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Contents
Vol.32, No.6; June 2019
Features & Reviews
14 From a knotted rope to side-scanning SONAR
The latest side scan and multibeam sonar systems are helping to build an accurate
map of the seabed; even finding sunken ships and aircraft. It’s called “bathymetry”
and it has come a long way from ropes with knots in them – by Dr David Maddison
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Side scanning
and multibeam sonar
are changing
the way we
see the seabed
– Page 14
40 e-Paper displays: no paper involved!
Small e-Paper Displays (also known as e-Ink) are now becoming available as
electronic modules, making them usable by hobbyists. In this article, we explain
what they do, how to use them and where to get them – by Tim Blythman
88 El Cheapo Modules: Long Range (LoRa) Transceivers
Connecting a couple of computers, Arduinos, Micromites or other micros via a
UHF wireless data link is easy if you use a pair of low-cost modules based on the
SX1278 ultra-low-power LoRa modem/transceiver chip – by Jim Rowe
Constructional Projects
26 An AM/FM/CW Scanning HF/VHF RF Signal Generator
Here’s one for amateurs or anyone interested in HF/VHF radio. This low-cost,
easy-to-build and user-friendly RF signal generator covers from 100kHz–50MHz
and 70–120MHz, and is usable up to 150MHz – by Andrew Woodfield, ZL2PD
If you’re into
HF or VHF
radio you’re
going to
LOVE this
AM/FM/CW
Scanning RF Signal Generator
– Page 26
e-Paper displays are
suitable for a wide
range of hobbyist
projects. We explain
them and tell you how
to use them – Page 40
45 Steering Wheel Audio Button To Infrared Adaptor
Most new cars have push-button controls on the steering wheel to control the incar audio system. But what if you update your audio system? We take advantage
of the usual inbuilt infrared control to regain push-button control – by John Clarke
68 Very accurate speedo, car clock & auto volume change
Based on a GPS signal, this gives you a MUCH more accurate speed than your
vehicle’s speedometer (which you shouldn’t trust!), a very accurate clock – and it
will vary your car audio volume depending on your speed! – by Tim Blythman
77 DSP Active Crossover and 8-channel Parametric Equaliser
Part Two has all the construction details (including parts lists) for the superb hifi
stereo digital signal processor (DSP), two-way active crossover and eight channel
parametric equaliser introduced last month – by Phil Prosser and Nicholas Vinen
Your Favourite Columns
62 Serviceman’s Log
Fixing a “cheap as” set of “cans” – by Dave Thompson
94 Circuit Notebook
(1) Touchscreen clock radio using a Micromite LCD BackPack
(2) Control an aircon with an RTC and two micros
(3) Diode/transistor/Mosfet tester
100 Vintage Radio
AWA Radiola Model 137– by Rob Leplaw
Everything Else!
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
siliconchip.com.au
61 Product Showcase
104 SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
106
111
112
112
Ask SILICON CHIP
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes and Errata
If you’ve updated your car sound
system you probably know that the
steering wheel push-buttons no
longer work! With this project they
can work once again . . . – Page 45
Your car speedo
can be out by
several km/h! This
one is GPS based
so it’s spot on!
And it has other
functions too!
– Page 68
We introduced our
new DSP,
Active
Crossover,
and 8-channel parametric equaliser
last month. Now we get to the fun
part – building it! – Page 77
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
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SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
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2
Silicon Chip
Editorial Viewpoint
Will 5G mobile networks
live up to the hype?
Lately, stories are popping up about how 5G wireless networks are coming soon and will have amazing performance. A few handsets with 5G support are
now on sale, and a few 5G networks have been set up
in dense urban areas.
While it’s certainly impressive technology, providing very high data speeds, 5G networks probably won’t replace the 3G/4G
mobile networks currently in place. Even if you have a 4G phone, you’re
likely still relying heavily on the 3G network.
Many mobile devices which are advertised as being 4G only actually
use it for data and still use 3G for voice. Voice calls on the 4G network use
what’s known as “Voice over LTE” or “VoLTE”. This isn’t supported by all
handsets, including even fairly recent 4G-capable models. And even when
they do support it, it is often not enabled by default. And for good reason!
My father bought an expensive flagship Samsung phone about a year
ago and had incessant problems with call dropouts and unavailability. Often you would dial his number, but his phone wouldn’t ring, even though
he had good reception. He contacted his carrier on multiple occasions but
they were unable to fix the problem. I eventually figured out how to solve
this: disable 4G.
If major networks and giant multinational manufacturers still can’t get 4G
to work properly, it seems premature to be talking about rolling out 5G. I was
pretty shocked when I read that the 3G network may be shut down soon;
possibly in as little as 12 months! Given how few phones support VoLTE
properly, that would be a disaster.
And there are many devices out there which only support 3G, some of
them relatively new (alarm diallers, GPS trackers etc) which will simply
cease to work if the 3G network is no longer operating.
Then there’s the problem of coverage, especially in a country as vast and
sparsely populated as Australia. Our 3G operates at either 850MHz, 900MHz
or 2.1GHz while 4G is from 700MHz to about 2.6GHz. Both technologies offer reasonable coverage with enough mobile towers.
But 5G operates up to about 39GHz(!). Such high frequencies are not good
at penetrating obstacles like trees, walls, roofs etc. So 5G networks will need
a lot more ‘towers’ than 3G/4G networks. That is, if they are to provide the
promised higher performance with coverage at least as good as 3G/4G.
And there will also need to be a lot of indoor ‘towers’ in places like shopping malls to ensure reasonable coverage.
That may be feasible in a densely packed, relatively flat city like Tokyo.
But Australia is a different story altogether, and Sydney has some serious
topological coverage challenges. Without a massive investment, indoor reception will be very spotty, and there will be plenty of ‘black spots’.
You have to wonder what the payback will be for such a massive investment. 4G is already really fast, although I’ve noticed that the networks have
become significantly more congested (and thus slower) in the last couple of
years, as data caps have gone up and prices have come down.
I don’t know how much of that is congestion in the airwaves and how
much is due to other bottlenecks. Faster mobile data networks will do nothing to solve bottlenecks that occur elsewhere.
So I think it’s vital that the 3G networks continue to operate until 4G and
5G are fully proven and widespread. And we should adopt a “wait and see”
attitude to 5G. There’s no point rushing to switch over to it just because it’s
a new technology. It needs to prove itself useful first.
Nicholas Vinen
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
New Zealand 433/434MHz
transmitter legality
For your information, the New Zealand Short Range Devices (SRD) General User Radio License (GURL) mentioned in your article on the 433MHz
UHF Data Repeater in the May 2019
issue has been superseded. The new
one is at: https://gazette.govt.nz/notice/
id/2019-go1588
The changes are listed at the bottom,
none of which affect the 433MHz band.
While you can operate SRD repeaters under the GURL, the device still
needs to meet the applicable standard
at a minimum (which can be found at
https://gazette.govt.nz/notice/id/2016go2007).
More information for the requirements can be found at siliconchip.
com.au/link/aaqa and it would be at
level A1. The supplier would be anyone who manufactures a unit.
Jeremy Logan,
Radio Spectrum Management,
Ministry of Business, Innovation &
Employment
Wellington, New Zealand.
Electrical safety should
be taken seriously
Silicon Chip is, without doubt, the
best electronics magazine worldwide;
I look forward to mine every month.
With regards to your editorial in the
February edition regarding servicing
of electronic equipment, I always suggest using a workbench wired via an
RCD breaker as an absolute safety necessity. Further, all equipment on the
bench to be serviced, or currently being serviced, should be powered via
an isolation transformer with a single
AC outlet for the appliance under test
(no Earth pin).
All mains-powered bench test gear
should be checked for electrical safety
each year (according to AS/NZS 3760,
or 3000).
All these precautions will not neces4
Silicon Chip
sarily protect from fatal electrocution,
or even accidents occasioning burns or
secondary damage (such as a fall following an electric shock).
Anybody considering building
mains-powered devices described in
the magazine needs to read, take heed
of and understand each of the safety
warnings, as well as how to put them
into practice for their personal safety. If
in doubt, ask your local electrician, or
do a short electronics training course,
with an emphasis on electrical workers’ safety.
Rod Humphris,
Ferntree Gully, Vic.
electronic assemblies and completed
products.
We don’t manufacture in China – or
even buy components or assemblies
from China. We are proudly Australian and do everything to make it here.
You can check out our website to see
some of the other things we do, and
happy to answer any questions. See:
www.adengineering.com.au/product/
flip-dot-signs-variable-message-signs/
Peter Harris,
Director, A.D. Engineering
International Pty Ltd,
Gnangara, WA.
World’s Largest Flip-dot Display
Made in Australia
I just picked up my April edition
of Silicon Chip magazine and there
on page 80 is a Tim Blythman article
entitled “Using a geophone with our
Arduino seismograph”. The article begins, “Reader Michael, from western
NSW, kindly sent us a model 20DX
geophone sensor, suggesting that this
would be a great add-on to our seismograph project”.
I’m really stoked that Tim Blythman picked up my suggestion to add
a geophone and now I think the unit
is definitely worth building. What especially impressed me with this particular Arduino design is the idea of
logging seismic data in 4-channel WAV
file format.
The MEMS accelerometer used in
the earlier design is great for strong
motion detection, but not weak local
quakes. Viewing and editing WAV data
is easy with Audacity or similar software, and since it’s already a sound
file, one can have fun listening to spedup seismic signals and the like.
The only thing missing is the addition of precision timing with a GPS
module, but I suspect that could be
achieved relatively easily by an Arduino whiz. With precision timing,
one could set up arrays of the things
to log and localise events, and study
As a very long term reader of your
magazine, I always look forward to
reading each issue every month. I enjoy the wide topic range and level of
technical detail in each article. Keep
up the good work!
I’m not sure if it is in your scope,
but I think that at least some readers
may be interested in what our local
Australian companies are doing on the
local and world stages. As an example, the Flip-dot project in your April
issue immediately made me think of
the world’s largest flip-dot display we
built for a large multinational company in Atlanta (USA).
It’s 38m wide and 6.6m high with
55,860 dots and incorporates over
4km of cable. To flip all dots at once
(in 100ms) takes 47kW! You can see
a video about it at: http://youtu.be/
UOwHlk4lM2c
We’ve made several huge displays,
including True-Corp in Bangkok (13
x 3m), Telefonica in Barcelona (10 x
3m) and are currently working on one
even bigger than the above!
Our primary focus has been big variable message signs for roads, but we
design and make many other things.
We design and build all our own
Australia’s electronics magazine
Stoked about geophone seismograph
siliconchip.com.au
what's-new-in-electronics--mouser-a&t.pdf
1
7/11/2018
11:36 AM
C
M
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CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 5
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phenomena such as microseismic noise which has a scale
size of several tens of kilometres.
Michael Andre Phillips,
Coonabarabran, NSW.
Proposal for lower supply voltages in the home
Here is my perspective on the April 2019 editorial concerning electrical safety. Technology has moved on since
Tesla’s AC generation and distribution system was adopted
as a worldwide standard.
The intrinsically hazardous high-voltage AC system is
being rendered unnecessarily dangerous as new solid-state
based technology enables intrinsically low voltage devices.
The voltage of the domestic ceiling lighting circuit can
now be reduced to a few volts, either AC or DC. Much of
the technology incorporated into the new LED lights has
been to cope with the relatively high mains supply voltages, when only about 3.5V DC is needed for the LED(s).
Fan motors could run at 12-24V DC.
Eliminating 230V AC connectors extends the possible
design profiles of globes and luminaires. Fixed switches
need not be connected to the luminaires, making multiway switching and other effects a design breeze with a
very low-voltage solid state system.
And why stick with 50Hz? An inductive loop in the ceiling running at 2kHz or so would enable luminaires to simply clip on with no electrical contacts, and battery backup
is easily added. Isolated from grid supply, lighting has the
potential to become far more reliable. This technology is
with us now and only needs manufacturing implementation around a new standard protocol.
6
Silicon Chip
Brushless battery-powered power tools using 18-68V
DC are breaking the barrier for rotary power devices, Dyson has now stopped the development of mains-powered
vacuum cleaner technology.
This smart motor technology is easily capable of being
adapted to a 50V DC in-home power circuits for all appliances, and 50V is also enough for hot water and stoves
using heavier cables.
So why is an evolutionary migration to low voltage, intrinsically safe, home electrical distribution system not
taking place?
I don’t see any manufacturing difficulties in transitioning from the old system to a new one but more the legal,
prescriptive nature of building and wiring requirements
in most countries including Australia, discouraging manufacturers from offering such products on an evolutionary basis.
Technology has moved so far and so quickly that it could
now be argued that our current prescriptive electrical laws
may contribute to unnecessary future deaths and injuries
from needless electrical hazards.
Kelvin Jones,
Kingston. Tasmania
Nicholas comments: while lighting and some appliances
could run from lower voltages, the current requirements of
many appliances at lower voltages (eg, washing machines,
drivers, ovens, coffee machines) would be impractically
high. In countries with 110-120V mains, some of these
machines are already a challenge to power.
Espresso machines are a good example. Units sold in
countries with 115V mains often need to use less powerful
heating elements to keep the current draw modest. Some
domestic espresso machines need 15A outlets for full performance even in Australia.
Overseas, those same machines do not work as well, not
being able to draw even the 2300W that’s available from
a mains socket here.
Regarding battery-powered vacuum cleaners, I have
found their performance to be inferior to mains-powered
vacuums, suitable only for some jobs. After vacuuming my
car using just a Dyson for a few months, it started smelling
bad. One quick pass with a mains-powered vacuum (no
flat battery halfway through the job!) had it clean again.
I’m not saying low-voltage, battery-powered vacuum
cleaners are bad; they certainly have their uses. But they
are no replacement for a mains-powered vacuum with
much more powerful suction.
Tips for soldering battery packs
I have been making up battery packs by soldering (with
great care!) NiMH batteries together. These batteries (like
some other items) are nickel-plated which leads to frustration, as the rosin flux in standard solder is not adequate
for the job.
Different fluxes suit different metals, and I heard from
someone that phosphoric acid would work as a flux. Phosphoric acid is available in dilute form as ‘rust converter’
– one common brand available in Western Australia is
Ranex, which is 35% phosphoric acid.
So I decided to try using this as a flux for soldering to
the batteries. Phosphoric acid is nasty stuff, especially
on skin, so safety precautions (gloves, goggles etc) must
be observed. And you need good ventilation, since it can
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 7
emit fumes after being applied to the
surface you wish to solder.
After applying phosphoric acid
to the nickel-plated connectors, I’ve
found that the soldering process is
easy, at least using tin-lead solder. I
haven’t tried lead-free solder yet.
Soldering iron contact with a battery
should be limited to a few seconds or
less, to avoid damaging the battery. I’ve
found that a hot soldering iron with a
bare few seconds contact with the battery has solved many of my batterypack making problems.
E. McAndrew,
Capel, WA.
Comment: it does seem unlikely that
such a simple device, plugged into a
single powerpoint and connected nowhere else, could pick up all possibly
hazardous wiring faults.
It could only really detect when the
Active-Neutral voltage is lower than
normal, or the Neutral-Earth voltage
is higher than usual.
However, depending on the nature
of the fault, these may only occur
when a high load current is flowing
through the house wiring. And a completely open Neutral would not leave
any power to operate the device, while
still constituting a hazard.
CablePI can give a false sense
of security
Another way to build
the DAB+/FM/AM radio case
On page 8 of the April 2019 issue, in
a comment on a letter from one Paul
Smith, reference is made to the Tasmanian CablePI. This device is quite
heavily touted in Tasmania as an electrical safety device. How this product
works is beyond my ken.
But I recently was asked to look at
a washing machine that gave out ‘tingles’. When I confirmed that the appliance was OK and suggested that the
house earth wiring might be at fault,
the customer stated the house was
electrically safe because the “CablePI
said so”.
My point is that this device leads
householders to believe all is well
when it may not be. It might be a
worthwhile exercise by Silicon Chip to
run your eye over the CablePI. Regards
and thanks for an excellent magazine.
Don Selby,
Tasmania.
I built your DAB+/FM/AM receiver project (January-March 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/330) and
thought that the following information
might be helpful to others.
Rather than using 25mm and 32mm
long screws through the front and
back of the case, as shown in Fig.3 on
page 43 of the March 2019 issue, I instead used four 50mm long M3 screws
through the front. All the spacers can
be fitted to these screws and then
you just need 4-6mm long M3 screws
to hold the back on. I got the 50mm
screws at my local hardware shop.
Ray Saegenschnitter,
Huntly, Vic.
Comments on 737 crashes,
Avalon air show etc
The Editorial Viewpoint in the May
2019 issue of Silicon Chip cannot be
ignored. I do not agree that “cripple-
ware” is to blame for the 737 Max disasters. I believe that the management
of both Boeing and the FAA are ignorant and arrogant, and are to blame.
Both Boeing and the FAA have good
reputations. Why then this stupidity?
The answer is that neither Boeing nor
the FAA are the same organisations of
years ago.
Like all organisations, the original
staff have been replaced by new staff in
most of the positions. These new staff
have failed. Invariably and in so many
ways they are not the same people as
those whom they replaced.
Referring back to the subject of
“crippleware”, the best way to handle
manufacturers who sell such products
is simply not to buy them. They will
soon get the message.
The article on the Avalon air show
by Dr Maddison in the April issue
sure is huge. This show highlights
just how important electronics is to
the military. Everything mentioned in
the article excepting the lightweight
armour relied on electronics. For me,
the autonomous vehicles were of the
most interest.
In the Mailbag section of the May
2019 issue of Silicon Chip, there
was another letter concerning medical alarms and the failure of the NBN
and the wireless network to provide a
reliable service. I cannot understand
why the wireless network should be
so unreliable.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but
I understand that the wireless network operates as usual when there
is a mains power supply failure until
battery power is exhausted.
With over 300 modules, shields
and accessories for Arduino &
Raspberry Pi, what parts are you
missing from your IoT toolkit?
Wiltronics Research Pty. Ltd.
5-7 Ring Road
ALFREDTON VIC 3350
8
Silicon Chip
Ph: (03) 5334 2513
Email: sales<at>wiltronics.com.au
Web:
www.wiltronics.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
ARD 2
ARDUINO-COMPATIBLE BOARDS,
SENSORS, MODULES & SHIELDS
siliconchip.com.au
But why does it have to be this way?
Surely, transmission consumes far
more power than reception.
So if the mains power has not been
restored within an hour, the wireless
network should only respond to the
000 emergency number and ignore
any normal calls. This would extend
the running time of the network considerably and hopefully, mains power will be restored before the batteries
are exhausted.
The only changes that would be required are to upgrade the firmware of
the network and to make 000 the last
contact of the emergency calling machines.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
Comments: ultimately, all organisational failures can be blamed on management. But engineers (both aviation
and software) made poor decisions,
contributing to those two airliners
crashes.
It’s hard to believe how many mistakes were made. Read this article and
weep for the stupidity: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aaqc
Keep in mind that since Silicon
Chip is an electronics-themed magazine, our coverage of the Avalon air
show is slanted towards electronics
and technology. No doubt there were
impressive exhibits at the show which
we did not cover as they were not electronics-related.
Your idea of extending the time that
mobile networks can operate after a
widespread power outage is a good
one. We’re not sure if it such a system
has been implemented – we guess not.
However, it seems likely that in a
major disaster, the batteries would still
run out eventually. The problem is that
there are more mobile towers than exchanges, and they have less space for
batteries/generators.
Yet another request for
more preamp inputs
I was thrilled to see the new preamp
project, with much-needed features
like remote (linear) volume control
and a true-bypass tone control section, but what is this – only three inputs? To me seems to be a prime example of “don’t spoil the ship for a
ha’p’orth of tar”.
I would be more inclined to build
this project if it had, say, four inputs.
Or even a few more. I can easily use
four inputs without having an over10
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
the-top range of devices to connect in
my lounge.
I need at least inputs for CD/SACD
player, turntable preamp, TV, DVD/
Blu-ray and a spare for portable players such as iPods/computers/etc without having to fumble around the back
of the unit.
Three inputs seem just so stingy.
I’m looking forward to a revised version with more.
Geoff Wood,
Wellington, NZ.
Response: we are planning to expand
the number of inputs to six in a future article.
Electret microphone crystal set
works well
I built the crystal radio set using an
electret microphone as a detector that
you published in the Circuit Notebook
section of the February 2019 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11408).
It’s a bit of a rat’s nest on a breadboard,
but I became quite excited when it
burst into life earlier today.
I purchased the microphone capsule, antenna coil and rod from Jaycar. The tuning capacitor was salvaged
from an old AM/FM tuner module and
the earphone came from a Western
Electric tone phone (a gift from an internet friend in the USA).
I can pick up seven local stations
here in Brisbane, and 1116kHz 4BC
comes booming in during their daytime power broadcast of around
17kW. The transmitter is at Nudgee
and I live in New Farm, about 15km
away. It’s a good result for such a basic lash-up!
Austin Hellier,
New Farm, Qld.
NBN does not cater for
emergency calls
I am amazed that the Editor did
not add a footnote to the letter (David
Williams, April 2019) concerning the
loss of emergency phone calling on
the NBN.
It’s a good object lesson in keeping
technical matters out of the political arena wherever possible. When
the NBN was first announced, a caller to ABC Melbourne’s morning program highlighted this very aspect of
the NBN.
The presenter (a stand-in, not the
regular person), shut down the caller
brutally and dismissively. His bias in
not wanting to hear anything critical of
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that government’s program was crystal
clear. Nothing bad could be said that
day about the NBN.
Yet the program to replace a copper
voice network with a fibre data network over which we will carry voice
is a huge and revolutionary program.
To attempt to replace in just 15 years
what has taken almost 150 years to
evolve is ‘crazy brave’.
One of the costs of doing it is the loss
of the ‘baked in’ emergency phone system. If only we could have reasoned
debates about national issues, and so
have most of us understand much of
this revolutionary program.
While the whole NBN system does
away with the fail-safe phone system,
your correspondent attaches his ire
to the HFC variety. Paradoxically, the
HFC system does provide a solid copper connection into the home, and in
theory, at least, could provide its own
power supply.
That will never be done, of course,
and even with HFC, we have no choice
now but to find alternative strategies
for emergencies. Relying on mobile
phone technology is not an intelligent
emergency strategy.
Max Williams,
Ringwood North, Vic.
Comment: we did not add a footnote
to that letter because the implications
should be clear to anyone reading that
letter (and indeed, this one).
article’s tweaking section. To make
all these changes, I had to cut several
tracks on the PCB.
I am building two of these preamplifiers. The first is to use with a modified Hifi Stereo Headphone Amplifier
(September-October 2011; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/32). To simplify power
supply arrangements, the headphone
amp will be run off a ±15V supply.
The second preamp is used in conjunction with powered studio monitor
speakers. It will be interesting to see
how the preamps perform once both
projects are up and running.
Many thanks for a great magazine.
My copies date back to 2002. I hope
that your interesting and well explained designs can continue and you
are not forced to restrict/dumb down
projects to plug-pack only operation.
I fear this may be the case after reading your April 2019 editorial on complaints about publishing mains-powered designs.
Richard Kerr,
Cessnock, NSW.
Comment: the only real benefit of using OPA2134 JFET-input op amps in
the Studio-series Preamp over the
good old NE5532s is that they allow
the relatively high (1MW) input impedance, but this is not required for most
equipment.
AC Volts/Current Indicator
Combining two preamp designs
I saw Peter Allica’s request in the
Mailbag pages of the March issue, for
help with information on Datasaver
UPSes, as he was planning to upgrade
them to use modern batteries.
Googling “Datasaver” yields a lot of
irrelevant hits, so that’s not going to be
an easy avenue. I tried a reverse lookup
of the old phone number, it’s now in
Mount Nelson and looks residential.
So we’ve struck out there.
But, a few days ago, I was looking at
Jaycar’s latest flyers online. They have
just released a range of LiFePO4 batteries they say can be used as a straight
replacement for lead-acid batteries.
I have no additional information on
these products apart from what’s in
Jaycar’s flyers and website where a
brochure can be downloaded.
I am in a similar boat to Peter. It appears that my UPS needs its third SLA
battery. It died about the time of the
bushfire scare here. I am trying to find
out whether I could put one of these
new LiFePO4 batteries into my UPS;
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12
Silicon Chip
I have recently finished building
the Studio Series Stereo Preamplifier
from October 2005 (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/3203).
I modified the circuit to use NE5532
op amps instead of OPA2134s, as they
are easier to get and cheaper, with
similar performance. I also changed
the component values around them to
those specified for the Ultra-LD Stereo
Preamplifier, November & December
2011 (siliconchip.com.au/Series/34).
The reason I didn’t simply build
the 2011 design is that I need more
than three stereo inputs. The 2005
board suited my requirements, with
six inputs.
I did not fit the 1MW resistors at the
input to the preamp, and I am fitting
6.8kW resistors between the wiper and
ground ends of the 10kW logarithmic
volume control potentiometer (VR1). I
calculate that this will provide a suitably low impedance to the input of the
second op amp, in line with your 2011
Australia’s electronics magazine
Suggestions for UPS battery
replacement
siliconchip.com.au
first, I have to ascertain if that is the
only fault.
On face value, it would seem we
can both use these new batteries; they
cost roughly twice what I paid for
the SLA replacement 18 months ago.
However, further information would
reassure me.
David Morton,
Geeveston, Tas.
Up-rated inverter suggestion for
the UPS project
You used a Giandel inverter in
your UPS project (May-July 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/323),
which I am yet to build.
When I went to the Giandel website, I found that it was evasive on
details. Also, the prices were suspiciously low for the specifications given. I also found some people on TheBackShed forum complaining about
the build quality of Giandel inverters
(siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqb).
Are you planning on doing an updated project, hopefully with options
for a higher power version? What
about using Jaycar Cat MI5718, rated
at 2200W?
I have had trouble starting my domestic refrigerator and freezer from
other 12V and 24V inverters. I have
read several readers letters in Silicon
Chip and understand that the problem
is the extremely high starting current
that the induction motors have.
I tried a severe test with the Jaycar
Cat MI5718 inverter. I turned both my
(130W) refrigerator and (90W) freezer
off and cabled them both through a
switch to the Jaycar inverter, which
was running without power saving,
to prevent the soft-start feature from
working.
When I turned the switch on, the
Jaycar inverter started both devices
at the same time, quiet as a mouse,
no complaints at all. You may be able
to patch into the remote control to be
able to start and stop the inverter, as
you have done with the 433 MHz remote control mains switches.
I shall follow the project with interest.
Patrick Berry,
Turramurra, NSW.
Response: we chose the Giandel inverter because its price was very good
for the specifications given, and we
have not had any trouble with it in
our testing.
Note that with our UPS, since it is
siliconchip.com.au
usually switching over to inverter power just after mains power has failed,
the devices are already running and
so their ‘inrush’ at switchover should
not be too severe.
The Jaycar unit you mention does
look very good, and given its specifications, the price is not unreasonable. It
is somewhat more expensive than the
one we used in our UPS project.
It probably wouldn’t be necessary to
figure out how to control that inverter
remotely since it has a power switch
which can be set permanently to on.
You could then rely on the inverter’s
under-voltage lockout feature to shut
it down when the battery is flat. And
the built-in solar charger is a really
nice feature.
Individual responsibility is
an outdated concept
It was interesting to read that someone had felt your magazine was unsafe, due to some projects being mains
powered (Editorial, April 2019). What
surprised me is that you seemed surprised at the allegation.
Our country has a legal system now
in place where self-responsibility no
longer exists; the government believes
the average person is too stupid to be
allowed to do anything without constant supervision, hence the Nanny
State.
No matter what the situation, if
something goes wrong then the immediate action is to find out where
blame can be assigned, with zero effort, rather than putting effort into finding remedies. It’s far more important
to sack someone because vengeance is
what matters.
Every passing day proves Douglas
Adams was a prophet.
Anon.
Comments on letters in
the March issue
I wanted to comment on a few items
raised in the Mailbag section of recent
Silicon Chip magazines, mainly letters
from the March 2019 issue.
Regarding LED lights which flicker
when used with a dimmer, I have had
this problem and so has one of my
friends. We tried a range of different
commercial dimmers, but it made no
difference which one I used. The LED
lights still flickered at times.
Regarding the Majestic loudspeaker
cabinet, you are right that loudspeaker
design is a much more complex subAustralia’s electronics magazine
ject than it seems. I suggest that your
correspondent buys a copy of Vance
Dickason’s “Loudspeaker Design
Cookbook”. It’s fantastic.
There are also many loudspeaker
design computer programs available;
some free, some at low cost. I have
used them and they are also fantastic.
Regarding “Joseph Lucas is a modern hero” by Dave Dobeson; while we
can be smug about the early electrics in
cars compared to what we have now,
it is worth remembering that back in
the day, they started from scratch. Today’s automotive electronics is more
evolutionary and builds on decades
of experience.
Our ‘older’ vehicles do not use the
Kettering System but it served well in
millions of cars for many years and
also in aeroplanes. Yes, analog engine
management systems present many
hassles today, as do older, high-quality audio amplifiers/receivers, stoves
with electronic controls and similar
items where the IC’s are not available
anymore.
As for your editorial in that issue,
“We all deserve a right to repair”, I
couldn’t agree more. Independent
automotive workshops are having an
industry-wide battle about this at the
moment.
The ACCC has taken some action,
but I am not sure if it is broad enough
to satisfy the workshops’ needs. The
availability of expertise is a different
question and always will be – as it is
for any discipline.
Regarding Fred Wild’s comments on
the usefulness of an automotive Low
Coolant Alarm, it is an excellent idea.
The modern practice of using temperature warning lights or gauges does not
cover the situation where a water leak
leaves the temperature sensor in free
air, so it is reading almost no temperature at all, even though the engine is
overheating.
Another good solution is to fit a
device like the “Engine Watchdog”
which uses a temperature sensor
clamped to the hottest part of the engine block.
It is linked to a temperature display
and warning buzzer which can be set
to any particular temperature. It can
also be used to control additional cooling fans etc. It is not dependent on the
presence of coolant so it could save
expensive repairs.
Ranald Grant,
Brisbane, Qld.
SC
June 2019 13
Bet you’ve never heard of
by Dr David Maddison
bathymetry [buh-thim-i-tree]
noun
the measurement of the depths of oceans, seas, or
other large bodies of water.
the data derived from such measurement,
especially as compiled in a topographic map.
Bathymetric image of
HMAS Sydney. See
www.sea.museum/2016/11/18/
into-the-abyss/discovery-ofthe-sydney-and-kormoranshipwreck-sites
T
Modern side scan
and multibeam sonar
systems allow vessels to
build a map of the seabed
quickly. These are used for
navigation, hazard detection, finding
sunken ships or aircraft, planning cable
routes and even looking for fish. Some of
these systems are now within the price range of
the amateur mariner. This article describes how those
systems evolved from a length of rope with knots in it.
oday, bathymetric data is obtained mostly by electronic
techniques, either via acoustic systems (sonar, sound navigation
ranging) or to a lesser extent, optical
systems (lasers or reflected sunlight).
Seabed imaging and mapping, from
shallow coastal areas to deep oceanic
waters, is important for the following
purposes, among others:
• navigation of vessels in shallow
water.
• submarine navigation.
• knowing where to drop anchor, as
the water cannot be deeper than the
anchor chain is long.
• mapping the location of rocks,
reefs and other marine navigational
hazards.
• locating shipwrecks for histori14
Silicon Chip
cal purposes/archaeology or for hazard avoidance, salvage or recreational diving.
• searching for downed aircraft, such
as Malaysia Airlines flight MH370,
presumed crashed into the sea.
• placement of oil rigs and underwater cables and pipeline.
• knowing where to dredge to create
or restore shipping channels.
• recovery of underwater mineral
deposits.
Since the oceans cover around 71%
of the Earth’s surface, these mapping
tasks are much more significant, and
certainly more difficult than land mapping. In most areas, the ocean bottom
is not visible and depth measurement
is difficult.
Apart from taking accurate depth
Australia’s electronics magazine
measurements, it is also important to
accurately know the location of each
depth reading (latitude/longitude).
This benefits enormously from the
development of GPS and other satellite navigation systems. We published
a detailed article on augmented GPS
technology, accurate to less than a
metre, in the September 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11222).
In nautical terminology, “sounding” means the measurement of depth
by any means, using sound waves or
otherwise. This could be done using
a long stick, a rope or laser light. The
laser airborne depth sounder (LADS)
was an Australian invention, first deployed in 1977.
State-of-the-art bathymetry systems
are usually based on side scan or multisiliconchip.com.au
beam sonar, using an array of transducers and powerful computers to form
3D images of the seabed or river bed
under a ship, or a towed sonar array.
But electronic/acoustic water depth
measurements go back over 100 years
and simpler methods have been in use
since antiquity.
Fig.1 shows a comparison of the
three most common modern sounding techniques. We’ll now describe the
history of sounding techniques, starting from the beginning and proceeding to the present and the latest sonar
and LIDAR systems.
Historical bathymetry
Seabed mapping has been performed since ancient times. It was
practised by the Ancient Egyptians,
who used poles and ropes, and also
the ancient Greeks and Romans, who
used a rope with a weight on the end
to determine depth, known as a lead
line or sounding line – see Fig.2.
Such lines were the primary method of determining seabed depth right
up until the 20th century, and are
still used today a backup to electronic
depth sounding systems (sonar).
In the 19th century, attempts were
made to automate the lead line sounding process. These employed mechanisms which would indicate when the
seabed had been reached.
Among these were Edward Massey’s
sounding machine, employed by the
Royal Navy, who purchased 1750 of
them in 1811. There was also Peter
Burt’s buoy and nipper device.
These devices were designed to
work up to around 150 fathoms’ depth
(275m). In the late 19th century, the
installation of undersea telegraph cables created a much greater demand
for depth measurement.
Lord Kelvin (then Sir William
Thomson) developed and patented
Fig.2: a lead line or sounding line
showing different markers at traditional depths of 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15,
17 and 20 fathoms. A fathom is today
defined as exactly six feet or 1.8288m.
Fathoms and feet are still used on
US nautical charts whereas other
countries use metres.
Fig.1: three different sounding methods in use today. A lead line or sounding line, used since ancient times, gives
spot measurements; a single beam sonar is capable of giving continuous measurements although some still give spot
measurements; multibeam sonar can scan a wide area in one pass and can quickly build up a seabed map. Laser systems
such as LADS give similar results to multibeam sonar.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 15
Fig.4 (above): a depth map of Port Jackson (Sydney) made
using sounding lines from Roe’s 1822 survey. Note how
the soundings appear as tracks indicating the path of the
vessel.
Fig.3 (left): one version of Lord Kelvin’s mechanical
sounding machine.
his device in 1876, shown in Fig.3. It featured piano wire
and a hand-cranked or motorised drum for winding. There
was a dial on the drum to indicated the length of line let
out. This device and later versions of it were in use with
the Royal Navy until the 1960s.
Using a sounding line, maps were made by periodically
measuring the depth while at sea and mapping those depths
in relation to landmarks (if in coastal areas) or through latitude and longitude measurements taken with a chronometer or sextant if at sea – see Fig.4.
to the amount of line that has to be reeled out. The survey
vessel usually has to be stationary but the line can be swept
away by currents, and it is sometimes difficult to tell when
the bottom has been reached. It’s a very slow method, even
when it’s feasible.
For these reasons, alternative means were sought to
measure depth and these were developed in the early 20th
century.
Use of sound waves
Sounding lines are impractical for very deep water due
Fig.5 (above): the basic principle of echo-sounding.
Fig.6 (right): the Fessenden Oscillator transducer, initially
used for detecting nearby icebergs and later for making
depth measurements.
16
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the ocean floor between Newport, Rhode Island
(USA) and Gibraltar, as determined by the USS Stewart in
1922. This survey used the Hayes Sonic Depth Finder and
found what was thought at the time to be the lost continent
of Atlantis. From Popular Science, May 1923.
The use of sound to detect objects in the water was first
recognised by Leonardo da Vinci in 1490. He is said to have
placed his ear to a tube which was immersed in water and
listened for distant vessels.
The fact that sound waves travel at a known velocity
in water and are reflected from solid surfaces such as the
seabed is the basis upon which echo sounding and sonar
were later developed.
The basic principle of echo sounding to determine depth
is that an acoustic pulse is emitted from the device and it
travels through the water column at a predictable speed.
It strikes the seabed and is reflected to a receiver (microphone). At a basic level, the depth of the water is then computed by taking half of the return time for the pulse and
multiplying by the speed of sound in water.
For example, if a pulse took 0.8 seconds to return and
the speed of sound in water was 1500m/s, the water depth
would be 0.8s x 1500m/s ÷ 2 = 600 metres.
In practice, sound velocity can vary slightly in water due
to differences in salinity, temperature and depth. These effects can and usually are taken into account. In general, a
1°C increase in temperature results in a 4m/s increase in
the speed of sound, an increase in depth of 100m results
in an increase of 1.7m/s and an increase of one part per
thousand of salinity results in an increase of 1m/s.
Note that temperature usually decreases with depth,
causing the speed of sound to decrease, but at the same
Fig.9: the Dorsey Fathometer as installed on the SS John W.
Brown, a US Liberty Ship during World War II.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: a map of the soundings taken by the USS Stewart
across the Strait of Gibraltar in 1922.
time the speed increases with depth (or pressure). The
combination of the two effects can result in a sound velocity profile that decreases in the first few hundred metres,
then increases at greater depth.
Early echo-sounding devices
The earliest acoustic depth measuring devices were
known as echo ranging devices or fathometers. Today it is
known as sonar (“SOund Navigation And Ranging”). These
devices used a single acoustic ‘beam’ to measure the seabed
depth and as a consequence, can only measure the depth
directly beneath a vessel, just like the lead line (see Fig.5).
