This is only a preview of the February 2016 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 39 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "Micromite LCD BackPack With Touch-Screen Display":
Items relevant to "Solar MPPT Charger & Lighting Controller, Pt.1":
Items relevant to "Raspberry Pi Temperature/Humidity/Pressure Monitor, Pt.2":
Items relevant to "Valve Stereo Preamplifier For HiFi Systems, Pt.2":
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Contents
Vol.29, No.2; February 2016
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
14 Defibrillators Save Lives
Designed to give the heart a high-voltage “whack”, Automatic External Defibrillators (AEDs) are now considered just as important as CPR in reviving sudden
cardiac arrest (SCA) victims – by Ross Tester
62 Crowd Funding: Kickstarter & “The Joey”
Have you got a great idea for an electronic product? You’ve designed it and it
works but how do you cover the cost of building the first batch? Kickstarter may
be the answer – by Steve OBrien & David Meiklejohn
Micromite LCD BackPack TouchScreen Display – Page 20.
78 Review: Keithley’s 2460 Sourcemeter
This versatile unit from Keithley is a programmable 100W DC power supply
and load combined with a 6.5-digit DMM. It can be controlled via its large touch
screen or from a PC via its USB input and can also be used to plot a wide range
of parameters for high-power semiconductor devices – by Jim Rowe
Pro jects To Build
20 Micromite LCD BackPack With Touch-Screen Display
Add a touch-screen LCD to your next project with the Micromite LCD BackPack.
It combines a colour touch-sensitive LCD panel with a low-cost 32-bit micro
controller running BASIC and packs an incredible amount of power at an
amazingly low price – by Geoff Graham
Versatile Solar MPPT Charge &
Lighting Controller, Pt.1 – Page 30.
30 Solar MPPT Charger & Lighting Controller, Pt.1
This MPPT charger/light controller will work with 12V or 24V solar panels to
charge a 12V or 24V lead-acid or lithium iron phosphate battery. You can then
use the battery to run 12V DC lighting or to power a 12V/24V 230VAC inverter
to run lighting or drive other loads – by John Clarke
54 Raspberry Pi Temperature/Humidity/Pressure Monitor, Pt.2
Second article shows you how to install the system in a clear acrylic case and
stream the sensor readings to a web-server so that you can access them over
the internet using a web browser – by Greg Swain
74 Valve Stereo Preamplifier For HiFi Systems, Pt.2
Last month, we described how our new stereo valve preamp works and how to
build the PCB. This month, we show how to house it in an eye-catching customdesigned case made from clear acrylic – by Nicholas Vinen
Special Columns
Accessing RPi Temperature, Humidity
& Pressure Readings Via The Internet,
Pt.2 – Page 54
38 Serviceman’s Log
Batteries need careful maintenance – by Dave Thompson
70 Circuit Notebook
(1) Digitally-Controlled Audio Preamplifier With Four Stereo Inputs; (2) Low Voltage Warning For A Lithium Cell; (3) Combined Games Timer & Electronic Dice
82 Vintage Radio
The 1948 Healing L502E 5-valve radio – by Graham Parslow
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
44 Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
88 SC Online Shop
90
94
95
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Valve Stereo Preamp For HiFi
Systems, Pt.2 – Page 74.
February 2016 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Kevin Poulter
Dave Thompson
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Recommended & maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
A defibrillator could save your life
or that of your friend
While some readers may find it a little odd that we
have a feature article on defibrillators this month, I
can assure them that it is a particularly apt topic for
SILICON CHIP. In the first place, we have quite a lot of
older readers and the longer you live, the more chance
there is that you might have a sudden cardiac arrest
(SCA). Mind you, young people are also at considerable risk of an SCA if they play strenuous sports or
engage in a heavy weight-lifting regimen at their local gym. But sadly, an
even more common risk factor for an SCA among people can be if they take
drugs, particularly ICE.
However, that is not the main reason why I decided to have this feature produced. In the last few months of 2015, I had tentatively decided that we would
purchase one these devices to install in our editorial office. Again, without going
into details, some of our own staff are moving into the risk profile (ahem) and
you never know. But the pressure of work intervened and we did not proceed.
And then just before Christmas, I was galvanised into action. It so happens
that I am a keen ballroom dancer and I do this several times a week. Inevitably, many dancers are fairly senior even though they are often very fit. I am
particularly keen on the Viennese Waltz and it is renowned as probably the
most strenuous dance. So much so that I have often thought that some of the
older dancers should not even attempt to do the Viennese, especially as there
is also the risk of a fall while you do it. Having recently had a fall while doing
that dance, I know how unpleasant it is. Fortunately, I was not hurt.
However, during a Viennese Waltz at a dance in the following week, someone did fall – and he fell heavily. I immediately knew that this was not good.
The dance was stopped and it was found that the fallen dancer was not only
unconscious but had no evidence of a pulse. Fortunately, there were a couple
of nurses present and they started CPR while an ambulance was called. Several
people frantically searched the venue to find if there was a defibrillator available but there was none. So we hoped that the ambulance would arrive with
one. But the ambulance took quite a while to arrive and when it did, it did not
have one. By this time, I knew that the outcome was unlikely to be good. The
man was declared dead about half an hour later.
This caused me serious pangs of guilt because I had recently raised the
topic with the organiser of the dance but again, nothing had been done. I shall
never know whether a defibrillator would have saved him but I resolved to
make sure that if someone does collapse at a dance in the future, there will be
a defibrillator on hand.
First, we have purchased a defibrillator for our office and I intend to take it
to the dances until such time as the respective venues have their own units.
Second, by the time you read this, I will have taken a 2-day first-aid course
to bring me up to date; it is many years since I did it. Think about your own
activities and consider whether you should also do a first-aid course. It is no
burden to have such knowledge and it may save a life in the future.
In the overall scheme of things, defibrillators are not expensive, at typically
less than $3000. Every workplace, sporting venue, hotel, club and most local
council venues should have them. You can help make this happen.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters
to the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and
has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask SILICON CHIP”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Reduced power consumption caused
mainly by government regulations
Given that the name David Maddison is not particularly common, one
is reluctantly forced to assume that
your frequent contributor of interesting articles and the writer of the letter
in the November 2015 issue, regarding
energy production and global warming (‘Absurd consequences of green
energy’, page 14), are one and the same.
Given how confused the letter was,
I first thought it was a controversystirring circulation booster but on
reading it more closely I realised that
it was serious, or at least trying to be.
Dr Maddison’s letter displays such
a misunderstanding of electricity supply and electricity economics issues
past and present, that it would take
a multi-page article to address all its
shortcomings.
Dr Maddison sounds like he’s
been talking to a grumpy long-retired
engineer from the State Electricity
Commission of Victoria. Sure, the old
post-war model of electricity industry
growth, where engineers planned additional generation capacity to meet
a steady increase in demand, worked
well for several decades after World
War 2. But times changed, Australia
matured beyond its post-war growth
Home hybrid solar
power systems
I note with great interest the Publisher’s hard-headed summary on
home hybrid solar systems in the
December 2015 issue. This seems to
be supported by other readers.
The Publisher’s analysis is the
same as my conclusion some 20
years ago, in my project paper for a
science major “Technology Studies”
which was a look at the effect of
technology on society past, present
and future. My paper also came to
a similar conclusion for industrialscale renewable energy systems that
were then currently available (hydro
power excepted) and I don’t think
4 Silicon Chip
phase, Commonwealth-State financial
relations evolved, and governments
of all persuasions reconsidered their
role in the Australian economy. The
good old times were good but like the
recent minerals boom, the good times
never last.
While lamenting the reduction in
electricity consumption in 2011, he
doesn’t actually address why electricity consumption fell. Rather than freezing in the dark due to high prices as he
alleges, research indicates that the biggest single factor was the cumulative
effect of energy efficiency regulations
covering household appliances and
new buildings. Restructuring in the
economy away from energy-intensive
industries such as aluminium smelting
was also a factor.
Perhaps it is Dr Maddison’s knowledge of economics that is lacking. A
good way to remedy this would be by
reading the articles of Ross Gittins in
the Sydney Morning Herald, starting
with www.smh.com.au/business/comment-and-analysis/watts-happeningelectricity-demand-falling-as-pricescontinue-to-rise-20140822-1072t4.
html
If Dr Maddison thinks the scientific
evidence on abating global warming
is simply defective, I hope he will
anything has changed since.
Having been trained in the power
generation industry in the UK, I was
also very interested in Dr David
Maddison’s excellent article on the
current state of power generation
technology in the December 2015
issue. I have enjoyed his series of
articles very much and again there
were no surprises mentioned since
my last study at university in 1996
except the extra complexity in cogeneration gas type systems.
David Maddison’s article has
emphasised why current power generation is so powerful; it produces
reliable quality energy in massive
quantities continuously and effi-
prepare an article on the subject for
a forthcoming issue of SILICON CHIP.
David Menere,
Curtin, ACT.
Comment: regardless of how you
analyse electricity demand and cost of
production in Australia or anywhere
else around the world, there is no
doubt that without heavy government
subsidies, solar and wind power would
not be viable.
Correction to diagram of
coal-fired power station
I enjoyed your very interesting article on Super-Critical and Ultra-SuperCritical Steam Power Stations (SILICON
CHIP, December 2015) but I would like
to point out an error in the key labelling of the diagram in Fig.2 on page 28.
No. 7 refers to a Boiler Feed Pump
but this would in fact be the De-aerator
Lift Pump and the Boiler Feed Pump
would be the one located between the
de-aerator and economiser. The deaerator must operate at a much lower
pressure than the boiler in order to
allow out-gassing of undesirable disciently. This is because of two factors, firstly the energy density/grade
of the fuel and secondly the ability
of the steam turbine to extract up to
50% of that energy.
The bottom line for the foreseeable
future as I see it is rather than install
solar panels and off-grid systems, it
is probably better to spend money
to insulate and improve the passive
thermal properties of a building. By
going passive first, this will reduce
the load characteristic of the house
and better match the load to the
characteristics of the renewable
energy supply.
Kelvin Jones,
Kingston, Tas.
siliconchip.com.au
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February 2016 5
Mailbag: continued
Many recent TV sets will
not decode MPEG4
On page 11 in the Mailbag pages
of the January 2016 issue, Barrie
Smith pointed out some issues with
the introduction of MPEG4 that will
lead to a significant cost for those of
us still using older TVs and STBs
that don’t decode it.
Of my four sets, only two will
decode it; a 32-inch Sanyo and my
PlayStation 3 and PlayTV tuner. A
42-inch AWA set bought in 2013
will not decode MPEG4; although
it indicates h.264, it also reports
“Invalid Format”. On investigation,
this TV appears to be a 2009 model
which was still on store shelves four
years on. Saying that recent model
TVs will decode MPEG 4 is therefore
fraught as some retailers are still selling older models.
A 14-inch set, badged Rank Arena,
behaves the same way when tuned
to MPEG4 channels. The little Rank
appears to be more recent, although
the distributor cannot be contacted.
The 1300 number on the back of the
set is disconnected and there is no
listing in the White Pages.
Fortunately, I have a small DSE
STB and a DVR which both decode
solved gases, yet be high enough in
pressure and head (height) to prevent
boiling of the feed-water in the suction of the Boiler Feed Pumps which
would cause destructive cavitation of
the pumps.
Dale Sills,
Bunbury, WA.
Nine Network
HD reception
I’m somewhat bemused with the
Nine Network’s return to simulcasting their flagship channel in HD in
late November 2015. Like just about
everybody else, I assumed that they
would be simply replacing the GEM
feed with a 1080i MPEG2 version of
their current 576i MPEG2 “Channel 9”
offering. In other words, reverting to
the way it was a few years back.
As many readers would know, more
than half the HDTVs in Australia can
only decode MPEG2! So, imagine
6 Silicon Chip
MPEG4, so the AWA and Rank can
be used on these signals.
A curious point here is that these
TVs indicate h.264 as if they support
MPEG4 yet also display the “Invalid
Format” message. This seems to
suggest that MPEG4 support was
intended, yet either not fully implemented or the specification has
changed since the firmware was developed. Sadly, there is no possibility
of a firmware update so the STBs are
the only real option.
On a separate topic, in the Vintage
Radio article on the Sony TR-63, the
author wrote “it also required a new
battery design that became the iconic
PP9”. That should have been “PP3”.
PP9 was a large block that provided
9V for larger transistor portables.
PP3 is a UK/European designation;
the same battery used to be known
as “216” in Australia.
Incidentally, I’m using the TR63 circuit to fault-find a 1970s AM
car radio, as the PA stage is almost
identical. There is gross distortion
which appears due to failure of the
output pair. Hopefully, a new pair
will restore it to full working order.
Wenlock Burton, VK3YWB,
Darley, Vic.
my surprise when I tuned my 3-yearold 47-inch LED TV to Ch90 and got
nothing, except the blue bar across
the bottom the screen saying “9 HD”
and “H264” (commonly known as
MPEG4), followed by a Black-Screenof-Death with the terse notice: “Unsupported Format”.
Nine’s website (as well as a lot of
other sites) simply suggests that your
TV “might need re-tuning”! Well, no
amount of re-tuning is going to insert
the amount of processing grunt needed
to decode MPEG4 (at least, not in high
definition or even standard definition!)
if the receiver chipset was never designed for it.
It’s not a total loss, because all the
set-top boxes I have receive H264 just
fine and I’m in the habit of using them
instead of the sets’ inbuilt tuners any
way, simply because they generally
work better and have a much better
EPG system (they need to, because they
can also record onto USB).
Nobody really loses out, because
Ch9 SD is still there the same as before
and GEM is now available in SD and
it rarely took advantage of the resolution available anyway. (When doing
a recording from GEM, the recorded
bit-rate was sometimes actually lower
than from recording an SD channel!)
But still, what were they thinking?
The interesting thing is that the Seven
Network also have an H264 service
called “Racing.com” on 78. However,
they didn’t give it any publicity at all
and even some (horse) racing enthusiasts I know weren’t aware of it until
I mentioned it.
Keith Walters,
Riverstone, NSW.
UPS inverter not suitable
for continuous use
With regard to the letter on hybrid
solar inverters on page 100 of the December 2015 issue, in the Ask SILICON
CHIP, I would point out that using an
inverter from a standby UPS (rather
than an on-line UPS) in this role isn’t
a good idea. These are designed for
occasional operation for brief periods,
not long-term use.
Typical standby UPS inverters only
have to operate for a few minutes at
their full rated power before they’ve
drained the batteries, so they’re inherently self-limiting (they’ll run longer at
lower loads but then they’re running at
a fraction of their rated power). Running one of these inverters for time
periods longer than they’re designed
for can cause problems, typically due
to overheating.
The same comment goes for creating
a home-brew extended run-time UPS.
By wiring in additional batteries, you
would probably be running the inverter somewhat outside its intended
parameters.
Peter Gutmann,
Bayview, Auckland, NZ.
Daily electricity charges
relevant in NZ
The Publisher’s Letter in the October
2015 issue expressing (justifiable) outrage over the daily “service” charge has
a parallel relevance to NZ electricity
consumers, albeit we have legislative
separation between the electricity retailer and the electricity distribution
siliconchip.com.au
companies – the former collect the
daily charge on behalf of the latter.
You would be goggle-eyed to learn
what the distribution companies do
with their over-the-top “profits” –
including investing in wineries, outbidding rivals by paying five(!) times
the market price for other electricity
assets. Consumers are right to be angry but be as much concerned as to
what they’re actually doing with the
revenue as much as the charge itself.
And as usual, Dr David Maddison
has delivered yet another interesting
article on computational photography
however there was one notable omission, glaringly conspicuous by its absence: the field of spherically projected
convex panoramic-image digital photography, popularly used in security
video cameras and as a photographic
art-form in itself in which the spherically distorted image is “unwrapped”
to 2-D in software.
Have a look at the following link as
but one example: www.diatrope.com/
stork/Usamietal.pdf
Andre Rousseau,
Papakura, NZ.
Adding FM to
an AM radio
With reference to the letter in “Ask
SILICON CHIP” for January 2016, from
reader B. S., wanting information or a
project to add FM to his AM receiver,
I would like to comment as follows.
In the April 2014 issue of the HRSA
magazine “Radio Waves” I described
how I added a module from Nostalgic
Wireless to my Philips 122 to achieve
this result. This is an Australian manufactured product which was designed
for converting car radios.
If you can obtain a copy of the article from the HRSA you will see it was
particularly easy. My Philips has no
external signs of the addition other
than a small switch and an extra wire
out the back to provide an antenna
connection to the FM stage.
At my home, the FM comes in at
about the same strength as the AM
stations. There may be some antenna
issues in the Sydney area but if you
can receive FM at your location this
add-on will work.
Bob Forbes,
Forest Hill, Vic.
Vintage radio
model correction
The Fisk Radiola Model 92, featured in the Vintage Radio pages
of the October 2015 issue, is in
fact a Model 92X. While the valve
line-up is the same as the 92, the
differences are exactly what the
author of the article found when
restoring the set.
These differences are the 325Ω
cathode resistor and the inclusion
of a 25µF electrolytic capacitor
between the volume pot wiper &
earth. The service manual for the
92X can be found at Kevin Chant’s
site at www.kevinchant.com/
uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/awa _
models_92y_84y_92x_and_84x.
pdf
Kent Martin,
West Footscray, Vic.
Military electronics had
SMDs in the 1960s
I have just been reading your November 2015 issue of SILICON CHIP and
a couple of your Mailbag letters caught
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February 2016 7
Mailbag: continued
In-dash GPS navigation
leaves much to be desired
It looks like the humble GPS unit
is continuing to cop a fair amount
of flak in the Mailbag pages. I would
like to put my two cents’ worth in,
with a gripe about in-built GPS units
in cars.
You might think that great big
screen in the centre of the dash
would be much better than the tiny
little Garmin I have sitting above it
but that’s not necessarily so. The
Garmin unit has free updates for
life. My Mitsubishi dealer couldn’t
tell me how much an update of the
maps would be but thought in excess
of $200 seemed about the industry
average.
Surely, a top of the line car would
have the maps updated every time
it goes in for service. If Garmin and
many others can include updates for
$150, why can’t the car companies
do it for a $30,000 plus vehicle?
However, that is not the worst of it
by a long way.
As with all of these devices, the
Mitsubishi unit can be programmed
to choose routes with different
characteristics. The problem is that
once a route has been planned, the
my eye. The first is titled “A hot-air
rework station is a boon for SMDs”,
by Mike Flor.
Mike states that he has worked with
SMDs since their inception in the late
1970s. In fact, SMD technology was
pretty well established in military electronics by then, having started around
the mid-to-late 1960s.
I experienced SMDs initially when
the RAN introduced the first batch of
A4G Skyhawks in 1968. SMDs were
extensively used in one of the electronic systems. While it caused us to
rethink the repair tools and techniques
required, it also turned out that SMD
devices were extremely reliable and
rarely needed replacing.
My other comment concerns the
letter “DIY off-grid solar system”, from
Robert Hatvani. Robert asks for an article on a design for a system. I hope
he does not mean how to design one.
8 Silicon Chip
Mitsubishi will not deviate from it.
If the driver makes a mistake or the
prerogative of a human is exercised
and the box’s instruction is not followed, the stupid thing persists in
trying to convince one to return to
where the “error” occurred.
I don’t know how long it will keep
it up because it becomes so annoying that it would get Leo Simpson’s
removal treatment – except for the
hole it would leave in the dash; it
has to be turned off.
The little man inside the Garmin
simply seems to say, “OK, we’re off
track here, let’s recalculate from
here to the boss’s destination” and
all is well.
My advice is to buy the car you like
but if it has GPS, go to the nearest
electronics store and spend an extra
$150 and get one that might not get
you killed or lost.
Graeme Burgin,
Ararat, Vic.
Comment: after-market GPS units
have the further advantage that they
indicate actual speed; in-dash units
are prevented from doing this. And
since so many new cars have internet
communication, why can’t updates
be automatic?
I have done some in-depth research
on this myself and have discovered
that there is a considerable amount
of detail on the web already. Much of
it at present recommends to not take
an off-grid approach as yet, until the
battery technology is more advanced.
I would also ask Robert what is his
fall-back position with off-grid in the
event he has a system or equipment
failure?
On a separate but related note, as a
recently retired engineer, I am finding
the articles and correspondence on
renewable energy fascinating and to a
large degree frustrating. I find it hard
to comprehend the level of ignorance
in this country from people who obviously have little or no knowledge
of electrical power generation in any
of its forms, yet insist on providing
uneducated comment.
Unfortunately, they seem to be aided
and abetted in this country by many of
the renewable industry bodies. Vested
interests at work, I guess.
Rod Warner,
Stirling, ACT.
Set-and-forget
audio mixer
I noticed in the December 2015 issue
of your great magazine, in the “Ask
SILICON CHIP” section, that a reader, Y.
B., was looking for a simple set-andforget mixer with preset gain controls
for four inputs.
Well, for several years I have, for
such a purpose, very successfully
used the mixer circuit of mine that you
published in the August 2013 issue
in the “Circuit Notebook” pages – see
www.siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2013/
August/Extendable+Mixer+Circuit
In my case, I have five inputs at
different levels all into one line input
socket, using preset potentiometers
at the respective inputs. The circuit
shows only one channel, so it needs
to be duplicated for stereo. Also, only
three inputs are shown but more can
be added as described. Perhaps this
would be useful for Mr Y. B.
Christopher Ross,
Tuebingen, Germany.
Refining the
SiDRADIO
I recently built a SiDRADIO as described in the October 2013 issue of
SILICON CHIP. While it all went together
very well, initial testing indicated that
there were a few problems.
In particular, the voltage from the
MC34063 voltage step-up converter
was collapsing to less than 10V when
the RF gain knob was advanced and
there was significant breakthrough
of the 80-odd kHz switching of the
voltage step-up converter, leading to
spurious peaks in the spectrum either
side of the actual one (this being a serious problem on the lower frequency
bands). Finally, the front-end coils
were not covering the specified tuning ranges.
The first of these was due to the fact
that the BF998 FET draws over 10mA
as the voltage on its G2 is increased
and the MC34063 step-up converter
was current limiting at about 6mA.
This current limit is set by the 4.7Ω
resistor connected between pins 6
siliconchip.com.au
Invest 2 minutes
and you‘ll never
look back.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 9
Mailbag: continued
Air-conditioning stand-by
power can be excessive
My wife and I purchased two
inverter split system reverse cycle
air-conditioners, one about three
years ago and the other a year ago.
Dale Silver, a contributor to the
magazine “Renew”, pointed out
that these air-conditioners, although
efficient when actually operating,
draw considerable standby current
when switched off using the remote
control.
I decided to check the standby
current of our air-conditioners, a
7.1/8kW cooling/heating unit and a
2.5/3.2kW cooling/heating unit. The
larger unit draws around 190W and
the smaller around 60W, on a summer day with temperatures in the
high 20s. I checked this by using a
current clamp meter and a direct inline amp meter (RMS reading) so that
I had a reasonably accurate figure.
This standby power usage equates
to around 6kWh per day. It is claimed
that the power is used to heat the
compressor oil but surely with temperatures around the high 20s, this is
& 7. Decreasing it to 2.2Ω solved the
problem.
The breakthrough of the 80kHz
switching of the voltage step-up converter took a little longer to track down.
Having eliminated any ripple on the
12.5V as a possible cause, it turned
out to be mainly due to the ripple it
was causing on the 5V line and also
some coupling into the RF circuits via
the earths.
not required. The units are from two
different mainstream manufacturers
and Dale Silver’s air-conditioner
is from another manufacturer, so
it is endemic with this type of airconditioner.
Surely this is not the way to go
when we are urged to reduce our
use of resources? Plus, it is costing
thousands of users many hundreds
of dollars and in our case, some $700
for a year’s worth of standby power.
Most electronic devices these days
draw under a watt of standby power.
I wonder what the manufacturers
have to say?
Rodney Champness,
Mooroopna, Vic.
Comment: while very low standby
power should be a requirement for
all air-conditioners, it should be possible to turn them off completely with
a separate switch. This is desirable
both to avoid high standing charges
and also to enable isolation during
thunderstorms. This is doubly important with 3-phase air-conditioners
since their motors can be damaged
if one mains phase is lost.
The ripple was all but eliminated
by inserting a filter between the 5V
line and the input of the MC34063.
The filter comprised a 500µH choke
wound on a toroid (same as used in
L5) followed by a 100µF 16v electrolytic in parallel with a 1µF chip
capacitor. These were placed right at
the MC34063 as shown in the attached
photo, the short trace between the
on-board 1µF chip capacitor and the
4.7Ω (now 2.2Ω) resistor having been
severed.
It also took a bit of trial and error
to minimise the coupling through
the earths but a solution was finally
found by isolating the voltage step-up
converter circuitry from the main earth
plane, by cutting the earth plane copper on both sides of the circuit board
as also shown in the photo. This leaves
just a single earth connection via the
thin copper trace that runs alongside
the dongle and reduced the spurious
peaks in the spectrum down into the
noise level.
This left just the front end-tuning
problem. While I wound all the coils
in accordance with the instructions in
the SILICON CHIP article, I found their
measured inductances for all except L4
to be a long way from those indicated
on the circuit diagram, thus causing
the tuning problem. After rewinding
L1, L2 & L3, I managed to get nearly
contiguous frequency coverage from
280kHz to 24MHz but well short of
the 100kHz – 35MHz claimed in the
article.
The reason for this is as follows. In
isolation, C1 had a minimum capacitance of about 5pF per section (trimmer plates fully out) but when in the
circuit, this rose to about 25pF in total
(with the link to S2b disconnected).
This increase was due to the various
traces on the circuit board and the
small capacitance of G1 of the BF998
FET. This severely limited the tuning
range available from C1 at high frequencies, necessitating a compression
of the overall tuning range.
With all these changes, the converter
now works very well considering its
fairly simple design and lack of comprehensive filtering at the RF input,
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10 Silicon Chip
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Above: the modified PCB and added
circuitry inside the SiDRADIO.
at the output of the 125MHz oscillator and between the converter circuit
and dongle.
I suppose one might ask why bother
to build it at all when true communications-grade HF up-converters are available at no greater cost (eg, the NooElec
Ham It Up converter available from a
number of sources for around $55).
For me the answer is in the pleasure of
building things and tweaking them for
maximum performance. To this end,
SILICON CHIP provides an incredible
resource. Long may it continue!
Finally, some links on the topic that
I found interesting:
Active antennas:
(1) www.g8jnj.net/activeantennas.
htm
(2) http://dl1dbc.net/SAQ/Mwhip/
Article_pa0rdt-Mini-Whip_English.
pdf
(3) www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Whipactive-antenna-kit
Up Converters & shortwave:
(1) http://retrovoltage.com/2012/09/
14/round-up-of-rtlsdr-upconverterchoices/
(2) www.short-wave.info/index.php
Paul Rossiter,
Applecross, WA.
Lundahl transformer
caption correction
Thank you very much for the nice review article about Lundahl Transformers on pages 46 & 47 in the December
2015 issue. As a small company based
in Sweden, we are very pleased to read
an article about us published in the
Antipodes.
We would, however, like to make a
small correction regarding transformer
core types. In the text underneath a picture on page 47, C-cores are mentioned.
But the picture actually shows how
siliconchip.com.au
laminations are inserted in a mu-metal
lamination core.
For our small audio transformers we
use three different core types. Siliconiron C-cores (manufactured in house)
are mostly used in line output transformers. Uncut amorphous cores (as in
the cut-away picture) are used in input
and video transformers. Mu-metal lamination cores are the most commonly
used cores in pro audio types, such as
microphone transformers and in transformers for splitting and for line input.
If in doubt regarding which core
type or transformer type to choose for
your project, please do not hesitate to
contact CDA Pro Audio (www.cdaproaudio.com) for support.
Per Lundahl Norrtälje,
Sweden.
Request for a digital
audio player project
The so-called “MP3” player has
almost completely died out in favour
of smart-phones but there now seems
to be a resurgence of stand-alone audio
players or DAPs at the high end of the
market, from companies like FIIO,
iBasso, Cayin, HiFiMan, Sony etc,
starting at around the $500 mark and
going up to, frankly, quite ridiculous
prices in the many thousands.
These players aim to appeal to
hifi enthusiasts and so called “audiophiles”, with up to 192kHz/24bit
decoding, very low distortion etc.
I was going to suggest a SILICON CHIP
DAP – an entire player – as a project.
But on reflection, it seems to me that
the software to control the device
would be far too time-consuming and
expensive for you to develop in-house.
There is complete DAP open-source
software available from Rockbox
(www.rockbox.org) that runs on ARM
processors but this would have to be
adapted to run on any specific device,
and even that is likely to be a timeconsuming and expensive process.
Still it would be wonderful to one day
be able to build a SILICON CHIP DAP.
I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
However, most of these high-end
DAPs feature digital outputs of the
SPDIF variety, to allow connection
to portable lithium battery-powered
DAC/headphone amplifiers which
these high-end DAP companies also
sell.
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February 2016 11
Mailbag: continued
LED lamp
reliability question
Like most people today, when
a domestic lighting lamp fails, I
replace it with a modern type, the
choice being between a compact
fluorescent (CFL) or LED unit.
Frankly, a CFL is a half-hearted
change but it does have the virtue of
being a simple plug-in replacement
without an intervening transformer,
so I was tempted. Then I saw in one
store some traditionally-shaped
bulbs claiming to be LED and boasting nominal long lives, such as
35,000 hours. Sounds good I thought
but the rest of this story is based on
two examples that seriously let down
the side:
(1) a 6W Energy/35W/400 Lumens/
Light 2700K lasted eight months or
about 1440 hours use; and
(2) a 10W Energy/60W/806 Lumens/
Light 2800K lasted 28 months or
about 5000 hours.
In both, the intended power source
is (as labelled) 220-240V/50Hz. I
won’t name the brand but both are
from the same Chinese manufacturer.
The bulbs were not in vacuum and
the things came apart easily after
cracking same. In both cases, the
failure was in the SMPS part of the
device, ie, no output voltage to the
LEDs. I did not pursue the cause of
the SMPS failure because the only
salvageable part was the LED assembly. I did however note the rating of
the electrolytic capacitor across the
output which was 50V.
In the first unit, there were 12 LEDs
mounted on a 2mm thick aluminium
disc of 40mm diameter. With only
SILICON CHIP has already produced
several high-end DAC projects, so I
wondered about the possibility of a
SILICON CHIP portable DAC/headphone
amplifier project. I envisage it as having the emphasis on very high quality
sound rather than portability, so keeping it down to a very small or light form
factor would not be a high priority.
Many of these high-end DAPs are
quite large and relatively heavy, and
clearly people who value very high
12 Silicon Chip
two leads emerging from it, it took
only moments to connect the bench
DC power supply and crank it up
slowly, to be rewarded by a bright
glow.
There was no current drawn at
voltages below 15.5V but at 15.8V, it
drew 10mA (about 1.32V/per LED);
at 16.15V it was 27.5mA and at 17.4V
80mA (about 1.45V/per LED). At
this point I decided that, heatsink
or no, I needed to determine what
current the manufacturer intended
it to run at.
Since a minimum of nearly 16V
was required to cause current to flow,
there seems little doubt that the 12
LEDs are simply strung in series. As
you would expect, the brightness
increased in step with the voltage/
current increase but I had no way
of measuring the effective Lumens,
so I tried to reason it out as follows:
Since the labelling claims 6W <at>
240VAC, then 6 ÷ 240VAC must be in
the ball-park, ie, around 25mA . This
sounds reasonable but it made me
wonder how the other lamp achieved
its higher rating. The second unit
turned out to have 20 LEDs on an
identical aluminium disc to that of
the 12-LED unit, supplied from a
similar 50V electrolytic capacitor.
In this case, there was no current
drawn below 24V and at 25.4V it
drew 10mA (about 1.27V per LED);
at 25.8V it drew 25mA and at 27.1V
it drew 80mA (about 1.36V per LED).
Applying the same calculation
as above to estimate the intended
current in this unit gives 10 ÷ 240 =
42mA. To my eyes, the LEDs seem
identical in both units, so it seems
sound quality are prepared to make
sacrifices in terms of size and weight.
It would have a copper SPDIF input
and a standard headphone jack output
or perhaps two, and a DC input socket
for charging.
Apart from an on-off switch, I imagine that’s all that’s needed. There
would be no need for any kind of
display, although it might be nice to
have a couple of LEDs to indicate the
nature of the input signal, eg, the sam-
the higher-rated unit not only has
more LEDs involved but they are
also run harder.
In short, I suggest that these
components might be worth scavenging. True, the required voltages
are a bit outside the range of the
most frequently “disposed of by the
road-side” plugpacks. However, I
unearthed from my stock a 32V 1.2A
supply from just such a source. For
the 20-LED unit, this requires only
a 270Ω series resistor to drop 6.8V <at>
25mA. The wasted power is a mere
169mW (<0.2W).
Brian Critchley,
Elanora, NSW.
ple rate and bit depth. It would also be
nice if the project allowed the use of a
commonly-available standard lithium
battery size, such as one of the standardised circular cells (18650) as used
in the Pono Player, allowing batteries
to be replaced without having to throw
the entire device in the bin, as seems
common with all the commerciallyavailable devices.
Phil Taylor,
SC
Casula, NSW.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 13
Defibrillators
Save Lives
CPR has long been considered the most
important first-aid skill you could learn.
Arguably it still is – but using an Automated
External Defibrillator (AED), is becoming just
as important. It can save many more lives!
Photo
courtesy
First Aid Plus
by Ross Tester
I
f we told you that performing CPR (Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation,
or heart-lung resuscitation) on someone who has suffered sudden
cardiac arrest, (SCA) is successful in only about 5-7% of cases, you’d
probably be surprised.
But you’d probably be even more surprised to learn that adding a defibrillator and CPR training shoots that success rate up to around 60%
(some authorities say even higher).
The reason is pretty simple: an SCA usually (though not always)
doesn’t just stop the heart pumping blood, often it “scrambles” the
electrical signals in the heart so that it does not rhythmically beat, even
if it wants to (and it does – the heart really wants to start rhythmically
beating again). An ECG of someone who has effectively died perhaps
half an hour before will sometimes show tiny pulses, albeit too small to
be of any use, as the heart valiantly tries to get going again).
What happens is that the confused electrical signals send the heart into
ventricular fibrillation, where it simply “quivers” rather than pumping
blood through its four chambers. Little or no vital oxygen-rich
blood gets to the heart and brain and within
a few minutes, the cells become
damaged. A few min-
14 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Why publish this in SILICON CHIP?
If you’re wondering why we have published this feature in what is
primarily an electronics magazine, it’s for three very good reasons.
(1) Medical Electronics is a fascinating field that not too many
know about.
Most readers would have heard of defibrillators but we believe
that relatively few would know what they are actually used for (apart
from the “Packer Whacker” mentioned elsewhere), how they’re
used or their limitations. Indeed, most readers’ experience would
be the totally false movie and TV show images of a doctor looking
at a flat line on an ECG monitor, yelling “clear” and delivering a
shock which makes the patient almost jump off the bed!
As you read this story, you will begin to understand that defibrillators are highly sophisticated devices which these days do far
more than shock someone back to life after a heart attack (which,
by the way, they virtually never do unless that is followed by SCA
or sudden cardiac arrest!).
utes more and the damage becomes permanent and death
follows not long after.
The experts tell us that the first three to five minutes
are vital – that’s how long we have before damage starts
to occur. After ten minutes, assuming the victim isn’t
also suffering from hypothermia, or reduced temperature,
permanent damage is done. Hypothermia slows down the
damage but damage is still inevitable in time.
2: SILICON CHIP readership is overwhelmingy those who just might
need a defibrillator . . .
Whether they are in the position of first-on-the-scene after
someone has suffered a SCA or they are the person needing one,
we hope that this feature might open a few eyes to the appropriate
use of AEDs, now that they are to be found in many public buildings, offices and so on.
3: This is arguably the most important reason!
We hope that this article might encourage business owners and
managers to buy a defibrillator for their workplace (just as we have
now done at SILICON CHIP).
We list several defibrillators on page 19 – there are many more.
Today’s Public-Access AEDs are designed for totally novice and
untrained use – they tell you what to do and how to do it. Most are
relatively inexpensive these days (and tax deductible).
Just imagine how you would feel if someone in your office/factory/etc died because you hadn’t taken that simple step.
What’s wrong with CPR?
Absolutely nothing . . . everyone should learn it. CPR
is vital in the link to a successful resuscitation outcome,
providing oxygenated blood to the heart and brain. CPR
simply keeps the blood flowing where the heart isn’t functioning or not functioning properly.
The actions of the first aider repeatedly and rapidly
pushing down on the chest forces blood through the lungs
Doing it (almost!) for real: Manly Life Saving Club members Max Moon and Jonathan Curulli, under the watchful eye of
assessor Joe Mastrangelo, undertaking their AED qualification, part of Surf Life Saving’s Advanced Resuscitation Techniques
Certificate. The difference between this and the real thing is they’re using a “trainer” AED, obviously on a dummy!
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 15
“Heart Attack” (MI; Myocardial Infarction) vs SCA (Sudden Cardiac Arrest)
A Sudden Cardiac Arrest (SCA), which can be defibrillated,
is quite different to a “heart attack”, more properly known as a
Myocardial Infarction (MI), which can’t.
Think of SCA as an “electrical problem” and MI as a “plumbing
problem”. SCA prevents the heart from beating due to its electrical signals being scrambled, while MI is something physical (for
example a blood clot or other blockage) in the arteries which
prevents blood flow to the heart itself.
The heart is a complex of nerves and muscles in their own right;
an MI will usually cause nerve and muscle damage when they are
starved of oxygen but will not necessarily be fatal if treated within
a reasonable time. Hence MI patients receive “bypasses” and
“stents” to allow blood to flow around or through a blocked area.
(to pick up oxygen) and to the heart and brain (especially),
along with the other organs of the body.
There are two problems with this: first of all, CPR is incredibly tiring for the person administering it; so much so
that the average person is lucky to effectively compress the
heart for two minutes. When you train in CPR, you train to
be able to swap with new people to keep going.
The rule for administering CPR is that it should be continued for as long as the first aider(s) is/are physically able
to continue, or until medical assistance arrives. Victims
have been reported to have recovered after more than an
hour of CPR – just so long as it is continued with no pauses.
Indeed, the record (for someone also suffering severe
hypothermia [low body temperature]) is a whopping six
hours, 30 minutes. Hypothermia appears to slow down the
onset of brain and other tissue damage.
(The opposite is also true, by the way – someone who is
overheated [hyperthermia] will tend to suffer organ damage
faster than someone who is cool.)
Good CPR is the only effective method of changing “fine
VF” (flatline) to “coarse VF”, which is a shockable rhythm.
However CPR will not stop VF – the quivering heart
needs an electrical shock to effectively stop the scrambling,
On the other hand an SCA if not treated immediately (<5 minutes)
will almost always be fatal .
An MI may in some cases may trigger an SCA but this is not usual.
As far as the first-aider is concerned, CPR, (preferably with
a defibrillator) is the only immediate means of treating an SCA,
whereas the usual treatment for MI is to sit the patient up and call
for medical help.
CPR must never be performed on a conscious (ie, MI) patient;
indeed modern defibs will not allow you to administer a shock if it
detects that a true pulse is present.
In all cases, MI or SCA, medical help should be summoned
immediately. If you are by yourself, do not stop CPR but yell out
until someone else is able to help
so that it can start it beating again in a “sinus” rhythm.
Enter the defibrillator
Believe it or not, the defibrillator’s job is to stop the heart.
It supplies a large shock current, directly across the heart,
to “freeze” the muscles and so stop it fibrillating. Then, the
heart may start beating properly of its own accord.
Even if it doesn’t, continuing CPR once the heart is
no longer fibrillating gives the victim the best chance of
survival.
Recent medical research suggests that the first shock is
the most important. Until now, most defibs “ramp up” the
shock in the belief that higher charges may damage the
heart. However, some manufacturers have now switched
over to delivering a large shock first up.
