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Contents
Vol.32, No.10 October 2019
Features & Reviews
12 History of Cyber Espionage and Cyber Weapons, Part 2
Last month we looked at some of the techniques used. Now we move onto a lot
of the ingenious hardware they used (and still use today). Some of it can even be
bought over-the-counter! – by Dr David Maddison
34 Two new Arduino Nanos: the “Every” and the “33 IoT”
We take an in-depth look at the latest offerings by Arduino . . . and we were very
impressed. They’re very powerful but they’re low in cost – by Tim Blythman
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
They called it “The
Thing” – a beautifully
carved Great Seal of
the USA, a gift from
the Russians for the
new US embassy in
Moscow. But hidden inside was an incredibly clever passive
“bug” and it was not discovered for
many years! – Page 12.
61 Three Arduino Motor Driver Shields
If you’re building anything with motors, you’ll need something to drive them. Here
we look at three motor driving Arduino shields – by Tim Blythman
Constructional Projects
22 45V, 8A Bench Power Supply to build
This linear design will take pride of place on your work bench. It can supply up to
45V at 8A or even more at lower current – 50V <at> 2A. With current limiting and a
very stable voltage it’s the one you’ve been waiting for – by Tim Blythman
We’ve been
promising this for many
months – and here it is! This linear
Bench Supply can deliver up to 45V
at a whopping 8A! – Page 22
42 High resolution Audio Millivoltmeter/Voltmeter
With unbalanced (<56µV-60V RMS) and balanced (<56µV-600mV RMS) inputs and
a frequency range of 5Hz-110kHz +0, -3dB and accuracy of 0.1%, it’s another worthy
test bench instrument. It runs off 5V DC (USB output or a 5V supply) – by Jim Rowe
76 Solving one of Home Automation’s biggest beefs!
The interface between your home automation system and you is often the worst
feature. Two new Arduino wallplates from Altronics, one with a touchscreen, look
like going a long way to solving that problem – by Tim Blythman
91 Precision Audio Signal Amplifier
You might not need it every day – unless you do testing and calibration every day
– and then you’ll wonder how you got along without it! A perfect partner for above
Audio Millivoltmeter – by Jim Rowe
Your Favourite Columns
Wow! Not one but two
new Arduino Nanos: the Every and
the 33 IoT. They might be cheap but
they’re certainly not nasty! – Page 34
A high resolution
Audio Millivoltmeter
is a “must have”
for the serious
hobbyist or
service tech
– Page 42
70 Serviceman’s Log
A shockingly cute new companion – by Dave Thompson
98 Circuit Notebook
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Three Norton (current feedback) amp based sinewave oscillators
Amplifying audio signals using a MAX232CPE serial driver chip
Multiple DS18B20 temperature sensors on a single, long wire
Loudspeaker “thump” suppressor
105 Vintage Radio
Healing M602T transistor mantel radio – by Ian Batty
Everything Else
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
39 Product Showcase
40 SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
siliconchip.com.au
102
111
112
112
Ask SILICON CHIP
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes and Errata
And here’s another
piece of test gear
if you’re really
serious! It’s a
precision Audio
Signal Amplifier
so you know your measurements
will be spot on! – Page 91
Want to get into
Home Automation?
These new “Inventa”
wallplates from
Altronics make
interfacing easier
– Page 76
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Bao Smith, B.Sc
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
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Editorial Viewpoint
Encouraging chip developments
I’m thrilled to see that Advanced Micro Devices
(AMD) are making a comeback in the desktop/notebook CPU market with their Ryzen 3000 series of processors. These have finally overtaken the latest Intel
chips in some benchmarks, and offer outstanding value for money.
I was quite concerned in 2016 when they nearly
went bankrupt, since without AMD, Intel would have
a virtual monopoly in the CPU market, with little incentive to innovate. Recall that it was AMD who released the first 64-bit x86-compatible CPU in
April 2003. Intel quickly implemented a compatible 64-bit scheme, lifting
us from the looming 4GB memory access limit.
AMD has also historically helped to keep CPU prices down. Their strategy
to compete has been to offer almost as much performance as Intel chips at
much lower prices. They also helped to popularise multi-core computing,
as their first dual-core Athlon 64 CPU was released in April 2005, a full year
before Intel brought their Core 2 Duo processor series to market.
The current ‘race’ seems to be to see who can jam the most cores on a
single chip. The current innovation is the idea of separating the chip cores
themselves and the onboard I/O controller onto separate silicon dies, and
bonding them together in a single package with very fast interconnects.
That brings the possibility of using multiple core dies in a single chip,
which is what AMD has done with the Ryzen 9 3950X, jamming 16 cores with
32 threads into a single package with a maximum ‘boost’ clock of 4.7GHz.
It’s impressive engineering and no doubt Intel is rushing to leapfrog AMD.
On a different topic, Xilinx recently announced their Virtex VU19P, a huge
new FPGA (Field Programmable Gate Array). It’s built on TSMC’s 16nm process and boasts nine million logic cells, more than 16GB of onboard memory
and 460GB/s memory bandwidth. It’s an astounding device.
This is a vast (and expensive!) chip, with a die size of around 900mm2,
capable of implementing 16 ARM Cortex A9 cores simultaneously. I’m told
the logic compile/synthesis time for a design that fills the chip is around
two days!
A device like this would be very handy for those designing moderatelysized CPUs or very large scale logic devices. It’s a lot faster to test such a device by uploading it to an FPGA and then running tests on that, compared to
software simulations. And you definitely want to test your design thoroughly
before spending millions of dollars on having ASICs (Application-Specific
ICs) made. So you’d need the latest cutting-edge FPGA.
In even more pioneering news, MIT researchers and Analog Devices recently succeeded in building a 32-bit processor called the RV16X-NANO
using carbon nanotubes. It has around 14,000 individual transistors made
from semiconducting nanotubes.
As with many other unproven new processor technologies, I am a little
sceptical as to whether this will ever catch up with traditional CMOS logic
in terms of performance at commercial scales. But the fact that a working
chip has been made means that the technology is a lot closer to production
than many other technologies, even if it runs at a rather pathetic 10kHz
clock speed.
For more information, see: siliconchip.com.au/link/aauy
Printing and Distribution:
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 3
Infrared Thermopile
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Re-Entrant Leveraged Design
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MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Tingles should not be ignored!
Regarding the letter from Howard
Maddaford on page 10 of the August
2019 issue (Mailbag), titled “Household Earthing can be dangerously inadequate”, the letter should be sounding alarm bells.
It would appear Mr Maddaford has
had an electrician inspect the installation. If the installation Earthing system, MEN and Neutral connections
have been tested and are sound, and
the fault still exists, then the electrician should seek further assistance.
To tell any client that receiving tingles from taps etc is “OK” beggars belief. A dangerous Neutral fault may
exist upstream, in the utility’s supply
network.
Although an extreme case, in March
2018, an 11-year-old girl in Perth WA
received a near-fatal electric shock
when turning off a garden tap. As a
result, she received severe brain injuries. An open-circuit Neutral was suspected as the culprit.
Now that you have published the
letter, you should inform Mr Maddaford to take further action. He should
either contact the utility supplier
Western Power or the West Australian Government Department of Energy Safety.
I expect that neither will conclude
receiving tingles/electric shocks from
taps and plumbing pipes is acceptable
and will follow up with a prompt investigation.
The reply from Nicholas was also a
little disappointing. He admits that his
Earth stake is buried in concrete and
probably not very effective (probably
quite correct). The location of this Earth
stake would likely be non-compliant.
It would be wise to get your Earth
stake relocated to an appropriate location. As was described in previous issues of Silicon Chip, due to our MEN
system, if the supply Neutral is broken
for any reason, your Earthing system
4
Silicon Chip
can be at mains potential. Your Earth
stake is the last line of defence.
Allan Doust,
Erskine, WA.
Response: we agree that nobody
should be getting ‘tingles’, except perhaps from double-insulated equipment like laptop computers and disc
players. These can sometimes deliver
small shocks due to their power supply design, which we consider unacceptable, but it isn’t hazardous; just
annoying!
Safe Earthing relies on a good Neutral
connection
In the letter “Household Earthing
can be dangerously inadequate” published in the August edition, both the
writer and editor imply that with the
MEN system, a consumer’s Earth resistance must be a low value to afford safety.
That isn’t really the case because
safe operation of the MEN system is
not dependent on fault current being
conducted through the ground; rather, the Neutral conductor in the street
provides a low impedance return path
to the supply authority’s distribution
substation, courtesy of the MEN link
which bonds Earth wires to the Neutral at consumers’ main switchboards.
Although Section 5 of AS/NZS 3000
states that a consumer’s Earth electrode should be installed in ground
that won’t dry out, there is no mandated resistance to Earth; it only stipulates that a vertical rod electrode be
at least 1.2m long.
A commonly used formula indicates that Earth resistance of a 1.2m
long, 12mm diameter electrode in average soil of 100Wm resistivity would
be 70W, hardly low enough to allow
sufficient fault current to trip a circuit breaker. And although the water
main can provide a very low resistance
to Earth, that can’t be relied on these
days due to the use of plastic piping.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The Neutral of the MEN distribution
system is Earthed at multiple points
to deal with an inherent weakness of
that system.
When load currents in the three
phases of the street mains become unbalanced, as often occurs due to changing residential loads, residual current
flows in the street Neutral, causing it
to rise above Earth.
This is counteracted by Earthing the
Neutral at many points – at every second street pole of an overhead system
and at all connected residences.
So a consumer’s Earth electrode is
not required for promotion of fault current but as a contribution, along with
all the other points of Neutral Earthing,
to keep the Neutral-Earth voltage low.
Russell Howson,
Bronte, NSW.
Response: you are absolutely right,
according to the requirements of AS/
NZS 3000 (Wiring Rules). And as you
say, this system is safe, providing the
premises has a good connection back
to the Neutral in the street.
But the question is whether this
guarantees safety should the Neutral
link fail. As you say, the local Earth
connection impedance is typically
too high to provide protection in that
case. We know that the Neutral link
can fail on occasion, due to corrosion
or other factors.
One would hope that the RCDs, now
required on virtually all circuits in new
installations, would still operate and
provide protection from shocks even
without the Neutral link and even with
a relatively high-impedance Earth connection. But we aren’t sure if that is
the case. It may depend on the exact
nature of the RCDs fitted, be they electro-mechanical or electronic.
This leaves us with a situation
where residents of older buildings
without full RCD protection are at
significant risk if the Neutral link
should fail.
siliconchip.com.au
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6
Silicon Chip
One also has to wonder how it’s
possible to drive the Earth stake into
soil which will remain moist in dry
areas of Australia which are prone
to multi-year droughts. There’s also
the question of whether Earth stakes
passing through concrete slabs (which
is fairly common) are compliant with
the standard, since the concrete may
prevent water from reaching the soil
below.
Earthing via pipes promotes corrosion
I feel I must strongly object to the
remedy suggested by your editor in response to Howard Maddaford’s letter
concerning his perceived inadequate
household Earthing.
There is an important reason for the
length of plastic pipe inserted into his
water main. The plastic is there to
isolate his plumbing to prevent copper corrosion of pipes internal to his
home. This has been mentioned as a
solution to copper corrosion in your
magazine in the past.
I and most of my family and friends,
with homes built from the ’70s with
copper pipe, have experienced copper corrosion. This necessitates the
complete replacement of their copper plumbing, often with the new
flexible plastic alternative. It has also
been linked to premature failure of
hot water services. This is obviously
expensive!
Current regulations mandate that
a separate Earth stake be provided to
Earth household wiring. That is, the
household Earth must be completely
isolated from plumbing, particularly
as there is no guarantee today of the
conductivity of internal plumbing.
Any new Earth wiring in the house
must also be insulated so as not to contact plumbing. Any new plumbing or
electrical work requires this and Mr
Maddaford’s electrician and plumber
should have been aware of this.
As to Earthing stakes, they are available in various lengths with regulations stipulating the length for Earth
condition type.
Bob Backway
Belgrave Heights, Vic.
Response: we can’t find anything in
AS/NZS 3000 which prohibits connections between the household Earth and
plumbing. It is certainly not required
but nor does it appear to be prohibited.
It would be a good idea for any metal plumbing to be Earthed separately
to the electrical system, to prevent a
Australia’s electronics magazine
hazard should it somehow come in
contact with a live Mains conductor.
We’re not sure whether that would affect corrosion resistance.
While it makes sense that current
flowing through pipes can promote
corrosion, surely this would be limited
to the area near where they meet the
ground, and not within the dwelling,
where no current should be flowing.
More comments on
safe Earthing practices
In response to Howard Maddaford’s
letter in your August issue, I believe
some misunderstandings should be
rectified.
There’s no requirement in the wiring rules for your Earth stake to be “effective”. It isn’t your Earth stake that
keeps the metalwork in your house at
ground potential.
It wasn’t a faulty Earth stake that
was the cause of the accident at Beldon
in Western Australia. It’s not a faulty
Earth stake that causes plumbers to
receive shocks when they cut pipes
without bridging them.
What keeps your house at ground
potential is a short piece of thick wire
in your switchboard that bridges your
main supply return path with:
• the Earth wires for each circuit
• any connections to your pipework
• your Earth stake
• your frame (if it’s metal)
• your slab (if applicable)
• your switchboard enclosure
What does cause shocks is a faulty
return path, for example, a break in
the Neutral conductor supplying your
house.
If you’re getting tingles, it means
that something you’re touching is not
properly Earthed and is close to a power cable. Instead of asking your electrician to check your Earth stake, you
should ask him to use a high-impedance voltmeter to test the voltage between whatever you are getting tingles
from (your feet?) and a known Earth.
Tingles should not be ignored. If the
insulation in that power cable were
to fail, there would be no return path
and your circuit protection would
not operate, creating a very dangerous situation.
Paul Smith,
King Creek, NSW.
“Cable PI” is not foolproof
On page 8 of the April 2019 issue,
in a comment on a letter from Paul
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 7
Smith, reference is made to the Tasmanian Cable PI.
This device is quite heavily touted
in Tasmania as an electrical safety device. How this product can possibly
work is beyond my ken.
I recently was asked to look at a
washing machine that gave out ‘tingles’. When I confirmed the appliance was OK and suggested that the
house Earth wiring might be at fault,
the customer stated that the house was
electrically safe because the “Cable PI
said so”.
My point is that this device leads
house-holders to believe all is well
when it may not be. It might be a
worthwhile exercise for Silicon Chip
to run their eye over the Cable PI.
Regards and thanks for an excellent
magazine.
Don Selby,
Tasmania.
Response: we agree that a simple device that plugs into a mains socket
won’t necessarily pick up all hazardous electrical faults. It appears that
the Cable PI only has connections to
the Active and Neutral, and is only capable of detecting high or low mains
voltage. Without an Earth connection,
it has no chance of detecting many of
the possible faults that may occur. Of
course, it cannot detect faults isolated
in other circuits.
This is based on: www.youtube.
com/watch?v=dvJbNqfYxeU The
video hints that there may have been
a fault with some units, but even the
one shown in the official Tas Networks
video has no Earth pin.
Remarks on valve filament voltages
In Graham Parslow’s Vintage Radio article on the Kriesler model 31-2
which you published in the September 2019 issue, on page 117, he states:
“Although the 1-series of valves
nominally work with 1V across their
filament, they need at least 1.5V for
good performance.”
I disagree with this statement and
think that it is likely to lead to confusion. Typical 1-series valves specify a
filament voltage of either 1.4V or 2.0V.
None of them have a specification as
low as 1V. (anonymous, via email)
Graham Parslow responds: This assertion is drawn from my own repeated
experience on the bench.
Portable radios show a fairly linear decrease in output as the filament
voltage is reduced to 1V. Radio man-
8
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
ufacturers specify 1.5V be connected
because that is the default voltage
of a fresh carbon-zinc battery. Valve
manufacturers issue 1.4V as the lowest specified voltage for most of these
valves, but that doesn’t mean that they
won’t work at all at 1V.
Ian Batty adds: I have personally tested portables kitted out with B7G miniatures designated 1R5, 1T4, 1S5, 1S4
etc. While they are specified for a filament voltage of 1.4V, I have been able
to lower the filament supply to 1.0V
and still have the sets work, albeit with
reduced sensitivity and output.
Perhaps Graham could have
phrased that sentence a little better,
but I do not think that it is wrong as
such. In any case, as Albert Einstein
said, the only sure way to avoid making mistakes is to have no new ideas.
While we’re on the subject, it may
be worth explaining valve numbering
schemes. The earliest Radio Manufacturer Association issues simply went
up in numerical order, for example: 10,
11, 12, 15, 27, 43, 55 etc. There was no
indication of cathode type (filament or
heater) and no indication of voltage.
Running out of type numbers (and
probably aiming for some useful coding), the RMA chose the code NXN,
with the first N as cathode voltage,
X as a distinguishing letter, and the
second N as the number of active
electrodes.
Thus we got the 2A3, a 2.5V, threeelectrode type (triode). And “2” was
applied to 2.5V AC-heated valves, using either an indirectly-heated cathode, or designed with a high-mass filament that would eliminate the hum
usually caused by heating a filament
with AC. Some of the original “number code” types were re-issued, such
as 2A7, 2B7 etc.
But car radio types would most easily operate at the nominal voltage of
a 6V battery, so many of the original
“number series” were re-issued in
that form, such as the 6A7 re-issue
of the 2A7.
Valves for portable sets running
from a single 2V accumulator caused
a problem, though. Naming them 2XN
would lead to confusion. Was a “2C7”
pentagrid a 2.5V valve? If so, it was
not going to work too well with a 2V
accumulator supply. So these were issued as 1A7. That made it evident that
it was not a 2.5V type, so it had to be,
once you got used to the nomenclature, a 2V battery type.
siliconchip.com.au
As for the B7G all-glass types, with 1.5V filaments, the
only realistic option was to name then 1XN, such as the
1R5, 1T4 etc.
Perhaps this is a bit confusing, but in reality, the entire
RMA/RETMA naming scheme is a bit of a mess. Why is
a duo-diode (four-element valve) named 6H6? Why is a
pentode (five elements) named 6AC7/6SH7/6J7? And why
is the 6A7 a pentagrid; surely, if the pentodes have two
magical “extra” electrodes, the pentagrid should be a 6A9!
Fluidics in nature
Dr David Maddison’s article in the August 2019 issue on
Fluid Logic and Fluidics mentioned a 1960 article on the
subject. I recall reading that article well, because a few years
before, I had seen an example of ‘fluidics’ on a relatively
large scale in Manilla NSW, the town where I was born.
The Namoi river flows around part of the town, and there
is a point where the Manilla river enters it at an acute angle,
on the outside of the curve. If both rivers are high at the
same time, the Manilla River (the lesser stream) can effectively ‘cut off’ the Namoi, leading to flooding in the town.
I suggest this is an excellent example of fluidics in action, courtesy of Mother Nature.
Thank you for an always stimulating magazine.
Bruce Bowman,
Canberra ACT.
Appreciative of Silicon Chip shortlinks
I’d like to say a big “thank you” to the person at SiliChip who came up with the idea of the hot links you
include in most articles. For far too long my little fat fingers have managed to enter a wrong website address –
especially one with lots of letter and numbers – and my
browser comes back with the dreaded “404” message. It’s
so much easier with the hot link.
Edison Zhang,
Chippendale, NSW.
Glad you like them! It was actually due to a reader sending us an email with the exact same worries back in 2017
that got us to change to using shortlinks. We now convert
most URLs to a shortlink (eg, siliconchip.com.au/link/
abcd). By the way, in the online version of Silicon Chip it’s
even easier; just click on the hotlink and you’ll be taken
to the right page.
con
Touchscreen backlight control variations
I recently completed the Touchscreen Altimeter (December 2017; siliconchip.com.au/Article/10898) with
parts that I bought from your online shop, including the
Micromite V2 BackPack kit which came with the touchscreen. I thought I would let you know about a few minor
problems I ran into building it, which I was able to resolve.
Firstly, the socket supplied for the Microbridge was a 16pin DIL type, but it uses a 14-pin IC. Secondly, the 100W
backlight brightness control pot specified in the article
(not supplied in the kit) does not adjust the brightness. I
found that I had to use a 100kW pot. Perhaps the newer
touchscreens have a different specification?
Finally, the screws for attaching the laser-cut lid panel
are not long enough to grip. I drilled and tapped the UB3
bosses and used machine screws.
Peter Bennett,
Beacon Hill, NSW
10
Silicon Chip
Response: Thanks for letting us know about the problems
you ran into.
One of our suppliers sent us a mixed pack of 14-pin
& 16-pin sockets when we ordered the 14-pin types. We
tried to separate them but must have missed some. Sorry
about that.
We find that the screws supplied with Jaycar UB3 Jiffy
boxes are just long enough to go through the 3mm panels.
But boxes from other suppliers come with shorter screws
that may not do the job.
We redesigned the lid for the V3 BackPack (August 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11764) so that it fits inside the
box, rather than over it. That solves this problem at the
expense of slightly less room inside the box.
You may be right that the touchscreens we’re receiving now could be different from those we got in the past,
even though we are ordering the same parts from the same
supplier.
It seems that the backlight control pin may no longer directly drive the backlight cathode, but instead is a control
input to an onboard backlight LED switching transistor.
That would explain why you had to change the backlight control potentiometer value so radically. We think
that the 3.5-inch touchscreens used in the V3 BackPack
may use a similar scheme. The good news is that the
PWM backlight control circuitry seems to work the same
regardless.
We’ll look out for this variation in future. Your solution
of using a higher-value potentiometer may well be the best
one, for those who require manual backlight control (eg,
when a project uses the backlight PWM pin for another
purpose).
Carnarvon’s role in the moon landings
I had a quick read of the latest issue of Silicon Chip
which arrived today. Your bumper issue reminds me of
the times when Electronics Australia occasionally would
go wild with larger issues.
I wish to add to Alan Hughes’ comment on Carnarvon
being used for telemetry (Mailbag, September 2019, page
8). The most important role of the station at Carnarvon
was to provide TV coverage of the moon landing to those
of us living in WA at the time.
If I remember correctly, a fair bit of time and effort was
expended to get us the pictures. We were quite isolated
over there in the west then.
There was also a NASA ground station at Cooby Creek,
north of Toowoomba, which played a role in the landing
too. See: http://siliconchip.com.au/link/aau6
Brian Playne,
Toowoomba, Qld.
Making an inverter isolator is tough
The High Current Solid State 12V Battery Isolator by
Bruce Boardman in the July 2019 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11699) is an interesting project and the seed for
other potential projects.
I have been testing some “high current” solid-state relays, but I have experienced a 100% failure for the task of
isolating a 24V, 2.5kW Inverter. The problem is the initial
surge current due to the large input capacitance most inverters contain.
Initial current limiting is needed to create a soft-start
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
mode, or I will have to find an extremely rugged solidstate switch. A challenge for you, Bruce!
Alan Bothe,
Manly, Queensland.
Response: you could consider combining Bruce’s Isolator or
a solid-state relay with something akin to our Soft Starter
(April 2012; siliconchip.com.au/Article/705).
While that was designed for mains appliances, the principle would be much the same. You could switch in a highpower resistor using a smaller relay initially, to charge the
caps, then short out both with a larger relay a few hundred
milliseconds later.
Are mains projects being avoided?
Back in your Editorial Viewpoint in April 2019, you
mentioned that you had a letter from the NSW Fair Trading regarding electrical safety.
As an Electrical Engineer, I have noticed over the years
that there has been a tightening of regulations. For example, in South Australia, when I first graduated in 1982,
my boss (an Electrical Engineer) had to sit a ‘wiring rules’
course to get his Electrical Contracting License.
A few years later, when I enquired, I could only get a
restricted B-class license for commissioning and working
on my own home. A short time later, I had to sit a fouryear apprenticeship!
I am based in SA, but at times, I work on projects that are
installed in Queensland. I need a RPEQ (Registered Professional Engineer of Queensland) certification to design,
but cannot install, or even ‘commission’ these systems.
I have noted recently that the subject has been rather
quiet in Silicon Chip and also there have been few mainspowered projects published of late. Is this intentional?
Have the ‘nannies’ won? Has Silicon Chip been forced
into ELV (extra low voltage) only?
I would be disappointed you are not allowed to publish projects that work at LV; how else will people learn?
Employing Electrical Engineers these days is a problem as
many do not have a hobby background. When I interview,
one of my first questions for a new graduate is: “see that electrical socket on the wall, what voltage would you expect?”
The purpose of this question is two-fold; one, to test
knowledge; and two, to test curiosity about things electrical. Many graduates struggle with this basic question. I
see this getting worse for various reasons: cheap imports,
non-repairable equipment, easy to get answers from Google, lack of hobbies in this area etc
Thank you for the Silicon Chip magazine, and I hope
it survives many more years, complete with LV projects.
Lindsay Freund,
Para Vista, SA.
Response: the recent dearth of mains-based projects is not
intentional. John Clarke, our technical editor, says that
publishing such projects is both legal and safe so long
as our designs and instructions comply with the relevant
safety standards.
We do have a mains-powered project in this issue, specifically, the Bench Supply starting on page 22. This is a
relatively simple project, and safe for beginners as long
as they follow the instructions carefully.
We don’t publish quite as many mains-based projects as
we used to, mainly due to changes in the sort of designs
that people are interested in these days.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 11
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
CYBER ESPIONAGE
AND CYBER WEAPONS
Part 2 – electronic devices for spying and surveillance
by Dr David Maddison
L
ast month, we described many ‘side-channel attacks’
which can take advantage of the vulnerabilities in
electronic devices (eg, unwanted electromagnetic,
visible or acoustic emissions). These can be used by third
parties to extract information that they are not supposed
to have access to.
We also had a section describing scenarios (real or theoretical) where hardware can or has been modified to make
it easier to ‘hack’ and extract secret information.
This month, we’ll cover the remaining electronic espionage techniques, primarily methods for eavesdropping,
secretly recording video or extracting information from secure systems. Again, we will start with the earliest known
techniques, although many of those described below are
general techniques with their use spanning many decades.
ELECTRONIC BUGGING AND
SPYING TECHNIQUES
Interception of telegraph communications
Possibly the earliest use of military eavesdropping is
from 1862. During the US Civil War, President Abraham
Fig.20: Léon Theremin (1896-1993) at work on one of his
electronic devices. See SILICON CHIP, January 2018
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10931) for details on the
musical instrument he invented, also using radio principles.
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Silicon Chip
Lincoln agreed to a request from his Secretary of War,
Edwin M. Stanton, to allow rerouting of telegraph lines
through his office.
This let him intercept vast amounts of personal, journalistic and government information. The telegraph system
back then was a bit like the internet today.
Léon Theremin’s infrared microphone
Russian Lev Termen, (or Léon Theremin as he was known
in the west) invented the precursor to the laser microphone
some time between 1938 and 1947 (see Fig.20).
His device used an infrared beam and was called the
Buran. It was capable of listening to conversations at a
much greater distance than usual.
He invented it for the NKVD (KGB) after being removed
from a labour camp for counter-revolutionaries and was
forced to work for them in a secret laboratory. He also invented “The Thing”, a microwave microphone which was
first used in 1945.
Theremin’s “The Thing” (US Embassy, Moscow)
“The Thing” was an ingenious invention by Léon
Fig.21: an exploded diagram showing how the bug in “The
Thing” worked. It was hidden inside the Great Seal.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.22: a cross-section of “The Thing”
from the book “CIA Special Weapons &
Equipment: Spy Devices of the Cold War”.
Fig.23 (right): one of the most famous
(infamous?) bugs ever made: Leon
Theremin’s “The Thing”, a gift from the
Soviet Union to the United States for
their embassy in Moscow. The intricate
US Great Seal actually concealed a
listening device and was in use from
1945 until its discovery in 1952. This
museum replica version can be opened
to reveal the bug inside.
Theremin; a bugging device found in the US Embassy in
Moscow. It was a gift from the Soviets to the USA in the
form of a carved timber Great Seal of the United States.
Such was the genius of Theremin, it was in operation from
1945 until it was accidentally discovered in 1952. A passive device, it required no power to operate (see Figs.21-23).
It was a passive cavity resonator that obtained its power
from outside via illumination with microwaves at 330MHz.
There were no electronic components. The working parts
comprised a resonating metal membrane, a mushroomshaped disc against which the resonating membrane was
capacitively coupled, a silver-plated high-Q (high gain)
cavity, a tuning device, and an antenna.
In essence, audio caused the membrane to move as in a
standard microphone, and this modulated the radio waves
that were illuminating the device. Specific details as to
how the device worked can be found at: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aass
In 1951, a British radio operator monitoring the Soviet
Air Force from the British Embassy in Moscow heard the
voice of the British Air Attaché, but could not find the bug.
In 1952, a US radio operator picked up a conversation that
appeared to come from the US Embassy and then the bug
was discovered.
The CIA and FBI initially had no idea how the bug
worked and it took British Marconi employee Peter Wright to
Fig.24: the CIA’s “Acoustic Kitty”, showing the location of
the implanted electronics. The program was not a success.
Fig.25: the CIA Insectothopter from the 1970s, as displayed
in the CIA museum. It was never put into service but was a
remarkable achievement.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 13
tion of various governments or companies using non-invasive probes on the cable. See the section below on optical
fibre tapping.
According to Amnesty International, the UK intelligence
agency GCHQ (Government Communications Headquarters)
has 40,000 search terms and the US NSA (National Security Agency) has 31,000 terms of interest that they look for
when routinely scanning communications over cables or
elsewhere.
Micro- and nano-sized aircraft
Fig.26: the carrying case and instructions for the CIA
Insectothopter.
figure it out. He spent many hours of his own time to work
it out, as recounted in the book “Spycatcher”. See the video
titled “UN Spy Debate, Reds ‘Bugged’ American Embassy
1960/5/27” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aast
Animals with electronic bugs
In the early 1960s, the US CIA spent an estimated US$10$20 million on the “Acoustic Kitty”. This was a cat that had
been surgically implanted with a transmitting device. The
idea was for the cat to go close to its desired target (Soviets) and transmit their conversations (Fig.24).
The program was not a success, as the cat would not
behave as required, especially when hungry. The cat in
question had the equipment removed and went on to live
a long and happy life. The program was cancelled in 1967
and disclosed in 2001.
Covert connection to undersea cables
In a famous incident in the 1970s, the USA tapped into
a Soviet military undersea cable. The nuclear-powered listening device used was non-invasive and employed inductive coupling to read the information travelling through the
cable. It would not have been found, except for a US traitor
who sold the information to the Soviets.
You can read more about “Operation Ivy Bells” in the
article on Nuclear Submarines in SILICON CHIP, December
2016 at: siliconchip.com.au/Article/10459
Underwater covert intercepts can be most easily made
on undersea cables at regeneration points, ie, locations that
contain amplifiers and signal conditioning equipment in
which the optical fibres are unbundled. However, logistically, it is still extremely difficult.
It has now been disclosed that most intercepts occur at
the land termination stations of cables, with the coopera14
Silicon Chip
The CIA developed a remarkable device in 1970, called
the Insectothopter. It was a bug (literally) that could fly to
its destination, whereupon it was meant to sit and listen
(see Figs.25 & 26). It used a hydrogen peroxide motor based
on a fluidic oscillator (see the article on Fluidics in the August 2019 issue for more details).
The device was the size of a dragonfly (6cm long, with a
wingspan of 9cm) and had a flight time of 60 seconds and
a range of 200m. The launch weight was one gram and the
device was made by a watchmaker.
But it was found to be unable to withstand even the most
minor crosswind, so the project was abandoned.
The audio data it would have collected was transmitted
via a laser beam. The same laser beam that was used for
audio transmission was also directed at a bimetallic strip
in the tail for guidance. While there is little information
on the source of this laser, one assumes that it was external to the device and that audio was returned via the laser
bouncing off the device, modulating the beam with audio
(like a laser microphone).
For more information, see the videos titled “Official
CIA video ‘Insectothopter: The Bug-Carrying Bug’” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aasu and “The Insectothopter: The
CIA’s dragonfly spy drone from the 1970s” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aasv
A more modern take on this idea is the Black Hornet
Nano (Fig.27), developed by Prox Dynamics of Norway
(now owned by USA company FLIR Systems), a nano-UAS
(unmanned aerial system) reconnaissance drone in use by
the armed forces and counter-terrorist organisations of the
United States, France, the United Kingdom, Germany, Australia, Norway, the Netherlands and India.
This UAS weighs 18g, can fly at a speed up to 18km/h up to
1500m from the controller and can fly for 20-25 minutes and
transmit live video, or still images, including night vision.
There is a later version of the device in use by the USA,
Fig.27: an Australian Army soldier with a PD-100 Black
Hornet Nano.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
hackers of Chinese origin stealing plans for the building.
This included details of communications cabling, server
locations, floor plans and security systems.
These claims were denied by Government spokesmen
at the time, but the opening of the building was delayed
nevertheless, and Four Corners stuck to its story and the
credibility of its source. The original ABC Four Corners
program, “Hacked!”, can be seen here: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aasy
Theft of intellectual property and
military information
the Black Hornet III, with more advanced video and other
capabilities which weighs 32g, with a range of 2000m and
a speed of 20-25km/h.
The Nano is extremely expensive, at US$190,000 per kit!
For more details, see the video titled “Introducing the FLIR
Black Hornet 3” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aasw
Of course, there are numerous examples of the theft of
intellectual property and military information. Here is one
example: Adelaide company Codan (https://codan.com.au/)
make metal detectors and a wide variety of other high-quality equipment including secure radios for the Australian
military and our allies.
They had their computers hacked and their intellectual
property stolen. The attack apparently involved Chinese
hackers who gained access to an executive’s laptop after
he logged into a hotel WiFi system in China.
They inserted malware specifically designed to target the
company’s files when the executive returned to Australia.
The hackers used the stolen files to make cheap counterfeit
copies of their metal detectors, which were sold in Africa.
Further information on this hack is available in the same
Four Corners video linked above.
Buildings bugged during construction
Stuxnet
When a new US Embassy was to be built in Moscow, starting in 1979, American negotiators made the colossal mistake of allowing the Soviets to design and build it.
Despite early warnings by US experts about possible or
likely bugging, work continued even though the construction work being done was of low quality and plagued with
problems.
Starting in 1982, the building was inspected using X-ray
and other techniques, and it was found to be riddled with
eavesdropping devices and cables built into the structure,
including resonating devices that could work indefinitely
for years without their own power (as used in “The Thing”,
described earlier).
There were also many decoy devices.
By 1985, it was becoming apparent that the listening devices couldn’t be easily removed and in 1987, it was decided to demolish most of the new building.
It wasn’t until 2000 that the matter was fully resolved and
a new section of the building designed for classified work
was completed. See the video titled “27th October 1988:
Ronald Reagan halts construction of the Moscow embassy”
at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aasx
In 1995, the ABC and the Sydney Morning Herald revealed
that in a joint Australian/US operation, optic fibre bugging
devices of an unspecified nature had been installed during
the construction of the Chinese Embassy in Canberra in the
1980s. It seems the Chinese returned the favour when they
allegedly stole the plans for the new ASIO headquarters.
Stuxnet was a malicious computer worm and cyberweapon that was responsible for the partial destruction of
Iran’s nuclear weapons program in 2010. It was installed
on the target computer systems by breaching the “air gap”
of the non-network connected systems via an infected USB
memory device. The worm worked as follows:
It installed itself in the Windows operating system as a
‘rootkit’. This is a malicious program that gets unauthorised
access to parts of the operating system that are not usually
allowed by normal programs.
This would typically be detected and prohibited, but it
installed itself undetected using the stolen private security
keys from two highly-trusted companies that write software
for Windows. Thus, there were no alarms.
Fig.28: this widely-circulated picture is said to be of a
“mosquito drone” that can take a DNA sample from a
person or leave an RFID device on their skin. While similar
devices will almost certainly be available one day, this
photo was a conceptual mock-up only, not a real device.
Theft of building plans
In May 2013, it was claimed on ABC’s Four Corners program that ASIO’s new headquarters in Canberra, under construction at the time, was compromised due to computer
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.29: a sample of the Stuxnet code.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 15
Fig.31: the industry-standard
Sennheiser MKH 416-P48U3, an example
of a shotgun microphone for directional audio
pickup (although not explicitly intended for espionage).
Note the phase-interference slots along the sides.
Fig.30: a Google Earth image of the bin Laden compound. It
attracted attention because of its absence of communications
devices or connections, compared to its neighbours.
Once Stuxnet was installed, it gained access to the PLCs
or programmable logic controllers which were connected
to the computer and used to control the uranium centrifuges for making weapons-grade uranium.
It then changed the program libraries in the PLCs in a
way that if the legitimate operator attempted to change any
routine, they would think they had done so, but Stuxnet
would continue to operate in the way intended.
This meant that no one could tell that anything was
wrong. The new program libraries also prohibited any attempt to read or delete the Stuxnet code, even if it was
detected.
Stuxnet sat silently on infected systems for about 30 days,
gathering information and preparing for the final attack. It
allowed the regular code to run on the PLCs most of the
time, but occasionally changed the code. This slow, subtle operation meant that as far as the user was concerned,
the system was operating more or less normally, but with
a higher number of breakdowns than usual.
Stuxnet destroyed machinery by altering both the speed
and pressure of over 5000 uranium centrifuges. Centrifuges
which typically operated at constant speed were made to
alternately run very fast and then very slow, which interfered with the uranium separation process and also caused
long-term damage to the machines.
Stuxnet also caused some pressure relief valves of the
centrifuges to remain closed when they should have been
open, causing dangerous and destructive over-pressures.
The Iranians suspected nothing until a large number of
machines (about 1000) had been destroyed.
For those interested, the Stuxnet code can be viewed at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aasz (a snippet is shown in Fig.29).
An analysis of how the worm works is at: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aasz
Catching Osama bin Laden
The ex-terrorist Osama bin Laden was extremely paranoid about being bugged or tracked by electronic devices
and therefore he did not even wear an electronic watch or
use a mobile or satellite phone.
Apart from reports from people “in the field”, one of
the things that eventually gave away his location was his
“presence by absence”. In an area of mansions and wealthy
homes, his compound was notable for its lack of telephone
and internet service (see Fig.30).
Bin Laden is even known to have been concerned that
one of his wives might have had a bug implanted in her
tooth after a visit to the dentist. But ironically, in the end
it wasn’t a bug that led to his downfall, it was his extreme
paranoia about . . . bugs!
Acoustic microphones
Conversations can be recorded at a distance with an appropriate microphone. Apart from common uses such as
recording bird calls, a parabolic dish microphone can be
used to record conversations from afar.
But they have poor low-frequency response due to their
Fig.32: the AMPFLAB (http://ampflab.com/) X64ACS phasedarray microphone comprising 64 separate microphones. It
is 38cm x 26cm and is claimed to receive human speech at
ranges of up to 150m (or greater) without background noise.
It has a noiseless acoustic gain of 26dB at 1kHz.
16
Silicon Chip
Fig.33: this 2015 photo is from
a company that specialises in
‘tear-downs’ of commercial
devices for industrial
competitors. It shows the
Cirrus Logic WM1706 MEMs
(micro-electromechanical
system) microphone and
associated circuitry for
use in portable devices
such as phones. It would
be suitable for espionage
devices due to its small size.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.35: a typical usage scenario for a laser microphone.
can be easily hidden. See the section on Bugs below for
more details on hidden microphones.
Laser microphones
Fig.34: the commercially-available EMAX-3100 remote
laser audio monitoring system showing the laser, receiver
and computer.
relatively small size compared with the wavelengths of
typical speech. Acoustic array, shotgun (Fig.31) or phased
array (Fig.32) microphones are alternatives.
Shotgun microphones consist of a long tube where sounds
from the intended target arrive directly at the microphone
element and unwanted, off-axis sounds are absorbed in the
sides of the tube by phase-interference slots. See the educational video on using a shotgun microphone titled “How
To Record Audio - Shotgun Microphone” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aat0
Microscopic microphones, like the one shown in Fig.33,
A laser microphone or laser-based listening system is an
audio eavesdropping device that uses a laser beam which
is directed onto a rigid vibrating object, such as a window
pane, at the target location. The audio modulates the reflected beam, which is picked up and converted back to
sound at the remote site (see Figs.34 & 35).
The concept was developed by Léon Theremin who
used an infrared beam (as mentioned above), before lasers
were invented. The system can be defeated by attaching a
transducer to a window pane to play music or other noise,
masking the conversation, or by playing noise or music in
the room to be protected.
The system can be ineffective with rain and snow, and
the beam from the laser is detectable. These systems were
very popular in the 1980s and 1990s, but less so now with
the multitude of other espionage options available.
Bugs
The number of bugs available, both commercial and
home-built, are too numerous to list but here are a few
common examples. Of course, we don’t know much about
the bugs used by government intelligence agencies, but
they would be at least as capable as these, probably much
more so.
