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Contents
Vol.29, No.6; June 2016
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
18 Small Nuclear Reactors: Reliable Power At Low Risk
The trend is away from coal-fired power stations but Australia still needs reliable
base-load power. Nuclear power stations are one alternative and they could be
based on small, modular nuclear reactors – by Dr David Maddison
28 Bringing An HP ProBook Laptop Back From The Dead
It’s hard to chuck out a faulty laptop, especially one with a 1.8GHz AMD quad
core processor, 4GB of RAM, a 578GB HDD and 1GB of dedicated video
memory. The solution: bring it back from the dead – by Greg Swain
Bringing An HP Laptop
Bringing
Laptop Back
From The Dead – Page 28.
70 Review: Tecsun PL365 Radio Receiver
Want to listen to the HF bands and sample local radio stations when travelling
overseas? This portable radio receiver with AM, FM, shortwave and SSB will do
the job and won’t take up much room in your luggage – by Andrew Mason
80 Review: Rohde & Schwarz RTH1004 Scope Rider
This 4-channel scope is portable, has a high bandwidth and four high-resolution,
individually-isolated inputs. As a test instrument, it’s hard to think of any other
unit that is more practical or flexible – by Nicholas Vinen
Bling! Stereo Audio
Level/VU Meter – Page 32.
Pro jects To Build
32 Stereo Audio Level/VU Meter: Add Bling To HiFi System
Give your hifi system the wow with this spectacular stereo VU meter. It uses 80
high-brightness SMD LEDs to give any stereo amplifier/mixer a highly colourful
dual-bargraph display – by Nicholas Vinen
42 Arduino-Based Cooling System Monitor
This Arduino-based module can monitor virtually any cooling system (in our
case, in a laser cutter). It checks fan speed, water flow and temperature and
sounds an alarm in the event of a malfunction – by Nicholas Vinen
64 Hotel Safe Alarm For Travellers
How safe is the safe in your hotel room or cruise-ship cabin? This compact unit
sounds an alarm if the safe is opened in your absence, so that an intruder thinks
he is being monitored and will flee before pinching anything – by John Clarke
72 Budget Senator 2-Way Loudspeaker System, Pt.2
This version of the Senator is for the budget conscious. Pt.2 this month
describes the crossover PCB and completes the assembly – by Leo Simpson
Special Columns
Arduino-Based Cooling System
Monitor For a Laser Cutter – Page 42.
57 Serviceman’s Log
Putting the wind up an anemometer – by Dave Thompson
84 Circuit Notebook
(1) Wireless Rain Alarm; (2) Improved Amplitude Modulator For FM-To-AM
Converter; (3) 12.5MHz Touch-Screen Function Generator; (4) Combined
Timer, Counter & Frequency Meter
88 Vintage Radio
AWA 461 MA clock radio & Heathkit RF signal generator – by Terry Gray
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter 96
4
Mailbag
103
siliconchip.com.au
78 SC Online Shop
104
95 Product Showcase
104
Ask Silicon Chip
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes & Errata
Hotel Safe Alarm For
Travellers – Page 64.
June 2016 1
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc. (Hons.)
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Nicholas Vinen
Photography
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Kevin Poulter
Dave Thompson
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Small nuclear power stations
are ideal for Australia
This month we have a feature article by Dr David
Maddison on the topic of small nuclear reactors and
when you read it, I am sure that you will agree that
small nuclear power stations would be ideal for many
locations within Australia. I know that some people
may be outraged that anyone would suggest that nuclear
power should be used in Australia but it really should
be given serious consideration because the other options for base-load power stations are becoming increasingly less attractive to
the people who ultimately make the decisions – our politicians.
And while the increasing emphasis on renewables does mean that there is
presently a glut of power, at other times when the wind is not blowing, the Sun
is not shining and there is a drought stopping hydro generation (eg, in Tasmania), base-load and back-up gas fired stations need to make up the difference.
So we still need base-load power stations and presently it all comes from
coal. That presents two big problems. First, most of Australia’s coal-fired power stations are very old and cannot keep going indefinitely. They have to be
replaced with new coal-fired stations or (choke, splutter) nuclear power stations. Second, coal mining is politically and arguably, environmentally undesirable. This is despite the fact that Australia exports huge quantities of coal
to the rest of the world.
A third factor to consider is that Australia’s eastern seaboard grid is possibly the largest and most dispersed in the world and that means that large
areas are vulnerable to major interruption in supply due to electrical faults,
major weather events or even terrorism. It would be much more secure if the
power generation was not so centralised in a few locations in Queensland,
New South Wales and Victoria.
And as the current failure of the Basslink shows, Tasmania is particularly
vulnerable, especially when it is also experiencing a major drought. How much
more secure would Tasmania’s electricity supply be if there were a couple of
nuclear stations there? There could be one near Hobart and one near Launceston.
And before anyone shrieks about the cost, consider the current pickle that
Tasmania is in. Basslink is dead and who knows when it will finally be fixed?
If it is actually fixed by June, it will have been out of operation for six months.
They have very little water left in the dams and perhaps not even enough for
human consumption, if the drought does not break soon. And finally, they
have had to import dozens of large diesel generators to make up the shortfall.
The greenies must find that excruciating – or do they just light another candle?
My guess is that the present Basslink cable will have to replaced in its entirety. In truth, Basslink should not merely be replaced but duplicated, so that
if one fails, the other keeps going. Do that twice and the alternative option of
a couple of small nuclear power stations could be economically attractive.
Nor does Australia need to go through the ridiculously labyrinthine approval
process that is required to build any power station in this country. These small
nuclear power reactors can be virtually bought as “turn-key” plants. Order it
this week and it could delivered and running within a relatively short time!
And consider that some of these plants could also provide desalinated water at a cost very competitive with the present “white-elephant” desalination
plants in some states.
Australian governments like to boast about their infrastructure projects.
Well, our extended grid has many problems. Small nuclear power stations
could be the ideal solution.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has
the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask SILICON CHIP”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Soldering SMD
parts is difficult
I continue to enjoy constructing
many of your projects and while I
readily embrace technological change,
I wish to comment on the change to
surface mount devices. One of the reasons I enjoy electronics as a hobby/
profession is the ability to create useful devices that I can troubleshoot and
repair if something goes wrong rather
than throwing the device in the bin.
I see this all too often in consumer
goods. I diagnosed a fault in a not-socheap DVD player recently and after
sourcing the surface-mount chip via
eBay, I attempted to desolder the faulty
chip. The chip was glued to the board
and even with careful heat application, the fine tracks ended up lifting
off the board, with the result of having
to write the appliance off.
I see this trend with your projects
and I have built quite a few of them
with surface-mount devices. I do not
find it as enjoyable due to their small
size and the components are easily
lost. I built your Guitar Effects unit
that had a CODEC and SMD PIC and
found it frustrating and the whole project wasn’t cheap by the time I sourced
all the parts. Hopefully it will give me
RIAA valve
preamplifier wanted
I loved the Currawong Stereo Valve
Amplifier and now I see the lovely
stereo preamp (SILICON CHIP, February & March 2016). Now we just need
an RIAA preamp to complete the set!
You have previously stated that
the performance of a valve RIAA
preamplifier would not be up to
scratch (Ask SILICON CHIP, March
2016, page 91). While I don’t disagree, I’m wondering about the criterion on which you are basing that
determination. Vinyl reproduction
is fundamentally lower quality than
digital audio (assuming a decent
compression algorithm, sampling
4 Silicon Chip
a long service life because if the PIC or
the CODEC IC fails, again it will probably end up in the bin (what a waste).
I looked at your charge equaliser for
Li-Ion batteries in last month’s issue
and thought “Nope”! I really appreciate Nicholas Vinen’s brilliant designs
but have no desire to build a lot of the
devices. The same comment goes for
the microwave oven leakage detector.
I tend to prefer John Clarke’s method
of using mostly through-hole components with the occasional SMD device
in his projects.
I know I’m being a dinosaur and realise that surface-mount is here to stay
and this means cheaper and smaller
projects but please don’t just use them
if through-hole parts are available.
Call me old-fashioned but again part
of the satisfaction of the hobby is to
be able to get your multimeter/logic
probe/scope probes onto your project
and troubleshoot/improve and repair. I
also do remote 4WD trips etc and carry
repair gear with me and it is a lot easier
to repair through-hole circuit boards
when you are in remote locations.
Thanks for a great magazine.
Geoff Coppa,
Emerald, Qld.
Comment: sorry you hate SMDs but unrate etc). So for that reason, surely
one would be able to “get away with”
a lower performance design.
I’m sure the vinyl-vs-digital argument is just as fraught as that of
valve-vs-solid state. I mean, a jewel
wobbling in a plastic groove? Of
course it will never be able to compete in terms of distortion. However,
a hell of a lot of people like the older
technology. This has been proved
beyond a doubt with the Currawong.
Yes, I like valve stuff. Yes it will
never outperform your wonderful
Ultra-LD amplifier. Music reproduction is as much about emotion as well
as technical perfection and I’m sure a
lot of readers would accept the per-
fortunately, many projects would not
be feasible if they were based solely or
mainly on through-hole components.
Many key ICs are only available these
days as SMDs or if they available in
through-hole form, they are more expensive. We have also based some of
our PCBs predominantly on SMDs as
they would otherwise be much larger,
perhaps impractically so.
SMD soldering tips
and tricks
I noticed in your latest magazine
some people are having trouble soldering surface-mount components. I
have been using these for some years
now in small production work, down
to 0402 sizes.
My technique is to use a large lump
of Blu-Tak (say about 4-6 strips rolled
into a ball), stuck to the work bench,
flattened with your hand to about a 2030° angle, so you are looking at right
angles to the PCB pressed onto same.
Rotation and replacement of a PCB at
any angle is so quick and easy.
formance of a preamp sporting the
ECC83 or the venerable EF86.
John Roberts,
Wellington, NZ.
Comment: our criteria for rejecting
a valve preamplifier has less to do
with the level of distortion and more
to do with noise. Regardless of how
much people may like valve sound,
they don’t like it accompanied by a
lot of hum, buzz or other noise. A
first class turntable set-up playing
virgin or vinyl records which are not
worn or dirty is capable of first class
sound. Why make it second rate with
a noisy preamplifier? We reckon a
projected 50dB signal-to-noise ratio
or thereabouts, is second rate.
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon-Chip--Future-Products.pdf
1
4/29/16
10:59 AM
C
M
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CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 5
Mailbag: continued
Solar panel tilt
is not critical
There has been a lot of discussion about the effectiveness of tilting solar panels in recent months.
In theory, you get peak output when
the sun hits the solar panel at 90°.
A couple of years ago, I decided
to test this on a real 160W solar
panel using an MPPT inverter. The
peak power from that panel was
about 140W on that day. The above
graph shows percentage power output against solar panel tilt angle at
A good pair of tweezers is essential,
reworked with a file to suit the job; even
better if you can file a very small step
in the end so that when you push down
on the held component, it doesn’t push
up into the tweezer points.
Use a 2mm spade iron tip as this will
carry a small amount of solder to tin the
midday in October in Melbourne,
when the sun angle is 45° from the
North horizon.
The curve is surprisingly flat. As
you can see, the output is above 90%
from 15-70°. With the cost of solar
panels at $1/watt or below, I doubt
if adding tilt frames for solar panels
would be worth the added expense.
It is interesting to note that even
with a horizontal panel, there is only
a 20% drop off in power.
Peter Kay,
Dromana, Vic.
pad. Use some liquid flux (non-corrosive) then, holding the component in
the tweezers, apply to the board and
solder one end. Rotate the board 180°
and solder the other end. I use 0.5mm
or 0.3mm diameter lead-free solder.
Temperature is important (not too
hot) and a good magnifying system is
essential as you get up in years. I use
an eyeglass as I am an ex-watchmaker.
Good magnifiers are available, preferably with LED illumination built in.
For multi-pin ICs, just solder one leg
and position correctly, then with flux
and the iron loaded with solder, just
draw the iron down over all the legs
on the opposite side and the solder
will do all them all in one go. Go back
to the first side and repeat to finish.
This applies to solder-masked
boards. If soldering to a plain copper
(home-made) board, you will probably
have to solder the legs individually
to control the solder flow. Once mastered, it is much quicker than drilling the board, shaping leads and later
cutting of same, and produces a much
neater result.
Bernard Smith,
Tallangatta, Vic.
Digital TV Freeview+
incompatibility
I was very interested to read Alan
Hughes’ article on Digital TV and
MPEG-4 in the April 2016 issue of SILICON CHIP. It was an excellent piece on
what would seem to be a chaotic situation and may be relevant to the issue
I have had for some time with my two
year old Sony Bravia KDL-60W850B
TV and Freeview.
The TV works fine with Freeview
and Freeview+ on all channels with
the exception of Ch9. Most functions
on their page work OK with the exception of “Catch-UP”; a program can be
selected and begins to load and play
the obligatory advert but that’s as far
as it gets.
Although the rotating “loading”
icon is working, the program does
tel: 08 8240 2244
Standard and modified
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6 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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www.silvertone.com.au
Mailbag: continued
not start. Pressing “Return” and trying again gives the
same result.
I contacted Sony and sent them a detailed explanation
including some screen shots. They assured me that there
was no issue with the TV; it was Ch9. I contacted Ch9 to
explain the situation and was told that they were aware
that there was an issue with Sony TVs and Freeview and
when asked if there was a time frame for a fix, the answer
was “no”, followed by: “you can watch it on your iPhone
or iPad”; clearly not my intention when I bought an expensive 60-inch TV!
I contacted Sony again the same day and they responded: “Channel 9 has recently upgraded its video platforms
which causes some issues with Sony units. When broadcasters change or upgrade their formats, we have no way
of upgrading pre-installed platforms on the TV, so this
causes some viewing problems. Sony makes sure that we
release the software or applications needed for these things
to work but if a deviation from the original platform occurs then this causes the issue.
It is good that they have advised you that they are aware
of the issue and we will coordinate with them as well to
find a quicker resolution to this dilemma.”
Although this was a good, informative response from
Sony, I assumed that the wheels would turn very slowly
and eventually the issues would be resolved. However, that
8 Silicon Chip
Simple SMD soldering aid
Following the interest in surface-mount assembly
I thought I’d send in a photo of the simple jig I have
been using for some time. The spring is an old hacksaw blade and the pointer is an 8BA plated brass bolt
that has been filed to a blunt point.
Instead of moving the clamp, I simply move the PCB
around underneath the fixed clamping point. The PCB
illustrated is not under assembly but rather a board
out of an old laser printer.
Graham Lill,
Lindisfarne, Tas.
same evening I took another look at Ch9 and it had been
fixed! I had not received any firmware updates for my TV
so obviously it was resolved by Ch9, perhaps with some
encouragement from Sony. Anyway thanks to all parties,
you have restored my confidence in customer support.
Trevor Moore,
Mount Martha, Vic.
Ultra-HD TV broadcasts
are currently pointless
The article on HD TV in your April 2016 issue stirred
up my thoughts on the current parlous state of Oz TV.
When you consider the issue of Australian TV standards,
with its mix of TV pixel numbers, it is hard to determine
at what distance you should sit from your TV. If you set
yourself up so that you are just too far to see the full HD
pixels then you will find that the majority of channels
(still standard definition) do not “look right”. They will
be blurred or somewhat pixellated.
Yes, the HD channels will generally look good, whilst
you will have some misgivings about some channels (those
broadcasting 1440 horizontal). If you sit further away and
set yourself up for SD TV then you will not be able to take
advantage of the higher clarity of the HD channels.
The size of TV set that you should have in your lounge
room (or wherever) should be determined by the normal
viewing distance from the screen. It is interesting to note
that most people choose a TV with a screen size smaller
that optimum – probably from the conditioning of available screen sizes for the old analog TV sets.
Now if you are satisfied with your current TV size and
viewing distance, then if you are going to watch UHD TV
at its full potential you are going to need a TV that is at
least twice the size of your current TV screen. If you have
a 60-inch screen, you would need to change to a 120inch one! The average viewer would not consider this to
be reasonable. Imagine what an SD TV channel or a DVD
playback would look like on a screen that size!
So the first thing that we would need would be for all
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 9
Mailbag: continued
Enthusiasm for
Keysight multimeters
I read Nicholas Vinen’s review of
the two Keysight meters in the April
2016 issue of SILICON CHIP. Over the
past few years, I have used U1233B,
U1252A, U1272A and U1242B
DMMs (all Agilent’s IIRC) and have
found them to be quite good instruments. In fact, I own one each of the
first three.
When I first acquired the 1233 I
thought the LED “flashlight” was
a gimmick but after peering in the
back of racks a few times, I realised
it wasn’t. I also thought that I probably wouldn’t use the Vsense feature
much but it has turned out to be quite
useful. I have a 1233 on my bench at
work and after my multi-bit ratchet
driver, it is probably the item I’d grab
most often when I get called on to a
job away from my bench.
While Fluke make excellent in-
channels to be showing only full HD.
Until then there is no point in considering UHD TV.
Bruce Withey,
Mylneford, NSW.
Raspberry Pi & Arduino
are not competitors
First, an aside: I rather fancy that
the “article published in July 1979
ETI”, upon which Nicholas Vinen’s
Microwave Leakage Detector article
in the April SC was based, was one of
mine from a long time ago. I felt rather
flattered reading it. About time for an
update I guess.
struments of great quality and performance (I have owned several and
used many over four decades), they
are quite expensive by comparison.
The U1233C stacks up quite well
against the Fluke 179 but costs only
half as much and has extra nice features. If you have the money to buy
a 179 then the 1272 has superior
performance at lower cost.
Of course the Fluke has the advantage that you don’t need a degree in
computer science to set up all the
options or an elephant’s memory to
recall all the functions, how to access
them, what their options are or where
to find them – in a word, simplicity.
I would be happy to use a Keysight
or Fluke meter in any circumstance it
was intended for but if I had to buy a
meter with my own money, I’d buy
a Keysight.
Phil Denniss,
Darlington, NSW.
Regarding the Publisher’s Letter
in the same issue, I am compelled to
comment that the Raspberry Pi and the
Arduino should not be seen as competing with each other. I don’t see either
being ascendant over the other.
The reason for this is deep but significant: Arduino provides no operating system but only a boot-loader,
so the programmer is responsible for
scheduling tasks, accessing hardware
and handling interprocess communication, and is thus open (for example)
to bugs arising from non-atomic access to global variables available in
interrupts, but can handle making
things happen at the moment they
are required.
The Pi, on the other hand, comes
with a full multitasking operating system but this lies between the application and the hardware. Furthermore, it
cannot properly be called a “real-time
system” as it can never guarantee that
a process will meet a given deadline.
These two paradigms are not both
suitable for doing very many things,
so the majority of times that someone
uses one or the other, the alternative
would be quite inappropriate.
The choice between these two is
both necessary, and with some experience in both arenas, straightforward. I have not used a Micromite or
a PICAXE, but I fancy these are in the
Arduino camp but a bit more gritty
in hardware terms – familiar territory
for the hardware-capable reader of
SILICON CHIP.
Jonathan Scott,
Hamilton, NZ.
Possible solution for
96kHz DAC problems
I read the letter titled “Stereo DAC
Won’t Handle 96kHz Signals” in the
Ask SILICON CHIP pages of March 2016.
I built one of these a few months ago,
also bought from Altronics, and I had
similar shenanigans with the optical
inputs.
Before starting, I had changed the
capacitors from 33pF to 100pF as per
the errata. Both inputs would randomly pop and burble and each time the
input LEDs would flick from green to
orange. The coax input was fine.
After opening up the case I began
tinkering but couldn’t find an obvious
cause. I did find that placing a finger on
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June 2016 11
Mailbag: continued
Automatic car starter
is a bad idea
The Circuit Notebook pages in the
April 2016 issue contained a submission by Alexandre Ossine, for an
Automatic Starter Circuit for cars.
The submission was made with
excellent intent but I feel the author
does not fully understand some aspects of vehicle operation and usage and has suggested a circuit that
I believe is a high-risk addition to
the general configuration of starting
circuits in normal cars. (I won’t discuss the remote start capability on
some of the “supertechnomobiles”).
The basic idea of the circuit presented by is to initiate the starting
cycle when the ignition is turned
on and I believe this has some risky
and/or dubious aspects:
• If the keys are left in the car then a
child who scrambles into the driver’s
seat could more easily start the car
and cause it to lurch forward or backward and potentially pin a young
child or adult under the wheel. This
flies against the current general concerns about the number of children
being killed or injured by “reversing
without looking” and similar accident situations.
top of the optical input in use would
kill the signal completely.
After hooking it back up to an amplifier and turning up the gain, I discovered that both inputs were making
a hissing noise similar to an FM radio
between stations while again, the coax
input was totally silent. I tried supplying 5V instead of 3.3V to see if things
improved but it made them worse. Putting a finger on the TOSLINK socket
clinched it; a local radio station began
blaring out!
The fix involved running a wire
from ground at the power supply, via
a 1kΩ resistor paralleled with a 0.1µF
capacitor, to the chassis earth (my
usual procedure with audio gear that
I build). This improved things considerably but wasn’t a complete cure.
On closer inspection, I discovered
that the front two pins (closest to the
edge of the PCB) of the TOSLINK units
12 Silicon Chip
•
•
As the author points out, this
arrangement relies on the alternator operating correctly and in some
circumstances the starter will continue to turn even after the engine
has started. This could result in an
enormously expensive repair or even
a fire. It could also be a risk factor in
an accident where we could end up
with the engine running, fuel pumping, and damaged fuel lines and the
associated high fire risk, etc.
• The author suggests the fitting of
a second switch which, when actuated, prevents the alternator-based
problems described in the last paragraph. In the real world, I can see this
being forgotten almost all the time.
• The author claims that the arrangement will reduce the time the
starter motor is running and thus
reduce wear and battery drain. This
is completely wrong as the time to
start is based on a combination of
fuel input to the combustion chamber, engine rotation and spark presentation in the combustion chamber
and this will be the same whether
this circuit initiated the starter motor
at ignition-on or as a second action
against a spring loaded position of
the ignition key.
are a wire loop, designed to hold the
part firmly to the board. Soldering a
wire link between these and ground
completed the cure.
Unfortunately, during my tinkering
I managed to kill one input, so I made
a trip to my local Jaycar and picked up
their last stock of TOSLINK inputs and
made the swap. Interestingly, I didn’t
need to link the front pins to ground
this time.
By the way, the delicate sound this
thing produces makes my old, heavily
tweaked CD player sound very average! I’ve had great results following
the tweaks I found here:
http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/
thread/5237/sc-dac-tweaks
Mike Adams,
Christchurch, NZ.
Digital TV & MPEG4
I have read the article on “Digital TV
I note also that the vehicle owner
cannot check accessory function as
the ignition-on position will initiate
starter motor action, which is likely
to be unnecessary and to me has
many risks.
My feeling is that this arrangement would not be an approved
modification. I will be advising the
four Car Clubs I am associated with
on the basis that this circuit can’t be
recommended generally as it introduces considerable risk for no gain in
functionality. Also, the risk involved
exposes the author to claims and litigation if an accident arises as a result
of fitting this to an existing vehicle’s
electrical configuration and its fitting
may cause the insurance company to
deny a claim in the event of a fire etc.
I think you should advise readers
accordingly.
Ranald Grant,
Brisbane, Qld.
Comment: this Circuit Notebook item
was comprehensively panned in the
Mailbag pages of the May 2016 issue and was the subject of Notes &
Errata on page 104 of the same issue. In addition, we have removed
the item completely from the on-line
edition.
We are publishing your comments
to reinforce the message. It is a bad
idea.
& MPEG4” in the April 2016 issue and
the first thing that came to my mind
was: why didn’t the consumer alarm
bells start ringing after my published
letter in SILICON CHIP, February 2012,
regarding the Seven network introducing MPEG4 for Ch74 TV4ME in
late 2011? Now we have two Full HD
channels and three SD channels using MPEG4, with more to come, and
suddenly the masses are protesting
because their $5000 HD TV purchased
in 2010 can’t display them.
I even have elderly friends who
waited until the last minute in 2013 before analog broadcasts were switched
off in Sydney before buying their DTVs
from a well known German supermarket. They weren’t aware of Ch74 but
they are very annoyed now because
their investment has only lasted two
years.
In our DVB-T infancy, I questioned
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 13
Mailbag: continued
Atmospheric electricity
& troublesome clouds
After reading the article on Atmospheric Electricity in the May 2016
issue, I was thinking of my experiences while working with what was
then the Department of Civil Aviation. I was based at Adelaide Airport.
About 5pm one Friday night in
the early 1980s, as I was about to
finish work for the day, I answered
the phone; it was from Parafield Airport. Lightning had blown up some
modules in the control tower and the
non-directional beacon had failed. I
replaced the modules in the control
tower and then went to the beacon
and replaced the RF module.
The large protective zener diode
across the PA transistor was shorted.
The beacon frequency was about
206kHz and the aerial had inductive loading at the base and capacitive loading at the top. It proved
impossible to tune the aerial as a
large black cloud remained above.
The beacon was finally restored to
service on the Saturday.
Another incident occurred at the
main VHF communications outlet in
the Mount Lofty Ranges overlooking
Adelaide. I was called out one night
with the report that all VHF communications at the site had failed. On
arrival I noticed a big black cloud
overhead. The transmitters were all
working so all I could do was wait
until the cloud had passed over and
everything was normal again. Fortunately there were back-up facilities
at the airport but with limited coverage due to the Mount Lofty Ranges.
A similar incident occurred at
Parafield Airport about midday; all
VHF communications had failed. I
suspected a similar incident to the
above. When I arrived, the sky was
clear so I rang the control tower from
the ground floor and yes the problem was over.
I have never seen an explanation
for this phenomenon and I assume
the clouds were ionised and acting
like a shield, blocking any radiation.
Brian Thomas,
Fulham Gardens, SA.
the authorities at an Expo at Darling
Harbour as to why channels Two, Seven, Nine & Ten were still using VHF
instead UHF for metro regions. These
channels suffered pixellation problems from something as simple as the
washing machine changing cycle or
opening the fridge door, whereas SBS
on UHF didn’t.
The response was along the lines
of: “Despite SBS being on UHF Ch28
analog and Ch34 digital, households
were successfully able to watch them
with their cheap combination VHF/
UHF Band 4 antenna. Putting the others onto UHF would mean many households would require a new antenna and
we don’t want to inconvenience them”.
Now back to MPEG4. In the audio
world, audiophiles made a huge noise
over vinyl and CDs and now we have
DAB+ and these same audiophiles are
bitterly complaining about severely
degraded audio quality due the high
orders of compression used. I wrote
to you in February 2012 asking about
what actually qualifies and quantifies
SD, HD and Full HD. I know you can’t
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14 Silicon Chip
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Using excess solar power
for water heating
Greg Green makes a good point about the possibility
of using excess solar power to heat water (Mailbag, page
12, April 2016). Heated water is a high-capacity energy
store and cheaper than batteries (plus the HWS is usually
pre-existing). Using a modest dedicated PV array for water heating would probably be too slow but diverting the
spare output of a large array would potentially be faster.
A VFD (variable frequency drive) would not vary power
to a resistive load, as it does to an AC motor. But hold on,
Greg said VSD; that’s a DC motor drive and that would
do it, so long as it takes an external control signal (either
PWM or 10V analog is typical for VSDs).
Cheaper still would be phase control with a Triac, if the
230VAC inverter would tolerate that. Such a box could
readily take an opto-isolated PWM input for controlling
power diversion. In either case, a PV array monitor could
be used to detect how much power is spare. On an offgrid system, battery charging takes priority, so additional
smart monitoring is required.
Current planning for my hybrid solar off-grid home &
workshop system includes a wood heater-boosted solar hot
water heater but the best way to divert excess PV power
to its electric boost element is not yet clear.
Would battery voltage measurement (ie, detecting the
float stage) plus the detection of minimal charging current
suffice for battery full charge detection? A PV array voltage well over Vmp implies spare capacity, I figure. Power
could then be drawn from the battery inverter – up to the
point where battery discharge would occur. We’d only be
drawing power from the array via the 48V DC bus. That
would require an MPPT charger and inverter to be dimensioned for the excess capacity.
Much better would be Greg’s VSD, driven directly from
the PV array, via a separate (parasitic) MPPT device which
draws only when the main MPPT isn’t pulling the array
down to Vmp. That may need a fixed Vmp target to be
preset, to avoid two competing MPPTs causing instability. The extra cost of dimensioning the 240VAC inverter
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publish every question and letter but seeing the April 2016
issue, nothing has been resolved.
Are you really expecting me to believe that if I was to
do an A-B comparison of a movie shown in Full HD on
DTV with high compression and low data bit rate to the
same movie on Blu-ray, I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference? Full HD is 1920 x 1080 pixels and that appears
to be it; the content can be compressed as heavily as the
broadcasters prefer. All in the name of trying to squeeze
more channels into 7MHz!
It’s amazing how the Kiwis got it right from the start.
All DVT-B is on UHF Band 4 with 8MHz bandwidth or
via satellite and all is done with MPEG4. How did our
authorities get this costly inconvenience so wrong, again?
Simon Kareh,
Penshurst, NSW.
Comment: you are right about New Zealand. It does seem
as though their authorities are much better at making the
right technical decisions.
June 2016 15
Mailbag: continued
Helping to put you in Control
SparkFun SAMD21 Dev Breakout
An Arduino-sized breakout for
the Atmel ATSAMD21G18, a 32bit ARM Cortex-M0+ processor
with 256KB flash, 32KB SRAM,
and an operating speed of up to
48MHz
SKU: SFA-014
Price: $39.95 ea + GST
TxRail USB Non Isolated DIN
Mount Module
DIN rail mount signal conditioner
takes thermocouples, Pt100
sensors or 0 to 50 mV in and
outputs 4 to 20 mA. Programable
zero and span. Loop powered.
SKU: SIG-0021
Price: $109.00 ea + GST
Sale: Warning Lights
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warning and indication lights on
clearance! Includes IP65 rated light
towers. While stocks last!
TECO Contactors
Excellent prices on heavy duty
contractors for switching large
loads like AC motors. 3 kW to
11 kW models from $24.95
+ GST
LED Strip Lighting
300mm, 500mm and 1
metre long industrial LED
strip lighting. 12 VDC
and 24 VDC versions.
We brought these in for
lighting inside cabinets
and switchboards but found them great for
general purpose lighting of work spaces.
Includes waterproof models.
Solar Radiation Sensor 4-20mA
Solar Radiation sensor with
4-20mA signal output.
Designed to measure global
radiation, the sum at the point
of measurement of both the
direct and diffuse components
of solar irradiance
SKU: KTA-304
Price: $255.00 ea + GST
Fancy cases for Ultra-LD Mk.4
amplifier & CLASSiC DAC
I thought you might like to see
some pictures of my completed
SILICON CHIP DAC (February-May
2013) and Ultra-LD Mk.4 stereo
power amplifier (July-September
2015). The preamplifier, input
selector and power supply were
purchased as kits from Altronics,
while I purchased the PCBs for
the two amplifier modules and
the speaker protector from the
SILICON CHIP On-line Shop.
My main challenge, in addition
of the completion of the boards,
was to find nice enclosures for
the two units (I wanted something
different from the standard black
boxes). Eventually, I found a manufacturer in Bologna, Italy (www.
modushop.biz/site) which was able
to make customised aluminium enclosures for me, with laser engraving
at the back and silk-screening on the
front, in addition to the milling and
anodisation work for the finishing.
I think the result is excellent. This
amplifier enclosure integrates the
heatsinks on each side. I designed
the front and the back panels using
Adobe Illustrator, then sent them
the DXF files.
I have been using the amplifier for
a while now and I have to say I am
very pleased with it. It sounds different from my Pioneer LX85 (AV
receiver), with more sound-stage and
better voice separation. The sound
signature is clearly different and it’s
a joy to listen to the music.
Olivier Aubertin,
Singapore.
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Prices are subject to change without notice.
16 Silicon Chip
and MPPT charger for excess capacity
is sidestepped.
If the VSD, like most VFDs, first fullwave rectifies its input, then it can run
on DC, though only two diodes in the
bridge conduct (continuously), potentially limiting its power handling.
However, if we’re building an MPPT
to only use the spare power, it could
be made to drive the heater element
directly, ditching the VSD.
There are fewer difficulties in oversizing on an off-grid system with a
battery inverter. Over-sizing reduces
the required battery capacity (big cost
saving), by harvesting a larger proportion of requirements on overcast days.
That provides a large excess on most
afternoons, allowing diversion to water heating.
Erik Christiansen,
Tecoma, Vic.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 17
Small nuclea
– safe power, very low p
by
Dr David Maddison
S
With the trend away from coal-fired thermal power
stations, Australia still needs reliable base-load
power stations. Apart from natural gas power
stations, the only other alternative is to choose
nuclear power stations but they don’t need to be
the really large installations that would previously
have been considered. Instead, they could be small
modular nuclear reactors.
ILICON CHIP discussed new developments in
fossil fuel plants with supercritical steam plants in
the December 2015 issue (www.siliconchip.com.
au/Issue/2015/December/Super+%2526+Ultra-SuperCritical+Steam+Power+Stations)
Now we take a look at new developments in nuclear reactor technology. Around the world, there is a trend away
from centralised power generation, partly due to the proliferation of small solar and wind generation plants.
This trend applies to nuclear reactors as well and a number of small size, transportable nuclear reactors are under
development.
“Small” nuclear power reactors are regarded as reactors
with an electrical output of less than about 300MW, compared with large centralised power stations which might
have an electrical output of as much as several gigawatts.
The advantages of a small nuclear reactor, otherwise
known as a small modular reactor (SMR), are as follows:
• A small modular reactor can be built in a factory and
then transported to the site where it will be used. Mass
production should lead to economies of scale, standard
designs, centralised quality assurance and lower cost
18 Silicon Chip
compared to building a reactor on site.
• A small reactor can be located where power is needed
and avoids the need for large, high voltage power lines
run over long distances.
• Due to the small size of the reactor it can be buried in
the ground for an extra level of containment and also the
small size allows for passive safety systems that can work
with no power whatsoever such as convective cooling.
• If more power is eventually required, such as for a township growing in size, another reactor can be shipped in
to supplement the first.
• As the reactor unit is transportable it could be effectively
operated as a sealed system and when it needed refuelling, returned to the factory and another unit installed
in its place.
• Relatively few staff would be required to operated the
reactor.
• Capital costs will be less so there are more financing
options.
• The cost of electricity might be a little greater compared
to a large reactor but that might be offset by a lower acquisition cost per unit of power, due to the mass prosiliconchip.com.au
ar reactors
pollution, very low risk
duction savings of the smaller reactor plus the fact that
no long distance power lines are required if the reactor
is built near where the power will be used.
• Small reactors are not new, militaries have been using
small powerful reactors in nuclear submarines, cruisers,
icebreakers and aircraft carriers for many decades with
few incidents. Even when the Russian submarine, the
Kursk exploded with an explosive force that registered
1.5 on the Richter earthquake scale, the reactors automatically shut down without a problem.
• In the USA an additional reason for interest is that they
can be used to replace, on the same sites, a lot of small
coal-fired plants which are currently being decommissioned due to age and environmental regulations.
In 2010-12 the average size of coal-fired plants replaced
was 97MWe (MWe means megawatts of electrical power)
and in 2015-25 the size is expected to average 145MWe, so
most plants that are to be retired are well within the sub300MWe size range covered by small modular reactors.
• Due to their transportability they could be used to power
remote mining sites or small towns in the outback.
• Some SMR designs claim to response fast enough for
“load following”, to stabilise the grid to compensate for
the highly variable output of wind and solar power and
could also be used for peak load and backup units. (Note:
the most likely candidates to be suitable for load following
are gas-cooled reactors like HTR-PM; see diagram overleaf.)
• Apart from production of electricity, uses of SMRs include desalination, district heating, process heat for industry and production of hydrogen.
The operating principles of small nuclear reactors are
much the same as larger ones but can be somewhat simplified due to their smaller size which allows more simple
cooling and control systems and the ability to mass produce
them which will result in a standard, optimised design.
Operating principles
Nuclear reactors release energy due to a nuclear chain
reaction. This process occurs when a single nuclear reaction
such as the emission of a neutron from an atomic nucleus
causes one or more nuclear reactions in other atoms, starting a self-propagating series of similar events.
When a neutron from the chain reaction hits an atomic
nucleus it will be either absorbed or it will cause the nucleus
to split. In the event that the nucleus of an atom is split, a
process known as fission, a large amount of energy is released.
For fission to occur there must be a source of neutrons
plus there must be atoms which are fissionable (capable of
being split and sustaining a nuclear chain reaction). Note
that fissionable materials are not necessarily fissile, ie, not
siliconchip.com.au
all fissionable material can be used for nuclear weapons.
In addition, in most reactors the neutrons have to be
slowed to a particular speed to be most effective and this
is done with a moderator, which is usually normal water
(H2O), graphite or heavy water (D2O).
Nuclear fuels
All nuclear reactors require specific fissionable isotopes
of certain elements for their operation (see box describing
what isotopes are). Three nuclear fuels and their particular isotopes which have been determined to be practical
are as follows:
235U (uranium 235) that is enriched from mined uranium, which is mainly 238U. 235U can also be used to build
nuclear weapons. Pure 238U is also known as depleted
uranium or DU. It is not fissionable but can be converted
to a fissionable fuel called 239Pu (plutonium 239) by the
process of transmutation inside a reactor (the transformation of one element into another).
235U is the world’s most common nuclear fuel and is
usually used in a “light water reactor” (LWR).
239Pu (plutonium 239) transmuted from natural mined
238U is used as either a by-product from the normal operation of a power reactor or is deliberately added into
the fuel rods. 239Pu is also used in nuclear weapons. This
238U/239Pu fuel is less common and has been used in
liquid sodium fast breeder reactors and so-called CANDU
reactors (a Canadian pressurised heavy water reactor).
One type of nuclear chain
reaction involving 235U.
First a neutron hits an atom of
235U which causes it to fission
into two new atoms,
three neutrons and a large
amount of energy. One of the
three neutrons is absorbed by an
atom of 238U and no further
reaction occurs. Another of the
neutrons is not absorbed and l
eaves the system. The middle
neutron shown strikes an atom of
235U causing it to fission (split)
just as at the first step, releasing
energy and in this case, two
more neutrons. The average
numberof neutrons released from
the thermal fission of uranium is
just under 2.5 (slightly fewer when
initiated by a fast neutron).
June 2016 19
n
U-238
92 protons
146 neutrons
U-239
−
92 protons
147 neutrons
23.45 minutes
(half life)
Np-239
−
93 protons
146 neutrons
2.35 days
(half life)
Pu-239
94 protons
145 neutrons
(Left): transmutation of 238U to
239Pu, an important reaction in the
nuclear fuel cycle. The small circles
represent neutrons or electrons and
the arrows indicate whether they
are arriving or being ejected. The
intermediate isotopes that are created
are relatively short-lived and soon
decay into the desired isotope.
233U can be transmuted from 232Th (thorium 232). It
is best utilised in molten salt reactors (MSRs), specifically
Liquid Fluoride Thorium Reactors [LFTRs].
Note that of these three fuel types, the thorium-based fuel
is the only one without military uses in nuclear weapons.
Nuclear fission
After an atom has been split, the total mass of particles
involved in the fission process is less than before it because
some mass has been converted into energy, according to
Einstein’s famous equation, E=mc2.
This is millions of times more energy than would be
released if the same amount of mass was released in a
chemical reaction such as the burning of coal. For example, a piece of 235U the size of a grain of rice contains as
much energy as three tonnes of coal. This is the reason
why nuclear power is so “energy dense” – a little fuel goes
a long way.
In a nuclear power plant the chain reaction is maintained
at a constant rate and a runaway chain reaction that would
cause a nuclear explosion is impossible due to the purity
and physical arrangement of the fissionable material.
In a nuclear explosive device, which contains highly
pure fissionable material in close proximity, the design
specifically allows a runaway chain reaction which is impossible to stop once started.
In a nuclear power plant the energy that is produced by
the fission process is mostly in the form of heat which is
20 Silicon Chip
(Above): transmutation of thorium into
uranium which takes around 27 days. When
233U absorbs a neutron, it fissions and releases
energy and neutrons. Some of the neutrons
it releases are absorbed by 232Th which
continues the process of transmuting the
thorium.
typically used to convert water into steam to drive a turbine and alternator to produce electricity.
As noted above, 238U and 232Th are not fissionable
materials, ie, their atoms cannot be split. So how can they
be used in a nuclear reactor? 238U and 232Th are known
as fertile materials.
That means they can be converted (transmuted) into a
fissionable material by bombarding them with neutrons.
Small reactors
Electricity was first produced by a nuclear reactor in 1951
and the electrical output was just 45kW. Since then, commercial reactors for electricity production have tended to
get larger and larger. There are currently 442 commercial
power reactors in operation around the world producing
a total of 383,513GW, giving an average output of 868MW
per reactor. But now the trend is being reversed.
The idea of a portable or modular nuclear reactor is not
new. Two notable examples are as follows.
The nuclear reactor near the South Pole
There was once a small “portable” nuclear reactor at the
US McMurdo Station in Antarctica. The rationale was to
avoid shipping in of vast amounts of diesel for the generators plus steam from the reactor would be used in a desalination plant.
The reactor could produce 1.8MW of electrical power
and 56,000 litres of fresh water per day. The reactor went
siliconchip.com.au
The PM-3A reactor core being lowered into position at
McMurdo Station, Antarctica.
critical in March 1962 and after testing and debugging, was
operational from 1964 until 1972.
The model of the reactor was designated PM-3A. It was
third in a series that were portable and deliverable with a
ski-equipped version of the Hercules aircraft, the LC-130.
Of the other two reactors in this series the PM-1 reactor was
used to power a remote radar station in Wyoming while
the PM-2A was used to power a remote US military base
in northern Greenland. Each reactor had a power output
of 1.25-2.0MW.
Unusually, the 235U fuel was highly enriched at 93.1%
which meant that it was weapons grade uranium which
is classified as any uranium with greater than 90% 235U.
Possibly for this reason, the reactor was under the control
of the US Navy’s Naval Nuclear Propulsion Unit with a
crew of 25. The fuel assembly itself was about the size of
an oil drum.
Unfortunately that reactor was not a great success, recording 438 malfunctions over its 8 years of use. It was available only 72% of the time. When it was decommissioned
it was found to have leaked radioactive coolant through
cracks in the reactor vessel into the soil beneath. That required the removal of 9,000 cubic meters of contaminated
soil back to the US mainland along with the reactor itself.
The US Army Nuclear Program started in 1954 and ran
until 1977, to develop small portable nuclear reactors to
produce electricity and heat at remote locations. Eight different reactor designs were built and the program made a
number of significant technical achievements but ultimately
it was thought to be a “solution in search of a problem”.
The reactor mentioned at the McMurdo Station, the PM3A, as well as the related units PM-1 and PM-2A were part
of this program.
A video of the program can be watched at https://youtu.be/
HPWDMHH4rY4 (“Army Nuclear Power Program, 1969”).
Various views of the CAREM-25 reactor.
The EGP-6 reactor is a Russian 11MW design of which
four units are in operation at one power plant, built between 1966 and 1976, to serve the gold mine operating in
a remote area and are not connected to the national grid.
SMRs under construction
CAREM-25 (Central ARgentina de Elementos Modulares)
is a reactor being built in Argentina to produce 25MW of
electrical power. The design incorporates passive safety
systems and is cooled by natural convection; no coolant
pumps are required. Once the design is proven a larger
version will be built of 100-200MW capacity.
The HTR-PM reactor (high-temperature pebble bed
modular nuclear reactor) is a Chinese design producing
100MW. It will be configured as a twin modular reactor
design driving a single steam turbine to produce 200MW
of electrical power. The unit uses helium as the coolant
and the uranium fuel is in the form of 520,000 spheres. The
total installation is known as the HTR-200. It is expected
to be connected to the grid in 2017.
Current small modular reactors
The CNP-300 is China’s first commercial reactor design,
of which two are in operation in China and commercial
operation started in 1994. It produces 310MW of electricity and has a 40-year design life. Two units have also been
exported to Pakistan.