How much charge?
This depends a lot on the manufacturer and how their
waveform is set up. This, in turn, is determined by several
factors, not the least being the impedance between the pads
(ie, across the heart).
Early AEDs used a “monophasic” waveform – one where
the current went in one direction only. The recommended
charge for these was 360J for adult patients
(Joules = voltage x current x time). The
charge was delivered in a very short time
– a couple of milliseconds or so – meaning
that the other components, voltage and cur-
A defibrillator “Trainer”, such as being
used in the photo overleaf, looks and
works like a “proper” defib – except for
the vital detail that it cannot supply the
shock. The trainer gives the same prompts
as a real AED, including the spoken
instructions. It is clearly labelled as a
training device and the pads (also labelled
as training electrodes) can be used over
and over, unlike the real thing. This
trainer is from Cardac Science.
At right is the real defibrillator – notice
the difference? Apart from not having
the “Trainer” and “Not for Human Use”
labels, there isn’t one you can see.
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
rent, were rather high. Most worked on a voltage between
about 500V and 2000V DC.
Further research showed that a “biphasic” waveform,
where the current travelled in both directions, was just as
effective but with simpler circuitry, smaller battery and
lower weight. These days, the vast majority of AEDs which
you come across will be biphasic.
The advantage of biphasic waveforms is that the current can
be lower than monophasic, resulting in less potential damage
to the heart. And with lower power, there are fewer burns and
lower battery use. Not only that, the first shock success rate of
a biphasic machine is claimed to increase from 60% to 90%.
A typical AED might deliver 200 (or more) joules, with
a current of perhaps 30A or so delivered over 10ms.
The AED also analyses the “dryness” of the skin. With
drowning victims, the first aider is taught to dry the skin
before applying the pads. This is to both help the pads
“stick” and increase the impedance, so the AED can operate more efficiently.
There is a shock hazard when the shock is delivered,
so the first aider is also taught to ensure that no-one is in
contact with the victim (his/herself included!).
Note that manufacturers arrange delivery of their charges
differently so comparing one with another is not practical
nor accurate – none has been demonstrated to be superior
to another.
How do they work?
Public-access defibrillators (ie, those mounted in public areas and designed to be available to anyone, even
untrained) all give specific, clear instructions, including
where and how to place the pads. Apart from infants,
the location is almost invariably on the upper right chest
and the lower left side – this gives the best possible path
through the heart.
Infants usually have the pads placed front and back
over the heart.
Pacemakers and implanted defibs?
While it is quite possible that an external defibrillator will
“fry” the electronics in an implanted pacemaker or
defibrillator, the
Mr Bean’s Defibrillator
“Mr Bean Rides Again”
Tiger Aspect Productions
(1992)
You must have seen that episode of “Mr Bean” where Rowan
Atkinson attempts to deliver resuscitation to a man in the street
using a pair of jumper leads connected to a power pole.
Is it art imitates life or life imitates art? We’re not sure, but this
has some (OK, miniscule!) factual historical basis: early defibrillators (in hospital operating theatres) actually used 300-1000V
AC derived from a step-up transformer connected to the mains,
with research funded by the Edison Power Company!
The first successful use on a human (a 14-year-old boy being
operated on for a congenital chest defect) was in 1947 by Claude
Beck, professor of surgery at Case Western Reserve University
in Cleveland, Ohio. The boy’s chest was surgically opened and
manual cardiac massage was undertaken for 45 minutes before the
defibrillator arrived. Beck used paddles on either side of the heart.
Closed-chest defibrillation, using 100-150ms shocks <at> >1000V
AC, was pioneered in the USSR in the mid-1950s, while portable
defibrillators were first used in the late 1950s and early 1960s.
Today’s defibrillators deliver a very much shorter shock.
By the way, you can see the episode of “Mr Bean Rides Again”
on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEwXQE5kh2SE
experts all say to ignore them.
If the victim is in ventricular fibrillation (VF), it’s obvious that an implanted defib is not doing its job. And a
pacemaker can’t work in VF anyway . . . the alternative is
to let the victim die.
Here’s the procedure
If you’ve done a first aid course, you’ll remember the
mnenonic
DRS ABCD
You may also remember that this stands for Danger,
Response, Send for Help, Airway, Breathing, Circulation
and Defibrillation.
The very latest teaching is much simplified and reflects
The “Packer Whacker”
25 years ago, media tycoon Kerry Packer suffered an SCA
while playing polo – and the one ambulance in NSW which
had a defibrillator on board happened to be the one which was
standing by for any injuries during the polo match.
Packer was revived using that defibrillator and he subsequently
donated enough money to the NSW Ambulance Service to equip
every ambulance with a defibrillator. These earned the nickname
“Packer Whackers” after their famous benefactor.
Packer died on Boxing Day, 2005, not from heart disease but
from kidney failure.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 17
the expert guidance that heart compressions are all-important to keep the
blood flowing; much more so than the
older routine, which experience has
shown that most people, even trained
first-aiders, can get wrong in the panic
of a “real” emergency.
But before anything else, as with
all first aid, you need to get someone
reliable to call for medical help (ie, an
ambulance).
The latest mnenonic, at least overseas (but could change here) is simply
CAB
This stands for Compressions, Airway and Breathing.
This calls for compressions to be
commenced as soon as no “signs of
life” are detected. These signs have
also been simplified – you no longer
have to feel for a pulse (that’s the main
thing lay people got wrong) but simply
establish that the victim is both unconscious and is not breathing.
Of course, you still need to ensure
the victim (and you!) are in no danger
and that the airway is clear but it is
now considered imperative to start
compressions as soon as possible – ie,
immediately!
While you’re doing this, have someone else set up the defibrillator.
The routine is:
1: Turn on the defibrillator – it will
go through a self-checking routine and
tell you when it’s ready to go (usually
only 5-10 seconds).
2: Attach the pads to the patient,
where shown by diagrams on the
defibrillator.
You will almost certainly need to
remove upper body clothing, wetsuits,
(most defibs contain a pair of scissors
to make this as quick as possible).
If the victim is a man with a very
hairy chest, use the shaver provided
to remove hair under the pad positions. If the victim is a female with
an underwire bra, this should also be
removed to eliminate any short circuit
possibility.
3: Plug in the pad leads to the defibrillator.
Two models of AED from the same company, the HeartOn A10 on the left and
the A15 on the right. The main difference is that the A15 caters for both adult
and child defibrillation without changing pads (courtesy APL Healthcare).
4: Follow the prompts that the defibrillator gives you (almost all these
days are spoken words).
It will tell you to do several things:
briefly stop CPR while it “analyses”
the electrical signals coming from the
heart via the pads.
It will probably tell you to continue
CPR, at the rate of 30 compressions
to two breaths, until it gives the next
instruction.
If it wants to deliver a shock, it will
tell you. Fully automatic defibs say
something like “stand clear. Delivering shock in 3-2-1 (seconds)”. Manual
defibs will tell you to “Shock now –
press red button”.
Even if you don’t know how to
perform CPR, in some cases the AED
will tell you – either by illustrations or
by voice commands. Some advanced
models will even tell you if your
compressions aren’t deep enough or
too slow.
Make sure that no-one is touching
the victim during analysis or shock
– the latter for obvious reasons; the
former because the minute electrical
signals in some else’s body may in fact
interfere with what the AED is trying
to read in the victim.
Then what?
Simply follow the instructions the
AED gives you. It may be that it advises
that no shock is possible, or that pulse
has been restored, or a variety of other
scenarios. Hopefully, by this time the
ambulance has arrived and they will
take over and treatment from you.
Buying an AED
As we said earlier, we hope that
this article may encourage businesses
and companies to invest in their own
AED and train some of their people
to use it. Make sure everyone knows
where it is!
Or at the prices of these units these
days, why not get together with a few
neighbours and buy one for home –
especially if you have older people
either living with you or close by?
Remember, though, that sudden
cardiac arrest is no respector of age –
whether by accident, trauma, disease
or illness, it can strike at any age!
Acknowledgement:
Our thanks to Gary Beauchamp, of
First Aid Plus, Sydney (02 9905 0155),
for assistance in preparing this feature.
On the left is a “normal” beating heart waveform, showing the rhythmical compression which pumps blood. This is referred to as a “sinus” rhythm. Compare this to the uncontrolled and basically useless waveform of a heart in ventricular
fibrillation. If not stopped (and that’s the job of a defibrillator) the lack of oxygenated bloodflow will quite quickly start to
cause damage to the heart muscles and to the brain (and other organs). Untreated, death is usually the end result.
18 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Which AED is right for YOU?
AED Model Price (Dec15)
Replacements
(if known) Pads Battery
Choosing an AED is not all that simple: the best advice we can give is to look for
one which has a low “consumables” cost as well as an acceptable initial price.
Available From
Phone
Web
First Aid Plus
or Defibtech
(02) 9905 0155
1300 853 563
www.firstaidplus.com.au
www.defibtech.com.au
Australian First Aid
or APL Healthcare
1300 975 889
1300 727 580
www.australianfirstaid.com.au
www.aplhealthcare.com.au
HeartOn A15
$2250 (not known)
$2250
(not known)
Australian First Aid
or APL Healthcare
1300 975 889
1300 727 580
www.australianfirstaid.com.au
www.aplhealthcare.com.au
Heartsine samaritan PAD 500P (not known) (not known)
$2850 (not known)
$2860 (not known)
Aero Healthcare
or APL Healthcare
or Recovery Defibrillators
1800 628 881
1300 727 580
0413 223 472
www.aerohealthcare.com
www.aplhealthcare.com.au
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
Heartsine samaritan PAD 360P (not known) (not known)
Aero Healthcare
1800 628 881
www.aerohealthcare.com
Recovery Defibrillators
0413 223 472
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
APL Healthcare
1300 727 580
www.aplhealthcare.com.au
Defibtech Lifeline
HeartOn A10
$3135 (not known)
(not known) (not known)
$1950 $109.95 $199.00
$1950
(not known)
Heartsine samaritan PAD 350P
$2150
(not known)
Heartsine samaritan PAD 300P
$2400 (not known)
Laerdal HeartStart First Aid
$2390 $108
$250
(not known) (not known)
(not known) (not known)
Laerdal
or Australian Defibrilators
or St John
1800 331 565
1300 333 427
1300 360 455
www.laerdal.com.au
www.aeds.com.au
www.stjohn.org.au
Laerdal HeartStart Frx
(not known) (not known)
(not known) (not known)
$3200 $106
$250
Laerdal
or Australian Defibrilators
or St John
1800 331 565
1300 333 427
1300 360 455
www.laerdal.com.au
www.aeds.com.au
www.stjohn.org.au
First Aid Plus
(02) 9905 0155
www.firstaidplus.com.au
LifePak CR Plus
$2595
(not known)
Mindray Beneheart
(not known) (not known)
Australian Defibrilators
1300 333 427
www.aeds.com.au
Powerheart G3
(not known) (not known)
$2950 $90
$210
$2750 (not known)
Cardiac Science
or Australian Defibrilators
or Recovery Defibrillators
(03) 9429 2666
1300 333 427
0413 223 472
www.cardiacscience.com.au
www.aeds.com.au
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
Powerheart G5
(not known) (not known)
(not known) (not known)
(not known) (not known)
$2750 (not known)
Cardiac Science
First Aid Plus
or Australian Defibrilators
or Recovery Defibrillators
(03) 9429 2666
(02) 9905 0155
1300 333 427
0413 223 472
www.cardiacscience.com.au
www.firstaidplus.com.au
www.aeds.com.au
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
Schiller Fred Easy
(not known) (not known)
$1800
$100
Schiller Australia Pty Ltd
or Recovery Defibrillators
(02) 4954 2442
0413 223 472
www.schiller.com.au
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
Schiller Fred Easyport
(not known) (not known)
$2900 $100
$130
Schiller Australia Pty Ltd
or Recovery Defibrillators
(02) 4954 2442
0413 223 472
www.schiller.com.au
www.recoverydefibrillators.com.au
Zoll AED Plus
(not known) (not known)
$2795
(not known)
(not known)
(not known)
(not known)
(not known)
Zoll Medical Australia
or Defib Shop
or Australian Defibrilators
or St John
1800 605 555
1300 729 575
1300 333 427
1300 360 455
www.zoll.com.au
www.defibshop.com.au
www.aeds.com.au
www.stjohn.org.au
From our research, any of these AEDs appear to be quite suitable for office/factory/building use where untrained users may need to operate them.
However, this is not an exhaustive list. These days, most AEDs operate in a similar way but like any electronic device, might go about it their own way!
Some, for example, monitor CPR and will tell you if the compression depth is insufficient. Others may record data from the heart which can be used later
by a medical professional to review the treatment given and if necessary, tailor ongoing care.
The suppliers listed may or may not have stock and may have price changes, especially if they were on special offer when we checked.
Any prices shown are ex supplier’s websites. Many do not list prices of either the AEDs or their consumables (they want you to call them!).
SC
We suggest calling the numbers shown and/or visit their websites to determine features and availability.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 19
The Micromite
LCD BackPack
. . . add a touch-screen LCD to your next project
By Geoff Graham
The Micromite LCD BackPack combines a full colour touchsensitive LCD panel with a low-cost 32-bit microcontroller
running a BASIC interpreter. It packs an incredible amount of
power at an amazingly cheap price and will leave you thinking
up project after project where you could put it to good use.
A
S ANYONE with a smartphone or
tablet is keenly aware, a touchsensitive colour graphics LCD is the
primary input and output interface for a
whole range of products. These include
not only smartphones and tablets but
also air-conditioners, vehicle controls
and GPS units, plus simpler devices
such as coffee makers. Using the LCD
screen, the user can clearly see what
the product is doing and by using the
touch screen, they can set options and
control the device’s operation.
So wouldn’t it be great to have the
same capability in your next creation?
Well now you can, with the Micromite
LCD BackPack. It’s based on SILICON
CHIP’s Micromite Mk2 microcontroller
running a BASIC interpreter and a
20 Silicon Chip
240 x 320 pixel colour LCD panel
with a touch-sensitive interface. The
LCD panel can be purchased on eBay
for less than $10 and by adding the
low-cost Micromite and a few other
components, you have a complete
controller/display package.
By using the easy-to-learn BASIC
programming language, you can create
a professional graphical interface for
your next creation, be it a reticulation
controller, battery monitor, temperature controller or some other project
that you probably haven’t yet thought
of. With just a few lines of BASIC, you
can display text and draw graphs and
symbols. The touch sensitive input
can be queried from within BASIC, so
the display is all you need to use and
control the gadget. It really is that easy!
It’s also easy to build, uses just a few
parts and costs less than $25. What are
you waiting for? Start creating.
The Micromite
Regular SILICON CHIP readers will
remember the Micromite which was introduced in May 2014, followed by an
updated version, the Micromite Mk2 in
the January 2015 issue. These both use
a low-cost 32-bit PIC32 microcontroller
running a Microsoft compatible BASIC
interpreter called MMBasic.
The BASIC language used by the
Micromite is easy to use, yet powerful. It has the ability to detect logic
signals (ie, on/off) as well as measure
voltages, frequency, temperature,
siliconchip.com.au
humidity and more. Other functions
include an infrared remote control
input, support for numeric keypads
and an in-built clock.
Programs are stored in the chip’s internal flash memory and can be edited
on the Micromite using its in-built full
screen editor, via a serial interface.
A program can be configured to run
immediately on power up so that the
Micromite acts as a pre-programmed
custom chip and the user need not know
anything about what is running inside.
A powerful feature of the Micromite
is the range of communications protocols that it supports. These include
I2C, asynchronous serial, RS-232, IEEE
485, SPI and 1-Wire. These can allow
your program to communicate with
other chips and sensors and to send
data to test equipment. The 28-pin Micromite used in the LCD BackPack has
11 spare input/output pins, so there is
plenty of capability for controlling and
interacting with the outside world.
ILI9341-based LCD panel
The ILI9341 is a graphics LCD
controller that is often referred to as
a COG device (Controller On Glass).
This means that the controller chip is
bonded directly to the glass substrate
used for the LCD. LCD panels using
this technique are manufactured in
very large numbers for use in common
consumer products such as microwave
ovens and refrigerators. As a result,
they are startlingly cheap. You can find
them on eBay for under $10 and that
often includes free freight.
This is incredible value considering
what you get, especially when compared to the old standby for DIY microcontroller projects, the tiny 2-line
16-character LCD module. That’s now
so “last century”!
The display supported by the Micromite has 270 x 340 pixels, 65,536
colours and comes in three different
sizes – 2.2 inch, 2.4 inch and 2.8 inch
diagonal. Most versions also have a
built-in resistive touch controller, so
you can draw buttons and symbols on
the screen and users can then select
these by simply touching the screen.
MMBasic 5.1
The latest version of MMBasic used
by the Micromite Mk2 includes many
improvements but the stand-out feature is its support for ILI9341-based
LCD panels. There are six basic commands that interact with the display,
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
•
Colour TFT LCD with 320 x 240 pixels, 65,536 colours, and 2.2-inch, 2.4-inch
or 2.8-inch diagonal measurement.
•
•
Touch sensitive screen with the touch coordinates reported in pixels.
•
11 input/output pins. All can operate as digital input/outputs and four can operate as analog inputs. Three additional I/O pins for SPI use.
•
•
Digital I/O sink or source capability of 15mA.
•
Graphic commands include CLS, PIXEL, LINE, BOX, RBOX, CIRCLE, TEXT and
BITMAP, using any of the 65,536 colours.
•
Communications protocols include I2C, asynchronous serial, RS232, IEEE 485,
SPI and 1-Wire.
•
Built in support for IR remote controls, temperature and humidity sensors, distance sensors, numeric keypads and battery-backed clocks.
•
•
Power supply: 4.5V to 5.5V.
•
Dimensions: 50 x 86 x 27mm for 2.8-inch LCD; 45 x 77 x 27mm for 2.4-inch
LCD.
Microchip 32-bit 48MHz microcontroller with 256KB flash memory and 64KB of
RAM.
MMBasic interpreter with 59KB program space and 53KB RAM (for variables
and other uses). Programs can be 2500 lines or more in size.
Current drain: 175mA at normal screen brightness; 225mA at full brightness
(40MHz CPU speed).
the simplest being PIXEL which allows you to set a single pixel to any
one of 65,536 colours. You can also
draw lines with the LINE command,
circles with the CIRCLE command and
boxes with the BOX command. These
commands have many options so, for
example, you can control the width
and colour of the lines as well as the
colour used to fill boxes and circles.
The TEXT command will display
text in any position on the display
panel in the same 65,536 colours.
More than a dozen fonts are available,
ranging from tiny to large, and these
include graphical icons which can be
used to liven up the display.
Most cheap LCD panels also have a
resistive touch screen and MMBasic
5.1 includes full support for detecting
a touch on the screen via the TOUCH()
function. This will return the X and Y
coordinates (in pixels) of where the
screen is touched so that your program
can react accordingly.
Using the drawing commands, you
can draw a button on the screen and
then monitor the touch function to
see if that button has been pressed.
The touch feature is so convenient
that you will be able to dispense with
physical switches and/or knobs in
many projects.
Micromite LCD BackPack
The Micromite LCD BackPack brings
The Micromite
LCD BackPack
incorporates
graphic drawing
capabilities with
touch sensitivity,
so it’s easy to use
it as a user input/
output interface
in a project. In
this case, the
display shows a
keypad which
can be used to
enter a number.
February 2016 21
+5V
POWER
AND
CONSOLE
REG1 MCP1700-3302E
IN
GND
10 µF
+3.3V
OUT
10 µF
100nF
100nF
5V
Tx
13
Rx
GND
CON1
DATA OUT
11
DATA IN
12
MICROMITE
I/O
1
RESET
3
4
5
9
10
14
16
SPI OUT/ANALOG/DIGITAL/INTERRUPT
ANALOG/DIGITAL/INTERRUPT
4
ANALOG/DIGITAL/INTERRUPT
5
COM2:TX/DIGITAL/INTERRUPT
9
COM2:RX/DIGITAL/INTERRUPT
10
SPI IN/5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL
14
5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL/COUNT/WAKEUP/IR
16
5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL/COUNT/I C CLOCK
17
2
17
5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL/COUNT/I C DATA
18
COM1:TX/5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL
21
COM1:RX/5V-TOLERANT DIGITAL
22
ANALOG/DIGITAL
24
SPI CLK/ANALOG/DIGITAL
25
ANALOG/DIGITAL
26
2
18
21
22
24
25
26
3
+3.3V
15
T_IRQ
T_DO
T_DIN
7
T_CS
MICROMITE
MK2
T_CLK
SDO (MISO)
LED
IC1
PIC32MX170F
–256B
SCK
SDI (MOSI)
2
D/C
23
RESET
6
CS
VR1
100 Ω
14 25
20
8
+5V
ILI9341
BASED
LCD DISPLAY
28
19
27
PINS
ON IC1
47 µF
TANT
GND
3
BACK
LIGHT
+5V
GND
VCC
CON3
ICSP
1
3 – GND
RESET
5 – PGC
4 – PGD
S1
6 – NC
10k
CON4
+3.3V
+5V
20 1 6
2 –Vcc
5
CON2
SC
1 – MCLR
+3.3V
4
MC P1700
MICROMITE MK2 Backpack For LCD touch-screen
IN
OUT
GND
Fig.1: the Micromite LCD BackPack circuit uses just 10 components, including the LCD panel. IC1 is the Micromite
which does most of the work, while IC2 is a voltage regulator supplying 3.3V to IC1. There is another voltage regulator
built into IC1 which supplies 1.8V for the CPU inside this IC. The 47µF capacitor on pin 20 (Vcap) stabilises this
regulator and it is critical that a high-quality capacitor, such as a tantalum type, is used in this position.
all three of these elements together. It is
a small PCB that is designed to piggyback on an ILI9341-based LCD panel,
making a two-layer “sandwich”. It uses
just 10 components and will take less
than half an hour to build.
The backpack is designed so that
it and its LCD panel can be plugged
into a solderless breadboard with a
0.1-inch pitch. This allows interface
circuitry to be tested and debugged
in an easy-to-use environment. Then,
once debugged, the circuit can be
transferred to a custom PCB or strip
board and mounted on the back of the
BackPack, making a compact threelayer sandwich.
The accompanying photographs
give some examples of what you can
use the Micromite LCD BackPack for.
We experimented with a battery monitor, digital speedometer and an engine
22 Silicon Chip
monitor. But as you may have realised
by now, the possibilities are endless.
Referring to the circuit in Fig.1,
you can see that the Micromite LCD
BackPack is about as simple as it gets.
The main power input is 5V and this
is used to directly power the LCD. It is
also fed to a small 3-pin regulator that
provides 3.3V for the microcontroller.
The microcontroller used for the
Micromite is the Microchip PIC32MX
170F256B. This device has a 32-bit
processor running at up to 50MHz,
256KB of rewritable flash memory and
64KB of RAM; not bad for something
so cheap.
Most pins on the Micromite run to
the four main connectors:
• CON1 is the power input and the
console (more on that later);
• CON2 is the main I/O connector
and it is here that you interface the
Micromite LCD BackPack to the outside world;
• CON3 is the connector dedicated
to the ILI934-based LCD panel; and
• CON4 is the ICSP (In-Circuit Serial
Programmer) connector which is used
to load the MMBasic firmware into a
blank microcontroller. We specified a
rightangle 6-pin header for this connector, as that allows a programmer
such as the PICKit3 to plug into CON4
even when an LCD panel is attached.
The only other components of note
are S1 which is a small pushbutton
used to reset the processor and R1
which is a 100Ω trimpot that’s used to
adjust the brightness of the LCD’s backlight. R1 is in series with the power
to the backlight LEDs, so it limits the
current drawn by them and therefore
the brightness.
Note that the LCD panel also has a
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the 2.8-inch touch-screen LCD panel. The
2.4-inch panel is slightly smaller but is otherwise virtually
identical in appearance. Both display sizes will plug into
either BackPack PCB and will work perfectly. The only issue with a mismatched display and BackPack PCB is that a
special physical mounting arrangement would be required.
3.9Ω resistor in series with the backlight so you will not burn out the
backlight if you wind R1 all the way
down to 0Ω.
Sourcing the LCD panel
As stated, the ILI9341-based LCD
panels come in three sizes: 2.2-inch
(56mm), 2.4-inch (61mm) and 2.8-inch
(71mm) diagonal. Generally, the 2.2inch display does not have a touchsensitive screen while the 2.4-inch
and 2.8-inch displays do. The display
also includes an SD card socket but
that is not supported by the Micromite
Mk2 due to memory limitations.
The best place to find a suitable
display is on eBay but other online
markets such as Alibaba also have
them, as well as some online retailers.
There are many variations on offer so
make sure that the display that you
purchase matches the photographs
in this article. This is important – the
Micromite has been extensively tested
with the photographed displays so you
can be sure that they will work.
Other features to look out for in a
compatible display are a red PCB, a
resolution of 240 x 320 pixels and an
SPI interface. Often, the description
will emphasise that the display is for
use with the Arduino but that is not
relevant; they work just as well with
the Micromite.
On eBay, the best way to find a suitable display is to search for the phrase
“ILI9341 LCD”. You should find many
displays ranging in price from US$6
upwards. Note that there are some 2.4inch displays on the market that omit
the touch sensitive controller so if you
siliconchip.com.au
A rear view of the 2.4-inch LCD panel (the 2.8-inch
panel looks the same except for its slightly larger
dimensions). Note the 16-pin touch controller chip
to the bottom right. There are a number of different
displays on the market so make sure that the display
you purchase matches this photograph to ensure that
it is compatible with the Micromite LCD BackPack
PCB.
need that feature, make sure that it is
confirmed in the seller’s description.
Because the 2.2-inch display does
not normally include a touch panel
we did not design a PCB for that size
but we did design separate PCBs for
the 2.4-inch and 2.8-inch displays.
The only difference between the
two boards is that their dimensions
and mounting holes match the corresponding display; otherwise they
are identical.
All three display sizes will plug
into either-sized PCB and will work
perfectly. So your only issue with a
mismatched display and PCB is that
you will need to use a different physical mounting arrangement.
The 14-pin female connector used
for CON3 (to connect the LCD display)
can be difficult to source. You can buy
them on eBay or you can do what we
did and cut down a longer connector
to size and then use a file to smooth the
rough edge so that it looks presentable.
The reset pushbutton switch (S1)
can be mounted on either side of
the board. Mounting it on the noncomponent side may make it easier
to reach when you have the board and
LCD panel fastened together.
Note that the 10µF and 47µF capacitors are polarised (the longer lead is
the positive) so make sure that they
are orientated according to the silk
Construction
Construction is quite simple but
before you commence you need to
consider a few options. If you are
buying a pre-programmed chip for the
Micromite you could leave out CON4 –
the programming connector. Also you
do not necessarily have to use an LCD
panel with the Micromite BackPack.
It could be just the Micromite that
you need and in that case CON3 can
be omitted.
Finally, you may want to run wires
directly to CON2. In that case, you can
omit the pin header for that connector.
As usual, you should start construction with the low profile components
and work your way up to the bigger
items such as the connectors. We
recommend using a socket for IC1 as
that will enable you to swap out the
microcontroller if you suspect that you
have damaged it.
The BackPack PCB is designed so that
it can be plugged into a solderless
breadboard. This allows any interface
circuitry to be tested and debugged
before a PCB is designed.
February 2016 23
2.4-Inch Micromite
LCD BackPack
http://geoffg.net/micromite.html
MCP1700-3302E
CON3
LCD
S1
RESET
07102121
Backlight
VR1 100Ω
2.8-Inch Micromite
LCD BackPack
07102122
+
10 µF
IC1 PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP
http://geoffg.net/micromite.html
1
(UNDER)
10 µF
REG1
MCP1700-3302E
CON3
LCD
100nF
1
ICSP
CON4
100nF
CON1
+
+
47µF
+
+
100nF
1
REG1
10 µF
IC1 PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP
1
10 µF
10k
47µF
10k
GND
(UNDER)
+
100nF
CON4
CON1
(UNDER)
1
ICSP
5V
TX
RX
CON2
5V
GND
3
4
5
9
10
14
16
17
18
21
22
24
25
26
3V3
RESET
(UNDER)
5V
TX
RX
GND
RESET
3
4
5
9
10
14
16
17
18
21
22
24
25
26
3V3
5V
GND
CON2
S1
RESET
Backlight
100Ω
VR1
1
Fig.2: these two diagrams show the parts layout on the BackPack PCB for the 2.4-inch LCD at left and the 2.8-inch
LCD at right. Note that pin headers CON1 & CON2 at the top mount on the rear of the PCB (both versions).
screen on the PCB. The 47µF capacitor is particularly critical and must
be a tantalum type, not electrolytic.
A multi-layer ceramic capacitor could
also be used in this location but they
are generally SMD types for this sort of
value. The final PCBs have provision
for SMD or through-hole capacitors.
Pin headers CON1 (console + power)
and CON2 (I/O pins) should be mounted on the underside (non-component)
side of the board, as shown in the
photos. Don’t mistakenly mount them
on the top of the board because they
would then be impossible to reach
when an LCD panel is attached.
Before you plug the microcontroller
into its socket it would be prudent to
apply power and check that 3.3V is
across the correct socket pins and that
+5V is on the correct pin on CON3.
With that check made, you can remove
the power and plug in IC1 and the
LCD panel.
The BackPack PCB and the LCD
panel can then be fastened together
on all four corners using M3 x 12mm
tapped spacers and M3 x 6mm machine
screws (or, as shown in the photos,
16mm machine screws with nuts).
Be careful when handling the LCD
panel. The ILI9341 controller is sensitive to static electricity and can be easily destroyed with careless handling.
Make sure that you are grounded when
handling the display and avoid touching the connecting pins.
Finally, if you have a blank PIC32
microcontroller, it should be programm
ed with the latest Micromite firmware
which can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website. Refer to the accompanying panel for the details on
how to do this.
Connecting the console
In order to write and debug BASIC
programs on the Micromite, you use
the console. This is a serial interface
running at 38,400 baud and which uses
TTL signal levels. This is similar to the
RS-232 interface on older computers
but the TTL signal level is inverted
and swings from zero to 3.3V.
USB-to-Serial Converters
There are many USB-to-serial converters on the market, ranging in price
from $2-20. One of the most popular
types is based on the FTDI FT232RL
chip. In fact, this chip has become so
popular that some companies make
clones of it, even down to the markings
which imitate the genuine chip.
This understandably upset FTDI and
they released a new Windows device
driver that not only refused to work with
a clone chip but also disabled the chip
so that it would not work with any other
computer or driver.This driver was also
included in an automatic update that
Microsoft provided for Windows-based
24 Silicon Chip
USB-to-serial
converters
based on the
CP2102 chip
can be found
on eBay for just
a few dollars.
PCs, with the result that thousands of
people found that their USB-to-serial
converters suddenly stopped working
and were worthless.
The problem with this is that, at the
time of purchase, there is no way of
knowing if a new FT232RL-based converter uses the genuine chip or not.
You will only find out when you receive
There are quite a few USB-to-serial
converters on the market (see the panel
below). These provide a TTL level serial interface on one side and a USB
interface on the other. When connected
to a computer running Windows, Mac
or Linux, the converter will appear as
a virtual serial port. On a Windows
computer, it often appears as a high
numbered COM port, eg, COM12 or
COM45.
The serial interface side of the converter will generally have a ground pin
and a 5V power output pin and these
can be connected to the corresponding pins on CON1 on the Micromite
BackPack. The serial converter will
then provide power to the backpack
and the attached LCD, which is handy
when you are editing or testing a program. If you do not need the converter
(perhaps you have a working program),
you should use the GND and 5V pins
on CON1 as the main power input.
The USB-to-serial converter will
also have two pins marked TX (or similar) for transmit and RX (or similar)
the converter and try plugging it into a
Windows computer.
An alternative that does not carry this
risk are converters based on the Silicon
Labs CP2102 chip, as shown in the accompanying photograph. They can be
found on eBay for a few dollars (search
for “CP2102”). We have tested them on
the Micromite with both Windows 7 and
Windows 10 and can report that they
work just fine.
Because USB-to-serial converters
based on the CP2102 are so cheap (often less than the retail price of the USB
cable), you can afford to permanently
connect one to the Micromite BackPack.
This is handy if ever you need to come
back and modify the program later.
siliconchip.com.au
The photo at left shows the fully-assembled PCB for
a 2.4-inch LCD panel (the 2.8-inch version is nearly
identical). The connector to the left is for the in-circuit
programmer, the connector on the right is for the LCD
panel and the two on the top are for input/output and
the console. The view above right shows how the LCD
panel plugs into the BackPack PCB, with the two then
secured together using M3 x 12mm untapped spacers
and machine screws (see text).
for receive. The TX pin of the serial
converter must go to the RX pin of the
Micromite and the RX pin must go to
the TX pin. This may sound confusing
but it makes sense when you think
about it.
Basically, the transmit signal from
the converter (the TX pin) needs to go
to the receive pin (RX) on the Micromite so that the Micromite can receive
data sent by the converter. Similarly,
transmit from the Micromite must go
to receive on the converter.
When you plug the USB side of the
converter into your computer you may
have to load a driver to make it work
with the operating system. Once this is
done you should note the port number
created for the virtual serial connection. In Windows, this can be done by
firing up Device Manager and checking
the “Ports (COM & LPT)” entry for a
new COM port.
Terminal emulator
With this information, you can
start up a terminal emulator program
The USB-to-serial converter should be connected via
colour-coded flying leads to a 4-way header socket, so
that it can be plugged into CON1 on the underside of the
BackPack PCB (see photo above right). Use a red wire
for +5V, white for TX, yellow for RX and black for GND.
on your desktop computer. This
program acts like an old-fashioned
computer terminal where it will
display text received from a remote
computer and any key presses will be
sent to the remote computer over the
serial link.
For Windows, we recommend
Tera Term version 4.88 which has a
host of features and is free. It can be
downloaded from http://tera-term.
en.lo4d.com/
Once you have your terminal emulator running, you should configure it
for the serial port number that you recorded previously and set the interface
to 38,400 baud, 8 bits data, no parity
and one stop bit. This is the standard
used by the Micromite.
Then you can hit the Enter key on
the terminal emulator and you should
see the Micromite command prompt
(a “>” character). If you press the reset
button on the BackPack, you should
see the full copyright banner as shown
in Fig.5.
If you do not want to use a desktop
computer you can use the ASCII Video
Terminal featured in SILICON CHIP,
July 2014. This will convert a PS/2
keyboard and a VGA monitor or old
TV set into a full terminal emulator
Fig.3: the Micromite LCD
BackPack is connected to
your PC using a USB-to-Serial
converter. All programming
and control of the Micromite
is carried out via the console
using a terminal emulator on
the PC. Once the program is
debugged and running, you
can then disconnect the USBto-Serial converter.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 25
Programming The Micromite Firmware
Before you can use the Micromite, you
must program it with the Micromite firmware. This can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website and includes the
MMBasic interpreter which is what you
need to start programming in BASIC.
The easiest option though is to purchase the chip already programmed
from the SILICON CHIP Online Shop.
This can either be obtained separately
or as part of a kit (see parts list for
further details). Alternatively, you can
build the low-cost PIC32 programmer
described in the November 2015 issue
and program the chip yourself using the
downloaded firmware.
Yet another option is to use Microchip’s PICkit 3 programmer. This costs
around $60 plus freight. The Micromite
LCD BackPack is designed to accept
the PICkit 3, even when the LCD display
is attached. The accompanying photo
shows just such a set-up
To use the PICkit 3, you first need to
download and install Microchip’s MPLAB
X software development system on
your personal computer. This comes in
various versions for Windows, Mac OS
and Linux. Unfortunately, the full install
includes a lot of stuff that you don’t need
(such as a full integrated development
environment) but the important part is
MPLAB IPE which is the programming
component (IPE stands for Integrated
Programming Environment). This is
normally installed as an icon on your
PC’s desktop.
Using MPLAB IPE is reasonably
intuitive. You simply select the PICkit 3
as the programmer, select the type of
chip that you are programming (PIC-
which will work perfectly with the
Micromite.
ble for download from the SILICON CHIP
website) runs to just over 90 pages and
we cannot cover that much detail here.
So, the following is intended more to
give you the “flavour” of how to program the Micromite using MMBasic.
When you first connect to the Micromite with a terminal emulator you will
see the command prompt, the “greater
than” symbol (>). At this prompt, you
can enter almost any command in the
language to test features, configure options or run a program.
For example, if you typed PRINT
2 + 2 and then hit the enter key,
MMBasic would respond with 4 and
then display the prompt again. This
is immediate mode and is useful for
testing commands and their effects.
Most times, you will want to run
a program that consists of more than
one line and in this case there are three
ways of getting your program into the
Micromite. The first is by using the
EDIT command which will start the
Micromite’s built-in editor. Using the
editor, you can seamlessly enter and
edit programs up to the maximum
size that the Micromite can handle
(about 59KB).
Another way to load a program is
via the AUTOSAVE command. This instructs the Micromite to take anything
that is sent to it over the console line
and save it to program memory. The
AUTOSAVE command will terminate
when a Ctrl-z character is received. All
terminal emulators have the ability
to send a file over the serial line and
when the whole file has been sent you
can enter Ctrl-z on the keyboard to
signal the end of the file.
The third method is to use the
XMODEM command on the Micromite.
This will cause the Micromite to wait
for an XModem transfer from the PC
and then receive the program using
that protocol. Many terminal emulators, including Tera Term, support the
XModem protocol.
MMEDIT
Another convenient method of creating and testing your programs is to
use MMEDIT. This program was written by SILICON CHIP reader Jim Hiley,
from Tasmania. It can be installed on
a Windows or Linux computer and
allows you to edit your program on your
PC and then, with a single button click,
transfer it to the Micromite for testing.
MMEDIT is easy to use, with colourcoded text, mouse-based cut and paste
and many more useful features such as
bookmarks and automatic indenting.
Because the program runs on your PC,
you can save and load your programs
to and from the computer’s hard disk.
It’s free and can be downladed from:
http://www.c-com.com.au/MMedit.htm
Driving the Micromite
The Micromite User Manual (availa-
Fig.4: to communicate with the Micromite LCD
BackPack’s console, the terminal emulator must
be set to 38,400 baud, 8 bits data, no parity and
one stop bit. This example shows the serial set-up
dialog box for Tera Term.
26 Silicon Chip
Fig.5: when you connect the Micromite LCD BackPack to a PC
and press the reset button on the BackPack, you should see
the start-up banner displayed as shown here. The terminal
emulator used here is Tera Term.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
32MX170F256B), load the firmware
(the HEX file) and click on the “Program”
button. The PICkit 3 will then program
and verify the chip in less than a minute
(see the article on using the PICkit 3 in
the July 2010 issue for further details).
MMEDIT (the free editing program
mentioned earlier) automates this aspect for you. It uses a combination of
AUTOSAVE and XMODEM to transfer
the program at the click of a button.
Inside the Micromite, the program
is saved to non-volatile flash memory.
This means that you can turn the
power off and the program will still be
there when you reapply power. With
the program in memory, you can enter
the RUN command which will cause
the Micromite to start running it.
If an error occurs, the Micromite will
print an error message on the console
and return to the command prompt.
This is where the in-built editor is
particularly useful. You can enter the
command EDIT and the editor will
place the cursor on the line that caused
the error. When you have fixed the
fault, you press F2 which will instruct
the editor to save the program and run
it again.
This edit/run cycle is very fast and
helps make programming the Micromite a breeze.
when you have the Micromite LCD
BackPack running and connected
to the console is configure it for the
LCD. To do this, type the following
line at the command prompt and hit
the Enter key:
Configuring the LCD panel
The first thing that you need to do
OPTION LCDPANEL ILI9341, L,
2, 23, 6
This tells the Micromite that the
LCD panel is connected and what I/O
pins are used for critical signals such
as reset and device select. This option
only needs to be entered once because
the Micromite will store the setting in
its internal non-volatile memory and
will automatically reapply it whenever
power is applied.