Many bugs now also have a SIM card to connect to the
Fig.36: this is claimed to be the world’s smallest UHF FM
bug, which transmits at 420MHz with a claimed range
of 250-300m. It is 15mm in diameter and 5mm thick,
including its CR1220 battery, and has a working time of
5-10 hours. The antenna is 10cm long, and it is available
on eBay for about $75.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.37: the EDIC Mini Tiny+ A77 is a voice recording
device can record continuously for 55 hours and can
be activated by a switch, voice activation or by a
programmed schedule. It is of Russian origin. One online
seller lists it for US$339.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 17
Fig.39: a bug with its own SIM card, to connect to a mobile
phone network, hidden in a plugpack.
Fig.38: an example of a “Mini GPS Tracker” widely available
on eBay, intended to track children and pets. But it could
be used to track anything or anyone of interest. A SIM
card is put in the device and audio near the device can be
heard remotely, plus its location tracked. It can be remotely
operated by another phone and is claimed to have a standby
time of 12 days and a working time of 4-6 days. This
particular example was on eBay for UK£14.99.
mobile phone network, so it is not necessary to receive any
direct radio transmission from the device. It is only necessary to dial into the device from anywhere to hear what’s
going on, subject to enough battery power or a permanent
power connection.
Figs.36-40 show five very capable and readily available
bugs. Some of them are quite cheap, while others are definitely not (but are very capable).
Bugging the personal possessions of a target is a common espionage method, and bugs have been installed in
just about anything you can imagine, including shoes. In
1995, two crooked NSW police offers were famously caught
pocketing bribes on a camera hidden in their car dashboard.
See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aat1
In a more recent case, last year, a drug dealer was arrested after a hidden camera in his apartment proved that
he was selling cocaine. See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aat2
To prove that this sort of bugging is nothing new, here’s an
article from the March 1964 issue of Time magazine about
bugging, including video and audio feeds: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aat3
Bug detectors
There are a very many bug detectors on the market, from
very cheap to very expensive (see Fig.41 for one readily
available example).
Apart from visual inspections, bugs are typically found
by detecting RF emissions (if the bug transmits) or by detecting reflections from camera lenses.
The problem with RF emissions is that the RF spectrum is very busy these days, and it is not always easy to
determine whether detected transmissions are legitimate
or not. Also, such devices will not detect recording bugs.
Non-linear junction detectors (described last month) can
detect the presence of electronic devices, but these can be
easily defeated, as is done in professional bugs.
Fig.40: an 800-line
colour CCTV camera
with audio, disguised as a screw,
found on eBay for under AU$20 delivered.
18
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.41: a consumer-grade RF and
video camera bug detector, this
one available from Jaycar. Most
simply detect RF emissions given
off by bugs; the problem is that
more “professional” bugs do not!
siliconchip.com.au
We expect that professional bugs would also incorporate
measures against the latest detection technologies.
Key loggers (hardware)
Besides malware (ie, surreptitiously installed software
with bad intentions), there are numerous hardware USB
key logging devices available. These plug into a computer’s
USB port, internal or external. An external device may not
be noticed if it is at the back of a desktop machine.
These devices log the user’s keystrokes (with time stamp
if desired), and the data can be retrieved by physically removing the device; some devices that can be accessed via
WiFi; some are stealth devices disguised as regular cables,
Ethernet connectors, keyboard connectors or RS-232 devices.
Some can even emulate the slight movement of a mouse
to prevent the computer from going to sleep, presumably
to keep the computer susceptible to other forms of attack.
Optical fibre tapping
Fibre tapping or interception of optical fibre communications is another category of cable interception. Contrary
to popular belief, if a fibre optic cable is physically accessible, it is relatively easy to intercept communications carried within it if they are unencrypted (or encrypted and the
interested party has the tools to decrypt them).
This type of interception will probably never be detected unless someone is specifically looking for some small
amount of signal attenuation on the fibre.
Note that one would need a sufficient amount of cable
slack and be able to open the cable jacket without damaging any of the fibres contained therein. This requires a bit
Spy Museums
The International Spy Museum in Washington, DC, is well
worth a visit (www.spymuseum.org).
The CIA has its own museum, although it is not open to the
public. It can, however, be experienced online at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aat9
The US NSA also has a National Cryptologic Museum located
in Maryland. See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aata
Spyscape is a private museum in New York City (https://
spyscape.com/).
Other spy museums are listed at: siliconchip.com.au/
link/aatb
Sadly, Australia appears to have no espionage-related museums.
of skill and good luck.
The intercepted data can then be examined with a network traffic analyser like Wireshark (www.wireshark.org).
See Figs.42&43 and the video titled “How to Hack an
Optical Fiber.wmv” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aat4
One example of a significant optical fibre tapping facility is room 641A at the SBC Communications building at
611 Folsom Street, San Francisco.
This room is fed by fibre-optic lines connected via beamsplitters to major Internet backbone networks and therefore
has “the capability to enable surveillance and analysis of
Internet content on a massive scale, including both overseas and purely domestic traffic” (see Fig.45).
DIY Spy
Here are some DIY ideas to demonstrate some general espionage techniques.
Note that ‘spying’ on someone without their permission is almost certainly illegal in all cases, so only test these ideas with
the full permission, knowledge and cooperation of the subject(s).
As for the use of any type of transmitter without the appropriate license, you would have to establish the legality for yourself,
although compliant low-power FM transmitters for in-car or inhouse use and the like are readily available from major Australian retailers.
• Build the “Sooper Snooper” parabolic dish microphone, described in SILICON CHIP, September 2001 (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/4152).
• See the distribution of WiFi points in an area and map them,
as explained in the video titled “Building a Camera That Can
See Wifi | Part 3 SUCCESS!” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatc
• “See” through walls with a commercially available device, and also detect motion on the other side of the wall.
See the video titled “How To Use Your Smartphone to
See Through Walls! Superman’s X-ray Vision Challenge” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aatd
• Build a bug using the instructions in the video titled “Let’s build
the world’s smallest Surveillance Spy Bug.” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aate
siliconchip.com.au
• You can buy the world’s smallest consumer FPV (first person
view) live streaming HD drone, the VIDIUS by Aerix. It can surveil
an area of interest, with video transmitted back to the user. It is
4.3 x 4.3 x 2.5cm in size with a battery life of around five minutes.
See the video titled “Smallest FPV drone VIDIUS - World’s
Smallest FPV Drone by Aerix Drones” at: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aatf
• Build a device which claims to detect if the microphone in
your smartphone has been activated by an unauthorised party.
See the video titled “Make your own smartphone spy detector for less than 10$ !!” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatg
• Use your computer monitor and a radio to play music,
demonstrating how hardware can be used for purposes that it was never designed for, to breach an “air gap”.
See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aath and the video at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aati
• Build your own laser microphone, using the instructions at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aatj or siliconchip.com.au/link/aatk
• Also see the videos titled “Fast Hacks #6 - Laser Spy Microphone” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatl and “Laser Spy PhotoResistor test” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatm
• Browse the large archive of material on passive resonant cavity devices at the following link, including quotes from “Spycatcher”: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatn
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 19
Fig.42: a means by which optical fibres are non-invasively
tapped. The cladding is exposed, a partial loop is created
and a small amount of light leaks from the loop (1%), which
is then read by a photo-detector and appropriate software.
As of 2006, it was believed to contain a NarusInsight supercomputer which can analyse internet data streams and
track individual users to determine what they are doing,
including checking the content of emails and messages. It
can also make associations between users who visit certain websites and/or use certain words or phrases in their
emails or messages.
It can monitor the combined traffic of several million
broadband users and the software can store their internet
activity for later analysis. Note, that was in 2006 and revealed only due to an Electronic Frontier Foundation lawsuit. One wonders what the capability is today!
Range-R through-wall radar
The Range-R from L3 Technologies (Fig.46) is a throughwall radar for police and military use that can detect the
range and number of people behind a solid non-metallic
wall. It does not show images of people, but is akin to an
advanced wall-stud finder that indicates the number of
people and their range, and even their rate of breathing,
from behind a brick or concrete wall.
It uses the Doppler effect to sense motion, stepped-
Fig.43: the commercially-available FOD 5503 non-invasive
clip-on coupler for bi-directional coupling into 25-micron
coated single-mode fibres. It has legitimate purposes for
testing, cable identification and linking into cables where no
termination is available but could also be used for espionage.
frequency continuous-wave radar technology and proprietary target detection algorithms. It is said to be in use by
50 US police departments and has raised legal controversy
about its warrantless use. See the video titled “Police surveillance: Privacy invading Range-R radar gives cops ability to ‘see’ through walls” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aat5
Using WiFi signals for through-wall imaging
Researchers at the Computer Science and Artificial Intelligence Laboratory (CSAIL) at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) have been able to use WiFi-like
signals to observe people through plasterboard (‘Gyprock’)
walls, although the imagery is very blob-like – see Fig.44.
They have used artificial intelligence to turn the resulting
blobs into stick figures resembling a person. See the video
titled “AI Senses People Through Walls” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aat6 and “Seeing through walls - MIT’s Lincoln
Laboratory” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aat7
Researchers at CSAIL have also produced human-like
imagery through walls. They used a system with 13 transmitting antennas and eight receiving antennas operating in
the S-band (2-4GHz) to image at people on the other side
Fig.44: the results of through-wall imaging in the S-band by the MIT Lincoln Lab system. Even though the images don’t
resemble actual people, they can be used to determining the number and location of those present.
20
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Jack Hack in a Box: Warshipping,
where the packaging IS the spy!
Fig.45: Room 641A at the SBC Communications building at
611 Folsom Street, San Francisco. It is a 7.3m x 14.6m facility
run by the US National Security Agency and is fed by fibreoptic lines connected via beam-splitters to major Internet
backbone networks. Image credit: Mark Klein, Creative
Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported License.
of solid concrete walls at 10.4 frames per second.
The system is described as an ultra-wideband multipleinput multiple output (MIMO) phased array radar. The RF
received from the target is only 0.0025% of the transmitted signal, and the range of the system is about 20m from
the wall. An application of this is for military or intelligence use to see the number and location of individuals
in a building.
See Fig.47 and the video titled “Capturing a Human
Figure Through a Wall using RF Signals” at: siliconchip.
SC
com.au/link/aat8
Fig.46: the Range-R
through-wall hand-held
radar unit
Fig.47: here, CSAIL researchers are demonstrating
detecting the location and movement of people through
plaster walls using 2.4GHz radar.
siliconchip.com.au
As we went to press, a report appeared on the Ars
Technica website (www.arstechnica.com) about a new
development in industrial espionage: “warshipping”.
You’d probably be aware of the term “WarDriving”
where people drive around searching for vulnerable
WiFi networks they can tap into.
Warshipping is different: it involves hiding the search
device inside packaging that is legitimately being delivered to a target.
Not just in the box, it’s actually built inside the cardboard walls of the package. Hidden circuitry (much of it
off-the-shelf) is secreted which will find vulnerabilities
in the target’s wireless network, hack into them then
start transmitting secrets using, for example, a built-in
cellular phone modem.
Many organisations have very strict rules about
bringing mobile phones onto their premises in order
to maintain tight security. But those same companies
wouldn’t think twice about a courier turning up with
a delivery for Mr ….......
It goes to show just how much trouble people will
go to when they believe the information they seek is
worth the effort!
Using less than $100 worth of gear—including a
Raspberry Pi Zero W, a small battery, and a cellular modem—IBM’s X-Force Red team assembled a mobile attack platform that fit neatly within a cardboard spacer
they dropped into a shipping box. It could also be embedded in objects such as a stuffed animal or a plaque.
X-Force head Charles Henderson noted. “The thing
that’s cool about this is, this is the wall of the box. It
can be easily built into the cardboard. If you get a phone
shipped to you, you’re suspicious of it.”
But no-one would (at least until now!) be suspicious
of the box that phone came in. Or in a myriad of other
devices – even things like WiFi routers or wall-mounted power supplies with “hidden extras.”
Even companies who routinely open and inspect deliveries can be (and have been) tricked into accepting a
warshipping package. Even if they thoroughly examine
the contents, they don’t suspect the box itself!
There’s a lot more information in the Ars Technica
story – it’s well worth a read.
You can get to it via siliconchip.com.au/link/aauz
Actual warshipping components
secreted inside a cardboard shipping container. Add
the solar panel at right and the system will keep on
sending information as long as it’s not discovered.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 21
HIGH POWER –
VARIABLE LIN
W
e’ve been promising this project for a while! However, it
has taken some time to get it
just right.
But it’s finally here.
This power supply can deliver up to
45V at up to 8A, or up to 50V at lower
currents. It has a fully adjustable output
voltage down to 0V and an adjustable
current limit. Its operating envelope is
shown in Fig.1.
That makes it suitable for many different tasks, including testing newly
built or repaired equipment, temporar22
Silicon Chip
ily running various devices, charging
batteries etc.
Its controls are simple. Two knobs
set the voltage and current limits, and
the power supply maintains its outputs
within these constraints.
It shows the actual output voltage,
set voltage, actual current, set current
and heatsink temperature on an LCD
screen.
These can be shown on an alphanumeric LCD, or if you prefer, you could
use separate LED or LCD panel meters.
It has a pair of internal high-speed
Australia’s electronics magazine
fans to keep it cool. These automatically spin up and down as required. If
the Supply is operated in the orange
shaded area shown in Fig.1, or at very
high ambient temperatures, or the fans
fail, a thermal current limit comes into
play. This reduces the output current
until the unit cools down, preventing
damage to the Supply.
While we originally planned for this
power supply to be able to deliver 50V
at 8A, it is difficult to achieve that with
a practically sized transformer and a
reasonable parts budget. It’s limited to
siliconchip.com.au
– 45V/8A
NEAR SUPPLY
Part 1 –
by Tim Blythman
This adjustable bench supply can deliver heaps of
power, up to 360W in total, making it ideal for the
test bench or just general purpose use. It can
operate as a voltage or current source at
0-45V and 0-8A. It is an entirely linear,
analog design. It’s fan-cooled with
automatic fan speed control, short
circuit/overload protection and thermal
self-protection. It can even be used as a
basic but powerful battery charger.
Features
Featu
res & specifications
• Up to 45V output at 8A, 50V output at 2A (see Fig.1)
• Low ripple and noise
• Adjustable output voltage, 0-50V
• Adjustable output current, 0-8A
• Constant voltage/constant current (automatic switching)
• Shows set voltage/current, actual voltage/current and heatsink temperature
• Fan cooling with automatic fan speed control
• Thermal shutdown
• Fits into a readily available vented metal instrument case
• Switched and fused IEC mains input socket
• Uses mostly commonly available through-hole components
45V at 8A because despite using a large
500VA transformer, its output voltage still sags significantly under load,
meaning there isn’t enough headroom
for regulation.
However, if the transformer was upgraded (and possibly the filter capacitors too), it could be capable of delivering 50V at 8A.
Design overview
The basic design of the Bench Supply is shown in the simplified circuit
diagram, Fig.2. It’s based around an
siliconchip.com.au
INTERMITTENT OPERATION
(THERMAL LIMITING)
Fig.1: the Bench Supply can
deliver 8A but can only do so
continuously with an output
voltage of between 16V and 45V.
Below 16V, internal dissipation
is so high that the unit will go
into thermal limiting after a few
minutes. Above 45V, transformer
regulation means that the DC
supply voltage drops far enough
that 100Hz ripple starts appearing
at the output, so the actual voltage
may be lower than the set voltage.
Australia’s electronics magazine
8A
LIMIT DUE TO TRANSFORMER
VOLTAGE SAG & DC RIPPLE
LIMITED BY DESIGN
7A
6A
5A
CONTINUOUS
OPERATION
4A
3A
2A
1A
10V 16V 20V
30V
40V 45V 50V
October 2019 23
more current to the output of the supply. These transistors therefore supply
virtually all of the maximum 8A output current
Regulator control
Here’s a teaser look inside our new Bench Supply, taken before we applied
the dress panel. Full construction details will begin next month. As you might
expect from its specifications, there’s a lot to this supply, dominated by the
500VA transformer at left. But the good news is that it uses mostly through-hole
components so construction isn’t too difficult.
LM317HV high-voltage adjustable
regulator, REG3. The LM317HV variant can handle up to 60V between its
input and output, at up to 1.5A.
Clearly then, this regulator cannot
pass the full 8A output current. And
even if it could, it couldn’t dissipate
the 400W that would be required (50V
x 8A) as it’s in a TO-220 package.
Therefore, the regulator itself only
handles about 10mA of the load current, with the rest being delivered by
four high-power current boosting transistors, Q4-Q7.
Power is fed into the supply via the
IEC input socket shown at upper left,
and passes through the mains switch
and fuse before reaching the primary
24
Silicon Chip
of transformer T1.
Its two 40V AC secondary windings
are connected in parallel and then on
to bridge rectifier BR1 and a filter capacitor bank, generating the nominally
57V DC main supply rail.
This passes to the input of REG3 via
a resistor, and also to the collectors of
the NPN current-boosting transistors
and the emitter of PNP control transistor Q3.
As the current supplied by REG3
rises, Q3’s base-emitter junction becomes forward-biased, and it supplies
current to the bases of Q4-Q7, switching them on.
As REG3 draws more current, they
switch on harder, providing more and
Australia’s electronics magazine
Like most adjustable regulators,
REG3 operates by attempting to maintain a fixed voltage between its output
(OUT) and adjust (ADJ) pins. In this
case, around 1.2V.
Usually, a resistor is connected between OUT and ADJ, and another resistor between ADJ and GND, forming
a divider.
As the same current flows through
both resistors, the voltage between ADJ
and GND is fixed, the regulator output
voltage is that voltage plus the 1.2V
between OUT and ADJ.
But in this case, rather than having
a fixed or variable resistor from ADJ
to GND, we have transistors Q1 and
Q2, connected in parallel. Their bases are driven from the outputs of op
amps IC1a & IC1b. Their emitters go to
-5V so that the ADJ pin can be pulled
below ground, allowing the regulator
OUT pin to reach 0V.
This is important both to allow low
output voltages and for the current limiting to be effective.
Op amp IC1a compares the voltage
from the wiper of the VOLTAGE SET
potentiometer to a divided-down version of the output voltage. It provides
negative feedback so that if the output
voltage is higher than the setpoint,
Q1 is driven harder, pulling the ADJ
pin of REG3 down, reducing the output voltage.
And if the output voltage is too low,
Q1’s base drive is reduced, allowing
REG3 to pull the output up.
A capacitor from the ADJ pin of
REG3 to the -5V rail helps to stabilise
this arrangement. Current control op
amp IC1b and its associated transistor
Q2 work similarly, to regulate current.
Because transistors Q1 and Q2 can
only sink current, the output voltage
will be determined by which is lower: the voltage setting, or the voltage
required to achieve the desired current setting.
The output current is monitored
via a 15 milliohm shunt between the
output of REG3/Q4-Q7 and the output
terminal. Voltage feedback comes from
the output side of this resistor, so the
supply will automatically compensate for the shunt’s voltage drop (up
to 120mV).
siliconchip.com.au
T1
S1
~
40V
IEC MAINS
PLUG
115V
+
–
115V
40V
F1
+24V
BR1
24V
REGULATOR
+57V
12V
REGULATOR
5V
REGULATOR
Q3
Q4-Q7
+12V
0.015
OUT
IN
+
ADJ
OUTPUT
+
Q8
&
Q9
CONSTANT
LOAD
–
+24V
_
–5V
+
10k
NTC
_
OP
AMP
siliconchip.com.au
–5V
(HEATSINK)
REG3
Shunt monitor IC4, a form of differential/instrumentation amplifier, converts the voltage across the shunt to a
ground-referred voltage so that IC1b
can compare it to the voltage from the
current set pot.
By using control voltages to set the
desired output voltage and current,
we can easily show these on the front
panel of the meter, so you can see what
you’re doing.
LM317-type regulators have a minimum output load current, which is provided by a constant current sink comprising transistors Q8 and Q9.
Otherwise, the output of REG3
would rise of its own accord. The current sink dissipates a lot less power
than a fixed resistor would, as the resistor would draw much more current
at high output voltages.
The NTC thermistor on the heatsink
forms a divider with a resistor such that
the voltage at their junction drops as
the temperature increases.
This voltage is fed to a PWM generator which increases the duty cycle fed
to the gate of Mosfet Q10 as the temperature increases, speeding up the
two 24V fans.
The fans are connected in series and
run from the 57V supply rail via a dropper resistor. This is a much more pow-
-5V
REGULATOR
CURRENT BOOSTING TRANSISTORS
500VA
Fig.2: a simplified circuit/block diagram
showing how the Supply works. Four
electrolytic capacitors filter the output of
the bridge rectifier, which is regulated by
REG3 in concert with current boosting
transistors Q4-Q7. Op amps IC1a & IC1b
monitor the output voltage and current (the
latter via a 15mΩ
Ω shunt and shunt monitor
IC4) and compare it to the settings from
potentiometers VR3 & VR4. They then control
the voltage at REG3’s adjust pin to maintain
the desired voltage and current levels.
–9V
+5V
4x
4700 F
~
VOLTAGE
INVERTER
+12V
Q1
Q10
VOLTAGE
SET
IC1a
–5V
PWM
GENERATOR
OP
AMP
Q2
–5V
TSENSE
DIFF
AMP
IC1b
IC4
–5V
SHUTDOWN
LOGIC
CURRENT
SET
Q12
ISET
ISENSE
VSET
VSENSE
TO METER BUFFERS, CALIBRATION TRIMPOTS AND THEN ON TO PANEL METER(S)
er-efficient arrangement than running
the fans from one of the regulated rails.
The temperature signal is also fed to
control logic which biases NPN transistor Q12 on if the heatsink gets too hot,
pulling the current control signal to
ground and shutting down the supply.
Several internal regulators are
shown in Fig.2, at upper right. These
are required to generate various internal control voltage and to power the
control circuitry itself.
The output of the +12V regulator is
fed to a capacitor charge pump (IC3)
which generates a roughly -9V rail that
is then regulated to -5V.
As mentioned earlier, this is needed to allow the supply output to go
down to 0V.
Thermal considerations
One of the biggest challenges when
designing this supply was keeping it
cool without needing a huge heatsink
in a massive case. The worst case is
when the output is short-circuited at
8A (or it’s delivering a very low output
voltage at 8A). The required dissipation is then over 400W, and it should
ideally handle this continuously.
Three things became apparent during testing:
1) The current boosting transistors
Australia’s electronics magazine
needed to be mounted on the heatsink with as little thermal resistance as possible, to keep the devices themselves at a reasonable temperature when dissipating around
100W each.
2) To keep the heatsink and case size
reasonable, powerful cooling fans
are required. These should be thermally throttled to keep noise under
control.
3) The case would need to
be vented, with careful attention paid to the airflow paths.
We also determined that the current boosting control transistor, Q3,
would need to dissipate over 1W so
it too would need to be mounted on
the heatsink, along with REG3 and
the bridge rectifier, which also dissipates a significant amount of heat
at full power.
Because the heatsink is connected to
the collectors of Q4-Q7, which are sitting at 57V, it needs to be isolated from
the Earthed case, so we came up with
a mounting arrangement that achieved
this, while still keeping the heavy heatsink nicely anchored.
The fans are sandwiched between
the rear of the case and the heatsink,
so they draw air through large holes
in the rear panel and blow it straight
October 2019 25
over the heatsink fins. That air then turns 90° and exits
via the pre-punched vent holes in the top and bottom of
the case.
This does an excellent job of getting all that heat out of
the relatively small enclosure.
Circuit details
The full circuit of the Bench Supply is shown in Fig.3.
26
Silicon Chip
While it’s considerably more complicated than the simplified diagram (Fig.2), you should be able to see how the various sections correspond.
Starting where power enters the input, the 230V AC mains
from the input socket/switch/fuse assembly is applied to
the two 115V primary windings of 500VA transformer T1,
which are connected in series.
The 40V AC from its paralleled secondaries goes to BR1,
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the full circuit of the Bench Supply. The regulator, control circuitry and output current monitoring are in the
upper right quadrant, while the panel meter display buffer circuitry is at lower right. At centre left is the PWM fan
control, with the thermal shutdown and temperature monitoring circuitry below. The mains power supply, linear
regulators and negative rail generator (IC3 & D1-D2) are at upper left.
a 35A bridge rectifier and from there, to a bank of four
4700µF 63V electrolytic capacitors to carry the circuit over
the troughs of the mains cycle.
With no load, the main DC bus capacitors sit at around
57V. The diode drop across the bridge is offset by the transformer’s no-load voltage being slightly above nominal. In
any case, it is just below the 60V limit of the LM317HV
regulator (REG3).
siliconchip.com.au
Control circuitry
As mentioned earlier, the LM317HV adjustable voltage
regulator (REG3) is the core of the circuit. It maintains the
output voltage steady in spite of changes in load impedance and current draw, as long as its ADJ pin voltage is held
constant. The ADJ pin is pulled up by an internal current
from the input. To regulate the output, the circuit sinks a
variable current from the ADJ pin.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 27
This control is exerted by IC1, a dual op amp which runs
from a 29V supply, between the +24V and -5V rails. The
negative voltage is necessary because the LM317HV’s ADJ
pin needs to be around 1.2V below the output to regulate
correctly. To achieve 0V at the output means that the ADJ
pin needs to be around -1.2V relative to GND.
The voltage and current control sections of the circuit
around IC1 are quite similar. The reference voltage from
the potentiometers is fed into their respective op amp inverting inputs (pins 2 and 6) via 10kΩ resistors while feedback voltages from the output are fed into the non-inverting
inputs (pins 3 and 5) via another pair of 10kΩ resistors.
The user controls the Bench Supply via voltage set potentiometer VR3 and current set potentiometer VR4. One
end of each is connected to ground so that when set to their
minimums, their wipers are at 0V which corresponds to
zero voltage and current at the output.
These are set up as voltage dividers, and both have series 10kΩ trimpots (VR1 and VR2) connected as variable
resistors on their high side. This allows you to adjust their
full-scale ranges.
The current setting pot also has a 27kΩ resistor in its
divider chain, as the voltage and current adjustment have
different scales.
The supply’s output voltage is sampled by a 22kΩ/10kΩ
voltage divider, with a 100nF capacitor across the upper
resistor to give more feedback on transients, stabilising the
feedback loop. The result is a 0-15.625V feedback voltage
for a 0-50V output voltage.
This divider is necessary to keep the feedback voltage
within the input voltage range of op amp IC1a, which runs
from the 24V supply.
For the normal 0-50V output range, VR1 is adjusted to
give 15.625V at TP1 with VR3 rotated fully clockwise (the
voltage at TP5 should be similar). If you want to limit the
voltage output to 45V, avoiding the loss of regulation at
higher current settings, it can be adjusted to 14.04V instead.
Current feedback from the 15mΩ shunt is via the INA282
shunt monitor, IC4, which has a gain of 50 times.
That means that a 1A output current results in 750mV
(1A x 15mΩ x 50) at output pin 5 of IC4. So at the maximum output current of 8A, we get 6V from IC4.
Therefore, VR2 is adjusted to give 6V at TP3 with VR4
rotated fully clockwise (the voltage at TP6 will be similar).
Under normal operation, it is expected that TP2
(“VSENSE”) will track TP1 (“VSET”) as the output voltage
follows the control. If current limiting is occurring, then
TP4 (“ISENSE”) will track TP3 (“ISET”), and the voltage at
TP2 will be less than TP1.
There are 100nF capacitors from the wipers of VR3 and
VR4 to -5V, keeping the impedance of these control lines
low, to minimise noise pickup which would otherwise
make its way to the supply’s output.
Getting back to the control circuitry, the output from each
op amp stage in IC1 (pins 1 and 7) controls NPN transistors Q1 and Q2 via two 1MΩ base current-limiting resistors. We’re using BC546s because they have a 65V rating
and they can see up to about 50V on their collectors.
The LM317HV only sources about 10µA out of its ADJ
pin, meaning its output can only rise by 1V per millisecond as this current must charge up the 100nF capacitor
between the ADJ pin and -5V. However, Q1 and Q2 can
discharge this capacitor more quickly, which is important
in case the output is overloaded or short-circuited, as it
means the supply’s voltage can be cut quickly.
Op amp IC1 and transistors Q1 & Q2 combine to provide
a phenomenal amount of gain in the control loop, which is
handy to have for fast response, but needs to be carefully
controlled to avoid oscillation due to overshooting. The
minuscule base current through the 1MΩ resistors is one
way the response of the loop has been tempered.
Another is the use of the 1nF and 100nF capacitors between the op amp inputs and outputs, which dampen what
would otherwise be a sharp response to a more gradual
change, thus preventing oscillation.
Scope1: the yellow trace is the clipped ‘triangle’ waveform
at pin 5 of IC2b while the blue trace is the thermistor
divider voltage at pin 6. Since the latter is above the former
the whole time, the gate of Mosfet Q10 (green) is sitting at
0V, and so the fans are both switched off.
Scope2: the thermistor temperature has now risen enough
that the divider voltage (blue) is now just below the peaks
of the clipped triangle waveform (yellow) and so the gate of
Q10 (green) is now a 300Hz square wave with a duty cycle
of 43%. The fans are now both running at a moderate speed.
28
Silicon Chip
Power output stage
As we noted earlier, the LM317HV does not carry most of
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The thermal equation
120
60
50
100
50
500
80
30
60
V
Voltage
oltage drop
(left axis)
20
10
40
Output current
(left axis)
0
10
20
350
40
300
30
250
Device dissipation
(right axis)
20
20
10
0
0
200
150
Output current
(left axis)
100
50
0
Fig.4(a)
400
V
Voltage
oltage drop
(left axis)
Dissipation (W)
40
Dissipation (W)
Device dissipation
(right axis)
Voltage drop (V) / Current (A)
450
Voltage drop (V) / Current (A)
You might notice some parallels between this High Power Bench Supply
board and a power amplifier.
Many of our power amplifiers, such as
the Ultra-LD Mk.2-Mk.4 series and more
recently, the SC200 (January-March 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/308) also use
a 40V transformer to provide nominal 57V
rails and use four power transistors in their
output stages.
While this circuit definitely has similarities with a power amplifier, the thermal and power considerations are significantly different.
An audio amplifier only has to deal with
a relatively small load impedance variation, delivering its power into 2-10Ω or
so, depending on the speaker characteristics and frequency.
The output current therefore varies
more or less proportionally with the voltage. So the maximum power dissipation
in the amplifier therefore occurs when the
output voltage is half the supply voltage
– see Fig.4(a).
On the other hand, our High Power
Bench Supply PSU cannot expect a fixed
load impedance and must be capable of
60
30
40
50
Output Voltage (V)
delivering the full load current with zero
output voltage. So for the same maximum
current, the maximum power is doubled, to
over 400W – see Fig.4(b).
Therefore, our design needs to be able to
dissipate much more power than a typical
audio amplifier module under worst-case
conditions.
We initially mounted our power transistors on the heatsink using insulating pads
but found that even at modest power outputs, the transistors tended to overheat,
even though the heatsink was not that hot.
Even switching to a thin layer of polyimide
tape did not help significantly.
It was only when we directly mounted
the transistors on the heatsink that we were
0
0
Fig.4(b)
10
20
30
40
50
Output Voltage (V)
able to keep them at a reasonable temperature when dissipating close to 100W
per device.
The thermal resistance of the heatsink
(with natural convection only) is quoted as
0.72°C/W, meaning that we would expect
a temperature rise of 288°C above ambient with 400W total dissipation. As the
maximum operating temperature of the
transistors is specified as 150°C, forced
cooling is necessary.
The final solution of mounting the
output transistors to the heatsink, insulating it from the chassis and having
two high-power fans blowing directly over its fins is necessary for correct
operation of the unit under heavy load.
the load current. It is supplemented by four power FJA4313
power transistors, Q4-Q7.
These are controlled by a 68Ω pass resistor on the LM317HV’s input. As its output current rises above 10mA
and the voltage across the 68Ω resistor exceeds 0.6V, Q3
switches on and so do Q4-Q7, supplementing the output current.
This situation is stable in that if the output current
through REG1 drops due to the output transistors sourcing
more current than necessary, the base current through Q3
is automatically reduced and so transistors Q4-Q7 start to
switch off. Each of these transistors has a 0.1Ω emitter resistor to improve current sharing even if the device characteristics are not identical.
Scope3: the thermistor temperature has increased
significantly, and the divider voltage (blue) has fallen, so
the duty cycle at the gate of Mosfet Q10 has risen to 90%.
Scope4: the thermistor divider voltage has now fallen
further as the thermistor is very hot (above 80°C) and so
the gate of Mosfet Q10 is permanently high, with the fans
running continuously at full speed.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 29
At the maximum 8A output current, each of these transistors only passes about 2A, so the loss across these emitter resistors is only about 200mV.
This transistor current booster stage again provides a
tremendous amount of gain which needs to be dealt with
carefully. A 100nF capacitor connects from the junction of
the current sharing resistors back to the base of Q3. This
provides negative feedback at high frequencies, preventing oscillation.
Transistors Q3-Q7 and REG1 (the LM317HV) are mounted on the main heatsink.
As we noted, REG1 does not dissipate much power, but
it is capable of thermal shutdown.
It should not get hot enough for this to occur, but it does
form a ‘last-ditch’ safeguard.
The 15mΩ high-side current shunt is monitored by IC4,
an INA282 high side shunt monitor. IC4 and the shunt are
the only two surface-mount devices used in the circuit.
IC4 takes the difference between its two input voltages
(the voltage across the shunt) and multiplies it by 50 before shifting it to be relative to the average voltage on its
REF pins, which in this case are both connected to GND.
Thus we have a voltage proportional to the current and
referred to GND, which we can compare to the voltage on
the current set potentiometer (VR4).
A 10µF capacitor from the output of REG3 to ground
provides some smoothing and stability.
It is purposefully a small value to limit the current in
case the output is short-circuited and to ensure a fast response to voltage and current changes when the supply’s
load is light. It’s paralleled with a 100nF capacitor for better high-frequency performance.
Minimum load
The LM317HV requires a minimum output current of
around 3.5mA to maintain regulation. Otherwise, the output voltage will rise.
Scope5: the yellow trace shows the Supply’s output voltage,
and the green trace shows its current delivery, at around
2.5A/div. It’s delivering 4A at 24V into a 6Ω
Ω load but the
load impedance then suddenly drops to 3.5Ω
Ω, increasing
the current to nearly 7A. The current limit has been set to
around 5A, so the supply reacts within a few milliseconds
to reduce the output voltage. The load current settles at the
set value around 10ms later.
30
Silicon Chip
As we cannot guarantee that there will be a load
connected to the supply, we have to provide one.
In a fixed voltage application, a resistor would be adequate,
but not in this case.
To ensure a minimum current is sunk across the full
voltage range, a constant current configuration with a pair
of BC546 transistors (Q8 and Q9) is used, with the current
set by a 100Ω resistor to around 6mA.
Again BC546s have been chosen to withstand the output
voltage of up to 50V.
This circuit does not work unless there is more than 1.2V
between its top and bottom due to the forward voltage of the
two base-emitter junctions. The current is therefore sunk
into the -5V rail, to ensure that regulation is maintained,
even at low output voltages.
At high voltages on the output, this part of the circuit
can dissipate a few hundred milliwatts.
Fan control
A thermistor-controlled fan circuit is provided so that
the powerful cooling fans only operate as needed. The thermistor is also used to reduce the output current in case the
heatsink gets too hot despite the fans running at full blast.
Dual op amp IC2 is powered from the 12V rail. One half
of the op amp (IC2a) is a triangle waveform generator, with
the 1µF capacitor alternately charged and discharged between around 3V and 9V.
The triangle waveform does not have linear ramps
(they’re exponential), but that doesn’t matter for our application. With timing components of 1kΩ and 1µF, the
circuit oscillates at around 280Hz.
The triangle wave from pin 1 of IC2a is fed to the cathode of zener diode ZD1 via a 10kΩ resistor. This creates a
truncated triangle wave (see Scope1), which is fed to the
non-inverting input (pin 5) of the second half of the op
amp, IC2b. Due to the limited current applied to ZD1, the
peak voltage is around 6.5V.
Scope6: this shows a 4A resistive load being connected to
the Supply while it is delivering 25V. The output is never
more than 200mV from the setpoint and settles in much
less than 1ms. A load with any amount of capacitance will
see even less deviation than this.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The 10kΩ NTC thermistor is connected in series with a
9.1kΩ resistor, to form a voltage divider across the 12V rail.
The thermistor is connected at the bottom of the divider,
so that as its temperature rises, the voltage at the divider
junction decreases.
At 20°C, the voltage is around 7V, dropping to around
2V at 60°C. This voltage is fed into IC2’s pin 6, the inverting input. When the truncated triangle waveform voltage
is above the thermistor voltage, output pin goes high and
when the triangle voltage is below the thermistor voltage,
that output is low.
Thus pin 7 of IC2b produces a square wave at 280Hz with
a duty cycle that increases as the thermistor temperature
increases. This drives the gate of N-channel Mosfet Q10
(IRF540) via a 1kΩ resistor, which powers the two fans. A
10kΩ pull-down on the Mosfet gate ensures it switches off
when power is removed.
We have two 24V DC fans wired in series and connected
via CON4 and CON5. When Q10 is on, about 9V appears
across the 33Ω 5W ballast resistor, reducing the ~57V DC
supply voltage to around 48-49V so they each run off about
24V. The powerful fans we have chosen draw about 280mA
at 24V. If you use different fans, you will need to alter the
resistor value to suit.
When the temperature at the thermistor is near ambient, the thermistor divider is at around 7V and is above
the 6.5V peak set by the zener diode. Thus output pin of
IC2b remains low and Q10, and the fans are off.
When the divider voltage drops below the voltage set by
ZD1, the fan quickly jumps up to a duty cycle of approximately 40%. This ensures that the fans start reliably, and
is the reason for the presence of ZD1.
The duty cycle increases as the temperature rises until
the thermistor divider voltage is below the trough of the
triangle waveform, in which case Q10 and the fans are
switched on 100% of the time. Thus the fans can dynamically respond to changes in temperature.
Scope1-Scope4 show how the duty cycle varies in response to changes in temperature.
Scope7: the green trace shows around 2V of ripple on the
pre-regulator 4 x 4700µF capacitor bank with the Supply
delivering 4A into 25V. The yellow trace is the Supply’s
output. The scope measures 3mV of ripple, but this
comparable in magnitude to the noise that the scope probes
pick up when grounded.
Scope8: This is the reverse of the scenario seen in Scope6,
with a 4A resistive load being disconnected from the
Supply at 25V. There is around half a volt of overshoot
followed by a lesser amount of undershoot and the output
settles completely within 2ms.
siliconchip.com.au
Thermal shutdown
The thermistor voltage is also fed to NPN transistor Q11
via a 100kΩ base resistor and diode D4. This means that
Q11 switches off if the thermistor voltage drops below 1.2V.
The high resistor value means that this part of the circuit
does not affect the thermistor voltage significantly.
If the thermistor temperature rises above 80°C, the divider
voltage drops below 1.2V and Q11 switches off. Its collector voltage rises enough to allow current to flow through
D3, charging the following 1µF capacitor.
This eventually provides enough base current for NPN
transistors Q12 and Q13 to switch on, lighting LED1 and
pulling down the wiper voltage of current set potentiometer VR4.
In practice, the current limit setpoint does not reach exactly zero when this happens, but stabilises at around 100mA,
reducing the maximum dissipation in the output devices to
below 10W.
The 1µF capacitor can only discharge via the two 100kΩ
base resistors, giving around a one-second delay between
the thermistor voltage dropping and the current limit returning to normal.
This, in combination with the thermal mass of the heatsink, prevents the thermal limiting from switching on and
off rapidly.
Monitoring voltages and currents
To avoid the need for hooking multiple multimeters up
to the Bench Supply to see what it’s doing, it incorporates
five read-outs. These can be shown on a single LCD screen
or multiple panel meters.
Regardless, the Bench Supply board has to provide analog voltages to feed to these displays.
These voltages are buffered by dual op amps IC5 and IC6,
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 31
which are powered from the same +24V and -5V rails as
control op amp IC1. They form four unity gain amplifiers.
Their non-inverting inputs are connected to TP1, TP2, TP3
and TP4.The output from each buffer is fed into a 10kΩ
trimpot (VR5-VR8) to allow you to adjust the voltage scaling to suit the display(s).
These trimpots effectively allow any fraction of
the reference voltage to be fed to the panel meters.
The thermistor voltage is scaled down by a pair of 1MΩ resistors to provide a 0-5V signal suitable for feeding to a microcontroller.
