This is only a preview of the September 2019 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 58 of the 128 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Build your own Gamer’s Seat with Four DoF":
Items relevant to "A new Micromite: the sensational Explore-28":
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Contents
Vol.32, No.9 September 2019
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
16 History of Cyber Espionage and Cyber Weapons, Part 1
The spooks have been using some ingenious methods to spy on each other over
the years. Here we look at just some of those methods and the equipment they
used – by Dr David Maddison
42 ElectroneX 2019 – Melbourne, September 11 & 12
Australia’s only dedicated electronics design and assembly expo is on this month
at Melbourne’s CEC. Register online for free admission at electronex.com.au
69 Restoring a Macintosh Classic II
First released in 1991, the Classic II (also called a Performa 200) was a real
challenge to bring back to life nearly 30 years later! – by Bruce Rayne
They go to amazing lengths to spy
on each other: the USS Jimmy Carter is reputed to be able to
tap into undersea cables! –
Page 16
92 Cypress “system on a chip” revisited
A follow-up to our October 2018 article on the Cypress CY8CKIT-049-42XX PSoC
– this time featuring the more powerful CY8CKIT-059 board – by Dennis Smith
Constructional Projects
26 Build your own Gamer’s Seat with Four DoF
If you’re into computer gaming, you’ll know that nothing beats a seat that echoes
your screen movements. But they’re very expensive to buy! This D-I-Y version is
driven by a Micromite and has four degrees of freedom – by Gianni Pallotti
52 A new Micromite: the sensational Explore-28
With an inbuilt USB socket, you can simply plug the Micromite Explore-28 into your PC
and start programming. And it’s tiny: just 40mm x 19mm x 8mm and features 19 I/O
pins (of which 10 are capable of analog input) – by Geoff Graham
Micromite
controlled D-I-Y
Gamer’s Chair offers four
degrees of freedom. Bring your
on-screen games to life – Page 26
New Micromite Explore-28:
even more features
including an
on-board USB
programming socket
– Page 52
74 Six-way Stereo Audio Input Selector with remote control
Sometimes one or two inputs just aren’t enough! This new audio selector can
handle up to six stereo inputs which can be selected by push button or remote
control. And it even offers remotely controlled volume! – by John Clarke
100 Ultrabrite LED Bicycle Light
You must have noticed some of those really bright white LED lamps on some
of today’s pushbikes. Here’s one you can build yourself and $ave money. It has
brightness settings, flash settings and much more – by Daniel Doyle
Need more audio inputs? How
about six? Remote controlled or
push button and the volume control
is remote controlled too! – Page 74
Your Favourite Columns
86 Serviceman’s Log
Giving an old companion its voice back – by Dave Thompson
108 Circuit Notebook
(1) High frequency adjustable LED strobe
(2) Top octave generator using AVR micro
(3) Formula 1 starting lights for slot cars
(4) Six-decade resistor sorter
(5) Phone call speech time warning
Don’t look this bike light in the eye
– it’s blinding! You can choose the
way you mount it or use it. Page 100
114 Vintage Radio
Kriesler Farm Radio, model 31-2 – by Assoc. Professor Graham Parslow
Everything Else!
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
siliconchip.com.au
98 Product Showcase
120 SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
122
127
128
128
Ask SILICON CHIP
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes and Errata
Don’t miss the
2019 ElectroneX
design and
assembly expo in Melbourne this
month. Exhibitor’s listing on Page 42.
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Bao Smith, B.Sc
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 626 922 870. ABN 20
880 526 923. All material is copyright ©. No part of this publication
may be reproduced without the written
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ISSN 1030-2662
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Printing and Distribution:
Editorial Viewpoint
128 Pages: our largest issue ever!
We have a huge issue this month with 128 pages.
There are a few reasons for this.
The first is to celebrate a successful twelve months
as the new publisher of SILICON CHIP. My intention
was for the transition to be seamless, keeping up
the same high quality of content and service to our
readers. From your many comments, I believe we’ve
achieved that.
I haven’t made any major changes to the magazine since Leo retired.
It has been around for over thirty years and so must have been doing
something right. As the old saying goes, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. We
have made a few minor stylistic tweaks, just to freshen up the look and
improve consistency here and there. But that’s it.
I am happy with the quality and variety of our content (and I believe
our readers are too). The only way that I thought we could improve the
magazine was to run more of the same great content. And that’s what
we’ve been doing.
It is obviously more work to produce these larger issues, and it costs a
bit more too. But I feel the result makes it worthwhile. I hope you have
been enjoying the extra content.
As I wrote in response to a letter in the Mailbag section last month,
despite the extra expense involved, the magazine price has not changed,
and I will keep it the same as long as possible. The intention is to give
you, the reader, the best possible value for your money.
Another main reason for the larger issue this month is that it coincides
with this year’s ElectroneX exhibition in Melbourne and we have plenty
of information on what you can expect to see if you attend.
If you’re a Melbournite, or can spare the time to fly down for a day or
two, it’s well worth attending. You will meet lots of interesting people,
see some great technology and you will probably learn something too. I
wish I could go, but publishing a magazine is time-consuming. We are
represented by Glyn Smith, our Advertising Sales Manager, on stand
D18. Call in and say hello! Next year, ElectroneX will be back in Sydney;
hopefully, I will be there in person.
The popular HRSA Vintage RadioFest is also on this month in Canberra,
and we have an article on an interesting ‘farm radio’ in this issue. We also
have some substantial Vintage Radio features coming up later this year.
The final reason for having so many pages in this issue is the monster
article on building a four degree-of-freedom gamer’s seat by Gianni
Pallotti, starting on page 26. Normally we would run such an enormous
article over two or even more months, but there’s a lot to this impressive
design, and it would be difficult to split up.
You need to be confident in your mechanical construction skills to take
on that project, especially welding. But the result is a very impressive
piece of equipment. Even if you don’t think you have the ability to build
it, it’s still interesting to read about how he designed and made it. So
when I saw what he’d done, I realised that we had to publish it.
Dr David Maddison’s article on Cyber Espionage is quite fascinating, but
I won’t go into any details about it here; you will have to read it and see!
So I hope you enjoy this bumper issue. While we can’t promise to do
this very often, I can promise to make SILICON CHIP the most interesting,
best value for money electronics magazine not just here in Australia and
New Zealand but anywhere in the world.
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
GPS module compatibility problems
I recently bought a pair of Arduinocompatible GPS receivers from AliExpress but found that none of the standard Arduino libraries could communicate with them. I tried AdafruitGPS,
NeoGPS, TinyGPS and TinyGPS++.
I decided to look for myself at the
NMEA data being produced by these
modules. I found that instead of
the usual strings, starting with prefixes like “$GPGGA”, “$GPGSA”,
“$GPRMC” and so on, I was seeing
strings that started with “$GNGGA”,
“$GNGSA”, “$GNRMC” and even
some starting with “$GPGST” and
“$GLGSV”.
These different prefixes presumably
explain why the usual libraries could
not understand the NMEA data. But
why are the prefixes on these modules
different? I did some research and it
seems like this could soon be a widespread problem.
The explanation is in a document
titled “NMEA Revealed”, which you
can read at: https://gpsd.gitlab.io/gpsd/
NMEA.html#_talker_ids
Here it explains that the “GP” prefix
is the ‘talker ID’ for a GPS receiver. But
“GN” is the talker ID for a mixed GPS
and GLONASS receiver, while “GL”
is GLONASS-specific. More receivers these days support GLONASS, the
Russian system (this will be explained
in some detail in the November issue –
Editor). So you can expect more modules to use a GN talker ID, confusing
many pieces of software.
So really, these days, software needs
to be designed to expect a different
talker ID (or it can simply be ignored).
Note that there are other talker IDs
listed on that web page which modules may produce, so merely looking
for “GP”, “GN” or “GL” may not be
sufficient.
I’ve since found that there is a version of the TinyGPS library which has
been updated to support GLONASS
and mixed receivers. See: https://
github.com/florind/TinyGPS
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India.
The moon landing was inspirational
In October 1957, the world was
shocked by the launch of the Russian
Sputnik, the world’s first artificial satellite. It made quite an impression on
me at 11 years old. The following year,
the USA rushed to launch Explorer I,
and over the next few years, satellite
launches became more frequent.
By 1962, there was sufficient ballast
space on an American rocket to piggyback a small amateur radio transmitter
known as OSCAR (Orbiting Satellite
Carrying Amateur Radio). OSCAR orbited the world every 90 minutes or so,
and broadcast HI in Morse Code (.... ..)
on the 2m amateur band (144MHz).
My father was a radio ham, and we
followed OSCAR as it passed overhead, using Doppler shift to track its
trajectory.
At about this time, there was great
excitement in the ham radio community about the possibility of communicating by bouncing signals off the
moon. The first amateur to achieve
this goal was an American, Sam Harris.
We visited him at Rhododendron
Swamp in Massachusetts USA and
saw the 30-foot (9m) dish in his back
yard. My father thought it a great lark.
He started to build a similar dish back
Visit us online at
www.wiltronics.com.au
4
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Design, Develop, Manufacture with the latest Solutions!
Showcasing new innovations in Electronics and Advanced Manufacturing
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6
Silicon Chip
Quality
ISO 9001
in Australia, but perhaps due to my
mother’s objections, it was never completed. When we moved house, we
left a partly constructed 30-foot dish
behind. I wonder what the new owners thought.
Inspired and taught by my father, I
sat and passed the Theory and Regulations exams for the ham radio licence
at the age of 15. You had to be 16 to
get the licence. Imagine my surprise
and delight when I woke up on July
21, 1962, to find my licence amongst
my birthday presents!
My father had been able to persuade
the Postmaster General’s department
(PMG) to issue it on the strict understanding that he would not give it to
me until I turned 16. I doubt that this
would be allowed nowadays.
Fast forward to 1969, when I was a
fourth-year medical student at Monash
University. On July 21, we were in the
middle of a Pathology practical class.
The laboratory had closed-circuit TV
monitors connected to the demonstrator’s microscope, but on that day they
were switched over to TV, and the class
watched Neil Armstrong set foot on
the moon in real-time.
The Americans celebrate the occasion on July 20, but Australia is a day
ahead. The moon landing on July 21,
1969 was seven years to the day after I had obtained my amateur radio
licence.
I still find it hard to imagine that
the moon landing was accomplished
with so little computing power. At the
time, the Monash medical course had
an “elective” period of eight weeks
where we could do just about whatever we liked. Most students spent
this time doing clinical work, but I
chose to spend it learning to program
the PDP-8 computer.
It was state-of-the-art with 4096 12bit words of core memory. It occupied
a small room. Each bit was stored in
a tiny doughnut-shaped magnet about
half a millimetre in diameter, assembled by hand under a microscope,
with two or three fine wires threaded through each doughnut. A typical
memory card might have held a few
hundred bits.
The computers on the lunar landing craft were similar in construction
and capacity.
Very soon after the moon landing,
core memories became obsolete, replaced by silicon chips containing
millions of transistors, each of which
Australia’s electronics magazine
is now the size of about 1000 atoms.
Magnetic core technology became just
a memory!
Today, the computer on my desk has
a memory of eight gigabytes, where a
byte is eight bits. However, over time,
the old memory boards morphed from
junk into collectables. My wife was
puzzled when a parcel arrived from
Russia. It was a memory board like
those on the lunar module, and probably still contains stored data if we
had a way to read it.
James Goding,
Emeritus Professor,
Monash University (Vic).
Response: the progress in technology
since the late 60s certainly is amazing.
The Apollo Guidance Computer ran at
2.048MHz with 4KB RAM and 36KB
ROM. It consumed 55W and weighed
32kg. A PIC16F18877 has the same
amount of RAM, more flash (56KB),
consumes 1.2mW (yes, milliwatts!) at
4MHz, is under one gram and costs
less than $2!
Update on software-defined radios
I recently came across an operating system package called Skywave.
It reminded me of Jim Rowe’s series
of articles on SDR in October and November 2013 (SiDRADIO; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/130) and November
2017 (Banggood SDR kit; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10879).
Skywave is a free, open-source
Linux-based operating system that
contains probably every freely available SDR software package. You can
download it from skywavelinux.com
or buy a USB drive with the OS already installed and ready to boot from
osdisc.com
It can be dual booted with Windows
or used to bring an old loved, but no
longer viable, laptop back to life and
made useful again.
I tested it out by invoking “Ham Radio” in the Applications Menu, then
Web SDR and Open Web RX Servers.
This took me to a page with Online
SDR Servers where I clicked on University of Twente Netherlands (Wideband ADC).
This took me to the website http://
websdr.ewi.utwente.nl:8901/ which
describes a “homebuilt SDR Board”
using a Spartan XC3S500E field-programmable gate array (FPGA). For anyone interested in SDRs this is an awesome website outlining the development and assembly of this SDR.
siliconchip.com.au
Dev Tools Workbench 205X275.pdf
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 7
The LogBox 3G is an IoT
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and access to data
SKU: NOD-011
Price: $699.95 ea + GST
It was the first ‘WebSDR’ ever, going
live in 2008. You might want to consider basing an article on this design.
By the way, the $30 SDR kit from
Banggood Jim wrote about back in
2017 can now be purchased fully-assembled for $35, including postage.
I’d also like to mention that your article on Radiation and Electronics in
the July 2019 issue was very revealing.
Jacob Westerhoff,
Seaford Rise, SA.
Temperature and Humidity Sensor
Dad enjoyed reading Silicon Chip
Helping to put you in Control
LogBox Connect 3G
Ideal for building automation
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temperature and humidity
sensor with 4 to 20 mA
outputs and is loop powered.
Adjustment of output ranges
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DC Earth Fault Relay
A Din rail mounted current
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Split core current transducer
Split core hall effect AC
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Programmable Logic Relay
The TECO SG2 Series PLR
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3 Digit Large Display
Large three digit universal process indicator
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Raw & Waste Water Level Sensor
2 wire 4 to 20 mA liquid
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Suitable for raw and waste
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For Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9708 2390
oceancontrols.com.au
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
8
Silicon Chip
My father, David Costello, was a
regular Silicon Chip reader. Sadly, he
passed away recently.
Electronics fascinated my dad
from an early age, and your marvellous magazine gave him many hours
of enjoyable reading over a very long
time. Just as importantly, it provided
a great many more hours figuring out
the next project, visiting Jaycar for supplies, and then sitting with a soldering
iron, drill or screwdriver in hand till
it was finished.
Thank you for your significant contribution to my dad’s enjoyment in life
and keep up the excellent work.
Maree Costello,
Rowville, Vic.
Apollo 11 TV broadcasts
Over the week around the 50th anniversary of the moon landing, there have
been many documentaries of varying
quality, particularly regarding Australia. I happened to be at ABC Sydney,
where I watched the landing in colour,
six years before Australia commenced
colour TV broadcasting. The USA had
NTSC colour TV at the time.
I found the following article on the
topic of the Apollo 11 TV broadcasts,
which I believe is authoritative: www.
hq.nasa.gov/alsj/ApolloTV-Acrobat5.
pdf But based on my television engineering training at the ABC, I can comment further.
The TV camera used on the lunar
lander produced 262.5 image lines
with another 57 black lines. They were
scanned in progressive order, not interlaced. No domestic TVs could display
these images, so a slow-scan converter
was required to convert the image to
the USA’s NTSC system, which has 480
interlaced image lines and 45 black
lines, yielding 262.5 lines per field.
The lunar camera produced 10
frames/second, but NTSC has 59.94
fields/second. So the images were
Australia’s electronics magazine
stored and each camera frame was
shown six times with each alternate
field delayed by half a line.
Unfortunately, there was no way
to synchronise the lines of the USA
TV system back to the camera on the
moon. As a result, the lunar images
were shown on a long-persistence
cathode ray tube, with a camera pointed at it. The long persistence phosphor on the CRT was used to increase
the brightness and also to smooth the
jerky motion caused by the very low
10 frames/second scan rate.
The picture quality was reduced because of the camera pointed at a picture tube; it smeared movement and
the grey-scale was distorted.
The Field Sequential Colour camera contained a rotating red, green
and blue filter wheel. ABC Sydney
had a Slow Scan Converter, so a technician connected the outputs of the
red, green and blue stores to the only
colour monitor on the station. So, we
were able to watch the feed in colour.
The colour was good except when
there was motion and the red, green
and blue images would separate. Apparently, the original recordings were
destroyed, so it is not possible to recover the colour images.
The output of the Slow Scan Converter was unsuitable for Australian
TV, so a second scan converter containing a CRT/camera was used to convert the signal to our standard of 575
interlaced image lines, with 50 black
lines at 25 frames/second. That made
the picture quality even worse.
The moon landing video was distributed to the world from Honeysuckle
Creek, which is in the Tidbinbilla Valley, ACT. The CSIRO’s Parkes NSW
radio telescope was capable of reception too, and Carnarvon, WA was used
for telemetry.
Alan Hughes,
Hamersley WA.
Jaycar’s Maker hub is near Sydney TAFE
The August article on Jaycar’s Maker Hub neglected to mention Sydney
(Ultimo) TAFE, located behind UTS.
Ultimo TAFE offers a wide range of
electro-technology courses covering
electronics, security and electrical
work from Certificate II, III, IV, Diploma and Advanced Diploma Courses.
When I first attended Ultimo TAFE
in the mid-1980s, I remember walking
past an electronics store every day (possibly called Radio Parts), in what is now
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 9
part of McDonald’s Broadway. Hopefully, the success of Jaycar’s second
Sydney city shop will encourage other
specialist electronics stores to open.
Geoffrey Lee,
Ultimo, NSW.
Comment: the store was called Radio
Despatch Service (RDS); managed by
Norm Edge and Geoff Wood.
Getting out of electronic manufacturing
I am a retired electronic engineer. I
spent six years in the RAAF as an air
radio/radar tech. I also worked as a
supervising radio tech on Macquarie
Island. On my return in 1964, I applied for a position with Fairchild
Semiconductor.
The company was set up in an office block in South Yarra, Victoria. After a couple of years, they built a factory in the eastern suburbs at Kilsyth.
I worked there for a few years and was
then head-hunted by Anodeon Semiconductor as a senior product engineer. I eventually left Anodeon to start
my own manufacturing company and
obtained several contracts with government departments.
We manufactured PCBs and did
general electronics manufacturing of
both of our products and also for those
departments. We manufactured many
PCBs for companies such as AWA,
HMV and Radio Corp.
Some of our main products were solar heating controllers for swimming
pools and spas. Some years later, I sold
the business but continued working
as chief engineer. I produced several
new designs for pool solar controllers
and heat-pump controllers before the
owner decided I was too expensive and
replaced me with a young engineer.
Consequently, I set up another small
business working from home, which
continued up until last year. My problem now is that I have a considerable
stock of components, including blank
PCBs and fully assembled circuit
boards that I would like to dispose of.
I cannot bring myself to throw them
away, and I would like to at least get
something for the assembled PCBs.
All the controllers I have ever designed have been inspected and approved to AS/NZS 3136 by Electrical
Safety Victoria and full documentation
is available. I can supply all manufacturing documentation, software, circuit diagrams, enclosure details etc.
The PCBs were designed using Protel and the PCB files can be supplied.
10
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Most components were purchased
through Altronics and the enclosures
came from NAW Controls. I am wondering if any of your readers would
be interested in what I have to offer.
Don Myles,
Chirnside Park, Vic.
Comment: if any readers are interested
in contacting Don to discuss acquiring
his designs and hardware, email us
and we’ll forward it on to him.
Another RCA AR-812 radio restoration
I just got my copy of the August issue to find an article on restoring an
RCA AR-812 radio (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11782). Just the previous
day, I’d watched a YouTube video
from Glasslinger on the very same radio. Quite a coincidence! The video
can be found at: https://youtu.be/UnzVbkcQWCE
Wenlock Burton (VK3YWB),
via email.
Contributor received a design award
I have just heard the most amazing story about Ian Robertson of Warriewood, author of the Analog Audio/Video Modulator (March 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11007).
Editor’s note: not to be confused
with Ian Robertson of Engadine who is
a prolific Circuit Notebook contributor.
Ian has been awarded a 2019 Good
Design Award for his InstallMate
– see https://good-design.org/gooddesign-index/
Australia’s annual Good Design
Awards program is one of the oldest
and most prestigious international
design awards in the world, promoting excellence in design and innovation since 1958. It is recognised by the
World Design Organization (WDO) as
Australia’s peak international design
endorsement program.
Ian is 70 years old and employed by
CommBox. Ian and his late wife Jenny
started CommBox in the 1970s. Upon
her passing, he handed the company
over to his daughter, Therese Halls,
who is the current owner of CommBox.
This is a great story of achievement in
the twilight of your career and of family companies surviving. So I thought
it might interest you and your readers.
Oliver Goodman,
via email.
Strange problem with Class-D amplifier
After reading the article on the “El
Cheapo” Class-D amplifier modules
siliconchip.com.au
by Allan Linton-Smith (May 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11614), I
purchased an XD172700 Class-D amplifier board. I then set about modifying the output inductors as described
in that article, to change their values
to the correct 10µH.
I did this by removing many of the
windings and adjusting the remaining
windings to be evenly spaced around
the toroidal cores. The odd thing is
that after I did this, at high volume,
both right-hand coils (looking from the
back of the board) heated up badly to
the point of going black and smelling
bad. I switched it off quickly when I
noticed that!
I have carefully checked the continuity of the board tracks to make sure
I didn’t short them to ground when I
re-soldered the modified coils back
in place, and it was all good. The lefthand coils of each output channel did
not heat up at all.
After this, I decided to make entirely new air-cored coils, as the article
said they should ideally be air-cored.
I used an online calculator (http://
electronbunker.ca/eb/InductanceCalcML.html) and based on the available
physical space, decided to make the
coils 19mm in diameter with a 7mm
inner diameter. I used 0.95mm diameter wire.
This requires six rows of six turns
each, which when hand-wound on
a custom former, fits exactly in that
space. The online calculator gave a
value of 11.38µH, and I was delighted to find my finished coils measured
11.1µH, 11.2µH, 11.3µH and 11.4µH.
With a 24V DC supply and the volume set loud enough for the neighbours to enjoy, after several minutes,
I could not feel any warmth in the
coils at all.
A considerable amount of effort
went into making the former and coils,
and this may not be for everyone, but
I want the amplifier for the long term.
Geoff Stone,
Eaton, WA.
Self-contained TDR wanted
Congratulations on the continuing
excellence in the projects presented
by Silicon Chip magazine.
I was browsing through some back
issues of Silicon Chip and came across
the Micromite-based DDS IF Align-
ment project from September 2017
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10799),
which plotted the intermediate frequency response of a radio receiver on the Micromite LCD BackPack
touchscreen.
This gave me the idea of a similar
device to detect cable faults, like Jim
Rowe’s Time Domain Reflectometry
dongle design from the December
2014 issue (siliconchip.com.au/Article/8121), except without needing an
external scope.
I feel the Micromite and touchscreen
combination could be configured to
provide such a facility. This would
also be much more convenient to use
as you wouldn’t need two separate
units, including an expensive DSO
which you may need to lug around
with you in the field.
William Spedding,
Lake Cathie, NSW.
Response: that is an excellent idea,
although it isn’t as easy as it sounds.
To see the signal reflection and locate
a cable fault accurately, you need to
be able to measure the timing of the
‘echo’ to a resolution of around 1ns.
That means you need an effective
S
E e
M lec e us
St elb tro a
an ou ne t
d A rn x
15 e
sampling rate of around 1GSa/second; far beyond what
even a very fast micro can achieve with its internal analogto-digital converter (ADC).
Don’t expect to see a project just yet, but we are formulating some ideas that may allow us to achieve the required
performance with a Micromite.
Support for idea of RPi-based media player
I was interested to read Raff Lerro’s letter in the March
2019 issue, suggesting a project based around a Raspberry
Pi for playing various media types, supporting improved
power on/off, a remote control etc. The author points to
his use of MPEG4 for capturing DVDs for playback, and
FLAC for CD audio. His choice of a lossless format here is
interesting, rather than high bit rate MP3...
Personally, while I haven’t given much thought to the
software side (Raff suggests Kodi, but there are other options like Plex or Emby), I am interested in the notion of
combining the digital processing capability of Pi with a
high-quality DAC, possibly your CLASSiC DAC (FebruaryMay 2013; siliconchip.com.au/Series/63).
I’d like to suggest modularising a high-quality DAC,
which can then be used in several contexts (such as the
stand-alone device already described). That could then be
used as part of a Pi-based media player, as suggested by Raff.
Of course, the “all-singing, all-dancing” player might
need its own touchscreen, plus suitable outputs for both
audio and video to feed external amplifiers, televisions etc.
Geoff Best,
Wamboin, NSW.
Response: it’s an interesting idea but would take a lot of development work. Off-the-shelf high-quality DAC solutions
are already available for the Raspberry Pi, but we haven’t
tried them. While MP3 may be OK for listening in the car
or with earbuds when out and about, its sound quality isn’t
good enough for home hifi systems. FLAC is the way to go
if you have a good amp and speakers.
Comments on August issue
Concerning your August Editorial Viewpoint, I applaud
the move to make the Micromite one of your standard platforms. Obviously, not everyone will want to use a Micromite, but I imagine that the Arduino and the Raspberry Pi
platforms will not be ignored.
However, there is one thing that puzzles me, and that
is the lack of projects and articles that use micros of other
manufacturers. Why is that?
Regarding the letter from John Evans in the Mailbag section (page 13), I have to agree with him. I was hoping to
get FTTN with an upgraded phone line, but instead, I have
been connected to the old Foxtel cable (HFC).
The university got rid of the multidrop coax years ago for
various reasons, including congestion. Now my area has
it, and I fear we will suffer the same congestion problems.
I really hope that Telstra recommended to the clowns who
are building the NBN that the first priority should be the
updating of the inter-city and the exchanges’ internet links.
The Quantum-Dot Cellular Automata article in the August issue (siliconchip.com.au/Article/11774) was news to
me. I am familiar with cellular automata and A-Life, but this
took me by surprise. I wonder if anything will come of it.
Only recently, Dr Maddison presented an article concerning the effects of radiation on microelectronics and
14
Silicon Chip
particularly very small scale devices (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/11697), and here there is a hope of creating devices
utilising single electrons. I think the researchers had better include significant error correction mechanisms before
they proceed further.
In the Mailbag section of the June 2019 edition, Kelvin Jones suggested reticulated low voltage in homes and
Nicholas Vinen as part of his reply stated that the performance of battery power vacuum cleaners was inferior to
mains powered appliances. I think the correct description
of the “vacuum” of the battery appliances is a gentle breeze.
I bought a couple of hand-held battery-powered machines, one for myself and one for a present. I realised very
quickly that as supplied, they are almost useless. However,
the purchase of a long-hair paintbrush changed that. When
cleaning dust from circuit boards, the brush frees the dust,
and there is sufficient “suction” for the battery-powered
machine to remove it. It works very well, and I hope it is
of use to others.
I got this idea from the Super Hero robotic floor cleaner. It has a rotating cylinder brush and two contra-rotating
brushes with one on each side of the front of the machine.
Effectively, it is a sweeping machine with a fan that directs the dust and dirt to a collection area and on a plain
wooden floor and tiles; it works well.
I think it is a bit harsh to condemn the battery-powered
machines based on their “suction” ability only. I know that
my mains-powered machine cannot remove some types
of dirt by suction alone. However, it has a rotating brush
head, and that makes the difference.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
Nicholas responds: regarding the micros used in our projects, there are dozens of different kinds available and
many are excellent. But it’s impractical for us to have the
required programming hardware and software to suit them
all, and we think the same is true of our readers.
We try to stick mainly to PICs so that our readers only
need a PICkit or similar to build our projects. Also, it would
take a lot of extra time to learn the quirks of each different platform, its compilers, libraries etc. It’s much easier
to stick to the one ‘ecosystem’.
There are hundreds of different PICs, suitable for just
about any application, and the prices are quite good too.
So if we have to pick one primary micro family, Microchip’s
products (which now include AVRs) are a good choice.
I agree that noise and interference are likely to be the
biggest challenge facing Quantum-Dot Cellular Automata
techology at useful scales. Time will tell whether it can be
made to work in the real world or not.
Our cordless vacuum works quite well on some surfaces
as it has a rotating brush built into the head. But you can’t
use that brush on all surfaces, and then it leaves dirt behind. That’s true even on the “max” power setting, which
drains the battery in about five minutes!
It’s especially bad where there are nooks and crannies;
a mains-powered vacuum is usually powerful enough to
suck particles across the gap between the nozzle and the
dirty surface. But the battery-powered vacuum can’t.
Ultimately, the battery-powered vacuum is too convenient to ignore, but that can’t make up for the lack of power in all situations. Sometimes I still have to drag out the
extension cord...
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Shocking tales of quality control failure
Nicholas Vinen’s Editorial Viewpoint in the February
issue regarding dodgy and counterfeit products stirred
up some bad memories of my experiences in quality control. I think the label “quality control” is often misunderstood and is used as a panacea to make us feel safe when
we buy a product. It doesn’t always ensure quality products, however.
My first bad experience occurred when I was a quality
control supervisor with a large, well-known international
company. One of our products was an oral medicinal tablet which was sealed in foil. It was well known that the
tablets had a shelf life of 12 months, after which time the
ingress of moisture through the foil changed the active ingredient to an inert one.
There was consternation on the production floor one day
when a special line was set up to process several pallets of
this product which were out of date. The warehouse had
not rotated the stock, and these pallets had remained unsold, until it was realised that they could not be sold because they were past their “use by date”.
The production line was instructed to remove the foils
from their boxes and insert them into boxes with that day’s
date. I was unhappy with this situation and told my boss
that this was blatantly wrong. I was told that we had to do
this to keep making a profit. I left that company soon after
as it was weighing on my conscience.
My second traumatic experience as a quality audit supervisor was with a company which manufactured rolls
of laminated sheeting which was glued together using
two-part epoxy glue. One night, someone forgot to add the
hardener to the adhesive tank, and as the hours rolled by,
kilometres of laminate were produced with the adhesive/
hardener ratio progressively going beyond specification.
Eventually, the quality control department notified production of the weak bond strength from the sample taken
at the end of each roll, but it was only when the bonding
was well out of tolerance that the process was stopped and
the problem rectified.
To cut a long story short, the company owner came to the
factory late one night and ordered that these faulty rolls be
sent out; the good to be blended in with the bad. The owner was gambling that the customers’ quality control would
find the rejects and that they would be within the allowable limit which was in our supply contract.
My most recent quality experience disaster was at a
company which manufactured industrial benchtop digital
weighing scales. It was a small company with an excellent
overseas reputation for good product quality. We had an
excellent testing process, which included “soak testing”
every unit under power at 40°C for 14 days.
But our smugness was shattered one day when one of
our units failed in the USA. This was followed shortly after by another failure, then another. We eventually found
out that the large capacitors in the power supply were leaking their electrolyte.
We purchased our capacitors from a German company
which produced high-quality components, and we notified
them of the failures, although the damage to our reputation
had already been done.
It seems that the rubber seal at the end of the capacitors
had failed due to premature deterioration. The rubber sheeting for the seals was supplied by a manufacturer in Japan
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who produced a high-quality product.
But the rubber had been contaminated in some far, far
away rubber plantation. It was difficult for us to foresee
this disaster.
I remember another small company which manufactured
domestic fans some years ago. When these fans came off
the production line, they were tested for correct operation.
When they failed the tests, some of the units were not repaired; they were merely sold to customers in remote areas, knowing that these customers would find it difficult
to return the item for a refund!
The problem of the defects was solved; the customers
sent the units to landfill.
If rejected products cannot be recycled, they may not
be disposed of properly. It costs money to dispose of rejects. Even if they are thrown away, sometimes people dig
them up and then sell them! Then there is human error;
reject stickers can fall off. Employees become dissatisfied
and sabotage their production work. We all have “I don’t
care days”.
It would be great if perfect units could be produced every time, but this does not happen. It would be excellent if
every component and circuit could be placed on a ‘bed of
nails’ to be fully tested before sending it out, but for reasons of cost and time, this does not happen.
Tony Farrell,
Kingscliff, NSW.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 15
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
CYBER ESPIONAGE
AND CYBER WEAPONS
Part 1 – espionage methods over the years – by Dr David Maddison
S
Part 1: pre-existing electronic hardware vulnerabilities and creating vulnerabilities
pying on one’s enemies (or even one’s friends!) or sabotaging infrastructure is one of humanity’s oldest activities, but electronics vastly expanded the possible
ways of doing so.
In this article, we’ll describe some fascinating espionage
methods that can be (and have been) used to take advantage
of hidden flaws in everyday equipment, allowing spies to get
their hands on all sorts of secret information.
Naturally, many such techniques are secret, but there are
still many that have been described in the open literature,
that we explain below.
The variety of technologies and methods of concealment
of electronic espionage is immense, so we can only survey
a portion of those, and give the most interesting examples.
The number of ways people have devised to spy on each
other is seemingly only limited by the imagination.
We’ve come up with so many interesting electronic espionage techniques that this article will concentrate on those
which exploit vulnerabilities in electronics and hardware,
and techniques for creating vulnerabilities which can then
be exploited later.
Next month, we’ll have a follow-up article covering other electronic spying techniques, which we don’t have room
for in this article.
Unintentional “leakage”
Many of the techniques described below can be classified
as a “side-channel attack”.
This involves the unintentional leakage of information
from a system, such as RF or optical emanations from the
16
Silicon Chip
device, which are an unwanted side effect of its regular operation.
We present these in chronological order, to give an idea
of the history of such exploits, which goes back further than
you might imagine. We’ll start with pre-existing hardware
vulnerabilities (side channel attacks).
TEMPEST and teleprinters
During the second world war, it was noticed that the plain
text from encrypted teleprinter communications could be recovered some distance away.
This is because of the significant EMI generated when the
relays within the units switched on and off. Fig.1 shows one
of the affected units, a Bell 131-B2.
To work around this problem, commanders were instructed to maintain a secure zone for 33m around the encryption
device. There were technical fixes put in place to reduce the
EMI leakage, such as adding shielding, power supply filtering (to prevent signals travelling back along supply lines)
and the use of lower-power relays which generated lower
amplitude spikes when switching.
But these efforts were not entirely successful and only reduced the distance over which information could be gathered, rather than eliminating the problem altogether.
Another problem was that while reduced power operation reduced leakage, it also limited how far apart the connected equipment could be, or how many teleprinters could
be driven at once.
The problem wasn’t just limited to teleprinters, either.
Signals from some electronic typewriters in use after WWII,
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the commercially-available Orion 2.4
HX Non-Linear Junction Detector.
Fig.1(left) : a Bell 131B2 mixer, which
was used to encrypt or decrypt
teleprinter signals using relay logic.
Its electronic emissions could be
picked up some distance away.
including in embassies and other secure locations, could be
picked up and decoded from as far away as 1km!
Due to the scope of this problem, in the early 1960s, the
USA produced a set of guidelines under the codename TEMPEST, intended to prevent enemies from gaining access to
classified information due to these types of emissions.
In some locations, such as the US embassy in Moscow,
equipment was installed in Faraday cages to significantly
reduce electronic emissions. Apparently, staff did not like
working inside them and referred to them as “meat lockers”.
For more information, see the Wikipedia article on TEMPEST at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqp
Interestingly, many of the TEMPEST guidelines are still
applicable today, and some of the attacks described below
would not be possible if the vulnerable systems complied
with those standards.
Non-linear junction detectors
A non-linear junction detector is a device which was
once used to find bugs (Fig.2). These work even if the bug
is powered off. It uses the principle that a non-linear junction such as a p-n junction, as found in a transistor or diode, gives a characteristic response when illuminated with
radio-frequency energy.
This allows out-of-place electronic devices to be detected,
eg, those hidden in walls or decorations.
Such detectors can be easily defeated, however, by a loadmatching device called an isolator, and the US CIA has done
so with their listening devices since 1968.
Black Crow
In 1970, during the Vietnam war, a phased-array antenna
system called Black Crow (AN/ASD-5) was fitted to C-130
Spectre gunships (cargo aircraft modified for ground attack
duties). This could detect the electromagnetic emissions of
vehicle ignition systems up to 16km away (see Figs.3 & 4).
This system was initially designed for picking up submerged submarines, as a form of Magnetic Anomaly Detector, but some bright spark (no pun intended) realised that
it could also be used by aircraft to pick up the emissions
Fig.3 (left): a Vietnam War-era AC-130A “Spectre” gunship, one of the types outfitted with the Black Crow system. Note the
side-facing radome near the front of the aircraft, along with the barrels of multiple cannons aimed in the same direction.
Fig.4 (right): the sensor operator station in a modern AC-130 aircraft, using cameras, radars and other equipment to locate
enemy targets.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 17
Fig.5: an image recovered from the LCD screen of a
440CDX laptop 10m away, through three plasterboard
walls (M.G. Kuhn, University of Cambridge Computer
Laboratory, 2004). The image is not perfect but is certainly
readable.
from the ignition systems of enemy trucks travelling along
the Ho Chi Minh trail, much of which was obscured by jungle.
Once detected by the system, there was no need to spot
the trucks visually for engagement; the output of the Black
Crow system was able to control the gunship targeting computers directly, to aim cannons at vehicles even though they
could not be seen through the dense jungle canopy.
It could also pick up radio transmitters on the ground,
such as those used by Forward Air Controllers, who relay
targeting information to aircraft.
CRT and LCD monitors (RF emissions)
While CRT monitors are rarely used today, in 1985, Dutch
researcher Wim van Eck demonstrated in open literature that
simple and cheap equipment could be used to reproduce
images from remote computer monitors.
This was done by picking up their RF emissions, an activity then thought to be restricted to major government espionage operations.
The technique came to be known as “Van Eck phreaking”.
It can also be applied to LCD monitors, including those used
in laptop computers – see Fig.5. You can read the original
paper at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqq
Today, Van Eck phreaking can be done with cheap software-defined radios (SDRs) with appropriate software, such
as Martin Marinov’s TempestSDR – see Fig.6.
If you want to try this, we suggest you test it on your
own computers, as using such software without the target’s
permission or knowledge is likely to be illegal and could
get you in trouble.
For more information on TempestSDR, see the video titled
“TempestSDR - Remotely Eavesdropping on Monitors via Unintentionally Radiated RF” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqr
TV licence vans (UK)
Some regard them as a hoax, but the information above
about Van Eck Phreaking, and the fact that radar detector
detectors exist (note, that is not a misprint!), suggests that it
may be possible for vans to drive around and detect nearby
operating CRT television sets.
However, the number of prosecutions achieved for op18
Silicon Chip
Fig.6: a screen grab of the TempestSDR software receiving
a checkerboard pattern from a remote computer
(background). In the foreground window, part of the
received image is shown, along with some signal spectra.
erating a TV without a license in the UK was quite small.
Blinking lights
In 2002, it was discovered by researchers J. Loughry and
David Umphress that the LED status lights of modems and
other data communications equipment could reveal the data
being carried by the device. No installation of malware on
connected computers was required to take advantage of
this, and the authors suggested design changes to prevent
such data leakage.
This was found to even be possible with lights observed
from afar with a telescope.
Decoding diffuse reflections from monitors
Also in 2002, M. Kuhn at the University of Cambridge
demonstrated the reconstruction of an image from a CRT
monitor screen, using only the diffuse reflection from objects such as a wall or furniture.
This was shown to be possible even through curtains,
blinds or frosted glass.
It was determined that the contents of a CRT screen, even
with small fonts, could be established by the use of a 300mm
astronomical telescope from 60m away, observing the CRT
reflection from an object.
Having acquired the image data, mathematical image
processing was used to recover the image from the screen
– see Figs.7 & 8.
This technique is known as “optical time-domain eavesdropping”. It takes advantage of the fact that although a CRT
screen appears to have a steady image, only a tiny portion
of the screen is actually illuminated at any given time, and
the ‘persistence of vision’ of our eyes causes the illusion of
an image covering the whole screen.
So a simple light sensor can be used to pick up the changes in brightness off diffuse objects on a short time scale.
It is then possible to determine the horizontal and vertical
blanking intervals based on breaks in that illumination, to
simulate the movement of the beam across the CRT screen,
then apply the same brightness variations to reconstruct that
image without needing to observe it.
While modern LCD and OLED screens are updated in a
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.7: a test image, displayed on a monitor which was not
directly observable (eg, facing a wall, with the observer
able to see the wall but not the monitor).
Fig.8: the image recovered after applying mathematical
techniques to the diffuse reflection from the wall. Again, it’s
not perfect but is largely legible.
similar scanning manner to a CRT, because the image on the
screen is steady, this technique is unlikely to work.
network to recognise keypresses on a keyboard.
The resulting accuracy was as good as one incorrect guess
per 40 keystrokes, and the method worked at distances of
up to 15m.
Cloning key fobs
In 2008, it was demonstrated that the
KeeLoq proprietary code-hopping
cipher used in many garage and car
door opening systems could be
compromised.
