakers
are supplied with decorative plastic
surrounds and steel mesh grilles.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 43
This view shows the general layout
inside the cabinet. The radio is held
in place using a curtain bracket and a
machine screw, while the switchmode
power supply is secured using doublesided foam adhesive. The antenna
(brown wire) runs up one side of the
cabinet and along the top and is held
using gaffer tape.
These two photos show the cabinet under construction. The holes in the front
panels for the radio and the two speakers must be made before gluing and
clamping the assembly together.
cone could easily be damaged in normal use.
If you want a more compact speaker,
you could consider the Response
4-inch 4-ohm coax speakers from
Jaycar (Cat. CS-2310). These are quite
good performers but in their case, the
detachable surround and grille does
not fully protect the woofer cone.
Power supply
The power supply can be as simple
as a DC plugpack rated to deliver between 13V and 14.4V at 1A or more.
The upper limit of 14.4V is the maximum which is supplied to a car radio
in normal use but they are probably
designed for a maximum DC voltage
of about 15V.
44 Silicon Chip
However, standard DC plugpacks
may not be satisfactory as there might
be too much hum and noise in the resulting sound. By all means try using
a DC plugpack if you have one suitable
but make sure that it delivers no more
than 14.4V DC. Many DC plugpacks are
quite poorly regulated, which means
that their peak output voltage may be
way above their nominal rating. For
example, one unit I tried was rated at
12V DC but actually delivered around
19V with light loading.
The power supply we actually used
was a switchmode unit rated for 12V
DC at 2.8A. This proved to be noisefree as far as the radio’s sound quality
was concerned while delivering more
than enough power (actually very loud
in a typical room) for normal listening.
This might be a little surprising,
given that the Sony radio is specified
to deliver up to 52 watts into four
channels. Even if this is a music power
rating, it would require far more than
2.8A for full power. We did not test
its maximum power rating but we
would assume that it would pull at
least 10A when driven to full power.
Fortunately, for normal listening a
power supply capable of delivering
between 1A and 2A will be more than
adequate.
If there is too much hum or your
plugpack’s DC output is simply too
high, you will need to feed it via a regulator module. The one we suggest is
our MiniReg adjustable regulator from
the December 2011 issue. This was
based on an LM317T regulator delivering up to 1.5A but for this application,
we suggest changing the LM317T to an
LM338T which is rated to deliver up
to 5A. The accompanying panel has
all the details on the MiniReg.
Making the cabinet
This is the hardest and most timeconsuming part of this project. Rather
than producing a straightforward recsiliconchip.com.au
tangular cabinet as we did originally,
this time we wanted to produce a
unit with more styling and possibly
smaller. We had the Bose Wave Music
system in mind as our inspiration. This
unit comes in a surprisingly compact
cabinet (371 x 106 x 218mm – W x
H x D) and with a curved front. As
already noted, the size of the speakers we selected, combined with the
depth of the Sony radio’s case meant
that our cabinet would inevitably be
considerably larger.
We also decided that making a
cabinet with a curved front would
be far too difficult for the majority of
our readers and would add complications when mounting the radio and
the speaker themselves. Therefore we
decided on a cabinet which has the
speakers angled back to make it more
compact and also to improve the apparent stereo separation.
The resulting cabinet was made
MASSIVE
ME R
SUM LE
SA S
END H
C
MARST
31
siliconchip.com.au
Packing bonded acetate fibre in behind each speaker significantly improves
the bass when combined with a close-fitting back panel (below).
The rear panel is made from 12mm-thick MDF and
has a stiffener glued along the horizontal centre-line
made from 12 x 12mm DAR pine timber.
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February 2014 45
Fitting A Regulator To
The Plugpack Supply
D2
K
CON2
+
INPUT
17-20V
DC
D1
REG1 LM3 38 T
K
A
–
ADJ
A
1000 µF
25V
SC
K
VR1
C2
2k
C3
K
K
A
100 µF
25V
10µF
25V
LM338T
LED
D1–D3: 1N4004
OUTPUT
14.4V DC
–
D3
A
λ
A
2011
R1
110Ω
C1
K
ADJUST VR! FOR
14.4V OUTPUT
CON4
+
OUT
IN
2.2k
LED1
A
OUT
ADJ
OUT
IN
MINIREG ADJUSTABLE SUPPLY
Fig.1: the MiniReg circuit uses an LM338T adjustable regulator. D1 provides
reverse polarity protection, while trimpot VR1 adjusts the output voltage.
I
F THERE IS too much hum or your
plugpack’s DC output is simply
too high, you will need to feed it
to the radio via a regulator module.
The one we suggest is our MiniReg
Adjustable Supply from the December 2011 issue. This was based on
an LM317T regulator delivering up
to 1.5A and is accommodated on
a small PCB measuring only 35 x
38mm. For this application though,
we suggest changing the LM317T to
an LM338T which is rated to deliver
up to 5A.
We are reproducing the main details of the regulator here – see Fig.1.
The LM338T adjustable regulator
provides a nominal 1.25V between
its OUT and ADJ (adjust) terminals.
We say it is a “nominal 1.25V” because, depending on the device, it
can be anywhere between 1.2V and
1.3V. This doesn’t really matter
though, because we can adjust the
output voltage to the required level
using trimpot VR1.
The output voltage from REG1 is
set by the 110Ω resistor (R1) between
its OUT and ADJ terminals and by
the resistance between the ADJ terminal and ground. This works as
follows: by using a 110Ω resistor and
assuming an exact 1.25V reference,
the current flow through the resistor
is set at 11.36mA. This current also
flows through trimpot VR1.
This means that if VR1 is set to
a value of 1.15kΩ, then the voltage
across this trimpot will be 1.15kΩ x
11.36mA = 13.06V. This voltage is
then added to the regulator’s 1.25V
reference to derive the output voltage – in this case 14.31V.
In practice, the current flow out
from a sheet of 12mm-thick medium
density fibreboard (MDF) measuring
600 x 900mm. The two panels for the
speakers are angled back by 20°.
While this might seem like a fairly
simple design, it proved to be quite
a challenge to get all the angled cuts
correct. Ultimately, a certain amount of
planing was required to make sure that
all panels fitted together reasonably
closely. Even then, some wood filler
was required to cover minor blemishes
before the cabinet was sanded and
finished. The finished cabinet dimen-
Circuit details
46 Silicon Chip
of the ADJ terminal also contributes
slightly to the final output voltage.
This current is of the order of 100μA,
so if VR1 is set to 1.16kΩ, this can
add 0.12V to the output, ie, we get
14.43V. In practice, its just a matter
of adjusting VR1 to set the output to
exactly 14.4V.
Diode D1 provides reverse polarity protection. This means that if you
connect the supply voltage around
the wrong way, you cannot do any
damage.
Diode D2 protects the regulator if
the input becomes shorted to ground
while it is powered up. Without D2,
current would attempt to flow back
from the output capacitor through
the regulator to the shorted input
and that could kill it. But D2 becomes forward biased and conducts,
effectively preventing any reverse
current flow through REG1.
Diode D3 is also included to protect REG1. It does this by clamping
the voltage between the ADJ terminal and the OUT & IN terminals in
the event that one of the latter is
shorted to ground.
Finally, capacitors C1 & C2 reduce
ripple and noise by bypassing the IN
(input) and ADJ terminals respectively. C3 prevents regulator oscillation by swamping any low-value
capacitance that may be connected
to this output.
Construction
All the parts for the MiniReg are
mounted on a PCB coded 18112111.
Fig.2 shows the parts layout.
Begin the assembly by installing
the 110Ω resistor (R1) and the three
diodes, making sure the latter are
all orientated correctly (the banded
ends are the cathodes). That done,
install the wire link. This link takes
the place of CON3 as fitted to the
original MiniReg and is installed
because an on/off switch is not required in this application.
The three capacitors can go in
next, again taking care with their
sions are 565 x 177 x 218mm deep (W
x H x D). These dimensions do not
include the speaker escutcheons and
grilles and the radio itself.
Ideally, anyone attempting to produce a cabinet along these lines needs
access to a drop saw or bench saw
siliconchip.com.au
MiniReg Parts List
1 PCB, code 18112111, 35 x
38mm
2 2-way polarised pin headers,
0.1in spacing
1 120 x 140mm aluminium sheet
for heatsink
1 TO-220 insulating washer
1 insulating bush
1 M3 x 100mm machine screw
& nut
1 2kΩ horizontal trimpot
REG1
LM338T
A
1000 µF
VR1
D3
4004
4004
110Ω
D2
D1
10 µF
OUT
1 1 1 1ER CJ
LINK
K
LED1 CON2
17-18V DC –
INPUT +
IN
ADJ
4004
CON4
14.4V DC –
OUTPUT +
100 µF
2.2k
Fig.2: install the parts on the PCB as
shown here. LED1 and its associated
2.2kΩ resistor are optional.
orientation since they are all electrolytics. Follow with the three 2-pin
headers (CON1, CON2 & CON4),
then install the 3-terminal regulator. The latter should be mounted
vertically at full lead length (not
horizontally as shown in the photo),
so that it can later be fastened to a
heatsink.
The PCB assembly can now be
completed by installing LED1 (it
takes the place of CON1 in the December 2011 circuit). This LED is
optional; simply leave it out if you
don’t need it (you can also omit its
series 2.2kΩ resistor).
Above: the original MiniReg. For
this project, mount REG1 vertically
and install LED1 and a link in
place on CON1 & CON3.
SILICONE
WASHER
INSULATING
BUSH
M3 x 10mm
SCREW
Semiconductors
1 LM338T voltage regulator
(REG1)
3 1N4004 power diodes (D1-D3)
1 3mm red LED (LED1, optional)
Capacitors
1 1000μF 25V electrolytic
1 100μF 25V electrolytic
1 10μF 25V electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 110Ω
1 2.2kΩ
M3 NUT
Adjusting the output
The input voltage applied to CON2
must be several volts higher than the
required output voltage. This is necessary in order to provide regulation.
The minimum voltage across
REG1 required for regulation is
called the “dropout voltage”. For the
LM338T, this voltage varies with the
current and is typically 1.5V for currents below 200mA, rising to 1.7V
at 500mA and 2V at 1A.
Note that the voltage drop across
diode D1 must be added to the dropout voltage in order to calculate the
required input voltage.
For example, if the load draws
2A or more and the required out-
put voltage is 14.4V, then the input
voltage must be 14.4V plus 0.7V (to
compensate for voltage across D1)
plus 1.5V (for the dropout voltage),
ie, the input voltage must be at least
2.2V higher than the output voltage.
Therefore, we need to apply at
least 16.6V minimum to the input
for regulation. This is the absolute
minimum to ensure correct regulation. Note also that any ripple on
the input supply that drops below
the required voltage will cause
problems, since the supply will not
be regulated during these low-going
excursions.
Once you’ve connected the supply, it’s just a matter of adjusting
trimpot VR1 to set the required
output voltage to 14.4V. You will
need to make up two matching
cables with 2-way polarised header
connectors for the input and output
connections.
If ripple is still present on the
output of the regulator, reduce the
output – down to as low as 12V if
necessary.
which can do precision angled cuts.
I used a standard circular saw with a
facility to angle the blade but making
the required precision cuts needs a
very steady hand. The photos show
how the cabinet was assembled, with
cleats, PVA glue and plenty of clamps.
By the way, before the cabinet is
assembled, you need to make cut-outs
in the three MDF front-panel sections,
to suit the radio and the two speakers.
The Sony radio we used has a control
panel which is detachable and it is
good idea to have this removed while
you do any measurements and installation work. The cut-out for the radio
must be very tight; no more than 1mm
clearance for the height and width of
the case, because the front panel trim
will not cover any gaps.
It is also most important to have the
You must fit a heatsink?
The LM338T must be mounted on
a heatsink which can be just a sheet
of 1mm thick aluminium measuring
around 120 x 140mm and mounted
vertically in the rear of the cabinet.
Note that it will be necessary to
electrically isolate the regulator’s
tab from the heatsink. The reason for
this is that the regulator’s tab sits at
the output voltage (ie, 14.4V)
To isolate the tab, use a TO-220
insulating washer and bush and
secure the assembly to the heatsink
using an M3 x 10mm screw and nut.
Fig.3 shows the details.
siliconchip.com.au
LM338T
REGULATOR
PCB
120 x 140mm
ALUMINIUM
HEATSINK
Fig.3: the LM338T regulator must
be isolated from the aluminium
heatsink using a silicone insulat
ing
washer and bush.
February 2014 47
Our First Car Radio-Based Project
These photos show the construction of our first car radio-based project
from the November 1987 issue. The Pioneer KE-A433AM car radio in question was quite a good unit, with PLL synthesiser tuning of the AM & FM
bands and wide and narrow-band reception on AM. It also featured stereo
reception from CQUAM transmissions, 70μs equalisation for metal tape
cassettes and 18 presets for the AM & FM bands.
We teamed it with a pair of small oval 8-ohm car speakers and housed
it in a cabinet made from dressed Radiata pine timber, tinted and finished
with matte Estapol. The front panel was covered with beige grille cloth.
The cabinet was relatively large but simple to make, with the panels
screwed and glued to internal cleats (the rear panel has been removed for
these photos).
This was before the days of regulated DC plugpacks so we used a conventional power supply employing a 15V 1A transformer feeding a bridge
rectifier, a 4700μF 25V capacitor and a regulator circuit based on a 7812
3-pin regulator “jacked up” with two diodes in series with its GND terminal
to set the output to 13.4V DC.
radio cut-out exactly centred (horizontally) in its MDF panel. Similarly, the
circular cut-outs for the two speakers
must be made so that they are equidistant from the top and bottom edges of
the MDF panels and also equidistant
horizontally from the corners of the
finished cabinet (the accompanying
photos tell the story).
We painted the cabinet in a lightgrey semi-gloss oil-based enamel. This
was probably a mistake because it is
more difficult to apply (and clean up
afterwards) than an equivalent waterbased acrylic paint. Either way, the
cabinet needs to be carefully sanded
and filled where necessary with wood
48 Silicon Chip
filler, painted with a water-based acrylic undercoat and then sanded again.
Take our word for it and don’t attempt to do the top coats with a brush
because you will find it almost impossible to avoid brush marks. Instead, use
a small short nap roller intended for
matt and semi-gloss acrylic paint – you
will get a much better finish.
Instead of fitting rubber feet to the
base of the cabinet, we used stick-on
felt pads which can be purchased
cheaply from hardware stores.
Installing the components
As can be seen from the photo of the
rear of the unit, the radio is anchored
by a single screw and a curtain bracket
at the rear. The various connections
for the speakers were brought out to
a multi-way terminal block and the
speaker connections hooked up. We
then simply taped all those connections and the unused wires for the rear
speakers to the top of the radio case
using gaffer tape (crude but effective).
Similarly, we brought the three
supply connections (+12V, memory
supply and GND) to another terminal
block and made connections to the
compact switchmode power supply
via a jack connection and then again,
taped it all to anchor it. The switchmode supply itself was anchored using
double-sided adhesive tape.
You also need an aerial connection
and to do this we used a 60cm length
of wire soldered to the tip connection
of a 3.5mm jack plug which was then
pushed into the aerial socket. We then
taped the wire inside the cabinet. In
most urban areas this will give good
radio reception.
Losing memory
Now one the drawbacks of the
simple supply connection we used is
that if you turn off the power at the
wall socket, you will lose all the user
settings such as the clock, favourite
stations, sound set-up and so on. To
keep these settings, you need to have
a +12V supply permanently connected
to the memory supply terminal (as it
is in a normal car set-up).
The best way to provide a standby
12V supply is to install a small 12V
SLA battery and then trickle-charge
it from the main supply via a 1N4004
power diode and a resistor, say 2.2kΩ
0.25W, to give it a permanent float
charge of just over 5mA. Again, the
battery could be simply secured inside the cabinet with double-sided
adhesive tape.
Improving the bass
As a final finishing touch to the cabinet, we fitted an MDF back panel. As
shown in one of the photos, this has an
access hole for the 2-pin mains plug for
the power supply. The rear panel does
improve the bass somewhat but it still
won’t be as good as it would be if the
cabinet (s) were specifically designed
to suit the speakers.
Incidentally, as a further refinement,
you could add extra terminals to the
rear of the cabinet to allow rear speakSC
ers to be connected.
siliconchip.com.au
BACK TO
FEBRUARY EDITION
WORK PROJEC S
Online & in store
Prices valid until 23/02/2014
Network 8 Channel DVR Kit with 4 High Grade CCD Cameras
This expandable surveillance kit contains an 8 channel DVR, 4 high grade CCD 650TVL cameras, camera
cables, and power supply. The included CCD cameras are 960H compatible and give superior video quality
both day and night. Supplied with 500GB of storage capable of recording up to 200 hours of continuous video.
Video can also be viewed remotely via using a web browser or
iPhone®/Smartphone application.
• H.264 video compression
• HDMI connection
• Motion trigger recording
QV-3036
IP67 True RMS with Smartphone App
Stop carrying a laptop to job sites,
all you need is this multimeter
and a phone! View live
measurements, trend graphs,
data log, email your results and
upload them to the cloud - all
from your Smartphone!
$
89900
Spare cameras QC-8634 $149.00
Also available: Stand Alone 8 Channel
DVR QV-3037 $499.00
5-in-1 Jump Starter
• IP67 waterproof
• 40,000 display count
• True RMS
• Bluetooth® Smartphone/PC
interface
• Digitech DMM Smartphone app
• Data log storage
• 9999 measurement storage
• Triple LCD with bargraph
• 10A current range
QM-1576
Digitech DMM app
available on Google
Play and iTunes®.
$
Professional Leather Tool Utility Belt
Your personal roadside assistant! Includes heavy
duty insulated jumper leads, a 400W inverter, LED
work light, 12V power outlets,
status gauges, and even a
260PSI air compressor!
Strap this to your waist to keep your most used tools
on you at all times. Features a number of pockets
and 2 leather loops
suitable for carrying a
hammer, measuring
tape and more.
• Mains and charging
cables supplied
MB-3594
$
NEW
21900
• Adjustable belt size
HB-6373
NEW
11900
$
In-store only.
Limited stock. Not available online
1995
Accessories not included
3 in 1 All Terrain Tracked Robot
A robust all terrain tracked robot kit with detailed instructions included. Comes
with 6 terrestrial tracks/crawlers. Can be reconfigured to
operate as a gripper, rover or forklift type mechanism.
Electric motors included.
$
• Suitable for ages 13+
• Requires 4 x AA batteries
KJ-8918 WAS $49.95
SAVE $15
Wireless 1080p HDMI Sender Kit
Transmit HDMI signals up to 35m around the home or office. This unit uses 5.15GHz - 5.82GHz DIGITAL
frequency ranges to avoid interference and two high performance omnidirectional antennas to improve
transmission range and reception. Great for use in
foyers, bars, and other entertainment venues.
• Built-in IR remote extender
• Full HD 1920x1080<at>30fps
video resolution
AR-1912
DUE EARLY
FEBRUARY
NEW
$
24900
Digital Storage Oscilloscope
• USB interface
• Includes 2 x 10:1 probes, EasyScope software and USB cable
25MHz Dual Channel
Ideal for the advanced hobby user or technician and is particularly
suited to audio work. See online for more details.
• 145mm colour TFT LCD
• Size: 310(W) x 150(H) x 130(D)mm
QC-1932 WAS $499.00
$
45900
SAVE $40
100MHz Dual Channel with 7" Screen
Enhanced performance, professional level test instrument for the
technician, design engineer or development
laboratory. Includes a carry bag.
$
00
• 178mm colour TFT LCD
• Size: 340(W) x 150(H) x 110(D)mm
QC-1934 WAS $899.00
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
799
SAVE $100
3495
80 Channel 3W
Waterproof Floating UHF Transceiver
A robust floating transceiver suitable for professional
or recreational use. The unit can be submersed up
to 1m in water. Includes a rechargeable Li-ion
battery with a charging cradle and power supply.
• IP67 rated
• Up to 10km range
• CTCSS function
• Hi/Lo power output
• Backlit LCD
• Roger tone
DC-1074
NEW
$
11900
10 Way Surge Protected
Power Boards
Perfect addition for your
home theatre, music
gear or home
office setups.
• 10 surge and spike
protected outputs
• Separate telephone/data line
• 10A resettable overload
circuit breaker
NEW
$
FROM
4995
52,000A Power Board MS-4021 $49.95
144,000A Power Board MS-4034 $79.95
February 2014 49
www.jaycar.com.au
DIY PROJECTS
Eyeglass Repair Tool Kit
Keyring Screwdriver
• Repairs most eye
glasses instantly
TD-2087
• Size: 57(L) x 4(Dia.)mm
TD-2086
Includes unique snap-off screws
that can be effortlessly guided
into the hole. Screw down
and snap off.
All metal precision screwdrivers for
watchmakers, jewellers, modelmaking
or just fixing the sunnies. Set of six,
housed in a handy storage case.
• Slotted: 1.0, 1.2 & 1.6mm
• Phillips: #00, #0 & #1
TD-2023
2
$ 50
3
$ 95
Glasses not
included
Watch Repair Tools
Sturdy adjustable frame, with
4 nylon retaining posts to
enable a good safe grip on
the watch case. The frame
could then be held in a vice,
freeing up your hands.
TH-1934
Watch not included
$
Keys not included
Watchmakers Mallet with
Interchangeable Heads
Watch Case Holder
8
NEW
$ 95
4 Piece Watchmakers' Kit
Features reverse and forward modes and an LED to
illuminate hard to see spots. Three adjustable handle
configurations.
Features 6 different heads
(4 x steel, 1 x brass &
1 x acrylic plastic)
Ball pein on the
opposite end.
$
• 185mm long
TH-1927
9
NEW
95
Remove and reinstall the fiddly little bracelet pins. It
comes with a 1.0mm and 0.8mm pin
removal insert.
TH-1923
NEW
$
2495
2995
2 Piece Watch Case Opener Set
This set consists of an adjustable opener that
engages the little recesses on the back of a
watch and the other half of the set looks like a
small oyster shucking knife.
TH-1929
Ergonomic Supercrimp Tool
Designed to perform the same tasks as a normal
crimper, but with 40-50% less
handle-force required.
$
95
49
• Heavy duty
• Interchangeable dies
TH-1950
Dies to suit:
TH-1952 6P6C Telephone Connectors
TH-1953 8P8C Computer Network Connectors
TH-1954 Fully Insulated Crimp Terminals
TH-1955 BNC/TNC Coax Connectors for
RG58/59/62
TH-1956 F-type Cat 5 to suit RG59/6
TH-1957 Non-insulated Crimp
$ 95
Terminals 22-12 AWG
TH-1958 SMA/Fibre Optic
each
17
NEW
$
1495
Set of five 115mm long
cutters and pliers
for electronics,
hobbies,
beading etc.
50 Silicon Chip
2 To order call 1800 022 888
• Snap lock case
TD-2038
$
1995
1995
4 Tray Tool/Storage Case
LED Headband Magnifier
• Adjustable
head strap
• Built-in LED
work light
• 1.5x, 3x, 8.5x or
10x magnification
• Requires 2 x AAA
batteries (SB-2426 $1.95)
QM-3511
PCB not included
The ultimate driver bit set. It has
a magnetic bit holder, square to
hex socket drivers, & square to
hex bit adaptor. See website
for full list of bits.
$
• Flexible metal arm
• Lens 110mm (Dia.)
• Requires 3 x AAA
batteries (SB-2425
$3.95)
QM-3532
2995
100 Piece Driver Bit Set
95
Illuminated Gooseneck Magnifier
$
1995
• Includes storage box
TD-2022
Leaves both hands free and can be worn over
prescription or safety glasses. Ideal for jewellery,
radio electronics, &
camera repair etc.
Clip-on or free standing magnifier suitable for most
flat surfaces or workplace incline up to 38mm thick.
$
High quality, bright red drivers
you can find easily. Insulated
right to the tip and rated to
1000V.
• Stainless steel
• Soft ergonomic
grips
TH-1812
29
• Mains charger included
• 270mm long
TD-2497
7 Piece
Screwdriver Set
Stainless Cutter / Pliers Set
$
995
Electric Screwdriver - 18 Bits
Watch Bracelet Link Removal Pliers
Kit includes watch case
opener/holder, retaining lugs,
dusting bulb pump, no.7
tweezers and fine
dusting brush.
TH-1932
NEW
$
Jeweller's Screwdriver Set
Attach it to keys. Great for opening
some mobile phones, glasses
watches, or other gadgetry.
13 compartment storage
box for small items
with dividers that
can be removed
to accommodate
larger things.
• Durable hinges
• Size: 270(W) x 260(H) x
150(D)mm
HB-6302
$
2995
$
1695
siliconchip.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
DIY PROJECTS
Soldering Iron Starter Kit
All the soldering essentials for the hobbyist.
Excellent value!
• Kit contains: 240V 20/130W Turbo soldering iron,
spare tip, basic stand, 1mm solder in dispenser
tube, metal solder sucker with spare tip and O-ring
TS-1651
Automotive Crimp Tool with
Connectors
14 Piece Precision Hobby Knife Set
The tool will cut & strip wire, crimp connectors and
also cut a range of metric bolts. Every car enthusiast
should have one of these.
• Includes male & female bullet & spade connectors
+ eyes and butt
joiners
$
95
TH-1848
13
Handy hobby tool set. 10 different
blades, handle, tweezers, flat
screwdriver and vernier
calipers, which measure
up to 80mm.
• Case Size: 170(W) x
85(W) x 35(D)mm
TH-1916
$
$
2495
Pro Soldering Gas Kit
Excellent value and ideal starter kit.
Portasol Super Pro Gas Soldering Iron
Features adjustable tip temperature up to 580˚C, with equivalent electrical
power of between 25 and 125W, so there's ample power when you need it.
Spare tips available, see in-store or on website.
$
• Ignition: internal piezo
crystal igniter
• Size: 234(L) x 25(Dia.)mm
TS-1320
NOTE: * While stock lasts
Drilling & Cleaning
Micro Engraver
The tiny diamond coated tip spins at 10,000 RPM
and will engrave glass, ceramics, metals and
plastics. Perfect to personalise all types of items for
security purposes.
• 2 x AAA batteries and case included
• Size: 160(L) x 15(Dia.)mm
TD-2468
$
1995
Spare Engraver Tip TD-2469 $6.95
Cat III Autoranging DMM
Select the parameter required and the meter chooses
the appropriate display range. Features temperature,
capacitance, data hold and auto power off plus a backlit
display for measuring in dark places.
• Display: 4000 count
• Size: 150(H) x 70(W) x 50(D)mm
QM-1327 WAS $29.95
In-store only.
Limited stock.
Not available
online.
$
2495
Make Your Home Look Alarmed
No one will know that you don't have the full system.
Looks like the real thing.
Includes:
- Siren cover
- Strobe
- 3 alarm stickers
LA-5130 WAS $49.95
$
11500
3995
SAVE $10
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
BONUS!
FREE T ip of your
choice - Hot Air
Blower (TS-131 4*),
Hot Knife (TS-131 5*)
& Flame (TS-131 6*)
valued at
$23.95
• Kit contains pro gas soldering iron
with tips, cutters, desolder braid,
electrical shears, wire stripper/
cutter crimpers solder splice
heatshrinks and heat
shrink pack
TS-1114
$
9900
Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner
110 Piece Rotary Tool Set
Drill, saw, sand, polish, carve or grind with this
comprehensive rotary tool set. See website for full
list of attachments.
• 12V
• 12,000 RPM
• Case size: 240(L) x 200(W)
x 70(D)mm
TD-2451
$
100W transducer produces millions of microscopic
bubbles that penetrate and clean microscopic
crevices. Used for automotive injectors, jewellery,
glasses, circuit boards and more!
