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Contents
Vol.31, No.8; August 2018
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
14 Introduction to Electroencephelographs (EEG)
The brain generates tiny electrical signals which can be detected on the
scalp – and you can monitor them (yours or someone else’s) to “look inside” your
brain waves – by Jim Rowe
28 Taking an Epic Voyage through your Alimentary Canal!
There’s been a breakthrough in medical technology recently with miniature
cameras built into tiny capsules. Many of them transmit photos and data to
health care professionals as they make their journey! – by Dr David Maddison
36 Review: Altium Designer 18
It’s the software we primarily use at SILICON CHIP for both PCB design and
circuit development. Recently we upgraded to Altium Designer 18, the new
version for 2018 – and there are many worthwhile tweaks – by Nicholas Vinen
Constructional Projects
18 Brainwave Monitor – see what’s happening in your brain
We put the theory into practice: with this Arduino-based project and a Windows
PC you can actually detect and view brainwaves There are even theories that
you can use the data to reduce stress and for other self-help – by Jim Rowe
42 Miniature, high performance sound effects module
Want to play audio tracks, model train sounds . . . in fact, just about anything?
This tiny PCB plays files from a microSD card, up to four at a time. And there’s
even an on-board 1.2W amplifier – by Tim Blythman & Nicholas Vinen
66 Turn any PC into a media centre – with remote control!
Build this low-cost controller to watch video, music, movies etc on your
computer, with the added benefit of infrared remote control using a standard
I/R controller (you’ve probably got one lying around!) – by Tim Blythman
76 Bedroom (or any room!) no-connection door alarm
Got pesky siblings invading your space? This simple-to-build (and cheap!)
alarm simply hangs on the door handle – and if they even touch it, you’ll hear
about it! No more sneaking up on you with this one – by John Clarke
Your Favourite Columns
57 Serviceman’s Log
Roped into fixing a friend’s dishwasher – by Dave Thompson
84 Circuit Notebook
(1) GPS or WiFi clock using a PIC and LCD screen
(2) 36/48V charger controller for golf carts, ebikes etc
(3) Measuring air pollution with an ESP32 module
(4) Dual high-power sinewave generator
(5) DIY magnetic connectors for batteries, magnetic locks and more
90 Vintage Radio
The AWA model B13 Stereogram from 1963 – by Graham Parslow
Everything Else!
2
4
71
82
Editorial Viewpoint
96 Ask SILICON CHIP
Mailbag – Your Feedback 103 Market Centre
Product Showcase
104 Advertising Index
SILICON CHIP Online Shop 104 Notes and Errata
How are brain waves detected – and
what do the squiggly lines mean?
Here’s the lowdown on what’s
happening in your brain! – Page 14
Swallow a pill, get the pics!
A tiny real-time camera in
a capsules can now give
health-care professionals
a “real time” image of
your alimentary canal to
detect problems – Page 28
Our Arduino-based Brainwave
Monitor detects and amplifies the
tiny signals in your
(or anyone else’s)
brain and displays
them on a PC
screen – Page 18
WOW! What a performer! It’s the best
Sound Effects (SFX) board ever
published! Reads
WAV files from an
SD card and gives
a huge range of control. And it’s so
tiny (just 55 x 24mm) – Page 42
Add Leonardo to
your PC and turn
it into a “smart”
media centre with
full infrared remote
control – Page 66
One for the kids! If you have
a brother or sister who likes
to sneak into your room,
give them a scare with our
Bedroom Door Alarm.
All they have to do is touch
the doorknob and . . .
– Page 76
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SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Editor Emeritus
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Bao Smith, B.Sc
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
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Editorial Viewpoint
New base-load power stations
are crucial
Despite the fact that many people have this romantic
view that Australia can continue to invest heavily in
renewable energy sources such as wind and solar, we
desperately need new base load power stations. Without a reasonable number of base load power stations,
we will inevitably be subject to serious blackouts. Not
only is this irritating for domestic consumers, it ultimately makes much of our heavy industry unviable. As existing coal-fired
power stations are decommissioned, they must be replaced with new ones.
So what are the options being discussed? With nuclear stations off the agenda, only two appear to be on the list; so-called HELE (High Efficiency Low
Emissions) coal-fired and the much criticised Snowy Hydro2.0 hydroelectric
option which is not base load but a peak load proposal. Taking the latter option first, most of the criticism of this proposal is just bog ignorance, with people scorning it because it delivers less electricity than is used to pump up the
dams. Well in the real world, this is the case with all rechargeable batteries
whether they run your smart phone, your car battery or whatever.
But Snowy Hydro2.0 is a very good (rechargeable battery) proposal which
will store and use excess renewable energy, then release it at peak loading
times. You can read more about pumped hydroelectricity schemes in the January 2017 article at siliconchip.com.au/Article/10497
HELE coal fired power stations should definitely be built in Australia and
construction needs to start as soon as possible. We have heaps of coal and it
makes no sense at all that we are one of the world’s biggest exporters of steaming coal but we are shutting down our cheapest power stations while China
and other countries are building new HELE stations as fast as possible – to
use that very same coal!
However, coal mining does have serious environmental consequences
whether it is open-cut or underground, and open-cut mines need huge areas
to be remediated at vast expense when the mines reach the end of their life.
But there is another fossil fuel option that does not even seem to be on the
table: combined-cycle gas-fired power stations. Australia has a few, such as
Darling Downs in Queensland, the Ichthys LNG project in Perth (not used for
base-load to consumers), Tallawarra in NSW and Pelican Point in Adelaide,
South Australia.
Combined-cycle gas-fired power stations are even more efficient than HELE
coal-fired stations, mainly because they operate at higher temperatures and use
waste-heat from the gas turbines to generate steam for a turbo-alternator. And
they have a major advantage in that they cause very little environmental damage and there is far less need for remediation at the end point for a gas field.
Mind you, they do have drawbacks and the main one is that due to the
very high operating temperatures in the main turbines of a combined-cycle
plant, the plant typically has an operating life of no more than 30 years. (See:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaki). Coal plants last much longer than that; 50 years
is not unheard of. Regardless of that, all three options should be proceeded
with. Otherwise, Australia’s economy will be in dire straits.
This will be my last editorial for SILICON CHIP. After 31 years, I am handing
the magazine over to Nicholas Vinen. I can assure you that the magazine format will stay much the same and there will be no “dumbing down” of the editorial content. On the other hand, perhaps some readers will be happy to see
me finally put out to pasture and no longer able to write those inflammatory
anti-global warming Publisher’s Letters, when I should have been concentrating on more prosaic topics more closely related to electronics.
Leo Simpson
Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2148.
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 3
MAILBAG – your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters
to the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and
has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask SILICON CHIP”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Cassette article brings back memories
The article on the Philips Compact
Cassette in the July 2018 issue of Silicon Chip certainly brought back memories for me.
I still remember using blue hexagonal Bic Crystal ballpoint pens to occasionally wind back the tape wheels
on the cassette when the tape became
slack.
I also remember breaking the tab off
the cassette to prevent accidental recording, which we also did with VHS
cassettes. We used isopropyl alcohol or
a cleaning cassette to clean the heads
of the cassette player.
And how can I forget Cliff Richard’s
song from the 80s, “Wired For Sound”,
dedicated to the Walkman?
I still have a Stereo Midi System
which can play cassettes and CDs;
many people have tossed theirs; they
may find that they want them back
again, as they find cassettes during
cleanups etc.
I enjoy reading these special features
as they bring back many memories.
Peter Casey,
West Pennant Hills, NSW.
Cassette article omitted 8-track history
I just finished reading Ian Batty’s excellent article on the Philips Compact
Cassette in the July issue but I am a little surprised that he did not mention
Decommissioning Nuclear
power plants
The many articles by Dr David
Maddison you have published over
the last few years have been wellresearched and prepared, making
for very interesting reading. That
includes the recent article on Generation IV Nuclear power reactors
in March 2018 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10996).
I would like to read an equally
well-researched and prepared article (or series of articles if necessary)
by Dr Maddison on the decommissioning of nuclear energy plants,
including:
4
Silicon Chip
the 8-track cartridge (Stereo 8) which
came after the reel-to-reel machines
and before the Compact Cassette.
The 8-track and the Compact Cassette, in fact, were competitors at
the time and although (I believe) the
8-track was superior in quality due to
the use of 6mm tape, the compact cassette won out due to its smaller volume. You could pack four Compact
Cassettes into the same volume as one
8-track cartridge.
Stereo 8 was also innovative in its
use of a single spool of tape fed from
the centre, out around a capstan and
back onto the outside of the spool. Incidentally, the plastic 8-track case was
also used to house ROM packs in early
computers. My Exidy Sorcerer computer uses such ROM Packs.
Perhaps an article on the introduction and demise of the 8-track would
make good future reading.
Brian Smart,
Myrtleford, Vic.
Hot water temperature and
Legionella bacteria risk
I just finished reading your response
to the letter titled “Hot Water System
article criticism”, in the Mailbag section of the March 2018 issue (page
11). In your response, you mentioned
“scalding from the hot water tap over
laundry tubs”.
• the procedures for reforming and
reclaiming nuclear fuel elements
(rods)
• the removal and storage of
“waste” fission products
• the dismantling of the reactor and
associated irradiated structures
• the reclamation of a nuclear energy power site so it can be released
for public use
I am particularly interested in
how long each of these steps takes.
I would also like to hear his opinion
on the source of, and the environmental problems presented by, the
increase (approx 43%) of atmospheric CO2 from pre-industrial times to
Australia’s electronics magazine
I don’t know about anywhere else
in Australia but in Victoria, the Victorian Building Authority (VBA) indicates that the laundry and kitchen
temperatures don’t have to be lowered
to 50°C as for the sanitary areas. See
the information at the following link:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aak8
Roderick Wall,
Mount Eliza, Vic.
Leo responds: thanks for sending the
link regarding hot water delivery temperatures. I found the section on avoiding dead ends (to prevent bacterial
growth) most interesting.
However, it does not contradict my
contention that a hot water tap in a
laundry could deliver scalding water
and that a tempering valve could be
fitted; in fact, it reinforces my point.
I am not suggesting that a tempering
valve should be fitted to reduce the water temperature delivered for washing.
Clearly, that would not be desirable.
An off-grid power system
for refrigerators
Your series of LiFePO4 UPS articles in
the May-July 2018 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/323) has prompted me
to write in about a large off-grid solar
the present (280ppm to greater than
400ppm).
Thanks for your consideration.
Col Hodgson,
Mount Elliot, NSW.
Response: thanks for your suggestion. That would certainly make for
an interesting article but it is a really
big topic and one which will require
a lot of research.
Also, we are concerned that these
topics mostly involve chemistry and
physics, with relatively little electronic or electrical involvement.
However, on the basis that it does
relate to electricity generation, we
will consider it.
siliconchip.com.au
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system that I built using similar components. It is intended to provide
enough power to keep my refrigerators running through long blackouts.
I was prompted to build this when I
discovered that a grid-tied inverter
would shut down during a blackout.
I am using a Giandel 2000W (4000W
peak) inverter, which is powered by a
12V battery bank that is kept charged
by solar panels. The solar panels are
connected in series to produce 300V
DC. My plan was to feed this to a
12V/20A mains battery charger (Dynahub HC-20A), which I got from eBay
for about $45.
The problem was that the charger
contained a small mains transformer
to run some of its electronics and this
meant it would only run from an AC
supply. My solution was to remove the
transformer, bridge rectifier and 15V
3-terminal regulator and replace them
with a small encapsulated switchmode
supply: a 2W-rated MeanWell unit
with a 15V DC output. This will run
from high-voltage DC.
I attached the encapsulated supply to the board using double-sided
tape, where the mains transformer
used to be.
The reason I am using an inverter
with such a high power rating is to ensure it can provide the large start-up
current of my two refrigerators. Once
they are running, they draw only a few
hundred watts at most.
It would be good to use a large 12V
lithium-ion or LiFePO4 rechargeable
battery like you used in the UPS project but these are about $500 at present. So I am using a large car battery
at the moment. It is sufficient to run
the fridges for several hours; blackouts in my area do not typically last
longer than that.
Roger Sanderson,
Fig Tree Pocket, Qld.
Who will remind the reminders?
I just read the July 2018 Recurring
Event Reminder project (pages 68-71)
and note that the first thing that stands
out is that it appears to be a digital
version of the old (analog) string tied
around a finger and as such comes
with the same problem – how does
one remember what the device was
set to remind one of in the first place?
One idea that comes to mind, if it is
finally built into a small plastic case,
would be to write on a sticker and
stick this onto the front of the case.
6
Silicon Chip
However, there must be better ways
of doing this.
However, that aside, the basic project looks very interesting.
Paul Myers,
Karabar, NSW.
Nicholas responds: it depends on what
sort of memory problem you have. I almost never forget an event; it’s just that
I usually remember it several hours after it was supposed to happen! So for
me, such a reminder could be quite
useful, simply to jog my memory at
the right time.
We think your idea of sticking some
kind of a label on the unit is a good
one but there are other options such
as using post-it notes or writing tasks
on a nearby pad, blackboard or whiteboard. These could be thrown away,
crossed out or erased once the tasks
are completed.
Advice on protection for micro inputs
There are lots of applications where
electronics of all varieties might need
to interface with the real world in less
than ideal environments – an Arduino
or Raspberry Pi in a vehicle would be
a good example.
Obviously, some level of protection
is required on both the inputs and the
power supply, although many examples can be found where little or no
such protection is provided.
How about an article describing
what protection might be required in
these sorts of environments, and the
options available to provide it? There
needs to be a reasonable approach as
to what is ideal versus what is practical or adequate and using parts that
are fairly readily available and do not
occupy the entire available real estate.
As usual, there is a plethora of information available on the ‘net, where
everyone is an expert, with arguments
for and against various approaches
which really only adds to the confusion. What do you think?
Trevor Queale,
Toowong, Qld.
Response: take a look at some of our
circuit designs which involve interfacing micros to external devices, especially those designed for automotive environments. The protection we
provide is sufficient for good reliability without involving too many components.
For example, see the Temperature
Switch Mk2 in the June 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11101).
Australia’s electronics magazine
Generally, all you need to protect a
micro pin is a series resistor of around
1kW. Higher values can be used as long
as the signal frequency is low (for digital signals) or the exact voltage level is
not critical (for analog signals).
The micro’s internal ESD clamp diodes prevent the input pin from being
pulled too far outside the micro’s supply range while the series resistor limits the clamp current to a safe level.
You will also see that in that design
that for the 12V supply input, we have
a 100µF bypass capacitor followed by
a 47W series resistor and a second capacitor (10µF) which has a 16V zener
diode across it. This then feeds the input of the 5V regulator.
These components are sufficient to
prevent damage to the regulator from
brief spikes in excess of ±100V (eg,
load dumps) and allow the micro to
operate normally even with quite a
dirty 12V power supply.
Monitoring home electricity usage
Thanks to Andrew Gross and Al
Lockyer or their replies in the February 2018 issue (Mailbag, pages 8-11).
These were in response to my earlier
letter regarding monitoring home energy usage, which was published in
the August 2017 issue (page 4).
In fact, I had already chosen to use
a commercial solution called “engage” (https://engage.efergy.com/) although I would have much preferred
an open-source solution. The product
that I chose uses three clamp meters
to measure the mains current flowing
in each phase connected to the home
and infers the overall energy usage
from these readings.
Each clamp meter is connected to
a separate, battery-powered transmitter and a small receiver is attached to
my router. The data is uploaded to a
website that is maintained by the vendor, which I can then access remotely.
The vendor’s website has some rather fancy displays and importantly allows the user to download reports of
the captured data aggregated to either
the minute, hour or day. A separate
report is generated for each calendar
month. The data is downloaded as CSV
(comma-separated values) files and is
easily imported into a spreadsheet for
in-depth analysis.
I have been able to make some useful observations with the data captured
thus far although I have an ultimate
plan to capturing one year’s worth,
siliconchip.com.au
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One thing that I wasn’t aware of is that
my electric oven is the only device attached to the third phase; everything
else including the reverse-cycle air
conditioning is on phases one and two.
In comparing the recorded usage to
my energy retailer’s usage, I have noticed a variance of about 11% which
is greater than the vendor’s specified
error value. I have queried this with
the vendor but not received a satisfactory response.
The vendor’s website allows a user
to set the voltage for each phase. In my
case, the actual voltage on each of the
three phases is normally 250±2VAC.
The value for each phase is displayed
on the electricity meter in my meter
box and I have confirmed the values
with a multimeter.
To compensate for the variance between the metered and measured usage, I have had to adjust the voltage
setting on the website to 220VAC.
The vendor’s website also allows the
user to input a simple tariff to calculate the cost of energy used. However, this would be no good for energy
plans which have varying (time-ofday) tariffs.
Once I have a full year’s worth of
data, I will hopefully be able to make
a more informed decision with respect to possibly buying photovoltaic panels.
Walter Hill,
Mount Pleasant, WA.
Neutral and Earth should be connected
to the same bus bar
I read the letter in the June issue regarding the electrician who was electrocuted after the smoko break (“Proposal for reducing sparky electrocutions”, pages 4-5). I cannot understand
why there is an interconnection between the Neutral and Earth bars that
can be broken.
My home board has one bar and the
incoming Neutral and home ground
are attached to one end with two
screws, while the other home Neutral connections are made with single
screws on the same bar (see photo below). The bar is suitably and clearly
marked. What the bar to the left is for
I have no idea.
I also agree in general with Gary
Jackson’s letter on page 5, where he
complains that engineers need to get
electricians to do simple mains wiring jobs.
I agree that suitably trained technical types can do simple wiring jobs
such as moving a GPO with little difficulty. I hold a Diploma of Civil Engineering and part of the coursework related to hands-on mains voltage work,
in a laboratory situation.
That reminds me of one time I got
a bit of a fright. I was helping a friend
to move a GPO to the opposite side of
a wall in his shed. We plugged a light
into the socket and switched off the
breaker in the sub-board, to verify that
the circuit was well and truly off while
we did the work.
Using my volt meter, I then checked
across each pair of GPO sockets connections (A-N, A-E and N-E) to determine if the circuit breaker was in
the Active or Neutral line. It was correctly wired.
Still being cautious and with good
lighting available, I disconnected the
GPO and placed some insulation tape
on the Active wire. I am a chicken and
don’t like the idea of being zapped!
I then relocated the GPO bracket to
the other side of the column and also
relocated the wires.
The incoming Neutral and Earth connections are attached to the same bar.
8
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Just prior to reconnecting the GPO I
inadvertently touched the bare Neutral
wire with the back of my hand. It had
no effect on me but suddenly the shed
went dark. Luckily, I had a rechargeable torch on hand.
So apparently there was an RCD
somewhere. It certainly wasn’t in the
shed’s sub-board. All of the house
circuits were dead. A search for the
main board took place and an RCD
was found and reset. Also the clocks!
I have measured a few volts on Neutral wires relative to Earth before; apparently, in this case, the N-E potential
was high enough that sufficient current could flow from Neutral to Earth
through my body to trip the RCD; or
perhaps I somehow induced a current
spike that tripped the RCD.
Finally, I would like to say that I
liked the article on the Astor GP/PS
Hybrid Portable radio in the June issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11116).
Some years ago, Rodney Champness provided me with a 240VAC to
90V+1.5V DC power supply circuit, so
that I could bring my father’s Astor KP
radio back to some form of life; unfortunately, not as a portable.
Some time ago, I had a Grundig portable with a similar number of components to the Astor but in a case about
one-quarter of the volume. Unfortunately, I consigned it to the tip some
years ago.
Ray Smith,
Hoppers Crossing, Vic.
UPS project welcome
Thank you for another interesting
May issue of Silicon Chip. The articles on Drone Air Taxis and the gut
capsules were good general reading
but it was hard not to notice the UPS
project. The font size of “DIY UPS!”
on the front cover must be only one
less than the “SILICON CHIP” title.
I remember suggesting such a project
to you in my April letter last year and I
thought that it had been assigned to the
dustbin. But it seems that I wasn’t the
only one who suggested the project.
I am glad that you have proceeded
with the project because you have provided the answer to why most UPS designs have multiple relays. Having dismantled a very large number to retrieve
expensive and/or hard-to-get components, most of them have contained at
least three relays and normally four.
A couple of nasty el-cheapo ones had
only one change-over relay.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 9
It had not occurred to me that a single relay could be subject to voltages
over 340V peak, that is, except for
spikes etc. It will be interesting to see
how well the project is received. It
does have great potential.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park. Qld.
Response: Duraid came to us with the
idea of doing a lithium-ion based UPS,
based on his experience with using
commercial UPSes on a large scale in
cluster computing.
It may be possible to use one relay
if it had a sufficiently high voltage rating. But since a voltage of either polarity could be present on the incoming mains line while the inverter is
still providing power to the load, it’s
hard to imagine how a single standard
(250VAC) mains-rated relay could do
the job safely.
change left over to build 10 new Adelaide Hospitals (the most expensive
hospital ever built in the world).
Yet this “investment” (or should I
say “malvesment”) has hollowed out
the baseload generation of the nation,
causing wholesale electricity prices to
triple, and at times resulting in power
having to be cut to our nation’s aluminium smelters to avoid blackouts.
Yesterday at 6pm, when demand
peaked at just over 26,000MW, that
$50 billion spent on wind and solar was only providing 100MW (as
shown in the chart). That’s less than
0.4% of the total demand! It beggars
belief. How could our nation waste so
much money?
Rodney Champness,
Mooroopna, Vic.
Weep for Australia’s stupidity
I found Ian Batty’s article on the
Philips Compact Cassette (July 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11136) to
be comprehensive and reading it was
a jog down memory lane for me.
I remember my first sightings of the
little machine. My then boss at EMI
Homebush, Arthur Cooper, exclaimed
upon seeing it for this first time that it
was “fearfully and wonderfully made”
(Psalm 139:14).
In restoring many such machines
over the decades, I found a special jig
for setting the height of the U-shaped
guides (intended for digital recording) most helpful in preventing tangled tapes.
A critical factor for maintaining
HF response was to keep the azimuth
right; with the player’s use, this quickly drifted. It was normally adjusted using a sealed Phillips screw head via a
hole in the case.
During the 60s through to early 80s,
I believe factory-produced music tapes
were recorded at a high speed. Unfortunately, because this pushed the bias
frequency way up, AM radio transmitters in Homebush bay interfered with
this process. I’m not sure how they
solved it!
I remember that at EMI, we had an
oven and refrigerator for extreme temperature tests of equipment, as well
as machines for repeated mechanical tests.
Neville Snow,
Burwood, Sydney
Leo responds: The high-speed recording bias interference must have been
Over the past decade, subsidies and
hand-outs have resulted in the spending of around $50 billion of our nation’s limited and precious capital on
so-called “renewable” energy sources
– solar and wind power. Untold billions more have also been spent to
upgrade transmission lines to connect
these to the grid.
For that money, we could have instead built 10 new HELE coal-fired
power stations (which would have
lowered CO 2 emissions) and had
10
Silicon Chip
High-speed recording of compact
cassettes was tricky
Australia’s electronics magazine
a tricky problem to solve. Presumably, they could only cure it by doing
the duplicating process in a shielded
room. I remember that the EMI plant
had a very large shielded room which
was very effective.
An alternative to Visual Basic
I read with interest Keith Anderson’s letter in the July 2018 issue regarding programming languages. He
wrote (and you agreed) that Visual BASIC is clunky and difficult to use, yet
neither of you offered a suggestion for
an alternative, besides moving away
from BASIC altogether (which can be
a good choice).
But if one wished to learn to program for Windows using a version of
BASIC, I can recommend Liberty Basic by Carl Gundel. It is approximately
98% compatible with “ye-olde” GWBASIC, which many older readers
would remember from the early days
of the IBM-compatible computer.
But it also has Windows extensions
to configure, open, handle and close
various types of windows, and also
has commands to allow the BASIC
program to directly call Dynamic Link
Library (DLL) routines, including the
Windows Application Programming
Interface (API) DLLs.
Admittedly, there are some disadvantages. You need to pay if you wish
to create stand-alone applications (just
under US$60, which is approximately
AU$85) although you can still run programs in the Integrated Development
Environment (IDE) with the unregistered free version.
Also, the programs are not fully
compiled and must be run using an
external Run Time Environment (RTE)
program and its accompanying support files. This makes them slower to
run than a fully compiled program and
less convenient to distribute.
But the RTE is still very powerful
and if you aren’t asking it to perform
very CPU-heavy tasks, it is quite fast
enough for general usage. There is also
an active support forum to help newcomers and long-time programmers
alike. A trial version of Liberty Basic
which can only run programs inside
the IDE may be downloaded for free
from www.libertybasic.com
The downloadable version can be
upgraded with a registration code to
allow it to compile programs to be run
under the RTE.
Of course, C/C++ or assembly lansiliconchip.com.au
guage are better choices for mainstream programming but Liberty BASIC is still a good choice for a beginner
to programming.
It teaches many of the necessary
principles involved in any type of programming while using a syntax which
is easier for a beginner to understand
than either C or assembler.
Jonathan Waller,
Bairnsdale, Vic.
Question regarding 3G mobile data
On reading the article on the “Home
& Farm Water Tank Level Meter” project (February 2018; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/10963), which uses WiFi to
upload to the cloud, it brings up something which has been on my mind.
I have a Solar Analytics power
monitoring system which uploads
the household power usage and solar
panel generation measurements to the
cloud and then to my account. It does
this at five-second intervals, 24/7.
I have been told that the equipment
uses a 3G SIM card but it doesn’t make
a phone call. I do pay a small annual fee
for this feature; around $6 per month.
Would the explanation of how this
works be worth an article? Perhaps
you could include a description of the
Telstra Narrowband system.
David Bruce-Steer,
Artarmon, NSW.
Response: we aren’t sure that we could
justify an article on this as it is a wellestablished technology.
Voice calls on the GSM (2G) phone
system consisted of a series of compressed digital data packets. To reduce
overhead, since all the packets for a
given call are to the same destination,
it was designed as a “circuit switched”
network, ie, a “circuit” is established,
all the packets travel over that circuit,
siliconchip.com.au
then at the end of the call, the “circuit”
is terminated.
The GPRS system was developed as
a way to expand the GSM phone system for data traffic. This resulted in
a “2.5G” system which was a hybrid
circuit-switched/packet-switched network. Data packets could then be individually routed to their destination.
This scheme was kept for the 3G network, although it was designed with
data transmission in mind from the
start, meaning higher data rates and
less overhead.
Your power monitoring system will
simply be generating one data packet
every five seconds. The data transmitted will easily fit into a single packet
(normally 128 bytes).
Consider that a voice call involves
transmitting and receiving roughly 60
kilobytes of data per minute, which
normally only costs you a few cents;
you can see how the cost of transmitting one small packet every five seconds will not be excessive.
In contrast to 2.5G and 3G, the 4G
network is a pure packet-switched system and thus ideally suited to data
traffic, although of course voice calls
are still supported.
Praise for 6-element Yagi TV antenna
I’ve recently completed the 6-element Yagi TV antenna (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10965) – exactly as
per your design in the February 2018
issue (using 316 stainless steel bolts,
nuts, and washers all around). I want
to say that it works brilliantly!
Presently, we have a digital antenna
feeding a booster and then the signal
is split out to two TV sets – one via
a fairly long run of coax. While the
TV on the longer run has good signal
strength, we sometimes get interfer-
Australia’s electronics magazine
ence that causes the sound to “chirp”
and the picture to break up.
With your Yagi connected and simply poked out of a window with the
boom held by hand (not optimum!),
about three metres below the intended mast position, I monitored the signal strength and error rate on the TV’s
setup page.
The signal was just as strong with
this antenna, if not better than the
boosted and split version. Absolutely
no errors, even when I pointed it well
away from the best signal direction.
I think this project should be considered a winner!
Ian Thompson,
Duncraig, WA.
Calibrating Touchscreen Altimeter
without QNH information
I recently built the Touchscreen
Altimeter & Weather Station by Jim
Rowe (December 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10898). After referring
to changes in the updated online version of the article, I was able to get it
working as described.
But I am having difficulty obtaining
an acceptable altitude reading. Apart
from the altitude variation, most readings from the unit compare well with
other devices I have around, including
an Arduino with a BMP280.
The local airport QNH is about 130m
below where I live so that data is not a
great help to me and I don’t really have
any easy way to get that information
anyway. While I am not particularly involved with flying, I do use indicative
altitude readings as part of my work.
My benchtop is located 141.5 metres above sea level (ASL), as calculated from maps and averaged GPS data.
Currently, the altitude readout I get
from the unit for “MSL Reference” is
August 2018 11
a fluctuating -10 to -12 metres with an
Air Pressure of 1014.7hPa (the weather
is currently quite changeable here today, 7.3°C out and drizzle, while it is
19.9°C in the workshop).
I have studied the calculations as set
out in the article and the software and
the included notes and I understand
the relationship between barometric
pressure above and below the ISA of
1013.25hPa. I have also searched online aviation sites and fully comprehend QNH and QFE.
Some of the online calculators work
reasonably well and this one is quite
close for QNH/QFE calculations:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aakd
Using data calculated, this now indicates my bench-top altitude at between 141 and 142 metres. I thought
that this may be useful information
for other Silicon Chip readers who are
not using the altimeter in an aircraft
but you do need to know your location altitude to make it work (Google
Earth can help).
I note that the original instructions
for this project refer to a setting for
“Ground Reference” rather than “Input QNH Reference”, with the change
to the software having been made after the article was published but before the software was supplied. Is the
original non-QNH capable software
still available? It may suit my proposed
application quite well.
Warwick Guild,
Dunedin, NZ.
Response: we have located the BASIC
source code for the original version of
the software and it is now available for
download alongside the later (QNHenabled) firmware.
No standard colour coding for
two-wire connectors
I recently purchased an Elecrow
Mini Solar LiPo Charger module
from the Silicon Chip Online Shop. I
am using it to build the Touchscreen
Altimeter and Weather Station project
(December 2017; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10898).
Shortly after powering it up, I noticed that all three of the two-wire
leads supplied have the colour coding
reversed when plugged into the board
connectors, ie, the red wire goes to the
negative terminal and the black wire
goes to the positive terminal.
Despite having the connections reversed, there does not appear to be any
damage to the module; with the bat12
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
tery connected the output is a steady
5V and the same in USB charge mode,
with the LEDs lit when appropriate.
It is easy enough to fix, and change
the wires around in the plugs, but I
thought it would be best to let you
know in case a similar problem with
other modules you may have in stock.
Warwick Guild,
Dunedin, NZ.
Response: we have a warning about
this in the article (at the bottom of page
30) and also on our website, where we
sell the Charger module.
The problem is that there is no
standard for two-wire JST cables as to
which wire is red and which is black.
Some of the leads that we purchase
have pin 1 red and pin 2 black while
others have pin 1 black and pin 2 red.
And we don’t know when we order
them which combination we will get.
As a result, some of the cables we
supply with modules have the correct
colour coding (red to +) and some are
reversed. You need to check the labels
on the module itself and see which
wires go to which pins before soldering them.
Comments on kits
I read with interest Dr Horst Poehlmann’s comments about kits in
the Mailbag section of the June issue
(page 10, “On Kits, Hearing Aids, etc”).
When Jaycar opened a store in Albury,
NSW, I stopped shopping at DSE for
the same seasons Dr Poehlmann mentioned – ie, their shift away from selling kits and components.
One day, many years later, I was
told by the manager, that they (Jaycar)
were planning to go the same way as
DSE went. Meaning: fewer kits/parts
and more electronic toys. Luckily, that
did not happen!
On the topic of kits, I bought the
Super-7 AM Radio receiver PCB from
the Silicon Chip Online Shop. I was
able to get all the parts from Jaycar,
bar one – the power switch. This is
available from Altronics but there is
no Altronics store near me and their
mail order minimum is $20. The
switch I need is just $1.95.
There is an Altronics stockist in
Wodonga (Vic) some 120km away but
they too will only process an order for
a minimum of $20 worth of parts and
I’m told that it could take weeks. It’s
very frustrating!
Another problem I had with putting together the Super-7 Radio was
siliconchip.com.au
the resistors. Apart from the annoying colour-coding, if you think you’d
made a mistake (after triple-checking
the value), it is impossible to measure
the value with your DMM once it is
soldered in place. Is it because it has
a capacitor in series or parallel?
Also, the resistor value printed on
the PCB is blocked by the body of that
resistor. Am I the only one on the planet with this problem?
Regarding Dr Poehlmann’s suggestion for a project for a sound-processor
for the hearing impaired, I would say
“bring it on”! I myself suffer from industrial deafness. My TV has all the
bass removed and treble turned up to
maximum but sadly I still can’t hear
it properly.
I use in-ear infrared headphones
with all the bass cancelled out and that
seems to work. If such a project goes
ahead, please don’t use SMDs or microcontrollers. I’m 82, after all.
Dick Polderman,
Culcairn, NSW.
Response: Gary Johnston (the owner
of Jaycar) is well aware of the disaster that befell DSE after Dick Smith
sold it and is unlikely to repeat those
mistakes. He has mentioned in the
past that he understands the importance of hobbyists and enthusiasts to
his business.
We try to minimise the number of
different places you need to shop to
put the parts together for our designs
but unfortunately, it’s rare for even a
very well stocked electronics shop to
have absolutely everything you need.
Jaycar does sell PCB-mount toggle
switches but they are bulkier than we
wanted for the Super-7 AM Radio.
Altronics have a good range of components so we suggest you peruse their
catalog and find another $18.05 worth
of parts or other gear that you may
need in the near future.
If you could do it all over again,
you could order $20 worth of the Super-7 parts from Altronics. For example, they have a decent range of
100mm speakers and you could also
get some of the capacitors or resistors
from them. Then you could pick up the
balance from your local Jaycar shop.
You aren’t the only person who has
problems with resistors. That is why
we usually suggest that you check
the value of each one with a DMM
before soldering it. You can measure
some component values in-circuit.
Series capacitors will not affect readsiliconchip.com.au
ings and parallel capacitors will normally not prevent you from getting a
correct resistance reading if you wait
long enough for the capacitor to finish charging.
But where you have a resistor in
parallel with a diode, transistor, IC
junction or another resistor, that can
prevent you from reading an accurate
measurement. So it’s best to be sure
you have selected the right value before soldering, especially on a doublesided board, where it’s more difficult
to de-solder components (due to the
hole plating).
Placing the resistor value label under the resistor body is a compromise;
it removes any ambiguity as to which
resistor it refers to and it saves space
on the PCB (there often isn’t room to
place the labels otherwise) but it does
make it harder to check the values
later. We always publish PCB overlay
diagrams when relevant in the magazine and you can refer to that instead.
Suggestion for complete
weather station project
I noticed the WiFi Water Tank Level
Meter project with some weather reporting facilities included and I was
thinking about it.
I was wondering whether it would
be possible to design a complete
weather station along the same lines.
It would measure temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, wind speed,
wind direction and have WiFi so that
the readings could be accessed from
anywhere via the internet.
The article could also include instructions for making the enclosure
to comply with the requirements for
accurate readings.
I’d be interested in building such a
project, particularly if there was a kit
available from one of the kit suppliers.
Bruce Pierson,
Dundathu, Qld.
Response: it’s an interesting idea but
we think it would be quite a bit of
work to build a weather station from
scratch. It would need to include rainfall measurements too, with the wind
vane, anemometer and tipping bucket
plus enclosure to build.
You may want to look on eBay as
you can get a WiFi-enabled weather
station for less than $200 (including
delivery); building one yourself probably wouldn’t cost much less than
that, once you consider all the parts
that would be required.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
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August 2018 13
How to monitor your brain waves
An Introduction to
Electroencephalography
(EEG)
By Jim Rowe
Elsewhere in this issue, we describe a low-cost Brainwave Monitor
which you can build to measure and record brainwaves – yours,
or those of someone else. But to use that device, you need to understand
what an EEG is, how to use it and how to interpret the results.
This article explains what an EEG is all about.
E
lectroencephalography or on the exposed brains of the animals.
“EEG” involves monitoring the Beck is generally credited with proposelectro-neurological activity of ing the concept of brain waves.
German physiologist and psychiathe brain, using electrodes placed in
trist Hans Berger was the first to record
strategic positions on the scalp.
This is not to be confused with the human EEG signals in 1924 and also
ECG, or electrocardiograph, which the first to coin the term “electroencephalogram” to describe the function
monitors the tiny electrical signals
of the machine he developed.
which control the heart.
His recordings were made using
But an absence of either EEG or ECG
electrodes placed on the subject’s
signals means you’re just as dead!
The first person known to try look- scalp, rather than on the surface of
ing for electrical activity in brains their exposed brain – a far less invasive
was British physician Richard Ca- scheme, making it much more suitable
ton, who did experiments on the ex- for use on human subjects!
Since Berger’s pioneering work
posed brains of rabbits and monkeys
in 1875. He published his results in there has been a lot of development
the British Medical Journal in August, of EEG measurement technology and
1875 (siliconchip.com.au/link/
aakh).
Then in 1890 Adolf Beck, a
Polish physiologist, published
the results of tests measuring
electrical activity in the brains
of rabbits and dogs – including rhythmic activity altered
by light striking the animals’ Fig.1: tiny signals within the
eyes. As with Caton’s work, this brain are passed from axon to dendrite.
was done by placing electrodes These are detected and read as an EEG.
14
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
the application of EEG recordings for
diagnosing various neurological and
mental health problems. Nowadays,
it is used for such diverse things as
distinguishing between epileptic and
other types of seizures and in the analysis of sleep disorders.
The American EEG Society was
founded in 1947 and the first International EEG congress was held in the
same year.
There are now EEG Societies in a
number of countries, as well as internationally recognised techniques
regarding the placement of EEG electrodes (described below).
How an EEG works
Our brains are made up from
billions of nerve cells or “neurons”, which constantly communicate with one another by
transferring ions between them
via the tiny gaps or “synapses”
separating them.
At one end of the synapse
gap is a tentacle-like axon (a
protrusion of the neuron cell)
while the receiving site on the
siliconchip.com.au
other side of the synapse is known as
a dendrite.
Since the ions are electrically
charged, this means that there are
small electric currents flowing all the
time – especially in the outer layers of
the cerebral cortex, which is the outer
‘grey matter’ part of the cerebrum (the
large upper part of the brain).
Although these currents are quite
small, a proportion of them passes
through the meningeal envelope surrounding the brain and out through
the bones of the skull cap and the skin
of the scalp.
As a result, minute voltages corresponding to these currents can be detected using electrodes attached to the
scalp, as shown in Fig.2.
Because these voltages are so tiny, a
great deal of amplification is needed to
sample and record them. This means
that it’s essential to use various techniques to cancel out “common mode”
signals, such as voltages induced by
nearby 50/60Hz mains wiring, which
would otherwise drown out the EEG
signals.
The frequencies of the EEG signals
are quite low, varying between about
0.5Hz and 16Hz. This means that lowpass filtering can also be used to reject
50 or 60Hz hum.
So the basic idea of EEG is to monitor brain activity by using an array of
small electrodes placed on the subject’s scalp, to sense the leakage voltages present on the surface.
Electrode placement
You cannot just stick the electrodes
Fig.2: electrodes placed on the scalp are used to detect tiny voltages caused by
currents flowing between neurons in the outer layers of the brain’s cerebral
cortex. A small fraction of these currents passes out through the meninges, the
skull cap and the scalp.
anywhere on the scalp. You must follow the standardised placement of
EEG electrodes on a patient’s scalp,
to allow comparisons and diagnoses
to be made.
The most common EEG electrode
placement standard used nowadays is
called the International 10-20 System,
which is as follows.
Fig.3 shows two views of a stylised
human head, from the side and from
above. Three main reference points
are shown: the “nasion”, the “inion”
and the “vertex”.
The nasion is the depression directly between the eyes, just above the
bridge of the nose. It’s the intersection
of the frontal bone and two nasal bones
and is regarded for EEG purposes as
the landmark for the front-centre of
the skull.
The inion is the location of a small
bump or protuberance on the outer
surface of the occipital bone of the
skull, which can be felt through the
scalp. This point is regarded for EEG
purposes as the rear centre point of
the skull.
The vertex or top centre of the skull
is basically the point halfway along the
centre line of the skull, equally distant
from the nasion and the inion.
This vertex is used to locate the reference ground (Cz electrode) for EEG
Fig.3: EEG electrodes should be placed on the scalp in positions defined by the International 10-20 System, and
illustrated here.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 15
Fig.4: the combinations of EEG electrode positions which
are most useful for sensing slow waves, ‘spindles’ and
Alpha rhythms. Note that the Cz ‘reference ground’
electrode should always be placed at the skull’s vertex.
measurements. This is used as the basis of the 10-20 EEG
electrode placement grid.
