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Smooth . . . Our Ne
With Touch and/or Remote Control
Our new dimmer works with most modern lighting,
including dimmable LEDs, dimmable fluorescents
and dimmable halogen downlights, as well
as the now old-fashioned incandescents.
It also has a really easy-to-use touch
control and even infrared
remote control, for ultimate
convenience! It’s ultra modern, easy to build
and simple to wire up.
By John Clarke
S
leek looks, smooth dimming
over a wide range, touch control
and infrared remote control are
just some of the outstanding features
of this new Touch and Infrared Trailing
Edge Light Dimmer from SILICON CHIP.
It is ideal for dimming modern
LED lamps and it does not have a
“last century” style adjustment knob.
You don’t control your phone or tablet with a knob, do you? You use the
touchscreen.
So don’t you also want a touch interface for your lighting?
And so that you don’t even have
to get up from your chair and walk
across the room, you can also use a
stylish slimline infrared remote control to control the lights. It even provides presets to quickly set the mood
that you want!
Virtually all lighting in new or
renovated homes is now LED-based,
20
Silicon Chip
which often means that these homes
lack dimmers. If the lamps are dimmable (or can be easily replaced with
dimmable versions), then a dimmer
like this one is great to retrofit since
there are times when you don’t want
full brightness.
Like when you have just woken up
in the morning!
But if you have a modern home, you
will want a modern dimmer, so this
one is a great choice.
Visually, its minimalistic style with
a brushed aluminium plate means it
will blend into a modern home – although it looks great in a more traditional setting too.
And the infrared remote control
option seals the deal. You can keep
it on your bedside table, dining table,
lounge. . . wherever you spend a lot
of time.
Watching a movie? Don’t get up
Australia’s electronics magazine
from the couch; you can dim the lights
just like in a cinema. The baby needs
changing during the night? There’s no
need to use bright light which can disturb sleep patterns. Just slept in? Ease
yourself into the day by slowly ramping up the bedroom lighting.
It’s unobtrusive too, because the
only part of the dimmer that you see
is the wall plate.
We use a commercially available
Clipsal Classic 2000 blank plate, so it
looks very professional and contemporary. A small lens is added to allow
for reception of the infrared transmission from the handheld remote control
unit. Extra wall plates can be added in
other locations if needed, too.
The infrared handheld controller
is not one you have to build yourself.
Instead, it is a small low cost, commercially available unit and it looks
attractive and professional.
siliconchip.com.au
ew Universal Dimmer
Features:
Trailing edge control – suits LEDs
Slimline appearance
Touchplate dimming – no knob
Optional infrared remote control
Soft on/off (rapidly ramps brightness up or down)
Supports multiple touch plates
Wide dimming range
Low electromagnetic interference (EMI)
Can operate without a Neutral connection
Hopefully, we’ve sold you on the
idea of this Dimmer. So read on to find
out what it can do and how it works.
Requirements for dimming
LED lights
You need a universal or trailing-edge
dimmer for dimming LEDs or compact fluorescent lights (see panel on
trailing edge dimmers). But you also
need to make sure that your lights are
designed to be dimmable. If they are,
it will say so on the packaging and it
will probably also be printed on the
lamps themselves.
Many LED and fluorescent lights are
not dimmable. And we’ve found that
even some that claim they are dimmable don’t always “play nice” with
certain dimmers!
So it pays to test the lights with the
dimmer you intend using before installing either.
Our Dimmer was tested with a few
different dimmable LEDs and we
found that it worked fine (as it should)
but there may be some LED lights out
there which will not work when driven from it, so you need to test them
siliconchip.com.au
yourself.
The same goes for halogens with
electronic
transformers.
The underside
of our new Touch/
Remote Control Dimmer. It mounts on
a standard Clipsal plate, which in turn
accepts a standard aluminium dress
panel.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Some are explicitly labelled as dimmable and most of them will work
with this Dimmer. Halogens powered
via traditional iron-cored transformers
are also dimmable. If you are running
several halogen or incandescent lights
with this Dimmer, be careful not to exceed its 250W maximum load rating.
Dimming control
The lamp(s) connected to the Dimmer can be controlled in two ways,
using the touch plate or via infrared
remote control.
With the touch plate, dimming
is initiated by simply holding your
hand on the touch plate. The light
brightness will smoothly decrease
or increase. Momentarily lifting
your hand and then re-applying
it to the touch plate will switch
between decreasing or increasing
brightness.
