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Look after your Lithiums!
By Nicholas Vinen
2x 12V
Battery
Balancer
Two 12V batteries are often significantly cheaper than one equivalent
24V battery but you need to be careful connecting batteries in series as
their voltages and state-of-charge may not be identical. The difference
in voltage can increase over time, leading to battery damage from overcharging and/or under-charging. This compact, low-cost device keeps
them balanced so that they last a long time.
O
cause they tolerate overcharging much less than a similar
n page 28 of this issue, we describe a high-perforlead-acid battery would.
mance Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) you
This design incorporates a low-voltage cut-out which
can build yourself, that uses two 12V LiFePO4 batprevents the batteries being discharged too far if it is unteries wired in series to form a 24V battery.
able to keep them balanced and its very low quiescent
This was a much cheaper solution than buying a 24V batcurrent of under 0.02mA means it will have virtually no
tery with equivalent performance, even taking into account
effect on battery life.
the $100 or so we paid for a commercial battery balancer.
It also incorporates a LED to show when it is monitoring
You can build this balancer for a lot less than that and
the battery voltages and two more LEDs to show when one
it will do a similar job.
or the other is being discharged or shunted.
Our version can’t handle quite as much
By default, the low-voltage cut-out is set up so that the
current, because it lacks the large
batteries are only balanced when they are being charged,
heatsink.
however, there are definitely situations where you might
But you can
want the batteries to be balanced during discharge, too.
easily parallel
In that case, you just need to
several of our
change a resistor or two in
balancers if you
order to adjust the cut-out
need a higher curthreshold so it is near the
rent capacity and
minimum battery voltthe cost would still
age. In this case, the cutbe quite reasonable.
out will still act to proIt can be used with prettect the batteries but will
ty much any battery chemallow
balancing during
istry, as long as the battery
charging and discharge,
voltages will stay within the
right down to that lower
range of 5-16V.
threshold.
Balancing is most critical
Shown
rather
significantly
oversize
for
clarity
(the
PCB
It’s a compact unit at
with lithium-based rechargemeasures only 31.5 x 34.5mm) – see the $2 coin for reference – just 31.5 x 34.5 x 13mm,
able batteries, though, beall components mount on this single board.
70
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Celebrating 30 Years
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Fig.1: the circuit for the Battery Balancer, shows the balancing section at top and low-voltage cut-out at bottom, based
around dual micropower op amps IC1 and IC2 respectively. IC1 drives dual Mosfets Q1 & Q2 to perform balancing
while necessary; IC2 drives the indicator LEDs and disables IC1 using Mosfet Q3 when the battery voltage is low.
so you can tuck it away inside just about any device. And
if the 300mA balancing current is not sufficient for your
purposes, all you need to do is wire two or more units in
parallel and they will operate in concert to keep the batteries balanced.
Balancing operation
There are two sections to the circuit; the balancer and the
low-battery cut-out. The entire circuit is shown in Fig.1,
with the balancing circuitry in the top half and the lowvoltage cut-out below.
Starting with the balancing section, schottky diodes D1
and D2 are connected in series with the two batteries so
that no damage should occur if they are wired up incorrectly. These diodes are then connected to Mosfets Q1a
and Q2b at the right-hand side of the circuit diagram, via
a pair of 27Ω 3W resistors.
These Mosfets are normally switched off and no current
can flow through them. If the voltage across one battery rises by more than 100mV above the other, the Mosfet across
that battery is switched on.
siliconchip.com.au
If the battery is being charged, this has the effect of shunting some of the charge current around that battery so that it
receives a lower charging current than the other, decreasing the voltage differential over time, as the battery with
the lower voltage is then receiving more charging current.
If the unit is operating while the battery is not being
charged, the effect is to slightly discharge the battery with
the higher voltage until they are closer in voltage.
It’s a linear circuit so the shunt current is proportional to
the difference in voltage. As the imbalance rises, so does the
shunt current until the limit of around 300mA is reached.
This is to prevent the Mosfet and resistor from overheating.
Detecting a voltage difference
A resistive divider comprising two 10MΩ resistors and
200kΩ trimpot VR1 is connected across the battery, before
diodes D1 and D2 so that their forward voltage does not
affect the calculation of the difference in voltages.
