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Would you like to keep your home or
business under 24/7
surveillance . . .
from wherever
you are (anywhere
in the world!)?
Choosing, setting
up and using
IP Security Cameras
Wireless (IP) surveillance cameras, which operate over the internet, are
incredibly common, come in a wide range of prices and are relatively
simple to install and operate. With a ’net or mobile phone connection,
you can see what’s going on in your home or backyard – wherever you
are – and even get a warning if the camera spots an intruder!
M
any computer users, even those with a lot of
experience, don’t have any idea on where to start
with these versatile devices.
They remember the bad old days, where installing a home
security system was indeed a lot of hassle (particularly the
wiring-in phase) and even when operating, often resulted
in false alarms and more neighbourhood angst.
The days of running wires are so passé, with wireless
systems now in vogue – but how many times have you
heard an alarm sounding and thought “there’s someone’s
alarm going off . . .” – but done nothing about it?
Many alarm systems don’t even scare off intruders for
that very reason: everyone will think it’s a false alarm!
Enter camera security
(often temporarily) “in the cloud”, which will be overwritten if not required after, say, a week or so.
Some are always on while others are triggered by
detecting movement. Others use traditional home security
triggering methods (beams, magnetic switches, pressure
sensors etc) or even a combination of types.
The usual laws of purchase normally apply – the more
you pay, the more features you’ll get. But that’s not always
the case – there are quite a few cameras out there that
are real bargains and offer quite exceptional features and
performance!
But as we said earlier, many people think that setting
such a system up has got to be (a) difficult, (b) expensive
or (c) requires a lot of computer know-how. This article
should help to dispel those three myths. Indeed, we hope
to show you it is as simple as a-b-c!
Now there’s a much better option – security or
surveillance cameras which operate via the internet so you
can keep an “eye” on your property 24 hours a day, 7 days Choosing a camera
There’s an enormous range of cameras (and prices)
a week, regardless of where you are.
Depending on the software driving them, many have the available out there. We’ve shown a few on the following pages.
Some of the things to look for are:
ability to detect and report intruders and just as importantly,
record video for later analysis.
(a) Resolution – full HD cameras usually
Some record locally, for example on a
By Ross Tester
cost more than standard definition. But if
micro-SD card in the camera; others store
siliconchip.com.au
March 2015 15
At left is the Jaycar QC3831 IP Camera,
mounted inside a weatherproof dome but
under the eaves for complete protection.
The power cable conveniently runs above
the eave. Top right is the view you get
through the camera, here displayed on
YAWCAM (see later in this feature).
At right is a similar image, using an
EasyN camera and the EasyN Android
app, accessed via the internet on a
Samsung smartphone. You can tilt and
pan the camera by swiping the smartphone screen from anywhere your phone
has ’net access – even across the globe!
you want to identify faces, you want HD. We’ve all seen
those awful, grainy old CCTV pictures on TV, where you
can almost work out that it is a person but there’s no hope
of identifying a face! With modern cameras (including much
improved lenses and optics), those days are thankfully
well gone.
run a power cable which might not be convenient (will the
cable reach from the power supply?)!
Some cameras, even wireless ones, offer PoE (power over
Ethernet) but this still requires a cable to be run.
We’ve also seen some solar-panel-powered models which
might solve some difficult installation problems.
(b) Protection – is the camera really designed for 24/7
outside use where it is exposed to the elements, or is it more
intended for either internal use or at worst, mounted in a
protected position outside (eg, under the eaves)?
It will normally have a high “IP” rating to tell you what
it suits. (See the panel “what does IP mean” elsewhere in
this article).
You’ll normally find exposed-use cameras cost quite a
bit more than inside or protected cameras.
(f) Operating system – Most cameras should have crossplatform support but there are exceptions. A few cameras
are designed to operate on Android and/or Apple only,
which is a problem if you only have Windows. Make sure
the camera you select operates with your PC (or is equipped
for all – fortunately, most are these days). In any case,
you should be able to find third-party software – Ispy, for
example – which should let a camera work with your PC.
(c) Night vision – Most (but definitely not all) cameras
these days are equipped with LEDs (usually infrared) to
give a picture at night. Some even claim they work down
to 0 lux – that’s complete darkness, not even starlight!
