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Vintage Radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
The 1955 Fleetwood
4-Valve Model 1003
The Fleetwood logo
depicts a sailing
ship at the top and
an oak tree in the
bottom half to reflect
the town’s maritime
past.
Philips in Australia
The Fleetwood Model 1003 is a 4-valve set
that was manufactured at Philips’ Hendon
plant in South Australia during the 1950s.
It’s a relatively simple design based on 9-pin
valves and has quite good performance.
F
LEETWOOD is a coastal town
in Lancashire, England, north of
Blackpool and like Blackpool is also
a resort town. And unusually for England, Fleetwood is a planned town that
was laid out in 1835.
The town’s largest and most prominent single employer is currently the
manufacturer of the menthol lozenge
“Fisherman’s Friend”. In more prosperous days though, the Mullard
com
pany, a wholly owned subsidi98 Silicon Chip
ary of Philips since 1928, operated
an electronics factory there before it
closed in 1979.
The Fleetwood logo used on many
Mullard radios, including the set described here, included a sailing ship.
That’s because deep sea fishing and
cargo shipping were once the main
activities of the town. The oak tree
dominating the bottom half of the logo
was included because oak was used to
build sailing ships.
The Adelaide suburb of Hendon
originally hosted an airfield but this
had become vacant by the start of
World War 2. Soon after the outbreak
of war, a large munitions factory was
built there and produced around three
million .303 bullets a week (the author’s mother was employed there during that time). Philips subsequently
took over the buildings in 1947 and
continued radio and electronics production there until 1980. At its peak
in the late 1950s, some 3500 people
worked for Philips at Hendon.
During the 1940s and 1950s, Philips
radios were also badged as “Mullard”
or “Fleetwood”. There were some
minor cosmetic differences between
them though. For example, the circuit
diagrams of the Philips Model 164
and the Fleetwood Model 1003 both
appear in the 1955 Australian Official
Radio Service Manual (AORSM) and
are identical (these stablemates would
have been made at the Hendon factory). However, apart from its logo,
the Fleetwood Model 1003 is easily
distinguished from the electricallyidentical Philips Model 164 because it
uses a cloth speaker grille rather than
a metal mesh.
That aside, these two sets really are
twins. Both have “4 VALVE” stamped
into the fibre of their wrap-around
backing panels and they have the same
information on the labels (although
the Philips’ label is red while the
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Fig.1: the Fleetwood Model 1003 is a conventional 4-valve superhet design. V1 (6AN7) is the converter stage, V2 (6N8)
the IF detector/amplifier stage, V3 (6M5) the audio output stage and V4 (6V4) is the rectifier.
Fleetwood’s is green). Rather strangely,
the cabinet could either be a walnutcoloured Bakelite type (as for the
Model 164 shown here) or a thermomoulded plastic type for colours
such as the cream Fleetwood. In fact,
this would have been one of the last
Bakelite cabinets used because they
were more expensive to produce and
it was more fashionable to use bright
colours during the 1950s to match the
kitchens of the day.
Circuit details
The Fleetwood 1003 incorporated
a number of the advances that were
made during the 1950s, including
the use of “modern” 9-pin valves to
optimise various circuit functions.
The result is a 4-valve radio that’s a
solid performer in reasonable signal
strength areas. Alternatively, a buyer
in 1955 could have paid slightly more
to acquire the Philips 5-valve Model
165 in the same moulded case.
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of the
Fleetwood Model 1003. It’s a conventional superhet design with V1 (6AN7)
operating as the converter, V2 (6N8)
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as an IF detector/amplifier stage, V3
(6M5) as the audio output stage and
V4 (6V4) as the rectifier.
Unlike the Fleetwood set, the Philips
5-valve model 165 uses two valves to
achieve IF amplification, detection and
AGC – see Fig.2. In this circuit, V2 is
a 6BH5, while V3 is a 6BD7 which
subsequently drives a Philips Miniwatt
6M5 output pentode. By contrast, in
the Fleetwood circuit (Fig.1), a single
6N8 (V2) performs IF amplification,
detection and AGC.
Either way, it makes no difference
to the performance. The author has a
Model 165 to compare with the Fleetwood and finds it impossible to distinguish between them on listening tests.
The 9-pin 6M5 power pentode (V3
in the Fleetwood) has a gain of 22 in
typical use and this is adequate to
avoid the need for extra preamplification after the IF stage. In fact, R6 is
a 400kΩ series resistor that’s actually
built into the 100kΩ volume pot (R7)
to reduce the signal that’s fed from the
6N8 to the 6M5 audio output valve.
The 6M5 can easily deliver 3W of
audio, which is more than enough to
drive the 5-inch (125mm) Rola model
C speaker used in the Fleetwood into
overload.
The 6M5 valve was common in
many radios of the 1950s and 1060s,
by the way.
Restoration
One of the first things I noticed
Fig.2: unlike the Fleetwood set, the
Philips 165 uses two valves for IF
amplification, detection and AGC.
August 2015 99
In addition to its distinctive logo, the Fleetwood Model 1003 (left) is easily distinguished from the electrically-identical
Philips Model 164 (right) because it uses a cloth speaker grille rather than a metal mesh grille.
Fig.3 (above): this chart lists the valves used in the Fleetwood 1003 and their
screen and plate operating voltages.
goo appeared to be acidic and had
created a copper salt wherever it had
affected the finish.
