This is only a preview of the December 2018 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 37 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "An incredibly sensitive Magnetometer to build":
Items relevant to "Amazing light display from our LED Christmas tree...":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "A Useless Box":
Items relevant to "El cheapo modules, part 21: stamp-sized audio player":
Items relevant to "Low voltage DC Motor and Pump Controller (Part 2)":
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
Des
Design
by
Les Kerrr
Article by
Les Kerr &
Ross Tester
A Christmas project
that will keep the grandkids
entertained well into the (2020?) New Year!
SILICON CHIP projects don’t all have to be serious, nor solve one of mankind’s
greatest needs, nor even be all that practical. Some of them are whimsical;
others – like this one – can be downright useless! Nevertheless, it’s all good fun!
Y
ou’d remember the Pet Rock
craze from a few years ago? The
ultimate Useless Box would be
just like one of those – that does absolutely nothing.
But we wouldn’t mind betting that
kids would get sick of a box that does
66
Silicon Chip
Froggy just sits there, minding his own
business . . .
nothing even faster than a pet rock!
This Useless Box doesn’t lose any
of its “uselessness” but it actually does
something: if you disobey the instruction on the front and turn it on, it turns
itself off again!
Now you’d have to agree that this
Australia’s electronics magazine
Uh-oh, someone has operated the
switch! The lid flies open . . .
is close to, but not quite, totally useless . . .
The Useless Box has one switch on it
with a simple label: Don’t Operate The
Switch – which, of course, becomes
overwhelmingly tempting for just about
anyone – especially young children.
siliconchip.com.au
The light comes on and Froggy’s hand
(foot!?) comes up out of the box . . .
But why don’t we start at the start
– the Useless Box obviously needs
a box!
The Useless Box box!
Something chirping inside the box
adds to the intrigue and eventually
curiosity gets the better of them – and
they give in and flick the switch.
The box whirrs, its lid opens, a light
comes on, a frog (yes, a green one!)
pops out and his “hand” reaches out
to turn the switch back off again, with
a warning not to touch it again. “GO
AWAY!” it says. (The frog’s mouth
moves in time with its “speech”).
After which, the frog goes back inside the box, the lid closes . . . and
that’s it – until next time the switch
is operated (which, of course, it will
be before long!).
After this, the frog even gets a little
aggro, throwing the lid open a couple
of times and closing it, with a final
“I TOLD YOU TO GO AWAY!”
siliconchip.com.au
And reaches over, pushes down on the
switch to turn it off . . .
So that’s the Useless Box – a great
gimmick to build for a Christmas present, particularly for the grandkids.
(In fact, that is why the Useless Box
came into being).
It will keep enquiring young minds
amused for hours, wondering how
Froggy knows that they’ve disobeyed
his warning and how he pops out and
turns the switch off again!
Just in case you’re still wondering about the hows/whens/wheres/
whys of the Useless Box, we’ve
made a small video of it so you
can see for yourself. You’ll find
it at siliconchip.com.au/Videos/
Useless+Box
Australia’s electronics magazine
He utters a few words while the light
turns off and he slinks back inside . . .
We used a hinged jewellery box
which we obtained at a local bargain shop – ours measures 200mm
x 150mm x 110mm but the dimensions aren’t particularly important,
just as long as it can house the internal workings.
You may find one slightly different
– or, indeed, you may put your handyman skills to work and build your own.
Box material is also unimportant –
any lightweight timber will do, as long
as its made strong enough to handle
many openings and closings. A lot
of the commercial ones appear to be
made from bamboo or craftwood.
It’s nice if the top and bottom of the
box are a tight fit when closed, too –
you don’t want to give any clue about
what’s inside box before inquisitiveness gets the better of them and the
switch is flipped!
For all the above reasons, we
haven’t shown any drawings of the
box. What we have shown is several
photos of the frog and the box internals, which you can follow when crafting your own.
We’ll get back to these shortly.
The frog’s arm
The most important part of the mechanical design is the frog’s arm.
It is U-shaped and attached to a
servo so that when rotated through
180°, it extends over the front edge
of the box and presses down on the
power switch, toggling it.
You can see the arm both in its resting position and reaching out to turn
the switch off in the photos of the box
internals.
The photos also show an aluminium
bracket on the lid which holds the lid
closed when the frog is chirping.
