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Items relevant to "Courtesy LED Light Delay For Cars":
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Courtesy
LED Lights
Delay For Cars
Most modern cars have a courtesy light delay but older vehicles
do not. This new circuit is specifically designed to suit LED lamps
but will also work with conventional filament lamps. It keeps the
interior lights of your car lit for a preset time after you shut the car
doors. The lights will also turn off if the exterior lights or ignition
are switched on during the time-out period.
I
F YOU BUILD this courtesy light delay unit, you will be able to upgrade
your vehicle to LED interior lighting
(see SILICON CHIP, December 2013).
LEDs give much improved lighting
compared to the yellow of incandescent lamps and the bulb diffusers will
not discolour with age.
We previously published a Courtesy
Lights Delay unit in June 2004 and this
has proved surprisingly popular. And
while that project is still fine for 12V
filament bulbs, it won’t work with LED
lighting unless you have at least one
filament bulb connected; not the best
compromise.
Just why our previous Courtesy
Light Delay from 2004 doesn’t work
with LEDs can be understood by look-
Main Features
• Adjustable delay (1-133s)
• Works with both 12V LED lamps
and incandescent/halogen filament lamps
• Low standby current drain
• Works with positive and negative
door switch configurations
• Interior lamps go off when exterior
lights or ignition are switched on
34 Silicon Chip
ing at Fig.1 which shows the earlier
design concept. It’s based on a Mosfet
(Q1), two capacitors (C1 & C2) and a
1MΩ discharge resistor. When the door
switch is closed, the interior lamp(s)
light and the capacitors are discharged.
The instant the door switch opens, the
two capacitors charge via the filaments
in the interior lighting.
Due to the different values of the
two series-connected capacitors, the
47µF capacitor (C2) will charge to a
voltage that’s about 10 times higher
than the voltage across the 470µF
capacitor (C1). So with a 12V supply
and taking into account the 0.7V drop
across diode D1, the 47µF capacitor
will have about 10.2V across it and
the 470µF capacitor about 1.02V. The
10.2V across C2 becomes the gate voltage for the Mosfet which then drives
the lamps. After a short time, the gate
voltage discharges via the 1MΩ resistor
and the lamps go off.
As shown in Fig.1, a few refinements
were also included. These include
adding a short time delay to prevent
Mosfet Q1 from switching on instantly
when the door switch opens. This is
to allow time for capacitors C1 & C2
to charge sufficiently before the Mosfet switches on and shunts the door
switch. This delay is achieved using
transistor Q2, which is momentarily
switched on at power-up (ie, when
the door switch opens) due to base
drive through the 100nF capacitor and
10kΩ resistor.
When Q2 switches on, it momentarily shunts Q1’s gate to ground. This
prevents Q1 from conducting until the
100nF capacitor charges. The duration
is only 1ms and any tendency for the
lamp to briefly flicker off as the door
switch opens is virtually unnoticeable.
The full circuit published in June
2004 also included additional circuitry to switch off the Mosfet (and thus
turn the interior lamps off) if the tail
lights were activated (ie, if the parking
lights or headlights were switched on).
As stated, this circuit doesn’t work
with LED lighting. That’s because
the circuit relies on current flowing
through the lamp filaments, just after they are switched off, to charge
capacitors C1 & C2. Typically, a 5W
lamp filament will have a resistance
of about 29Ω when it is hot and so the
47µF capacitor takes much less than
1ms to charge. However, interior lighting often uses more than one lamp and
so the charging resistance is usually
much lower than 29Ω.
By contrast, typical 12V LED lamps
incorporate two or three white LEDs
siliconchip.com.au
+ DOOR
SWITCH
100nF
C1
470 µF
10k
D1
1N4004
A
100k
K
B
C2
47 µF
470Ω
1M
22k
D
Q1
G
S
C
Q2
E
– DOOR
SWITCH
By JOHN CLARKE
Fig.1: the basic design concept of our 2004 Courtesy Light Delay.
It relied on current flowing through the lamp filaments to charge
capacitors C1 & C2 immediately after the door switch opened.
Other Uses
This PCB module is not just confined
to vehicle use. Its circuit can also be
used for timed lighting, such as in
a hallway, provided you use 12V
LEDs run from a 12V DC supply. A
pushbutton momentary switch would
be used to switch the lights on and
they would then turn off automatically
at the end of the preset period.