• Large LED display
• Mains powered
• Tank capacity: 3L
• Size: 265(L) x 160(W)
x 245(H)mm
YH-5410
WAS $399
$
29900
2995
SAVE $100
Soldering Stations
60W Lead-Free with LCD Panel
60W ESD Safe Rework Station
Suited to lead-free soldering and is just as capable
with ordinary leaded solder.
Complete solder/desolder
station for production and
service use.
• Soft insulated
rubber grip
• Silicon rubber
sheathed power cable
• Mains powered
• Digital LCD display
• Temperature range
160˚C to 480˚C
TS-1390
• Microprocessor controlled
• Dual LCD displays
• Temperature range
160˚C to 480˚C
• Celsius and
Fahrenheit
display
TS-1574
$
SAVE $5
DIY Packages
1495
Simple two zone, two wire alarm for small to medium size
premises. Includes one passive infrared sensor for large
areas and a reed switch for one entry point such as a
door or window. Additional sensors (available separately
LA-5481 $24.95) can be
added if required.
• Includes: 2-Zone control
unit, PIR sensor, Reed
switch & 25m cable
LA-5480 WAS $69.95
59
95
SAVE $10
29900
14900
2-Zone Alarm Kit
$
$
8 Zone Wireless Alarm Kit
The system "learns" what sensors are connected
and the part arm function allows you to protect
certain zones while others are disarmed. Easy to
install, ideal for rented or temporary premises.
• Kit includes siren, keypad,
PIR sensor, reed switch
and power supply
LA-5150 WAS $169.00
$
14900
SAVE $20
February 2014 51
www.jaycar.com.au
3
SIGHT & SOUND
HDMI Over Cat 5/6 Extender
NEW
$
99
• Transmission
range: up to 100m
• Size: 100(Dia.) x
120(H)mm
AR-1817 WAS $49.95
Extend your HDMI signal up to 60m* using a single
CAT 5/6 cable. Both unshielded
twisted pair (UTP) and
shielded twisted pair (STP)
cables may be used,
however shielded is
recommended.
A clever device that allows you to hide your HDMI
audio/video sources in cabinets or behind walls but
still be able to control them. Supporting up to 1080p
and HDCP, the IR and AV signal transmits through a
single length of HDMI cable up to 45m.
• Gold plated input/output
connections
AC-1641
IR Remote Control Extender
• Supported resolution:
480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p
• Mains adaptor included
AC-1681
HDMI Repeater with Infrared
Extender
00
NOTE: *Distance will vary
depending on the resolution and
cable specifications used. See
website for full specifications.
$
14900
2.4GHz DIGITAL Wireless HDMI AV Sender/Receiver
Transmit high definition audio and video signals from your HD equipment to your HDTV or HD monitor
up to 50m away.
• 2 x 1m HDMI leads included
• Up to 1080p output resolution
• Size: 151(L) x
116(W) x 26(H)mm
AR-1871
$
NEW
149
• Mains power supply included
• HDMI in/out ports
AC-1615 WAS $99.00
$
SAVE $10
Remote Control AV Selector
Eliminates cable hassles, add up to 3 AV sources
to your home theatre's AV inputs.
See website for full
specifications.
• DC power supply
• 9VDC / 500mA power
AC-1674 WAS $59.00
$
4900
SAVE $10
Add HDMI port to your computer
with this convenient adaptor.
Simply install the driver, connect
the device to your USB 2.0 port
then connect to your extra
display and away you go.
$
6995
SAVE $10
• Add up to 6 extra displays
to a PC (requires
6 adaptors)
XC-4972 WAS $79.95
52 Silicon Chip
Allows you to output audio from your PC or Apple®
computer in high fidelity
24-bit 192kHz audio via
USB.
$
4 To order call 1800 022 888
SAVE $20
Allows you to stream videos, music and photos wirelessly
from your computer or DLNA enabled Android
Smartphone or Tablet.
• Doubles as a Wi-Fi router
• Supplied with software and
power adaptor (HDMI cable
available separately)
AR-1914
Stereo Amplifier with Remote
Control
Rated at a generous 100 watts RMS per channel
and has a flat frequency response from 20Hz to
20kHz. Includes remote control to adjust input
source, volume etc.
• 2 x 100WRMS
• Inputs for Tape,
Tuner, AV1,
AV2, CD,
Phono
AA-0470
For splitting your FOXTEL®
signal to two outlets.
• FOXTEL® approved
NEW
$
6
FROM
95
Cassette USB/SD Encoding
Music Box
Digitally encode your old cassette tape collection
straight to SD card or memory stick or use as a
standard cassette player with its high quality
amplified internal speakers.
• Built-in amplifier and
stereo speakers
GE-4139
$
$
16900
USB to DVI Adaptor
• Powered via USB
XC-4879
WAS $69.95
Foxtel® Approved
Socket Wall Plates
2 x F61 and RJ12 Socket
Wall Plate
LT-3058 $7.95
SAVE $10
Connect your monitor to the
computer via the USB 2.0
port without buying additional
graphics cards. Use up to
6 simultaneously to run
screen arrays.
16900
2 x F61 Socket Wall Plate
LT-3041 $6.95 (shown)
8900
Also
available: 200WRMS Per
Channel Stereo Amplifier
AA-0484 $329.00
USB Converters
USB to 1080p HDMI
USB 2.0 Audio Converter
• Input: USB 2.0
• Output: 6.35mm
headphone, 2 x
RCA and
TOSLINK
AC-1616
WAS $99.00
8900
2995
HDMI Display Receiver
$
Audio Leveller & Converter
Sorts out those annoying fluctuations in volume while
channel surfing or between the TV shows
themselves and the advertisements.
$
NEW
00
HDMI Audio Signal Volume Leveller
Extend the range of your IR remote control up to
100m. IR commands are sent by
the transmitter via 433MHz signal
to the receiver in another room.
Mains plugpacks for transmitter
and receiver included.
$
5995
SAVE $10
9900
2.4GHz Digital Wireless Speakers
Pop this pair of speakers in the backyard and the
2.4GHz DIGITAL audio transmitter will pipe crystal
clear audio to the units up to 30m away.
• Powered by included mains adaptor or 6 x AA
batteries (not included)
AR-1891
$
11900
In-store only.
Limited stock.
siliconchip.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
AUTO & OUTDOORS
In-Car Communication
Don't Get FINED!
Play MP3 music over your car stereo. Simply plugs into
a cigarette lighter socket and will play audio tracks from
a SD/MMC card, USB flash
drive, iPod®, or MP3 player
directly through the FM
band on the car stereo.
Bluetooth® Hands Free Car Kit
Avoid the risk involved with using your mobile handset whilst driving by using
these simple Bluetooth® hands free car kit. Up to 10m Bluetooth® range.
FM Transmitter Kit with In-line Antenna
Accept and reject calls with the push of a button.
• Built-in speaker and microphone
• Adjustable volume and echo cancellation
AR-3121 WAS $29.95
• Includes a remote
control
AR-3104
$
39
SAVE $10
Safely dial or answer phone calls hands-free whilst driving with this user
friendly visor mounted Bluetooth® car kit.
• Large LCD display
• Voice operated dialing
• Allows 2 phones to connect simultaneously
AR-3122 WAS $59.95
95
Delivers 5VDC up to 1A via the USB output, and
includes a universal USB charging lead with 9
interchangeable tips to match all the most common
mobile phones.
• Lead length: 1.2m
MB-3653 WAS $24.95
• Input: 12 - 24VDC
• iPhone®/iPod®
plugs included
MP-3578
1995
SAVE $5
$
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
Range in power from 180 to 2000 watts and provide
stable and reliable power in mobile and permanent
installations. All models have a USB port for powering
USB gadgets. See website for full specifications.
$
1995
FROM
12500
In-store only. Limited stock.
Not available online.
WAS $139.00
WAS $179.00
WAS $259.00
WAS $449.00
WAS $674.00
WAS $899.00
NOW $125.00
NOW $159.00
NOW $229.00
NOW $399.00
NOW $599.00
NOW $799.00
4995
SAVE $10
Robust and durable antennas to suit cars, RVs and
trucks. Two models to choose from. Each features
a 5m pre-terminated cable with FME socket and
PL259 adaptor so no tools are required.
4dBi Flexible UHF Antenna
• 407mm long
• Includes 'L' guard
mount bracket
DC-3073 $59.95
NEW
$
SAVE $14.00
SAVE $20.00
SAVE $30.00
SAVE $50.00
SAVE $75.00
SAVE $100.00
10%
OFF
Battery Monitor
5995
3 & 6dBi UHF Premium Antenna Kit (shown)
• Stainless spring & elevated feed base
• 450mm (3dBi) and 900mm (6.5dBi) long
• Includes 'L' guard mount bracket and bull bar
bracket
DC-3071 $119.00
2.4GHz Rear View Mirror Reversing
Camera - Wireless
• Size: 85(L) x 75(W)
x 15(D)mm
PP-2142
• 1m length
PP-2140
• 3.5" LCD colour screen
• Range: up to 80m
• Size: 280(L) x 95(H) x 26(D)mm
QM-3795 WAS $169.00
$
$
995
Power Banks
E-Charger Power Bank
12V/USB Charger
12
Back-up
Battery Case to suit iPhone 5®
Eliminate the short battery life of the iPhone 5®
with this battery extender. Provide an extra
300 hours of standby time.
95
Never be caught out with a flat phone battery. Simply connect
your phone or other mobile device for a quick charge.
Designed for use on 12V vehicles and can
assist if the starter battery is a bit low. See
our website for full specifications.
• 240VAC mains charger supplied
• Size: 250(W) x 110(L) x 80(H)mm
MB-3597 WAS $29.95
In-store only. Limited stock.
$
In-store only.
Limited stock.
Use this memory saver lead to store, and
restore all of your vehicles fault codes,
radio settings, alarm settings, keyless entry
codes, and more.
$
2495
SAVE $5
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
USB Power Bank with
5000mAh Battery
• 2A and 500mA USB port
• Charges 2 devices at once
MB-3644 WAS $59.95
14900
SAVE $20
OBD2 Plug / Memory Saver
Simply plugs into your carʼs cigarette lighter
socket to indicate alternator and battery status.
Compatible with 12VDC systems.
FROM
Transmits video signals via the 2.4GHz band to the
monitor which can be mounted internally or externally.
The monitor fits securely over your existing rear view
mirror and can be quickly removed when needed.
• 12VDC
MI-5160
MI-5162
MI-5164
MI-5170
MI-5172
MI-5176
$
UHF Car Antennas
Universal USB Mobile Phone
Car Charger
Ideal for charging your iPhone®/iPod® while
connected to the audio input in your car stereo.
Includes a USB cigarette lighter charger.
180W
380W
600W
1000W
1500W
2000W
1995
Bluetooth® Hands Free Car Kit with LCD
Car Charger/Audio Kit for
iPhone®/iPod®
$
$
• Acts as a protective case
• Battery capacity
2000mAh
MB-3695
iPhone® not included
$
3995
SAVE $20
$
3995
Solar Mobile Charger
A pocket sized solar panel with a built-in
lithium battery so you can charge your
gadgets anytime, anywhere.
• Compact & lightweight
• 2 x USB sockets
MB-3598
$
4995
February 2014 53
www.jaycar.com.au
5
ARDUINO PROJECTS
USB Lipo Charger for Arduino
Charge Li-Po cells from any USB source, USB
plugpack, laptop or PC.
• 3.7V output for a single
Li-Po cell
• Micro-USB jack
• Size: 27(W) x
16(H) x
10(D)mm
XC-4243
$
1295
Arduino Modules
Humidity & Temperature Sensor
Module for Arduino
Measure temperature and relative humidity using a
simple interface that requires just three wires to the
sensor: GND, power, and data.
• -4˚C to +125˚C temperature range
with +/-0.5˚C accuracy
• 0-100% relative humidity
with 2-5% accuracy
• 3 to 5V operation
XC-4246
$
19
95
USB-Boost Module - Arduino
Compatible
Takes a power input of 1.2 to 4.5V, and boosts
it to a regulated 5V output up to
500mA. Perfect for powering
$
95
Arduino projects from batteries,
such as a single 3.7V Li-Po cell.
12
• USB output jack
• Low-battery
warning LED
XC-4239
Perfect for clock projects, dataloggers or anything
that needs to know the date and time. Keeps
accurate time for years using a tiny coin-cell, and is
very simple to connect to your Arduino project.
• Battery included
XC-4272
Specially designed to be compatible with the Android
Open Accessory Development Kit enabling you to
build your own Android peripherals
to connect your phone to
whatever you like.
• Built-in charger
XC-4222
$
2995
Arduino Shields
RFID Lock Shield Kit
This shield enables your Arduino to control a door
lock using an electric strike plate and one of a
number of commonly available
RFID modules.
Includes onboard Ethernet, a USB-serial converter, a
microSD card slot for storing gigabytes of web server
content or data, and even Power-over-Ethernet support.
• ATmega328P MCU
running at 16MHz
• 10/100base-T Ethernet
built-in
XC-4216
6995
Allows up to 4 security sensors to be connected to
an Arduino with full End-Of-Line (EOL) support to
detect tampering with the sensors or cable. EOL
technology allows the system to detect a variety of
events using a single
cable pair to the sensor.
Stackable Header Set for Arduino
ATmega328P MCU with Arduino
Uno Bootloader
The perfect accessory to the ProtoShield Basic,
Pro, and vero type boards when connecting to
your Arduino compatible project.
• 2 x 8 pin and 2 x 6 pin included to suit the Eleven
(XC-4210), EtherTen (XC-4216),
USBDroid(XC-4222) and
ProtoShields
HM-3207
2
$ 95
54 Silicon Chip
6 To order call 1800 022 888
An Atmel AVR ATmega328P microcontroller to build
customised Arduino compatible projects.
Includes 16Mhz Crystal Oscillator.
$
995
11900
8 Channel Relay Driver Shield
Drive up to 8 relays from an Arduino using just 2 I/O
pins. Perfect for home automation projects when
combined with relay SY-4052 (available separately
$8.95) and DIN-rail relay mounting base SY-4063
(available separately $4.95).
• LED status
displays
XC-4276
$
3495
Also available
4 Channel Relay Driver Module
for Arduino XC-4278 $13.95
2795
• Pre-installed Arduino Uno
bootloader
ZZ-8726
3495
The ultimate network-connected Arduino-compatible
board: combining an ATmega2560 MCU, onboard
Ethernet, a USB-serial converter, a microSD card slot
for storing gigabytes of web server content or data,
Power-over-Ethernet support, and even an onboard
switchmode voltage regulator so it can run on up to
28VDC without overheating.
$
Security Sensor Shield Kit
$
Connect this to your board and point it at a surface or
heat source to remotely measure its temperature. This
is our special version of the industrial infrared remote
thermometer units with an onboard power supply,
communication support and a software library and
examples supplied.
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built-in
• 54 digital I/O lines
• 16 analogue inputs
XC-4256
• Status LEDs on each
channel
XC-4217
2995
IR Temperature Sensor Module for
Arduino
EtherMega
• Supported readers include
ID12, ID20, RDM630,
RDM880, and HF MultiTag
XC-4215
$
2295
$
EtherTen
$
6995
• Size: 46(W) x 26(D)
x 10(H)mm
XC-4241
• 3.3 to 5V operation
• -33 to +220˚C measurement range, 1
second response time
XC-4260
Arduino Compatible Boards
USBDroid with Onboard
Android/USB Host
Connects to the USB port on your computer and acts
as a virtual serial port, converting the USB signals to
either 5V or 3.3V logic level serial data.
$
Real-Time Clock Module for
Arduino
$
USB-Serial Adaptor Module Arduino Compatible
4 Channel PoE Midspan Injector
for Arduino
Power up to 4 EtherTen's
(XC-4216) or EtherMega's
(XC-4256) with DC from a
low cost plugpack across
your home or office network
cables. It isolates and powers
the correct wires automatically.
• 4 channels of input/output jacks
XC-4254
$
2695
siliconchip.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
KIT PROJECTS
Voltage Regulators
Regulated Voltage Adaptor Kit
Ref: Electronics Australia August 1997
A low-powered DC converter suited for many
applications such as a peripheral computer power
supply, powered speakers, modems, music/MIDI
keyboards, etc. PCB and electronic components
included.
• PCB: 52 x 19mm
KA-1797
Improved Low Voltage Adaptor Kit
Voltage Regulator Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine May 2007
Provides up to 1,000mA at any voltage from 1.3 to
22VDC. Ideal for experimental projects or as a
mini bench power supply etc. Kit supplied with
PCB and electronic components.
• PCB: 38 x 35mm
KC-5446
7
$ 95
$
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine April/May 2012 + Aug 2013
Control induction motors* up to 1.5kW (2HP) to run machinery at different
speeds or controlling a pool pump to save money. Also works with 3-phase
motors. Full form kit includes case, PCB, heatsink,
cooling fan, hardware and electronics (including
revisions from the August Silicon Chip article).
An advanced project for an experienced
constructor.
KC-5509
NOTE: *Does not
work for motors with
centrifugal switch
$
• Kit includes screen printed PCB and
all specified components (heatsink
not included)
• PCB: 108 x 37mm
$ 95
KC-5463
1695
Speed Control Kit for Induction Motors
24900
17
12V 120W 3-Step MPPT Solar Charger Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine February 2011
Designed for use with 40W to 120W 12V solar
panels and lead acid batteries and provides 3-stage
charging with the option of equalisation and with
MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking). Operation
is for 12V panels and batteries. Kit includes PCB, all
components and case.
• Charge indicator LEDs
• Temperature compensation for charge voltage
• 3-step charging
• PCB: 111 x 85mm
$
00
KC-5500
129
12/24VDC 20A Motor Speed Controller Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine June 2011
Control the speed of 12 or 24VDC motors from zero to full power, up to 20A.
Features optional soft start, adjustable pulse frequency to reduce motor noise,
and low battery protection. The speed is set using the onboard trimpot, or by
using an external potentiometer (available separately, use RP-3510 $2.25).
• Kit supplied with PCB and all onboard
electronic components
• Suitable enclosure: UB3 (HB-6013 $3.95)
sold separately
• PCB: 106
x 60mm
$
95
KC-5502
Soft Start Kit for Power Tools
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine July 2012
Stops that dangerous kick-back when you first power up an electric saw,
router or other mains-powered hand tool. This helps prevent damage to the
job or yourself when kick-back torque jerks the power tool out of your hand.
Kit supplied with PCB, silk screened case, 2m power cord and specified
electronic components.
• 240VAC 10A
• PCB: 81 x 59mm
KC-5511
39
$
Universal Power Supply Regulator Kit
4995
240V 10A Motor Speed Controller Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip March 2011
One small board and a handful of parts will allow you to
create either a regulated 15V rail or +15VDC single
voltage from a single winding or centre tap transformer
(not included).
Ref: SC Feb/Mar 2014
An improvement on our successful KC-5478 Motor Controller Kit. Designed for
controlling typical brush motor tools such as electric drills, saws and routers. The
new design is easier to build and features soft start
and improved overload protection. The case has the
tricky cut-outs pre-machined, but a little bit of extra
drilling is required to complete the project.
Kit includes machined case, overlay
PCB and electronic
components.
KC-5526
• Includes all PCB and components for board,
transformer not included
• PCB: 72 x 30mm
KC-5501
$
95
NEW
14
$
KIT DUE LATE MARCH
3V - 9V DC to DC Converter Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip March 2004
Allows you to use regular Ni-CD or Ni-MH 1.2V
cells, or alkaline 1.5V cells for 9V applications.
Using low cost, high capacity rechargeable cells, the
kit will pay for itself in no time! Kit supplied with
PCB, and all electronic components.
• PCB: 59 x 29mm
KC-5391
$
1595
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
Ref: Silicon Chip Magazine May 2008
Runs a variety of devices such as CD or
MP3 players from your car cigarette lighter
sockets or even powered speakers from the
power supply inside your PC. It will supply
either 3V, 5V, 6V, 9V, 12V or 15V and (when
used with an appropriate input voltage and
heat sink) deliver up to 4A at the selected
output voltage.
DC Relay Switch
Ref: Silicon Chip November 2006
An extremely useful and versatile kit that enables you
to use a tiny trigger current - as low as 400mA at 12V
to switch up to 30A at 50VDC. It has an isolated input,
and is suitable for a variety of triggering options.
• Kit includes PCB with overlay and all
electronic components with clear
instructions.
KC-5434
$
1695
14900
12VDC Relay Card
This kit will close a relay's contacts with as little
as 5mA to trigger the circuit. Use the relay to
sound buzzers, switch on
lights, operate solenoids,
trigger alarms, etc.
• Kit includes PCB, relay and
electronic components
KG-9142
$
995
February 2014 55
www.jaycar.com.au
7
POWER PROJECTS
Power Monitors
Grid-Connect Solar Power Monitor with USB
Interface
Digital Mains Timer
Measures the power
consumption of your
home, the power
being produced by
your solar array,
and also gives you
a "balance" of the
power you are
consuming versus what your
solar array is producing.
Control lighting or powered appliances
with this programmable timer.
• 8 on/off programmes
across 16
combinations of days
or blocks of days
• Internal battery
backup
• Rated up to 10A
MS-6110
$
24
$
$
329
SAVE $20
Ideal for caravans, mobile homes, household lighting, shop fittings,
or anywhere a bright downlight is required.
BUY ANY
2 FOR $25
SAVE $4.90
• 24 high output 2835-type SMD LEDs
• 450 lumens
ZD-0544
12VAC/DC MR16
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
ZD-0544
ZD-0545
ZD-0546
ZD-0547
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
$14.95
240VAC GU10
Cool White
Warm White
Cool White
Warm White
SAVE $2
• 7" LED display with two video inputs
• 12 or 24VDC
• IP65 rated
QM-3742
NEW
$
19900
290mm
LED Downlights
120˚
120˚
60˚
60˚
1295
Enables you to monitor the area to the rear of a large vehicle with
a wider field-of-view. Fitted with a SHARP® CCD device with 18 x
IR LED's for night vision illumintation. Supplied with 5m of preterminated connecting cable and a remote control.
00
• 50,000+ hour life span
• 4340 Lumens
SL-3914 WAS $349.00
ZD-0540
ZD-0541
ZD-0542
ZD-0543
$
Ultimate Rear-View System
Waterproof and shock proof LED light bar for 4WD or marine use.
Extremely high light output and features a near unbreakable 100%
polycarbonate front lens cover. Supplied with alloy mounting feet,
stainless steel hardware, and a wiring harness
with remote rocker switch
and relay.
Cool White
Warm White
Cool White
Warm White
12900
SAVE $20
NOTE: Only works with NET-METER
grid-connect solar systems.
10" Solid LED Light Bar for 4WD/Marine
120˚
120˚
60˚
60˚
This compact lamp opens to reveal a
lampshade-like diffuser equipped with
a powerful 1W LED.
Collapses flat and
can be used as a
flashlight.
• Requires 3 x AA
batteries
SL-2717
WAS $14.95
• Uses 433MHz to wirelessly transmit data
• Stores up to 2 years of data
MS-6167 WAS $149.00
95
"Gas Mantle Look" Lamp
ZD-0542
ZD-0540
$
14
95
75 Channel UHF CB Headset
This adjustable headset with plug-in mic
provides a high level of passive noise
attenuation. Perfect for a noisy environment.
• 0.5W transmission power
• Up to 3km range
• Push to Talk (PTT) function
• Scan channel, call tone
and monitor functions
• Mains charger included
DC-1052 WAS $119.00
ea
$
9900
SAVE $20
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE - Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
• AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Ph (02) 6239 1801
• NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Alexandria
Bankstown
Blacktown
Bondi Junction
Brookvale
Campbelltown
Castle Hill
Coffs Harbour
Croydon
Erina
Gore Hill
Hornsby
Liverpool
Maitland
Newcastle
Penrith
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Ph (02) 9678 9669
Ph (02) 9369 3899
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Ph (02) 4620 7155
Ph (02) 9634 4470
Ph (02) 6651 5238
Ph (02) 9799 0402
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Ph (02) 9439 4799
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Ph (02) 9821 3100
Ph (02) 4934 4911
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Port Macquarie
Rydalmere
Sydney City
Taren Point
Tuggerah
Tweed Heads
Wagga Wagga
Warners Bay
Wollongong
• NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
56 S
C
Ph (08) 8948 4043
• QUEENSL AND
Aspley
Browns Plains
Caboolture
Cairns
Caloundra
Capalaba
Ipswich
Labrador
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the
time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring your local
store to check stock details. Savings off Original RRP.
ilicon
hip
Prices valid from 24th
January 2014
to 23rd February 2014.
Ph (02) 6581 4476
Ph (02) 8832 3120
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Ph (02) 4353 5016
Ph (07) 5524 6566
Ph (02) 6931 9333
Ph (02) 4954 8100
Ph (02) 4226 7089
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Ph (07) 3800 0877
Ph (07) 5432 3152
Ph (07) 4041 6747
Ph (07) 5491 1000
Ph (07) 3245 2014
Ph (07) 3282 5800
Ph (07) 5537 4295
Mackay
Maroochydore
Mermaid Beach
Nth Rockhampton
Townsville
Strathpine
Underwood
Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 4953 0611
Ph (07) 5479 3511
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Ph (07) 4926 4155
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Ph (07) 3889 6910
Ph (07) 3841 4888
Ph (07) 3393 0777
• SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Clovelly Park
Elizabeth
Gepps Cross
Reynella
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Ph (08) 8276 6901
Ph (08) 8255 6999
Ph (08) 8262 3200
Ph (08) 8387 3847
• TASMANIA
Hobart
Launceston
Ph (03) 6272 9955
Ph (03) 6334 2777
• VICTORIA
Cheltenham
Coburg
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100 Fax: (02) 8832 3169
Ph (03) 9585 5011
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Ferntree Gully
Frankston
Geelong
Hallam
Kew East
Melbourne
Mornington
Ringwood
Roxburgh Park
Shepparton
Springvale
Sunshine
Thomastown
Werribee
NEW
NEW
Ph (03) 9758 5500
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Ph (03) 9796 4577
Ph (03) 9859 6188
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ph (03) 5976 1311
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Ph (03) 8339 2042
Ph (03) 5822 4037
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Ph (03) 9310 8066
Ph (03) 9465 3333
Ph (03) 9741 8951
• WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Joondalup
Maddington
Mandurah
Midland
Northbridge
Rockingham
ONLINE ORDERS
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Email: techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Occasionally there are discontinued items advertised on a special / lower price in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in
certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Stockist. These stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock.
Ph (08) 9301 0916
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Ph (08) 9586 3827
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Ph (08) 9328 8252
Ph (08) 9592 8000
siliconchip.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Fixing smartphones & tablets can be tricky
Repairing smartphones and tablets is now
another string to my bow, although nowhere
near as lucrative as I initially thought they
would be. Parts availability, cost and long
delivery times mean that the customer often
just walks away and buys a new device.
I’ve mentioned before that I’ve now
widened the scope of my business by
accepting smartphones and tablets
for repairs. However, deciding to repair these devices was the easy part.
There were also other considerations,
such as investment in marketing and
advertising (so that people know that
we now repair these items) and allocating money for any specialised tools or
related hardware that were needed to
get the job done.
On top of all that, I also had to learn
new techniques and develop new
skills. While everything superficially
looks easy enough from a service/
repair point of view, there are some
aspects of phone and tablet repair that
can be tricky to master.
Tablets and smartphones are basically computers that work pretty
much the same as a desktop or laptop
siliconchip.com.au
device. They have central processing
units (CPUs), random access memory
(RAM) and on-board storage, and run
an operating system such as Windows
8, Android or iOS. However, that’s
where the similarities end because
these gadgets are quite different from
a repair standpoint.
