This is only a preview of the February 2019 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 47 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Versatile Trailing Edge Dimmer with Touch Plate & IR ":
Items relevant to "El Cheapo Modules 22: Stepper Motor Drivers":
Items relevant to "Motion-sensing 12V Power Switch":
Items relevant to "USB Mouse and Keyboard Interface for Micros":
Items relevant to "Build-it-yourself DAB+/FM/AM radio":
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FEBRUARY
2019
ISSN 1030-2662
02
9 771030 266001
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We review:
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Contents
Vol.32, No.2; February 2019
Features & Reviews
14 Medical, Health and First Aid Smartphone Apps - Part 1
There’s an enormous range of apps out there which allow your smartphone to
do some pretty fancy diagnosis . . . or help your medical specialist treat your
particular malady with vital, accurate data – by Dr David Maddison
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Own a smartphone? Take
advantage of the huge
range of Android and
iPhone apps and addons available (and more
coming all the time) to
keep track of your health
– Page 14
30 Review: Rigol’s MSO5354 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope
Tim Blythman takes a detailed “hands on” look at this latest model from Rigol
(distributed by Emona). His verdict: “one we would definitely consider!”
35 El Cheapo Modules 22: Stepper Motor Drivers
Last month we explained in detail how stepper motors worked. Here are three
low-cost stepper motor drivers that you can use – by Jim Rowe
88 Review: Philips “Brilliance” Ultrawide Monitor
When they say “brilliance” and “ultrawide”, they’re not exaggerating! It’s almost
as big as your desk, meaning you can have so many windows open at once!
And the quality? As they say, “brilliance” – by Nicholas Vinen
Constructional Projects
20 Versatile Trailing Edge Dimmer with Touch Plate & IR
Most dimmers are “leading edge” meaning they’re hopeless with most electronic
lighting. Our new Trailing Edge Dimmer overcomes the problem – and gives you
both touch plate AND infrared remote control! – by John Clarke
Our new
“trailing edge” dimmer
has no problems with dimmable
LEDs, CFLs, etc – and you can
control it with an IR remote
or via a touch plate – Page 20
Ever wanted something to switch
a 12V circuit on when
it detects movement?
Here’s a cheap little
project that will do
exactly that!
– Page 48
48 Motion-sensing 12V Power Switch
Designed for a specific task but then we realised just how useful this circuit could
be! It’s cheap, it’s simple . . . but it works like a little beauty! – by Nicholas Vinen
68 USB Mouse and Keyboard Interface for Micros
Working with micros is fun – but how do you connect a USB mouse or keyboard
to them? We solve that little problem with this one – by Tim Blythman
80 Our new DAB+ Tuner with FM and AM: Building it!
Last month we told you about our world-beating DAB+/FM/AM receiver. Has that
caused some interest! Now the fun begins: putting it together – by Duraid Madina
Your Favourite Columns
42 Circuit Notebook
(1) Making a cheap WiFi controlled relay board work
(2) Modular quiz buzzer system
(3) Electret mic “crystal” set
(4) Four channel sound system using a single woofer
How DO you interface a keyboard
or mouse to a micro? With this nifty
USB Keyboard & Mouse Interface,
that’s how! – Page 68
We introduced our
new world-beating
DAB+/FM/AM receiver
last month . . . now we
get into the fun part:
BUILDING IT!
– Page 80
62 Serviceman’s Log
(What) were the designers thinking? – by Dave Thompson
94 Vintage Radio Workbench
1970s BWD 216 Hybrid Bench Supply – by Ian Batty
Everything Else!
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
siliconchip.com.au
61 Product Showcase
102 SILICON CHIP Online Shop
It’s not just wide, it’s ultrawide! The
49-inch curved Philips Brilliance
499P9H is “strongly recommended”
104
111
112
112
Ask SILICON CHIP
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes and Errata
– Page 88
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Editor Emeritus
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Bao Smith, B.Sc
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
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PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
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Associate Professor Graham Parslow
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Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
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Editorial Viewpoint
Beware of dodgy and counterfeit
electronics
It’s bad enough that we are bombarded with so many
scam e-mails, phone calls and letters these days. But
you also need to be on the lookout for dodgy products.
Sometimes we order products from suppliers that
we haven’t dealt with before, either because we can’t
find them elsewhere or when there are delivery delays
with our usual suppliers, only to receive either counterfeits or poorly-designed clones. Often, we pay the
same for these dodgy parts as we would for the genuine articles.
For example, we purchased some batches of 74HC595 logic chips for our
LED Christmas Tree kits (which were resoundingly popular). We ordered
batches from different suppliers in case some of them were delayed, as we
needed to get them in customers’ hands well before Christmas, giving them
time to build the trees.
Many of the chips we received were fine. But a couple of batches were
faulty. And I don’t just mean one or two chips; out of hundreds of chips,
none of them worked. The dud chips came from at least two different suppliers but they all had the same date code etched in the top, along with a
Texas Instruments logo. That certainly doesn’t guarantee they were actually
made by TI, though!
Their quality assurance (QA) process would have picked up a failed batch
of chips and they would have been discarded. So either these chips were
pilfered from the rubbish tip and sold to us, or they were counterfeits, brazenly etched with the TI logo.
Why someone would bother producing fake chips that are so cheap is a
mystery to me.
Luckily, after complaints from customers over the first batch, we wised up
and tested all the chips we received. And we were able to replace most of
the first batch before they had been used. But it was still a huge hassle and
we didn’t get our money back from all the suppliers either.
So you really need to watch out for this sort of thing when you are buying
electronic components from online marketplaces. Stick with the big-name
suppliers where you can. You’ll get what you pay for and if you do have a
problem, you can ask for a refund.
You should also be aware that some of the “El Cheapo Modules” that we
write about suffer from shady practices. When a module becomes very popular, clones are produced in large quantities and they are sold as if they are
the genuine article. In many cases, the clones work fine but in others, they
have design flaws or are poorly made.
The CP2102-based USB/serial modules are a good example. Some of the
clones don’t seem to have genuine CP2102 chips on them, as there is no etching on the top of the package. They work but the “3V3” output voltage is not
correct, due to a PCB design flaw.
There are also plenty of clones of the popular BMP180 temperature/humidity module. Some have a mounting hole that’s way too large but otherwise seem to work OK.
It’s amazing what people will do to make a couple of dollars. You need to
be vigilant when ordering from online marketplaces to make sure that you
get what you pay for. Unfortunately, that’s the flip side of the coin of these
handy little electronics modules being so cheap.
And don’t get me started on the wildly optimistic mAh ratings of so many
18650 Li-ion cells, jumpstarter packs, and the impossibly high lumen ratings
of some high-powered LEDs...
Nicholas Vinen
Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2148.
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Helpful advice on finding and replacing
failed SCRs
On pages 109-110 of the January
2019 issue, B. F. of East Malvern, Victoria asked for help regarding a replacement SCR for his sewing machine. You
were helpful in providing a link to the
service manual for the machine.
I have looked at the final page of the
document in the link which contains
the schematic and the only SCR visible is a low-power device labelled V2.
All this does is drive the LED which
indicates the oil level. Otherwise, the
machine appears to be mostly pneumatic/hydraulic in operation.
Since B. F. gives no details other
than it is a “low power” thyristor operating with a 24-30V supply, I suggest
that he could use a 2N5061 (TO-92,
50V, 0.8A) to replace the original TAG
8706. This is available from Aztronics
at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aamk
I can provide some help to M. R.
who, in the same column, requested
help to find an equivalent SCR to the
2N6170 in his Dunlite generator control system.
NTE show the NTE5566 as a possible equivalent to the 2N6170 and
this can be purchased via Newark at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aamn For
more details, see: www.nteinc.com/
Web_pgs/SCR3.php?a=12
There are also a couple of RCA
equivalents listed on eBay. They are
not cheap but then neither are the alternatives. See the RCA T6420M at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaml or the
RCA S6420M at: siliconchip.com.au/
link/aamm
Ross Herbert,
Carine, WA.
Bluetooth transmitter wanted
for DAB+ radio
I’m very impressed with the DAB+/
FM/AM Tuner design that you have just
published. I hope to be able to build
one, with most/all SMDs pre-mounted.
4
Silicon Chip
I don’t know that my soldering skills/
equipment are up to soldering SMDs,
despite reading several articles on the
appropriate techniques!
One suggestion I have for this project is to add the ability to connect, via
Bluetooth, a speaker.
Given the ubiquity of these devices,
it would appear to be more convenient
than connecting it to a separate speaker
unit via a cable. I would mainly be using the unit to take on holidays to keep
abreast of the local and regional news
and for background listening at home.
No doubt you’ll be inundated with
suggested improvements, some probably encompassing shortwave reception (I’d be keen on that also), but I
hope that adding Bluetooth capability
would be a reasonably easy exercise.
Many thanks for a great magazine.
Richard Bond,
Nunawading, Vic.
Response: you are right about the suggested improvements. At this stage,
the only add-on that hasn’t been
suggested is one that dispenses tea
or coffee!
Luckily, what you are after is quite
easy to achieve. You just need to purchase a low-cost Bluetooth transmitter
(typically less than $5) and connect it
up to the line outputs using an RCA to
3.5mm jack plug cable.
They are usually powered from a
USB supply so you could use a dualoutput charger to run the radio and
the Bluetooth transmitter.
If you need to integrate it with the
radio, you can mount the Bluetooth
transmitter inside the case using double-sided tape, cut short a USB cable
and solder its red and black wires to
the 5V supply rail on the radio board
(or Explore 100) to power the transmitter.
A stereo audio cable with 3.5mm
jack plug can then be cut short and
soldered to the stereo line out solder
pads to feed audio to the transmitter.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Using USB power banks in
low-drain applications
I was planning to use a USB power bank to provide power for a small
robot, as they are cheap, have a high
capacity and provide a regulated 5V
output. However, I have discovered an
annoying feature of two of the power
banks that I have.
I have a Bauhn power bank that I
bought from Aldi some years ago. Its
5V output is enabled by pressing a button and remains active even with no
load but the other two power banks
are different.
They don’t have power switches.
The 5V output is enabled when a load
is applied and if the load current drops
below a certain level, switch off after
a short time.
I had fitted the movement controller to the robot and was checking its
operation using one of the other power banks when it stopped working. I
had been testing the wheel motor operation and it was fine. But it stopped
while I was checking the steering operation as there was very little load
current.
After some load testing of the power
banks, I discovered that the minimum
load current for the output to remain
on varies from unit to unit, typically
being around 50-100mA. Often, the
output is enabled with a minimal loading at first but will not remain on for
very long if the minimum load condition is not met.
It’s a pity since the power banks
provide a stabilised 5V supply using
lithium batteries without the worries of designing for charging, over
discharge, and short circuit protection. Also, spare power banks provide
easy change-over when recharging is
required. It’s also easy to upgrade to
a higher capacity unit. They all use
the same USB plug. It is truly plugand-play.
It is a pity that a minimum current
siliconchip.com.au
must be maintained. When a power
bank turns off, the load must be disconnected and re-connected for the
power bank to turn on again.
It will not turn on while the load
remains connected. Even those banks
with power-on buttons do not necessarily remain on unless there is a significant load on the output.
Finally, be aware that there is noticeable switchmode noise. Even so, with
the load kept above the minimum, I
have been able to do quite a bit of testing on the little robot.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
Response: this is something we have
also noticed. It’s a pity since the USB
power banks are so handy otherwise.
One possible solution is to “roll your
own” USB power bank by combining a
LiPo battery pack bought from a hobby store with the Elecrow 1A charger
board that we described in our August 2017 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10754).
That will provide an output of up to
1A at 5V with a manual power switch
that won’t be overridden and it’s easily charged by plugging it into a USB
charger or port.
You could connect multiple LiPo
cells in parallel to make as big a battery as you need. It is a bit more expensive but it will do the job.
The only other solution we can think
of would be to open up and modify the power bank to prevent it from
switching off by itself but the required
modifications will be different in each
case and in some cases, it may not be
possible.
For example, if the design uses a
shunt to monitor the load current, you
could increase the value of the shunt
to lower the switch-off current (at the
risk of lower efficiency and maybe even
overheating).
Getting analog audio out of a modern TV
Browsing through recent issues of
Silicon Chip, I noticed a query from
one of your readers in Ask Silicon
Chip, August 2018 (page 98), on how
to connect a modern television to an
audio amplifier.
I believe you will find that most, if
not all, modern TVs have 3.5mm stereo headphone output sockets. These
can be directly connected to most audio amplifiers via standard stereo jack
plug to twin RCA audio cables.
Jaycar sells a cable which should
6
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
meet your reader’s requirements, Cat
WA7014, for around $6.50.
Herman Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW.
Nicholas responds: you are right; in
fact, we mention this very fact on
page 96 of that same issue, regarding
a query about using hearing aids with
a smart TV. But as you suggest, not all
TVs have the headphone socket and if
they don’t, feeding the digital output
to a DAC is the best solution.
We published a letter on page 5 of
the July 2015 issue from a reader with
hearing aids who said that his TV does
not have a headphone socket and he
used a Jaycar DAC to get around this
limitation. I have never seen a headphone socket on my TV at home, although it’s possible that it has one hidden away somewhere.
Support for pre-soldered SMDs
Regarding your new DAB+/FM/AM
tuner, please add my name to the list
of people who are interested in buying the PCB with as many pre-soldered
SMD components as possible.
I have never soldered an SMD device in my life, and with a slightly
shaky hand, am not all that confident!
Standard leaded components are OK
for me to solder.
Over the years, I have built a number
of Silicon Chip projects, and all have
worked first go.
Adrian Vermeulen.
Ferntree Gully, Vic.
Response: unfortunately, this board
has too many components for it to be
practical for us to fit them all but it
will be much easier to build if you purchase the version with the most challenging components already in place.
The remaining SMDs are much easier
to work with.
This design would be impractical
if we used through-hole components
(they wouldn’t fit, for a start) but we
will undoubtedly continue to produce
other through-hole based designs
where practical.
NBN Fixed Wireless woes
We live in Dundathu, around 100km
south-east of Bundaberg. So we’re a little off the beaten path but not exactly
out the back of Woop Woop.
It was only relatively recently that
we were able to get ADSL1. That was
a huge improvement over the satellite
service that we had previously but the
best speed we could get was around
siliconchip.com.au
6.5Mb/s download and 0.2Mb/s to
0.3Mb/s upload with a ping of around
33-34ms. But then we started having
a lot of reliability and speed issues
with our internet after our neighbour
got ADSL too.
When the NBN was rolled out in
our area, we were told by NBN that
we could get fixed wireless. However,
I knew that we were well out of range
of the tower, which was located on
the other side of a hill and only a few
houses at the top of our street were
able to receive this service.
After more than a year of NBN Co
insisting that we could get NBN fixed
wireless and me telling them that we
couldn’t, we decided that enough was
enough and we ordered an NBN fixed
wireless plan.
When the technician came to install
the aerial, he said straight away that
he doubted that we could get a strong
enough signal here. I told him I already
knew that.
He went to a lot of trouble trying to
get a good signal from one end of the
roof to the other and in all directions.
He said that he needed a minimum of
-99dB, but the best he could get was
-110dB from the closest tower on the
other side of the hill and -128dB from
another tower in the other direction.
So finally, NBN Co had to accept the
fact that we could not get NBN fixed
wireless here. They should have listened to someone with local knowledge who knew what they were talking about!
No doubt the location of the NBN
tower was chosen by someone behind
a desk in Melbourne with no local
knowledge; otherwise, it would have
been more sensible to locate the tower
on the hill where the coverage would
have been a lot better.
Every NBN employee who came to
our premises agreed with me that the
location of the tower was inappropriate and it would have been better to
be on the hill. Apparently, no consideration was given to reception in this
area, when the tower location was set.
Then we started having a lot more
problems with our ADSL. At one point,
we had a ping of 10,682ms with a
download speed of 0.003Mb/s and an
upload speed of 0.001Mb/s. At other
times, the internet was so bad that we
couldn’t even run a speed test, as it
just came up with an error.
After multiple calls to our ISP, they
finally fixed the line and now our in8
Silicon Chip
ternet is reliable most of the time.
However, there are still times that the
internet is unreliable or very slow, but
this is less frequent than previously.
Our best ping is 33ms, our best
download speed is 7.1Mb/s and our
best upload speed is 0.4Mb/s. But most
of the time it isn’t quite that good.
Even a friend of ours who is on
NBN FTTN can only get a download
speed of around 8Mb/s, but his upload
speed is 4Mb/s with a ping of 12ms.
So much for the idea that NBN is going to revolutionise internet speeds
here in Australia!
The current situation here is that
we cannot get NBN internet and it
doesn’t look like we will be able to get
ADSL2+ either. Two options are available to provide us with better internet
service, but neither NBN or Telstra is
prepared to undertake the necessary
work involved.
The NBN main fibre cable runs past
the park at the top of our street, so
NBN could install a node in the park to
provide us with NBN FTTN or Telstra
could upgrade their RIM in the park
to provide us with ADSL2+.
Either of these options would give
us a download speed of at least 12Mb/s
and an upload speed of over 1Mb/s
and it would be a much more reliable service.
I wish that we could get the “lousy”
95Mb/s internet that Dave Thompson
had (several upgrades ago) in Australia, because that would be a vast improvement on anything that we can
get over here!
Bruce Pierson,
Dundathu, Qld.
Variations discovered in CP2102
USB/serial modules
You published my letter on page 6 of
the October 2018 issue, where I mention that I found a design flaw in the
CP2102 USB-to-serial converters in
your Online Shop that causes the 3.3V
output to sit at around 4.2V.
I have since discovered that some
modules do output the correct 3.3V,
so some manufacturers have picked up
on the problem. This includes one of
the modules I bought from your shop.
I can see under magnification that the
manufacturer has left out the track to
the reset pin on the CP2102 IC, which
solves the problem I mentioned before.
Your modules with the problem
have no marking on the CP2102 IC and
have HW-198 printed on the back of
Australia’s electronics magazine
the PCB. The modules which operate
correctly have nothing printed on the
back and the IC appears to be a genuine CP2102 which is marked with that
part number.
Peter Ihnat,
Wollongong, NSW.
Response: we will try to weed out these
HW-198 modules from our stock. Unfortunately, it’s hard to know whether
we will be getting a genuine or clone
version when we order them.
Not happy with lack of Banggood
after-sales service
I am an ex-technical officer who
has spent many years as a data analyst and am now returning to electronics. I have enjoyed your magazine for
some time now.
I particularly enjoy hearing about
the new items where small modules
can now do the work of what would
have taken a massive box of electronics when I first started (“El Cheapo
Modules”).
Banggood has generally been a particularly useful source and having
read one of your articles about their
DSO138 Digital Oscilloscope in your
April 2017 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10613), I bought one. Unfortunately, it arrived with minimal packaging and so one of the switches was
broken as a result.
I have tried communicating with
them twice. Sadly they haven’t even
had the courtesy to reply and so I
will have to dispute the charge on my
credit card.
This is a pity as my overall experience with both your magazine and
Banggood (and similar suppliers) has
been excellent and this situation is
an anomaly. But sadly, the after-sales
service of Banggood leaves a lot to be
desired.
John Evans,
Macgregor, ACT.
Expandable Multi-channel Mixer
design desired
I recently found out that my daughter was given an electric bass guitar
from a friend. She had many lessons
on the electric guitar when she was
younger.
My first thought was to build her
a mixer and an amplifier to suit the
guitar. I found my reading glasses and
went to look for some old magazines
with suitable circuits.
When I was a teenager in the 70s, I
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip--Order with Confidence-Rockstar-205x275.pdf
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Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 9
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Silicon Chip
built an ETI stage mixer with a couple
of 100W amplifiers. But I couldn’t find
any suitable, modern designs. My next
thought was to look at eBay for a guitar preamplifier but I couldn’t find one
with tone controls to suit a bass guitar.
So I would like to suggest that you
publish a modular stage mixer design
for young start-up bands and school
kids. It could be based on microphone
and hifi preamplifier modules that can
be bought from eBay.
It would be fun to get young’uns interested in electronics by letting them
put together what they need in any mix
they seem fit. They might need to build
something to mix all the separate outputs from all the boards together into
a common output. They could also
pick a ready-built amplifier to add to
the project, with the power rating they
can afford or need.
The whole lot could be built up like
a massive stage mixer, or jam it into
an old empty computer tower with
the pots where the CD and DVD used
to be and chuck in an MP3 player as
well, if needed.
Some of the preamp boards that are
commonly found on eBay are really inexpensive and would be easy to add
as the “band” grows.
I am not looking for hifi quality,
just something that’s easy to assemble and does the job. The goal would
be to build gear that they can use to
make a lot of noise, with half decent
sound quality, while they learn to play
together.
The speakers can be a follow-on
series, eg, 10-inch to 18-inch woofer
with a tweeter in a stage box for lots
of sound.
Michael Andersson,
via email.
Response: a modular mixer is a great
idea but we have thought about this
before and the difficulty is not the electronics, but the metalwork and cases.
Equipment used by bands tends to
take a lot of abuse which means that
the mixer would need a metal faceplate and probably a full metal case.
And if it’s expandable, that means a
custom case that can be changed to
suit a wide range of configurations.
It would be easy to build small electronic modules that could be linked together to form a mixer, and many beginners could successfully do so. But
we can’t see them cutting and machining large pieces of steel or aluminium,
accurately drilling and cutting dozens
Australia’s electronics magazine
upon dozens of holes and joining them
together to make the strong case that
would be required.
And while the eBay modules seem
attractive, there’s no guarantee if we
pick one (or a few) to build a mixer
around, that they will still be available
by the time the article is published, or
years later when someone may pick
up the magazine and decide to build
the mixer.
We have some ideas on how to get
around these problems, eg, linking
PCBs together to form the case, which
would satisfy both the modularity requirement and also provide an easy
way for us to get the case pieces premade with all the required cut-outs.
But that would require a lot of smart
design work to get right.
We’ll continue to investigate the
feasibility of such a design. In the
meantime, you might consider building one of the guitar preamplifiers we
have previously published, such as the
two-channel guitar preamplifier with
digital reverb from the November &
December 2000 and January 2001 issues (siliconchip.com.au/Series/134).
Windows Update causing
USB serial converter problems
Yesterday, my laptop undertook
a Windows 10 update. It must have
been a significant update as it took 90
minutes. After this, my CP2102-based
USB/TTL converter (Silicon Chip Cat
SC3437) no longer worked.
I tried re-loading the driver in Device Manager but I got an error message indicating that it failed to install.
I reverted to the previous version of
Windows 10 (Version 1709, Build
16299.248) and the CP2102 USB/TTL
converter operates fine.
I later discovered that downloading
the driver from Silicon Labs’ website
(siliconchip.com.au/link/aalb) fixed
this problem.
Gerard Lewis,
Wynn Vale, SA.
Getting custom speaker boxes made
I thought your readers might like
to see the custom three-way speaker
boxes which were made by my local cabinet maker, shown in the supplied photo. One $60 sheet of 20mm
thick craft wood is cut into the pieces
needed to build six pairs of speakers
in about 10 to 15 minutes.
Gluing the pieces takes less than
five minutes per speaker once you
siliconchip.com.au
have some practice and the only additional cost apart from the amplifier
and drivers is paint.
I was quoted $60 each to coat the
boxes with two-pack but that is outside my budget, so I painted them myself. I’ve also lined the cabinets with
acoustic foam and the design includes
a tuned port.
I have incorporated into each pair
of speakers a Dayton Audio KAB-250
2 x 50W Class-D audio amplifier with
Bluetooth support and the ability to
run from a Li-ion battery. I got those
from Wagner (WES).
I have built suitable passive crossovers into each speaker too. The amp is
in one speaker box and connects to the
other via a cable. The amplifier runs
off a 5A switchmode power supply.
I also included a Li-ion rechargeable battery into the cabinet with the
amplifier, so that the speakers can be
run away from mains power for several hours. It’s recharged by the same
power supply.
I find the resulting sound quality to
be very good. I have completed five
stereo sets and sold two, both going
to teenage girls who gave me positive
feedback. Both fathers are reportedly
jealous!
I have built several speaker kits over
the last 20 years but I most of them cost
a lot more to put together than this design. I am particularly happy with the
KAB-250 amplifiers.
siliconchip.com.au
You can get more information on
the KAB-250 amplifier module from
WES at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aamj
Phil Prickett,
Walkervale, Qld.
New balanced microphone preamp
wanted
You haven’t published a balanced
microphone preamplifier project since
2004. Integrated circuits for state-ofthe-art audio projects have improved
enormously since that 2004 Silicon
Chip design!
I have a $600 true capacitor performance microphone, plus a new SE V7
aluminium voice coil state-of-the-art
dynamic performance microphone,
so I need to build a new balanced mic
preamp.
So how about a new design at the
current state-of-the-art? If anyone can
do an up-to-the-minute balanced microphone preamp project, it will be
Silicon Chip. It will be another feather in Silicon Chip’s already heavilyfeathered cap!
So come on Guys, don’t keep me
and all the others who need and would
greatly appreciate such a project waiting any longer. Just get to it!
Otto Van DeZiel,
Alderley, Qld.
Response: we think the idea of a revised balanced microphone preamp
is a good one, but not because audio
ICs have improved enormously since
2004.
In fact, we would argue that they
have changed very little. Some of the
vaunted new whiz-bang audio ICs like
the LM4562/LME49710 turned out to
be disappointments, giving worse distortion (measured using multiple Audio Precision sets) than the venerable
NE5532/NE5534 in any circuit that we
swapped them into.
If we were to design the ultimate microphone preamp using current technology, it would almost certainly use
discrete transistors for the front end.
Using the right transistors, it is possible to achieve better signal-to-noise
ratios than even very expensive op
amps can. The good old NE5532 is
more than good enough for the final
gain stage.
By the way, we have published at
least two balanced mic preamps since
2004. There is John Clarke’s Microphone preamp for PCs & MP3 players in the July 2008 issue and the
Lump-in-the-Coax Mini Audio Mixer
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 11
in the June 2013 issue which incorporates a balance microphone input.
Admittedly, the latter one is not hifi; after all, it is a portable, battery-powered unit.
Pool safety for kids
I recently saw an article on the website http://slashdot.
org with the heading “Engineer Develops Sonar Alarm
System To Monitor Kids In the Pool” (siliconchip.com.
au/link/aamp). According to the article:
“When small children who have no business going into
the pool on their own are out playing near it, they wear
a special wristband. If they should fall in, the wristband
will generate a three-tone sonar signal as soon as it’s immersed in the water.
That signal will be detected by a hydrophone contained
within a receiver unit that floats in the pool. When that
happens, the unit will emit a 131-decibel alarm.”
I remember that you published something similar many
years ago. That just goes to show that you are often way
ahead of the curve! Keep up the great work.
Dr Lewis Williams,
Chifley, NSW.
Response: you are right, our Swimming Pool Alarm project
was published in the September 2000 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/4296)! We still think that was a great idea
and it could still be built today.
It’s intended to warn you if a child gets into an unattended pool, which is a slightly different situation than
you described, but still a very serious one.
We note that pool fencing laws are much more strict
now than they were back in 2000, no doubt due to many
tragedies since.
It seems a bit impractical to fit each child at risk with
a wristband, but if there are already other people in the
pool, there would need to be some way to distinguish them.
Electric shock hazard from water taps
I just saw a story on the ABC News website – the family
of the 11-year-old girl who received a severe electric shock
from a home water tap in March will receive $1 million
in compensation from the government. See: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aamo
Perhaps you can suggest a way that readers can establish if their home taps are safe or not.
Dr David Maddison,
Toorak, Vic.
Response: we mentioned this tragedy on page 7 of the May
2018 issue and it is not the first time we have warned that
domestic water taps can be a shock hazard. We ran an
article titled “Your House Water Pipes Could Electrocute
You” by Leo Simpson in the August 2014 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/7966).
That August 2014 article explained how to check whether your water pipes are safe. Basically, you turn on a large
appliance in your home, that will draw around 10A, but
leave everything else switched off.
Then you use a clamp meter to measure the current
flowing through the pipe to/from your water meter. If you
get a reading above 5A, that suggests your Earth stake is
not doing a good enough job.
It would also be a good idea, at the same time, to use a
multimeter set to measure AC volts between any exposed
12
Silicon Chip
water pipes on the outside of your home and a known-good
Earth; preferably, a 1m+ metal stake pushed into damp
soil. You should get a very low reading; no more than a
few volts. Any more is a cause for concern.
The real danger, though, is that if your Earth wiring or
stake has severe corrosion, it could measure OK today but
be dangerous tomorrow when the final strand corrodes
through. So it’s wise to regularly inspect your electrical
wiring and Earth stake and repair/replace either at the
first sign of corrosion or damage.
In our opinion, electrical authorities are too cavalier
when it comes to nipping these problems in the bud. Back
in 2014, Leo measured very large currents flowing through
his pipes, and those of his neighbours, and he reported this
to the relevant authorities. But since there did not seem to
be an immediate hazard, they said that there was nothing
they could do about it.
The problem with that attitude is that eventually it could
become a hazard and the first sign could be when another
person gets a severe electric shock. Addressing the root
cause then would be a case of closing the stable doors after the horse has bolted.
Very poor soldering in consumer equipment
I have written letters to you before about appliances
with bad terminations, for example, bedside lamps with
the arcing switch that my grandson found.
Now I have a story about my wife’s hair dryer which
she had been using daily for 4-5 years. I know that these
things are not expensive, so they are effectively considered disposable.
Recently she yelled out that it was giving out a strong burning smell and the handle was hot to touch. See the attached
photo of the poor soldering connections. There are several
dubious joints, including where the mains Active wire is
connected to the board and on the adjoining switch tag.
I think these joints are so bad that they must have a high
resistance and have started heating up excessively, leading to the bad smell and hot handle.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I would surmise that the board is assembled separately, then the wiring is attached to finish it off. It appears
that at no point did anybody notice the atrociously bad
solder joints.
Suffice to say, I re-soldered them, tested the dryer and
gave it back to the wife. It still smells a bit but the handle
does not get hot anymore.
To top that off, I purchased some solar garden lights for
$9 each. They have a switch to change from white light
to cycling red/green/blue. A nice Christmas effect, I suppose, to make the family happy.
On one of the five lights I purchased, the white LED lit
up regardless of the switch position. So in one position,
it gave white light only and in the other position, cycling
colours as well as white.
I undid three screws to open it up and found that two
of the wires soldered to the switch had been over-stripped
and both were too long. This resulted in the wires shorting to the switch’s metal body. So I snipped off the excess
length of both and the solar light performed as intended.
Brian Collath,
Moss Vale, NSW.
Response: while PCBs are often assembled by machines,
wires like that would usually be soldered by hand, along
with any large through-hole components.
Those solder joints are shocking. Some of them almost
look like they were missed entirely. It’s as if the person
doing the job gave up halfway through.
It’s an odd design. They have surface-mounted throughhole components as if fitting those components was an
afterthought, although it may actually be a space-saving
(or cost-saving) measure.
Photovoltaic boosting for hot water systems
I have been researching the plethora of so-called MPPT
photovoltaic (PV) direct water heaters and found them to
all be quite expensive, yet some of the circuits I see incorporate well under $100 of components.
I would like to see you publish a project covering a
PV-powered immersion heater (not just a solar diverter)
of at least 1kW. Four 250W panels are very affordable
these days.
Currently, I am using such a controller from Techluck
which cost just under $400. It is fitted to my 400L hot water tank with 1kW of panels and a 4.5kW heating element.
I notice on average that it seems to be able to hold 25°C
on cloudy days, and up around 35°C+ on sunny days.
I want to build a higher output system and possibly
build a couple more to help keep my pool warmer and
offset my heat pump usage.
Apparently, some smart people are using PV panels to
power in-slab electric heating, saving thousands of dollars yearly.
Adam Aitken,
via email.
Response: that is an intriguing idea but it would require a
lot of time and money for research, development and testing. It might also require some serious hardware, given that
you’re talking about multiple kilowatts of heating power.
You should also consider whether it would be more
economical to use the same number of PV panels to offset home electricity usage instead and use LPG or natural
gas for the hot water.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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You asked for it . . .
We’ve Delivered!
Over
265 Articles
from April ’97
right up to
date!
The Vintage Radio
Collection from the pages
of SILICON CHIP
“Vintage Radio” is one of the most
popular columns which appears
every month in Australia’s most-read and
authoritative electronics magazine, SILICON CHIP.
Over the years many readers have asked us if there was a
single source for all “Vintage Radio” articles so a particular
set or sets they have managed to get hold of could be
referenced. Until now, that was not possible.
But now it is!
#
We’ve put together a DVD containing every “Vintage Radio”
column for more than 20 years – from April 1997 right
through to December 2018 – and included an easy-to-read
index so you can nd the one you’re looking for.
They’re all provided in PDF format so the quality is even
better than in the magazine (you can actually read many
dials!). And there’s much more than radios – there’s articles
on vintage TVs, ampliers... all from a bygone era!
Physical DVD:
In paper sleeve
In deluxe case
As seen
above
– $55
– $60
(Plus $10 p&p within Australia)
Downloaded copy – $50
#To view, requires Adobe Acrobat on your
computer (free to download):
https://get.adobe.com/reader/
Cannot be used with an audio DVD Player
Exclusively available from SILICON CHIP: www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 13
Medical Diagnosis
and Monitoring
via
Smartphone
There have been many recent,
exciting developments in medicine
which take advantage of the power
and ubiquity of the smartphone.
This puts powerful diagnostic
techniques in the hands of
practitioners in the field, or in
many cases, patients themselves.
Part 1 –
Tests which used to take weeks
by
can now be done in minutes,
Dr David Maddison
very cheaply. Here are just some
of the latest in smartphone-based
medical technology.
A
s the cost of medical care continues to rise, the pressure
to reduce costs is mounting.
There is also a desire to monitor the
patient’s well-being on a continuous
basis.
One way to reduce cost is to reduce
or eliminate the need for patients to
visit medical centres for routine tests.
If the patient had a suitable testing
device, they could perform the test
themselves and transmit the results
to a medical specialist for evaluation
and diagnosis.
This would also allow the patient’s
condition to be monitored on a regu14
Silicon Chip
lar or even continuous basis.
Fortunately, today, most people carry with them most of the technology
needed to achieve this, probably without realising it.
It’s a device which contains a powerful computer and communications
system to process and transmit information to a diagnostician. Of course,
we’re talking about a smartphone.
In some cases, it doesn’t even need
any added hardware; the onboard camera, microphone and other sensors
such as accelerometers can be used to
monitor the patient.
Over time, smartphones tend to
Australia’s electronics magazine
incorporate more and more sensors.
There is no reason either why sensors already in separate handheld devices could not be incorporated into
a phone.
One example is a breath alcohol meter; relatively easily incorporated in a
smartphone, it would allow the user
to check that they are beneath the legal blood alcohol level before driving.
But it could also be useful for many
medical purposes.
Smartphone medical diagnostic
apps can be split into two types: those
which use the phone’s inbuilt capabilities, and those which require the addisiliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Miiskin app is used to
document changes in skin lesions,
rather than make diagnoses.
tion of a peripheral device to perform a
function that the smartphone is not intrinsically capable of (possibly in conjunction with other onboard sensors).
Examples of the former, described
in more detail below, include those
which can diagnose an eye condition
by imaging the eye directly, while others can read the result of a medical test
by sensing the colour that a specially
treated paper turns after being exposed
to the patient’s blood, saliva etc.
Examples in the second category
include as a peripheral to detect specific chemical compounds in the patient’s breath which are indicative of
disease, and microscope attachments
to observe bacteria or genetic markers.
Some of the technologies described
in this article are already available for
use while others are still under development. The technologies described
here are only a subset of the hundreds
that already exist or are under development.
graph your body and compare it with
new images taken, say, six months or
a year later. Changes in the images automatically flagged information for the
specialist to further investigate.
While there are still a few of these
centres around, they have largely been
overtaken by the camera and apps built
into smartphones.
These apps are now being used to
diagnose and document changes in
possible skin cancers or pre-cancers.
There are at least 26 such apps and
while they could be very useful for
people living in remote areas, they
should not replace regular GP or skin
cancer specialist visits.
There are also some ethical and other concerns with using these types of
apps, which are described in an article
at Bioengineering Today: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aamf
Some of these skin cancer recording
and/or diagnostic apps are as follows:
Miiskin (https://miiskin.com/) does
not attempt to make a diagnosis but
is simply a tool for documenting the
changes in skin spots over time, as described above (Fig.1).
UMSkinCheck (www.uofmhealth.
org/patient+and+visitor+guide/myskin-check-app) from the University
of Michigan (USA) is another example of a skin cancer app that is used
to document changes in possible skin
cancer lesions (Fig.2).
With SkinVision (www.skinvision.
com/), a smartphone is used to take a
picture of a suspicious skin spot. It
Fig.2: screen grab from the
UMSkinCheck app.
uses a combination of machine learning and in-house dermatologists for
diagnosis.
If the software determines that a spot
is a high risk for cancer, it is reviewed
by a dermatologist (Fig.3).
For a scholarly discussion of these
apps, see the abstract at: www.ncbi.
nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29292506
DermLite (https://dermlite.com/
products/dermlite-hud) uses a supplemental rechargeable magnifier
that uses polarised light in conjunction with the smartphone camera. The
device is used to make high-quality
Detecting skin cancers
Some years ago, a number of skin
specialists set up clinics to photosiliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: screen grabs of the SkinVision app. It utilises fractal geometry to make its
assessment.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 15
Medical monitoring apps
and devices you may
already be using
Without realising it, you may already have used apps that could be
considered medical in nature.
With today’s emphasis on keeping fit, there is a plethora of apps
out there for use on smartphones to
monitor excercise, heart rate, etc.
Others use an app to record what
goes in – their food, etc.
For example, many people use
MyNetDiary (app only) to track
their diet, a FitBit (app and hardware) to track exercise and WakeMate (app and peripheral, out of
production) to monitor sleep patterns.
photographs of suspicious lesions, so
that one can share them with one’s
dermatologist for review (Fig.4).
Incidentally, at least some of these
apps are available to download free
of charge – if they ask you for your
phone number, don’t forget it should
be in international format (eg, for Australia, 61401234567).
Diabetes monitoring
There are numerous apps available
to allow diabetic patients to manage
their condition by recording what they
eat and so on, as well as blood glucose
levels. However, most of these require
manual entry of test data.
We’ll look at some of these in a moment.
But there was also an app announcement, in August 2017, from Epic
Health (https://epichealth.io/), which
is said to be able to use the smartphone
camera to check glucose levels.
Fig.4: the
DermLite HÜD
peripheral for
photographing
suspicious
lesions.
The app was said to work by having
a patient place their finger directly on
the smartphone camera and the image
is sent to a remote computer for analysis, to determine blood glucose levels based on the patient’s blood flow.
However, as of the time of writing,
there have been no further announcements on this app and we are somewhat sceptical that this scheme will
turn out to be reliable.
By contrast, there are Diabetesmonitoring apps which are already
in widespread use but they use more
invasive techniques, eg, a patch with
a tiny needle going into the patient’s
body, communicating with the phone
via Bluetooth.
That’s hardly surprising, given the
number of people suffering from (especially) type 2 diabetes – estimated at
around 1.2 million in Australia alone
and a whopping 422 million worldwide – up by more than 300 million
in the past 3 years.
Most diabetics monitor their blood
sugars manually, using a droplet of
blood on dedicated (one-use only) test
strip on a blood glucose meter.
However, one recently introduced
system is the Freestyle Libre from Abbott Laboratories (www.freestylelibre.
com.au) – see Figs.5 & 6.
It sends data from a tiny needle in a
patch worn (usually) on the arm. This
automatically transmits readings to a
special blood glucose meter which can
then transmit the stored data (up to 90
days worth) to an Android or iPhone
via another app.
This is claimed to be especially
useful for parents and caregivers who
can monitor blood glucose levels “on
the go”.
These have been widely promoted
recently but it would appear the major reason for lack of acceptance in
the diabetic community is, quite simply, their cost, compared to the more
traditional blood glucose meters and
test strips.
(The patch system is not [yet?] subsidised by the Government – ie, on the
PBS) whereas use-once test strips are
on the PBS)
There are yet other diabetes apps
which mate with the traditional blood
glucose and/or ketone meters that all
diabetics know.
We’ve seen a couple of these which
automatically (or manually) transmit
the meter’s readings to a smartphone.
This has a possible three-way benefit – (a) it saves the diabetic patient
from having to transfer their readings
to a diary; (b) the readings can be automatically forwarded on to the patient’s
specialist, and (c) some are said to be
capable of warning the patient where
there are significant changes in readings – especially ketones.
The one thing that they don’t do is
save the patient from pricking a finger
up to several times a day to obtain blood
Fig.5: the Freestyle
Libre system
continuously
monitors blood
sugar levels via a
“patch” worn on
the body, which
transmits data to
the blood glucose
meter. It can then
send data to a
mobile phone via
the LibreLinkUp
app, as shown in
Fig.6, right.
16
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the free CRADLE app for iPhone and Android devices, to detect leukocoria from photographs.
samples for the meter to analyse (the
part that diabetics universally hate!).
Diagnosing eye disease
A smartphone’s inbuilt camera can
be used to diagnose eye problems.
While “red eye” is a technical problem that many photographers experience, it’s not indicative of any health
problems (it’s caused by the camera’s
flash light reflecting off the retina inside the eye. Many cameras “double
flash” to make the eye’s iris close down
on the first flash and take the photo itself on the second flash).
However, so-called “white eye” or
leukocoria as seen in photos of both
children and adults can be a sign of
an underlying condition. Immediate
medical attention should be sought if
this is noticed.
And once again, there is a high
probability that in not-too-distant future, a smartphone camera could capture and compare images of the back
of the eye to detect the early stages of
diabetic neuropathy – a quite common and relatively serious effect of
diabetic damage.
There is also the possibility of smartphone apps being developed for early
diagnoses of cataracts, glaucoma, tunnel vision (retinitis pigmentosa) and
other eye disorders.
An app called CRADLE assists in
detecting early forms of some eye
diseases, although it is no substitute
for an examination by a medical professional. For more information, see:
https://cs.baylor.edu/~hamerly/leuko/
Monitoring Parkinson’s
disease symptoms
Parkinson’s disease results in tremors, stiffness and slow movements. It
is caused by a shortage of the neurotransmitter dopamine and its symptoms can vary widely.
Patients are typically assessed by a
specialist a few times a year, but these
tests are largely subjective and Parkinson’s symptoms are known to vary
drastically over time.
For improved symptom assessment,
it is important to monitor symptoms
much more frequently and using more
objective criteria.
mPower (parkinsonmpower.org/) is
a “mobile Parkinson’s observatory for
worldwide, evidence-based research”.
Fig.8: some sample screens from Sage Bionetworks mPower app for Parkinson’s disease sufferers.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 17
Fig.9: this shows
how the mPower
app works.
It is an iOS app designed by Johns
Hopkins University and the non-profit organisation Sage Bionetworks (see
Figs.8 & 9).
The purpose of this app is to participate in a study which allows patients
to monitor the progress of their condition on a regular basis, rather than infrequently by medical appointments.
Parameters such as gait and balance,
spatial memory, finger tapping and
walking can be monitored.
Data can also be acquired from wearable devices. The patients also have
the option to “donate” their data to
researchers.
Early insights into the disease made
by researchers using this data include
severity of symptoms as a function of
time of day and responses to exercise
or treatment. The higher frequency at
which data is collected leads to new
insights into the disease.
Note that only people who live in
the USA are currently eligible to participate in this study but there are
plans to extend it to other countries.
You can view a YouTube video playlist with instructions for the various
tests in the HopkinsPD app, the pre-
decessor of mPower, at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aamh
Using a smartphone for
remote diagnosis
Sana (http://sana.mit.edu/) is a system intended primarily for use in less
developed countries.
It provides a smartphone-based platform for communications between a
healthcare worker in the field and a
remote clinician for remote disease
diagnosis and data storage (Fig.10).
According to Sana, they use technology to “overcome resource limitations, focusing on analytics to drive
evidence-based quality improvement,
and an educational program for capacity building to promote locally
sustained innovation” in health care.
There are various similar projects
underway in Haiti, India, Lebanon,
Mexico, Philippines, Uganda among
other places. See the video titled “Mobile Medical Diagnostics” at: https://
youtu.be/h-Zz5a6ARsQ
Smartphone apps for clinical
trials and epidemiology
Patients undergoing clinical trials
Fig.10: the Sana app concept, showing communications
between a field worker and clinician and also the
intermediate data storage.
18
Silicon Chip
with new drugs are often asked to use
a smartphone app on a daily basis to
self-assess their symptoms, by rating
the severity of their condition on a
numeric scale.
This data is used to determine if
there has been an improvement in
their condition due to the experimental drug, side effects and so on.
Similarly, field health workers (especially in Third World countries)
can use smartphone apps to log incidences of disease outbreaks (such as
Ebola) into a central database, so their
spread can be tracked by authorities.
Diagnosis with a smartphone
and a passive device
In some cases, a smartphone app is
paired with a passive device like a skin
patch, to perform diagnoses which are
not possible with the phone alone
We’re referring to these devices as
passive since they don’t contain electronics. apps that use external electronics hardware will be described later.