In 1912, Canadian Reginald Fessenden developed the
first electronic or electromechanical acoustic echo ranging device (Fig.6). It used a mechanical oscillator that was
similar in design to a voice coil loudspeaker. It could gen-
Fig.10: an internal view of the head unit of a Dorsey
Fathometer from the 1925 operator’s manual. Note the
electromechanical nature of the componentry. There were
also other electronics boxes.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 17
Open source seafloor mapping software
Open source software called MB-System is available, which can
processes sonar data to create seabed maps. It supports most
commercial data formats. The system operates on the Poseidon
Linux distribution or macOS.
Readers could create their own seabed maps from publicly available data or perhaps with their own data, if they have a boat with
an echo sounder. You can download it from siliconchip.com.au/
link/aanx or see videos on their YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/user/MBSystem1993
Fig.11: the Dorsey Fathometer in use, 1931.
erate a sound wave and then it could be immediately reconfigured as a type of microphone, to listen for echos.
This system was first tested in Boston Harbor, then in
1914 off Newfoundland, Canada (the RMS Titanic had recently sunk in that area). The machine was shown to have
had an ability to detect icebergs out to about 3km, although
it could not determine their bearing due to the long wavelength used and the small size of the transducer compared
to the wavelength.
In this mode of operation, the device relied on the propagation of waves horizontally through the water, but it was
incidentally noticed that there would sometimes be an echo
which was not associated with any iceberg. These were from
a vertical wave reflecting off the seabed. This was the impetus behind the idea to use the device for depth sounding.
The device was also shown to be capable of use for underwater telephony. The machine operated at 540Hz and
later models operated at 1000Hz and 3000Hz, and were
used up until and during World War 2, for detecting vessels and mines. No examples are known to exist today.
Fig.12: a hand-painted map by landscape artist Heinrich C. Berann, based on the 1950s and 1960s sounding work of Bruce
C. Heezen and Marie Tharp. It shows a continuous rift valley along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge along with similar structures
in the Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden. Their discovery led to the acceptance of the theory of
plate tectonics and continental drift. (US Library of Congress control number 2010586277)
18
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.13: topological map from the US Coast and Geodetic
Survey (C&GS; the predecessor of today’s NOAA), showing
one of the first comprehensive surveys of the continental slope
of the USA. It was produced in 1932 with the most advanced
echo sounding and radio acoustic ranging navigation systems
available at the time. Radio acoustic ranging involved
detonating an explosive charge near the ship and listening
for the arrival of sound waves at remote locations, recording
their time of arrival and reporting it back to the ship by radio.
Fessenden won the 1929 Scientific American Gold Medal
for his achievement. A detailed description of the device
that was written in 1914 can be seen at siliconchip.com.
au/link/aanw
In 1916 and 1917, Frenchman Paul Langevin and Russian Constantin Chilowsky received US patents for ultrasonic submarine detectors, one of which used an electrostatic “singing condensor” transducer and the other used
piezoelectric quartz crystals.
In 1916, British Lord Rutherford and Robert Boyle were
also working on the use of piezoelectric quartz crystals in
Fig.14: a river survey using single beam sonar readings to
determine the depth profile of a river where other methods
would be unsuitable (Source: Ayers Associates).
transducers to detect submarines. Following this, in 1919
and 1920 the French performed sounding surveys using
their prototype device, then in 1922, surveyed a telegraph
cable route from Marseilles to Philippeville, Algeria. This
was the first claimed practical use of echo sounding.
Also in 1922, American Dr Harvey Hayes tested his Sonic
Depth Finder on a US Navy ship. It used a Fessenden Oscillator and was said to be the first device capable of deep
water sounding.
On one of its first tests on the USS Stewart, the ship sailed
from Providence, Rhode Island to Gibraltar in nine days,
during which 900 soundings were taken between 9-3200
fathoms depth (16-5850m) – see Figs.7&8.
The soundings were even taken while the vessel was
cruising at 23 knots. That voyage was an enormous suc-
Fig.15 (above): an image of a steamship wreck in the Gulf
of Finland, 33m deep, made with a StarFish sonar.
Fig.16 (right): the compact, portable StarFish 452F sonar
kit. The towed body or towfish is yellow and 38cm long.
The resulting data is displayed on a PC. It has a range of
up to 100m on each side; larger systems have greater range
and performance. This system is available online for US
$6637, excluding GST and delivery costs. It operates at
450kHz. Full-size towfish are 1-2m long.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 19
Fig.17: an image of a World War 2 era PB4Y bomber
in 53m of water in Lake Washington, USA made with
StarFish side scan sonar.
Fig.18: multibeam echo sounding uses narrow beams. This
shows the sort of topography which can be generated.
(Source: NOAA Photo Library, Image ID: fis01334)
cess, with many undersea topography discoveries made
and, in a time before highly accurate means of navigation
such as GPS, US Navy officials said they expected to be
able to navigate across the oceans using such soundings
to observe undersea topography.
The Sonic Depth Finder was operated by adjusting the
interval between when the signal being transmitted and the
echo of the previous signal being received. When a transmitted signal and a received signal coincided, that corresponded to a calibrated dial position indicating the depth.
Despite the overall success of the USS Stewart voyage,
the instrument relied on operator skill to a significant degree and had inherent limitations. So it was not regarded
as suitable for precision surveys. This led to the development of a new device, considered to be the first practical
echo sounding machine. It was called the Dorsey Fathometer, invented by American Herbert Dorsey in 1923.
One advantage of this device compared to others is that
a ship could take soundings at full speed. One model of
the device could measure depth between 8 and 3000 fathoms (15-5500m). See Fig.9, Fig.10 and Fig.11.
It was said to have an accuracy of 7.6cm (three inches),
but it’s unlikely that this could be achieved in reality due
to variations in sound velocity through the water and so
on. The display consisted of a spinning neon light which
would flash at the point on the dial corresponding to the
measured depth.
Early sonar devices were too large to put on smaller
vessels, which were needed for harbour work, so up until
the 1940s, lead lines were still used for such survey work.
Eventually, the sonar equipment became small enough that
it could be installed on smaller vessels.
Along with improvements in the electronics came improvements in their transducers. The operating frequency
was increased beyond the audible range, into the ultrasonic
region, and transmitters and receivers shifted from electromechanical to piezoelectric devices. Improvements in
recording also enabled continuous measurement of depth,
rather than just periodic spot measurements.
During this period, many discoveries were made about
underwater geological structures, such as the mid-Atlantic
Ridge, seamounts and many other geological features, especially after WWII. Before this, the seabed was thought
to be mostly dull and featureless.
These discoveries, mostly during the late 1950s and
early 1960s, helped lead to the development of the theory
of plate tectonics, which states that the continents are on
geological “plates” that drift due to motions between the
plate boundaries (see Fig.12). It is now accepted as fact.
Fig.19: a Kongsberg multibeam echo sounder mounted on
survey vessel. Note the partially visible person at bottom
right for an idea of its size.
Fig.20: a typical survey pattern for multibeam sonar. The
paths overlap on purpose, to give improved confidence in
the data. (Courtesy: Geoscience Australia)
20
Silicon Chip
Modern echo sounding technology
In modern echo-sounding or sonar, there are three main
categories: single beam, side scan and multibeam.
Single beam sonar is the traditional type and is a prov-
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Figs.21: multibeam maps of seamount chain discovered by the CSIRO in 2018, 400km east of Tasmania. The seamounts
rise about 3000m above the seabed, which is 5000m deep. These are important areas of biodiversity.
en, relatively inexpensive technology. Such devices are
usually mounted on the hull of a vessel. They give depth
information from a single ‘spot’ beneath a vessel but no
information is given as to what is off to the side. They are
commonly used for navigation purposes.
Single beam sonar can also be used for mapping and has
the advantage of lower cost, less data to deal with and the
ability to be used in shallow and otherwise inaccessible
waters such as rivers, where multibeam sonar is not practical. But it gives much less complete information than
other methods (see Fig.14).
Sound waves generated by a single beam sonar system
are typically at 12-500kHz and the approximate sound
beam width (shaped like a cone) is 10-30°, depending on
the transducer used.
A frequency of 200kHz is typical for depths under 100m,
and since higher frequency sound is attenuated over shorter distances, 20-33kHz is typical in deeper water. Lower
frequencies are also better in turbulent water.
Additional processing performed on single beam sonar
data may include taking into account the vessel attitude
(roll, heave, pitch and yaw), tides and speed of sound in
the water at the location. The spatial resolution of mapping
data obtained with single beam sonar depends on factors
such as the survey route and depth of water.
echos are received from multiple distances off to each side
after each ping.
The main purpose of side scan sonar is to produce images of the seabed, rather than mapping data. Images are
generated based upon the amount of reflected sound energy as a function of time on one axis and the distance the
towfish has travelled on the other axis (effectively, the next
set of ping data).
The returned data is analysed and processed to produce
a picture-like image (see Figs.15 & 17). The seabed and objects on it, such as ship or aircraft wrecks or obstructions,
can be imaged well. However, this type of system is not
so suitable for accurate depth data. No image is produced
in the central part of a side scan image, which is between
the two side beams.
Man-made objects, typically containing metal which reflects sound energy well, show up brightly on the image.
Sound frequencies in the range of 100-500kHz are typically used. One such device of note is GLORIA (Geological
LOng Range Inclined Asdic) which is an extremely longrange system that can scan the seabed 22km out to each
side, and has a ping rate of twice per minute.
Multibeam sonar
Unlike single beam sonar which transmits acoustic energy downwards, side scan sonar transmits acoustic energy
to the side. It does this (usually) from a towed underwater
“pod” known as a towfish (Fig.16).
A fan-shaped beam is emitted from both sides of the
towfish. Rather than just receiving one return signal from
one spot after a pulse, like single beam sonar, many return
Multibeam (swathe) sonar is similar to side scan sonar
but the data is processed differently. Whereas side-scan sonar images are produced primarily based on the strength
of the echos, with multibeam sonar, the travel time of the
echos is measured instead. This type of sonar is mostly
used for mapping (see Figs.18-22).
A multibeam sonar system transmits a broad, fan-shaped
pulse of sound energy like a side scan sonar, but “beamforming” is used for transmitting and receiving the data,
yielding narrow slices of around 1°. There are therefore a
Fig.22: multibeam sonar is not only for producing static
images such as of the seabed. It can also image dynamic
phenomena such as methane gas seeping from the seabed
in the Gulf of Mexico. (Source: NOAA, Image ID: fish2946,
NOAA’s Fisheries Collection 2010)
Fig.23: the 208 x 244 x 759mm EdgeTech 6205s hybrid multibeam and side scan sonar instrument. It operates at 230,
550, 850 and 1600kHz and has a range of 250m at the lowest
frequency and 35m at the highest, used for side scan. For
multibeam work at 230kHz, it has a swathe width of 400m.
Side scan sonar
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June 2019 21
Fig.25: underwater structures cause the sea level to change.
This can be measured with satellites. A seamount might be
a few kilometres high and produce a bump in the sea level
of a few metres, which is in the detectable range.
Fig.24: satellite-derived bathymetry image of an island in
the Great Barrier Reef. (Courtesy EOMAP)
large number of independent beams in a multibeam sonar
and for each one, there is a known angle and return time.
Knowing the speed of sound in the water being surveyed
and the angle of the received beam, it is then possible to
determine the depth and range of the object that the signal bounced off, and thus a map of the seabed can be created. Data has to be adjusted for heave, pitch, roll, yaw and
speed of the survey vessel or towfish.
Different frequencies are used. Higher frequencies give
improved image resolution but less range while lower frequencies give less resolution but a greater range. The optimal mix of frequencies is chosen for each situation, to
give the best results.
The discovery of beamforming
The concept of beamforming was invented by Australian radio astronomer Bernard Mills, who used an array
of antennas (two rows of 250 half-dipole elements) that,
by adjusting the phasing of the elements, could produce
a pencil-like beam which could be steered across the sky.
The telescope was built in 1954 at Badgery’s Creek,
near Sydney. The Mills Cross beamforming technique (as
it became known) was used by American U2 spy planes
for radar mapping over the Soviet Union between 1956
and 1960.
After a U2 was shot down in 1960, engineers at General
Instrument Corporation, who made the U2 radar, looked
for other uses for the technology.
The principles used were just as valid for acoustic energy as for radio energy, so they decided to use it to produce
the first multibeam sonar.
This was then adopted by the US Navy and tested in 1963,
with a system known as SASS or Sonar Array Sounding
System. It operated at 12kHz and had 61 1° beams.
This system was classified (ie, secret) then and even today,
some of the bathymetric data produced by it remains classified or is released in a smoothed or lower-resolution format.
Fig.26: a map of global seabed topography based on both satellite altimetry (gravity-based) and ship-based depth soundings,
from the US Government agency NOAA. The gravity data is used where sparse ship-based depth readings are unavailable.
22
Silicon Chip
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Fig.28: the LADS
equipment. (Courtesy: RAN)
Fig.27: the general scheme for one particular implementation of airborne LIDAR. This image shows its use for both
bathymetric and land topographic imaging and the expected
return waveforms for the laser pulses. An infrared beam
(1064nm) is reflected from the surface of the water while the
green beam (532nm) is reflected from the seabed. (Courtesy:
Dimitri Lague, Université de Rennes)
At about the same time as SASS, a Narrow Beam Echo
Sounder (NBES) intended for non-military use was produced which had 16 beams of 2-2/3°.
The NBES technology became what is now known as the
SeaBeam Classic, which was the first commercial multibeam sonar system and was installed on Australia’s survey
vessel HMAS Cook in 1977.
In modern multibeam systems, the transducers can either be attached to the vessel (Fig.19) or be in the form of
a towfish or remotely operated vehicle.
Note that while we said that multibeam sonar systems
work based on the echo delay rather than strength, it is
also possible to determine and process the echo strength
to determine how reflective each particular object on the
bottom is, giving a more detailed (eg, false coloured) map
– see Fig.22.
Most modern multibeam systems can also produce backscattered images as for side scan sonar, but the images pro-
duced are not as good as a dedicated side scan system. This
is because a multibeam system will produce one backscatter
data point per beam, whereas a dedicated side scan system
will produce essentially a continuous series of values and
therefore the result has a much higher resolution.
It is therefore important to choose the appropriate instrument for the information that is required. Some systems
are hybrids and combine side scan imaging systems with
multibeam bathymetric systems. (See Fig.23).
Satellite bathymetry
Satellite-derived bathymetry or satellite optical bathymetry uses optical sensors on satellites to detect sunlight reflected from the seabed to determine depth. Mathematical
algorithms are used to calculate depth depending upon
such factors as the wavelengths of light reflected and the
amount of each wavelength, seabed types and reflectance
of the seabed (see Fig.24).
These systems typically use specific “registration” points
of known depth and properties for calibration. The depth
capability of the system depends on the turbidity of the
water. In very turbid water, it might be 0-5m, in moderately turbid water it might be 10-25m and in clear waters, it
might be 25-35m.
Horizontal accuracy is similar to the resolution of the
satellite imaging sensor, which is typically 2-5m, depending on the sensor, and depth accuracy is around 10-20%
of the actual depth. A similar technique can also be used
from aircraft.
The search for MH370
Australia was extensively involved in the search for missing Malaysian Airlines flight MH370, and this was discussed in the Silicon
Chip article of September 2015 on Autonomous Underwater Vehicles (AUVs) - see siliconchip.com.au/Article/9002
The search involved the acquisition of high-resolution side scan
and multibeam sonar images of remote parts of the southern Indian Ocean which had never before been imaged. The search was
in two phases.
Phase 1 used multibeam sonar mounted on a vessel to map
the ocean floor, since only low-resolution satellite gravity measurements were available.
Phase 2 involved lowering a “towfish” from the search vessel
thousands of metres, to within 100m of the seabed, where it produced photograph-like side scan and multibeam sonar images up
to 1km on either side.
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The search was one of the largest marine surveys ever and
involved the collection of 278,000km2 of bathymetric data and
710,000km2 of data overall.
The data was released to the public on 28th June 2018. The
imagery revealed unknown shipwrecks, whale bones and geological features.
Although the remains of MH370 were never found, the extensive data set is of scientific value and of general interest, so there
was at least some return on the many millions of dollars spent on
the search, even though the aircraft was unfortunately not found.
A very interesting interactive “story map” showing the data and
features of interest has been placed on the web at siliconchip.
com.au/link/aany
You can download Phase 1 data from siliconchip.com.au/link/
aanz and Phase 2 data from siliconchip.com.au/link/aao0
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 23
Fig.29: the aircraft used to carry LADS, a de Havilland
Dash 8-202. (Courtesy: RAN)
Fig.30: typical LADS survey data. (Courtesy: RAN)
Another form of satellite bathymetry, satellite radar altimetry, relies on the fact that structures beneath the ocean
alter the gravitational pull over that area and cause changes in the ocean surface level, which can be measured by
satellites using radar.
This results in a low-resolution map of an area showing
general features such as underwater mountains and mountain ranges. See Figs. 25 & 26.
other is reflected from the seabed. The relative distances
from the aircraft are computed and the depth of the seabed
below the sea surface can therefore be determined.
The laser used is a Neodymium:Yttrium-Aluminum-Garnet (Nd:YAG) laser which typically emits in the infrared.
The beam also goes through a frequency doubler to produce
a green beam. The infrared beam is reflected off the ocean
surface and the green beam is reflected from the seabed.
The beam has a pulse repetition rate of 990Hz.
The system can measure depths of 0-80m and measure
surface topography (land) from 0-50m in height. The aircraft flies at an altitude of 1200-3000 feet (360-915m) at a
speed of 140-200 knots (260-370km/h). The beam (swath)
width is 114-598m; for standard surveys, it is 193m. Data
points are between 2-6m apart across the beam.
The aircraft can go on sorties of up to seven hours, which
it does about 140 times per year. Note that this system is
suitable only for relatively shallow waters (ie, up to 80m
deep); other sounding systems are used elsewhere.
The Royal Australian Navy, in conjunction with Fugro
LADS Corporation and other subcontractors, operates the
LADS system from Cairns airport and the data that is collected is sent to the Australian Hydrographic Office in Wollongong for processing.
Laser Airborne Depth Sounder (LADS)
and LIDAR
Lasers can be used from aircraft to determine seabed
depth and such systems are generally known as LIDAR
(LIght Detection And Ranging) – see Fig.27. Australia was
a pioneer in developing this technology and has a system
known as LADS (see Figs.28-30).
Australia has a vast ocean area within its territorial waters and a huge area of search and rescue responsibility
(53 million km2, or 10% of the earth’s surface) and many
of these waters (such as reef areas) are hard to map due to
their relative inaccessibility and lack of existing charts.
Some of the charts used until recent times (the 1970s)
were actually made by Captain Cook!
There was therefore an urgent need to develop a system
that could remotely measure ocean depths, and this was
produced by the then Defence Science and Technology
Organisation (DSTO) which started feasibility trials of the
LADS system in 1977.
An aircraft flies over an area of interest and an onboard
laser system emits two beams (originating from a single laser), one of which is reflected off the ocean surface and the
Fig.31: comparison of multibeam sonar and satellite data
imagery around an area known as Broken Ridge showing
new multibeam sonar mapping data in colour, compared
with older, much lower satellite resolution data in
monochrome. (Source: Geoscience Australia)
24
Silicon Chip
Mapping under the seabed
In our article on A Home-Grown Aussie Supercomputer
in the November 2018 issue, we described how Downunder
Geosystems uses their supercomputers to process the data
from huge arrays of hydrophones – up to 10,000 in a single
survey (siliconchip.com.au/Article/11300).
Unlike the sonar systems described above, they do not
use transducers to produce sound waves. Because they are
mapping the area under the seabed, they need powerful
soundwaves to penetrate the rock strata.
So a large underwater air cannon is used to generate the
initial sound waves.
Some of these pass through the seabed and reflect off
layers below, including oil and gas deposits, and are reflected up to the surface where they are picked up by the
towed hydrophone arrays and recorded for later processing.
The vast amount of data and complex reflections mean
that it takes days of processing by a huge supercomputer
to turn the resulting data into a 3D map of the area under
the seabed. This is ideal for determining where to drill for
oil and gas.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
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An AM/FM/CW Sc
RF Signal Genera
This low-cost, easy-to-build and user-friendly RF signal generator
covers from 100kHz–50MHz and 70–120MHz, and is usable up to
150MHz. It generates CW (unmodulated), AM and FM signals suitable
for a wide range of tests. Its output level is adjustable anywhere
between -93dBm and +7dBm and it has an accurate frequency
display. It also includes a scanning function for filter alignment.
I
’ve always wanted a good AM/FM
HF/VHF signal generator. I have
tried to meet that need with a variety of designs over the years, some
analog, others using DDS chips.
More recently, I have tried low-cost
fractional-N oscillator chips, including the Si5351A. These were only suitable in specific circumstances, and did
26
Silicon Chip
not make for a good general-purpose
test instrument.
Obviously, it’s possible to purchase
an RF signal generator, new or used,
but I couldn’t afford the price of a good
one. Cheap signal generators lack adequate performance and useful functions. Those with adequate performance are usually too expensive for
Australia’s electronics magazine
most hobbyists or are unreliable and
difficult and/or expensive to maintain.
I have seen some designs published,
but these are typically simple analog
LC-based designs with coverage up to
around 150MHz, in a series of five or
six switch-selected bands.
Most lack accurate frequency readouts or adequate stability. Spurious
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canning HF/VHF
ator
Part 1
by Andrew Woodfield, ZL2PD
and harmonic outputs can also be a
problem.
(See the list of references at the end
of this article for three such designs
that I considered and rejected).
Table 1 (overleaf) shows what is
available at the moment. I rejected all
of these options for one reason or another – inadequate performance, lack
of features, high price or unreliability.
With few exceptions, the output levels of most of these generators are quite
limited. Those with a variable output
level typically use a simple potentiometer, with little regard to varying
output impedance or accuracy.
Output levels are also often too low
for use in many typical applications.
Modulation, where available, is often
limited. And, finally, some otherwise
useful digital-based designs are now
difficult or impossible to build due to
obsolete parts or unavailable software
or PCB layouts.
Basic analog and digital PLL-based
RF signal generators are available
between about $200 and $300. The
analog generators offer basic CW, AM
or FM modulation. Output level and
modulation depth on the low-cost
analog generators are typically controlled via internally mounted trimpots adjusted through small holes in
the panel.
The low-cost digital signal generators only offer FM and appear aimed
at the two-way radio industry.
These instruments are all perfectly
functional, but for hobbyists, these
features are too limited. To use them
effectively, you would also need extra
equipment such as a frequency counter, attenuators, amplifiers and a level
meter. It’s far easier to have these features built into the generator.
As Table 1 shows, moving up in
the market significantly increases the
price. Used equipment is available at
lower cost, but many otherwise excellent instruments have recognised
spare parts or reliability issues as the
equipment ages.
So I needed to come up with my own
design that would tick all the boxes,
and that is just what I have done. See
the table below which lists its features
and performance figures.
Features and specifications
Coverage
Tuning Steps
Accuracy & stability
Output level
Attenuation steps
Output socket
Spurious and harmonics
AM
FM
Scanning
Display
Power control
Controls
Power supply
Dimensions
Weight
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Specification
100kHz-50MHz, 70MHz-120MHz
10Hz to 1MHz in decade increments
Within 150Hz at 30MHz (typical), 0-40°C, 0-80% humidity
-93dBm to +7dBm (approximate)
0-80dB in 20dB steps (switched) + 0-20dB (variable)
SMA
Typically better than -30dBc
30% modulation <at> 1kHz
NB (12.5kHz spacing), 1.75kHz deviation <at> 1kHz (60%)
WB (25kHz spacing), 3kHz deviation <at> 1kHz (60%)
BC (12.5kHz spacing), 50kHz deviation <at> 1kHz (60%)
Programmable start and stop frequencies
10, 20, 50, 100, 200 or 500 steps/sweep
16x2 alphanumeric LCD
Soft on/off switch
Two knobs and eight switches
9-12VDC at 250mA
160 x 110 x 25mm (excluding knobs)
160 x 110 x 45mm (including knobs)
~250g
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Comments
Usable up to 150MHz
User-selected
Can be enhanced with software calibration
50termination
Within specified coverage frequency range
Suitable for standard broadcast FM receivers
1kHz resolution
Auto step size calculation
June 2019 27
Design approach
As shown in Fig.1, a modern signal
generator consists of five functional
blocks: the RF oscillator, the modulator, RF buffer amplifier, a variable
attenuator to control the output level, and some control electronics. The
logical implementation of the control
electronics is based on a microcontroller. The final block is the power supply, either battery-powered or mainspowered (or both).
The oscillator is a key element of
any signal generator. An analog-based
wide-range oscillator and modulator
involving sets of inductors and a tuning capacitor is impractical and cannot provide the desired functions and
performance required at a modest cost.
Table 1: I looked at a range of currently available commercial equipment, both
The cheapest digital options include
new and used. However, for anything that had better-than-mediocre performance,
that third column definitely caused me some heartache! I estimate the instrument the powerful Silicon Labs Si5351A
described here could be built for not much more than $75.00, plus case.
device or widely available direct digital synthesis (DDS) modules based
Design goals
Lower RF output levels are also use- on chips such as the Analog DevicThis design represents the outcome ful, eg, for receiver sensitivity tests. es AD985x (see our article on the
of an extended period of development The minimal useful level is mostly AD9850 in the September 2017 issue;
and testing over the last few years.
determined by the limitations of low- siliconchip.com.au/Article/10805).
This signal generator provides ba- cost shielding and simple hobbyist
Other digital options include PLL
sic CW (unmodulated) signals, plus construction methods used.
chips such as the Maxim MAX2870.
AM and FM modulation functions,
If an enclosure was carefully milled While it is possible to generate sineprimarily across the high frequency from a 25mm thick metal billet with waves from both the Si5351A and the
range from 100kHz to 30MHz, with shielding slots for flexible conduc- MAX2870, the additional circuitry
a continuously variable output level tive inserts, the lower limit could be required to obtain low harmonic consuitable for most requirements.
extended significantly, but relatively tent output signals coupled with the
This frequency range includes most few hobbyists could achieve this. So challenges of adding modulation make
common IFs (intermediate frequen- I’ve used simple shielding and a ba- them less attractive.
cies) such as 455kHz, 465kHz, 470kHz,
AD9850 DDS modules (as shown in
sic DIY folded aluminium sheet met10.7MHz and 21.4MHz.
al box. This is reflected in the modest the photos overleaf) are available from
Coverage extends to 50MHz, with lower output specification limit of
sources like ebay and AliExpress at
another range covering 70-120MHz. around -90dBm.
reasonable prices.
Coverage actually extends up to
The instrument’s display requireAchieving that performance, how150MHz with some limitations, to
ever, still requires moderately careful ments are modest, so I decided to use a
permit limited use in the popular 2m enclosure construction.
common 16x2 character alphanumeric
amateur radio band as well as parts
By using commonly available parts LCD. These are easy to read and drive
of the widely used international 138- and low-cost modules, I have been able from a micro.
174MHz land mobile band.
A rough outline of the design began
to keep the overall cost low. I estimate
Key design objectives included low the cost to build this signal generator to take shape and, adding up procescost, ease of obtaining parts and ease currently at around $75.
sor pins required, the very common
of construction.
Special parts such as chip-based attenuators, for example, were avoided
in favour of the low-cost combination
of slide switches and standard resistors.
The generator’s RF output is designed for applications requiring relatively high RF levels.
These include testing double-balanced diode mixers in high-performance receivers and for testing multi-stage passive filters, where stopband attenuation measurements reFig.1: the basic arrangement of a modulated signal generator with adjustable
quire relatively high signal generaoutput level. Our design follows this configuration.
tor outputs.
28
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.2: a typical
example of
how you can
apply amplitude
modulation to
the output of
an AD9850based signal
generator module
using discrete
components. In the
end it was decided
to abandon this
idea in favour
of a PWM-based
microcontroller
approach.
ATmega328P 8-bit microcontroller
appeared suitable. While an Arduino
was briefly considered, I would need to
use practically every pin on the device,
and I wanted to keep the instrument
compact, so I decided to use a standalone ATmega328 processor.
The RF buffer amplifier requires
only modest gain. It must handle the
somewhat unusual 200output impedance of the AD9850 module and
the following 50attenuator stages
and 50output. Another consideration is that the buffer should not be
overloaded by the sometimes high
output swing of the AD9850. Numerous designs published on the internet
suffer from this problem.
The buffer should also maintain its
gain across the design frequency range.
And the buffer should be able to work
into a reasonable range of loads and
survive typical bench treatment.
I’ve used MMIC amplifiers such as
the ERA-series devices from MiniCircuits to buffer AD9850, AD9851
and AD9854 DDS chips in the past.
These drive 50loads with good performance.
However, in testing this signal generator with a wide variety of filters,
amplifiers, receivers, transmitters and
other loads, several MMICs suffered
early deaths. These were probably due
to the very low impedances presented
by some of the test filters.
The search for a more suitable buffer
stage was ultimately concluded with
the inclusion of a traditional singlestage buffer amplifier using a robust
2N4427 VHF transistor. It is widely
available at low cost, as is its nearequivalent, the 2N3866. It proved more
than adequately robust over many
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months of use. The TO-39 case of the
transistor becomes warm during use,
but a heatsink is not required.
The design of the attenuator stage
also posed some challenges. Recently, PE4302 30dB step attenuator chips
have become popular. While only relatively new devices, these have recently
been listed by the manufacturer as obsolete. The replacement devices, while
having improved performance, also
come at a substantially increased price.
Relay-controlled fixed attenuators
can be used, but with an eye on cost
and simplicity, I decided to use inexpensive slide switches instead. Experience has shown these to perform adequately for this type of application.
However, these limit the attenuator
steps to specific attenuation values.
Ideally, the generator should have a
fully variable output level.
So I decided to build and test a Serebriakova attenuator as an alternative
to a more costly PIN diode-based design. This configuration is shown in
the lower right-hand corner of Fig.4,
the circuit diagram.
It’s a simple passive resistor net-
What is Frequency
Modulation (FM)?
With frequency modulation, the audible tone of (say) 1kHz results from the
carrier frequency of the signal generator
being instantaneously shifted (or “deviated”) from its nominal frequency in
proportion to the amplitude of the modulating tone.
As the amplitude of the tone increases,
at that 1kHz rate, the carrier frequency of
the generator proportionally increases.
Similarly, as the 1kHz tone’s amplitude
decreases, the carrier frequency is proportionally decreased. It is proportional
because the extent of the carrier frequency shift, or deviation, depends on the signal bandwidth required.
For broadcast radio FM, the peak deviation is ±75kHz. The resulting signal
fills the standard FM broadcast channel
bandwidth of 200kHz. Traditional VHF
FM two-way radio transceivers used for
amateur radio or commercial/government mobile radio use a much smaller
±5kHz deviation, and these signals occupy 25kHz channels.
More modern so-called “narrow-band”
amateur FM transceivers typically use
±2.5kHz deviation, and these use more
densely-packed channels spaced apart
by 12.5kHz.
work which acts as a variable attenuator, well suited for basic designs like
this. Apparently of Russian origin, the
attenuator network uses a 500linear
potentiometer to give a 20dB variable
attenuation range. It works well into
mid-VHF frequencies.
The input impedance is maintained reasonably close to the desired
50across the adjustment range of
the potentiometer, so the attenuation
is predictable. The output match to
50as the potentiometer is adjusted
Fig.3: the output of a DDS signal generator module contains the wanted
frequency plus a number of alias frequencies. These are normally filtered out
but it is possible to instead filter out the fundamental frequencies and keep one
of the higher alias frequencies to extend the signal generator’s range.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 29
This is the low-cost AD9850-based DDS signal generator used in this design.
Besides the chip it has a reference osciallator (the metal can at left) plus a
number of discrete components including a low-pass filter for the output.
is not perfect, but it’s an acceptable
compromise for this design.
Amplitude modulation with
the AD9850
A key objective of the signal generator was to deliver both amplitude
(AM) and frequency modulation (FM)
as well as providing an unmodulated
RF signal.
Amplitude modulation with the
AD9850 is well documented. Analog
Devices, the chip’s manufacturer, helpfully published an application note
(AN-423) which describes adding a
small signal NMOS FET and a few additional parts to do this. A quick test
confirmed that it works as described.
Most signal generators use a 1kHz
modulation tone, which can be produced in several ways. One approach
is to use the ATmega328 to generate
a 1kHz square wave using one of its
internal timers and then filter this to
give a 1kHz sinewave. But extensive
filtering is required to obtain a suitable tone. That involves quite a few
extra parts.
A second, similar approach is to
use the ATmega328’s counter/timer
in its pulse-width modulated (PWM)
mode. The resulting waveform is
closer to a sinewave but still requires
some filtering to remove the 31kHz
PWM frequency. Usefully, that filter
is far less complex given the much
higher clock frequency compared to
the 1kHz tone.
A third option is to build a discrete
1kHz sinewave oscillator and just use
the ATmega328 to turn it on and off as
required. At first glance, the discrete
oscillator approach is attractively simple and uses relatively few components, so I tested this out, using the
circuit shown in Fig.2.
It works quite well. The 3.3nF capacitor value can be adjusted to give
the required modulation level at the
AD9850’s RF output. This works by
replacing the fixed resistor (“RSET”)
30
Silicon Chip
on pin 12 of the AD9850, typically
3.9k, with the variable resistance of
Q2’s channel. This resistance sets the
AD9850 digital-to-analog converter
(DAC) current and, subsequently, the
AD9850 RF output level.
By varying the gate voltage of the
2N7000 at 1kHz using the voltage from
the collector of audio oscillator Q1,
the AD9850 RF output is amplitude
modulated.
However, this analog tone is not
precisely 1kHz. Its frequency is determined by the passive components
around Q1. To give a more accurate
(and potentially adjustable) modulation frequency, the PWM-based approach was used in the final circuit.
See the section of Fig.4 labelled “OUTPUT LEVEL CONTROL”.
Pin 11 (output PD5) of IC1 produces
the 1kHz sinewave as a 31kHz PWM
square wave, or potentially at other
frequencies by changing the software.
This is filtered and used to control a
current sink made using standard NPN
transistors. An extra 100nF bypass capacitor was added to pin 12 to the final PCB to address AD9850 module
stability.
The 31kHz pulse width modulated
1kHz signal is produced by the ATmega328 from its 8MHz internal RC
oscillator. The variable DC voltage of
0-5V arriving on the base of Q1 is converted to a variable collector current
in Q1 of 0-700µA, the maximum current value being set by its 1kemitter
resistor. This figure was selected to exceed the 625µA maximum current sink
range required by the AD9850.
This approach is not perfect. Using
the RSET pin and the standard unbalanced RF output from the AD9850
module, the typical approach used in
these low-cost modules, the output
modulation produced is asymmetric.
In practice, however, this does not
matter terribly.
This simple circuit delivers cleansounding amplitude modulation with
Australia’s electronics magazine
the AD9850 and uses fewer components than the other options. It also
allows other modulation tones to be
added in future if required. Finally,
this approach also adds another important feature – reasonably accurate
linear control of the AD9850 RF output level.
Note though that this approach requires the removal of that 3.9kresistor
from the module as supplied, and the
addition of a wire to control pin 12
from Q1 to one of its pads. This change
will be described in more detail later.
Frequency modulation (FM)
Again, there are several options to
produce FM with the AD9850. One approach would be to externally modulate the AD9850’s separate 125MHz
reference crystal oscillator. Frequency
and phase modulation could be both
implemented this way. Unfortunately,
the 125MHz reference oscillator in the
low-cost modules is inside a sealed
metal can.
There is no external voltage tuning input which might otherwise be
pressed into use to produce FM. It’s
possible to replace the reference oscillator module with a discrete oscillator
to allow for external modulation, but
that takes some effort.
It is also possible to use the AD9850internal phase modulation register but
resolution is too limited (4 bits).
Another Analog Devices application
note (AN-543) suggests a solution. It
describes a powerful Analog Devices
DSP chip which samples incoming stereo audio at 48ksamples/sec and then
sends a stream of 40-bit frequency-setting words serially at very high speed
to the AD9850.
Each of these 40-bit words programs
the AD9850 to a new instantaneous
frequency, which is necessary to emulate a stereo FM signal (including the
19kHz and 38kHz pilot tones).
With some care and a few lines of
assembly code for speed where necessary, the ATmega328 can modulate
the AD9850’s output frequency in this
manner. Sadly, the resulting modulation sounds pretty average. The problem is the time required by the ATmega328 to send the serial string of
40 bits to the AD9850 each time its
frequency has to be updated for frequency modulation via the typical
3-wire interface.
The poor result is not surprising.
With the conventional serial load
siliconchip.com.au
method and our 8MHz, 8-bit chip, it
is (just!) possible to load four modulation samples per 1kHz cycle into the
AD9850. A four-point sinewave is actually a triangle wave, which is full
of harmonics!
Closer study showed that there is
another way to communicate with
the AD9850 chip. Almost every
AD9850/51 based design uses the
three-wire serial bus to send 40-bit
control words to the AD9850 each time
the frequency needs to be updated.
However, the AD9850 can also be
controlled using a parallel interface.
This requires sending five 8-bit words
in quick succession to the chip, along
with some control signals via two or
three additional pins. The only published example I could find is based
on a PIC processor.
There is a considerable advantage
in this method. Rather than taking
about 250µs for the ATmega328 to load
each 40-bit word serially, the parallel
approach can reduce this to as little
as 2.5µs.