The distance between the vertex and the nasion is divided into three parts, with intervals of 20%, 20% and 10%
as shown, and in the same proportions for the distance between the vertex and the inion.
Similarly, the distance between the vertex and the line
on each side of the head between the nasion and inion is
also divided into three parts with intervals of 20%, 20%
and 10% as shown in Fig.3.
These points are then used to visualise a grid, as indicated by the dashed red lines on each view. The intersections of these grid lines are used for most of the EEG electrode positions.
These are labelled using a convention where electrodes
on the longitudinal centre line have the suffix “z” (as in
Fz, Cz and Pz), while those on the left-hand side of the
skull are given odd numbers (like F3, C3, P3, F7, T3 and
T5) and those on the right-hand side are given even numbers (like F4, C4, P4 and so on). The letter prefixes given
to these electrode positions correspond to the names of the
brain lobes underneath their positions.
So the electrodes above the frontal lobes are given the
prefix “F”, those above the temporal lobes have the prefix “T”, those above the parietal lobes have the prefix “P”
and those above the occipital lobes have the prefix “O”.
In addition to the 19 electrode positions defined by the
10-20 grid, there are four extras; two near each ear.
As shown in Fig.3, these are M1 and M2, located at the
left and right mastoid protuberances (the small bumps just
behind and above each external ear), and A1 and A2, located either on the lobe of each external ear or on the tragus, the small pointed skin protuberance just above and
behind the lobe.
In practice, the M1 and A1 electrode positions are regarded as interchangeable, as are the M2 and A2 positions.
This is because they are both very near the midpoint of the
lowest grid line between the nasion and inion on each side,
ie, two near each ear.
Note that for higher-resolution EEG measurements and
research, many additional electrode positions are used.
Generally, these are located halfway between the grid
lines shown in Fig.3. The additional electrode locations
are labelled according to the Modified Combinatorial Nomenclature (MCN). But this more complex electrode array
system needn’t worry us here.
Which combinations are useful?
With so many electrode locations to choose from even
in the 10-20 system, selecting the combinations which are
likely to be the most useful can be a bit bewildering. Fortunately, people who have recorded a lot of EEGs over the
years have come up with a short list of electrode combinations that have been found most useful. These are listed in
Fig.4 – Suggested Electrode Combinations.
The combination of F4 and M1 (or A1) is suggested as
best for capturing slow EEG waves, with the F3 and M2/
A2 combination as an alternative.
Similarly, the combination of C4 and M1 is suggested as
best for capturing rapid “spindle” EEG waves, with the C3
and M2 combination as an alternative.
Then for capturing the brain’s relaxed “alpha rhythm”,
the combination of either O2 and M1 or O1 and M2 is suggested.
With all of these combinations, the EEG sampler’s ground
reference lead is assumed to be connected to the Cz electrode at the vertex or top of the skull. This is necessary to
achieve the clearest and least noisy recordings.
So you don’t need a huge number of electrodes and leads
to capture the most useful EEG recordings. In fact, with
only seven electrodes (including the Cz electrode), you can
perform three different EEG recordings simultaneously, using an EEG Sampler with three differential input channels.
Stimulating neurons electrically
While this article is about sensing the electrical impulses generated by neurons, it is also possible to do the reverse, ie, use externally-generated electrical impulses to
stimulate neurons.
We described a circuit to do just this in the project about
Cranial Electrical Stimulation (CES) in the January 2011
issue (siliconchip.com.au/Article/871).
This is intended to reduce the pain from headaches and
to promote relaxation.
In addition to the synapses described earlier, for communication between neurons, synapses also exist between
motor neurons and muscle fibres.
The electrical impulse across the synapse causes the
muscle fibre to contract and this is how the brain controls
movement in the body. The injection of an electrical im16
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pulse along this path can cause the muscle to contract
involuntarily.
Similarly, sensations such as heat, cold and pain cause
electrical impulses which travel to neurons in the brain via
synapses.
We have previously published two circuits for transient
electrical nerve stimulation (TENS), which can be used for
pain relief. See the August 1997 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/4848) and January 2006 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/2532) issue for details.
A warning: as you will note in the TENS articles, their
output must NEVER be applied to the head, especially in
the areas where EEG electrodes would go. NEVER try
to connect a TENS machine to EEG electrodes (in most
cases, they won’t fit anyway!).
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
But why would YOU bother?
While it should be pretty obvious that an EEG in the hands of
a medical professional would be extremely valuable in all sorts
of clinical/diagnostic situations, the question must be asked,
“why would the average person bother reading their (or someone else’s) EEG?”
And “don’t you need many years of experience to decipher
EEG waveforms?”
In a professional application the answer to the latter question
is undoubtedly yes – it would be folly (and probably dangerous!)
for an untrained person to even attempt to analyse EEG waveforms with a view to diagnosing brain disorders.
However . . .
Fig.5: sample waveforms showing how EEG waves change
during the various stages of relaxation and sleep.
Our Brainwave Monitor is designed for this exact task.
It’s possible to switch each of the Monitor’s three input
channels between two alternative electrode pairs, using a
small electrode switch box to be described in a future issue.
Then by using only three additional electrodes and leads
(ten in all), you can capture EEGs from any of the electrode
combinations shown in Fig.4, merely by selecting them using the switch box.
What to look for
So what kind of EEG waveforms can you expect when
using the Brainwave Monitor?
We can’t explain everything you need to know to interpret EEG waveforms in this article – that’s a job for an expert. But the waveform samples shown in Fig.5 will give
you an idea of the sort of waveforms you are likely to see
at various stages of brain relaxation and sleep.
EEG waves are named according to their frequency range.
They are Delta waves if their frequency is between 0.1Hz
and 3.5Hz, Theta waves if their frequency is between 4Hz
and 7.5Hz, Alpha waves for frequencies between 8 and
13Hz and Beta waves in the range 14-40Hz.
Their peak amplitude is typically between 10µV and
100µV, with Alpha waves generally less than 60µV and
Beta waves usually in the range 10-20µV.
So an amplification factor of around 5,000 to 250,000
times is required for the EEG signals to be sampled by a
typical analog-to-digital converter (ADC).
As you would expect, the signal amplitudes are greater
if measured at the surface of the brain (1-2mV). Even this
is a small fraction of the voltage of a nerve impulse, which
is around 100mV.
In spite of the problems of amplifying and processing
such tiny signals in a very noisy electrical environment,
our Brainwave Monitor makes this a reasonably routine
procedure. You can connect it to your laptop or notebook
PC to view and record brainwave signals.
What a great idea for a school electronics project!
siliconchip.com.au
There are many references (on the net and elsewhere) extolling the virtues of a personal EEG in controlling and changing
your own brain activity. Possibly using external simulation, with
practice it appears you can “train” your brain to achieve some
positive outcomes.
Indeed, there are several commercial organisations which offer various EEG-compatible software to enable users to experiment in this area – the example below is from the US Transparent
Corporation (www.transparentcorp.com) who claim that EEG
units can be tools to improve the mind through a non-invasive
brain stimulation process. “Neural stimulation therapy, also
commonly referred to as brainwave entrainment, uses deliberately engineered sound or light stimuli to influence the mind in
beneficial ways”.
Other reports we’ve seen suggest EEG can be used for highly
stressed individuals to reduce those stress levels by recognising the types of EEG waveforms which not only reveal stress but
also the waveforms which show stress reductions.
We’ve also seen claims that EEG analysis can help those suffering sleep disorders.
There are also reports of students who use EEG to reduce
stress levels before important exams. And others which show
that a general sense of wellbeing can be achieved by knowing
what brainwaves show.
We’re not saying that these reports are all accurate (indeed,
any of them!) – the net is notorious for misinformation – but if
you’re interested in these, or many other “self-help” applications
of the EEG, we would strongly suggest you do extensive study
so that you know what you are doing. It might also be wise to
discuss any possible plan of action with a health care profesSC
sional who has expertise in this area.
Using Transparent Corp’s “Emotiv EPOC or Emotiv EEG
for EEG-Driven Stimulation”
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 17
by Jim Rowe
We’ve seen how the brain
produces tiny signals which can be detected
by an EEG monitor. Well, with this project you can do
just that: not only monitor and display your own brainwaves (or someone
else’s), on a computer screen but save and print them if you wish. It’s based on
an Arduino Nano and connects to the computer using a standard USB cable.
T
here are many reasons why
brainwave monitoring can be
useful. As we discussed, it can
help in assessing your own well-being but few people have the ability or
means to do it. They can only get information on their own brainwaves if
they are referred to a specialist clinic –
and the most common of these would
be for investigation of sleep apnea.
But you don’t have to be suffering
from this serious complaint to have a
reason to have your brainwaves monitored and investigated (see the previous article). With this inexpensive
project, you can do it yourself.
Brain waves are monitored using a
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number of electrodes placed on the
scalp. These are readily available and
not expensive. The electrodes are connected via shielded leads to the Brainwave Monitor unit, which then connects to a portable computer to display
the results.
The design for this Brainwave Monitor is partly based on the circuitry
of Electrocardiogram (ECG) project
in the October 2015 issue of SILICON
CHIP (www.siliconchip.com.au/Article/9135).
That project only needed a single
channel and two electrodes to monitor electrical activity in a human heart.
This Brainwave monitor has three
Australia’s electronics magazine
channels to monitor multiple electrodes. The very minute (as in tiny,
not time!) signals are fed to very high
gain amplifiers which are filtered and
fed to a low-cost Arduino Nano microcomputer module to convert the signal readings to digital values and then
sent to a PC for display and analysis.
In a little more detail, since the
voltages picked up by the brain electrodes are so small, the main board
has three high-gain differential input
amplifiers, each of which includes a
three-pole low-pass filter to reduce the
devices’ susceptibility to 50Hz hum
radiated by mains power cables and
other equipment.
siliconchip.com.au
The Brainwave Monitor is powered from the PC via the USB cable,
so there’s no need for a separate power supply. The total current drawn is
less than 45mA (at 5V).
All of the Brain Wave Monitor’s
functions are controlled using a Windows-based GUI application written
in Visual C++.
How it works
The Arduino Nano microcomputer
module provides both a multi-channel
analog-to-digital converter (ADC) and
a USB interface.
The software loaded onto this module uses these features to continually
sample the analog voltages from the
front-end and sends the digitised values to your PC via the USB interface.
Fig.1 shows the block diagram
which depicts the three highgain differential amplifiers with
low-pass filters which process the
EEG signals to prepare them for
sampling.
Capturing EEG waveforms is
challenging because the voltages
found on the surface of the scalp
are tiny: between 10µV and 100µV
peak-to-peak, depending on the positions of the electrodes on the scalp
and the contact resistance.
Hence the need for amplifiers with
very high gain.
To make the job harder, these voltages are completely swamped by 50Hz
hum (60Hz in the USA and some other
parts of the world), picked up by our
bodies from the fields surrounding the
AC wiring in our homes and offices
Luckily, while we are interested
in the voltage differences between
each pair of electrodes, the 50Hz
hum picked up is virtually the same
throughout the body. In other words,
the 50Hz hum is a common mode signal while the EEG voltages are differential mode signals.
So by using an accurately balanced
differential amplifier as the input stage
of each EEG amplifier channel, we can
cancel out most of the common-mode
50Hz hum while amplifying the differential EEG voltages.
The connections between the electrodes and the subject’s scalp need to
be good because if one connection is
poor, this can upset the balance of that
input amplifier and reduce the common-mode cancellation.
Another method to reduce the hum
pickup is to connect a ground elecsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: A simplified block diagram of our Brainwave Monitor, showing the
three input amplifiers processing the tiny EEG signals and boosting them to
feed the ADC inputs of the Arduino Nano.
trode to the top centre of the subject’s
scalp, in the “Cz” position (see previous article – page 14).
Most of the remaining 50Hz signals
are removed by low-pass filtering in
the later stages of each amplifier. As
a result, the output of the amplifiers
provide clean amplified EEG signals,
with insignificant residual 50Hz (or
60Hz) hum.
Circuit description
The full circuit of the Brainwave
Monitor is shown in Fig.2. The shielded electrode leads are wired up to
CON1, a DB9F connector. The six differential signals for the three channels
are then fed through 1µF capacitors
and series 4.7kΩ resistors to the inputs
of IC1, IC3 and IC5.
These are Analog Devices
AD623ARZ chips, which are instrumentation amplifiers with very high
common-mode signal rejection and
high gain.
The overall differential-mode gain
of each AD623ARZ device is set by a
resistor connected between pins 1 and
8. A value of 100Ω gives a gain of 1000
times (60dB).
To ensure that IC1, IC3 and IC5 can
deliver maximum undistorted output
level and so that the analog signals fed
to the Arduino span its entire 0-5V
ADC range, we feed 2.5V DC (ie, half
the 5V supply voltage) to each ampli-
fier’s reference signal input (pin 5)
from a low impedance source. This
sets the DC level of the amplifier output signals to 2.5V.
The half-supply reference is provided by voltage reference REF1 (an
LMV431BIMF), which sets the zerosignal output level of IC1, IC3 and IC5.
The two 2.2MΩ input bias resistors for
each input amplifier are returned to the
same +2.5V point, providing identical
biasing for the amplifier inputs.
As the input amplifiers are being operated with such a high gain, we also
need to prevent them from amplifying any stray RF signals which may
be picked up by the electrode leads (or
the subject’s head and scalp).
These signals are filtered out by the
1nF bypass capacitors between each
amplifier input and ground, and also
the 47nF capacitors between each pair
of inputs.
These capacitors form a balanced
low-pass filter, in conjunction with the
two 4.7kΩ input series resistors, with
a -3dB point of 350Hz. Thus, the filters will be very effective at attenuating RF signals at hundreds of kilohertz
and above, while having no effect on
the low-frequency EEG signals.
The rest of the Brainwave Monitor’s
amplifier and filter circuitry is based
around IC2, IC4 and IC6, all of which
are LMC6482 CMOS-input dual lowpower op amps. These have rail-to-rail
This project has not been designed for medical diagnosis.
Correct interpretation of EEG waveforms is a complex and skilled procedure and
requires proper medical training. The Brainwave Monitor is presented here as an
instructive and educational device only. If you have any concerns about the health of
your brain, consult a health care professional with specialist knowledge in this area.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 19
Fig.2: the circuit is essentially two halves: on this page are the three identical
high gain differential amplifiers which take their tiny inputs from the electrodes . . .
capable inputs and outputs.
The following text describes the operation of the first channel; the other
two are identical.
The output from IC1 is fed to the input of IC2a via a simple RC low-pass
filter formed by a series 3.9kΩ resistor
and the 1µF capacitor, which gives a
corner frequency of about 40Hz and
an attenuation of about -4dB at 50Hz.
IC2a provides an additional fixed
amplification of either 20 times or 10
times, depending on whether LK1 is
present or not.
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When LK1 is inserted, it shorts out
the 220Ω resistor in the feedback path,
altering the feedback ratio and thus
increasing the stage gain to 20 times.
Either way, a parallel combination of
two 220µF ceramic capacitors between
the bottom of the feedback divider and
ground ensure a good low-frequency
response while eliminating any DC offset at the op amp output, which could
otherwise lead to premature or asymmetric signal clipping.
IC2b provides additional low-pass
filtering, to further reduce the 50Hz
Australia’s electronics magazine
hum level. It forms a second-order
Sallen-Key low-pass filter with a corner frequency of about 30Hz, giving
an attenuation figure of about 15dB at
50Hz but with unity gain for the lowfrequency EEG signals.
So at the output of IC2b (pin 7), we
end up with relatively clean and humfree EEG signals, amplified by either
10,000 or 20,000 times, depending on
the setting of LK1.
This signal, along with the identically processed signals from the other
two channels, are then fed to the A0,
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Brainwave Monitor
1 PCB, code 25108181, 109.5 x 83.5mm
1 Diecast aluminium box, 119 x 93.5 x 34mm
1 Arduino Nano or equivalent module
1 USB cable, type A to mini-B
1 DB9F/DE9 socket, right-angle PCB-mounting (CON1)
[Jaycar PS0806, Altronics P3030]
1 100µH 1.6A SMD inductor (L1)
[Murata 48101SC; element14 Cat 2112367]
3 2-way SIL pin headers with jumper shunts (LK1-LK3)
7 PCB terminal pins (optional)
4 M3 x 10mm metal tapped spacers
8 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
4 small adhesive rubber/plastic mounting feet
Electrode components
7 EEG electrodes (see previous article)
7 26mm insulated alligator clips (three red, four black)
[4 x Jaycar HM3020]
1 DB9M plug with backshell cover
[Jaycar PP0800+PM0812, Altronics P3000+P3093]
1 3.6m length of figure-8 shielded stereo audio cable
1 1.2mm length of green light-duty stranded, insulated wire
1 150mm length of 4mm diameter heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
3 AD623ARZ instrumentation amplifiers, SOIC-8 (IC1, IC3, IC5)
3 LMC6482IMX dual op amps, SOIC-8 (IC2, IC4, IC6)
1 LMV431BIMF adj. precision shunt regulator, SOT-23 (REF1)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
1 3mm red LED (LED2)
Capacitors (all SMD ceramic except where noted)
6 220µF 6.3V X5R dielectric, 1210 size
6 100µF 6.3V X5R dielectric, 1206 size
1 10µF 25V X5R dielectric, 1210 size
3 2.2µF 25V X5R dielectric, 1206 size
6 1µF 100V MKT (leaded)
6 1µF 16V X7R dielectric, 1206 size
9 100nF 16V X7R dielectric, 1206 size
3 47nF 50V X7R dielectric, 1206 size
6 1nF 50V C0G dielectric, 1206 size
. . . while on this page is the Arduino Nano which
processes the signals from the amplifiers.
A1 and A2 analog input pins of the
Arduino Nano.
LED1, the power indicator, lights
when the 5V supply is present, while
LED2 lights when output pin D3 of
the Arduino Nano goes high, which
indicates that sampling is taking place.
Each IC has a 100nF bypass capacitor to ensure it has a stable supply
while the supply to each instrumentation amplifier is independently filtered
using an RC low-pass filter comprising
an 82Ω series resistor and 100µF ceramic capacitor to ground, to minimise
siliconchip.com.au
Resistors (all 0.125W 1% 1206 size SMD)
6 2.2MΩ
2 20kΩ
1 11kΩ
1 10kΩ
9 10kΩ
6 3.9kΩ
3 3.6kΩ
1 2.7kΩ
3 2.0kΩ
1 1.6kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
2 470Ω
3 220Ω
3 200Ω
3 100Ω
3 82Ω
6 4.70kΩ 0.1%
cross-talk between amplifiers.
These also prevent noise being coupled into the sensitive front-end amplifiers from the 5V USB supply.
The 5V USB supply for the whole
circuit is also filtered by an LC lowpass filter comprising a large, high-frequency 100µH series choke (L1) and
three paralleled 100µF ceramic capacitors to ground.
This LC filter is in series with the
individual RC filters to each instrumentation amplifier, so they combine
to provide excellent noise rejection.
Australia’s electronics magazine
1 11kΩ
3 2.2kΩ
1 330Ω
Construction
All of the Brainwave Monitor circuitry, including the Arduino Nano, is
mounted on a PCB measuring 109.5 x
83.5mm and coded 25108181.
Use the PCB overlay diagram shown
in Fig.3 as a guide for fitting the components to the board. Many of the
components on the PCB are SMDs
(surface-mount devices) but there are
some through-hole parts too.
Fortunately, the SMDs are quite
straightforward to solder as they have
fairly large and widely spaced pins.
August 2018 21
The Arduino Nano
As explained in the circuit description, the Arduino Nano is the
heart (or should that be brain?) of the Brainwave Monitor. It is effectively a miniaturised version of the familiar (and original) Arduino Uno. It’s about a quarter of the size, with a PCB measuring
43 x 17.5mm. Most connections to the board made via two 15-pin
SIL headers, fitted 15mm apart.
Like the Uno, this module is based on an Atmel ATmega328P
microcontroller but in this case, in a 32-pin SMD package. Instead
of using a second ATmega16U2 microcontroller to handle USB
communication with the PC, the Nano uses either an FT232RL or a
CH340G USB transceiver chip. There isn’t much else on the board,
apart from an AMS1117 5V low-dropout regulator, 16MHz resonator and a tiny reset pushbutton.
Power comes from the PC via the USB mini type-B connector.
Like the Uno and other Arduinos, the Nano also has a 6-pin DIL
pin header for in-circuit serial programming (ICSP) of the microFit the SMD resistors first, followed
by the SMD capacitors and then the six
ICs. The main thing to watch with the
ICs is to orientate them correctly, as
shown on the overlay diagram.
For all these components, it’s easiest to tack-solder one pin first, doublecheck the component orientation and/
or value, then solder the other pin(s)
and refresh the first solder joint.
If you accidentally bridge adjacent
IC pins with solder, simply remove the
excess using a small dob of flux paste
and the application of some braided
solder wick.
Using the same technique, you can
now mount REF1 (in a small SOT-23
package) and the largest SMD component, L1. Then all of the leaded/
through-hole parts can be added, starting with the three 2-pin headers for
LK1-LK3, then the six 1µF input coupling capacitors.
Next fit CON1, making sure that all
of its nine pins pass down through
their mounting holes along with the
two mounting lugs. Make sure that
the connector’s body is resting on the
top of the PCB before you solder all
the pins under the PCB.
Now install the LEDs with their
leads straight, with the underside of
each lens 12mm above the top of the
PCB. Make sure they are orientated
correctly, ie, with the longer (anode)
lead soldered to the pad marked “A”
on the PCB. Then bend the leads forward by 90°, 7mm above the top of
the PCB.
Then, if you want them, add the seven optional PCB terminal pins, (used
for test points).
If you’ve purchased a clone instead
of a genuine Nano, it may be supplied
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controller. But normally you do not need to use this as you can
program it using the USB port.
Inside the 328P chip is a reasonably fast 8-bit RISC processor
with 32 registers, 32Kbytes of flash memory, 1Kbyte of EEPROM
and 2Kbytes of static RAM. There are also two 8-bit timer/counters,
one 16-bit timer/counter, a real-time clock and calendar with its own
oscillator, six PWM channels, a 10-bit ADC with eight input channels,
a programmable serial USART, a master/slave SPI serial interface,
an I2C 2-wire serial interface and an on-chip analog comparator.
When the Brainwave Monitor is working, the sequence of events
is quite straightforward. Each time the software wants a set of EEG
samples taken, it sends a command to the Arduino, which then
uses its internal ADC to take 10-bit samples of the amplified EEG
signals at its A0, A1 and A2 inputs. The sample values are then
sent back to the PC, in an overall sampling cycle that takes less
than 15 milliseconds.
with separate headers.
In this case, you will first need to
solder the headers to the Nano board,
ensuring that the solder joints are
made on the top side of the module,
with the plastic strips and long pins
underneath (see photos).
Now mount the Arduino Nano on
the PCB, with its USB mini-B connector facing towards the top and its two
15-pin headers passing down through
the matching holes in the PCB. Make
sure the plastic strips which hold each
row of pins together are resting on the
top of the main PCB before you solder
the pins underneath.
That concludes the assembly work
on the Brainwave Monitor PCB.
Installing the software
Before mounting the PCB in its case,
you should verify that it’s working
properly. First, you will need to establish communications between the
Arduino Nano module and your PC.
Then you will need to load the Arduino firmware and PC software. You
can then verify it’s all working before
going any further.
Fig.6 gives an overview of how the
Brainwave Monitor works with the
software installed on your computer.
If you don’t already have the Arduino IDE (integrated development environment) installed on your computer,
download and install it now.
The download is free and it’s avail-
Fig.3: use this same-size PCB component overlay, and the matching photo
opposite, when assembling the PCB.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
able for Windows, macOS and Linux
systems (but note that the main software program written for this project
is for Windows only).
You can download the Arduino
IDE from https://www.arduino.cc/en/
Main/Software The latest version at
the time of writing is 1.8.5 so we suggest you use this or a later version if
possible, to ensure compatibility.
Having installed the IDE, plug the
Nano board into one of your computer’s USB ports (LED1 on the PCB
should light up) and then start the
IDE. Open the Tools → Ports menu
and check the list to see if the Arduino
Nano is present. If so, select it.
If it is not, that suggests that your
computer may not have the appropriate USB/serial driver. Most systems
will have this driver pre-installed but
in some cases, it may not.
In that case, refer to the two following links for instructions on installing
the FT232RL or CH341 driver, depending on which chip your Nano has been
supplied with:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aakf or
siliconchip.com.au/link/aakg
Once the driver is installed, re-plug
the Nano, re-launch the IDE and check
that the device is now showing up in
the Ports list. Select it, and ensure that
the Nano is also selected in the Tools
→ Boards menu.
You will now need the Arduino
sketch, which you can download in a
package from the SILICON CHIP website
SAFETY WARNING
To ensure complete safety, this Brainwave Monitor must only be used with a batterypowered laptop or notebook PC, ie, one that is NOT connected to the mains in any way.
Do NOT use it with a desktop or laptop PC that is powered from 230VAC.
This precaution is necessary to eliminate the remote possibility that a fault in the
power supply of a mains-powered PC could result in a high AC voltage being applied
to the EEG electrodes attached to the scalp, which could have fatal consequences.
(free for subscribers). The sketch file is
called “sketch_for_EEG_Sampler.ino”
and when the download is complete,
unzip the files and open this sketch
file using the Arduino IDE.
If you have set the Port and Board
correctly as per the above instructions,
you will just need to use the Tools →
Upload menu option and the sketch
should be compiled and uploaded
onto the Arduino Nano. Your Brainwave Monitor is then ready to go. You
just need the matching Windows software loaded on your PC.
Testing
Now close the Arduino IDE. You
will need to install the Windows program on your PC to test out the Brainwave Monitor.
It’s also available as a download
from the SILICON CHIP website and is
called “SiliconChipEEGSamplerSetup.exe”. Run this setup program and
follow the prompts to install it on your
system. When that’s complete, launch
the software.
Select the correct COM port (the
same one that was used to upload the
While there are quite a few SMD components to fit, they’re all wide-spaced-pin
types so they shouldn’t cause you any grief when soldering!
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
sketch earlier) and set the baud rate
to 115,200. Start sampling and check
that the software is able to connect to
the Brainwave monitor and displays
some traces. Of course, at this point the
traces will probably just show noise.
But at least you will have a pretty good
indication that everything is working.
You can run your fingers along the
9-pin connector pins to check that
each channel is being correctly sampled; this should induce some voltage
on the inputs and cause a signal to appear, although it’s likely to overload
the channels, resulting in something
that looks like a square wave.
Final assembly
The complete PCB assembly fits
inside a standard diecast aluminium
box measuring 119 x 93 x 34mm. The
PCB assembly mounted on the inside
of the box lid with the box itself lowered down over the assembly to form
a shielding enclosure; the lid then becomes the base.
Note that some of the diecast boxes
we purchased recently had somehow
missed out on the tapping of their
mounting holes and we had to tap
them by hand. So it would be a good
idea to check the holes in your box before you begin final assembly.
The DB9F connector (CON1) used
for the EEG electrode leads is accessed through a 31 x 17mm crossshaped hole in the front of the box,
with the two indicator LEDs protruding through a pair of 3.5mm holes to
the right. The Arduino Nano’s MiniB USB socket is accessed via a 10 x
12mm rectangular hole in the rear of
the box.
These holes in the case should be
located and cut as accurately as possible so that the PCB assembly will
fit properly. Refer to the drilling diagram, which can be downloaded as a
PDF file from the SILICON CHIP website
(free for subscribers). Once the box has
been prepared, you’re ready for the final assembly stage.
The completed PCB is attached to
the inside of the box lid using four
August 2018 23
Fig.4: the completed PCB is mounted on the lid of the diecast
case via screws, nuts and spacers, as shown here. The lid is
then turned upside-down to become the base, as shown in the photo at right.
10mm-long M3 tapped metal spacers
and eight 6mm-long M3 screws. Refer
to Fig.4 for details.
Having mounted the PCB to the inside of the lid, fit the jumper shunts to
LK1-LK3. This will set the gain of all
three input channels to 20,000, which
is the best setting to start with.
Now lower the main part of the case
down over the PCB, tilting it at an angle of 20° or so at first so that CON1
and the two LEDs fit through the holes
in the front of the case. You can then
lower the back side down onto the lid,
while at the same time moving the case
slightly towards the rear. Once it’s together, use the four supplied countersunk-head M4 screws to attach the lid
to the case.
The final step is to apply a label to
the top of the box. Like the box drilling diagram, the artwork for the dress
front panel can downloaded as a PDF
file from the SILICON CHIP website.
Either way, we suggest that you hotlaminate the artwork for protection
against scratching and/or finger grease,
and then attach it to the top of the box
using double-sided adhesive tape or a
thin smear of silicone sealant.
We suggest that you also fit four
small adhesive rubber or plastic feet
to the box lid/base, so the heads of the
PCB mounting screws won’t scratch
any surface it’s placed on.
The electrode leads
Although it’s fairly easy to get hold
of commercial EEG electrodes at relatively low cost, this isn’t the case with
electrode leads. They are available online but are generally very expensive.
And most of them are not shielded and
they are typically fitted with special
line socket connectors for compatibility with commercial EEG machines.
So regardless of which type of electrodes you use, the best approach is to
make the leads yourself.
You can do this using a 3.6m length
of good quality figure-8 shielded audio
cable, which you can get from Jaycar
or Altronics.
Don’t try to use cheap, ready-made
stereo audio leads because they usually don’t provide adequate shielding.
They’re made to a price, not a recipe!
Cut the cable into three 1.2m
lengths. Remove 25mm of the plastic
sheathing from one end of each cable
and then unwind the exposed screening braid, twisting them together to
Here’s some commercial leads and attachments which we
bought on the ’net – but unlike the electrodes, which are
pretty cheap, commercial leads are rather pricey!
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Silicon Chip
form the earth connection wire.
Then remove about 6mm of the insulation around the inner conductors, after which you can tin the ends of both
pairs of wires, ready for soldering to
the pins of the DB9M plug which connects all three leads to CON1.
At the other end of each lead, remove 10mm of the outer sleeve, then
cut away the screening braid wires as
close as possible to the cut end of the
sleeve. Then remove about 6mm of the
inner insulation and tin the exposed
conductors.
Separate the two halves of the figure-8 cable by about 30cm, then slip
a 15-20mm length of heatshrink tubing over the two halves and solder
26mm insulated alligator clips to the
exposed wires.
These small insulated alligator clips
are the easiest way to make contact
with typical commercial EEG electrodes, which are fitted with a small
contact stud on the top.
Commercial electrode leads have a
special matching clip for these studs
but small alligator clips make a good
substitute. Slide the pieces of heatshrink up and over the bases of the
alligator clips and shrink them down.
But home-made leads, like the ones we made using good ol’
crocodile clips and good quality shielded figure-8 work just
as well at a fraction of the price. Note the electrode labels.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
And here’s how it looks
on completion, with
the front panel glued
to the “bottom” of the
case – which is now
the top! Ideally, the
label should have
a clear covering
(eg, clear adhesive
vinyl or even a
laminate) to
protect it from
grubby fingers!
This will give you the six shielded
leads (in three pairs) needed to connect
the main electrodes to the Brainwave
Monitor. But a seventh lead is needed
as well – the one for the ground reference or “Cz” electrode.
This doesn’t need to be shielded so
you can make it using a 1.2m length
of light-duty insulated hookup wire.
Just strip the insulation from about
6mm at each end and tin the ends of
the wire. Solder the seventh alligator
clip to one end of this wire.
The final step is to solder the tinned
ends of all of these leads to the appropriate pins of the DB9M plug, as
shown in Fig.5.
Note that the inner conductors of
each shielded lead go to pins 5, 9, 4, 8,
1 and 6, while their shield braid wires
all connect to pins 2, 3 or 7, along with
the wire of the ground reference lead.
Obtaining EEG electrodes
There are numerous EEG electrodes
available via a number of suppliers on
eBay at reasonable prices.
Many of these are cup-shaped devices about 10mm in diameter with a
connection stud at the top, made from
either gold-plated metal or conductive plastic.
Some of them have a flat base for
contact with the scalp, while others
have a double-hexagon array of tiny
feet. Some typical samples are shown
in the photo opposite.
Some of these electrodes are intended for wet use, with a smear of
conductive gel under the cup to ensure good electrical contact with the
scalp. Others are intended for dry use,
relying purely on physical pressure to
make contact.
Another type of EEG electrode you’ll
find is a smaller version of the self-adhesive electrodes intended for ECG use
(ie, monitoring the electrical activity
of the heart).
These have a dob of conductive gel
inside a sticky ring, with a peel-off film
over them both.
All you need to do with these electrodes is peel off the protective film
and then apply the electrode to the
right position on the subject’s scalp.
All of these electrodes have the same
problem, in that they have a tenden-
Fig.5: here’s how the crocodile clips
of our suggested ‘DIY’ leads are
connected to the studs of low-cost selfadhesive electrodes. The electrode at
lower right has been inverted to show
its ‘sticky ring’ and the centre dob of
conductive gel.
cy to move or fall off if simply placed
on the scalp; especially the dry types.
If you search the internet, you’ll
find various kinds of skull caps which
are designed to hold the electrodes in
position.
One of the most common types is
an open grid made from elastic tubing, with small plastic ties at each intersection and a larger coupling piece
down each side to allow attachment
of an adjustable length strap passing
under the lower jaw.
It looks quite weird, but should
stop the electrodes from moving. You
would first fit it over the subject’s head,
then slip the various electrodes under
the grid in the desired positions
These caps are available at fairly
low cost (around $10-20 each) but
Fig.5: How to wire the seven electrode leads to the DB9M plug which connects to the Brainwave Monitor’s input socket
CON1. Note that apart from the Ground Reference (Cz) lead, all of the other leads should be shielded. The shields of all
leads at the crocodile clip ends are left open circuit (only the internal wire is connected to the crocodile clips).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 25
Fig.6: A block diagram showing how the ‘software’ side of the Brainwave Monitor works. On the left are the modules
inside the Brainwave Monitor while on the right are the functions inside your laptop/notebook PC.
you also have the option of using an
old-fashioned elastic rubber or plastic shower cap, which would be much
cheaper.
You could mark the outside of the
shower cap with the 10/20 electrode
reference grid and punch holes in the
appropriate positions to hold the various electrodes in place, with their connection studs protruding to allow the
clips to be connected.
Taking an EEG
Apart from the gain of the input
amplifiers, all other functions of the
Brainwave Monitor are controlled using the software.
This is very easy to use because
when you fire it up, it provides a GUI
window (see screen grabs; Figs.7 and
8) which provides combo-box buttons along the top so you can set the
sampling configuration: the COM port
to which the sampler is connected,
the Baud rate to be used (normally
115,200) for communication and the
sampling time you want (5, 15, 30 or
60 seconds).
Then you start taking an EEG recording simply by clicking on the Start
Sampling button.
During the sampling time, progress
is shown by a progress bar along the
top, plus the sample plot displays
growing in the graph graticules.
As you can see there are two dropdown menus at the top, with the familiar labels “File” and “About”.
The first menu gives you options
for saving, reloading or printing your
EEG recordings and also for closing
the application when you’re finished.
The second menu is merely to display a small dialog box showing the
SC
version number of the software.
26
Silicon Chip
Fig.7: a screen grab taken during early testing, with an 8Hz 75uV sinewave
signal from a function generator applied to all three channels.
Fig.8: another grab showing an ‘ECG Waveform’ from the function generator
applied to all three channels, again during early testing.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
By
Dr David Maddison
In the 1966 movie “Fantastic Voyage”, a human rescue team is
ultra-miniaturised in order to travel into the body of an injured
scientist in order to repair damage to his damaged brain. We can’t do that
(yet!), but we can now swallow capsule which will make a slow trip to the
farthest reaches of the alimentary canal, taking pictures all along the way.
M
ost older readers will be familiar with an endoscopy (from the Greek word “endo” meaning inside
and “skopeein” meaning to see) – and especially
a colonoscopy procedure which is an internal inspection
of the gut and especially the bowel to check for the presence of cancer or pre-cancer. (If you are over 55, you should
have a colonoscopy arguably every few years).
The gut (otherwise known as the alimentary canal) comprises the roughly tubular structure that starts at the mouth
and ends at the anus and is associated with the absorption
of nutrients from food.
When food is eaten it passes down the oesophagus to
the stomach and then the small intestine, followed by the
large intestine and rectum.
Oesophagus
Stomach
Small Bowel
Tumour
Modern endoscopes consist of a flexible steerable tube
with a camera and light, along with various optional tools
for biopsy, minor surgical procedures and sensors (eg, for
pH) on the end.
Endoscopes are inserted at either end of the gut but they
can only reach as far as the duodenum at one end (gastroscopy) and the large intestine and possibly a portion of the
lower part of the small intestine (ileum) at the other (colonoscopy).
This means that almost all the small intestine is inaccessible. In humans, the large intestine is roughly 1.5 metres
long, the distance from mouth to the duodenum is about
0.5 metres and the small intestine is six metres long. So,
of the roughly eight metres of the gut, only two metres is
Bleeding
Ulcer
Crohn’s Disease
Angiectasia
Coeliac Disease
Some images of various organs and diseases obtained with the MiroCam camera-in-a-capsule.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
accessible by conventional endoscopy.
One way to image the small intestine (and the colon)
is via a “virtual endoscopy” in which data from CT and
MRI scans are processed to produce images. However, the
texture and colour of the organ cannot be visualised and
there is a limit to the resolution. Nor is there an ability to
take biopsy samples or remove polyps. But now there is
“capsule endoscopy”.
Lights, camera, action . . .
This swallowing a miniature “capsule” which
contains a light, camera, transmitter and other
electronics. About the size of a large vitamin pill,
it travels through the alimentary canal via the
natural action of peristalsis (the wave-like contraction of muscles that propel food and waste
through the gastrointestinal tract).
This idea is not new, having first been tried in
1957 to measure pressure in the small intestine of
patients with dysentery. However, the electronics required to send video data is far more complex than to
send simple data such as pressure and it is only now,
with miniaturised electronics, that the feat of sending video data can be achieved.
As an aside, we featured a much more recent “capsule”
in the May 2018 issue of SILICON CHIP, siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11060), which measures gut gases and transmits
the data via radio.
What can it diagnose?
While capsule endoscopy was originally developed to
image the small intestine it is now used to image all areas of the gut. So it is now possible to diagnose conditions
and diseases such as intestinal bleeding, unexplained iron
anaemia, Crohn’s disease, tumours in various locations,
coeliac disease, gastrointestinal polyps and damage to the
mucosa of the small intestine.
There are some contraindications to the technique preventing its use by patients who have conditions such as narrowing and obstructions in the gut and motility disorders.
Initial development
The first device of this nature was invented by an Israeli,
Gavriel Iddan, in the 1990s. He had been thinking about
Tear down by a third party of a PillCam. One YouTuber has also made some videos of the tear down of some capsules
he acquired. “Pill camera teardown” https://youtu.be/osAKuPGhK3I and “Another pill-cam teardown” https://youtu.be/
bH6i3bfie_E
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 29
the problem of imaging the gastrointesthe stomachs of pigs, using microtinal tract since 1981, when he learned
waves. In 1997 Paul and Gavriel
from his gastroenterologist neighbour
collaborated on the issue of wireabout the problem of the inability to imless transmission and in 1999 Paul
age the small intestine.
Swain had the honour of being the
Iddan co-founded Given Imaging in
first person to swallow a capsule
1998 to develop his prototype and it was
endoscope.
released with US FDA approval and EuThere is little information pubropean approval in 2001.
lished on the specifics of how PillAt the time there were suitable camCam transmits data but according
eras until CCD (charge coupled device)
to a test result published by Boscamera chips small enough to fit through
ton Scientific in 2008, the PillCam
the narrow confines of the small inteschecked for electromagnetic comtine became available.
patibility operated at 434MHz with
Parts of a typical endoscopic capsule.
But CCD chips consumed a lot of power Image source: Robert Koprowski,
a radiated power of 1μW (-30dBm).
and the batteries that could be fitted into University of Silesia.
This frequency is one of a range
a capsule-sized device only lasted for 10of different frequencies allocated
15 minutes. It was also not practical for a physician to wait by international agreement for a variety of uses and known
around for the capsule to pass through the body, watching as the ISM (industrial, scientific and medical) bands.
images being transmitted to a monitor. Nor were available
Given Imaging was bought by Irish company Covidien
memory capacities enough to store large video images.
in late 2013 for US$860 million and Covidien was then
The problem was solved when Gavriel decided to have purchased by US company Medtronic in 2015.
the patient wear a recording device for data that was to be
Gavriel Iddan was saddened by the sale, who thought it
transmitted from the device through the body to a receiv- was “unfortunate and unnecessary”.
er. This allowed the data to be reviewed by a physician at
a later time. The problem of camera power consumption Areas of use
was also potentially solved with the invention of CMOS
Today there are three main uses for endoscopic capsules:
camera chips after he read a 1993 paper by Eric R. Fos- small and large intestine and the oesophagus. For use in
sum entitled “Active pixel sensors: are CCDs dinosaurs?” the small and large intestine one camera is typically (but
A CMOS camera would use about one percent of the not always) used to conserve battery life as the time of paspower of a CCD. Later, Eric Fossum went on to work with sage can be eight hours or more. A relatively modest video
Given Imaging.
frame rate is satisfactory, to preserve battery life.