The cryptographic keys used
by a particular manufacturer
could be recovered by measuring the power consumption of a device (in
possession) such as a key fob during the encryption process.
Once the cipher for a specific manufacturer is recovered,
it is then possible to intercept two transmissions from a target key fob from as far away as 100m, and the device can
be cloned. Furthermore, it is then possible to lock out the
legitimate user of the cloned device.
Some keyfobs, including older ones used for opening cars
and garage doors, can be cloned without resorting to such
clever tactics. Those which do not use rolling codes, just
a basic handshake, are subject to a simple ‘replay attack’.
In this case, recording and replaying their RF emissions
may be enough to gain access. This has been demonstrated
using an SDR (software-defined radio).
Breaking systems that use a weak rolling code requires a
bit more refinement (but not much); with many such systems, recording the RF associated with two subsequent access attempts (or possibly even just one) can be enough to
establish the code being used and allow the attacker to later
produce the next code in the sequence, opening the door.
The NSA ANT Catalog
The NSA ANT Catalog is like a mail-order catalog of
electronic espionage equipment available from the US National Security Agency. ANT is their Advanced Network
Technology division. It was produced in 2008 and reflects
Leaking acoustic and electromagnetic
radiation from keyboards
Computer keyboards can leak RF radiation which can be
used to decode what is being typed on them. In 2008, researchers Vuagnoux and Pasini (and many before) demonstrated the successful reading of multiple keyboard types
including PS/2, USB, wireless and laptop boards, with 95%
recovery of keystrokes up to 20m away, and even through
walls.
Acoustic emanations from keyboards can also be used to
decode what is being typed, due to imperceptible differences
in the sounds of individual keystrokes. In 2004, researchers Asonov and Agrawal used this method to train a neural
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: just one of the dozens of pages from the NSA ANT
Catalog, which lists the electronic espionage tools available
to friendly government agencies. This page shows a tiny
device which can be hidden in a computer monitor cable,
allowing the screen contents to be remotely read when
illuminated by a radar.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 19
Fig.10: researchers demonstrated the ability to read text off a smartphone screen from reflections off a variety of objects,
including the user’s eyeballs!
items available to the NSA, US citizens and the Five Eyes
intelligence alliance (which includes Australia). A sample
page is shown in Fig.9.
It was released to the public by the German magazine
Der Spiegel from an unknown source in 2013. A copy of
the catalog can be seen here: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqs
Most of the devices involve exploits against networked
computer systems or mobile phones, and many are targeted
toward the equipment of specific manufacturers.
Highlights from the catalog include:
• COTTONMOUTH, a USB “hardware implant” that provides
a wireless bridge into a target network with the ability
to load software on target PCs
• NIGHTSTAND, which exploits weaknesses of the wireless 802.11 protocol to access wireless networks from
as far away as 13km
Remote observation of vibrating objects to
recover audio
This technique, developed by researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), is known as “passive
recovery of sound from video” or the “visual microphone”.
It involves visual observation of an object in a room under surveillance, and recovery of audio (including speech)
from vibrations of that object, caused by sound in the room
(see Fig.11).
Objects that this technique has shown to be successfully
used with include a chip packet, aluminium foil, the surface of a container of water and plant leaves.
These observations were made with a high-speed video
camera at 2000-6000 frames per second (FPS), but effective
• SURLYSPAWN, a device to provide a signal return encoded with information from low data rate devices such
as keyboards when illuminated with radar
• GOPHERSET, a software implant for GSM phone SIM
cards which sends phone book, SMS and call logs from
a target phone to a user-defined phone number via SMS
Reflections from eyeballs, sunglasses etc
In 2013, researchers Yi Xu et al demonstrated how text
on a smartphone screen could be read by observing screen
reflections on objects such as 1) sunglasses and a toaster, 2)
via reflection from eyeball, 3) reflection from sunglasses, 4)
viewing from a long distance, plus they could decode typed
words using finger motion analysis – see Fig.10.
You can see some videos on this subject, and original
publication, at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqt
20
Silicon Chip
Fig.11: “the visual microphone”; recovery of audio from
video observation of a chip packet. In this case, the audio
being recovered is a pure tone rendition of “Mary had a
Little Lamb”.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
results were also obtained with a consumer-grade digital
SLR (DSLR) camera operating at 60 FPS.
Even though the vibrations are not visible to the naked
eye, sub-pixel variations representing soundwaves can be
extracted with appropriate data processing.
Observations were performed at a distance of up to four
metres, but longer distances are thought to be possible with
appropriate optics.
For more information, see the video titled “The Visual
Microphone: Passive Recovery of Sound from Video” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqu
Remote mobile phone microphone activation
In surveillance terminology, a “roving bug” or “hot mic”
(microphone) refers to the microphone in a mobile phone
which has been activated as a listening device, whether a
phone call is in progress or not, or even if the phone appears to be turned off.
This technique is employed by intelligence agencies using
a variety of methods, including the use of a suite of smartphone hacking tools known as “Smurf Suite” for Android
and iPhone devices. This was developed by the US NSA,
as revealed by The Guardian newspaper in January 2014.
It’s possible to listen to the microphone on a phone that is
apparently turned off because some phones still have some
circuitry running even when off, and they can only be truly deactivated by removing the battery. See the video titled
“Edward Snowden: ‘Smartphones can be taken over’ - BBC
News” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqv
Encryption key recovery using PITA
In 2015, researchers from the Laboratory for Experimental
Information Security at Tel Aviv University in Israel made
a demonstration at a cryptographic conference, to show the
vulnerability of computer systems to RF sniffing.
They called their invention PITA, which stands for Portable Instrument for Trace Acquisition.
They non-invasively recovered cryptographic keys from a
laptop 50cm away in only a few seconds, by picking up its RF
emissions with cheap and readily-available equipment, including an SDR (software defined radio) dongle – see Fig.12.
They alerted GnuPG, the open source organisation that
supplies the widely used encryption software called PGP
(“pretty good privacy”; not “great privacy”, apparently),
which was the subject of the demonstrated attack. This
software was subsequently modified to prevent this attack,
although other cryptographic systems could be vulnerable
to similar schemes.
For more details on PITA, see: siliconchip.com.au/link/
aaqw
Spying on vehicle occupants
Many modern cars have computer systems that connect
to their manufacturers via a mobile phone network, to report performance parameters, upgrade software or for emergency assistance.
As an example, in the United States, GM’s OnStar technology (siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqx) can activate an in-car
microphone to see if the occupants need help after a crash.
It can also be used to remotely unlock a car if the keys have
been locked inside.
If the car has been stolen, this microphone can also be
used to assist the police in arresting the perpetrators.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.12: the PITA device (Portable Instrument for Trace
Acquisition), shown on top of a possible disguise for the
device.
The US FBI (Federal Bureau of Investigation) and other agencies realised that this could also be used to spy on
people; however, a 2003 court ruling established that they
were not allowed to do so. In 2015, a hacker demonstrated
they could remotely locate, unlock and start a vehicle, but
the company modified the system to prevent this happening in future.
Mobile phone tracking
Mobile phones users can be tracked by methods including:
1) With the cooperation of the service provider, it is possible to determine which base station a handset is closest to
and the adjacent ones and, with knowledge of the power
levels and antenna patterns, a location fix to within about
50m can be obtained in urban areas.
2) A handset can broadcast its location, determined either
by a GPS receiver or by knowledge of signal strengths and
triangulation from nearby towers.
3) The location of a handset can be established by nearby
WiFi networks. The phone requires software to do this,
which is widely available.
4) Specific Apps on the phone can send one’s location to others (eg, one called Life360). This can be useful for knowing when family members will get home or coordinating
meetings, but of course, there is also the possibility that
malicious Apps could do the same.
It is also possible to use these location methods to find an
injured person, as happened recently in Australia, where a
car ran off the side of the road and the driver did not know
where they were. They rang emergency services using a
mobile phone, who were then able to use the phone to locate them.
Note that almost all telecommunications and Internet
activity is recorded by or for the government in Australia,
most recently under the Telecommunications (Interception
and Access) Amendment (Data Retention) Act 2015. For details on this, see the following web page: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aaqy
The author recalls how the introduction of the GSM network in Australia, finally activated in 1993, was significantly
delayed until Australian Government agencies were given
the means to access communications going through that network (this was widely reported at the time).
Signal Amplification Relay Attack (SARA)
This attack works against anything with proximity key-
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 21
tenna can be used for picking up higher frequency signals.
This attack only works for certain cars (but there are millions of them on the road), and it requires another SARA
attack to start the engine or reprogram the vehicle to accept
a new key. It is suggested that criminals don’t need to start
the car a second time, as they drive to a location and strip
the car or use it once for a crime like a bank robbery etc.
Other forms of “relay” attack work similarly.
Many vehicle thefts have been documented which are either known to or appear to have used a SARA attack, including many expensive cars. See the video titled “Car Theft:
Key Fob Relay Hack Attack Explained” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aaqz
Fig.13: a simplified scheme of the SARA relay attack.
Source: Francillon, Danev and Capkun, Department
of Computer Science, ETH Zurich.
less entry, such as many modern cars, and some building
entrances or garage doors. It does not require possession of a
key, just a knowledge of its approximate location. It works
by making a long-range connection between a legitimate
owner’s key fob and the point to be accessed – see Fig.13.
This attack primarily works on systems that do not require a button on the key/card to be pressed to gain access,
but rather, simply require its proximity to the lock or a button press on the lock itself. This is because systems where
a button is pressed on the key require access to the key.
Many cars use a system known as Passive Keyless Entry and Start (PKES), although others are also used. The
principle involved is that when the keyfob and vehicle are
near to each other, an RF handshake occurs between the
two devices. This handshake is encrypted and uses a rolling code, so just recording the exchange between the two
devices will not allow you to gain access later.
However, SARA emulates the key possessor being near
the vehicle or door, when in fact they are far away (say,
100m). This allows the attackers to unlock the door without having the key.
A simplified explanation of how PKES works is as follows. The car or other access point regularly emits a low
frequency (LF) probe signal of 120-135kHz, which is picked
up by the key’s paired RFID chip when it is less than 2m
away. This then activates a microcontroller in the key,
which opens a UHF channel and completes a rolling code
authentication with the vehicle.
The doors can be opened or, if the key is detected as being
inside the vehicle, the engine can be started. Other systems
may have the key respond on an LF band rather than UHF.
A PKES attack first requires two devices, one near the
car, the other within range of the keyfob. A long-range communications channel is then established between the two.
The device near the car captures its LF emission and converts it to a convenient frequency, such as 2.5GHz. This
is then received by the device near the keyfob and downconverted back to the original LF frequency.
The key fob then reacts in the usual manner, and its UHF
transmissions are picked up and relayed back to the other
unit, and the rolling code exchange can be completed over
the relay channel, as if the key is close to the vehicle. A loop
antenna is used at both locations to inject and receive the
LF signals from the car and key, while a standard UHF an22
Silicon Chip
CREATING VULNERABILITIES
IN HARDWARE
IBM Selectric typewriter keystroke logging
In 1984, it was discovered that from 1976-1984, 16 IBM
Selectric typewriters used in the US Embassy in Moscow
and the US Consulate in Leningrad had been fitted with
what would today be called a key-logging system.
These typewriters were electromechanical, with no electronics, so this was not a traditional form of hacking (see
Fig.14).
The attack was highly sophisticated and much more
complex than the Soviets were thought to be capable of.
The possibility that the typewriters might be bugged was
only established after the French discovered one of their
teleprinters had been bugged, and alerted the Americans,
which lead to the “GUNMAN Project” to find these and
other bugs.
These typewriters used mechanical binary coding to
move the ‘golf ball’ print head. The position of the six
“latch interposers” on the typewriter had been modified,
and a magnet added.
The bug had magnetometers that could sense the position of the latch interposers, which had encoded on them
a 6-bit binary value which the bug compressed to four bits
and then transmitted (Fig.15).
The bugs had special circuitry to evade standard bug
sweeps, such as with non-linear junction detectors. It is
likely enemy agents had obtained access to the typewriter somewhere along the supply chain to install the bugs
(see Fig.16).
The operation of the bug is quite complicated and there
Fig.14: the IBM
Selectric electric
typewriter from
the 1960s, showing
its unique ‘golf
ball’ print head.
The “bugging” of
these was the first
known instance
of key-logging
for espionage. It
used mechanical
binary coding and
mechanical digitalto-analog converters
to detect the
character on the golf ball being typed, then transmitted this
information to a remote location.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.15: this shows how the Selectric bug worked,
including conversion of the mechanical 6-bit
binary code to a 4-bit value
for transmission.
Image source: Crypto Museum
(www.cryptomuseum.com)
is insufficient space for a full description here. See the following website
for the only detailed description of
its operation on the web: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aare
The full fascinating story can be
read in the declassified document
“Learning from the Enemy: The
GUNMAN Project”, United States
Cryptologic History, Series VI, Vol.
13 at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqo
Jumping the “Air Gap”
Computers which require very
high security are protected by an “air gap”, which basically
means that the only wires running to and from those computers carry power; there is no network connection to prevent hackers from accessing the systems or getting data out.
Usually, people with access to air-gapped computers are
also subject to strict rules about carrying USB drives, optical media, smartphones and so on, to prevent a bad actor
from stealing the data.
But Israeli researchers at the Cyber-Security Research
Center at the Ben-Gurion University of the Negev have
devised methods by which data can be extracted from an
air-gapped computer. See the video titled “The Air-Gap
Jumpers” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aar0
Generally, these methods require the computer to be
compromised in some manner beforehand, possibly before
it is even installed, or via malware on a USB drive smuggled in. Data can then be transmitted to remote locations,
despite the lack of networking.
* LED-it-GO: a computer’s hard drive activity light can
be made to blink on and off in a Morse Code-like pattern.
See the video titled “LED-it-GO. Jumping the Air-Gap with
a small HardDrive LED” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aar1
* PowerHammer: a method by which the power consumption of the computer is altered by varying CPU utilisation. The variations encode the desired data. Power
consumption can be monitored via associated wall power
outlets and data extracted at the rate of 1000 bits/second,
or by measuring phase angle changes at the electrical junction box, at 10 bits/second.
* MOSQUITO: malware on the target computer transmits data via its speaker to the other computer at 18-24kHz,
which is not audible to most people. A second computer,
up to 9m away, uses its onboard speaker as a microphone
to pick up that signal. See the video titled “MOSQUITO:
Jump air-gaps via speaker-to-speaker communication” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aar2
* ODINI: this attack allows data to be extracted from a
computer even when it is in a Faraday cage, which blocks
most electromagnetic radiation.
The exploit is based on the fact that only higher frequency radiation is blocked by the cage, not low frequency or
static magnetic fields. (For example, a compass will still
siliconchip.com.au
work in a Faraday cage.)
Malware on the target computer is used to generate slowly varying magnetic fields by regulating the CPU load. A
sensor external to the Faraday cage can detect the magnetic field variations and receive the desired data. See the
video titled “ODINI: Escaping data from Faraday-caged
Air-Gapped computers” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aar3
* MAGNETO: similar to ODINI but uses the magnetic
sensor of a smartphone for the receiver. See the video titled
“MAGNETO: Air-Gap Magnetic Keylogger” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aar4
* AirHopper: uses malware to generate encoded FM
radio signals via a computer monitor, to be received by a
smartphone. See the video titled “How to leak sensitive
data from an isolated computer (air-gap) to a nearby mobile phone – AirHopper” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aar5
* BitWhisper: malware which varies the heat output of
the target computer, which can be picked up 40cm away.
Allows the extraction of data such as passwords at the rate
of 1-8 bits per hour.
Fig.16: modified power switches from Selectric typewriters,
showing how power was diverted to run the bug. There
were multiple generations of the bug, and this modification
was not used in all of them. Some of the bugs were battery
powered instead.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 23
Fig.17: part of the OR1200
CPU (left) showing the tiny
altered region involved in the
A2 malicious hardware attack.
One μm is one-thousandth of a
millimetre.
See the video titled “BitWhisper - Jumping the Air-Gap with
Heat” at: siliconchip.com.au/
link/aar6
* GSMem: malware which
generates radio signals via specific memory instructions, which
can be received by a mobile
phone. See the video titled “GSMem Breaking The Air-Gap” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aar7
* DiskFiltration: malware generates ultrasonic audio signals via
the hard disk actuator arm, so it can be used on computers
without speakers. See the video titled “DiskFiltration: Data
Exfiltration from Air-Gapped Computers” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aar8
* USBee: utilises malware and an unmodified USB device to generate encoded radio signals that can be received
and decoded using GNU Radio (opens source software radio). See the video titled “USBee: Jumping the air-gap with
USB” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aar9
* Fansmitter: malware which can transmit acoustic data
from a speakerless computer via modulation of cooling fan
speed, which can be received up to 8m away at a rate of
900 bits per hour. See the video titled “Fansmitter: Leaking Data from Air-Gap Computers (clip #1)” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aara
* aIR-Jumper is an optical and infrared exploit using malware to control the infrared illuminators of security cameras
on the same network, allowing bidirectional communication
over distances of kilometres; see the video titled “leaking
data via security cameras” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aarb
* xLED: malware which extracts information by observing encoded data sent via the LED status lights of a network router. It can be observed remotely using a telescope,
at 1-2000 bits per second. See the video titled “xLED: Covert Data Exfiltration via Router LEDs” at: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aarc
* VisiSploit: malware which encodes data on the computer’s LCD screen in a way not perceptible to humans (eg, fast
flickering), but which can be recovered by viewing the LCD
with a remote or hidden camera (“Optical air-gap exfiltration
attack via invisible images” is another similar technique).
* LCD TEMPEST: malware which encodes data as radio
signals generated by the computer’s video cable, which can
then be received via GNU Radio at 60-640 bits per second.
ers called A2, was shown to work because typically, chip
designers do not have full control over their design. Once
a CPU or other chip is designed, it is sent to a third party
for manufacturing.
The chip development company ensures their design has
not been tampered with by testing the fabricated chips, to
ensure they behave as intended.
But in this particular attack, the malicious circuitry was
only activated by an extremely unusual sequence of events
repeated multiple times, that the original designer could
not possibly envisage or test for.
In the scenario tested by researchers K. Yang, et al, they
modified the circuit by adding capacitors into the chip circuitry or “mask” which siphoned off power from nearby
wires as they transitioned from one logic state to another.
But this only occurred during the execution of an unusual
operation, which could easily be triggered by the attackers.
When those capacitors eventually gain full charge, they
cause a transition of the state of a selected flip-flop that holds
the ‘privilege bit’ for the processor, enabling full control of
the computer by any user.
The attack was tested on an open-source chip design
(OpenRISC 1200 CPU – see Fig.17) but could be adapted
to virtually any CPU.
Because this sort of attack is possible, companies with
suspect behaviour have been banned or restricted from certain activities by governments.
For example, Chinese manufacturers Huawei and ZTE
have been banned in Australia from involvement in the 5G
Manufactured devices with design altered for
espionage
Installing malware or hardware exploits into computer systems is bad enough, but consider that a “backdoor”
could be built into a CPU or other important chip like a
GPU (graphics processing unit). It would be virtually undetectable.
This exact scenario was tested at researchers at the University of Michigan in 2016. This attack, which the research24
Silicon Chip
Fig.18: the announcement that Huawei and ZTE have
been banned by the Federal Government from providing
5G technology in Australia.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.19: the claimed Chinese espionage chip
supposedly found built into Supermicro
motherboards, along with pencil for size
comparison. It is now doubtful that such a
chip actually exists, but such an attack is
theoretically possible.
network due to security concerns (Fig.18).
The Federal Government has a general
guideline that says there is too much risk
using companies that are “likely to be
subject to extrajudicial directions from
a foreign government that conflict with
Australian law”; see: siliconchip.com.
au/link/aard
The concern is that there might be pressure from the Chinese government for these companies to install backdoors
into the equipment, which could later be used for espionage
(eg, listening to ministers’ private conversations). The government has made no direct public statement advising of
the ban, but the affected companies were informed.
Huawei has also been in the news recently as being
banned from doing business with the United States over
similar concerns.
Huawei and ZTE were also investigated by the US House
Intelligence Committee in 2012 over concerns that their
equipment might be sending intelligence back to the Chinese government.
The Committee recommended that US companies should
not purchase telecommunications equipment from either
company as a result.
ZTE eventually had US their restrictions on US trade relaxed in exchange for paying a US$1 billion fine, as well
as a nearly complete management change, and overwatch
from a US compliance team.
Currently, the only restriction placed on ZTE by the USA
is that their devices will not be considered in US government purchasing contracts.
The ZTE trading ban was in retaliation for selling their
products to Iran and North Korea but ZTE is and was a lot
more dependent on US manufacturers for chips than Huawei. Thus, the damage to ZTE was greater and they were
therefore more keen to have that ban lifted.
See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaso and siliconchip.com.
au/link/aasp
Equipment intercepted and altered before
delivery
In 2002, the Chinese claimed that a Boeing 767 purchased
from the United States to serve the Chinese President Jiang
Zemin yielded a total of 27 bugs, which they claimed had
been planted by the CIA when the aircraft was undergoing
conversion work to a VIP aircraft in Texas.
As with the 767 incident, other devices can be intercepted
and altered for espionage purposes at some point between
manufacture and delivery of the item to the end user.
In late 2018, there was a claim by Bloomberg News that
US computer server manufacturer Supermicro had been
compromised by the manufacturer in China, by the insertion of a tiny espionage chip that could enable the transmission of data on the computer or its network to malicious
actors (see Fig.19).
This claim has since been thoroughly investigated and
is now widely believed to be untrue. Investigations were
siliconchip.com.au
conducted by companies including Apple and Amazon,
who were Supermicro customers, and the US Department
of Homeland Security and the UK’s National Cyber Security Centre.
Supermicro’s reputation has still damaged though, and
they note the difficulty of proving a negative (ie, that the
malicious chips don’t exist). But that does not mean that
this particular method is impossible.
NSA Cisco router hacks
Security documents and photos were leaked depicting
a US NSA “upgrade” facility called TAO (Tailored Access
Operations) for Cisco devices and other tech devices.
It was claimed the NSA would intercept shipped devices and used this facility to install backdoors or similar exploits, before delivering the products to the end users, who
were presumably unaware that the product(s) had been altered. See: siliconchip.com.au/link/aasq and siliconchip.
com.au/link/aasr
Rowhammer and RAMbleed
Rowhammer is an exploit involving DRAM memory, in
which the memory cells inadvertently leak electrical charge
into adjacent cells, thus causing those cells to change their
contents.
This leakage effect rarely or never occurs in DDR or DDR2
type SDRAM modules, but is known to occur in some
DDR3 and DDR4 modules because of their much higher
chip density.
Normal leakage of the electrical charge representing a
memory state is usually compensated for by regularly rereading the memory element and then rewriting the data.
This is called ‘refreshing’ and is normally done every 64ms.
But with Rowhammer, there is a forced repeated reading
and refreshing of memory elements, with use of the Cache
Line Flush (CLFUSH) instruction causing adjacent memory elements to flip. This is normally prevented by caching
limits, but these limits are overridden by CFLUSH.
The deliberate altering of data in adjacent memory rows
has been used as a basis for the attacker to gain extra access
privileges in the system under attack such as by altering
control structures in memory. In one implementation of a
Rowhammer attack, sensitive data such as passwords can
be extracted from the leaking memory cells.
Rowhammer cannot be easily fixed with security software or operating system updates, and perhaps not at all.
The RAMbleed attack uses Rowhammer to identify bits
that can easily be flipped, even when ECC (error-correcting
code memory) is used. These flippable bits are used to read
out the desired memory contents.
A researcher who discovered this vulnerability, Yuval
Yarom (University of Adelaide) described RAMBleed as
“a side-channel attack that enables an attacker to read out
physical memory belonging to other processes”.
RAMbleed can be theoretically used to read any data in
physical memory. A read rate of 3-4 bits per second has
been demonstrated. Therefore, data such as passwords or
encryption keys can be read in a relatively short time if the
location of the data in memory is known.
SC
Next month, as promised in the intro, we’ll have the
details on many more electronic spying techniques, especially bugging and covert surveillance.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 25
Micromite-based
4DOF
Simulator
Seat
Playing a car racing game (or if
you prefer, a driving simulator) on a
big screen can be thrilling. Plus it’s a lot
cheaper and safer than taking your car to a
racetrack! But it’s a lot more exciting if you
can actually feel the motion and forces as
you accelerate, brake, corner and drive up/
down hills or banked tracks. Build this
four-degree-of-freedom racecar seat and
experience that motion, without spending
heaps! It works well with flight simulators, too.
I
f you’re really into racing games or driving simulators,
you’ll want a seat like this, which moves to simulate
the motion of the vehicle you’re ‘driving’.
It can also give you some sensation of motion with a
flight simulator, although obviously, it can’t quite simulate barrel rolls and loops!
You can go out and buy one right now (or order it online), but you could easily spend thousands of dollars on
a good one. If you have some mechanical and electronics
skills, and are interested in a bit of a challenge, you can
build your own for a fraction of the price.
And in this article, we explain just how to do that.
You can see the sort of results you can expect to get if
you build this seat by watching the following short video:
https://youtu.be/tn9LW758emc
That video shows a racing simulation game called rFactor (available on https://store.steampowered.com), actuating the seat using the SimTools software (link at the end
of this article).
Micromite-based
The electronics, whose job is to inter26
Silicon Chip
by Gianni
face with your PC,
retrieve data from the simulation and then drive
the motors in the seat to the
required angles. It’s set up using a touchscreen interface.
And it’s all based on a familiar module to SILICON CHIP
readers: Geoff Graham’s Micromite processor. The electronics module can control the motors in the seat using off-theshelf motor driver boards, or even better (and much cheaper!) you can build your own, as described later.
The seat itself is a bucket seat as installed in many race
cars, or even street cars. They are widely available and
not terribly expensive (try a wrecker who might have just
what you want!).
Of course, if you want to use a famous brand seat (like
a Recaro) be prepared to pay just a little more!
The seat’s supporting structure is built mainly from steel
tubing, plates and MDF, with linear bearings to allow it to
move forward and back and simple ‘bearings’ made from
caster wheels and tubes to allow it to pitch forward and
back, yaw from side to side and roll from side to side.
Between two and four motors provide
the motion, depending on how many ‘dePallotti
grees of freedom’ (DoF) you want.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
MICROMITE 4DOF AXES CONTROLLER
Roll
Up
POWER SUPPLY
“Pitch”
Down
PIC32MX170F256D
Yaw
H-BRIDGE
Forward
“Surge”
POLOLU 758
Back
WIPER MOTOR
WIPER MOTOR
Fig.1: apart from the mechanical side, which we’ll get to
shortly, here are the electrical components of the simulator
seat and are described in the text. The motors are worm
drive (12V or 24V wiper motors, for example) which can be
obtained at low cost from an auto wrecking yard.
The panel below shows and explains the six basic degrees of freedom, while Fig.2 shows those motions the most
complicated version of the seat provides.
With a driving simulation, turning the vehicle normally
causes some degree of yaw, sway (pitching sideways) and
possibly also roll (pitching forward/back).
Acceleration and deceleration cause changes in pitch
(to simulate suspension compression) and surge (forward/
back motion), while driving over bumps or elevation changes (ie, going up or down a hill) causes heave (up/down)
movements.
The use of a standard seat slider mechanism provides a
reach adjustment for the pedals, steering and gear controls
(slider frame), so that you can customize it to suit each individual driver.
Additionally, the seat can be relocated forward or backwards through additional holes on the main frame.
It also provides a reach adjustment for the pedals and
other controls, so that you can customise it to suit each
individual driver.
WHAT IS DoF?
The are actually six Degrees of Freedom, which allow you to experience just about any force you’re
likely to encounter. All relate to the possible movement of a ship at sea or an aircraft/spacecraft in flight.
These are:
Roll
Right
Yaw
Left
Pitch
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2019
Down
siliconchip.com.au
The seat assembly can be built in three different versions,
with two, three or four degrees of freedom. The three DoF
version cannot move forward or backward but can tilt forward, back, left, right and yaw. The two DoF version cannot yaw either, and can only tilt forward, back, left or right.
Essentially, the two DoF seat is made into a three DoF
seat by the addition of a “swivel/yaw frame”, including
a third motor which causes the back of the seat to swing
from side to side. The three DoF seat is turned into a four
DoF seat by the addition of another base (made from MDF)
DoF – Degrees of Freedom – refer to the directions you (or more properly, your craft) can move (in
this case, simulated by our seat).
Up
Forward
Fig.2: the four ‘degrees of freedom’ which allow you to experience just about any force you’re likely to encounter while
in a moving vehicle. The seat described here can provide all
degrees of freedom except for left/right and heave (although
its up/down axis does provide some degree of heave motion).
Move up and down (elevating/heaving);
Move left and right (turning/swaying);
Move forward and backward (accelerating/braking or ‘surging’);
Swivel left and right (yawing);
Back Tilt forward and backward (pitching);
Pivot side to side (rolling).
Our simulation seat has four of these motions: up/down (heave), forward/back (surge), swivel (yaw)
and roll. The ‘heave’ motion is implemented by moving the front of the seat up and down on both sides
at the same time, while roll is provided by the differential vertical motion of the front of the seat between
the left and right sides.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 27
Fig.3: the four main subframes: from left to right,
the yaw base/swivel frame (not required for the two-DoF
version), the main frame, the seat frame and the slider/steering
frame. The majority of mechanical construction work in building the seat involves
fabricating these four sub-frames. They are made mostly from steel tubing, plates, angle,
flat bar and a few brackets. You will need some welding skills to do a good job.
with linear bearings and a motor, so that it can slide forwards and backwards.
The two-DoF version is the easiest to build, especially if you omit the seat slider adjustment. It’s possible to
upgrade a two-DoF version to the three-DoF version later, and similarly, to upgrade the three-DoF version to the
four-DoF version.
The four main subframes are shown in Fig.3. The yaw
base (not required for the two-DoF version), the main frame,
the seat frame and the slider/steering frame are arranged in
a stack, with the bottom frame on top of the yaw base, the
seat frame on top of the bottom frame and the slider frame
hanging from the seat frame.
Building the seat frame/assembly
This is a job which requires some significant fabrication
skills and tools. Most of the components are made from
steel, which can be cut using a metal cut-off saw or manually (and slowly!), with a hacksaw.
The 6mm plates used to attach the electric motors are the
only plates requiring actual shaping. Any metal supplier
The seat frame with the bucket seat removed
28
Silicon Chip
can cut these. It can be done manually, but it’s hard work!
The other mounting plates are either fabricated from
blank metal plates or made up using standard off-the-shelf
brackets.
There is a need to machine special bushes and rods to
suit the spherical bearing and universal joint unit. These
should be made to fit the selected components.
The two rear caster wheels on the swivel base are attached using spherical bearings to reduce friction, and the
shaft holes must be re-drilled to keep the correct horizontal height of the frame.
Nylon solid wheels (not rubber) can also be used, although this will increase the power demand from the motor.
In this case, the two angle holes to the main frame wheel
also need to be re-located to maintain the correct horizontal level of the main frame.
For the simulator frame to swivel, the body of the larger
caster swivel wheel base is used. The wheel housing needs
to be cut and welded to the swivel base.
To allow a smoother swivel movement, it would be better to remove the ball bearing from the large caster swivel
A view of the universal joint connecting the seat frame to
the main frame.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
C
120
16
7
24°
A
300
800
SLIDER BASE
C
205
395
380
A
G
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C
C
A
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300
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1071
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ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MM
F
130°
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SLIDER & STEERING FRAME
B
72°
149
1
October 2019 29
185
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FOOT PLATE
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F
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SLIDER STEERING
D
B
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E
149
800
30
base and introduce a double raw-angular contact bearing or
similar, with a dedicated spindle. But that would require
a dedicated housing design. The caster swivel base used
is the easiest solution and works well.
Figs.4-7 show the details of how each subframe is made,
while Fig.8 shows the MDF pieces which need to be cut
and shaped for the table which holds the steering wheel
and gearshift lever, and the floor base, which is only needed
for the four-DoF version of the seat. Fig.9 shows the assembled seat (four-DoF version) from two different angles while
Fig.10 shows a 3D view of the completed assembly (3 DoF).
You can also refer back to Fig.3 and the photos throughout this article during construction in case you have trouble figuring out exactly how the various pieces fit together.
We won’t go into exhaustive detail on the construction
steps here, partly because there are various ways you can
go about it, and partly because we expect constructors with
the tools and skills to be able to do so should be able to figure it out from the CAD drawings and diagrams.
Most parts will need to be welded, although some parts
are bolted together, and generally, the holes which need to
be drilled for these bolts are shown in the drawings. Drill
12mm holes for M10 bolts, 10mm holes for M8 and 8mm
holes for M6.
Once you have built the subframes, given them a good
coat of black paint for rust prevention (and to make it look
good), put them together and then you can start mounting
up the motors and fabricating the linkages to attach them
to the frame where required.
If building the three-DoF version, it’s easiest to completely build and test the two-DoF version first, then add
the yaw base, motor and linkages and test that separately.
Similarly, to build the four-DoF version, build and test
the three-DoF version and then add the floor base, linear
bearings, forward/back motor and linkages, then wire that
up and test the final product.
Once you’ve built the frame and attached the motors,
you will need to build the controller module and obtain a
suitable power supply before you can wire up the motors
and test it properly.
Make sure you attach the punched angle rail to the slider
frame (“foot plate retainer”), even if you aren’t using the
chequerplate foot plate, as it adds needed rigidity. The
CAD drawings do not show how this is mounted, but you
can see it in the photos.
J
FOOT PLATE RETAINER (x2)
Fig.4: the slider and steering frame provides a place to mount
the steering wheel, gear shift lever and pedals, while allowing
them to be moved forward and back, to suit users of different
heights and sizes. It’s a good idea also to fit the foot plate, to
give you somewhere to rest your feet (it looks nice, too).
583
SC
Fig.5: the
bucket seat is
mounted on the
12 x 12mm diameter
seat frame, and
P
38 holes to attach seat
can be moved
forwards or
K
M
backwards
4 x 8mm
O
into one of
diameter
three positions
holes
to
L
N
L
attach
through extra
slider
O
bolt holes. This
frame
also provides
280
K
attachment
points for the
320
P
slider and
steering frame and also the caster wheels
which roll on the optional swivel frame.
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2019
152
K
P
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
Australia’s
524
95
380
The additional adjustment holes allow 25mm further
movement of the seat frame assembly.
355
110
81
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200
You can cut the MDF components using a jigsaw and
laminate the edges with PVC edge banding tape and a hot
air gun.
225
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V
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70
108
T
T
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Adjustment and weight handling
Q
There are two options to assemble the seat and slider
frame, depending on whether a standard seat slider is used
or not. If using a seat slider, this is bolted between the seat
bottom and top of the slider/steering frames.
Unlike in a vehicle, instead of moving the seat itself, it
moves the sliding/steering frame back and forward.
The seat frame/slider frame is bolted to the pedal frame,
while the slider top rail is bolted to the seat frame. This
allows the foot frame to move forward or back as needed,
with minimal disturbance to weight ratio balance of the
unit as the seat stays close to the universal joint pivot point.
There is a further 25mm forward or backward step adjustment on the seat frame, as there are three sets of holes
in the seat frame to which the seat can be bolted. This can
be used to offset user size or weight differences.
I have tested the rig with a 120kg, 1.75m tall individual, and both the frame and the motors were able to cope
without any problems.
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Controller circuit
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2019
Fig.6: the seat frame mounts on top of this main frame, which
provides attachment points for the two front motors and also
the caster wheels, which roll on the optional yaw base below.
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5
40
40
15
8
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113
2
6
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RETAINING WHEEL
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LINEAR BEARING BRACKET
7
45
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The controller circuit is shown in Fig.11. This excludes
the four motor controllers, which will be described separately later. You have a couple of options when it comes
to those motor controllers.
The job of this circuit is to receive data from the simulation running on a PC via a USB port, then perform some
calculations to determine how the motors need to be driven to move the seat appropriately.
It must then produce the appropriate drive signals to
send to those motor controllers.
All of this work is done by the software running on IC1,
a 44-pin SMD PIC32 processor programmed as a Micromite. The aforementioned software is therefore written
in MMBasic.
Data from the PC comes in via a USB/serial adaptor that
is wired up to CON1. The data then goes from CON2 to
CON4, via a pair of jumper wires (blue/green dashed lines).
CON4 connects to pins 8 & 9 on IC1, which are configured
as a second serial port (ie, not the same one used for the
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8
2
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WHEEL HOLDERS
3
25
30
Fig.7: the yaw base/swivel
3
frame allows the main
100
20 20
frame above to rotate around
146
the front pivot point made
from a caster swivel wheel.
60 50
It rides on two caster wheels
attached to the angle bar which
roll on the angled metal plates at the back of the frame.
This also provides a mounting point for the yaw motor.
30
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Silicon Chip
A view of the typical linear bearings and shaft used for the
forward/backward motions.
Australia’s
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
siliconchip.com.au
280
225
$
$
130
445
1100
340
450
%
%
Motor
$
FLOOR BASE (FORWARD/BACK)
%
Fig.8: these pieces, cut
%
from 16mm MDF, provide a
SC
2019for the steering wheel and gear
table
shift lever, and the optional floor base which
is needed for the fourth (forward/back) degree of freedom.
BUCKET SEAT
GHEPARDO
(ADJUSTABLE)
A view of the aluminium plate used as a footrest, installed
on the slider/steering frame.
siliconchip.com.au
355
150
115
$
200
200
STEERING & GEARSHIFT TABLE
470
Micromite console & programming).
To program or reprogram the Micromite software, the
jumper wires connecting CON2 to CON4 are changed to
connect CON2 to CON3 instead, so that the USB serial
port accesses the Micromite console.
During regular operation, the software reads in and
processes the data from the USB serial port on the PC. It
then generates control signals on digital output pins 1-4,
15 and 21-23. Pins 15 and 21-23 carry PWM signals which
determine the torque/speed for each motor, while pins 1-4
control the direction of motor rotation.
These signals go to pin headers CON8a-d and header
sockets CON9a-d – these interface to one of two types of
motor controller. CON8a-d suit pre-built modules, the
“Pololu High-Power Motor Driver 18v25” while CON9ad suit a module that you can build yourself, for considerably less than the Pololu modules cost, described later
in this article.
It’s a slightly revised version of my design published
in the Circuit Notebook section of the November 2017 issue (page 80).
The main difference is a slightly changed layout to better suit plugging into the controller board used for this
project, plus a slight simplification which removes two
redundant resistors.
While not shown in Fig.11, the board has two two-way
terminal blocks to feed +13.8V and 0V from a high current
supply into the board, for distribution to these four motor
controller modules (see Fig.13). The motors are wired directly to the output sockets on the motor driver modules.
If using my motor drivers, because they have three control inputs, rather than the two of the Pololu modules, you
need an extra inverter for each driver. This is provided by
IC2, a 74LS14 hex inverter. It converts the direction signals
(low for one direction, high for the other) into two signals,
with one going high for rotation in one direction, and the
other going high for rotation in the opposite direction.
CON6 is a 14-way header to connect to a 2.4in or 2.8in
touchscreen based on the ILI9341 controller chip, which
is the same screen used in the Micromite LCD BackPack
and V2 or V3 BackPack.
This is used to set the unit up and to monitor its operation.
See the screen grabs below to see how the screen is used.
It’s critical to calibrate the motor control scheme properly.
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
Australia’s
Fig.9 (below): when the four main frames,
seat, table, steering wheel and pedals
are all joined together, they should look
something like this
(4DoF version).
LOGITECH G27
STEERING FRAME
NOT SHOWN
SSeptember
eptember 2019 31
2019 31
Fig.10: here’s a 3D view of the four main
frames (not including the floor base or
motors) as they appear when fully built
and assembled.
Other connectors
CON5 is an in-circuit serial programming header which
is compatible with the Microchip PICkit 3 and PICkit 4,
although you could also connect it to a Microbridge (see
the May 2017 article; siliconchip.com.au/Article/10648).
This is necessary if you purchase a blank PIC32 microcontroller.
If you purchase a pre-programmed micro from the SILICON
CHIP ONLINE SHOP, you can get away without this header.
Power is fed into the unit via CON7. It must be a regulated 5V, and this supplies the LCD screen at CON6 directly, both for logic power and to run its backlighting LEDs.
(Initially the plan was to supply power via CON1 from the
PC’s USB port but we found that the voltage drop caused
by the long cable between the rear end of the chair and the
display (about 2m) caused the display to misbehave. So it
is best fed in via CON7).
The 5V rail is also regulated to 3.3V by LDO REG1, to
power microcontroller IC1.
CON10 allows a DS18B20 temperature sensor to be connected to the board, so that the unit can shut down if the
board temperature gets too high.
If you use one of the DS18B20 sensors on the end of a
A view of one possible mechanical link between the front
motor shaft and the positioning potentiometer.