It takes three seconds for the light
to go from fully off to fully on or vice
versa. Dimming stops when either
minimum brightness or full brightness is reached.
Want instant light? A quick tap of
the touch plate will switch the light
on and another quick tap will turn it
off. When switching on, the lamp immediately goes to full brightness over
a brief period of around 0.4s (400ms).
This produces a smooth on/off effect
rather than an abrupt change in light
level.
Note that a quick tap is any touch
that measures between 140ms and
600ms.
Taps shorter than 140ms are ignored
(to prevent spurious light switching due to electrical noise etc) while
February 2019 21
Specifications
Operating mains voltage range: .............200-255VAC
Mains frequency: ...............................50Hz or 60Hz
Minimum load: .................................8W
Maximum load: .................................250W
Minimum brightness: ..........................0% (entirely off)
Maximum brightness: .........................100% when a Neutral connection is available; adjustable when it is not, up to about 95%
Brightness steps: ...............................2% (50 steps from off to full brightness)
Touch dimming time: ..........................three seconds from fully on to fully off or vice versa
Touch control commands: ....................switch on/off, brighter/dimmer
Infrared remote control commands: ........switch on/off, increase/decrease brightness fast (2s) or slow (9s), plus three presets
Dimming steps: ................................50 for touch control, 100/450 for infrared (fast/slow dimming)
Soft on/off time: ................................400ms
Quiescent power: ..............................around 1W
Touch control timing: ..........................Touched for <140ms: no action
....................................................Touched for 140-600ms: on/off alternate action
....................................................Touched for >600ms: begins dimming up or down; hold down to continue (alternate action)
presses longer than 600ms initiate the
dimming up/down function.
Infrared remote control
While the touch plate has effectively
only one control that has to perform
several functions, the handheld remote control unit has nine buttons,
as shown below.
All of these buttons control the Dimmer in some way.
The “Operate” or on/off button at
the top switches the lights entirely
The nine-button remote control we
used for this project. There are no
doubt many others available which
will do the job, but ours came from
Little Bird Electronics (www.littlebird.
com.au) for the princely sum of $5.87.
22
Silicon Chip
on or off, just like a quick tap of the
touch plate.
The circle button in the middle of
the directional arrows also switches
the light on or off, however, it works
slightly differently.
When you press it to switch the light
on, it will return to the same brightness level the lamp had before it was
last switched off.
Holding the up and down arrow
buttons provide a slow increase or decrease in brightness respectively, with
nine seconds required to go from fully
off to fully on or vice versa. The left
and right arrow buttons also decrease
or increase the brightness but do so
faster, taking only two seconds from
one extreme to the other.
The A, B and C buttons provide for
three different fixed brightness levels.
These are dim, medium and bright
lamp settings respectively. As with
the on/off control, rather than jumping
instantly to the new brightness level,
the unit quickly ramps the brightness
up or down as required, providing a
smooth transition.
When the Dimmer is initially powered up, the lamp remains off. The
Fig.1(a): when Mosfets Q1 & Q2 are
switched off, current cannot flow
through the lamp regardless of the
polarity of the Active voltage because
one of the two Mosfet body diodes will
always be reverse-biased and block
current flow. If a single Mosfet was
used, it would always conduct at least
half the time, severely limiting the
possible dimming range
Fig.1(b): when the gates of Mosfets
Q1 & Q2 are pulled at least 8V above
their source terminals (shown here
connected to circuit ground), both
Mosfets conduct and so current can
flow through the lamp regardless
of the Active voltage or the point in
the mains cycle. The forward-biased
body diode may conduct some current
depending on the voltage across the
Mosfets.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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6
TOUCH & REMOTE CONTROL TRAILING EDGE DIMMER
1
G
S
Fig.2: the circuit of the Touch and Remote Controlled Universal Dimmer. The yellow shaded box shows the optional
extension circuit, only required if you need two or more touch plates for control. Micro IC1 does most of the work,
controlling Mosfets Q1 and Q2 via optocoupler OPTO1 and an isolated power supply based on transformer T1. It
monitors the mains phase at pin 5 and times the switching of the two Mosfets to achieve the desired lamp brightness level.
standby power drawn by the Dimmer
circuit from the mains is just over 1W.
What if there is no Neutral
wire?
In most domestic installations, the
mains Neutral wire is not brought to
the light switch. The Neutral connection to the lamp is usually made in
the ceiling; only the lamp Active wire
and Active supply wire need to be run
through the wall cavity to the switch
or dimmer (it saves cable!).