In 1994 Gavriel, with another Israeli, Gavriel Meron,
For use in the oesophagus two cameras can be used at opstarted to look for sources of funding and started assem- posite ends of the device, and a high frame rate is required
bling a team of physicists and engineers.
due to the rapid passage of the capsule when swallowed
His original patent, awarded in 1997, envisaged using a and battery life is then of little relevance. In other words,
CCD chip and a filament lamp which consumed too much as much data has to be obtained in as little time as possible.
energy to be practical. It was clear then that suitable offA typical capsule endoscope system consists of the capthe-shelf, miniature, low-power-consumption cameras were
sule itself, a system to acquire the wirelessly transmitted
not available and they would have to develop their own. data or a memory system to store video data on board with
One of the team, Dov Avni (whose speciality was analog certain models and software to allow a proper interpretavideo) was given the job of creating a new miniature cam- tion of the video.
era and light source from scratch.
A typical capsule consists of a camera with lens, LED/s
Once Dov had come up with a CMOS-based design, for illumination, a microprocessor for system control, a
Gavriel Meron went to Sarnoff Corporation in the US with battery for power, a transmitter and of course a case that
a view to their manufacturing the device. However, their is biocompatible and of a size, shape and smoothness that
senior researcher concluded that the thermal noise intro- is least likely to become trapped.
duced to the camera operating at body temperature would
Today there are a number of capsule endoscope systems
be too great and would lead to an unacceptable signal-to- on the market – we will take a look at some of them and
noise ratio.
their different features.
Following this Tower Semiconductor in Israel was approached as they had then developed a means to solve PillCam
the noise problem when a CMOS imaging chip operates
PillCam is the original
at higher temperatures. This made it possible for Gavriel capsule endoscopic capMeron to develop and produce swallowable, disposable sule by Given Imaging and
electronic capsules. They were also the first to utilise Shuji it is now available in sevNakamura’s invention of the white LED as a light source eral models: PillCam SB3,
in a commercial optical device.
PillCam Colon 2 and the PillCam UGI System.
The SB3 model is designed to image the small bowel
Transmitting the video
and uses adaptive frame rate technology that alters the
Getting a video signal from within the body was coin- video frame rate from between 2 and 6 fps. according to
cidentally being looked at by Paul Swain in the UK, who whether the capsule is moving through the bowel slowly
was transmitting video signals from small cameras from or quickly. Camera resolution is 340 x 340. It is 26mm long
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
and weighs 3g.
Colon 2, designed for imaging the colon., is
32mm long and
weighs 2.9g. It
has two cameras, with each
camera having a
wide 172° angle
of view for 344°
total. The device has an adap- PillCam Recorder
tive frame rate of 3, which is worn by
the patient to record
PillCam SB3 small between 4 and
video data. It can
sensor array for 35 fps. Adaptive
also display a camera
smaller patients frame rate conview in real time.
such as children. trol is designed
to prevent the
transmission of unneeded data’ such as when the device
is moving slowly and relies on bidirectional communication between the data recorder and the device. The Colon
2 can function for up to ten hours.
PillCam UGI, with two cameras, is intended to image
the upper gastrointestinal tract (oesophagus, stomach and
duodenum). The UGI operates at 35 fps for the first 10
minutes and 18 fps for
the last 80 minutes of a
procedure.
MiroCam wireless
is designed to observe the
receiver in its
small intestine and has a
charging
wide viewing angle; the
dock.
Navi model is designed to
be positionable in areas of
interest with an external magnet; the Green model has excellent battery life and is claimed
to be “eco-friendly” (it is not
clear from manufacturer literature what particular attribute
makes it eco-friendly).
Unlike other capsule endoscopes which use radio to transmit data, the MiroCam uses
electric field propagation. This is said to provide a longer
battery life than radio and uses two electrodes on the capsule, the body as the transmission medium and electrodes
on the skin to receive the transmitted data. A battery life
of up to 11 hours is possible.
MiroCam videos: This video shows a MiroCam
inside a pig, being manipulated by an external magnet “MiroCam Navi Magnetically
controlled Wireless Capsule Endoscopy
Demonstration Video in porcine mod”
https://youtu.be/hoQvjP9MCQA
A corporate instructional video
can be seen at “IntroMedic’s Mirocam
Capsule Endoscopy System”
https://youtu.be/32N9tNmvT7w
Left: MiroCam magnetic device to
manipulate location of some models
of capsule. Right: MiroCam electrode belt.
Alicam
ALICAM is a capsule (made by Infiniti Medical,
LLC www.alicamvet.com/) intended specifically
for dogs. ALI stands for ambulatory light-based
imaging. In this device the video data is stored
on the device which is retrieved by the owner
after the device has passed through the animal.
It is then returned to the supplier where a report is
produced and sent to the animal’s veterinarian. Unlike
“Rapid” software suite for use with PillCam.
MiroCam
MiroCam is a capsule
developed by Korean company IntroMedic (www.intromedic.com/eng/main/) It
has dimensions of 10.8mm
by 24.5mm and is available in a variety of models. Camera
resolution is 320 x 320.
The device comes in three main types: the Regular model
siliconchip.com.au
Image of duodenum observed with the OMOM capsule.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 31
Dispose, reuse and cost?
Most capsule endoscopes are disposable and no attempt is
made to retrieve them after use. except for the devices that store
imagery on board, such as the CapsoCam Plus for people and
the AliCam for dogs.
Since there are very high research and development costs for
these products it would seem more preferable make a small profit
from each unit sold than to pay a high price for a reusable device.
Even in the case of the aforementioned devices that are retrieved
to recover the data, they are not reused after data retrieval.
In the United States these capsules typically cost around
$US500. Cheapest is the OMOM which is US$250. No pricing
data was available for Australia but the Medicare item number
for the capsule endoscopic procedure is 11820 with a scheduled
fee of $AU2039, presumably including the cost of the device.
humans, a dog would probably try to tear off a recording
harness of the type worn by people.
OMOM
Made by the Chinese Jinshan Science & Technology (Group) Co, Ltd (http://english.jinshangroup.com/
capsuleendoscopy.html), the OMOM capsule has a battery
life of ten hours and a recording system is worn on a special belt fitted around the waist while the procedure is in
progress. Camera resolution is 640 x 480.
EndoCapsule EC-10
The EndoCapsule EC-10, made by Olympus, features a
single camera with a 160° view, a
relatively long battery life of up to
12 hours and a 3D tracking feature
to estimate its approximate position by the use of radiolocation
techniques. Camera resolution is
512 x 512.
The software has features to accelerate the reviewing
time by not showing duplicate images. Its dimensions
are 11mm x 26mm and it weighs 3.3g.
A 360° view of a patient with Crohn’s disease obtained with
CapsoCam Plus. Note the very high level of detail.
CapsoVision (CapsoCam Plus)
CapsoVision (www.capsovision.com/) have developed
a product called CapsoCam Plus that is unique in that
it stores video data in on-board memory so no external
data recording harness is needed
It also generates a 360° view from four centrally-mounted cameras and appears to be
identical to the AliCam for use in dogs
Unlike most other capsule devices this
one has to be retrieved so the data can be
downloaded. A special retrieval kit is supplied for the patient to retrieve the capsule after it is expelled. Video: “See the 360° Difference in Capsule Endoscopy with CapsoCam Plus” https://youtu.be/mIltjan2z6Q
Check-Cap
Check Cap Ltd (www.check-cap.com) is an Israeli company that have developed a device now in clinical trials.
The device has the same general appearance as other
capsule endoscopes but uses ultra-low-dose X-rays rather
than light as the imaging medium and allows for a colonoscopic procedure with no preparation apart from swallowing the capsule along with one tablespoonful of X-ray
contrast agent.
The device is called C-Scan Cap and is specifically designed for colorectal cancer screening. (Some people are
uncomfortable with or inadequately perform the preparation process for conventional colonoscopy)
Its position in the body is tracked by radiolocation and
it uses X-rays to produce both Compton back-scattered
photons and X-ray fluorescence photons. The difference
between these signals provides the distance from the capsule to the colon wall and thus the information required
to build a 3D map of the colon.
The capsule has an X-ray source which is collimated
and rotated to produce three beams which are emitted and
then subsequently detected by proprietary X-ray photon
counting electronics.
Information from the capsule is collected by three patches
worn on the patient’s back, along with a recording device.
Video: “C Scan” https://youtu.be/pjBj7IIuPWg
RF System Lab. (Sayaka)
The Sayaka (http://rfsystemlab.com/en/sayaka/) is a
battery-free endoscopic camera by Japanese company RF
System Lab. that offers 360° imaging with a rotating central camera.
Olympus EC-10 showing 3D tracking feature. The present
location and past track of the device is displayed. See
videos “ENDOCAPSULE 10 System: 3D Track Function”
siliconchip.com.au/link/aakj and
“Capsule Endoscopy Animation – Olympus EndoCapsule”
siliconchip.com.au/link/aakk
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Silicon Chip
Exterior view of C-Scan Cap . . . and without its outer case.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The ability to acquire 360° images makes it similar to
the CapsoCam Plus device which utilises four stationary
cameras to do the same task.
Power is beamed to the device via microwaves and there
is a microwave video transmitter on board that can capture video at up to 30fps. It has been under development
for many years but does not appear to be on the market as
yet. Video: “Sayaka: Next-generation capsule endoscope”
https://youtu.be/UHYPfcESvR0
Videos and other resources
Bravo pH capsule
*A paper from 1962 entitled “Telemetering from within the
body using a pressure-sensitive radio pill”. This includes circuit
diagrams and construction details which may be of interest.
http://gut.bmj.com/content/gutjnl/3/2/181.full.pdf
The Bravo device was designed by Given imaging (who
developed the PillCam – see above) but it is not a pill camera – it is designed to measure and test acid levels (pH)
arising from gastric reflux. The capsule is inserted into
the oesophagus with a “conveyor” instrument whereby it
is attached to the oesophageal wall via a vacuum where it
remains attached for up to 96 hours, before falling off and
passing through the gut to be expelled in the usual way.
Acidity is measured in the area of the lower oesophageal sphincter, the area affected by gastroesophageal reflux
disease which causes heartburn. During measurement period of 96 hours the patient wears a recording device. Its
dimensions are 6.0mm x 6.3mm x 26mm. Video: “Bravo Training Video” https://youtu.be/th6nR2PrWjE
Jinshan Wireless pH capsule
Jinshan also sells a wireless pH measurement device but
which appears to be similar to the Medtronic device. The
device has dimensions of 6.0 x 5.5 x 26.5mm and weights
1.4g. Video: “JINSHAN pH Capsule Feature Video” https://
youtu.be/LDnNGugiOy8
Data transmission rate
One source cites a typical data transmission rate from
an endoscopic capsule operating at 434MHz as 267kb/s
with a typical transmission distance of a number of centimetres. There are usually a number of antennas attached
to the patient so the maximum transmission distance to
the nearest antenna would be about half the thickness of
a patient’s body.
Limitations on the wireless data transmission rate can
be improved with variable frame rate technology to make
sure repeat images are not transmitted.
An alternative introduced with the CapsoCam Plus is to
record the images on internal memory but it has the disadvantages that real-time viewing is not possible and retrieval of the capsule is necessary.
Future developments
Current capsule endoscopes are normally propelled passively by the gastrointestinal tract, although some can be
manipulated with an external magnet.
Designs are being investigated that use some sort of
propulsion mechanism such as arms to propel the device
along or stop it at an area of interest – to perhaps take a
biopsy, for example.
One example of a propulsion system successfully tested
in a pig gut was developed by an Italian team in 2009 but
there seems to have been no further development since then.
Another area of interest is capsule devices with chemical sensors on board such as described in the May 2018
SILICON CHIP article.
34
Silicon Chip
* The following video shows a capsule endoscope’s view of a
tape worm infestation whereby the host (both of the show and of the
tape worm!) deliberately ingested tape worm eggs for the exercise.
“An investigation of Michael Mosley’s tapeworms - Infested! Living with Parasites - BBC Four” https://youtu.be/JeDD0HdecGk
*A video about an early “radio pill” to measure pressure in the
digestive tract. “Radio Pill (1961)” https://youtu.be/INJwjt8dkoU
Beyond that, there is a possibility of incorporating more
advanced sensors and diagnostic systems, such as on-board
testing for certain biochemical markers indicative of certain conditions or diseases.
Also under development is a capsule endoscope with a
drug reservoir to deliver medication to a specific area. Minor surgical procedures such as the removal of polyps are
other future possibilities.
Specific location drug delivery
Another development is that of delivering drugs to specific parts of the alimentary canal.
While not necessarily in an endoscopic capsule – for example, see the pill currently being researched to reverse
diabetes (opposite) – researchers are working on methods
of delivering precise drugs to precise areas, where they
will either do the most good or, indeed, not cause damage
to other organs.
Holding mechanism
fully deployed
Rotatable
outlet port
Medication
chamber piston
Removable cap
Dome lens
Dispensing needle
fully deployed
Static
outlet ports
Conical
spring
Capsule endoscope can also deliver up to 1ml of a drug.
Stephen Woods, Imperial College, London.
More room without batteries
Batteries occupy a significant volume of the capsule,
so their removal would allow more internal space, for additional electronics or sensor equipment. Wireless power
transmission with microwaves or electromagnetic induction is currently under study.
Devices with internal memory and no external reading
equipment required such as the CapsoCam Plus device
could be sent to people in remote locations who cannot
attend a clinic.
They could receive a diagnosis by collecting the used
capsule and sending it to a clinic for analysis.
Another important area of development is smart software to reduce the reviewing time of the video by the gastroenterologist.
This might include systems to automatically identify and
classify disease or other abnormal conditions.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
“SURGERY IN A PILL”:
A Possible Cure for Type II Diabetes?
Diabetes is said to be the biggest challenge
confronting the Australian health system, with
up to 1.7 million people having the disease. Of
these, it is estimated that up to half a million
don’t realise they suffer from it.
An illustration of
how the pill coats
the intestine,
mimicking the
effect of bariatric
surgery.
(Credit: Brigham
and Women’s
Hospital, Boston,
USA and
Randal Mckenzie)
D
iabetes occurs when the body’s ability to produce or
respond to the hormone “insulin” is impaired, resulting
in elevated levels of sugar in the blood and other (abnormal) metabolism of carbohydrates.
The result can be wild swings in the amount of blood sugar
as the brain tries to adjust levels. Often it overshoots, resulting
in too low a level (known as a “hypo”, short for hypoglycemia)
which often results in the victim collapsing. Too high a level (a
hyperglycemia) can introduce a wide range of life-threatening
problems.
Type 1 diabetes (10% of cases) is normally present from birth
(or a very young age). Type 2 diabetes, also known as the lifestyle disease, usually manifests itself later in life and accounts
for 85% of cases.
It’s one of those diseases which “sneaks up on you” but
uncontrolled diabetes has numerous serious health risks: eye
damage (through to blindness), limb damage (4,400 amputations due to diabetes every year) along with increased risk of
many other problems such as stroke, heart attack and more.
Can diabetes be cured or reversed?
While there are some exceptions, the answer is, in most cases, no. It can, however, normally be controlled to a large extent.
Most type 2 diabetics do this with a mixture of lifestyle change
(a change of diet and more exercise being the chief ones) plus,
in most cases, medication – either by tablet, or multiple injections of synthetic insulin each day to replace what the pancreas
cannot produce.
However . . .
For some years, researchers have identified a connection between the apparent reversal of type 2 diabetes following bariatric surgery (commonly known as gastric-bypass surgery),
where portion of the stomach is “closed off” to limit food intake.
The exact mechanism at play is still unclear but it seems to
operate independently of the weight loss that comes as a consequence of the procedure.
One recent study comprising 20,000 patients found that
gastric bypass surgery completely cured 84% of patients with
type 2 diabetes.
Promise from a Pill!
A research team at Brigham and Women’s Hospital, Boston,
USA, has developed medication which can potentially mimic the
effects of bariatric surgery – without the surgery!
siliconchip.com.au
by Ross Tester
It is thought that gastric bypass surgery is effective in reversing type 2 diabetes as it improves the body’s glucose management, by pushing digestion processes further into the intestine.
This can fundamentally alter how the body absorbs nutrients.
The team members searched for a starting material that would
have just the right properties to adhere to the small intestine
and then dissolve within a matter of hours. They selected a substance known as sucralfate, an FDA-approved drug that is used
in the treatment of gastrointestinal ulcers. The team further engineered the substance into a novel material that can coat the
lining of the intestine without requiring activation by gastric acid.
The engineered compound, referred to as LuCI (Luminal Coating of the Intestine), can be made into a dry powdered form that
can be encapsulated as a pill. So far, the new substance has only
been tested on rats but the results are extremely encouraging.
After a meal, blood sugar levels rise and can stay elevated
over time. However, one hour after LuCI was administered to the
rats, the response to glucose was lowered by 47%. The team
found that this response was temporary, and after three hours,
the effect essentially disappeared.
While further research is needed (including human trials),
this new oral stomach-lining compound, administered simply by swallowing a pill or capsule with meals, may effectively
mimic this process without the need for major bariatric surgery.
Original material from a report in “Nature” magazine, 11 June 2018.
Also sourced from Brigham and Women’s Hospital via EurekAlert SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 35
“Hands On” Review by Nicholas Vinen
We’re often asked what software we use to
create the projects – particularly the PCBs – in
SILICON CHIP. The answer is the Australian package,
Altium Designer – and we’ve used it for around ten years.
They release new versions frequently and so, during that
time, many features have been added. But the latest version,
Altium Designer 18, is the most radical and best update so far.
A
ltium Designer version numbers correspond to the
year of their release, so AD18 is the 2018 version,
AD17 is the 2017 version and so on.
We are currently using a mix of AD14 and AD17 (the use
of AD14 comes mainly down to “inertia”, ie, we were too
busy to upgrade and learn the new features!).
AD18 can be installed alongside an earlier version so that
you can still use the old version if necessary. Upon loading
it for the first time, the differences were immediately apparent and the biggest change is that AD18 is a lot faster than
AD14 or even AD17.
Altium claim that overall it’s around five times faster than
AD17 and for some operations, the improvement is even
larger. And while some operations still take longer than I
would prefer, overall it’s a major improvement and I am definitely more productive (and happier!) because I don’t have
to wait as long for certain actions to complete.
The speed-up is most noticeable on common tasks like
zooming into and out of and panning around a PCB, placing and moving tracks and so on. The 3D view is also a lot
faster and looks significantly better as the simulated light
source reflects off components (see Fig.1); not just the surface of the PCB, as used to be the case in the old version.
Another major change with AD18 is that they have abandoned the 32-bit version; it is 64-bit only. Since most recent
desktop and laptop computers have 64-bit processors, this
is not a problem however it won’t work if you are running
a 32-bit version of Windows. In that case, you will need to
stick with AD17. Seriously, you would be better off upgrading your machine.
Along with changing to a 64-bit application, Altium have
added support to take full advantage of multi-core processors. Since pretty much all desktop and laptop CPUs sold in
36
Silicon Chip
the last decade or so have at least two cores and often four
(or more), that will give significant performance benefits,
especially when working on large designs.
For example, it will speed up the Design Rule Check process, which can be quite time-consuming when you make
large-scale changes to a design.
User interface changes
The user interface is noticeably different. While there have
been subtle UI changes in previous versions, the changes in
AD18 are probably the biggest since Protel 99 gave way to
Altium Designer. While these changes are significant, they
Fig.1: the 3D rendering in AD18 is much improved
compared to previous versions and gives a more realistic
result. It’s also much faster, allowing you to zoom and
change the perspective very easily. In this screen grab, the
BC547 has been selected and the orange cone shows where
the mouse cursor is pointing. Note the simulated light
reflecting off the top of IC1 and surrounding components.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.2: the normal 2D editing view of the same board shown
in Fig.1. Q1 is still selected and you can see the new
properties panel at the right-hand side, which allows you
to easily view and change the properties of one or more
components as soon as you click on them. It’s also used
when setting up the initial properties for new objects that
are placed on the PCB or in a schematic diagram.
have taken some considerable effort to minimise the disruption on your work flow if you are already an experienced
Altium user. I am certainly glad of that, given how much
experience I have had using the software!
For example, in previous versions of Altium Designer,
when you were placing components, tracks, vias and so
on, you could press the Tab key to bring up a properties dialog. This would let you make changes such as altering the
width of the track you are placing, changing the routing
method or changing the particulars of the component (its
name, description etc).
So when I started using AD18, I pressed Tab but was a
bit confused by the fact that a dialog did not pop up as I
had expected. But then I realised that the properties have
now moved to a (more-or-less permanent) panel which by
default appears on the right-hand side of the main editor
window, although you can move it, like other dockable panels (see Fig.2).
So now, pressing Tab “freezes” the editor window (a
“pause” image appears in the middle) and moves the cursor over into the Properties panel. You can then move your
attention across to the side of the window and change whatever properties you need to, before “un-pausing” the editor
(which can be done by pressing Enter, the same key used
to close the old Properties dialog) and then resume editing.
So despite this fairly major change, because they have
made the hotkeys do more or less the same job, you quickly
get used to working with the new system.
I can see why they decided to make this change since the
old dialog-heavy interface was rather clunky and limited.
For example, you can now select multiple components and
simply change their properties via the panel, as you would
do with a single component.
In the past, to make multiple changes like that, you had
to use the separate Inspector panel.
Selection filter and select touching/inside
Another function we often used in combination with the
Inspector in earlier versions of Designer was the “Find Similar Objects” option. This is still present (see Fig.3) and it
allows you to find a related group of elements in your PCB
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(tracks, vias, components, text, etc) and then make mass
changes to them.
As noted above, the method for making those changes
is different now but you can still use the Find Similar Objects menu option to actually select them if you don’t want
to click on each one individually and you can’t just drag a
box around them. This is especially important if there are
hundreds of them and they aren’t all in one place!
But AD18 now provides a number of other ways to select
groups of objects, through both Selection Filters (Fig.4) and
a much larger variety of selection modes (Fig.5). I can think
of times that both of these new features would definitely
have come in handy in the past.
The Selection Filter lets you choose what type of objects
are selected when you drag a box around them. The options
are: Components, 3D Bodies, Keepouts, Tracks, Arcs, Pads,
Vias, Regions, Polygons, Fills, Text, Rooms and Other. You
can choose more than one option at a time and they’re all
on by default.
So for example, if you want to delete all the tracks and
vias in a certain area of the board so you can route them
again, you can simply set the Selection Filter to Tracks and
Vias only, drag a box around that area, hit delete and away
you go. There were methods for doing this in earlier versions (using Find Similar Objects) but they required more
steps and you could easily make a mistake.
Even more attractive are the new selection modes. Lasso
select means you can draw an arbitrary shape on the PCB
Fig.3: the Find Similar Objects dialog is a quick way to
select objects on the board based on their properties. For
example, you could select all objects with a particular
footprint, all pads of a certain size and shape or all tracks
of a certain width. Once they are selected, you can delete
them or change some properties of all the matching objects
with a few keystrokes or mouse clicks.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 37
Fig.4: the new selection filter window allows you to choose
what type of objects are selected when you drag an outline
around them.
and select whatever is inside it. Hooray! Selecting irregular
areas (which are of course quite common in PCB layouts)
was a royal pain in the past. Now it’s easy.
Also welcome is the ability to choose whether only those
objects fully contained within the outline are selected (“select overlapped”), or whether any components which partially overlap that area (“touching rectangle”) are selected.
Both modes come in handy at different times. The “Outside
Area” selection would be handy if you wanted to delete all
but a set of components, tracks, etc.
I’ve used the “Select Touching Copper” option many times
in the past (CTRL+H) but it’s now more easily accessible
through this new selection menu, along with quite a few other
useful options such as being able to select a “Net”, “All on
Layer”, “Free Objects”, “All Locked” and “Off Grid Pads”.
Next to this new Selection menu is a group of very useful
alignment tools that lets you do things like move all component text to a specific location relative to the component (a
real time saver but you do need to clean up the result), align
a group of components by their centres or edges (horizontally or vertically), space components out evenly and so on.
These would have been really handy to have when I was
laying out boards with rows of LEDs, resistors, relays – there
are many times that having those options would have saved
a significant amount of time.
The new floating toolbar at the top of the PCB editor also
has a number of commonly used functions such as placing components, tracks, text, vias and so on – stuff that you
use all the time is now in a more convenient location. Having said that, we tend to use keyboard shortcuts for most of
these functions anyway, since that’s a lot faster than moving the mouse.
the component libraries containing Analog Devices parts
(around 5000 devices total), and they are only one of around
one hundred manufacturers represented in the list.
We added the top level “Analog Devices” library to our
system and Fig.7 shows the list of devices that are made
available. This includes both the schematic symbols and
the PCB footprints.
We haven’t checked to see just how complete these libraries are but we would guess, based on past experience,
that while a large percentage of current ICs and semiconductors will be available, you will still occasionally come
across components that you want to use in your design for
which no library element is available.
Still, we expect the Unified Components Library will
save a lot of time and hassles when putting together a new
design. And it should also reduce the risk that you make a
mistake when creating a library element.
We noticed while browsing these components that the
software sometimes paused for several seconds while downloading data. Presumably, users with a faster internet connection will notice fewer delays. But you always have the
option of copying the components that you want to use to
a local file, to eliminate that delay.
Simulation
There are times where we have used ECAD software to
draw the same circuit up twice – once to simulate it (using SPICE), to verify that it works, then again in a different
piece of software to produce a netlist which is then used in
the PCB layout process.
For some time now, Altium has had the capability to run
its own SPICE simulation, so you can avoid doing this work
twice. To use this capability, all the components you place
in your circuit need to have a model defined. This would
normally be done in your libraries, however, you can add
them to components after they have been placed if necessary.
Like many Altium features, getting it to work the first
time is quite fiddly but once you’ve learned the tricks, it
is generally quite easy to work with.
The first challenge was finding the library which contains the components you need for simulations, such as
Libraries
The only library supplied with AD18 is a set of “Miscellaneous Components” which has a few useful devices but if
that’s all you got, you would be rather disappointed.
Luckily, the reason that it only comes with the one library
is that it’s really easy to pull in hundreds of manufacturerspecific component libraries from the Unified Components
Libraries which are hosted on Altium servers. The procedure for doing this is not obvious the first time but once
you know the trick, it’s really easy and the list of available
components is vast.
In the “Available Libraries” dialog, you need to select the
“Install from server...” option, then enter a name (that you
make up yourself) in the “Library name:” field. Next, click
“Add” and it will download a list of libraries from the server (see Fig.6). You can add one or more of these libraries to
your local library and the components will be merged together into a single, large list.
There are so many libraries available that we can’t even
come close to showing them all. Fig.6 shows just some of
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Silicon Chip
Fig.5: AD18 adds (or at least makes more accessible) many
new selection modes which help you choose which objects
on the board you want to move, delete, change, etc. Not
shown here are the extra options available from the other
icons on the new floating toolbar but they contain a number
of very useful menus including those which allow you to
align and arrange grids of similar objects.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.7: here we are are placing one of the 5000(!) components
in just the Analog Devices library that was shown partially
expanded in Fig.6. You get a preview of the schematic
symbol and component footprint. In some cases, you even
get supplier information, including which suppliers have it
in stock and the cost. This information can then be used in
the generated Bill of Materials.
Fig.6: just a small subset of the Unified Component Libraries
that can be pulled down from the Altium servers. You
can select a subset of the parts available from a given
manufacturer, based on their function, or simply pull in the
whole lot if that suits you. You can also combine objects from
multiple manufacturers into a single library on your system.
siliconchip.com.au
voltage sources, current sources and so on. This is necessary because normally, you would simply have a connector where power is fed in but Altium doesn’t know what
the properties of the power source are going to be. So you
need to tell it what voltages are present where, and you may
also need to feed test signals into various inputs and so on.
The library is supplied with AD18 but it doesn’t appear
in the list of libraries by default. You have to select the “Install from file...” option and then browse to the following
directory: C:\Users\Public\Documents\Altium\AD18\
Library\Simulation
There, you will find five simulation libraries: Math Function, Pspice Functions, Sources (as mentioned above), Special Function and Transmission Line. Having added these,
you can then add simulation elements into your schematic
in the same way that you would add a normal component.
We drew up a very simple circuit to simulate, shown in
Fig.8. In doing so, we discovered that the “Comment” field,
where we usually put the value of a component (which appears next to the component in both the schematic and on
the PCB) is not suitable for the simulation. You have to instead add a separate “Value” property to the object. That’s
a bit frustrating but once you know that you have to do it,
it isn’t much extra work.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 39
Fig.8: a simple circuit that we drew up to test out the SPICE
simulation features of Altium. R1 and C1 are standard
components from our library but have the SPICE Simulation
model field defined. V1 is a simulation-specific component,
ie, a sinewave source. If you double-click on the VSIN
Simulation model shown in the lower-right corner of the
window, you can set its frequency, amplitude etc.
Fig.9: the result of running a simulation on the schematic
shown in Fig.8. A darker background would help make
the waveforms more visible but you can see that the blue
trace below is the sinewave from VSIN while the red
trace above is the low-pass filtered version which lags
the blue trace and has a slightly lower amplitude due to
the action of the RC filter.
You can then run the simulation by pressing F9 or via
the Simulation menu. This menu also allows you to configure the simulation, although Altium does a good job of
selecting a sensible set of default parameters.
The resulting plot is shown in Fig.9. One of the features
I liked is that you can specify beforehand which signals
you want to plot so that you can close the simulation and
get back to working on the circuit.
Then later, when you re-run the simulation, the same
plots appear. Here we are plotting the output of the sinewave source at the bottom, and the output of the low-pass
filter at the top.
This shows the default colour scheme which has particularly low contrast. We would be inclined to change
this if we were going to use the simulation feature seriously. There doesn’t seem to be much point in having a
grey background; a black one would make the plots much
more visible.
Anyway, you can see that the filter output at the top
“lags” the input signal below and has a lower amplitude,
so the simulation is doing a good job of representing the
real behaviour of such a circuit.
project, there is also a procedure to cause any changes
which have been made in those modules to take effect in
the overall project.
Essentially, what they have done is added a form of hierarchical design to Altium and while this is not a feature we
would use all the time, it certainly would come in handy
for some of our more complex projects. Any project that
involves combining more than one PCB will greatly benefit
from using the new System Design features.
Multi-board designs
One of the new features added to AD18 is something
we’ve been wanting for a while now: multi-board design
capability. Previously, each project could contain multiple
schematics but the parts from these schematics would automatically be deposited in a single board file.
You could in theory design multiple boards in that file
but especially in larger projects, that would not be practical.
Now you use the Logical System Designer to tell Altium
which schematics are associated with which modules and
how those modules will be connected. You can then design separate PCBs for those modules.
You can also design the physical connections between
these various boards in the Multi-board Assembly editor.
Similarly to the way that Altium handles pushing changes in a schematic through to its corresponding PCB file,
when changes are made to the modules in a multi-board
40
Silicon Chip
Improved auto-routing
I’m generally not a fan of auto-routing, partly because it
never really seems to do a very good job and partly because
the router generally doesn’t understand important parts of
PCB design such as correct ground routing. However, having tried the auto-routing in AD18, I have to say that it is
very good and will definitely save me a lot of time in future.
Fig.10 shows the result of auto-routing one of my designs after deleting all the existing tracks and vias. It took
about 30 seconds to complete. Fig.11 shows the board that
I routed by hand.
Mine is a bit neater and has, I think, a better thought-out
ground network. But the auto-routed version has slightly
fewer vias and overall looks pretty good. (Of course, it helps
that I did arrange the components carefully.)
As well, the auto-routed version could be easily “cleaned
up” to be as good (if not better) than my initial attempt. Doing that would be a lot faster than routing it from scratch. I
certainly will be taking advantage of this in future!
Even if you aren’t going to use auto-routing in your final
design, it is worthwhile to run it in advance, just to see
whether your board is even routable and where the problem areas may be. It could give you some clues about rearranging the components.
AD18 also introduces a feature known as “ActiveRoute”
which is a hybrid manual/automatic routing system. It
seems quite handy but you would need to spend some
time familiarising yourself with its operation to take full
advantage of it.
At its most basic level, you simply select one or a few
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.10: one of our board designs which has been autorouted. There are a handful of design rule violations
resulting in some areas being highlighted in green but these
could easily be fixed manually. Overall, the result is fairly
neat and logical and does not use an excessive number
of vias or unduly looping tracks. Less manual tweaking
would be needed if we took more time to configure the
auto-router more carefully.
Fig.11: this is the original, manually-routed version of
the board shown in Fig.10. While it is a bit neater and
more carefully routed in some areas, with thicker tracks
where necessary to handle higher currents, it isn’t all that
different from the auto-routed version. The job of manually
running the tracks and polygon copper regions took many
hours, compared to under a minute for the auto-router.
pads or components at a time, then press Shift+A (or select the ActiveRoute menu item) and it then automatically
routes as many of the connections on the selected object
as it can. In this manner, you can save yourself the time
spent actually running the tracks while still deciding the
order in which the routes are made.
It also appears to have the ability for you to set up rules
to help guide the auto-router, to get it to do exactly what
you want. This would be a real time saver on a complex
board, especially one with FPGAs, CPUs and RAM. I think
it’s a clever idea; for example, you could let the computer
automatically route the “easy” tracks to save you time but
then route the critical ones by hand.
ous PCB layers, how the 3D version of the board is rendered and so on. It didn’t take a long time to set these up
again but it would have been nice if the settings had been
retained automatically. This is just something to keep in
mind if you are upgrading.
I also had to re-load my custom libraries into AD18 but
this is a fairly simple step and only takes a couple of minutes.
Compatibility
Generally, we didn’t have any problems opening files
created in earlier versions of Altium Designer in AD18. It
will still open AutoTrax and Protel files; there are some
problems with the imported files but that was true of previous versions as well.
One interesting quirk we noticed is how it deals with
rotated text in circuit diagrams. AD14 allowed you to
“flip” text but this only had the effect of changing how it
was aligned (by the left or right edge); the text remained
“right-side-up”.
AD18 now allows you to flip text upside-down if you
want to. Unfortunately, it applies this to circuits drawn up
in earlier versions of the software. So text that was right-side
up when we created the circuit now reads as upside-down.
This is not difficult to fix, of course, but it is a bit surprising.
Major upgrades of Altium Designer are generally installed alongside existing versions rather than replacing
them. For example, when I installed AD18, it left AD14
on my system and I can still go back and use that if necessary. But the installer does import the settings from the
previous version so you don’t need to go through and customise it all over again.
One group of settings that did not get imported, however,
is the “View Configurations” which I had set up in AD14.
These define the colours that are used to display the varisiliconchip.com.au
The Vault
This is a cloud-based storage system for your designs
(schematics, PCBs, projects etc). It is potentially very useful when you have a team working on large and complex
designs.
Since we tend to operate at a more-or-less individual
level at SILICON CHIP, we have not really made much use
of this feature but it is available to Altium users so it is
definitely worth considering.
Unlike some other ECAD packages, you are not forced to
use the Vault; you can still save all the files on your local
computer or network drive if you prefer to do so.
Conclusion
Altium is a huge and very complex program and few users would know how to use all of its features. But I have
to say that for something so complicated, mostly it is very
well thought out and not all that difficult to figure out. And
once you have mastered most of the features, you will be
able to produce a very large design in a reasonable amount
of time and with minimal chance for errors.
One benefit to using Altium is that they have very good
support. When I ran into a problem with one feature while
writing this review, I sent them an email asking for help
and got a response less than an hour later explaining what
I was doing wrong. They also have active forums and a
bug-tracking facility where you can report any problems
that you encounter.
For more information about Altium Designer and purchasing a licence, contact the Australian sales office at (02)
9410 1005 or email sales.au<at>altium.com
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 41
Super
Digital
SOUND
EFFECTS
Module
It’s not just for model trains! by Tim Blythman & Nicholas Vinen
Despite its miniscule size this is, by far, the most powerful sound
effects module ever published in Australia . . . and we haven’t seen
anything else to match it – anywhere in the world! It can be loaded
with dozens of sound effects or audio tracks, short or long, with a
virtually unlimited playback time and advanced controls. Have a
look at the features and specifications: you’ll be amazed!
Y
ou won’t believe that such a
tiny board (just 58 x 24 x 7mm
including the microSD card)
could give such spectacular performance and versatility.
It’s so tiny it can fit inside really small
spaces, such as the inside of a model
locomotive (hint?!).
But despite its size, it is feature
packed, with the ability to read and
play back a large number of WAV files
from an SD card, including the ability
to play several simultaneously (digitally mixed together).
It has advanced sound looping support, the ability to speed up and slow
down playback and the ability to select from multiple sounds for a single
input, round-robin style or randomly.
And the sample length can range
42
Silicon Chip
from a fraction of a second to many
hours.
While it is obviously ideal for model
railway sound effects (it can not only
fit inside HO-scale [and larger] locomotives but can also be triggered by a
DCC decoder).
As an example of what it could do
for a model railway layout, you could
set up one channel to provide an engine sound which includes start-up
and shut-down sounds, when the loco
starts and stops moving, and with a
sound that changes in pitch with the
speed of a wheel.
You could then have other channels
which overlay the engine sound with a
horn, the sound of brakes squealing, an
announcement or just about anything
else you can think of or need. And because it operates from a very wide supply voltage (5.5-18V DC or even a pair
of AAA or AA batteries) there are arguably no applications it can’t handle.
But its uses are much wider than
model railway layouts; in fact, it suits
just about any application where sound
files are required.
Shown here life size, the new Super
Digital Sound Effects Module is tiny
enough to fit just about anywhere . . .
For instance:
Australia’s electronics magazine
• triggering a sound effect when a door
siliconchip.com.au
is opened or closed (a great one for
Star Trek fans!),
• as part of a child’s toy,
• to make a novelty greeting card,
• to make announcements in an elevator,
• as part of a vending machine,
• as an audio guide or to play sounds
for museum exhibits.
The possibilities are practically limitless. We’re sure there’s another two
or fifty rolling around in your head
right now!
It will, without any add-ons, directly
drive an external 8Ω speaker with its
inbuilt 1.2W audio amplifier. And the
sound is great!
If a speaker is too thick for any particular application, the Super Sound
Effects Module can drive a piezo
transducer (although, of course, the
Super Sound Effects Module sound
quality will not be anywhere near as
good). The sounds can be triggered by
switches, relays or the outputs of a microcontroller.
Compare this to a commercial-available sound effects module for a model
locomotive. These typically cost over
$100 and include engine sounds, horn
or whistle sounds, brake sounds and
others depending on the model. And
they’re most unlikely to have the versatility or features this module offers!
Check out these features & specifications!
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
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16-bit digital-to-analog converter with 47kHz sampling rate
Onboard 1.2W audio amplifier capable of directly driving an 8-ohm speaker
MicroSD card slot for sound storage (some built-in sounds provided)
Four-channel audio mixing
Multiple sound looping options including “attack-sustain-release” mode
Seven digital trigger inputs, triggered on a low or high level
Each input can trigger one or many sounds (round-robin or randomly selected)
Variable playback speed option, based on an analog voltage or pulse rate
Plays 8-bit or 16-bit WAV files with sampling rates of 1-64kHz
Supports mono or stereo PCM (uncompressed) files; stereo files are downmixed to mono
Two supply options: 2.0-3.6V battery or 5.5-18V DC input
Very low idle current (<10µA when battery powered, <1mA from DC input)
Typical power consumption while operation: ~40mA (depends on volume,
speaker type etc)
Typical start-up delay: <0.5s from sleep mode, <0.1s from idle mode
Based on a low-power PIC32 running at 24MHz
Onboard error/activity LED
Configured via text file on microSD card
While the sounds themselves are important, the way they are played back
and mixed adds to the effect. This module has eight different playback styles
that can be configured, incorporating
How it works
multiple sounds for each input.