32
Silicon Chip
wire, you could mount it in or on the power supply, or one
of the motors, if you want.
But if anything is going to overheat, it will probably
be the motor drivers, so the ideal location for this sensor is in the middle of the M1 and M2 driver boards
as these are the most heavily used.
The pins of CON11 can be shorted to reset microcontroller IC1. It could be wired to a momentary pushbutton reset switch. CON12a-d
provide connection points for the four motor
position feedback potentiometers.
Basically, as the motors rotate, the voltage at pin
3 of each of these connectors varies between 0V and
3.3V, and this is fed to analog input pins 27-24 of IC1, so
it can use its internal analog-to-digital converter (ADC) to
sense the potentiometer positions and thus drive the motors to a particular angle, just like a servo motor.
LED1 is a simple power indicator to show when the
5V supply is present. And finally, CON13 is an auxiliary
header which breaks out connections to four spare Micromite pins plus +3.3V and GND, and could be used for future expansion (such as adding a fan to simulate wind!).
Pololu motor drivers
Note that the Pololu motor drivers now being sold are
somewhat smaller and cheaper than the versions shown
here, but they do the same job and are drop-in replacements.
These drivers enable bidirectional control of the highpower DC brushed motors used. These motor driver boards
support a wide range of motor voltages, from 6.5V to 30V
DC, and can deliver a continuous 25A.
You can get these modules in Australia from RobotGear
(http://siliconchip.com.au/link/aats) or Core Electronics
(http://siliconchip.com.au/link/aatt). Or you can build
your own H-bridge drivers, which are almost as capable...
H-bridge driver circuit
My own H-bridge module design is shown in Fig.12,
which is very similar to the circuit published in the Circuit Notebook section of November 2017. The H-bridge is
formed from two CSD18534KCS high-current logic-level
N-channel Mosfets (Q3 & Q5) and two IRF4905 P-channel
high-current Mosfets, Q2 & Q4.
The rear bearing assembly. The retaining centre bearing
prevents the frame from over-tilting during strong changes
of direction of the swivel frame.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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An overall view of the assembled unit. The
positioning of the motor links on the two lower
frames is best determined once assembly is complete.
Schottky diodes D1-D4 parallel the Mosfet body diodes
and absorb any back-EMF or motor braking energy. They
dissipate a lot less heat than the Mosfet body diodes because of their lower forward voltages. There’s also a local
100µF bypass capacitor across the motor supply. Zener
diodes ZD1-ZD4 protect the Mosfet gates from excessive
voltages, clamping them to about -0.7V and +15V.
AND gates IC1a & IC1b combine the PWM and directional
input signals to generate the gate drive voltages, and their
outputs directly drive the gates of Q3 and Q5.
These signals also go to the bases of NPN transistors Q1
and Q6, which form inverters to generate the drive signals
for the P-channel Mosfets. These also act as level-shifters,
so that when the signal from IC1a/IC1b is low, the gate
of the associated P-channel Mosfet is held at V+, around
13.8V, to keep that Mosfet switched off.
When the signal from IC1a/IC1b goes high, the baseemitter junction of one of these NPN transistors is forward-biased, and current flows through its 3.6kΩ base
current-limiting resistor, causing it to switch on and pull
its collector down to just a volt or so. This is well below
the 13.8V at the source of Q2 and Q4, so one of those Mosfets switches on.
The 1.5kΩ base-emitter resistors for Q1 and Q6 ensure
that they switch off when there is no drive voltage, and
as a result, all four Mosfets are kept off if the 5V supply
is absent, even if the 13.8V motor supply is present. The
160Ω emitter resistors for Q1 and Q6 prevent them from
fully saturating when switched on, so that they switch off
faster when the base drive is removed.
The exposed seat frame.
The full frame, without the seat in place.
siliconchip.com.au
Building the control module
The control module is built on a single-sided PCB coded 11109191. Use the overlay diagram, Fig.13, as a guide
during construction.
You can etch this at home, as I did, or you can buy
a commercially-made PCB from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP. That board will be double-sided, with copper
tracks on the top layer replacing the wire links, saving you
considerable effort in fitting those links.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 33
CON7
DC
IN
+5V
+
470
–
CIRCUITRY IN THIS
SHADED AREA
V+
FF2
FF1
RESET-
8
5V
7
PWM
6
DIR+
5
DIR–
4
GND
5
GND
47 F
LED1
K
4
3
2
2
1
14
1
IC2a
3
PWM
2
DIR
1
GND
CON 9 b
CON8b
V+
5V(out)
FF2
FF1
RESET-
8
5V
7
PWM
6
DIR+
5
DIR–
4
GND
5
4
3
2
4
1
3
CON4
IC2b
1 TX
3
PWM
GAME
2 RX
2
DIR
CON10
1
GND
CON 9 c
CON8c
V+
5V(out)
FF2
FF1
RESET-
8
5V
7
PWM
6
DIR+
5
DIR–
4
GND
IC2: 74LS14
5
4.7k
3
TEMP
SENSOR
IN
+3.3V
2
1
4
3
2
6
1
5
IC2c
3
PWM
ICSP
2
DIR
CON5
1
GND
MCLR
Vcc
5V(out)
FF2
FF1
RESET-
GND
CON 9 d
CON8d
V+
8
5V
7
PWM
6
DIR+
5
DIR–
4
GND
5
PGD
4
PCC
3
2
1
+3.3V
3
4
5
6
IC2d
8
1
2
9
7
3
PWM
2
DIR
K
A
CON8a-9d: For Pololu Drivers
CON9a-9d: For DIY drivers
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20 1 9
LM3940IT
LED
1
GND
GND
IN
GND
OUT
FOUR DEGREES OF FREEDOM MICROMITE-BASED MOTOR CONTROLLER
The only slightly tricky part to solder is SMD microcontroller IC1. But it isn’t a particularly fine-pitched device, so
it is not too difficult. You will need some good flux paste
and a roll of solder wick, though.
Start by locating its pin 1 dot and line this up with
the pin 1 indicator etched into the copper on the bottom side of the board. Tack one of the corner pins to the
board, for example, by applying a little solder to one of
the pads and then sliding the chip into position while
heating that solder.
Check that the chip is square and all the pins are lined
34
+3.3V
OUT
IN
100nF
A
CON 9 a
CON8a
5V(out)
NOT REQUIRED IF
POLOLU IS USED
REG1 LM3940IT-3.3
+5V
Silicon Chip
up with their pads. If not, re-heat that initial solder joint
and gently nudge the chip in the right direction. Once it’s
correctly aligned, apply flux paste to all the pins, then solder the diagonally opposite pin from the one you tacked.
Apply solder to the remaining pins.
You can do this by loading the iron tip with some solder,
then gently dragging it along one edge of the chip. Repeat for
the other edges, then check for solder bridges across pins.
If you find any, apply extra flux paste and clean them
up with solder wick. Then use pure alcohol or flux residue cleaning solution to remove flux residue and inspect
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
9
10
11
T_IRQ
8
T_DO
7
T_DIN
T_CLK
6
T_CS
5
SDO
4
BKL
3
SDI
2
SCK
1
D/C
RESET
1
18
CS
2
RESET
CON11
1k
+5V
50k
+3.3V
GND
+5V
12 13 14
CON6
ILI9341 BASED
LCD DISPLAY
47 F
+3.3V
17
AVDD
28
VDD
40
VDD
AUX1
MCLR
1
2
3
4
RPB 8/PMD4/RB 8
RB9/RPB 9/SDA1/PMD3
RPB 7/PMD5/RB 7
RC 6 /RPC 6/PMA1
PGEC 3/RPB 6/PMD6/RB 6
RC 7 /RPC 7/PMA0
PGED3/RPB5/PMD7/RB5
CON13
18
6
44
5
43
4
42
3
41
+3.3V
2
1
38
IC1
RPC 5/PMA3/RC 5
5
PIC32MX170F
2 MX170F
37
RC9/RPC9/PMA6 PIC3
RPC4/PMA4/RC4
–256D
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
19
20
21
22
RC8/RPC8/PMA5
RB 10/RPB 10/PMD2/PGED2
RB 11/RPB 11/PMD1/PGEC 2
RPC3/RC3
TDI/RPA9/PMA9/RA9
RB12/PMD0/AN12
SOSCO /RPA4/RA4
RB 1 3 /RPB 1 3 /AN 11
SOSCI/RPB4/RB4
RA10/PMA10/TMS/PGED4
RA7/PMA7/TCK/PGEC4
RB 1 4 /RPB 1 4 /AN 10
TDO /RPA8/PMA8/RA8
OSC 2/CLKO /RPA3/RA3
OSC 1/CLKI/RPA2/RA2
RB15/RPB15/AN9
AN 8/RPC 2/RC 2
RA0 /AN 0 /VREF+
AN 7/RPC 1/RC 1
RA1/AN1/VREF–
AN6/RPC0/RC0
PGED1/AN 2 /RPB 0/RB 0
AN5/RPB3/RB3
PGEC1/AN3/RPB1 /RB1
AN4/RPB2/RB2
VCAP
AVSS
16
VSS
6
VSS
29
VSS
39
JP1
34
RX 2
33
TX 1
GND
CON1
+5V
1
CON3
CON2
PROGRAM
32
+3.3V
USB-SERIAL
INPUT
36
35
PWM2B
IN/OUT
31
2
2
3
1
4
5
30
6
27
+5V
GND
TX
RX
DTR
+3.3V
CON 12 a
26
3
25
+3.3V
24
2
1
23
POT
– M1
CON 12 b
7
3
+3.3V
47 F
2
1
TANT.
POT
– M2
CON 12 c
3
+3.3V
2
1
POT
– M3
CON 12 d
3
Fig.11: the control board circuit is relatively simple, thanks to the use of a PIC32
Micromite microcontroller (IC1) and four separate motor driver H-bridge modules, which
connect via CON8a-d or CON9a-d, depending on the type. Motor position feedback comes
from attached potentiometers, which provide variable voltage signals at CON12a-d. The
blue and green dotted lines (CON2 to CON3 or CON2 to CON4) are where jumper leads
are fitted to select between programming mode and game mode.
the solder joints under magnification to ensure they are
all good.
Fitting the remaining parts
If you have a single-sided board, the next job is to fit the
27 wire links on the top side of the board. They are shown
in red on Fig.13. Don’t miss any, and if you are using uninsulated wire, make sure the links are taut so that they
can’t easily bend and short to each other, or to the leads
of adjacent components.
Now fit the five resistors in place where shown on the
siliconchip.com.au
+3.3V
2
1
POT
– M4
overlay diagram. It’s best to check each one with a multimeter before soldering it; you can identify them by the
colour bands, but they are easily mixed up.
Next, solder IC2 in place, ensuring that its pin 1 dot is
orientated correctly. You can use a socket if you want, but
it shouldn’t be necessary. IC2 can be left out if you are using the Pololu motor drivers.
Install LED2, with its longer lead towards the closest
edge of the board (marked “A” for anode on the PCB).
Follow by fitting all the standard pin headers. Depending
on how you are building the unit, some can be left out,
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 35
Fig.12: the circuit of the DIY version of the motor driver (H-bridge) module.
It uses four Mosfets to drive the motor in either direction, controlled by two
small-signal transistors and a 74HC08 quad 2-input AND gate. This is only
slightly different than the version previously published in Circuit Notebook.
but they’re quite cheap, so it’s easier just to fit them all.
If using the Pololu motor drivers, you can also fit the
four 8-way female header sockets now.
Follow by mounting polarised header CON7, then the
capacitors. The electrolytic capacitors are polarised and
must be orientated as shown. You can identify the positive lead as it is the longer of the two. The tantalum capacitor should also have a “+” marking on its body, while
the aluminium electrolytics will have a stripe on the can
showing the negative lead.
You can now install the two terminal blocks along the
left edge, with their wide entry holes facing the edge of
the PCB, then fit regulator REG1 with its metal tab orientated as shown in Fig.13.
Your touchscreen module should have come with a 14pin header pre-soldered to it. You can now connect this
up to CON6 on the controller PCB using fourteen femalefemale jumper wires. You can get such wires joined together in a single ribbon cable, which would make the job
a little easier (and neater).
Pin 1 of CON6 is as the bottom, so make sure this goes
to pin 1 on the LCD (pin 1 is +5V, pin 2 is GND) and that
each pin is wired up in sequence.
Use the two shorter jumper wires to connect Tx on CON2
to Tx on CON3, and similarly, Rx to Rx. Fit the shorting
block on JP1 only if the controller is driven via the USB
and LCD display installed close by (see our earlier comments about the display misbehaving with a long cable).
Do not connect any other power source to CON7 (the LED
will not light up).
Solder the six-pin female header to the bottom of your
USB/serial adaptor, so that its pinout matches that of CON1.
Then plug this adaptor into CON1.
Programming IC1
If you’ve purchased a preprogrammed Micromite chip,
you can skip this step. Connect a PIC32 programmer to
CON5, ensuring the pinout is correct (for a PICkit, this will
be the case as long as pin 1 is lined up correctly).
If using a PICkit, use MPLAB X IPE to load the 44-pin
Micromite Mk2 HEX file into the chip, which can be downloaded for free from either the SILICON CHIP website, or
Geoff Graham’s website (geoffg.net).
If using a Microbridge, follow the instructions in the
Microbridge article on using pic32prog to load a HEX file
into PIC32. The file is the same regardless of the programmer you’re using.
Loading the BASIC code
You are now ready to connect this adaptor to your PC
via a USB cable. LED1 should light up. Fire up a terminal
emulator (or MMedit) and connect to the serial port which
Here are the two motor drivers which
suit our controller: on the left is the
commercial “Pololu” driver, while at right
is our DIY version (see Fig. 12 above). The
DIY version, however, does require that
IC2 is fitted to the PCB (see text).
36
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.13: use this PCB overlay
diagram as a guide to
building the controller
PCB. If you’re using a
single-sided board, fit the
wire links where shown in
red. Otherwise, if you’ve
purchased a double-sided
PCB, that is not necessary.
Note that the motor drivers
shown here are now obsolete;
the new versions are pincompatible but a fair bit
shorter, so the supply wires
will need to be a little bit
longer. Also note that while
this diagram shows the
Pololu modules fitted, it also
shows IC2. As explained in
the text, you do not need IC2
with the Pololu modules – the
diagram simply shows where
it would be fitted if you are
using DIY H-bridge modules.
has now appeared at 38,400 baud (check Device Manager
to see the newly allocated COM port number).
Once you’ve established communication, use XMODEM
or MMedit’s upload function to load the BASIC source
code for this project into the Micromite chip. As with the
Micromite firmware, the BASIC code is a free download
from the SILICON CHIP website.
You will then need to configure the touchscreen and
set up the code to run on power-up by issuing the following commands:
OPTION LCDPANEL ILI9341,L,36,32,35
OPTION TOUCH 30,31
OPTION AUTORUN ON
GUI CALIBRATE
Once you’ve finished calibrating the touchscreen, you
can use the GUI TEST TOUCH command to check that it’s
correct (touching the screen should leave a trail of dots),
then cycle power and check that the splash screen comes
up (see Screen1) and by touching the screen, the main
screen (Screen2).
Building the H-bridge module
If you aren’t using the Pololu modules, you can build
your own H-bridges using the double-sided PCB coded
11109192. Use the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.14, as a guide.
Start by fitting the resistors where shown, except (for the
moment) for the two 2.2kΩ, followed by the zener diodes,
with the cathode stripes all facing towards the bottom of
the board as shown. Next, fit schottky diodes D1-D4. Note
that D3 faces in the opposite direction to all the other diodes. Also, since the diode bodies are quite large, you will
have to be careful in bending the leads to fit the closely
spaced pads on the PCB.
Now solder IC1 in place, ensuring its pin 1 is in the correct location. You can use a socket, although we suggest you
Top and bottom sides of the controller PCB, before the H-bridge drivers are attached (they slot into the header pin sets on the
top side). While this single-sided board is ideal for home PCB makers, a double-sided version, which has all the links already
in place as the top side pattern, is available from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP. IC2 is not required if Pololu drivers are used.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 37
Part list - seat frame
Pedal frame / slider
2 800mm lengths 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (A)
2 520mm lengths 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (B)
4 300mm lengths 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (C)
1 320mm length 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (D)
2 150mm lengths 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (E)
1 135mm length 20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing (F)
1 400mm length 25x25x3mm steel angle (G)
2 25mm lengths 25x25x3mm steel angle (H)
1 500x340x1.6mm rectangle of aluminium chequer plate
(I)
2 800mm lengths of 30x30mm punched steel single slot
angle rail (J)
10 M6 x 30mm machine screws and hex nuts (for attaching
J to the slider frame).
Seat frame
2 583mm lengths of 25x25x3mm steel angle (K)
2 355mm lengths of 25x25x3mm steel angle (L)
1 75x145mm rectangle of 6mm steel plate (M)
1 524mm length of 25mm diameter steel tube (N)
2 280mm lengths of 30x5mm flat steel bar (O)
4 M10 x 25mm machine screws (to join O to L)
6 M10 hex nuts (P)
Main frame
1 750mm length of 40x40x1.6mm square steel tubing (Q)
1 650mm length of 40x40x1.6mm square steel tubing (R)
2 762mm lengths of 25x25x1.6mm square steel tubing (S)
2 300mm lengths of 25x25x3mm steel angle (T)
4 123mm lengths of 25x25x3mm steel angle (U)
2 142x100mm rectangles of 6mm steel plate (V)
1 215x100mm rectangle of 6mm steel plate (W)
|
not needed for 2DoF or 3DoF versions
~
Silicon Chip
Fasteners and Linkages
6 55mm lengths of M10 threaded rod (for casters) #
12 M10 domed-cap nuts #
16 M5 x 12mm machine screws (for linear bearings) |
2 M6 x 15mm self-tapping screws (for retaining wheel) #
1 150mm length of M10 threaded rod (to swivel base) #
1 140mm length of M10 threaded rod (to MDF base) |
2 130mm lengths of M10 threaded rod (to seat frame)
Bearings/wheels
8 M10 female swivel-head ball bearings
3 spherical insert ball bearings [NBR-SB201/12-40-22]
2 50mm diameter caster wheels (8)
1 heavy-duty swivel caster, 65x95mm minimum base size
(wheel removed) (9) #
1 steering universal joint or prop-shaft UJ (from any car
scrap yard) (for connecting the seat frame to the main
frame)
4 linear ball bearings with rails (SBR12UU [block] & SBR12250mm [rail]) (%) |
4 Carinya 40x40 zinc-plated brackets (Bunnings Cat
0046902)(<at>) |
not needed for 2DoF version; one only needed for 3DoF version
solder it directly as some pins are soldered on the top side.
Next, install the two 2.2kΩ resistors, which are mounted
vertically, followed by transistors Q1 and Q6, with their
flat faces orientated as shown.
Also, before soldering the diodes, test fit the nearby Mosfets to make sure they will not get in the way. You may need
to bend the diode leads a little to get them into a favourable
position, where they clear the Mosfet bodies.
Now solder the two 2-way terminal blocks in place, with
the wire entry holes facing towards the outside, followed
by the four Mosfets. As there are two different types, be
careful not to get them mixed up, and ensure their tabs
face as shown in Fig.14.
Before soldering them, it would be a good idea to attach
each pair to its heatsink, to ensure they line up correctly.
Insert the insulating layer between the two pairs, then
push them down as far as they will go and solder and trim
the pins. Finally, fit header socket CON1 to the underside
of the board, and it is ready for testing.
Once you’ve completed the modules (you will need one
for each degree of freedom that you are building into the
seat), plug them into the main board.
Note that the power supply terminals for this module are
reversed compared to the Pololu module, so you will have
to cross the wires over when you wire them up.
38
Swivel frame (|)
2 755mm lengths of 25x25x1.6mm square steel tubing (X)
1 700mm length of 40x40x1.6mm square steel tubing (Y)
1 350mm length of 40x40x1.6mm square steel tubing (Z)
1 305mm length of 40x40x1.6mm steel angle (2)
2 146mm lengths of 40x40x1.6mm steel angle (3)
4 40mm lengths of 45x45x5mm steel angle (4)
1 75x113mm rectangle of 3mm steel plate (5)
2 75x200mm rectangles of 3mm steel plate (6)
1 30x120mm rectangle of 3mm steel plate (7)
#
not needed for 2DoF version
Wiring it up
Luckily, this part is pretty straightforward. As you can
see from the photos, I mounted the power supply for my
rig at the back. I suggest you do the same. You will then
need to run some thick (~25A-rated) wires, or a similarly
rated figure-8 cable, from the supply up to the motor power terminals on the control board.
Next, run a set of 10A-rated (or more) figure-8 cable from
each pair of motor controller outputs to the appropriate
motor. Motors 1 & 2 are at front left and right respectively. Motor 3 (if fitted) is the yaw motor, and motor 4 is the
Fig.14: here’s how to fit the components to the double-sided
DIY H-bridge board. For clarity, the heatsinks, mounting
screws and insulating layer between the two pairs of
Mosfets are not shown here. Refer to the photos of the unit
for details on the heatsink mounting. It’s a pretty packed
board, so don’t be surprised if you have to bend a few
component leads to get everything to fit.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list - controller module
1 Dunnings 100x100x140mm angle bracket (Bunnings
1076757) |
Motors/power
2 12V DC Fiat X1/9 lights retractor motors with 40mm
radius action (roll)
2 24V DC garage sliding door motor with 40mm radius
action (surge/yaw) ~
(worm-drive motors can also be used but are more
expensive)
1 13.8V DC 40A power supply (Jaycar Cat MP3089)
2-4 100kΩ potentiometers (see text)
MDF pieces
1 445x225mm rectangle of 16mm MDF ($)
1 280x130mm rectangle of 16mm MDF ($)
1 150x200mm rectangle of 16mm MDF ($)
1 1100x800mm rectangle of 16mm MDF ($) (floor base) |
Other
1 Ghepardo fixed-back, five-way adjustable racing bucket seat
1 standard car seat slider mechanism (optional – see text)
1 set of Logitech G27 force feedback steering wheel and
pedals
Several metres of heavy-duty figure-8 cable
Several metres of medium or light-duty three-core (or more)
cable
Connectors, to suit motors
Total lengths of tube/angle/bar/rod
40x40x1.6mm square steel tubing: 1.1m
20x20x1.6mm square steel tubing: 4.6m
40x40x1.6 steel angle: 0.65m
25x25x3mm steel angle: 3.5m
30x5mm flat steel bar: 0.6m
M10 threaded rod: 1m
forward/back motor.
Each motor must be fitted with a potentiometer to sense
its shaft position. You need to wire the three connections
for each potentiometer back to CON12a-CON12d on the
controller board, ie, from motor 1 back to CON12a, motor
2 to CON12b etc.
There are many different ways to connect these pots to
the motors. Some motors have an extended shaft (for example, the two garage door motors I used). This allows
placing the pot on one side of the shaft and the lever on
the other end.
Note that the arm lever length should not exceed 4550mm pivot to pivot, or the motor torque requirements
may be too high. The RPM of a typical wiper motor will
be around 50 revs/min.
Wiper motors usually have the shaft extending only one
one side, which will require a different mounting.
The wiper motors unit pot uses a fork and spindle (a
slide type mechanism). This allows full 180° rotation. But
to avoid possible damage to the pots, I recommend opening
the pots and flattening the wiper arm stopper. (see Fig.15).
Additionally, do not attach any mechanical links yet – this
is to avoid sudden and dangerous movement of any one of
the actual chair frames.
In each case, the pot wiper is wired to the connector
siliconchip.com.au
1 single-sided PCB, code 11109191, 133.5 x 96.5m
3 6-pin headers (CON1,CON5,CON13)
5 2-pin headers (CON2-CON4,CON11,JP1)
1 14-pin header (CON6)
1 2-pin polarised header (CON7)
4 8-pin header sockets (CON8a-d; optional – for Pololu
motor drivers)
4 5-pin headers (CON9a-d; optional – for self-built motor
drivers)
5 3-pin headers (CON10,CON12a-d)
1 jumper shunt (JP1)
1 USB/serial adaptor (eg, CP2102-based; SILICON CHIP
ONLINE SHOP Cat SC3543)
1 6-pin female socket (for USB/serial adaptor)
2 2-way 5.08mm pitch screw terminal blocks [Altronics Cat
P2040/P2040A]
1 2.4in or 2.8in ILI9341-based colour LCD touchscreen
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP Cat SC3410]
2 short (~100mm) female-female jumper leads
14 long (~200mm) female-female jumper leads (for LCD
screen)
1 1m length of Bell wire, tinned copper wire or light-duty
hookup wire (not needed for double-sided PCB)
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX170F256D-I/PT microcontroller, QFP-44,
programmed with Micromite V2 firmware (IC1)
1 74LS14 hex Schmitt trigger inverter, DIP-14 (IC2)^
1 LM3940IT-3.3 3.3V 1A low-dropout regulator, TO-220
(REG1) [Jaycar Cat ZV1565]
1 5mm LED (LED1)
^Not needed
with Pololu
Capacitors
motor drivers
1 47µF 6V tantalum electrolytic
2 47µF 16V aluminium electrolytic
1 100nF MKT or ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W 5%)
1 47kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 470Ω
1 18Ω
Parts list – DIY H-bridge
H-bri dge
(per module, 2-4 required)
1 double-sided PCB, code 11109192, 54.5 x 23mm
1 5-pin header socket (CON1)
1 4-pin terminal block, or 2 2-pin terminal blocks (CON2)
2 small heatsinks (cut down from Jaycar HH8526)
1 piece of insulating material, 20 x 20mm (eg, presspahn or
stiff plastic)
2 M3 x 16mm machine screws, shakeproof washers and nuts
Semiconductors
1 74HC08 quad 2-input AND gate, DIP-14 (IC1)
2 BC546 100mA NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q1,Q6)
2 IRF4905 P-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q2,Q4)
2 CSD18534KCS N-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q3,Q5) [SC4177]
4 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diodes (D1-D4)
4 15V 1W zener diodes (ZD1-ZD4)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25V low-ESR electrolytic
Resistors (all 1/4W 5%)
2 3.6kΩ
2 2.2kΩ
Australia’s electronics magazine
2 1.5kΩ
2 160Ω
September 2019 39
Fig.15: to make
the pot wipers
continuously
variable, prise the
lugs holding the rear
cover on apart and
remove the stoppers
on both the pot cover
and the internal
workings.
pin that’s closest to CON5, the ICSP header, while the opposite ends of the pot tracks go to the other two pins. But
you need to be careful to connect these two connections
with the correct polarity, or else the motor will bump into
its end stops the first time it’s powered up.
To get this right, disconnect the motor wiring one at a
time and briefly power each from a 12V source so that they
rotate fully clockwise, then measure the resistance from
the wiper to each end.
Find the end which gives the highest resistance when
fully clockwise, and ensure that this end is wired to the
ground pin on CON12a-d. The ground pin is the one centre pin of each header, while +5V is at the right-hand end.
Also, make sure that you don’t get the motor wiring mixed
up; the motor which is wired to CON12a should be powered from the M1 outputs (CON8a or CON9a) and so on.
Wiper motors usually have a switch in the gearbox which
need to be bypassed in this application.
Wiring for all motors must be isolated from the motors
and frames; you should also make necessary arrangements
that take into accout that there are several parts which move
and could cause chafing later on.
The top side of
the completed
controller PCB with
the four Pololu H-Bridge
motor controllers in situ, with
heatsinks (eg, Jaycar HH8526)
attached.
Set-up and testing
You can now change the jumper leads from the Tx and
Rx pins of CON2 to go to CON4 rather than CON3, then
power the controller up by placing a shorting block on JP1
and plugging the USB cable into your PC.
After the splash screen has been shown and you can
see the main screen (shown in Screen2), briefly disconnect each motor from the power supply and apply 12V to
Motor 1 should move anti-clockwise about 45°. This
command should return it to centre:
Screen1: the initial splash screen which appears on the
LCD touchscreen when power is first applied, assuming
that the Micromite firmware and BASIC code has been
loaded onto the PIC32 chip.
Screen2: this shows you the current motor positions (POTx)
and desired motor positions (MOTx), along with the internal
temperature reading. Touch the limit percentage bars to
adjust the motor power for each axis.
40
Silicon Chip
each motor in each direction. Check that as the motor rotates clockwise, the relevant POTx reading on the screen
increases, and as it rotates anti-clockwise, the reading decreases. Check also that the temperature reading is correct.
Set the roll, surge and sway limits low, then connect all
the motors back to the main power supply and switch it
on. The motors should all move towards the centre, then
stop. If any of them are acting up, switch the power supply off and check their wiring, especially to CON12a-d.
Now open a terminal emulator program and connect to
the USB/serial port on your PC at 115,200 baud (or use
MMedit chat facility), then type the following sequence
and press Enter (you may need to copy and paste this
text into some terminal programs for it to work):
A<at>~~~Z
(That’s a capital A, the at symbol,
three tildes, and a capital Z).
A~~~~Z
(That’s a capital A, four tildes, and a
capital Z).
Repeat these commands, moving the <at> (at symbol) to
the right, to test the other motors, eg:
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s the electronics “works” – the (commercial) power supply on the left and the H-brdge controller on the right.
ing, flying and other simulators:
A~<at>~~Z
A~~<at>~Z
•
•
•
etc.
www.x-sim.de
www.xsimulator.net
http://bffsimulation.com
If that all works, then you’re ready to close the terminal
emulator, turn up the settings on the touchscreen, fire up
your simulator and give it a try!
Once you’ve finished testing, it’s up to you whether you
want to leave the controller board powered from the 5V
USB supply, via JP1, or rig up a 5V regulator to run the
controller off the 13.8V motor supply – or via some other
arrangement, like a 5V DC regulated plugpack.
To see just how expensive commercial equivalents of
this project are, check out the following links:
Useful links
Further information regarding the actual seat development and construction can be viewed on the following link:
The following websites are dedicated to simulations
which have developed accessible programs to extract the
physics data from many supported games, including driv-
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
www.pagnianimports.com.au
https://simxperience.com
www.inmotionsimulation.com
www.atomicmotionsystems.com
www.cxcsimulations.com
www.vrx.ca
www.xsimulator.net/community/marketplace/
2dof-3dof-optional-descriptions.81/
Changing the software
Screen3: this is the screen which allows you to save or load
those presets, depicted as three different types of vehicle.
siliconchip.com.au
The BASIC code includes two variables called PotLimMax and PotLimMin which allow the motor potentiometers to work at the centre of their movement, taking account of any possible small ‘overrun’ past the +90° and
-90° maximum angles.
PotLimMax is the required travel angle of rotation of the
pots (from 0 to 1), in this case, a full 180°, while PotLimMin is the value at the lowest point of the travel (-90° angle, again from 0 to 1). There are also offset variables (Brk1,
Brk2, Brk3 and Brk4) are used to limit or remove any minute motor movements due to pot variation when standing
still. These also assist in ‘powering-off’ the motors when
movement is not required.
You can control the most suitable axis strengths relating
to the type of simulation being run, by limiting the PWM
pulse width to a percentage of its maximum value, via the
touchscreen. These can be saved and reloaded in three
SC
presets (Screen3).
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 41
Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre
11-12 September 2019
Connect with the Electronics
Industry at Electronex
Australia’s only dedicated trade
event for the electronics industry returns to Melbourne in September.
ElectroneX – The Electronics Design and Assembly Expo will be staged
from 11-12 September and following
sell-out events in previous years at
Melbourne Park Function Centre, has
moved to the world class Melbourne
Convention and Exhibition Centre.
This year’s expanded event will see
more than 100 companies represented
at the Expo with more new product releases than ever before.
The SMCBA’s national conference
will also be held concurrently with the
Expo and will feature leading international industry experts as they present
a series of two day workshops to help
build the knowledge and skills of local engineers.
ElectroneX is a “must-attend” event
for decision makers, managers, engineers and industry enthusiasts who
are involved in designing or manufacturing products that utilise electronics or work in the electronics service
industry.
42
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Australian manufacturing companies have moved towards specialised
niche manufacturing over the past
decade and companies are now sourcing more products and solutions from
Australian based suppliers.
In addition to featuring a wide range
of electronic components, surface
mount and inspection equipment together with the latest test and measurement products and other ancillary
products and services, companies can
also discuss their specific requirements with contract manufacturers
that can design and produce turnkey
solutions for specific applications.
The last Expo in Melbourne in 2017
attracted around 1200 electronics design professionals including electronic
and electrical engineers, technicians
and management, along with OEM,
scientific, medical, IT and communications professionals, defence, government and service technicians.
Free seminars
A series of free seminars on the latest hot topics will also be held on the
show floor in the purpose built seminar theatre and all visitors are welcome
siliconchip.com.au
to attend. Trade and industry visitors
can register for free online at www.
electronex.com.au
The SMCBA Electronics Design &
Manufacture Conference which is held
concurrently with the Expo features
leading international experts Jasbir
Bath from the USA, Martin O’Hara
from the UK and Andy Kowalewski
to share information critical to the
successful design and development of
leading-edge electronic products and
systems engineering solutions.
Visit www.smcba.asn.au/conference
for full conference details or contact
Andrew Pollock at the SMCBA on 03
9571 2200.
SMCBA Conference
The 2019 Surface Mount & Circuit
Board Association (SMCBA) conference is again being held in conjunction with ElectroneX at the Melbourne
Convention and Exhibition Centre.
A comprehensive two-day workshop program is being presented by
Martin O’Hara from the UK, Jasbir Bath
from the USA and Andy Kowalewski.
Martin O’Hara is conducting a two
day workshop – “New Product Development and Introduction”.
This workshop will cover, from start
to finish the processes and procedures
for new product development and
introduction – everything you need
to know and implement from product conception to market introduction, to maximise the success of your
products.
Martin is a Chartered Engineer, Fellow of the Institution of Engineering
and from 2013 to 2016 was the National Strategy Manager for the ESPRC.
siliconchip.com.au
Jasbir Bath, who has over 25 years
of experience in research, design, development and implementation in the
areas of soldering, surface mount and
packaging technologies. is conducting a two day workshop – “Improving
Manufacturing Yield and Reliability”.
This workshop is being presented in six parts – Part 1: “Design for
Manufacturability and Reliability”,
Part 2: “Board Pad and Stencil Design, Soldering Materials, Board and
Component Surface Finishes and
Their Effect on Manufacturing Yield
and Reliability”, Part 3: “ Backward
and Forward Compatibility Assembly and Reliability, Low Silver and
Higher Reliability Lead-Free Solder
Alloys Used in Electronics Manufacturing”, Part 4: “Printing and Its Effect on Manufacturing Yield”, Part 5:
“Reflow, Wave and Rework Soldering
Process Optimization in Electronics
Manufacturing” and Part 6: “Other
DFR Considerations”.
With a technical background in avionics, covering HF, VHF and UHF airground-air and radio link communications, radar and navigational aids, and
a board designer for 39 years, Andy
Kowalewski is conducting a two day
workshop – “PCB Design”.
This is a comprehensive two-day
course covering many of the trade-offs
and design that make PCB design ever
more difficult. As technology evolves
in components, board fabrication and
board assembly, competent PCB designers and engineers need to stay in
tune with the industry in order to be
successful in bringing products to the
market on time, on budget and with a
minimum of development cost.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 43
Stand B10
Way to go,
The WAGO Group is an international, standard-setting supplier of electrical interconnection and automation products and interface electronics. The family-run
company is the world market leader and inventor of
spring pressure connection technology. WAGO has continued to grow since being founded in 1951, with a current worldwide workforce of around 8000 globally and
sales of €862 million in 2017.
WAGO products are used globally in power and process technology, building automation, machinery and
equipment, as well as industrial and transportation applications. They are trusted anywhere electrical conductors must be connected to each other or where complex
automation systems must be controlled. Here they have
continuously been proven to contribute to safety and the
reliable operation of devices and complete installations.
The WAGO Group consists of nine international production and main sales locations, 20 additional sales offices and the M&M Software specialist. In addition, there
are representatives in over 80 countries, giving the company a strong global presence.
WAGO’s new 221 Series COMPACT Splicing
Connectors comes in 6mm2
Easier, faster, safer: these three attributes characterize
WAGO’s 221 Series Splicing Connectors. WAGO’s 221
Series now offers a model for conductors up to 6mm2.
Previously, stranded or fine-stranded conductors up to
4mm2 were connected with WAGO’s 221 Series Splicing Connectors.
WAGO-I/O-SYSTEM 750 XTR
for Hazardous Areas
WAGO’s 750 XTR Series offers solutions for machines
and systems with regard to environmental conditions and
external interference factors, while providing the highest degree of flexibility. At temperatures from -40°C up
to 70°C, vibrations up to 5g, operating altitudes of up to
5000m above sea level or enhanced immunity to electromagnetic interference and other interference as per
EN60870-2-1.
CLOUD CONNECTIVITY –
Your Link to the Digital World
Recording, digitizing and linking data profitably – this
is the core concept behind Industry 4.0. As the interface between automation and information technology,
cloud connectivity meets this challenge. Installed on the
WAGO PFC Controllers, machine data can be transferred
via MQTT to the cloud, for example, Microsoft Azure,
Amazon Web Services, IBM Cloud, SAP Cloud and last
but not least WAGO Cloud, where the information can
be aggregated and used for analysis. This capability creates true added value for your company – whether for
increasing the efficiency of in-house production, implementing energy management or developing additional
end-customer services.
44
Silicon Chip
Open for your digital future
Digitalisation offers companies the great opportunity
to shape their future dynamically and successfully. However, the digital transformation also entails many challenges. Networking, analytics, increased productivity and
new business models are all challenges that have to be
faced on a daily basis. There are no hard-and-fast rules for
handling the digital transformation successfully. Therefore, forward-thinking companies need solutions tailored
to meet their specific system requirements.
Open and Easy Automation with WAGO‘s
PFC200 Controller
The second generation of WAGO‘s PFC200 Controller
is significantly more powerful and has a larger memory.
It enables both traditional PLC and open Linux programming in high-level languages. That’s why it’s the first
choice for customers from both worlds, making programming #openandeasy.
WAGO 221 Sortimo L-Boxx Mini-Splicing
Connector Sets up to 6 mm2
The 221 4mm2 and 6mm2 are now available in two different L-Boxx Mini sets. The sets include an assortment of
WAGO‘s splicing connectors for different types of wires
and a range of cross sections, including the 221 Series.
In the Sortimo L-BOXX, the splicing connectors always
remain properly sorted, ready and waiting at the right
place when you need them. This provides for space-saving and practical storage of both the splicing connectors
and the case itself.
More power on your PCB
WAGO’s line of PCB terminal blocks gives a comprehensive product portfolio that perfectly meets the needs
of today’s power electronics. Combining compact design
and a high current-carrying capacity with all the advantages of WAGO’s Push-in CAGE CLAMP connection technology, WAGO’s new terminal blocks simplify wiring and
maximise PCB design flexibility.
Both parallel and perpendicular too
WAGO’s power electronics portfolio includes six terminal block families. The PCB terminal blocks accommodate 4mm², 6mm² and 16mm² conductors, are rated up
to 1000 V/76A and can be operated via operating tool or
lever. They are equipped with Push-in CAGECLAMP®
technology for all conductor types, allowing solid and ferruled conductors to be simply pushed into the unit. The
new terminal blocks terminate conductors both horizontally and vertically to the PCB. Furthermore, they can be
tested both parallel and perpendicular to conductor entry.
WAGO Pty Ltd Australia & New Zealand
2 – 4 Overseas Drive, Noble Park VIC 3174 Australia
Tel: (03) 8791 6300 Fax: (03) 9701 0177
Email: sales.anz<at>wago.com Web: www.wago.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
STAND B10
MORE POWER ON
YOUR PCB
PCB TERMINAL BLOCKS FOR POWER ELECTRONICS
WAGO’s line of PCB terminal blocks gives a comprehensive product portfolio that perfectly meets the needs of today’s power
electronics. Combining compact design and a high current-carrying capacity with all the advantages of WAGO’s Push-in CAGE
CLAMP® connection technology, WAGO’s new terminal blocks simplify wiring and maximize PCB design flexibility.
WAGO’s power electronics portfolio includes six terminal block families.
The PCB terminal blocks accommodate 4 mm², 6 mm² and 16 mm²
conductors, are rated up to 1000 V/76 A and can be operated via operating
tool or lever. They are equipped with Push-in CAGE CLAMP® technology for all
conductor types, allowing solid and ferruled conductors to be simply pushed
into the unit. The new terminal blocks terminate conductors both horizontally
and vertically to the PCB. Furthermore, they can be tested both parallel and
perpendicular to conductor entry.
SAVE SPACE ON THE PCB
Beyond their nominal cross-section, the PCB terminal blocks may connect
solid and fine-stranded conductors up to the next larger cross-section size.