With the parallel loading method, it
is possible to send 20 samples per 1kHz
cycle without any trouble at all, even
with the (relatively) slow 8MHz clock
in the ATmega328. This is much closer
to a proper sinewave. The difference is
clearly audible in an FM receiver. The
parallel method gives a demodulated
signal that sounds very clear and clean,
just like a sinewave should.
So for FM, the 20-point sampled
waveform is created by calculating
the required AD9850 output frequency
every 50µs and sending that data over
the fast parallel interface.
The FM deviation is controlled by
changing the magnitude of the frequency changes which occur 20,000
times per second (20 points x 1kHz).
Selecting narrow band FM (the LCD
shows “FM-NB”) on this generator for
12.5kHz spacing FM two-way radios
produces ±1.5kHz FM; selecting wideband FM, for older 25kHz channel
spaced two-way radios, gives ±3kHz
FM (“FM-WB”), while selecting broadcast FM produces ±50kHz FM signals
(“FM-BC”).
Frequency scanning
A further feature of this signal generator was added for testing and aligning filters. For example, while designing this Signal Generator, I was also
building a 9-band HF transceiver. Its
receiver front end features nine sets of
siliconchip.com.au
coupled tuned circuits, each requiring
careful alignment, with three or four
adjustments per set.
In the scanning mode, the generator
briefly produces a signal on a series
of discrete frequency steps across a
defined range. For the transceiver example, the signal generator could be
programmed to produce signals across
each of the nine bands used for the
bandpass filters being tested.
By monitoring the amplitude of the
resulting output from each filter on an
oscilloscope, it is possible to quickly
align each filter while seeing the impact of every change. This forms, in effect, a ‘poor man’s spectrum analyser’.
This saves considerable time and effort over manual alignment methods.
The start and stop frequencies can
be set anywhere across the range of
the signal generator. Since filters are
generally fairly broad, a 1kHz step size
for setting the start and stop frequency
is acceptable.
I decided to add a SCAN pushbutton to the design, to enable this mode.
As I had run out of pins on the ATmega328, I used two diodes (D1 & D2) so
that pressing this button is effectively
equivalent to pressing the two existing
buttons (MODE and STEP) simultaneously. The micro can detect this as a
press of the SCAN button – see Fig.4.
Expanded frequency coverage
Typical AD9850 modules are fitted
with a 125MHz reference oscillator.
DDS oscillators deliver clean sine outputs up to about 30% of the reference
frequency; in this case, say 40MHz. Increasing but acceptable levels of aliasing products are present in the output
spectrum up to 45% of the reference
frequency, say 50MHz.
Beyond this, as the output frequency
approaches the Fourier limit of about
60MHz, spurious products render the
output unusable.
The cheap modules are usually supplied with an onboard elliptical lowpass filter with a cutoff frequency of
70MHz to maximise the output frequency range. In fact, these modules
have three outputs. The first is the filtered output as described. It appears on
my module on the pin labelled “SINB”.
An adjacent pin, “SINA”, might appear to be similar. However, this signal
comes directly from the AD9850 DAC.
It is a 180° phase-shifted (inverted) version of the signal at SINB but without
any additional low-pass filtering.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The third available output comes
from an internal comparator in the
AD9850. It produces a square wave
version of the output. This is output
level dependent, the duty cycle being
set by adjusting a miniature trimpot on
the module. If it is adjusted for a good
50% duty cycle output at a lower frequency setting, it tends to be less accurate at higher frequencies.
There is little difficulty in obtaining reasonably clean filtered signal
generator outputs up to 50MHz from
the filtered (SINB) pin. Some testing
showed that output was acceptable
down to 100kHz. That’s useful for covering receiver intermediate frequencies (IF) and IF filters between 455kHz
and 470kHz, for example.
Looking more closely at the module,
the second SINA output looked potentially useful too. Because this output
is not filtered, the full set of DDS alias
frequencies are available here.
In one example, illustrated in Fig.3,
the “wanted” output (labelled Fout) is
at 30MHz. As the user increases this
frequency, tuning towards 35MHz for
example, this output frequency increases, shown by the blue arrow.
At the same time, the AD9850 (like
June 2019 31
Fig.4: along with the 16x2 LCD module, the ATmega328P microcontroller (IC1) drives the AD9850 signal generator
module using an 8-bit parallel bus plus three control lines. This allows it to modulate the output frequency at 20kHz
which results in clean 1kHz frequency modulation. Amplitude modulation is applied using PWM from pin 11 of
IC1, which is filtered and then controls a current sink comprising transistors Q1 and Q2. The resulting current flow
controls the signal generator output level. The output signal is buffered by transistor Q3 and then passes four switched
20dB attenuators and then a 0-20dB variable attenuator (VR2) which gives a 100dB overall output range. Q4 and Q5
form a “soft power” switch for the circuit, which is controlled by pushbutton switch S3.
all DDS chips) also produces “alias”
frequencies. These are shown in orange. The nearest is at 95MHz, ie, the
clock frequency of the DDS (125MHz)
minus 30MHz. It decreases in frequency as the user tunes from 30 to 35MHz,
ending up at 90MHz (ie, 125-35MHz).
There are many other alias frequencies which are produced simultaneously, the next nearest being
at 155MHz (the clock frequency of
125MHz plus 30MHz), with others at
32
Silicon Chip
220MHz, 280MHz and so on, theoretically continuing forever. The direction
these alias outputs tune can be seen by
the direction of the arrows, some rising while others reduce in frequency
as the primary frequency is increased.
The amplitude of all of these signals
follows a strict mathematical relationship, called the “sine x upon x” curve.
That’s shown in green on the figure.
There’s about a 10dB level difference
between the 30MHz output and the
Australia’s electronics magazine
95MHz alias signal, for example.
That’s the reason for the substantial
onboard filter on the AD9850 module.
It’s a low-pass filter designed to cut
off at 70MHz, so the majority of these
aliased products do not appear at the
SINB output. However, since there is
no similar low pass filter on the SINA
output, these alias signals are all usefully present, in full, at this pin.
As the user continues to tune the
AD9850’s output upwards in frequensiliconchip.com.au
cy, the ‘wanted’ and first ‘alias’ output
ultimately coincide and pass each other at Fout=62.5MHz.
A few tests using this SINA pin
suggested that the usually unwanted
alias frequencies above 65MHz could
be obtained from the module using an
external high-pass filter (HPF). That
would allow the signal generator to
provide useful outputs from, say,
about 70MHz up to about 120MHz.
With additional filtering, still higher
siliconchip.com.au
aliasing products could be filtered out
and amplified.
This permits the generator to produce signals across the 2m amateur
band or across part of the 138-174MHz
land mobile bands. As it turns out, useful outputs across these bands could be
obtained just from using a single HPF,
and the maximum tuning frequency
for the signal generator was therefore
set at 150MHz. Those wanting other
bands or fewer aliasing outputs can
Australia’s electronics magazine
modify the HPF to suit individual requirements.
Detailed circuit description
The final circuit arrangement is
shown in Fig.4.
While it may appear complex at first
glance, this design uses remarkably few
components given the range of modulation modes and coverage it provides.
Some of the complexity is hidden in
the software for IC1.
June 2019 33
NAVIGATING THE MENUS
Starting frequency and mode
Press “MODE” to select next mode (AM)
Next press selects narrowband FM
Twice more selects broadband FM
(wideband FM not shown)
Once more selects SCAN mode
MODE button
Pressing SCAN selects ‘start’ frequency
(Adjust with “tune/step”)
Pressing SCAN again selects End;
then Steps
To enable the frequency modulation
described above, the AD9850’s 8-bit
data port (pins D0-D7) is connected
to micro IC1’s PORTB digital outputs
(PB0-PB7). The three 10kseries resistors have been added so that IC1 can
be reprogrammed in-circuit (via ICSP
header CON3) while IC1 is still connected to MOD1.
MOD1 is also connected to 5V power (VCC) and GND, plus the slave select (SS) and reset (RST) pins, which
go to digital I/Os PC4 and PD4 on IC1
respectively.
Its two output signals are fed to the
HPF and switch S4, while the square
wave output goes to CON4, although
the signal which appears there is of
limited use, as its duty cycle varies
with frequency.
With switch S4 in the position
shown, the lower frequency (100kHz50MHz) signals pass through S4a, the
100nF coupling capacitor and S4b directly on to the buffer amplifier (the
base of transistor Q3).
For higher frequency signals, S4
is moved to the alternative position
where the buffer amplifier is fed from
the output of the HPF, which receives
its input from the unfiltered DDS output pin.
The HPF is a standard seven-pole
Chebyshev filter. Elliptical filters provide a faster pass-to-stop band cut-off,
but the resulting spurious and harmonic rejection is less effective compared
with the Chebyshev type.
The filter was optimised to suit
standard leaded components and
home-made inductors.
For best performance, the coupling
between the coils must be minimised.
The PCB layout provides for small tin
plate shields to be fitted between filter
stages, a simple and effective solution.
The alternative HPF shown could
potentially shift the 70-150MHz upper
output range to 125-187.5MHz with
appropriate software changes.
RF buffer amplifier
Pressing SCAN again starts Scanning
SCAN button
MODE button
34
34 S
Silicon Chip
As noted earlier, the buffer amplifier is a robust discrete design, based
on NPN transistor Q3. This is a wellknown single transistor broadband arrangement providing about 15dB gain
along with good dynamic range. Gain
is necessary to provide the required
maximum output level for the signal generator and to compensate for
the insertion loss of the Serebriakova
attenuator.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Alternative discrete buffers seen in
other AD9850/51 based designs lack
sufficient gain across the output range
and/or frequently overload with the
typically higher module output levels
present below 10MHz.
By contrast, this buffer amplifier’s
gain is relatively flat and only reduces
above 50MHz. This is acceptable given
the application and circuit simplicity.
If you find the 2N4427 transistor
difficult to source, you may be able to
find a 2N3866 instead, although the
gain may reduce by several decibels.
The output of the amplifier is taken
from the centre tap of autotransformer
T1 and coupled to the output attenuator by a 100nF capacitor.
The attenuator consists of four identical 0/20dB switched attenuators, followed by the aforementioned 0-20dB
Serebriakova attenuator, giving an
overall range of 0-100dB. This allows
you to adjust the output from about
-93dBm to +7dBm.
As mentioned earlier, this range is
limited by shielding effectiveness and
RF signal leakage across the attenuator sections.
Better shielding between sections
is likely to allow another 20dB fixed
attenuator to be added, significantly
improving its utility for small signal
work. Further improvements would
likely require considerable additional
design efforts around the power supply and control sections.
User interface
IC1 updates the 16x2 LCD using a
typical 4-bit interface. The lower four
bits of PORTC on IC1 (pins 23-26) drive
the four upper LCD data pins, while
pins 12 and 13 (digital outputs PD6
& PD7) drive the RS and EN control
lines of the LCD.
The backlight brightness is fixed using a 1kresistor, with the backlight
powered whenever the device is on,
and trimpot VR1 provides contrast
adjustment.
The Grey code pulses from the rotary encoder are sensed using IC1’s
PD2 and PD3 digital inputs (pins 4
& 5), while presses of the encoder’s
integral pushbutton and the SCAN
and MODE pushbuttons (S1 & S2) are
sensed using digital inputs PD0 and
PD1 (pins 2 and 3).
These have internal pull-ups enabled so that they are held high when
no buttons are being pressed.
As mentioned earlier, diodes D1 and
siliconchip.com.au
To whet you
appetites for part
2, the construction
details (scheduled
for our July
issue) here is the
author’s completed
prototype PCB. As
you can see, despite
its complexity and
performance, there
really isn’t all that
much to building it!
D2 have been added to allow presses
of three buttons to be sensed using the
two available pins.
Jumper JP1 and ICSP header CON3
have been provided to allow IC1 to be
re-programmed in situ. Removing JP1
prevents the programmer from trying
to power the RF circuitry. CON3 has
the standard Atmel 6-pin programmer pinout.
Power switching
The external power supply, nominally 12V DC, directly powers the
output buffer. The buffer can operate
down to 9V although harmonic distortion at full output increases by about
6dB at 9V compared to 12V.
The 12V supply is also regulated
down to 5V by REG1 for the AD9850
module and the ATmega328 processor. Since the AD9850 module is current-hungry, REG1 requires a heatsink.
Dissipation losses would be reduced
by using a switchmode regulator but
this can introduce switching noise inside the signal generator, and could
potentially modulate the output buffer
output signal.
As it turns out, the metal signal generator case forms an effective heatsink
for REG1, and this avoids the need for
additional hardware.
The signal generator will continue
to operate with a supply voltage down
to 6V; however, its performance degrades significantly below 9V. By 6V,
siliconchip.com.au
the maximum output falls by 10dB
and harmonics are only suppressed
by 10dB due to the reduced dynamic
range in the buffer stage.
So, operation at 6V is possible but
not recommended.
A ‘soft switch’ circuit has been added to allow the use of a momentary
pushbutton (S3) as a power switch.
The circuitry to provide this function is shown at the upper right of
Fig.4. It was initially described by Zetex in their February 1996 Design Note
27, for use as a relay driver.
However, several problems were encountered with that design, including
References
1. Gary McClellan, Programma-II synthesised signal generator, RadioElectronics magazine, Aug & Sept
1981 (300kHz to 30MHz CW/AM signal generator, 10kHz tuning steps, 10300mV output)
2. G. Baars, PE1GIC, DDS RF Signal
Generator, Elektor, October 2003
(50Hz to 70MHz, CW/AM/FM, 1Hz to
1MHz tuning steps, 0 to -127dBm out)
3. Ian Pogson, Solid state modulated RF
test oscillator, Electronics Australia,
May 1979 (455kHz to 30MHz in four
ranges, approximately 100mV output)
4. http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/dds/
theory.html
5. www.picmicrolab.com/ad9850pic16f-interface-parallel-data-load/
Australia’s electronics magazine
some curious component choices and
overheating. A minor redesign and the
use of a higher-gain switching transistor solved them all.
When the supply is initially connected, the voltage appears on the
emitter of Q4 and the 1µF capacitor
charges via the three series resistors
(2.7k, 1k and 270k). However,
Q4 cannot turn on until momentary
switch S3 is pressed and no current
is drawn from the supply.
When S3 is pressed, current is supplied to the base of Q5, which switches
it on, and it in turn sinks current from
the base of PNP transistor Q4, switching it on also and bringing up its collector voltage.
Current can then flow from Q4’s
collector to Q5’s base via the two 1k
series resistors, so Q5 remains on and
so does Q4.
However, the 1µF capacitor discharges because Q5’s collector is
now being pulled low, to 0V. So if S3
is pressed again, Q5’s base goes low,
switching it off, and in turn switching
off Q4, so the circuit is back in the initial off-state.
Part Two, next month
Next month’s article will have the
parts list, details of PCB assembly,
case construction, programming IC1
and how to use the RF Signal Generator. We’ll also have performance data,
SC
including spectrum plots.
June 2019 35
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Using
e-Paper
Displays
by Tim Blythman
Electronic paper or e-Paper displays (also known as E-Ink) are used
in devices like e-Book readers and even to show product prices on the
shelves in some shops. These displays are now becoming available as
electronic modules, making them usable by hobbyists. In this article, we
explain what they do, how to use them and where to get them.
E
-Paper displays have very high
contrast and good daylight readability with a wide viewing angle, and usually, require no power to
maintain the display once set.
So they are well-suited to applications where display updates are infrequent.
While some e-Paper displays can
show colours, most are black and
white only, although this limitation
also results in good contrast and keeps
the control scheme simple.
We bought an e-Paper display, tested
it out and wrote code to drive it from
both an Arduino and Micromite.
Read on to see if an e-Paper display
is something you would like to add to
your next project!
How it works
While there are variations to the
technology, many displays are based
on electrostatically charged coloured
particles.
Sometimes these are particles with
one black side and one white side; in
other cases, they are light particles
suspended in a dark liquid.
An applied electric field rotates or
moves the particles so that the appar40
Silicon Chip
ent colour changes. Once the display
has been updated, the displayed image will remain indefinitely (or at least
until the display is powered up again
and commanded to change) – see Fig.1.
The ability to hold the last state with
no power consumption makes e-Paper
displays ideal for e-Book readers or
price displays. The high contrast ratio means that no backlighting is required, and practically zero power is
consumed overall.
Thus e-Book readers can run for up
to a month between charges, and shelf
price displays can operate from a tiny
button cell.
Limitations
Of course, if e-Paper displays had no
downsides, we’d be seeing them everywhere. They cost more than monochrome LCD with a similar resolution
and availability (at least to individuals) is still limited.
Also, as they are optimised for infrequent updates, they don’t cope well
with fast updates. The unit we tested
took around 300ms for a so-called
‘partial’ refresh and over a second for
a full refresh. So they’re definitely not
suitable for video playback.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The difference between a partial and
full refresh does not relate to whether
some or all of the screen is refreshed,
but rather how effectively the refresh
occurs. A partial refresh is quicker, but
may not entirely flip all of the pixels,
resulting in ‘ghosting’ from the previous image.
A full refresh takes longer but is
more thorough. If you have ever seen
an e-Book reader updating and noticed
that the display flashes from all black
to all white before settling on a final
image, that is a full refresh and it ensures that there are no remnants of the
previous display left behind.
Colour e-Paper displays exist but are
quite expensive. Interestingly, they use
a subtractive colour system based on
cyan, magenta and yellow (like printed books and magazines) rather than
the additive system used by TVs and
computer monitors, which mix red,
green and blue light.
Many e-Paper controller ICs use
high voltages to drive the display.
Since electric field strength is proportional to voltage, it makes sense that
a display driven with higher voltages
will provide more effective updates.
We measured around 20V on our
siliconchip.com.au
This shows the e-Paper display hooked up to a Micromite BackPack
(though it could just as easily be an Arduino, Raspberry Pi or anything
else that supports the SPI interface.) This is just one of the demonstration
programs that we’ve written to demonstrate the text and graphics capabilities
of the e-Paper. (No, we haven’t gone crazy and started selling mushrooms on
special at $12/kg – we’re not sure how many we’d sell at that price anyway . . .)
test module while the display was less light would be required thanks to
We sourced our unit from an online
active. The data sheet includes a ref- the high contrast).
store at siliconchip.com.au/link/aapo,
erence design which specifies a 25Vbut several similar 200x200 pixel disrated capacitor and an inductor-based Our e-Paper module
plays are available from other sources,
boost circuit.
The module we tested is one of the and appear to use the same controller
We found that the 3.3V rail on the smaller types available, with a 1.54in and command set.
Micromite sagged quite badly (down diagonal display having a square,
The 8-way electrical header mento 2.7V) while the display was updat- 200x200 pixel active area. It has an tioned above consists of a set of pads
ing, and the measured current draw 8-way header for control. The over- spaced apart by 0.1in (2.54mm), to
was over 300mA.
all module measures 34x50mm and which we soldered a header socket, so
Clearly, the low power requirement comes with a tapped spacer in each we could use jumper wires for protois subject to the proviso that there corner for mounting.
typing. But you could also plug it into
may be brief bursts of high cura breadboard or into a socket on
rent while the display is being
stripboard or an etched PCB.
updated.
The eight pins are for 3.3V
We think a charge-pump boost
power and ground, plus the SPI
circuit may be better suited to
control bus (MOSI, SCK and CS)
this application, as the current
and a data/command (DC) conneeded to flip the pixels should
trol line, as well as a RESET inbe quite small.
put and BUSY pin. While most
Display use with no backlightof these are found on other SPIing assumes that there is adebased display modules (eg, LCDs),
quate ambient light for viewing
the BUSY pin is not something
the display.
we’ve seen before.
For an e-Paper display to be
Fig.2 shows the reference
useful in low light conditions, a
schematic from the display data
separate source of illumination
sheet (siliconchip.com.au/link/
would be required, potentially
aapp). The controller IC is an
This close-up of the display shows that the pixels
negating the low power benefit have quite blurry edges. There are also some small
IL3820, and we found its data
(although it still may be more ef- black dots visible on the white region. These are
sheet, too. See siliconchip.com.
ficient than a backlit display, as almost impossible to see at normal reading distances. au/link/aapq
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 41
1 pixel
Transparent Electrode Layer
Liquid Polymer Layer
Containing E-ink Capsules
Lower Electrode Layer
Appearance of pixels (seen from above
through transparent electrode layer).
Fig.1: a typical e-Paper display consists of contrasting coloured capsules
suspended between the electrodes. An applied electric field causes particles to
move or rotate and the displayed colour to change.
This controller supports displays up
to 320x240 pixels, as well as multiple
serial and parallel data formats. Hence
the I/O pins take on different roles depending on the data format.
On our module, the BS1 line of this
IC is broken out to a small slide switch
which can be used to toggle between
9-bit and 8-bit SPI mode. We have used
8-bit mode for our examples, which
corresponds to the slide switch being
set to the ‘0’ position.
The display data sheet notes that the
controller should not be interrupted
while the display is being updated.
Since this can take over a second, the
BUSY pin provides a simple means to
monitor when the controller is ready.
The microcontroller can resume other
tasks and check the BUSY pin to determine when the display controller is
ready for another command.
Getting it going
We used an ESP8266-based, Arduino-compatible D1 Mini board for further testing. This is a WiFi-capable
board which can be programmed using the Arduino IDE. We’re using this
because it has 3.3V I/O pins, which
suits the I/O and power requirements
of the e-Paper module.
It would be tricky to drive it using
an Arduino with 5V I/Os like an Uno.
The supplier of the module provided a link to an open-source library for
working with the displays. We have included this in our software download
bundle. The library supports ESP8266
boards.
As is often the case, using the library
was not straightforward. The library
supports many different displays, but
none of these were an exact match for
the display we were using.
The library provides example code
for around a dozen displays, including two with the same 200x200 pixel
42
Silicon Chip
resolution as ours. Trying these, we
were able to see some activity on the
display, but it appeared to be a corrupted or distorted image.
Looking further into the library,
we found that these two displays do
not use the IL3820 controller IC. We
found another example sketch that
did use the IL3820, but it did was
intended for a lower-resolution display than ours. It worked, but was
not able to refresh the entire screen.
Given these two examples, we
were confident we could write our
own interface code from scratch and
tried to do so. As well as using this
library as a reference, we also had
the aforementioned data sheet.
Fig.2: this reference schematic for the
IL3820 e-Paper controller IC indicates that
the controller doesn’t need much external
circuitry other than the boost circuit to
generate a higher voltage for refreshing the
display, and a handful of bypass capacitors.
Display quirks
The ‘quirks’ we found are due to the
nature of e-Paper displays. These are
quite different from liquid crystal displays (LCDs). Like LCDs, the e-Paper
displays need to be issued a series of
commands at power-up before they are
ready to show text or images.
Firstly, the display controller needs
to be told how large the display is.
While it may seem like a small detail, it’s not something we’ve had to
with other display controllers. As we
mentioned, the IL3820 controller can
work with displays up to 320x240 pixels, while our display is only 200x200
pixels.
We also found reference to a waveform lookup table (LUT) which needed to be loaded into the display. The
library code examples actually had
two LUT arrays, each 30 bytes long,
labelled “full refresh” and “partial
refresh”.
The LUT waveform controls the display update sequence, so which array
you use determines whether you get a
full or partial display update.
There is a reference in the IL3820
Australia’s electronics magazine
datasheet as to what voltages these
values correspond to, but the values
from the library worked well enough
that we did not try to change them.
The boost circuit shown in Fig.2
also needs to be activated by sending
a command to the controller.
Given the high current consumption that we saw while the boost circuit was running, we tried turning
this on immediately before sending
the refresh command, and found that
this worked well.
Our example code does this too.
Like many other displays, drawing
is done by selecting an area of pixels
within the display and then streaming
bitmap data into that area.
As we’ve previously alluded,
though, merely sending the new pixel
data does not cause the display to update.
There is another short sequence of
commands which updates the actual
display based on the data which is in
its memory buffer. It is this sequence
which triggers the actual display refresh.
To shut down the boost circuit and
save power, after the refresh sequence
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: here’s how to connect an e-Paper
display to a Micromite. Only eight
connections are required. Make sure you
are not using the SPI bus for anything
else, as this might conflict with the BASIC
program.
images to C code for the Arduino example. It is at: www.digole.com/tools/
PicturetoC_Hex_converter.php
For the Micromite example, we had
to convert this data to a 32-bit format
to simplify the code, which was an
extra step, as well as converting it to
a format suitable for MMBasic.
The final page display is similar in
that it also shows an electronic price
ticket, although this example uses
the two RAM buffers to flash a banner across the image. As noted above,
once the two RAM buffers have been
filled, the refresh sequence is all that
is needed to alternate between them.
Between each example page, the
display is shut down (by pulling the
reset pin low), then the code waits
for a fixed period before repeating the
initialisation code, to restart the display before the next update.
Connecting it up
is complete, we shut down the controller by pulling the reset pin low.
We found one more thing that was
not obvious from reading the data
sheet. There are two RAM buffers on
the controller, and it alternates between them each time the display is
refreshed.
Thus, it is quite easy to alternate
between two images by doing nothing more than sending repeated refresh sequences.
Our code
We’re providing two code examples, one for Arduino and one for Micromite. They both drive the display
in the same manner.
When you run this code, the display first shows what appears to be
various shades of grey, although the
mid-shades are actually alternating
patterns of light and dark pixels. The
display has a nominal resolution of
184 DPI, which is around 7 pixels per
millimetre, so dithering works quite
well to produce intermediate tones.
You have to be very close to the display to see the pixel patterns.
After a short pause, it shows the second display page, which is a comparison between two fonts and also shows
the difference between white-on-black
and black-on-white text.
We think that the black-on-white
text is easier to read, perhaps because
siliconchip.com.au
of its similarity to black ink printed
on white paper which we are so familiar with.
The next page is full of text in a tiny
font. Each character is around 1.5mm
high, much smaller than the text you
might find in a book or newspaper. The
text is quite legible, although you may
need to squint to read it.
The fourth page has larger text and
is quite easy to read. You will have
to look closely to see the individual
pixels.
The next page is designed to look
like what might be displayed on an
electronic price ticket. There are different sizes of text and a bitmap image
too. We used an online tool to convert
To try out our example code, you
will need a display and also a microcontroller module to connect it to.
We provided a link (above) to the
online store where we bought ours.
We have not tried any others, but if
you find another 200x200 pixel ePaper display which uses the IL3820
controller and has an eight-way connector, then there’s a good chance that
our code will work with it.
We have used the hardware SPI
ports to drive the displays in both the
Micromite and Arduino examples.
These, and the other necessary connections, are noted near the top of
the sample code. You can also refer
to Figs.3 & 4 and the table of connections (Table 1) to wire up the display
to your microcontroller.
The module will only work at 3.3V,
Fig.4: this shows how to connect an e-Paper
display to the D1 Mini, a small Arduinocompatible board. As with the Micromite,
we are using the hardware SPI bus of the
ESP8266 microcontroller to drive the display.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 43
so if using an Arduino board, make
sure it’s a type with 3.3V I/Os.
Loading the examples
Once you have made the necessary
connections, you can try out our code.
Our example code does not need any
external libraries to work (although the
Arduino example has some included
files in the sketch folder for fonts and
images).
Open the code and upload it to your
microcontroller board. You should see
the display cycle through the different
test screens described earlier.
Writing your own code
To write your own code, have a look
at our examples and follow the sequence between two locations where
the reset pin is pulled low.
Note that the module draws a reasonably high current while the boost
circuit is running, which is switched
on by the EPAPERINIT/epaperInit()
function and then off when the reset
pin is pulled low.
So we recommend that you run this
complete sequence without interruption, minimising the time the boost
circuit is active.
44
Silicon Chip
e-Paper
display
Micromite
BackPack V2
Arduino
D1 Mini
3V3
GND
SDI
SCK
CS
D/C
RES
BUSY
3V3
GND
3
25
5
4
9
10
3V3
G
D7
D5
D8
D3
D4
D2
Table 1: e-Paper display connections
required by example code
The display controller receives rows
of eight pixels at a time, so there are
only two orientations that can be used
(normal and rotated 180°), although
this should not cause any problems
due to the square shape of the display – there is no ‘landscape’ or ‘portrait’ mode!
To see the effects of a full refresh versus a partial refresh, replace all of the
EPAPERSETFULLREFRESH/
epaperSetFullRefresh()
commands with
EPAPERSETPARTIALREFRESH/
epaperSetPartialRefresh()
commands.
Australia’s electronics magazine
What to do with an e-Paper
display
We were impressed with how easy
it was to get this display up and running, and we hope to find some good
ideas as to how this type of display can
be used in a practical project.
It is well-suited to the electronic Tide Chart we presented last July
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11142)
as this only requires very infrequent
display updates.
The e-Paper display would also be
good for a weather display or even a
web-connected public transport timetable, for similar reasons.
They would work well as programmable name badges, perhaps not even
needing a power source while they are
being worn.
We’re dubious about using them in
battery-powered applications as they
seem to have very high peak current
draw, despite being able to operate
with practically zero power draw the
rest of the time.
However, once the display is on
the e-Paper it stays there until it is rewritten, so you don’t have to worry
about continually supplying power
SC
to the module.
siliconchip.com.au
Updating your car entertainment system? You will probably need this
Steering Wheel
audio BUTTON
TO INFRARED
Adaptor
by John Clarke
If you upgrade the radio or ‘infotainment’ head unit
in a car with push-button steering wheel controls, those
controls may stop working. That’s because many aftermarket head
units do not support steering wheel controls, the implementation of which often
varies between manufacturers and even between models. This adaptor lets you use
most of those very handy controls with a wide range of aftermarket head units.
O
nce upon a time (would you
believe way back in 1930?) car
manufacturers started fitting
car radios. Nothing fancy, mind you
– just a basic AM receiver.
Over the years, buyers demanded
more: push-button tuning, FM tuners, 8-track players, cassette players,
CD/DVD players and so on. In more
recent times, we’ve seen that expand
to include auxiliary inputs, USB and
SD-card readers, Bluetooth and even
inbuilt navigation systems.
To control all this technology, “head
units” were created – essentially a dedicated computer in its own right – with
not just the source but such things as
volume, radio station, track selection
and more selected via push- buttons
and, becoming more popular, an infrared remote control.
And then someone got the bright
siliconchip.com.au
idea to incorporate those push-buttons into the steering wheel – and the
Steering Wheel Controller (SWC) was
born, offering remote control without
taking your eyes off the road for very
long (if at all).
Some head units incorporate a remote control input wire at the rear of
the unit and are operated via a voltage
or digital signal.
Fortunately, with our adaptor it
doesn’t matter which system the head
unit supports (if any) – just so long as
it also offers infrared remote control.
Almost all modern head units do.
These handheld remotes are small
and fiddly to use, and we don’t recommend that they’re used by the driver
because they are too distracting. That’s
if the driver can find it in the first place:
they have the annoying habit of falling
down between the seats!
Australia’s electronics magazine
Our SWC Adaptor can operate the
head unit using infrared control and
it is, in turn, controlled by the steering wheel buttons. So you don’t even
need to open up your head unit to use
it. You can feed the IR control signals
in through the faceplate.
Note that some SWCs are digital;
they may be connected via a Controller Area Network (CAN) bus or a proprietary system. These are not suitable for use with this adaptor. It works
with controls where each switch connects a different resistance between a
particular wire and chassis (0V) when
pressed.
Before embarking on this project, it
would be wise to check that your steering wheel controls are suitable for use
with the SWC Adaptor. See the panel
entitled “Are your steering wheel controls suitable?”
June 2019 45
Features
• Compact unit, can be hidden
away under or behind the dash
or even inside the head unit
• Works with up to 10 resistancebased steering wheel buttons
• Controls head unit via infrared
signals (requires remote
control capability)
• Works with most head units
(using NEC, Sony or RC5
infrared codes)
• Infrared receiver included for
programming the function of
each button
• Easy set-up by learning remote
control codes for each steering
wheel button
• Optional unmodulated infrared
output for direct wire connection
We housed the
adaptor in one of Jaycar’s
flanged UB5 Jiffy boxes
(Cat HB6016) because it makes
mounting that much easier.
• Two non-repeat buttons for
special functions (see text)
The only other requirement is that
head unit uses one of these three infrared remote control protocols: NEC,
Sony or Philips RC5. Virtually all head
units with remote control use one of
those three.
By far the most common is the NEC
format. This is used by most head units
manufactured in Asia including Pioneer, Akai, Hitachi, Kenwood, Teac,
and Yamaha plus Germany-based
Blaupunkt.
The Sony protocol is the next most
common. The RC5 format is used by
Philips and some other European
brands, although we have seen some
Philips products which use the Sony
format
Presentation
The SWC Adaptor comprises a small
PCB which can fit into a small Jiffy box.
It’s connected to an ignition-switched
12V supply and the steering wheel
control wire. It provides two outputs:
one to drive an infrared LED to operate the head unit, and a second for an
optional direct wire connection which
can control the head unit directly,
without the need for an infrared trans-
mitter. More on that later.
In use, the SWC Adaptor can be
programmed to map up to ten steering wheel buttons to separate infrared
codes to send to the head unit. Once
programmed, it can be hidden away
(eg, under or behind the dash) and the
steering wheel buttons can be used to
control the head unit while the vehicle ignition is on.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the SWC
Adaptor. It is based around microcontroller IC1, a PIC12F617-I/P. This mon-
Are your steering wheel controls suitable?
Before deciding to build the SWC Adaptor, you will need to check
that the steering wheel control switches are the type that switch in
a resistance rather than digital types that produce a series of digital
(on and off) signals when the switch is pressed. We also assume
that the head unit you intend to use has infrared remote control
and uses one of the standard protocols as mentioned in the article.
To check the SWC switches, your original equipment head unit
will offer clues as to which wire this is. There should be a connection diagram on the head unit. Or you can find the wire using a
vehicle wiring diagram.
With the ignition off and the SWC wire not connected to the head
unit, connect your multimeter leads between that wire and vehicle chassis. Set the multimeter to read resistance. The resistance
may read very high ohms when the SWC switches are all open or
46
Silicon Chip
it may be a few thousand ohms. Pressing each SWC switch in turn
should show a different resistance reading.
For example, our test vehicle showed a resistance of 3.5kwith
all switches open. Then the switch readings were 160, 79,
280, 450, 778and 1.46kfor each of the six switches. So
these readings prove that the steering wheel controls are the analog
type that switch in resistance and so is suitable for use with the
SWC Adaptor.
If you do not get resistance changes, check that you are monitoring the correct wire and that the chassis connection is good. If
the switches still do not show resistance, they might be producing a digital signal when the vehicle ignition is on. The steering
wheel controls on your vehicle are therefore not suitable for use
with the SWC Adaptor.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
INSIDE
STEERING
WHEEL/
COLUMN
Fig.1: IC1 monitors the steering wheel controls via analog input AN3, while also sensing tolerance adjustment trimpot
(VR1) at analog input AN1. The state of switch S1 is monitored at digital input GP5 and the signal from infrared
receiver IRD1is monitored at digital input GP3. To control the vehicle head unit, IC1 produces remote control code
pulses at its pin 5 PWM output. These codes are transmitted in 36-40kHz bursts, to drive infrared LED3. An identical,
non-modulated signal is also sent to the GP0 digital output (pin 7). This has the advantage that you can wire
it in place of the infrared receiver, for a direct wired connection to the head unit.
itors the steering wheel controls via
analog input AN3, while also sensing
tolerance adjustment trimpot (VR1) at
analog input AN1, the state of switch
S1 at digital input GP5 and the signal
from infrared receiver IRD1 at digital
input GP3.
To control the vehicle head unit, IC1
produces remote control code pulses
at its pin 5 PWM output. These codes
are transmitted in 36-40kHz bursts, to
drive infrared LED3. An identical, nonmodulated signal is also sent to the GP0
digital output (pin 7). This has the advantage that you can wire it in place of
the infrared receiver, for a direct wired
connection to the head unit.
The exact modulation frequency
depends on the infrared protocol that
the unit is set up for. It is 36kHz for
the Philips RC5 protocol, 38kHz for
the NEC protocol and 40kHz for the
Sony protocol.
In more detail, the SWC input at
CON1 has a 1kpull-up resistor to
the 5V supply. This forms a voltage divider across the 5V supply, in combination with the steering wheel switch
siliconchip.com.au
resistances, giving a different voltage
at analog input AN3 (pin 3) of IC1 for
each switch that is pressed.
This voltage is applied to the AN3
input via a low pass filter comprising
a 2.2kresistor and 100nF capacitor.
IC1 converts the 0-5V voltage to a digital value between 0 and 255.
So for example, a 2.5V signal would
be converted to a value of 127 or 128,
around half of the maximum value
of 255.
As for the AN1 input, the 0-5V from
trimpot VR1’s wiper is converted to a
digital value. The 0-5V range of VR1
is mapped in software to a 0-500mV
range of tolerance.
So If VR1 is set midway at 2.5V, the
tolerance setting is 250mV (1/10th of
the wiper voltage, measured at TP1).
So the SWC input voltage can differ
from its stored value by up to ±250mV
and still be recognised as that particular switch.
Tolerance is essential since the SWC
voltage may vary with temperature due
to resistance variation in the switch
resistor, and switch contact resistance
Australia’s electronics magazine
can also cause voltage variation.
Having detected a valid SWC button press, IC1 activates its pin 5 and
7 outputs to produce the appropriate
remote control code to send to the vehicle head unit.
The modulated output at pin 5 has a
50% duty cycle. It can drive an infrared LED via a 1k resistor and CON2.
LED2 is also driven by the PWM output during transmissions, as a visible
indication.