The basic circuit arrangement is
For example, a horn or whistle sound
shown in the block diagram, Fig.1. The
typically rises in volume, maintains
Super Sound Effects Module is based
a level, then fades away slowly. One
on PIC32 microcontroller IC1, which
of the inputs on the Super Sound Efreads ordinary WAV files from the mifects Module can be set up to provide
croSD card and plays them back when
this effect. For example, we can cretriggered via one of
ate three separate
its digital inputs.
sound files: one for
Once the audio
the rising part, one
data has been read
for the steady part,
off the SD card and
and one for the fadprocessed, it is fed
ing part.
to I2S-input digitalWhen the apto-analog converter
propriate input is
(DAC) IC2 and then
pulled low, the
to 1.2W audio amplirising level sound
fier chip IC3, which
plays. While the
can drive a small (or
input remains low,
large) speaker or a
the steady sound is
piezo transducer.
repeated as often
There are two powas necessary and
er supply options
finally, the fading
shown in Fig.1, one
sound is played
for a nominally 3V
when the input is
battery and one for a Fig.1: this shows how PIC32 microcontroller IC1 communicates with a
released.
5.5-18V DC supply; microSD card using one of its two hardware SPI interfaces. The other is
This mode is
there will be more configured in I2S mode and drives the DAC, IC2.
called “ASR”,
siliconchip.com.au
details on these options later.
The Super Sound Effects Module is
not just limited to simply playing one
of seven sounds.
By means of a simple text-based
configuration file that is saved on the
card, the operation of each of the seven trigger inputs can be customised
to play back one of several sounds
or a series of sounds with separate
volume and mode configurations for
each input.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 43
short for Attack, Sustain, Release,
which describes the three phases of
the overall sound effect. This style
also suits generating sound effects for
equipment such as compressors and
dynamic brakes, which all have a characteristic ramp-up, hold and fade-away
sequence.
Engine sounds are usually heard
continuously, and there is an option to
loop a sound as long as an input is triggered, or to alternate this with another
sound that loops while the input is not
triggered. There is also an option for
a sound to play once when triggered,
which is perfect for announcements
and other one-off effects such as coupler clash or guard’s whistle.
There are two more options, similar to the loop and single modes mentioned above. They more or less work
in the same fashion, but if the input is
released during playback, the sound
stops immediately.
If one sound is triggered while another is still playing, normally they will be
mixed together so that you hear them
simultaneously. But this can lead to
volume overload and distortion.
So each trigger input can specify
a playback volume for the associated
sounds, adjusted over a range of 256
steps. This allows the right balance
of sounds to be set up. There is also
a master volume setting which affects
all sounds.
Since the unit is configured through
a file on the SD card, that lets you easily
combine the many available options to
suit your particular application, whatever it might be.
For example, a single WAV file running in “cropped single” mode is ideal
for a custom birthday card powered by
a battery, as the sound will only play
Fig.2: compare this complete circuit diagram to the block diagram, Fig.1. Either REG1 or REG3 is fitted (not both) to
provide the 5V rail which powers IC2 and IC3. The seven series resistors between IC1 and CON4 help to protect IC1
against damage from static electricity or voltages outside its normal operating range of 0-3V or 0-3.3V (depending on
the supply option).
44
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
once when triggered and will stop
when the card is shut, preventing unnecessary battery drain.
The use of up to seven WAV files in
single or looped playback mode can
provide seven custom voice prompts
or warning sounds controlled by separate triggers. These could even include
DTMF tone sequences (there are online
DTMF tone generators available) which
automatically dial a preset phone number, with the unit’s output fed into a
telephone line through an appropriate
coupling method.
It isn’t even necessary to have more
than one WAV file on the card to use all
the inputs. Each input can be set to use
the same WAV file in different modes
or at different volumes. We’ll go into
the detail of what each of these modes
does and how they are set up later on.
General operating concept
The circuit diagram, Fig.2, shows
the overall configuration of the Super
Sound Effects Module. At its heart is
PIC32MM0256GPM028 microcontroller IC1, featuring 256kB of flash program storage and 32kB of RAM. The
combination of a 32-bit processor and
ample RAM are essential to the effective sampling and mixing required by
this project.
The PIC32MM series is designed for
compact low power applications and
runs at only 24MHz from an internal
fast RC oscillator (8MHz), with the oscillator’s output multiplied by a PLL
(phase-locked loop). The large flash
storage space allows us to fit the required software along with a few “bonus” samples which can be used without an SD card inserted.
The PIC communicates with an SD
card inserted into micro socket CON1
using one of its two hardware SPI ports.
Besides the four usual SPI lines (clock,
data in, data out and select), there is
just one additional connection to the
SD card socket, allowing the micro to
sense the state of its “card detect” microswitch.
This pin is shorted to ground when a
card is inserted and is otherwise open
circuit. An internal pull-up current is
enabled by the software in IC1 which
holds this pin high when the card detect switch is open, allowing the software to read the digital pin state and
determine whether a card is present.
Once the audio data has been read off
the SD card and processed by the micro, it is fed to a stereo digital-to-analog
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The reverse side of the Digital Sound
Effects PCB has a few components
fitted including switches S1 & S2.
converter, IC2 (CS4334). The sound effects module operates in mono but most
good quality audio DACs are stereo so
we simply feed the chip identical data
for each channel (this is a hardware option on the micro) and use just one of
the DAC’s outputs (AOUTL) at pin 8.
The audio from this pin is fed to
a mono bridged amplifier IC, IC3
(IS31AP4991). The audio signal is
AC-coupled with a 10µF capacitor as
the DC bias levels of the DAC and amplifier will not necessarily be the same
(although they will both be similar, at
around 2.5V).
The signal also passes through a
22kΩ series resistor which forms a lowpass filter with the two capacitors connected to IC3’s pin 3 inverting input,
as well as setting the bridged amplifier gain to two times, as it is the same
value as the 22kΩ resistor from the pin
2 output back to the inverting input.
The 22kΩ series resistor and 100pF
capacitor to ground form a low-pass
filter with a -3dB point of 22kHz, reducing the DAC’s sampling artefacts.
The 330pF capacitor across the 22kΩ
feedback resistor also provides a lowpass filtering effect as well as helping
to stabilise the amplifier and prevent
oscillation.
A 1µF capacitor from pin 5 of IC3 to
ground stabilises its half-supply reference, helping to prevent any noise
which may be present on its supply
rail from being injected into the amplified outputs. It also has a 1µF supply bypass capacitor close to the IC, to
provide it with bursts of current during
audio transients. IC3 drives the 8-ohm
speaker directly, which is connected to
its bridge output pins 6 and 2, via pin
header CON2.
The amplifier IC is capable of directly driving an 8Ω speaker to more than
1W, assuming the power supply is capable of delivering the current. Depending on how the circuit is powered, the
supply may not be capable of delivering the required current of 250mA or
more. In this case, a higher impedance
speaker can be used, or a resistor can be
Australia’s electronics magazine
connected in series with the speaker to
limit peak currents; more on this later.
Alternatively, you can connect a
piezo transducer in place of the speaker. The sound quality will not be as
good but the efficiency is higher and the
amplifier has no trouble driving such a
load (which is capacitive).
Digital audio interface
We operate the DAC (IC2) with a sampling rate of 46.875kHz. This may seem
like an odd value; more typical sampling rates would be 44.1kHz (as used
for CDs) or 48kHz (as used for DVDs).
The reason for the unusual value is that
this is an integral fraction of the maximum clock speed of the microcontroller, IC1 (24MHz). Hence, it can easily
be produced by the micro using one of
its internal timers/counters.
The DAC IC requires a “master clock”
which is a multiple of the sampling
rate and the multiple must be one of
several fixed ratios supported by the
IC, specifically, 128, 192, 256, 384 or
512 times. If we run the micro at the
full 24MHz and choose the 512 times
value for the master clock, that allows
us to have a sampling rate of 46.875kHz
(24MHz ÷ 512) and this is the one that
we have chosen.
The other multiplier values give a
higher sampling rate unless we lower
the microcontroller clock speed but
that would then slow down its processing. So we decided that the values
specified above were the best choices.
As well as the master clock signal,
which is fed to its pin 4, IC2 expects
16-bit digital audio data in I2S format
fed to pins 1-3, where pin 1 is the audio data input, pin 2 is the bit clock
(which runs at 32 times the sampling
rate, ie, for two channels with 16 bits
of data each) and pin 3 is the left/right
clock which runs at the sampling rate
and indicates when the left channel
data is on pin 1 (LRCK low) and when
it’s the right channel data (LRCK high).
Microcontroller IC1 has specific
hardware for generating digital audio
signals, including I2S format. It does
this using one of its two hardware SPI
(serial peripheral interface) units. I2S
is similar to SPI but there are a few
minor differences, such as the need to
generate the extra left/right clock output signal.
So the serial data (to pin 1 of IC2)
and bit clock (to pin 2) are generated
in virtually the same manner as they
would be in SPI mode, from output pin
August 2018 45
Parts list – Super Digital SFX
1 double-sided PCB, coded 01107181, 55 x 23.5mm
1 SMD microSD card socket (CON1) [Altronics P5717 or similar]
2 mini SMD two-pin tactile pushbutton switches (S1,S2) (optional)
[eg, Switchtech 1107G]
1 5-pin header (CON3) (optional, to program IC1)
1 speaker, size to suit (8Ω or greater) or piezo transducer (see text)
1 two cell AAA or AA battery holder (optional)
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS programmed with 0110718A.hex, SSOP-28 (IC1)
1 CS4334 16-bit stereo DAC, SOIC-8 (IC2)
1 IS31AP4991 mono bridged audio amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC3)
1 MCP1640 boost regulator, SOT-23-6 (REG1)*
1 MCP1700-3.3 LDO linear regulator, SOT-23 (REG2)
1 MCP1703-5 LDO linear regulator, SOT-223 (REG3)#
1 blue SMD LED, 3216/1206 package (LED1
1 1A schottky diode, DO-214AC (D1) [eg, SS14]#
# only required for 5.5-15V DC powered version
Capacitors (all SMD X7R ceramic, 6V, 2012/0805 size)
4 10µF
7 1µF 16V
1 330pF
1 100pF
Resistors (all SMD 1%, 2012/0805 size)
1 1MΩ
1 330kΩ
1 270kΩ
1 47kΩ
1 0Ω (LK1/LK2)
2 22kΩ
8 1kΩ
Inductors
1 4.7µH chip inductor, 3226/1210 size package, 1A+ (L1) [eg, Taiyo Yuden
CBC3225T4R7MR]* * only required for battery-powered version
6 of IC1 (configured as SDO) and pin
2 (configured as SCLK) respectively.
Pin 7 of IC1 would normally be the
SPI chip select (CS) output but in audio mode, this becomes LRCK.
The MCLK signal for IC2 is produced
from digital output pin 3 of IC1 but
does not come from the audio signal interface. Instead, this pin is configured
as a PWM output using a timer derived
from the micro’s system clock. Since
this same clock is used to generate the
I2S audio signal clocks, the signals are
synchronised and the ratios are locked.
When the DAC is not being used and
the micro is in sleep mode, since the
micro is no longer driving the MCLK
and LRCK pins with square waves, IC2
automatically goes into a low-power
sleep mode. The amplifier can also be
put into a low-power mode by the micro by pulling its shutdown input (pin
7) high. This is connected to digital
output RB5 (pin 11) on IC1.
but this can be inverted with a software option.
Each of these pins connects to a
digital input on the micro via a 1kΩ
resistor which is present to protect
the microcontroller in case a voltage
outside the range of 0-3V is applied to
one of these pins, by limiting the current through the micro’s input clamp
protection diodes.
Each of the micro’s seven digital trigger inputs is configured by the software
to be supplied with a small pull-up current which flows from VDD. This holds
those input high unless they are externally pulled low. So pin 1 on CON4 is
tied to ground so you can trigger the
sound (in the default mode) by shorting
pin 1 to one of the other pins.
This can also be done by an external
switch, relay or transistor. If onboard
tactile pushbuttons S1 and S2 are fitted, they can be used to trigger the first
two sound effects channels.
Trigger inputs
Power supply
Sound effects are triggered when
one of the digital input pins 2-8 on pin
header CON4 change state; normally
they are triggered by being pulled low
The power supply arrangement on
this board is a little complicated since
it is designed to be set up for two different power sources: either a battery
46
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
of around 3V (eg, 2 AA or AAA cells)
or a 5.5-18V DC supply from a plugpack, model railway train tracks (DC or
rectified and filtered AC) or the rectified and filtered output of a transformer or similar.
When powered from a ~3V battery,
link LK1 is shorted and thus microcontroller IC1 is powered directly off the
battery. When in sleep mode, it draws
a tiny amount of current (under 1µA)
so this connection will not drain the
battery.
Switching boost regulator REG1 is
also fitted for battery use. When in
sleep mode, the micro keeps this shut
down by driving its pin 3 enable input
low, from its RA2 digital output (pin 9).
When that output goes high, the boost
regulator is enabled and it produces 5V
at its pin 5 output.
No external transistors or diodes are
required since this is a synchronous
regulator, with all switching done internally. This also maximises efficiency. The external components that
are required are inductor L1 which is
used as an energy storage device and to
boost the voltage, 10µF ceramic input
bypass and output filter capacitors and
a 1MΩ/330kΩ resistive feedback divider which sets the output voltage to 5V.
The 5V supply then powers the DAC
(IC2) and audio amplifier (IC3). IC2
requires a 5V supply while IC3 can
operate from 2.7-5.5V but will have
a greater output swing and thus better power delivery when operating at
higher voltages.
This 5V supply is then reduced to
a regulated 3.3V supply to power the
microSD card by linear regulator REG3.
While boost regulator REG1 can
work with an input supply as low as
0.65V, since IC1 is also powered from
the battery this means the minimum
operating voltage is 2.0V.
Typical microSD cards will accept
signal levels down to 2.0V, although
they require a minimum supply voltage of 2.7V, so the card should not be
the limiting factor on the minimum
operating battery voltage.
With REG1 shut down, the only components drawing power are IC1 and
REG1, both of which have very low
current demand in the sleep/shutdown
state. Total standby current is just a
few microamps. Note though that this
has the disadvantage that the microSD
card must be initialised immediately
upon the device being triggered which
means there can be a delay in playsiliconchip.com.au
ing back the first sound. This can be
reduced by either pre-buffering some
sounds in RAM or by keeping the micro awake and the regulator active for
some time after each trigger even, so it’s
ready to be re-triggered. We’ll explain
these schemes in more detail later.
Alternative power supply
arrangement
If a higher supply voltage is available then boost regulator REG1 is not
necessary and should not be fitted. Reverse polarity protection diode D1 and
5V linear regulator REG3 are fitted instead. The DC supply is connected to
pin header CON5 and the 5V output
of REG3 powers IC2 and IC3.
REG2 supplies 3.3V to the microSD
card as before but in this case, LK2 is
inserted rather than LK1 and so microcontroller IC1 also runs from the
output of REG2.
With this supply configuration, the
sleep current is higher because IC2,
IC3, REG2 and REG3 are always powered however these are all capable of
entering low-power sleep mode or have
a low quiescent current.
The microSD card is also powered
continuously, however, this is kept in
a low-power standby state unless it is
actually being used.
So the sleep mode current with this
power supply arrangement is higher
than with a battery and depends on
how much current the SD card draws
in its idle state. IC2 draws around
45µA and an SD card is usually around
0.5mA in standby mode, for a total
that’s typically well under 1mA.
Note that REG3 is physically larger
than the other regulators (in an SOT223 package rather than SOT-23) and
it is soldered to a solid copper plane.
This is necessary since, at higher input voltages (eg, 12V), its dissipation
could be substantial.
During sound effect playback, the
circuit could draw more than 100mA
and with a 12V input and 5V output,
that’s in excess of 0.7W of dissipation.
Software details
The software for this project is quite
complex as it provides many different
configurable features and does a lot of
“real-time” processing in order to read
and play back multiple files with different sampling rates and looping options at the same time.
Practically all of the 32KB RAM is
used to buffer samples from the microSD card and the spare flash memory
is filled with some useful audio samples as well.
Initialisation
On startup, the software performs a
number of initialisation tasks. It needs
to set the initial state of the LED drive
pins, control pins for REG1 and IC3
and microSD card interface pins. Both
internal SPI peripherals need to be set
up as one is used for communication
with the SD card and the other, with
the DAC. They also have re-mappable
I/O pins so those need to be set to the
correct external pins.
Since the only interrupt service routine used by the software is for feeding
audio data to the DAC and this should
not be interrupted, the interrupt priority is set to the highest possible level.
It turns out that Audacity (by default) adds ‘dither’ to
files as it saves them to spread out quantisation errors
on downsampling. Unfortunately the dither is audible,
especially for 8-bit samples. To turn off dithering, select
Preferences from the Edit menu, and set Dither on Highquality Conversion (here, High-quality Conversion means
saving rather than playback) to none.
siliconchip.com.au
Pin 3 is set up as a 12MHz clock output to provide the master clock (MCLK)
for the DAC. This utilises the SCCP4
peripheral (single ended capture/compare/PWM) with a prescaler of 1:1 and
a period of two clocks (the system clock
is 24MHz). The rising edge register is
set to zero and the falling edge register to one, meaning that the output alternates on each clock pulse, giving a
12MHz square wave.
The microSD card requires power
before it can be initialised, so as soon
as the unit is triggered, the control pins
for REG1 and IC3 are brought high to
switch them on. The software then
checks the level on the microSD card
detect pin and flashes LED1 to indicate
an error if it is not found. The card initialisation procedure then starts and
once the card is ready, the configuration file is then found and loaded.
The configuration file consists of
lines of text which are then “parsed”
one at a time, to extract the required
settings, then stored in RAM to be referred to later.
Once that is complete, the interrupt
which produces I2S data for the DAC
is activated and then the Super Sound
Effects Module is ready to operate.
There are three 512-byte buffers for
each of the four playback channels (ie,
twelve buffers total). The interrupt service routine (ISR) checks whether there
is any audio data to be played back and
if so, applies the appropriate volume
for each channel and mixes the resulting samples.
The mixed sample value then has the
master volume applied and is clipped
to remain within the -32768 to +32767
You can see the difference by exporting a file of silence as
8-bit WAV before and after the change. Reopen the files (as
we have done here, and amplify each by 40dB. The one
without dither remains at zero, while the file with dither
has an obvious hiss. 16-bit files also have dither applied but
the effects will not be as pronounced as the effects for 8-bit
files.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 47
range for 16-bit audio data.
If any clipping occurs, a flag is set
which is picked up by the main loop
and it operates to reduce the overall
volume to limit distortion.
Main loop
With the DAC ISR handling audio
output, the main program loop continues running. In addition to checking for the clipping flag, it also monitors each of the triplets of audio buffers. If one becomes empty and there
is more data in the associated file, it
fetches more data from the SD card to
“refill” the buffer. This way, the ISR
never “runs out” of audio data until
it’s time to stop playback.
After it fetches the data, it then resamples that data (using linear interpolation) to match the DAC’s sampling
rate of 46.875kHz and also converts any
8-bit data to 16 bits, and stereo data is
downmixed to mono.
The optimum WAV file format for
use with this unit is 16-bit mono at
46.875kHz, as this will not normally
result in any re-sampling or downmixing. However, the use of 44.1kHz and
48kHz files will not result in much
degradation.
Once it has ensured that all the audio buffers have data as required, the
PIC then turns its attention to the seven
digital trigger inputs. The behaviour of
each input depends on the mode selected in the configuration file.
If it determines that an input has
been triggered, it then checks if one of
the four audio output channels is free.
If so, the free channel is set up to play
back the sound which has been configured to be triggered by this particular
input. In doing so, it fills up that output channel’s audio buffers before it
actually starts playback, so that it will
be able to fetch more data as they are
emptied over time.
Once the buffers are empty and the
source file(s) are exhausted, that channel is freed up for use by another sound
effect trigger in future.
If an input is set up with one of the
“attack-sustain-release” type configurations mentioned earlier then it is necessary to start playback of a second file
once the first one has finished. In this
case, as soon as the first file playback
is finished and an audio buffer is free,
the second file is opened and the audio buffer refilled. The same procedure
happens once the “sustain” sample has
finished playback.
48
Silicon Chip
If an input is set up to play files in
round-robin or random mode then
multiple files can be specified for that
input. In round robin mode, the first
time the input is triggered, the first file
is played back. The second time it is
triggered, the second file is played back
and so on until the last file is played
back, at which point the sequence restarts.
In random mode, a pseudo-random
number generator is used to select one
of the listed files to play back each time
that input is triggered. Each subsequent
trigger event may therefore trigger the
same sound again or a different sound;
there will be no obvious pattern.
If there is no audio being played
back, the main loop starts a timer. Once
that timer has reached a user-configured threshold, the unit goes into lowpower sleep mode, powering down the
SD card and anything else that’s under
the micro’s control (including itself!).
Because we are not writing anything
to the microSD card, the file handles
and configuration data will can remain
in RAM and do not have to be read off
the card again, saving some time next
time an input is triggered and the chip
comes out of sleep mode.
Changing playback pitch
The trigger inputs connected to pins
5 and 6 of CON4 (ie, pins 10 & 11 of
IC1) can also function as analog inputs. So one feature of the software is
the ability to reprogram either or both
of these inputs as analog voltage pins
which control the playback speed and
therefore pitch of the sounds triggered
on other channels.
If enabled, the software periodically
samples the voltages on the appropriate pin using IC1’s internal analog-todigital converter (ADC) and then uses
this to “tweak” the sampling rate that’s
being used to play back the sounds for
the configured channel.
For example, if we play it back at
half of the actual sampling rate then the
sounds will be one octave lower than
normal (and will take twice as long to
play back) while if we play it back at
double the actual sampling rate, the
sounds will be one octave higher and
it will take half as long to play back.
In reality, the sampling rate shift is
not normally this extreme but it allows
for engine sounds that change in pitch
with speed and so on.
The trigger input connected to pin
4 of CON4 (ie, pin 19 of IC1) can funcAustralia’s electronics magazine
tion as the clock input for IC1’s internal TIMER3 counter. This pin can be
configured as a pulse counter input
and the pulse rate (ie, frequency) can
then be used to vary the sound playback rate.
Regardless of whether you are using
an analog voltage or a pulse frequency
to vary the sound playback rate and
pitch, you can specify on a per-channel basis which is the controlling input, the control range of the voltage or
frequency and the percentage change
in playback rate which results.
Audible debugging
Since the unit has no display and
only one LED, which can indicate just
a few error conditions, we have also
programmed the chip with an audible debugging mode. When enabled,
it “speaks” its settings via the audio
output, so that you can check to see
whether it has been configured the way
you have intended.
We have implemented this feature
by using speech synthesiser software
to produce samples for all the necessary words and numbers and then
these have been stored in the PIC’s
flash memory.
So when you enable this mode,
called “speakback” in the configuration file, at power up it will audibly
list all of its settings and then you can
listen to the output and see whether
everything is as expected.
The only part of the configuration
which isn’t “spoken” is the file names.
Each file mentioned in the configuration file is checked to see if it appears
to be valid (ie, the name refers to a file
that’s stored on the SD card) and it will
then say “OK” or “not OK” depending
on whether the file has been found or
not. Otherwise, all configuration parameters are read out for you to check.
Once you’re happy that the configuration is correct, you can edit the config file and switch this mode back off,
to get normal operation.
Next month
Phew! That’s enough to digest for
one month . . . but having read all that,
we trust you’ll agree this is one very
clever little device (little being the operative!).
In part two next month, we will get
onto the fun part: putting it together
and full instructions for setting up
and using the new Super Sound Effects Module.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Test, Measure
& Build.
EVERYTHING FOR YOUR WORKBENCH
Learn
About...
Clampmeters:
Our new range of Clampmeters are packed
with features found on more expensive units
such as True RMS, non-contact voltage,
relative/frequency etc. Supplied with quality
test probe and carry case.
$
$
499
FINDER
3D PRINTER TL-4220
59 95
600A TRUE RMS AC
EASY TO USE. SAFE. AFFORDABLE.
QM-1630
• Cat III, 4000 display count
• AC/DC Voltage: 600V/600V
• AC Current: 600A
See website for details.
BONUS
Fully assembled capable of printing right out of
the box with few tweaks. All heated elements are
kept away from touch. Non-toxic PLA filament.
Perfect starter 3D printer for families, schools as
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• 3.5" touchscreen panel
• Filament-run-out detection
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• Connect via USB stick, Wi-Fi or USB cable
See website for details.
$
3D PRINTING
99 95
$50
WORTH OF
FILAMENT
15 ea95
$
600A TRUE RMS AC/DC
$
250g roll of 1.75mm
PLA Filament to suit
above 3D printer.
Available in 7
various colours.
See website for details.
See T&Cs for product list.
149
$
$
1000A TRUE RMS AC/DC
QM-1634
• Cat III, 6000 display count
• AC/DC Voltage: 750V/1000V
• AC/DC Current: 1000A/1000A
See website for details.
14 95
$
SELF-POWERED
LED VOLTMETER QP-5581
Super simple to install, these units connect
straight up, with no fuss! Suitable for use
between 4.5V and 30VDC.
• Red colour display
READ THE FULL ARTICLE:
jaycar.com.au/3dprinting
44 95
DIY 3D PRINTING BOOK BM-7122
This book will guide you to how to
operate powerful, free software
from Autodesk and bring your
creations to life with the MakerBot
- a leading consumer printer. Fun
projects, easy-to-follow instructions,
and clear screenshots.
• Soft cover, 302 pages
PLA FILAMENTS
FOR 3D PRINTERS
QM-1632
• Cat III, 4000 display count
• AC/DC Voltage: 600V/600V
• AC/DC Current: 600A/600A
3D printing brings your com
puterdesigned objects to life!
3D printers lay down lay
ers of
plastic to build up a totally
threedimensional object.
While capabilities of 3D
printers
vary between models, you
don’t
have to spend a fortune
to get
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stic
filament required to prin
t your
models is relatively inexpe
nsive
too.
69 95
189
$
MINI LASER DISTANCE
METER QM-1626
BLUETOOTH® TRUE RMS DIGITAL
MULTIMETER QM-1578
Easily measure distance up to 20m
with an accurancy of just 1.5mm!
• Metric or imperial
• Area and volume calculations
• Weatherproof IP54 case
Full autoranging and math functions. Bluetooth®
features provides a host of advanced monitoring
and data logging functionality without fuss.
• Cat IV 600V, 6000 display count
• IP67 waterproof case
14 95
$
MAGNETIC PICKUP TOOL TH-1864
A must for any workbench or toolbox. This
device has a claw and magnet on the end so
you can work it into the strangest of places.
• Flexible spring steel shaft
• LED illumination
14 95
19 95
$
$
8W USB POWERED
SOLDERING IRON TS-1532
3-30VDC TESTER WITH VOLTAGE/
POLARITY READOUT QP-2216
Heats up in under 15 seconds and cools
down in under 30 seconds. Long-life tip with
protective cap. Automatic shutoff.
• Tip Temperature: 380°C-400°C
Provides an accurate voltage readout as well
as polarity check. Works on 6/12/24V systems.
Stainless steel testing probe.
• LED Indicators: Green (-), Red (+)
• Working Voltage Range: 3V-30V (±0.3V Accuracy)
Buy Online, Click & Collect In Store.
Catalogue Sale 24 July - 23 August, 2018
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
Maker Hardware
4
$ 95
5
5
$ 95
Soil Moisture
Sensor
Module
XC-4604
Love electronics and love gardening?
Automate your garden and use this
module to detect when your plants
need watering.
• Analogue output
• Current less than 20mA
$ 95
PHOTOSENSITIVE LDR
SENSOR MODULE XC-4446
Provides simple way to measure
temperature. The module outputs an
analogue voltage that varies directly with
temperature. Connect it straight to one of
your Duinotech analogue inputs. Max 100°C.
• 21cm breakout cable included
Measures light levels.
Connect it straight into your Arduino®
board to build a night/day sensor, etc.
• Includes breakout cable
6
7
$ 95
24 95
$ 95
DIGITAL TEMPERATURE
SENSOR MODULE XC-3700
RAIN SENSOR MODULE XC-4603
Add another dimension to your
Arduino® weather project. This
Provides up to 12 bits of resolution
compact module can be used to
and 0.5° accuracy through a single digital
IO pin. Multiple devices can even be connected detect rain, and can be separated
into a sensor and control board.
to the same pin.
$
Raspberry Pi
Compatible
9
$ 95
19 95
$
Arduino
Compatible
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR MODULE XC-4494
$
SOIL MOISTURE METER:
jaycar.com.au/
soil-moisture-meter
We love making things as much
as you do. Get started, or add
to your collection of Arduino
and Raspberry Pi compatible
hardware, and build
something new!
ALCOHOL
SENSOR MODULE XC-4540
Detects alcohol, smoke and other
volatile substances. Check for gas leaks,
use it as a smoke detector, or build your
own breath analyser.
29 95
$
29 95
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE
SENSOR MODULE XC-3702
ULTRAVIOLET
SENSOR MODULE XC-4518
NON-CONTACT
IR SENSOR MODULE XC-3704
Forecast the weather and
measure altitude. Includes a
temperature sensor, and is
accessible via an I2C interface.
Measures UV exposure from the
sun, or even check that your UV steriliser or
EPROM eraser are working correctly.
• Response wavelength 200-370nm
Add non-contact temperature
sensing to your Arduino® project. Accurate
to half a degree in ambient conditions, it
offers ±40° field of view.
• I2C interface
$
29 95
$
59 95
$
69 95
PROGRAMMING ARDUINO® BM-7133
PROGRAMMING THE RASPBERRY PI
PYTHON PROGRAMMING AND GUIS
C PROGRAMMING WITH ARDUINO
Entry level book. Introduces you to the
Arduino® programming language (called
C). Describes the basic configurations
of Arduino® modules. Finishing with a
discussion on C++ and more sophisticated
applications.
• Soft cover, 162 pages
BM-7160
This book is a great introduction to Python.
There is excellent library support for the
Pi’s hardware. Includes a comprehensive
language guide, graphical interface creation,
games, hardware interfacing and even a
robot project.
• Soft cover, 188 pages
BT-1380
This book is aimed at engineers, scientists
and hobbyists who want to interface PCs
with hardware projects using graphic user
interfaces. Covers both desktop and web
based applications.
• Soft cover, 224 pages
BT-1388
Learn this standard language to program
microcontrollers. Arduino® is the hardware
platform used to teach the C programming
language as Arduino® boards are available
worldwide and contain the popular AVR
microcontrollers from Atmel.
• Soft cover, 343 pages
14 95
$
$
LOGIC PROBE KIT KD-6100
REFER: DIYODE MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2017
This logic probe will help you diagnose and troubleshoot
your 3.3V or 5V circuits, including your Arduino® and
Raspberry Pi projects. It indicates a logic low or logic high
state on the green and red LEDs, and shows a shift between
states on the orange LED. Kit supplied with double-sided
screen printed PCB and specified parts.
50
24 95
DIGITAL
MULTIMETER KIT
KG-9250
Learn everything about
component recognition
and basic electronics with this comprehensive kit. Kit
includes DMM case, LCD, solder, battery, test leads, PCB,
comprehensive 18 page manual and components.
Follow us at facebook.com/jaycarelectronics
$
33 95
USB PORT VOLTAGE CHECKER KIT KC-5522
REFER: SILICON CHIP MAGAZINE JULY 2013
An easy way to test a USB port to see if it is dead, faulty or
incorrectly wired to help prevent damaging a valuable USB
device you plan to connect. Kit supplied with double sided,
soldermasked and screen-printed PCB with SMDs presoldered, clear heatshrink, USB connectors and components
for USB 2.0 & USB 3.0.
Catalogue Sale 24 July - 23 August, 2018
Arduino® Project Of The Month
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS AT:
jaycar.com.au/wifi-signal-meter
Wi-Fi
Signal Meter:
Build this handy little meter to see what Wi-Fi
networks are around and their strength so you can see
how far your network reaches. This is an upgraded
version of our earlier Wi-Fi scanner project but this
unit is even smaller and cheaper. It runs off 2 x AA
batteries in a switched compartment.
VALUED AT
$58.25
SKILL LEVEL: BEGINNER
TOOLS: SOLDERING IRON, MOUNTING SCREWS & SOLID-CORE WIRER
NERD PERKS CLUB OFFER
BUY ALL FOR
WHAT YOU NEED:
$
MONOCHROME OLED DISPLAY MODULE XC-4384 $29.95
WI-FI MINI ESP8266 MAIN BOARD
XC-3802 $24.95
2 X AA BATTERY ENCLOSURE
PH-9280 $3.35
3995
SAVE 30%
SEE OTHER PROJECTS AT:
www.jaycar.com.au/arduino
Don't Forget Your Essentials:
ABS Project
Boxes:
Jaycar has a wide range of
enclosures suitable for various
applications. Listed are some of
our popular sellers.
4
$ 50
12 95
$
ARDUINO STACKABLE HEADER
ATMEGA 328P IC ZZ-8727
Build your very own customised Arduino®
HM-3208
compatible projects. Comes with Uno
Build a stackable shield, or make your
current shield stackable. Includes: 1 × 10-pin, bootloader and 16MHz crystal oscillator.
2 × 8-pin, 1 x 6-pin, 1 x 2x3-pin (for ICSP).
FROM
6
$ 95
JUMPER LEAD KITS
Ideal for connecting devices for testing.
10 leads supplied.
STANDARD WC-6010 $6.95
HEAVY DUTY WC-6020 $11.95
14 95
$
19 95
$
RGB 8X8 LED MATRIX ZD-1810
Full RGB 8x8 Matrix controlled through 32 pins
(8 + 8 x 3). Flush edges for creating extended
displays. Matte black background measuring
60mm x 60mm. 192 LEDs in 64 pixels
$
34 95
ea
1L PCB WASH DEFLUXING
SOLUTION NA-1070
FLEXIBLE LIGHT DUTY
HOOK-UP WIRE - PK 8 WH-3009
Removes flux and residue
from circuit boards to provide
an extremely clean and contaminant
free surface. Non-flammable
• Water- based (biodegradable)
Quality 13 x 0.12mm tinned hook-up wire
on plastic spools. 8 rolls of different colour
included. 25m on each roll.
FROM
2
$ 95
HB-6015
ABS JIFFY BOXES
Compliant with industry standards
externally and PCB fitting internally.
Black/grey colour option.
• PCB guides include snap-in locators
• Supplied with lid fixing screws and
safety concealment plugs
See website for full range.
FROM
5
$ 95
HB-6120
IP65 SEALED ABS ENCLOSURES
3
$ 75
IC EXTRACTOR TH-1818
One piece metal construction. 8 - 40 pins.
4
$ 95
9
$ 95
ARTWORK KNIFE HG-9955
PEARL CATCH TH-1842
Light duty with safety cap. Ideal for fine angle Handy tool when you need to pick up small
cuts, etching, hollowing, scoring, scraping,
fiddly bits and pieces.
scribing, stripping and trimming.
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
See terms & conditions on page 8.
Designed to IP65 of IEC529 and NEMS 4.
Moulded in dark grey.
• Lid fixing screws are M-4 stainless
steel (non-magnetic) into threaded
brass inserts
• Some sizes available with flange mount
See website for full range.
51
Testers, Meters & Detectors
FREE 50ml Buffer Solution
Non-Contact Thermometers:
(QM-1671) WORTH $8.95
With every purchase of QM-1670.
QM-1670
Safely measure temperature in hard to reach places, hot or
hazardous areas. Backlit LCD. Built-in laser pointer.
$
NOW
64 95
$
HAND HELD PH METER
59 95
8:1 SPOT QM-7215
• Economy
• 3 Digit display
• 8:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Temp range -30 to 260°C
• 131mm long
$
34
139
$
12:1 SPOT QM-7221
• Dual laser targeting
• 3.5 Digit display
• 12:1 Distance to spot ratio
• Temp range: -50 to +650°C
• 146mm long
95
$
POCKET MOISTURE METER
24
49
249
30:1 SPOT QM-7226
• Professional high
temperature
• 4.5 Digit display
• 30:1 distance to spot ratio
• Temp range: -50 to 1000°C
• 230mm long
95
MICRO SOUND
LEVEL METER QM-1591
QP-2310
Measure water content in
building materials and wooden
fibre articles.
• Range: Wood: 6 to 44%,
Material: 0.2 to 2.0%
$
$
A-weighted for the frequency
range of human hearing.
Fast response time.
• Range: 40 - 130dB
95
$
CAT III NON-CONTACT
AC VOLTAGE DETECTOR QP-2268
Detects AC voltages from 200 to 1000V. The
unit will glow green when safe, and flash
red and beep when voltage is detected.
• LED flashlight function
• 158(L) x 23(D)mm
39
$
SOLAR
POWER METER
QM-1582 WAS $129
Optimises solar panel installations by
finding optimum locations for the panels.
Expressed as Watts per square metre (W/
m²), or British thermal units per square
foot (BTU/ft²). Includes carry case.
• 0-1999W/m², 634BTU/ft² range
• 3 x AAA batteries (included)
QM-1671
$
QM-1670
Simple and accurate device
for checking pH levels in
water. Great for keeping
your fish tank at the proper
pH level.
• 1-14 pH range
• ±0.2 pH accuracy
• 1 x 9V battery & buffer
solution included
BUFFER SOLUTION TO SUIT
QM-1671 $8.95
99
SAVE $30
59 95
$
59 95
3-IN-1 STUD DETECTOR
WITH LASER LEVEL
DIGITAL
LIGHTMETER
QP-2288
Detects wood, metal and
live wire. Features a built-in
laser level, rotating across
180° to ensure you're at the
right angle. Layout and stud
locating on vertical and
horizontal surfaces.
QM-1587
Handy meter
for lab work,
architectural, engineering and construction.
4 ranges from 0.01 to 50,000 Lux.
• 3.5 Digit LCD display
• 200,2000,20000, 50000 Lux/Fc
$
95
NOW
39 95
$
SAVE $10
NOW
69 95
SAVE $10
PANEL/SURFACE
MOUNT LED VOLTMETER
AND AMPMETER QP-5584
12V VOLTAGE,
ALTERNATOR & TEMPERATURE
DISPLAY XC-0117 WAS $49.95
DIGITAL TACHOMETER
Easily monitor your vehicles battery
voltage and current draw. Connection is
via spade terminals. 5-30VDC.
Plugs into your car's cigarette lighter
socket to display battery voltage and
inside temperature. Celsius or Fahrenheit
temperature display.
QM-1448 WAS $79.95
Measures up to 99,999 RPM and features
a large LCD display, laser pointer, low
battery indicator, memory recall and more.
Supplied with carry case.
• Detection distance: 50 to 500mm
VDE Approved Insulated Tools:
Jaycar's range of VDE tools are manufactured from high quality tool steel to meet the highest standard for electrical safety and mechanical
strength suitable for electrical works. TUV & GS approved. Rated up to 1000V. Wide range & sizes available for any application.
FROM
FROM
5
5
SLOTTED
2.5MM TIP, 75MM LONG
TD-2230 $5.50
3.0MM TIP, 100MM LONG
TD-2231 $5.95
5.5MM TIP, 125MM LONG
TD-2232 $6.95
6.5MM TIP, 150MM LONG
TD-2233 $7.95
8.0MM TIP, 175MM LONG
TD-2234 $9.95
52
PHILLIPS
SIZE 0 X 60MM LONG
TD-2235 $5.95
SIZE 1 X 80MM LONG
TD-2236 $6.95
SIZE 2 X 100MM LONG
TD-2237 $7.95
TD-2235
$ 95
TD-2230
$ 50
$
34 95
$
7 PIECE
SCREWDRIVER SET TD-2022
8 PIECE SCREWDRIVER AND TOOL SET
Durable, fully insulated screwdriver set for electrical work.
• Slotted sizes 2.5mm, 4mm, 5.5mm & 6.5mm
• Phillips sizes #0, #1, and #2
Follow us at facebook.com/jaycarelectronics
59 95
TD-2031
Features quality rubber-moulded insulation
for in-hand comfort. Includes two Phillips,
two slotted, long nose pliers, side cutters,
mains test-lamp, and a small roll of PVC
electrical tape. Insulated right to the tips.
Catalogue Sale 24 July - 23 August, 2018
It’s Worth Every Buck!
High-End Equipment
For Your Workbench:
These handpicked professional quality tools and equipment are essential for the serious tech workbench.
We know they are expensive BUT you get professional grade equipment packed with great features and built to last.
BONUS
$100
WORTH OF
FILAMENT
WAS $379
$
299
SAVE $80
SERIOUS ABOUT SOLDERING?
50W 240VAC Curie Heat
Technology Soldering Station
TS-1584
Conventional soldering stations normally use a feedback circuit mechanism to control the
soldering iron tip temperature, whereas a ‘curie point’ temperature controlled soldering
iron utilises the natural properties of the soldering iron tip material to maintain a constant
controlled temperature level, the tip is heated by RF induction to bring the tip up to
operating temperature.
Curie Point heating technology offers many advantages over conventional methods such
as high control of tip temperature, tip temperature does not overshoot the Curie point
temperature point during tip temperature recovery. This results in a safe, reliable and
professional outcome with less risk of damage to sensitive electronic components.