This would also be ideal for a stairwell with one or several pushbutton
start switches (eg, one on each floor).
With a 12V supply, up to 36W (3A)
of lighting can be controlled and these
could be powered from a 3A 12V
power brick or similar (or use a 2A
plugpack for up to 24W of lighting).
Note that the pushbutton switch
needs to be rated for the total current
drawn by the LED lighting.
connected in series with a currentlimiting resistor. The voltage drop
across each LED is typically 3.5V for
a white LED and so the total voltage
drop is around 7V with two in series
or about 10.5V with three in series.
So there is not much left of the 12V
supply to charge the capacitors shown
in Fig.1.
When twin-LED lamps are used in
this circuit, the resulting gate voltage
will be around 2.9V when using a
standard diode for D1 and 3.13V when
using a Schottky diode. We do not get
the expected 3.8V because of the voltage drop across the current-limiting
resistor in the LED lamp.
Now 3.13V is too low to fully switch
on most Mosfets, including typical
logic level types that can conduct (at
least partially) with a 3V gate-to-source
siliconchip.com.au
+12V
+12V
+
+
DOOR
SWITCH
–
λ
LAMP
+
LED
LAMP
λ
+
LAMP
–
DOOR
SWITCH
–
λ
LED
LAMP
λ
–
(a)
(b)
Fig.2: the door switch can either be on the chassis side of the interior
lamp (a) or on the +12V side (b). Both the June 2004 circuit and the
new circuit described here work with either configuration.
voltage but switch off below 2.5V. This
means that LED lamps will not be correctly switched on by the circuit of
Fig.1. Even if we substitute a Mosfet
with a very low on-threshold voltage,
it would be difficult to get a consistent
delay period due to the low capacitor
voltages compared to this threshold.
It’s unfortunate that this circuit
doesn’t work with LED lighting because it has several desirable features.
First, there’s no need to connect it
directly to the vehicle’s 12V supply;
you just connect across a door switch
(in a vehicle with incandescent interior lamps) and it works. In addition,
the circuit will operate regardless as
to whether the door switch is on the
negative side of the lamp (Fig.2a) or
the positive side (Fig.2b). Provided
it’s connected with the correct polarity across the door switch, the circuit
works in exactly the same manner
for both ‘high side’ and ‘low side’
switching.
So how do we design a circuit to operate with LEDs? In this case, we need
to connect our new circuit directly to
the 12V supply as well as to a door
switch. And if we want the interior
lamps to switch off when the parking
lights or ignition are turned on, then
these too need to be monitored by the
circuit.
LED version
Our new Courtesy LED Lights Delay
circuit is shown in Fig.3. Unlike the
June 2004 circuit, it also monitors the
ignition as well as the exterior lights.
Monitoring the parking lights or tail
lights is only useful for night-time
driving, since you are unlikely to use
the lights during the day. By monitoring the ignition line, the courtesy
lamps will immediately go out if the
car is started rather than having to wait
for the delay period to expire.
As with our previous circuit, the
Courtesy LED Lights Delay operates
with the door switch in either configuration (ie, high-side or low-side).
Again, it’s only necessary to wire the
circuit to a door switch with the correct polarity. It’s not necessary to know
how the door switch is connected in
the vehicle; you just have to identify
its positive and negative leads.
October 2014 35
C
E
1 µF
1 µF
1k
K
B
D5
Q3
BC337
C
E
A
7
2
GP5
GP0
Vss
8
IC1
PIC12F675
–I/P
COURTESY LED LIGHTS DELAY
CON1
7
LIGHTS
6
LIGHTS
–
BR1
W04
1k
IGNITION
20 1 4
~
~
B
10k
5
4
0V
SC
4
4.7k
2
1
+
E
C
Q2
BC337
A
5
6
OPTO1: 4N25
VR1
100k
TIME
OUT
100nF
30V
1W
λ
10k
1nF
6
4
AN1/GP1
MCLR/GP3
1
Vdd
GP4
GP2
5
3
100nF
+5V
10 µF
GND
K
ZD1
Fig.3: the circuit uses PIC microcontroller IC1 to set the delay period. It also monitors the door switches, exterior lights and ignition. When a door switch is
opened, IC1’s GP4 output drives Mosfet Q1 (and thus the lamps) via transformer T1 and bridge rectifier D1-D4 for the delay period, as set by VR1. If the ignition
or exterior lights are switched on, GP5 is pulled low (either by Q2 or OPTO1) and this immediately puts the micro to sleep and turns the interior lamps off.