First there is the size; phones and
tablets range from small to tiny and
when the smallest driver in your jeweller’s screwdriver set is too big for the
job at hand, you know there will be
challenges. A decent magnifying lamp
is essential kit and my LED magnifying headset almost never leaves my
sweated brow when working on a
smartphone.
iPhones and iPads (in fact, i-anything) are especially challenging to
work on because they are over-engineered and where a simple plastic clip
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
• Fixing smartphones & tablets
• The dusty Panasonic TV set
• Samsung Synmaster 226BW
monitor
• Netgear 16-port switch
• Faulty air-conditioner
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
will suffice for Samsung, Apple will
use half a dozen tiny screws, all different sizes and with a proprietary head
pattern that requires a special driver
to undo. OK, I’ll admit to exaggerating
that last sentence a little for dramatic
effect but most i-devices are renowned
for being tricky to disassemble.
In fact, a photo taken before disassembly can be a Godsend weeks later
when you get to putting it all back together again and you need to figure out
just where those 20 tiny, all-differentsized screws go.
A wise investment is a screw guide
for the different models of phones and
tablets. These are plastic templates
the same size as the device and have
markings showing where the various
internal components go and, more
importantly, which screw goes where.
Until one gets familiar enough with
the gear so as not to need it, the few
dollars these cost are well worth it.
In my case, the last thing I want to
do is install one of the longer screws
in a location where a shorter screw
should go. In fact, I’ve seen many a
laptop with lumps or holes in the top
of the case because someone’s brotherin-law/other relative (who knows all
about computers) installed the wrong
screws in various locations, only to
find that they went right through the
case when tightened down.
It certainly wouldn’t be easy to tell
a client that you’ve driven a screw
through their LCD screen, so a great
February 2014 57
Serviceman’s Log – continued
deal of care is required when putting
these devices back together! Tolerances are very tight, especially in
phones where so much is packed into
such as small space,
The criteria for repairing tablets and
phones are also different than for a
desktop computer. Indeed, the range
of faults that can be repaired is rather
limited and it can quickly become uneconomical to proceed. If we have to
buy any major hardware component,
such as a main board (known as a logic
board in i-devices) or a replacement
screen, the cost quickly blows out and
most clients will red-flag the repair in
favour of a new device.
Sourcing parts
Speaking of parts, a big issue here
in New Zealand is sourcing them.
Obtaining new parts directly from the
manufacturer can be difficult, if not
impossible, for some brands. What’s
more, those parts that are available are
often disproportionately expensive,
pushing the repair cost of an item over
an already low “chuck-it-in-the-bin”
threshold.
You might think that we could
58 Silicon Chip
simply stock common parts for the
most popular smartphones and tablets.
However, the reality is that there are
so many makes and models out there
that we simply can’t afford to have
that much money tied up in screens
and digitisers we “might use” one day.
Besides, tablets and phones go out of
fashion so quickly these days we’d
probably end up with shelves full of
unwanted parts gathering dust.
My opinion is that the manufacturers view these products more as
consumable, throw-away items rather
than as something intended to be repaired. The cost of spare parts and the
often limited availability only serve to
support this point of view.
As a result, the only repair options
(apart from binning the device and
buying a new one) are to use salvaged
parts from previously written-off devices or, where feasible, import parts
from overseas vendors. But even if
the parts we want are available online, there is the issue of time; being
stuck down here at the bottom of the
world means that anything coming
from south-east Asia takes about three
weeks to arrive unless we want to pay
silly money for expedited shipping
which immediately puts the job back
in the “too expensive” basket.
A recent example involved the digitiser for a Nokia Lumia smartphone
which was listed for $US23.50 from a
Chinese vendor. It wasn’t a bad price
given I couldn’t source one locally
but the estimated delivery time was
15-26 days – much too long for the
customer to wait. If we forked out
an extra $US39, I could have had it
shipped quicker but it still would have
taken 5-15 days, still an unacceptable
wait for the customer (who only had
one phone) and also making it too
expensive to boot.
As an aside, we do offer a reasonable
deal on a loaner phone but I’ve found
that not many people take up the offer.
The fact is, few people want to wait
weeks for their phone to be repaired
and while the time factor is less pressing with tablets, the same problems
exist when it comes to obtaining parts.
On reflection then, repairing these
devices hasn’t been such a great addon to our business – certainly not as
much as I’d hoped. However, some
people do want their devices fixed and
so while only a few of these gadgets
actually make it through to the workbench, we can and do fix them.
A typical repair
The following case illustrates a
typical repair that I commonly do on
both tablets and phones – repairing
a broken digitiser. In almost all such
cases, the device has been dropped,
though occasionally I do see units that
have been stepped on or sat on.
One recent case involved a near-new
Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1. Its owner
had accidentally dropped it onto the
garage floor as he got out of his car,
breaking the digitiser. This is a common problem; most phones and tablets
are wafer-thin and made of slippery
materials and while some people buy
a nice case to protect their device (and
also make it easier to hang on to), many
don’t and end up losing their grip at
the worst possible moment.
The Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 is a
beautifully-made device and is a serious rival for Apple’s iPad, arguably
the industry standard for this type
of device. When it comes to repairs
though, the Samsung is generally the
easier of the two to work on, although
replacing a broken digitiser in either
device presents a challenge.
siliconchip.com.au
The first thing I have to determine
when the client calls is which part has
actually broken. That’s because most
people claim they’ve broken the screen
on their device, not realising that the
screen and digitiser are separate entities. In my experience, broken LCD
screens are relatively rare and it is
usually just the overlying digitiser that
has cracked, giving the appearance
that the screen itself has cracked.
Fortunately, replacement screens
and digitisers for most devices can
be purchased individually, making
repairs a lot cheaper than if they have
to be purchased together.
The digitiser is a thin piece of very
strong glass that overlays the LCD
screen and is the part that gives tablets
and phones their touch-screen capability. They must be manufactured under
considerable stress because sometimes
the smallest impact can result in a
seriously shattered digitiser and yet in
other cases, they can take a considerable shock and remain intact. It really
is the luck of the draw and my advice
is to avoid any kind of impact at all!
To determine what’s going on, I ask
the client if they can see the screen
as normal underneath the cracks. If
they can and the image isn’t distorted
or fragmented, then the LCD panel
itself is probably fine and it is only
the digitiser that has broken. On the
other hand, if the screen displays gaps,
lines or other artefacts, then the LCD
has probably copped it as well and
both parts will have to be replaced.
In fact, replacing both parts is actually preferable from my point of view
because removing a cracked digitiser
without damaging an unbroken screen
underneath isn’t easy. It certainly
separates the men from the (cow)boys.
The problem is that the digitiser
is held place using extremely strong
1
double-sided adhesive tape and so removing it is quite a challenge. Getting
it clear of the chassis without cracking
the LCD screen beneath it or damaging
the fine, decorative edge of the chassis
itself is extremely difficult and this is
where having the right tools makes a
big difference.
In this case, the Galaxy Tab’s screen
was intact so only the shattered digitiser needed to be replaced. The owner
wasn’t bothered about the delay in getting the parts; he’d originally thought
that he’d have to buy a new tablet, so
he was over the moon when he found
out that it could be repaired.
I ordered a new digitiser in from
a vendor in China I’d used before.
I then had plenty of time to get the
old digitiser off while waiting for
this part. If the digitiser is reasonably
intact (ie, all the pieces are present
and it’s holding together), a heat-gun
can be used to carefully heat around
the edges, weakening the grip of the
tape. This requires a lot of judgement,
as too much heat can easily damage
other parts while too little is ineffective when it comes to weakening the
adhesive bond.
I use the hot-air function of my desoldering station so I can accurately
adjust the temperature of the air. I
also keep an infrared non-contact thermometer on-hand to make sure things
don’t get too hot. By using just the
right amount of heat, the glue softens
enough to allow a case-opening tool to
be inserted between the digitiser and
the chassis, after which the digitiser
can be gently prised off.
The trick here is to hold the tablet
and use the hot-air gun to maintain the
temperature around the area just ahead
of the case opening tool, all while
keeping forward pressure on the tool
and upward pressure on the digitiser.
Rigid PCBs (up to 32 layers),
Rigid-Flexi, Flexible & Metal Core
3
PCB Assembly
(TH, SMT, micro BGA, QFN)
Having three hands here is a definite
advantage but with experience, it can
be done with just two!
During this process, extreme care
must be taken not to get anywhere
near the LCD panel which lurks dangerously close to the digitiser. If the
prying tool is pushed too far in towards
the centre of the screen, pressure can
be applied to the LCD instead of the
chassis and the resulting crack as the
screen breaks is a sound you definitely
don’t want to hear. Sticking close to the
edge is a must but like any difficult job,
it becomes easier after you’ve done it
a few times (and accidentally broken
the odd screen).
Another trap for young players is
to be aware of the connecting straps
linking the LCD panel and digitiser to
the main PCB. There may also be more
of these thin, flexible straps for things
such as cameras running between the
digitiser and the chassis, so just tearing
around the outside with a case opening tool and heat-gun runs the risk of
severing them.
Such connections are used a lot in
tablets and phones and they are relatively fragile. While they can take a
lot of flexing, they won’t survive tight
bends or nicks with a sharp-edged
tool. A wise serviceman will always
utilise resources such as Google and
YouTube for advice and even repair
walk-throughs uploaded by people
who’ve already done these repairs and
can warn of potential dangers.
The alternative way to remove a
broken digitiser is piecemeal. If it has
shards or pieces broken out of it, you
can use a sharp, strong tool to gently
pry between any gaps to lever other
broken pieces free. Once one piece is
out, you then move on to the next and
so on, working your way around the
edge. It pays to do this type of work
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February 2014 59
Serviceman’s Log – continued
The Faulty Air-Conditioner & The
Dusty Panasonic Plasma TV
How does a faulty air-conditioner
cause a problem in a TV? K. P., of
Dingley, Victoria, recently came
across an unusual problem in a Panasonic TV set. Here’s his story . . .
Sometimes the customer is right
even though you are initially sure
they aren’t. It started out with a
near neighbour who told me that her
air-conditioner was blowing out a
dusty mess each time it started. My
reaction was one of disbelief and I
began by explaining that this was
not possible, as it was a split system
with the fan totally isolated from the
outside air. However, she insisted
that it was making a mess and was
getting worse.
What’s more, if I didn’t believe
her, I could come and see for myself.
Well, it turned out that she was
dead right. As soon as the unit was
started, the normally tidy living
room was immediately covered in
dust. This was extremely puzzling
and there just had to be something
very unusual happening inside the
wall fan/evaporator assembly.
Loosening the unit from the wall
soon revealed that it wasn’t exactly
a “service-friendly” design. In fact,
it quickly became obvious that fully
removing it would result in a great
deal of angst and time-consuming
reassembly. So, after making a small
gap, I used a high-power torch
to light the suspect area and sure
enough, it was full of gunk.
So where had it all come from?
And how did it get to the fan? And
then came “eureka”; the torch lit
the surrounding area, revealing
that a lazy tradie had punched a
way-oversize hole in the gyprock
plasterboard for the coolant pipes.
The debris source wasn’t so clear
but it most likely came from a nearby
concrete crushing plant, the airborne
on a sheet on the workbench, as the
small shards of the damaged digitiser
end up getting everywhere and are
very sharp. A pair of work gloves and
eye protection are also vital, unless
you enjoy digging splinters out of your
fingers or eyeballs!
hard way is to test any new parts before finally fitting them. I once fitted a
new digitiser to a device only to find
that it was faulty, which meant that I
had to remove it all again. Keeping the
supplied heavy-duty screen-protectors
on is also prudent as the digitisers
are easily marked during fitting. Of
course, you do have to remember to
remove the inside one before sticking
everything down!
It may seem a lot of time and effort
taking on these devices but in business
one must adapt to survive and I intend
to be around for a while yet.
Fitting the digitiser
By contrast, fitting the new digitiser
is simplicity itself; the only precaution
is to make sure that the area is completely clean of old adhesive tape and
bits of broken glass. If it isn’t, you’ll
never seat the digitiser correctly and
not only will it look rippled and horrible, it may not work correctly either.
I use a rag soaked in methylated
spirits, turpentine or isopropyl alcohol
to clean the surface of the chassis and
to wipe any residue away. The new
digitiser usually has double-sided tape
already in place and all that is required
is to strip the protective covering off
before pressing it home. You only get
one shot at it so I always trial fit it
first, to make sure everything is where
it should be.
Another precaution I learned the
60 Silicon Chip
Samsung 226BW monitor
Regular contributor B. P. of Dun
dathu, Qld recently tackled a faulty
Samsung 226BW monitor he scroung
ed from a mate. Here’s his story . . .
I’m a regular visitor to my mate
Tim’s computer repair workshop and
on one occasion, he passed a Samsung
SyncMaster 226BW wide-screen monitor on to me. Apparently, the customer
had decided not to have it repaired,
despite the fact that it appeared to be
in excellent condition.
particles entering the roof and then
falling down the wall cavity to the
fan.
The gunk had adhered to all
surfaces, so I painstakingly cleaned
every blade of the barrel-fan with a
cloth on the end of a screwdriver.
Once that had been done, the holes
around the pipes were sealed.
But how does this relate to a faulty
flat-screen TV fault?
Well, my neighbour moved house
a few months later, taking her largescreen Panasonic TV set with her. It
had been a top-of-the-line set when
purchased, so it came as a surprise
when she told me that she was “going to give it away or send it to waste
disposal”.
Sure it had been run just about
all day for years but it was still an
excellent TV. When I asked why she
was getting rid of it, she replied that
the fans had become noisy. She obviously had fantastic hearing because
when I checked the set out, only a
slight noise was apparent to me at
close quarters and it seemed to be
quite acceptable.
However, she was adamant that it
was too noisy, so I removed the set’s
When I got it home, I immediately
decided to have a look at it. I plugged
it in, pressed the power button and
waited for something to happen. The
blue backlight on the power switch
came on but there didn’t appear to be
anything on the screen, at least not
initially.
Closer inspection of the screen then
revealed that the screen-saver was visible but it was so dull that it was almost
impossible to see! This indicated that
the inverter was not supplying power
to the backlighting.
This monitor is similar in construction to the 740N monitor I’d previously
repaired but is somewhat easier to
dismantle. First, with the monitor face
down on a cloth on the table, the stand
is removed by undoing three screws
and then sliding it out. That done, the
three screws along the bottom of the
monitor are removed and the monitor is then turned over and the front
moulding prised off.
It is then turned back face down
and the plastic back-shell lifted off.
A shield on the left-hand side is
then removed, followed by the four
siliconchip.com.au
These two photos show the dust build up inside the Panasonic set.
back and was stunned by what I saw.
Even though her house had always
been clean, the air-conditioner at
her old place had very effectively
distributed the airborne dust from
the crusher plant to the TV and everything inside the set was absolutely
covered with it.
It was literally the worst mess I’ve
ever seen inside a TV set.
The challenge now was to clean
the set up and I began by taking it
outside and blowing away most of
the gunk using and air-compressor
Of course, I pre-tested the airflow
from the nozzle first to determine
how close I could get without causing component damage. This was
then followed up with a dust down
using a soft paintbrush and then a
final quick blast from the compressor.
That done, I gave the set a thorough visual check and made sure
that the fans were perfectly clean. I
then left the set with its back off for
a full day to allow any moisture from
the compressor to dry out.
On switch on, everything was
perfect. It would be easy to to replace
the fans but they’re quiet again so
that appears to be unnecessary. And
so, a perfectly good set was saved
from landfill just by giving it a good
clean-up. It should have many years
of useful life ahead of it.
high-voltage connections to the backlighting and the front panel connector. This then allows the metal shell
housing the two boards to be lifted up
high enough to enable the removal of
the screen connector.
Next, I turned over the metal shell
and removed the three screws and the
small clip securing the power board
and lifted it high enough to disconnect
it from the video board. And when I
turned the power board over, I could
see three “dead” electrolytic capacitors: two 820µF 25V and one 330µF
25V. The domed bulges on the tops of
these capacitors were a dead give-away
that they had failed.
Next, I ran a few basic tests on the
power board. I expected the pico-fuse
to be open circuit, which would cause
the inverter to fail to power up, but it
was still intact. This made me think
that there might be some fault on the
power board that I would not be able
to locate, meaning that it would have
to be replaced. This monitor is newer
than the 740Ns I’d been repairing
previously and has a much larger
power board. As a result, it would
almost certainly be more expensive,
so I was hoping that I wouldn’t have
to replace it.
After replacing the three faulty electrolytics, I inspected the board closely
and I could see quite a few dry joints.
They were particularly bad on U302
and U303, which are 4511 ICs. The
dual-diode for the inverter supply also
looked suspicious.
As a result, I touched up all these
faulty connections and reworked the
connections on the three transformers
and the power FET for good measure.
I then re-connected the power board
and set the monitor up for testing.
When I pressed the power button, up
came the screen-saver. Whew!
I then re-assembled the monitor,
connected it to a PC and took a short
break while I waited for the computer
to boot up. When I returned, the monitor’s screen saver was on, indicating
that there was no signal.
This particular monitor has two
inputs: a DVI input and a VGA input.
I’d used the VGA connector because
the test computer didn’t have a DVI
output. Pressing a button labelled
siliconchip.com.au
“Source” on the monitor’s front panel
allowed me to select the correct signal
source and I was then greeted by the
Windows desktop.
Satisfied that the monitor was now
working correctly, I then took it inside
and showed it to my son who had
been asking for a wide-screen monitor
for some time. We connected it to his
computer using a DVI cable, selected a
DVI signal source and then, when the
computer booted, went into the Windows 7 settings and set the resolution
to 1680 x 1050 (the native resolution
of this 22-inch wide-screen monitor).
This was a big improvement over
the 1280 x 1024 resolution that he’d
previously been using on his 17-inch
Samsung 740N monitor and was just
the shot for the graphics programs he
works with.
Netgear 16-port switch
With the monitor under my belt,
I decided to take a look at my home
network. We’d been having a few unusual problems with this for a couple of
weeks and after some troubleshooting,
I eventually traced the problem to the
network’s 8-port switch.
The easiest solution was to simply
replace it, so I retrieved a Netgear 16port switch I’d scrounged some time
ago and connected it into place. Unfortunately, this new unit turned out to be
completely dead so I then substituted a
Linksys 16-port switch that had come
my way at the same time.
This time, it all worked, so that
solved the network problems. But
what was wrong with the 16-port
Netgear unit? It was time to see if if I
could get it working again.
First, I removed the front panel and
then the lid – a total of seven screws
in all. This revealed the inner workings of the unit which consists of four
separate PCB assemblies: two in a
piggyback arrangement, another on the
back of the front panel and finally the
one that I was interested in, the power
supply board. The latter supplies two
3.3VDC rails to the piggy-backed PCBs
via a 4-conductor cable with a plug at
each end.
The power supply PCB is a typical
switchmode unit and is easily removed from the case by removing four
screws and two plugs, one plug at the
AC end and the other at the DC end.
With the PCB removed from the unit,
I started by checking the ESRs of the
electrolytic capacitors and all were OK
February 2014 61
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Nearly 50 years ago, G. C. of Briar
Hill, Victoria was a soldier in Vietnam. Here’s how he tracked down a
puzzling fault in a vital piece of gear
known as a mortar locating radar . . .
The Serviceman’s Log article on
the Tektronix Model 422 Oscilloscope in the June 2013 issue brought
back many fond memories for me.
I was an electronics tradesman (a
radar mechanic) in the Australian
Army during the 1960s and oscilloscopes and the vacuum tube voltmeters (VTVMs) were the primary
diagnostic tools for repairing radar
sets. And the oscilloscope that I used
was a Tektronix Model 422.
The radar set that I worked on at
the time was a mortar (bomb) locating radar designed for the US Marine
Corps. To be more precise, it was an
AN/KPQ1 Mortar Locating Radar,
affectionately known as the ‘Q1’.
The Q1 had five antennas which
were used sequentially and the returns (ie, the strength of the signal
reflected off the mortar bomb during
flight) from each of the antennae
were compared to each other and
allowed the antenna assembly to
be driven to follow the bomb. The
angles of the antenna assembly (horizontal compared to grid north and
the vertical angle) and the range to
the bomb were fed into a computer
which, after eight seconds of “tracking” data, could be used to determine
where the bomb had come from.
The computer used a combination of analog and digital computing
techniques and the entire radar set
was powered by a diesel generator set
(gen-set) producing 110V, 3-phase at
400Hz. The 400Hz supply allowed
for the use of much smaller (and
lighter) electric motors to drive the
antenna assembly than a 50Hz or
60Hz supply would. In addition, it
allowed for smaller motors in the
various fans used to cool the six
modules of the radar set.
The gen-set was driven by a Buck
nell single-cylinder diesel motor
and the vibration this motor produced played havoc with its own
mechanical items (the fuel pump, in
particular) and the regulation circuit
of the generator. The gen-set’s field
control device (a germanium power
transistor, from memory) would go
short circuit and the 110V supply
would instantaneously rise to over
300V. As can be imagined, the radar
set didn’t like this one little bit and
it would be out of action for several
days while I and my fellow radar mechanics tracked down and repaired
the damage.
Parts for the Bucknell gen-set were
very hard to obtain in the mid-1960s
and so a different type of gen-set was
sourced from Australia (you may
have guessed by now that I was in
South Vietnam at the time). Several
new gen-sets subsequently arrived
just before Christmas and we put
them to use immediately; well almost immediately.
The original Bucknell gen-set had
open screw terminals to accept the
power lead connections. The power
lead was terminated in a triangular
potted block with each of the four
wires separated and colour coded.
Basically, the radar operator had to
make sure he connected each coloured wire to a matching coloured
terminal on the gen-set.
In order to install the new gen-sets,
our first job was to cut off the potted
blocks (we had three radars) and connect a new 4-pin plug to each of the
power cables. As a result, we opened
the power panel of one of the new
gen-sets and checked the colour coding of the wires to it’s output socket,
then wired all our power cable plugs
to match.
The new gen-set had a VW Industrial petrol motor as its drive source
and the US-supplied gasoline was
heavily leaded. The result was that
the spark plugs “carboned up” after
about 48 hours of continuous running, no matter how hard our vehicle
mechanics tried to tune the petrol
motors. Fortunately, we had four of
the new gen-sets, which meant that
a swap-over could be implemented
while the spark plugs in the off-line
unit were cleaned and reset.
That’s all by way of background
and everything worked fine until
one of the radars developed a fault.
There was very little hostile mortar
action at the time but the radar sets
were run continuously, just in case.
The sets were tested once a day, just
to make sure they were ready.
A test of the Q1’s tracking capability involved “locking-on” to a passing helicopter or transport aircraft.
Anyway, a fault pattern developed
in one of the radars; every now and
again, the radar would “drive off”
the target aircraft and cease tracking.
This puzzled the operators and they
(rightly) demanded that we “fix” the
problem.
My boss and two fellow radar
mechanics subsequently spent many
hours trying to diagnose this fault. It
so happened that the other two Q1s
had been taken off line for other
problems (obtaining parts for the
radar sets was also difficult at the
time), so it was imperative that this
particular radar set be kept working.
What was puzzling was that the
“fault” would mysteriously fix itself
and that meant we had an intermittent fault to find.
One night, I got the task of working
on it. My boss and one of the other
radar mechanics had worked on the
Q1 all afternoon and so, after the
evening meal, I took over trying to
diagnose the problem. There were
no aircraft flying around after dark
but there was a steel radio mast about
5km away and this was perfect for
displaying the fault. When the fault
wasn’t there, the antenna assembly
would rock-solidly lock-on to the
except for C3 (47µF 25V) which was
a little high. However, I didn’t think
that it was unreasonably high for such
a low-value capacitor, so I moved on
to checking other components.
After testing Q1 (a FET) and CR1 (a
dual diode), I then checked the small
diodes and I could find nothing wrong.
I then decided to replace IC1, which is
a UC3843AN Current Mode Controller
but this proved fruitless, as the unit
was still dead afterwards.
Intermittent fault in a Vietnam-era
mortar locating radar
62 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
mast. And when the fault was present, it would loose the lock.
As previously stated, each of
the five antennae was used in a sequence. The microwave power was
switched to each antenna by a rotary
switch and a magnetic pick-up on
the switch body was used to trigger
the transmitter once the appropriate
waveguide (to the antenna about to
be used) was open.
Basically, a steel pin on the rotational part of the switch would
trigger the unit when it passed the
end of the pick-up. And as can be
imagined, it was quite important for
the rotating switch to be in the right
position when you are dealing with
a 140kW pulse of microwave energy.
We had already determined that
something was happening to the timing of these pulses but we couldn’t
determine what it was that would
cause the radar antenna assembly
to be driving away from the target.
The valve-based circuit we were
concentrating on had to amplify the
pulses and square them up for their
leading edge to trigger the magnetron
transmitter. The circuit also had to
create five non-overlapping monostable pulse channels which were used
to “gate” the returned echo (signal) to
the appropriate mixing and strength
comparison circuits. These circuits,
in turn, produced the drive voltages
to operate the two antenna drive
motors in the horizontal and vertical planes.
Our theory was that the timing
of the channel pulses was being
changed somehow, so that the returned echo was either being gated
to the wrong comparator or gated to
more than one comparator at a time.
That’s where the Tektronix Model
422 Oscilloscope comes into the
picture. It had been set up to trigger on the pulses from the magnetic
pick-up, so that we could observe
the waveforms all the way through
to the comparator circuits. There was
also a second magnetic pick-up on
the rotary switch and it was used to
indicate the start of a sequence. It
provided one pulse for every five
from the other magnetic pick-up.
Fortunately, by chance, I connected the scope’s trigger to this
latter pulse instead of the pick-up
to trigger the transmitter and got a
strange result – the channel pulses
were occurring in the reverse order.
Basically, the channel two pulse occurred before the channel one pulse,
the channel three pulse occurred
before channel two and so on.
When I saw this, I could hardly
believe what was happening; I was
so used to observing the correct position of each of channel’s pulses as I
moved the probe to each channel in
turn, that having the pulses “move”
backwards was mind boggling. I
moved the probe from channel to
channel for quite some time to make
sure I wasn’t dreaming before eventually coming to the conclusion that
the rotary switch had to be running
backwards. I couldn’t understand
why it would be doing this but to
check my theory, I swapped two of
the wires on the 3-phase motor driving the rotary switch and bingo, the
antenna assembly stayed locked on
to the radio mast.
I raced over and got my boss and
told him that I knew what the problem was but I couldn’t explain why it
occurred. I say “raced” but it wasn’t
quite like that. I had to get clearance
from the Task Force Headquarters
to allow me to move from one area
to another after dark, otherwise you
could get into serious trouble, not
the least of which was to be shot at
by your own side.
We thought the problem over and
suddenly the penny dropped; the
problem must have occurred after a
changeover to one of the new gensets. Their phase rotation based on
the colour of their wiring hadn’t been
standardised; some of the new gensets had their phase rotation correct
for the Q1 radars but at least one
didn’t. As a result, using a generator
with the wrong phase rotation was
the cause of the radar’s antenna assembly driving away from the target
lock-on and this also explained why
the fault subsequently mysteriously
disappeared, ie, at the next generator
changeover.
We hadn’t associated this change
over with the problem, as that function was always handled by the radar
operators and they hadn’t realised
either. Standardising the wiring on
our four gen-sets cured the “fault”
and we also advised the generator
purchasing people in Australia of the
problem so that future units would
also be standardised.
So that was the answer to a very
puzzling problem. After 46 years,
I can still visualise the AN/KPQ1
Mortar Locating Radar’s five channel
pulses on the screen of that Tektronix
Model 422 oscilloscope.