Rapid response 470kHz Curie heating technology
Includes K-series 0.5mm conical tip
ALSO
Low power idle
AVAILABLE:
SPARE TIPS
Under 10 second heat-up
WITH HEATING
Rapid recovery from soldering load. No overshoot
ELEMENT
No calibration needed
FROM $29.95
ESD rated
Can work leaded and unleaded solder
1599
$
BRING
YOUR IDEAS TO LIFE
Full Function
Dual Filament 3D Printer
TL-4230
Creating professional stunning 3D objects has never been easier. Features that were
only available in high-end industrial 3D printers costing tens of thousands of dollars,
are now available at a fraction of the cost in the FlashForge Inventor 3D printer.
The Inventor is a filament-based 3D printer with a totally-enclosed design that
is safe to use indoors and around children. It features a stunning 50micron print
resolution for a high-quality finish to your prints. Five cooling fans are equipped with
a temperature activated sensor that regulates the build chamber temperatures.
You can print using ABS and PLA filaments, as well as flexible or composite
materials. In the event of a power outage during a print job, the Inventor will
automatically resume the printing once power is restored with no loss of quality.
The Inventor features a built-in camera so you can monitor the progress of your
prints remotely. Simply download and connect to the mobile app to see your design
come to life.
Support dual-colour and dual-material printing
Intelligent temperature controlling / resume printing / remote monitoring
As the item is huge, this is not available in all stores but we can easily get one for you.
Please call your nearest store to check stock availability.
THE ULTIMATE TOOL
FOR THE ELECTRONICS PRO OR SERIOUS ENTHUSIAST
100MHz Dual Channel Oscilloscope
with Digital Storage
WAS $899
799
$
SAVE $100
QC-1936
Compact, lightweight yet packs all the features to give you the edge in advanced
electronics circuit design and trouble-shooting. Capabilities that are just not possible
with standard test tools or the older analogue oscilloscopes, are now at your fingertips!
Eliminate random noise to better analyse the input signal
Capture single-shot events
Triggering on a pulse width, video signal fields and video lines,
use the overtime trigger to measure a long pulse signal
Measure data propagation delay
Use math functions to analyse waveforms
... AND WAIT THERE'S MORE - IT HAS A BUILT IN WAVEFORM GENERATOR!
You can edit the arbitrary waveform or choose the regular waveforms such as Sine,
Ramp, Square, Trapezia, DC, Exponent, AM/FM. Connect a storage drive and all
measurements will be logged and saved to the external data storage.
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
See terms & conditions on page 8.
53
Workbench Essentials:
There has been an obvious resurgence in people getting back to the workbench and
reviving skills involving manual dexterity. As you will see across the following pages,
Jaycar has all the DIY tools you'll need to equip your workbench so you can create
projects from the power of your brain and your hands.
1
1. PORTABLE LABORATORY
POWER SUPPLY MP-3844 NEW
• Adjustable from 0.3V to 30V at up to
3.75A
• 50W max. continuous power
• Digital controls and a large display
• Work in constant voltage
and current limiting modes
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4
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249
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3. TRUE RMS INDUCTANCE/
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• Cat IV 600V, 2000 display count
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hold, diode test, auto power off
2
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Irons:
$
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59 95
PORTASOL® TECHNIC TS-1305
• Adjustable tip temperature up to 450°C
• 10-60W Equivalent electrical power
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• Flint ignitor in end cap
• 170mm long
$
99 95
24 95
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With every purchase of TD-2038.
$
6. 65W TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED
SOLDERING STATION TS-1440 WAS $299
• Japanese manufactured with excellent
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14
• Adjustable tip temperature up to 580°C
• 15-75W Equivalent electrical power
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FREE Hex Driver
5. DIGITAL VERNIER CALIPERS TD-2082
• Stainless steel. 5-digit LCD.
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100 PIECE DRIVER
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$
PORTASOL® PRO PIEZO TS-1310
2. BENCH VICE TH-1766 WAS $39.95
• Made from hard-wearing
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4. DESK MOUNT LED LABORATORY
MAGNIFIER LAMP QM-3546 WAS $84
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95
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10 PIECE NEEDLE FILE
KIT TD-2128
10 PIECE SPANNER SET TH-1910
Set of open end/ring combination.
Suitable for light hobbyist use.
All have integrated plastic
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storage wallet.
• Each is 162mm long
31 PIECE MINI TAP & DIE SET
TD-2443 WAS $74.95
Consists of 9 metric screw cutting dies and
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119
$
$
PORTASOL® SUPER PRO TS-1320
• Adjustable tip temperature up to 580°C
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54
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SOLDER FLUX PASTE
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SOLDER SILVER NS-3045
5 times stronger than regular solder and
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Provides superior fluxing and 100% lead free. Will join all metals excluding
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reduce solder waste.
• 14g solder with 14g flux
• 56g tub
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TS-1580
Designed to remove dangerous
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use in production lines, service centres, R&D
workbenches or the hobbyist.
• 260(h) x 200(W) x 170(D)mm
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55
What's New:
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TECH TALK:
USB Type-C Power Delivery
USB Power Delivery is a charging protocol that uses high speed USB-C
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• Includes a 1m USB Type-C cable
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5W PORTABLE LED WORK LIGHT
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WINDOW & DOOR
ENTRY ALARM - PK 2 LA-5206
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WIRELESS DRIVEWAY &
ENTRY PIR ALERT KIT LA-5178
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USB TYPE-C TO 3.5MM
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MP-3091
Highly efficient & reliable for testing and
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Quick and easy headphone connection for
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Compatible with iOS™ 8.0+ and Android 4.4+
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Savings off Original RRP. Prices and special offers are valid from Catalogue Sale 24 July - 23 August, 2018.
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Roped into fixing a friend's dishwasher
Dishwashers are ostensibly quite simple
mechanical appliances with pumps, solenoids,
a timer and a little thing called a “wax motor”.
What's a wax motor? I hear you ask? I didn't
know the answer either and this was my
introduction to fixing a friend's dishwasher.
Fortunately, I did not have to fix it before we
had dinner.
I was invited to the dinner by an engineer acquaintance I hadn’t seen for a
while, which was a pleasant surprise.
Over dinner, the conversation veered
toward work. Then my host asked if
I knew anything about dishwashers.
Sensing the loaded question, I informed him that I didn’t know much
about them, never having had one apart.
When I asked the reason, he told
me his dishwasher was just out of
warranty (of course) and had started
misbehaving. The powder dispenser
was no longer opening, meaning the
wash cycle was completing without
any powder or rinse-aid being introduced. Could I perhaps take a look?
I wonder if mechanics who visit their friends get asked to replace
a leaky head gasket after dinner. Or
whether doctors out for a nice evening of food and wine with acquaintances end up getting roped into doing a quick surgical procedure on the
dinner table. But I digress...
I had a quick look at the dishwasher,
checking the patently obvious, ie, that
the powder/tablet dispenser’s door
could indeed open and close freely.
Beyond that, we were into (for me at
least) a technical grey area.
While I’d have thought nothing of
opening the appliance up there and
then, some serious shade was being
thrown my way by the other half, reminding me that we’d come for dinner, not to work!
I arranged a time to go and have a
proper look, secretly relieved as I never did like going into anything blind,
especially with someone looking over
my shoulder.
siliconchip.com.au
At least I’d now have time to look
into dishwasher operations and potential problems and solutions before
committing to a repair.
Dishwashers for dummies
These appliances turn out to be a
very simple idea cleverly implemented. Essentially, they are just a watertight box with trays that hold dishes
at different levels while heated water
is sprayed around by (usually) waterpressure powered rotary nozzles.
At a certain time in the wash cycle, the powder drawer is opened
and the cleaning agents are introduced. There is then
a rinse cycle or two
– with or without rinse-aid
added – be-
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Dishwashers for dummies
Ants on the drive
Earth leakage fault
Heat pump repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
fore the water is pumped away and the
dishes gradually dry off in the warmed
cupboard.
Some models may also automatically pop the door ajar during the final,
drying phase to aid moisture evaporation; some also use ultra-violet light as
an anti-bacterial "sterilisation" feature.
While that all sounds pretty straightforward, as with all appliances there
are many potential things to go wrong.
Leaks, blockages or electrical-mechanical faults can cause mayhem if the cycle gets out of whack.
August 2018 57
In a worst-case scenario, we could
end up with a shed-load of water all
over the kitchen floor, something I can
tell you from experience is what you
don’t want happening.
The majority of my kitchen furniture is made from melamine-coated
particle board and while the sides and
edge-banded areas may be watertight,
the bare edges of all the cabinets sitting on the floor act like a sponge to
any moisture they are exposed to, so
a few centimetres of standing water
doesn’t do them much good!
If exposed to too much moisture,
the edges swell up like the half a digestive biscuit I always drop into my
mug of tea, causing drawers and cupboard doors to stick and, in more serious cases, entire cabinets to sag and
bow. I know this because it happened
to us and repairing that kind of damage is difficult and expensive.
Modern dishwashers utilise various sensors and onboard computers
to control all the various functions,
while some older or less-expensive
types use mechanically-operated timers and actuators instead.
Some early models used bi-metallic
strips to regulate water flow or open
the dispenser when the right water
temperature was encountered, while
newer or more sophisticated units
use electronic temperature sensors or
electrical and thermally-operated solenoids called “wax motors” to achieve
the same thing.
Other older types used mechanical
timers to pop the powder drawer at a
certain point in the cycle so there is
plenty of scope for variety.
The meat of the repair
The dishwasher in question, a Haier
branded unit, is regarded as a basic but
usually reliable unit if internet chatter is to be believed. This model has
a very simple control panel: an on/off
pushbutton, a half-load button and a
single dial on the right-hand side for
different cycle settings; no fancy bells
and whistles to complicate things (or
go wrong!).
According to my research, it utilises
a wax motor drawer-release mechanism and the problem was most likely
to be the heating coil for the wax motor going open-circuit (more on this
below). If not that, there is likely some
mechanical reason for the drawer not
opening. The only way to know for
sure was to open the thing up and get
58
Silicon Chip
probing with a set of eyeballs and a
multimeter.
Thankfully, this dishwasher manufacturer has its act together and everything to do with working on this unit
was a breeze. For starters, getting it out
was easy; the rear two support rollers slot into corresponding locating/
holding clips that are screwed to the
floor, while the front is supported by
wheels; an arrangement that prevents
the dishwasher moving around in any
direction once installed.
Grabbing the edges of the closed
door and pulling straight out was all it
took to roll the unit clear of the bench
cavity. The power cable was plugged
into a socket located on the wall up
behind the unit, while the water and
waste hoses fed through a sizeable hole
in the adjacent cabinet wall. There was
plenty of slack in all the leads and
hoses and getting behind it to disconnect or unplug them was no problem.
I removed the power plug but left
everything else in place; no point
tempting fate by needlessly disconnecting hoses and potentially introducing leaks if I didn’t have to.
There were no visible screws on the
outside of the cabinet but upon opening the door I could see everything I
might need to undo was easily accessible from the inside and along the edges
of the chassis. Hopefully it wouldn’t
come to that, but either way the door
front would have to come apart, as that
is where the powder-drawer dispenser
and actuator lives.
Like most white-ware, the thin steel
panels are held to the main frame using medium-to-large PK-style countersunk screws. The coarse thread pattern
on these fasteners is excellent for this
type of sheet-metal joinery. However,
due to their size and the screwdrivers
typically used to fit the screw heads,
they are very easy to over-torque during re-assembly.
This often leads to servicemen finding oddball-sized screws utilised,
as the original’s mounting holes are
stripped and ever-bigger fasteners are
used by over-enthusiastic re-assemblers. I’ve even found the odd large
wood-screw holding fridges or oven
panels together! Thankfully, it appeared I was the first serviceman into
this appliance, so no mismatched
screws to deal with here.
Half a dozen removed screws later,
the faux-enamelled front panel fell
away from the pressed-steel interior
Australia’s electronics magazine
door section and sprung, tubular-steel
support frame, revealing some very
non-technical components.
Getting down to nuts & bolts
There were several sound and vibration-deadening carpet swatches stuffed into cavities, a couple of
purpose-shaped plastic foam packing pieces and multiple wiring looms
coming from beneath the bottom door
hinge and going off to points (for the
moment) unknown.
One small loom disappeared into
some sound-proofing material about
half-way up the door, to the barelyvisible, injection-moulded plastic dispenser assembly. While this was mostly buried in foam packing, I spotted the
wax motor mounted on the left-hand
side of the dispenser.
According to Wikipedia, a wax motor is “a linear actuator device that converts thermal energy into mechanical
energy by exploiting the phase-change
behaviour of waxes.”
It apparently contains a small tube
packed with wax and a piston; heating the tube at a certain time into the
wash cycle, usually electrically via a
thermistor, causes the wax to gradually
expand, forcing the piston to extend,
which pushes on a plastic bell-crank
and, via a lever arrangement, disengages a sear which then allows the
powder drawer to spring open.
It is a simple yet effective method
of opening the dispenser. In some
models, a secondary actuator allows
rinse-aid to enter the cabinet during
the rinse cycle.
The powder drawer itself sits opposite the wax motor assembly on the
other side (inside) of the door panel
and a rubber seal keeps any water from
entering the door cavity. As the drawer is opened by a spring and manually
shut once the powder or pellet is added, it doesn’t take much to release the
retaining sear and pop it open.
Once open, the drawer is usually
stopped by and rests under the top
dish tray, a position that helps guide
water into the dispenser to ensure
all the powder and/or rinse-aid is
washed out.
On many dishwashers, when you
open the door to remove the dishes,
you hear the dispenser door flick open
all the way, a somewhat disconcerting
sound if you haven’t heard it before.
However, in this case, the drawer
remained closed. Testing it in-situ
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August 2018 59
24 x 7 Support
would be a problem, as running the
appliance through a wash cycle is
both time-consuming and inconvenient, especially since I had the covers
off and it was sitting in the middle of
the kitchen floor.
What I needed to do was to see if
I could measure the resistance of the
thermistor which heated the wax to operate the wax motor; this would at least
tell me if the thing was still electrically
alive. If it was, the problem could lie
with the wiring, the controller board
or something mechanical.
I removed the leads from the motor
terminals and with my trusty analog
multimeter set to the 10W range, I
placed one probe on each of the terminals.
I measured roughly 2kW, which
according to Google (such a clever
chap!) is about average. I wasn’t too
concerned with the actual resistance
at this point, as long as it wasn’t at either extreme; I just wanted to know if
the motor had continuity, which it did.
The next step was to see if it actuated and to do that, I’d need to add
power. The problem with this is that
applying mains voltages to an in-place
component using a pair of flying leads
is a bit hairy.
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
which is usually supplied at the right
time in the cycle by the controller
board. For testing, I dialled in 240VAC
(indicated) on my non-Variac branded
variac and waited. After a short time,
the motor’s plunger slowly deployed,
moving the plastic lever system. However, the drawer remained closed.
From what I could see, the lever system didn’t move far enough to trip the
door mechanism. From this, I could
deduce we were likely looking at a
mechanical fault.
I removed mains power and while
the motor was still warm enough, manually moved the solenoid’s plunger
as far as it would go; while some of
the links go off to the rinse-aid dispenser, I could see the bell-crank and
cam arrangement that opens the dispenser door.
The plastic arm that trips the drawer release didn’t move far enough to
open it, though it did if I gave it some
extra help. I took a closer look and
could see the pivot pin on one of the
levers was out of whack. It was either
misaligned from new or slogged out, I
couldn’t tell which. As no individual
plastic parts are available for this dispenser, I would have to fix it if I was
to avoid buying a costly replacement.
The lever popped off easily enough
but it wasn’t repairable using the original pin, so I removed it altogether
and bored the linkage’s moulded pivot point out. I found a suitable cap
screw and self-tapped it well into the
base, tightening it down enough to
hold everything yet allow it to move
freely. Now, when I manipulated the
solenoid, the drawer popped open
every time.
I didn’t bother running another
heated simulation, as I was sure this
would work now. I’d spent a lot of time
on this, and as the owner assured me
he could reassemble everything, I left
him to it.
However, I received a text message
later that night saying that while the
dispenser now worked fine, the dishes were still not as clean as before. I
dropped by the next day to check it
out and discovered that while he’d had
everything apart, he removed the upper and lower rotating spraying arms
in order to better clean them, but had
re-assembled the bottom sprayer with
the holes pointing downwards!
After reversing them, a test wash
cycle proved everything was working
properly. Whew!
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Once bitten, twice shy
Many years ago, I vividly recall my
brother and me, who were just old
enough to get into trouble, messing
about in Dad’s workshop. My brother
had found and wired up a mains plug,
or perhaps just cut and stripped the
leads of an existing cable and plug,
while I watched over his shoulder.
We’d found a bulb after rummaging
amongst Dad’s bits boxes and were
keen to fire it up, the way we’d seen
him do it many times before – or so
we thought. What we had done is inadvertently created what olde-worlde
servicemen – in their typically dry
way – call a “suicide lead” or “death
cord”. In other words, a cord with a
mains plug at one end and bare wires
(or alligator clips) at the other.
I must admit to possessing such a
lead, which is typically used for testing valve-based equipment. But for obvious reasons, it makes me extremely
nervous. My modern version has a
crocodile clip to connect Active and
Neutral to the equipment I’m testing
but as kids back in the workshop, we
just used bare wires and I held the bulb
while we each applied one wire to one
of the bulb’s terminals.
It lit up, albeit extremely briefly
and with the shock of the brilliance
of it, I reacted and touched my lead
to my brother’s. Of course, this splattered and crackled and arced, scaring
the bejeebers out of us and temporarily blinding me as well; a situation
made worse by the fact the workshop
was now plunged into darkness as all
mains power went out.
Yikes! We were in for it now! I envisaged all manner of trouble was about
to befall us and to this day remember
the unusually stern talking to we both
received from Dad. Not only were we
told not to mess about in his workshop
with anything we didn’t understand,
we were especially not to go anywhere
near anything to do with mains-level
voltages.
He then showed us how he powered up bulbs with a battery and encouraged us to experiment with that
but not to mess about with anything
that plugged in.
He also demonstrated how easily
we could have killed ourselves by using his multimeter to demonstrate the
voltage from the mains socket. That
made me paranoid enough to still be
extremely wary of it today.
The moment of truth
I was going to use my suicide lead to
test the wax motor but not with direct
mains voltage. I’d brought my autotransformer along to use with it, and
while the output could still easily kill
me, I made darn sure the connections
to the wax motor were attached properly and well-insulated from anything
else before cranking up the juice.
In order for this wax motor to fully
actuate, it needs around 230-240VAC
Servicing Stories Wanted
60
Silicon Chip
Empire of the ants
J. R., of Woy Woy, NSW, recently
fought a pitched battle with a small
but numerous army of invasive critters which threatened to overheat and
gum up his electronic equipment. He
did not welcome these new insect
overlords and eventually banished
them from his domain. Here is how it
went down...
My "man-cave" is in our garage
which I share with my car. The walls
are bare single brick and although it
gets a bit nippy in the colder months,
the insulated ceiling helps a bit. I have
a desk, workbench and adjustable steel
shelving and I keep it all pretty neat.
We get a few mozzies and the odd
fly in the warmer months but they are
mostly dispatched with a very distinct
zap by my high-voltage bug killer with
UV attracting light. Ants are a different problem though.
Ants need food and shelter and it
seems they like to be warm. Wifey prefers a minimal amount of technological
stuff in the house so I keep my computer gear in the cave, including a couple
of hard drives, the NBN modem and a
router to network the house. Some of
my gear stays on 24/7 and has a nice,
stable temperature which is most attractive to insects, especially ants.
These industrious little beasts never
seem to tire and they are mostly very
good at staying out of sight as they
move about. One day I was happily
working away when a single black ant
sauntered past.
I brushed it to the floor and thought
no more of it until a while later when
I spotted another one that I imagined
might be looking for its mate. I thought
there might be more about so I decided
to look for their source.
I don't use the inbuilt keyboard or
screen on my laptop so it hardly ever
gets moved. I spotted a few more ants
walking along a cable and then disappearing down a gap in the screen's
hinge. Then I saw others leaving by
the same path. Alarm bells were now
ringing in my head and I immediately powered down the laptop and disconnected it.
There were probably a few alarm
bells ringing in the ants' heads too because more appeared from the screen
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hinge and the keyboard. Without closing the screen, I picked up the laptop
and took it outside to an old kitchen
table we use for potting. A quick brush
down of the tabletop and a strategically
placed towel made a good clean work
surface to open up the laptop.
Fortunately, I had a set of tiny Torx
drivers that I bought when I replaced
the hard drive with an SSD. More ants
were now starting to leave their hightech home and found themselves in a
strange, very exposed place.
I undid all the bottom cover screws
with the laptop sitting on the towel
like an A-frame. I did this because I
didn't want to squash any ants – the
acid inside them would affect the components and PCBs.
I removed the bottom panel and saw
what looked like millions of ants, their
eggs and larvae all packed into every
nook and cranny.
With the air now freely moving
around them and the internals cooling
down, it was every ant for itself! They
were swarming all over the table, with
many of them carrying an egg or larva.
I did not use any insect spray. I
quickly set up an old vacuum cleaner
I use in the garage and sucked most
of them up. It took over an hour before they stopped appearing. I wish I
had taken pictures whilst all this was
happening and still can't believe how
tightly packed they were.
What is more amazing is that there
was zero impact on the computer – it
had continued to function perfectly,
with no overheating or errors at all!
The ants must have been occupying
my laptop for days or maybe weeks before I spotted a couple of their scouts.
Australia’s electronics magazine
I left the laptop out in the open for
another hour or so to give the last stragglers time to leave. Once it was apparently emptied of ants, I removed everything that could be removed and found
a few dozen more here and there. Some
compressed air blew out a few more
ants and eggs and eventually, I was satisfied that they were all gone.
I cleaned every surface I could with
a cloth very lightly soaked in CRC 2-26.
It is my weapon of choice against corrosion, moisture and electrical leakage and I feel sure the odour and the
oily film would discourage future ant
incursions. It doesn't go gooey either.
The only visible clue I could see left
behind by the ants were white marks
in tight places where the eggs had been
and some CRC 2-26 on a cotton bud
removed them almost totally. I left the
laptop on my workbench overnight
and reassembled it the next day. It
has been working perfectly ever since.
But this story does not end here. A
few weeks later I again noticed an ant
on my desk. My response was swift. I
whipped the laptop out of action and
checked it thoroughly, but no ants, not
even one – CRC 2-26 in action!
Nervously, I unplugged each item
one by one and moved them outside.
I saw no ants until I unplugged one
of my hard drives and lifted it up to
reveal a rectangular carpet of ants underneath. Yikes, not again!
Outside went the hard drive, onto
the table, to wait for the ants to depart of their own accord. Back inside I
quickly fired up the vacuum cleaner to
suck up all the ants now running every
which way on my desk. How had they
been getting to the drive?
August 2018 61
Well, the desk the drives are on is
screwed to the wall with a dress strip
making a nice dark tunnel out of the
mortar line and delivering the ants to
the hard drive. That strip is now gone.
I went back out to inspect the hard
drive and only a few ants were exploring the tabletop. I peered into the
drive's cooling vents and could see
ants, ants, and more ants! This time
they were not leaving, so using a few
impromptu spudging tools made from
scraps of fibreglass PCB and a screwdriver or two, I was able to carefully
remove the case without stirring up
the ants.
This time I took a couple of pictures
too (as shown above). It was the same
story as the laptop when it was opened
– legions of ants with their eggs and
larvae were now swarming all over
the table and the vacuum cleaner did
good once again.
It was then a simple matter to unclip
and remove a metal shield to inspect
around the hard drive and unplug the
tiny controller PCB. Hard drives have
dust-proof construction so no ants
could get into the mechanism. As before, compressed air removed the remaining eggs and CRC 2-26 was used
to clean up all contaminated surfaces
and generally protect everything.
Reassembly the next day was easy.
On testing the hard drive, I was relieved that the ants had caused no
damage and the drive has been running 24/7 ever since.
You may think that was the end of
it – no way!
62
Silicon Chip
Days later, more ants were observed
in the man-cave, just wandering about
looking for their next warm abode.
An extensive search eventually
found millions more living in the extruded aluminium frame of my one
and only window, right behind my
desk, with a few hundred extra ants
and eggs crammed into the little homemade headphone switch box which is
screwed to the side of my desk.
I tried various surface sprays in and
on the window frame and many days
and dead ants later, they were still in
evidence. Good grief, what does it take
to get rid of them? I don't like the idea
of long-lasting toxic chemicals being
sprayed copiously where I spend a fair
bit of my time.
After some trial and error, I eventually found that a Permethrin-based ant
and wasp powder in a puffer pack was
very effective and the safest way to go
(Permethrin is a synthetic version of
natural Pyrethrin). Result – no more
ants – yay!
An earth leakage fault
in the house
One morning, B. P.’s wife turned
on the light switch but nothing happened. He thought it was probably just
the globe that had failed but then another light could not be switched on...
The household appliances were still
operating, displaying clocks and so
on, so it obviously wasn’t a blackout. I
headed over to the laundry where our
sub-board is located to see what was
going on. The safety switch for the light
circuits had tripped. I tried to reset it
but it just tripped again, indicating a
serious earth leakage fault.
We have a modern house and our
electrical installation complies with
the latest Queensland electrical regulations. We have two safety switches,
one for the power circuits and one for
lights. Three power circuits and two
light circuits are protected by the safety switches.
Further investigations indicated
that there was a fault on light circuit
#1, which tripped the safety switch
when on but light circuit #2 did not.
So we could have light in part of the
house for the moment.
The wiring in our entire house had
been checked on three separate occasions by licensed electricians. The
first time was when we had the underground power connected to the
house, the second time was when we
Australia’s electronics magazine
had the solar PVR system installed
and the third time was a safety check
following several electrocutions associated with the installation of foil
insulation in house ceilings. So this
was a new fault.
There was nothing for it but to head
up into the roof space and have a look
around and see if I could see anything.
There's been a lot of activity in our roof
over recent years, with the running of
cables, first for the ABG satellite internet, then the interim NBN satellite
internet, then again for telephone and
network cabling when we got ADSL.
Also, as we'd been unhappy with the
foil insulation that we had installed
(it didn't seem to be effective during
winter) we'd been putting “Earthwool”
insulation under the foil. It had to be
removed and re-installed on all of the
above occasions too.
So, could any of this activity have
caused the problem to occur? It seemed
unlikely as it had been several years
since anyone had done anything in the
roof space. The next thing I thought of
was rats in the roof. It's pretty common
to find rodents in your roof space, so
maybe a rat had eaten through a wire.
As I entered the roof space, I could
see evidence of rodents and nothing
stood out as problematic. However, I
decided to lift the insulation and inspect all the wiring anyway. I could
still find no problems. The wiring was
still in excellent order with no sign of
any damage whatsoever.
At this stage, I decided to give my
mate Ray a call. Ray is a licensed electrician and he lives in town, but he
often works in the Bay. Our place is
between, and as it happened, he was
just about to leave to do some work in
the Bay, so he said he'd call in on his
way past for a quick look.
When he arrived, he brought in his
“megger” and tested the circuit, which
gave a reading of 33kW. That’s way
too low and explained why the safety
switch was tripping. I checked with
my multimeter and I got a similar, but
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higher reading, so we knew that there
was an Active-to-Earth fault somewhere in the #1 light circuit. Now we
just had to find it.
The quest begins
Ray headed off and said he would
call in again on his way home when
he would have a bit of spare time, to
look into the matter further. When he
got back, I suggested that we could start
by disconnecting parts of the circuit
until we found where the fault was.
He agreed so we got started.
The #1 light circuit starts at the subboard and goes to the family room,
kitchen, dining room, lounge room,
entry, en-suite and master bedroom,
with branches going to the end of the
back verandah, the side verandah and
the front verandah. So by disconnecting the wiring along the way, we would
be able to isolate where the fault was.
We started in the family room, where
Ray disconnected the circuit at one of
the lights. This cleared the fault, so the
fault was further on. After reconnecting the wiring there, we moved to the
lounge room and did the same thing.
This again cleared the fault, so we
moved to the en-suite. This time, the
fault was not cleared, so it was between
the lounge room and the en-suite.
We'd skipped over the entry light, so
we headed there and Ray found that
the branch line from the light socket,
which took power to the light switch
near the front door, was where the fault
was. Ray then removed this power
wire at the light switch and tested the
wire, which showed the fault.
So for some reason, the Active wire
from the light socket in the entry to the
light switch near the front door had an
Earth fault. We would need to replace
this cable and I had a cable drum with
about 10m left in my shed. This was
the older-style grey cable with thicker insulation, compared to the newer
white slimline cable, so my left-over
cable would match the original wiring.
We both knew that running this cable would be difficult, so Ray said that
he would leave it with me and he'd call
in again tomorrow afternoon to connect it up, once I'd run it between the
two locations. In the meantime, he left
that branch disconnected, so we would
then have light in all the house except
for the entry and the front verandah.
The next morning, I tied the end of
the new cable to the old cable at the
light switch and went up in the roof
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to pull the cable through, while my
wife fed the cable up from the drum.
Our roof is 22.5° pitch, so while there's
enough room to get to the walls, it's a
tight squeeze.
I managed to get over to the front
wall with the aid of a plank set between the roof trusses which I could
lie on. The first thing I noticed was a
large snakeskin in the area where the
cable ran down the wall but there was
no damage to the cable at this point.
We often find snake skins around
the place. There are times when we
also find the owner of the skin, which
is typically a carpet python, luckily a
harmless type of reptile.
Occasionally, I have had to remove
snakes from the house or the back verandah as my wife doesn't like them
very much for some reason; I don't
have any problems with them, particularly as they help to keep the rodent
population under control. I usually
just re-locate them clear of the house.
Anyway, I pulled the new cable up
and ran it over to the light socket and
poked the end through the ceiling,
ready to be connected. I took the old
cable down with me so that I could
inspect it but initially, I couldn't see
anything obvious.
I'd been expecting to find some severe damage to the cable, but on a
quick glance, it looked like it was still
OK. This indicated that there must be
an internal fault in the cable itself.
I decided to rip the cable open to
look for an internal fault and while I
was doing this, I found the cause of
the problem. Around 10 years ago,
we'd been away for a few weeks and
when we got home, I found that termites had tracked across the front verandah in one of the joints in the concrete and eaten the pine panel under
the front door.
They were despatched quickly, but
in any case, they can't do any structural damage to our house as it has a
steel frame and is on a concrete slab.
It would appear that when these pests
had been present, they had actually
chewed a hole in the cable in the front
wall of the house.
As to why it had taken so long for
this fault to materialise, I suspect it
was because the weather has been exceptionally dry in this area for the last
decade and we'd experienced several
severe droughts during that time.
It's only last year that we've had unseasonal wet weather in spring, with
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 63
very high rainfall and high humidity
levels. In fact, it was mentioned on
the weather report just recently that
this was the wettest spring in decades.
This must have caused any left-over
termite material in the small hole to absorb moisture and become conductive.
When Ray came back to re-connect
the wiring, I showed him the damaged
cable. He was amazed and he said that
he'd never seen anything like it in all
the time he'd been an electrician. I
told Ray that I'd previously seen wiring chewed by rodents, but I'd never
heard of termites attacking electrical
wires before.
Ray finished connecting the wiring
and we once again had all our lights
working. It was fortunate that we know
Ray and we often do favours for each
other, so that saved us quite a bit, compared to if we'd had to pay an electrician to locate and rectify the fault.
If we hadn't had the safety switch in
the circuit, it is possible that the current flowing between the conductors
could have caused it to overheat start
a fire. Fortunately, the safety switch
stopped it before it could escalate.
I had previously been wondering why there was a need for a safety switch on the light circuit, as it
would be difficult for anyone to come
in contact with a live wire, other than
through carelessness when changing
a light globe with the power still on. I
can now see a very good reason for it.
Heat pump repair
Have you ever called in a repair
technician, only to get the feeling that
you know more about troubleshooting
than they do? That must be how M. D.,
of Canberra, ACT, felt while dealing
with multiple parties, none of which
were able to find the fault in the household heating unit. He eventually managed to sort it out himself...
Our house is equipped with a reverse-cycle air-to-water heat pump.
It is a three-phase device with about
12kW heating/cooling capacity. It's
used for hydronic heating and cooling of the concrete slab in our house
and we have several hydronic fan-coil
units for conditioning the indoor air.
The heat pump is an imported Chinese model, rebranded and sold by a
local distributor. It appears to be well
built and has operated reliably for
eight years. But towards the end of
last summer, the unit began to intermittently trip. The system controller
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Silicon Chip
reported “Power phase error”.
Throughout winter, this problem
arose frequently, but unpredictably. At
times, the unit would trip within minutes of starting, while at other times it
would run for many hours without any
problem. When the machine tripped,
it could only be restarted by cycling
mains power at the circuit breaker and
this was becoming tedious.
The electrical design is straightforward. The heat pump compressor is
switched by a contactor and this is
driven by a control PCB. The unit has
several safeguards such as a phase
fail relay, overcurrent protection (in
the contactor) and a system protection mechanism that monitors the heat
pump for faults such as low/high refrigerant pressure and excessive compressor discharge temperature.
Having tired of this fault, I called
the supplier. They suggested that the
heat pump might have lost its refrigerant and to get a heat pump specialist
to take a look at it. However, the lowpressure gauge was reading the correct
pressure during operation. I called a
heat pump technician. By connecting
pressure gauges to the high and lowpressure service ports, he declared the
system to be fine.
I then called an electrician. He
checked phase voltages and currents
and declared all to be in order. Without
any real diagnosis, he thought that the
phase failure relay would need to be
replaced. The phase failure relay trips
the main compressor contactor if the
phase-to-phase voltage is out by 15%
or if the phases are not in sequence.
This was an expensive guess and did
not fix the fault.
The electrician then sought to start
replacing every electrical component
upstream of the heat pump without
further diagnosis. I felt it was time to
take a more considered approach.
I called the supplier again. They
suggested that I bypass the compressor
safety switches to see whether that was
the problem. Although these switches
are low voltage inputs to the controller,
I was not comfortable in operating the
heat pump without these safeguards.
In any case, the heat pump reported a
power system fault.
The user manual is brief and offered
little guidance. As is often the case
with imported units, the English translation is ambiguous. The manual suggests that the heat pump is equipped
with a system protection PCB in adAustralia’s electronics magazine
dition to the main control PCB. The
circuit diagram in the door of the unit
also shows this PCB but it was not present in the hardware!
The error we were getting was supposedly coming from this protection
PCB, so I thought that the error message itself could have been in error.
I subsequently noticed that the
compressor heating band was in poor
condition with exposed wires where
rats had chewed away the insulation.
I disconnected the band, thinking that
it may be the cause of the fault, but the
unit still tripped intermittently.
It seemed to me that the control PCB
was deciding to switch the compressor
contactor off in response to an unexpected reading from some sensor. So
I decided to monitor the low-voltage
signals coming into the controller using a Maximite as a high-speed data
logger. The contactor provided an
auxiliary contact that I used to detect
when the unit tripped.
I monitored the low and high-pressure switches, the over-temperature
switch, the pump flow switch and the
phase failure relay at 20ms intervals.
Having observed several trip events,
I could see nothing that would cause
the unit to trip. I even powered the
control PCB from an external battery
to eliminate any power supply issues.
While checking voltages around the
control PCB, I noticed that the signal
from the over-temperature protection
switch was sitting at around 1V and
was unsteady. This was odd since all
the protection sensors were supposed
to be normally-closed switches. I had
configured the Maximite to read the
switches using digital inputs and so
this had remained undetected.
I reconfigured the Maximite to read
analog voltages and confirmed that the
“switch” was producing a varying voltage as if it had gone high-resistance.
Replacing the over-temperature cutout switch solved the problem. The
replacement cost about $5.
It was unsettling to witness lack
of proper diagnosis by the electrical
technician, the poor support offered
by the supplier and the poor level of
supporting documentation and the
misleading error messages reported
by the machine.
In the end, it turned out that I was
the only person able to properly troubleshoot this system! But it certainly
is a great relief to have heating back in
place for the Canberra winter.
SC
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electronics magazine
August
2018 65
Rosehill Gardens Australia’s
- Sydney
5 - 6 September
2018
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Control your computer with
an infrared remote
control
By Tim Blythman
Don’t have a “Smart TV”? Even if you do,
you may want to connect a computer to your
TV for playing videos, music, games, viewing
photos, web browsing and so on. This is known as
a home theatre PC (HTPC). But operating a keyboard and mouse from the
couch is clumsy. Why not use an infrared remote control for important
functions like play, pause, next track, etc? It’s surprisingly easy to do!
L
ike many tech-savvy people, I have
a computer hooked up to my TV. I
use it mainly for watching DVDs and
YouTube videos on the big screen. I
can even play games or surf the net.
But if I’m sitting back watching a
movie and I want to pause it to get a
drink, I don’t want to fiddle around
with a wireless mouse or keyboard.
I have trouble with my wireless
mouse since its range is only just good
enough to reach from the couch to the
TV, so it doesn’t work reliably. And I
often forget to turn it off after using
it, prematurely flattening its batteries.
An infrared remote control is far
better suited to that sort of task and
you probably already have one (or
many!) at hand, which are likely to
have some spare buttons which you
could re-assign for various purposes.
It’s so much easier to just pick it up
and press a button.
You may already have the parts
needed to build this project. There’s
hardly any assembly required since it
only involves two components. You
can use it with a wide range of remote
controls, including inexpensive generic programmable remotes.
How does it work?
If you’re familiar with the Arduino
Leonardo’s capabilities, you might
You might own a HTPC, like the ASUS PB40, or have built your own to use with
a TV. While useful, it can be a pain to control using traditional means. That's
why we've come up with a way to use a standard IR remote to control it.
66
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
have an inkling as to how we achieve
the computer interface. The Leonardo has a USB interface and it can be
set up to appear, from the computer’s
point of view, as a USB keyboard and/
or mouse. This is also true of other
ATmega32U4-based Arduino boards;
there are a few.
So then we just need to arrange to
receive infrared commands and we
can translate them into keystrokes or
mouse movements/clicks.
The Leonardo remains attached to
the computer’s USB port (you can even
use it with a Raspberry Pi) so it doesn’t
need any external source of power.
The only difficulty is knowing what
codes to expect from the remote control. For this, we can temporarily set
up the Leonardo to tell us what codes
it is receiving. We’ve already done this
with a remote control that’s available
from Jaycar so you can simply use the
codes we provide and get the remote
control up and running in minutes.
It sounds simple, but the devil is
in the detail. What keystrokes do we
need to emulate? And how do we
send them?
Hardware
As we mentioned, we can use pretty
much any ATmega32U4-based Arduino
siliconchip.com.au
allow us to emulate a keyboard (github.
com/arduino-libraries/Keyboard) and
a mouse (github.com/arduino-libraries
/Mouse). The only remaining hard part
is deciding which infrared code corresponds to which action.
With most of the complex function
hidden in the libraries, our software
sketch mainly deals with reading
the codes from the infrared receiver
library and then feeding the appropriate actions to the keyboard and mouse
emulation libraries.
Construction
This remote control from Jaycar
Electronics (XC3718) has 21
keys, each of which generates a
different code based on the NEC IR
protocol. These codes are detected
and converted into keystrokes or
mouse actions.
board, including the “Leonardo” or
the smaller “Leostick” version that’s
available from Jaycar.
If space is at a premium, there is a
variant known as a “Micro”, and an
even smaller (clone) version, which
can be found under the name “Beetle”. The Beetle isn’t much bigger than
most other USB dongles, so should fit
just about anywhere.
A 3-pin IR receiver module can then
be attached to the Arduino board, so
we can now receive the signals from
our remote control.
Software
Fortunately, there are a number of
libraries available that already do most
of the hard work for us. The first one
(IRremote; github.com/z3t0/ArduinoIRremote) is used to receive and decode the infrared signals, giving us a
different code for each button that’s
pressed on the remote control. This
is a great library that can also be used
to transmit infrared signals.
The two other libraries we’re using
The Beetle can
just be plugged
into a USB
type-A port on
a computer,
as is.
siliconchip.com.au
There isn’t much to the hardware
so it makes sense to assemble it first.
The hardware can be used for figuring
out what code is generated by each remote control button, and then re-used
as the actual IR/keyboard/mouse interface. We built two prototypes using
different Arduino modules as follows.
A tiny Beetle
The Arduino Beetle variant is a
minimal ATmega32U4-based board
designed by DFRobot. Although it
hasn’t been around for long, it has
been “cloned” and these clones are
available from many online stores. We
don’t even need to solder the supplied
headers to it. We can simply solder the
infrared receiver straight to the pads
on the board.
When complete, the final unit is
smaller than most USB flash drives.