A 100nF bypass capacitor provides a low-impedance
source for whatever is connected to sample it. The time
constant of the 1MΩ/100nF low-pass filter is not a problem
because the thermistor temperature does not change rapidly.
All the buffered signals are fed to DIL header CON6, along
with ground connections and a 5V supply to run the LCD
screen or panel meters.
As an example, when the Bench Supply is delivering 50V,
there will be 15.6V at TP2. IC5b buffers this, and VR6 can
be set so that 5V is fed to pin 5 of CON6 in this condition,
ie, one-tenth of the actual output voltage. The panel meter
just needs its decimal point set so that it reads 50.0 when
receiving a 5V signal.
Similarly, the current values can be displayed on a voltmeter, with the range appropriately set by scaling and placement of the decimal point. A similar scaling by a factor of
10 is appropriate here too.
pin 11 of CON6 to an analog meter and draw an appropriate scale, calibrated to match the thermistor temperature.
Five-way Panel Meter
While we don’t know of any panel meters that will be able
to directly read the thermistor voltage and convert it into
a temperature, our microcontroller-based Five-way Panel
Meter design can interpret it, as well as displaying the two
voltage and two current values.
The details of this low-cost Five-way Panel Meter will be
in next month’s issue, coinciding with the PCB construction
and testing details for the Bench Supply.
If you don’t want to use that Panel Meter board, but you
want a temperature read-out, you could feed the voltage from
There are three heatsinks in this design, small flag heatsinks for the 12V and 24V regulators (REG4 and REG1) and
the main heatsink for REG3, Q3-Q7 and BR1. Due to the high
voltages present, regulators REG4 and REG1 have significant
dissipation, despite the series ballast resistors which reduce
their input voltage.
The 24V regulator is key to setting the voltage and current
references, so keeping this device at a uniform temperature
will help with the stability of the output.
As mentioned earlier, to efficiently get heat out of transistors Q4-Q7, they are not insulated from the main heatsink
Scope9: here we have simulated a step-change in the
voltage control input by shorting the VSET point to ground
and then releasing it. The output voltage drop is much
quicker than the rise, ensuring that the chance of overshoot
is minimised under dynamic conditions.
Scope10: this current control step-change test shows a
similar response as in Scope9. Again, the fall is faster,
indicating that the Bench Supply is designed to respond
to over-current conditions quickly. There is no visible
overshoot.
32
Silicon Chip
Internal power supply
24V linear regulator REG1 is fed from the 57V rail via a
220Ω 5W dropper (ballast) resistor. This reduces dissipation
in the regulator while its 100µF input bypass capacitor prevents that resistor from affecting regulation.
The 24V rail powers the output control op amps (IC1), the
sense buffer op amps (IC5 & IC6) and is the reference voltage for the output voltage and current adjustment potentiometers (VR3 & VR4).
The 24V rail also feeds into 12V regulator REG4 via another
ballast resistor, this time 68Ω 1W. The 12V supply feeds the
negative voltage generator, the current shunt monitor IC, the
thermistor and fan control, and the 5V regulator (REG5). The
resulting 5V rail is for powering the panel meter/display(s).
The negative voltage generator consists of a 555 timer
(IC3) operating in astable mode at around 60kHz, with a near
50% duty cycle. Its output is connected to 1N4148 diodes
D1 and D2 via a 100µF capacitor, forming a charge pump.
The 100µF capacitor at pin 3 of IC3 charges up through
D2 when pin 3 is high. When pin 3 goes low, D2 is reversebiased and current instead flows through D1, charging up
the 100µF capacitor at REG2’s input. This results in around
-9V at the input of REG2, resulting in a regulated -5V rail
at its output.
Heatsinking
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
and it is therefore at around +57V DC potential. 57V DC is
considered ‘low voltage’, but of course there are also mains
voltage present around the transformer, so it doesn’t hurt to
use caution while working on the supply when it’s powered.
The LM317HV regulator has a live tab connected to its
output, which can vary anywhere between 0V and near the
DC rail voltage, so it must be insulated from the main heatsink. We used a silicone pad and an insulating bush.
Similarly, the tab of Q3 is connected to its collector. If
the collector were connected to the DC rail, then the output transistors would turn on hard, so this must be avoided.
It too is mounted with a silicone pad and insulated bush.
We have purposefully mounted Q3 reversed on the PCB,
with its pin 3 on the left, so that its metal tab faces away from
the heatsink. That’s because, despite an insulating washer,
we found it was still shorting to the heatsink via the screw.
Reversing the device solved that. Its dissipation is not that
high, so the added thermal resistance is not a big problem.
Of course, the thermistor is also mounted on the heatsink and
must be insulated too. We used a stud-type thermistor which
has the active element potted, so that is already taken care of.
Performance
Scope grabs Scope5-10 demonstrate some of the performance characteristics of the Supply. These grabs demonstrate the effects of sudden ‘step’ changes in the operating
conditions. In reality, most changes won’t occur so suddenly.
Importantly, the Bench Supply can respond quickly to
changes in load without excessive overshoots, including
switching into current limiting when necessary. The scope
grabs demonstrate that it typically responds within milliseconds to these sort of changes. See the details of the individual tests underneath the scope grabs.
We also did some thermal tests to determine how well
the Bench Supply handles heat dissipation. As noted in
our panel about “The Thermal Equation”, the Bench Supply works hardest when the output voltage is low, but the
current is high. In these cases, the full supply voltage appears across the output transistors.
For example, dumping 8A into a short circuit means that
the Bench Supply is delivering around 400W into the heatsink. During our scope grab tests, at 25V and 4A, it is dissipating around 100W.
Under the latter condition, the thermistor registers around
20°C above ambient, and the fans run at around half speed.
One of our more severe tests involved connecting a 2Ω
dummy load. With the output set to 8A, the voltage reaches 16V, and the Supply is dissipating around 300W. Under
these conditions, the thermistor reached 77°C (around 55°C
above ambient) after around 10 minutes and then held steady.
Contrary to what you might think, delivering 45V at 8A
is not that stressful to the supply, as there is only about
10V across the output devices and thus a dissipation of
around 80W.
Delivering 8A into a short circuit is more difficult; the
supply can manage for this, but only for a few minutes at a
time before it enters thermal current limiting.
SC
NEXT MONTH:
As promised earlier in this article, our November issue will commence the full construction details, including the parts list. If you
want to be sure not to miss that issue, why not subscribe to SILICON
CHIP? (See page 97).
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 33
NEW FROM
Nano Every and
Nano 33 IoT
Several new Arduino Nano boards were recently released. We got a hold
of the two most interesting new boards, the Nano Every and Nano 33 IoT,
to see what’s new, figure out how to use them and get an idea of what
they’re good for.
T
he Arduino company has added
four new Nano boards to their
range. These use the same compact and breadboard-friendly form factor as the original Nano, but with a
lot of extra performance and features.
To program these, you will need to
be familiar with the Arduino software
environment, specifically, their Integrated Development Environment
(IDE) which can be downloaded for free
from: siliconchip.com.au/link/aatq
The Nano Every
The first board we will look at is
called the “Nano Every”. Instead of
using the ATmega328 processor used
in the Arduino Uno, Duemilanove and
Nano (among others), it has the much
newer ATmega4809 micro.
This board is an upgraded drop34
Silicon Chip
in substitute for the older Nano. The
pin layout is the same and its I/O pins
work at 5V levels, in contrast to many
other recent Arduino boards which
have 3.3V I/O levels.
One example of a 3.3V Arduino is
the Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 which
we reviewed in March this year
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11448).
The Nano 33 IoT
The second board we’re reviewing
is the Arduino Nano 33 IoT. The “33”
emphasises the fact that this board has
3.3V I/O levels.
It is based on a SAMD21G18A (ARM
Cortex M0+) processor and has the same
NINA W102 WiFi module as the Vidor
Review by Tim Blythman
Australia’s electronics magazine
board mentioned earlier. The WiFi features are the reason for the “IoT” (Internet of Things) designation, as you need
network connectivity for that.
The two other boards released at
the same time as these are the Nano
33 BLE and Nano 33 BLE Sense. Both
are based on a NINA B306 module,
which provides support for Bluetooth.
The difference between the two is
that the Sense version boasts several
extra sensors; these add up to make it
the most expensive Nano series board.
We haven’t bothered reviewing
those two because we think that the
WiFi version is more generally useful,
while also being cheaper.
Price
Speaking of price, these new Nano
boards are inexpensive. From the ofsiliconchip.com.au
ficial Arduino store (at https://store.
arduino.cc/usa/nano-family), the
Nano Every is less than half the price
of even the original Nano, coming
in at US$9.90 (approx AU$14.50 at
press time). The Nano 33 IoT is just
US$18.00 (approx AU$26.90), even
less than an R3 Arduino Uno board.
The headers are included separately
with both packs, and we had no hesitation in saving ourselves the $2 or
so that it would have cost us to have
them fitted at the factory.
Nano Every details
The “Getting Started” page at www.
arduino.cc/en/Guide/NANOEvery
notes that the Nano Every is fully compatible with the original Nano.
Table 1 shows a comparison between the specifications of the ATmega4809 micro (as used in the Nano
Every and the Uno WiFi Rev2 board)
and the good old ATmega328.
We’ve also included the SAMD21G18A in this comparison, as used
in the Nano 33 IoT.
Note though that the Nanos, as supplied, can’t necessarily use all of their
theoretical capabilities.
For example, the Nano Every runs
at 16MHz, despite the chip being capable of 20MHz (it’s even listed on the
Every’s product page as 20MHz). The
reason is that it has a 16MHz crystal
onboard.
Also, the original Nano only had
30kB available for user programs, as
2kB of the chip’s memory is reserved
for the bootloader.
The Nano Every does not use a
bootloader, but instead is directly
programmed by a second chip on the
board, so the full 48kB is available.
The extra flash (+50%) and RAM
(+200%) on the Every are welcome improvements. RAM is especially tight
on the ATmega328-based Arduinos.
We doubt most users will be inconvenienced by the smaller EEPROM
size; generally, you only need to use
it to store a few settings.
The ATmega4809 can write to its
own flash, so you can allocate some of
that as non-volatile storage, although
the Arduino framework doesn’t provide an easy way to do this (and it
doesn’t have anywhere near the endurance or convenience of a proper
EEPROM).
As shown in Table 1, the ATmega4809 is programmed via UPDI (Unified Program and Debug Interface).
siliconchip.com.au
Flash Memory
SRAM
EEPROM
Programming method
Max clock speed
SPI/UART/I2C
interfaces
ADC pins
ATmega328
32kB
2kB
1024B
ICSP
20MHz
ATmega4809
48kB
6kB
256B
UPDI
20MHz
SAMD21G18A
256kB
32kB
0B
Bootloader
48MHz
3
6
3
8 (6 in DIP)
16
7
Table 1 - Arduino Nano micros comparison
We’ve seen UPDI previously on the
ATtiny816, which we reviewed in
January 2019 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/11372).
UPDI only requires one extra pin
apart from power and ground connections, and this is usually shared with
the RESET pin, meaning that no I/O
pins are lost.
The second chip on the Nano Every is a very capable ARM-based ATSAMD11D14A. It programs the ATmega4809 via UPDI, and it also acts
as the USB-Serial bridge (much like
the Microbridge chip in the Micromite BackPack V2/V3 and recent Explore-28).
Six pads on the back of the board
are connected to the ATSAMD11D14A
and can be used to update its firmware,
should that become necessary.
The USB interface is provided via
a micro-USB socket, as is common on
mobile phones.
Also on the Nano Every board is an
MPM3610 regulator, providing a regulated 5V rail from the VIN pin.
This IC is a switchmode device
which can deliver up to 1.2A from input voltages up to 21V.
This is a major improvement from
previous Arduinos, so now the 5V rail
can supply high currents to connected peripherals without the regulator
overheating. Watch out for Clones of
the Nano Every as they may revert to
an inferior linear regulator to reduce
the cost!
There’s also a 3.3V regulator to power the ATSAMD11D14A and three lev-
el shifting transistors for the TX, RX
and UPDI lines. These are rounded out
with two LEDs (for power and digital
pin 13 activity), a reset button and the
usual passives like bypass capacitors.
The I/O pin mounting pads have
castellated edges, making it possible
to surface-mount the board on another
PCB instead of soldering on headers.
It has been suggested that it could
be possible to add features to this
board by reprogramming the ATSAMD11D14A bridge chip. However, the
extra ATmega16u2 chip on Uno boards
was also capable of this, yet such mods
were never particularly popular.
As of writing this article, a minor
bug exists in the USB-Serial bridge
firmware of early releases of the boards
which can cause it to lock up when
receiving more than 128 bytes from
the serial port.
New boards will have this bug fixed,
but there are already quite a few in circulation with that problem.
The firmware can be updated by
using the “bossac” program, which is
installed with SAMD board profiles
under the Arduino IDE.
Nonetheless, this is still an inconvenience which could cause some
frustration for inexperienced users (at
which Arduino is firmly aimed).
Using the Nano Every
The ATmega4809 processor on the
Every has some newer features that
have been added to the AVR family
since Microchip’s takeover of Atmel
in 2016.
Screen1: the Nano Every requires the “megaAVR” board profile. It can be
installed from the Boards Manager in recent versions of the Arduino IDE, as
shown here.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 35
Like many Arduino boards, the hardware designs are available for download, although the Nano Every would be harder
to build than the older through-hole boards. The back of the PCB is empty, allowing it to be mounted flat on a PCB using
the castellated pads along its edges. These photos are shown about twice life size for clarity. (Actual size of the Arduino
Nano Every is 43 x 18.5mm)
These include custom-configurable
logic (CCL), programmable look-up
tables (LUT), a peripheral Event System and more. However, there are not
many libraries presently available to
take advantage of these new features.
The so-called “megaavr” software
core needs to be installed in the Arduino IDE to use the Every. It can be
installed from newer (1.6.4 or later)
versions of the IDE by using the Boards
Manager and searching for “megaavr”.
Screen1 shows the result of this search.
Make sure you use megaavr version
1.8.3 or later as earlier versions had
some bugs.
Once installed, the board can be
selected from the Arduino megaAVR
digitalRead
digitalWrite
pinMode
multiply byte
divide byte
add byte
multiply integer
divide integer
add integer
multiply long
divide long
add long
multiply float
divide float
add float
itoa()
ltoa()
dtostrf()
random()
y l= (1<<x)
bitSet ()
analogRead()
analogWrite() PWM
Nano Every
6.679µs
6.459µs
3.244µs
0.570µs
5.297µs
0.381µs
1.263µs
14.052µs
0.759µs
5.547µs
38.362µs
1.514µs
7.314µs
78.337µs
9.692µs
12.792µs
125.487µs
76.687µs
90.512µs
0.444µs
0.444µs
112.887µs
6.932µs
boards group under the Tools menu.
We compiled and uploading the
“Blink” sketch to test that everything
worked as expected. This resulted in
a sketch size of 1370 bytes, and the
upload took a few seconds. There was
an error message “Cannot locate ‘flash’
and ‘boot’ memories in description”,
but it worked despite that.
Interestingly, the “Blink” sketch
compiled for the original Nano comes
to around 930 bytes; even a blank
sketch compiles around 400 bytes
larger on the Every than the original
Nano. This is due to the extra initialisation code that the Arduino IDE tacks
on. It’s a minor loss compared to the
extra 16kB of flash on the chip.
Original Nano
Nano 33 IoT
5.032µs
0.984µs
4.532µs
1.913µs
4.470µs
1.931µs
0.632µs
0.197µs
5.412µs
0.636µs
0.443µs
0.197µs
1.386µs
0.171µs
14.277µs
0.591us
0.883µs
0.171µs
6.102µs
0.168µs
38.662µs
0.596µs
1.763µs
0.169µs
7.932µs
3.016µs
80.162µs
11.721µs
10.107µs
2.806µs
12.597µs
3.041µs
125.987µs
16.196µs
78.637µs
91.412µs
9.546µs
0.569µs
0.569µs
0.123µs
111.987µs
422.946µs
7.167µs
6.801µs
Table 2 - Nano board performance comparison (lower is better)
36
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Occasionally, we found that the Every
stalled during the upload process. Because sketch uploading requires the
transfer of much data over the serial
port, we suspect this is related to the
bug noted earlier.
We found a benchmarking test
sketch online at: http://siliconchip.
com.au/link/aau5 We compared the
Nano Every against the original Nano
using it.
On the original Nano, the sketch
compiled to 20722 bytes, while the
Every needed 21600 bytes, almost 1kB
more. Otherwise, the performance is
quite similar, and there’s nothing significant enough to favour one over the
other speed-wise (see Table 2).
There is an option in the tools menu
of the IDE to change the “Register Emulation” to suit either the ATmega328
or ATmega4809.
It appears this is part of Arduino’s
pitch that the Every is compatible with
the original Nano. We saw no effect
from changing this option. The “Getting Started” page mentions that this
option may help with sketches that
contain assembly language or do not
manage pin mapping.
We found that some sketches using
direct port writes would not compile
for the Every, even though they did
compile for the Uno WiFi Rev2 (which
has the same microcontroller).
Most users would not run into this
problem, but it suggests that some
third-party libraries will not work on
the Nano Every.
Interestingly, there is one less PWM
channel available on the Every than
on the original Nano. Pin 11 can no
longer be used for PWM, so sketches
that depend on this feature are also
not compatible with the newer board.
Is it Every-thing we hoped for?
Probably the biggest advantage of
siliconchip.com.au
The Nano 33 IoT is packed with components; the NINAW102 WiFi module is easily the largest. The slotted metal piece
at far right is the 2.4GHz antenna. It’s unfortunate that the only space for pin markings is on the back of the package. If
you don’t need access to the reset button and status LEDs, the headers could be mounted on the opposite side, to allow the
markings to be seen while the Nano is plugged into a breadboard. Again, these are shown about twice life size.
the Every is its price. Given that it’s
cheaper than the genuine original
Nano and has more flash and RAM,
unless you absolutely need compatibility with the original Uno/Nano, you
might as well use the Every instead.
It is one of the handiest 5V-based Arduino boards available.
Like some of the newer PIC microcontrollers, the ATmega4809 offers
peripheral pin select, meaning its internal peripherals can be re-mapped
to different pins. It also offers CCL
(configurable custom logic) which allows simple logic functions to be performed in hardware on the input and
output signals.
An example would be gating a clock
signal with an AND gate or inverting
a signal with a NOT gate.
These features are a bit beyond the
scope of the intended Arduino audience, but advanced users can experiment with them by diving deep into
the data sheet and tweaking the internal registers directly.
These features will allow the Every
to be much more efficient at certain
tasks than the original Nano.
Interestingly, since Microchip’s
MPLAB X IDE supports the ATmega4809, you could program it using
that software instead, using pure C/
C++ rather than the modified version
of C++ used in the Arduino IDE.
So it is even less likely than the
Every to be compatible with existing
Nano projects. It does, however, maintain the six PWM outputs in familiar
locations and adds a seventh PWM
output at digital pin 2.
Like other SAMD based boards,
though, it is only compatible with
3.3V I/O levels.
The Nano 33 IoT is very similar to
the Vidor in many aspects. WiFi is
provided by the same NINA W102
module (which contains an ESP32
running custom firmware) and it also
has an ATECC608A crypto chip, similar to the ATECC508A on the Vidor.
The Nano 33 IoT is also similar to the
larger MKR WiFi 1010 board.
The crypto chip is used for encrypting WiFi and internet communications. There is also an onboard
LSM6DS3 IMU (inertial measurement
unit) which connects to the main processor via an I2C bus. The IMU can be
used to detect the orientation and rotation of the board.
There is no separate serial-USB converter, as the SAMD21G18A has its
own USB interface which provides a
virtual serial port.
Otherwise, the board is similar to
the Every. An MPM3610 switchmode
regulator provides the 3.3V rail. A 5V
rail is only available directly from the
USB port and if a solder jumper is
closed. The power and pin D13 LEDs, a
reset button and a handful of passives
complete the board.
We didn’t find any bugs affecting
the Nano 33 IoT, probably because it is
so similar to other MKR series boards
such as the Vidor which have been
around for a while.
Using the Nano 33 IoT
The Nano 33 IoT can also be added
to the Arduino IDE through the Boards
Manager. See Screen2 for the correct
board profile to install; we recommend searching for “samd” although it
brings up more than one result. The option including the Nano 33 IoT name
is correct. Click on the item then click
the button to install it.
Note that the Vidor board had its
own separate “SAMD beta” board profile, but these have now been merged
into one.
Again, We tried the “Blink” sketch,
and everything worked as expected.
We then tried the same benchmarking
program as before.
We had to delete some of the tests
as it appears that the functions they
use are not defined under the SAMD
board profile. Although a minor
Nano 33 IoT details
The Nano 33 IoT has the same footprint as the other Nano boards. Like the
Every, if it is ordered without headers
attached, it can be surface-mounted on
another PCB as if it were a component.
The SAMD21G18A processor is
common to many of the newer 32-bit
Arduino boards, including the Vidor
board that we reviewed previously.
This is a very different architecture
to AVR-based boards.
siliconchip.com.au
Screen2: the Nano 33 IoT requires the “SAMD” board profile, which also
supports many other recent Arduino boards, including the Vidor and other MKR
series boards.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 37
you can connect devices like a USB
flash drive to it. Libraries to support
these features are included with the
board profile.
With features such as WiFi, USB and
onboard sensors, the chances of this
board having everything you need already present are quite good.
We were able to run all our tests
without even having to solder the
header pins. Size becomes the predominant factor.
The verdict
Screen3: the “WiFiNINA” library is required to use the WiFi module on the
Nano 33 IoT. This library also interfaces with the onboard crypto chip.
problem, that indicates a lack of total
compatibility.
The compiled code was around
33kB, larger again than for either of the
other Nanos. This is not unexpected as
the Nano 33 IoT has a 32-bit processor compared to the other boards’ 8-bit
processors. You can see the results in
Table 2. Those which we could not
run appear as blank rows.
It is substantially faster in almost
every test. The one outlier is the
analogRead(), which is much slower
on the Nano 33 IoT, presumably due to
a longer analog sampling time.
We also scanned the I2C bus to detect the onboard devices. The IMU IC
is at address 0x6A, which matches the
address in the LSM6DS3 datasheet
with its SA0 pin tied low.
The crypto chip was not listed, but
if it is like the Vidor, the address will
be 0x60.
To make use of the WiFi module,
you need the “WiFiNINA” library. This
can be installed through the Library
Manager (accessible from the Sketch
→ Include Library → Manage Libraries… menu option) by searching for
“wifinina” search term.
See Screen3 for details; it is the topmost library.
The library also includes some sample code, found under the File → Examples → WiFiNINA menu. We tested
the ability of the board to use encryption with the “WiFiSSLClient” example sketch.
This requires the SSID and password of an internet-connected WiFi
network to be added, after which the
sketch connects to a Google server using HTTPS (port 443) and performs a
search with the query term “arduino”.
The retrieved text can then be displayed (after copying and saving) as
a web page.
There’s an old joke which says that
the “S” in “IoT” is for security. So it’s
refreshing to find that this IoT board
makes it so easy to connect and communicate using secure protocols.
You also need a library to use the onboard IMU. The recommended one is
called “Arduino_LSM6DS3” and can
be found by searching for its name
in the Library Manager, as shown in
Screen4.
Two example sketches show how to
read the orientation and rotation from
the sensor.
Another great feature of the SAMD21G18A is that it can operate as both a
USB device and a USB host, meaning
The Nano 33 IoT packs a lot into a
small size.
It’s a radical departure from the
original Nano and is not in the same
league: it’s pretty much better in every way (unless you need 5V I/Os) and
despite this, is cheaper than a genuine
original Nano.
Really, the only Nano feature that’s
left is the footprint!
We think this board will be very
popular. The ability to work as a USB
device such as a keyboard means we
may see the Arduino Micro board being replaced as the default choice for
applications that require it.
The minimum regulator input voltage of 4.5V means that it cannot run
from a Li-ion or LiPo cell, but that is
a minor quibble.
However, larger boards such as the
MKR range can run from a lithium
rechargeable battery and provide the
required charge and regulator functions.
Along with the Every, the ability to
use the board as surface-mounted components is helpful as it means you can
test your design on a breadboard, then
easily mount them on a larger PCB in
the final application.
Where to get them
As well as the Arduino online store
(https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduinonano), they are starting to appear at
other retailers, including:
Digikey: siliconchip.com.au/link/aav0
Mouser: siliconchip.com.au/link/aav2
Core Electronics: siliconchip.com.au/link/
aav1
Screen4: the IMU (inertial measurement unit) on the Nano 33 IoT can be easily
accessed using the “Arduino_LSM6DS3” library. Two example sketches are
included.
38
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Digi-key and Mouser both offer free
express international delivery for orders over AU$60, so if you order a
few Nanos (or one or two Nanos plus
some other parts), you won’t have to
pay for postage.
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$3.00
$5.00
$1.50
$2.00
$15.00
$10.00
$3.00
(FEB 19)
N-channel Mosfets Q1 & Q2 (SIHB15N60E) and two 4.7MW 3.5kV resistors (Cat SC4861) $20.00
IRD1 (TSOP4136) and fresnel lens (IML0688) (Cat SC4862)
$10.00
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD VERSION)
(FEB 19)
Short form kit (includes PCB and all parts, except for the extension cable) (Cat SC4851)
$10.00
SW-18010P vibration sensor (S1) (Cat SC4852)
$1.00
(JAN 19)
Main PCB with IC1 pre-soldered
Main PCB with IC1 and surrounding components (white box at top right) pre-soldered
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
Laser-cut clear acrylic case pieces
Set of extra SMD parts (contains most SMD parts except for the digital audio output)
Extendable VHF whip antenna with SMA connector: 700mm ($15.00) and 465mm ($10.00)
PCB-mounting SMA ($2.50), PAL ($5.00) and dual-horizontal RCA ($2.50) socket
(AUG 18)
PCB and all onboard parts (including optional ones) but no SD card, cell or battery holder
$40.00
USB PORT PROTECTOR COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4574)
(MAY 18)
PARTS FOR THE 6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
(OCT 17)
All parts including the PCB and a length of clear heatshrink tubing
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
P&P – $10 Per order#
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS KIT (CAT SC4658)
$60.00
$80.00
$69.90
$20.00
$30.00
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
One ERA-2SM+ & one ADCH-80A+ (Cat SC1167; two required)
$15.00
$69.90
$15.00/pk.
MICROBRIDGE COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4264)
(MAY 17)
PCB plus all on-board parts including programmed microcontroller (SMD ceramics for 10µF) $20.00
STATIONMASTER (CAT SC4187)
(MAR 17)
Hard to get parts: DRV8871 IC, SMD 1µF capacitor and 100kW potentiometer with detent
$12.50
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- ISD1820-based voice recorder / playback module (Junk Mail Repeller, AUG19)
$4.00
- 23LCV1024-I/P SRAM (DIP) and MCP73831T charger ICs (UHF Repeater, MAY19)
$11.50
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB Mouse & Keyboard Adapator, FEB19)
$1.50
- LM4865MX amplifier IC & LF50CV regulator (Tinnitus/Insomnia Killer, NOV18)
$10.00
- 2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module with SD card socket (Tide Clock, JUL18)
$22.50
- ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Part 15, APR18)
$5.00
- MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (DIP-14) (AM Radio Transmitter, MAR18)
$2.50
- WiFi Antennas with U.FL/IPX connectors (Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi, FEB18):
5dBi – $12.50 ~ 2dBi (omnidirectional) – $10.00
- NRF24L01+PA+NA transceiver with SNA connector and antenna (El Cheapo 12, JAN18)
$5.00
- WeMos D1 Arduino-compatible boards with WiFi (SEPT17, FEB18):
ThingSpeak data logger – $10.00 ~ WiFi Tank Level Meter (ext. antenna socket) – $15.00
- Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player/Recorder, VS1053, JUL17)
$20.00
- 1nF 1% MKP (5mm lead spacing) or ceramic capacitor (Wide-Range LC Meter, JUN18)
$2.50
- MAX7219 LED controller boards (El Cheapo Modules, Part 7, JUN17):
8x8 red SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ~ red 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
- AD9833 DDS module (with gain control) (for Micromite DDS, APR17)
$25.00
- AD9833 DDS module (no gain control) (El Cheapo Modules, Part 6, APR17)
$15.00
- CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
- microSD card adaptor (El Cheapo Modules, Part 3, JAN17)
$2.50
- DS3231 real-time clock module with mounting spacers and screws (El Cheapo, OCT16)
$5.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Place an order on our website for an accurate quote.
10/19
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB ONLY. If you want a kit, check our store or contact the kit suppliers advertising in this
issue. For unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
NOTE: Not all PCBs are shown here due to space limits but the Silicon Chip Online Shop has boards going back to 2001 and beyond.
For a complete list of available PCBs etc, go to siliconchip.com.au/shop/8 Prices are PCBs only, NOT COMPLETE KITS!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC
DEC 2015
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
PRECISION 50/60Hz TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
JUN 2016
UNIVERSAL TEMPERATURE ALARM
JULY 2016
BROWNOUT PROTECTOR MK2
JULY 2016
8-DIGIT FREQUENCY METER
AUG 2016
APPLIANCE ENERGY METER
AUG 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 64
AUG 2016
CYCLIC PUMP/MAINS TIMER
SEPT 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 (4 layer)
SEPT 2016
AUTOMOTIVE FAULT DETECTOR
SEPT 2016
MOSQUITO LURE
OCT 2016
MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
MINI MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
50A BATTERY CHARGER CONTROLLER
NOV 2016
PASSIVE LINE TO PHONO INPUT CONVERTER
NOV 2016
MICROMITE PLUS LCD BACKPACK
NOV 2016
AUTOMOTIVE SENSOR MODIFIER
DEC 2016
TOUCHSCREEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT REFERENCE
DEC 2016
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. CONTROL BOARD
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. MOSFET BOARD
JAN 2017
GPS SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
FEB 2017
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER
FEB 2017
POOL LAP COUNTER
MAR 2017
STATIONMASTER TRAIN CONTROLLER
MAR 2017
EFUSE
APR 2017
SPRING REVERB
APR 2017
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MAY 2017
MICROBRIDGE
MAY 2017
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
MAY 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER PCB
JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER FRONT PANEL JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER CASE PIECES
JUN 2017
RAPIDBRAKE
JUL 2017
DELUXE EFUSE
AUG 2017
DELUXE EFUSE UB1 LID
AUG 2017
MAINS SUPPLY FOR BATTERY VALVES (INC. PANELS)
AUG 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER PANELS
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER CASE PIECES SEPT 2017
6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
OCT 2017
KELVIN THE CRICKET
OCT 2017
6GHz+ FREQUENCY COUNTER CASE PIECES (SET)
DEC 2017
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO PCB
DEC 2017
PCB CODE:
04203151/2
04203153
18105151
04106151
04106152
04106153
04104151
01109121/2
15105151
15105152
18107151
04108151
16101141
01107151
15108151
18107152
01205141
01109111
07108151
03109151/2
01110151
19110151
19111151
04101161
04101162
01101161
01101162
05102161
16101161
07102121
07102122
11111151
05102161
04103161
03104161
04116011/2
04104161
24104161
01104161
03106161
03105161
10107161
04105161
04116061
07108161
10108161/2
07109161
05109161
25110161
16109161
16109162
11111161
01111161
07110161
05111161
04110161
01108161
11112161
11112162
04202171
16110161
19102171
09103171/2
04102171
01104171
04112162
24104171
07104171
01105171
01105172
SC4281
05105171
18106171
SC4316
18108171-4
01108171
01108172/3
SC4403
04110171
08109171
SC4444
06111171
Price:
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$15.00
$15.00
$2.50
$20.00
$15.00
$7.50
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00
$15.00
$20.00
$15.00
$15.00
$7.50
$7.50
$6.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00/pair
$20.00
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$2.50
$15.00
$15.00/set
$7.50
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$7.50
$12.50
$15.00
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$25.00
$20.00
$20.00/pair
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$25.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO CASE PIECES
THEREMIN
PROPORTIONAL FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
WATER TANK LEVEL METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
10-LED BARAGRAPH
10-LED BARAGRAPH SIGNAL PROCESSING
TRIAC-BASED MAINS MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
HEATER CONTROLLER
DELUXE FREQUENCY SWITCH
USB PORT PROTECTOR
2 x 12V BATTERY BALANCER
USB FLEXITIMER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
WIDE-RANGE LC METER CLEAR CASE PIECES
TEMPERATURE SWITCH MK2
LiFePO4 UPS CONTROL SHIELD
RASPBERRY PI TOUCHSCREEN ADAPTOR (TIDE CLOCK)
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER
BRAINWAVE MONITOR (EEG)
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS
DOOR ALARM
STEAM WHISTLE / DIESEL HORN
DCC PROGRAMMER
DCC PROGRAMMER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
OPTO-ISOLATED RELAY (WITH EXTENSION BOARDS)
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE
LED CHRISTMAS TREE
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (JAYCAR VERSION)
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (ALTRONICS VERSION)
HIGH-SENSITIVITY MAGNETOMETER
USELESS BOX
FOUR-CHANNEL DC FAN & PUMP CONTROLLER
ATtiny816 DEVELOPMENT/BREAKOUT BOARD
ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MAIN PCB
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MOUNTING PLATE
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER EXTENSION PCB
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD) PCB
USB MOUSE AND KEYBOARD ADAPTOR PCB
REMOTE-CONTROLLED PREAMP WITH TONE CONTROL
PREAMP INPUT SELECTOR BOARD
PREAMP PUSHBUTTON BOARD
DIODE CURVE PLOTTER
FLIP-DOT COIL
FLIP-DOT PIXEL (INCLUDES 16 PIXELS)
FLIP-DOT FRAME (INCLUDES 8 FRAMES)
FLIP-DOT DRIVER
FLIP-DOT (SET OF ALL FOUR PCBS)
iCESTICK VGA ADAPTOR
UHF DATA REPEATER
AMPLIFIER BRIDGE ADAPTOR
3.5-INCH SERIAL LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER ADC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER DAC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CPU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER PSU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CONTROL BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER LCD ADAPTOR
DSP CROSSOVER (SET OF ALL BOARDS – TWO DAC)
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL BOARD
BATTERY ISOLATOR MOSFET BOARD (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR/VOLTAGE INTERCEPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR (LFSR)
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER BOARD
HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN BOARD
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR PUSHBUTTON BOARD
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
NEW PCBs
HIGH RESOLUTION AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
PUBLISHED:
DEC 2017
JAN 2018
JAN 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
APR 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JULY 2018
JULY 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
SEPT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
JUNE 2019
JUNE 2019
JUNE 2019
JULY 2019
JULY 2019
JULY 2019
AUG 2019
AUG 2019
AUG 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
OCT 2019
OCT 2019
PCB CODE:
Price:
SC4464
23112171
05111171
21110171
04101181
04101182
10102181
02104181
06101181
10104181
05104181
07105181
14106181
19106181
04106181
SC4618
SC4609
05105181
11106181
24108181
19107181
25107181
01107181
03107181
09106181
09107181
09107181
10107181/2
04107181
16107181
16107182
01110181
01110182
04101011
08111181
05108181
24110181
24107181
06112181
10111191
10111192
10111193
05102191
24311181
01111119
01111112
01111113
04112181
19111181
19111182
19111183
19111184
SC4950
02103191
15004191
01105191
24111181
01106191
01106192
01106193
01106194
01106195
01106196
SC5023
05105191
01104191
04106191
01106191
05106191
05106192
07106191
05107191
16106191
11109191
11109192
07108191
01110191
01110192
16109191
$25.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$25.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$17.50
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$40.00
$5.00
$7.50
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
04108191
04107191
$10.00
$5.00
WE ALSO SELL AN A2 REACTANCE WALLCHART, RTV&H DVD, VINTAGE RADIO DVD PLUS VARIOUS BOOKs IN THE “Books, DVDs, etc” PAGE AT SILICONCHIP.COM.AU/SHOP/3
Low cost . . . Easy to build . . . Highly accurate . . . An essential piece of test equipment!
ARDUINO-BASED
DIGITAL AUDIO
MILLIVOLTMETER
If your hobby or business involves audio
– at any level – you really must have an audio millivoltmeter
in your test gear arsenal. Once you’ve used one, you’ll wonder how
you managed without it. It’s useful for setting up and calibrating audio systems, doing
performance measurements and troubleshooting audio equipment, and much more. This
one doesn’t just measure low-level signals. It provides high-resolution measurements of
balanced or unbalanced audio signals from below -85dBV (56µV RMS) to above +35dBV
(60V RMS)! It’s easy to build and has automatic range switching and can log data to a PC.
by Jim Rowe
42
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Features & specifications
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Unbalanced measurement range:
Balanced measurement range:
Frequency range:
Resolution:
Measurement linearity:
Basic accuracy:
Input Impedance:
Maximum input level:
Power supply:
• Current drain:
W
e decided to design a new
audio millivoltmeter because we wanted one which
worked over a very wide range of signal amplitudes with excellent accuracy and resolution.
We also wanted to provide the
ability to measure balanced or unbalanced audio signals without the
need for any additional hardware.
But most of all, we wanted it to be
easy to build and would fit in a compact case.
So why build this one instead of
our previous audio millivoltmeter
(March 2009 – siliconchip.com.au/
Article/1372)?
For many reasons, this new unit
makes that old one obsolete:
• It can measure smaller signals and
much larger signals.
• It has much better resolution.
• Its frequency response (on both
ranges) is much better (see Fig.1).
Some potential uses:
4 Audio performance measurements
o
(signal-to-noise ratio, frequency response, sensitivity, power output,
channel separation, crosstalk,
amplifier gain etc)
4 Crossover adjustment
o
4 Equalisation and room response
o
adjustments (in combination with a
microphone & preamp)
4 Amplifier calibration
o
4 Amplifier & preamplifier troubleo
shooting and repair
siliconchip.com.au
A compact high-resolution digital audio millivolt/voltmeter with
balanced and unbalanced inputs, backlit LCD readout, automatic
range switching and the ability to send its data to a PC.
from <56µV RMS (-85dBV) to 60V RMS (+35dBV)
from <56µV RMS (-85dBV) to 600mV RMS (-4.5dBV)
5Hz-110kHz (+0/-3dB); 20Hz-70kHz (+0/-0.5dB); 50Hz-45kHz (+0/-0.1dB)
24 bits (1 part in 16,777,215)
±0.3dB
approximately ±0.1% after calibration
1MΩ/10kΩ (unbalanced input) or 760kΩ (balanced input)
as per measurement ranges
5V DC via USB mini Type-B socket, either from a USB charger or a
PC USB port
<78mA (390mW at 5V)
• It has a built-in balanced input (no
separate converter required).
• It does not require manual range
selection
• It runs off USB power.
• It is quite a bit smaller.
Some of the improvements in this
version are due to our use of an Arduino Nano MCU module for control, while most of the performance
improvements are due to our use of
an LTC2400 24-bit analog-to-digital
converter (ADC).
This gives much higher measurement resolution than the 10-bit ADC
built into most Arduinos.
The result is a unit that’s much
more convenient to use, with higher
performance and it fits into a diecast
box measuring only 119 x 94 x 57mm.
That’s less than half the volume of the
earlier version.
We estimate the total cost for everything you’ll need to build this project
DIGITAL MILLIVOLT/VOLTMETER FREQUENCY RESPONSE
• Description:
to be under $250, including GST. That
compares more than favourably with
what you’d pay for a similar commercial instrument.
To give you an idea of why you
might want to measure down to
-85dBV, if you have a 100W amplifier
which can drive 8Ω loads, at full power
it’s delivering 28.28V RMS (√(100W x
8Ω) across the speaker. That equates
to +29dBV.
For such an amplifier, a noise level of -85dBV therefore would mean a
signal-to-noise ratio of 114dB (85dB
+ 29dB). A good amplifier can achieve
that.
So if you had a meter which couldn’t
measure down to -85dB, you couldn’t
come close to getting an accurate measurement of the signal-to-noise ratio of
such an amplifier.
The best our 2009 design could
achieve was -76dBV, limiting you to
SNR measurements of no better than
+1dB
0.0d
0.
0dB
B
HIGH RANGE
–0.5
–0
.5dB
dB
LOW RANGE
–1.0
–1
.0dB
dB
–1.5
–1
.5dB
dB
–2.0
–2
.0dB
dB
–2.5
–2
.5dB
dB
–3.0
–3
.0dB
dB
1Hz
10Hz
100Hzz
100H
1kHz
FREQUENCY
10kHz
100kHz
Fig.1: a frequency response plot for our prototype in the low range (blue)
(measured at 600mV RMS) and high range (red). This demonstrates that
the reading is within 0.5dB of the actual signal amplitude over the entire
audible range and beyond. It’s within 0.1dB from 50Hz to 45kHz.