The unmodulated output from pin
7 drives the base of NPN transistor Q1
via a 10kresistor and also LED1, via
a 1kresistor. The collector of Q1 is
open so that it can connect directly to
the IR receiver in the head unit. The
emitter is isolated from ground via a
100resistor to reduce current flow
due to the possibly differing ground potentials in this unit and the head unit.
Fig.2 shows the output signals at
pins 5 (yellow) and the collector of Q1
(cyan), demonstrating the 36-40kHz
modulation applied to pin 5 but not
Q1’s collector. In this case, the NEC
protocol is being used so the modulaJune 2019 47
Infrared Coding
Most infrared controllers switch their LED on and off at a modulation frequency of 36-40kHz in bursts (pulses), with the length
of and space between each (pauses) indicating which button was
pressed. The series of bursts and pauses is in a specific format
Philips RC5 (Manchester-encoded) (36kHz)
(or protocol) and there are several commonly used. This includes
the Manchester-encoded RC5 protocol originated by Philips.
There is also the Pulse Width Protocol used by Sony and Pulse
Distance Protocol, originating from NEC.
For more details, see application note AN3053 by Freescale
Semiconductors (formerly Motorola): siliconchip.com.au/link/aapv
icant bits first. The address can be 5-bits, 8-bits or 13-bits long to
make up a total of 12, 15 or 20 bits of data. Repeat frames are the
entire above sequence sent at 45ms intervals.
NEC Pulse Distance Protocol (PDP) (38kHz)
For this protocol, the 0s and 1s are transmitted using 889µs
bursts and pauses at 36kHz. A ‘1’ is an 889µs pause then an 889µs
burst, while a ‘0’ is an 889µs burst followed by an 889µs pause.
The entire data frame has start bits comprising two 1s followed by
a toggle bit that could be a 1 or 0. More about the toggle bit later.
The data comprises a 5-bit address followed by a 6-bit command. The most significant command bits come first.
When a button is held down, the entire sequence is repeated
at 114ms intervals. Each repeat frame is identical to the first.
However, if transmission stops, then the same button is pressed
again, the toggle bit changes. This informs the receiver as to how
long the button has been held down.
That’s so it can, for example, know when to increase volume at
a faster rate after the button has been held down for some time.
Sony Pulse Width Protocol (40kHz)
This is also known also as SIRC, which is presumably an acronym for Sony Infra Red Code. For this protocol, the 0s and 1s
are transmitted with a differing overall length. The pause period is
the same at 600µs, but a ‘1’ is sent as a 1200µs burst at 40kHz,
followed by a 600µs pause, while a ‘0’ is sent as a 600µs burst
at 40kHz followed by a 600µs pause.
The entire data frame starts with a 2.4ms burst followed by a
600µs pause. The 7-bit command is then sent with the least significant bits first. The address bits follow, again with least signif48
Silicon Chip
For the NEC infrared remote control protocol, binary bits zero
and one both start with a 560µs burst modulated at 38kHz. A logic
1 is followed by a 1690µs pause while a logic 0 has a shorter 560µs
pause. The entire signal starts with a 9ms burst and a 4.5ms pause.
The data comprises the address bits and command bits. The address identifies the equipment type that the code works with, while
the command identifies the button on the remote control which
was pressed.
The second panel shows the structure of a single transmission. It
starts with a 9ms burst and a 4.5ms pause. This is then followed by
eight address bits and another eight bits which are the “one’s complement” of those same eight address bits (ie the 0s become 1s and
the 1s become 0s). An alternative version of this protocol uses the
second series of eight bits for extra address bits.
The address signal is followed by eight command bits, plus their
1’s complement, indicating which function (eg volume, source etc)
should be activated. Then finally comes a 560µs “tail” burst to end
the transmission. Note that the address and command data is sent
with the least significant bit first.
The complementary command bytes are for detecting errors. If
the complement data value received is not the complement of the
data received then one or the other has been incorrectly detected or
decoded. A lack of complementary data could also suggest that the
transmitter is not using the PDP protocol.
After a button is pressed, if it continues to be held down, it will
produce repeat frames. These consist of a 9ms burst, a 2.25ms
pause and a 560µs burst. These are repeated at 110ms intervals.
The repeat frame informs the receiver that it may repeat that particular function, depending on what it is. For example, volume up
and volume down actions are repeated while the repeat frame signal
is received but power off or mute would be processed once and not
repeated with the repeat frame.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2 shows the
output signals at pin
5 of IC1 (yellow) and
the collector of Q1
(cyan), demonstrating the 36-40kHz
modulation applied
to pin 5 but not on
Q1’s collector. Note
that the collector has
a 10kpullup resistor
to 5V in order to
be able to show the
voltage swing from
Q1. In this case,
the NEC protocol
is being used so the
modulation is at
38kHz.
tion is at 38kHz.
The unit is set up using infrared
receiver IRD1. This three-pin device
incorporates an infrared photodiode,
amplifier and automatic gain control
plus a 38kHz bandpass filter to accept
only remote control signals, within a
few kHz of the carrier frequency.
The filter is not narrow enough to
reject the 36-40kHz frequencies that
could be produced by various different remote control units.
IRD1 removes the carrier, and the resulting digital signal is fed to the GP3
digital input of IC1 (pin 4), ready for
code detection.
IRD1 runs from a 5V supply filtered
by a 100resistor and 100µF capacitor,
to prevent supply noise causing false
IR code detection.
Pushbutton switch S1 is bypassed
with a 100nF capacitor to filter transients and for switch debouncing. The
voltage at digital input GP5 is held at
5V via a weak pull-up current, internal to IC1.
When S1 is pressed, GP5 is pulled
low to 0V and IC1 detects this. S1 is
used during programming and to set a
new tolerance adjustment.
The circuit is powered from the vehicle’s 12V ignition-switched supply, fed
in via CON1. This supply goes through
an RC low-pass filter (100/470nF)
and then to automotive 5V linear regulator REG1, to power IC1 and the rest
of the circuitry.
The LM2940CT-5.0 regulator will
not be damaged with a reverse supply
connection or transient input voltage
up to 55V, for less than 1ms.
These situations can occur with
some regularity in vehicle supplies,
eg, with an accidentally reversed battery or when windscreen wiper motors
switch off etc.
Construction
The SWC Adaptor is built on a
PCB coded 05105191, measuring 77 x
47mm. It fits into a UB5 Jiffy box. The
overlay diagram, Fig.3, shows how the
components are fitted.
Start with the resistors. These are
colour coded as shown in the parts list.
It’s a good idea to use a multimeter to
check the value of each set of resistors
before fitting them, as the colour codes
can be confused.
We recommend using a socket for
IC1. Take care with the orientation
when installing the socket and IC1.
The capacitors can be fitted next.
The electrolytic types must be installed
with the polarity shown, with the longer positive lead towards the top of the
PCB. The polyester capacitors (MKT)
can be mounted with either orientation on the PCB.
REG1 can be then installed. It’s
mounted horizontally on the PCB.
Bend the leads so they fit the PCB
holes with the tab mounting holes lining up. Secure the regulator to the PCB
with the screw and nut before soldering the leads.
The infrared receiver (IRD1) also
mounts horizontally, with the lens facing up and with the leads bent through
90° to fit into the holes.
Trimpot VR1 is next. It has a value
of 10kand may be marked as either
10k or 103. Follow that with the LEDs
(LED1 and LED2). The anode (longer
lead) goes into the hole marked “A”
on the PCB. The LEDs should be installed with the base of their lenses
about 5mm above the PCB. Switch S1
can also be fitted now.
Next, solder transistor Q1 to the PCB,
with its flat side facing as shown. You
may need to bend its leads out (eg, using small pliers) to fit the pad pattern
on the board.
Now install the two screw terminal
blocks. CON1 is mounted with the
wire entry holes towards the left-hand
edge of the PCB while CON2 should
be fitted with the wire entries toward
the right-hand edge. You can make up
a 4-way terminal by dovetailing two
2-way terminals.
If you are using a socket for IC1 as
suggested, plug in the chip now, ensuring that its pin 1 dot is orientated
as shown in Fig.3.
Housing it
The SWC Adaptor may fit inside
the head unit if there is room, or you
can mount it outside the head unit in
a UB5 box. We used a flanged box that
has an extended length lid with extra
mounting holes. This makes it easier to
Fig.3: the overlay diagram
at left shows component
placement while
the matching
fully component
installed PCB is
shown at right.
Make sure the two
electrolytic capacitors
and IC1 are
correctly
oriented with
the shown polarity.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 49
mount in the car, under the dashboard
is the logical location.
Alternatively, a standard UB5 box
can be used instead, or the unit can be
wrapped in insulation and cable tied
in position.
If fitting it into a box, drill holes at
either end to fit the cable glands which
allow the power supply and infrared
LED wiring to pass through.
There are cut-outs in the PCB to accommodate the gland nuts which go
inside the box. But note that these nuts
must be oriented correctly, with two of
the sides vertical, so they will fit into
the recesses in the board.
The PCB is mounted in the box on
four 12mm-long M3 tapped spacers,
using eight machine screws. Mark
out and drill the 3mm holes for PCB
mounting while you are making the
holes for the cable glands.
Installation
The SWC Adaptor is wired into
the vehicle so that it gets +12V power
when the ignition is switched on. Virtually all head units have connecting
wires carrying 0V (GND) and ignitionswitched +12V, so you can tap into the
supply there.
Just make sure the +12V wire has
power with the ignition on and not
with the ignition off.
The SWC input on the SWC Adaptor connects to the steering wheel control wire. You should already know
where to tap into it from the previous
test where you determined that your
steering wheel controls are suitable for
use with this unit.
The SWC Adaptor has two pairs of
output wires: one pair to drive an external infrared LED (LED3) and another
connecting to the collector and emitter of the transistor which provides the
unmodulated output. You can use either to control the head unit. Each option has advantages and disadvantages.
The infrared LED approach has the
advantage that the head unit does not
need to be opened up; the infrared LED
is simply placed over the infrared receiver on the head unit. The disadvantage is that the wiring to this LED, and
the LED itself, will be visible.
The easiest way to do this is to use a
premade IR Remote Control Extension
Cable. These are available from Jaycar
(see parts list). This has an infrared
LED already mounted in a small neat
housing, with a long lead.
You will need to figure out how to
50
Silicon Chip
Fig.4: holes
are drilled at
both ends of
the box for
the cable glands.
Cut-outs in the PCB
accommodate the gland nuts which
must be oriented correctly, with two of the sides
vertical, so they will fit into the recesses in the board. The PCB is mounted in the
box on four 12mm-long M3 tapped spacers and attached using M3 screws
route that cable from the SWC Adaptor mounting location to the IR receiver
on the head unit.
Adhesive wire saddles are useful for
keeping this wiring neat.
The Jaycar IR extender has a 3.5mm
jack plug which you can cut off, as it
isn’t needed. The LED anode wire is the
one which was connected to the jack
plug tip. You can also get similar extenders from eBay, AliExpress, Kogan
etc, most of which have bare wire ends.
Whichever one you use, wire it to the
A and K terminals of CON2.
It’s then just a matter of sticking the
LED emitter package to the front of
your head unit, directly in front of the
infrared receiver, using its own selfadhesive pad.
If you do not know where the infrared receiver is, it will be in an area free
from switches and knobs.
The front panel may have a purplelooking area over the infrared receiver,
different in appearance from the rest
of the panel.
If you still can’t figure it out, you will
need to test the unit while moving the
transmitter around the panel until you
find a location where it works reliably.
You can then stick it in place.
Tweaking the button sensing
Once you have the unit wired up to
power and the steering wheel controls,
it is a good idea to perform some checks
to make sure it is sensing the steering
wheel buttons accurately.
The Adaptor button sensing input
includes a 1kpull-up resistor to 5V.
This is shown with an asterisk both on
the circuit and PCB. This resistor may
need to be changed in some vehicles
to give reliable button detection and
discrimination.
Australia’s electronics magazine
To check it, monitor the voltage between TP GND and TP2 when the unit
is powered up, pressing each steering
wheel button in turn.
On our test vehicle, we measured
3.93V with switches open, then 0.383V,
0.708V, 1.11V, 1.59V, 2.2V and 2.98V
when each of six switches was pressed
individually. So we had reasonable
steps of more than 300mV between
each voltage. The unit’s tolerance
should then be set to half that value;
in this case, 150mV or less. So we adjusted VR1 for 1.5V at TP1.
But we could have improved the
voltage range if the 1k resistor was
changed to 510. That would give
4.37V with switches open and 0.67V,
1.19V, 1.77V, 2.34V, 3.02V and 3.7V
with each pressed individually. That
would give us a minimum step of at
least 500mV and so the tolerance value
could be set to 250mV (2.5V at TP1).
But as long as the tolerance can
be set to at least 100mV (ie, at least
200mV between the two closest voltage readings), we would consider that
acceptable.
If your steering wheel control
switches provide a voltage range that
differs significantly from ours, you may
benefit from adjusting the 1k resistor value. If your voltage readings are
mostly low, try using a lower value,
while if your readings are all on the
high side, try using a higher value. But
don’t go below 200 as you then risk
damaging the resistors in your steering wheel.
Using the unmodulated output
The advantage of using the unmodulated output from the SWC Adaptor
is that it can be wired internally to the
head unit, so the wiring may be able to
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5 (above) shows the multi-way connector which is used to
connect the front panel to the head unit.
Fig.6 (at right) shows the opened up the front panel of the
head unit and the location of the infrared receiver (arrowed).
But this is not the best location to connect the wire.
be hidden. Usually, only a single wire
needs to be connected to the infrared
receiver on the head unit. This wire can
pass out the back of the head unit and
routed to the SWC Adaptor.
The disadvantage of this approach
is that you need to open up the head
unit, find the infrared sensor output
and solder the wire to it. How this is
done is best shown in the accompanying photos.
In Fig.6, we’ve opened up the front
panel of the head unit and located the
infrared receiver (arrowed). But this
is not the best location to connect the
wire.
Fig.5 shows the multi-way connector which is used to connect the front
panel to the head unit.
To figure out which pin carried the
infrared receiver signal, we plugged
the front panel back into the head unit
and opened its case, then located where
the front panel connector is terminated (see Fig.7). We then powered it up
using a 12V DC source and connected
a DMM set to measure volts between
0V and each pin at the rear of the front
panel in turn.
Look for a pin which measures
around 5V, then measure its voltage
while an infrared transmitter is placed
in front of the unit and a button held
down, so it is transmitting. If you have
the correct pin, that voltage reading
should drop slightly while the infrared
remote control transmitter is active. In
our case, we found that it dropped from
5V to 4.75V during infrared reception.
The arrowed pin in Fig.7 is the one
that we determined carries the infrared
signal, and this is where we soldered
the wire.
You could use an oscilloscope to look
siliconchip.com.au
for the pulses from the infrared receiver; however, the multimeter method is
easier and generally works well.
The SWC Adaptor output includes
a 0V connection for the unmodulated
output. This can be wired to a ground
connection on the same multi-pin connector. However, this should not be
necessary as the infrared receiver on
the head unit should have its ground
pin connected to the head unit chassis
and would be at the same potential as
the 0V connection on CON1.
If you have problems with the unmodulated connection working, try
connecting a wire between these two
points to see if that solves it.
Setting up the unit
Now you need to decide what functions you want from each switch on the
steering wheel. Typically, this would
include volume up and down, source
selection, next and previous file/track/
frequency/station and power on/off.
You are not restricted to the original
purposes of each switch, although it
would be less confusing to do so. You
can use each switch to perform any of
the functions available on the hand-
held remote control supplied with your
head unit.
For some buttons, you may want the
function to repeat if held down (eg,
volume up/down) but with others, you
may not (eg, source selection or on/off).
We found that with some head units,
holding down the source selection button would result in nothing happening.
You would have to press the button
only for a short period to switch to the
next source. That’s not ideal when using steering wheel buttons. So we have
included a feature in the SWC Adaptor where two out of the 10 possible
buttons will not generate repeat codes
even if held down.
So it’s just a matter of assigning functions which may have this shortcoming
on your head unit to those two button
positions.
This would generally include source
selection, power on/off, radio band
change or mute. None of these need
the repeat function.
You can test whether this is necessary by holding those buttons down
on your infrared remote control and
seeing whether the unit behaves as desired, or not.
Fig.7: the arrowed pin in is the one that we determined
carries the infrared signal, and this is where we soldered the wire.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 51
Programming the button
functions
You can now match up the voltages
produced by each steering wheel button to the desired infrared function.
You can program up to 10 switches. It
does not matter what order you program each switch, and you don’t have
to use all 10. The non-repeat feature
mentioned above applies to switches
nine and 10, so you can skip some positions if you don’t have 10 buttons but
need this feature.
All of the programmed infrared codes
must use the same infrared protocol
(NEC, Sony and RC5 are supported –
see overleaf).
That should not be a problem given that your head unit remote control
will be using one protocol for all of its
buttons – and most likely, one of those
supported by this unit.
To enter the programming mode,
hold down S1 while switching on the
vehicle ignition. Entering programming mode clears any previous programming.
So you must program the functions
of all switches each time this mode is
invoked. Upon the release of S1, LED1
will flash once, indicating that the SWC
Adaptor is ready to programming the
first switch function.
Point the handheld remote toward
the infrared receiver on the SWC Adaptor and press the required function button. LED2 should light up. If it does
not, it is possible that your handheld
remote does not use one of the three
supported protocols. LED2 will light
up continuously for codes received in
the NEC protocol. It will flash off once
and then on for the Sony protocol and
flashes off twice for RC5.
Now press and hold the steering
wheel switch that you want to assign
to that function, then press S1 on the
SWC Adaptor. The input voltage for
that switch and the infrared code will
then be stored in permanent flash memory for that switch position. LED1 will
then flash twice, to indicate that the
Adaptor is ready to accept the infrared
code for the second switch function.
Continue programming each switch
for the function required. Each time you
press S1, LED2 will flash a certain number of times, indicating the next switch
number that is ready to be programmed.
You can press S1 again to skip a position that you don’t want to assign (eg,
if you have less than ten steering wheel
52
Silicon Chip
Parts List –
Steering Wheel Control Adaptor
1 PCB coded 05105191, measuring 77 x 47mm
1 UB5 Jiffy box (optionally with flange)
1 3-way PCB mount screw terminal with 5.08mm spacing (CON1)
2 2-way PCB mount screw terminals with 5.08mm spacing (CON2)
1 DIL-8 IC socket
1 momentary SPST pushbutton switch [Altronics S1120, Jaycar SP-0600] (S1)
9 M3 x 6mm pan head machine screws
1 M3 hex nut
4 M3 tapped x 12mm spacers
2 IP65 cable glands for 3-6.5mm wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller programmed with 1510519A (IC1)
1 LM2940CT-5.0 5V automotive regulator (REG1)
1 Infrared receiver [Jaycar ZD1952 or ZD1953, Altronics Z1611A] (IRD1)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 3mm high brightness red LEDs (LED1,LED2)
1 Infrared Remote Control Receiver Adaptor Extender Extension Cable [Jaycar
AR1811 or similar] with adhesive backing for direct mount over IR sensor (LED3)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 22µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF 63V MKT polyester
4 100nF 63V MKT polyester
(code 474, 0.47 or 470n)
(code 104, 0.1 or 100n)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 10k
(code: brown black orange brown or brown black black red brown)
1 2.2k
(code: red red red brown or red red black brown brown)
4 1k
(code: brown black red brown or brown black black brown brown)
3 100
(code: brown black brown brown or brown black black black brown)
1 10kminiature horizontal mount trim pot (VR1)
(may have code 103)
Miscellaneous
Automotive wire, solder, connectors, self tapping screws etc.
buttons). Once the tenth position is programmed, the SWC Adaptor will stop
and not respond.
Switch off power and when you then
switch it back on again, without pressing S1 on the unit, the SWC Adaptor
will begin normal operation, reproducing the stored infrared code each time
one of the selected steering wheel buttons is pressed.
This also applies if you don’t program all ten positions; merely switch
off the ignition when you have finished
programming all the functions that are
required.
To use the special non-repeat feature
at positions nine and ten, you can skip
over the earlier positions using extra
presses of S1 to reach them if you are
not programming all 10 functions. SC
Fig.8: the front panel
for the SWC Adaptor
can be downloaded as
a .pdf from our website and printed onto
paper, transparent
film or adhesivebacked vinyl.
See www.siliconchip.
com.au/Help/
FrontPanels for
details.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
mid-year
hardcore
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On sale 24 May to
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MI
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Transmit and receive data over long distance without
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www.jaycar.com.au
Harness free energy from
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save on video
14
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24
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15A high current charger with maintenance charging
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Send identical signals to two
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AC1755 WAS $49.95
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Double "F" Connectors
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Bidirectional IR
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Suitable for controlling devices up to
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Universal compact
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Suitable for LiPo/LiFe/
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Adjustable current.
Mains powered. MB3629
ORRP $59.95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
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MB3633 $99.95
USB rechargeable
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Bullet QC8637 WAS $99.95
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9
66
C4
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AC600 outdoor Wi-Fi extender
HB5170
$
YN8046
Dual band. Single PoE connection. Functions as Wi-Fi
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YN8349 WAS $119
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179
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on sale 24.5.19 - 23.6.19
55
your destination for projects & DIY.
think. possible.
PROJECT:
DIY wall dodging robot
This little robot is fitted with an ultrasonic sensor
which it uses to help navigate its surroundings.
When it detects an object in front, it backs up,
turns a little and then continues on its way.
SEE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS AT:
www.jaycar.com.au/diy-dodging-robot
WHAT YOU NEED:
2WD motor chassis robotics kit
Duinotech UNO r3 Development Board
Stepper Motor Controller Module
Dual Ultrasonic Sensor Module
150mm Plug to Socket Jumper Leads – 40 pieces
6x AA Battery Holder
KR3160
XC4410
XC4492
XC4442
WC6028
PH9206
$39.95
$29.95
$14.95
$7.95
$5.95
$2.35
NOW
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39
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4495
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KJ934
0
Draw circuits
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Basic Kit 11-piece KJ9340 WAS $69.95 NOW $44.95 SAVE $25
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SAVE $10
PC programmable
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29
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95
SAVE $5
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56
Buy online & collect in store
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KJ8967 WAS $49.95
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19
95 $
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KJ8997 WAS $59.95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
Motorised Robot Arm Kit KJ8995
WAS $139 NOW $119 SAVE $20
click & collect
Includes motors, wheels, tyres and
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Motor voltage:
5-10VDC. KR3162
WAS $49.95
$
An educational introduction to the
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programming or line tracing mode. Requires some
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robot
arm kit
No motors, no batteries required. 12 easy
15
3995
95
$
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37
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NERD PERKS
BUNDLE DEAL
6995
$
Finished Project
Note: Batteries not included
Salt water fuel cell engine car kit
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KJ8960 WAS $24.95
NOW
1495
$
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KJ8939 WAS $19.95
your destination for Arduino, Pi & imagination.
think. possible.
We love to help you make
things! Get started, or
add to your collection of
Arduino® and Raspberry
Pi compatible hardware,
and build something new!
RASPBERRY PI COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the product will
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Raspberry Pi Bundle
Make the next touch screen
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INCLUDES:
Raspberry Pi 3B+
Single Board Computer
XC9001 $84.95
2.8” Touchscreen
XC9022 $29.95
Programming
the Raspberry Pi Book
BM7160 $29.95
5.1V 2.5A Switchmode
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MP3536 $22.95
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XC4989 $19.95
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4
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Pack of 2. HH8584 WAS $7.95
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34
$
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ea
SAVE $4
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Basic Black XC9002 Clear Acrylic XC9004
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29
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95
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2495
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• PCB: 44 × 17mm
KC5522 WAS $33.95
USB host expansion board
Brings the ubiquitous USB Host connectivity
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• 55(W) × 54(D) × 23(H)mm
XC4456 WAS $39.95
595
$
95
USB port voltage checker kit
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24
$
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ESP-13 Wi-Fi shield
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2995
95
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14
$
95
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128 × 128 LCD screen
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NOW
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2995
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the product will
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• 43(L) × 30(W) × 12(H)mm
XC4629 WAS $19.95
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2995
$
ea
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Large LED dot matrix displays
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Red
XC4621 WAS $34.95 SAVE $5
White XC4622 WAS $39.95 SAVE $10
Blue XC4623 WAS $49.95 SAVE $20
NEED A POWER SUPPLY?
MP3480 ONLY $24.95
SAVE $5
Quickbrake brake light
warning kit
It detects when your foot quickly lifts off
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• PCB: 106.5 × 60mm
KC5532 WAS $29.95
NOW
19
$
95
SAVE $10
Heatshrink pack
A box of six common sizes of glue lined
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WH5521 WAS $29.95
SAVE
$
30
NOW
69
$
37-in-1 sensor kit
Includes commonly used sensors and modules for Duinotech
and Arduino®: joystick, magnetic, temperature, IR, LED and more.
Packaged in a clear plastic organiser. XC4288 WAS $99
See website for details.
NOW
9
$
95
SAVE $355
Breadboard jumper kit
Includes 5-pieces each of 14 different
lengths, single core wires.
PB8850 WAS $13.50
NOW
845
$
SAVE $850
half
price!
Transistor pack
100 pieces mixed BC series transistors.
ZT2170 WAS $16.95
on sale 24.5.19 - 23.6.19
57
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58
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59
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Buy a laser cutter; cut an Adirondack Chair
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Mouser QPF4528 FEM for IoT
Mouser Electronics, Inc is now stocking the QPF4528
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and improved speed.
Microchip’s new dsPICs mean larger, more robust applications
Microchip’s new dsPIC33CH512MP508 dual-core DSC enables support for
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This family expands the recently introduced dsPIC33CH with Flash memory
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The dsPIC33CK64MP105 singlecore DSC extends the recently introduced
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compact device offers the ideal combination
of features for automotive sensors, motor
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stand-alone Qi transmitters.
All devices in the dsPIC33C family include
a fully featured set of functional safety hardware to ease ASIL-B and ASIL-C certifications
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Functional safety features include multiple redundant clock sources, Fail Safe Clock
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Contact:
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Unit 32, 41 Rawson St Epping NSW 2121
Tel: (02) 9868 6733
Website: www.microchip.com
Fully Optioned, Complete Solutions from Rohde & Schwarz
Rohde & Schwarz are delivering big savings on their
Value Instruments range with a never-to-be-repeated
offer that slashes prices for some instruments by as
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From 20 May through to 31 December 2019, users
can save money while updating their bench-top equipment – taking advantage of the Rohde & Schwarz sale
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The sale includes fully optioned spectrum analysers,
power supplies, power analysers and oscilloscopes.
More information can be found on the web at
www.rohde-schwarz.com/au/featured-topics/valueinstruments/value-instruments_230648.html
or on the Rohde & Schwarz Australia LinkedIn page at
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SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 61
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Fixing a “Cheap as” set of cans
While there’s a huge range of cheap electronics
available online, some of it really is ‘cheap’. It’s
unfortunately not uncommon to receive goods
different to what you paid for. Sometimes I
wonder whether the time lost dealing with all
this is worth the money saved.
I don’t know about the rest of you,
but I’ve made good use of cheap Chinese imported goods. I discovered
AliExpress many years ago but I was
initially hesitant to send any money
off in that direction.
After all, early incarnations of Alibaba and similar B2B (business-tobusiness) sites were ill-policed and
well-known as a scammers’ paradise.
But after I dipped my toe into the warm
waters of low-cost electronics, I became comfortable with the idea and
by now, I’ve ended up throwing a lot
of cash eastwards.
I have now completed many hundreds of trades, often finding and purchasing components I haven’t been
able to find locally for ages. For the
most part, it has been a painless experience. These days especially, with
escrow-type payments and a credible
seller feedback system, buying something from any of China’s online merchant sites is simple and (mostly) without fear of being burned.
This is not to say everything always
goes smoothly; once, after much toing and fro-ing with a vendor via the
messaging system, I ordered a relatively expensive circuit board for a
client’s dead flat-screen TV. Instead,
what turned up in the post was a very
cheap Fitbit-style device worth a fraction of the cost of the PCB.
When I went back to the vendor to
get an explanation, I got no answer,
despite repeated and increasinglypointed messages. Eventually, I decided that he must be purposely trying to exceed the then-30-day buyerFor those not in the trade, “cans” is a
common nickname for headphones.
62
Silicon Chip
protection period, after which he’d
be paid regardless, unless I lodged a
complaint first.
The guy eventually did reply, claiming the error had been made at China
Post and was thus out of his hands
and I should get hold of them to sort
it out. He also requested I mark the
goods received and accepted so payment could be made.
Since I didn’t come down in the last
shower, I declined his generous offer
and told him that unless he sent me
the board I’d ordered, I would lodge
a complaint, apply for a full refund
and give negative feedback, something
most vendors try to avoid at (almost)
any cost.
After hearing nothing more for a
week, I went ahead and filed a dispute
and got my money back. Unfortunately, he was the only vendor I could find
selling that particular PCB, so that was
the end of that. However, this sort of
event is quite rare, and I’ve only had
to deal with a handful of disputes over
the years.
Caveat emptor
For the most part, the products depicted on the site are as-described, and
aside from the odd purchase taking
over six weeks to arrive, most transactions are hassle-free, and everyone
comes away happy. That said, B2B
sites can still be a trap for the unwary.
A certain amount of awareness and a
healthy dollop of common sense goes
a long way to avoiding potential embarrassment.
In the early days, I learned the hard
way. For example, there were many
listings for ‘iPhones’ priced considerably below what you’d expect to pay
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dave Thompson
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
Headphones in one ear, regret
in another
Digital photo frame repair
A self-discharging Suzuki Vitara
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
here. The ’phones certainly looked like
iPhones, complete with the Apple logo
and product information stencilled on
the case, and no wonder; the images
were those of actual iPhones.
But in reality, the item for sale was
a locally-produced clone, and not a
very good one at that. The phone I received was nothing like the one in the
photo. Not only was it nowhere near
as well-made as a real iPhone, but it
also was low-spec, didn’t run iOS (it
used some version of Android) and
couldn’t be used with an Apple account, run iTunes or use any other
apps from the Apple Store.
I ended up giving it away to a visitor
to the workshop who expressed interest in it; I think he threw it in the bin
not long after that. Thankfully, this
type of deception is now rare, and
dodgy vendors are quickly reported
and removed. It still pays to be cautious though, especially when something seems “too good to be true”.
Those new to these sites might think
some of the advertised products are
fantastic bargains, but more experienced visitors know that most of the
time genuine big-name products are
not that much cheaper (if at all) than
those sold by local retailers or Western online vendors. At least here we
are protected by consumer laws and
warranties, which is not always the
case with foreign purchases.
Even servicemen sometimes
fall into traps
A while back I was in the market for
siliconchip.com.au
a new set of headphones, and I purchased a pair of Sony wireless Bluetooth “over-ear” style headphones
from a local big-box store. I couldn’t
wait to get home and try them out, but
was extremely disappointed when I
plugged them in and discovered that
while they were well-made (as with
most Sony products), and comfortable, the sound quality was abysmal.
I was annoyed with myself more
than anything; the only store who
carried this particular model of headphones didn’t have a “try-before-youbuy” stand like many others (policy,
they said), so I’d thrown caution to the
wind and relied on price-point, brand
recognition and faith that being Sony,
they should be good quality.
Before I discovered the benefits of
decent earplugs, I’d had my hearing
pounded by years of exposure to power
tools, high-octane model-aircraft racing engines, playing in bands and attending too many rock concerts. But
I can still differentiate between what
sounds good and what doesn’t, especially when using headphones.
So I took them back to the store
and had a stand-up argument with
the teen-aged ‘manager’ who insisted
that either I hadn’t charged the battery
enough or that I expected too much fisiliconchip.com.au
delity from a Bluetooth wireless system. Apparently, this was no basis for
returning them.
I politely informed the guy that the
battery was well charged and that the
Bluetooth earbud headphones I bought
from China for a few dollars to use
with my mobile phone had excellent
fidelity and outperformed these expensive Sony ‘studio’ ’phones by a
wide margin.
I stood my ground and asked to try
out another set of the same model
headphones, in case the originals were
faulty, but the manager informed me
Sony wouldn’t allow them to open a
sealed box without a sale, so I demanded a refund instead.
While I eventually got my money
back, the store made me jump through
hoops and wait for more than a fortnight while they sent the headphones
back for ‘testing’ and got the warranty sorted.
My complaints that this whole process broke our consumer-guarantee
laws fell on deaf ears (LOL), but I was
vindicated a few months later when I
read reports that this chain of stores
had been prosecuted, found guilty
and substantially fined for dozens of
similar breaches of consumer regulations. I certainly won’t be shopping
there ever again.
It’s no wonder then that I (and others) increasingly shop online, often
from overseas vendors. Not only do I
avoid being patronised, but I also cut
out the greedy middle-man altogether,
and this makes my hard-earned dollar go further.
However, the government has
caught on – most likely due to lobbying
by campaign-funding, cry-baby bigbox retailers who constantly whinge
about an ‘uneven playing field’, despite them having gouged consumers blind for years – and are intent on
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman
column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 63
introducing an “Amazon tax”, like in
Australia.
This will add GST and other local taxes onto products valued at less
than $1000 purchased from overseas
(products valued $1000 or more are
already heavily taxed), though I’m
not sure how they are going to coerce
Amazon, Bangood or AliExpress into
collecting Kiwi taxes.
I guess that these online sellers will
merely do what they’ve done in other
countries whose über-greedy governments slap taxes on small overseas
purchases and either stop selling here
altogether or limit what products are
sold here. Excellent!
Going on a shopping spree
In the meantime, I’m buying all I
can. Lots of cheapo modules like Arduinos and accessories, valves, amplifiers, guitar parts, shoes, clothes; you
name it, I’ve bought it!
One of these purchases was a pair
of headphones. The listing on AliExpress showcased some Bingle-branded
wired models (with USB and 3.5mm
audio jack connectors) that ticked all
my purchasing boxes.
They look very similar to those (typically) green ‘aviator’ or military-style
noise-excluding headphones you often
64
Silicon Chip
see pilots wearing. As I’d tested or repaired hundreds of ‘real’ versions during my time at the airline, they have
the benefit of familiarity. They also
possess a certain retro-cool.
But all was not as it seemed; while
the ’phones in the product images were
almost certainly the genuine Bingle
versions, the ones that arrived here
almost certainly weren’t.
They looked similar, but the buildquality said otherwise. The seller had
also offered to ship the product without retail packaging because the increased size makes postage more expensive. More likely the product isn’t
genuine and the packaging is non-existent or a plain white box.
While some sites offer the product
in retail packaging, the cost is usually higher, perhaps to dissuade buyers.
Not all sellers will be hawking fake
products using this ploy, but due diligence is recommended!
In this case, I chose to get the packaging, just in case I wanted to re-sell
the ’phones at some point and duly
paid more for the privilege. When
the ’phones arrived, the typical yellow tape and a single sheet of waferthin bubble-wrap packaging hadn’t
prevented the box from being bashed
in transit to roughly the shape of
Australia’s electronics magazine
the ’phones inside anyway. Lesson
learned.
While they weren’t the real thing,
they did at least sound quite good and
were reasonably comfortable to wear.
Nonetheless, I had much remorse, as
well as annoyance at myself for falling for the dodge.
I filed a dispute but only asked for
half the purchase price back. For better or worse I had a set of ’phones,
and returning them would have cost
me more than all this was worth – a
fact I’m sure many vendors are wellaware of. I left feedback accordingly,
leaving no doubt about the authenticity of the product and put it all down
to experience.
I note that these ’phones are no
longer being sold on AliExpress where
once they were all over this site. I wonder why…
And this was how things remained
until one day the ’phones stopped
working on one side. Actually, the detachable boom mic stopped working
first, almost from day one, but since
I wasn’t using it and had removed it
anyway, I wasn’t too bothered. But
when the right-hand driver suddenly stopped, it was time to roll up my
sleeves and break out the screwdriver set.
Time for a repair
Some headphones I’ve worked on in
the past have been a real pain to tear
down, being tightly clipped together
with breakaway plastic tabs. Getting
them open is semi-destructive, and
they have to be glued back together.
Surprisingly, these headphones were
all screwed together, and with standard fasteners – none of those ridiculous
anti-tamper things to hinder my progress – so disassembly was a doddle.
The way into the headphones is
typical of most; remove the cushioned
earpads by working around the edge of
the earpad mounts, gently stretching
the material clear. Once off, the screws
holding the mounts are revealed; there
were four on each side to take out.
To make things easier, I removed the
thumbscrew-style height adjusters sitting above each pod (or “can”) and released them from the headband assembly. The two cans were still connected
by an audio cable, which runs through
the hollow headband padding, but after removing the stiff metal part of the
headband, I could at least flex everything and work on each side without
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the other getting in the way.
I began with the left-hand pod, as
this is where the main audio cable
enters and any electronics should be
located inside it.
After removing the outer earpiece
ring, there were three longer screws
underneath holding the two shells of
the can together. Once the screws were
out, the two halves easily separated.
Inside was a sizeable PCB containing
what I assumed to be an amplifier and
a USB decoder.
The 3m long main cable enters the
bottom of the pod through a plastic
strain-reliever and sports USB and
3.5mm jacks (one 3.5mm stereo jack
for sound input and another mono jack
for microphone output) at the far end.
A second, much thinner cable exits
the top of the can through a grommet
and heads off through the headband
to the other pod.
The shielded main cable contains
eight tiny wires, and the thinner cable
has three, all colour-coded and terminated to their respective solder pads
on the PCB. Or perhaps I should say,
they should be terminated; I could
see three wires floating happily in the
breeze, while the others looked to be
tack-glued to the PCB with large, dull
solder blobs.
