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Sensa
Design by
Allan Linton-Smith
30 Silicon Chip
We thought Allan Linton-Smith had
designed the ultimate high fidelity
build-it-yourself loudspeakers when
he presented the “Majestics” back
in June last year.
But we were wrong!
siliconchip.com.au
ational!
These look even better and sound
amazing – but they’re smaller and
even easier to build. They compare
more than favourably with “big name”
speakers costing many times the price.
We call them The Senators.
siliconchip.com.au
Words by
Leo Simpson
SSeptember
eptember 2015 31
2015 31
How do Senator and Majestic compare?
“Senator” Speaker Frequency Response
10/06/2015 18:07:50
+25
+20
+15
+10
Relative Amplitude (dBr)
We’ll let the graphs tell the story: At left is frequency
response for the Senator (dark blue) compared to the
Majestic (light blue). As you can see, the overall response
is flatter however the bass -3dB point is higher at ~25Hz
compared to around 15Hz for the Majestics.
The centre graph shows the distortion plot at 1W. Midrange distortion is very low for the Senator speakers
although the smaller bass drivers result in higher
distortion at lower frequencies compared to the Majestic.
No surprises that treble distortion is similar as they use
the same tweeter and horn.
And at right, like the Majestics, the Senator speakers have
a similar but less peaked impedance curve. Note that
impedance is above 8 ohms at all frequencies, although
it may dip slightly below above 10kHz if the treble boost
network is in-circuit. The upper bass impedance peak is
around 80Hz, compared to 57Hz for the Majestic.
+30
+5
Majestic
+0
Senator
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
-30
-35
-40
10
20
50
100
200
500
1k
2k
5k
10k
20k
Frequency (Hz)
Did you lust after the Majestic loudspeakers described in our June 2014
issue? That massive 15-inch woofer and the Celestion horn tweeter
gave very high efficiency, super power handling and staggering bass
response down to below 20Hz. But now we present a somewhat less bulky
loudspeaker system, still with high efficiency and high power handling but
easier to build and even (gulp) better looking.
T
he Majestic loudspeaker certainly raised a lot of interest last year. Some readers simply did not believe
that it has a linear response down to below 20Hz.
“Not possible!”, they said. On the other hand, no-one
who built these loudspeakers has written to us complaining
that it doesn’t go down to 20Hz and below.
If you assess it on sheer performance, it must be one
of the greatest loudspeaker bargains ever produced over
many decades.
However, the Majestic design does have a number of
drawbacks. First, there is no denying that it is B-I-G! And
heavy; too big, too heavy and too imposing for most people’s homes.
Nor is it particularly easy to build, even allowing for
the fact that the cabinet is based on the readily available
Kaboodle kitchen cabinets (from Bunnings hardware stores)
which can provide a flawless finish.
Another problem was that the originally specified Etone
tweeter horn and also the Etone 15-inch woofer have become unavailable and the only suitable alternatives are
presently the much more expensive Celestion tweeter horn
and Celestion 15-inch woofer.
That makes the Majestic much less attractive to any audio
enthusiast with a tight budget.
So a number of readers asked us for a somewhat slimmeddown version of the Majestic, incorporating all of its desirable characteristics but smaller, better looking, easier to
build etc etc...
Well, as much as we’d like to, the laws of physics simply
do not allow us to produce a smaller loudspeaker system
with the same high efficiency and frequency response
down to below 20Hz.
But we have been quietly (actually, not so quietly!) bea32 Silicon Chip
vering away to produce a very attractive alternative to the
Majestic which we have called the Senator.
The woofer
It is based on a Celestion NTR10-2520D 10-inch woofer
with a stated efficiency of 96dB/1W<at>1m and a power rating of 250W (AES).
By the way, that is not some “mickey mouse” rating that
you see with some consumer audio equipment. This is the
AES (Audio Engineering Society) rating which tests the
speaker with continuous band-limited pink noise for two
hours in free air (no baffle). That is a very stringent test and
you can imagine how hot the voice coil and magnet must
become during such a protracted test.
And think of the long-term stresses on the cone and its
suspension.
Incidentally, the voice coil is 64mm (2.5 inches), wound
with copper-coated aluminium ribbon on a fibreglass
former.
The magnet is not as massive as you might expect with
such a high efficiency driver since it is a neodymium type
and quite compact. In fact the overall mass of the Celestion woofer with its rugged cast alumininium basket is
only 2.2kg.