VR1 is adjusted so that the voltage at its wiper is exactly half that of the total battery. This half-battery voltage is
buffered by voltage follower op amp IC1a.
Celebrating 30 Years
May 2018 71
ing current, all the dissipation would
be in this resistor and none in the Mosfet, meaning the maximum current
• Minimum battery voltage: 5V
would be 200mA [14V ÷ 68Ω].
• Nominal battery voltage: 12-13V
We realised we could increase this
• Maximum battery voltage (fully charged): 16V
by 50% by splitting the dissipation be• Battery voltage difference for balancing to start: approximately 100mV
tween the Mosfet and its series resis• Battery voltage difference for maximum balancing current: approximately 130mV
tor. The resistor has a 3W rating while
• Maximum balancing current: approximately 300mA (multiple units can be paralleled)
the Mosfet has a 2W rating, giving the
• Maximum balancing power: approximately 4.5W (multiple units can be paralleled)
possibility of a total of just under 5W.
• Maximum recommended charging current: 10A per unit
With a battery voltage of 29V and a
• Quiescent current: < 20A
balancing current of 300mA, dissipa• Low-voltage cut-out threshold: 27V (can be changed)
tion is around 2.7W in the resistor and
• Low-voltage cut-out hysteresis: 0.25V
1.7W in the Mosfet.
We achieve this dissipation sharing
This op amp has a very high input resistance of around by preventing the Mosfet from turning on fully and using
40GΩ, resulting in a low input bias current of approxi- a lower value limiting resistor. This is the purpose of Q1b
mately 250pA, so the high values of these resistors (cho- and the three resistors between TP2 and TP3.
These resistors bias the gate of Q1b at a voltage that’s
sen to minimise the quiescent current) will not result in a
initially about halfway between the negative and positive
large error voltage.
The other half of the dual op amp, IC1b, compares the terminals of the upper battery (ie, at a voltage between that
voltage at the junction of the two batteries (from pin 2 of of pins 1 & 2 of CON1). However, as the balancing current
CON1) to the output voltage from IC1a. If the upper bat- for the upper battery increases, the voltage at the junction
tery has a higher voltage than the lower battery then the of the 27Ω resistor and Q1a drops and therefore so does
half-battery voltage will be higher than the voltage at pin 2 Q1b’s gate voltage.
Q1b is a P-channel Mosfet and so it switches on when
of CON1. That means that the voltage at non-inverting input pin 5 will be higher than at the inverting input, pin 6. its gate is a few volts below its source terminal. The source
As a result, IC1b’s output will swing positive. The ra- terminal is connected to the gate of Q1a, which is about 2V
tio of the 390kΩ feedback resistor to the 10kΩ resistor that above pin 2 of CON1 when Q1a is in conduction.
So as the current through Q1a builds and Q1b’s gate voltgoes to the battery junction (ie, 39:1) means that the output will increase by 40mV for each 1mV difference in bat- age drops, eventually Q1b begins to conduct, pulling the
gate of Q1a negative and cutting it off. This forms a negatery voltages.
Once the voltage at output pin 7 has risen by a couple tive feedback path and due to the gate capacitances, the
of volts, N-channel Mosfet Q1a will switch on as its gate circuit stabilises at a particular current level.
With 300mA through the 27Ω resistor, the voltage across
is being driven above its source, which connects to pin 2
it will be 8.1V [0.3A x 27Ω] and this translates to a gateof CON1 via a low-value shunt resistor (47mΩ).
So current will flow from the positive terminal of the up- source voltage for Q1b of around -2V, ie, just enough for it
per battery, through diode D1, the 27Ω 3W resistor, Mosfet to conduct current. The 4.7kΩ resistor between output pin
Q1a and then the 47mΩ resistor to the negative terminal 7 of IC1b and the gate of Q1a prevents Q1b from “fighting”
the output of the op amp too much.
of the upper battery.
Note that 8.1V is slightly more than half the typical voltOnce this current starts to flow, it will also develop a
voltage across the 47mΩ resistor which will increase the age of one 12V battery and this is why the resistor dissipates
voltage at pin 6 of IC1b, providing negative feedback. This slightly more than the Mosfet, in line with their ratings.
feedback is around 1mV/20mA, due to the shunt value.