The PHWR-220 is an Indian design producing 220MW
and 16 units are in operation. One reason that small reactors were chosen is that it was feared India’s electrical
grid could not handle the distribution of power from large
centralised reactors. Commercial operation of the first one
began in 1973.
siliconchip.com.au
Steam is generated in the
HTR-PM by the transport of
heat by helium gas. The OTSG is
the once-through steam generator. The reflector
refers to the nuclear core’s neutron reflector.
June 2016 21
Nuclear fuel cycles
As nuclear fuels are consumed in a conventional
uranium-plutonium reactor there comes a time when the
depleted nuclear fuel has to be removed and new fuel
added. Old fuel needs to be processed and prepared
for disposal or it may be recycled in one of two ways.
Spent nuclear fuel from a typical reactor still has
most of its original potential energy within it, as only a
few percent of the available energy is extracted.
Usually, this nuclear material is considered “waste”
and is buried. It has been estimated that if all the nuclear waste generated in the United States in the last
50 years was dug up and reused to extract the residual
energy left within it the entire US electrical grid could
be run for 93 years at present rates of consumption.
Furthermore, the waste left from this recycling process would only be significantly radioactive for hundreds of years rather than tens of thousands.
The process described above is termed the “once
through cycle”. Typically uranium ore is mined, enriched, used in a reactor where 235U is gradually
consumed and when that is sufficiently depleted the
“waste”, which contains a variety of fission by-products
is treated and buried in long term storage.
An alternative to burying waste is to transmute it into
shorter-lived radioactive materials in a “fast burner reactor” but while these exist, the are not yet widely used.
The waste contains potentially useful components
such as some unused 235U and some 239Pu.
The closed fuel cycle
The alternative to seemingly wasteful burial of nuclear waste as described above is to recycle it either
within the “closed fuel cycle” or the “breeder fuel cycle”.
In the closed fuel cycle, useful 235U and 239Pu is
extracted from the waste and reintroduced to the reactor as fresh fuel. 239Pu acts much like 235U in a reactor and is used in much the same way. One downside
of this process is cost and another is that it involves
the extraction of pure plutonium which could be stolen
and used to make a nuclear weapon which is why it is
not done in most places.
The main useful component of radioactive waste is
238U which is otherwise generally considered useless
in a reactor as it is not fissile but it can be converted
to something that is fissile which is 239Pu (plutonium).
The conversion of 238U to fissile 239Pu can be
done in a special type of reactor called a fast breeder.
In this reaction 238U absorbs a neutron and converted
to 239U which decays quickly to 239Np (neptunium)
which decays quickly to 239Pu.
In the breeder fuel cycle, breeder reactors are used
to create new fissile material. They are designed to
convert non fissile isotopes to fissile isotope materials
like 239Pu from 238U or 233U from 232Th that can be
used in a reactor. In this way the nuclear resources are
greatly extended and the maximum amount of energy is
extracted from the nuclear material. Downsides as with
the closed fuel cycle are cost and proliferation issues.
Thorium reactor designs are intrinsically breeders as
they convert 232Th to 233U in their normal operation.
22 Silicon Chip
Artist’s concept of the Russian floating nuclear cogeneration plant the Akademik Lomonosov, currently under
construction. It can deliver onshore heat, electricity and
fresh water. It will be returned to base for maintenance
operations however it can run for 10-12 years before
refuelling and has an expected service life of 40 years.
See the video at https://youtu.be/VbSSjRS2CnU (“Russia
Plans Floating Nuclear Power Plant”)
Floating nuclear power plants – the KL-40TS
A floating nuclear reactor is an effective way to deliver
power to third world countries with no maintenance capability, deliver high levels of power capacity to regions
on a temporary basis such as after a disaster or for a major
construction project or to deliver power to otherwise inaccessible regions. Naturally the area to which power is to be
delivered must be close to sea, a harbour or a major river.
One example is the Russian Akademik Lomonosov. The
vessel was launched in 2010 and it will begin operation
in 2018. It is 144m long, 30m wide, has a displacement of
21,500 tonnes and a crew of 70.
It has two model KLT-40C reactors of 150MW thermal
and 38.5MW electric power each and an optional reverse
osmosis desalination plant that can deliver 240 megalitres
per day of fresh water (compare that with Victoria’s desalination plant that can deliver 410 megalitres) and can deliver
onshore heat, electricity and desalinated water.
Note that this vessel is expected to cost US$336 million (A$444 million) and Victoria’s desalination plant cost
A$5.7 billion for only 1.7 times the capacity but nearly 13
times the cost.
It is built within international regulatory guidelines.
Such a design would be ideal for Africa because they are
discouraged from developing fossil power due to international environmental opinion and are expected to develop
using solar and wind power which is simply not going
to provide their full energy needs at any reasonable cost.
Planned SMRs
The ACP100 is a Chinese design with an electrical output
of 100-150MW. Two demonstration units are to be installed
in the city of Zhangzhou and will provide electricity, heat
and 12 megalitres per day of desalinated water. Construction was scheduled to start in 2015 year and commercial
operation in 2017. In addition, China plans to build a floating nuclear power plant based upon this design to be put
into commercial production by 2019.
mPower is a design by Babcock and Wilcox for a reactor
to produce 180MW. It will be bought to site by rail and combined modules could make a power station of any desired
siliconchip.com.au
ACP100 reactor.
(Source IAEA).
size. The reactor
assembly is 4.5m
in diameter and
22m tall and will
be installed below ground level.
Refuelling will be
done every four
years. A sixty year
service life is expected and it has
passive safety systems.
The NuScale
reactor is smaller
than most others with a 50MW
output. It is a factory built unit,
3m in diameter
and 22m long. It
incorporates convective cooling
and the only moving parts are the
reactor control
rods. It is envisaged that a power
plant would have
12 modules to give a 600MW power output. Refuelling
would be at two year intervals. Design life is sixty years.
This reactor has good load-following capabilities so can
be used to back up solar and wind or cope with other rapid
variations in grid production. The weight of a module is
700 tonnes and it can be shipped to site by barge, truck
or train. Its cost is under US$5,100 per kW. Its reactor can
automatically shut down with the complete
absence of external power.
South Korea is developing the SMART reactor or System-Integrated Modular Advanced
ReacTor. Each unit will produce 90MWe and
heat from the reactor will be used to boil salt
water in a process to provide 40 megalitres
per day of desalinated water. The unit is of
the pressurised water design.
Design life of the unit is 60 years and it uses
4.8% enriched fuel that needs to be replaced
every three years. There is an agreement in
place to build a unit in Saudi Arabia at a cost
of US$1 billion.
Future reactor concepts
The General Atomics EM2 or Energy Multiplier Module is a novel modular reactor deThis gives a good idea of the size of small
reactors, with a man shown at the bottom for
comparison. In most cases, the vast majority
of the reactor would be underground, with
only a small building above ground.
siliconchip.com.au
What are isotopes?
Chemical elements are comprised of a nucleus made of
protons and neutrons (except the simplest form of hydrogen has no neutrons) and a shell of electrons, the number
of which matches the number of protons.
Isotopes are a variation of a particular element in which
the nucleus has a different number of neutrons. The number
of protons, which defines the atomic number of an element is
always the same for any given element, no matter the number of neutrons it has. For a given element, certain isotopes
may be stable and others may be radioactive and/or fissile.
Specific isotopes of elements such as uranium and plutonium need to be selected for nuclear power applications
while for thorium, no selection is necessary because nearly
all the material that occurs in nature is of the one useful
specific isotope.
This fortuitous fact means that expensive enrichment to
a particular isotope type is not needed, it is simply mined,
purified, turned into the appropriate chemical form and used.
Hydrogen, the simplest element and its two isotopes,
deuterium and tritium. All have the same number of
protons (one) and up to two neutrons. The chemical
behaviour of different isotopes is similar. Protium is the
name for the common isotope of hydrogen.
signed to consume nuclear waste. As noted in the section
on “Nuclear Fuel Cycles” in the conventional fuel cycle
only a few percent or less of the potential energy of nuclear
fuel has been extracted by the time it is buried as waste.
This reactor extracts that remaining energy from what otherwise would be buried.
Furthermore, once that waste has been through the reactor and its energy extracted, the storage requirements will
only be hundreds of years for the waste rather than many
thousands. The reactor is extremely versatile in the waste
or fuel it can use. It is capable of consuming enriched uranium, weapons grade uranium, depleted uranium, thorium,
used nuclear fuel and its own discharge.
A low enriched uranium “starter” fuel is consumed in
one part of the nuclear core to transmute used nuclear
fuel (waste), 238U or 232Th to fissionable material and
the residual of that is then used in a second generation of
the cycle.
The reactor is capable of operating for 30 years without
refuelling and will also produce 240MW of electricity. (It
should be noted that some have argued that this reactor is
not as intrinsically safe as other designs).
Thorium-fuelled reactors
Thorium has many potential advantages over uranium
and plutonium fuels. It is very common in nature, does not
June 2016 23
require expensive enrichment and nor
can it be used to make nuclear weapons. Thorium can be used in most current and foreseeable reactor designs.
Today, thorium would typically be
mixed with plutonium or enriched
uranium.
While it is feasible to use solid thorium in reactors, the real advantage is
that it can be used in a liquid form, in
particular as a molten fluoride-based
salt.
Such reactors are known as a Liquid
Fluoride Thorium Reactors or LFTR
(pronounced “lifter”). They are of a
general class of reactors known as
Molten Salt Reactors (MSRs).
The liquid fluoride salt contains
lithium and beryllium, mixed with
233U for the core salt and 232Th in
the so-called blanket salt. As previously explained, it is the 233U which
undergoes fission and this is the heart
of the reactor.
However 232Th is the source of the
233U via transmutation. A salt “blanket” containing 232Th is wrapped
around the core where it absorbs neutrons to effect the transformation.
In a LFTR reactor, the molten salt
fuel would be continuously processed
by chemical means to remove undesired nuclear by-products.
Unlike solid fuels, this is relatively
simple to do by pumping the molten
salt through a treatment plant while
the reactor is operating.
The liquid salt mixture is chemically stable and not damaged by neutrons like conventional solid fuels.
Being a liquid it is also the medium
used to convey heat out of the reactor to a heat exchanger, to eventually
make electricity.
A further advantage is that a reactor
based on molten salts is unpressurised,
thus eliminating the possibility of failure due to over-pressurisation of the
reactor core.
Any notion of a meltdown as can
happen with solid fuels is also irrelevant as the fuel is already in a molten
state. In addition, if the liquid salt
medium should overheat, the power
produced automatically reduces, due
to a reduction of density of the fuel
salt and so the reactor is intrinsically
self-regulating.
At the bottom of the liquid salt bath
there is a “freeze plug” of the salt solution and it is kept frozen by a fan
blowing on it.
In the event of a power failure, the
fan stops blowing and the plug melts,
enabling the liquid salt to drain into a
tank which is passively cooled.
Nuclear Energy in Australia
Australia seems ideally placed to
use nuclear energy and has abundant
supplies of nuclear fuels including
the largest reserves of uranium and
the third largest reserves of thorium.
In particular, Australia has a large
number of remote towns and mining
communities which rely on mainly
diesel power generation at great cost
due to the fact that diesel fuel has to
be shipped in.
These places would seem ideally
suited to utilise small modular reactors.
In addition, small modular reactors
could be used to desalinate otherwise
unusable saline bore water or sea water
and vast expanses or the outback could
be irrigated at relatively low cost.
Australia has seriously considered
Demonstration of the efficiency and energy density of thorium compared to uranium. 248 “MT” (metric tonnes) of
uranium is eventually converted to 1000MW years of electricity (i.e. 1000MW continuous production for one year)
compared to the same electricity production from thorium with just 0.9 metric tonnes (ie, 900kg). 500 metric tonnes
of thorium could supply all of the United States energy requirements for one year.
24 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
nuclear power in the past. There was a
1969 proposal for a 500MW reactor to
be built in Jervis Bay, NSW which was
abandoned in 1971. There was also a
proposal to build a reactor on French
Island in Victoria.
However, most Australian political
parties are openly hostile to nuclear
power. Most politicians do not even
understand the inherent safety of thorium-based generation.
The overall hostility to nuclear
power in this country is unlikely to
change anytime soon without a major
shift in attitudes – and this is despite
the recent (May) announcement of
Australia’s first repository for nuclear
waste.
Small reactors currently in use
Name
CNP-300
PHWR-220
EGP-6
Capacity
300MWe
220MWe
11MWe
Type
PWR
PHWR
LWGR
Developer
CNNC, operational in Pakistan & China
NPCIL, India
at Bilibino, Siberia (co-generation)
Small reactor designs under construction
Name
KLT-40S
CAREM
HTR-PM, HTR-200
Capacity
35MWe
27MWe
2x105MWe
Type
PWR
integral PWR
HTR
Developer
OKBM, Russia
CNEA & INVAP, Argentina
INET, CNEC & Huaneng, China
Small (25MWe up) reactors for near-term deployment – development well advanced
Name
VBER-300
NuScale
Westinghouse SMR
mPower
SMR-160
ACP100
SMART
Prism
BREST
SVBR-100
Capacity
300MWe
50MWe
225MWe
180MWe
160MWe
100MWe
100MWe
311MWe
300MWe
100MWe
Type
PWR
integral PWR
integral PWR
integral PWR
PWR
integral PWR
integral PWR
sodium FNR
lead FNR
lead-Bi FNR
Developer
OKBM, Russia
NuScale Power + Fluor, USA
Westinghouse, USA*
Bechtel + BWXT, USA
Holtec, USA
NPIC/CNNC, China
KAERI, South Korea
GE-Hitachi, USA
RDIPE, Russia
AKME-engineering, Russia
Small (25MWe up) reactor designs at earlier stages (or shelved)
Name
EM2
VK-300
AHWR-300 LEU
CAP150
ACPR100
IMR
PBMR
SC-HTGR (Antares)
Xe-100
Gen4 module
Moltex SSR
MCFR
TMSR-SF
PB-FHR
Integral MSR
Thorcon MSR
Leadir-PS100
Capacity
240MWe
300MWe
300MWe
150MWe
140MWe
350MWe
165MWe
250MWe
48MWe
25MWe
~ 60MWe
unknown
100MWt
100MWe
192MWe
250MWe
36MWe
Abbreviation Key:
PWR – pressurised water reactor
LWGR – light water graphite reactor
FNR – fast neutron reactor
MWe – megawatts of electrical power
Type
HTR, FNR
BWR
PHWR
integral PWR
integral PWR
integral PWR
HTR
HTR
HTR
FNR
MSR/FNR
MSR/FNR
MSR
MSR
MSR
MSR
lead-cooled
Developer
General Atomics (USA)
RDIPE, Russia
BARC, India
SNERDI, China
CGN, China
Mitsubishi Heavy Ind., Japan
PBMR, South Africa*
Areva, France
X-energy, USA
Gen4 (Hyperion), USA
Moltex, UK
Southern Co, USA
SINAP, China
UC Berkeley, USA
Terrestrial Energy, Canada
Martingale, USA
Northern Nuclear, Canada
PHWR – pressurised heavy water reactor
HTR – high temperature reactor
MSR – molten salt reactor
MWt – megawatts of thermal output
This table, from the World Nuclear Association, shows small reactors which
are either in use, under construction, are in advanced stages of development
or in early stages of development. Some of the latter are currently shelved.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 25
160504_AuthDB_SCHIP_AU_3rdVert.indd 1
5/3/16 10:32 AM
Liquid Fluoride Thorium Reactors
Molten Salt Reactor Experiment as run at Oak Ridge
National Laboratory, USA from 1965 to 1969.
1) Reactor vessel 2) Heat exchanger 3) Fuel pump 4) Freeze
flange 5) Thermal shield 6) Coolant pump 7) Radiator 8) Coolant
drain tank 9) Fans 10) Fuel drain tank 11) Flush tank 12)
Containment vessel 13) Freeze valve
More than half a century ago, research
into thorium reactors was conducted at the
Oak Ridge National Laboratory, USA. From
1955 to 1972 Director Alvin Weinberg and
his team envisaged liquid fluoride thorium
reactors which would produce both electricity and desalinated water.
But his research was stopped in 1974,
as the US made a policy decision to discontinue research into thorium reactors.
The experiment on the feasibility of liquid fluoride thorium reactors (LFTRs) at
Oak Ridge ran from 1965-1969 and was
known as the Molten Salt Reactor Experiment (MSRE).
It used a lithium and beryllium salt
mixture containing 233U fuel and ran at
a temperature of 600-700°C at ambient
pressure, producing around 7-8MW of
power.
The intrinsic passive safety of this reactor was demonstrated every weekend.
When the staff wanted to shut down the
reactor on Friday afternoons they simply
let the freeze plug melt and the molten
salt fuel drained out into tanks. On Monday morning, the salt was reheated and
pumped back into reactor.
The LFTR design of reactor has numerous advantages as follows:
26 Silicon Chip
• Inherently safe and self-regulating.
• Fuel meltdowns are impossible; the fuel
is already in liquid form.
• Unpressurised reactor core.
• It is difficult (if not practically impossible)
to use thorium to make nuclear weapons.
• Thorium is abundant and cheap, unlike
uranium.
• In the event of an emergency, a LFTR reactor will shut down safely and permanently
without any electrical power required or
AS
CRYSTALLISED
SOLID
AS
LIQUID
7LiF
– BeF2 – 233UF4
Fuel in the form of a molten
salt used to fuel the Molten Salt
Reactor Experiment.
operator intervention.
• If the reactor overheats it produces less
power and cools; again, it is self regulating.
• The LFTR has very high fuel “burn”, nearly
all thorium is consumed and turned into
useful energy compared with just 0.5%
in light water reactors.
• The high operating temperature of a LFTR
reactor, around 700°C results in a high
thermodynamic efficiency for steam production to drive a turbine.
• The cost of producing electricity for a
LFTR would be 25-50% less than for a
light water reactor.
Thorium is about as common as lead in
nature and much more common than uranium. Thorium is a very energy dense fuel
compared to natural uranium.
One tonne of thorium costing US$300,000
could power a 1000MW reactor for one year.
One tonne of thorium contains the same
energy as 200 tonnes of natural uranium or
3,500,000 tonnes of coal.
The molten salt solidifies at around 150C
so if a spill occurs, the salt freezes and it
can be scraped up. There is no possibility of radioactive liquid contaminating the
ground or of dangerous radioactive aerosols
being created.
siliconchip.com.au
Looking down into the containment vessel of the Molten Salt Reactor Experiment. The reactor vessel is the large
cylinder just off the 12 o’clock position and you can identify some other components by comparison with the schematic.
A thorium reactor produces about one
hundredth the radioactive waste of conventional reactors and the levels of radioactivity
drop to safe levels within a few hundred years
(compared to thousands of years compared
with conventional unprocessed waste).
While established nuclear energy companies are unlikely to be interested in thorium energy due to their major investments
in conventional nuclear infrastructure and
resources, there are ample opportunities
for entrepreneurial companies to become
involved, including Australian companies
if the appropriate legislative environment
could be created.
The US company Flibe Energy is developing a small modular reactor based on
thorium. Their initial offerings will be in the
20-50MW (electric power) range followed
by 100MW and more “utility class” units.
They will be mass produced and will first
be installed in remote US military bases. The
liquid fuel thorium reactor design is highly
scalable with power outputs possible from
one megawatt up to over a gigawatt.
Some thorium-related Australian web
sites are http://thoriumaustralia.org/ and
http://thoriumenergy.com.au/
siliconchip.com.au
Proposed design for Generation IV Molten Salt Reactor (MSR). Generation IV
reactors are a collection of advanced designs that could be demonstrated within
the next decade and commercialised from 2030. The nuclear fuel is dissolved in
a fluoride salt. Note the freeze plug and the emergency dump tanks. In the event
of a power failure, fans that keep the freeze plug frozen will stop, the freeze plug
will melt and the entire liquid fuel body will be dumped into the containment
tanks under gravity. Image source: US Department of Energy Nuclear Energy
SC
Research Advisory Committee
June 2016 27
Bringing an
laptop back
By GREG SWAIN
How could I bring myself chuck out a faulty laptop computer with
a 1.8GHz AMD quad core processor, 4GB of RAM, a 578GB HDD
and 1GB of dedicated video memory? The way out was to try to fix
it, even though I’d never torn down a laptop before. What could
possibly go wrong?
M
EMORY AND hard disk drive
(HDD) problems aside, most
laptops are simply discarded if they
develop a hardware fault. By the time
labour and parts costs are factored in,
repairs are invariably uneconomic, especially if the machine is more than a
few years old.
Sometimes though, it is possible to
repair a machine at reasonable cost
if you’re prepared to have a go at it
yourself. It’s not for the faint-hearted
but there’s nothing like a challenge,
especially if you’ve never stripped a
laptop down before.
Jan’s 4525s
Jan’s HP ProBook 4525s laptop was
only about three years old when it first
began playing up. At unpredictable
28 Silicon Chip
times, the machine would suddenly
crash and display the blue screen of
death, with the message that it had
encountered a video driver fault. At
other times, the entire screen would
pixelate and “freeze”, so it was showing all the classic symptoms of a video
system fault.
Initially, the problem occurred only
occasionally and was tolerated. However, as is the nature of this type of
fault, it got progressively worse and so
her son took the logical next step and
reinstalled the video driver. It made
no difference and eventually things
deteriorated to the point where the
machine was all but unusable.
In fact, it sometimes even refused
to boot. The HDD would start when
the power button was pressed but that
was as far as it would go, the screen
remaining blank. At other times, it
would boot normally but then crash
shortly after. And sometimes it would
work normally for a week or two before
spitting the dummy again.
It was all very frustrating and eventually Jan asked if I would take a look
at the machine.
Faulty system RAM?
My initial reaction was that it might
be a system RAM fault, since this RAM
was probably also shared with the
video system. If the RAM was faulty,
that would explain why the computer
sometimes refused to boot. And when
it did boot, it was crashing when the
faulty RAM was accessed by the video
driver.
siliconchip.com.au
HP ProBook 4525s
from the dead
Well, that was the theory but the
machine was about to shoot me down
in flames.
Jan brought the HP laptop around
to my home one Saturday morning
and we immediately set it up in the
workshop. It turned out to be a wellspecced 64-bit Windows 7 machine
with a 1.8GHz AMD Phenom II quad
core processor, 4GB of system RAM
and a 578GB HDD. It also boasted an
AMD Radeon HD5000 graphics chip
and, as I quickly discovered, 1GB of
dedicated video memory.
That meant that the system RAM
wasn’t shared with the video after all
and so my theory that faulty system
RAM was the cause of the problem
was already looking shaky. After all,
why would it indicate a video problem
when the machine blue-screened if the
system RAM was at fault?
Despite playing up like a secondhand chainsaw the night before, the
laptop was now on its best behaviour
and I was unable to directly observe
the fault. And so, with no better ideas
at this stage, I decided to try re-seating
the system RAM to see if that would
in fact cure the problem – no 2-minute
task as it turned out.
Laptops commonly hide their system RAM under a removable flap in
the base. Not so on the HP 4525s; instead, it’s hidden under the keyboard
and you have to partially dismantle
the machine to get at it. Fortunately, I’d already googled “access RAM
4525s” and this had revealed a handy
YouTube video showing how to do
just that.
It’s hardly rocket science. The first
step is to remove the battery, after
which you remove the battery compartment screws and two screws at
the rear of the machine (one at either
end). The top cover between the keysiliconchip.com.au
board and the LCD is then lifted free.
Undoing two more screws then allows
the keyboard to be slid backwards (towards the LCD) and lifted clear.
The keyboard is tethered to the
motherboard by a flat ribbon cable
but it’s easy to flip it over and place
it to one side on top of the chassis.
That done, I removed the single stick
of RAM and carefully cleaned its contacts by rubbing them lightly with an
eraser and a soft cloth. The RAM was
then clipped back into place and the
machine reassembled.
It subsequently booted OK and
we ran it through its paces. Unfortunately, the “cure” didn’t last long;
the machine had only been on for
about 10 minutes when the display
suddenly pixelated and the operating
system crashed. Back to square one,
as they say.
Jan needed to use the laptop for the
time being and so she took it with her
when she left. In the meantime, I gave
her my Memtest86 CD to run on the
machine. This gives the system RAM
a real workout and she subsequently
reported that despite running the test
for several hours, the RAM came up
squeaky-clean.
A shiny, new machine
A few more months then went
by with the machine continuing to
throw ever more frequent tantrums.
In the end, Jan decided that she’d
had enough and bought a very nice
Asus laptop with a Core i5 processor
and a full HD (1920 x 1080) display.
It came with Windows 8 but we immediately upgraded it to Windows 10.
The upgrade went without a hitch and
the new Windows 10 install worked
beautifully.
Over the next week or so, Jan managed to get the HP 4525s working for
long enough to copy all her personal
A hot-air tool was initially used in an attempt to reflow the solder joints under
the video chip but the problem was judging just how much heat to pump into it.
Although not shown here, aluminium foil was used to shield the surrounding
parts and the CPU was removed from its socket prior to applying heat.
June 2016 29
This is the faulty motherboard after it had been removed from the chassis
and stripped of its CPU, memory and heatsink/fan assembly. Replacing it
with a secondhand board bought online was a real gamble.
files onto an external HDD and then
delete everything from the machine.
It was then turned over to me to see if
anything could be done to resurrect it.
By now, my suspicions were that a
video hardware fault on the motherboard was the real cause of the problem. Either one of the video RAM chips
was faulty or, more likely, the video
GPU (graphics processing unit) chip
itself was the culprit.
A bit of research on the internet
quickly reinforced my suspicions. The
video chip is a BGA (ball grid array) device, with the solder joints arranged in
a grid underneath the chip itself. And
with constant thermal cycling, it’s not
unheard of for one or more of the solder joints to become intermittent and
cause the very symptoms prevalent in
this machine.
I also came across some pretty crude
“cures” for the problem. One involved
wrapping the laptop in a blanket while
it was running, so that it got stinking
hot – hot enough, presumably, to cure
the faulty joint. He’s got to be kidding;
the chances of that working would be
almost zero. In fact, you’d be more likely to damage other parts or start a fire!
Another silly suggestion involved
removing the motherboard and cooking it in an oven. Once again, he’s got
to be kidding.
Among the dross, there were also a
couple of reasonably sensible ideas.
One involved removing the mother30 Silicon Chip
board and placing some cooking foil
over it, with a square cut-out for the
video GPU. A heat gun is then used to
gently heat the chip, the aim being to
heat it just enough to reflow the solder
joints underneath (but avoid damaging
it), while the foil acts as a heat-shield
for the rest of the parts.
Other variations on this involved
using a specialised hot-air rework tool
or even a professional re-flow station.
I didn’t have access to the latter but I
did have a hot-air rework tool so I decided to give it a go. Of course, judging just how much heat to pump into
the graphics chip would be very much
hit or miss but what was there to lose?
The first step was figure out how to
remove the motherboard. I won’t bore
you with all the details but in summary, after removing the keyboard,
you then remove the front cover with
the touchpad, followed by the DVD
drive, the HDD and the heatsink/fan
assembly. The LCD is then removed
by undoing the screws at the hinges
and removing its attached cables at
the motherboard end, after which you
undo lots of hex-head screws and unclip the top plastic chassis frame.
It’s then just a matter of undoing a
couple of screws and freeing various
cables before removing the motherboard from the chassis.
Once the motherboard was out, I
took the precaution of removing both
the CPU and the RAM module and
placing them in an anti-static bag.
I then fired up the hot-air tool and
gently warmed the graphics chip and
surrounding area before really giving
the graphics chip the treatment.
It was impossible to know just how
much to give it so I simply decided to
“heat the hell out of it”. After all, it had
to get hot enough for the solder joints
under it to reflow, otherwise I would
be wasting my time. The motherboard
was then allowed to cool down, after
which I patiently reassembled the
computer, plugged it in and optimistically pressed the power button.
Nothing! Absolutely <at>#$%&! nothing! Not even the power LED would
turn on. It was bricked!
There was only one way to fix this
computer now and that was to replace
the motherboard. Unfortunately, the
cheapest (secondhand) board I could
get from a supplier on AliExpress at
the time was about $120.00. I discussed the matter with Jan and we
both decided that it wasn’t worth it,
especially as there were no ironclad
guarantees that the transplant would
be successful.
I couldn’t throw it out
Now I’m normally a pretty good
“chucker” but somehow I just couldn’t
bring myself to chuck this HP 4525s
out. In the back of my mind, I kept
thinking that maybe I could pick one
up with a broken screen on eBay for
next to nothing and transplant the
motherboard. Or maybe the motherboards listed on AliExpress would
come down in price.
And so the machine sat in one
corner of my workbench for several
months while I kept my eyes open.
Well, good things come to those who
wait; the dollar rose, the prices drifted
down and I eventually spotted one
on AliExpress for $99.00 including
delivery.
I didn’t want to die wondering, so
I ordered it. If the transplant didn’t
work out, I would simply keep quiet
and wear it. On the other hand, if the
transplant was successful, I could
boast about how clever I was!
The replacement motherboard turn
ed up a week later and I wasted no time
stripping the machine down and swapping it into place. This also involved
swapping over the CPU and RAM, the
heatsink/fan assembly (and associated
thermal pads), the audio input socket
module and the WiFi module.
siliconchip.com.au
While I was at it, I also replaced the
on-board lithium back-up battery. The
original battery was now about five
years old and I didn’t want to risk having to strip the machine down again in
a few months time to change it.
It was then just a matter of reassembling the machine. This took no more
than about 40 minutes and when it was
done, I slid the battery into place and
hopefully pressed the power button.
Nothing! Absolutely nothing!
But wait – maybe the battery was
flat; after all, Jan had mentioned that
the battery didn’t last long in use and
this one hadn’t been charged for several months.
I connected the laptop’s power supply to the mains, plugged it into the
machine and hit the power button
again. This time, the power LED lit, the
HDD whirred into life and the machine
booted straight into Windows 7. And
not an error message in sight!
What’s more, it seemed perfectly stable and there were no tantrums, even
after it had been running for several
hours. During this time, I rebooted the
machine several times to test it and it
started each time without problems. I
also entered in my WiFi set-up details,
so that the machine had internet access but although everything worked,
I wasn’t out of the woods yet.
Hairy goat
Where does the expression “it runs
like a hairy goat” come from? I dunno
but this laptop sure ran like one. It
wasn’t surprising really, as it had been
running like a hairy goat with the old
motherboard.
The problem was that a huge amount
of software had been installed on
it over the years by different family
members and the operating system
had become mangled. I tried running
CCleaner and even ran CCleaner’s registry checker but it made little difference. The machine ran reliably but did
so very slowly.
A clean install of the operating
system was clearly required and the
best way to do that would be to first
upgrade the operating system (OS) to
Windows 10. Once the upgrade was
in place and had been activated (this
happens automatically if you have
an internet connection), I could then
reformat the HDD and do a clean Windows 10 install.
As an aside, once a Windows 10
upgrade has been activated, Microsiliconchip.com.au
Back in action:
the HP 4525s
is a reasonably
quick machine
that’s capable of
running a range
of applications.
A fresh install of
Windows 10 got
it running at full
throttle again.
soft has the hardware details for your
machine and you can then do a clean
install without having to enter a product key. What’s more, Windows 10 will
then automatically activate again once
you’ve set up an internet connection.
I had previously downloaded Windows 10 64-bit using Microsoft’s
Media Creation Tool and had burnt it
to a DVD. However, when I attempted
to run this, it would only get about
23% of the way into upgrade before
hanging.
From past experience, I knew that
out-of-date programs can stop the upgrade process, so I uninstalled as many
applications as I could, cleaned up the
registry and tried again. That did the
trick – the Windows 10 upgrade now
installed without a hitch.
As expected, it still ran like a hairy
goat and so, after checking that Windows 10 had activated (right-click
“This PC” and click “Properties”), I
booted from the Windows 10 DVD,
reformatted the HDD and did a clean
install. Once again, it all went without
a hitch and I was looking at the new
desktop after about 30 minutes.
This utterly transformed the machine. Whereas before it had been a
slug, it was now fast and responsive,
in keeping with its specifications. The
machine was back from the dead and
it was working flawlessly with one
exception.
When I looked at the System Properties dialog, it indicated a missing
HP AHCI driver. This driver parks
the HDD’s heads when the machine is
powered down and is vital in a portable device such as this. Retrieving and
installing the indicated driver from
HP’s website soon solved that problem.
Jan prefers Google Chrome, so I
then downloaded and installed that,
along with Libre Office, Thunderbird
(for email), CCleaner and VLC Media
Player. I didn’t bother with a third-party anti-virus application. Windows 10
comes with Windows Defender built in
and this offers basic protection.
If you want something better, there
are plenty of commercial and freeware
anti-virus applications available. One
of the leading freeware apps is “avast!
Free Antivirus” but there are lots
of others to choose from (see www.
snapfiles.com/freeware/security/fwvirus.html)
And that was it. The machine now
serves as Jan’s “upstairs computer”
and has proven to be completely reliable. And Windows 10 runs like it was
made for the machine.
So my gamble on the new motherboard paid off but was it all really
worth it? Well, yes and no! Yes, because
I really enjoyed the challenge of getting
it going again and for an outlay of just
$100 it’s a really good machine. And
no, because if this had been a commercial exercise, it would have been
completely uneconomic by the time
six or seven hours of labour had been
SC
added onto the parts costs.
June 2016 31
Add bling to your hifi amplifier!
Pt.1: By Nicholas Vinen
100dB Stereo LED
Audio Level/VU Meter
Give your hifi system WOW factor with this spectacular stereo
VU meter. It uses 80 high-brightness SMD LEDs to give any stereo
amplifier/mixer a highly colourful dual-bargraph display which
simultaneously shows the average audio signal level plus peak
levels. And it can display signal ranges up to a whopping 100dB.
Y
EARS AGO, some big and expensive stereo power amplifiers sported large dual VU meters to indicate
the power levels in both channels. But
while they looked quite impressive,
they were a bit of a gimmick since their
analog meter movements could only
display signal averages. They certainly
weren’t fast enough to display the peak
signal levels which would have been
a big advantage.
And of course, professional audio
mixing desks also typically have VU
metering but these days it is usually
based on LED arrays which show average and peak signal levels, just like
this new SILICON CHIP design!
The SILICON CHIP Stereo LED VU Meter uses no less than 80 high-brightness
SMD LEDs to give a dual bargraph dis32 Silicon Chip
play of the average audio signal level,
with dots indicating the peak levels. It
can be configured to display a dynamic
range between 40dB and 100dB, depending on your application. It’s suitable for monitoring line level signals
or power amplifier outputs.
Whether or not you actually need to
add this meter to a piece of equipment,
once you see it in action, you’ll want to
fit it in anyway! We’ve put a video of it
operating at the following URL so you
can see for yourself: www.siliconchip.
com.au/Videos/StereoVUMeter
If you are a keen hifi enthusiast, this
VU meter can show you how much
headroom you have from your audio
amplifier, ie, it can show how many
more decibels it is capable of delivering before clipping and this is indi-
cated with the peak dot display.
It can also be used when recording
or mixing, to ensure that the incoming audio signal(s) are consistent with
each other and none of them are going
to overload and cause excessive distortion or loss of dynamic range.
One important feature of an audio
level meter is that it should update
relatively fast, so you can see the dynamic nature of the signal, but not so
fast that your eye can’t track it. Traditional “VU Meters” were designed
with a response time of 300ms (to
99%), to give a reasonable impression
of signal loudness but also because the
needle could only move so fast.
Since this meter uses digital technology, it can show the peak and average level simultaneously and the peak
siliconchip.com.au
+3.3V
LEFT
INPUT
CON1
+1.65V
x 23
AN9
x 23
RC7
AN2
22k
RC8
RC6
AN0
RC5
RC4
AN11
+3.3V
RC3
RC2
RIGHT
INPUT
CON2
VR1
BRIGHTNESS
+1.65V
RC1
RC0
(HPF)
(HPF)
22k
LPF
x 23
AN1
VDD
(8 MODE LEDs TOTAL)
+3.3V
+3.3V
A
LED81
A
λ LED82
40dB
A
λ LED84
80dB
K
+3.3V
A
λ LED83
60dB
K
+3.3V
λ
100dB
K
S1
RB3
RA7
RB4
RA10
RB5
RB12
RB6
RA9
RB10
RB7
RB11
K
RB2
RB8
RB9
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED3
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED2
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
A7
A6
A5
A4
A3
A2
A1
A
(80 LEDs
TOTAL
IN MATRIX)
AN3
22k
LED4
A8
IC1
PIC32
AN10
x 23
LED34
LPF
A10
A9
LED33
22k
RC9
LED32
(HPF)
LED31
10-BIT
ANALOGTO-DIGITAL
CONVERTER
(HPF)
LED1
A
K
K
D
Q1
K1
K2
G
D
S
Q2
K3
K4
K5
K6
K7
G
D
S
G
Q3
D
S
K8
G
S
S2
Fig.1: a simplified circuit showing how the Stereo VU Meter works. The audio signals (left & right channels) first pass
through a high-pass filter/attenuator, followed by an active low-pass filter and two gain stages. The signals before and
after the gain stages are then fed to microcontroller IC1 which does the peak and average calculations, then drives a
multiplexed LED display using outputs RB2-RB9 to control eight cathode-driving Mosfets (Q1-Q8) and outputs RC0RC9 to drive the LED anodes directly.
level can have a fast rise time and a
slow fall time. The fast rise-time allows the circuit to “catch” those very
fast and short peaks, while the slow
fall time allows you to better see them
when they occur.
For purists, we’ve implemented a
VU-style meter mode so you can stick
with the traditional 300ms rise/fall
time averaging if that is what you want.
The two bargraphs, one for each stereo channel, consist of 40 individual
LEDs. With a dynamic range of 40dB,
that means that each LED lights for a
1dB increase in signal level. If you select the 60dB range, that gives 1.5dB/
LED; the 80dB range gives 2dB/LED;
and the 100dB range, 2.5dB/LED.
These are SMD LEDs with rectangular lenses roughly 2mm square – and
they are incredibly bright pin-points.
An on-board pot can be set reduce the
brightness for a darker room!
We’ve used a green/yellow/amber/
red colour scheme. The colour shifts
simply give a warning that you are approaching the clipping level.
A pushbutton can select one of four
siliconchip.com.au
full-scale signal levels: -10dBV, 0dBV,
+4dBu or +7dBV. Different equipment
will have different line levels and one
of these will suit most devices: -10dBV
(316mV RMS) for some battery-powered consumer equipment such as
iPods and mobile phones, 0dBV (1V
RMS) for other consumer equipment,
+4dBu (1.228V RMS) for some professional gear and +7dBV (2.24V RMS)
for CD, DVD and Blu-ray players and
some other equipment.
You can make fine or coarse adjustments to these levels or set your own
levels based on reference signals fed
into the unit.
The unit runs from a 12-15V DC supply so it can be powered from a small
plugpack, 12V lead-acid battery or a
low-voltage internal rail in an amplifier or similar equipment. It only draws
about 50-150mA when operating, depending on the LED brightness setting.
The PCB includes RCA input sockets and a DC socket for power, so it can
be used in its own case with a clear lid
or incorporated into another piece of
equipment and hard-wired in place.
The metering circuit’s signal-tonoise ratio is good enough to allow you
to use the 100dB range with a +7dBV
reference level and use the whole
range of the device. The 100dB range
can also be used with a lower reference level but you will need to use
the noise nulling feature to get a blank
display with no signal. This feature
is especially useful to subtract source
noise (eg, from the driving equipment)
from the display when operating in the
higher dynamic range settings.
Other features include: software
adjustments to cancel out variation
in brightness between different colour LEDs; peak+average, peak-only
and average-only modes; non-volatile
mode and calibration settings; and
mode indicator LEDs (see specifications panel for more details).
Principle of operation
Fig.1 is a simplified circuit diagram
which gives an overview of the operation of the unit. It’s based on 32-bit
microcontroller IC1 which operates
at 40MHz and incorporates a 10-bit
June 2016 33
Features & Specifications
•
•
Display: two rows of 40 SMD 3216 (1206 imperial) LEDs
Input signal: up to 2.33V RMS (+7.36dBV) or higher with changed resistors (eg,
to suit power amplifier outputs)
•
•
•
Frequency response: 5Hz-20kHz, -3dB (see Fig.2)
•
Meter range: selectable 40dB, 60dB, 80dB or 100dB (1dB/LED, 1.5dB/LED,
2dB/LED or 2.5dB/LED)
•
Reference level: selectable -10dBV (316mV RMS), 0dBV (1V RMS), 4dBu
(1.228V RMS), 7dBV (2.24V RMS) or custom levels (per-channel)
•
•
Power supply: 12-15V DC, ~50-150mA
•
•
Inputs: RCA sockets for signals, 2.1mm or 2.5mm ID DC socket for power
Input impedance: approximately 37kΩ
Modes: peak+average (dot/bar), average only (bar), peak only (bar), VU-style
(peak+average or average only)
Brightness adjustment: 10-100% via potentiometer (onboard trimpot or chassismounted)
Other features: LED brightness matching for different colour LEDs in display, external/internal noise nulling, peak/average calculation period adjustment, supply reverse polarity protection
analog-to-digital converter (ADC) with
an input multiplexer. Seven of the
analog inputs are used.
The two 40-LED bar displays (80
LEDs in total) are multiplexed in eight
groups, each group of 10 sharing a
common cathode which is driven by
one of eight N-channel Mosfets Q1-Q8,
which are in turn controlled by the
microcontroller’s outputs RB2-RB9.
The LED anodes are driven directly by
outputs RC0-RC9. Only a 4x4 portion
of the 8x10 LED matrix is shown but
you can see the general arrangement.
The eight indicator LEDs (LEDs8188, four shown in Fig.1) are driven
directly at their cathodes from eight
microcontroller outputs. The anodes
connect to the 3.3V supply via currentlimiting resistors.
Actually, there are no current-limiting resistors for the matrixed LEDs, as
such. Instead, their current is limited
by the internal impedance of the transistors which drive the micro’s output
pins, in combination with a softwarelimited on-time/duty cycle.
This results in a current drive of
around 1.2mA/LED at full brightness,
for a total LED bar current of around
100mA. Since this is split between 10
anode drive pins, that means around
10mA per pin. (IC1 has an “Absolute
Maximum” rating of 15mA/pin and an
overall limit of 200mA).
The analog signals are fed into
CON1 & CON2 at left. The circuit is
34 Silicon Chip
designed for line level signals with a
maximum level ranging from around
316mV RMS (-10dBV) up to 2.33V
RMS (+7.35dBV), to suit most consumer equipment and also some professional audio gear. The input divider
resistors can be changed to allow much
higher signal amplitudes, eg, to suit the
outputs of a power amplifier. Further
adjustments in full-scale level can be
made using the pushbutton interface.
The signals are AC-coupled and attenuated to no more than 1.16V RMS
(3.3V peak-to-peak) using a resistive
divider. This AC coupling serves as
a high-pass filter (HPF) to remove DC
and very low frequency signals (<5Hz).
Note that there is another HPF at the
ADC inputs of IC1.
There is also an active low-pass
3-pole filter inserted immediately after the resistive divider, built around
a dual op amp (for both channels) with
a -3dB point of 20kHz. It provides a fast
roll-off, with around 20dB of attenuation by 40kHz and also incorporates
RF filtering. The overall effect of the
low-pass and high-pass filtering on the
frequency response is shown in Fig.2.
Analog-to-digital conversion
The signals from the output of the
low-pass filters are fed directly to a pair
of analog inputs on IC1. These signals
are also amplified by 23 times and the
amplified signal is fed to another pair
of analog inputs. This signal is further
amplified by another 23 times (ie, 529
times total) and fed to a third pair of
analog inputs. The seventh analog input is used to sense the position of the
brightness pot.
The micro samples all seven inputs,
with the six signal inputs sampled
continuously at around 40kHz and the
brightness pot sampled every millisecond or so. For each channel, the software uses whichever signal gives the
most accurate reading, ie, the unamplified input for higher level signals and
one of the amplified inputs for lower
level signals. This greatly improves its
dynamic range, given that it only has
a 10-bit ADC.