The infrared receiver’s GND pin is soldered to the GND pad on the PCB, the
Vcc pin to the 5V pad and the DATA
pin to digital input D11. The infrared
receiver library can use any digital pin
as the input but this is the one that we
have chosen.
Most infrared receiver modules
use the same pinout (including those
sold by Jaycar and Altronics) so you
can most likely solder yours as shown
here.
But if you're using a receiver from
a different source, it would be a
There are a few
variants of Arduino
compatible boards
that will work with
this project, like the
ProMicro pictured.
Compatible boards
need to be based on
the ATmega32U4
processor which
has a built-in USB
interface.
good idea to double-check the data
sheet. Looking at the lens from the
front with the leads at the bottom,
the pins from left-to-right are DATA,
GND and Vcc.
If you like, you can carefully twist
the receiver so that it will face the
right way (towards the couch you are
comfortably sitting on) when plugged
into the computer. As long as the
wires don’t touch, you should have
no troubles. Use heatshrink insulation if in doubt.
A larger variant
If you have an Arduino-compatible
Leonardo or Micro board lying around
for prototyping, it is entirely possible
to put this project together without
any soldering. Perhaps you just want
to test out that it does what you want
before assembling something more
permanent.
In that case, we can use an Arduinocompatible module and some jumper
leads to quickly put everything together. It may not be as compact but
if your other family members don’t
mind bits of electronics sitting near
the TV, it will work just as well as the
Beetle version.
We also happened to have an infrared receiver assembly that includes
the actual receiver module plus an
onboard LED. This
This IR receiver module is a
great way to get up and running
quickly. It also has an onboard LED to
indicate when it is receiving a signal. You can
then pair this with the Arduino Leonardo shown
right, an Arduino Micro or similar device.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 67
spreadsheet or other document for use
in our next step. Using a spreadsheet
makes it easy to assign a name to each
code for later reference.
Keep in mind that the buttons you
use on the remote shouldn’t be used
for anything else, even if the TV is in
a different mode.
Otherwise, the TV and computer
might both respond to the same button press, with unexpected results.
Finding out which key codes
to generate
Finding out the codes that an IR
remote control uses is as simple as
opening a spreadsheet program and
loading our “IR_Code_Typer.ino”
sketch, which types the received
codes directly into a spreadsheet.
means that you can easily see if it’s receiving a signal or not.
If using such a module, check the
markings on it to see which pins are
which. They generally have an “S” to
identify the data pin and a “-” for the
ground pin, with the unmarked middle
pin being positive 5V supply.
Run a jumper lead from the “S” pin
to D11 on the Leonardo (we’ve used
blue), “-” to GND (grey) and the middle pin to 5V (violet).
Getting the codes
If you aren’t using the Jaycar remote control, you will need to figure
out which codes are produced by each
button that you intend to use. We’ve
written a brief sketch which looks for
signals from the infrared receiver and
then types that code out on the PC using the emulated keyboard.
You can dump the codes into a
◄
68
Silicon Chip
Having determined what button
you’ve pressed on the infrared remote,
the Arduino code then needs to know
which key or button press to generate
in turn. This will depend on the software that you’re running on the PC.
I use the VLC media player for
watching videos on my HTPC. It’s free
and for the most part, it just works. If
you use a different player, it will probably have a different set of keyboard
shortcuts although most seem to use
the space bar to play/pause. If in doubt,
open your player of choice and mash
away at the keyboard until you find
out what key does what!
The commands that I wanted to use
for VLC are: play/pause, toggle fullscreen mode, skip backwards and forwards. There’s a great guide to all the
shortcut keys at https://wiki.videolan.
org/Hotkeys_table/
The keys I needed are in the first
dozen listed, so this information was
easy to establish.
The Jaycar remote control I used
Wiring diagram for the
Arduino Leonardo version. We
used an IR receiver module for
the Leonardo, which can then
be hooked up via flying leads
or similar.
only has a single play/pause toggle
button, so I had to settle for using the
space key to toggle between play and
pause. Toggling fullscreen involves
simply pressing the “F” letter key.
For skipping forwards and backwards, we have the choice between
very short, short, medium and long
jumps.
According to the application's settings, a short jump is 10 seconds,
which sounds like a good amount and
is accessed using the Alt-Left Arrow
or Alt-Right Arrow key combinations.
Sending keystrokes to a PC
The Arduino keyboard library is
fairly easy to use. For example, to
send the “F” keypress for toggling fullscreen mode, we can simply use this
line of code:
Keyboard.write(‘f’);
It’s almost as though we are printing a character to the serial monitor.
But for key combinations like Alt-Left
Arrow, it’s not quite so easy.
There are two catches here. One is
that we are sending a non-printing key
(ie, the arrow key) and the second is
that we’re sending a key modifier (Alt).
This web page gives an overview
of all the special keys: www.arduino.
cc/en/Reference/KeyboardModifiers
This tells us that to send a Left Arrow keypress, we can use the following code:
Keyboard.write(
KEY_LEFT_ARROW);
◄
Wiring diagram for the smaller
Arduino Beetle remote receiver. The
pins of the IR receiver can just be
inserted directly into the Beetle and
soldered. The DATA pin on the IR
receiver can go to any free digital
pin on the Arduino, but you'll need
to change the software to match
which pin you're using if not D11.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
To send Alt-Left Arrow, we need
to send the computer the correct key
presses and releases in the correct order, with a slight delay, as that is how
the computer is expecting to receive
them (as though a real human was
pressing the keys):
Keyboard.press(KEY_LEFT_ALT);
Keyboard.press(
KEY_LEFT_ARROW);
delay(100);
Keyboard.releaseAll();
This is a bit involved but it gives
us a lot of flexibility. For example,
you could use the following code
sequence to run any Windows program (in this case Notepad) using the
WIN+R shortcut:
Keyboard.press(KEY_LEFT_GUI);
Keyboard.press(‘r’);
delay(100);
Keyboard.releaseAll();
delay(200);
Keyboard.print(“notepad”);
Keyboard.write(KEY_RETURN);
If you’re going to use a sequence like
this, it’s a good idea to test it individually before mapping it to an infrared
remote button and remember that the
computer may respond differently if a
different program has the focus (ie, is
in the foreground) when the sequence
is activated.
For sequences which start with a
press of the “Windows Key”, like the
one immediately above, this should
not be a problem as they are captured
by the operating system, regardless of
which program is in the foreground.
But it it’s also worth testing what happens if a certain keystroke occurs under a different program.
What about the mouse?
As we mentioned, there’s also the
possibility of emulating mouse movements and button presses. If you have
a spare group of five or even nine buttons on the remote control, it’s possible
to use them to move the mouse cursor
around and click.
The library provides two different
functions to control the mouse. The
simplest is:
Mouse.move(x,y);
This simply moves the mouse pointer in the x and y directions by the number of pixels specified. If x is negative,
the pointer moves left and if x is positive, the pointer moves right. Up is
siliconchip.com.au
By changing the value highlighted, we can change which infrared code/button
press the Leonardo responds to. For this line of the sketch, if the current code
matches, a signal is sent to the computer to move the mouse pointer ten pixels to
the right.
To manually install the libraries (rather than using the library manager), unzip
or copy them into the Arduino libraries folder. This can be found by going to the
File → Preferences menu in the Arduino IDE and looking for the "Sketchbook
location", as shown above. The libraries are stored in a subfolder at this location.
negative on the y-axis. To simulate a
left-click, you can use:
Mouse.click();
If you want to click a different button, do it like this:
Mouse.click(MOUSE_RIGHT);
Note that all mouse movements are
relative. You can’t send a command to
move the pointer to a particular position on the screen. If you have to do
this, you might be able to come up with
a scheme where you move the mouse
into one corner of the screen and then
move it relative to that point, but we
won’t go into details as we haven’t
tried it.
In practice, the best way to implement mouse cursor control with an infrared remote is to have a button each
for up, down, left, right and click. Extra buttons, if available, can be used
for diagonal movements.
This makes steering the pointer feel
a bit like playing an old video game
Australia’s electronics magazine
with a joystick but it is fine for some
basic screen navigation, eg, to select
a video to play.
Getting the infrared codes
If you are using the suggested Jaycar
remote control and already have the
Arduino IDE installed, jump ahead to
“Uploading the main sketch”.
If you have an existing remote control you would like to make work, you
will first need to upload the “IR_Code_
Typer” sketch to find out what codes
correspond to what keys.
To compile and upload the software
that runs on the board, we need to have
the Arduino IDE (Integrated Development Environment) installed.
This can be downloaded from www.
arduino.cc/en/main/software for Windows, macOS and Linux.
Download and install a version to
suit your operating system and start
the Arduino IDE. You will need at
least version 1.6.4 to use the Library
Manager in the next step.
August 2018 69
Open the Library Manager by going to the Sketch → Include Library
→ Manage Libraries menu and search
for “irremote”. When you find it, click
on the install option that is presented.
If the Library Manager is not working or not available, you have the option of installing the IRremote.zip library supplied in our download package using the “Add .ZIP Library” option in that same menu.
Now plug the device into a USB port
on the computer and select the board’s
serial port in the Tools → Port menu.
Observe whether the board is seen as
a “Leonardo” or “Micro” and based on
this, select either “Arduino Leonardo”
or “Arduino/Genuino Micro” under
the Boards menu. If you choose the
wrong option it simply won’t work, so
if in doubt try one or the other.
Before uploading the code, open a
text editor such as Notepad or Leafpad, as the board becomes a keyboard
device immediately after the upload
completes.
Now open the IR_Code_Typer.ino
sketch file, which you will have extracted from our download package,
then click “Upload” (or press CTRL+U
on your keyboard).
Assuming the upload completes
successfully, switch to the text editor
that you opened earlier, then point
your infrared remote control at the unit
and press one of the buttons.
You should see a hexadecimal value
appear and pressing a different button
should give you a different code. You
may also get different codes if you hold
the button down.
A good way to record the codes is to
open a spreadsheet program and create a list with the button names that
you want to use in the first column.
Then move the cursor to the top of
the second column and press each
remote control button in turn, corresponding to the names in the first
column.
The code should appear in that cell
and the cursor will move to the next
cell below.
Uploading the main sketch
You might like to try uploading the
sketch to the board without making
any changes, just to check that everything works as it should.
The sketch code we have created
will work with the Jaycar XC3718 remote control pictured earlier, but can
be supplemented with your own codes.
70
Silicon Chip
By default, it uses the numbers 1-9
as a joystick type interface, with the
5 key being the same as a left mouse
click and the other numbers moving
the pointer in different directions by
10 pixels at a time.
For example, number 4 is to the left
of centre so it will move the mouse
to the left.
We’ve also set up the Play/Pause
button to emulate a spacebar press and
the Previous and Next buttons generate Alt-Left and Alt-Right keypresses
respectively. These last two correspond to forward and back on many
web browsers too.
If you are using a different remote
control or want to change what the buttons do, you will need to modify the
code. Specifically, you will be modifying the series of “if” statements which
check to see which IR code has been
received and then perform an appropriate action.
Before making any modifications,
save the Sketch file under a different
name so that you don’t overwrite the
original.
Using your spreadsheet as a reference, replace the hexadecimal value
in each “if” statement with one of
the button codes that you noted earlier. Then, inside the braces that follow that if statement, you will need
to change or add the code to send the
necessary keyboard or mouse events
to the computer.
For example, let’s say that in response to button code 0xFF1234 being received, you want to generate
a keypress equivalent to pressing
CTRL+ALT+t on the keyboard. Your
new “if” statement would look like:
if (code == 0xFF1234) {
Keyboard.press(
KEY_LEFT_CTRL);
Keyboard.press(KEY_LEFT_ALT);
Keyboard.press(‘t’);
delay(100);
Keyboard.releaseAll();
code=0;
}
The “code=0;” line towards the end
should be included if you do not want
the action to be repeated if the key is
held down. If you do want it to repeat,
leave that bit out.
Once you have done this with all
the buttons you want to use on the
remote and removed any extraneous
“if” statements which may be left
over from the original code, you can
Australia’s electronics magazine
proceed to upload this sketch to the
main board.
You can handle codes from multiple
remote controls in the same sketch.
Having uploaded the sketch, check
that it works as expected. If you find
any keys are not responding or not doing what you think they should, check
the code in the “if” statements.
Finalising the code
You might notice in the codes that
we check for 0xFFFFFFFF. This is a
code emitted by remote controls that
use the NEC encoding which indicates that the current key is being held
down and the effect of that key should
be repeated.
We implement this by saving the
code of whatever key was last pressed
and then substituting that code if a repeat code is seen.
What next?
It’s a very useful device as described,
but these Arduino boards have a number of spare pins and you could use
these for other tasks that can also be
controlled by the remote control.
For example, you could wire up
some LEDs and arrange for remote
buttons to switch them on and off for
some instant mood lighting.
You could even consider integrating some code to switch remote power
points on and off. You could do this
using some Arduino code provided
by Jaycar which works with the wireless power point switches. This can be
downloaded from www.jaycar.com.
au/iot-wireless-switch
SC
Parts List
1 infrared remote control
(eg, Jaycar XC3718)
1 infrared receiver module
(eg, Jaycar ZD1952,
Altronics Z1611A)
Beetle-based version
1 DFRobot Beetle or equivalent
(ProMicro etc)
Leonardo-based version
Arduino Leonardo board or
equivalent (eg, Jaycar
XC4430, Altronics Z6214)
1 set of plug-socket breadboard
leads (eg, Jaycar WC6028,
Altronics P1017)
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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August 2018 71
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projects, crafts, hobbies and odd jobs around the house!
Powerful 130W motor with variable speed between 8000 and
33000 RPM. Included is a 172pc accessory kit of grinding
wheels, drills, cutters, sanding discs, polishing pads and more!
Stows away in a hard plastic carry case.
32.95 $350
$
NEW!
Ideal for technicians working on mains powered
equipment. Includes 2.5, 4, 5.5, 6.5mm slotted
and #0, #1, #2 phillips screwdrivers, plus a
240V neon tester.
SAVE
$50
T 2178
SAVE $30
T 2052
SAVE $45
Micron® Combo Soldering
& Vacuum Desoldering Station
Virtually every crimper you’ll ever need! 10
sets of quick change magnetic jaws to suit
kwik crimps, uninsulated lugs, telephone
lugs, ferrules, coax crimps, D-Sub pins &
RJ plugs.
44
$
Q 1026A
ProsKit®
Analogue Multimeter
79.95
3 in 1 LED
Work Light
Features a mini flood
light, top mount spot
torch & SOS beacon.
Requires 3xAAA
batteries (S 4904 2pk).
39
SAVE
22%
X 0223
10
$
SAVE
$9.95
Instant Read IR
Thermometer
0.1° accuracy from
-50 to 260°C.
Includes batteries.
Ideal for observing constantly
varying quantities such as
cycling voltages or speaker
resonance testing.
Nifty
Multi-Angle
Bench Vice
Made from diecast
alloy. Clamps to
your work bench
and provides total
360° freedom when
working. Jaws open
to 55 mm. Includes
soft jaws for holding
delicate connectors.
27
$
SAVE 26%
$
T 5018A
.95
An excellent multi purpose soldering iron for service technicians, schools, engineers, R&D, production work etc.
Japanese long life ceramic element. 150°-480°C. 0.8mm
tip. 2 year warranty.
Q1282A
With customisable foam
inner and eggshell foam
lid to keep equipment
secure and safe. Ext. size:
495x365x128mm.
10 Crimping Tools In One!
A price breakthrough
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bag and test
leads.
$
Micron® 60W Digital Soldering Station
Lockable
Equipment Case
165
True RMS
Autoranging
Meter
$
T 2417
Save space on your bench with this top performing 60W soldering iron and 90W
vacuum desoldering station. Removes a 16 pin through hole IC in 30 seconds! Sucks
molten solder away from components & pads in no time and is easily cleaned. 160°
to 480°C adjustable. Includes 0.2mm soldering tip and three desoldering tips.
$
Q 1130B
109
T 2194A
1000V Rated Screwdriver Kit
AC/DC Clamp Meter
T 2367
SAVE 22%
39
$
Shop online 24/7 <at> www.altronics.com.au
Accurately measures AC or DC current to a MASSIVE 600A! Includes
advanced True RMS AC measurement, resistance, temSAVE $44
perature, capacitance,
zero & hold functions
- All supplied with carry
case & test leads.
145
$
Q 0966
1300 797 007
NEED PA GEAR FOR EVENTS OR FUNCTIONS?
WE ARE THE PA SPECIALISTS!
279
$
C 7182C
Okayo® Makes Portable
Event Sound Easy!
The new PA of choice for schools, wedding celebrants
Rear
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999
$
PACK PRICE!
WIRELESS MIC PACKAGE:
Includes your choice of handheld microphone or
lavalier beltpack (with mic). Total saving of $354!
199
Ideal for clubs &
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$
SAVE $169
Tuned for superior
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C 8884
UHF Wireless Handheld Microphone Pack
WOW, a pro grade package with two handheld transmitters
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AA 2pk $4.95ea S 4906).
C 0855 + A 1115
Stream music directly from your phone with this Bluetooth
hi-fi audio package. It combines our best selling pair of
Opus One Platinum C 0855 6.5” ceiling speakers with the
A 1115 2x20W Bluetooth amplifier. 20m range.
79
$
SAVE
22%
Entertainers
Mic
SAVE $40
One of our all
time best selling
units, with superb
reproduction
and outstanding
value. Diecast
body. Includes
6m XLR cable.
33
$
A 2620
Portable Micro Mixer
Powered by 9V battery or
plugpack (M 8923 $17.95) this
tiny mixer is perfect for small
productions. Mixes four 6.35mm
mics.
C 0392
SAVE
$20
Add wireless sound
to your kitchen, study
or entertaining area.
99
$
S 9359
5.8GHz Wireless AV Sender
Transmit stereo audio & composite video without cables
from room to room. 30m range. IR sender built in.
Includes transmitter, receiver & plugpacks.
Also relays IR signals
back to your source
equipment.
79
$
299
$
SAVE $100
A 3601
SAVE 30%
35
$
A 1109
Great for
home
recording!
A 2548
129
$
4 Channel USB Mixer
With Equaliser & Effects.
Instant Bluetooth®
audio for any amplifier!
Pairs with your phone & stream instantly
to your existing audio system. Includes
3.5mm lead. Buy P 6020 1.5m lead ($6)
to hook up to RCA input on most amps.
Want to get into recording podcasts, voice
overs or making your own samples? This mini
USB mixer connects directly to your PC or
Mac, takes up very little desk space and is
powered directly from USB - making it highly
portable. Includes 3 band EQ and effects.
124W x 157D x 40Hmm.
199
$
A 4201
NEW!
A 0920
SAVE $20
Wireless Infra-Red Repeater
Use your remote control up to 200m
away (line of sight) from your equipment.
Perfect for controlling your AV system
from the patio or entertaining area.
Includes plugpacks, IR emitter & receiver.
SAVE 28%
Transmits bluetooth audio from your phone
(music, phone calls etc) to your cars FM
radio. Plus it’s also a dual USB charger!
SAVE 15%
85
$
SAVE $24
32
X 0604A
Designed to send a 1080p HDMI signal wirelessly up to
35m line of sight using 5GHz band for reliable transmission. Supports full 7.1ch surround. Includes plugpacks.
SAVE 10%
$
Bluetooth FM Audio Player
Send HDMI
signals wirelessly!
A 3216A
Long Distance
HDMI Sender
D 5584
High Quality Wi-Fi Music Streamer
125
$
As used by hundreds of commercial
AV installs! Send 1080p from a HDMI
source up to 50m over Cat5e/6 UTP.
Includes TX, RX & plugpacks.
Can be networked into a multi-zone system for
control by multiple devices. This brilliant music streamer
simply plugs into your existing amplifier’s RCA/3.5mm
input and pairs with your smartphone or tablet for instant
high quality audio streaming.
D 4238
29.95
$
SAVE 14%
75
$
Bluetooth 2x50W Amp
®
Stream audio directly from your device to
yourspeakers in the study or entertaining
area. 3.5mm and RCA inputs. Class D design.
Internal headphone amplifier.
A 2710
USB Background Music Player
Simply plug in a USB stick, connect the RCA
output to your amplifier & press play! It even
automatically loops the music. Requires
12VDC plugpack M9273A $16.95.
D 2359
69
$
.95
NEW!
USB C to HDMI Adaptor
Provides USB A & HDMI output up to
4K <at> 60Hz for USB C devices.
Shop online 24/7 <at> www.altronics.com.au
Make
your next
presentation easy!
This wireless presenter replicates PowerPoint slide controls in your hand. In-built laser pointer. Plug & play, no
drivers required for Mac or Windows. Includes battery.
1300 797 007
HANDY PI PARTS...
42
Power your Pi
over PoE!
20
SAVE 10%
SAVE 16%
Z 6307
Z 6308
ProtoHAT for Raspberry Pi®
3D Gesture & Touch Sensor
A HAT board with soldermasked 0.1”
holes and stackable header so you dont
lose access to the GPIO pins. Pi sold
FlickHAT is a 3D tracking and gesture HAT
that lets you control yourPi with a swipe, tap
or flick your wrist. Detects gestures up to
15cm away in 3D space. Pi sold separately.
separately.
NEW MODEL!
19.95
$
$
2 for
$
72
$
S 9265
Z 6420
Raspberry Pi Desktop PC Case
Power Over Ethernet USB Splitter
Turn the Raspberry Pi into a desktop computer with
this case & expansion board. Provides an intelligent
power controller, an RTC & a mSATA SSD hard drive
interface.
Allows you to power a Micro USB equipped device
from a 802.3af Power Over Ethernet RJ45 cable.
Eliminates the need for a power supply at the end of
the cable run. 5V 2.4A max.
SAVE 19%
NEW!
K 1148
K 1119
SAVE 22%
38
$
NEW!
K 1149
.95
47.95
$
39
.95
$
Shaking Dice Kit
Build yourself an Aussie icon!
12 In 1 Solar & Hydraulic Kit
Tobbie The Smart Robot Kit
Robot Frilled Neck Lizard Kit. Build it up and have
it follow you like a pet. Or sneak up and surprise it,
making it spread its frill. 37cm long. Requires 4xAAA. 8+
A huge parts kit which can be built and rebuilt into 12
different solar powered designs. Hours of fun for kids
aged 8 or over (or younger with adult help). 8+
A six legged robot kit designed to avoid objects
or follow you around the room. Interactive AI
develops its own emotions & gestures. 8+
GET BUILDING WITH THESE GREAT DEALS!
No push button required, just give
it a shake! Slowly rolls to a stop
to show the final value. Requires
CR2032 battery (S4999B $2.95)
K 6021
SAVE $30
Powerful
Ultrasonic Cleaner Kit
84.95
$
MegaBox Kit For Arduino
K 9670
80
(SC Jan-May ‘17) This completely new amp
design incorporates most of the features of
Silicon Chip Ultra-LD Mk4 200W amp but uses
easy-to-solder through-hole components - no
SMD! 200W into 4Ω load. Heatsink for illustration
purposes, H 0536 $25.95.
48
30
$
SAVE
19%
K 9640
B 0092
A huge assortment of parts for
experimenting and building. Includes
diodes, LEDs, switches, resistors, caps,
strip board, a motor & more. Normal
RRP value $55!
95
$
Perfect for Arduino based access
control, security and automation
designs. Atmega328p chip on
board and suits standard shields.
Sale Ends August 31st 2018
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
K 8116
K 6036
Super Smooth
Motor Speed Controler Kit
(SC Feb ‘14) Smooth control for appliances
rated up to 10A. Suits brush-type universal
motors such as those in lathes, electric drills,
circular saws, routers, nibblers and jigsaws.
24
$
10
.95
$
Light Sensitive Switch Kit
SAVE $60
K 9650
Arduino Keypad Plate
K 1137
SC200 200W Amp Kit
purposes.
$
(SC August ‘10) Build this large, heavy duty ultrasonic cleaner
and blast away grime from virtually anything, using just water.
Sensor can be dunked into a bucket for cleaning large items. Great
for car parts! Requires 12V DC 3A plugpack, MB8937B $29.95
K 5157
$
The MegaBox allows an Arduino UNO or Mega to be plugged into it, along with
a shield allowing you to build a design into a finished case. Plus it also features
a 16x2 LCD, four buttons, rotary encoder, dual 2A 5V relay outs. All pins
broken out to headers for connection to breakouts. Shield and UNO for illustration
Tinker Parts Pack
99
$
NEW!
BACK IN STOCK!
VALUE!
16
$
K 8134
Automatically switches on at dusk
and turns off at dawn. Adjustable
sensitivity with delay circuit. 12V DC
input. 24V/5A NO/NC max.
2x20W 12V
Amplifier Kit
SAVE 40%
Temperature Alarm Kit
Ideal for use with home brew,
aquariums, heating & cooling etc.
-33°C to 125°C range. Under/
over indicators with piezo alert.
SAVE 20%
(SC May ‘10) This compact
stereo amp module puts out
2x20W RMS into 4Ω and is
12V powered (SLA battery
or plugpack). Distortion
typically <0.03%. Bass &
treble controls. Great for
mobile use in a caravan.
Find your nearest reseller at:
www.altronics.com.au/resellers
K 5136
44
$
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost
of freight and insurance and therefore the
range of stocked products & prices charged
by individual resellers may vary from our
catalogue.
© Altronics 2018. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude
freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
M-u-u-u-m . . . he’s been in my room again!
Do you have children or grandchildren who are very territorial?
Do they want extra security against
invasion of their rooms by pesky
siblings? Why not build a Personal
Security alarm so they can be alerted
when their room is about to be
invaded? It will sound an alarm as
soon as the door knob is touched and
possibly avert any noisy squabbles.
The kids will love it! Of course, you
may then have to make an alarm
for each kid who wants one.
Build the
watchdog alarm
(for peace in your home!)
By
JOHN CLARKE
A
kid’s domain is sacrosanct – especially
if they are fortunate enough to have their
own room. But no amount of threats or
retribution will keep a sibling (or parent!) out
when they’re uninvited! Kids are sneaky that
way. . .
This Watchdog Alarm is effective and
certainly preferable to more drastic measures
such as trip wires, buckets precariously balanced above doorways, trapdoors, Gatling guns
and other schemes which war-like adolescent
humans are likely to dream up to protect their
room, cave, cubby house or lair.
Having an audible warning means the hostile
room occupant will immediately be alerted to
an undesirable alien (eg, little brother!) touching
the doorknob, even before they open the door.
That warning may or may not be sufficient
to prevent the mischief maker from creating
mayhem by opening the door, knowing they
76
Silicon Chip
have been detected, but it will certainly be a
deterrent against further incursions.
(OK, we’re not seriously suggesting
this alarm as a proper security device
. . . but it could have other applications where a
change in the capacitance of a metal object needs
to be detected.)
The idea for this project came from an article
in the April 1981 edition of Electronics Australia
for a portable burglar alarm.
Powered from a 9V battery, it used a hex
Schmitt trigger connected as a couple of oscillators and a timing circuit to drive a siren whenever
the doorknob was touched.
That article suggested it as being suitable for
use in hotel rooms but that is not practical today for modern hotel and motel rooms, which
are usually entered by swiping a card through a
magnetic scanner, or even via an RFID tag.
Nevertheless, with child territoriality in mind,
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
we have updated this concept using a
low power microcontroller. The resulting Watchdog Alarm uses an 8-pin
micro on a small PCB which can be
easily assembled and set up within
an hour. It is powered from a small,
onboard 3V cell and is presented as
a bare printed circuit board (PCB) assembly to minimise cost.
A sensor loop is placed over the
doorknob (no electrical connection required) to detect when this is touched.
The Watchdog Alarm is turned on
and off with a toggle switch and an
indicator LED flashes to show that the
Fig.1: the Watchdog’s microcontroller feeds a 2MHz signal via trimmer
capacitor VC1 to the doorknob sensor loop. If someone touches the doorknob,
doorknob is being monitored.
their body capacitance shunts this signal to ground. The micro senses this and
When the Watchdog Alarm is first
sounds the piezo alarm or siren.
switched on, the indicator LED flashes
rapidly for about 10 seconds during which time the doorknob can be an off-board piezo siren. This is more 2MHz signal which is applied to the
touched without sounding the alarm. likely to wake more comatose room doorknob which is monitored at the
Touching the doorknob during this occupants (no guarantees, though!).
same time.
period will cause the LED to light fully.
If a pesky human touches the
You can use the 10-second period
doorknob, the person’s body cato check the operation of the
pacitance will effectively shunt
Watchdog Alarm. We’ll explain
away the 2MHz signal and this
• Detects the presence of a hand on a doorknob
this later in the setup section.
will cause the micro to sound
Once the 10-second period has • Option of piezo transducer or louder siren for alarm the alarm. The circuit requires
expired, the LED will flash about
a “counterpoise”, made from
• Testing period during initial power on without
once per second to indicate that
three lengths of wire and this
sounding alarm
the Watchdog Alarm is armed.
serves to provide a virtual ground
Touching the doorknob then will • LED indicator shows initial test period, normal
reference.
cause the alarm to sound.
The circuit, shown in Fig.2,
monitoring and alarm
There are two alarm options.
is based on a PIC12F617 8-pin
One is a on-board piezo transducer Block & circuit diagrams
microcontroller (IC1).
that beeps twice every three seconds
Switch S1 connects the 3V button
Fig.1 shows the block diagram.
(about 1.5Hz) if the alarm is triggered. As already noted, this alarm uses a cell and diode D1 provides reverse poFor a much louder alarm you can use microcontroller and it produces a larity protection. If the cell is somehow
Features
Fig.2: the micro provides two alarm options. The first is a piezo transducer driven with anti-phase tone burst signals
which effectively doubles the single pin output voltage. The second is a lounder off-board piezo siren which has its own
internal oscillator. LED1 shows the alarm status.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 77
The two “sirens” applicable, shown here not far off life
size. On the left is the louder of the two which must be
mounted off the PCB. At right, the piezo transducer, can be
mounted directly on the PCB.
inserted incorrectly, the diode will conduct and safely limit
the reverse voltage to IC1 at around -0.6V. Admittedly, the
cell holder we use makes it rather difficult (if not impossible!) to allow the cell to be inserted incorrectly, so that
is an added prevention.
IC1 uses an internal 8MHz oscillator and this is divided
by four to provide a clock signal of 2MHz at pin 3, CLKOUT.
Most of the time IC1 is in sleep mode and its internal
8MHz oscillator is stopped. It is woken once a second by
its internal watchdog timer (yep, that’s where we got the
name from!) to flash the red indicator LED and check if the
doorknob is being touched. Sleep mode reduces the current
consumption of IC1 down to a very low level in order to
maximise the life of the cell.
In more detail, the internal watchdog timer runs continuously and once a second it wakes up IC1. The 8MHz
oscillator then starts, the program in IC1 runs and the CLKOUT output at pin 3 then produces the 2MHz signal. This
signal is applied via an adjustable trimmer capacitor, VC1,
to the T0CKI (pin 5) via 470Ω resistors. The wire loop for
the doorknob sensing is attached to the trimmer capacitor
at the opposite side to CLKOUT.
Fig.3: the complementary (anti-phase) drive signals
applied to the piezo transducer, from pins 6 & 7. The two
signals are at 4.05kHz and have an amplitude very close
to 2.06V and 2.44V peak-to-peak, not allowing for the
overshoot spikes. Therefore the total signal applied to the
transducer will be close to the sum of those voltages 4.5V
peak-to-peak, as shown in the purple mathematical trace.
78
Silicon Chip
If the doorknob is not touched, the input to IC1 at T0CKI
will receive the 2MHz signal passing through the trimmer
capacitor.
The block diagram of Fig.1 depicts what happens inside
IC1. The 2MHz signal is applied to a divide-by-four prescaler
and then to an 8-bit counter (TIMER0). At 2MHz, the output
from the prescaler is 500kHz (2MHz/4). TIMER0 counts at
the 500kHz rate and the overflow output (T0IF) goes high
after 256 counts – the full count of the 8-bit counter.
TIMER 0 reaches the full count in 512µs. If its output
does not go high after this period, then the software assumes there is no signal. Lack of signal would mean that
the 2MHz signal is being diverted to ground by flow through
the doorknob by body capacitance.
Several extra parts are used between the VC1 output
and the T0CKI input. This includes the 470Ω resistors and
diodes D2 & D3 which are included to protect the pin 5
input. Should the person have a static charge before touching the doorknob, diodes D2 or D3 will clamp the voltage to
the positive or 0V supply depending on the static voltage
polarity. The 470Ω resistor to D2 and D3 limits current. The
next 470Ω resistor to pin 5 protects the internal protection
diodes of IC1.
The 1MΩ resistor is there to pull pin 5 to 0V so the input
does not float at a voltage between 0V and the supply. Additionally, during sleep, the pin 5 input is changed from an
input to a low output, further ensuring the input is not floating. A floating input will cause IC1 to draw extra current.
Piezo drive
The GP3 input, pin 4, connects to the 3-pin header
JP1. The position of a 2-pin jumper on this header selects
whether you use the lower-cost on-board piezo transducer
or the louder off-board piezo siren. The selector is necessary
because each is driven differently. The piezo transducer is
driven by a burst signal generated by the micro, while the
piezo siren has its own internal constant tone generator and
is turned on when pin 7 goes high, feeding it with 3V DC.
When set in the piezo position, GP3 is tied low and if
Fig.4 shows the same complementary drive signals fed to
the transducer as in Fig. 3 but at a slower sweep speed
of 5ms/div. This shows how the signal bursts are rapidly
chopped to give it a burbling sound, which is more
attention-getting. Note that we are running the piezo
transducer at close to its resonant frequency to maximise
its audible effect.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications
Supply voltage: 3V lithium cell which operates down to 2V
Current drain: 5.4µA at 2V; 7.5µA at 3V,with LED flashing
once per second
(Piezo siren; when sounding add an extra 250µA)
Expected cell life: ~1 year continuous use
Indicator flash: 3.2ms once each 1.152s, constantly lit during
detection
Testing period indication: LED flashes 3.5 times per second
during first 10 seconds after power up. Fully lit during
detection
Alarm response time: 0.5s (285ms during 10 second testing
period)
Piezo Transducer: 200ms bursts of 4.05kHz warbled at
between 400Hz and 600Hz at a 1.55Hz rate
Piezo siren alarm: Uses intermittent siren or siren burst
Fig.6: the PCB component overlay,
with matching photo at left.
It is shown here without the
piezo siren mounted to reveal the
PIC and other components underneath.
the doorknob is touched to trigger the alarm, the piezo
transducer sounds, as pins 6 & 7 (GP1 & GP0) alternately
go high and low, to deliver bursts of 4kHz signal. In a small
room and at close quarters, this can be quite loud.
Certainly, there is no mistaking that the miscreant has
been “pinged”. The alarm will sound while ever the doorknob is touched. As soon as the doorknob is released, the
alarm will stop.
The scope screen grabs of Fig. 3 & 4 show the complementary drive signals applied to the piezo transducer, from
pins 6 & 7. In Fig.4, the two signals are at 4.05kHz and have
an amplitude very close to 2.06V and 2.44V peak-to-peak,
not allowing for the overshoot spikes. Therefore the total
signal applied to the transducer will be close to the sum of
those voltages÷ 4.5V peak-to-peak, as shown in the purple
mathematical trace of Fig.3.
By the way, the reason the signals on both sides are the
transducer are not identical is explained by the presence
of the series 100Ω current-limiting resistor from pin 6.
Note that we are running the piezo transducer at close to
its resonant frequency to maximise its audible effect.
Fig.4 shows the same complementary drive signals but
at a slower sweep speed of 5ms/div. This shows how the
signal bursts are rapidly chopped which gives it a burbling
sound which is more attention-getting.
Finally, Fig.5 shows the same signal at the very low
sweep speed of 500ms/div and this shows the 260ms duration and 1.55Hz frequency of burbled tone bursts from
the transducer.
When the JP1 jumper is in the siren position, the siren
is powered by a high level (ie, the Vcc supply voltage) at
the GP0 output with its other terminal connected permanently to ground.
Construction
Fig.5: the piezo transducer signal from pin 7 of IC1,at
the very low sweep speed of 500ms/div and this
illustrates the 260ms duration and 1.55Hz frequency of
the burbled tone bursts from the microcontroller. The
burbling of the tone bursts makes the sound seem much
louder.
siliconchip.com.au
The Watchdog Alarm is constructed on a PCB coded
03107181, and measuring 42 x 93mm. It is presented as a
bare PCB that can be hung on the doorknob.
Fig.6 shows the PCB overlay. Begin construction by
installing the resistors. There are only three values and
of these, the only ones you could mix up are the 100Ω
(brown black brown brown) and the 1MΩ (brown black
green brown) in four-band code. Use a multimeter to check
the value of each before inserting into the PCB. The three
470Ω resistors have yellow, purple, brown, brown coding.
Diodes D1 to D3 can now be installed taking care to
orient correctly and noting that D1 is the 1N4004 and the
remaining diodes are 1N4148s. The 100nF capacitor can
be fitted now, followed by the IC socket (for IC1). It must
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 79
You’re likely to see
this warning when
programming the
PIC12F617-I/P
On the PICkit 3
it can be safely
ignored, but other
programmers may
not support this
programming.
Parts list – Watchdog Door Alarm
1 double-sided PCB, coded 03107181, 42 x 93mm
1 SPDT PCB toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1421]
1 20mm PCB button cell holder [Jaycar PH-9238, Altronics
S5056]
1 CR2032 lithium cell
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 piezo transducer [Jaycar AB-3440, Altronics S6140] OR
11-13V pulsating piezo siren [Jaycar AB3456, Altronics
S6117]
1 3-pin header with 2.54mm spacing (JP1)
1 jumper shunt (JP1)
2 PC stakes (optional)
2 M3 tapped x 9mm spacers
4 M3 x 6mm screws (at least two polycarbonate or Nylon)
1 4m length of multistrand insulated wire (eg 24 x 0.2mm)
1 150mm length of 6mm diameter heatshrink tubing
4 10mm diameter self-adhesive surface savers (stick-on feet)
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller
programmed with 0310718A.hex (IC1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
2 1N4148 diodes (D2,D3)
1 3mm red high brightness LED (LED1)
Capacitors
1 100nF 63V or 100V MKT polyester (Code 104 or 100n)
1 9.8-60pF trimmer capacitor (VC1)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1MΩ (Code brown black green brown or brown black
black yellow brown)
3 470Ω (Code yellow purple brown brown or yellow purple
black black brown)
1 100Ω (Code brown black brown brown or brown black
black black brown)
be oriented with the notch facing the 100nF capacitor.
The 3-way pin header for JP1 is next. Optional PC stakes
are installed at the wiring points for the piezo transducer or
for the siren (the wires could instead be directly soldered
to the relevant pads).
Make sure the plus terminal of the button cell holder is
oriented toward IC1 on the PCB. LED1 is mounted raised
off the PCB (we made ours about 10mm high but it can be
mounted higher). Take care with orientation – the longer
(anode) lead goes to the hole marked with the ‘A’.
VC1 can be installed either way around on the PCB.
Switch S1 is inserted into position and soldered in place.
The switch applies power when the toggle is up. The toggle
Here’s how the
on-board piezo
transducer mounts
on stand-offs
above the PIC.
The larger, more
powerful siren can
be mounted some
distance away. It
would connect to
the “siren” pads,
not the “piezo”
pads as seen here.
80
Silicon Chip
is protected inside the PCB cut out so is less likely to be
inadvertently moved.
Leave the siren or piezo transducer off for the moment.
Programming the microcontroller
If you purchase your PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller from
the SILICON CHIP Online Shop (and tell us which project
it’s for!) it will come already programmed (there is no extra
charge for programming).
However, if you want to program the PIC yourself, the
file 0310718A.hex can be downloaded from the SILICON
CHIP website.
There is one caveat: we are not using pin 4 of IC1 as the
master clear (MCLR) input but as an input for JP1. For master
clear we use the internal MCLR instead. Some programmers
will not support programming when the internal MCLR and
internal oscillator are selected. If you are using a PICkit 3,
the warning can be ignored and programming continued.
Make sure IC1 is oriented correctly before inserting into
its socket (the notch on the IC matches the notch on the
socket).
Now install the CR2032 cell in its holder and place a
jumper link onto the 3-way header at JP1. Switch on S1
and if all is well, the LED will light or flash rapidly to
acknowledge power has been connected.
All that’s left now is to fit the piezo transducer or the
off-board siren.
If you choose the piezo transducer, it is mounted to the
PCB on 9mm spacers using 15mm M3 screws. It sits up
10mm above the PCB surface as there are other components (including IC1) underneath. The two flanges on the
transducer housing will need the holes drilled out to 3mm.
There’s a little wrinkle here: the piezo housing flanges
do not quite allow for M3 screw heads, as the heads foul
the circular side of the transducer. With our prototype,
the sides of the heads were filed down for each screw that
secures the piezo transducer.
