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Revised USB Charger
Regulator With Low
Battery Cut-Out
This revised version of the tiny USB charger module presented
in the July 2015 issue now has extra circuitry to prevent any
USB device such as a permanently connected dash-camera from
discharging the car’s battery below 12.15V. We’ve boosted the
continuous output current from 2.5A to 3A and as well as being
installed in a motor vehicle, it could be built as a portable USB
device charger or for many other purposes.
By Nicholas Vinen
W
E’VE HAD a good response to
our article in the July 2015 issue
on installing USB charging points in a
car. One of the benefits of that approach
is that the USB sockets are powered
even when the vehicle ignition is off,
allowing phones and similar devices to
be left charging while the car is parked.
That brings up the risk of draining
the vehicle battery if those devices
are left plugged in long-term, which
was discussed in the July article. Basically, the stated solution was to avoid
connecting anything permanently if
it draws a lot of current from the USB
socket on a continuous basis.
One reader asked why we didn’t
simply incorporate a low-battery cutout in the circuit to address this. The
simple answer is that we were trying
to minimise both the complexity of
the design and the cost of building the
Features & Specifications
Maximum sustained input voltage: 15V
Low battery cut-out: 12.15V
Battery cut-in voltage: 12.86V
High efficiency: typically >90%, 0.5-2A
Output voltage range: 0.8-15V, typically 5V (must be at least 2V below input)
Output current: up to 3A
Quiescent current: approximately 1mA
Current with low battery cut-out engaged: typically <10µA
Output ripple and noise: ~5mV RMS <at> 1.2A
Load regulation: ~150mV/A, 0-250mA; ~75mV/A, 250-3000mA
Line regulation: <1mV/V
Transient response: output stabilises within ~20μs for a ±1.2A load step
Other features: transient voltage suppression, no heatsinking necessary, soft start,
output short circuit protection, output over-current protection, overheating protection
64 Silicon Chip
unit. Had the switchmode regulator
IC used in that project incorporated a
programmable under-voltage lock-out
feature (as some do), we would have
used it but unfortunately the RT8299A, despite its other good points,
does not.
The RT8299A does have an enable
input (pin 6) but this is designed to be
driven with a logic signal and it has a
low and ill-defined threshold voltage;
thus we can’t use a resistive divider to
set any kind of accurate threshold. An
external voltage reference and comparator are therefore required.
Circuit description
The revised circuit is shown in
Fig.1. The top part is basically identical to the original USB charger circuit
shown on page 37 of the July 2015
issue, with one small change we’ll
get to later. The added section below
is derived from the Battery Lifesaver
circuit shown on page 66 of the September 2013 issue.
The incoming 12V supply connects
to linear low-dropout regulator REG2
which provides both the power supply
and an accurate reference voltage to
micropower comparator IC1. REG2 has
siliconchip.com.au
100nF
50V X7R
D1
SSA33L
A
8
2
K
6
12V
INPUT
K
1
+
–
2x 10 µF
TVS1
PGOOD
SW
FB
GND
4
A
CON1
BO O T
REG1
RT8299A
EN
25V X5R
15V
2
7
Vcc
VIN
1
3
6.8k
3
OUT
IN
2
1.3k
10M
ZD1
16V
1 µF
SC
1 µF
2
IC1
4
A
20 1 5
7
3
1M
Added protection
ZD1 and its associated 1.3kΩ resistor are not shown on the photo of the
siliconchip.com.au
RT8299A,
MCP6541
IN
GND
8
OUT
4
1
6
IC1: MCP6541
MINI 12V USB POWER SUPPLY MK2
an output voltage tolerance of ±0.4%.
The battery voltage is divided by two
resistors, 1.43MΩ and 1MΩ.
These values are chosen so that the
voltage at the non-inverting input (pin
3) of IC1 drops below the 5V reference
at pin 2 once the supply voltage drops
below 12.15V. The 10MΩ resistor provides about 0.75V hysteresis, so that
if the unit switches off due to a low
vehicle battery voltage, it won’t switch
back on until the battery rises above
12.86V, ie, the next time the engine is
started and the battery starts to charge.
So the output of IC1 is high when
the battery voltage is sufficiently high
and low otherwise. This output goes to
the enable pin (pin 6) of REG1 to shut
the regulator down when the battery
voltage is low. The 100kΩ pull-up
resistor originally provided for the
EN pin is no longer needed although
we’ve left the pads on the PCB. This
allows the original circuit to also be
built on this PCB, in which case REG2,
IC1 and their associated components
are simply omitted.