A perfectly noiseless 10-bit ADC
would give a dynamic range of around
20log10(210) = 60dB. CD-quality audio
uses 16 bits and has a dynamic range
of 20log10(216) = 96dB, so it is desirable for our VU meter to have a similar
dynamic range.
We could have used an external
ADC however these mostly come in
fine-pitch SMD packages and can be a
little expensive. Instead, we have used
the two gain stages described above,
in combination with software input
switching depending on signal level,
to effectively provide the extra bits
needed to achieve a 100dB dynamic
range while only using the existing
10-bit ADC.
Two momentary pushbuttons, S1
and S2, are used to configured the unit.
These can be used to change a variety
of settings such as the meter range,
reference level, peak/averaging mode,
level calibration, brightness calibration and so on. When pressed, S1 pulls
input RB10 low while S2 pulls RB11
low. These are held high by internal
pull-up resistors which are enabled by
the firmware.
In essence, the circuit concept is
relatively simple but a lot of the work,
including the peak and RMS calculations, averaging, display multiplexing
and so on are done by IC1’s firmware.
Full circuit description
The full circuit diagram for the Stereo VU Meter is shown in Fig.3. The
left and right channel input circuitry
is identical so we will describe the left
channel only, with part numbers for
the right channel in brackets.
From CON1 (CON2), the signal is
AC-coupled via a 2.2µF ceramic capacitor and DC biased to +5.6V via a
22kΩ resistor. The 5.6V rail is half the
siliconchip.com.au
11.2V op amp supply, allowing the signal to swing symmetrically between
the op amp supply rails (ie, between
0V and 11.2V).
This 22kΩ bias resistor forms a divider in combination with the input
series resistor, attenuating the input
signal by half while keeping the input
impedance relatively high at around
37kΩ. As explained later, these resistor values can be changed to allow the
unit to handle higher signal levels.
As stated earlier, the 2.2µF capacitor
and 22kΩ series resistor form a highpass filter for the input signal. Further
high-pass filtering is also performed
by the software.
Dual SMD Schottky diode D2 (D3)
clips the input signal, should it go
below ground or above the 11.2V op
amp supply rail. The BAT54S has a
low forward voltage of around 0.3V,
so it will conduct before the junctions
in the op amp's inputs.
Low-pass filter
The following active 3-pole lowpass filter is built around an NE5532D
low-noise op amp IC2a (IC2b). The
first section of this filter, consisting of
a 3.9kΩ series resistor and 680pF capacitor, also serves to attenuate much
higher frequency signals (eg, AM radio) which may have been picked up
by the signal leads.
This filter is a special case of the
Sallen-Key active low-pass filter (see
www.beis.de/Elektronik/Filter/Act3PoleLP.html) which gives a -18dB/
octave roll-off using a single active
device (in this case, an op amp). The
values were chosen carefully, to give
a near-flat bandpass response (ie, Butterworth characteristic) using E24-series resistors and E12-series capacitors
(see Fig.2).
Note that the 3.9kΩ resistor was
chosen with the 11kΩ impedance of
the preceding divider being taken into
account. In other words, the resistance between the input and the 680pF
capacitor should be 14.9kΩ; the two
22kΩ resistors are effectively in parallel when considering the impedance
feeding the RC filter, hence we subtracted 11kΩ from 14.9kΩ to get 3.9kΩ.
The filtered output from pin 1 of
IC2a (pin 7 of IC2b) is fed to analog input AN0 (AN1) of microcontroller IC1
via a 2.2µF capacitor and 1kΩ series
resistor. This resistor, in combination
with dual Schottky diode D4 (D7), prevents the voltage at the micro’s input
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: frequency response for the analog portion of the circuitry. The steep (-18dB/
octave) roll-off of the low-pass filter can be seen, with virtually no attenuation below
15kHz, -3dB at 20kHz, -10dB at 30kHz and around -20dB at 40kHz (not visible). The
bass roll-off is from two passive high-pass RC filters and gives a -3dB point of 5Hz
and -10dB at around 1.6Hz.
from going below -0.3V or above +3.6V.
In addition, a 22kΩ resistor provides
a DC bias of 1.65V, ie, the halfway
point of the micro’s 3.3V supply. This
keeps the signal within the ADC’s input range of 0-3.3V for input signals
of up to 2.33V RMS (keeping in mind
the 2:1 input attenuation).
While the micro has internal clamp
diodes to protect its inputs and it might
seem like D4 & D7 are overkill, we discovered an interesting “feature” of the
PIC32 series – if you drive an analog
input pin beyond its supply rails, even
within its input current rating, the
chip may reset! Hence these clamp
diodes are mandatory and as before,
Schottky diodes are used because they
will conduct before the IC’s internal
semiconductor junctions.
Gain stages
IC3a (IC3b) and IC4a (IC4b) are both
configured as non-inverting amplifiers
with a gain of 23, set by the ratio of
the 22kΩ and 1kΩ feedback resistors.
A 100pF capacitor across the 22kΩ
resistor rolls off its frequency response,
reducing high-frequency noise gain
and making the whole circuit quieter.
To achieve the 100dB dynamic range
relative to 7dBV (2.24V RMS), we need
less than 22.4µV RMS input-referred
noise throughout the entire system.
That is why we’re using NE5532 lownoise op amps.
The total gain of the system from the
input to analog input AN9 (AN10) is
0.5 x 23 x 23 = 264.5 times. A -100dB
(2.24µV) input signal will thus be amplified to 6mV RMS. The 10-bit ADC
can sense voltage steps of 3.3V ÷ 1024
= 3.2mV. So this level of signal can be
(just) measured by IC1.
Driving the LEDs
Driving the 80 LEDs in the VU meter
takes up a total of 18 output pins. Each
bar of 40 LEDs is broken up into four
groups of 10 and the cathodes of the
LEDs in each group are tied together.
These cathodes are driven by one of
logic-level Mosfets Q1-Q8 which are
in turn driven from microcontroller
outputs RB2-RB9 (pins 23, 24, 33, 4144 and 1 of IC1 respectively). Because
these Mosfets have such a small gate
charge, no extra circuitry is required.
Each Mosfet is switched on in turn for
around 1.6ms.
When Q1 is switched on (ie, pin 23
of IC1 [RB2] is high), LED1-LED10 can
be lit when their respective anodes are
driven high. The anodes are driven by
outputs RC0-RC9 of micro IC1 (pins
25-27, 36-38 & 2-4 respectively).
June 2016 35
+11.2V
+11.2V
100nF
X7R
D2
BAT54S
LEFT
INPUT
CON1
100nF
X7R
+3.3V
X7R
2
22k
3
16V
X7R
1nF
680pF
50V
C0G
50V
C0G
22k
8
3
1
IC2a
2
20k
22k
3.9k
8
3
1
2.2µF
2
4
22k
22k
100pF
100pF
50V C0G
50V C0G
1k
D4 BAT54S 1k
3
IC2, IC3, IC4: NE5532D
5
1
22k
1k
+3.3V
2
1nF
50V
C0G
5
5
7
IC2b
6
20k
22k
50V
C0G
22k
+5.6V
2
1
+1.65V
2
3
680pF
D5 BAT54S
+5.6V
D3
BAT54S
3.9k
1k
2.2µF
3
3
+11.2V
16V
X7R
1k
22k
2.2µF
22k
2
1
4
2.2µF
50V
C0G
1
2.2µF
2
D6 BAT54S
1
IC4a
100pF
+5.6V
22k
8
3
1
IC3a
4
+1.65V
RIGHT
INPUT
CON2
100nF
7
IC3b
6
6
D9 BAT54S
7
IC4b
2.2µF
100pF
50V
C0G
22k
100pF
100pF
50V C0G
50V C0G
1k
22k
2.2µF
22k
+1.65V
1k
D7 BAT54S 1k
+5.6V
22k
1k
2.2µF
3
D8 BAT54S
+5.6V
2
1
+1.65V
22k
1k
+5.6V
1
2
1
3
3
2
+3.3V
+3.3V
VR1
10k
4x1k
A
A
+11.2V
8
2.2µF
5
16V
X7R
IN
OUT
REG2
MIC5201YM
ADJ
EN
GND NC NC NC
3 4 6 7
1
1.5k
2
10Ω
A
1k
2.2µF
16V
X7R
12k
A
+5.6V
K
LED81
λ
60dB
λ
80dB
+
D1
SS14
TPV+
6.3V
X5R
K
4x1k
A
A
K
33Ω 1W
q
CON3
TPG1
2.2µF
16V
X7R
TP3.3V
REG1
MCP1703-3302E/DB
1
IN
OUT
GND GND
2
4
A
A
+3.3V
3
LED85
λ
-10dBV
3.9k
LED86
LED87
λ
0dBV
λ
7dBV
K
K
K
+1.65V
6.3V
X5R
47µF
6.3V
X5R
BZX84-C5V6
SS14
SC
λ
4dBu
LED88
K
10µF
3.9k
2016
K
K
A
12VDC
POWER
λ
100dB
K
47µF
ZD1
BZX84 A
C5V6
λ
40dB
LED82
LED83
LED84
DIGITAL STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
K
A
K
A
(NC)
Fig.3: full circuit for the Stereo VU Meter. This shows the full 80-LED matrix at right, along with the power supply and
details of the analog circuitry. Dual Schottky diodes D2 & D3, in combination with the 22kΩ series resistors, protect IC2
from excessive input signal levels while D4-D9 (with 1kΩ series resistors) prevent IC1’s internal input clamp diodes
36 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
RIGHT CHANNEL
LEFT CHANNEL
RPC6/PMA1/RC6
RPC5/PMA3/RC5
RPC4/PMA4/RC4
RPC3/RC3
AN8/RPC2/RC2
AN7/RPC1/RC1
AN6/RPC0/RC0
RS529
14
RS23
22
RS1
20
5
A10
4
A9
3
A8
2
A7
38
A6
37
A5
36
A4
27
A3
26
A2
25
A1
AN10/RB14/RPB14
LED7
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED4
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED3
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED2
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
2
AN1/VREFq/RA1
8
5
CON4
A
S1
AN11/RB13/RPB13
LED1
S2
A
23
K1
24
K2
33
K3
PGED3/RPB5/PMD7/RB5 41
K4
42
K5
43
K6
44
K7
1
K8
AN4/RPB2/RB2
AN5/RPB3/RB3
35
SOSCI/RPB4/RB4
RA7/PMA7/TCK
RA10/PMA10/TMS/PGED4
RB12/PMD0/AN12
PGEC3/RPB6/PMD6/RB6
RPB7/PMD5/RB7
RA9/TDI/RPA9/PMA9
RPB8/PMD4/RB8
RPB9/SDA1/PMD3/RB9
34
32
31
30
λ
LED78
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED77
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED76
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED75
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED74
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED73
λ
λ
λ
λ
LED72
λ
λ
K
λ
λ
LED79
K
G
A
A
λ
λ
K
LED71
K
Q1
D
S
G
Q2
D
S
G
Q3
D
S
G
Q4
D
S
G
RA4/SOSCO/RPA4
Q5
D
S
Q6
RA8/TDO/RPA8/PMA8
G
RA3/OSC2/CLKO/RPA3
VCAP
RA2/OSC1/CLKI/RPA2
AVSS
16
D2qD9: BAT54S
3
1
λ
K
D
10
λ
A
λ
4
9
TPG1
12
λ
LED40
3
IC1
PIC32MX170
PIC3
2MX170
qF256D
13
λ
LED80
1
RB11/RPB11/PMD1/PGEC2
11
λ
ICSP
RB10/RPB10/PMD2/PGED2
BR
λ
λ
λ
18
AN3/RPB1/RB1/PGEC1
TPBR
λ
LED50
RPC7/PMA0/RC7
λ
LED39
LED49
RPC8/PMA5/RC8
K
LED8
λ
LED38
LED48
RPC9/PMA6/RC9
AN0/VREF+/RA0
λ
λ
LED37
LED47
19
MCLR
AN9/RB15/RPB15
AN2/RPB0/RB0/PGED1
λ
λ
K
LED31
LED41
LS1
X7R
40
VDD
28
VDD
λ
LED6
21
17
AVDD
LED9
LED5
15
X7R
A
10k
100nF
K
A
λ
LED36
LED46
100nF
X7R
LS23
λ
λ
K
100nF
LS529
λ
LED35
LED45
10Ω
λ
LED34
LED44
LED10
A
LED33
LED43
A
LED32
LED42
+3.3V
2
VSS
6
VSS
29
VSS
39
REG2, IC2qIC4
8
7
6.3V
X5R
4
1
G
10µF
CATHODE
BAND
A
D
S
Q7
D
S
G
Q1-Q8: 2N7002P
LEDS
K
D
G
S
Q8
S
MCP1703T-3302E/DB
4 (GND)
(IN) 1
(GND) 2 3 (OUT)
from conducting, depending on the signal applied. Also shown in more detail on this diagram are the three different
signal bias levels of 0V (GND), 1.65V (half supply for 3.3V) and 5.6V (half supply for 11.2V). The amplified and filtered
input signals are fed to microcontroller IC1 which drives the LED bargraphs via Mosfets Q1-Q8.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 37
Simulating VU Meter Response
The adjacent photo shows an original
VU meter. According to Wikipedia: “The
original VU meter is a passive electromechanical device, namely a 200µA DC
d’Arsonval movement ammeter fed from
a full-wave copper-oxide rectifier mounted
within the meter case. The mass of the
needle causes a relatively slow response,
which in effect integrates the signal, with a rise time of 300ms. 0 VU is equal to
+4dBu, or 1.228V RMS across a 600-ohm load . . .”
The SILICON CHIP Stereo LED VU Meter does not attempt to exactly replicate the
operation of a VU meter. For example, the copper-oxide rectifier causes a VU meter
to be inaccurate for low-level signals and thus makes a reading below -20dB difficult. We’re still using proper RMS calculations and showing readings on a range of
at least 40dB (depending on the range setting of the unit).
However, we have been able to implement a simulation of the ballistic properties of
the VU meter needle in our software. When a 1kHz sinewave is applied to a standard VU
meter which had previously had no signal applied, it should reach 99% of the final reading in 300ms and have an ultimate overshoot of between 1% and 1.5% of the reading.
We’ve achieved this with a simple needle inertia simulation that tracks the needle
position and velocity along with a target position (based on the current RMS reading), an acceleration coefficient and a damping coefficient. These two coefficients
were tuned to achieve the required response, as stated above.
The cathodes of LEDs81-88 are driven by microcontroller outputs RA9,
RB12, RA10, RA7, RA8, RA3, RA2 and
RA4 respectively (pins 35, 10, 12, 13,
32, 31, 30 and 34). The 1kΩ currentlimiting resistors result in a drive of
around 0.5mA each.
Controls
Tactile pushbutton switch S1 is used
to cycle through the available meter
ranges (and performs other functions
when pressed and held or pressed
in combination with S2). Similarly,
switch S2 cycles through the four different reference levels. Their associated input pins, RB10 and RB11 (pins
8 & 9), are also used for programming
and debugging IC1. There is no conflict
as long as neither switch is pressed
when the in-circuit serial programming (ICSP) tool plugged into CON5
is being used.
Brightness pot VR1 forms a voltage
divider across the 3.3V supply and
the voltage at its wiper is sensed via
analog input AN11 (pin 11) of IC1. The
brightness is controlled by adjusting
the LED matrix anode drive period.
Power supply
The power supply is relatively simple and uses only linear regulators but
its design is critical to achieve the stat38 Silicon Chip
ed performance. 12-15V DC is applied
to socket CON3, or else wired directly
between TPV+ and TPG1.
Schottky diode D1 provides reverse
polarity protection and drops less than
0.4V. The 11.6-14.6V DC at its cathode
is fed to two resistors. One is a 33Ω 1W
SMD type which connects to the input
of 3.3V low drop-out (LDO) regulator
REG1. This is in a relatively large SOT223 4-pin package that is soldered to
a considerable copper area which includes thermal vias to conduct heat to
the back of the board.
With a 14.5V input, 3.3V output
and maximum load of 125mA, these
components dissipate (14.5V – 3.3V)
x 0.125A = 1.4W. Around 0.5W will
be dissipated in the resistor with the
remaining 0.9W in the regulator, hence
the copper plane heatsinking on both
sides along with thermal vias under
the regulator package.
SMD multi-layer ceramic capacitors
are used bypass the input and filter the
output of REG1. As well as supplying
the microcontroller and LEDs, the 3.3V
output flows through a pair of seriesconnected 3.9kΩ resistors to generate
the 1.65V rail, which is bypassed with
a 47µF capacitor. This is important
since the varying current demand on
the 3.3V rail as LEDs are switched
causes ripple and we don’t want this
to couple into the input signal path.
The 11.6-14.6V at the cathode of D1
also flows to adjustable low dropout
regulator REG2 (MIC5201). The 10Ω
series resistor forms a low-pass filter
in combination with its 2.2µF input
bypass capacitor to reduce the amount
of ripple reaching REG2. It also causes
a voltage drop of up to 0.25V.
REG2’s output is set at 11.15V (nominal) by the 12kΩ and 1.5kΩ resistors.
REG2’s minimum input voltage is
around 11.6V – 0.25V = 11.35V. With
a load current of only 25mA, REG2’s
dropout voltage is less than 150mV, so
it should stay in regulation. This is important since REG2 exists to eliminate
ripple on the op amp supplies; even
with a 100dB CMRR (common mode
rejection ratio), several hundred millivolts of ripple can have a significant
impact on the overall signal-to-noise
ratio of the system.
The 5.6V half-supply reference for
the op amps is derived from the 11.2V
supply with a 1kΩ resistor and 5.6V
zener diode ZD1, which is bypassed
with another 47µF capacitor. This further attenuates any ripple which may
make it through the regulator.
Microcontroller IC1 has three 100nF
ceramic supply bypass capacitors,
with its AVCC supply filtered by one
of these in combination with a 10Ω
series resistor. A 10µF ceramic capacitor between pin 7 (VCAP) and ground
provides an output filter for its internal
2.5V core regulator, while a 10kΩ pullup between the 3.3V rail and pin 18
(MCLR-bar) prevents spurious resets.
PCB layout
The PCB design is crucially important to achieve the desired performance level. The relatively compact
PCB means that the switched LED
supply lines inevitably run somewhat
near the front end and the tiny amount
of signal that couples in is picked up
and amplified by the op amps. This
is mostly ignored by the software (as
explained later) but it does make the
noise level in the left channel slightly
worse than the right (but still below
-100dB) due to its greater proximity
to the LEDs.
The most critical part of the layout,
as is typical, is the ground track routing. While all points connected to
ground in the circuit must be joined
together, there are a large number of
ways this could be achieved, many of
which would cause digitally switched
siliconchip.com.au
currents to cause voltage shifts across
different parts of the analog front-end,
ruining the performance.
The grounds for input sockets CON1
& CON2, regulators REG1 & REG2 (and
their output filter capacitors but NOT
input bypass capacitors) and the bottom end of the two half-rail bias generators are connected together, then
brought back to pin 16 of IC1 (AGND).
This pin is also used as the negative
reference voltage for the ADC. This
routing means that the analog grounds
and half-supply rails have very little
AC voltage between them, as little current flows through these tracks and
that which does is linearly proportional to the input signal.
AGND is connected to GND within
IC1, and also by tracks running under
it, so ultimately these pins all connect
to GND. The op amp negative supply
pins and their bypass capacitors are
connected back to the ground pin of
REG2 and the more-or-less constant
supply current flows from there back
to AGND and on to the main ground
network.
Firmware operation
While the software is conceptually
simple, it has quite a few modes and
features. Its three main tasks are to
continually sample the analog inputs,
perform the average and peak calculations based on the results and drive the
multiplexed LED display. The first and
last are “real time” tasks so they are
interrupt driven, with priority given
to the LED multiplexing, as any delays could cause the display to flicker.
The LED multiplexing is achieved
using three of the five 16-bit timers
internal to IC1: Timer1, Timer2 and
Timer3. IC1 runs at 40MHz, in order to
perform the required calculations fast
enough to provide a rapid display update (around 40 updates per second).
Timer1 is set up to trigger an interrupt every 65,536 (216) clock cycles,
ie, every 65,536 ÷ 40MHz = 1.6384ms.
Since there are eight cathodes to cycle
through, this gives a display refresh
rate of 76Hz.
When this interrupt is triggered,
the code branches to the Timer1 interrupt handler, which switches the
LED anode drive outputs (RC0-RC11)
low, then cycles the next Mosfet drive
output (RB2-RB9) high. It then calculates which anodes to drive to light
the appropriate LEDs and brings some
combination of RC0-RC11 high.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, code
01104161, 177 x 75.5mm
1 white switched PCB-mount RCA
socket (CON1)
1 red switched PCB-mount RCA
socket (CON2)
1 PCB-mount switched DC socket,
2.1 or 2.5mm inner diameter
(CON3)
1 5-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (optional, to program IC1) (CON4)
2 PCB-mount mini tactile switches
(S1,S2) (Jaycar SP0611)
1 10kΩ SMD trimpot, TC33X type
(VR1) (element14 1689863)
5 PC stakes (optional; see text)
1 12-15V DC 150mA+ power
supply
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX150F128D-I/PT or
PIC32MX170F256D-I/PT 32-bit
microcontroller programmed
with 0110416A.hex, TQFP-44
(IC1)
3 NE5532D dual low-noise op
amps, SOIC-8 (IC2-IC4)
1 MCP1703-3302E 16V in,
3.3V out, 250mA low-dropout
regulator, SOT-223 (REG1)
1 MIC5201YM 20V, 200mA
adjustable low-dropout
regulator, SOIC-8 (REG2)
8 2N7002P logic-level N-channel
Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q1-Q8)
1 BZX84C5V6 5.6V 1/4W zener
diode, SOT-23 (ZD1)
1 30V 1A Schottky diode, SMA/
DO-214AC or Mini2 SMD
package (D1)
8 BAT54S dual series Schottky
diodes, SOT-23 (D2-D9)
60 high-brightness green SMD
3216/1206 LEDs (LED1-30,
LED41-70)
8 high-brightness yellow SMD
3216/1206 LEDs (LED31-34,
LED71-74)
8 high-brightness amber SMD
3216/1206 LEDs (LED35-38,
LED75-78)
4 high-brightness red SMD
3216/1206 LEDs (LED3940,LED79-80)
If the brightness trimpot is set at a
level below 100%, before the interrupt
handler completes, it enables Timer3
and sets it for a value proportional to
8 high-brightness blue SMD
3216/1206 LEDs (LED81-88)
Capacitors (SMD 2012/0805 unless
specified)
2 47µF 6.3V X5R 2012/0805 or
3216/1206
2 10µF 6.3V X5R 2012/0805 or
3216/1206
11 2.2µF 16V X5R
6 100nF 50V X7R
2 1nF 50V C0G
2 680pF 50V C0G
6 100pF 50V C0G
Resistors (SMD 2012/0805, 1%
0.125W unless specified)
2 22kΩ or 22.1kΩ 1% 0.5W
3216/1206
14 22kΩ
4 3.9kΩ
2 20kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
1 12kΩ
19 1kΩ
1 10kΩ
1 33Ω 5% 1W 6331/2512
2 10Ω
Optional parts
Tapped spacers and M3 machine
screws for mounting, shielded
cable and twin-lead for hard wiring,
case with clear lid
Optional laser-cut case
1 set 3mm clear acrylic pieces
1 small tube acrylic glue (solventbased)
4 M3 x 10mm machine screws
2 M3 x 12mm tapped Nylon
spacers
4 M3 shakeproof washers
Where to buy parts
The PCB, programmed microcon
troller, case pieces & red/white RCA
sockets are available separately
from the SILICON CHIP Online Shop.
We’re also offering a set of parts
containing all the SMDs except for
the microcontroller & LEDs. Sets
of 10 red, amber, yellow, green or
blue high-brightness 3216-size SMD
LEDs with diffused lenses are available separately, so that constructors
can choose their own colours.
the brightness. When the interrupt
handler for Timer 3 is subsequently
triggered, RC0-RC11 are brought low,
cutting off the LED drive to reduce the
June 2016 39
Handling Higher Amplitude Signals
As presented, the circuit is designed to accept sinewave signals up to 2.33V RMS
(6.6V peak-to-peak or 3.3V peak). Signals above this level will cause D2 & D3 to conduct and the meter will simply show a full -scale reading but no damage should occur.
This is not sufficient to monitor the outputs of a power amplifier. Some equipment
may also produce line-level signals above 2.33V RMS. In this case, it’s simply a matter of changing the input divider so that, with the maximum input signal level, the
resulting voltage does not exceed 3.3V peak-to-peak. The parallel combination of the
two divider resistors should be kept to 11kΩ. This means that the “lower” leg resistor
will need to be reduced in value, probably to somewhere in the range of 11-15kΩ.
Consider a power amplifier like our Ultra-LD Mk.4 (August-October 2015) which
can deliver 135W into 8Ω or 200W into 4Ω. This requires an output voltage of √(135
x 8) = 33V RMS or 93V peak-to-peak (33V x 2.828). For 200W into 4Ω, the output
will be √(200 x 4) = 28.3V RMS. So the meter would need to handle 33V RMS to
monitor the outputs directly.
This means a divider ratio of at least 93V ÷ 3.3V = 28.2 is required. We set the
bottom leg to 11kΩ (ie, the resistor from the 5.6V rail) since the other resistor value
will be much larger and have negligible contribution to the divider’s output impedance. The other resistor will then need to be at least 11kΩ x (28.2 – 1) = 300kΩ. This
happens to be an E24 value; if it wasn’t, we would have chosen the next higher value.
The parallel resistance is 1 ÷ [(1 ÷ 11kΩ) + (1 ÷ 300kΩ)] = 10.6kΩ, which is close
enough to 11kΩ.
This new divider reduces the input levels by 23dB compared to the original design,
so the +7dBV setting is in reality now +30dBV, which would indicate full amplifier
power into 8Ω. Note that the other reference levels will be effectively increased by
the same amount.
average display brightness. Both interrupt priorities are set to level four, the
highest used.
An error in the silicon?
This multiplexing method works
very well, giving a stable and bright
display. At least, it did until we enabled the ADC. Even with ADC interrupts disabled, it caused the LED display to flicker.
We couldn’t understand why, since
the timer period should not be affected by the operation of the ADC and
the flickering occurred even without
enabling interrupts for the ADC unit
at any location in the code. So why
should the ADC interfere with the
multiplexing?
We got a clue by examining the
Mosfet drive signals for Q1-Q8 using
an oscilloscope. Periodically, one of
the Mosfet gate drive pulses would
be extremely short; rather than the
expected 1.6384ms, it measured something like 50μs, appearing as just a
spike on the screen. Following that occurrence, the next pulse for that same
Mosfet would occur about 11.5ms
later, or roughly seven timer periods,
rather than the expected 13.1ms (eight
timer periods).
40 Silicon Chip
This pointed to the possibility that,
having completed the Timer1 interrupt
handler, the processor would sometimes immediately re-enter it and thus
the code would then assume some time
had passed and switch to the next multiplexed bank of LEDs prematurely.
For some reason, this occurred only
when the ADC was enabled and active.
We can’t figure out how the software
could have caused this, since when
the ADC is in auto-sampling mode,
with interrupts disabled, it operates
autonomously.
Simple solution
In the end, we came up with a simple solution: we set Timer2 to the same
time base and period as Timer1. When
the Timer1 interrupt handler is about
to exit, it resets Timer2. At the start
of the Timer1 interrupt handler, we
check the value of the Timer2 counter.
If it’s less than half the expected value,
indicating that the Timer1 interrupt
should not have occurred yet, we exit
the interrupt handler without doing
anything. This allows us to ignore the
occasional spurious event.
Our guess as to the nature of this
problem is that an implementation bug
in this series of PIC32s causes some in-
terrupt handlers to re-triggered upon
exit if something else is going on in
the chip simultaneously.
A “gotcha”
Another issue we ran into is that the
display also started flickering when we
added the code to update the states of
LEDs81-88. Unlike the previous issue,
this turned out to be our fault. LED86
is driven by output RB12 which is on
the same port as the pins driving Mosfets Q1-Q8 (ie, RB2-RB9).
The code to update the state of
LED86 read:
LATBbits.LATB12 = !(Sensitivity == 1);
This looks like an atomic operation,
setting the bit LATB12 which controls
the state of output RB12. However, it
is actually a read-modify-write operation, ie, the value of special register LATB is transferred to a general
purpose register, the value of bit 12 is
changed and the result is then transferred back to the special register.
But if the Timer1 interrupt handler
is triggered in the middle of this procedure, it may change the value of special
register LATB. When the special register is written back later by the above
code, that overrides the change made
by the interrupt handler.
One possible solution is to temporarily disable interrupts while updating LATB12 but that’s clumsy. The
elegant solution is to take advantage
of the special set/clear/toggle registers
available for all the GPIO registers (and
many others) on this chip, ie:
if( Sensitivity == 1 )
LATBCLR = 1<<12;
else
LATBSET = 1<<12;
These operations are atomic, ie,
can’t be interrupted. If an interrupt
handler is triggered simultaneously, it
will be executed either before or after
the clear/set operation, eliminating
the flicker.
Analog computations
As explained earlier, the input signals (left & right channels) are applied
to six different analog inputs: two with
an overall gain of one half, two with
a gain of 11.5 times and two with a
gain of 264.5 times. However, rather
than switch between sampling these
different inputs depending on signal
level, we simply sample all six, all the
time. The code in the ADC conversion
siliconchip.com.au
We used green, yellow, amber and red LEDs in the bargraphs but you can
change these to suit your requirements. Pt.2 next month has the assembly
details. Note: prototype board shown.
complete interrupt handler routine decides which to use, depending on the
values returned.
If the value from the input amplified by 264.5 times is very near either
rail (ie, the conversion result is very
close to either zero or 1023), the value
from the 11.5 times amplified input is
used instead, multiplied by 23 so that
it has the same scale as readings from
the other input. If that lower-gain input is also found to be very near either
rail, the value from the third, attenuated input is kept instead, multiplied
by 529 (23 x 23). The result is then
stored in one of two 1024-entry stereo
buffers for later analysis, to keep the
interrupt handler routine quick so it
won’t interfere with LED multiplexing.
The micro’s peripheral clock is set to
run at half the rate of the main clock, ie,
20MHz. The ADC clock input divider
is set to a factor of two, giving 10MHz.
Each conversion takes 12 cycles, plus
eight cycles for the sample-and-hold
buffer to stabilise, for a total of 20 cycles each (10MHz ÷ [20 x 6] = 83.3kHz).
We average each pair of sample values
to reduce system noise, resulting in a
final sampling rate of 41.6kHz, sufficient for measuring signal frequencies
up to 20.8kHz (the Nyquist limit).
Once a sample buffer is full, the
code’s main loop calculates the average of all values and subtracts it from
the sample values to remove any DC
offset or low-frequency signals which
have not been rejected by the analog
filter. It then computes the RMS and
peak values for each channel.
The resulting RMS values are then
stored and averaged over a configurable number of 1024-sample intervals,
so that it varies smoothly. Similarly,
the highest peak values across multiple 1024-sample buffers are computed.
These RMS and peak values are converted into decibels using a logarithmic calculation, taking into account
the current range and reference level
selection. The display is then updated
to show the peak and/or average results (depending on the display mode).
Other functions
Button presses are sensed using a
pin change interrupt and debounced
using Timer4 (S1) or Timer5 (S2).
When a press is detected, the interrupt
handler sets a flag and the main loop
updates the mode and then saves the
new setting to flash memory. These
saved settings are automatically loaded each time the unit is powered up.
Long presses (>0.5s) have a different effect compared to short presses
and this is determined by when the
associated timer rolls over. As well
as using these buttons to change the
display range and reference level,
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
LED Colours
In our prototype, we used 30 green
LEDs at the left end of each bargraph,
followed by four yellow, four amber
and two red. This is a purely aesthetic
choice. You could make them all the
same colour (eg, blue), or use a different combination than we did.
While brightness matching between different colours is generally
good enough, the software allows
you to provide some drive compensation to reduce the difference in apparent brightness between different
colour LEDs.
We also decided to make LEDs8188 blue, in contrast to LEDs1-80 and
the parts list reflects our choices.
various combinations can be used to
change settings, to be described next
month in Pt.2.
Noise nulling is implemented by
storing the left and right channel RMS
and peak values when S1 is held down,
both in RAM and flash memory. These
are subtracted from subsequent readings, with the RMS noise figure being
subtracted in an RMS manner.
That’s all we have space for this
month. Next month we’ll get onto the
PCB construction, testing, operation
SC
and fitting the unit into a case.
Keep your copies safe
with our handy binders
Order now from www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/4 or call (02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit
card number. *See website for overseas prices.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 41
The view at left shows the cooling
system monitor in operation while
the above photo shows the radiator
and cooling fan assembly that was
added to the stock laser cutter.
The air assist pump is behind the
radiator in the background, while
the water pump is in the water
reservoir out of picture to the left
(see photo on facing page).
By Nicholas Vinen
Arduino cooling system
monitor for a laser cutter
This unit is based on a small Arduino module and monitors the
cooling system in a large laser cutter. It monitors the speed of the
fans, the water flow and temperature and sounds an alarm in the
event of a malfunction, so the operator can take action before any
damage occurs. Although designed for a laser cutter, it would suit a
number of similar applications.
L
ASER CUTTERS are now available
at quite reasonable prices from
China but in line with their modest
prices, they do require quite a bit of
work to get them up and running, in
our experience. In our case, the supplied cooling system was quite rudimentary, consisting of nothing more
than an aquarium pump and a couple
of hoses. The instructions were to the
effect that the pump should be submerged in a large bucket of water and
arranged to deliver water to the laser
42 Silicon Chip
tube which would then flow back into
the bucket; not the engineered solution
we would expect.
Nor was the arrangement to exhaust
toxic fumes from the cutter well sorted out, as it came with a very noisy
centrifugal fan which actually leaked
fumes, while the large cutter housing itself had multiple air leaks, all of
which had to be sealed off. And there
were other problems with the assembly which required attention.
Fortunately, the laser cutter itself
actually works very well.
As for the rudimentary cooling system, a bucket of water obviously has a
limited capacity to absorb heat and as
the water gets hotter, the laser performance drops. So we decided to modify
the system to incorporate a metal radiator with fan-forced air cooling to keep
the laser tube operating at a reasonable
temperature long-term, especially in
the hotter months.
We selected a copper-cored radiator
designed for computer water cooling,
siliconchip.com.au
The water reservoir (clear container) and the radiator/fan assembly sit on a
platform at the bottom of the laser cutter. Together with the pump, they keep
the temperature of the water circulating through the laser tube to about 35°C.
teamed with three 120mm brushless
fans. However, we were concerned
that if the pump failed, or its power
cable somehow became disconnected
or a hose leaked, there would be no
obvious sign until the laser tube was
destroyed. So we decided to include
sensors to monitor the fans and coolant flow and provide a water temperature display.
Cooling system upgrades
The parts list shows the items we
used to upgrade the cooling system,
with the electronic parts listed separately. Besides the electronic components, pretty much every
thing was
purchased via the www.aliexpress.
com website. Some would no doubt
be available from plumbing supply
stores or specialist computer stores but
we liked the convenience of ordering
them all in the one place.
Most of these parts were used to
plumb the radiator, which has British Standard Pipe (BSP) G1/4” female
connection points, into the existing
laser cutter cooling system which used
8mm ID silicone tubing pushed onto
hose barbs.
The T-fitting was attached to the
inlet end of the radiator to allow the
G1/8” threaded temperature sensor
siliconchip.com.au
to be screwed in (via an adaptor), to
monitor the temperature of the water
coming from the laser tube. The G1/2”
flow sensor was connected to the radiator outlet via an elbow fitting and
G1/4” to G1/2” adaptor. A flow sensor
with G1/2” fittings was chosen as it
was thought that this would provide
less flow resistance than a G1/4” fitting flow sensor with much smaller
internal passages.
The electronics and fans run from
12V. The laser cutter has a 24V +
5V power supply, so we used the
MiniSwitcher (Simple 1.2-20V 1.5A
Switching Regulator, February 2012)
to efficiently convert 24V to 12V.
The photo below shows the Mini
Switcher board glued into the laser
cutter chassis with white silicone
sealant. One grey figure-8 lead brings
24V power from the laser cutter supply and another routes the 12V output
up through the chassis to the control
box on top.
Electronic module
The control box is based on a tiny
Arduino board (a “Pro Micro”). The
circuit is shown in Fig.1, along with
some of the plumbing details. Its job is
to control and monitor the fan speed
and also monitor the water flow. If the
speed of any fan or the water flow rate
drops below a predefined threshold
(80% of nominal), red LED3 lights and
a piezo transducer beeps.
The MiniSwitcher
power supply board
was glued onto a
shelf inside the
laser cutter chassis
using white silicone
sealant.
June 2016 43
The copper radiator, the three 120mm-diameter ball-bearing fans and the various brass plumbing accessories were all
purchased from www.aliexpress.com The fans are all controlled by an Arduino module in the Cooling System Monitor.
Warning yellow LED2 lights if the
fan speed or water flow rate drop below
90% of the nominal rates, indicating
a possible pending failure, blockage
or perhaps pinched off water tube.
Otherwise, if everything is OK, green
LED1 lights to indicate that it is operating normally.
The temperature display unit is
powered from a 12V output on the
control module (CON3) and sits on
top of it.
Circuit description
MOD1 is an Arduino “Pro Micro”
board based on the ATmega32U4. This
is very similar to the LeoStick module
from Freetronics that we reviewed in
July 2012, and is available from Jaycar.
The main difference is that the Leostick plugs into a USB port directly
while the Pro Micro is a little smaller
and has a MicroUSB socket instead.
The Pro Micro comes in 3.3V and 5V
versions; we used the 5V version. In
this application, the USB connection
is used only for initial programming
so we decided it would be better to
use the smaller Pro Micro.
The software could be adapted to
just about any Arduino board. Since
the LeoStick uses the same processor,
it would probably work without any
changes but we haven’t tried it.
MOD1 senses the position of fan
speed control pot VR1 which is connected across the micro’s 5V supply.
The voltage (0-5V) at its wiper is sensed
44 Silicon Chip
by the Arduino’s A6 ADC input at pin
7. Depending on the voltage sensed, it
produces a 50-100% duty cycle PWM
waveform at output D10 (pin 13) which
drives the gate of N-channel small signal Mosfet Q2.
When Q2’s gate is driven high, it
switches on and pulls Q1’s gate low. Q1
is a P-channel Mosfet so this switches
on in turn, allowing current to flow
from the 12V supply at CON1, through
reverse polarity protection diode D1,
polyswitch PTC1, Q1, inductor L1 and
to the fans.
PTC1 provides short-circuit protection; in the case of a short across the
fan supply, it will rapidly heat up and
its resistance then increases, limiting
the maximum current to around 1A.
When pin 13 of MOD1 goes low,
Q1 switches off and the two parallel
470Ω 0.5W resistors pull up Q1’s gate
to its source voltage, switching it off.
This cuts off the current supply for L1,
however its magnetic field is still initially charged and this causes current
to flow from ground, through Schottky
diode D2, inductor L1 and the fans. The
220µF output capacitor also provides
current to the fans for the period that
Q1 is off.
These two phases are repeated as the
PWM signal toggles and this forms a
basic buck regulator. What this means
is that the voltage across the fans varies smoothly as a function of the PWM
duty cycle from pin 13 of MOD1. With
VR1 at a minimum setting, the duty cy-
cle is 50% (and the frequency is around
50kHz), giving around 6V across the
fans, resulting in slow but steady operation. As VR1 is rotated clockwise,
the duty cycle rises to 100%, increasing the voltage at the fans to the full
supply, ie, around 11.4V.
Each fan has a Hall effect sensor with
an open-collector output and these are
wired back individually to inputs D19D21 (pins 18-20) of MOD1. MOD1 has
weak internal current sources enabled
for these pins to pull them up, so they
are held at 5V unless the fan sensor is
pulling them low. MOD1 uses an internal 1-second timer to count the number
of pulses per second on each of these
inputs, with software debouncing to
eliminate spikes that may be due to
electrical noise picked up by the wires.
Thus, it can sense the speed of each
fan and sound an alarm if any of them
drops too low. In this case, the duty
cycle from pin 13 is automatically increased to 100% so that if one fan (or the
wiring to it) fails, the others will run at
full speed to provide adequate radiator
cooling until the situation is rectified.
The same method is used to check
the output of the Hall effect sensor in
the water flow meter, which is connected to input D2 (pin 5). Note that all four
sensors are connected via 1kΩ series
resistors. These are not strictly necessary when interfacing to devices with
open-collector outputs but it protects
MOD1 in case of an accidental short
of one of the sensor wires to a higher
siliconchip.com.au
A
λ
A
λ
PB1
3x
220Ω
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
MOSI/D16
MISO/D14
SCLK/D15
A0/D18
A1/D19
A2/D20
A3/D21
RST
GND
3
GND
4
GND
23
D9/A9/PWM PWM/A10/D10
D8/A8
D7
D6/A7/PWM
D5/PWM
D4/A6
Vcc
MOD1
Pro Micro
(Arduino)
RAW
D3/SCL/PWM
D2/SDA
D0/RXI
D1/TXO
21
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
22
A
K
S1
SET NOMINAL STATE
3x
1k
D2
1N5819
Q2
2N7000
220 µF
16V
LASER CUTTER COOLING SYSTEM MONITOR
VR1
10k
1k
2
1
24
470Ω
A
CON3
+
+
LCD
TEMPERATURE
DISPLAY
MINI SWITCHER
SET FOR
12V OUTPUT
CON4
FAN CONNECTOR
12V DC OUTPUT
CON2
12V DC INPUT
L1
100 µH
220 µF
3A
16V
Q1
IRF9540
PTC1
RXEF110K
22Ω
K
D1
1N4004
–
+
K
+
–
HALL EFFECT
FLOW RATE
SENSOR
–
+
+
TO LASER CUTTER
24V POWER SUPPLY
–
D3-D5
3 × 1N4004
COPPER RADIATOR
+
Fig.1: complete circuit diagram for the cooling system monitor. It’s based around “Pro Micro” Arduino module MOD1 and
monitors the speed of three fans plus the water flow rate. Radiator input water temperature is displayed on an LCD while
fan speed is controlled with a simple switchmode circuit comprising Mosfet Q1, Schottky diode D2 and inductor L1.
SC
20 1 6
λ
CON1
GND
K LED1 K LED2 K LED3
A
+
SIGNAL
TO FLOW SENSOR
470Ω
θ
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 45
θ
WATER
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
CO 2
LASER
TUBE
COOLING WATER
RESERVOIR WITH
SUBMERGED
AQUARIUM PUMP
& FILTER
230VAC
MAINS
A
Below: all the parts, including the Arduino
module) were mounted on a small piece of
phenolic proto-typing board.
Above: this close-up view shows
the flow sensor. It’s connected to the
sensor circuit via a 3-wire cable (two
for the supply and one for signal).
voltage source (eg, 12V or 24V) or in
the case of static discharge.
The three status LEDs are driven
from outputs D5-D7 (pins 8-10) with
220Ω current-limiting resistors, setting the LED current at around 12mA
each. We used high-brightness LEDs
with diffused lenses and wide viewing angles so they are highly visible.
The piezo transducer is driven from
paralleled outputs D8 & D9 (pins 11 &
12) so that the micro can provide sufficient current for it. It’s pulsed with a
25% duty cycle at 2Hz whenever the
red LED is lit (ie, if any sensor indicates a rate less than 80% of nominal).