Plastic polycarbonate or Nylon screws are easier to file
down than steel. To secure the two screws, the standoff is
rotated onto the screw thread instead of rotating the screw.
Then the Piezo and standoffs can be secured to the PCB
with the screws on the underside of the PCB.
If you choose the significantly louder off-board siren,
note that it is polarised – the negative (usually black) wire
goes to the – siren terminal while the “pulse” wire (usually
yellow) goes to the + siren terminal. The red wire is not
used for three-wire sirens. By extending the siren’s black
Australia’s electronics magazine
The lip on the piezo transducer
doesn’t quite allow the screw heads
to fit, so we filed off one edge before
mounting. We used Nylon screws
because they’re a lot easier to file than
normal screws!
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s the door
handle loop before
heatshrinking and
soldering in place. It
consists of four turns
of hookup wire,
90mm in diameter.
The heatshrink helps
hold its shape.
and yellow wires with suitable hookup or thin figure-8 wire,
you can locate it some distance away from the PCB – even
a few metres or so, if you wish.
Finally, don’t forget to install the jumper shunt at JP1
in the correct position for the piezo transducer or siren
whichever is used (the PCB is clearly marked).
Wiring
The loops for the door handle are made up using a 1.2m
length of insulated wire to make four turns at 90mm in
diameter. We fed our loops through lengths of 6mm diameter heatshrink tubing so that the loops would stay in
place without unravelling. Strip back the two wire ends
a few millimetres and solder the ends into the doorknob
holes on the PCB.
For the counterpoise, cut three 900mm lengths of insulated wire, strip insulation from one end of each and solder
to the counterpoise holes located at the bottom of the PCB.
In use, these are spread out over the door and fixed using
Blu-Tack or tape.
It makes sense, if possible, to use wires the same colour
(or close) as the door to make them unobtrusive.
If you are placing this on a door that is not your own,
then check to see if the mounting method does not stain
or leave a mark on the door. In some cases, just having the
three wires loosely dangling straight down will be sufficient.
And here it is shrunk
and soldered. The loop
simply drops over
the door handle – no
electrical connection
is required as it detects
capacitance – in this
case, the capacitance
of the person touching
the doorknob on the
other side of the door.
When they do so . . .
GOTCHA!
Place the wire loop over a doorknob and switch on.
Adjust VC1 so that the LED flashes with the door handle
untouched but lights up when touched. This is a trial and
error adjustment, so try various settings of VC1. Once you
find a good position where the hand is detected readily,
the adjustment should not need changing again.
Note that for the first 10s after power is switched on, the
LED will flash at a fast rate before flashing about once per
second. That is if it is not detecting a touched door knob
and the adjustment of VC1 is correct.
The period when the LED is flashing at the faster rate
indicates that the piezo or siren, when connected, will not
sound when the doorknob is touched until the 10 seconds
has expired.
This is to allow the testing of the Personal Door Alarm
when first switched on without causing a lot of noise from
the alarm.
If you wish, stick some self-adhesive surface savers
(hemi-spherical adhesive buttons) to the corners of the
PCB to protect against scratching the door.
SC
Testing
Note that the Watchdog Alarm will not work if the door
is metal-sheathed or if the door jamb is metal. It works
best with timber-framed and timber doors with metal
doorknobs. There is no need for an electrical connection
from the doorknob to the wire loop, so the doorknob can be
lacquered (such as coated gold or brass finishes) or exposed
metal (such as brushed aluminium).
The three counterpoise
wires can, like the
doorknob loop, be
made from any surplus
hookup wire. They
should be about 900mm
long each – but can
be a little shorter if
your door handle is
lower than standard.
They solder to the PCB
but don’t connect to
anything else. The short
length of heatshrink
tubing provides strain
relief to the solder joints
on the PCB.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.7: you need to secure the
counterpoise wires to the
door to ensure consistent
operation. Blu-Tack is good
because it doesn’t usually
leave marks when
removed.
August 2018 81
SILICON
CHIP
.com.au/shop
ONLINESHOP
Looking for a specialised component to build that latest and greatest Silicon Chip project? Maybe it’s the PCB you’re
after? Or a pre-programmed micro? Or some other hard-to-get “bit”? The chances are they are available direct from the
Silicon Chip Online Shop.
•
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PCBs are normally IN STOCK and ready for despatch when that month’s magazine goes on sale (you don’t have to wait for them to be made!).
Even if stock runs out (eg, for high demand), in most cases there will be no longer than a two-week wait.
One low p&p charge: $10 per order, irregardless of how many items you order! (AUS only; overseas clients – check the website for a postage quote).
Our PCBs are beautifully made, very high quality fibreglass boards with pre-tinned tracks, silk screen overlays and where applicable, solder masks.
Best of all, subscribers receive a 10% discount on purchases! (Excluding subscription renewals and postage costs)
HERE’S HOW TO ORDER:
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INTERNET (24 hours, 7 days): Log on to our secure website –
All prices are in AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS ($AUD)
siliconchip.com.au, click on “SHOP” and follow the links
EMAIL (24 hours, 7 days): email silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au – Clearly tell us what you want and include your contact and credit card details
MAIL (24 hours, 7 days): PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW 2097. Clearly tell us what you want and include your contact and credit card details
PHONE (9am-5pm AET, Mon-Fri): Call (02) 9939 3295 (INT +612 9939 3295) – have your order ready, including contact and payment details!
YES! You can also order or renew your SILICON CHIP subscription via any of these methods as well!
PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
PIC12F617-I/P
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC12F675-E/P
PIC16F1455-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16LF1709-I/SO
Micros cost from $10.00 to $20.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
$10 MICROS
Temperature Switch Mk2 (June18), Recurring Event Reminder (Jul18)
PIC16F84A-20I/P
Door Alarm (Aug18)
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10)
PIC16F877A-I/P
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12), Do Not Disturb (May13)
PIC16F2550-I/SP
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PIC18F4550-I/P
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13), Driveway Monitor Receiver (July15)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS
Hotel Safe Alarm (Jun16), 50A Battery Charger Controller (Nov16)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP
Kelvin the Cricket (Oct17), Triac-based Mains Motor Speed Controller (Mar18)
Heater Controller (Apr18)
Courtesy LED Light Delay for Cars (Oct14), Fan Speed Controller (Jan18)
Microbridge (May17), USB Flexitimer (June18)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13), 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
Automotive Sensor Modifier (Dec16)
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
PIC32MX695F512H-80I/PF
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13)
Nicad/NiMH Burp Charger (Mar14), Remote Mains Timer (Nov14)
Driveway Monitor Transmitter (July15), Fingerprint Scanner (Nov15)
MPPT Lighting Charge Controller (Feb16), 50/60Hz Turntable Driver (May16)
Cyclic Pump Timer (Sep16), 60V 40A DC Motor Speed Controller (Jan17)
Pool Lap Counter (Mar17), Rapidbrake (Jul17), Deluxe Frequency Switch (May18)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13), GPS Analog Clock Driver (Feb17)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
Battery Cell Balancer (Mar16)
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/SP
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
$15 MICROS
Programmable Ignition Timing Module (Jun99), Fuel Mixture Display (Sept00)
Oscar Naughts And Crosses (Oct07), UV Lightbox Timer (Nov07)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), 16-bit Digital Pot (Jul10), Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
Multi-Purpose Car Scrolling Display (Dec08), GPS Car Computer (Jan10)
Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
GPS Tracker (Nov13), Micromite ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14)
Micromite Mk2 (Jan15) + 47F, Low Frequency Distortion Analyser (Apr15)
Micromite LCD BackPack [either version] (Feb16), GPS Boat Computer (Apr16)
Micromite Super Clock (Jul16), Touchscreen Voltage/Current Ref (Oct-Dec16)
Micromite LCD BackPack V2 (May17), Deluxe eFuse (Aug17)
Micromite DDS for IF Alignment (Sept17), Tariff Clock (Jul18)
44-pin Micromite Mk2
$20 MICROS
Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14)
Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
Micromite PLUS Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus LCD BackPack (Nov16)
Micromite PLUS Explore 100 (Sep-Oct16)
Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Cont. (Oct-Dec10)
SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
When ordering, be sure to select BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, HARD-TO-GET BITS, ETC
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS KIT
(AUG 18)
PCB and all onboard parts (including optional ones) but no SD card, cell or battery holder $40.00
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER PCB+PIC BUNDLE
(JUL 18)
USB PORT PROTECTOR COMPLETE KIT
(MAY 18)
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
(MAR 18)
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
(MAR 18)
PCB and programmed micro for a discount price
All parts including the PCB and a length of clear heatshrink tubing
MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (DIP-14)
MC1374P A/V modulator IC (DIP-14)
SBK-71K coil former pack (two required)
ALTIMETER/WEATHER STATION
(DEC 17)
Micromite 2.8-inch LCD BackPack kit programmed for the Altimeter project
GY-68 barometric pressure and temperature sensor module (with BMP180, Cat SC4343)
DHT22 temperature and humidity sensor module (Cat SC4150)
Elecrow 1A/500mA Li-ion/LiPo charger board (optional, Cat SC4308)
PARTS FOR THE 6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
(OCT 17)
DELUXE EFUSE PARTS
(AUG 17)
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
one ERA-2SM+ & one ADCH-80A+ (Cat SC1167; two packs required)
IPP80P03P4L04 P-channel mosfets (Cat SC4318)
BUK7909-75AIE 75V 120A N-channel SenseFet (Cat SC4317)
LT1490ACN8 dual op amp (Cat SC4319)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2 – COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4237)
(MAY 17)
includes PCB, programmed micro, touchscreen LCD, laser-cut UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
SMD Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other on-board parts
$70.00
$15.00
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER (CAT SC4125)
(FEB 17)
$15.00
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE (CAT SC4140)
(JAN 17)
$2.50
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
$5.00
$5.00 ea.
$65.00
$5.00
$7.50
$15.00
$69.90
$15.00/pk.
$4.00 ea.
$7.50 ea.
$7.50 ea.
MICROBRIDGE COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4264)
(MAY 17)
PCB plus all on-board parts including programmed microcontroller (SMD ceramics for 10µF) $20.00
STATIONMASTER (CAT SC4187)
P&P – $10 Per order#
(MAR 17)
Hard to get parts: DRV8871 IC, SMD 1µF capacitor and 100kW potentiometer with detent
$12.50
kit including PCB and all SMD parts, LDR and blue LED
hard-to-get parts: Q8-Q16, D2-D4, 150pF/250V capacitor and five SMD resistors
$12.50
$35.00
2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module with SD card socket (Tide Clock, JUL18)
$22.50
ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Part 15, APR18)
$5.00
WiFi Antennas with U.FL/IPX connectors (Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi, FEB18):
5dBi – $12.50 ~ 2dBi (omnidirectional) – $10.00
NRF24L01+PA+NA transceiver with SNA connector and antenna (El Cheapo 12, JAN18)
$5.00
WeMos D1 Arduino-compatible boards with WiFi (SEPT17, FEB18):
ThingSpeak data logger – $10.00 ~ WiFi Tank Level Meter (ext. antenna socket) – $15.00
Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player/Recorder, VS1053, JUL17)
$20.00
1nF 1% MKP (5mm lead spacing) or ceramic capacitor (Wide-Range LC Meter, JUN18)
$2.50
MAX7219 LED controller boards (El Cheapo Modules, Part 7, JUN17):
8x8 red SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ~ red 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
AD9833 DDS module (with gain control) (for Micromite DDS, APR17)
$25.00
AD9833 DDS module (no gain control) (El Cheapo Modules, Part 6, APR17)
$15.00
CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
microSD card adaptor (El Cheapo Modules, Part 3, JAN17)
$2.50
DS3231 real-time clock with mounting spacers and screws (El Cheapo, Part 1, OCT16)
$5.00
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 COMPLETE KIT (no LCD panel)
(SEP 16)
(includes PCB, programmed micro and the hard-to-get bits including female headers, USB
and microSD sockets, crystal, etc but does not include the LCD panel) (Cat SC3834)
$69.90
100dB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
All SMD parts except programmed micro and LEDs (both available separately)
(JUN 16)
$20.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
08/18
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB ONLY. If you want a kit, check our store or contact the kit suppliers advertising in this
issue. For unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
NOTE: Not all PCBs are shown here due to space limits but the Silicon Chip Online Shop has boards going back to 2001 and beyond.
For a complete list of available PCBs etc, go to siliconchip.com.au/shop/8 Prices are PCBs only, NOT COMPLETE KITS!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107131
$5.00
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107132 $10.00
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
08104131 $10.00
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
04107131 $10.00
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
11108131
$5.00
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
05109131 $10.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Main PCB
OCT 2013
06109131 $35.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Front & Rear Panels
OCT 2013
06109132/3 $25.00/pr
TINY TIM AMPLIFIER (identical Headphone Amp [Sept11]) OCT 2013
01309111 $20.00
AUTO CAR HEADLIGHT CONTROLLER
OCT 2013
03111131 $10.00
GPS TRACKER
NOV 2013
05112131 $15.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY/DSP
NOV 2013
01110131 $15.00
BELLBIRD
DEC 2013
08112131 $10.00
PORTAPAL-D MAIN BOARDS
DEC 2013
01111131-3 $35.00/set
(for CLASSiC-D Amp board and CLASSiC-D DC/DC Converter board refer above [Nov 2012/May 2013])
LED Party Strobe (also suits Hot Wire Cutter [Dec 2010])
JAN 2014
16101141
$7.50
Bass Extender Mk2
JAN 2014
01112131 $15.00
Li’l Pulser Mk2 Revised
JAN 2014
09107134 $15.00
10A 230VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
FEB 2014
10102141 $12.50
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
MAR 2014
14103141 $15.00
RUBIDIUM FREQ. STANDARD BREAKOUT BOARD
APR 2014
04105141 $10.00
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR
APR 2014
07103141
$5.00
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
MAY 2014
10104141 $10.00
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER
MAY 2014
16105141 $10.00
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY
MAY 2014
18104141 $20.00
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
JUN 2014
01205141 $20.00
TOUCHSCREEN AUDIO RECORDER
JUL 2014
01105141 $12.50
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
JUL 2014
99106141 $10.00
MICROMITE ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
JUL 2014
24107141
$7.50
FREQUENCY COUNTER ADD-ON
JUL 2014
04105141a/b $15.00
TEMPMASTER MK3
AUG 2014
21108141 $15.00
44-PIN MICROMITE
AUG 2014
24108141
$5.00
OPTO-THEREMIN MAIN BOARD
SEP 2014
23108141 $15.00
OPTO-THEREMIN PROXIMITY SENSOR BOARD
SEP 2014
23108142
$5.00
ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL PROBE BOARDS
SEP 2014
04107141/2 $10.00/set
MINI-D AMPLIFIER
SEP 2014
01110141
$5.00
COURTESY LIGHT DELAY
OCT 2014
05109141
$7.50
DIRECT INJECTION (D-I) BOX
OCT 2014
23109141
$5.00
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT
OCT 2014
01110131 $15.00
DUAL PHANTOM POWER SUPPLY
NOV 2014
18112141 $10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER
NOV 2014
19112141 $10.00
REMOTE MAINS TIMER PANEL/LID (BLUE)
NOV 2014
19112142 $15.00
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER
NOV 2014
01109141
$5.00
TDR DONGLE
DEC 2014
04112141
$5.00
MULTISPARK CDI FOR PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
DEC 2014
05112141 $10.00
CURRAWONG STEREO VALVE AMPLIFIER MAIN BOARD
DEC 2014
01111141 $50.00
CURRAWONG REMOTE CONTROL BOARD
DEC 2014
01111144
$5.00
CURRAWONG FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2014
01111142/3 $30.00/set
CURRAWONG CLEAR ACRYLIC COVER
JAN 2015
SC2892
$25.00
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE
JAN 2015
04108141 $10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER MAIN BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101151 $10.00
SPARK ENERGY ZENER BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101152 $10.00
SPARK ENERGY METER CALIBRATOR BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
05101153
$5.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
04103151 $10.00
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
04103152 $10.00
LOW-FREQUENCY DISTORTION ANALYSER
APR 2015
04104151
$5.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
04203151/2 $15.00
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
04203153 $15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR MAIN PCB
MAY 2015
04105151 $15.00
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR FRONT & REAR PANELS MAY 2015
04105152/3 $20.00
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
18105151
$5.00
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
04106151
$7.50
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
04106152
$2.50
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
04106153
$5.00
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
04104151
$5.00
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
01109121/2 $7.50
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
15105151 $10.00
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
15105152
$5.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
18107151
$2.50
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
04108151
$2.50
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
16101141
$7.50
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
01107151 $15.00
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
1510815
$15.00
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
18107152
$2.50
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
01205141 $20.00
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
01109111 $15.00
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
07108151
$7.50
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
03109151/2 $15.00
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
01110151 $10.00
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
19110151 $15.00
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
19111151 $15.00
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
04101161
$5.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC
DEC 2015
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
PRECISION 50/60Hz TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
JUN 2016
UNIVERSAL TEMPERATURE ALARM
JULY 2016
BROWNOUT PROTECTOR MK2
JULY 2016
8-DIGIT FREQUENCY METER
AUG 2016
APPLIANCE ENERGY METER
AUG 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 64
AUG 2016
CYCLIC PUMP/MAINS TIMER
SEPT 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 (4 layer)
SEPT 2016
AUTOMOTIVE FAULT DETECTOR
SEPT 2016
MOSQUITO LURE
OCT 2016
MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
MINI MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
50A BATTERY CHARGER CONTROLLER
NOV 2016
PASSIVE LINE TO PHONO INPUT CONVERTER
NOV 2016
MICROMITE PLUS LCD BACKPACK
NOV 2016
AUTOMOTIVE SENSOR MODIFIER
DEC 2016
TOUCHSCREEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT REFERENCE
DEC 2016
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. CONTROL BOARD
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. MOSFET BOARD
JAN 2017
GPS SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
FEB 2017
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER
FEB 2017
POOL LAP COUNTER
MAR 2017
STATIONMASTER TRAIN CONTROLLER
MAR 2017
EFUSE
APR 2017
SPRING REVERB
APR 2017
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MAY 2017
MICROBRIDGE
MAY 2017
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
MAY 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER PCB
JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER FRONT PANEL JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER CASE PIECES
JUN 2017
RAPIDBRAKE
JUL 2017
DELUXE EFUSE
AUG 2017
DELUXE EFUSE UB1 LID
AUG 2017
MAINS SUPPLY FOR BATTERY VALVES (INC. PANELS)
AUG 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER PANELS
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER CASE PIECES SEPT 2017
6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
OCT 2017
KELVIN THE CRICKET
OCT 2017
6GHz+ FREQUENCY COUNTER CASE PIECES (SET)
DEC 2017
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO PCB
DEC 2017
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO CASE PIECES
DEC 2017
THEREMIN
JAN 2018
PROPORTIONAL FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
JAN 2018
WATER TANK LEVEL METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
FEB 2018
10-LED BARAGRAPH
FEB 2018
10-LED BARAGRAPH SIGNAL PROCESSING
FEB 2018
TRIAC-BASED MAINS MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MAR 2018
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
MAR 2018
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
MAR 2018
HEATER CONTROLLER
APR 2018
DELUXE FREQUENCY SWITCH
MAY 2018
USB PORT PROTECTOR
MAY 2018
2 x 12V BATTERY BALANCER
MAY 2018
USB FLEXITIMER
JUNE 2018
WIDE-RANGE LC METER
JUNE 2018
WIDE-RANGE LC METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
JUNE 2018
WIDE-RANGE LC METER CLEAR CASE PIECES
JUNE 2018
TEMPERATURE SWITCH MK2
JUNE 2018
LiFePO4 UPS CONTROL SHIELD
JUNE 2018
RASPBERRY PI TOUCHSCREEN ADAPTOR (TIDE CLOCK) JULY 2018
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER
JULY 2018
BRAINWAVE MONITOR (EEG)
AUG 2018
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS
AUG 2018
DOOR ALARM
AUG 2018
PCB CODE:
04101162
01101161
01101162
05102161
16101161
07102121
07102122
11111151
05102161
04103161
03104161
04116011/2
04104161
24104161
01104161
03106161
03105161
10107161
04105161
04116061
07108161
10108161/2
07109161
05109161
25110161
16109161
16109162
11111161
01111161
07110161
05111161
04110161
01108161
11112161
11112162
04202171
16110161
19102171
09103171/2
04102171
01104171
04112162
24104171
07104171
01105171
01105172
SC4281
05105171
18106171
SC4316
18108171-4
01108171
01108172/3
SC4403
04110171
08109171
SC4444
06111171
SC4464
23112171
05111171
21110171
04101181
04101182
10102181
02104181
06101181
10104181
05104181
07105181
14106181
19106181
04106181
SC4618
SC4609
05105181
11106181
24108181
19107181
25107181
01107181
03107181
Price:
$10.00
$15.00
$20.00
$15.00
$15.00
$7.50
$7.50
$6.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00/pair
$20.00
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$2.50
$15.00
$15.00/set
$7.50
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$7.50
$12.50
$15.00
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$25.00
$20.00
$20.00/pair
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$25.00
$25.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
LOOKING FOR TECHNICAL BOOKS? YOU’LL FIND THE COMPLETE LISTING OF ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE IN THE BOOKS & DVDs” PAGES AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
GPS or WiFi (NTP) clock using a PIC and an LCD screen
This simple project uses either a
GPS module or a WiFi-equipped microcontroller module to give an accurate time and date display on a 16x2
alphanumeric LCD.
You can use just about any GPS
module, as it extracts the time and
date from the standard NMEA serial
stream. Or you can use an ESP8266
microcontroller module with WiFi to
emulate a GPS module while getting
the time and date from internet time
servers using NTP.
This latter method was described in
detail in the April 2018 issue; see the
article titled "The Clayton’s 'GPS' time
signal generator" (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11039).
The circuit is built around IC1, a
PIC16F88 microcontroller. The serial
output of the GPS module or WeMos
module is fed to input pin 8 (RB2). If
using a GPS module, it must use a TTL
serial interface.
Software running on IC1, written
in PICBASIC Pro, decodes the NMEA
serial data and extracts the UTC time
84
Silicon Chip
and date. It then applies the time zone
offset for NSW/ACT/Vic/Tas and corrects for daylight saving.
The time and date are then sent to
the 16x2 alphanumeric LCD module
via a 4-bit data bus from digital outputs RA0-RA3 (pins 17, 18, 1 & 2).
Output RA4 (pin 3) is used to drive
the Register Select line (pin 4) of the
LCD while output RB3 (pin 9) drives
the enable line.
The LCD backlight is permanently
powered via a 270W resistor from the
+9V supply rail (to reduce dissipation
in the 5V regulator) while contrast is
adjusted using trimpot VR1. The unused pins of the LCD module are connected to ground.
Microcontroller IC1 has a 20MHz
crystal oscillator and load capacitors
connected between pins 15 and 16 in
order to provide an accurate processor
clock rate to get the correct serial port
baud rate. Power is from a 9V battery
and its output is regulated to 5V by a
7805 regulator.
The WeMos D1 Mini can draw a
Australia’s electronics magazine
fairly substantial current, so the regulator is fitted with a small heatsink.
This may not be necessary when using a GPS module.
Also, 1A schottky diode D1 is provided to reduce dissipation in the WeMos module's onboard 3.3V regulator.
While a GPS module will work with
D1 in the circuit, it isn't required.
I have designed a small PCB for this
project and the pattern can be downloaded from the Silicon Chip website,
along with the BASIC source code and
HEX file.
The PIC16F88 can be programmed
using the HEX file with most PIC programmers. The result is quite a compact unit.
Note that if you wanted to get the
correct time outside one of the states
mentioned earlier, you would need to
modify the time zone settings in the
BASIC source code and generate a new
HEX file. You would need a copy of
PICBASIC Pro to do this.
Les Kerr,
Ashby, NSW. ($60)
siliconchip.com.au
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to feature it in Circuit Notebook. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to your
PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online
Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
36/48V 50A Charger Controller for golf carts etc
These small changes allow the 50A
Battery Charge Controller to be used
with a 36 or 48V lead-acid battery and
charger, which are commonly used in
golf carts. The Charge Controller was
originally published in the November 2016 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10413).
The November 2016 design was
suitable for 12V and 24V batteries, selected by fitting a shorting block onto
one side of header JP1. The changes
described here make the 12V setting
suitable for 36V batteries and the 24V
setting suitable for 48V.
The changed components are highlighted in red on the circuit diagram.
Seven resistor values change, including the three resistors associated with
siliconchip.com.au
JP1 and four associated with test points
TP1 and TP2. These changes affect the
division ratios in these resistive dividers, to compensate for the battery
having a higher voltage (eg, 48V compared to 24V).
Other changes involve cutting two
tracks and soldering zener diodes
ZD2 and ZD3 in series with regulators
REG1 and REG2 respectively. The zeners reduce the input voltages to the
regulators to keep them within their
maximum ratings and also share the
increased dissipation.
You could avoid cutting the PCB
track to REG1 by fitting an LM317HV
(high voltage version) instead and
omitting the zener but it would run
hotter and you would also need to in-
Australia’s electronics magazine
crease the voltage ratings of ZD1 (to
around 59V) and its parallel 470µF
capacitor (to at least 63V). Unfortunately, though, there are no suitable
high-voltage alternatives for REG2.
With the changes shown here, the
set-up and adjustment procedures are
almost identical but note the new settings for JP1 and the re-assignment of
TP1 and TP2. The only change in the
set-up procedure is that the voltages
at TP1 and TP2 now read as one-hundredth of the threshold setting, rather
than one-tenth.
So for example, to set the fully
charged voltage for a 48V battery to
57.6V, adjust VR2 to get a reading at
TP2 of 0.576V.
Silicon Chip
August 2018 85
Measuring air pollution with an Arduino-based module
Particulate pollution can cause serious lung problems, ranging from asthma (short-term exposure) to lung cancer (long-term exposure). So you need
to keep your exposure to airborne particles below the recommended limits.
But how do you know how what your
exposure is? You can't sense very small
airborne particles.
The circuit shown here can accurately measure the level of small airborne particles in its vicinity. The total
cost of the parts is only about $50, not
including the power supply.
It's particularly useful if you live in
(or spend time in) a city with a constant low-level pollution problem,
as is quite common in many Asian
countries (including the sub-continent
where the Author lives).
Particles with a diameter below 10
micrometres are known as PM10 while
those with a diameter below 2.5 micrometres are called PM2.5. PM10 pollution is bad because the particles can
lodge deep in your lungs but PM2.5 is
even more insidious as it can actually
86
Silicon Chip
pass into the bloodstream.
Sources of PM10 and PM2.5 pollution include crushing and grinding
operations, vehicle exhaust, vehicle
brake and tyre particles, industrial
pollution including smoke from coal
power plants, wood burning, bushfires
and fertiliser dust.
The recommended limit for exposure to PM10 (averaged over 24 hours)
is 150µg/m3 while the recommended
limit for PM2.5 is 35µg/m3.
Circuit operation
Detection of PM10 and PM2.5 pollution is accomplished using a Nova
SDS011 Air Quality Sensor. It operates
from a 5V supply and the sensor output
is sent over a serial (RS-232 compatible) interface. Its measurement resolution is 0.3µg/m3.
The particulate level measurements
from the SDS011 sensor vary depending on relative humidity, therefore the
design includes a BME280 barometer/
thermometer/relative humidity sensor
to compensate the measurements. This
Australia’s electronics magazine
communicates with the Arduino using
an I2C serial bus.
Both sensors are monitored using
an Arduino-compatible ESP32 module with WiFi. This is also connected
to a 128x128 colour OLED display,
which is used to display the measurement results.
That connection is made using an
SPI serial bus, along with CS (chip
select) and A0 (address) lines, which
are driven by digital outputs on the
ESP32 module.
NPN transistor Q1 is used to switch
power to the SDS011 module so that
it's only powered up when necessary.
The only other components in the circuit are its 470W base current limiting
resistor and a 10µF bypass capacitor
for the SDS011 module.
USB power (5V) is fed directly to
the ESP32 module and it powers that
module, including its onboard microcontroller, as well as the SDS011 sensor, via its Vin power pin. The output
of its onboard 3.3V regulator powers
the BME280 module and OLED screen.
siliconchip.com.au
To make the sensor portable, you
could use a USB power bank. Or if
you want it to run continuously in a
remote location, you could use one of
the Elecrow Solar Charger modules
(Silicon Chip Cat SC4307/4308) along
with a lithium-ion or lithium-polymer
cell and a small solar panel. These
boards have a USB socket which can
power the ESP32 board using a standard USB cable.
Software
There is an Arduino library available for interfacing with the SDS011
but it relies on the SoftwareSerial
library, which doesn't work properly
with the ESP32.
The ESP32 has three hardware serial ports so I decided to modify the
library to use one of these instead, using the HardwareSerial object rather
than SoftwareSerial.
The modified library is supplied
in the download package (in the
file "processdata.h"), along with the
Arduino sketch code. Communication
is via the second serial port which uses
the TX2 and RX2 lines.
The SDS011 module has a specified sleep current of 2mA but when I
sent sleep commands to my module,
the supply current didn't drop consistently. That is why NPN transistor
Q1 is used to disconnect the module's
ground connection when it is not being used. This is controlled using digital output D13, with a high level on
that pin enabling power to the sensor.
As well as the pollution levels being displayed on the OLED screen,
they are also uploaded to the cloud
data service website, ThingSpeak. See
the article "Logging data to the 'net using Arduino", starting on page 92 of
the September 2017 issue for details
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10804).
This means that you can position
this unit remotely, as long as it has
power and access to a WiFi network,
then view a plot of the pollution levels over time from anywhere via the
internet.
Software set-up
We previously explained how to set
up a ThingSpeak account in the February 2018 article titled "Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi". For details on how
to set up an account, see siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10963
Once you have set up an account on
the thingspeak.com website and cresiliconchip.com.au
The finished particulate monitor will display the PM2.5 & PM10 reading (µg/m3),
the relative humidity (%), altitude (m), pressure (mbar) and temperature (°C).
ated a "channel", you will have a channel ID and write API key. You can then
set up and name the eight data streams
within that channel. Use the following names (or something similar) for
channels 1-5: "PM2.5 (µg/m3)", "PM10
(µg/m3)", "Temperature (C)", "Atmospheric Pressure (hPa)" and "Relative
Humidity (%)".
You also need to have a recent version of the Arduino IDE installed on
your system (Windows, macOS or
Linux), along with the ESP32 Board
files. The procedure to install these
required board files is given at the
following link: siliconchip.com.au/
link/aaiw
Now edit the Arduino sketch
("ESP32_SDS011_BME280_thingspeak.ino"). About twenty lines down
from the top of the file, there are a
number of parameters that you need
to change.
These include your WiFi network
Australia’s electronics magazine
SSID ("ssid") and password ("pass"),
your ThingSpeak channel number
("myChannelNumber"), and its write
API key ("myWriteAPIKey").
Having wired up the modules as
shown in the circuit diagram and
plugged the ESP32 board into your
PC, ensure the correct port number is
selected in the Tools → Port menu and
that the correct board type is selected
under the Tools → Board menu (eg,
"ESP32 Dev Module" or "DOIT ESP32
DEVKIT V1"). Then select the Sketch
→ Upload option.
The programming process takes
around 15-30 seconds and once it is
finished, the unit should spring into
life. As well as viewing the data on the
OLED screen and via thingspeak.com,
you can also see the sensor output by
selecting the Tools → Serial Monitor
menu option.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($90)
August 2018 87
Dual high-power sinewave generator
This dual Wien-bridge circuit using
the L272M power op amp is designed
mainly for testing and characterising
public address systems, intercoms
and the like.
It can produce sinewaves over a
range of frequencies, with enough
power to drive long lines, 600W transformers, 100V transformers and the
like.
The L272M is mainly used in control applications such as for servos,
motors in CD/DVD/Blu-ray players
and so on.
However, it can also be used for
other purposes. It has an output current of up to 1A, a gain-bandwidth
product of 350kHz, can run off supply rails between ±2V and ±14V and
has a specified audio distortion level
of 0.5%, which is good enough for
voice systems.
OUT1 can be configured to produce
a 300Hz or 1kHz signal while OUT2
88
Silicon Chip
can be configured to produce a 2kHz
or 3.3kHz signal.
This is selected by switch S1 for
OUT1 and S2 for OUT2. They change
the component values in the Wienbridge oscillator circuits built around
IC1a and IC1b. Potentiometer VR1 varies the level of OUT1 while VR2 varies the level of OUT2.
The challenge with an oscillator
is that you want substantial positive
feedback for fast and reliable start-up,
but the feedback needs to drop back
to unity gain once oscillation has been
established in order to prevent the circuit overloading and the output signal becoming very distorted and possibly shifting away from the desired
frequency.
One of the tricks used with a Wien
bridge in the oscillator configuration is to replace one of the resistive
parts of the bridge with an incandescent lamp.
Australia’s electronics magazine
This acts as a resistor but as the lamp
warms up, its resistance decreases and
that will then have the effect of reducing the gain as the oscillator output
amplitude increases.
This gain stabilisation is what allows
the circuit to produce a clean sinewave.
The resistors and capacitor pairs in
the Wien bridge circuit are of equal value across the two sides of the bridge,
however, this is not a strict requirement, it simply makes the calculations easier.
While the circuit uses fixed values,
you could connect potentiometers in
series with the resistors to adjust the
frequencies.
A dual-gang potentiometer, to vary
the halves of the bridge together,
would probably give a wider range of
adjustment.
Each oscillator output has a Zobel network for stability (required for
many "power op amps"), comprising
siliconchip.com.au
a 1W resistor in series with a 100nF
capacitor.
Each oscillator has a direct output,
as well as outputs with 1/10th and
1/100th of the full amplitude.
Note that these attenuated outputs
have a much higher impedance and
so will not supply anywhere near as
much current or power as the unattenuated outputs.
A mixed output is also available, at
OUT3, combining the signals of the
two oscillators using two 300W resistors. Its level is adjustable using potentiometer VR3.
The circuit is powered from unregulated split rails (eg, the rectified output of a transformer) at +Vin and -Vin,
regulated to ±12V by linear regulators
REG1 and REG2. Or you can feed in
already regulated split rails at +Vin2
and -Vin2.
As indicated on the circuit diagram, you can use various small incandescent lamp globes for LAMP1
and LAMP2, including 6V/20mA
(120mW), 6V/40mA (240mW) and
12V/20mA (240mW) types.
Petre Petrov,
Sofia, Bulgaria. ($50)
DIY magnetic connectors
Years ago, Jaycar used to have very
useful magnetic electrical connectors.
They were great for testing AA and
AAA cells and 9V batteries. Unfortunately, they are no longer available.
Recently, I was browsing eBay and
I found some 5 x 5 x 5mm neodymium rare earth magnets and wondered
whether I could solder wires to them.
They only cost $2 for 10 magnets so
I decided to take a punt. When they
arrived, I found them quite easy to tin
and solder to. So I set about making
my own magnetic connectors.
I stripped some solid core hookup
wire (also known as "Bell" wire, in this
case, stripped from some old four-wire
phone cable) and tinned the ends. I
also tinned a small spot on each magnet (see photograph below).
I found the best way to do this was
with a very hot iron used quickly. This
avoids overheating and demagnetising
the magnet. Attaching the magnet to a
large piece of ferrous material will help
to draw heat away from it and hold it
in place while it is soldered.
Interestingly, my old Scope iron
worked best as its copper tip doesn't
get grabbed by the magnet, unlike the
iron tip on my Hakko.
I carefully bent the short end of the
copper wire then quickly soldered it
to a magnet. As you can see from the
photograph to the right, these magnetic
connectors mate perfectly to AA cells
and there is no tendency for them to
fall off; it takes some force to pull them
off the cell.
If you have a 3D printer, you can
make my "Universal Magnetic Connector". The design is available from
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2825640
You can find the eBay listing for
the magnets at www.ebay.com.au/
itm/253151008050 ("10pcs N42 Cube
Super Strong Magnetic Neodymium
Rare Earth Magnets Block 5x5x5mm").
Geoff Cohen,
Nelson Bay, NSW. ($60)
Shown right are the tinned magnets
attached to a battery to help measure
its voltage.
Two pairs of magnets used to create
a locking door on a 3D printer with
power fed through (shown slightly
larger than life size).
The neodymium magnets are tinned
with a small amount of solder and
then attached to hookup wire.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 89
Vintage Radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
AWA 1963 model B13
stereogram
If you watch
the popular
“Endeavour”
detective series
on ABC TV, you
will know that the
young D.S. Morse
is a classical music
enthusiast who listens
to LP records on a portable
record player similar to the
AWA model featured here. The series
is set in the 1960s when valves still ruled
and stereo sound was the latest “big thing”.
The 1960s were the best of times in
many ways. If we take Charles Dickens’
introduction to A Tale of Two Cities
then we can also reflect on the 1960s
as the worst of times. Russia and the
USA were engaged in a cold war that
looked like it could annihilate the
planet in nuclear war. Many people
built bomb shelters.
On the other hand, the youth of that
time were the most liberated generation that the planet had seen. The post
war baby boom had produced prosperity and teenagers who revelled in
rock and roll, songs of protest, listening to the top 40 and buying 45 RPM
records. And LP record albums were
coming out in stereo.
With rising interest in stereo sound,
it is not surprising that all major radio manufacturers in Australian were
90
Silicon Chip
making stereograms both in portable
and furniture format that were more
affordable than the radiograms that
parents previously aspired to have in
their lounge room.
Portability was a new feature that
departed from the tablegrams manufactured in the 40s and 50s. Teenagers could take their music with them
to party with friends.
AWA, who manufactured the portable stereogram featured in this article, was the largest electronics manufacturer in Australia in 1963. Following behind them was Astor, Kriesler
and HMV, all of whom offered similar portables.
Examples from Astor, Kriesler and
HMV in the author’s collection are
shown in this article. They all have
timber cabinets covered in fabric or
Australia’s electronics magazine
leatherette, with a carry handle for
transport like a suitcase.
In 1963 it still made sense to purchase a valve unit, relative to the new
transistor technology. The valve units
arguably sounded better and produced
higher volume.
Idler wheel
The AWA unit featured here performs well as a radio but it has a problem that is common to all record players of this vintage which have idlerdriven turntables. The idler wheel is
placed between the stepped spindle
of the turntable motor and the inside
rim of the turntable. After 50 years or
more, the idler wheel will be either
perished or seriously cracked.
In some cases after many years of
disuse, the idler wheel may be so badsiliconchip.com.au
The AWA B13 has a hand-span tuning dial with stations for all Australian
states. Note the combined tone control and power switch.
ly perished that it is a glutinous mass
stuck to inside rim of the turntable.
Or maybe the idler wheel has been
left engaged for many years and now
has a serious flat spot. If you do manage to get it to run, it will have intolerable wow.
In all these cases you need to obtain
a replacement idler wheel before you
can restore the record player function.
That is just the first hurdle. You will
find there are a number of online companies that can either replace or make
new idler wheels but they are based
in the USA and the cost will be high.
If you are handy with a lathe and
can source rubber discs of the right
consistency, such as cistern rubber
parts from hardware supplier Bunnings, you make may able to make a
new idler wheel.
Of course, you will also need to
source a new replacement cartridge.
Record players of this era used turnover crystal or ceramic (piezoelectric) cartridges with two styli, one
for playing 78 RPM records and one
for playing 45 RPM and 33 RPM
vinyl records.
It is most unlikely that any 60-year
old crystal cartridge will still work
and even if it did, the styli are likely to be seriously worn or broken off.
Fortunately, a range of these cartridges
are available for most record changers used at the time, such as BSR and
Collaro.
At the time of writing this story,
I had not been able to do anything
about the record changer and its idler
wheel and cartridge. Instead, I concentrated my efforts on restoring the
cabinet and chassis.
siliconchip.com.au
Valve radio technology was mature
in the early 1960s and this AWA set
follows a well established format and
valve complement. Somewhat surprising is the omission of a ferrite aerial.
Instead, the front end has a conventional aerial coil needing an external loop antenna. Because of the
area available below the turntable, a
loop antenna has been stapled to the
plywood base.
Circuit design
This is really an AM tuner with an
integrated stereo amplifier. The circuit
is quite simple with a line-up of just
six valves: a 6BE6 pentagrid converter (mixer oscillator), a 6N8 doublediode pentode, a 12AX7 twin triode,
two 6AQ5 pentodes and a 6X4 full
wave rectifier.
The signal from the loop antenna
is fed into the aerial coil (T1) which
supplies the grid of the 6BE6 and coil
L2 is configured as a Hartley oscillator, with the oscillator signal fed into
pin 2 of the same valve. Both the aerial and oscillator coils are tuned by the
2-section tuning gang.