And so they might but at what range? And how good is
the night picture? Most will switch to B&W at night but
for some, the image suffers significantly as well. Will it be
good enough to identify an intruder?
(g) Features – This might seem self-explanatory but
you need to know what features it (or its software) offers,
such as whether the camera offers remote pan/tilt control,
movement detection and/or auto notification as mentioned
earlier. But there are other factors to consider – do your
own research.
(d) Audio – Is there an inbuilt microphone (or provision
for an external one) to also pick up voices or animal sounds?
It might be important.
(h) Colour or mono – Most security cameras these days
are colour, though the picture quality varies significantly.
However, there are still plenty of mono cameras around so
if you want colour, make sure it says so! Very few cameras
stay in colour mode under low light (or when illuminating
with their own LEDs).
(e) Ease of installation – We’re not just talking ease of
mounting (though that is important), we’re also thinking
about power supply. If it’s a wireless system, that only
means the data side is wireless – you usually still have to
(i) Price – We’ve left this until last. We’ve seen “wireless
cameras” advertised online for absolutely ridiculous prices
(eg, sub $5) but beware, these are usually fake cameras
which contain nothing inside the dome or housing (they’re
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
used to imply you have a camera – sort-of like the good
old days when you installed an empty alarm box and put
signs on the windows!).
There’s also another neat scam where you click on a
camera at a real bargain price, only to find you’re buying a
tiny part of it (eg, the antenna!). “Oh, you want the camera
as well? Click here” (another $50 or $100!).
You might find a bargain wireless camera which is
dependent on your also buying not-so-cheap “cloud storage”.
And also be careful of “wireless cameras” which on
closer examination aren’t – not IP wireless (WiFi), that is.
In fact, they aren’t even computer camers – they are oldstyle CCTV cameras, designed to feed into a video monitor
or recorder! (Some might use a wireless link to get back
to the monitor/recorder but will not be able to access the
internet; ie, they’re not “IP” cameras).
OK, what should you pay?
Depending on where you purchase, you can easily pay
several hundred dollars for a top-of-the-line, all-singing alldancing wireless IP security camera; however the majority
of cameras start at about $50 online – some even including
postage (from China, of course!).
In a bricks-and-mortar store, you can usually expect up
to double this for entry-level cameras. But buying over-thecounter from a store has several advantages – you can see
exactly what you’re getting, you (usually) have a moneyback or at least exchange guarantee. And more often than
not, there is someone in the store who is knowledgeable
about the devices and can give you some good advice and
guidance if you need it.
You certainly won’t get most of those advantages buying
online. So the choice is yours – save some money or save
some anxiety!
Remember too the value of the assets you are trying to
protect: is saving a few dollars worth risking many tens (or
even hundreds) of thousands of dollars?
Location, location, location
The first law of real estate also applies to security cameras:
where you set it/them up. Basically, it’s common sense,
Let’s look at a few necessaries:
(1) Unobstructed view
This goes for what the camera lens “sees” and the path
for the wireless signal.
You want a location which gives the best possible view.
Sometimes it’s necessary to compromise a little but if there
are obstacles in the field of vision, intruders could use these
to hide their approach.
Choose what you want to view carefully – external doors
and windows are obvious but what about the Rolls-Royce in
the garage? Hey, we’ve even heard of some people putting
in a wireless camera solely to keep an eye on their pets
while they’re at work!
If there is anything solid in the path between the camera
antenna and router, that could also be a problem for the
wireless path. This especially applies to both brick walls
and bushes/trees, which may not be too much of a problem
in dry weather but can form very effective wireless shields
when they are wet.
One way to check this is with a wireless network device
(eg, smartphone or tablet). If the signal suffers where you
siliconchip.com.au
Jaycar QC3834
This pan & tilt camera
is actually shown upsidedown – it would normally
be hanging on the bracket
supplied. 0 lux illumination
(up to 15m), 640 x 480
resolution and up to 50m
line-of-sight WiFi range.
Supports iPhone, iPad,
Android smartphone and
monitor. Currently reduced
from $119.00.
9900
$
Fixed Indoor Dome (Jaycar QC3831)
Totally housed within a
dome for protection;
complete with 22 I/R
LEDs for night viewing.