This advantage saves space on the PCB and reduces device connection
costs. WAGO’s 2624, 2626 and 2636 Series PCB Terminal Blocks are ideal for
space-restricted applications. Tool operation is performed parallel to
conductor entry so that the clamping points can be easily reached – even if
individual components are tightly packaged on the PCB. This makes these
new 2624, 2626 and 2636 Series PCB Terminal Blocks ideal for compact
device connections and panel feedthrough applications.
Advantages:
• Comprehensive product range:
0.2 … 25 mm² (24–4 AWG)
• Push-in CAGE CLAMP® termination of both
solid and ferruled conductors
• Wider conductor range and higher current
carrying capacity
• Conductor connection and mating direction
both horizontal and vertical to the PCB
• Testing both parallel and perpendicular to
conductor entry
EASY-TO-USE LEVER
WAGO has developed the 2604, 2606 and 2616 Series PCB
Terminal Blocks that enable intuitive and tool-free operation
via lever. The blocks’ lever is incredibly user-friendly because
the respective latch positions (open/closed) can be clearly
identified. When the clamping point is closed, the ease of
movement becomes a tremendous advantage: the force of
the open spring ensures that the lever closes – even at low
force. This intellgent design always ensures a secure
connection of the clamping point for all types of conductors,
and virtually eliminates errors due to misuse.
siliconchip.com.au
For more information visit:
www.wago.com/au/electrical-interconnections/discover-pcb-connection
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 45
sales.anz<at>wago.com | (03) 8791 6300 | www.wago.com.au
WAGO is a registered trademark of WAGO Verwaltungsgesellschaft mbH.
LEACH: Your reliable partner for electronic contract manufacturing
In China, there are
thousands of contract
manfacturers providing PCBA/OEM/
ODM services (most of
them are in Guangdong province).
Because many factories focus on
consumer products, they need huge quantities to keep
their SMT lines running for 24 hours. The Chinese market has a large demand for consumer products.
But the risks are also high: so many companies develop very fast, then disappear suddenly.
Regular SILICON CHIP readers would recognise the
name “LEACH”, a Shenzen, China-based company who
advertise regularly in the magazine.
LEACH was founded in 1999. It is not a huge factory
but has a total of three SMT lines, two through-hole
lines and one box assembly line. Since they focus on
industrial and commercial products, they accept any
quantity of orders. Their work lines can switch a maximum of 25 types of boards per day.
With a stable and capable team of 88 employees, all
multi-skilled, LEACH can purchase from global suppliers and deliver to the entire world.
LEACH focuses on industrial products and can accept high mix/low volume. They have engineers to help
with lay-out/DFM and provide both full-turnkey service
as well as partial-turnkey builds.
During the past 19 years, LEACH has accumulated
knowledge, expertise and experience in providing electronic manufacturing services.
From the concept of a new product to the delivery to
customers around the globe, LEACH supports you.
Australian company’s FAQs:
Have a new idea for a new product? LEACH can work
with you in the new electronic design.
Do you need to identify the right and cost-effective
components? LEACH has the knowledge of the best suppliers in China and in Asian countries.
Looking for an efficient and reliable manufacturer?
LEACH can provide a high-quality product at the right
cost.
Do you have low volume and high mix of products?
LEACH is the partner to be associated with.
Do you need to assure that the product is zero defect?
LEACH will test every item before shipment.
Do you need to provide the required logistics for global
distribution? LEACH will take this task for you.
Call in and discuss your organisation’s particular requirements with LEACH at ElectroneX 2019.
You’ll find LEACH on Stand D16. And if you can’t make
it to ElectroneX 2019, you’ll find many of your questions
answered on their website: www.leach-pcba.com
Mastercut
Expand their
Stencil range
with DEK
Vectorguard
High Tension
Stand A15
Mastercut have expanded their suite of stencil products with
the introduction of the new DEK Vectorguard High Tension reusable frame.
Until now, the Vectorguard Blue was the most popular frame system as it provided high print performance and fast stencil changeover. The thin shims allow for significantly reduced storage space
requirements too.
The new High Tension version of the Vectorguard frame utilises
the same shims but the foil tension is 45% greater than a standard
stencil. This provides a reduction in “rippling” and aids paste release for fine and ultra fine pitch components. Mastercut’s Director
of Marketing, Bill Dennis said “the High Tension system has been
developed by Assembly Systems (ASM) in response to the market
calling for solutions to the challenges of SMT manufacturing, with
ever increasing uptake of fine pitch components in PCB design. Initial interest has been strong and we look forward to a solid uptake.”
The DEK High Tension frame is backward-compatible with standard shims so the advantages can be applied to existing stencils.
Mastercut will display the new High Tension frame alongside
other framing options at Electronex 2019.
46
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 47
STAND NO: D33 AT
Rohde&Schwarz NGL200 Power Supply Series
Thanks to their high accuracy and fast load recovery
time, the R&S NGL200 power supplies are perfect for
challenging applications. Their two-quadrant architecture allows them to function as both a source and a sink
to simulate batteries and loads. Their short recovery times
enable them to handle fast load changes that occur, for
example when mobile communications devices switch
from sleep mode to transmit mode.
Some of the benefits
and key features include
fast load regulation, minimum residual ripple and
low noise, galvanically isolated and floating
channels.
With a display resolution of up to 6½ digits
when measuring voltage, current and power, the R&S
NGL200 power supplies are perfect for characterising devices that have low power consumption in standby mode
and high current in full load operation. In many cases,
an additional digital multimeter is no longer necessary.
The R&S NGL200 power supplies allow for easy operation with their high-resolution touchscreen, colour
coding of operating modes,
QuickArb function, EasyRamp function and save
and recall instrument settings.
The R&S NGL200 power
supplies are the right choice
for challenging applications. They are used in R&D
labs and integrated into production test systems.
Electrolube on show at ElectroneX (Stand D9) . . . plus a seminar
Electrolube, a division of H.K. Wentworth Limited, is
a leading manufacturer of specialist chemicals for electronics, automotive and industrial manufacturing.
Core product groups include conformal coatings, contact lubricants, thermal management materials, cleaning
solutions, encapsulation resins and maintenance and service aids.
Electrolube, the global electro-chemicals manufacturer
for electronics, automotive and industrial manufacturing,
will present a technical seminar at ElectroneX Australia,
which takes place on the 11th and 12th September at the
Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. The seminar
will be presented by Beth Turner MSc, Development Chemist for Electrolube’s Conformal Coatings Division, who will
provide a comprehensive overview of next generation conformal coatings for harsh environments as well as a useful
insight into coating vs encapsulation.
The seminar will focus on protecting electronics from
the harshest environments with new generation conformal coatings.
Visitors will have a great opportunity to learn about the
different types of coatings available, for instance, how to
speed up production dramatically with next-generation
UV cure products, as well as explore the varying levels of
protection that different coatings provide.
Beth will also highlight examples of how to select the
most suitable product for your application by providing
an insight into how Electrolube has provided collaborative solutions for a number of different applications with
their global customers.
Visitors will also gain a deeper understanding of when it
is better to use an encapsulation resin rather than a coating,
the difference between these two mediums and learn more
about a new generation 2K conformal coating that encom48
Silicon Chip
passes the same features as a resin but in a coating format.
Please visit www.electrolube.com for more information
about Electrolube’s range of specialist electro-chemicals.
10
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Australia’s electronics magazine
EL_AUS_Conformal_87x120mm_072019_prepress
29 July 2019 13:01:43
siliconchip.com.au
ALL OPTIONS. ONE PRICE.
LIMITED TIME.
COMPLETE SOLUTIONS.
Until 31 December 2019 you can buy high quality Rohde & Schwarz spectrum analyzers,
power supplies, power analyzers and oscilloscopes from our Value Instruments range fully
optioned with big cost savings.
Value Instruments from Rohde & Schwarz are precise, reliable and universal measuring
products that are easy to use and combine practical features with excellent measurement
characteristics.
Designed for users who want high quality products at a good price.
More information about our range is available online at:
https://www.rohde-schwarz.com/complete-promotion
Contact: sales.australia<at>rohde-schwarz.com
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip full page Value Inst 181x244 New Sep19.indd 1
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 49
31/07/2019 12:03:53 PM
Altronics Distributors <at> Electronex:
you’ll find them on stand D6
New IX Series pushbutton: ultrawaterproof and highly customisable
Powertran toroidal transformers
Control Devices is the official
APEM distributor for Australia and New Zealand and is
pleased to promote the new
IX Series push button, the
new addition to the I series.
The IX Series combines the
high qualities of the IP and IA
series with a backlit switch.The
IX series also features a flexible
elastomer membrane actuator,
with no space between the actuator
and Ø12mm compact bushing, guaranteeing an IP69K panel sealing for an ultra-waterproof feature. This provides excellent resistance to frost, sand and other contaminants.
The ultra-thin design has a great ergonomic advantage
with a tight matrix mounting. It is highly customisable,
with a choice from nine different actuator colours, illuminated markings with five different LED colours and
many different symbols. Illumination can also be limited
to just the symbol, or the entire membrane actuator. IX
series is recommended for harsh environments and all
key markets of material handling, agriculture machinery, defence and more.
Contact the Control Devices sales team at ElectroneX
2019 (stand C6) or call them direct for further information: Unit 17, 69 O’Riordan Street Alexandria NSW 2015
Tel: (02) 9330 1700 Fax: 02 8338 9001
Email: sales<at>controldevices.net
Web: www.controldevices.net
Altronics offers a range of toroidal transformers which are certified and approved as per AS/NZS61558.2.6 standards. These
Toroidal Transformers are available in various voltage and current
ratings starting from 30VA to 500VA.
New finger touch LED switches
The new touch LED switches are offered in stainless steel body
with red or green coloured LEDs.
The two models will be available in momentary or alternate action. These LED switches are designed for 50 million cycles and
are IP68, IP69K rated for industrial applications. These finger touch
switches require a mounting hole size of 19mm and have a temperature range of -25 to +55°C.
New lead-free touchscreen 100W soldering station
The new T 2460A high power, temperature-controlled soldering
station with touchscreen will feature on their stand. This soldering
station incorporates a special intelligent microchip control design.
It has been developed to meet the present and future lead-free
soldering needs of the electronic assembly industry and is suitable
for work on SMD electronics. The ergonomic handle with a short
distance between heating element and tip allows very fast heat up
time and quick heat dispersion. The sensor and heat transfer technology employed ensures precise temperature regulation required
for making consistent, reliable soldering connections.
The temperature is maintained within ±3°C.
Have a chat with the Altronics Distributors team on stand D6;
or call Altronic Distributors on 1300 780 999; or send an email to
sydneywholesale<at>altronics.com.au; or visit their their web site:
www.altronics.com.au
LAUNCH OF NEW RIGOL 2GHz MSO
AT ELECTRONEX 2019 – Stand A1
Emona Instruments will launch the new Rigol
MSO8000 series 2GHz oscilloscopes at ElectroneX at
stand A1.
The MSO8000 series digital oscilloscopes are a highperformance range design based on RIGOL UltraVision
II technology and Rigol’s in-house designed PHOENIX
chipset.
www.emona.com.au
Sydney-MelbourneBrisbane-Adelaide-Perth
The MSO8000 series offer bandwidth up to 2GHz, 4
channels with 16 digital channels, up to 10GS/s sampling rate, 500Mpts memory depth and a high waveform
capture rate of 600,000 waveforms per second.
With a 10.1-inch capacitive multi-touch screen, the
MSO8000 series also integrates seven independent instruments into one:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
digital oscilloscope
16-channel logic analyser
spectrum analyser
digital voltmeter
6-digit frequency counter and totaliser
arbitrary waveform generator (option)
protocol analyser (option)
The MSO8000 series also support real-time eye diagram measurement and jitter analysis, making the unit
suitable for a wide variety of R & D applications.
See the MSO8000 DSO – and much more – at the
Emona Instruments Stand (A1) at ElectroneX 2019 – or
see their website for local contact details.
50
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ontrol
evices
Unit 17, 69 O’Riordan Street
ALEXANDRIA NSW 2015
AUSTRALIA
Excellence in Engineering
T: 02 9330 1700
F: 02 8338 9001
Joins our extensive
product range.
PRODUCTS
Control Devices is pleased to be the newly appointed distributor of Herga Technology for
Australia, New Zealand and South-East Asia. Welcoming Herga Technology, the leading
UK designer and manufacturer of footswitches, hand controls and sensing solutions for
the Medical, Industrial and Commercial markets.
Producing durable and ergonomic controls to enhance performance and product yield.
The range covers single or multi-pedal controls in ergonomic designs that are available
with electrical/electronic, pneumatic, Bluetooth® wireless and USB switching
technologies. With customisation options for switch specifications, electrical connections,
mechanical fixings, colours and logos, application areas include industrial, business and
domestic machinery switching as well as medical grade switching and sensing.
FOOTSWITCHES FOR MEDICAL APPLICATIONS
Herga consistently provides medical grade footswitches and hand
controls that meet customer’s requirements. The products are certified
to ISO13485 and approved to IEC 60601 medical standards. Footswitches
offers hands-free operation which can lower the risk of infection
and contamination in comparison to hand controls. Herga can
provide footswitch solutions for efficient hospital bed handling,
operating theatres, doctor surgeries or dental chairs. These
Footswitches
Palm Switches
Bellows
Air Switches
Pressure Switches
Vacuum Switches
Infra Red Switches
Hand controls
Micro Switches
Bluetooth Devices
APPLICATIONS
Medical/Dental
Industrial
Commercial
Lifestyle
Custom
footswitches provide maximum standards of ergonomic
comfort and convenience.
Contact Control Devices Sales team today for further information on our products.
Our Partnered Products
Visit us at
STAND C6
Melbourne 11-12 Sept 2019
www.controldevices.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
sales<at>controldevices.net
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 51
The Micromite
Explore-28
The 28-pin Micromite has been used in many of our projects, and with good
reason. It is a low-cost, powerful microcontroller which allows you to create
advanced devices with minimal effort. Now the Explore-28 will make your
life even easier. It’s a small plug-in module with the same powerful PIC plus
a USB socket for comms and programming, giving you everything you need
to get started with the Micromite in one handy package.
By Geoff Graham#
T
he Micromite is a high-performance 32-bit microcontroller
which can be programmed in
a friendly BASIC programming language.
It has a lot of built-in capabilities including a variety of communications
protocols (I2C, SPI, serial etc), the ability to easily interface to many devices
(LCD screens, GPS modules, temperature sensors etc). And it’s really easy
to learn how to use it, too.
To get started with the Micromite,
you just need a programmed chip,
which you can then plug into a breadboard.
This is not hard to do, but there is a
bit of fiddling about to be done before
you can start programming the chip.
Many readers would prefer a pre-assembled module that can be immediately put to use.
That is the essence of the Explore-28. You can plug it into a
USB port on your laptop and in
a few minutes, have a simple program up and running.
For readers who have followed
the Micromite story, the Explore-28
combines the 28-pin Micromite Mk2
(January 2015; www.siliconchip.com.
au/Article/8243) with the Microbridge
interface (May 2017; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/10648).
52
Silicon Chip
Another way to think about it is
that it is a bit like the Micromite LCD
Backpack V2 (May 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10652) but without the
LCD, and in a much smaller package.
The whole module is only a little bit
larger than a 28-pin DIL IC package but
it packs a lot of hardware, including:
• A 28-pin Micromite pre-programmed
with the latest MMBasic interpreter.
• A USB-to-serial interface, which allows you to plug the Explore-28 into
your computer and immediately
start programming.
• A PIC32 programmer, so that you
can update the BASIC interpreter
whenever a new version is released.
• A power supply with a
# http://geoffg.net
Australia’s electronics magazine
4-16V input range and the ability to
supply up to 150mA at 3.3V (plus
5V, when powered from USB) for
external circuitry.
This means that if you purchase a
pre-assembled Explore-28 module,
you can immediately start experimenting with it. You do not need to source
the microcontroller, program the firmware, setup a breadboard, etc. It is a fully assembled and ready to go package.
It is interesting to compare the Explore-28 to the Commodore 64 from
1982, which also came with a built-in
BASIC interpreter and was the most
popular computer in the 80s. Many
millions were sold worldwide, for
around US $600 each.
The Explore-28 is fifty times
faster, with much more memory
and costs about US $20.
While they clearly have different end uses, this still illustrates how far modern
semiconductor technology
has progressed.
The Explore-28 printed circuit board and concept was
developed by two Micromite enthusiasts in New Zealand: Graeme
Rixon and Robert Rozee. It can be
purchased as a kit of parts from SILICON CHIP, or as a completely assembled module from Graeme’s website
siliconchip.com.au
– see the last page of this article
for details.
Graeme Rixon also offers a full
construction pack, which you can
download from his website. This
includes the PCB Gerber files,
parts list, firmware etc.
So, you can get your own PCBs
made and build your Explore-28
modules from scratch if you wish
Connections
Explore-28 Features
• Complete microcontroller module with USB interface and power supply
• Programmed in BASIC, with 60KB program space and 50KB RAM for variables
• 19 I/O pins with 10 capable of being used as analog inputs
• Supports communications protocols including async serial, I2C, SPI and Dallas OneWire
• Support for special devices such as temperature sensors, keypads, IR remote controls etc
• Full support for touch-sensitive LCD panels up to 3.6in (9.2cm) diagonal
•
The Explore-28 has the same
•
‘form factor’ as the Arduino Nano,
•
which means that breakout boards
•
designed for the Nano will suit
the Explore-28. But the two are
quite different in a programming
sense; the Micromite is vastly more
powerful and is programmed in BASIC, not C/C++.
The pin-out of the Explore-28 is
shown in Fig.1. Essentially, it mimics
the pins on the 28-pin DIP version of
the Micromite, except pin 20 which is
not present. The module also includes
two extra pins at the bottom, labelled
+5V, which can be used to feed power
in or out.
When the Explore-28 is plugged into
a USB port, it will power itself from
the USB 5V supply, and that voltage
appears on the +5V pins. This is useful if you want to power some other
devices from 5V.
You can also power the Explore-28
by connecting an external power
source to either of the 5V pins. The
input can range from 4V to 16V, so
for example, you could power the Ex-
Embedded controller features such as sleep, control over clock speed and watchdog timer
Built-in PIC32 programmer for updating the firmware
Runs from 4-16V <at> 50mA
Compact size: 40mm long, 19mm wide and 8mm tall (without header pins)
plore-28 from a 12V battery.
But note that if you are using an external power source, you cannot plug
the Explore-28 into your computer’s
USB port at the same time. The two
power supplies will conflict and possibly damage your USB port or computer.
Secondly, if you are powering the
Explore-28 from a car battery, you will
need to include extra circuitry to protect it from the excessive voltage spikes
that can be found in an automotive
electrical system.
The Micromite chip itself requires
a 3.3V supply, and this is provided by
the onboard regulator. This voltage is
made available on pin 13 so that you
can power external components that
require 3.3V.
Up to 150mA can be drawn from
this pin; however, you will need to
make sure that this does not cause the
regulator to overheat and shut down
Fig.1: the Explore-28 has 19 I/O pins with 10 that can be used as analog inputs.
Other connections include a 3.3V output, ground and two pins which can be a
5V output or external power input (4-16V). ANA means analog I/O capable, DIG
means digital. The other notations refer to the special capabilities of each pin –
see the “Micromite User Manual” for a full description.
siliconchip.com.au
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(particularly with high input voltages).
USB/serial interface
The Explore-28 includes a
PIC16F1455 microcontroller, which
is programmed to act as both a USBto-serial interface and as a PIC32 programmer (for updating the Micromite
firmware).
This is called the “Microbridge” and
when it is acting as a USB-to-serial interface, it creates a virtual serial port
on your computer. This acts like a normal serial port, but it works over USB.
As mentioned above, we introduced
the Microbridge in the May 2017 issue
of SILICON CHIP, and it is used in the later versions of the Micromite LCD Backpack (V2 [May 2017; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/10652] and V3 [August 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11764]).
The Microbridge connects your computer to the Micromite’s serial console.
This is the main programming interface
to the Micromite and you can use it to
set options, enter programs, run them,
get feedback from running programs
and also receive data.
If you’re running Windows, it will
automatically create a virtual serial interface when the Explore-28 is plugged
into a USB socket on your computer.
This appears as a COM port, usually
with a high number such as COM5 or
COM21.
On Windows 7 and earlier versions,
a device driver may be required (see
siliconchip.com.au/link/aalb), but
Windows 8 and 10 already have the
driver built in.
You can check the COM number that
Windows allocated to the Explore-28
by going into Device Manager and looking for a new device listed under Serial
Ports, as illustrated in Fig.2.
The Linux kernel and MacOS operSeptember 2019 53
An introduction to the Mighty Micromite
The Micromite was designed and develped in Australia and is now
popular around the world. We have covered the Micromite in many previous articles but in case you haven’t seen those, here is a quick rundown.
The Micromite is based on the Microchip PIC32, which is a high-performance 32-bit microcontroller. While this chip as supplied is powerful,
it is not that easy to write programs for it (the manuals run to over a thousand pages!) and the standard programming languages used on it are assembler, C or C++. These languages and the programming software are
complex and require experience to use properly.
For the average hobbyist, the Micromite firmware makes programming
much easier. It’s loaded into the flash memory of the PIC32 and turns the
chip into a Micromite. The Micromite firmware insulates you from the complexities of the underlying silicon, while still allowing you to use its features.
To program the Micromite, you use the BASIC programming language,
which is designed to be easy for beginners and allows you to get started
almost immediately.
The BASIC language
The following is an elementary introduction to Micromite programming.
We published a comprehensive four-part article series on programming the
Micromite in the February, March, May and June 2017 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/311). So refer to those articles for more detailed instruction.
The Micromite version of BASIC is called MMBasic (short for MicroMite BASIC) which is loosely based on the Microsoft BASIC interpreter
that was popular years ago. That it is “interpreted” means that the firmware reads through your program line-by-line, executing each command
as it finds them.
BASIC (an acronym which stands for Beginner’s All-purpose Symbolic
Instruction Code) was initially developed by Dartmouth College in the USA
for teaching programming and therefore emphasises ease-of-use. BASIC is
also a powerful language, and it became popular in the 80s and 90s with
the introduction of small computers such as the Commodore 64, Apple
II etc. These days, it is still used in some large commercial data systems
(usually running Pick Basic).
BASIC program execution starts at the top of the program and continues until it runs off the bottom or hits an END command. Generally, there
is one command per line, although you can have more if you wish, each
separated by the colon (:) character.
A command can be something like PRINT which will output some text
to the console, PIN() which will set the state of an output pin, or SERVO
which will control a servo motor.
Decisions within the program are made using the IF…THEN command.
So, for example, your program can include something like:
IF t > 30 THEN PRINT “too high”
Your program can also run commands in loops. For example:
FOR nbr = 1 to 10
PRINT nbr
NEXT nbr
This will display the numbers from one to ten.
To help newcomers to the Micromite and BASIC programming, we have
a tutorial titled “Getting Started with the Micromite”. This begins with the
basics then takes you through advanced programming, input/output, communications protocols, and much more. It is recommended reading for
anyone starting with the Micromite and can be downloaded for free from
the SILICON CHIP Shop.
Micromite input/output
The Micromite is intended to be a controller that can be embedded in
something like a burglar alarm, reticulation controller etc. In this type of
54
54 S
Silicon Chip
role, its ability to use the I/O pins to control external devices is critical.
An I/O pin refers to the physical pin on the Micromite chip. On the Explore-28, these are routed to pin headers on the edge of the module, with
the same numbering.
So, when you refer to a pin number in your program, that is both the
physical pin on the chip and the pin header number.
In MMBasic, you configure an I/O pin on the chip using the SETPIN
command and this defines the pin as a digital input, digital output, analog
input etc.
For example, if pin 2 on the chip has been defined as an analog input,
the function PIN(2) will read the voltage on pin number 2. You could use
it like this:
PRINT PIN(2) and you would have a simple voltmeter.
To read the state of a pin configured as a digital input, you use the same
function, but in that case, it will return zero for a low voltage and one for
voltage high. You can set the output level of a pin configured as a digital
output by assigning a value to PIN(). For example, this will set the output
on pin 24 to a logic high (3.3V):
PIN(24) = 1
There are many other things that you can do with the Micromite’s I/O pins,
including measuring frequency, timing, generating square waves and more.
Special device support
A great feature of the Micromite is that it has built-in support for many
external devices like temperature and humidity sensors, keypads, real-time
clocks and servos. For example, using the IR command, you can receive
commands from an infrared remote control.
This is easy to do, and it adds flair (and utility) to your project when you
can control it by pressing a button on a remote control.
As another example, you can connect a low-cost ultrasonic distance
sensor to the Micromite and with one function, read the distance to an
object in centimetres.
Measuring temperature and humidity is just as easy; MMBasic will
query the sensor for you and return the temperature in degrees Celsius
and humidity in %RH.
Perhaps the most outstanding feature of the Micromite is its ability to
control a touch-sensitive LCD panel. The Micromite can display text and
graphics and respond to touch inputs on the panel’s face.
We have used this feature in many projects such as the DAB+/FM/AM
Tuner (January-March 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/330) and the LabQuality GPS Frequency Reference (October & November 2018; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/326).
Communications protocols
There are many modules and chips that you can buy to measure anything from air quality to acceleration. These all send their data via some
communication protocol, usually serial, and the Micromite supports the
four main protocols that are in use:
• Asynchronous serial, which is used by computers, lab equipment and
GPS modules.
• I2C, which is used by gas sensors, real-time clocks and many other chips.
• SPI, which is used by accelerometers, memory chips, electronic compasses etc.
• Dallas One-Wire, which is mostly used for temperature sensors.
GPS modules are particularly valuable. These days, they are amazingly cheap ($15-35) and they will give you your precise location, altitude,
speed, heading and the exact time.
Using the Micromite’s serial interface, it is easy to retrieve this information and they open up a world of exciting projects that can be built.v
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electronics magazine
magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: when the Explore-28 is plugged
into a Windows computer, it is
allocated a virtual serial port number
by the operating system. You can check
what COM number was allocated by
going into Device Manager and looking
for a new device listed under Serial
Ports (COM5 in this example).
done by pressing ALT-B, and this has
the same effect as if the power to the
Micromite was cycled.
Programming example
Fig.3: when you have
connected to the virtual serial
port created by the Explore-28,
you will see the MMBasic
command prompt (“>”), as
shown here. At this point, you
can try out commands, set
options, enter programs and
run them.
ating systems usually do not need any
special configuration and, as an example, under Linux Mint, the Explore-28
normally appears as /dev/ttyACM0.
Accessing the Micromite console
When you plug the Explore-28
into your computer, the LED marked
“PWR” (LED1) will illuminate, to
show that it is powered.
To access the Micromite’s console,
you need to run a terminal emulator
on your computer.
This takes the key presses that you
make and sends them down the serial interface to the Micromite, while
also displaying any responses from
the Micromite.
For Windows, you have several
choices. We recommend Tera Term
(http://tera-term.en.lo4d.com/), but
there are many other terminal emulators to choose from, with some specially written for the Micromite (see
the panel titled “Micromite resources”).
The Micromite’s console defaults to
a speed of 38,400 baud, so all you need
to do is configure your terminal emulator for the correct COM port number
and this baud rate.
Then, when you press Enter, you
should see the Micromite command
prompt (a greater than symbol: “>”),
as shown in Fig.3.
At this point, you have full control
of the Micromite for entering commands, setting options etc.
You can experiment by typing
“PRINT 1/7” and pressing Enter. The
Micromite will return the result of dividing 1 by 7, then display the command prompt again.
This is called ‘command mode’ and
siliconchip.com.au
it allows you to try out most BASIC
commands at the command prompt. It
is handy for testing commands while
you are learning the language.
Note that when you type something
on the console or the Micromite sends
some data to your PC, the LED marked
“MODE” (LED2) will briefly flash to
indicate that data is being sent over
the virtual serial port.
The tactile pushbutton near the
LEDs (switch S1) is used to put the Microbridge into its programming mode
(more about that later).
A handy feature of the Microbridge
is that you can reset the chip by sending a break signal over the virtual serial interface. In Tera Term, this is
We mentioned how easy it is to get
started with the Explore-28, so here is
a short tutorial to illustrate that point.
For a beginner, the best method of
entering a program into the Micromite
is to use the Micromite’s built-in fullscreen editor.
This is fully documented in the
Micromite User Manual, but to get
started, all you need to know is that
the arrow keys on your keyboard will
move the cursor around the text and
the backspace key will delete the character before the cursor.
At the command prompt, type
“EDIT” followed by the Enter key. This
will take you into the Micromite’s editor. Then, enter this short program:
SETPIN 15, DOUT
DO
PIN(15) = 1
PAUSE 500
PIN(15) = 0
PAUSE 500
LOOP
To save this program, press the F1
key or CTRL-Q (which does the same
thing). This will return you to the
command prompt. Then, to run the
program, type “RUN” and press enter.
This program toggles the voltage on
pin 15 of the Explore-28 from zero to
3.3V and then back again every second,
and continues doing it forever. You can
test this by probing pin 15 with a voltmeter, and you should see the voltage
jumping up and down at 1Hz.
While the program is running, you
will not see the command prompt in
the terminal emulator. This is because
the Micromite is now busy, but you
can regain control by pressing CTRL-C.
This is the break key and it will interrupt any running program and return control to the command prompt,
so that you can edit the program or
enter other commands.
Circuit description
The Explore-28 is just a little larger
than the original 28-pin Micromite
in a standard dual inline plastic
(DIP) package. But it has many more
features including a USB-to-serial
interface, onboard PIC32 programmer
and a 3.3V regulator.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The circuit of the Explore-28 is
shown in Fig.4. As you can see, it
isn’t terribly complex. It consists of
three main components: IC1, the 28pin PIC32 microcontroller (the Micromite); IC2, the PIC16F1455 (Microbridge) which provides the USB interface; and a voltage regulator to provide
September 2019 55
the 3.3V supply (REG1).
The PIC32 used for the Micromite
(IC1) is in a 28-pin surface-mounting
package, with most of its pins going directly to the header pins on the edge of
the board (CON1-CON3). The 10µF capacitor on pin 20 is critical and must be
a high-quality multilayer ceramic type.
It is used to stabilise the chip’s internal
1.8V regulator, and if it is missing or
the wrong type is used, the Micromite
will not work.
The only Micromite pins which do
not go directly to a corresponding pin
on CON1-CON3 are: pin 11, the serial
data out line, which goes via a 1.5kΩ
resistor in order to protect IC1 if an external device attempts to drive it above
+3.3V or below 0V (eg, a raw RS-232
signal); and pin 20 (VCAP), as this micro pin is already connected to the required capacitor.
Several of the micro’s pins also connect to the Microbridge (IC2), to allow the Microbridge to reprogram the
chip and for its USB/serial function.
As mentioned earlier, the Microbridge
chip has two functions; it acts as a
USB-to-Serial bridge and as a PIC32
programmer.
On power-up, it starts in the USBto-serial bridge mode, with the MODE
LED (LED2) off, except for flickering
when there is serial activity. Serial
data is transmitted from pin 6, which
connects to the receive data pin (pin
12) on IC1.
Similarly, the Micromite’s transmit
pin (pin 11) connects to receive (pin 5)
on the Microbridge chip.
A second 1.5kΩ resistor between the
TX pin of IC2 (pin 6) and the RX pin of
IC1 (in 12) protects IC2 in case external
circuitry tries to send data to the Micromite while the Microbridge is active.
A 10kΩ pull-up resistor from 3.3V to
pin 11 of IC1 prevents glitches on the
serial port when the Micromite is reset. Another 10kΩ pull-up resistor on
pin 1 (MCLR) prevents spurious resets
of the chip.
The tactile switch on pin 4 of IC2
is used to place the Microbridge into
its PIC32 programming mode. In this
mode, the MODE LED (LED2) lights
up, and the Microbridge chip uses pin
7 to reset the PIC32 and pins 2 and 3 to
drive its programming interface.
In normal operation, these pins are
in a high-impedance state, so the corresponding I/O pins on the Micromite
can be used for other purposes.
The power supply is based on a lowdropout linear regulator (REG1; Microchip MCP1703) with a fixed output of 3.3V.
This powers both the Microbridge
chip (IC2) and the Micromite (IC1) and
as mentioned, is also made available on
pin 13 of CON1 for external circuitry
to use. The MCP1703 can source up to
250mA, with about 50mA of that being used by the Microbridge and the
Micromite.
Besides this critical 10µF capacitor
described above, there are two 100nF
bypass capacitors for the 3.3V supplies
of IC1 & IC2, plus 4.7µF input bypassing and output filtering ceramic capacitors
for REG1.
PIC32
programmer
Fig.4: the circuit of the Explore-28 module is elegant in its simplicity. IC1 is the PIC32 which
runs MMBasic, IC2 is the Microbridge which provides a USB serial port and the ability to
reprogram IC1, and REG1 is a low-dropout regulator which provides both ICs with a 3.3V
supply rail, derived from USB 5V or a source of 4-16V DC fed in via CON1 and/or CON2.
56
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
As mentioned
above, the Microbridge chip can act as
a PIC32 programmer
for loading firmware
updates into the Micromite (IC1).
You essentially get
this feature for free,
which is handy, as previously you needed to
purchase a separate
PIC32 programmer to
take advantage of new
releases of the Micromite firmware.
If you purchased the
Explore-28 as a fully
assembled module
or a kit, both microcontrollers (the PIC32
and PIC16F1455) will
be supplied pre-programmed, so this programming feature is
only required if you
want to update the
firmware with a new
release.
The process of loading new firmware into
siliconchip.com.au
the Micromite is painless and only
takes a minute or two. Start by switching the Microbridge into its programming mode and then, using free software on your laptop, you upload the
new firmware via USB to the Microbridge, which in turn programs it into
the flash memory of the Micromite.
To enter into the programming
mode, momentarily press the tactile
switch on the Explore-28. The Microbridge chip will then immediately switch to its PIC32 programming
mode, and the MODE LED will illuminate to confirm this. If you did not
intend to enter this mode, you can revert to the USB-to-serial mode by simply cycling the power.
The software you need to reprogram
the Micromite is called pic32prog. The
Windows version is available from the
SILICON CHIP website, while the macOS
and Linux versions are available from
other sites.
The Windows version does not
need to be installed; you can copy
the executable to a convenient location and start a command window in
that folder.
New versions of the Micromite firmware can be found at the author’s website, http://geoffg.net/micromite.html
(scroll to the bottom of the page). The
Micromite firmware download on the
SILICON CHIP website is also updated
periodically, but there may be a delay
between a new release and it appearing on our website.
Generally, the firmware is contained
in a .zip file, along with the Micromite manuals, so you need to unzip
its contents and locate the firmware
file (it has a .hex extension). Then,
copy this file to the same folder as the
pic32prog program.
Programming the firmware
To program this file into the Micromite chip, run pic32prog with the following arguments:
pic32prog -d ascii:comxx yyyy.hex
Here, xx is the COM port number
and yyyy.hex is the name of the firmware file. The COM port number is the
same as that allocated by Windows
when the Microbridge was in its USBto-serial converter mode.
As an example, if your Microbridge
was allocated the virtual serial port of
COM23 and the file that you wanted
to program was “Micromite_V5.05.09.
hex”, the command would be:
58
Silicon Chip
Fig.5: the typical output from pic32prog after it has programmed a new version
of the MMBasic firmware into the Micromite using the Microbridge. The whole
operation is straight forward and takes less than a minute.
pic32prog -d ascii:com23
Micromite_V5.05.09.hex
Before you do this, make sure that
you have closed the terminal emulator that you were previously using to
communicate with the Microbridge
in its USB-to-serial mode. Not doing
this is a common mistake and it will
cause pic32prog to abort with an error
message, because it cannot open the
virtual serial port.
When you press enter at the end
of this command, pic32prog will upload the hex file to the Microbridge,
program it into the PIC32, then read
back the programmed data to verify
that the programming operation was
executed correctly. The whole operation will take less than a minute and
sample output of the whole process is
shown in Fig.5.
After the programming operation,
the MODE LED will switch off, the
Microbridge will revert to operating
as a USB-to-serial converter, and the
Micromite will automatically restart
with the new firmware.
Updating the Micromite’s firmware will reset any options set and
completely erase the BASIC program
memory. So make sure that you make
a copy of the program stored on the
Micromite before starting the upgrade.
Construction
Because the Explore-28 is readily
available as an assembled module,
we expect that many readers will take
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that option. However, if you decide to
assemble your own module, you will
find that it is not hard but you will
need a steady hand and ideally, some
experience soldering surface-mount
components, even though the ones
used in this project are not that small
(at least, by SMD standards).
We have covered soldering surface
mounted components before and it is
nothing to be feared.
The secret is to use plenty of flux
paste and keep only a small amount of
solder on the soldering iron’s tip. The
flux makes the solder flow smoothly around the joint while using only
a minimal amount of solder means
that you will avoid solder bridges
and blobs.
The PCB used for the Explore-28 is a
four-layer board, coded 07108191 and
measuring 39 x 18.5mm, and it has
components mounted on both sides.
The overlay diagrams, Figs.6(a) and
(b), show where the components are
mounted, along with top and bottom
layer tracks.
We haven’t shown the two inner
layers because that would make the
diagrams hard to read. The outer layer
tracks shown are used for signal routing, while the two inner layers consist of a ground plane and a power
(+3.3V) plane.
These cover most of the board and
only have holes where vias pass between the top and bottom layers.
Other vias are used to connect these
siliconchip.com.au
CON2/3 (UNDER)
28
CON2 /3 (UNDER)
28
15 5V
15
5V
K
CON4
IC1
K
1
S1
1
CON1 (UNDER)
14 5V
LED2
MODE
ACTUAL SIZE
1.5kW
10kW
1.5kW
10W
1
100nF IC2
100nF
28
1
1.5kW
10mF
CON2/3
siliconchip.com.au
IC1
K
S1
CON4
4.7mF
1
REG1
4.7mF
15 5V
Fig.6: use these same-size photos and PCB overlay diagrams (top
and bottom view) as a guide to assembling the Explore-28.
Because the Micromite Explore-28 is so small, we’ve also prepared
the twice-life-size diagrams at right to make life a little easier!
As mentioned in the text, it’s easiest to populate the bottom side
first (with IC2 & REG1) since these components are all similar
heights, so the board should still sit relatively flat while you solder
the remaining components on the top side. If you’re having trouble
getting it to sit flat, try plugging a pair of 15-pin headers into a
breadboard and then resting the PCB on top.
planes to component pins.
While Fig.6 shows where all the
components need to be mounted, the
silk screen printing on the board will
also guide you during assembly.
It’s best to solder the SMD components on the bottom side first (the
side with IC2 and REG1), then add the
components to the top side, and finish
with the pin headers.
Before soldering IC2, if you haven’t
purchased a pre-programmed kit, you
need to program it with the Microbridge firmware.
This can be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website or from: http://
geoffg.net/microbridge.html (scroll to
the bottom of the page).
You will also need a narrow SOIC
programming socket to do this, so unless you have one, you’re better off acquiring a programmed chip.
You do not need to program the
PIC32 microcontroller used for the
Micromite, as the Microbridge will do
that for you when you have finished
construction.
Solder IC2 on the bottom side of the
board first, taking care that its pin 1
dot is orientated towards the nearby
empty square pads, as shown in Fig.6.
If you accidentally bridge two pins
with solder, clean up the bridge by
applying a little flux paste and then
some solder wick.
Follow with REG1, which can only
go in one way around. It’s best to apply a little flux paste to the large pad
first, then solder the three smaller pins
K
14 5V
10kW
(b)
CON1
1.5kW
1
LED1
PWR
1
(a)
14
CON1 (UNDER)
5V
2:1 SCALE FOR CLARITY (DOUBLE ACTUAL WIDTH & HEIGHT)
1
1.5k
CON1
10k
before finishing with the large tab. You
may need to turn your iron up to get a
good solder joint on the tab.
Now add the seven resistors and
five capacitors to the bottom side, being careful not get any of the different
values mixed up.
Flip the board over and then solder
the USB socket. Make sure its five signal pins line up correctly with the pads
(aided by the two plastic posts going
into holes on the board), then solder
those signal pins and ensure there are
no bridges between them.
If there are, apply some flux paste
and clean them up using solder wick.
Then solder the four large mounting
tabs, to hold the socket firmly to the
board.
With that done, you can continue
with soldering IC1; again, watch its
orientation – pin 1 goes at the opposite end from the USB socket.
Where to buy the Explore-28
• A full kit or major parts from the
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
(see siliconchip.com.au/shop)
Full Kit: (Cat SC5121) $30.00* or
2 Prog. micros: (Cat SC5120) $20.00*
4-layer PCB only: (Cat SC5115) $7.50*
*Inc. GST; P&P: $10.00 PER ORDER
• If you’re looking for a pre-assembled
module, go to Rictech Ltd
(www.rictech.nz/micromite-products)
or to https://micromite.org/
Also visit the Rictech website for a
downloadable Construction Pack
with PCB, firmware etc.