Nominal rates are set using pushbutton S1 which is accessible via a hole
in the front of the unit, with a small
screwdriver. Like the Hall effect sensor
inputs, D18 (pin 17) has a weak pull-up
current enabled so that the unit can detect when the button is pressed. When
this happens, the current readings for
all four sensors are stored in EEPROM,
as the nominal readings. The warning
and alarm levels are then based on
these readings. Since EEPROM is nonvolatile, they are retained even when
power is lost.
ed brass temperature sensor which
connects to an LCD panel, the pair
available for around $10, again from
AliExpress (see parts list). There are
various different-sized threads available and we asked for the “10mm” type
which is actually BSP G1/8” (nominal
outer thread diameter 9.728mm). Note
that BSP sizes indicate the diameter of
pipe a given thread is designed for, not
the thread diameter itself.
Happily, the two-conductor sensor
wire provided was long enough to
route it from the radiator input pipe,
through the laser cutter and up to the
control box. The only connection between the temperature monitor and
the control box itself is the 12V power.
As shown in the accompanying photos, the display shows the temperature
in degrees Celsius with a 0.1°C resolution, along with a digital “needle”
pointing to a temperature scale. It is
easy to read, although if your head is
above or below the eye-line of the display it looks a bit washed out.
a MicroUSB cable before MOD1 was
plugged into this board.
The accompanying photo shows the
basic layout of the parts on the board;
note that some of the smaller passive components (eg, resistors) were
mounted under MOD1 to save space.
Basically, we cut a piece of board 22 x
14 holes wide, soldered the two female
headers for MOD1 in place about one
third of the way across the board, then
proceeded to solder resistors with their
leads directly adjacent to the pins on
MOD1 to which they had to be connected. We then bridged the leads to
the pins using solder.
We then fitted the connectors to the
far end of the board and the switchmode regulator components in between, with the pushbutton, LEDs
and piezo at the opposite end, which
would become the front of the unit.
Where possible, component leads
were bent over and soldered directly
to the pad for the component they
connect to. Where this wasn’t possible, we ran point-to-point wiring on
the underside of the board, primarily
with Kynar (wire-wrap wire).
The board was then powered up,
programmed and tested.
Building it
All the components were fitted to a
piece of phenolic prototyping board
(with copper donuts, not tracks), with
a pair of female headers to connect to
MOD1 (which came with male headers). The program was loaded using
Temperature display
Rather than building a temperature
display, we used an automotive thread-
Custom case
We used the laser cutter to make a
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
2
3
1
46 Silicon Chip
Value
1kΩ
470Ω 5%
220Ω
22Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown gold
red red brown brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black brown brown
not applicable
red red black black brown
red red black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
small custom case, with holes in the
front for the LEDs, access to S1 and to
allow the piezo transducer to be audible. There’s also a hole in the side for
VR1’s shaft and four small holes at the
rear for the power input lead, power
lead to the temperature display, fan
power/sensing cable and water-flow
meter cable.
The leads were fed through the holes
in the case and the case glued around
the board. If we ever need to get it out,
we will have to destroy the case but,
of course, as long as we keep the files,
we can always cut a new one.
Software
Because the software has a simple,
dedicated task, hardware counters and
interrupts are not used. Instead, Timer3
is set up to provide a 1-second timebase and the main loop debounces the
four frequency inputs at pins D2, D19,
D20 & D21 and then counts the number of pulses received at each input
per 1-second timer period. These are
compared to reference numbers stored
in EEPROM and the appropriate LED is
lit depending on whether any of these
are below 90% of the nominal value
(or 80% for the red LED).
If S1 is pressed, the counter values
from the last period are stored in those
EEPROM values as the future nominal values and the EEPROM is read
at power-on and loaded into RAM for
comparison.
Each time through the main loop,
the analogRead() function is used to
determine the voltage at analog input
pin A6 and hardware Timer1 is used
to produce a PWM signal at output
pin D10 which is proportional to this.
The software, being quite straightforward, is quite easy to read. For more
details, download the “sketch” and
examine the .ino file. We used two Arduino extension modules, “TimerOne”
and “TimerThree”, to make setting up
and using the hardware timers easier.
The Arduino sketch can be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website
(free for subscribers). You’ll find it in
the June 2016 “Shop” section.
Installation, set-up & use
Once the radiator assembly had been
built and all the plumbing done, the
most difficult remaining task was routing the wiring under and through the
internals of the laser-cutter to emerge
near the control panel at upper right.
We used a variety of methods to string
siliconchip.com.au
The Cooling System Monitor sits on top of the laser cutter, just behind the control
panel. It’s connected to temperature and flow-rate sensors that are fitted to the
radiator and sounds a piezo transducer if a problem is detected.
Right: a side-on view
of the completed unit.
The cables run to the
water temperature
and flow sensors and
to the power supply.
The temperature
sensor display sits
on top of the monitor
case and is a standard
automotive unit (see
parts list).
the wires and keep them neat, including P-clamps attached to screws protruding from the bottom of the unit,
adhesive wire clips, cable ties, heatshrink tubing and even clamping the
wires with the various flip-down panels on the unit itself.
We ran a 5-way ribbon cable from
the fans to the control box for 12V fan
power and speed monitoring, plus a
3-wire ribbon cable for the water flow
sensor and a 2-wire lead for the temperature sensor. The only extra wiring
required was the aforementioned 12V
power supply wiring from the laser cutter internals to the control box.
To extend the short 3-way cable supplied with the flow sensor, we simply
soldered a 3-way ribbon cable onto
the end of a standard 3-pin header,
plugged this into the locking plug from
the sensor (which also has 2.54mm pin
June 2016 47
Parts List
Radiator & plumbing
Note: item codes are for AliExpress,
although some may no longer be valid
1 360x120mm U-flow copper
radiator with G1/4” inlet,
outlet and centre tap (item#
1956079016)
3 Sunon KD1212PTB3-6A 12V
1.9W double ball bearing 120mm
fans (item# 2022379891)
3 120mm fan vibration-damping
silicone gaskets (item#
32224342946)
3 120mm clip-on plastic fan grilles
(Rockby Electronics code 39067)
1 automotive temperature sensor
with LCD display, mounting
bracket and G1/8” threaded
sensor (item# 32450099507,
“10mm” sensor)
1 G1/4” end cap, to block centre
tap port in radiator (item#
32264189117 [pack of two])
1 G1/2” 1-30L/min Hall effect flow
sensor (item# 32605214366)
1 G1/2” female-female copper/
brass adaptor (item#
32345278486 [#3])
1 G1/4” male-female-female brass
tee fitting (item# 1902581471
[pack of three])
1 G1/4” male to G1/8” female brass
adaptor (item# 1926696115
[pack of five])
1 G1/4” male to G1/4” female
brass elbow adaptor (item#
1922705891)
1 G1/4” male to G1/2” female brass
adaptor (item# 1876999872
[pack of two])
spacing) and used a heatshrink tubing
sleeve to hold the assembly together.
Similarly, three polarised headers soldered onto a small piece of phenolic
prototyping board were used to connect the 5-way ribbon cable to the three
fan power speed-sense cables.
Having completed the wiring, all we
had to do was switch the laser cutter
on and press S1. Green LED1 lit up.
We then unplugged power to the water
pump and checked that red LED3 lit instead and that PB1 beeped constantly.
Plugging water pump power back in
silenced the alarm. Similarly, turning
down the fan speed triggers the alarm
(and automatically sets the fans to run
at maximum speed).
48 Silicon Chip
1 G1/4” male to 8mm hose
barb brass adaptor (item#
1924530597 [pack of two])
1 G1/2” male to 8mm hose
barb brass adaptor (item#
1924378817 [pack of two])
1 2m length 8mm ID 12mm OD
food grade silicone tubing (item#
32410550179)
8 M4 x 40mm machine screws
4 M4 x 45mm machine screws
12 M4 nuts
6 small L-shaped brackets (from
Bunnings)
1 electronics module (see below)
1 “Mini Switcher” step-down
module (see February 2012
issue; Jaycar KC5508, Altronics
K6340)
1 small piece protoboard
3 3-pin polarised headers
1 3-pin header
Miscellaneous
Teflon tape, various cable ties,
P-clamps, adhesive clips and
short lengths of heatshrink tubing
Electronics module
1 small protoboard (with copper
“donuts”)
1 set of laser-cut case pieces
1 small tube acrylic glue
1 200mm length thin double-sided
tape
1 5V Pro Micro-clone Arduino
module (MOD1; Ali Express
item# 32284746884)
1 10kΩ linear 9mm potentiometer
(VR1)
We decided to run the fans near
maximum speed, with potentiometer VR1 almost fully clockwise, as the
noise is drowned out by other components of the system and this provides
the best cooling.
To reduce fan speed, it’s necessary
to initially do so in stages, pressing
switch S1 as you go, to prevent the
alarm from triggering and forcing them
to maximum speed. Once the nominal
fan speed has been reduced, VR1 can
then be used to adjust the speed up and
down as you would expect, as long as
it is not set below the nominal level.
Conclusion
Fitting the new cooling system re-
1 3-way polarised pin header &
plug (CON1)
2 2-way mini terminal blocks
(CON2,CON3)
1 5-way right-angle polarised pin
header & plug (CON4)
1 mini 12V sealed piezo
transducer (PB1) (Jaycar
AB3459, Altronics S6105)
1 right-angle tactile pushbutton
(S1)
1 1.1A hold, 2.2A trip polyswitch
(PTC1) (eg, RXEF110K)
1 100µH 3A powdered-iron core
toroidal inductor (L1)
1 2m length rainbow cable
1 2m length light-duty figure-8
wire
2 12-pin female headers (for
MOD1)
Semiconductors
1 IRF9540 P-channel Mosfet (Q1)
1 2N7000 N-channel small signal
Mosfet (Q2)
1 5mm high-brightness diffused
green LED (LED1)
1 5mm high-brightness diffused
yellow LED (LED2)
1 5mm high-brightness diffused
red LED (LED3)
4 1N4004 1A diodes (D1, D3-D5)
1 1N5819 1A Schottky diode (D2)
Capacitors
2 220µF 16V low-ESR electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W 1% unless
specified)
4 1kΩ
2 470Ω 0.5W 5%
3 220Ω
1 22Ω
ally transformed the laser cutter. With
the original cooling system, we had to
wait for around an hour between cutting large panels to let the water cool
down and we got inconsistent results,
with cuts made later in each run not
necessarily going all the way through
the material. Now the laser cutter can
run continuously all day with barely
more than a 10°C rise in water temperature and with perfectly consistent cut depth.
Importantly, we now have peace of
mind since we will be immediately
alerted to any serious problem which
may occur with the laser cooling system and we can check the water temperature at a glance.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
TEST, MEASURE & SAVE
CURIE HEAT TECHNOLOGY SOLDERING STATION
NEW
55W 470kHz
ESD Safe Pb Free
Soldering Station
$
TS-1584 RRP $359
An outstanding new soldering station that uses
the proven Curie Point technology to bring
the tip up to operating temp as soon as it's
removed from its holder. It works with leaded
and unleaded solder. ESD rated. Mains powered.
1.5mm chisel tip included.
359
$
179
0-30VDC Regulated
Power Supply MP-3840
FREE 200G ROLL OF 1MM SOLDER
FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS*
NS-3010 Valid with purchase of TS-1584
NEW
*
NS-3010 VALUED AT $15.95
Power your devices with accuracy and the
confidence that only comes with a professional lab
power supply.
• 0 to 5A.
• Precise voltage level and current limit settings
• 1mV ripple voltage
• Avoids overheating, burnout, and over-current
• Easy-to-use LCD display panel
NEW
NEW
NEW
FROM
$
NEW
$
34
95
Gas Can Blow torch
Attachment TH-1630
Fits onto a standard butane cartridge and produces
a large flat flame for copper and plastic pipe
welding, shrinking heatshrink, etc.
$
44
$
95
249
LiFeP04 12V
Jump Starters WITH LCD
5W UHF CB Radio
Magnifying Lamp
199
Lightweight compared to traditional lead acid style
batteries!
• 2 x built in USB ports for charging smart devices
All functions for the unit are located on the face of
• Reverse polarity and short circuit protection
the microphone, allowing you to remotely locate the • Battery and alternator tester
base unit within easy reach. 18km range.
• LED working light
• 80 channel
270A MB-3760 $199
• 12-24VDC
450A MB-3762 $299
• 127(W) x 100(L) x 25(H)mm (Base Unit)
WITH MICROPHONE DISPLAY
AND CONTROL DC-1122
WITH THIRD HAND TH-1989
A multi-purpose tool ideal for hobbyists.
Equipped with LED illuminated 3x magnifying
glass, soldering iron stand, alligator clips, solder
spool holder, cleaning sponge & ball.
• 4 x AA batteries required (Available separately)
• 190(W) x 170(D)mm (base size)
MORE ARDUINO® ESSENTIALS ON PAGE 7
Breadboard
NEW
1350
$
Breadboard Jumper Kit
PB-8850
Consists of 70 stripped pieces of single core sturdy
wire.
• 5 pieces each of 14 different lengths
• Supplied in a plastic box for easy storage
1995
$
Proto Shield Kit
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4555
Build your own Arduino shield using the compact
and flexible Proto Shield kit. Solder together a
limitless range of circuits and reuse it in all your
Arduino projects. A standard 0.1" prototyping grid
accepts commonly used through-hole parts and
chips. Kit includes multiple headers, resistors and
spacers. See online for more information.
NEW STORE: HURSTVILLE
Catalogue Sale 24 May - 23 June, 2016
$
2995
DuinoTECH Classic (UNO)
XC-4410
ATMega328P Microcontroller. Powered from
7-12VDC or from your computers USB port. 5VDC
Regulated via USB port or 5V pin.
• 75(W) x 53(L) x 13(H)mm
SHOP 1/124 FOREST RD
HURSTVILLE NSW 2250 PH: 02 9580 1844
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
PB-8816 WAS $43.95
• 1680 tie points
• 400 distribution holes /
1280 terminal holes
• Mounted on a metal plate
• 3 banana terminals
NOW
• Rubber feet.
95
• Size 157(W) x 237(H) $
• Board Size 130 x 175
SAVE $9
34
MULTIMETERS & ACCESSORIES
CAT II MULTI-FUNCTIONAL DIGITAL MULTIMETERS
CAT III MULTI-FUNCTIONAL DIGITAL MULTIMETERS
Suitable for local level electricity distribution such as wall outlets.
Suitable for fixed installation, distribution boards and circuit breakers.
CAT II Low Cost
Digital Multimeter
Autoranging
Multimeter
QM-1500 WAS $9.95
Perfect first meter! Includes
transistor & diode test.
• 500V, 2000 count
• AC voltages up to 750V
• DC voltages up to 1000V
• DC current up to 10A
• Includes test leads
• 125(H) x
68(W) x
23(D)mm
Cat II Autoranging
Multimeter
6
$ 95
SAVE $3
QM-1524 WAS $24.95
15mm high digits, with
backlight, data hold, diode
check, & overload protection.
• 600V, 1999 Count
• AC/DC Voltage up to 600V
• AC/DC Current up to 10A
• Includes test leads
• 140(H) x
70(W) x
31(H)mm
$
1995
SAVE $5
QM-1323
Professional grade multimeter
loaded with features including
non-contact voltage
detection and duty cycle.
• 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages up to 600V
• AC/DC current up to 10A
• Test leads, K-probe and
carry case included
• 138(H) x 68(W) x 37(D)mm
CAT IV TRUE RMS MULTI-FUNCTIONAL DIGITAL MULTIMETERS
QM-1549
Large, easily to read display
and carries an IP67
environmental rating. Includes
data hold, Diode test, Relative
measurement & backlight.
• 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages up to 1000V
• AC/DC currents up to 10A
• Test leads and carry case
included
• 182(H) x 82(W)
x 55(D)mm
True RMS
Autoranging Cat IV
DMM QM-1571
$
9495
Impact resistant and durable.
Measures resistance,
capacitance, frequency &
temperature. Includes data
hold, relative measurement &
diode test. 600V, 4000 count.
• IP67 environmental rating
• AC/DC voltages up to 1000V
• AC/DC current up to 10A
• Test leads and carry
case included
• 170(H) x 79(W)
x 50(D)mm
WITH TEMPERATURE
QM-1551
Includes non-contact voltage
testing, backlit LCD &
automatic (-) negative polarity
indication. 600V, 4000 count.
• AC/DC Voltages up to 600V
• AC/DC Currents up to 10A
• Test leads, K-probe and
carry case included
• 138(H) x 68(W)
x 37(D)mm
$
Suitable for utility level measurements on primary over current protection devices.
True RMS
Autoranging DMM
Autoranging True
RMS Meter
4995
Automotive
Multimeter
$
129
6995
2 in 1 Network
Cable Tester and
Digital Multimeter
WITH INDUCTIVE PICKUP
QM-1444
Features dwell angle, frequency,
duty cycle, data hold, relative
function, backlit display and
temperature, works with
engines of 2 to 10 cylinders.
• 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages up to 600V
• AC/DC current up to 10A
• RPM x1, x10
• Test leads, probes,
alligator clips
& case included
• 146(H) x 66(W)
x 42(D)mm
$
7995
$
XC-5078
Easily check cable integrity
or measure AC & DC voltage,
current, resistance, &
continuity without needing to
carry two separate devices.
Remote terminator included.
• 600V, 2000 count
• AC/DC voltages up to 600V
• AC/DC current up to 200mA
• Test leads and
case included
• 162(H) x 74.5(W)
x 44(D)mm
$
8495
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR DMM
IF YOU’RE A PROFESSIONAL AND
REGULARLY PURCHASE ELECTRONICS
GOODS FOR BUSINESS PURPOSES, YOU
MAY BE ELIGIBLE FOR SPECIAL TRADE
PRICES AT JAYCAR COMPANY STORES*
ON SELECTED ITEMS. *Conditions apply. See
Multimeter
Carry Case HB-6361
Hard wearing case perfect
for protecting your valuable
multimeter from harsh
conditions.
• 190(L) x 125(W) x 45(D)mm
Alligator Test Lead Set
3M RETRACTABLE WT-5334
Ideal for testing and troubleshooting.
• Set of 3 heavy duty leads in red, black, and green
terminated with insulated alligator clips
• 6A rating when wound
• 10A rating (unwound)
• 3m lead length
• Reel 152(Dia) x 20(W)mm
FROM
9
$ 95
Fuses for CAT IV DMM
1KV 500MA SF-2278 $9.95
1KV 800MA SF-2279 $9.95
1KV 10A SF-2277 $14.95
website for T&Cs
SPEAK WITH OUR FRIENDLY STAFF AT
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE TODAY &
FIND OUT HOW.
6
$ 95
$
2995
SAVE 20% OFF THESE PROBES WITH PURCHASE OF ANY OF THE ABOVE CAT III AND CAT IV MULTIMETERS
$
1495
$
1395
$
Multimeter Test
Probes Shrouded Type WT-5325
Right angle banana plugs with 15mm covered pin.
• Aligator clips included
Page 2
K Type Thermocouple
Plug In Probe QM-1282
Allows measurement of external temperature
readings on DMMs. Measures temperatures from
below minus 50°C to over 250°C. Suitable for gas
and liquid with accuracy of 0.75%.
$
2195
2495
Parrot Clips
WT-5330
The only test probe which provides both clip-on
hands free contact as with an EZ-hook and normal
point contact. Includes a sprung hook, which is
Suitable for 4mm banana sockets. Probe safety
cover with slot for delicate work. 20A current rating. soldered directly to the lead and housed inside a
round metal tube. Probes are supplied with 1m
600V. 120mm long. Sold as a pair.
leads terminated to banana plugs and are fully
insulated to 1000V.
Professional Cat IV
Multimeter Probes WT-5338
Follow us at facebook.com/jaycarelectronics
Catalogue Sale 24 May - 23 June, 2016
METERS & INSTRUMENTS
CAT III CLAMP METERS
Our range of CAT III Clamp Meters make the best
general troubleshooting tools for commercial
and residential electricians and includes
features found on more expensive units such
as autoranging, data hold, non-contact voltage,
relative measurement and auto power-off. Multi
function with Resistance, Capacitance, Frequency
and Temperature, all Clamp Meters are supplied
with quality temperature probe and carry case.
400A AC/DC Clamp Meter
400A AC Clamp Meter
1000A True RMS
AC/DC Clamp Meter
QM-1561
• Cat III 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages < 600V
• AC current < 400A
• Jaw opening 30mm
QM-1563
• Cat III 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages < 600V
• AC/DC current < 400A
• Jaw opening 30mm
Tools not
included.
QM-1566
• Cat III 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages < 600V
• AC/DC current < 1000A
• True RMS, min-max, bargraph and more
• Jaw opening 40mm
$
6995
QM-1561
$
129
$
QM-1563
159
QM-1566
FREE PRO LEATHER
TOOL UTILITY BELT
FOR NERD PERKS
CARD HOLDERS*
HB-6373
*
Valid with purchase of QM-1561,
QM-1563, or QM-1566.
HB-6373 VALUED AT $19.95
METERS TO MEASURE
Moisture Meter
Wood & Building
Hand Held pH Meter
Compact Digital
Sound Level Meter
QM-1670
Large LCD gives clear and
precise readings. Includes an
extendable adjustable probe.
Supplied with a 9 volt battery,
a bottle of pH 7.0 buffer
solution and calibration tool.
• 1 - 14 pH range / 0.1 pH
resolution
• +/- 0.2 pH accuracy• 40(W) x
158(H) x 34(D)mm
QP-2310 WAS $34.95
An intelligent meter with 8mm
electrode suitable for measuring
water content in building
materials and wooden fibre
articles.
• Range: 6 to 44% (Wood) / 0.2
to 2.0% (Material)
• 96(H) x 40(W)
NOW
x 20(D)mm
$
95
29
QM-1589 WAS $129
Level Range: Low: 30-100dB,
High: 60-130dB +/- 1.5dB. 31.5
to 8,000Hz frequency range. A, C
frequency weighting. Fast, Slow
time weighting. Uses a 9V battery
(included).
• 210 x 55 x 32mm
REPLACEMENT PH
SOLUTION QM-1671 $8.95
SAVE $5
Non-Contact
Thermometer
$
WITH DUAL LASER
TARGETING QM-7221
Measure the temperature of any
surface from a safe distance.
Laser pointing targeting. Wide
temperature range. 12:1
distance-to-spot ratio.
Backlit 3.5 digit LCD.
NOW
119
$
6495
139
$
SAVE $10
TESTING, TESTING, 1, 2, 3...
Roadies Cable
Tester
Smart Test
Screwdriver TD-2055
11
$
The latest in hi-tech test screwdrivers.
• Capacitor, diode & transistor check
• Globe/relay/fuse/speaker/resistor check
• Locating broken wire
• Picks up static radiation of TV or monitor
• Instantaniously checks AC power
• Earth disconnection check
• Batteries included
95
$
Automotive
Multi-Function
Circuit Tester QM-1494
AA-0405 WAS $64.95
Simply plug the cable under
test and turn rotary switch.
The LEDs give an instant
go/no-go status of each
conductor path in the cable.
• Requires 1 x 9V battery
• 190(L) x 98(W)
x 35(H)mm
NOW
2995
Digital Stem Thermometer
QM-7216
Features fast response, min/max memory and data
hold , -50°C to 200°C.
• Non-corrosive stainless steel splash-proof body
• Requires LR44 battery (included)
• 5000 hour battery life
• 205mm long
$
Designed to test the electrical system
of an automotive vehicle running on
12V or 24V. Activate components
with positive or negative without
using a jumper wire. All the features
of a brand name unit at a fraction of
the price.
• Easy to read backlit LCD
• 240(L) x 78(H)
$
95
x 40(W)mm
5995
64
SAVE $5
PROTECT YOUR INSTRUMENTS
ABS Instrument Cases
$
WITH PURGE VALVES
These robust cases come with stainless steel pins, O-ring seals
and very solid catches. Ideal for your camera gear, test, medical or
scientific equipment. Lanyard included.
SENSITIVE MPV0 HB-6389 $24.95
• Internal: 164(L) x 119(W) x 40(H)mm
• External: 173(L) x 125(W) x 50(H)mm
MEDIUM MPV4 HB-6383 $99.95 HB-6389
• Internal: 400(W) x 322(D) x 145(H)mm
FROM
• External: 410(W) x 332(D) x 155(H)mm
TINY MPV1 HB-6388 $39.95
LARGE MPV7 HB-6385 $129
• Internal: 480(W) x 355(D) x 180(H)mm
• External: 515(W) x 365(D) x 190(H)mm
SMALL MPV2 HB-6381 $69.95
• Internal: 300(W) x 218(D) x 105(H)mm
• External: 305(W) x 228(D) x 115(H)mm
ROLLING CASE MPV8 HB-6387 $189
• Internal: 185(W) x 120(D) x 75(H)mm
• External: 210(W) x 135(D) x 90(H)mm
• Internal: 510(W) x 292(D) x 175(H)mm
• External: 530(W) x 355(D) x 225(H)mm
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
$
24
7495
USB Mini Inspection Camera
95
HB-6387
WITH 7M FLEXIBLE CABLE QC-3374
Water resistant inspection camera with a massive flexible 7m cable
which remains rigid allowing you to probe into all sorts of hard to
reach places. Plug it into your laptop and view the camera live, record
videos, and take snapshots 10mm camera head outer diameter.
• Hook, magnet and 45° mirror attachments
• 4 white LEDs (brightness adjustable)
• Compatible with Windows XP, Vista, 7, 8
See terms & conditions on page 8.
Page 3
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
1395
$
Budget 150mm
1995
$
NEW Digital Vernier Calipers TD-2081 100W Large
4
$ 95
Multifunction Pocket Tool
Glue Gun TH-1999
Easy to use calibrated digital display with
corresponding etched vernier scale.
• 150mm measurement range
• 245mm Overall length (closed)
• Includes 1 x CR2032 battery
TH-1838
Made from stainless steel. Features a can opener,
screwdriver, ruler, bottle opener, 4 position
ALSO AVAILABLE:
spanners, saw blade, directional auxiliary indication
PRECISION DIGITAL VERNIER CALIPERS
and a lanyard hole. Supplied with pouch.
TD-2082 $39.95
• 68(L) x 45(W) x 2(D)mm
Great for repairs to timber, cardboard, paper and
many household materials.
• Trigger controlled glue feed
• Mains powered
• Requires 12mm diameter glue sticks (2 supplied)
GLUE STICKS PACK OF 6 TH-1995 $4.95
$
Handy Tools
FOR NETWORK INSTALLERS TH-1740
Cat5 Adjustable Punch-Down Tool
Designed for seating wire into terminal blocks
and has an adjustable internal impact mechanism.
Supplied with 88 blade. 152mm long.
GLUE STICKS PACK OF 45 TH-1996 $17.95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
30W MINI GLUE GUN TH-1997 $12.95
$
1995
$
$
6 Piece Insulated Electronic
Screwdriver Set TD-2026
Ergonomic handles with excellent non-slip grips.
Fully insulated 1000V rated shafts. Storage case
included. Slotted: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm. Phillips:
#00, #0, #1. TÜV and GS approved.
ALSO AVAILABLE:
1,000V 7 PIECE SCREWDRIVER SET
TD-2022 $34.95
$
Rotary Tool Kits
WITH QUICK INTERCHANGEABLE DIES TH-2000 $49.95
Uses quick interchangeable dies, no screwdriver needed. Features
ratchet mechanism for maximum power and quick release.
BNC/TNC RG58/59/62
TH-2004 $17.95
F CONNECTORS CATV RG6/59
TH-2005 $17.95
SAVE $5
35 Piece Multi-purpose
Precision Tool Kit
WITH VINYL CASE TD-2117
A precision screwdriver tool set consisting of 30
110 PIECE TD-2451 WAS $34.95 NOW
bits, two cutters, two pliers and a flexible shaft
$29.95 SAVE $5
adaptor for those tricky to reach screws. Ideal for
210 PIECE WITH FLEXIBLE SHAFT TD-2459 electronic tradesmen and hobbyists.
WAS $54.95 NOW $49.95 SAVE $5
• 180(L) x 125(W) x 30(D)mm
Heavy Duty Crimp Tool
TH-2003 $17.95
29
95
3995
Drill, saw, sand, polish, carve or grind.
ONE CRIMP TOOL TO RULE THEM ALL
DIES TO SUIT:
6P6C RJ11/12 TH-2001 $17.95
8P8C RJ45 TH-2002 $17.95
INSULATED TERMINALS
FROM
NERD PERKS OFFER
ADD 3 DIES FOR
$
2295
5495
Electric Screw Driver Kit
102 PIECES TD-2491
A powerful high torque electric driver with a
massive array of stainless steel bits. Packaged in a
tough aluminium carry case.
• 3.6V
• 144(L) x 135(H) x 40(W)mm screwdriver
dimensions
• 250(L) x 153(H) x 88(D)mm case dimensions
CUTTERS AND CRIMPERS
40
SAVE $13.85*
NON-INSULATED TERMINALS
26-18AWG TH-2006 $17.95
NON-INSULATED TERMINALS
20-10AWG TH-2007 $17.95
SMA/FIBRE OPTIC 1.09-6.48MM
*Valid with
purchase of
TH-2000.
$
1295
$
6995
2-In-1 Crimp & Test Tool
TH-1939
An integrated cable stripper and cutter, with
detachable cable tester. It can quickly and easily test
Ethernet twisted pair cables for wiring continuity,
opens, shorts, and mis–wires. Includes PoE tester.
Precision side cutters ideal for fine PCB work.
Made from quality tool steel, with spring loaded soft • Suits 10P, 8P, 6P, 4P
• Single and multi–wired cable crimping
padded handles.
Precision 127MM
Angled Side Cutters TH-1897
TH-2008 $17.95
SMA/FIBRE OPTIC 1.07-4.52MM
TH-2009 $17.95
DOUBLE POINTS FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS ON THESE ANTI-STATIC AND MAGNETIC ACCESSORIES
1395
$
9
$ 95
$
1295
$
Conductive Brush
TH-1775
The handle is made from conductive plastic, and the
comb from conductive nylon. Use it to clean anything
where static is a problem.
• Features a conductive plastic handle and conductive
nylon comb
• 10k - 10m Ohm resistivity
• 178mm long
Page 4
Anti Static Wrist Strap TH-1780
Use when static electricity is a problem when soldering.
• Consists of adjustable velcro wrist strap, coiled lead
and banana plug/alligator clip
• Expanded lead length approx. 1.8 m
ALSO AVAILABLE:
3M COILED LEAD TH-1781 $17.95
8x10 Inch Magnetic Mat TH-1867
This mat is great for keeping nuts and bolts in place
when disassembling all kinds of gadgets and phones.
Note: The magnetic side of the mat is the "Whiteboard"
side which allows you to write references or notes next to
the nuts and bolts.
• 254(W) x 203(H)mm
Follow us at twitter.com/jaycarAU
2995
Large Rare Earth Magnets
PAIR LM-1652
They are made from NdFeB (Neodymium Iron Boron),
providing the highest available magnetic energy of any
material. Suitable for a wide variety of
applications. Nickel coating. Sold as a pair.
• NdFeB, N35 Grade
• 19mm Dia x 28.2mm Long
Catalogue Sale 24 May - 23 June, 2016
EVERYTHING ESSENTIAL FOR YOUR WORKBENCH
WE WANT YOU
$
1995
$
Board not
included.
Desktop PCB Holder
WITH ADJUSTABLE ANGLE TH-1980
A versatile holder suitable for working with different
shaped components, connectors, soldering strips,
etc. Also good for field service work.
• Maximum holding size is 200(L) x 140(W)mm
• 300(L) x 165(W) x 125(H)mm
NOW
2495
109
$
SAVE $5
LED Headband Magnifier
QM-3511 WAS $29.95
This magnifying headset leaves both hands free and
can be worn over prescription or safety glasses.
• Adjustable head strap
• Built-in LED work light
• 1.5x, 3x, 8.5x or 10x magnification.
• Requires 2 x AAA batteries
Desk Mount LED Laboratory
Magnifier Lamp QM-3546
This is a high quality, all metal frame
construction magnifier. Features 90 super bright
LEDs. and a quick repositioning metal handle.
• Total extended length 900mm
• Includes generous 2 metre long cord
Universal Drill Press
Stand TD-2463
$
3995
Vacuum Bench Vice
WITH 75MM JAW TH-1766
High quality vacuum vice made from diecast
aluminium. Consists of a vacuum base, ball joint
clamp and a 75mm opening jaw with removable soft
rubber jaw covers.
• Working position can be varied through a full
360° axis
• Approximately 160mm tall
Convert your standard power drill or
rotary tool into a drill press with this
adjustable stand.
Can be adjusted to suit a variety
of tools. Features heavy duty cast
metal base and frame for excellent
stability.
• Drilling depth: Up to 60mm
• 497(H) x 350(W) x 160(D)mm
$
3995
JOIN OUR LOYALTY CLUB
NERD PERKS CLUB MEMBERS RECEIVE:
10% OFF
ALL SOLDER ROLLS
& HOBBY PACKS
Duratech Solder
179
$
60% Tin / 40% Lead.
1kg Digital Bench Scale
QM-7264
Precision 1kg electronic scale with 0.01g
resolution accuracy. Weighs in grams, ounces,
pounds, grains, carats, troy ounces. Supplied
with a wind shield and a built-in bubble level.
• Powered by included mains adapter or 4 x AA
batteries (not included)
• 175(W) x 75(H) x 260(D)mm
1KG ROLLS
0.71MM NS-3002 $74.95
1.00MM NS-3015 $74.95
200G ROLLS
0.71MM NS-3005 $15.95
1.00MM NS-3010 $15.95
HOBBYPACK CANNISTERS
0.71MM NS-3008 $1.95
1.00MM NS-3013 $1.95
SOLDERING
FROM
1
$ 95
Lead-Free Solder
99.3% Tin / 0.7% Copper.
Goot
Desoldering
Tool TH-1856
FREE 200G ROLL .71mm SOLDER
FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS*
NS-3005 Valid with purchase of TS-1430
*
High quality GOOT
brand desoldering tool.
Japanese built quality and
a large vacuum chamber
for strong suction.
• 330mm long
$
2795
7995
$
NS-3005 VALUED AT $15.95
Goot 80W 240V Soldering Iron
TS-1430
With its high insulation and low current leakage, soldering of
precision flat ICs and CMOS is safe. 320° Tip temperature.
Exceptional heat recovery. Japanese made.
NOW
149
$
Portasol Super Pro SAVE $10
Gas Soldering Tool Kit
TS-1328 WAS $159
Your companion for any soldering need. Includes:
• Quality storage case.
• Cleaning sponge and tray
• 2.4mm & 4.8mm double flat tip
• Hot air blow, knife tip & deflector
200G ROLLS
0.71MM NS-3088 $24.95
1.00MM NS-3094 $24.95
500G ROLLS
0.71MM NS-3090 $49.95
1.00MM NS-3096 $59.95
HOBBYPACK CANNISTERS
Contains 15-20G weight
0.71MM NS-3086 $2.95
1.00MM NS-3092 $2.95
2
Gas sold separately NA-1020 $5.95.
AEROSOLS, ADHESIVES & TAPES
175g Aerosol Service
Chemical Spray Cans
GAFFA TAPE ON STEROIDS!
NM-2836
ELECTRONIC CLEANING
SOLVENT NA-1004
CONTACT CLEANER
LUBRICANT NA-1012
ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT BOARD
CLEANER NA-1008
CIRCUIT BOARD LACQUER
NA-1002
FROM
$ 95
1495
$
25ml J-B Weld Epoxy
11ea50
$
NA-1004
NA-1518
An easy, convenient and inexpensive alternative
to welding, soldering and brazing. Two-part epoxy
resin when mixed together forms a compound as
tough as steel - and with similar properties. Bonds
to almost any surface.
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
Liquid
Electrical Tape
FROM
1595
$
Seals and protects electrical connections. It
won't crack, peel or harden even under extreme
conditions.
28G TUBE BLACK NM-2836 $15.95
28G TUBE RED NM-2838 $15.95
118ML CAN BLACK NM-2832 $29.95
118ML CAN RED NM-2834 $29.95
See terms & conditions on page 8.
$
2995
Silicone Rescue Tape NA-2829
Permanent air-tight and water-tight seal in
emergency situations. Designed for quick plumbing
repairs, sealing hoses, coating ends etc. Will repair
a broken radiator hose (in most cases).
• 25mm wide x 3.6m roll
Page 5
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE MODULES AND SHIELDS
NEW
9
$ 95
1095
$
9
$ 95
3 Axis Compass Magnetometer
Arduino Compatible Alcohol
Module ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
XC-4496
Sensor Module
This module allows you to take accurate compass
bearings, no matter how it is orientated. Easily
interfaced via I²C.
• Includes 5V - 3V level shifter.
• 20(L) x 16(H) x 5(H)mm
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4540
The analogue output can be used to monitor
changes in alcohol concentration, while a digital
output is triggered when the concentration exceeds
a pre-set threshold.
• 5VDC
• Adjustable sensitivity
• 50(L) x 20(W) x 13(H)mm
$
4495
MIDI Shield
Sensor Expansion Shield
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4452
Connecting 3-pin analog sensors in a snap. Also
includes 4-pin communications port that can be set
for either UART or I²C. Plug and Play connection for
servos, sensors, switches and more!
• 68(W) x 57(D) x18(H)mm
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4545
Add musical instruments by giving your Arduino
project a powerful MIDI communication protocol.
The MIDI protocol shares many similarities with
standard asynchronous serial interfaces, so you
can use the UART pins of your microcontroller to
send and receive MIDI’s event messages. The MIDI
Breakout provides both MIDI-IN and MIDI-OUT
connections, as well as a MIDI-THRU port.
9
$ 95
5
$ 95
PIR Motion Detector Module
ARDUINO COMPATIBLE XC-4444
A pyroelectric infrared PIR motion sensor is a handy
addition to any Arduino® project. Wide operating
range and delay times changeable. A must for any
security application.
• 32(L) x 24(W) x 25(H)mm
®
NEW
7
Obstacle Avoidance Module
$ 95
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4524
Line Trace Sensor Module
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4474
This module measures the reflectivity of a surface
with an infrared emitter/detector pair.
• VCC/OUT/GND pin connector
• 2.5-12V power supply
• 18-20mA at 5V working current
NEW
An inexpensive solution for an IR obstacle
avoidance sensor, easy interface with Arduino®
& compatible boards. Adjustable frequency and
intensity. 4 pin header.
• 42(L) x 27(W) x 18(H)mm
129
$
Deluxe Modules Package
XC-4288
Get more savings by purchasing this 37 modulesin-1 pack. Includes commonly used sensors and
modules for duinotech and Arduino®: joystick,
magnetic, temperature, IR, LED and more.
NEW
$
3995
NEW
Motor Shield
$
2995
$
3495
Screw Shield
RS485 Shield
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4553
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4554
The Screw Shield extends all pins of the Arduino
out to 3.5mm pitch screw terminals. The
screw terminal blocks allow sturdy, secure and
dependable prototyping without the need for
soldering.
Add a RS485 port to Arduino using this handy
shield.
• Comes fully assembled with shield stacking
headers
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4556
Perfect for robotics and mechanical applications.
• Enables the Arduino to drive two brushed DC
motors or one 4-wire two-phase stepper motor.
• Requires a 6V to 15V power supply
• Includes an on-board 5V voltage regulator for
powering the main Arduino board.
• PWM speed control mode
• 4 Direction indicator lights
• Extra large heat sink
• Supports up to 14 servos
$
5995
Bluetooth 4.0 Shield
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE XC-4549
Brings the latest Bluetooth 4.0 BLE (Bluetooth Low
Energy) to Arduino. A single button battery (such
as 3V 220mAh CR2032) on a Bluetooth 4.0 single
mode chip could work for months or years. Startup
time is only a few milliseconds compared to about 4
seconds on the Bluetooth 2.1.
SAVE 15% ON THESE FREETRONICS MODULES & SHIELDS
NOW
8
NOW
1950
$ 45
$
SAVE $1.50
$
SAVE $3.45
Shift Register
Expansion Module
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
XC-4240 WAS $9.95
Drive up to 8 devices using just 3 pins on your
microcontroller. Daisy-chain them together to
drive 16 channels or even more without sacrificing
precious output pins. 2 to 6V operation.
• Blue power LED
• 23(W) x 16(H) x 4(D)mm
Page 6
NOW
2595
SAVE $4.50
Axis
Accelerometer Module
Humidity &
Temperature Sensor Module
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
XC-4226 WAS $22.95
Operates in either +/-1.5g or +/-6g ranges, giving
your project the ability to tell which way is up.
• Independent X, Y, and Z axis outputs
• Can run from either 5V or 3.3V
• Zero-G free-fall detection
• 23(L) x 15(W)mm
XC-4246 WAS $29.95
Measure temperature and relative humidity using a
simple interface that requires just three wires to the
sensor: GND, power, and data. 3 to 5V operation.
• -4°C to +125°C temp. range, +/-0.5°C accuracy
• 0.5Hz sample rate (one sample every 2 seconds)
• 31(W) x 23(H) x 4(D)mm
Follow us at facebook.com/jaycarelectronics
$
NOW
2970
SAVE $5.25
RFID Door Lock Shield
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
XC-4215 WAS $34.95
Control a door lock using an electric strike plate
and a RFID module. Example source code online.
• Output to control 12V electric door strike
• Supported readers include ID12, ID20, RDM630,
RDM880, and HF MultiTag
• Onboard voltage regulator to power Arduino®
• 49(W) x 54(D) x 27(H)mm
Catalogue Sale 24 May - 23 June, 2016
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE ACCESSORIES AND DIY ESSENTIALS
SEE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON
www.jaycar.com.au/rct
ARDUINO® PROJECT FOR NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS
Build Your Own Resistor
And Capacitor Tester
If like us you're always having to sort through your junk drawer and have trouble with
your colour codes, here's a handy project for you. This tester will try to work out whether
you are connected to a resistor or a capacitor and then show you the relevant value. If
it’s a resistor, it’ll also suggest the nearest resistor from the Jaycar ½W range. No more
sorting through your draws blindly!
NERD PERKS CLUB
VALUED OVER $73
BUNDLE DEAL INCLUDES:
UNO BOARD XC-4410 $29.95
PROTOTYPING SHIELD XC-4482 $15.95
LCD AND PUSHBUTTON SHIELD
BUY ALL FOR
$
59
SAVE OVER $14
XC-4454 $19.95
150R RESISTOR (½W) RR-0552 $0.55
1K2 RESISTOR (½W) RR-0574 $0.55
10K RESISTOR (½W) RR-0596 $0.55
PLUG-PLUG JUMPER LEADS WC-6024 $5.95
Completed project.
WC-6024
Resistors
XC-4454
XC-4482
XC-4410
MORE ARDUINO® ESSENTIALS
$
2995
Voltage Converter Module
FOR XC4350/52 PCDUINO XC-4362
This shield safely marries 5V Arduino shields with
the 3.3V pcDuino. This shield sits between the
pcDuino and the 5V shield and provides
bi-directional voltage translation.
• 70(L) x 50(W) x 4(D)mm
$
34
Assorted LED Pack
95
$
100 PIECE ZD-1694
Light Duty Hook-Up Wire Pack
8 COLOURS WH-3009
Quality tinned hook-up wire on plastic spools. 8
rolls included, each roll a different colour.
• 25m on each roll
3495
This assorted pack contains 3mm and 5mm LEDs
of mixed colours. Even includes FREE 10 x 5mm
mounting hardware.
pcDuino V3.0
WITH WI-FI XC-4350
149
$
pcDuino V3.0 is a high performance, cost effective
mini PC platform that runs on Ubuntu or Android
ICS. With onboard HDMI, USB, SATA, LVDS and
Wi-Fi you can use it in robotics, home theatre,
electronic control and other various applications.
• 121(L) x 65(W) x 15(H)mm
MUST HAVE TOOLS FOR YOUR ARDUINO® PROJECTS
New Enthusiast Starter Bundle
VALUED OVER $88
BUNDLE OFFER
BUY ALL FOR
The ideal starter package for young electronics enthusiasts
or the home handyman, especially so if an Arduino® fan.