Whoever put this together should
go back to soldering school. It was a
wonder it worked at all!
Before doing anything, I had to figure out which wire went where on the
PCB. As is typical on cheap electronics, there was no information screen
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printed onto the board. Usually, if
leads break free, they are relatively
easy to match using a microscope and
a basic comparison with their distinctively broken ends; if just not connected properly, this can be a bit trickier.
Luckily, in this case, I could match
each wire to an impression in the solder blobs enough to make an educated guess.
The type of wire used in the cables is prevalent in audio gear.
Each multi-stranded wire is
very fine and well-insulated,
but not by an obvious plastic coating like other types of
wire. Each wire also has very
fine cotton or synthetic threads
running through it, likely for
strain relief, which along with
the insulation material makes
soldering it a real challenge.
Even with a decent amount
of heat, solder just beads and runs off.
No wonder it was just globbed together
at the sweatshop, er, I mean factory.
In the past, I’ve had to burn the insulation off to be able to solder it. In
the early days, I used a match; now,
I use a small gas torch, the kind used
for jewellery or micro-welding. A brief
touch to the end of the wire causes
the thread and insulation to instantly
burn off. A quick pinch with a damp
sponge removes any crispy remains,
leaving shiny wire behind.
While solder sticks to this cleaned
surface, I also use a touch of flux to
help it ‘sweat’ through.
While I was at it, I also re-soldered
the other connections, prepping and
cleaning wires and PCB pads before
tinning them all with fresh solder. It
was simply a matter of a quick touch
with the iron to re-connect everything
and a sound-check confirmed I had
audio in both cans and a working microphone.
Reassembly was as easy and pulling them apart, and I still use these
’phones today. Not exactly Bingles, but
OK for cheap Chinese imports.
Digital photo frame repair
B. P., of Dundathu, Qld is another
person who is willing to put in a little bit of effort to fix a device, even a
fairly cheap one, rather than throwing
it away and buying a new one. And as
he says, sometimes the faulty component is obvious and the repair is not
too difficult. You just need to be willing to have a go…
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 65
A few years ago, we bought a
used 15-inch digital photo frame on
Gumtree. Initially, I had some problems setting up this unit, as it didn’t
want to display the photos on the SD
card and reverted to showing the stock
photos on the inbuilt memory.
I solved this by deleting the stock
photos and putting our photos on the
inbuilt memory. It then performed well
for a few years.
But recently, my wife commented
that she was having problems getting
the photos to display and she would
need to power the unit on and off several times before it started working.
This went on for around a week; then
it just stopped working altogether.
I observed that it would initially
show the splash screen for around
one second, then a blank screen. I
tried a different plugpack power supply in case that was faulty, but nothing changed.
So the unit itself was faulty and I
suspected that it might be a dud capacitor. I started opening it up by removing the 12 #1 Philips head screws
from the back cover, which gave access to the inside. I then disconnected four plugs so I could remove the
back completely and inspect the circuit boards.
It didn’t take long to spot the faulty
electrolytic capacitor on the inverter board. The bung had been pushed
out the bottom of the 220µF 25V unit.
That was apparently the problem, and
I thought it would be an easy fix.
Usually, I would use a salvaged capacitor for repairs like this, but because this capacitor was lying down,
I would need to use a new capacitor
with long leads. Because of the limited
space inside the unit and the fact that
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Silicon Chip
the inverter board has a plastic cover
over it, I couldn’t mount the replacement vertically.
With a new capacitor fitted, I reinstalled the inverter board and went
to re-connect the four plugs that I had
disconnected earlier. But when I went
to re-connect the 20-pin plug on the
video board, but I ran into a problem.
Typically, there is one pin missing
on the header and a blank in the plug,
so you can’t insert it backwards, but
in this case, there was not and I had
not paid any attention to the orientation of the plug when I’d removed it.
Being mindful that if I put the plug on
the wrong way, I could damage something, I had a closer look at the PCB
and the plug.
Luckily, on closer inspection, it was
obvious which way the plug went on.
The PCB was marked +3.3V at one end
of the header, and the 20-pin plug had
two red wires at one end. The other
end had two holes with no wires in
them. So clearly, the end of the plug
with the two red wires went to the end
of the header that was marked +3.3V
on the PCB.
Because of the missing wires, it
seems that no damage would have
occurred if it was reversed anyway, it
just wouldn’t have worked.
Before permanently attaching the
back, I gave the unit a quick test to
make sure that it was working. On
connecting it up and turning on the
switch, I could see the splash screen
very faintly, indicating that the backlighting was not operating. I then realised that one of the plugs for the backlighting that I had just re-connected
had come out, so I plugged it back in
and tried again.
This time, the screen came up
Australia’s electronics magazine
brightly, indicating that the unit was
now working. I turned it off and disconnected the plugpack and replaced
the 12 screws that secure the unit together, as well as refitting the stand. I
could now return the unit to use again
after a successful repair.
My wife and I both noticed that the
display was now a much better colour than it had been previously. I concluded that as the old capacitor was
failing, that the voltage for the backlighting must have dropped, therefore
resulting in a duller than normal backlight and therefore a slightly washedout picture.
The replacement cost of a brand new
unit equivalent to this one is over $100,
so for 45 cents and a bit of time, this
unit was saved from the scrap heap and
will live on in its second life.
A Suzuki Vitara and its
discharging battery
S. Z., of Queanbeyan, NSW had the
maddening experience of not being
able to track down the source of an intermittent fault. Most of us know what
that’s like; it seems that the problem
will occur any time except for when
you are trying to track down its cause!
He found it in the end, although it took
a great deal of luck…
After a long period of being very
kind to batteries (some lasting many,
many years), my Suzuki Vitara recently started killing them. It began
on the morning of the Australia Day
long weekend. We were about to leave
for a big trip to Morton National Park
to tackle Monkey Gum Fire Tail when
the car refused to start. The battery
was dead flat. That’s never happened
before.
At the time, I surmised it was just
siliconchip.com.au
because I had been “showing off” the
newly installed winch to the missus
the night before, and maybe I’d used up
more charge than I’d thought. I managed to charge it up enough to start
it, but just to be sure, I bought a new
battery that morning and installed it.
The trip was a success, although it
was tough on the vehicle. Minor body
damage will remain forever as a reminder to never tackle that track again.
A few days later, when I tried to
start the car for the commute to work,
the new battery was again dead flat.
The battery was also quite warm to
the touch. The charger refused even
to try charging the new battery. Luckily, I’d kept the old one, and it was on
charge. I put the old battery back in
and it started the car easily.
I thought that I’d simply been sold
a dud battery. When I took it to the
place I got it, they declared that it
had a shorted cell and replaced it for
me, although I didn’t put it in the car
straight away.
The very next morning when I attempted to start the car, it was again
dead. The battery was again warm to
the touch. This time it had ejected a lot
of electrolyte into the engine bay too! I
now thought that the car might have a
massive “phantom load” that was utterly discharging the battery overnight.
Over the years, I’ve added a couple of extra power feeds directly from
the battery terminals, including one
for radio equipment and one for the
new winch.
As the winch was the latest change
I had made, I suspected it might have
caused this problem. Just to be safe, I
disconnected everything that wasn’t
essential to running the car.
I removed the now-dead old battery and put the second new battery
in and drove to work – late and somewhat confused.
During my lunch break, I started
looking for this phantom load. I used
an ammeter to measure the current
flowing through the extra power wires
I’d installed with the vehicle switched
off, but couldn’t find any. I then connected the ammeter between the positive terminal of the battery and the battery connector itself and got a reading
of about 35mA. That seemed normal.
So I was stumped. Two batteries
failed in the same way, yet I couldn’t
find any phantom loads. I spent the
next couple of days doing further
current and resistance measurements
siliconchip.com.au
while jiggling cables and connectors.
I also spent time checking the alternator voltage regulation as maybe it
was overcharging batteries and causing damage. I was pretty puzzled all
as everything measured as being OK.
Maybe I’d just gotten unlucky twice,
but I started disconnecting the negative side of the battery terminal every
night just to be sure.
A week after all this began, I had
some spare time but was out of ideas,
so had another look under the bonnet. I
remembered that the last battery event
had spewed acid everywhere, so I decided to hose out the engine bay. It got
a good wash, especially near the battery, where most of the acid was. Then
I heard the distinct sound of rapidly
boiling water, similar to frying.
This noise directed me to the fault
like a beacon. A single wire, part of a
larger wire loom, had been rubbing
Australia’s electronics magazine
against the metal of the battery holder, probably for years, and had finally
scraped through the insulation.
This wire is obviously connected
to the battery positive terminal and is
situated in such a way that the slightest bump or vibration could allow it
to short against the grounded frame,
or remove the short. So that’s why I
couldn’t find it earlier.
This would have driven me mad.
Being well hidden from view means
that I would never have seen the bare
wire if the sound hadn’t alerted me.
The repair was simple: some selfamalgamating tape for the wire, and
an extra physical barrier material
wrapped around the entire wire loom.
Intermittent faults are the worst,
and are particularly soul-destroying
when it means you can’t trust something you need to use every day. This
time, I was lucky!
SC
June 2019 67
This is one of those gadgets which you have always needed – but until now,
never realised it! It uses the highly accurate time signals embedded in a
GPS signal to display your car’s speed – almost certainly with much more
accuracy than your speedo. It displays the exact time – without you having
to set it. And last – but by no means least – it automatically adjusts your
car radio/stereo volume to a comfortable level which suits the speed you’re
travelling at as well as noise in the car. It’s cheap and easy to build . . .
GPS FineSa ver
...PLUS!
If
• Very Accurate Speedo
• Very Accurate Clock
• Automatic Car Audio
Volume Adjustment
by Tim Blythman
you have any doubts about the accuracy of your
car’s inbuilt speedo (and you should!), then this
little circuit is about to become your best friend!
Speedometers can (legally) give readings which overstate your true speed by as much as (10% + 4km/h) high!
That can leave you with a difficult decision: be overtaken by just about everybody, or speed up and risk going
over the speed limit, as you don’t know exactly how fast
you are going.
By the way, if you drive an older (<2006) car its speedo
could be worse – much worse! The old rule simply said
±10% – so if you’re innocently driving along with your
speedo showing 100km/h (the speed limit), you could actually be doing 110km/h – and you won’t know about it
until you start seeing flashes of red and blue!
But with a clear view of the sky, GPS speed readings
are typically accurate to well within 1km/h. So it’s worth
68
Silicon Chip
building this project just for that function alone.
But wait, there’s more!
It’s also a very accurate clock. GPS provides not only an
accurate determination of your speed and position, but the
(exact) current time as well.
This is converted from UTC to your local time and it is
also shown on the display. All that you need to do when
you set up the unit is enter your local timezone offset.
Having accurate time also solves yet another common
driving problem: your dashboard clock says it’s 4:01pm...
Phew! Just missed that school zone 40km/h limit. So you
sail through at the “normal” 60km/h speed limit.
Or did you just miss it? Is it actually 3:59pm and the
40km/h school zone limit still applies? FLASH! Uh-oh:
maybe your clock is ever-so-slightly out?
It’s better to know for sure, and GPS time is accurate to
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the millisecond. (That, incidentally, is also how school time
zones know when to book you
and when not to).
of the GPS Volume Control, and
it will control the volume of the
audio passing through it.
• Powered from 12V DC (eg, vehicle supply) or USB 5V DC
Alternatively, if you have a
• Automatic GPS speed-based volume control
head unit feeding a line level
I already have a sat-nav! • GPS speed display
signal into a dedicated amplifiNot like this, you don’t. In- • Shows local time derived from GPS
er, then the GPS Volume Control
built (ie, OEM-fitted) sat-nav • Volume control range: 0-200%
can be connected between the
systems are great – but we don’t
head unit and amplifier. Many
know of any which display in- • Stylish, slimline laser-cut case
aftermarket head units have
stantaneous speed, as this one • Blue OLED display matches many car consoles
RCA ‘preout’ output sockets at
does. That’s because the manu- • Display brightness adjustment
the back. In this case, you can
facturers want to avoid a legal • Automatic display dimming can be easily added
use 2xRCA to 3.5mm jack plug
“stoush” when the sat-nav and
leads to make the connections.
speedo showed different readings, which they almost inIf you have a standard DIN-size radio in your car but no
variably will.
preouts and/or no separate amplifier, the easiest way to in(On the other hand, aftermarket sat-nav units almost install this device seamlessly may be to replace your radio
variably display instantaneous speed, which is why you’ll
with one that does have preouts and wire up a separate
see many cars with both an in-dash and an on-dash GPS).
amplifier to drive the vehicle’s inbuilt speakers. You can
then easily connect this unit between those two devices.
But wait, there’s even more!
Unfortunately, if you have a single dedicated head unit
When you are driving in traffic which is continually
with integrated amplifier, there’s usually no easy way to tap
speeding up and slowing down, do you continually have
into the audio path to alter its volume. Your only real opto nudge the volume of your radio or car stereo up and
tion is to open the unit up, find the tracks feeding the sigdown to maintain a comfortable listening level above the
nals into the power amplifier section, cut these, then solder
road noise? This clever little device will do that for you,
the inner conductor of shielded wires to each end of these
without you having to take your eyes off the road!
tracks, with the shields going to a nearby ground point.
Many newer (luxury?) cars have this feature built in –
These wires can then be soldered to 3.5mm stereo plugs,
it’s called SVC or speed-sensitve volume control. Build
one for the outputs of the preamp and one for the inputs to
this project and your old jallopy can have this feature too!
the amplifier, which should then be routed out of a hole at
You can see a typical display in the photo opposite.
the rear of the unit (drill one if necessary), which can then
The bar graph at the bottom shows the volume adjustbe plugged into the GPS Volume Control sockets.
ment which is currently being applied to audio signals
Each head unit will route its audio signals differently
passing through the unit. Refer to Fig.4 to get an idea of
so we can’t give you much guidance in finding them, exhow the volume varies with speed. We’ll cover that in
cept to suggest that you look for the audio amplifier chips/
more detail later.
transistors, which will probably have heatsinks, and try to
find the signal tracks leading to them.
Making the audio connections
You will need a scope or audio probe to have much
Looking at the volume control function first, it has a
chance of figuring out which tracks carry the audio signals.
3.5mm stereo input and output socket, for compactness.
This is not a job for the faint-hearted or inexperienced.
The way you use the GPS Volume Control will depend on
How it works
the setup you have.
You will need to be able to inUnsurprisingly, the GPS Volume Consert the GPS Volume Control into
trol is based around a microcontrolthe audio signal path to give it
ler. The circuit diagram is shown
control of the volume.
in Fig.1. We’re using a ‘lowly’
It is ideally suited to takPIC16F1455.
ing audio from a portaWhile this is a low-cost device,
ble audio source such
it does everything we need and
as an MP3 player or
comes in a compact 14-pin DIL
mobile phone with a
package.
3.5mm output socket. If
You might rememyou have an arrangement
ber that we used this
where you connect a
chip for the May
mobile phone into the
2017 Microbridge
auxiliary input on your
(siliconchip.com.
radio ‘head unit’, then
au/Article/10648)
this lead can now be used
and Micromite
to connect the GPS Volume
V2 BackPack
Control to the head unit.
(siliconchip.com.au/
Then you will merely need another
Article/10652) articles.
auxiliary lead to connect your exIt has USB support, but we
isting audio source into the input
aren’t using that in this project.
siliconchip.com.au
Features
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 69
Let’s start by looking at the audio processing, as that is
one of the main aspects of this device.
The stereo audio signal is applied to CON2, a 3.5mm
socket. 100kresistors provide a DC bias to ground while
1kseries resistors protect the rest of the circuit from excessive voltages.
The signal is then AC-coupled to digital potentiometer IC2 via 1µF non-polarised capacitors, with the digital pot signals DC-biased to a 2.5V half supply rail via
22kresistors.
IC2 is an MCP4251 dual 5kdigital potentiometer. The
P0A/P0B and P1A/P1B terminals connect to either end
of the ‘track’ of the internal potentiometers, while P0W
and P1W are the digitally controlled ‘wipers’ which move
along those ‘tracks’.
The audio signals are applied to the “A” track ends while
the “B” track ends are connected directly to the 2.5V reference rail. So with the ‘wiper’ at the “A” end, the signal
amplitude is pretty much the same as the original, and
when it is at the “B” end, the signal is heavily attenuated.
Intermediate positions give different amounts of attenuation.
There is a little extra attenuation in the signal due to
the 1kseries protection resistors, so the maximum output signal is about 80% of full amplitude while the minimum is around 1%.
The signals from the wipers go directly to the non-inverting inputs (pins 3 & 5) of dual rail-to-rail op amp IC3
(LM6482AIN). The two channels have a gain of around
three, set by the 10kand 5.1kfeedback resistors. As
well as providing gain, this op amp provides low output
impedances.
Taking this gain into account, the total gain across the
analog section of the circuit is just over two. Given that
the digital potentiometers power up with their wipers set
at their mid-points, the default gain is slightly over unity.
The output from IC3 is AC-coupled by two more 1µF capacitors. The op amp is isolated from any output capacitance by a pair of 100resistors. The 22kresistors re-bias
the output signals near 0V. These signals are fed to another
3.5mm jack socket, CON3.
GPS data
The GPS module is connected to CON7 and runs from
the same 5V rail as the ICs in this circuit. It generates position, speed and time data once per second and this is sent
to microcontroller IC1 in NMEA1803 format. This signal
goes to the hardware UART serial input on pin 5.
We used an SKM53-based module for our prototype but
the VK2828U7G5LF modules (or revised -U8G5LF versions)
available from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP also work fine
(see siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3362).
IC1 processes the serial stream and extracts time, speed
and validity data from the RMC ‘sentence’, which it expects
to receive at 9600 baud. That is the default for many GPS
modules, including those mentioned above.
Note that the “RM” in RMC stands for “recommended
minimum”, meaning that all NMEA-compatible GPS receivers will generate this data. Typical RMC data is shown
in Fig.2.
IC1’s system clock is generated internally and runs at
48MHz, with a 12MHz instruction clock.
Once IC1 gets valid data, it updates the display on the
OLED screen using an I2C serial bus from pins 7 (SCL,
clock) and 8 (SDA, data). This display shows your current
speed, in large digits.
It also calculates the new potentiometer setting for the
appropriate volume, based on your speed, and sends a
command to the digital pot to update its current ‘position’.
This is sent over IC1’s SPI serial bus to IC2 via pins 9 (SDI
- data), 10 (SCK - clock) and 6 (CS - chip select).
The three onboard tactile pushbuttons are connected
between pins 2, 12 & 13 of IC1 and ground. These pins are
configured as digital inputs and each has a 10kpull-up
resistor to the 5V rail.
So usually these inputs are held high but if a button is
pressed, that input goes low and IC1 detects this and takes
the appropriate action.
Why do you need to turn the volume up when you’re moving faster?
Most sources of noise in a vehicle vary
depending upon your speed.
The major sources vary from vehicle
to vehicle, but it typically consists of a
mix of road (tyre) noise, engine noise and
wind noise.
Engine noise can be further broken up
into induction noise, mechanical noise,
transmission noise and exhaust noise.
Road noise is the sound that your tyres
make as they rotate and distort under the
weight of the vehicle. This varies based on
speed, road surface, conditions (eg, water on the road) and tyre type/condition.
It’s attenuated by the vehicle’s soundproofing, but some vehicles have much
better soundproofing than others.
The only easy way to reduce this is to
swap out your tyres for quieter ones, but
there is usually a compromise between quietness, grip and cost. So if you want quiet
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Silicon Chip
tyres with lots of grip, they will probably be
costly. And high-performance tyres are usually noisy even though they are expensive.
Engine noise varies by many different
parameters. There is very little of this in an
electric car – usually just a whine.
But petrol and diesel engines can vary
from whisper quiet to deafening. This varies
to some extent based on load, which is related
to how fast you are going, as well as whether
you’re going up or down a hill and whether
you are accelerating, cruising or coasting.
Engine noise consists primarily of induction noise (air going into the engine) and mechanical noise (fuel injectors, valves, gears).
Combustion noise is normally muffled significantly by the water jacket.
Vehicles with forced induction (turbo- or
supercharged) typically have less induction
noise, since the compressor muffles it. But
modern direct-injection petrol or diesel enAustralia’s electronics magazine
gines typically have very audible injectors, while older engines may have more
valve-train noise.
Exhaust noise depends on the type of
engine, load conditions and exhaust system type and condition. Exhausts in poor
condition or high-performance exhausts
will let a lot more noise through. Turbocharged cars may have less exhaust noise
since the turbine reduces exhaust pressure pulses.
Wind noise is typically only heard at
higher speeds and usually only if the
other sources of noise are low (ie, a wellinsulated car with a quiet engine cruising at speed). You may hear whistles or
buffeting.
This varies depending on the aerodynamic design and anything attached to the
outside of the vehicle, such as a roof rack,
rain shields, bull bar and so on.
siliconchip.com.au
Power supply
DC power is fed into either CON1, a 2-way header or at
CON6, a mini-USB socket. CON1 can be connected to a
vehicle’s nominally 12V DC supply (varying over approximately 11-14.5V) and this feeds 5V regulator REG1 via
D1, a schottky diode used for reverse polarity protection.
If USB power is applied to CON6, this bypasses REG1 and
powers the circuit directly.
Only one of these power sources should be connected at
any time. The 5V rail powers IC1, IC2, IC3, the OLED screen,
the GPS module and is also used to derive the 2.5V half supply rail via two 10kresistors and a 220µF filter capacitor.
Fig.1: audio from CON2
is coupled to IC2, a dual
digital potentiometer. The
volume-adjusted signals
appear at pins 6 and 9
and are then fed to op
amp IC3 for buffering and
amplification before being
fed to output socket
CON3. This is all
controlled by micro IC1
which gets the current
speed and time from the
GPS module wired to
CON7 and also updates
the OLED MOD1 display
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 71
being used for calculations.
Laser-cut case
We’ve designed a slimline laser-cut case specifically for
this project, so the completed unit is only about 20mm
thick. The top panel is simple, with just the display and
three buttons visible. Access to the power, audio and header for the GPS are through the sides, as is the trimpot for
brightness adjustment.
Sourcing the OLED screen
RMC Sentence
Time
GPS State
Speed in knots
Date
Fig.2: the GPS module produces a serial data stream
consisting of ‘sentences’ which carry GPS information.
The ‘RMC’ sentence contains all the information we need;
the time, speed (in knots) and whether a valid fix has been
achieved. Note that in this case, the date is out by around
19 years as this module suffers from the GPS week roll-over
bug, but it still gives valid time and speed data.
Serial communications
As mentioned above, the GPS signal, OLED screen control and digital potentiometer control are transmitted over
three different types of serial bus: UART, I2C and SPI respectively.
To avoid conflicts between the various hardware peripheral modules and to provide maximum pin flexibility, the
UART interface is implemented in hardware while the I2C
and SPI buses are software-driven (‘bit banged’).
The control of the digital potentiometer is straightforward; we need only transmit a six-bit command followed
by a ten-bit potentiometer value to update the position of
one of the potentiometers. For simplicity, this sixteen-bit
command is sent as two eight-bit values, as we don’t need
the full precision of the potentiometers.
The value sent is proportional to the wiper position and
thus the final volume. Both channels are set to the same
value to maintain stereo balance.
The display module, MOD1, incorporates an SH1106
display controller and a 128x64 OLED panel, as well as
I2C pull-up resistors and a regulator to supply 3.3V to the
SH1106. The I2C interface does not need level conversion
as the microcontroller only needs to pull the I2C control
lines down to GND; the module’s onboard pull-ups bring
them back up to 3.3V when the micro releases them.
IC1 initialises MOD1 during its startup sequence and
continues to update it to display the information that is
needed. There are two main screens; one has the speed,
time, current volume and GPS signal status. The second
screen shows some settings which can be changed.
The one remaining pin on IC1 is an analog input and
has been broken out to a three pin header, CON5. This
can be used to adjust the display brightness manually using a trimpot.
But you could instead connect a voltage divider comprising a fixed resistor and a light-dependent resistor (LDR) to
provide automatic brightness control.
Microcontroller IC1 is configured with an internal timer
(Timer1) which triggers an interrupt around 22 times per
second. This is used to smoothly ramp the volume as well
as keep a check on how long it has been since a valid GPS
sentence has been received. This prevents stale data from
72
Silicon Chip
There are various generic OLED modules available in different sizes; we are using a 1.3in variant, although 0.96in
versions are also available with a similar I2C interface.
Some OLED modules have a different pinout to the one
we used, so check this when you are ordering yours. Ours
has four pins, which are from left to right: GND, VCC, SCL
and SDA.
Some OLED modules also use the SSD1306 display controller, which uses a superset of the commands used by the
SH1106. The software has been designed to be compatible
with both display controllers.
Construction
Use the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.3, and matching photo, as a guide to assembling the board. The project is built
on a double-sided PCB coded 01104191 which measures
92mm x 69mm. As mentioned earlier, it is housed in a custom-made acrylic case which results in a compact package,
only about 20mm thick.
The most challenging part to solder is the SMD mini-USB
socket, so if you plan to use this, solder this first. Locate
the socket using the lugs on its underside and tack one of
the mounting tabs in place.
Check that the two power pins are correctly aligned and
then solder them to their pads. We have made the solder
mask openings slightly larger so that you don’t need to get
your iron in so close (which would risk bridging the pins).
It’s not necessary to solder the middle two data pins,
which are unused, but if you do bridge them, you should
clean them up anyway just in case.
Then solder the remainder of the mechanical pins on
the socket. Next, fit the resistors as shown in Fig.3. All resistors are mounted flat against the PCB. Follow with diode D1, which must be orientated with its cathode stripe
aligned as shown.
The four components of the laser-cut acrylic case. We’ve
made the matte side the outside to minimise reflections.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
As you continue construction, keep in mind
that the front panel will be mounted around
10.5mm above the top of the PCB, so taller components (eg, electrolytic capacitors) need to be
laid on their sides. As you proceed with assembly, check that all components are mounted flush
so that they aren’t higher than necessary.
Fit the three ICs next. Although you could
use sockets, we would not recommend them for
IC2 and IC3, as they may affect the audio signal integrity. Make sure the ICs are orientated as
shown in Fig.3.
REG1 is mounted with its tab against the PCB.
We suggest that you attach it to the board using a
machine screw and nut before soldering its pins.
Due to minimal clearance behind the PCB, put
the head of the screw behind the PCB and attach
the nut from above. Note that REG1 and D1 can
be omitted if you don’t plan to run the unit from
a 12V supply.
Next, fit the MKT and ceramic capacitors where
shown, followed by the electrolytic capacitors,
which must be laid over for the case to fit later.
Only the electrolytic capacitors are polarised.
Make sure that the longer leads go into the pads
marked “+” on the PCB.
Now mount 3.5mm sockets CON2 and CON3.
Some types can be quite a firm fit on the PCB,
so check that they are pushed all the way down
before soldering their pins. They are keyed and
will only fit one way.
Next install CON4, the ICSP header. If you have
a pre-programmed PIC or can program the PIC before installation, you can leave it off. We suggest
using a right-angle header, but a typical straight
header is only 9mm tall and so should also fit.
Then attach the connector for the GPS module (CON7). We used a right-angle male header
and interfaced to the GPS module using jumper
wires so that we could easily detach it. We then
wrapped the GPS module in heatshrink so that
it can be placed in a spot that has a good view
of the sky. You could solder wires from the GPS
module directly to CON7 if you prefer.
If you’re fitting a multi-turn trimpot for manual
Fig.3: use this PCB overlay diagram and photo as a guide when
screen brightness adjustment, bend its leads by
building the GPS Volume Control. All the taller components, except
90° and solder it to the pads for CON5. Although
switches S1-S3, need to be mounted on their side to clear the front
it will overhang the PCB, the case is large enough
panel. Rather than fitting connectors for CON1 and CON7, you can
to protect it.
solder wires directly to the PCB. Note the added multi-turn trimpot
To use an LDR for automatic brightness control,
and LDR for brightness control; you could leave the LDR off or use an
we suggest that you fit a 1Mmulti-turn trimpot
LDR and a fixed resistor.
instead, then solder a 10k LDR between the
being bumped, and apart from the initial setup, they only
middle pin and the one marked “5V”. Later, when you’re
need to be accessed when daylight savings starts and ends.
putting the whole thing in a case, you can bend it so that
Alternatively, you could use switches that are 15mm
it will be exposed to ambient light.
tall and they will protrude around 2mm above the case.
This will still let you set the brightness for dark environ12mm tall switches will work too, leaving the switches
ments using the trimpot, but it will automatically increase
only slightly recessed.
the brightness when the ambient light level is higher.
Solder the switches to the PCB, ensuring that their botThe three tactile switches are the only components that
toms are flat against the PCB, so they point straight up.
protrude through the front panel, so you can access them
The final part to attach is the OLED module, MOD1. This
during use. We used switches that are 9mm long (from PCB
needs to be done last.
to tip), which means they are recessed and can only be
First, check that the pinout on the module matches that
pressed with a small screwdriver or pen. This avoids them
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 73
Once a fix has been obtained, the speed will be shown,
three “)” symbols will be displayed and the time will be
shown instead of dashes. The time may not be correct until the time zone is set.
You can also attach an audio source and test that audio
is being passed through undistorted. Even without a
GPS fix, an audio signal should make its way through
with approximately unity gain.
If everything works as noted, the unit is functional,
and you can complete its housing.
Case assembly
The completed unit inside its purpose-designed, lasercut acrylic case, obviously without the front case section.
CON6 (at left) is a 5V (USB) power input socket; it can also
be powered from the 12V DC car supply via CON1. The
CON7 header pins at right connect to the GPS receiver.
printed on the PCB. If it does not, you will have to remove
the four-pin header from the module and use short lengths
of hookup wire instead. You may wish to do this anyway,
as it will provide some flexibility in assembling the case.
Otherwise, you can just solder a four-way female header
to the PCB and plug the module directly into this header.
A regular 9mm-high header socket is probably too high,
but Altronics offer a low profile (5mm) female header, Cat
P5398.
If you are using a 12V supply, now is the time to fit the
accessory plug and lead. Fit the twin-core wire into the plug
and solder the other end of the wires to the pads on the
top left of the PCB, threading it through the adjacent hole
for strain relief and checking that the polarity is correct.
With the display module connected, the GPS Volume
Control is complete enough to test. If you used a blank PIC,
now is the time to program it, using the .hex file found on
the SILICON CHIP website.
Testing
At this point, we can check the basic functions of the
GPS Volume Control. Start by powering the unit up, either
from the 12V input (if REG1 and D1 have been fitted), or
from 5V via USB socket CON6.
The display should spring to life, probably showing
mostly blank space with “km/h” on the right. Below this
will be the volume bar graph set at its midpoint and, below that, the GPS status and a series of dashes. If there is
nothing on the display, turn the unit off, as there may be
a problem with its construction.
Some GPS modules can take up to 15 minutes to obtain a
fix from a cold start, so this display may remain for a while
until the GPS unit gets a fix. This can be improved by taking it outside to get a clearer view of the sky.
Even if a fix has not been obtained, you should see two
“)” symbols next to the GPS after a few seconds. If you
only see one, then the most likely cause is that the GPS
module is producing data at the wrong baud rate, or it has
been wired incorrectly.
74
Silicon Chip
We have designed the case so that the matte side of the
black front and back panels face outwards, avoiding reflections from the glossy side. Start assembling the case with
the back panel.
Feed four of the 10mm M3 machine screws through the
rear of the back panel, and secure with M3 Nylon nuts on
the other side of the panel. These nuts also act as spacers
to keep the PCB clear of the back panel.
If MOD1 has been attached to the PCB via a header socket,
unplug it at this stage. If it has been attached with wires,
fold it out of the way.
Insert the top and bottom panels of the case into the
slots on the rear panel, then thread the PCB over the screw
threads and secure it in place by threading the four 9mm
tapped spacers on top.
Now sandwich the OLED between the top of the spacers
and the back of the front panel. These are then secured by
another four 10mm M3 machine screws. We recommend
that you use black machine screws for the top to match
the top panel colour.
Available functions
On power-up, the main speed screen is shown, with
your current speed readout in large digits, with a choice
of km/h, mph or knots. Below the speed is a bar graph indicating the current volume, which defaults to mid-level
at startup.
Below the volume indication, the GPS status is shown
as the letters “GPS” followed
by up to three “)” symbols. One
means that serial data is being
received by IC1, two symbols
means that a correctly formed
GPS sentence has been detected, and three indicates that
satellite lock has occurred and
that the GPS data is valid.
At bottom right, the time is
shown in hh:mm:ss format. If
the GPS does not have a lock,
the speed and time displays
will be blank, and the volume
will not be adjusted.
Left and right edge-on views of
the unit in its assembled case.
Only four case panels are used
so that the connectors on either
side of the PCB can be accessed.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Parts list – GPS-Based
Speedo, Clock & Volume Control
Fig.4: audio volume varies with speed according to this graph.
Below the adjustable Bottom Speed, the Bottom Volume
is applied. As the speed increases above this, the volume
increases linearly until Top Volume is achieved at Top Speed.
At higher speeds, the Top Volume is maintained. The volume
slowly changes towards its target so that there are no sudden
changes in volume with sudden changes in speed.
Pressing the left-hand SEL button (S1) cycles through
the available settings and then back to the main screen.
The settings are: Top Speed, Top Volume, Bottom Speed,
Bottom Volume, Units, Time Zone and an option to save
the settings to flash memory.
Pressing the DOWN and UP buttons (S2 and S3) will
change the currently selected setting. For the speed and
volume settings, the values can be set between zero and
255. The speed units can be km/h, mph or kts for km/h,
mph or knots respectively.
The time zone offset is set in multiples of 15 minutes
from UTC. This is stored as an eight bit signed number, so
it can vary between -32:00 and +31:45, although -12:00 to
+14:00 is enough to cover the world’s current time zones.
The settings take effect immediately although saving to
flash (so that the settings are loaded when the device restarts) is done manually, by pressing the UP button when
the save option is selected. This avoids excessive wear and
tear on the flash memory.
The volume control works as follows. When the speed
is at or above Top Speed, the volume is set to Top Volume.
When the speed is at or below Bottom Speed, the volume is
On the underside, just four screws are used which hold
the PCB, OLED display and other case pieces in place. As
mentioned in the parts list, it might look better if the case
screws were black (but we didn’t have any on hand!).
siliconchip.com.au
1 double-sided PCB coded 01104191, 92mm x 69mm
1 GPS module with TTL NMEA output (eg, VK2828U7G5LF or
SKM53) [SILICON CHIP ONLNE SHOP Cat SC3362]
1 1.3in SH1106 or SSD1306-based OLED display module
(MOD1)
3 tactile pushbuttons with 9mm-15mm shafts (S1-S3)
2 stereo 3.5mm jack sockets (CON2, CON3) [Altronics P0094]
1 6-way right-angle male header (CON4, for programming
IC1 in-circuit; optional)
1 mini-USB socket (CON6; optional)
1 6-way right-angle male header (CON7)
1 set of laser-cut acrylic case panels
[SILICON CHIP ONLNE SHOP Cat SC4987]
9 M3 x 10mm machine screws (preferably black; one for
REG1, eight for case assembly)
1 M3 nut (for REG1)
4 M3 x 9mm tapped Nylon spacers
4 M3 Nylon nuts
1 length of twin core cable to suit installation (optional, for
12V supply)
1 fused vehicle accessory plug (1A fuse; optional, for 12V
supply) [Jaycar PP2001, Altronics P0658]
1 10k LDR (optional; see text)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F1455 microcontroller, programmed with
0110419A.HEX (IC1)
1 MCP4251-502 dual 5k digital potentiometer (IC2)
1 LMC6482 dual rail-to-rail op-amp (IC3) [Jaycar ZL3482]
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator (REG1)
1 1N5819 schottky diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 220µF 10V electrolytic
1 100µF 16V electrolytic
1 10µF 16V electrolytic
4 1µF multi-layer ceramic
3 100nF MKT
(code 100n, 0.1 or 104)
Resistors (all 1/4W metal film 1%)
2 100k (brown black yellow brown or brown black black orange brown)
4 22k (red red orange brown or red red black red brown)
8 10k (brown black orange brown or brown black black red brown)
2 5.1k (green brown red brown or green brown black brown brown)
3 1k
(brown black red brown or brown black black brown brown)
2 100 (brown black brown brown or brown black black black brown)
1 10k multi-turn vertical trimpot
set to Bottom Volume. In between Top Speed and Bottom
Speed, the volume is interpolated linearly. This is shown
in graphical format by Fig.4.
The Top Speed and Bottom Speed are always referred to
in terms of the currently set units. If you plan on driving at
more than 255km/h for extended periods, we suggest that
you switch the units to knots!
The speed display will read up to 999km/h, which should
be sufficient for most users. . .
Setting it up
Before proceeding with the setup, you will need to wire
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 75
TIME ZONE
REGION
Australian Western Time
Western Australia
Australian Central Western Time
Eucla
Australian Central Time
South Australia/NT
Australian Eastern Time
Tas/Vic/NSW/Qld
Lord Howe Time
Lord Howe Island
New Zealand Time
New Zealand
Chatham Island Time
Chatham Islands
OFFSET
+8:00
+8:45
+9:30
+10:00
+10:30
+12:00
+12:45
change in ambient noise from zero to 30km/h.
We also recommend leaving the Bottom Volume value around 128. This means that the GPS
Volume Control does not make any volume adjustments at low speeds. You can then adjust the
volume of your source or amplifier so that the
overall volume through the speakers is satisfactory when stopped.