Following this command, the Micromite will initialise the display
(which should go dark) and return to
the command prompt. You can test
the display by entering the following
at the command prompt:
GUI TEST LCDPANEL
This will cause the Micromite to
draw a series of rapidly overlapping
coloured circles on the display. This
animated test will continue until you
This photo shows
the display when
the command GUI
TEST LCDPANEL
is used. It is
animated, with
random circles
being rapidly
drawn on top of
each other and
makes a good test
of the Micromite
and LCD
combination.
siliconchip.com.au
1 PCB, code 07102121, 77 x
45mm for 2.4-inch LCD; or
code 07102122, 86 x 50mm
for 2.8-inch LCD
1 ILI9341-based LCD, 320 x 240
pixels, 2.2-inch, 2.4-inch or
2.8-inch diagonal
1 4-pin tactile switch, through-hole
1 100Ω vertical mounting sideadjust trimpot (Altronics R2579,
element14 9608044 or similar)
1 28-pin DIL low-profile IC socket
1 4-pin 0.1-inch male header
(CON1)
1 18-pin 0.1-inch male header
(CON2)
1 14-pin 0.1-inch female header
socket (CON3)
1 6-pin 0.1-inch right-angle male
header (CON4)
4 M3 x 12mm tapped spacers
8 M3 x 6mm machine screws OR
4 M3 x 16mm machine screws
and matching nuts
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP
microcontroller programmed
with Micromite Mk2 firmware,
V5.1 or later (IC1). Note: a
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SP can
also be used but will be limited
to 40MHz
1 Microchip MCP1700-3302E/TO
voltage regulator (IC2)
Capacitors
1 47µF 16V tantalum or SMD
ceramic (3216/1206)
2 10µF 16V tantalum or SMD
ceramic (3216/1206)
2 100nF monolithic ceramic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 10kΩ
Where to buy parts
A complete kit for the Micromite
LCD BackPack will be available
from the SILICON CHIP Online Shop.
This includes a 2.8-inch TFT touchscreen and matching PCB, plus the
programmed microcontroller and all
other parts as listed above.
The PCBs, the pre-programmed
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP microcontroller & the MCP1700-3302E/
TO voltage regulator can also be
purchased separately from the
Online Shop.
February 2016 27
CLS
BOX 0, 0, MM.HRes-1, MM.VRes/2, 3, RGB(RED), RGB(BLUE)
DO
TEXT MM.HRes/2, MM.VRes/4, TIME$, CM, 1, 4, RGB(CYAN), RGB(BLUE)
TEXT MM.HRes/2, MM.VRes*3/4, DATE$, CM, 1, 3, RGB(GREEN)
IF TOUCH(X) <> -1 THEN END
LOOP
Fig.6: this simple program will display a clock/calendar on the LCD panel.
press any key on the console’s keyboard and MMBasic will then return
to the command prompt.
To configure the touch feature you
should enter the following at the command prompt:
OPTION TOUCH 7, 15
This command allocates the I/O pins
for the touch controller and initialises
it. This option is also stored in nonvolatile memory and automatically
applied on power-up.
You do not have to run this command if your panel does not have a
touch-sensitive screen but you must
use it if your LCD does have a touch
facility – even if you will not be using
touch in your program. This is because the touch chip select line could
“float”, causing the touch controller to
respond to commands intended for the
panel’s ILI9341 controller
With the touch feature configured,
MMBasic will know to keep the touch
chip select line inactive. Before you
can use the touch facility you need
to calibrate it. This is done with the
following command:
GUI CALIBRATE
This will cause MMBasic to draw a
target at the top lefthand corner of the
screen as shown in the accompanying
photograph. Next, using a pointy but
blunt object, press on the exact centre
of the target. After a second, the target
will disappear and when you lift your
touch another target will appear on
the top right.
By repeating the above procedure,
the target will be displayed, in turn,
on all four corners of the display and
the touch feature will be calibrated.
When completed, the message “Done.
No errors” should be displayed on the
console. You also might get a message
indicating that the calibration was inaccurate and in that case you should
repeat it, taking more care to apply a
steady press on the centre of the target.
As before, these calibration details
are saved in non-volatile memory and
will be reapplied at power up. You
can now test the touch facility with
the command:
GUI TEST TOUCH
This will clear the screen and when
you touch it, pixels will be illuminated
at the touch point. This enables you to
test the accuracy of the calibration. Using a stylus, touch the screen and the
pixels under the touch point should
light. Pressing any key will terminate
the test. You can also use this test
This is an example of the display when calibrating the
touch screen using the command GUI CALIBRATE.
28 Silicon Chip
This is the result of running the test
program for a simple clock as describ
ed in the text. Note that the font used
in the photo is different from the font
that you will see.
feature as a simple drawing screen,
rather like a high-tech version of the
Etch A Sketch.
Fault-finding
Because it’s so simple, there’s not
a lot that can go wrong with the Micromite LCD BackPack. If the display
doesn’t light or perform as it should,
the first thing to do is check that the correct supply voltages are on IC1’s socket
and on CON3 (the LCD connector).
That done, check the 5V supply current for the full module, including the
LCD. It should range from 100-200mA,
depending on the setting of the backlight trimpot. If it is substantially
lower than this, check that the PIC32
and the LCD are correctly seated in
their sockets.
With the LCD removed, the power
consumption should be about 25mA. If
it is a lot less than this, it indicates that
the PIC32 processor has not started up
and in that case the 47µF capacitor is
the most likely culprit. As previously
stated, it must be a tantalum or multilayer ceramic type, not an electrolytic.
This is an example of the display when the command
GUI TEST TOUCH is used. It illuminates pixels where
touched and is a good test for the touch calibration.
siliconchip.com.au
The rear side of the
Micromite BackPack
PCB is silk-screened
with the functions
and pin numbers of
the console and I/O
connectors. This makes
it easy to identify the
correct connector pin
when the Micromite
BackPack PCB and the
LCD panel are fastened
together.
If the voltages and power consumption are correct, the problem could be
with the console connection. Disconnect the USB-to-serial converter and
join its TX and RX pins. Then try
typing something into the terminal
emulator. You should see your characters echoed back and if that doesn’t
happen, it indicates a fault with the
converter or the terminal emulator.
If the USB-serial converter checks
out, the fault could be related to the
console connection to the Micromite
LCD BackPack. Make sure that TX
connects to RX and vice versa and that
the baud rate is 38,400. If you have an
oscilloscope, you should be able to see
a burst of activity on the BackPack’s
TX line on power up. This is the Micromite sending its start-up banner.
Test program
With the Micromite LCD BackPack
working, you are ready to enter a
test program. Using any of the three
methods mentioned before (EDIT,
AUTOSAVE or XMODEM), enter the
sample program shown in Fig.6.
This program will display a simple
clock/calendar on the LCD panel as
shown in an accompanying photo
(note that the font used in the photo
is different from the font that you will
see). Touching the screen will terminate the program.
The program starts by drawing a box
Firmware Updates
For firmware updates & manual
please check the author’s website at
geoffg.net/micromite.html
You should also check out the Back
Shed forum (www.thebackshed.
com/forum/Microcontrollers) where
there are many Maximite and Micromite enthusiasts who are happy to
help beginners.
siliconchip.com.au
with red walls and a blue interior. It
then enters a continuous loop where
it performs three functions:
(1) It displays the current time inside
the previously drawn box. The string
is drawn centred both horizontally and
vertically in the middle of the box;
(2) It draws the date centred in the
lower half of the screen; and
(3) It checks for a touch on the screen.
This is indicated when the TOUCH(X)
function returns something other
than -1. In that case, the program will
terminate.
Interfacing
The Micromite LCD Backpack interfaces to the “outside world” via
CON2, the main I/O connector. This is
designed so that you can plug it into a
solderless breadboard or connect to a
third board mounted on the back on
the BackPack.
The silk-screen on the PCB identifies
each pin on the connector. The GND,
5V and 3.3V pins can be used to power
your external interface circuitry. The
maximum current that can be drawn
from the 3.3V pin is 150mA, while
the maximum 5V load will depend
on your 5V supply. The RESET pin
is normally pulled up by the onboard
10kΩ resistor to +3.3V and if you pull
it low, the Micromite will reset.
The other I/O pins connect directly
to the Micromite and are marked with
the Micromite’s pin number. Refer to
the Micromite User Manual (downloadable from the SILICON CHIP website
or from the author’s website) for details
of what you can do with each pin.
As an example, you could configure
one of the analog-capable pins (say pin
4) to measure voltage. The command
to do this is:
SETPIN 4, AIN
Measuring the voltage on that pin
A test program for a lead-acid battery
state of charge monitor using the
Micromite LCD BackPack. The bar
on the left shows the state of charge
while the numbers on the right
display the battery voltage, charging
current in amps (from a solar panel)
and the discharge current.
A test program for an engine monitor
using the Micromite LCD BackPack.
The display updates smoothly, with
the needles reacting very quickly to
any change. Program courtesy Peter
Mather on the Back Shed Forum.
is then as simple as using the PIN()
function. For example:
PRINT PIN(4)
This will display the voltage at pin
4 on the console.
Three of the pins on CON2 (pins 3,
14 & 25) are also connected to the colour LCD for communicating with the
display using the SPI protocol. For this
reason, they cannot be used as generalpurpose I/O pins. However, they can
still be used for SPI communications if
needed; this is why they are included
on this connector.
The user manual (http://geoffg.net/
micromite.html) describes how to use
the SPI interface simultaneously with
the LCD and it’s not hard to do. However, for normal operation, you should
just make sure that you do not use pins
3, 14 & 25 for general I/O.
Well, that’s it – an inexpensive
processor and display package with
a host of possibilities. What plans do
SC
you have for it?
February 2016 29
Pt.1: By JOHN CLARKE
Solar MPPT Charger &
Lighting Controller
This MPPT charger/light controller will work with 12V or 24V
solar panels to charge a 12V or 24V lead-acid or lithium iron
phosphate battery. You can then use the battery to run 12V DC
lighting or a 12V/24V 230VAC inverter to run lighting or to drive
other loads.
S
OLAR PANELS are becoming
cheaper all the time, so now you
can build a low-cost system to power
lighting and other loads around your
home, your boat or caravan or for a
home that’s not connected to the grid.
This unit gives you the choice of running a 12V solar panel up to 120W or
a 24V panel up to 220W. It can switch
lights on at dusk and off at dawn. By
including a PIR (passive infrared) detector, you can also have lights switch
on with movement detection and off
with the timer. You can also manually
switch the lights on or off at any time.
The unit incorporates Maximum
Power Point Tracking (MPPT) to maximise the output from the solar panel,
regardless of the solar intensity, and
30 Silicon Chip
it provides 3-stage charging for SLA
(sealed lead-acid) batteries or 2-stage
charging for LiFePO4 batteries. Cell
equalisers will be required if using a
LiFePO4 battery; more about this later.
Whether you intend operating with
a 12V or 24V system, you are not limited to 12V DC lighting. The battery
can be used with a 12V or 24V/230VAC
inverter of up 600W or more (depending on the size of your battery) to
run 230VAC LED downlights, laptop
computers, TV sets, power tools and so
on. Mind you, while the unit can work
with a solar panel rated up to 120W
at 12V or 220W up 24V, you can use a
smaller panel if that is all you require.
A big advantage of using a 230VAC
inverter is that you will have a much
larger choice of lights than if you are
confined to a 12V DC system.
Fig.1 shows the arrangement of our
Solar Lighting Controller and depicts
the solar panel, battery and the 12V
lighting or 230VAC inverter. Additional inputs to the controller include
a light sensor to monitor the ambient
light, a PIR detector and a timer.
For use in garden lighting, the light
sensor allows the lights to switch on
at dusk and they can remain lit for a
preset period of up to eight hours, as
set by the timer. Alternatively, you may
wish to have the lights lit for the entire
night and to switch off automatically
at sunrise, provided there is sufficient
battery charge (and capacity).
For security or pathway lighting, the
siliconchip.com.au
lights can be set to switch on after dusk
but only when someone approaches
the area. In this case, a PIR movement
detector switches on the lights, while
the timer switches off the lights after a
predetermined period, typically about
one to two minutes. Periods extending
up to the full 8-hour timer limit are
available if you need more time.
The actual total wattage of the lights
that you can use depends on the application. With its internal Mosfet switching, it will supply a load drawing up
to 10A from a 12V or 24V battery.
You will get the best efficiency using
LED lighting or 12V fluorescent lamps
rather than using standard or halogen
filament lamps.
Alternatively, the controller can
switch a heavy-duty relay to drive a
12V or 24V inverter, as noted above,
and it will protect the battery by
switching off to prevent over-discharge, since it includes low battery
detection, with a cut-off below 11V.
This is most important for lead-acid
or lithium iron phosphate batteries.
Standby current drain of the Solar
Lighting Controller is quite low at
2.2mA but this increases to around
12mA if a PIR detector is used.
Multi-stage charging
As mentioned above, the Controller
provides 3-stage charging for leadacid batteries or a 2-stage charge for
LiFePO4 batteries. Fig.2 shows the
3-stage charging with bulk, absorption
SOLAR PANEL
12V 120W OR
24V 220W
12V LIGHTING
OR
230VAC INVERTER
TEMPERATURE
SENSING (NTC1)
SOLAR
CHARGER
CONTROLLER
LIGHT SENSING
(LDR1)
12V/24V BATTERY
Fig.1: block diagram of the
lighting system. It uses a
a solar panel, a 12V/24V
battery and the MPPT
Charge Controller to drive
either 12V lighting or a
230VAC inverter and can
be switched using various
sensors.
PIR DETECTOR
TIMER (VR4)
ON/OFF SWITCH
and float modes. Bulk charge is applied
when the battery voltage drops below
12.7V and feeds maximum power from
the solar panel until the battery voltage reaches cut-off at 14.4V <at> 20°C.
Next is the absorption phase where
the battery is maintained at the cut-off
voltage of 14.4V for one hour, to ensure
full charge. After that, the battery is
maintained on float charge at 13.5V.
The cut-off voltage for bulk charge
and the float voltage is reduced for
temperatures above 20°C, in accordance with the battery manufacturers’
charging specifications. Typically, this
is 19mV per °C for a 12V battery. So
at 30°C, the voltages are reduced by
190mV, ie, 14.2V and 13.3V respectively.
The ambient temperature is measured using an NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor which
should be located close that the battery
or preferably, attached to the case of
the battery for more accurate temperature sensing. Charging will not
occur if the thermistor is shorted or
not connected.
CUTOFF
BATTERY
VOLTAGE
BATTERY
VOLTAGE
FLOAT
VOLTAGE
BULK
ABSORPTION
BULK
FLOAT
TIME
TIME
CHARGE
CURRENT
CHARGE
CURRENT
TIME
Fig.2: 3-stageFIG.2:
charging
is used for
lead-acid batteries, startTHREE-STAGE
CHARGING
ing with an initial bulk charge. When the battery reaches
the cut-off voltage, the absorption stage takes over to fully
charge it. The float stage then maintains the charge.
siliconchip.com.au
ABSORPTION
TIME
Fig.3: 2-stageFIG.3:
charging
is used CHARGING
for LiFePO4 batteries and
TWO-STAGE
consists of bulk and absorption stages. These stages are
exactly the same as for lead-acid batteries but there is no
subsequent float charge mode.
February 2016 31
SOLAR PANEL POWER CURVE SIMULATION
(120W PANEL)
24V
OPEN CIRCUIT
VOLTAGE
(Voc = 21.8)
22V
VOLTAGE DROP WITH
CURRENT SLOPE
20V
OUTPUT VOLTAGE
18V
Fig.4: the current/
voltage curve for a
typical 120W solar
panel.
MAXIMUM
POWER
POINT
17.8V
16V
CURRENT LIMIT
THRESHOLD
14V
12V
CURRENT
LIMIT
SLOPE
10V
8V
6V
4V
0V
6.74A
2V
0
0.8
1.6
2.4
3.2
4.0
4.8
5.6
6.4
SHORT CIRCUIT
CURRENT
(Isc = 7.14A)
7.2
8.0
OUTPUT CURRENT (AMPS)
The 2-stage charging used for LiFePO4 batteries is shown in Fig.3 and
consists of bulk and absorption stages.
In fact, the bulk and absorption stages
are exactly the same as for lead-acid
batteries but there is no subsequent
float charge mode. We based these
modes on information to be found
at www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm
and similar websites.
Note that it is important that a cell
balancer is used when charging LiFePO4 batteries. We intend publishing
a suitable cell balancer in our March
2016 issue.
Charge indication
A LED indicator shows the charging
stage. It is on continuously for the bulk
charge mode; flashes on for 0.5s and off
for 0.5s for the absorption mode, and
flashes on for one second and off for
one second during float mode. If you
have a battery that has been discharged
below 10.5V, it will be charged with
short bursts of current until it reaches
10.5V whereupon bulk charging will
begin. This initial charging will be
indicated by a short flash of the charge
LED every four seconds.
MPPT operation
Fig.4 shows the output of a typical 12V solar panel. It will deliver
maximum current when the output is
shorted and maximum voltage when
32 Silicon Chip
the output is open-circuit (ie, no
load). So the maximum short circuit
current might be around 7.2A and the
maximum voltage can be anywhere
between 21.8V and 22.5V, or maybe
a little more. However, the maximum
power output for a nominal 12V 120W
panel will be between those extremes,
at a load current of 6.74A and a voltage
of 17.8V (or very close to those figures).
When we consider the power delivered to the battery, the story becomes
more interesting. If we were to connect the 120W solar panel directly to
the battery, the charge current would
be about 6.9A at 12V (ie, 82.8W) and
about 6.8A at 14.4V (ie, 97.9W). Both
these values are far less than the 120W
available from the solar panel when its
voltage is at 17.8V.
Ideally, the solar panel should be
operated at peak efficiency, to deliver
maximum power. And that is where
the Maximum Power Point Tracking
(MPPT) aspect of the controller comes
into play. It’s essentially a switchmode
step-down power converter, which
increases the available power from the
solar panel to the battery with minimal
power loss. At the same time, it provides the required 2-stage or 3-stage
charging to the battery.
Fig.5 shows how this takes place.
When Mosfet Q1 is closed, current
from the solar panel flows through
paralleled dual diode D1 and this is fil-
tered with two 2200µF capacitors. The
current (i1) flows through inductor L1
into the battery. The inductor charges
(ie, current rises to its maximum value)
and after a short period, Q1 is switched
off and the stored charge in L1 maintains current flow (i2) via paralleled
dual diode D2. The ratio of the on to
off period (duty cycle) for Q1 is controlled so that the solar panel delivers
the maximum available power.
The solar panel is not required
to supply the peak current into the
inductor as this is drawn from the
2200µF capacitors. Incidentally, these
capacitors are low ESR (effective series
resistance) types, suited to the switching frequency of 31.24kHz.
The voltage from the solar panel is
monitored by op amp lC2a while the
current is monitored by measuring the
voltage across a 0.01Ω shunt resistor.
This voltage is multiplied by -45 in
op amp lC2b which also acts as a low
pass filter. Both op amps feed their
signals to microcontroller IC1 and this
controls the whole circuit operation.
Circuit details
The full circuit for the Solar Lighting Controller is shown in Fig.6 and
is based around a PIC16F88 microcontroller, IC1. This monitors the solar
panel voltage and current signals from
IC2, a PIR sensor (if used), switch S1,
a light dependent resistor (LDR) and
an NTC thermistor and controls the
lighting using Mosfet Q4.
A 12V supply is provided for the
PIR sensor at CON2 via resistor R2
from the 12V battery supply. Many PIR
sensors can be operated from a 9-16V
supply and in these cases R2 can be a
wire link and zener diode ZD4 omitted. If the PIR sensor requires a fixed
12V supply, then R2 should be 270Ω
and zener diode ZD4 is included. For
24V operation, R2 should be 1.2kΩ.
A pushbutton switch (S1) is monitored by IC1’s RB1 input, normally
held high at 5V with a 100kΩ pull-up
resistor. Pressing the switch pulls the
RB1 input low. S1 is included for test
purposes but an external on/off (pushbutton) switch can be connected as
well, using two of CON2’s terminals.
The 100nF capacitor at RB1 prevents
interference from causing false switching when long leads are used to an
external switch.
Ambient light is monitored using a
light dependent resistor (LDR) at the
AN5 analog input of IC1. The LDR
siliconchip.com.au
Q1
D1
A
K
A
K
L1
FUSE
i1
F1
λ
12V/24V
SOLAR
PANEL
VOLTAGE DIVIDER
+
2x
2200 µF
25V
K
K
A
A
D2
i2
Q2, Q3
12V/24V
BATTERY
IC2a
BUFFER
PWM
V
0.01Ω
3W
IC2b
I
AN3
IC1
MICROCONTROLLER
BATTERY VOLTAGE
AN4
LOW-PASS FILTER
(GAIN = –45)
Fig.5: block diagram of the switchmode step-down MPPT Charge Controller. The ratio of the on-to-off period (duty
cycle) for Mosfet Q1 (shown here as a switch) is controlled by IC1 which acts in response to the solar panel’s current
and output voltage. This ensures that the solar panel delivers the maximum available power to the 12V or 24V battery.
forms a voltage divider with a seriesconnected 100kΩ resistor and trimpot
VR5, all across the 5V supply.
In normal daylight, the LDR is a low
resistance (about 10kΩ) but this rises
to over 1MΩ in darkness. Therefore,
the voltage at the AN5 input will be
inversely proportional to the ambient
light. If the voltage across LDR1 is below 2.5V, IC1 determines it is daylight;
above 2.5V it reads it as dark.
This measurement is made when
Mosfet Q5 is switched on, tying the
lower end of the LDR close to 0V. VR5
allows threshold adjustment of the
LDR sensitivity.
Link Options
There are three options available
for turning on the lighting: (1) only at
night; (2) only in daylight; and (3) both
day and night. The position of link JP1
selects the first two options, while the
third option operates with the link in
the night position but with the LDR
left out of circuit. The lamp can also be
switched on using pushbutton switch
S1 (internal or external), provided the
ambient light level is correct according
to the selection made with JP1.
When JP2 is in the PIR position, the
lamp can also be switched on when the
PIR detects movement; again dependent on ambient light, according to the
JP1 selection. If JP2 is set to the LDR
position, the PIR does not switch on
the lamp and the lamp is switched on
at the change of ambient light, day to
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
12V or 24V operation
120W/220W solar panel rating
120W/600W lighting
Lamps on with movement, on/off switch or with ambient light changes
3-stage charging for SLA batteries
2-stage charging for LiFEPO4 batteries
Switchmode charger operation with maximum power ponting tracking (MPPT)
Specifications
•
•
•
•
•
•
Lamp driver: up to 10A
•
•
Open or short circuit thermistor LED warning
•
•
Bulk charge initiation when battery drops below 12.7V
•
Charger: charging starts when solar panel output is >12V
Lamp Timer: 2s to 8 hours
Lamp switch on: PIR sensor or LDR light level sensor
Low battery cut-off voltage: 11V
Quiescent current: 2.2mA
Charge compensation: adjustable from 0 to 50mV per °C, reducing charge
voltage above 20°C and increasing below 20°C. No increase below 0°C. (SLA
only) (For LiFePO4 set at 0mV per °C)
Low battery charge LED indication: at less than 10.5V charging via a 6.25% duty
cycle charge burst (Charge indicator flashes 260ms each 4.2s)
Charge LED indicator: bulk charge = continuously lit; absorption = flashing 0.5s
on, 0.5s off; float = 1s on, 1s off
February 2016 33
Table 1: Lamp Operation Options
JP1
JP2
Lamp On
Lamp Off
Day to night transition, with
S1 or timer time-out
Night to day transition, with
S1 or timer time-out
Day position
LDR position
Night position
LDR position
Night to day transition. With S1 during
day
Day to night transition. With S1 during
night
Night position
LDR position and with the LDR
disconnected from CON3
S1 during day or night
Timer time-out or S1
Day position
PIR position
Night position
PIR position
Day to night transition, with
S1 or timer time-out
Night to day transition, with
S1 or timer time-out
Night position
PIR position and with the LDR
disconnected from CON3
PIR movement detection or with S1
during the day only
PIR movement detection or with S1
during the night only
PIR movement detection or with S1
during the day or night
night or night to day (again, dependent
upon JP1) – see Table 1.
Timer
Thelampcanalsobeswitchedoffusing
either a timer or the ambient light level.
The various options are summarised in
Table 1. The lamp ON period is adjustable using trimpot VR4, connected
between +5V and the drain of Q5.
When Q5 is switched on, the trimpot is effectively connected across
the 5V supply. The wiper voltage is
monitored at the AN0 input of IC1.
We’ll cover the procedure for adjusting VR4 later.
Lamp driver
The lamp or lamps are powered on
using Mosfet Q4. This is switched on
with gate voltage from the RB0 output
of IC1. Q4 is an IRF1405 and this can be
driven using a low-voltage gate signal
such as the 5V from IC1. The expected
voltage drop between drain and source
is around 0.12V when conducting 10A.
A small heatsink ensures that this
Mosfet runs relatively cool.
Note that if an inverter is to be
controlled, Q4 is used to switch a
heavy-duty relay.
Charging
For charging, we use the switchmode
step-down circuit previously described
in Fig.5. Mosfet Q1 is a P-channel type
that switches on with a gate voltage that
is negative with respect to its source.
The voltage at Q1’s source (from the
solar panel and diode D1) can range
up to about 22V when the solar panel
is not delivering current.
D1 is a twin-diode package which
has the advantage that both diodes
are closely matched for forward voltage, since they are both on the same
34 Silicon Chip
silicon die. This means that they will
share current equally when they are
connected in parallel, to give a total
rating of 20A.
Mosfet Q1 is controlled by NPN
transistor Q3 that’s driven by the PWM
output at pin 9 of ICI via a 100Ω resistor. Q3’s emitter is connected to ground
via another 100Ω resistor. With about
5V at Q3’s base, the emitter is at about
4.3V and so there is 43mA through its
collector. When Q3 is on, Mosfet Q1’s
gate is pulled negative with respect to
its source via diode D3 and the 10Ω
resistor, thus switching Q1 on. Q1’s
gate is protected from voltages in excess of 18V (which could damage it) by
zener diode ZD3. Q3’s emitter resistor
is set at 100Ω so that ZD3’s current is
limited to 43mA.
While ever Q3 is on, NPN transistor
Q2 is off since the base is one diode
drop below the emitter, due to D3 being
forward biased. Conversely, when IC1
switches Q3 off, Q2’s base is pulled to
Q1’s source voltage via a 1kΩ resistor.
This switches Q2 on, pulling Q1’s gate
to its source and thus switching it off.
Q1 is switched on and off by IC1 at
31.24kHz.
Voltage/temperature monitoring
The battery voltage is monitored
at lC1’s AN2 input via optocoupler
OPTO1 and a resistive divider comprising a 22kΩ resistor and 20kΩ
trimpot VR2. This divider is adjusted
using VR2 so that the voltage appearing at AN2 is actually 0.3125 times the
battery voltage.
The reason for this is so that the
5V limit of analog input AN2 is not
exceeded. For example, a 15V battery
voltage will be converted to just 4.69V.
We’ll cover this in the setting-up procedure later.
Timer time-out or with S1
The resistive divider is not directly
connected to the battery but via the
transistor within optocoupler OPTO1
and this connects the battery voltage to
the divider whenever the LED within
OPTO1 is on. The collector-emitter
voltage of the transistor has a minimal
effect on the battery voltage measurement, as it is only around 200µV.
The divided voltage is converted to a
digital value by IC1. The optocoupler’s
LED is driven from the 5V supply
through a 470Ω resistor to 0V when
Mosfet Q5 is switched on.
The NTC thermistor forms a voltage
divider with a 10kΩ resistor across the
supply when Q5 is switched on. IC1’s
AN6 input monitors this voltage and
converts it to a value in degrees Celsius. At the same time, IC1’s AN1 input
monitors the setting of trimpot VR3.
This trimpot is effectively connected across the 5V supply when Q5
is switched on. The AN1 input voltage
is converted to a mV/°C value and this
can range from 0mV/°C when VR3 is
set to 0V to 50mV/°C when VR3 is
set for 5V.
Power saving
As mentioned, Mosfet Q5 connects
trimpots VR3 and VR4, the LDR and
the NTC to 0V and also powers the
optocoupler LED. Q5 is powered on
with a 5V signal from the RB5 output
of IC1. The Mosfet then momentarily
connects these sensors to 0V so that
microcontroller IC1 can measure the
values. When Q5 is off, these trimpots,
sensors and battery divider are disconnected from the supply to reduce
battery drain.
One problem with using Q5 to make
the 0V connection for the trimpots, battery and sensors is that these sampled
voltages cannot be easily measured
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 35
A
K
S1
10k
ZD4
12V
100nF
8.2k
5
4
IC2b
100nF
SEE TEXT
(1.2k)
1
1W
ZD2
30V
7
+12V
IC2: LM358
470pF
IC2a
R2 270Ω
6
68k
2
3
8
A
K
A2
100nF
R1
100k
2.2k
2.2k
35V
10 µF
E
A
K
Q3
TIP31C
100Ω
C
D3
1k
1W
DAY
100k
NIGHT
PIR
LDR
JP1
+5V
SOLAR PANEL CURRENT MONITOR
SOLAR PANEL VOLTAGE MONITOR
100Ω
B
63V (24V)
2 x 470 µF
25V (12V)
2 x 2200 µF
SOLAR CHARGE/LIGHTING CONTROLLER
GND
SIGNAL
+
3W
0.01Ω
1.5k
12V 120W OR
24V 220W
SOLAR PANEL
100nF
100Ω
(1k)
K
JP2
1k
B
RB1
RB2
RA6
RA7
A
RA2/AN2
K
K
5
Vss
RB0
RB4
RB5
RB6
TP2
470Ω
S
2N7000
G
11
12
17
18
13
D
RA0/AN0
RA1/AN1
RB7/AN6
1
6
+5V
100 µF
TP1
TPGND
D
10
10Ω
100nF
G
IC1
PIC16F88
PIC1
6F8 8
AN4/RA4
AN3/RA3
PWM/RB3
ZD1 – ZD4
A
Vdd
14
1W
S
ZD3
18V
MCLR/RA5
100nF
A
K
D3: 1N4148
7
8
15
16
3
2
9
4
E
Q2
BC337 C
Q1 SUP53P06-20
TP3
E
10nF
B
C
BC337
VR3
10k
10Ω
LED1
REF
REG1
TL499A
5
+5V
A1
4
K
A2
7
10Ω
100k
D1, D2
VR5
500k
VR4
10k
VR2
20k
SW IN
K
λ
A
K
C
G
S
D
2
1
E
TIP31C
470Ω
B
1nF
4
5
3
6
SERIES 1
IN
100nF
X2
SW REG
IN2
SW CUR
GND CTRL PGND
OUT
100nF
X2
22k (51k)
+5V
2
8
D2
MBR20100CT
4.7k
A2
10nF
K
λ
A
VR1
20k
TP4
A1
K
L1: 5 µH (12V)
10 µH (24)
C
Q5
2N7000
10k
G
OPTO1
4N28
+12V
1W
ZD1
30V
330Ω
+12V
G
K
A
LED
D
S
+
D
LDR
NTC
–
LAMP
CON3
Q4
IRF1405N
Q1, Q4
S
D
CON1
F
CON1
E
CON1
D
12V (24V)
BATTERY
CON1
C
F1
10A
Fig.6: the full circuit for the 12V/24V Solar Lighting Controller is based on PIC16F88 microcontroller IC1. This monitors the solar panel voltage and current
signals from IC2, a PIR sensor (if used), switch S1, a light dependent resistor (LDR) and a NTC thermistor. The resulting PWM (pulse width modulation) output
on pin 9 of IC1 then drives power Mosfet Q1 via transistors Q3 & Q2 to control the charge current for the battery, while Q4 controls the lighting.
SC
20 1 6
λ
+
CON2
TO EXT
SWITCH
TO PIR
SENSOR
CON1
B
CON1
A
4.7k
22k
(47k)
A1
D1 MBR20100CT
Parts List: Solar MPPT Charger/Lighting Controller
1 double-sided PCB, code
16101161, 141 x 112mm
1 diecast box 171 x 121 x 55mm
(Jaycar HB5046)
1 6-way PC-mount screw terminal
block (Altronics P2106) (CON1)
1 3-way PC-mount screw termin
al block, 5.08mm pin spacing
(CON2)
3 2-way PC mount screw terminals 5.08mm pin spacing
(CON2,CON3)
1 powdered-iron toroid 28 x 14 x
11mm (Jaycar LO-1244)
1 SPST PC mount tactile membrane switch with 3.5 or 4.3mm
actuator (S1) (Altronics S1120,
Jaycar SP0602)
1 10kΩ NTC thermistor (Altronics R4290, Jaycar RN3440 or
equivalent)
1 LDR with 10kΩ light resistance,
1MΩ dark resistance (Altronics Z1621, Jaycar RD3480 or
equivalent)
2 IP68 cable glands for 8mm
cable
1 IP68 cable gland for 6.5mm
cable
1 DIL18 IC socket
2 M205 PC mount fuse clips
1 10A M205 fast blow fuse (F1)
1 TO-220 U shaped heatsink, 19 x
19 x 10mm
1 M3 x 10mm machinescrew
4 TO-220 silicone insulation washers
4 TO-220 insulating bushes
4 M3 x 12mm machine screws
5 M3 nuts
2 3-way pin headers with 2.54mm
pin spacings (JP1,JP2)
2 jumper shunts for pin headers
2 100mm cable ties
1 3m length of 0.5mm enamelled
copper wire
1 50mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire (for PIR, see text)
4 PC stakes
with a multimeter. This is because a
multimeter will not capture the voltage
when Q5 switches on momentarily.
And we do need to measure some of
these voltages for setting up.
For example, we need to be able to
set VR2 so that the battery divider is
correct and we need to measure the
timer and mV/°C values as set with
VR4 and VR3. So in order to make
these measurements, Q5 is switched
on while ever S1 is pressed.
Other power saving techniques include driving the charge LED (LED1)
from the solar panel instead of the bat-
tery. The only time this LED will light
using battery power is if the thermistor
is open or short circuit. In these cases,
the LED flashes at a low duty cycle,
again conserving power.
Op amp lC2 is also powered from
the solar panel, because we only want
to measure the solar panel voltage and
current when solar power is available.
Therefore, IC2 is fed via a 100Ω series
resistor for a 12V panel and a 1kΩ resistor in the case of a 24V panel. Zener
diode ZD2 limits the voltage to 30V.
Diode D1 prevents the battery from
powering IC2 via Q1’s internal diode
36 Silicon Chip
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller
programmed with 1610116A.hex
(IC1).
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 4N28 optocoupler (OPTO1)
1 TL499A regulator (REG1)
1 SUP53P06-20 P channel Mosfet
(Q1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 TIP31C NPN transistor (Q3)
1 IRF1405N N-channel Mosfet
(Q4)
1 2N7000 N-channel Mosfet (Q5)
2 MBR20100CT fast dual diode
(D1,D2)
1 1N4148 diode (D3)
2 30V 1W zener diodes (ZD1,ZD2)
1 18V 1W zener diode (ZD3)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD4) (for
12V PIR, see text)
1 3mm high intensity LED (LED1)
Capacitors
2 2200µF 25V low-ESR PC electrolytic (12V version)
2 470µF 63V low ESR electrolytic
(24V version)
1 100µF 16V
1 10µF 35V
6 100nF MKT polyester
2 100nF X2 class Metallised Polypropylene
2 10nF MKT polyester
1 1nF MKT polyester
1 470pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kΩ (R1) – see text
2 100kΩ
1 68kΩ
1 47kΩ (24V version)
1 51k (24V version)
2 22kΩ (12V version)
2 10kΩ
1 8.2kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
2 2.2kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
1 1.2kΩ (use for 24V supply with
12V PIR see text)
1 1kΩ (24V version)
1 1kΩ 1W
1 1kΩ
2 470Ω
1 330Ω
1 270Ω (for 12V PIR, see text)
2 100Ω
1 100Ω (12V version)
3 10Ω
1 0.01Ω 3W resistor (Jaycar RR3420)
Trimpots
2 10kΩ mini horizontal trimpots
(103) (VR3,VR4)
2 20kΩ mini horizontal trimpots
(203) (VR1,VR2)
1 500kΩ mini horizontal trimpot
(504) (VR5)
Miscellaneous
1 12V or 24V SLA or LiFePO4
battery
1 12V (up to 120W) or 24V (up to
220W) solar panel array
12V lamps suitable for 14.4V use
1 12V PIR (eg, Altronics S5314A)
10A cable, battery clips, shielded
cable, heatshrink tubing
and L1. The solar panel voltage is monitored using a 22kΩ and 4.7kΩ voltage
divider, while a 100nF capacitor filters
any transient voltages or noise that
could be induced through long leads
from the panel. IC2a is connected as
a unity-gain buffer and its output is
applied to the AN3 input of IC1.
As noted previously, current from
the solar panel is measured by the voltage developed across a 0.01Ω shunt
resistor. This is around 70mV for a
current of 7A. The voltage developed
across the shunt is negative and this is
inverted and amplified by IC2b, which
siliconchip.com.au
Building the Solar Charger & Lighting Controller is easy, with all parts mounted on a single PCB. This is housed in a
diecast metal case which provides the necessary heatsinking. The full assembly details are in Pt2 next month.
has a gain of -45. Therefore lC2b’s output will be around 315mV per 1A of
current from the solar panel. This output is applied to the AN4 input of IC1
via a 2.2kΩ current-limiting resistor.
Note that the actual calibration of
voltage and current is not particularly
important. The software within IC1
multiplies the voltage and current
readings obtained at the AN3 and AN4
inputs to find where the maximum
power point is for the solar panel
This calculation is not after any particular value but just the maximum in
a series of power calculations. It does
this calculation periodically (once
every 20 seconds) and varies the on/
off duty cycle of Mosfet Q1 to find the
duty cycle that provides the maximum
power from the solar panels.
Power for the remainder of the Solar
Lighting Controller circuit comes from
the 12V battery via REG1, a TL499A
regulator. This is a low quiescent current type that can run as a linear stepdown regulator and as a switchmode
step-up regulator. We have used it as
a 12V to 5V linear regulator, with the
output voltage trimmed using VR1 to
as close to 5V as possible. This then
calibrates the analog to digital conversion within IC1, ensuring correct
charging voltages for the battery.
Protection against reverse polarity
connection of both the 12V battery
and solar panel are included. If the
solar panel is connected with reverse
polarity, IC2 is protected because ZD2
will conduct in its forward direction,
preventing more than 0.6V reverse
voltage from being applied across its
pin 4 and pin 8 supply rails. D1 prevents reverse voltage from the solar
panel being applied to the remainder
of the circuit. Finally, should the battery be connected back to front, D2 will
conduct via inductor L1 and the fuse
will blow, breaking the connection.
Next month, we’ll cover full constructional details and set-up proceSC
dure.
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February 2016 37
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Batteries need careful maintenance
Batteries used in aircraft must be carefully
maintained, as I learnt during my time as an
apprentice in NZ with our national airline.
In that role, they undergo regular service
checks but they are often the forgotten item
in consumer electronic equipment where they
are left to leak and cause all sorts of damage.
Many years ago, as a “wet-behindthe-ears” avionics apprentice, I spent
some of my training time in a section
of the engineering workshops colloquially called the “battery room”. This
part of the avionics department was
separate from the main areas we were
usually posted to, such as the instrument or radio shops, and although not
totally isolated from the rest of the
world, it was a bit off the beaten track
in the hanger.
Because of this (and due to some
other perks), the battery room was
regarded as one of the more laid-back
38 Silicon Chip
postings an apprentice could get,
especially considering the pressure
we were all under to cram in as much
knowledge and experience as we could
in our 10,000 hours of training (and
regurgitate it all later during our various trade exams!).
The elderly engineer who ran the
battery room at the time was wellknown for his grandfatherly demeanour but he didn’t suffer fools gladly.