VBUS
D–
D+
GND
MCP1703
K
A
1
K
SSA33L, ZD1
1.43M
GND
1
2
3
4
16V X5R
+5V
VBUS
D–
D+
GND
CON2b
2x 22 µF
100pF
50V COG
REG2 MCP1703–
5002–E/CB
1
2
3
4
OUT–
100Ω
1.3k
CON2a
50V X7R
5
2x USB
TYPE A
OUT+
100nF L1 6.8 µH
Fig.1: the circuit is based on an RT8299A
switchmode step-down regulator (REG1).
TVS1 protects the regulator from transient
voltage spikes, while diode D1 provides
reverse polarity protection. Comparator IC1
shuts down REG1 if the battery voltage falls
below 12.15V.
prototype. They were added to the
final version to better protect REG2
against supply spikes which are common in vehicles. This is necessary
because while TVS1 clamps REG1’s
supply below its 24V maximum, this
is too high for REG2 to handle, with
its maximum rating of 18V.
Since ZD1 has a breakdown voltage
of 16V, it will not conduct with normal
automotive battery voltages (12-15V)
but will protect REG2 during the worst
spikes. Its leakage current at normal
operating voltages is negligible.
When the EN pin of REG1 is pulled
low and its output is shut down, it
draws less than 3µA. REG2 consumes
around 2µA and IC1 around 0.7µA.
There’s a further 5µA through the battery sense resistive divider for a total
of around 10µA. This is well below the
self-discharge current of a car battery
and a tiny fraction of the load a typical
modern vehicle puts on its battery with
the ignition switched off.
Note that 1.43MΩ seems like an
odd value for a resistor but it is in the
E96 series and is easy enough to get.
Failing that, you can parallel 5.1MΩ
and 2MΩ resistors (both E24 values).
Paralleling SMD resistors is easily
done since they can be soldered on
top of one another.
Step-down regulator
In the July 2015 issue, we explained
in detail how switchmode regulator
REG1 works. In brief, the voltage at
pin 3 (SW) toggles between 0V and
the incoming supply voltage (ie, that
at pin 2, VIN). When pin 3 is high,
current flows through inductor L1
into the output filter capacitors and
the load, charging up L1’s magnetic
field. When pin 3 is driven low, this
magnetic field begins to collapse and
as as result, current continues to flow
into the load but this time it’s pulled
from ground via pin 4.
The duty cycle of the square wave
output at pin 3 is controlled so that
the average voltage at the load is very
close to 5V. This is determined by
sampling the feedback voltage at pin 5
(FB), which comes from a 6.8kΩ/1.3kΩ
resistive divider across the output.
When the output voltage is 5V, the
feedback voltage is 0.8V and this
matches REG1’s internal reference. If
the feedback voltage is too low, REG1
increases the duty cycle and if it’s too
high, the duty cycle is reduced.
September 2015 65
+
CON1
1.3k
REG2
D1 K
1 µF
L1
100Ω
6R8
ZD1
1 µF
1.3k
1.43M
6.8k
1
22 µF
OUT+
OUT+
22 µF
OUT–
OUT–
CON2
10M
IC1
100pF 100nF
1
REG1
RT8299
100nF
10 µF
1M
MCP6541
10 µF
DUAL
TYPE A
USB SOCKET
FOR CON2
(VERTICAL
MOUNTING)
+
−
K TVS1
Once again, you will have to pick
the closest value you can actually get.
12V
12V
−
SCREW
TERMINALS
OR SIL
HEADER FOR
CON1
–
+
–
+
18107152
Fig.2: follow these top and bottom layout diagrams and the photos to assemble
the PCB. Take care with the orientation of REG1, TVS1 & D1 on the top and
REG2, IC1 & ZD1 on the bottom. Note that the photos show a prototype PCB.
The capacitor between pin 3 and pin
1 (BOOT) is used to generate a voltage
of around 10V (the output voltage plus
5V) which REG1 uses to drive the gate
of its internal Mosfet in order to pull
pin 3 high. The series capacitor and
resistor from pin 3 to ground form a
snubber to reduce the rate of voltage
change at this pin, cutting down on
EMI.
Increased output current
The literature provided for REG1
suggests a filter inductor value of
around 2.2µH. Choosing switchmode
inductor values can be quite tricky as
there are trade-offs. The advantage of
low values such as the 2.2µH suggested
is that since they require fewer turns
of wire, the wire can be shorter and
thicker, thus lowering resistive losses.
They can also be physically smaller
both due to less wire and a smaller core.
However, lower inductance does
mean more output ripple voltage,
while changing the inductor value
changes the time constants in the
switchmode feedback loop and can
affect stability and transient response.
The 10µH inductor specified for
the original version of this circuit
has a continuous current rating of
around 2.5A. This time, we tried a
similarly-sized 6.8µH inductor with
a 3A continuous current rating and a
saturation current of 3.9A. Thus we
can now obtain the full 3A output
specified for REG1 while the ripple
level is still very low.