TH-1987
25W SOLDERING IRON SET TS-1652 $39.95
BENCHTOP WORK MAT HM-8100 $12.95
ROSIN SOLDERING FLUX NS-3070 $15.95
PCB HOLDER WITH MAGNIFYING GLASS & CLIPS TH-1987 $19.95
$
69
SAVE OVER $19
TS-1652
EARN A POINT FOR EVERY DOLLAR
SPENT AT ANY JAYCAR COMPANY
STORE* & BE REWARDED WITH A
$25 JAYCOINS GIFT CARD ONCE YOU
REACH 500 POINTS!
Conditions apply. See website for T&Cs
*
REGISTER ONLINE TODAY BY VISITING:
HM-8100
www.jaycar.com.au/nerdperks
NS-3070
To order phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
See terms & conditions on page 8.
Page 7
CLEARANCE
SAVE UP TO 60%
300mm (12") Copper Cable Shears
10 Piece Reinforced Plastic Tool Set
TD-2116 WAS WAS $4.95
A must have for all hobby enthusiasts, this tool set prevents
any damage to the fasteners (screws & nuts) on your projects.
With its insulating properties, you will also be safe from
electrical current and dangerous chemicals.
NOW
2
$ 95
SAVE 40%
TH-1900 WAS $24.95
Super heavy duty cutters featuring a precision cutting head forged
from carbon steel attached to drop forged steel handles for extra
leverage. Designed to cut copper cable up to 35mm² you can slice
through just about any cable up to 2 gauge. The handles are coated to
prevent corrosion and have rubber grips for operator comfort.
• 310(L) x 90(W) x 40(H)mm
NOW
1495
$
SAVE $10
Smartphone Sensor Plug-in Modules
WITH APP WERE $34.95
Turn your Smartphone into a pocket environment meter. Choose between four plug-in sensors. By using a
free downloadable APP for your iOS® and Android® device, you can see real time measurements or trigger
an alarm when a pre determined measurement is reached.
30 Amp SPDT Relay - Standard Size
SY-4072 WAS $7.45
PCB version of standard 30A horn type relay. Whilst
designed for auto horns, this relay is ideal for any high
current application i.e. burglar alarms, ignition cutout,
transmitters, car spotlights etc.
• Contact current (max) 40A
• Contact voltage (nom) 12V
• PC pin tab termination
NOW
2
$ 95
SAVE 60%
PLUG-IN GEIGER MODULE QM-1676
PLUG-IN UV MODULE QM-1677
PLUG-IN ELECTROMAGNETIC SENSOR QM-1678
PLUG-IN TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY SENSOR QM-1679
QM-1676
$
NOW
ea
2995
SAVE $5
12 Compartment Portable
Storage Cabinet HB-6301 WAS $44.95
Plastic Molded Enclosure
DARK GREY
HB-6036 WAS $18.95
Includes removable front and rear panels.
Designed to IP54 of IEC 529 and NEMA4 with
respect to moisture and dust proof sealing,
flame retardent to UL94-VO.
• 190(W) x 100(D) x 40(H)mm
NOW
9
$ 95
The system features a "double lock" closure on each storage box.
• 2 x large 295(W) x 65(D) x 65(H)mm
(all are 65(D) x 65(H)mm)
• 4 medium 145(W)
• 6 small measuring 95(W)mm
• Attaché-case: 300(W) x 310(H) x 145(D)mm
$
NOW
3495
SAVE $10
SAVE 47%
Professional Digital Light Meter
Drill Assistant with User Leveller
WITH COVER & CASE QM-1584 WAS $169
TD-2151 WAS $19.95
Drill holes in walls easily, on the level and with no mess.
Built-in laser and level. Has vacuum suction, drill guide,
and dust catcher.
• Requires 2 x AA batteries
• 238(L) x 100(W) x 48(H)mm
NOW
1595
$
SAVE 20%
Uses photopic spectral sensitivity to measure light
level in terms of Foot Candles(FC) or LUX over a
wide range. Includes a long-life silicon photo diode
sensor, min & max measurements, easy to read backlit
display and data hold.
NOW
129
$
SAVE $40
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, DOUBLE POINTS & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / Nerd Perks Card membership at time of purchase.
Refer to website for Rewards/ Nerd Perks Card T&Cs. ON PAGE 1: Nerd Perk Card holders receive a free 200G 1mm Roll Solder (NS-3010) with the purchase of TS1584. Special price for PB-8816. ON PAGE 2: Special price for the
following items: Qm-1500 and QM-1524. Double points with the purchase of HB-6361, SF-2278, SF-2279 and SF-2277. ON PAGE 3: Nerd Perk Card holders receive a free Pro Leather Tool Utility Belt (HB-6373) with the purchase
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS CARD HOLDERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, DOUBLE POINTS & REWARDS OFFERS requires active Jaycar Rewards Card membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for
of QM-1561, QM-1563 or QM1566. Special price for the following items: QP-2310, QM-1589 and AA-0405. ON PAGE 4: Special price for the following items: TD-2451 and TD-2459. Double points when you purchase TH-1838,
Rewards Card T&Cs. DOUBLE POINTS FOR REWARDS CARD HOLDERS is for purchase of specified product listed on page. DOUBLE POINTS OFFER on PAGE 2 is for YN-8204, YN-8205, YN-8206, YN-8207, YN-8208,
TD-2081, TH-1897, TH-1775, TH-1781, TH-1867, and LM-1652. Nerd Perks offer for additional dies with TH-2000 applies to any three from TH-2001/02/03/04/05/06/07/08/09/10 for $40 saving $13.85. ON PAGE 5: Nerd perk card
YN-8294, YN-8295, YN-8296, YN-8297, WB-2020 or WB-2030. REWARDS CARD HOLDERS BUY 2 & SAVE DEALS on PAGE 2 are for YN-8410, YN-8077, YN-8078, YN-8326, YN-8328, YN-8348, YN-8352 or YN-8354.
holders receive free 200G roll .71mm Solder (NS-3005) with the purchase of TS-1430. Special price for the following items: QM-3511 and TS-1328. Double points with the purchase of NA-1004, NA-1012, NA-1008, NA-1002,
REWARDS CARD HOLDERS 15% OFF on PAGE 5 is for HB-5430, HB-5432, HB-5434, YN-8046, YN-8048, HB-5420, HB-5422, HB-5424, HB-5426, HB-5450, HB-5452, HB-5454 or MS-4094. See in-store for full details.
NA-1518, NS-3002, NS-3015, NS-3005, NS-3010, NS3008, NS-3013, NS-3088, NS-3094, NS-3090, NS-3096, NS-3086 and NS-3092. ON PAGE 6: Special price for the following items: XC-4240, XC-4226, XC-4246 and XC-4215.
SAVINGS OFF ORIGINAL RRP (ORRP). DOUBLE POINTS accrued during the promotion period will be allocated to the Rewards Card after the end of promotion.
ON PAGE 7: Nerd Perk Card holders will receive XC-4410, XC-4482, XC-4454, RR-0552, RR-0574, RR-0596 and WC-6024 for $59 saving $14. New Enthusiasts Starter Bundle deal applies to TS-1652, HM-8100, NS-3070 and Th1987 for the price of $69 saving over $19. DOUBLE POINTS ACCRUED DURING THE PROMOTION PERIOD WILL BE ALLOCATED TO THE NERD PERKS CARD AFTER THE END OF THE PROMOTION. DOUBLE POINTS ACCRUED DURING
THE PROMOTION PERIOD will be allocated to the Nerd Perks card after the end of the month.
Australian Capital Territory
South Australia
Port Macquarie
Ph (02) 6581 4476
Nth Rockhampton
Ph (07) 4922 0880
Belconnen
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Rydalmere
Ph (02) 8832 3120
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8221 5191
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6239 1801
Shellharbour
Ph (02) 4256 5106
Strathpine
Ph (07) 3889 6910
Clovelly Park
Ph (08) 8276 6901
Tuggeranong
Ph (02) 6293 3270
Smithfield
Ph (02) 9604 7411
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
Elizabeth
Ph (08) 8255 6999
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gepps Cross
Ph (08) 8262 3200
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Modbury
Ph (08) 8265 7611
Tuggerah
Ph (02) 4353 5016
Reynella
Ph (08) 8387 3847
Tweed Heads
Ph (07) 5524 6566
Wagga Wagga
Warners Bay
New South Wales
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Alexandria
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Blacktown
Ph (02) 9672 8400
Bondi Junction
Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown
Ph (02) 4625 0775
Castle Hill
Ph (02) 9634 4470
Coffs Harbour
Ph (02) 6651 5238
Croydon
Ph (02) 9799 0402
Browns Plains
Ph (07) 3800 0877
Dubbo
Ph (02) 6881 8778
Caboolture
Ph (07) 5432 3152
Erina
Ph (02) 4367 8190
Cairns
Ph (07) 4041 6747
Gore Hill
Ph (02) 9439 4799
Caloundra
Ph (07) 5491 1000
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Capalaba
Ph (07) 3245 2014
Hurstville NEW
Ph (02) 9580 1844
Ipswich
Ph (07) 3282 5800
Maitland
Ph (02) 4934 4911
Labrador
Ph (07) 5537 4295
Mona Vale
Ph (02) 9979 1711
Mackay
Ph (07) 4953 0611
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4968 4722
Maroochydore
Ph (07) 5479 3511
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Victoria
Cheltenham
Ph (03) 9585 5011
Ph (02) 6931 9333
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Ph (02) 4954 8100
Ferntree Gully
Ph (03) 9758 5500
Warwick Farm
Ph (02) 9821 3100
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4225 0969
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Hallam
Ph (03) 9796 4577
Kew East
Ph (03) 9859 6188
Melbourne City
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Melton
Ph (03) 8716 1433
Mornington
Ph (03) 5976 1311
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Roxburgh Park
Ph (03) 8339 2042
Shepparton
Ph (03) 5822 4037
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
Sunshine
Ph (03) 9310 8066
Launceston
Ph (03) 6334 2777
Thomastown
Ph (03) 9465 3333
Werribee
Ph (03) 9741 8951
Queensland
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Western Australia
Belmont NEW
Ph (08) 9477 3527
Bunbury
Ph (08) 9721 2868
Joondalup
Ph (08) 9301 0916
Maddington
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Mandurah
Ph (08) 9586 3827
Midland
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Northbridge
Ph (08) 9328 8252
O’Connor
Ph (08) 9337 2136
Osborne Park
Ph (08) 9444 9250
Rockingham
Ph (08) 9592 8000
Tasmania
Northern Territory
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring your local store to check stock details. Savings off Original RRP.
Prices and special offers are valid from 24 May - 23 June, 2016.
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph:
(02) 8832 3100
Fax:
(02) 8832 3169
ONLINE ORDERS
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Email:
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Occasionally there are discontinued items
advertised on a special / lower price in this
promotional flyer that has limited to nil
stock in certain stores, including Jaycar
Authorised Stockist. These stores may not
have stock of these items and can not order
or transfer stock.
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Putting the wind up an anemometer
When the wind blows but the anemometer
doesn’t go, it should be a breeze to fix.
Actually, Dad’s entire weather station was
playing up but first, I had to figure out why
the batteries in his transistor radio were
quickly going flat.
I got a call from Dad the other day,
asking if I could help him out with a
couple of jobs that he can no longer
do. It’s tough seeing time taking its
inevitable toll and watching my oncecapable father growing old just doesn’t
seem fair somehow.
Once upon a time, he could repair
anything and I’ll never forget the story
one of his friends from his younger
days told me. Apparently, they’d taken
their motorbikes on an up-country run
and the friend’s bike had spluttered to
a stop out in the middle of nowhere.
No problem for Dad; he took out his
tool kit and stripped down the bike’s
engine by the roadside and while his
mate couldn’t recall exactly what had
been wrong with it, it ran well enough
after it had been re-assembled to get
them home.
There were other times too, like
when we got stranded out in the middle of the ocean in a boat because the
“V” drive failed. On that occasion, Dad
jury-rigged something up so we could
limp back to port. It seemed that no
matter what pickle we got into, Dad
could fix it. I loved that feeling of security and it was only natural I’d become a serviceman; it’s in my blood.
Over the past few years, Dad has
been breaking down his workshop and
it’s now strangely empty. The various
machines and tools have gone to either
my brother or to myself but I doubt
they’ll ever be used as they were in
Dad’s workshop.
He still has the basics though; a soldering station and other smaller tools
and it was these I used recently to repair his old Panasonic workshop radio.
This particular transistorised receiver
has been in his workshop longer than
I can remember and with its leather
case and strap, it’s the epitome of the
late 1960s to early 1970s style of portable radio.
I well remember working in his
workshop after school, listening to the
latest music (and the rubbish the DJs
always seemed to come out with) on
this radio, so it really was part of the
furniture. I doubt that anything made
today would last anything near as long
as this one but now it had a problem.
Flat batteries
A couple of months ago, Dad finally
got around to putting some batteries
in it after it had been sitting silent on
a shelf for some years. It initially appeared to work OK but when he tried
it the following day, the batteries had
gone flat overnight, even though it had
siliconchip.com.au
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Fixing a weather station
Electric plunge furnace repair
Kenwood TS-450S transceiver
Beyonwiz DP-P2 HD PVR
been switched off. Thinking he might
have chosen some half-flat batteries
from the pile in his battery drawer,
he replaced them with some known
good cells and the same thing happened; they were dead flat the following morning.
Obviously, something was draining
the batteries but what? Could the workshop elves be coming out and partying
all night? It was up to me to find out!
Years ago, in an effort to avoid going
broke due to constantly buying batteries to feed this radio, Dad had installed
a power socket so he could run the
radio from a small plugpack supply
instead. This simply involved breaking the positive line from the battery
holder to the circuit board and wiring
the socket so that when the plugpack
supply was plugged in, the battery
was disconnected. Conversely, when
the plug was removed, it would run
on batteries once again.
Basically, the socket had to be wired
this way because the batteries weren’t
rechargeable types and wouldn’t take
kindly to being connected across an
external power supply!
To be honest, I was half-expecting to
open it up and find everything covered
in leaked battery gunk. It’s so easy to
leave batteries sitting in a device and
forget all about it, only to come back
years later and find it in a sorry (and
usually non-working) state. I’ve done
it myself, leaving many very cool and
probably now highly-collectible toys
and other 60s-era gadgets ruined.
The goo that leaks out of old, dead
batteries can be highly corrosive and
it tends to attack everything it touches.
Over the years, I’ve often had to tell
customers who have left batteries in
June 2016 57
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devices that those items were now
fit only for the rubbish bin. It’s a real
shame, because it’s a totally avoidable
waste of good electronic gear.
Anyway, when I got to the radio, I
discovered that Dad and my sister had
already had a go at it. Impatient, like
many good servicemen, Dad had “sis”
take the covers off and, acting as his
eyes, have a look to see if they could
determine what was going on. My sister
isn’t really into electronics, so it isn’t
surprising that she and Dad couldn’t
find anything wrong.
When it was shown to me, I was
pleasantly surprised to find there
were no leaked batteries; just a wire
adrift from the old power socket. Dad
mentioned it’d come off when they
were poking around in there but that
I should be able to see where it came
from and take that into account when
trying to find out what was going on.
I removed the already-loosened case
and had a good look around inside it.
I could see the power socket that Dad
had put in all those years ago and it
was now looking very old and corrod-
ed. It also looked to be a bit
mangled, as if something
other than a plug had been
forced into it at some stage.
On closer inspection, the
spring-loaded contact that
broke the battery circuit
when the power plug was
inserted appeared to have
been twisted around and
appeared to be shorting out
across the other contacts.
My guess was that it was
this that was draining the
batteries.
Dad wasn’t interested in
keeping the power socket
there so I just fired up his
soldering iron, de-soldered
all the wires that were left
on the socket and reinstated the original connections directly from the
battery holder to the PCB. However,
before I connected the positive lead, I
put my multimeter in series with the
wiring and after setting it to measure
current, turned the radio on. It drew
around 15mA at medium volume,
which seemed reasonable to me and
certainly wouldn’t drain the three Csized batteries overnight.
Finally, I reconnected everything,
replaced the back, switched the set on
and marvelled at how much better this
radio sounded than anything else I’d
heard in a long time. They really don’t
make them like they used to!
Weather station
With the radio now working, my
next job involved taking a look Dad’s
weather station. My parents have had
this station for years; it consists of a
bunch of stuff sitting at the top of a
3-metre pole rising from a deck at the
front of the house and an LCD screen
in a frame hanging on a wall in the
lounge room. The two sections con-
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so, why not send those stories in to us? In doesn’t
matter what the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the electronics
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58 Silicon Chip
nect wirelessly, the sensors on the top
of the pole sending the data to the base
unit which displays all the relevant information, including indoor/outdoor
temperature, humidity, air pressure,
wind speed and direction and rainfall.
As well as showing all this weather
information, the touch-screen base
unit also shows the date and time. At
least, it should display all that stuff
but there were a few issues with Dad’s
unit. For a start, the wind speed indicator showed nothing, which wasn’t
surprising as the anemometer had lost
most of one of the three little cups it
uses to catch the wind and measure
its speed. This meant that the device
didn’t turn much at all, leaving a flatline display on the base unit.
Several other functions were also
displaying either a “0” or flat-lining,
indicating that the batteries in the remote sensors were probably dead (or
dying).
Dad had reminded me to bring over
some tools to drop the pole and so
armed with a Phillips screwdriver I
first removed the screws holding the
supporting brackets. After carefully
removing the last one, I then gently
lowered the pole down before laying
it on the deck in order to get to the
sensor units.
Before I could do anything though, I
had to remove the mass of cobwebs and
dead insects that seemed to fill every
nook and cranny of the array. I had to
be a careful though, as the plastic was
almost powdery in places due to UV
and weather exposure.
There was nothing for it but to remove the anemometer entirely so that I
could take it home and fit another cup
to it. To do this, I had to undo three
small machine screws and carefully
release the wire from the clips holding it in place along the plastic shaft.
A few of these clips literally shattered
as I put pressure on them, such was
the state of the framework.
With that part clear, I needed to
remove some of the plastic covers in
order to unplug the anemometer unit.
The device utilises RJ11 plugs and
sockets (the same as US-style phone
connectors) and these are removed by
pushing a small plastic tab in on one
side in order to release the plug from
the socket.
Once again, spider webs and the
remains of their insect meals were
everywhere underneath the covers,
which probably wouldn’t be helping
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the accuracy of some of the sensors!
Indeed, some webs were so thick I literally had to push them off with the
screwdriver and then pull them away
with my fingers.
Finally, I uncovered the battery compartment and removed the two old AAsize cells. One had started leaking a
little, so they had obviously done their
dash, with Dad complaining tonguein-cheek that batteries don’t last like
they used to, as these had only been
in service six or seven years! I gave
the terminals a quick rub over to make
sure there was nothing on them, then
installed two new cells and replaced
the battery cover.
Leaving the anemometer to one side,
I then hoisted the pole with one hand
and attached the supporting brackets with the other. We then made our
way inside and tried the base unit but,
rather disappointingly, it still showed
nothing. Suspecting that the problem
may lie in the base unit itself, I took it
down and replaced the batteries with
fresh ones, even though Dad had told
me that he’d recently changed them
because he thought that might be why
it hadn’t been displaying the data from
the sensors.
When I put the last new cell in and
replaced the cover, most of the readings were now being displayed. The
wind speed wasn’t showing up because I had removed the anemometer
but the outside temperature wasn’t
showing up either, so there was still
a fault on the pole.
Once again, I went through the process of dropping the pole and removing all the covers. I was thinking that
perhaps the anemometer had to be
plugged in for the outside temperature to be shown; that maybe they
were on the same circuit, or something
like that.
I plugged the wind speed sensor
back in and checked the base unit,
which I’d cleverly taken with me to
save my ageing serviceman’s legs
from making repeated trips into and
out of the house. Of course, plugging
the anemometer back in had no effect
on the temperature reading (but you
probably already knew that) so I had
to look elsewhere.
I stripped the other sensors off again
and cleaned all the phone-style sockets, then made sure that the various
plugs had perfectly clean contacts
before putting everything back together again. This time, after “rebooting” the base unit again (by removing
and replacing the cells), all the figures
showed up and appeared to be accurate, if the old mercury thermometer
mounted outside the house was any-
thing to go by. And so the pole went
back up again and the base unit was
placed back in its niche on the wall.
That just left the wind speed sensor
which I then took home with me. It’s
really just a brush-motor fitted with
three small hollow cups mounted at
120° intervals to catch the wind. Depending on the wind speed, the motor’s armature generates a small voltage
at the output of the field and this is
fed to the wireless sender via a single
RJ11 connector.
As mentioned, a large section of one
of the cups was missing. I’m not sure
how it got knocked off but going by the
state of the remaining plastic, heavy
rain drops could have done the job!
I thought that half a ping-pong ball
might make a good replacement so
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June 2016 59
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man’s Log – continued
Electric Plunge Furnace Repair
A simple but puzzling fault can completely cripple a large piece of industrial equipment. D. T. of Prospect, SA recently got a
large metal furnace going again with replacement parts costing less than $5.00 . . .
A friend’s brother recently rang me, enquiring if I had any experience with repairing electric smelting furnaces. Apparently,
they were in big trouble as no-one had been
able to repair their plunge furnace and they
desperately needed to get it going again.
This was definitely not in my normal line
of work but I’m always up for this kind of
challenge. And so I offered to have a look
at it and see if I could help.
It was just like a massive machine monster from a horror movie! It consisted of
a large crucible some two metres across
which could be tipped to pour molten metal
into moulds. I was fascinated to see recipe
books which listed the exact mix of different
scrap metals required (in carefully weighed
portions) in order to produce just the type
of metal needed for each project. Included
in their metal stockpile were copper pipes,
scrap stainless steel and even steel parts
from an old bike!
Three 150mm x 3m-long rods made of
what looked like carbon were suspended
at the ends of chains above the pot. These
were in turn connected to three motors
hanging from the roof. The control panel
consisted of three very large current meters with full-scale readings of over 250A,
press buttons to raise and lower the rods
and a power on/off switch with an auto
position.
It was all quite daunting, even while sitting there turned off and not moving.
When the power was turned on, it turned
into a loud fire-breathing monster. The rods
were lowered into the mix and as soon as
a rod touched the mix it started arcing
through the load to the crucible, causing
fireworks and lots of noise. The problem
quickly became apparent. As soon as an
arc was struck, two of the three rods would
correctly retreat and then return again to
maintain the arc and thus continue heating the metal.
By contrast, the third carbon rod just
continued to push on into the load. At the
same time, its associated current meter
was pinning its needle at full scale until
the whole system tripped out.
I began my troubleshooting procedure
by analysing how it was all meant to work.
The plunge motors on the carbon rods were
3-phase 1hp (750W) types driven by three
3-phase contactors, one to activate the
drawer and compared it with one of the
remaining cups for size. Amazingly, it
was exactly the same!
The problem now was cutting the
ball in half. I don’t know if you’ve ever
tried it, but cutting a ping-pong ball in
half is really, really difficult!
I initially tried using my old Dremel
Moto-Tool scroll saw but gave up after nearly taking one of my fingers off.
I did manage to cut about half-way
through the ball but in the interests
of keeping my fingers intact, did the
rest with a new blade in my scalpel.
Even then it was as rough as guts
but at least the ping-pong ball was
now in two bits. I cleaned up one half
down to the seam and then did the
same with the other half, which was
actually a little smaller than the first
one. I then smeared epoxy resin glue
over the inside of the smaller half and
glued it to the larger half, making sure
it lined up neatly.
Once hardened, this made the ball
very sturdy, and I made good use of
that to rub the edge down on a piece of
400-grit wet-and-dry sandpaper. After
sanding, it looked perfectly flat and I
then used the same resin to glue the
cup onto the remains of the previous
cup. It was impossible to tape it into
place while the glue set so I just sat
and held it for five minutes until the
glue hardened enough for me to sit it
on the bench to fully cure.
The finished job looked great and
the overall balance of the complete
assembly is good enough for this purpose. All I have to do now is put it
back up the pole and that’s job done!
60 Silicon Chip
Kenwood TS-450S transceiver
K. G., of One Tree Hill, SA recently had a Kenwood HF amateur-band
transceiver fall into his lap. The only
catch was that he had to get it working
before he could use it. Here’s how he
went about it . . .
I was recently given an amateur ra-
motor and the others to swap two of the
phases over to reverse the motor direction
and therefore the direction of the carbon
rod attached to it.
Each rod and motor was supplied from
the 3-phase supply via a large transformer
which I estimated to be rated at around
350kVA. In addition, each carbon rod had
a current sensor coil fitted to its supply
to monitor the current through that rod.
This obviously supplied a feedback circuit
to activate the reversing function of each
motor to maintain the arc from that particular carbon rod.
I found that I could raise or lower the
rods manually which indicated that the motors and any associated mechanical gear
were OK. That meant that the fault had to
be in the electronic control circuitry.
This control circuitry was spread across
three identical, sparsely-populated PCBs.
These PCBs were so old that they were
made from the now obsolete phenolic
material. Unfortunately, spare PCBs were
no longer available (and hadn’t been for
years), while obtaining a circuit diagram
was also out of the question.
In order to prove that the faulty rod’s
corresponding control PCB was the problem, I decided to swap it with one of the
other PCBs. They were reasonably easy to
unplug and remove, so I carefully labelled
all the wires and swapped them over. The
problem then moved to the other rod, so
the fault was definitely on the control board.
dio transceiver with the message that if
I could get it working and make use of
it, it was mine. It did not transmit and
the receiver was a little “deaf”, resulting in very little audio output.
The model concerned is a Kenwood
TS-450S which covers the HF amateur
bands from 1.8-30MHz and is rated at
100W PEP on transmit. In good working order, this model is still quite a capable transceiver, even though it is now
15-20 years old. As a result, I thought
it was worth spending some time on it
to see if I could fix its faults.
An age of 15-20 years may seem to
be quite old for electronic equipment,
given that so much gear is discarded
after just a few years. Some of it is now
binned in less than five years even if
it still working, the reason being that
it has been superseded by the latest
whiz-bang gizmo. However, amateur
radio equipment generally has a much
greater life-span than the average piece
of consumer electronics.
siliconchip.com.au
I took both the faulty unit and a good
board back to my workshop and had a
closer look at the circuit. It proved to be a
very basic feedback arrangement with an
output much like that used to control the
servo in a radio-controlled toy. I’ve fixed
hundreds of these but the scale was different for this job.
One advantage of being in the electronics game since the days of valve black and
white TV is that you accumulate a lot of
parts. The faulty board required a couple
of very early transistors on the outputs to
be replaced, since they had become leaky.
As it turned out, I had the exact devices in
stock, as they were used in some of the
first solid-state portable TV sets.
The two new transistors were duly fitted
and I then replaced a couple of electrolytic
capacitors which had high ESR readings. I
then returned to the monster and refitted
the two boards.
I had everything crossed when the Auto
button was pushed but it all worked perfectly, with the three amp meters settling
down to about half-scale and remaining surprisingly stable. What’s more, the mix was
reduced to liquid metal surprisingly quickly.
This was definitely a diversion from my
normal work but was very rewarding and
interesting. I found out later that if the repair hadn’t worked, a replacement furnace
would have had to have been purchased
and shipped from South Africa at massive expense.
With the radio set up on my testbench, I applied a 10µV signal in the
7MHz amateur band to the antenna
terminals and tuned it in. Despite this
strong input signal, the signal strength
meter showed only quite a low reading
and the audio level from the speaker
was anything but strong. That said,
the signal was there and was on the
expected frequency. So the various
local oscillators in the set were on the
correct frequencies.
Next, I connected the radio to a 50ohm dummy load with an RF power
meter in the line. Pressing the pushto-talk lever on the microphone and
whistling into the mike should have
produced an output power of 50W or
more but in this case, no output at all
was shown on my power meter or on
the radio’s internal meter.
Removing the top cover revealed a
large empty space where the optional
automatic antenna tuner would go.
There were several shielded boxes
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with other parts of the transceiver
in them, including (most likely) the
transmitter’s 100W power amplifier. I
concluded that the low-level parts in
the transmitter chain were underneath.
Although it was possible that the
fault lay in the power amplifier, I figured that the best place to start was
early in the transmit signal path. Fortunately, there was a comprehensive
user manual with the radio and this
included the circuit diagrams. These
showed that there were separate RF
and IF units in the set and these were
easily identified once the bottom cover
had been removed.
I expected that the audio signal from
the microphone would go to the IF unit
first, where it is converted to 455kHz.
However, when I attempted to transmit, I couldn’t detect any 455kHz signal at the output of the IF unit which
was clearly labelled on the circuit as
“TXIF” on pin 4 of connector W1.
However, there was obviously audio
coming from the microphone and there
was also audio on the output pin of the
microphone amplifier IC (IC15, pin 7).
From there, the signal path went to a
mic gain control on the front panel and
then through a further amplifier to balanced modulator stage IC8. Attempts
to transmit resulted in a 455kHz signal
at IC8’s output, so everything was OK
up to there.
Following the modulator is a set
of three ceramic filters with different
bandwidths, each selected according to
the mode of transmission. For example,
the 2.4kHz filter would normally be
selected for SSB mode. The selection
is done by diode switches and one of
the switched DC voltages which controls the diodes is called “TXB” which
I measured at a shade under 8V at the
input to the IF unit on pin 4 of CN1.
I then looked for the TXB voltage on
diodes D11 & D12 but the swing from
receive to transmit was nowhere near
what I had expected. Next, I looked
for the TXB voltage on pin 4 of CN5
but it was way below the 8V measured
previously on CN1, even though the
two connector pins are supposed to
be directly connected together. Now
we were getting somewhere.
Measuring the resistance between
the two connector pins resulted in a
reading in the kilohms region. It was
time to remove the IF PCB completely
for a close examination and that simply
involved undoing five or six screws
and unplugging all the connectors.
Once it was out, I put my multimeter
probes on the two connector pins for
another check and got the same high
reading as before. As an aside, I had
recently bought a pair of multimeter
probes with needle-sharp gold-plated
points. They’re just the shot for probing small pads and tracks on PCBs and
for poking through tarnished leads and
solder to get a good connection.
I followed the track from one connector pin to the other and soon found
the discontinuity at a small via. I then
noticed some black “gunk” on the
board which I realised had come from
a nearby large electrolytic capacitor.
On checking the circuit again, I discovered that this capacitor coupled signal
from the audio power amplifier to the
loudspeaker.
I checked this capacitor using my
trusty ESR meter and found that the
ESR was about 80Ω when it should
have been just a small fraction of an
ohm. No wonder the audio output level
was low on receive.
I replaced the faulty capacitor with
a new one and cleaned off as much
of the gunk as I could with isopropyl
alcohol (IPA). It was then necessary
to link the two connector pins with a
thin wire to restore continuity. With the
PCB back in place in the chassis and
all connectors replaced, I then tried the
transmitter again and was delighted to
find that it now worked. After making
a few adjustments, I found that I could
measure 120W peak at the output.
June 2016 61
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Beyonwiz HD PVR Repair
Regular contributor B. P. of Dundathu,
Qld likes to rescue and repair non-working PVRs that are advertised on eBay. He
bought this one for a song and repaired it
using parts on hand . . .
I recently noticed a Beyonwiz DP-P2
HD PVR listed on eBay as not working or
for parts. The auction had a few days to
run, with several bids already, so I kept
an eye on it. As the auction neared the
end, I placed a bid, which I considered a
fair price for a non-working unit. I’ve repaired a few Beyonwiz PVRs in the past,
so I thought I would take a chance on this
one as it was a top model in the Beyonwiz
range at the time.
I won the auction and the unit arrived
in the mail a few days later. To initially test
it, I plugged it into the power and fired it
up and sure enough, it stopped with “Error 0000” indicated on the display. I then
unplugged it and took the lid off. I hadn’t
heard the 500GB HDD running when I’d
first turned it on, so I unplugged the drive
cables, reconnected them and fired the
unit up again.
It still came up showing “Error 0000” but
I could now hear the HDD running. However, it was very quiet, which explained why
I couldn’t hear it with the lid on.
Things weren’t quite so rosy on
receive though. Certainly, the audio
output had improved and the sensitivity was better but it still wasn’t up to
scratch. The receiver’s internal noise
could be heard and in addition, there
was a faint but noticeable crackling in
the audio with no input to the radio.
Unplugging the RXIF input to the
IF unit at connector W1 gave a drop in
the noise but the crackling remained.
An IF gain trimpot is positioned halfway along the IF amplifier chain and
turning this right down reduced the
noise and crackling to zero. That meant
that the problem lay somewhere between the input to the IF board and
the trimpot.
To track this fault down, I first connected a 100nF capacitor across the
output of the first IF amplifier just
prior to the ceramic filters. The idea
here was that this would act as a short
circuit for the IF signal. The crackling
remained, so that meant that the fault
62 Silicon Chip
I then noticed some muck on one of the
larger electrolytic capacitors on the power
supply board. A closer look indicated that
the capacitor had “erupted” and I then
noticed that an identical one nearby was
slightly bulging at the top.
I whipped out my soldering iron and
allowed it to heat up while I removed the
power supply board. The two faulty capacitors were both 3300µF 10V types and
these were quickly replaced and the power
supply board refitted.
I fired the unit up again and the “Error
0000” message had now cleared. In its
place was a TV channel indicator on the
front panel, so I connected the unit via an
AV cable to a small TV set but I couldn’t
get a picture, despite pressing the TV-OUT
button on the remote to change the video
output several times.
I didn’t have a spare monitor or portable
TV with an HDMI input, so I took the unit
into my lounge room and hooked it up to
our main TV set. I then got a picture and
after connecting the antenna, I was able to
tune in all the local channels. A quick flick
through all the channels indicated that everything was working well, at least as far as
TV reception was concerned.
Next, I checked the recordings on the
was likely to be in the vicinity of the
ceramic filters. Just to be sure, I then
placed the 100nF capacitor across the
output of the ceramic filters and the
crackling disappeared.
I then remembered a similar problem that I had encountered in the past,
when leaking electrolyte from a faulty
capacitor had caused just the sort of
crackling I was hearing. What’s more,
the ceramic filters in the set I was working on were adjacent to the leaking capacitor I had replaced earlier and it was
quite possible that some of the goo had
spread out under one or more of them.
That meant that all three filters had
to come out so that the board could be
properly inspected. Removing them
from the closely packed board was a
bit of a challenge to say the least. Two
of them were small black rectangular
blocks with five pins, while the third
was a much larger device with a pair
of pins at each end and a ground pin
for the metal case.
HDD and found that the oldest recording
took place 24/8/11, while the most recent
one was on 10/11/12. This indicated that
the unit had been used for over a year but
had not been used to make any recordings
for the past three years. So was the unit
able to record properly?
It was time to find out. I set it up to record
a program for that evening and all worked
correctly. So the power supply had apparently failed in its first year of use.
In view of that, it’s likely that the unit
had been used in a poorly ventilated area
(possibly enclosed in a cabinet), which
caused the power supply to run hot and
the capacitors to fail. All the other capacitors were still good but the two that had
failed looked like a cheaper brand than the
others, so they were probably doomed to
fail anyway.
I used two recycled Nichicon capacitors
to replace the two faulty ones, so the unit
should now have a new lease on life. It will
eventually be used in our family room but I
will need to find a monitor or TV that has an
HDMI input, because it may not work on AV
on our current TV, although I can test that
later. In fact, it could well be the AV input
on our small TV that isn’t working and I’ll
check that when I get time.
And so another piece of useful (and still
reasonably modern) piece of equipment
was saved from the scrap heap. The best
part was that it cost nothing to repair it,
since I used recycled parts.
Eventually, I was able to remove
the three filters without damage to the
board and wasn’t surprised to see that
some of the black goo had spread under
the filter closest to the electro. Some
more cleaning with IPA ensued, followed by a blow-off with compressed
air. The filters were then reinstalled
and the board put back into the chassis.
Powering up the radio now resulted
in just the expected noise from the
speaker without any of the crackling.
So I’d nailed it!
A quick check with a signal generator set to 50µV showed that the receiver’s gain was now back to what was
expected. While I was at it, I adjusted
the signal strength meter to read S9.
This is the standard setting for a 50µV
signal at the antenna terminals for HF
amateur radio receivers.
The old Kenwood TS-450S transceiver now works well and is a useful
addition for contacts on the HF amaSC
teur bands.
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12VDC<at>5A, & 5VDC<at>12A Power Supply
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43858
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Resistance: 200R/2000R/20k/200k/20M
Size: 130 x 73.5 x 35mm
128X 64 Dot - Graphics LCD Module
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18 x 3mm Rare Earth Magnets
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The alarm unit sits inside the safe and
sounds an alarm if the safe door is
opened unless the correct code is entered
before the entry delay period expires.
Hotel safe alarm
for travellers
Design by JOHN CLARKE
Are you a frequent tourist? Then you will be familiar with the
small safes in every room in most hotels and in the cabins on
cruise ships. This Hotel Safe Alarm tells you if the safe has
been opened in your absence and will also give the offender a
very bad feeling that he or she has been detected. Their natural
reaction will be to close the safe and abscond immediately.
A
NYONE WHO regularly travels
on cruise ships or stays in hotels
will be familiar with the ubiquitous
room safe which is usually inside the
wardrobe. The safe has a 4-digit LED
Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Powered by a lithium button cell
Armed indication (green LED2)
Entry indicator (red LED1)
Piezo alarm
Low current drain
Adjustable entry delay period
Adjustable alarm period
64 Silicon Chip
display and a numeric keyboard to let
you enter a 4-digit code before closing
it and again when you wish to open it.
They are very handy but it would
be naive to think that these safes offer a high degree of safety for your
valuables. After all, if you forget the
code or the safe malfunctions, it is a
straightforward exercise for the hotel
staff to open them. That means that
there could be people lurking about
in hotel or ship corridors that don’t
have your best interests at heart. And
since they will attempt their nefarious
activity while you are absent, how can
you discourage them? The answer is
to use our Hotel Safe Alarm.
Of course, you could also use this
alarm in a safe at home, or in a filing cabinet or desk drawer that you
want to monitor. And you could use
it to monitor a tool cupboard, pantry
(against hungry teenagers marauding
at night?) or whatever.
The Hotel Safe Alarm is a small plastic box with two LEDs (red and green)
and two pushbutton switches. A light
dependent resistor (LDR) detects when
the safe has been opened and it will
react to room lighting or a torch. A
LED starts blinking immediately and
if you don’t enter in a code via the two
buttons within 15 seconds, the inbuilt
piezo transducer will start screaming
at you (or the offender).
The duration of the alarm is 60 secsiliconchip.com.au
POWER
LED1: ENTRY DETECTED
LED2: ARMED
JP1
470k
D1
1N4004
3V
LITHIUM
CELL
K
4
100nF
1
Vdd
GP5
GP3/MC
330Ω
2
330Ω
7
A
GP0
IC1
PIC12F675
-I/P
6
LDR1 λ
GP4
GP2
Vss
8
A
λ
K
LED2 100Ω
GP1
5
LED1
λ K
A
3
1k
CODE
S1
ENTRY
1k
PIEZO 1
S2
LEDS
SC
20 1 6
K
A
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
Fig.1: the circuit is based on PIC microcontroller IC1, light dependent
resistor LDR1, a couple of LEDs and a piezo transducer. If the safe is
opened, LDR1’s resistance goes low and pulls pin 4 of IC1 low to start
the alarm entry timer. The correct code then has to be entered within 15
seconds via pushbutton switches S1 & S2 to stop the alarm from sounding.
Specifications
•
•
•
•
•
•
Power: 3V at typically 2.5µA
Alarm current: 0.5mA
Alarm entry delay: adjustable from 1-60s in 1s steps; initial value is 15s
Alarm period: 10s to 120s, in10s steps. Default value is 60s
Alarm disable code: any code sequence from one to eight switch presses
Alarm signal: 280ms bursts of 4-6kHz tone with a 220ms gap between bursts
onds as the default setting but this can
be set to between 10 seconds and 120
seconds, in 10-second increments.
If your safe has been opened in your
absence, the alarm will indicate that
by alternately flashing the red and
green LEDs. To clear this alarm condition, you just feed in the entry code
by pushing the two buttons in the
normal way.
We’ll describe how you enter the
code and various time settings later
in this article.
Circuit details
The circuit is very simple; just an
8-pin PIC microcontroller, two LEDs,
two pushbuttons and few other components – see Fig.1. It is powered by a
3V lithium button cell and is switched
on via jumper link, JP1. This can be
removed when you are not using the
alarm, to save the battery.
IC1 is a PIC12F675-I/P microcontroller and it is programmed with a
siliconchip.com.au
tricky bit of software that lets you enter the necessary settings with only
two pushbuttons. Normally, IC1 is in
sleep mode and its watch-dog timer
wakes it about every 2.3 seconds and
it briefly checks the ambient light via
the LDR, as follows.
Normally, IC1’s GP2 output at pin 5
is set high (at 3V), so there is no current flow through the 470kΩ resistor
and the LDR. This is done to minimise current drawn from the 3V cell.
When IC1 wakes up, it sets GP2 low
(0V) and then monitors the voltage at
input GP3 (pin 4).
In darkness, the LDR resistance is
high (well above 1MΩ) so the voltage
at pin 4 will be high, at close to 3V,
so IC1 (yawn) goes to sleep again. If
it wakes and the LDR is exposed to
ambient light, its resistance will be
much lower, perhaps as little as 10kΩ
in bright light. So the voltage at pin
4 will be low and IC1 starts to get excited. Well, perhaps not but it starts
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, code
03106161, 61 x 47mm
1 front panel label, 74 x 47mm
1 UB5 translucent clear or blue
case, 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 20mm button cell holder (Jaycar
PH-9238, Altronics S 5056)
1 CR2032 lithium cell (3V)
2 SPST PCB mount snap action
switches (Jaycar SP-0723,
Altronics S 1099) (S1,S2)
1 30mm diameter piezo
transducer (Jaycar AB-2440,
Altronics S 6140)
1 10kΩ light dependent resistor
(Altronics Z 1621; Jaycar RD3480) (LDR1)
1 DIL8 IC socket
2 M3 tapped 12mm spacers
2 M3 tapped 6mm spacers
6 M3 x 6mm machine screws
2 M3 x 6mm machine screws
2 M3 x 6mm countersink screws
1 2-way pin header (2.54mm pin
spacing) (JP1)
1 jumper shunt
2 PC stakes
1 25mm length of 2mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F675-l/P programmed
with 0310616A.hex (IC1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 3mm red high brightness LED
(LED1)
1 3mm green high brightness LED
(LED2)
Capacitor
1 100nF 63V or 100V MKT
polyester or ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 470kΩ
2 330Ω
2 1kΩ
1 100Ω
flashing green LED2 to indicate that
the alarm is about to start sounding.
Provided the valid code is now entered with the two pushbuttons during
the 15-second delay period, the alarm
is disabled. If no code or an invalid
code is entered, the piezo transducer
sounds, as pins 6 & 3 (GP1 & GP4) alternately go high and low, to deliver
bursts of 4kHz signal. In the confined
space of a hotel safe and at close quarters, this can be quite loud.
Certainly, there is no mistaking that
June 2016 65
Fig.2: the yellow & green traces show the complementary
drive signals applied to the piezo transducer. The two
signals are at 3.99kHz and have an amplitude that’s close
to 3V peak to peak, not allowing for the overshoot spikes.
The total signal applied to the transducer is shown in the
red trace and is 6V peak to peak
the miscreant has been “pinged”. As
already mentioned, the alarm will
sound for the default period of 60
seconds (unless programmed to do
otherwise).
The scope screen grabs of Fig.2 &
Fig.3 show the complementary drive
signals applied to the piezo transducer.
In Fig.2, the two signals are at 3.99kHz
and have an amplitude very close to
3V peak-to-peak, not allowing for the
overshoot spikes. Therefore the total
signal applied to the transducer will
be very close to 6V peak-to-peak or
about 3V RMS as shown in the red
trace of Fig,2.
Fig.3 shows the same complementary drive signals but at a much slower
sweep speed of 100ms/div. This shows
the signal bursts which are about
280ms long and separated by gaps of
about 220ms.