Bacticount
Bacticount (http://bacticount.com/)
is a free, open-source diagnostic sys-
Fig.11: the Bacticount methodology.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The Qualcomm
Tricorder X-Prize
Fig.12: a series of Biosensors tattooed on pig skin for testing. Top row, from left
(a and b) show a glucose biosensor without and with glucose; bottom row, from
left (c and d) show a biosensor at pH 7.0 and pH 8.0; top row, last two (e and f)
show a sodium sensor in visible light and UV light; bottom row, last two (g and
h) show another type of pH sensor under visible light and at pH 8.0 under UV
light. Source: MIT Media Lab.
tem to identify microbial infections. It
is specifically designed to detect urinary tract infections but it can be made
to work with other types of infection.
It uses a process called smaRTLAMP or real-time loop-mediated
isothermal amplification to identify
bacteria on specially prepared plates.
These fluoresce if specific bacteria
are present and the amount of fluorescence can also be used to determine
the concentration of the bacteria. Up
to 36 samples can be tested at a time
(Fig.11).
Apart from the phone, the hardware
required costs around US$100. The
app is limited to the Samsung Galaxy
S7 phone due to camera calibration
requirements.
Bio tattoos
Biosensor tattoos have been developed at MIT and Harvard, under the
project name “DermalAbyss” or d-
abyss. These use the skin itself as an
interface to measure parameters such
as glucose, pH and sodium levels in
the blood.
The skin is injected with a biosensor
marker which changes colour according to changes in the parameter being
measured. The colour change can be
accurately measured with the camera
of a smartphone.
The concept has been tested on pig
skin samples in the laboratory; there
are currently no plans to bring the
project forward to a clinical trial or a
product for human use (Figs.12 & 13).
Next month:
When we started researching this
field, we never imagined there were
so many apps out there (much more
than we could fit in one issue!).
So next month, we will conclude this
feature with smartphone apps that use
additional hardware for diagnosis. SC
Similar to other X-Prizes you
may have heard of, the Qualcomm
Tricorder X-Prize was intended
to promote the development of a
hand-held medical device, much
like the fictional Tricorder from Star
Trek. The winning device was to be
able to “diagnose and interpret a
defined set of 13 health conditions
to various degrees, while continuously monitoring five vital health
metrics”.
(We discussed the Google Lunar
X-Prize on page 8 of the November
2018 issue, which was established
to encourage private space companies to build a moon lander).
No team met all the requirements
of the full prize in the required time,
but in 2017, the top prize of US$2.6
million was won by the family-lead
team Final Frontier Medical Devices and the second prize of US$1
million was won by Dynamical Biomarkers Group.
Both devices are mentioned in
the second article in this series.
DxtER was described as an “artificial intelligence-based engine that
learns to diagnose medical conditions by integrating learnings from
clinical emergency medicine with
data analysis from actual patients.
DxtER includes a group of non-invasive sensors that are designed
to collect data about vital signs,
body chemistry and biological functions. This information is then synthesized in the device’s diagnostic
engine to make a quick and accurate assessment”.
Dynamical Biomarkers’ device
paired “diagnostic algorithms with
analytical methodology in a userfriendly device” and was controlled
using a smartphone.
For more details, see:
https://tricorder.xprize .org/
prizes/tricorder
Fig.13: some sample colour changes from biosensor tattoos. The specific
colours and thus the values being measured can be determined with a
smartphone camera and appropriate software.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 19
Smooth . . . Our Ne
With Touch and/or Remote Control
Our new dimmer works with most modern lighting,
including dimmable LEDs, dimmable fluorescents
and dimmable halogen downlights, as well
as the now old-fashioned incandescents.
It also has a really easy-to-use touch
control and even infrared
remote control, for ultimate
convenience! It’s ultra modern, easy to build
and simple to wire up.
By John Clarke
S
leek looks, smooth dimming
over a wide range, touch control
and infrared remote control are
just some of the outstanding features
of this new Touch and Infrared Trailing
Edge Light Dimmer from SILICON CHIP.
It is ideal for dimming modern
LED lamps and it does not have a
“last century” style adjustment knob.
You don’t control your phone or tablet with a knob, do you? You use the
touchscreen.
So don’t you also want a touch interface for your lighting?
And so that you don’t even have
to get up from your chair and walk
across the room, you can also use a
stylish slimline infrared remote control to control the lights. It even provides presets to quickly set the mood
that you want!
Virtually all lighting in new or
renovated homes is now LED-based,
20
Silicon Chip
which often means that these homes
lack dimmers. If the lamps are dimmable (or can be easily replaced with
dimmable versions), then a dimmer
like this one is great to retrofit since
there are times when you don’t want
full brightness.
Like when you have just woken up
in the morning!
But if you have a modern home, you
will want a modern dimmer, so this
one is a great choice.
Visually, its minimalistic style with
a brushed aluminium plate means it
will blend into a modern home – although it looks great in a more traditional setting too.
And the infrared remote control
option seals the deal. You can keep
it on your bedside table, dining table,
lounge. . . wherever you spend a lot
of time.
Watching a movie? Don’t get up
Australia’s electronics magazine
from the couch; you can dim the lights
just like in a cinema. The baby needs
changing during the night? There’s no
need to use bright light which can disturb sleep patterns. Just slept in? Ease
yourself into the day by slowly ramping up the bedroom lighting.
It’s unobtrusive too, because the
only part of the dimmer that you see
is the wall plate.
We use a commercially available
Clipsal Classic 2000 blank plate, so it
looks very professional and contemporary. A small lens is added to allow
for reception of the infrared transmission from the handheld remote control
unit. Extra wall plates can be added in
other locations if needed, too.
The infrared handheld controller
is not one you have to build yourself.
Instead, it is a small low cost, commercially available unit and it looks
attractive and professional.
siliconchip.com.au
ew Universal Dimmer
Features:
Trailing edge control – suits LEDs
Slimline appearance
Touchplate dimming – no knob
Optional infrared remote control
Soft on/off (rapidly ramps brightness up or down)
Supports multiple touch plates
Wide dimming range
Low electromagnetic interference (EMI)
Can operate without a Neutral connection
Hopefully, we’ve sold you on the
idea of this Dimmer. So read on to find
out what it can do and how it works.
Requirements for dimming
LED lights
You need a universal or trailing-edge
dimmer for dimming LEDs or compact fluorescent lights (see panel on
trailing edge dimmers). But you also
need to make sure that your lights are
designed to be dimmable. If they are,
it will say so on the packaging and it
will probably also be printed on the
lamps themselves.
Many LED and fluorescent lights are
not dimmable. And we’ve found that
even some that claim they are dimmable don’t always “play nice” with
certain dimmers!
So it pays to test the lights with the
dimmer you intend using before installing either.
Our Dimmer was tested with a few
different dimmable LEDs and we
found that it worked fine (as it should)
but there may be some LED lights out
there which will not work when driven from it, so you need to test them
siliconchip.com.au
yourself.
The same goes for halogens with
electronic
transformers.
The underside
of our new Touch/
Remote Control Dimmer. It mounts on
a standard Clipsal plate, which in turn
accepts a standard aluminium dress
panel.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Some are explicitly labelled as dimmable and most of them will work
with this Dimmer. Halogens powered
via traditional iron-cored transformers
are also dimmable. If you are running
several halogen or incandescent lights
with this Dimmer, be careful not to exceed its 250W maximum load rating.
Dimming control
The lamp(s) connected to the Dimmer can be controlled in two ways,
using the touch plate or via infrared
remote control.
With the touch plate, dimming
is initiated by simply holding your
hand on the touch plate. The light
brightness will smoothly decrease
or increase. Momentarily lifting
your hand and then re-applying
it to the touch plate will switch
between decreasing or increasing
brightness.
It takes three seconds for the light
to go from fully off to fully on or vice
versa. Dimming stops when either
minimum brightness or full brightness is reached.
Want instant light? A quick tap of
the touch plate will switch the light
on and another quick tap will turn it
off. When switching on, the lamp immediately goes to full brightness over
a brief period of around 0.4s (400ms).
This produces a smooth on/off effect
rather than an abrupt change in light
level.
Note that a quick tap is any touch
that measures between 140ms and
600ms.
Taps shorter than 140ms are ignored
(to prevent spurious light switching due to electrical noise etc) while
February 2019 21
Specifications
Operating mains voltage range: .............200-255VAC
Mains frequency: ...............................50Hz or 60Hz
Minimum load: .................................8W
Maximum load: .................................250W
Minimum brightness: ..........................0% (entirely off)
Maximum brightness: .........................100% when a Neutral connection is available; adjustable when it is not, up to about 95%
Brightness steps: ...............................2% (50 steps from off to full brightness)
Touch dimming time: ..........................three seconds from fully on to fully off or vice versa
Touch control commands: ....................switch on/off, brighter/dimmer
Infrared remote control commands: ........switch on/off, increase/decrease brightness fast (2s) or slow (9s), plus three presets
Dimming steps: ................................50 for touch control, 100/450 for infrared (fast/slow dimming)
Soft on/off time: ................................400ms
Quiescent power: ..............................around 1W
Touch control timing: ..........................Touched for <140ms: no action
....................................................Touched for 140-600ms: on/off alternate action
....................................................Touched for >600ms: begins dimming up or down; hold down to continue (alternate action)
presses longer than 600ms initiate the
dimming up/down function.
Infrared remote control
While the touch plate has effectively
only one control that has to perform
several functions, the handheld remote control unit has nine buttons,
as shown below.
All of these buttons control the Dimmer in some way.
The “Operate” or on/off button at
the top switches the lights entirely
The nine-button remote control we
used for this project. There are no
doubt many others available which
will do the job, but ours came from
Little Bird Electronics (www.littlebird.
com.au) for the princely sum of $5.87.
22
Silicon Chip
on or off, just like a quick tap of the
touch plate.
The circle button in the middle of
the directional arrows also switches
the light on or off, however, it works
slightly differently.
When you press it to switch the light
on, it will return to the same brightness level the lamp had before it was
last switched off.
Holding the up and down arrow
buttons provide a slow increase or decrease in brightness respectively, with
nine seconds required to go from fully
off to fully on or vice versa. The left
and right arrow buttons also decrease
or increase the brightness but do so
faster, taking only two seconds from
one extreme to the other.
The A, B and C buttons provide for
three different fixed brightness levels.
These are dim, medium and bright
lamp settings respectively. As with
the on/off control, rather than jumping
instantly to the new brightness level,
the unit quickly ramps the brightness
up or down as required, providing a
smooth transition.
When the Dimmer is initially powered up, the lamp remains off. The
Fig.1(a): when Mosfets Q1 & Q2 are
switched off, current cannot flow
through the lamp regardless of the
polarity of the Active voltage because
one of the two Mosfet body diodes will
always be reverse-biased and block
current flow. If a single Mosfet was
used, it would always conduct at least
half the time, severely limiting the
possible dimming range
Fig.1(b): when the gates of Mosfets
Q1 & Q2 are pulled at least 8V above
their source terminals (shown here
connected to circuit ground), both
Mosfets conduct and so current can
flow through the lamp regardless
of the Active voltage or the point in
the mains cycle. The forward-biased
body diode may conduct some current
depending on the voltage across the
Mosfets.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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6
TOUCH & REMOTE CONTROL TRAILING EDGE DIMMER
1
G
S
Fig.2: the circuit of the Touch and Remote Controlled Universal Dimmer. The yellow shaded box shows the optional
extension circuit, only required if you need two or more touch plates for control. Micro IC1 does most of the work,
controlling Mosfets Q1 and Q2 via optocoupler OPTO1 and an isolated power supply based on transformer T1. It
monitors the mains phase at pin 5 and times the switching of the two Mosfets to achieve the desired lamp brightness level.
standby power drawn by the Dimmer
circuit from the mains is just over 1W.
What if there is no Neutral
wire?
In most domestic installations, the
mains Neutral wire is not brought to
the light switch. The Neutral connection to the lamp is usually made in
the ceiling; only the lamp Active wire
and Active supply wire need to be run
through the wall cavity to the switch
or dimmer (it saves cable!).
That presents a problem for powering the dimmer circuit. When the
lamp is switched on at full brightness,
in theory, there is no potential difference between those two wires and so
there is no power available to run the
siliconchip.com.au
Dimmer itself.
But we need it to work in this situation since it is so common.
The solution is to limit the maximum lamp brightness to be just a little bit less than that achieved when it
receives the full 230VAC. Since dimming is done by switching the mains
off before the end of each cycle, that
leaves a small window where mains
voltage is still present but the lamp is
off. It is during that time that the dimmer draws the power it needs to operate from the mains.
If there is a Neutral connection
available, then the dimmer is powered
regardless of whether the lamp is on
all the time, so maximum brightness
will be available.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Our Dimmer caters for both wiring
possibilities. When the Neutral wire
is not available, you can set the maximum brightness of the lamp, so there
is enough mains voltage to power the
dimmer without the lamp flickering.
We will describe how this is done in
the constructional article next month.
LED light snap-on effect
Many mains-powered LED lamps
will “snap on” as the dimming control
is increased from off to a low brightness level. This means that the lamp
brightness may not rise slowly as expected; instead, the lamp remains off
entirely and then springs into life suddenly when you reach a specific brightness setting, with a higher brightness
February 2019 23
than you would expect.
This is due to the LED driver requiring a certain amount
of voltage and current to start up. Once it has started, you
can usually drop the brightness back down to a lower level
and the light will remain on.
In other words, you can’t get the lamp to light up dimly
when increasing its brightness from the off-state. You instead need to switch it on at an intermediate brightness and
then reduce its brightness to get it to dim correctly. This
effect is more noticeable when you are running the Dimmer without a separate Neutral connection.
Circuit description
The circuit of the Universal Dimmer is shown in Fig.2.
Despite providing many useful features, the circuit is quite
simple because most of the work is done in the software
running on the PIC12F617 microcontroller (ICI).
Mosfets Q1 and Q2 switch mains voltage to the lamp(s),
to control their brightness. The way that these control the
lamp load is shown in Fig.1. This configuration allows us
to control power over the entire mains waveform, switching mains power at the lamp on or off at any time.
The reason that two Mosfets are required for this job is
that a power Mosfet contains an intrinsic (or body or “parasitic”) diode which cannot be removed; it is inherent to
the structure of a Mosfet.
Since the current flow reverses for half of the mains waveform, if we used a single Mosfet, its body diode would conduct half the time and apply the full voltage to the load,
whether the Mosfet was switched on or not.
By connecting the two Mosfets in series, with the body
diodes in opposite directions and the Mosfets switched
off, current flow is blocked in both directions, as shown
in Fig.1(a).
When the Mosfets are switched on by pulling their gate
voltages high, as in Fig.1(b), current can flow in either
direction via the Mosfet channels, mostly bypassing the
body diodes.
The body diodes will only conduct if the current through
the channel high enough to create a voltage difference
across the Mosfet (due to channel resistance) that’s higher
than the body diode forward voltage.
Driving the Mosfet gates
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 switch on when their gate voltages are
higher than the common source terminal voltage. For these
particular Mosfets, the difference needs to be at least 8V
for conduction with minimal losses.
But the gate voltage can’t be too high as any more than
30V could damage the Mosfets. That makes it a bit tricky
to provide just the right voltage to keep them switched on
when necessary.
The easiest solution is to galvanically isolate the gate
voltage source from the rest of the circuit. This is mainly
since the +5V rail is connected directly to mains Active,
which is necessary for the touch control to work.
The problem is that even if we could generate the required 8-30V supply and then apply this to the Mosfet gates,
with their source terminals connected to circuit ground,
as soon as Q1 switched on, it would connect Active (+5V)
to ground, effectively shorting out the 5V supply and thus
shutting the whole circuit down.
By “floating” the gate supply, we eliminate this prob24
Silicon Chip
Leading vs trailing edge dimming
Our mains electricity supply (nominally 230VAC) is a 50Hz
sinewave. To provide a dimming function, this is normally
“chopped” in some manner by a switching device which interrupts the mains supply to the lamp, to reduce its brightness. The more of the time this switching device is on, the
brighter the lamp.
The most common method of chopping the mains waveform is “phase control”, where power is applied continuously
for some portion of each half of the mains cycle. Each half of
the mains cycle lasts for 10ms and for the entire period, the
Active conductor voltage is either higher or lower than the
Neutral voltage.
Between each half-wave, there is a “zero crossing” where the
Active and Neutral voltages are equal. Each full mains waveform (taking 20ms) is considered to have a phase from 0-360°,
with the two zero crossings having phase angles of 0° and
180° and the voltage peaks being at 90° and 270°; see Fig.3.
The terms “leading-edge dimming” and “trailing-edge dimming” refer to the fact that there are two main ways to provide
phase control. They work similarly but are generally used in
different circumstances.
If you delay applying the mains waveform to the load until
a particular phase angle – say, 45° – then allow it to continue
to be applied until the start of the next half-cycle, you have
reduced the RMS voltage at the load and therefore reduced
the power the load draws. This is known as leading edge dimming since you are delaying the leading edge of the mains
waveform “seen” by the load; see Fig.4.
Alternatively, if you apply power to the load from the start of
the waveform (ie, at 0°) and then cut it before the end of the
cycle – say, at 315° – then you are moving the trailing edge
of the mains waveform as seen by the load and that is known
as trailing edge dimming; see Fig.5.
In both of these examples, the RMS voltage applied to the
load is the same – around 219V RMS in a nominally 230VAC
system.
The leading edge dimmer has been used for around 50
years, mainly for dimming incandescent lamps. That is because it can be implemented using a simple circuit based on
a Triac, as shown in Fig.6.
The Triac is a four-layer semiconductor device which switches on when its gate is driven. But it can’t be switched off via
the gate; instead, it switches itself off when the current flow
through it drops to near zero.
In practice, when driving a resistive load like an incandes-
Fig.3: the Australian mains voltage is roughly sinusoidal
and repeats at 50Hz (ie, every 20ms). The negative-topositive transition of the Active voltage is considered the
start of each cycle and has a phase angle of 0°. The other
zero crossing is at 180° and the two peaks are at 90°
and 270°. During phase control, the power to the load is
switched at a consistent point in the cycle.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
cent lamp, the Triac switches off when
the mains voltage is near 0V. Hence,
it’s simple to provide leading edge
phase control.
Dimming LEDs
Leading edge dimmers are not
suitable for use with LED lamps or
halogen lamps with electronic transformers. That’s because in both cases, the control circuitry rectifies the
mains and then filters it with a capacitor. It is the charge on that capacitor
which then runs the remaining circuitry, including the lamp.
If a voltage is suddenly applied to
this type of circuit, the diodes in the
Fig.4: a leading edge dimmer varies
Fig.5: a trailing edge dimmer achieves
rectifier immediately conduct and
the switch-on point during the mains
a similar result but it instead switches
cycle but always switches off at the zero
the lamp on at the zero crossing and
draw a high current to charge the cacrossing. So the earlier it switches on, the
then switches it off at some point
pacitor quickly.
more power is applied to the load and
later in the mains cycle. The later the
Such a high inrush current is manthe
brighter
the
resulting
light
is.
But
this
switch-off, the brighter the lamp. This
ageable if it only occurs infrequentdoes not work well with LEDs or with
scheme is compatible with lamps that
ly, such as when a light is switched
other lamps that have electronic drivers.
have electronic drivers, including most
on, but if it’s happening every mains
dimmable LEDs.
cycle (when the Triac in the dimmer
switches on), it could lead to overTrailing edge dimmers need to use a switching device other
heating and failure.
than a Triac; one that can be switched off with gate control
And even if the dimmer and lamp can tolerate this situation,
at any part of the mains waveform. Fig.7 shows a simpliyou would still expect to see ringing, voltage excursions, exfied circuit of a typical trailing edge dimmer. The switching
cessive electromagnetic interference (EMI) and lamp flashing
device is normally one or two Mosfets or IGBTs (insulated
rather than dimming. So clearly it is not workable.
gate bipolar transistors).
The solution is to use a trailing-edge dimmer instead. The
In the circuit presented here, we are using two Mosfets,
switching device now turns on at the mains zero crossing
connected source-to-source. Refer to the circuit description
where there is no potential difference between Active and
for details on why we’ve used that configuration. It allows
Neutral. The lamp voltage then rises relatively slowly and the
us to switch mains power to the lamp load on or off at any
rectifier diodes conduct once the mains voltage exceeds the
points in the mains cycle.
capacitor voltage. Current is drawn from the mains in much
For more information on leading and trailing edge dimmers
smaller and more tolerable pulses.
and their use with LED lamps, see the article titled “LED
Since LEDs are now basically taking over the lighting mardownlights and dimmers” in the July 2017 issue of SILICON
ket, leading-edge dimmers are giving way to trailing edge or
CHIP (www.siliconchip.com.au/Article/10712).
universal dimmers (which can operate in either mode).
S1
A
Ls
–
Cs
N
LAMP
LOAD
Ls
Fig.6: this shows how simple a Triac-based leading
edge dimmer can be. While this looks like a simplified
circuit, an actual dimmer is barely any more
complicated. Rt and Ct provide a variable time constant
that varies how late in the cycle the Diac “breaks over”
and triggers the Triac, which admits current to the lamp.
It automatically switches off at the next zero crossing.
Cs and Rs form a snubber to reduce EMI, and Ls helps
with EMI reduction too.
siliconchip.com.au
+
ZERO CROSSING
DETECTOR
AND PULSE
GENERATOR
HIGH
VOLTAGE
MOSFET D
G
S
SC
20 1 9
Fig.7: the circuit of a trailing edge dimmer is a little
more complex. This simplified diagram hides most of
the complexity inside the yellow box at right. The mains
supply is rectified to provide this control circuitry with a
power supply and also so that a single Mosfet can be used,
as it only has to switch voltage with a single polarity.
A capacitor is required (not shown) to maintain power
supply for the control circuitry while the Mosfet is on.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 25
The dimmer is constructed using two PCBs which “sandwich” one on another. The
assembly is mounted onto a Clipsal plate with a touch plate on the opposite side.
lem; the Mosfet source terminals no
longer need to be connected for circuit ground to allow us to control the
Mosfet gate voltage.
Transformer T1 both provides this
isolation and also steps up the 5V
control voltage to give a gate voltage
above 8V. This transformer comprises
a high-frequency toroidal ferrite core
with two copper windings. The primary winding is driven by a 2MHz
square wave generated at IC1’s clock
output (pin 3), via a 100nF AC-coupling capacitor.
The secondary winding has four
times as many turns as the primary
and is isolated from it. The secondary
AC waveform is half-wave rectified by
diode D2 and filtered with a 100nF capacitor. The result is a nominal 10V DC
with the negative side connected to the
source of Q1 and Q2, and the positive
side to the gates via a 22kresistor and
two 470resistors.
The gate voltage is controlled using optocoupler OPTO1. It’s necessary to maintain the isolation between
IC1, with its 5V rail connected to Active, and Mosfets Q1 and Q2. When
IC1’s GP5 output (pin 2) goes high,
OPTO1’s internal infrared LED is off.
When this pin goes low, around 2mA
flows through that LED, limited by
the 2.2kresistor from the 5V supply.
When this LED lights up, it shines
26
Silicon Chip
on OPTO1’s internal phototransistor,
shorting out the 10V gate supply to
Mosfets Q1 and Q2, switching them
off. When the phototransistor switches
off, the 10V supply can again pull the
Mosfet gates high and so they switch
back on.
The Mosfet gates are isolated from
each other with 470resistors to
prevent oscillation at switch on. A
1Mresistor between the collector
and emitter of OPTO1’s output transistor ensures that Q1 and Q2 remain
off when IC1 is not powered.
Mains zero crossing detection
To time the switching of Q1 and Q2
correctly, to get the desired dimming
level, IC1 has a timer which is synchronised with the mains zero crossing, ie,
the time when the Active and Neutral
voltages are equal (which happens 100
times per second with our 50Hz mains
sinewave). It therefore needs a way to
detect this condition, to synchronise
its timer.
This is detected at pin 5 of IC1,
via a 1.5Mresistor connected to the
Neutral conductor (which may be via
the lamp(s), in cases where a separate
Neutral wire is not available). Detection of the zero crossing is only made
at the negative transition, with the
positive transition timing being timed
as 10ms later.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The 1.5Mcurrent-limiting resistor
forms an RC low-pass filter in conjunction with the 4.7nF capacitor, which
is necessary to reduce the effects of
electricity authority control tones
which may be superimposed on the
50Hz mains.
These would otherwise cause a noticeable flickering in the lamp due to
modulated zero voltage detection.
This does, however, delay the detection of the zero crossing. IC1 compensates for this known delay to determine
the actual zero crossing timing.
Note that only one of the two zero
crossings is actually detected. The
other is calculated from it based on
the expected delay from either a 50Hz
or 60Hz mains frequency. This improves the stability of the dimmer,
especially when operating without a
Neutral wire.
Also, the software only checks the
state of pin 5 around the expected time
of the zero crossing.
If zero voltage detection was active
for the entire cycle, switching the lamp
on and off would cause false detection due to the change in voltage at
the zero voltage input when the lamp
is switched. This is important when
zero crossing detection is via the lamp
rather than directly from the Neutral.
Power supply
As you may have gathered from the
explanation above, the power supply
configuration for this circuit is intimately related to its operation.
That’s because it runs from the same
mains supply which it is also monitoring (for zero crossing events) and
switching. And in the case where you
don’t have a Neutral wire connected
to the device, it becomes quite tricky
indeed.
Besides the isolated Mosfet gate
driver section described above, the rest
of the circuit “floats” with the nominally 230VAC mains Active waveform.
In fact, the Active wire is tied directly to its +5V rail. So you can think of
it as if the circuit’s supply current is
drawn from the Neutral connection;
in practice, it flows between Active
and Neutral, with the current reversing 100 times per second.
This current flows to/from the Neutral wire through two 4701W series-connected resistors and a 470nF
mains-rated capacitor.
When the Active voltage is below
the Neutral voltage, the 470nF capacisiliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Trailing Edge Dimmer
Here’s the extension touch plate control
which is similar to the main PCB and
mounts in the same way (see below) . . .
tor charges via the two 470resistors
and ZD1, which is forward-biased and
acts like a standard diode.
When the Active voltage subsequently goes above the Neutral voltage, the 470nF capacitor discharges
through diode D1, charging up the
470µF electrolytic capacitor which
then powers the rest of the circuit.
Once the charge on the 470µF capacitor reaches 5V, any extra current
drawn by the circuit is shunted by
ZD1, to prevent the supply voltage
rising any further. It limits the supply to 5V, not 5.6V, due to the 0.6V
forward voltage of diode D1 when it
is in conduction.
When ZD1 conducts, it is the im-
. . . and
here’s the
extension
mounted on
the Clipsal plate.
siliconchip.com.au
1 double-sided PCB coded 10111191, 66 x 104mm
1 PCB coded 10111192, 58.5 x 104mm
1 Clipsal CLOPTO1031VXBA C2000-series standard blank plate with blank
aluminium cover
1 CLI449AWE mounting block (optional; see construction article text next month)
1 fresnel lens for IR sensor (Murata IML0688) [RS components Cat 124-5980]
1 infrared remote control [Little Bird Electronics SF-COM-14865]
1 CR2025 3V cell, to suit IR remote control
1 DIL-8 IC socket (IC1)
1 4-way terminal strip, 25A 300VAC with 9.5mm pitch (CON1) [Jaycar HM-3162]
1 18 x 10 x 6mm toroidal core, L8 material (T1) [Jaycar LO1230]
1 1.26m length of 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire (T1)
3 100mm Nylon cable ties
1 25mm length of 16mm heatshrink tubing
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
8 M3 hex nuts
1 15mm length of 0.71mm diameter tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller programmed with 1011119A.HEX (IC1) OR
1011119B.HEX (depending on remote; see errata August 2019)
1 4N25 optocoupler (OPTO1)
1 TSOP4136 infrared receiver (IRD1)
2 SIHB15N60E N-channel Mosfets, 15A 600V (Q1,Q2)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D1)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D2)
1 5.6V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
Capacitors
1 470µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF 275VAC X2-class, 22.5mm pitch
3 100nF 63/100V MKT polyester
1 4.7nF 63/100V MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless otherwise stated)
2 4.7MW Vishay VR37 3.5kV safety resistors [RS Components 484-4400]
1 1.5MW 1W 5%
2 1MW
1 47kW
1 22kW
1 10kW
1 2.2kW
2 470W 1W 5%
2 470W
1 47W
Additional parts for each extra touch plate
1 double-sided PCB coded 10111192, 58.5 x 104mm
1 PCB coded 10111193, 58.5 x 104mm
1 Clipsal CLOPTO1031VXBA C2000-series standard blank plate with blank
aluminium cover
1 CLI449AWE mounting block (optional; see text)
1 4-way terminal strip, 25A 300VAC with 9.5mm pitch (CON1) [Jaycar HM-3162]
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
8 M3 hex nuts
1 15mm length of 0.71mm diameter tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 BC559 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D3)
2 6.8V 1W zener diodes (ZD3,ZD4)
Capacitors
1 47nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless otherwise stated)
2 4.7MW Vishay VR37 3.5kV safety resistors [RS Components 484-4400]
1 2.2MW
1 1MW
1 220W
Additional parts for external switch control
1 Clipsal 30MBPR momentary press switch and matching architrave or standard
single-gang switch plate
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 27
Infrared remote control using the Pulse Distance Protocol (PDP)
Most infrared controllers use a modulation frequency of 36-40kHz, typically 38kHz, where the infrared LED is
switched on and off at this frequency.
This is done in bursts (pulses), with the
length of and space between the bursts
(pauses) indicating which button was
pressed.
The series of bursts and pauses is
usually in a particular format (or protocol) and there are several different protocols commonly used. This includes
the Manchester-encoded RC5 and RC6
protocols originated by Philips. There
is also the Pulse Width Protocol used
by Sony. The handheld remote used in
this project uses Pulse Distance Protocol, originating from NEC.
If you are interested in details on
all these protocols and others, see the
application note AN3053 by Freescale
Semiconductors (formerly Motorola)
at: http://cache.freescale.com/files/
microcontrollers/doc/app_note/
AN3053.pdf
The adjacent diagram (Fig.8) shows
the details of this protocol. This is broken up into four panels.
The top panel shows how binary
bits zero and one are transmitted. They
both start with a 560µs burst modulated at 38kHz. A logic 1 is followed by
a 1690µs pause while a logic 0 has a
shorter 560µs pause.
The second panel shows the structure
of a single transmission. It starts with
a 9ms burst and a 4.5ms pause. This
is then followed by eight address bits,
another eight bits which are the “one’s
complement” of those same eight address bits (the 0s become 1s and the 1s
become 0s). The address bits identify
the equipment being controlled by the
remote (TV, DVD, radio etc).
pedance of the two 470resistors and
the 470nF capacitor which prevents
excessive current from being drawn
from the mains.
The 470resistors also limit the inrush current each time the light switch
is turned on, as the instantaneous applied voltage could be as high as 350V
DC (the typical Active-Neutral voltage
with a 230V mains supply is 325VPK
but in some areas with abnormally
high mains, this could be significantly higher).
If there is no Neutral connection
available in the location where the
28
Silicon Chip
Fig.8: timing details of the PDP infrared remote control protocol. The first panel
shows the timing of logic 0s and 1s (consisting of 38kHz bursts of IR energy). The
second panel shows how these data bits are combined with the start frame and
tail burst to encode a remote control button press. The third panel shows the
repeat signal transmitted when a button is held down and the fourth panel shows
the series of commands which result from pressing and then holding a button.
These are followed by eight command
bits, plus their one’s complement, indicating which function should be activated,
then finally a 560µs “tail” burst to end the
transmission.
Note that the address and command
data is sent with the least significant bit
first.
The complementary address and command bytes are sent as a way of detecting
errors. If the complement data value received is not the complement of the data
received then one or the other has been
incorrectly detected and decoded.
A lack of complementary data suggests
that the received data is not in the PDP
protocol and so the signal is being sent
by a different handheld remote.
After a button is pressed, if it continues to be held down, it will produce
repeat frames. These consist of a 9ms
burst, a 2.25ms pause and a 560µs
burst. This is repeated at 110ms intervals.
The repeat frame is used to inform
the receiver to possibly repeat that particular function, depending on what it is.
For example, “volume up” or “skip
forward” actions may be repeated but
“mute” may not.
Dimmer is installed, the Neutral connection is made via the lamp load.
In this case, power is only available to the circuit when the lamp is
switched off. When the lamp is on, the
voltage across Q1 and Q2 is less than
1V and this is insufficient to develop
the 5V power supply voltage.
Thus, the phase control range needs
to be limited to less than the full mains
cycle when there is no separate Neutral wire.
That way, the lamp is not lit for the
entire cycle, to make sure that there
is still enough power available to run
the rest of the circuit. This means the
maximum lamp brightness is limited
without the Neutral connection.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dimming control
The touch plate is connected to
IC1’s pin 6 via two high-voltage
4.7Mresistors, while the optional
extension board (for a second touch
plate – or more) is connected to pin 7
via a standard 47kresistor.
It is essential to use the resistors nominated (ie, Vishay VR37 series 4.7M).
As well as limiting any current flow to
a person touching the touch plate to besiliconchip.com.au
low about 36µA, these particular resistors give a good safety margin as they
are rated at 2.5kV (AC) each. Two resistors in series increase the voltage rating
to 5kV, giving extra safety.
Trust us; you definitely don’t want
to risk becoming directly connected to
the mains Active conductor – it hurts!
And that applies to anyone else who
will be using the dimmer, not just you.
Usually, the input from the touch
plate at pin 6 is held at 5V (ie, mains
Active potential) by the 1Mpullup resistor but if the touch plate is
touched, the ground capacitance of
the person touching it brings the touch
plate to ground potential when the Active voltage is trending upwards.
This effectively pulls pin 6 down to
supply ground for long enough to IC1
to detect this condition.
The extension input at pin 7 is normally held low by the 10kresistor. It
is pulled high to the 5V supply when
the extension circuit touch plate is
touched. The 47kresistor protects
input pin 7 from transients or incorrect connections.
Note that we need to use a separate
input for extra touch plates. If we merely extended the pin 6 input to another switch plate, the extra capacitance
and pickup from the extra line length
would lead to false triggering on that
high impedance input.
Even if your loungeroom, etc has multiple LED lights on one switch, our trailingedge dimmer will handle them – up to a maximum of 250W. And as most domestic
LED lights are in the order of 8-20W each, that’s an awful lot of LEDs that you can
control.
Infrared remote control
Extension circuit
If fitted, infrared receiver module
IRD1 receives and demodulates the
codes from the handheld infrared remote control. It incorporates an amplifier and automatic gain control plus a
38kHz bandpass filter to accept only
remote control signals. It then detects
and removes the 38kHz carrier. The resulting signal is applied to the pin 4
input of IC1, ready for code detection.
The handheld IR remote is a small
unit measuring only 80 x 40 x 7mm.
It is powered by a CR2025 3V button
cell. It has nine snap action pushbuttons on its front panel. The buttons include a Power on/off (“operate”) button, three buttons labelled A, B and C
buttons and a 5-switch array for up,
down, left, right and a central accept
or OK button.
The 5-button array is commonly
used for volume and channel selectors or forward, reverse, left and right
functions.
There isn’t too much information
about the electronics in the handheld
The circuit of the extension board,
required to add a second (or third…)
touch plate to control the same set
of lights is shown at the bottom of
Fig.2. It is pretty simple as it is only a
means for the extra touch plate(s) to
send a signal to microcontroller IC1
on the main board, which then treats
the event identically to a touch of its
local plate.
While the extension touch plate
is not touched, PNP transistor Q3 is
held off via the 1Mresistor between
its base and emitter. When the touch
plate is touched and the Active voltage is above Earth, Q3’s base is pulled
low via the two safety resistors, diode
D3 and the 2.2Mresistor.
This switches on Q3 and the EXTN
connection is pulled up to the Active
potential, which is also the +5V supply for IC1 on the main board. This
pulls pin 7 (digital input GP0) of IC1
high, sending it a signal that the plate
has been touched.
The 47nF capacitor acts as a filter
siliconchip.com.au
remote except that it uses a 16-pin surface-mount remote control IC, designated HB8101P.
Each time a button is pressed, it
transmits a unique code is by pulsing
an infrared (IR) LED. The infrared signal is sent as 38kHz bursts, using what
is known as Pulse Distance Protocol
(PDP). This protocol is described in
the adjacent panel.
IC1 receives this signal and decodes
it. If the signal is recognised as a valid
code associated with a pushbutton on
the IR remote, the required dimming
function is activated.
Australia’s electronics magazine
and prevents sudden electrical transients (eg, lightning or EMI) from
switching on Q3. This capacitor also
acts to holds Q3 on sufficiently long
enough for detection by IC1 on the
main dimmers, even with a very quick
tap on the plate.
Zener diode ZD3 protects against
excessive voltages at the cathode of
diode D3 when the plate is being
touched, as the potential difference
could be hundreds of volts. Current
is limited to a very low level by the
safety resistors.
Zener diode ZD4 and the
220resistor at the collector of Q3
provides protection if the connections to the main circuit are wired in
reverse. In this case, ZD4 will be forward-biased, protecting Q3, while the
220resistor limits the fault current. A
thinned section on the PCB will fuse if
this connection is made for long. You
would then have to repair it after fixing up the wiring.
You also have the option of using a
momentary contact mains-rate switch
(eg, Clipsal 30MBPR and switch plate)
instead of the extension board, as a secondary dimmer control/light switch.
This just needs to be wired up to connect the Active and Extension (EXTN)
terminals when pressed.
Multiple extension boards can be
wired in parallel, between the A and
EXTN terminals, if you need more than
two dimmer controls.
Coming up next month
In part 2 next month we will have
all the construction and wiring details,
testing and adjustment steps and some
usage tips.
SC
February 2019 29
Review by
Tim Blythman
RIGOL MSO5354
Mixed Signal Oscilloscope
The MSO5000 series is the latest range of mixed-signal oscilloscopes
from Rigol. They were released a few months after the high-end
MSO7000 series. Emona Instruments lent us a top-of-the-range MSO5354
with all options installed for review. The entry-level scope in this series,
the MSO5072, starts at around $1500 and can be upgraded later with
more channels or bandwidth as needed.
T
he MSO5000 series is based around a custom ASIC
(application specific integrated circuit), the Phoenix
Oscilloscope ASIC chipset, which allows for sampling
rates of up to 8GS/s and waveform capture rates of up to
500,000/sec. It also supports enough memory to store one
hundred million samples, although this scope can be upgraded to 200Mpoints of memory.
The large sample capacity of up to 200Mpoints is important since it means that more data is available for analysis
via methods such as FFT (fast Fourier transform) spectral
30
Silicon Chip
analysis. It also allows the user to zoom and pan through a
long period of captured data, while still retaining fine details of the waveform.
The models in the MSO5000 range vary from two channels
with 70MHz bandwidth (MSO5072) all the way up to the
four channel model with 350MHz bandwidth (MSO5354)
that we’re reviewing. Since the MSO5072 can be upgraded
to have the same features as the MSO5354, the internal hardware is essentially the same for all models within the series
and the upgrades simply allow more features to be used.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
While this is useful in that you can choose features according to your available budget and still have the option
to upgrade the difference later, we wonder if it will not be
long until someone succeeds in upgrading their MSO5072
without purchasing the official upgrade option.
If you’re not sure what capabilities you need, you can
simply purchase an MSO5072 and then if you run into a
situation where it isn’t up to the job, upgrade it as needed.
So you aren’t paying for extra capability at the start that
you may or may not need in future.
Additional software options available on all scopes in
the MSO5000 series are up to six serial protocol analysers, twin 25MHz arbitrary waveform generators and power
analysis software. Our sample unit included all these options, which would otherwise need to be purchased separately or as a bundle.
There is a large socket under the sizeable (9-inch,
1024x600 pixel) display which accepts an IDC header, which
is the connection point for the 16-channel digital logic analyser. Utilising these digital inputs requires a separate, optional set of logic analyser cable and probes.
By the way, besides its performance, the large colour display is a good reason to consider purchasing an MSO5000series scope rather than one of its smaller cousins.
First impressions
Features & Specifications
• 9-inch LCD touchscreen display with 1024 x 600 pixel resolution
• 2 or 4 analog channels
• 16 digital channels
(requires optional Active Logic Probe, not included)
• 2 arbitrary waveform generator outputs (25MHz/200MSa/s)
• Communications interfaces: USB Host (GPIB), USB Device
(eg, flash drive), Ethernet, HDM
• Bandwidth: 70MHz, 100MHz, 200MHz or 350MHz*
• Sampling system: 8-bit, 8GSa/s (shared between all channels)
• Sample memory: 100 million points, upgradeable to 200
million points
• Waveform capture rate: 500,000 waveforms per second
• Serial decoders: RS232/UART, I2C, SPI, CAN, LIN, I2S,
FlexRay, MILSTD-155
• Other analysis modes: Histogram, Math x 4, FFT, Digital
Voltmeter, Frequency Counter, Power Analysis
* Depends on model, all upgradeable
And just like many portable devices, gestures such as
pinch, zoom and swipe can be used to scale and shift the
traces in the main display. We found this wasn’t very snappy, and were comfortable with dialling these in via the conventional rotary encoders.
You are not forced to use the touchscreen on this scope
as all functions can be activated using the traditional button-and-knob controls if desired. You can even temporarily
disable the touchscreen function if you want to – an excellent way to keep finger grease off the LCD!
Having some experience using other scopes, we had no
trouble getting a trace on the screen and setting the controls to make it stable. The “Measure” button allowed us
to quickly bring up a display showing such characteristics
as frequency, period and peak-to-peak voltage.
We noticed a bit more fan noise from the unit during operation than we would expect but it isn’t overly loud.
The most striking thing about the scope when you first
see it is that it has a black case. We didn’t mind this in general, except for the fact that the small number of embossed
markings on the features below the screen were less legible than they might have been with a white or beige case.
When turning the unit on, it takes about a minute to boot
into a usable scope screen, which is much longer than we’d
like. There’s a progress bar at the bottom of the screen which
moves smoothly left-to-right but you still have to wait about
15 seconds after it reaches the right-hand end before you
can use the scope.
Once booted, the display is uncluttered, with small onscreen buttons visible above and below the main graticule.
The displays along the top of the screen to the horizon- Useful features
tal timebase and trigger levels are actually active parts of
There are over 40 basic measurements possible on each
a touchscreen, and can be pressed to edit these values di- waveform – Fig.1 shows just those relating to time (rather
rectly.
than voltage or curWe are seeing more
rent).
and more scopes
The best thing about
with touchscreens,
the measurements,
although the ones
though, is that you
we use day-to-day
can select ten different
in the office do not
measurements that can
have touchscreens.
all be displayed simulIt didn’t take long to
taneously along the
get into the habit of
bottom of the screen.
using the on-screen
Compared to the four
controls, if for no
that many older scopes
other reason than
can show, this is a
it is more intuitive
revelation. You idealthan using a rotary
ly want at least eight
encoder to navigate
measurements with a
the various menus.
four-channel scope (eg,
And like most new- On the back of the scope are connections for HDMI, USB-B (to connect to a
frequency and amplier scopes there are computer), Ethernet and a BNC socket marked ‘TRIG OUT’, as well as mains tude for each channel)
many options avail- power. The TRIG OUT socket can generate a pulse on each trigger event or
and having two more
able to navigate.
spare is fantastic.
can signal the results of the pass/fail test.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 31
Fig.1: the Measure button gives access to over 40 trace
measurements that can be displayed (up to ten at a time)
along the bottom of the screen. The Horizontal tab gives
access to time-based measurements, while the Vertical tab
gives voltage measurements such as peak-to-peak, RMS,
average and even overshoot.
Fig.2: the Function Navigation button in the bottomleft corner opens the menu for more advanced analysis
functions and settings including FFT, mathematical
calculations, power analysis and digital signal decoding.
Power analysis and digital signal decoding require an
optional add-on software to be applied to base-level scopes.
Another significant aspect of the measurements on this
scope is that you can choose whether the scope uses the
traces that are visible on-screen to calculate the readings,
or it can use its entire memory. For example, if you are using min/max voltage measurements, you may want it to use
trace data that is not immediately visible.
On that theme of being able to show a lot of useful stuff on
the screen at once, this scope can also display four “math”
traces at once (FOUR!). That’s way better than the single trace
that many other scopes (some very expensive) can show.
There are definitely times in the past when we would have
loved to have that feature.
This scope has a wide range of triggering options, including Edge, Pulse, Slope, Video, Pattern, Duration, Timeout,
Runt, Window, Delay, Setup/Hold, Nth Edge and Serial.
Many other scopes do not have options like Runt (used to
find occasional short pulses) or Window, which triggers
when the trace passes through a rectangle that you can drag
on the touchscreen.
Like most other scopes, this one uses an 8-bit analog-todigital converter (ADC). That does not give quite as good
vertical resolution as a scope with a 10-bit ADC. But one of
the selling points of Rigol scopes is that their front ends are
usually low-noise types, allowing you to still monitor quite
low-level signals without them getting “lost in the noise”.
While we don’t think this scope is quite as good as some
of Rigol’s other scopes in that respect, it does have a 1mV/
div maximum vertical sensitivity which is pretty good, and
the noise level still seems quite low, so it should be quite
good at probing low-level analog signals.
The noise level is around 1.25mV peak-to-peak/250µV
RMS with 20MHz bandwidth limiting, rising to about 2mV
peak-to-peak/400µV RMS with the full 350MHz bandwidth
– see Fig.8.
Regarding serial decoding and triggering, once again the
MSO5000 series is quite generous in allowing you to decode
up to four serial buses at once, while optionally triggering
off one of them (eg, on a value match). You can see an example of serial decoding in Fig.7.
The optional power analysis software is useful for those
working with switchmode power supplies and similar devices. With appropriate probes connected to the right points in
the circuit, it can calculate information such as power quality,
efficiency, power factor, crest factor and do ripple analysis.