S
D
G
IN
10k
OUT
GND
LM2936
D1
D3
9T
1k
100nF
T1
A
24T
K
K
A
D2
K
A
K
A
K
A
D4
1 µF
A
B
1M
G
K
BC 33 7
S
D
D
STP60NF06
Q1
STP60–
NF06
2
+~~–
W04
SWITCH –
SWITCH +
CON1
1
D5, D6: 1N4004
D1–D4: 1N4148
OUT
IN
REG1 LM2936-5.0
K
D6
A
+12V
3
100Ω
36 Silicon Chip
The other connections to the circuit
are to +12V, chassis (0V), ignition and
the switched supply for the vehicle’s
exterior lights. The lights connection
can be regarded as optional; in many
cases, it will be sufficient to simply
monitor the ignition line to automatically turn the interior lamps off before
the delay period has ended (ie, when
the car is started).
The lights input connects across the
parking lights or tail lights (but not the
stop lights) and can be connected with
either polarity.
If the courtesy lights use a low-side
switching arrangement, Mosfet Q1’s
source terminal will be connected to
ground via SWITCH-. But this won’t
be the case with high-side switching.
You might expect that this could be
solved by driving Q1 with an IR2125
(or similar) Mosfet driver which could
produce a suitable gate drive above the
Mosfet’s source voltage, whether that
rises to the 12V supply (for a high-side
connected Mosfet) or 0V (for a low-side
connected Mosfet).
However, in the high-side config
uration, this scheme relies on a lowimpedance source load such as a light
bulb to charge the boost capacitor during the Mosfet’s off-time. This capacitor is subsequently used to generate a
voltage above the 12V supply when the
Mosfet switches on, so that it remains
in conduction.
Once again, using LEDs for the load
will mean that the capacitor will only
charge to 12V minus the voltage drop
of the LEDs. Ultimately, we would still
be restricted to only a couple of volts
for the Mosfet gate supply, so it won’t
work for the same reasons outlined
earlier. Another problem is that the
IR2125’s quiescent current is rather
high, at up to 1.2mA.
To get around this problem, our
circuit is based on a PIC12F675-I/P
microcontroller (IC1) and this drives
Mosfet (Q1) via transformer T1. IC1
produces a 1MHz square-wave to drive
the transformer and it provides a timing function to switch off this signal
after a set period (the delay). This
delay period can be adjusted using
trimpot VR1.
In operation, microcontroller IC1
detects when a door switch is opened
to start the delay period. It also monitors when the ignition or lights are
switched on to cancel the delay period.
Because the circuit is always connected to the vehicle’s 12V battery,
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications
Delay period: adjustable from 1-133 seconds
Dim down period: 1s (can be extended by changing 1µF gate capacitor on Q1)
Quiescent current: 17µA maximum, 9µA typical, 7.6µA measured (sleep mode,
lamp off)
Current when running: 36mA plus LED lamp current
it’s vital that microcontroller IC1 has
a low quiescent supply current. As a
result, IC1 is normally in ‘sleep’ mode
and draws negligible current (up to
2µA maximum). In fact, most of the
quiescent current is drawn by 3-terminal regulator REG1, as described later.
IC1’s GP2 input indirectly monitors the door switch which is wired
across the Mosfet. As shown, Q1’s
drain connects to the positive side of
the switch, while its source connects
to the negative terminal.
GP2 is normally held high via an
internal pull-up resistor. When the
door switch is in the ground side (see
Fig.2a), a closed switch pulls GP2 low
via a 1kΩ resistor and diode D5. At
the same time, transistor Q3 will be
off since Q1’s source is at ground and
so Q3’s base is held at 0V.
Alternatively, if the door switch is
connected in the positive side of the
supply as in Fig.2b, a closed switch
drives Q3’s base via a 10kΩ resistor.
As a result, Q3 turns on and pulls GP2
low. In this case, diode D5 is reverse
biased as Q1’s drain is connected to
the positive supply.
So, for either connection of the door
switch, IC1’s GP2 input is high when
the switch is open and goes low when
the switch closes. IC1 is configured
to generate an interrupt on a positive
edge at input GP2 and when the door
switch subsequently opens again, this
interrupt wakes IC1 from its sleep
mode. The microcontroller’s firmware
then starts an internal oscillator and
this produces a 1MHz clock output at
pin 3. This then drives transformer T1
via a 100nF capacitor.