Australia’s electronics magazine
1MHz
SC
20 1 9
October 2019 43
CON1
BALANCED
INPUT
SCL
DIFFERENCE
AMP
SDA
IC1
S1a
100:1
DIVIDER
CON2
UNBALANCED
INPUT
LOG AMP/
DETECTOR
(IC3)
SCK
24-BIT
ADC
(IC4)
D9
MISO
SS
+
Q1
REED RELAY
D2
+
SAMPLING
LED
ARDUINO
NANO
MCU
2.500V
REFERENCE
RLY1
INPUT SELECT
SC
20 1 9
BUFFER AMP
& LOW-PASS
FILTER (IC2)
16x2 I 2 C SERIAL
LCD MODULE
LED1
Vbus
D–
D3
D+
USB SKT TO
POWER/PC
1
2
3
X
4
S1b
Fig.2: this block diagram shows the operating principle of the Meter. IC1 converts a balanced signal to unbalanced
and S1 selects between the two inputs. The signal then either passes through RLY1 or a 100:1 divider, depending on
whether Q1 (and therefore RLY1) is energised, giving the unit its two ranges. The signal is then buffered, filtered and
fed to the logarithmic detector before passing to the ADC and onto the Arduino.
about 105dB for a 100W amp, and
considerably worse than that for lower-powered amplifiers, or line-level
devices.
How it works
Fig.2 is a simplified block diagram
of the new meter. At its heart is IC3, an
Analog Devices AD8307 logarithmic
amplifier/detector. This is the same
device used in our earlier meter.
The AD8307 has impressive specifications: it can convert AC signals into
a DC voltage equivalent, following a
logarithmic ‘law’ of 25mV per dB (typically linear to within ±0.3dB) and with
a span of just on 100dB. The device
also operates up to around 500MHz,
so it’s just ‘idling’ at audio frequencies.
In the new meter, we are feeding
IC3’s output to IC4, an LTC2400 24bit delta/sigma ADC. This measures
the output of IC3 relative to an accurate 2.500V DC provided by an LT1019
Fig.3: the full circuit follows much the same pattern
as Fig.2, but you can see that some details were
left out of the earlier diagram, such as the input
RF filtering. VR1 allows the 100:1 divider to be
accurately trimmed while VR2 calibrates the output
of the log detector.
44
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
bandgap voltage reference. The resulting 24-bit digital samples are passed
to the Arduino Nano via SPI (serial
peripheral interface).
The microcontroller then processes the samples to calculate the corresponding measurements, which are
displayed on the LCD module shown
at upper right in Fig.2.
They’re also sent out via the D- and
D+ lines of the USB socket at lower
right, for logging via a PC if required.
The micro gives an indication of when
sampling is taking place by lighting
LED1.
The elements on the left-hand side
of Fig.2 have been added to provide
input buffering, low-pass filtering (to
reject RF or other unwanted signals),
range selection and selection between
the unbalanced and balanced inputs.
IC1 is an AD629B high commonmode voltage rejecting difference amplifier, used to convert the balanced
input signals from XLR socket CON1
into an unbalanced signal. Switch S1a
then selects between the unbalanced
signals from either CON2 or the out-
put of IC1, with the other half of the
double-pole switch (S1b) allowing the
micro to detect which input is currently selected.
The signal then goes into the range
switching section, where a reed relay
controlled by the micro via transistor
Q1 is used to select between either the
input signal divided by 100 (for the
high range, up to 60V), or bypassing
the divider (for the low range).
The signal is then fed to IC2, a dual
op amp with the first stage used as a
unity-gain buffer and the second stage
as a low-pass filter.
This removes, or at least significantly reduces, any noise (including digital switching artefacts from the control
circuitry) which may be induced into
the analog signal.
The full circuit
You’ll find more details in the main
circuit diagram (Fig.3). The signal
from the balanced input at CON1 is
filtered using a common-mode choke
(T1) and a 47pF capacitor to remove
RF signals, before being coupled via
two high-voltage capacitors to the
inputs of IC1, the balanced-to-unbalanced converter.
This allows for balanced commonmode signals up to 400V peak from
Earth.
A 2.5V bias signal is applied to the
REF- and REF+ inputs of IC1 (pins 1
& 5), biasing its input signals to half
of the 5V supply, to allow for a symmetrical signal swing before it runs
into clipping.
The signal from the unbalanced input, CON2, is also RF filtered using
inductor L1 and a 22Ω series resistor
and 22pF capacitor to ground.
The output from selector switch S1
is AC-coupled to the precision 100:1
voltage divider, the upper portion of
which is shorted out when the contacts
of RLY1 are closed for measuring lower
level signals. Trimpot VR1 is used to
‘fine-tune’ the divider for calibrating
the Meter’s HIGH range.
The way the divider works, and the
reason for selecting these exact component values, is shown in more detail in Fig.4.
The components around IC2b form a
second-order multiple-feedback low-pass
filter, followed by another passive RC
low-pass filter, to reject high-frequency
signals before IC3 detects them.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 45
Fig.4: the details of the precision
100:1 divider. Starting with the
choice of a 10kΩ
Ω 0.1% resistor
in the bottom leg (which can have
a value from 9.99kΩ
Ω to 10.01kΩ
Ω),
that means we need a total
resistance in the upper leg of
990kΩ
Ω±990Ω
Ω.
Taking into account the tolerance
of the fixed resistors in that upper
leg, a 5kΩ
Ω potentiometer
gives sufficient scope for adjusting for precisely the right attenuation factor.
The values are selected so that trimpot VR1 can be used to set the divider ratio to precisely 100:1 without restricting its rotation to a narrow portion of its range. VR1 can compensate
for within-tolerance variations in the
four 0.1% tolerance fixed resistors.
Note that as well as forming the
lower leg of the divider for the Meter’s HIGH range, the 10kΩ 0.1% resistor also forms the input resistance
for the Meter’s LOW range, for the unbalanced input.
That’s because when RLY1 is
switched on to short out the divider’s
upper arm for the LOW range, the lower part of the divider still provides the
DC bias for input pin 3 of IC2a.
Pin 21 of the Arduino (the D3 digital input) is used to monitor the position of S1, while pin 20 (digital output
D2) controls the range selection relay
(RLY1) via NPN transistor Q1. Diode
The AD8307 logarithmic
amplifier/detector
D1 protects transistor Q1 from damage due to the back-EMF generated by
the coil of RLY1 when it switches off.
Schottky diodes D2 and D3 protect
IC2a from overload damage, by clamping its pin 3 input voltage within a few
hundred millivolts of the supply rails,
even if the input signal amplitude is
too high for the meter to measure accurately.
The purpose of IC2a is to buffer the
signal from the divider to provide a
low-impedance source for the following low-pass filter, which is built around
the other half of the dual op amp, IC2b.
This is a second-order (-12dB/octave) ‘multiple feedback’ low-pass filter with a -3dB point of around 52kHz.
This was chosen to give a very flat response up to 20kHz, then a steep rolloff above audio frequencies.
This filter is important since, as stated earlier, the log converter (IC3) has
+INPUT
a wide bandwidth of up to 500MHz.
So any digital noise or RF picked up
before this point will add to the signal being detected and give erroneous
readings. Therefore, we want to ensure
that all ultrasonic frequency signals
are severely attenuated.
This filter type and its values were
chosen carefully for this role, as a
multiple-feedback filter has a significant advantage over the more common
Sallen-Key type in that it still provides
excellent attenuation for signals above
the op amp’s bandwidth, and it is far
less reliant on said bandwidth to provide the expected filter attenuation.
This was all explained in detail
on pages 44 & 45 of the May 2018 issue, in an article titled “LTspice Simulation: Analysing/Optimising Audio Circuits” (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11063). A second-order multiple-feedback resistor needs just one
more resistor than a Sallen-Key type,
which is well worth it for its superior
high-frequency attenuation.
The inputs of IC2a & IC2b are biased
to the 2.5V rail, both through its connection to the bottom of the switchable voltage divider ladder, as well as
it being fed directly to pin 5 of IC2b.
Again, this biases the AC signal fed
to these rail-to-rail op amps so that it
swings symmetrically within the 5V
supply.
SIX 14.3dB GAIN, 900MHz BANDWIDTH AMPLIFIER/LIMITER STAGES
–INPUT
AD8307
INT
SET
INTERCEPT
Logarithmic amplifier/detector ICs are a fairly
3 x PASSIVE
CURRENT
ATTENUATOR
specialised but quite useful device. You can get an
MIRROR
CELLS
idea of how they work from the diagram at right,
2 A/dB
which gives a simplified view of what’s inside the
NINE FULL-WAVE DETECTOR CELLS WITH
OUT
DIFFERENTIAL
OUTPUT
CURRENTS
–
ALL
SUMMED
AD8307 device.
25mV/dB
The incoming AC signals pass through six casENB
BANDGAP REFERENCE
INPUT – OFFSET
12.5k
caded wideband differential amplifier/limiter stagAND BIASING
COMPENSATION LOOP
es, each of which has a gain of 14.3dB (about 5.2
times) before it enters limiting. This gives a total
OFS
COM
gain of about 86dB, or around 20,000 times.
The outputs of each amplifier/limiter stage are fed to a series of -93dBV (22.4µV) up to +7.0dBV (2.24V). This logarithmic relationnine full-wave detector cells, along with similar outputs from three ship is linear to within ±0.3dB over most of the range.
The output current (IOUT) increases at a slope of very close
cascaded passive 14.3dB attenuator cells connected to the input
to 2µA per dB increase in AC input level, and when this current
of the first amplifier/limiter.
The differential current-mode outputs of all nine detector cells passes through a 12.5kΩ load resistor inside the chip, the result
are added together and fed to a ‘current mirror’ output stage, which is a DC output voltage of 25mV/dB. This slope can be fine-tuned
using an external adjustable resistor in parallel with the 12.5kΩ
effectively converts them into a direct current.
Because of the combination of cascaded gain and limiting in the internal resistor.
The “set intercept” (SI) pin allows you to adjust the DC offset in
amplifiers (plus an internal offset compensation loop), the amplitude of this output current is proportional to the logarithm of the the output current mirror, which sets the effective zero level point
of the chip’s output current and voltage, ie, the origin from which
AC input voltage.
This holds true over an input range of just on 100dB, from about the output slope rises.
46
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The audio signal is then AC-coupled
to input pin 8 of the AD8307 log detector. A 100Ω series resistor provides
additional RF filtering, in combination
with the 470pF capacitor between its
pins 8 and 1. Pin 1 is grounded via a
220µF capacitor, as we are not feeding
differential signals to this chip. The
INL input sits at the chip’s DC bias level
while the INH input swings above and
below that voltage.
Trimpot VR2 allows us to adjust
IC3’s ‘intercept’ point, calibrating the
Meter’s LOW measurement range. A
1µF capacitor smoothes the logarithmic output voltage from pin 4, and this
is then fed to the analog input of IC4,
the 24-bit ADC.
JP1, connected to pin 8 of IC4, changes the ADC’s internal sampling frequency to provide a ‘notch’ for rejecting either 50Hz or 60Hz ‘hum’ in the
signal from IC3.
So for use in Australia, it would be
set in the upper (50Hz) position, while
for use in the USA and other countries
with 60Hz mains power, you’d set it in
the lower position.
REF1 provides a very stable 2.5V reference to IC4, necessary for it to operate
with the high precision possible for a
24-bit ADC. This means its resolution
is 149nV (2.5V ÷ 224), so the limiting
factor in its performance will be system noise.
The reference has an initial tolerance
of ±0.05%, which equates to ±1.25mV.
REF1’s output also provides the 2.5V
biasing for IC1 & IC2 mentioned earlier.
The reference output is stabilised by
a Zobel network (5.6Ω & 10µF), as recommended in its data sheet.
The Arduino Nano communicates
with the ADC (IC4) with the standard SPI pins (ie, pins D10, D12 & D13)
while communication with the LCD is
via an I2C bus at pins A4/SDA and A5/
SCL. Sampling LED1 is driven from the
D9 digital output.
Construction
Most of the circuitry and components of the new Meter (including
the Arduino Nano) are mounted on a
PCB measuring 109 x 84mm and coded 04106191.
The only components not mounted
on the PCB are the LCD module, the
input connectors and input selector
switch S1. These mount on the box
front panel and connect to the PCB via
short lengths of wire.
Some of the components on the PCB
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: this PCB overlay diagram (and photo below) shows where the components
are mounted on the PCB, including the prebuilt Arduino Nano microcontroller
module. Most of the components are larger SMD types which are not difficult to
hand-solder. Some components, such as CON1, CON2 and S1 are mounted on the
lid (front panel) and wired back to the board using short leads.
are of the through-hole variety and
somewhat larger than the SMD components. So it’s best to fit the smaller
SMD parts first.
The location and orientation of all
parts are shown on the PCB overlay diagram (Fig.5), but you can also refer to
the photos. Note though that there may
be some slight differences between the
prototype and final PCBs.
There are no fine-pitch SMD parts;
all of them are reasonably generous
in terms of size and pin spacings, so
Australia’s electronics magazine
they are not difficult to handle. Start
by fitting all the SMD passives (resistors and capacitors), except for those
which are right next to one of the SMD
ICs, as these would otherwise make fitting the latter more tricky.
The usual technique is to tack one
side of the component onto its pad,
make sure it is sitting flat on the board
and properly aligned, then solder
the opposite pad (after waiting long
enough for the first joint to solidify).
Then wait a little longer and refresh
October 2019 47
Parts list – Digital Audio Millivoltmeter
1 119 x 94 x 57mm diecast aluminium box [Jaycar Cat HB-5064 or similar]
1 double-sided PCB, 109 x 84mm, code 04108191 (RevH)
1 Arduino or Duinotech Nano MCU module
1 USB Type-A to mini Type-B cable
1 16x2 backlit alphanumeric LCD module with I2C serial interface
[eg, SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP Cat SC4198]
1 panel-mount miniature DPDT toggle switch (S1) [Jaycar ST035, Altronics S1345]
1 panel-mount 3-pin female XLR connector (CON1) [Jaycar PS1930, Altronics P0804]
1 panel-mount BNC socket (CON2)
1 4-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (CON3)
1 4-pin female header socket, 2.54mm pitch (to connect LCD module)
1 2-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (for LED1)
1 3-pin header with jumper shunt (JP1)
1 SPST DIL reed relay with 5V/10mA coil (RLY1) [Jaycar Cat SY-4030 or similar]
2 5mm-long ferrite beads, 4mm outer diameter (L1,T1)
[Jaycar Cat LF-1250 or similar]
1 300mm length of 0.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire (for L1 & T1)
1 100µH SMD RF inductor (L2) [Jaycar Cat LF-1402 or similar]
4 25mm-long M3 tapped spacers
4 6mm-long untapped spacers
8 12mm or 15mm-long M3 panhead machine screws
2 9mm-long M3 countersunk head machine screws
2 M3 hex nuts and star lockwashers
4 16mm or 20mm-long M2.5 countersunk head machine screws
4 9mm-long untapped spacers, >2.5mm inner diameter
4 M2.5 hex nuts
6 PCB pins (optional; for TPGND, TP2.5V, TP5V & TP1-TP3)
Semiconductors
1 AD629BRZ high common mode voltage difference amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC1)
1 MCP602-I/SN dual rail-to-rail input/output op amp, SOIC-8 (IC2)
1 AD8307ARZ logarithmic amplifier/detector, SOIC-8 (IC3)
1 LTC2400CS8#PBF 24-bit ADC, SOIC-8 (IC4)
1 LT1019ACS8-2.5#PBF precision 2.500V voltage reference, SOIC-8 (REF1)
1 BC817-40 NPN transistor, SOT-23 (Q1)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 1N4148 silicon small signal diode (D1)
2 1N5711W-7-F schottky diodes, SOD-123 (D2,D3)
Capacitors (all SMD ceramic, 3216/1206 size unless otherwise stated)
2 220µF 6.3V X5R, SMD 3226/1210 size
2 100µF 6.3V X5R
2 22µF 10V X5R
3 10µF 16V X7R
1 10µF 250VDC metallised polypropylene,radial leaded [Panasonic ECQ-E2106KF]
1 1µF 50V through-hole ceramic or MKT
1 1µF 16V X7R
2 220nF 275VAC metallised polypropylene, radial leaded [Panasonic ECQ-U2A224ML]
1 220nF 16V X7R
(Code 220, 0.22 or 220n)
7 100nF 16V X7R (Code 100, 0.1 or 100n)
1 2.2nF 16V X7R (Code 2.2, .022 or 2n2)
2 470pF 100V C0G/NP0
(Code 470, .0047 or 470p)
1 47pF 100V C0G/NP0
(Code 47, .00047 or 47p)
1 22pF 250V C0G/NP0
(Code 22, .00022 or 22p)
Resistors (all SMD 1% 0.25W, 3216/1206 size unless otherwise stated)
1 910kΩ 0.1% 1 75kΩ 0.1% 1 51kΩ
1 10kΩ
1 10kΩ 0.1%
1 3.0kΩ 0.1% 1 4.7kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
2 1.2kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 100Ω
3 470Ω
1 22Ω
1 10Ω
1 5.6Ω
1 5kΩ multi-turn horizontal trimpot (VR1)
1 50kΩ multi-turn horizontal trimpot (VR2)
48
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
the first joint with a little extra solder
or flux paste.
With those passives all in place, you
can install the five SMD ICs. In each
case, they must be orientated correctly,
so find the pin 1 dot or divot on the
top face, and make sure it’s facing as
shown in Fig.5. If you can’t find the
dot, pin 1 is normally also indicated
by a chamfered edge on just that side
of the IC.
Again, locate the IC and tack one pin
down before soldering the other seven
pins, then refresh that initial joint. The
pins are spaced far enough apart to be
soldered individually. If you accidentally form a solder bridge between two
pins, add a little flux paste and then
clean it up using solder wick.
You can now fit the remaining SMD
passives, plus the two SMD diodes,
ensuring their cathode stripes face as
shown in Fig.5.
Next, fit transistor Q1. It has three
pins, so its orientation should be obvious. Make sure its leads are sitting
flat on the PCB before you solder it
in place.
The last SMD component is L2,
which is quite large. Spread a thin
smear of flux paste on both pads before you start.
You will need a hot iron to form
good solder joints due to the thermal
masses of both the PCB and the part.
Make sure you add enough solder and
heat it long enough to form good fillets.
Through-hole parts
Before proceeding, we need to
wind choke L1 and transformer/common-mode choke T1. These are both
wound on 5mm-long ferrite beads, using 0.25mm diameter enamel coated
copper wire.
L1 has three single turns, while T1
has three bifilar turns, wound by first
folding a 200mm length of the wire
in two, and then using the ‘doubled
pair’ to wind their three turns together.
Once both chokes are wound, cut
off the wire ends about 8mm from the
ends of the ferrite beads, scrape off
about 4mm of the enamel and then
lightly tin the wire ends so they will be
easy to solder into the PCB pad holes.
Just before you solder in the four
wires for T1, use your DMM to make
sure that the wire pairs do not ‘cross
over’; the left-most upper and lower
wires should be joined together, as
should the right-most upper and lower wires.
siliconchip.com.au
You can now proceed to fit the remaining through-hole parts. Start with
diode D1 (as usual, be careful with its
orientation). It’s then a good idea to install the six PC pins, if you are going to
use them. These make it easier to use
clip leads to connect your DMM to the
board during testing and calibration.
These are for TPGND, TP2.5V, TP5V
and TP1-TP3.
Next, mount the reed relay, again
taking care with its polarity. Follow
with the two multi-turn trimpots,
which are different values (so don’t get
them mixed up), followed by the 4-pin
header for CON3, the 3-pin header for
JP1 and the 2-pin header used to facilitate the connection of LED1.
Now is also a good time to install the
1µF through-hole capacitor, near IC4.
Before you mount the Nano board,
you will need to fit a short length of
wire shorting out its onboard diode
D1, on the underside; see the sidebar
photo and text for an explanation of
why this is necessary and how to do it.
Now solder the Arduino Nano module to the rows of pads on the board,
with its USB connector over the outside edge. Make sure it’s pushed all
the way down before soldering; it’s a
good idea to solder two diagonal pins
first, check that it’s flat and then solder the rest.
Finish up by mounting the three
large capacitors.
The final step at this stage is to solder the leads of LED1 to the pins of the
2-pin header fitted to the PCB, taking
care to connect them to the correct pin
(the longer anode pin goes to the inner
pin marked “A”). The leads should be
soldered to the pins so that the underside of the LED’s body is 28mm above
the top of the PCB.
Your Meter’s PCB assembly should
now be complete and ready to be fitted
into the box, once it has been prepared.
Before you do so, though, plug the
4-pin female socket onto CON3 and
place the shorting block in the correct position on JP1, to suit your local
mains frequency.
37.5
B
37.5
A
65
siliconchip.com.au
H
A
H
H
A
H
15
31
39
33
33
32.5
B
16
32.5
B
CL
47
47
A
24
8
29
9.5
29
24
33
33
12
23
D
C
12
A
A
9.5
A
CL
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
Fig.6: most of the holes that need to be made in the case go in the lid. Holes A are 3mm
diameter, B are 2.5mm, C 6.5mm and D 9mm. You’ll probably need a hole saw to cut
the 23mm, although you could use a 20mm stepped drill bit and then enlarge to 23mm
with a large tapered reamer. Note that holes “B” need to be countersunk after being
drilled. See the text for suggestions on how to make the large rectangular cut-out.
RIGHT-HAND
END OF CASE
25
3mm DIAMETER
2
17
3mm DIAMETER
ALL DIMENSIONS
IN MILLIMETRES
REAR OF CASE
CL
19.5
9
11
Preparing the box
Most of the holes you’ll need to drill
or cut in the box are in the lid, which
becomes the Meter’s front panel.
There are only three holes to be cut
in the base of the box: two circular
holes in the right-hand end for access
to trimpots VR1 and VR2, and one rectangular hole in the centre of the box
B
Fig.7: two holes need to be drilled in the C
side
L of the case to access the calibration
potentiometer screws, while a small rectangular cut-out on one of the long sides
provides access to the USB socket, both for power and optionally for logging
measurements to a PC.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 49
The pre-assembled display PCB mounts
so that the LCD lines up with the cutout
in the lid (which becomes the front
panel). Here we also show the four
mounting pillars and the input select
switch along with the XLR and BNC
sockets, with their connecting wires
already soldered in place and ready to
connect to the main PCB.
for materials and procedures for making panels.
You can then print, laminate and
attach it to the lid using thin double-sided adhesive tape or a smear
of silicone sealant.
The final step is to cut out the
holes in the dress front panel to
match those in the lid itself, using
a sharp hobby knife.
Final assembly
rear to allow access for the power/PC
USB connector.
You’ll find the location and sizes
of all of these holes in the two drilling diagrams (Figs.6 & 7). Most of the
holes are circular and can be drilled,
although the 23mm diameter hole for
XLR connector CON1 is best made using either a hole saw or by drilling a
circle of small holes and then cutting
between them using either a rat-tailed
file or jeweller’s saw.
The best plan for cutting the 65 x
15mm rectangular hole for the LCD
screen is to drill a 6mm diameter hole
inside each corner, to allow you to use
a small metal-cutting jigsaw to cut
along each side.
Then you can tidy up the edges us-
12mm LONG
M3 SCREWS
CON1
ing a small file.
For the rectangular hole in the rear
of the box, I first drilled a 9mm diameter hole in the centre, then used jeweller’s files to expand it out into the
final rectangular shape.
Once all of the holes have been
made, remove all burrs from the inside
and outside of each hole using one or
more small files.
As a final step in preparing the box
for assembly, you should fit a professional-looking panel on the lid.
We have produced a front panel
artwork for this project, which can be
downloaded free of charge from the
SILICON CHIP website (www.siliconchip.
com.au) as a PDF file. Also on that
website you will find various ideas
M2.5 x 16mm LONG
COUNTERSUNK SCREWS
TO ATTACH LCD MODULE
CON2
S1
9mm
LONG
UNTAPPED
SPACERS
S1
ARDUINO
NANO
25mm LONG
M3 TAPPED
SPACERS
2
LCD WITH I C
INTERFACE
(BEHIND)
10F
250V
6mm LONG
UNTAPPED
SPACERS
RLY1
MAIN PCB
12mm LONG M3 SCREWS
50
Silicon Chip
Glue an 80 x 40mm rectangle of 0.5mm thick clear plastic
sheet to the rear of the lid, just behind the LCD window. This is to keep
dust out and protect the LCD screen
from accidental scratches. It can be
cut from a clean takeaway container
lid or similar.
Then mount the LCD screen to the
underside of the lid using four 16mmlong M2.5 countersunk-head screws
with four 9mm long untapped spacers
and four M2.5 nuts, as shown in Fig.8.
Next, fit XLR connector CON1 to the
lid using two 9mm-long countersunkhead M3 screws with lock washers and
nuts on the rear.
After this, fit BNC connector CON2
using its matching lock washer, solder lug and nut, then input selector
switch S1.
To ensure that the switch is fixed
Australia’s electronics magazine
M2.5 NUTS
VR1
Fig.8: this ‘cut-away’ side
profile view of the assembled
unit shows how the various
parts attach to each other
and the back of the lid, and
also gives you an idea of the
connections needed from the
panel-mounted parts to the
PCB below.
siliconchip.com.au
“Left and right” views of the assembled project immediately before it is mounted in the diecast case. The input sockets and
selector switch are all connected to the PCB via short lengths of either tinned copper wire or, in the case of the BNC socket
(CON2), shielded cable. The photo at right compares with the diagram on the opposite page.
in place horizontally, you can drill a
small blind hole in the rear of the lid
to accept the spigot on the edge of the
switch’s flat washer.
Now up-end the lid/front panel and
solder stiff wire leads to the rear lugs
of CON1, CON2 and S1. These don’t
have to be very long; just long enough
to pass down through their matching
holes in the PCB when it’s fitted.
The only one that needs special
treatment is that for CON2, which
should ideally be made using a 25mm
length of shielded microphone cable.
Take care when separating the
screen wires at each end, to prevent
accidental shorts.
Once these extension leads have
been fitted, you are ready to mount the
PCB to the rear of the lid/front panel.
The PCB is mounted using four
25mm-long M3 tapped spacers, together with four 6mm long untapped
spacers, as shown in Fig.8. First at-
tach all four pairs of spacers to the
corners of the PCB, using 12mm-long
M3 screws passing up through the PCB
and the untapped spacers and then
into the 25mm tapped spacers.
The complete PCB-and-spacers assembly is then attached to the rear of
the lid/front panel, using four 12mmlong M3 screws.
While doing this, ensure that the
extension wires from CON1, S1 and
CON2 pass through their matching
holes in the PCB. And before you finally tighten up the screws, make
sure that the body of LED1 is protruding through its matching hole in the
front panel.
Now solder the ends of the extension wires from CON1, S1 and CON2
to their matching pads on the rear of
the PCB.
If all has gone well so far, you should
find that the pin ends of the 4-pin SIL
header fitted to the end of the LCD
module are now very close to those of
the socket plugged into CON3.
You should only need to bend the
module’s header pins down slightly
to meet the pins from CON3’s socket,
and then you can solder them together.
Your Meter is now complete, apart
from the final fitting of the front panel
assembly into the box.
But before you do this, it’s a good
idea to load the Meter’s firmware
sketch (program) into the Arduino
Nano.
This is done using the Arduino IDE,
running on a suitable PC, with the Meter connected to a USB port of the PC
via a standard USB Type-A to mini
Type-B cable.
Programming the Meter
The firmware program to be loaded into the Meter’s Arduino Nano is
called “AudiomVmeterMk2_sketch.
ino”, which you can download from
Ensuring that a low-cost Arduino Nano works reliably
There are Arduino Nanos . . . and there
are Arduino Nanos!
During the development of this project,
we discovered on two occasions that the
‘El Cheapo’ Arduino Nanos had started to
malfunction.
In both cases, diode D1 in the Nano’s
power supply had ‘blown’ and changed
into a high resistance, lowering the supply voltage to less than 2.8V.
This diode (an SS1 or an MBR0520) is
not really required when the Nano is powered from USB. It’s purely to protect the
USB port of the PC when the Nano is powered via a higher voltage supply fed directly
into its Vin pin.
Since the Nano and its associated circuitry (here, the Millivoltmeter) are always
going to be powered from the USB connector, there’s no reason why the diode
can’t be simply shorted out, to ensure reliable operation.
siliconchip.com.au
The problem is that the diode is fitted to
the underside of the Nano’s tiny PCB. This
makes it quite inaccessible if the Nano has
already been fitted to your Meter’s main PCB.
In fact, I had to virtually destroy the first Nano
to remove it from the main PCB to get at the
blown diode.
So we suggest that if you are going to
be using a low-cost Nano in your Millivoltmeter, you should first short out D1 with a
short length of wire, before mounting it on
the main PCB.
This should ensure reliable operation and
avoid the need for surgery at a later stage.
The photo at right shows where D1 is located, just below the Mini USB connector. The
diode is usually marked “B2”, although on
the one in the photo it looks more like “D2”
because there’s a tiny crater in the middle of
the B where the smoke came out.
It’s quite easy to short out the diode with a
short length of tinned copper wire, bent into a
Australia’s electronics magazine
tiny inverted ‘U’. If you use the same soldering iron you use to fit SMD components, it
can be done quite quickly if you’re careful.
Just make sure that the wire link doesn’t
protrude upwards very far, or it might touch
the top copper of your main PCB when the
Nano is mounted on it.
October 2019 51
This view of the right end of the PCB shows the two 15-turn trimpots, VR1 (left
– 5kΩ) and VR2 (right – 50kΩ) which are used to set the HIGH range calibration
and intercept adjust, respectively (see text). These pots line up with access holes
drilled in the end of the case.
the S ILICON C HIP website (www.
siliconchip.com.au). Save it in a folder where you’ll be able to find it later.
Now is also a good time to make
sure that you have the latest Arduino IDE (integrated development environment) installed. If not, you can
get it from www.arduino.cc/en/main/
software This software allows you to
compile and upload the code to the
Arduino board.
Plug the meter into your PC, and
its LCD backlight should light up,
showing that the Meter is receiving
5V power.
Assuming you’re running Windows, open Control Panel and select
“System and Security” and then “Device Manager”.
This should allow you to see the
Virtual COM Port that the Meter has
been allocated. It should also allow
you to set the baud rate for communication with the Meter. Set it to
115,200 bps.
Now start up the Arduino IDE and
load the sketch you downloaded earlier. In the IDE’s Tools menu, set the
Board selection to “Arduino Nano”
and the Processor to “ATMega328P
(Old Bootloader)”, then set the COM
Port to whichever one your Meter is
connected to, as determined earlier.
Open the sketch and then in the
Sketch menu, click on “Verify/Compile”.
When you get the “Compiling
Done” message, go to the Sketch menu
again and this time click on “Upload”.
The compiled sketch should then be
52
Silicon Chip
uploaded into the Nano MCU’s flash
memory.
After a few seconds, the Meter
should start up, giving you a brief
message on the LCD announcing itself. It will then start sampling from
whichever input S1 is set to select.
At this stage, the Meter may not
be giving sensible readings, since it
has yet to be calibrated. But you can
check the various DC voltages on the
PCB test points.
For example, you should find a
voltage very close to 5V between
TP5V and TPGND, while the voltage
at TP2.5V should read 2.500V with
respect to TPGND.
If those check out, you can now
install your meter in its box, by lowering it in and then screwing the lid
with the four M4 countersunk screws
supplied with it.
Calibration
For accurate results, your Meter
must be calibrated.
You’ll need access to an audio oscillator or a function generator, together
with a DMM capable of making accurate and reasonably high-resolution
AC voltage measurements in the range
from 500mV to 10V (RMS).
Power up the audio oscillator or
function generator and set it to provide a 1kHz signal with an amplitude of 600mV RMS (1.697V peakto-peak).
Check this level using your DMM,
and adjust the generator if necessary.
Then power up the Millivoltmeter
Australia’s electronics magazine
and connect the oscillator’s output
signal to the Meter’s unbalanced input (CON2), with S1 set appropriately.
After a few seconds, the Meter
should show a stable reading in both
millivolts and dBV, with the legend
“(L)” at lower right. This indicates
that the Meter has switched to its
lower range.
At this stage, the reading will probably differ a little from the correct value of 600mV and -4.437dBV.
So use a small screwdriver or alignment tool to adjust trimpot VR2 (INTERCEPT ADJUST), to bring the reading as close as possible to that correct
value. This calibrates the Meter’s low
range.
The next step is to calibrate the
Meter’s high range. Change the output level of the audio oscillator or
function generator to 10.000V RMS
(28.28V peak-to-peak), checking this
using your DMM again.
If your oscillator or function generator can’t provide an output that high
(which is quite common), you may
have to use a small amplifier to boost
its output.
An amplifier capable of doing just
that, very accurately, is described starting on page 92 of this issue.
Now connect the oscillator’s output
signal to the Meter’s unbalanced input (CON2) again, and after a couple
of seconds, the Meter should display
a new reading.
This time, the legend at the end of
the lower line should read “(H)”, to
show that it has now switched to the
higher range.
The new reading is likely to be fairly
near the correct value of 10.000V and
20.00dBV, but not spot-on. Correct it
by adjusting trimpot VR1 (CALIBRATE
HI RANGE).
Once this has been done, your new
Digital Millivolt/Voltmeter is calibrated and ready for use.
Logging measurements
All you need to do to log measurements to your PC is open up the Arduino Serial monitor, using the same
settings as described above for programming the Nano.
With the unit connected to your
PC, each time it takes a measurement, it will also be written to the serial monitor.
When finished, you can save the log
for later analysis (eg, using a spreadsheet program).
SC
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PROJECT:
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SKILL LEVEL: Beginner
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ADAM
SEE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS AT:
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A look back at our recent Battle of the Uni’s “Tech Wars 2019” –
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Arduino Motor
Driver Shields
Are you building an autonomous robot or
vehicle, or perhaps a CNC mill? You’ll need
motors and something to drive them. In this
article, we take a look at three motor driving
Arduino shields that could form the heart of
your next ‘mechatronics’ project.
by Tim Blythman
I
n the February 2019 issue, we described how to use three different stepper motor driver modules
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11405).
Stepper motors are great for precision
control, such as is needed for a CNC
machine or 3D printer, but they are
slow and power-hungry, and do not
suit every application.
Even in CNC machines, a conventional brushed DC motor may be used
for tasks such as spinning the cutting
tool or raising and lowering the platform.
A simple DC brushed motor (probably fitted with a gearbox) will turn
faster and with much more power than
a stepper motor, at a much lower cost.
They’re also pretty easy to control.
To control these types of motor from
a microcontroller, a different kind of
driver circuit and control module is
needed. To drive a brushed DC or universal motor in either direction, we
need a so-called H-bridge. All three
Arduino shields described here use
different integrated H-bridge driver
ICs.
It’s called an H-bridge because its
logical configuration resembles the
letter “H” in shape. You will see this
resemblance if you take a look at Fig.1.
This shows the four useful states of
an H-bridge. In the three shields described here, the entire H-bridge funcsiliconchip.com.au
tion, including control and switching elements, is incorporated entirely
within a single chip.
A shield is a module that can plug
directly onto an Arduino-compatible
main board, removing the need to wire
it up pin-by-pin.
Of course, the shield format
locks in a specific pin allocation
which cannot be easily changed,
but that is not usually a problem.
For example, all these shields are
designed to work with an Arduino Uno, but subsequent Arduino R3
format mainboards (eg, the Leonardo
and Mega) place PWM capable pins at
similar locations, meaning they should
work with those host controllers too.
But note that other boards may not
have been designed with the appropriate pin placements in mind and may
not work, even if the shield will physically plug into their headers.
It’s because of this Arduino-specific pinout that we won’t delve
into how these modules can be
controlled with a Micromite. It’s
certainly possible, and we recommend that you look at our Arduino
code samples if you’re thinking of
interfacing any of these with a Micromite.
Interestingly, one of the shields
makes use of an L298 IC. This IC (in
a different package) was also used in
Australia’s electronics magazine
one of the stepper motor drivers we
reviewed in the February article on
stepper motors mentioned above. We
noted at the time that the module being
described could also be used to drive
a pair of brushed DC motors.
However, the reverse is unlikely to
be true; we don’t think any of these
modules would make good stepper
motor drivers.
But one great thing about all three
of these shields is that they have outputs capable of driving two DC motors in either direction with varying
speeds. One of the shields can control
four motors.
It is handy to be able to control two
or more motors as that allows skidsteer control (like a military tank or
other tracked vehicle) to be implemented. While that has some disadvantages, it is elementary to implement in hardware as there are no complicated steering linkages or mechanisms. Skid-steer also provides the
option to turn on the spot.
Shield 1: Monster Moto shield
The first shield is labelled as a
Sparkfun “Monster Moto Shield”.
Sparkfun is a company based in the
USA which has been designing and
selling Arduino parts for many years.
Many of these designs have been copied, including, we suspect, the Monster Moto Shield.
Fig.1: four of the five possible configurations of an H-bridge; the fifth is the same
as (d) except that the braking current flows in the upper loop, which provides
no real benefit. In each case, the voltage across the motor and the current flow
path is shown, assuming a nominal 12V DC supply. In case (d), the current flow
direction depends on the direction of motor rotation at the time of braking. The
switches can be Mosfets, bipolar transistors, IGBTs or even relay contacts.
Unlike the other two shields in this
article, the Monster Moto Shield was
not supplied pre-fitted with headers.
This can be handy, as you may wish
to choose between stackable headers
and male headers, although the height
of the capacitors on this board would
probably not leave enough clearance
for another board to be fitted above.
We fitted our unit with male pin
headers for our tests.
The two chips which provide the
motor driver function take up around
one-third of the board space between
them. They are two ST Microelectronics VNH2SP30 ICs, which provide the
interface between logic level signals
and the motors.
Apart from these, there are two 35V
470µF bypass capacitors, two Mosfets
and an assortment of tiny surfacemounted components. The full circuit diagram for this shield is shown
in Fig.2.
The VNH2SP30 ICs
The Monster Moto shield is quite
simple, although it has quite a few
tiny SMD components. If necessary,
the driver ICs could be heatsinked
by the addition of self-adhesive PGA
heatsinks such as Jaycar Cat HH8580.
The red wire was added to allow
the shield to be powered from the
attached Arduino’s DC jack for testing
at modest power levels.
62
Silicon Chip
According to the data sheet of the
VNH2SP30, this chip can handle up
to 30A at 41V with PWM control at
up to 20kHz. These are absolute maximums; in practice, they are difficult
to achieve with this board, due to its
lack of heatsinking.
The 41V limit is also a bit misleading, as the datasheet says that the maximum sustained operating voltage for
the IC is 16V.
Two VNH2SP30 ICs are provided on
the shield, and each IC implements a
full H-bridge, meaning that two motors can be driven bi-directionally by
the shield.
Operation is typical for this sort of
IC. Two inputs (INA and INB) deterAustralia’s electronics magazine
mine the direction of rotation, and a
third input can be fed with a PWM
signal that modulates the outputs, allowing for speed control.
When input INA is high and input INB is low, the motor rotates in
one direction with a speed related
to the PWM duty cycle. If INA is low
and INB is high, the motor rotates in
the other direction. If both inputs are
high or both inputs are low, the motor is braked.
The chip provides current sensing and fault detection, and these
signals are fed to pins on the shield
for processing by an attached Arduino board.
The EN pin functions as an enable
input, and is pulled up by a resistor
on the shield during normal operation.
An internal fault condition will cause
this pin to be pulled to ground, disabling the device and alerting a connected microcontroller via pin A0 or
A1. These pins can also be driven low
to achieve the same shutdown effect
for each driver IC.
There is also a CS pin (current sense,
not chip select) which sources a current proportional to the motor current. A resistor on the shield converts
this into an analog voltage, which is
smoothed by an RC network before
being connected to an analog pin on
the shield (A2 or A3). This allows the
motor currents to be measured by the
attached Arduino’s analog-to-digital
converter (ADC) peripheral.
Other important components
Apart from the main driver ICs, a
pair of 470µF 35V capacitors bypass
the motor supply voltage. Two Mosfets, along with a resistor and zener
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the circuit of the Monster Moto
shield is quite minimal. The reverse
protection circuit comprising Mosfets
Q1 & Q2, zener diode ZD1 and the
associated 100kW resistor is taken
directly from the VNH2SP30 data sheet.
diode, provide reverse polarity protection to the driver ICs.
The ICs are only powered when a
voltage of the correct polarity (and
above the Mosfet’s threshold voltage)
is applied.
There are five LEDs to provide a
power-on indication for the shield as
well as power and direction indication
for the two bridge outputs, and thus
any connected motors.