Along with the PCB, we’ve been
supplying a kit of parts for the USB
charger project that includes all the
SMDs. We’ll do the same for this re66 Silicon Chip
vised version and it will include the
new inductor plus the extra components for the low-battery cut-out.
Changing the voltage thresholds
The 12.15V threshold will suit most
lead-acid, AGM or SLA/gel cell batteries and should leave sufficient charge
to start a motor. However, it’s possible
some constructors will want to change
this, eg, if powering the unit with a
Li-ion, LiPo or LiFePO4 battery instead. The easiest way to do this is
to replace the 1.43MΩ resistor with
a different value – if necessary, by
paralleling two standard values.
For a desired cut-out threshold Vco,
calculate the required value Rdiv in
ohms as:
Rdiv = (Vco -5V) x 200,000
and pick the nearest value available.
For example, for a 12.5V threshold,
use a 1.5MΩ resistor. Calculate the
threshold from the chosen resistor
value as:
Vco = (Rdiv ÷ 200,000) + 5V
The cut-in threshold Vci is then:
Vci = (Rdiv ÷ 181,818) + 5V
If you need to lower this (ie, reduce
hysteresis), increase the value of the
10MΩ resistor; 15MΩ, 22MΩ and
33MΩ SMD resistors are available.
Alternatively, to increase hysteresis,
lower the value of the 10MΩ resistor. The hysteresis voltage Vh for a
feedback resistor Rfb is calculated as:
Vh = (Vco - 5V) x 1,000,000 ÷ Rfb
For the value specified, this gives
0.715V. If you need a particular cut-in
voltage, calculate the resistor value
thus:
Rfb = (Vco - 5V) ÷ (Vci - Vco) x
1,000,000
Construction
Fig.2 shows the new component
overlay diagrams. The top side is virtually identical to that shown in the
July issue; all the extra parts have been
added to the bottom. The revised PCB
is coded 18107152 and measures 16 x
51mm. It’s easiest to fit all the components to the top side of the board first.
Start by fitting REG1. While an
SOIC-8 package is generally easy to
solder, this one has a thermal pad on
the underside which is also supposed
to be soldered to the board. To do this
properly, you need to use a hot-air rework station. These are available from
eBay sellers for around $50 (eg, search
for “Atten 858d”).
If you have one of these, simply
apply some solder paste to each pad,
place the IC on top, check its orientation carefully (pin 1 to upper left) and
then heat the IC and its leads until the
solder reflows. Be sure to continue
heating it long enough for the solder
on the thermal pad to melt also; you
can usually see fumes from the flux
escaping under the IC.
While we recommend this method
and it’s how we built this prototype, it
is possible to solder the chip by hand.
To do this, first place a small amount of
non-conductive (silicone-based) heatsink paste on the central pad and clean
the residue off the other pads. Then tin
one of the eight remaining pads, carefully place the IC in position and reheat
that pad while pressing down gently on
the IC until its lead contacts the PCB.
Once it’s in place, check the alignment, then solder the remaining seven
pins and add some solder to that first
pin to refresh the joint. Any solder
bridges between pins can then be easily
cleaned up using solder wick.
Note that it’s best to avoid moving
the IC by much during soldering, so
that the heatsink paste is not spread
around. Also, don’t clean the board
using any solvents as these are likely
to wash the paste away. We used the
hand-soldering method successfully
when building the original version
shown in our July issue.
One of the most common problems
with soldering an IC like this is that it’s
possible to get solder on a pin without
it actually flowing onto the corresponding pad. As a result, it’s best to check
all eight leads under a magnifying lamp
siliconchip.com.au
to make sure the solder fillets have
properly formed.
With REG1 in place, inductor L1 is
next. This is a little tricky due to its
high thermal inertia. There are various
methods but the simplest is to treat
it like a large chip component. This
involves adding a fair bit of solder to
one of the pads, enough that it’s visibly
built up, then heating this solder while
sliding L1 into place along the surface
of the PCB. It’s easiest to do this while
holding it with angled tweezers.
As soon as L1 hits the solder, some
of it will cool and solidify. You will
have to hold the iron in place while
L1 heats up and the solder will then
re-melt. Once that happens, you can
finish sliding L1 across into the correct position between the two pads.
You can then flow solder onto the
opposite pad.
Note that it’s best to do this immediately before L1 cools down. Note also
that it will take a little while to apply
enough heat to form a good joint.
You will then need to go back and
add some more solder and heat to the
initial pad, until you get a similarly
good fillet on that side; much of the
flux will have boiled off during the
initial soldering process.
Alternatively, use solder paste and a
hot air wand although you will probably need to hold the inductor in place
using steel tweezers or the hot air may
blow it out of position.