Feeling somewhat exasperated by
now, my next step was remove C8
(10nF greencap) and electrolytic capacitor C3 from the PCB and check
them further. C8 tested fine and C3
was well within tolerance at 44µF
but, as previously stated, its ESR was
a little high.
I reinstalled C8 on the PCB but
decided to replace C3, even though it
didn’t seem to be too far out of spec.
I then reconnected the power supply
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 63
Serviceman’s Log – continued
and tested the unit again and it now
worked, so C3 had been the culprit
all along. It would appear that this
electrolytic capacitor in this particular location is highly critical and the
slightly high ESR reading was enough
to prevent the power supply from
working.
This also indicated that the original
UC3843AN IC was quite OK. However,
I wasn’t going to go to the trouble of
removing the new one and refitting the
old one just to verify this. It simply
wasn’t worth the effort for the small
cost of the IC and if the old one did
prove to be faulty, it would then be
necessary to remove it and refit the
new one again.
With the power supply now working again, I reassembled the unit and
reconnected it in place of the Linksys
unit. I then checked the network out
and found that it was working correctly so that’s another piece of “junk”
that has been saved from landfill.
I didn’t bother swapping the Linksys
unit back in. Instead, I simply left the
Netgear switch in place and put the
Linksys unit away as a working spare.
Faulty air-conditioner
A. F. of Kingscliff, NSW recently
tackled an unusual fuse fault in an airconditioner. Here’s what happened . . .
I enjoy repair work, mainly because
of the challenge and the fact that I
never know what I will find when I
accept a job. Sometimes though, when
a repair is done, I’m left in a situation
where I’m not exactly sure why the
fault occurred. And that leaves me
feeling uneasy that the fault (and possibly an irate customer) might return.
That was certainly the situation
with a faulty air-conditioner I recently
encountered. It had a blown fuse and
in all such cases, I automatically assume that there is probably a faulty
component somewhere which caused
the fuse to blow.
The customer assured me that the
unit had functioned for a few seconds
immediately after start-up, during
which time the flaps on the wall unit
half opened. At that point, everything
stopped and the air-conditioner was
completely “dead”.
My initial investigations revealed
that this was a split system, with the
compressor unit mounted outside in
the garden and the evaporator/condenser unit mounted on the wall in
the living room. The wall unit would
not respond to the remote control
and a quick check of the meter box
showed that the the circuit breaker
hadn’t tripped.
Next, I removed the inspection cover
from the side of the compressor unit
to reveal the mains terminal strip and
found that there was approximately
230VAC on the Active terminals. From
there, four cables enclosed in conduit,
headed off under the house, in the
direction of the wall unit. So the next
port of call would be the wall unit.
Removing the covers on the wall
unit was easy. Once they were off, I
could see that the four cables from
the compressor unit were connected
to a small PCB which was sandwiched
between the motors and the end casing. It wasn’t possible to see much of
this board, so I turned the power off,
marked each connector to ensure it
went back to its original position, and
extracted the board from its hidden
location.
It didn’t seem to be particularly
complicated and consisted of a mains
transformer to step down the voltage
to the circuit board, a relay which was
connected to the 230V and sundry
other parts. I took it outside to look for
burnt or deformed components and a
2A M205 fast-blow fuse immediately
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so, why not send those stories in to us? In doesn’t
matter what the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the electronics
or electrical industries, to computers or even to car electronics.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
64 Silicon Chip
caught my eye. A quick check with a
meter confirmed that it had blown.
The job now was to track down the
faulty component that had caused the
fuse to blow. I soon spotted a large metal oxide varistor on the board which
appeared to have a large black crack
across it. I immediately de-soldered
it but my multimeter did not show a
low reading.
When I took a close at it through
a magnifying glass, it became apparent that the “crack” was raised above
the surface of the MOV. So the crack
wasn’t a crack after all and when I
rubbed it with my finger, it rolled off
the surface in the form of a line of glue.
I re-measured the MOV and it seemed
OK so I refitted it.
Next, I checked the other components but could find no reason for the
fuse to blow. Eventually, I ran out of
things to check, so I replaced the fuse
and refitted the board to the wall unit
but with no plugs connected. I then
switched the power back on and hurriedly ran inside to check the board.
There was no apparent drama, so
I now powered down the mains and
fitted the connector for the ON/OFF
circuit board. Again I applied power
without drama and found that I could
now operate the ON/OFF LED with
the remote control so I powered the
unit down again and plugged in the
connector for the flaps. The flaps could
now be made to open and close in the
normal manner, so it was time to test
the remaining functions in stages.
I reconnected the left/right airflow
stepper motor and this also worked
OK. Likewise with the centrifugal
fan motor and finally the relay which
caused the compressor motor to run.
At this point, the whole system was
working again and blowing cold air.
So what had caused the 2A fuse to
blow? I couldn’t find the reason but my
guess is that it was the accumulation of
the fuse being some 10 years old, the
tin-plated copper fuse wire oxidising
and the fact that it was mounted vertically and was subjected to vibration
from several nearby motors. Together,
these factors gradually weakened the
fuse mechanically until eventually
it blew.
The unit has operated without
fault for some six months now but
it’s impossible to say if or when the
fuse will fail again. Hopefully, it was
just mechanical failure due to age and
SC
vibration.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 65
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Audio decibel meter uses logarithmic converter
This circuit converts an AC input
signal in the range of 3µV to 400V
(in three ranges) to produce a voltage equal to the decibel figure of
that signal (dBV; ie, 1V = 0dB) as
a voltage at the output, scaled as
1mV = 1dB. So in other words, if the
input signal is -10dBV, the output
will read -10mV. Most meters will
read the average voltage and thus
give the average decibel level of the
input signal.
It works as follows. Rotary switch
S1 selects one of three ranges. Position 1 is for signals in the range of
-110dBV (3µV) to -48dBV (4mV), position 2 for signals of -56dBV (3mV)
to +2dBV (1.3V) and position 3 for
signals 0dB (1V) to +52dB (400V).
In positions 2 & 3, the input signal
is attenuated by resistive/capacitive dividers to suit the following
circuitry while in position 1, the
signal is amplified by IC1.
In each case, the input impedance is set to 1MΩ; in the case of
positions 2 & 3, this is determined
by the divider resistor values while
for position 1, this is achieved by
means of bootstrapping the input of
IC1. This means that the signal from
its pin 6 output is coupled back to
its pin 3 input, such that most of the
current required to drive this input
actually comes from the op amp’s
output and not the signal source.
IC1 is configured for a gain of 100.
The second pole of rotary switch
S1b then selects the appropriate
amplified or attenuated version of
the input signal to pass on to the
input of buffer op amp IC2. This
then feeds the signal to IC3 which
is configured for a gain of 20, giving
an overall gain of 2000 when S1 is
in position 1, 6.33 in position 2 and
0.02 (ie, 1/50th) in position 3.
The amplified signal is then rect
ified by op amps IC4b and IC4a
which are configured as a precision
rectifier. The output voltage of this
rectifier is negative and is equal in
magnitude to the input voltage (ie,
the output of IC3a). Potentiometers
VR2 and VR3 are used to trim out
any offset error in IC4a and IC4b, so
that with no signal, the output is as
close to 0V as possible.
This negative rectified voltage
is then applied to the logarithmic
converter which consists of PNP
transistors Q1 & Q2 and op amps
IC5a & IC5b. This takes advantage
of the well-defined exponential relationship between the base voltage
and collector current in a bipolar
transistor and its output is a voltage,
which is the natural logarithm (ie,
log base e) of the input voltage.
However, as the name suggests,
co nt ri bu ti on
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66 Silicon Chip
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decibels use a base-10 logarithm.
Since the input is in volts, while
power is proportional to the square
of voltage (decibels are a measure
of power), the actual formula to
calculate dBV is 20log10V where V
is the input voltage.
Luckily, as anyone who has used
a slide rule can tell you, converting
between different base logarithms is
simply a matter of applying a scale
factor. In this case, it is a scale factor
of 0.4343 or 1/loge10. This ratio is
set by the ratio of the 100kΩ resistor
at the collector of Q2 to the 200kΩ
resistor at the collector of Q1 and
100kΩ series trimpot VR3.
Thus, with VR3 adjusted to give
the correct ratio, the output of IC5a
is scaled to be a base-10 logarithm
rather than a natural logarithm.
So for example the output will be
-2V for an input of -10mV, -1V for
an input of -100mV and 0V for an
input of 1V.
Reference diode IC6 is used to
provide temperature compensation
for the logarithmic converter. This is
necessary because the base-emitter
voltages of Q1 & Q2 vary with temperature. IC6’s output voltage varies
in a similar manner and so these tend
to cancel out.
The output of the logarithmic
converter is inverted by IC5b and
then inverted again by IC5c, which
also adds a fixed voltage to it, from
the common terminal of S1c. This
means that the correct number of
decibels are added to the result to
compensate for the selected input
amplifier/attenuator.
Finally, the output voltage is divided by a factor of 50 (ie, 1000 ÷ 20)
by the 4.9kΩ/100Ω output divider
to give a result with a scale of 1db
= 1mV. In other words, we need a
20mV change in the output voltage
for each 1V change in output of the
logarithmic converter, as per the
formula provided earlier.
To set the unit up, first adjust VR1
and VR2 to get 0V at the output of
IC4b and IC4a with no input signal.
siliconchip.com.au
–15V
–
VR6
5k
15k
1k
5.6nF
6
5
IC3b
3.9pF
1W
VC2
3.5-20pF
VC1
1.8-7pF
1M
K
A
D1, D2: 1N4148
E
3mV TO 1.3V
0 TO +52
3
1V TO 400V
–56 TO +2
2
3 µV TO 4mV
–110 TO –48
OUTPUT RANGE (dBV) INPUT RANGE (V)
1
MEASUREMENT RANGES
1k
IC5d
12
13
7
330k
712k
(680k +
33k)
3
400V
INPUT
100nF
S1 RANGE
1k
14
1nF
–
+
IC6
LM336
–2.5
18k
3
2
2
1
B
3
+15V
15k
E
E
B
Q1
BC557B
200k
VR3 100k (25T)
200Ω
S1b
1
20k
S1a
180Ω
VR5
5k
+0.8V
2
68k
6.8k
470Ω
1k
IC5a
3
B
C
C
Q2
BC557B 2
100k
(1.8k + 2.0k)
+15V
–15V
4
12pF
47 µF
22Ω
120k
C
91k
S1c
1
+3.3V
VR4
5k
5
1
IC1: NE5534
16k
3.8k
–15V
2
4
IC3a
1
2
–15V
4
–1.7V
91k
–15V
11
IC5c
9
91k
7
IC5b
6
39k
270Ω
A
IC2: TL071
D2
IC4b
5
6
2.2k
22 µF
8
3
IC2
3
7
6
–15V
–15V
6
IC1
2
7
3
BC5 5 7
4.9k
4
10
39k
IC3, IC4: LM833 IC5: TL074
560k
K
2.2k
–15V
100nF
100nF
100nF
100Ω
(4.7k + 200 Ω)
8
–15V
VR1
20k
–15V
270Ω
4
2.2k
A
7
D1
K
–15V
560k
1
10k
3
2
IC4a
22.2k
(20k + 2.2k)
8
–15V
100nF
10pF
VR2
20k
+
OUTPUT
1mV/dB
+15V
20k
siliconchip.com.au
Malcolm S
harp
is this mon
th’s winner
of a $150 g
ift vouche
Hare & Forb r from
es
That done, apply an AC signal to the
input and adjust its amplitude until the
output of IC4a gives -10mV and adjust
VR3 so that the output of IC5a is 2V.
VR4-VR6 are then set to give the specified voltage at each wiper while VC1 &
VC2 are adjusted to give the best square
wave at the output of IC2 for a square
wave input in each range.
When set up correctly, at room temperature, output accuracy is ±0.5dB over
a 150dB range. Below -106dB, the output
is likely to read high.
Note that since measurement averaging
is done by the meter used to measure the
output, which is after the log conversion,
accuracy will depend on the shape of the
waveform and whether the meter is an
averaging or true RMS type.
Malcolm Sharp,
Berala, NSW.
February 2014 67
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE-based
garage door controller
Cheap USB-powered
PCB drill
A USB keyboard vacuum cleaner
from a bargain store (£1 Shops in
the UK) can be modified to make a
handy PCB drill. First, untwist and
discard the nozzle, then remove the
dust filter and O-ring. Next, open
the casing by removing three screws
and trim off the support for the dust
filter.
Now remove the impeller and trim
off the vanes. That done, push a 6mm
length of sleeving over the shank of
the twist drill bit and push the drill
bit into the 2mm hole in the remains
of the impeller.
A piece of 1.6 mm heatshrink tube
can be used to build up the drill
shank if it is a loose fit. Check that
the drill bit runs true and concentric
and then reinforce it with epoxy
adhesive. As a bonus, these little
vacuum cleaners have a white LED
and two speed settings.
The rear bearing of the motor may
be plastic so use only light drilling
pressure and a 0.7mm or 0.8mm
drill; maximum 1mm. The transistor
can be removed from the internal
PCB if you only require single speed
operation.
John Russull,
Tottenham, UK. ($40)
Minimum speed adjustment for
Induction Motor Speed Controller
This small modification to the
external speed control pot on the
Induction Motor Speed Controller
(SILICON CHIP. April & May 2012)
was made to give better operation
with a roof-mounted evaporative
air-conditioner. This has a Fasco
809454QVB-A14 750W motor.
The problem with the external
speed control pot was that members
of the family had a habit of running
the motor too slowly. This resulted
in ineffective cooling, both to the
home and the motor. It also resulted
in an annoying “cogging” noise from
the motor.
To eliminate this problem, the
external speed pot circuit was modified to incorporate a minimum speed
trimpot. Now, no matter how low
the main speed control is set, it will
never go below the minimum setting.
68 Silicon Chip
CON4
VR1
5k
LIN
+3.3V
GND
Vin
VR2
10k
The modification involves replacing the 10kΩ external potentiometer
with a linear 5kΩ potentiometer
and wiring it in series with a 10kΩ
trimpot, as shown in the diagram.
Setting up is easy. Firstly, measure
between the top of the new speed
pot and the bottom of the trimpot
and adjust the trimpot to obtain a
total resistance of 10kΩ (ie, the same
resistance as the original circuit).
Connect the assembly to the speed
controller, set the main speed pot
to its minimum speed position and
This garage door opener project
uses a car windscreen wiper motor driving bicycle sprockets and
a chain to automatically open and
close a garage roller door.
The PICAXE14M2 (IC1) monitors
a number of input devices. A remote
control circuit can be connected to
pins 6 & 7 while the pushbuttons
connect to pins 4 & 5. Limit switches
S3 & S4 (limiting the door travel at
top and bottom) connect to pins 10
& 11. The door motor “stall” detector
circuit compares the voltage levels
on pins 3 & 12 and these are configured as analog inputs.
The pushbutton and limit switch
inputs have pull-up resistors enabled inside the PICAXE microprocessor, eliminating external resistors. The upper and lower limit
switch inputs include optocouplers
to reduce electrical noise transfer
from the wiring. These limits are
wall-mounted microswitches operated by a semi-ridged plastic strip
attached to the door. The open and
close buttons mount on the control
box and require “snap action” contacts.
The stall detector circuit uses the
sense input on pin 12 to measure the
voltage drop across a 0.22Ω resistor
in series with the door motor. This
voltage is compared with the voltage
level at the “set” input (pin 3) which
is set by trimpot VR1.
The trimpot is adjusted so that the
door closes normally but stops and
then reverses if obstructed. There is
start the motor. Then adjust the
trimpot to the minimum speed you
require.
The maximum speed is still
maximum when you turn the main
speed pot fully clockwise but the
low speed will not go below your
pre-set speed when turned to its
lowest position. I find I can adjust
it from about 10% of maximum
speed to 100%. I have set mine to
a minimum of about 45% which
gives a gentle breeze on low and a
hurricane on high!
Peter Clarke,
Woodcroft, SA. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
B
C
0V
BC 33 7
E
STALL
SENSE
LEDS
10k
K
A
ZD1
3.4V
E
B
ZD1
E
K
A
2
4
λ
5
ICSP
HEADER
0V
14
PB0/ 13
SerO
12
PB1
PC4
2 PC5/
SerIN
PB2
10
11
PC3
PC1
10k
22k
3
5
4
6
CLO SE
PC0
7
CLOSE
0V
RX
MODULE
ANT
+5V
S1
OPEN
S2
VR1
5k
STALL
SET
4.7k
OPEN
PC2
IC1
PICAXE
–14M 2
PB4
PB3
9
8
PB5
+V
1
UPPER
LIMIT
LOWER
LIMIT
S3
1
OPTO1
4N28
1k
1k
1k
GND
IN
OUT
7805
10 µF
16V
100nF
D1–D4: 1N4004
4
S4
2
1
λ
OPTO2
4N28
5
B
1k
1k
GND
470 µF
16V
GND
A
1 µF
TANT
Q3
BC337
K
A
C
150Ω
λ
λ
K
A
K
LED
LAMP
(WHITE
LEDS)
A
λ
K
K
A
RLY2 CLOSE
Q2
BC337
C
A
K
D2
D3
B
K
A
E
C
1000 µF
25V
Q1
BC337
RLY1 OPEN
0.22Ω
5W
FUSE1
10A
MOTOR
+12V
A
D4
K
A
D1
K
IN
OUT
REG1 7805
+5V
a short delay while the motor starts,
before the “sense” input voltage is
checked.
The PICAXE14M2 (IC1) drives
a number of output devices. The
open and close relays are controlled
via transistors Q1 & Q2, driven by
pins 8 & 9. The LED courtesy lamp
is controlled via transistor Q3 and
pin13. An ICSP header is included
to program the microprocessor using
pin 13 as the serial output and pin
2 as the serial input signal.
The open relay (RLY1) and close
relay (RLY2) reverse the motor voltage to control direction. While the
door is stopping, the relay contacts
short the motor terminals to act as a
brake. The prototype unit used SY4050 relays from Jaycar with 12V DC
coils and 10A contacts.
The courtesy lamp stays on for
three minutes each time the garage
door opens or closes and contains a
series string of three high-intensity
white LEDs and a 150Ω current limiting resistor. The white LEDs each
give a narrow beam of light that is
best reflected off the garage wall.
The door operator is powered
by a 12V car battery or sealed lead
acid battery (SLA) which is required
to supply around 5A to the motor.
While the circuit shows a remote
control receiver, we should point
out that any garage door controller
ideally should have a rolling code
remote (see SILICON CHIP, August &
September 2009).
The battery should be tricklecharged with a 14-16V DC supply.
Many 12V DC (300-500mA) plugpacks will provide sufficient voltage
when lightly loaded. Select a suitable 5W series resistor to keep the
fully-charged battery under 13.8V
DC. The in-line 10A fuse protects
the motor should a fault prevent
the “stall” detector working. Motor
surges on the power supply rails are
decoupled using diodes D1 & D4 and
their associated capacitors.
Finally, the PICAXE14M2 (IC1)
microprocessor is programmed
using the (ICSP) header and a special PICAXE serial or USB cable to
download the gdopener_14m2.bas
program. This software will be available on the SILICON CHIP website.
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($60)
February 2014 69
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10W 12V DC (115 x 135 x 84mm)
Wireless Bluetooth connection to your smartphone or tablet
music library. 16mm micro-miniature in-built speakers provide outstanding reproduction, with surprisingly deep bass.
Plus it's even got an FM tuner, 2.2Ah heavy duty battery
bank and Micro-SD card music player built in!
SAVE 25%
Super tough aluminium case! 300 Lumens output. Flashing
mode and adjustable beam width. Requires 3xD batteries
(S 4926 2pk $7.15). 335mm long.
Detect Lethal AC Voltages Without Contact
Super
tough
steel case!
NEW!
M 8893
24.95
$
NEW!
M 8894
Q 2200
32K Bit
NEW!
Thousands sold to
Australia’s premier
builders!
36ea
$
With surge
protected
outlets!
High Current 3.5A Dual USB Mains Charger
With pass through 240V socket so you don’t lose an outlet!
Great for keeping your phone & tablet charged. Mains
surge circuitry protects your appliances from damaging
power fluctuations.
Brilliant 9W LED Lighting Kits
SAVE 20%
Equivalent to a 50W halogen globe with X 2086 Warm white
X 2088 Neutral white
only 1/8th of the power consumption.
Complete kit with lamp, gymbal fitting and transformer for an
amazing price. These lamps will not disappoint, they have
excellent light output, colour and clarity. Ideal for new house
installs or plug in replacement upgrades for MR-16 lighting.
35,000hr Sharp® LED
70-90mmØ cutout
60° beam
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
ilicon
Chip
» 70 S
Springvale
VIC: 891
Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
Q 2204
128K Bit
Compact & Efficient
Bench Top Power Supplies
Price breakthrough! These quality units
are great for servicing, repair and design
of electronics. Low noise switchmode
design. Fine/coarse voltage and current
controls. Size: 85Wx160Hx205Dmm.
Saves space on your
work bench!
M 8305 0-30V 5A
M 8303 0-30V 3A
189
159
$
$
NEW!
Premium 12V SLA Batteries
Great for security, solar power systems,
UPS, comms gear etc.
Part
Normally
2 For...
1.3Ah
S 5075B
$19.95
$30
3.3Ah
S 5080
$29.80
$40
4.5Ah
Non-contact AC detector with LED light. Essential for working with AC wiring. Lights up when near any AC source
(100-600V <at> 50-60Hz). Fits right in your pocket.
TM
21.95
SAVE 20%
Q 3002
Q 2022
$
15
$
NEW!
NEW!
$
Tests 13 types of leads for continuity. A real time saver!
Tests: 6.35mm, DIN (3/5/7/8
pin), RCA, XLR (3/5 pin),
Speakon (4P/8P), RJ45, USB &
banana.
37
5W LED Aluminium Adjustable Torch
Great for electricians
‘Roadies’ Cable Tester
$
SAVE 15%
X 0215
549
$
First batch sold
Dynalink® Pocket Jukebox
in just 4 weeks.
- an absolute masterpiece!
Capacity
S 5084
$27.95
$48
7.2Ah
S 5090B
$29.95
$52
12Ah
S 5098
$59
$90
Reliable, long
life 12V power
for your project!
Not just for PC’s.
Great for CCTV,
home theatre
& phone systems
D 0873
149
$
SAVE $20
Emergency 240V Backup Power Supply.
Powershield Safeguard 750VA UPS. This quality UPS unit will prevent
appliance damage caused by power fluctuations or blackouts - PLUS
keep power on during a blackout! Also equipped with RJ45 phone line
surge protection. 2 year warranty.
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
siliconchip.com.au
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
Get more audio visual gear for your dollar!
Remote control from your iOS or Android device
A 2696
319
SAVE $80
Access over 14,000 internet radio stations from your hi-fi!
$
A complete wireless mic system with your
choice of handheld or lapel/beltpack mic.
• Plugs into existing PA systems • Crisp
vocal reproduction • Ideal for clubs,
restaurants & wedding
ceremonies. Up to
70m range.
$
This stylish wireless internet radio player will perfectly compliment your existing AV system. It provides you with access to DAB+
digital radio stations, plus virtually any internet radio station or podcast via wireless internet (no computer required!). Plus it can
stream music stored on your PC via UPnP. Size: 430x90x285mm.
SAVE 15%
C 8867B Handheld Pack
C 8868B Beltpack Pack
With 2 USB outputs!
With Infra-Red
Learning
225
16 Channel UHF Wireless
Mic Systems
229
$
NEW!
A 0977A
24
$
SAVE 19%
Jumbo 4 In 1 Remote Control
• Great for the kids! • Each button is about
the size of a 20c coin! • Pre-programmed
with 1000’s of codes, plus IR learning
• Requires 2xAA batteries • Size: 284 x
128mm.
54.95
10 Way AV Power Protection Board
NEW!
P 8268
Latest model!
C 9045
44.95
$
NEW!
Lightweight Over Ear Headphones
A great pair of commuter headphones with
semi-open design offering excellent noise
isolation and low noise leakage.
Featuring USB/SD card playback with easy to use controls. All channels
feature balanced XLR, unbalanced 6.35mm, insert inputs, high/mid/low
adjustment, pan & gain effects level. Channels 5 & 6 are combined on
the one fader/controls. Includes power supply.
89
$
With IR remote. Designed to switch between four full HD
sources. Ethernet, digital & stereo audio may be split from
the HDMI signal. Up to 1080p. Includes plugpack.
Stunning Home Hi-Fi In
Ceiling/Wall Speakers
SAVE $20
A 3081B
Add superb presence and clarity to
your home sound system with these
8” (200mm) low profile speakers.
Aluminium grilles are suitable for
mounting in sheltered outdoor
alfresco and entertaining areas.
100 Watts. Sold in pairs.
Slim Line Articulated
TV Wall Bracket
Designed to fold flat against the
wall - only 45mm deep! 520mm
when fully retracted. 42” max TV
size. 25kg max weight. 20° tilt.
Max 400x400mm VESA mount
139
219
$
$
SAVE $20
A 2651
Top Value 6 Channel Mixer With USB Playback
Dynalink® 4 Way HDMI Switcher
Clear & natural
sound reproduction.
Ideal size for
bands,
theatre &
small venues.
$
Cheap insurance for your valuable home theatre - with
surge protection up to 52,000A. Dual USB sockets for
charging your devices, plus phone & aerial protection.
SAVE $80
HOT SELLER!
C 0883 Round
H 8147
249
$
SAVE $80
Easy flip-lock
installation!
C 0881 Rectangular
NEW! Indoor & Outdoor Strip Lighting
Outdoor IP65 LED Strip Lighting
Back in stock! Secure yours
before they sell out again.
Highlight features in your home, under
kitchen benches, cupboards & shelves.
Outdoor models are great for cars, caravans
& entertaining areas. Easy to cut to length
or solder together for longer runs.
Available per metre or 5m reels.
Indoor LED Strip Lighting
Two chip sizes - 3528 (medium brightness) or
5050 (high brightness). Backed by 3M
adhesive tape. Can be cut every 3 LEDs (or
50mm). 12V DC.
Colour
Warm White 3528
X 3200
1m
$12.00
White 3528
X 3202
Warm White 5050
X 3208 $22.50
White 5050
Follow <at>AltronicsAU
siliconchip.com.au
Part
www.facebook.com/Altronics
X 3210
$12.00
$22.50
5m Roll
$48.75
$48.75
$100
$100
Express Order
Hotlines:
Two chip sizes - 3528 (medium brightness) or
5050 (high brightness). Backed by 3M
adhesive tape and encased in flexible plastic.
Can be cut every 3 LEDs (or 50mm). 12V DC.
Important: To maintain weatherproof seal,
end caps must be fitted on cut edges.
X 3225 IP65 3528 end caps: $2.50pr
X 3224 IP65 5050 end caps: $2.50pr
Colour
Warm White 3528
Part
X 3204
1m
$15.00
5m Roll
RGB LED Strip Lighting
Not just red, green and blue - offers up to 16
different colours with adjustable brightness,
colour change rate & effects. 5050 chip size.
Backed by 3M adhesive tape. Can be cut every
3 LEDs (or 50mm). 12V DC.
Part
ea (m)
5m Roll
RGB IP28 Indoor
Type
X 3213
$27
$120
RGB IP65 Outdoor
X 3214
$32
$144
$67.50
Add-Ons
Part
Controller & Remote
X 3218
$14.95
ea
White 3528
X 3206
$15.00
$67.50
Warm White 5050
X 3211
$28.00
$125
Lead & End Cap For X 3213
X 3220
$5.95
$125
Lead & End Cap For X 3214
X 3221
$7.95
White 5050
X 3212
$28.00
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
February 2014 71
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
Great hand tools...