Fixed aim only (ie no
pan/tilt) even though it
looks as though it can!
640 x 480 resolution
<at> 30fps, 60° viewing
angle and has motion
detection and remote
warning. Access through a
web browser (requires IE)
or an iPhone/Android app.
7900
$
Outdoor Wired/Wireless (Jaycar QC3836)
Designed for outdoor use, complete with mounting bracket
(not shown). Quick and easy setup, 640 x 480 resolution.
Protective shroud shields camera and ring of IR LEDs for
night viewing. (0 lux, up to 20m). Supports DDNS, which
means you can access your camera through a fixed
domain even if your external IP address
constantly changes.
(NB – reduced
from $149,
stock limited in
some stores).
11900
$
TREK Ai-Ball (Jaycar QC3368)
Get it? Ai-Ball? At just 100g and 30mm diam.
x 35mm long, it’s the smallest wireless IP
camera we’ve ever seen – even small
enough to carry on your keychain!
VGA (640 x 480) quality, powered by
a single CR2 battery (or optional 5V
supply*) and operates on WiFi
(802.11b/g) via an internal antenna.
See much more info at
$
95
www.ai-ball.com
99
*Optional cradle
and stand with
5V power supply
also available:
QC3369 <at> $29.90
March 2015 17
EasyN 640 x 480 (Altronics S9012)
Full remote viewing capability (with
pan and tilt) over internet browser
or smartphone. The camera features
an embedded IR-Cut filter and an
integrated network video recording
system. Easy plug’n’play set up!
300,000 pixel sensor. As well as
security applications, makes a great
baby or pet monitor. 802.11b/g
wireless and will support four
viewers at one time.
Includes microphone for
audio monitoring and a power
supply.
want to put the camera, find another location.
(2) Out of reach of intruders or vandals!
You don’t want your camera to be put out of action
because it can be reached. Even if it sends an alarm when
tampered with (some do), a smashed or disconnected
camera could still mean you’ve lost vision (some high end
ones may well keep recording to their own memory card).
Also ensure there is nothing left around (a wheelie bin,
for example) which might assist as a climbing aid for some
cretin with a brick or a pair of cutters! (Put the bricks away,
too . . .)
89
$
95
EasyN Pan/Tilt (Altronics S9014)
A home surveillance IP camera
with remote pan and tilt control.
Easy plug-n-play setup allows
you to view remotely in just
minutes on most WiFi networks.
High quality 720P resolution and
H.264 compressed video. An
SD card slot is on board for
direct recording of footage.
Speaker output and mic
input available plus alarm
trigger I/O terminals. 355°
pan and 120° tilt.
Includes power supply.
175
$
IP65 Waterproof Aluminium (Altronics S9022)
With 1.0MP resolution (up to 1280
x 720), significantly higher than
most cameras, it uses H.264/MJPEG
compression to provide excellent
picture quality and minimal storage
requirements. IP65 rated for outside
use, infrared LEDs provide nighttime coverage up to 15m, and
it will pan 355° and tilt 90°.
Wireless suits 802.11b/g/n
systems. Has alarm notification,
FTP snapshot upload and event
recording to TF card, operates on
Microsoft Windows (XP, Vista, 7).
AVTECH ETS (Altronics S9800)
A top-of-the-line vandal-proof
day/night IP camera with
infrared illumination (zero lux,
up to 30m or 50m in enhanced
mode). Can be used in wide-angle
or telephoto modes. With a massive
2.0MP resolution, you’ll not only
recognise faces but count the freckles!
Note: not a wireless camera (connects
to a standard RJ45 ethernet connection
with PoE [power over ethernet]) and supports
multiple streams up to 10 clients. Yes, it is
more expensive than most . . . but if you want
the best . . .
18 Silicon Chip
235
$
(3) Unobtrusive
If at all possible (and it often isn’t), try not to advertise
the fact that you have a camera (unless you really do want
the neighbourhood to know, perhaps as a deterrent). Often,
it’s best that the first thing an intruder knows about your
system is when they hear those magic words, “You’re
nicked, sunshine!”