Function Navigation button
The scope has a button in the bottom-left corner of the
screen, called the “Function Navigation” button (Fig.2),
which gives access to more options from a simple on-screen
digital voltmeter through to FFTs (Fig.6) and signal decoding. The list includes a pass/fail tool, which can be used to
create tests similar to eye tests.
Fig.3: the web interface
is easy to access via the
scope’s IP address from a
web browser, and provides
control of most of the scope’s
features as well as showing
what’s on the screen.
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Fig.4: the display persistence setting allows signal jitter
to be more clearly seen than on many other scopes. The
amount of shift from the trigger point is visible over many
cycles. It’s also helpful for getting an idea of amplitude
modulation/instability, runt pulses and other phenomena.
Fig.5: one minor disadvantage of the persistence setting is
the tendency to completely obscure other waveforms. In
this case, the cyan waveform is almost completely hidden
where it overlaps. The traces need to be shifted up or down
so they don’t overlap if you are to see all their details.
To use this feature, you set up an envelope; the easiest
way to do so is to input a ‘passing’ signal and allow the
scope to create the envelope around it. The pass/fail tool
can then quickly indicate whether a probed signal is within
expected limits or not.
socket marked ‘TRIG OUT’.
Typically, screen grabs are made by inserting a USB flash
drive into the USB Type-A socket on the front of the unit
and saving the screenshot as a file on the flash drive. While
this is possible on the MSO5354, the aforementioned sockets make other options available.
We found the easiest way to get our scope grabs was to
connect an Ethernet cable. By default, DHCP is enabled and
so the scope is automatically allocated an IP address.
After entering the IP address in our browser, we were
able not just to view the scope screen and save images, but
we could control most of the functions as though we were
touching the touchscreen. Many of the hardware buttons are
mapped to a column of extra buttons on the web page view
of the scope screen (see Fig.3).
Such a setup is great if you have any need to access the
scope remotely for any reason, and although a bit slow at
times, the browser approach provided access to practically
all the scope’s functions. It even supports devices like phones
and tablets – as long as they are on the same network and
have a decent browser, it should work.
It appears the unit can also print to a network printer and
Basic controls
Probe settings are found by simply pressing the corresponding channel button. This lets you select the coupling mode
(AC/DC), bandwidth limit (off/20MHz/100MHz/200MHz)
and probe attenuation, over a wide range of values from
0.01 times to 50000 times.
While the MSO5354 does not have automatic probe sensing, you only really need to change the attenuation setting
when changing probes. If you forget to set the attenuation
and capture some data, you can still change it as the display
adapts automatically to the new settings.
Connectivity
We were curious about the various connections that are
available on the back of the scope. It features HDMI, USB (a
type-B socket) and Ethernet connections, as well as a BNC
Fig.6: we connected an AM loop antenna to the scope’s
input and set it up to run an FFT from 500kHz to 2000kHz,
covering the AM broadcast band. This display was
updating around once per second, and although the peak
at 1.25MHz under the cursor did not appear to correspond
to a broadcast station on an AM radio, the next one to the
left matched well with a strong signal at around 1218kHz.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the serial decoding tool is an optional extra, and
can be applied to any of the four analog inputs or the 16
digital inputs if the Logic Analyser add-on is fitted. Here, a
115.2kHz square wave is being correctly decoded as valid
230,400 baud serial data, as bytes of 0x55 hexadecimal.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 33
We could see how having two separate channels could come
in useful. You may want to use one channel to generate a
clock signal and another to inject a test signal elsewhere in
the circuit, for example.
The AWG in this scope can generate sinewaves up to
25MHz (at 200MSa/s), which is a little bit higher than some
other scopes we have used (they topped out at 20MHz). Of
course, other waveforms like square and triangle cannot be
produced at the full 25MHz as there would be too much
rounding. Square waves up to 15MHz are possible.
The AWG has other nice features such as modulation,
sweep and signal burst options.
Fig.8: feeding a 5mV, 1kHz signal into the scope shows
how it handles low-level signals. Bandwidth limiting was
enabled for this test (20MHz). Some of the noise would be
from the signal source and/or RF pickup in the probe. Also
note the full complement of ten quick measurements along
the bottom of the screen.
send emails with the scope’s screenshots attached, although
we did not have the time to try any of these features.
You can also download and install the dedicated “Ultra
Sigma” application to your PC, which can control the scope
via USB, Ethernet or GPIB. But the web interface is adequate
for many jobs, even if somewhat laggy.
If you need a better display of the scope’s screen, the HDMI
interface would be ideal. It merely needs to be turned on via
the Utility->IO->HDMI menu. The screen resolution used is
1280 x 720, with the 1024 x 600 pixel scope display centred
on the monitor.
Persistence
One feature that we found handy is the persistence setting. This allows previous sweeps of the trace to remain on
the screen for a while. The traces appear to fade slowly, just
as an analog scope raster would. When viewing traces that
are unstable or have jitter, the persistence helps to indicate
the nature of the instabilities.
Many cheaper scopes have persistence but it’s often unusable – a gimmick, essentially. On a scope like this, with a
proper ASIC behind it, it’s an entirely different proposition.
A less capable scope will tend to render traces as a solid
mass of trace colour (more or less). It can be difficult to tell
how the jitter is spread, or how the waveform varies from
cycle to cycle in other ways, such as amplitude variation,
because all traces are pretty much the same intensity.
On the MSO5354, the trace is reinforced in places where
it lands consistently, and appears darker when it lands sporadically in other parts of the graticule (see Fig.4).
While this works well with a single trace, when multiple
traces overlap, they do not undergo any alpha blending, so
that a second trace can be swamped entirely in places by a
faint pass of the first trace (see Fig.5).
Since the second trace would be swamped in such cases on
other scopes, this is a minor complaint, and you can always
separate them if it becomes a major problem. But it would
be a nice refinement to incorporate some alpha blending between different traces.
Waveform generator
One of the features we haven’t seen before on any scope is
the inclusion of a dual arbitrary waveform generator (AWG).
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Quick button
There is a button marked “quick” to the right of the display,
and by default, it is programmed to save a .png screenshot
to an inserted USB flash drive. But it can be programmed for
other jobs such as to reset the measurement statistics, start
recording, or a number of other actions. We find the default
action quite useful as making screen grabs is something we
need to do frequently.
On the bench
The unit has a fold-up handle and fold-down feet. The
handle is firmly recessed, taking a surprising amount of
force to raise. The collapsible feet under the unit allow the
scope to be raked back slightly when sitting on a flat surface.
It doesn’t actually change the angle much, and the feet tend
to fold up (suddenly) if the scope is tilted forward, such as
if you are plugging something into the rear.
Otherwise, the unit is quite compact, if somewhat heavy
for its size. We found the screen pleasant to look at. Although there are settings to adjust trace intensity and graticule brightness, the various other display elements do not
appear to be adjustable.
Conclusion
With digital protocols appearing in more projects, we
would have like to see the Logic Analyser function and serial decoding included, as adding these to the base MSO5072
scope doubles its price. Having said that, users who are mostly working with analog circuitry may not see the benefits.
While there is the opportunity to start with a lower-end unit
and upgrade as needed, the pricing structure does make it
better value to purchase the higher bandwidths from the start.
We found the MSO5354 straightforward to use and found
that it was able to do anything that we would have asked of
it, and would definitely consider it if ever needed to upgrade
one of our existing scopes.
We should mention that we ran into a few user interface
glitches while testing this scope out, eg, times when the
touchscreen would not respond to press but the buttons still
worked. But it is a pre-production unit and Emona warned
us that it would be a bit buggy. They assured us that production models would not have these problems (and maybe the
boot-up time will be faster; surely, one can hope...)
Where from, how much:
Rigol ’scopes are distributed in Australia by Emona Instruments Pty Ltd (www.emona.com.au; tel 1800 632 593).
The top-of-the-range Rigol MSO5354 (as reviewed) retails
for $6452.60 inc. GST; the entry-level model in the range,
the MSO5072 retails for $1479.50 inc. GST
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Using Cheap Asian Electronic Modules Part 22: by Jim Rowe
Three Stepper
Motor Drivers
Want to build your own 3D printer or
CNC machine? You will need multiple
stepper motors to control it, and a way
to drive them. Or maybe you have some
stepper motors from old printers or disc
drives and want to reuse them. Here are
three of the most common stepper motor
driver modules and how to use them.
T
his article assumes you understand the basics of how stepper
motors work. If you want an introduction to this type of motor then read
our primer in the January 2019 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11370).
The first driver module we’re looking at is also the largest, at 60 x 55 x
28mm, including the finned heatsink
for the driver IC. It’s based on the ST
Microelectronics L298N dual H-bridge
driver chip and is currently available
on eBay for less than A$3.80.
The “N” on the end of the chip version signifies that it’s in a 15-pin Multiwatt Power package, intended to be
mounted vertically on a heatsink. ST
Micro also make a similar version
(L298HN) intended to be mounted
horizontally, and a version in a PowerSO20 SMD package (L298P).
Fig.1 shows a simplified block diagram of what’s inside the L298. It has
two full H-bridge drivers (using bipolar power transistors) and so can
drive both stator windings of a standard two-phase bipolar hybrid stepper motor.
Each bridge has an enable input
and two logic control inputs, and both
bridges have their negative supply
connections brought out separately, to
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allow for an external current sensing
resistor (RSA and RSB, shown in red).
The L298 can operate from supply
voltages from 6-46V and can handle up
to 2A per bridge. The inputs are TTL
compatible. This makes it the most
rugged of the driver ICs we’re looking
at here, especially when it’s fitted to
that 23 x 25 x 15mm finned heatsink.
Fig.2 shows the full circuit of the
L298N-based driver module. In addition to the L298N chip itself (IC1),
there’s regulator REG1, which provides a 5V supply for the logic circuitry from the stator supply voltage
Vms, if no separate 5V supply is available. REG1 is enabled simply by leaving the jumper shunt in place on the
“5V_EN” header.
There are also eight MDDM7 fastswitching silicon diodes to ensure that
all four outputs of IC1 are protected
from damage due to back-EMF spikes
from the motor stator windings, at the
end of each current pulse.
The upper diodes prevent the outputs from swinging more positive
than one diode forward voltage drop
above the supply voltage (Vms), while
the lower diodes prevent them from
swinging below ground by more than
one diode forward drop.
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Note that there are no current sensing resistors fitted between the Sensea
(pin 1) and Senseb (pin 15) pins of IC1
and ground. Instead, these pins are
brought out to the two pairs of header
pins (CSA and CSB) at the right-hand
end of the 6x2 pin DIL header, just below IC1 in Fig.2.
This allows you to connect in current sensing resistors if you wish, or
just short both pins to ground (by leaving the jumper shunts in place) if you
do not need current monitoring.
The other four pairs of header pins
(U1-U4) allow you to disconnect the
four 10kW pull-up resistors between
the control inputs of IC1 and +5V. Four
of the five indicator LEDs (LEDs1-4)
show when each of the four logic inputs is high, while the fifth (LED5) is
a 5V power-on indicator.
This module is quite flexible but
it has one significant shortcoming:
it is purely a dual H-bridge stepper
driver, lacking any built-in indexing
controller.
ST Micro make a matching controller chip for use with the L298, called
the L297. This can control the L298 for
full- or half-stepping, wave microstepping and clockwise or anticlockwise
rotation. It can also sense the voltFebruary 2019 35
Fig.1 (right): block diagram of the L298N IC, which is shown as
part of the module above, attached to the heatsink.
ages across the current sensing resistors CSA and CSB, and use PWM to
control and regulate the stator winding currents.
However, the L297 chip costs
around $16 – nearly four times the
price of the L298 module itself.
Instead of using an L297 controller
chip, you can use software running
in your Arduino, Micromite or some
other micro. Developing this can be a
bit of a challenge but it is by no means
impossible.
By the way, the L298N module isn’t
restricted to driving a stepper motor.
It can also be used to drive a pair of
conventional brushed DC motors – one
from each of the two H-bridges.
All you need to do is feed one input of each bridge with a PWM (pulsewidth modulated) pulse stream. You
could drive one input for clockwise
rotation and the other for anticlockwise rotation.
Fig.2: complete circuit diagram of the L298N-based stepper driver module. CSA and CSB can be fitted with two currentsensing resistors if needed, otherwise they can just be shorted to ground.
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DRV8825-based module
The next module is much
smaller and combines a stepper
motor controller and driver, both
within the Texas Instruments
DRV8825 chip. The module measures just 20 x 15 x 16mm, including the stick-on heatsink; and is
currently available from eBay
suppliers for around $2 each.
The DRV8825 chip packs a lot
into a 28-pin SSOP (SMD) package, as you can see from the internal block diagram, Fig.3.
There are two full H-bridge
drivers, labelled MOTOR DRIVER
A and MOTOR DRIVER B. These
use N-channel power Mosfets and
can operate with a supply of 8.245V, with a drive capability of up
to 2.5A (for each channel) at a supply voltage of 24V.
Each driver has provision for
connection of current sensing resistors at the bottom of each bridge
(Isena and Isenb).
The block above the motor drivers
is a charge pump used to develop the
gate drive supply for the upper Mosfets in each bridge.
Then at upper left, there’s a 3.3V regulator, which can provide the current
reference voltages for the two bridges
(AVref and BVref).
The DRV8825 also includes its own
stepper control logic/indexer block,
shown at lower left. This has STEP and
Fig.3: block diagram of the DRV8825 IC.
DIR logic inputs for basic motor control, plus three MODE control inputs
(MODE0, MODE1, MODE2) which determine the stepping mode.
A total of six different stepping
modes are available: Full-stepping,
half-stepping, quarter-stepping and
three different microstepping resolutions (8/16/32 microsteps per full
step).
The microstepping is performed us-
ing PWM current control together
with synthesised sine and cosine
waveforms.
Internal feedback from the Isena
and Isenb pins allows the PWM circuitry to regulate the motor winding currents at the same time. The
chip supports fast, slow or mixed
current decay modes.
The SLEEP input allows the internal circuitry to be shut down for
very low current drain between active motor drive periods. There are
also ENBL and RESET inputs, both
of which have internal pulldowns.
And there’s a FAULT output, which
goes low if the device detects an
over-temperature or over-current
condition.
Fig.4 shows the full circuit of
the DRV8825-based stepper driver
module, and there’s little in it apart
from the DRV8825 chip (IC1).
The 10nF capacitor between pins
CP1 (1) and CP2 (2), and the 100nF
capacitor connected between the
Vcp pin (3) and the motor voltage line
Vma are needed so that the internal
charge pump can develop the high
side gate drive voltage for the two internal H-bridge drivers.
The chip’s Isena and Isenb output
current sensing pins are connected to
ground via 0.1W resistors, to allow the
regulation circuitry to operate. Trimpot VR1, shown at upper left, allows
the maximum current level in each
Fig.4: complete circuit diagram of the DRV8825-based stepper driver/controller module. While this circuit is less complex
than the L298N-based module shown in Fig.2, it doubles as a controller and driver instead of only being a driver.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 37
The DRV8825 (left) and TB6612FNG-based module (right) shown slightly enlarged. Note the stick-on heatsink for the
DRV8825, which would likely be required when driving large stepper motors with windings that pull 1A or more.
motor winding to be set to any desired
level, by setting the voltage at the AVref
and BVref pins.
The DRV8825 data sheet advises
that there is an op-amp with a gain
of five times in the feedback circuit
from the Isena and Isenb pins, so the
relationship between the maximum
motor winding current, the sensing
resistor values and the Vref voltage
(set by VR1) is quite straightforward:
Imax = Vref ÷ (5 × Rsense)
So with the 0.1W sensing resistors
used in this module, the maximum
winding current (Imax) will be equal
to Vref × 2. As a result, VR1 can easily set the maximum current level up
to 2.5A. For example, setting VR1 so
that Vref = 1.0V will give a maximum
winding current of 2A.
As you can see, despite its tiny size,
the DRV8825 has a surprising range
of capabilities, including a very flexible built-in indexing controller to
simplify controlling a stepper motor
from a micro.
TB6612FNG driver module
The third stepper motor driver
module is based on the Toshiba TB6612FNG chip. It’s slightly larger than
the DRV8825-based module, measuring only 20.5 x 20.5 x 11mm, including
headers. Currently, it’s available from
various suppliers on eBay for around
$1.65 in one-off quantities.
Fig.5 shows a simplified block dia-
gram of what’s inside the TB6612FNG,
which comes in a 24-pin SSOP SMD
package. It’s basically a pair of Hbridge drivers, each driven from a control logic block. So in many ways, it’s
rather like the L298N, except that the
H-bridges use LDMOS power transistors rather than bipolar power transistors.
The TB6612FNG is rated to operate at a maximum motor supply voltage (VM) of 15V, and to deliver output currents of up to 1.2A average or
3.2A peak, for each channel. But it
also needs a logic circuit supply voltage (Vcc) of between 2.7V and 5.5V,
and there is no on-chip regulator to
derive this from the motor supply. So
this must be supplied externally.
Fig.5 (left): block diagram of the TB6612FNG driver IC.
Fig.6 (above): complete circuit diagram of the TB6612FNG-based module
which is only a driver module and does not have any control circuitry.
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Note that although the ground connection of each H-bridge is brought
out to a pair of device pins (3 & 4, 9 &
10), these pins are all linked together
inside the device.
You therefore can’t individually
monitor or control bridge currents.
You’d have to use a single resistor,
and it would develop a voltage corresponding to a vector sum of the two
bridge currents.
By the way, like the L298N, the TB6612FNG does not include any indexing/control circuitry ahead of the control logic. So it too needs external indexing hardware or software to drive
a stepper motor.
On the other hand, it’s suitable for
driving a pair of brush-type DC motors, using PWM input signals to control motor speed and the Ain1/Ain2 and
Bin1/Bin2 signals to determine rotation.
Fig.6 shows the actual circuit of the
TB6612FNG based driver module, and
clearly, there is very little in it apart
from the main chip itself (IC1).
There are just three bypass capacitors on the supply lines and two 8-pin
SIL headers (CON1 and CON2) to make
the input and output connections. It
couldn’t be much simpler.
Trying them out
Since the driving schemes of the
L298N and TB6612FNG are quite similar, we’ve decided to concentrate on
demonstrating how to use the L298N
and DRV8825-based modules. And
we’re going to demonstrate driving
one from an Arduino and one from a
Micromite.
You should not have difficulty
adapting our examples to different
combinations of the modules and controllers if it turns out that you’d prefer
to use some other pairing.
First, let’s start by driving the
L298N-based module from an Arduino. While this module lacks its own
indexing controller, the Arduino IDE
comes with a library called “Stepper”
which has functions to perform indexing. That makes hooking up controller chips like the L298N (or the TB6612FNG) quite easy.
Fig.7 shows how we connected the
L298N module to an Arduino Uno and
a typical bipolar stepper motor. The
connections between the Uno and the
module inputs are the defaults for the
Stepper library, so it’s important to follow these carefully.
The stepper motor windings are
each connected to either the MOTOR
A or MOTOR B output terminals,
while the Vms and GND terminals are
connected to the motor power supply.
All the jumper shunts are left in
place on the module.
Also, note that the module’s centre GND pin needs to be connected to
one of the GND pins of the Arduino.
That’s because there is no other connection between the two GNDs, and
the control signals would otherwise
not work correctly.
The Arduino IDE Stepper library
comes with some example sketches
written by Tom Igoe. We adapted one of
these to make it easier for our readers.
It’s called “SCstepper_oneRevolution.
ino”, and you can download it from
the Silicon Chip website. It directs the
stepper motor to rotate in one direction
by a full revolution, then reverse and
rotate back by a full revolution.
The number of steps required for a
full revolution needs to be added to
the sketch before you run it. The correct figure for many motors is 200, so
that is the default.
If you find this sketch interesting,
you’ll find another three sketches in
the “Examples” folder of the Stepper
library folder on your PC (if you have
installed the Arduino IDE). These will
all work with the setup shown in Fig.7,
performing different functions.
Microstepping with
the Micromite
We decided to drive the DRV8825based module from a Micromite
because with its inbuilt indexer,
it’s a little easier to program “from
scratch”.
Fig.8 shows how we connected the
module between the Micromite and a
bipolar stepper. The main STP and DIR
inputs of the module are driven from
pins 10 and 9 of the Micromite, with
the SLP and RST inputs both driven
from pin 16.
Similarly, the ENBL input is driven
from pin 22, while the M0, M1 and M2
mode control inputs are driven from
pins 21, 18 and 17 respectively.
Fig.7: wiring diagram to connect the L298N-based driver module driving a
4-wire bipolar stepper motor with an Arduino or compatible board. Note that
the module’s ground connection needs to be wired to the Arduino’s ground
connection otherwise the control signals would not work properly. The program
is available from the Silicon Chip website.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 39
The three screengrabs of the example microstepping program for the DRV8825 running on a Micromite. From left to right
there is the main menu at power-up, the SET FUNCT sub menu (which determine how the drive pulses should be sent)
and then the SET MODE sub menu (which is used to select the stepping mode).
On the output side, the motor windings are connected to the A1, A2, B1
and B2 pins, while the motor supply
is connected to the Vma (+12V) and
GND pins. The two GND pins are also
connected together, and on to a GND
pin on the Micromite. This is done to
ensure that both the module and the
Micromite have a common ground.
An electrolytic capacitor of at least
100µF must be connected between the
Vma and GND pins of the module, as
shown in Fig.8.
This is to provide a low impedance
reservoir from which the module’s
H-bridges can draw current pulses –
without any impedance from inductance in the power leads.
The USB-UART bridge module at
top centre in Fig.8 is to program the
Micromite from your PC, as well as to
provide the Micromite with 5V DC.
Note that while the DRV8825 module comes with a tiny (9 x 9 x 5mm)
finned heatsink which can be attached
to the top of the DRV8825 chip using
an adhesive patch, it is unnecessary
when driving a small stepper motor
from a 12V supply.
Presumably, it would be required
if the module is driving a reasonably
large stepper motor with windings
drawing over 1A from a 24V supply.
In our test, the winding current was
only about 330mA and even without
the extra heatsink, the DRV8825 became only barely warm. The module
PCB provides copper patches on both
sides under the chip, linked by an array of vias. So it already has a useful
amount of heatsinking.
After studying TI’s datasheet and
application notes, I was able to write
a Micromite program to control a step-
per via the DRV8825 module.
This program is named “DRV8825
stepper driving program.bas” and you
can download it from the Silicon Chip
website.
When loaded onto a Micromite with
LCD BackPack, at power-up it will present you with the main screen with
six touch buttons, shown in Screen 1.
The buttons are labelled SET FUNCT,
SET MODE, < DIR, DIR >, START and
STOP. Pressing SET FUNCT loads the
SELECT FUNCTION screen shown in
Screen 2.
This lets you choose from one of
five functions: SINGLE (send a single
step pulse each time), CONTIN (send a
large number of step pulses), 1/2 REV
(send pulses for a half revolution of the
motor), FULL REV (send pulses for a
full revolution), and FWD-REV (send
pulses for one full revolution in one
Fig.8: wiring diagram for the DRV8825-based driver module connected to a
4-wire bipolar stepper motor and Micromite. The 100µF electrolytic capacitor is
required to provide a low impedance supply for the module’s two H-bridges.
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direction, followed by pulses to make
the motor return in the opposite direction to its original position).
The sixth button on this screen is
labelled RETURN, allowing you to get
back to the main screen without changing the existing selection.
If you press the SET MODE button
on the main screen, you’ll be presented with the SELECT STEPPING MODE
screen shown in Screen 3. This allows
you to select one of the six stepping
modes provided by the DRV8825:
FULL STEP, HALF STEP, 1/4 STEP,
1/8 STEP, 1/16 STEP or 1/32 STEP.
Touching any one of these buttons
selects the desired mode and switches
you back to the main screen.
The two red buttons on the main
screen are used to select the direction of motor rotation. And touching the START button at lower left
should result in the motor performing
the selected function, using steps of
the mode you’ve selected. The STOP
button allows you to stop the motor
at any time.
This program demonstrates a fair
number of possibilities when it comes
to using the Micromite to control a
stepper motor using the DRV8825
module.
Some useful links on each of the
modules are listed below:
www.st.com/en/motor-drivers/l298
www.ti.com/product/DRV8825
siliconchip.com.au/link/aama
Low-cost stepper
motors currently
available
Currently, there are quite a few new
stepper motors available via eBay
and other online sources.
Here’s a sample of those we
found in the standard NEMA sizes,
together with their price range:
NEMA 11: around $11 each
NEMA 17: $12-22 each or five
for $38-69
NEMA 23: around $50 each
There were also many small nonNEMA steppers available at much
lower prices.
For example, a 28BYJ-48 5V unipolar stepper motor bundled with a
ULN2003 driver module was around
SC
$3.22 each.
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February 2019 41
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Making a cheap WiFi-controlled relay board work
I recently ordered a tiny ESP8266
relay switch module from AliExpress.
The vendor said that it comes pre-programmed and I can use an Android
phone app to operate it. But despite
several attempts with several different
Android apps, I couldn’t get it to do
anything! The device connects to my
WiFi router and is allocated an IP address but nothing happens after that.
Utterly frustrated, I decided to write
my own software to program its onboard ESP8266 processor, just so I
could get it to work. My new code
causes the ESP8266 to appear with a
fixed IP address on the local network
and you can then connect to it with any
web browser. On and off buttons appear
which allow you to switch the relay.
I also added a relay status display
and a counter to show how many times
you’ve accessed the control page.
Since the device now has a static IP
address, you can set up port forwarding on your router to allow for external
access to this page (assuming that your
public IP address is static, or you’re using a dynamic DNS service). Be careful though, since nothing is stopping
some random person anywhere in the
world from controlling your relay if
they figure out the IP address and port
combination!
Like the popular ESP-01 board (described in our April 2018 issue; see
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11042),
this board has an 8-pin header and that
allows you to reprogram its onboard
ESP8266 chip with my new software.
You need a few components to reprogram the chip but it’s pretty sim-
42
Silicon Chip
ple. For software, use the Arduino IDE
with the ESP8266 board files loaded.
The supplied .ino sketch file (available for download from siliconchip.
com.au) will open right up in the Arduino IDE. You will need to change the
static IP address to your desired IP address and port (make sure the address
is on the correct subnet and not used
by any other device). You will also
need to set the WiFi SSID and password variables to the correct values
for your network.
Having set all those values, check
that you have selected the ESP-01
board file via the IDE, then verify the
program (CTRL+R) to make sure there
are no errors.
You will need a USB/serial adaptor
such as one based on the ubiquitous
CP2102 for programming. Plug this
into your PC and select it as the active
port in the Arduino IDE.
The breadboard arrangement shown
here is reproduced from the Clayton’s
GPS Time Source article, also from the
April 2018 issue. It shows how to create a programming rig for an ESP-01
board using just a breadboard, some
jumper wires and a couple of resistors.
The only real difference between
the ESP-01 and the ESP8266 relay
module is that the former has a male
4x2 pin header while the latter has a
female 4x2 pin socket. But the pinout
is the same.
You can figure out which pin is pin
1 by probing diagonally opposite pins
with a DMM set to measure volts until you get a reading of +3.3V with the
module powered up. In that case, the
Australia’s electronics magazine
black probe is on pin 1 and the red
probe is on pin 8. You can then proceed
to wire up the module to the breadboard programming adaptor.
As stated on the diagram, to enter
programming mode, hold the blue
wire to ground and then touch the
green wire to ground. While still holding the blue wire to ground, select the
Upload (CTRL+U) option in the Arduino IDE. If all goes well, you will
then see the progress as it uploads the
new code, shown at the bottom of the
IDE window.
When you go to the specified IP address and port you should be presented
with a webpage comprising of an on/
off button. For example, if you chose
192.168.0.100 as the IP address and
8080 as the port, open a web browser
and go to http://192.168.0.100:8080
For those who wish to make this accessible over the internet, an appropriate security mechanism (eg, password control) is left as an exercise to
the reader.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($65)
The relay board
is available online
in a few different
version, including this one above.
siliconchip.com.au
Modular Quiz Buzzer system
This quiz buzzer system is expandable and doesn’t use any microprocessors. You build a single buzzer module
and however many player modules are
required (it has been tested with four).
The modules are connected via a
two-wire bus. Each player has a pushbutton and LED indicator, and the fastest one to press their button blocks all
the others, triggering the piezo buzzer.
The buzzer module provides power to the whole system from a pack of
four AA cells. Switch S1 is the master
power switch. With it on, DC power is
fed to all the player modules via a 390W
resistor and the twin lead daisy chain.
When a player presses pushbutton
switch S2, this causes a voltage to appear at pin 3 of IC2a, an LM358 op
amp that is wired as a comparator. A
1.8V reference voltage is fed to its pin
2 inverting input, generated by LED3.
Assuming the full 6V from the battery
is being fed to that player's module, approximately 2.2V (6V × 39kW ÷ [68kW
+ 39kW]) will appear at its pin 3 noninverting input.
Since the voltage at pin 3 is higher
than the voltage at pin 2, output pin
1 will swing high, triggering SCR1 via
the 1kW gate current-limiting resistor.
SCR1 will therefore latch on, lighting up LED2, which receives around
19mA due to the 220W series currentlimiting resistor.
And since the current to light LED1
siliconchip.com.au
flows from the battery in the buzzer
module, through a 390W resistor, the
voltage across all player modules drops
until diode D1 in the buzzer module
becomes forward-biased. D1 is in series
with the infrared LED inside OPTO1,
giving a total forward voltage of around
1.7V. That results in a supply voltage
for each player module of around 4.3V.
Other players can no longer trigger
their SCR, since if they press their S2,
the voltage at pin 3 of their IC2a will
only be about 1.57V (4.3V × 39kW ÷
[68kW + 39kW]), below the voltage at
pin 2 and therefore the output of IC2a
will not go high. This remains the case
until the buzzer module is switched
off and on again, cutting power to the
latched SCR and resetting the state of
the game.
Since the infrared LED in OPTO1
is forward-biased whenever any of
the player LEDs are lit, current can
flow from its pin 6 to pin 4, powering
Schmitt trigger NAND gates IC1a-IC1d
and also lighting LED1.
Initially, IC1a’s inputs are held low
by the discharged 10µF capacitor and
so its output pin 3 is high. The 10µF
capacitor takes about one second to
charge, then IC1a's output goes low.
During this second that its output
is high, the Schmitt trigger inverter formed by the three other paralleled NAND gates oscillates at around
550Hz, producing a tone from the 8W
Australia’s electronics magazine
speaker. The gates are paralleled to
provide sufficient output current to
drive the 8W speaker via a 100µF DCblocking capacitor.
Since each player module is effectively connected in parallel, you can
connect however many you need.
But note that you may need to reduce
the value of the 390W resistor slightly
if you connect more than four player modules. The minimum possible
value is around 100W. Below that, it
would be possible for multiple players to light their LEDs simultaneously.
The spare half of each op amp in the
player modules is wired up as a voltage follower, to allow the 1.8V reference voltage to be measured without
loading up the reference circuit.
Note that you could wire a normally closed pushbutton switch in series
with S1 to provide a reset button on
the buzzer module, but you would
need to hold it down for several seconds to ensure the whole circuit is reset properly.
This project can be assembled on
your choice of prototyping boards
and housed in small Jiffy boxes. The
buzzer module requires a larger enclosure to fit the speaker and battery. For
the player buttons, use tactile or snapaction contact switches. The player
buttons (S2) and LEDs (LED2) can be
separate parts, or you can use a suitable illuminated pushbutton.
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($65)
February 2019 43
“Crystal set” uses an electret microphone as a detector
A crystal set radio receiver is a fun
first project to get into electronics. One
of the really amazing aspects is that
it needs no power supply; it uses the
power from the received radio waves
to work!
This circuit is a twist on the age-old
design and can be built from commonly available, low-cost parts.
I was intrigued by the Moki-brand
“noise isolation earphones” I saw
for sale in a local supermarket. They
have used 10mm super magnet drivers with 32W impedance coils to give
a very high sensitivity of 118±3dB <at>
1mW and 1kHz.
This is way too sensitive to use with
modern powdered devices but has the
advantage when used in a crystal set
of allowing you to get a decent amount
of sound from a tiny induced voltage.
Traditionally, the earphones used
with crystal sets are high impedance
types, to avoid loading the detector up
too much, which would cause a lot of
distortion.
So I had to come up with a way to
overcome the low impedance in order
to use these earbuds. A transformer
could be used to transform the impedance but it adds cost and complexity,
and would possibly reduce efficiency.
I read an article in QST Magazine
(January 2007) showing how threeterminal zero gate threshold voltage
Mosfets can be used as detectors, with
the source tapped at a lower impedance position on the coil, allowing for
the use of a low-impedance earbud.
Unfortunately, these devices are
relatively expensive. You can see
a discussion of this technique at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaky
More conventional Mosfets and diodes can be used as detectors with
biasing but you need a battery or DC
power supply to provide the bias voltage. Common JFETs and some dualgate Mosfets could potentially be used
as detectors without biasing but the
resulting distortion may still be objectionable and the impedance matching
would not be perfect.
This brought me to the ideal solution, using a low-noise electret microphone element. These are readily
available and cheap, with an internal JFET that is already biased to the
threshold of conduction by the electret membrane and an internal highvalue resistor.
Some electrets have three terminals:
source, drain and the gate which is
connected to the case or shield. Others have two terminals, with the case
soldered to the source electrode. Twoterminal devices can usually be converted to three terminals by cutting
the case-to-source track(s).
I have found the Altronics C0170
three-terminal electret to make an excellent detector, with the case wired
to the top of the coil and thus capacitively coupled to the internal gate, as
shown in the circuit diagram. The gate
capacitance is very low so the full received signal can be applied to it and
loading is minimal.
The source is connected to a low impedance tap on the coil and the drain
to one end of the Moki earphones mentioned above.
The resulting circuit is not particularly microphonic (despite the use of a
microphone in the detector role). The
earphones could potentially be wired
in series, tip to ring, but will then be
out of phase. I cut open and re-wired
my pair to be in phase.
With a long wire antenna connected
to a tap on the coil between the JFET
source tap and Earth, and tuning capacitor in parallel with the coil, sensitivity and selectivity are high. A
good Earth is required for decent performance.
Andrew Russell,
Netherby, SA. ($75)
Editor’s note: you can
still get a more traditional crystal radio
kit from Jaycar (Cat
KV3540) although it
uses a packaged diode rather than a
“cat’s whisker”.
Four-channel sound system using a single woofer
A traditional stereo hifi sound system uses two full-range amplifiers,
driving a pair of speakers, each of
which contains at least two (and possibly three or more) drivers.
The separate drivers are used to reproduce different parts of the frequency spectrum. For example, a two-way
speaker system incorporates a tweeter
to reproduce high frequencies and a
woofer to reproduce low frequencies.
This is necessary because a single
driver usually cannot reproduce the
full range of audible frequencies and
those that can do not usually have a
particularly flat response or low distortion.
44
Silicon Chip
However, there are disadvantages of
the traditional system, such as the difficulty of designing the combination of
drivers, cabinets and crossovers to give
a reasonably flat and low-distortion response, losses in the (usually passive)
crossovers and the fact that a single
amplifier must produce the power for
all the drivers in one cabinet.
This sound system takes a different
approach, where the low frequencies
are reproduced using a single woofer,
akin to a subwoofer; but unlike a subwoofer, it is not limited to very low
(almost sub-audible) frequencies. As
low-frequency sounds have long wavelengths, most of the directional inforAustralia’s electronics magazine
mation our ears pick up come from the
higher frequencies.
This approach won't necessarily
provide the same sound quality as a
true hifi system but it can result in reasonably good sound quality at minimal cost.
The basic idea with this system is
that one big mono bass speaker performs better than two smaller ones.
There is little to be gained from having the bass in stereo.
Also, if all the speakers share the
same box, the bass can modulate the
other drivers, causing extra distortion.
By separating the midrange and treble
from the bass, the left and right speaksiliconchip.com.au
er cabinets can, therefore, be small and
sealed – there are no large cone excursions or low frequencies to handle.
A similar unit can also be used for
a centre channel, to improve speech
intelligibility and directionality in a
home theatre system.
The bass amplifier only needs a
10-250Hz power bandwidth, which
is ideal for a Class-D switching amplifier. You could use the Studio 350
(350W into 4W; January-February
2004; siliconchip.com.au/Series/97)
or the CLASSiC-D (250W into 4W; November-December 2012; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/17).
Three smaller amplifiers can then
be used to drive the left, right and
centre speakers, which can be “bookshelf” speakers. These amplifiers need
a 150Hz-20kHz power bandwidth; a
good choice is the LM3886 50W amplifier module.
Most of the circuit shown overleaf
consists of the op amps and associated components, configured as active
filters, which separate out the various
audio frequencies to feed to the individual amplifiers.
The stereo audio signal is fed into
CON1 and CON2 and then via non-polarised coupling capacitors to op amps
IC3b and IC5b. These act as simple
buffers, to drive the following fourthorder high-pass filters based around
IC4 (left channel) and IC6 (right channel). They have a corner frequencies
of 150Hz.
The signal from these filters passes through individual volume controls (VR2 and VR3) and then into op
amps IC7b and IC9b which provide
two times gain.
These then drive the left and right
channel amplifiers via 150W series resistors (for stability) and 4.7µF nonpolarised coupling capacitors.
The signals from CON1 and CON2
are also mixed using a pair of 47kW resistors to give a mono signal and this
passes to IC3a via a 10µF coupling capacitor, which is the start of the bass
signal chain, and also to IC5a via a
4.7µF coupling capacitor, which is the
centre channel signal chain.
The centre channel filtering is identical to that of the left and right channels and after passing through buffer
IC5a, high-pass filters IC8a and IC8b
and gain stage IC9a, the signal is fed
to another identical power amplifier
to drive the centre speaker.
The bass network starts with a Baxsiliconchip.com.au
andall-style feedback-based volume
control using potentiometer VR1, the
output of which is fed into a fourthorder 10Hz high-pass filter (IC1) and
then into a fourth-order 150Hz lowpass filter (IC2), another gain stage
(IC7a, gain = 3) and then to the bass
output, to be fed to the woofer power
amplifier.
All four outputs are provided with
LM3886 power amplifiers, although
you could omit some of these if external amplifier(s) are being fed from one
or more of the line outputs instead.
The LM3886 is essentially a power op amp, running off ±35V supply
rails derived from a 25-0-25 transformer of at least 100VA (ideally 160VA
or more), a bridge rectifier comprising 1N5404 3A diodes and a pair of
10,000µF filter capacitors.
Each amplifier has its own pair of
100µF bypass capacitors for each rail,
plus some other components as follows.
The 5.6W resistor and 100nF capacitor from each amplifier output to
ground is a Zobel network, necessary
to stabilise the amplifier.
The output inductor and parallel
resistor are also important for stability as they isolate the amplifiers from
any external capacitance. The resistor
Australia’s electronics magazine
reduces the Q of the inductor to eliminate ringing.
The components connected to pin
8 (mute) provide a power-on delay
and gentle power-off behaviour for
dethumping.
The 20kW resistor from pin 3 (output) to pin 9 (inverting input), and
the 1kW resistor from pin 9 to ground
(via a 47µF capacitor) set the gain to
21 times.
The 47µF capacitor reduces the DC
gain to one so that the input offset voltage is not amplified.
The two extra components across
the 20kW feedback resistor create an
extra pole in the loop response, for
additional high-frequency stability.
The 220pF capacitor between inverting input pin 9 and non-inverting input pin 10 provides EMI suppression and reduces bandwidth and
high frequencies to avoid quasi-saturation oscillations of the internal output transistors.
A 10W resistor between the signal
ground and power supply ground improves ripple rejection.
The power supply also incorporates
a smaller 18-0-18 transformer with a
bridge rectifier, filter and regulators
to provide stable ±15V rails for the
op amps. LED1 is connected across
February 2019 45
these supply rails, with a 2.7kW current-limiting resistor, as a power-on
indicator. I recommend LM833s for
ICs3-9, but NE5532s can also be used.
While not shown in this circuit,
46
Silicon Chip
a Loudspeaker Protector should be
used for each channel. We published
suitable designs in the October 2011
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9398) and
November 2015 (siliconchip.com.au/
Australia’s electronics magazine
Article/9398) issues. Both are stereo
so two would be required to protect
all four channels.
John Russull,
Cambodia. ($100)
siliconchip.com.au
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
siliconchip.com.au
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to feature it in Circuit Notebook. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to your
PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online
Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 47
Motion-Triggered
12V Switch
This simple circuit switches on a 12V circuit
when it detects acceleration or vibration. It has
many possible uses but it’s especially handy if you
have an always-on car accessory power socket.
These are becoming quite common but they make it rather difficult
to use a standard dashcam or GPS. This project solves that problem
and it can be built in a couple of hours.
by Nicholas Vinen
T
his solves a problem that
shouldn’t exist – but it does,
and it’s really annoying. While
it has many different potential uses,
I designed it specifically to switch a
dash-mounted video camera (“dashcam”) on automatically when you start
driving the car, then off again when
you stop.
But, you are wondering, don’t dashcams already do that? Aren’t they powered on and off automatically as the
accessory socket switches on and off
with the vehicle ignition?
Of course they are… in most cases.
The problem
But for whatever reason, the accessory power socket (“cigarette lighter”)
in my wife’s car does not switch on and
off with the ignition. Since it’s always
on, after driving, her dashcam runs
until the car’s battery is almost flat,
at which point the accessory power
socket shuts off.
As if that wasn’t annoying enough,
when (if!) you start the car the next
time, it doesn’t come back on automatically.
You have to remember to unplug
and re-plug the dashcam to get it to go
on. Somehow, I doubt we are the only
people with this problem.
Obviously, this is not very satisfactory. I guess the power socket remains
on so you can charge your phone (or
run other accessories) with the ignition off.
But I think this “feature” causes
more problems than it solves.
And while the socket is no doubt
under the control of the body computer, I can’t find any way to set it back
to the old-fashioned scheme – which
worked fine, thank you very much.
There’s no obvious physical or software switch to do so.
Hence, I had to come up with this
project as a way to switch the dashcam
on and off automatically, while drawing very little power when it is off, so
the vehicle’s battery still has a reasonable charge after sitting for a few days.
The solution
The obvious solution was to sense
when the car is running via the battery
It’s a problem that shouldn’t exist . . . but it does if your cigarette lighter socket doesn’t power off when the ignition is off!
48
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Q2 IRF4 9 05
S
CON1
S1
S2
100 µF
LL
ZD1
15V
10M
+
12V
IN
820k
–
E
820k
SC
2019
+
12V
OUT
–
LED1
BC547
ZD1
B
K
CON2
10k
Q1
BC547
LL: LOW LEAKAGE
A
G
A
C
B
100nF
D
K
G
E
C
D
D
S
Fig.1 (left): the circuit diagram for the
version of the circuit which uses a
P-channel Mosfet (Q2). It has the advantage
that the incoming and outgoing ground
connections are continuous – power is
interrupted on the positive side only.
Vibration or motion cause S1 to discharge
the 100uF capacitor, which switches on Q1
and then Q2 and gives a five-minute time
delay before they switch off again if S1 is
not triggered in the meantime.
IRF4905
MOTION SENSING 12V SWITCH (P-CH)
Fig.2 (right): this version of the circuit
uses an N-channel Mosfet for Q2 instead.
If you compare it to Fig.1, you can see
that the changes essentially involve
flipping everything upside-down to deal
with the different gate drive polarity
requirement of this Mosfet. Otherwise, it
works the same, except for the fact that
it breaks the ground connection between
the input and output side to switch the
connected device(s) off.
12V
IN
10k
E
Q1
BC557
B
820k
S2
100 µF
LL
ZD1
15V
10M
12V
OUT
–
A
D
BC557
ZD1
B
K
Q2
IRF540N
G
S
LL: LOW LEAKAGE
A
LED1
K
S1
CON2
+
C
–
SC
siliconchip.com.au
820k
+
2019
voltage. But another “feature” of this
otherwise fine vehicle is that it doesn’t
always charge the battery while running, So I had to find another way.
My next idea was to have an accelerometer that’s monitored by a lowpower microcontroller, waiting for the
vehicle to move before switching on
power to the dashcam.
It could then leave the power on
as long as the vehicle was in motion
(with a timer, so it doesn’t go off when
you’re stationary for a couple of minutes at a time), and switch it off at the
end of the trip.
But I realised that I was over-complicating matters. There is a much
simpler solution – using a vibration
switch.
These small, low-cost devices consist of a spring surrounding a metal
post inside a can. At rest, the spring
doesn’t touch the post but any movement or vibration causes it to come
into contact, closing the switch contacts. Less sensitive versions use stiffer springs.
So it’s just a matter of using that
switch to trigger a separate device to
switch 12V power to the dashcam,
and adding a timer to delay switch-off.
100nF
CON1
E
G
C
D
D
S
IRF540
MOTION SENSING 12V SWITCH (N-CH)
The design presented here uses
just nine (mandatory) components,
plus the accessory plug and socket,
to achieve that. That’s certainly a lot
simpler than the accelerometer-based
solution would have been!
I set the time-out period to about five
minutes. Even in the worst traffic, you
usually are not stationary for that long.
Circuit description
Refer now to the circuit diagram
shown in Fig.1. This uses a P-channel Mosfet as the switch (Q2) so that
it’s the +12V line which is switched.
The heart of the project is one of these
tiny vibration switches, shown with
a $2 coin for a size reference (and
they don’t cost much more than $2
anyway!) On the left is the Soyo SW1801P from Pakronics; on the right is
the CM1800-1 from element14.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The ground connection is unbroken.