Series resistors between the Arduino pins and the control inputs of
IC1 & IC2 protect those ICs should
the Arduino try to send control signals when the motor power supply is
absent, and pull-downs on the PWM
pins mean that the motors will not
turn if the pins are not being driven
siliconchip.com.au
(eg, while the Arduino is being programmed or reset).
Using it
Table 1 shows the I/O pin connections between this shield and an attached Arduino. They are mostly wellchosen, with the PWM control pins
being connected to PWM-capable outputs on the Arduino. The analog pins
are carefully chosen to avoid pins A4
and A5, which are multiplexed with
the hardware I2C function on Uno (ATmega328 chip based) boards.
It’s apparently quite an old design
as it lacks the header locations for the
dedicated I2C pins near AREF, and
thus appears to predate the Uno R3.
This should not cause any problems
Australia’s electronics magazine
unless you need to stack multiple
shields. The easy fix is to attach this
shield to the top of the stack.
The use of digital pin 3 may be problematic if this board is to be used with
a Leonardo, as the hardware I2C function is found on pins 2 and 3 on that
controller. Other 5V boards (such as
the Mega) should be fine, as they do
not have these sort of conflicts.
The VNH2SP30 data sheet indicates
a 3.25V minimum input level for the
logic level pins, meaning that operation may be borderline on 3.3V microcontrollers like the Micromite.
Power
Power for the motors is brought in
through a pair of large solder pads at
October 2019 63
one end of the board. The GND connection is common with the Arduino’s
GND, but there is no connection to the
VIN connection on the Arduino shield.
This means that you have to apply external power to test the board. A wire
could be soldered to the board if the
Arduino’s power needs to be fed from
the shield.
We soldered a wire from the Arduino’s VIN pin (on the shield) to the
shield’s positive supply to allow us
to test with a 12V plug pack feeding
the Arduino’s DC jack. This obviously only allows modest current levels,
but we were able to test our demonstration sketch.
The other two shields we’ll describe
later have a jumper to allow this connection to be made or broken without
soldering.
Also, the input power connection
sits directly above the ICSP header, so
care must be taken that the power connections do not bridge to this header
when the shield is plugged in.
Similarly, the motor outputs come
out near the USB socket end of the
board. The connections for motor
two come close to the USB socket.
They don’t appear to touch it, but attached wires may do so. We applied
some electrical tape to the top of the
USB socket on our Arduino board to
avoid mishaps.
Sample code
Our sample code (MonsterMoto_
Demo.ino) allows direct control of
each motor’s speed using commands in
the Serial Monitor. Enter a letter (“A”
or “B”, for the motor output), followed
by a number between -255 and 255
for the motor speed. Negative values
give rotation in the opposite direction
to positive values, and higher values
give faster rotation.
The code also prints the raw analog
values from the CS (current sense) pins
to the Console every 200ms.
The current sensing on the CS pin
has a nominal output ratio of 11,370,
meaning that a current of 11.37A or
11,370mA from the driver would result in a 1mA current from the CS pin.
This passes through a 1.5kW resistor
to convert it into a voltage suitable for
the Arduino’s ADC.
The ADC can read a maximum of 5V,
which corresponds to 3.33mA through
the sense resistor or a nominal 37.9A
(3.33mA × 11,370) at the driver output.
Given that there are 1024 steps in the
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Silicon Chip
ADC output, each step corresponds to
around 37mA of motor current.
Shield 2: FunduMoto shield
The FunduMoto is a bit of a contrast to the basic-but-powerful Monster Moto shield. The top of the shield
is more tightly packed with components. Not surprisingly, it boasts a
more diverse range of features and
options. Its circuit diagram is shown
in Fig.3.
CON1 and CON2 provide two different options for wiring up the motors,
while CON3 is for the motor power
supply and JP1 (labelled “OPT” on
the board) allows the Arduino’s VIN
rail to power the motors.
The shield also sports a buzzer and
several extra headers. It is well-suited to form the basis of a small robot
project, as these headers allow other
modules and motors to be easily and
directly connected to the shield.
The buzzer is quite loud and shrill.
It’s almost too alarming to be used for
anything but a genuine emergency, as
it’s unbearable to have it running for
too long.
CON4 and CON5 can be used to connect two servo motors, eg, for steering
control. These are controlled by pulses from digital outputs D9 and D2 respectively, and the pin-outs suit many
standard servos. CON6 and CON7 are
designed to allow two different types
of Bluetooth modules to be connected,
for remote control and feedback. CON8
allows just about any RGB LED to be
driven from the Arduino.
CON9, labelled “ping”, suits certain
ultrasonic distance sensor modules
(similar to those we reviewed in December 2016; see siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10470). Such a sensor could be
used by a robot to detect if it is about
to run into something and act to avoid
a collision.
If the ultrasonic distance sensor
could be mounted to the rotating head
of a servo motor, then the robot can detect not only what is straight in front of
it, but scan its surroundings by rotating
the servo motor via CON4 or CON5.
Its maximum supply voltage is 46V,
and it can source or sink up to 2A continuously on each channel. The maximum PWM frequency is 40kHz.
The bypass capacitor on the shield
is only rated to 25V, so this limits the
maximum supply voltage you can apply. Note that most Arduino boards
can only handle up to 20V on their
VIN pins (some only 15V, depending
on the voltage regulator fitted), so there
are multiple factors to be considered
when using this shield with motor
supply voltages above 15V.
The L298 IC has provision for a
shunt resistor to be used to measure
motor current, but this has not been
taken on the shield, meaning motor
current cannot be easily measured.
To add this would involve lifting two
of the IC’s pins (pins 2 and 19) and
fitting a shunt resistor between these
pins and ground.
Some signal conditioning components (eg, an RC filter or similar) would
also be needed to average the current
throughout a PWM cycle, if you want
current feedback.
Free-wheeling diodes are recommended for the outputs of the L298,
to absorb back-EMF spikes and also
energy generated by the motor as it
runs down; these are fitted, although
they are M7 silicon diodes (D1-D8;
equivalent to 1N4007) instead of the
recommended fast-recovery schottky
The L298P IC
The driver IC on this shield is an
L298P, which is the same one used in
our stepper motor article, mentioned
earlier, but in a different package. The
L298P includes two full-bridge motor
drivers, so can drive two motors bidirectionally.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The FunduMoto shield looks
complicated, but much of the space is
taken by headers for sensors and the
motors. The L298P has a large body
which could accommodate a heatsink.
The 2x6 2mm pitch header is for an
obscure automotive Bluetooth module.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the FunduMoto shield circuit shown here includes two motor driver ICs, numerous headers plus eight free-wheeling
diodes and a tactile pushbutton switch (S1) which can be used reset the attached Arduino processor board.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 65
diodes, which means they will run
hotter.
This shield also appears to predate
the Arduino Uno R3 layout, so any R3
shields should be stacked below this
shield to ensure that necessary connections are made.
Other components
The L298 has two inputs per motor channel for direction control. On
this shield, complementary drive signals are generated by a pair of tiny
74HC1G04 single inverter ICs (IC2
& IC3). While this reduces the number of I/O pins needed to control the
motors, it removes the option of driving both inputs low to force dynamic
braking.
This is a factor in making this shield
less suitable for driving stepper motors, as it is harder to generate some
intermediate step positions without
braking.
CON10 allows a three-wire analog
sensor (with GND, 5V & OUT connections) to plug straight in. You can also
use this header to tap off 5V power,
ground or make a connection to one
of the analog pins. The shield also has
an onboard reset button, in case you
can’t get to the one on the Arduino.
Using it
The VIN pin supplies power to the
Arduino board’s 5V voltage regulator,
similar to power being applied to its
DC jack. In spite of this, it’s not a good
idea to feed power in through the DC
jack to the attached shield, as there is
usually a small reverse polarity protection diode between the DC jack and
VIN pin on the Arduino board. The current drawn by the motors could burn
this diode out.
The better alternative is to feed power directly into the shield, either via
the VIN and GND pins or the screw terminals. The attached Arduino board
is then powered via its connection to
the VIN pin. Of course, there is no reverse polarity protection in this case.
The Arduino pin connections are
shown in Table 2. Apart from the direction, PWM and buzzer, none of the
functions shown in Table 2 have any
effect unless something is actually
connected to the shield, so the pins
remain available if needed for other
roles, for example, if a second shield
is attached.
We have written a sample Arduino
sketch to test some of the features; it
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operates similarly to the Monster Moto
shield sample sketch, except there
is no display of motor current. It is
named “FunduMoto_Shield_Demo.
ino”.
While LED1-LED4, near the motor
screw terminals, appear to be a handy
aid to show what the motor is doing,
they unfortunately both tend to light
up any time a motor is connected and
powered, presumably due to backEMF during the PWM off-cycle.
Shield 3: L293D-based motor
and servo shield
This shield is stocked by both Altronics (Cat Z6208A) and Jaycar (Cat
XC4472), and features two L293D dual
motor driver ICs as well as a 74HC595
serial-to-parallel shift register. On our
version of the board, all three ICs were
fitted via sockets. Its circuit is shown
in Fig.4.
It is a clone of a board originally
designed by the Adafruit company,
and it makes good use of the original
Uno’s six PWM outputs. It is a fairly
old design, and as such also lacks the
R3 header connections (this is becoming a theme...). The supplied headers
are not stackable, but being such a
bulky shield, it makes sense for it to
be the top-most board in a multi-shield
stack anyway.
The big upside of this board is that it
is capable of driving four bi-directional DC brushed motors. It also features
two servo headers, and all six analogcapable pins are brought out to headers
too (although these headers were not
fitted on the board we tested).
The L293D IC
The L293D motor driver IC is very
similar in function and layout to the
L298, although with more modest current and voltage capabilities. It has the
benefit of being available in a convenient 16-pin DIP format. Both Altronics
and Jaycar stock the bare L293D IC as
well as the shield, so you have the option of developing your own hardware
or even replacing a blown chip if that
were to happen (never!).
The IC is rated at 36V supply voltage and up to 600mA continuous current per channel. This is sufficient for
many of the smaller hobby or gear
motors that are around. The contact
between the IC and its socket may introduce extra resistance, so these ratings may not be achievable with the
socketed ICs.
Our version of the board is populated with 16V electrolytic capacitors,
so would not be able to withstand any
voltages higher than this (they could
be upgraded).
The IC itself also incorporates shunt
diodes, so direct connection to inductive loads is straightforward. It does
not provide any provision for detecting current.
The data sheet does not specify a
maximum PWM frequency, although
the consensus within the Arduino
community is that 5kHz is about the
maximum usable. The PWM signal is
fed into an enable (EN) pin, which is
shared by the two outputs that feed a
single motor.
By default, the AVR-based Arduino boards like the Uno have a default
PWM frequency of either 490Hz or
980Hz (depending on the pin), so will
be fine driving this shield if you don’t
change that.
The 74HC595 chip
The presence of a 74HC595 shift
register (IC3) means that this shield
does not require eight separate digital
outputs to drive the motor driver ICs.
That’s fortunate, as it would otherwise
use up a great many of the available
I/O pins on a standard Arduino.
Instead, the motor state is set
indirectly via the shift register, although the PWM outputs
come directly from the attached Arduino board, since
the shift register would not be
The L293D shield uses
all through-hole parts
and socketed ICs, making
replacement of damaged
parts easy.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the L293D shield circuit includes two dual motor driver
ICs, a shift register and various unpopulated headers which
are not shown on this diagram. See the board photo for their
connections.
able to update quickly enough. Table 3
shows the connections for this shield.
The OE (output tri-state) pin of the
shift register is also connected to an
Arduino pin, meaning the entire unit
and all its motor outputs can be effectively switched off by that one pin.
There are a handful of other components on the shield, including an assortment of capacitors and several unpopusiliconchip.com.au
lated headers. Two three-way headers
are fitted to one corner for servo motor
connections. A resistor network provides pull-downs on the outputs from
the shift register so that a safe state is
present during initialisation.
Screw terminals are provided for
feeding power in (CON3) as well as
the motor connections.
The motor connections are via two
Australia’s electronics magazine
five-way screw terminals (CON1 &
CON2), one at each end of the board,
with the centre terminal of each connected to ground.
This allows this shield to drive up
to eight devices (including lamps) if
polarity reversal is not needed, ie, by
connecting them between one motor
output and ground, instead of between
a pair of outputs.
October 2019 67
Like the FunduMoto shield, a
jumper (JP1, marked PWRJMP on this
shield) is provided to make or break
the connection between the motor
power supply and the Arduino’s VIN
pin.
Using it
Table 3 shows the L293D Motor
Shield’s connections.
We found that some of the pins on
the shield’s underside protruded quite
badly, so we trimmed the pins of the
screw terminal blocks and applied
insulation tape to the USB connector of our Uno before connecting it.
The pins were so long that the shield
would not sit flat on the Arduino before trimming.
While it may seem excessive for the
L293D motor shield to be able to drive
four motors, we think it would work
well with some of the four-wheeled
robot chassis that exist, like Jaycar Cat
KR3162 or Altronics Cat K1092.
The motors need not be driven
independently in software, and the
plentiful screw terminals make it
easier to terminate the motor wiring
separately.
Our test sketch for this shield is
called “L293D_demo.ino”. It operates
similarly to the other two sketches,
except that there are now four motors
available to be controlled, and they are
designated A through D, corresponding to M1 through M4 as marked on
the headers on the shield.
Summary
We did not try to push any of these
shields to their limits. Except for
the Monster Moto Shield, the voltage limits of the ICs are overruled
by the capacitors that have been installed. Our testing was also done
at quite low current levels, and you
may find that some form of heatsinking or ventilation may be needed at
higher currents.
The Monster Motor shield will drive
bigger motors than the other two, with
the FunduMoto shield being between
the other two in terms of motor size
capability.
It’s worth noting that due to the inductive nature of DC motors, voltages
higher than the supply might be present when the motors are switched
off, such as at the end of a PWM cycle.
The capacitors will need to be able to
handle this too.
For the basis of a simple robot car
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Australia’s electronics magazine
project, the FunduMoto shield would
work well. The various headers allow
many sensors and other devices to be
connected directly to the shield, simplifying the wiring for such a project.
If more motors need to be driven,
then clearly the L293D shield is the
best choice, with its ability to drive
four motors. Unfortunately, none of
the shields offer any option for pin
swapping, so there is no real option to
stack multiple boards to provide more
SC
outputs than this.
Table 1: Monster Moto
Shield Connections
Function
Motor 1
Motor 2
INA
7
4
INB
8
9
PWM
5
6
EN
A0
A1
CS
A2
A3
Table 2: FunduMoto Shield
Connections
Function
Pin
Direction
(Motor 1 & 2)
12 & 13
PWM
(Motor 1 & 2)
10 & 11
Buzzer
4
Servo 1
9
Servo 2
2
Analog
A0-A5
Ping Trigger
7
Ping Receive
8
RGB
3, 5 & 6
Bluetooth
0 & 1 (TX & RX)
Table 3: L293D Shield
Connections
Function
Pin
74HC595 Data
8
74HC595 Clock
4
74HC595 Latch
12
74HC595 Enable
7
PWM Motor 1-4
11, 3, 5 & 6
Servo 1
10
Servo 2
9
siliconchip.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
A shockingly cute new companion
Training pets, especially of the feline variety,
can be difficult. However, as is common
nowadays, there are likely close to a myriad
of ways to help. One method is via a “pet
training mat”, which emits a buzz and
‘small’ electric shock, with all the safety
you would typically expect from cheap
electronics sold online.
We recently got a new cat (or, perhaps more accurately, the cat got some
staff to look after it). This feline is as
cute as a button and therefore impossible to discipline properly.
While many cat owners allow their
pets to walk all over the kitchen benches and scratch the furniture, we don’t.
Footprints on work surfaces and shredded mattresses and armchairs may
well be part of the ‘joy’ of cat ownership, but we have always deterred our
furry housemates from this behaviour.
We’ve used several training methods over the years, the most technological of which was a slightly modified version of the Silicon Chip “NickOff” Bad Cat Deterrent (October 2012;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/502). We
found this worked for our cats at the
time.
However, they eventually got wise
to it and ended up blatantly ignoring
it. They would jump onto the cooktop and bench, to either drink out of
the sink (their expensive cascading
water fountain is obviously not good
enough!), or scavenge their share of
the roast we’d just eaten for dinner.
While we’d managed to train all our
cats, past and present, not to do this
with a combination of water squirting
bottles, sticky tapes, deterrent sprays
and electronics, the new addition did
and went where it liked. When the older cat saw this, his old habits started
creeping back in.
I’d long-since repurposed the NickOff for another project. But while I was
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Silicon Chip
browsing for parts to build another one
on AliExpress, I spotted a possible solution: electronic pet training mats.
These seem to be a hot product these
days, both on local and international
shopping sites. I was aware of such
devices, but in the past, I was put off
them because the one I saw was not
user-friendly and a bit too aggressive
in operation.
Admittedly, it was designed for a
medium-sized dog, but even on the
‘low’ setting it still delivered what I
considered a nasty shock, out of proportion to the ‘crime’ of the dog sitting
on the owner’s favourite chair. The
mat or sensor part of it was also rigid,
prickly to handle due to embedded
wires tracks and hard to clean.
I’ve never been a fan of giving electric shocks on purpose, having suffered a few ‘good ones’ over the years.
Because of this, I have some empathy and a natural aversion to deliberately shocking anyone (or anything). I
especially despise those ‘joke’ shockpens and cigarette lighters that were
all the rage at one point; I don’t think
lighting someone up deliberately is
funny at all. I can’t recall seeing anyone blitzed by one of those things rolling on the floor laughing. Mostly they
just look annoyed…
Anyway, I figured there must be
some better training mat options available these days, so I went online to
check. The modern versions are inexpensive and sized for different pets,
with adjustable shock levels and more
Australia’s electronics magazine
Maggie Thompson
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
The cat in the mat
Hot water system repair
Yamaha CR-1020 restoration
Mitsubishi ABS pump repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
flexible, easier-to-manage sensor mats.
I found similar products for sale at
local pet shops, but at significantly
higher prices.
The pitfalls of buying online
I’m not a cheapskate, but I do object
to being gouged by local sellers. The
typical reason thrown about for exorbitant mark-up on just about everything
imported into New Zealand is “shipping costs”. That excuse may have
washed fifty years ago, when nobody
really knew the true cost of goods,
but these days everyone knows that it
doesn’t justify the prices many local
sellers try to charge.
So it is no wonder that buying from
overseas vendors is increasingly popular!
But there are challenges to ordering online. So many products look
very different when they arrive from
the often-doctored pictures on vendors’ sites.
The benefits of buying locally are obvious; stores typically have what you
want, have regular sizing and naming
conventions throughout product ranges, and you can always take something
back and (typically) get a refund or a
replacement if necessary. Sending anything, especially something of relatively
low value, back to an overseas vendor
is usually neither practical nor financially feasible.
In practice, I shop locally for some
items and use overseas vendors only
when this makes financial sense, or if
siliconchip.com.au
a job isn’t time-critical. I’ve made hundreds of online trades for all manner
of goods, generally from China and
the USA, and while I have had mostly
positive experiences, there have been
some hiccups.
I purchased several cameras from
China only to be disappointed. One, a
GoPro-style action camera, claimed to
be able to record video at 4K resolution
(3840x2160 pixels) and 60 frames per
second (fps). This is ostensibly backed
up by the words 4K emblazoned across
the front of the case.
But my attempts to record anything
with it higher than 720p (1280 x 720
pixels) and 25fps resulted in unusable
video. It’ll record at 4K, but only at
around 1fps. If a local retailer advertised and sold such a product, their
shop would be razed by a pitchforkand-torch-wielding mob. But online
vendors will happily hawk this and
similar products with the knowledge
that there’s little we can or will do
about it.
Another much more expensive action camera I bought online last year (I
was learning!) works much better, but
still had problems. It will record at 4K
and 60fps and has remote control via
app, Bluetooth and WiFi, among others. But the battery went flat overnight,
even when the camera was switched
siliconchip.com.au
off. Having to
charge it for
hours before every use was a royal
pain in the lens cap.
When I looked into this, other buyers had the same problem, and a firmware update was apparently the answer. I eventually found and downloaded the firmware. The update resolved that issue, but it was a lot of
extra work when it really should have
worked properly in the first place.
As always, it comes down to “caveat
emptor”– buyer beware – particularly
with more significant purchases.
Bringing the felines back in line
Anyway, because of the relatively
low price of these training mats, and
with a lack of other ideas, we ended
up buying two small pet training mats
from AliExpress.
When they arrived a few weeks
later, the hazards of online shopping
were once again apparent. While the
mats were pretty much as advertised,
their construction is what one would
expect from such a cheap product.
Only one of them arrived in working
condition.
The mats are powered by three AA
cells; I hope they do not chew through
them too quickly, as that could get
expensive. If push comes to shove,
I’ll modify them to run on one of the
dozens of spare plugpack power supplies I have taking up drawer space
in my workshop. But before fretting
about that too much, I needed to fix
the broken one.
The mat’s controller is a sausageshaped plastic housing with a flattened
bottom that sits along one short edge
of the rectangular mat. It has a threecell battery holder with a removable
lid, and a single button on the top to
switch the power on and off when held
down. Short presses cycle through the
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman
column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
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Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 71
three shock settings: low, medium and
mad scientist. This is indicated by
three small LEDs.
There is also a built-in piezo buzzer
that chirps when the button is pressed
and quickly sounds multiple times if
the sensor pad detects anything. The
pad resembles a large, flexible-plastic
thin-film PCB with closely-interlocking printed silver tracks.
Briefly bridging the tracks results in
a warning alarm, but no shock; if contact is maintained for more than a few
seconds, a shock is delivered through
the tracks at the level selected. I’m too
chicken to put my hand on it, but I did
bridge the tracks with a short length of
hook-up wire and there was a frankly
unnerving amount of crackling and
popping at the connections, even on
the lowest setting.
There also appeared to be an undocumented feature; a vibration sensor
in the controller triggers the warning
beeps (but not the shock) when movement is detected. Even lightly bumping the bench sets it off.
the bottom of the controller. The two
moulded halves then came apart. The
electronics look surprisingly comprehensive and well-made, with a host of
SMDs and a couple of those blob-style
COB (chip-on-board) ICs on the board.
Cloth insulating tape covered some
of the components on the ‘hot’ end of
the board, and initially, I left that in
place. The circuitry was more complex
than I expected to find, and with PCB
component soldering looking good,
my expectations of an easy fix might
have been misplaced.
I found that the two HV output connections between the mat and the PCB
were just stripped-bare hook-up wires,
flattened out at the ends and clamped
onto ‘terminals’ on the mat between
the two halves of the case. A screw
through the centre of each terminal
ensured a solid
connection.
I don’t consider this to be a particularly elegant solution, but it’s probably
effective as long as the contacts are not
disturbed too many times by repeated
disassembly.
I wasn’t sure how rugged the sensor
tracks were. They appear to be made
from conductive silver paint, screenprinted onto the clear plastic mat;
scratching through a track at any point
would break its continuity. While one
of the PCB wire-to-pad connections
might have been where things had
failed, my gut feeling was that while
basic, the contacts should be OK.
To take the PCB out, I had to remove
a couple of small hold-down screws.
I also needed to release the positive battery terminal, which clips
Fixing the obvious fault
Disassembly of the faulty mat was
easy. Thankfully, there were no dumb
anti-tamper fasteners; just eight small,
cross-head PK screws to remove from
72
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siliconchip.com.au
into a moulding in the top half of the
controller and has a metal tongue that
extends down into the PCB cavity below, where it attaches to a solder pad
on the ‘input’ end of the board.
After removing the PCB screws, I
turned the unit over to see how that
positive battery terminal should be removed, and the PCB fell out onto the
workbench. I was reasonably sure the
battery terminal should be soldered in,
but a look under the magnifier revealed
no solder on it at all. There was a corresponding blob of solder on the PCB
though, with the shape of the tongue
embedded in it.
It looked like it had been pushed
into hot solder but had never been
physically connected.
Thinking that it might be designed
as a push-fit, for ease of assembly,
I opened the other working mat to
check. That mat’s positive terminal
was properly soldered in. I sat the
PCB back in the dead one, cleaned
the blobbed solder from the pad and
tinned and re-soldered the tongue. A
quick (and very careful!) check with
batteries fitted showed this resolved
the problem.
Reassembly was just as easy, though
I took care around those fragile-looking contacts. How the mat passed QA
checks (if any) is anyone’s guess, but
it’s a good example of why buying
online can be problematic. Someone
who isn’t afflicted with the Serviceman’s Curse would have probably just
binned the mat and taken the hit.
You’ll be pleased to know the cats
have come to no harm but very quickly
learned not to walk on the bench. They
now run off in every direction at the
mere sound of those warning beeps!
Hot water system repair
A. K., of Armidale, NSW, had a solar hot water system installed in 2010.
It worked well for years but recently
went on the fritz and he had to fix it...
Periodically, I check the various
temperature readings on the Solastat
controller, more out of interest than
any other reason. One sweltering day
last summer, I noticed that the solar
hot water controller was displaying
the fault code “SSd” instead of the
roof sensor temperature.
I checked the manual and “SSd”
stands for “Smart Shut Down”, where
the system idles in case of a shorted or
open sensor or cable wire. This fault
can also be displayed when the temsiliconchip.com.au
The Solastat temperature sensor, shown above, was repaired by replacing a
single NTC thermistor within it.
perature sensor is outside the specified
temperature range of -40°C to +150°C.
Upon further inspection, I found the
roof sensor or cable was open circuit.
Luckily for me, it was late afternoon
so the corrugated iron roof had time to
cool down from its peak temperature
on that 33°C day.
I went up onto the roof to remove the
sensor from its housing and noticed
that very little sealing compound had
been used. I decided to cut the sensor
from the cable, leaving 10mm exiting
the sensor. I probed these wire stubs
with my multimeter and found that
the sensor was open circuit.
The temperature sensor was potted
in a small steel case. I picked away at
the filling until I reached the sensor, a
small beaded glass device with no visible markings. The user’s manual didn’t
give any information as to its type.
I went onto the web and fortunately, Senztek (makers of Solastat controllers) have various manuals available for download from the website. I
found an installation guide with a table of NTC sensor resistance readings
at various temperatures. It specified a
value of 10kW at 25°C.
Further web searches revealed an
Australian site selling replacement
10m cable with roof sensor to suit
Solatstat controllers, including free
thermal paste and joiners. Tempting!
But fortunately, I already had some
10kW NTC thermistors which followed
the temperature curve of the original
sensor quite closely. The next day, I
removed all the filling from the old
sensor housing and replaced it with
my new NTC thermistor. I used hightemperature epoxy putty to hold it in
place and then re-soldered the sensor
to the controller cable, adding two layers of heatshrink tubing for weatherproofing.
Where the sensor cable exited the
corrugated iron roof was utterly devoid
of any sealant and as it was another
hot day, I decided to fix that later, in
the cool of the evening. So I dropped
down to my local electrical distributor
and purchased a cable gland.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Back on the roof that evening, I Installed the cable gland in the roof,
through which the sensor cable now
ran. I smothered the sensor’s metal
case with silicone-based thermal paste
and then slid the refurbished sensor
unit into place. Finally, I used some
neutral cure silicone sealant to secure
the unit into the solar heater housing
and prevent moisture ingress.
It has been nine months now since
the repair and my new sensor has not
missed a beat. The replacement NTC
thermistor sensor I used cost me $3
while a replacement cable with sensor would have cost $65 and that’s not
including labour. I figure it was a job
well done.
Yamaha CR-1020 receiver repair/
restoration
R. A., of Melbourne, Vic, decided to
restore a retro amplifier to its former
glory by fixing a few small faults which
had developed over its many years of
use. This is how he did it…
The Yamaha CR-1020 is a chunky
receiver from the late 70s. It’s powerful for its day at 80W per channel with 0.05% THD, both channels
driven. It incorporates an excellent
FM tuner. It originally cost $895, at
a time when a base Holden HZ sedan
started at $2150.
I snapped up this mint-condition
receiver in 2014 for $400. It has given
good service ever since. These now
sell in the USA for well over $1,000,
which prompted me to get to work
fixing mine.
It had a few minor niggles: none of
the lamps behind the fascia worked
and the back panel switch that couples the preamp/tuner to the power
amplifiers was scratchy. Working the
switch a few times helped, but I prefer
a permanent cure. Its timber case was
also damaged in transit, on a lower
front corner.
Opening it up, I found all five fascia lamps open-circuit. These “grain
of wheat” lamps are nominally
12V/60mA. Four are located behind
the three meters, connected in series/
October 2019 73
parallel and powered from a 19.23V
DC rail. The fifth is mounted on the
tuning dial pointer and runs from a
9.68V supply.
The reduced rail voltages were intended to prolong the life of the lamps.
The subtle glow also imparts an air of
sophistication to the unit.
Googling revealed that it is common
for these lamps to all fail, and that
plenty of replacements are available,
both LEDs and incandescent.
Oddly, all four lamps in a series-parallel circuit can fail; if one goes opencircuit, you would expect its parallel
lamp to then fail, disconnecting the
other two from the supply. But somehow, this does not happen.
I ordered some replacement incandescent lamps and then checked
the supply voltages. The 19.23V rail
(shown as 19.6V elsewhere in the circuit diagram), which also drives the
speaker protection relay, measured
just 13.5V.
I suspected a dud filter capacitor. My
DSO showed significant ripple on this
rail. Clipping two 100µF caps across
it drove the reading up to 17.5V (with
a low mains voltage of 227V), while a
2200µF cap increased it to 19.2V. So I
was pretty sure that the original filter
capacitor had failed.
While doing this testing, I also noticed that the speaker relay was pulling
in with a very soft click, but with the
larger capacitor added, the click was
restored to its normal, strong sound.
The replacement lamps arrived and
fitting the new meter lamps was fairly
straightforward. But the dial lamp was
more tricky. It uses a Heath Robinson
arrangement of articulated nylon arms
which keep the wiring from the dial
lamp out of the way as the pointer
tracks across the dial.
I undid the two Philips-head screws
that held the sliding assembly together,
gently pulled it half way open without
disturbing the dial cord, pulled out the
old lamp, inserted the new one and
put everything back together.
With a temporary capacitor in place
in the power supply, I powered the
unit up. The four meter lamps looked
good, but the dial lamp only glowed
dimly. It was only getting 4.3V due to
the higher current rating of the new
lamps (12V/70mA).
The dial lamp has a 180W dropping
resistor in series, while the four meter
lamps are fed from a low-impedance
source. I found that adding a 560W 1W
resistor across the 180W resistor gave
about 10V across the dial lamp and an
acceptable level of brightness.
I then turned my attention to the
low 19.23V/19.6V rail. There is an apparent oddity in the circuit diagram,
The internals of the Yamaha CR-1020 amplifier, with the power supply circuit diagram shown mispelled above. You can
find more details on this amp at http://www.mcqart.com/cr1020/ and http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/cr-1020-om.pdf
74
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
in that this rail feeds into diode D1,
and you get 20.8V at its cathode. How
does this work?
It’s because there is so much ripple
on the 19.6V rail that its average voltage is much lower than its peak voltage. A 1000µF capacitor at D1’s cathode means that the voltage on that
side is much smoother and closer to
the peak voltage.
This was done on purpose, so that
the speaker protection relay drops out
fast when mains power is removed.
This avoids nasty speaker thumps as
the amplifier rails decay after switchoff. Diode D1 isolates the larger cap
from the 220µF unit and stops it from
prolonging the relay holding time.
I think that the high ripple current
the 220µF capacitor is subjected to by
this arrangement is the reason it failed.
So I replaced it with a more robust
330µF/50V unit.
Accessing the underside of the relevant PCB would have been a major
undertaking, so I removed the dud
capacitor and soldered the new one
across the wire-wrap stakes which
connect to the supply rail.
Next, I decided to fix the coupler
switch. Access to it proved basically
impossible, so I simply gave it a good
spray with isopropyl alcohol, which
appeared to do the job.
I fired the amp back up, and it all
worked as expected. With 237V AC
mains, the output of the diode bridge
was 19.0V DC, which is about right (the
original specs were for 240V mains).
The speaker relay pulled in firmly after
its three-second delay, with its subsequent release appearing to be simultaneous with mains power switch-off,
and no thumps were heard from the
speakers.
siliconchip.com.au
I then checked the quiescent current in the power amplifiers. Working
carefully, as a slipped prod can cause
mayhem, I compared the test point
voltages against the specification of
10mV±1mV. Both channels rose to
about 14mV, so I carefully adjusted
the trimpots to get 10.0mV.
With everything working well, I
turned my attention to repairing the
damaged veneered plywood sleeve. I
dripped water onto it over more than a
week, to get it to swell back out, then I
sanded it and applied ‘plastic wood’.
More sanding, then the application
of a dark stain and finally coats of Gilly’s dark restoring polish produced a
remarkably good result, as seen in the
photo of the restored unit below.
The quality and labour that went
into this receiver is a tribute to its
makers. The complicated electronics
(with 109 transistors) has worked well
for over 40 years, indicating a great design and execution.
The cadmium-plated chassis still
gleams like new. The newly-polished
timber sleeve still looks great, and the
sound is still excellent.
Mitsubishi Lancer ABS pump
motor repair
R. H., of North Sydney, NSW had
a frustrating experience where a professional repaired the ABS (anti-skid
brake) unit from his car twice, and it
quickly failed again both times. He
had to open it up to fix it properly
himself…
On taking my Lancer for a service,
the mechanic advised me that the ABS
light was on and a scan revealed error
code 116 (low voltage at the hydraulic
pump). A better description might be
“open circuit hydraulic pump motor”.
Australia’s electronics magazine
A new ABS unit would cost over
$3000 plus fitting. I then found out
about a business which fixed ABS
units. All I had to do was take the unit
out and then for $350, they would service it. After which, I had to re-install
it and bleed the brakes. All went well
after re-installation, with no ABS light
showing.
The trouble was, after about five
months, the light switched on again.
As the unit was still under warranty, I went through the same process
again. But after re-installing it, the
ABS light stayed on. A scan showed
the same error code 116, and it could
not be cleared, so I gave up for the
time being.
Shortly after that, I found a video
on YouTube showing how to fix this
ABS unit. It appears that quite a few
ABS units in various vehicles have the
same problem.
This time, I decided to do the whole
job myself. So out comes the ABS unit
once again, and following the steps
on YouTube, I managed to isolate the
motor from the valve body. I then put
an ohmmeter across the motor’s terminals and it showed an open-circuit
reading.
On taking the motor’s case off, I
found a brush hung up in its cage. It
had to be gently massaged with fine
sandpaper to give clearance between
the brush and cage, so that it could
move up and down easily. I gave the
same treatment to the other brush.
On re-assembling the motor and
applying power, the motor hummed
away – good! Next, I had to re-assemble
and re-install the ABS unit, then bleed
the brakes. The ABS light remained off;
wonderful! It has remained this way
for a couple of years now, touch wood.
I don’t understand how this problem
arises. Was the retaining spring behind
the brush too weak to keep it seated
on the commutator? What caused the
brush to lift off the commutator in the
first place?
Editor’s note: perhaps the car hit a
big pothole which lifted it off briefly,
and it got stuck.
One person on a web forum reported
that he hit his ABS unit with a hammer, with a block of wood between
the hammer and the valve body. It
sounds a bit Heath Robinson but in
hindsight, having observed the problem firsthand, it may just work; the
impact could re-seat the brush back
onto the commutator.
SC
October 2019 75
Home Automation
Home Automation has been the “next big thing” for quite a while now. But –
with not too many exceptions – it remains the next big thing! Sure, there are
people who have adopted Home Automation to some degree. And there are
quite a few Home Automation specialist businesses set up to drag customers
into the 21st century (kicking and screaming, we ask?). Well, with the new
“Inventa” Home Automation Maker Plates from Altronics, that just might be
about to take that giant leap forward for all mankind!
L
et’s face it: despite all of its
promise, Home Automation
hasn’t exactly set the world
on fire – yet! Yes, we’ve all heard of
the family whose house “does everything”, whether they’re home or not,
but that’s the exception.
Despite the obvious advantages of
returning home to a beautifully cool
(or warm) house, with the dinner in
the oven ready to serve, the security
system going on standby after protecting the home all day . . . you get the
picture, we’re sure.
We believe that a major, perhaps the
major reason for Home Automation’s
lack of penetration is that unless you
are building a new home and can accommodate the extra cabling, extra
sensors and control circuitry, it’s all
just too hard for the average person
to get their mind around, let alone
actually do.
We’re also pretty sure that there
would be a fair number of people,
especially hobbyists and even more
especially SILICON CHIP readers, who
would like to have a go at Home Automation – if only it could be made
simpler.
Enter Altronics . . .
and their “Inventa” range
professionals will even want to use
them! In addition to looking good,
they’re quite powerful too.
The two we’re describing in this
article (of the three they offer) are
designed to fit into a standard Australian electrical wallplate, as might
be used for a power outlet or light
switch.
They are the K9660 Inventa 2.8in
TFT Touchscreen Maker Plate and
the K9655 Inventa 16x2 LCD Shield
Maker Plate.
Both come with a pair of wallplate
covers (two different styles) and standard mounting hardware. They also
have headers at the back of the wallplate which can accept standard Arduino shields.
Incidentally, if all this is new to you,
‘shield’ is Arduino terminology for an
add-on board with a specific pinout
What to use them for?
The most obvious use for these Maker Plates is to create a user interface for
a home automation system, allowing
information to be displayed on their
screens as well as accepting input via
either the keypad or touch panel.
As mentioned above, “Home automation” refers to systems that control
home lighting, blinds and shutters, air
conditioning/ventilation appliances
and so on – anything electrical that’s
found in the home.
Features & Specifications
Model:
TFT Touchscreen
Maker Plate (K9660)
LCD Shield
Maker Plate (K9655)
User Interface:
2.8in colour LCD
touchscreen
16x2 character LCD
with 9-key keypad
Processor:
SAM3X8E
(ARM Cortex M3)
ATmega328P
Due
Duemilanove
Arduino compatibility:
The Inventa series is a range of
Arduino-compatible “Maker Plates”
which make an easy way of adding a
slick-looking user interface to a DIY
home automation project. They have
been designed and produced in Australia by Altronics.
We reckon they look so good that
that allows it to directly piggy-back
onto a main controller board, or even
another shield underneath it.
It’s actually the Arduino which does
all the sensing, controlling and actuating and communicating –these Maker
Plates are the information “interface”
between the Arduino and you!
Flash memory:
512kB
RAM:
30kB
(2kB reserved for bootloader)
96kB
2kB
32-bit, 84MHz
8-bit, 16MHz
I/O pin voltage:
3.3V
5V
Other features:
Switchmode DC regulator
Buzzer, two relays
Processor speed:
Review/Tutorial by Tim Blythman
76
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Made Easy(ish!)
(Left): The Inventa Touchscreen
Maker Plate (K9660) is supplied
mostly pre-assembled. The pre-loaded
demo sketch for the TFT Touchscreen
Maker Plate shows a splash screen
with the Altronics logo. Such
graphics are well suited to the colour
screen and the powerful SAM3X8E
microcontroller, which has 512kB of
flash memory, useful for storing icons
and other graphics.
(Right): Conversely, the Inventa
LCD Shield Maker Plate (K9655)
must be assembled. It is based on an
ATmega328P processor and has a 16x2
display with nine pushbuttons for user
control (yes, believe us – there are
nine!). The interface for the LCD Shield
Maker Plate reminds us of a home
security alarm panel, and it would be
well suited to such a role. The demo
sketch shows off most of the hardware
features that are built into the board.
(See the panel at the end of this article, Just what does “Home Automation” mean?).
The use of standard wallplate hardware means installing them on a wall or
cabinet is very easy. These Maker Plates
could also be used to add a user interface panel to an equipment enclosure,
without having to worry about custom
bezels and mounting.
They are also both fully-fledged microcontroller systems; both are fully
compatible with the Arduino IDE (integrated development environment), and
both are capable of being programmed
to perform a variety of tasks.
Many standard shield-format boards
can be plugged directly into the PCB
to add extra functions. This could be
as simple as putting some relays on
a shield breakout board to automate
light switching (but you’d need to be
very careful to ensure safe isolation
and spacing if those relays are going
to switch mains!).
Or you could plug in a digital radio
transmitter, Bluetooth or WiFi shield
to communicate with and interface to
remote devices. That would be safer as
it would allow you to keep full mains
isolation.
siliconchip.com.au
An Ethernet shield which supports
power-over-Ethernet (PoE) would also
be a useful addition, providing a connection into a LAN as well as power.
We’ll look at the K9660 first.
It also has a SAM3X8E 32-bit microcontroller, which can run at up to
84MHz. That makes it substantially
more potent than your typical Arduino.