This is so that the children can’t
December 2018 67
And waits for the next person to ignore
the warning and operate the switch . . .
+12V
D1 1N5405
A
REG1 7805
100 F
0V
+5V (FOR SERVOS ONLY)
OUT
IN
K
GND
REG2
LP29 5 0-5.0
IN OUT
+5V (FOR FROG CIRCUITRY)
GND
100nF
100nF
100 F
4.7k
4
REG3 7805
IN
470 F
100nF
OUT
3
+5V (FOR SFX & AUDIO)
GND
100nF
2
1000 F
18
17
16
MODIFICATIONS FOR THE MG959 ARM SERVO (ONLY)
x
Locate 50k pot within the servo
body. Unsolder (or cut) two outer
x
wires as shown here (red x).
2.7k
Solder in two 2.7k 1/4W (or 1/8W)
resistors in series between the wires
removed and the outer pot terminals
15
13
USELESS BOX
RB0
RA4
RB1
RA3
RB2
IC1
PIC1 6F8 8
PIC16F88
RA1
RB3
RA0
RB4
OSC1
RB6
OSC2
RA2
RB5
RB7
CTRL
6
CTRL
ARM
SERVO
7
LID
SERVO
MOUTH
SERVO
ARM SERVO: TURNIGY MG959
(MODIFIED – SEE BELOW LEFT)
LID SERVO: TURNIGY MG959
MOUTH: HOBBY TECH YM2763
8
9
FROG SOUND 3
10
FROG SOUND 2
12
FROG SOUND 1
1
MOUTH INHIBIT
D3-5
1N4148
11
680
A
10k
BOX
ILLUMINATION
K LED1
2.7k
+5V
1N5405
K
K
K
A
E
7805
GND
B
A
A
LP2950
BC547
LEDS
C
IN
OUT
GND
IN
GND
OUT
Fig.1: it’s essentially a project in two halves – IC1, 2 and 3 provide the servo control and trigger the voice unit, which is
the Digital Sound Effects Generator from August 2018. This has an inbuilt audio amplifier to drive a speaker.
open the lid easily – they
have to operate the switch instead.When the box is closed,
the bracket hooks onto the end
of the servo arm which is later
used to open the lid.
Whether you want to go to this
extreme is entirely up to you – just
remember, kids are inquisitive and
will try to open the box if you
make it easy!
servos, which provide all
the movement in the UseOPEN/CLOSE
less Box.
BRACKET
WHITE
There is one servo to raise and
LED
lower the lid, while another moves
the frog’s arm to provide the switching action.
Both of these are Turnigy MG959 25kg/
LID
SERVO
cm units, purchased from Hobby King
but one, that controlling the arm, needs
FROG LIPS ATTACH TO
to be modified slightly (we’ll look at
SMALLER SERVO
this in a moment).
The component parts
The third servo is a smaller, less
There are three parts to the
powerful model which moves the
ARM
design :
frog’s mouth in time with the
FROG ARM ATTACHES
SERVO
TO LARGE SERVO
• the mechanical part, which
words.
provides the movement of
It is a Hobby Tech 13kg/cm
the frog and its arm AND
model and came from Jaycar, Cat
opens and closes the box;
YM-2763.
• the electrical part, which
If you have some spare servos
provides the timing for the
in your junk box, you might be
mechanical actions; and
able to press them into service but
• the sound part, which al- This internal photo shows how the frog body is conkeep in mind the 25kg/cm rating
lows the frog’s chirping nected to the lid but the arm is removed and attaches of the two larger types – the lid is
and voice to be both re- to one of the larger servos which turns the switch off. not heavy but does require some
The rear servo opens and closes the lid via the alumcorded and played.
force to open and close it. And
inium bracket (not connected in this photo). This also
Froggy’s “hand” must strike the
prevents
the
lid
being
opened
by
inquisitive
fingers!
The servos
Note also the white LED attached to the lid and its con- toggle switch with enough presThe major part of the me- cealed wiring. You could copy this directly, or perhaps sure to turn it off.
chanical side is the three come up with your own mechanical arrangement.