That presents a problem for powering the dimmer circuit. When the
lamp is switched on at full brightness,
in theory, there is no potential difference between those two wires and so
there is no power available to run the
siliconchip.com.au
Dimmer itself.
But we need it to work in this situation since it is so common.
The solution is to limit the maximum lamp brightness to be just a little bit less than that achieved when it
receives the full 230VAC. Since dimming is done by switching the mains
off before the end of each cycle, that
leaves a small window where mains
voltage is still present but the lamp is
off. It is during that time that the dimmer draws the power it needs to operate from the mains.
If there is a Neutral connection
available, then the dimmer is powered
regardless of whether the lamp is on
all the time, so maximum brightness
will be available.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Our Dimmer caters for both wiring
possibilities. When the Neutral wire
is not available, you can set the maximum brightness of the lamp, so there
is enough mains voltage to power the
dimmer without the lamp flickering.
We will describe how this is done in
the constructional article next month.
LED light snap-on effect
Many mains-powered LED lamps
will “snap on” as the dimming control
is increased from off to a low brightness level. This means that the lamp
brightness may not rise slowly as expected; instead, the lamp remains off
entirely and then springs into life suddenly when you reach a specific brightness setting, with a higher brightness
February 2019 23
than you would expect.
This is due to the LED driver requiring a certain amount
of voltage and current to start up. Once it has started, you
can usually drop the brightness back down to a lower level
and the light will remain on.
In other words, you can’t get the lamp to light up dimly
when increasing its brightness from the off-state. You instead need to switch it on at an intermediate brightness and
then reduce its brightness to get it to dim correctly. This
effect is more noticeable when you are running the Dimmer without a separate Neutral connection.
Circuit description
The circuit of the Universal Dimmer is shown in Fig.2.
Despite providing many useful features, the circuit is quite
simple because most of the work is done in the software
running on the PIC12F617 microcontroller (ICI).
Mosfets Q1 and Q2 switch mains voltage to the lamp(s),
to control their brightness. The way that these control the
lamp load is shown in Fig.1. This configuration allows us
to control power over the entire mains waveform, switching mains power at the lamp on or off at any time.
The reason that two Mosfets are required for this job is
that a power Mosfet contains an intrinsic (or body or “parasitic”) diode which cannot be removed; it is inherent to
the structure of a Mosfet.
Since the current flow reverses for half of the mains waveform, if we used a single Mosfet, its body diode would conduct half the time and apply the full voltage to the load,
whether the Mosfet was switched on or not.
By connecting the two Mosfets in series, with the body
diodes in opposite directions and the Mosfets switched
off, current flow is blocked in both directions, as shown
in Fig.1(a).
When the Mosfets are switched on by pulling their gate
voltages high, as in Fig.1(b), current can flow in either
direction via the Mosfet channels, mostly bypassing the
body diodes.
The body diodes will only conduct if the current through
the channel high enough to create a voltage difference
across the Mosfet (due to channel resistance) that’s higher
than the body diode forward voltage.
Driving the Mosfet gates
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 switch on when their gate voltages are
higher than the common source terminal voltage. For these
particular Mosfets, the difference needs to be at least 8V
for conduction with minimal losses.
But the gate voltage can’t be too high as any more than
30V could damage the Mosfets. That makes it a bit tricky
to provide just the right voltage to keep them switched on
when necessary.
The easiest solution is to galvanically isolate the gate
voltage source from the rest of the circuit. This is mainly
since the +5V rail is connected directly to mains Active,
which is necessary for the touch control to work.
The problem is that even if we could generate the required 8-30V supply and then apply this to the Mosfet gates,
with their source terminals connected to circuit ground,
as soon as Q1 switched on, it would connect Active (+5V)
to ground, effectively shorting out the 5V supply and thus
shutting the whole circuit down.
By “floating” the gate supply, we eliminate this prob24
Silicon Chip
Leading vs trailing edge dimming
Our mains electricity supply (nominally 230VAC) is a 50Hz
sinewave. To provide a dimming function, this is normally
“chopped” in some manner by a switching device which interrupts the mains supply to the lamp, to reduce its brightness. The more of the time this switching device is on, the
brighter the lamp.
The most common method of chopping the mains waveform is “phase control”, where power is applied continuously
for some portion of each half of the mains cycle. Each half of
the mains cycle lasts for 10ms and for the entire period, the
Active conductor voltage is either higher or lower than the
Neutral voltage.