Australia’s electronics magazine
1.5k
IC2
100nF
10k
1
100nF
28
5V
4.7 F
1.5k
1
1.5k
10
14
10 F
REG1
4.7 F
CON2/3
15
5V
Then fit LED1 & LED2, with their
cathodes (generally indicated with a
green stripe or dot) towards the “K”
shown in Fig.6 (shown on the PCB itself as white squares).
But note that while most LEDs have
a green dot or stripe to indicate the
cathode, we’ve seen LEDs where it
indicates the anode.
So to be extra safe (and avoid a lot
of fiddling rotating of components later), it’s best to probe each end of the
LEDs with a multimeter set on diode
test mode.
When they light up, the red probe
is on the anode and the black probe
on the cathode.
Finish up by soldering pushbutton S1 in place, followed by the three
headers, fitted to the underside of the
board as shown.
Testing
To test the completed Explore-28,
simply connect it to a USB port on your
computer and program the latest firmware into the Micromite as described
above (if your Micromite chip wasn’t
already programmed).
Then check that you can get the
MMBasic command prompt via a terminal emulator. If you can, it means
that everything is working perfectly.
If you do not see the virtual serial
port created by the Microbridge on your
computer, the first thing to check is that
the voltage regulator is producing 3.3V
(measure between pins 13 & 8).
If this is OK, then the Microbridge
September 2019 59
Parts list –
Micromite Explore-28
1 four-layer PCB coded 07108191,
39 x 18.5mm
1 15-pin male header, 2.54mm pitch
(CON1)
1 6-pin and 8-pin male header, 2.54mm
pitch (CON2,CON3) (optional)
1 mini type-B SMD USB socket (CON4)
[Altronics P1308, element14
2300434]
1 mini SMD tactile pushbutton switch
(S1) [element14 1629616]
The Explore-28
is designed to
plug into a
standard
(solderless)
breadboard for
easy prototyping.
Using the preassembled module,
you can plug it into
a USB port on your
laptop and in a
few minutes, have
a simple program
running.
chip is probably at fault, with the most
likely causes being poor soldering or
an incorrectly programmed chip.
If you can connect via the USB-toSerial interface but you do not see the
Micromite’s prompt, you should check
that the Micromite was programmed
correctly, that the capacitor on pin 20
is of the correct type and, of course,
that your soldering is good.
A handy check is the current drawn
by the completed module. This is nor-
mally about 36mA.
You would need to connect an ammeter between a 4-16V DC supply and
the bottom row of pins on the board
to measure this.
If it is closer to 15mA, the Micromite
chip is not running correctly, while a
current draw of less than 5mA points
to a problem with the voltage regulator.
So, there you have it. The Explore-28 is an easy to use microcontroller module that you can use as the
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SO
microcontroller programmed with
MMBasic, SOIC-28 (IC1)
1 PIC16F1455-I/SL microcontroller
programmed for Microbridge, SOIC14 (IC2)
1 MCP1703A-3302E/DB low-dropout
3.3V regulator, SOT-223 (REG1)
2 red SMD LEDs, 2012/0805-size
(LED1,LED2)
Capacitors (all SMD 2012/0805
ceramic)
1 10µF 6.3V X5R
2 4.7µF 16V X5R
2 100nF 50V X7R
Resistors (all 1% SMD 2012/0805)
2 10kΩ
(Code 103)
4 1.5kΩ
(Code 152)
1 10Ω
(Code 100)
brains of your next project. It is a fun
thing to play with and an excellent way
of learning to program in the BASIC
programming language.
SC
Micromite Resources
Latest firmware versions, manuals and tutorials: .......................................................................................................http://geoffg.net
“Getting Started with the Micromite” and “Micromite User Manual”:........................... http://geoffg.net/micromite.html#Downloads
The Back Shed forum, where many knowledgeable users can help newcomers:.......www.thebackshed.com/forum/Microcontrollers
Microbridge Resources
Firmware for the Microbridge (PIC16F1455) in the Explore-28:................................ http://geoffg.net/microbridge.html#Downloads
pic32prog, used to program new firmware into the Micromite (Windows):.............. http://geoffg.net/microbridge.html#Downloads
P32P, a user-friendly GUI interface for pic32prog.exe (Windows):..... www.thebackshed.com/docregister/ViewDoc.asp?DocID=21
Terminal Emulators
Tera Term, the standard terminal emulator used with the Micromite:.................................................... http://tera-term.en.lo4d.com/
GFXterm, a terminal emulator designed specifically for use with the Micromite. It works with the Micromite’s
built-in editor and supports a set of graphics extensions:.................... www.thebackshed.com/docregister/ViewDoc.asp?DocID=22
MMEdit, a complete IDE (Integrated Development Environment) specifically designed for the Micromite. It includes
advanced features such as colour coded text, formatting, download and run and more:................ www.c-com.com.au/MMedit.htm
60
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
young maker
electronics by
On sale 24 August to
23 September, 2019
My first program
Teaching kids about robotics and how to code is
made easy thanks to these amazing tech toys.
Kids will get a thrill in building their robot
then control it with simple drag and drop
programming blocks (i.e Scratch). No
prior coding knowledge required.
NOW
129
$
SAVE $20
Codey rocky robot kit
Kids can learn coding and AI while they play.
Comes in two parts: Codey (detachable mainboard)
equipped with more than 10 electronics modules that
can be controlled via code. Rocky (car) that lets you
take Codey anywhere you want. Support AI and IoT.
Cloud storage. Ages 6+. KR9230 WAS $149
Smart robot
puppy dog
NOW
Just like a real dog, this
programmable robot
interacts with your voice
commands, & responds
to your touch. Includes
Bluetooth speaker
and rechargeable USB
cable. Ages 8+.
KR9234 WAS $169
149
Apitor superbot
robot kit
400+ pieces of blocks that kids can build more
ONLY
129
$
$
SAVE $20
than 18 cool multifunctional models. Allows kids
to do coding with their creations by graphical
programming language. Compatible with major
building block brands. Ages 8+. KJ9354
OR
F
H
C
E
T
E
H
T
L
L
A
E
V
A
H
BUILD, CODE, PLAY! WE
!
S
R
E
K
A
M
G
N
U
YO
Kids clock kit
Bright coloured parts.
Easy to assemble. No
batteries required. 31
pieces. 195mm Dia. Ages
6+. KJ8996 WAS $14.95
NOW
1195 $2995
$
SAVE $3
Build your own
planetarium model.
Snap to build, no glue
required. Age 8+.
KJ8994 WAS $9.95
www.jaycar.com.au
NOW
3495
$
Nano
3D printer for kids
Completely assembled with automatic bed leveling and
a touchpad. Easy quiet operation. Removable magnetic
bed. Truck look appearance. Comes in red or blue.
• Prints with Flashforge PLA filament and controlled via USB
• Maximum print size 100 x 100 x 80mm
TL4210 Filament sold separately.
NOW
695
$
SAVE $3
299
$
SAVE $5
Your first soldering iron kit
The ideal starter package for young electronics enthusiasts or
the home handyman. It contains everything needed for basic
electronics work. TS1652 WAS $39.95
1800 022 888
ea
FOR THE YOUNG SCIENTIST
National geographic science kits
Whether it's breaking open rocks, or building
a volcano, these hands-on kits include all the
essentials plus a learning guide. 10 different
kits available. Age 8+. KJ9033-KJ9042
Planetarium
educational kit
ONLY
ANY 2 FOR $40
JUST
5995
$
Tobbie II
robot kit
Build-it-yourself
hexiped robot with
a 360° free-rotation
body. Pair it with
micro:bit board to
create the coolest
projects you can
program. KR9260
BUNDLE DEAL:
Add micro:bit
$34.95 & 4 x AAA
batteries $2.95
VALUED AT
$97.85
BUNDLE DEAL
8495
$
SAVE $12.90
TEACH THEM ABOUT
!
H
C
T
A
R
C
S
Scratch is free, it is easy to use, and it lets people of all ages
quickly design and program their own interactive animations,
stories, games, and even program robots built on core computer
components such as Arduino or Raspberry Pi. All this without
writing a single line of code.
Yes! Scratch has a very simple drag and drop graphical user
interface, making it the easiest way to get started in the world of
computer coding, only without the traditional text line coding.
The ability to code computer programs is an important skill in
modern education and future industries.
Scratch is a key component in the STEM (Science Technology
Engineering and Mathematics) education program. When
children (or adults) learn to code in Scratch, they learn important
strategies for solving real world problems, designing projects,
and communicating ideas.
ONLY
99
Sphero mini
programmable ball robot
$
Perfect introduction to robotics and programming.
Drive, play games, learn to code, and more. Equipped
with gyroscope, accelerometer, and LED lights.
Colorful, interchangeable shells are available, so you
can easily switch one out to suit your mood. Ages 5+.
Green KJ9202
Pho
ne n
Blue KJ9204
ot in
clud
ed
ALSO
AVAILABLE:
Sphero Spkr+
Programmable Robot
in a Ball KJ9200
WAS $219
NOW $199
SAVE $20
In-store only.
Airblock
programmable
drone kit
7-piece modular drone, hovercraft,
car, spider and more! Made of
magnetic, modular parts that are easy
to assemble and disassemble without
the need for tools. Controlled by your
Smartphone or Tablet. Rechargeable,
lightweight & indoor friendly.
Ages 8+. KR9220
WAS $89.95
7995
$
ea
SAVE $10
mBot
Bluetooth®
robot kit
Meet
Edison
Robot
Kit
Compact, pre-programmed with 6
robot activities set by barcodes. Can be
programmed using simple drag-and-drop
programming blocks or a Python-like written
language. Ages 5+. KR9210 WAS $99.95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
EDCREATE - Edison Robot Creator’s Kit
KR9212 WAS $44.95 NOW $39.95 SAVE $5
NOW
79
$
Easy to assemble, entry
level robot that can
avoid obstacles, follow
lines, play soccer, and
more. Control from your
Smartphone or Tablet via
available app or program
using simple drag-anddrop programming blocks
or Arduino® IDE. Ages
12+. KR9200 WAS $199
NOW
149
95 $
SAVE $20
SAVE $50
For the young inventors
NOW
149
$
In-store only.
NOW
NOW
99
$
SAVE $50
Peace Maker
Neuron inventor kit
Project
Comes with programmable electronic building blocks
including sound, light and touch. Blocks are connected
in a snap with magnetic Pogo Pins. Users can simply
assemble the blocks to make creative gadgets without
needing to write any code. Ages 7+. KJ9190 WAS $199
62
In-store only.
click & collect
SAVE $50
Rule your room kit
Create touch activated inventions to control
your stuff. Prank mum, create games from
scratch and defend your domain from
intruders. 8 inventions. Ages 8+.
KJ9120 WAS $149
Buy online & collect in store
199
$
SAVE $100
Gizmos and gadgets kit
Designed for young inventors to create and
control their own app enabled games, pranks and
crazy contraptions. Invent a remote-controlled car or a
caterpillar that crawls with the tap of a table. 16 inventions.
Ages 8+. KJ9100 WAS $299
EXPLORE BASIC
ELECTRONICS
soldering for kids
JUST
1495
$
Cutters & pliers set
Short
circuits
vol.
III book
Build over 30 circuit board based projects
(project kits sold separately). Soldering
techniques are discussed in detail and
proper use of digital multimeter. BJ8505
ALSO AVAILABLE:
Volume I BJ8502 $9.95
Volume II BJ8504 $12.95
FREE
12G TUBE LEAD FREE
SOLDER HOBBY PACK
with purchase
of TS1465
25W 240V
soldering
iron
Ideal for the hobbyist and handy person. Stainless
JUST
ONLY
FROM
44
$
NOW
6
$
995
95
$
UP
SAVE TO
$7
$
A great way to teach kids
electronics - no soldering
required! Kit includes
baseboard, springs and
components to make 20+
projects, and 96-page
coloured Short Circuits
Vol. 1 book. KJ8502
Kids can draw the circuits
with the conductive pen
and then watch them come
to life. Each kit includes a
detailed sketchbook with
examples and templates to
work through. Ages 8+.
In-store only.
7
95
SAVE $5
Potato clock
KJ8937 WAS $12.95
More ways to pay
NOW
A quick drying, no-clean
flux for use when removing
or replacing surface mount
components. Dries in 5
to 10 mins.
NS3036 WAS $11.95
BASIC KIT
11-piece KJ9340
WAS $69.95
NOW $49.95
SAVE $20
Standard kit
Includes everything you need to get
started with some more advanced
Squishy Circuits projects that use LEDs,
buzzers, and insulating dough! KJ9350
WAS $59.95 NOW $49.95 SAVE $10
Deluxe kit
Comes with more items and plenty of pre-made
doughs so you can start circuit building right
away! Also includes a deluxe battery holder
which has a knob that allows your lights to blink
and buzzers to beep at different speeds.
KJ9352 WAS $129 NOW $99 SAVE $30
11
$
95
UP
SAVE TO
$30
CHECK OUT THE VIDEO ONLINE!
$
FROM
49
$
KJ9352
Bring your ideas to life with fun, hands-on playful
learning with Squishy Circuits. It uses conductive and
insulating play dough to teach the basics of electrical
circuits, a perfect blend of play and learning!
Kits include dough, LEDs, buzzers and more. Ages 8+.
NOW
12ml solder flux pen
ULTIMATE KIT
32-piece KJ9300
WAS $149
NOW $129
SAVE $20
Circuit scribe
Let their
imagination shine!
SAVE $2
MAKER KIT
17-piece KJ9310
WAS $119
NOW $99
SAVE $20
95
SAVE $20
Short Circuits 1 book
and project kit
02
T
A general purpose stand for any electronics
soldering iron. Metal base.
Economy TS1502
WAS $9.95 NOW $6.95 SAVE $3
Deluxe TS1507
WAS $16.95 NOW $9.95 SAVE $7
49
95
5
S1
Soldering iron stands
1395
$
steel barrel and orange cool grip impact resistant
handle. Fully electrically safety approved. TS1465
FROM
ONLY
2995
$
Set of five 115mm cutters and pliers for
electronics, hobbies, beading or other
crafts. Soft ergonomic grips. TH1812
95
SAVE $8
Mini electric motor
experiment kit
KJ9032 WAS $19.95
NOW
24
$
95
SAVE $3
12-in-1 electrical
experiment kit
KJ8919 WAS $27.95
NOW
2995
$
SAVE $5
Car or boat
electronic kit
KJ8972 WAS $34.95
on sale 24.8.19 - 23.9.19
63
Micro:bit
Playground
3-in-1 Game
Game 1:
Keep in tune with the “Guess the
Beat” game which includes our
Micro:Bit (XC4320 $34.95) +
speaker (AS3185 $22.95)
Teach the little ones with this 3-in-1
project! Learn the basics of electronics with
the BBC Micro:Bit and 3 simple games to
make with either the blockly or pythonbased programming.
FOR PARTS & INSTRUCTION SEE
www.jaycar.com.au/microbit-playground
Game 2:
CLUB OFFER
79
$
Game 3:
95
SAVE 25%
KIT VALUED AT
$107.20
Add potentiometer
(RP7610 $2.50) to the
Micro:Bit & speaker with
“Crack the Code” game.
Keep in balance with “Balance
the Skateboard” game by adding
a servo (YM2758 $9.95) to the
Micro:Bit, speaker & potentiomer.
S
E
G
A
L
L
A
R
O
KITS F
Age 10+
Age 6+
NOW
12
$
NOW
1495
$
95
SAVE $2
SAVE $4
6-in-1 solar educational kit
Experiment with solar energy - the energy source of
the future. See website for inclusion. Ages 8+. KJ6690
WAS $18.95
Build any one of six different projects: windmill, car,
dog, plane, airboat, revolving plane. Power from the
sun or household 50W halogen light. Ages 10+.
KJ8926 WAS $14.95
NOW
NOW
Solar educational kit
19
$
29
95
$
SAVE $5
95
SAVE $20
Snap-on electronic project kit
Build up to 80+ projects which demonstrate various
theories of electronics. Requires 2 x AA batteries.
Ages 6+. KJ8970 WAS $24.95
Air power engine car kit
Operates entirely using air and
travels up to 80m on one single
tank. No batteries or motor
required. Ages 10+.
KJ8967 WAS $49.95
Age 12+
NOW
3495
$
SAVE $10
PC programmable line tracer kit
An educational introduction to the world of robotics
and programming. Use either programming or line
tracing mode. Age 12+. KJ8906 WAS $44.95 Batteries
not included.
GLOW IN THE DARK
NOW
4495
$
SAVE $5
Space rail construction kit
Build your own marble rollercoaster with virtually
unlimited track possibilities! 488 pieces. Multi-fit
baseboard. Requires 1 x C battery.
Ages 15+. KJ9001
WAS $49.95
NOW
NOW
NOW
1995
4495
$
$
SAVE $5
SAVE $15
Cardboard radio construction kit
Make your own AM/FM radio. No soldering needed.
Requires 3 x AA batteries. Ages 8+.
KJ9021 WAS $24.95
64
click & collect
Hydraulic robot arm kit
No motors, no batteries required. 12 easy
to build models. Lift up to 50g. Ages 10+.
KJ8997 WAS $59.95
Buy online & collect in store
4995
$
SAVE $10
3-in-1 all terrain robot kit
Use the 6 terrestrial tracks/crawlers to create a
working gripper, rover or forklift. Electric motors
and detailed instructions included. Requires 4 x AA
batteries. Ages 13+. KJ8918 WAS $59.95
CLUB OFFER
BUILD YOUR OWN
WI-FI ROVER
99
$
SAVE 30%
KIT VALUED AT
$146.17
Control our new 4WD metal chassis
car kit (KR3166 $59.95) with Wi-Fi
via the new MEGA board with Wi-Fi
(XC4421 $59.95). Simple 2-board
connection with motor shield,
use this as a basis for your future
robotic projects. Comes with
mounting hardware.
Requires 8 x AA batteries.
FOR PARTS & INSTRUCTION SEE
www.jaycar.com.au/wifi-rover
!
S
D
L
I
U
B
R
U
O
Y
GEAR UP
JUST
9
$
95
Retro NES style controller
JUST
3995
$
SNES layout. Features A/B/X/Y buttons,
Perfect for building a Raspberry Pi based emulator. Includes
start, select, and direction controls. Easily access to all ports on your Raspberry Pi, additional USB ports,
configurable, USB powered. XC4404
and a handy storage slot for your spare micro SD cards. XC4403
NOW
1495
$
SAVE $4
2 Shaft universal motor
/ gearbox set
Includes main output shaft exiting
either side of the gearbox (i.e to
drive wheels) and another singleended shaft at 90º to the former.
Metal chassis, includes motor.
YG2742 WAS $18.95
HALF PRICE!
95
SAVE $5
Worm drive set
Contains one worm gear 24mm long x
12mm dia. and one spur gear.
YG2736 WAS $9.95
In the Trade?
$
SAVE $4
74
0
4 Speed gearboxes
Features an all plastic moulded
gearbox and motor casing. Includes
FA-30 type 3V electric motor, axle with
2 crank arm.
Single YG2740
WAS $18.95 NOW $14.95 SAVE $4
Double YG2741
WAS $23.95 NOW $19.95 SAVE $4
FROM
8
$
95
1495
$
YG
2
0
4
$
1495
NOW
3
YG26
NOW
FROM
Gear set and spur gear set
Gear set contains one pinion gear and
two sizes of radio gears. Spur gear set
contains three different spur gears.
Spur Set YG2632 $8.95
Gear Set YG2630 $9.95
SAVE $5
Arcade joystick
with microswitches
ONLY
7995
$
Retro NES case
All-in-one
learning
kit
This starter kit includes the UNO main
board, breadboard, servo motor, light
sensor, RGB LED, joystick, buzzer,
LED matrix, line tracer, and assorted
components and cables. All supplied
in a handy carry case with dividers, and
a quick start guide with links to online
tutorials. XC3900
LEARN MORE AT:
www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-learning
Ideal for arcade games and emulators.
2/4/8-way options restrictor plate,
metal mounting plate and main shaft,
removable knob. SM1052 WAS $19.95
ONLY
ONLY
12
$
95
Pulley set
Typically used to transfer power in a
small energy systems. Set includes 2
x each 50 & 25mm pulleys, 2 x 11mm
pulleys, bushings, screws, nuts and 1m
of rubber drive band. YG2869
149
$
Raspberry Pi starter kit
Just about everything you need to get
started with a Raspberry Pi. Includes:
Raspberry Pi 3B+, acrylic case,
power supply and USB cable, book
(Programming the Raspberry Pi: Getting
Started with Python), microSD card
loaded with NOOBS software, getting
started guide. XC9010
on sale 24.8.19 - 23.9.19
65
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TL4252 REG $129
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$
CLUB OFFER
139
$
SAVE 30%
NS3048
NA1008
TH1850
NS3020
99
$
SAVE $50
Soldering accessories bundle
1 × Lead Free Solder Paste
1 × Cleaning Spray
1 × Solder Sucker
1 × Desolder Braid
VALUED AT $35.65
CLUB OFFER
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$11.50
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5MP USB Microscope
10x to 300x magnification for extra detail.
QC3199 REG $189
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Multimeter test probes
shrouded type
MKT capacitor pack
15%
CLUB
OFFER
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Solder stand
Right angled. Aligator clips included.
WT5325 REG $15.95 CLUB $9.95
Pack of 50. Values range from .001μF to
0.47μF.
RM7190 REG $16.95 CLUB $12.95
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6-Core alarm cable
PCB etching kit
15A SPST marine toggle
switch
35%
50%
Pk10. SMD 7 Darlington array.
ZK8858 REG $36.95 CLUB $18.45
20%
20%
30m. Sold per roll.
WB1596 REG $44.95 CLUB $34.95
FL694LP 4G LTE.
LT3067 REG $19.95 CLUB $16.95
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Assorted boards.
HG9990 REG $27.95 CLUB $17.95
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ST0574 REG $12.95 CLUB $9.95
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12/24V battery tester
Solar rover kit
IP65 sealed ABS enclosure
Universal amplifier module
25%
12/24V Slide switch.
QP2263 REG $24.95 CLUB $17.95
40%
Easy snap together construction.
KJ9026 REG $24.95 CLUB $14.95
25% OFF
20%
240(W) x 160(D) x 90(H)mm. ABS material. 1 Channel 3.5W.
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66
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click & collect
Buy online & collect in store
!
H
C
N
E
WORKB
MY VERY OWN
5995
$
• Removes dangerous solder fumes
from the work area.
• Ball bearing high volume fan
• ESD safe
• Spare filter pk5 (TS1581 $9.95)
sold separately
TS1580 WAS $69.95
2. PCB holder with magnifier
• 2X magnifying lens,
soldering iron holder, 2 x strong
adjustable alligator clips
• Heavy cast iron base
TH1987
5
• Holds small metal screws,
nuts and bolts
• 250mm long & 200mm wide
TH1867 WAS $12.95
6. Low cost digital multimeter
• Compact and lightweight
• 100-450°C temperature range
• Rotary temperature control dial
• Integrated soldering pencil holder
TS1610
shrinking plastic. Adjustable tip temperature
and a fold-out stand. 210mm long. TS1111
Soldering tool kit
A selection of handtools and accessories for
soldering work. 6-pieces.
TH1851
NOW
9
$
95
SAVE $3
Soldering iron tip
cleaning paste
Clean/restores tips so it's
almost good as new. 15g
tin. TS1512 WAS $12.95
6
95
JUST
1
$ 95
FREE
BUTANE GAS
ea
Bar magnets
with purchase
of TS1111
Valued at $4.95
(NA1020)
Educational magnets. Ideal for
hobbyists & children to learn
more about magnetism.
Bar Magnet
TH1874
U Shaped Magnet TH1873
NOW
Made of lightweight metal
and has strong suction.
195mm long. TH1862
Engineers ruler 25cm with scale
Includes several charts and diagrams
i.e angle gauges, IC pin spacing tables
and chip resistor/capacitor package
sizes. R-4 gold plated. TH2520
1995
Includes all soldering essentials for various projects.
Pack includes 240V 20/130W turbo soldering iron,
spare tip, stand, solder, metal solder sucker with spare
tip and O-ring. TS1651 WAS $24.95
Metal desolder tool
595
$
$
Soldering starter kit
16
2995
$
ONLY
SAVE $5
95
JUST
JUST
1995
$
3
SAVE $3
995
$
JUST
995
$
$
NOW
1495
SAVE $3
NOW
ONLY
ONLY
26
$
995
$
• Includes transistor & diode test
• 500V, 2000 count
• AC voltages up to 750V
• DC voltages up to 1000V
• DC current up to 10A
• Includes test leads
QM1500
$
Low
cost gas
soldering
iron
Great for soldering, cutting plastic, or heat
JUST
NOW
1
5. Magnetic project work mat
3. 10W 240VAC soldering
station
JUST
95
SAVE $10
4. Solder fume extractor
• 30W Mains powered
• Supplied with 2 x 7mm dia. glue sticks
• Spare glue sticks pk6
(TH1991 $3.95) sold separately
TH1997 WAS $12.95
19
$
4
NOW
1. Mini glue gun
2
1995
$
6-pce insulated
electronic
screwdriver
set
• Ergonomic handles with excellent non-slip grips
• Fully insulated shafts rated for 1000V
• TÜV and GS approved
• Storage case included
TD2026
ea
SAVE $5
FROM
Lead-free solder
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- lead free. Rosin cored.
200g rolls. WAS $24.95
0.70mm NS3088
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Free delivery on online orders over $70
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Electrical screwdrivers
Soft ergonomic handles for secure and comfortable grip. TUV and GS
approved. Rated up to 1kV. Slotted & Phillips available in various sizes.
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67
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Rechargeable lithium-ion
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Solder without mains power or butane
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TS1545
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Inspection camera
with record and LED illumination
Pocket-size endoscope camera with 1m camera
tube that winds up inside the back. A great tool
for inspecting hard to reach areas. 3" display.
• Records to micro SD card.
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QC8716
High torque rechargeable lithium-ion
screwdriver with bits
Ideal for makers, technicians, and other
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phones, watches, laptops, drones, etc. 150 RPM
no load speed. USB rechargeable. TD2510
Due Early September
AV equipment
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HDMI audio extractor
4-Way HDMI splitter
with downscaling
Extracts the audio stream from a HDMI signal so you
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Audio mixer
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95
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Digital to analogue converter
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Compact and rechargeable, ideal
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Multi-directional, transmit or receive.
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120Ah. IP68 dust and waterproof
rated. Mains powered.
MB3627
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of
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The Macintosh Classic II,
also called the Performa 200,
was released in 1991. With
computers of this age, corrosion
and time often take their toll. In
this case, the ever-present leaking
electros had caused some damage.
However, Bruce Rayne managed to
make this old “classic” run again.
I
was 10 or 11 years old when I received my first computer. It had an
8-bit, 3.5MHz CPU, 8KB of RAM and
used cassette tapes for data storage. After a couple of years, it was replaced
with a faster computer and ended up
in the bin. What reason could I possibly have to keep it when my new computer was so much faster?
Fast forward 35 years where CPU
speeds are measured in gigahertz,
RAM is measured in gigabytes and
hard drives are measured in terabytes,
you would think those old computers
would be long gone and worthless. But
there’s been an incredible nostalgic
resurgence in the popularity of these
old devices. I saw my exact model of
computer sell on eBay for nearly $300
a couple of months ago.
You might think that it’s only people my age and older that are collecting vintage computers, but you’d be
wrong. I’ve met teenagers who are
collecting 25-year-old computers,
fascinated by the role these devices
played in the evolution of the personal computer.
The more memorable and rare computers can sometimes go for quite obscene amounts of money. Apple’s very
first computer (the Apple I) is so rare,
siliconchip.com.au
every single one known to be in existence is recorded in a registry, along
with its sale price. In October 2014,
one of these old Apples sold for over
US$900,000. Not bad for a computer
that sold for $666.66 back in 1976.
One of the main selling points of
any vintage computer is whether it
still functions, but many of the internal components have a limited lifespan, so the older the computer, the
greater the chance it will have a fault.
Among the most troublesome components are electrolytic capacitors. They
tend to leak electrolyte onto the PCBs,
corroding surrounding components.
Even when a working computer has
been tucked away in a dry cupboard
for years, it’s not uncommon for it to
fail when it’s finally pulled out and
switched on.
But even worse than a leaky capacitor is a leaky backup battery. These
were used to store settings and power
the clock when the computer was off
and can spew out corrosive chemicals
if left long enough, sometimes completely destroying the computer from
the inside out.
This has lead to a niche business
of restoring old computers to extend
their operational life. The commonly
Australia’s electronics magazine
used term “recapping” refers to the replacement of old capacitors with new
ones. After recapping a few of my own
computers, I have recently started offering these services to others.
It’s not a very profitable business
model but I do get a great deal of joy
bringing these old computers back
to life.
I’m always on the lookout for potential bargains, so when I see a vintage computer for sale as “not working” or “untested” (which means the
same thing), I like to keep a close eye
on it. If the price is right, I snap it up.
The Classic II
My most recent purchase was an Apple Macintosh Classic II. For those not
familiar with this model, it followed
the release of the Macintosh Classic,
which was sold in 1990 as a sort of
modernised version of the original
compact Macintosh.
In one of many strange moves by Apple, the Macintosh Classic offered very
few improvements over the Macintosh
Plus, a model released four years earlier. Although it now had a built-in hard
drive and a slightly redesigned case,
it had the same four megabyte RAM
capacity, the same Motorola 68000
September 2019 69
Above: a close-up of the damage
caused by leaky capacitors.
Right: this version of the Macintosh
Classic II used a 3.6V ½-AA PRAM
lithium battery for CMOS backups,
which had luckily not leaked.
CPU and the same nine-inch monochrome screen.
The one thing it had going for it was
its low price tag, which made it very
popular with schools and home users.
As a result, over 1.2 million units were
sold, and there are still quite a few
Macintosh Classics floating around
these days.
A year later, Apple released the
more powerful Macintosh Classic II,
which looked almost identical to the
Macintosh Classic but it was more
closely based on the Macintosh SE/30,
a model released in 1989. The Classic II had a Motorola 68030 CPU running at 16MHz and the RAM was expandable to 10MB. It had one empty
slot for a ROM/FPU expansion card,
but in a strange twist, Apple never released one!
The Classic II was also a winner with
the education and home user market,
so they are also fairly easy to come by,
though finding one that still works can
be a challenge. Regardless of how well
a computer like this has been treated
or stored, chances are it won’t function
today without a few repairs.
The Classic II motherboard has between 13 and 16 SMD aluminium electrolytic capacitors (depending on the
model revision) as well as a ½-AA size
3.6V lithium backup battery. All early
compact Macs were held together with
Torx screws, and not many people had
matching screwdrivers. As a result,
very few owners ever opened them up
to replace the battery, so they’ve been
left there to leak and corrode.
The Classic II is comprised of three
main internal parts: the cathode ray
tube, the power supply board and the
70
Silicon Chip
motherboard (referred to by Apple as
the analog and logic board respectively). There is also a cooling fan, a 40MB
SCSI hard drive and a 1.4MB floppy
drive crammed into the case, plus a
speaker mounted in the corner.
The power supply board provides
+5V, +12V and -12V DC outputs and
also hosts the controller for the CRT
display.
Starting the repair
I whipped out my trusty Torx driver and removed the four screws holding the back cover in place. Compact
Macintosh cases are sometimes a little
hard to open and require some gentle
persuasion, but this cover came off
with little effort. The corrosion from a
leaky battery often spreads to the metal
chassis in these Macs, but thankfully
the chassis of this one looked clean.
The next step was to inspect the
motherboard, which sits on metal rails,
so I unplugged the floppy cable, the
hard drive cable and the power connector and that allowed the motherboard to slide right out. To my relief,
I saw a completely intact backup battery. No leakage, no visible “battery
cancer”. The whole board looked pretty good to the naked eye.
It was the original revision of the
motherboard, with 13 SMD electrolytic capacitors (eight 10µF 16V, three
47µF 16V and two 1µF 50V), plus a little blue jumper wire snaking its way
across the board. This wire might look
like a user modification, but it actually
came like this from the factory. Later
revisions of this model didn’t have the
wire, so Apple obviously resolved this
design flaw.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Each of the capacitors needed to be
removed and the pads cleaned.
Many of the ICs also needed to have
their pads cleaned.
siliconchip.com.au
Some traces had also been damaged
by corrosion from the electrolyte. The
example shown above was fixed by
soldering copper wire from the nearby
via to the SMD IC shown below. This
was then cleaned with an ultrasonic
cleaner.
siliconchip.com.au
I put the board under the microscope and could immediately see the
results of electrolyte leakage from the
capacitors. All of the surrounding
components had a caked-on yellow
crust, something I have seen many
times before. The whole board would
need a thorough clean.
The first thing to do was to get rid
of the old capacitors. I use a hot air rework station. Some people like to use
solder tweezers, and I’ve even seen
someone who likes to cut the tops of
the capacitors off, just leaving the pins,
then remove them carefully with a regular soldering iron, but I prefer hot air.
I use little flat pieces of steel as
shields, positioned carefully around
the capacitors, to minimise the amount
of hot air spilling onto other components. It’s 27 years since this computer was assembled, so I don’t want to
push my luck by blasting too much of
it with too much hot air.
Once the capacitors were off, it revealed large amounts of electrolyte
residue around the old pads, but it
looked far worse than it was. I started
to clean this up by adding a liberal
amount of a good quality gel flux, then
I added some new solder to the dirty
pads and gently moved the flat part of
my bevelled soldering iron tip around
the pad to melt any old, crusty solder.
This is definitely not a job for a conical tip; I prefer fine bevel or small chisel tip. Next, I grabbed some solder wick
and gently soaked up all of the solder
from the pads. Ever so gently, I rubbed
the pads with solder wick to clean off
any remaining residue. Finally, I used
a cotton bud soaked in isopropyl alcohol to clean off the excess flux, which
revealed a sparkling clean pad, ready
for the replacement capacitor.
There were some ugly looking solder joints on a nearby transistor, so I
Australia’s electronics magazine
took the opportunity to remove it as
well, then cleaned the pads before reattaching it using fresh solder.
After removing one of the capacitors, I could see a break in one of the
nearby traces. The localised corrosion was so severe, it had eaten right
through the solder mask and trace, so
that would need to be repaired.
It took me a while to remove all 13
capacitors and clean the board up. I
was then ready to fit the replacements.
For many restoration purists, replacing the electrolytic capacitors with
tantalums may seem like vandalism,
but I have more interest in preventing
future capacitor leakage than I do in
preserving the exact look of the original motherboard.
I also like to remove the original
½-AA battery holder and replace it
with a 20mm button cell holder, as 3V
CR2032 batteries are much easier to
source, and the computers don’t seem
to mind the 0.6V difference between
the two battery types.
With all thirteen capacitors replaced, I turned my attention to the
broken trace. I followed it up to a
nearby via, then using a curved surgical scalpel, I gently scraped away
the solder mask, revealing fresh copper. I then applied some solder to the
copper and soldered some 0.2mm diameter enamelled copper wire to the
exposed copper.
I then ran the wire around to the
other end of the broken trace, which
was the pin of a surface mounted plastic-leaded chip carrier (PLCC) IC. I
scraped away at the trace coming out
from the destination pad (to increase
the solder area for the other end of the
wire) and trimmed the repair wire to
a more suitable length.
After repeating the same soldering
process to secure the other end of the
September 2019 71
wire, I used my multimeter to confirm
that the repair had restored continuity.
The only thing left was to give the
board a good clean. I’ve heard that
some people like to clean these old
boards with soap and a toothbrush,
while others like to resort to the household dishwasher but I wouldn’t recommend either approach. I use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a diluted
detergent designed specifically for
PCB cleaning.
I dropped the board into the ultrasonic cleaner then gave it about
15 minutes on each side. Ultrasonic
cleaners do a great job of cleaning gunk
out of tiny crevices, while still being
quite gentle.
Once the cleaning was complete, I
dropped the board into a bath of isopropyl alcohol. This helps to wash
away any residual water and detergent,
and the low evaporation temperature
of the alcohol also speeds up the drying process. I use a small toaster oven
set to a very low temperature (around
60-70°C) for drying cleaned boards,
leaving the boards in the oven for about
60-90 minutes.
Once out of the oven, I gave it a quick
inspection while waiting for it to cool.
Almost all of the residual electrolyte
gunk was now gone, and the trace
repair had held together well. Even
though the repair looked solid, I still
applied several coats of UV-curing solder mask for extra protection. I usually
use a UV globe to cure the mask, but it
was a sunny day, so I left it in the sun
for a few minutes instead.
The repaired and cleaned motherboard shown above. Note the CMOS
battery and holder were replaced with a much more common CR2032.
The power supply board looked fine at a glance, but had large amounts of
electrolytic capacitor leakage on the underside (shown below).
Testing
I put the computer back together,
plugged in the mains power cord,
flicked the power switch and got nothing, not even a crackle or a pop. It was
completely dead. I grabbed my multimeter to see if I was getting any power
at all. The external floppy drive connector can be used to check the output
voltage, and I read just 2V on the 5V
pin, so the power supply board would
need some attention.
After discharging the EHT, I removed the power supply board and
gave it a quick once-over to see if there
were any obvious problems.
I didn’t find any burn marks, but
what I did find was a huge amount
of electrolyte leakage near a small
cluster of eight electrolytic capacitors. They all needed to be replaced.
This is a known failure point for these
72
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
boards, so I keep a good supply of replacements.
I de-soldered the joints for all
eight capacitors and pulled them off
the board. This revealed the full extent of the leakage, with dirty brown
rings of liquid under each capacitor.
Cleaning the power supply board is a
little trickier than cleaning the motherboard, as it has a small speaker riveted to the surface.
Submerging a speaker in an ultrasonic cleaner wouldn’t be the smartest move, so I used a little isopropyl
alcohol and a toothbrush to get the
worst of the gunk off the board. Once
cleaned, I then soldered in the replacement capacitors.
Before reassembling the computer
for another test, I took a few moments
to inspect the solder joints. Some of
the components on the power supply
board are relatively large and bulky, so
the weight can sometimes cause cracks
in the joints over time. I found a few
ugly looking joints, so I removed the
old solder and replaced it with new
stuff, just to be thorough.
With fingers and toes crossed, I put
the Macintosh back together and powered it up. I got the familiar “ding”
sound of the Macintosh startup chime.
A couple of seconds later I heard more
“dings”, meaning I wasn’t quite finished yet. The computer was starting
but kept restarting itself in an endless loop.
Chances were this was being caused
by the voltage being a bit low
and I could probably fix this
with a minor adjustment.
My multimeter showed
about 4.5V on the 5V
power rail. Thankfully,
the power supply board is
equipped with a small potentiometer for minor voltage adjustments, so I gave it
a twiddle until the voltage
read exactly 5.0V.
The reboot loop stopped
and the Macintosh started
booting into an operating
system from the 27-year-old,
40-megabyte internal hard
drive. A quick glance at the
original owner’s files revealed that
this computer hadn’t been used in
nearly 20 years.
As I intended to sell this old Mac,
I went ahead with a few other housekeeping tasks, such as replacing one
of the cogs in the floppy drive eject
mechanism, as this is a well-known
weak point.
Don’t ask me why, but of the four
cogs in the mechanism, one of them
changes to the consistency of an aged
cheese when it gets old, while the others are unaffected.
Even though this one had not yet
failed, its disintegration was inevitable, so I saved the future owner
from any potential headaches. I also
gave the floppy drive heads a good
clean, then erased the internal hard
The black
potentiometer (PP1)
on the power supply
board provides
minor voltage
adjustments, and
was needed to adjust
the 5V rail.
The floppy drive
eject mechanism
in the old
Macintosh Classic
IIs had a habit of
deteriorating, as
seen by the yellowed
cog at far right.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
drive and installed a “fresh” operating system.
Even though a quick block test of the
hard drive came up clean, it’s a miracle that this drive still works, and it
could fail any day. Thankfully there
are modern replacements available,
such as the SCSI2SD adapter that allows the old SCSI hard drive to be replaced with a modern micro SD card.
Now that the Macintosh Classic II
works, what can you do with it? The
answer is quite simple: you can do anything you could do with it in 1991.
There are a large number of online resources with vintage software that can
be run on these old computers: word
processors, spreadsheets, graphics,
games, music etc. Thousands of old
applications that will run beautifully
on a computer of this vintage.
And that’s precisely what the collectors want to do. They want to relive
their past by playing old games from
their youth, writing a letter on Microsoft Word version 5.0, or composing a
musical masterpiece for playback on
the tinny, 55mm speaker. It’s all a bit
silly, but it’s also a lot of fun!
Extra Links
Schematic diagrams (the SE/30 is
close in specifications to the Classic
II) – siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqd
Developer notes – siliconchip.com.
au/link/aaqe
Service guide – siliconchip.com.
au/link/aaqf
SC
September 2019 73
At last! No more swapping cables every time you want to change audio sources!