As a result, most apprentices were
more than a little intimidated when
it was their turn for a tour of duty in
“his” section.
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
Dave gets a charge out of
batteries
Battery-powered buggy repair:
fixing “The Duck”
Gas furnance repairs: persist
ence pays
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
The battery room actually consisted
of two rooms; one for lead-acid batteries and one for nickel-cadmium types,
both flavours being used in different
aircraft in the fleet at the time. These
rooms were right next door to each
other but separated to prevent crosscontamination. To that end, there were
two sets of tools and other gear, along
with machines, jigs and safety equipment specific to the types of battery in
each room.
Not many people realise that batteries are used in large aircraft. However,
the set-up isn’t like the system used in
cars, where there is one 12V lead-acid
battery whose main task is to power the
starter motor to start the engine.
On the contrary; although there
are typically one or two main batteries in larger aircraft, they are rarely
used to start the engines. Instead, a
GPU (Ground Power Unit) is usually
plugged into an aircraft with electric
starter motors and this unit can usually
be observed connected via a heavyduty cable into the side of the plane
during the start-up procedure. It’s then
removed (hopefully!) before the plane
leaves the apron.
If no GPU is available, the on-board
battery can supply enough “juice”
to start an engine though once that
engine is up and running, power (or
air pressure if it is that type of starter)
generated by the first engine is then
used to start any others.
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Apart from that main battery, which
is typically a 24V unit, there could be
literally hundreds of other batteries (of
various types) on board. You can find
batteries in everything from emergency
lighting to torches and radio beacons
and, of course, there are also batteries in
the so-called black boxes; the flight data
recorders that are actually painted DayGlo orange to make them more visible.
What’s more, due to the superior battery technology that’s been developed
since I worked for the airline, there
would be even more battery-powered
devices used in planes these days.
Watches were verboten
When a new guy turned up for his
first day in the battery room, the first
thing the old engineer did was to ask
for the time. The unwary apprentice,
thinking he was doing well because
he’d turned up 10 minutes early in
order to make a good first impression,
would then look at his watch to proudly announce his punctuality only to
be shot down for breaking one of the
cardinal rules of the battery room: no
watches or jewellery allowed!
While jewellery of any type was actively discouraged in all the different
engineering sections, for obvious (and
not so obvious) reasons, it was completely banned in the battery room.
Batteries and metal don’t mix all that
well and getting a watch band or ring
across one or more of the exposed cell
links of a Nicad or lead-acid battery
could really ruin your day. Indeed, the
image of a white-hot ring melting the
finger it was attached to it was enough
to remind me every morning to remove
whatever “bling” I happened to be
wearing at the time.
And the rules didn’t stop there;
the airline was always fastidious
about safety and you had to wear the
appropriate gear for the job. What’s
more, there was none of that typical
“macho-bullying” I’d observed in
other workplaces, where people were
called all manner of derogatory names
just for wearing ear-muffs, gloves or
safety goggles.
It was the exact opposite at the airline; the various foremen around the
hangar didn’t take any rubbish safetygear wise, especially from apprentices
who, by their very nature, sometimes
thought they knew everything! It was
very simple – you either wore the
correct safety gear or you didn’t get
to work there.
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I really liked that workplace spirit;
I’ve met too many people suffering
from industrial deafness to forego
wearing ear-muffs and I know one guy
who lost an eye when a hammer he was
using chipped. He’d still have both
eyes if he had been wearing goggles!
Aircraft batteries
The aircraft batteries I worked with
were high-capacity types made up of
individual cells. A typical 24V Nicad
battery consisted of twenty 1.2V cells
all linked together in series and arranged so that they’d all fit neatly into
a relatively-compact steel container.
The links tying all these cells together
are made of heavy-gauge steel and are
torqued to a specific value before being coated in a jelly-type substance to
reduce corrosion.
As you’d expect, the tools used on
these batteries were specialised and
well-insulated and that brings me to
another rule that was enforced: no
outside or “foreign” tools were to be
used in the battery room. In fact, the
old engineer liked to bring out three
examples of tools that had fallen foul
of batteries to illustrate what could
happen if we were careless. One was
a crescent (or shifting spanner in Australia) and the other two were sockets
but you could barely recognise them
as the original tools.
My guess is that they would have
made a very impressive display as
they were transformed and I remember
clearly thinking I didn’t want to be the
guy associated with adding another
melted tool to the rogue’s gallery.
Although insulated tools certainly
helped, the real key to battery maintenance was due diligence. In short (no
pun intended), you needed to pay full
attention when working on or around
batteries. Each cell might only be 1.2V
but it could deliver a huge amount of
current and if you got something metal
across a few of them, you could end
up with up an explosive situation and
another ruined spanner!
Regular testing
Like all aircraft components, batteries have a finite life cycle and endure
a regular testing schedule during that
time. If a cell started failing, it was
replaced as soon as any anomalies
were detected. A battery didn’t have
to spend any particular amount of its
scheduled time between checks in an
aircraft either; even if it sat on a shelf
awaiting use, it still regularly came
back to the battery room for the usual
capacity and leakage tests.
These tests typically entailed hooking the battery up to what was then a
very advanced battery/cell analyser
that would discharge the cells at a
given load current. In practice, the
battery’s cells were manually (and very
carefully) connected to the analyser
using 20 large insulated alligator-type
clips. Once the test started, an engineer
would carefully monitor each cell as it
discharged. Any cell that didn’t make
the grade was replaced, thereby keeping the battery up to specification.
Once a cell had been in service for
a certain number of hours, regardless
as to whether that time was spent on
the shelf or in an aircraft or whether it
passed the tests or not, it was replaced
February 2016 39
Serviceman’s Log – continued
spreading underneath. At that point all
sorts of protocols had to be followed
and this in-part entailed noisy alarms
and an evacuation of that section of
the hangar.
This resulted in about 100 engineers
standing out in the car park, grumbling and cursing all apprentices. A
subsequent investigation found that
the acid’s chemical reaction with the
water caused so much heat to build up
in the pile that had it melted through
the bottom of the vat. Over the years,
this vat had gradually thinned out
with use and it was just my luck that
it finally failed on the day I was the
one mixing the electrolyte.
As I said, it wasn’t really my fault!
In any case, I didn’t get into too much
trouble for it but working in the battery
room did give me a healthy respect for
batteries and what they can do.
Recent jobs
and discarded. This meant that there
was an almost-constant supply of
some of the best-quality Nicad cells
money could buy available to those
who wanted them.
And people really did want them,
including boaties, modellers, campers, car-guys, solar-energy buffs and
hobbyists. Anyone who wanted cells
could put their names down on a list,
which made the battery room guys
very popular. We were especially
popular on winter days when car batteries would go flat and a jump-start
was required.
In fact, we had a specially made
starter-pack for just this purpose and
I made some good inter-departmental
relationships that way. It was always
handy to get to know the people in
the stores or the machine shop, or the
paint shop – you get the idea. It seems
a bit silly now after all these years but
those life-expired Nicad cells were
highly sought after at the time and
probably still are.
The lead-acid batteries, of course,
had a completely different life cycle
and maintenance schedule. They were
also assembled differently and thus
needed different tools, test gear and
handling. They probably don’t use
them at all now but back then they
were used on some of the older planes
in the fleet and life-expired lead-acid
batteries were also very popular with
the spot-lighters and boaties.
As can be imagined, we also had to
40 Silicon Chip
take care of the acids and electrolytes
for these batteries. We made up the
mixtures ourselves in the lead-acid
room in a huge, hard-plastic vat specially made for the job. To get the right
specific gravity, we had to weigh bags
of concentrated acid crystals and then
add them to distilled water until we
got it just right (distilled/purified water was another prized perk from the
battery room due to the large purifier/
distiller we operated there).
Unfortunately, the first time I did
this, things didn’t quite work out as
planned. After getting dressed up in
all the safety gear and going through
the mixing procedure, the result was
an evacuation of the hangar!
It wasn’t actually my fault; well,
not entirely. I was with the base foreman at the time and he was showing
me the ropes. We did everything as it
was always done and when I added
the crystals, I poured them into one
big pile in the middle of the vat, as
I was instructed to do. As we started
stirring the mixture with large wooden
paddles, I noticed that the water level
appeared to be dropping. I mentioned
this to the foreman and he suddenly
looked very concerned.
The floor in both battery rooms consisted of concrete covered in a layer
of anti-static, plastic duck-boarding
and we had to peer carefully through
the gaps in the boards below the vat
to confirm our fears; there was an increasing pool of partially-mixed acid
Where’s all this leading to? Well, just
recently, I had a run of jobs through the
workshop that involved batteries. The
first was a trail camera that had been
stored with its batteries inside it and
they had eventually leaked, corroding
part of the circuit board. I rebuilt it,
replacing damaged components and
PCB tracks in the process, and it all
worked again.
Fortunately, I could see what the
components were and could replace
them. However, some jobs aren’t as
clear cut as that.
For example, a customer recently
brought in an older-style radio, probably from the late 70s to early 80s era.
It was a beautifully-made multi-band
portable model that used to be all the
rage and I recall that this particular
model was advertised in all the magazines of the day.
As with the trail camera, the owner
had stored it with the batteries inside
it and they had eventually leaked and
made a real mess. Since they don’t
make radios quite like this any more,
the owner wanted to know if I could do
anything with it. I told him what I tell
all clients in this position; that I’d clean
it up and repair it as best I could but the
reality is that the material leaking out of
most batteries is corrosive and it could
have ruined things beyond repair.
As with any battery-damaged device,
I start by slipping on protective gloves
(I use heavy-duty nitrile mechanic’s
gloves). I then place a rag on the bench
to protect it from what I’m working on.
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That done, I remove the batteries from
the device but I don’t just chuck them
in the bin, as many servicemen probably do. Instead, I put them aside for
when I go to the refuse station, where
I can dispose of them in the hazardous
materials container.
This particular radio used four Csize cells in a plastic battery holder
and the whole assembly was covered
in nasty sludge. As a result, I simply
cut the wires from the holder and put
the lot in a zip-lock bag, ready for
disposal. I already had a new holder
sitting in my parts drawer, so I could
afford to lose this one and not spend
time trying to clean it up.
Unfortunately, the leaked material had also contaminated the circuit
board in a couple of areas. I made up
a solution of vinegar and water and
scrubbed the affected area with an
old toothbrush, then used isopropyl
alcohol to further clean up after that.
A few PCB tracks in the affected area
had been corroded but were electrically still intact. However, some tracks
had been eaten away completely. These
were repaired using two “twistedtogether” strands of wire pulled from
hook-up wire, with the strands following the original track path where
possible.
Once everything had been soldered
into place and the cells replaced, I
checked the radio out and it worked
perfectly. I then finished the job by
mixing up some 5-minute epoxy and
applying a thin layer over the repaired
area on the PCB. That should protect
the repairs and hopefully last the life
of the radio.
Another similar job involved a pair
of leaking AAA Nicads in a remote
control. This remote was for a vintage
Japanese CD player and the device
couldn’t be operated properly without it.
As with the previous two jobs, the
cells had leaked onto the circuit board
and so the remote no longer worked,
even with fresh batteries. This time,
after removing the PCB, I used a solution of bicarbonate of soda to neutralise
and clean up the chemical spillage. In
this case, no tracks had corroded but a
small capacitor had come away from
the board. Unfortunately, there were
no leads left on this capacitor and no
markings were visible but it looked
very much like a 10nF capacitor I had
in my parts bin.
After soldering it in and reassemsiliconchip.com.au
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bling the unit, I tested the remote by
looking at it via the viewfinder of my
Sony Handicam. Sure enough, there
were flashes on the viewfinder’s screen
each time a button was pressed, indicating that the remote’s infrared LED
was working (this technique also works
with digital cameras, including those
on smart phones).
When the customer subsequently
brought his CD player around, it all
worked perfectly, so chalk up another
success. However, I have to admit that
this was more a case of blind luck
rather than skill.
And the moral of this story: always
remember to remove the cells when
storing or not using battery-powered
devices for some time. It’s a lot easier
than cleaning up after a leak!
Battery-powered buggy
If it walks like a duck, quacks like
a duck and has feathers like a duck,
then you’ve probably got a duck. G. M.
of Pukekohe, NZ recently got a duck
going again but this one didn’t quack
and had wheels instead of feathers . . .
Over the last 15 years, my work
has changed from domestic audio
and video appliance repairs to mostly
light industrial electronic repair work.
However, I still do domestic work for
my more senior clients who can’t bring
themselves to throw out stuff which
has given 20 years of service because
it “must still have some life in it”.
That said, I try to restrict such work
to appliances which are expensive to
replace, such as large-screen TVs and
quality hifi equipment, or items which
are not readily replaceable such as the
odd VCR, 8mm projectors and goodquality turntables.
The fate of pretty much everything
else is often decided when I point out
that a non-refundable deposit is required before any work is commenced.
In the end, wisdom usually prevails
and the deposit is instead invested in
a new appliance. Sure it means doing
myself out of a few dollars on such
occasions but there’s no point trying
to service cheap “stuff”. Retaining my
sanity is much more important, especially since the older I get, the less of
it I seem to have!
My light industrial work includes
supplying, installing and servicing PA
systems, band equipment, background
music sound systems, battery chargers which may be specific to a piece
of equipment and motor controllers
which may be difficult or expensive to
replace. Now that the word is around
that I take on that type of work, it just
keeps coming in.
One thing that has allowed me to
attempt such repair work is the internet. Since many items that come in
the door are not very common (and
often it may be the first and last time
I’ll ever see one), a quick assessment
is required to determine whether the
job is likely to be viable.
It never ceases to amaze me what
can be mined from the internet,
the list including schematics, spare
parts sources and snippets of useful
information from discussion forums.
Within an hour or two of opening up an
item, I can usually provide the owner
with an assessment and I’ll either give
a “ball-park” estimate as to the repair
cost or I’ll “pull the pin” on the job
and give the equipment back with an
invoice for my time.
I currently do a lot of regular repair
work for a large glasshouse which
covers several hectares. Middle management staff have bicycles at their
disposal to efficiently move around the
complex. However, the maintenance
man often needs to lug tools and equipment with him and may need to travel
half a kilometre within the glasshouse
to get to the job at hand.
In view of that, a bicycle was hardly
practicable so the company purchased
a second-hand battery-powered buggy.
This machine had been imported from
the UK many years before and no-one
is sure of its past life. Some think it
may have been a golf-cart, while others think it may have been an airport
baggage tug. I’m more inclined to think
February 2016 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Now for something completely
different – central heating furnaces.
D. M. of Box Hill, Victoria has solved
a few problems with these furnaces,
often saving a perfectly good unit
from the scrapheap . . .
It is often said that “they don’t
make them like they used to”. That’s
often true and while modern technology is more advanced, today’s
manufactured products often have
short lifetimes because they are
designed to be replaced before they
start to wear out and require repair.
Older products, on the other hand,
can often be inexpensively repaired
and kept going for a very long time.
In Victoria, many homes have gasfired ducted central heating. In this
system, a central furnace heats incoming air and it is then distributed
about the house through ductwork.
The furnace consists of gas burners
with spark ignition (or a pilot light
in older systems), a heat exchanger
to heat the incoming air (using a
gas flame and a plenum chamber
to collect the heated air), a blower
to distribute the heated air, a gas
control valve and safety features
such as a flame sensor to ensure no
gas is released if there is no flame.
There is also an external thermostat
connected to the gas control valve to
control the temperature, usually by
turning the gas flame and blower off
and on as necessary.
Overall, gas central heating furnaces are relatively simple devices
and the main components that might
need replacement such as the gas
control valve and thermostat are
often standard items and not specific
to a certain brand.
Over the years, I’ve had several
experiences with the repair of these
units. The first was when a female
friend told me that her central heating had not worked for years. As a
result, she had placed expensive-torun electric heaters in all rooms to
keep warm.
It turned out that she had been
told by a licensed repairer that her
20-year old furnace needed replacing at a cost of around $7000. I
looked at the heater and it seemed
to be functioning but very little air
was coming out of the vents. I then
noticed that the return air-duct filter
had been completely blocked with
dust and once that had been cleared,
it functioned perfectly.
The second experience was when
a heater on my own property stopped
working. The blower had stopped
operating and so warm air wasn’t
being circulated and the unit was
shutting down as a safety measure.
When told the age of the unit, several
licensed repairers refused to even
look at it and said simply that the
entire unit would need to be replaced
at a cost of about $3000.
Despite being built in 1970, the
unit appeared to be in sound condition. In the end, I decided to take a
look at it myself. I soon determined
that the fan blower bearings had
seized and after replacing them, the
unit worked perfectly again.
It continued working until it
developed another problem about
20 years later. This time, the flame
wouldn’t come on at all as no gas
was being released into the burners.
Again, the licensed repairers I contacted weren’t interested in looking
at such an old unit so I again decided
to see what I could do.
The problem this time was a faulty
gas control valve. This is a standard
Honeywell unit and costs about $300
from local suppliers. In the end, an
equivalent modern model was purchased via eBay from the USA for
about $110 delivered. A plumber
friend then installed the valve as gas
work requires a license.
The unit again works perfectly and
is expected to do so for many more
years to come.
My third experience relates to
another friend who has a central
heating furnace, again about 20 years
old. As before, numerous licensed
repairers would not look at the unit
and told him that it would need
replacing.
This friend is a qualified electronics technician and he quickly
determined that the gas control valve
was faulty. I discussed the problem
with him and helped track down a
source for the spare part. His problem
now is to find a licensed technician
prepared to install it for him.
A fourth experience involved a
furnace on a different property of
mine. An electronic control module
failed and replacement units were
about $300. This module isn’t hard
wired but is connected via terminal
blocks and so is easily removed.
A Melbourne company called the
“Module Repair Service” (www.
modulerepair.com.au/) repaired the
module for less than $100 and it’s
the latter as it is a three-wheeled vehicle with a tow bar and I don’t think it
would have been very stable on even
the more gentle slopes of a golf course
let alone the more-rugged verges where
my ball usually ends up!
Whatever its history, it had been
a reliable tool of the business for
many years now and is affectionately
referred to as “The Duck” due to its
appearance. Recently, however, it
decided to quit. One minute it was
working and the next minute it just
stopped, with no power to the electric
motor despite the gauges indicating
that the battery had sufficient charge.
I was not completely unfamiliar
with “The Duck”, having done some
basic work on the steering column
controls a couple of years earlier,
so that apparently “qualified” me to
tackle this new problem. When I arrived, “The Duck” was plugged into
its charger, so I unplugged it and lifted
the seat and housing clear to access
the batteries and electronic circuitry.
Power for the buggy is provided by
two banks of deep-cycle cells, each
bank consisting of 12 x 2V cells, thus
giving a total of 48V. This all sits in a
steel box, the volume of which would
be equivalent to eight medium-sized
car batteries, so it is a store of considerable energy. The batteries are almost
certainly the originals and are at least
20 years old, so they have given good
service. However, they are now starting to look a bit weathered.
When I last serviced “The Duck”, I
checked the batteries and found that
most of the cells required quite a large
top-up of distilled water. In fact, some
Gas furnace repairs: persistence pays
42 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
now better than new. That’s because
they are familiar with its failure
modes and they replace both those
parts that have failed and those that
are likely to fail with uprated parts.
After the repair, the furnace worked
perfectly.
A final experience was with a large
installation at a school. It had a 1960s
furnace that was originally fuelled
by oil but had later been converted
to gas and it circulated hot water to
radiators in the classrooms. It was
of massive cast-iron construction
and different to the types of furnaces
discussed above.
Several licensed technicians advised that the unit was unrepairable
and had to be replaced at a huge
expense. Eventually though, we
managed to find a company that was
prepared to take the job on. Their
licensed technicians repaired the furnace by replacing defective fire bricks
and the furnace was safely fixed.
In summary, repairing these central heating furnaces can often be
both simple and inexpensive and
there is usually no need to replace
the unit at great expense. Unfortunately though, many licensed
repairers seem to have no interest in
simple and inexpensive repairs and
simply recommend replacement of
the entire unit. One wonders how
many people have spent thousands
of dollars to replace a furnace when
a repair could have been done for
hundreds of dollars.
Finally, a word of warning: for
obvious safety reasons, gas furnace
repairs should only be carried out by
a licensed technician. If such work
is required, persist until you find
a repairer prepared to do the work
rather than replace the entire unit.
consumed close to a litre, so they had
been somewhat neglected. I brought
the importance of regular battery
checks to the maintenance man’s attention at the time and left it at that,
as the batteries otherwise seemed to
be in good order.
The first thing I did now was to
check a few of the cells and I found
that they were all nicely topped up.
However, this may have just been done
before I called, to avoid a good-natured
ribbing from me. I’ll never really know,
of course, but I have my suspicions.
siliconchip.com.au
A Honeywell gas control valve
similar to the replacement unit (the
original 1970 part number was not
available but this is an equivalent
unit). A licensed plumber is required
to install this part but most technicians are not prepared to do such a
basic repair on older equipment.
This Brivis TEK321 ducted heater
controller was repaired using uprated components, making it better
than new. A qualified technician was
eventually found to replace this part
as well.
The next step was to check the battery voltage and it read exactly 48V,
so all appeared to be OK there. In
hindsight though, this was the first
big clue as to what the fault might be
but I missed it!
After jacking the machine clear
of the floor, I popped the lid on the
control circuit box and, following
a quick visual check, turned on the
power and prepared to carry out a few
tests. A minute or so later, the direction solenoids began to intermittently
chatter and buzz, sometimes pulling
hard on and at other times almost but
not quite getting there. However, they
should not have been operating at all
yet, let alone both at once.
Normally, these solenoids operate
one at a time in order to reverse polarity to the motor for forward or reverse
direction – and then only just before a
drive signal is applied to the gates of
a bank of heavy-duty Mosfets which
control the acceleration. In this case
though, pressing the accelerator had
absolutely no affect.
I prodded and poked around the
control PCB without result, which
suggested that it wasn’t a dry joint or
connection issue. Instead, it seemed
that something in the circuit was
producing a severe amount of random
noise, because the voltages around
the solenoid drive transistors were
fluctuating wildly. By now, the battery
voltage had dropped a volt but that
seemed insignificant as it was now
powering the control circuitry, etc.
Unfortunately, the conditions I was
working under were far from ideal
due to poor light and background machinery noise. I was also working in a
stooped position and lacked suitable
test equipment for tracking down
such a fault. As a result, I powered
everything down and removed “The
Duck’s” control module for closer
scrutiny back in my own workshop.
The next day, I connected dummy
loads and applied power to the control
module on the bench and carried out a
few tests. The first obvious thing was
that there was no longer any of the
sporadic activity from the solenoid
drivers which I had experienced the
day before. I tried prodding various
parts and varying the temperature and
the supply voltage but all to no avail.
No matter what I did, I couldn’t induce
the symptoms to reappear.
Convinced that some component
had been in its death throes the day
before but was now holding out on me,
I connected an audio signal tracer to
see if I could pick up any noise in the
circuitry. Even though I was technically “listening” to DC voltages, I have
found this procedure to be useful in
the past for tracking down noisy components which, of course, generate an
AC signal in the form of random static.
In this case, I seemed to be getting
noise everywhere but not high enough
to cause the problems I had experienced the day before. Eventually, after
continued on page 96
February 2016 43
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New Scope Rider from Rohde & Schwarz: five instruments in one
Rohde & Schwarz claim their new
Scope Rider series (being shown for the
first time at this month’s Nuremberg
Embedded World Trade Fair) is the
first handheld oscilloscope with the
functionality, touch and feel of a
state-of-the-art lab oscilloscope. The
R&S Scope Rider is based on a highperformance oscilloscope but can
function as a logic analyser with
eight additional digital channels, as a protocol analyser
with trigger and decoding capability, as a data logger and
a digital multimeter.
Its rugged design makes it
ideal for mobile installation
and maintenance work.
The instrument features
isolated input and communications interfaces. It
meets CAT IV standards and
can carry out measurements
How do you buy US-only products in Australia/NZ?
The Amazon Echo (pictured) was one of
the Christmas 2015 gun products . . . but
it was not sold in Australia or New Zealand.
A few canny people were able to obtain
this (and other) products which have only
been released in the USA by using a New
York company called Big Apple Buddy.
They’re a shopping concierge service which
buys local product and ships them direct to
you via Fedex, UPS or DHL.
They have a minimum service fee of
$US40 per order, which covers all the leg work required
to source, negotiate prices,
packing and shipping your
purchase.
The process is extremely
easy and all costs are set
out in a free quote which you
receive prior to purchase.
For more information, visit
www.bigapplebuddy.com
“CheckmyTemp” Thermometer Crowdfunding
target passed
Elsewhere in this issue we feature
a successful crowdfunding campaign
for the “Joey” Arduino display.
Here’s another: “CheckmyTemp”
has now passed its target and will go
into production. It’s the world’s most
advanced thermometer, worn as an
armband, whose embedded sensors
accurately monitor the wearer’s body
temperature, position and movement.
Data is then transmitted to a handheld display for either immediate
action or later evaluation. It’s claimed
that this will save the lives of countless thousands of people, especially
44 Silicon Chip
children, and those with epilepsy
(where a spike in temperature can give
an indication of an imminent seizure).
More information on the device
can be found at www.indiegogo.com/
projects/check-my-temp
on low-voltage installation sources
up to 600V.
With an acquisition rate of 50,000
waveforms per second, a 10-bit A/D
converter and a maximum bandwidth
of 500MHz for the analog input channels, this portable oscilloscope clearly
outperforms comparable instruments.
The R&S Scope Rider will be
available as a four-channel or a twochannel instrument, the latter with a
digital multimeter, with bandwidths of
60MHz, 100MHz, 200MHz, 350MHz
and 500MHz. There will be trigger and
decoding options available for I2C, SPI,
UART, RS-232, RS-422 and RS-485 at
the time of market introduction.
Contact:
Rohde & Schwarz (Aust) Pty Ltd
Suite 2/2 Compark Circ, Mulgrave, Vic 3170
Tel: (03) 8874 5173 Fax: (03) 8874 5199
Web: www.rohde-schwarz.com.au
FreeviewPlus set-top
box from TEAC
While most Australians have access
to the Freeview (ie, free-to-air) TV
channels, many are confused as to how
and where to receive them.
The new TEAC HBBTS1 set-top box
is specifically made for FreeviewPlus.
It’s compact and easy to set up and
comes with built-in internet connectivity. It can also record free-to-air programs to a USB drive, so that viewers
never have to miss a thing.
FreeviewPlus uses hybrid TV technology, which seamlessly combines
broadband and broadcast TV, delivering the Freeview networks’ catch-up
services all in one place – on the TV.
Access to catch-up and other services
is easy, with viewers simply using
the coloured buttons on the remote
control.
The TEAC HBBTS1 set-top box is
available nationally at Betta Electrical,
The Good Guys and Harvey Norman.
siliconchip.com.au
IT & Comms / Arduino
®
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IN-CAR POWER SUPPLIES
Pre-built Dual Filament
3D Printer TL-4090
$
Capable of printing with two colours and/or materials
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provides a heated bed and generously sized glass
plate to print up to 298 x 150 x 130mm.
• Dual filament extruders
• Graphical LCD Screen
• Compatible with ABS, PLA filament material
• 465(W) x 315(H) x 390(D) mm
NEW
90W Automatic Mini Car
Laptop Power Supply
NEW
MP-3334
$
95
Charge your laptop as you drive.
1399
Compact in size with the electronics
housed within the cigarette lighter
plug itself. Supplied with
10 DC connectors.
Automatic voltage
output (up to 90W).
59
Due early February.
Fused Cigarette Lighter
Plug to 2.1mm DC Plug
PP-2008
Lighter plug has 5A 3AG
fast blow fuse and red
power indicator LED.
FREE 1KG BLACK 3D FILAMENT
FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS*
TL-4070 Valid with purchase of TL-4090.
4
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IT POWER SUPPLIES
NEW
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$
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SATA/IDE to USB 2.0
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6 Way USB Powerboard
MS-4068
Charges up to 6 USB devices
at a time and features a smart charging IC.
• Current Output: 2 x 2.4A ports, 2 x 1A ports or
4 x 1.2A ports, 2 x 1A
• 190(L) x 40(W) x 32(H)mm
XC-4150
Perfect tool to backup or transfer large amounts
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7995
$
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XC-4879
Enabling the addition of up to six extra displays,
this adaptor allows you to add high-resolution
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- just connect it to any USB 2.0 port. Ideal for
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3D Pen
$
99
SAVE $30
TL-4050 WAS $129
Construct 3D objects in a more natural way. The
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ARDUINO® KITS, SHIELDS AND ACCESSORIES - SEE PAGE 6 & 7 FOR MORE!
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$
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Protect your valuable computer system and
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$
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$ 95
Arduino® Compatible 8 x 8
LED Dot Matrix Module
XC-4499
A 64 x red LED matrix, this module is easily
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• 62(W) x 32(H) x 14(D)mm
Catalogue Sale 24 January - 27 February, 2016
2995
$
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ATMega328P Microcontroller. Powered from
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• 75(W) x 53(L) x 13(H)mm
SEE PAGE 6 FOR AN EXCITING
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To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
IT ESSENTIALS
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WC-7908 $9.95
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USB Type C Plug Cables
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95
$
A small device that plugs into the USB
port of your computer to provide a faster
charge to a Smartphone or Tablet . The
intelligent circuitry within this booster
detects the device connected and
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3995
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Wireless Network Adaptors
Upgrade your old PC laptop or netbook to the latest
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N150 NANO YN-8309
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N150 HIGH POWER YN-8306
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$
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$
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YN-8077
$
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3995
ea
USB 3.0 Type C. XC-4751
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$
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Take advantage of high performance USB Type
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USB 3.0 TYPE C TO VGA CONVERTER
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$
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Page 2
99
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Catalogue Sale 24 January - 27 February, 2016
IT ADAPTORS AND LEADS
XC-4834
$
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Connect a variety of RS-232 devices to your modern computer
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TO USB ADAPTOR XC-4927 $27.95
TO USB 1.5M XC-4834 $29.95
3995
$
USB to Parallel Bi-Directional Cable
XC-4847
This cable allows you to print to most parallel printer devices through
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socket and provides up to 12Mbps data throughput, so printing is
significantly faster compared with standard a parallel port connection.
Plug & Play support.
7995
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XC-4132
Wire up an RS-485/422 device to the 4 socket terminal block to
give your hardware USB connectivity.Surge protected. Suitable for
industrial, military, marine, science and custom built applications.
• 610mm USB A male to male cable supplied.
• Includes a 610mm USB A Male to Male cable
• Compatibile with Windows 8.1, 8, 7, Vista, XP, 2000, Mac OS®
9.0+, and Linux
• 55(L) x 42(W) x 24(H)mm
DOUBLE POINTS FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS ON THESE PRODUCTS
DOUBLE
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DOUBLE
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PL-0978
DOUBLE
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4
$ 95
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A range of SATA data and power cables for use with
vomputers and external serial ATA devices.
SATA TO SATA DATA PL-0978 $5.95
HDD POWER TO 2 X HDD PL-0750 $4.95
HDD POWER TO 2 X SATA PL-0759 $7.95
$
38
95
$
SATA to USB 3.0 Adaptor
XC-4149
A simple way to access files temporarily on a SATA
hard drive you no longer have installed. Includes
USB 3.0 cable and mains adaptor.
49
$
95
FROM
4995
DOUBLE
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XC-4697
USB 3.0 SATA HDD Docks
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USB 3.0 XC-4667
Easy installation, just two screws to remove the
back panel and no internal cables. Supplied
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Easily backup and store gigabytes of data quickly.
Suits 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD's (not included). USB 3.0
cable and power supply included.
SINGLE XC-4696 $49.95
DUAL XC-4697 $69.95
SINGLE CLOUD DOCK XC-4691 $59.95
DATA LEADS AND ADAPTORS
1495
$
WC-7702
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WC-7774
14ea
$
9
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95
24
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1.8M WC-7702 $9.95
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USB A MALE TO A MALE WC-7770
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USB A Male to A Female leads to extend the range
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$
FROM
High quality data leads providing 10 times faster
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All units feature built-in extenders to run your USB
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USB 2.0 5M XC-4839 $24.95
USB 3.0 5M XC-4126 $34.95
USB 2.0 10M XC-4120 $39.95
USB 2.0 20M XC-4124 $49.95
FROM
$
9
$ 95
RS232 Serial Cables
Variety of DB9 and DB25 serial cables to suit your applications. 1.8m
long
DB9 MALE TO DB9 MALE WC-7535 $9.95
DB9 MALE TO DB9 FEMALE WC-7534 $9.95
DB25 MALE TO DB9 FEMALE WC-7516 $11.95
USB RJ45 Extension Adaptor
2995
XC-4884
Connect USB devices to a computer from up to 50m away via a
standard Cat 5 network cable (sold separately).
• PC and Mac compatible
• Supports USB 1.1
• Transmitter and Receiver included
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
XC-4839
NEW
Rugged RJ45 Connector Plugs
PP-1453
Has been designed for use in harsh environments.
Rated to IP67 it is dust tight and water tight
making it handy for control and communications
applications located outdoors or in industry
workshops.
ALSO AVAILABLE:
RUGGED RJ45 CONNECTOR WATERPROOF
CAP PP-1455 $9.95
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Page 3
WORK BENCH SPECIALS
TD-2451
15% OFF
*
ALL SOLDERING STATIONS,
IRONS & TIPS
$
1495
$
SAVE $4
10% OFF
*
32 Piece Precision Driver Set
TD-2106 WAS $18.95
Ideal for jewellery, model making or electronics.
Tactile handle with extendable hardened shaft.
Slotted, Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx and Hex pieces.
ALL NON-CONTACT
THERMOMTERS & SOUND
LEVEL METERS
30 Piece Tool Kit
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ROTARY TOOL KITS
Drill, saw, sand, polish, carve or grind.
WITH CASE TD-2166
Minor DIY repairs are a breeze with this 30 piece
tool kit and every DIYer should have one of these
in easy reach. The tools are held securely in a
zip-up case.
110 PIECE TD-2451
WAS $34.95 NOW $29.95 SAVE $5
210 PIECE TD-2459
WAS $49.95 NOW $44.95 SAVE $5
SOLDERING TOOLS
NOW
19
$
95
SAVE $5
Soldering Iron Starter Kit
TS-1651 WAS $24.95
Includes all soldering essentials for various
projects. Pack includes 240V 20/130W turbo
soldering iron, spare tip, stand, solder, metal solder
sucker with spare tip and O-ring.
$
NEW
NOW
5095
$
SAVE $9
40W Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station
NOW
84
$
SAVE $15
SAVE $30
Soldering Station
TS-1620 WAS $59.95
It comes with a lightweight iron with anti-slip
grip and tip cleaning sponge, with temperature
adjustment up to 450°C. With 4mm banana socket
connected to mains earth.
NOW
169
95
TS-1564 WAS $99.95
Lightweight soldering pencil with ceramic heating
element and accurate analogue temperature
adjustment. 240V, 48W.
Portasol® Plastic Welding Kit
TS-1330 WAS $199
Cordless kit for plastic welding featuring an
ultrasonically welded gas tank for better strength
and reliability. Easy to use even for beginners with a
simple click to ignite Piezo system.
MEASUREMENT TOOLS
Cat II Autoranging
DMM QM-1524
IP67 True RMS
Autoranging
Cat IV DMM
This Cat II DMM is suitable
for voltages up to 600VAC and
has 15mm high digits for easy
measurement.
• 10A current
• Diode Test
• 3.5 Digits
• Overload protection
Micro Sound Level Meter
WITH WIRELESS USB QM-1571
A quality true RMS multimeter with
a wireless USB computer interface,
non-contact voltage indicator, relative
zero and data hold. Double moulded
housing is impact resistant and quite
durable, and IP67 waterproof rating
makes this DMM capable of even
the harshest conditions. Wireless
USB interface and included logging
software allow for computer based
live data logging whilst
keeping your computer
$
completely isolated
and protected.
1995
QM-1591 WAS $39.95
With a range of 40 - 130dB, this little meter
is ideal for environmental, safety and sound
system testing. It has a fast response time for
transient measurements and is A-weighted for
the frequency range of human hearing.
ALSO AVAILABLE:
PRO SOUND LEVEL METER WITH
CALIBRATOR QM-1592
WAS $349 NOW $314 SAVE $35
$
109
$
NOW
3595
SAVE 10%
ESSENTIAL TOOLS
$
2-in-1 Crimp
& Test Tool
NOW
2395
SAVE $6
Fujiya 110mm
Precision Side Cutters
TH-2332 WAS $29.95
These cutters feature high quality tool steel
construction with a sturdy box joint and are perfect
for cutting super fine wire as well as general
workshop use.
• 110mm long
• Blade hardness: Rockwell C Scale 57~61
• Soft grip handle
Page 4
TH-1939 WAS $69.95
NOW
An integrated cable stripper
$
and cutter, with detachable
cable tester. it can quickly
SAVE $6.95
and easily test Ethernet
twisted pair cables for
ESD Safe Sidecutters
wiring continuity, opens,
TH-1922 WAS $32.95
shorts, and mis-wires.
Specifically for ESD work. High quality Japanese
Includes PoE tester.
designed, Italian manufactured cutters especially for
NOW
• Suits 10P, 8P, 6P, 4P
static-sensitive applications. 135mm long.
$
95
• Single and multi-wired
cable wrimping
SAVE $14
26
55
*Discounts OFF regular prices.
No further discount applies to already reduced lines. See page 8 for T&Cs.
20% OFF*
ALL PLIERS, CUTTERS &
CRIMPING TOOLS
DON'T MISS OUT ...
FEBRUARY JAYCAR SALE
VISIT US IN STORE
OR ONLINE!
Catalogue Sale 24 January - 27 February, 2016
DOUBLE POINTS FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS
ON ALL UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLIES
Protect your valuable setup with our value-for-money Uninterruptible Power Supplies. Keep your
systems running long enough to save critical data when the mains power fails.
MP-5224
MP-5207
MP-5212
Features
Line interactive,
economical model
Line interactive, smart LCD
desktop model
On-line, smart LCD rack
mountable (2U height)
Load Rating
600VA, 300W
1500VA, 900W
1000VA, 700W
Internal SLA Battery
12V/7AH x1
12V/9AH x2
12V/7AH x3
Output Waveform
Modified Sine Wave
Modified Sine Wave
Pure Sine Wave
Transfer Time
<10 ms
<10 ms
Instant
Power Outlets
6 x AUS (3 bypass, 3
mains)
2 x AUS mains
6 x IEC
Backup Time (Typical)
31 mins / 11 mins /
4.5 mins
94 mins / 49 mins /
31 mins
95 mins / 47 mins /
32 mins
DOUBLE
POINTS
DOUBLE
POINTS
MP-5224
129
$
MP-5207
$
MP-5212
319
$
DOUBLE
POINTS
449
RACK CABINET SPECIALS
19” Rack
Mount Cabinets
Jaycar’s 19” rack mount cabinets are ideal for IT
or phone system installations, studios and PA
systems, with a size and configuration to suit your
application. These cabinets are solid steel powder
coated to provide high strength and rigidity under
load and are packed flat for convenient transport.
Coupled with our wide range of accessories and
options, these 19” rack mount hardware are value
for money and offer you outstanding features found
on more expensive units. Unbeatable value!
TECH TIP! SAVE TIME & MONEY
Jaycar also stocks highly practical and value-formoney network installation and troubleshooting
testers. See our website or ask us now.
$
FROM
5995
SAVE UP TO $30
Equipment Cabinet
HB-5125
ALUMINIUM FRONT PANEL
1U HB-5120
FROM
139
$
HB-5170
SAVE UP TO $40
SAVE UP TO $50
Fixed Frame
2U HB-5125
CLEAR TEMPERED GLASS DOOR
6U HB-5170
3U HB-5130
12U HB-5174
WAS $69.95 NOW $59.95 SAVE $10
WAS $109 NOW $89 SAVE $20
CLEAR TEMPERED GLASS DOOR
6U HB-5180
WAS $229 NOW $199 SAVE $30
12U HB-5182
WAS $299 NOW $249 SAVE $50
WAS $229 NOW $189 SAVE $40
HANDY TOOLS FOR
NETWORK INSTALLERS
15% OFF THESE 19" RACK MOUNT ACCESSORIES FOR NERD PERK CARD HOLDERS
YN-8046
NERD PERKS
HB-5432
Rack Cable Supports
NERD PERKS
FROM
1995
$
NERD PERKS
SAVE 15%
Take the pain out of wiring and fault-finding rack
cabinets. These high quality supports keep your
cables organised and neat, and provides strain relief
at the same time.