Between each half-wave, there is a “zero crossing” where the
Active and Neutral voltages are equal. Each full mains waveform (taking 20ms) is considered to have a phase from 0-360°,
with the two zero crossings having phase angles of 0° and
180° and the voltage peaks being at 90° and 270°; see Fig.3.
The terms “leading-edge dimming” and “trailing-edge dimming” refer to the fact that there are two main ways to provide
phase control. They work similarly but are generally used in
different circumstances.
If you delay applying the mains waveform to the load until
a particular phase angle – say, 45° – then allow it to continue
to be applied until the start of the next half-cycle, you have
reduced the RMS voltage at the load and therefore reduced
the power the load draws. This is known as leading edge dimming since you are delaying the leading edge of the mains
waveform “seen” by the load; see Fig.4.
Alternatively, if you apply power to the load from the start of
the waveform (ie, at 0°) and then cut it before the end of the
cycle – say, at 315° – then you are moving the trailing edge
of the mains waveform as seen by the load and that is known
as trailing edge dimming; see Fig.5.
In both of these examples, the RMS voltage applied to the
load is the same – around 219V RMS in a nominally 230VAC
system.
The leading edge dimmer has been used for around 50
years, mainly for dimming incandescent lamps. That is because it can be implemented using a simple circuit based on
a Triac, as shown in Fig.6.
The Triac is a four-layer semiconductor device which switches on when its gate is driven. But it can’t be switched off via
the gate; instead, it switches itself off when the current flow
through it drops to near zero.
In practice, when driving a resistive load like an incandes-
Fig.3: the Australian mains voltage is roughly sinusoidal
and repeats at 50Hz (ie, every 20ms). The negative-topositive transition of the Active voltage is considered the
start of each cycle and has a phase angle of 0°. The other
zero crossing is at 180° and the two peaks are at 90°
and 270°. During phase control, the power to the load is
switched at a consistent point in the cycle.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
cent lamp, the Triac switches off when
the mains voltage is near 0V. Hence,
it’s simple to provide leading edge
phase control.
Dimming LEDs
Leading edge dimmers are not
suitable for use with LED lamps or
halogen lamps with electronic transformers. That’s because in both cases, the control circuitry rectifies the
mains and then filters it with a capacitor. It is the charge on that capacitor
which then runs the remaining circuitry, including the lamp.
If a voltage is suddenly applied to
this type of circuit, the diodes in the
Fig.4: a leading edge dimmer varies
Fig.5: a trailing edge dimmer achieves
rectifier immediately conduct and
the switch-on point during the mains
a similar result but it instead switches
cycle but always switches off at the zero
the lamp on at the zero crossing and
draw a high current to charge the cacrossing. So the earlier it switches on, the
then switches it off at some point
pacitor quickly.
more power is applied to the load and
later in the mains cycle. The later the
Such a high inrush current is manthe
brighter
the
resulting
light
is.
But
this
switch-off, the brighter the lamp. This
ageable if it only occurs infrequentdoes not work well with LEDs or with
scheme is compatible with lamps that
ly, such as when a light is switched
other lamps that have electronic drivers.
have electronic drivers, including most
on, but if it’s happening every mains
dimmable LEDs.
cycle (when the Triac in the dimmer
switches on), it could lead to overTrailing edge dimmers need to use a switching device other
heating and failure.
than a Triac; one that can be switched off with gate control
And even if the dimmer and lamp can tolerate this situation,
at any part of the mains waveform. Fig.7 shows a simpliyou would still expect to see ringing, voltage excursions, exfied circuit of a typical trailing edge dimmer. The switching
cessive electromagnetic interference (EMI) and lamp flashing
device is normally one or two Mosfets or IGBTs (insulated
rather than dimming. So clearly it is not workable.
gate bipolar transistors).
The solution is to use a trailing-edge dimmer instead. The
In the circuit presented here, we are using two Mosfets,
switching device now turns on at the mains zero crossing
connected source-to-source. Refer to the circuit description
where there is no potential difference between Active and
for details on why we’ve used that configuration. It allows
Neutral. The lamp voltage then rises relatively slowly and the
us to switch mains power to the lamp load on or off at any
rectifier diodes conduct once the mains voltage exceeds the
points in the mains cycle.
capacitor voltage. Current is drawn from the mains in much
For more information on leading and trailing edge dimmers
smaller and more tolerable pulses.
and their use with LED lamps, see the article titled “LED
Since LEDs are now basically taking over the lighting mardownlights and dimmers” in the July 2017 issue of SILICON
ket, leading-edge dimmers are giving way to trailing edge or
CHIP (www.siliconchip.com.au/Article/10712).
universal dimmers (which can operate in either mode).