This may be important in some cases,
where your dashcam might connect
elsewhere in the vehicle and could
have a separate ground connection to
the chassis.
In that case, switching the negative
end of the power supply wouldn’t do
anything useful.
The 100µF capacitor provides the
five-minute delay, in combination
with the two 820kresistors between
its negative end and ground. Initially,
when power is applied, the 100µF capacitor is discharged. That means that
current flows through it and the upper
820kresistor, to the base of NPN transistor Q1, as it charges.
Q1 therefore switches on, pulling
the gate of Mosfet Q2 low, close to
0V. As a result, Q2’s channel conducts
current from the 12V positive input
to the 12V positive output, powering
the dashcam.
As the 100µF capacitor charges, after about five minutes, the base of Q1
drops below about 0.5V. Q1 then begins to switch off, allowing the gate
of Q2 to be pulled up to +12V by the
10Mresistor, switching Q2 off.
The reason we do not have the caFebruary 2019 49
820k
+
100 µF
S1
CUT HERE
10k
Q2
NOTE: VIEW OF BOTH BOARDS IS FROM
THE TOP (COMPONENT) SIDE, AS WE NORMALLY
SHOW WITH PCB LAYOUTS. THE COPPER STRIPS
ARE ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOARD,
AS IF YOU WERE LOOKING THROUGH
THE BOARD WITH X-RAY VISION.
100 µF
12V
IN
LED1
+
820k
820k
CUT HERE
CUT HERE
S1
Q1 100nF
Q2
10k
12V
OUT
10M
ZD1
12V
IN
LED1
Q1 820k
10M
ZD1
100nF
12V
OUT
Fig.3: use this diagram as a guide to building the P-channel
version of the circuit on a piece of stripboard. Note
carefully the two locations where the tracks are broken,
with a knife or drill. Watch out to avoid the possibility of
component leads or exposed metal tabs shorting to each
other if the components are moved slightly.
Fig.4: this is the stripboard layout for the N-channel
version of the circuit. As with the circuit diagram, this is
basically just a flipped version of Fig.3 to compensate for
the difference in behaviour between an N-channel and
P-channel Mosfet.
pacitor directly on the gate of Q2 is that that would cause
Q2 to switch off slowly, over about 30 seconds, due to the
slow charging rate of that capacitor. During this time, the
Mosfet would be in partial conduction and so it would have
a high dissipation, heating up and possibly burning out.
Since Q1 is a bipolar junction transistor, and its load impedance is so high, it only takes a few millivolts of change
in its base voltage to go from fully on to fully off. That, in
turn, allows Q2 to switch off fast, typically spending less
than one second in partial conduction, so it doesn’t heat
up too much during switch-off.
The 100µF capacitor needs to be a low leakage type due to
the high charging impedance of 820k+ 820k= 1.64M.
Otherwise, it will never fully charge and so Q2 may never
switch off. Alternatively you can use two 47µF tantalum
capacitors in parallel (as we did on our prototype) although
a low-leakage electrolytic will probably be cheaper.
ZD1 protects the gate of Q2 from excessive voltages,
which may be due to power supply spikes in the system.
It clamps the gate to around +16V and -1V, well within its
±20V rating.
The current through ZD1 is limited by the relatively high
base impedance of Q1. The maximum base current with a
14.4V supply is (14.4V – 0.5V) ÷ 820k = 17µA. The highest beta for a BC547 is around 800 at 2mA but it’s less than
half that at very low currents, so the maximum figure is
around 400. That translates into a collector current of no
more than 17µA x 400 = 6.8mA.
That’s more than enough current to pull the gate of Q2
to 0V but low enough that neither Q1 nor ZD1 will be
damaged if the supply voltage is high enough for ZD1 to
conduct. Even if the supply voltage is considerably higher
(which it would need to be, for ZD1 to conduct), nothing
is going to burn out.
The 100nF capacitor between the base and emitter of Q1
is important since the supply voltage in a vehicle can vary
a great deal, from around 10V when cranking up to around
14.4V when the battery is being charged. And there can
also be a great deal of noise and some significant voltage
spikes on the supply line.
This 100nF capacitor prevents supply spikes from causing Q1 to switch off briefly, which would cut power to the
dashcam.
Optional components
Pushbutton switch S2 is shown wired across the vibration switch, as a manual means of forcing the unit to switch
on. But you will notice that we have left it out of our PCB
designs. That’s because merely bumping the PCB is enough
to switch the unit on; so it would probably come on even
before you could press S2. So while it makes sense in theory, in practice, you don’t need it.
LED1 and its 10kcurrent-limiting resistor are wired
across the output so you can easily see if the unit’s output
is switched on. This only adds about 1mA to the current
consumption when the unit is on. It’s handy for debugging and testing, but you don’t need it, so you could leave
it off your version.
By the way, the circuit draws almost no power when off
– basically just the leakage current of the 100µF capacitor,
which is usually around 1µA. So it will not affect your vehicle’s battery life.
The vehicle itself will typically draw around 10mA,
plus another 10mA or so of battery self-discharge, for a total of around 20mA which is 20,000 times more than this
circuit draws.
Alternative versions
Fig.2 shows how you can build the circuit using an Nchannel Mosfet instead of a P-channel Mosfet. Essentially,
everything is inverted. Q1 changes from an NPN transistor
to a PNP transistor. All the other parts are the same, just
connected differently.
You might want to build this version just because it’s
12V
IN
820k
47F
47
F 47F
47 F
10M
SAIA
SW-18010P
S1
This photo is taken from the opposite side of the stripboard
than the diagram above (ie, output on left and input on
right) to more clearly show the smaller components which
could be otherwise hidden.
50
Silicon Chip
Q2
ZD1 Q1
10k
LED1 12V
K
OUT
820k
100nF
Fig.5: the PCB overlay for the SMD version of Fig.1, the
P-channel version of the circuit. It is slightly taller but it
is narrower and much thinner, so it should give a more
compact result. Mosfet Q2 is in an 8-pin SOIC package which
is easy to solder, as are all the other components. Note the
two 47µµF capacitors connected in parallel, which are used
instead of a single 100µµF capacitor which would be larger.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
easier and cheaper to get a high-current N-channel Mosfet.
You may even have one lying around somewhere.
But keep in mind that it interrupts the negative power
connection, rather than the positive connection, meaning
you can only really use it to switch devices which do not
connect to any other powered devices (unless they get their
power from the same socket).
As there are so few components in this circuit, I built
mine on stripboard (or “Veroboard”) and you could do
the same. The stripboard component layouts are shown
in Figs.3 and 4.
SMD PCB version
However, many people don’t like stripboard (to be honest, I’m normally one of them!), so I also designed a small
PCB for the P-channel version only.
This uses SMD parts (see Fig.5) so has the advantage of
being much shorter and thinner, at just 25 x 20 x 5mm. It’s
therefore suitable for encapsulation in a smaller (~16mm
diameter) piece of heatshrink tubing, making it easy to
tuck away.
The only through-hole part used is the vibration sensor
itself, S1. This is laid on its side and held down to the board
using a couple of wire straps to keep everything nice and
rigid, minimising the overall size of the module.
The only difference in the circuit is that we’ve used two
parallel 47µF 16V SMD ceramic capacitors rather than a
single 100µF electrolytic, as 100µF 16V SMD capacitors
tend to be larger and more expensive. In addition to being
compact, ceramic capacitors are very reliable and heattolerant compared to electrolytics.
We won’t go into any great details regarding the assembly of the SMD version, although we have an alternative
SMD parts list at right.
If you want to build this version, you can purchase the
short form kit (which includes the PCB and all on-board
parts) from our online shop (Cat SC4851). Solder them in
place where shown in Fig.5.
Construction
One critical aspect of construction is to note that one
of the leads of the vibration sensor may be extremely thin
and easy to break.
It depends on exactly which sensor you use; we used a
very common type (SW-18010P) and managed to break one
lead while testing it. Interestingly, the other lead is really
thick and presumably intended to allow it to be rigidly
mounted to the board.
The layout for the P-channel version that I built is
shown in Fig.3, with the layout for the N-channel version
in Fig.4. As with the circuits, they are almost a mirror-image of each other.
Both designs require tracks to be cut in two places; the
cuts are shown on either side of Q2. Look closely at Fig.3
and Fig.4; the breaks are shown but they are visually subtle. You can make these cuts with a sharp knife but make
sure you remove a fair bit of copper so they can’t accidentally come in contact.
Some people prefer to use a ~4mm drill turned by hand
but it needs to be sharp or it will not cut the copper. It
probably wouldn’t hurt if you actually drilled through the
board but might weaken it slightly.
Having made the two track cuts, fit the components.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list –
12V movement/vibration switch
P-channel version on strip board
1 piece of stripboard/Veroboard, five strips x 14 holes
1 Soyo SW-18010P vibration sensor, or similar (S1)
1 car accessory power extension cable, length to suit
(cut in half to get cables with plug and socket on ends)
short lengths of various diameter heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 IRF4905 P-channel Mosfet or equivalent (Q2)
1 blue 3mm LED (LED1
1 15V 0.4W or 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V/25V low-leakage electrolytic or
2 47µF 16V tantalum
1 100nF ceramic
Resistors (all 0.25W, 1% or 5%)
1 10M (brown black green brown or brown black black yellow brown)
2 820k (grey red yellow brown or grey red black range brown)
1 10k (brown black orange brown or brown black black red brown)
Parts substitutions for N-channel version
1 BC557 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 IRF540N N-channel Mosfet or equivalent (Q2)
Parts for SMD version on PCB*
1 double-sided PCB, coded 05102191, 25.4 x 19.5mm
1 Soyo SW-18010P vibration sensor, or similar (S1)
1 car accessory power extension cable
Semiconductors
1 AO4421 P-channel Mosfet or equivalent, SOIC-8 (Q1)
1 BC847 NPN transistor, SOT-32 (Q2)
1 blue 3216/1206 LED (LED1)
1 15V 0.25W zener diode, SOT-23 (ZD1)
Capacitors
2 47µF 16V X5R ceramic, SMD 3226/1210 package
1 100nF 50V X7R ceramic, SMD 3216/1206 package
Resistors (all SMD 3216/1206 package, 1%)
1 10M
2 820k
1 10k
*Where to get the SMD short-form kit:
(Includes PCB and all on-board parts): Cat SC4851 from the
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP (siliconchip.com.au/shop)
Where to get the vibration sensor:
The SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP stocks the SW-18010P for $1
each (Cat SC4852). Our standard $10 p&p charge per order
applies – it pays to order several things at once!
Pakronics (www.pakronics.com.au) have two Vibration
Sensors in stock: the recommended Soyo SW-1801 P (Cat
ADA1766), described as “easy to trigger”, plus a “hard to
trigger (ie, less sensitive) Cat ADA 1767. Both are priced at
$3.36 plus GST and freight.
Alternatively, element14 (au.element14.com) has a range
of slightly different “Comus” vibration switches (Cat
607253 and 540626) which could also be used in this
project. Both are priced at $4.06 plus GST and freight.
(These sensors are the ones in the photo on page 49 – the Soyo
SW-18010P on the left and the Comus [element14] on the right.)
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 51
The axial components (reshould go out and the voltsistors and zener diodes) are
age across the safety resistor
all mounted with their leads
should drop to no more than
0.2” or 5.08mm apart, so they
a few millivolts.
will need to have their leads
When LED1 goes out, give
bent so that they sit on the
the board a tap. The LED
board in a semi-vertical poshould switch back on. If it
sition.
does, everything looks good.
You have a choice of which
If LED1 doesn’t go out, or
side to place the component Unfortunately we didn’t have any clear heatshrink large
it doesn’t go back one when
body; try to orientate them enough – so red had to do! If there is any danger of any
you tap the board, check it
to avoid the possibility of component being shorted (remember there’s lots of movement carefully for short circuits.
component leads shorting to- under a dashboard) we’d also be inclined to crimp the edges It’s easy to accidentally short
of the heatshrink together before shrinking it.
gether.
adjacent tracks on stripboard.
Make sure that the cathode stripe of ZD1 faces in the It could also be due to a leaky electrolytic capacitor.
correct direction, as shown in Fig.3 and Fig.4.
Use a DMM set to measure ohms and probe adjacent
The radial components (electrolytic capacitor, sensor, tracks. If you get a reading lower than 10W, chances are
LED) have their leads soldered to adjacent tracks, 0.1” or you have a short circuit.
2.54mm apart, and this should be the natural pin spacing
Also check your component placement and orientation,
of these parts, making it easy.
using Fig.3 or Fig.4 as a reference.
Watch the orientation of the electrolytic capacitor; its
If it’s working, remove the safety resistor and power the
positive lead is longer and should be located where shown circuit directly from 12V. Measure the voltage at the socket.
with the + symbol in Fig.3 or Fig.4.
You should get a reading of +12V with the red probe touchSimilarly, you will probably not need to bend the leads ing the small contact area inside the base of the socket and
of Q1 or Q2 as they will likely already have the requisite the black probe on the inner metal surround.
0.1-inch spacing. Watch the orientation of both parts.
You can then try plugging a vehicle accessory such as
The orientation of the vibration sensor doesn’t matter dashcam or GPS into the socket and check that it powers
since it just acts as a switch.
up correctly.
Wiring it up
Finishing it off
With all the components on the board, now you just need
to wire up the plug and socket.
Rather than purchase a vehicle accessory (cigarette lighter) plug and socket separately, I bought a Jaycar Cat PP2006
“cigarette lighter double adaptor”.
I then simply opened up the plug (undoing one screw
and unscrewing the tip), removed the contacts, de-soldered
the wires and pulled them through the strain-relief boot.
That gave me two pre-wired sockets plus a plug, which I
put aside since I already had a pre-wired accessory plug
(Jaycar Cat PP1995).
The PP1995 plug wires went straight into the stripboard
holes and I soldered them to the tracks, although I found
I had to add some flux paste as I had difficulty getting
the wires to take solder. I had to drill the board holes for
the socket wires out to 1.5mm so after pushing the wires
through the holes, I bent them over to come in contact with
the copper strips and soldered them in place.
Assuming all is well, disconnect everything and add
some heatshrink insulation. It’s a good idea to slip some
tubing over the TO-220 package and shrink it down to ensure it can’t short against any adjacent components. Do the
same with any other components you think could short if
they move or are bent.
Then slide larger diameter clear heatshrink tubing over
the cigarette lighter plug and onto the board and shrink it
down, so it can’t short against any exposed metal that may
be in the vehicle, or loose items like keys.
Installing it in the vehicle is simple. Just plug it into
the accessory socket, plug in your dashcam, GPS or whatever, then find somewhere to tuck the circuit board away.
It would be a good idea (at least initially) to put it somewhere where you can observe LED1, ideally from outside
the vehicle, through a window.
Leave it for 5-10 minutes, somewhere where the vehicle is not going to be rocked by vehicles passing at high
speeds, trucks, etc.
Then check to see if LED1 has gone out. If it has, open the
door and get in. The motion from doing so will probably
trigger the unit and switch LED1 back on. Otherwise, give
the board a little nudge and check that it switches back on.
You may find the unit is too sensitive, eg, passing traffic
often triggers it. In this case, you have two main options. The
easiest is to add some cushioning around it like foam, to reduce the amount of movement and vibration transferred to
it, reducing its sensitivity. You will need to experiment with
the type and thickness of material to achieve a good result.
If that’s no good, you will have to remove the vibration
sensor and fit a less sensitive version.
But we’ve found that they are usually too insensitive so
SC
you’re better off with the foam.
Testing
Ideally, testing should be done with a current-limited 12V
DC supply in case there is a short circuit on the board, or
one component has been installed incorrectly.
This can easily be achieved by connecting a 1005W or
2201W resistor in series with the supply. You can monitor the voltage across this resistor to get an idea of the circuit’s current draw.
You can connect the supply to the cigarette lighter plug
using a couple of alligator clip leads.
LED1 should light up immediately and you should get
a reading of around 0.1-0.2V across the resistor due to the
1mA used to light it. If you leave board alone for about
five minutes, being careful not to touch or bump it, LED1
52
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Arduino® stackable header
Build a stackable shield, or make your
current shield stackable. Includes:
1 × 10-pin, 2 × 8-pin, 1 × 6-pin,
1 × 2x3-pin (for ICSP). HM3208
ONLY
550
$
ea.
Hook-up cables
Quality 13 × 0.12 tinned hookup wire on plastic spools. 8
different colours available. 25
metre roll. WH3000-WH3007
ISP
programmer
for AVR
Unbrick, install or update your Arduino®compatible boards. XC4627
See how to use the XC4627 with Arduino®
boards and ZZ8727 on our project page:
www.jaycar.com.au/isp-programming
ONLY
1995
$
ONLY
19
$
95
CCTV video
& power cable
Combined power and video.18m.
BNC terminated. WQ7279
FROM
21
$
95
Alarm cables
30m. Sold per roll.
4 Core
WB1591 $21.95
6 Core ACA Approved WB1596 $44.95
JUST
1295
$
ATMega 328P IC
Heatshrink pack
Contains 160 lengths of different sizes
in a handy storage case. WH5524
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
Build your very own customised
Arduino® compatible projects. Comes
with Uno bootloader and 16MHz
crystal oscillator. ZZ8727
on sale 24.1.19 - 23.2.19
55
your destination for
in-home technology solutions
NOW
149
$
NOW
3495
$
SAVE $20
Have your files backed up. Tool less & driverless.
Supports 2.5” and 3.5” HDD.
• Raid 0, Raid 1, JBOD, Spanning
• Up to 5Gbps transfre rate
• Capacity: 8TB Per Bay
• 215(L) × 135(W) × 114(H)mm
XC4688 WAS $169
44
$
95
9995
$
2.5” 1TB notebook HDD
USB 2.0 external 3.5" HDD case
XC4687
FROM
ONLY
SAVE $10
2 bay USB 3.0
SATA HDD RAID enclosure
Accommodates a 3.5” SATA drive up to 3TB in
storage capacity. Lightweight aluminium case for
increased portability.
• USB 2.0 transfer rate up to 480Mbps.
• 183(D) × 117(W) × 31(H)mm
XC4669 WAS $44.95
NOW
3995
$
ONLY
1995
$
SAVE $5
USB 3.0 SATA HDD docking stations
Connect 2.5” or 3.5” SATA hard drives to your computer.
Plug and play technology. USB 3.0 for fast data transfer.
• Transfer Rate: 430Mbps
• HDD capacity: 8TB
Single XC4687 $44.95
Dual XC4689 $59.95
Ideal for laptops, network attached stored
devices, game consoles or media players. Uses
the superior 500GB per platter technology.
69(W) × 9(H) × 100 (D)mm. XC5680
ALSO AVAILABLE:
3.5" 2TB Surveillance HDD XC5682 $159
SATA/IDE to USB 2.0 HDD adaptor
IDE to SATA HDD upgrade panel
JUST
ONLY
4 door RFID access controller
RFID access card reader
JUST
JUST
Backup or transfer large amounts of data between
drives. Supports up to 3 hard drives simultaneously.
• 85(L) × 65(W) × 20(D)mm
XC4150 WAS $44.95
A simple method for upgrading IDE drives.
• 105(W) × 259H) × 62(D)mm
XC4970
See our keyfob, wafer card & lanyard card
style tags available in-store or online:
www.jaycar.com.au
299
8995
$
• WATERPROOF
$
Control up to 4 doors, 4 readers and 4 exit buttons.
Perfect for large or small businesses with up to
20,000 users and permanent entry logging up to
100,000 times.12VDC.
• 201(L) × 125(W) × 32(H)mm
LA5359
• BACKLIT KEYPAD
• LED INDICATOR
Green/Yellow/Red
• BUILT-IN BUZZER
A robust mini access card reader which can be
used as standalone or slave with an Wiegand
26 input access control system. Reads EM &
HID RFID cards. Large capacity for up to 10,000
users. 12VDC, IP65 rated.
• 48(W) × 103(H) × 23(D)mm
LA5351
NOW
109
$
19
SAVE $20
$
Digital keypad
with RFID access control
Suitable for areas requiring stricter access control
such as warehouse, bank, etc. Housed in a sturdy
IP65 vandal proof zinc alloy case. Support up to
2,000 users. Indoor/outdoor mounting.
• 82(W) × 128(H) × 28(D)mm
LA5353 WAS $129
995
95
$
RFID read and write kit
RFID lock shield kit
Allows you to both read and write MiFareType RFID cards. Includes one credit-card
style tag and one key-fob style tag.
• 3.3VDC operating voltage
XC4506
Allows your Arduino® to control a door
lock using an electric strike plate and
one commonly available RFID module.
*
Limited stock.
XC4215
telephone & network connectors
ONLY
4
$
95
RJ45 inline joiner
RJ45 8P/8C socket to socket.
Wired straight through. YT6080
56
ONLY
5
$
95
US modular inline
coupler - 6P/4C
Connects two US plugs together.
RJ12. Socket to Socket. YT6060
ONLY
5
$
95
Modular double
adaptor - RJ12
Connect two telephones to the
one socket. 6P/4C. YT6056
Buy online & collect in store
ONLY
7
$
95
Wall phone
bracket
RJ12 6P/4C.
ACMA approved. YT6062
FROM
995
$
Extension cables
RJ12 6P/6C. Plug to plug.
1 to 15m lengths available.
YT6033 - YT6038
make
your home
connected:
Did you know that you can make your own smart home controller to
control your garage door, air conditioner, room lights, or monitor your
garden soil moisture using the low cost yet very powerful Wi-Fi enabled
ESP32 or ESP8266 development boards! Why not integrate your smart
home devices with free cloud services from Google Home®, Amazon
Alexa® or IFTTT® to Make Your Home Connected.
What is special about a Connected Home? … Well imagine when you turn
on the TV after 6:00pm, your smart connected home knows to also turn
down the room lights, and if the room temperature is below 15°C, to also
turn on the aircon to set the temperature to a comfortable 23°C, just the
way you like it. This is only one scenario of the many possibilities and life
comforts in a connected home.
ONLY
ONLY
2495
3995
$
Wi-fi mini
ESP8266
main
board
Offers a massive 4MB program memory, and
ESP32
main board
with wi-fi and Bluetooth
®
6
42
JUST
4
95
XC
4
$
Infrared transmitter module
Connect the IR Transmitter to your ESP8266
or ESP32 to control IR appliances such as
your TV, stereo system, or aircon, etc., Setup your device to talk to Alexa or Google
Home and you can control your appliances
via voice control or over the Internet.
XC4426
ONLY
02
XC
3
$
433MHz radio control is widely used in garage door, gates,
and other mains appliance control. Connect this module to an
ESP8266 or ESP32 development board and you can make cleaver
433MHz controllers. Set-up your device to talk to Alexa or Google
Home and you can control your home appliances via voice
control or over the Internet. ZW3100
49
$
95
55
Use the 433MHz transmitter together with an ESP32 or
ESP8266 microcontroller to control the relay module.
Open and close your garage door, turn on your water
pump, or anything else in your connected home using
this versatile and easy to build solution.
2 Channel LR8855 $49.95
4 Channel LR8857 $69.95
access control
ONLY
Smart wi-fi LED bulbs
YN8448
Control almost any appliance that use IR remote
control. It replaces the appliance’s remote control
and allows you to control your appliance via a Wi-Fi
smart App. Integrate the Wi-Fi Smart remote with
your connected home and you can do much more.
AR1974
FROM
LR88
Remote control relay boards
lighting
YN8450
95
Wi-Fi smart remote
4995
95
433MHz wireless transmitter
39
$
Connect to anything and everything: Wi-Fi
and Bluetooth with the ESP32 dual core 32bit
microcontroller. Offering 512kB of RAM, 4MB of
flash memory, 12bit ADC, 8 bit DAC, I2S, I2C, touch
sensor and SPI. Easy to program using the popular
Arduino IDE. This is the next step in advanced DIY
connected home automation. XC3800
FROM
13
$
infrared
ONLY
0
XC3
8
an 80MHz 32bit processor. Built in Wi-Fi 802.11
n/b/g, I2C, Serial UART, 11 GPIO, and an analogue
input. Easy to program using the popular Arduino
IDE. The perfect platform for your DIY connected
smart home devices. XC3802
80
$
Connect to your Wi-Fi and allow you to control the light,
on/off and dimmable from the comfort of your chair or
bed, using a smartphone APP, or integrate it into your
connected home and ask Alexa or Google Home to turn
your lights on or off.
Dimmable 600 Lumen YN8452 $49.95
Tuneable White
YN8450 $69.95
Colour Change
YN8448 $99.95
249
$
Wi-Fi RFID
access keypad
Forgot your keys no
problem! With this smart
access controller, you can
remotely open your door
with your smartphone. It can be
used as a standalone access card reader or
in a connected home, it can be controlled by an
external access controller. LA5358
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
on sale 24.1.19 - 23.2.19
57
your destination for
your workbench essentials
5995
$
3
SAVE $20
7495
$
129
SAVE $30
1
2995
• Boasts a maximum power
output of 2.4A per port
• Includes 6 dividers and
12VDC, 4A power supply
• 165(L) × 120(W) × 62(H)mm
WC7766 WAS $69.95
$
1295
5495
NOW
895
$
SAVE $10
4P/6P/8P/10P
Modular Crimp Tool
Cut, strip, and crimp flat
telephone or Cat5E
type cable. TH1936
WAS $49.95
NOW
5995
$
SAVE $10
SAVE $5
Network cable tracer
Easily trace cables even when cables are in a bundle or
hidden in punchdown blocks or wall plates. Also checks
telephone line polarity and status i.e ring/busy/idle.
• Single/multi tone signal
XC5083 WAS $99.95
Handy magnet strip
Attached to walls, tables or other surfaces to hold tools,
brushes, scissors, etc. 9 piece magnet, each holds up to 1kg.
• 750(L) × 25(W)mm
*
Tools not included
LM1624 WAS $19.95
YX2517
YX2580
FROM
6
$
95
• LONG LIFE
• LOW NOISE
FROM
FROM
24
$
95
3695
$
Plastic fan guards
MagLev bearing case fans
Ball bearing fans
FROM
FROM
ONLY
Foam filter prevents dust particles
entering the fan.
• Made from plastic rated to UL 94V- 0
60mm YX2550 $6.95
80mm YX2552 $6.95
120mm YX2554 $7.95
/m
Telephone cables
Flat cable. Ivory colour.
• ACA approved.
• Sold per metre or 100m roll
2 Pair (4-Wire) WB1620 70¢/m
3 Pair (6-Wire) WB1622 90¢/m
1
$ 90
/m
Computer cables
All are shielded to stop RFI.
• Sold per metre or 100m roll
6-Way WB1575 $1.90/m
9-Way WB1578 $2.20/m
Buy online & collect in store
240VAC. Solder lug connection.
80mm Flylead
YX2508 $36.95
120mm Solder Lugs YX2517 $36.95
150mm Flylead
YX2520 $84.95
1
$ 45
/m
Cat 5 solid network cables
ACA approved. High quality.
• Sold per metre or 100m roll
8-Core Stranded WB2020
Solid Core
WB2022
WB2020
70
¢
Nanoflux bearings. 100,000hrs
operational life at 40°C (even longer
at 25°C). Dust and waterproof to IP54.
Flylead with 3 pin molex. 12VDC.
80mm YX2580 $24.95
90mm YX2582 $29.95
120mm YX2584 $34.95
WB1575
Combination crimper tool
and a cable tester in one unit.
Tests both UTP and STP cable.
• Single and multi-wired
cable crimping
• Detachable cable tester
TH1939 WAS $69.95
• Nintendo & X-Box security bits
• X-Box opening tool
• Stainless tweezers
• Ratchet handle and adaptor
TD2109
$
WB1620
4P/6P/8P modular
crimp tool with
network/POE tester
6. Gaming console
tool kit
1495
95
SAVE $20
Strip wire up to 5-6mm, and doubles
as a punch-down tool for 110/88-type
terminals with blade. TH1738
3995
• Holds small metal screws, nuts
and bolts.
• 254(L) × 203(W)mm
TH1867
NOW
79
$
ONLY
$
5. Magnetic project
work mat
SAVE $15
handy tools for
network installers
NOW
• VESA compliant
• Fits most 13” to 27” flat-screen
displays
• Metal frame with scratchresistant, powder-coat finish
CW2875 WAS $79.95
$
5
Cat-5 punch-down tool
3. Dual PC monitor
desk bracket
2
$
• Measure AC & DC voltages up
to 600V.
• CATIII, 2000 count
• AC/DC current up to 200mA
• Resistance measurement
XC5078 WAS $84.95
2. USB charging station 5 port
6
4
4. 2 in 1 network
cable tester and DMM
• 300W 600VA
• Surge protection
• 7Ah battery
• USB port
• Mains powered
MP5224 WAS $159
$
SAVE $10
58
1. Uninterruptible power
supply with computer
interface
nerd perks club members
exclusive club offers
WE HAVE SPECIAL OFFERS FOR OUR
CLUB MEMBERS EVERY MONTH.
LOOK OUT FOR THESE DEALS IN-STORE!
Not a member? Visit www.jaycar.com.au/nerdperks
ONLY
ONLY
79
$
99
95
Door
entry alert
Commercial grade, entry warning system!
LA5193
Counter
LA5197 REG $49.95
Door Buzzer
LA5188 REG $34.95
*Applies to LA5197 & LA5188
with purchase of LA5193
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
30%
OFF
ACCESSORIES*
NOW
179
$
$
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
UHF premium
antenna
kit
Includes stainless spring & elevated
10 Port PoE
network
switch
Connects up to 8 Power Over Ethernet (PoE)
20%
50
$
feed base, 6.5db & 3dB factory tuned
antennas, 5m RG58 lead with FME socket
and PL259 adaptor. DC3071 REG $129
IP cameras, routers & access points.
YN8049 REG $229
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
Weatherproof buzzer
RJ45 modular plugs
200gm duratech solder
Multi-function
circuit tester
20%
Heavy duty. 6-14VDC. 26mm dia.
AB3466 REG $16.95 CLUB $12.95
35%
For stranded and solid CAT6 cable. Pk10.
PP1447 REG $13.95 CLUB $8.95
25%
60% Tin / 40% Lead. Resin cored. 2 sizes
available. 1.00mm & 0.71mm.
NS3010/NS3005
REG $15.95ea CLUB $11.95ea
20%
LED indicator. 12/24V.
QM1494 REG $64.95 CLUB $49.95
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
Speaker cable - 30m roll
Universal tablet
headrest mount
Long range
infrared spotlight
3AG fuse pack
20%
Extra heavy duty Fig 8.
WB1713 REG $74.95 CLUB $59.95
25%
Padded clamps. 360° rotating ball-joint.
HS9033 REG $19.95 CLUB $14.95
25%
35%
50m viewing range. Weatherproof.
QC3654 REG $79.95 CLUB $59.95
500mA - 10A. 40 fuses.
SF2240 REG $12.95 CLUB $7.95
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
NERD
PERKS
SAVE
Professional cat IV
multimeter probes
24V EI core transformer
USB port to
RS-485/422 Converter
1N4007 1A 1000V diode
30%
High grade. 120mm long.
WT5338 REG $21.95 CLUB $14.95
25%
24V, 72VA, 3A rated. 200mm
flylead connection.
MM2012 REG $27.95 CLUB $19.95
a better club is coming.
keep being rewarded!
Check your email & contact details are correct
In-store or online now. Don’t miss out!
20%
Up to 480Mbps data transmission.
XC4136 REG $49.95 CLUB $ 39.95
50%
Pack of 100.
ZR1008 REG $12.95 CLUB $ 6.45
GET 10% OFF*
mains laptop power supplies
To order: phone 1800 022 888 or visit www.jaycar.com.au
*See T&C’s for details
on sale 24.1.19 - 23.2.19
59
what’s new
FROM ONLY
4995
$
• MORE POWERFUL
Deliver twice as much current under load
• RECHARGE FASTER
Accept a higher charge current
• MORE PORTABLE
Weigh half as much
The next
SB220
1
generation in
power is here!
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are
the latest in battery technology. Featuring up to
10 times the battery cycle life with only half the
weight of its lead-acid equivalent. More reliable
too with faster recharging and reduced number
of charges.
• SAFER
Do not produce explosive hydrogen gas
• LONGER LIFE
SB2
6.4V 4.5Ah
12.8V 7.5Ah
12.8V 18Ah
12.8V 100Ah
200
SB2200 $49.95
SB2201 $129
SB2202 $249
SB2203 $999
JUST
ONLY
ONLY
JUST
199
14
$
$
20A MPPT solar charge
controller for lithium
or SLA batteries
95
Uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)
to manage battery charging from
a connected solar panel. 3 stage
charging. Light & timer control. LED
indicator. MP3762
ONLY
4995
SL3530
8
$
95
Miniature 12/24V 3A PWM
solar charge controller
Uses Maximum Power Point Tracking
(MPPT) for maximum efficiency and
charge rate. Supports sealed, gel or
flooded lead acid and Lithium batteries.
3-stage intelligent charging. MP3741
FROM
6995
$
Wireless infrared remote
control extender
Allows you to use your remote
control on devices up to 50m
away! Plug and play operation. USB
powered. Includes 1x transmitter,
1x receiver and 2x mains power
adaptors. AR1866
ONLY
79
$
95
$
Automatic LED
night lights with sensor
10A double gpo power
point with in-built rcd
Automatically switches on and
off based on ambient light.
Mains powered. Plug and play.
• SAA approved
Night Light
SL3530 $8.95
Hallway Light SL3531 $9.95
Designed to be a direct replacement to
your standard GPO fittings, combining
two standard 240AC 10A mains (GPO)
outlets with a built-in RCD to provide
protection against electrical shock. LED
indicators. PS4048
Toslink & coax audio
cat5e/6 extender with IR
Perfect for running ultra-long digital
audio connections up to 200m with
no loss in quality! Includes 2-way
infrared emitter, infrared receiver
and mains power adaptor. AC1733
3495
$
3-Way optical toslink splitter
Distribute your digital audio
connection to multiple sources such
as sound bars, headphones or your
home theatre system.
USB powered.
AC1590
ONLY
249
$
12" Rechargeable
PA speaker with
Bluetooth® technology
Play your music from a
Bluetooth® source, USB
flash drive, microSD card or
auxiliary input. USB/microSD
playback & recording.
Extendable trolley handle &
wheels. CS2497
For your nearest store
& opening hours:
SUPERCHEAP
AUTO
PAR
K
TOTAL
TOOLS
PARR
AMA
T TA R
CAR
NEW TO
N ST
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / NERD PERKS CARD HOLDERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, DOUBLE POINTS & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / Nerd Perks Card membership at time of
purchase. Refer to website for Rewards/ Nerd Perks Card T&Cs. PAGE 1: 30% OFF Rack Mount Accessories applies to Jaycar 232A: Enclosures & Panel Hardware – Metal Rack Enclosures. PAGE 3: Nerd Perks Card Holders receive a
special price of $94.95 for GPS World Clock Project Kit when purchased as bundle (1 × SR1230 + 1 × XC4617 + 1 × XC4420 + 1 × XC3712 + 1 × WC6028 + 1 × HP0406 + 1 × HP0425 + 3 × HP0148 + 1 × HB6011 + 1 × RC5360).
PAGE 7: Nerd Perks Card holders receive 30% OFF RRP on LA5197 Counter or LA5188 Door Buzzer with every purchased of LA5193 Door Entry Alert. Nerd Perks Card Holders receives 10% OFF Mains Laptop Power Supplies:
Applies to Jaycar 701D: Connectivity - Computer Power Products excluding UPS (MP5205, MP5207 & MP5224).
1800 022 888
www.jaycar.com.au
CARPET
COURT
D
HA
MP
TO
N
RD
PAR
RAM
AT T
A
RD
HARVEY NORMAN
AUBURN
NEW STORE
auburn
233-239 Parramatta Rd, NSW 2142
PH: 02 9648 1360
100 stores & over
140 stockists nationwide
Head Office
320 Victoria Road,
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100
Fax: (02) 8832 3169
Online Orders
www.jaycar.com.au
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please
ring your local store to check stock details. Occasionally there are discontinued items advertised on a special / lower
price in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Stockist. These
stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and
special offers are valid from catalogue sale 24.1.19 - 23.2.19.
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New “WT” Soldering Station range from Weller
The powerful new generation Weller WT101AU soldering station is claimed to be innovative, easy to use and
highly cost-effective, combining the low cost of a passive
soldering system with the design and
ergonomics of an active one.
With the new lightweight and thin
90W soldering iron, Weller is presenting
the world’s first active soldering system
with replaceable, passive, high performance soldering tips. It features a soft
rubber grip and thin silicone cable.
Multiple stations can be stacked on top of one another
saving vital desk space. The display boasts a new inclined
design offering a more natural viewing angle and features
clearly arranged graphics which make it possible to understand setting parameters at a glance.
The control panel on the front is distinctive and offers an
uncluttered and particularly clear design. All of the impor-
Mouser Electronics Now
Shipping New Arduino
Uno WiFi Rev 2
Novus LogBox 3G IoT data logger
Mouser Electronics, Inc. is now
shipping the highly anticipated Uno
WiFi Rev 2 from Arduino. The first AVRbased, natively-enabled Internet of Things
(IoT) board from Arduino, the Uno WiFi Rev 2 board integrates
an 8-bit microcontroller, WiFi module, sensors, and hardwarebased security in the familiar Uno Rev 3 form factor. The new
board addresses the wireless connectivity and low power demands of the growing IoT market.
The Arduino Uno WiFi Rev 2 is based on the new Microchip
Technology ATmega4809 megaAVR microcontroller. The ATmega4809 offers Core Independent Peripherals (CIPs) and an
integrated high-speed analog-to-digital converter (ADC) with
voltage reference for faster conversion of analog signals. The
microcontroller also provides more memory than on previous
Uno boards, boasting 48 kBytes of flash and 6 kBytes of RAM,
plus three UARTs to enable communication with more than
one RF module.
It includes a u-blox NINA-W13 module with integrated TCP/
IP protocol stack to provide 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi connectivity enabling access to a Wi-Fi network or for use as an access point.
The board also features support for over-the-air (OTA) programming for transfer of Arduino sketches or Wi-Fi firmware. Wireless security is provided by a Microchip ECC608 CryptoAuthentication IC, which combines hardware-based key storage with
hardware cryptographic accelerators to implement authentication and encryption protocols. Other features include onboard
debugging, inertial measurement
unit (IMU) with 3-axis accelerom- Contact:
eter and 3-axis gyroscope, 14 dig- Mouser Electronics
ital input/output pins (five PWM Web: www.mouser.com/
arduino-uno-wifi-rev2
outputs) and six analog inputs.
siliconchip.com.au
tant operating elements are placed on the front. The menu
button ensures instant access allowing users to navigate
through the menu
Contact:
structure easily.
Weller solder- Apex Tool Group Australia Pty Ltd
ing equipment is 519 Nurigong Street, Albury, NSW 2640
distributed by the Tel: (02) 9425 6600
Apex Tool Group. Web: apextoolgroup.com.au
The new Novus LogBox 3G is an Internet of Things device
with an integrated data logger and 3G mobile connectivity.
This allows it to be a remote telemetry or mobile monitoring
solution. Data can be accessed remotely and centrally through
a SCADA application or using the free NXperience software.
The device has two universal analog inputs that accept a
wide range of sensors (thermocouples, RTD, 4-20mA and
0-10V). It also has internal sensors for measuring temperature, battery voltage and external sources. In addition, LogBox 3G has SMS alarm commands and alerts.
Novus provides a free cloud service. To use it integrated with
the cloud or SCADA software, the user only needs to fill in a
few fields such as login and access password through the NOVUS IoT platform, identify the device and the desired channel.
Data from the Logbox can be downloaded or configuration carried out by a PC using the free NXperience software.
Memory capacity is 140,000 records.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Contact:
Ocean Controls
44 Frankston Gdns Dve, Carrum Downs Vic 3201
Tel: (03) 9708 3290
Website: oceancontrols.com.au
February 2019 61
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
(What) were the designers thinking?
One problem with being an engineer, a
serviceman, or similar is that whenever we
see something mechanical or electrical, we
immediately (and mostly subconsciously) assess
it for a range of criteria, such as what it is made
of and the methods used to manufacture it.
Or, in my case (especially in my younger, more
inquisitive days), how one could take it apart.
Basically, we can’t help but be analytical.
Let’s face it – everything we use,
buy or make has a design element to
it, and supposedly some theory sits
behind that design. However, I often
find myself quietly cursing the stupidity of some of these designs because
it appears that no actual thought processes have gone into them.
This phenomenon is by no means
modern; engineers have been bemoaning poor design for as long as there
have been people making things.
It might seem more prevalent these
days because of the number of YouTube channels dedicated to pulling
apart everything from tools and machinery to appliances and cars, often
for laughs. But they always seem to be
asking the age-old question: what was
the designer thinking?
I can reel off several examples for
you. I grew up with older British-made
cars and some of the decisions made
during the manufacture of those vehicles begs the same question.
To get the engine out of a Morris,
Austin, MG or Wolseley 1100/1300 for
example, you either have to have double-jointed hands the size of a small
child, cut an access hole in the passenger floor pan, or have an impossible-to-source specially-made spanner.
I had the motor in and out of my
1300 so many times we cut a hole in
the floor (replacing it with a suitable
access cover) and used a special spanner Dad made after seeing one at a garage in town.
And take the original Mini; iconic
though it is, one gets the distinct im62
Silicon Chip
pression that they designed and built
the car and then discovered they’d left
nowhere for the battery, so it went in
the boot. There are many other examples and while I know these cars were
built down to a price, making life
more difficult for the poor
sod who inevitably
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dave Thompson
Items Covered This Month
•
•
Learning a painful lesson
HP 3585 spectrum analyser
repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
has to work on it is just not cricket.
Editor’s note: making fun of poor
British car design is like shooting
fish in a barrel. Who hasn’t heard of
Lucas Electrics, AKA the Prince of
Darkness? They were
truly innovative:
they invented
siliconchip.com.au
the intermittent wiper, the first selfdipping high-beam and they also produced a very potent anti-theft device:
their ignition systems. It’s difficult to
steal a car that won’t start!
A design dud in the kitchen
A while ago, we purchased a sandwich maker; one of those clam-shell
types that closes and bisects the sandwich while cooking it. In my opinion, this device has several design
problems.
Firstly, the top plastic cover protrudes out over the bottom section at
the rear of the maker, ostensibly to
cover the hot hinges and keep them
away from wayward hands.
But the steam produced while cooking is very effectively trapped by this
hollow, overhanging moulding. The
steam then condenses and drips down
onto the bench and power cable. We
have to put a folded paper towel or similar beneath it, to avoid pools of greasy
water forming under the back feet.
While this is no deal-breaker, it
clearly isn’t a good design. And that
isn’t the only problem, either. The
more significant failing is the fact that
no matter what brand of bread we buy,
none of the slices fit correctly.
The bread slices either fit entirely inside the cooking cavity and don’t make
contact with the edges, or they end up
with one edge sticking out the sides.
(Editor’s note: perhaps you are using
metric bread, and it was designed for
imperial? Try using a British Standard
Loaf and see if that fits.)
While the smaller slice might seem
the way to go, fillings (cheeses in particular) bleed copiously from any seam
that isn’t clamped and sealed by the
elements and then proceed to leak out
all over the rest of the machine and
the benchtop.
This leads us to another design flaw:
the gaps between the elements and the
case mouldings. From the first sandwich we made, these cavities fill up
with crumbs, cheese, water and anything else that might be cooked in the
appliance. After just a few months of
weekend-lunch use, this sandwich
maker was so filthy and impossible to
clean properly that my wife refused to
use it anymore.
Being the gentleman serviceman, I
took it to the workshop and stripped it
down to clean it out, and what a lovely
job that was!
It is generally pretty easy to take
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apart, except for the vain attempt by
the manufacturer to prevent me undoing four, pimple-bottomed Torx-style
“safety screws”.
But I did have to cut the connectorsecured power cables off to free the
bottom plastic case shell, as the power lead clamps to it with flying wires
connecting to the elements through a
small hole in the case.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The reason I went that far is because
the bottom half was almost completely covered with both greasy and rockhard melted cheese and breadcrumbs.
I had to chip some of it off with a
screwdriver. I used my heat gun to soften the baked-on gunk on the outside
of the case because it couldn’t be removed without otherwise damaging
the shiny plastic finish.
I would have expected this type of
mess after a year’s worth of use by a
family of five, but it seems a bit excessive for a few months use by two of us.
Of course, we could use a smaller
quantity of ingredients, but where’s the
delight in an empty toasted sandwich?
A quick visit to some big-box stores
with a pocket tape-measure confirmed
my suspicion that all similar sandwich makers have the same size cooking cavities as ours, or very close to
it. Has no sandwich-maker designer
ever purchased a loaf of bread at the
supermarket?
Perhaps there is a theoretical standard slice size, but if so, not many bakers adhere to it. If I designed a sandwich maker, I’d make it so that the
majority of everyday
bread slices fitted it
properly.
February 2019 63
Ah, the bad old days
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
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Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
someone had knocked my hand away
with a bat.
When I pulled my hand in front
of my face, the top 5mm of my right
thumb was hanging by a thread, and
there was blood everywhere. Yikes! I
didn’t know what I’d done at the time,
and can’t recall how I got out, but I do
remember walking up to the guys in
the workshop by the hangar floor holding my hand out and telling them I
thought I might need the nurse!