This prevents Q1a from switching fully on. Rather, its Balancing the other battery
The other half of the balancing is a mirror-image; for balgate voltage will increase until the current through the
47mΩ resistor cancels out the difference in the two voltages. ancing the lower battery, Mosfet Q2b is a P-channel type and
Hence, the maximum shunt current of 300mA will thus switches on when its gate is driven below its source.
be achieved with an imbalance around 130mV (100mV + As with Q1a, its source is connected to the junction of the
two batteries via the 47mΩ resistor.
300mA x 0.047Ω ÷ 2).
When the lower battery voltage is higher than the upThe 10MΩ resistor between pin 3 of IC1a and pin 2 of
CON1 serves mainly to prevent the balancer from operating per battery, output pin 7 of IC1b goes negative, switching
should the junction of the batteries become disconnected Q2b on.
And the same current-limiting circuitry is present but
from CON1. It also makes setting the unit up and adjusting VR1 easier. It has a negligible effect on the voltage at this time, Q2a is an N-channel Mosfet, so that as current
pin 3 since there’s normally such a small voltage across it. builds through the lower 27Ω resistor and the voltage at
the junction of it and Q2b rises, Q2a switches on and limCurrent limiting
its the current to a similar 300mA value, with roughly the
Had we specified 68Ω resistors in series with Q1a and same dissipation split between the two components.
A 10nF capacitor across IC1b’s 390kΩ feedback resistor
Q2b (rather than 27Ω), there would be no need for additional
current limiting circuitry since the resistors would naturally slows down its action so that it doesn’t react to any noise
limit the balancing current within their dissipation ratings. or EMI which may be present at the battery terminals (eg,
However, this would mean that at the maximum balanc- due to a switchmode load).
Features & specifications
72
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Fig.2: use the PCB overlay diagram at
left and matching photo at right as a
guide to assembling the PCB. Only one
SMD component (a 10MΩ resistor)is
soldered to the bottom, the rest go on
the top as shown. The main aspects to
pay attention to during constructon are
that the semiconductors are correctly
orientated and that you fit the resistors
and capacitors in the correct locations.
It also prevents the circuit from oscillating due to the
negative feedback and the action of the current limiters.
Under-voltage cut-out
Commercial battery balancers tend to only operate when
the battery voltage is near maximum, as this is when they
are being charged. That avoids the possibility of the balancer discharging the batteries when they are under load.
However, we’re not convinced this is a good idea. It’s
possible to have a sufficient initial imbalance that one battery could be over-charged before the balancer even activates. And full-time balancing also has the advantage that
it can start re-balancing the cells as soon as an imbalance
occurs, which also avoids over-discharge and gives it more
time for re-balancing.
There is one other advantage to having a higher undervoltage lockout threshold and that is that it will prevent the
balancer being triggered due to differing internal resistance
of the batteries when under heavy load. This could create
a voltage difference between the batteries even when they
are at an equal state of charge.
If you want the balancer to be active even when the bat-
teries are not being charged, you still need the under-voltage lockout circuitry to prevent the balancer from over-discharging either battery. But in that case, you would change
its threshold to be close to the fully-discharged voltage of
your combined battery.
For a pair of lithium-based 12V rechargeable batteries,
this would normally be around 20V total.
That’s to protect against the case where one battery has
a failure (eg, shorted cell) which causes its voltage to drop
dramatically. The under-voltage detection circuitry will
then prevent the balancer from over-discharging the other
battery in response, and potentially destroying it. See the
section below on how to change the cut-out threshold if
you want to take this approach.
The increased battery drain of the low-voltage cut-out
section is only about 10µA. As a bonus, it drives the three
LEDs to indicate when the balancer is operating and which
battery is being shunted.
This is implemented using IC2a, another LT1495 op amp.
Its positive supply is the same as for IC1a but its negative
supply is connected directly to the negative terminal of the
bottom battery, allowing it to sense the total battery voltage
Many years ago, long before the days of smartphones and computers, even before the days
of television, it was considered a “right of passage” for dads to sit down with the sons (or
daughters) and help them as they built their own radio receiver. FM? Not on your life no such thing! DAB+? Hadn’t been invented yet! No, it was all good, old reliable AM Radio.
And they could listen to stations hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles away!
The beauty of it all was that they were building something that actually worked, something
they’d be proud to show their friends, to their school teachers, to their grandparents!