Pay less for the latest workbench gear!
Upgrade today!
12.95
$
NEW!
T 2750A
125mm Precision Side Cutters
12.95
$
27
NEW!
With sharp bevelled edge for cutting component
legs and wire up to 1.6mm. Spring return.
Upgrade today!
NEW!
99
$
Tip has inbuilt
LED lamp.
.95
$
T 2630 Iron & Cartridge.
T 2699
125W Iroda Portable Gas Cartridge Tool
Amazing USB Powered Soldering Iron!
This lightweight unit is perfect for occasional soldering
jobs with surprisingly good performance. Includes adaptor for running from a 9V battery and sponge. Fitted with
ultrafine tip capable of temperatures up to 480°C!
Check out the YouTube video online.
T 2760A Serrated
T 2770A Flat Jaw
169
$
65
$
T 2631 Full Kit
NEW!
Ideal for precision use in electronics, twisting
wire, component removal etc. Spring return.
• Powered by refillable butane cartridge • Totally wireless operation - No need to
run extension leads • Super tough design will last for years • Easy to light, oneclick piezo ignition • High reliability long life tips
• Blow torch & soldering iron in one
• 2 year warranty
This kit version of the T 2630 includes hot air tip,
heat deflector, additional gas cartridge, solder,
sponge and hard carry case (T 2631). Powers on
for up to 4 hours from a full tank of gas!
T 2178
140mm Long Nose Pliers
SAVE $20
To buy these parts
separately would set
you back over $200!
119
$
SAVE $40
T 1568A
Changes
jaws in
seconds!
SAVE 22%
Every crimp tool you’ll ever need in one kit!
Quick & easy modular crimping
Ratchet Modular Crimper & Stripper
Crimps 4/6/8 way modular connectors with
ease! All metal construction, sure to last in your
tool box. Stripper & cutter built into the handle.
29
.95
$
T 1575
With 10 sets of magnetic jaws to suit all manner of plugs,
including; insulated kwik crimps, uninsulated lugs, telephone spade lugs, shoelace ferrules, RG58, RG59 RG62
and RG6 coax crimps D-Sub pins and 4,6 and 9 pole RJ
plugs. Check out the YouTube video online.
Q 1088
Must have
for electronic
servicing.
Q 2115
NEW!
245
$
NEW!
Top Value!
Peak USB Semiconductor Analyser
®
Bargain Compression Crimper
Price breakthrough! Professional compression
crimpers can sell for over $100, we’ve sourced
this great compact unit which can crimp all the
popular types of plugs in RG59, RG58 and RG6.
Much like our popular Q 2100 Peak analyser with added
features including PC/USB interface which allows detailed
curve tracing analysis of components, plus measure a
range of part values like gain and leakage. 2 year warranty.
Designed & manufactured in the UK.
27.50
15
$
SAVE 16%
T 2171
T 1522
Cable Stripping Made Easy
Strips wires in an instant! A real convenience
compared to using cutters or even teeth (ouch!).
22pc Palm Ratchet Driver Set
A ratchet wrench designed for working in tight spaces.
Fits in the palm of your hand, or use with the optional
wrench handle. Includes a variety of tips and sockets.
T 2169
15
$
T 2194
1000V Rated Insulated
Screwdrivers
Q 1026A
SAVE $20
15
$
SAVE 24%
With rubberised grips &
chrome vanadium tips. EN 60900 Approved.
Includes 3 blade, 2 phillips & 240V tester.
17pc Ratchet Driver Tool Kit
SAVE 16%
This ultra compact ratchet kit is ideal for working in tight
spaces inside equipment. Supplied with: •#1, #2 phillips
• #1, #2 pozidrive • T10, 15, 20 torx • 4, 5 & 6mm flat
blade • 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10mm 1/4” drive hex sockets.
SAVE 15%
Analogue Multimeter
Water & Dustproof (IP67)
True RMS Multimeter
Top of the range! Ideal for marine & mining
technicians. • True RMS measurement
• 40MHz freq. counter with bar graph
• Max/min recording • Capacitance to
40mF. • Temp measurement • 10A
current range • Auto power off
• Includes thermocouple • Data hold.
Ideal for observing constantly varying
quantities such as cycling voltages or
speaker resonance testing.
Features: • 10A DC current
• 20kΩ/Volt sensitivity • Transistor
tester • Mirrored scale • Includes
test leads.
Just like the
brand names
for less!
$
SAVE 22%
38
$
99
$
Super-Tough
Equipment Carry
Cases!
IP67 rated for the ultimate dust and
water protection for your precious
equipment. Ideal for storing test
equipment, cameras, computers and
sensors. Foam inner can be
customised to suit your equipment.
Foam lined lid for secure fit. Latches
can be padlocked. T 5052-65 include
shoulder strap.
Part
Normally
365x266x165mm
Size
T 5050
$98.50
Now...
$78
465x365x185mm
T 5052
$179
$140
515x435x199mm
T 5054
$269
$199
650x430x250mm
T 5065
$485
$379
20%
OFF
*Dimensions are external
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
72 Silicon Chip
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy siliconchip.com.au
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
Resellers
Build It Yourself Kit Sale
80
$
29.95
$
SAVE 15%
NEW KIT!
K 1128
K 9555
Colour MaxiMite Kit
(SC September ‘12) The new colour
maxi-mite is here! Upgraded with colour VGA
output, stereo audio synthesiser, real-time
clock, Arduino compatible connector and 20
more I/O lines. A powerful programmable
computer for innumerable logging, monitoring
and switching projects. Note: SD card not included.
Adjustable
from 5s to
1 hour.
Electronic Bellbird Kit
(SC Dec ‘13) A great starter project for kits to
learn about electronics. Mimics the musical
sounds of a real Bellbird with a decorative LED
chaser light. Includes button cell battery.
(SC August ‘12) This small module can
save power by switching off fans or lighting after a period between 5s and 1 hour.
It can also be hooked up to a mains rated
push button for a timed manual activation. 5A/1250VA max rating. Note: must be
installed by a licenced electrician in most states.
$69
$49.95
K 9552 Mini Maximite Module
150
$
129
$
60
$
SAVE 14%
K 1143
SAVE $20
SAVE $48
GPS Boat Computer Kit
K 6021
‘Classic-D’ Amplifier Module Kit
High Power Ultrasonic
Cleaner Kit
(SC November ‘12) A rugged and reliable
Class-D audio amplifier producing up to 250W
into 4Ω. This high efficiency, high power
design is ideal for building into any audio
amplifier design. Class-D amps are
commonplace amongst consumer equipment.
Low distortion <0.01%. Based on the IRS2092
audio amplifier chip.
(SC August ‘10) Build this large, heavy duty
ultrasonic cleaner and blast away grime from
virtually anything, using just water & a little
household detergent. Sensor can be dunked
into a bucket of water for cleaning large items.
Great for car parts, bric-a-brac and more!
Requires 12V DC 2.5A plugpack, M 8937
$29.95 (fitted with 2.5mm tip).
K 5182 Optional speaker protector
K 6047
Mains Timer Kit For
Fans & Lights.
Original MaxiMites Still Available
K 9550 Maximite BASIC SD Computer
K 5181
22
$
SAVE 25%
(SC Oct ‘10) Tells you exactly where you
are - never get lost at sea again. Also
shows speed and heading - plus it will
navigate you back home - or to that secret
fishing spot! It even displays fuel
consumption, along with a host of other
vital information.
39
$
SAVE 20%
$19.95
K 5136
55
$
SAVE 19%
60
$
K 6009
Take amazing stop motion photos
with your camera!
(SC Jan ‘09) Flash Camera Trigger Kit.
Take pictures at precise moments from 1ms to
9.99s after a trigger. Triggering can be from the
included electret mic or other sensors like a
PIR detector, light-beam interrupter, or sensor
switches (not included). Requires 9V battery.
K 2920
SAVE 29%
Cut Office Power Consumption
USB Mains Sensing Switch Kit.
(SC January ‘09) Monitors your PC’s USB
port and automatically turns all your gear on
and off as required. No need to crawl under the
desk to disconnect devices!
K 6140
25
20
$
$
SAVE 33%
SAVE 15%
K 6011
Beam Trigger Kit For K 6009
(SC July ‘09) Connects to the contact input of
the K 6009 to provide a trigger when the beam
of IR light is broken. 9V or 6xAA battery
powered.
Special Function 12V Timer Kit
(SC October ‘08) A handy timer module
designed to accept a trigger input from a rising
or falling voltage. When triggered the timer can
switch devices on for any period between 0.1s
and 16.5 minutes.
2x20W 12V Amplifier Kit
(SC May ‘10) This compact stereo amp
module puts out 2x20W RMS into 4Ω and
is 12V powered (SLA battery or plugpack).
Distortion typically <0.03%. Bass & treble
controls. Great for mobile use in a caravan.
K 6340
12.95
$
BARGAIN!
Mini Switching Regulator
(SC Feb ‘12) This tiny regulator board
outputs 1.2-20V from a higher voltage DC
supply at currents up to 1.5A. It’s small,
efficient and cheap to build, Features low
drop-out voltage, low heat generation and
electronic shut-down.
B 0092
Sale Ends February 28th 2013
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
siliconchip.com.au
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2013. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Esperance
Esperance Comms.
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ML Communications
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Bairnsdale Electrics
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Music Workshop
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Preston Electronics
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AV2PC
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AV2PC
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Protronics
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Penrith Light and Sound
Port Macquarie
Fettel Comms.
Smithfield
Chantronics
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Noeledge Systems Pty Ltd
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SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Aztronics
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Home of 12 Volt
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin Combined Comm. Solutions
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch - Riccarton Global PC
Christchurch - Shirley
Global PC
(08) 9071 3344
(08) 9965 7555
(03) 5152 3201
(03) 9768 9420
(03) 5472 1700
(03) 9562 8559
(03) 5996 2755
(03) 9723 3860
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1300 716 840
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(08) 8942 0644
+64 3 3434475
+64 3 3543333
Please Note:
have to 2014 73
pay the cost of freight and
FResellers
ebruary
insurance and therefore the range of stocked products & prices
charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
by Stan Swan
Cartoon by
Barney Walker
Thinking inside the box!
Many modern electronic components sell very cheaply and some circuits – even
using microcontrollers – need just a single supply around 3.3V. However, cases,
switches, mounting hardware and battery holders can be disproportionately costly
– often more than the high-tech electronics within! Here’s a neat, low-cost solution.
G
iven the cost of project cases,
if you’re on any form of budget
it’s often tempting to leave
the project “air insulated”, ie, with
no case. But damage to exposed connections and flying wires may be a
risk. And it certainly doesn’t look too
professional, either.
Because many projects have only a
74 Silicon Chip
few components – a microcontroller
and little else in some cases, quite
small cases can be used. So here’s a
different approach: use a switched battery box to not only hold the battery...
but hold the project as well!
It’s a cheap solution, with battery
boxes selling for just a couple of dollars
or so. It’s educationally beneficial too,
as it will prompt builders to the sort of
compact layouts and neat wiring that
are required of today’s designs.
Switched battery boxes come in a
variety of sizes, most often to suit AA
and AAA cells. Two, three and four
cell sizes are relatively common but
others are available. The common ones
can be obtained from most electronics
siliconchip.com.au
However, this Paxolin-based board is
prone to cracking unless guillotined
or first deeply scored on both sides. A
box-cutter knife carefully guided along
a ruler is satisfactory for this.
The boards offer convenient supply/
ground rails under the DIP position,
which can be broken or bridged as
required. Coarse sandpaper can be
used to smooth board edges.
Jaycar’s spray-on circuit board
lacquer (NA1002) protects, makes
soldering easier and enhances board
appearance.
Protoboards
By removing the inter-cell ribs a circuit
board or even a small protoboard can be
fitted in the space made available. Run a
3.7V lithium or (better still) a 3.2V LiFePO4 battery and
you have a self-contained project, with battery and on//off switch. The
PCB here is cut from a Jaycar HP9558 experimenter’s board.
retailers and also on-line.
They’ve traditionally been black,
but transparent and coloured ones are
also available. A summary is shown
below.
Circuit board
The idea is to replace one or more
cells in the battery box with a small
PCB or other board containing the
circuitry. This may or may not require
the removal of inter-cell ribs to fit
larger boards.
Obviously, you need to determine
the size of circuit that can fit into the
switched battery box. This also depends on the size and number of cells
it was originally intended for.
Rechargeable batteries are more often than not sold by size, not by letters.
Battery
box
2 x AAA
2 x AA
2 x AA
3 x AA
3 x AA
3 x AA
4 x AA
4 x AA
4 x AA
4 x AA
You need to know that the battery referred to as an “AA” type is also known
as a 14500 (being 14mm diameter by
50mm long – the extra “0” on it tells
you which is the longer length) and a
“AAA” cell is 10mm diameter x 45mm
long, or 10450.
The table shows the various sizes of
boards which can be accommodated
in the various switched battery boxes.
If you have the knowledge and facilities, a small PCB could be designed
and etched to suit the project. Such is
the ideal solution but many constructors may not be able to do this.
An alternative is to cut a generalpurpose experimenter’s PCB to
size – such as Jaycar’s “Ultra Mini
Experimenter’s Board” (HP9556) and
“IC Experimenters Board” (HP9558)
Jaycar Altronics Number
Circuitry
Comment
code
code
of cells
size (mm)
PH-9288
S5055 1 x LFP (3.2V) 10 x 45 Suits very small layouts
PH-9280
S5042 1 x LFP (3.2V) 14 x 50 Suits centre rail “fingers”
PH-9280
S5042 1 x ALK (1.5V) 14 x 50 Niche use voltage boosting
n/a
S5041 1 x LFP (3.2V) 30 x 50 Remove 1 box cell rib.
n/a
S5041 2 x LFP (6.4V) 14 x 50 Suits 5V/USB circuits
n/a
S5041 2 x ALK (~3V) 14 x 50 Suits centre rail “fingers”
PH-9282
S5043 1 x LFP (3.2V) 45 x 50 Remove 2 box cell ribs
PH-9282
S5043 2 x LFP (6.4V) 30 x 50 Remove box cell rib
PH-9282
S5043 2 x ALK (~3V) 30 x 50 Matches 3xAA LFP
PH-9282
S5043 3 x LFP (9.6V) 15 x 50 Suits even 9V circuits
These are the most common switched battery boxes – the most expensive sells
for less than $3.00. LFP means lithium ion phosphate (LiFePO4) while ALK are
your common “primary” (ie, non-rechargeable) alkaline cells.
siliconchip.com.au
As an alternative, some of the larger
battery boxes may even fit a portion of
a solderless prototyping board.
The technique used to trim a
breadboard to 46mm x 30mm can be
followed from the pictures. This essentially uses side cutters and a box
knife to initially remove the unwanted
mount wings, followed by a thin
backing slice made to reveal a line of
spring contacts. Once these contacts
are removed a fine hack saw cut can
be made through the empty plastic
channel. With care two such trimmed
boards can be made from a single 23
x 12 hole mini breadboard. Sand the
rough breadboard edges to finish.
The battery
Already, we can hear the question:
how is the project going to fit in the
box if the space is being taken up by
batteries? The answer is simple: use
higher voltage lithium secondary cells!
These deliver significantly higher
voltages than traditional NiCd, NiMH
or alkalines, at currents as good or
better – in some cases, much better.
Where three AA or AAA NiCd or
NiMH batteries will give you about
3.6V and a pair of alkalines about 3V,
a single lithium-ion cell of the same
size will give you about 3.7V. There is
no “memory effect” that you get with
some rechargeable cells.
The higher single Li voltages allow
fewer cells for the same supply so
you can use the liberated space, (as
we mentioned earlier, a “footprint” of
14mm x 50mm per AA cell) to house
all manner of simple circuitry on a
small PCB or strip board.
However, lithium-ion cells are not
perfect: they have a falling supply
voltage with use and are very picky
about being run too low.
In SILICON CHIP June 2013, we looked
February 2014 75
The 2 AA cell (left) and
4 AA cell (right) from Jaycar
are typical of the switched battery boxes
available. The four-cell unit can have a PCB or
protoboard occupying the space of three cells (45 x
50mm) to give quite a reasonable project space.
at the merits of safer, longer life and
abuse-tolerant lithium ion phosphate
(abbreviated LiFePO4 or LFP) types.
These are more tolerant than lithiumion and deliver a very steady 3.2V
per cell, almost until their charge is
exhausted. This means a single LFP
can do the work of two 1.5V alkalines.
And it will probably last longer into
the bargain.
Naturally, rechargeable cells will
eventually need recharging. It’s recommended that this be done externally
with a dedicated smart charger.
These are available now and they’re
very well priced – and user friendly.
We built one of these into the PortaPAL-D featured over the last couple of
months (it sells for <$15.00).
The one pictured ($AU6.00 from
Hong Kong!) charges a “AA” LFP cell
in around 90 minutes and can be used
from a computer USB port or a dedicated 5V USB supply. Sure, it’s a minor
inconvenience having to remove the
battery and place it in the charger but
we think it’s a very small price to pay.
Just one word of warning: the re-
This single AA
or AAA charger
can handle
LiFePO4 or NiMH
cells and plugs
into a computer
USB port or a
dedicated 5V
supply (either
mains or car
cigarette lighter).
It cost just $6.00
from Hong Kong
via ebay.
76 Silicon Chip
chargeable batteries found online are
often (usually?) significantly overrated. In fact, we saw some on ebay
recently from a Chinese supplier who
actually said in their description “you
may not get 2800mAh from 2800mAh
batteries. It is industry thing”! At least
he is honest, sort of!
Some posters in local forums who
have done accurate measurements
report that many of the cheaper rechargeables online are actually half,
or even less, of their stated capacity.
Even some “brand name” cells are not
immune from this as many are in fact
counterfeits.
couple of dollars. An initial decision
has to be made on the circuitry size,
supply voltage and case ergonomics.
Most switched battery boxes have a
lid which closes over the batteries. This
may or may not be a problem depending on the height of the circuit board/
components but if it is a problem,
simply remove the lid.
For basic circuitry a 2 x AA “14500”
(or even a 2 x AAA “10450”) box may
suffice – remember that the circuit
board cannot be larger than the battery
it replaces. Larger boxes could house
even trimmed protoboards.
LED monitoring
Once the box type is selected it
can be internally altered to suit,
if needed. However boxes tend to
differ in their switch positions, so a
careful examination of the cell tabs
and switch contacts should first be
made. Cell tabs are easily removed
with pliers and unwanted ribs snip
out with side cutters. Excess cell rib
plastic may have to be removed with
a “Dremel” or similar, a nibbler or
even a file. Fit/refit cell contacts/
springs and run the positive supply
wire from the switch and the
negative from the contact/spring.
Many “5V” circuits will run on 6V or
so but there are some which will get upset. Sometimes the specifications say
something like “absolute maximum
5.0V +/- 10%”, so anything over 5.5V
is certainly not recommended.
If you use two 3.2V LFP batteries
in series you’re obviously going to get
around 6.4V.
The easiest way to get around this
is to simply connect a pair of suitably
rated silicon power diodes (eg, 1N4004
for typical low-power circuits) in series between the battery positive and
circuit positive. With around 0.6-0.7V
voltage drop across each diode, you’ll
While the LFP cells are not as demanding when it comes to low voltage,
it’s best to avoid running any lithium
cell too low.
Just as importantly, when charging
multiple-cell batteries you need to use
a “balance charger” which individually balances each cell voltage. This
will give maximum life/number of
charges.
To avoid over-discharging individual cells, we’ve found using a white,
blue or pink LED acts as a useful battery
status gauge. Usually, these LEDs are
bright at 3.2V but begin to dim below
3V and go out at 2.5V – the recommended level to recharge LFP cells.
Remember: “if it’s dim then recharge!”
While the LED could be left permanently across the battery, this would
obviously act as a continual drain and
you’d find the LED goes out far too early
and far too often!
Simply use a small tactile switch in
series with the LED to act as a supply
tester when pushed.
Battery boxes
Switched battery boxes come in 2,
3 or 4 cell versions and sell for only a
Box alteration
siliconchip.com.au
ANTRIM
TRANSFORMERS
manufactured in Australia by
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
harbuch<at>optusnet.com.au
Toroidal – Conventional Transformers
Power – Audio – Valve – ‘Specials’
Medical – Isolated – Stepup/down
Encased Power Supplies
ANTRIM
TRANSFORMERS
manufactured in
Australia by
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
harbuch<at>optusnet.com.au
Toroidal – Conventional Transformers
Power – Audio – Valve – ‘Specials’
Medical – Isolated – Stepup/down
Encased Power Supplies
Toroidal General
Construction
OUTER
INSULATION
OUTER
WINDING
WINDING
INSULATION
You can even (very carefully!) cut down a proto-board for a solder-less project,
as long as you don’t use any high-profile components. This is a three-way AA
battery box but could equally be a two-way
or four-way.
Encased
Power Supply
easy to lay out circuits that were first
end up with very close to 5V without
www.harbuch.com.au
the losses and unpredictability of a developed on a normal protoboard.
resistor.
Pty Ltd
Harbuch
Electronics
3 x AA box:
9/40 Leighton Pl, HORNSBY 2077
2 x AA/AAA box:
This may be configured for 2 x
Ph
5854 cells
Fax (02)
9476
3231
alkaline
(3V)
or 1
x LFP (3.2V).
A single 3.2V LFP cell (available (02)
in 9476
both AA & AAA form) will directly
run all manner of devices, including
a PICAXE micro.
LEDs could be mounted in the
(enlarged) hole previously used by
the flying leads of the battery box.
Jaycar’s 3.5mm chassis stereo socket
(PS-0132) is around 10mm deep and
also neatly fits – it could be used for
PICAXE programming or even in-situ
LFP cell charging.
Jaycar’s HP9556 experimenter’s
board readily makes four AA sized
“fingers”. The resulting 50mm x 14mm
boards offer 20 x 6 solder pads but care
will be needed in cutting & trimming
to avoid undue weakening of the outer
solder pads.
Very tight designs may gain a few
millimetres by removing the box mid
wall and securing the cell instead with
Velcro tape. Although of only modest
capacity, a narrower 10mm x 45mm
AAA cell could even be used on lowdrain circuits.
Jaycar’s HP9558 experimenter’s
board offers more layout flexibility.
It features both normal side supply
and spare centre rails, along with “3
a side” contacts.
A 20 hole x 10 hole HP9558 “finger”
board showed itself as versatile and
siliconchip.com.au
Although versatile, the alkaline approach is hindered again by the small
board housed in the single cell space.
A single LFP cell however alllows a
trimmed breadboard (11 x 12 holes).
4 x AA box:
This largest switched battery box
offers very useful versatility and may
even suit as a mini test bench when
used with jumper leads.
A two-alkaline supply will allow
the same internal rail circuit board
approach as used on the single LFP
powered 3 x AA box. LFP cells are more
expensive than AA so their use may be
unjustified for some simple projects.
However, when gutted to just a single LFP, it’ll even house a trimmed (20
x 12 holes) breadboard, complete with
full supply rails and even top and side
hole ID lettering.
Head room on a breadboard is a
rather tight 5mm, but this doubles
to a tolerable 10mm when housing a
soldered board.
Enhanced board real estate now
allows all manner of circuits to be
designed and built and finally neatly
housed in a battery box. Sufficient internal cavities remain to allow diverse
indicator LEDs, I/O connections and
INNER
WINDING
CORE
CORE
INSULATION
Comprehensive data available:
www.harbuch.com.au
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl, HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476 5854 Fax (02) 9476 3231
sensors to be mounted as well.
Finish:
Neat external labels can affixed and
covered with clear tape for protection.
It’s particularly important to also indicate the cell type the circuit is intended
for, else sub-standard performance or
over driving may result. Dummy cells
can of course be used – a single LFP in
series with a dummy cell gives 3.2V,
which almost matches the voltage of
two alkaline cells.
The prospect of connecting several
LFPs in series may tempt, but cell
matching (relating to differing cell
charge, discharge and aging characteristics) may become an issue for long
term projects.
Simple setups can readily however
be organized, and a couple in series
(2 x 3.2V = 6.4V) will be good for 5V
USB style delivery (after regulation),
three for 9V (3x 3.2V = 9.6V) with
four in series (4 x 3.2V = 12.8V) even
capable of a healthy and lightweight
12V supply.
Just don’t try and jump start your
SC
car with them!
Resources: Conveniently located at
www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/bbox.htm
February 2014 77
Yet another dongle
– this time it’s a
spectrum analyser!
By JIM ROWE
L
IKE MOST TEST instruments,
spectrum analysers have shrunk
in cost and size in the last few years,
thanks to accelerating solid-state technology. But when someone talks about
a portable spectrum analyser, most of
us think of an instrument maybe just a
little larger than a portable DSO.
A recent example of these advancements is the Gratten GA4063 analyser
I reviewed in the November 2013 issue
of SILICON CHIP (page 84), which measures 400 x 210 x 136mm and weighs a
modest 7kg. That’s much smaller and
lighter than the spectrum analysers
of only 15 years ago and its price tag
of below $8000 is also considerably
lower.
There’s also the RF Explorer reviewd
by stan Swan in the May 2013 issue of
SILICON CHIP. It covered the range from
240-960MHz.
But the technology is still galloping
on, at an ever increasing rate. Early
in 2013, a small Canadian firm called
Triarchy Technologies Corp released
the first of a series of Mini Spectrum
Analysers housed in a USB dongle
measuring a mere 87 x 23 x 15mm –
including a USB type-A plug at the
78 Silicon Chip
Jim Rowe spotted this USB Mini
Spectrum Analyser dongle on eBay and
was so intrigued he purchased one.
Despite its tiny size and low cost, it
offers impressive performance over the
frequency range from 1MHz right up to
5.35GHz – with a few limitations but not
enough to stop it being very handy for
many portable applications.
output end and an SMA female connector at the input end. It weighs less
than 20 grams.
Despite this tiny size, the TSA5G35
analyser covers the frequency range
from 1MHz right up to 5.35GHz and
offers some impressive features, including sourcing all of its power from
the PC, via the USB cable; no separate
power supply or battery pack is required. That’s what we call portable!
And buying it via eBay, the cost of
the TSA5G35 is much lower than you’d
expect: US$599.00 plus US$30.00 for
handling and international shipping,
which equates to about A$750.00 at
the current exchange rate. That’s about
1/10th the cost of the next-cheapest
fully self-contained spectrum analyser
covering the same frequency range.
By the way, the TSA5G35 comes
in a small black cardboard case, with
protective foam around it. There’s a
matching 30dB fixed RF attenuator
alongside it, with SMA connectors at
both ends so it can be easily screwed
onto the input of the TSA5G35 to extend its signal level range. There’s also
a 1m long USB extension cable (type-A
plug to type-A socket) so you don’t
need to have the TSA5G35 plugged
directly into the PC’s USB port.
Main features
Here’s a listing of the main technical
features that the unit offers:
(1) Input levels up to +20dBm (100mW)
with the basic TSA5G35, rising to
+30dBm (1W) with the add-on fixed
RF attenuator.
(2) Built-in digitally-controlled input
attenuator with seven ranges, covering from 0dB to -60dB in 10dB steps.
This attenuator is also used to set the
analyser’s reference level.
(3) A noise floor which hovers around
-110dBm (710nV at 50Ω) for most of
the frequency range, creeping up to
-105dBm at around 1.6GHz and then to
-100dBm (2.2µV) at 4.5GHz and above.
The rated noise floor figure is -115dBm,
measured at 1.0GHz with 5MHz span
and the reference level set to -60dBm (I
checked this with the unit I purchased
and obtained an average reading of very
close to -119dBm).