It’s compatible with the Arduino Due.
Kit #1: Touchscreen
Maker Plate (K9660)
Circuit description
While pitched as a kit, this Maker
Plate does not require much assembly.
In fact, by merely connecting the LCD
to the main PCB, you’re already in a
position to load and test the supplied
demonstration code.
The reason that the TFT Touchscreen
Maker Plate does not require much assembly is that most of the components
are SMDs and they come pre-soldered.
There are a handful of through-hole
parts that need to be fitted, but the bulk
of the assembly is actually fitting the
mechanical parts of the plate together.
There are several photos, circuit diagrams and overlays provided in the kit
to assist construction, but in this article,
we’ll describe what you need to know
to get it up and running.
The K9660 has a 2.8in touchscreen
LCD (very similar to the 2.8in LCDs that
we use on our Micromite projects) with
an ILI9341 controller.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The circuit of the K9660 main board
is shown overleaf in Fig.1. You will
notice that it’s dominated by the 144pin microcontroller (IC1) and the 2.8inch LCD touchscreen, which attaches
via a 50-pin ‘flat flexible’ cable. PWM
backlighting control is enabled by NPN
transistor Q1.
This micro has an internal USB interface, and this is wired up to CON2,
a micro-USB (Type B) socket. In addition to two 39Ω impedance-matching
resistors for the D- and D+ lines, there
are three varistors to protect the micro
from static electricity, on the D-, D+
and USBID lines (V1-V3).
Power is fed in either via USB socket
CON2 (through diode D1 and jumper
JP1) or via terminal block CON3 and
reverse polarity protection diode D4.
The 5V rail powers the touchscreen
backlight and also goes to the 5V pin
on the shield connector. 5V is also fed
to the 3.3V regulator, REG2, which
October 2019 77
D3 SS14
A
K
CON3
1
+
VIN
K
A
REG2
MC 33375ST-3.3
REG1 R-78E5.0-0.5
D4 SS14
+5V
OUT
IN
1
2
–
2
47 F
10 F
GND
35V
10V
10 F
10V
IN
OUT
+3.3V
3
ON
/OFF GND
10 F
10V
4
JP1
0
D1
SS14
A
D2
SS14
100nF
K
L3 25 H
56
5x100nF
61
10V
0.5A
10
45
10 F
100nF
PS1
104
124
34
AREF
75
CON2
USB MICRO-B
39
1
2
3
X
4
38
39
V1
5V
6.8k
IOREF
43
37
39
22pF
V2
5V
SHLD B
42
40
50
100k
53
13
RST
14
3.3V
129
5V
ERASE
V3
5V
GND
GND
10 F 100nF
100nF
A
K
VIN
16
130
JP3
NRST
69
47
78
SHLD A
79
A0
80
A1
81
A2
82
A3
83
A4
49
A5
48
35
RST
S1
100nF
X1 12MHz
22pF 22pF
36
100nF
A
10V
LED1
57
VDD
IN
41
VDD
UTMI
VDDOUT
100nF
100
10 F
10V
73
VDDANA
100nF
L1 25 H
100nF
L2 25 H
100nF
100nF
+3.3V
USB IN
11
VDD
IO
62
VDD
IO
105
VDD
IO
125
VDD
IO
52
VDD
BU
1
PB26
3
PA10
4
PA11
5
PA12
6
PA13
7
PA14
8
PA15
23
PA0
24
PA1
55
PC1
108
PA25/MISO
109
PA26/MOSI
64
PC6
110
PA27
63
PC5
VDDCORE
VDDCORE
VDDCORE
VDDCORE
VDDCORE
VDDPLL
ADVREF
VBUS
DHSDM
DFSDM
DHSDP
DFSDP
VBG
IC1
ATSAM3X8EA-AU
SHDN
FWUP
PC7
PD0
PC8
(MANY UNUSED PINS
NOT SHOWN)
PD1
PB11
PA18
PA17
PD3
PB27
PC0
PD8
NRST
PD7
NRSTB
PA28
PA16
PC21
PA24
PC22
PA23
PC4
PA22
PC23
PA6
PC24
PA4
PC25
XOUT32
PC26
XIN32
PC27
XOUT
PA25
PA9
XIN
JTAGSEL
46
TST
51
GND
12
GND
58
GND
106
GND
126
GND
PLL
GND
UTMI
GND
BU
GND
ANA
33
44
54
74
PA8
K
65
66
70
9
68
21
20
111
132
133
116
134
135
136
137
139
144
2
27
1k
SC
20 1 9
78
ALTRONICS K9660 ARDUINO (ARM) TOUCHSCREEN WALLPLATE
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
2.8-INCH TOUCHSCREEN LCD PANEL WITH LED BACKLIGHTING, ILI9341 CONTROLLER
+5V
4x
15
R-78E 5.0-0.5
IN
OUT
GND
+3.3V
TAB (GND)
Y+
X–
Y–
GND
GND
GND
IN
OUT
ON/OFF
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43 33
44
45 35
46
47 37
48
49 39
50
1
2
LEDK
LEDA1
LEDA2
LEDA3
LEDA4
IM0
IM1
IM2
IM3
RESET
VSYNC
HSYNC
DOTCLK
DE
DB17
DB16
DB15
DB14
DB13
DB12
DB11
DB10
DB9
DB8
DB7
DB6
DB5
DB4
DB3
DB2
DB1
DB0
SDO
SDI
RD
WR
RS
CS
TE
VCC
VCC
VCC
GND
X+
MC33375
SS14
K
A
+3.3V
470
Q1
BC817 C
DNP
B
E
NRST
1
2
3
4
5
6
BC817
C
+5V
B
MISO
E
LED
CATHODE
BAND
MOSI
K
A
SHLD D
SCL1
SDA1
AREF
AREF
GND
PWM13
PWM12
PWM11
PWM10
PWM9
PWM8
SHLD C
PWM7
PWM6
PWM5
PWM4
PWM3
PWM2
TX
RX
1
2
3
4
5
SERIAL
CON8
Fig.1: the Altronics Touchscreen Maker Plate is based around a 32-bit ARM Cortex processor (IC1) and a 2.8-inch
touchscreen which connects via a 50-pin flat flex cable. Most of the remaining circuitry is the power supply and
bypassing for IC1, components related to the USB interface plus a set of five standard Arduino R3 headers for
attaching shields. This design is software-compatible with the Arduino Due.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 79
100nF
22pF
R-78E5.0-0.5
TX
RX
47 F
D4
SS14
P3
0
SCL1
SDA1
AREF
GND
PWM12
PWM13
PWM11
PWM10
PWM9
PWM8
PWM7
PWM6
PWM5
PWM4
PWM3
PWM2
RX
TX
Q1 DNP
C12
10 F
REG2
15
10 F
22pF 10 F
100nF
X1
10 F
12MHz
15
JP3
1k
22pF
22pF
39
100nF
L3
VIN GND
ERASE
100nF 6.8k 100k
100nF
100nF
100nF
39
L1
100nF
100nF
100nF
100nF 100nF
D3
15
15
100nF
RESET
37
1
CABLE
TO LCD
10 F
+
IC1
SAM3X8EA-AU
10 F
D1
REG1
73
K9660
D2
JP1
100nF 100nF
S1
1
PS1
V1
109
6
GND
V2
L2
www.altronics.com.au
P8
CON2
10 F
NC
RST
IOREF
5V
3V3
GND
VIN
GND
A0
A3
A1
A2
A4
A5
V3
100
A
LED1
470
Fig.2: the Touchscreen Maker Plate board uses mostly surfacemounting parts due to the limited space, all of which come presoldered. You only need to fit the connectors, switchmode regulator
module (REG1), reset pushbutton (S1), jumpers and terminal block.
The whole thing fits neatly in a standard wallplate.
provides the logic supply for the
touchscreen as well as running microcontroller IC1. It’s also fed to the
IOREF and 3.3V pins on the shield
headers.
Two of the micro’s supply pins have
LC low-pass filters to reduce noise, specifically pin 73 (the analog supply) and
pin 41 (powering the USB transceiver).
A third LC filter from the VDDOUT pin (pin 56) to VDDPLL (pin 34)
smooths the internally generated supply voltage for the chip’s phase-locked
loop, which derives its 84MHz master
clock from the 12MHz crystal oscillator based around X1.
Construction
Fig.2 shows the PCB overlay diagram
for this project. As mentioned earlier,
most of the parts come already soldered
to the board. All you really need to add
is regulator REG1, the headers, jumpers, screw terminals and reset pushbutton (S1).
The manual for this board explains
that the standard Arduino header spacing is too wide to allow the Maker Plate
to fit into a standard wall box, so two
sets of headers are provided. The first
is at the standard shield spacing, the
second at a narrower spacing.
You can use the standard headers
for prototyping but you would need
to wire up the shield using jumper
leads, or make an adaptor so that it
can remain attached when the unit is
mounted on the wall.
We suggest that you fit both sets of
headers, as a mounted LCD will need
to be removed to allow access for sol80
Silicon Chip
dering. Since the LCD is fixed with
double-sided tape, it could be difficult
to remove.
It’s best to use a spare shield as a jig
to ensure that the shield headers are
square and straight. Fitting the shield
also gives you a chance to see what the
clearances are like around the board.
It’s very tight, with a typical shield only
barely fitting lengthwise between the
mounting screw-holes in the wallplate.
A typical shield will also cover the
reset pushbutton, although it is not entirely inaccessible. Many shields have
their own reset buttons for this reason.
An attached shield would also foul
the DC input screw terminals. As such,
we elected not to fit the screw terminals. You can solder wires to its pads
instead. Alternatively, you could use
a lower-profile screw terminal.
After fitting the through-hole components, trim their pins to be as short
as possible. This is necessary as the
LCD is mounted on the back of the PCB
with double-sided tape, and we need
to avoid shorting out any pins on the
LCD’s metal shell.
Fitting the LCD is a bit fiddly, so
we recommend test-fitting it without
any tape to get a feel for how it all
comes together. Once we were happy,
we placed the double-sided tape over
any exposed pins to ensure they were
covered as much as possible and attached the LCD.
There is some wiggle room in the
PCB’s mounting holes, allowing the LCD
to be centred in the bezel. Naturally, it
helps to mount the LCD squarely and
correctly within the marked outline.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The USB socket is accessed through
a slot in the side of the wallplate; the
wallplate will only attach to the PCB
with one orientation because of this.
We found that the thickness of the
wallplate prevented some USB cables from plugging in completely, but
the USB cable included with the kit
worked fine.
The slot for the USB socket is covered by the decorative facia cover that
is provided, so this will need to be removed to access the USB port (eg, for
programming). It is possible to notch
out the wallplate further if regular access is needed to the USB port.
All in all, the final product is quite
tidy, but necessarily cramped. In just
about all cases, a cavity in the wall or
spacer block will be needed, as many of
the components and headers protrude
past the back of the mounting plane.
Software
The kit comes pre-loaded with a
demonstration sketch programmed
into the firmware, but you will need
the Arduino IDE (integrated development environment) to make it do anything beyond this.
The IDE is free and can be downloaded from siliconchip.com.au/link/
aatq
We recommend using a recent version, especially as versions after 1.6.4
include support for the automatic installation of add-on boards and libraries. We used version 1.8.5.
The Due board profile (compatible
with this micro) is not installed by default, so after installing the IDE, you
siliconchip.com.au
will need to use the Board Manager
utility to do this. Select the Tools ->
Board -> Board Manager menu option,
and search for “Due”. Fig.3 shows how
the result should look.
Click the Due entry and then click
“Install”. The install process will take a
few moments as the toolchain components (compiler etc) are installed, after
which two new entries will appear in
the Tools -> Board menu.
They are “Arduino Due (Programming Port)” and “Arduino Due (Native USB Port)”.
How do you power them?
Powering these Touchscreen Plates
on the workbench is one thing but more
than once, the question arose, “how do
you power them when they’re mounted
in/on a wall?”
It’s a fair enough question, too.
But we figured that in the vast majority of circumstances, the devices being
controlled or linked to would have the appropriate power supply available – 3.3V
or 5V DC as the case may be . . and it
Fig.3: this shows the results of searching for “Due” in the Arduino IDE Boards
manager. You need to install this Boards package to be able to program the
SAM3X8E microcontroller on the Touchscreen Maker Plate board. Once you’ve
found it, simply click on the Boards package and then click the “Install” button
(not present here because we’ve already installed it).
Fig.4: note the search term we’ve entered in the box at upper-right. The first result
is one of the libraries required to compile the demo code for the Touchscreen Maker
Plate. Like with the Boards files, click on the entry once located and then click the
“Install” button.
Fig.5: the second of three libraries you need to compile and upload the demo code.
The third one must be downloaded separately and installed from the .ZIP file (see
text for details).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
should be a simple matter to tap off the
power required.
Power requirements for the Plates
themselves are very modest.
In the unlikely event that this was not
possible, it may be necessary to arrange
an external supply (eg, a plugpack).
Working with an existing building might
be problematic, but installing them in a
new building should not cause significant dramas.
While official Due boards have two
USB sockets corresponding to these
two entries, the Touchscreen Maker
Plate only has the native USB port.
This option should be selected to allow programming to occur. The correct serial port needs to be selected too
(in Windows, check Device Manager).
The programming port is presumably omitted due to space constraints.
The native USB port can be used
for programming, but is about 30%
slower.
The official Arduino advice is that
the programming port is preferred, not
just for speed, but because it’s possible for a bug in the loaded sketch to
make the native port unavailable, thus
leaving you with no easy way to reprogram the chip.
Also note that the native port corresponds to the “SerialUSB” object,
while the programming port corresponds to the “Serial” object, meaning that existing sketches that use the
“Serial” object may need to be modified to communicate with a USB host
with this board.
To compile the example sketch
(downloadable from siliconchip.com.
au/link/aato), you need three extra
software libraries. Two of these can
be installed by the Library Manager
but the third needs to be installed
manually.
The Library Manager can be found
under the Sketch -> Include Library ->
Manage Libraries menu. The required
libraries can be found in this dialog,
as shown in Figs.4 & 5. Like the Board
Manager, once you’ve found the library, simply click on it and then click
the install button.
You can download a ZIP of the third
required library from: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aatp
Once you have the file, use the
Sketch → Include Library → Add
.ZIP library menu item, then with the
October 2019 81
file dialog box opens, browse to the
downloaded file and click “Open”. If
all is well, you should see a message
that the library was installed correctly.
The example sketch can now be compiled and uploaded to the board. Note
that the “AltImg.h” file needs to be in
the same folder as the sketch file. Uploading this sketch takes around two
minutes. Most of the sketch size (and
upload time) is due to the embedded
graphics.
The demo sketch shows a splash
screen, followed by a set of text instructions which explain the calibration process which follows. After calibration, a
simple ‘paint’ type program allows the
touch panel and display to be tested.
Hardware
Arduino pin PWM6 (physical pin
135) of the Due controller is used to
control the touchscreen backlight. It
can be switched on and off or dimmed.
This is the only pin on the shield headers which is used for other purposes.
While the Arduino version of the Due
has 54 I/O pins, all of its PWM pins are
already shared with the shield headers,
so this was unavoidable.
Note that as the SAM3X8E microcontroller runs from 3.3V, you may find
that some shields which are designed
expecting a 5V microcontroller will not
function properly with it.
Further software development
The TFT display library includes
some more code examples. But note
that those which incorporate touch
sensing use a different touch library
than the one which Altronics recommends, so they may need to be modified.
For the others, all you need to do to
get them to work is to find their control
pin definitions and change them to suit
the pinout on this board, ie:
#define TFT_RST 33
#define TFT_DC 37
#define TFT_CS 38
You may also need to add some commands to the setup() function to turn
the backlight on, like this:
pinMode(6,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(6,HIGH);
The examples we tried were quite
quick at updating the display, as the
library uses the SAM3X8E’s DMA peripheral to pass data to the screen efficiently.
82
Silicon Chip
The sample sketches by default do
not use the native USB port for outputting their debugging data. So you
should change references to the “Serial” object to read “SerialUSB” instead.
A ‘quick and dirty’ way to achieve this
is to add the following line near the top
of the sketch:
#define Serial SerialUSB
For developing your own programs,
we suggest using Altronics’ demonstration sketch as a starting point, along
with sample code from the TFT library.
Kit #2: LCD Shield Maker
Plate (K9655)
The second kit is the K9655 Inventa 16x2 LCD Shield Maker Plate. It is
based on an ATmega328P processor,
the same one used in the Uno, although
this particular design is more like the
Arduino Duemilanove in operation.
It also has a 16x2 character LCD for
display and a nine-button membrane
keypad for input.
While it might appear from the photos that there are only five buttons, the
remaining four buttons are unmarked.
Along with the five marked buttons,
they make up a 3x3 button grid.
The circuit for this kit is shown in
Fig.6. It uses an MCP23S17 I/O expander IC to interface the ATmega328P micro to the LCD, keypad, buzzer and relays. That means that most of the regular Arduino pins are still available for
use by shields.
The MCP23S17 is the SPI version of
the I2C-based MCP23017.
The circuitry at the bottom is similar
to that of an Arduino Uno board, with
the ATmega328P micro wired up to the
usual headers, clocked from a 16MHz
crystal and with a basic 5V power supply delivered by a 7805 linear regulator.
There’s also a 3.3V regulator in case a
connected shield needs to draw power
from that pin, but it doesn’t run anything else on the board.
I/O expander IC2 drives the 16x2 alphanumeric LCD module from seven
of its GPA pins, configured as digital
outputs. GPA6 (pin 27) drives the base
of NPN transistor Q1 which connects
the backlight cathode to ground, giving on/off control. Its anode is permanently connected to the +5V rail via a
200Ω current-limiting resistor.
Similarly, GPA7 drives the base of
NPN transistor Q3, and this controls
auxiliary SPDT relay RLY1, with its
three contacts wired to terminal block
Australia’s electronics magazine
CON7. So you can use it for whatever
purpose you desire.
The I/O expander GPB ports are used
to sense button presses on the keypad,
which is arranged in a 3x3 matrix,
and its six pins connect back to GPB2GPB7 via header CON2. GPB1 drives
the piezo buzzer directly while GPB0
controls another NPN transistor (Q4)
which in turn switches another relay,
RLY2, which has its contacts wired to
terminal block CON8, again for general
purpose use.
The I/O expander SPI bus is connected to the usual Arduino pins of D11-13.
Other devices can share this bus. Its CS
line connects to either Arduino pins D9
or D10, depending on the position of
JP3. This can be used to prevent conflicts with any shields used (assuming
they don’t use both D9 and D10).
NPN transistor Q2 is connected to
the SCK pin (D13) so that LED3 lights
up when there is activity on the SPI
bus. LED1 is connected across the 5V
supply, so it lights up when power is
applied.
The dotted red lines shown from the
INTA and INTB pins of IC2 back to D2
and D3 on the Arduino via jumpers
were not present on the version of the
kit we received, but will be added to future kits. With the jumpers fitted, these
will allow you to trigger an interrupt
routine on the microcontroller if a specific button on the keypad is pressed,
without having to actively ‘poll’ the
keypad periodically.
The board
Unlike the K9660 Touchscreen Maker Plate, this one does need to be assembled. But it’s virtually all throughhole components, and not that many
of them, so it isn’t a big job. The PCB
overlay diagram, Fig.7, shows the
board layout.
The bulk of the components mount
on the back of the plate. There is a
Fig.6 (opposite): the circuit for the
LCD Shield Maker Plate, which
is based around an ATmega328P
microcontroller, the same one used in
the popular Arduino Uno. I/O expander
IC2 is used to interface with the LCD
and keypad, so that most of IC1’s pins
are still available for other purposes,
including connecting to one or more
shields. IC2 also controls the piezo
buzzer and the coils of two small relays
which you can use for various purposes.
siliconchip.com.au
+5V
+5V
A
LED3
K
200
100nF
9
18
1k
C
Q2
BC337
Vdd
RST
GPA0
GPA1
1k
GPA2
B
GPA3
E
14
13
12
11
D10
GPA4
MISO
GPA5
MOSI
GPA6
SCK
GPA7
CS
IC2
MCP23S17
D9
20
JP3
19
17
16
15
GPB7
GPB6
INTA
GPB5
INTB
GPB 4
GPB3
GPB2
A2
A1
GPB1
A0
GPB0
Vss
15
2
4
21
22
6
23
24
Vdd
RS
BLA
16 x 2
LCD MODULE
EN
D7 D6 D5 D4 D3 D2 D1 D0
25
14 13 12 11 10 9
CONTRAST
GND BLK R/W
7
8
1
27
C
1k
28
B
8
E
7
3x3 KEYPAD
1
6
2
5
3
4
4
3
5
2
6
1
R1
R2
R3
7
+
PIEZO
SOUNDER
C1
K
A
LED1
1
B
Q4
BC337
B
E
E
BC 33 7
RST
C
1k
Q3
BC337
COM2
3
NO2
CON7
1
B
E
NC2
2
A
C
1k
1k
C3
CON8
D4
1N5819
A
MOSI
SCK
RLY1
C2
RLY2
K
D3
1N5819
K
+5V
+5V
MISO
Q1
BC337
CON2
+5V
SHLDE
ICSP
5
16
26
10
D3
D2
VR1
10k
3
NC1
2
C
COM1
3
NO1
SHLDD
D1
CON1 1N5819
K
1 A
+
VIN
2
–
SCL
REG1 7805
47 F
25V
GND
SDA
+5V
OUT
IN
100nF
AREF
100 F
16V
100nF
100nF
SHLDB
1
+5V
+5V
RESET
+5V
+5V
GND
23
24
GND
1 F
27
VIN
28
SHLDA
9
A0
A1
1M
X1
A2
A3
A4
16MHz
22pF
A5
A
20 1 9
K
LEDS
K
A
SCLK/PB5
RESET/PC6
MISO/PB4
ADC 0/PC 0
PB1
ADC 1/PC 1
PB0
22pF
LP2950
PD6
ADC4/PC4/SDA
PD5
ADC5/PC5/SCL
PD4
XTAL1/PB 6
PD3
RXD/PD0
GND
8
IN
14
Australia’s electronics magazine
RESET
D7
D6
D5
D4
5
D3
4
D2
3
TXD
2
RXD
2x
1k
D2
1N5819
10k
S1
SHLDC
6
+5V
OUT
D9
D8
15
GND
22
GND
D10
17
11
TXD/PD1
XTAL2/PB 7
D11
12
PD2
10
MOSI
18
13
PD7
ADC3/PC3
19
D13
D12
16
PB2
ALTRONICS 9-BUTTON WALLPLATE With LCD
siliconchip.com.au
SCK
MISO
IC1
ADC 2/PC 2 ATMEGA
26
3 2 8P
328P
25
GND
1N5819
7
Vcc
20
AVcc
MOSI/PB3
REG2
LP2950-3.3
OUT IN
+3.3V
+3.3V
SC
21
Aref
GND
K
D1
D0
CON4
1
GND
2
A
GND
3
+5V
4
100nF
RXI
5
TXO
6
DTR
FTDI
October 2019 83
Silicon Chip
1k
+
10k
200
S1
100nF
100nF
+
100nF
GND
DTR TX RX 5V
CTS
1k
B1
SHLDE
IC1 ATMEGA328P
9 JP2
22pF
1M
X1
22pF
NC1
NO1
NC2
1k
IC2 MCP23S17
CON2
1k
COM1
R3
LED3
Q2
VR1
COMMON
10
VIN
NO2
COMMON
LCD1
1k
1k
A0
A1
A2
A3
A4
A5
1k
RLY2
Q1
GND
IOREF
RST
3V3
5V
GND
GND
VIN
1 F
47F
LED1
REG2
100nF
D1
COIL
COIL
RLY1
COM2
100F
100nF
Q4
Q3
D4
D3
REG1
NC
84
Programming
connection
1k
NO
Jumper JP3 for IC2’s CS connection
is actually just three sets of closely
spaced pads. These are hard to get at
once the rest of the components have
been fitted, so at this point, you should
figure out which pin to use (see Altronics’ instructions for more details) and
bridge the two appropriate pads. We
used D9 as that is the one used in the
example code.
The next job is to fit the SMD IC.
Make sure its orientation is correct,
tack it down and then solder the pins.
Clean up any bridges with flux paste
and solder wick.
Then fit the remaining top-side
components, starting with the shorter
ones and working your way up to the
taller ones.
We used an Arduino shield that we
had lying around as a jig to ensure
that the shield headers were mounted
square and straight. Check that IC1,
the diodes and electrolytic capacitors
are orientated correctly, as per Fig.7.
Note the three resistors and one diode (D2) which need to be laid over to
avoid fouling the wallplate surround
later. REG1 and the electros also need
to be mounted flush with the board.
Make sure the component leads
around crystal X1’s mounting position
on the underside of the board have
been cut as short as possible, then solder X1 in place, ensuring enough space
between it and the component leads
that it won’t short. Adding some insulation under the crystal body is a good
idea; the Altronics instructions say to
use some of the supplied double-sided
tape in this role, so we did so.
Their instructions also note that
the pins for the LCD header are quite
ALTRONICS
K9655
INVENTA
NC
Assembly
close together, so make sure you
don’t bridge any of these during
soldering. If you do, use some
flux paste and solder wick (and
possibly also a solder sucker)
to fix it.
Before fitting the PCB into
the wallplate, we test-fitted the
LCD and membrane pad to see
that everything was working as
expected. The connections for
these parts are a little bit awkward, in that the sockets for both
are very close. Note that the LCD
connection is not keyed, so this
should be checked carefully
against the construction photos
to ensure you plug it in the right
way around.
Once the LCD is correctly
connected, apply power and
the demo software should start
up. You can then check that the
keypad buttons all work. Each
press on the keypad triggers
an action on the board, such as
a relay toggling or the buzzer
sounding.
NO
standard Arduino R3 set of headers,
including dedicated pins for I2C and
SPI. There is no USB/serial converter,
so serial communication and programming require a separate module. The
serial header pinout matches many
so-called ‘FTDI’ type USB-serial‑ converters, such as Altronics Cat Z6225.
It’s quite a packed board, so much
that the crystal oscillator for IC1 (an
ATmega328P) is mounted on the back
of the PCB. The only SMD part is IC2,
and it’s quite large, so not difficult to
solder.
There are screw terminals for DC
power in (up to 15V) and the two sets
of SPDT relay contacts (for low voltage
only – definitely not mains!).
SCL
SDA
AREF
GND
D13
D12
D11
D10
D9
D8
D7
D6
D5
D4
D3
D2
D1
D0
FTDI
D2
Fig.7: the LCD Shield Maker Plate comes as a
While Altronics Cat Z6225 bare PCB and a selection of parts. All the parts
FTDI USB to serial TTL adapt- but one are through-hole types, so assembly is
straightforward. CON2 is used to connect to
er module could be used to the nine-button matrix keypad while LCD1 is
program the LCD Shield Maker a flat flex cable connector for the 16x2 LCD.
Plate, we tried using a CP2102- The relays are not suitable for switching mains
based module instead, as we voltages as the tracks and pins are too close
stock these in the SILICON CHIP together, and too close to other components.
ONLINE SHOP (siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/7/3543). The required wiring no IDE, instead of the Uno. Otherwise,
you can treat this board like the Uno.
is shown in Fig.8.
It may be possible to change a
While the CP2102 uses 3.3V logic
levels, the ATmega328P can accept Duemilanove to the Uno by merely re3.3V digital signal levels even when placing the bootloader, which can be
running from a 5V supply. The 1kΩ done from the IDE, but you need an
series resistors on the wallplate board in-circuit serial programmer (‘ICSP’).
limit the current flowing into the se- We haven’t tried this, but in theory,
rial converter RX pin to a safe level, it should provide 1.5kB more of flash
even though the Arduino’s output pin programming space. It should also
speed up sketch uploads. However, we
swings up to +5V.
have heard reports that it may not work
Software
reliably, so we recommend caution.
There are no extra libraries needed
The Duemilanove processor is the
same ATmega328P as used in the to program the demo sketch into this
Arduino Uno. The main difference board (you can get it from siliconchip.
is that they use different bootloader com.au/link/aatr). Just make sure to
firmware. The bootloader is a small extract all the files in this package to
piece of software that runs every time a folder named “K9655DemoCode”.
the processor starts up, to allow new There are two extra files which prosketches to be sent from the Arduino vide functions to control the LCD, detect presses on the keypad and so on.
IDE to the chip.
The Duemilanove board profile is
This means that you need to select
the Duemilanove board in the Ardui- built into the Arduino IDE, so after
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
SHLD
SH
LDE
E
block will be needed, as several components protrude past
the back of the plate.
GND
GN
D
selecting this and the correct serial
port, we were able to compile and upload the demo sketch.
A good way to write your own code
for this board is to make a copy of the
demo code by using the File -> Save
As menu option. This will make a copy
of the K9655.cpp and K9655.h files as
well as the main sketch file.
As mentioned earlier, the MCP23S17
requires a dedicated CS (chip select)
pin, which can be set to either D9 or
D10 using the supplied solder jumper.
If your intended application requires
both of these, it may be possible to
solder a wire directly from the middle pad of the jumper to an alternative
pin, and modify the Altronics code to
use that pin instead.
100nFF
100n
FTDI
1k
DTR
DT
R TX RX 5V
These two Maker Plates fit
a lot into a small space. The
SAM3X8E processor on the
TFT Touchscreen Maker Plate
(K9660) is well-suited to the
producing colour graphics
for display on the LCD, with
a faster processor and more
RAM and flash memory than
most Arduinos. All these features make the TFT Touchscreen Maker Plate versatile
and, we think, professional
looking.
However, it is significantly
more expensive than the LCD
Shield Maker Plate (K9655),
which is better suited to more
basic tasks. The more limited
RAM and flash memory do
limit its capabilities somewhat, but it’s powerful enough
for many basic applications.
To purchase, visit your local
Altronics shop or order from
D2
CTS
CT
S
1k
A2
A3
A4
A5
Conclusion
10k
Fig.8: here’s how to
connect one of the
ubiquitous CP2102 USB/serial adaptors,
available from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE
SHOP (siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3543)
to the serial header on the Touchscreen
Maker Plate. This provides both serial
communication between the computer
and microcontroller, and allows you to
upload freshly compiled sketches.
their website at the following links
(which also have more information
on both products):
TFT Touchscreen Maker Plate
($175): www.altronics.com.au/p/
k9660
LCD Shield Maker Plate ($84.95):
www.altronics.com.au/p/k9655
Final assembly
As you might expect, the board is
a very snug fit for the wallplate, and
we found that we had to tweak the
mounting bolts slightly to get them
to fit the holes in the PCB, as well as
allow the PCB to fit. The two flexible
cables (for the LCD and keypad) are
also a bit awkward to fit. But it makes
a neat package when you manage to
put it all together.
Like the TFT Touchscreen Maker
Plate, either a wall cavity or spacer
siliconchip.com.au
Here an
assembled K9655
plate is shown
with a motor driver
Arduino shield
plugged in. There’s a
huge variety of shields
on the market to
accomplish just about
any task you can think
of!
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 85
Just what does “Home Automation” mean?
It’s sometimes called
a “Smart Home” but either term basically means
engaging technology to
make the decisions required to control any, or
as many of, the devices
in and around a home
which you normally make
the decisions to control
yourself.
Some of those decisions are made completely autonomously according to parameters you (or someone else) have set up. Others may require your input, either at home via some form of keypad or
screen – or if you’re not home, via information sent direct to
your smartphone (and your decisions sent back the same way
and acted upon).
Some of those “smart home” decisions, the ones often mentioned, include:
• Climate control: turning on air conditioning or ventilation to
maintain a comfortable temperature – eg, heating the home
when it’s cold or cooling it when it’s hot.
• Lighting control: turning lights on and off as required – for
example, sensing whether someone is in a room and turning lights off when they’re not – but also setting the lighting
level you prefer.
• Blind and shutter control: you select the time or lighting conditions when you want them open or closed.
• Entertainment control: Selecting what your hifi/TV/etc system
plays for you – and the level it plays at – possibly by learning what your preferences are according to the time of day.
• Security: maintaining a protection system in and around your
home and reacting to any triggering it detects.
• Access control: allowing access (even unlocking and opening doors) to your home for persons who have access rights
and denying it for those who don’t – then choosing an appropriate course of action.
• Appliance control: turning appliances on or off according to
demand, to take advantage of lower tariffs, etc.
But there are many other “things” which home automation
can play a part in, such as
• Building sensors – reacting to anything outside the “norm”
such as fire, flooding, gas build-up, power outages, etc.
• Personal health and safety – keeping tabs on who is at
home, their health, medication reminders, baby monitors, etc.
• Pool and spa pumps and automatic chlorinators.
• Remembering – to lock the front door or close the garage
when you forget (and just as importantly, NOT closing the
garage door when something is in the way!).
• And even to make your home look “lived in” while you are
away – and reporting to your smartphone if something is
not quite right!
• Charging control: got a storage battery or maybe an electric car? You can choose when to turn chargers on, again
by determining when tariffs are cheapest.
And we’ve really only looked at the home here – but already,
“farm automation” is making huge inroads into properties,
86
Silicon Chip
managing water resources,
stock levels and locations,
even farm gates and so on.
These are just some of
the tasks that home automation either undertakes
now or promises to undertake. (Obviously there are
many more).
But just how does it/can it?
The interfaces
The big sticking point, for the “average” person, is the interface between the computers or microcontrollers that are programmed to make the smart home smart . . . and the devices
which switch, or measure, or adjust, or warn, or otherwise “do”
the smart tasks.
Of course, control circuitry is myriad. If you Google “home
automation” or “smart home” on the net, you’ll get millions, perhaps billions of hits. It might take you a while to sort the treasure from the trash but it’s highly likely you’ll find something to
do what YOU want to do (or very close to it).
That’s fine – but once again, how does the “average” person actually do it?
One of the “biggies” is that a large proportion of the home
equipment lending itself to Home Automation is not only mains
powered, it’s hard-wired (especially in existing buildings). Think
lighting, for example. And in many countries, Australia included, working on mains wiring is illegal if you don’t have the appropriate licence.
Where mains devices are plug-in, it’s less of a problem –
though in some jurisdictions, even interfacing with those can
be illegal.
This has been overcome to at least some degree by many
electricians “going back to school” and learning all about smart
homes and their control.
That’s fine – but still leaves the hobbyist out of the loop, so
to speak.
The big “IF” is that IF electrical wiring has been modified illegally and IF there is a problem (fire, for instance) not only is
the hobbyist liable to be prosecuted but insurance companies
may refuse to pay for any loss or damage.
The software
This is perhaps the easiest part of the whole smart home
equation.
With the proliferation of microcontrollers and similar devices,
there is almost certain to be software out there to do whatever
you want with home automation and the smart home – or at
least close to it.
Again, Google is your friend!
Even many of the projects published in SILICON CHIP in recent years have code which, when you think about it, could be
part of a Home Automation control system.
We’re not going to dwell on the fact that you might not speak
Arduino or Pi or Micromite or …...... – but it’s not hard to find
someone who does (especially in online forums).
Or perhaps it’s time to dip your toe into the micro pool and
learn what it’s all about?
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Build &
Make Sale
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres®
An easy to program 2 wheel
obstacle avoidance and line
tracking robot using the standard
BBC Micro:bit software. It can
be programmed to run on its
own or controlled by Bluetooth.
Easy to follow instruction
booklet provided with simple
construction. Requires 18650
lithium cell (S 4737 $19.50)
& BBC micro:bit board
$35.50 (Z6440).
Gear to invent, power and create!
Prices end October 31st.
Ages
8+
240V
power from
a lithium
battery!
44.95
$
M 8199A
225
$
Carry 240V Power Anywhere!
This portable solar generator is fitted with 42,000mAh battery
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appliances anywhere! Plus 2.1mm DC power & USB charging.
N 0040E 40W solar panel to suit $85.
9999 Count
True RMS
DMM
D 2207
59.95
$
Add on a Z 6440 micro:bit
starter pack for $30!
Tobbie II Robot Kit
Tobbie is back and he’s had an upgrade!
Powered by the popular BBC micro:bit board,
this new version has unlimited scope for self
programming. Front screen displays text &
symbols. Requires 4xAAA batteries (S4949B).
70
$
SAVE 22%
Simply place your phone in the holder
to keep it topped up whilst you’re
driving! Convenient windscreen or air
vent mounting. Great for Uber drivers
or road reps. Includes USB A-C cable.
Bargain
Walkie Talkie
Package
Amazing value for
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talkies offer a great way
to keep in touch on
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off-road adventures! 16
channels with charging
dock. Range up to 5km.
79
.95
SAVE 22%
39
$
X 7026
• Indoor/outdoor temp • Humidity &
air pressure • Weather forecast, moon
phase, time & date. • Requires 2xAA
(S4955B) & 2xAAA (S4949B) batteries.
39.95
$
T 2486
Mini Blow Torch
A 1300°C blow torch with adjustable
gas feed for a variety of tasks such
as brazing and model making.
X 0669
$
Lost your aircon
remote? Or has your
enthusiastic toddler
destroyed it? This
replacement works
with hundreds of
aircons. Requires
2xAAA batteries
$
(S4949B).
Wireless Weather Station
Don’t
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the gas!
T 2451
$8.50.
*Phone for illustration
purposes.
Z 6454
A 1014
Phone Holder with
Wireless Charging
69.95
Love your slow
cooked meats?
Cook to perfection
with the EasyBBQ
dual probe monitor.
All while you kick
back and enjoy a
coldie! Android or
NEW!
iOS compatible.
0-300°C range.
Requires 2xAAA
batteries (S4904).
Ages
8+
24.95
Bluetooth® BBQ
Temperature
$
Monitor
X 7015
With in-built AC
mains detection.
Featuring a striking
easy to read reverse
backlit screen and a
massive 9999 count
readout. Auto ranging
with easy push button
operation.
Great price
and build
quality.
Q 1090
K 1150
SAVE $20
Universal
Aircon Remote
NEW!
SAVE $54
99
$
Build & code
your own robot
with STEM Bot.
Triple USB
Charger
Keep all your
devices powered up in the
car. 5.1A max
output.
M 8628A
14.50
$
Mains Energy
Consumption
Meter
SAVE
$15
T 2690A
95
$
30W Lithium ‘Go Anywhere’ Soldering Iron
45 minute run time. 600°C max. Ideal for occasional soldering jobs or light duty
repairs and field servicing. Recharge by USB power adaptor in your car or at home also recharges from a battery bank. Includes replaceable 18650 battery.
See last page for store locations or visit altronics.com.au
Monitor the real
running costs
of electrical
appliances around
the home or office.
Easy in-line plugin
operation.
P 8133B
19.95
$
Sale pricing ends October 31st 2019.
The parts you need to get tinkering!
CLEARANCE
DEAL
SAVE $50
Now with
dual 4K
HDMI
outputs!
19.95
$
P 6631A 1.5m
29.95
$
P 6632A 3m
Micro HDMI Cables
Connect your new Pi to your
monitors with ease. 1.5m and 3m.
85
14.95
105
$
H 8964 Red
H 8965 Black
Raspberry Pi 4 Case
SAVE $40
125
99
$
Z 6516 7” 1024x600
$
Z 6514 7” 800x600
SAVE $25
Z 6307
NEW!
Z 6441
19
$
23
$
NodeMCU ESP8266 Board
With Wi-Fi for easy plug and play
connected projects. GPIO breakout pins,
full USB-serial interface and pre-flashed
NodeMCU in one compact package!
A complete and self-contained WiFi
network solution that can operate
independently or as a slave on other
host MCUs. 3.3V input.
74
$
NEW!
.95
ESP8266EX
Mini Wi-Fi Module
Z 6443
7
$ .95
2A Lithium
Charger Module
A compact module for charge management of lithium cells. Accepts 5-18V DC
input, provides 4.2V charging output.
SAVE 10%
45
Z 6513 5” 800x480
$
K 9615
• Great for integrated projects, mini game consoles, information stands,
mini PCs etc • Works with raspbian & ubuntu • Easy HDMI connection.
SAVE 25%
45
$
Z 6467
IoT Arduino Development Board
Arduino Starter Platform Kit
Connect your Arduino design to the internet-ofthings with this handy W5500 ethernet board with
atmega328p on board. Fully UNO compatible with
USB download & micro SD slot.
A handy starter kit for educators or Arduino newbies. Includes an
Arduino UNO compatible board, blue acrylic base, 5V 2A power supply,
USB lead, breadboard, 65pcs of jumper leads & hardware.
SAVE 32%
A 240x320px touch
screen shield for Arduino
utilising the ILI9341
chipset. 3.3/5V input.
HAT board with soldermasked 0.1” holes &
stackable GPIO header.