S1
A
Ls
–
Cs
N
LAMP
LOAD
Ls
Fig.6: this shows how simple a Triac-based leading
edge dimmer can be. While this looks like a simplified
circuit, an actual dimmer is barely any more
complicated. Rt and Ct provide a variable time constant
that varies how late in the cycle the Diac “breaks over”
and triggers the Triac, which admits current to the lamp.
It automatically switches off at the next zero crossing.
Cs and Rs form a snubber to reduce EMI, and Ls helps
with EMI reduction too.
siliconchip.com.au
+
ZERO CROSSING
DETECTOR
AND PULSE
GENERATOR
HIGH
VOLTAGE
MOSFET D
G
S
SC
20 1 9
Fig.7: the circuit of a trailing edge dimmer is a little
more complex. This simplified diagram hides most of
the complexity inside the yellow box at right. The mains
supply is rectified to provide this control circuitry with a
power supply and also so that a single Mosfet can be used,
as it only has to switch voltage with a single polarity.
A capacitor is required (not shown) to maintain power
supply for the control circuitry while the Mosfet is on.
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 25
The dimmer is constructed using two PCBs which “sandwich” one on another. The
assembly is mounted onto a Clipsal plate with a touch plate on the opposite side.
lem; the Mosfet source terminals no
longer need to be connected for circuit ground to allow us to control the
Mosfet gate voltage.
Transformer T1 both provides this
isolation and also steps up the 5V
control voltage to give a gate voltage
above 8V. This transformer comprises
a high-frequency toroidal ferrite core
with two copper windings. The primary winding is driven by a 2MHz
square wave generated at IC1’s clock
output (pin 3), via a 100nF AC-coupling capacitor.
The secondary winding has four
times as many turns as the primary
and is isolated from it. The secondary
AC waveform is half-wave rectified by
diode D2 and filtered with a 100nF capacitor. The result is a nominal 10V DC
with the negative side connected to the
source of Q1 and Q2, and the positive
side to the gates via a 22kresistor and
two 470resistors.
The gate voltage is controlled using optocoupler OPTO1. It’s necessary to maintain the isolation between
IC1, with its 5V rail connected to Active, and Mosfets Q1 and Q2. When
IC1’s GP5 output (pin 2) goes high,
OPTO1’s internal infrared LED is off.
When this pin goes low, around 2mA
flows through that LED, limited by
the 2.2kresistor from the 5V supply.
When this LED lights up, it shines
26
Silicon Chip
on OPTO1’s internal phototransistor,
shorting out the 10V gate supply to
Mosfets Q1 and Q2, switching them
off. When the phototransistor switches
off, the 10V supply can again pull the
Mosfet gates high and so they switch
back on.
The Mosfet gates are isolated from
each other with 470resistors to
prevent oscillation at switch on. A
1Mresistor between the collector
and emitter of OPTO1’s output transistor ensures that Q1 and Q2 remain
off when IC1 is not powered.
Mains zero crossing detection
To time the switching of Q1 and Q2
correctly, to get the desired dimming
level, IC1 has a timer which is synchronised with the mains zero crossing, ie,
the time when the Active and Neutral
voltages are equal (which happens 100
times per second with our 50Hz mains
sinewave). It therefore needs a way to
detect this condition, to synchronise
its timer.
This is detected at pin 5 of IC1,
via a 1.5Mresistor connected to the
Neutral conductor (which may be via
the lamp(s), in cases where a separate
Neutral wire is not available). Detection of the zero crossing is only made
at the negative transition, with the
positive transition timing being timed
as 10ms later.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The 1.5Mcurrent-limiting resistor
forms an RC low-pass filter in conjunction with the 4.7nF capacitor, which
is necessary to reduce the effects of
electricity authority control tones
which may be superimposed on the
50Hz mains.
These would otherwise cause a noticeable flickering in the lamp due to
modulated zero voltage detection.
This does, however, delay the detection of the zero crossing. IC1 compensates for this known delay to determine
the actual zero crossing timing.
Note that only one of the two zero
crossings is actually detected. The
other is calculated from it based on
the expected delay from either a 50Hz
or 60Hz mains frequency. This improves the stability of the dimmer,
especially when operating without a
Neutral wire.
Also, the software only checks the
state of pin 5 around the expected time
of the zero crossing.