It turns out that some bright spark
in a design department somewhere
had dreamed up a modification to
keep some equipment cool in the bay
and a 120mm steel-bladed cooling fan
had been fitted to the rear of one of
these racks on a previous maintenance
visit. I didn’t know it was there, and
the powers-that-be saw no need for a
safety cover for the fan because it was
mounted “out of the way”.
Now, modifications like this aren’t
just dreamed up by some bloke with
a hangover one Monday morning and
installed that afternoon.
This would have been thought
out and put through rigorous checks
and balances at the highest levels
by the manufacturer, or one of their
contractors. They would first see if
it was required, then ensure it was
implemented to the highest possible
standards.
This process also involves updating the very comprehensive manuals
that go with every aircraft; these huge
books document every nut, bolt, panel,
cable, washer, rivet, system, component and piece of equipment inside it,
along with all the specifications, circuit diagrams and schematics of literally everything on board.
Not one of the dozens of people involved in this design process thought
about installing a safety screen.
Any new addition to an aircraft, regardless of whether it is a plastic bung
for the end of a seat frame or a whole
new navigation system, is also rigorously tested – destructively and nondestructively – by the aircraft manufacturer and interested third-parties
before getting anywhere near a plane.
It can take many months, if not
years, before the information and parts
are eventually available to the endusers for implementation. Something
fell short here.
Inevitably, I had to take time off
work and the injury also caused me
to miss my final exams – which I had
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A more severe example of designer
negligence harks back to my days as
an aircraft engineer. Actually, I was
technically still an apprentice at the
time, in my final year and just before
my final trade exams.
For those not familiar with widebodied aircraft, at least back in those
days, most of the major electronic
components are kept in a special area
called the E&E (Electronic and Equipment) bay.
Much of an aircraft’s radios, controllers, computers and various other components are packed into this space,
mounted in special racks and cabled
in with vast looms of wires strung from
the farthest reaches of the plane.
This room is accessible via a hatch
beneath the aircraft (sometimes from
inside as well) and it varies in size depending on the aircraft. The E&E bay
on a 737 is a lot smaller than that on
an A380. On some planes, I’d need a
step to boost me up enough to climb
in, while taller guys could often work
standing on the ground.
On the particular aircraft I was
working on then, an ageing Boeing
727, one of three then-used as transports by our Air Force (nothing but
the oldest and cheapest crates for our
boys!), the bay required me to climb
a special ladder to access it. As I was
of a smaller and skinnier physical size
back then, I got all the jobs the bigger
guys opted out of.
Being an apprentice also had a lot
to do with this, and apprentices usually got fun jobs like cleaning bird remains from the engines of aircraft that
had suffered bird strikes.
Bird strikes are rare (thank goodness!), but when they happened, the
task of cleaning the rear section of
the engine would be passed down the
chain of command until it hit the bottom – an apprentice.
As one of the guys said at the time,
“manure rolls downhill”; although
those are not the exact words that he
used.
You’d think that a seagull going
through all the turbines and vanes
spinning at thousands of RPM inside
those big jet engines would essentially
be vaporised. This is not the case, and
it is a particularly unpleasant task to
kneel in puddles of aviation fuel in a
confined and grimy metal tube scraping crispy bird remains from the sides
of the engine. It put me off chicken
for years.
Thankfully, as I moved up the pecking order (hah!), that job became a
younger apprentice’s problem.
Learning a painful lesson for
someone else
One job I did do a lot, just because I
was one of the smallest qualified guys,
was inspecting, cleaning and repairing
wiring looms inside the wing-tanks on
whatever plane needed it.
If you think there isn’t enough room
in the wing of a plane for a person to
work, you are mostly right; it is a very
tight and claustrophobic space, especially when decked out with all the
lights and breathing gear and carrying
special anti-static tools.
My foreman always swore that he’d
cut a hole in the skin of the wing if I
ever got stuck in there, but now I’m not
so sure he’d have kept that promise!
But I digress; I had work to do in this
727’s E&E bay, adding wires to an existing loom for some new component
going in. This required me to contort
myself into a flat position on my back
while curling around sideways to get
right in behind one of the racks so I
could crimp and terminate the wiring
into a Canon connector mounted on a
frame there.
It was tight and taxing work and
once again, because I was one of the
smaller guys, I got assigned to do this
type of thing a lot.
The problem wasn’t getting into position, but getting out again when my
arms were in behind the racks and my
feet hanging out the hole in the floor;
I didn’t have a lot to push against to
make my way out. I reached up to lever
myself against the back of the rack and
felt a sudden hard whack, as though
Servicing Stories Wanted
64
Silicon Chip
to sit later. I also had to play guitar at
a friend’s wedding that weekend and
did so painfully, with the pick taped
to my comically-large thumb bandage.
My right thumb is still shorter than
my left because the base doctor just
tore the damaged bit off and threw it
in the bin!
I recall it hurting, a lot, and it didn’t
help when several guys from the technical department came over and had a
look around before interviewing me,
claiming they never thought – and I
quote – that “anyone would be stupid enough to stick their hand in it”.
The only silver lining is that the
fan was running in the direction that
pushed my hand out, rather than simply ate it whole. A mesh screen was
eventually fitted and I’ll wager most
other fans fitted after that had one
too, regardless of where they were
situated.
I (and others) couldn’t believe this
mod had made its way right through
the testing and vetting process without
someone realising that having a highspeed steel cooling fan unshrouded
in a work environment might be a bit
of a health and safety issue. I mean,
we are talking about an industry that
is typically extremely paranoid about
every aspect of safety!
I’m guessing that the character sitting at a drawing board who originally dreamt this up, along with the people who subsequently signed off on it,
have never had a pair of overalls on or
wired a rack in an E&E bay. You just
can’t beat hands-on experience.
Even the grass is mocking me
And on another note, I recently purchased a new lawn mower, given it’s
the time of year when you can hear
the grass growing. It is a well-known,
dayglow yellow brand and I assumed
they’d know a thing or two about making lawnmowers.
However, when I tried it, even set
at the lowest blade position, the lawn
was still looking uncut. I like a short
lawn; not shaved earth, but preferably cut enough so I don’t have to do
it twice a week. All my old mowers
could cut this short but this one goes
no shorter than the industry standard
of 25mm.
I contemplated modifying the level
notches on the side, but even with the
deck scraping on the ground, the cut
was still far too long. The blade disc
is just too high in the deck. I ended
siliconchip.com.au
up removing the large, central bolt
holding the blade disc on and added
10mm of washer shims to the top-hat
style mounting plate before bolting it
all back on.
It now it cuts perfectly, but it begs
the question; did the guy who designed
this mower ever mow an actual lawn
with it?
HP 3585 spectrum analyser repair
A. L. S., of Turramurra, NSW, has
had one thing after another go wrong
with his 40-year-old Hewlett-Packard
spectrum analyser. But he’s obviously
very attached to it since he keeps on
fixing it each time. Here is what he
had to do to keep it going over the last
couple of years...
The HP 3585 Spectrum Analyser is
a very versatile instrument, covering
the frequency range of 20Hz to 40MHz
with a 3Hz resolution, making it useful
for both audio and RF applications. It
also has a built-in tracking generator.
Unlike most spectrum analysers
(which usually only tolerate tiny RF
signals), its input capabilities are
really good with a selectable input impedance of 50W, 75W or 1MW
and with 42V peak handling, which
is ideal for testing medium-power
audio amplifiers.
I purchased this one locally for a few
hundred dollars on eBay; that’s quite a
bargain when you consider that it was
more than $30,000 brand new in 1978.
Australia’s electronics magazine
To put that into perspective, it was the
same price as a Mercedes Benz 450SL!
My unit had a number of faults that
occurred over a two year period, so in
that respect, it’s probably about as reliable as an old Merc too.
First, some intermittent flashover
started happening in the CRT EHT
section, usually during periods of high
humidity, causing the CRT to eventually fail altogether. I noticed that the
LEDs on the front panel appeared to
still be operating normally and a quick
screen grab using a GPIB/USB connection proved that the instrument was
still fully functional, apart from the
lack of display.
Using the display (X & Y) BNC connections at the back of the instrument,
I was able to obtain a very good working display on a 20MHz analog oscilloscope set to X/Y mode, as shown in
the accompanying photo. This only
works with an old-fashioned CRO
though; most digital scopes are just
not fast enough to do this!
I used this arrangement for some
time while I waited for a surplus CRT
and EHT supply to arrive which I had
ordered from the internet. When they
finally came, I first had to turn the instrument upside-down, which was difficult because it weighs 40kg!
I removed the HT supply box to
take a closer look and to figure out
how to change the CRT and it did
not look easy. There was a fair old
February 2019 65
Circuit diagram for the motherboard of the HP 3585 from the second service manual (A41; page 192), which can be found here: www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.
php?id=manuals&dir=HP_Agilent
66
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
amount of accumulated dust around
the EHT leads and components. This
was probably the cause of the sparks;
after a long spell of high humidity, the
dust absorbed enough water to become
conductive.
I cleaned everything out, including the interior of the EHT box, using rags and methylated spirits and
then dried it all out. Then I noticed a
small perspex cover which concealed
a 1A fuse and a quick check revealed
it had failed. I replaced it, thinking
that it would instantly blow again,
but magically the whole instrument
lit up and the CRT display was bright
and normal.
The instrument then functioned
well for a year. Then one day, it refused
to start up properly. All the LEDs on
the front panel lit up but nothing else
happened.
Switching the instrument off and
on a couple of times brought it to life
and that is how it operated for a few
months until finally, nothing happened at switch-on except for the front
panel lighting up. I left it for some time
to gather cobwebs because I had another HP 3585a which worked properly,
except its knobs, which meant that I
could not control the tracking generator amplitude.
Eventually, I decided to tackle the
fault by exchanging a few spare low
voltage regulator PCBs that I had obtained from the internet. There are
five of these in each instrument, so
I changed them one by one but that
didn’t cure the fault.
The service manual, which runs to
three volumes and 884 pages, points
out that one faulty board may be capable of damaging another so that the
end result might be several damaged
boards and this worried me a bit.
The output voltages from these
boards measured correctly and that
plus the fact that the five green status LEDs were all lit, suggested that
the power supply was functioning
correctly.
Again, I put the instrument aside,
fearing that the fault was too elusive,
and went back to the older working
instrument.
Some time later, I decided that I had
to throw it away or fix it. I decided to
substitute the PCBs from the working
unit and take a risk that I might end
up with damaged boards and have two
dud instruments.
There are about 24 boards in total,
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An analog oscilloscope was used temporarily as a replacement screen.
The inside of the spectrum analyser is packed with boards (24 in total).
The HP 3585 motherboard shown above, corresponding to the circuit diagram at
left. The 80-pin CPU (U13) is located under the large ribbed heatsink.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
many of which are difficult to access,
so I just started at one end and replaced
the suspect boards with the good ones.
Rather than swap in one board,
check if it works and then swap it back,
I decided to move all the known-good
boards into the unit one by one, in case
two or more boards were faulty. Then
suddenly, after I replaced the central
processor board, everything came to
life again.
As it happened, I had a spare processor board on hand, amongst a set of
boards that I had previously purchased
from eBay for spares. It was horribly
dirty but the unit worked with it in
place, so I had two working instruments at last! But that is not the end
of the story.
Ironically, just as I was finishing this
story, a similar fault occurred and the
instrument would not start up, even
though some LEDs were flashing normally on the front panel. It came back
to life when I substituted the processor board (03585-66541) from “old
faithful”.
Apparently, I now have two dud
processor boards and there are none
to be had on the internet. The usual
parts sellers told me that they had sold
all their processor boards. I was back
to square one.
I tried to repair the faulty boards referring to the excellent repair manual;
I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors (and the other capacitors for good
measure) but nothing worked.
The voltages around the main ICs
all measure good but there are 23 of
them so replacing them would be a
massive undertaking, even if they
were available.
And then there is the main processor chip which is the size of my wallet and definitely not a standard item!
I found one internet seller that had
three dud HP 3585 analysers for sale.
He was asking $800-1,000 each for
shipping but the photo of the instrument showed a very dim glimmer
of a trace which indicated a healthy
processor board, so I asked him if he
would accept half price and pull out
the desired PCB and post it to me via
USPS for about $40.
After about 20 emails back and forth,
we finally came to an agreement on
price and the board arrived safely and
it actually worked. The reason for the
failure of these boards remain a mystery but I have kept the two dud boards
for future spares.
SC
February 2019 67
USB
Keyboard
and Mouse
Adaptor for Micros
How can you connect a keyboard, or a mouse, to a microcontroller,
especially now that most keyboards and mouses have a USB plug? This
Adaptor is the answer. It makes it simple to connect a USB keyboard or
mouse to any micro! It’s small, easy to build and it won’t break the bank!
by Tim Blythman
A
keyboard or mouse would be
a great addition to your Micromite or Arduino project,
especially given how cheap a USB
keyboard or mouse is these days. But
there hasn’t been an easy way to do it.
Until now!
One of the most challenging parts
of designing a project around a microcontroller is providing a way for the
user to control it.
Touchscreens are great but let’s face
it: an on-screen keyboard is not particularly easy to use, and usually takes
up most of the screen.
A touchscreen PLUS a physical keyboard is a way better user interface solution. And if you can add a mouse
cursor, so much the better!
And there’s the added bonus that
many USB keyboards and mouses are
wireless these days. How convenient
is that, an input method for your microcontroller project that doesn’t even
need to be tethered to it via a cable?
And this is a far easier way to
achieve that than a home-brew wireless communication system. It’s just
“plug and play”.
We’re using the term “mouses” as
Connecting the Adaptor to your
computer via a CP2102 USB/
Serial module is a simple
way to test and configure it.
You can see here how
compact the unit is when
connected to a wireless
keyboard or mouse dongle.
68
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the plural for a computer mouse, as
opposed to “mice”, which usually
refers to the mammalian kind, or
even “meeces” as you’d find
in a comic!
The compact unit presented
here bridges the gap between a
USB keyboard or mouse and
a simple microcontroller. The
keyboard or mouse plugs into
one side (or its tiny dongle, if
it’s wireless) and a serial data
stream is produced from the other
side that any micro would find dead
easy to read.
There are various settings to adapt
the serial data stream to your particular requirements, including a mode
which allows detection of practically
all keys on a keyboard with just a single byte transmitted for each keypress.
Similarly, for a mouse, there are
multiple modes to choose from, including one which supports three
movement axes and up to five buttons.
With USB hardware being cheap
and plentiful, it’s now possible to easily and cheaply add these peripherals
to your latest project.
By the way, we know that you can
also do this with a USB host shield or
an Arduino Due. But our solution has
two big advantages: (a) it is cheaper
and (b) it’s definitely easier for you,
and smaller too.
How it works
The Adaptor has a USB Type-A
socket at one end, for plugging in a
keyboard or mouse, and a four-way
pin header at the other end which has
a standard TTL serial port interface
and is also used to supply 5V DC power to the board (and keyboard/mouse).
Any device which can supply 5V
and communicate via serial can therefore make use of a USB keyboard or
mouse – wired or wireless!
When a keyboard is connected, the
keystrokes are converted into data that
is sent down the serial transmit line
to whatever device is attached.
Similarly, when a mouse is plugged
in, data is generated on the serial port
when you move it or click the buttons. This data is designed to be easy
for a microcontroller to interpret and
act upon.
The USB Keyboard and Mouse
Adaptor also has three LEDs to indicate its status. The red LED lights up
when 5V power is applied.
When a compatible keyboard or
siliconchip.com.au
Features & specifications
Simple and low cost
Accepts either a USB keyboard or mouse (two different firmware images)
Translates key presses or mouse movement/clicks into serial data
Just one pin on a micro required to receive either keyboard or mouse data
Build two to connect both a keyboard and a mouse up to the same micro
Configurable baud rate from 1200 to 115,200
ASCII translation for keyboards with optional codes for special keys
VT100 emulation option for keyboards
Supports mouses with up to three axes and five buttons
Configurable mouse update rate and scaling factor
Onboard status LEDs
Powered from 5V DC
mouse is connected, the red LED extinguishes and the green LED illuminates instead. The yellow LED flashes
each time keyboard or mouse activity
is detected and it lights up continuously while the unit is being configured.
There are also four jumpers on the
board. JP1 can be used to enter set-up
mode (you can also do this via the serial console). JP2 temporarily resets
the configuration to default while JP3
permanently resets it to default upon
power-up (ie, writes default settings
to flash). When JP4 is inserted, configuration mode is not available, so
the configuration can’t be accidentally changed.
Circuit description
The circuit, shown in Fig.1, is based
around a PIC32MX270 microcontroller, IC1. This is a slightly newer
version of the micro used previously in the ASCII Video Terminal project (July 2014; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/7925), the difference being
that it has twice as much flash and
RAM.
It’s also closely related to the
chip used for the 28-pin Micromite
(May-June 2014; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/261), which we have used in
so many projects.
The only difference between the
PIC32MX270 used here and the PIC32MX170 used for the Micromite is
that the -270 version has USB support,
with pins 21 & 22 able to be used either as general-purpose I/Os (GPIOs)
as RB10/RB11 or for USB communication (D+/D-).
These are wired directly to the USB
Type-A socket, CON2, which is also
Australia’s electronics magazine
fed the board’s 5V power supply, to
power the keyboard or mouse.
The USB version of this chip has
two fewer I/O pins than the nonUSB version, which are instead used
to supply power to the internal USB
controller (USB3V3) and for USB bus
voltage sensing (VBUS).
IC1’s clock source is 16MHz crystal
X1, connected between its clock input
and output pins (pins 9 & 10), along
with 22pF load capacitors. This is
required to ensure that the USB communication timings meet the specifications. IC1’s internal PLL (phaselocked loop) multiplies this 16MHz
source up to 48MHz for its instruction
clock and that is then divided by four
to get the required 12MHz USB clock.
Indicator LEDs LED1-LED3 are driven by GPIO pins RA0, RB15 and RB13
respectively (pins 2, 26 & 24), via 1k
current-limiting resistors.
Jumper headers JP1-JP4 connect
between GPIO pins RB9, 8, 7 and 5
(pins 18-16 & 14) and ground. Internal pull-ups on those pins keep them
high when the headers are not shorted,
allowing IC1 to detect the presence or
absence of the four jumpers.
Power supply
IC1 requires a low-ESR capacitor
between pin 20 (VCAP) and ground,
of at least 10µF, to filter its internal
1.8V core supply. To meet the low
ESR requirement, we are specifying
a 47µF tantalum capacitor, only because we have previously found that
lower value tantalum capacitors do
not always meet the ESR requirement
of less than 1.
That is why we have often used
SMD ceramics in this role the past,
February 2019 69
REG1
MCP1700-3.3
D1 1N5819
+5V
A
K
CON1
ICSP
+3.3V
1
GND
3
4
5
6
7
CON3
UART
+5V
15
2x 1k
11
12
GND
9
X1 16MHz
22pF
SC
20 1 9
10 F
10
OUT
VDD
AVDD
VUSB3V3
MCLR
RA1/AN1/VREF–
VREF+/AN0/RA0
RB 0/AN 2/PGED1
AN9/RB15
RB1/AN3/PGEC1
AN 10/RB 14
AN 11/RB 13
RB2/AN4
RB3/AN5
A
LED1
K
A
LED2
K
A
LED3
K
23
1k
2
26
25
1k
24
CON2
USB TYPE A
IC1
PIC32MX270F256B
22
-50I/SP
PGEC 2/RB 11/D–
VBUS/PGEC 3/RB 6
PGED2/RB 10/D+
SOSCI/RB4
TD0/RB 9
SOSCO /RA4
TCK/RB 8
CLK1/RA2
TDI/RB 7
PGED3/RB5
VCAP
CLKO/RA3
22pF
K
A
GND
1k
13
28
10k
1
IN
GND
10 F
10 F
LEDS
MC P1700
+3.3V
OUT
IN
AVSS
27
VSS
19
VSS
8
D–
21
+5V
D+
18
GND
17
16
14
20
47 F
TANT
JP4
JP3
JP2
JP1
1N5819
USB KEYBOARD & MOUSE ADAPTOR
A
K
Fig.1: the circuit diagram for the USB Keyboard & Mouse Adaptor, which is based around PIC32 microcontroller IC1.
It communicates directly with the USB keyboard or mouse plugged into CON2, which is powered from the external 5V
supply. The micro translates any keystrokes or mouse movements received and sends them to the serial port on pins 2 &
3 of pin header CON3.
as they can be relied upon to have
a low ESR, even at 10µF. We’ve also
found ceramics to be more reliable,
long-term.
However, in this case, we’ve decided to stick with a through-hole component, hence the use of a tantalum
capacitor.
Power is fed into the board via the
5V and GND connections of CON3,
which also carries the serial data.
The supply has to be very close to
5V; ±5% is required by the USB specification, ie, 4.75-5.25V. This supply
is used to power the USB keyboard or
mouse directly.
Fortunately, most keyboards and
mouses have modest power requirements, so as long as your supply can
provide a couple of hundred milliamps, that should be plenty.
The 5V supply is bypassed by a
10µF capacitor, then fed via schottky
diode D1 to another 10µF capacitor
and regulated to 3.3V by REG1, an
MCP1700 low-dropout (LDO) regulator. This has a 10µF output filter capacitor.
We’ve tested several such capacitors
70
Silicon Chip
to ensure that they have an ESR of less
than 2as specified in the MCP1700
data sheet.
The 3.3V output of REG1 powers
IC1 and is fed to its three supply pins:
VDD (pin 13), analog VDD (AVDD,
pin 28) and USB3V3 (pin 23), which
powers the internal USB transceiver.
Diode D1 ensures that any high current pulses drawn from the 5V rail do
not come from REG1’s input filter capacitor and assists with the stability
of the 3.3V rail when transients occur
on the 5V rail.
The 10k pull-up resistor connected between pin 1 (MCLR) and the 3.3V
rail prevents spurious resets of the
micro which may occur due to EMI
or power supply transients. MCLR is
connected to CON1, the in-circuit serial programming (ICSP) header, along
with the 3.3V supply for IC1 and its
PGED1 and PGEC1 programming pins.
The pinout of IC1 suits a PICkit 3 or 4.
IC1 has two internal hardware
UARTs (serial ports). These can be
mapped to various combinations of
pins.
In this case, we have set up U1TX
Australia’s electronics magazine
on pin 11 (RPB4) and U1RX on pin 12
(RPA4). These go to CON3, the serial/
power header, via 1k series resistors.
These allow the serial port to work
safely with either 5V or 3.3V devices,
as well as providing some extra ESD
(static electricity) protection.
Operating modes
There are several different settings
which can be changed to suit your
requirements but the most important
one for keyboards is the translation
mode. It can be set to translate either
to 7-bit ASCII, 8-bit ASCII or VT100.
In 7-bit ASCII mode, key presses
will produce standard characters such
as lower case or upper case letters,
numbers, punctuation, space, Enter,
tab, backspace and so on. Other key
presses such as arrow keys, page up/
down, print screen and so on are ignored.
If you have a number pad, numeric
codes are produced in this mode but
only when Num Lock is active.
Ctrl-letter key combinations also
work in 7-bit ASCII mode. For example, Ctrl-C maps to ASCII code 3,
siliconchip.com.au
which is used by the Micromite and
many other systems to stop the currently running program. Control plus
the letters A-Z map to ASCII codes
1-26.
In 8-bit ASCII mode, all the same
7-bit ASCII characters are still sent
but extended characters are also produced from other keypresses. This
mode is useful if you need to be able
to process presses of the arrow keys,
home/end, delete, F-keys, modifier
keypresses (Shift, Ctrl, Alt etc), nonnumeric number pad keys and so on.
Rather than invent a new scheme,
we’ve implemented the standard Arduino “Keyboard Modifiers” scheme,
which you can view on the following
web page: www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/KeyboardModifiers
However, that scheme is far from
complete. For example, it does not
provide any way of knowing when a
modifier key such as Shift, Ctrl or Alt
is released.
So there’s no way to know for sure
whether a key was pressed while
one of these modifier keys were held
down. And some keys on the keyboard, such as print screen and pause/
break, are missing from the Arduino
modifiers list.
So we’ve added to that list – see
Table 1. Since the Arduino keyboard
modifiers are a subset of ours, they are
compatible; your software can merely ignore any codes it doesn’t understand. But the new scheme gives you
a much better idea of what keys the
user is actually pressing. Note that all
the added key up events have the same
code as the key down events, plus 16
(hexadecimal 10).
VT100 emulation mode goes a step
further and translates certain keypresses into commands or “escape sequences” which are compatible with
the old-fashioned (1978!) VT100 video
terminal. Those commands are still
in use today in Unix-based operating
systems. They allow for things like
moving the cursor around the screen,
erasing characters and so on.
The ASCII Video Terminal project
that we mentioned earlier, from the
July 2014 issue, is a VT100-compatible terminal.
So in theory, if you connected the
USB Keyboard Adaptor up to the
ASCII Video Terminal, you could then
use the keyboard to move the cursor
around the screen and type text wherever you wanted.
siliconchip.com.au
You can find a list of VT100 escape
sequences in the ASCII Video Terminal article, on page 66 of our July
2014 issue.
The Adaptor doesn’t produce all of
those codes – just those which can be
generated from a keyboard.
Another mode setting determines
what happens when you press Enter
on the keyboard.
The unit can either generate a single code: either carriage return (CR,
ASCII 13) or line feed (LF, ASCII 10).
Or it can generate two codes: CR, then
LF. A carriage return typically moves
the cursor to the left-hand side of the
screen while line feed moves it down
one line (and possibly scrolls the display if it’s already at the bottom).
If you’re programming the receiving micro yourself, a single CR (the
default) or LF code would probably
be easier to handle.
But you may need to set the unit
to produce the CR/LF pair when using it with pre-existing software that
expects that combination, such as a
“dumb terminal”, where this code
pair moves the cursor to the start of
the next line.
Mouse modes
There are three options for the serial
data format produced when using the
Adaptor with a mouse. In all modes,
mouse movements are relative, so the
receiving device must accumulate the
movements to track the mouse cursor
position.
The default mode is the Microsoft
Serial Mouse format. This consists of
three bytes of 7-bit data for each update, containing the current mouse
button states and the horizontal and
vertical movement in pixels since the
last update.
In this mode, we set the eighth bit
of each byte to 1. The data can therefore be decoded as either 8-bit data
with one stop bit or 7-bit data with
two stop bits, but it is also compatible with systems that expect 7-bit
data with one stop bit, as the extra
bit simply appears as extra idle time
between bytes.
The Microsoft Serial Mouse format
only supports two buttons and eight
bits of movement resolution in each
axis, so we developed an eight-bit version that supports three buttons and
nine bits of movement resolution.
That is the second mouse mode that
you can select.
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Table 1 – 8-bit keyboard modifier codes
Key
Hexadecimal
code
KEY_LEFT_CTRL
0x80
KEY_LEFT_SHIFT
0x81
KEY_LEFT_ALT
0x82
KEY_LEFT_GUI
0x83
KEY_RIGHT_CTRL
0x84
KEY_RIGHT_SHIFT
0x85
KEY_RIGHT_ALT
0x86
KEY_RIGHT_GUI
0x87
KEY_LEFT_CTRL_UP
0x90 *
KEY_LEFT_SHIFT_UP
0x91 *
KEY_LEFT_ALT_UP
0x92 *
KEY_LEFT_GUI_UP
0x93 *
KEY_RIGHT_CTRL_UP
0x94 *
KEY_RIGHT_SHIFT_UP
0x95 *
KEY_RIGHT_ALT_UP
0x96 *
KEY_RIGHT_GUI_UP
0x97 *
KEY_RETURN
0xB0
KEY_ESC
0xB1
KEY_BACKSPACE
0xB2
KEY_TAB
0xB3
KEY_F1
0xC2
KEY_F2
0xC3
KEY_F3
0xC4
KEY_F4
0xC5
KEY_F5
0xC6
KEY_F6
0xC7
KEY_F7
0xC8
KEY_F8
0xC9
KEY_F9
0xCA
KEY_F10
0xCB
KEY_F11
0xCC
KEY_F12
0xCD
KEY_INSERT
0xD1
KEY_HOME
0xD2
KEY_PAGE_UP
0xD3
KEY_DELETE
0xD4
KEY_END
0xD5
KEY_PAGE_DOWN
0xD6
KEY_RIGHT_ARROW
0xD7
KEY_LEFT_ARROW
0xD8
KEY_DOWN_ARROW
0xD9
KEY_UP_ARROW
0xDA
KEY_CAPS_LOCK_ON
0xE0 *
KEY_CAPS_LOCK_OFF
0xE1 *
KEY_SCROLL_LOCK_ON 0xE2 *
KEY_SCROLL_LOCK_OFF 0xE3 *
KEY_NUM_LOCK_ON
0xE4 *
KEY_NUM_LOCK_OFF
0xE5 *
KEY_PRINTSCREEN
0xE6 *
KEY_PAUSE_BREAK
0xE7 *
* added by us
February 2019 71
SILICON CHIP
+
24311181
X1
5819
+5V
1k
22pF
16MHz
CON3 CON1
8111342
124311181
22pF
D1
1k
GND
1k
1k
+
10 F
+
C
USB Keyboard & Mouse Interface
1k
CON2
ICSP
REG1
10k
10 F
10 F
IC1 PIC32MX270F250B
MCP1700-3.3
1
LED1 K
LED2
K
LED3
K
4
3
2
1
JP4
47 F
TANT
+ JP3
JP2
JP1
The third mode produces humanreadable CSV data, with four fields.
The first field is a bitmap of the button
states and it supports up to five buttons. The next three fields are threeaxis delta values, corresponding to the
x, y and z axes. Although not many
mouses support a third (z) axis, this
data is sent over USB, so we have included it in this mode.
Note that most of the mouses that
we tried which had mouse wheels
did not report mouse wheel rotation
using the basic HID protocol, so it’s
unlikely that you will be able to detect rotation of the mouse wheel using this Adaptor.
The software
The software running on microcontroller IC1 is programmed to communicate using the USB “Human Input
Device” or HID protocol, the standard
used by keyboards and mouses (and
also some other devices).
This requires the USB interface to
run in “host mode”, which is different from the “device mode” that you
would use for communicating with a
computer via its USB port.
The HID driver is from Microchip,
which comes with several other different USB drivers in their “Harmony”
library. This is integrated with their
MPLAB X IDE (Integrated Development Environment).
The Harmony utility automatically
generates the code for low-level USB
interfacing, such as detecting and enumerating connected USB devices. We
had to add code to activate the USB
interface, query it and respond to
events that occur.
So that allows us to get keystroke
data from keyboards and mouse movement/click data from mouses. But
there are further difficulties in converting the keystroke codes from a
USB keyboard into a useful form of
serial data.
72
Silicon Chip
A
Fig.2: use this PCB overlay
diagram and photo as a guide
when building the Keyboard &
Mouse Adaptor. IC1, D1,
LEDs1-3 and the tantalum and
aluminium electrolytic capacitors
are all polarised, so must be fitted
with the orientations shown. You
can use a vertical or horizontal
pin header for CON1 and CON3
to suit your application; note
that CON1 is only required to
program IC1 in-circuit.
For the keyboard version of the firmware, the Microchip USB library calls
our user function every time a keyboard event occurs. Mostly, these are
to report that a key has been pressed
or released but there are also events indicating when a compatible keyboard
is attached or detached. We use these
events to change the status of the red
and green LEDs.
Each report from the keyboard contains a list of which keys are currently
depressed (up to six) and which combining keys are pressed (shift, Ctrl, Alt
etc). The report needs to be filtered so
that keys that are still down in subsequent reports are not detected as
pressed again. These events are then
decoded.
The keystroke events from the keyboard do not neatly map to the ASCII
codes, so we need to perform some
table lookups based on the mode and
shift keys to determine what ASCII
code to produce. The basic 7-bit ASCII
codes such as letters, numbers and
punctuation are handled first.
If the software can’t find a match
to a 7-bit ASCII code for a keystroke,
then it checks whether Enter has been
pressed, and if so, it generates either
CR, LF or CR/LF, depending on the
mode setting as explained above.
If the keystroke didn’t correspond
to a 7-bit ASCII code or Enter, and if
8-bit extended ASCII mode or VT100
mode are enabled, it then checks to
see whether the keystroke should produce one or more codes to suit those
schemes.
Finally, Num Lock, Caps Lock and
Scroll Lock key presses are detected and internal flags set so that their
states can be taken into account when
decoding subsequent keys. A message is also sent back to the keyboard
to update the respective status LEDs.
The mouse version of the firmware
is somewhat simpler but works similarly. A function is called each time
Australia’s electronics magazine
the mouse is moved or a button is
clicked (or released) and it then formats and sends the corresponding serial data to the microcontroller.
Every time data is sent to the serial port, the yellow LED is switched
on and a timer is started. The yellow
LED is switched off after it has been
on for 50ms, thus giving the effect of
flashing briefly for each keystroke or
mouse movement/clips.
Construction
The USB Keyboard & Mouse Adaptor is built on a compact PCB measuring 64mm x 44mm, which is coded
24311181. Use the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.2, as a guide during construction.
The following instructions assume
you have the board orientated with
the USB socket on the right and the
single row header pins on the left, as
shown in Fig.2.
There aren’t many options that need
to be considered when building this
board. If you have a pre-programmed
microcontroller, you can omit CON1,
the ICSP programming header. It can
always be installed later if necessary.
Start by fitting the resistors where
shown. One is a 10ktype so don’t
get it mixed up with the others. If you
have any doubt about the markings
(they look similar), check the resistances with a multimeter.
D1 is the only diode, and it must be
installed with its cathode band facing
to the right. If you have a low profile
HC49US crystal for X1, install it next,
as it will probably sit lower than its
accompanying capacitors.
Next on the list is the microcontroller, IC1. You can either solder it directly to the board or solder a socket and
plug it in. The socket makes it easier
to swap the chip but sockets can fail
over time due to oxidisation, so it’s up
to you whether to use one.
Regardless, make sure you solder
siliconchip.com.au
the part in with the correct orientation, ie, the pin 1 dot/notch towards
the top of the board.
The tantalum capacitor is next. It is
polarised and will have a “+” marked
on its body to indicate the positive
lead, which should also be longer than
the other. Make sure this lead goes into
the pad marked with a “+” sign on the
PCB. The ceramic capacitors can be fitted next. They are not polarised and
can be installed either way.
Follow with the three regular electrolytic capacitors. Their longer lead
is positive and the stripe on the can
indicates the negative lead. The positive lead must be soldered to the pad
marked with a “+” sign on the PCB.
Note that one of the electrolytic capacitors is orientated differently than the
others (the one with the more widely
spaced pads).
Fit REG1 next. Its legs will need to
be cranked outwards and then down
to match the PCB footprint. Take care
to mount it with the orientation shown
in Fig.2.
The LEDs can now be installed.
You can push them all the way down
onto the board as we did, or bend their
leads so that they face to the side, depending on how you are planning to
use the board. Regardless, make sure
that their anode (longer) lead goes
to the pad on the left, away from the
nearest edge of the board.
The various connectors and jumper
headers can be mounted next. CON2
will only fit one way, with the socket
opening projecting out over the edge
of the PCB. Ensure it is flush before
soldering its pins.
As mentioned earlier, CON1 is only
needed if your PIC is not yet programmed. You can use a vertical or
right-angle header for both CON1 and
CON3. If your crystal is a full-height
type, now would be a good time to
solder it in place.
If you fitted a socket for IC1 earlier,
straighten the IC pins before plugging
it into the socket, ensuring that none
of the legs fold up under it and that
its pin 1 dot/notch lines up with the
notch on the socket, as shown in Fig.2.
Programming IC1
If you have a pre-programmed PIC,
you don’t need to worry about programming it and you can proceed to
the next section for testing.
Note that if you’re using a PICkit
4 to program the chip (which is a bit
wider than a PICkit 3), when you plug
it into CON1, it may touch the pins of
CON3. You should still be able to get
a good enough connection to program
IC1 despite this.
One potential solution would be
to install a vertical header for CON1
and a horizontal header for CON3, or
leave CON3 off the board until you’ve
programmed IC1.
Microchip’s free MPLAB X IDE or
IPE software can be used with a PICkit 3 or PICkit 4 to load the firmware
into the microcontroller. Alternatively, you could build the Microbridge
programmer, described in our May
2017 issue (see siliconchip.com.au/
Fig.3: this is the settings screen of the USB Keyboard &
Mouse Adaptor, when programmed with the firmware
suitable for interfacing with keyboards. If you have set a
very low baud rate, it may take a few seconds for this to be
displayed. The currently selected parameters are shown
below the menu.
siliconchip.com.au
Article/10648).
If you don’t have a USB/Serial converter (or something similar) to use
for testing, then you can use a Microbridge, as this can act as a USB/
Serial converter as well as a PIC32
programmer.
Connect your programmer of choice
to CON1, ensuring that the arrowed
pin (pin 1) on the programmer aligns
with the arrowed pin on the PCB. If
using the MPLAB X IPE, choose the
PIC32MX270F256B micro from the
list, and ensure that the “Power target
circuit from tool” option is selected.
Open the HEX file (available for
download from the S ILICON C HIP
website) and then press the Program
button. Make sure you are using the
appropriate HEX file depending on
whether you are programming the
device to operate with a keyboard
or mouse; they have a different file
name suffix.
Check the progress display at the
bottom of the window to ensure that
the firmware upload is successful.
The red LED should then illuminate, indicating that the USB Keyboard & Mouse Adaptor is waiting for
a keyboard or mouse to be connected.
Testing
For initial testing and familiarisation with how the USB Keyboard &
Mouse Adaptor works, we recommend that you connect it to a PC using
a USB/Serial converter, eg, one based
on the CP2102 chip. Four wires need
to be connected to CON3: 5V, GND
Fig.4: similarly, the settings screen shown when using the
Adaptor in mouse mode. The default baud rate in this mode
is lower (1200) for compatibility with the Microsoft Serial
Mouse protocol but you can change it if necessary. Options
4, 5 & 6 allow you to select between the three different data
formats, with each mode having different capabilities – see
Tables 2-4 for details.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 73
Table 2 – Microsoft Serial Mouse data format
Byte
Bit 7
Bit 6
Bit 5
0
1
1
Left
button
1
1
0
X5
2
1
0
Y5
Bit 4
Right
button
X4
Y4
Bit 3
Y7
Bit 2
Y6
Bit 1
X7
Bit 0
X6
X3
Y3
X2
Y2
X1
Y1
X0
Y
Table 3 – 8-bit Mouse data format
Byte
Bit 7
Bit 6
0
1
Left
button
1
0
X6
2
0
Y6
Bit 5
Right
button
X5
Y5
Bit 4
Bit 3
Middle
Y8
button
X4
X3
Y4
Y3
Bit 2
Y7
Bit 1
X8
Bit 0
X7
X2
Y2
X1
Y1
X0
Y0
Bit 1
0
Bit 0
0
Table 4 – CSV Mouse data format
Each entry has the form: Buttons,delta x,delta y,delta z<CR><LF>
Where Buttons is an 8-bit value:
Bit 7
Left
Button
Bit 6
Right
Button
Bit 5
Middle
Button
Bit 4
Button
4
Bit 3
Button
5
Bit 2
0
These tables show the three data formats available when using the mouse
version of the firmware. The Microsoft Serial Mouse data format is identical
to that used on the Microsoft Mouse 2.0 (from 1985). How’s that for backward
compatibility!
and the two serial data lines. We have
used arrows to indicate the data flow
of the two serial data lines, as TX and
RX markings are often ambiguous.
Connect the RX line on the USB/
serial adaptor to the pin with the arrow that’s pointing towards the edge
of the PCB, and the TX line to the pin
with the arrow that’s pointing into
the middle of the PCB. Then plug the
USB/Serial adapter module into a
computer. The red LED on the board
should light up.
Now plug a USB keyboard or mouse
(or wireless keyboard/mouse dongle) into the socket on the PCB. After
around a second, the red LED should go
out and the green LED should turn on.
If you do not get the green LED
lighting up, then check the construction and component values. Also,
make sure that you have loaded the
keyboard firmware if you are using a
keyboard, and the mouse firmware if
you are using a mouse.
If all is well, open up the serial terminal program of choice (eg, PuTTY,
TeraTerm Pro and the Arduino Serial
Monitor all are suitable) and set the
baud rate to 9600 (for the keyboard
version) or 1200 (for the mouse version).
74
Silicon Chip
Now type on the keyboard or move
the mouse. You should see data appear
in the serial console.
For the keyboard version, if you
press letter keys, you should see the
corresponding letter. In the default
mouse mode, the data which appears
will probably look like gibberish. You
may wish to change it to CSV mode,
at least temporarily, to get more legible data (the procedure is described
below).
If you are using the Arduino Serial
monitor and the keyboard firmware,
note that you may not get the usual
effect of the Backspace key; on our
system, it produced a black rectangle rather than deleting the previous
character.
Changing the settings
On your computer, use the serial terminal program to send a “~” character
to the device. On the Arduino Serial
Monitor, you may need to press Enter after typing this, to send the data.
The settings menu as seen in Fig.3
(for keyboards) or Fig.4 (for mouses)
should appear in the terminal, and the
yellow LED on the unit will light up
solid to indicate that you are in settings mode.
Australia’s electronics magazine
You can change most of the settings
with single keystrokes. The action is
confirmed on the terminal and the
menu is re-displayed with the new
settings shown. These settings are not
active until the “X” key is pressed to
activate them.
They can be saved to flash with the
“S” command, in which case they
will become active the next time the
device restarts and the settings are
loaded from flash.
The purpose of most of the settings
should be intuitive. If you change the
baud rate, you will need to also change
your terminal program’s baud rate after pressing “X”.
The baud rate can be set to pratically
any value between 100 and 1,000,000,
with a few common values such as
9600, 38,400 and 115,200 available
directly from the menu.
Serial data is always sent in the
standard 8N1 (8 data bits, no parity,
1 stop bit) format.
As mentioned earlier, the default
baud rate in keyboard mode is 9600,
as this can easily be handled by a software serial port and it’s more than fast
enough for typing.
The default baud rate in mouse
mode is 1200 because that is what is
used by default in the Microsoft Serial Mouse protocol and again, it’s fast
enough in most cases. But you could
bump it up to 9600 baud or higher, if
required for your application.
If you change the keyboard mode
to VT100 emulation and set your terminal emulator to VT100 mode, you
should be able to use the arrow keys
on the keyboard to move the cursor
around the terminal and type text in
various locations. That will confirm
that VT100 mode is operating correctly.
Note that instead of sending a “~”
character, you can also get into the
settings menu by inserting JP1. And if
you change the settings and manage to
get the device into a weird mode (eg,
an unknown baud rate), you can temporarily switch it back to the default
settings by inserting JP2.
Removing JP2 and power cycling
the unit will revert it back to whatever
configuration you last saved.
To permanently revert the settings
back to the default (you can change
them again later), place a shorting
block on the JP3 header and cycle
power to the unit. You can then remove the shorting block.
siliconchip.com.au
The default configuration values will have been written
to flash. And once you have set up the unit the way you
need it, you can place a shorting block on JP4 to prevent
accidental configuration changes.
Parts list – USB Micro Keyboard
and Mouse Interface
Mouse-specific settings
1 double-sided PCB, 64mm x 44mm, coded 24311181
1 5-pin vertical or right-angle header (CON1)
1 USB Type-A socket (CON2)
1 4-pin vertical or right-angle header (CON3)
1 2x4 pin header (JP1-JP4)
1 jumper shunt (JP1 or JP2 or JP3 or JP4)
1 16MHz HC-49/U or HC-49/US crystal (X1)
Besides the three possible modes described above, there
are two additional mouse-specific settings: the DPI Divisor
(movement scaling factor) and Update Interval.
The internal mouse movement pixel count is divided by
the DPI Divisor before being sent to the serial port. Some
mouses report movement values which overflow some of
the data formats, so this setting provides a way of scaling
the movement values down to a suitable range.
You may also find that specific scaling values make it
simpler to handle mouse movements in your micro firmware.
The Update Interval is specified in milliseconds. It is
the minimum interval between movement updates; button
press or release events are reported immediately.
The USB interface can operate at up to 125Hz, ie, 8ms
between updates. If your application doesn’t need such
a high update rate or just can’t handle it, you can use the
update rate setting to increase the interval. We found that
100ms (giving 10Hz updates) was adequate for most micro-based applications.
Connecting it to your target micro
When connecting the USB Keyboard and Mouse Adaptor to a micro, you usually only need to run three wires.
The serial receive line (next to GND on CON3) does not
normally need to be connected.
If you’re using an Arduino Uno or similar device, with
only one hardware serial port that’s already used for debugging/programming, we suggest that you configure a
receive-only software serial port to connect to each Keyboard/Mouse Adaptor.
These are usually limited in baud rate because they use
too many CPU cycles at higher baud rates. But 9600 baud
is fast enough for this application and it will typically only
take up a single digital I/O pin.
Ensure that the device you are connecting to has a stable 5V supply which can provide enough power to run
the connected keyboard or mouse.
If your micro was already set up to receive data via a serial terminal, you can use the Keyboard Adaptor in 7-bit
ASCII mode and simply wire it up to that terminal. You
should not need to make any changes to enter commands.
Note that you may not be able to feed data directly into
the serial console of a micro board if that serial port is permanently wired to a USB/Serial converter chip.
That chip may override any data coming from the Adaptor.
In that case, you will need to use a separate serial port
(hardware-based or software-based) to handle the data.
Linux terminal consoles can work in VT100 compatible
mode. In the case of small single board computers such
as the Raspberry Pi, the console is often broken out to a
physical UART on the GPIO header.
So the USB Keyboard and Mouse Adaptor can be directly connected there and set up in VT100 mode, to drive
the console directly.