Ordinary “hobby” servos such
68
Silicon Chip
CTRL
0V
0V
0V
5
1N4148
SC
Vdd
RA5/MCLR
S1
+5V
+5V
+5V
“DO NOT
OPERATE”
14
Vss
THE MG959 LID SERVO IS NOT MODIFIED
20 1 8
470 F
100nF
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
+5V
10F
100nF
5
ENVELOPE DETECTOR
IC2: OPA2340 OR MCP6022
7
IC2b
6
A
10 F
4
100k
8.2k
4
8
2
VR1
10k
D2
1N4148
1
IC2a
3
7
GP2
1 F
MULTILAYER
CERAMIC
GP5
IC3
PIC12F675
MCLR/GP3
GP4
GP0
GP1
2
3
6
Vss
470k
1.8k
56nF
K
4.7k
8.2k
VR1: MOUTH
THRESHOLD
ADJUST
5
1
Vdd
100nF
8
100k
C
22k
Q1
BC547
10k
B
E
12k
PART SUPER DIGITAL SOUNDS EFFECTS GENERATOR
(SILICON CHIP AUGUST 2018)
+5V
REG4
MCP1700-3.3
Link LK2 is permanently
closed (the header can be
replaced with a wire link).
OUT
IN
1 F
+3.3V
MCP1700
1k
ICSP
Vin
Vout
1
3
MICRO-SD
CARD SOCKET
4
PGD
4
5
PGC
5
+3.3V
1 F
28
AVDD/VDD
1
2
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
26
SDO1 18
SCK1 17
SDI1 25
1 F
AN4/RB2
RB0/AN2/PGED1
VREF+/AN0/RA0
RB1/AN3/PGEC1
AN5/RB3
24
7x 1k
22
7
SW6
21
FROG SOUND 3
6
SW5
11
FROG SOUND 2
5
SW4
10
FROG SOUND 1
4
SW3
19
3
SW2
16
2
1
S1
siliconchip.com.au
CON4
6
SDO2
1
2
SCK2
2
7
CS2
3
3
MCLK
4
VA
SDATA
AOUTL
SW1
15
8
SCLK/DEM
IC2
CS4334
LRCK
AOUTR
MCLK
AGND
270k
5
6
9
10 F
RB 8/TDK
RB14/RB16/AN9
+5V
22k
RB13/AN8
1
5
RB11/D+
PGED3/RB5
RB 10/D–
8
3
IC1
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS
SW7
8
7
23
CLK1/RA2
RB9/TD0
CON1
TRIGGERS
+5V
VUSB3V3
RB15/RP17
1 F
1 F
13
VDD
VREF–/AN0/RA1
CS1
CD
1 F
MCLR
CON3
S2
+5V
+5V
LK2
GND
GND
10 F
14
1 F
IN–
IN+
Vcc
IC3 Out+
IS31AP4991
BYPASS
Gnd
SDB
4
Out–
7
6
2
8
SPEAKER
RB4/RP10/SOSCI
RA3/RP4/CLKO
RC9/RP19
SOSCO/RP5/RA4
RB 7/TDI
VCAP
RB 6/PGEC 3
AVSS
27
VSS
8
12
20
330pF
47k
22k
A
10 F
LED1
100pF
K
Australia’s electronics magazine
December 2018 69
+
GND
470µF
+5V
OUT
GND
100µF
D3-D5
3
2
1
TERMINALS 6
No. Value
1 470kΩ
2 100kΩ
1 22kΩ
2 12kΩ
2 10kΩ
2 8.2kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
1 1.8kΩ
1 680Ω
2 2.7kΩ*
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
red red orange brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
grey red red brown
yellow violet red brown
brown grey red brown
blue grey brown brown
red violet red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
grey red black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
red violet black brown brown
Resistors for the Sound Card are all SMD – refer to the article in August/September.
Silicon Chip
5
diode and the resultant DC voltage
charges a 1µF capacitor.
The time constant of this capacitor and the parallel 100k resistor is
set so that the voltage applied to the
negative input of the second OPA2340
(IC2a) follows the envelope of the audio signal.
IC2a is wired as an inverting
Schmitt trigger whose output will be
low if the voltage on its negative input exceeds the voltage on its positive input.
If the mouth inhibit signal is high,
ie, BC547 transistor (Q1) is on, then
the voltage on the positive input is set
by the 10k potentiometer.
PIC12F675(IC3) operates the mouth
servo, opening the mouth if its input is
low and shutting it if its input is high.