Diodes D1-D4 rectify the voltage
from T1’s secondary and the resulting DC is filtered by a 1µF capacitor.
This in turn switches on Mosfet Q1 to
drive the interior lights, just as if a door
switch was closed. Note that D1-D4 are
1N4148s since a standard bridge rectifier would not work at 1MHz.
The end result is that Q1’s gate is
charged sufficiently above its source
to ensure it switches on, regardless of
siliconchip.com.au
whether the source voltage is actually
0V or 12V. This configuration is known
as a ‘floating gate supply’.
At the same time as Q1 is switched
on, IC1’s GP0 output is taken low (to
0V) and this connects a 5V supply
across trimpot VR1 (100kΩ). The setting at VR1’s wiper is then read via
IC1’s AN1 input. The GP0 output is
then taken high to stop the current
flowing through VR1 and this is done
to minimise the current drain, particularly during sleep mode.
IC1 goes to sleep again at the end of
the time-out period, as set by VR1. This
stops the 1MHz drive to transformer
T1 and Mosfet Q1 then quickly dims
the interior lights over a nominal one
second period as its 1µF gate capacitor
discharges via a parallel 1MΩ resistor.
Basically, the Mosfet’s internal impedances rises in response to decreasing
gate voltage, thereby dimming the
lights until they are ultimately completely off.
Interrupting the delay
IC1 monitors the ignition and taillights circuits via its GP5 input at
pin 2. If either the ignition or lights
are switched on during the time-out
period, the PIC immediately goes to
sleep and the interior lights go out.
In greater detail, GP5 is normally
held high via an internal pull-up resistor. If the ignition is switched on (eg,
when the car is started), it drives the
base of Q2 via a 10kΩ resistor. Q2 thus
turns on and pulls GP5 (pin 2) of IC1
low to put the micro to sleep.
Alternatively, if the external lights
are switched on, the resulting 12V DC
supply is fed through bridge rectifier
BR1 and drives the LED in optocoupler
OPTO1. This in turn switches on
OPTO1’s output transistor, again pulling GP5 (pin 2) of IC1 low and putting
the micro to sleep.
BR1 and optocoupler OPTO1 ensure that the lights circuit will work
regardless of how they are switched in
the vehicle. It doesn’t matter whether
the lights are ground connected and
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, code
05109141, 71 x 47mm
1 UB5 jiffy box, 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 panel-mount cable gland for
6.5mm diameter cable
1 ferrite toroid ring core, L8 material,
18mm OD, 10mm ID, 6mm high
(Jaycar LO-1230)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 3-way PCB-mount screw terminal
block (5.08mm spacing) (CON1)
2 2-way PCB-mount screw terminal
blocks (5.08mm spacing) (CON1)
1 M3 x 6mm tapped Nylon spacer
1 M3 x 12mm machine screw
1 M3 nut
2 100mm cable ties
1 700mm length of 0.8mm enamelled
copper wire
1 100kΩ miniature horizontal trimpot
(VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F675-I/P microcontroller
programmed with 0510914A.hex
(IC1)
1 4N25 or 4N28 optocoupler
(OPTO1)
1 LM2936-5.0 low dropout 5V regulator (REG1)
1 STP60NF06 60V N-channel Mosfet or similar (Q1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors (Q2,Q3)
1 W04 400V 1.2A bridge rectifier
(BR1)
4 1N4148 diodes (D1-D4)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D5,D6)
1 30V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16V electrolytic
1 1µF 16V electrolytic
2 1µF monolithic multi-layer ceramic
3 100nF MKT (code 100n or 104)
1 1nF MKT (code 1n or 102)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
3 1kΩ
2 10kΩ
1 100Ω
1 4.7kΩ
Miscellaneous
Automotive wire, crimp connectors,
quick splice connectors
switched to positive or connected to
positive and switched to ground.
Power supply
Power for the PIC microcontroller is
derived from the vehicle’s 12V supply
October 2014 37
D5
4148
4148
4004
1nF
100nF
IC1
PIC12F675
9T
100nF
1k
1k
Q2
10k
100k
T1
24T
BC337
VR1
~
BC337
BR1
1 µF
Q3
C 2014
30V
4004
ZD1
~
–
~
–
4N28
4.7k
W04
OPTO1
1
+
TIMEOUT
4148
4148
10k
1k
100Ω
D6
~
LIGHTS
LIGHTS
100nF
REG1
14190150
IGN.