Enjoy those days once again as they build the SILICON CHIP Super-7 AM Radio
See the articles in
November & December 2017
SILICON CHIP
(www.siliconchip.com.au
/series/321)
SUPERB
SCHOOL
PROJEC
T!
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Covers the entire AM radio broadcast band.
Has on-board speaker ... or use with headphones.
SAFE! –power from on-board battery or mains plug-pack
Everything is built on a single, glossy black PCB.
All components readily available from normal parts suppliers
Full instructions in the articles including alignment.
See-through case available to really finish it off!
IT LOOKS SO GOOD THEIR FRIENDS WON’T BELIEVE THEY BUILT IT!
siliconchip.com.au
Celebrating 30 Years
May 2018 73
(ie, between pins 1 and 3 of CON1) more easily.
This is done using a string of three resistors (390kΩ,
6.8MΩ and 1MΩ) connected across the batteries. These
form a divider with a ratio of 8.19 [(390kΩ + 6.8MΩ) ÷
1MΩ + 1]. The divided voltage from the battery is applied
to inverting input pin 2 of IC2a.
A 3.3V reference voltage is applied to the non-inverting input at pin 3. This is provided by micropower shunt
reference REF1, which is supplied with around 2A via
a 10MΩ resistor. The voltage at pin 2 of IC2a is therefore
above the voltage at pin 3 when the battery voltage is above
27V [3.3V x 8.19].
When this is the case, output pin 1 of IC2a is driven low,
pulling the gate of N-channel Mosfet Q3 to the same voltage as the negative terminal of the bottom battery. As the
source of Q3 is connected to the junction of the two batteries, Q3 is off and so does not interfere with the operation of the balancer.
However, should the total battery voltage drop below
27V, the output of IC2a goes high, switching on Q3 and
effectively shorting input pin 3 of IC1a to the junction of
the two batteries. This means that the voltages at pins 5
and 6 of IC1b will be equal (with no current flow through
the 47mΩ resistor, as will quickly be the case), therefore
preventing any balancing from occurring.
When the output of IC2a goes high, this also causes a
slight increase in the voltage at its pin 3 input, due to the
10MΩ feedback resistor. This provides around 1% or 250mV
hysteresis, preventing the unit from toggling on and off
rapidly. In other words, the battery voltage must increase
to 27.25V to switch the balancer back on.
When the output of IC2a is low and the balancer is active, IC2a also sinks around 0.25mA through LED1 and its
100kΩ series resistor, lighting it up and indicating the balancer is operating.
And when one or the other battery is being shunted, IC2b
amplifies the voltage across the 47mΩ shunt by a factor
of 2200 times. So if there is at least 20mA being shunted,
that results in around 1mV across the 47mΩ resistor which
translates to 2.2V at output pin 7 of IC2b, enough to light
up either LED2 or LED3. LED2 is lit if it’s the upper battery
being shunted and LED3 if it’s the lower battery.
dissipate up to around 4.5W. If you’re using a 3A charger,
that means it can handle a ~10% imbalance in charge between batteries (which would be unusually high).
However, with a 10A charger, it will only handle a ~3%
imbalance, with a 20A charger ~1.5% etc. A greater imbalance could potentially lead to over-charging as the balancer
can’t “keep up”. So if your charger can deliver more than
5A, you may want to consider paralleling multiple balancers and we would strongly recommend it for a charger capable of 10A or more.
When properly adjusted, the balancers will share the
load. Realistically, one of them will start balancing first
but if it’s unable to keep the imbalance voltage low, the
others will quickly kick in and shunt additional current.
Since the only external connections are via 3-way pin
header CON1, you could simply stack the boards by running thick (1mm) tinned copper wire through these pads
and soldering them to each board in turn. You can then
solder the battery wires to these wires.
Changing the cut-out voltage
Construction
To change the cut-out voltage, simply change the values
of the 6.8MΩ and 390kΩ resistors using the following procedure. First, take the desired cut-out voltage and divide
by 3.3V. Say you want to make it 24V. 24V ÷ 3.3V = 7.27.
Then subtract one. This is the desired total value, in megohms. So in this case, 6.27MΩ.