Similarly, if you are using the Keyboard Adaptor with
siliconchip.com.au
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP (IC1), programmed with
2431118K.HEX (for use with a keyboard) or
2431118M.HEX (for use with a mouse)
1 1N5819 schottky diode (D1)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 3mm yellow LED (LED2)
1 3mm green LED (LED3)
1 MCP1700-3.3 3.3V linear regulator, TO-92 package (REG1)
Capacitors
3 10µF 16V electrolytic
1 47µF 6V tantalum
2 22pF ceramic
Resistors (1/4W or 1/2W 1% metal film)
1 10k
5 1k
a Micromite, you may need to do nothing more than connect it up to the serial console and configure the Adaptor
for the correct baud rate and terminal mode.
If you are using the Micromite Plus Explore 100 with
an SSD1963-based 5-inch (or larger) LCD panel, you will
then have a complete stand-alone system, with console text
displayed on the LCD and updated via the USB keyboard.
We suggest you use VT100 mode in this case. The Explore 100 does already have a keyboard connector, but
it’s the ancient PS/2 type; suitable keyboards are getting
hard to find.
Handling mouse and keyboard data in your
software
In many cases, we expect that you will want to write
specific software to interpret key presses, and this will almost certainly be the case if you are using a mouse. You
will therefore need to set up one or more serial ports with
the correct baud rate, wire up the board(s) to their receive
pins, and then periodically check to see whether data has
been received on those ports.
When data is received, your program will need to decide what action to take.
For example, it could compare the received key codes
to a list of expected codes and execute a different function depending on which key is pressed.
Since the mouse data is more tricky to interpret than
keyboard data, we have written a sample Arduino sketch
to read and decode the mouse data. You can download it
from the SILICON CHIP website, in the same download package as the firmware.
If you plan to decode the mouse data yourself, the three
data format are explained in Tables 2-4.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 75
1179
DEAL OF THE MONTH!
$
SAVE $420
Build It Yourself Electronics Centre®
Catalogue
Clearout!
S 9905C
Install your own CCTV system & save $$$
Great size for a small business or family home. Simply add a hard drive (see right) and plug
it in! Each pack includes: • H.264 digital video recorder 1080p recording at 25fps on all
channels • Pro grade 4MP resolution cameras • 20m BNC & power combo leads • Power
splitter lead • Power supply • All cameras are weatherproof
Help us clear the decks for the new 2019-20
catalogue arriving next month.
NEW RELEASES...
64x32 RGB
LED Panel
» WD® CCTV HARD DRIVES TO SUIT:
1TB $110 (D 5514), 2TB $159 (D 5516).
SAVE $40
SAVE $50
Make your
own full
colour sign
Great for
summer
camping!
These linkable panels are
ideal for making highly
visible scrolling signs,
information readouts, clocks
and timers. Readable up
to 52m away! 5mm pitch
LEDs. 384x192mm.
99
$
159
$
Z 6518
Just
16mm
thick!
NEW
MODEL!
Throw
away your
old jumper
leads!
M 8195A
M 8199
199
$
Compact go
anywhere power station
Lithium-Ion Car Jump Starter
Suits 12V battery vehicles. 20000mAh rated battery
provides up to 1000A peak output when cranking. Two
USB ports are provided for charging devices (like a giant
battery bank!). It also has a super bright 1W LED torch in
built. • 178L x 84W x 45Dmm.
This multi-function portable solar generator/42,000mAh
battery bank is ideal for outdoor activities. Power 240V AC
appliances while you’re out in the sticks! Plus 2.1mm DC
power and USB charging outputs.
NEW!
12V Battery
Maintainer
84
$
99
M 8627B
39.95
$
.95
$
Space Saver
Multimeter
Q 1064
Not much bigger than your average
mobile phone, this auto ranging meter
saves space in your tool box. Offers
true RMS accuracy with relative mode
and non-contact AC detection.
Q 1134A
Auto Ranging True
RMS Meter
With non-contact AC voltage
detection in-built! An affordable
auto ranging meter with True
RMS accuracy for AC voltages.
Plus temperature measurement!
(probe included).
Laptop & USB
Car Charger
SAVE 33%
20
$
Simply plugs into a car accessory socket. Up to
90W power output. Includes 9 laptop adaptors see web for compatability list.
Provides a trickle
of power to your
car, caravan or
boat battery to
keep it topped
up when parked
for long periods.
355x125mm
panel size. Suits
12V batteries only.
N 0700
17.95
$
M 8623B
USB Car Charger
With Readout
Max 3.1A USB charging.
Displays battery voltage &
output current.
S 2682
149
$
Weather
& vandal
resistant!
S 5377
165
$
Windscreen
or air vent
mount
44.95
$
D 2207
Vandal Resistant RFID
Entryway Keypad
Phone Holder with
Wireless Charging
Designed to control a door strike
for home or business security
installations. In-built proximity EM
card reader & door bell. IP54 rated.
Simply place your phone in the
holder to keep it topped up whilst
you’re driving! Great for Uber
drivers or road reps.
Multi-Stage Weatherproof
Vehicle Battery Chargers
SAVE 22%
99
$195
$
Each model utilises a microprocessor to
ensure your battery is maintained in tip-top M 8534 6/12V 4.5A 7 Stage
condition whenever you need it. Helps
to extend battery service life. Suitable for
permanent connection. Great for caravans
& seldom used vehicles.
M 8536 12V 10A 10 Stage
See back page for store locations or visit: www.altronics.com.au/storelocations
NEW!
Dual 12V Car Battery Isolator Kit
Provides everything you need to wire up a secondary battery in your vehicle - vital for powering
appliances at campsites, inverters etc, and
isolating the primary battery so you have enough
juice to start your car! Instructions included.
Sale pricing ends February 28th 2019.
NEED PA GEAR FOR EVENTS OR FUNCTIONS?
WE ARE THE PA SPECIALISTS!
C 7182C
Okayo® Makes Portable
Event Sound Easy!
279
Tuned for superior
vocal performance
& clarity.
$
The new PA of choice for schools, wedding celebrants
Rear
and places of worship. This robust, lightweight 60W PA
system is the perfect portable sound solution with superb
vocal reproduction. The high efficiency design provides 4
hours of use without the need for mains power! Works with
wired or UHF wireless microphone. Includes UHF wireless
mic receiver & CD/MP3 audio player. 230D x 300W x
470Hmm. Protect your investment with a heavy duty
cover, C 7186 $41.95.
SAVE $120
C 0857
Opus One® 8” Ceiling Speakers
999
$
Featuring woven carbon fibre woofer & titanium dome
tweeter for the ultimate in home theatre response! • Bass
& treble control switches • Vented magnets • Easy fliplock installation • Aluminium grilles
PACK PRICE!
WIRELESS MIC PACKAGE:
C 0866
Includes your choice of handheld microphone or
lavalier beltpack (with mic). Total saving of $354!
Ideal for clubs &
organisations.
199
$
C 8884
UHF Wireless Microphone Pack
WOW, a pro grade package with two handheld transmitters
for under $200! Offers up to 60m range line of sight in ideal
conditions. Offers wireless freedom without sacrificing speech
quality. XLR/6.35mm output. Requires 4xAA batteries (lithium
AA 2pk $4.95ea S 4906).
229
$
Entertainers
Mic
One of our all
time best selling
units, with superb
reproduction
and outstanding
value. Diecast
body. Includes
6m XLR cable.
SAVE $120
33
$
99
A 2620
Portable Micro Mixer
Powered by 9V battery or
plugpack (M 8923 $17.95) this
tiny mixer is perfect for small
productions. Mixes four 6.35mm
mics.
SAVE $20
$
Opus One® 8” Wall Speakers
SAVE 22%
C 0392
PLUS BONUS BACKBOXES VALUED AT $45! (C0869)
Featuring woven carbon fibre woofer & titanium dome
tweeter for the ultimate in home theatre response! • Bass
& treble control switches • Vented magnets • Easy fliplock installation • Aluminium grilles
SAVE $20
79
$
C 0844
SAVE 23%
A 0920
42
$
A 1109A
Great for
home
recording!
A 2548
129
$
4 Channel USB Mixer
With Equaliser & Effects.
Instant Bluetooth®
audio for any amplifier!
Pairs with your phone & stream instantly
to your existing audio system. Includes
3.5mm lead. Buy P 6020 1.5m lead ($6)
to hook up to RCA input on most amps.
Want to get into recording podcasts, voice
overs or making your own samples? This mini
USB mixer connects directly to your PC or
Mac, takes up very little desk space and is
powered directly from USB - making it highly
portable. Includes 3 band EQ and effects.
124W x 157D x 40Hmm.
199
$
A 4201
NEW!
Wireless Infra-Red Repeater
Weatherproof 6x9”
Vehicle Speakers
64
$
HALF PRICE!
Maintenance free outdoor sound. These weatherproof
6x9” speakers are designed for long life in marine or
tropical areas. Also great for caravans. 30W RMS. 4Ω.
Use your remote control up to 200m
away (line of sight) from your equipment.
Perfect for controlling your AV system
from the patio or entertaining area.
Includes plugpacks, IR emitter & receiver.
D 2815
79
$
SAVE 25%
All your home
entertainment in one box.
26
$
X 0604A
Bluetooth FM Audio Player
Transmits bluetooth audio from your phone
(music, phone calls etc) to your cars FM
radio. Plus it’s also a dual USB charger!
A 3216A
Long Distance
HDMI Sender
SAVE 10%
125
$
As used by hundreds of commercial
AV installs! Send 1080p from a HDMI
source up to 50m over Cat5e/6 UTP.
Includes TX, RX & plugpacks.
SAVE $30
Stream direct to your TV from your favourite services
such as Netflix, YouTube and more! Capable of streaming
stunning 4K videos <at> 60fps! Requires 2A USB power
supply. Pair it with our A 0981 wireless keyboard/trackpad
for $29.95.
79
$
SAVE $40
SAVE 15%
75
$
Bluetooth® 2x50W Amp
Stream audio directly from your device to
yourspeakers in the study or entertaining
area. 3.5mm and RCA inputs. Class D design.
Internal headphone amplifier.
A 2710
USB Background Music Player
Simply plug in a USB stick, connect the RCA
output to your amplifier & press play! It even
automatically loops the music. Requires
12VDC plugpack M9273A $16.95.
SAVE 20%
55
$
D 2359
USB C to HDMI Adaptor
Provides USB A & HDMI output up to
4K <at> 60Hz for USB C devices.
Shop online 24/7 <at> www.altronics.com.au
5.8GHz Wireless AV Sender
S 9359
Transmit stereo audio & composite video without cables
from room to room. 30m range. IR sender built in.
Includes transmitter, receiver & plugpacks.
1300 797 007
Do-It-All
Multimeter
Super-Tough
DMM. Built like
a tank!
With in-built AC mains
detection.
This is one of the best
DMMs we have evaluated
when it comes to build
quality and feature set.
Its perfect for the serious
electronics enthusiast,
electrical tradesperson or
service tech. 3.75 digit
display features a LCD
bargraph and helpful mode
indicators. Includes carry
case, temp probe, insulated
test leads and 9V battery.
99
$
169
$
This new multimeter is
built tough with water
and dust resistance, plus
a impact resistant case
for the rough and tumble
of every day use in the
field. Auto ranging design
offers a feature list as long
as your arm with a clear
large digit backlit display.
Includes carry case
& test leads. See web for
full spec list.
SAVE
$26
149
$
Q 1068
T 2444A
SAVE $66
away those soldering fumes!
SAVE Whisk
#1 choice for schools! This 60W soldering station has a powerful in-built
$50 fume exhaust fan which sucks away the smoke when soldering. The active
Micron® Combo Soldering
& Vacuum Desoldering Station
Save space on your bench with this
top performing 60W soldering iron
and 90W vacuum desoldering station.
Removes a 16 pin through hole IC
in 30 seconds! Sucks molten solder
away from components & pads in no
time and is easily cleaned. 160°
to 480°C adjustable. Includes
0.2mm soldering tip and three
desoldering tips.
SAVE $45
350
$
139
T 2052
230
SAVE $59
$
X 4306
TOP WORKBENCH DEALS
FOR DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.
129
$
Q 2120
Get a close up view with a
desktop microscope
This high resolution 12 megapixel
200x USB micrscope allows close
up inspection of just about
anything! USB PC interface,
plus HDMI output for monitor
connection. 220x magnification
with 10-50mm focal length.
In-built 2.4” LCD.
SAVE $60
$
filter helps to reduce airborne pollutants in your workshop. Durable metal
construction.
Q 1069
Q 0966
40
$
Q 1289
SAVE $80
119
$
SAVE
$60
Battery Health Analyser
AC/DC Clamp Meter
Detects and analyses voltage, cold
cranking amperes, resistance and
cell condition in 12V lead acid cells.
Easy connection and on screen
menu driven operation. Ideal for
vehicle servicing or checking 12V
SLA cells in battery backup systems.
Accurately measures AC
or DC current to a 600A!
Includes True RMS AC
measurement, resistance,
temperature, capacitance,
zero & hold functions - All
supplied with carry case &
test leads.
Easy data
cable testing.
Measures cable length,
traces cable location,
finds cable breakages
& provides PoE/ping
testing. Provides a
suite of test functions
for comms/CCTV
installers with easy
on-screen adjustments.
It even logs readings to
Micro SD card
(16GB D 0328
$13.95).
Accurate Digital Vernier Calipers
Twin laser beams for precise
measurement between
-50°C and 1050°C with
30:1 optical resolution.
Adjustable emmisivity to
cater for different surfaces. It
even connects to an external
probe. 2% accuracy.
315
T 2937A
NEW!
12
$
.50
SUPER
HANDY!
Mini Hot Melt Glue Gun
Easy to use hot glue gun for crafts and hobbies.
12pk glue sticks $4.90 (T 2938A)
Iroda® Mini
Blow Torch
A 1300°C blow torch
with adjustable gas
feed for a variety of
tasks such as brazing
and model making.
Refill with Iroda gas
T 2451 $8.50.
T 2486
NEW!
39.95
$
Network
Cable
Tracer
NEW!
Q 1346
D 3009
49.95
$
PoE Network Tester
SAVE $44
T 2247A
Precision measuring with ease! 150mm length, suitable for measuring internal,
external and depth dimensions. 0.01mm, 0.0005” and 1/128th” display.
Measure
temperature
without touching.
$
SAVE 27%
Test live ethernet cabling for data and power.
Works with any 802.3af/at ports/cabling. Ideal
for data/comms installers.
A must have for
IT technicians!
Combines a cable
tracer & tester in
one unit. Injects
an audible signal
down the line,
making it easy
to find specific
lead. Requires 3
x AA and 1 x 9V
batteries.
89
$
Q 1341
SAVE $20
Shop online 24/7 <at> www.altronics.com.au
DESIGN & BUILD YOUR OWN GADGETS...
169
$
Z 6516 7” 1024x600
139
NEW!
45
$
Z 6514 7” 800x600
99.95
$
Z 6513 5” 800x480
Large Touchscreens For Raspberry Pi
®
• Great for integrated projects, mini game consoles, information stands, mini PCs
etc • Works with raspbian & ubuntu • Easy HDMI connection. Z 6302C Raspberry
Pi to suit (Model 3B+) $75.
Power
your Pi
over PoE!
NEW!
Ethernet IoT Arduino
Development Board
SAVE 15%
Z 6467
Connect your Arduino design to the internet-ofthings with this handy W5500 ethernet board with
atmega328p on board. Fully compatible with UNO
with integrated USB download & micro SD card slot.
44
USB PoE Splitter
24.95
NEW!
With Wi-Fi for easy plug and play connected projects.
GPIO breakout pins, full USB-serial interface and preflashed NodeMCU in one compact package!
• Power a micro USB device over
802.3af PoE. • Eliminates the need
for a power supply at the end of the
cable run. • 5V 2.4A max.
Allows you to power your Pi over ethernet.
Great for remote IoT applications.
(Model 3 B+ only).
27
$
SAVE 24%
The Bluno Nano offers a compact
atmega328p platform with in-built
Bluetooth 4.0 low energy for easy
connectivity. Just 53x19mm in size - great
for portable designs.
Z 6510
SAVE 27%
2.8” Touch Arduino UNO Shield
A 240x320px touchscreen shield for Arduino
utilising the ILI9325 chipset. 3.3V input.
12
SAVE 25%
K 9650
10
$
VIC
25
$
Z 6527
SAVE 15%
» Auburn: 15 Short St
QLD
45
$
15
$
HAT board with soldermasked 0.1” holes
and stackable header so you dont lose
access to the GPIO. Pi sold separately.
SAVE 35%
Z 6347
ESP32 Wi-Fi
Bluetooth/BLE Module
Provides 2.4GHz Wi-Fi and bluetooth
on board. Requires SMD soldering
for assembly.
10
$
SAVE 33%
79
$
SAVE $40
Z 6391
Z 6311
37 In 1 Arduino Sensor Kit
A huge array of sensors for building into your next
project design. See website for complete listing.
3 Axis Digital
Compass
Converts magnetic field to a
differential voltage for heading information. 3-5V input.
NSW
A 480x320 display screen shield for the Mega
utilising the ILI9481 chipset. 5V/3.3V input.
SAVE 40%
ProtoHAT for Raspberry Pi
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
03 9549 2188
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave NEW! 03 9549 2121
3.2” TFT Arduino Mega Shield
SAVE 15%
®
15.50
$
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Perfect for Arduino based access
control, security and automation
designs, this handy wallplate has a
atmega328p chip and is suitable for
use with standard shields.
Great for moving UNO based designs &
code into e-textile projects.
Z 6307
39
$
.95
T 3132
10ml Tube
45
SAVE 24%
$
ATMega328P Lilypad Board
T 3133
50ml Jar
$
Arduino Keypad Plate
Z 6349
Z 6430
The Pi-Cap allows the Raspberry Pi to interface to the physical
adding precise capacitive touch, proximity sensing and high
quality audio to your Pi.
Draw real circuits on
almost any surface!
Great for repairs or
experimenting.
50
Nano Arduino Bluetooth Board
Pi-Cap For Raspberry Pi®
Bare
Conductive® Paint
$
Z 6532
50
Z 6332
U-Blox Neo-6M GPS Shield
Add GPS positioning to a Arduino project. 3.3/5V
logic level. Includes 28dB active antenna. 3.3/5V
input, standard shield dimensions/pin outs.
Fix
Arduinos
Fast!
Z 6540
25
$
SAVE 24%
Arduino USB Programmer
Great for reprogramming your own atmega chips.
Includes 6 and 10 pin cables.
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
02 8748 5388
07 3441 2810
SA
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd NEW!
08 6208 8010
WA
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
Or find a local reseller at:
www.altronics.com.au/resellers
B 0092
$
Z 6425
Save % Makes projects interactive. Create sensors with the
Touch Board’s 12 electrodes and trigger sounds through
its MP3 player. Works with croc clips, copper tape, solder,
e-textiles and conductive paint (see below).
$
NodeMCU ESP8266 Board
Raspberry Pi POE Hat
Z 6435
Touch Board With Arduino
SAVE 24%
19.95
$
S 9265
SAVE 25%
$
Z 6381
.95
88
$
$
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance.
Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual
resellers may vary from our catalogue.
Sale Ends February 28th 2019
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
© Altronics 2019. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid
until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and
exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight
rates.
BUILD-IT-YOURSELF
FM
AM
WITH and a
Touchscreen
Interface
using an Explore100
By Duraid Madina and Nicholas Vinen
L
ast month’s article had all the
details on this radio’s circuit design and an explanation of how
it works. All the circuitry shown last
month is hosted on a single, compact
board as shown here.
Most of the components are surfacemounting types; many of them are only
available as SMDs so we decided that
Last month, we introduced our
new digital radio design which is
a DIY world-first: a DAB+ radio
which will also tune into FM and
AM broadcasts. It has a slew of
excellent features such as a 5-inch
colour touch-screen interface,
built-in stereo headphone and
speaker amplifiers, digital audio
outputs and infrared remote control.
Let’s start building it!
we might as well go the “whole hog”
and use them extensively.
As we explained last month, where
possible, we’ve chosen larger and easier-to-solder components where possible, so anyone with a bit of practice soldering SMDs should be able
to manage it.
And we also explained that we are
going to offer PCBs with the trickiest
(RF) parts pre-soldered. We are in the
process of sourcing the components to
build those and we’ll have more details on how you can purchase those
next month (or you can check our online shop to see when they become
available).
We strongly suggest that if you want
The DAB+/FM/AM Tuner uses the Micromite Plus Explore 100
module as its controller, station selector, volume setting and so on. This touch-screen module is perfect
for the task and also saves a bewildering array of switches and knobs! See the Micromite Plus Explore 100 articles
in September and October 2016 – siliconchip.com.au/Series/304
80
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A WORLD-FIRST DIY PROJECT FROM SILICON CHIP!
to build this radio but are not comfortable working with fine-pitch SMDs,
you start with the partially pre-assembled board. It will make your life so
much easier.
Practically speaking, if you’ve never soldered any SMDs before, you
should probably start with a simpler
project first.
Once you’re more comfortable working with them, you can move onto
this one.
You may even want to experiment
with soldering some cheap SMDs onto
scrap board to gain some experience
before tackling this one!
Sourcing the parts
As well as sourcing the PCB and
parts for the radio board described
here, if you don’t already have one,
you will also need to purchase or build
a Micromite Explore 100 module.
You will also need to source a 5-inch
colour touchscreen to suit. They are
available from a variety of sources including ebay and AliExpress.
Make sure you get the common version with a 40-pin header on the righthand side of the screen. The LCD PCB
is usually blue.
One option for building the Explore 100 is to purchase a short-form
kit from our online shop, Cat SC3834
(siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/3834).
It includes everything you need to
build the Explore 100 except for the
LCD screen.
There are a few SMDs on that board,
including the 100-pin PIC32 processor.
But they are not especially difficult to
solder, at least, compared to the 48-pin
QFN radio chip.
Then solder the 10µF SMD capacitor
in place, near IC1.
Next, install the through-hole components are shown on the PCB silkscreen printing. These consist of nine
resistors, 13 ceramic capacitors, two
electrolytic capacitors, three LEDs,
one crystal, one transistor, one regulator, one tactile switch and numerous
connectors.
The LED cathodes (shorter leads)
go into the holes nearest the adjacent
PCB edge.
When fitting the connectors, make
sure that CON6 and CON9 are fitted
to the underside. You don’t need to fit
CON1, CON4, CON5, CON7, CON10,
CON13, CON14 or the headers for the
real-time clock. But if your kit comes
with those parts, it won’t hurt to install them anyway.
We do recommend that you fit JP1
as it will aid in testing.
If you haven’t used a pre-programmed PIC32 then the next step is
to program it using a PICkit 3 or 4 (or
similar) in-circuit serial programming
(ICSP) tool.
This is done via 6-pin header CON3.
Then we suggest you test the board to
make sure it’s working before fitting
the LCD panel.
The easiest way to do this is to connect a USB/serial adaptor to CON6
and then open a terminal emulator,
set to the default baud rate of 38,400.
Make sure the correct COM port for
your USB/serial adaptor is selected and then wire up its TX, RX and
GND pins to the appropriate pins on
CON6, making sure to wire TX to RX
and vice versa.
To power the unit, if your USB/serial adaptor has a 5V output, you can
wire this to the bottom-most terminal of JP1 (if fitted). Alternatively, fit
a jumper to JP1 and plug a mini USB
cable from your PC to CON2.
As soon as the unit has powered
up, you should see the Micromite’s
banner appear on your terminal emulator. If you don’t, disconnect power
and re-check your wiring and COM
port selection.
Typical power consumption for the
Explore 100 sans screen is around
100mA (at 5V). If yours is significantly under or over this, something
is wrong, so check the PCB carefully
for soldering defects and misplaced
components.
Assuming you’ve had success, remove power and plug the LCD screen
into CON10, attaching it with four
12mm tapped spacers and eight machine screws.
You will then need to power it up
and run the following commands on
the console, to set up and test the LCD.
Power consumption should jump to
several hundred milliamps.
OPTION LCDPANEL SSD1963_5,
LANDSCAPE, 48
OPTION TOUCH 1, 40, 39
OPTION SDCARD 52, 53, 17
GUI TEST LCDPANEL
You should now see coloured circles
Building and testing
the Explore 100
The circuit details of the Explore
100 module were published in the
September 2016 issue of Silicon Chip
while the construction details were
given in the October 2016 issue (see
siliconchip.com.au/Series/304). We
won’t repeat them here; however, if
you don’t have that issue, the process
is relatively straightforward.
Briefly, you need to fit SMDs IC1
and Q1 first, being very careful to orientate and align them correctly and
ensure that all the fillets are properly formed and no pins are shorted.
siliconchip.com.au
As an example, here’s one source of 5-inch LCD Touchscreens we found on
AliExpress. They’re also available on ebay and from several other suppliers.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 81
TX1
47pF
47nF
4.7 F
4.7 F
1
1
33pF
18nH
10nF
1 F
TVS3
120nH
FB3
T1
10k
(ANTENNA 1 )
L4
120nH
/FM)
CON6
EXTERNAL
AM LOOP
ANTENNA
CON4
100nF
X2 12MHz
CON7 (DAB+
IC3
1 F
8.2pF
8.2pF
47pF
4.7 F
47nF
47
47pF
CON9
SCK
MISO
MOSI
MMpin33
COM2T
COM2R
COM3T
COM3R
IC1
Si4689
22nH
10 F
4
2
6
8
10
10 F
1
9
7
5
3
15
13
33
31
35
11
12
14
16
20
18
24
28
26
22
1
15pF
10 F
TOSLINK
OUT
SC
220
IC7
74HC14
CON1
15pF
IC2
WM8804
110
30
34
6.8nF
100nF
S/PDIF
OUT
32
36
38
40
680
CON8
+5V
+3.3V
MMpin34
MMpin35
AGND
EXTRAUD
EXTLAUD
DGND
VHF
INPUT
X1 19.2MHz
47nF
47pF
21.5T
2.2k
1 F
100k
12pF 12pF
IC4
PAM8407
2.2k
47
47 F
47 F
150pF
10k
FB1
FB2
4.7 F
47nF
10k
2.2k
2.2k
1k 2.2k
10k
680
IC6
74HC4052
47
47 F
10k
1 F
REG1
10 F
5.5T
D1
2.2k Q2
Components inside
dotted box are
optional – see text
IC5
OPA1679
Q1
+
6.8nF
Q4 1k 2.2k 150pF
3.3
3.3
10 F
47
100 F
+
D2
FB4
TVS2 TVS1
R
100 F
REG4
LM2663
15pF
Q3
47
L
150pF
CON2
4.7
100k
10k 47
10k
1M
47k
150pF
RIGHT
LINE OUT
T
1 F 2.2k 2.2k 1 F 2.2k
LEFT
LINE OUT
Q5
S
CON3 (other side)
REG 2
100
270k
100nF
HEADPHONES
OUT
1 F
4.7
R
39
IRR1
CON5
37
IRR1
100nF
100nF
R+
1 F
R–
L+
1 F
SPEAKERS
L–
100nF
100nF 10 F
20 1 9
06112181 Rev.B
CON10
+5V
Components inside
dotted box are
optional – see text
Fig.2: the component overlay for the receiver. It’s a double-sided PCB but all components are fitted to the “top” side, with
the exception of CON3. This overlay is also printed on the PCB, as shown at right – between the PCB itself, this diagram
and the photo opposite you should be able to complete the board construction without too much difficulty.
being drawn on the screen. Press Enter in your terminal emulator to stop,
then run this command to calibrate
the touch sensor
GUI CALIBRATE
You will then need to use a thin object that will not scratch the screen,
like a toothpick, to carefully press and
hold in the centre of the targets which
appear in each corner of the screen.
Hopefully, you will get a message
on the console that says “Done. No
errors”.
Otherwise, try calibrating it again.
That completes the initial set-up of
the Explore 100 module.
Main PCB assembly
Use the main PCB overlay diagram,
Fig.2, (and the photo opposite) as a
guide to the following assembly steps.
The main radio board is built on a
double-sided PCB coded 06112181,
which measures 134 x 84.5mm (the
same size as the Explore 100 module).
The first job is to install IC1, the
Si4689 radio IC, which comes in a
48-pad QFN package. If you have purchased a PCB with this chip already
fitted then skip to the next section.
There are two reasons why soldering this chip is tricky: the central
ground pad on the bottom of the chip,
which is inaccessible once it has been
82
Silicon Chip
placed on the board, and the fact that
the other 48 pads on the underside
of the chip are barely visible or accessible.
You have two main options for soldering this chip at home: the first is
via a hot-air reflow or reflow via direct
heating of the PCB with a hotplate.
There are other reflow possibilities,
such as infrared reflow, but you need
expensive, specialised equipment.
All you need to perform the hotair reflow is an SMD hot air station
(which can be purchased for around
$50 online), some fresh solder paste
and a wooden clothes peg (not plastic!) or similar clamping device.
While it isn’t an easy job, it is certainly achievable with some patience.
The second option requires some
slightly more expensive and specialised equipment, namely, a temperature-controlled hotplate (such as the
type often used for chemistry), howev-
Errors in last month’s circuit diagram
Some of the connector numbers shown
in the circuit diagram (Fig.1) last month
were wrong. The two 8-pin expansion
headers were labelled CON7 and CON8
but they should be CON8 and CON9. And
the auxiliary 5V power connector near IC4
(which is in the lower right-hand corner)
should be CON10, not CON9.
Australia’s electronics magazine
er, we have heard stories that a cheap
hotplate intended for cooking food
could be used.
But that is a bit of a hit-and-miss affair, so we prefer using the scientific
hotplate. They can be purchased for
a few hundred dollars and you can
keep this in your arsenal forever (and
you’d better believe SMDs requiring
this type of equipment will only become “the norm” in future).
The main advantage of the hotplate
method is that the alignment of the
chip is not critical; solder surface tension will pull it into the correct position as long as it is reasonably close.
However, that is not generally possible when using hot air because the
airflow tends to blow the chip out of
position unless it is clamped down.
The preparation for both methods is
similar. Start by applying a very thin
smear of solder paste along all the 48
small pads on the PCB, as well as a
thin smear in the middle of the central pad.
By the way, you should use solderpaste that comes in a syringe (ie with a
plunger). But you shouldn’t use leadfree solder paste as its melting point
is too high and you risk damaging either the PCB or components or both!
If you apply too much solder paste
at this stage, you will have a lot of excess solder to remove later, so make
siliconchip.com.au
This same-size photo shows no ferrite rod antenna fitted – we’ve found that it picks up a lot of digital noise from the rest
of the receiver and therefore is not recommended – you’re much better off with an external AM loop antenna if you want
to listen to AM. Similarly, no sockets/headers are shown for CON8 or CON9 – these may be used further down the track!
sure you use a minimal amount.
You can’t apply solder paste to the
48 pads individually as they’re too
small. Smearing it along the length of
each set of 12 pads is adequate. When
it melts, surface tension will pull it off
the fibreglass/solder mask and onto
the copper pads (and the lands on the
bottom of the IC package).
With solder paste applied to the
board, drop the IC down in position.
Make sure its pin 1 dot is orientated
as shown in Fig.2. Using a good light
and a magnifier, check the alignment
of the lands and the PCB pads. The
lands should be just visible from the
side of the IC as they “wrap around”
the bottom edge slightly.
This step is more critical when using hot air reflow; make sure the lands
are accurately aligned on all four sides
of the IC and then carefully clamp
the chip to the board using a clothes
peg (not plastic, or it will melt). Recheck the alignment to ensure it hasn’t
changed.
For the hot plate method, it’s best
to get the chip reasonably close to the
correct alignment – and you definitely
need to get the pin 1 dot in the right
location – but the alignment doesn’t
have to be exactly right.
Now start heating the board. If using hot air, set the airflow low but not
to the minimum and the temperature
high (close to maximum). The trick is
to keep moving the nozzle; don’t let
it dwell on one spot on the board or
chip too long or it might damage it.
For those without 20/20 vision (and perhaps for those who do!) here are enlargements of two of the sections of the board
with closely-spaced SMD components. At left is the area around IC5 & 6, at right IC7 & 2.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 83
Move the hot air around, heating
the board area around the chip and
also the chip itself, then concentrate
more on the chip over time until you
see the solder melt and start to re-flow.
Make sure all the solder paste melts
to ensure all the joints have been
made correctly. You may see a little
flux smoke come out from under the
IC as the solder paste on the central
pad reflows.
The amount of time it takes reflow
all the solder will depend on whether
you have preheated the board (a good
idea if you can) and what type of solder paste you are using.
Remove the heat and let the board
cool down.
If using a hot plate, you basically
just ramp up the temperature of the
board and chip together until the solder melts. It should all melt more or
less at once. Make sure the hot plate
is level and don’t bump it.
When the solder paste does melt,
you should see the chip move slightly
as surface tension pulls it into perfect
alignment. Switch off the hot plate and
let the board cool down.
Regardless of the method you used,
clean off any excess flux using an alcohol solution or specialised flux remover and then carefully examine the
edges of the chip under magnification.
Make sure that there is no solder
bridging the lands on the outside edge
of the chip.
If there is, add some flux paste and
carefully use fine solder wick and a
regular iron to remove it.
Then clean off the flux paste and
re-examine the chip, repeating until
you are happy that there are no solder bridges.
Soldering the parts around IC1
These parts are smaller than most of
the others on the board and their proximity to IC1 and each other (necessary
for good RF performance) makes fitting
them a little tricky.
But with a steady hand, they are not
too difficult to solder. If your board
came with these parts already fitted,
skip this section.
Start with the 12 smaller components surrounding IC1. These are in
metric 1608 (imperial 0603) size packages, which measure 1.6 x 0.8mm.
There are seven capacitors, three inductors, one resistor and a TVS.
Since these components are so
small, it’s best to handle them with
very fine-tipped tweezers. But be especially careful when picking them up
since if you drop them (or they flick
out of the tweezer tips). Murphy’s law
almost guarantees you will not be able
to find them!
The capacitors and resistors are the
easiest. You can place a small amount
of solder on one of the pads, slide the
part into place while heating it, then
solder the opposite end.
It’s then a good idea to wait a few
seconds or so for the solder to solidify, add a little flux paste on top of the
original solder joint and re-heat it to
ensure that both ends are soldered
properly.
The inductors are more tricky because the ones we used can only be
soldered if they are the right way up;
it’s easy to put them on the board upside-down and then they will not take
any solder.
The trick is to make sure the blue
side of the inductors is facing up before soldering them – see the closeup photo (below left) to see how ours
were mounted.
Once you have them orientated correctly, you can solder them in the same
manner as the capacitors and resistors.
For the small components, that just
leaves the TVS, which is similar in
construction to the inductors. Its orange side faces up (also visible in the
close-up photo).
The enlargement at left is of the area of the PCB, around
IC1, which could prove the most challenging. Follow closely
the steps outlined in the text when constructing this section.
Also in this photo T1 is shown very clearly – this will
probably be required if you want to listen to hifi AM.
Above is shown an area which you’ll only need if you want
to connect speakers to your receiver. IC4 is the audio
amplifier; it, along with the four 100nF capacitors, two 1µF
capacitors, CON4 and CON9 can be left off if not needed (ie,
you will use headphones or output to an external amplifier).
84
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – DAB+/FM/AM Radio Receiver
1 Micromite Plus Explore 100 module with 5-inch touchscreen
(see September & October 2016 issues)
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP short form kit (no LCD) Cat SC3834]
1 USB Type-A to Mini-B cable or USB/serial adaptor [eg,
SILICON CHIP Online Shop Cat SC3437]
1 double-sided PCB, code 06112181, 134 x 84.5mm
1 extendable VHF whip antenna with SMA connector
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP Cat SC4847]
1 AM loop antenna (Jaycar Cat LT3001)
1 small ferrite rod antenna (optional; not recommended)
[Jaycar LF1020]
3 small Nylon cable ties
1 22nH 0603 low-loss inductor (L1)
[Murata LQW18AN22NG00D]
2 120nH 0603 low-loss inductors (L2,L4)
[Murata LQW18ANR12G8ZD]
1 18nH 0603 low-loss inductor (L3)
[Murata LQW18AN18NG00D]
4 0603 ferrite beads (FB1-FB4) [Taiyo Yuden BK1608LL680-T]
1 small ferrite balun core (T1) [Jaycar LF1222]
1 1m length 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire (T1)
[Jaycar WW4012]
1 19.2MHz crystal, HC49-US (SMD), 18pF load capacitance
[TXC 9C-19.200MAAJ-T, Digi-Key 887-1062-1-ND] (X1)
1 12MHz crystal, HC49-US (SMD), 18pF load capacitance
[TXC 9C-12.000MEEJ-T, Digi-Key 887-1268-1-ND] (X2)
3 XGD10603NR SMD polymer transient voltage suppressors
(TVS1-TVS3)
1 black switched PCB-mount RCA socket (CON1)
1 horizontal PCB-mount white/red RCA socket pair (CON2)
[eg, Digi-Key RCJ-2112-ND]
1 20x2 female header socket (CON3)
1 20x2 long pin female header socket [Jaycar Cat HM3228]
1 4-way pluggable terminal block and socket, 5/5.08mm pin
spacing (CON4)
1 3.5mm stereo switched PCB-mount jack socket (CON5)
1 2-way pluggable terminal block and socket, 5/5.08mm pin
spacing (CON6)
1 PCB-mount right-angle SMA socket (CON7) OR
1 PCB-mount right-angle PAL socket (CON7)
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP Cat SC4848]
2 8-pin female sockets (CON8,CON9)
1 2-way mini terminal block (CON10; optional)
1 8Mbit TOSLINK transmitter [Altronics Z1601] (TX1)
1 infrared receiver (IRR1)
Case and assembly hardware
1 set of case pieces laser-cut from 3mm clear acrylic
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP Cat SC4849]
4 M3 x 25mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 x 32mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 Nylon hex nuts
4 9mm long M3 tapped Nylon spacers
4 12mm long M3 tapped Nylon spacers
8 15mm long M3 tapped Nylon spacers
Semiconductors
1 Si4689 digital radio IC, QFN-48 (IC1) [Digi-Key 336-4159-ND]
1 WM8804 digital audio transceiver, SSOP-20 (IC2)
1 AT25SF321 32Mbit 104MHz serial flash, SOIC-8 (IC3)
1 PAM8407 stereo 5V amplifier IC, SOIC-16 (IC4)
1 OPA1679IDR quad rail-to-rail op amp, SOIC-14 (IC5)
1 74HC4052 dual 4-channel analog multiplexer, SOIC-16 (IC6)
1 74HC14 hex schmitt trigger inverter, SOIC-14 (IC7)
2 MCP1700T-1802E/TT 1.8V LDO regulators, SOT-23
(REG1,REG2)
1 LM2663MX switched capacitor voltage inverter, SOIC-8
(REG4)
2 BC817 NPN transistors, SOT-23 (Q1,Q3)
3 BC807 PNP transistors, SOT-23 (Q2,Q4,Q5)
2 BAV99 dual series diodes, SOT-23 (D1,D2)
Capacitors
2 100µF 6.3V electrolytic (through-hole or SMD)
3 47µF X5R 1206
6 10µF X5R 0805
7 4.7µF X5R 0805
9 1µF X7R 0805
4 100nF MKT
3 100nF X7R 0805
4 47nF NP0 0805
1 10nF X7R 0805
2 6.8nF NP0 0805
4 150pF NP0 0805
4 47pF NP0 0603, low-ESL [Johanson 251R14S470GV4T]
1 33pF NP0 0603, low-ESL [Johanson 251R14S330JV4T]
3 15pF NP0 0805
2 12pF NP0 0805
2 8.2pF NP0 0603, low-ESL [Johanson 251R14S8R2CV4T]
Resistors (all 1% SMD 0805 apart from one 47)
1 1MW 1 270kW 2 100kW 1 47kW 7 10kW 10 2.2kW
2 1kW 2 680W 1 220W 1 110W 1 100W 5 47W
1 47W (0603)
2 4.7W
1 3.3W
Sourcing the critical Si4689 radio receiver IC
One of the reasons we chose the Si4689 over some of the
other Silicon Labs chips (eg, the slightly cheaper Si4685)
was, at the time, due to its better availability. Over the months
we have been working on this design, Digi-Key has consistently had several hundred in stock.
But some time in late December, their stock level dropped
very low. We purchased the last remaining parts in stock
to ensure that we could supply at least some pre-populated PCB.
The manufacturer’s lead time on this component is not
siliconchip.com.au
particularly long (around six weeks) and we have already requested that some of the next delivery be sent to us for fitment to our radio boards.
Hopefully, by the time this article appears, the stock situation will have improved and Digi-Key will have some chips
in stock, ready to order. If you want to mount this chip yourself but find that it is out of stock, we suggest that you order it anyway.
As far as we can tell, you should receive it within a few
weeks.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 85
The completed receiver, housed in its customdesigned acrylic case*. The upper PCB is the
Micromite Plus Explore 100 board with its
colour touch screen plugged in; the DAB+/
FM/AM radio receiver PCB is the green-edged
board at the bottom. It too connects directly
to the Explore 100 via a multi-way header
plug and socket. There are very few external
connections – visible are the external DAB+/
FM antenna socket and the connectors for
an AM loop antenna and audio (speaker)
output. The opposite end has the stereo audio,
headphones, S/PDIF and TOSlink outputs.
*Available from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
Now you can move on to the larger components around IC1. There are
three ferrite beads and 11 larger capacitors immediately surrounding it.
These can be soldered using the same
basic technique.
The only difference is that it’s easier
since the components are much larger
and easier to see.
Remaining components near
IC1
In terms of the components surrounding IC1, except for the VHF input
connector (CON6), which we’ll leave
until later, all that remains is regulators REG1 & REG2, crystal X1, flash
memory chip IC3 and seven associated passive components, comprising
six capacitors and one 3.3 resistor.
It’s best to start with REG1 and
REG2, both 1.8V regulators. These can
be soldered similarly to the passives,
by tacking the central pin, checking
that the other two pins are lined up
over their pads, soldering them, then
refreshing the first solder joint with a
dab of flux paste.
Then you can fit the remaining
resistor and capacitors mentioned
above.
Finally, solder flash chip IC3 in
place, ensuring that its pin 1 notch
or dot faces the top of the board, as
shown in Fig.2.
The pins are relatively widely
spaced so you can solder them individually. If you accidentally get a
solder bridge between adjacent pins,
clean it up with some flux paste and
solder wick.
Now solder 19.2MHz crystal X1 in
place. It is not polarised, so its orientation is not critical.
It is a two-pin device; the third pad
underneath it which it partially overlaps is provided to allow for grounding the crystal case. But we have not
86
Silicon Chip
found that to be necessary.
Building outside the box
Having completed the critical radio receiver section, move on to the
remaining components on the board.
There are a couple of optional
sections so you will need to decide
whether to fit them.
IC4 and the components that surround it, in the lower-right corner of
the board, are only needed if you plan
to drive an external speaker or speakers directly from the unit.
These are shown inside a dotted
box on Fig.2.
IC2, IC7 and X2 at lower left, plus
the nearby passives and connector
CON1 and optical transmitter TX1 are
only needed if you require a digital
audio output. These are also shown
inside a dotted box on Fig.2.
As we said last month, the Si4689
firmware does not appear to support
digital audio output in DAB+ mode
so keep that in mind.
Having decided which components
to fit, start by soldering the remaining
ICs in place.
If you are fitting IC2 (WM8804), do
that next as it’s in a fine-pitched SSOP
package. The remaining ICs are much
easier to solder.
For IC2, the simplest technique is
to spread a thin smear of flux paste
on all of its pads, then tack down one
corner pin and check that all the other
pins are aligned with their pads. Also
make sure that its pin 1 dot is facing
towards the bottom of the board, as
shown in Fig.2.
Once you’ve verified that, tack solder the opposite corner pin in place,
then load some solder onto the iron
and gently drag it along the edge of
the pads on one side of the chip. The
flux should cause the solder to wick
along the pad and onto the pin, formAustralia’s electronics magazine
ing perfect joints.
Repeat on the other side. Add extra
solder to any pins which do not appear
to have a good fillet and use flux paste
and solder wick to carefully clean up
any bridges.
Proceed to solder IC4-IC7 and REG4,
all in larger SOIC packages, using either a similar technique or soldering
each pin individually.
Once again, with all these chips,
take care to ensure that the pin 1 dot
or notch is orientated as shown in
Fig.2. If your chip lacks both markings, check for a bevelled edge. This
will indicate the pin 1 side of the chip.
Transistors and diodes
Now mount diodes D1-D2 and transistors Q1-Q5, all in SOT-23 packages
and all in the upper-left corner of the
PCB. D1 and D2 are identical but Q1Q5 consist of two different types so
don’t get them mixed up.
Once that’s done, solder the remaining SMD passive components (mainly resistors and capacitors) in place
where shown in Fig.2. That also includes the remaining ferrite bead,
FB4, near the top edge of the board
and SMD inductor, L4, which goes to
the right of IC2 and may be left off if
you are not fitting IC2.
Now is a good time to fit transient
voltage suppressors TVS1 & TVS2,
just to the left of where transformer
T1 will go later.
Use the same technique as before,
again with the orange side mounted
facing up. 12MHz crystal X2 can then
be soldered in place. It is not needed
if IC2 has not been installed.
Winding the transformer
The Si4689’s AM antenna input is
impedance-matched to a ferrite rod
antenna, which has a typical inductance of around 180-450µH. A loop
siliconchip.com.au
antenna has much better performance
(and can be mounted away from sources of interference) but typically has a
lower inductance, around 10-20µH,
due to the lack of a ferrite core. So a
matching transformer is required for
the AM loop antenna.