Interestingly, as you can see in our photos of the drivers (page 35) the voice coil is ventilated to improve heat
dissipation and improve linearity (since the air otherwise
trapped behind the cone’s large voice dust cap is not subject
to large pressure variations by high amplitude signals).
The curvilinear cone is made of Kevlar-loaded paper,
with a fabric roll surround. The loudspeaker’s spider
(which suspends and attaches the voice to the chassis) is
particularly large at about 130mm in diameter, and together
siliconchip.com.au
10
“Senator” Speaker Distortion
10/06/2015 19:27:03
70
“Senator” Speaker Impedance
11/06/2015 19:23:43
5
60
50
Senator
1
Impedance (Ohms)
Total Harmonic Distortion (%)
2
0.5
0.2
Majestic
40
30
Majestic
0.1
Senator
20
0.05
10
0.02
0.01
Dotted line indicates effect
of treble boost network
20
50
100
200
500
1k
2k
5k
10k
20k
0
10
20
50
with the specially treated roll surround, allows for large
linear cone excursions.
And the tweeter
The specified tweeter is the same Celestion CDX1-1730
compression driver mated with a Celestion T1534 horn
(as featured in the follow-up article on the Majestics in the
September 2014 issue).
The crossover network PCB is the same as the Majestic but
with slight component changes, to be detailed next month.
The specs
If you take a look at the specification panel for the Senator
and compare it to the spec panel for the Majestic (page 24,
June 2015), you will see that it comes pretty close. Sure,
it does not have a flat response all the way down to below
20Hz but the response is only 5dB down at 20Hz and less
than -3dB at 30Hz. That is a very good result from a 10-inch
driver in a considerably smaller enclosure.
Note that the frequency response from 60Hz to 20kHz is
Senator
100
200
500
1k
2k
5k
10k
20k
Frequency (Hz)
Frequency (Hz)
very smooth and in fact, a little smoother than the original
published response curves for the Majestic with the Etone
horn (June 2014) or the Celestion horn (September 2014).
Not only that, the Senator’s efficiency is only 2dB less
than that of the Majestic and its power handling is only
1.6dB less, so this is capable of dangerously high sound
levels – an estimated 119dB at a distance of 1 metre!
Mind you, we don’t recommend anyone driving a
finished Senator at such insane levels for any more than
normal program peaks.
Unless the cabinet is strongly reinforced, there is no guaranteeing its integrity if subjected to
extreme and continuous power
levels up to 250W.
The 200W/channel ULD amplifier
module in this
issue is ideal for
driving the Senator – providing,
Speaker Specifications
Power Handling: up to 250W RMS
(AES standard, continuous pink noise)
Sensitivity: 95dB / 1 watt <at> 1m
Frequency Response: +5/-3dB 20Hz – 20kHz
Harmonic Distortion: <2.4% 20-50Hz; (typically less than 0.5%)
Cabinet size: 340 (w) x 740 (h) x 433 (d) (mm)
Woofer:
Celestion NTR10-2520D 10”
Tweeter: Celestion CDX1-1730 compression driver,
mated with a Celestion T1534 horn
Crossover: 2-way first order (6dB/octave slope)
siliconchip.com.au
September 2015 33
that is, that you don’t try to drive it at maximum power
for even relatively short lengths of time. If you did, you’d
probably damage your hearing, if nothing else. What
didya say?
One the other hand, if you drove it with the modestlypowered Currawong valve amplifier, for example, it
would still be capable of extremely loud volume levels
in an average listening room.
Apart from being able to deliver very high sound levels,
there is another advantage of the Senator’s high efficiency
of 95dB/1W<at>1m, compared to a typical high fidelity loudspeaker of maybe less than 90db/1W<at>1m (and sometimes
less than 87dB/1W<at>1m) so that you are very unlikely to
drive your amplifier into clipping on program peaks.
There just isn’t the need to have the volume control
turned well up.
That means the high dynamic range of modern sound
recordings will be fully preserved, even if you are listening to the most boisterous symphonies or operas.
Gentle impedance characteristic
Another worthwhile advantage of the Senator is that it
has a “gentle” impedance curve over the whole audible
spectrum from 20Hz to 20kHz and nowhere does the
impedance drop below 8Ω.