In other words, if the envelope voltage
is high then the mouth is open and if
it is low the mouth is closed.
* required for modifying one servo for 180° operation. Preferably 1/8W; 1/4W should fit
70
CON3
A
K
LED2
4.7kΩ
8.2kΩ
8.2kΩ
100nF
AUDIO
IN
470kΩ
10kΩ
+
10µF
100nF
100kΩ
4148
D2
IC2
MCP6022
56nF
10µF
NP
100kΩ
10kΩ
© 2018 USELESS BOX
08111181 RevA
3x 1N4148 etc
4 ON CON4*
TO SPEAKER OUT
(PIN 2, CON2)*
Fig.2: the control PCB component overlay, which matches the photo at right.
Power for the Sound Effects/Audio amplifier board is taken from the pair of
terminals indicated, with other connections to that board shown in red. Other
connections were provided “just in case”!
Resistor Colour Codes (Controller only)
CON4
SOUNDS
S1
* CONNECTIONS IN RED ARE TO
THE DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS PCB
(SILICON CHIP AUGUST 2018)
Q1
BC547
100nF
CON5
CON6
CON2
10kΩ
1000µF
+
1µF
IC3
VR1
IC1
PIC16F88-I/P
LP2950-5.0
680Ω
GND
12kΩ
+
REG3
7805
+100nF x 2
LID
MOUTH
PIC12F675-I/P
1.8kΩ
+
100nF x 2
11.4V
OUT
ARM
470µF
22kΩ
GND
REG1
7805
D1
4.7kΩ
+12V CON1
IN
REG2
+5V TO
SOUND
CARD
CARD*
+
5404
12V DC IN
FROM
INPUT
SOCKET
+
4148
The frog’s mouth moves in concert
with the audio. The mouth itself is
made from two half circles of brass
wire. One is fixed in the horizontal
plane adjacent to the servo shaft and
the other is connected to the servo
shaft itself.
To move the frog’s mouth in sequence with him (her? it?) speaking,
the audio signal is envelope-detected then this voltage is applied to a
Schmitt trigger so that we get a mouth
open/mouth closed signal to operate
the mouth servo pretty much in time
with the voice.
The first stage of the OPA2340
(IC2b) is wired as a non-inverting audio amplifier with a voltage gain of
11. Its output is rectified by a 1N4148
SERVOS
4148
Did someone mention mouth?
5V C 0V 5V C 0V 5V C 0V
100µF
+
4148
as those used for model aircraft, etc
will probably not have enough force
to achieve this.
The mouth movement is not quite
as difficult, so a typical model servo
should be quite adequate.
OK, back to the arm servo. As supplied, like most servos it only operates
through 90° but we need it to operate
through 180°.
The easiest way to achieve this is
to open up the servo (it’s not difficult) and locate the two ends of the
5k position potentiometer. Disconnect the wires from each end of the
pot and add in a 2.7k, 1/4W resistor (or even 1/8W if you can get them)
in series with the wire ends and the
pot terminals.
Close the servo back up again and
it will now work through 180°.
There’s a YouTube video which
shows how to do this if the description isn’t clear: http://youtu.be/F0k9CklRE0
Australia’s electronics magazine
The 10k potentiometer provides
an adjustment so that the mouth
moves in time with the audio.
The voice recorder/amplifier
When Les Kerr originally submitted
this project to SILICON CHIP, he used
the Voice Recorder published back
in our December 2007 for the sound
effects, along with a separate “Champion” audio amplifier.
There was a major problem with
this: the HK828 chip is now obsolete and becoming very hard to get
(it’s even been discontinued by Jaycar Electronics, who developed that
project).
So we revised the Useless Box using the Super Digital Sound Effects
Module we published just last August/September.
This will ensure that it will be current for many years.
It reads its messages from an SD
card and uses a PIC micro to select
them and the appropriate message
to send to its inbuilt audio amplifier.
There’s another reason to use the
August module: the separate audio amplifier in the original Useless Box is no longer required – the
IS31AP4991 can provide up to 1.2W
into an 8-ohm speaker.
All you need to do with the new
sound effects module is connect a
speaker – and this can be just about
anything that will fit in the box.
Chances are you have a suitable
speaker in your junk box!
You can record whatever messages
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s a photo of the control PCB at left, reproduced same size.