1U HB-5430 WAS $24.95
NOW $19.95 SAVE $5
SPECIAL
Patch Lead
Management Panel
$
2495
SAVE 15%
HB-5434 WAS $29.95
1U size, keeps all your patch leads under control.
Cat 5/6 24-Port
Patch Panels
FROM
4195
FROM
Sleek attractive looking rack mount 24 port patch
panel with a hard metal exterior. Numbered ports
and a labelling area for each port.
1U, SUITS CAT5E YN-8046
WAS $49.95 NOW $41.95 SAVE $8
8
SAVE 15%
Black powder coated panels for filling in unused
space or configuring to your own requirements.
Mount hardware included.
Rack Shelves
HB-5454
$
FROM
4150
WAS $10.50 NOW $8.50 SAVE $2
2U BLANK PANEL HB-5422
1U FIXED SHELF HB-5452
1U BLANK VENTED HB-5424
2U FIXED SHELF HB-5454
2U BLANK VENTED HB-5426
1U SLIDING SHELF HB-5450
1U BLANK PANEL HB-5420
WAS $12.95 NOW $10.95 SAVE $2
WAS $18.95 NOW $15.95 SAVE $3
WAS $27.95 NOW $22.95 SAVE $5
WAS $49 NOW $41 SAVE $8
WAS $69 NOW $58 SAVE $11
WAS $99.95 NOW $84.95 SAVE $15
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
NERD PERKS
SPECIAL
SAVE 15%
Ideal for equipment that you want to include in your
19” rack but doesn’t have rack-mounting ears. Each
shelf is punched with ample slots for ventilation and
takes loads of up to 20kg.
2295
Cat5 Adjustable
Punch-Down Tool
TH-1740
Designed for seating wire into terminal blocks
and has an adjustable internal impact mechanism.
Supplied with 88 blade. 152mm long.
ALSO AVAILABLE:
110 REVERSIBLE KRONE BLADE TO SUIT
NERD PERKS
$ 50
$
SAVE 15%
WAS $69.95 NOW $58.95 SAVE $11
NERD PERKS
HB-5420
Blank Panels
$
1U, SUITS CAT6 YN-8048
2U HB-5432 WAS $29.95
NOW $24.95 SAVE $5
HB-5182
Swing Frame
WAS $159 NOW $139 SAVE $20
WAS $129 NOW $99 SAVE $30
FROM
199
$
$
6-Way Power
Distribution Unit
5895
SAVE 15%
MS-4094 WAS $69.95
Power up to six 240VAC components in
your rack setup. Surge/overload protected
and fits any standard 19” rack. Includes
1.6m power lead.
• 1U rack space
See terms & conditions on page 8.
TH-1743 $17.95
$
1495
SAVE $5
6P/8P Modular Crimp Tool
TH-1935 WAS $19.95
This tool will crimp 6P2C, 6P4C-RJ11, 6P6C-RJ12
and 8P-RJ45 plugs. Also cuts and strips the cable.
Page 5
BUILD YOUR OWN WALL DODGING ROBOT WITH ARDUINO® FOR UNDER $100
SEE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON
WWW.JAYCAR.COM.AU/DIY-DODGING-ROBOT
Finished kit.
Batteries not included.
NERD PERKS CLUB
BUNDLE DEAL INCLUDES:
DUINOTECH CLASSIC (UNO) XC-4410 $29.95
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE STEPPER MOTOR CONTROLLER MODULE
BUY ALL FOR
$
XC-4492 $14.95
6X AA BATTERY HOLDER PH-9206 $1.75
2WD MOTOR CHASSIS ROBOTICS KIT KR-3160 $34.95
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE DUAL ULTRASONIC SENSOR MODULE
7995
SAVE OVER $13
XC-4442 $7.95
150MM PLUG TO SOCKET JUMPER LEADS – 40 PIECES
VALUED OVER $93
WC-6028 $3.95
100% ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
FROM
1995
$
4
$ 95
7
9
$ 95
$ 95
Arduino® Compatible Mini
Prototype Board Shield
XC-4480
Drop this shield onto your Arduino® for prototyping
small circuits. Solder-pads and a small breadboard
is included which can be stuck to the top of the
shield with the included tape.
• Fully compatible with Arduino®, Duinotech
LEONARDO, Duinotech Classic
Arduino® Compatible 2.4GHz
Wireless Transceiver Module
XC-4508
This module allows communication on the license
free ISM band. Despite its diminutive size, it
supports on-air data rates of up to 2Mbps. No
external components are required
(other than your Duino’).
Arduino® Compatible
Breadboards
Solderless Breadboard
Breadboards for Arduino® and other DIY electronic
projects. These have self adhesive tape on the back
for easy mounting or screws can be purchased for
permanent mounting.
170 TIE POINTS PB-8817 $4.95
830 TIE POINTS with power distribution holes
PB-8815 $14.95
WITH POWER SUPPLY PB-8819
Ideal for circuit board prototyping and Arduino®
projects. The power module can be powered from
either a 12V plug pack or from 5V using the micro
USB socket with a switchable output between 3V
and 5V DC.
• 1 x Solderless Breadboard with 830 Points
• 1 x Power Supply Module
• 64 mixed jumper wires of different lengths and
colours
GO ONLINE OR IN-STORE TO SEE OUR EXTENSIVE RANGE!
7
1295
$ 95
1995
$
3-Axis Accelerometer Module
FOR ARDUINO XC-4478
This module allows you to measure acceleration,
detect impacts and determine orientation. Perfect for
robotics projects.
• 21(L) x 15(W) x 11(H)
®
Page 6
1995
$
Arduino® Compatible Motor
Servo Controller Module
XC-4472
It has 2 x 5V servo ports connected to the Arduino's
high-resolution dedicated timer to ensure jitter-free
operation. It is also capable of driving up to 4
bi-directional DC motors with individual 8-bit speed
selection, or up to 2 stepper motors with single/two/
interleaved steppings.
Arduino® Compatible
Bluetooth® Module
$
XC-4510
Connected via the serial pins, and to your computer
via Bluetooth®; this module creates a seamless
serial-port link between you and your Duino’
PLUS you can use it to communicate with your
Bluetooth®-enabled smartphone.
• 28(W) x 13(L) x 8(H)mm
Follow us at facebook.com/jaycarelectronics
Arduino® Compatible RF
Transceiver Module
XC-4522
This module adds a versatile 433MHz radio to
your Duinotech project allowing two-way wireless
communication between Duinotechs. Controlled via
SPI. Prewritten libraries available.
• Includes antenna.
• 32(W) x 19(L) x 19(H)mm (Excluding antenna)
Catalogue Sale 24 January - 27 February, 2016
SHIELDS AND MODULES
PCDUINO
5
4
$ 95
Arduino Compatible
Red Laser Diode Module
®
XC-4490
Need a red laser light for your latest project? Here
it is! Everything you need to drive the laser diode is
included on the board. Just connect it to 5VDC and
you’re good to go!
• 45(W) x 23(D) x 10(H)mm
DOUBLE
POINTS
9
$ 95
$ 95
Arduino® Compatible PIR
Motion Detector Module
XC-4444
A pyroelectric infrared PIR motion sensor is a handy
addition to any Arduino® project. Wide operating
range and delay times changeable. A must for any
security application.
• 32(L) x 24(W) x 25(H)mm
Arduino® Compatible
Temperature and Humidity
Sensor Module XC-4520
$
Measure both temperature and humidity with this
nifty module. Fully digital operated so no analog-todigital calibration is required. Features resistivetype humidity measurement and is faster than our
XC-4432, but less accurate with a smaller temperature
range. Response wavelength 200-370nm
• 43(L) x 13(W) x 8(H)mm
8995
PcDuino Nano V3.0 XC-4352
This version of the pcDuino is substantially
smaller than its brother by omitting the Wi-Fi
module. Wired Ethernet is included at full
1GPS speed.
• 95(L) x 55(W) x 17(D)mm
Limited stock, not available online.
DOUBLE
POINTS
1495
$
4
9
$ 95
$ 95
Arduino® Compatible
5V Relay Board
XC-4419
It provides the easiest way to use your DuinoTECH
to switch real world devices. Includes back-EMF
protection and LEDs so you can easily see the state
of the outputs.
• 40(W) x 27(D) x 18(H)mm
Arduino® Compatible 3 Axis
Compass Magnetometer
Module XC-4496
This module allows you to take accurate compass
bearings, no matter how it is orientated. Easily
interfaced via I2C.
• Includes 5V - 3V level shifter.
• 20(L) x 16(H) x 5(H)mm
Arduino® Compatible
2 X 16 LCD Controller Module
$
XC-4454
Comes with a built-in 16 character by 2 line
LCD display with backlight, this six push button
keypad allows you to create a user friendly
interface for your project. The keypad consists
of up, down, left, right, select and also a reset
button.
• 80(W) x 58(D) x 20(H)mm
119
PcDuino V3.0
with Wi-Fi XC-4350
The latest version of the pcDuino single-boardcomputer. This is the full size pcDuino board and
includes the LVDS connector to connect an LCD
touchscreen. Ideally suited for creating a wireless
media centre.
• Built in Wi-Fi capability
• Supported digital audio via I2C.
1995
$
4
9
$ 95
$ 95
Arduino® Compatible X and Y
Axis Joystick Module
XC-4422
This handy module gives you X & Y axis control
for your Arduino project. The board is interfaced
through 5 pin header and provides a small gamepad style joystick. There is also a tactile switch
when you push the stick down.
• 47(L) x 25(W) x 32(H)mm
$
Arduino® Compatible
Joystick Controller
Module XC-4462
Arduino® Compatible
5V Stepper Motor
XC-4458
A small, versatile motor and driver set that can be
used with any Arduino® or compatible boards via
jumper leads. Four-phase LED indicates the status
of the stepper motor.
• 35(L) x 32(W) x 10(H)mm
Limited stock. Not available online.
Similar to a PlayStation™ Controller, this
shield has an analog joystick with a push
down function button plus another four
momentary push buttons. Add Bluetooth®
module for a wireless controller.
• X,Y axis with push down button
• Voltage selectable 3.3V and 5VDC
• 87(L) x 54(W) x 18(H)mm
2995
Voltage Converter Module
DOUBLE
POINTS
FOR XC4350/52 PCDUINO XC-4362
While most Arduino® shields run at 5V, the
pcDuino runs at 3.3V. This shield safely marries 5V
Arduino® shields with the 3.3V pcDuino and will
stop damagecaused by connecting a 5V shield to
the pcDuino.
• 70(L) x 50(W) x 4(D)mm
GREAT SAVINGS ON THESE ARDUINO® PRODUCTS
FOR NERD PERKS CLUB MEMBERS
NERD PERKS
SPECIAL
$
NERD PERKS
$
ICSP Programmer
2295
SAVE $5
FOR ARDUINO XC-4237 RRP $27.95
®
Program new applications into a wide range of
microcontrollers using this ICSP programmer with
a USB interface. Compatible with Arduino® boards,
ZZ-8726 ATmega328P MCU and fully supported by
the Arduino® IDE, allowing you to install or update
Arduino®-compatible boards and your own
custom-made projects.
SAVE $20
NERD PERKS
SPECIAL
SPECIAL
2495
Compatible RFID
Arduino
Lock Shield Kit
®
$
SAVE $10
4995
USBDroid – Interface
with your Smartphone
XC-4222 RRP $69.95
Like an Arduino® Eleven but with microSD slot &
XC-4215 RRP $34.95
USB port. Enables you to build your own Android®
®
Allows your Arduino to control a door lock using
(insert registered tm logo) peripherals to connect
an electric strike plate and one of a number of
your phone to whatever you like. Includes built-in
commonly available RFID modules. Based on
charger for Android® device.
a project in the book Practical Arduino®, which
• Compatible with the Android® Open Accessory
includes extensive documentation.storing gigabytes
Development Kit
of web server content or data.
• 68 x 53mm
NERD PERKS
SPECIAL
$
6995
SAVE $20
Large Dot Matrix
LED Display Panel - Blue
XC-4251 RRP $89.95
A huge dot matrix LED panel to connect to your
Freetronics Eleven, EtherTen and more! This large,
bright 512 LED matrix panel has on-board controller
circuitry designed to make it easy to use straight from
your board. 320(W) x 160(H) x 14(D)mm.
Limited Stock.
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
See terms & conditions on page 8.
Page 7
SAVE UP TO 30%
ARDUINO®
SPECIALS
NOW
NOW
3
NOW
6
7
$ 70
$ 70
$ 45
SAVE 25%
SAVE 25%
SAVE 25%
ProtoShield Basic
FOR ARDUINO® XC-4214 WAS $4.95
Low-cost Arduino® prototyping shield that enables
you to make more durable or permanent projects.
It fits directly onto an Arduino® or Freeduino®
compatible board such as the TwentyTen and has
a large general-purpose area in the middle where
you can solder on your own parts. Gold-plated
PCB surface
• 59(L) x 53(W)mm
XC-4240 WAS $8.95
Use this shift register expansion module to
drive up to 8 devices using just 3 pins on your
microcontroller. Handy for all sorts of projects
including driving LED 7-segment displays, dot
matrix displays, multi channel relays and more.
• 8 output channels per module
• 23(W) x 16(H) x 4(D)mm
NOW
13
$
Shift Register Expansion
Module FOR ARDUINO®
NOW
15
95
$
SAVE 30%
FOR ARDUINO®
XC-4257 WAS $19.95
A super-size prototyping shield to fit the EtherMega
(XC-4256) and Arduino® compatible Mega size
boards so you can fit your own parts for projects.
Fits on the top of the EtherMega (and provides a
large matrix of plated-through holes for your own
use. Includes header pin sets.
• 82(W) x 54(H) x 2(D)mm
Limited stock. Not available online.
XC-4268 WAS $9.95
Add your own custom parts to the LeoStick to build
projects or add more I/O connectors. Fits on the top
of the LeoStick and provides you a free matrix of
plated-through holes for your own use.
• 64 general-purpose plated holes for your parts
• Includes male header pins
• 36(W) x 19(H) x 2(D)mm
NOW
15
95
$
SAVE 30%
XC-4226 WAS $22.95
This 3-axis accelerometer module can operate in
either +/-1.5g or +/-6g ranges, giving your project
the ability to tell which way is up. Ideal for robotics
projects, tilt sensors, vehicle dataloggers, and
whatever else you can dream up.
• Independent X, Y, and Z axis outputs
• Can run from either 5V or 3.3V
• Zero-G free-fall detection
• 23(L) x 15(W)mm
Barometric
Pressure Sensor
NOW
2540
SAVE 25%
FOR ARDUINO® XC-4255 WAS $33.95
Highly sensitive barometric pressure sensor for
weather, industrial, rocketry, balloon, and many
pressure applications. Designed specifically for use
as a microaltimeter so it has incredible resolution
• 15(W) x 13(H) x 5(D)mm
NOW
1650
95
$
SAVE 30%
3-Axis Accelerometer Module
Mega Prototyping Shield
LeoStick Prototyping Shield
$
SAVE 30%
Power Regulator 28V
(Switchmode) fOR ARDUINO®
XC-4258 WAS $22.95
This regulator is a high tech switchmode supply
with a selectable 5V or 7VDC output. The input
voltage range of 6 to 28VDC is very flexible and it
will not overheat at higher input voltages like the
7805 and other linear regulators may.
• 21(W) x 33(H) x 6(D)mm
Limited stock. Not available online.
Humidity & Temperature
Sensor Module FOR ARDUINO®
XC-4246 WAS $23.95
Measure temperature and relative humidity using
a simple interface that requires just three wires
to the sensor: GND, power, and data. Supported
by an Arduino® library that makes it very easy to
read values into your project, so with a single I/O
line from your microcontroller you can read both
temperature and humidity.
• 31(W) x 23(H) x 4(D)mm
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, DOUBLE POINTS & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / Nerd Perks Card membership at time of purchase. Refer
to website for Rewards/ Nerd Perks Card T&Cs. ON PAGE 1: Free TL-4070 with purchase of TL-4090 for Nerd Perks Card Holders. ON PAGE 2: Special price for the following items: YN-8325, YN-8327, YN-8342, YN-8329, YN-8309,
YN-8307, YN-8306, YN-8408, YN-8077, YN-8078, YN-8352, YN-8356, YN-8077, Y-8078, YN-8360, YN-8365 and XC-4973. ON PAGE 4: Special price on the following items: TD-2451, TD-2451, TD-2459, TS-1651, TS-1620,
TS-1564, TS-1330, QM-1591, QM-1592, TH-2332, TH-1922 and TH-1939. ON PAGE 5: Special price for the following items: HB-5120, HB-5125, HB-5130, HB-5170, HB-5174, HB-5180, HB-5182 and TH-1935; Special price for the
followingAND
items:
HB-5430, HB-5432,
YN-8046,FREE
YN-8048,
HB-5424,POINTS
HB-5426,
HB-5452, HB-5454,
HB-5450,
MS-4094
Nerd Perks
Holders. ON
6: purchase.
Bundle price
for the
following
TERMS
CONDITIONS:
REWARDSHB-5434,
CARD HOLDERS
GIFT, HB-5420,
% SAVINGHB-5422,
DEALS, DOUBLE
& REWARDS
OFFERS requires
active
JaycarforRewards
CardCard
membership
at PAGE
time of
Refer
to website
foritems:
XC-4410, Card
XC-4492,
PH-9206,
XC-4442,
WC-6028
Nerd Perks
Card
Holders.ofON
PAGE 7:product
Special price
items: POINTS
XC-4251,
XC-4215,
XC-4222,
XC-4237
for Nerd
Perks YN-8206,
Card Holders.
ON PAGE
8: Special price
Rewards
T&Cs.
DOUBLEKR-3160,
POINTS FOR
REWARDS
CARDforHOLDERS
is for
purchase
specified
listedon
onfollowing
page. DOUBLE
OFFER
on PAGE
2 is for
YN-8204,
YN-8205,
YN-8207,
YN-8208,
YN-8294,
YN-8295,
YN-8296,XC-4268,
YN-8297,
WB-2020
or WB-2030.
REWARDS
CARD
HOLDERS
BUY 2DOUBLE
& SAVEPOINTS
DEALSACCRUED
on PAGE 2DURING
are forTHE
YN-8410,
YN-8077,
YN-8078,
YN-8326,
YN-8328,
YN-8352
YN-8354.
on following
items: XC-4214,
XC-4240,
XC-4255,
XC-4226,
XC-4258,
XC-4246,
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February 2016 53
Fig.1: the temperature, pressure and humidity sensor readings as they appear on a web
page. You can browse to these readings over your local network and via the internet.
RPi-based temperature,
humidity & pressure sen
Getting our Raspberry Pi working with the Sense HAT sensor
module was only the first step. This month, we show you how to
install the system in a clear acrylic case and stream the sensor
readings to a web-server so that you can easily access them over the
internet (and on your local network) via a web browser.
L
AST MONTH, we got our Raspberry Pi up and running, connected it to a local WiFi network, plugged
in the Sense HAT module and ran some simple programs to measure temperature, pressure & humidity.
We also showed you how to stream the RPi’s desktop
to another computer on the network, so that it can be
run “headless” (ie, without a keyboard, monitor and
mouse).
One problem we ran into was that the temperature
readings were skewed by heat from the Raspberry Pi
module. The Sense HAT module was plugged directly
into the RPi’s I/O connector, which meant that it sat
directly above the RPi’s ARM Cortex A7 CPU which
typically runs with a core temperature of about 45°C
(in 23°C ambient). We corrected for this by introducing a compensation factor into our Python temperature
54 Silicon Chip
measuring software but this was only valid over a fairly
narrow temperature range.
The obvious answer was to separate the two modules
by plugging the Sense HAT into the RPi via stackable
headers. In addition, by mounting the RPi in a case, the
underside of the Sense HAT module would be partially
shielded from the heat generated by the RPi’s ARM processor and any other on-board parts, such as the GPU.
So that’s what we’ve done. We chose to fit the RPi
module in a clear acrylic case from Core Electronics
(Cat. 018-RASP-PI+CASE1). It costs just $8.50 (plus
p&p) and comes as a flat pack; you just clip it together
to assemble it.
This case has a cut-out slot along one edge of the lid
immediately above the RPi’s I/O header, so that external modules can be plugged in via stackable headers.
siliconchip.com.au
Pt.2: By Greg Swain
Additional Parts Required
1 acrylic case, Core Electronics SKU: 018-RASPPI+CASE1 (for Raspberry Pi B+)*
1 Stackable female header with spacers, Core
Electronics SKU: POLOLU-2749*
1 stackable header, Core Electronics SKU:
POLOLU-2748*
2 M3 x 12mm tapped Nylon spacers
2 M3 x 8mm tapped Nylon spacers
2 M3 x 15mm machine screws
* www.core-electronics.com.au for case and
header parts
sor
Above: the Raspberry Pi module
is housed in a clear acrylic case,
while the Sense HAT module rests
above the case lid. It plugs into the
RPi via two stackable headers.
It also has a slot in the lid above the camera interface
connector and another slot at one end above the display
interface connector.
Before clipping the case together, it’s necessary to
cover the slot for the camera interface connector (the
one adjacent to the HDMI connector) to prevent warm
air from the RPi reaching the underside of the Sense
HAT module. We used a 25 x 20mm piece a clear
acrylic with 3mm-diameter holes drilled on either side.
A couple of matching holes were then drilled in the lid
and the cover secured in place using M3 x 10mm
machine screws, nuts and washers.
The case we obtained had no hole in the lid for a fan.
However, the case shown on Core Electronic’s website
now includes a hole for a 40mm fan and if your case
has this cut-out, then this will have to be covered as
well. In fact, it would be best to cut a single piece of
acrylic sheet to cover both the fan cut-out and the slot
for the camera interface.
One minor problem we found with the case was that
the hole for the micro-USB power connector wasn’t
quite large enough. In practice, it blocked the insulated
body at the end of the connector, preventing it from
being pushed home far enough into the RPi’s power
socket to stop it falling out. That problem was solved by
siliconchip.com.au
carefully enlarging the hole using a small file set.
There’s a useful trick when doing this. First, trace the
side piece, including its cut-outs, onto a piece of paper,
then carefully measure your micro-USB power connector and enlarge the traced outline for this connector
accordingly. The side piece can then be carefully filed
until the cut-out matches the paper template.
Depending on your HDMI cable, you may also have
to do the same for its socket cut-out.
Once you’ve done this work, the case can be assembled but take your time to figure out how it goes together. In particular, the lid must be fitted before the second
side piece is installed (see core-electronics.com.au/
ultimate-case-box-enclosure-combo-for-raspberry-pi-b.
html). The end piece with the cut-outs for the ethernet
and USB sockets can be fitted last, just after the RPi
module is slid into position. Make sure that this end
piece is attached the right way around, otherwise you
will not be able to access all the USB sockets.
If you do make a mistake, it’s easy to pull the case
apart – just lift up the clips at the bottom on either side
of an end piece and slip the piece off. The other end
piece can then be removed in the same manner.
Stackable headers
Two stackable headers are used to lift the Sense HAT
module clear of the RPi and these are listed in the
The slot in the lid is fitted with
a cover made from scrap acrylic
sheet, to help shield the underside
of the Sense HAT PCB from the
heat generated by the RPi’s ARM7
processor.
February 2016 55
This view shows the completed
RPi assembly before the Sense HAT
module is fitted. The holes in the side
of the case for the power and HDMI
sockets were enlarged using a file set.
Take care with the case assembly –
see text.
accompanying parts list. They can be fitted to the RPi
in either order, although it’s probably best to have the
tall unit on top. The standard unit has longer exposed
pins when everything is plugged in and these are best
contained inside the case.
Before connecting the Sense HAT, it’s necessary to
attach Nylon spacers to the two mounting holes on
the side opposite the header. Two spacers are required
in each position, one M3 x 12mm and the other M3 x
9mm, and these are attached to the Sense HAT using
M3 x 15mm machine screws.
There’s really no need to attach the spacers to the
case lid; they can simply rest on the lid when the Sense
HAT is plugged into the header.
Alternatively, if you’re fussy, you can drill a couple
of holes in the lid and attach the 12mm spacers using
M3 x 9mm machine screws. The M3 x 9mm spacers
can then be drilled out (to remove the thread) and the
assembly then secured at each corner using M3 x 15mm
machine screws.
Better accuracy
By enclosing the RPi module in the case, its heat no
longer has such a large affect on the temperature readings. There is still some degree of warming around the
unit though, and the Sense HAT unit itself also slightly
contributes to this, but the result is that the readings are
more accurate than before.
At switch on from cold (23°C ambient), our unit’s
temperature readings were about 0.3°C high without
compensation but this increased to about 4.3°C after the
unit had been on some time and had reached a stable
operating temperature. They were previously around
10°C or more too high, so that’s quite an improvement.
This means that a much lower compensation value
is now required to correct the temperature reading.
Whereas previously a compensation value of around
0.8 was required, a value somewhere around 0.35 will
now give reasonably accurate readings for temperatures
in the range of ~20-30°C. The compensation factor not
only corrects for local warming around the unit but also
helps correct for any inaccuracy in the sensor itself.
You can insert this new compensation value into the
Environment2.py program listed in Pt.1 by changing:
ta = round((t-(ct-t)*0.8),1) to
ta = round((t-(ct-t)*0.3),1)
56 Silicon Chip
Another benefit of enclosing the RPi in a case is that
this gives more stable temperature readings. Successive
readings now typically vary by just 0.1°C as opposed to
variations of up to 0.4°C with the previous arrangement
(no doubt due to hot air rising from the RPi and circulating under the Sense HAT module).
Apache web server
In order to access the Sense HAT’s readings over the
internet, we need to install the Apache2 Web Server
and the mod_python module. Mod_python is simply a
module that embeds the Python interpreter within the
Apache2 server and allows the two to work together.
First, make sure that the system is completely up-todate:
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo reboot
You can now install the web server and Python
module and get it running. That’s done by opening a
Terminal window and entering the following:
Step 1
sudo apt-get install apache2
sudo apt-get install libapache2-mod-python
Step 2
sudo nano /etc/apache2/sites-available/000-default.conf
and add the following lines under the DocumentRoot
line (be sure to insert tabs as shown):
AddHandler mod_python .py
<Directory /var/www/html>
DirectoryIndex index.py
PythonHandler mod_python.publisher
PythonDebug on
</Directory>
Once these lines have been added, hit Ctrl-o to save
the file and Ctrl-x to exit Nano. Note: if you don’t feel
comfortable using the Nano text editor, then run sudo
leafpad from the Terminal, then open and edit the file
using the Leafpad GUI text editor.
Step 3
Now add the same lines to /etc/apache2/sites-available/default-ssl.conf for SSL (Secure Socket Layer)
support. Connecting using https://<address> instead of
http://<address> will give secure communications between your browser and the Apache2 server.
Step 4
We now need to give Apache2 access to the I2C sensiliconchip.com.au
sors on the Sense HAT. To do this, enter the command
sudo nano /etc/group and change the line
i2c:x:998:pi to i2c:x:998:pi,www-data
Then change
video:x:44:pi to video:x:44:pi,www-data
Step 5
Next, create a hidden configuration folder for the
sensor data:
sudo mkdir /var/www/.config
sudo chown www-data /var/www/.config
Step 6
We now enable SSL support by running:
sudo a2ensite default-ssl
sudo a2enmod ssl
Note that this will use a self-signed certificate which
will require you to add an exception to your browser
when you first visit the site.
Step7
Restart the Apache2 service for the changes to take
effect:
sudo service apache2 restart
If it fails to restart and gives an error indicating a
problem with the Python module, check that the entries
you added in sites-available/000-default.conf and
sites-available/default-ssl.conf are correct. If so, then
run:
sudo a2enmod python
and then run the command to restart the Apache2 service again. Note: the Python module should be enabled
when it is installed but if not, the above command will
enable it.
Step 8
Check that the Apache2 web server is working. To
do that, simply browse to the RPi’s IP address (ie,
http://<ipaddress>), either from another computer on the
network or on the RPi itself. If you see the default web
page as shown in Fig.1, that means it’s working.
Step 9
The next step is to get Apache2 working with the Py-
Fig.1: the default page for the Apache2 web-server. If you
see this, then Apache2 is working correctly.
thon module to display the Sense HAT readings. That’s
done using a program called index.py. You have to
download this file (embedded in index.py.zip) from the
SILICON CHIP website, unzip it and move it into the RPi’s
/var/www/html folder.
The easiest way to do this is to first download the
file using the RPi’s web browser. Browse to www.
siliconchip.com.au, then click Shop, select Software
from the drop-list and left-click the index.py.zip file.
The file will immediately download into the /pi/Downloads folder. Navigate to this folder, then right click the
zip file to extract its content.
Index.py can now be moved to the required folder as
follows:
sudo mv /pi/Downloads/index.py /var/www/html
That’s it! – it should now work. Using a computer
on the local network (or the RPi itself), browse to
http://<ipaddress> (or optionally use https://<ipaddress>
assuming SSL support is enabled, as described above).
Temperature, pressure & humidity readings should immediately begin appearing on the web page, as shown
on page 54.
By default, the program has a compensation factor of
0.3, updates the reading every five seconds (5s) and displays a maximum of 10 messages at any one time (the
message scroll up the screen). However, you can easily
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siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 57
Keeping The Baddies Out
Because it sits behind your router’s
hardware firewall (and the software
firewall, if enabled), your RPi should be
reasonably secure. However, opening
port 443 on the router (to enable internet
access to the web-server) does provide a
potential security problem. That’s why it’s
important to choose a strong password
for the Apache2 authentication log-in.
Fail2Ban
Despite this, the web-server’s log-in
prompt will soon attract brute force attempts to gain access by people running
password dictionaries. There’s an easy
way to defeat such attacks, though: limit
the number of log-in attempts by using
an intrusion detection software utility
called “Fail2Ban”.
Fail2Ban works by monitoring the logs
generated by various services (such as
Apache2). If there are too many failed
log-in attempts, it then temporarily (or
even permanently) bans the offending
IP from making further attempts. For
example, it can be configured to allow
three log-in attempts and, if all are unsuccessful, ban the offending IP for 20
minutes, depending on the settings in
the configuration file.
In practice, Fail2Ban sets up a few
simple iptable firewall rules (iptables is
the utility used to configure Linux fire-
walls). It then automatically alters these
rules after the preset number of failed
log-in attempts. By default, it monitors
SSH (port 22) only but it’s just a matter
of altering its configuration file to include
other protocols such as HTTP (port
80) and HTTPS (port 443), as used by
Apache2.
An excellent guide on installing
and configuring Fail2Ban can be
found at www.digitalocean.com/
community/tutorials/how-to-protectan-apache-server-with-fail2banon-ubuntu-14-04 It’s just a matter of
following this guide to configure it so
that, as well as SSH, it also monitors
the RPi’s Apache2 server.
Important points
Note that you have to copy the default
configuration file to /etc/fail2ban/jail.
local. You then edit this new file (it overrides the original configuration file) to set
the “bantime”, the maximum number of
tries (“maxretry”) and the “findtime” (the
time period over which the retries are
counted). The default bantime is 600
seconds but you can increase this (eg,
to 1800 seconds) or enter a negative
number to ban the offending IP forever.
Note that it’s particularly important
to scroll down to the [apache] jail and
change to line enabled = false to enabled
alter these parameters, either in the index.py program
itself or by adding switches to the website address, eg:
http://<ipaddress>/?max_msgs=5
http://<ipaddress>/?interval=60
http://<ipaddress>/?compensate=0.4
You can also string these switches together, eg, https://
<ipaddress>/?compensate=0.4&max_msgs=5&interval=60
applies a compensation factor of 0.4, shows a maximum
of five messages on the screen and updates the readings
every 60 seconds.
Step 10
If you plan on making the RPi’s website accessible via
the internet, then it’s a good idea to require password
access. To do this, run:
sudo apt-get install apache2-utils
sudo a2enmod authn_dbm
sudo htdbm -TSDBM -c /etc/apache2/dbmpasswd <username>
<enter password>
sudo chown www-data /etc/apache2/dbmpasswd.pag
Be sure to choose a strong password. It should be a
mixture of upper case and lower case letters, numbers
and alphanumeric symbols.
That done, go to the two Apache2 configuration files
58 Silicon Chip
= true. Fail2Ban will then cover both http
and https.
Installing a firewall
Unless you’ve opened up myriad ports
on your router, a separate firewall on
the RPi (apart from the Fail2Ban rules)
isn’t really necessary. However, if you’re
a “belts’n’braces” type or you just want
to experiment, consider installing Uncomplicated Firewall (UFW) which is an
easy-to-use iptables configuration utility.
The following website has the basics
on UFW’s installation and usage: www.
digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-set-up-a-firewall-with-ufwon-ubuntu-14-04
Of course, all bets are off if you
decide to add the RPi to your router’s
DMZ (demilitarised zone). Placing it in
the DMZ means that it cannot contact
other devices on your internal LAN in the
event that it’s compromised (it’s added to
the DMZ by logging into your router and
going to the DMZ set-up page).
The downside is that all ports on the
router will then be forwarded to the RPi,
so it’s wide open. As a result, a firewall
is then an absolute must.
In practice, you would set up the firewall to initially block all incoming ports.
You then create rules to open port 443
(for https) and port 22 (or whatever you
change it to; see the panel “Connecting
Via SSH & VNC”) if you want connect
via SSH (secure shell).
(ie, 000-default.conf and default-ssl.conf) and add the
following lines under the lines you added in Steps 2 & 3:
AuthType basic
AuthName "private area"
AuthBasicProvider dbm
AuthDBMType SDBM
AuthDBMUserFile /etc/apache2/dbmpasswd
Require valid-user
Then do: sudo service apache2 restart
If you are using passwords, you should also use SSL
(ie, set up as per above) and use https:// to access the
site, otherwise your password could be intercepted.
Now, whenever you attempt to browse to the RPi’s
web server, you will initially be greeted by a dialog box
asking you to enter your user-name and password.
Accessing it via the internet
In order to access the RPi’s web server over the internet, you have to do the following:
(1) assign a fixed IP address to the RPi (by default, it
has a dynamic IP that’s assigned by the router’s DHCP
server);
siliconchip.com.au
(2) set up a port forward on your router; and
(3) determine your public IP address.
The easiest way to fix the RPi’s IP address
to to assign an IP to its MAC address (or
“Hwaddr”) in the router. A MAC address is
simply a unique code consisting of 12 hexadecimal characters that’s assigned to every
network device, such as a WiFi dongle. To
discover the MAC address of your RPi’s WiPi dongle, run ifconfig in a Terminal window;
the address consists of the 12 characters immediately following “Hwaddr” under wlan0.
That done, log into your router and look
for the DHCP set-up page, LAN IP page or
similar. You can then enter the Wi-Pi’s MAC
address and assign it an IP. The router’s
DHCP server will then always hand out that
IP to the RPi (ie, it will remain fixed). Fig.2
shows the set-up on a Netgear cable modem/
Fig.2: you can fix the RPi’s IP address by entering it against its MAC
router.
address in your router. Running the ifconfig command on the RPi gives
The next step is to set up port forwarding.
you the MAC address.
Basically, a firewall is built into the modem/
router. In order to make a connection to the
RPi’s web server, you have to open up (or
forward) the relevant port in this firewall so
that data can pass through.
By default, Apache2 uses port 443 for
https (port 80 for http) and this must be forwarded to the RPi’s fixed IP address. To do
this, navigate to the router’s port forwarding
set-up page, enter the relevant port number
and IP details and click “Add” (or similar).
Fig.3 shows the set-up for a Netgear cable
modem/router. As can be seen, port 443 has
been forwarded for https, the RPi’s fixed IP
address is 192.168.1.20 (yours may be different) and TCP is used for the protocol. Other
routers will have similar menus.
Similarly, port 9630 has been forward for
SSH (secure shell) access (see panel: ConFig.3: you also have to set-up port forwarding in the router to provide
internet access to the RPi’s web-server and the SSH service (see text).
necting Via SSH & VNC).
Once you’ve configured the router, save
the set-up and logout. You may also have to restart the
your WAN (wide area network) IP address is likely to
router for the settings to take effect.
change over time. And if it does change, you will not
The last step is to obtain your public IP address.
be able to log onto the RPi over the internet until you
That’s easy – browse to www.whatismyip.com/ and
check the new address from your local network.
your public IP will be displayed.
In many cases, that’s not likely to be much of an inIf you now enter https://<yourpublicIPaddress> in a web
convenience. Provided you leave your modem/router
browser on your PC, the login diaglog for your RPi
on, your WAN (or public) IP may stay the same for
should immediately appear. Enter your user-name and
weeks, months or even years. However, inevitably, it
password (ie, for the Apache2 server), and the Sense
will change. The modem/router may pick up a new IP
HAT readings should immediately begin scrolling down
when it’s restarted after being switched off for some
the page.
time or when it comes back online after a blackout, for
Note, however, that some home routers don’t support
example.
“loopback”, whereby you can use your WAN IP to conThe way around this is to sign up to a DDNS service.
nect to a computer on your local network. If that’s the
DDNS stands for “Dynamic Domain Name Server” and
case, try logging in using a computer that’s outside your
it allows you to log onto your home network without
LAN or switch off the WiFi on your smartphone and try
knowing its WAN IP. Instead, the DDNS automatically
connecting via its browser.
keeps track of your WAN IP (even when it changes) and
allows you to connect using a domain name. A domain
Dynamic DNS (DDNS)
name also has the advantage of being much easier to
One weakness of the above scheme is that, unless
remember than a WAN IP.
you’ve been issued with a static address by your ISP,
The way in which DDNS works is straightforward;
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 59
Fig.4: Duck DNS is a free dynamic DNS provider. You
simply sign in using your Google (or other) account and
choose a hostname. You can then access the RPi’s server
over the internet using https://hostname.duckdns.org
Fig.5: once you have your hostname, open the Install
page, click the “pi” button and follow the instructions to
create the duck.sh script file and the Cron job (see text).
either your router or a computer on your network periodically checks the WAN IP (eg, every five minutes) and
updates the DDNS service. So if your WAN IP changes,
the DDNS will quickly be informed of the new address
and you will be able to log onto your home network
without too much delay (provided, of course, it’s not
down due to a blackout).
DuckDNS
Two of most popular free DDNS services in the past
have been DynDNS and No-IP. You can still use these
but note that DynDNS is no longer free, while No-IP
nags you to confirm your hostname every 30 days (unless you sign up for a paid version).
These two DDNS services are supported by many
routers, although many older Netgear routers only support DynDNS. If your router supports your preferred
60 Silicon Chip
Fig.6: setting up the Cron job on the RPi. Once set-up
is complete, it runs the script file every five minutes to
update the Duck DNS server with your WAN IP address.
DDNS service, then you can use the router itself to update the DDNS. That can be an advantage because you
don’t need to leave a computer running on the network
to do the job.
A great free DDNS alternative is Duck DNS at www.
duckdns.org In most cases, it won’t be supported by
your router but there’s an easy answer to that problem
– use the RPi itself to run a script to update the Duck
DNS server.
To set up Duck DNS, sign in on their home page using your Google, Twitter, Facebook (or other) account
(Fig.4), then give Duck DNS permission to discover
your email address and WAN IP. You then enter your
desired hostname into a dialog box and if it hasn’t
already been taken, it’s yours and you will also be assigned a “token”.