(4) Ease of cabling
As we mentioned earlier, even wireless IP cameras need
to be powered. Some locations make it difficult, if not
impossible, to get cables through. And Murphy’s Law will
always ensure that the best location is about half-a-metre
too far from the power source!
If power is a real problem, consider a solar-panel and
battery-powered system. You’ll pay more but that might
be a good investment.
(5) Not looking into the sun
Apart from the fact that the camera could be “blind”
for a good part of the day, direct sunshine into the lens
will almost certainly damage the sensor over time (and
sometimes a very short time). Remember too that the path
of the sun changes over the course of a year!
(6) Consider the legalities
The law regarding the use of a webcam is very much
the same as using any camera (still or movie). Setting up a
security camera on your own property is generally quite
legal, especially if it is pointing into your own yard, or
even out into the street or other public place.
Even setting up a camera on a neighbour’s property,
with their permission, aimed back at your place should
be quite OK.
Where you may run foul of the law is if, for example,
your camera might be aimed at a neighbour’s house (even
inadvertently – beware auto pan and tilt cameras!) and
records images from their bedroom or bathroom. Then
(for example in NSW) you could be in breach of Division
15B of the NSW Crimes Act 1900 (specifically section 91).
This follows somewhat similar legislation in Queensland
(Section 227A(2)).
You may also breach Privacy Legislation where children
are involved, even in a public place. However, the restrictions are quite narrow and specific (much more than most
people believe).
What about the audio recording?
$
665
One other point: if your camera includes a microphone,
then any speech recorded could come (in NSW, other states
have similar) under section 7(1) of the Surveillance Devices
Act 2007 No 64, which prohibits the recording of private
siliconchip.com.au
What if you don’t have an IP cam?
Within reason, you don’t need one . . . that is, if your PC has
a built-in camera. And these days, most tablets and laptops do!
You can even use a spare Apple or Android phone for the same
thing – it’s not easy to find a phone in the last decade or so that
doesn’t have a camera built in!
You can aim the camera in your device in the direction you want
to view. Your PC or phone will possibly have come with software
loaded to allow you to use it as a webcam; going one step further
and getting it on the net is relatively simple.
One caveat: you need to be able to stop your PC or phone “going to
sleep”; in some cases, this may not be possible. Read your instruction
manual (or make an appointment with Dr Google) to check.
Windows Smartphone/Tablets
If your PC doesn’t have webcam software, you can download
one of the many freebie webcam packages available on the net.
As an example, we’re using a Java webcam app called YAWCAM.
That, by the way, stands for Yet
Another Webcam! It’s certainly
not a new package (I believe it
first came out about 2003; the
latest version [0.4.1] is February
2013) but it’s simple to use and
offers quite a range of features.
Your new best friend Google
may find one that suits you
even better but we’ll stick with
YAWCAM for the moment.
And we’ll get to Apple/Android
phones shortly.
The 4.5MB YAWCAM download suits all iterations of Windows
from 2000, including XP, Vista and Windows 7 & 8. You will also
need Java Runtime Environment (JRE) 6 or later, DirectX 9 or later
and Windows Media Player 9 or later. Your machine is very likely
to have these already; if not or if you need to update, these are all
free downloads – for JRE go to https://java.com/download and
for the Windows software there are numerous sites for download
including Microsoft/Windows.
Best of all, as I said before, YAWCAM is free – though the author
does ask for a donation to cancer research if you find YAWCAM
useful.
Log on to www.yawcam.com and select the Download tab from
the list on the left side. It’s an advert-supported site so clicking
on any other download icon could have you marrying some lovely
Russian model! Once downloaded, click on and install the app.
You can use any camera in or attached to your web-connected PC
then publish the live video via the web. First make sure the camera
you want to use is
installed correctly
with appropriate
drivers (if it is an
external webcam,
these would have
been supplied with
the camera).
When you launch
YAWCAM, it should
detect any webcams
you have – either
siliconchip.com.au
internal or external.
Using an Apple
(iOS) Smartphone/
Tablet
We’ll start with an
Apple (iOS) device.
You’ll need to download
the appropriate app – for
iOS, try the Wireless
Camera app from the
App Store. It will cost
you heaps: $US2.00! One of the beauties of an IP cam is
It uses the iOS built-in that you can be on the other side of
Web Server function to the world (as long as you have ’net
start a website on your access) – this one’s in Sweden.
local network.