This can be easily wound on a small
ferrite balun core (see parts list) using 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire.
Cut a 500mm length of this wire and
then wind 21.5 turns onto the balun
core, leaving 25mm free at the start.
The end of the winding should come
out on the same side of the balun but
out from the other hole.
Trim the longer end to the same
length and then strip the enamel off
both ends. Make a mark on the end
of the core so you know which end
has the terminations for the larger
winding.
Now cut a 200mm length of that
same wire and wind five and a half
turns onto the same core, starting from
the opposite end. Again, leave 25mm
spare at the start and cut the end to the
same length. Strip the insulation from
those wires, too. Your transformer is
complete and ready to be mounted.
Note that our prototype transformer was wound with the terminations
all at one end. This works as well but
makes it harder to mount. And it’s
easier to get the windings mixed up.
Through-hole components
Start by fitting the two 100µF electrolytic capacitors, with the longer
(positive) leads through the holes towards the top edge of the board, as
shown in Fig.2.
Surface-mounting electrolytic capacitors can also be used.
Next, fit the four 100nF MKT capacitors at lower right, assuming that
you have already fitted IC4. These are
not polarised.
You can now mount your transformer (T1) to the board using a cable tie,
with the 21.5 turn winding (marked
earlier) towards TVS1 and TVS2. Pull
the cable tie tight and cut off the excess, then solder the four wires in
place where shown.
CON4 and CON6 are pluggable terminal blocks so solder them in place
now, with the socket side sticking out
over the side of the PCB.
Two-way horizontal RCA connector CON2 will probably have a triangular mounting bracket on the top,
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which we don’t need. It will get in
the way of the case later, so we suggest that you cut it off with a hacksaw
(flush with the top of the rectangular
socket moulding) and then file the
top smooth.
You can then push the socket down
onto the PCB fully and solder its four
pins in place.
Next, install jack socket CON5, making sure that it is aligned with the edge
of the PCB – you may need to twist it
a little to get it lined up. Remove the
nut from its shaft before soldering it
in place. Now is also a good time to
install the single RCA socket (CON1)
and TOSLINK transmitter (TX1), if
you have fitted IC2.
Now fit SMA socket CON7. It’s just
a matter of pushing it all the way
down onto the PCB, with the barrel
projecting out over the edge, and soldering the five pins. But note that the
body of the connector is a large piece
of metal and it has large pins, so you
will need a hot iron to form satisfactory solder joints.
You could use a PAL socket but
these are hard to source, and these
days more and more antennas are using F-type or SMA connectors instead.
We have added some PCB-mounting
PAL connectors to our online shop
(see the parts list), so you can purchase one of those and fit it to the
board instead of the SMA connector
if you prefer to do so.
Note that if you do this you will
need to enlarge the corresponding
hole in the case when the time comes
to assemble it.
The two eight-pin female headers
(CON8 & CON9) are for possible future expansion. You can solder them
in place now, or you can leave them
off until we publish details of a future
expansion board which will plug into
those sockets and mount them then.
CON10 is an optional two-way terminal block which connects directly
to the 5V supply for the audio amplifier IC (IC4). We’ve designed the board
so that 5V power is supplied to it via
the Explore 100.
But since the audio amplifier can
draw significant current, and that current must flow through a single pin
on the 40-way header, to get maximum power from the speaker outputs,
you should feed the 5V supply in via
CON10 instead. If you plan to use that
option, fit the CON10 terminal block
now and then you can wire it up to a
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chassis socket later.
Solder the infrared receiver, IRR1,
with its leads bent so that it sticks out
the top edge of the board, as shown
in Fig.2. Make sure that its lens bump
faces away from you, when looking
at the board as shown in the overlay
diagram. If you’re unsure, check our
photos.
Bend the leads so that the bottom of
the receiver package is just about resting on the edge of the board.
The last component to mount on the
board is the two-row 40-pin header
socket. We’ve left it until last because
it mounts on the back of the board.
Make sure it’s sitting flush on the PCB
and solder all 40 pins, taking care not
to apply too much heat, which could
deform the plastic.
You will notice that we have not
mentioned fitting the ferrite rod antenna. You can do so if you wish; it’s
shown dotted on the overlay diagram
in the correct (horizontal) position.
You then just need to connect the
wires with green and red markings to
the pads shown.
The reason we have left it out is that
we’ve found that it picks up a lot of
digital noise from the control circuitry and as a result, AM reception performance with the ferrite rod is not
good. If you connect an AM loop antenna without the ferrite rod in place,
you will get much better AM reception than if the ferrite rod is mounted
on the board.
We are currently experimenting
with possible shielding solutions and
also software changes to mitigate this
interference issue and if we come up
with a good solution, it will be incorporated into the construction process
in next months’ issue.
But for now, the safest thing to do
is leave the ferrite rod off the board.
You can always fit it later. It’s held in
place using two cable ties which loop
through holes on the PCB, as shown
in Fig.2.
Coming next month
You should now have a fully assembled and working Explore 100 module
plus a completed radio PCB.
Next month we will have the details
on how to put them together, build
the case, load the software, test it and
get it up and running. We’ll also have
more screen grabs and details on how
to use the radio.
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February 2019 87
Philips Brilliance 499P9H
Curved,
UltraWide,
49-inch
monitorr
monito
Review by
Nicholas Vinen
This monitor is unlike anything we have seen before.
A typical monitor is about twice as wide as it is tall. This one has an
aspect ratio of 32:9, meaning that it’s about three and a half times as wide
as it is tall! It’s also concave, as you can see from the photos.
While that might seem strange, once you get used to it,
it’s actually really good.
Y
ou may recall that we previously reviewed two Philips 4K
monitors, a 40-inch (100cm)
set in the September 2015 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9003) and
a 43-inch (109cm) set in the March
2017 issue (siliconchip.com.au/Article/10572).
I liked the 40-inch 4K monitor so
much I purchased one – in fact, I am
still using it as my primary screen and
I am quite happy with it. The 43-inch
monitor we reviewed later is even better and I’ve just recently ordered one
of those.
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Silicon Chip
There are many reasons why I like
these large, high-resolution monitors.
At home, I have two high-resolution
30-inch monitors side-by-side. But a
single, larger monitor is better for jobs
like PCB layout, where you want to expand one piece of software to fill up
all your screen real estate.
That lets you see the whole circuit board with all the details in one
glance. You don’t have to zoom and
pan around; you just use your eyeballs.
It’s a very natural way to work. You
can do it with multiple monitors but
the section you’re interested in alAustralia’s electronics magazine
ways seems
to be in the gap where
the bezels meet. It is very annoying.
But two slightly smaller monitors
will have a greater total area, so that
set-up can be better when you are using two applications at the same time. I
do that frequently; for example, I might
write or edit an article on one monitor
while viewing PDF data sheets, circuit
diagrams, component data on supply
websites and other reference material
on the other monitor.
So clearly, both configurations are
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excellent but
for different reasons.
Enter the challenger
This time, rather than reviewing
yet another huge monitor, we thought
we would look at something a bit different.
And we certainly found something
very different when Philips Monitors
Australia dropped off this weird looking beast into our office for review.
It’s 1.2m wide and 370mm tall, with
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a native resolution of 5120 x
1440 pixels (called “DQHD” or “5K”).
That’s around 7.4 megapixels, compared to around 8.3 megapixels for a
4K display. Its total screen area is very
similar to that of a 40-inch 4K monitor, at just under half a square metre.
It comes with a heavy height-adjustable, swivelling and tilting stand, necessary to keep it from toppling over if
you give it a bump. This is one of the
best monitor stands we’ve used; the
adjustment range is wide and adjustments are smooth.
It also has an integrated webcam
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and USB-C support, which opens up
some intriguing possibilities that we’ll
come to later. It has quite a few useful features available via its on-screen
interface, which are described below.
Daily use
The real question with this monitor is whether it’s better than a more
traditional large monitor, such as the
two 4K displays mentioned above. The
answer is that it depends on what you
are doing with it.
You can think of this screen as if
it is two 27-inch, 2560 x 1440 pixel
February 2019 89
These two shots, from the side and from above, give an excellent idea of the amount of curvature
of the display. It takes arguably a couple of hours to get used to but then it is a real bonus!
monitors side-by-side on your desk.
The main difference is that you don’t
have the annoying bezels running
down the middle of the two screens.
You can bring up two applications
side-by-side, in which case, it’s just
like having two separate monitors. But
you can still run a single large program
seamlessly.
So it definitely has greater flexibility than two separate displays – except
for the fact that with separate displays,
you can rotate one or both into portrait
mode. But in practice, we found in the
past that we rarely did, even when we
had monitors that allowed it, as it was
too much of a hassle.
I think the primary purpose of a
monitor like this is for playing 3D
games. They will definitely benefit
from the ultra-wide aspect (which sort
of mimics the field of human vision,
although it should be a bit taller in my
opinion). I have played games on dual
monitors setups before and while you
do eventually get used to the bezel in
the middle, it’s much better without it.
But I expect many of our readers are
more interested in using their computer for ECAD tasks than games, so it’s a
fair question to ask how well it works
for drawing circuit diagrams and laying out PCBs.
The answer is that it does work well
for those sorts of jobs, but not quite
as well as the 43-inch 4K Philips BDM4350UC that we reviewed previously.
On the other hand, this new 499P
monitor is probably better overall for
other tasks such as web browsing, email, word processing and viewing
PDFs. That’s because it’s better suited
for use with side-by-side application
windows.
It allows a display set-up that I’ve
never really used before, too, with
three different programs arrayed side90
Silicon Chip
by-side, each taking up about 1/3 of the
screen. When you do that, each window is approximately square, and of
course, the middle one is centred in
the display, right in front of your eyes.
It’s a pretty good way to work and
something that I think I would find
myself using more and more if I keep
this monitor long-term.
Other aspects of the display
I can’t fault this display on sharpness or colour accuracy. The latter is
especially good. It’s way better than
on my older 40-inch Philips BDM4065UC, which sometimes displays
light colours with a completely incorrect hue, despite being in a semi-calibrated sRGB mode (the 43-inch BDM4350UC we reviewed later was a lot
better in that respect).
It’s also very bright. On maximum
brightness, it’s probably TOO bright,
at least in a typical office environment. But that’s a good thing in case
you need to use it in a more brightly lit
room, or you need more contrast. The
backlighting is via LEDs, as is common
these days, which is part of the reason
for the very even brightness and excellent colour rendition.
Philips refers to this monitor as having “Ultra Wide-Color Technology”
which means that it can reproduce the
entire RGB colour space and more. It
has 117.3% of the sRGB colour gamut
so it should satisfy all but the pickiest photographers and digital artists.
As for the curvature, I found it pretty odd at first but quickly got used to
it. If a monitor this wide was flat, you
would have a few problems because
the edges and corners are so much
further away from your eyes than the
centre. That would mean that the viewing angle would be quite significant at
the edges.
And while this monitor’s perforAustralia’s electronics magazine
mance is not bad off-axis, it doesn’t
have the best viewing angle I’ve ever
seen; it starts “washing out” once you
are more than about 30-40° off-axis.
That’s because it’s an MVA type panel (multi-domain vertical alignment),
which does not have quite as good
a viewing angle as an IPS (in-plane
switching) LCD panel.
The curvature helps to make the
viewing angle pretty much consistent
across the display, so that you don’t
notice that during normal usage.
Also note that with a wide, flat monitor, the edges would look a bit distorted because the pixels are further
away and therefore appear smaller
compared to those in the middle. The
curvature helps with that, too, as the
edges are closer to your eyes than the
would be on a flat monitor.
One caveat, though, is that since the
curvature is fixed, that means the ideal
viewing distance is fixed. And it’s a little further away from the monitor than
I am used to, or would prefer. That’s
because, at the ideal viewing distance,
it does not fill my field of vision.
I’m probably nit-picking here; it isn’t
that bad, but I would have preferred
more curvature, to allow me to get my
head closer to the display while still
retaining the advantages conveyed by
the curvature. But perhaps a monitor
that curved would be impractical to
manufacture. Again, this is something
that I am starting to get used to.
By the way, there is an advantage
to the MVA type panel over IPS: increased contrast with deeper and more
consistent blacks. And you can certainly notice it on the 499P; its contrast and the blacks on this monitor
are excellent.
Interestingly, the monitor reports its
native resolution to the PC as 3840 x
1080, even though it actually has 5120
x 1440 pixels. We suspect that this is
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February 2019 91
because a lot of devices cannot handle the higher resolution. Those that
do support it can generally be forced
into the monitor’s native resolution.
This monitor supports a 120Hz refresh rate, which would be great for
games, but we suspect that it’s only
possible at the 3840 x 1080 resolution.
It’s far less critical to run the monitor
at its native resolution for games since
you won’t notice the slight resulting
softness, and it’s less work for the
graphics processing unit (GPU), so you
will likely get a higher frame rate too.
The very fast display update rate
(5ms grey to grey) is also what you
want for playing games, to minimise
“ghosting” of fast-moving objects
across the screen.
Unlike some cheaper monitors, the
499P has a proper anti-glare coating.
I think that’s important since glossy
monitors tend to reflect what’s behind
them and it can make them very hard
to view in brightly lit areas.
One small disadvantage of the
curved screen, though, is that it’s harder to adjust the monitor’s angle to avoid
glare, compared to a flat screen which
only reflects light at one angle. But the
anti-glare coating certainly helps to reduce the severity of any light which
may be reflected.
Additional features
I am using a DisplayPort cable from
my video card to the monitor, to allow
me to run it at full resolution with a
60Hz refresh rate. It was basically
“plug-and-play”; I spent a few minutes
going through the graphics settings on
my PC and the monitor’s menus but it
worked straight away.
It also has two HDMI inputs but unless you have a very new video card
which supports HDMI 2.0, you probably won’t be able to run it at its native resolution with a decent refresh
rate that way.
One of the neat features of this monitor (and many other Philips monitors)
is that you can split the monitor in half
and show the display from one input
on one half, and another input on the
other half.
So if you had a video card capable of driving two 2560 x 1440 monitors via two separate outputs, but not
a single 5160 x 1440 monitor on one
output, you could still run the monitor at its native resolution. From the
computer’s point of view, it’s two separate monitors.
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Silicon Chip
Or you could connect two different
computers and have the display from
each shown simultaneously.
The menu system of this monitor
is easier to use than that of the 40inch and 43-inch monitors mentioned
above since the control buttons are
arrayed along the bottom edge, rather
than it having a joystick hidden behind the screen.
USB C support
There is actually a fourth display input and that is via a USB C port. Yes,
video can be transmitted on a USB C
cable, along with data and power.
One of the neat aspects of this is
that if you have a laptop or notebook
with a USB C port, you only have to
plug in a single cable to use the monitor and it will also connect your USB
peripherals AND charge the battery
at up to 60W.
That’s extremely handy!
We tested this feature out with a
Macbook lent to us by Philips Monitors for testing purposes and found
that it was indeed just a matter of plugging the USB C micro cable in at both
ends and no further configuration was
necessary.
However, we were unable to use
the monitor at full resolution in this
manner; it dropped to 3840 x 1080. We
suspect this is a USB C video limitation. It’s a pity since while the monitor is usable at this resolution, it’s a
bit fuzzy. You really want to run it at
its native resolution.
Still, the all-in-one connectivity offered by USB C is excellent and something that we hope will become more
widespread in future.
Like most monitors, this one has a
built-in USB hub which also incorporates standard full-size ports in addition to the USB C micro port that we
used to test the above features. So even
if your computer doesn’t support USB
C, you can still connect your keyboard
and mouse (or whatever) via its hub,
so you only need one USB cable running back to the PC.
The various inputs, USB sockets and
power connector are arranged along
the bottom of the monitor which makes
it a bit fiddly to plug them in but it is a
bit tidier than having cables that plug
into the back of the monitor. However,
while the real benefit of sockets on the
bottom should be that you can push
the monitor’s back up against a wall
Australia’s electronics magazine
CAUTION: CHILDREN ABOUT!
We mentioned it briefly in the text
but with any large flat screen monitor,
you have to be extremely careful if you
have young children about.
There have been several reports of
children tipping the monitor over on
themselves, resulting in serious injury
– and worse. These things are heavy!
or other object, the stand doesn’t allow you to do that.
Conclusion
I’ve been using the Philips Brilliance
499P monitor for a variety of tasks for
a couple of days and I’ve come to like
it a great deal. I am planning on buying a new monitor soon and will be
considering this one, along with the
43-inch, 4K BDM4350UC. Which is
better depends on what you are planning to do with it.
If you’re into gaming at all, or you’re
mainly going to use it for web browsing, e-mail, word processing or even
programming, the widescreen 499P
has a lot going for it. It’s just a bit more
flexible in terms of multi-window layouts and lends itself better to having
several applications open at a time.
But if you do a lot of photo editing,
PCB layouts, drawing large and complex diagrams or other work where a
single colossal window is what you
want, a large 4K monitor with a more
traditional aspect ratio such as the BDM4350UC is probably better.
By the way, the BDM4350UC will
likely be replaced with a newer model during 2019. We expect that its replacement will be even better, based
on our experience with the 499P.
Having said that, it’s hard to go past
the 499P for the “wow” factor. Pretty
much everyone who’s seen it while
I’ve been working on this review has
commented on it!
I would strongly recommend both
of those Philips monitors as I feel
that they are both excellent value for
money.
The UltraWide 499P has an MSRP
$1999 but you can expect to pay a little less “on the street”.
The monitor is expected to be available by early this month. Contact your
favourite computer store to find out
when they will be available for purchase.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Vintage workbench
By Ian Batty
BWD’s 216A hybrid bench supply
BWD was a major Australian electronics manufacturer from their
founding in 1955 through to the 1980s and this hybrid (valve/solid state)
power supply is from their golden era. The BWD 216A delivers 0-400V
at 0-200mA and 0-250V at up to 50mA and has two 6.3VAC unregulated
outputs. It was marketed as a general purpose laboratory power supply.
I recently purchased a BWD 216A
power supply, which was originally
released in the early 70s. I consider
it a smart design; the way the circuit
operates is quite intriguing. This unit
had high quality construction and was
a commercial success, selling over
40,000 units.
If you haven’t heard of BWD, they
were a famous Australian electronic
test instrument manufacturer for many
years. See the history panel for some
details on the company.
BWD is still around in the same location at Mulgrave, Victoria, even to
today. Over time, they have undergone
multiple name changes, and are now
called Observator Instruments.
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Silicon Chip
While the BWD 216 was released
around 1974, it includes five valves
as well as numerous transistors and
a couple of ICs. Why use valves in a
relatively recent design? The main reason is that at the time, high-voltage,
high-power semiconductor devices
were not really available. Valves fit
the bill just fine.
The 216A has two regulated outputs. One output can be varied over
the range of 0-400V and supplies up
to 200mA with an adjustable current
limit, while the other delivers 0-250V
at up to 50mA.
The two outputs are separate and
floating, so they can be biased up
to ±500V DC from Earth and can be
Australia’s electronics magazine
“stacked” if necessary, eg, to give
split rails.
Both outputs have an impressive
regulation to 0.002%+3mV for a 10%
line (ie, mains) variation over 100%
of the load range. Ripple and noise
is specified as <20mV peak-to-peak,
1mV RMS for the 400V output and
<10mV peak-to-peak, 1mV RMS for
the 250V output.
Recovery time for both outputs is
<50µs for a 100% load step, to within
100mV. The 400V output can be used
as a constant-current source with a setting between 20mA and 200mA while
the 250V output has a fixed current
limit of around 60mA.
The unit also has two bonus 6.3VAC
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1 (left): a basic example of a series regulator made with two
transistors and a zener diode.
Fig.2 (right): a more complex example of a series regulator, which can be adjusted for a zero output voltage and has
improved regulation. It incorporates two constant-current sources (I1/I2) which pass a fixed current regardless of voltage.
outputs each rated at up to 3A.
One of the most impressive aspects
of this power supply is that its specifications are still pretty good by today’s standards, especially the line
and load regulation and ripple/noise
figures. And they achieved that almost
entirely with discrete parts, many of
which would be considered reasonably ho-hum these days.
As this power supply has a fairly
involved design, I’m going to start by
explaining some of the basic principles
of voltage regulation and then expand
my description to includes sections of
the actual power supply circuit.
BWD 216 versions
The 216 and 216A differ mainly in
how they generate the internal supplies to power the differential amplifiers. The 216 used voltage multipliers from 6.3VAC windings to produce
the low-voltage comparator supplies
while the 216A uses additional, dedicated 30VAC windings.
Series regulation
The 216A uses series regulation,
where a variable resistance “pass” element between the mains-derived DC
source and the output terminals controls the output voltage.
A negative feedback loop compares
the output voltage to the desired voltage and adjusts the resistance of the
pass element to maintain the desired
output voltage regardless of load variations or current draw.
Practical regulators also sense the
load current and increase the resistance of the pass element if an excessive amount of current is being drawn,
cutting off the current flow to protect
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both the load and the regulator from
either overload or a short circuit at
the output.
By making the overload current limit adjustable, and making the over-current protection part of the linear negative feedback loop, the supply can also
be used as a constant-current source.
A basic series regulator can be
built with just three semiconductors,
as shown in Fig.1: a reference diode
(ZD1), pass transistor (Q2) and feedback transistor (Q1). Reference diode
ZD1 provides 6.2V at Q1’s emitter.
Q2’s base connects to a voltage divider
wired across the output.
Q1 will start conducting when its
base voltage reaches around 6.8V (ie,
0.6V above its fixed emitter voltage),
which due to the feedback divider of
R1 and R2, will happen when the output voltage is around 10V.
If the output voltage rises above
10V, eg, due to a reduction in output
loading, this will mean that Q1’s base
voltage increases, increasing its collector current.
As a result, the voltage at the base
of Q2 will drop. Since Q2 is a simple
emitter-follower, its emitter voltage
(the output voltage) will fall until the
circuit re-balances, with the output
voltage again around 10V.
Likewise, if the output voltage falls
(due to a heavier load), this will lower
Q1’s base voltage, causing it to conduct
less current and allowing the base voltage of Q2 to rise. Q2 will thus deliver
more current to the output and bring
its voltage back up to 10V.
Of course, such a simple design has
limitations, such as the fact that as Q1
and Q2 heat up and cool down, their
base-emitter voltages change and so
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the output voltage will drift. And the
output voltage can never be adjusted
below 6.8V or else Q1 will never turn
on. But it serves as a useful demonstration of the basic principle.
An improved series regulator
The slightly more complex design
shown in Fig.2 allows adjustment
down to 0V and provides improved
regulation.
This diagram includes two “current
sources”, I1 and I2. These represent
devices (or sub-circuits) are able to
maintain a fixed current flow regardless of the voltage across the device.
Traditionally, Junction Field Effect
Transistors (JFET) were used in this
role with a zero gate bias. They are depletion mode devices, so an increased
gate bias results in reduced channel
current. With zero bias, they tend to
act as a current source although the
exact current varies considerably from
device to device.
This means that JFETs used in this
role are typically manually selected
from a batch, based on the measured
current with zero bias.
By the way, you may have seen
“current regulation diodes” for sale.
These are JFETs which are batch-selected to fall within a particular current range. The gate terminal is internally connected to the source via a resistor, so it is not exposed, resulting
in a two-terminal device that looks
like a diode.
The pass element is still labelled
Q2. It needs a certain maximum base
current to give the maximum output
current. A resistor was used to supply
this in the simpler version (Fig.1) but
it will typically have a value less than
February 2019 95
Fig.3 (above): the internal power supply
produces the 11V, 0V and -6.2V rails used by the
250V and 400V regulator circuits.
Fig.4 (right): this 11V rail is used to produce a
4mA constant-current source which is varied
from 0-400V using RV1, and is then fed to IC1B
(Q1-3), shown in Fig.5.
1kW. So the voltage gain of Q1 will be
low and regulation will be poor.
I1’s constant-current characteristic gives it a very high impedance; in
theory, it is infinite, though obviously,
that is not possible in reality. So Q1’s
gain is maximised and regulation is
improved.
Rather than using a single transistor for negative feedback, in this case,
we have two: Q1 and Q3, which form
a “long-tailed pair” differential amplifier.
The output voltage is fed back to the
base of Q3, the inverting input, while
the reference voltage is applied to the
base of Q1, the non-inverting input.
This reference voltage is derived
from the unfiltered DC supply by zener diode ZD2, via resistor R2 and bypassed by capacitor C3. It is then varied using potentiometer VR1 to provide a voltage between 0V and 10V
to the base of Q1, which indicates the
desired output voltage.
Because the reference and feedback
voltages are applied to two different
transistor bases now, the 0.6V baseemitter offset is cancelled out and
thus temperature changes resulting in
varying base-emitter voltages will not
cause output drift.
That is assuming that Q1 and Q3
are kept at the same temperature but
their dissipation will be low and they
can be mounted in close proximity or
even thermally bonded, so that is not
difficult to arrange.
This also has the advantage that the
reference voltage can be varied using
adjustment pot VR1 right down to 0V;
and so the output voltage can go down
to 0V as well.
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Silicon Chip
However, it then becomes necessary to provide a negative voltage at
the emitters of Q1 and Q3 so that they
can remain in conduction with a zero
base voltage.
These emitters are connected to the
second constant-current source, I2,
and current flows through it to a negative supply which is regulated by zener diode ZD1.
The negative supply is generated
by a separate rectifier/filter from the
transformer (D3 and C2); the bias current for zener diode ZD1 is supplied
via resistor R1.
Using a current source (I2) to define the current from the emitters of
the long-tailed pair transistors also
ensures maximum performance of the
differential amplifier, giving a high
common-mode rejection ratio.
This means that gain (and thus, regulation) is the same for all base-to-base
voltage differences regardless of the actual voltage with respect to ground, ie,
from maximum output to zero.
For more details on how this type
of regulator works, refer to the book
“Understanding DC Power Supplies
and Oscillators” by Barry Davis.
This basic design shown in Fig.2
was used in the first-generation µA/
LM723 regulator IC. Although it was
the device of choice for many pieces
of solid state equipment, it was limited
by being a low-voltage design.
Valves in the output stage
Discrete semiconductor devices had
limited voltage ratings at the time the
BWD 216A was designed and it would
have been impractical to design a
400V regulated supply using readily
Australia’s electronics magazine
available semiconductors.
As a result, the 216A uses a combination of valve and solid-state components, ie, it is a hybrid power supply. The valves are used as the pass
elements: four 6CA7/EL34s in the
0-400V section and a single 6CW5 in
the 0-250V section.
The control circuits use a combination of bipolar junction transistors
(BJTs), junction field-effect transistors
(JFETs) and silicon integrated circuits
in the form of two CA3054 general-purpose dual differential amplifiers (one
for the 0-400V section and another for
the 0-250V).
Using thermionic valves as the output devices has another advantage
which is that they can handle much
higher dissipation than a semiconductor device without heatsinking,
since they are made from glass and
steel, rather than silicon which has
a much lower failure temperature.
And they are physically large and
therefore more effective at radiating
all that heat.
Using a valve pass element usually
demands that the control circuit can
drive the valve’s grid voltage from near
zero (for maximum output) to cutoff
(for minimum output). The triodeconnected 6CA7s require up to 90V
of negative grid bias for full cut-off.
BWD took the innovative approach
of referencing the control circuit positive supply to the regulated output,
thus effectively “floating” it with the
output voltage. This allows the control circuitry to work at low internal
voltages.
The 216A takes a different approach
to biasing as well. The control circuit
applies a fixed 11V bias to the 6CA7
grids, then uses paralleled transistors
to sink current from the valve cathodes. By controlling the equivalent
resistance of the cathode-circuit transistors, it controls the output voltage.
The transistors need a maximum
voltage rating of some 100V (to provide
the -90V bias described above) but it’s
still the 6CA7 valves that handle the
majority of the 600V DC unregulated
supply, dropping this to the required
output voltage.
0V output at the full rated 200mA
load current (the worst case for dissipation) results in around 120W loss in
the pass circuitry. As four valves are
connected in parallel, each will dissipate up to 30W, just within the 6CA7’s
specified dissipation limit of 33W.
siliconchip.com.au
Circuit description
A complete service manual for
the BWD 216A is available from
Kevin Chant’s excellent website, at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aalx
This includes diagrams showing
the circuit for each output separately,
as well as a hand-drawn (and barely
legible) complete circuit at the end.
Be aware that the circuit for the
0-400V output (BWD drawing 1204)
in this manual, reproduced in Fig.6,
has an error; it omits the biasing for
the internal current generator at pin
3 of IC1, which connects to resistors
R30 and R32. The correct connections
are shown in Fig.5. Drawings 1205 and
910 in the service manual are correct.
The following is a somewhat simplified description of the circuit.
Mains transformer T1 has a split primary winding, allowing for 110VAC
(85-137V) or 230/240VAC (185-260V)
operation.
It also has eight secondaries: a
440VAC winding for the 0-400V DC
regulator; a 290VAC winding for
the 0-250V DC regulator; two separate 6.3VAC heater windings for the
0-400V regulator valves and the 250V
regulator valve; two 30VAC windings
for the solid-state sections of the two
regulators; and two 6.3VAC windings
brought out to the front panel to power
external loads.
Let’s start by looking at the two internal low-voltage power supplies for
the solid state control circuitry. They
are virtually identical, with one used
for the 400V output and one for the
250V output. This portion of the circuit is shown in Fig.3.
The 30VAC from the transformer
secondary is half-wave rectified by
diode D5 and filtered by 68µF capacitor C6. The resulting pulsating DC is
then regulated by a conventional and
delightfully simple low-voltage regulator using transistors Q10-Q12, with
zener diode D11 acting as the local
reference voltage.
Q11, the NPN pass transistor, is controlled by NPN transistor Q12. 6.2V zener diode D11 is connected to Q12’s
emitter while a sample of the output
voltage is applied to its base, after having been divided by a factor of 2.47
due to resistors R17/R18. JFET Q10
(selected for a suitable IDSS [drainsource current]) forms the constantcurrent collector load for Q12.
This supply’s overall output is
around 17V DC but it is referenced to
siliconchip.com.au
The internal underside view of the BWD 216A primarily shows the large
capacitors and a few resistors.
the 0-400V output which is connected to the cathode of zener diode D11
(labelled “0V”). So the output at the
emitter of Q11 sits at around +11V relative to the output voltage. This is used
as the positive supply for the two differential amplifiers within IC1 and is
also the source of the fixed +11V grid
bias for valves V1-V4.
The -6.2V which appears at the anode of D11 (relative to the output voltage) is used as the negative supply
for the long-tailed pair connections
of these two differential amplifiers
(IC1A/B), and in the current-sensing
circuitry.
The +11V supply is also fed to
2N3819 JFETs Q13 and Q14 as shown
in Fig.4, which combine to form a
4mA constant-current source, which
is trimmed using trimpot RV2.
This current is fed to 100kW wirewound potentiometer RV1 and so a
voltage of between 0-400V appears at
the top end of RV1, depending on its
rotation.
The two FETs are wired in parallel
to provide this reference current and
each has source biasing, which gives
a more stable current.
That’s important since any instability in this reference current will be
amplified and will cause variations in
the output voltage.
Since RV1 is wired as a rheostat, it
dissipates a maximum of 1.6W when
Australia’s electronics magazine
the output is set to 400V. A wirewound
pot can easily cope with this sort of
dissipation on a continuous basis.
The two differential amplifiers
Both differential amplifiers (IC1A
& IC1B) are contained within a single
CA3054 IC.
This IC includes two balanced transistor pairs, along with transistors
which operate as constant-current
sinks for the common emitter connections. Each amplifier has an operating frequency range extending to
120MHz and gives a voltage gains of
up to 40 times.
The 0-400V reference from RV1 is
fed to pin 13 of IC1B, while the supply’s output voltage is applied to pin
2, in both cases via 2.2kW resistors.
This provides the negative feedback
to adjust the cathode current of V1V4, via transistors Q7-Q9, controlling
the output voltage as described above.
Keep in mind that all of this circuitry is operating anywhere from 0-400V
DC above ground, depending on the
output voltage. This is the clever part
of the design; the control circuitry is
bootstrapped against the 0-400V supply, allowing it to operate at low voltages while controlling a high-voltage
output.
To make the following description
easier to understand, I have re-drawn
part of the 0-400V regulator circuit in
February 2019 97
The internal top view of the 216A shows the large power transformer at left,
with the main PCB populated the two differential amplifier ICs, which were
manufactured by AWA, along with other discrete components.
Fig.5: a simplified circuit of the 0-400V regulator portion of the BWD 216A.
Some components have been left out of this circuit for clarity, including the
470pF capacitor and 6.8kW resistor wired in series between pins 1 & 2 of IC1B.
98
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.5, with the internal transistors in
the CA3054 ICs shown, so you can see
exactly how the circuit works. Note
that I have simplified this somewhat,
omitting some components which
are not critical to understanding how
it works.
While differential amplifier IC1B is
used to control the output voltage as
described above, IC1A provides the
adjustable current limit. Since the
maximum current setting is equal to
the supply’s maximum current rating,
this also protects the supply against
overload.
A compensation network comprising a 470pF capacitor and a 6.8kW
resistor wired in series is connected
between output pin 1 and inverting
input pin 2 of IC1B, to stabilise the
feedback loop and prevent oscillation
(not shown in Fig.5).
The error amplifier’s output current
at pin 1 passes through diode D12, to
the base of NPN transistor Q9, which
controls the output stage. 47kW resistor R22 provides the current to drive
Q7-Q9 and the current flowing through
D12 and into pin 1 of IC1B is subtracted from the current flowing into the
base of Q9.
This arrangement gives high current
gain, and (importantly for any amplifier circuit) presents a high input impedance, giving excellent regulation
accuracy.
IC1A works similarly to IC1B but
instead of amplifying the difference
between the output voltage and the
desired voltage, its pin 9 inverting
input connects to one end of R15,
a 4.7W 0.5W wire-wound resistor
which is used as a shunt, to measure the output current. As the current increases, so does the voltage
across this resistor.
Its non-inverting input connects to
the wiper of potentiometer RV3 which
is connected to the opposite end of
R15 and to the +11V supply rail via
some padding resistor, including trimmer RV4.
Thus, RV3 allows the user to control how much current flows through
R15 before output pin 8 of IC1A goes
low, forwarding-biasing diode D10
and reducing the output voltage. This
will then (normally) reduce the output current and the circuit will stabilise at a particular current level, as
set using RV3.
With RV3 at the top of its travel,
IC1A’s input pin 6 receives the full
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6 (above): the 0-400V 200mA regulator section of the BWD 216A power supply, reproduced from the service manual.
Fig.7 (below): the separate 0-250V 50mA regulator section of the power supply.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 99
voltage drop across R15 while at the
other end of RV3’s travel, this input
receives a smaller proportion of R15’s
voltage drop.
An output current of 20mA will create a drop across R15 of some 100mV.
With RV3 set to the top end of its
travel (minimum current limit on the
front panel), this will put IC1A’s internal transistor Q6 into conduction,
drawing current through D10 and R22,
overcoming Q2’s voltage control function and reducing the forward bias on
transistors Q7-Q9.
As IC1A becomes active, the entire
supply can no longer give a constant
output voltage, but becomes a constant-current supply instead. At the
other end of RV3’s travel, the output
will deliver its full rated 200mA, assuming trimpot RV4 is correctly adjusted to give the correct voltage at
pin 6 of IC1A.
So diodes D10 and D12 allow IC1A
and IC1B to independently lower the
output voltage when either the voltage or current is above the set-point,
without having to “fight” each other.
In other words, they form a “wired-or”
type network.
Adjustable transient response
A change in the output voltage
(when operating in constant-voltage
mode) or load current (when operating in constant-current mode) will put
the circuit out of balance and its overall negative feedback will cause it to
rebalance and return the output to the
desired value.
How quickly this happens is a measure of the circuit’s transient response.
The 0-400V section includes an adjustable positive feedback network (see
manufacturer’s notes) that allows trimming of the output’s dynamic response
(via trimpot RV5, not shown on Fig.5)
to be optimal.
Generally, you want the output to
“undershoot” rather than “overshoot”
but it should undershoot by as little
as possible to give a fast transient response.
100µF 700V capacitor.
It is parallelled by 100kW bleed
resistors R1/R2 which help to compensate for any difference in leakage
currents which may occur in C1 and
C2. Without R1/R2, this could cause
the capacitors to charge unevenly
and one could be charged above its
350V rating.
The resulting 600V DC is applied
to the anodes of the four parallelled
triode-connected 6CA7/ EL34s (V1V4). The 6AS7/6080 twin triode often used in power supplies is limited
to 250V DC but the 800V DC rating of
the 6CA7 valves makes them an ideal
choice here.
Cathode resistors R4-R7 compensate for differences in the valve characteristics, so they share the load
more or less evenly. The cathode
control circuit contains paralleled
transistors Q7/Q8. These are in turn
controlled by emitter-follower transistor Q9, which forms a Darlington
Pair with Q7/Q8.
Although the transistors are in series with the valves, their primary purpose is to control valve cathode current rather than act as primary pass
elements.
Essentially, the valves amplify the
voltage across the transistors, “shielding” them from the high voltage difference which would otherwise cause
breakdown and destruction.
Working on this unit
If you’ve just powered down one
of these supplies and want to work
on it, you will have to be careful with
the charge on the two 200µF 350V filter capacitors for the 0-400V regulator
and the 32µF 500V filter capacitor for
the 0-250V regulator.
These can retain a substantial charge
for several minutes after switch-off
and could give a lethal shock if not
fully discharged before working on
the circuit.
Discharging high-voltage capacitors with a screwdriver looks pretty
impressive. Hopefully, if you do this,
you’ll escape injury from flying vaporised metal. But I recommend against
it. Such actions cause massive current
spikes and it’s quite possible that this
will destroy solid-state components.
If you can’t be bothered to wait a few
minutes to let the parallel resistors discharge these capacitors, try connecting a 4.7kW 5W resistor across them.
Chassis layout and clean-up
The major components are mounted on the chassis, with the five valves
(four 6CA7/EL34s and one 6CW5/
EL86) inside a protective cover at the
rear. Smaller components are mounted on a printed circuit board, with the
0-400V DC section on the left and the
0-250V DC section on the right.
I acquired three of these supplies at
High-voltage source and
pass circuitry
The output of the 440VAC secondary from the transformer is fed to a
bridge rectifier formed by diodes D1D4, charging the 200µF 350V filter capacitors C1 and C2 up to around 600V
DC. Note that since these capacitors
are in series, they effectively form a
100
Silicon Chip
The valves have a warmup time of about 15 seconds and this has the beneficial
side effect of preventing switch-on surges if a load is connected.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
a short history
1960~1980 was a Golden Age for Australian
manufacturing and electronics was no exception. Back
then, we designed and made test equipment that was
the equal of even world-leading manufacturers such
as Tektronix and Hewlett-Packard.
Our best-known local hero was BWD who supplied
bench, laboratory and storage oscilloscopes, a largescreen (17-inch) oscilloscope, function/sweep/signal
generators and power supplies among other devices.
Founded in 1955 by John Beesley, Peter Wingate
and Bob Dewey, they first occupied premises in
Auburn, Melbourne near the Geebung hotel. Friday
afternoons down the pub would have given a foretaste
of California’s Silicon Valley a decade or so later. The
company prospered, moving to 333 Burke Road, Glen
Iris and ultimately to Mulgrave.
BWD was eventually purchased by McVan Instruments,
which continues business in Mulgrave.
John Beesley remained involved with BWD until
a giveaway at a local TAFE last century. They were ex-lab equipment and
two were in good cosmetic condition
but the third was missing some bits. It
had obviously been Christmas-tree’d
for parts.
I picked the best one and gave it
a good clean-up. I then tested it. I
couldn’t get an output of more than
about 150V DC from the 0-400V supply. This suggested that one of the reference JFETs (Q13 or Q14) was dead,
preventing the full 400V from appearing across voltage adjustment pot RV1.
I replaced both, restoring the 400V output to its full adjustment range.
The 250V output tested OK. All five
valves checked out 100%, so I used
one of BWD’s test sheets (still in the
handbook) to check the other functions of the supply. Some calibrations
were a bit off but were easily brought
back to spec.
The only special components are
the two CA3054 ICs (available online)
and the meter, so any other faults can
be fixed pretty easily.
Note that there is a potential probsiliconchip.com.au
1989 when he went to work for Cochlear, inventors of
the Bionic Ear.
The 216’s Instrument Handbook lists sixty-four parts
suppliers, all either entirely local or local distributors
of overseas products. Oh, for the glory days of Aussie
manufacturing!
BWD gear satisfied educational, service department,
research and scientific consumers. Sound design,
reliability and ease of use made equipment such as
the 216 popular and sought after.
While some designs were intricate, BWD’s local
presence made service data easy to acquire and repairs
could be made quickly and easily.
The 216 was apparently a very successful design.
The set described here has a serial number of 35,109
and the final version of the service manual (Issue 5)
applies to units with serial numbers over 40,000, so at
least that many were made.
lem with this design. If the 100kW output control pot (RV1) goes open circuit, the current source will drag the
reference voltage up towards 600V.
This will greatly exceed C14’s voltage
rating and it could explode. If you are
using a BWD 216 power supply and
the 400V output voltage suddenly skyrockets, turn it off at once.
Replacement wirewound pots are
available online from overseas. Be
sure to get a type with a power rating
of at least 2W. I’ve added 400V zener
chains across RV1 in my 216s so that
if the pot does go open, I’ll just get an
uncontrollable 400V output as a warning, and hopefully no explosions. A
crowbar circuit would be an even more
elegant protection mechanism.
Conclusion
This is a great piece of test gear. Like
many of BWD’s offerings, it’s an example of local Aussie design that compares favourably to the best imports
in its price range.
Applying a full load of 200mA to the
400V supply dropped the output by
Australia’s electronics magazine
only 7mV, a reduction of 0.0017%. The
valve pass elements do mean there’s
an initial warmup delay of some 15
seconds for full operation but that’s
hardly unreasonable.
The two independent supplies
provide lots of options. Some of my
favourite vintage aircraft radio and
television gear requires a +400V HT
supply but also demands a -150V bias
supply and the 216A can easily supply both.
If you see one of these in fair condition, I suggest you snap it up. The most
common fault is an open Output Control pot and a subsequently exploded
electrolytic filter capacitor across the
output terminals (C14).
These faults are easily fixed, and
you’ll have a high-performing, reliable power supply that’ll power all
things “valve” from hearing aids up
to medium-sized valve TVs and most
military radios.
Watch out, though, for a meter with
a detached pointer – the aluminium
used appears to oxidise with age and
fall off.
SC
February 2019 101
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All parts including the PCB and a length of clear heatshrink tubing
MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (DIP-14)
MC1374P A/V modulator IC (DIP-14) (Cat SC4543)
SBK-71K coil former pack (two required) (Cat SC2746)
$15.00
$15.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00 ea.
P&P – $10 Per order#
PARTS FOR THE 6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
one ERA-2SM+ & one ADCH-80A+ (Cat SC1167; two required)
(OCT 17)
$69.90
$15.00/pk.
MICROBRIDGE COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4264)
(MAY 17)
PCB plus all on-board parts including programmed microcontroller (SMD ceramics for 10µF) $20.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2 – COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4237)
(MAY 17)
includes PCB, programmed micro, touchscreen LCD, laser-cut UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
SMD Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other on-board parts
$70.00
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE (CAT SC4140)
hard-to-get parts: Q8-Q16, D2-D4, 150pF/250V capacitor and five SMD resistors
(JAN 17)
$35.00
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB Mouse & Keyboard Adapator, FEB19)
$1.50
LM4865MX amplifier IC & LF50CV regulator (Tinnitus/Insomnia Killer, NOV18)
$10.00
2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module with SD card socket (Tide Clock, JUL18)
$22.50
ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Part 15, APR18)
$5.00
WiFi Antennas with U.FL/IPX connectors (Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi, FEB18):
5dBi – $12.50 ~ 2dBi (omnidirectional) – $10.00
NRF24L01+PA+NA transceiver with SNA connector and antenna (El Cheapo 12, JAN18)
$5.00
WeMos D1 Arduino-compatible boards with WiFi (SEPT17, FEB18):
ThingSpeak data logger – $10.00 ~ WiFi Tank Level Meter (ext. antenna socket) – $15.00
Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player/Recorder, VS1053, JUL17)
$20.00
1nF 1% MKP (5mm lead spacing) or ceramic capacitor (Wide-Range LC Meter, JUN18)
$2.50
MAX7219 LED controller boards (El Cheapo Modules, Part 7, JUN17):
8x8 red SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ~ red 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
AD9833 DDS module (with gain control) (for Micromite DDS, APR17)
$25.00
AD9833 DDS module (no gain control) (El Cheapo Modules, Part 6, APR17)
$15.00
CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
microSD card adaptor (El Cheapo Modules, Part 3, JAN17)
$2.50
DS3231 real-time clock with mounting spacers and screws (El Cheapo, Part 1, OCT16)
$5.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
02/19
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB ONLY. If you want a kit, check our store or contact the kit suppliers advertising in this
issue. For unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
NOTE: Not all PCBs are shown here due to space limits but the Silicon Chip Online Shop has boards going back to 2001 and beyond.