(4) A choice of eight software selectable ranges when it comes to frequency
span: 1-2-5-10-20-50-100-500MHz
and 1000MHz, although there is a
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the software control panel
has a wide range of settings and
allows you to set markers to read the
frequency and level at various points
in the spectrum. The four coloured
tabs at top let you choose the Current,
Average, Maximum & Density plot
modes, or combinations of these.
proviso in that the two widest spans
can’t be used where they extend over
the 850MHz point in either direction.
That’s because the TSG5G35 actually
covers its overall frequency span in two
ranges: 1MHz - 850MHz and 850MHz
- 5.35GHz.
(5) Four different resolution bandwidths (RBW): 50kHz, 100kHz, 200kHz
and 500kHz. These are automatically
selected by the Triarchy software to
give the clearest display for each span
range.
(6) Minimum sweep time of two seconds (‘1x’), which can be extended by
factors of 1.5x, 2x, 4x, 8x, 16x or 32x.
(7) Here’s a few more hardware-related specs: minimum frequency step for
1MHz span is 2kHz; frequency stability better than ±5ppm with software
calibration (not explained as yet);
reference level accuracy quoted as
<3dB between 100MHz and 5.35GHz
at the ‘top level’ of the internal step
attenuator; reference level flatness is
quoted as <2dB within 100MHz span,
also at the ‘top level’, and display range
linearity is quoted as <4dB at 1GHz.
(8) The Triarchy software has the capability of calculating and displaying
siliconchip.com.au
not just the ‘current’ scanning plot,
but also the ‘average’, ‘maximum’ and
‘density’ plots as well if you wish. Any
of these four plots can be enabled or
disabled simply by clicking on their
respective ‘tabs’ at the upper right of
the display. The different plots are
colour coded to allow them to be distinguished from each other.
(9) Other features of the software
include the ability to set a number of
measurement markers on the plots/
waveforms; to set the software to make
allowance for the external 30dB attenuator, any input cable loss or antenna
gain; to allow the user to select any of
five different options for displaying
the reference level and amplitude plot
ordinates – dBm (the default), dBµV,
dBmV, dBµV/m or dBmV/m2; to allow
the user to save not only ‘snapshots’ of
the current plots for printing out, but
also to ‘record’ the scan data to disc,
for processing by other software.
A User Manual for the TSA5G35
and its software can be downloaded
as a PDF file from www.triarchytech.
com. However, note that the manual is
currently still in draft form and as yet
a bit sketchy in places. On the other
hand, Triarchy already has a series of
Application Notes available, all PDF
files which can be downloaded from
their website. These cover the testing of signals from Bluetooth, DECT,
mobile phones, SRD and RFIDs, WiFi
routers and Zigbee.
Trying it out
So far, I’ve tried out the TSA5G35
on a desktop PC running Windows
XP/SP3 and a laptop running the
64-bit version of Windows 7. In both
cases, the TSA5G35 and its software
worked fine, the only difference being
that things do slow down a bit on the
Windows XP machine when you select
the ‘density’ plot. However, Triarchy
The Triarchy USB
Mini Spectrum
Analyser fits easily in
the palm of the hand.
Despite it’s tiny size, it
covers the frequency
range from 1MHz to
5.35GHz.
February 2014 79
Fig.2: this spectrum plot shows the WiFi signals coming from the author’s
network router. The yellow trace shows the most recent ‘current’ plot, while
the magenta trace shows the maxima and the somewhat splodgy blue and cyan
trace shows the density plot.
Fig.3: the ‘current’ plot of a 1GHz signal from a Gratten GA1484B generator,
with an output level of -90dBm (7.1μV) and using a direct connection. The signal
peak is very close to -91dBm (possibly due to small losses in the connectors).
warns that this option does involve a
lot of processor ‘crunch power’ and
so really needs a fast and powerful
machine running 64-bit Windows 7.
80 Silicon Chip
Overall, the device and its software
are quite easy to drive in terms of making the majority of common spectrum
analyser measurements. I also found
that it met or exceeded its main performance specifications, although
the user manual doesn’t explain (as
yet) how to calibrate it in terms of
frequency or amplitude level.
While checking the TSA5G35’s
noise floor over the full frequency
range, I did find small spurious signal
peaks at 48MHz and 96MHz. These
seem likely to be from an oscillator
inside the dongle but as they were both
quite small (-99dBm and -101dBm),
they don’t seem likely to cause any
real problems in most applications.
I also tried using the TSA5G35 to
look at the WiFi signals coming from
my network router, using a small
‘whip’ antenna from an old router
connected to the input of the TSA5G35
as a near-field ‘sniffer’. The plots I
obtained with this antenna (and the
TSA5G35) spaced about 1.5m from the
two antennas of the router are shown
in Fig.2.
To make things clearer, the yellow
trace shows the most recent ‘current’
plot, while the magenta trace shows
the maxima and the somewhat splodgy
blue and cyan trace shows the density
plot.
As you can see, they show that most
of the signals are centred on 2437MHz,
which seems to be ‘channel 6’ in the
WiFi band, with a smaller group of
signals centred on 2457MHz (channel
10) and even fewer signals outside
these two main groupings.
Other tests I tried involved using the
TSA5G35 to check the output of the
Gratten GA1484B signal generator I
reviewed in the November 2013 issue,
with the generator set for different frequencies and output levels, and with
either a direct connection between the
two or via a 1m long RG-213 cable. In
each case, I also had to use an N-type
to SMA adaptor and, in some cases, an
SMA gender changer as well.
You can see the results of a couple
of these tests in Fig.3 and Fig.4. Fig.3
shows the ‘current’ plot of the generator signal at 1GHz, with an output level
of -90dBm (7.1µV) and with a ‘direct’
connection. Although I didn’t set a
marker for the signal peak, it clearly
shows a level of very close to -91dBm.
I presume the 1dB difference is due
mainly to losses in the two connector
series adaptors but there may also be a
small error in terms of the TSA5G35’s
level calibration.
Fig.4 shows the result of the same
kind of test with the generator output
siliconchip.com.au
set to 3.9950GHz and an output level of
-50dBm. As you can see, the peak level
in this case is shown as -50.55dBm,
suggesting a smaller loss in the series
adaptors. On the other hand, the peak
frequency is shown as 3995.04MHz,
which suggests a small error in TSA
5G35’s frequency calibration. While
not all that great, hopefully this can
be reduced when I find out how to
perform the ‘software calibration’ . . .
Any complaints?
Not really – just a few minor niggles,
which can hopefully be sorted out by
Triarchy Technology when they produce the final version of the TSA5G35
User Manual and also gradually improve the control software.
For example, you can’t at present
program a scan by specifying the start
and stop frequencies; you can only do
it by setting the centre frequency and
the span. This can often require either
a little mental arithmetic or a pocket
calculator. It would be nice to be able
to set a scan by specifying the start
and stop frequencies, as an alternative.
It also be good to have the ability
to change the resolution bandwidth
(RBW) manually and perhaps be able
to achieve spans of less than 1MHz,
eg, 100kHz.
To summarise, the TSA5G35 USB
Mini Spectrum Analyser seems to
be a very capable little performer,
particularly when you consider its
remarkably attractive price. While its
performance is clearly not up to the
level provided by much more expensive self-contained analysers, my impression is that it provides most of the
Fig.4: the result with the signal generator output set to 3.9950GHz and an output
level of -50dBm. The peak level is now -50.55dBm, indicating a much smaller
loss in the series connectors. The peak frequency indicated is 3995.04MHz, due
probably to a small error in TSA5G35’s frequency calibration.
capabilities needed for general purpose
spectrum analysis. This would include
checking cordless phones and wireless
video links, mobile phones and 2-way
radio gear, Bluetooth and WiFi gear,
and so on.
It should also be suitable for nearfield EMC testing out in the field.
By the way, you don’t have to search
around on eBay to find the Triarchy
TSA5G35. All you need do is go to
their own website at www.triarchytech.com, click on the [Products]
button, select the TSA5G35 from the
list of products and then click on the
‘To order from eBay click here’ link.
If you do go to their website, you’ll
find that they are now manufacturing three other USB dongle-based
spectrum analysers as well. One,
designated the TSA4G1, covers up to
just 4.1GHz and is a little cheaper than
the TSA5G35. Another, designated
the TSA12G5, covers the frequency
range from 4.9-13.5GHz and is more
SC
expensive.
Full range of PICAXE products in stock now!
PICAXE Chips, Starter Packs, Project Boards, Experimenter Kits,
Books, Software and Accessories.
PICAXE 2x16 and 4x20 OLED Displays
OLED displays provide much brighter
displays, better viewing angles and lower
current consumption making them a
great alternative to LCD’s.
PICAXE Starter Packs available for
08M2, 14M2, 18M2, 20M2, 28X2 and
40X2 Microprocessors.
This module allows PICAXE projects to
display (yellow on black) text interfacing
via one single serial line or I²C bus.
PICAXE-18M2 chip is provided
pre-programmed with the
open-source AXE133 firmware.
For pricing and to shop online, visit www.wiltronics.com.au
Ph: (03) 5334 2513 | Email: sales<at>wiltronics.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 81
Salvage It!
By BRUCE PIERSON
Harvesting
a Dead PC
Motherboard
for Parts
Last month we looked at the goodies we could salvage from a dead PC
supply. But what about the motherboard? There’s a lot of useful parts on there,
too . . . but getting them off sometimes proves difficult!
I
t’s estimated that the average life of a desktop computer
these days is little more than two years. After this time,
its performance can be agonisingly slow compared to
“the latest and greatest” to the point where, if it is being
used in a business environment, it is likely to be actually
costing money – merely in “wait” time. Even worse, it is
probably not able to keep up with the latest software.
Or consider the other scenario: your computer has “died”
– the power supply still works but there is an obvious
motherboard failure.
In either case, your choice is to either replace the motherboard (along with memory, probably a new hard drive,
etc) or simply replace the whole thing.
Financially, replacing the motherboard is often the best
solution (though not always!), so let’s assume you’ve gone
that route and in the process, ended up with an old one.
You could just discard it, or you could wreck it for parts
and get a bunch of useful components from it for the junk
box before tossing the skeleton.
What parts can you salvage from a dead motherboard?
Well, it depends on the type of motherboard you have to
start with. We can categorise motherboards into four broad
categories. (We’ll forget about really old types!)
(1) Older motherboards that use SD RAM. These boards
tend to have more, smaller sized and smaller value electrolytic capacitors of a higher voltage, typically 330F 25V, no
USB headers and not much in the way of heatsinks (if any).
(2) Not-quite-as-old motherboards that use DDR RAM.
These boards usually have several physically larger electrolytic capacitors of higher capacity and lower voltage,
82 Silicon Chip
typically 2200μF 6.3V and a number of smaller capacitors,
USB headers and inductors.
3) Newer boards that use DDR-2 RAM. These are similar
to the DDR boards.
4) Newest boards using DDR-3 RAM. These usually have
solid capacitors of smaller physical size and sometimes a
few of the older electrolytic capacitors, more heatsinks,
more choks and more headers for USB, fans and other
connectors.
The photo above shows a typical older motherboard
that takes SD RAM. This was the only dead motherboard
available for “harvesting” at the time of writing, so it has
been sacrificed for this article.
Motherboards are multi-layer fibreglass in construction,
with layers of track-work buried inside. With platedthrough holes, de-soldering components can be quite difficult, due to the heat transfer through the multiple layers
of track-work throughout the board.
So, how do we remove the components? Well, components with only two leads, such as capacitors, can generally
be removed with a 40W soldering iron, by heating each lead
in turn and bending the component gently to the side after
the solder has melted.
This procedure is repeated several times, until the
component is free. However, this method won’t work for
multi-lead components, such as ICs or header pins, etc.
A blowtorch to the belly motherboard
The best method I have found for releasing such components is to use a small gas blowtorch set on the lowest
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level possible, with the flame angled across the board, in
order to melt the solder and minimise heat transfer to the
components.
If you are using this method to salvage parts, you need
to take a lot of care and proceed in a manner so as not to
endanger life or property. Firstly, it should be noted that
using this method produces a lot of smoke and the board
will often catch fire during the procedure. However, this
presents minimal risk to the salvager, if the proper precautions are taken.
It goes without saying that this procedure must be carried out outdoors in a well-ventilated area, away from
flammable material. Make sure you have a bucket of cold
water on hand in case of burns (or fire!) and wear safety
equipment: insulating gloves, protective glasses and so on.
Quite often, small SMD components may “explode” off
the board and be projected in any direction and the last thing
you need is an extremely hot component landing in your
eye. Overheated “normal” components can also explode.
It sometimes happens that a ball of solder will drop from
the board, so make sure you don’t get in the way, nor have
any skin exposed. Remember, this solder will be very hot
– hotter than you are used to with an iron – and can make
quite a decent burn hole in your skin (and/or clothes).
Hot air gun alternative
An alternative to the blow torch (and an arguably safer)
method) is to use a hot air gun, (a real one, not a hair drier!)
set on high heat.
It is a slower process and can actually heat the components
even more than a flame (due to the fact that the heat must
be applied for longer). Hot air guns are still quite capable
of heating a PCB to the point where they catch fire and can,
of course, also cause you damage if you get in the blast!
Another possibility is an SMD re-work hot air station but
not many readers are likely to have one of these!
Removing connectors
When removing items such as USB headers and IDE connectors, it’s a good idea to plug an old cable into the header.
This helps to minimise the heat transfer to the plastic base
and keeps the pins straight and aligned, as well as providing
a convenient “handle” to remove the header with.
After the header has cooled, it can be removed from the
cable and stored for future use. USB headers are handy
when making a power supply and fan connectors can be
added to a project to enable the use of a computer fan in
the project.
Depending on what motherboard you start with, you
will most likely end up with a different assortment of
components to those shown above. The above selection is
somewhat minimalistic, due to the age of the board that
was wrecked. A better selection of components will be
obtained from newer motherboards.
However, we salvaged the following components from
this exercise, so it was still worthwhile. The alternative
would have been to bin the dead motherboard and all those
components would have gone to waste:
1 ceramic capacitor
2 large inductors
1 small inductor
1 header strip
1 battery holder
1 battery (probably dead if it’s an old motherboard)
5 3-pin headers and 5 jumpers to suit
1 20-pin power connector (not overly useful!)
3 transistors of unknown type
1 32-pin IC socket (great if you have any 32-pin ICs!)
1 PROM (useless unless you have an identical motherboard)
1 floppy header (what is a floppy?)
2 IDE headers – these can be used with cables to connect PCBs
1 8-way DIP switch (not usually found on newer boards)
1 dual USB port
1 crystal (unlabelled but probably around 8MHz)
2 serial ports and 1 parallel port – probably not much use for anything?
1 fan connector which can be used in a project to plug in a fan
Various screws and nuts
A bunch of SMD components which fell off by themselves in the
process of heating the board. (They could still be useful later if
you can identify them and test them).
As with all salvaged parts, be sure to test anything before you use it for a project or a repair. If you don’t know a
component is good, don’t use it, because it could be faulty
and you don’t want to be introducing faults into a repair or
a project and causing unnecessary problems.
After the one we stripped for this article we also acquired
a newer motherboard (shown below), using DDR-2 RAM. It
has a much better selection of parts than the old one. The
number of electrolytic capacitors is much greater and there
are USB headers and more fan connectors.
As yet it’s still intact, as this board is still in working order
– even though it is an older board, it could still prove useful
SC
for a repair or an upgrade of something even older.
25 Electrolytic capacitors, mostly 330F 25V (a better selection is
on newer boards),
1 3A diode
2 1A diodes (which fell out by themselves)
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 83
100W Digital Amplifier, Li-Po Battery . . .
. . . enough
power to
blow your
soCKS off . . .
PortaPAL-D
by
John Clarke
Part III – Building the Box
We’ve finished the electronics module – now it’s time to put together
the cabinet which houses that module along with the two speakers
to make LOTS of beautiful music.
T
he PortaPAL-D box is made
from 16mm MDF (medium
density fibreboard) and rectangular DAR (dressed all round) pine. Its
overall dimensions are 332W x 600H x
318D mm, chosen to suit the standard
MDF sheet sizes that are available.
The box is covered in speaker carpet
with corner protectors, a handle and a
top hat for use with a speaker stand.
The two speakers are each protected
with a metal grille. Fig.15 show the
speaker box construction.
The speakers are within their own
sealed box, while an “alcove” is made
in the top rear of the box to house the
PortaPAL-D chassis.
The inside volume for the speakers
is around 33 litres, however, by packing the space with fibreglass insulation or fibrous wadding, the effective
84 Silicon Chip
volume can be increased by as much
as 40%. This apparent increase is due
to a reduction in the speed of sound
in the box due to the packing.
Fig.16 shows the typical bass end
response with an unfilled box. This
shows a 2.7dB peak at about 120Hz.
With filling, this peak can be reduced
to below 2dB so that the bass response
becomes more damped. A further benefit of the wadding is in the reduction
of internal reflections from the cabinet
walls.
Incidentally, we used WinISD 0.44
box modelling software by Juha Hartikainen (www.linearteam.dk). Thiele/
Small parameters for the specified
Altronics C2005 speakers are: VAS= 27
litres, QES= 0.962, QMS= 4.172, QTS=
0.782 and Fo= 58.428Hz.
The basic box shell comprising the
top, bottom and two sides is made
using two 600 x 300mm and two 300
x 300mm sheets of MDF. The front
speaker baffle is 300 x 568mm and fits
into these surrounds, as does the 300
x 365mm lower rear piece.
Two more pieces form the “alcove”,
one 300 x 157mm and one 300 x
201mm.
These can be cut to size with a machine or hand saw and are assembled
using PVA glue and nails or screws.
If they offer a cutting service, you
might find it better to have the store
where you purchase the MDF to cut the
pieces for you, as this will inevitably
result in a squarer, more even finish.
Internal cleats using 12 x 12mm
DAR pine can be placed inside the
edges of the box. You will need to keep
the edges free of cleats where the box is
siliconchip.com.au
300
300
25
A
90
205
(REBATE
DIAMETER)
45mm LONG
STRIPS OF 12 x 12
DAR PINE ATTACHED
TO EACH SIDE
193
19
E
201
157
HOLE DIAMETER
182
300mm
LONG CLEAT
(12 x 12)
C
600
D
REBATES
6mm DEEP
365
193
HOLE DIAMETER
182
C
L
E
SID DF)
D
M
N
HA 6mm OR
T
F
H ,1
RIG 600 WN
O
0 x SH ITY
(30 OT LAR
C
N
35mm HOLE
FOR TOP HAT
(IF REQUIRED)
300
B
300
ALL MATERIAL 16mm THICK MDF
UNLESS SPECIFIED
A & B ARE 296mm LONG STRIPS OF 18 x 18 DAR PINE
C & D ARE 600mm LONG STRIPS OF 18 x 18 DAR PINE
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
E IS 300mm LONG STRIP OF 18 x 18 DAR PINE
Fig. 15: here’s a diagram of the complete PortaPAL-D Speaker Cabinet, albeit without one side (that’s so you can see how
the electronics module housing is made). We’ve deliberately selected the sizes so that it can be made from standard sheets
of MDF (medium density fibreboard). If you have the option, we’d suggest you get the MDF supplier to cut the panels to
size for you – that way, you get nice, straight, clean cuts which make for a nice, airtight box.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 85
Fig.16 shows the typical bass end response with an unfilled 33 litre box. This shows a 2.7dB peak at about 120Hz. By
packing the space with fibreglass insulation or bonded acetate (BAF) wadding, the effective volume can be increased by as
much as 40%. This apparent increase is due to a reduction in the speed of sound in the box due to the packing. With this
filling, the 2.7dB peak can be reduced to below 2dB so that the bass response becomes more damped. A further benefit of
the wadding is a reduction of internal reflections from the cabinet walls.
made to house the PortaPAL-D chassis.
Once the glue has dried, mark out
the 205mm and 182mm rebate diameters for the two loudspeakers to sit
into on the front panel. Use a router
to cut this rebate to a depth of 6mm.
Now fully cut out the 182mm diameter
holes with the router.
If you intend to install the speaker
stand top hat, the hole for this (located
centrally in the base of the box) can
be cut now using a 35mm diameter
hole saw.
Similarly, the holes for the handle
that mounts on the top can be drilled.
While we only used (and specified
in the parts list) a single handle on top
of the box, the finished PortaPAL-D is
quite heavy (17.5kg) so can be quite
tiring if carried any distance.
You might prefer to place a handle,
say, one third the way down each side
of the box, for easier carrying by two
people. Another refinement which you
might consider is mounting four small
furniture castors or wheels, one in each
corner, to make the PortaPAL-D easier
to move. That’s up to you.
For the handle, we used two of the
screws and captured nuts that are provided with the speaker grille clamps
to mount the handle.
This leaves just three screws and
nuts for each speaker grille mounting
using the clamps. That is sufficient for
these grilles when spaced out 120° as
shown in the photographs. Position
86 Silicon Chip
the grilles over the speaker holes and
mark out the hole positions for each
clamp. Drill and attach each T-nut for
the grilles and handle(s) by tightening
up the screw to pull the nut into the
MDF. Once these nuts are secured,
remove the screws.
The front surround is 18 x 18mm
DAR pine and can be cut and glued
to the front of the box. The purpose
of this is to recess the speakers (even
though protected by grilles) from the
inevitable bumps and scrapes of a
portable system.
When the glue is dry, round off the
eight corners of the box using a rasp
or file to form the same curvature as
the corner protectors.
Electronics chassis housing
The internal MDF boxed-in section
for the PortaPAL-D chassis can now be
made. Cut the sheets and DAR pine to
size and glue these in place. Note that
there is not much clearance between
the back of the top speaker magnet and
the internal box.
There needs to be a gap between
the speaker magnet and box otherwise
resonances are likely, so check that
there is at least a 1mm gap between
the speaker and the MDF sheet before
finally gluing in place.
Note that when installing the speakers, there will be a nominal 1mm
thickness of sealant around the rebate
to seal the speaker from air gaps. This
should be considered when checking
the clearance gap.
Two 12 x 12 x 45mm DAR pine
pieces are set 19mm in from the rear
and 25mm down as shown. These
are for supporting the top of the PortaPAL-D chassis. The lower 18 x 19 x
300mm DAR pine piece supports the
lower PortaPAL-D chassis. When all
is complete, ensure that all the joints
are airtight by running a bead of PVA
glue around all internal joints.
At this stage, test the PortaPAL-D
chassis for fit into the sealed cavity.
Hopefully you will not need to make
any changes to the box so that the
chassis will fit. The advantage of having the two handles on the front panel
will be realised when trying to remove
the chassis.
Drill pilot holes for the 4g x 16mm
panhead screws that secure the panel
to the cabinet.
You may wish to paint the inside of
the PortaPAL-D chassis section of the
box black so that any exposed MDF
or pine that is not covered by carpet
is not obvious.
Carpet
The speaker carpet is attached to the
box using contact adhesive. The carpet can be cut into just three separate
pieces. First is the surround piece that
wraps around the entire sides of the
box, second is the front baffle (296 x
564mm) and third is the rear panel at
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These shots,
front and rear, show the
completed PortaPAL-D box, with carpet, handle and
corner protectors fitted, immediately before installation
of the electronics chassis (left) and the two speakers (right).
The speaker wire is already in place, emerging from the hole drilled in the left
photo for connection to the PortaPAL-D chassis.
300 x 401mm.
You will need a long straight edge to
cut the carpet along and a steel ruler
to make the measurements. A ‘Stanley’
knife (or a larger hobby knife) can be
used to cut the carpet against a cutting mat.
Cut the front baffle carpet first. Lay
it against the baffle as a sanity check
and if it appears correct, remove and
apply a smear of contact adhesive to
the front baffle. Fix the carpet in place,
smoothing out the carpet against the
baffle (a small roller is ideal).
Now for the side carpet piece: this
needs to be wide enough to also wrap
around the front 18mm DAR pine,
folding at two 90° bends to reach the
front baffle. It also has to fold around
at the back edge and reach 19mm
inside the box where the PortaPAL-D
chassis fits.
That means the carpet needs to be
389mm wide and 1864mm long. The
amount of overhang at the front while
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wrapping the length around the box
sides will need to be 36mm and the
amount at the rear at 35mm.
Again, loosely wrap the carpet
around the box to make sure it is going
to fit properly and if all is well, remove
and apply contact adhesive to the bottom of the box. Glue the beginning end
of the carpet to this with the end of
the carpet placed along the box edge.
Then apply the adhesive to the next
side and wrap the carpet around that
side taking care to maintain the correct
overhang front and back. Continue
gluing the top and then the other side,
affixing the carpet as you go. Rub your
roller (or hand) over the carpet to
smooth it out and to maintain contact
with the box till the adhesive is dry.
It’s probably best to leave the box
until the adhesive is dry to prevent
pulling away. Once you’re satisfied
that the carpet won’t move, trim each
corner with a sharp knife or scissors
to allow the carpet to wrap around the
front and back of the box. Test how
each piece will wrap around the box
before cutting off too much carpet and
before gluing in place. Any removal of
too much carpet can be covered over
with a suitable shaped extra carpet
piece carefully glued in to fill the
hole. The fold-over at the rear needs
to go down the sides into the recessed
PortaPAL-D cavity by 19mm.
The rear piece for the lower portion of the box can be cut to 300mm
wide x 401mm and this needs to start
by wrapping into the bottom edge of
the PortaPAL-D cavity by 19mm and
then glued down the 18mm DAR pine
and then the back of the 300 x 365mm
panel. The side wrap carpet can be cut
to just 16mm for the lower part of the
box allowing the 300mm width to fit.
Fittings
When the adhesive is dry, cut out
the carpet about 3mm smaller than
the 205mm perimeter of the rebate
February 2014 87
Here’s what your finished
PortaPAL-D should look like,
from the front (speaker side)
shown at left and the rear
(control side) shown at right.
With a maximum power
of 100W and a continuous
50W, you’re not going to
lack for volume – and the
comprehensive range of
mixer controls means it
will handle just about any
application. Add the
Li-Po battery and inbuilt
charger, it’s a real winner!
With 20/20 hindsight, we
would have replaced the
single carry handle with a
pair of more robust handles
on the side – it does get a little
heavy even after carrying it
a short distance! (That does
mean a two-person carry,
though). And we’d also think
about putting some small
castors or wheels on the
bottom to make it easier to
cart around.
hole for each speaker hole. Also find
the T-nuts for the speaker grill clamps
and handle and poke a hole through
the carpet at each nut. A size 2 Philips
screwdriver can do this.
If using the top hat, carefully cut out
a hole in the carpet, same diameter as
the top hat stem, and insert that into
the hole. By pressing the top hat down
in place, and using the top hat flange
as a cutting template, carefully cut the
carpet around the perimeter of the top
hat flange. Remove the circle of carpet
and reinsert the top hat. Pilot-drill the
mounting holes for this and screw in
the screws. Attach the handle to the
top of the box.
The corner protectors can now be
attached using 6g x 16mm bronzecoloured countersunk wood screws.
Installing speakers
The speakers are next and will require wiring up as they are installed.
The specified speakers (Altronics
C-2005) are 200mm, 8Ω coaxial models
and connected in parallel, to present
a 4Ω load to the amplifier.
These speakers feature push-button
terminals so no soldering is needed.
However, they must be connected in
phase; ie, plus to plus and minus to
minus. The easiest way to do this is to
cut the 1m length of 7.5A figure-8 cable
in half, bare all ends to 1cm and tightly
twist together one end of each (make
88 Silicon Chip
sure the stripes or polarity markers are
twisted together).
Drill a small hole suitable for one
of the figure-8 wires to pass through
the rear of the PortaPAL-D box cavity,
about 25mm down from the inside top.