IGNITION
Q1
10k
0V
+
-ST H GIL N GI V 0 V 2 1 + H CTI WS
+12V
1 µF
+
SWITCH +12V 0V
SWITCH –
10 µF D3 D1 D2 D4 1 µF
1M
+
SWITCH +
CON1
Fig.4: follow this diagram and the photo at left to build the Courtesy LED Lights
Delay. The connection to the exterior lights circuit is optional.
LEADS BENT
DOWN BY 90°
M3 NUT
Q1
M3 x 6mm
NYLON
SPACER
M3 x 15mm SCREW
PCB
Fig.5: Mosfet Q1 is mounted horizontally, with its tab secured to an
M3 x 6mm Nylon spacer.
Be sure to feed the M3 x 15mm screw
that secures Q1’s tab to the spacer up
through the bottom of the PCB.
via an LM2936 5V automotive regulator (REG1). This regulator can handle a
reversed supply input and has voltage
transient clamping. Diode D6, zener
diode ZD1 and the 100Ω resistor are
included to add extra protection. The
overall quiescent current of the circuit
is very low at around 9µA typical and
is mainly due to the minimum current
drawn by REG1.
Software
Not much is required in the way of
software for IC1. As stated, it includes
a rising edge interrupt handler that
wakes the PIC from sleep whenever a
door switch is opened from its closed
position. The PIC’s internal oscillator is
then automatically started and it generates the 1MHz clock signal at pin 3.
The delay counter is set from 1-133s,
depending on the 8-bit ADC reading
from AN1 and this period is timed using the overflow period of the internal
16-bit timer (timer 1), which occurs
every 524ms.
When the delay counter reaches
zero, the PIC is placed back into sleep
mode so that it draws minimal power
and the 1MHz clock signal ceases.
During the delay period, the GP5 input
is monitored and if this goes low, the
processor is immediately placed in
sleep mode and the LED lights quickly
dim to off.
make sure that the diodes and zener
diode go in with the correct polarity.
The zener diode is a 30V type and will
probably be marked as a 1N4751.
OPTO1, the 4N25 optocoupler, is
installed next, along with an 8-pin
DIL socket for IC1. Be sure to orientate
these parts as shown on the overlay
(ie, pin 1 at top left). Transistors Q2 &
Q3, regulator REG1 and bridge rectifier BR1 can now go in. Check that the
LM2950-5.0 device goes in the REG1
position and check that BR1 is correctly orientated and sits flush against
the PCB before soldering its leads.
The capacitors are next on the list.
Watch the orientation of the electrolytics and make sure that their tops are
no more than 12.5mm above the PCB,
otherwise they will later foul the lid of
the case. The parts list shows the codes
used for the 100nF and 1nF capacitors.
Connector CON1 is made up using
one 3-way and two 2-way screw terminal blocks. These should be dovetailed
together to form a 7-way block which
is then mounted on the PCB with the
wire entry holes facing towards the
adjacent edge. Make sure that this
7-way connector sits flush against the
PCB before soldering the pins.
Mosfet Q1 is mounted horizontally
on the PCB with its metal tab secured
to an M3 x 6mm Nylon spacer. To do
this, first bend the Mosfet’s leads down
through 90° about 1mm from its body,
Construction
The Courtesy LED Lights Delay is
built on a double-sided PCB coded
05109141 and measuring 71 x 47mm.
This clips neatly into the side channels of a UB5 plastic case and there is
sufficient room to install a cable gland
at the terminal block end.
Fig.4 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Install the resistors first, followed
by diodes D1-D6 and zener diode ZD1.
Check each resistor with a multimeter
before soldering it in position and
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
2
1
3
1
38 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
1kΩ
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown black red brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
then fit the Mosfet in position and slide
the Nylon spacer into position under
its tab. The assembly is then secured
to the PCB using a M3 x 12mm screw
and nut – see Fig.5.
Note that this screw must be inserted from the underside of the PCB,
so that the nut goes on top of Q1’s tab.