10
Large Touchscreens For Raspberry Pi®
2.8” Touchscreen
Arduino UNO
Shield
ProtoHAT for
Raspberry Pi®
$
SAVE 23%
Z 6381
$
Pi sold separately.
In black/grey or original red/white
colours.
Z 6302G 4GB RAM
25%
OFF!
SAVE
15%
$
Z 6302E 2GB RAM
The latest Pi 4 is now capable of running two
monitors at once - in 4K resolution too! It’s also
equipped with USB 3.0, upgraded CPU and a
choice of 2GB or 4GB RAM. Micro sized desktop
computing has arrived!
75
Includes a Raspberry Pi board 3 Model
B, red acrylic base, 5V 3A power supply,
GPIO breakout & breadboard.
$
The Latest Raspberry Pi® 4
SAVE $44
K 9620
Raspberry Pi® 3
Starter Platform Kit
25
$
Z 6510A
128x128px TFT
Display Module
SAVE 24%
Z 6524A
15
$
A small display for a
variety of applications.
SPI interface with 3.3/5V
input.
DIY Tinkerers Kit
For Arduino
Includes an Arduino
UNO compatible board, protoshield, alphanumeric LCD, dot
matrix LED module, 7 segment
displays, two breadboards,
stepper motor, servo, IR
remote, connection
leads, battery box
and a variety of
components, buttons
and sensors.
Z 6442
J 0070
19
$
NEW!
SAVE 38%
K 9815
.95
14.95
$
20
$
ATDev Shield for ATTiny Kit
A powerful and versatile programming and
breakout shield for ATtiny. Combine with a
UNO for instant programmer and debugging.
4 for
$
24
NEMA17 42 Step Motor
LN298 Dual Motor Module
48BYG stepper with 1m interface lead. designed to drive inductive loads, such
as relays, solenoids, DC and stepping
5mm shaft. 12V.
motors. 2 channels. 5V input.
Z 6393
SAVE 29%
14
$
SAVE 30%
NEW!
13.95
$
Z 6392
SAVE $26
89
$
Z 6314
Z 6444
Lightweight SG90 Servo
High Torque MG995 Servo
MG90S Micro Metal Servo
A great micro servo for lightweight
robotics applications. 180 degree
rotation (±90°). 3.5-6V operation.
A high speed metal geared servo with
12kg/cm torque. Weighs 55 grams. 120
degree rotation (±60°)
A high speed metal geared servo with
2kg/cm torque. Weighs 14.5 grams.
180 degree rotation (±90°).
altronics.com.au » 24/7 ordering » In-store order pick up. » Fast delivery.
NEW!
Top Electronics Workbench Deals.
599
269
$
$
SAVE $66
K 8400
Features 3
preset channels
for quick temp
selection.
T 2460A
6 colour multi
colour pack
of filament
K 8405 $24.95
GREAT
FOR DIY
ART!
79.95
$
K 8300
NEW Core I3 Desktop 3D Printer Kit
3D Printing Pen
Add 3D printing to your workbench to produce working prototypes, ‘one-offs’ & finished
designs downloadable from the internet. From printing your own gaming pieces to
cosplay parts & fixes for broken parts, this printer adds versatility to any workbench.
Filament roll holder to suit K 8403 $17.95.
Features: • 200x200x200 build volume• PLA filament • Pre-terminated cables
for easy construction • Heated auto levelling print bed • Build time ≈3 hours.
Wire Stripper
& Kwik
Crimper Toolbox
space
Combines
saver!
a ratchet
wire stripper,
cutting blade & kwik
crimper (red, blue
and yellow sheaths).
Suits 10-24 AWG
cable.
NEW!
27.95
$
11 Pc Screwdriver Set
T 2198B
Quality set of flat blade and phillips screwdrivers
for general repairs. Chrome vanadium.
35
$
SAVE 15%
SAVE 15%
30
$
A 22pc ratchet set designed for working in
tight spaces. Fits in the palm of your hand, or
use with a wrench handle. Includes driver tips
and sockets.
NEW!
SAVE 27%
19.95
29
$
T 2175A
$
T 2555
Hands free, close up viewing
while you work.
Offers 1.5, 2.6 and 5.8x magnification with
LED lamp. Requires 2xAAA’s (S4904 $4.95 2pk).
SAVE $36
Installer
favourite!
129
$
T 2174
T 2188
T 2186A
1000V Rated Insulated Tool Kit
1000V Precision Driver Kit
101 Pc Ratchet Driver Kit
Ideal for technicians working on mains powered
equipment. Includes cutters, pliers, wire strippers,
5 screwdrivers plus a neon test driver and 2 rolls of
insulation tape - all in a handy carry case.
Smaller sizes than most 1000V rated driver
sets. Ideal for servicing AC equipment. 3 flat
blade (2.0, 2.5 & 3mm) and 3 phillips (#000,
#00, #0).
A tool for every occasion! Features 95 security,
philips, pozi and slotted bits made from tough
S2 alloy. Includes two way ratchet handle with
comfy rubber grip. See web for full contents list.
Tool Super Savers.
33
$
T 2171
Palm Ratchet Driver Set
SAVE 28%
50
A sturdy 100W benchtop soldering station featuring
an all aluminium case and 2.8” touchscreen for
quick temperature and preset selection. 100-500°C
temp range with slimline handle featuring burn
resistant cable.
SAVE 20%
T 1528A
$
Micron® Touchscreen
Control Soldering Station
A crafty addition to any work space,
this handheld pen extrudes 1.75mm
PLA or ABS filament for decorating
objects, plastic repair jobs or touch ups
to 3D printed models. Easy to use with
adjustable extrusion speed. Includes 12m
of PLA filament.
SAVE
28%
Specialist Coaxial Crimper Kit
Crimps virtually any type of coaxial RF connector!
All metal crimp tool includes 5 sets of jaws to suit
BNC, F, TNC, N, PL259, PAL & SMA. Strippers
and cutters also included.
T 2282
SAVE
14%
10
$
T 5000
SAVE
28%
39
$
SAVE
$30
T 1450
10.50
$
T 1295
79
17
$
$
Whisk Away Smelly Fumes
Super Sturdy Tool Case
Tired of coughing on soldering fumes when
soldering? This compact fume extractor whisks
away smoke & filters the air. All metal - built to
last. Spare filters, T 1291 $13.60.
Aluminium panels with reinforced
corners & seams. Locking latches.
Perforated inner foam.
330x230x90 mm.
The Pocket Hero is here!
This nifty 12 in 1 pocket sized
saviour helps you fix life’s little problems then folds up to the size of a
pack of gum! Includes belt pouch.
See last page for store locations or visit altronics.com.au
T 1460 Magnifier
Handy Desktop Holders
The hobbyists dream - just like having an extra
hand to get things done! Great for gluing,
painting or soldering.
Sale pricing ends October 31st 2019.
Secure your home and a great deal!
SAVE $400
REDUCED
FROM
$899
499
SAVE $300
$
899
$
S 9900H 4 Domes
S 9941
IS PRICE!
20 SYSTEMS ONLY AT TH
Why settle for
just HD? This
system features
2K detail and
clarity.
Affordable 4 Megapixel
CCTV Surveillance System.
Nothing else to buy!
Pre-installed with 1TB
hard drive.
4 Channel Wireless CCTV System
Add security to your home or business with our high resolution 4
megapixel (1080p) CCTV pack. Wireless cameras cut down installation time
and effort! Pack includes power supplies for each camera, a network video
recorder (expands to 9 channels) and four compact bullet cameras.
Simple to install with instructions supplied. Cameras can be remote viewed on iOS/Android.
Each pack includes: • HD digital video recorder • Pro grade 4MP resolution weatherproof
cameras • 20m connection leads • Power supply • HARD DRIVES TO SUIT:
1TB $110 (D 5514), 2TB $155 (D 5516).
NEW!
1.5”
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rear
Ideal
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119
$
S 9442
189
$
SAVE 22%
33
S 9017
$
S 5322
1080p GPS WiFi Dash Camera
Protect yourself with this feature packed
dash cam! 1080p footage and includes
high end features such as GPS, wi-fi footage
transfer, G-sensor triggering & parking
mode. Theft deterrent magnetic bracket.
Wireless Door/Entry Alert
A handy motion activated chime
unit for shops to notify staff when
customers arrive. Also great for
driveways. 120m range. Requires
3xAAA batteries & 3xC batteries.
S 9843A
The latest in CCTV surveillance - in-built battery means you don’t need to
run any cables! Just mount it to the wall bracket for up to 6 months of
motion detect recording. When it’s flat, just take it off the wall & recharge
via USB. iOS and Android app provides monitoring, battery & motion
detect notifications. Records to Micro SD (DA0330 64GB $24.95).
Get the full picture with 360° horizontal
and 118° vertical motorised viewing.
Kasa app allows easy swipe pan/tilt
movements. Provides 1080p full HD
video with object tracking mode and
night vision.
Outdoor Solar WiFi Camera
This 1080p “cabling free” 2MP camera is ideal for use in
situations where cabling for power and video are impractical. It
provides superb clarity for both day and night use. Motion detect
notifications can be sent to your phone.
IP66 outdoor rating with
tough diecast case.
NEW!
SAVE 20%
NEW!
59.95
$
S 5308
4 for
$
79
Top Value IR Bullet Camera
Bargain Movement Detectors
1080p AHD + 960H resolution. Ideal
replacement or for use in a new system.
Affordable, reliable detection for your
home or business!
17.95
$
No wiring!
Just bolt it to
the wall.
S 5327
Magnetic Door Chime & Alarm
Alerts you when a door or window opens
with an alarm or chime. Great for notifying
you when customers arrive at your
business. Adhesive backed, installs in
seconds! Requires 2xAAA batteries.
S 9845
Sale Ends October 31st 2019
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Western Australia
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
Victoria
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave
329
$
Find a local reseller at:
altronics.com.au/resellers
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore
the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may
vary from our catalogue.
Queensland
03 9549 2188
03 9549 2121
New South Wales
» Auburn: 15 Short St
Includes magnetic
ball & standard
wall brackets
100% Cable Free HD Surveillance
TP-Link® Wi-Fi Pan/Tilt
Indoor Camera
1080p
video for
$60!
S 9138G
199
$
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
07 3441 2810
South Australia
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd
08 8164 3466
02 8748 5388
© Altronics 2019. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
B 0091
Add on an
MicroSD
card 16GB
$9.95
(DA0328).
For those times when near enough isn’t good enough!
PRECISION “AUDIO”
PRECISION
SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
There’s a law in electronics which says you can never have too much test
equipment. Even if it is pretty specialised; even if you only need it once
every blue moon, there will come a time when you do need it! This one
fits the bill perfectly: you’re not going to need it every day . . . but when
you do, you’ll thank your good sense that you do have one on hand!
S
o what are we talking about? It’s
a Precision “Audio” Signal Amplifier. It’s used when you need
to know – exactly – what “audio” signal you’re dealing with.
“Audio” is in quotes because it will
actually handle signals way below the
normal audio range (down to just 6Hz)
and it can go all the way up to more
than 230kHz . . . or even higher.
Talk about the proverbial “DC to
Daylight” amplifier . . . this one is not
far off!
It can deliver a particularly impressive 30V peak-to-peak (10.6V RMS) up
siliconchip.com.au
to around 230kHz. It has two switched
gain settings of either 1.00 times (0dB)
or 10.000 times (+20dB), and it’s powered from a standard 12V AC plugpack.
OK, so why would you
want one?
Let’s say you’ve built some audio
gear and want to check it out properly. Or maybe, you need to accurately
calibrate other test gear.
Or perhaps (and we imagine this
will be the biggest market) you’re in
By Jim Rowe
Australia’s electronics magazine
the service game and need to troubleshoot a misbehaving unit.
You may already have a low-cost
waveform generator (there are many
on the market these days) and they are
increasingly built into DSOs.
They can usually generate sine,
square, triangle and often ‘arbitrary’
waveforms with varying frequencies
and amplitudes.
But the maximum amplitude is usually limited to about 5V peak-to-peak
and often, that simply isn’t sufficient.
This project overcomes that limitation. It can be connected to the output
October 2019 91
of the waveform generator to provide
exactly ten times gain, boosting the signal level to just over 10V RMS.
And because the gain applied is very
precise, you don’t need to check the
output level. You just set the generator to produce a waveform with 1/10th
the needed amplitude and the signal
amplifier does the rest.
I came up against this problem when
calibrating our new Digital Audio Millivoltmeter, described starting on page
42 of this issue.
I have a few signal generators, but
none of them could produce a sinewave with sufficient amplitude to
calibrate its “HIGH” range. So I decided to design and build this precision
amplifier, to generate accurate signals
of a high enough amplitude for me to
calibrate it.
And I realised just how useful this
would be for other audio projects! It
provides a choice of two accurately known gain ranges (1:1/0dB or
1:10/+20dB), over a relatively wide
range of frequencies, from 20Hz up to
beyond 200kHz.
Circuit details
The Signal Amplifier circuit is
shown in Fig.2. As you can see, the
amplifier itself (lower section) is quite
straightforward.
That’s because we are using a rather
special op amp, the Analog Devices
ADA4625-1 (IC1).
It offers very high input resistance,
thanks to the use of JFET input transistors. It has a typical gain-bandwidth
product of 18MHz, very low noise,
fast settling time (to within 0.01% in
700ns), a rail-to-rail output swing and
the ability to operate from a ‘single
Features & specifications
Input impedance: .............................. 100kΩ//9pF
Output impedance: ........................... 51Ω (each output)
Gain: .......................................................... A=1 (0dB) or A=10 (+20dB)
Frequency range: (see Fig.1)........ For A=1: 6Hz to >1MHz (+0,-0.3dB)
........................................................................ For A=10: 20Hz to 230kHz (+0,-0.3dB)
Maximum input signal level: ..... For A=1: 10.6V RMS (+20.5dBV)
........................................................................ For A=10: 1.06V RMS (+0.5dBV)
Maximum output signal level: ... 10.6V RMS (+20.5dBV)
THD+N: .................................................... For A=1: 0.0007% (-103dB)
........................................................................ For A=10: 0.007% (-83dB)
Power supply: ...................................... 12V AC at <100mA
supply’ of up to 36V.
Other features include a low output
resistance in closed-loop mode (typically 2Ω when gain=1 or 18Ω when
gain=10) and the ability to drive load
capacitances up to 1nF in closed-loop
unity-gain operation.
We are using IC1 in a standard noninverting configuration, with the input
signal from CON1 coupled to its noninverting input (pin 3) via a 1µF metallised polyester capacitor.
The output from IC1 is then fed to
output connectors CON2 and CON3
via another 1µF metallised polyester
coupling cap, with a 51Ω protective
(and impedance-matching) resistor in
series with each connector.
Switch S1 is used to alter the feedback around IC1, to provide either
unity gain or a gain of 10.
In the A=10 position, the 100kΩ
0.1% resistor forms the top arm of
the feedback divider, while the lower
arm is formed by the series combina-
20.5
SIGNAL AMPLIFIER GAIN in dB
20.0
x10 RANGE
19.5
19.0
0.5
0.0
x1 RANGE
–0.5
1Hz
10Hz
100Hz
10kHz
1kHz
100kHz
1MHz
FREQUENCY
Fig.1: this shows a frequency response plot for the Signal Amplifier at both gain
settings. The response in both modes is entirely flat from 100Hz to 50kHz, so
ideally, calibration and measurements should be made within that range. But it
gives acceptable performance (within 0.3dB) from 20Hz to 230kHz, which more
than covers the audio range.
92
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
tion of the 10kΩ and 820Ω fixed resistors together with VR1, a 15-turn 500Ω
trimpot.
The trimpot allows us to set the amplifier’s gain to exactly 10.000, by compensating for within-tolerance variations in
the value of the 10kΩ and 820Ω resistors (both 1% tolerance) as well as the
100kΩ 0.1% tolerance resistor.
Although it’s easy to calculate the
nominal lower-arm resistance for a
gain of 10.000 (it’s 11.111kΩ), this
would need to be made up from at
least two more 0.1% tolerance resistors (11.0kΩ and 110Ω), to give a gain
of 10.0009 with a tolerance of +0.018%
and -0.0162%.
By using two 1% tolerance resistors
and a 15-turn trimpot, we can achieve
even better potential accuracy at a significantly lower cost.
But how do you set the gain to exactly 10.000? You just need a relatively accurate DMM. You measure the value of
the 100kΩ 0.1% resistor (which should
be between 99.9kΩ and 100.1kΩ), then
divide that by nine, and adjust VR1
so that the total lower-arm resistance
matches the calculated value (which
should be close to 11.111kΩ).
The upper part of the circuit exists
primarily to generate a 32V DC supply
voltage from the 12V AC plugpack, so
that IC1 can deliver output signal amplitudes as high as 30V peak-to-peak
or 10.6V RMS.
This is achieved in two stages. First,
diodes D1 and D2 and the two 470µF
capacitors form a simple ‘voltage doubler’ rectifier configuration, which derives about 38V DC from the incoming 12V AC.
This is followed by voltage regulator
REG1, an SMD version of the familiar
siliconchip.com.au
D3 1N5819
K
A
REG1 LM317M
+32V
OUT
K
10k
3.3k
D4
1N5819
100
+16V
INSULATED
SINGLE HOLE
MOUNTING
BNC SOCKET
220nF
LED1
K
100k
K
A
12V AC
INPUT
470 F
CON4
25V
A
35V
LOW
ESR
K
D2
1N5819
5.6k
220nF
A
470 F
50V
10k
100nF
220nF
ADJ
240
D1 1N5819
47 F
50V
A
IN
25V
330
INPUT
CON1
1 F
7
3
IC1: ADA4625
6
100V
2
4
1 F
CON2
51
OUTPUT
1
100V
SELECT
GAIN
S1
A = 10
SET x10
GAIN
SC
20 1 9
820
VR1
500
15T
10k
10 F
CON3
51
OUTPUT
2
A=1
LED1
100k 0.1%
ADA4625
8
4
K
25V
1.5pF
1
A
1N5819
precision audio signal AMPLIFIER
A
K
LM317M
(SOT-223-3)
ADJ
OUT IN
TAB
(OUT)
Fig.2: the Signal Amplifier circuit is based around precision JFET-input op amp IC1 and uses a precision resistor and
trimpot to provide a very accurate 10 times gain (+20dB), to boost the level of signals from devices such as arbitrary
waveform generators. The 12V AC supply is boosted and regulated to 32V DC using a full-wave voltage doubler
configuration (D1 & D2), followed by a low-ripple adjustable linear regulator (REG1).
The SILICON CHIP
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- Capacitance - Frequency
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Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 93
Parts list – Precision Signal Amplifier
1 double-sided PCB, code 04107191, 92 x 51mm
1 diecast aluminium box, 111 x 60 x 54mm [Jaycar HB5063]
1 12V AC plugpack (100mA or higher) with 2.1 or 2.5mm plug
1 SPST mini toggle switch (S1)
1 insulated BNC socket, single hole panel mounting (CON1)
2 BNC sockets, single hole panel mounting (CON2,CON3)
1 PCB-mount concentric DC socket, 2.1mm or 2.5mm inner diameter (to suit
plugpack) (CON4)
4 25mm long M3 tapped spacers
8 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
2 1mm PCB stakes (optional)
9 30mm lengths of hookup wire (to connect S1 & CON1-3 to the PCB)
Semiconductors
1 ADA4625-1ARDZ low-noise JFET input op amp, SOIC-8 SMD package (IC1)
1 LM317M adjustable voltage regulator, SOT-223-3 SMD package (REG1)
4 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diodes (D1-D4)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
Capacitors
2 470µF 25V RB electrolytic
1 47µF 35V RB low-ESR electrolytic
1 10µF 25V multi-layer ceramic (X5R 3216/1206 SMD)
2 1µF 100V polyester (radial leaded)
3 220nF 50V multi-layer ceramic (X5R 3216/1206 SMD)
1 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic (X5R 3216/1206 SMD)
1 1.5pF 100V multi-layer ceramic (C0G 1206 or 0603 SMD)
Resistors (1% all SMD 3216/1206 SMD unless otherwise stated)
1 100kΩ 0.1% 0.25W axial leaded
1 100kΩ
3 10kΩ
1 5.6kΩ
1 3.3kΩ
1 820Ω
1 330Ω
1 240Ω
1 100Ω
2 51Ω
1 500Ω 15-turn horizontal trimpot (VR1)
ration, each filter capacitor only recharges at 50Hz.
The 32V rail is also used to provide
a ‘half supply voltage’ bias of 16V for
the non-inverting input of IC1, via a
10kΩ/10kΩ resistive divider with a
220nF ripple filter capacitor.
LED1 is a power-on indicator, con-
50V
D4
CON2
TP
32V
100
1
1210
100k
1 F
51
51
CON3
100nF
A
S1 (ABOVE)
10 F
D3
50V
220nF
OUTPUTS
3.3k
GAIN
10k
IC1
10k
SET x10
820
LED1
0.1%
1.5pF
TP GND
Fig.3: all of the components mount on this PCB, except
for CON1-CON3 and switch S1. The design uses a mix of
through-hole and surface-mounting parts. Fit them where
shown here, being careful to ensure that IC1, LED1, diodes
D1-D4 and the electrolytic capacitors are mounted with the
correct polarity.
94
Silicon Chip
Almost all of the circuitry and components are mounted on a single PCB
which fits inside a diecast aluminium
box, for shielding.
The PCB measures 92 x 51mm and
is coded 04107191. Refer now to the
overlay diagram, Fig.3, along with the
matching photo.
The only components not mounted on the PCB are input and output
connectors CON1-CON3 and range
selection switch S1. These all mount
on the box lid/front panel, with short
lengths of hookup wire linking them
to the PCB.
It’s easiest to fit the SMD components to the PCB first, starting with the
passives (resistors and capacitors) and
then REG1 and IC1.
Make sure IC1’s pin 1 dot/divot (or
bevelled edge) is orientated as shown
in Fig.3.
Then fit the leaded parts, starting
with the 100kΩ 0.1% resistor and diodes D1-D4 (with the orientations as
shown), trimpot VR1, the two 1µF
capacitors, the two 470µF and 47µF
electrolytic capacitors (longer lead
towards + sign) and then the power
input connector, CON4.
The final step is to fit LED1, which
is mounted vertically just below the
centre of the PCB.
First solder a 2-pin SIL header to
the PCB, then solder the LED’s leads
to the header pins, with the LED anode towards the front.
The underside of the LED body
should be about 24mm above the top
5819
47 F 35V
LOW ESR
POWER
VR1 500 15T
220nF
25V
D1
100k
4625
10k
1 F
Construction
240
REG1 LM317M
470 F
5819
+
CON1
5819
330 5.6k
220nF
INPUT
470 F25V
12V AC IN
CON4
04107191 C 2019
RevC
+
19170140
04107191
02 C
C9 12019
D2
CRevC
v eR
5819
LM317 adjustable regulator. Here it’s
configured to provide a regulated output of 32V which is fed to IC1 via a
100Ω resistor.
The 220nF capacitor from the ADJ
(Adjust) pin to ground improves its
ripple rejection, which is helpful here
as with the voltage doubler configu-
nected to the +32V line via a 3.3kΩ
series resistor.
And here’s the almost-complete PCB immediately before
final assembly. Naturally, S1 and the connectors are not yet
fitted because these mount on the front panel and connect to
the PCB via short wire links. The PCB “hangs”
off the front panel via 25mm M3 tapped spacers, which are
screwed to the four holes in the PCB corners.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
of the PCB. This will allow it to protrude through the box lid/front panel
when the unit is assembled.
Your Signal Amplifier PCB is then
virtually complete. The next step is to
set the gain of its 10x/20dB range. Use
a DMM with the best resistance accuracy possible.
Monitor the resistance between the
junction of the 10kΩ resistor and 10µF
capacitor near VR1, and the PCB’s
ground. Then adjust trimpot VR1 until this resistance is as close as possible to one-ninth the resistance of the
100kΩ 0.1% resistor.
If you’re not confident of your
DMM’s accuracy, it may be easier to
simply adjust the lower arm’s resistance to measure 11,111Ω (11.111kΩ,
or 100kΩ÷9).
But if you can measure both values
on the same range, any proportional
inaccuracy in the DMM itself should
be cancelled out as it applies to both
measurements.
It’s now time to test the completed
PCB by connecting a source of 12V
AC, such as an AC plugpack. LED1
should light up.
Measure the voltage between TP 32V
and TP GND. You should get a reading
close to 32V. If so, you can disconnect
the power lead and put the PCB aside
while you work on the box.
Preparing the box
along with switch S1, and then turn the
panel over and solder short lengths of
insulated hookup wire to the rear connection lugs of the connectors and S1.
Next, attach the four 25mm-long M3
tapped spacers to the corners of the
front panel, using four 12mm long M3
screws. Then you can cut the hookup
wires soldered to CON1-CON3 and S1
to a length which will enable them to
A
just pass through the PCB holes when
the board is attached to the rear of the
spacers.
Remove about 6mm of insulation
from all of the wire ends, so that they
can be easily soldered to the matching PCB pads.
After bending these wires so their
ends are positioned to meet with the
holes in the PCB, offer up the PCB
42
42
A
C
21.5
C
41
9.5
A
1
15
CL
41
9.5
21.5
B
C
A
42
A
42
CL
HOLES A: 3mm DIAMETER
HOLE B: 6.5mm DIAMETER
HOLES C: 9.0mm DIAMETER
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
(FRONT OF BOX)
3.5mm
DIAMETER
18.5
24.5
This is fairly straightforward. It involves drilling a total of nine holes in
the box lid/front panel, another hole
in the front of the box itself and then
a larger hole (12mm diameter) in the
box rear.
The locations and sizes of all these
holes are shown in the cutting diagram, Fig.4.
After all of the holes have been
drilled, cut and de-burred, you can attach a dress front panel to the lid, to
give the Signal Amplifier a neat and
user-friendly look. You can copy the
front panel artwork shown in Fig.6, or
download is a PDF file from the SILICON CHIP website.
Then you can print it out and laminate it in a protective pouch to protect
it from getting soiled.
It can then be attached to the box lid
using double-sided adhesive tape. The
final step is to use a sharp hobby knife
to cut the holes in the dress panel, to
match those in the lid underneath.
Now fit the three input and output
BNC connectors to the front panel,
Fig.4: here are the locations and sizes of the holes that need to be drilled
in the diecast aluminium enclosure. For the larger holes, it’s best to start
with a smaller pilot hole (eg, 3mm) and then enlarge it to size using either
a stepped drill bit, a series of larger drills or a tapered reamer. That
ensures accurate positioning and a clean, round hole. You can copy this
diagram and attach it to the box using tape to use it as a template
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
CL
(REAR OF BOX)
17
12mm DIAMETER
October 2019 95
And here’s an end-on view from the
input end. x10 gain is calibrated via the
multi-turn pot (blue component) in the
foreground.
Above are two views of the assembled unit from the front (top) and the rear
(bottom).
assembly to the spacers on the rear
of the panel.
With a bit of jiggling, you should
be able to get all of the wires to pass
through their matching holes. You can
then attach the PCB to the spacers using four more 6mm long M3 screws,
up-end the assembly and solder each
of the wires to its PCB pad.
Your Signal Amplifier is now complete, and should look like the one
shown in our photos.
All that remains is to lower the lidand-PCB assembly into the box and
fasten them together using the four
M4 countersunk-head screws supplied with it.
Checkout & use
At this stage, your Signal Amplifier
should be ready for use. Remember that
it can deliver a maximum output voltage of 30V peak to peak or 10.6V RMS,
assuming that it is feeding a high-impedance load, of 50kΩ or more.
If the load impedance is much lower, the maximum output amplitude
will be slightly reduced.
Note that you can check and even
adjust its calibration even after it has
been sealed in its box. To do this, you
will need an audio oscillator or function generator and a DMM with trueRMS AC voltage range with reasonable
accuracy and resolution.
Set your oscillator or function gen96
Silicon Chip
erator to produce a sinewave at 1kHz
and around 1V RMS, then connect
its output to the input of the Signal
Amplifier. Then connect your DMM’s
input to one of the Signal Amplifier
outputs.
With the Signal Amplifier’s gain set
to unity (A=1), power it up and your
DMM should indicate an AC voltage
very close to 1.00V. If not, you may need
to tweak the output of your oscillator/
generator until this reading is achieved.
Then all you have to do is select the
Signal Amplifier’s x10 range, whereupon the DMM reading should jump
to 10.000V, or very close to it. Adjust
trimpot VR1 with a small screwdriver
or alignment tool (through the small
hole in the front of the box), until the
DMM is reading 10.000V.
SC
Fig.5: this scope grab of
the unit’s output with a
full-swing (32V peakto-peak) 20kHz square
wave demonstrates the
fast slew rate and quick
settling time of the
ADA4625 op amp. You
can see that there is
minimal rounding and
overshoot after each
transition and it settles
close to the target value
in well under 1µs.
12V AC INPUT
www.siliconchip.com.au
INPUT
OUTPUT
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
Rout = 51
POWER
OUTPUT
Rin = 100k
(3Vp–p MAX)
A = 1.00
A = 10.00
Rout = 51
SET x10 GAIN
Fig.6: this 1:1 front panel artwork can be copied and fixed to the lid or can be
downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website, printed and then applied.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 97
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Three Norton (current feedback) amp based sinewave oscillators
I needed a simple sinewave oscillator for a project I was working on.
You might think that an operational
amplifier (op amp) with two resistors
and two capacitors in the feedback
loop would be sufficient.
However, in practice, this doesn't
work well. To get a pure sinewave with
a stable amplitude, additional components such as non-linear elements or
AGC (automatic gain control) need to
be introduced, as is common in Wien
bridge oscillator circuits.
For example, see the Wien Bridge
Oscillator circuit we published on page
89 of the July 2017 issue, which uses a
small lamp for amplitude stabilisation
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10725).
Other designs are even more complicated than this.
As I was working with Norton operational amplifiers at the time I needed
this oscillator, I considered whether it
was possible to design a simple sinewave oscillator around one of them.
The inputs behave like diodes, and it
occurred to me that they could provide the non-linear function required
for the oscillator.
After doing some mathematical calculations, I came up with circuit (a)
shown here. To my delight, it worked
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
98
Silicon Chip
perfectly the first time around. Further investigation showed that there
were only two other 'canonical' configurations possible. All three designs
are shown here, and test results are
presented.
For a full mathematical analysis
of these circuits, download the PDF:
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/5073
You can build these circuits using
one of the following ICs: LM3900 (National Semiconductor, now owned by
TI), MC3401 (Texas Instruments) or
CA3401 (RCA). These are all singlesupply amplifiers and for normal operation, they need to be biased so that
DC output voltage is half Vcc. This
means that the bias resistor is equal to
twice the negative feedback resistor. I
used the LM3900.
For all three, the circuits frequency
of oscillation is given by the following formula:
F(Hz) = √1 ÷ (R1 × R2 × C1 × C2) ÷ 2π
The condition for oscillation depends on the circuit configuration and
is shown below the circuit diagram. If
you can't get 20nF capacitors, you can
parallel two 10nF capacitors. You can
use various combinations of resistors in
series to get 40kW and 60kW, eg, 22kW
+ 18kW and 27kW + 33kW respectively.
I used 1% metal film resistors and
5% greencaps, and mostly the circuits
worked well. But the three different
circuits are not identical in terms of
sensitivity to component values.
I found circuit (a) the most stable,
both in terms of frequency and amplitude. The amplitude can be adjusted
by varying the value of the bias resistor, R3 in each circuit.
I observed some clipping on top of
the sinewave from circuit (b). This
could be eliminated by fine-tuning
the value of R3. Once tuned, the circuit is stable.
This circuit has the advantage that
R1 and R2 can be equal in value, which
might allow frequency tuning using a
dual-gang potentiometer. But DC biasing would require some thought in
this case.
Circuit (c) is more sensitive to component values than the other two. A
good sinewave output can be obtained
by adjusting the value of either R1 or
R2. The frequency determining capacitors C1 and C2 are equal in value, which might allow tuning of frequency by using a dual-gang variable
capacitor.
Mauri Lampi,
Glenroy, Vic. ($100)
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to
feature it in Circuit Notebook. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to
your PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online
Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit
and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Amplifying audio signals using a MAX232CPE
This circuit employs the popular
MAX232CPE serial driver chip, but
in a completely different application
than the device was conceived for. Despite that, it achieves reasonably good
performance.
The circuit is an analog audio
preamplifier which can produce a
symmetric output swing of around
±8V (ie, 16V total) despite running
from a 5V DC supply. It can provide
a small signal gain of up to about 400
times.
It could have many different applications, as a general purpose preamplifier to feed a small amplifier chip,
or perhaps to polarise varicap diodes
in an FM modulator.
In that application, its wide output
voltage range would allow a higher
variation of the varactors’ capacitance
and thus a greater modulation depth
than would be possible with a railto-rail op amp in the same role, running off 5V.
It works as follows. The audio signal
is coupled to input pin 10 of IC1 via a
47µF electrolytic capacitor and a 1kW
current-limiting resistor. The signal is
DC biased to a couple of volts above
ground by a divider across the 5V rail.
This comprises 25kW trimpot VR1, an
18kW resistor and a 15kW resistor.
Diodes D1 and D2 prevent input pin
10 from being driven above +5.6V or
below -0.6V in case a large amplitude
signal is applied.
Due to the absence of the typical
hysteresis and by employing a 1MW
feedback resistor and the aforementioned bias-setting resistors, which
also form a voltage divider with this
feedback resistor, the inverter is kept
in the linear zone. This allows analog
amplification to occur.
VR1 is adjusted for maximum symmetric output excursion, so that the
maximum amplitude is obtained at the
output before saturation. The signal at
the output of the inverter (pin 7 of IC1)
provides an amplified signal which
swings between approximately ±8V.
The circuit shows an extra 10µF
coupling capacitor and 56kW biasing
resistor which converts this signal to
one which swings between 0V and
+16V, by DC biasing the output using
the +8V available at pin 2 of IC1.
However, you could omit those components and take the output straight
from pin 7 if you need a signal which
siliconchip.com.au
swings both above and below ground.
Note that only one of
the four amplifiers in IC1
is being used. There is a
second amplifier which
could be configured similarly if you need to pass
a stereo signal, or want
more amplification stages,
connected to pins 11 & 14.
The other two amplifiers
work differently and will
not produce the same output signal swing.
I tested this circuit with
three different MAX232
variants. The first was an old one
manufactured by Intersil (ICL232CPE,
date code H0014BQPN) which worked
fine, as did a more recent example
from Maxim (MAX232CPE, date code
+1715). However, a different version
of the IC, MAX232N made by Texas
Instruments, does not work in this
application.
The capacitors connected to pins
1-6 are of the values recommended by
the manufacturer and should have a
minimum rating of 25V DC.
IC1 uses these capacitors to convert the 5V DC supply to approximately ±8V DC, usually used to produce RS232 signals with a symmetric
swing, although in this circuit, these
rails instead power the inverter stage
as a linear amplifier.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The accompanying scope grab
shows a 4kHz signal of around 36mV
peak-to-peak being fed into the circuit at the bottom, and the resulting 14.5V peak-to-peak output signal at the top. Note that the scales
used are very different; 50mV/div
for the bottom trace and 5V/div for
the top trace.
You can see that there is a little
distortion on the output sinewave,
but it is still clearly sinusoidal. The
-3dB upper cutoff frequency is about
18kHz, and the lower cutoff frequency is under 10Hz. These values are
adequate for amplification of human
voice and a wide range of other audio signals.
Ariel G. Benvenuto,
Paraná, Argentina ($75).
October 2019 99
Multiple DS18B20 temperature sensors on a single, long wire
I work as an engineer at a coal power
plant, and as you would expect, there
are lots of things that need to be constantly monitored.
Each 500MW steam turbine requires
1550 tons/hour of steam flow, which
after expansion in the gigantic steam
turbine, goes back to the condenser to
be cooled down to form water again.
Cooling such massive quantity of
steam at high ambient temperatures
back to water at 50°C requires about
540kcal/kg of heat to be removed.
To achieve that, about 60,000 tons of
water is circulated through the steam
turbine each hour continuously. This
water is cooled down to ambient by a
massive cooling tower.
The cooling tower of a typical
500MW boiler unit has ten huge individual cells in which hot circulat-
100
Silicon Chip
ing water from the steam turbine is
poured from the top and air is blown
from the bottom, so that the water
bubbles, and the air takes away as
much heat as possible. We were finding that some of these cells in some
towers were not working correctly,
impacting the overall water cooling
performance.
So we need to monitor the temperature at dozens of locations, starting
with each cooling cell in each cooling tower. We also need to monitor
the temperature at many points along
the pulverised fuel pipe, to ensure the
fuel cannot burn prematurely, and also
at various points along a coal-carrying
conveyor belt.
To do all this, I planned to use many
DS18B20 digital temperature sensors
arranged along wires that could each
Australia’s electronics magazine
be hundreds of metres long. So I had
to do some experiments to see how
many sensors I could connect to a
single wire, how long that wire could
be, and what type of wire works best.
One of the great aspects of the
DS18B20, besides needing just a single wire for communications and either two or three wires total including
power (depending on how you power
them), is that each one has a unique
identifier.
So in theory, you can connect as
many of these sensors as you want on
a single bus and communicate with
each by its ID.
I connected 20 DS18B20 sensors
along a 470m-long cable and found
that I could read the temperature from
each sensor just fine. Good quality cable is required, though. My initial test
siliconchip.com.au
with single-phase (three-wire) power
cable was successful, but I later tried
using 1mm2 copper solenoid cable and
it did not work well at all.
My conclusion is that the best cable to use is 3-core 6mm2 aluminium
power cable or 3-core 2.5mm2 copper
cable, which is suitable for this application with lengths of up to 500m.
The circuit shown is the one that
I have now deployed in the plant. It
shows six sensors connected to the
bus, but I am using many more than
that.
They are all connected in the same
manner. The 150W resistors isolate
each sensor from the cable capacitance while the unusually low 470W
pull-up resistor is required due to the
large distributed capacitance (the recommended value is 4.7kW).
As the cable has three cores, the sensors are used in 3-wire mode, with a
separate 5V power supply provided
by REG1 from a two-cell Li-ion battery. A mains power supply could
also be used.
The sensor grounds also connect
back to the ESP32 module, along with
the signal line, which goes to digital
input D13.
The ESP32 board is programmed using the Arduino IDE and is configured
with a real-time clock module, connected to its I2C serial data pins, and
a 433MHz LoRa transceiver, connected
to its second serial port (TX2/RX2).
Software running on the ESP32
reads the temperature from each sensor in turn and relays the results back
to a PC, with an identical LoRa transceiver connected via a USB/Serial
adaptor.
The ESP32 relay module is powered
from a single Li-ion cell, regulated to
3.3V by LDO regulator REG2. LED1 is
driven from the ESP32's D5 digital output, via a 1kW current-limiting resistor,
and flashes to indicate that it is active.
The software is named "multiple_
ds18b20_by_address.ino" and can be
downloaded from the Silicon Chip
website. It is quite simple; most of the
work is done by the OneWire and DallasTemperature libraries.
When the ESP32 is powered up, it
scans the 1-wire bus to determine the
number of devices on it, then gener-
ates an array containing the unique ID
of each one.
It then continuously runs through
that array, acquiring the temperature
from each device in turn and printing it
to the serial port, where it is fed to the
LoRa transceiver and onto the host PC.
You will need a way to figure out
which sensor ID corresponds to each
physical sensor to interpret the data;
for example, you could heat each one
in turn and see which temperature
reading rises.
Note that you will need to have
the ESP32 board file installed in your
Arduino IDE to compile the sketch,
and you will also need to ensure
that the correct Board is selected (eg,
"ESP32 Dev Module").
A second sketch is also provided in
the download package, which demonstrates how the temperatures from
eight sensors, identified by fixed ID
strings, can be read and then fed to
the PC as a single line in CSV format,
along with the time and date from the
real-time clock module.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($75)
Loudspeaker thump suppressor
I recently built a 40W subwoofer
amplifier based on an LM3876 chip.
I immediately noticed that when the
amplifier was powered on, it gave a
loud thump, then at power off, I got a
squealing sound from the loudspeaker.
I designed this circuit to stop both
unwanted noises. There are a multitude of similar circuits on the web, and
all Australian electronics magazines
have published suitable designs with
varying degrees of complexity. As I had
minimal space, I required a simple circuit. This single-transistor suppresor is
based on the circuit from the ETI-440
25W audio amplifier from July 1975.
A relay is used to prevent the power on and off transients from reaching
the speaker. A quantity of the AC voltage from the secondary of transformer
T1 is half-wave rectified by diode D1
and applied to a voltage divider, supplying a small bias to the gate of Q1.
This bias takes time to charge up the
470µF capacitor and when it reaches
a voltage threshold, Q1 switches on,
powering the relay.