For a complete list of available PCBs etc, go to siliconchip.com.au/shop/8 Prices are PCBs only, NOT COMPLETE KITS!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY
MAY 2014
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
JUN 2014
TOUCHSCREEN AUDIO RECORDER
JUL 2014
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
JUL 2014
MICROMITE ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
JUL 2014
FREQUENCY COUNTER ADD-ON
JUL 2014
TEMPMASTER MK3
AUG 2014
44-PIN MICROMITE
AUG 2014
OPTO-THEREMIN MAIN BOARD
SEP 2014
OPTO-THEREMIN PROXIMITY SENSOR BOARD
SEP 2014
ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL PROBE BOARDS
SEP 2014
MINI-D AMPLIFIER
SEP 2014
COURTESY LIGHT DELAY
OCT 2014
DIRECT INJECTION (D-I) BOX
OCT 2014
DIGITAL EFFECTS UNIT
OCT 2014
DUAL PHANTOM POWER SUPPLY
NOV 2014
REMOTE MAINS TIMER
NOV 2014
REMOTE MAINS TIMER PANEL/LID (BLUE)
NOV 2014
ONE-CHIP AMPLIFIER
NOV 2014
TDR DONGLE
DEC 2014
MULTISPARK CDI FOR PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG STEREO VALVE AMPLIFIER MAIN BOARD
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG REMOTE CONTROL BOARD
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG CLEAR ACRYLIC COVER
JAN 2015
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE
JAN 2015
SPARK ENERGY METER MAIN BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
SPARK ENERGY ZENER BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
SPARK ENERGY METER CALIBRATOR BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
LOW-FREQUENCY DISTORTION ANALYSER
APR 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR MAIN PCB
MAY 2015
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR FRONT & REAR PANELS MAY 2015
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC
DEC 2015
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
PRECISION 50/60Hz TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
JUN 2016
UNIVERSAL TEMPERATURE ALARM
JULY 2016
BROWNOUT PROTECTOR MK2
JULY 2016
8-DIGIT FREQUENCY METER
AUG 2016
APPLIANCE ENERGY METER
AUG 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 64
AUG 2016
CYCLIC PUMP/MAINS TIMER
SEPT 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 (4 layer)
SEPT 2016
AUTOMOTIVE FAULT DETECTOR
SEPT 2016
PCB CODE:
Price:
18104141 $20.00
01205141 $20.00
01105141 $12.50
99106141 $10.00
24107141
$7.50
04105141a/b $15.00
21108141 $15.00
24108141
$5.00
23108141 $15.00
23108142
$5.00
04107141/2 $10.00/set
01110141
$5.00
05109141
$7.50
23109141
$5.00
01110131 $15.00
18112141 $10.00
19112141 $10.00
19112142 $15.00
01109141
$5.00
04112141
$5.00
05112141 $10.00
01111141 $50.00
01111144
$5.00
01111142/3 $30.00/set
SC2892
$25.00
04108141 $10.00
05101151 $10.00
05101152 $10.00
05101153
$5.00
04103151 $10.00
04103152 $10.00
04104151
$5.00
04203151/2 $15.00
04203153 $15.00
04105151 $15.00
04105152/3 $20.00
18105151
$5.00
04106151
$7.50
04106152
$2.50
04106153
$5.00
04104151
$5.00
01109121/2 $7.50
15105151 $10.00
15105152
$5.00
18107151
$2.50
04108151
$2.50
16101141
$7.50
01107151 $15.00
15108151 $15.00
18107152
$2.50
01205141 $20.00
01109111 $15.00
07108151
$7.50
03109151/2 $15.00
01110151 $10.00
19110151 $15.00
19111151 $15.00
04101161
$5.00
04101162 $10.00
01101161 $15.00
01101162 $20.00
05102161 $15.00
16101161 $15.00
07102121
$7.50
07102122
$7.50
11111151
$6.00
05102161 $15.00
04103161
$5.00
03104161
$5.00
04116011/2 $15.00
04104161 $15.00
24104161
$5.00
01104161 $15.00
03106161
$5.00
03105161
$5.00
10107161 $10.00
04105161 $10.00
04116061 $15.00
07108161
$5.00
10108161/2 $10.00/pair
07109161 $20.00
05109161 $10.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
MOSQUITO LURE
OCT 2016
25110161
$5.00
MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
16109161
$5.00
MINI MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
16109162
$2.50
50A BATTERY CHARGER CONTROLLER
NOV 2016
11111161 $10.00
PASSIVE LINE TO PHONO INPUT CONVERTER
NOV 2016
01111161
$5.00
MICROMITE PLUS LCD BACKPACK
NOV 2016
07110161
$7.50
AUTOMOTIVE SENSOR MODIFIER
DEC 2016
05111161 $10.00
TOUCHSCREEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT REFERENCE
DEC 2016
04110161 $12.50
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE
JAN 2017
01108161 $10.00
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. CONTROL BOARD
JAN 2017
11112161 $10.00
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. MOSFET BOARD
JAN 2017
11112162 $12.50
GPS SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
FEB 2017
04202171 $10.00
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER
FEB 2017
16110161
$2.50
POOL LAP COUNTER
MAR 2017
19102171 $15.00
STATIONMASTER TRAIN CONTROLLER
MAR 2017
09103171/2 $15.00/set
EFUSE
APR 2017
04102171
$7.50
SPRING REVERB
APR 2017
01104171 $12.50
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MAY 2017
04112162
$7.50
MICROBRIDGE
MAY 2017
24104171
$2.50
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
MAY 2017
07104171
$7.50
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER PCB
JUN 2017
01105171 $12.50
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER FRONT PANEL JUN 2017
01105172 $15.00
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER CASE PIECES
JUN 2017
SC4281
$15.00
RAPIDBRAKE
JUL 2017
05105171 $10.00
DELUXE EFUSE
AUG 2017
18106171 $15.00
DELUXE EFUSE UB1 LID
AUG 2017
SC4316
$5.00
MAINS SUPPLY FOR BATTERY VALVES (INC. PANELS)
AUG 2017
18108171-4 $25.00
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
SEPT 2017
01108171 $20.00
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER PANELS
SEPT 2017
01108172/3 $20.00/pair
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER CASE PIECES SEPT 2017
SC4403
$10.00
6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
OCT 2017
04110171 $10.00
KELVIN THE CRICKET
OCT 2017
08109171 $10.00
6GHz+ FREQUENCY COUNTER CASE PIECES (SET)
DEC 2017
SC4444
$15.00
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO PCB
DEC 2017
06111171 $25.00
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO CASE PIECES
DEC 2017
SC4464
$25.00
THEREMIN
JAN 2018
23112171 $12.50
PROPORTIONAL FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
JAN 2018
05111171
$2.50
WATER TANK LEVEL METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
FEB 2018
21110171
$7.50
10-LED BARAGRAPH
FEB 2018
04101181
$7.50
10-LED BARAGRAPH SIGNAL PROCESSING
FEB 2018
04101182
$5.00
TRIAC-BASED MAINS MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MAR 2018
10102181 $10.00
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
MAR 2018
02104181
$7.50
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
MAR 2018
06101181
$7.50
HEATER CONTROLLER
APR 2018
10104181 $10.00
DELUXE FREQUENCY SWITCH
MAY 2018
05104181
$7.50
USB PORT PROTECTOR
MAY 2018
07105181
$2.50
2 x 12V BATTERY BALANCER
MAY 2018
14106181
$2.50
USB FLEXITIMER
JUNE 2018
19106181
$7.50
WIDE-RANGE LC METER
JUNE 2018
04106181
$5.00
WIDE-RANGE LC METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
JUNE 2018
SC4618
$7.50
WIDE-RANGE LC METER CLEAR CASE PIECES
JUNE 2018
SC4609
$7.50
TEMPERATURE SWITCH MK2
JUNE 2018
05105181
$7.50
LiFePO4 UPS CONTROL SHIELD
JUNE 2018
11106181
$5.00
RASPBERRY PI TOUCHSCREEN ADAPTOR (TIDE CLOCK) JULY 2018
24108181
$5.00
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER
JULY 2018
19107181
$5.00
BRAINWAVE MONITOR (EEG)
AUG 2018
25107181 $10.00
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS
AUG 2018
01107181
$2.50
DOOR ALARM
AUG 2018
03107181
$5.00
STEAM WHISTLE / DIESEL HORN
SEPT 2018
09106181
$5.00
DCC PROGRAMMER
OCT 2018
09107181
$5.00
DCC PROGRAMMER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
OCT 2018
09107181
$7.50
OPTO-ISOLATED RELAY (WITH EXTENSION BOARDS)
OCT 2018
10107181/2 $7.50
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE
NOV 2018
04107181
$7.50
1 x LED CHRISTMAS TREE
NOV 2018
16107181
$5.00
4 x LED CHRISTMAS TREE
$18.00
18 x LED CHRISTMAS TREE
$72.00
31 x LED CHRISTMAS TREE
$120.00
38 x LED CHRISTMAS TREE
$145.00
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE
NOV 2018
16107182
$2.50
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (JAYCAR VERSION)
NOV 2018
01110181
$5.00
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (ALTRONICS VERSION)
NOV 2018
01110182
$5.00
HIGH-SENSITIVITY MAGNETOMETER
DEC 2018
04101011 $12.50
USELESS BOX
DEC 2018
08111181
$7.50
FOUR-CHANNEL DC FAN & PUMP CONTROLLER
DEC 2018
05108181
$5.00
ATtiny816 DEVELOPMENT/BREAKOUT BOARD
JAN 2019
24110181
$5.00
ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
JAN 2019
24107181
$5.00
NEW PCBs
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MAIN PCB
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MOUNTING PLATE
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER EXTENSION PCB
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD) PCB
USB MOUSE AND KEYBOARD ADAPTOR PCB
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
10111191
10111192
10111193
05102191
24311181
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
WE ALSO SELL AN A2 REACTANCE WALLCHART, RADIO, TV & HOBBIES DVD PLUS VARIOUS BOOKs IN THE “Books, DVDs, etc” PAGE AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP/3
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Legality and safety of
mains equipment
I have been a reader and subscriber
of your magazine for many years. Recently, I disassembled the failed controller of a domestic rainwater pump
and discovered something that I would
consider dangerous.
The Triac on the back of the controller board is connected directly to the
Active conductor of the mains supply and turns the pump on and off. It
is mounted on an Earthed metal plate
that is in direct contact with the water
delivered to the house. Is this legal and
is it safe? (M. W., Murray Bridge, SA)
• That construction method is safe
and legal. The metal plate is Earthed
and the water is only making contact
with the Earthed metal plate. The Triac
would be an isolated tab type where its
metal tab is not connected to any of the
Triac pins. This isolates the Triac pin
connections from the mains Active.
The construction method is no different to any of the Triac mains controllers that Silicon Chip have published
where the Triac tab is secured to the
Earthed metal case. We use an isolated
tab Triac in these projects.
In the distant past at Electronics
Australia, before isolated tab Triacs
were available, the non-isolated tab
Triacs were attached to the Earthed
metal case using an insulating mica
washer and insulation bush.
Mains wiring does not
radiate much EMI
Is there any way to “clean up” the
household mains Earth? As the mains
Earth is running parallel to the Active
wire in the household power circuit,
there must be some kind of induction
there, especially for some of the units
at a distance from the switch-room
Earth. As in the power circuit, there
must be an amount of hash-type interference, surely. So how can I eliminate
it? (D. S., Penshurst, NSW)
• There is no need to “clean up” your
household mains Earth wiring. In real104
Silicon Chip
ity, there is not a great deal of interference conducted by mains wiring when
you have the Active, Neutral and Earth
wires closely coupled, as in a 3-core
mains cord or 3-core mains cabling
in a house.
As you say, there is induction between the Active and Earth (also to
Neutral) but it is this very coupling
which mostly causes cancellation of
the magnetic fields produced by the
Active, Neutral and Earth wires. In any
case, the voltages in the Earth wiring
usually are very small, and any mains
hash on the Earth wiring would be
very small.
Help to find op amp for
Tinnitus Killer
I am building the Insomnia and Tinnitus killer project, published in your
November 2018 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11308).
The LMC6482AIN dual CMOS op
amp is not listed in the Jaycar or Altronics catalogs. Can I use Jaycar Cat
ZL3482 instead? (C. T., via email)
• ZL3482 is the Jaycar catalog code
for the part that we specified, an
LMC6482AIN dual op amp. You can
verify this by going to www.jaycar.
com.au and typing “ZL3482” in the
search box. Then scroll to the description at the bottom of the item which
appears and you will see that it has
the correct part code.
Full-Wave Motor Speed
Controller 5V supply
I am confused about the 5V supply to the Full-Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller (March 2018:
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10998).
Before fitting the microcontroller
and wiring the speed pot, I (very,
very) carefully powered the circuit
and measured the micro’s supply pins.
I was expecting 5.1V but got 4.6V.
Checking further, I found only 5.5V
across the 12V zener diode, implying
a current of about 18mA through the
47W resistor.
Australia’s electronics magazine
I injected power from my bench
supply into the 1kW resistor at up to
30V without getting 5V on the micro’s
supply. I then removed and tested the
5.1V zener and the “penny dropped”.
This is a 1W zener diode which
has a test current of 49mA. So it was
conducting enough current at 4.6V to
prevent the supply voltage from rising
any higher. The voltage across the 12V
zener in this condition was about 5.5V.
So, the 12V zener appears to be superfluous and perhaps a 400mW zener
(rated at a maximum of 70mA) would
be a better option for 5.1V regulation.
I’d add that our line voltage here is
typically 246VAC, sometimes rising
to 254VAC due to solar generation. (I.
T., via email)
• The 12V zener is there just to protect the supply capacitor should the
47W resistor go open-circuit. It is not
used to clamp at 12V when the circuit
is operating normally with the 47W resistor intact. The actual supply voltage
for the micro is not critical and a 4.6V
supply is fine.
Battery-powered Steam
Whistle/Diesel Horn
I would like to build the Steam
Whistle/Diesel Horn project in the
September 2018 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11226) and have a couple of questions about it.
I’m building it for a train-mad preschool-age grandchild, so it needs to
be self-contained. Will it work with
an inbuilt battery of 3 x 1.5V AA/
AAA cells?
Alternatively, if I used a 6V battery
with a 7805 regulator, would 100µF
be the correct value for the capacitor?
I was also thinking of omitting
CON2 and its associated circuitry, just
using S1 and putting it all (including
the speaker) in a Jiffy box.
If I replace JP4 with a single-pole
toggle switch and then set up JP1-3 to
the horn sound I want, can the child
get either a whistle or horn sound as
she wishes?
Meanwhile, the grandparents will
siliconchip.com.au
be waiting for the batteries to go flat!
Many thanks and it was a great issue,
as always. (J. F., Ivanhoe, Vic)
• Yes, you can run the Steam Whistle/
Diesel Horn from 3 x 1.5V AA or AAA
cells. Running off 6V (4 x 1.5V) with a
regulator would be OK but you should
use a low-dropout 1A type rather than
the 7805. That is because the 7805 does
not regulate to a 5V output with a 6V
input – it needs at least 6.5V at the input for regulation.
You could use an LM2940CT-5.0
low-dropout regulator. This requires a
22µF output capacitor although 100µF
will be OK, and an input capacitor of
at least 470nF.
JP4 can be replaced with a switch
to select the steam train or diesel horn
sound. The whole unit and speaker can
be placed in a box as you suggest. You
can omit the CON2, Q1 and the two
10kW resistors at Q1’s base if only S1
is required to trigger the sound.
Building a complete
SC200 amplifier
I want to build a complete stereo amplifier using your SC200 module design (January-March 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/308). I am planning on
building the modules using Altronics
K5157 kits but I have a few questions:
1) Are the Altronics Cat K5168 Power Supply and Cat K5167 Speaker Protector boards compatible and recommended for the SC200 amplifier?
2) Is there a single transformer you
can recommend to power both the amplifier modules and speaker protector?
3) Will there be a complete kit
(which includes the chassis, transformer etc) for the SC200 as there
was for the now-discontinued Ultra
Low Distortion Mk.3 amplifier? (M.
K., via email)
• In response to your first question,
yes, those are the Altronics kits for
the power supply board and speaker
protector that we recommended to use
with the SC200 (see pages 75 and 80
of the March 2017 issue).
Unfortunately, Altronics have discontinued both the 40-0-40 transformer with auxiliary windings that we
used in the Ultra-LD Mk.3 (and recommended for the SC200) and also their
standard 40-0-40V transformer, along
with the vented rackmount case that
we built the Ultra-LD Mk.3 into.
For the transformer, you could use
their Cat MC5535 which is a 300VA
siliconchip.com.au
type with auxiliary windings but
it’s 35-0-35V (rather than the 40-040V we designed the modules for),
so maximum power delivery will be
reduced to around 100W into 8W or
150W into 4W.
Alternatively, you could get a 300500VA 40-0-40V transformer from
another source and use a second,
smaller 15-0-15V transformer to power the preamplifier (eg, Altronics Cat
M4915B).
Sadly, we don’t think the demand
exists to support full amplifier kits any
more. Since we published the SC200
around two years ago and no full amplifier kit has been announced, we
doubt one will be produced.
The good news is that once you’ve
built the modules, power supply and
speaker protector and sourced the
transformer, you just need a case, a
preamplifier and a few other sundries
(bridge rectifier, wiring etc).
As we mentioned above, the vented rackmount case that we used for
the Ultra-LD Mk.3 is unfortunately
no longer available, so you will need
to search for a suitable case, keeping
in mind that it will need to be around
500mm deep to fit all the modules
comfortably. It will also need good
ventilation to allow hot air to escape
and fresh air to flow in.
You could use the Bud Industries
3-unit high extra-deep rack-mounting
case in which we housed our UPS project (May-July 2018; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/323). It isn’t expensive but it
is bare aluminium so you would probably want to paint it black.
As for the preamplifier module,
we’re currently working on a remotecontrolled low-noise preamplifier design that incorporates bass/treble tone
controls.
If you don’t need tone controls, use
our Ultra-LD Stereo Preamplifier &
Input Selector (November-December
2011; siliconchip.com.au/Series/34).
It comprises three PCB assemblies.
The main assembly is available as a
kit from Altronics, Cat K5169. If you
want the input selection capability,
you can purchase the two additional PCBs from our Online Shop, Cat
SC0702 & SC0704.
Questions about SC200
amplifier design
I have started building a stereo power amplifier using the 75W versions of
Australia’s electronics magazine
your SC200 amplifier modules (January-March 2017). I have four questions:
1) I forgot to order the BAV21 diodes
from Digi-Key that sit between the collector of Q8 and base of Q7. Is it feasible to use IN4148 instead, because the
rails are only +42V and -42V?
2) The KSA1220A and KSC2690A
transistors I received don’t have the
exposed metal at the back, but are
completely encapsulated in plastic.
Will these work OK? I intend to mount
them on the heatsink without silicone
washers.
3) On page 81 of the February 2017
issue, it states that BC856 SMD transistors can be used for Q1 and Q2, yet the
circuit diagram on page 30 of January
2017 issue shows the SMD alterative
as BCM856Ds, which are dual matched
PNP transistors. Which is correct?
4) The BC556 transistors that I got
from my local electronics retailer have
a different pinout than those shown
on the January 2017 circuit diagram;
the emitter and collector leads are reversed. Is this due to a mistake on the
circuit diagram? (D. C., Rotorua, NZ)
• 1) It’s possible that if you use a
1N4148 for D2, instead of the BAV21
we specified, its peak inverse voltage
(PIV) rating could be exceeded. Consider that the base of Q7 sits around
1.2V above the negative rail and that
the collector of Q9 can probably swing
to within a couple of volts of the positive rail.
There will be around 2.4V between
the collector of Q9 and the cathode of
D2, set by Q10 and VR1, so the maximum voltage across D2 would be 78.4V
(42V + 42V - 1.2V - 2.0V - 2.4V). That
is just barely above the 75V rating of
a 1N4148 so it probably would work
but you’d be sailing awfully close to
the wind.
The capacitance of the 1N4148 is
comparable to that of the BAV21 at the
same test voltage, so a 1N4148 should
not affect the performance.
2) The data sheet does not explicitly show a metal back on these transistors. It does say they are in a TO-126
package, which implies a metal back
(ie, not TO-126F), butwe think that is
just vagueness in the data sheet. Despite what the data sheet says, it seems
that the genuine article is actually in a
TO-126F fully enclosed package.
In that case, it’s true that you do not
need washers to mount them on the
heatsink. Just use a smear of thermal
paste and a regular metal screw.
February 2019 105
3) You are right that these transistors
should be specified as BCM856D, not
BC856. Note that there are some dual
transistors which have part codes that
(confusingly) start with BC856.
4) The pinout for the BC556 shown
in our circuit diagram is correct. You
can download and check the BC556
data sheet yourself if you want to
verify that. The transistors you purchased must have been incorrectly
manufactured or mislabelled. The
BC556 pinout has not changed since
its inception decades ago.
Help finding in-car USB
charger article
I have a memory of an article you
published about someone installing a
USB power supply inside the interior
light of his car, to avoid having to run
power cables across the dashboard of
the car to power a dashcam.
There was a power supply kit, and
photos of how the author carefully cut
a hole in the light fitting for a professional look.
I haven’t been able to find the kit
on the Jaycar website, or your website
either. Not knowing what the article
was called makes things a bit tricky.
Can you help me? The first car company that provides a USB power outlet in the interior light fitting will be
selling a lot more of their cars! (M. W.,
via email)
• We are reasonably sure that the
article you are referring to is the project from July 2015 titled “Install
USB Charging Points In Your Car”
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/8676).
We have a kit for that project in our
Online Shop (siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/20/3040)
There is also a version with a lowbattery cutout feature (siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/20/3102). See the update in the September 2015 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/8957).
Query about car USB
charger PCB
I have finally finished building the
July 2015 USB Charging Points project
for Cars, except for fitting the USB connector. I have elected to use a single
socket, Jaycar Cat PS0196, as this is
the only one the local (New Zealand)
Jaycar stockist had.
The PCB that I bought from your
Online Shop, coded 18107151, is quite
different to the one shown in Fig.7
on page 40 of the July 2015 issue, in
terms of the layout around the USB
connectors.
While my USB connector will fit
into the PCB OK, I am unable to access the USB connector pads as shown
in Fig.9 on page 42 to join the two inner pads (D+ and D-). Do I need to
join the two pads or has the PCB I received been modified, obviating the
need to do this? (R. K., Auckland,
New Zealand)
• The caption for Fig.7 states “Note
that the photo shows a prototype PCB
assembly.” Your board is the final
board, modified to suit the specified
USB sockets. That is why it looks different. It sounds like your socket fits
the board, which is good.
You do need to join the two pads
after soldering the connector. It isn’t
absolutely required but some devices
may expect it or may draw more current when it is done. You can do it by
simply running a solder blob over both
middle pins of the connector.
Reverse Loop
Controller confusion
I am building the Automatic Reverse Loop Controller for DCC model
railways from the October 2012 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/494).
The circuit diagram shows the value of the resistor from the +5V supply
to OPTO2 as 330W but the PCB overlay diagram, parts list and the PCB I
purchased show its value to be 390W.
Which is the right value? (T. S., Leeston, New Zealand)
• You are right that there is a discrepancy in the article. It seems that either
value would work but we would be
inclined to use 330W as shown on the
circuit diagram, since that will give the
LED in OPTO2 a little more current,
which is a good idea since the 4N28
has a poor current transfer ratio (CTR)
of about 10%.
By the way, there is another error
in the circuit diagram – OPTO2 is labelled as a 2N28, which does not exist.
It should be 4N28, the same as OPTO1.
Which controller to use
for 12V SLA battery
Is it OK to charge my Mazda 3 Q-85
stop-start battery with the Add-on Regulator Kit design from the July 1997
issue of Electronics Australia? I don’t
Using potted transducers for Ultrasonic Cleaner
I purchased an Ultrasonic Cleaner
kit (August 2010; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/244) from Jaycar some
time ago and assembled it. The potted ultrasonic transducer has never
seemed to work properly and as a result, has been sitting in storage until
now. I would like to get it running.
Measuring the output using a
scope shows that the no-load square
wave Vmax ÷ Vmin is approximately
+152/-148V. The shape of the waveform is reasonably symmetrical. The
frequency varies but is in range of
41.0-43.6kHz.
I would have thought that the peak
106
Silicon Chip
voltage would be closer to 250V,
given the description on the Jaycar
kit (“Transducer voltage: 250VAC
square wave”).
I’m powering it from a wall adaptor
(12V, 2.5A output) and also used a
standalone bench power supply for
testing.
I found no difference in operation
between these. The bench supply
shows a current of 1-1.5A.
Is performance as expected? If
not, what could be the cause? Any
advice would be appreciated! (W. F.,
Atherton, Qld)
• We hope you are not using the
Australia’s electronics magazine
pre-potted transducer that is used in
the Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling for Boat
project. That is not suitable for use
in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Hopefully, the transducer has been
potted and attached to the cleaner
tub as described in our article from
the August 2010 issue.
You should get the same peak-topeak voltage as shown in our oscilloscope waveforms on page 62. The
RMS voltage shown (138V) is close
to what you measured.
A low output voltage could be a
sign of a faulty transformer where a
winding is shorted.
siliconchip.com.au
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Since its introduction in February 2016,
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There are three versions of the Micromite BackPack: the original V1, published February 2016; the Micromite PLUS, published in November
2016, and now there’s the V2 BackPack published in May 2017. The main difference between the V1 and V2 versions is the V2 can be plugged
straight into a computer USB for easy programming or re-programming “in situ”, while the V1 requires a separate programmer – YES, if you
wish the Micromite can be programmed over and over again, for published projects, or for you to develop your own masterpiece!
The Micromite is programmed in a version of BASIC so it’s quite easy to learn and write your own!
Micromite BackPack V1 – Feb 16
The Micromite LCD BackPack
combines a full colour touchsensitive LCD panel with a lowcost 32-bit microcontroller running
a BASIC interpreter. It packs an incredible
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and will leave you thinking up project after
project where you could put it to good use.
KIT INCLUDES:
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Microcontroller (programmed with your choice) and IC socket
3.3V low-dropout regulator
All capacitors (ceramic types supplied)
10kΩ resistor and 100Ω trimpot
Pin headers (male and female)
Tapped spacers and machine screws
UB3 lid (laser-cut 3mm acrylic)
Micromite BackPack V1 Kit (Cat SC3321) – $65.00
Micromite Plus BackPack – Nov 16 Micromite BackPack V2! – May 17
We have taken the best
features of the Micromite
LCD Backpack and the
Explore 64 and put them
together onto a single board. Use it to
supercharge your BackPack project or just as a
convenient and cost-effective controller module.
KIT INCLUDES:
PCB, 2.8-inch touchscreen and lid
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT (programmed with your choice)
3.3V LDO regulator plus Mosfets for PWM control backlight
MCP120-270 supply supervisor
20MHz low-profile crystal
green SMD LED
micro USB & microSD sockets
SMD tactile switch
SMD capacitors and resistors
pin headers and shorting block
mounting hardware
Micromite BackPack PLUS Kit (Cat SC4024) – $70.00
The latest version of the
Micromite LCD BackPack
incorporates the Microbridge, which adds a USB
interface and the ability to
program/reprogram the PIC32 chip while it's
onboard. And the BackPack V2 also adds
software control over the LCD backlight.
KIT INCLUDES:
PCB (green)
2.8-inch touchscreen with 320x240 pixels
Programmed microcontrollers and IC sockets
Mosfets for PWM-controlled backlight dimming
3.3V low-dropout regulator
All capacitors (ceramic types supplied)
2 1kΩ & 2 10kΩ resistors
Pin headers (male and female)
UB3 lid (laser-cut 3mm acrylic)
Tapped spacers, machine screws and Nylon washers
Micromite BackPack PLUS V2 Kit (Cat SC4327) – $70.00
Individual PCBs and microcontrollers are also available separately for all Micromite BackPacks
Specialised components for MICROMITE BACKPACK projects published in SILICON CHIP
Parking Assistant
Black/clear/blue UB5 lid & ultrasonic sensor: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3338
Boat Computer
VK2828U7G5LF GPS module with antenna and cable:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3362
Super Clock
VK2828U7G5LF GPS module with antenna and cable:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3362
DS3231 real-time clock (RTC) with mounting hardware:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3491
DS3231+ rechargeable LIR2032 cell: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3519
Energy Meter
DS3231 real-time clock (RTC) with mounting hardware:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3491
DS3231 + rechargeable LIR2032 cell siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3519
ACS718 20A isolated current monitor IC: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4022
Main PCB [04116061 RevI]: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8/4043
Matte black UB1 lid: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/19/3538
$7.50
$25.00
$25.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$15.00
$10.00
Voltage/Current Reference
Short form kit:
All parts including PCB, but not including the BackPack module, case,
power supply, PCB pins and wire siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/3987
Matte black or blue UB1 lid: SC4084/SC4193
Main PCB [04110161] as separate item: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8/3988
$99.00
$10.00
$12.50
DDS Signal Generator
AD9833 DDS module: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4205
$25.00
Deluxe eFuse
IPP80P03P4L04 P-channel Mosfet (2 rqd): siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4318
LT1490ACN8 op amp (2 rqd): siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4319
BUK7909-75AIE N-channel SenseFET (2 rqd): siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4317
Main PCB [18106171] siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8/4370
Matte black UB1 lid: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/19/4316
$4.00
$7.50
$7.50
$12.50
$7.50
Radio IF Alignment
AD9833 DDS: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4205
$25.00
Altimeter/Weather Station
DHT22/AM2302 temp. & humidity sensor: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4150
$7.50
1A/500mA Li-ion/LiPo charger board: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4308
$15.00
GY-68 pressure/altitude/temperature sensor: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4343 $5.00
5V 0.8W 160mA solar panel: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4339
$4.00
Tariff Super Clock
VK2828U7G5LF GPS module with antenna and cable:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3362
DS3231 real-time clock (RTC) with mounting hardware:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3491
$25.00
$5.00
GPS-synched Frequency Reference
Short form kit:
All SMD parts and PCB. Not including BackPack module, case, power supply, GPS
module, connectors and a few through-hole parts:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/4762
$80.00
VK2828U7G5LF GPS module with antenna and cable:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3362
$25.00
Main PCB [04107181] as a separate item: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8/4728
$7.50
FOR MORE DETAILS ON ANY OF THESE BACKPACK PROJECTS OR COMPONENTS,
LOG ONTO SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP AND SEARCH FOR THE ITEM OF INTEREST
use the car very often and the battery
drops to 12.1-12.3V. (J. C., Cambridge
Gardens, NSW)
• While you could use that circuit, it
is an old design and we cannot recommend it. We suggest that you instead
consider building our much more recent Charge Controller For 12V LeadAcid or SLA Batteries, from the April
2008 issue of Silicon Chip magazine
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/1796).
Charging 4A SLA
battery
I purchased a large torch from a certain European retail chain and got suspicious when the instructions said to
charge it for no more than 15 hours.
When I pulled the torch apart, I found
a 4V 4Ah SLA, with just a power resistor to limit the charging current.
As far as I know, SLAs have to be
charged/trickled at a constant voltage,
so have you ever published a suitable
charger that can be adapted?
The battery itself says “Voltage
regulation: 4.80V - 5.00V”, “Standby
use: 4.05V - 4.15V”, and “Max charging current: 1.20A”. I suppose that I
could use a mechanical timer, but I’d
prefer something more elegant. (D. H.,
Gosford, NSW)
• The resistor would be to limit the
maximum charge current when the
battery was being charged from flat. As
its voltage increases, the current falls
and eventually, it tapers off to a low
current when fully charged.
As long as the termination voltage is
not too high (around 4.04-4.15V) or the
charging time is limited, such charging
schemes will not hurt an SLA.
We have not published a charger
for the 4V SLA battery (we have published 12V, 24V and 48V versions) but
the charger with your torch should be
suitable. You could run it off a mains
timer to ensure that the 15-hour maximum charge period is not exceeded.
Or you could use our VersaTimer/Switch With Self-Latching Relay project from the June 2011 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/1038).
This could be powered from the battery charger and connected to interrupt
the charge current to the torch after
the charger has been on for 15 hours.
CLASSiC-D shuts down
when clipping
I love the audio-related articles written by John Clarke. I recently built a
CLASSiC-D Class-D amplifier module and was quite impressed with the
results. On testing with voltage rails
of ±42V DC, I achieved 160W into 8W
which is really impressive.
But I find that when the amplifier
begins to clip, it starts “stuttering” –
shutting down, restarting, run LED
blinking. Is this because it isn’t getting
enough voltage/current?
I also want to ask about LK3, the
“force protect” mode jumper, which is
normally only used during testing. It
shorts the collector and emitter of Q9,
bringing the protector module PCB input low. Can this be used as a “mute”
function without adverse effect on the
amplifier module, eg, for disconnecting the speakers when headphones
are plugged in?
Making the most of a DSO and differential probes
I would like to suggest a series of
articles on using a DSO. I will admit to having an ulterior motive as
have just purchased a fully optioned
up Rigol DS1054Z scope; thanks to
Emona for giving me a good deal. I
want to get the most out of this feature-packed machine.
It comes with a very good instruction manual which explains how to
access all the features. What is missing, for me at least, is the reason for
using each feature and setting and
the best way to combine them.
Back in the day, I completed the
old E & C course at Gore Hill TAFE
and worked as a technical office for
the old OTC, however, I will admit
I’ve forgotten more than I remember.
I’ve had a look around on the interweb for anything on using a DSO
and found a few pages from last century and a few very basic YouTube
tutorials.
So there appears to be an opportunity here. I cannot be the only person who would benefit from this information among your subscribers.
On a similar topic, I would like
to have a wideband isolated (differ108
Silicon Chip
ential) probe but can’t afford a commercial unit.
Dave Jones from EEVBlog reviewed a good one but it cost more
than I paid for the DS1054. I wonder
how they get a CAT III rating with
70MHz bandwidth? I cannot find
any optical or magnetic isolation devices that have a linear bandwidth
approaching 70MHz.
I have seen your September
2014 Wideband Active Differential
Probe design (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/7995), which has decent
bandwidth (~80MHz) but it isn’t
isolating and it has no option for
DC-coupling.
The Isolating High Voltage
Probe from the January 2015 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/8244)
does not have the same bandwidth
(only about 1MHz). Are there any
new isolated probe designs in the
pipeline? (B. P., Murrumbateman,
NSW)
• We think you will find that many
commercial differential probes do
not provide optical or magnetic isolation.
They will simply be using differAustralia’s electronics magazine
ential amplifiers with high-voltage
rated input resistors, similar to our
September 2014 design. It’s still
possible to achieve Cat III rating if
the correct parts are used (and it’s
safe enough) but they do have their
limitations.
I don’t think our Wideband probe
(September 2014) would cost all that
much to put together. It certainly has
a lot more bandwidth and less noise
than many commercial probes, but
is more limited in its selection of
voltage ranges and the fact that its
inputs are AC-coupled.
We should revisit that project and
design a probe with a similar bandwidth, the option for DC coupling
and a wider range of voltage divider options, some suitable for use in
high-voltage circuits.
It would also be good if it had
a BNC input socket, to which you
could attach a standard probe.
We will consider producing an article or articles on using a DSO but it
would be difficult to make it applicable to all the different brands and
models that are available. It would
have to be very general.
siliconchip.com.au
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Would both modules (in a stereo
configuration) have to be both forced
into mute mode when using the protector relay board, or does it not matter, as the relay will disconnect both
speakers anyway? I want to use a
separate headphone amplifier and a
subwoofer controller with a separate
mute relay.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (J. N., Mount Nelson, Tas)
• The shutting down process which
is causing this stuttering is probably
due to a low voltage brought about by
the high demands on the power supply
when driving the load into clipping.
Make sure the low voltage detect
resistors are correct for your supply
voltage and that the power supply has
sufficient current capability to prevent
the voltage from collapsing under load.
The speaker protection feature disconnects both speakers in a stereo configuration, so a separate mute function
is not needed.
As you suggest, if you use a transistor to bridge the pins of LK3 on one
module, that is equivalent to a DC
fault being detected. So in addition
to the module being shut down, the
speaker protector will be activated,
disconnecting both speakers in a stereo configuration.
Pot core and bobbin for
Capacitor Reformer
I want to build the Electrolytic Capacitor Reformer & Tester design which
you published in the August and September 2010 issues (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/10). I am having difficulty
sourcing the two ferrite pot core halves
(26mm outside diameter, 16mm high)
with matching bobbin.
I did find some without the bobbin
and I found others with bobbin but
with incorrect dimensions. Can you
please advise where to buy or provide
part numbers I can search for? (R. D.,
Dublin, Ireland)
• You can get the pot core halves
and bobbins from Jaycar (Cat LF1060/
LF1062) or Altronics (Cat L5300/
L5305). They are also available from
Tronixlabs, see: siliconchip.com.au/
link/aam2
Digi-Key has parts with identical
dimensions, although the core material may be different and we have not
tested them in this design. The bobbin
is Cat 1779-1341-ND and the cores are
Cat 1779-1131-ND.
The properties of the 3C91 core material in the Digi-Key core are similar
to, but not identical to, the F5A material used in the Altronics core (3C91
appears to have lower losses). So you
may have to change the number of
turns wound onto the bobbin to get
equivalent performance.
Building a Coolant
Level Alarm
I want to build the Coolant Level
Alarm project which was published
in the June 1994 issue of Silicon
Chip magazine. It uses a PCB coded
05305941. Is it available as a kit or as
a bare PCB?
Perhaps there is a newer version of
this project that does a similar job. (P.
B., Maryborough, Qld)
• There is no kit available for the 1994
Coolant Level Alarm, nor do we have
any PCBs for that project; in general,
we stock PCBs from projects published
in 2010 onwards, plus a handful of
popular projects from earlier years.
The only thing we do have for that
project is a PDF file with the PCB artwork in it, which could be printed and
used as a mask to etch a PCB.
However, it would probably be easier to build our Universal Temperature
Alarm design from the July 2016 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9999) and
use the liquid level sensor as described
in the 1994 Coolant Level Alarm article instead of the temperature sensor.
All you need to do then is change the
2.2kW resistor between the sensor and
supply rail to a 100kW resistor.
This project is available as a kit from
Altronics (Cat K1137). We suggest that
you change REG1 to an LM2940CT-5.0
type instead of a 7805 to provide better protection against transient voltage
spikes, which are common in automotive applications. We also suggest that
you use a 22µF electrolytic capacitor
at the regulator output instead of the
100µF value in the original design.
Note that we have a PCB available
for this project in our Online Shop
(siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8/3483).
Why do batteries leak more in modern equipment?
I don’t know whether anybody
else has noticed this but, since the
advent of LEDs, equipment is being
destroyed at a rapid rate by battery
corrosion.
Initially, I put this down to the fact
that LEDs take so little power that
batteries were corroding due to old
age rather than being replaced when
the equipment no longer performed.
Just about every small light, such
as puck lights that take 3 x AAAs,
have leaking batteries and corroded
terminals. Remote controls on the
other hand, which also consume little power, tend just to have flat batteries and only corrode if they are
left unused.
Over time, I replaced batteries in
110
Silicon Chip
sensor lights that last close to a year.
The four C-cells are not corroded but
I notice that at least one is reversecharged and others may be flat or
have little charge.
Is this a phenomenon of the LED
drivers and the reverse-charging
causing the little batteries to leak?
(R. B., Warooka, SA)
• The leaking cells you are experiencing are mainly due to the type
of battery chemistry used in those
cells. As LEDs improved and became viable as a light source, Alkaline cells also became more prevalent. Alkaline cells are more prone
to chemical leakage than the earlier
carbon-zinc types.
Additionally, lithium cells that are
Australia’s electronics magazine
now commonly used in wireless remote controls are less prone to leak
than Alkaline cells.
LED drivers produce a current
load on the cells just as do other
loads. Admittedly, the current demand on the cells is usually higher for LEDs where they are used in
lighting. That tends to discharge the
cells more quickly. Once cells are
discharged, leakage is more likely.
All cells do have a self-discharge
and when left for extended periods
will become discharged and prone
to leakage.
We have certainly seen plenty of
remote controls with leaky cells and
corroded terminals, so it is not just
lighting that suffers that fate.
SC
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LEDs, BRAND NAME and generic
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power supplies, LED ribbon, kits, components, hardware, EL wire.
www.ledsales.com.au
DAVE THOMPSON (the Serviceman
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you with kit assembly, project troubleshooting, general electronics and
custom design work. No job too small.
Based in Christchurch, NZ but service
available Australia/NZ wide.
Email dave<at>davethompson.co.nz
tronixlabs.com.au – Australia’s best
value for supported hobbyist electronics from Adafruit, SparkFun, Arduino,
Freetronics, Raspberry Pi – along with
kits, components and much more – with
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Contact Alan, VK2FALW on 0425 122
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MISCELLANEOUS
ASSORTED BOOKS FOR $5 EACH
Selling assorted books on electronics
and other related subjects like audio,
video, programming etc. The books are
relatively old in most cases and vary in
condition.
You'll need to come in person to see
what books we have and what we're
willing to sell:
Silicon Chip
1/234 Harbord Road (up the ramp)
Brookvale NSW 2100
(02) 9939 3295
Where do you get those
HARD-TO-GET PARTS?
Where possible, the SILICON CHIP On-Line
Shop stocks hard-to-get project parts,
along with PCBs, programmed micros,
panels and all the other bits and pieces
to enable you to complete your
SILICON CHIP project.
SILICON CHIP
On-Line SHOP
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Classified Ad Rates: $32.00 for up to 20 words (punctuation not charged) plus $1.20 for each additional word. Display ads in
Market Centre (minimum 2cm deep, maximum 10cm deep): $82.50 per column centimetre per insertion. All prices include GST.
Closing date: 5 weeks prior to month of sale. To book, email the text to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and include your name, address & credit card details, or phone Glyn (02) 9939 3295 or 0431 792 293.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 111
Coming up in Silicon Chip
Advertising Index
Arduino Vidor 4000 review
Altronics...............................76-79
This compact new Arduino board has a number of unique features such as
an onboard field-programmable gate array (FPGA), WiFi, Bluetooth and an
HDMI video output.
Cypher Research Labs............. 13
Diode Curve Plotter
With this project, we’ve taken a zener diode tester to the next level. It actually
plots the device’s I/V curve on an LCD screen and is suitable for use with zener diodes, TVSs, LEDs and standard diodes, among other devices.
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona..................................... IBC
Hare & Forbes....................... OBC
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
High-current linear bench supply
This power supply has very low ripple and noise due to the use of linear regulation. But it can still deliver plenty of current (more than 5A) with an output
of up to 50V.
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEACH Co Ltd........................... 93
LEDsales................................. 111
Low Energy Developments...... 111
Smartphone medicine, part two
In this follow-up article, Dr David Maddison describes many new medical applications for smartphones which involve interfacing the phone to external
hardware. This includes detecting cancer with an “artificial nose”, doing DNA
analysis in the field, detecting and classifying viruses, blood pressure and cardiac monitoring, and picking up food-based allergens, plus some other great
examples of modern medical technology.
Microchip Technology.................. 5
Trailing Edge touch and remote controlled Dimmer, part two
Silicon Chip Shop...........102-103
Mouser Electronics...................... 9
Ocean Controls......................... 10
SC Micromite BackPack.......... 107
Silicon Chip Back Issues.......... 41
This follow-up article has all the Touch & IR Remote Control Dimmer construction details, plus testing and installation instructions.
Silicon Chip Subscriptions..... 109
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
Tronixlabs................................ 111
The March 2019 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, February
28th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between February 26th and March 13th.
Wagner Electronics..................... 6
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 11
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Weller Soldering Iron................... 7
Notes & Errata
Isolated Serial Link, January 2019: if using the device for isolating circuitry floating at mains potential, the following precautions must be observed:
1) It must be mounted in an Earthed metal or double-insulated case before connecting it to the mains-powered equipment (ideally, within the same enclosure). Only the isolated connections should be brought outside the case. If mounting in a separate
case, the wiring to the mains-powered equipment must be mains-rated and properly insulated at both ends.
2) Either omit the isolated power supply circuitry or build the version using MOD1, not transformer T1.
3) If using MOD1, lengthen the slot underneath it until it nearly touches OPTO1 (the slot is already lengthened on RevH boards)
800W(+) UPS, May-July 2018: the Altronics chassis-mount LEDs mention in the parts list on page 33 of the May 2018 issue
(Cat Z0222, Z0224 & Z0226) do not have integral current-limiting resistors. You will either need to solder a resistor of around
1kW in series with each LED or use chassis-mount LEDs which already have resistors, such as Jaycar Cat SL2644/SL2645
or Altronics Cat Z0264/Z0265.
Full Wave, 230V Universal Motor Speed Controller, March 2018: in the circuit diagram (Fig.1) on page 36, the “Active In”
wire from FUSE1 is shown connecting to the top-most terminal of CON1 and it then goes through the core of transformer T1.
This is incorrect; the wire from FUSE1 goes directly to T1, then to CON1 and on to the A1 terminal of TRIAC1. The overlay and
wiring diagram (Fig.2) on page 40 is correct.
BackPack Touchscreen DDS Signal Generator, April 2017: the 560W resistor in the parts list should actually be 470W.
SC200 Audio Amplifier Module, January-March 2017: in the alternative SMD parts list on page 81 of the February 2017
issue, Q1 should be listed as a BCM856DS, not a BC856. Q2, Q5 and Q6 are all listed correctly as BC856 types.
12AX7 Valve Audio Preamplifier, November 2003: in the power supply circuit diagram (Fig.8) on page 30, VR1 and its series
220kW resistor are shown swapped compared to the PCB layout. VR1’s wiper and the top end of the track connect to the junction
of the 47kW and 680kW 1W resistors.
112
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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