Many readers will be delighted to know that it’s all “through hole”
components – no 40/20 vision required for this one! No photo nor
overlay is shown for the Sound Effects board: see August 2018 issue.
Note that some servos will have different pinouts and will need to be
modified to suit.
in whatever voices you want – the
August/September 2018 tell you how
to do that.
If you need an authentic frog sound,
you’ll find a recording of the Per tree
frog at www.anbg.gov.au/sounds/
Software
Each of the three PIC microcontrollers in the Useless Box require different firmware.
If you purchase the PICs from
SILICON CHIP they will come preprogrammed; otherwise you will
need to download the hex files from
siliconchip.com.au and program them
yourself. We’re assuming that you
have the necessary knowledge and
equipment to do this!
You will need 0811118A.hex for
the PIC16F88-I/P and 0811118B.
hex for the PIC12F675-I/P. The firmware for the Sound Effects Module
pic (PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS) is
0110718A.
So what does it do?
Not much . . . it’s pretty useless!
We’ve covered a lot of this earlier in
the description of the various sections
but in a nutshell, the Useless Box IC1
(PIC16F88) lies dormant, waiting for
an input from S1, the “Do Not Operate” switch on the RB0 input (pin 6).
This input is normally held low by a
10kresistor to 0V but goes high (ie,
to 5V) when the switch is operated.
This switch operates “upside
down” to what you might expect –
“up” is on and “down” is off.
This is so Froggy’s hand can turn
the switch back to “off” by pressing
down on it. (It’s a lot harder to go the
other way!). The miscreant who disobeys the warning sign pushes it up
to operate it.
Each time the switch is turned on
there is a different reaction.
The first time, it does not play any
sounds – the frog switches S1 off in
silence.
The second time, it drives RB4 high
(pin 10 – frog sound 2; “Go away!”)
and the next time, RB3 (pin 9 – frog
sound 3; “I told you to go away!”),
which in turn trigger the Sound Effects Module IC1 inputs on CON4.
First is pin 19; (RC9/RCP19), then
pin 10, RB4; and finally pin 11 (RB4).
At the same time (and in the same
sequence) the RB1 and RB2 outputs
(pins 7 and 8) send the appropriate
signals to their respective servos –
RB1 activates the arm servo and RB2
activates the lid servo.
The mouth servo operates slightly
differently as it has to work (roughly!)
in time with Froggy’s voice.
We won’t try to reinvent wheels by
describing the Sound Effects Module
here – if you want to fully understand
how it operates (including how you
record your voice messages on the SD
card), please refer to the articles in August and September 2018 (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/325).
Of course, the three “frog sound”
messages can be anything you wish
to record on the SD card.
Power Supply
The Useless Box is powered from
a 12V DC, 1A plug pack, connected
to the box via a suitable DC socket .
Power connects from this socket
to the +12V in and GND terminals at
the top left of the PCB, thence via a
1N5404 reverse-polarity protection
diode.
At 3A, this diode is arguably higher rated than might appear necessary
but a typical 1N4xxx diode (rated at
ROUTINES
There are three different routines of operation that follow each other. They are started when the toggle switch on the front of the box
is operated.
The first:
1 Inhibit mouth movement
2 Chirping sound (1) off
3 Open the box lid
4 Switch the light on
5 Frog arm moves out, closing the switch
6 Arm retracts
7 Switch light off
8 Box lid closed
siliconchip.com.au
The second:
1 Start frog sound 2 “go away”
2 Enable frog mouth movement
3 Open the box lid
4 Switch the light on
5 Frog arm moves out closing the switch
6 Move frog arm back a few degrees
7 Mute off
8 Pause 1.8 seconds to allow time for frog’s
voice to play
9 Retract frog arm
10 Switch off light
11 Close box lid
Australia’s electronics magazine
The third:
1 Open and close box lid twice.
Switch light on when lid is open and
off when closed. Open lid
2 Switch the light on
3 Start frog sound 3
4 Frog arm moves out, closing the switch
5 Move frog’s arm back a few degrees
6 Pause 2.5 seconds to allow time for
frog’s voice to play
7 Retract frog’s arm
8 Close lid
9 Switch initial frog chirping sound on (1)
December 2018 71
1A maximum) may not have sufficient margin for error, particularly
when more than one servo is operating. So a 3A diode it is. They’re not
that much more expensive than lower-rated diodes.