Now you can adjust the Top Volume, and we
recommend having a second person in the car
to adjust this while moving, so the driver is not
distracted.
You could start with a value of say 192, giving a roughly
50% increase perceived volume at the Top Speed. As you
are driving, once you have reached or exceeded your Top
Speed setting, wait a little time for the unit to ramp up to
its maximum volume setting. It takes the unit around 11
seconds to go from zero to 255, so it should not take much
more than five seconds to reach maximum volume.
On the main screen, you can check the bar graph to confirm that the volume has settled where expected.
Take note of whether the audio while moving at this
speed level is too loud, too quiet or just right. If it was too
loud or too quiet, you can pull over later and make an adjustment (or get your passenger to do it for you).
Repeat until you are satisfied, then save the settings to
flash.
Note that you may need to adjust the Bottom Volume
value below 128 to give more range if you find you have
set the Top Volume value to 255 and you would prefer it
SC
to be higher.
DST OFFSET
No DST
No DST
+10:30
+11:00
+11:00
+13:00
+13:45
Time zone offsets for the Australia and New Zealand area.
the GPS Volume Control into your vehicle audio system,
as described above. You can then power up the unit and
press the leftmost button (S1, “SEL”) to go to the settings
page. By default, all volume settings are 128, so the audio
volume will not change.
All volume values are between 0 (off) and 255 (approximately double the incoming volume).
Continue to press SEL until you get to the Units setting,
then use the DOWN or UP buttons to select your desired
speed unit: kph, mph or kts. Use a similar procedure to set
your time zone; see Table 1 above for the appropriate time
zone offsets for Australia and New Zealand areas.
All setting take effect immediately and you can scroll
down to “Save to FLASH” and press the UP button to store
these settings, so they are loaded the next time the GPS
Volume Control starts up.
We suggest setting the Top Speed value to between
80km/h and 110km/h, and the Bottom Speed to around
30km/h. In a typical passenger vehicle, there isn’t much
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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Digital Signal Processor . . . Two-way Active
Crossover . . . Eight-channel Parametric Equaliser . . .
IT’S ALL OF THESE...
and more!
We introduced our new, very versatile hifi stereo digital signal processor
(DSP) last month. As we said then, it is a monster project, built with seven
modules. Based around a powerful 32-bit PIC processor and high-quality
analog-to-digital (ADC) and digital-to-analog (DAC) converters, it can
be used as a two-way active crossover and/or a multi-band parametric
equaliser – and much more! In this second instalment, we finish describing
the circuit and present the parts list and board assembly instructions.
W
e rather left you hanging
at the end of the article last
month, because we didn’t
have room to describe all the circuitry
in this advanced device. We’ll rectify
that shortly, covering the CPU board
and some extra bits and pieces before
we get into the assembly of the various modules.
If you haven’t read the first article
in the May issue, we suggest that you
do so now, since this is a complex
and capable design. But let’s
just briefly revisit its
capabilities before
continuing the circuit description.
This device accepts a stereo line-level audio signal (from
a disc player, MP3 player,
smartphone etc . . . or even
[cough splutter!] a cassette deck or
turntable with preamp!) and converts
it to high-quality digital data.
It then sends it to a 32-bit processor
which processes the signal to split it
into high and low frequencies, apply
any necessary delays, gain and equali-
sation before feeding the results to two
hifi stereo DAC boards.
These convert the digital signals
back into two pairs of stereo signals
which can then be fed onto individual power amplifiers for the woofers
and tweeters.
It’s controlled using a graphical
LCD, rotary encoder and two pushbuttons and the configuration is stored in
an EEPROM chip, so you don’t have
to set it up each time.
For flexibility, It’s built using seven
distinct modules. Once you’ve assembled these, you can connect them together and test the system as a whole,
then start work on putting it all together in a proper case and integrating it
with a hifi system. But before we get
to that stage, we need to finish describing how it works.
So let’s get back to it.
Microcontroller board
The circuit of the microcontroller board is shown
in Fig.7. This is designed so
that it can be used in other
projects (just as you can the
ADC and DAC boards).
Microcontroller IC11 is a PIC32MZ2048 32-bit processor with 2MB
flash, 512KB RAM and which can run
at up to 252MHz. It has a USB interface
which is brought out to a micro typeB socket, CON6, although we haven’t
Part II – Design by Phil Prosser . . . Words by Nicholas Vinen
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 77
NOT USED IN THIS DSP CIRCUIT
*(PROVISION
MADE ON PCB FOR
POSSIBLE FUTURE EXPANSION)
*
*
*
78
Silicon Chip
*
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the CPU board is based around 252MHz/330MIPS 32-bit processor IC11, which performs all of the I/O and DSP
tasks internally. Besides connectors to go to the other components, the board carries serial EEPROM IC12, two crystals
and a power supply for the PIC. The graphical LCD is connected via CON8
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 79
The completed unit mounted in the two halves of an instrument case. An alternative would be a 2U rack-mounting case.
used it in this project – it’s there ‘just
in case’ for other projects.
The PIC is also fitted with an 8MHz
crystal for its main clock signal (X2).
Provision is made on the PCB (and
shown in the circuit) for a 32.768kHz
crystal for possible future expansion
but they are not used in this project
and can be left out.
There is also provision for an onboard serial flash (IC12) which is connected via one of the hardware SPI
ports.
Two of the other audio-capable SPI
ports are wired up to CON7, which
connects to CON17 on the power supply/signal routing board (described last
month), and therefore ultimately to the
ADC and DAC boards.
LK1 allows two different pins to be
used for SDO4 (serial data output #4);
this function can be internally reconfigured in IC11, and since some functions
are shared, there may be times where
you want to use the alternative pin.
CON11 on this board connects to
CON18 on the power supply/routing board and feeds the master clock
(MCLK) through to the ADC and DACs,
from output pin RE5 of IC11. As mentioned earlier, the other I/O pins connect to the front panel control board.
Its circuit is shown in Fig.8. It carries
two pushbutton switches and a rotary encoder, which are used to scroll
through menus and make selections.
The user interface is displayed on a
graphical LCD, which is wired up to
CON8 on the micro board, via a ribbon cable. This provides a reasonably
standard 8-bit parallel LCD drive interface. The eight LCD data lines (DB0DB7) are driven from a contiguous set
of digital outputs of IC11 (RB8-RB15).
This allows a byte of data to be trans80
Silicon Chip
ferred to the display with just a few
lines of code and minimal delay.
The other LCD control lines are
driven by digital outputs RB4, RB5,
RB6, RD5, RF4 and RF5 and the screen
is powered from the 5V rail, with
the backlight brightness set with a
47resistor. LCD contrast is adjusted
using trimpot VR1, which connects to
CON8 via LK2.
LK2 is provided so that VR1 can
also be used to set the contrast on an
alphanumeric LCD, which can be fitted in place of the graphical one and
controlled by same pins (via CON12).
But again, we are not using that in this
project. As we said above, this board is
intended to be generic, so it has a few
options we are not using.
CON23 is a somewhat unusual in-
circuit serial programming (ICSP)
header. It has a similar pinout to a PICkit 3/4 but not directly compatible; it’s
designed to work over a longer cable.
Since each signal line has at least one
ground wire between it, signal integrity should be better.
Jumper leads could be used to make
a quick connection to a PICkit to program the microcontroller the first time.
Or you could attach a 10-pin IDC connector to the end of a ribbon cable and
then solder the appropriate wires at the
other end of the cable to a 5-way SIL
header as a more permanent programming adaptor for development use.
There are two regulators on the
board; REG3 derives a 5V supply from
7V+ DC applied to CON5, which is
used to power the LCD screen and is
Fig.8: the front panel circuit is elementary. Two momentary pushbuttons and a
quadrature (incremental) rotary encoder to CON20, which is wired back to the
signal routing board and then onto the PIC32. Different combinations of resistors
R1-R4 are fitted so that the CPU knows what sort of signals to expect from the
rotary encoder. The two capacitors help to debounce the encoder’s digital outputs.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.9: the ADC board has components on both sides; SMDs on the bottom and
through-hole components on the top. Be careful with the polarity of the ICs,
REG1, D1-D13 and the electrolytic capacitors. Note that diodes D1-D12 do not
all face in the same direction...
also fed to CON7 and CON9. REG2 is
used to produce a +3.3V rail from the
same source (CON5), to power microcontroller IC11 itself.
However, note that in this project,
we’re not feeding power in via CON5.
Instead, the 5V supply comes from the
main power supply board over the ribbon cable to CON7. It then powers the
LCD screen and flows through schottky
diode D15 to the input of REG2, which
then powers REG2 and thus the 3.3V
rail for the micro.
We’re also not using the USB interface or USB connector CON6 in this
project, nor are we using the extra microcontroller I/O pins which are broken
out to headers CON9 or CON10. CON9
could potentially be used to connect another ADC and/or DAC board in other
applications where more channels may
be necessary (eg, a three-way crossover).
LED2 is connected from LCD data
line LCD0 to ground, with a 330 current limiting resistor, so it will flash
when the LCD screen is being updated.
Front panel board
The front panel circuit, Fig.8, was
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mentioned above. In addition to the
two pushbuttons and rotary encoder,
there are four 4.7k resistors shown,
but only two of these are actually fitted.
These resistors indicate to the CPU
board what type of rotary encoder has
been fitted and therefore how to interpret the data from it.
R3 and R4 are fitted when a standard gray code or ‘quadrature’ rotary
encoder, which is a standard encoding
method but not used by either of the
encoders we tested.
R1 and R4 are fitted when an encoder
is used which produces the same quadrature signals but it goes through one
complete (four-pulse) cycle for each
step that the encoder is rotated (ie, 11
-> 10 -> 00 -> 01 -> 11 clockwise or 11
-> 01 -> 00 -> 10 -> 11 anti-clockwise).
This is the code that the Altronics
S3350 rotary encoder produces.
R2 and R3 are fitted for an encoder
which produces three state changes per
click (11 -> 10 -> 00 -> 11 clockwise or
11 -> 01 -> 00 -> 11 anti-clockwise).
This is the code that the Jaycar SR1230
rotary encoder produces. If this encoder
is used, pushbutton S1 does not need
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... and here’s the underside photo to
assist you with construction (the top
side was shown last month). The use of
IC sockets is optional but highly recommended – just in case, just in case!
to be fitted as the encoder has an internal pushbutton, activated by pressing in the knob, which is connected in
parallel with S2.
The two 22nF capacitors help to debounce the signals from the rotary encoder, to ensure that it works reliably.
Debouncing is also performed in software, but it helps to have the hardware
to reduce glitches at the digital inputs.
The PCB has two different mounting
locations for the two possible rotary encoders, because the Jaycar SR1230 is a
vertical type while Altronics S3350 is
right-angle mounting.
Therefore, if using the Altronics encoder, you would either need to chassis-mount the pushbuttons and wire
them back to the board, or surfacemount the encoder on the board so that
it is vertical (more on that later).
Construction
Start by assembling the PCBs. We’ll
do that in the same order that we presented the circuit, starting with the
ADC board. This is built on a PCB
coded 01106191, measuring 55.5 x
102mm. The overlay diagrams for this
June 2019 81
board are shown in Fig.9.
It has parts on both sides - SMDs on
the bottom and through-hole on the
top, so both sides are shown in Fig.9.
It’s best to fit all the SMD parts to the
underside first, starting with IC1. This
is the only fine-pitch part on the board.
It comes in a 24-pin TSSOP package.
First, identify the pin 1 dot printed on
its top surface and orientate the part
so that dot is towards the nearby DIL
header as shown. Then put a little
solder on one of the corner pads and
heat that solder while sliding the chip
into position.
Use a magnifier to check that all
the pins on both sides are correctly
lined up with their pads. If not, reheat the solder on that one pin and
gently nudge the IC ever so slightly
in the right direction. Repeat until it
is properly lined up, then tack down
the pin in the opposite corner.
Next, spread a thin smear of flux
paste over all the pins, then load your
soldering iron tip with a little solder
and run it along the pins on one side.
Stop and add more solder if you are
running out and repeat until there is
enough solder on all pins. Don’t worry
if some are bridged; we’ll clean that up
later. Repeat for the other side.
Now add more flux paste to any areas where you suspect there may be
bridges and apply some solder wick.
Wait for the flux to smoke and the
solder to reflow into the wick before
sliding it away from the IC. Repeat for
any suspected bridges, then clean that
area of the board using flux residue
remover, isopropyl alcohol or methylated spirits and inspect it under
magnification.
Again using a magnifier, make sure
there is solder from each pin to the
pad below and that none are bridged.
Add a little flux and then a dab of
solder to any pins which do not appear to be soldered properly. Use the
procedure described above to remove
any bridges. Clean and re-inspect until you are happy that all the solder
joints are good.
Now move on to REG1, which has
much bigger and more widely spaced
pins. Use a similar procedure to solder
it in place, again ensuring that its pin
1 dot is orientated correctly, ie, on the
side facing the DIL header.
Now move onto the SMD resistors
and capacitors. You can use a similar
procedure – load one pad with a little solder, slide the part in place while
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Silicon Chip
heating that solder, check its orientation, then wait for the first joint to solidify and solder the opposite side of
the part to its pad. Add a dab of flux
paste to the first pad and touch it with
your soldering iron to reflow that joint
and ensure it is nice and smooth.
Note that some capacitors are specified as C0G/NP0 types. These are important to obtain good audio quality as
they are far more linear than X5R, X7R
or Y5V dielectrics. Similarly, some resistors are thin film types (as opposed
to the cheaper thick film types). Again,
these are more linear and will give better audio performance. In both cases,
fit them where shown in Fig.9.
Through-hole components
Now flip the board over and start
fitting the axial through-hole components, starting with the three resistors,
then the 13 diodes. Be careful that the
diode cathode stripes face as shown in
Fig.9, noting that many of them face
in different directions, and make sure
D13 is the larger type.
Follow with the ferrite beads; if
yours are just loose beads, feed diode
lead off-cuts through them and then
bend them to suit the
pad spacings and solder them in place.
Figs.10a (left) and 10b (right): unlike the ADC board, this DAC board has
a mixture of through-hole and SMD components on the top side, and no
components on the bottom side. The version at the left is what’s required for
this project; the version at right has optional volume control IC10 fitted.
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siliconchip.com.au
Next, solder the IC sockets in place
and make sure they are orientated as
shown. You could solder the ICs directly to the board, which would give
better long-term reliability, but that
would make it harder to swap the chips
over in future if you needed to do that.
Now fit the ceramic capacitors. The
100nF multi-layer types are shown
in blue in Fig.9 while the others are
shown in yellow. Follow with the
electrolytic capacitors, ensuring that
in each case, the longer lead goes
through the pad marked with a “+”
symbol. You may need to bend the
leads in some cases to match the hole
spacings on the PCB.
Next mount the headers for CON2
and JP1-JP4. You can snap these from a
longer dual-row pin header strip. Make
sure they have been pushed down fully
before soldering the pins.
We soldered the clipping LED
(LED1) directly to the board but you
could fit a 2-pin header instead, and
run leads to a front panel clip indicator LED. Either way, the longer anode
lead should be connected to the pad
marked “A” on the PCB.
The last part soldered to the board
is CON1, the dual vertical RCA socket.
We found that we had to use a 2.5mm
drill bit, turned by hand, to slightly
elongate the holes for the plastic posts
before it would fit into the board. This
has the advantage (compared to specifying larger holes on the PCB), of ensuring a very tight fit which provides
good mechanical anchoring for the
sockets.
Once you’ve pushed the sockets into
their mounting holes (be careful not
to break the plastic!), solder the three
pins. You can then plug op amps IC2IC5 into their sockets, and shorting
blocks JP1-JP4 into position, and this
board is complete.
Moving on to the DAC board
Two identical stereo DAC boards are
required to provide the four audio outputs in this project. You can assemble
them one at a time or in parallel. The
overlay diagram for this PCB is shown
in Fig.10(a).
It’s another double-sided board,
coded 01106192 and measuring 55 x
101mm.
This time, there are no components
on the bottom side, but there is a mixture of SMD and through-hole components on the top. The version on
the right, Fig.10(b), shows IC10 and
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Fig.11: the power supply and signal routing
PCB. There are no SMDs on this board. REG4,
REG6, REG7 and REG8 all require
flag heatsinks.
Although they are
not shown in this
diagram, they are
shown in the photo
at right. REG4 has the
highest dissipation
so fit a larger
heatsink to it, if
possible. Also
note the
various test
points.
its associated components fitted. But
those are not required for this project,
so build the version at left.
Once again, start by fitting the sole
fine-pitch IC to the board. IC6 is in a
28-pin TSSOP package. Use the same
procedure as described above, for IC1
on the ADC board.
Then solder all the SMD resistors
and capacitors, again using the same
procedure as before.
Note that all the SMD capacitors
with values below 100nF should be
C0G types and many of the resistors
are thin film types, again for linearity,
to provide low distortion.
The two 0resistors are soldered
across pads 9 & 11 and 14 & 16 of
IC10’s footprint, so that the audio bypasses this chip and goes straight to
the output.
Be careful to avoid shorting these
pins to pins 10 and 15 in between, as
those connect to ground, so you won’t
get any output on that channel if there
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is a solder bridge.
You can now fit the through-hole
axial components, ie, the remaining resistors and the ferrite beads, followed
by the IC sockets for IC7-IC9. Be careful with the orientation of these sockets as they don’t all face in the same
direction.
Next, mount the single throughhole ceramic capacitor, followed by
the electrolytics, again taking care to
ensure that the longer leads go to the
pads marked “+”. Then fit DIL header
CON3, followed by dual RCA socket
CON4. Again, you will probably have
to slightly enlarge the bigger PCB
mounting holes to get the socket to fit
into the board.
Plug the op amps into the sockets,
making sure each pin 1 dot lines up
with the notch in the socket (check
June 2019 83
Fig.12: the CPU board uses mostly SMD
parts, but there are also some throughhole parts and connectors, all on the
top side. Note the orientation of IC12,
IC13 and MELF diodes D14-D16.
The jumpers for LK1, LK2 and JP5
are shown in their normal operating
positions for this project.
Fig.10 if you’re unsure) and the DAC
boards are finished.
You can then move onto the power
supply and signal routing board.
Power supply board assembly
There are no SMDs on this board.
It’s built on a double-sided PCB coded 01106194 which measures 103.5 x
84mm.
Overlay diagram Fig.11 shows
where the components go.
Start by fitting the resistors as
shown, then the diodes, which are all
1N4004 types. But they face in different directions, so check carefully to
make sure the cathode stripes are orientated as shown in Fig.11.
You can then mount the ferrite
beads, as before, using component lead
off-cuts if they do not have their own
leads. You can also use a component
84
Silicon Chip
lead off-cut instead of the 0resistor.
Then fit the pin headers, ensuring that each one is pushed down
fully before soldering. As mentioned
earlier, these can be snapped from
longer dual-row headers, as long as
they are snappable types. Follow
with the ceramic capacitors, then
the electrolytic capacitors. In each
case, the longer lead goes into the
pad marked with a “+” sign.
Now solder the four fuse clips in
place, with the fuses clipped into
each pair to ensure that the retaining tabs are on the outside and that
they line up properly.
Ideally, use a blown fuse while soldering and then replace it with the
specified fuse once the clips have
cooled down. You will a need quite
hot iron to get the solder to flow well,
and use a generous amount.
Next, dovetail the two 2-way terminal blocks together (if you don’t
have a 4-way block) and solder it
with the wire entry holes facing the
edge of the board.
Before fitting the regulators, consider how you are going to mount the
heatsinks. We used 6021-type flag
heatsinks but mounted them upsidedown to avoid fouling components
around the regulators, because we
had pushed the TO-220 packages all
the way down before soldering them.
We think that this will also reduce
temperatures on the board, because
it keeps the fins away from the board,
and allows cooling air to more easily circulate.
But if you want to fit flag heatsinks ‘right-way-up’, you could do
so by fitting them to the regulators
first before pushing them down, then
lifting them slightly before soldering
the leads.
Note that REG4, which supplies 5V
to the CPU board and for the LCD, has
quite high dissipation.
If you can fit a bigger heatsink
than specified to this regulator, that
would be even better. But the 6021type should be adequate. REG5 does
not need a heatsink as its dissipation
is quite low.
Having sorted out the heatsinking,
fit the five regulators. REG7 is the
LM337 negative type; the other four
are all LM317s, so don’t get them
mixed up.
Once the regulators and heatsinks
are installed, the power supply board
is finished and you can move onto
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the last major board, which hosts the
main CPU.
CPU board assembly
This board is smaller and has mostly
SMD components. It’s built on a double-sided PCB coded 01106193 which
measures 60.5 x 62.5mm. Fig.12 shows
where the components go.
Start with the CPU, IC11, which is
in a 64-pin quad flat pack. Its pin pitch
is slightly larger than the TSSOPs but
it has pins on all four sides. Use the
same basic technique, but make sure
that the pins on all four sides are properly lined up on their pads before soldering more than one pin. Follow with
IC12, an 8-pin SOIC package device,
which is a much simpler affair.
Then move onto the SMD capacitors and resistors, followed by LED2.
SMD LEDs typically have a green dot
or marking to indicate the cathode, and
this is on the opposite side from the
anode, which goes to the pad marked
“A” on the PCB. But it’s best to check
the LED with a DMM set to diode test
mode before soldering it. If it lights up,
the red probe is on the anode.
Next, fit SMD diodes D14-D16.
These are schottky diodes in a MELF
cylindrical package. We used “SMA”
(DO-214AC) package diodes on our
prototype, but they barely fit on the
provided pads and are much trickier
to solder. The MELF diodes will be
much easier. Like through-hole diodes,
they have a stripe at the cathode end
and this must be orientated as shown
in Fig.12.
Now you can solder ferrite bead
FB12 in place, followed by pin headers CON7-CON11 and CON23. There
is no need to fit a header for CON12.
You can also now fit the pin headers
for LK1, LK2 and JP5, followed by
optional screw terminal block CON5,
with its wire entry holes towards the
nearest edge of the board.
Next, mount crystals X1 and X2,
taking care to avoid putting too much
stress on the leads as they are relatively thin. Gently bend them to fit the
pad spacings.
If using a large (HC-49 style) crystal for X2, fit an insulating washer underneath it so that its metal can won’t
short on any of the components below,
since the leads may not be stiff enough
to hold it firmly in place without resting on them.
You can then install trimpot VR1,
with its adjustment screw positioned
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as shown, followed by the electrolytic
capacitors, with their longer leads to
the pads marked “+”.
Solder REG2 & REG3 in place, with
the metal tabs orientated as shown.
Don’t get them mixed up as they are
different types - REG3 is a standard
LM317 adjustable regulator while
REG2 is a special low-dropout type.
Neither requires a heatsink.
Finally, insert the jumper shunts for
LK1, LK2 and JP5 as shown in Fig.12.
Front panel & LCD assembly
This board has just a few components and is fitted just behind the unit’s
front panel, next to the LCD, allowing
the rotary encoder shaft and pushbuttons to poke through holes drilled in
that panel. It’s built on a double-sided PCB measuring 107.5 x 32.5mm.
The PCB overlay diagram is shown
in Fig.13.
Start by fitting the resistors. Four are
shown in Fig.13, but only two are fitted, as shown on the circuit diagram,
Fig.8. For the Altronics S3350 rotary
encoder, fit R1 and R4. For the Jaycar
SP0721 encoder, fit R2 and R3.
Follow with the two 22nF capacitors, which should either be fitted to
the underside of the board, as shown
in Fig.13, or laid over on the top side
of the board, so they will clear the
front panel. Then solder the 10-pin
DIL header in place, on the underside
of the board.
That just leaves the rotary encoder
and pushbutton(s). As explained earlier, if you’re using the Jaycar rotary
encoder (or an equivalent), it has an
integral pushbutton, so you don’t need
to fit S2. You can still fit S2 if you want;
it will merely provide an alternative
way to use the SELECT function.
Also keep in mind that if you use
the Jaycar encoder, this board is then
mounted directly to the front panel
of the unit.
But if you fit the Altronics encoder in the usual manner, ie, with its
shaft parallel to the PCB, you would
need to mount it differently, and that
would probably require S1 and S2 to
be mounted directly on the front panel and wired back to this board (two
wires required for each).
To avoid that, you could bend RE2’s
three pins down and mount it vertically on the board, like RE1. You
would need to solder stiff wire to its
two mounting lugs, bend these over
Fig.14: the LCD adaptor is dead
simple and just connects pins 1-20 of
DIL header CON21, mounted on the
top side, to pins 1-20 of SIL header
CON22, on the other side of the board.
You could use a header socket for
CON22, but it will be more reliable if
you solder it to the LCD pin header.
under the board and attach them to
the mounting holes using a generous
amount of solder, to provide sufficient
mechanical strength.
Once RE1/RE2 and S1/S2 are in
place, this board is finished.
Building the LCD adaptor
The LCD has a 20-pin SIL header,
but it is connected to the CPU board
via a 10x2 pin DIL header and DIL IDC
connectors.
So we have designed a small adaptor board to make this a ‘plug and play’
affair. It’s coded 01106196, measures
51 x 13mm and shown in Fig.14. The
only parts on this board are the SIL
and DIL headers.
Most suitable LCD screens have a
20-pin header with pin 1 (Vss/GND) at
right (looking at the LCD screen with
the connector at the bottom) and pin
20 (K-) at left. If your screen has a different pinout then you will need to
come up with a different connecting
arrangement.
Start by soldering a 20-pin SIL
header to the LCD, on the back of the
board (ie, the opposite side to the LCD
screen), with the longer pins projecting
out the back. Then solder the DIL pin
header to the top side of the adaptor
board, as shown in Fig.14.
You can then place this adaptor
board over the pin header sticking out
the back of the LCD, making sure that
its pin 1 at left lines up with pin 1 on
the LCD. Solder all 20 pins.
Making up the cables
Fig.13: the front panel PCB. Note that only one of RE1 (Jaycar SR1230)
or RE2 (Altronics S3350) is fitted and in the case where RE1 is used,
pushbutton S2 is redundant and may be left off. Also, if RE1 is fitted, fit
resistors R2 and R3; if RE2 is fitted, fit resistors R1 and R4.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
You will need seven interconnecting cables to complete the unit, and
they’re also handy to have for testing,
so let’s make them up now. These are
shown in Fig.15.
There are three 10-way cables, one
40cm long and two 15cm long; one
20-way cable, 30cm long; and three
26-way cables, 20cm, 30cm and 35cm
long. Cut each section of ribbon cable
to length, leaving around 5cm extra
June 2019 85
PARTS LISTS
Stereo ADC input board
1 double-sided PCB coded
01106191, 55.5 x 102mm
1 dual vertical RCA socket (CON1)
1 13x2 pin header (CON2)
4 8-pin DIL IC sockets (for IC2-IC5)
1 4x2 pin header (JP1-JP4)
4 jumper shunts (JP1-JP4)
6 ferrite beads (FB1-FB6)
Semiconductors
1 CS5361-KZZ or CS5381-KZZ
high-performance stereo ADC,
TSSOP-24 (IC1)
4 NE5532 dual low-noise op amps,
DIP-8 (IC2-IC5)
1 MC33375D-5.0R2G SMD lowdropout linear regulator, SOIC-8
(REG1)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
12 BAT85 schottky diodes (D1-D12)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D13)
Through-hole capacitors
3 220µF 10V electrolytic
6 47µF 25V electrolytic
2 22µF 50V electrolytic
4 10µF 50V electrolytic
1 1µF 50V electrolytic
10 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic
2 100pF C0G/NP0 ceramic
2 33pF C0G/NP0 ceramic
SMD capacitors (all 2012/0805 X7R
unless otherwise stated)
2 1µF 6.3V
5 100nF 50V
5 10nF 50V
2 2.7nF 50V C0G/NP0 5%
4 1nF 50V C0G/NP0 5%
Resistors (all SMD 2012/0805 1%
unless otherwise stated)
2 100kW through-hole 1/4W 1%
metal film
11 10kW
4 4.7kW thin film*
1 1kW
8 680W or 681W thin film*
4 91W thin film*
2 8.2W
1 5.1W through-hole 1/2W 1% or 5%
* eg, Yageo RT0805FRE07 or
RT0805FRE13 series
86
Silicon Chip
Stereo DAC output board
(per board, two required)
1 double-sided PCB coded
01106192, 55 x 101mm
1 13x2 pin header (CON3)
1 dual vertical RCA socket (CON4)
3 8-pin DIL IC sockets (for IC7-IC9)
4 ferrite beads (FB7-FB10)
Semiconductors
1 CS4398-CZZ high-performance
stereo DAC, TSSOP-28 (IC6)
3 LM4562 dual ultra-low-distortion
op amps, DIP-8 (IC7-IC9)
1 PGA2320IDW stereo volume
control chip, SOIC-16 (IC10;
optional - see text)
Through-hole capacitors
11 100µF 16V electrolytic
1 33µF 25V electrolytic
2 22µF 50V electrolytic
2 10µF 50V electrolytic
1 3.3µF 50V electrolytic
1 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic
SMD capacitors (all 2012/0805 50V
ceramic)
12 100nF X7R
4 22nF C0G/NP0 5%
4 10nF C0G/NP0 5%
4 1.5nF C0G/NP0 5%
4 1nF C0G/NP0 5%
Resistors (all SMD 2012/0805 1%
unless otherwise stated)
2 10kW through-hole 1/4W 1%
metal film
5 100kW
5 10kW
4 2.4kW or 2.43kW thin film*
3 1kW
4 750W thin film*
4 620W thin film*
4 560W thin film*
4 240W thin film*
6 10W through-hole 1/4W 1% metal
film
2 0W
* eg, Yageo RT0805FRE07 or
RT0805FRE13 series
Extra parts needed if IC10 is fitted
1 ferrite bead (FB11)
1 1µF 50V electrolytic capacitor
3 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic
through-hole capacitors
1 100kW SMD 2012/0805 1% resistor
2 10kW SMD 2012/0805 1% resistors
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CPU board
1 double-sided PCB coded
01106193, 60.5 x 62.5mm
1 2-way mini terminal block, 5.08mm
spacing (CON5; optional)
5 5x2 pin headers (CON7,CON9CON11,CON23)
1 10x2 pin header (CON8)
2 3-pin headers (LK1,LK2)
1 2-pin header (JP5)
3 shorting blocks (LK1,LK2,JP5)
1 ferrite bead (FB12)
1 32768Hz watch crystal (X1)
1 miniature 8MHz crystal (X2) OR
1 standard 8MHz crystal with
insulating washer (X2)
1 10kW vertical trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MZ2048EFH064-250I/PT 32-bit
microcontroller programmed with
0110619A.HEX, TQFP-64 (IC11)
1 25AA256-I/SN 32KB I2C EEPROM,
SOIC-8 (IC12)
1 LD1117V adjustable 800mA lowdropout regulator, TO-220 (REG2)
1 LM317T adjustable 1A regulator,
TO-220 (REG3)
1 blue SMD LED, SMA or SMB (LED2)
3 LL5819 SMD 1A 40V schottky
diodes, MELF (MLB) (D14-D16)
Capacitors
1 470µF 10V electrolytic
5 10µF 50V electrolytic
11 100nF SMD 2012/0805 50V X7R
4 20pF SMD 2012/0805 50V C0G/NP0
Resistors (all SMD 2012/0805 1%)
1 10kW
1 1.2kW 2 1kW
2 470W
1 560W
1 390W
2 330W
1 100W
3 47W
Front panel interface
1 double-sided PCB coded
01106195, 107.5 x 32.5mm
1 5x2 pin header (CON20)
2 4.7kW 1/4W through-hole resistors
2 22nF through-hole ceramic
capacitors
2 PCB-mount snap-action
momentary pushbuttons
(S1,S2)* [Jaycar SP0721,
Altronics S1096]
1 3-pin rotary encoder (RE1/RE2) [eg,
Altronics S3350 or Jaycar SR1230
with integrated pushbutton]
1 knob (to suit RE1/RE2)
* only one required if using Jaycar
SR1230 encoder
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Power supply/routing
board
1 double-sided PCB coded
01106194, 103.5 x 84mm
4 M205 fuse clips (F1,F2)
2 5A M205 fast-blow fuses (F1,F2)
3 ferrite beads (FB13-FB15)
2 2-way terminal blocks, 5.08mm
pitch (CON13)
3 13x2 pin headers (CON14-CON16)
3 5x2 pin headers (CON17-CON19)
4 6021 type mini-U TO-220 heatsinks
(for REG4 & REG6-REG8) [Jaycar
HH8504, Altronics H0635]
Semiconductors
4 LM317T adjustable 1A regulators,
TO-220 (REG4-REG6,REG8)
1 LM337T adjustable -1A regulator,
TO-220 (REG7)
14 1N4004 400V 1A diodes
(D17-D30)
Capacitors
2 470µF 16V electrolytic
7 47uF 25V electrolytic
2 10uF 50V electrolytic
6 100nF 50V through-hole multilayer ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W 1% metal film)
2 1.5kW
2 1kW
1 560W
3 330W
2 220W
LCD assembly
1 128 x 64 pixel graphical LCD with
20-pin connector
1 double-sided PCB, coded
01106196, 51 x 13mm
1 10x2 pin header
1 20-pin header
Chassis parts,
connecting cables etc
1 2U rackmount case or similar
1 M205 ‘extra safe’ fuseholder
1 1A slow-blow M205 fuse
1 5A 250VAC DPST or DPDT switch
28 9mm long M3 tapped spacers
56 M3 x 5mm black panhead
machine screws
3 No.2 x 6mm self-tapping screws
1 1m length of 26-way ribbon cable#
1 30cm length of 20-way ribbon cable#
1 1m length of 10-way ribbon cable#
6 26-pin IDC line plugs
2 20-pin IDC line plugs
6 10-pin IDC line plugs
1 1m length 10mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
10 small cable ties
4 instrument feet with mounting
screws
# or 1.3m length 26-way(+) ribbon
cable
in each case for crimping to the connectors.
You can strip these cables out of ribbon cables with more wires, by making a small cut between two wires and
then separating the sections by pulling them apart.
It’s best to use a dedicated IDC
crimping tool for this job, such as Altronics T1540. You can use a vice, but
you have to be careful to avoid crushing and breaking the plastic IDC connectors.
Each connector has three parts:
the bottom part, which has the metal
blades that cut into the ribbon cable;
the middle part, which clamps the
cable down onto these; and a locking
bar at the top that holds it all together
once it has been crimped.
Note how, as shown in Fig.15, the
cable passes between the locking bar
and upper part before folding over
on the outside edge and then being
crimped underneath.
So with this in mind, slightly separate the three pieces without actually
taking them apart, and feed the ribbon cable through as shown. Ensure
there is enough “meat” for the metal
blades to cut into, then place it into
your crimping tool or vice without allowing the cable to fall out. Clamp the
three pieces together, gently at first,
then more firmly.
The trick is to crimp it hard enough
to ensure that the blades cut fully
through the insulation and make good
contact with the copper wires, without pressing so hard that you break
the plastic.
If using a vice, it’s best to wedge a
piece of cardboard between each end
of the connector and the vice, to provide some cushioning.
Once you’ve crimped a connector
at one end of the cable, do the one at
the other end, making sure that when
you’re finished, the locating spigots
will both be facing in the same direction – see Fig.15. Then repeat this
procedure for all the other cables that
are required.
Next month
Fig.15: here’s how to make up the seven ribbon cables required to connect the
various boards together. Three ten-way cables are required in two different
lengths, plus one 20-way cable and three 26-way cables, each a different length.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
The final article in this series will
cover testing all of these assembled
boards, programming the microcontroller and putting it all together in
its case.
We’ll also have some performance
measurements and instructions for using the finished unit.
sc
June 2019 87
Using Cheap Asian Electronic Modules by Jim Rowe
434MHz LoRa
Transceivers
This month we’re looking at two LoRa
modules based on the SX1278, a
complete wireless data modem/
transceiver capable of data rates
up to 300kbit over modest distances
in the 434MHz band. These can be
controlled from a micro using an SPI
or UART serial interface.
C
onnecting a couple of computers,
Arduinos, Micromites or other
micros via a UHF wireless data link
is easy if you use a pair of low-cost
modules based on the SX1278 ultralow-power LoRa modem/transceiver
chip. The SX1278 is made by Semtech
Corporation of Camarillo, Southern
California, which acquired the patented LoRa technology from French
firm Cycleo in 2012.
The name “LoRa” is a contraction
of “Long Range”. It is a wireless technology developed to enable low power wide-area networks (LPWANs) for
machine-to-machine (M2M) and Internet of Things (IoT) applications.
The exact details of the technology
are proprietary and closed, but it’s
apparently based on spread-spectrum
modulation.
The SX1278 is designed to operate
in the UHF spectrum between 410 and
525MHz. This makes it suitable for
use in the 433.05-434.79MHz ISM (Industrial, Scientific and Medical) band
which is available for license-free use
in most countries. In Australia, this is
called the LIPD (Low Interference Potential Devices) band.
The SX1278’s data sheet can be
found at siliconchip.com.au/link/aao3
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Note that in Australia, the maximum
transmitter power (EIRP – equivalent
isotropically radiated power) for unlicensed devices in the LIPD band is
25mW or +14dBm. Transceivers with
programmable output power will need
to be configured to stay under this limit
to remain legal.
There are two different SX1278based LoRa modules currently available. One is the RA-02, designed by
AI-THINKER, which is available from
Banggood (siliconchip.com.au/link/
aao7) and various other suppliers for
around $6.60 each. The other is the
E32-TTL-100 from eByte, also available from Banggood (siliconchip.com.
au/link/aao8) and other suppliers for
around $13.50 each.