If the safe door is hastily closed
again, the alarm will continue to sound
for the remainder of the 60-second
period and then go back to sleep. When
the safe door is re-opened, the red and
green LEDs will alternately flash for
15 seconds, unless you enter the valid
code. If not, the piezo alarm will begin
beeping again. And so the cycle goes . . .
So as well as providing some deterrent by sounding the alarm if a valid
code is not entered, it will also tell you
that the safe has been opened in your
absence, even if it has been closed after being detected.
Button detection
As well as providing the drive signal for the piezo transducer, pins 6 &
3 (GP1 & GP4) monitor the state of the
two momentary contact pushbutton
66 Silicon Chip
Fig.3: this scope grab shows the same complementary
drive signals but at a much slower sweep speed of 100ms/
div. The signal bursts are about 280ms long and are
separated by gaps of about 220ms. The red trace shows
the total signal applied to the transducer and is 6V peak to
peak.
switches, S1 & S2. To do this, GP1 &
GP4 are set as inputs which are normally high but they can be pulled low
via the 1kΩ resistors in series with
the switches. So if S1 is closed, pin 6
(GP1) will be pulled low.
The 1kΩ resistors are included so
that pressing the switches when the
alarm is sounding will not short out
the alarm signal to the piezo transducer.
Battery power
As already noted, the circuit is powered by a 3V button cell, via link JP1.
When IC1 is in sleep mode, the current
is quite low, at about 2.5µA.
The current drain when the piezo
alarm is sounding is 0.5mA. And while
LED2 is flashing, the current is 1.5mA
(for a cell voltage of 3V).
Diode D1 is included as a safety
measure to prevent damage to IC1
should the cell be connected incorrectly somehow. If the polarity is wrong,
D1 will shunt the reverse current.
Reverse cell polarity could happen
if the cell holder is installed the wrong
way round. Alternatively, if the cell
holder is installed correctly, then the
diode protects the circuit if the cell is
installed incorrectly. Note that for the
particular cell holder we used, there
is no way the cell can be inserted incorrectly and make a connection to
the circuit.
IC1’s power supply is bypassed with
a 100nF capacitor and IC1 runs using
its internal 4MHz oscillator which is
shut down during sleep mode.
LED2’s brightness provides an indication of the cell voltage. At 3V supply, LED2 is quite bright but will be
dim when the cell voltage drops to 2V,
indicating that it should be changed.
Programming trickery
Note that the GP3 input of the
PIC12F675 is usually configured as
the MCLR input (master clear), which
allows the microcontroller to have an
external power-on reset. However,
for our circuit we need to use this as
a general purpose input for monitoring the LDR.
When MCLR is set up as an input,
the MCLR operation is switched to an
internal connection within the microcontroller so the master clear power-on
reset function is not lost.
One disadvantage of using the
MCLR pin as a general purpose input is
that there can be a problem when programming the microcontroller. This
occurs when the internal oscillator is
also used to run the microcontroller
(which we do). Similar to the Fridge
Door Alarm presented in the April
2016 issue, we solved this problem
in the software, as discussed in the
programming panel.
PCB assembly
The parts are all installed on a small
double-sided PCB coded 03106161
(61 x 47mm). This fits inside a small
(UB5) plastic case. Note that the LEDs,
switches, LDR and the piezo transducer are mounted on one side of the PCB,
while the remaining components are
mounted on the other side.
Fig.4 shows the parts layouts for
both sides of the PCB. Begin construction by installing the resistors, using a
multimeter to check the value of each
before inserting it into place. Table 1
siliconchip.com.au
16
03106161
1 6 0 1 3 0 C 2016
Rev.B
470k
4004
PIC12F675
03106161
LED1
JP1
D1
CR2032
BUTTON
CELL
HOLDER
+
IC1
330Ω
100nF
LDR1
PIEZO 1
330Ω
LED2
100Ω
1k
1k
PCB
STAKES
S2
SAFE ALARM
S1
Fig.4: the PCB layout diagram on the left shows how the parts are mounted on the rear of the board, while
the layout at right shows the how the parts are mounted on the top side. Take care to ensure that all
polarised parts are correctly orientated and note that the piezo transducer is supported on 6mm spacers
and secured with M3 screws – see text.
The PCB should only take about 30 minutes to assemble. Note
that the LDR and the two LEDs must be mounted proud of the
PCB – see text.
also shows the resistor colour codes.
Diode D1 can now be installed, taking care to orientate it correctly, then
fit the IC socket, orientating its pin
notch as shown in Fig.4. The 100nF
capacitor is soldered in next and it can
be positioned either way round. Then
solder in the 2-way pin header for JP1
along with the cell holder. Make sure
the plus terminal is orientated towards
diode D1 on the PCB.
LED1 (red) and LED2 (green) are
mounted so the top of the LED lens
is 14mm above the top surface of the
PCB. Make sure the longer lead of each
LED (the anode) is inserted in the “A”
position on the PCB. The LDR is also
mounted 14mm above the PCB surface.
Once the LEDs are in, install switch-
es S1 & S2, again taking care to ensure
that they are correctly orientated (flat
side positioned as shown).
have red and black wires, the polarity of the connections is immaterial;
you can connect it either way around.
If you intend to program the PIC
yourself, the file 0310616A.hex can
be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website. Check the programming panel
on the following page for details on
how to do this. Alternatively, you can
purchase a pre-programmed PIC from
the SILICON CHIP Online Shop.
Be sure to insert IC1 into its socket
with the correct orientation and make
sure you don’t bend the pins under the
IC. Then install the CR2032 cell in its
holder and place the jumper link onto
the 2-way header (JPI). If all is well,
LED2 will begin to flash on and off
after about three seconds, indicating
Piezo transducer mounting
The piezo transducer is mounted
off the PCB, supported on M3 x 6mm
spacers and secured with M3 screws.
The mounting holes in the lugs of
the piezo transducer will need to be
drilled out to 3mm for these screws.
The wires are soldered to the PC stakes
marked “piezo” on the PCB.
We used PC stakes for the piezo
transducer wiring as this allows heatshrink tubing to be slid over the wires
and PC stakes to help prevent the wires
from breaking off.
While the piezo transducer may
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
2
2
1
Value
470kΩ
1kΩ
330Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black red brown
orange orange brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black brown brown
orange orange black black brown
brown black black black brown
June 2016 67
Programming The PIC Micro
A programmed PIC for this project
can be purchased from our on-line shop
(www.siliconchip.com.au) or you may
program one yourself. The software is
also available from our website.
If you are programming the microcontroller yourself, you may be presented with
a warning by the programmer stating that
programming is not supported when both
the MCLR pin is set as a general purpose
input and the internal oscillator is used.
As with the Fridge Door Alarm presented
in the April 2016 issue, you will be able to
program the microcontroller successfully,
so ignore this warning. That’s because any
problems associated with this configuration is already solved by a software solution. Read on if you want more details.
As mentioned, we set MCLR as a general purpose input and utilise the internal
oscillator within IC1. This can present
problems for a programmer during the
process of verifying the software code
after programming.
The problem lies in the fact that as soon
as the microcontroller is programmed, it
that the LDR is exposed to light. The
piezo transducer will then sound the
alarm after the (default) entry delay
period of around 15 seconds.
Plastic case
The PCB is installed inside a UB5
plastic case with the piezo transducer
arranged to “fire through” a hole in the
lid. You need to drill holes in the lid
for the two LEDs, LDR, two switches
and the piezo sound exit hole. In addition, two mounting holes, one either
side of the two switches, are needed to
secure the PCB to the lid, using spacers
and screws.
The holes for the two LEDs and two
PCB mounting holes adjacent to S1
& S2 are 3mm, the switch holes and
piezo sound exit hole are 10mm and
the LDR hole is 5mm. The drilling
template (Fig.5) can be downloaded
from the SILICON CHIP website (www.
siliconchip.com.au).
Having drilled the holes, the label
can be attached. This can be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website,
printed out (preferably onto photographic paper) and affixed to the lid using either glue or neutral-cure silicone.
Another option is to print the panel onto either an A4-size “Dataflex”
68 Silicon Chip
will begin executing its program. A typical
program initially sets up the microcontroller with the general purpose lines set
as inputs or outputs (I/O). This conflicts
with the programmer needing to use the
clock and data programming I/O lines for
program verification.
This problem does not happen if the
MCLR pin is set as the external MCLR
input because the programmer then has
control over the microcontroller, stopping
it from executing the programmed code.
Note also that in order to run the code,
the microcontroller has to have the internal oscillator configured instead of an
external crystal, RC or external clock
oscillator.
The programming problem is solved
in the software provided by including a
3-second delay at the start of the program.
This delay is before the I/O lines are set as
inputs or outputs. The I/O lines therefore
remain as high-impedance inputs while
the programmer verifies the internally
programmed code using the clock and
data programming lines.
sticky label (for ink-jet printers) or a
“Datapol” sticky label (for laser printers) and directly attach this to the case
lid. These labels are available from
http://www.blanklabels.com.au – see
accompanying panel.
Once the label is in position, cut out
the holes using a sharp hobby knife.
The PCB is stood off from the lid
of the case using M3 x 12mm tapped
spacers. M3 screws secure the PCB
to these stand-offs, with countersink
screws used to secure the spacers to
the lid. Finally, attach the lid to the
case using the four screws supplied
with the case.
Note that you can keep tabs on
the condition of the lithium battery
condition by observing LED2. If it
flashes brightly, the cell is OK. As the
cell discharges, the LED will become
quite dim.
Changing the settings
There are three settings that can be
altered on your Hotel Safe Alarm: entry delay, alarm duration and the entry
code. These can only be altered after
switching the alarm off by removing
link JP1 and then pressing one or both
switches while JP1 is reinstalled to
connect power.
A warning from the programmer will still
be issued but the microcontroller can be
programmed successfully and correctly
verified by the programmer.
Note that the PIC12F675 also needs
special programming due to the fact that
it has an oscillator calibration value (OSCAL) that is held within the PIC’s memory.
This calibration value is individually programmed into each PIC by the manufacturer and provides a value that sets the
PIC to run at an accurate 4MHz rate using
the internal oscillator.
This value must be read before erasure
and programming so that it can be included with the rest of the code during programming. If this procedure is not done,
then the oscillator could be off frequency
and that will have an effect on the Hotel
Safe Alarm’s sound.
Most PIC programmers will automatically cater for this OSCAL value but it is
worthwhile checking if your programmer
correctly handles this, especially if you
have difficulties. Finally, be aware that
the PIC12F675 requires a 5V supply for
programming, even though it happily runs
from 3V in the circuit.
Changing the entry delay and alarm
period are optional and you can leave
them at default settings of 15 and 60
seconds, respectively. However, you
will need to set the entry code.
Entry delay
To set the entry delay, power the
unit off by removing link JP1 and hold
switch S1 down while JP1 is installed.
Continue holding S1 down until you
get a short beep from the piezo transducer (after about three seconds). Release S1 and another beep will sound.
The delay period is now entered by
pressing switch S2. This starts from
one second (plus the initial wake-up
time of 2.3 seconds) and each time you
press S2 there is a very brief double
beep from the piezo to indicate the
entry delay has been incremented by
one second.
You can increase the delay to 60
seconds but we think that 15 seconds
is quite adequate. You then store the
entry delay setting by pressing S1 and
this will be indicated by a short beep
from the transducer.
Alarm period
The alarm period setting process
is very similar to the entry delay but
siliconchip.com.au
Front Panel Labels
The PCB is mounted
on the case lid using
two M3 x 12mm
tapped spacers and
M3 x 6mm screws.
now we do it with switch S2. So to set
the entry delay, power the unit off by
removing link JP1 and hold switch S2
down while JP1 is installed. Continue
holding S2 down until you get a short
beep from the piezo transducer (after
about three seconds). Release S2 and
another beep will sound.
The alarm period is entered by pressing switch S1. The alarm period starts
at 10 seconds and each time you press
S1 there is a very brief beep from the
piezo to indicate that the alarm period
has been incremented by 10 seconds.
The alarm period can be adjusted
from between 10 and 120 seconds in
10-second steps. When S2 is pressed,
the entered alarm period will be stored
and indicated by a short beep from the
piezo transducer.
membered, such as 1221. But it can be
any sequence from 1-8 presses.
To set the entry code, power the
unit off by removing link JP1 and hold
both switches S1 and S2 down while
JP1 is installed. Continue holding S1
& S1 down until you get a short beep
from the piezo transducer (after about
three seconds). Release S1 and S2 and
another beep will sound.
The entry code is now entered in,
with each switch press acknowledged
by a brief piezo beep. The entered code
will be stored after both switches are
left open (ie, after none are pressed)
for five seconds. An acknowledgement
beep then sounds.
Using the alarm
The correct code needs to be entered
during the entry delay period. Do not
try to enter the code too quickly. Each
time you push a button you need to
wait for a short beep and then you
press the next button. So for example,
if your code is 1221, you do it in this
sequence: 1 beep, 2 beep, 2 beep, 1
beep. If the code is correct, the alarm
Entry code
The entry code comprises a sequence of presses of S1 & S2. It can be
as simple as 1, 2 or 2, 1 or it could be
up to eight presses, such as 1 2 2 2 1 2
1 2. Most people will want to keep it
reasonably short so that it is easily re-
SILICON CHIP
C
+
+
A
+
C
C
will not sound (the green LED stops
flashing as soon as a switch is pressed).
If you make a mistake while entering
the code, or you enter it too rapidly,
the alarm will sound and the safe can
be closed to muffle the alarm sound.
Entering the valid code prevents
the alarm sounding only if no more
switches are pressed. Any further button pressing following the valid code
will be greeted by an alarm.
If an intrusion is detected, both
LEDs will be flashing. They will cease
flashing once one of the switches is
pressed to begin the entry code sequence. The LEDs turning off may even
give an intruder a false hope that the
code entered was correct.
The alarm is rearmed after it is
placed in darkness, ie, when the safe
door is closed. As soon as light shines
on the LDR, you have to enter the code
to stop the alarm from sounding. SC
LID DRILLING TEMPLATE
+
+
The front-panel label can be made
by downloading the relevant PDF file
from the SILICON CHIP website and
then printing it out onto photographic
paper. It can then be attached to the
front panel using silicone adhesive.
Alternatively, you can print onto
a synthetic Data
flex sticky label
if using an inkjet printer or onto a
Datapol sticky label if using a laser
printer.
(1) For Dataflex labels, go to:
www.blanklabels.com.au/index.
php?main_page=product_info&
cPath=49_60&products_id=335
(2) For Datapol labels go to: www.
blanklabels.com.au/index.php?
main_page=product_info&cPath
=49_55&products_id=326
+
A
A = 10mm
B = 5mm
C = 3mm
+
A
Hotel Safe Alarm
B
Door Open/
Alarm Pending
Enter
Code
+
C
Fig.5: this drilling template can be downloaded as a
PDF file from the SILICON CHIP website.
siliconchip.com.au
Unauthorised
Opening
1
2
Fig.6: this front panel artwork is also available as
a PDF file on the SILICON CHIP website (see panel).
June 2016 69
Tecsun
PL365
radio
receiver
Readers may recall we included two new
Tecsun portable radios in the “Product
Showcase” section of the December 2015
issue. Due to space constraints, there were
limited details but overall, both impressed us.
We were contacted by a reader who liked the
smaller of the new Tecsuns so much he
bought one. Here’s his report.
W
ant to listen in to the HF bands and also sample bands, to pick up local stations when travelling. Coverage
some of the local radio stations when travelling is from 150 to 29999kHz while the FM band starts a little
overseas? I was looking for an ultra-portable ra- lower than the Australian band, covering 76 to 108MHz.
MW tuning can be set to either 9 or 10kHz increments,
dio receiver with AM, FM, shortwave and hopefully single sideband (SSB) that would not take much room in my all handy features if travelling overseas. Either way, it
certainly was quick to thumb the “ETM” button and lock
airline luggage.
The smallest radio I could find which fit the bill was the in all the strong FM stations in a moment. FM Stereo is
pocket-sized Tecsun PL-365, which is about 50mm wide available through headphones and a display on the LCD
by 159mm high and 25mm deep. It’s the latest release from screen indicates this.
The LCD screen can provide a good deal of information,
Tecsun, replacing the PL360 which was almost identical
including the time, local temperature, memory functions
in appearance but lacks SSB.
This little radio looks a bit like an old FM “walkie-talk- as well as signal strength and signal-to-noise, displayed in
ie”, and does have a handy belt clip provided on the back dB. When any button is pressed the screen illuminates for
of the case. It apparently uses the same Si4735 processor a few seconds with a backlit orange glow which is quite
as its big brother, the PL-880 (costing nearly three times useful in low light.
The PL-365 comes with several accessories: a soft pouch,
the price) and the performance of this little radio is quite
a pair of ‘bud’ style earphones, a four metre wire antenna
pleasing for something so small!
The radio fits comfortably in the hand or even the shirt which clips to the whip to improve shortwave reception
pocket and if you are right handed the two thumbwheels and a ‘high sensitivity AM antenna’ which is a bar antenna
for volume and tuning are ergonomically positioned in fitted with a small phono jack. This inserts in the top of
just the right spot. Most of the other menu controls are on the radio next to the headphone socket.
I found the local reception on AM to be perfectly adthe front of the radio, just under the orange backlit screen
positioned at the top of the receiver. The lower part of the equate without the bar antenna – but it did boost the signal by several dB when I plugged it in. In practice, I could
case houses the three “AA” batteries required.
Tuning is via the thumbwheel or by using the “Easy Tun- only “see” the signal had become stronger on the meter – I
ing Mode” (ETM) which seeks out the strongest stations didn’t notice any change in the audio, but that was on a
and locks them into memory (there’s enough memory for local station anyway.
In my area the AM band is fairly
550 stations).
crowded and I have not used the bar
I found this easy to use and it will be
by Andrew Mason
antenna. This high sensitivity antenna
quite handy on the MW and VHF (FM)
70 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
A close-up of
the display and
pushbutton
controls. Both are
excellent.
Accessories include a soft case, ear buds, long wire antenna
and a directional AM antenna (top centre), shown in situ in
the photo below. I noted extra strength on the meter but to
be honest, didn’t notice much difference to the ear.
would be much more useful for DX stations and could
also be used to enhance selectivity by twisting it to receive
one station over another. Of course you could also use the
socket to connect a different AM antenna, so long as you
fitted it with the appropriate 3.5mm plug.
The main reason I purchased this radio was that it had
continuous SW reception and included SSB. Pressing the
SSB button selects the upper sideband, pressing it again
selects the lower. I tried the receiver on the 20 metre band
in the afternoon when it was opening and was pleased to
hear an Italian amateur station coming through strongly.
The inbuilt telescopic whip antenna works well for both
FM and SW but adding the extra 10m wire antenna did
improve reception further on SW. Moving around or trying
to run the wire in different directions can have an effect so
it may be worthwhile to play around here.
On SW the frequency is displayed in kHz at the bottom of
screen. In SSB mode pressing the ‘display’
button cycles through various options for
additional information including showing signal strength for a few seconds before
returning to side-band setting.
A beat frequency oscillator (BFO) is provided
to tweak the sideband. I found most times this
was unnecessary but it is very useful to
have and I did use it a couple of times to
improve readability of some stations (to
near perfect tone). Pressing the BFO button
causes the feature to flash on the screen and
turning the tuning thumbwheel adjusts the
setting. The method is the same for any of
the menu buttons.
The wire antenna is fitted with a clip designed to attach to the telescopic antenna,
while a spring-loaded plastic clip is provided at ‘the high end’ to attach to some
suitably lofty point.
Because the radio itself is so small and
siliconchip.com.au
light, the antenna
wire can pull it
over, through its
own weight or in
the merest breeze.
This is not a problem if you’re holding the radio but
is something to
be aware of if you
place the receiver
down on a table.
On the side of
the radio is a miniUSB port which
can accept 5V
power from a PC or one of those ubiquitous USB chargers
(not supplied). The radio uses three AA batteries and if
you’re using rechargeable Ni-MH batteries you can charge
them in the radio by using the USB input and holding the
charge button until ‘CHR ON’ displays.
I use alkaline batteries as I find they have longer shelf
life than rechargeable batteries while I’m travelling. The
battery cover did seem a bit flimsy and the small lugs, or
notches in the plastic which hold it in place did not fill
me with confidence that they would stand much abuse so
changing batteries should be done with care. Perhaps rechargeables would be better in that way, in that you would
have to open the back less often if you charge them in-situ.
I compared the PL-365 with another Tecsun portable I
have, the larger PL-600. The tone of the larger radio is obviously far superior because it has a much bigger speaker
than the PL-365, which is necessarily small in such a compact radio. That said, the sound from the 40mm speaker is
not too harsh and is perfectly audible.
While the PL-600 has a slightly longer telescopic antenna
I found the little PL-365 to be fairly comparable in reception when using both radios with just their
inbuilt antennas alone. While the PL600
has a local/DX and wide/narrow settings
which the smaller radio doesn’t have, I
found the little PL-365 to have pretty good
sensitivity and selectivity and this might
be down to the design (which includes the Si4737 DSP
chip from Silicon Labs in the USA).
The published specs state that selectivity
is better than 60dB across all the bands and
sensitivity on SSB is less than 3µV.
For what it is, the PL-365 is a pleasing little
receiver; it has good coverage and useful functions in a very small and lightweight package.
It’s perfect for travelling when you can’t take
a bigger rig with you and retailing for under
$90, it promises to fill a gap for the shortwave
enthusiast who likes to travel by plane.
The Tecsun PL-365 is available from Tecsun
Radios Australia, www.tecsunradios.com.au
and retails for $88.00.
SC
June 2016 71
The budget
Senator
Loudspeaker
System . . .
. . . finishing them off
By Leo Simpson
In this second and final article on Budget Senator speakers using the
Altronics C3026 10-inch woofer, we complete the assembly details,
including the crossover network PCB and discuss hand-winding the 2.7
millihenry air-cored inductor.
L
ast month we described how to
build the cabinets, either from
scratch or based on the very
attractive Bunnings Kaboodle modules. What remains to be discussed is
mounting the drivers, assembly of the
crossover network PCB and obtaining
the 2.7mH air-cored inductors. You
will need one for each Senator speaker.
Let’s describe the inductors first. In
the original Senator loudspeaker articles described in September & October
2015, we specified a 2.7mH air-cored
inductor from Jaycar, Cat LF-1330.
These were well made but unfortunately have now been discontinued
by Jaycar.
Most constructors will want to buy
their inductors and the easiest approach is to buy them from Australian
audio company, Soundlabs, at www.
soundlabsgroup.com.au
Soundlabs have three 2.7mH aircored chokes, wound with 18 gauge,
16 gauge and 12 gauge enamelled
copper wire. Most people would be
happy with the 18-gauge model at
72 Silicon Chip
$20 each, plus packing & postage. See
www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/MUAC2m7-1mm/2.7mH+-+0.90+DCR+1
mm+Copper+Air+Core+Coil+18AWG
Buyers from overseas might want
to consider a similar product from
Jantzen Audio, available from Parts
Express at www.parts-express.com/
jantzen-audio-27mh-18-awg-air-coreinductor-crossover-coil--255-272
or Amazon at www.amazon.com/
Jantzen-Audio-2-7mH-InductorCrossover/dp/B0002M736A
And then there is the option to
These 2.7mH chokes from Soundlabs
are wound with different gauge wire
and on different formers, hence the
differences. The 18AWG types are $20
each +GST; the 12AWG are $65 + GST.
wind your own and save some money.
We wound prototype inductors from
18-gauge enamelled copper wire and
we have to state that it is not an easy
task.
It would be easier to wind the inductors from 20-gauge wire since it is
thinner and not so stiff but the resistance of the resulting coil would be a little higher: about 1.6Ω instead of close
to 1.0Ω measured on our prototypes.
While high fidelity purists will no
doubt argue that minimal inductor resistance is very important, the audible
difference between inductors wound
with 18-gauge and 20-gauge will be
undetectable.
You can measure the very slight
difference in bass response but you
won’t hear it.
But because many readers would
probably take the purist approach
and the cost difference between the
required 20-gauge and 18-gauge wire
is zero – you will need to buy a 1kg
reel of wire in both cases – we plunked
for the heavier gauge.
siliconchip.com.au
But that makes it harder to
wind, unless of course, you
have access to a coil winding
machine!
First make your bobbins
Our first attempt to make a
bobbin used a 25mm length of
readily available PVC electrical
conduit and two cheeks made
with a hole saw from Masonite
hardboard and then glued together.
That was OK but did not look
particularly professional and
the small diameter former made
it very difficult to wind, because
of its small radius.
In any case, when we wound
on the calculated number of turns,
the inductance was considerably
less than the required 2.7mH.
Hmm – that was annoying.
Our second attempt, pictured in
this article, used a 1-inch length of
25mm OD electrical conduit and
67mm diameter cheeks cut from
Perspex using a hole saw. We then
glued them together with Bostik PVC
Pipe Cement (Blue type N).
The larger diameter former made
winding a little easier but it was still
tricky. In fact, I aborted the second attempt which involved using a geared
manual drill clamped in a vise.
It was just too hard to maintain the
required winding tension while keeping the wire layers neat and keeping
count of the number of turns.
The method I finally used was to
stretch the required 40 metres or so of
18-gauge wire from the back end of my
garage and up the driveway and then
slowly walk “along the wire” while
I wound it onto the bobbin – while
trying to keep the layers neat, keeping count and maintaining tension. It
took about half an hour.
The finished result can be termed
“workable” but is far less neat than
an inductor produced on a coil winding machine.
And note that no matter how hard
you try to keep the layers neat, the
finished inductor will be “jumble
wound”, not “layer wound”!
By the way, if you go on-line to find
a calculator for an air-cored inductor
and feed in the parameters for the inductor we describe here, you will get
a result of 295 turns.
For example, see http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/Airsiliconchip.com.au
The completed
crossover to suit the
(recommended) Celestion
CDX1-1730 tweeter and Altronics
C-3026 Woofer. You can also use the
Altronics C-3004 tweeter, with a simpler
crossover (see Figs 3&4 overleaf).
CoreInductorDesigner/
As already noted, we had to use
more turns, specifically 325. Ideally,
you need to measure the inductance
although if you wind it using this
method you should get a value within
±5%, which is close enough.
Still interested in winding your
own? If so, we have produced a limited
quantity of Perspex discs which can be
glued up using a solvent-based plastic adhesive such as Sci-Grip Weldon
at Acrylics Online: www.acrylicsonline.com.au/shop-product/accesso-
The inductor we hand-wound using
325 turns of 18 gauge wire, on a
former cut from PVC conduit and
perspex cheeks (using a hole saw).
Ideally it should be “layer wound” ...
but we found this almost impossible.
ries--adhesives/scigrip-ips-weld-on16-clear-acrylic-cement
The discs can be aligned and held
in place by a 1/4-inch or M6 bolt and
nut (as pictured) but it is most important that when the finished inductor
is mounted on the PCB, it must be secured with a brass bolt and nut.
Do not use a steel bolt otherwise
the inductance will be substantially
increase and the harmonic distortion
will also increase due to the significant
non-linearity of the B-H curve of steel.
Brass is non-magnetic.
There is a trap for young players
here: some “brass” bolts and nuts are
actually brass-plated steel. If in any
doubt, check to make sure your “brass”
bolt will not be attracted to a magnet.
Just as an aside: some loudspeaker manufacturers use iron-cored inductors in their crossover networks.
This is a second-rate option. Sure, it
produces a more compact inductor
with less turns of copper wire but
the resulting inductor will be quite
non-linear and can cause significant
distortion.
Crossover network
There are two versions of the crossover network; which one you use depends on the speaker you choose.
The circuit of Fig.1 is the same as
we used for the original Senator sysJune 2016 73
3.3F
1 5W
HF PROFILE
S1
12 10W
CON3
(R1)
12 10W
(C1)
+
3.3
5W
4.7F
3.3
5W
L1 2.7mH
CON1
CON4
(R2)
CON5
INPUT
–
SC
2016
CON6
CON2
BUDGET SENATOR CROSSOVER NETWORK
+
CELESTION
CDX1–1730
TWEETER
–
+
ALTRONICS
C3026
WOOFER
–
CELESTION
TWEETER VERSION
Fig.1: the crossover required for the Celestion tweeter and Altronics woofer.
(R1)
3.3 5W
(C1)
+
CON3
CON4
4.7F
CON1
L1 2.7mH
CON5
INPUT
–
SC
2016
CON2
CON6
BUDGET SENATOR CROSSOVER NETWORK
+
ALTRONICS
C3004
TWEETER
–
+
ALTRONICS
C3026
WOOFER
–
ALTRONICS C3004
TWEETER VERSION
Fig.3: the simpler crossover, suitable for the Altronics woofer and tweeter.
Fig.2: use this PCB overlay to assemble the crossover shown
above (Fig.1) for the Celestion/Altronics combination
74 Silicon Chip
tem described in September & October
2015 and you should use this if you are
using the Altronics woofer and Celestion horn tweeter.
No changes are required, even
though the Altronics woofer is slightly less efficient than the Celestion
10-inch woofer. The accompanying
component overlay is shown in Fig.2.
On the other hand, if you take the
cheaper option and elect to use both
the Altronics woofer and tweeter, most
of the attenuation resistors are omitted
and the resulting crossover network is
shown in Fig.3, together with its component overlay in Fig.4.
The most important aspect of assembling the crossover network PCB
is to make sure you make good solder
connections to the inductor. Make
sure that you thoroughly remove the
varnish from the ends of the wires
and then tin them with solder. You
will actually need to do this anyway,
if you are going to check the inductance value.
Poke the inductor wires through the
two holes on the PCB and then secure
the inductor with a brass bolt, nut and
washer. Then solder the two connections on the PCB. The rest of the assembly is straightforward.
Mounting the crossover PCB
While the crossover PCBs in the prototype Senators were installed behind
the internal sloping panel inside the
cabinet, we do not recommend this
position as it would be virtually im-
Fig.4: the crossover for the Altronics C-3004 tweeter and
C-3026 woofer (Fig.3 above) requires fewer components.
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s an alternative method of bobbin assembly: the two larger discs form the outer cheeks, while the nine smaller discs are
stacked to form the bobbin core. Note the use of a BRASS bolt and nut – steel bolts are magnetic and will adversely affect the
performance of your crossover. The SILICON CHIP on-line shop (www.siliconchip.com.au/shop) has a limited number of these
accurately-machined bobbin assemblies (11 discs, no bolt/nut) available for $5 per pair plus p&p (currently $AU10).
possible to remove the PCB if a fault
subsequently developed.
Instead, we recommend mounting
the crossover PCB in front of the sloping panel, on the floor of the cabinet,
using four self-tapping screws. To
connect the PCB, you need to crimp
6.3mm yellow female spade connectors onto the ends of the wires from the
woofer and tweeter and plug these into
the appropriate connectors on the PCB.
You also need some 400mm-long
spade-lug to spade-lug cables using
spare speaker wire off-cuts to connect
the input terminals on the PCB to the
binding posts mounted on the rear
panel of the speaker.
If using the treble peaking switch
(only applicable with the Celestion/
Altronics combination), drill a hole
through the rear panel of the speaker
and wire the switch up to one of the
pairs of terminals marked on the PCB
(ie, the middle pin and one of the upper pins).
Alternatively, use a jumper shunt
instead, shorting out the indicated
pins to enable the treble peaking or
placing it across the lower pins to disable peaking.
except to note that you should use
black (or even later painted black!)
screws to mount the speakers.
Another important point is that it
is vital that the speakers are air-tight
when mounted.
It’s not so much of a problem with
the Celestion drivers but the Altronics
will definitely need a layer of draftexclusion tape between the case and
driver to seal them.
Draft exclusion tape is available
from hardware stores, etc. But ensure
there are no breaks in the tape to allow air in/out.
Finishing off
Your Senator speaker box(es) are
now complete and almost ready for
use. However, we do not recommend
using them “flat on the floor” as this
will tend to make the bass “boomy”.
Raising them by, say, 100mm or so
will virtually eliminate this problem
and as a bonus, will raise the tweeters
up to a level which is more in line with
a typical listening position.
Fortunately, Bunnings have an ideal
solution to the problem, again intended for kitchen cabinets.
We bought sets of their “leggz”
100mm cabinet furniture legs, as seen
below.
Each pack contains four legs so is
suitable for one speaker box. Once
fitted, they have the added advantage of being height-adjustable so can
help fix any minor discrepancies in
floor levels.
You simply screw the legs to the
outer corners of your speakers, in (say)
100mm from the sides and front.
Sit back, relax with your favourite
music . . . and enjoy!
Mounting the drivers
This is relatively straightforward,
PARTS LIST
The complete parts list for the
Budget Senator Speakers was
published in Part One, last month
siliconchip.com.au
Bunnings’ “leggz” are intended
for weighty furniture use so are
ideal for the Senator speakers.
June 2016 75
Queries on Celestion horn tweeter response
Recently, one of our readers queried the low level frequency response of the Celestion tweeter
I have been looking at the specs of the Celestion compression driver used in the Senator and Majestic speakers. Whilst the curves are excellent at high power levels,
the lower levels don’t look so good.
The compression driver is quite efficient and according to Celestion, intended for larger auditoriums where
it can be driven at optimum power levels. Lounge rooms
of the average family home being much smaller only
need a fraction of these compression driver’s capability to achieve a balanced SPL and therefore they would
appear to be working in the poorest part of their performance envelope.
Perhaps an article on compression driver technology
might be in order, as evidently their initial adoption by
the US hifi market is spreading. Their use also puts the
crossover frequency in the most psycho acoustic sensitive part of audio spectrum which is considered not best
design practice. However if the performance figures of
the Senator design using the Celestion drivers is true in
audio listening then 3-way systems are a thing of the
past. It also raises the question of driving woofer and
tweeter from separate amplifier modules. This is not
only energy efficient but with the crossover put into a
small signal network I would think cost efficient too,
especially if the two amps were on the same board. The
power supply would just be the same rating.
Kelvin Jones,
Kingston, Tas.
Comment: You raise an interesting question. Both our
frequency response curves and those by Celestion have
been done at the standard power level of one watt. However the published curves from the Celestion brochure
(reprinted above) are labelled in a confusing way and
it would be easy to misinterpret them. In each case, the
left-hand axis pertains to the upper frequency response
curve and it is labelled as “SPL (dB)”. SPL stands for
“sound pressure level”.
The right-hand axis pertains to the lower curve which
is actually the tweeter’s impedance and it is labelled
“ Z (dBo)”. We interpret this to mean the “absolute”
value of the impedance but it really should have been
scaled and labelled in Ohms.
The lower curves do not refer to a frequency response
at a lower power level.
Our measurements and listening tests have shown
that this tweeter is very smooth at all power levels and
in the case of the Majestics, performs beautifully up to
300 Watts RMS (250 Watts for the Senator), by dint of
the attenuation resistors in the crossover network.
Also, the response will vary depending on the type
of horn attached as you will note from the difference
between the plane wave tube and the exponential horn.
To obtain the most linear response and lowest harmonic distortion from any compression tweeter, it should
fitted with an exponential horn, as we have specified.
By the way, the term “compression driver” refers
76 Silicon Chip
to the fact that the diaphragm is “pressure loaded” by
the attached horn. You cannot operate a compression
driver without a horn. You can see a short description
of compression drivers at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Compression_driver
Nor does the term “compression driver” necessarily
suggest that there is significant dynamic range compression although all loudspeakers are subject to some degree
of compression due to heating of their voice coils and
the resultant increase in their resistance.
Note that for home use and especially for home movies,
the power handling ability of the Celestion horn tweeter
is very useful because many DVDs and Blu-ray discs have
program material with an enormous dynamic range, ie,
a whisper is as silent as a whisper and a cannon can be
as loud as a real cannon. This can distort and sometimes
ruin tweeters with low power handling ability.
We agree that there is no advantage in having a 3-way
system compared with the 2-way Majestic and Senator
designs.
As far as driving the tweeter from a separate amplifier
is concerned, it is true that you avoid the attenuation
losses in the crossover network but they would be more
than offset by the increased power consumption associated with having a separate Class-AB amplifier.
And of course, you would also need an active crossover network. We don’t think it is worth the extra complication.
siliconchip.com.au
4367 Studio Monitor
For those who have admired the Majestic
Loudspeaker (SILICON CHIP, June & September 2014) and the more recent Senator speakers (SILICON
CHIP, September 2015) but who don’t have the inclination
or time to build these speakers, you could always consider
a top-of-the-line commercial loudspeaker system of similar specification.
An outstanding example would be the newly released
JBL 4367 Studio Monitor. It is a 2-way system similar in
size, efficiency and power handling to the Majestic and
also uses a 15-inch woofer and a large horn.
That is where the broad similarity ends though, as both
the JBL woofer and tweeter have some exceptional features.
For example, the woofer has a large (1.5kg) neodymium
magnet and two 3-inch voice coils on a common pole piece.
Its free-air resonance is 28Hz.
And interestingly, the JBL compression driver has two
annular diaphragms and a special wave-guide horn.
Both horn tweeter and woofer are coupled via a complex
crossover circuit featuring 16 polypropylene capacitors,
nine resistors and six air-cored inductors. All are mounted
on a thick MDF board using point-to-point assembly. The
crossover frequency is 700Hz.The enclosure itself is made
from 1-inch thick MDF. Overall weight is 61.2kg.
The rated frequency response
is 30Hz to 40kHz at the -6dB points and -10dB at 26Hz.
Convoy International, the national distributor for JBL,
will be launching it at the upcoming International Hi-Fi
show which will be held at the Pulman Hotel, Albert Park
on July 1st–3rd.
Recommended retail price is a cool $25,990 per pair.
OOPS! Some of our dimensions didn’t add up!
A reader queried the dimensions of the Budget Senators published in the May issue –
according to him they didn’t quite add up. And he was right!
For some reason, Mr Murphy changed the width of the base plate from 300 x 381mm
to 320 x 381mm. “Only 20mm”, you say. But that 20mm not only threw other dimensions
out (eg, front and rear baffles) but meant that the cutting diagram also didn’t make sense.
The important diagrams are shown here. Note that the only dimension which has
changed is that
300mm width;
everything else
adds up when
this is changed.
And best of
all, the cutting
NOTE:
diagram, which
Tweeter cutout
dimensions are
we knew should
to suit
work, now reCELESTION horn;
ally does work.
for Altronics
tweeter cut
You should be
73mm diam
able to get all
hole.
the pieces (except the reflector boards, as
we mentioned
last month) out
of a single sheet
of 2400 x 1200
x 18mm MDF
with quite a bit
of “meat” left
over to account
for saw thickness etc.
SIDE A
SIDE A
FRONT A
730 x 417mm
730 x 417mm
730 x 300mm
SIDE B
SIDE B
FRONT B
730 x 417mm
730 x 417mm
730 x 300mm
REAR A
TOP A
730 x 300mm
417 x 336mm
REAR B
730 x 300mm
TOP B
BASE A
BASE B
300 x 381mm
300 x 381mm
417 x 336mm
MATERIAL: 2400 x 1200 x 18mm MDF etc.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 77
SILICON
CHIP
.com.au/shop
ONLINESHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest SILICON CHIP project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re after?
Or a pre-programmed micro? Or some other hard-to-get “bit”? The chances are they are available direct from the SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP.
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP has established the ONLINESHOP. No, we’re not going into opposition with your normal suppliers –
this is a direct response to requests from readers who have found difficulty in obtaining specialised parts such as PCBs & micros.
•
•
•
•
•
PCBs are normally IN STOCK and ready for despatch when that month’s magazine goes on sale (you don’t have to wait for them to be made!).
Even if stock runs out (eg, for high demand), in most cases there will be no longer than a two-week wait.
One low p&p charge: $10 per order, regardless of how many boards or micros you order! (Australia only; overseas clients – email us for a postage quote).
Our PCBs are beautifully made, very high quality fibreglass boards with pre-tinned tracks, silk screen overlays and where applicable, solder masks.
Best of all, those boards with fancy cut-outs or edges are already cut out to the SILICON CHIP specifications – no messy blade work required!
HERE’S HOW TO ORDER:
4 Via the INTERNET (24 hours, 7 days): Log on to our secure website –
All prices are in AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS ($AU)
siliconchip.com.au, click on “SHOP” and follow the links
4 Via EMAIL (24 hours, 7 days): email silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au – Clearly tell us what you want and include your contact and credit card details
4 Via MAIL (24 hours, 7 days): PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW 2097. Clearly tell us what you want and include your contact and credit card details
4 Via PHONE (9am-5pm EADST, Mon-Fri): Call (02) 9939 3295 (INT 612 9939 3295) – have your order ready, including contact and credit card details!
YES! You can also order or renew your SILICON CHIP subscription via any of these methods as well!
PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and
some selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16LF1709-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
PIC18F4550-I/P
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13). Driveway Monitor Receiver (July15)
Hotel Safe Alarm (Jun16)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13),
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13) 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13),
Nicad/NiMH Burp Charger (Mar14) Remote Mains Timer (Nov14),
Driveway Monitor Transmitter (July15) Fingerprint Scanner (Nov15)
MPPT Lighting Charge Controller (Feb16) 50/60Hz Turntable Driver (May16)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
Battery Cell Balancer (Mar16)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12),
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite Mk2 (Jan15) – also includes FREE 47F tantalum capacitor
Micromite LCD Backpack [either version] (Feb 16), Parking Assistant (Mar 16)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SP
Low Frequency Distortion Analyser (Apr15) Bad Vibes (June 15)
PIC32MX170F256D-I/PT 100dB Stereo Audio Level Meter / VU Meter (Jun16)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Now with Mk2 Firmware at no extra cost)
PIC32MX250F128B-I/SP
GPS Tracker (Nov13) Micromite ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14)
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14),
Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/P
Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
PIC18F14K50
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
PIC18LF14K22
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, HARD-TO-GET BITS, ETC
NEW THIS MONTH:
100dB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
All SMD parts except programmed micro and LEDs (both available separately)
(Jun16)
$20.00
(May16)
$5.00
RASPBERRY PI TEMPERATURE SENSOR EXPANSION
Two BSO150N03 dual N-channel Mosfets plus 4.7kΩ SMD resistor:
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR - all SMD parts:
(Apr16)
$10.00
BOAT COMPUTER - (REQUIRES MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK – $65.00 [see below]) (Apr16)
BOAT COMPUTER - VK2828U7G5LF TTL GPS/GLONASS/GALILEO module with antenna & cable: $25.00
BOAT COMPUTER - VK16E TTL GPS module with antenna & cable:
(Apr16) $20.00
ULTRASONIC PARKING ASSISTANT (REQUIRES MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK – $65.00 [see below]
Ultrasonic Range Sensor PLUS clear lid with cutout to suit UB5 Jiffy Box
(Mar 16) $7.50
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
ALL SMD PARTS, including programmed micro
(Mar 16)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK ***** COMPLETE KIT *****
(Feb 16)
(Jan 16)
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR Mk II all SMD components
ARDUINO-BASED ECG SHIELD - all SMD components
ULTRA LD Mk 4 - plastic sewing machine bobbin for L2 – pack 2
VOLTAGE/CURRENT/RESISTANCE REFERENCE - all SMD components#
(Sept15)
(Oct 15)
$2.00
(Aug 15)
$12.50
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR all SMD components
(July 15)
# includes precision resistor. Specify either 1.8V or 2.5V
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER - 600V logic-level Mosfet. 5 x HV resistors: (Apr15)
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE - Hard-to-get parts pack:
(Jan15)
$10.00
CDI – Hard-to-get parts pack: Transformer components (excluding wire),
$40.00
diodes, SMD caps, polypropylene caps plus all 0.1% resistors (SMD & through-hole) (May 15) $65.00
all ICs, 1N5711 diodes, LED, high-voltage capacitors & resistors:
all ICs, Mosfets, UF4007 diodes, 1F X2 capacitor:
(Dec 14)
(Dec 14) $50.00
LM1084IT-ADJ, KCS5603D, 3 x STX0560, 5 x blue 3mm LEDs, 5 x 39F 400V low profile capacitors
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER - All SMD parts
(Nov 14)
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT WM8371 DAC IC & SMD Capacitors [Same components
also suit Stereo Echo & Reverb, Feb14 & Dual Channel Audio Delay Nov 14]
does not include micro (see above) nor parts listed as “optional”
(Oct14)
$15.00
$25.00
$12.50
$35.00
$5.00
(May14)
$20.00
(May 14)
$45.00
(Apr14)
$7.50
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
(Mar14)
$7.50
10A 230V AC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
(Feb14)
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY- all SMD parts, 3 x BCM856DS & L2/L3
$25.00 USB/RS232C ADAPTOR MCP2200 USB/Serial converter IC
$15.00
$10.00
$40.00
CURRAWONG AMPLIFIER Hard-to-get parts pack:
AD8038ARZ Video Amplifier ICs For Active Differential Probe (Pack of 3 SMD) (Sept 14)
44-PIN MICROMITE Complete kit inc PCB, micro etc
(Aug14)
(May14)
*$65.00 MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER - AOT11N60L 600V Mosfet
$30.00 RGB LED STRIP DRIVER - all SMD parts and BSO150N03 Mosfets,
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER -
(Oct 15)
$2.50
$50.00
includes PCB, micro and 2.8-inch touchscreen
100µH SMD inductor, 3x low-profile 400V capacitors & 0.33Ω resistor
P&P – $10 Per order#
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER - TDA1543 16-bit Stereo DAC IC
(Jun 15)
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR - all SMD components inc.12 NE5532D ICs, 8 SMD
1 SPD15P10 P-channel logic Mosfet & 1 IPP230N06L3 N-channel logic Mosfet
40A IGBT, 30A Fast Recovery Diode, IR2125 Driver and NTC Thermistor
$45.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and included GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
06/16
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
For more unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
PCB CODE:
Price:
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111 $25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
01212112/3 $20 per set
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121 $10.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121 $30.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2 $30 per set
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121 $20.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121 $40.00
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122 $40.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123 $75.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121 $10.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112 $20.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121 $10.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04104121 $20.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
04104122 $20.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012 10105122 $35.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
MAY 2012
21105121 $30.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
21105122/3 $20 per set
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01106121 $20.00
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
24105121 $30.00
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
08109121 $10.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
04106121 $20.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
04106122 $20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
05106121 $20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
05106122 $10.00
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
10107121 $10.00
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
03107121 $20.00
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
10108121 $10.00
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
04108121 $20.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
24109121 $30.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
24109122 $30.00
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
25108121 $20.00
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
07109121 $20.00
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
09109121 $10.00
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
03110121
$5.00
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
09110121 $10.00
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
16110121 $25.00
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
16110121 $20 per set
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
01108121 $30.00
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
01108122 $10.00
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
05110121 $10.00
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
04109121 $10.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)DEC 2012 10105122 $35.00
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB) JAN 2013
01109121/2 $10.00
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
19111121 $10.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
04111121 $35.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
04111122 $15.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
04111123 $45.00
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
21102131 $20.00
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
12110121 $10.00
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
04103131 $10.00
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
16102131
$5.00
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013
01102131 $40.00
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013
01102132/3 $30.00
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013
04104131 $15.00
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013
08103131
$5.00
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013
11104131 $15.00
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013
12104131 $10.00
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013
07106131 $10.00
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013
15106131 $15.00
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013
15106132
$7.50
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
01106131 $15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
09107131 $15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
09107132/3 $20.00/set
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
15106133 $15.00
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107131
$5.00
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107132 $10.00
IPOD CHARGER
AUG 2013
14108131
$5.00
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
08104131 $10.00
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
04107131 $10.00
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
11108131
$5.00
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
05109131 $10.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Main PCB
OCT 2013
06109131 $35.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Front & Rear Panels
OCT 2013
06109132/3 $25.00/pr
TINY TIM AMPLIFIER (same PCB as Headphone Amp [Sept11])OCT 2013
01309111
$20.00
AUTO CAR HEADLIGHT CONTROLLER
OCT 2013
03111131
$10.00
GPS TRACKER
NOV 2013
05112131
$15.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY/DSP
NOV 2013
01110131
$15.00
BELLBIRD
DEC 2013
08112131
$10.00
PORTAPAL-D MAIN BOARDS
DEC 2013
01111131-3
$35.00/set
(for CLASSiC-D Amp board and CLASSiC-D DC/DC Converter board refer above [Nov 2012/May 2013])
LED Party Strobe (also suits Hot Wire Cutter [Dec 2010])
JAN 2014
16101141
$7.50
Bass Extender Mk2
JAN 2014
01112131
$15.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
Li’l Pulser Mk2 Revised
JAN 2014
09107134
$15.00
10A 230VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
FEB 2014
10102141
$12.50
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
MAR 2014
14103141
$15.00
RUBIDIUM FREQ. STANDARD BREAKOUT BOARD
APR 2014
04105141
$10.00
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR
APR 2014
07103141
$5.00
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
MAY 2014
10104141
$10.00
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER
MAY 2014
16105141
$10.00
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY
MAY 2014
18104141
$20.00
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
JUN 2014
01205141
$20.00
TOUCHSCREEN AUDIO RECORDER
JUL 2014
01105141
$12.50
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
JUL 2014
99106141
$10.00
MICROMITE ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
JUL 2014
24107141
$7.50
FREQUENCY COUNTER ADD-ON
JUL 2014
04105141a/b $15.00
VALVE SOUND SIMULATOR PCB
AUG 2014
01106141
$15.00
VALVE SOUND SIMULATOR FRONT PANEL (BLUE)
AUG 2014
01106142
$10.00
TEMPMASTER MK3
AUG 2014
21108141
$15.00
44-PIN MICROMITE
AUG 2014
24108141
$5.00
OPTO-THEREMIN MAIN BOARD
SEP 2014
23108141
$15.00
OPTO-THEREMIN PROXIMITY SENSOR BOARD
SEP 2014
23108142
$5.00
ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL PROBE BOARDS
SEP 2014
04107141/2 $10/SET
MINI-D AMPLIFIER
SEP 2014
01110141
$5.00
COURTESY LIGHT DELAY
OCT 2014
05109141
$7.50
DIRECT INJECTION (D-I) BOX
OCT 2014
23109141
$5.00
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT
OCT 2014
01110131
$15.00
DUAL PHANTOM POWER SUPPLY
NOV 2014
18112141
$10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER
NOV 2014
19112141
$10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER PANEL/LID (BLUE)
NOV 2014
19112142
$15.00
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER
NOV 2014
01109141
$5.00
TDR DONGLE
DEC 2014
04112141
$5.00
MULTISPARK CDI FOR PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
DEC 2014
05112141
$10.00
CURRAWONG STEREO VALVE AMPLIFIER MAIN BOARD
DEC 2014
01111141
$50.00
CURRAWONG REMOTE CONTROL BOARD
DEC 2014
01111144
$5.00
CURRAWONG FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2014
01111142/3 $30/set
CURRAWONG CLEAR ACRYLIC COVER
JAN 2015
- $25.00
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE
JAN 2015
04108141
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER MAIN BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101151
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY ZENER BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101152
$10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER CALIBRATOR BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101153
$5.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
04103151
$10.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
04103152
$10.00
LOW-FREQUENCY DISTORTION ANALYSER
APR 2015
04104151
$5.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
04203151/2
$15.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
04203153
$15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR MAIN PCB
MAY 2015
04105151
$15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
MAY 2015 04105152/3
$20.00
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
18105151
$5.00
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
04106151
$7.50
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
04106152
$2.50
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
04106153
$5.00
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
04104151
$5.00
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
01109121/2 $7. 50
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
15105151 $10.00
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
15105152
$5.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
18107151
$2.50
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
04108151
$2.50
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
16101141
$7.50
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
01107151 $15.00
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
1510815 $15.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
18107152
$2.50
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
01205141 $20.00
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
01109111 $15.00
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
07108151
$7.50
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
03109151/2 $15.00
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
01110151 $10.00
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
19110151 $15.00
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
19111151 $15.00
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
04101161
$5.00
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC DEC 2015
04101162 $10.00
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
01101161 $15.00
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
01101162 $20.00
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
05102161 $15.00
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER
FEB/MAR 2016
16101161 $15.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
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$7.50
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
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$7.50
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
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$6.00
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
05102161 $15.00
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
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$5.00
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
03104161
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ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
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PRECISION 50/60HZ TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
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RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
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NEW THIS MONTH
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
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JUN 2016
03106161
$5.00
LOOKING FOR TECHNICAL BOOKS? YOU’LL FIND THE COMPLETE LISTING OF ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE IN THE SILICON CHIP ONLINE BOOKSTORE – ON THE “BOOKS & DVDs” PAGES AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP
Nicholas Vinen reviews Rohde & Schwarz
new RTH1004 4-channel portable ’scope
Scope Rider
This 2/4-channel portable/desktop
digital oscilloscope is one of the most
generally useful test instruments
that we have come across. It has
four totally isolated input
channels, each rated for 1000V
(Cat III) or 600V (Cat IV) with
the supplied probes, up to
300V offset between each
channel, a bandwidth of up to
500MHz, optional 8-channel
logic analyser and multimeter mode.
A
s you would expect, as new oscilloscope models are released, they tend to have more and better features than the
last generation – not just more bandwidth, faster sampling
and so on but also touch-screen interfaces, more mathematical
display modes, more modes for measurement, analysis, triggering and so on.
But sometimes it’s the seemingly simple features which come
in most handy in day-to-day usage.
The first feature that caught our attention on the R&S Scope
Rider is the four fully isolated inputs. You would expect the inputs
in a portable scope to be isolated from
the power supply but these are also
isolated from each other.
To get the same facility in a desktop you need differential probes; a
set of four such probes with the
bandwidth of this unit would probably set you back more than the
cost of this scope!
Why is this such a big deal? Well,
there are a number of situations
where you might need to examine
signals which do not have a common ground.
For example, circuits with multiple
ground domains or multiple reference
voltages, signals with a DC offset where
the offset may also contain AC components, measuring the voltage across
high-side shunt resistors or emitter resistors, floating Mosfet gate drive signals,
80 Silicon Chip
mains devices which switch the Neutral conductor and so on.
Spend any significant amount of time with a scope and you
will run into one or more of these situations.
The usual solution is to break out a differential probe but this
has many drawbacks: you need to own one or more differential
probes each of will have their own power supplies, but limited
bandwidth, limited operating voltage ranges but they add their
own noise to the signal, complicate the wiring. etc, etc.
Basically, having to use differential probes generally makes
measurement more tricky and less reliable (sometimes downright misleading).
There’s also the fact that when
you’re dealing with low-level or
high-frequency signals, you really
need to connect the ground clips
for each probe into the circuit and
when doing so there’s always the
possibility you will clip onto to the
wrong part of the circuit and short
it out via the scope’s Earth wiring,
possibly damaging the device under test and maybe the scope too!
With fully isolated inputs, all
these problems are eliminated. You
simply connect each probe to the
signal you’re interested in and the
“Earth” clip to its reference voltage
(ground or whatever).
There’s no possibility of shorting
anything out, no loss of bandwidth
– you just make the connections and
siliconchip.com.au
The R&S Scope Rider has an 8-inch touchscreen, jog wheel
and large buttons for control. The Ch1-4 buttons illuminate
when a given channel is active while the timebase control
buttons are immediately above and vertical controls below.
ground which is significantly below the Mosfet’s source voltage,
hence the trace goes negative.
Of course, you could monitor all these voltages using a traditional 4-channel scope with single-ended inputs but the voltage
measurements for all but the bottom-most cell would require
some interpretation and similarly, most Mosfet gate voltages
would not be relative to their sources and so it may not be obvious whether they are on or off. The situation would be even
more difficult if the voltages were not so steady, as is the case
in some circuits.
To give another example, look at Scope2. It shows the piezo
driver waveforms of the Hotel Safe Alarm described elsewhere
in this issue.
The yellow and green traces show the complementary drive
signals coming from the PIC16F88 microcontroller and these
have the same common earth point. The red trace shows the
summed drive signal across the transducer which is effectively
being driven in bridge mode.
To get the same signal display in a typical desktop scope you
would have to resort to a differential probe or the MATH mode
(showing the difference between the complementary signals).
On this portable scope, it’s easy.
Finally, Scope3 and Scope4 show another situation where
you would normally want a differential probe with a high isolation voltage.
In this case we are showing the signal applied to a 230VAC
LED down-light operating from a trailing-edge dimmer. Again,
it’s a simple connection and the very high common-mode rejection of the scope means that we can have faith in the accuracy
of the displayed signal.
Resolution, sampling rate and waveform update rate
measure the signals.
Isn’t that what you really want from a scope?
Scope1 shows one real-world scenario that we came up with
for this scope. Channels 1, 2 and 3 are connected across three
cells in a fully charged Li-Po battery pack, hence they are each
showing around 4.1V (with 2V/div), as confirmed by the measurement at upper left. We’ve staggered the vertical (ground)
offsets for each channel so the traces don’t obscure each other.
Channel 4 is monitoring the gate voltage of a P-channel Mosfet connected across cell #3. It is held high initially, keeping the
Mosfet off. When the Mosfet switches on, it is pulled down to
The next most impressive feature of this scope is the combination of 10-bit ADCs and the many different bandwidth options,
selectable per-channel: 1/2/5/10/20/50/100/200/500kHz and
1/2/5/10/20/50/100/200/500MHz (the latter options available
only on the higher-bandwidth models).
Basically, with a very wide bandwidth, there’s enough noise
that the 10-bit ADC provides little benefit.
But once you reduce it below about 50MHz, the waveform
becomes much cleaner and you can really see the advantage of
the extra two bits giving 1024 different voltage steps rather than
just 256. This, in combination with a 2mV/div sensitivity setting
Scope1: channels 1, 2 & 3 (yellow, green & red traces) are
connected across three cells in a Li-Po battery while channel
4 (blue trace) shows the floating gate drive of a P-channel
Mosfet connected across cell #2. The trigger is set to when
the Mosfet switches on. Probe settings are shown at the top
and bottom of the screen.
Scope2: The yellow and green traces show the
complementary drive signals coming from a PIC16F88
microcontroller and these have the same common earth
point. The red trace shows the summed drive signal across
a piezo transducer which is effectively being driven in
bridge mode.
siliconchip.com.au
June 2016 81
Scope3 and Scope4 show the signal applied to a 230VAC LED dimmable down-light operating from a trailing-edge
dimmer. We are using a high voltage 100:1 probe. Note the displayed voltage measurements. Scope3 shows the dimmer at
the minimum setting while Scope4 is for a higher power setting.
and 1:1 probes allows for much better small signal analysis than
with a typical DSO.
While some scopes provide a low-pass filter option, they tend
to have very limited abilities with it switched on, such as reduced
waveform update rate, no MATH operations and so on.
With this scope, you can choose a channel bandwidth as low
as 1kHz and treat the result just like you would any other trace
with no degradation in performance. This allows you to filter out
noise and glitches you aren’t interested in to better observe the
actual signal.
It’s especially useful when working with audio frequency signals.
The bandwidth choices in the range are 60MHz, 100MHz,
200MHz, 350MHz and 500MHz. Regardless of which you pay
for, you get a 5Gsample/second scope.
This is shared between the channels so drops to 2.5Gsa/sec
with two active and 1.25Gsa/sec with three or four active. Memory is 500ksamples, shared between the four channels, which is
more than adequate but not as large as some desktop scopes.
The waveform update rate is up to 50,000 waveforms per second
– again, more than adequate and this rivals many desktop scopes
but a few high-end units will do more. As with the memory depth,
it would be a rare situation where you actually need a higher rate
than this. Basically you would only need it if you were searching
for very occasional runts or other malformed pulses.
Acquisition and triggering
Like many modern scopes, in addition to the sample, average
and peak-detect acquisition modes, this one offers a high-resolution mode which provides some of the noise-removal properties
of averaging mode but can be used with non-repetitive signals.
It gives a much cleaner-looking result in many cases so it’s a
welcome feature.
One thing we’ve noticed in using this scope is that its triggering system seems exceptionally accurate and stable.
When using the normal level-based triggering, the trace always
seems to cross the intersection of the timebase origin and trigger level perfectly. The basic trigger modes available are Edge,
Glitch (positive/negative/both, min/max) and Pulse Width (positive/negative, shorter/longer/inside/outside width).
Measurements and other features
The RTH1004 can display up to four measurements in the
upper-left corner of the screen. If showing more than two, the
font shrinks so there’s enough space.
Pretty much all the normal measurements are available, eg,
82 Silicon Chip
frequency, rise time, fall time, pulse width, duty cycle, average,
RMS, peak and overshoot. It can also display power readings
such as apparent power and power factor. These measurements
require one channel to read the voltage and another the current
(via a clamp probe or an external shunt).
“MATH” modes are fairly basic and include addition, subtraction, multiplication, absolute value and square. An XY plotting
mode is also available.
The RTH1004 also has the ability to operate as a data logger
and to store and review trace history (with the segmented memory
option). Plus it has a number of other features that we won’t go
into in detail including mask testing (with beep on failure) and
vertical/horizontal cursors.
One feature which is missing from the RTH1004 is a spectrum
analysis option. However, in our experience, this is not terribly
useful on most scopes – you’re generally better off with a separate spectrum analyser if you need this feature.
Also, it lacks “probe sensing”, so you have to configure each
channel for the correct probe attenuation setting. This is understandable given the isolated BNC sockets used and since the supplied probes are fixed at 10:1 (and likely you will be using these
often), it isn’t a huge hassle.
Display and user interface
The 800 x 480 pixel 7-inch TFT display is bright and offers
high contrast and a good viewing angle. It provides 10 horizontal divisions and 8 vertical. There’s an option for a high-contrast
colour scheme which makes it easier to view in direct sunlight.
The touch-screen interface is far from a gimmick. You don’t
have to use it; all functions can be accessed via the push-buttons and wheel and you can even turn off the touch function if
you find you’re accidentally activating it. But many functions are
much easier (and more intuitive) when accessed via the touchscreen, especially selecting from drop-down lists and navigating
through menus.
The arrangement of the front panel buttons is a little different
than a traditional desktop scope, so it took us a while to figure
out which buttons activated some functions.
But overall, the RTH1004 is quite easy and simple to use once
you have done so. The buttons are large which allows operation
even when wearing gloves.
Like pretty much all modern scopes, there is a “boot-up” time
between switching the unit on and being able to use it but it’s
relatively short – just a few seconds. Switch-off is pretty fast and
takes about one second.
siliconchip.com.au
And it does not have a fan, which is a pleasant change from
many scopes with quite obtrusive fans.
Other options
The scope we’re reviewing is a four-channel model and this
is the one we would prefer to use in a lab environment where
two channels often just aren’t enough. Having said that, the twochannel model (RTH1002) does have one advantage besides a
slightly lower price in that it replaces the two missing channels
with a multimeter.
The four-channel model still has a multimeter mode which
works with any combination of the inputs however it will only
read voltages and only with a three digit read-out. Also you would
probably want to use it with a BNC-to-alligator-clip cable.
But if you buy the two-channel model, you get two standard
insulated banana sockets to plug standard multimeter probes into
and a four-digit readout. While it can’t measure current without
an external current clamp or shunt, it does add resistance (up to
100MΩ), diode test, continuity, frequency and capacitance (up
to 10,000µF) modes, plus the ability to measure temperature
using a platinum RTD.
Accuracy is also improved compared to the scope-based DVM
with a basic voltage accuracy of 0.05%.
While you have to choose between the two and four-channel
models initially, everything else can be upgraded later: you can
increase the bandwidth, add the logic analyser (eight channels,
250MHz, 125ksample memory), add serial triggering and decoding (I2C, SPI, RS-232/422/485), add advanced triggering modes
(TV, runt, interval, etc) and add Wi-Fi or LAN remote control.
Size, weight, battery, accessories etc.
Battery life is stated as four hours and our use gives us no
reason to doubt that.
The scope weighs 2.4kg and while it isn’t difficult to carry
around, the average person would probably be quite fatigued
if they had to carry it for long periods. Luckily it incorporates a
fold-out stand and is quite comfortable to use on a bench top or
other flat surface.
In fact, compared to a standard desktop scope it uses up about
half the bench space, being narrower and lacking the front-facing
input sockets. Its overall dimensions are 200mm wide, 300mm
tall and 74mm deep.
The DC barrel charging socket is at lower left,
hidden under a flap (to keep moisture and dust
out) and it charges in a couple of hours using the supplied mains “brick”. When you
plug the charger in, the power button lights
up blue and it changes to yellow once the
battery is fully charged, so you can tell at
a glance.
Also hidden under a flap, at the righthand side, is the logic interface socket, USB
host and device ports and Ethernet (RJ-45)
socket for remote control.
The scope is supplied with two or four
10:1 probes depending on the model you
buy, as well as the charger/power supply,
battery and soft handle which makes it easier
to carry one-handed. The probes supplied are
high-quality types but they are also quite large
and chunky with insulated alligator ground
clips on the end of quite long wires. They are
good for probing low-frequency, high-voltage
siliconchip.com.au
equipment but clumsy for hooking into a packed PCB.
To be fair, most scopes suffer from the same basic problem –
the probes are based on decades-old designs and do not work
well with modern electronics which involves much smaller components mounted closer together. And most SMDs have no legs
or pins you can easily hook onto.
One very nice feature of these probes is that they are supplied with an insulated ground spring clip. This replaces the long
ground wire and is necessary for probing high frequency signals
(>10MHz say) if you want an accurate idea of the waveform shape.
Most probes are supplied with uninsulated springs which are very
frustrating to use as unless you are making connections to a set
of pads designed to suit the probe, you have to worry about accidentally shorting nearby components to ground.
Quirks
One oddity we noticed is that when the timebase is set to less
than 1ms/div and you freeze the display, it always shows multiple
waveforms overlaid, even when persistence is tuned off. If you
really need to capture a single waveform at a fast timebase you
can use the single trigger mode; however we are in the habit of
simply freezing the display using the Run/Stop button in Normal
or Auto mode to examine a non-repetitive waveform more closely,
so this is baffling behaviour.
By the way, there’s no dedicated single trigger button (as is
common on many scopes); you need to change the trigger mode to
Single and then press the Run/Stop button to capture a waveform.
Conclusion and special offer
While this scope may not have a full complement of bells and
whistles, as a test instrument goes, it’s hard to think of any that
are more practical and flexible. And given that you are effectively getting four built-in high-performance isolated differential
probes along with a portable, high-bandwidth, high-resolution
four-channel DSO, it’s great value.
Rohde & Schwarz have two special offers for this product line
which are valid until June 30, 2016:
Offer #1 (“Lab”): Buy any four-channel R&S Scope Rider model
(starting from $5650 ex GST) and get these for free: Mixed signal
analysis (RTH-B1), I2C/SPI serial triggering and decoding (RTHK1), UART/RS-232 serial triggering and decoding (RTH-K2) and
Advanced triggering (RTH-K19).
Offer #2 (“Field”): Buy any two-channel R&S
Scope Rider model (starting from $4710 ex
GST) and get these for free: Wireless LAN
(RTH-K200), Web interface remote control
(RTH-K201), Hard shell protective carrying
case (RTH-Z4), Car adapter (HA-Z302), Battery charger for Li-Ion Battery (HA-Z303),
Replacement battery (HA-Z306), Extended
set for RT-ZI10/RT-ZI11 (RT-ZA21).
To make an enquiry or purchase, contact
a Rohde & Schwarz reseller.
For Australia, these are Mektronics (call
1300 788 701 or email sales<at>mektronics.
com.au) or Test and Measurement Australia
(call (02) 4739 9523 or email sjb<at>TandM.
com.au). Or for New Zealand, Nichecom (call
(04) 232 3233 or visit www.nichecom.co.nz).
Alternatively, you can contact Rohde &
Schwarz Australia directly on (02) 8874 5100
or e-mail Sales.Australia<at>rohde-schwarz.
SC
com
June 2016 83
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
100nF
1
7
6
5
D4
1N4148
A
2
4
B5
C1
B4
C3
3
6
IC3
2
IC1
PICAXE–
14M
1
4M 2
A
B3
B2
C4
B1
C5/SerIN
K
D3
1N4148 100nF
S1
C0
C2
4
7
3
K
POWER
16V
+V
1k
100nF
RAIN
SENSOR
PANEL
10 µF
B0/SerO
8
9
Vcc
10
DATA
11
12
A
220Ω
14
1M
ANT
D1
1N4004
GND
13
0V
22k
K
433MHz
TX
MODULE
ICSP
HEADER
A
6V
BATTERY
(4x AA)
DATA
λ LED1
10k
K
SENSOR & TRANSMITTER UNIT
100nF
7
BEEP 4–12
LK2
ANT
433MHz
RX
MODULE
16V
6
5
DELAY
10–30
DATA
4
3
2
GND
22k
C0
B5
C1
B4
C2
C3
IC2
PICAXE–
14M
1
4M 2
C4
B3
B2
B1
C5/SerIN
B0/SerO
8
9
+
10
PIEZO
SOUNDER
11
A
13
0V
220Ω
14
10k
RECEIVER & ALARM UNIT
Wireless
rain alarm
This rain alarm can be used on
wash days to detect rain falling on a
sensor unit located near your clothes
line. It uses an AC voltage across a
pair of closely-spaced PCB tracks to
detect moisture. The resistance between the strips drops considerably
when wet, triggering the alarm. The
applied 20kHz AC voltage avoids
electrolytic corrosion on the copper
strips, as would be the case with a
K
D2
1N4004
12
ICSP
HEADER
84 Silicon Chip
S1
+V
LK1
Vcc
POWER
10 µF
1
A
6V
BATTERY
(4x AA)
ALARM
λ LED2
K
LEDS
1N4148
1N4004
A
A
K
DC voltage or current.
The sensor unit is based on a
PICAXE14M2 (IC1) and a ZW3100
433MHz transmitter module. The
20kHz signal is generated using the
BASIC “pwmout” command and appears at pin 7 of IC1 (output C0). This
is coupled to the rain sensor via a 1kΩ
current-limiting resistor and 100nF
AC-coupling capacitor. The output
of the sensor is rectified by D3 and
D4, filtered by a 100nF capacitor and
K
K
A
buffered by op amp IC3, then applied
to analog input pin 3 of IC1.
The software monitors this voltage via an internal analog-to-digital
converter (ADC) and when the voltage exceeds 2V the alarm sequence
is triggered. Alarm calls are transmitted by turning on output pin 9
on IC1, powering the TX module’s
VCC pin, while output pin 11 on IC1
sends an 8-byte alarm code to the TX
module’s DATA pin using the “rfout”
command. LED1 flashes once when
the unit is turned on and each time
siliconchip.com.au
an alarm code is sent.
The receiver unit is based on a
56pF
FILTERED
+12V
220nF
1.5k
33k
1.5k
680pF
C
10 µF
Q2
B
AUDIO
IN
1.5k
25V
TANT
27pF
82pF
2N2222A
C
B
Q3
E
B
E
E
4.7k
EXISTING
20pF CAP
Q1
B
E
C
AM MODULATED
RF OUTPUT
C
10 µF
6.8k
270pF
1400kHz
LOCAL OSC
COUPLING
COIL
25V
TANT
C
10 µF
4.7k
7.5k
390Ω
25V
MOD
LEVEL
VR1
1k
Q4
B
E
1k
560Ω
560Ω
2.2 µF
35V
TANT
4.7k
Q1 – Q4: PN3643 OR 2N2222A
AUDIO
IN
4.7 µF
3.9k
a single 1N60 diode
(see diagram). So I
1N60
AM MODULATED
20pF
RF OUTPUT
K
A
came up with a much
better modulator circuit (shown above)
3.9k
1400kHz
and now it sounds
LOCAL OSC
much better.
COUPLING
EXISTING MODULATOR
COIL
The audio signal is
(VERY POOR LINEARITY)
applied to the base of
Q1, a 2N2222A or equivalent. This
Improved amplitude
acts as a common-emitter amplifier
modulator
with a 680pF Miller capacitor to
Audiovox converters still turn up limit its bandwidth. VR1 controls the
on eBay from time to time. These amount of emitter resistor bypassing
are basically FM tuners that plug in and thus the gain.
series with the antenna wire to an
NPN transistors Q2, Q3 & Q4 form
AM radio and put the received FM the modulator. Q3’s base is biased
station, amplitude modulated, onto to half supply by two 4.7kΩ resisa 1400kHz (or thereabouts) carrier tors with the voltage stabilised by
so the AM radio can receive it. They a 2.2µF bypass capacitor. Q2’s base
are useful additions to vintage cars or is biased to the same DC voltage via
vintage radios so that you can receive another 4.7kΩ resistor however the
FM stations on the original AM radio.
1400kHz local oscillator is also couI fitted one to my Triumph TR4A pled to its base via a 56pF capacitor,
but much to my dismay, the distor- modulating its base voltage and thus
tion was woeful. I opened the Audio- collector current.
vox converter up and discovered that
Since Q2 & Q3 have their emitters
their modulator was basically just tied together and together supply
PICAXE14M2 (IC2) and the ZW3102
receiver module. Transmitted codes
are picked up by the RX wireless
module and drive input pin 3 on IC2.
The software uses the “rfin” command, then checks if the alarm code
is correct before triggering the alarm
sequence. Alarm LED2 flashes once
when the unit is first turned on and
once a second for an alarm.
LK1 determines if the alarm sound
has four or 12 beeps, while LK2 selects a delay of 10s or 30s between
alarm sounds. Internal pull-up resistors are enabled at pins 5 & 7 by
the software. The piezo transducer
siliconchip.com.au
is
driven in bridge mode, ie, with
signals of opposite phase from pins
9 & 11, to provide sufficient volume.
The transmitter and receiver modules require an antenna in the form
of a length of plastic or enamel-coated wire 170mm long. This antenna
wire can remain straight or be coiled
into a spiral. Rain sensor panels can
be made using Veroboard or etched
on a PCB and the circuit shows the
general layout with two interlocking
grids. The prototype sensor uses a total of 20 strips and is 55mm square.
Sensor panels with plain copper
strips will require regular cleaning
while PCB-based strips can be plated
with tin, nickel or gold for minimal
cleaning.
The sensor unit and alarm unit are
current to Q4, if the total current remains the same, when Q2 provides
more current (due to a higher base
voltage), Q3 provides less, thus reducing the voltage across its 1.5kΩ
collector resistor and increasing
Q3’s collector voltage. As a result,
the 1400kHz signal appears at Q3’s
collector where it’s coupled to the
AM radio via the pre-existing 20pF
capacitor.
The total current through Q2 &
Q3 is determined by how hard Q4
is switched on, which in turn depends on the audio signal applied to
its base. So as the audio signal voltage rises, Q4 sinks more current and
Q2 & Q3 in turn must supply more,
thus increasing the amplitude of the
1400kHz output signal.
Similarly, when the audio signal
voltage falls, Q2 & Q3 supply less
current and so the 1400kHz output
signal amplitude drops. Thus, the
audio signal modulates the local oscillator gain.
Hugo Holden,
Minyama, Qld. ($60)
both powered by 6V batteries; each
has a power switch and a series diode
to reduce the voltage to just over 5V,
while also providing reverse battery
protection.
The same code is used for both
IC1 and IC2. The software checks the
voltage level on pin 8 and runs the
transmitter code if the pin is high and
the receiver code if the pin is low.
The chips can be programmed using
the ICSP headers provided with a
PICAXE-compatible USB cable. The
rain_alarm14m2.bas software can be
downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website (free for subscribers).
June 2016 85
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($70)
Circuit Notebook – Continued
+5V
MICROMITE
LCD
BACKPACK
DDS GENERATOR MODULE
1
+5V
2
RESET
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
9
7
DGND
SDATA
7
SCLK
6
AD9833
DDS
WFM
FSYNC 8
GENERATOR
AGND
VOUT
10
10
+5V
14
16
100nF
8
17
7 P0 B
18
1
P0 W 6
21
8 LT1010
24
25
1
26
2
3.3V
3
2x
10k
5V
CS
100 µF
SDI/SDO
–5V
10k
100nF
ANALOG
GROUND
Vss
4
A
DIGITAL GROUND
B
W04
+~~–
C
INCREMENTAL
ENCODER
+5V
A
F1
POWER
T1
M2155
BR1 W04
15V
~
7805
100mA
MAINS
INPUT
OUTPUT
47Ω
6
MCP4131–
103E/P
SCK
PEC16–4220F–N0024
GND
3
CN8
5 P0 A
22
100nF
+5V
Vdd
230V
N
7.5V
0V
REG1 7805
+
–
~
OUT
IN
2200 µF
GND
100nF
GND
IN
GND
22 µF
OUT
7 9 05
E
470 µF
12.5MHz touch-screen
function generator
This function generator can produce a sine, triangle or square wave
output from 0.1Hz to 12.5MHz in
0.1Hz increments and the output
amplitude is adjustable. It also provides a frequency sweep facility.
As well as the touch screen interface, provided by a Micromite LCD
BackPack, a rotary encoder knob can
be used to change the frequency or
amplitude.
The LCD BackPack provides overall control while a small AD9833based DDS module (available on
eBay) generates the signal. An MCP
4131 10kΩ digital potentiomet
er
provides digitally controlled attenuation and an LT1010 buffers the output to source or sink up to 150mA.
Besides a few resistors and ca86 Silicon Chip
100nF
GND
IN
OUT
22 µF
–5V
IN
GND
IN
OUT
REG2 7905
pacitors, the only other components
are the rotary encoder for the knob
interface and a linearly regulated
±5V power supply derived from
a small 15V centre-tapped mains
transformer.
The BASIC software on the BackPack presents the touch-screen user
interface and based on the user input, sends SPI serial commands to
the DDS generator module using
pins 3 (data), 25 (clock) and 9 (frame
sync/slave select). Both the DDS
generator and BackPack module are
powered from the +5V rail.
The BackPack also controls the
digital pot using SPI with the same
data and clock lines but this time
using its pin 10 output as the chip
select line.
Depending on the command sent
to the MCP4131, the “wiper” pin
(pin 6) is connected somewhere
along a resistor ladder between pins
5 & 7, via internal transistors. This
has the same effect as rotating a
potentiometer in controlling the attenuation between pins 7 & 6.
The LT1010 power buffer has a
specified bandwidth up to 20MHz
so has no problems handling the
signal from the DDS, although highfrequency triangle and square waves
may see a little rounding. Its total
harmonic distortion figure is somewhere around 0.1-0.2%.
The LT1010 runs off the 10V split
supply (+5V and -5V). Its output is
AC-coupled via a 100µF electrolytic
capacitor to remove the DC bias from
siliconchip.com.au
OUT
100nF
10k
D1 1N4004
REG1 7805
+5V
K
IN
100nF
470 µF
+9V
0V
λ
LED1
START/RESET
K
S2
100nF
VR2
10k
+5V
20
1
21
7
Vcc
AVcc
RESET/PC6
ADC3/PC3
ADC2/PC2
VR1
10k
AIN0/PD6
28
27
14
1k
ADC4/SDA/PC4
AIN1/PD7
PD4
IC1
ATMEGA
8A–PU
PB0
PD3
PD2
TXD/PD1
1k
11
19
18
17
16
15
26
12
4
13
6
RXD/PD0
PD5
PB5/SCK
ADC1/PC1
PB4/MISO
ADC0/PC0
PB3/MOSI
XTAL2/PB7
PB2/SS
XTAL1/PB6
PB1
GND
8
GND
22
15
2
Vdd
25
RS
BLA
16 x 2
LCD MODULE
ADC5/SCL/PC5
COUNTER
PULSE IN
1k
150Ω
AREF
+5V
FREQUENCY
IN
S1
A
GND
470 µF
A
EN
CONTRAST
D7 D6 D5 D4 D3 D2 D1 D0 GND R/W
1
5
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7
6
5
3
VR1
10k
BLK
16
4
3
2
47Ω
24
23
150Ω
10
9
X1 8MHz
A
LEDS
ALARM
SPEAKER
λ LED2
22pF
22pF
K
A
K
7805
S7
1N4004
TIMER
UP
S6
TIMER
DOWN
S5
COUNT
UP
S4
COUNT
DOWN
FREQ.
METER
S3
A
Combined timer, counter & frequency meter
This circuit provides an up/down
timer, an up/down counter and a
frequency meter in one package. It
is based on an AVR ATmega8 and a
16x2 alphanumeric LCD. The timer
and counter share an alarm system
consisting of a speaker which can
play a melody and a blinking alarm
LED (LED2). Each function can be
selected by operating its associated
switch (S3-S7).
At power-up, S3-S7 should be off
and VR2 and VR3 set to minimum.
S1 can then be switched on to power
the unit up. At this point, you use
VR2 and VR3 to set the alarm to a
specified value ranging from 1 to
1000 with VR2 or 10 to 10,000 with
VR3. Using VR2, the count increments one by one, from 1 to 1000
the DDS, along with a 47Ω resistor
to protect against short circuits and
isolate any load capacitance from
the output of the LT1010.
The power supply incorporates a
100mA mains fuse and mains switch.
The output of the 15V centre-tapped
siliconchip.com.au
(eg, 1, 2, 3, etc.). Within this range,
it is better to use only VR2. Pot VR3
increments by 10 (eg, 10, 20, 30, etc),
from 10 to 10,000.
For values beyond 1000, rotate
VR3 first and then VR2 for the remainder of your chosen value. The
display will show the sum of VR2
and VR3. Thus with both pots set
to minimum, the display will show
zero, and with both pots set to maximum, the screen will display 11000.
Both the up/down timer and up/
down counter times are set using
these pots.
Once the timer has been set with
VR2 and VR3, turn on switch S7 and
press S2 to start the count-up timer.
The upper line of the display shows
the counter and the lower line shows
transformer is full-wave rectified
by BR1, charging different-sized
capacitors for the positive and negative rail, as the positive rail is more
heavily loaded.
Standard 7805/7905 linear regulators are used with 100nF input
K
GND
IN
GND
OUT
the target value. As soon as the timer
reaches the target, the display indicates “Time Is Over” and a short
melody is played for three seconds
followed by the blinking of alarm
LED2. Once the melody is finished,
the display shows that the program
has ended but LED2 will flash until
the reset button is pressed.
You can pause the timer by turning timer switch S7 off. If S7 is
turned on again, the timing will continue. A similar procedure is used
for the count-down timer except S6
is used to initiate it.
The up/down counter works the
same as the timer except instead of
counting seconds, it counts pulses at
the PB0 input of IC1 (pin 14). The signal source should be a square wave
or pulse train with an amplitude
continued on page 100
bypass capacitors and 22µF output
filter capacitors.
The BASIC source code and user
manual PDF are available as a download from the SILICON CHIP website.
Dan Amos,
Macquarie Fields, NSW. ($70)
June 2016 87
Vintage Radio
By Terry Gray
The AWA 461 MA clock
radio & the Heathkit
RF signal generator
Restoring a vintage radio can be timeconsuming, particularly if you also have
to fix the gear that’s meant to help fix the
radio. In this case, I started out restoring
an AWA 461 MA clock radio and ended
up also repairing a Heathkit RF signal
generator and a Racal frequency counter.
I
T STARTED out innocently enough
when my thoughtful, ever-loving eldest son presented me with an old radio
“to repair”. “Happy Birthday Dad”.
I had a small radio and TV repair
business when I was a lad so it was
not unreasonable for him to imagine
that I would be interested in spending
some of my retirement bringing an old
radio back from the dead. After all, I
still played around with electronics
and had a scope, a soldering iron and
other parts on hand.
88 Silicon Chip
I had even designed a few bits of test
gear for our local BMW dealer over the
last few years, so how hard could it be?
My son bought the radio from a
second-hand shop in Sydney. It was
an AWA 461 MA superheterodyne
clock radio in a burgundy plastic case
that really looked the worse for wear.
It was missing several knobs and the
scratched tuning dial featured all the
popular NSW stations, so it wasn’t
much use here in Victoria.
Nevertheless, a smile and a hug
sealed the deal. “You’ll have fun with
that” were my son’s parting words.
If I had known then what I know
now, I would have fed the thing into
the nearest compactor but that’s not
the way families operate is it? No; I
now had an obligation, an absolute
duty, to make my son proud of his
gift – and of his Dad who will surely
make this thing look and work like
new. Gulp!
It was some months later when I
finally got around to looking at it. Unfortunately, if the outside looked bad,
then the inside looked even worse.
Someone had obviously been playing
with the clock mechanism, as it was
missing many pieces and may even
have overheated at one stage. All four
valves were present at least but to this
crotchety old gift recipient, this radio
was an absolute waste of time. In short,
it was a veritable write-off.
A few days later, I found myself
complaining along those lines to my
neighbour and friend John who lives
across the road. John is a vintage radio enthusiast who has years of experience in these matters, hundreds of
radios and no sympathy for whingers
like me. “Just fix the !<at>#$% thing”, he
said, “here, use this for parts”.
He then presented me with a cream
version of the exact same model radio
from his vast collection. Wow! Such
generosity. I instantly had a few more
knobs, another clock mechanism, and
a “Radiola” label for the front of my
burgundy cabinet. This was progress,
especially as the gifts kept coming.
John then handed me a kit of replacement capacitors. “Change the capacitors first” he said. “It’s always the capacitors”. Thanks John.
Returning home suitably chastised
but with renewed enthusiasm, I found
a service manual for the AWA 461
MA radio at the impressive www.
kevinchant.com website. Here was
a complete schematic diagram (with
voltages), a parts list and alignment
information. Great!
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit of the AWA 461 MA clock radio. It’s a fairly conventional 4-valve superhet set with a 6BE6 converter,
a 6AU6 IF amplifier, a 6BV7 detector/AGC/audio output stage and a 6X4 rectifier. It also incorporates an electric clock
with an alarm to switch on the radio at the set time. (Circuit courtesy www.kevinchant.com).
I swapped out the electrolytic capacitors in both radios, as well as some
of the black non-polarised capacitors
that had visibly cracked open. Some of
the remaining capacitors looked OK to
me and seemed to react appropriately
when connected to my multimeter.
However, I couldn’t be sure if their
values had drifted, so I logged on to
eBay and purchased a capacitor tester.
It wasn’t very expensive but I was confident that it would prove useful. The
buying spree had begun.
With both radios now displaying
some sort of life, I checked that the voltages at various points on the circuits
were reasonable. Some valves were
faulty but I had enough in my spare
parts drawers to swap them around
so that I ended up with reliable sets.
The next obvious problem was reception. A few faint and garbled stations appeared in the background
when I powered the radios on but as I
live in the Dandenong ranges opposite
some powerful phone towers and in a
house full of switchmode LED lighting,
what chance did I have? Even stringing
an antenna wire outside and ensuring
I had a good ground wasn’t enough to
ensure good reception.
Both radios performed similarly so
siliconchip.com.au
The 461 MA’s chassis layout is clean and uncluttered, with all parts readily
accessible. The clock mechanism is in the centre, next to the loudspeaker, and
is fitted with a dust cover.
it appeared that lack of signal was the
only problem. Indeed, even my car
radio struggles at home until I drive
some distance away. Perhaps if I used
an RF generator, I could simulate some
stations and tweak the alignment to
improve performance.
The Heathkit generator
It turned out that another friend
(Ron) had an old Heathkit RF signal
generator with a handy modulation
option. You probably recognise the
Heathkit name. From 1955 to about
1990, they manufactured a big range
of electronic kits, including radios and
test equipment. It was possible to buy
them fully assembled for a few dollars
extra but the vast majority were sold
in kit form to be assembled by cusJune 2016 89
unused in his shed, so he was happy
to lend it to me. I so wish he hadn’t!
Ron’s RF generator came with a
frozen band-switch and a power lead
with a missing plug. It also had old
microphone output connectors on
the front that are all but useless these
days and so, with Ron’s permission, I
changed these connectors to the more
common BNC type. I then fitted a
new mains plug, lubricated the bandswitch so that it rotated and powered
the beast on.
Everything seemed to work OK. The
indicator light on the front of the instrument came on with what seemed
like normal brightness and, with my
radios whistling away in the background, I could easily tell that the unit
was working. I played around with it
for a while and eventually felt confident that it could provide the signals
I needed for my alignments.