You will note on the circuit diagram
that there are actually three 5V power
supplies – one to power the servos,
one to power the control microprocessor and other ICs and one to power the
audio amplifier. The latter is further
reduced to 3.3V for the SFX module.
It might appear that having three
separate 5V supplies is a bit wasteful.
But it was done to avoid any power supply noise/feedback caused by
the servos operating (they can be
fairly noisy electrically!) and affecting the microprocessor circuits and/
or the audio.
Besides, 5V regulators are quite
cheap!
Construction
Once again, there are two parts to
the project: the control PCB along
with its hardware and the sound PCB,
most of which is mounted on a second board.
For detail of the sound PCB, refer
to the articles in the August and September 2018 issues (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/325).
Most of the construction techniques can be seen from our photographs. While this seemed a sensible
approach, no doubt there are many
others!
We’ve already mentioned the servos
and their functions. The rest is basically the electronics assembly, which
is quite straightforward, and the dressing of the project.
The frog itself
We originally purchased a toy frog
from a $2 shop but found it too difficult to modify. So instead we made
one.
(OK, I lie: Mrs Kerr made one – she’s
much more adept at the sewing machine than I!).
The photos give a good idea of our
Froggy – it’s basically a tube of soft
green stretch cloth for the body (he
needs to be quite flexible when lifted
up and down) and a completely separate arm, stiffened by some heavy wire
attached to the servo.
This arm needs to be quite stiff in
order to stay in place and also positively hit that switch. You don’t really
72
Silicon Chip
Parts list – Useless Box
1 hinged “jewellery” box, size approximately 200mm x 150mm x 110mm (see text)
Control Board
1 double-sided PCB, 96 x 67mm, code 08111181 (from siliconchip.com.au/shop)
1 fabric toy frog (see text)
1 SPDT toggle switch (S1)
2 large servos, ~25kg/cm [eg Turnigy MG959 (Hobby King)]
1 small servo, ~13kg/cm [eg Hobby Tech (Jaycar) YM-2763]
7 2-way PCB mounting terminal blocks
1 3-way PCB mounting terminal blocks
3 3-pin male polarised headers for servos
1 TO-220 mini heatsink [Jaycar HH8502] with M3 6mm screw and nut
1 chassis-mounting DC socket
Aluminium brackets (see text)
Stiff wire (for mouth - see text)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-I/P, programmed with 0811118A.hex (IC1)
1 PIC12F675-I/P, programmed with 0811118B.hex (IC3)
1 OPA2340 or MCP6022 rail-to-rail CMOS op amp (IC2)
2 7805 5V 1A positive voltage regulators (REG1, REG3)
1 LP2950-5.0 5V positive voltage regulator (REG2)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 1N5404 3A power diode (D1)
4 1N4148 signal diode (D2-D5)
1 5mm high brightness white LED (LED1)
NOTE: Where there
is a clash of part nos
between the control
board and the sound
board (eg, LED1, IC1,
etc), each refers to
the part no on its respective PCB.
Capacitors
1 1000µF 16V electrolytic
2 470µF 16V electrolytc
2 100µF 16V electrolytic
1 10µF 16V electrolytic
1 10µF 16V NP electrolytic
1 1µF 16V electrolytic
1 1µF 16V multi-layer ceramic
6 100nF MKT or ceramic
1 56nF MKT
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% unless stated otherwise)
1 470k 2 100k
1 22k
2 12k
2 8.2k
2 4.7k
1 1.8k
1 680
1 10k mini horizontal trimpot (VR1)
2 10k
2 2.7k 1/8W if possible
Sound Board*
(Note: component IDs are from original August 2018 project)
1 double-sided PCB, coded 01107181, 55 x 23.5mm
1 SMD microSD card socket (CON1) [Altronics P5717 or similar]
2 mini SMD two-pin tactile pushbutton switches (S1,S2) (optional)
[eg, Switchtech 1107G]
1 5-pin header (CON3) (optional, to program IC1)
1 speaker, size to suit (8 or greater)
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS programmed with 0110718A.hex, SSOP-28 (IC1)
1 CS4334 16-bit stereo DAC, SOIC-8 (IC2)
* The Sound Board is avail1 IS31AP4991 mono bridged audio amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC3) able as a complete kit (Super Digital SFX Module),
1 MCP1700-3.3 LDO linear regulator, SOT-23 (REG1)
containing all parts listed
1 blue SMD LED, 3216/1206 package (LED1)
Capacitors (all SMD X7R ceramic, 6V, 2012/0805 size)
3 10µF
7 1µF 16V 1 330pF
1 100pF
Resistors (all SMD 1%, 2012/0805 size)
1 270k 1 47k
2 22k 8 1k
1 0 (LK2)
here, including pre-programmed IC1 and PCB, but
NOT the speaker) from the
SILICON CHIP online shop –
see www.siliconchip.com.