Download, install and then open Wireless Camera. The default
“Interval” and “Maximum Images” settings should be fine but you
can tweak them if you wish. All that’s left is to make sure “Motion
Detection”, “Add Timestamp” and “Enabled” are all checked and
your webcam will start
sending what it sees.
This can be viewed
on any browser in
your local network by
pointing it to the local
IP address, which the
app will give you when
you start streaming.
Viewing from
anywhere else (ie, a
remote browser) is a
little more complicated;
the router’s “Network Address Translation” and “Port Forwarding”
features need to be set up to ensure than any incoming request is
directed towards the iOS phone. You’ll need to access the router’s
set-up to do this; refer to the instructions that came with your router.
Using an Android
A different app is required for Android devices. We like Motion
Detector Pro, a 766kB download available from Google Play (simply
search for the name). As its description says, this app enables you
to use your Android device as a remote surveillance camera or spy
cam with motion detection functionality.
The latest version (1.2.2) enables frontface camera support
so you can use either
camera if two are fitted.
Again, there are many
other apps to do the
same or similar things
– some offer many more
features but this can
be at the expense of
either memory or space.
Still, if that’s all you’re
doing with the (surplus)
phone, that’s no big deal.
March 2015 19
conversations without consent.
Presumably, that even includes two crooks talking to
each other in your backyard – while the video from your
webcam is quite OK!
While all this might be a grey area, that could change in
the future (the world is definitely getting more paranoid).
A word to the wise: use the camera for the purpose for
which it was intended!
Setting it up
OK, you’ve gone ahead and purchased one (or more)
wireless IP security cameras which look like they’ll suit
your purposes. You’ve also chosen the camera location and
worked out how to get the power cabling to it.
Before you mount the camera, we strongly suggest you
get it going at ground level first. As the old proverb says,
“there’s many a slip between cup and lip”.
Invariably, every wireless IP camera instruction sheet
we’ve seen says to set it up using a network (Cat5e) cable
before moving on to wireless. That’s good advice because
it takes one variable out of the equation.
Then, when it all works, flip over to wireless and prove
that’s a goer too. That’s not without its pitfalls which is
why we’ve prepared a separate “Going Wireless” article
elsewhere in this issue.
And before you start, read right through the instructions
packaged with the camera, even if they’re in Chinglish,
so you have at least a reasonable understanding of what’s
required. In the vast majority of cases, manufacturers give
a website for additional information (though we’re not
saying that’s always kosher, either!).
As we mentioned earlier, if in doubt AND you purchased
over-the-counter, ask your supplier.
Example: EasyN Camera Setup
Apart from the hassles of translating an instruction sheet
to English, (and the uber-tiny print on an A6 page!) EasyN
is simple to set up once you get the bugs out. In fact, it is
one of the easiest we tried because once you find the right
software, it’s all virtually automatic:
1: plug the network cable into your modem/router.
2: connect the power supply
3: download the software from your iPhone/Android store
(it’s free),
4: use your smartphone’s camera and QR code software
to take a pic of the camera’s QR code (barcode) on your
phone. This “fills in all the blanks” so your phone can
log onto the right camera.
And that’s pretty much it. Of course, it helps if your
phone has that QR code software (mine didn’t, so I had to
download that too – it’s free) but once loaded, it accepted
the image of the barcode without any problem.
The smartphone image (as seen on page 16) came up
pretty well straight away and I was able to move the pan/
tilt EasyN camera by swiping the screen.
Oh, one slight difficulty – on loading, the pan/tilt worked
opposite to that shown; ie, you swiped up to go down, left
to go right, etc. It was only then that I realised I had the
camera sitting on a shelf, so it was effectively upside down!
Wireless camera setup
Overleaf, we look at how to set up IP cameras using
wireless connections. It’s not that difficult – but there are
some traps for the unwary.
SC
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
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This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from
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If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more
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Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you.
• Every issue individually archived, by month and year
• Complete with index for each year
• A must-have for everyone interested in electronics
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Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC.
Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!)
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“IP”: What does that mean?