Hang the twisted-together pair of
cables out of the top speaker hole and
the other end of one cable out of the
bottom speaker hole.
From inside the case, push the other
single figure-8 through the hole in the
box cavity.
We’ll mount the lower speaker first.
Connect the figure-8 cable to the push
terminals, with the stripe or marker
on the figure-8 going to the red (+)
terminal.
To give an air-tight seal between
speaker and box, we’re using Blu-Tack
putty. Roll a long length so that you
end up with a cylinder about 2mm in
diameter and mould this all the way
around the rebated section in the box
for the lower speaker.
Repeat until you have a solid run
of Blu-Tack all the way around (ie,
no gaps).
Pack about 90% of the wadding in
the volume behind the lower speaker
hole and slide the speaker into the
lower hole under the carpet lip that
surrounds the rebated outer hole
diameter. Press the speaker into the
hole to compress the Blu-Tack. Now
carefully (!) drill pilot holes into the
rebate at the four mounting holes on
the speaker and secure the speaker in
place with 8g x 12mm panhead screws.
Now the upper speaker. It has the
twisted-together pairs of figure-8 connecting it but there is plenty of room
in the push terminals. Once again,
ensure the striped wires go to the red
or + terminal.
Insert the remaining wadding
around the outside of the speaker hole
(but not directly behind where the
speaker goes) and install the speaker
as before using Blu-Tack and screws.
Now the grilles can be positioned over
the speakers and held in place with
the clamps.
Where the speaker wire comes
through from the speakers to the PortaPAL-D chassis, ensure that you have
plenty of cable to work with and then
seal the hole with Blu-Tack. This wire
connects to the ‘to speakers’ terminals
on the speaker protector.
A 2-way 15A terminal strip is an option to allow the ‘to speakers’ output to
be extended for an easier connection
to the speaker wire.
Insert the PortaPAL-D chassis into
the box cavity and secure using 4g x
16mm panhead screws.
Construction of the PortaPAL-D
is now finished. Turn on and check
that it works with the inbuilt battery,
then connect power and check that it
charges.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Replace Mercury
High-Bay Lights
with LEDs
by
Ross Tester
and $ave $$$
Back in February last year, we told you how we’d not only
brightened up a dingy corridor by replacing halogen downlights
with purpose-made LED fittings, we expected to significantly reduce
our power consumption in the process. Now we’re at it again – this
time replacing power-hungry mercury discharge warehouse lights.
T
he LEDs we used in that feature came from Tenrod – and
recently, another press release
arrived from them telling us about
their industrial high-bay LED fittings.
Having quite a few high-bays in our
building and knowing their shortcomings, we were immediately interested:
could these achieve the same sort of
savings and utility as we managed
last time?
High-bay?
For those who may have spent their
lives cloistered in an office or outside
in the sunshine, we’d better explain
the term “high-bay”.
They’re the light fittings of choice
in warehouses, etc and typically come
fitted with a 400W mercury discharge
lamp.
We’ve shown a photo above of one
of the high-bays in our warehouse (on
left), alongside a new LED high-bay, to
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demonstrate what we are talking about.
The most obvious difference is the
size and shape – the mercury high-bay
is significantly higher but has a more
parabolic-shaped reflector. The LED
high-bay is squatter and has a wide,
cone-shaped reflector.
Incidentally, the mch higher apparent brightness of the mercury high-bay
in this photograph does not tell the full
story. Partly this is due to the fact that
the camera sees much more light from
the reflector because the lamp radiates
over much wider angles than the LED
array. In fact if you look directly at
both lights (ie, especially on axis), the
LED array looks dramatically brighter
– nearly blinding, in fact!
As their name suggests, high-bays
are designed to be mounted high up –
usually near the roof (most industrial
areas don’t have ceilings!) more than
five metres off the ground.
They’re large (typical high-bay
fittings have a 300-400mm diameter
reflector and are perhaps 500mm
high); they’re heavy (due to the ballast
circuitry almost invariably fitted to
the top of the reflector); they’re quite
expensive (typically between $250
and $300 each) and, typically, they
take quite some time to come up to
full brightness from turn-on (perhaps
10 minutes or more).
However, when they do come fully
on, they are very bright and with the
right reflector, produce a good spread
of light.
Waiting, waiting . . .
But perhaps the worst feature of the
mercury high-bay is that if power is
interrupted, even for a moment, they
extinguish but take even longer to cool
down and then restart. So a warehouse
or production area can be plunged
into blackness for quite a number of
minutes before you have any light;
February 2014 89
Mercury
High Bay
AdvanceQuez
LED High Bay
AdvanceQuez
LED Flood
Power
Rated
400W 120W 130W
Measured
404W
118W
133W
Brightness
Dedicated light meter
(Digitech QM1587)
550 lux
3060 lux
13620 lux
Multimeter with lux measurement
(Digitech QM1580)
760 lux
4330 lux
19980 lux
Photographic light meter on “EV/
ambient” setting (Minolta IV-F)
7.7 EV
9.9 EV
12.1 EV
22000 typ.
>9000
10800
Lumen output (manufacturer’s data)
“Real world” measurements comparing the three lamp types. These were
all taken on-axis at 4 metres, after 15 minutes to ensure full warm-up. The
apparent discrepancy between the lumen output of the mercury high-bay
and the LED models is due to the more diffuse pattern of the mercury. In
fact, on the floor below, the LED light pattern is significantly brighter to both
the eye and to instruments. EV, or exposure value, is more a photographic
measurement but being related to aperture and f-stops, gives a relative
measure between the light sources. Both LED fixtures were “cool white” with
a colour temperature of 5600-6500K.
not good when there is machinery or
moving equipment!
We just mentioned a moment ago
that they are normally fitted with a
400W mercury lamp. Thankfully,
these have quite a long life because
(a) the bulbs are expensive and (b) getting up to change lamps can be quite
a chore with a scissor-lift typically
being required.
But it’s not only the lamp that’s draining power: the ballast gets rather warm
and you are paying for that heating.
We measured a couple of mercury
high-bays and found them to draw
around 404W each. Multiply this by
the number in a typical warehouse –
anywhere from a dozen or so up to
perhaps 50+ in a big installation and
you can see that you are up for many
kilowatts of (now very costly) power.
If those lights are on for 14 hours
a day (by no means uncommon) just
one of those high-bays could be costing more than $800 per annum (at
current business electricity rates of
about 40c/kWh).
How to reduce that power?
What if you could get at least as
much – and probably much more –
light output from your high-bay at a
little more than a quarter of the consumption? Obviously, that means a
quarter of the cost of electricity as well.
We are talking LED replacements
Definitely not the reflector
shape you’re used to with the
older mercury high-bays – and
at 510mm diameter, these LED
high-bays are much wider. But
you can enjoy significantly
more light output AND save a
lot of power into the bargain!
One other big advantage the
LED high-bay has over its
mercury cousin is significantly
lower UV output – normally
not a factor but certainly can
be in some installations, such
as indoor sporting venues.
90 Silicon Chip
for your existing lamps. Once again,
these were supplied by Tenrod – and
they had two different styles available
for us to look at.
LED high-bay
One is a straight swap for the ubiquitous mercury discharge high-bay.
The fitting looks somewhat like a traditional high-bay, albeit with a simple
conical reflector rather but instead of
the mercury lamp (and ballast) it has
a 50-LED CREE fitting, with a rather
impressive 9000 lumen ouput.
When we say bright, it’s too bright to
look into without ending up with these
dark patches in your eyesight, which
persist for quite some time!
At 6m distance from the light, illuminance is 401 lux, dropping to 168
lux at 10m. Naturally, at 10m you get a
much wider beam spread and is much
more suited to the high-level use you’d
expect in warehouses, etc.
On top of the LED high-bay is what
looks like a traditional mercury ballast
but is in fact simply a large heatsink.
The 230V mains power supply is separate, on an attached lead. But in effect,
the LED high-bay really is a drop-in
replacement for the mercury high-bay.
It doesn’t have the long “power up”
time of mercury lamps – for all intents
and purposes, it appears to be “instant
on”. Measurement does show a slight
increase in level over time but you’d
be hard-pressed to notice it. And it
comes on immediately if turned off and
back on again. No more stumbling in
the dark saying undeleted expletives!
LED life is rated at 35,000 hours –
that’s four years of 24-hour-a-day operation. LEDs being LEDs, less frequent
use would undoubtedly stretch this out
much further.
Specifications of this lamp fitting
are shown above. Using the same electricity rate as we did for the mercury
high-bays, you would save more than
$500 each year for each high-bay you
replaced. But even better – in a typical
warehouse you should be able to use
fewer LED high-bays, maybe 20-25%
less.
One futher point: all the comparisons are taken with clean lamps. We’ve
found that over time mercury highbays become very dusty – both the
globe and the reflector – which further
reduces light output.
LED floodlight
The second fitting is much smaller –
siliconchip.com.au
The light dispersion from the fittings is dependent on the position of the light source within the reflector, the amount of
collimation (much more in a LED than in a discharge lamp) and shape of the reflector. These three photos were taken
from identical distances under the lamps and shows the dispersion. The left pic is that of the mercury vapour (discharge)
lamp – wide dispersion and the lamp source at (or close to) the focal point of the reflector. The middle shot is that of the
LED high-bay – a rather different pattern from a rather different looking reflector. The right pic shows the LED floodlight,
a different shaped reflector again but with much wider dispersion pattern. The LED high-bay is intended to be mounted
up high – in large warehouses, for example, it could be ten metres or more off the ground.
in fact, it looks more like a replacement
for a traditional halogen floodlight.
And so it is, being designed more for
outdoor use with an IP65 rating (total
dust and low-pressure water protected)
and an even higher 50,000 hour rating
on the LEDs.
Unlike the single-wattage high-bay,
the floodlight is available in 30, 130
and 200 watt versions, with luminous
flux of, respectively, 2500, 10,800 and
– wait for it – 15,800 lumens! That’s
for the cool white versions, warm white
are significantally lower.
While intended for vertical installation on a wall, (again, being LEDs)
we would assume that it wouldn’t get
upset at being mounted at other angles
or positions. The same cannot be said
for halogen bulbs – mounting them at
any angle off horizontal can (sometimes dramatically) shorten their life.
You might wonder why we included
this LED fitting in this review, given the
fact that we were basically looking at
high-bay replacements.
Well, from experience we know that
in warehouses and industrial premises,
there are a lot accidents where (for
example) a forklift mast takes out a
high-bay – especially if there is limited
headroom.
We reasoned that these floodlighttype fittings, with a height of only
375mm, could be an ideal replacement. Add to that the polycarbonate/
aluminium construction and the IP65
rating and they could be used virtually
anywhere. Even the larger 200W model
siliconchip.com.au
is only 400mm high.
The smaller (and cheaper) 30W
model would be ideal for filling in dark
corners and, for example, the spaces
between pallet racking where the main
lights can’t quite get to.
The verdict
These LED replacements are not
cheap, especially if you have a large
area with large numbers of mercury
high-bays to replace.
The savings are undoubtedly there,
simple maths will tell you that you’d
be well in front after a few years.
Replacing mercury high-bays, even
with the saving, is a significant capital cost for most organisations – but
we believe a well worthwhile one. If
you’re talking a new building, it’s a
no-brainer!
And if you suffer damage from wayward forklifts (or anything else!) and/
or have limited headroom then once
again, you really should be looking at
the LED floodlight fittings.
Where from, how much?
Both the high-bay and LED floodlight
came from Tenrod Australia, 24 Vore St,
Silverwater NSW 2128. (02) 9748 0655
www.tenrodlighting.com.au
The high-bay retails for $650.00+gst,
while the 130W LED Floodlight sells
for $740.00 +gst. For 10 or more there
SC
are discounted prices.
Here’s the IP65-rated (ie,
external use) LED Floodlight,
with its Cree 50-LED array
clearly visible (go on, count
’em!). It really is very bright,
as our temporary blindness
can attest to when taking the
photos! While this is designed
to replace vertically-mounted
wall floodlights, we see no
reason why it could not be
used horizontally inside or
out, especially in areas with
limited headroom. In fact,
the multi-position mounting
bracket suggests it is intended
to be used at any angle.
February 2014 91
Vintage Radio
By Kevin Poulter & Stan Snyders
Rescued from the junk pile
& fully restored . . .
A 1925 Freed-Eisemann Neutrodyne
Salvaged from an old storage shed in outback Queensland, this
rare 1925 Freed-Eisemann neutrodyne set was in poor condition,
with a dilapidated, water-damaged cabinet and missing parts.
Restoring it to as-new condition proved quite a challenge.
F
REED-EISEMANN RADIOS were
so popular in 1924 that they sold
around $US4.5 million worth – more
than all the other 12 neutrodynelicensed brands combined. This type
of radio was licensed for manufacturing under the Hazeltine patents owned
by Independent Radio Manufacturers
Inc.
The Freed-Eisemann company was
run by Joseph Freed, Alexander Eisemann and Arthur Freed. They stated in
their advertising that they felt “personally responsible” for the performance
of their radio sets. These sets were
craftsman-built and you can see the
high quality right throughout their
radios – from the cabinet to the chassis
and the overall design.
In 2008, HRSA member Stan Snyders was travelling from Queensland
back to his home in Victoria. Stopping
92 Silicon Chip
for a short break and fuel in the remote
outback Queensland town of Surat,
he looked for a junk shop. An old
wooden storage shed with a concrete
and dirt floor and lots of junk looked
promising. It was run by a woman
supplementing her farmer husband’s
income during tough drought times.
Scanning the junk, it didn’t take
long for Stan to spot a real gem. Sitting
on the dirt floor with half a petrolengined water pump on top, was what
looked like the back of a 1920s coffinstyle radio. When the dust was wiped
away, the front panel indicated that it
was a Freed-Eisemann Model NR-7.
Unfortunately, it was badly damaged, with the top lid bowed and
split along its length, due mainly to
the heavy petrol engine that had been
placed on top. The inside had also
been stripped of some parts and the
wooden cabinet was clearly waterdamaged. However, the three large RF
coils were still in place and so were
the three tuning capacitors with their
very large black Bakelite knobs.
Sitting next to each RF coil was a
UX-base valve socket. Incredibly, each
of these sockets was fitted with an
80 rectifier valve, so someone in the
past clearly didn’t have a clue about
what they were doing. The rest of the
circuitry was missing.
Only the holes left on the front panel
gave a clue as to what may have been
there. It was obvious from the layout
that the radio had been designed and
constructed in two halves. An RF
(radio-frequency) section which was
largely still present and an AF (audiofrequency) section which was the part
that was missing. All the internal
wiring still present used solid round
siliconchip.com.au
copper wires covered with black cloth
spaghetti.
The only cotton-covered wire was
a section of the battery cable. The rats
had eaten the rest of it. And every cable
exit hole had been gnawed around the
edges, leaving deep grooves.
The $50 asking price for the set
seemed reasonable so Stan asked the
proprietress about its history. She told
him that it had been found at a local
cattle station clearance-sale two years
before and was part of an auction lot.
Unfortunately, she couldn’t remember
the name of the cattle station but it
was obvious that the original owner
had purchased this upmarket set to
pick up distant stations like Brisbane.
She also said that since the dirt floor
of the old shed often flooded when it
rained, the more valuable petrol engine had been placed on top to protect
it from the water! No matter – this set
was too good to pass up, so Stan paid
the $50 and took the set with him.
Restoration
“Old Freed” subsequently sat on the
workshop bench for two months, then
Stan took digital photos to later serve
as a guide when it came to putting it
back together again later on. Taking
a few photos can be a real time-saver
when it comes to radio restoration.
Having taken the photos, Stan began
the disassembly. The poor state of the
cabinet and other parts meant that it
had to be completely stripped down
before restoration could begin.
First, the front panel and the attach
ed RF section were removed and put
to one side. The rationale at this stage
was that if the cabinet could be made to
look like new, it would provide suffi-
This 1925 advert for Freed-Eisemann radios boasted that the company had
outsold all the other 12 neutrodyne receiver manufacturers combined.
This is the view inside the cabinet of the fully restored receiver. The RF section is at the left, while the detector plus
audio stages are at the righthand end. Note the two gold-finished interstage transformers in the audio section.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2014 93
Fig.1: the Freed-Eisemann NR-7 is a battery-powered 6-valve TRF receiver with antenna tuning, two tuned RF stages,
a detector stage and two audio stages. Note that the final audio stage consists of two triodes connected in parallel.
cient incentive to restore the circuitry.
If not, the radio would be stripped for
the parts.
Cabinet
The timber case came apart very
easily, the various joints having been
weakened due to frequent soaking,
sun bleaching and abuse. Each timber
panel was then washed in soapy water, then stripped with paint stripper.
There were five panels in all, consisting
of the three sides, the base and the lid.
The split lid was repaired by gluing
the two broken halves together and
then clamping them while the glue
dried. Two-pack epoxy was used,
rather than PVA wood glue.
Next, the four remaining panels,
now clean of dirt and paint, were
soaked for three days in a bathtub,
to prepare them for straightening.
The panels were then stacked on top
of each other with several sheets of
newspaper between them and placed
in a hydraulic press. About 200kg of
pressure was applied and the set-up
left for three weeks, allowing the
wood to dry thoroughly. At the end of
this period, the panels were perfectly
straight again.
Each panel was then thoroughly
sanded, starting with 80 grit Free-Cut
sandpaper and finishing with 120 grit.
Repairing the damaged rear panel
was the most difficult part of the case
restoration. Some of the gnawed holes
were repaired by simply sanding but
94 Silicon Chip
others needed major filling. The trick
to making a repair invisible is to use
the right colour filler and this was arrived at by experimenting on the back
of the baseboard. Applying a little
linseed oil to a small area brings out
the timber’s colour – a good indication
of the filler colour needed.
“Timber Mate” wood fillers are water-based, non-shrinking and readily
available. The trick is to select the filler
that’s the closest to the desired colour,
then fine-tune the colour by mixing in
a little colour pigment. Artist’s acrylic
paint can also be used. Properly done,
the repair can be invisible.
At this stage, the case was ready
to be reassembled and this was done
using PVA wood glue and new slotted
wood screws. Any excess glue was
removed using a damp cloth before it
dried. Once assembled, the case was
clamped, checked with a square and
the glue allowed to cure for several
days.
Restoring the timber colour
The sun, dirt and rain had all taken a
toll on the timber and much of the natural colour had been lost over decades
of abuse. Stan’s friend and woodworking guru, Doug Ellis, had the answer.
Before painting, the trick is to prepare
a solution of green and yellow pigment
in methylated spirits. This solution
needs to be weak and trans
lucent and
is applied to the timber using a small
square of cotton cloth. It’s then allowed
to dry, after which a second or third
coat is applied as required.
When this was done, the wetted
wood immediately took on depth and
patina. This colour-burst disappears as
the methylated spirits evaporates but
then returns again when the timber is
clear-painted. A light sand using 180
grit is recommended before applying
the first coat of clear polyurethane.
Finishing coats method
Stan achieved spectacular results using satin oil-based clear polyurethane
paint. First, three coats were applied,
with 24 hours between each application to allow the previous coat to dry.
These first three coats don’t need to
be carefully applied, as a few brush
strokes will make no difference to
the final finish (and nor will a few
dust speckles). In fact, these first three
coats are applied simply to fill the
woodgrain and give depth to the finish.
Once the third coat has been applied, the cabinet was left to stand for
three days to allow the polyurethane
to cure. Stan then used 600 grade wet
& dry paper and a solution of warm
soapy water to rub back the painted
area while taking care not to damage
any mouldings. The resulting white
milky paste was simply wiped away
with a damp cloth during this procedure.
The sanded areas were then left to
dry, after which two more coats of
polyurethane were applied and left to
siliconchip.com.au
Rear view showing the large coils and the two wirewound rheostats. The entire detector/audio board on the left was
missing from the salvaged unit and had to be rebuilt from scratch, using photos obtained via the internet as a guide.
cure for another three days. The panels
were then again rubbed back using
600 grade wet & dry paper and warm
soapy water, as previously described.
Once dry, a final coat of polyurethane was applied using a soft longhaired brush and allowed to cure. This
was then gently rubbed back with 0000
steel wool and linseed oil.
The accompanying photos show the
end result, with the timbers brought
back to life. In fact, the cabinet now
looked so good that it inspired Stan
to tackle stage two – the electronics.
Parts-gathering
Having restored the cabinet, it then
took Stan a further 18 months to collect sufficient original parts to begin
restoring the circuit. There were some
good finds along the way, with most of
the parts, including the missing knobs,
coming through eBay and contact with
fellow collectors.
One of the most spectacular finds
was the unique on-off-volume switch
– it was new in its box (1925 stock)
and cost just $8! The missing highshoulder UV sockets (for the short-pin
201 valves) were located, while the
6Ω and 10Ω rheostats came from the
HRSA’s Valve Bank.
A Google search soon located the
circuit, along with photographs of
the chassis. This information was
invaluable, especially for the missing
audio stages. Stan wanted the set to
look like it had just left the factory, so
authenticity was paramount.
First, the RF stage was disassembled
from the black face escutcheon and
given a clean with warm, soapy water. The two rheostats and the rotary
siliconchip.com.au
switch for on/off/medium/loud were
missing and someone had badly
drilled a jagged 20mm-hole where
the switch had been. This hole was
repaired using 2-pack cast 306 epoxy
resin with a black primary pigment
(available at fibreglass stores and craft
shops), to match the original colour.
The entire hole was filled, then cut
with 600 wet and dry and polished,
to give an invisible repair.
Cast 306 epoxy is easy to work
with and machines really well. It’s
produced by a company called Solid
Solutions in Moorabbin, Victoria. This
epoxy is also suitable for making knobs
and doing other repairs. Any colour
can be made, using primary pigments.
The next step involved restoring all
the border lines and lettering on the
faceplate and knobs (they had faded to
almost grey). All the Freed-Eisemann
set’s graphics were originally gold, so
a ‘Power Plus’ Contessa Gold (PJ6160)
automotive spray can was used (avail-
able from Supercheap Auto or AutoBarn) for this job.
After shaking the can vigorously,
Stan sprayed a small amount into the
cap. Then, using a very fine touch-up
brush, the paint was smeared into
the grooves of the letters and edging
and left to dry. A second layer was
then applied, as required. Once dry,
the excess was rubbed off using a fine
cotton cloth dipped in a small amount
of acrylic thinners.
Valves & audio stage
The Freed-Eisemann Model NR-7
used UX-201A triode valves throughout (six in all) but the CX-301A can also
be used, as can power triode valves
such as the UX171A and UX112. The
required valves (UX-201A) were all
obtained through various enthusiasts
and via the internet.
The missing audio section was made
by following photographs of complete
NR-7 radios. Two brass brackets need-
The two 1µF capacitors mounted under the RF stage were still operational,
while the new multi-way battery cable was obtained from stock especially
made for the HRSA valve bank.
February 2014 95
The only fixed resistor in the circuit is the 2MΩ grid leak
resistor for the detector valve. It’s mounted between two
clips above a 0.00025µF (250pF) mica capacitor.
ed manufacturing, so brass stock with
the same profile as the brackets in the
RF area was obtained from a company
in Clayton, Victoria that specialises
in brass profiles. This brass stock was
then cut and bent to shape.
The most difficult items to acquire
were the two interstage transformers. Only originals could be used, as
Freed-Eisemann wound their own.
They were autograph embossed on
the metal band around the transformer
and finished in gold plating, so they
really looked the part! Once again, the
internet came to the rescue.
Grid resistor
The only fixed resistor in the entire
circuit is the 2MΩ grid resistor for the
detector valve. This clips into two
brackets mounted at either end of a
0.00025µF (250pF) mica capacitor
(see photo). These parts also had to
be replaced.
RF stages
After initially cleaning the RF parts,
all three variable tuning capacitors
were disassembled and placed in an
ultrasonic cleaner. Their aluminium
vanes and frames were then finished
off by scrubbing them with a toothbrush, after which the bearings were
oiled and the parts reassembled. They
came up looking like new.
The RF coils are rather large and
have khaki windings. However, the
coils were very discoloured, so they
were removed from the chassis and
painted with artist’s acrylic paint
mixed with water to a runny slurry.
This was virtually a dye which the
double cotton-covered coils absorbed
perfectly. After three coats, the result
was exactly as envisaged.
As previously stated, all the wiring
96 Silicon Chip
This close-up view shows one of the variable capacitors
after it had been ultrasonically cleaned, scrubbed with a
toothbrush and re-assembled. It now looks like new.
in the RF stage used round copper
wires covered with heavy black sleeving. This wiring was in poor condition,
so it was replaced and covered in heavy
black spaghetti insulation.
A new cloth-covered, multi-core DC
power cable, obtained from the HRSA
Valve Bank, was also installed.
Alignment
The first and second RF stages in
Freed-Eisemann Model NR7 need to
be aligned (or “neutralised”), with no
heater voltage applied to the valve in
the section currently being neutralised.
One way of removing the heater
voltage would be to unsolder the supply lead to the relevant section each
time it’s neutralised, then re-connect
on completion. However, that’s messy
and time-consuming, so Stan made
an adapter socket, comprising a spare
socket mounted on top of the pin assembly from a dud valve. This assembly has the grid and plate connected
but not the heater pins.
This simple adapter enables the
valve to be ‘in circuit’ but effectively
disconnects the heater voltage.
The alignment procedure is as follows: first, with all valves in place, a
radio station at the top end of the band
is tuned. That done, one RF valve is
removed, placed in the special adapter
and the assembly fitted back in place.
The relevant neutralising capacitor is
then adjusted until no sound is heard.
As an aside, it’s also possible to
discard the adaptor and simply use
a valve with an open-circuit heater.
However, it’s still better to neutralise
the grid and plate of the valve that will
actually be used in the set.
Audio levels
When set to its mid-position, the
rotary switch applies voltage to the
heater of the first stage audio valve.
This gives a volume that’s more than
adequate for everyday listening and
can be adjusted by a rheostat, which
changes the heater voltage.
Switching to the ‘loud’ position
engages the heaters of a further two
201A’s wired in parallel (ie, the second
audio stage). If the local stations are too
loud, then one of the 201A valves can
be removed! Note also that if a power
triode valve like a UX171A or UX112
is used in the second stage audio, just
one is needed – in either valve socket.
The weakest 201A is used for the
detector, as it doesn’t need a high mu
(voltage gain). The highest mu valve
is fitted to the first audio stage, as
that’s where the most amplification
takes place.
The audio output is fed via a phono
jack under the 3-position switch. Stan
tried horn speakers and headphones
but the frequency range of a horn
speaker is pretty awful for music. In
the end, a PA speaker with an 8-inch
(200mm) loudspeaker was used and
is connected via an audio transformer
with a 7kΩ primary. This improved the
listening quality no end.
Performance
In operation, the NR-7 is very sensitive and selective and is one of the
best performing sets in Stan’s collection. By using a 30m-long wire aerial,
stations from NSW, SA and Tasmania
are received just like local Melbourne
stations.
Stan believes that this excellent
performance is largely due to the huge
coils that this set uses in the RF stages.
They are certainly much bigger than
those used by most of the set’s other
SC
competitors.
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SELF ON AUDIO
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00
See
Review
April
2011
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
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The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
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A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
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AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
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Concern over
Alcolyser calibration
After reading your Alcolyser article
in the November 2013 issue, I felt the
need to share my findings about the
Jaycar QM-7302 alcohol tester. I purchased one for myself and decided to
test it (several times) before trusting it.
The results were believable and very
consistent.
A friend was also interested, so I
purchased one for him. I decided to
test that one (several times) as well
before giving it to him. But this one
proved to be very different to the first;
even worse, it read low with nearly
half the reading of the first one.