This high-performance audio switcher can expand
the number of inputs on just about any piece of
audio equipment with stereo line level inputs.
It can be used as a stand-alone device or it
can be used to ‘upgrade’ our
ultra-low-distortion, low-noise
preamplifiers from March 2019
or November/December 2011
to increase the number of
available stereo inputs
from three to six.
I
SIX
INPUT STEREO
AUDIO SELECTOR
f you’re one of those people who
enjoys listening to music from a
variety of sources, you’ll know just
how much a pain unplugging and replugging cables can be.
For example, you might want to listen to CDs or DVDs one day, an MP3
player another, not forgetting your
still-vast vinyl record collection another. And other times there’s the audio from your TV . . . but most of the
time it’s a DAB+, FM or AM tuner you
want plugged in. That’s five but there
are many more.
So what to do? Our 2011 and 2019
preamplifiers, for example, can switch
between three different stereo sources,
using either a remote control or front
panel pushbuttons. And while three
74
BY JOHN CLARKE
Silicon Chip
inputs are enough for many people,
inevitably, some people need more!
They are very high-performance stereo units, with vanishingly low noise
and distortion. They both have remote
controlled volume and input switching, while the 2019 update added stereo and bass tone controls.
While it is possible to add an external input switcher to expand the number of available inputs (eg, our January
2012 standalone three input switcher),
that’s an unsatisfying solution.
After all, who wants an extra box
and an extra remote control?
This project expands the number of
stereo inputs on either preamp (or indeed any other preamp or all-in-one)
to six, which should satisfy most peoAustralia’s electronics magazine
ple. Yes, we know that there will be
people who need seven or eight, but
you have to stop somewhere!
It’s an easy upgrade to either
preamp, whether you’ve already built
it and you just want to add more inputs, or you’re going to build either
one from scratch.
Simply build the two new boards,
wire them up to the existing preamp
main board and reprogram the microcontroller on the preamp. Voila, you
have more inputs! You can still use
the same remote control to adjust the
volume and switch between the six
input pairs.
So that you can use it with other
preamp designs, or other equipment
entirely, we have designed it so that
siliconchip.com.au
it can be used as a standalone unit.
All you need to do is build the boards,
put them in a box and connect a small
9-15V DC power supply and you have
a remote-controlled six input switcher
with front panel pushbuttons and LED
indicators.
You can control it with just about
any universal remote.
Overall design
The Audio Selector consists of two
PCBs. The main one has the six stereo
inputs, one pair of stereo output sockets and the relays used for switching
between the inputs.
The control PCB has the six pushbutton switches to select each input,
with integral LEDs and mounts on the
front panel of the unit.
The two PCBs are connected by a 14way ribbon cable with IDC connectors
at each end. When used as a standalone
unit without the preamplifier, an infrared receiver can be included on the
control PCB. The main PCB also has a
5V regulator to power the whole circuit from a 9-15V DC source.
When used with the preamplifier,
the Audio Selector is connected to the
main preamp board via a 10-way ribbon cable with IDC connectors. In this
case, the Audio Selector is powered
from the preamplifier over this cable.
The infrared receiver on the preamplifier is then used to control the Audio
Selector as well as adjusting the volume on the preamplifier.
This requires revised firmware to
be loaded onto the preamp micro. If
you have a PIC programmer, you can
download this from our website and
reprogram the chip yourself.
Alternatively, you could merely
swap the preamp chip out for one already programmed with the revised
firmware.
If you haven’t built the preamp yet,
Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Six stereo inputs
Negligible noise and distortion
Input selection via pushbutton or infrared remote controlled
LED indicators to show currently selected channel
Remembers currently selected input even when powered off
Can be built as a standalone unit or incorporated into one of
two high-performance preamplifiers
Can be retrofitted to suitable existing preamplifiers
No mains wiring required; can run off low voltage DC
Easy construction
Uses common parts
you can use a chip with the revised
firmware from the start.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the main
(switching) board while Fig.2 is the
circuit diagram of the front panel control board.
Let’s start by looking at the main
circuit, Fig.1. It’s based around microcontroller IC1, which drives the DPDT
input selection relays (RLY1-RLY6)
via NPN transistors Q1-Q6 and monitor the switches and infrared receiver
via CON10.
When the circuit is powered up, the
coil of one of six relays RLY1-RLY6
is energised at any given time. Each
relay’s pair of COM terminals is connected to its corresponding pair of RCA
input sockets, CON1-CON6. So when
its coil is energised, those signals are
fed through a pair of 100Ω series resistors and ferrite beads FB1 and FB2 to
the output sockets, CON7 and CON8.
The series resistors, ferrite bead and
470pF capacitors heavily attenuate any
ultrasonic signals which may be picked
up by the preamp inputs and wiring.
Such signals typically come from elec-
tromagnetic emissions from nearby
equipment, broadcast radio stations
(the wires may act like antennas) etc.
We only want to feed audio frequency (20Hz-20kHz) signals to the following equipment.
One end of each relay coil is permanently connected to the +5V supply
while the other end is connected to
ground by one of six NPN transistors,
Q1-Q6. Each of these transistors has
a 2.2kΩ base current limiting resistor
which is driven by one of the digital
outputs of IC1; RA2 (pin 1) for Q1, RA3
(pin 2) for Q2 etc.
So when one of these outputs goes
high, the base-emitter junction of the
corresponding transistor is forward-biased, switching on that transistor and
pulling current through the connected
relay coil, energising it.
When that output goes low, the transistor switches off and the connected
diode (one of D1-D6) prevents the coil
from generating a high-voltage spike
as its magnetic field collapses, which
could damage the connected transistor.
When used as a standalone unit, an
external source of DC power is applied
to terminal block CON11, and this is
Looking at the rear of the input PCB with its six stereo RCA sockets, hiding the low-profile relays behind.
At left foreground is the connector which has the cable connecting to the preamp board.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 75
Fig.1: the circuit of the main Audio Selector board. Microcontroller IC1 switches on one of the six relays, to connect
the appropriate pair of input sockets to the output, using NPN transistors Q1-Q6. It connects to the front panel
pushbutton/LED board via CON10. That front panel board also hosts the infrared receiver, if built as a standalone
unit. If part of a preamp, the IR receiver is on the preamp board, which is connected via CON9.
76
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the circuit of the front panel control board is quite simple, as it mainly
hosts pushbuttons S1-S6, which have integral LEDs, plus the infrared receiver
and its supply filter, which are only fitted if building the Audio Selector as
a standalone unit. Otherwise, these parts will already exist on the preamp
board.
regulated to 5V by REG1 to power the
relays and IC1. Diode D7 provides reverse polarity protection while 100µF
capacitors are used for input bypassing
and output filtering of REG1. JP1 is fitted in the upper position.
When used as part of a preamp, 5V
power comes from pins 7 and 8 of
CON9, with the ground connection
made at pins 9 and 10. In this case,
JP1 is fitted in the lower position.
IC1 has a 100nF bypass capacitor and
10kΩ reset pull-up resistor to ensure
correct operation.
Control board circuitry
As shown, CON10 on the main board
connects to CON12 on the control board
(Fig.2), and this allows microcontroller
IC1 to detect when one of the front panel pushbuttons is pressed and also illuminate the LED in one of the buttons,
to indicate the currently selected input.
LED1-LED6 are housed within pushsiliconchip.com.au
buttons S1-S6. Their cathodes are
joined together and to a 2.2kΩ resistor
to ground, setting the maximum LED
current to around 0.8mA ([5V - 3.3V]
÷ 2.2kΩ). One LED anode is driven to
+5V to light it up and the others are left
low at 0V, turning off the other LEDs.
This is done via pins 5, 7, 9, 11, 13
& 14 of CON12, which connect back
to the same pins on IC1 as are used to
drive the relays via the six transistors
(see Fig.1).
Hence, whenever a relay is activated by that output going high, the corresponding LED on the front panel
lights up.
The pushbutton switches are connected in a ‘matrix’ manner to pins 3,
4, 6, 8 & 10 of CON12. This reduces the
number of pins needed to sense a press
of one of the six buttons by one (to five).
Pins 3 and 4 of CON12/CON10 connect to the RB3 and RB4 outputs of IC1,
while pins 6, 8 and 10 of these connecAustralia’s electronics magazine
tors go to the RB5, RB6 and RB7 inputs
of IC1. These inputs are typically held
at 5V via pull-up currents which are
internal to IC1.
Switches S1, S3 and S5 have one side
connected to the RB4 output, while
switches S2, S4 and S6 have one side
connected to the RB3 output. The other
sides of the switches are monitored by
the RB5, RB6 and RB7 inputs.
Periodically, outputs RB3 and RB4
are briefly brought low in turn, and if
one of the three inputs (RB5, RB6 or
RB7) goes low at the same time, that
means one of the three switches connected to that output has been pressed.
The micro figures out which one has
been pressed based on which combination of these five pins is low and
switches to the selected input.
The current input can also be
changed by infrared remote control.
Infrared receiver IRD1 is a complete
infrared detector and processor; its 5V
supply is filtered by a 100Ω resistor and
100µF capacitor.
It receives the 38kHz signal from the
remote control, amplifies, filters it and
demodulates it. The result is a serial
data burst at its pin 1 output. This is
fed to the RA6 digital input of IC1via
pin 12 of CON12.
Software within IC1 determines
whether the received code is valid and
if so, which button on the remote control has been pressed and whether that
corresponds to one of the six inputs. If
it does, it switches to the new input.
Regardless of which method is used
to select an input, as well as changing
over the relays as needed, IC1 stores
the current input selection in its permanent EEPROM memory so that the
same input will be selected the next
time the unit is powered up.
If the Audio Selector circuit is built
as part of a preamplifier, IRD1 and its
supply filter components are not fitted.
The infrared receiver on the preamplifier board is used instead. This controls
the volume on the preamplifier directly. If an input change is required, the
preamplifier board sends a coded signal over pins 1-6 of CON9.
These signals are fed to the RA1, RA0
and RA7 inputs of IC1 (pins 18, 17 &
16). The signals carry serial data indicating which input has been selected.
The microcontroller on the preamplifier must be reprogrammed to send
these signals, as the earlier designs did
not have this capability. Once IC1 receives valid serial data from that miSeptember 2019 77
Parts list - Six Input Audio Selector
Main board and Control board
1 double-sided PCB, code 01110191, 165 x 85mm
1 double-sided PCB, code 01110192, 106 x 36mm
6 PCB-mounting DPDT relays with 5V DC coil (RLY1-RLY6)
[Altronics S4147]
6 PCB-mounting dual vertical RCA sockets (CON1-CON6)
[Altronics P0212]
1 white vertical PCB-mount RCA socket (CON7)
[Altronics P0131]
1 red vertical PCB-mount RCA socket (CON8)
[Altronics P0132]
2 14-pin PCB-mount vertical IDC headers (CON10,CON12)
[Altronics P5014]
6 PCB-mount pushbutton switches with blue LEDs (S1-S6)
[Jaycar SP0622, Altronics S1173]
2 ferrite beads (FB1,FB2)
[Jaycar LF1250, Altronics L5250A]
1 3-way pin header, 2.54mm spacing (JP1)
1 jumper shunt/shorting block (JP1)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
4 M3 x 12mm Nylon tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6.3mm Nylon tapped spacers
16 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
2 14-pin IDC line sockets [Altronics P5314]
1 350mm length of 14-way ribbon cable
If you don’t already
have one, you
will also need a
“Universal” Remote
Control (see text) –
eg Altronics A012 or
Jaycar AR1954 or
AR1955
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller programmed with 0111019A.HEX (IC1)
6 BC337 NPN transistors (Q1-Q6)
6 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D6)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester or multi-layer ceramic
2 470pF NP0/C0G ceramic or MKT polyester or MKP polypropylene
[eg, element14 Cat 1005988]
Resistors (all 0.25W, 1% metal film)
4-band code
5-band code
1 10kΩ
brown black orange brown or brown black black red brown
6 2.2kΩ
red red red brown
or red red black brown brown
12 100Ω
brown black brown brown or brown black black black brown
Extra parts for standalone version
1 3-pin Infrared receiver; TSOP4138, TSOP4136 or similar (IRD1)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D7)
3 100µF 16V PC electrolytic capacitors
1 2.2kΩ 0.25W 1% resistor
1 100Ω 0.25W 1% resistor
1 2-way screw terminal, 5.08mm spacing (CON11)
1 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screw and hex nut (for REG1)
Extra parts for connecting to preamplifier
1 PIC16F88-I/P microcontroller programmed with 0111111M.HEX*
1 10-pin PCB-mount vertical IDC header (CON9)
[Jaycar PP1100, Altronics P5010]
2 10-pin IDC line sockets
[Jaycar PS0984, Altronics P5310]**
1 250mm length of 10-way ribbon cable**
* replaces IC3 in 2011 preamp or IC5 in 2019 preamp
** not required if already part of pre-existing preamp
78
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
cro, it switches inputs as required.
Construction
The components for the circuit
shown in Fig.1 are fitted to a doublesided PCB coded 01110191, which
measures 165 x 85mm while the separate control section components are
mounted on a double-sided PCB coded 01110192, which measures 106 x
36mm.
The overlay diagrams for these
boards, which indicate where the components go, are shown in Figs.3 & 4.
Start by building the main board.
Fit the resistors first, where shown.
The resistor colour codes are shown in
the parts list but it’s best to check the
values with a DMM set to measure resistance to make sure they’re going in
the right places.
Follow with diodes D1 to D6, and
install D7 if building the standalone
unit. Ensure that their cathode stripes
face as shown, then feed resistor lead
off-cuts through the ferrite beads and
solder them in place.
We recommend that IC1 is installed
using a socket. Make sure its pin 1 dot/
notch faces toward CON9, as shown.
Fit the two 470pF MKT/MKP/ceramic
capacitors next. Any of these types can
be used, but if you use ceramics, they
must use the NP0 or COG dielectrics for
excellent low-distortion performance.
If building the standalone version,
you can now bend REG1’s leads to fit
the pads, attach it to the board using
the specified machine screw and nut
and solder and trim its three leads.
Mount the remaining capacitors
such as the 100nF MKT polyester or
ceramic and the 100µF electrolytic
capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors are
polarised so the longer positive leads
must go through the holes marked “+”.
Note that only one 100µF capacitor is
needed when the Audio Selector is
used as part of a preamplifier.
Fit the six transistors next. You may
need to gently bend their leads out
(eg, using small pliers) to fit the PCB
footprints. Ensure the flat sides face
as shown.
Construction continues with the installation of the 3-way pin header for
JP1 and the 10-way and 14-way box
headers, CON9 and CON10. These
sockets must be installed with their
slotted keyways orientated as shown.
Remember that you don’t need CON9
for the standalone version, but you do
need CON11, so now is a good time
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: follow this diagram and the photo below to build the main Audio Selector PCB. Make sure that the header
sockets are correctly orientated, as well as IC1, the diodes and electrolytic capacitors. Note that CON1, D7, the two 100µF
capacitors and REG1 are only installed if you are building it as a standalone unit.
to fit it.
Finally, complete the assembly by
installing the six relays, the stereo RCA
input sockets and the two vertical RCA
output sockets. The red vertical RCA
socket goes on the left and the white
socket on the right. These colours then
match those for the CON1-CON6 stereo sockets.
Once you’ve finished soldering
the parts to the board, plug the pro-
siliconchip.com.au
grammed microcontroller (IC1) into
its socket, ensuring that it is orientated correctly.
Front panel control board
assembly
There only a few parts on the control board but be careful to install the
parts on the correct side of the PCB.
The component footprints are screen
printed on the side they should be in-
Australia’s electronics magazine
stalled. Pushbutton switches S1-S6
and IRD1 are on one side (the underside, as shown in Fig.4), and the 14way IDC header CON12, the resistors
and 100µF capacitor are on the other
(top side).
IRD1, the 100µF capacitor and 100Ω
resistor are not required when the Audio Selector is part of a preamplifier.
Fit the pushbuttons first but note
that they must be installed the right
September 2019 79
Fig.4: the six pushbutton switches and infrared receiver IRD1 (for the standalone
version) are mounted on the back of the pushbutton board (which faces towards
the front of the unit when installed) while the header socket, resistors and
capacitor go on the top (with CON12’s keyway towards S3 and S4). Make sure
that the longer straight lead of each pushbutton goes to the pad marked “A”.
way around. These have kinked pins
at each corner plus two straight pins
for the integral blue LED. The anode
pin is the longer of the two, and this
must go in the hole marked “A” on the
PCB (towards CON12).
Once the pins are in, push the buttons all the way down so that they sit
flush against the PCB before soldering
their leads. IDC header CON12 can
then be installed on the other side of
the board, with its keyway notch towards the bottom.
IRD1, the 100Ω resistor and the
100µF capacitor should now be fitted,
if building the standalone version. The
100Ω resistor and 100µF capacitor are
mounted on the same side as CON12
while IRD1 is mounted on the pushbutton side, with its lens in line with
the switches. The leads are bent at right
angles, and it is mounted so that IRD1
is at the same height as the buttons.
alone unit, you only need to make the
14-way cable which connects the two
boards, shown at the bottom of Fig.5.
Otherwise, make both the cables, including the 10-way cable that will connect back to the preamplifier board.
If you’re building this unit as an
upgrade to an existing preamplifier
which already has the three-way input switcher, you should already have
those cables.
Pin 1 is indicated on each socket
by a small triangle moulded into the
plastic, while wire 1 in each section
of ribbon cable should be red. The red
stripe of the cable must go to pin 1.
The best way to crimp the IDC connectors onto the cables is by using a
dedicated crimping tool such as IDC
crimping tool (eg, Altronics T1540).
Alternatively, you can crimp them
in a vice or using large pliers that have
jaw protectors, or a woodworker’s
screw-adjust G clamp with the IDC
connector sandwiched between two
strips of timber.
Don’t forget to fit the locking bars to
the headers after crimping, to secure
the cable in place. Having completed
the cables, it’s a good idea to check that
they have been correctly terminated.
The best way to do this is to plug them
into the matching sockets on the PCB
assemblies and then check for continuity between the corresponding pins at
either end using a multimeter.
When complete, plug the 14-way cable into CON10 and CON12. The 10way IDC cable (if used) connects between CON9 of the 6-Input Audio Selector and CON7 on the preamplifier.
Now place the shorting block on
JP1 in the correct position, ie, to the
left if you are building this as part of
a preamplifier, or to the right if it is a
standalone unit.
If upgrading an existing preamp, ensure that its onboard micro has been
programmed with the revised firmware, coded 0111111M.HEX, which
can be downloaded from the SILICON
CHIP website.
Initial testing
Before programming the remote, it’s
worthwhile to power the unit up and
check that the pushbutton, relays and
Making the cables
You need to make the interconnecting cables before you can test the Audio Selector. If you’re building a stand80
Silicon Chip
Fig.5: this shows how to make the two ribbon cables. Only the bottom one is
required if building the standalone unit. If upgrading an existing preamp which
already had a 3-input switcher, you should already have both cables.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
LED indicators work as expected. If
you’re building it as a standalone unit,
this is easily done by feeding 9-15V
DC into CON11.
Otherwise, you will need to plug the
unit into the preamp board and power
it in the usual way.
You can run the preamp off an AC
plugpack for testing, if you have one,
via a rectifier and regulator board
(eg, our Universal Regulator from the
March 2011 issue; see siliconchip.
com.au/Article/930). You can switch
to using a mains-based power supply
once testing is complete.
Apply power and check that one
LED lights up and you should hear
a relay click on when power is applied. Press all the buttons and verify
that you hear a click and that the LED
in that button lights up, with all the
others off.
If you want, you can feed an audio signal into each input in turn and
check that it’s only fed through to the
output connectors when that input is
selected.
Setting up the remote control
The remote control functions can
now be tested using a suitable universal remote, as described below. By
default, the Audio Selector expects
remote control codes for a Philips TV.
If this conflicts with any other equipment in your possession, you can
switch it to use SAT1 or SAT2 instead.
If you have built the Audio Selector as a standalone unit, all you need
to do to change modes is to press and
hold S1 on the pushbutton board during power-up to switch to using the
SAT1 code, or S2 for SAT2. Pressing
and holding S3 at power-up reverts to
the default TV mode.
It’s a bit more tricky if you’re building this as part of a preamplifier because the preamp board has no way
of reading the switch states.
So in this case, you have to unplug
the 10-way cable from CON7 on the
preamp board and then use a femalefemale jumper lead to temporarily
short pins 1 and 9. Apply power, wait
a few seconds, then switch off, remove
the jumper cable and plug the ribbon
cable back in. That selects the SAT1
mode. To select SAT2 mode, bridge
pins 3 and 9 instead. To go back to the
TV code, bridge pins 5 and 9.
Pin 1 is the one in the upper righthand corner of CON7, nearest to the
microcontroller, while pin 9 is in the
siliconchip.com.au
upper left-hand corner. Pin 3 is immediately to the left of pin 1 and so on.
Programming the remote
itself
Once you’ve chosen the mode, the
correct code must be programmed into
the remote control. This involves selecting TV, SAT1 or SAT2 on the remote (to agree with the microcontroller set-up) and then programming in
a three or four-digit number to tell the
remote control to send the codes that
the unit is expecting to receive.
Most universal remote controls
can be used, such as the Altronics
A1012 ($29.95) and the Jaycar AR1955
($29.95) or AR1954 ($39.95). For the
Altronics A1012, use a code of 023 or
089 for TV mode, 242 for SAT1 or 245
for SAT2. Similarly, for the Jaycar remotes, use code 1506 for TV, 0200 for
SAT1 or 1100 for SAT2.
In the case of other universal remotes, it’s just a matter of testing the
various codes until you find one that
works. Start with Philips devices as
these are the most likely to work. There
are usually no more than 15 codes (and
usually fewer) listed for each Philips
device, so it shouldn’t take long to find
the correct one.
Note that some codes may only partially work, eg, they might control the
volume on the preamplifier but not
the input selection. In that case, try
a different code. Also, some remotes
may only work in one mode (eg, TV
but not SAT).
Once you have set up the remote
control, you can power the unit up
and complete the testing process by
pressing the buttons 1-6 in sequence
and verifying that the corresponding
LED lights up and the relays click over.
Troubleshooting
If you run into any problems, the
most likely causes are improperly
crimped or wired cables, mixed up
or reversed components, bad solder
joints or unprogrammed/incorrectly
programmed microcontrollers.
These problems can all cause similar faults, so if it doesn’t work the first
time, go over the boards and compare
them to Figs.3 & 4. Ensure that all
components have been installed correctly, then carefully inspect the solder joints to make sure you haven’t
missed any, you have used sufficient
solder and there are no dry joints or
solder bridges.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Presumably, you checked the continuity of your cables earlier, but if
not, do so now. It’s common to have
problems with an IDC ribbon cable
because the crimp has not been done
with sufficient force for all the blades
to cut through the insulation and make
good contact with the copper inside.
If the unit responds to the 1, 2, 3,
4, 5 & 6 buttons on the remote but the
button switches don’t work, check that
the IDC ribbon cable to the pushbutton board has been plugged into the
line sockets properly. Similarly, if the
preamp remote volume function works
but not the remote input selection,
check the cable from the preamplifier
board to the input selector board.
Since the cable from the preamplifier board also supplies power to
the other two boards, it’s worthwhile
checking that there is 5V between pins
5 & 14 of IC1 on the Audio Selector
board. Also, check that JP1 is in the
correct position.
If everything works except the remote control, check that it has fresh
batteries. If it does, most likely it is
not programmed for the code that the
unit is expecting. Re-check that you
have set up the Audio Selector board
to the right code, and programmed the
remote control with the correct corresponding code.
Mounting it in the case
If building a standalone unit, you
will need to choose a case large
enough to mount both boards, ie, at
least 200mm wide and 150mm deep.
If powering it from a plugpack, fit a
chassis-mount concentric DC socket
and wire it up to CON11.
The 12mm tapped spacers can be
used to mount the main board in the
bottom of the box, while the 6.3mm
tapped spacers areused to mount the
front panel board after drilling six
9mm diameter holes spaced 15.1mm
apart for S1-S6.
Once you’ve made those holes, you
can temporarily fit the front panel
board and mark out the locations of
the four mounting holes, then drill
them to 3mm.
You may want to use black machine
screws to attach the front panel board
to the front of the case if using a black
case, so they are not so visible, and
possibly even use countersink head
screws. It would also be a good idea
to attach some rubber feet to the bottom of the case.
SC
September 2019 81
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$
SAVE 25%
25
D 0504A
$
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D 0507A 2A 8000mAh
Super Slim Battery Banks
Emergency pocket power supply for
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USB recharge (cable included).
The perfect every day accessory for the handbag. • Dual
mirror (with magnified view) • LED ring light for a clear
view • 3000mAH battery bank for recharging your phone
• Includes carry case and charging cable.
99
$
240V
power from
a lithium
battery!
Compact
go anywhere
power
station
This multi-function
portable solar generator
/ 42,000mAh battery
bank is ideal for outdoor
activities. Power 240V AC
appliances while you’re
out in the sticks! Plus
2.1mm DC power & USB
charging.
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M 8199A
225
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S 2682
119
129
Includes
jump starter
& air compressor
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$
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M 8198
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44
$
Inflate a tyre. Start a flat battery.
Great for the 4WD or car enthusiast. Features a 16800mAh battery
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time). Provides 600A peak battery cranking output. 12/16/19V & USB
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Dual 12V Car Battery Isolator Kit
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.95
60
D 2207
M 8182 100W
Phone Holder with
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Simply place your phone in the holder
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M 8181 75W
Handy Step Down
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Power 110-120V appliances from
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American appliances in Australia!
Fitted with US mains socket.
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SW5042/3 have on/off switch.
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SW5046
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$6.95
$9.95
Size
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19.95
$
15
$
USB NiMH &
NiCad Charger
P 8133B
A 0290
Charges 4 x AAA/AA cells via
USB. Great for use at home or
in the car. Use rechargeables &
save batteries from landfill!
Mains Energy
Consumption Meter
Monitor the real running costs
of electrical appliances around
the home or office. Easy in-line
plugin operation.
39.95
69.95
$
Easy Read
DC Energy Meter
Q 0589
Simultaneous display of
voltage, current, power and
energy (Wh) readings. Ideal
for DC battery monitoring and
small solar systems. Requires
85x45mm cutout. 20A max.
$
Price Breakthrough!
20A Solar Charger
N 2018
High current solar chargers were once sold
for over $200 - these new quality units are
less than $100 and feature USB charging
and a full LCD readout with essential battery
information. Suits 12/24V systems.
altronics.com.au » 24/7 ordering » In-store order pick up. » Fast delivery.
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119
59.95
this price!
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$
$
T 2090
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719
Great for
cleaning
Mum’s
jewellery!
Top buy for
the student
or home
handyman
$
Q 0203A
X 0109
100MHz 2 Ch. Digital Storage Oscilloscope
Bargain 40W Soldering Station
The pefect balance of value for money and features for
beginners or cash strapped students and enthusiasts. Slim,
lightweight non-slip handle with tip cleaning sponge and iron
safety holder. Full range of spare tips also available.
Perfect for those in R&D or servicing. • 2 channels with real-time 1GSa/s sampling.
• Colour 7” TFT screen • Displays waveform plus the measured wave voltage,
peak to peak plus RMS, frequency, duty cycle etc. • Realtime measurement PC
software. • USB datalogging • 2 year warranty. Q 0203A
Wire Stripper
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Crimper Toolbox
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11 Pc Screwdriver Set
T 2198B
Quality set of flat blade and phillips screwdrivers
for general repairs. Chrome vanadium.
space
Combines
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a ratchet
wire stripper,
cutting blade & kwik
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and yellow sheaths).
Suits 10-24 AWG
cable.
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35
$
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30
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T 1528A
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A 22pc ratchet set designed for working in
tight spaces. Fits in the palm of your hand, or
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and sockets.
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50
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19
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29
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T 2175A
T 2171
Palm Ratchet Driver Set
$
Ideal for technicians working on mains powered
equipment. Includes cutters, pliers, wire strippers,
5 screwdrivers plus a neon test driver and 2 rolls of
insulation tape - all in a handy carry case.
Smaller sizes than most 1000V rated driver
sets. Ideal for servicing AC equipment. 3 flat
blade (2.0, 2.5 & 3mm) and 3 phillips (#000,
#00, #0).
A tool for every occasion! Features 95 security,
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New in test & tools.
101 Pc Ratchet Driver Kit
89
Q 0965
GREAT
FOR DIY
ART!
600A Clamp Meter
Safe and easy measurement of AC
& DC voltage/current. In-built non
contact voltage detection indicates
live AC wiring. Includes test probes,
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A 1300°C
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Installer
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Q 1090
6 colour multi
colour pack
of filament
K 8405 $24.95
79.95
$
With in-built AC mains detection. Featuring
a striking easy to read reverse backlit screen
and a massive 9999 count readout. Auto
ranging with easy push button operation.
Great price and build quality.
Crimps virtually any type of coaxial RF connector!
All metal crimp tool includes 5 sets of jaws to suit
BNC, F, TNC, N, PL259, PAL & SMA. Strippers
and cutters also included.
Whisk away
solder fumes
from your workspace instantly!
Also works as a
fan. Adjustable
speed.
69
$
T 1296
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15%
K 8300
3D Printing Pen
9999 Count True RMS DMM
Specialist Coaxial Crimper Kit
Solder Fume
Extractor
NEW
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Easy to
read backlit
LCD
Iroda® Mini
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T 2174
T 2186A
1000V Precision Driver Kit
.95
Uses water, detergent and ultrasonic waves
to remove gunk from small parts, spectacles,
jewellery, even DVDs! No solvents required.
Stainless steel 18x8x6cm tank.
T 2188
1000V Rated Insulated Tool Kit
$
Clean & revive tiny parts
A crafty addition to any work space,
this handheld pen extrudes 1.75mm
PLA or ABS filament for decorating
objects, plastic repair jobs or touch ups
to 3D printed models. Easy to use with
adjustable extrusion speed. Includes 12m
of PLA filament.
See last page for store locations or visit altronics.com.au
2 For
$
25
P 8110
Keep Long Cables Neat & Tidy.
Grab a couple for the workshop or van! Keep
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Project Parts ‘a’ Plenty
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Z 6516 7” 1024x600
Neon Flex Rope
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Coloured
Gaming Switches
Z 6513 5” 800x480
Large Touchscreens For Raspberry Pi
®
Heavy Duty
Arcade Joystick
USB Interface
For Joystick &
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Great for retro gaming
projects or for direction
control in serious projects.
Adjustable plate allows
2, 4 or 8 way control.
95x59mm mounting plate.
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X 3300
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Colour
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A handy interface board
for a joystick and up
to 12 arcade buttons.
Includes pre-terminated
cables.
19.95
S 1148
$
S 1147
ea
S 0910 Red
S 0911 Green
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Jumbo arcade machine
momentary switches with 12V
illumination and customisable
button plate. 25mmØ hole.
• Great for integrated projects, mini game consoles, information stands, mini
PCs etc • Works with raspbian & ubuntu • Easy HDMI connection. Z 6302C
Raspberry Pi to suit (Model 3B+) $75.
NEW!
9
$ .95
Use it in long lengths for
stunning coloured lighting
effects or cut and shape
into your own custom
“neon” signs. Ultra flexible
outer sheath. Cuts every
50mm. 12V input, bare
end connection - works
great with P 0610A
2.1mm DC jack. IP65
weatherproof. 5m reels.
15ea
19.95
$
$
Aluminium 12V LED Strips
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25
$
Z 6381
19
$
Z 6441
23.95
$
Z 6510A
NodeMCU ESP8266 Board
ESP8266EX
Mini Wi-Fi Module
2.8” Touch Arduino UNO Shield
With Wi-Fi for easy plug and play
connected projects. GPIO breakout pins,
full USB-serial interface and pre-flashed
NodeMCU in one compact package!
A complete and self-contained WiFi
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host MCUs. 3.3V input.
A 240x320px touchscreen shield for Arduino
utilising the ILI9341 chipset. 3.3/5V input.
X 3250 Warm White
X 3251 Natural White
• Stylish LED strips for workspaces, cabinets, cars etc
• Easy to mount & power. • 25Wx10Hx500Lmm.
• 4 strips can be daisychained using X 3255 joiner ($2.95)
• Suggest M 8936B 2A plugpack ($21.50).
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
VIC
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Z 6467
45
$
IoT Arduino Development Board
Connect your Arduino design to the internet-ofthings with this handy W5500 ethernet board with
atmega328p on board. Fully UNO compatible with
USB download & micro SD slot.
NEW!
Z 6443
NEW!
7
13
$ .95
2A Lithium
Charger Module
A compact module for charge management of lithium cells. Accepts 5-18V DC
input, provides 4.2V charging output.
.95
$
MG90S Micro Metal Servo
A high speed metal geared servo with
2kg/cm torque. Weighs 14.5 grams.
180 degree rotation (±90°).
Z 6442
NEW!
NEW!
19.95
19.95
$
K 9815
ATDev Shield for ATTiny Kit
A powerful and versatile programming and breakout shield for ATtiny. Combine with a UNO for
instantl programmer and debugging.
NEW!
14.95
$
D 0010
PC Hardware Kit
A handy 228pc set of common computer for hard drives, motherboard
standoffs and cooling fans.
$
LN298 Dual Motor Module
designed to drive inductive loads, such
as relays, solenoids, DC and stepping
motors. 2 channels. 5V input.
03 9549 2188
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Arduino
Keypad Plate
Perfect for Arduino
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handy wallplate has
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shields. K 9650
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
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Z 6444
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40
$
ProtoHAT for
Raspberry Pi®
HAT board with soldermasked 0.1” holes &
stackable GPIO header.
Pi sold separately.
Z 6307
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10
$
Anderson SBS
Mini Connectors
Supplied with connector
housing & contacts.
Genderless design.
P 7790 15A
P 7794 30A
P 7798 45A
NEW!
7
$ .95
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rates.
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Giving an old companion its voice back
I’ve always been interested in loudspeakers.
Their electromechanical nature appeals
to me, as a good speaker needs to be both
mechanically and electrically sound, the
two parts working together in harmony. It
amazes me that despite modern technology
and improved materials, their basic
operation hasn’t changed in many decades.
Modern speakers tend to be more efficient, and usually offer a wider frequency range in a similar-sized cabinet compared to older speakers. But I
don’t think they necessarily sound as
good as older models.
Of course, this is open to argument.
There have been endless flame wars,
err, I mean discussions online as to
what is the best type of speaker. Some
quote specs to prove how much better their speakers are. But like many
others, I don’t care about the figures
as much as how the speakers actually
sound to me.
Money for nothing
I’ve spent a good deal of time in recording studios and high-end showrooms over the years listening to expensive drivers. They don’t always
sound as good to me as the numbers
suggest. While it could be that I’m just
an audio philistine, I know what I like.
Merely throwing money at speakers
with fancy-sounding European names
doesn’t guarantee pleasing results.
I’d also argue that the speaker is
merely one of the components in a
system; all the components need to be
up to scratch. Driving a $5000 set of
speakers from a cheap and nasty amplifier (or even an expensive one, if it’s
poorly designed) won’t do them any
favours. And running a rubbish set of
speakers from a $5000 reference amplifier is just a waste of money.
The fact is that all speakers are not
created equal, and the extensive range
of cabinets, enclosure materials, driv86
Silicon Chip
er constructions/configurations and
crossover designs means there’s a lot
of room for experimentation.
Anyone who has kept up with hifi
magazines will be aware of the trends
and fads that have come and gone over
the years, with speakers made of everything from concrete tubes to metal
drums and even cardboard.
I recall back in the 70s, a family
friend showing off his expensive (and
admittedly cool-looking) electrostatic
speakers; the first I’d seen outside of
magazines.
When he fired them up though, I
wasn’t as blown away as I thought I
would be. They sounded good, but
I reckoned our middle-of-the-road
system at home sounded better. And
while our speakers didn’t look like a
couple of framed antique prints hanging on the wall, at least if I cranked
the volume, I could feel the sound as
well as hear it.
Editor’s note: electrostatic speakers
can give excellent mid-high definition but are famously lacking in bass,
with some having integrated magnetic woofers to try to overcome this
limitation.
However, home stereo systems are
not the only domain of quality drivers.
The live music and sound reinforcement worlds feature some serious,
high-wattage hardware. Whether it’s
an 18-inch bass driver designed for PA
systems or a 10, 12 or 15-inch instrument speaker, the type and quality of
driver used will profoundly affect the
resulting sound.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Dave Thompson
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Guitar speaker re-coning
Fixing an inverter arc welder
Panasonic AM/FM radio repair
Double wall oven repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Let’s say I buy a generic 12-inch,
50W speaker from the local electronics store. It’s likely a lot cheaper than
buying a speaker designed specifically for instrument amplification, but it
will almost certainly not give me the
sound I’m looking for, and given the
punishing output of an overdriven
guitar amplifier, it may not last very
long either.
Listen to the music
Choosing the right speaker can
therefore be a bit of a mission. Only
the individual knows what sounds
good, and this knowledge is not always transferrable to somebody else.
Looking at catalogs doesn’t help much
either, with lots of purple prose being
used to describe speakers to potential
buyers.
It’s a bit like trying to describe colour to a blind person; for example, the
literature for guitar speakers throws
around terms like “crunch”, “throaty”,
“warmth”, “vintage”, “punch”, “expressiveness” and “chime”. But what
do these terms really mean? Half of
them sound more like terms you’d
expect to hear when wine tasting, not
shopping for a loudspeaker!
Most of the musicians I know simply go down to a music shop, plug in
their instrument and play various amp
and speaker combos until they find one
that sounds like what they are after.
I’ve only ever purchased one speaker from a catalog, and that was for
someone who specifically wanted it
to put into an existing cabinet. The
siliconchip.com.au
result wasn’t to my taste, and certainly didn’t match what I interpreted the
catalog’s descriptive terms to mean,
but he was rapt with it, which is the
key point I guess.
This is why musicians become passionate about their gear. We’ve usually
spent years getting our sound, and we
don’t want to have to go through all
that drama again. Besides, this newfangled stuff generally doesn’t sound
as good. So losing an amp or speaker
can be like losing an old friend.
Having gear nicked by some chancer
at a gig, or damaged on-stage by a bandmate who has had one too many falling
into it can be tough to take. Losing a
‘vintage’ amp or speaker is even worse,
as these can literally be irreplaceable.
The sounds of silence
Recently, one of my speakers failed;
an ancient Celestion G12-65 (12-inch,
65W, 8W) used mainly for workshop
testing. I’m not sure why it popped,
but given it is at least 35 years old it
could have just thrown in the towel.
It worked the last time I used it, but
when I plugged it in the other day to
test a valve amplifier I’d repaired, there
was nobody home. I first thought I’d
messed up the amp repair, but on fursiliconchip.com.au
ther testing, I discovered the speaker’s
voice coil was open circuit.
I was despondent, as this speaker
has been with me through thick and
thin. While checking online and reeling at today’s prices for a replacement,
I came across some Celestion re-coning
kits and thought that this was a perfect solution.
Back in the day, proper re-coning
kits were hard to come by and expensive; now they’re a dime a dozen.
At $65 including shipping, it was a
lot cheaper than replacing the whole
speaker, which all things considered
is actually still in pretty good nick, the
blown voice coil aside.
The rub with replacing a voice coil
(pun intended!) is that to get to the
coil, everything has to come out of the
basket (the metal frame of the speaker).
And those parts are generally glued in
pretty well.
It might be possible to remove the
old cone and spider (the flexible, corrugated disc that covers and protects
the coil cavity) intact, using a razorblade or similar. But it simply isn’t
necessary as there is a new cone, spider and dust-cap (the bit in the centre
of most speakers) provided in the kit.
I can already hear the purists wailAustralia’s electronics magazine
ing about the fact this will no longer
be a vintage speaker. But I’m OK with
that; I’d rather have a newish working
speaker than a dead vintage one cluttering up the workshop.
When the kit arrived, I first tested
the new voice coil; I didn’t want to
go through replacing everything only
to fit a dud.
The old speaker had a nominal
impedance of 8W, and while the
replacement coil read only 6.3W on
my multimeter, that’s actually correct.
A multimeter measures the DC resistance only, not the complex reactance,
which depends on frequency.
September 2019 87
You probably wouldn’t get a correct
impedance measurement for a coil by
itself anyway, as there is a mechanical
component to the reactance as well as
the fact that the coil is inductive.
To measure the impedance of a driver, you need to use a specialised tester.
Or you can hook up a sinewave signal
generator to the input of an amplifier,
connect the driver to the amplifier via
a high-power fixed value resistor, then
measure the varying voltage across the
driver. Some basic calculations using
Ohm’s Law then give you the impedance at a given frequency.
Don’t fear the repair
Re-coning is often seen as a complicated process not worth doing, so
many people don’t even consider it.
But I’ve done it quite a few times over
the years and if I can do it successfully, so can anyone. I’m no magician!