The 455kHz difference signal from
the 6BE6 converter appears at the plate
and is tuned by the first IF transformer
T2. Its secondary is fed to the grid (pin
2) of the 6N8 whereupon it is amplified and appears at the plate (pin 6) of
the 6N8 to be tuned by the second IF
transformer T3.
The two diodes in the 6N8 generate
the AGC signal and perform demodulation. The 455kHz signal from the
plate (pin 6) is fed via capacitor C22
to the diode at pin 8 and the resulting
negative voltage is fed to the control
Australia’s electronics magazine
Two of these three portable
radiograms of the period were stereo,
both with a second channel speaker in
the lid which had to be detached for
listening to records. The three models
shown above are a 1964 Astor G10L,
1955 Kriesler model 11-76 and 1966
HMV Bahama O3-8K.
August 2018 91
92
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The tuner circuit is quite conventional, with the two diodes in the 6N8 valve used for demodulation and generating the AGC control voltage. Note the Baxandall tone
control which provides treble boost and cut. Bass boost was not available in most portables because of the risk of acoustic feedback to the turntable.
grid of the 6BE6 via resistors R9 and
R1 while the 6N8 gets its AGC via R9
and the secondary of transformer T2.
Strong signals generate a negative AGC
voltage and lower the gain of the 6BE6
and 6N8.
At the same time, the modulated
455kHz signal from the secondary
winding of T3 is fed to pin 7 of the 6N8
and the resulting demodulated signal
appears at the secondary of T3 across
filter capacitor C23. Further filtering
is provided by T6 and C19.
The radio/phono pickup selector
switch SW1 feeds the demodulated
(mono) signal from the tuner (or the
stereo signals from the ceramic cartridge) to the 2-channel audio amplifier. In the latter mode, the 90V supply the screens to the 6BE6 and 6N8
is disconnected to prevent radio station break-through when listening to
records.
The separate signals from the selector switch to the amplifier channels
are fed via 470kW resistors (R5 & R8)
to the balance control potentiometer
R7 and then to the separate volume
controls.
The chassis is crammed into the front of the case and the two audio out
transformers hang off the rear. The orange wire is the aerial loop.
Stereo amplifier
The 2-channel audio amplifier consists of a 12AX7 high gain twin triode
feeding into two 6AQ5 pentode output
valves. This well-tried combination
was ultimately replaced in later radios by the 6GW8 triode pentode valve.
When playing records, the speaker in the lid became the right-hand
channel while the speaker in the front
of the cabinet became the left-hand
channel.
In each channel, negative feedback
from the secondary winding of the
output transformer was applied via
C37 (C38), R29 (R30) and R15 (R17)
to the bottom leg of the 1MW volume
control (RM11A/B). The feedback signal is also applied to the tone control
network involving 500kW dual-gang
potentiometer R20A (R20B), via R21
(R22).
The resulting tone control gives variable treble boost or cut and this must
be one of the first instances of a Baxandall tone control stage in valve consumer equipment. Prior to this, tone
controls in valve amplifiers tended to
be passive networks.
Note that the DPST mains switch is
integral to the stereo tone control potentiometer, not the volume control.
Interestingly, the primary windsiliconchip.com.au
This view shows the front of the chassis which has a cutout section on the
left to accommodate the front-mounted speaker.
The chassis layout is on a paper label on the base of the cabinet. Note the
pilot lamp which provides illumination behind the circular dial.
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 93
This metal plate carries the isolating
capacitors for the external aerial and
the RCA socket for the lid-mounted
loudspeaker.
ing of the power transformer has a
tap to cater for mains voltages of 200230VAC or 230-260VAC. That voltage
range is appropriate today since domestic solar panels commonly now
boost the mains voltage in some areas
to well over 250VAC.
The chassis of the unit has been
crammed into the front of the case as
can be seen on the previous page. The
orange wire used for the loop antenna
can be seen connected to the aerial coil
in the photograph showing the front
of the chassis (right hand side in the
photograph).
The end of the loop antenna terminates at the back of the cabinet in a trio
of connections for aerial, earth and the
left-hand speaker.
The photograph above of the back
panel plate shows C1 and C2, both low
voltage ceramic 4.7nF disc capacitors,
which couple signals to the external
aerial and earth. Adjacent to the aerial and earth is the RCA socket for the
left-hand speaker, which is mounted
in the removable lid.
The RCA socket was loose and making poor earth contact so it was anchored with solder. The internal socket sheath that makes contact with the
central RCA pin had expanded and
was making unreliable contact.
Fortunately, it was possible to use
a small precision screwdriver to close
up the socket sheath and restore reliable connection. The rear panel also
has R32 (220W) that acts as a dummy
load if the extension speaker is not
plugged in.
Restoration
At the time this unit was purchased
through eBay, the author was timepoor. One aspect of the transaction
that did not take much time was the
collection of the unit.
Against the odds the seller worked
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Silicon Chip
in the building opposite the author’s.
Sometimes the stories that go with acquiring a vintage radio make the radio
far more interesting.
There was no great story to be told
when I collected this one. At home
the unit performed feebly but at least
showed that it could work. The high
tension was measured at 62V so even
achieving feeble operation was remarkable. It stayed on a shelf for ten
years, always niggling at me ever so
slightly.
Then the Historical Radio Society
of Australia (HRSA) published a series of eight circuit books, including
the AWA model B13 in book number
four. The books are of valve radio circuits, all edited by Philip Leahy (see
www.hrsa.asn.au/books/index.htm).
They are only for purchase by HRSA
members, but annual membership is a
modest $40 and includes four editions
of the HRSA journal Radio Waves.
Collectively the HRSA circuits extend well beyond the scope and time
covered by the Australian Official Radio Service Manuals, covering from
1935 to 1955.
With a circuit in hand, and no longer
so time-challenged, the time came to
restore this unit. Removing the chassis
is straightforward but tedious due to
the large number of screws involved.
The skinny chassis with a slightly
flared front section and output transformers on the rear is unstable in any
position except upright.
Working conveniently underneath
the chassis necessitated some sort of
stable support, so fabricating a jig was
the first task. A tripod arrangement, as
shown above, worked well.
The high tension was 62V, just as
measured a decade before and the
power consumption was low at 23W.
The first thought was that a paper capacitor decoupling high tension to
valve plates or screens had become
leaky and was dragging the voltage
down.
None of the relevant capacitors
were getting warm but that can be
misleading when only 62V (or less) is
involved. The decoupling capacitors
were replaced with the result being
absolutely no difference.
The first HT filter electrolytic was
getting slightly warm, but hindsight
suggested that this was because of
proximity to resistors that were warm.
Replacement of the suspicious electrolytic did nothing.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Looking intently below
the chassis can obscure
problems that reside above
the chassis. Taking a peek
above chassis showed that
the 6X4 rectifier had been
“cooked” with a brown
stain on the inside of the
envelope; a characteristic
of valves that have been
overloaded and dissipated
intense heat.
A replacement 6X4
brought about a dramatic
improvement. The high tension rose to 180V DC (it should be
220-230V) and power consumption
rose from 23W to 62W.
The audio output level was still a
bit low and the sound was distorted.
Measuring the grid bias to the 6AQ5
output valves was the final clue to
the core problem that had disabled
this set.
The bias was a negligible -0.3V, driving the 6AQ5 valves into high conduction, explaining why the original 6X4
had been destroyed.
Bias resistor R25 had fallen from
120W to 70W and was replaced. This
could not account for all of the degradation of the bias voltage so it was a
matter of replacing the usual suspects
– the coupling capacitors between the
12AX7 and the 6AQ5s.
In most sets I would have done this
routinely but this one has a metal plate
installed over the socket of the 12AX7
as a shield against noise signals entering the preamplifier.
Removing the plate allowed access
to the tag strip holding the two coupling capacitors. One of the two capacitors was buried and could not be
conveniently removed, so a pig-tail
was snipped to take it out of circuit.
With both C32 & C33 replaced, the
set came to life. Power consumption
decreased from 62W to 47W and the
6AQ5 bias measured a reassuring
-8.7V, perfect for producing undistorted sound. HT values were spot on to
the values given in the AWA circuit.
After that, it worked well.
The sound quality is surprisingly
rich and satisfying but it is also a bit
strange at first because sound from
the two channels comes from the
front and top of the unit when the
lid is down.
But in practice, that’s not how you
would listen to this unit because the
rear speaker needs to be tilted up to
siliconchip.com.au
access and use the turntable. If you
played a record with the lid lowered,
this would result in howl due to the
proximity of the speaker to the turntable.
These portable record players
proved to be a transitory technology.
In 1963, the year this record player was
made, Philips introduced the compact
cassette tape for dictation machines
with no idea that this would become
the portable music technology of the
immediate future (see the June 2018
article by Ian Batty; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11136).
On the other hand, the large console-style radiogram was superseded
by the stereogram, having two loudspeakers in the one cabinet, but these
were ultimately superseded by home
entertainment centres combining AM/
FM stereo tuners plus CD, tape cassette
and record players.
And now, all of those have been
largely consigned to the rubbish heap
of technology by tablets and smartphones.
SC
Working on the upturned chassis is tricky without a tripod arrangement to
prevent the valves being damaged.
This photo of the chassis after restorations shows that most of the components are reasonably accessible from
undearneath the chassis. The repair consisted of replacing the two coupling capacitors (C32/33) and the bias resistor
(R25), with the 6X4 rectifier valve replaced on the top of the chassis. Note the DPST mains switch on the rear of the dual
ganged tone control potentiometer.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 95
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
How to listen to a Smart
TV with hearing aids
I am looking for information on how
to connect a transmitter to my Smart
TV so that I can listen to it using my
hearing aids.
I have a selector switch on my left
hearing aid that I can switch to listen to
T-coil public address type systems. As
is typical of many modern TVs, mine
does not have RCA analog outputs. (L.
N., King Creek, NSW)
• You haven’t given us a brand or
model number for your Smart TV but
they almost universally have headphone sockets.
It is not necessary to connect headphones via a cable. You can connect
a Bluetooth transmitter (available for
a few dollars from eBay) to your TV’s
headphone output socket and then listen with battery-powered Bluetooth
headphones. The headphones need to
be paired with the transmitter before
you can use them.
Mind you, using the headphone
socket on your TV normally disables
the TVs internal speakers and that is
a problem if someone else is watching
TV with you. In that case, you may
need to purchase a small DAC, which
you can connect to the TV’s digital
audio output (TOSLINK or S/PDIF).
Jaycar has two suitable units, Cat AC1715 or AC-1633 (see page 451 of the
2018 Jaycar catalog).
You can then use a cable with stereo RCA plugs on one end and a stereo
3.5mm plug on the other to connect
the DAC output to a Bluetooth audio
transmitter.
If you want to use the T-coil (Telecoil) facility on your earphones, you
would need to install a hearing loop
in your listening room (either around
the skirting boards or underneath the
floor). This loop will need to be driven by an audio amplifier and to obtain
the audio signal to drive it from your
smart TV, you will need a DAC module as described above.
To find out more about installing
hearing loops, you should refer to the
96
Silicon Chip
articles on this topic in the September & October 2010 issues of Silicon
Chip; see siliconchip.com.au/Series/11
AM transmitter
oscillator not running
I have just completed the AM Radio
Transmitter from the March 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11004)
and used your recommended metal
film resistors and NP0 ceramic capacitors. I followed the assembly very carefully and the checkout and adjustment
procedure slowly and painfully but it
does not work.
All the voltages seem to be within
reason. I found that the 2.2MW resistor was connected to the collector of
Q2, and not to the base on the printed board. This now rectified. Is this a
double-sided board?
I see no waveform from the Q1 oscillator at the junction of T1 and the
4.7nF capacitor. There’s no modulation on pin 1 of IC1 and obviously
none on pin 12. I have checked all
solder joints and they appear to be OK
Any help would be appreciated. I
have found this to be one of the most
frustrating projects to fault-find. A
friend recently built this project and
also had much difficulty in getting it
to operate but finally, he has. (R. W.,
Brisbane, Qld)
• The PCB is a single-sided design, ie,
there are tracks on one side only. But
it is manufactured as a double-sided
board since the cost is the same and
this gives more secure solder joints due
to the plated through-holes.
You are right that there is an error
in the board design where the 2.2MW
resistor was wired up incorrectly
and your fix sounds correct. No other
changes should be necessary.
If you are checking for an oscillator waveform with an oscilloscope,
the first place to check is at pin 10 of
IC1. This is the output of the carrier
oscillator.
There will be no modulation at pin
1 unless you have connected an audio
source to the stereo input socket and
Australia’s electronics magazine
VR2 is adjusted accordingly. Of course,
you should have initially checked that
the supply voltage is correct at 12V and
it present on the collectors of Q1 & Q2.
The Q1 oscillator is a semi-independent part of the circuit and is critical for transmitter operation. If this oscillator is not running then the transmitter cannot possibly work.
That it is not running suggests a
problem with either Q1 or T1 or perhaps a bad connection to one of the
passive components. Please check for
12V at the collector of Q1. The base
should also be close to 12V if it is not
oscillating.
If it still won’t oscillate, try replacing Q1. You could remove the 4.7nF
capacitor coupling the output of T1 to
IC1 to separate the oscillator so you
can test it in isolation, but really, that
should not be necessary.
Bug in OLED NTP
Clock code
I am writing regarding the Circuit
Notebook item on the OLED NTP Clock
on page 82 of the February 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10975).
This is based on an ESP32 module which is programmed using the
Arduino IDE.
I built the circuit and uploaded the
sketch (which I got from your website)
but I could not get it to connect to the
internet until I took out the comment
symbols (//) at the start of this line:
// WiFi.begin(ssid, password);
Once that was done, it worked immediately. If you make this change in
the sketch that is available on your
website, it should help others who are
building this circuit.
Why was this line commented out?
I would like to thank the author of the
article, Bera Somnath. This is my first
time using an ESP module. I think it
has lots of possibilities. (P. S., Narrogin, WA)
• While it is true that removing the
comments from that line will make
the software work, the bug is actually
siliconchip.com.au
elsewhere and that change simply covers it up. The real problem is with the
line that reads:
counter = preferences.getUInt
(“counter”, 0);
It should actually read:
counter = preferences.getUInt
(“counter”, 1);
This sets the correct default value of
the “counter” variable so that it knows
which wireless network it should be
connecting to the first time the sketch
is loaded.
But if you’re only using a single
wireless network (rather than the primary and alternative intended in the
original software) then your solution
should work just as well.
Source of Super-7
AM Radio parts
I recently started collecting parts
for the Super-7 AM Radio project (November-December 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/321) and while I enjoy
the detective work involved in sourcing parts that are not identified by the
company and part number in the parts
list, I have been unable to identify the
100mm speaker.
The pictures on pages 69 and 72
of the December 2017 issue show a
speaker with a round mounting flange.
The equivalent speakers from Jaycar
and Altronics all seem to have a rectangular flange so would not be suit-
able. What speaker have you used in
this project?
Also, in the picture on page 66 of the
December 2017 issue, a large knob is
shown on the “hand span” dial. This
is not included in the parts list and I
cannot determine how it is secured.
Please advise.
Another minor point – while the majority of critical parts have company/
part number listed, the speaker and
potentiometer (R2253?) do not. (N. U.,
Strathfield, NSW)
• The speaker John used was a Jaycar part, catalog code AS3008. Some
parts that Jaycar sells under that catalog code look different (they have a rectangular surround) but they still fit the
PCB. The knob is Jaycar Cat HK7011.
It has been glued on to the dial.
The reason that a specific part number was not given for the speaker is
that there are numerous speakers that
could be used from various sources but
the Jaycar part is definitely suitable.
Altronics Cat C0616 or C0626 look
like they will also fit but we haven’t
tried them.
The potentiometer is a generic part
so should not be difficult to find. For
example, Jaycar RP7610 could be used,
or Altronics R2253.
Building a Wideband
Oxygen Sensor display
I was thinking about building the
Jaycar KC5486 Wideband Fuel Mixture Controller kit. I believe it is based
on one of your designs. The problem
is that they have discontinued the
Wideband Sensor Display kit (Cat
KC5485). Is there a different display
that I could connect to the controller?
(P. A., via email)
• The KC5485 kit was based on one of
our older designs, the November 2008
Wideband Air-Fuel Mixture Display
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/2004).
This simply takes the 0-5V output
signal from a Wideband Controller and
converts it into a ratio value to display,
as well as showing the raw reading as
a bar/dot display.
We can supply a programmed PIC
for that project (Silicon Chip Online
Shop Cat SC1286) but we do not have
any PCBs. You would have to etch
your own, using the PDF pattern (Cat
SC1306).
We suggest that you instead build the
display from our more recent Wideband
Oxygen Sensor Controller Mk2, described in the June-August 2012 issues
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/23). This
should be compatible with the older
controller and the PCB (SC0666) and
programmed PIC (SC0761) are available from our Online Shop.
Commercial 0-5V wideband displays are available, however, they are
quite expensive; from about $160 up
to over $500!
You may want to build the Mk2 controller as it uses the superior Bosch
LSU4.9 sensor and also includes the
option for sensing exhaust gas pressure. We can also supply the PCB (Cat
High mains voltages causing equipment damage
I have been having trouble with
some of my electronic devices. Some
ICs in my Sony amplifier failed recently and a two-year-old Panasonic
PVR has also malfunctioned.
I suspect that both are related
to the mains voltage supplied to
our house. Generally, it is above
250VAC. This morning, I measured
it as 254V with a multimeter, 252V
with a Powermate Lite and 248V
with a True RMS multimeter.
Can you suggest a simple way of
regulating the voltage to my electronic devices so as to keep the voltage around 230V?
I was considering some sort
of voltage-sensing device which
switched in and out a resistive load,
siliconchip.com.au
however, I am not sure whether this
would be practical. (B. D., Mount
Hunter, NSW)
• This problem is now very common, with rooftop solar power generation boosting the mains voltage
above 250VAC during the day.
While using a regulated AC mains
supply would be the ideal solution,
they are very expensive. A simpler
and much cheaper approach is to
use a step-down autotransformer to
reduce the incoming mains voltage
down to about 220VAC.
This entails wiring a transformer
with a 30V secondary winding so
that it is connected as a 250V to 220V
autotransformer. We showed how
to do this with the Mains ModeraAustralia’s electronics magazine
tor project in the March 2011 issue.
We used a multi-tapped 60VA
transformer from Jaycar, Cat MM2005. If you want to use a bigger
transformer, consider this 100VA
unit from Altronics: Cat M2170L.
You can see a free preview of
the article at siliconchip.com.au/
Article/938
By the way, since the Australian
mains standard is 230VAC+10%/6%, technically any voltage in the
range of 216-253V is considered acceptable.
Unfortunately, as you have discovered, many components designed for
230/240VAC are rated up to 250VAC,
although 275VAC-rated devices are
becoming more commonplace.
August 2018 97
Super-7 AM Radio coil colours
I am building the Super-7 AM Radio project from the November and
December 2017 issues.
I purchased the coil pack from
Jaycar, Cat LF1050, to obtain transformers T2-T5. The pack contains
four transformer coils, colour coded
red, white, yellow and black.
The circuit diagram on pages 48
and 49 of the November 2017 issue
calls for T2 to be red, T3 and T4 to
SC0667) and programmed PIC (Cat
SC0760) for this unit. The rest of the
parts can be obtained from Jaycar/Altronics and the suppliers listed in the
parts list.
You would also need a copy of the
relevant articles for the parts list (June
2012), assembly instructions (July
2012) and installation/operation details (August 2012).
Modern TVs lack
analog outputs
I am about to buy a new TV, but those
that I’ve considered don’t have the red
& white RCA sound output sockets,
for connecting to external amplifiers/
speakers, as with my old TV. Can this
situation be overcome without going
to a completely new sound system? (I.
S., Glenhaven, NSW)
• Provided your smart TV has TOSLINK or S/PDIF (coaxial) digital audio
outputs, the easy way to get the left
and right audio outputs is to obtain
a DAC module. Jaycar have several,
eg, Cat AC1715 or AC1633. They are
featured on page 451 of the 2018 Jaycar catalog.
Alternatively, if you want true hifi
sound quality, you should consider
building one of our DACs, such as the
CLASSiC DAC (February-May 2013;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/63).
Battery and cell tester
wanted
I am wondering whether there has
been a project design for intelligently
testing dry cells (and/or rechargeable
NiCad/NiMH cells) for their current
state; something more accurate than
just a voltage check. I always seem
to have AA and/or AAA cells lying
around in piles and I don’t know
98
Silicon Chip
be white and T5 to be black. Can I
use the yellow IF coil supplied in
the pack for T4? (P. V., Tarneit, Vic)
• You could do that but it may reduce the performance of the radio’s
IF section and therefore its overall
performance.
It would be better to buy two
LF1050 packs from Jaycar so that
you have white coils to use for both
T3 and T4.
whether they are good or not.
The commercial chargers that I have
are not intelligent and only light a red
LED when a cell is being charged and a
green LED when doing a pre-discharge.
They have no end-of-charge indication or an accurate cell status display.
What I would like is something like
the C-Tech 5-10 stage AGM/Calcium
automotive battery charger but designed specifically for small cells. It
would certainly be suited to a microcontroller project and would not be all
that complex, I suspect.
Thanks for a great magazine! (C. T.,
Sunnybank, Qld)
• We have published a few battery
and cell testers in the past. The only
way to accurately know the current
cell or battery state is to have a continuous monitoring of both charge (if
rechargeable) and discharge and then,
based on the capacity of the cell or battery, determine the remaining capacity.
Even so, this can be inaccurate due
to internal leakage and an actual capacity that can differ between individual cells.
This method was used in our HighCurrent, High-Voltage Battery Capacitor Meter project (June-July 2009;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/44). That
project is now quite old and we are
hoping to publish a new design relatively soon.
The other method for checking cell
condition, other than simply monitoring the voltage, is to draw a certain
amount of current and see how that affects the battery voltage.
Your enquiry does raise an interesting idea to have a cell/battery tester
that can test the voltage using a pulsed
load so that the current condition can
be checked, even if the state of discharge can only be roughly gauged.
You may wish to read our reviews
Australia’s electronics magazine
of the CBA IV Pro Battery Analyser in
the February 2015 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/8308) and the Cadex
C7400ER-C Analyser in the March
2014 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/6933). Also, see to the August
2009 Lead-Acid/SLA Battery Condition Checker project (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/1535).
Problems getting
Q-Factor Meter to work
I am having some trouble building
the Inductance & Q-Factor Meter project from the February & March 2005
issues (siliconchip.com.au/Series/85).
On the circuit diagram on page 67
of the February issue, pad number 7
of the keypad is connected to the +5V
rail but on the board, it goes to pin 11
of the micro. Which is correct?
I checked all the voltages by following the testing procedure and it is all
OK. I was able to program the chip
using the HEX file but I can’t compile
the v1.1 ASM file using AVR Studio 4.
The error I get is “p9.asm(1440): error:
.def: n2 redefinition”.
Also with the AT90S2313 which I
bought, the programmer is stating that
its an ATtiny2313; that is the ID that is
reported by the software I used (avrdude). I have tried it with a few different programs, including AVRDUDESS
and Khazama all report the same thing.
This is weird as it definitely labelled
AT90S2313.
Can an ATtiny2313 be used with this
project? I did set the “fuse” on the ATtiny2313 to allow for a 10MHz clock
input at pin 5, which was not required
with the AT90S2313. To do this, I set
the lower fuse byte to 0xE0.
The Q-Factor meter was designed
to use a Dick Smith LCD which is no
longer available. I’m using a standard 16x2 alphanumeric LCD with no
backlight. All I get on the display are
black bars. Do you think it may be an
LCD compatibility problem? (E. J. B.,
Bridgetown, WA)
• Pad 7 of the LCD is connected to
pin 11 of the micro, while pad 7 of the
keypad connector goes to the +5V rail
via a 4.7kW resistor, as shown in the
circuit diagram. We think the problem
is likely a short circuit from the solder
joint on the 4.7kW resistor from keypad
pin 7 to the adjacent pin 7 pad on the
LCD connector.
The pad is very close to the track
and a short circuit there would presiliconchip.com.au
vent the LCD from working. As far as
we can tell, the typical 16x2 alphanumeric LCD available today should be
compatible with the Dick Smith part.
It’s very strange that you have a chip
labelled AT90S2313 that is identified
as ATtiny2313. The ATtiny2313 is the
successor to the AT90S2313 but they
are certainly not the same chip. For
a list of differences, see: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aake
The code should work on the ATtiny2313 but as you remark, the fuses
will need to be set correctly. The fuse
byte value you’ve used seems correct.
As for your inability to compile the
ASM file to HEX, it looks like the error
is due to a difference in the assembler
between the one that Leonid used back
in 2005 and the one you are using now.
He has two different items in his
code called n2, one label and one
“define”. Apparently, the compiler
he used was OK with that but the one
you’re using now insists that they have
different names.
We suggest that you modify the labels in the bin_float routine to solve
this. Change the line which reads “n2:
breq n1” to “nn2: breq n1” and then
change the line which reads “rjmp
n2” to “rjmp nn2”. That should allow
you to compile it with the latest version of AVR Studio (which at the moment is v5.1).
Sourcing Currawong
output valve sockets
I am trying to build the Currawong
Stereo Valve Amplifier (November
2014-January 2015; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/277), and have sourced virtually all of the components needed,
however, one part I am having trouble finding are the valve bases for the
6L6 valves.
I already have suitable sockets for
the 12AX7 valves but can’t find the
type I need for the 6L6 valves; the ones
I bought have the mounting bracket
facing the wrong way and the pins
are not angled correctly to fit into the
holes on the PCB.
It says in the text that the bases used
are chassis-mounting, which are what
I have purchased. The PCB mounting
type apparently does not have mounting brackets which can be screwed to
the PCB. Could you suggest where I
could purchase these as I have all the
other parts already? (B. H., Hunstanton, UK)
• Altronics have them listed in their
catalog, Cat P8501 (page 319 of their
2018 catalog). See siliconchip.com.
au/link/aakc You can download page
319 from that link and it lists their full
valve line-up. The sockets you have
purchased sound like the ones that
Jaycar sells (PS2080) which are not
compatible with the Altronics parts.
Since you’re in the UK, you could
also buy the sockets from: www.
watfordvalves.com/product_detail.
asp?id=4757 or www.karltone.co.uk/
valve-tube-sockets-79-c.asp
We decided to use the Altronicssourced sockets because ceramic
valve bases have superior properties
to thermosetting plastic sockets and
the ceramic sockets have pins angled
to allow for much larger separation between the PCB pads and tracks, which
is important given the high voltages
across them.
Inconsistencies in
PICAXE dev system
I have purchased a Microchip PICkit 3 and your CP2102-based USB/TTL
serial converter and I am now about
to purchase the Oatley Electronics kit
for the PICAXE USB Development System featured in the July 2010 issue of
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Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 99
your magazine (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/218).
But I was puzzled when I saw the
data sheet for the NEC 2SK3812 Mosfet specified for that project. It has a
truncated drain (middle) pin.
How do you actually physically attach that little stump to the throughhole pads on the Development Board?
What is the reasoning behind that
when you need the three connections?
The photographs in your article and
on their website show a three-lead
TO-220 device on the board. It looks
quite different to the 2SK3812 shown
in the data sheet. What’s going on? (B.
T., Rosebud, Vic)
• That’s a real head-scratcher. The
2SK3812 specified in that project is
clearly a surface-mounting (only) Mosfet in a TO-263 (D2PAK) package. But
the photos and diagrams show a different Mosfet was used, in a TO-220
through-hole package.
The middle lead of TO-252 (D-PAK)
and TO-263 (D2PAK) SMD packages
is truncated since that connection
is made via the large tab which also
provides the thermal connection to
the PCB. This is similar to a TO-220
package, where the tab is electrically
connected to the middle pin, but the
middle pin is left intact for vertical
mounting (which is not possible with
an SMD).
Clearly it is difficult to solder an
SMD Mosfet to pads designed for
through-hole types. It would be logical if the board supplied with the kit
had a dual-purpose through-hole/
SMD mounting arrangement but that
certainly is not shown in the artwork
that we were provided for the article.
Assuming the board you receive
matches what we published, it would
probably easier to just get a suitable
through-hole N-channel Mosfet in a
TO-220 package (eg, STP16NF06, Jaycar Cat ZT2277) and use that instead.
Frypan heat controller
and pump monitor
Congratulations on 30 years of Silicon Chip magazine. It’s a great achieve-
ment. I enjoy the breadth of coverage
provided by the magazine and wish
you continued success.
I would like to know whether any
of the PWM/speed controller projects
you have produced is suitable for controlling the temperature of an electric
frypan.
While our frypan has a thermostat,
this is a rather rough temperature regulator – it turns on and boils the living
daylights out of whatever is in the pan
and then turns off and sulks for awhile
until things cool right down.
What I would like is a box I can
plug into the wall and set it to the
desired power. The electric frypan
would then be plugged into it. The
thermostat on the frypan would be
permanently turned on full but the
temperature would be regulated by
the external box.
For example, if I wanted a low heat
I would set the box control to around
25%. If I wanted a high heat I would
set it to 100%.
I bought something like this for a
Birko I had many years ago but I have
lost it and I think it was only rated to
about 1000W so would not be suitable
for an electric frypan.
Another project I think would be
useful would be a device to sense
when a motor is on or off. We live in
a rural area and rely on pumping from
a creek (and the infrequent rain) for
our domestic water. The creek is about
100m away and the electric pump is
down there.
The pump has a pressure vessel
which is intended to reduce the number of times the pump turns on by providing water from the pressure vessel
until the pressure drops below a set
value at which time the pump kicks
in. When the pressure in the pressure
vessel is above a set value, the pump
turns off again.
Some time back, the foot valve managed to detach itself from the poly
pipe. This meant the water from the
pressure vessel rapidly discharged
through the poly pipe back into the
creek. The pump would then fire up
and pump it back into the pressure vessel then turn off and the cycle would
repeat every few seconds.
I am not sure how long this went on
for as the pump is very quiet and some
distance from the house. It should be
possible to design a sensor (eg, using a
coil of wire wrapped around the mains
MPPT Solar Charger may not function with small panels
I have just finished constructing the Solar MPTT Charger and
Lighting Controller kit from Altronics (K6027) based on your February and March 2016 publications
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/296).
While it appears to be functioning correctly for the most part (ie,
it’s charging the battery with the
BULK LED solidly lit and flashing
at a half-second interval for absorption phase etc), I am not convinced
that the MPPT component is functioning correctly.
My test set-up involves a 40W
solar panel feeding an 18Ah 12V
SLA battery. With the battery voltage down so the charger is in BULK
charging mode, when I measure the
100
Silicon Chip
voltage across the solar panel it is
only about 0.4V higher than the battery voltage.
For example, the battery voltage
may be 13.2V with the solar panel at
13.6V (measured at CON1).
This is with the panel in full (near
midday) sun, with a measured current to the battery of ~2.2A. I was
expecting the solar panel voltage to
be more like 17V as per the article.
It seems like Q1 is simply switched
on fully and I am just measuring the
voltage drop across it and D1. I have
checked for shorts etc on the board
but it all looks OK.
Is there some way that I check the
operation of the MPPT component of
the controller? Do I need to change
Australia’s electronics magazine
my test set-up? (P. B., Capalaba, Qld)
• If the MPPT charging was working then the solar panel would be
at around 17-18V. To make the best
use of the MPPT feature, you need to
use a 100W or 120W panel, not 40W.
That’s because MPPT charging
is optimised for the higher current
available from the larger panels. At
40W, the inductance of L1 is not
sufficient.
So for the 40W panel, you may
need to add more turns on inductor
L1. Four times as many turns should
allow the MPPT switching function
to work.
Note that the Jaycar LF1272 or
Altronics L6522 100µH 3A choke
could also be used instead.
siliconchip.com.au
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
August 2018 101
cord) which detects when current is
being drawn and transmits a signal to
a remote receiver which could turn on
an indicator.
If the indicator cycled on and off
more than a set number of times in a
set period, it could sound an alarm.
Something like this would be very
handy for checking whether remote
equipment is operating or not. (M. B.,
Woodford, Qld)
• To control the temperature of
your electric fry pan, our April 2018
230VAC Thermopile-based Heater
Controller design would be suitable,
built as the simpler 0-100% control
version (ie, without the thermopile).
This will handle loads of up to 2300W
(ie, drawing 10A from the mains). See
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11027
To prevent your pump from running
incessantly if there is a leak, you could
use our Cyclic Pump Timer project,
which was published in the September 2016 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10130). It monitors the pump
run time and switches it off if it runs
for too long.
Note that the 10µF current monitoring filter capacitor (connecting
across ZD1) may need to be increased
to 100µF to maintain a motor current
reading when the pumps switches off
momentarily during its rapid on-andoff cycling, due to the presence of the
pressure bladder.
Differential temperature
controller wanted
I have been going through all my old
Silicon Chip issues to see if you have
had a Proportional Solar Pool Temperature Controller project.
I need a unit with two temperature
sensors, one for the solar water collector and one for the pool. It should
be able to set the temperature with a
variable control and control a relay for
the 230VAC pump.
I have a Tempmaster Mk2 which
I built from the February 2009 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/1337) and
I have seen that you published a Tempmaster Mk3 in the August 2014 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/7959).
Could any of these be modified to
have another temperature sensor input? (R. S., Epping, Vic)
• Yes, it would be possible to modify the Tempmaster Mk3 to make it
respond to the difference in temperature between two sensors, however, it
102
Silicon Chip
isn’t a proportional device. It simply
switches a relay on and off.
You could do this by wiring a second
LM335Z temperature sensor between
pin 1 of LK3 and GND. That would
make the reference voltage proportional to the temperature of the second sensor, as long as it is below 45°C.
You could then arrange for the output to switch on when the temperature at one sensor is above or below
the other, or even offset by several
degrees, depending on the settings of
LK1-LK4 and trimpot VR1.
For example, by bridging pin pair 1
of LK3 and LK4 and putting LK1 and
LK2 in the Cold (C) positions, you
could adjust VR1 so that the output
switches on when the temperature of
TS1 is higher than that of TS2. Or you
could use the same configuration but
with LK1 and LK2 in the Hot (H) positions, the output would be on when
the temperature at TS1 is lower than
that of TS2.
Incidentally, we are in the process
of designing a DC fan/pump controller which should be capable of proportional and on/off control of multiple devices based on the temperature
difference across two sensors. That
should certainly suit your needs; it
could be configured to drive the coil
of a mains-rated relay to switch the
230VAC pump.
Temperature Switch
Mk1 kit failure
I have just connected one of your
Temperature Switch kits (January 2007;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/2109) to
operate in conjunction with a smoke
detector and PICAXE microcontroller,
to start a water pump with a sprinkler
to protect our house in a bushfireprone area.
I tested the setup by turning on LED
lights in lieu of starting the pump and
all went well. However, when I connected up the pump, the 10W resistor
at the 12V input started smoking after
about 30 seconds. The 12V supply is
from a sealed lead-acid battery with a
10W solar panel maintaining charge.
Being a sunny day and not having
a regulator for the solar panel, the
battery voltage was around 14V but
that shouldn’t have been a problem. I
thought possibly the water pump may
have sent a higher voltage but the battery should have soaked that up.
I tried measuring the voltage with
Australia’s electronics magazine
the pump running this morning and it
was below 12V, due to engine cranking and a cloudy day.
The resistor still reads 10W so I tried
connecting the power again but it started glowing red hot after a few seconds,
with less than 12V across the battery.
Any suggestions you have would be
greatly appreciated. (G. L., via email)
• We suspect that 16V zener diode
ZD1 has failed short-circuit. This
was probably damaged due to excessive voltage transients from the pump
motor.
To protect the zener diode, power for
the temperature switch power should
be taken directly from the battery using
separate wiring (ie, not the same wiring used to power the pump).
You could beef up the supply filtering by using a 47W 1W resistor in
place of the 10W resistor and a 5W zener diode such as the 1N5352B (Jaycar ZR1450) for ZD1. This is rated at
15V instead of 16V but it would do
the same job.
Power transformer for
the CLASSiC-D
I have assembled the Jaycar KC5514
Class-D amplifier kit, based on your
CLASSiC-D design from the November
and December 2012 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/17).
I’m about to start on the corresponding KC5517 power supply kit but I
noticed that on its packaging, it says
that the kit requires “Centre tapped
transformer(s), 40V+40V for the ±55V
rails (amp) and 15V+15V windings for
the auxiliaries”.
I shot down to my local Jaycar store
to pick up a transformer and also
the 35A/600V bridge rectifier but I
couldn’t find either.
The staff at the store suggested that
I contact you and ask if you have Jaycar part numbers for those two items.
(M. H., via email)
• The recommended transformer is
the Altronics M5535A. This has 35V
windings and will give a nominal
±55V supply, dropping to 50V under
the full 300VA loading. Jaycar does
not have a suitable transformer for
this project. The bridge rectifier catalog codes are Altronics Z0091 or Jaycar ZR1324.
Alternatively, you can use a 35-035V transformer with a lower VA rating. You would need to wind on your
own 15V windings on top of the exsiliconchip.com.au
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isting ones, or use a separate 15-0-15V
transformer.
Testing optocoupler in
MPPT Charger
I built the Solar MPPT Charger &
Lighting Controller from the February
and March 2016 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/296) and tested it but
the 4N28 optocoupler (OPTO1) does
not seem to be working. I measured
4.8V at pins 1 and 2 and 12V at pin 5
siliconchip.com.au
but 0V at pin 4 so suspect it is faulty.
Can I use a 4N25 instead as I have
a spare one? If so, would I need to
change the circuit? (E. B., Bridgetown, WA)
• A 4N25 can be used in this circuit
without changes. However, based on
the voltage measurements you have
supplied, it does not seem that the
4N28 is faulty.
If you measure 4.8V at both pins 1
and 2, that means there is no current
flowing through the optocoupler LED
Australia’s electronics magazine
and thus you would expect a low voltage reading at pin 4.
Check the soldering and parts placement on your unit before deciding if
OPTO1 is at fault. Also, note that the
optocoupler is only switched on when
Q5 is on (via gate drive from RB5).
In this case, pin 2 should be around
3.8V, ie, around 1V between pins 1
and 2. We suggest you re-check the
voltages on the pins of OPTO1 when
S1 is pressed. This switches on the
optocoupler.
SC
August 2018 103
Coming up in Silicon Chip
Differential GPS (DGPS)
This system provides precise location and distance measurements in a 3D
space with accuracy down to about 10cm, compared to an error measured in
metres for standard GPS receivers. We take a look at the technology involved
and some of the real-world applications for it.
Four-channel DC Fan and Pump Controller
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................72-75
AEE Electronex......................... 65
Dave Thompson...................... 103
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
An updated speed controller for DC fans and pumps which runs from a 12V
supply, can switch up to 40A of fans and/or pumps based on temperatures
from up to four sensors. It’s configured over a USB interface and can also provide real-time feedback on its operation.
Electrolube.................................. 5
PICkit 4 Review
Hare & Forbes....................... OBC
Tim Blythman takes an in-depth look at Microchip’s new in-circuit programmer
and debugger for PIC and AVR microcontrollers. He has been using it extensively for testing and debugging PIC32 software and reports on his experiences.
Jaycar............................ IFC,49-56
Super Digital Sound Effects Module, Part Two
LD Electronics......................... 103
The second article has the construction details along with detailed information
on how to configure and use our new Sound Effects module.
LEACH Co Ltd............................. 9
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
The September 2018 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, August
30th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between August
28th and September 13th.
Emona Instruments................. IBC
HAKKO........................................ 5
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 103
LEDsales................................. 103
Master Instruments................... 27
Microchip Technology................ 33
Ocean Controls......................... 13
QualiEco Circuits....................... 59
Notes & Errata
Philips Compact Cassette and EL3302 Cassette Recorder, July 2018: at the
top of page 28 it states that the EL3302 had a battery comprising five AA cells
but as shown in the schematic on page 30 (Fig.5), it actually used five C cells.
Super-7 AM Radio, November & December 2017: the parts list includes four
22nF MKT polyester capacitors and one 47nF MKT polyester. It should instead
list five 22nF capacitors and no 47nF capacitors.
New SC200 Audio Amplifier, January-March 2017: The circuit diagram for the
SC200 shows a 150W resistor in series with VR1. This should be 120W to match
the overlay diagram and parts list. Also, the overlay diagram shows a 100pF 250V
capacitor; this should be 150pF 250V as shown in the circuit diagram and parts
list. The PCB has the correct markings.
Silicon Chip BackPack............. 11
Silicon Chip Shop...............82-83
Silicon Chip Subscriptions..... 101
SC Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD... 99
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 12
Tronixlabs................................ 103
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 103
Wagner Electronics................... 63
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working
on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high
voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are
advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be
killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
104
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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