We’ve talked about “IP” cameras this month – but do you know what those two letters means? In electronics/computing, they
commonly have two meanings – and when referring to security cameras, both are important, especially those to be used outside!
(1) Internet Protocol
This simply means that it is a device
which can be used on and accessed via
the internet, because it conforms to the
standards used by the internet.
The Internet Protocol is part of TCP/IP
(Transmission Control Protocol/Internet
Protocol) and the terms “IP network” and
“TCP/IP” are basically synonymous.
IP uses a “packet switched” architecture,
in which data are broken up into many
smaller “packets”, each one also containing
a source address and a destination address.
This means the packet is routable – that
is, any terminal or node which receives the
packet will forward it along until it reaches
its destination.
The other important point to note is
that a temporary loss of data signal will
normally mean that most packets will get
through. TCP also ensures that missing or
corrupted packets are normally re-sent, with
error checking built in.
The data packets may not arrive in the
same order, nor perhaps even via the same
route, but are “re-assembled” at the receiving
end.
As well as being the communications
protocol of the public internet, Internet
Protocol is also used by many Wide Area
Networks (WANs) and most Local Area
Networks (LANs).
(2) Ingress Protection rating
This is an internationally recognised
standard, devised by the IEC (International
Electrotechnical Commission), and defines
just what – both solids and liquids – can or
cannot enter a particular device.
The device in question will have a code
INGRESS PROTECTION RATING
consisting of the letters IP followed by two
digits – for example, IP65.
The first digit, from 0 to 6, refers to
protection against solid particle ingress
while the second, from 0 to 8, refers to
ingress of liquids (usually, specifically,
water).
The table below shows IP ratings and
their meanings. As you can see, the higher
the numbers, the better the protection.
A device for use inside might have a
rating of, say, IP43 – it’s protected against
most small objects greater than 1mm in
size and can withstand spraying water for
five minutes.
For outside use, the minimum you would
expect is IP65 or IP66 – dust tight and
reasonably high pressure water resistant
for at least three minutes.
Higher ratings (IP67 or IP68) can stand
full immersion in water up to 1m (or more).
First Digit:
0
1
2
3
4
5
Object Size
Protected Against
—
>50mm
>12.5mm
>2.5mm
>1mm
Dust protected
6
Dust tight
Effective against
No protection against contact and ingress of objects
Any large body, such as the back of a hand, but no protection against deliberate contact with a body part
Fingers or similar objects
Tools, thick wires, etc.
Most wires, screws, etc.
Ingress of dust is not entirely prevented but it must not enter in sufficient quantity to interfere with the satisfactory
operation of the equipment; complete protection against contact
No ingress of dust; complete protection against contact
Second Digit:
Testing for
0
1
Level
Protected against
Not protected
Dripping water
Dripping water (vertically falling drops) shall have no harmful effect.
Test duration: 10 minutes, Water equivalent to 1mm rainfall per minute
2
Dripping water
Vertically dripping water shall have no harmful effect when the enclosure is tilted at an angle of up to 15° from its normal
position.
Test duration: 10 minutes Water equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute
3
Spraying water
Water falling as a spray at any angle up to 60° from the vertical shall have no harmful effect.
Test duration: 5 minutes. Water volume: 0.7 litres per minute. Pressure: 80–100kPa
4
Splashing of water
Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effect.
Test duration: 5 minutes. Water volume: 10 litres per minute. Pressure: 80–100kPa
5
Water jets
Water projected by a nozzle (6.3mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.
Test duration: at least 3 minutes. Water volume: 12.5 litres per minute. Pressure: 30kPa at distance of 3 m
6
Powerful waterjets
Water projected in powerful jets (12.5mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.
Test duration: at least 3 minutes. Water volume: 100 litres per minute. Pressure: 100kPa at distance of 3 m
7
Immersion up to 1m
Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined
conditions of pressure and time (up to 1m of submersion).
Test duration: 30 minutes. Immersion at depth of at least 1m measured at bottom of device, and at least 150mm measured
at top of device
8
Immersion beyond 1m
The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the
manufacturer. Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed. However, with certain types of
equipment, it can mean that water can enter but only in such a manner that it produces no harmful effects.
siliconchip.com.au
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SC
March 2015 21
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