My conscience would not let me
give it to my friend, so I obtained a
replacement and naturally tested that
one as well. It was the same as the
previous one. The test involved consuming four standard drinks in one
hour and breath samples were taken
after each drink. All units tested had
new alkaline batteries.
With the second and third units I
obtained, one standard drink did not
even register. It would give the user
a false sense of security and possibly
cause him to lose his license.
All that I want is another one that
matches my first tester. Do I keep try-
ing more testers? I am 100km from the
store that I purchased it from. Can you
show your readers how to verify that
their tester is not reading low, whether
used as an Alcolyser or as a standalone tester? (D. H., Mourilyan, Qld).
• Unfortunately, breath testing people after 10 minutes is really not the
way to go to check the calibration of
the instrument. You need to wait at
least 30 minutes and there are huge
variations between people so be careful before you drive!
Major breweries and distilleries
use a specially standardised and precalibrated 0.05% gas line to check
breath testing devices. If you don’t
have this then you need to set up the
Alcolyser as described in the article
and use exactly 1.0 gram of blended
whisky (40% ABV) in 199 grams of
water and then the temperature must
be exactly 40°C . The reading should
be close to 0.22 BAC on the QM7302.
This is the only way to establish a
“baseline” for your particular device
and if it differs, then you can adjust
the conversion chart accordingly or
return the instrument.
The Alcolyser is designed for testing the alcohol content of liquids and
we are relying on the accuracy of the
QM7302 as specified. If it falls outside
the specifications then it should be
returned. We had three of these units
and their readings were identical under controlled conditions.
Running a cordless
drill with a cord!
OK, you have given us a way to
upgrade our cordless drill batteries, in
the article entitled “Fire Up Your Cordless Drill”, in the October 2013 issue.
What about those of us who have the
drill and an almost endless supply of
power, ie, a nearby power point? Can
you now give us a circuit to power our
drill from the mains?
Without the heavy battery pack, this
would be a great lightweight drill or
power driver; the cable hanging off
the back is not always a problem. (J.
C., via email).
• You should first refer to our article
entitled “Recycle Your Cordless Drill
– Make it Corded” in the December
2010 issue. The idea in that article
is to run it from a variety of 12V DC
sources – no circuit has to be built. But
we suppose the next thing you’ll want
is to run a higher voltage drill from a
mains supply at, say, 18V or 24V DC?
This is far less practical and is quite
expensive. In that case, you need a suitably large step-down transformer with
an 18V or 24V secondary winding. You
Fluorescent Light Starter Project Update Wanted
I wonder if I might ask you a
question about one of your old “Electronics Australia” projects from the
October 1982 issue? The project
in question is the electronic fluoro
starter which has sparked interest
recently during a late night venture
into the kitchen to be greeted by
the “flash, flash, flash” of the light.
I built several of these way back for
the lights of my boyhood home and
they are still going strong today.
I sourced the article from a friend’s
collection of magazines, made a couple of PCBs and built them using the
98 Silicon Chip
DB3 Diacs. Imagine my horror when
neither of them worked. I can only
assume that the DB3 Diac is similar
to the ST4 Diac that the original article warns against. Jaycar advertise
the original ST2 in their catalog but
they are in fact the DB3s.
May I suggest revisiting this project as a possible inclusion in SILICON
CHIP for the future but updated using
currently available components?
Any idea as to why the current DB3
Diac doesn’t work? I am using BT151
SCRs. (P. C., via email).
• That EA circuit should work OK
with any Diac that has a symmetrical
break-over voltage of about 30V. SILICON CHIP effectively superseded that
project with our own design in the
August 1996 issue, using a Philips
UBA2000T fluorescent starter IC.
Unfortunately, the PCB for that project is no longer available.
However, we don’t think it is
worthwhile updating either project since commercial electronic
fluorescent starters are now readily
available. If you cannot find one
locally, you can get them via eBay
quite cheaply.
siliconchip.com.au
Low Harmonic Distortion Isn’t The Only Important Parameter
I would like to comment on your
many ultra high fidelity stereo amplifier projects. I have built a few
of these projects over the years
including the (famous?) ETI 5000
stereo amplifier and preamp. I have
noticed that the emphasis is always
on the distortion figures. And you
always try to get the distortion figure
down as low as possible.
But I do wonder if this the only
important parameter in the overall
sound performance of a high-fidelity
amplifier? Maybe not.
I feel that the emphasis must be
also on other things like the dynamics in reproducing the presence of
the various instruments in a piece
of music to true dimension. I also
wonder why amplifiers like the
Musical Fidelity (and many others)
brand cost thousands of dollars.
Surely they do not use gold-plated
components but obviously I think
the use circuitry and components
which reproduce those dynamics of
need to fit a bridge rectifier rated at 20A
or more and the transformer will need
a rating of around 300VA to cope with
the high current demands of a typical
cordless drill.
Adjustable switch-off
for a golf-cart charger
As a great fan of SILICON CHIP over
many many years I always check out
my past issues for help with a new
project. This time, however, I need
some direct help. My project is to get
together a circuit that can switch off
a golf-cart battery charger at a preset
voltage and then reset at a preset lower
voltage to recommence charging.
SILICON CHIP has plenty of adaptable
projects but none that I can locate to
operate in the range of say 10-63V DC.
I want both high cut-in and low cut-in
presets adjustable, of course, so that it
could be used for 36V or 48V systems.
There are a few out there in market but
they seem to be fairly expensive. (J. N.,
Mt Maunganui, NZ).
• The most applicable project we
have is the Simple Voltage Switch from
December 2008. It is not designed for
such a wide voltage range but it could
siliconchip.com.au
true sounds to absolute precision. I
would like your comments on this
issue and also your view as to why
these amplifiers cost thousands and
some many thousand of dollars. (P.
T., via email).
• If an amplifier truly has low distortion figures then all those other
vague “musical” qualities like dynamics will automatically be good.
The fact that some amplifiers cost
many thousands of dollars does not
guarantee anything. In fact, some
very expensive amplifiers do not
have low distortion figures at all and
are sold on the claim that they are
“musical” or whatever.
Incidentally, we did not hold the
ETI 5000 in very high regard. Its
distortion figures were OK for the
time but it used Mosfet output stages
which are not particularly linear and
they are prone to supersonic oscillation. That is a big problem!
Furthermore, Mosfet output stages
provide a relatively high source im-
be powered from its own 12V plugpack
supply and the 1MΩ resistive divider
for the signal voltage input altered
to divide down to below 8V to suit
the input voltage range required. The
hysteresis (VR2) sets the low voltage
setting, while the reference voltage setting (VR1) is for the upper switch-off
voltage adjustment.
A heavier current rating relay may
be required, depending on the current the relay contacts need to carry.
However, it does seem strange that
the golf-cart charger does not already
switch off when the battery is charged.
Urbanised possum
deterrent wanted
Like many people, we have problems with urbanised possums in Melbourne – soiling the paths, decks etc. I
am wondering if you might consider a
project to produce an ultrasonic oscillator/amplifier that can be operated
over an extended period, ie, overnight?
(C. C., via email).
• It would be possible to modify our
Barking Dog Blaster from the September 2012 issue but the software would
need to be modified for continuous
pedance (by comparison to bipolar
transistors) which limits their ability
to drive very low load impedances
which can occur with some loudspeakers which have savage dips in
their impedance curves.
We should add that even some
very expensive loudspeakers have
very uneven impedance curves
which do cause problems with audio amplifiers. In our opinion, such
loudspeakers are badly designed.
On the other hand, amplifiers
should be able to cope with such
speakers and some clearly cannot.
Many home-theatre amplifiers are
optimised for 6Ω loads and will not
work well with impedances of 4Ω
or less.
So in a roundabout way, we have
indicated that distortion is not the
only important performance characteristic. But taking our first comment
again, if an amplifier truly has low
distortion, these other problems will
have been dealt with by the designer.
operation. Alternatively, a movement
detector could be used to just trigger
the unmodified Dog Blaster unit when
it detected the possum to sound for the
timer duration.
Continuous running would be real
noise pollution though and an annoyance to any animals with ultrasonic
hearing such as dogs if it were to run
throughout the night.
Signal booster
for smart phone
Most smart phones are not so smart
in the country where signal strength
is low. Further, they don’t have an
external antenna input (my Samsung
has a ‘service port’ that is an antenna
connection and I bricked my phone
trying it out)!
You can buy passive antenna coupler leads for the right antenna but
these do a really poor job compared
with a direct connection. Is it possible
to improve the signal by a tuned circuit coupler to the phone: eg, on the
Telstra 3G network at 850MHz? Is this
a project worth pursuing? It would be
for me! (P. M., Black Rock, Vic).
• To improve long distance reception
February 2014 99
Possible Faulty Micro In Tank Gauge Project
I recently purchased a kit for the
Ultrasonic Water Tank Level gauge
that was published in your September 2011 magazine. I have assembled
the kit and it all works perfectly at
the default settings of 330mm (full)
and 1000mm (empty).
I can change the empty setting to
1200mm and the unit still works
correctly. However, when I try to
change the full setting to 70mm or
200mm, all the LEDs flash at the
correct rate etc indicating that the
new full level has been set but now
the only indication I get when S2 is
pushed is the full LED on, even if the
unit is moved to the empty position.
I am able to reset to the default
settings and all works correctly. Is
there a way to set the full level to
something other than 330mm or
in the country you need to boost the
transmit and the receive signals from
the mobile. It is possible to obtain
boosters from overseas sources to do
this but the big problem is that they
are banned in Australia by ACMA
(Australian Communications & Media
Authority). The only way that you
can legally boost your mobile phone’s
reception is to use it in a car with a
hands-free kit and an external antenna.
Another lump in the
coax project
Thank you for the Mini Audio Mixer
project. What I like most about the
design, other than the high quality, is
the isolated power supply. This makes
me wonder if such a design could be
have I got a faulty controller chip in
the kit? (G. A., via email).
• It appears that the EEPROM location that stores the full setting is not
being written to correctly. Check that
the 5V supply is within tolerance
(4.85-5.15V). You could try replacing
the 1µF supply decoupling capacitor
at IC1 or connecting a 10µF across
the pins (pin 5 and 14 with the plus
to pin 14). Then try and recalibrate.
Otherwise it seems the PIC has
faulty EEPROM. If you have access
to a PIC programmer, you could
change the software to use different EEPROM locations and you can
reprogram the PIC. That may avoid
the faulty EEPROM location. However, the simple approach would be
to obtain a new micro programmed
with the software.
applied to a common audio problem
of “levels” when it comes to recording
for radio & TV.
Here is my basic understanding of
the typical signal levels (using a rough
interpretation of dBu):
(1) -40dB = microphone
(2) -10dB = CD player/keyboard/
“consumer level”
(3) 0dB = “Pro-consumer level”
(4) +4dB = “Pro level / studio level”
(5) +10dB = “Broadcast level”
(6) +24dB = “Transmission level”
A problem frequently arises in
corporate audio-visual work when
members of the media (radio & TV) ask
for a record feed from the sound desk.
More often then not, the auxiliaries are
all wound up to maximum but the signal is still weak with a bucket-load of
hiss. This is because their cameras and
recording equipment are expecting a
minimum of +4dB and ideally +10dB.
Cheap sound desks only put out
-10dB on auxiliary outputs and 0dB on
the main outputs. Good sound desks
bump up the main outputs to +4dB
but make high-power auxiliaries an
optional upgrade. Broadcast sound
desks can easily put out +10dB from
any output.
Some film, TV and radio people are
happy to use a middle of the range
sound desk for their own personal
mixing and only ever use the main
outputs (+4dB). However, in the corporate AV world, the main outputs (from
a middle-of-the-range sound desk) are
usually driving the PA system, so the
media feed has to come from the auxiliaries (-10dB and usually unbalanced).
There are some nice active media
splitters on the market (Quest, Whirlwind, Leon Audio, ARX) which can
balance a signal and add around 12dB
of gain. Typically, these offer 12 channels and cost thousands of dollars.
I was thinking that SILICON CHIP
could design a new device like a 2-way
or 4-way splitter which could take a
balanced/unbalanced -10dB input and
boost it up to +10dB balanced/unbalanced output. This would be a handy
piece of kit for freelance media who
want the best possible audio signal for
their recordings.
I’m guessing that aiming for +24dB
may be a little excessive as my calculations suggest that this would require
supply rails of ±18VDC. Maybe this
could be an optional upgrade for very
long cable runs. There are some line
level shifting devices on the market
(both active and passive). The active
devices use plugpack power supplies
and seem to add noise and distortion.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The passive devices sound muffled,
with a reduced bandwidth. A selfpowered device with clean sound like
the “lump-in-the-coax” would be nice.
(P. S., via email).
• Designing a device such as you
are describing should be possible. It
would probably need to draw more
current than the Lump-in-Coax to give
good noise performance but you could
still get hundreds of hours from a small
Li-Po battery.
We would design something similar
to the “High Performance Microphone
Preamplifier” from September 2010
except that it would use a lower-noise
rail-to-rail op amp such as the TL974
which draws 1.4mA/amplifier but has
performance similar to the NE5532 or
LM833. A pair of these driving a balanced output from a 4.2V rail should
be able to deliver nearly 3V RMS
which equates to +11.7dBu.
So it should be possible to amplify
from -10dBu to between -10dBu and
+10dBu using a single-cell LiPo battery and with a signal-to-noise ratio
of over 90dB. As you suggest, to get
+24dB would require a more complex
power supply or mains power but that
would be possible.
Queries on
power Mosfets
I have a query about power Mosfets.
High power FETs come in the TO220
package. Some can pass up to 50A, yet
their connection leads are very thin
with small spacing between leads. I
guess the leads are larger than 50A
fuse filaments but they are well under
the specification for the size of a copper conductor necessary for limiting
excessive heat build up (at 50A).
Why do the leads not blow at high
currents? Say I wish to connect a FET
to a 15A size conductor: How could
this be done with such small lead
spacings?
On another matter, some project
articles state that gate drive should
not be hindered with too much series
resistance, yet the FET in the reverse
polarity protection circuit in the
Circuit Notebook pages of the April
2012 issue uses a 100kΩ gate resistor!
What are the design parameters when
it comes gate series resistance? (H. W.,
via email).
• You are right that TO-220 package
legs are thinner than a copper conductor rated for 50A+ (some TO-220 desiliconchip.com.au
Digital Audio Delay Design Question
I built Nicholas Vinen’s Digital
Audio Delay (December 2011) and
it’s now working. The article cites
a discontinued Jaycar universal remote and its set-up code. I already
have a Logitech Touch universal
remote but it uses on-line configuration which expects you to input the
VCR model. So now I’m trawling the
web looking for Philips VCR model
numbers but nothing seems to work.
What strikes me as strange is that
‘mute’ is used as one of the codes.
Why would a VCR have a ‘mute’
function? So now I’m thinking it’s
a TV with built-in VCR but I still
can’t find it. My question is, what
criteria did he use in choosing the
RC5 codes? What is the TV/VCR
model? (M. I., via email).
• Unfortunately, the booklets that
came with the Jaycar AR1729 and
Altronics A1012 remotes don’t
specify which model(s) each code
covers. They just give a device type
(TV, VCR etc), manufacturer and
then a list of possible codes which
presumably cover the remote control
codes used for the most popular
models from that manufacturer.
The main criteria used to select
the codes was that they had to
be Philips RC5 codes which gave
the same button mapping on both
remotes. We ruled out the default
Philips TV code since we’ve used it
in a number of projects in the past
and we wanted to avoid conflicts.
For example, this project could be
vices are rated up to about 100A). But
the thickness of a conductor isn’t the
only variable – there are other factors.
First, they’re quite short, which
helps because for such a high-current
application you will generally heatsink
the TO-220 package and this also effectively heatsinks the leads (although
to a lesser extent). But there’s also the
issue of how much temperature rise
is tolerable. Normally cable diameter
is chosen based on a maximum temperature rise of something like 10°C.
Obviously it will take a lot more heat
than this to melt a wire so you can use
thinner cable if you are willing to accept the higher operating temperature
and attendant power losses.
Usually we don’t want to waste too
much power in a cable so we use the
thicker type at high current but TO-220
used with the Stereo DAC or UltraLD Mk.3 Amplifier, both of which
default to the standard Philips TV
code so there would be a conflict.
As you say, there were a number
of combined TV/VCR units. Many of
the VCR code combinations map the
volume control buttons to the same
brand of TV so that if you bought a
matching pair, you can control both
without having to switch between
multiple remote modes.
The mapping used is the standard
Philips VCR code, ie, the system
number is 5. This is assigned by
the standard to VCR #1 (see http://
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC-5). The
button mappings appear to be the
standard VCR code mapping except for volume up/down which
as you point out are TV codes plus
mute. The feature is called ‘punch
through’, where using a remote
control set for VCR (or DVD or satellite) will send the TV volume and
mute codes when these buttons are
pressed. So the volume and mute
will operate the TV, while the transport codes for the VCR will operate
the VCR.
Given that two different universal
remotes had this particular mapping, we assumed that it would be
relatively common. When Jaycar
discontinued the AR-1726, we tested
another universal remote that they
now sell (AR-1723) and found that it
worked with this project using code
0860, giving the same codes.
device leads are short enough that it
doesn’t really matter. Note that they
usually flare out near the body and
ideally they are soldered so that this
flared section is as close to the solder
joint as possible.
Also, the current limit for the package is normally set by the much thinner
internal bond wires which connect
the leads to the die anyway (except
the drain which is often connected
directly to the substrate). Those can
definitely fuse if you drive enough
current through the device.
Note that TO-220 package lead
resistance is enough of an issue in
high-current applications that SMD
FETs are generally preferred and offer a
lower RDS(on) figure. The leads in a TO220 package add something like 2mΩ
to the total resistance of the device
February 2014 101
Electronic Ignition System For Single-Cylinder Suzuki
I’m having a problem with the
electronic ignition kit that I have
assembled. I have now completed
building two kits, one from Jaycar
and one from Altronics. Both passed
the initial tests no problems, then
when trying to set the kits up to my
1997 Suzuki DR650 engine, both
have gone up in smoke.
I’m not sure where I’m going
wrong. Both kits have burnt out the
track on the PCB that goes from the
ground to one of the legs on transistor Q1.
The kits are set up for a reluctor input. The engine is a single-cylinder
but has two spark plugs running
off one coil (not sure if this is the
problem). The first kit is a mess as I
was playing around with it during
the testing stage and running it for
a long period through both spark
plugs. It appears to have burnt out
Q1 as well as the ground track.
The second kit, from Altronics,
appears just to have burnt out the
PCB track from the ground to the leg
that connects to Q1. I had 4.97V on
and there are now quite a few Mosfets
available with a total on-resistance of
less than this, so they have to be in a
different package.
Current doesn’t have much to do
with required lead spacing, other than
by limiting the area available for pads
and solder joints. Close lead spacing
as used in TO-220 does limit the maximum voltage though, to about 1000V
before breakdown can occur between
the leads.
The reverse polarity protection FET
doesn’t have to switch fast, hence a
100kΩ gate resistance is appropriate.
Normally, power supply polarity will
change every few seconds at worst.
For a Mosfet operating at 100kHz,
the gate resistance must be less than
about 100Ω or else this will slow
down charging/discharging of the
gate capacitance too much and cause
unacceptable switching losses and
switch-on/switch-off delays.
Depending on the drain current,
even 10Ω may affect the performance.
Think of the gate like a capacitor of
about 470pF-4.7nF (higher-current
FETs tend to have more capacitance).
This capacitor must be charged to say
102 Silicon Chip
the initial voltage test and VR1 was
almost fully anticlockwise for the
initial spark test. VR2 was turned
about 1/4 of a turn clockwise.
When testing the second unit,
wired up to the reluctor, I did have
spark across both spark plugs but
only for a very short time before
the track on the PCB smoked up.
No links were bridged at this time.
One thing that I’m not sure about is
that there are two wires going to the
coil. The instructions only seem to
mention a single wire which goes
from the ignition kit to the negative
on the coil.
I have connected the positive from
the battery to the other coil lead. Is
this correct? I’m not very savvy with
electronics, so I’m presuming I’ve
made a very fundamental error and
you should be able to set me straight!
(L. P., Geraldton, WA).
• The wiring of the ignition is probably correct although your ignition
coil could have a ballast resistor that
is connected in series with the coil
primary. The original coil wiring
10V to turn the Mosfet fully on and
discharged below about 3V to turn it
off. It isn’t exactly a capacitor but it’s
close enough to understand what’s
going on.
Temperature switch for
ceiling space fan
In order to reduce the heat entering
my upper floor bedrooms and hours of
use of an air-conditioner, I am going to
attempt to remove/reduce the hot captured air in the roof void. Whirly Birds
just don’t appear to move a sufficient
air volume. I propose to do this with
a 150mm diameter Manrose “Thru
Roof mounted fan” model FAN1060,
46 watts, 38dB, 320m3/hr.
The roof is Colourbond steel over
sisalation. There are R3.5 batts over
plasterboard ceilings, with ducted
air-conditioning. In summer, there is a
difference of nearly 20°C between the
roof void temperature and that in the
bedroom and it takes several hours for
this heat to dissipate in the evening.
The roof volume is about 200 cubic
metres, giving me about 1.5 changes
per hour. In addition to an overall
should be kept only with the coil
negative wiring changed to connect
to Q1. This is shown on the circuit
where the primary connects between
+12V (via a ballast resistor if it uses
one) and the collector of Q1.
It does seem possible that the
dwell setting is faulty, allowing high
coil current after saturation (full coil
charge).
Before connecting to the ignition
coil, check that the dwell trimpot is
working. Connect your multimeter
between TP GND and TP1 and check
that the voltage can be varied from
between 0V for full anticlockwise
rotation and 5V for full clockwise
rotation of VR1. Check also that pin
18 of IC1 varies in voltage as VR1 is
adjusted.
You do need to set VR1 so that the
spark is at its maximum but not too
much clockwise from this setting
so as to cause excessive coil current. The PCB track can be repaired
with a piece of tinned copper wire
between the emitter of Q1 and the
GND terminal on the PCB.
bedroom wall-mounted master mains
switch, when ‘on’ I would like an additional control in series as follows:
The control is a knob on a calibrated
scale, say 30-60°C. Selecting a knob
setting of say 40°C would switch on
the fan when the air in the top of the
roof void reaches 40°, then switch off
when back under 40°C. Actually some
hysteresis of say 3-4°C would prevent
the fan from cycling too often. I am assuming that outside air will leak into
the roof void via the eaves.
So what I need is, say, a thermistor
at fan level and below in the bedroom,
the master switch and a temperature
control knob. Has SILICON CHIP made
such a smart kit or something I could
modify or do you have a suggestion?
(D. K., via email).
• The temperature switch as published in the January 2007 issue can be
used as a fan control thermostat. You
could calibrate the set point control
for the 30-60°C range and even put
extra resistance in the top and bottom
leg of the set point control to optimise
the control range – say 100Ω in the
connection of VR1 to the 8V rail and
continued on page 103
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SOLAR PANELS LOW COST: full
range 5W to 250W, eg: 40W/12V Poly
$69, 130W/12V $169, 190W/24V $165,
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1kΩ in the VR1 connection to ground.
For 230VAC mains switching, you
would require a mains-rated relay (Jaycar SY4040) instead of the one on the
Temperature Switch. The circuit could
run from a 12V 500mA plugpack. The
hysteresis is adjustable. Jaycar sell this
as a kit, KC-5381 (www.jaycar.com.au)
siliconchip.com.au
MPPT charger needs
solar panel input
I recently completed the MPPT Solar Panel Charger for use with a small
camper van and all works fine. It is the
upgraded second version of the original in the February 2011 issue. How-
ever, the rest of the electrical system
needed an overhaul. A regulated mains
power supply is set to produce 13.3V
and this is permanently connected
to the battery in normal use. Clearly,
this system will never be able to fully
charge the battery and what’s more, it
continued on page 104
February 2014 103
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................. 70-73
Element14.................................... 25
Emona Instruments........................ 3
Front Panel Express....................... 6
Gless Audio................................ 103
Harbuch Electronics..................... 77
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
High Profile Communications..... 103
Icom Australia................................ 7
Jaycar .............................. IFC,49-56
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 103
has a small drain and consequently
the battery slowly discharges when
the van is not in use.
So it seemed reasonable to increase
the output of this power supply and
connect it in parallel with the solar
panel input (120W) to the MPPT, using
a MOSFET as a protection diode in the
power supply’s output. I guessed at
setting the supply output to 17V since
this is just below what the panel would
produce when charging via the MPPT.
It was not my intention to have both
power supply and panel charging simultaneously although it will depend
on the software as to whether this will
be OK. In fact, the input to the MPPT
from the panels is 15.8V during bulk
charging and this seems to charge the
battery more quickly than using the
power supply.
The results were interesting. Using
the power supply, the MPPT went
into bulk charging mode as expected
but the bulk charging LED flashed off
briefly about every four seconds. In
the description, it says that if the battery voltage is lower than 10.5V, the
MPPT will charge in bursts with the
LED flashing every four seconds before
bulk charging begins.
By this, I presume that the word
“flashing” means it is on briefly every
four seconds but in this case, it is off
briefly every four seconds. In fact,
the battery voltage was around 12V
so perhaps this is a coincidence. So
I have two questions. Is my arrangement to have the power supply charge
the battery via the MPPT reasonable?
What could be the reason for the brief
flash off every four seconds until bulk
charging ends?
104 Silicon Chip
Keith Rippon .............................. 103
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KitStop.......................................... 41
LD Electronics............................ 103
LED Sales.................................. 103
Low Energy Developments........ 103
Microchip Technology................... 17
Mikroelektronika......................... IBC
By the way, I particularly liked the
series on TV dongles. What a superb
and interesting set of articles. (D. W.,
via email).
• The MPPT charging assumes that
a solar panel is connected rather than
a power supply. If using a power supply instead of a solar panel, it would
be best to use a current-limited supply set for around 6.6A at 18V. That
is because the MPPT charging works
on the fact that the current will drop
as the solar panel is loaded. The solar
panel output follows the VI curve as
shown in the article – see Fig.1 in the
February 2011 issue.
The flashing of the LED during
bulk charging is indicating the way
the MPPT system works by periodically checking the panel to set up for
maximum power from the panel. The
LED indicates when this is happening.
12/24V switching for a
solar panel regulator
I write concerning the “12V/24V
Regulator for 70W Solar Panels” in
the September 2013 issue.
I have a query relating to the use of
links L1 & L2 for the 24V and 12V versions, respectively. Could these links
be replaced by a single DPDT switch
(eg, Jaycar’s ST-0575 or ST-0576 etc)
to enable me to switch between the
12V and 24V modes, depending on the
proposed usage at the time?
If so, what switch type etc, would
Ocean Controls.............................. 9
QualiEco Circuits Pty Ltd............. 59
Quest Electronics....................... 103
Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD............ 41
RF Modules................................ 104
Sesame Electronics................... 103
Silicon Chip Binders..................... 10
Silicon Chip Bookshop................. 97
Silicon Chip Online Shop........ 26-27
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 65
Television Replacements........... 103
Tenrod Pty Ltd.............................. 13
Trio Test & Measurement.............. 45
Wiltronics...................................... 81
Worldwide Elect. Components... 104
xLogic............................................. 6
you recommend? (P. M., Karabar,
NSW).
• That’s a good suggestion. Since the
switch effectively has to carry the full
output of the charger, it should have a
heavy current rating. Jaycar’s ST-0576,
a 10A DPDT switch with a centre-off
position, would be the better choice.
Mind you, the switch should not be
operated while a battery is connected,
otherwise the Mosfets might be damaged. In fact, disconnecting the battery
between uses and not using the centre
“Off” position on the switch would
SC
be prudent.
siliconchip.com.au
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