au/shop/20/4658 for more
details).
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
notice that Froggy only has one arm and that it’s not actually attached to the body!
Froggy has a separately-made head, made from the same
material as the body but is filled with cotton wool to help
it keep its shape.
The red mouth is sewn in and it holds its shape with
two wires. One of these is fixed but the other attaches to
the mouth servo so he talks in time with the voice.
A pinched nose (“nostrils” sewn together) and a pair of
black button eyes fastened through some white discs finish off the design.
You’d have to agree that Froggy looks quite . . . froggy!
By the way, if you (or the grandkids!) have an aversion to
frogs, there are obviously many other cloth toys out there
that could be used, or made. Just follow the same principles.
Finally, we needed to ensure that the lid stayed closed
when the lid servo was not being actuated – and couldn’t
be simply lifted up “for a look”!
So we made a small bracket to attach the lid to the servo
arm to ensure it worked as we wanted it to. Again, this
can be clearly seen in the photos.
Mounting the PCBs
Basically, it’s just a matter of choosing a location which
doesn’t interfere with any of the mechanical “works” –
the servos which open the lid, operate Froggy’s arm and
his mouth.
You can get some idea of the way we did it from the
photos. Your method may of needs differ depending on
any “extras” inside your case – such as a jewel drawer,
for instance.
We’ll leave that entirely up to you but a bit of experimenting might be needed to find the right positions.
E-BIKE
BATTERIES
can assist you with
batteries for e-Bikes – New and Reconditioned
For 500W, 1000W & 2000W models.
We are specialists in e-Bike battery refurbishment.
We can supply new or recell e-Bike batteries with
high quality cells – often with higher capacities
than the original!
Contact Premier Batteries today to find out more.
LITHIUM ION AND
LITHIUM PHOSPHATE
BATTERIES
Connecting the PCBs
Simply follow the labels on the PCB connectors – they’re
quite self-explanatory with one exception:
There are two “+5V OUT” terminals (with associated
grounds). To avoid any interference between the servos
and ICs/audio module, use the upper pair of +5V and
GND terminals for the 5V supply to the sound effects PCB.
You can ignore the lower 5V and GND terminals along
with the 11.4V and its GND terminals – they was provided
“just in case” they were needed.
There are four other connections to be made between
the control board and the Sound Effects board – the “audio in” which feeds the mouth movement circuitry (envelope detector and servo control), along with three diodes.
The former is self-explanatory – it is just a suitable length
of hookup wire linking the two boards.
With any luck, (depending how you mount the two
boards) the three diodes can make the connections between the two – otherwise short lengths of hookup wire
may be required as well.
LED2 on the control board is an ultra-bright white type
(the brighter the better). We found this one diode was
enough to illuminate the internals when Froggy did his
thing.
It can be attached to the inside of the lid with glue and
the wires hidden in a hole drilled through the case lid.
Just remember to leave plenty of slack in the connecting
wires (to CON4) to allow the lid to open and close. Light
gauge wire should be used so it can easily flex.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
LITHIUM ION PHOSPHATE BATTERIES
– ideal for golf carts/buggies and high rate
deep cycle applications.
With less than half the weight and up to 7 times more
charge/discharge cycles than sealed lead acid, lithium
ion phosphate natteries offer many advantages
including their ability to fast charge and give high rate
output without damage!
Custom Manufacturer of Battery Packs
Made to your
specifications
Unit 9, 15 Childs Rd, Chipping Norton NSW 2170
Tel: 02 9755 1845
www.premierbatteries.com.au
email: malcolmw<at>premierbatteries.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
December 2018 73
|