That’s because the screw head is small
enough not to foul adjacent PCB tracks,
whereas the larger nut would run the
risk of shorting out an adjacent 1µF
capacitor. Do the screw up firmly to
secure the assembly, then solder the
Mosfet’s leads to the PCB.
Winding T1
The PCB assembly can now be
completed by winding and installing transformer T1. This transformer
consists of two windings on a ferrite
ring core, as shown in Fig.4. The first
winding consists of nine turns of the
0.8mm enamelled copper wire, while
the second consists of 24 turns of
0.8mm enamelled copper wire. They
are wound on opposite sections of the
core and it doesn’t matter in which
direction they are wound.
Once the windings are in place,
position the toroid on the PCB. The
9-turn winding goes through pads at
the lower righthand side of the PCB,
while the 24-turn winding goes to a pad
just to the right of Q3 and to a pad at
top right. Push the toroid all the way
down onto the PCB, the secure it in
position using a couple of cable ties.
These pass through the centre hole of
the toroid and through adjacent holes
on either side.
Note that the enamel coating will
need to be scraped off the wires before
soldering them to the PCB.
Testing
Before installing the PIC micro, connect a 12V supply to CON1 and check
that there is about 5V (4.85-5.15V)
between pins 1 and 4 of IC1’s socket.
If this voltage is correct, disconnect the
power and install IC1 with its pin 1 to
the top left. If the voltage is incorrect,
check the orientation of D6, the value
of the series 100Ω resistor and that
REG1 is an LM2936-5.0.
If you have a spare 12V LED lamp,
this can be used to test the circuit
before installing it in the vehicle. Do
not use a white LED on its own. It
must be a LED lamp with a limiting
resistor to keep the current to a safe
level for the LEDs.
siliconchip.com.au
Assuming you have a spare LED
lamp, connect it between the switch
minus terminal (pin 2 of CON1) and 0V
(pin 4 of CON1). Note that the polarity is important here – the anode or
positive side of the LED lamp must go
to the switch minus terminal.
Now reapply power – the LED lamp
should light for a second or so, then
quickly dim to off. If that checks out,
momentarily bridge the switch terminals on CON1 (pins 1 & 2). The LED
lamp should now light for the length of
time set by trimpot VR1 (note: timing
begins when the door switch opens;
ie, when the door is closed).
Assuming it works as expected, VR1
can now be adjusted to set the required
delay. This ranges from 1-133s but
note that the circuit’s response to the
trimpot setting is non-linear. The fully
anticlockwise to mid-position setting
has the range of 1-33s, while the next
half of the travel is divided into two
equal sections. The first section has a
range from 33-66s, while the remaining clockwise section sets the delay
from 66-133s.
Having set the delay period, you
can test that the ignition input works.
That’s done by first triggering the delay
period, then connecting the ignition
input (pin 5 of CON1) to +12V using a wire link. When you do this,
the lamp should extinguish after one
second or so.
Note that you will need to set a reasonably long delay time for this test,
to give yourself time to connect the
ignition input to the +12V terminal.
Similarly, you can check that the
lights inputs work by triggering the
delay and connecting either pin 6 or
pin 7 of CON1 to +12V and the other
pin to ground. Again, the LED lamp
should turn off after a second or so.
If you wish, you can increase this
1s dim-down period by increasing the
1µF electrolytic capacitor value at the
Q1 gate. It will be around 10s with a
10µF capacitor. Note that this dimming
period is additional to the time-out
or delay period. So if the time-out is
set at 15s, the overall LED ‘on-period’
will be 15s plus the dimming period.
For 1s dimming, the total time-out
will be 16s.
Final assembly
If it all works as expected, drill a
12.5mm hole in the end of the UB5 box
for the cable gland. This hole should be
positioned 13mm down from the top
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PCBs & special components available from PartShop
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FOR A
PCB?
PCBs for most recent (>2010)
SILICON CHIP projects are
available from the
SILICON CHIP PartShop
– see the PartShop pages
in this issue or log onto
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You’ll also find some of
the hard-to-get components
to build your SILICON CHIP
project, back issues,
software, panels, binders,
books, DVDs and much more!
Please note: the SILICON CHIP PartShop
does not sell kits; for these, please
refer to kit supplier’s adverts in this issue.
October 2014 39
This is the view inside the completed Courtesy LED Light Delay. It’s best to
make the external wiring connections to CON1 with the PCB out of the case.