This delay gives the amplifier time
to settle before the speaker is connected to its output. When power is
siliconchip.com.au
switched off, the relay coil quickly discharges the 100µF capacitor, so after a
slight delay (and before the amplifier
can 'misbehave'), the loudspeaker is
disconnected.
I included a dummy load resistor of
100W on the relay's normally-closed
contacts so that the amplifier is loaded at all times, preventing any upsets
when the relay is off.
Australia’s electronics magazine
As Mosfet Q1 has high input impedance, multi-turn trimpot VR1 can
be used to adjust the on-time delay
between one and nine seconds. LED1
lights up to indicate when the speaker
is connected. The remainder of the circuitry provides the split supply rails
for the amplifier itself.
Andrew Kollosche,
Armidale, NSW. ($65)
October 2019 101
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Micromite LCD
BackPack V3 questions
Thanks for the Micromite BackPack
V3 (August 2019; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11764). I have a RevC PCB, and
I have been trying to work out how
CON8 (for I2C) is configured.
On page 34, you state that the pinout
of CON8 matches the commonly available BMP180/BMP280 and BME280
sensor modules, and that these can
be soldered in directly. I checked the
BMP180 I purchased from Silicon
Chip. The CON8 pinout matches the
4-pin header on my BMP180 module, but the module shows a 5V supply input, while the Micromite PCB
delivers 3.3V. I think CON8 should
have 5V on it.
And what is the difference between
the IRLML2244 Mosfet specified for
Q2, compared to the DMP2215L used
in the V2 BackPack? Did this need to
change because of the new display?
(R. S., Epping, Vic)
• The 5V supply pin on the BMP180
modules is connected to the input of
a 3.3V low-dropout regulator on the
PCB. So if connected to the V3 BackPack board, the 3.3V supply will be
closer to 3.1V (the regulator has a
dropout of around 0.2V). This will not
cause any problems as the BMP180
will work down to 1.8V.
See our article in the December 2017
issue of Silicon Chip on BMP180 modules for more details on that sensor
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10909).
We changed from the DMP2215L
Mosfet to the IRLML2244 only because the former is now obsolete and
becoming difficult to get. They are
interchangeable in this application;
you could use an IRLML2244 on a V2
BackPack or a DMP2215L on the V3
BackPack, if you can get one.
Using BackPack V3 for
earlier projects
I am a long-time reader of Silicon
Chip magazine and its predecessors
and have built several of your analog102
Silicon Chip
based projects. However, I have now
been tempted into the digital realm
by reader Dan Amos’ Touchscreen
Clock Radio design (Circuit Notebook,
June 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Article/11676).
Can I build this design with the
Micromite LCD BackPack V3 (with
a bigger touchscreen) in place of the
V2 BackPack specified for that design,
with the same software?
I have already ordered the FM tuner, amplifier, clock and regulator modules from your Online Shop. I like the
possibility of additional features like
remote control. I would appreciate
your advice on this one before I order the BackPack kit. It sounds like
a cool little project. (O. G., Tauranga,
New Zealand)
• We see no reason why the V3 BackPack with ILI9488 display could not
be made to work for the Touchscreen
Clock Radio, but the screen graphics
sizes and locations are hard-coded into
the BASIC software. So you would
have to go through the program code
and manually change all the graphics
coordinates to make full use of the
larger screen size.
Otherwise, the graphics will be displayed in the top-left corner of the
larger panel, and given that the larger
display has a higher resolution, the
displayed graphics will be considerably smaller.
You will also need to add the
ILI9488 display initialisation routines
to the start of the Touchscreen Clock
Radio program. So the short answer
is yes, you can do it, as long as you’re
happy to tinker with the BASIC code.
We haven’t actually tried it ourselves.
RF Signal Generator
leakage tests
I’m interested in building the RF
Signal Generator (June-July 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/336). I have
spotted what seems to be a problem
in the case top cover drawing. There
is no width shown. Does it have to be
deduced from the bottom cover?
Australia’s electronics magazine
There also seems to be an error in
the PCB pattern PDF download. The
only tracks visible are for the attenuator section.
Finally, did you do any leakage
tests? If the leakage is low enough, an
additional output attenuator would be
a useful accessory for testing sensitivity or alignment of receivers etc. (G. P.,
Narre Warren, Vic)
• Sorry, the case top cover width
(157mm) was accidentally left off the
top cover cutting diagram. A revised
diagram with the missing dimension
added has now been uploaded to our
website.
Some PDF viewers have trouble
displaying multi-layer files. The PCB
pattern file originally uploaded contained some rasterised elements (not
ideal for etching a PCB). So we have
replaced it with a fully vector-based
file. That will probably also fix your
track problem.
No, we have not measured the
leakage of the generator. We do not
have adequate facilities to make that
measurement with any degree of confidence.
The PCB layout is not ideal for low
leakage. Ordinarily, that requires the
PCB to have a better-designed power
supply, plus integrated ground stitching around carefully delineated sections for the attenuators, buffer amplifier, filters and the DDS board. Such a
PCB could then be used with a suitably designed milled aluminium chassis with RF gasketed top and bottom
covers to give much-improved leakage
performance.
During development, Andrew did
consider taking such measures. He
considered using a graphite-impregnated 3D printed enclosure, or conductive plating of a more conventionally printed PLA 3D enclosure. Sadly,
basic tests of these approaches did not
produce good results.
You need lots of metallic plating
and really thick walls to achieve good
shielding, and the graphite filament
was very hard to use and insufficiently conductive to give good shielding.
siliconchip.com.au
As HP/Agilent/Keysight and similar
products clearly demonstrate, you
need solid chunks of cast aluminium
to do a good job.
Consider that the overall design
was aimed at delivering a basic feature set, at a modest cost and with ease
of construction. The sort of shielding
required to minimise leakage complicates construction considerably, and
drives up the cost dramatically.
The lowest-hanging fruit in terms of
reducing leakage would be improved
power supply filtering. Coupled with
that would be the use of relay-driven
attenuators, since the slide switches are a major source of leakage and
cannot easily be shielded. A revised
board and milled chassis could then
be developed together to produce a
suitable result. But we don’t have any
plans to do that.
We suggest that it would be much
easier to build the Signal Generator
as designed, then set it up for a test
and carefully place it in a diecast aluminium box along with a Li-ion battery for power. You can even build a
PCB specifically for this type of test,
with the PCB attenuators permanently
in-circuit and no variable pot attenuator fitted.
The output can then be fed through
a panel-mounted SMA female-female
coaxial adaptor mounted on the diecast box. With high-quality external attenuators, this approach allows you to
reach -120dBm output levels reliably.
It is a bit fiddly when it comes to adjusting frequencies or modulation, but
generally, those tend to be set to one
value for a particular measurement.
This approach is simple and reasonably practical, if time-consuming.
Using Battery Isolator
with LiFePO4 battery
Liked the project article on the
12V Dual Battery Isolator (July 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11699); it
could be what I’m looking for!
I am an amateur radio enthusiast,
and I like to have a VHF/UHF transceiver in the car. With my last car, a
Honda CR-V, I had a simple arrangement with a direct connection from
the rather large starting battery to the
transceiver. I had a short time-off setting on the transceiver to save the battery in case I forgot to switch it off.
However, having ‘downsized’ from
my 12-year-old Honda CR-V to a Nissiliconchip.com.au
san Note, I have run into some problems. Due to its compact size, I intend
to have the transceiver’s main body in
the boot and a remote head in the cab.
My original idea was to also have a
small battery (LiFePO4 or similar) in
the boot by the transceiver, with a highcurrent set of wires to the battery in
the engine bay via some sort of splitcharge/isolation arrangement. But this
car has automatic engine stop/start
with an ‘intelligent’ alternator and
probably a load sensor on the battery
negative to chassis.
I’m concerned that this will not play
well with the transceiver, as it may
not keep the battery fully charged all
the time.
So, as all non-hybrid or EV vehicles
seem to be going this way, do you know
if this project would suit a modern vehicle with this sort of charging system?
There must be lots of us “hams” in
this situation these days! In any case,
many thanks for your help – and keep
up the rather excellent magazine! (R.
P., Bromley, Kent, UK)
• Bruce Boardman responds: I am not
familiar with the Nissan Note specifically; however, many modern vehicles
now have intelligent charging systems
which I think are more designed to
meet the ‘eco’ requirements than to
actually charge the battery.
Having said that, to charge a leadacid starting battery requires around
14.2V, and when the current falls,
around 13.8V or sometimes a bit less.
An auto/eco stop-start vehicle (providing it has a 12V system) would still
need to charge its lead-acid battery adequately. So the battery isolator will
still connect the second battery in the
boot for charging when the main battery voltage is high enough.
My experience with LiFePO4 batteries is that they are packaged with
protection circuitry to protect against
over-current, over-charge and over-discharge, so the battery isolator would
probably charge them OK.
However, note that if the isolator is
switched on when the engine is started, it would be possible to pull significant current from the second battery.
This would only be for a very short
time, as the starting voltage would be
less than 12.6V and the isolator would
quickly switch off.
I recommend that you spend a little
time monitoring your vehicle battery
voltage while driving (but only when
it’s safe to do so; don’t get distracted!).
Australia’s electronics magazine
This should give you an idea of how
the charging is managed and the range
of typical voltages.
Ideally, the battery isolator should
be used with batteries of the same
chemistry, as they will be charged in
parallel. But I think that it will manage OK with a primary lead-acid battery and a secondary LiFePO4 battery,
as long as the latter is stated as being
compatible with lead-acid chargers.
Regarding your concern about a
load sensor on the battery negative
terminal, you could simply run a single positive conductor to the boot and
the negative could go to the vehicle
chassis. The load from the main battery would then be sensed the same
as any other load and not cause a
problem.
Programming PIC32s
with PICkit 2
I recently downloaded the HEX file
for the Bad Vibes Infrasound Snooper
from June 2015 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/8600) off your website. This is
for a PIC32MX170F256B chip. Can I
program this using a PICkit 2 programmer rather than the PICkit 3 or PICkit
4? (P. D., Canterbury, UK)
• You can see a list of PIC chips that
can be programmed by the PICkit 2 at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaux
There are very few PIC32s on that
list, and it doesn’t include the PIC32MX170 series. So you need a newer
PICkit to program that chip.
DSP Active Crossover
with digital audio
Can you tell me whether the DSP
Active Crossover / Parametric Equaliser (May-July 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/335) can be made with a
digital audio input board, rather than
converting analog audio to digital data
using the CS8416 stereo ADC? Turning
a digital audio signal to analog, only
to convert it back to digital is a waste
and affects sound quality.
I’d also like to see a version of this
project to suit three-way systems. (D.
R., Dargaville, New Zealand)
• Phil Prosser replies – the Active
Crossover does not have an asynchronous sample rate converter (ASRC). So
an S/PDIF or TOSLINK digital audio
input signal would be at a different
clock/sample rate compared to that
used by the DSP chip.
October 2019 103
To add an S/PDIF or TOSLINK input
would require a separate digital input
board with an ASRC.
But then the digital signal being
processed would not be identical to
the incoming signal. The only way to
avoid an ASRC is to lock the DSP rate
to the incoming clock rate, which has
a big impact on flexibility (eg, you lose
the ability to have multiple inputs) and
that would require a redesign.
I have tested the distortion performance of the DACs and ADCs in this
project and am really surprised by how
good they are.
The dynamic range of the analog
inputs and outputs is well above the
96dB dynamic range of which 16-bit
digital audio sources like CDs are capable. So practically speaking, I don’t
think the extra work required would
have much benefit, even though there
is something reassuring about going
all-digital.
I will look into the idea of a receiver/ASRC board that is compatible with
the DSP Active Crossover and that can
accept a master clock from the DSP.
I don’t believe that the PIC has the
power to implement a proper ASRC
in software.
Transformer rating for
DSP Active Crossover
I’m building the DSP Active Crossover (siliconchip.com.au/Series/335).
I’ve built the power supply board, and
I want to feed it power from a 12V centre-trapped transformer. I’m not sure
of the current requirements for the circuit and so unsure which transformer
to buy. There are lots available but I
don’t want to go overboard.
Can you tell me the necessary current capacity, please? (J. L., Rossland,
BC, Canada)
• Total current draw from the transformer is less than 400mA, so a transformer around 10-12VA should be easily sufficient, for example, 12V 1A or
24V centre-tapped (12-0-12), 500mA
per winding.
433MHz Range Extender
inductor queries
In the 433MHz Range Extender article on page 51 (May 2019; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11615), it states that
inductor L1 is 17 turns of 1mm enamelled copper wire wound on a 25mm
diameter toroidal core.
104
Silicon Chip
When I wind 17 turns of 1mm copper wire on a Jaycar LO1234 (25 x 15
x 10mm) pot core and test it using
my LC Meter, I get an inductance of
around 260µH, not the 47µH noted in
the circuit diagram on page 51, or in
the TL499A data sheet.
The other option I have come up
with is to fit a pre-wound Jaycar
LF1274 choke (~21.5 x 12 x 12mm)
which has a nominated value of
47µH and tests at 47-50µH. It also fits
the PCB much better than the larger
LO1234 core.
I also note that the pot core mentioned in the parts list on page 49 is
the smaller Jaycar LO1242 (15 x 8 x
6.5mm). This core fits the supplied
PCB quite nicely, but when wound
with 17 turns of 1mm wire, the inductance is only 15.7µH (23µH with 0.8mm
wire). Is the lower 15-23µH inductance
on this smaller core sufficient to run
this project or would the pre-wound
47µH option be better?
Thanks for the interesting articles
and projects. (W. G., Dunedin, New
Zealand)
• The powdered iron core we used
was the LO1242, as mentioned in the
parts list. Its dimensions are 15 x 8 x
6.5mm. The 25 x 15 x 10mm dimensions mentioned in the parts list and
text are incorrect.
The number of windings we specified provided the best results for reliable starting and achieving the desired output voltage from the TL499A
switchmode converter.
So we recommend that you stick
with 17 turns of 1mm wire on the Jaycar LO1242 core, rather than using a
prewound inductor.
Lithium batteries for
boats and caravans
I was at a caravan and camping
show, and there was a vendor with
a whole lot of stuff that included
some 12V wonder batteries based on
“lithium technology” that you were
supposed to be able to connect directly to your 12V vehicle electrical
system – no special charge controller
needed. And they were on special for
only $999!
That probably upset the bloke in
the stand three doors down that was
selling an equally expensive caravan
battery charger.
It stepped up the vehicle voltage and
then controlled it so that the remote
Australia’s electronics magazine
battery got its full charge, regardless of
the charge state of the vehicle’s starting battery.
Being slightly suspicious and knowing that lithium batteries have totally different charging requirements to
a lead-acid automotive battery, I had
the feeling that this gentleman was
selling the 21st-century version of
“snake oil”.
Was I wrong? Is there really a lithium battery that can be installed in a
boat or caravan and will charge successfully and reliably from the same
source as a conventional lead-acid battery? (D. H., Beechwood, NSW)
• Those are almost certainly LiFePO4
rechargeable batteries. We had an article on that technology in June 2013
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/3816) and
subsequently used 12V batteries based
on the technology in our 800W+ Intelligent UPS project (May-July 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/323).
Have you seen Jaycar’s range of LiFePO4 batteries? They have recently expanded it quite significantly. You can
see their range at: http://siliconchip.
com.au/link/aauu
You can treat them like regular leadacid batteries, although they’re best
used in deep-discharge type applications rather than standby applications
where they’re left on float charge for
long periods.
They will handle many deep discharge cycles (more than just about
any lead-acid battery), but there’s a
question over whether they last as long
as AGM batteries if kept fully charged
for long periods.
LiFePO4 cells will charge quite happily at 3.6V, so it’s a useful coincidence
that four such cells in series require
a charging voltage of 14.4V (3.6V ×
4), which is pretty much exactly the
standard charging voltage for a leadacid battery at 25°C.
If your charger has temperature
compensation, it’s best to disable it
for LiFePO4 batteries, as their charging voltage does not change with temperature like lead-acid.
Note that you may still need a ‘booster’ circuit to charge a LiFePO4 auxiliary battery, depending on the distance
from the vehicle battery/alternator and
other factors. But the LiFePO4 batteries
cannot usually be charged as fast as a
large lead-acid battery, so the voltage
drop in the cabling is generally less
of a problem.
Continued page 110
siliconchip.com.au
Vintage Radio
By Ian Batty
Healing M602T transistor
mantel radio
Good performance and long battery life with ‘modern’ 60s styling – a
transistor radio that’s at home in the kitchen.
I picked up this transistor set at an
HRSA auction a while ago. It’s an Australian set, compact and easy to use.
I recently described Healing’s fine
valve portable, the 404B (April 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11533).
So we can now directly compare that
to the six-transistor M602T from the
same manufacturer.
The M602T was released in 1960
and followed on from the designs that
had matured by the late 1950s. It uses
six alloyed-junction transistors: three
in the RF/IF section and three in the
audio stages. This puts it in the second generation of transistor sets. The
short-lived first generation used inferior grown-junction transistors.
So as well as comparing this set to
the valve radios that were designed
just a few years before it, we can also
compare it to the transistor sets which
came soon after (ignoring the few hybrids which bridged the gap).
siliconchip.com.au
The M602T’s construction uses a design that was passing out of favour at
the time: a punched and pressed steel
chassis using tag strips, transistors
mounted in grommets, and point-topoint wiring. Its mechanical construction is complicated, with three metal
sub-chassis sections.
The plastic cabinet is quite generous, putting it in the ‘small mantel/
portable’ class. The chassis, although
not especially compact, leaves plenty
of room for its 5-inch Rola 5F speaker
and the long-lasting type 276 battery.
It’s a conventional six-transistor set,
using the same cabinet as mains-powered valve models 410E & 411E.
Being a larger set than the 404B, the
M602T has a more relaxed and usable
control layout. The large dial features
station call signs, a reminder of Saturday afternoon footy and Top Forty Hit
Parades. The slow-motion dial makes
tuning easy.
Australia’s electronics magazine
From top to bottom, the knobs are
the on/off switch, volume control and
tone control. Separating the on/off
and volume functions reduces wear
and extends the life of the volume
pot, as it can be left in the same position most of the time. I wish the controls were labelled; maybe you’re just
meant to know.
Compared to the all-valve 404B,
the M602T is a pleasure to work on,
though its complicated construction
sees the tuning gang buried between
the front and back chassis plates,
and the trimmer capacitors partly
obscured, so adjusting it is a bit difficult.
As the IF transformers are all singletuned, the slugs are easily accessible
from the rear.
On my set, they appeared to use wax
to prevent accidental movement, so I
strongly advise against using metaltipped alignment tools. If you need
October 2019 105
to get a slug to move, try using a hair
dryer/heat gun to warm the can and
soften the wax.
All minor components, including
the transistors, are easily accessible for
measurements or replacement.
Circuit details
The circuit of the M602T is shown
above. Note that some sets may have
alternative transistor types to those
shown, especially the ones which were
made in Japan.
The circuit begins with the usual
self-oscillating converter, TR1. This is
a 2N219 or a 2SA15, roughly equivalent to an OC45 rather than the higherperforming OC44 or similar that we’re
used to seeing in this stage. The converter uses emitter injection, so it’s
easy to inject a signal directly into the
base for testing.
The antenna circuit has a ferrite
rod with a separate primary winding
to allow an external antenna connection to be used.
As is usual for converters, the baseemitter forward bias of some 50mV
is lower than the usual 150~200mV
for germanium transistors. This is because converters need to operate in
a non-linear mode close to Class-B,
so that they can create the necessary
sum-and-difference signals from the
incoming radio station and the local
oscillator (LO).
LO transformer L2 has two windings, with the secondary tapped to
106
Silicon Chip
supply feedback to the low-impedance emitter.
As the tuning gang has identical sections, padder C5 (430pF) reduces the
LO section’s capacitance swing to give
a ratio of roughly 4:1 as the set tunes
over the broadcast band.
The converter feeds first intermediate frequency (IF) transformer T1. This
has a tapped, tuned primary and untapped, untuned secondary.
The first IF amplifier transistor, TR2,
is either a 2N218 or a 2SA12, both
slightly lower-performing versions
of the 2N219/2SA15. As the stage is
gain-controlled, bias resistor R5 has a
relatively high value of 82kW. This allows the AGC signal from diode D2 to
reduce TR2’s gain with increasing signal strength. This is filtered by 6.8kW
resistor R11 and 10µF capacitor C51 to
remove the audio component.
TR2 feeds second IF transformer T2,
also with a tapped, tuned primary and
untapped, untuned secondary. The
collector is fed from the supply via a
2.7kW resistor, R7. AGC extension diode D1 has its cathode connected to
R7 and its anode to the primary of first
IF transformer T1.
Compared to
some of the
other radios of
the early 1960s,
the M602T used
point-to-point
wiring, providing
a compact but
messy layout.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The redrawn circuit diagram for
the Healing M602T. Some models
of this set used different transistors,
most of them made by Hitachi, for the Japanese market. Additionally, the values
of C8 (330nF), C11 (47nF) & C16 (56pF) differ, likely for similar reasons.
In normal operation, there’s a voltage drop of about 1.8V across R7. Since
the converter’s collector sits at about
7.5V, D1 will have a reverse-bias of
around 1.3V. This means that D1 is
cut off with weak signals so it will
have no effect.
As the AGC takes over, and TR2’s
collector current falls, TR2’s DC collector voltage rises. This brings D1’s
cathode voltage closer to 7.5V, so D1
will start to conduct with strong signals. As it does so, it shunts current
from the converter’s collector, further
reducing the set’s gain and giving improved AGC action.
The 2N216~219 series are all alloyed-junction RF transistors, exhibiting collector-base capacitances of
around 9pF. So both IF amplifiers need
neutralisation, with 4.7pF capacitor
C15 providing this for TR2.
Second IF amplifier TR3 uses another 2N218/2SA12 with fixed bias.
The usual emitter bypass capacitor to
ground seems to be missing, but this
stage has its base bypassed back to
the emitter terminal via 10nF capacitor C11, and its collector supply is
bypassed to the emitter via 47nF capacitor C12.
This configuration is most often
used in VHF circuits, as it is more
effective than running everything to
ground. In this circuit, it also saves
one capacitor – the emitter bypass capacitor, such as C9 used by the first IF
amplifier TR2.
siliconchip.com.au
TR3 feeds third IF transformer T3’s
tuned, tapped primary, and T3’s untuned, untapped secondary feeds demodulator diode D2, another GEX34/
OA70. D2’s audio output, filtered by
C13, goes to volume pot R51 and also
provides the AGC signal, as described
earlier.
Note that the AGC filter capacitor,
C51, is an electrolytic type. Electrolytics are not recommended for RF/
IF bypassing, so if you have an M602T
suffering from oscillation or some
other strange RF/IF fault, C51 may be
the culprit.
The signal from the volume control is coupled to the base of audio
driver TR4, a 2N408. TR4 has conventional combination bias, and its
collector drives the primary of output transformer T4. The tone control
pot, R52, and 47nF top cut capacitor
C17 connect between TR4’s collector
and ground.
As R52’s resistance is reduced, C17
progressively shunts more of the high
audio frequencies, giving more and
more top-cut and producing a more
‘mellow’ audio tone.
T4’s secondary provides the pushpull drive to transistors TR5/6, both
2N270s. These have higher power
ratings than the OC72, but less than
the later OC74/AC128 types from
Philips/Mullard. TR5/6 operate in
Class-B, with around 180mV of forward bias.
Don’t be confused by the positive
voltage readings in the emitter/base
sections of the circuit; I’ve measured
relative to chassis ground, and since
R16 is connected between the battery
and chassis, the chassis sits about
one volt below the battery’s positive
terminal.
TR5/6 get their bias from the parallel combination of R19/R41 – again, a
slightly confusing connection, but it
works perfectly. Thermistor R41 compensates for ambient temperature, reducing the forward bias for TR5/6 at
higher temperatures, where their baseemitter junction voltages fall. This
provides a relatively constant collector current, protecting from thermal
runaway.
Quirky decoupling
Class-B output stages draw low
L1
C52/55
C2
T4
C3
C1a/b
From the top of the M602T, you can see two large red 100µF electrolytic
capacitors, used for filtering the supply, at the far right. There are a few other
electros in the circuit, which may cause oscillation problems if they degrade.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 107
Test results
C3
C2
reduction
drive
T1
Variable trimmer capacitor C3, used to calibrate the oscillator, is shown at
centre left. To its right is trimmer capacitor C2 for the antenna. Again to the
right of C2 is the planetary reduction drive for the dial.
quiescent (idling) currents – it’s the
main reason for using them, despite
their complexity compared to Class-A
stages. But Class-B operation results
in considerably larger swings in supply current, increasing substantially
on output peaks.
These current peaks can impress the
output signal on the supply voltage,
making the entire set prone to audio
feedback as the output signal finds its
way back to driving stages. The simple
remedy is to use decoupling, often just
a simple resistor-capacitor filter, in the
supply line going to the low-level RF/
IF/audio section.
But the M602T applies the full battery negative supply to all stages. The
decoupling circuit is placed in the
positive supply, which in this case, is
ground. It’s odd but effective: output
transistors TR5/6 do get the full battery supply, but the battery positive’s
connection to chassis and set Earth is
via 180W resistor R16.
The battery itself (and thus the
output stage) is bypassed by 100µF
capacitor C55, and the driver/RF/IF
stage supply is bypassed by 100µF
capacitor C52.
The circuit office appears to have
numbered ceramic and paper capacitors consecutively from C1, but started
the electrolytics from C51.
The output stage’s thermistor is renumbered as R41, and the volume pot
as R51, despite there being about 20
108
Silicon Chip
fixed resistors in the circuit.
Cleaning up my set
The set I acquired was in fair cosmetic condition, the only damage being two melted areas on the top of the
case and a missing “Transistor” badge
on the decorative metal panel across
the top of the front panel.
The tuning was very stiff. Inspection
showed that the planetary reduction
drive was stuck tight, so I removed,
dismantled, cleaned and re-assembled
it. It was then time to power up the radio, which still had all of its original
components.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, it was
dead. The culprit, an oxidised power
switch, responded to contact cleaner
and a good number of on-off-on-off
cycles.
Having resurrected the set, it was
time to check its alignment. It seemed
to come up well in the IF department,
and responded well at the low end of
the broadcast band around 600kHz.
But it got progressively more and more
‘deaf’ towards the top end.
I checked all the voltages but found
nothing wrong. So I completely dismantled it and washed the ‘dust of
ages’ from the tuning gang and the
rest of the set with isopropyl alcohol.
Once it dried, I checked it again, but
still found it relatively poor at pulling in stations at the upper end of the
frequency range.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Under my test conditions and for
the standard 50mW output, the M602T
needs around 175µV/m at 600kHz,
300µV/m at 1000kHz and 700µV/m
at 1400kHz. Signal-to-noise ratios exceeded 20dB in each case. That’s a
significant drop-off in sensitivity. Signal injection figures recorded on the
diagram also reflect this loss of sensitivity at the high end, and direct injections to the converter base confirm
these figures.
This seemed unlikely to be a problem with the converter, a case of the
mythical “tired transistor”. Just to be
sure, I replaced it with a new old stock
(NOS) OC44, with no improvement.
You may know that conversion gain
varies significantly with LO injection,
so that there is a fairly narrow span of
injection voltage for best performance.
The LO voltage falls by more than 35%
from 600kHz to 1400kHz, so perhaps
this explains the weak top-end performance.
You may recall Kriesler’s Mini 4147 handheld radio (December 2013;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/5633)
using a germanium diode across the
LO primary to help stabilise oscillator output. Perhaps that’s what this
set needs.
RF bandwidth is around ±1.6kHz at
-3dB; at -60dB, it’s ±33kHz. AGC action is excellent: a 40dB increase at the
input gave an output rise of just 6dB.
This set was excellent on strong signals, needing some 500mV/m before
reaching overload.
Audio response is 150~4600Hz from
volume control to speaker; from antenna to speaker it’s 135~2000Hz. Fully
on, the tone control slashes the upper
-3dB point to just 450Hz.
This set can give 400mW of output
at clipping, although that figure is a
bit misleading. At 10mW, Total harmonic distortion (THD) is just 2.5%,
but it’s 7% at the test figure of 50mW,
rising to the usual cutoff value of 10%
at only 120mW output.
I suspect that mismatched output
transistors are the reason for this, but
my junk box failed to disclose any
2N270s. Rather than substitute, I’ll
leave this set all-original until I can
get proper replacements.
At half the nominal battery voltage,
the output clips at 120mW, which is
still quite loud and enough to usefully
squeeze those last few electrons from
the battery.
siliconchip.com.au
The connections on the back of the set, next to the carry handle, are for an external antenna and ground.
Healing 404B vs M602T
The M602T weighs in at around
2.7kg, with the valve-based 404B a
lightweight at just 1.95kg. The M602T
is also a fair bit larger all around, giving
a volume of 5700cm3 versus 1470cm3.
The M602T is about as sensitive as
the 404B at the low end, but nowhere
near as good at 1400kHz, needing some
four times as much signal for the same
audio quality.
The M602T’s audio performance is
superior, giving over four times the
maximum output of the 404B, with
a better frequency response due to a
larger output transformer and speaker.
But I do like the 404B’s visual design: it looks smart and perky with
hints of Art Deco (despite being made
roughly 20 years after that movement
was popular). It stands out in a way
that the more stolid M602T simply
does not.
This all makes sense in context.
The 404B was aimed at the burgeoning market of the late 1940s, with
each manufacturer spruiking the newfound convenience of “camera case”,
all-miniature portables and hoping
their attractive design would stand out
from the pack. The M602T, with its external antenna and Earth connections,
is clearly aimed at the more everyday
“mantel market”.
Which is the better radio? At moderate volumes, there’s not a lot of difference. The M602T’s transistor design,
siliconchip.com.au
with its type 276 battery, gives over 100
hours of use, while the 404B’s single
filament supply cell runs out in less
than five hours.
Given the 404B’s total power consumption at over 900mW compared
to the M602T’s which is less than onetenth of that, one of the transistor’s
principal advantages over the valve
is confirmed: greatly reduced power
consumption when doing much the
same job.
And there’s a clue in the M602T’s
rear cover. It’s held in place with
screws. That suggests that you’re not
expected to remove it very often to replace the battery.
Special handling
The four knobs (tuning, on/off, volume and tone) are push-fits. Mine were
very hard to remove, so I used some
dial cord looped about the shaft and
re-looped to give four drawstrings. Be
aware that the metal rims on the knobs
are thin, and any attempt to lever under them will cause damage.
Output transistors TR5/6 are mounted in rubber grommets, effectively insulating them and providing even less
heatsinking effect than wiring them
onto tag strips and leaving the cases
unobstructed, in free air.
If this set is delivering its full output of 400mW for any substantial
time, that may cause significant heating of Q5/6, possibly leading to their
destruction.
So if testing for maximum output
with a continuous sinewave signal,
be sure to keep the test brief.
You can find additional information
on this set in the links below:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aau2
siliconchip.com.au/link/aau3
siliconchip.com.au/link/aau4
SC
A size comparison of the Healing M602T and previously described 404B.
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 109
Ask Silicon Chip
continued from page 104
Programmable Logic
Controllers
Has Silicon Chip published any articles on programmable logic controllers (PLCs) in the last ten years or so?
(M. W., New Zealand)
• We haven’t published any articles
on PLCs recently, but we suggest that
you contact Ocean Controls by email
(info<at>oceancontrols.com.au) or by
phone (+61 3 9708 2390) as this is
right up their alley.
You can view their online catalog of
PLCs at: https://oceancontrols.com.au/
Controllers.html
DAB+ Radio headphone
noise problem
I have finished assembling your
DAB+/FM/AM Radio (January-March
2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/330).
The articles make fascinating reading, particularly the January article
explaining the design.
I bought a circuit board with IC1
and its associated components (in the
“box”) already soldered. Even so, as
my first project with a lot of SMD components, I approached it with more
than a little trepidation. I have not included the digital audio components
(IC7, IC2 etc) in my project.
It works perfectly via the speakers.
The tactile screen is OK, and so is the
(Jaycar) remote control. But there is a
loud background noise when listening
through headphones. Apart from that,
I am more than happy with the set.
I also notice a very loud humming
through the loudspeakers when I power the setup, whether the headphones
are plugged in or not. The latter stops
after the line “Reset and Power up”
is printed out on the serial terminal.
The Explore 100 detects the presence of the phone jack, so transistor
Q5 must be OK. Other components that
are related to the headphone socket,
but not the loudspeakers, are IC5a/d,
Q1-4 and D1-2. Could the annoying
hum come from any of these?
A subsidiary remark relates to the
headphone/speaker volume levels.
They don’t seem to be memorised. I
haven’t looked at the MMBasic code
yet, but maybe the solution to memorising the headphone/speaker volume
levels lies there? Thanks in advance.
(D. P., Noumea, New Caledonia)
• We published errata on this pro110
Silicon Chip
ject in the April & May 2019 issues,
which you can view via our website
(go to the Articles → Notes & Errata
menu and click on 2019). However,
we don’t think these are related to
your problems.
Some constructors have found transistors Q1-Q4 are running too hot, and
they have had to change the four 2.2kW
resistors to the left of these transistors
to higher values. It’s worth checking
the temperature of those transistors,
but that is probably not responsible
for your headphone noise either. We
suspect a bad solder joint on one of the
passive components around IC5, or on
one or more pins of IC5 itself.
We had a severe audio noise problem in one of our prototypes which
turned out to be a bad solder joint on
a resistor, specifically, the 2.2kW resistor which connects to pin 6 of IC5b.
Solder had adhered to the end of the
resistor but had not flowed properly
onto the pad below. Adding some flux
paste and re-heating that joint until it
reflowed properly fixed the problem.
It’s interesting that your speaker outputs are mostly unaffected. That suggests that the problem is more likely to
be in the headphone amplifier stages
built around IC5a/d, but it’s hard to be
sure. Regardless, those are part of the
same IC, so you will need to check that
area of the board anyway. Also check
the passive components to the left of
Q1-Q4, as well as D1, D2 and the components near CON5.
You are right that the speaker/headphone volumes are not saved automatically. This needs to be done manually
from the Config page. We’ve done it this
way to avoid writing to the flash excessively. The “Save settings” option saves
the current volume settings so that they
are applied at the next power-up.
Are Currawong
voltages too high?
I recently finished building your
Currawong Stereo Valve Amp (November 2014 - January 2015; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/277). I’m following the
testing procedure in the January 2015
issue and have found some voltages
which vary from those mentioned.
The expected 12.3V DC at pins 4 & 5
of the 9-pin valve socket is 15.3V and
the HT rail measures 360V DC rather
than the expected 320V DC. I tested
the toroidal transformer (single unit as
described in the October 2016 issue),
Australia’s electronics magazine
and it has 237-240V AC at its input,
and 131-133V AC plus 2 x 14.2V AC at
its outputs. These readings are above
the marked voltages of 115V, 12.66V
and 2 x 6.3V (in series).
Are these voltages within the acceptable limits? Are the voltages from the
toroidal transformer acceptable? (S. S.,
Labrador, Qld)
• All the voltages readings will be
higher when you don’t have the valves
plugged in. However, we think the new
all-in-one transformer also produces
higher voltages than the two separate
transformers we used in the original
prototype. Also, your mains voltage
is a little on the high side; it’s closer
to the nominal 230V AC at our office.
We aren’t overly concerned about
your voltage readings. We suggest that
you plug in the valves in and re-check
them. Assuming they come down at
least a bit, your amplifier should be
OK. Ideally, the 9-pin heater voltages
should drop below 13.5V (within 10%
of 12.3V). 360V HT is not a problem,
but that’s likely to drop a bit too when
all the valves are plugged in.
Low-cost spectrum
analyser wanted
I am after a cost-effective spectrum
analyser. I need one that can operate
around the 900MHz mark. Your last
article on one was 1978. Is this worth
a revisit as a DIY kit? (S. T., Crystal
Brook, SA)
• Silicon Chip’s first issue was on
November 1987, so perhaps you are
thinking of a 1978 Electronics Australia article. Regardless, We have reviewed several low-cost spectrum analysers since then, such as the:
1. Signal Hound (October 2014;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/8046)
2. Gratten GA4063 (November 2013;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/5461)
3. Triarchy USB Mini Spectrum
Analyser (February 2014; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/6129)
4. Soundlabs’ RF Explorer (May
2013; siliconchip.com.au/Article/3792)
We’re testing out a cheap USB spectrum analyser at the moment, but its
performance is so poor that we may
not even bother publishing a review.
We suggest you don’t buy the absolute
cheapest one you can find, as you may
be disappointed in its performance!
All of the analysers mentioned above
are fine, and mostly, they are not too
expensive.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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LOOKING FOR:
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b) Copy of a book once sold by Jaycar
entitled “High Power Loud Speaker
Enclosure Design & construction”’;
catalogue number BC1166. Will pay $50
(inc. postage) to the first with a pristine
copy, ie, little use; slight dog ears OK.
Contact Melanie (on behalf of inquirer
on 02 8832 3100)
PCB PRODUCTION
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
October 2019 111
Coming up in Silicon Chip
How Satellite Navigation (GNSS) Works
Dr David Maddison explains how satellite navigation systems work, including
GPS (USA), GLONASS (Russia), Galileo (EU), BeiDou (China), NavIC (India)
and QZSS (Japan).
Super-9 Analog Stereo FM Radio
This radio provides mono or stereo FM reception with excellent sound quality.
It’s quite sensitive and built mostly from discrete components, with a handful
of ICs. It’s quite easy to build and suitable for beginners, especially those
interested in learning how an FM radio receiver works.
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................87-90
Ampec Technologies................. 69
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona..................................... IBC
Hare & Forbes....................... OBC
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Three I/O Expander modules
Running out of microcontroller pins? These low-cost modules make it a breeze
to add more functions to your existing micro. In some cases, they won’t take
up any more pins on your existing micro and can add dozens more, including
pins with PWM capability.
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
Toyota Synergy Hybrid Drive
LEDsales................................. 111
Toyota produces arguably the best hybrid drive system, able to move a vehicle
under petrol or electric power (or both) with outstanding fuel economy. It provides
regenerative braking and the ability to charge the battery while moving or
stationary. We take a look at how this clever system works.
Microchip Technology.................. 5
Universal 6-24V Battery Charge Controller
PCB Designs........................... 111
This Battery Charge Controller turns a ‘dumb’ battery charger into a smart
charger, suitable for use with various 6V, 12V or 24V batteries, including leadacid, gel-cell, Li-ion and LiFePO4 (lithium-ion phosphate). It has three preset
charging profiles and three adjustable profiles with one to three-stage charging.
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
The November 2019 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, October
24th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between October
22nd and November 8th.
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEACH PCB Assembly............... 9
Mouser Electronics...................... 7
Ocean Controls........................... 6
Premier Batteries...................... 11
Silicon Chip Shop...............40-41
Silicon Chip Subscriptions....... 97
The Loudspeaker Kit.com........... 8
Tronixlabs................................ 111
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wagner Electronics................... 68
Notes & Errata
Six-decade Resistor Sorter, Circuit Notebook, September 2019: pin 8 of IC1-IC3 must be connected to the anode of LED7,
not the cathode, for the circuit to work correctly.
Gamer’s Simulation Seat (High-current H-bridge), September 2019: the 74LS08 IC in the H-bridge should be replaced
with a 74HC08 as the LS-series chip has an insufficiently high output voltage to drive the IRFZ44N Mosfets properly. Ideally,
those Mosfets should also be changed to a logic-level equivalent such as the CSD18534KCS (Silicon Chip Online Shop Cat
SC4177) to ensure they switch on fully with a 5V supply.
Voice Modulator for Sound Effects, Circuit Notebook, August 2019: the diodes in the bottom half of both bridges should
be reversed in polarity to form ‘rings’. Also, the 180kW resistor should be changed to 150kW.
Vintage Radio (National AKQ), July 2019: in the circuit diagram on page 95, both batteries are shown with the wrong polarity. This has been fixed in the online version of the magazine.
433MHz Data Range Extender, May 2019: the dimensions of the Jaycar LO1242 powdered-iron core are 15 x 8 x 6.5mm, not
25 x 15 x 10mm as mentioned in the article.
High power H-bridge uses discrete Mosfets, Circuit Notebook, November 2017: the same comment about the 74LS08
chip applies as mentioned above for the Gamer’s Simulation Seat.
RGB to Component Video Converter, October 2004: the divider resistors at output pins 7 of IC1b and IC2b should be changed
to 820W (upper) and 270W (lower), resulting in a gain of A = 4 to these stages, in order to achieve the required 2(R-Y) and 2(BY) signals at these pins. Note that a separate erratum was published for this project in February 2005.
112
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