Just a guy with some tools and a little
bit of knowledge, and I’m not afraid
to have a go.
I started the job at hand by preparing to remove the old cone. The spider
and voice coil are connected to the bottom of it, and the leads from the coil
are soldered to the terminal on the
88
Silicon Chip
basket. So I first had to release those
wire connectors. I could have just cut
them off, but I wanted to get an idea
of their overall length, so I heated and
un-wrapped them instead.
I then used a hobby knife to cut
around the edge of the spider and removed enough of it to allow me to see
and mark the voice coil resting depth
in the magnet cavity with a sharpie;
I might need this approximate measurement later.
Next, I cut the cone away as close to
the basket as possible, leaving the gasket (the thick mounting material stuck
over and around the outside edge of
the cone) behind.
The whole assembly was then lifted
clear, and I noted the state of the voice
coil as it exited the magnet cavity; in
this case, it appeared undamaged. This
may seem an odd thing to do, but it
tells me whether I should check the
magnet aperture more closely for blobs
of melted wire or other debris.
With the cone clear, I quickly sealed
the open coil cavity using several
strips of masking tape. In a workshop
like mine, there are metal off-cuts and
dust everywhere, no matter how well
I clean it. Murphy’s Law dictates that
Australia’s electronics magazine
some of this will find its way into that
gap otherwise.
Given the size and strength of the
magnets on guitar speakers, which are
typically welded or otherwise permanently bonded to the basket, the potential for contamination is high. Removing anything magnetic that gets stuck
in there can be very difficult.
I know techs who don’t bother with
this masking-off ritual, especially if
they are going to re-cone the speaker
immediately, but I neglected to do this
on one of the first speakers I re-coned
and some foreign objects got in there.
It was a right-royal pain clearing them
out. For the sake of a minute or two of
time and a few strips of tape, I avoided
much potential misery.
I proceeded to strip the basket of the
remaining gasket, cone and spider material. It depends on how this has been
attached as to how much work it will
be to remove it. In this case, they used
some kind of cement. I used a hobby
knife and razor-scraper to very carefully cut the remains as close to the
basket rim as I could.
The possibility for slipping and
carving up one’s own hands at this
point is very high, and as I’d done exactly that a few times as a youngster
building model aircraft, I was particularly averse to having it happen now.
Nothing teaches sensible tool skills
better than the memory of a painful injury (and boy, do I have a few of those,
as regular readers will know)!
Even though I cut very close and
removed almost all of the remaining
bits, I couldn’t get it all with a knife.
While I could possibly have glued
the new bits onto this and had no further problems, it only takes a slight
amount of asymmetry at the wide edge
of the cone to stress it. That can result
in the voice coil rubbing on the side
of the magnet cavity or non-optimal
sound reproduction, even if the voice
coil does clear the sides.
It is well worth the extra effort to
clear the old glue and cone from the
basket completely. In such cases, I
break out my trusty rotary tool and use
it with a brass wire-wheel attachment
to clean up the rest. This tool is speedadjustable and perfect for the job, but
it does make a real mess, so I made
sure to do this job outside (see above
on sealing the magnet gap!).
A quick brush and vacuum afterwards had the basket completely free
of any debris. Compressed air can also
siliconchip.com.au
be used, but I’m wary of blowing more
rubbish about, so prefer the vacuum
cleaner option.
Before going any further, I checked
that the basket was still reasonably flat
by sitting it face-down on a saw-bench
table. These speakers can get knocked
about a lot on tour, and over-worked
(and possibly over-enthusiastic) roadies can sometimes distort the basket
when securing the driver to a cabinet
using power screwdrivers.
A twisted basket can result in a
trickier set-up during the re-coning
process, and baskets that are out-ofround or too far gone usually need to
be replaced. This one was still fine,
despite its long history.
Meet the new cone,
same as the old cone
Speaker coning kits come in several
forms; some are pre-assembled, which
means the voice coil, spider and cone
are all glued together at the factory.
This makes the job considerably easier, as the new assembly can simply be
dropped into the basket, aligned and
glued down.
However, many kits come as separate components, and while this makes
things a little trickier, the process is
still relatively straightforward. My kit
came unassembled.
After double-checking there was
nothing loose that could foul things
up, I removed the masking tape covering the voice coil gap. Despite having
taken this measure, I decided to check
that the gap was clean by wrapping
some double-sided tape onto an old
ice-cream stick and inserting it into the
coil gap, probing it around inside the
cavity to pick up anything that might
have gotten in there.
The first tape came away slightly
grubby, so I repeated the process with
fresh tape a couple of times until it
came out completely clean.
I compared the new voice coil to the
old one, making sure they were the
same physical size; they were. I positioned the new coil into the gap, using the supplied Mylar shims packed
around the inside edge to centre everything properly over the magnet. I then
adjusted the coil to sit at roughly the
same height as the mark I’d made on
the old one; I’d fine-tune it later once
the spider and cone had been fitted.
I used a spare shim to check there
was enough clearance between the
outside of the coil and the magnet and
siliconchip.com.au
ensured the coil’s flat, tab-like connecting leads were positioned directly adjacent to the basket terminals, where
they’d eventually be connected.
I then dry-fitted the rest of the components; though my kit was unassembled, at least the cone and spider had
been pre-cut to the right size. Two
small holes for the voice coil connections hadn’t been made in the new
cone though, so after referring to the
old cone, I used a scriber to punch
new holes in the same locations on
the new one.
Satisfied everything fitted, I glued
the spider to the basket using the supplied adhesive, with the voice coil’s
tabs protruding through the centre of
the spider. After clearing excess glue,
I left it overnight to cure.
The next morning, I used epoxy resin to ring the centre of the spider, the
voice coil former and the rim of the
basket. I then set the cone into place
and gently twisted it side-to-side to
bed it into the glue. I also let this set
overnight.
The following day, I carefully slid
the plastic shims out and gently moved
the cone back and forth to check that
the voice coil was clear; all was well.
After soldering two lengths of the
supplied ‘tinsel’ wire to the voice coil
tabs, which now sat at the base of the
new cone, I fed them through the holes
I’d made in the cone and soldered them
to the basket terminals. Finally, I centred and glued the dust cap to the cone,
using some of the glue to run over the
short lengths of exposed tinsel wire.
I used the same glue to stick the
four-part, hard-cardboard gasket ring
around the top edge of the cone, and
the job was done.
I tested the speaker. It sounds as
good to my ears as it ever did. Quite
“crunchy”, “throaty” and “punchy” in
fact. I’d go as far as maybe even calling it “gravelly”!
Inverter welder repair
Don’t you hate it when you buy
something, check that it works and
then put it aside, and when you go to
use it again, it doesn’t work at all? Especially if it’s no longer under warranty! Well, that’s almost what happened
to B. P., with his wonderful new welder. He managed to get a replacement
unit but also got to keep the faulty one.
So of course, he had a go at fixing it...
I bought my first arc welder some 45
years ago. It was an Abel 110A AC unit
Australia’s electronics magazine
and over the years, I’ve done a lot of
welding with it. It’s massively heavy
with wheels and a handle to make
moving it easier. The transformer has
a copper secondary winding, which
was the standard back then, but is unheard of these days.
I’ve done very few repairs on this
unit during its life but I did replace the
electrode holder a long while back and
around five years ago, I replaced the
old dilapidated welding cables with
some 250A cables that were salvaged
from a defunct mobile diesel welder. I
still have this Abel welder and it still
works well after all this time.
Around five years ago, I bought a
smaller 100A AC arc welder from Aldi
when it was on special. This unit is
much smaller and considerably lighter than the Abel welder but it still has
a transformer, although it has an aluminium secondary. I’ve made a few
modifications and improvements to
this unit over time and it’s still working well today also.
This year, I decided to buy one of
the newer models of DC inverter welders. I chose a 250A unit, which was
the most powerful that was available
at the time. It weighs around 5kg and
is smaller than the 100A Aldi unit
while delivering 2.5 times the amperage. That just goes to show how fast
technology improves.
After the welder arrived, I unpacked
it and connected the cables and did
some test welds. I was impressed
with the high current and the ease of
striking the arc. I’ve only ever previously used AC arc welders and it’s a
lot harder to strike an arc with an AC
welder than a DC welder.
After the successful test, I put the
welder away, as I didn’t have an immediate need to do any welding. Around
six months later, I got the welder out
to do a small welding job but I was
amazed and disappointed to find that
it no longer worked. All I got was a
tiny spark which looked like it was
about 10A worth. I suspect this was
from the power source intended to initiate the arc. But where was the main
welding current?
Fortunately, the welder was still
under warranty, being less than 12
months old, so I contacted the seller,
who requested a video of the fault,
which I supplied. The seller then
promptly sent me an identical replacement welder but they didn’t want the
old welder back. With the high cost
September 2019 89
This photo shows the repaired arc welder PCB, with the problem diode circled.
All six diodes were re-soldered. Note the generally poor soldering quality. Many
of the SMD pads have lumpy-looking joints, indicating a lack of flux activation.
of repairs these days, it must have
been cheaper for them to just replace
the faulty unit with a new one, rather
than having it sent in for inspection
and possible repair.
As soon as the replacement welder
arrived, I tested it and confirmed that
it was working correctly and I put it
away. Then I contacted the seller again
and thanked them for their excellent
service and very fast replacement of
the defective welder.
The repair
Now that the original welder was officially scrapped, I could take it apart
and have a look at it. It would have
voided my warranty but the warranty
now applied to the new unit, so there
was no reason not to open up this nonworking welder to see if I could fix it.
I removed the eight screws securing
the top cover, lifted it off and put it
aside. I could now see the inner workings, which consisted of a couple of
circuit boards and a lot of aluminium
heat sinks. It still looked brand new
inside, which was not surprising, because it had barely been used.
The first thing I did was to remove
the main circuit board and inspect the
soldering on the back for any faulty
joints. On a previous occasion, my
gasless MIG welder had developed a
fault whereby the wire speed control
no longer worked and the wire ran at
full speed. It turned out to be noth90
Silicon Chip
ing more than dry joints on the PCB,
which was an easy fix, so I wondered
if a similar fault might be at work here.
But the PCB soldering was all good,
so I turned my attention to the component side of the board, where I looked
for any obvious signs of blown-up
components. I found nothing, so I took
a closer look with a magnifying glass,
but there was still nothing obvious.
I was beginning to think that this
fault was beyond my ability, due to
the obvious complexity of the circuitry
involved in the unit, when I noticed
something that was not quite right.
There were six of what appeared to be
surface-mount diodes next to a small
daughter-board and the middle diode
(D15) on the right-hand side just didn’t
look right.
This diode was sitting at an angle and one of its legs appeared to be
raised slightly above its solder pad. It
looked like a manufacturing defect,
where the component had not adhered
to the PCB and therefore was not soldered properly, but it must have been
initially touching the pad for the welder to have worked in the first place.
I was sceptical that this could be
the fault that had stopped the welder
from working, but I also wondered if
it might be the culprit.
As this was the only obvious thing I
could see at this time, I decided to resolder the leg of diode D15 and while
I was at it, I also re-soldered both ends
Australia’s electronics magazine
of all the diodes, as they all looked to
be lacking a good amount of solder at
their joints. This isn’t the first time
I’ve seen something like this (see the
photo of the repair).
I then connected the welder up
again and got out what I needed to
do a quick test, just in case it was
now working again. I wasn’t really
expecting it to work, as I didn’t think
that something as simple as this minor manufacturing defect could have
caused the failure. However, as I didn’t
know just how this circuit worked, it
was a possibility.
To my astonishment, the welder was
now working properly again. I was
amazed that just one bad solder joint
in this part of the circuit had been the
cause of the failure. I almost couldn’t
believe that I’d found the fault and
fixed it so easily. I’d been expecting to
find something major to be wrong with
the welder that would have either been
impossible to find or impossible to fix.
I put the welder back together and
put it away. Since then, I’ve used it
several times for small welding jobs
and it has been working faultlessly.
One of the great things I’ve discovered about it is that since it’s so much
easier to strike the arc, I can use old
welding rods that I’ve had stored for
some time. Over time, the flux absorbs
moisture, which causes difficulty in
striking an arc with an AC welder.
But not so with this one! It works with
rods that I reckon I’ve had for around
25 years.
Anyway, it just goes to show that it’s
worth having a look at a faulty device,
even if you only have limited experience with repairing these devices, as
sometimes the fault is easily found
and fixed.
Panasonic RF-P50 AM/FM radio fix
G. C., of Wellington, New Zealand
rescued a Panasonic RF-P50 AM/FM
radio from the rubbish bin. As is so
often the case in equipment that is
about to be discarded, the fault was a
simple one, easily fixed by someone
with some repair skills...
The Panasonic RF-P50 in question is
powered by two AA cells and it had a
very loud crackle in the audio output
when the volume control was operated. Also, the audio would “drop out”
entirely at some positions on the volume control, making the set virtually
unusable. I thought the fix would be
trivial: all I would have to do is dissiliconchip.com.au
mantle the plastic case and clean the
volume control pot.
The previous owner had taken the
set to an electronics repair shop (there
can’t be many of those left these days,
surely) and was told the repair was uneconomic (which it probably was!).
The set was given to me and I quickly had the case apart and cleaned the
volume control pot with a cotton bud
and some isopropyl alcohol.
After re-assembly, the set worked
fine for a day or two but then the
crackle and blank spots progressively
returned until again it was unusable.
Oh well, perhaps a further clean was
required, so I did so again.
However, the fault reappeared after
each clean and the radio was eventually put aside again as unusable. That
was a shame as it worked well, with a
clear, undistorted audio output for a
period after each clean.
Finally, after some time I had a
“lightbulb moment”; I thought maybe this perhaps this was the classic
case of a DC current flowing through
the volume control potentiometer.
That would likely be due to a faulty
(leaky) series capacitor or, lacking
such a capacitor, I could add one into
the circuit.
On a rainy afternoon and with little
else to do, I once again pulled open the
Panasonic radio’s case.
The set uses a 30-pin Sony CXA1619
FM-AM receiver IC centrally placed
on the PCB, so I googled the IC number and studied a number of typical
broadcast radio receiver circuits based
on that IC, one which showed a volume control connected via capacitors
between pin 24 (the detector output)
and pin 25 (the AF input).
Although the PCB was tightly
packed with small components, the
volume control arrangement could be
seen and the voltage divider circuit
easily discerned, but no capacitors
were located in this area of the PCB.
Maybe I was on the right track after all.
I had to figure out how to fit a small
capacitor in series with the volume
control pot. I thought about cutting
the very fine track, which was going
to be quite difficult if I was to avoid
damaging the PCB. Then I realised
that the top end of the voltage divider
was connected via a miniature 2.2kW
0.25W series resistor.
All that needed to be done was to cut
one leg of the resistor, lift that end of
the resistor off the board, remove the
siliconchip.com.au
remainder of the lead from the pad
and then solder a capacitor between
the pad and the remaining lead on the
end of that resistor. And that is what I
did. I added a 100nF Mylar capacitor
in this fashion, then re-fitted the AA
battery to test it out.
What a difference it made! Even
though the volume control pot had not
been cleaned this time, a few operations of the pot cleaned up its operation and it then gave perfect audio output. After re-assembly, this little radio
was restored to pride of place in the
household. It seems obvious now that
it was a design fault all along.
One has to wonder how many other
examples of this little radio have been
tossed into the rubbish bin because of
this annoying fault.
St George DEO-6
Double Wall Oven repair
R. L., of Oatley, NSW knew that he
would be on his own when it came to
fixing a 25-year-old appliance. He used
a methodical approach, and it paid off
in the end…
Approximately 25 years ago, when
we renovated our kitchen, we bought
a St George Double Wall oven, with
digital control. It performed flawlessly
until about two years ago. Since then,
occasionally while in use, it would
emit a beep and shut down. Resetting
the circuit breaker would restore its
operation. It would then work perfectly for several months until the same
thing would happen again.
It got to the point where the fault
would occur every other time that we
used it. My wife was not happy.
As I knew there would be no service support for a 25-year-old oven, I
would need to fix it or replace it. The
oven was in otherwise perfect condition and to replace it would probably
involve modification to the surrounding cupboards, so I decided to try to
fix it first.
I found a replacement controller on
eBay, except that it was for the single
oven model. But I decided to buy it and
become familiar with the circuit before
I disassembled my oven. The module
consists of two circuit boards. One is
a power supply/relay board, and the
other, a display/controller board.
From the connection diagram supplied with the oven, I figured out how
to connect the purchased module to
mains power and the other connections; it turns out that the single oven
module is identical to the dual oven
version, but with a few parts (eg, relays) missing. I plugged it in and
ran through all the functions, and it
worked fine.
So, the big moment came, and I disassembled my oven, removed the controller connections (about 30 wires)
and connected it to my bench set-up.
I applied power and went through all
the functions; it worked as expected.
I decided to heat it up a bit and tried
again; it still worked. So, I disconnected the module, got out my magnifying headset and carefully scanned the
boards looking for dry joints, as the
problem was obviously heat-sensitive.
I found a couple of suspect joints on
the digital board and re-soldered them,
but they were not drastic and unlikely
to be the cause of the fault.
I then checked the power supply
board. All was fine until I got to the filter capacitor joints. They looked very
strange. The capacitor looked perfectly
OK from the top, but I decided to remove it because of the strange-looking
solder joints.
And that was it; the 2200µF capacitor had leaked (and probably dried
out), but because it had been sealed
to the board, no electrolyte had spread
out from the base.
I checked the other three 1000µF
electrolytic filter capacitors in the supply circuit; they looked OK, but I replaced them all, as it was reasonable
to expect that they would be on the
way out as well.
I replaced the capacitors with
105°C-rated units, cleaned up the
board, reassembled the module and
installed it. The oven now runs like
new. I saved us the cost of a new oven
and my wife is happy.
SC
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman
column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 91
Introduction to Programming – Part 2
˃Cypress’ System on a Chip
Analog/digital signals and debugging
Our last tutorial on using the Cypress Programmable
System on a Chip covered programming and using
these fascinating mixed analog/digital devices,
but being an introductory article, didn’t
go into great detail on how to use the
programmable analog features which
make them so unique. This followup article describes the more
powerful CY8CKIT-059 board
and explains how to use
its capabilities.
By Dennis Smith
O
ur previous article on using
Cypress PSoCs (October 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11269)
introduced the Cypress Semiconductor CY8CKIT-049-42XX development
code, a 32-bit ARM development platform. We described how to install and
use its integrated development environment (IDE), and provided a sample
program to read the temperature from
an NTC thermistor and display it on
an LCD screen.
This article is based on the more
powerful CY8CKIT-059 board, with
attached Serial Wire Debug adaptor
(SWD) and programmer, shown above.
Incidentally, the included SWD adaptor and programmer can also be used
with the 049-42XX boards.
The main product page for the CY8CKIT-059-5LP development board,
which contains links to extensive documentation and the relevant downloads, is at: siliconchip.com.au/link/
aaqn You may need to create a free
Cypress account to download the files.
The development board is available in Australia for just over $20 (at
the time of writing) from element14,
Mouser, RS Australia etc. The integrated development environment (IDE),
called PSoC Creator, complete with
compiler and device specific libraries
is available to download for free from
the product page above.
The CY8CKIT-059-5LP board is
92
Silicon Chip
designed around the CY8C5888LTILP097 chip (see www.cypress.com/
part/cy8c5888lti-lp097) which is
available in 68-pin QFN or 100-pin
TQFP packages (both surface-mounting). It contains an ARM Cortex-M3
32-bit CPU running at up to 80MHz,
256KB of flash memory and 64KB of
SRAM; which makes it quite powerful as microcontrollers go.
You can download the chip’s Product Overview document, which lists
all of its important features, at: www.
cypress.com/file/140796/
The chip also includes a coprocessor, called the Digital Filter Block
(DFB), which is a 24-bit digital signal
processor (DSP). A datasheet on this
co-processor can be found at: www.
cypress.com/file/315811/
The DFB is useful for certain tasks
like matrix/vector multiplication or
analog signal processing. Performing
these jobs using the DFB frees up the
main CPU for other tasks. It also includes programmable analog and digital components, such as ADCs, DACs,
timers/PWM inputs, serial communication etc.
CY8CKIT-059 Features
32-bit ARM microcontroller with 256KB flash and 64KB SRAM
24-channel direct memory access (DMA) controller
Capacitive touch sensing
Programmable analog blocks, including:
• one 8- to 20-bit delta-sigma analog-to-digital converter (ADC)
• two 12-bit successive approximation (SAR) ADCs
• analog multiplexers, which can make the ADCs multi-channel capable
• four 8-bit DACs
• four comparators
• four op amps
• four programmable analog blocks (continuous time or switched capacitor)
Programmable digital blocks:
• four timers/counters/PWM (pulse width modulators)
• 24 universal digital blocks (UDB), which include registers and an arithmetic
logic unit (ALU)
• Up to 72 input/output pins
• On-chip JTAG/debugging
• 1.2(1.7)-5.5V supply voltage
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A removable USB-to-serial and Serial Wire Debug adaptor is included in
the kit. Once you have finished your
project, the adapter can be snapped off
and used as a general-purpose USB/
serial adaptor or as a Serial Wire Debug adaptor for any of the PSoC family boards. The adaptor can also be
used as a USB to general-purpose I/O
(GPIO) device.
Becoming adept at
programming PSoCs
As with other micros, there’s a bit of
a learning curve. The curve might be
somewhat steeper with a PSoC than,
say, an Arduino, but its ultimate capabilities are far greater.
It has a 32-bit CPU rather than 8-bit,
and much more memory, but is actually cheaper than most Arduino modules. Most importantly and uniquely,
though, it has the configurable analog
blocks which give you far greater flexibility and power when it comes to
signal processing.
Probably the biggest disadvantage of
the PSoC compared to other 8-bit and
32-bit micros is that its extra capabilities translate into somewhat higher
power requirements. You are also effectively stuck using the Creator IDE
for programming PSoC boards; while
it's possible to build the project yourself, it's impractical.
It's important to note that since the
community is smaller, fewer libraries
are available for these devices compared to Arduino. Although, given the
dodginess of some of the Arduino libraries we’ve come across, sometimes
having to write your own code may be
a blessing in disguise…
to your “C:\Users\<USERNAME>\
Documents\PSoC Creator” folder.
They can be placed in other folders if
you want, but for this article, we’ll assume you’ve used this default location.
Now plug the board into a USB 2.0
port on your PC. An orange LED on
the USB-to-serial adaptor indicates
that power is present, while a flashing blue LED indicates that all is well.
Now unplug the board and plug
it back in again, but this time, holding down the button at the rear of the
board while you plug in. The blue light
should now flash at a faster rate, indicating that the board is now in bootloader mode.
With the 049-42XX board described
in the previous article, the bootloader was the only way to load programs
into the chip. This method still works
with the CY8CKIT-059 board, but with
this board, you can load your program
straight into the board without having
to enter bootloader mode.
Preparing our first example
We’ve provided two example projects this time, both included in the
free download (ZIP package) on the
Silicon Chip website. We’ll start with
the “AnalogDebugExample” project
first.
Navigate to the “AnalogDebugExample.cydsn” folder and double click on
“AnalogDebugExample.cyprj”. This
will open PSoC Creator 4.2 IDE and
load the project files automatically.
Otherwise, you can open the IDE, click
“Open Existing Project” from the Start
page and navigate to the project folder.
You should now see the block diagram shown in Fig.1. If it is not visible, double click on the “TopDesign.
cysch” tab at the top of the left panel.
Now click on the “Connections” tab
at the bottom, and you should see the
wiring diagram shown in Fig.2. This
just provides a guide for how to configure the hardware and is not required
when you make your own projects.
You can also view what pins are
actively being used on the main IC by
going to the Pins item under Design
Wide Resources in the left sidebar of
the IDE. You should see the same diagram shown in Fig.3.
Connect two pushbutton switches
to your board, as Fig.2. You can wire
the components directly to the board,
or if you solder header strips to the
development board, you can plug it
into a breadboard and then connect
the switches that way. But if you are
planning to snap off the USB-to-serial
adaptor board later, don’t solder terminal strips on just yet.
Building and uploading
To build the project before programming the hardware, click on the build
icon in the tools bar just above the
Workspace Explorer window (you can
also just press CTRL+F5). If all is well,
Using PSoC Creator
If you need a refresher on using the
software, refer to the previous article
(October 2018) on how to get started
with Cypress PSoC, including downloading and installing the PSoC Creator IDE. Note that the IDE only supports Windows PCs (7-10).
If you already have the IDE installed, you only need to download
the “CY8CKIT-059 Kit Only” file from:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaqn
Otherwise, you can download the
“CY8CKIT-059 Kit Setup” file below
it, which gives you the above files as
well as the IDE.
With the IDE installed, download
the project files for this article fromsiliconchip.com.au and unzip the files
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: block diagram of the first example program as shown in PSoC Creator.
This program uses an Arbitrary Waveform Generator (WaveDAC8) to generate a
tune that is played by pressing SW_1, and have its pitch/tempo varied via SW_2.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 93
Fig.2: wiring diagram for the first example program. Note the circuit diagram and the breadboard layout which show how
to connect an LM380 audio amplifier and speaker to the CY8CKIT-059 board.
you will see output similar to the text
below in the Output Window:
------- Build Started: 06/18/2018
14:06:49 Project: AnalogDebug,
Configuration: ARM GCC
5.4-2016-q2-update Debug ------Flash used: 6086 of 262144 bytes
(2.3%).
SRAM used: 2849 of 65536 bytes
(4.3%). Stack: 2048 bytes.
Heap: 128 bytes.
------- Build Succeeded: 06/18/2018
14:07:18 -------
Fig.3: the active pins of the main IC used in the “Analog Debug” example
program. You can view this by clicking on the “Pins” item under “Design Wide
Resources” in the left sidebar of the IDE.
94
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
If you get an error message in the
Output Window about missing binaries for the ARM GCC and MDK
toolchain, this is because the project
is set for a ‘debug’ build and the default toolchain in the build settings
is incorrect.
To fix this, go to Project → Build
Settings in the toolbar. In the Build
Settings sub-menu, the second entry
“Toolchain” should be set to “ARM
GCC 5.4-2016-q2-update” or similar
instead of the default “ARM MDK
Generic”.
Or it might be due to not having the
correct binaries for the 059 board. Just
having the 042 kit files from the previous article is not enough to successfully build this project.
siliconchip.com.au
After this, the project should build
without any errors, but you might get
two warnings about asynchronous
paths which you can safely ignore.
Unlike the PSoC 049-42XX boards,
it is not necessary to press a button
on the board before programming. If
programming is successful, the log
will show a message similar to the
one below:
Fig.4: a breakpoint (indicated in red) can
be set by either clicking to the left of the
line-number, or right-clicking the line and
selecting “Insert Breakpoint”. Breakpoints
determine when to temporarily stop code
execution during debugging.
------- Rebuild Succeeded:
06/22/2018 12:45:59 ------Programming device 'PSoC 5LP
CY8C5888LT*-LP097' with
file 'K:\ARM Development\
Cypress PSoC\Active Projects\
AnalogDebugExample\
AnalogDebug.cydsn\CortexM3\
ARM_MDK_Generic\Debug\
AnalogDebug.hex'.
Device ID Check
Erasing...
Programming of Flash Starting...
Protecting...
Verify Checksum...
Finished Programming
Device ‘PSoC 5LP CY8C5888LT*LP097’ was successfully
programmed at 06/22/2018
12:46:09.
If the chip is programmed successfully, and you have a suitable audio
amplifier connected, the opening
theme from “The Godfather” will play
each time you press SW_1. Pressing
SW_2 changes the pitch and tempo
while playing a piano scale. The music
is created using the built-in arbitrary
waveform generator (discussed later).
Interactive debugging
One of the problems with many microcontroller development systems,
including the popular Arduino environment, is that they don’t give you
an easy way to debug your program.
What do you do if you write some
code, upload it to the board, and it
doesn’t do what you expected? You
generally end up having to add lots
of print statements throughout your
code, so you can watch the serial console to find out what’s going wrong.
That can be time consuming.
Wouldn’t it be handy if you could
step through each line of your code and
check the value returned by a function
or from a calculation, while also being
able to see the value of each currently
active variable?
While this is theoretically possible
with an Arduino, it is not easy to orsiliconchip.com.au
Connection diagram for the PSoC CY8CKIT-059 board.
Source and prototyping guide: www.cypress.com/file/157971/download
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 95
Fig.5: when debugging, the current point of execution is
indicated in yellow. If you click the tab at the bottom left
called “Locals”, you should be shown the current values
of all variables that are currently ‘in scope’. You can also
set a “Watchpoint” via right-clicking the variable, which
means that the value of that variable will always be
displayed when ‘visible’.
ganise. But PSoC Creator has in-built
debugging. It does this via the 0595LP’s USB-to-serial adaptor which
contains its own 32-bit ARM processor.
It receives commands from the IDE
and communicates with the 059-5LP’s
(or 049-42XX) CPU to execute code one
line at a time. Since the IDE has access
to the source code of your program (including all the library code written by
Cypress and others), it is possible to
step through each line of code with a
press of a key.
Using the example project, we can
step through the code and see what is
happening at each point. It helps to tell
the IDE how far through the program
we want to go before debugging should
start. To do this, we set a ‘breakpoint’.
Fig.4 shows what the IDE looks like
when we set a breakpoint at the first
statement in the code, as indicated by
the red blob to the left of the “CyGlobalIntEnable” statement.
To set a breakpoint, click in the
shaded vertical area to the left of line
numbering, or right-click the line you
96
Silicon Chip
want to break at, and select “Insert
Breakpoint”. Click again on the red
circle to remove the breakpoint. Breakpoints can be set on any line.
Once you have a breakpoint set,
click on the “Debug” drop-down menu
and select “debug” or press F5. The
IDE will compile the code and program the 059-5LP. It will then begin
execution of the code and stop at the
first breakpoint it detects. The yellow
highlighting shown in Fig.5 indicates
where the program execution is currently up to.
Now when you click on the Debug
drop-down menu, you will see some
additional menu items. The new menu
items show which function keys you
can use to step through the code; for
example, F10 will execute the current statement and then step to the
next one, F11 is similar but will step
into the function itself when relevant.
Try pressing F10, then F11 while the
“DAC_Start();” statement is highlighted. This will move the debugger to inside the scope of that function which
is located in the file DAC.c.
Australia’s electronics magazine
So if you want to find out what happens within a function that’s called on
the currently highlighted line, press
F11. If you are only interested in what
the function returns, press F10.
To see the value of a variable (eg,
Button_1_Pressed), hover the mouse
cursor over that variable and a popup
window will display details of the variable and its contents. Note, however,
that the variable must be ‘in scope’,
that is, local (or ‘visible’) to the function currently being executed.
By right-clicking on the variable, a
popup window appears that allows
a “Watchpoint” to be created, which
means that the IDE will always show
the value of that variable whenever it
is in-scope.
Arbitrary Waveform
Generation (WaveDAC8)
The above example program uses
the Arbitrary Waveform Generator
(WaveDAC8) component to play music. This component has an analog output which can provide sine, square,
triangle and sawtooth waveforms. It
siliconchip.com.au
also has the facility for the user to draw
their own waveform.
You can double-click on the WaveDAC8 component to change its parameters and hear the difference; for example, you can change the waveform
shape, and that will affect the timbre of
the sound it produces. The test waveforms are shown in Fig.6.
Once you’ve wired up the circuit
as described earlier, and programmed
the chip, pressing pushbutton SW_1
plays a theme song, while pressing
SW_2 plays a musical scale, first with
the “DAC” object, then in reverse with
“DAC_1”, which are both WaveDAC8
components.
This demonstrates the use of different waveforms, but the second DAC
could also be used for multi-channel
playback.
The “Voice_Write()” function modifies the contents of a CPU register
which enables one DAC while disabling the other.
To play the music, I’ve created an
array of values which represent the
frequency of each note in the tune.
These are passed (one at a time) to
the “PlayNote()” function, which alters the clock frequency driving each
WaveDAC8 unit, to produce a different
output frequency. The values stored
approximate the frequencies of the
notes on a piano.
To create a different song, make a
new array using TheGodFather[] as a
template and following the comments
in the code. There are ways to turn audio files, like mp3s, into arrays of bytes
which can then be used with this program. Of course, you wouldn’t easily
be able to fit more than snippets into
program memory.
By duplicating the “Volume” control component (a Programmable Gain
Amplifier) and the output potentio-
Fig.7: The “Analog_Alarm” program
alters the behaviour of an LED
depending on the input voltage
from PIN_1 using the chip’s in-built
configure hardware.
meter, you can turn this project into a
stereo synthesiser. With a little extra
programming you could also control
the gain of the PGA(s) with the software to set the volume.
A second example
If you wish to learn more about the
Analog components built into the
Cypress CY8CKIT-059-5LP, here is
a second sample project. It is called
“Analog_Alarm” and is included in
the download package for this article.
Open it up in the IDE, as you did with
the previous project.
You can see the block diagram for
this program in Fig.7. It uses two 8-bit
voltage DACs, a voltage reference,
three analog comparators, an XOR
gate, a 4-input analog multiplexer, a
lookup table and three PWM units to
produce a voltage alarm.
The input voltage comes from the
wiper of a potentiometer (variable resistor) connected to input port P3[0].
Depending on the position of the potentiometer, it will drive the onboard
LED as follows:
1. For any voltage below 1V, the onboard LED is off.
2. Between 1-2V, the LED pulsates.
3. Between 2-4V, the LED flashes
at 100Hz.
4. Above 4V, the LED remains continuously lit.
These voltage ranges can easily
be changed in the code. You can replace the potentiometer with a voltage source (0-5V only), and you have
a voltage monitor facility.
More example projects
Cypress code Examples: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aarf
100 Projects in 100 Days: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aarg
CY8CKIT-059 driving a VGA monitor: siliconchip.com.au/link/aarh
Open FPGA tools: github.com/
azonenberg/openfpga
CNC wood router using a 059-5LP:
github.com/holla2040/hyatt
Cypress buyout
Fig.6: the two waveforms used for DAC (left) and DAC_1 (right) shown in Fig.1.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
Recently Cypress Semiconductors
was acquired by Infineon for approximately €9B. The acquisition seems to
be primarily for Cypress’ automotive
electronics, but their microcontrollers
like the CY8CKIT-059 shown in this
article are likely to continue being developed and sold.
SC
September 2019 97
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Dual-coloured – all in one bright LED fitting
Making sure your switch panel project is highly visible and
stands out from the others have now been made easier with
LED Autolamps’ most recent new product, the SO58RGM.
This lamp typically comes standard with a dual-colored red
and green LEDs within a single compact unit, owing to its origins from LED Autolamps’ equivalent automotive-styled range.
The SO58RGM includes two super-bright LEDs that are
housed inside a specially designed and enhanced lens. This
combination creates a bright, wide viewing angle of light instantly alerting operators. The standout features for this lamp is
its separately wired circuits for each color as well, independent
earthing wires making them ideal for 2-way rotary switches.
The SO58RGM utilizes a surface-mounted fitting method,
most commonly used in the automotive industry but unique to
panel switch lights. These lamps will offer flexibility and ease
of installation not seen within this industry. Installation merely
requires fixing the bracket to the fitting surface and then clipping the lens in place, cleverly hiding the screws and creating
a tidy, professional finish.
Harsh operational environments demand a stand out performer and rest assured the SO58RGM is up to the task. Polycarbonate
plastics have been used for the lens, ideal for strength, durability
and UV resistance, as well as an ABS base to finish the build.
They also
have been vibration tested
and are certified to rigorous IP67
standards for
dust and water ingress.
LED Autolamps’ renowned quality manufacturing will ensure an extended operational life, and with 30,000 hours LED lifespan these
lamps will give you years of trouble-free service. They’re ideal for internal or external control panels, vehicle dashboards,
machinery; or any indicator, signal and warning applications.
They are supplied in a single poly bag and offer a 3-year
peace-of-mind warranty.
Available to order diContact:
rectly from LED AutolLED Autolamps
amps, designers and
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manufacturers of highTel: (03) 9466 7075
quality LEDs for autoWeb: www.ledautolamps.com
motive lighting.
Wagner Electronics’ new Accento tube Amplifier has Bluetooth!
In what might seem to some to be a strange mix of old
and new technologies, the new Accento-Dynamica hybrid
amplifier from Wagner Electronics has a pair of 6F2 valves,
attractively illuminated by blue LEDs, along with (on top of
the chassis) a whip antenna to receive Bluetooth signals. The
preamplifier is solid state.
The Accento is a German-designed hifi mini-amp with a
high quality sound for a low price that is ideal for running
modern, good quality, compact speakers.
With compact dimensions and of course great sound, the
unit has two RCA inputs for tuner, CD or media player. The
Bluetooth V4.2 signal reception (with external antenna) as
well as the built-in USB audio player (supports MP3, WAV,
APE, FLAC with play/pause/fast forward/rewind) for modern connectivity and playback.
It features a 12W+12W output (into four ohms) with less
than 0.1% THD <at> 12W and a 20Hz-20kHz frequency re-
sponse (±2dB). The
230V power supply
is not switch-mode
like most designs
these days but
linear.
The rear panel sports connectors for
speakers, headphones and even a
subwoofer output while the top panel (front)
has USB input (with pushbutton track selection), level (volume) control and inContact:
put selector switch.
Wagner Electronics
Size is 235 x 155 x
84-90 Parramatta Rd, Summer Hill 2130
110mm. It is priced
Tel: [Sydney] (02) 9797 9866
at $259 (inc GST) –
Web: www.wagneronline.com.au
Cat no ADHA24BT.
Get your hands on user-programmable hearing aids – without setting foot inside a clinic!
You’re not likely to wear your hearing aids much
if you’re unhappy with the programming. But it can
take frustrating repeat trips to the audiologist to get
things sounding just right.
So Blamey Saunders puts the power in your hands.
Blamey Saunders hearing aids work with an app
called IHearYou® that lets you control your settings
from your smartphone, tablet or Windows computer. It’s easy.
And there’s no need to visit a clinic for the initial
set up. Have your hearing aids home delivered and
ready to go, preset based on your results from their
98
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
free online hearing test.
Find out if Blamey Saunders’ user-programmable hearing aids will
work for you—take the free online
test at blameysaunders.com.au/spt
It’s quick and clinically validated.
Contact:
BlameySaunders
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Tel: 1300 443 279
Web: www.blameysaunders.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip--mouser-widest-selection-205x275.pdf
1
30/7/2019
3:55 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 99
Do you ride a pushbike in the dark? You need our new
ULTRABRITE LED
PUSHBIKE LIGHT
This tiny (22 x 12mm) circuit board is a high-efficiency LED
driver that delivers a constant 1A or 2.2A. You can use it with a
12V white LED array to make a (very!) bright bicycle light, a torch
or another light source. It can be powered from a lithium-ion or LiPo battery
pack but there are other options. It also has brightness control and a flashing
function. It’s a very compact and modern design, for advanced constructors.
Design by Daniel Doyle Words by Nicholas Vinen
T
here are plenty of bicycle lights and LED torches on or wherever you need a bright light but don’t have ready
the market, but there are certain advantages to build- access to mains power. The driver board is tiny, so it can
be tucked away just about anywhere. Add a LED and a bating your own.
For a start, you get to choose the battery, so you could use tery, and away you go.
It has a flashing mode and two reduced brightness options
a high-capacity rechargeable lithium-ion or LiPo battery that
would last for many hours of use. These are not terribly ex- that you can use for longer battery life. You can also build
a higher-power version of the circuit to suit more powerpensive, and can last for many years if treated well.
ful LEDs.
You also get to choose the
SWITCH S1
INDUCTOR L1
It’s a generally useful deLED(s), so you can use a real+
vice. It’s also a good way to
ly efficient one for maximum +
learn about switchmode powbattery life and brightness.
iL
PATH 1
er supplies and LED driving.
And you can also tailor
And while it’s designed to
the optics to suit your needs. VIN
C1 VOUT
LOAD
D1
PATH 2
drive LEDs, it isn’t necessarYou can build it with a tight,
ily limited to only doing that.
bright beam or a wider beam
With a few small changes, this
to improve your visibility to
board can be used as a conobjects not directly in front
of you.
Fig.1: the general configuration of a step-down switching stant current source for a vaYou don’t necessarily have DC/DC converter, also known as a ‘buck’ converter. When S1 riety of applications.
to use this driver board for a is on, current flows through it and inductor L1 to the load,
bike light or torch. It could charging up both capacitor C1 and L1’s magnetic field. When S1 Operating principle
This LED driver is a “buck”
be used for caravan lighting, switches off, the magnetic field starts to collapse, which forces
current to continue to flow. This must come from ground, via
step-down DC/DC converter
to light the bed of a ute or the
D1, which along with the charge in C1, causes the load voltage
with current regulation. It efcargo area of a van, in a shed, to drop slowly until S1 switches on again.
100
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ficiently reduces the 15-21V battery supply voltage down
to around 12V, as required by the LED array.