You should now be able to connect to your RPi using
the domain name, ie https://yourhostname.duckdns.org
Next, you need to configure the Raspberry Pi so that
it periodically contacts the Duck DNS server to update
the WAN IP. That’s done using what’s known as a “Cron
job” (Cron is name given to a software-based job scheduler that’s used in Linux). Duck DNS makes this easy:
(1) click the “install” menu at the top of their webpage;
(2) click the “pi” button under Operating Systems;
(3) select your given hostname under “first step –
choose a domain”; and
(4) follow the instructions to create the necessary script
file and the Cron job (see Fig.5 & Fig.6).
Note that if you are working directly on the RPi,
there’s no need to run the ssh command line – just open
a Terminal window and kick off with mkdir duckdns (do
not use sudo). This will create a /duckdns folder under
your /pi user folder.
You may be more comfortable using Nano or even the
Leafpad GUI text editor rather than the vi text editor
to create the duck.sh file (eg, nano duck.sh instead of vi
duck.sh). In addition, note that you don’t have to run
the last command listed (sudo service cron start) for the
Raspbian operating system.
Provided it returned “OK” when you ran cat duck.log
as instructed, your RPi will now update the DuckDNS
server with your WAN IP every five minutes. What’s
siliconchip.com.au
Connecting Via SSH & VNC
If you want to control your RPi over the
internet, it’s best to log-in via SSH (secure
shell). This gives a secure command
line interface, provided you’ve chosen a
secure user password for your RPi.
SSH is enabled by default when Raspbian is installed but can be disabled (or
enabled again) using raspi-config.
You can stick with SSH’s port 22 default if you like but we recommend that
you change it to something else. If port 22
is forwarded on the router, it will quickly be
found and bombarded by hackers making
repeated attempts to SSH their way in using brute-force methods. While Fail2Ban
will quickly deal with this, changing the
port number will drastically reduce the
number of unauthorised log-in attempts
in the first place, simply because the
default SSH port is not being used.
It’s best to choose a high port number, eg, 9321, 9630 or 10101, or similar.
That’s done by editing the sshd_config
configuration file:
sudo nano /etc/ssh/sshd_config
Change the Port 22 line to the new
port number (eg, Port 9321). Then do:
sudo service ssh restart
You can then log-in to your router and
forward the port so provide SSH access
into the RPi over the internet.
Mac and Linux machines both natively
support SSH but a Windows PC will
require the installation of an SSH client
such as PuTTY. Download the putty.exe
file from www.putty.org/, then rightclick the file and drag a shortcut onto
the desktop.
You’re now set to SSH into the RPi:
launch PuTTY, enter either your host
name (eg, yourhostname.duckdns.
org) or your WAN IP address, then enter
the port number and click the Open button. This will bring up a terminal window
and it’s then just a matter of logging in
with your RPi’s user name and password
(see Fig.7).
From there, you can control the RPi by
entering commands, just as if you were
directly using the RPi’s terminal. Entering
exit or Ctrl-D closes the connection and
the terminal window.
Using VNC Over the Internet
Directly accessing the RPi over the
internet using VNC can be a security risk
since all traffic apart from the password
(which is limited to just eight characters)
is unencrypted. You would also have to
open up port 5901 on the router and
again that’s bound to attract brute-force
authentication attempts.
The way around this is to tunnel the
VNC connection via an SSH log-in. SSH
ensures that all data is encrypted and,
as a bonus, you don’t have to open up
additional ports on the router.
Setting it up and connecting is a
breeze:
(1) Launch PuTTY, enter in your host
name (or WAN IP address) and the port
number (Fig.7);
(2) Enter a session name in Saved
Sessions;
(3) In the lefthand panel, expand the
entries under SSH and select Tunnels.
(4) In the resulting dialog, enter 5901
in Source port and localhost:5901 in
Destination, then click Add. These entries will then be loaded into Forwarded
ports (Fig.8).
(5) In the left-hand pane, click Session,
then click the Save button.
That’s it! – double-click the Saved Session in PuTTY (or select it and click Load,
Open) and log in. You can now securely
connect to the RPi’s VNC server via the
SSH tunnel by launching TightVNC and
entering localhost:1 in the VNC Server
field (Fig.9).
more, you will now be able to log into your RPi over the
internet using your domain name rather than a cumbersome and easy-to-forget WAN IP address.
How secure is it?
So how secure is the whole set-up? The answer is
about as secure as the strength of your password unless
you lock it down. Fortunately, there are a few simple
steps you can take to secure your RPi down, so that
you don’t get hacked. Take a look at the accompanying
panels: “Keeping The Baddies Out” and “Connecting
Via SSH & VNC”.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: setting up a saved session in
PuTTY, the Windows SSH client. Note
that the RPi’s SSH port number was
changed from 22 (the default) to 9630.
Fig.8: here’s how to set up an SSH tunnel
in PuTTY for a VNC connection.
Fig.9: you can now connect to the RPi
via SSH, then connect via TightVNC by
entering localhost:1 for the Remote Host.
Browsing Confined To A LAN
If you’re going to be browsing to your RPi’s web-server
over your local network (LAN) only, then there’s no need
for password authentication. In that case, you can leave
out all of Step 10 and simply browse to the server using
http://<ipaddress>
Confining access to the local network also means that
there’s no need to open up the relevant port on your router.
In fact, you should leave that port closed if you don’t require
external access.
SC
February 2016 61
Crowd funding
your electronics
product –
Kickstarter and
‘The Joey’.
By
Steve OBrien and
David Meiklejohn
Have you got a great idea for an electronic product? You’ve designed
it, it works – and now you’d like to build and sell some. How do you
cover the cost of building the first batch? And how do you find your
first customers? Kickstarter may be the answer for you ...
K
ickstarter is a crowd-funding
web site, based in New York
but it is a global web business.
You sign up and describe your project
idea and your project plan. If it is a
technology product then you must
have a prototype to demonstrate.
Once the project meets Kickstarter’s
requirements it can “go live” and the
campaign runs for up to 60 days, although one month is recommended.
People can choose to back the project by pledging to buy your product
and if the funding target is reached
then you can proceed to deliver your
project.
It’s all about minimising risk on both
62 Silicon Chip
sides – if your project doesn’t reach
its funding goal, everyone walks away
without paying a cent and you haven’t
sunk money into building a product
which may not be viable.
There have been some very successful Kickstarter projects; two outstanding campaigns we’ll mention here are
the Pebble and the Flow Hive.
Pebble Smartwatch
The Pebble is a smart watch,
designed to provide an affordable
alternative to the well known smart
watch suppliers. Pebble raised over
US$10 million inside one month in
early 2012 – that was the biggest dol-
lar value Kickstarter project at that
time. Using this capital to fund further
development and production, Pebble
watches started delivery and they
have now manufactured more than
one million units.
In 2015 Pebble announced a second
Kickstarter campaign for a new version
watch, the ‘Pebble Time’. It raised
US$500,000 in the first 17 minutes! It
then hit US$1 million in 49 minutes,
US$10 million after 48 hours, and
more than US$20.3 million after 1
month (the end of the campaign) with
over 78,000 backers.
So they financed their product and
got their first 78,000 customers at the
siliconchip.com.au
Two highly successful Kickstarter campaign products from completely different areas. On the left is the Pebble
Smartwatch which achieved $US20.3 million in funding. At right is the Australian Flow Hive, which hoped to raise
$US70,000 but achieved $US12 million Kickstarter funding from 24,000 backers in 130 countries.
same time!
The Flow Hive
Good old Aussie ingenuity is still
alive and well – at least that is what
24,000 Flow Hive backers believe. The
Flow Hive introduced a new way to
extract honey from a bee hive.
Traditionally, honeycombs need to
be lifted out of the hive and the wax
is scraped away so the honey can drip
into a collecting bucket. This disturbs
the bees – and smoke is commonly
used to subdue them.
In a different approach to the
problem, the flow hive includes new
honeycomb frames that separate when
you turn a handle from outside.
When the honeycomb cells are separated, the honey can trickle down and
exit through a pipe at the bottom. You
don’t have to open the hive or remove
the honeycomb arrays and the bees are
much happier about it as well!
It was put up on Kickstarter in early
2015 in the hope of raising $70,000.
The promoting video for Flow Hive
went viral and they had reached their
$70,000 target within a few minutes
and hit US$2 million within the first
24 hours! By the end of the campaign
they had over US$12 million and
24,000 backers in 130 countries across
the world!
Now they have to build and ship approximately 24,000 hives – but having
too many orders is what’s called a ‘high
class problem’. The ABC covered the
Flow Hive in their “Australian Story”
series in 2015.
Other crowd funding websites
While Kickstarter is the biggest
crowd funder, there’s nothing new
about crowd funding. In 1885 a newspaper campaign raised money to build
the base for the Statue of Liberty (the
statue itself was a gift from the French
government to the people of the United
States). Joseph Pulitzer, as in the lit-
erature prize, instigated the campaign.
Of course, crowd funding is not
always for electronic products, in fact
there are hundreds of crowd funding
sites of many different types and a
huge range of projects get proposed
and funded, from films to books, gadgets, video games, music pop groups.
Crowd funding sites also exist for investment, real estate and philanthropy.
(Kickstarter itself does not cater for
charities or similar fundraising).
The Joey – a Raspberry Pi
display board
The Joey is a collaboration between
the authors of this article, who agreed
to develop and sell a handy display
board for the Raspberry Pi.
A new product often grows out of
the need to solve an existing problem.
In this case Steve was looking for a way
to reliably discover his Pi’s IP address.
If you have a Raspberry Pi then
you’ll know there are a few different
Two of the potential thousands of uses for the Raspberry Pi Joey DisplayBoard – showing the time on the left and the
temperature on the right. The beauty of the Joey is that it doesn’t prevent other boards being stacked nor use I/Os.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 63
displays support – handy for a wide
range of projects.
They had a great product idea, filling
a real market need. But would it sell?
It sounded like a perfect fit for a
Kickstarter project!
The Kickstarter Campaign
The Kickstarter page displaying the Joey and a brief description of what it does.
Along with this page, a promotional video was produced. Notice the bottom
line: The Joeys have all shipped!
ways to connect to it. Direct connection involves either a keyboard, mouse
and screen, or a serial port and terminal emulator into the console.
An alternative, and often more
convenient, way to connect to your
Pi is over a computer network, either
LAN or WiFi. But to do this you first
need to know the IP address of your
Raspberry Pi.
For a fixed IP address, no problem.
But a lot of the time IP addresses are
allocated dynamically and it is not
always easy to find out what IP address
your Pi has been given, especially if
you’ve taken it to a meet-up.
Ideally, the Raspberry Pi would tell
you the address it has been assigned.
One approach is for the Pi to upload
the new IP address to a website. Open
that page with a browser, identify your
Pi and copy the address listed.
Another method is to run a script so
that the Pi sends an email with the IP
LOOKING FOR A
PCB?
PCBs for most recent (>2010)
SILICON CHIP projects are
available from the SILICON CHIP
PartShop – see the PartShop
pages in this issue or log onto
siliconchip.com.au/shop
You’ll also find some of the
hard-to-get components to build
your SILICON CHIP project, back
issues, software, panels, binders,
books, DVDs and much more!
64 Silicon Chip
address each boot up.
Both approaches work fine but they
need a working internet connection to
the outside world.
If you want to be independent of
the internet or if your connection is
down, you need another solution. So
Steve came up with the idea of a small
display which attaches directly to the
Raspberry Pi’s I/O connector.
When the Raspberry Pi boots up it
displays the IP address numbers in
sequence and you can type these in
to get connected.
David had faced a similar problem,
so saw the appeal of a small, unobtrusive numeric display, especially
if it could be used alongside other
Raspberry Pi add-ons.
It could be used to display sensor readings, a count, elapsed time,
etc. Although plenty of Raspberry Pi
display boards are available, it can be
hard to use them with other expansion
boards – a lot of boards don’t stack and
some use conflicting I/O pins.
And you don’t need fancy graphics when you only need to display a
simple numeric value.
So they decided that the Joey would
connect via I2C, to avoid the potential
for conflict with the General Purpose
I/O (GPIO) pins used by other add-ons
and also made a 0.8mm thick PCB
that sits off to the side, allowing other
Raspberry Pi expansion boards to plug
over the top.
Joey uses a generic 4-digit display,
so users can write to and display any
numbers or letters that 7-segment
Before you start a Kickstarter campaign you must set a target amount
of money that needs to be achieved.
Each campaign typically runs for one
month and is “All or Nothing”. If the
target isn’t reached then the project is
cancelled – and you can’t change the
target mid-campaign.
Kickstarter take a 5% commission
of the project total if successful and
another 3% (or so) in funds collection fees.
They had to decide how many Joeys
they’d need to build to get the unit
price “low enough”.
After researching manufacturing
costs and competitors (how much do
other displays cost?), they found that
they would need to build at least 500
boards.
So they needed to set the funding
goal high enough to cover the cost of
building 500 Joeys, plus 8% for the
Kickstarter fees.
The next decision was how much
to charge for each Joey. Backers actually ‘pledge’ to buy ‘rewards’ (the Joey
display boards) for a minimum amount
which the Kickstarter campaigners
specify.
It’s common to include a limited
number of “early bird” rewards at a
lower unit cost, to get the ball rolling
and build some buzz quickly.
They decided to price the rewards so
that, if they sold around 250 Joeys, they
would just about cover production and
distribution costs. They would be left
with some extra boards that could be
sold later.
Promotional Video
The best way to explain your project
is to make a video for the project page.
In fact Kickstarter rules insist that you
have a prototype built before you can
go live.
Steve lives near a Sydney flight path
and doesn’t always notice the plane
noise, but on the promotion video
they made the planes were extremely
obvious, so most of the audio had to be
re-recorded later at another location.
So don’t shoot your Kickstarter
video on a Saturday morning in Sydsiliconchip.com.au
ney’s inner west!
Volume Production –
China or Australia?
When planning to make about 500
Joey boards, the question naturally
arises – manufacture in Australia or
China?
The Joey boards could be built in
Australia for only a few dollars more
than China pricing, so local manufacturing costs are not the main expense
in this case.
But it turned out the international
freight costs to send the Joeys to
backers all around the world out of
Australia were the killers.
The cheapest package delivery from
Australia costs over $10 (around the
same cost as the Joey sells for!) and
with tracking it is even more expensive.
But from China small packages
can be sent worldwide for $3 or less!
Additionally the Joeys are stored at a
logistics centre in China at low cost
and held until dispatch is requested.
siliconchip.com.au
So Australian manufacturing loses
out because the total cost to global
customers is not competitive.
A downside of manufacturing
in China is that the critical step of
building and testing prototypes takes
longer than it would working with an
Australian manufacturer.
In fact, they had to go through a
couple of prototype versions before the
final changes were sorted out.
Marketing.
How do you find potential customers and tell them about your Kickstarter project?
In Steve and David’s case, they sent
emails to all business, professional
contacts & friends to spread the word.
They then sent tweets since Gooligum
Electronics (David’s web site – where
you can purchase Joeys online) has
existing Twitter followers and notified
a number of popular Raspberry Pi blog
sites and posted on relevant forums.
They also sent out follow up emails,
posts and tweets in the middle and
towards the end of the campaign to
encourage any last supporters.
The initial response was quick. It
slowed right down for two weeks in the
middle, then a final burst of supporters
in the last week pushed it over the line.
Steve’s wife has no particular interest in electronics, but it was funny
how often she checked the web site
to give him a progress report on how
many Joeys had been backed each day.
The Joey was successfully funded
in October 2015 and was in volume
production by December 2015, with
165 backers from all around the world.
Although the Joey Kickstarter project itself is complete, if you need a
useful display for your Raspberry Pi
then the Joey boards are available for
sale online at www.gooligum.com.au
So if you want to get your product
out of your imagination and into the
hands of customers around the world,
think about giving Kickstarter a try.
You never know, it may go viral and
you might end up with a high class
problem of your own!
SC
February 2016 65
February 2016
Build It Yourself Electronics Centre®
The ultimate camping,
fishing, anything light!
Provides many hours of use from a brilliant
performance lithium battery. Folds flat for easy
storage in the car. Includes car and mains charger.
69
.95
$
A must have for
every car boot!
X 0224
NEW!
NEW!
D 2200
X 2902 Flood
X 2904 Spot
A 1109
49.95
169
$
Add Bluetooth streaming to
any amplifier instantly!
®
Pairs with your phone to stream your favourite tunes
to your existing audio system.. Includes 3.5mm lead.
Buy P 6020 1.5m lead to hook up to RCA input on
most amps ($6). USB 5V 1A charging output.
SAVE $30
A 4200
99
$
2 x 50W Stereo Mini Amp
Power up speakers in your study or alfresco
with this mini amp. Hooks up to A 1109 (see
right) for instant Bluetooth music streaming
from your phone. 3.5mm and RCA inputs.
Class D design. Internal headphone amplifier.
$
40W Genuine CREE® LED Lamps
IP68 weatherproof vehicle lamps housed in a diecast
case. 2800 lumen output. 304 grade stainless
hardware with durable UV stabilised flyleads. 9-40V
DC. Size: 125Wx155Hx88D mm. Sold individually.
VALUE!
JUST LANDED!
Q 1224
30
$
.95
Stunning Performance Biema® Power Amplifiers
The latest release from Biema® with several key enhancements in cooling, efficiency
and circuit protection. High power non-bridgeable design is perfect for DJs, bands,
function venues using foreground sound reinforcement. 3 pin XLR and 6.35mm inputs.
Speakon and binding post outputs. 2 year warranty.
A 4155 2x150W
499
$
A 4157 2x250W $585
A 4159 2x350W $649
Wire Stripper &
Kwik Crimper
Combines a ratchet
wire stripper, cutting blade & kwik
crimper. Saves
space in the toolbox! Suits 10-24
AWG cable.
29
$
T 2480
T 2451
SAVE
25%
Add
250ml
butane
for $7.50
All heat & no flame!
Iroda® Pocket thermo-gun. Great for removing adhesives & paint. 650°C max. Refillable.
NEW!
199
Top Seller!
$
A 1115
Add Bluetooth audio
to your favourite speakers!
®
Universal 360° Car Phone
Mount With NFC
Universal design suits just
about any phone up to 80mm
wide. NFC function launches
your favourite app when your
phone is in the mount.
NEW!
47.95
$
Lithium/NiMH Cell Charger
With 5V USB output (use charged cells as a
power bank). Car & mains use. Suits
AAA/AA/C NiMH & 10440 to 26650 lithium.
NEW!
M 8880
NEW!
T 1528A
Why pay for new bluetooth speakers when you can
add this 2x20W RMS module to your existing
speakers? Streams music direct from your phone!
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
29.95
A 0287
Time saving
gadget!
Gas Bottle Level Detector & Torch
Keep tabs on how much gas you have
left and avoid an embarrassing scene at
your next BBQ! Requires 1 x 9V battery
(S 4908 long life lithium $16.95).
NEW!
$
» Virginia QLD: 1870 Sandgate Rd » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
32.50
$
49.95
$
5 Way Intelligent USB Charger
Massive 7.5A output! ‘Charge IQ’ feature
charges a connected device at the fastest
speed. 110-240V - great for travel.
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
SAVE $35
Heavy Duty Iroda Gas Soldering Gun
Use it anywhere, no need for messy extension leads!
Not just a soldering iron, it can also be used as
a blow torch up to 1300°C for brazing
and heat shrinking. Self standing .
Includes 2 refillable gas cartridges
(≈1.5hr use each) &
7mm chisel tip
Yellow only.
SAVE $40
Changes
jaws in
seconds!
T 2178
160
$
10 Crimp Tools In One!
T 2650
109
$
NEW!
19
$
.95
Virtually every crimper you’ll ever need in the
one kit. 10 sets of magnetic jaws to suit kwik
crimps, uninsulated lugs, telephone lugs, ferrules, coax crimps, D-Sub pins and RJ plugs.
Spring Loaded PCB Holder
A must have for the soldering
enthusiast! Great for working on boards
up to 200 x 140mm in size. Rotating
holders. Heavy base and rubber feet
ensure a solid working sufrace.
T 2418A
Upgrade your old clunker iron!
This excellent multi purpose 80W soldering iron is ideal
for service technicians, schools, engineers, R&D, production work etc. Japanese long life ceramic element. 200°480°C. 0.8mm tip. 2 year warranty.
149
$
Long Term Temp &
Humidity Logger
This pro-grade piece of test gear
is designed for monitoring temperature and humidity levels in
situ for long periods (up to 2
years battery life!). Features
djustable alarms, logging periods
and Windows software for viewing
measurements. -40 to +70°C.
T 2356
SAVE $20
139
Q 1520
SAVE $70
229
$
UNI-T® True RMS Benchtop DMM Datalogger
$
NEW MODEL!
Q 1268
Ideal for service departments & circuit development. Provides true RMS measurement & datalogging. 240V powered. 10A AC/DC. Frequency to 50MHz. Software,
temperature probe, PC USB/serial leads included. 2 year warranty.
Workbench Essentials
With in-built
laser pointer!
D 0508
SAVE 15%
55
$
Tip has inbuilt LED lamp
SAVE 26%
29
$
USB Powered Soldering Iron
Perfect for occasional soldering
jobs with great performance.
Fitted with ultrafine tip capable
of temperatures up to 480°C!
Great for
automotive
wiring.
T 2699
SAVE 25%
26
T 5000
Rugged IP67
Waterproof Battery Bank
Must have for tradies, travellers and
hikers. Water and dust proof battery bank
to recharge your phone on the go! 5V 1A
output, 5600mAH.
$
NEW!
13.65
$
SAVE 14%
W 0884A
Instant-Read IR Thermometer
Great for the kitchen or test
bench! 0.1° accuracy from
-50 to 260°C. Includes batteries.
Q 1281
NEW!
28.95
$
17
$
171 Piece Heatshrink Pack
Assorted 75mm and 45mm lengths
in a range of colours and diameters
from 3.2 to 12.7mm. 2:1 shrink ratio.
Super Sturdy Tool Case
Aluminium panels with reinforced corners
& seams. Locking latches. Inner foam can
be customised. 330x230x90 mm.
SAVE 16%
T 2367
BARGAIN!
SAVE 25%
T 2185
19
$
Mini Precision Screwdriver Set
Ideal for servicing comms & digital devices etc.
Features a driver handle & 19 interchangeable,
pozi, hex, torx and blade tips.
29
Smartphone
.50
$
Repair Kit
T 2164
Everything you need to
disassemble and repair most
smartphones and tablets. Great for
DIY screen or battery replacement.
Follow <at>AltronicsAU
www.facebook.com/Altronics
Express Order
Hotlines:
39
$
Nifty Multi-Angle
Bench Vice
Made from diecast
alloy. Clamps to your
work bench and
provides total 360°
freedom when
working. Jaws open
to 55 mm. Includes
soft jaws for holding
delicate connectors.
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
T 4015
Magnetic Mat Prevents Loose Screws!
This magnetic workmat keeps those tiny screws and washers
in place when servicing. 25x20cm. Includes marker.
2-In-1
Multimeter
& LAN Tester
Autoranging multimeter provides,
current, voltage
and resistance
with max/data
hold functions.
LAN tester quickly
tests lead integrity.
SAVE 22%
70
$
D 3020
Save space in
the tool box!
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
SAVE 24%
50
‘Roadies’
Cable Tester
Tests 13 types of
leads for continuity.
A real time saver!
Tests: 6.35mm,
DIN (3/5/7/8 pin),
RCA, XLR (3/5 pin),
Speakon (4P/8P),
RJ45, USB &
banana.
$
Q 2022
C 0993 10” 180W
SAVE $60
239
SAVE $50
$
109
$
D 2811
C 0991 8” 100W
SAVE $30
Turn a dumb telly into a smart telly!
165
$
Simply plugs into a spare HDMI input and provides a tablet
style interface for accessing Netflix, Stan, catch up TV apps
and more! Streams 1080p HD video over wireless. 1GB of
RAM, 4GB internal memory & micro SD slot. Android 4.2.
Top Deals in AV Gear!
Instant
sound
system!
Address Large Crowds With Ease
An all in one portable PA unit with amp that sets up in just
seconds - no expertise required. Just plug into 240V power,
switch it on and connect a mic. USB playback makes it
easy to play your favourite tunes. Great for clubs, sports
events, fetes, carnivals and bingo nights!
Introducing HiFiBerry - The Audiophile
Add-On for Raspberry Pi
HiFiBerry adds high-quality sound to your Raspberry Pi. HiFiBerry sound cards
are designed for optimal sound output quality. It is the ideal solution for all
Raspberry Pi users that love music. HiFiBerry boards are compatible with
Raspberry Pi A+, B+ and 2B. Z 6302A Raspberry Pi 2 $75.95.
NEW!
.95
119
SAVE
$30
88.95
$
88
$
146
$
$
NEW!
S 9423A
NEW!
Z 6404
Amp+ HiFiBerry Module
A high-quality, highly efficient ClassD power amplifier offering 2x25W
output. Ideal building block for multiroom audio designs. Just connect
speakers and power up your Pi to
start listening! Only a single 12-18V
power supply required for both your
Pi & the module (M 8936 $21.50).
Z 6402
Z 6400
DAC+ RCA HiFiBerry Module
The HiFiBerry DAC+ is a high-resolution
digital-to-analog converter. This is a special
sound card for the Raspberry Pi optimized
for the best possible audio playback quality.
Digi+ HiFiBerry Module
The Digi+ is a high-quality S/PDIF output
board add on. It offers a dedicated S/PDIF
interface chip supporting up to
192kHz/24bit resolution. Optical (Toslink)
and coaxial output.
Bluetooth Stereo
Amplifier Wallplate
129
$
Wireless audio streaming from
your smartphone, direct to the
wall controller. 2x15W RMS
stereo amplifier built in, great
way to install speakers in the
study or games room.
NEW!
129
$
A 1100
NEW!
In-built FM tuner &
USB/SD card music input
A handy HDMI switcher for connecting up to 4 HDMI
sources to a 4k/2k or HD display. Features selectable
audio EDID, and audio return channel for toslink output.
Easy flip-lock
installation!
Add superb presence and clarity to
your home sound system with these
8” (200mm) low profile speakers.
Aluminium grilles are suitable for
mounting in sheltered outdoor
alfresco and entertaining areas.
100 Watts. Sold in pairs.
SAVE $80
SAVE $80
219 249
$
$
C 0883 Round
C 0881 Rectangular
NEW!
136
Jumbo
4 In 1 Remote
Control
$
A 3081C
HDMI Wallplate
Easy fly lead connection. Dual facia covers.
SAVE 25%
22
A must have for hassle free reversing with or without a trailer!
Weatherproof 120° camera fits into the number plate recess.
Includes a 5m lead. Make it wireless with S 8761 2.4GHz
transceiver kit, $49.95.
Stunning Home Hi-Fi In
Ceiling/Wall Speakers
Long Distance HDMI Sender
Send 1080p signal from your Blu-Ray or game
console up to 50m over Cat5e/6 UTP.
Includes transmitter, receiver & plugpacks.
W 2765 100m Cat6 UTP to suit $100.
4 Way HDMI Signal Switcher
$
HANDY!
A 3216A
3.5” Colour Reversing Camera Kit
• Great for the kids!
• Pre-programmed with
1000’s of codes, plus IR
learning • Actual size: 284 x
128mm. • Requires 2xAA
batteries (S 4906
SAVE 25%
lithium $4.95)
22
$
P 5970
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
A 0977A
Top Value Five Channel Audio Mixer
Compact & easy to use mixer. 5 channels accept up
to 11 inputs. 3 band EQ, channel volumes,
crossfader & VU meters. Great for schools!
» Virginia QLD: 1870 Sandgate Rd » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
» Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
SAVE $100
199
$
A 2554
Resellers
Huge new range for makers!
59
.95
$
Electrocardiogram
Arduino UNO
Shield Kit
K 2523
(SC Oct’ 2015) An easy-tobuild Arduino project which
will let you take your own
electrocardiogram (ECG) and
display it on a laptop PC. The
software lets you read,
display, save and print the
electrical waveform generated
by your heart – or anyone
elses. Requires Arduino UNO.
129
$
NEW KIT!
K 9350
Control access by the press of a finger.
NEW KIT!
(SC Nov’ 2015) The Fingerprint Access Controller stores and
recognises up to 20 prints and provides quick access for authorised
people. An indoor control-panel allows easy setup of the system,
while the fingerprint reader is mounted in the supplied wall-plate.
NEW!
NEW!
NEW!
Z 6349
24
.95
$
ATMega328P Lilypad Board
Great for moving UNO based designs &
code into e-textile projects. Can be used
with Z 6368 LED sequins ($4.95 5pk).
14
.95
$
Z 6345
Z 6339
21.95
$
Screen & Keyboard Shield
DC-DC Boost Module
A 16x2 black character screen with green backlight. Push buttons are provided for up, down,
left, right and select. Ideal for scrolling and
selecting menu options.
Allows a low input voltage to be increased
to a higher output voltage. Display shows
input & output voltages. Input 3-34V DC.
Output 4-35V DC. 2A continuous current.
Tinker, invent and design with over 70 new shields,
sensors and development boards in stock!
NEW!
24.95
$
NEW!
Z 6343
NEW!
Z 6346
24.95
Z 6337
$
ATMega32U4 Lilypad Board
The ‘lilypad’ form factor allows easy
building of sewable electronics and e-textile projects. Can be used with Z 6368
LED sequins ($4.95 5pk).
19.95
$
Buck/Boost Module
L298 H-Bridge Motor Shield
Uses an L298 H-Bridge designed to drive relays,
solenoids, DC and stepping motors. It can also
drive two independent DC motors. Standard
Arduino shield dimensions. 5V input.
Utilises the LM2596S and LM2577 to
accept a 3.5-28V input and output 1.2526V at a max current of 1A. Ideal for projects where regulated power is required.
NEW!
7
$ .95
NEW!
NEW!
3.3 or 5V output!
Z 6355
Breadboard Power Supply
Makes the most of your breadboard
space. Switch selectable voltage. USB 5V
or 6-12V input via 2.1mm DC jack.
19.95
$
Z 6340
A joystick and button controller which plugs
directly onto an Arduino UNO. Features a header
for direct connection to Z 6348 Nokia screen.
3V3 or 5V DC input.
NEW!
15
39.95
$
.95
Z 6360
Z 6342
ESP8266 WiFi Module
802.11b/g/n serial to WiFi Module.
Provides any microcontroller access to
your WiFi. Very easy way to add WiFi to
your Arduino project. Integrated TCP/IP
protocol stack. 3.3V input.
Allows you to connect USB peripherals & mass
storage devices to your Arduino. Uses the
MAX3421E chip. Fitted with stackable connectors.
B 0092
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
Re-create classic Nokia games or code your
own with this backlit LCD. 3V3 or 5V DC.
Plugs into gamepad shield on the left.
NEW!
5
$ .95
Z 6364
TTL to RS485 Breakout
USB Host Peripheral Shield
Sale Ends February 29th 2016
Z 6348
Nokia 5110 LCD Screen
Gamepad Joystick Shield
NEW!
$
14.95
$
A TTL to RS485 breakout module for connecting an Arduino or similar microcontroller to RS485 equipped devices. 5V
input. 44L x 14Wmm.
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight and
insurance and therefore the range of stocked products & prices
charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2016. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
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Music Workshop
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+64 3 3434475
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Digitally-controlled audio preamplifier
with four stereo inputs
This relatively simple circuit uses
three relays and six ICs to provide
digital volume control as well as
switching between four stereo input
pairs. Its performance has not been
measured but low-distortion/lownoise components have been used.
A PCB design, in EAGLE file format, is available. It mostly uses SMDs
with some through-hole components
(connectors, electrolytic capacitors,
op amps, regulators and relays).
Each stereo signal input is ACcoupled to a pair of relay contacts
using back-to-back 47µF electrolytic
capacitors. This arrangement is both
cheaper and smaller than non-polarised electrolytics and the impedance
is low enough that it won’t distort the
signal. Signal DC bias is provided by
47kΩ resistors to ground.
The relays are 5V dual coil latching
types to minimise standing current
drain. The prototype used parts from
Futurlec (LATCHREL5V). Depending on the state of the relays, one of
inputs 1-4 is routed to the common
Low voltage warning
for a lithium cell
This circuit was devised to
provide a low battery warning for
cell voltages below 3V. It uses an
MCP6541 micro-power comparator
(IC1) and an LM285 2.5V reference
(REF1) which is fed with a nominal
32µA via a 22kΩ resistor.
IC1 is connected as an inverting
Schmitt trigger that compares the
voltage from trimpot VR1 with a
portion of the cell voltage fed via the
associated voltage divider to its noninverting input at pin 3. If the cell
voltage is low, pin 3 will be below
pin 2 and the comparator’s output at
pin 6 will go low, turning on LED1.
The 10MΩ resistor connected
between pins 3 & 6 provides a small
amount of hysteresis of around
150mV to prevent the LED flicker70 Silicon Chip
volume setting. If a bipolar op amp
is used, there could be audible clicks
when the volume level is changed.
The buffered and amplified signals from IC4 are fed to the output
sockets via 100Ω isolating resistors
which prevent instability due to load
capacitance in the driven device,
as well as providing short-circuit/
overload protection for IC4.
Microcontroller IC1 drives the
coils of relays RLY1-3 using IC5, a
7-Darlington transistor array, using
its PC0-PC5 digital outputs on pins
23-28. It also drives three status LEDs
directly. LED1 indicates whether the
unit is operating or in standby, LED2
indicates mute and LED3 flashes to
acknowledge a received infrared
code.
Note that the LEDs are mounted
off-board via a pin header, not
shown on the circuit. Similarly, all
RCA sockets are chassis-mounted
and wired back to 3-way polarised
headers on the PCB, with the common ground connection at centre in
each case.
Infrared signals are received by
continued on page 72
terminals of RLY3 and the stereo
signals are then buffered by low distortion dual JFET-input op amp IC2.
IC2 drives the signal inputs of stereo
logarithmic volume control IC3, also
available from Futurlec in an SMD
(SOIC) package.
IC3 is controlled by signals from
microcontroller IC1 via its CLK,
LOAD/SHIFT and DATA IN inputs
(pins 9, 10 & 11). Op amp IC2 runs
from a ±15V supply for best performance while the volume control
IC runs from ±6V rails, as this is
its recommended supply voltage.
IC3 can provide attenuation from
0-78dB, in 0.5dB steps up to 47.5dB
and 1dB steps from 48dB to 78dB. It
also provides a 104dB mute function.
The attenuated signal is then fed
to the non-inverting inputs of IC4a
and IC4b, each operating with a gain
of two, giving the overall unit the
capability of a gain setting between
-75dB and +3dB. It’s important that
IC4 is a JFET-input op amp as the output impedance of IC3 varies with the
+3.2V
(LITHIUM
CELL)
22k
1M
470Ω
10M
A
LED1
3
REF1
LM2852.5Z
K
A
VR1*
1M
2
7
IC1
λ
1 µF
K
6
4
1M
IC1: MCP6541(I/E)/SN
LM 285 -2.5Z
* SET VR1 FOR CELL
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE
ing on and off at the threshold set
by VR1.
A high-brightness red or green
LED should be used as the current is
only 2mA and the voltage available
to drive the LED is lower that that
required for a white or blue LED.
The key parts are available from
A K
NC
LED
K
A
the following two companies:
(1) LM285-2.5Z – Jaycar Cat. ZV1626 (www.jaycar.com.au)
(2) MCP6541(I/E) SN –
element14
Cat. 1557429 (au.element14.com)
John Clarke,
SILICON CHIP.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 71
IRD1
RIGHT IN4
CON8
CON7
RIGHT IN3
LEFT IN4
CON6
CON5
RIGHT IN2
LEFT IN3
CON4
CON3
RIGHT IN1
LEFT IN2
CON2
CON1
LEFT IN1
2
λ
3
47k
47k
47k
47k
47k
47k
47k
47k
100Ω
1
100pF
100Ω
100nF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2 x 47 µF
2
IC7
3
5
4
NC7SZ14
+5V
10
8
7
6
4
13
11
3
14
5
2
15
12
1
E
9 IC5 MC1413D
16
RLY2
RLY1
RLY3
30
31
32
14
13
23
24
25
26
27
28
IC2b
8
XTAL1/PB6
XTAL2/PB7
PC2/ADC2
PC1/ADC1
GND
5
PD0/RXD
AGND GND
3
21
MISO/PB4
PD1/TXD
RESET/PC6
MOSI/PB3
PD3
PD4
SCK/PB5
PD2
SS/PB2
PB1
PD5
PB0
ADC7
PC3/ADC3
ADC6
PC4/ADC4/SDA
PD6/AIN0
Aref
IC1
PC0/ADC0 ATMEGA
8A
(TQFP)
10
16
17
29
15
1
2
9
12
8
7
22
19
20
Vcc
11
PD7/AIN1
6
10
9
8
19
20
5
3
4
1
100 µF
PC5/ADC5/SCL
4
Vcc
1
7
–15V
100nF
–15V
18
4
IC2a
AVcc
+5V
2
3
IC2: OPA2134P
6
5
18
LOAD/SHIFT
Vss1
CLK
LOGIC GND
GND2
14
1
3
5
7
9
ICSP
CON11
10 µF
7
11
12
6
2
4
6
8
10
–6V
DATA IN
Vss2
DATA OUT
GND AC3
17
IC3
LM1972M OUT2
GND AC2
IN2
GND AC5
GND AC4
GND1
16
2
47nF
OUT1
Vdd2
Vdd1
GND AC1
IN1
15
13
47nF
–6V
+6V
LED1
6
5
1
2
3
K
1
LED2
K
A
LED3
K
10k
10k
1 2
3
5
NC7SZ14
+5V
–15V
4
RIGHT OUT
CON10
100Ω
10k
LEFT OUT
CON9
100Ω
10k
LEDS
470Ω
λ
A
CATHODE
DOT
7
100nF
470Ω
λ
A
4
IC4b
IRD1
470Ω
λ
A
K
IC4a
8
IC4: OPA2134P
2
3
+15V
Circuit Notebook – Continued
D1
D5
A
K
+15V
REG1 LM317L
OUT
IN
~
CT
BR1
MBS4
A
430Ω
22 µF
10V
16V
22 µF
10 µF
110Ω
16V
10V
~
~
~
CON12
22 µF
110Ω
–
A
K
A
D10
A
IN
IN
470 µF
35V
OUT
GND
Combined games
timer & electronic dice
This device features four programs, each controlled by one of four
pushbuttons (S1-S4). A games timer
program limits the time allowed for
each move in chess or other games.
Single and double dice programs
–6V
K
D7
D1 -D10: SM4004
+5V
78L05
22 µF
10V
BR1 will conduct and it will operate
as a full wave bridge rectifier.
The 1000µF capacitors are charged
up to roughly ±20V and this is regulated to ±15V by REG1 and REG2.
The LM317L and LM337L are used
due to their superior 50/100Hz ripple rejection thanks to the 22µF
capacitors between the ADJ pins
and ground. D1-D4 protect these
regulators from reverse current at
switch-off.
The ±15V rails power op amps IC2
and IC4 directly and also feed into
regulators REG3 and REG4 which are
identical to REG1 and REG2 except
that they are configured for output
voltages of ±6V, to suit IC3.
A fifth regulator, REG5, is used to
provide the digital +5V supply. This
have traditional dot faces and suit
many board games, while the twoup program has a heads and tails
display, based on the original coin
tossing game. The unit is battery
powered and includes a power
switch (S5) and a power indicator
(LED1). Diode D1 drops the voltage
to just over 5V and also provides
LM317LZ
LM337L
GND
IN
Audio preamp . . . continued
from page 70
IRD1 and pass through a de-glitching
RC filter which removes very brief
spikes, followed by Schmitt trigger
inverter IC7 which also helps to
eliminate noise and glitches in the
received signal. Its output then goes
to input PD2 on IC1 which is used to
trigger an interrupt service routing to
process and decode infrared signals.
Power for the unit is provided by a
small 15-0-15V transformer or a 15V
AC plugpack (the prototype used the
latter). If using a plugpack, connect it
between the CT terminal of CON12
and either end. BR1 then operates as
a full-wave voltage doubler.