The rest of the components are easier
as they are substantially smaller but
you can use the same basic idea of
adding solder to one pad and then
sliding the part into place. The only
remaining polarised components are
D1 and TVS1; in each case the cathode
(striped) side goes towards the nearest
edge of the PCB.
Don’t get any of the different value
capacitors, resistors or diodes mixed
up. The resistors will have printed
value codes on the top but the other
components are likely to be unmarked
so you will have to remove them from
their packaging one at a time and immediately solder them to the PCB.
Bottom side components
Now you’ll need to flip the board
over but it won’t sit straight due to the
components sticking up, especially L1.
To solve this, get two heavy objects of
the same thickness (eg, timber off-cuts)
and space them apart on your bench so
that each end of the board can rest on
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, code
18107152, 16 x 51mm
1 6.8µH 3A RMS (3.9A saturation)
6x6mm SMD inductor (L1)
(Digi-Key ASPI-6045S-6R8MTCT-ND, element14 2309891)
1 2-way mini terminal block or pin
header (CON1) (optional)
1 dual stacked vertical type-A
USB socket, through-hole
mounting (CON2) (element14
1841169, Digi-Key ED2984ND) OR
2 vertical or horizontal type-A
USB sockets, through-hole
mounting (CON2) (element14
1696534/1654064,
Digi-Key UE27AC54100-ND/
UE27AE54100-ND)
1 50mm length of 20mm-diameter
heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 RT8299AZSP 3A switchmode
step-down regulator IC (REG1)
(element14 2392669, Digi-Key
1028-1295-1-ND)
1 MCP1703AT-5002-/CB or
MCP1703T-5002-/CB 5V
LDO regulator (REG2)
(element14 1439519, Digi-Key
MCP1703AT-5002E/CBCT-ND)
one or the other, with the components
hanging down in the gap in between.
Now solder IC1 in place. This is
similar to REG1 but doesn’t have a
thermal pad so you can simply tin one
pad, slide it into place while heating
that pad, then solder the rest of the
pins. Be sure that its pin 1 dot is orientated as shown in Fig.2 and clean
up any solder bridges between pins
using solder wick and a small amount
of flux paste.
Next fit REG2 and ZD1, which are
both in SOT-23 packages; don’t get
them mixed up. It’s then just a matter
of installing the remaining passives,
ie, four SMD resistors and two 1µF
ceramic capacitors where shown.
Connectors
The PCB has provision for a pin
header or terminal block as the power
input, or you can simply solder wires
to the two pads – if in doubt of the
polarity, check Fig.2.
For the outputs, there is space for
one or two on-board USB sockets,
either a vertical or horizontal type-A
1 MCP6541-(I/E)/SN micropower
comparator (IC1) (element14
1557429, Digi-Key MCP6541-E/
SN-ND)
1 3A 30V Schottky diode, DO-214AC
(D1) (element14 1843685, DigiKey SK33A-TPCT-ND)
1 SMAJ15A SMD 15V 400W
TVS or equivalent (TVS1)
(element14 1886343, Digi-Key
SMAJ15ALFCT-ND)
1 BZX84B16 16V 0.25W zener
diode (ZD1) (element14
2463473, Digi-Key BZX84B16FDICT-ND)
Capacitors (all SMD 3216/1206*)
2 22µF 16V X5R/X7R
2 10µF 25V X5R/X7R
2 1µF 50V X7R
2 100nF 50V X7R
1 100pF 50V C0G/NP0
Resistors (all SMD 3216/1206*,
1%, 0.25W)
1 10MΩ
1 1.43MΩ (element14 2139709,
Digi-Key RHM1.43MCJCT-ND)
1 1MΩ
2 1.3kΩ
1 6.8kΩ
1 100Ω
* 2012/0805-size parts are also
suitable
USB socket, or a vertical dual type-A
USB socket. However, as explained in
the July issue, many constructors will
prefer to run wires from the OUT+ and
OUT- pads to one or more surfacemounting USB sockets, depending on
the exact application.
There were also detailed instructions in the July 2015 issue on how
to install the unit in the overhead
binnacle in a typical modern motor
vehicle. We also explained back then
that, should you wish to use the PCB
as a general-purpose 3A step-down
regulator, you could change the 6.8kΩ
feedback resistor to obtain any output
voltage from 0.8V up to about 10V.
Should you wish to do this, the new
resistor value is simply calculated as:
R = (Vout ÷ 0.8 - 1) x 1.3kΩ
If you plug 5V into this formula you
will see that the result is very close to
the 6.8kΩ value specified.
Finally, check that the unit works,
ie, gives a 5V output for a 13-15V input, then encapsulate it in heatshrink
tubing to protect it and prevent short
SC
circuits.
September 2015 67
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