This can be approximated a number of ways using standard values. For example, 3.3MΩ + 3.0MΩ = 6.3MΩ which
is very close. So use these values in place of the 6.8MΩ
and 390kΩ resistors.
Keep in mind there will still be around 1% hysteresis,
so the switch-on voltage will be about 24.24V.
Two more examples would be a 22V cut-out, which would
require 5.67MΩ total; you could use 5.6MΩ + 68kΩ. Or for
a 20V cut-out, you would need 5.06MΩ which could be
formed using 4.7MΩ + 360kΩ.
The 12V Battery Balancer is built on a small doublesided PCB measuring 31.5 x 34.5mm and uses mostly surface-mounted parts. These are all relatively large and easy
to solder. Refer to the overlay diagram, Fig.2, to see where
each component goes on the board. Some of them (the ICs,
Mosfets, diodes and trimpot) are polarised so be sure to fit
them with the orientation shown.
There are two small SOT-23 package devices, Mosfet Q3
and voltage reference REF1. Fit these first. They look almost
identical so don’t get them mixed up; only the tiny coded
markings on the top of each set them apart.
Tack solder the central pin to the pad in each case then
check that the other two pins are centred on their pads and
that all pins are in contact with the PCB surface. If not, reheat the initial solder joint and nudge the part into place.
Then solder the two remaining pins and add a little extra
solder to the first pin (or a bit of flux paste and heat it) to
ensure the fillet is good.
Next, solder IC1, IC2, Q1 and Q2. They are all in eight-
Paralleling multiple boards
As stated, one board can handle around 300mA and will
74
Silicon Chip
Sourcing the parts
The PCB is available from the SILICON CHIP Online Shop
– simply search for the board code 14106181.
All the other parts are available from Digi-Key. While
they are based overseas (in the USA), you can pay using
Australian dollars and they offer free courier delivery for
orders of $60 or more. You can find the semiconductors on
their website by searching for their part number and then
narrowing down the list (eg, ignoring listings which are
out of stock or only sold in large quantities).
For the other, more generic parts like SMD resistors, you
can find them by searching for (for example) “SMD resistor 1206 4.7k 1%” and then sorting the result by price. The
cheapest part which matches the specifications should
do the job just fine. But be careful because sometimes the
search results include parts with different properties than
you are expecting. You will need to skip over those.
Mouser, another large electronics retailer based in North
America, will almost certainly have all the required parts
too. And if you don’t want to order from overseas, chances
are that you can get most of them from element14 (formerly
Farnell; http://au.element14.com).
Celebrating 30 Years
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pin packages and must be orientated correctly. Identifying
pin 1 can be a bit tricky. For IC1 and IC2, you have to find
the chamfered edge which is quite subtle. Pin 1 is on that
side. Q1 and Q2 have pin 1 marked by a much more clear
divot in the corner of the package. But you can also orientate IC1 and IC2 by matching the position of the markings
up to our photo.
In each case, make sure the device is positioned correctly and tack solder one pin, then as before, check the
locations of the other pads are correct and solder them
before refreshing the first joint. If you accidentally bridge
two pins with solder, use a little flux paste and some solder wick to clean it up.
The only remaining SMD parts which are polarised are
diodes D1 and D2. Fit these now, ensuring the striped end
goes towards the top edge of the PCB, as shown in Fig.2
and marked with “K” on the PCB. Then solder the two
3W resistors in place. Follow with the remaining SMD ceramic capacitors and chip resistors as shown in the overlay diagram.
For the two-pin devices, make sure that you apply the
soldering iron long enough so that the solder adheres to the
PCB and the component. Adding a little flux paste to the
PCB pads before positioning the part will make this easier.
There is a single component on the underside of the
board, a 10MΩ resistor positioned between CON1 and VR1.
Solder it in place but use a minimal amount of solder, so
that you don’t plug the through-holes underneath. You can
add more solder later after CON1 and VR1 are in place.
All that’s left then is to solder trimpot VR1 with the adjustment screw orientated as shown, and a pin header for
CON1. We used a normal pin header but a polarised header
would be a good idea if you’re going to use a plug to make
connection to the batteries so that it can’t be accidentally
reversed. If it is reversed, D1 & D2 should prevent damage
but the balancer won’t work!