By contrast, if a centre-tapped
transformer is used, all four diodes in
K
OUT
A
D3
REG5 78L05
K
430Ω
REG4 LM337L
–15V
K
10V
D8
ADJ
K
OUT
REG2 LM337L
D9
1.2k
22 µF
A
16V
16V
D4
10V
2.2 µF
22 µF
A
ADJ
10 µF
110Ω
16V
1000 µF
220nF
35V
IN
72 Silicon Chip
D6
A
2.2 µF
22 µF
+6V
K
ADJ
1.2k
16V
110Ω
OUT
IN
D2
1000 µF
220nF
35V
+
REG3 LM317L
K
ADJ
LOW-VOLTAGE
AC INPUT
(SEE TEXT)
A
K
OUT
OUT
OUT
IN
ADJ
IN
ADJ
is fed by separate rectifier diodes D9
and D10 and it also has its own 470µF
storage capacitor. This is to reduce
the possibility of digital switching
noise getting into the analog power
supply.
The analog and digital grounds
are joined using a 0Ω resistor on
the underside of the PCB, to ensure
this only happens at one point. The
5V regulator and its output filter capacitor are also on the underside. All
other components are on the top side.
The EAGLE schematic and PCB
design files are available for download from the SILICON CHIP website,
along with the microcontroller C
source code and HEX file.
Nicholas Vinen,
SILICON CHIP.
reverse battery protection.
The circuit includes a PICAXE
20M2 microcontroller (IC1) and
has a 5x7 dot matrix LED display
(DISP1), mounted sideways and
driven as two separate 3x5 dot matrix displays. The five anode pins
have 47Ω series resistors and are
driven directly by IC1’s outputs. The
siliconchip.com.au
+5.4V
100 µF
100nF
330Ω
+V
A
ON
λ LED1
K
16V
1
B0
B1
S1
GAMES
TIMER
10 SEC
SINGLE
DIE
S2
DOUBLE
DICE
S3
TWO-UP
MODE
S4
13
PIEZO
BUZZER
B5
B3
B4
20 SEC
12
40 SEC
11
60 SEC
4
3
+
B2
B6
B7
19
22k
10k
2
3
16
4,11
15
10
14
6
IC2 ULN2003N
C1
C2
C7
C4
SER.OUT
C5
SER.IN
DISP1
2
9
10
1 1B
1C 16
9
2 2B
2C 15
1 5, 12
8
14
9
8
3 3B
3C 14
7
4 4B
4C 13
6
5 5B
5C 12
5
6 6B
6C 11
7 7B
7C 10
0V
20
POWER
S5
D1
1N4004
K
A
6V BATTERY
(4x AA)
E
8
1N4004
A
siliconchip.com.au
7
+5.4V
LED1
six cathode pins are controlled by
IC1, using a ULN2003N device (IC2)
as a driver. It has multiple opencollector Darlington transistors to
sink current from the six cathodes.
A suitable dot matrix display
module is the Altronics Z0197
which has high-intensity red LEDs.
Holding one of the pushbuttons
down while turning the power on
will load a “default move time” into
EEPROM. Use S1 for 10 seconds, S2
for 20 seconds, S3 for 40 seconds
and S4 for 60 seconds. This time is
saved until changed. With the power
switched on, the same pushbuttons
select one of four programs. These
are: S1 games timer; S2: single die;
S3: double dice and S4: two-up.
To increase battery life, the dot
matrix display is blank until one of
the buttons is pressed. Sound effects
are provided by a piezo transducer
(Altronics S6140) from pin 3 of IC1.
To select games timer mode, a
player presses timer button S1 and
the time will start counting down
from the default move time. A player
failing to complete their move before
zero is reached will lose the game.
JUMBO 40mm DOT MATRIX
COM
C0
C6
13
17
IC1
PICAXE 20 M 2
C3
ICSP
HEADER
5x 47Ω
18
K
K
A
After a successful move, the player again presses the timer button,
reloading the default move time, and
starting the count-down for the other
player. This repeats until the game is
over while pressing any other button
cancels the games timer. There is a
clock tick as the timer counts down
and a double beep if a player loses
a game.
To select single or double dice
modes, begin with a blank display
and then push either the S2 or S3
button. You will then hear a “rolling
dice sound” until the pushbutton is
released. Then a random single or
double dice will be displayed for
three seconds before returning to
the blank display.
The two-up mode is similar to dice
mode, except you use button S4 and
the display shows H and T characters
to represent the heads and tails sides
of the coin. The dice modes and the
two-up mode use a more compact
3x3 matrix for all dice faces.
The games timer program uses the
“time” variable in BASIC to regulate
the seconds count, while the dice
programs employ “for-next” loops to
7
TYPE
NUMBER
DISP1
1
8
14
FRO N T OF DISPLAY
continually generate random numbers whenever the display is blank.
This relies on the players pausing
between button presses.
Four input pins on IC1 monitor
pushbuttons S1-S4 and have internal pull-up resistors enabled in
the software. For reliable operation
use pushbuttons containing “snap
action“ or “tactile“ mechanisms.
The prototype was fitted with four
Altronics S1099 pushbuttons.
The dot matrix display has 14
pins arranged in two rows of seven.
The display data does not show how
these pins are numbered; check the
rear view of DISP1 on the circuit.
The circuit also includes an ICSP
header to download software into
microcontroller IC1 and uses pin
2 as the serial input and pin 19 as
the serial output. You will require a
special PICAXE serial or USB cable
to transfer the timer_dice20m2.bas
BASIC program – see www.picaxe.
com for further information. You can
download the software from www.
siliconchip.com.au
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($70)
February 2016 73
Pt.2 By Nicholas Vinen
High-performance stereo
valve preamplifier
Having described how our new stereo valve preamp works and
how to put the PCB together, now it’s time to build the case. This
houses the PCB so that you can still see all the components but
can’t touch the high-voltage sections. It’s custom designed and
made from clear acrylic, glued and screwed together.
T
HE STEREO Valve Preamplifier
PCB was originally designed to
fit inside a UB2 “jiffy” box. However,
because it has connectors on the back
and controls on the front (including a
volume knob), it’s pretty much impossible to actually get it inside such a box
even after drilling the required holes.
74 Silicon Chip
Rather than compromise the practicality of the device to allow it to fit
in that box, by doing something like
putting the inputs on the front or
side, we have designed a custom case
instead. This is made in three sections
which screw together so you can get it
apart if necessary. We think the result
is much more attractive – hopefully
you’ll agree after seeing the photos of
the prototype.
We’re using clear 3mm acrylic to
show off the components and the cutting pattern is shown in Fig.8. It can
be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website (free for subscribers) in a varisiliconchip.com.au
ety of formats to suit typical laser cutter software, including AutoCad DXF.
We used a 60W CO2 laser operating
at full power and at a speed of 8mm/s
(10mm/s also works but we’re being
a little conservative to ensure it cuts
reliably).
The parts are cut from a sheet
of acrylic measuring at least 230 x
315mm. The cuts shown in red are
done first, in case the sheet isn’t perfectly flat. In this case, if the outer
sections were cut first they could shift
slightly and then the inner cuts would
be less accurately placed. We have
optimised the cutting path to eliminate
the duplication of overlapping cuts,
although typical laser cutters have an
extremely high degree of repeatability
so this will generally not affect the
quality of the end result.
The case pieces incorporate holes in
the top for the valves and some cooling slots over the power supply. The
front panel has holes for the power
switch, volume pot, its anti-rotation
tab and the two power LEDs, while
the rear panel has holes for the input
and output RCA sockets and the DC
power connector. There are also four
screw holes in the top and bottom
panels corresponding to holes on the
PCB, to hold the whole thing together.
If you’ve building the musical instrument version of the PCB with the
extra panpot (VR2) and mixed output
(CON5), we’ll supply a modified version of the cutting diagram with these
extra holes. Their locations are shown
in Fig.9, relative to the pre-cut holes.
Putting it together
You will now have the completed
PCB, six case pieces (with protective
film on both sides) and an assortment
of machine screws, tapped spacers
and feet (as specified in he parts list
last month). Start by removing the two
12AX7 valves (or “vacuum tubes”, if
you prefer) and setting these aside so
they won’t get damaged. Don’t put
them on a surface they might roll off!
The bottom, rear and side panels of
the case are glued together into one
assembly which screws to the PCB.
The top panel is also screwed to the
PCB while the front panel is held on
by the potentiometer nut(s). The PCB
is sandwiched between the top panel
and the bottom panel assembly and
held in place with screws and spacers.
It’s a good idea to check that everything will fit before gluing. Leave
siliconchip.com.au
Note: diagram not to scale
Fig.8: the laser cutting pattern used to produce the six pieces for the Stereo
Valve Preamplifier case, from a 230 x 315mm piece of 3mm-thick clear acrylic
(Perspex). The sections shown in red are cut first to maximise precision of the
hole placement. Note the cooling slots in the top cover, which go over the power
supply circuitry. The prototype lacked an onboard power switch so a hole has
been added to the front panel for the final version (note: diagram not to scale).
the protective film on the case pieces
for now, so they don’t get scuffed or
dirty – clear acrylic shows fingerprints
quite well unfortunately, so you want
to avoid getting these on the inside of
the case if possible, where they’re hard
to clean off.
Using Fig.10 as a guide, pass an
M3 x 32mm machine screw through
a hole in the top panel and screw on
one of the shorter spacers. Do it up
tight against the underside of the lid,
then thread the other spacer on and
repeat the procedure for the remaining corners.
Next, orientate the lid so that the
valve socket holes are above the sockets, then push the protruding screw
threads through the PCB mounting
holes and attach the M3 x 25mm tapped
February 2016 75
M3 x 32mm MACHINE SCREW
Rear panel
CASE TOP PANEL
25.4mm
( 8.25mm)
25.4mm
2 x 9mm or 1 x 6.3mm & 1 x 12mm
TAPPED NYLON SPACERS
50.8mm
PCB
25mm TAPPED SPACER
Front panel
50.8mm
20.32mm
CASE BOTTOM PANEL
22.86mm
RUBBER FOOT
Note: diagram not to scale
7.62mm
( 8.25mm)
Fig.9: here’s where to drill the extra holes in the rear panel (for the mixed
output RCA socket, CON5) and in the front panel (for panpot VR2) if required
spacers to hold the PCB in place.
You can then screw the bottom panel
on using the remaining 10mm machine
screws (no need to fit feet just yet).
With the top and bottom panels held
rigidly in place, check that the rear
panel fits. The RCA sockets will be a
relatively tight fit through the holes
but assuming they have been soldered
evenly, it should slide into place. Otherwise, you may need to use a tapered
reamer to open the holes up slightly.
RCA sockets
Note that, on our prototype, we used
the RCA sockets which are available
from our online shop, because it’s hard
to find white sockets of this type at the
usual retailers. They have a slightly
different footprint but will fit on the
board with some slight bending of
the pins.
We mention this because this is
likely to affect the height that the sock-
ets sit at, so if you use a different type,
they may not line up with the holes in
the case. In that case, you would either
need to adjust the RCA socket height
by melting the solder joints (tricky) or
simply enlarge the panel holes until
they fit through.
You may find, depending on the exact height of the spacers you have used,
that the rear panel will be slightly too
tall to fit between the top and bottom
panels. In our prototype, it was an
almost an exact fit but spacer lengths
can vary slightly. In this case, you may
need to add some sort of a shim (eg,
a washer or two) somewhere in the
spacer stack to increase the gap enough
for the panel to fit correctly.
Assuming it fits OK, remove the nut
from the pot(s) and fit the front panel.
This can be held in place temporarily
with the potentiometer nut(s). If necessary, reach behind the front panel
using small pliers to push the LEDs
Changing The Preamp’s Gain
The circuit as presented last month has a maximum gain of four times (12dB).
While the output swing is limited by the valve operating conditions, if you have
a situation with low-level input signals, you may wish to increase this. This can
be achieved by increasing the value of the 10kΩ 1W resistors to the lower left of
each valve socket.
For example, using a 15kΩ resistor will give a gain of 15kΩ ÷ 3.3kΩ + 1 = 5.5
times or 15dB. A 22kΩ resistor will give 22kΩ ÷ 3.3kΩ + 1 = 7.5 times or 17.5dB.
And a 30kΩ resistor gives a gain of 10 times or 20dB.
Note though that increasing the gain will slightly prejudice the performance by
increasing the distortion and reducing the signal-to-noise ratio. Having said that,
the performance as specified is sufficiently good that you probably won’t notice
the difference.
76 Silicon Chip
M3 x 10mm MACHINE SCREW
Fig.10: the top panel, bottom panel
and PCB are sandwiched together
using four sets of machine screws
and tapped spacers. This spaces the
top and bottom panels the correct
distance apart for the front, back
and side panels to fit. If they’re
too close together, add 3mm inner
diameter washers in each stack as
shims.
through their respective holes.
With the front and rear panels in
place, it should be possible to slide
the side panels into place.
Gluing the case
Once you’ve confirmed that everything fits, disassemble it and peel the
protective film off the pieces. Reassemble the top and bottom halves and
the PCB as before, using the screws
and tapped spacers, to form a rigid
assembly.
The parts are glued together using a
specialised, solvent-type plastic adhesive formula. We used SciGrip “Weld
On” 16 fast set clear, medium-bodied
solvent cement. This is available from
Plastix [Sydney (02) 9599 2499, Northern Beaches (02) 9939 0555].
With a clean cloth at hand to wipe up
any excess, the next step is to glue two
pieces of the case together (see below)
by applying a moderate amount of the
adhesive to all the mating surfaces
and then pressing and holding them
together. Try to avoid getting any of
the adhesive on the faces, especially
via your fingers.
Start by gluing the rear panel to the
base. Make sure it’s pressed in fully
until the adhesive sets (this takes a few
minutes). You may find that friction
holds it in for you, otherwise you may
siliconchip.com.au
The rear panel of the case has holes for the RCA stereo input and output sockets and a square cut-out to provide access
to the DC power socket. Note the ventilation slots in the top cover above regulator REG1 and Mosfet Q2.
Warning
Improving The Bass Response
Voltages of up to 285V DC are
present on the PCB when power
is applied and whenever the red
LED is lit. Do not operate this unit
without the top cover in place.
A reader has brought to our attention the fact that the circuit as presented last
month could have a significant amount of bass attenuation when driving a fairly
typical power amplifier load impedance of around 10kΩ.
have to hold it. Once it’s nice and rigid,
carefully unscrew the base and remove
the two panels which are now joined.
You can then glue the two side panels
on, again making sure they are pressed
in fully before it sets.
Don’t use great dollops of glue but
don’t be too stingy either. If you’re
quick, you can wipe off any excess
from the outside with a cloth.
Leave this assembly aside for some
time (ideally, overnight) before re-fitting
it using the four screws. If you have
stick-on rubber feet, stick them on now,
otherwise attach screw-on feet using
the four mounting screws. That’s what
we did on the prototype (see photos).
Fitting the front panel
All that’s left is to push the front
panel in place, ensuring the LEDs
pass through the two holes, attach the
potentiometer nut and fit the knob. If
you find the front panel won’t sit flat,
it may be that the LEDs are protruding
too far and pushing on it. Pressing them
siliconchip.com.au
This is because the 220nF output coupling capacitor is not quite large enough.
Our Audio Precision test equipment has a 100kΩ input impedance and in combination with the 220nF coupling capacitor and 1MΩ onboard bias resistor, this
results in a -3dB point of around 8Hz.
However, with a 10kΩ load impedance, the -3dB frequency increases by nearly
a factor of 10, to 72Hz. We’ve confirmed this by simulating the full preamp circuit
(see the graph in Ask SILICON CHIP). This is not an unrealistic load impedance;
for example, our Ultra-LD Mk.2, Mk.3 & Mk.4 power amplifiers all have an input
impedance of around 11.8kΩ.
The solution is simple: increase the coupling capacitor value. At the very least,
use 470nF 630V capacitors (one in each channel) for a -3dB point of 34Hz for
a 10kΩ load. Ideally, though, they should be at least 1μF. The simplest way to
achieve this is to use pairs of parallel 470nF capacitors, one on either side of the
PCB for each channel. This will yield a -3dB point below 20Hz.
carefully back into the case should fix
this. You will need to do this to both
LEDs or the result could look strange.
It’s now ready to use. Remember that
it takes 10-15 seconds each time you
power it up before the HT rail rises to
its normal level and all the bias voltages
stabilise. Until then you aren’t likely
to get much output. Ideally, wait 30
seconds or so after powering up for it
to achieve a reasonable level of performance. The valves will continue to
warm up for some minutes and this
may affect performance slightly.
Note: Altronics have announced that
they are in the process of preparing a
kit for this project, Cat. K5192.
The plan is for it to be a complete kit,
including the parts required to make
the case. However, the case may not
be identical to the one described here.
Instructions regarding the case assembly will be supplied with the kit. SC
February 2016 77
Keithley’s 2460
Sourcemeter
Review by Jim Rowe
The Keithley 2460 SMU (Source Measure Unit) is a programmable 100W
DC power source and load combined with a 6.5-digit DMM. Most of its
functions can be controlled via its large touch screen or from a PC via
its USB input. As well as functioning as a DC power supply, it can be used
to plot a wide range of parameters for high power semiconductor devices.
S
o what exactly is an SMU and
what’s it used for?
Well, what would you need
for measuring the I/V (current/voltage) characteristics of a wide range of
semiconductor devices – like diodes,
bipolar transistors and Mosfets?
First, you’d need at least one accurately adjustable DC power supply
or ‘source’, plus one or more accurate
DMMs (digital multimeters) to measure the device current and voltage.
You would also need a program78 Silicon Chip
mable electronic load.
Combine all that and you would
have something like the Keithley
2460. Not only does it have a digitally
programmable DC source, a programmable electronic load and a 6.5-digit
DMM, there’s also a microcontroller
capable of running multi-level ‘sweep’
scripts to measure the current drawn
by the DUT (device under test) at a
series of programmable voltage levels, and then displaying the results
in either tabular form or as an I/V
graphical plot.
It could also be used for applications
like cycling of rechargeable batteries
and characterisation of electrochemical deposition, corrosion and electroplating.
Most of the test parameters and
settings are made via its 127mm
(diagonal) touch-screen colour LCD,
using a series of menu screens. The
touch-screen incorporates ‘swipe’,
‘pinch’ and ‘zoom’ functions, for intuitive manipulation of the on-screen
siliconchip.com.au
A closeup of the rear of the Keithley 2460, showing the range of comms I/O
connectors along the bottom and the power input at upper right. The orange
terminal strip in the centre provides the alternative ‘rear’ test connections.
displays (just like on a smart-phone).
Capabilities
The programmable source and
load can together provide full fourquadrant measurements, with a maximum source voltage of ±105V and a
maximum current level of ±7A (DC or
pulse). Maximum voltage and current
are not available at the same time; the
maximum power rating is 100W.
The 6.5-digit DMM offers a basic
accuracy of 0.012%, six voltage measuring ranges covering 200.0000mV to
100.0000V full scale, with resolutions
ranging from 100nV to 100µV, and 10
current measuring ranges covering
from 1.000000µA to 7.000000A full
scale, with resolutions ranging from
1pA to 1µA.
There are eight resistance measurement ranges, with either local or
remote sensing, 2-wire or 4-wire measurement and full scale readings ranging from 2.000000Ω (resolution 1µΩ)
to 20.0000MΩ (resolution 10Ω), plus
a ninth range for values over 20MΩ
using a user-defined test current.
As well as offering a wide choice of
source and measurement setting options, the 2460’s micro has an in-built
Test Script Processor (TSP) function
which allows it to run built-in scripts
for multi-level ‘sweeps’ and I/V curve
plotting. It also offers four ‘Quickset’
options to enable one-touch set-ups
for basic measurement jobs like a voltmeter, an ammeter, an ohmmeter and
an accurately programmable power
supply.
Other neat features offered by the
2460 in ‘local’ (ie, free-standing) mode
include the ability to select either
continuous or single-shot testing with
manual triggering via a button on
the front panel, the ability to choose
between test connectors on either the
front or rear panels, a built-in contextsensitive help facility, the ability to
choose either manual or automatic
measurement ranges and also the ability to select Linear, Log, Dual Linear,
Dual Log and Custom sweeps.
There’s also a USB 2.0 port on the
front panel for saving test scripts as
well as test results to external USB
memory. The connection options
on the rear panel comprise an RJ-45
Ethernet connector, a USB type B
socket, a female DB-9 connector for
Here’s the 2460’s
built-in main Menu
screen, used for
selecting just about all
of its configuration,
testing and display
functions via the
touch-screen facility. It
even provides ‘swipe’,
‘pinch’ and ‘zoom’
functions, like a smartphone.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 79
a shunt’s resistance value as a
function of current – right up
to current levels of 7A. That’s
not something you can easily do with the 7562 alone, or
with any standard DMM for
that matter.
I also tried setting the Power
Supply section of the 2460 to
various reference DC voltages
and checking its output with
my trusty Yokogawa. The results were again very impressive, with the readings on the
7562 within 15 ppm of the voltage settings on the 2460. For
example, a setting of ‘10.0000V’
gave a reading of ‘10.00008 V’,
while a setting of ‘2.04800V’
gave a reading of ‘2.04802 V’.
After this I tried using the
2460’s built-in ‘Sweep’ script to
check the voltage-current charThis is the other main screen displayed by the 2460 – the Home screen, used to set
up, configure and numerically display the test parameters. It too makes full use of the
acteristic of various 2-terminal
touch-screen facility, to make testing fast and intuitive.
semiconductor devices, like a
forward-biased LED, a standard
direct digital connections, a pair of Configuration Panel, which is used to 1A silicon diode and then a Schottky
TSP-Link connectors for linking into install and set up the various drivers diode. Then I progressed to checking
the reverse-biased characteristic of a
a multi-instrument test system and an needed to link the 2460 to the PC.
IEEE-488 connector for GPIB interconPart of the Configuration Panel soft- 3.9V zener diode, in each case using
nection.
ware appears to be a subset of National the 2460’s ‘Graph’ mode to plot the
Most users will probably want to Instruments’ NI-VISA 5.3 Runtime, E/I curve directly on its screen (see
the screen shots in Figs.1&2 below).
link up the 2460 to their laptop via which gets installed along with it.
Then it was time to try linking it up
either USB or Ethernet, and with this
to my Asus P550L i7 laptop PC, runin mind it comes with cables for either. What we found
To make it possible for users to start
Initially and in order to become ning Windows 7 Pro (64-bit). So folmaking measurements with the 2460 familiar with the 2460 and its touch- lowing the instructions in Keithley’s
as quickly as possible, it comes with a screen menu, I tried performing quick KickStart Software Quick Start Guide,
CD-ROM providing both ‘Quick Start’ ‘manual’ tests like 4-wire measure- I started installing the necessary softand ‘Reference’ user manuals in PDF ments on low-value resistors and ware and drivers for a USB connection
form, plus a free instrument control/ current shunts of known value. Here between the two.
This turned out to be quite a rigstartup software package called Kick- the results compared very closely with
Start.
the readings from my Yokogawa 7562 marole and along the way you find
The latter incorporates the KickStart 6.5-digit DMM. However due to the yourself asked to verify your agreecontrol application and a comms extra capabilities of the 2460 I was ment with various software copyright
configuration manager called Keithley
also able to measure the variation in licences – not just with Keithley, but
Fig.1: The E-I plot of a red LED, as displayed directly on
the 2460’s screen by selecting the ‘Graph’ tab at the top.
80 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: Again displayed directly on the 2460’s screen this
shows the reverse bias E-I plot for a 3.9V zener diode.
siliconchip.com.au
also with National Instruments
and another crowd called IVI
Foundation Inc.
And some of the software components seem to need you to set
various options, some of which
are not covered in the Quick Start
Guide; not straightforward, at all!
When I thought I had installed
all the software, plugged in the
USB cable from the 2460 and
then tried firing up the KickStart
software to see if they could ‘talk’
to each other, they couldn’t.
KickStart couldn’t find the instrument at all and showed only
its built-in ‘virtual instrument
simulations’.
Confusingly, when I went into
Windows’ Control Panel and then
Device Manager, it was showing
the 2460 as a USB Test and Meas- Fig.3: the KickStart software screen when showing the results of the zener diode E-I
urement Device (IVI) and said it test, performed again remotely via the USB interface. Note the less than ideal graph
legend visibility, due to the mid-grey background. Currently you have to export the
was ‘working properly’.
This was promising, and when I graph as a PNG file and print it out to get full visibility.
also fired up Keithley’s Configuration Panel it too showed the 2460 as
As you can see from the screen grab uring flexibility way beyond that of
hooked up and operating correctly. So of Fig.3, the graph window background standard DMMs, the Keithley 2460
why wasn’t KickStart able to find it?
seems to be fixed at a mid-grey, with SMU is a surprisingly easy instrument
Hmmm – perhaps my copy of Kick- the axis lines and legends in black.
to ‘drive’ – whether you are using it
Start was somehow corrupted. So I
Although you can change the colour
alone or hooked up to a PC running
tried going to the Keithley/Tektronix of the graph plot itself for maximum the KickStart software.
website and downloading a fresh copy visibility, this still makes it a bit difIt would therefore make a good
of the latest version. Then it was a mat- ficult to read the legends.
choice for anyone who needs to do
ter of uninstalling the original copy of
The only way to get a really clear a lot of characteristic curve plotting.
KickStart, extracting everything from image of a graph seems to be to export
the new download and installing it it as a PNG image file, then import it Where do you get it?
all over again.
into an image editor like Photoshop or
Australian readers should contact
This time I also tried to stay focussed Paint.net and either view it on screen Vicom at their Melbourne office, phone
on the various options which needed or print it out like the graph shown in (03) 9575 0111, or via their website:
to be selected during the installation Fig.4 (below).
www.vicom.com.au/page/173/vicom– particularly those for the NI-VISA
By the way KickStart also allows --smus or email: info<at>vicom.com.au
Runtime drivers. In fact I made sure you to export test results in tabular
New Zealand readers can contact
that ALL of the drivers were selected form, in either Excel or CSV (comma the Auckland office on (09) 3794596,
for installation this time, even those separated variable) formats.
or via the NZ website www.vicom.
that didn’t seem to be appropriate
So the bottom line is that as well co.nz/page/173/vicom---smus or email:
SC
when I was only preparing for USB as having high accuracy plus meas- info<at>vicom.co.nz
communication.
Finally, this time KickStart was able
to ‘find’ the 2460 SMU and I was able
to try using the laptop to control the
2460 as a complete ‘testing system’.
Now setting up and running tests and
characteristic plots for various devices
proved to be even easier and more
intuitive than with the 2460 by itself.
Mind you, my laptop doesn’t have a
touch-screen, so I had to do all of the
on-screen setting up using the mouse...
Perhaps my only real criticism of
KickStart is that it doesn’t seem to offer Fig.4: this printout of the above screen shows the rather dramatic difference in
much in the way of options regarding legibility over the on-screen view above (Fig.3). It’s a shame that there is no way
on-screen graph visibility.
to adjust screen contrast, etc, to achieve a much clearer result.
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 81
Vintage Radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
The 1948 Healing
L502E 5-valve radio
Boasting excellent performance, the
Healing L502E was released in 1948 and
is a fairly conventional 5-valve superhet
receiver. A number of different models
share the same cabinet design, with some
unusual mechanical linkages used for the
on/off switch and tone controls.
A
MONG MY COLLECTION of vintage radios are four Healing models which all have the same cabinet
style. Two of them are model 502Es (the
more common type) and these have a
loop antenna coil that also serves as an
inductor for the tuned RF front-end. By
contrast, one of the remaining two sets,
a model L502E, uses a conventional
aerial coil in place of the loop antenna.
The fourth set is a battery-powered
82 Silicon Chip
model 553A and this set uses a vibrator to generate HT from its 6V battery
power supply. Healing consistently
used an “A” suffix in their model
numbers to designate battery-powered
“farm radios” and an “E” suffix for
those powered from mains electricity.
In my opinion, many vintage radio
collectors progress through several
phases that can be roughly summarised as tentative, then manic
The attractive singing canary emblem
on the Healing receivers is made of
enamelled brass.
and finally mature. My first Healing
acquisition, in my manic phase, was
the model 553A farm radio, which I
obtained from eBay. I confess that I was
enamoured with the graceful shape of
the case and the charm of the singing
canary emblem.
That first radio was advertised
with one missing control knob. This
was subsequently reproduced using a
plastic milk-bottle lid which just happened to have the correct dimensions
and a comparable knurled edge. This
lid was filled with car body filler and a
hole drilled to fit the set’s control shaft.
The colour was carefully matched to
the Bakelite by judiciously daubing
the part with black and brown paint.
When that radio originally arrived
by post, it was missing the knob as
expected but what wasn’t expected
was that its valves were also missing.
This was part of a learning experience
to check advertised radios for the common parts that “handymen” remove
and put in their junk boxes (badges,
knobs and valves). Knobs removed
from the sides of cabinets are particularly hard to pick from frontal pictures.
Fortunately, the Golden Voice emblem was still in place. This emblem
is made of enamelled brass and cleans
up well with Brasso polish.
As an aside, the phrase “Golden
Voice” was also used by Motorola
in the US for their radios and other
equipment but the logo had a different
appearance to that used by Healing. I
haven’t found any links behind that
shared usage.
The set described here is a 1948
model 502E, made not long after World
War 2. When the war ended, Healing
proudly declared that “Australia’s
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Healing 502E is a
conventional 5-valve superhet
receiver with a loop antenna
coil. The L502E is identical
except that it uses a separate
aerial coil, as shown in the
inset.
largest manufacturer of radar receivers” was now “devoted to producing
radio receivers for every Australian
home. And Golden Voice is right ‘Back
On its Perch’ at your Healing Dealer,
waiting to show you just how good the
much-promised post-war radios really
are. In vacuum-pressed veneer consoles and rich plastic mantel cabinets,
each Golden Voice Radio is a thing of
beauty and, of course, unsurpassed for
quality and tone”.
Healing’s claim of high quality
and clarity of tone has some validity.
Both of my model 502s give excellent
reproduction from their 8-inch Rola
speakers.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the Healing Model 502E. There are no
radical surprises here and no corners
were cut for the sake of economy.
However, it’s worth noting that, at
the time, Healing also made a smaller
4-valve economy model designated the
401E. This “kitchen radio” did omit
as many parts as possible to drive the
cost down.
As shown in Fig.1, the Healing 502E
is a fairly conventional 5-valve super
siliconchip.com.au
The author’s L502E receiver prior to restoration. It was covered in dust, had
missing knobs and valves, and came with spider webs and a wasp nest.
het design employing a 6A8 mixer
oscillator, a 6U7 IF amplifier, a 6B6
detector/AGC/audio preamplifier, 6V6
pentode output and a 5Y3 rectifier. The
tone control circuit is somewhat more
complicated than usual, with feedback
from the output transformer via bass
control pot R18 to a tap on the volume
control to provide bass boost.
An unusual feature is a 4.5VAC tap
on the 6.3V transformer secondary
winding to power the two 6.3V dial
lamps. This presumably extended
the life of the dial lamps which are
mounted behind the rear edge of the
plastic dial face. The lighting is rather
dull as a result of this arrangement but
still perfectly OK in a dark room.
Running the lamps at less than their
rated voltage may have extended their
February 2016 83
This view shows the 502E after the under-chassis restoration work had been completed. Some parts are difficult to
access as they are buried under other components.
life but it certainly wasn’t indefinite.
The two sets in my collection both
came with darkened open-circuit
lamps.
As with many similar sets, the 502E
has a gramophone “pick-up”, with the
signal fed in via an RCA-type socket
in the middle-rear of the chassis to the
top of the volume control pot. There is
no provision to mute the radio section
when it is used with a gramophone
pick-up though, so presumably it
was just a matter of the user tuning
off-station, to a quiet part of the dial.
The four control knobs have a
twin concentric configuration and
are used for power on-off switching,
volume control, tone control and
tuning. Switch pots weren’t common at the time and so the 502 uses
an articulated linkage to connect the
rotary outer righthand control shaft to
a rotary switch for the mains power.
The righthand central control shaft is
used for tuning.
A mechanical linkage is also present on the lefthand side, with the
outer control shaft fitted with a friction
wheel. This in turn drives a wheel on
the shaft of the separate tone control
pot. The lefthand central shaft controls the volume pot. Basically, the
engineering techniques used for these
controls were driven by the aesthetics
of the case design.
Restoration
The Healing L502E in the photos is
the most recently acquired of my four
Healings and came from a deceased
estate. It’s fair to say that its previous
owner was more a hoarder than a collector. Many sets in his collection had
been tinkered with and then sent to
ignominious storage on dusty shelves.
When I acquired it, the L502E was
missing all its knobs but came complete with spider webs and a rock-like
mud-wasp nest between the tuning
gang and the chassis. This wasp’s nest
had penetrated between the vanes of
the tuning gang but I was able to remove it using a stiff wire brush.
Unfortunately, the set’s exposed
steel surfaces all showed significant
rust, including on the tuning gang,
the dial light enclosure and the mains
transformer casing. These rusted surfaces were all abrasively cleaned and
painted to match the original finish.
The folded metal chassis didn’t
have any rust because it is made of
aluminium. However, the aluminium
had degraded in many places to either an oxide or salts of aluminium.
A good clean-up using scrapers and
steel wool restored a gleam to most of
this metalwork.
Missing valves
This front view of a 502E chassis shows the unusual curved dial-face and the
mechanical linkages used for the on/off switch (right) and the tone control (left).
84 Silicon Chip
Having completed the chassis cleanup, it was time to restore the circuit
to working order. Both the 6V6 and
5Y3 valves had been removed from
the radio. At first, I thought that they
might have been removed for use in
another radio. However, the collection this radio came from included a
number of valve testers, so it was more
than likely that these valves had been
removed for testing and had failed.
siliconchip.com.au
The 502E chassis is easily identified by the loop
antenna coil next to the tuning gang. There’s also
a hole in the chassis where the aerial coil would
otherwise be installed.
A look under the chassis soon reinforced this latter theory. The underchassis layout is crowded and this
makes it difficult to replace certain
parts. In particular, the HT filter choke
(L5) blocks access to components
around the 6V6 and 5Y3 valves, so
I removed it for the duration of the
restoration. That choke was clearly
stamped with the date “22 OCT 1948”.
Once it was out, the cause of the
two valve failures could be readily
explained by the state of paper capacitors C12 (0.01µF) and C21 (0.02µF).
C12, in particular, had been deformed
by heat into an almost unrecognisable
blob with fly leads extending from it.
This capacitor is paralleled across
the output transformer’s primary, its
role being to bypass high frequencies
beyond the normal audible range.
Because C12 and T2 form an LC circuit, I suspect that, as the capacitor
deteriorated, it caused the 6V6 audio
output stage to oscillate, resulting in
high power dissipation. However, C21
was probably the main reason the two
valves failed.
C21’s failure is unremarkable, since
it’s used as a coupling capacitor between the 6B6 preamplifier and the
6V6 output stage and is subjected to
a high DC voltage. In fact, any paper
capacitor used in this role should be
routinely replaced due to the high
probability of DC leakage.
The evident failure of C21 in this
Healing set would have resulted in
a high positive grid bias on the 6V6.
This in turn lead to the destruction
of both the 6V6 and the 5Y3 rectifier
which supplies the current. Fortunately, when the 6V6 failed, the output
transformer remained intact.
C22 had deteriorated so badly that
it had lost its outer wrapping and so
its value was no longer visible. This
capacitor functions as a cathode bypass on the 6V6 and so a new 22µF
The model L502E
uses a conventional
aerial coil instead
of the loop antenna
coil used in the
502E. It’s shown
here nestled between
the first IF coil and
the loudspeaker (ie,
immediately behind
the tuning condenser
and the 6A8 mixeroscillator valve).
siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 85
on-off toggle switch of this radio did
not switch off, so it was bypassed.
The last bit of preparatory wiring,
prior to switch-on, was to replace the
dilapidated twin-core (figure-8) mains
lead a 3-core flex so that the chassis
could be securely earthed. The original
figure-8 was retained by a knot inside
the chassis which is now illegal. As a
result, the replacement mains cable
was firmly secured to the chassis with
an approved clamp.
Applying power
The Healing 502E & L502E sets carried a “Pick-Up” socket on the rear of the
chassis so that a turntable could be plugged in. There was no provision to
mute the radio section when this was done though.
40V electrolytic was installed in this
location. The two HT filter electrolytics were also replaced with new
capacitors.
Paper capacitors C20, C8 and C19
all showed signs of failure at their
pitch-filled ends and so these too were
replaced. The remaining capacitors
were buried under wiring and other
components and were left in place for
the time being. The idea was to replace
individual capacitors later only if that
proved necessary.
Apart from the difficulty of doing
so, there is a good argument for not
replacing all of the original capacitors.
Component failure is most likely in
the initial operating period if there is
a defect and any parts that pass soaktesting can be left in place.
It’s worth noting here that the debacle of failing electrolytics in the
early 2000s has now passed into history. Those failures were attributable
to inappropriate aqueous electrolyte
mixtures that are no longer used.
The replacement capacitors used
for this restoration were sourced from
the component bank of the Historical
Radio Society of Australia (HRSA),
a service which is only available to
members. However, 630V polyester
capacitors are readily available from
Jaycar. Replacement 6V6 and 5Y3
valves for this radio were also obtained
from the HRSA.
The broken dial cord was replaced
with some difficulty, due to three
separate turns being required around
the dial drum. In addition, the mains
A Brief History Of A. G. Healing & Co
A. G. Healing was founded by Alfred
George Healing who was born in 1868
in Richmond, Victoria. In 1898, at the
age of 30, Healing obtained the Victorian
agency for the English Haddon bicycle
and operated as A. G. Healing & Company in a small factory and shop in Bridge
Road, Richmond.
In 1921 the factory was relocated to
the corner of Queensbury and Elizabeth
Streets, Melbourne. The staff grew to
about 50 and 25,000 bicycles were made
per year at the peak of production, with
sales to all states.
86 Silicon Chip
In 1925, Healing diversified into radio
manufacture. They also simultaneously
imported Atwater-Kent radios from the
US but tariffs and limits on imports
eventually saw the company discontinue
this brand.
The most highly-valued radio in the
Healing line-up is the 403E “Scales” model (SILICON CHIP, March 2006), a 4-valve
set which sold from the late 1940s to the
early 1950s. The company survived into
the TV era and in 1959, the electronics
division became part of Rank Industries.
It ceased manufacturing in 1975.
Next, the valves were all removed
and the power applied. The dial lights
glowed encouragingly, the set’s power
consumption was around the expected
10W and the transformer stayed cool.
The rewired chassis looked like it had
a fair chance of working at switch on
once the valves had been reinstalled
and an antenna connected.
For once, my optimism proved to
be well-founded. I applied power
and was rewarded a short time later
with some low-level hum and then a
slightly off-station signal. I corrected
the tuning and then tuned right across
the dial. Everything worked fine, the
radio sounded great and the power
consumption settled at a steady 55W.
Cabinet restoration
The cabinet looked exactly as you
would expect it to look after languishing on a dusty shelf for many years.
A quick clean up with some warm
soapy water and a silicone car polish
soon brought out the hidden beauty,
after which the torn grille fabric was
replaced with new material.
The plastic speaker grille at the front
of the cabinet was straightened with
the aid of carefully applied heat from
a heat-gun. This wasn’t completely
successful but the end result was
quite passable and it certainly looked
a lot better than it did before. Unfortunately, a distorted speaker grille is a
near-universal feature on the cabinets
of these old Healing radios.
Another problem was that the sleeve
and friction drive for the tone control
was absent. As a result, the tone control was simply set to an agreeable setting and left at that setting. Two large
knobs that covered the case holes were
then installed for volume and tuning.