This in contrast to some loudspeakers which can have
dips in the impedance curve well below 4Ω. The benefit
of this gentle impedance curve is that it is very easy to
drive for typical audio amplifiers and they will produce
less distortion in the process, since distortion in all amplifiers increases as the loudspeaker impedance is reduced.
Cabinet features
As with the Majestic loudspeaker system, the Senator is
based on the “Kaboodle” Flatpax Kitchen cabinet system,
available from Bunnings Warehouses, so it will be locally
available to everyone in Australia.
This system, which usually allows you to create your
dream kitchen cabinets, is very easy to construct so you will
get a very professional finish with the basic cabinet together
with high quality thermoformed doors ... er, speaker baffles
... and sides imported from Germany.
So the speaker box is really a 450mm wide kitchen wall
cabinet with the front door used for the two sides and a
side panel for the baffle and top. Some simple modifications are required to put it all together.
The specific cabinet we used normally sells for a shade
under $75 so for $150 (pair) you have the basis of a great
speaker system. And the beauty is that every piece is cut
100% square (you only need to make a couple of cuts
yourself to make them into speakers).
Most home-made speaker systems fail in the beauty
department but you can build this one and get a perfect
finish and a totally professional appearance and build it in
a weekend…but if you want to keep your partner happy,
you had better let the decorator of the house choose from
the huge range of colours available.
You could try a black piano finish or brilliant glossy
First step is to assemble three
sides of the carcase from the
Kaboodle 450mm Kitchen
Wall Cabinet. You’ll need an
additional pair of hands to assist
here – remember that the weight
of the top and bottom panels can
tear them loose from the side
panel. All joins should be both
glued’n’screwed (don’t rely on
screws alone because the joins
need to be airtight).
Second step is
to fit the front
and rear panels –
note that one side of
the speaker carcase (aka
cabinet!) is left open.
Also note that we have not,
as yet, cut any holes – these
are best done with the panels
attached so you have something to
grip while cutting!
34 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The Speaker Drivers We Used . . .
As mentioned in the text, the Celestion NTR10-2520D
woofer used in the Senator is quite different to that in the
Majestic – apart from the obvious difference in size (10 inches
vs 15 inches).
While this size difference (and the smaller enclosure size)
would normally be expected to have a major impact on bass
response, we’ve gone to a lot of trouble to ensure this is not
as significant as you might expect. In fact, we’re pretty happy
with the performance of the Senators!
Of particular interest – and very obvious in the photo above
left – is the vented voice coil, which improves both heat dissipation and linearity.
The Celestion CDX1-1730 compression tweeter mated
with a Celestion T1534 horn, on the other hand, is exactly
the same as that used in the revised Majestic speaker (September 2014).
This change was forced upon us because of supply problems with the original tweeter but, as they say, every cloud has
a silver lining: this driver/horn combination performs superbly
in both the Majestic and Sentaor speakers.
CL
300
TWEETER
Third step,
before you
cut the holes
in the front
panel for the
drivers, is to cut
and fit the side support,
which keeps the box rigid.
It can be cut from a piece of
hardwood, MDF, etc. Like all
panels, glue’n’screw it in place.
siliconchip.com.au
Step four:
speaking of the
holes for the
drivers, here’s the
cutting detail
for the
woofer, tweeter
and port to be
cut in the
cabinet front
panel.
The same holes
need to be cut
in the Kaboodle
dress panel;
obviously this
panel is slightly
larger so refer
to the diagram
overleaf to get
the correct
dimensions.
We don’t fit the
speakers until
much later but the
holes are best cut
now.
120
100
140
720
233
DIAM
WOOFER
330
90
DIAM
100
September 2015 35
SIDE VIEW
CL
30
300
JAYCAR
POCKET
HANDLE
60
60
TWEETER
100
HOLE FOR
HANDLE
POCKET
Step five:
720
similarly, the
holes in the rear
panel to house
the handle and
the plate-mounted
speaker terminals
should be cut now.
Neither positions
are particularly
critical; however,
the handle must
have clearance
from the top
panel as it slopes
upwards inside
the box.
SIDE SUPPORT
417mm WIDE
(135 x 19mm DAR HARDWOOD
OR 15mm MDF)
WOOFER
TERMINAL
PLATE
REFLECTOR
280 X 415mm
90
DIAM
HOLE FOR
SPEAKER
TERMINALS
90
CROSSOVER
PCB
200
white, or be really daring and go for “seduction red” in full
gloss or the more conservative “Myrtle gloss”.