Another clock radio
This Heathkit IG-102S RF signal
generator was lent to me but it soon
failed when I attempted to use it.
tomers whose skill level could best
be described as “varied”. While some
obviously didn’t know which end to
hold the soldering iron, others did a
very professional job indeed and I was
really hoping that Ron’s unit came
from the latter group.
This Heathkit RF signal generator
was sold from 1963 to 1977 and the
IG-102S “S” model would have been
developed towards the end of that
period. What I didn’t know then (but
do now) is that the “S” indicates that
it is a Berkley Physics Lab version of
the instrument. It came with extra RF
output connectors which provided a
high-level direct output RF option and,
according to a YouTube video, is not
suitable for radio alignment due to the
high RF levels radiated from the extra
connectors.
That seemed to be a big call to me.
It would surely be a simple matter to
disconnect the high-output connectors inside the unit if stray radiation
proved to be a problem.
While I was blissfully unaware of
all this at the time, so was Ron. Apparently, he had never used this instrument and it had been given to him
when he helped clean out someone’s
warehouse. From then on, it just sat
90 Silicon Chip
It was about then that I came across
another Burgundy AWA 461 MA clock
radio (just like the one my son gave
me), this time on eBay. Happily, this
one had all its knobs and it looked to
be in very nice condition indeed with
few, if any, scratches.
I accept that this is getting a bit like
the story about grandpa’s axe having
had its handle and head changed several times, with the claim that it was
still grandpa’s axe. However, there was
no way that I could get the cabinet on
the set my son gave me to look as good
as the one on eBay, so I entered the
bidding war. It ended up being a tad
expensive and it had to be picked up
way across the other side of town but I
was committed now and was obviously becoming more so as time went by.
When I went to collect my new radio, I discovered that it wasn’t the only
radio that the seller had. Like John,
here was another enthusiastic collector of vintage radios who proudly
showed me his assorted collection of
different makes and models. During
the tour, I reflected that while he had
this amazing gallery of radios, I now
had a sum total of just three. And mine
were all the same!
My latest purchase proved to be as
good a radio as advertised. The case
had very few marks and its dial featur
ed Victorian stations. The seller also
kindly showed me how he polished his
plastic cases with very fine grit emery
paper and plastic polish. He even gave
me some to take with me and I was
beginning to think that it pays to look
impoverished; people give you stuff!
Back home, I pulled all three radios
apart and started with the clock mechanisms. Sadly, out of the three radios,
none of the clocks worked reliably, so
I had to swap assorted shafts and gears
around in order to get a single working unit. This clock mechanism, by the
way, incorporates the power switch,
an alarm function and a devilishlydesigned “snooze” function that is
entirely mechanical.
The best knobs were then selected
and popped into my ultrasonic bath
to be cleaned up. They are far from
perfect but are good enough and, at
least, I now had a full set.
I then asked John if he had a frequency counter I could borrow so that
I could get the alignment as accurate as
possible. I wasn’t worried about having
the IF off by a few Hertz but I certainly
wanted the radio stations to line up to
the markings on the dial. Some radio
station frequencies have shifted since
this radio was made, of course, and
some have even disappeared all together, but I planned to get everything
as close as possible by following the
prescribed alignment procedure.
Anyway, John presented me with an
old Racal 9835 Universal Counter. He
thought it worked OK but typically,
when I turned it on, it didn’t.
I opened it up and found that the
AC/DC input selector switch on the
front panel had fallen apart internally.
As a result, I bought a standard slide
switch to replace it but its plastic lever needed a lot of filing to make it fit
correctly in the case opening. The frequency counter worked after that but I
then noticed that the least significant
Nixie tube wasn’t lighting up.
Blast! I can’t be sure but I’m confident that it would not have been working when John first gave it to me. And
so, rather than have something else go
wrong, I put the Racal aside and ordered a cheap but cheerful frequency
counter from Asia (more money out
the door). I also ordered some alignment tools online (no knitting needles
for me) and when they finally arrived,
I felt that I finally had everything I
needed to align my radios.
The instructions provided with the
Heathkit RF signal generator advised
allowing some 15 minutes or so for
both the radio and generator to warm
up and “stabilise” before commencing
siliconchip.com.au
The black non-polarised capacitors in the AWA 461 MA’s chassis were eventually all replaced with modern high-voltage
equivalents, as were all the electrolytics. In addition, the twin-core mains flex shown here was later replaced with a
3-core flex so that the chassis could be earthed.
alignment. And so I dutifully switched
everything on, set the generator to
“modulate” mode, and left the room.
I didn’t know it then, but my problems
were about to start in earnest.
What’s that smell?
Twenty minutes or so later when I
returned full of tea, biscuits and enthusiasm, I found my makeshift workshop awash with foul-smelling smoke.
The Heathkit generator was hot and
smouldering on the inside but luckily
its metal case ensured that the internal
fire hadn’t spread.
Suddenly, the lack of a mains fuse
in the device, plus the absence of any
sound from our smoke detector in
the passageway outside, seemed very
scary indeed. So why had the generator
gone up in smoke? And why had the
smoke detector not sounded an alarm?
I thought I’d better tackle the smoke
detector first. It was only four years old
and it still gave out regular red flashes,
indicating (you could say “pretending”) that it was working. Replacing
the fairly fresh battery and pushing the
“test” button did absolutely nothing,
so I had a dead smoke alarm. There
was nothing for it but to buy and fit
a new one.
I confess that having taken the alarm
down from the ceiling, I noticed (persiliconchip.com.au
haps for the first time) its now obvious “Test Weekly” notice. Prior to this
incident, I was mildly proud of my
conscientious annual smoke alarm
battery swapping but let me ask you
all this: who actually tests their smoke
alarm weekly? Certainly not this little
black duck.
I’m actually rather wary of the thing
to be honest. Its 85dB horn is so loud
that it would set my tinnitus-troubled
ears ringing for much more than the
prescribed week.
Anyway, I purchased and fitted a
new alarm (which interestingly didn’t
have a weekly test notice) and com-
The power transformer inside the
Heathkit RF generator ended up
a charred mess because someone
had modified the power supply.
mitted myself to test it every now and
again – with ear muffs on.
Back to the generator
Once the new smoke alarm had been
installed, I opened up the Heathkit
generator to find the mains transformer a charred mess. It was well
and truly cooked and a look at the
schematic diagram indicated that this
American-designed kit had a 110VAC
transformer! However, this unit had
obviously found its way to Australia
and even though it wasn’t fitted with
an Australian mains plug, it did have
a good-quality 3-core mains cord.
A closer look at what was left of the
transformer showed that it had two
primary windings wired in series, so I
was confident that this unit was indeed
designed to handle 230VAC. But why
had it failed so dramatically?
At first I told Ron that his generator
had fallen off the perch and that was
it. However, as I had borrowed the
thing, guilt drove me to try to return
it in working order, regardless of what
would be involved in fixing it.
To prove the lunacy of my quest to
bring this thing back to life, it is worth
noting that the price of an IG-102 kit
from Heathkit in 1976 was the princely
sum of US$44.95.
With Christmas fast approaching
June 2016 91
This close-up view shows the clock mechanism before restoration. Parts had to
be scrounged from three different chassis in order to repair it.
and many requests from my family
for gift ideas for the man who is impossible to buy for, I set my heart on
a Siglent SDG 1010 arbitrary function generator. The more I looked at
this product, the more impressed I
was. This thing could do everything I
needed in the signal generation stakes
for the rest of my time on earth.
Santa duly arrived as expected and
it was mine. As it is a digital device,
I simply select the type of waveform
I want, enter in the desired frequency
and the output level, set the modulation and “voila”, there it is. There’s no
need for a frequency counter now but
should I need one, even that capability is built in.
The Heathkit’s mains transformer
obviously needed replacing so I contacted Southern Electronic Services
in Dandenong South and gave them
the specifications: one secondary at
120VAC 20mA and another at 6.3VAC
1.2A (for the valve filaments and power indicator lamp). They did a great job
at a reasonable price and a few days later I had my replacement transformer.
It was slightly larger than the original
but a new mounting hole was drilled
and it fitted in the case just fine.
I then pulled out the circuit schematic and had a close look at the
Heathkit-designed power supply section. It showed a single solitary diode rectifier. Half wave rectification
would you believe? Wow; very basic
stuff indeed.
I found myself wondering why
Heathkit hadn’t added a few more di92 Silicon Chip
odes for a full-wave rectified supply.
The decision was probably due to cost
but I wasn’t all that impressed.
Imagine my surprise then when I
looked at the actual power supply
components inside the generator and
found that someone had, like me, decided that the power supply wasn’t
all that great and had built their own.
However, in place of the original single diode design, he’d used a voltage
doubler! What the . . .!
So the power supply, at least, was
nowhere near the original design. It
had all looked reasonably well built
when I first looked inside but I now
had no idea if anything else had been
changed, was the right value, or was
even the right way around!
I connected my multimeter to the
output of this redesigned power supply and instead of the specified 130V,
it read 300V! As the valves warmed
up and drew some current, this voltage fell to 220V or so but that was still
way over what it was supposed to be!
But that wasn’t the only surprise.
When I switched the “modulation”
function on, the voltage dropped to
50V! So what was going on here?
The cause was easy to find. The
modulation select switch had a 500nF
capacitor off one leg that was rated at
200V but it was now acting as a straight
piece of wire. In other words, it was a
dead short which went some way towards explaining why the transformer
had burnt out. Replacing it with a new
600V-rated component solved that particular problem.
According to the documentation
I found on-line, the original power
supply featured a dual 20µF 200V capacitor that was fitted inside a single
tubular case. I found a picture of one at
http://www.wb0smx.net/?p=1910 but
sourcing the exact same unit would
probably now be impossible.
After some thought, I decided that
the easiest thing to do would be to rewire the power supply so that it was
close to its original design. The electrolytic capacitors used in the doubler
were marked 24µF but measured 29µF
on my capacitance meter. That seemed
OK, so I used two of them with a new
2.2kΩ 1W resistor between them as the
original schematic specified.
I did make one change though. I
couldn’t help myself and replaced
the single diode with a bridge rectifier. While this would give a slightly
higher voltage than a half-wave rectifier, it would also have far less ripple,
which in an instrument such as this
seemed desirable.
Low RF output
With the nightmare realisation that
the unit might have been modified
fairly heavily in other areas, I then
explored further. The unit featured a
“modulation out” port that was meant
to supply an audio signal at around
400Hz. This was working – but at
180Hz!
It didn’t take long to discover that
the 0.01µF oscillator capacitor (C16)
was way off tolerance and replacing
that brought the frequency up to a
more acceptable 330Hz. However, the
RF output level was miserably low,
so much so that none of my counters
would register a signal unless the output was set to the absolute maximum.
A closer look around the pentode
output stage of the 6AN8 revealed
some clues. First, the cathode resistor
had been changed to 470Ω instead of
the 39Ω value specified on the schematic. This 470Ω resistor was a 1W
device and it had been getting hot!
Plate drive resistor R11 had also been
getting hot and was now effectively
open circuit, so I replaced it with a
new 680Ω unit.
The RF signal strength was still
negligible at the BNC connector so I
checked the input signal at the grid
of the 6AN8 pentode. It looked OK as
did the nice 40V peak-to-peak signal
at the anode. However, this healthy
signal was being heavily attenuated by
siliconchip.com.au
This chassis had been fitted with a new mains cord but had yet to have its black non-polarised capacitors replaced when
this photo was taken. All three radios worked after restoration but only one had a working clock.
the time it got to the output connector.
All that sat between the plate of the
pentode and the output connector was
a coupling capacitor and a few resistors. I replaced the capacitor first but
it made no difference. Unfortunately
though, I was really flying blind and I
really needed to know what the output
signal strength should be.
I downloaded several copies of the
user and construction manuals but
typically, while the index of every single one told me that the specifications
were on page 32, that was always the
one page that was missing. Just that
one wretched page – give me a break.
I then turned to YouTube and took a
look at some of the world’s most boring
videos of guys describing the minutiae
of this particular RF generator. And as
near as I could tell from these mindnumbing monologues, the output is
just 0.1V into a 50-ohm load.
Google also subsequently led me to
a couple of comments about the low
output of these generators and how
some owners had done away with the
valves altogether and installed FETs!
The logic here was that the 6AN8 was
struggling to provide a decent signal
into a 50-ohm load. Others had simply replaced 47Ω attenuation resistors
R14 and R16 with 220Ω resistors to
increase the output.
This was considered valid since
siliconchip.com.au
the generator didn’t have a calibrated
output as such. In addition, increasing the value of these resistors to lift
the output level would also improve
the signal-to-noise ratio.
So what did I do? I took the easy
way out and replaced the 47Ω resistors
with 220Ω resistors as suggested and,
at last, finally had a working generator. It now gave me 400mV peak-topeak at maximum output and while
it’s nothing like the 20V peak-to-peak
(into a 50-ohm load) that I get from my
Siglent, at least it’s usable.
In retrospect, it’s just possible that
the low output problem was the very
reason that the power supply was so
heavily modified in the first place.
It certainly allowed the unit to work
when I first turned it on but, of course,
it didn’t last long.
I won’t tell you how much this all
cost in time and money because Ron
may read it one day and say “you
shouldn’t have” and I will be forced
to punch him on the nose.
Remember the radios?
With the Heathkit generator all done
and dusted, I finally got back to looking at the AWA 461 MA clock-radios.
Remember them?
From this point on, it was all something of an anti-climax because, in
each case, the alignment procedure
went along fairly smoothly. I could
select 455kHz exactly with my Siglent
generator and, with 400Hz of modulation, could easily tweak the IF cores
for maximum output on my scope. The
front-end coils and capacitors were
then adjusted for maximum antenna
sensitivity and to align the stations
with the dial.
The three radios varied in their performance characteristics, so I simply
picked the best-performing chassis for
my final radio. I then straightened the
large dial pulley to ensure that it was
exactly square with the tuning shaft
(necessary to stop the tuning cord
leaping off the pulley every now and
again) and shortened the dial cord a
tad to increase the cord tension and
make the tuning as reliable as possible.
With the main radio finally assembled and looking the part, I turned it
on. The reception was still awful for
the reasons I had described earlier but
it was particularly bad now because,
given the festive season, I had covered
our property at her majesty’s insistence
with Christmas lights; you know, the
ones that flash on and off all the time
and generate interference.
Not much of the original radio
that my son gave me was used in this
set; only a knob and a clock shaft or
two. But he’ll never know . . . as long
SC
as you don’t tell him!
June 2016 93
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Introducing the Machineryhouse
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Drone Volt’s Janus 350 Ten-Camera
3D Virtual Reality Platform
The phrase “out with the old and in with the new” certainly comes to mind when you first lay your eyes on the
BS-5V Portable 240VAC Bandsaw.
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Virtual reality has a tremendous future and points to a
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Icom shows IP Advanced Radio System at CeBIT
Icom Australia exhibited at CeBIT 2016, showcasing the
IP Advanced Radio System which is a unique, innovative
and versatile IP two way radio communications system
that is designed to work over an existing wireless LAN
and IP networks.
The system provides licence free, yet secure communications, making this system cost effective and easy to use.
Along with the IP system, they also demonstrated their
traditional RF radios such as the IC-F1000 and the VEP-G3
gateway. The VEPG3 is designed to Contact:
enhance the com- Icom Australia
munication cov- Unit 1, 103 Garden Rd, Clayton Vic 3168
erage of a radio Tel: (03) 9549 7500
network and the Web: www.icom.net.au
siliconchip.com.au
convenience of radio usage by leveraging IP networking
technology with ease of implementation.
June 2016 95
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Fingerprint scanner
not recognising fingers
I recently built the Fingerprint Scanner Access Controller project from the
November 2015 issue. I wanted to use
it with a 12V DC relay to activate the
manual open button of my roller door
from outside the front driveway.
Right from the start things did not go
smoothly. All the wiring went OK but
trying to register any of my fingerprints
took an eternity – at least half a dozen attempts per finger and I tried the
middle and pointer fingers of each
hand, all moistened as per instructions. When they did eventually regist
er, not one of them would be recognised by the scanner and allow entry.
I then asked my wife to try with her
fingers but we had the same problems.
I re-read the article and changed the
scan resolution to low and we had a
little more success. This time it only
took three attempts to register the fingerprints but still would not allow entry once registered, except once when
it took a full one minute of finger pressing to accept my fingerprint. Hardly
satisfactory at the best of times, less
so if it’s pouring with rain!
Have any others had problems with
this project or have you posted any
Notes and Errata to overcome these
issues? All components are as per the
article and the module/JST lead were
from Little Bird. (P. C., Woodcroft, SA.)
• The Fingerprint Scanner prototype
had none of these problems and nor
did Altronics have problems with their
prototype kit. Registering a fingerprint
shouldn’t take so many attempts.
The problem would appear to be
with the fingerprint scanner itself. How
long are the connecting wires between
the fingerprint scanner module and the
SILICON CHIP unit? Keep these wires as
short as possible and away from any
electrical interference or mains wiring.
Also check that the module screen
is clean and that the internal blue LED
lights when a finger is placed on the
screen. The low resolution option for
the scanner is not recommended and
should not be required once the scanner is working properly.
Also, make sure the fingerprint
scanner serial number is registered
as described in the article first before
attempting use of the scanner.
Induction Motor Speed
Controller problem
I brought an Induction Motor Speed
Controller kit from Jaycar and I have a
few questions about it. I have an issue
where the LED continuously flashes
and the speed does not vary.
Other than that, the ramp works but
only ramps up not down. Everything
else works and it is running a 3-phase
motor. (K.W., via email.)
• The fact that it only ramps up suggests that there is a problem with the
DIP switch settings. Try running it in
3-phase external mode – see Fig.11 on
page 76 of the May 2012 issue. (Note:
the fault did turn out to be in the DIP
switch setttings).
Logic level Mosfets for
ultrasonic cleaner
I am attempting to build the Large
Ultrasonic Cleaner by John Clarke
(SILICON CHIP, August 2010). I am a
mechanical engineer and I’m good at
following instructions but not exactly
an expert on electronic circuits.
I found that the RFP30N06LE 30A
60V Logic Level Mosfets described in
the article are no longer available at
Digi-Key or Mouser. Could you please
suggest a part number for a replacement that will work? (B. S., via email).
• We can supply a pair of the equivalent logic-level Mosfets (IPP230N06L3)
for $5 plus postage. You can purchase them from our website at www.
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/1863
These Mosfets are also suitable for
substitution into the Ultrasonic AntiFouling Unit (September & November 2010 issues), Barking Dog Blaster
Micromite Boat Computer Has No ETA Readout
A question for Geoff Graham: does
the GPS Boat Computer featured in
the April 2016 issue give an ETA for
a destination? The Boat Computer
has a clock and shows the current
time and it also shows the current
speed and distance to the current
POI, so it should be able to calculate
an ETA. It would ideally show both
estimated travel time and ETA, as
they are both useful.
I don’t see any mention of ETA in
the article so presumably this would
require modifications to the BASIC
96 Silicon Chip
source code. (Anonymous, via tele
phone.)
• Geoff Graham replies: the ETA is
not shown as this is one of the things
that sounds simple but is not that
easy to do in practice. The calculation would be easy but there is not
a convenient place to display the
result — the POI part of the screen
is already full. I suppose that we
could have an extra display page
but then we would need some way
to switch to it.
Also there are so many other
things that could be displayed (distance travelled, travel time, etc) that
the Boat Computer would soon become a mess of options. I tried to
design the Boat Computer so that it
was intuitive for the user and in part
that meant keeping it simple.
As it happens, I have a new version of the software that’s just been
released. It fixes a couple of niggles
like an inconsistent pointer on the
compass rose and also adds more
POI “slots” but does not compromise
the ease of use.
siliconchip.com.au
(September & October 2012) and 40V
5A Hybrid Switchmode/Linear Bench
supply project (May & June 2014). The
critical Mosfet parameters are:
Breakdown voltage: 60V
Maximum DC current: 30A
Peak current: 120A
Power dissipation: 36W
Maximum on-resistance: 23mΩ <at> 10V,
41mΩ <at> 4.5V
Maximum gate voltage: ±20V
Input capacitance: 1200pF
Gate charge: 7nC
Turn-on delay/rise time: 9ns/3ns
Turn-off delay/fall time: 19ns/3ns
Finally, Altronics still have the kit
for the Ultrasonic Cleaner – see www.
altronics.com.au/p/k6021-high-power-ultrasonic-cleaner-kit/
Synchronous motor
speed controller
I’ve been asked to make a controller
for small synchronous motors, typically
20-30mA, 50Hz single-phase 230VAC,
no start caps or switches. They are fairly
lightly loaded through a gearbox.
After considering various methods,
such as driving a transformer with an
audio amplifier, I’m wondering if a
simpler, cheaper and less bulky option
might be something based on the Induction Motor Controller (April 2012)
on a smaller scale using discrete IGBTs.
Would a capacitor-dropper be feasible for one or both of the low voltages
rather than transformers? “15V hot” in
your design has 0V in common with
High-Current Adaptor Power Supply
I’m in the process of building the
Isolated High-current Adaptor for
Scopes and DMMs from the August
2012 issue and was wondering about
a small change. Would it be possible
(or advisable) to power the adaptor
from a mains-derived power supply?
I only ask because I have a suitable
transformer on hand and a suitable
box which will take a 3-pin mains
socket and has room to fit a power
supply with a transformer, bridge
rectifier and 7809 regulator.
I’d like to avoid problems with
the rectified mains; the 3V3 supply
doesn’t.
One of the applications requires the
motor to occasionally turn at twice
normal speed for awhile (an hour or
two). 100Hz can be generated but will
the motor be able to keep up with the
driving wave? Is slipping going to be a
factor when increasing speed?
The motors I use with the Induction Motor Controller are also singlephase, connected across two of the
three phases available, so I presume
that for a dedicated usage only two of
the three phases need to be made. (J.
C., Auckland, NZ.)
• Check the turntable motor drive project in the May 2016 issue. It will drive
turntables at 50Hz, 220VAC or 60Hz,
110VAC. The sinewave is generated
possible battery chemical leakage.
Would there be any interaction detrimental to the operation of the device? (J. R., via email).
• Yes, you could power that circuit
from a 9V DC supply derived from
the mains. Just make sure the wiring provides sufficient insulation to
maintain the isolation barrier. The
battery was used mainly for convenience and flexibility, ie, allowing
the device to be used to measure DC
current and low-voltage AC as well
as mains currents.
by a micro and fed to pair of class-B
amplifiers driving step-up transformer
in bridge mode.
We don’t have any facility for varying the speed over a really wide range.
Note that if you double the drive frequency, the power delivered to the
motor will be substantially reduced
because of its inductance.
Also note that synchronous motors
do not have trouble “keeping up with
the driving wave”. They are locked to
the drive signal and there is no slip as
there is with induction motors.
Remotely switching
WiFi modem on & off
I would like to suggest a project. I
wish to turn off my WiFi modem to re-
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June 2016 97
Using A CDI On A Motorbike With Twin Coils
I found your website while researching building my own CDI for
an old Suzuki GN400 street bike. I
have tried many other CDI units on
the GN400 but none really work well
because the GN400 actually uses two
trigger coils. One coil is for starting/
idle and fires 10° BTDC and the other
is fired 35° BTDC for engine speeds
above 2500 RPM.
I once got the engine running on
a Honda CH250 CDI, wired to the
35° coil. It was quite painful to start
but it ran like a banshee once it was
running!
I also have a CDI from a Suzuki
SP500 which is DC-fired like the
original CDI for the GN400. However,
the SP500 CDI uses a 2-wire trigger
coil, so I’m not sure I could connect
a single-wire trigger coil to the 2-wire
input on the SP500 CDI.
Is it possible to build a homemade
CDI that would use both the trigger
coils on the GN400? Both coils have
one wire routed to the CDI because
they each ground to the igniter coil
plate on the engine case.
I’m thinking that using both trigduce RF interference, save power and
minimise the possibility of accidental/
unauthorised WiFi use.
Switching off at the power point is
useless if using a shared power board
or a power point hidden away. I would
like to remotely switch on/off the DC
coming from the 9/12V power pack.
Can I please suggest a remote-controlled DC power switch, preferably reusing an existing TV remote controller.
It would sit between the power pack
and the modem. The unit could have
a user-selected default to ON or OFF
if mains power is interrupted.
Using a PIC would be great, giving
the potential for a timer to be incorporated later. (T. R., via email).
• There are several ways to do this.
You could use one channel from the
9-Channel Infrared Remote Control
project from September 2015 (www.
siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2015/September/Build+A+9-Channel+Infrare
d+Remote+Control).
Another option is the remote control used in the Barking Dog Blaster
from the October 2012 issue. This
used a commercial remote control
98 Silicon Chip
ger coils will give me a more desirable advance curve than using only
one trigger coil. Or perhaps I could
add in a tunable feature to the 35°
coil input?
Any help is much appreciated. (A.
V. H., via email.)
• Presumably the two trigger coils
could be tied together using diodes
(say 1N4004s) with the diode anodes
to the coil and the cathodes (striped
end) connected together to provide
the trigger signal for the CDI. We suspect that the 10° coil would produce
a higher signal level at low speed and
whilst starting and the 35° advance
trigger coil offers a suitable trigger
voltage once the engine is running
at speed.
This 35° advance trigger coil would
trigger the CDI before the 10° trigger
coil, thereby bypassing the 10° triggering. So presumably a standard CDI
could be used but with the isolating
diodes added to the two trigger coils.
Note that the 10° coil could use
the opposite polarity for triggering
compared to the 35° advance trigger coil. So the polarity of the diodes
from Kitstop (www.kitstop.com.au).
See a preview at: www.siliconchip.
com.au/Issue/2012/October/Wireless
+Remote+Control+For+The+Barkin
g+Dog+Blaster
Yet another option is to use a remote
controlled mains switch to switch the
plugpack on and off at the mains supply – eg, Jaycar Cat. MS-6142 or Altronics Cat. P8119.
Alternatively, Oatley electronics
(www.oatleyelectronics.com) has a
range of remote controls – see http://
secure.oatleyelectronics.com/index.
php?cPath=47
VK2828 GPS module
connections for clock
I am assembling a “High Visibility
6-Digit LED GPS Clock” (SILICON CHIP,
December 2015 & January 2016) and
have some questions about the necessary components to correctly mount a
GPS module.
I have checked the specification
sheet for the module fitted to the prototype shown in the magazine article. On
page 45 of the December 2015 issue, it
may need to be determined experimentally should one or both of the
coils generate a negative trigger voltage. The diode for a negative trigger
voltage would need to be reversed.
We published a CDI for motorcycles in May 2008 (“Replacement CDI
Module For Small Petrol Motors”). A
preview of this is available at www.
siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2008/May/
Replacement+CDI+Module+For+
Small+Petrol+Motors
The SP500 CDI would appear to be
directly unsuitable for the grounded
trigger coil as used by the GN400. To
use the SP500, you could possibly
disconnect the ground connection
on the trigger coils, tie these together and connect to one of the trigger
inputs of the SP500 CDI. Then use
the diode arrangement for the other
trigger coil wires and connect to the
second trigger coil input of the CDI.
Note that the trigger coil connection to the SP500 may need to be
swapped, depending on the polarity
required at the input. Note also the
possibility that the trigger coil diodes
may need to be reversed in polarity.
states that two resistors are added to
CON2, one from +V to pull its enable
pin high. In the specification sheet it
only states “ENABLE/DISABLE: On
/ Off”.
I am trying to understand the reasons for the prototype model’s final
design layout and this specification
sheet information doesn’t help me.
The GPS module that I have is a
VK2828U7G5LF TTL GPS/GLONASS/
GALILEO module with antenna and
cable, as I purchased from the SILICON
CHIP On-line Shop.
I am surmising that because this
module has an RS-232 capability
(optional), I will need to add a 6.8kΩ
resistor in series with the TX connection. What determines the best value
to be used here? In the January 2016
article, it states that this resistance can
be 4.7-10kΩ. How do I determine the
correct value?
Does the “RX” connection need (like
the prototype model) a 470Ω resistor,
ie, when not in use this pin must be
kept high for operation? The specification sheet states: “From Vcc connect
a 470Ω resistor in series with a 3.2V
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CD-ROM Playback Adaptor Does Not
Recognise Remote
I built the CD-ROM Playback
Adaptor but when I go into the remote set-up mode, after a few seconds it shows “Press UNUSED”. I
tried several remote controls of TV,
CD, SAT, etc, with RC5 encoding but
none were recognised. The signal on
pin 12 of the Atmel micro arrives
properly but nothing happens and
it always remains on this screen
until reset.
Do you have any suggestions on
zener diode to Ground. Then, connect
the Rx input to the zener’s cathode to
pull the input high” (em408_ug.pdf
– ver 1.4.1).
I am assuming that this module’s
VCC pin can be connected directly to
the VBAT pin 6 on CON2. Likewise the
GND connected directly to pin 5 on
CON2. (N. A., Hamilton, Qld.)
• The GPS modules we supply are
TTL types; no series resistors are required. The optional RS-232 capability
has to be specified when the modules
are ordered. All of our projects call
for TTL signalling with GPS modules,
hence this is what we supply.
The GPS clock has an on-board 10kΩ
pull-up resistor for the RX pin. A lower
value could be used but should not be
necessary, We suggest using the 3.3V
this? (R. M., Lombardia, Italy.)
• An RC5 infrared transmitter
should work if you follow these
instructions. To assign the buttons
for the remote control functions,
press and hold switch S3, then toggle switch S1 for the orange LED
to light and then toggle S1 again
for the orange LED to turn off. You
then follow the on-screen display
instructions for pressing the remote
control buttons.
supply option with the VK2828U7G5.
As stated in the data sheet, connect
“EN” to the same pin as VCC to enable
the module. This module should not
require any connections to VBAT as it
should have an on-board battery (and
provides no connection for a batterybacked supply).
So to summarise: use a 3.3V supply,
connect GND on the module to GND
on the PCB, EN and VCC on the module
to V+ on the PCB, PPS on the module
to 1PPS on the PCB and TX and RX as
shown in the articles.
VK2828 GPS
module queries
I purchased one of these modules
from SILICON CHIP. I have the module
Circuit Notebook: Continued From Page 87
between 3V and 5V peak. Use VR2
& VR3 to set the maximum number
of pulses, then S5 or S4 to initiate
up or down-counting respectively.
As with the timer, when the counter
reaches zero (in count down mode)
or the target (in count up mode),
the speaker will play a melody and
alarm LED2 will flash. Switches S4
and S5 can be turned off during
counting. Pulses received during
this time will be ignored.
You may notice that when VR2 or
VR3 is set to maximum, the counter reads about 2% higher than expected. This isn’t harmful but if you
want to eliminate it, fit 1kΩ trimpots
connected as rheostats between the
positive rail and the positive end of
VR2 and VR3 and adjust them for a
maximum count of exactly 1000 and
10,000 respectively.
To use the frequency meter, turn
S3 on and S4-S7 off. Connect the
signal to pin 11 of IC1 (PD6) of the
micro. Now the LCD will display
working with the Enable not connected and data being sent at 9600 bits/sec.
There is a green LED flashing.
Does this indicate that the GPS is
locked or just that it is sending data?
Also should the enable line be connected to positive, ground or left disconnected? (R. S., Fig Tree Pocket, Qld.)
• There is a link to the module data
sheet on the shop page of our website
(in the item description). According to
the data sheet, Enable should be pulled
high for normal operation (ie, to VCC).
It also says “Green light flashing
means positioned” which we take to
mean that if the light is flashing (at
1Hz, presumably), then the module
has a position fix.
Electric Fence
Controller Triac
I’ve built the Electric Fence Controller from the April 1999 issue. I couldn’t
get formers for E30 cores so I used E29
assemblies instead. As they’re bigger, I
had to redesign the PCB and stretch it.
I originally tried using a BT137X
600E Triac from Jaycar. However,
when I fired it up, it lasted two pulses
then died. The second one died even
faster. It might be that the gate voltage
is too high.
Anyhow, I substituted a C122E
(500V) SCR left over from a long-abandoned 70s CDI project and it seems to
work OK on the bench. Now the circuit is very similar to a CDI, so can it
the frequency of the external source.
As with the counter input, the peak
voltage required is between 3V and
5V. The software uses both Timer0
and Timer1 for the frequency meter. Timer0 serves as a time reference while Timer1 is employed as
a counter. The maximum frequency
measured is 4MHz.
The software, AVRTimerCounter.
bas and AVRTimerCounter.hex can
be downloaded from the SILICON
CHIP website.
Mahmood Alimohammadi,
Tehran, Iran. ($65)
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We need it and will pay good money to feature it in the
Circuit Notebook pages. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque (what are they?) or direct to your PayPal
account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP on-line shop, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Whistle From Hifi Stereo Valve Preamp
I have built the Stereo Valve Preamp from the January 2016 issue and
I have a high-frequency, low-level
noise from both channels. I guess it
is around 6-10kHz and while its a
low level, it is audible.
I was wondering if there were any
changes to the power supply since
the January article or if this has been
raised by other readers/builders. I
have verified that all component
values are as per the article so I am
surprised there is the problem.
It would be nice to get rid of the
tone as it performs well otherwise
and it would be nice to use it in the
longer term. (G. H., Dandenong, Vic.)
• The most likely reason why there
would be whistle from both channels is that the MC34063 is running
at the wrong frequency. It should
run at about 100kHz, as set by the
150pF capacitor at pin 3. We tip that
the capacitor you have installed is
between 1.5nF (1500pF) and 2.5nF
(2500pF).
We note from the photos you sent
that you appear to have very little
ventilation in your preamp’s case.
That might lead to overheating if you
use it for long periods and would not
be good for the 39µF 400V electrolytic capacitors.
Note: the diagnosis proved to be
correct: the wrong capacitor had
been installed – Editor.
run OK with the SCR or will it reduce
the intensity of the pulse and/or cause
more RFI? (J. E., Coondle West, WA).
• The BT137X 600E fuses at a much
lower integrated current value (I2t)
than the originally specified BTA10600 Triac. So the charge in the 7µF capacitor could well destroy the device.
An SCR can be used in this circuit
as the voltage applied to it is only DC.
The C122E has a similar I2t rating to
the BTA10-600 and so should be suitable. The output to the electric fence
and the RFI shouldn’t be any different
than when using a Triac.
issue. The B&D 433MHz transmitters
would not work with this unit.
Note that the January 2009 remote
switch does not have much security
and it would be desirable to build a
higher security rolling code system
such as the one published in October
and November 2007. This incorporates
encoding that changes each time the
transmitter is used, making it virtually
impossible for anyone to open your
garage door without the correct transmitter. Altronics (www.altronics.com.
au) sell kits K1957 and K1958 for the
transmitter and receiver respectively.
Fixing a garage door
remote control
Converting a clock to
drive a giant display
I have a B&D Controll-a-Door 4 and
the receiver will no longer work and
cannot be replaced with a new unit as
they are no longer made. However, the
manual switch still works correctly,
raising and lowering the door.
I am thinking that if I had a receiver
that would operate a relay, I could use
this remotely. The relay could take the
place of the switch and be operated by
the remote from the car and a button
in the garage.
I have three remote transmitters, all
433MHz. The remote switch in SILICON
CHIP, January 2009 looks interesting
but would it operate using my transmitters? (N.G., Cohuna, Vic.)
• The remote switch from January
2009 could be used but you would
need to use the transmitter designed
for it, as described in the January 2009
I would like to convert a standard
230V digital clock to have giant displays, either large 7-segment displays
or made up from multiple single LEDs
and housed in a larger case. This
would be a simpler project than the recently published GPS clock with large
displays, as it just involves changing
the actual displays and keeping the
rest of the clock.
What do you think? (B. P., via email).
• Converting your digital clock to
large 7-segment displays could be a
difficult task.
For example, are the existing displays vacuum fluorescent or LED
7-segment, common cathode or common anode and is the clock supply
voltage high enough to drive the
large displays? And will you need
level translation between the clock
102 Silicon Chip
chip and the display drivers?
When all those aspects are taken
into account, building our large 6-digit
clock, with or without GPS, is a much
more straightforward task.
Ultra-LD power
supply voltage
I have almost completed two of the
Ultra-LD Mk.3 Amplifier kits from
Altronics and wish to use an existing
power supply (part of a Luxman 150
amplifier) which is rated to provide
(and measured off-load) ±52V. These
supplies have 15,000µF storage capacitors included.
Do you recommend that I make any
changes to any circuit values in view
of this slightly changed power supply
voltage? I have no intention of running
the modified amplifier at anywhere
near full power, believe me; my speakers are very efficient, being a JBL system with folded horns etc.
The Luxman 150 amplifier will use
the Ultra-LD amplifier modules in
place of the original amplifier modules
and the whole thing will be prettied up
with an extended frame at the rear to
accommodate the two new modules
and heatsink.
By the way, my choice of kits was
determined by the fact that there is
no way I could use the recent surfacemount version of the amplifier; at my
age my soldering hand is not steady
enough! Do keep up the good work in
the magazine. (M. M., Latrobe, Tas.)
• ±52V is close enough to the specified supply voltage that no changes
should be required. The power output
will be slightly reduced, as will heat
dissipation at idle and at low power
levels.
Passive volume control
for Ultra-LD amplifier
With reference to the Ultra-LD Mk.3
Amplifier (I know the Mk.4 is out but
I’m too old and clumsy to handle SMD
components!), I plan to build it purely
as a power amplifier; ie, no preamp. I
would therefore like to add a manual
(non-motorised) volume control pot at
the input. What is the best way to do
this without compromising its performance? (N. H., Flinders, Vic.)
• Use a dual-gang log potentiometer
of no more than 10kΩ. 5kΩ would be
a better value (lower noise) and if you
are using modern source equipment
siliconchip.com.au
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from adafruit, DFRobot, Freetronics,
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with same-day shipping.
PCB MANUFACTURE: single to multi
layer. Bare board tested. One-offs to
any quantity. 48 hour service. Artwork
design. Excellent prices. Check out our
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Radio. Study for the Standard or Advanced Licence with my books. Graeme
Scott, VK2KE. Visit www.gscott.com.
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LEDs, BRAND NAME and generic
LEDs. Heatsinks, fans, LED drivers,
power supplies, LED ribbon, kits, components, hardware, EL wire. www.ledsales.com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame Electronics Phone 0434 781 191.
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www.sesame.com.au
PCBs & Micros: SILICON CHIP can supply PCBs and programmed microcontrollers and other specialist parts for
recent projects and some not so recent
projects. Visit the Online Shop at www.
siliconchip.com.au to place your order
or phone (02) 9939 3295.
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Phone Keith 0409 662 794.
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DAVE THOMPSON (the Serviceman
from SILICON CHIP) is available to help
you with kit assembly, project troubleshooting, general electronics and
Announcing Pioneer Hill Software
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24bit/192kHz dual channel, Wolfson. AKM
converters … USB3 interface to laptop/PC
As 2ch. 24bit recorder t.h.d. = 0.002%max
see : www.spectraplus.com
Order direct, USA contact : John Pattee
(pioneer<at>spectraplus.com)
Local agent : DSCAPE Melbourne
s/w , h/w package ca. USD $1500
Aus. Distributor : Julian Driscoll CEO
jcdrisc<at>tpg.com.au for support
custom design work. No job too small.
Based in Christchurch, NZ but service
available Australia/NZ wide. Phone
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VINTAGE RADIO REPAIRS: electrical mechanical fitter with 36 years ex
perience and extensive knowledge of
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Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 102
such as a CD/DVD/Blu-ray player or
MP3 player it should not have trouble
driving such a load. In that case, 2kΩ
would be OK.
Basically, lower values are better
due to reduced thermal noise but you
don’t want to load down the signal
source equipment too much (the limit
depends on what it is).
siliconchip.com.au
Good quality log pots are likely to
have better tracking and low-end performance than cheap/no-name pots.
We suggest Alps, Bourns or Panasonic
brand potentiometers if you can get
them, using either cermet or conductive plastic material. Bourns has a
range of potentiometers designed for
amplifiers – see www.bourns.com/
products/proaudio/products Similarly, for Alps: www.alps.com/prod/
info/E/HTML/SearchList/SearchList1050_list1.html
Three-way
crossover advice
I am building a 3-way speaker system using Klipsch K33 15-inch bass
drivers, JBL midrange horns and JBL
Super Bullet tweeters. I want the
crossover frequencies to be around
350-550Hz and 3.5-5.5kHz. How can
I design a crossover to achieve this?
The midrange JBL driver has a
2-inch throat and is able to work down
to 350Hz with the JBL 2886B horn. The
June 2016 103
Notes & Errata
Ultra-LD Mk.2 Amplifier Module,
August & September 2008: in the
printed version of the magazine, on
page 71, the panel “Bullet-Proofing
The Ultra-LD Mk.2” reads “Fortunately, this was relatively simple
and involved adding a 22kΩ collector current-limiting resistor to Q9 (ie,
this resistor is connected between
Q9’s collector and ground).”
This statement is incorrect. The
resistor is, in fact, added between
Q8’s collector and ground to limit
the current through Q9, as shown in
Fig.18 on page 70 of the same issue.
Note that the panel has been removed from the on-line version as
the circuit diagram in the August
2008 issue on the website already
incorporates the changes mentioned
in the print edition.
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 103
JBL Super Bullet Tweeters go down
to around 3.5kHz (model 2402). The
cabinets are still under construction.
I have a 60W/channel class-A Amcron Power Line 3 stereo amplifier to
drive the woofers. I also have a Cary
Sixpac 50W/channel amplifier to drive
the mid-range loudspeakers. It uses
six EL34 tubes and is a Class-A monoblock. I intend to get a 12W/channel
tube amplifier to drive the tweeters.
Can you help? (F. J., via email.)
• Since you are using separate amplifiers for each driver, you will need
to use an active 3-way crossover. We
can’t advise you on the exact design
since we don’t have the details of the
enclosure, the efficiencies of the vari-
Advertising Index
Touch-Screen Boat Computer With
GPS, April 2016: version 3 (V3) software is now available for this project,
with the following improvements:
(1) Fixed a problem which may
cause the BASIC program to repeatedly crash and restart if a point of interest (POI) is created with longitude
and latitude set to 0° (the default).
(2) Now allows over 50 points of
interest (POI) to be created. In the
main selection screen, you now use
the PREV and NEXT buttons to take
you through the list of POIs.
(3) The heading indicator and POI
direction indicator are now suppressed when the boat is stationary.
(4) Improved rendering for the heading needle.
(5) Removed the slash from the zero
character in one of the fonts.
ous drivers and the required cross
over slopes (eg, 6dB/octave, 12dB/
octave etc).
However, we did publish a 3-way
active crossover design in the January
2003 issue which you may be able to
adapt for your purposes. We can suggest our Currawong valve amplifier
to drive the tweeters (October 2014
to March 2015): www.siliconchip.
com.au/Issue/2014/October/Currawong+Stereo+Valve+Amplifier%3A
SC
+A+Preview
Next Issue
The July 2016 issue of is due on
sale in newsagents by Thursday
23rd June. Expect postal delivery
of subscription copies in Australia
between June 23rd and July 7th.
Allan Warren Electronics............ 103
Altronics.........................loose insert
AV-Comm Pty Ltd........................... 7
Digi-Key Electronics.................. 3,25
DSCAPE.................................... 103
Emona Instruments.................... IBC
Glyn Ltd NZ.................................. 14
Hammond Manufacturing............... 6
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
High Profile Communications..... 103
Icom Australia.............................. 15
Jaycar .............................. IFC,49-56
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly ........ 103
LD Electronics............................ 103
LEDsales.................................... 103
Master Instruments........................ 9
Microchip Technology................... 17
Minitech Engineering................... 59
Mouser Electronics......................... 5
Ocean Controls............................ 16
Philips Monitors............................ 13
Rockby Electronics....................... 63
Rohde & Schwarz........................ 11
Sesame Electronics................... 103
SC Radio & Hobbies DVD............ 97
SC Online Shop............... 78-79,101
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 94
Silicon Chip Wallchart.................. 99
Silvertone Electronics.................... 8
Tronixlabs.............................. 10,103
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or
high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you
are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
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104 Silicon Chip
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