Perhaps a genuine knob set will turn
up for this radio in the future, although
I have yet to see any of these unique
SC
knobs for sale.
siliconchip.com.au
20
16
IC U HO SEE
ON SE W
CH IT TO
IP IN
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siliconchip.com.au
February 2016 87
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As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and
some selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
PIC18F4550-I/P
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13). Driveway Monitor Receiver (July15)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13),
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13) 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13),
Nicad/NiMH Burp Charger (Mar14) Remote Mains Timer (Nov14),
Driveway Monitor Transmitter (July15) Fingerprint Scanner (Nov15)
MPPT Lighting Charge Controller (Feb16)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12),
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite Mk2 (Jan15) – also includes FREE 47F tantalum capacitor
Micromite LCD Backpack [either version] (Feb 16)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SP
Low Frequency Distortion Analyser (Apr15) Bad Vibes (June 15)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Now with Mk2 Firmware at no extra cost)
PIC32MX250F128B-I/SP
GPS Tracker (Nov13) Micromite ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14)
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14),
Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/P
Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
PIC18F14K50
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
PIC18LF14K22
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, HARD-TO-GET
BITS, ETC
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER
includes PCB, micro and 2.8-inch touchscreen
(Feb 16)
$60.00
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER -
(Jan 16)
$30.00
ARDUINO-BASED ECG SHIELD - all SMD components
ULTRA LD Mk 4 - plastic sewing machine bobbin for L2 – pack 2
VOLTAGE/CURRENT/RESISTANCE REFERENCE - all SMD components#
(Oct 15)
$25.00
100µH SMD inductor, 3x low-profile 400V capacitors & 0.33Ω resistor
# includes precision resistor. Specify either 1.8V or 2.5V
(Oct 15)
$2.00
(Aug 15)
$12.50
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR all SMD components
(July 15) $10.00
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER - TDA1543 16-bit Stereo DAC IC
(Jun 15)
$2.50
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR - all SMD components inc.12 NE5532D ICs, 8 SMD diodes, SMD
caps, polypropylene caps plus all 0.1% resistors (SMD & through-hole)
P&P – $10 Per order#
- All SMD parts
NEW: MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK ***** COMPLETE KIT *****
(Nov 14)
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT WM8371 DAC IC & SMD Capacitors [Same components
also suit Stereo Echo & Reverb, Feb14 & Dual Channel Audio Delay Nov 14]
AD8038ARZ Video Amplifier ICs (SMD)
(Oct14)
$15.00
$25.00
For Active Differential Probe (Pack of 3)
(Sept 14) $12.50
44-PIN MICROMITE Complete kit inc PCB, micro etc
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER - AOT11N60L 600V Mosfet
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER - all SMD parts and BSO150N03 Mosfets,
(Aug14)
$35.00
(May14)
$5.00
does not include micro (see above) nor parts listed as “optional”
(May14)
$20.00
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY- all SMD parts, 3 x BCM856DS & L2/L3
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR MCP2200 USB/Serial converter IC
(May 14)
$45.00
(Apr14)
$7.50
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
(Mar14)
$7.50
(May 15)
$65.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER - 600V logic-level Mosfet. 5 x HV resistors: (Apr15)
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE - Hard-to-get parts pack:
(Jan15)
$10.00
$40.00
10A 230V AC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
(Feb14)
$45.00
CDI – Hard-to-get parts pack: Transformer components (excluding wire),
$40.00
GPS Tracker MCP16301 SMD regulator IC and 15H inductor
SMD parts for SiDRADIO
(Nov13)
(Oct13)
$5.00
$20.00
all ICs, 1N5711 diodes, LED, high-voltage capacitors & resistors:
all ICs, Mosfets, UF4007 diodes, 1F X2 capacitor:
CURRAWONG AMPLIFIER Hard-to-get parts pack:
(Dec 14)
(Dec 14) $50.00
LM1084IT-ADJ, KCS5603D, 3 x STX0560, 5 x blue 3mm LEDs, 5 x 39F 400V low profile capacitors
1 SPD15P10 P-channel logic Mosfet & 1 IPP230N06L3 N-channel logic Mosfet
40A IGBT, 30A Fast Recovery Diode, IR2125 Driver and NTC Thermistor
Same as LF-UF Upconverter parts but includes 5V relay and BF998 dual-gate Mosfet.
RF Probe All SMD parts
(Aug13)
$5.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and included GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
02/16
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER/NECK COUPLER
SEP 2011
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODULE
NOV 2011
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
MAY 2012
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)DEC 2012
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB) JAN 2013
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
IPOD CHARGER
AUG 2013
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Main PCB
OCT 2013
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
For more unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
PCB CODE:
Price:
04103073 $30.00
01209101 $10.00
16110111 $30.00
23110111 $25.00
08110111 $25.00
01111111 $30.00
01111112 $20.00
01111113 $10.00
04111111 $20.00
07111111 $10.00
18112111
$5.00
01212111 $25.00
01212112/3 $20 per set
06101121 $10.00
01201121 $30.00
0120112P1/2 $20.00
01101121/2 $30 per set
01102121 $20.00
18102121
$5.00
04103121 $40.00
04103122 $40.00
04103123 $75.00
08102121 $10.00
14102112 $20.00
10104121 $10.00
04104121 $20.00
04104122 $20.00
10105122 $35.00
21105121 $30.00
21105122/3 $20 per set
01106121 $20.00
24105121 $30.00
08109121 $10.00
04106121 $20.00
04106122 $20.00
05106121 $20.00
05106122 $10.00
10107121 $10.00
03107121 $20.00
10108121 $10.00
04108121 $20.00
24109121 $30.00
24109122 $30.00
25108121 $20.00
07109121 $20.00
09109121 $10.00
03110121
$5.00
09110121 $10.00
16110121 $25.00
16110121 $20 per set
01108121 $30.00
01108122 $10.00
05110121 $10.00
04109121 $10.00
10105122 $35.00
01109121/2 $10.00
19111121 $10.00
04111121 $35.00
04111122 $15.00
04111123 $45.00
21102131 $20.00
12110121 $10.00
04103131 $10.00
16102131
$5.00
01102131 $40.00
01102132/3 $30.00
04104131 $15.00
08103131
$5.00
11104131 $15.00
12104131 $10.00
07106131 $10.00
15106131 $15.00
15106132
$7.50
01106131 $15.00
09107131 $15.00
09107132/3 $20.00/set
15106133 $15.00
15107131
$5.00
15107132 $10.00
14108131
$5.00
08104131 $10.00
04107131 $10.00
11108131
$5.00
05109131 $10.00
06109131 $35.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Front & Rear Panels
OCT 2013
06109132/3 $25.00/pr
TINY TIM AMPLIFIER (same PCB as Headphone Amp [Sept11])OCT 2013
01309111
$20.00
AUTO CAR HEADLIGHT CONTROLLER
OCT 2013
03111131
$10.00
GPS TRACKER
NOV 2013
05112131
$15.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY/DSP
NOV 2013
01110131
$15.00
BELLBIRD
DEC 2013
08112131
$10.00
PORTAPAL-D MAIN BOARDS
DEC 2013
01111131-3
$35.00/set
(for CLASSiC-D Amp board and CLASSiC-D DC/DC Converter board refer above [Nov 2012/May 2013])
LED Party Strobe (also suits Hot Wire Cutter [Dec 2010])
JAN 2014
16101141
$7.50
Bass Extender Mk2
JAN 2014
01112131
$15.00
Li’l Pulser Mk2 Revised
JAN 2014
09107134
$15.00
10A 230VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
FEB 2014
10102141
$12.50
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
MAR 2014
14103141
$15.00
RUBIDIUM FREQ. STANDARD BREAKOUT BOARD
APR 2014
04105141
$10.00
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR
APR 2014
07103141
$5.00
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
MAY 2014
10104141
$10.00
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER
MAY 2014
16105141
$10.00
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY
MAY 2014
18104141
$20.00
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
JUN 2014
01205141
$20.00
TOUCHSCREEN AUDIO RECORDER
JUL 2014
01105141
$12.50
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
JUL 2014
99106141
$10.00
MICROMITE ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
JUL 2014
24107141
$7.50
FREQUENCY COUNTER ADD-ON
JUL 2014
04105141a/b $15.00
VALVE SOUND SIMULATOR PCB
AUG 2014
01106141
$15.00
VALVE SOUND SIMULATOR FRONT PANEL (BLUE)
AUG 2014
01106142
$10.00
TEMPMASTER MK3
AUG 2014
21108141
$15.00
44-PIN MICROMITE
AUG 2014
24108141
$5.00
OPTO-THEREMIN MAIN BOARD
SEP 2014
23108141
$15.00
OPTO-THEREMIN PROXIMITY SENSOR BOARD
SEP 2014
23108142
$5.00
ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL PROBE BOARDS
SEP 2014
04107141/2 $10/SET
MINI-D AMPLIFIER
SEP 2014
01110141
$5.00
COURTESY LIGHT DELAY
OCT 2014
05109141
$7.50
DIRECT INJECTION (D-I) BOX
OCT 2014
23109141
$5.00
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT
OCT 2014
01110131
$15.00
DUAL PHANTOM POWER SUPPLY
NOV 2014
18112141
$10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER
NOV 2014
19112141
$10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER PANEL/LID (BLUE)
NOV 2014
19112142
$15.00
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER
NOV 2014
01109141
$5.00
TDR DONGLE
DEC 2014
04112141
$5.00
MULTISPARK CDI FOR PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
DEC 2014
05112141
$10.00
CURRAWONG STEREO VALVE AMPLIFIER MAIN BOARD
DEC 2014
01111141
$50.00
CURRAWONG REMOTE CONTROL BOARD
DEC 2014
01111144
$5.00
CURRAWONG FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2014
01111142/3 $30/set
CURRAWONG CLEAR ACRYLIC COVER
JAN 2015
- $25.00
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE
JAN 2015
04108141
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER MAIN BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101151
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY ZENER BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101152
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER CALIBRATOR BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101153
$5.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
04103151
$10.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
04103152
$10.00
LOW-FREQUENCY DISTORTION ANALYSER
APR 2015
04104151
$5.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
04203151/2
$15.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
04203153
$15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR MAIN PCB
MAY 2015
04105151
$15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
MAY 2015 04105152/3
$20.00
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
18105151
$5.00
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
04106151
$7.50
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
04106152
$2.50
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
04106153
$5.00
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
04104151
$5.00
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
01109121/2 $7. 50
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
15105151 $10.00
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
15105152
$5.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
18107151
$2.50
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
04108151
$2.50
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
16101141
$7.50
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
01107151 $15.00
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
1510815 $15.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
18107152
$2.50
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
01205141 $20.00
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
01109111 $15.00
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
07108151
$7.50
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
03109151/2 $15.00
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
01110151 $10.00
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
19110151 $15.00
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
19111151 $15.00
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
04101161
$5.00
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC DEC 2015
04101162 $10.00
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
01101161 $15.00
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
01101162 $20.00
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
05102161 $15.00
NEW THIS MONTH
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER
FEB 2016
16101161 $15.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB 2016
07102121
$7.50
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB 2016
07102122
$7.50
LOOKING FOR TECHNICAL BOOKS? YOU’LL FIND THE COMPLETE LISTING OF ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE IN THE SILICON CHIP ONLINE BOOKSTORE – ON THE “BOOKS & DVDs” PAGES AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Stereo Valve Preamplifier Simulated Frequency Response
Improving the bass of
the valve preamplifier
0dB
-3dB
Relative Amplitude (dBr)
Your valve preamplifier in the
January 2016 issue is a great project
and I’m interested in building one
to try the “valve sound” for myself.
I’ve tried many op amp and discrete
semiconductor preamp designs over
the years and have tended to prefer the
sound of simpler designs based around
a complementary-feedback pair of
bipolar transistors or discrete op amp
types over the ultra-low THD op amp
versions, so I expect to like the valves.
There is a key specification missing
in the article though: the preamplifier’s
output impedance. Is it low enough to
drive a solid-state power amplifier’s
input?
Certainly, the output coupling capacitor is far too small. With a power
amplifier input impedance, of say,
10kΩ, the -3dB point is about 72Hz
with the 0.22µF value used. How many
builders are going to try it in their system and conclude that valves are no
good for bass? Surely at least 1µF and
preferably 2µF would be more like it?
While I admire your clever design
of efficient power supplies, I’m not
keen on the use of a switching supply
+3dB
2 x 470nF
(-3dB <at>
17Hz)
-6dB
-9dB
220nF
(-3dB <at>
72Hz)
470nF
((-3dB
-3dB <at>
34Hz)
-12dB
-15dB
-18dB
-21dB
-24dB
-27dB
-30dB
1Hz
10Hz
100Hz
1kHz
Signal Frequency (Hz)
Fig.1: this graph shows the expected frequency response of the Stereo Valve
Preamplifier with different output coupling capacitors.
so close to the signal stages; especially
one running only just above the audio band at 100kHz. There are small
isolation transformers available with
230VAC output that could provide a
simpler linear solution for the HT, eg,
Hammond 185d230, available from
E14 or Mouser for about $27.
Using USB TV Dongle To Measure Signal Strength
We have moved into a rental property while our new house is being
built but the TV signal quality here is
not good. That had me thinking. Why
not use a USB TV dongle to measure
signal strength and signal quality?
Signal quality (BER, MER) is important, maybe more so than just signal strength for digital TV. I thought
that nowadays with the internet and
the TV dongle, I would be surprised
if someone has not written some
software for the TV dongle, to allow
it to be used for aiming and testing
a TV antenna. Maybe a SILICON CHIP
article on using such a dongle would
be a good idea?
90 Silicon Chip
There may be other software than
just the following:
(1) www.hauppauge.co.uk/forum/
showthread.php?22274-Standalone-DVB-T-Signal-StrengthQuality-Utility&p=103508
(2) www.dvbtmeter.com/2010/02/
digimax-dvb-t-meter-scanner-pro.
html?m=1
You have had a few antenna articles. A follow-up antenna setting-up
article would be good. (R. W., via
email).
• The software supplied with most
USB TV dongles already has an inbuilt display of signal strength when
you select a station. Or if not, it will
display signal strength and quality
when you do the initial scan for stations. You can see more detail on this
in the article on USB TV dongles in
the April 2013 issue.
You can see a free 2-page preview
of this article at: www.siliconchip.
com.au/Issue/2013/April/How+To
+Get+Digital+TV+On+Your+Lap
top+Or+PC
However, since you have raised
the topic, it seems as though we
should revisit USB TV dongles to
assess how they handle HD MPEG-4
transmissions from the Nine & Seven
networks. We will do this sometime
during 2016.
siliconchip.com.au
LED Replacements For 12V 100W Halogen Lamps
I have just replaced some of the
100W halogen bulbs in my pool
lights, a less than bi-annual maintenance task. Not for the first time
have I wondered that it would be
great to replace these halogen lamps
with LED arrays that give a similar
light output.
I could be wrong but there must be
many other pool owners who have
similar light fittings running off 12V
isolation transformers with small
format halogens that will always
eventually burn themselves to death.
Replacing these halogen lamp
fittings completely with newer LED
fittings is not that easy as the wiring
and brackets to hold the lamps are all
underwater. Spending a little money
to replace the halogens with LEDs
inside the same fittings, knowing
that they will last a long time, would
certainly motivate me.
My lamp fittings easily have
100mm diameter of clear space that
would fit a PCB populated with
several LED devices, I expect many
others are similar. If it is all sounding
too easy and you are yawning into
I also have to say your PCB looks
like a lot of it was done by an autorouter. Hence I’m thinking to build a
hard-wired version on tag strip with
my own simpler power supplies and
internal power transformers – the design is simple enough for this to work
well I think.
Another thing: the low dropout
regulator on the heater supply is quite
expensive and hard to get. Would not a
7812 work just as well, providing the
input voltage is always above 15V DC?
Keep up the great work and thanks
as always for a fantastic magazine. (I.
B., via email).
• That’s a very good point about the
size of the output coupling capacitors
and it’s a bit of an oversight on our part.
However, it is easily fixed, as you can
substitute two 470nF/630V capacitors
for the 220nF capacitors in each channel. You can install one above and one
below the PCB.
We ran a circuit simulation to check
the likely performance with one or two
470nF output coupling capacitors feeding a load of 10kΩ and as you can see in
the diagram of Fig.1, a 470nF capacitor
siliconchip.com.au
(EXISTING
12V
ISOLATING
TRANSFORMER)
D1 6A4/P600G
A
K
+
2500 µF
230V
25V
12V
K
D2
6A4/P600G
A
2500 µF
32V DC
FOR LED
FLOODLAMP
Fig.2: this voltage
doubler circuit
can be used to
power a 32V LED
floodlamp.
25V
–
6A4/P600G
A
K
your coffee, maybe a multi-colour
LED system toggled by activating the
on/off switch multiple times (eg, first
toggle-natural, second-blue, thirdgreen etc)? (P. M., via email).
• You can buy LED replacement
pool lighting but as you have probably found, it is very expensive. As
an alternative, it should be possible to adapt typical 20W or higher
rated LED chips to your floodlights.
These normally run from a mainsdriven constant current driver (see
www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-BeadsChip-Driver-85V-265V-WaterproofConstant-Current-10W-20W-30Wresults in a -3dB point of 34Hz while
two 470nF capacitors result in a -3dB
point of 17Hz (as you suggested).
The output impedance of the preamplifier is lower than you might expect,
at less than 200Ω. That is a beneficial side effect of the relatively high
negative feedback in the circuit and
it means that long output cables from
the preamplifier will cause negligible
high frequency loss. It certainly is more
than low enough to drive the input of
any amplifier that you are likely to
consider.
As far as the power supply is concerned, do not worry about the fact
that it is a switching design. The key
figure to watch is the signal-to-noise
ratio: -105dB is exceptional for a valve
preamplifier and pretty good for all but
the best solid-state preamps. We would
suggest that you build the preamp as
described initially. If you don’t like
the result, you can always substitute
an analog supply later.
The PCB layout was most definitely
not done by an auto-router. It was a
human router (one Nicholas Vinen,
in fact) and the decisions about how
50W-100W-/321685019430?) but we
would not recommend these for use
in a pool application because there is
no guarantee that they have adequate
insulation.
They drive the LED array at about
32V DC so we would suggest that you
adapt your existing 12V isolation
transformer(s) to the task with the
aid of a half-wave voltage doubler
power supply consisting of two high
current diodes and two 2500µF 25V
electrolytic capacitors. This should
be adequate to drive a 20W LED chip.
The suggested circuit arrangement
is shown above as Fig.2.
to run signal lines and general layout
were quite painstaking, all with high
performance in mind. There is simply
no way in which you would get the
same performance from a hand-wired
layout using tagstrip or tag-board. Consider: this is 2016, not 1956!
As far as the regulator is concerned, a
7812 would give the same performance
as the LM2940, provided the input
supply was above 15V DC. However,
we wanted to make the preamp compatible, as far as possible, with 12V
plugpack supplies and that would not
have been workable with the 7812.
In any case, compared with the likely
cost of the valves, the bigger capacitors,
PCB and case, the cost the specified
regulator is not really significant.
By the way, Altronics will have this
preamp available as a kit.
Fingerprint
security question
I would like to ask a couple of questions about the Fingerprint Security
project in the November 2015 issue.
I have built the main and switch
February 2016 91
Balanced Cables Should Solve RF Breakthough Problem
I recently gave a talk to ARNSW
concerning the early days of military
communications. Unfortunately,
the local conditions at Dural had a
severe impact on the presentation.
Specifically, the hum loop between my laptop and the selfcontained amplifier speaker created
acoustic interference that was intolerable and we had to rely on the
tiny speaker in the computer. This
was very frustrating as I have not
had this problem with a number of
previous presentations in other less
RF-prone locations.
The configuration in use was
with the audio output port from the
laptop connected via a short patch
cable to the amplifier input and
both power cables connected to a
common patch board linked to the
local power supply. Evidently, the
high level of RF at this site assisted
the establishment of a very strong
“hum loop”, with serious results.
PCBs while waiting for the FPS module to arrive. During the building I
noticed that there seems to be a discrepancy in one of the resistor values
between the circuit diagram and the
value silk-screened on the PCB. The
resistor in question feeds pin 4 of the
PIC16F88 from the +5V rail and is
shown as 1kΩ on the circuit diagram
but is shown as 10kΩ on the silkscreened overlay.
I have assumed that the correct
value is 1kΩ as shown in the circuit.
However, when I tested the unit, minus
the FPS module, I get no reading/text
on the LCD screen, only black squares
when the contrast pot is turned up full.
Will I need to have the FPS module
connected for this to show something
on the screen? I programmed the
PIC16F88 using the PICkit 2 and it
programmed successfully and also
verified correctly. I have exactly 5V
between pins 5 and 14 on the PIC.
The PCB I have is revision B. (P. C.,
via email).
• You can use either a 1kΩ or 10kΩ
resistor; it does not matter which.
For the screen, check that you have
soldered all the pins on the LCD and
that these connect to the PCB. Make
sure there are no solder bridges between connections.
92 Silicon Chip
I could probably solve this
problem by using a self-contained
battery-powered audio amplifier
but the small speaker size and low
power output renders that solution
unattractive.
I also assume the problem could
be solved by effectively disconnecting the computer’s audio output
from the input to the amplifier with
the introduction of an optocoupler
device and I wonder if SILICON CHIP
has ever done such a project. A simple mono input and mono output
with the optocoupler connection
between and battery-powered would
solve this problem, I assume.
If you have ever done such a
project, I would be very grateful
if you could advise me as I would
not want to be caught out this way
again. It was highly embarrassing
and frustrating but fortunately the
audience was remarkably tolerant
notwithstanding. (P. J., via email).
Long-range
DAB+ reception
I am thinking about building the
long-range DAB antenna as described
in the November 2015 issue. The
problem is that I live in the Lithgow
area at 930 metres above sea level. It’s
possible to receive a DAB+ signal in
the Upper Blue Mountains; even one of
the surrounding hills a 10-minute drive
away picks up DAB+ with a small whip
antenna but that’s at 1100 metres above
sea level (Hassans Walls lookout).
However, perhaps I am expecting
too much if I built and installed your
antenna to pull the signal into a valley. Would there be any hope at all? I
receive ABC jazz and SBS chill on TV.
It will be interesting to read in future
issues about readers pulling in DAB
from long distances. (P. Y., via email).
• If you already have TV reception
from Sydney (and not from a local
translator) then there is every chance
that you could also get DAB+ via the
antenna we described.
Different transformers
for amplifier module
I am enquiring about the supply voltage rails required to run the Ultra-LD
•
We have not done such a project
as it would require an ADC with
Toslink optical output and a matching DAC. There are suitable Jaycar
products to do this (Cat AC-1631 and
AC-1596) but the all-up cost of such
a link is about $130.
However, we would suggest that
you try a balanced line connection
between your laptop and amplifier.
To make a balanced line connection between the audio output of
your laptop and the input of your
amplifier you will need a balanced
line transformer at either end of the
connection.
You can see how to do this in the
article on a Passive DI Box in the October 2014 issue. Each DI Box uses a
Mu-metal shielded transformer from
Altronics (Cat M-0705).
You can see a 2-page preview of
the article at www.siliconchip.com.
au/Issue/2014/October/Passive+
Direct+Injection+%28DI%29+Box
Mk.3 Amplifier modules (SILICON CHIP,
March, April & May 2012) as I wish to
build a power amplifier to accompany
my Studio Series preamplifier (SILICON
CHIP, October & November 2005). They
are listed on the Altronics website as
a complete amplifier kit and as individual modules – they call for a 40V
split rail supply courtesy of a 300VA
40V toroidal transformer (one per
module) which they no longer stock.
With that in mind they sell a 35V,
45V and 50V models. Will the power
supply PCB and more importantly the
amplifier modules tolerate a higher/
lower supply voltage without damage?
(S. D., via email).
• No damage will result from using
the lower-rated transformer and no
circuit changes are required. You can
also run the amplifier modules with the
higher-rated 45V + 45V CT transformer,
provided you are not driving 4-ohm
loads. That would run the output transistors too close to second breakdown,
which can be inferred from the loadline diagrams on page 32 of the October
2015 issue. A 50V + 50V transformer
will provide too high a voltage.
With a 45V + 45V transformer, you
will also be running the electrolytic
capacitors in the power supply at very
close to their voltage ratings, dependsiliconchip.com.au
ing on the mains voltage fluctuations
in your area.
By the way, Altronics have indicated
that they will be supplying kits for
the Mk.4 version of this amplifier, so
perhaps they are not discontinuing the
specified power transformer.
We can supply back issues or copies
of any article that we have published
in the past. Just go to our on-line shop.
GMT/UTC time
on LED Clock
Calibration Problem With The High Voltage Probe
I’m trying to calibrate the High
Voltage Probe for scopes from the
January 2015 issue. It appears that I
have a problem with either the offset
adjustment or IC2a’s output since I
have a constant -4.02V at CON3. By
adjusting the offset, it does vary a
little but I am unable to adjust to 0V
as per the instructions in the calibrations procedure.
It is possible to measure and adjust
the offset so that the voltage between
CON3 GND and either V2+ or V2- is
exactly half of the battery2 voltage.
So that does appear to work. The
Gain Calibrate has little or no effect
when moving the pot from one ex-
Greetings from the other side of the
globe – I hope the weather there is
better than here!
Seriously, I’m going to build the GPS
High-Visibility LED Clock described by
Nicholas Vinen in the December 2015
& January 2016 issues, for use in an
amateur radio station “shack”. My main
requirement is that I be able to run the
clock in GMT/UTC time permanently,
ie, no change to Daylight Saving etc.
Can this be achieved with this design? I hope so. However, if not it will
still be a decent clock on the wall. (R.
P., via email).
• Yes you can certainly run the GPS
clock in GMT/UTC time. It’s simply a
matter of setting the time zone manually to “EU IS”. This is the time zone
for Iceland which is the same as GMT/
UTC, with no daylight savings in effect.
CHIP has a power supply for the UltraLD amplifier and I was wondering if
it would do the job with the specified
45V transformer but only using the top
half and not the 15V-0-15V part. (A. P.,
via email).
• Your 90V motor probably does
not need filtered DC. In that case, the
simplest approach would be to take the
90V AC from the transformer, feed it
to a full-wave bridge rectifier and feed
the rectified but unfiltered DC direct
to the motor.
90V 150W
supply wanted
Understanding how a
loudspeaker works
Have you designed a circuit for a 90V
150W power supply? About 18 months
ago I bought a new metal milling machine. It has a power drive on the table
but it got a very large surge (about 50V)
when the power station started another
generator for the Blackwood Cole mine
to move a drag-line scoop.
We are close to the power station
and we get the full blast of power when
they first turn the extra generator on,
ie, before the mine switches the dragline on. So the 90V DC motor in my
milling machine does not work any
more. As a result, I now have a safety
regulator in the 230VAC line to save
my machinery from the same thing
happening again.
The power station will not pay for
any repairs and say that I should have
had the protection in place before it
happened. Now I am looking for a
power supply to run the table on my
mill. The October 2015 issue of SILICON
For most of my adult life I have
thought that I thoroughly understood
how a moving coil speaker worked,
and that was that the cone was moved
back and forth solely by the magnetic
force induced in the voice coil by
the current driven though it by the
amplifier’s output voltage. The chain
of events would therefore be that the
amplifier voltage fluctuates up and
down following the signal waveform,
which in turn produces a fluctuating
current in the voice coil, which in turn
produces a fluctuating magnetic force
in the voice coil, which then pushes
and pulls the voice coil back and forth.
However, after some reflection on the
details, it seems that I was wrong and
that the motion of the cone is produced
not by one force (ie, the magnetic force
of the voice coil) but by two forces:
(1) the magnetic force from the voice
coil and (2) the spring force of the
speaker suspension. The two form a
siliconchip.com.au
treme to the other. Could you please
supply some pointers as to what is
going wrong and how to correct this
error? (P. V., via email).
• It’s hard to say exactly what is
causing your problem but from
your description of the symptoms, it
sounds as if the output photodiode
of OPTO1 is effectively open-circuited. This may not be due to a faulty
HCNR201 but perhaps an accidental
‘dry joint’ in the connection to either
pin 5 or pin 6.
We would therefore suggest that
you check these solder joints before
taking the more drastic and costly
step of replacing the HCNR201.
kind of push-pull tug of war and it is
this combination of two forces working in opposition to each other which
controls the movement of the cone.
I realised this one day when I was
reflecting on how a speaker would
respond to the signal voltage from an
amplifier putting out a simple sinewave. I straight away encountered two
major problems. First, during the first
quarter of the cycle, when the output
voltage reaches it maximum value at
the peak of the wave, the voice coil is
supposed to have reached its maximum excursion and stopped moving.
But why would the voice coil stop
moving when the driving voltage is
present and at its maximum value?
Then, during the second quarter of
the cycle, the voice coil is required
to reverse direction and begin moving back towards its rest position, yet
although the output voltage from the
amplifier is declining in value towards
the zero level, it has the same polarity
as it did during the first quarter of the
wave and so should still be pushing
the voice coil, not pulling it.
During the third quarter of the wave,
the output voltage will have reversed
polarity and so will be pulling at the
cone but not now. Why is the voice
coil moving back when the output
voltage is surely pushing it in the other
direction?
The obvious answer to these questions is that it is the speaker suspension,
in the form of the spider and the outer
surround, that moves the voice coil, using potential energy stored in it during
the outward quarter of the wave, and
February 2016 93
Notes & Errata
High Visibility 6-Digit LED GPS
Clock, December 2015 & January
2016: the parts list in the December
issue should read:
9 BC547 (Q1-Q9)
10 BC337 (Q10-Q19)
These type numbers were transposed in the original parts list but
were correct in Fig.1 & Fig.2. Note
also that Fig.1 should show R8 as
68Ω and the label on Fig.2 should
read Q20-Q26 for the MPSA13 transistors (not Q20-Q16).
The following additional notes
also apply:
(1) To calibrate the 32kHz crystal, set
the XTAL menu option to between
-512 (260ppm slower than default)
and +511 (260ppm faster). This is
adjusted automatically when a GPS
module with a 1pps output is used.
(2) When the alarm goes off, use a
long (1s+) press of either pushbutton, or a second press of the Escape
button on the remote to cancel it
not the magnetic force alone as I had
formerly believed. So the magnetic force
of the voice coil is only responsible
for moving the cone outward from the
rest position, and it is the suspension
“spring” which is responsible for moving it back to the rest position.
It all seems rather obvious to me
now but it seems odd that this is never
explained in detail in most documentation I have read. The speaker’s spider
is usually referred to as providing a
centring action, which I assumed just
meant bringing the cone to a central
position when the speaker is not being
used. I never realised how important
a function this spring performed until
now.
If my new understanding of how the
dynamic drive works is correct, and I
believe it is, it shows that the linearity
of the drive suspension is critical in
terms of the distortion performance
of the driver. No matter how linear
the driving amplifier is, it is only responsible for half of the driving force
applied to the cone – the suspension
is responsible for the other half.
I wonder, is it me being exceptionally dumb and missing the obvious, or
are other people unaware of the exact
details of how a moving coil driver
94 Silicon Chip
altogether. A short/single press will
simply activate the snooze function.
(3) Maximum alarm duration has
been extended to up to 15 minutes
with a default of 10 seconds.
(4) The unit can show the day of the
week. Simply activate the date display function, then press the same
button again.
(5) A new menu item, “GPSLCK”,
has been added to the options menu.
If set to “IGNORE”, the unit will use
GPS time even if the satellite fix is
not perfect. This will allow the unit
to work in marginal signal areas
although time accuracy may not be
quite as good.
(6) A new brightness menu item,
“CUR RD”, shows the minimum/
current/maximum raw LDR readings in 8-bit hexadecimal notation.
The fourth digit decimal point lights
when the data is going to be saved to
flash memory and goes out once it’s
saved. This can be used to troubleshoot the autodim function.
works? Or have I got it all completely
wrong? (P. T., Casula, NSW).
• It is true that the suspension system
does damp the cone motion and does
provide some restoring force, so that
the cone returns to its “centre” position
in the absence of any voltage across
the voice coil.
However, the suspension is designed
to be as linear as possible so that the
damping and “restoring force” is equal
for forward and backward excursions
of the cone. It is not a “push-pull tug
of war” as you postulate.
In an ideal system, we could ignore
the effect of the suspension on the basis
that it is only there to “suspend” the
voice coil over the magnet pole piece.
In fact, what happens is that the
driving amplifier is a very low impedance voltage source (or it should be)
which has very tight control over the
speaker excursion at any time. So if
you apply a sinewave signal, there is
no tendency for the coil to over-travel
and its motion is a very good analogue
of the input signal.
Consider what would happen if
there was a tendency for the voice coil
to over-shoot (and there always is, in
fact). This additional motion would induce an equivalent voltage in the voice
coil and this extraneous signal would
immediately be damped (think of it as
being short-circuited) by the very low
impedance of the driving amplifier.
That is why it is most important, in
a hifi system, to have very low resistance loudspeaker connecting leads.
Otherwise the “damping factor” of the
amplifier is reduced.
The “electronic damping” works in
all modes, forcing the cone to follow
the signal voltage. If the cone tends to
lead or lag the signal, there will be an
error voltage which will be heavily
damped by the amplifier’s very low
impedance. The current that will flow
in the voice coil, due to this damping
of the error voltage, will force the cone
back to the correct position.
Another point to be considered
is that the current in the voice coil
is not necessarily in phase with the
driving voltage; the load present by a
loudspeaker is inherently inductive,
with an impedance which rises with
frequency. Therefore you cannot simply think that the current flowing in
the voice coil following the peak of a
sinewave is simply “declining in value
towards the zero level” and that it “has
the same polarity as it did during the
first quarter of the wave and so should
still be pushing the voice coil, not pulling it”. In fact, the current will always
lag the voltage in a purely inductive
load and that complicates the picture.
Finally, consider that the air trapped
in the speaker box also tends to modify
the motion of the cone, damping it
more for reverse excursions than for
forward motion. Again, this is where
the amplifier is supposed to maintain
tight control over the motion of the
cone and stop it responding to these
external non-linearities.
Ultimately, hifi amplifiers and loudspeakers do a remarkable job of turning electrical signals into analogous
acoustic waveforms.
Currawong valve
amplifier current
I have completed building the Currawong valve amplifier and have tested
the unit for frequency response and
also played some music from my iPod.
The sound is very good.
However, after installing the plexiglass cover I noticed that the 330Ω 5W
resistors which I had soldered leaving
the 5mm gap suggested were flush
against the PCB. The problem is that
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custom design work. No job too small.
Announcing Pioneer Hill Software
SpectraPLUS 24bit DAQ ADC
spectrogram, t.h.d. and i.m.d. analysis, f.f.t,
acoustic tools, 3D surface plot, sig. gen. etc.
Fully shielded SpecctraDAQ200 ADC/DAC
24bit/192kHz dual channel, Wolfson. AKM
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As 2ch. 24bit recorder t.h.d. = 0.002%max
see : www.spectraplus.com
Order direct, USA contact : John Pattee
(pioneer<at>spectraplus.com)
Local agent : DSCAPE Melbourne
s/w , h/w package ca. USD $1500
Aus. Distributor : Julian Driscoll CEO
jcdrisc<at>tpg.com.au for support
Based in Christchurch, NZ but service
available Australia/NZ wide. Phone
NZ (+64 3) 366 6588 or email dave<at>
davethompson.co.nz
WANTED
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Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books,
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Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 94
they are running very hot and the heat
melts the solder.
The HT voltage that feeds the valve
plate was 282V and the cathode voltage was 47V. I double-checked all the
components around the circuit and
they are correct. Would you be able to
advise me what the problem might be?
(M. M., via email).
• 47V sounds like a very high cathode
voltage; it’s designed to run at about
siliconchip.com.au
22V – see the circuit diagram on page
31 of the November 2014 issue.
Assuming that they are 330Ω as
specified, those resistors would be dissipating around 7W so it’s not surprising that they’re overheating.
Could it be that the two small wire
links next to LK4 and LK5 are missing from the PCB? These connect the
6L6s’ grid bias to GND. If the grid bias
is floating, that could explain the high
plate current. The only other explanation we can think is that you’ve used
slightly different valves which have a
different grid bias requirement.
If you’re still not sure what’s going
on, check the voltage on pin 5 of the
6L6 sockets (ie, the grid) which connects to one end of the 10kΩ bias resistor between the 6L6s and the 12AX7s.
This should have a DC potential of 0V
relative to a convenient ground point
(eg, valve socket mounting screws).
If everything seems correct, you
could increase the 330Ω 5W resistors
to say 680Ω 5W to reduce the operating
current to a safe level however they
will still be dissipating more than the
circuit was designed for due to the
SC
higher cathode voltage.
February 2016 95
Next Issue
The March 2016 issue of SILICON
CHIP is due on sale in newsagents
by Monday 29th February. Expect
postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between February
29th and March 5th.
Serviceman’s Log
. . . continued from page 43
going around in circles for an hour, I
decided to replace all the electrolytic
capacitors since these devices are notoriously unreliable once they have
aged. There weren’t many so it was a
cost-effective way to hopefully make
some progress.
Replacing these capacitors actually
seemed to make a bit of a difference, so
I packed up and returned to the glasshouse. However, I wasn’t convinced
that I’d found the fault, so I took the
precaution of taking the signal tracer,
an oscilloscope and a floodlight along
with me, just in case.
After reconnecting the module and
turning on the power, I was dismayed
to discover that nothing had changed!
I listened in with my signal tracer
and again there was lots of noise but
it was now quite loud – much louder
than at my workshop. It seemed to be
everywhere, even on the supply rails,
and then I had a light-bulb moment!
The nearer I got to the battery with
the signal tracer, the louder the noise
became. I put the tracer aside, grabbed
my digital voltmeter and checked the
battery voltage once again. This time
though, I held the meter there long
enough to see that the battery voltage,
now sitting at 46V, was fluctuating
minutely. I then went from cell to cell
with the voltmeter and each one read
a nominal 2V until I got to about cell
number 20 (yes, I had started at the
wrong end). This cell had a reverse
voltage on it and it was fluctuating
wildly.
In fact, it was producing enough
noise to break through the filtered supply rails and regulators of the control
module and create havoc. Since the
cell was effectively dead, I bypassed
it with a jumper cable and everything
sprang to life. The solenoids worked
as they should and the rear wheels
accelerated smoothly.
When I looked inside the faulty cell,
I could see that the plates were quite
distorted and almost corroded away.
I made up a more permanent link to
bypass the dead cell and advised the
“Duck’s” driver that doing so would
put more load on the other cells and
that they would probably have to have
the lot replaced one day soon.
My guess is that it would cost at
least $2000 for a new bank of batteries so I was happy that I had at least
given them time to consider whether
to spend that money on a new heart
or to retire “The Duck” when it eventually broke down again. I also told
the maintenance man not to leave the
charger on for extended periods and to
carefully monitor the state of charge.
And the clue I had missed right at
the beginning? Having unplugged the
charger when I first looked at “The
Duck”, the freshly-charged battery
should have measured at least 50V
and probably as much as 56V; certainly
not 48V. The dead cell was not only
not contributing its normal 2V but
because it was negatively charged, it
was subtracting that amount from the
overall voltage.
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................. 66-69
Core Electronics........................... 57
Digi-Key Electronics....................... 3
DSCAPE...................................... 95
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
High Profile Communications....... 95
Icom Australia................................ 5
Jaycar .............................. IFC,45-52
Keith Rippon ................................ 95
LD Electronics.............................. 95
LEDsales...................................... 95
Master Instruments...................... 13
Microchip Technology................. IBC
Ocean Controls............................ 11
Rohde & Schwarz.......................... 9
Sesame Electronics..................... 95
Silicon Chip Binders..................... 37
Silicon Chip Online Shop........ 88-89
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 53
Silicon Chip Wallchart.................. 87
Silvertone Electronics.................. 65
Tendzone........................................ 7
Tronixlabs.................................. 8,95
There is a well known adage in the
industry that I had failed to apply –
always thoroughly check the power
supply before anything else! A bad
power supply can be the root of so
SC
many problems.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or
high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you
are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
96 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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