So the RA-02 is around half the cost
of the E32-TTL-100, and as you can see
from the photos, it’s also much smaller
at just 16.5 x 16 x 3mm compared with
34 x 21 x 4mm for the E32-TTL-100,
not including its SMA RF connector
or its 7-pin SIL header. But the RA-02
has some disadvantages, too.
One of these is that the RA-02 module’s tiny PCB is designed to be surface-mounted on another PCB. So instead of providing a pair of 8-pin SIL
headers with standard 2.54mm pin
Australia’s electronics magazine
spacings for power and control, it has a
row of eight semicircular indentations
along each side, with each one gold
plated to allow soldering to matching
pads underneath.
The spacing of the indentations
is 2mm, so they do not line up with
pads on the common 2.54mm (0.1inch) grid.
Many constructors would therefore
want to solder the module to an adaptor PCB, to bring all of the connections
out to a pair of 8-pin SIL headers.
Another less attractive aspect of
the RA-02 module is that its RF output/input connector is the extremely
small U.FL-R-SMT coaxial type, with
an outer diameter of only 2mm.
You will need a matching U.FL-LP
plug to mate with it, which in most
cases, comes as part of a complete antenna/cable assembly. It would not be
easy to fit such a tiny plug to an existing cable.
So the RA-02 module is probably
best suited for use in commercial type
applications, especially those which
will be assembled using automated
pick-and-place equipment.
On the other hand, the E32-TTL-100
module is more suited for breadboarding, testing and manual assembly.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: block diagram of the SX1276-SX1279 range of LoRa ICs. Even though there’s an upper UHF front end shown in
cyan, the SX1278 only uses the lower band (yellow) from 137-525MHz.
The RF input/output is via an SMA
connector on one end of the module,
with all of the remaining connections
made via a seven-pin SIL header at the
other end.
While we will focus on using the
E32-TTL-100 module, we’ll still provide a quick rundown on using the
RA-02.
Since both modules are based on the
SX1278 chip, let’s start by looking at
the chip itself.
Inside the SX1278
Fig.1, the simplified block diagram,
shows what’s inside that compact (6 x
6mm) 28-pin QFN chip. Note that this
diagram covers all four of the different
devices in Semtech’s SX127X range,
not just the SX1278.
The SX1278 is a single-chip UHF
wireless data transceiver combined
with a data modem capable of modulating and demodulating LoRa spreadspectrum signals.
But it supports other kinds of modulation too, including FSK (frequencyshift keying), GFSK (Gaussian FSK),
MSK (minimum shift keying), GMSK
(Gaussian MSK) and OOK (on-off keying).
The term ‘Gaussian’ in GFSK and
GMSK signifies that the modulating
data is passed through a Gaussian filter to make the transitions smoother
siliconchip.com.au
before modulation. GFSK modulation
was the original type of modulation
used in Bluetooth, and is still used
in BR (basic rate) Bluetooth devices.
Fig.1 shows the SX1278’s SPI interface at far right, which allows it to be
fully configured by a microcontroller.
Although two separate UHF front
ends are shown at far left, one for HF
and one for LF, the SX1278 only uses
the LF front end as its specified frequency range is 137-525MHz. It can
be programmed for a spreading factor of 6-12.
So the main sections of Fig.1 which
are relevant to the SX1278 are the LF
front end at lower left, with its fractional-N PLL (phase-locked loop) driving
the two quadrature (I and Q) mixers,
plus both sections of the fancy modem
at top centre-right.
The modulator section is shown
tinted blue, while the demodulator
section is tinted orange.
The SX1278 can operate at data rates
up to 37.5kb/s, but in the 434MHz
LoRa modules, the maximum recommended rate is 9600 baud, or 2400
baud for maximum reliability.
The transmitter in the SX1278 has
a rated maximum power output of
100mW (+20dBm), but can be programmed to provide lower output
levels: +17dBm (50mW), +14dBm
(25mW) or +10dBm (10mW). For legal
Australia’s electronics magazine
use in Australia, the 25mW and 10mW
settings are possible.
Reception sensitivity of the SX1278’s
RF front end is rated at -148dBm,
which corresponds to about 10nV at
the input. As a result, SX1278-based
modules are often described as having a reliable communication range
of 3km.
However, this assumes that they are
set for an output power of 100mW,
have a 5dBi gain antenna, a clear lineof-sight path between them and are
operating at 2400 baud.
In Australia, with a maximum output power of 25mW (taking into account the antenna gain), this range
drops to around 1.5km. And remember
that this is for a clear line of sight path
with a high-gain antenna and a data
rate of 2400 baud. So in many cases,
you’ll be doing well to get a range of
1km, but that’s still quite useful.
Despite its internal complexity and
multiple functions, the chip is relatively economical in terms of power
consumption. Operating from a 3.3V
DC supply, it draws less than 100mA
in transmit mode (at the 100mW setting), less than 13mA in receive mode
and less than 2mA in standby mode.
eByte’s E32-TTL-100 module
As mentioned earlier, the E32TTL-100 has a UART/USART serial
June 2019 89
The E15-USB-T2 serial port adaptor module connects
to the E32-TTL-100 via a 7-pin female header and lets
you plug the module into a computer and program it
using software such as AccessPort.
interface. This is provided by an STMicro 8L151G 8-bit ultra-low-power
microcontroller that’s inside the 21 x
18 x 2.5mm shield on the top of the
PCB, along with the SX1278 chip.
The result is that it’s somewhat easier to program and use this module, as
we’ll see shortly.
We couldn’t find an internal circuit
diagram for the E32-TTL-100 module,
but there is a 14-page data sheet available for the module which describes
how to program and use it: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aao4
The simplest way to use the E32TTL-100 module is to hook it up directly to a PC via a CP2102-based USBto-UART bridge. eByte makes a custom
bridge module for this job, called the
E15-USB-T2 serial port adaptor.
Measuring just 26 x 20mm, this PCB
has a type-A USB plug at one end and
a 7-pin SIL socket in the centre, into
which the E32-TTL-100 module can
be plugged (see photo above).
The E15-USB-T2 adaptor module is
available from AliExpress, Alibaba and
other suppliers, for less than $3.50. It
has a 3.3V regulator on the underside
plus a 3-pin SIL header on the top to
allow you to select either 5V or 3.3V as
the supply for the E32-TTL-100 module using a jumper shunt.
You can find four page data sheet on
the E15-USB-T2 at www.cdebyte.com/
en/pdf-down.aspx?id=761
There’s also another pair of 2-pin
SIL headers with jumper shunts to allow the voltages on the E32-TTL-100
module’s M0 and M1 mode select
pins to be set to either logic high or
90
Silicon Chip
low. There’s even a pair of tiny SMD
LEDs, indicating its status. Fig.2 shows
how the E32-TTL-100 and E15-USBT2 modules connect together.
Note that if your PC doesn’t have a
VCP (virtual COM port) driver already
installed for CP2102 based bridges,
you’ll need to install one to use this device (Windows 10 usually has this preinstalled). This driver can be downloaded from the Silicon Labs website
(siliconchip.com.au/link/aalb).
You can then program the module and communicate via the LoRa
modules is by using a serial monitoring application like AccessPort 1.37.
This can be downloaded free from
https://accessport.en.lo4d.com/ Once
installed, it provides a very intuitive
way to either send or receive data to/
from the E32-TTL-100 module.
You can communicate using either
hexadecimal numbers or text characters; it’s best to use hex codes during
the initial set-up (with the M0 and M1
jumpers on the E15 bridge module unplugged), and then text characters for
normal airborne communication (with
the M0 and M1 jumpers fitted). Table 1
is a summary of the basic E32-TTL-100
set-up steps.
Once the module is set up, connect
a suitable antenna to the SMA socket
and then fit the M0 and M1 jumper
Fig.2: connection diagram for the E15-USB-T2 and E32-TTL-100 modules.
Attaching only jumper M1 puts the module into power-saving mode (closes
RXD), while only M0 starts wake-up mode (opens RXD).
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: connection diagram
for the E32 to an Arduino
Uno or similar.
shunts back to the E15 bridge module,
to switch the E32 module into Mode 0.
You need to do it in that order, because
the E32 module can be damaged if it’s
switched to Mode 0 before an antenna
is connected.
Selecting an antenna
If you’re not aiming for maximum
range, you could use one of the lowcost ‘rubber ducky’ antennas with an
integrated 90° SMA plug on the bottom, as shown in one of the photos. Go
for one of the longer ones if you can.
Alternatively, you could use one
of the longer ‘loaded whip’ antennas
fitted with a magnetic mounting base
and a 1.5m-long cable ending in an
SMA plug. These antennas are around
210mm long including the loading
coil, and are claimed to have an SWR
of less than 1.5 at 433MHz, together
with a gain of 3dBi.
However, this would not be legal to
use with the 25mW output power setting as it would exceed the unlicensed
EIRP limit. You could only use it with
the 10mW power setting, which would
reduce power consumption but also
give you shorter range than the 25mW
setting with a quarter-wave whip.
Loaded whip antennas are available from a few different suppliers on
the web, including Banggood, which
currently has them for about $5. Ensure you get one fitted with a stand-
ard SMA plug, not one with the more
common RP-SMA (reversed polarity)
plugs. The standard plug has a centre
pin to match the centre hole in the
module’s SMA socket.
Connecting it to an Arduino
Using the E32-TTL-100 module
with an Arduino Uno or similar is
fairly straightforward, as you can see
from Fig.3.
An LM1117T-3.3 regulator is used to
derive the module’s 3.3V supply from
the Arduino’s 5V line, because when
it’s transmitting, the module can draw
peak currents of over 100mA, which
is too much for the Arduino’s onboard
3.3V regulator.
Fig.4; connecting the E32 to a Micromite is nearly identical
to an Arduino except it doesn’t require two series 4.7kW
resistors on the RXD and TXD lines.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 91
Notice also that the module’s RXD
and TXD lines are connected to Arduino pins D11 and D10 via 4.7kW series
resistors, to prevent any voltage overswing problems.
In terms of software, you’ll find
Arduino libraries as well as self-contained sketches on sites like GitHub
(https://github.com/Bob0505/E32TTL-100). However, I ended up writing
my own self-contained sketch called
“Uno_sketch_for E32_TTL_100_LoRa_
module.ino”, which can be downloaded from the Silicon Chip website.
Using it with a Micromite
Connecting an E32-TTL-100 module up to a Micromite is again fairly
easy, using the connections shown
in Fig.4. Once again we’re using an
LM1117T-3.3 regulator to derive the
module’s 3.3V supply from the Micromite’s +5V line, for the same reason as
stated above.
We’re using a ‘software’ serial port
on the Micromite to communicate
with the module, to prevent any unforeseen interactions with the Micromite’s hardware (UART) serial port,
which is used to communicate with
the PC. That’s why the module’s RXD
and TXD lines connect to pins 9 and
10 of the Micromite, instead of to the
TX and RX pins.
I couldn’t find any pre-written Micromite programs to control and exchange data with the E32-TTL-100
module, so I had to write one. The resulting program is called “E32TTL100
LoRa module driving program.bas”,
and is available for download from
the Silicon Chip website.
Both programs are fairly simple.
They set up the E32-TTL-100 module
for legal use in Australia, then switch
it to Mode 0 for airborne data communications. It should provide a good
starting place for writing fancier programs of your own.
You’re not restricted to using this
program for LoRa communication between two Micromites. Since it sets
up the E32-TTL-100 module in precisely the same way as does the Arduino sketch (or the PC/USB/AccessPort approach, for that matter), all
three versions can communicate with
one another.
This means you can have a module
connected to a Micromite communicating with another connected to an
Arduino, or to another plugged into
the USB port of a computer.
See the E32-TTL-100 tutorial at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aao5
What about the RA-02 module?
As mentioned earlier, while the RA02 LoRa module (siliconchip.com.
au/link/aao6) is significantly lower
in price than the E32-TTL-100, it is
more difficult to solder and also needs
an antenna fitted with a tiny U.FL-P
connector. Also, you have to interface with the RA-02 via SPI as it does
not have an SPI/UART bridge like the
E32-TTL-100.
Regardless, use of the RA-02 with
an Arduino seems to be popular, and
you will find several Arduino libraries and sketches written to support it.
One popular Arduino library is written
by Sandeep Mistry: https://github.com/
sandeepmistry/arduino-LoRa
Before we could try out the RA-02
modules, we had to order some adaptor boards. The module is surface
mounted onto these adaptor boards,
and pin headers can then be soldered
along the edge, so it will plug into a
breadboard or another PCB using two
header sockets.
These adaptor boards are available
at low cost from AliExpress (www.
aliexpress.com/item//32825376146.
html). You can also purchase similar
Above: example screenshot of the output from AccessPort when connected to an
E32-TTL-100.
The RA-02 can be mounted onto a
simple SMD adaptor board so that it
can be easily attached to an Arduino etc.
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Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: connecting the RA-02 module to
an Arduino.
boards with the RA-02 module already
soldered to them (www.aliexpress.
com/item//32824507293.html).
We didn’t have any luck finding a
suitable 434MHz whip antenna already fitted with a cable ending in a
U.FL-P plug. But we were able to get
hold of a couple of adaptor cables with
an SMA socket on one end and a U.FLP plug on the other (www.aliexpress.
com/item//32467389771.html).
The adaptor cables are sold together with 800MHz whip antennas fitted
with an SMA plug, for around $1 each
(plus $7 delivery to Australia!). After
discarding the useless (to us) 800MHz
whip, we used these adaptor cables to
connect one of the ‘loaded whip’ antennas mentioned earlier to the RA-02
modules. Problem solved!
Fig.5 shows how to connect the
RA-02 to an Arduino Uno while Fig.6
shows the connections for a Micromite. The configuration shown in
Fig.5 suits Sandeep Mistry’s library;
you might need to change it if you’re
using a different library.
In both circuits, the RA-02 module
receives its 3.3V supply from a 3.3V
LDO regulator, fed from the micro’s 5V
output. Although the current drawn by
the RA-02 is significantly lower than
that of the E32-TTL-100, it still draws
enough when transmitting to cause
problems if powered directly from the
micro module’s 3.3V output.
With this arrangement, we made
two Arduinos communicate via RA02 modules using Sandeep Mistry’s
library. However, this does not work if
you replace one of the RA-02 modules
with an E32-TTL-100 module, even
when both have been set to operate at
434MHz. So you need to use the same
type of LoRa module at either end.
Our example sketch is named
“SCLoRaSend_and_Receive.ino” and
this is available for free downloading
from the Silicon Chip website.
We have also written a similar Micromite MMBasic program, called
“RA02 LoRa module checkout prog.
bas”, available on the Silicon Chip
website. Using this, we were able
to get two Micromites to communicate via RA-02 modules, and also exchange data between an Arduino and
a Micromite using two identical RASC
02 modules.
Fig.6: connection diagram for the RA-02
module to a Micromite. Again we’re using
an LM1117 to power the RA-02 because it
might draw more current than the Micromite’s
onboard regulator could possibly supply.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 93
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Touchscreen clock radio using a Micromite BackPack
Commercial clock radios are awful. The cheap ones can’t even keep
the time accurately. If you spend a
bit more, you get accurate time, and
may even get battery backup, but the
sound quality is still horrible and they
often don’t have basic features like
dimming.
They also use 1980s style 7-segment displays. You need to spend a
lot of money to get one with decent
sound quality.
This clock radio has very accurate
timekeeping, battery backup, temperature measurement, an FM stereo tuner
with a powerful stereo amplifier and
stereo speakers.
It has automatic dimming, eight
station presets and is very power-efficient. It features a colour touchscreen
with nice fonts for the clock, making
it easy to set the clock and program
the presets.
It is based around the Micromite
LCD BackPack V2, although I used the
original BackPack board and added the
new backlight circuitry.
The circuit is very simple because
it makes use of four modules that can
be cheaply purchased from eBay or
other similar sites.
The first one is an LM2596-based
DC-DC converter (MOD4). Initially, I
used a linear regulator, but the voltage
drop from 12V to 5V and the amount of
current required to drive the backlight
meant that it got very hot and wasted
a lot of energy.
These modules are available from the
Silicon Chip Online Shop (siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/7/4916). The module is
adjusted using the onboard trimpot to
give a 5V output.
The DS3231-based real-time clock
module (MOD2) is extremely accurate and has battery backup and an
internal temperature sensor that can
be read through the I2C bus.
This is the same module that was
used in the Silicon Chip Super Clock
project (July 2016 and updated in
July 2018) and described in the October 2016 “El Cheapo Modules” article
94
Silicon Chip
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10296).
The modules are designed to use a
rechargeable button cell and have a
built-in charger circuit. This is bad for
standard lithium batteries (CR2032),
so the resistor just above the SCL label should be removed. This module is available from the Silicon Chip
Online Shop (siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/7/3519).
The FM radio module (MOD3) is
based on a TEA5767 IC. It is a PLLtuned FM stereo receiver. It is very
small and difficult to solder, but this
can be made easy if a PCB is created
with 10 pads to suit the module. It is
also controlled using an I2C bus.
The stereo amplifier (MOD5) is quite
small but contains a stereo Class-D amplifier which can deliver about 10W
per channel. This seems like a lot of
power, but small speakers suited to
clock radios are really inefficient.
These two modules are available
from the Silicon Chip Online Shop
(siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/5024 &
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/5025)
The whole circuit is powered by
a 12V switchmode plugpack. Only
the amplifier module needs such a
high voltage, so the DC-DC converter
drops the voltage to 5V for the rest of
the circuit.
The 3.3V regulator on the BackPack
provides the 3.3V rail. To improve efficiency, the amplifier module is only
powered when required, so its 12V
power is switched by relay RLY1.
The FM radio module’s analog outputs are fed to the amplifier module
through a 4052 analog switch, IC1.
This allows the micro to feed multiple different sound sources to the amplifier: either from FM radio, a stereo
auxiliary input, the alarm sound from
the micro or no source.
Sounds are fed to the amplifier module via 100nF AC-coupling capacitors.
This relatively low value was deliberately chosen to limit the bass through
the amplifier. Small speakers can go a
lot louder if you don’t try to get them
to reproduce bass, and you don’t need
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heavy bass when you wake up in the
morning.
The amplifier output is fed into a
crossover network before going to the
speakers, to allow separate woofers and
tweeters to be used. I used Jaycar Cat
AS3034 3-inch woofers and some old
ribbon tweeters that I had, although
any small tweeter would be suitable.
The ambient light sensor is a light
dependent resistor (LDR1). I used Jaycar Cat RD3485, although others could
also be used. This forms a resistive divider with a 27kW fixed resistor and
the resulting voltage is fed to an analog
input on the BackPack module.
The software calculates an appropriate level of backlight brightness and
updates the PWM duty cycle on pin
26. On the V2 BackPack, this controls
the backlight brightness.
The Micromite has native support
for the real-time clock module but additional code has been added to read
the temperature. You can download
the MMBasic source code for this project from the Silicon Chip website.
I originally tried adding a Bluetooth
receiver to the circuit, but eventually
gave up. There are many cheap Bluetooth receivers available both locally
and from China that produce stereo
signals that can be connected to the
external input.
This circuit could be installed in
an old stereo radio cassette or clock
radio. I made a custom case from styrene, resulting in a very compact unit
that only uses a small amount of space
on a bedside table.
Dan Amos,
Macquarie Fields, NSW ($90).
siliconchip.com.au
R
i
- gh
+ t L
+ eft
-
12V DC
Mute
Power
Shown at
twice actual size
From left to right: DS3231 RTC (MOD2), TEA5767 FM receiver (MOD3), LM2596 DC-DC converter
(MOD4), PAM8610 Class-D stereo amp (MOD5). All these modules are available from the Silicon Chip Online Shop with
product codes SC3519, SC5024, SC4916 and SC5025 respectively.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 95
Two micros control an aircon with a single real-time clock module
Our lab has an air conditioner which
is needed to keep the computer equipment at a reasonable temperature during summer.
But if we simply use the thermostat,
it will run continuously on a summer’s
day and that is not required; we want
a lower duty cycle than that. So I decided to build an Arduino-based timer to switch it on and off based on the
time of day. But others in the lab want
to be able to see the time and date display from this timer and also get an
idea of when the air conditioner is to
be switched on and off.
96
Silicon Chip
I found that difficult to incorporate
into the timer software without interfering with the operation of the timer. So I used a second Arduino chip
to drive the display and it reads the
time and date out of the same realtime clock module.
So this project demonstrates how
a single RTC module can be shared
between multiple microcontrollers
which are doing different jobs. I didn’t
want to use two separate RTC modules
since there’s no guarantee that they
will not drift apart.
As the old adage goes, “a man with
Australia’s electronics magazine
one watch always knows what time
it is. A man with two watches is never sure.”
The circuit is based on a DS3231
real-time clock module, two Arduino
ATmega328 chips and two small 5V
DC coil relays which drive the 5kW
contactor that controls the air conditioner.
You can share the RTC module this
way because the ATmega328’s hardware I2C implementation supports
the “multi-master” bus mode, which
can handle the case when both devices want to use the bus at once – one
siliconchip.com.au
will wait for the other to finish before
it takes over the bus.
The SDA and SCL pins of both masters are merely connected in parallel,
and to the RTC module, and all the
chips share a common ground.
The rest of the circuit is pretty simple; the DS3231 real-time clock module, the two ATmega328 chips and the
128x128 screen for time display all run
from a shared 5V supply which is provided by a USB charger.
The LCD screen is driven by Ar-
duino MOD2 over an SPI bus on the
usual pins (D10, D11 and D13) plus a
reset control line from digital output
D9. Its backlight LED is powered directly from the 5V supply.
The D3 and D4 digital outputs of
microcontroller MOD1 drive two
NPN transistors which in turn, drive
the coils of 5V coil mains-rated relays which control the air conditioner contactor.
The D4 output is also fed to the A3
input of the lower Arduino module
Diode/transistor/Mosfet tester
This simple tester was devised to
check that components in my junk box
are still OK before I use them, using a
single test board.
The transistor/diode tester section
is based around hex inverter IC3. The
IC3b and IC3c sections form an astable
oscillator/multivibrator which runs at
around 2Hz, set by the 1MW resistor
and 100nF capacitor.
The outputs at pins 4 and 6 are 180°
out of phase, ie, opposite in polarity.
These voltages are buffered by parallel pairs of inverters, IC3a/IC3f and
IC3d/IC3e.
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The output from the IC3d/IC3e pair
is fed directly to the collector of the device under test (DUT) and via a 56kW
resistor to the base.
The emitter is driven with the opposite polarity signal from IC3a/IC3f
via inverse parallel connected LEDs
(LED3 & LED4) and a 470W currentlimiting resistor.
If the DUT is working correctly then
current will flow through either LED3
or LED4 during one of the output phases but it will cease during the other
phase, when the base-emitter junction
is reverse-biased.
Australia’s electronics magazine
(MOD2) so that it can monitor and
display the contactor state.
The parts for this project (excluding the contactor) cost me around $10
from AliExpress.
Both Arduino sketches are available
for download from the Silicon Chip
website. The download package also
includes the three libraries required
to build the sketches: Adafruit_GFX,
RTC and TFT_ILI9163C.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India ($65).
So LED3 or LED4 will blink to indicate a good transistor, with the other
LED remaining off. The colour indicates whether the transistor is a PNP
or NPN device; red for NPN and green
for PNP.
If the transistor has failed short-circuit then LED3 and LED4 will light alternately, whereas if it is open-circuit,
neither LED will light.
Diodes can also be tested by connecting them between the COLLECTOR and EMITTER pin sockets. With
a good diode, one of the two LEDs will
blink while the other remains off. Reversing the diode will change which
LED is blinking.
June 2019 97
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Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
The Mosfet testing section is based
on two 555 timer ICs; a single 556
could be used instead. IC1 operates
as an oscillator, again at around 2Hz,
while IC2 operates as an inverter, giving a square wave at its pin 3 output
that’s opposite in phase to that of output pin 3 of IC1.
These two ICs drive the Mosfet terminals via 330W current limiting-resistors, white LEDs with reverse-connected diodes and rotary switch S1.
S1 allows four different testing modes.
In position 1, the drain is left disconnected while the gate and source
are driven with opposite phase signals
via LED1 and LED2.
Since there should be a very high
resistance between the gate and the
other two pins, neither LED should
light up. If either does, that indicates a
short circuit between gate and source.
Similarly, in position 2, the source
is left disconnected and the drain and
gate are driven via LED1 and LED2.
Again, neither LED should light up.
If either does, that indicates a short
between the gate and drain.
In position 3, the gate is connected
to the 5V supply while the drain and
source are driven with opposite signals
via LED1 and LED2. If LED1 and LED2
light up alternately, that indicates that
the Mosfet is an N-channel type. If it’s
a P-channel type, LED1 will remain off
and LED2 will blink.
In position 4, the gate is connected
to 0V (GND) while the drain and source
are driven with opposite signals via
LED1 and LED2. If LED1 and LED2
light up alternately, that indicates that
the Mosfet is a P-channel type. If it’s
an N-channel type, LED1 will blink
while LED2 will remain off.
If LED1 and LED2 light up alternately in both positions 3 and 4, that
indicates a short circuit between the
drain and source.
All of the ICs in the circuit are powered from a 5V regulated supply, derived from a 9V battery or plugpack
by linear regulator REG1. LED5 lights
up to indicate when power is applied.
If using a battery, an on/off switch
should be connected in series between
it and the input of REG1.
Gianni Pallotti,
North Rocks, NSW ($70).
Editor’s note: most Mosfets will work
at 5V but some might not. The circuit
supply voltage could be increased
above 5V to make the Mosfet tester
more reliable.
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Vintage Radio
By Rob Leplaw
AWA Radiola Model 137
the “Fisk” recreated
Rob took an old radio chassis he
inherited from his grandfather,
fixed it and built a cabinet for
it. The style is 1930s Art Deco,
but with a less ornate and much
smaller cabinet than the original.
He had to repair or replace
quite a few of the original
components, and figure out how
to get it working with few circuit
details to go on. The result is a
new-looking radio with the style
and the sound of the 30s.
I first saw this radio chassis in my
grandfather’s shed in the late 1960s,
while I was building a modified Austin A40. I eventually inherited the radio and over the years, I would see
it sitting forlornly on the shelf in my
workshop and would stop to take a
look at it.
One day, I sat down and traced out
a rough circuit. It became evident that
someone had been into it and removed
some parts. However, all the valves
were there, and it looked like it might
be salvageable. The labels indicated
that it was Australian and the reason
I kept it was it looked so old with all
the 2.5V filament valves.
At the time, I was doing the Radio
Trades course at North Sydney Technical College, so I scanned the library
looking for circuits of radios with
similar valves. But could never find
an exact match.
100
Silicon Chip
Some years later, I had another burst
of enthusiasm, as I noticed that the
chassis was showing signs of decay
from its years in a dusty shed. I then
decided to strip the chassis carefully, remove the rust and paint it. Several years passed and now and then,
I would again look at the radio and
think I should find time to repair it.
With that thought in mind, I usually
just gave it a dusting and put it back
in the plastic bag which had become
its home.
Finally, in 2016 I got serious. If I was
going to get it working again, I had to
nut out its circuit. But most of the large
capacitors were inside metal containers, so I couldn’t tell their value. I decided to open the containers and try
to measure the individual capacitors.
This involved using heat to melt the
lid off and also to melt the wax inside,
which held the capacitors in place.
Australia’s electronics magazine
A couple of the capacitors inside
had markings but most didn’t. I tried
measuring them but they were all expired. Anyway, I had the basic circuit
and of course, now we have the internet, so I started searching to see if
I could find a circuit for a radio with
the same valve line-up.
After much searching, I found details on the HRSA website of an AWA
chassis that used precisely the same
valves but no circuit diagram was
available. It was the AWA Radiola
Model 137 (1934).
I then found Kevin Chant’s website
and emailed him to see if he could
help, but he turned up a blank.
While searching the web, I found
circuit diagrams for AWA models 136
and 139, made just before and after my
unit. Comparing the Radiola 136 circuit to my chassis, I could see it was
a very similar design. However, mine
siliconchip.com.au
The AWA Model 137 is a mains powered radio with a 175KHz IF, an adjustable supply voltage of 200-260V AC and a
safety fuse incorporated to protect against overload. The 36kW resistor near the volume control is a best guess value and
not the actual value. A few of the components in the circuit haven’t been labelled as their values are unknown.
has a push-pull output stage based on
two 2A5 valves while the 136 used a
single 2A5 in Class-A.
Finally, I decided to contact the
HRSA and ask if they had a circuit for
the 137. They did but it had no component values listed. I ordered a copy
anyway and when it arrived, it was
apparent that it matched my chassis.
That circuit is shown here.
In my original circuit tracing, I
had somehow transposed the RF input coil and the mixer coil, but apart
from that, it very similar. The HRSA
circuit showed that the output stage
was driven by a centre-tapped transformer (missing from my chassis) and
after discussions with HRSA members,
I was advised about a suitable type of
transformer to use.
I found the ideal period transformer on the internet and also an output
transformer, as it was missing from
my chassis.
Circuit description
This was a high-end set for its day,
using seven valves; two type 58 pentodes, a 2A7 pentagrid, 2B7 doublediode pentode, two 2A5 pentodes and
a type 80 (short for UX280) full-wave
rectifier. The first type 58 is used as
an RF amplifier stage, which feeds
siliconchip.com.au
the 2A7 mixer/oscillator. From there,
the signal goes to an IF amplifier stage
based on the second type 58, then onto
a dual diode/pentode (2B7) for detection and audio amplification.
The amplified, demodulated signal
drives one of the 2A5 pentode output
valves directly, as well as a phasesplitter transformer (labelled TE.9),
which controls the other 2A5, so that
they drive the centre-tapped primary
winding of the output transformer in
push-pull mode.
The type 80 full-wave (dual diode)
rectifier is used to derive the HT voltage. This is filtered first by a pi filter
involving an iron-cored choke (inductor), TA67, then further filtered using
the electromagnetic speaker’s 850W
field coil. Thus the field coil gets its
magnetising current from the HT while
also providing the second inductor in
the filter. This was standard practice
in the days before permanent magnet
speakers.
Note that the HT filter chokes are
on the negative side. The positive HT
rail voltage comes straight from the
cathode of the type 80 rectifier valve,
while HT ground first passes through
the filter inductors (bypassed by three
capacitors) before reaching the mains
transformer.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Coupling from the RF amplification
stage output (the anode of the first
type 58 valve) and the tuned inductor
circuit feeding the control grid of the
mixer/oscillator is via air coupling,
hence the strange ‘hook-like’ symbol
seen between the two valves.
This is something you occasionally
see in vintage radios. The output of
the RF amplifier is strong enough to
directly couple into the mixer circuit.
The volume control in this set may
seem unusual, but it was common in
earlier designs. The 5kW WW pot is in
series with the common 90W cathode
resistor for the RF amplifier, converter
and IF amplifier. Their control grids
are all DC biased to ground.
With the volume control at minimum resistance (maximum volume),
a small amount of bias is created by
the combined cathode currents flowing through the 90W resistor. As the
volume pot is turned, its resistance rises, increasing bias to the three valves.
This reduces gain, and thus volume.
The volume control also adjusts the
common screen bias voltage, via the
36kW/11kW voltage divider, although
this has minimal effect on operation.
This would have been necessary
since the set lacks AGC on the front
end – there is no feedback path from
June 2019 101
Chassis restoration
The underside of the chassis is quite neat. The silver cans marked 1-4 contain
the coupling transformers, while the two copper boxes on the underside and top
(left of the dial) of the chassis contain electrolytic capacitors.
the detector back to earlier stages. So
the front-end gain had to be adjustable to avoid saturation on strong local stations.
The set also has a phono input socket
and switch. The phono input is marked
“P” and the switch marked “R” and
“P”, below and to the left of the 2B7
detector/audio preamplifier. In the “R”
position, the signal from the demodulator is fed to the control grid of the 2B7
pentode, while in the “P” position, the
demodulator is disconnected and the
phono signal is fed in instead.
The demodulator has a 100kW load
resistor to the 2B7’s cathode and 82pF
filter capacitor to remove the IF modulation. The 2B7’s cathode resistor
is bypassed with a 50µF capacitor to
maximise gain. The audio signal from
the R/P switch is further filtered by a
100kW/10pF RC low-pass filter, presumably to remove any remaining RF.
102
Silicon Chip
The radio also has a tone control pot.
One end of its track connects to plate
of one of the 2A5s (ie, one end of the
speaker transformer primary) while its
wiper is connected, via a 50nF coupling capacitor, to the anode of the
other 2A5 and thus the opposite end
of the speaker transformer.
So it seems that the tone control selectively shunts some of the amplified
audio signals which would otherwise
appear across the speaker. While this
is an inefficient way to provide tone
control, it was likely done to save on
component count.
There is also a connector for an
external loudspeaker, marked “L”,
shown just to the right of the 2A5s. It
connects directly to the anodes of both
2A5s. One would hope that this terminal is well-insulated, given the high
voltage which could appear across
those two terminals.
Australia’s electronics magazine
After going over my chassis several
times and comparing my components
with those listed on the 136 circuit,
I also discovered a few components
had been removed from my chassis. I
replaced all the unknown capacitors
with values from the 136 or my best
guess, and also changed a couple of
resistors that measured a much higher
resistance than expected.
The only big guess was the value
of one resistor in the voltage divider
that provides screen and biasing supplies to the RF & IF amplifiers and
converter. The resistor in my chassis
was open-circuit, and the colour code
had flaked off.
The value in the Model 136 circuit
seemed too low and didn’t agree with
the remaining paint on my resistor, so
I guessed it was 36kW. It could have
originally been 16kW but it works with
36kW, so I stuck with it.
Having replaced the missing components, it was time to power it up.
First, I removed all the valves, so I
could check the HT without them. I
plugged the chassis in and switched
on the power. Everything seemed to
work OK, with the HT settling at 350V
DC. This seemed a bit high, as all the
valves list 250V as their plate voltage.
I worked out what the total current
drain of the valves would be and calculated the expected voltage drop across
the speaker field coil, and it looked like
I would still have about 300V on the
plates if I didn’t make any changes.
So I added an extra load resistor
across the HT supply to bring it down
to 250V, just to be safe. I plugged in
all the valves and switched it back on,
monitoring the HT rail, and it settled
down to 250V, as expected.
I fed an audio signal into the grid
of the 2B7 audio preamp and got audio from the speaker. This was good
but when I injected RF into the aerial input, I couldn’t get anything from
the speaker. The mixer was oscillating correctly and if I fed a signal into
the mixer grid, I got an audio output.
After much head scratching, I decided to remove the inductor load on
the RF amplifier’s anode. As I pulled
it out, I found that it had been shorted
out with a piece wire wrapped around
the back. That certainly explained the
lack of output!
On closer examination, I found that
the leads had broken off the load coil.
I guess that is why it had been shorted
siliconchip.com.au
carded long ago. I had a picture of the
original AWA cabinet (shown here); a
huge piece of furniture. I was not keen
to recreate that. So I browsed the internet, looking at pictures of vintage
radios and eventually decided that I
would build a tombstone style cabinet
for it, with a rounded top.
The result would be a smaller, more
practical and (in my opinion) more attractive package.
My original idea was to make a basic, plain face with the speaker at the
top and I started construction with
this in mind, making the cabinet as
small as possible while still able to fit
the chassis. Some way into the build,
I saw an old Philips radio with a sim-
ilar shape but a much more elaborate
face and decided to style mine after it.
The base is made from recycled Australian cedar, as are the vertical pieces
on either side, while the main part of
the face is veneered in teak. The top
arch is stained plywood. The badge in
the middle of the speaker is a replica
AWA Fisk Radiola.
I cut and shaped brass into a rounded rectangular shape for the dial feature. I had “Model 137” engraved under the dial opening. On the rear, I fastened an AWA employee badge that I
found in a box of old badges.
Finally, it was finished, 48 years after I first laid eyes on it. When tuned
to ABC RN and with music playing, it
sounds very satisfying.
SC
►
out, but that was a crude and not very
effective repair attempt.
I managed to recover the wires at either end and repair the coil properly.
With the working coil reinstalled, the
radio sprang into life. I removed the
additional load from the HT rail and
it settled down to about 280V DC, and
everything seemed fine.
But all the time spent in the old
shed had done the speaker no good.
The cone was utterly gone. I contemplated keeping the speaker field coil
and fitting a modern permanent magnet speaker, but decided it would be
better if I could repair the original, so
I ordered a rubber surround on eBay
that looked the right size.
When it came, I glued it in place
and then made a new paper cone out
of some construction paper. I carefully
removed the remains of the old cone,
being careful not to damage the voice
coil wires, which I left surrounded by
a small section of the old cone.
After adjusting and trimming the
new cone to the right size, I glued it
to the rubber surround and the voice
coil diaphragm. I then connected the
voice coil and the bucking coil to the
new output transformer and reassembled the speaker. Back in the radio, it
all worked perfectly!
As the chassis was found in a shed,
the cabinet had apparently been dis-
The stations listed on
the dial are, from left
to right: 2CO, 7ZL,
3AR, 5CK, 4FC, 6WF,
5CL, 4QG, 3LO, 2BL,
4RK and 2NC. The
only callsign still in
use is 2BL.
►
siliconchip.com.au
The new case is
custom-built in an
Art Deco style, and
is much smaller than
the original console
cabinet (shown at
right). The rear of the
new case was affixed
with an old AWA
employee badge and
a replica logo was
made for the front.
Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 103
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UHF Repeater (May19)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13), GPS Analog Clock Driver (Feb17)
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT
$15 MICROS
Four-Channel DC Fan & Pump Controller (Dec18)
Programmable Ignition Timing Module (Jun99), Fuel Mixture Display (Sept00)
Oscar Naughts And Crosses (Oct07), UV Lightbox Timer (Nov07)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), 16-bit Digital Pot (Jul10), Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
Micromite Mk2 (Jan15) + 47F, Low Frequency Distortion Analyser (Apr15)
Micromite LCD BackPack [either version] (Feb16), GPS Boat Computer (Apr16)
Micromite Super Clock (Jul16), Touchscreen Voltage/Current Ref (Oct-Dec16)
Micromite LCD BackPack V2 (May17), Deluxe eFuse (Aug17)
Micromite DDS for IF Alignment (Sept17), Tariff Clock (Jul18)
GPS-Synched Frequency Reference (Nov18)
ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB Mouse & Keyboard Adaptor (Feb19)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
$20 MICROS
Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14)
Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite PLUS Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus LCD BackPack (Nov16)
Micromite PLUS Explore 100 (Sep-Oct16)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Cont. (Oct-Dec10)
SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
$30 MICROS
DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19)
When ordering, be sure to select BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, HARD-TO-GET BITS, ETC
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
- 1.3-inch 128x64 SSD1306-based blue OLED display module
- laser-cut matte black acrylic case pieces
- MCP4251-502E/P dual-digital potentiometer
(JUN 19)
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER
(FEB 19)
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD VERSION)
(FEB 19)
N-channel Mosfets Q1 & Q2 (SIHB15N60E) and two 4.7MW 3.5kV resistors
IRD1 (TSOP4136) and fresnel lens (IML0688)
Short form kit (includes PCB and all parts, except for the extension cable)
SW-18010P vibration sensor (S1)
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
(JAN 19)
Main PCB with IC1 pre-soldered
Main PCB with IC1 and surrounding components (in box at top right) pre-soldered
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
Laser-cut clear acrylic case pieces
Set of extra SMD parts (contains most SMD parts except for the digital audio output)
Extendable VHF whip antenna with SMA connector: 700mm ($15.00) and 465mm ($10.00)
PCB-mounting SMA ($2.50), PAL ($5.00) and dual-horizontal RCA ($2.50) socket
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE KIT (CAT SC4750)
(NOV 18)
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER HARD-TO-GET PARTS (CAT SC4792)
(NOV 18)
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE SMD PARTS (CAT SC4762)
(NOV 18)
Includes PCB, programmed micro and all other required onboard components
One LF50CV regulator (TO-220) and LM4865MX audio amplifier IC (SOIC-8)
Includes PCB and all SMD parts required
$15.00
$10.00
$3.00
$20.00
$10.00
(JUL 18)
(MAY 18)
PARTS FOR THE 6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
(OCT 17)
All parts including the PCB and a length of clear heatshrink tubing
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
One ERA-2SM+ & one ADCH-80A+ (Cat SC1167; two required)
$60.00
$90.00
$69.90
$20.00
$30.00
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
$15.00
$10.00
$80.00
$15.00
$15.00
$69.90
$15.00/pk.
MICROBRIDGE COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4264)
(MAY 17)
PCB plus all on-board parts including programmed microcontroller (SMD ceramics for 10µF) $20.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2 – COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4237)
(AUG 18)
PCB and all onboard parts (including optional ones) but no SD card, cell or battery holder
$40.00
PCB and programmed micro for a discount price
USB PORT PROTECTOR COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4574)
$10.00
$1.00
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS KIT (CAT SC4658)
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER PCB+PIC BUNDLE (CAT SC4641)
P&P – $10 Per order#
(MAY 17)
includes PCB, programmed micro, touchscreen LCD, laser-cut UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
SMD Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other on-board parts
$70.00
23LCV1024-I/P SRAM (DIP) and MCP73831T charger ICs (UHF Repeater, MAY19)
$11.50
MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB Mouse & Keyboard Adapator, FEB19)
$1.50
LM4865MX amplifier IC & LF50CV regulator (Tinnitus/Insomnia Killer, NOV18)
$10.00
2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module with SD card socket (Tide Clock, JUL18)
$22.50
ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Part 15, APR18)
$5.00
MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (DIP-14) (AM Radio Transmitter, MAR18)
$2.50
WiFi Antennas with U.FL/IPX connectors (Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi, FEB18):
5dBi – $12.50 ~ 2dBi (omnidirectional) – $10.00
NRF24L01+PA+NA transceiver with SNA connector and antenna (El Cheapo 12, JAN18)
$5.00
WeMos D1 Arduino-compatible boards with WiFi (SEPT17, FEB18):
ThingSpeak data logger – $10.00 ~ WiFi Tank Level Meter (ext. antenna socket) – $15.00
Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player/Recorder, VS1053, JUL17)
$20.00
1nF 1% MKP (5mm lead spacing) or ceramic capacitor (Wide-Range LC Meter, JUN18)
$2.50
MAX7219 LED controller boards (El Cheapo Modules, Part 7, JUN17):
8x8 red SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ~ red 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
AD9833 DDS module (with gain control) (for Micromite DDS, APR17)
$25.00
AD9833 DDS module (no gain control) (El Cheapo Modules, Part 6, APR17)
$15.00
CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
microSD card adaptor (El Cheapo Modules, Part 3, JAN17)
$2.50
DS3231 real-time clock with mounting spacers and screws (El Cheapo, Part 1, OCT16)
$5.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Place an order on our website for an accurate quote.
06/19
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB ONLY. If you want a kit, check our store or contact the kit suppliers advertising in this
issue. For unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
NOTE: Not all PCBs are shown here due to space limits but the Silicon Chip Online Shop has boards going back to 2001 and beyond.
For a complete list of available PCBs etc, go to siliconchip.com.au/shop/8 Prices are PCBs only, NOT COMPLETE KITS!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
TDR DONGLE
DEC 2014
MULTISPARK CDI FOR PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG STEREO VALVE AMPLIFIER MAIN BOARD
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG REMOTE CONTROL BOARD
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG FRONT & REAR PANELS
DEC 2014
CURRAWONG CLEAR ACRYLIC COVER
JAN 2015
ISOLATED HIGH VOLTAGE PROBE
JAN 2015
SPARK ENERGY METER MAIN BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
SPARK ENERGY ZENER BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
SPARK ENERGY METER CALIBRATOR BOARD
FEB/MAR 2015
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
LOW-FREQUENCY DISTORTION ANALYSER
APR 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR MAIN PCB
MAY 2015
BALANCED INPUT ATTENUATOR FRONT & REAR PANELS MAY 2015
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC
DEC 2015
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
PRECISION 50/60Hz TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
JUN 2016
UNIVERSAL TEMPERATURE ALARM
JULY 2016
BROWNOUT PROTECTOR MK2
JULY 2016
8-DIGIT FREQUENCY METER
AUG 2016
APPLIANCE ENERGY METER
AUG 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 64
AUG 2016
CYCLIC PUMP/MAINS TIMER
SEPT 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 (4 layer)
SEPT 2016
AUTOMOTIVE FAULT DETECTOR
SEPT 2016
MOSQUITO LURE
OCT 2016
MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
MINI MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
50A BATTERY CHARGER CONTROLLER
NOV 2016
PASSIVE LINE TO PHONO INPUT CONVERTER
NOV 2016
MICROMITE PLUS LCD BACKPACK
NOV 2016
AUTOMOTIVE SENSOR MODIFIER
DEC 2016
TOUCHSCREEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT REFERENCE
DEC 2016
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. CONTROL BOARD
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. MOSFET BOARD
JAN 2017
GPS SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
FEB 2017
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER
FEB 2017
POOL LAP COUNTER
MAR 2017
STATIONMASTER TRAIN CONTROLLER
MAR 2017
EFUSE
APR 2017
SPRING REVERB
APR 2017
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MAY 2017
MICROBRIDGE
MAY 2017
PCB CODE:
04112141
05112141
01111141
01111144
01111142/3
SC2892
04108141
05101151
05101152
05101153
04103151
04103152
04104151
04203151/2
04203153
04105151
04105152/3
18105151
04106151
04106152
04106153
04104151
01109121/2
15105151
15105152
18107151
04108151
16101141
01107151
15108151
18107152
01205141
01109111
07108151
03109151/2
01110151
19110151
19111151
04101161
04101162
01101161
01101162
05102161
16101161
07102121
07102122
11111151
05102161
04103161
03104161
04116011/2
04104161
24104161
01104161
03106161
03105161
10107161
04105161
04116061
07108161
10108161/2
07109161
05109161
25110161
16109161
16109162
11111161
01111161
07110161
05111161
04110161
01108161
11112161
11112162
04202171
16110161
19102171
09103171/2
04102171
01104171
04112162
24104171
Price:
$5.00
$10.00
$50.00
$5.00
$30.00/set
$25.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$15.00
$15.00
$15.00
$20.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$15.00
$15.00
$2.50
$20.00
$15.00
$7.50
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00
$15.00
$20.00
$15.00
$15.00
$7.50
$7.50
$6.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00/pair
$20.00
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$2.50
$15.00
$15.00/set
$7.50
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER PCB
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER FRONT PANEL
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER CASE PIECES
RAPIDBRAKE
DELUXE EFUSE
DELUXE EFUSE UB1 LID
MAINS SUPPLY FOR BATTERY VALVES (INC. PANELS)
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER PANELS
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER CASE PIECES
6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
KELVIN THE CRICKET
6GHz+ FREQUENCY COUNTER CASE PIECES (SET)
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO PCB
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO CASE PIECES
THEREMIN
PROPORTIONAL FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
WATER TANK LEVEL METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
10-LED BARAGRAPH
10-LED BARAGRAPH SIGNAL PROCESSING
TRIAC-BASED MAINS MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
HEATER CONTROLLER
DELUXE FREQUENCY SWITCH
USB PORT PROTECTOR
2 x 12V BATTERY BALANCER
USB FLEXITIMER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
WIDE-RANGE LC METER CLEAR CASE PIECES
TEMPERATURE SWITCH MK2
LiFePO4 UPS CONTROL SHIELD
RASPBERRY PI TOUCHSCREEN ADAPTOR (TIDE CLOCK)
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER
BRAINWAVE MONITOR (EEG)
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS
DOOR ALARM
STEAM WHISTLE / DIESEL HORN
DCC PROGRAMMER
DCC PROGRAMMER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
OPTO-ISOLATED RELAY (WITH EXTENSION BOARDS)
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE
LED CHRISTMAS TREE
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (JAYCAR VERSION)
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (ALTRONICS VERSION)
HIGH-SENSITIVITY MAGNETOMETER
USELESS BOX
FOUR-CHANNEL DC FAN & PUMP CONTROLLER
ATtiny816 DEVELOPMENT/BREAKOUT BOARD
ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MAIN PCB
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MOUNTING PLATE
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER EXTENSION PCB
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD) PCB
USB MOUSE AND KEYBOARD ADAPTOR PCB
REMOTE-CONTROLLED PREAMP WITH TONE CONTROL
PREAMP INPUT SELECTOR BOARD
PREAMP PUSHBUTTON BOARD
DIODE CURVE PLOTTER
FLIP-DOT COIL
FLIP-DOT PIXEL (INCLUDES 16 PIXELS)
FLIP-DOT FRAME (INCLUDES 8 FRAMES)
FLIP-DOT DRIVER
FLIP-DOT (SET OF ALL FOUR PCBS)
iCESTICK VGA ADAPTOR
UHF DATA REPEATER
AMPLIFIER BRIDGE ADAPTOR
3.5-INCH SERIAL LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
MAY 2017
JUN 2017
JUN 2017
JUN 2017
JUL 2017
AUG 2017
AUG 2017
AUG 2017
SEPT 2017
SEPT 2017
SEPT 2017
OCT 2017
OCT 2017
DEC 2017
DEC 2017
DEC 2017
JAN 2018
JAN 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
APR 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JULY 2018
JULY 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
SEPT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
07104171
01105171
01105172
SC4281
05105171
18106171
SC4316
18108171-4
01108171
01108172/3
SC4403
04110171
08109171
SC4444
06111171
SC4464
23112171
05111171
21110171
04101181
04101182
10102181
02104181
06101181
10104181
05104181
07105181
14106181
19106181
04106181
SC4618
SC4609
05105181
11106181
24108181
19107181
25107181
01107181
03107181
09106181
09107181
09107181
10107181/2
04107181
16107181
16107182
01110181
01110182
04101011
08111181
05108181
24110181
24107181
06112181
10111191
10111192
10111193
05102191
24311181
01111119
01111112
01111113
04112181
19111181
19111182
19111183
19111184
SC4950
02103191
15004191
01105191
24111181
$7.50
$12.50
$15.00
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$25.00
$20.00
$20.00/pair
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$25.00
$25.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$25.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$17.50
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER ADC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER DAC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CPU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER PSU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CONTROL BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER LCD ADAPTOR
DSP CROSSOVER (SET OF ALL BOARDS – TWO DAC)
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
JUNE 2019
JUNE 2019
01106191
01106192
01106193
01106194
01106195
01106196
SC5023
05105191
01104191
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$40.00
$5.00
$7.50
NEW PCBs
WE ALSO SELL AN A2 REACTANCE WALLCHART, RADIO, TV & HOBBIES DVD PLUS VARIOUS BOOKs IN THE “Books, DVDs, etc” PAGE AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP/3
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Tracking motor
rotations
Has Silicon Chip ever designed a circuit or discussed monitoring the voltage of a brushed DC motor to count its
revolutions? I want to use a 12V DC
motor like a crude stepper motor, to
count its revolutions and stop it after
a predetermined count.
This would be used to control the
opening of a butterfly valve. It could
open and then close fully when first
powered up to establish a baseline,
if required, although I would prefer
if it could stay closed. (S. S., Manly
Vale, NSW)
• The best way to do this is to add a
rotation sensor to the motor shaft. This
involves attaching a vane to the shaft
that interrupts an optical pickup sensor or using an iron vane or magnet
with a Hall effect sensor. The sensor
produces a signal as the vane passes through the sensor. For a Hall effect sensor with a magnet, the signal
would occur as the magnet passes by
the sensor.
We show how to use an optical
sensor for this purpose in the Contactless Tachometer described in the
August and September 2008 issues
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/52). Refer to Fig.6 in the August issue. Jaycar sells a suitable photo interrupter,
Cat ZD1901.
They also have a suitable Hall effect
sensor, Cat ZD1900. The data sheet can
be downloaded from their website.
You could then use a microcontroller to monitor the output of either
sensor and switch power to the motor off after a preset number of pulses
(ie, rotations).
WiFi controlled
dimmer wanted
The February issue is a beauty! John
Clarke has produced a great project, as
always, in the Touch and IR Controlled
Trailing Edge Dimmer (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/332).
In Circuit Notebook, Bera Somnath
106
Silicon Chip
discusses the ESP-01 module with
WiFi. Would it be possible to interface a WiFi module onto the Dimmer?
I could imagine a phone app being able to control all the lights in the
house. Really smart software could
evolve, say, to allow the phone’s GPS
position to notice you are approaching the house and switch on the welcome lights!
As always, the magazine is a great
read, congrats Nicholas on keeping
up a very fine product. (P. T., Montrose, Vic)
• That is indeed possible, but it isn’t
as simple as dropping an ESP-01
module into the dimmer. The ESP-01
draws a lot more idle current than the
PIC used in the Dimmer, so it would
need a much more substantial power
supply, with either a transformer or
switchmode module. The resulting
device would be bulkier and harder
to fit into a standard wall plate.
It would also require careful attention to avoid EMI problems between
the mains supply and WiFI transceiver.
The infrared remote control feature is much simpler and provides a
good compromise, since you can still
control the lights when you’re in the
room, which is when you need them
most!
Driving an I2C LCD
screen from a PIC32
I am using the Micromite (PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP) and want to
drive an LCD screen from it. Can the
LCD in your Online Shop, Cat SC4203,
be used with a PIC32?
What is the chip used in the LCD
for I2C communication? What would
the format of the signal from the PIC32
be? (F. T., via email)
an article on how to
• We published
drive I2C LCDs in the March 2017 issue, starting on page 82 (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10584). Here is a link
to the software mentioned in that article, for the Micromite and also Arduino: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/4202
Although the article concentrates on
Australia’s electronics magazine
16x2 displays, the 20x4 displays use
the same controller, a PCF8574, which
provides the I2C interface.
If you order one of the screens from
our Online Shop, it will come with
either a PCF8574 or PCF8574A. The
PCF8574A operates identically to the
PCF8574 except that it responds to a
different set of I2C bus addresses. See
the March 2017 article for details.
Running sump pump
from Silicon Chip UPS
I recently built the UPS that was
featured in the May-July 2018 issues
of Silicon Chip (siliconchip.com.au/
Series/323).
It works extremely well; however,
one of the reasons I built it was to provide power to a rainwater sump pump
that pumps stormwater up from a pit
on my premises to the road. If a power
failure occurs while it is raining, the
pit overflows and floods my garage.
The pump draws 800W when running and the UPS has no problems
managing that load. The problem is
that sometimes the pump will start,
but most of the time it overloads the
inverter at start-up which then shuts
down. If I start the inverter manually
and allow it to utilise its inbuilt soft
start feature, the pump starts reliably
every time.
I have built the Soft Starter project featured in the April 2012 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/705), but
this didn’t help, and in any case, I realised that as it will be powered on at
all times via the UPS, it wouldn’t do
its job anyway.
This turned my thinking to whether or not the 1.5kW Induction Motor
Speed Controller featured initially in
April 2012 and revised in August 2013
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/25) might
do the trick. As it is quite expensive,
I thought I would seek feedback from
you before proceeding, as there may
also be other options.
Many thanks for producing such a
great magazine. (D. E. Wattle Park, SA)
• The July 2012 Soft Starter for Power
siliconchip.com.au
Tools (siliconchip.com.au/Article/601)
will provide soft starting in a situation
where the mains supply is permanently connected to a device, and it switches on and off by itself. That design also
has two thermistors in series so it may
be more effective than the April 2012
Soft Starter.
But given the fact that your pump
would rarely be running from the inverter, you would be better off simply
purchasing several NTC thermistors
similar to what was used in the Soft
Starter and see how many you need
to connect in series before the pump
will start reliably on inverter power.
Assuming that this works, you could
then mount them in a generously sized
box (ideally a vented metal enclosure)
with a mains plug and socket at each
end. It would waste a bit of power as
the thermistors would run hot while
the pump is operating, but as long
as they have enough air space, they
should be OK.
The thermistors could be connected
between the inverter and UPS switching relays, so that they are out of circuit
when running from mains, as would be
the case most of the time. They would
only come into play on the rare occasion that the pump was running and
mains power was absent.
Alternatively, it would be possible
to modify the UPS design to leave the
inverter off and switch it on when
mains power had failed, and it detected that the pump wanted to start (via
load sensing circuitry).
But that would add quite a bit of
extra complexity; it would probably
require a secondary 12V battery to
run the electronics until the inverter
started (and maybe a separate charger).
So we think you should try the thermistor approach first, as it’s much simpler and may well do the job.
Building UPS using 12V
battery and inverter
I want to build your UPS design from the May-July 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/323) but
using a 12V battery bank rather than
the 24V bank that you used.
I assume that since the Arduino
board and relays in your design run off
a 12V supply, I could simply change
the charger, inverter and batteries to
12V and then run these other components straight off the battery.
Obviously, the DC battery cabling
would need to be upgraded to handle
double the current. The reason I want
to do this is that I already own a 12V,
20A charger, a 12V 32Ah battery and
a 12V Giandel inverter.
My other question is: how well will
the UPS kit handle a nearby lightning
strike or another type of pulse on the
mains? The Arduino could be the weak
link here. (N. M., Yass River, NSW)
• The software should work without changes if you use a 12V battery
instead of 24V, as the voltage thresholds can be set during the setup phase.
However, the battery thresholds will
need to be changed to suit.
The relays and Arduino board in our
design are fed from a separate 240V12V power supply, which is powered
from the inverter output.
This is not just because we used
a 24V battery bank; it was designed
this way so that the load is totally removed from the batteries if the unit
shuts down.
Running the Arduino and relays directly from the battery will change its
behaviour; in particular, it will not be
able to shut itself down entirely, as it
will be powered even after commanding the PSU to turn off.
How the unit responds to irregularities on the mains will depend on
the robustness of the individual components.
The sensing transformer and voltage
divider resistors isolate the Arduino,
and a brief surge should not cause any
problems. It’s designed to be able to
handle higher voltages than it would
usually be exposed to, anyway.
So we wouldn’t expect the Arduino
to be damaged except by a particularly
bad spike or surge. You could add extra surge protection components (eg,
a mains filter) if you are concerned
or in a particularly lightning-strike
prone area.
DCC Programmer not
working with decoders
I have built the Arduino-based
DCC Programmer (October 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11261),
and it works fine as a programmer.
But when I tried to run it as a base station, it works with NCE decoders but
will not work with Digitrax decoders.
This is a problem as I have a mixture
of these decoders.
Could this be a timing issue related
to the 116µs pulse width? If so, is there
any way this could be corrected? (G.
P., Stafford Heights, Qld)
• There’s no particular reason why the
DCC Programmer should work with
NCE decoders but not Digitrax. That
it’s working fine as a programmer sug-
Which transformer to use with Universal Power Supply
I want to build your new Remote
Controller Preamp with Tone Controls (March-April 2019; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/333) using the recommended Universal Power Supply board. You haven’t given a part
number for transformer T1 in the
parts list, and it is not shown on
the circuit board. I guess it must be
mounted off-board? Do you have a
part number for it? (L. E. B., Beerburrum, Qld)
• You are right that the transformer does not mount on the Universal
siliconchip.com.au
Regulator board. You will need to
use a chassis-mounting transformer.
We didn’t give a specific part
number because there are many different transformers which could be
used. For example, you could use a
toroidal transformer, EI-core transformer or even an AC plugpack.
We recommend that you use a
15V or 15-0-15V (30V centre-tapped)
transformer rated for at least 15VA to
power the preamp via the Universal
Regulator. Jaycar Cat MT2086 or Altronics Cat M4915B would be ideal.
Australia’s electronics magazine
If you want to save a bit of money,
Jaycar Cat MM2008 and Altronics
Cat M6672L are a bit cheaper, but
will have more flux leakage than a
toroidal type.
Jaycar Cat MM2002 and Altronics
Cat M2155L are cheaper again, but
you would only get half-wave rectification. That’s probably good, but
this will result in more ripple at the
regulator inputs.
If you want to use a plugpack instead, try Jaycar Cat MP3021 or Altronics Cat M9325A.
June 2019 107
gests that the 116µs pulse width is not
the problem. 116µs is well within the
100µs-10ms pulse width range specified in the DCC standards.
It’s more likely that this has to do
with the limited current that the 555
can supply, as mentioned in the article.
Its absolute maximum value is 200mA,
and it is already sagging quite badly at
100mA. It may be that the NCE chips
handle the sagging voltage better, or
don’t need as much current to operate.
We published a DCC Booster design
in the July 2012 issue which might
help with this (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/614).
We are also working on a DCC base
station that will be capable of much
higher current, so perhaps this is something you can consider building when
we publish it.
Arduino Data Logger
queries
I’ve finished assembling the Arduino Data Logger from your August and
September 2017 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/316) and have a couple
of questions.
Firstly, the colour coding for the
108
Silicon Chip
GPS wires to CON3 is different between Fig.2 and the photo. The wiring is reversed in the photo. Both photos show the wire sequence to be red,
blue, green, black and yellow, while
Fig.3 shows the sequence reversed.
Which is correct?
Also, upon trying to compile the
supplied code, I get the following error:
Arduino_Data_Logger.ino:18:20:
fatal error: RTClib.h: No such
file or directory
It would seem that the real-time
clock file hasn’t been downloaded in
the files from the Silicon Chip web site.
Thanks for the help, keep up the Arduino projects. (P. L., Tabulam, NSW)
• The photos in the August 2017 issue are of a veroboard prototype. You
can tell because the PCB is red. The
connector for the GPS in that version
was installed rotated 180° compared
to the final PCB. You can see photos of the final PCB in the September
2017 issue.
If you compare the photos of the final PCB to the overlay diagram, Fig.2,
the colour coding for the wiring to
CON3 is consistent.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Your compile error indicates that
RTClib is missing. A zip of that library
is included in the software download
package.
Please make sure you have installed
it before trying to compile the sketch,
as per the instructions on page 32 of
the August 2017 issue. Doing so should
eliminate that error message.
Powering mic preamp
from two 9V batteries
I am looking for a circuit of a coil microphone preamplifier circuit which
can run from two 9V batteries connected in series. It can be transistor
or op amp based. Have you published
such a circuit in your magazine? (P.
H., via email)
• We haven’t published a circuit exactly as you describe, but we have
published two microphone preamps
which could be easily modified to run
from ±9V rails produced by two batteries in series.
The first one is the Balanced Microphone Preamplifier (August 2004;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/3585). The
changes required are: omit REG1 and
join its input/output terminals with a
siliconchip.com.au
wire link. Change the 16V supply rail
bypass capacitors to 25V types. Connect the junction of your two batteries
to the Vcc ÷ 2 split rail and then power the circuit from the 18V across the
two batteries.
The second option is the Balanced
Microphone Preamplifier & Line Mixer
in the April 1995 issue. There is Altronics kit for this project still available (Cat K5531).
It’s designed to run from ±12V, but
it would work OK at ±9V. You would
need to bypass the 12V regulators.
Connect the junction of the two 9V
batteries to the ground rail.
You can purchase a scan of that article at the following link: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/?article=5163 Note that
the low-frequency response of this
design can be improved from -3dB at
180Hz to -3dB at around 34Hz by increasing C7 from 100nF to 470nF.
Modifying amp power
supply for lower voltage
I am building a kit for the 50W Audio Amplifier Module from the March
1994 issue of Silicon Chip (Jaycar Cat
KC5150). I want to use it to turn a
passive subwoofer into an active subwoofer. The speaker impedance is 4W,
and the instructions say to swap the
LM3876T chip with an LM3886T chip
and reduce the power supply rails
from ±35V to ±28V.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t say how to
do that. I’ve been scouring the internet
for help and can’t find anything relevant. I’ve sourced an LM3886T but
don’t know how to modify the power
supply circuit to get the required voltage. I need to know if it requires a different transformer and/or rectifier and
the value of the required capacitors.
(M. H., via email)
• For ±28V (nominal) supply rails you
need a transformer with two 18V windings (18-0-18V or 36V centre-tapped).
This will give you about ±25V at full
load and about ±28V at light loads. The
Altronics Cat M5118C 80VA toroidal
transformer is suitable. You don’t need
to change any other components in the
power supply.
Using Insulation Meter
to test long cables
I purchased the June 2010 issue and
the Power Supply PCB you designed
to build a Digital Insulation Meter
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/186). I
built it and tested it on resistances
from 500kW to 500MW at 500V, and it
worked fine.
I then tested the meter on the same
resistances but using 30m cables to
connect the resistances to the meter.
It worked OK below 10MW, but started giving incorrect results above that.
For example, the reading was 190MW
with a 100MW resistor at the end of a
30m cable.
I measured the current inside the
cables, and it varied a lot more with
long cables than with the short ones.
I think this is due to the capacitance
of the longer cables affecting the unit’s
operation.
I want to make insulation measurements on a cable a few kilometres
long. Do you have any advice on how
I can achieve this? (M. deR., Toulouse,
France)
• The June 2010 Insulation Meter was
not designed to check long cables. We
think you’re right that it’s the cable capacitance that is causing the problems.
Overcoming this might be tricky.
We suggest that you try fitting an
additional LC filter between the out-
Budget Senator Loudspeakers have more bass
I built both versions of the Senator Loudspeakers – the fully-fledged
set using the Celestion drivers (September & October 2015; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/291) and the “budget” set using the Altronics drivers
(May & June 2016; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/300).
I have used Jaycar-sourced inductors in the crossovers for both, after
scouring the branches across Australia to get them.
I notice that the budget set sounds
a little better than the original version with regards to the bass reproduction.
I have mounted the crossovers on
the reflector plate behind the woofer in both versions and was wondering if this is correct, or should I
have mounted them on the floor of
the cabinets?
Both have the specified acoustic
wadding but I noticed that in both instances, it covers the bass reflex port.
Is this a problem? I have tried both
siliconchip.com.au
sets of speakers being with the same
Class-A amplifier and the same CD.
The cheaper set definitely has
better bass reproduction and I’m
wondering why. I love the magazine; keep up the good work. (P. C.,
Woodcroft, SA)
• We asked Allan about this and
he responded: it is always pleasing
to get feedback about my speaker
projects!
In regards to the bass response,
the Altronics C3065 driver does
have a slightly lower resonance
because of its softer compliance,
but it also has a much lower power handling ability and sensitivity (60W/92dB) compared to the
Celestion NTR10252OD/E drivers
(250W/96dB).
The original Senator design is
designed to handle 250W/channel.
They can fill an auditorium and handle the heat because of the dual 2.5inch voice coils used in the woofers.
But if your room is small, then the
Australia’s electronics magazine
budget speakers with the Altronics
drivers will be fine.
I listen to the Celestion-based versions nearly every day for watching
TV and movies and am amazed at
their smooth response and big dynamics.
I never tire of the sound whereas I find the “budget” version a bit
boomy in the bass. We all have different ears, so it becomes a personal
choice which is better if high sound
levels are not needed.
Your crossover mounting position
is fine, and the wadding can be kept
away from the port by rolling it up
and loosely tying it up with a bit of
thin insulated wire. But we don’t
think it will make too much difference either way.
Just check that all your cabinet
joints are airtight because this can affect the bass response and you need
to ‘run in’ the Celestions to get the
best sound because of their tighter
surrounds.
June 2019 109
put of the HV generator PCB and the
4.7kW/1W resistor connecting to the
positive test terminal. This could use
say a 470µH RF choke in series, together with a shunt capacitor arrangement
to ground (after the RF choke).
This shunt capacitor arrangement
would be a duplicate of the existing
one at the output of the HV generator
to ground – ie, a pair of 100nF/630V
caps in series, each with a 10MW parallel resistor to ensure voltage sharing.
This filter would help to isolate the cable capacitance from the HV generator.
It might also be a good idea to fit a
470µF capacitor in parallel with the
existing 100nF capacitor connected
between the negative test terminal
and ground. We hope these suggestions help you to achieve your goals.
Running model railway
at 24V
I am interested in building your
Model Rail Controller (April 1997;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/4890). I am
building a garden railway with one locomotive which needs 24V. The 1997
design supplies 12V, and I like that it
is simple. Can this project be upgraded to 24V? If so, do you still have this
PCB available?
If this project can’t be upgraded, do
you have an alternative project? (I. S.,
Glenhaven, NSW)
• The Train Controller in the April
1997 issue actually runs from a split
12V supply. One 12V supply is for the
positive (eg, forward direction) and the
other 12V supply for the negative (reverse) direction. It is not easily adapted for a 24V supply, and the PCB is no
longer available.
Instead, we suggest you build the
Li’l Pulser Model Train Controller Mk2
(July 2013 & January 2014; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/178). It can be powered
from 24V. If the supply could exceed
24V then you will need to upgrade the
input 2200µF supply decoupling capacitors to 35V types.
LED chaser kit wanted
for tractor
Do you have a kit for a light chaser
using LEDs that I could power from
my Ferguson TEA20 tractor? I’ve fitted indicators, brake lights, headlights,
and tail lights using 12V DC powered
LEDs. (D. P., Young, NSW)
• We haven’t published a light chaser
in a long time, and the PCBs and kits
for our older projects are no longer
available. However, Jaycar sell the kits
for Short Circuits projects, originally
designed by Silicon Chip, which in-
cludes at least three LED chasers.
The Jaycar Cat KJ8064 10 LED light
chaser runs from 12V DC. They also
have a 10-LED Knight Rider LED scanner kit, Cat KJ8236 and a 20-LED light
scanner/chaser, Cat KJ8066. You can
look up these catalog codes on their
website for more information, including a link to the instructions for each
kit as a PDF file.
Headphone amplifier
sharing power supply
I am planning a revamp to build
the Hi-Fi Stereo Headphone Amplifier (September 2011; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/32) into an enclosure along
with a multi-input preamplifiers. As
the preamp runs from a ±15V supply,
can I safely run the headphone amplifier from the same supply? (R. K.,
Cessnock, NSW)
• The headphone amplifier uses internal ±12V rails mainly for convenience, as this allows you to use a more
common 12V AC plugpack power supply. You could run it from ±15V with
little risk of overheating. The quiescent power would increase a bit and
so the output transistors would run a
bit hotter, but you could dial back the
quiescent current slightly to compensate, if necessary.
Using switchmode plugpacks with valve preamp
I acquired some Silicon Chip magazine back issues, including the vacuum tube based preamplifier designs
incorporating switchmode power
supplies, published in the November
2003, February 2004 and January/
February 2016 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/293 and siliconchip.
com.au/Series/295).
I can’t find any mention of the
type of 12V power source required,
eg, linear “wall wart” or switchmode types. The linear (transformer-based) types with DC outputs are
now hard to obtain.
The SMPS types are more abundant. Do you know if there would be
any noise problems caused by using
a switchmode plugpack with any of
these designs?
Also, I read online that one constructor used the November 2003
power supply to power a stereo pair
to good effect, then he says that he
110
Silicon Chip
bought more PCBs, which are no
longer available, only for some of the
power supplies to fail without any
reason. So I’m wondering if there
may have been an update to the design in later issues.
I have been working in electronics
design including vacuum tube audio,
and I thought that if it worked for a
year or so then the failure may have
been to assembly flaws, dry joints etc.
I have made my own PCB but
haven’t powered it up yet. I believe it
has to be loaded down with the tube
circuit. Any help would be most appreciated. (J. H., UK)
• In both designs you’ve mentioned, the mains power supply feeds
straight into the input of a linear regulator which should remove any noise.
That’s why ~15V supplies were
specified, to give the headroom for
regulation down to 12V. The 2016
design was tested using a switchAustralia’s electronics magazine
mode plugpack, and there was no
sign of any digital noise getting
through to the outputs.
There have not been any updates
to either of these projects (except for
the one you mentioned, in February
2004) and we are not aware of any
problems with them. If it worked
for a year and then failed, that suggests a faulty component. None of
the components in these circuits are
particularly stressed.
Neither power supply design
should fail if operated without load,
as they both have feedback-based
voltage limiting. However, the January/February 2016 design does require the specified load to prevent
‘squegging’ which results in more
noise appearing at the output.
We sell PCBs for all the projects that
you mentioned. See siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/?article=3390 & siliconchip.
SC
com.au/Shop/?article=9768
siliconchip.com.au
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Speaker enthusiast needs a copy of a
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& construction”. It had a catalogue number BC1166.
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ASSORTED BOOKS FOR $5 EACH
Selling assorted books on electronics
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Will pay $50 (including postage) to the
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
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Australia’s electronics magazine
June 2019 111
Coming up in Silicon Chip
12V Battery Isolator
This solid-state device automatically connects an auxiliary battery for charging
when the vehicle alternator is running. It can handle charge currents in excess
of 100A, does not get hot during operation, produces little to no EMI and has
a low current drain when off.
Audio Millivoltmeter
This Arduino-based meter has three input ranges (200mV, 2V and 20V) plus
balanced and unbalanced inputs. It provides an accurate audio signal level
reading in µV/mV/V and dBV. It has better resolution than our previous designs, in a more compact package.
Micromite LCD BackPack V3
This new Micromite BackPack is still cheap and easy to build, but now supports larger touchscreens, plus has onboard provision for a real-time clock,
temperature, pressure and humidity sensors, an infrared receiver and even
more useful functions!
Rechargeable LED bicycle light
This device uses a switchmode converter to drive a string of LEDs from a rechargeable lithium-ion battery pack. It has multiple light modes and automatically reduces the LED current to prevent overheating.
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................36-39
Ampec Technologies................... 9
Cypher Research Labs............... 6
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona..................................... IBC
Hare & Forbes....................... OBC
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEACH Co Ltd........................... 25
LEDsales................................. 111
Microchip Technology................ 11
Mouser Electronics...................... 5
Ocean Controls......................... 12
Radiation and Electronics
PCB Designs........................... 111
The operation of electronics in aircraft and spacecraft (and here on Earth too)
can be affected by radiation. It can even cause permanent damage. This article explores the sources of radiation that can affect electronics, what problems that radiation can cause and how to prevent or overcome those effects.
Rohde & Schwarz........................ 7
Speech Synthesis with Raspberry Pi and Arduino
Silicon Chip Wallchart.............. 76
Use a very low-cost Raspberry Pi Zero and this small add-on board to allow
any computer or microcontroller to produce synthesised speech in a variety
of languages and accents, and play back music and audio recordings. If you
use a Pi with WiFi, it can even play internet radio streams.
Silicon Chip Shop......44,104-105
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
Tronixlabs................................ 111
The July 2019 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, June 27th.
Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between June 25th
and July 12th.
Wagner Electronics................... 10
SC Frequency Counter.............. 31
SC Vintage Radio DVD............ 108
Silicon Chip Subscriptions....... 99
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 65
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wiltronics Research.................... 8
Notes & Errata
DSP Active Crossover/Parametric Equaliser, May 2019: in the ADC circuit diagram on pages 30 & 31 (Fig.4), two pairs of
22µF capacitors are shown between the ±9V rails and ground but only one pair actually exists. Also, one 10µF bypass capacitor is shown on the +5V rail but there are actually two, with the other located close to IC4/IC5. Finally, the two 47µF coupling
capacitors after FB1/FB2 are actually polarised, with the positive ends to FB1 & FB2.
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to feature it in Circuit Notebook.
We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to your PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to
purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or
whatever. Email your circuit and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
112
Silicon Chip
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