If you want it all to match with some modern colour
schemes you might even like to use “mocca Latte” and let
the speakers blend into the background!
Many Bunnings outlets have samples of their finishes on
display so you get to look and touch them before you decide.
If white is your colour, the Kaboodle in gloss white finish is immediately available at many Bunning’s outlets but
we decided that we must build a pair in “seduction red”.
These (as for some of the other colours) need to be ordered
and will take about two weeks.
Construction
While the cabinet is based on a standard Kaboodle
kitchen wall cabinet and dress panels, our method of construction is quite different from that normally used and as
depicted in the instructions and the DVD that is available
from Bunnings.
By all means look at those instructions and DVD because
they give useful background info but then you should
largely ignore it and follow the assembly diagrams in this
article.
We are taking a kitchen wall cabinet which would normally be wide and shallow. We rotate it so that it is fairly
narrow but deep, giving an enclosure which has a relatively
small frontal area but is quite deep. That way, a pair of these
speakers will appear to be less bulky and take less space
in your listening room.
So what we are basically doing is building a box within
36 Silicon Chip
PORT
(88mm ID)
150
150
Step six: the reflector board (at bottom) is made from the
Kaboodle shelf, glued into position as shown. Wires from
the terminal plate will be routed around this piece.
a box. We assemble the standard cabinet “carcase” with
one side missing. To take the place of the missing side, we
put in a support panel.
We then cut the holes in what will be the front panel for
the tweeter, woofer and bass reflex port. We also cut the
holes in what will be the rear panel for the terminal plate
and the hand-hold (very handy for lifting the rather heavy
finished enclosure). The full procedure is outlined in the
accompanying diagrams.
However, as you proceed, there are a few important
things to keep in mind:
(a) Leave the protective plastic coating on the Kaboodle
gloss dress panels until the enclosures are complete
and all the hardware (speakers, crossover PCB etc) are
installed. They’ll minimise scratches and damage from
any “oopses”. Be especially careful not to drop screwdrivers or other tools onto the dress panels.
(b) All joins must include a bead of silicone sealant to
ensure they are airtight. We used bathroom caulking
compound which has very good adhesive properties. It
is good because it allows you move panels slightly to get
the position just right but once it has set, it is extremely
strong.
After all, a similar method is used to assemble aquarium
tanks.
Too much sealant is better than not enough – but be
careful to clean up any excess as you go. The longer you
leave it, the harder it will be remove.
(c) Openings for the woofers and tweeters need to be cut in
the ‘door’ panels. These are best cut from the non-glossy
siliconchip.com.au
CL
320
TWEETER
120
100
Speaker Parts List
Timber requirements (per enclosure)
Kaboodle 450mm Wall Cabinet (Bunnings Part No W-51623)
(16mm HMR panels)
2 End Panels (Bunnings: Seduction Red part no D65744)*
1 Door (Bunnings Seduction Red part no D65699)*
1 Shelf (becomes angled ‘diffuser’ panel) 415 x 280mm
1 Side Support (113 x 417mm, 16mm MDF or DAR timber)
* Other colours will have different part numbers
140
720
720
Cutting detail
for the front
dress panel. The
holes are in the
same positions
as the box front
panel but the
dress panel is
slightly larger
than the inner
box panel, hence
the difference in
dimensions.
Dress panel
fitting is shown
overleaf.
Senator
233
DIAM
Other components required (per enclosure)
WOOFER
90
DIAM
PORT
1 10” Woofer (Electric Factory 28/NTR10-2520D) #
1 Compression Driver (Electric Factory 28/CDX1-1730) #
1 Horn (Electric Factory 28/H1-7050) #
1 150mm offcut of 90mm PVC stormwater pipe
1 Terminal Plate (Jaycar PT3012)
1 Handle Pocket (Jaycar HS8012)
330 4 Legs to suit (Bunnings 100mm chrome “Leggz” Pack of 4)
2 rolls acrylic fibre (acoustic wadding) 700 x 1000mm
(Jaycar AX3694)
1 Crossover PCB assembly (see next month)
1 cartridge of neutral-cure silicone sealant
100
~ 2m heavy-duty figure-8 polarised speaker wire
48 50mm 10g woodscrews (countersunk head)
16 10g 40mm stainless woodscrews
Miscellaneous screws to suit terminal plates, crossover
PCBs and hand-holds
# (www.elfa.com.au)
side with a jigsaw fitted with a fine-tooth blade.