If zero voltage detection was active
for the entire cycle, switching the lamp
on and off would cause false detection due to the change in voltage at
the zero voltage input when the lamp
is switched. This is important when
zero crossing detection is via the lamp
rather than directly from the Neutral.
Power supply
As you may have gathered from the
explanation above, the power supply
configuration for this circuit is intimately related to its operation.
That’s because it runs from the same
mains supply which it is also monitoring (for zero crossing events) and
switching. And in the case where you
don’t have a Neutral wire connected
to the device, it becomes quite tricky
indeed.
Besides the isolated Mosfet gate
driver section described above, the rest
of the circuit “floats” with the nominally 230VAC mains Active waveform.
In fact, the Active wire is tied directly to its +5V rail. So you can think of
it as if the circuit’s supply current is
drawn from the Neutral connection;
in practice, it flows between Active
and Neutral, with the current reversing 100 times per second.
This current flows to/from the Neutral wire through two 4701W series-connected resistors and a 470nF
mains-rated capacitor.
When the Active voltage is below
the Neutral voltage, the 470nF capacisiliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Trailing Edge Dimmer
Here’s the extension touch plate control
which is similar to the main PCB and
mounts in the same way (see below) . . .
tor charges via the two 470resistors
and ZD1, which is forward-biased and
acts like a standard diode.
When the Active voltage subsequently goes above the Neutral voltage, the 470nF capacitor discharges
through diode D1, charging up the
470µF electrolytic capacitor which
then powers the rest of the circuit.
Once the charge on the 470µF capacitor reaches 5V, any extra current
drawn by the circuit is shunted by
ZD1, to prevent the supply voltage
rising any further. It limits the supply to 5V, not 5.6V, due to the 0.6V
forward voltage of diode D1 when it
is in conduction.
When ZD1 conducts, it is the im-
. . . and
here’s the
extension
mounted on
the Clipsal plate.
siliconchip.com.au
1 double-sided PCB coded 10111191, 66 x 104mm
1 PCB coded 10111192, 58.5 x 104mm
1 Clipsal CLOPTO1031VXBA C2000-series standard blank plate with blank
aluminium cover
1 CLI449AWE mounting block (optional; see construction article text next month)
1 fresnel lens for IR sensor (Murata IML0688) [RS components Cat 124-5980]
1 infrared remote control [Little Bird Electronics SF-COM-14865]
1 CR2025 3V cell, to suit IR remote control
1 DIL-8 IC socket (IC1)
1 4-way terminal strip, 25A 300VAC with 9.5mm pitch (CON1) [Jaycar HM-3162]
1 18 x 10 x 6mm toroidal core, L8 material (T1) [Jaycar LO1230]
1 1.26m length of 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire (T1)
3 100mm Nylon cable ties
1 25mm length of 16mm heatshrink tubing
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
8 M3 hex nuts
1 15mm length of 0.71mm diameter tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller programmed with 1011119A.HEX (IC1) OR
1011119B.HEX (depending on remote; see errata August 2019)
1 4N25 optocoupler (OPTO1)
1 TSOP4136 infrared receiver (IRD1)
2 SIHB15N60E N-channel Mosfets, 15A 600V (Q1,Q2)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D1)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D2)
1 5.6V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
Capacitors
1 470µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF 275VAC X2-class, 22.5mm pitch
3 100nF 63/100V MKT polyester
1 4.7nF 63/100V MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless otherwise stated)
2 4.7MW Vishay VR37 3.5kV safety resistors [RS Components 484-4400]
1 1.5MW 1W 5%
2 1MW
1 47kW
1 22kW
1 10kW
1 2.2kW
2 470W 1W 5%
2 470W
1 47W
Additional parts for each extra touch plate
1 double-sided PCB coded 10111192, 58.5 x 104mm
1 PCB coded 10111193, 58.5 x 104mm
1 Clipsal CLOPTO1031VXBA C2000-series standard blank plate with blank
aluminium cover
1 CLI449AWE mounting block (optional; see text)
1 4-way terminal strip, 25A 300VAC with 9.5mm pitch (CON1) [Jaycar HM-3162]
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
8 M3 hex nuts
1 15mm length of 0.71mm diameter tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 BC559 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D3)
2 6.8V 1W zener diodes (ZD3,ZD4)
Capacitors
1 47nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless otherwise stated)
2 4.7MW Vishay VR37 3.5kV safety resistors [RS Components 484-4400]
1 2.2MW
1 1MW
1 220W
Additional parts for external switch control
1 Clipsal 30MBPR momentary press switch and matching architrave or standard
single-gang switch plate
Australia’s electronics magazine
February 2019 27
Infrared remote control using the Pulse Distance Protocol (PDP)
Most infrared controllers use a modulation frequency of 36-40kHz, typically 38kHz, where the infrared LED is
switched on and off at this frequency.