The wires are then pushed back out through the cable clamp as the PCB is
clipped into position.
of the box and centred horizontally.
Drill a small pilot hole to begin with,
then carefully enlarge it to size using
a tapered reamer and mount the cable
gland in position.
The assembled PCB is now simply
clipped into the UB5 box with CON1
adjacent to the cable gland. This gland
clamps the external wiring cable to
prevent the connecting wires from
being pulled out of CON1.
Installation
To connect the unit, you will need to
access one of the door switches, +12V
power, the ignition line and either the
tail light or parking light connections.
Alternatively, you may wish to just use
the ignition input and not bother with
the lights input.
Note that some door switches will
have two wires while others have only
a single wire connection. In the latter
case, one contact is connected directly
to chassis at the switch mounting
position.
It’s important to get the door switch
connections to the unit the right way
around. The positive door switch connection must go to the switch positive
of the Courtesy LED Light Delay. You
can quickly determine which is the
positive door switch connection by
using a multimeter to measure the
voltage across the door switch when
it is pushed open.
Note that if there’s only a single
wire running to the switch, this will
be the positive (assuming the chassis
connection is negative).
40 Silicon Chip
For the +12V supply rail, you will
need to find a source of +12V that remains on when the ignition is off. This
+12V supply rail must be protected by
a fuse in the vehicle’s fusebox and is
best derived at the fusebox itself. The
0V lead can be run to an eyelet connector that’s screwed to the chassis.
The lights terminals on the Courtesy
LED Lights Delay are connected across
one of the tail lights or parking lights.
You can access this wiring either directly at the lights socket wiring, at
the lights switch or in the fusebox. It
doesn’t matter which way around you
connect them, since the bridge rectifier
automatically caters for both polarities.
Once you have found the relevant
wiring points, it’s a good idea to disconnect the vehicle’s battery before
running the wiring, to guard against
any inadvertent short circuits. Note
that all wiring should be run using
proper automotive cable and connectors.
Once the wiring is complete, reconnect the battery and check that the
courtesy lights remain on after the door
is closed. Now turn the ignition (or the
exterior lights) on and the courtesy
lights should quickly dim to off (over
1s or so).
Finally, the unit can be mounted
in any convenient location under the
dashboard. It’s up to you how you secure it, since a suitable position will
vary from vehicle to vehicle.
Existing delay circuit
What if your vehicle already has a
courtesy lights delay? This may work
fine if you substitute LED interior
lamps for your car’s original incandescent lamps but there’s always a
possibility that it may not. In that case,
you may wish to use the SILICON CHIP
Courtesy LED Lights Delay instead.
One problem here is that the door
switches will probably be connected
to the existing delay circuit rather than
directly to the interior lamps. Bypassing this delay circuit will therefore
involve disconnecting all the door
switches and wiring them directly to
the interior lamps instead.
That’s too complicated (and time
consuming) to be practical in most
cases but there is a way around this
– keep the original delay circuit and
simply add the SILICON CHIP Courtesy
LED Lights Delay unit to the existing
installation. That’s done by connecting
the SILICON CHIP delay unit in parallel
with the existing unit across one of the
door switches.
There’s just one wrinkle to watch
out for here – the original delay circuit
may pull one side of the door switch
to +5V rather than +12V. This should
be checked using a multimeter and if it
does go to +5V, the 1kΩ pull-down resistor connected to Q3’s base will have
to be increased to 10kΩ (otherwise the
transistor won’t turn on).
Note that, depending on the circuit
used, the original delay period may
be added to the delay introduced by
the SILICON CHIP unit. That won’t be
a problem, however, since the Courtesy LED Lights Delay period can be
adjusted down to as low as 1s.
Note also that connecting the Courtesy LED Lights Delay in parallel with
an existing delay circuit may not work
in all cases. It will very much depend
on the vehicle and the circuit used.
Troubleshooting
If the courtesy lights are always on,
the door switch terminals have probably been connected to CON1 (at pins
1 & 2) with reverse polarity. If that
happens, the courtesy lights turn on
via the intrinsic reverse diode inside
Mosfet Q1 and simply swapping the
leads to the door switch will fix the
problem.
Finally, if the interior lights switch
off immediately after the door is closed
(and the connections are correct), check
that there is no voltage applied to either
the lights terminals or the ignition terSC
minal on CON1 (pin 5, 6 & 7).
siliconchip.com.au
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