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. . . continued from page 102
You could also try adding RFI suppression on the stator lead. There are
clamp-on suppression ferrite sleeves
(eg, Jaycar Cat LF-1294) that may work
or try adding an earthed metal shield
around the ignition module. Otherwise
a high-frequency inductor in line with
the lead may solve the problem, eg,
Jaycar LF-1400, along with a capacitor
on the module side to ground. A 100nF
630V ceramic should be suitable.
Fix for relay chatter
in Tempmaster
I built your temperature controller
to make home brew less hit and miss
in the brewing stage. It controls a small
siliconchip.com.au
fridge and is set to 21°C and I have had
a case of relay chatter which was a bit
disconcerting.
I read during the year that someone
else had the same problem which you
cured but the writer did not elaborate
on the fix. Help please as with summer
coming on I do not need a bad brew.
(P. G., via email).
• We are not sure which project you
are referring to. It doesn’t appear to
be Precision Temperature Logger and
Controller from the January & February
2010 issues or the High Temperature
Thermometer/Thermostat from the
May 2012 issue.
We think you might be referring to
the Tempmaster, the latest iteration of
which was in the August 2014 issue.
The previous version was in February
2009. The latest version is a different
circuit and it does appear to have com-
pletely solved relay chatter problems.
You can see a 2-page preview of
the article at siliconchip.com.au/
Issue/2014/August/The+Tempmaster
+Thermostat+Mk.3
Ceramic jug
element switching
I have a question about the MEN
system that has been discussed in the
magazine lately. Back in the 1950s,
1960s and 1970s, everyone had a china
electric jug. I remember way back when
I was a kid in the 1950s, I first noticed
that in everyone’s kitchen, the power
point Active pin was always brown
and in some cases even black, with
bits crumbling away.
I figured back then it had to be something to do with the jug. They had a
continued page 104
January 2015 103
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