This is done in bursts (pulses), with the
length of and space between the bursts
(pauses) indicating which button was
pressed.
The series of bursts and pauses is
usually in a particular format (or protocol) and there are several different protocols commonly used. This includes
the Manchester-encoded RC5 and RC6
protocols originated by Philips. There
is also the Pulse Width Protocol used
by Sony. The handheld remote used in
this project uses Pulse Distance Protocol, originating from NEC.
If you are interested in details on
all these protocols and others, see the
application note AN3053 by Freescale
Semiconductors (formerly Motorola)
at: http://cache.freescale.com/files/
microcontrollers/doc/app_note/
AN3053.pdf
The adjacent diagram (Fig.8) shows
the details of this protocol. This is broken up into four panels.
The top panel shows how binary
bits zero and one are transmitted. They
both start with a 560µs burst modulated at 38kHz. A logic 1 is followed by
a 1690µs pause while a logic 0 has a
shorter 560µs pause.
The second panel shows the structure
of a single transmission. It starts with
a 9ms burst and a 4.5ms pause. This
is then followed by eight address bits,
another eight bits which are the “one’s
complement” of those same eight address bits (the 0s become 1s and the 1s
become 0s). The address bits identify
the equipment being controlled by the
remote (TV, DVD, radio etc).
pedance of the two 470resistors and
the 470nF capacitor which prevents
excessive current from being drawn
from the mains.
The 470resistors also limit the inrush current each time the light switch
is turned on, as the instantaneous applied voltage could be as high as 350V
DC (the typical Active-Neutral voltage
with a 230V mains supply is 325VPK
but in some areas with abnormally
high mains, this could be significantly higher).
If there is no Neutral connection
available in the location where the
28
Silicon Chip
Fig.8: timing details of the PDP infrared remote control protocol. The first panel
shows the timing of logic 0s and 1s (consisting of 38kHz bursts of IR energy). The
second panel shows how these data bits are combined with the start frame and
tail burst to encode a remote control button press. The third panel shows the
repeat signal transmitted when a button is held down and the fourth panel shows
the series of commands which result from pressing and then holding a button.
These are followed by eight command
bits, plus their one’s complement, indicating which function should be activated,
then finally a 560µs “tail” burst to end the
transmission.
Note that the address and command
data is sent with the least significant bit
first.
The complementary address and command bytes are sent as a way of detecting
errors. If the complement data value received is not the complement of the data
received then one or the other has been
incorrectly detected and decoded.
A lack of complementary data suggests
that the received data is not in the PDP
protocol and so the signal is being sent
by a different handheld remote.
After a button is pressed, if it continues to be held down, it will produce
repeat frames. These consist of a 9ms
burst, a 2.25ms pause and a 560µs
burst. This is repeated at 110ms intervals.
The repeat frame is used to inform
the receiver to possibly repeat that particular function, depending on what it is.
For example, “volume up” or “skip
forward” actions may be repeated but
“mute” may not.
Dimmer is installed, the Neutral connection is made via the lamp load.
In this case, power is only available to the circuit when the lamp is
switched off. When the lamp is on, the
voltage across Q1 and Q2 is less than
1V and this is insufficient to develop
the 5V power supply voltage.
Thus, the phase control range needs
to be limited to less than the full mains
cycle when there is no separate Neutral wire.
That way, the lamp is not lit for the
entire cycle, to make sure that there
is still enough power available to run
the rest of the circuit. This means the
maximum lamp brightness is limited
without the Neutral connection.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dimming control
The touch plate is connected to
IC1’s pin 6 via two high-voltage
4.7Mresistors, while the optional
extension board (for a second touch
plate – or more) is connected to pin 7
via a standard 47kresistor.
It is essential to use the resistors nominated (ie, Vishay VR37 series 4.7M).
As well as limiting any current flow to
a person touching the touch plate to besiliconchip.com.au
low about 36µA, these particular resistors give a good safety margin as they
are rated at 2.5kV (AC) each. Two resistors in series increase the voltage rating
to 5kV, giving extra safety.
Trust us; you definitely don’t want
to risk becoming directly connected to
the mains Active conductor – it hurts!
And that applies to anyone else who
will be using the dimmer, not just you.