Or you can solder the battery wires directly to these
three pads. They only need to be rated to handle 300mA
per board; medium duty hookup wire should be more than
sufficient, even if paralleling multiple boards.
Testing & set-up
Connect your batteries in series, then connect the negative-most terminal directly to the negative terminal on
CON1. Do not connect the junction of the two batteries to
the Balancer just yet.
Ensure that the total battery voltage is well above the
threshold and that they are reasonably close to being balanced. You can ensure they are balanced by charging both
independently and then connecting them in parallel via
a low-value, high-power resistor (eg, 1Ω 5W) and leaving
them for a few hours. The voltage across the resistor should
drop to a very low level once their voltages equalise.
Now connect the most positive terminal to the positive
pin of CON1 via a 1kΩ resistor and check that LED1 lights
up. LEDs 2 & 3 should remain off. Measure the voltage
across the 1kΩ resistor. It should be under 20mV. If it’s under 5mV or over 20mV, disconnect the battery and check
for errors in your PCB assembly or battery wiring.
Assuming the voltage is within the specified range, remove or short out the 1kΩ test resistor and then connect
the junction of the two batteries to pin 2 of CON1. LED2
and LED3 may light up. If so, rotate the adjustment screw
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list –
2 x 12V Battery Balancer
1 double-sided PCB, coded 14106181, 31.5 x 34.5mm
3 3-way right-angle or vertical pin header (CON1)
Semiconductors
2 LT1495CS8 dual micropower op amps, SOIC-8 (IC1,IC2)
1 ZXRE330ASA-7 micropower 3.3V reference, SOT-23
(REF1)
2 DMC3021LSDQ dual N-channel/P-channel power Mosfets,
SOIC-8 (Q1,Q2)
1 2N7000 N-channel signal Mosfet, SOT-23 (Q3)
1 green LED, SMD 3216/1206 (LED1)
1 red LED, SMD 3216/1206 (LED2)
1 blue LED, SMD 3216/1206 (LED3)
2 S1G 1A schottky diodes or similar, DO-214AC (D1,D2)
Capacitors (all SMD 3216/1206 X7R ceramic)
2 100nF 50V (measure value before installing!)
1 10nF 50V (measure value before installing!)
Resistors (all SMD 3216/1206 1%)
For tips and tricks
6 10MΩ (Code 1005)
on soldering SMD
1 6.8MΩ (Code 6804)
components, refer to the
2 5.6MΩ (Code 5604)
SILICON CHIP articles
“How to Solder
1 2.2MΩ (Code 2204)
Surface Mount Devices”
1 1MΩ (Code 1004)
in March 2008
2 390kΩ (Code 3903)
www.siliconchip.com.au/
2 100kΩ (Code 1003)
Article/1767
2 10kΩ (Code 1002)
and
2 4.7kΩ (Code 4701)
October 2009
1 1kΩ (Code 1001)
www.siliconchip.com.au/
2 27Ω 3W (SMD 6331/2512)
Article/1590
[eg, TE Connectivity 352227RFT]
1 47mΩ [eg, Panasonic ERJ-L08KF47MV]
1 200kΩ 25-turn vertical trimpot (VR1)
in VR1 until they are both off.
Now check that there is no balance current flowing by
measuring the voltage between TP1 and TP2, and between
TP3 and TP4. In each case, the reading should be zero. If
you get a non-zero reading between TP1 and TP2, current
is flowing through Q1a. And if there’s a voltage between
TP3 and TP4, current is flowing through Q2b.
Since you started out with balanced voltages, this should
not be the case, so adjust VR1 further until you get a zero
reading across both pairs of test points. Ideally, VR1 should
be adjusted to halfway between the point where the voltage starts to rise between one pair of test points, and the
point at which the voltage rises across the other pair of
test points. This ensures the balancing will be, for lack of
a better word, balanced!
The maximum reading you should get between one pair
of test points should be 8.8V. Any more than that and you
risk the resistor dissipation rating being exceeded. In this
case, disconnect the batteries and change the 10MΩ resistor right next to VR1 on the top side of the board with a
slightly lower value (eg, 9.1MΩ or 8.2MΩ) to reduce the
current limit.
If that doesn’t fix it then it’s likely that the current limiting circuitry is not working so you should check for soldering problems or faulty components.
SC
Celebrating 30 Years
May 2018 75
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