(d) You will need to cut holes in the cabinet carcase for
the loudspeakers etc and you will also need to cut corresponding holes in the front panel for the loudspeakers
and the bass reflex port.
e) These holes are best cut with a jigsaw from the “back”
side for best results (so that the gloss exterior finish is
not likely to be scratched). The same comment applies
when you need to cut a side panel slightly shorter to act
as the top of the cabinet.
(f) You will need some 16mm MDF or particle board cut to
the dimensions given in the relevant diagram parts list
to make up the side support panel.
(g) The four adjustable feet supplied with the Kaboodle
kit should be left in their packing until the enclosure is
finished and the hardware mounted.
(h) The Kaboodle shelf should not be discarded as it is used
to make the angled reflector panel inside the enclosure.
(i) The driver units are mounted using stainless steel screws
10G x 18-25mm, countersunk head. They are the last
items fitted.
The completed inner box,
from the front, with all holes
cut, ready for internal fitout and
wiring and the installation of dress panels.
siliconchip.com.au
Next month
We’ll conclude the assembly of The Senator speakers
with details of the crossover, as well as tying up some loose
ends (such as wiring, fitting feet, etc).
September 2015 37
The front
panel goes on,
with holes cut
out to exactly
match those on
the inner panel...
poke the speaker
wires through the
appropriate holes ,
ready for the
speakers to be
mounted when the
boxes are finished.
Next, the
two side
panels are
glued into
place. Make
sure you wipe
up any excess
sealant before
it cures. By the
way, it’s better to
leave the protective
plastic on the panels
until the boxes are finished.
(Left): the crossover
(which we finally
mounted on the
bottom of the box)
is hidden by the
rolled-up acoustic
wadding in this
photo. The front
dress panel is also
glued in place, ready
for the speakers to
be connected. We
painted the inside
(and some of the
outside!) of the 90mm
PVC pipe to make it
less obtrusive. This
detail will be covered
next month.
(Right): from the
opposite side
(looking from rear to
front), the completed
inner box with the
input terminal plate
and “pocket” handle
fitted, along with the
acoustic dampening
acrylic material. Note
how we’ve dangled
the speaker wires
through their holes,
ready for mounting.
Prototype boxes shown:
Final versions are not mirror-image and have rectangular tweeter holes.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
433mm
The top panel as
supplied is too long,
so it needs to be (very
carefully!) cut to size
(433mm deep) and
smoothed off. When
this is done, the top
panel can be glued into
position, chamfered
edges up. It sits flush
with the front surface but
indented slightly (about
8mm) on each side, as
seen in the photo below.
Here’s what your
finished Senator
speaker boxes
should look like,
immediately before
mounting the
speakers in the
holes. The back
and underneath are
not covered by dress
panels; they’re the
only ones that
aren’t. SC
Radio, TV & Hobbies
April 1939-March 1965
The complete archive on DVD:
every article to enjoyonce again
Every issue individually archived by month and year
Complete with index for each year – a must-have for
anyone interested in electronics.
This remarkable archival collection spans
nearly three decades of Australia’s own
Radio & Hobbies and Radio, TV & Hobbies
magazines,from April 1939 right through to
the final issue in March 1965. Every article is
scanned into PDF format ready to read and reread at your leisure on your home computer
(obviously, a computer with a DVD-ROM is
required, along with Acrobat Reader 6 or later
(Acrobat Reader is a free download from
Adobe).
For history buffs, it’s worth its weight in gold.
For anyone with even the vaguest interest in
Australia’s radio and television history (and
much more) what could be better?
For students, this archive gives an extraordinary
ILICON HIP insight into the amazing breakthroughs in radio
NB: requires a computer and electronics following the war years (and
with DVD reader to view speaking of the war, R&H had some of the best
– will not play on a
propaganda you’re ever likely to see!)
standard audio/Video
This is one DVD which you must have in your
DVD player.
collection!
ONLY
$
00
62
plus P&P
The rear panel
of the Senators
houses the
“pocket” handle
(top) and the
input connector
plate (bottom).
This out-of-sight
panel is not
covered by a
dress panel.
siliconchip.com.au
Only available
from
S
C
ORDER ONLINE NOW AT
WWW.SILICONCHIP.COM.AU
September 2015 39
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