Usually, the input from the touch
plate at pin 6 is held at 5V (ie, mains
Active potential) by the 1Mpullup resistor but if the touch plate is
touched, the ground capacitance of
the person touching it brings the touch
plate to ground potential when the Active voltage is trending upwards.
This effectively pulls pin 6 down to
supply ground for long enough to IC1
to detect this condition.
The extension input at pin 7 is normally held low by the 10kresistor. It
is pulled high to the 5V supply when
the extension circuit touch plate is
touched. The 47kresistor protects
input pin 7 from transients or incorrect connections.
Note that we need to use a separate
input for extra touch plates. If we merely extended the pin 6 input to another switch plate, the extra capacitance
and pickup from the extra line length
would lead to false triggering on that
high impedance input.
Even if your loungeroom, etc has multiple LED lights on one switch, our trailingedge dimmer will handle them – up to a maximum of 250W. And as most domestic
LED lights are in the order of 8-20W each, that’s an awful lot of LEDs that you can
control.
Infrared remote control
Extension circuit
If fitted, infrared receiver module
IRD1 receives and demodulates the
codes from the handheld infrared remote control. It incorporates an amplifier and automatic gain control plus a
38kHz bandpass filter to accept only
remote control signals. It then detects
and removes the 38kHz carrier. The resulting signal is applied to the pin 4
input of IC1, ready for code detection.
The handheld IR remote is a small
unit measuring only 80 x 40 x 7mm.
It is powered by a CR2025 3V button
cell. It has nine snap action pushbuttons on its front panel. The buttons include a Power on/off (“operate”) button, three buttons labelled A, B and C
buttons and a 5-switch array for up,
down, left, right and a central accept
or OK button.
The 5-button array is commonly
used for volume and channel selectors or forward, reverse, left and right
functions.
There isn’t too much information
about the electronics in the handheld
The circuit of the extension board,
required to add a second (or third…)
touch plate to control the same set
of lights is shown at the bottom of
Fig.2. It is pretty simple as it is only a
means for the extra touch plate(s) to
send a signal to microcontroller IC1
on the main board, which then treats
the event identically to a touch of its
local plate.
While the extension touch plate
is not touched, PNP transistor Q3 is
held off via the 1Mresistor between
its base and emitter. When the touch
plate is touched and the Active voltage is above Earth, Q3’s base is pulled
low via the two safety resistors, diode
D3 and the 2.2Mresistor.
This switches on Q3 and the EXTN
connection is pulled up to the Active
potential, which is also the +5V supply for IC1 on the main board. This
pulls pin 7 (digital input GP0) of IC1
high, sending it a signal that the plate
has been touched.
The 47nF capacitor acts as a filter
siliconchip.com.au
remote except that it uses a 16-pin surface-mount remote control IC, designated HB8101P.
Each time a button is pressed, it
transmits a unique code is by pulsing
an infrared (IR) LED. The infrared signal is sent as 38kHz bursts, using what
is known as Pulse Distance Protocol
(PDP). This protocol is described in
the adjacent panel.
IC1 receives this signal and decodes
it. If the signal is recognised as a valid
code associated with a pushbutton on
the IR remote, the required dimming
function is activated.
Australia’s electronics magazine
and prevents sudden electrical transients (eg, lightning or EMI) from
switching on Q3. This capacitor also
acts to holds Q3 on sufficiently long
enough for detection by IC1 on the
main dimmers, even with a very quick
tap on the plate.
Zener diode ZD3 protects against
excessive voltages at the cathode of
diode D3 when the plate is being
touched, as the potential difference
could be hundreds of volts. Current
is limited to a very low level by the
safety resistors.
Zener diode ZD4 and the
220resistor at the collector of Q3
provides protection if the connections to the main circuit are wired in
reverse. In this case, ZD4 will be forward-biased, protecting Q3, while the
220resistor limits the fault current. A
thinned section on the PCB will fuse if
this connection is made for long. You
would then have to repair it after fixing up the wiring.
You also have the option of using a
momentary contact mains-rate switch
(eg, Clipsal 30MBPR and switch plate)
instead of the extension board, as a secondary dimmer control/light switch.
This just needs to be wired up to connect the Active and Extension (EXTN)
terminals when pressed.
Multiple extension boards can be
wired in parallel, between the A and
EXTN terminals, if you need more than
two dimmer controls.
Coming up next month
In part 2 next month we will have
all the construction and wiring details,
testing and adjustment steps and some
usage tips.
SC
February 2019 29
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