The solution to this cosmetic
problem was to remove all the parts
from the case (as described later) and
thoroughly clean it and the grille with
degreaser. The black dial background
and the cream sections of the cabinet
were then covered with masking tape
and paper, after which the exposed
facia and grille fabric were sprayed
with gold paint.
Although it is not an intuitive thing
to do, speaker grille fabric takes paint
well and in this case, the result was
quite good. The cream feature-strip at
the front of the case was then restored
by sanding off the new gold coating
with fine-grit sandpaper.
Beginner’s trap
The Philips Model 164 and Fleetwood Model 1003 are virtually identical. Even
the labels on the back are the same, except that one is red and the other is green.
when I acquired my Fleetwood 1003
was that green corrosion spots were
apparent in the gold finish of the facia.
This suggests that the gold finish was
formulated in part with copper.
100 Silicon Chip
In addition, the speaker cloth on
the Fleetwood had been badly stained
down the lefthand side by a greenblack goo that had also dribbled onto
the gold trim and the tuning dial. This
By the way, there’s a beginner’s trap
built into all the Philips clones that use
this cabinet. Indeed, I have been guilty
of breaking a perfectly good dial cord
on one of these sets.
To the uninitiated, it seems that all
that needs to be done to remove the
chassis is remove the knobs and then
slide the chassis out. However, Philips
didn’t make it that simple. They can
be annoying in their engineering
designs and they get my vote for the
manufacturer who most consistently
made disassembly difficult.
In these sets, the dial pointer is awkwardly poked up from under the back
plate behind the dial assembly and if
you simply tug on the chassis, the dial
cord breaks. The correct procedure is
to first remove the plastic calibrated
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The Fleetwood’s parts are mounted on a metal chassis
and are readily accessible. The gold-coloured figure-8
power cord (at left) was replaced with a 3-core mains
cord which was correctly secured with a cable clamp.
dial panel at the front (two screws)
and then guide the dial pointer under
the backplate that is part of the cabinet
moulding as the chassis is withdrawn.
In my radio, the dial had already
been restrung but with ordinary string
rather than dial cord. This suggests
that someone else had previously
fallen into that beginner’s trap. Despite
using ordinary string, the restrung dial
worked quite well, so I left it as it was.
Another aspect of this radio is that
the Rola 5C speaker is tightly clamped
into a circular groove in the back of the
case moulding. This makes an effective
baffle for the speaker but means that
the speaker’s wires must be desoldered
to remove the chassis.
Chassis work
My Fleetwood 1003 radio was received in working order and all the
parts under the chassis appeared to
be in good condition. That meant that
there was little to do other than tidy
up the rather messy layout. Indeed,
one essential chore was to replace the
rather stylish gold figure-8 2-core flex
with a 3-core mains power cord and to
properly secure this with cable clamps.
The speaker transformer at the bottom was still lustrously metallic and
clearly stamped Plessey-21– 5000/3.5
(the latter numbers designating the input and output impedances in ohms).
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The chassis can be slid out of its plastic cabinet after the knobs have been
removed but you also have to be sure to remove the dial panel and guide
the dial pointer under the dial backplate as you do so. This view shows the
chassis after restoration.
As an aside, Plessey took over Rola,
based at Richmond in Melbourne, in
the mid-1960s.
The top of the chassis carried the
classic “miniature” Philips IF transformers of the era. It also featured the
characteristic Philips compact tuning
condenser with brass plates that was
carried over to early Philips transistor
radios.
One problem was that a large amount
of dust had covered the valves and
August 2015 101
other parts on the top of the chassis –
this despite the back of the set being
protected by a punched fibre-board
cover. This dust and any associated
grime were removed by brushing the
parts with mineral turpentine and then
air-blowing the chassis dry.
ARTS&P label
Prior to this clean-up, a small fragment of the ARTS&P label had been
evident on the chassis to the left of
the power cord grommet. I sometimes
replace a missing or damaged ARTS&P
label with a reproduction but in this
case it wouldn’t be seen with the
backplate installed, so it was omitted.
Pitted dial plastic
This rear view shows the Fleetwood 1003 fitted with its punched fibre-board
cover. The two leads at lower left are for the antenna and earth connections.
Fig.4: the dial-cord stringing arrangement
in the Fleetwood Model 1003. It’s all too
easy to break the dial-cord if the chassis
isn’t removed correctly (see text).
One blemish that couldn’t be repaired was the pitted area of the dial
plastic where the corrosive goo had
etched into it. Even a deep polish using
old Brasso failed to go deep enough
to remove this pitting. Old Brasso, by
the way, is formulated with kaolin and
quartz instead of silica for the abrasives and the suspension compounds
do no harm to most plastics. On the
contrary; those fine abrasives restore
most plastic surfaces to spectacular
clarity.
Unfortunately, the Brasso formula
changed in 2008 to comply with US
volatile organic compounds laws and
the new formulation cannot be used on
some plastics. I am now down to my
last few millilitres of the old Brasso, so
I will have to find a suitable substitute.
Finally, the Fleetwood’s cream
cabinet would easily blend with any
decor and the radio is relatively small,
with a width of just 280mm. The set
is perfectly functional and its appearance respectable enough to be placed
SC
in any modern kitchen.
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