The LED voltage is not regulated directly; rather, the
circuit attempts to maintain 1A through the LED array, at
whatever voltage is required, from virtually nothing up to
the full input voltage.
Fig.1 shows the basic configuration of a buck regulator.
Switch S1 is electronically toggled on and off rapidly to
control the current through inductor L1. When S1 is on, the
current flowing through L1 increases at a rate determined
by its inductance and the voltage across it.
Some of this current may flow through the load while the
rest charges up capacitor C1. L1’s magnetic field also charges
up as the current flows.
When S1 switches off, the magnetic field starts to collapse
and this forces current to continue to flow into the load and
C1, although at a reducing rate.
Since current can no longer flow through S1, it must instead come from circuit ground and through diode D1, effectively flowing in a loop through D1, L1 and C1/the load,
back to ground.
It is the energy stored in the magnetic field which makes
this an efficient circuit, as the voltage drop across L1 is not
dissipated as heat; most of that energy is stored while S1 is
switched on, and recovered when it switches off.
By controlling the duty cycle of S1, we can control the
current through L1 and thus the average voltage across C1.
Circuit description
Fig.2 shows the LED driver circuit, including the internal
details of the LM3409MY controller. In this case, the switch
shown in Fig.1 is actually a Mosfet (Q1).
You should be able to see all the other components from
Fig.1 in this circuit, with the addition of a 0.22Ω currentsense resistor between the supply bypass capacitors and
the source of Q1.
Q1 is a P-channel Mosfet which means that the controller IC can switch it on hard, by pulling its gate down to 0V,
without needing a boosted gate supply rail. That means if
the battery is almost fully discharged, the highest possible
LED brightness can still be maintained, as there will be a
minimal voltage drop in the circuit (around 0.25V, mostly
Features & specifications
• Can power a 12V LED array from a 5S
(18.5V) lithium-ion/LiPo battery
• Operates from 5-25V (minimum LED operating voltage + 2V)
• Delivers 1A (12W for 12V LED) or 2.2A
(26W for 12V LED)
• Can be used with a wide variety of highbrightness LEDs including 6V and 12V
(nominal) types
• Three brightness settings plus flashing
mode with pushbutton on/off and mode
control
• Low quiescent current when off
(around 1mA)
• Under-voltage lockout
• Overheating protection
• High efficiency; typically more than 90%
due to the current sense resistor).
IC1 is powered from pin 10 (VIN ) and it has an internal
regulator (VCCREG.) producing a voltage at pin 9, labelled
VCC. This is a ‘negative’ regulator which produces a voltage
rail that is relative to VIN, but about 6V lower. The external
1µF capacitor filters this rail.
Internally, VCC is fed to the Mosfet gate driver, and this
provides the voltage that the Mosfet gate is pulled down
to (via pin 6) to switch it on. This gives the Mosfet a gatesource voltage of -6V, more than enough for Q1 to be fully
in conduction. To switch it off, pin 6 is pulled up to VIN, so
the gate-source voltage is reduced to 0V.
The benefit of this scheme is that it allows VIN to be higher than it otherwise could. A typical Mosfet has a maximum
gate-source voltage rating of ±20V. If the Mosfet gate were
This photo of a “naked”
bike light really doesn’t
do the LED justice! It
is so bright that you
risk temporary vision
impairment from looking
into it – trust us, that is
from experience! You can
also see just how small the
controller board is from
this pic. The LM3904 on
this board may get quite
warm at higher currents,
especially if in close
proximity to the LED and/
or if in a small housing. In
this case, a small heatsink
is suggested. The battery,
by the way, is a 5-cell,
18.5V, 5000mAh high
discharge Li-Po by Turnigy,
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 101
REG1
LM3480IM3-5.0
IC1
OUT
IN
GND
100nF
15.8k
4 COFF
GND
GND
1
2
4
1
GP2
GP0
IC2
PIC
PIC10
1 0 F202
-E/OT
VSS
CON3
1
2
2
OFF TIMER
GP1
GP3
LM3409MY
3
+
VCC
UVLO
Finish
3
R CSP
8
R CSN
7
PGATE
6G
35V
TANT.
0.22
S
CONTROL
LOGIC
EN
6
Q1
Si4447DY
IADJ
+
2
PAD
5
TANTALUM
CAPACITORS
1
3 0
5 6
V
GND
WHITE
LED
+ ARRAY
–
THERMAL PAD
UNDERNEATH
CONNECTS TO GND
LM3840IM3
15MQ040
SC
20 1 9
10W+ LED DRIVER & FLASHER
3
K
A
1
Si4447DY
LM3409MY
10
2
1
DD
6
S
5
35V
TANT.
+
–
2
A
5R
GND
10 F
D1
15MQ040
1.24V
1.24V
1
L1 33 H
DR74-330-R
K
5 A
49.9k
1 UVLO
CON2
D
22 A
S1
On/Off/Flash/
16.5k
Brightness
10 F
1 F
Start
560pF
5
VDD
VCC
TS1
5
TC6502 TOVER
P095VCT
VCC
VCC
REG.
5V
4
9
VIN
100nF
–
3
HYST
10
+
12-30V
DC IN
CON1
+
S
S
G
PIC10F202/OT
65
DD
1 2
3
TC6502VCT
5
4
4
1 2
3
Fig.2: this circuit diagram also shows the internals of the LM3409 IC. It’s a constant off-time switchmode current regulator
driving a P-channel Mosfet. The internal negative regulator (Vcc REG.) takes the supply between pins 10 (VIN) and 5 (GND)
and produces a third rail at pin 9 (Vcc) which is around 6V below VIN. This determines the low (on) voltage for the Mosfet
gate, allowing a supply voltage higher than its gate-source rating. Note the 1µF filter capacitor between VIN and Vcc.
The LM3409 IC does get quite warm during operation – heatsinking may be required especially in a small housing.
pulled to 0V to switch it on, that would mean that VIN could
not exceed 20V. Our recommended 5-cell Lithium-ion battery has a fully charged voltage of 21V, and the circuit can
operate to at least 30V thanks to this internal regulator.
When S1 is on, the current flowing through it and inductor L1 is sensed via the voltage developed across the 0.22Ω
resistor. Both ends of this resistor are connected to a differential amplifier within IC1.
The regulated current is determined by the value of the
current sense resistor, and the value connected from the IADJ
pin (pin 2) to ground, if any.
In this application, no such resistor is fitted. If a resistor
is fitted there, it changes the 1.24V reference voltage which
controls the voltage divider formed by the internal resistors
labelled “R” (at pin 8) and “5R”.
With no external resistor, 1.24V appears across the “5R”
resistor, meaning that 0.248V (1.24V ÷ 5) appears across
the upper “R” resistor. Therefore, a similar voltage must be
Scope1: the yellow trace (bottom) is the PWM control signal
from pin 3 of IC2 to pin 3 (EN) of IC1, while the green trace
above is Q1’s gate. The blue trace above that is at Q1’s
drain while the mauve trace at top is the voltage across the
LED array. The time-base for this grab is fast, at 2µs/div,
so you can see the switch-mode operation at 568kHz, with
around 100mV of ripple appearing across the LED.
Scope2: now we’ve switched the LED to medium brightness
and slowed the time-base to 1ms/div, while keeping the
same traces and voltage scaling as in Scope1. You can see
that the duty cycle is around 80% and the frequency is
200Hz. When the PWM control signal goes low, the LED
drive is cut and the LED filter capacitor discharges until
the switchmode driver is re-enabled.
102
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
developed across the external sense resistor for the current
amplifier’s output to change polarity. This sets the peak current to 1.13A (0.248V ÷ 0.22Ω), resulting in an average LED
current close to 1A.
IC1 uses a ‘controlled off-time’ scheme for regulation. With
standard PWM, the pulses applied to the gate of Q1 would
be at a fixed frequency but with a varying duty cycle. With
the controlled off-time scheme, Q1 is switched off for the
same time after each pulse; the on-time varies to control the
duty cycle. This results in a variable switching frequency.
The advantage of this scheme is that it’s easier to stabilise
the feedback loop to prevent sub-harmonic oscillation. This
avoids the need for external loop compensation components.
The combination of the 15.8kΩ resistor from the output to
pin 4, and the 560pF capacitor from pin 4 to ground, sets
the fixed off-time to be very close to 1µs. So with a 50%
duty cycle, the switching frequency will be around 500kHz.
Diode D1 is a 1.5A schottky diode with an especially low
forward voltage of 0.43V at 1.5A, for maximal efficiency.
The resistive divider at pin 1 (UVLO) sets the input supply
under-voltage lockout threshold to 5V (1.24V x [1 + 49.9kΩ
÷ 16.5kΩ]). The internal switched 22µA current source adds
363mV (16.5kΩ x 22µA) of hysteresis, so that the switch-off
threshold is 5.363V.
This was chosen to shut down the circuit before the external control circuitry no longer has enough voltage to run,
and to allow lower-voltage batteries and LEDs to be used.
It is expected that your battery will have built-in over-discharge protection and so will cease supplying current before it is damaged.
If not, you would have to change these divider values to
protect your battery. For example, a 5S Li-ion or LiPo battery should not normally be discharged below 3V per cell
or 15V total. So you could change the 49.9kΩ resistor to
183kΩ (16.5kΩ x [15V ÷ 1.24V - 1]) (180kΩ would do) and
the LED drive will automatically shut off when your battery drops below 15V.
Control circuitry
Pin 3 (EN, enable) of IC1 is driven from the GP1 digital output (pin 3) of 6-pin microcontroller IC2. This pin is
Scope3: this scope grab was taken under the same
conditions as Scope2, but now the driver is in low
brightness mode, with the PWM duty cycle reduced to
around 40%.
siliconchip.com.au
driven high to light the LED or low to shut it off. It can be
modulated (eg, using PWM) to provide dimming.
Microcontroller IC2 provides seven different modes: light
off, low, medium or high brightness (continuous) or low,
medium or high brightness (flashing).
These are all achieved by pulse-width modulating or
switching the GP1 output state.
Onboard temperature sensor TS1 has a digital output at
pin 5 (TOVER) which feeds digital input GP2 (pin 4) on IC2.
This pin is driven high if the board gets too hot (over 95°C)
and IC2 responds by slowly reducing the LED brightness.
Its pin 3 hysteresis (HYST) input is connected to Vcc to
provide 10°C of hysteresis, so when the sensor temperature
drops below 85°, pin 5 goes low again, and the LED brightness slowly ramps back up. This prevents damage to the
whole unit if operated for long periods at high brightness
in hot weather.
If the sensor is at 95°C, the LED array is likely to be well
above 100°C, as there will be some distance between them,
and no direct path for heat conduction.
The various modes are selected using external momentary pushbutton S1, which connects between GND and the
GP0 digital input (pin 1) of IC2. IC2 has an internal pullup current to keep this pin high when the button is not
pressed. It detects when the button is pressed as that pin is
then pulled low.
IC2 and TS1 are powered from a 5V rail developed by
low power regulator REG1. This regulator can withstand
input voltages up to 30V (it is the limiting factor in this design), can deliver up to 100mA and has a quiescent current
of around 1.9mA.
As it is not a micropower regulator, an external power
switch is recommended to avoid discharging the battery
when the light is not in use.
Scope grabs
Scope1-Scope4 below show the voltages at four points
in the circuit during different phases of operation. See the
captions for an explanation of which each trace represents.
Scope1 is a close-up of the switching waveforms, demonstrating how the LED current is regulated. Note how the
Scope4: we’ve now switched the driver into flashing mode
and slowed the time-base down again, to 100ms/div, so that
you can see the full effect. The flashing frequency is around
4Hz, and the duty cycle is 50%. Other flashing modes
involve switching between lower LED brightness (PWMcontrolled) and full brightness.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 103
Increasing its current delivery
Fig.3: because the PCB is so tiny
(same-size diagrams at left!) we have
also shown the top and bottom at
three times the actual size for clarity.
Actual
size
1 6 . 5 k
TS1
D1
IC1
100nF
CON1
To battery
3x actual size
L1 33 H
DR74-330-R
While the ~1A current delivery of
this design can give you a really bright
light (around 2100 lumens), it is capable of delivering more than twice
that with a few minor changes, for a
CON2
To LED(s)
theoretical output of around 5000 lumens, with the right LED(s)!
Replacing the 0.22Ω 2/3W resistor
with a same-size 0.1Ω 2/3W resistor will set the average
current to around 2.2A. You also need to make the following two substitutions.
Replace D1 with a 3A schottky diode in the same size
package, eg, Comchip CDBA340L-G, Diodes Inc B340LA13-F, On Semi NRVBA340T3G or Micro Commercial SL34A.
Replace inductor L1 with Panasonic ETQ-P5M470YFM,
with a current rating 2.9A and a saturation current of 4.1A,
in a package about the same size as the specified DR74330-R inductor.
Two other possible inductor options which are slightly
larger are the Murata DD1217AS-H-330M=P3 and Bourns
SRN8040TA-330M, both 8x8mm. They will be a tight fit on
the existing footprint, but it should be possible to solder
them to the board without modifications. Both have slightly lower current ratings than the Panasonic part though;
adequate, but barely so.
Construction
Fig.3 shows both sides of the assembled board at actual
size; it’s tiny! The double-sided board is coded 16109191
and measures just 22 x 12mm.
We built our prototype by hand with a regular soldering
iron (using a standard chisel tip), so it isn’t that difficult,
IC2
REG1
Q1
Si4447DY
0.22
49.9k
CON3
15.8k
gate pulses in green all have the same
positive width (off-time) while the ontime varies. This is due to switchmode
controller IC1 varying the on-time in
an attempt to keep the current through
the LED at the target level.
Scope2 shows how the 200Hz PWM
brightness control from IC2 causes the
LED driver output to switch on and off
rapidly, reducing both the light output
and power consumption.
Scope3 shows the same effect but
on a lower brightness setting, with a
duty cycle of around 40%.
Scope4 shows the operation of the
unit in flashing mode (4Hz), at a much
longer time scale, corresponding to a
whole second of operation.
1 F
Fig.4: 3x
diagrams of
the top and
bottom of
CON2
To LED(s)
the PCB.
560pF
Besides making
sure all the
CON3
solder joints
are good, the
10 F
10 F
main thing to
35V
35V
TANT.
check is that the pin 1
TANT.
dots of IC1, IC2 and Q1
CON1
are in the right
To battery
orientations, along with
the positive stripes on the
two 10µF tantalum capacitors.
The wiring is shown on both sides as you can solder in
the wires from either side.
100nF
but it definitely requires some skill and patience. IC1 has
closely spaced leads (0.5mm apart) while the other parts
are not quite so tricky, but are still quite small so you may
need to work under magnification.
The board was designed to be so small to leave as much
room as possible to fit the battery in your light housing.
Fig.4(a) shows where the parts go on the top of the board,
and it’s best to start assembly with this side, specifically,
by soldering IC1 in place. As well as having closely spaced
leads, this part has a thermal pad on the underside. Ideally, it
should be reflow soldered, eg, using a hot air rework station.
If you have such a station, spread a thin smear of solder
paste on all the pads, place the IC in the correct position
(ensuring its pin 1 goes towards the nearest corner of the
board), then gently heat it with hot air until all the solder
reflows. Don’t let the hot air dwell too long on one area or
you risk burning the PCB or damaging the chip.
The solder under the IC, on the large central pad, is likely
to be the last to reflow. But you need to make sure it does,
or else you could have hidden short circuits under the chip.
If you don’t have a reflow oven or hot air rework station,
the PCB pad has been extended slightly past the body of
IC1, so that you can still heat the pad directly to solder
that thermal pad.
The two sides of the completed
PCB are shown here rather
significantly oversize, (about
twice life size) just so you
can see what goes where!
The 560pF capacitor, 15.9kΩ
Ω
resistor, 33µH inductor and
the two tantalum capacitors
mount on the underside (right)
– note the stripes denoting the
positive end of the capacitors.
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You will need a fine-tipped soldering iron to do it this
way, though
To hand-solder this chip, add a small amount of solder
paste to the middle of the big pad in the middle of its footprint. If you don’t have solder paste, spread a thin smear
of flux paste over the whole central pad instead. Then locate the pin 1 dot or divot on the IC (using a magnifier) and
then rotate it so that it’s near the closest corner of the board.
Rotate the whole lot so the that the chip leads are on the
left and right sides, then add a tiny bit of solder onto one of
the chip’s pads (eg, at the upper-right corner if you’re righthanded). Heat this solder and gently slide the chip into place.
Having removed the heat, check to see whether its pins
are properly aligned with the pads on both sides. If not, heat
that solder joint and very carefully nudge the IC slightly
in the right direction.
We got ours very close on our first attempt (probably
close enough) but decided to nudge it a few more times
to get the alignment perfect. When you’re happy, add flux
paste to both sides, then add solder to the diagonally opposite pin before drag-soldering the rest of the pins on that
side of the chip.
Return to the other side and solder all the remaining
pins, including the one you started with. Bridges are hard
to avoid; if you get some, add more flux paste, then use
solder wick to suck the excess solder off the pins. When
you’re finished, check them carefully under magnification.
You should have nice looking fillets on all pins, down to
the pads on the PCB.
Now add a little extra flux paste to the exposed part of
the central pad and feed some solder onto it. Hold the heat
on there for a few seconds. If you have solder paste under
the chip, it should reflow now. Otherwise, the flux paste
under the chip should help suck some solder underneath
it (fingers crossed).
If you have a hot air rework station, you can still solder
the chip by hand, then re-heat it to reflow solder paste underneath the IC. That’s what we did, but again, be very careful to ensure that all the solder paste does melt or you will
have trouble later. Also, try not to let the airstream blow
the chip off its pads! It helps to keep the airflow rate low.
Remaining SMDs
With the tricky part out of the way, solder IC2 next. Ideally, it should be pre-programmed (eg, purchased from our
online shop), although it is possible to program it later. Find
its small pin 1 dot and rotate it so that it is facing towards
Q1’s mounting position. Then use a similar technique as
for IC1 to solder it in place. It should be somewhat easier due to having fewer, larger, more widely spaced pins.
Next, fit TS1 and REG1, both of which can only go in one
orientation due to the differing number of pins on each side.
Follow with Q1, which has even more widely spaced
pins which can possibly be soldered individually. Ensure
its pin 1 dot/divot and chamfered edge go towards the bottom of the board as shown in Fig.3(a).
The PCB is designed to accept a Mosfet in the SOT-669
package, which has a single large tab in place of pins 5-8,
so there is one large pad for these pins. There is no need to
worry therefore if you bridge them; in fact, we suggest you
add enough solder on that side of the device to form one,
large solder joint, as we did on our prototype.
There’s also no need to worry about bridges between pins
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Ultrabrite LED Driver
1 double-sided PCB, code 16109191, 22 x 12mm
1 5S Li-ion/LiPo battery or similar, 1Ah+
1 5S-capable Li-ion/LiPo battery charger
1 2-pin connector to suit battery
1 chassis-mount waterproof momentary pushbutton switch
(S1) [eg, Altronics S0960/S0961 or Jaycar SP0756]
1 12V LED array, eg, Cree XHP70.2 P4 bin (2100 lumens at
1A, 4760 lumens at 2.2A)
1 heatsink to suit LED
1 lens to suit LED (optional)
1 DR74-330-R 33µH 1.4A SMD inductor, 7.2 x 7.2mm (L1)
1 waterproof enclosure, large enough for battery and LED(s)
short lengths of medium-duty hookup wire or figure-8
Connector options for battery charging
1 waterproof 4-pin chassis-mount socket [Jaycar PS1009+
PS1005 (10A) or Altronics P9444+P9420 (5A)] or
1 waterproof 6-pin chassis-mount socket [Jaycar
PS1003+PS1005 (10A) or Altronics P9446+P9420 (5A)]
1 4-pin line plug [Jaycar PP1006 (10A), Altronics P9474 (5A)] or
1 6-pin line plug [Jaycar PP1000 (10A), Altronics P9476 (5A)]
Semiconductors
1 LM3409MY switchmode LED controller, MSOP-10 (IC1)
1 PIC10F202-E/OT 8-bit microcontroller programmed with
1610919A.HEX, SOT-23-6 (IC2)
1 TC6502P095VCT temperature switch, SOT-23-5 (TS1)
1 LM3480IM3-5.0 high-voltage 5V linear regulator, SOT-23
(REG1)
1 Si4447DY 40V 4.5A P-channel Mosfet, SOIC-8 (Q1)
1 15MQ040 40V 1.5A schottky diode, DO-214AC (D1)
Capacitors
2 10µF 35V SMD tantalum capacitors, low-ESR, D case
[eg, Kemet T495D106K035ATE120]
1 1µF 50V X7R SMD ceramic, size 3216/1206
2 100nF 50V X7R SMD ceramics, size 1608/0603
1 560pF 50V X7R SMD ceramic, size 1608/0603
Resistors
(all 1% SMD 1/10W, size 1608/0603 unless otherwise stated)
1 49.9k
1 16.5k
1 15.8k
1 0.22 1% 2/3W, size 3216/1206 [eg, Susumu KRL1632EC-R220-F-T1]
1-3 as these all connect to the same point, but you don’t
want to bridge pins 3 & 4 as pin 4 is the gate. You can still
use flux paste and solder wick to clean up a bridge between
these pins, should it occur.
You can now fit diode D1, with its cathode stripe orientated as shown, followed by the three resistors and three
capacitors. Make sure you use the correct values for the
two smaller resistors.
Components on the other side
Now flip the board over. There are just five components
to mount on this side of the board, as shown in Fig.3(b).
Unfortunately, the board will not sit flat at this stage, so
you should find some small plastic shims to place strategically under it so that it won’t wobble around as you are
soldering these final components.
Start with the two smaller components, making sure that
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 105
The Cree XHP70 is shown at left
close to life size, with a larger
scale front and back image at right.
It must be used with a heatsink;
otherwise it would destroy itself.
The star-shaped Meodex at bottom right not
only provides some heatsinking but is also a
convenient means of connection.
you fit the capacitor in the position closer to the board edge.
You can then solder the two larger capacitors in place. It
helps to have fine tweezers when doing this, as they are
quite close together. As usual, make sure the striped ends
are orientated correctly.
That just leaves the inductor. Spread some flux paste on
its pads, then use the usual technique to tack it into place
before soldering the opposite lead. Put some heat and solder into the joints to make sure the fillets look good on
both sides.
Preparing the LED
You may be able to buy a suitable LED pre-assembled and
ready to wire up, but the recommended Cree XHP70 LED
generally comes as a bare ‘chip on board’ type LED, which
needs to be soldered to a suitable PCB both for electrical
connections and to get heat out of it. This is then generally attached to a piece of metal which acts as a heatsink
to keep the LED temperature under control.
It’s a good idea to then mount the PCB on the back of this
heatsink (with a suitable layer of electrical insulation in
between!) so that the PCB can sense the heatsink temperature and reduce the LED brightness if it’s getting too hot.
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. First, you need to
solder the LED to this PCB, which is often in a ‘star’ shape.
Note that the XHP70 can be run at 6V or 12V, depending on
the configuration of the PCB, so make sure you get a suitable
PCB that’s designed to run it at 12V. Otherwise, the LED
will require twice as much current for the same brightness.
You can sometimes get the LEDs pre-soldered to the star
boards, but we couldn’t find one locally, so we ordered the
LED and board separately from Cutter Electronics in Victoria (www.cutter.com.au).
We then attached the LED to the board. First, we checked
the T-shaped marking on the underneath to identify the
anodes and cathodes; the bar across the ‘top’ of the T indicates the cathode. This goes towards the side of the star
PCB with the negative (-) pads on it.
We then covered all the LED pads (two small rectangles
plug a larger Z-shaped pad) with a thin smear of solder
paste mixed with some flux paste, placed the LED on top
and gently applied heat from a hot air rework station from
underneath the board. We did it this way to avoid overheating and damaging the LED lens. Make sure the small pads
on the underside of the LED line up with the two small
rectangles on the star board.
We managed to heat the star PCB from underneath by
clamping it with a hemostat (self-closing tweezers) and then
clamping that in a vice, giving us access to the underside of
the board without having to hold it. You definitely don’t want
to hold an aluminium PCB while heating it to over 200°C!
We had to gently nudge the LED using a metal object when
the solder reflowed to get it properly centred on its pads. In
theory, it should pull itself in due to solder surface tension,
but ours got ‘hung up’ on something and needed some help.
Wiring & testing
The next step is to solder wires to the board for the control pushbutton (S1), battery power and the LED(s). As the
board is so small, the wire holes are too, so you aren’t going to be able to solder heavy leads to it. You’ll be keeping
the wires fairly short anyway, so medium-duty hookup
wire is adequate.
You will probably need to cut away some of the wire
strands at the exposed end, so that you can twist the remaining strands together to fit through the holes in the PCB
before soldering them. The current will quickly spread out
through the other strands in the wire, so this should not
cause any problems. But make sure you don’t leave any
loose strands that can short to anything else!
Now solder the two LED wires from the board to the + and
– terminals on the LED star, then use screws and thermal
paste to attach it to a heatsink. Solder the momentary pushbutton to the end of its wires; its polarity doesn’t matter.
Before powering it up, carefully inspect both sides of the
board, looking for short circuits between any of the wire
solder joints and nearby components, between components
or component pins and also to ensure that all pins have
good fillets, touching both the pin and the pad.
Magnification and good lighting are critical to successfully inspecting a board populated with tiny SMD components. It’s also a good idea to clean it thoroughly beforehand,
using a specialised flux solvent or alcohol (isopropyl, pure
ethanol or methylated spirits). Otherwise, flux residue can
get in the way of a proper inspection.
Once you’re satisfied that it has been assembled correctly, its time to power it up.
Having trouble holding the LED in place while
you solder it? Here’s how we did it: a pair of
tweezers held tight in a bench vice, with the
LED held firmly at the opposite end! A wooden
clothes peg (NOT plastic!) also works well!
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If you have a suitable DC voltage source such as a 1524V 1A DC plugpack or bench supply, you can now test
the unit. Wire up the supply leads and use some electrical
tape to make sure they can’t short together, then switch on
power. At first, nothing should happen. If your supply has
a current meter, you should get a reading of no more than
a few milliamps.
If the current reading is significantly more than that,
switch off and carefully examine your board and wiring
for faults.
Now press the pushbutton, and the LED should come on.
Depending on the supply voltage, you should see around
500mA being drawn from the supply; slightly less if its
output voltage is significantly above 15V. Brief presses of
the button again should change the brightness — cycling
between medium, low and off.
Holding it down for a few seconds should switch the LED
on at full brightness. If you continue to hold it, the LED
should start it flashing. Once it’s flashing, brief presses of
the button will change the flashing mode; hold it down for
several more seconds to switch the LED off.
If it doesn’t work, most likely you have a soldering problem, or one of the components is in the wrong location or
was fitted with the wrong orientation. Carefully inspect
the board for problems.
If you don’t find any, try adding flux paste to all the small
IC leads and re-flow them all, either with a soldering iron
that has a clean tip or (even better) a gentle application of
hot air. Re-test to see if that fixed it.
Once you’re sure it’s working, switch off the power, disconnect the test supply and solder the battery connector
onto the end of the supply wires. Make sure you get the
polarity right (very important!) and use heatshrink tubing
to insulate the solder joints. There are several common
types of lithium-ion battery connector so you will need
to obtain one that matches your battery (usually from the
same source).
We’ve seen connectors with red/black wire colour coding that’s actually the opposite of the supply polarity once
it’s plugged into the battery. So check yours, and if this is
the case, use red and black heatshrink tubing to change the
wire colours to avoid mistakes.
Placing inside your bike light
At the outset, we designed this project “tiny”, so it could
fit inside a bike light. However, because every bike light is
different, we can’t offer much guidance here.
It may be that you have an old dynamo-type bike light
set gathering dust in a cupboard; these have been largely
superseded by modern lamps which also save your legs
somewhat when pedalling up a hill!
But most of these older-style lights had a fair bit of room
inside the light itself (because there was no battery). One of
these could be worth experimenting with. The battery will
need to be mounted in its own case external to the light –
though this could be beneficial when it comes to charging.
We should warn you though that many bike lights (especially plastic ones!) may not like the heat of the ultrabright
LED, so you may need to come up with some arrangement
which ensures your bike light doesn’t melt.
Putting it in a case
However, if you need to mount the project in a new case,
siliconchip.com.au
Old-style tyre-driven dynamo bike lights (remember them ...
puff, puff!) have been largely superseded but if you can find
one, it should be possible to mount the LED and control board
inside the headlight. Just beware of the heat generated by the
LED, although it may not be much different to the heat of a
recent “halogen” incandescent bulb which ran very hot.
the following points might help you.
The case should ideally be a waterproof one if you’re going to be using it on a bicycle, or anywhere external where
it could be in the weather. You will probably have to install a waterproof transparent window so that the LED itself can be mounted inside the box. It can be made from
clear plastic and sealed with silicone sealant.
You should also seal around the pushbutton switch to
ensure water cannot enter that way. The battery and board
should be securely anchored inside the box so that they
can’t put any strain on the wires.
That just leaves the question of how you charge the battery. You could open the box up and remove the battery to
charge it each time it runs low (or just swap it for a fresh
one), but that’s hardly convenient. To charge the battery
without removing it, you will need to fit a waterproof socket to the case and make up a cable with a matching plug to
connect to a suitable lithium-ion battery charger.
If you do this, it’s vital to choose a connector where you
can’t accidentally short the pins. That could melt the connector or even damage the battery.
Ideally, multi-cell (series) lithium-ion/LiPo battery packs
should be balance charged. In the case of a 5S battery, that
requires at least six contacts, two of which will carry the
full charging current. But you can get away with the occasional balance charge, so you could compromise by taking the battery out from time to time, and simply fitting a
two-pin connector for day-to-day recharges (although some
connectors are not available with fewer than four pins).
Another option is to build our March 2016 Battery Balancer (www.siliconchip.com.au/Article/9852) and mount
it inside the case, permanently attached to the battery’s
balance connector. That way, it will automatically be balanced each time you charge it. It is a relatively small board,
so you should not have trouble fitting it, and it draws little
current when not active (around 25µA).
We suggest that you use a four-pin chassis-mount socket
for regular charging, with the pins wired in pairs for extra
current handling, or a six-pin socket for balance charging.
Suitable connectors are available from both Jaycar and Altronics; see the parts list for details.
Don’t forget to insert the waterproof gasket (if supplied)
SC
when putting the lid on your box.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 107
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
High-frequency adjustable LED strobe
I have a friend working in the nanotechnology field and he wanted to
be able to see the movement of microscopic particles, which requires pulses of light in the microsecond range.
This is much shorter than conventional strobes but I thought it would
be achievable with LEDs. I designed
this circuit to drive those LEDs.
The circuit includes both a freerunning oscillator with adjustable frequency, which pulses the LED(s) like
a conventional strobe, and also a section which produces pulses of light in
response to a triggering voltage, with
an adjustable delay and also an adjustable pulse width.
All seven internal stages of a ULN2003A Darlington IC are used to
drive the white LED(s). This is capable
of sinking up to 2.5A in total, which
with a 12V supply, equates to a total
LED power of around 25W. This could
be even higher if a higher LED supply
108
Silicon Chip
voltage is used with an appropriate array (up to a maximum of 50V).
You need to select a suitable resistor value (R1), taking into account
the power rating of your LED and the
~10.5V across the LED and resistor
when the Darlington array is switched
on. That figure is assuming a well-regulated 12V supply is used.
The free running trigger signal is
generated by NAND gate IC1a. One input is grounded by a 10kW resistor but
it can be connected to 12V by switch
S3 to enable the oscillator.
The charge and discharge paths are
isolated by small signal diodes so that
the timing of the negative output pulse
is controlled by a 4.7kW fixed resistor,
while the duty cycle is controlled by
the second 4.7kW resistor and series
100kW potentiometer VR1. This allows
you to adjust the duty cycle.
The repetition rate is determined
by the setting of VR1 and the position
Australia’s electronics magazine
of switch S1, which selects between
five different timing capacitor values.
These give pulse adjustment ranges
of 1-20µs (330pF), 10-200µs (3.3nF),
100µs-2ms (33nF), 1-20ms (330nF)
and 10-200ms (3.3µF).
The output signal from IC1a is buffered and inverted by IC1b, to provide
pulses with a positive-going leading
edge. With switch S4 in the correct
position, these pulses are fed to the inputs of the Darlington output stage via
a 1kW current-limiting resistor, so the
pulses from IC1b switch on the LEDs.
With S4 in the alternative position,
trigger pulses for the Darlington array come instead from pin 10 of IC2b,
half of a 4098B dual monostable multivibrator.
This is configured to deliver a variable width pulse, adjusted using trimpot VR3 and switch S2b, which selects
one of four different timing capacitors:
100pF (1-10µs), 2nF (10-100µs), 47nF
(100µs-1ms) and 470nF (1-10ms).
IC2b is triggered by IC2a, configured
siliconchip.com.au
identically, which provides an adjustable trigger delay via trimpot VR2 and
switch S2a. IC2b is triggered using its
negative trigger input (pin 11) so that
its output pulse starts as soon as the
pulse from IC2a finishes. IC2a is triggered by an external signal via a 4.7kW
current-limiting resistor, with a 100kW
pull-down to prevent triggering in the
absence of a signal.
IC2 can therefore be used to synchronise the flashes to a camera or another piece of external equipment, as
long as it can provide a trigger pulse,
with a delay and flash time chosen to
suit the particular circumstance.
Alternatively, you can use switch S5
to route the continuous pulses from
IC1 through to IC2a as well as the trigger input, which becomes an output.
These pulses can then be used to
trigger the camera (or another external device) and they are also fed to
IC2a so that after the chosen delay, the
LEDs switch on for the period determined by IC2b.
Note that the trigger input/output
voltage swing is 12V, as this circuit
runs from a 12V supply. If your external equipment needs or has a different
voltage swing, you may need to add
level translation (eg, a simple transistor) to the trigger input.
The 4.7kW resistor should prevent
damage to external equipment as long
as it has an input clamping diode to
its own positive supply.
White LEDs work very well with
this circuit, even with pulses down
to around 1µs, it is also possible to
drive a laser diode. I suggest that a
470W current-limiting resistor would
be suitable for driving a laser.
But note that you can’t use a green
laser as these are actually an infrared
laser pumping a small crystal to double the frequency.
These work well at very low frequencies but visibly dim as the frequency increases because the crystal
takes time to produce an output. As a
result, when the drive frequency increases, the output consists more and
more of infrared light.
Apart from amusement, this circuit
could be used as a replacement for the
old Xenon timing lights for servicing
cars. Note that in one microsecond, a
rifle bullet only moves about one millimetre. That would make for some interesting strobe photography!
Graham Jackman,
Melbourne, Vic ($80).
siliconchip.com.au
Top octave generator using AVR micro
In the 1970s, numerous electronic
musical instruments were designed
using a chip known as a Top Octave
Generator (TOG).
Almost all of the TOGs used an input frequency derived from a 2MHz
crystal oscillator circuit to provide
12 or 13 square waves for each musical note in an octave, by dividing
this input frequency by factors from
239 to 478.
This provided square waves with
frequencies between 4434 and 8368Hz.
Lower frequencies were generated, for
additional octaves, by dividing each
output by powers of two using counter ICs.
People repairing these instruments
can source suitable divider ICs, but
the TOGs are no longer made. Custom
chips or old stock are available but are
expensive.
An alternative solution is to create a TOG using software but it's a bit
tricky due to the “real-time” requirements. Creating the software TOG was
a learning exercise for me.
The resulting program is written in
assembly to suit a 16MHz ATmega328P
AVR processor – ie, the same one used
in the Arduino Uno and compatible
boards.
An Arduino Pro Mini with a 16MHz
crystal and ATmega328P processor
can be purchased from overseas for
less than $3.
The firmware .hex file was created
using AtmelStudio 7 and I programmed
it into the Pro Mini using avrdude driving an Arduino-compatible FT232RL
USB/Serial Adaptor (also costing less
than $3).
The program was written
to be a faithful emulation of
a TOG IC driven by a 2MHz
clock. The ICs attempt to
produce an equal tempered
scale, where the note pitches
are based on the twelfth root
of two.
This is the scale in common
use for instruments with fixed
tuning such as pianos. The
TOG IC notes are not exact, but
close approximations.
Because the ATmega328P
has a 16MHz clock, the divider values used in the program
are eight times the values used
in the original TOG.
This allows the division
Australia’s electronics magazine
values for some notes to be closer to
the exact equal-tempered scale pitches. The downside of doing this is the
outputs have to align with a notional
2MHz clock, so appear to jitter.
When the signal is feeding a divider,
the jitter disappears after dividing by
eight. It is an area for experimentation.
Another area for experimentation
is using different scales. The period
information is held in flash memory
and copied into RAM as part of the
initialisation process.
There is enough spare flash memory
to have hundreds of 12-note scales; a
selection mechanism would be needed to decide which scale to copy to
RAM.
The program is written so that in
idle time, the flash memory data is repeatedly copied to RAM. This is not
required when using a single scale,
but opens the opportunity to change
scales on the fly.
The program is quite convoluted,
to minimise the number of instructions needed.
There is much duplication of code;
program memory is plentiful, so speed
takes priority over compactness.
The source is heavily documented
to help explain how it works. Both
the source code (TopOctaveP3.asm)
and firmware (TopOctaveP3.hex) are
available for download from the Silicon Chip website (siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/6).
Alan Cashin,
Islington, NSW ($80).
September 2019 109
Formula 1 starting lights for slot cars
This simple circuit uses a humble shift register to implement a set
of starting lights that light up one at
a time, stay on for an unpredictable
period of between one and five seconds, then go out to signal the start
of the race. And if a car spins off the
track, you can change to light to flash
orange for danger!
The project uses three simple 74HC
series logic chips and a 555 timer to
implement the random delay. It is
ideal for beginners as it can be built
on stripboard.
The LEDs are wired together in a
box, with red LEDs3-7 arranged horizontally and yellow LEDs1-2 above
them, with a larger gap between them.
For my prototype, I used some Lego
Technic bricks that look like traffic
lights, attached to a Lego Gantry. The
lens of a 5mm LED is slightly bigger
than the hole in a Lego block, but the
block can be reamed out slightly to
accept it.
110
Silicon Chip
I used Adafruit RJ45 breakout boards
to connect the LEDs. You could use an
RJ45 punch down socket or similar.
IC4 is a serial-in, parallel-out shift register which is used to drive LEDs3-7.
Its pin 8 clock input is connected to
the output of an astable timer based on
7555 timer IC2 via switch S2b. When
pushbutton S1 is pressed, IC4's reset
pin is released and with S2b in the upper position, this causes LED3 to light
first, then LED4 and LED5 and so on
until they are all lit.
This is because the SDa and SDb
inputs of IC4 are tied high, so after
it comes out of reset (and its output
states are all low), 'ones' are shifted in
on each clock pulse, causing the outputs to go high in sequence.
There is then a one-second delay, after which output pin O6 goes
high. This is fed to a set/reset flip flop
formed from the four gates in IC1, a
74HC00 quad NAND logic gate chip.
This signal goes to pin 5 of IC1b, but
Australia’s electronics magazine
when this pin goes high, nothing happens until the other input pin (pin 4)
also goes high. This is driven from the
Q2 output of IC3, a 74HC193 synchronous 4-bit binary up/down counter.
IC3 is also clocked from 7555 timer
IC2, and it runs freely and asynchronously with the shift register. So the
Q2 output of IC3 could already be high
when the O6 output of IC4 goes high,
or there may be a delay of up to four
seconds before both go high, setting
the flip flop and thus resetting IC4 (via
its pin 9 master reset input), switching off LEDs3-7 and starting the race.
You can extend the maximum possible delay to nine seconds by using
the Q3 output of IC3, rather than Q2.
While delays that long are used in
Formula 1 races, it proved a little too
dull for my little ones, so I switched
to using Q2 instead, for a total delay
of between 1 and 5 seconds.
In most cases (50% of the time),
there is only a 1-second delay. Otherwise there is an equal (12.5%) chance
of a two-second, three-second, four-
siliconchip.com.au
second or five-second delay. This
makes for an exciting start to any race.
When there is a crash or a car flies off
the track, a flick of a switch S2 sets the
lights to flashing yellow, to show there
is a track incident and to give you time
to retrieve your car before setting the
lights up to start again. With S2 in the
alternative position, the flip-flop is automatically reset to switch off the red
LEDs, and the yellow LEDs are driven
from the timer circuit via NPN buffer
transistor Q1.
IC2, the 7555 timer, is configured to
produce a square wave of about 1Hz
due to the combination of the 10µF
Six-decade resistor sorter
Testing resistors using a multimeter can take a long time if you have a
large number of resistors. For each resistor, you need to wait for the meter
to auto-range and then for its reading
to stabilise. This resistor sorter simplifies the process by enabling you to
pre-sort the resistors into six groups.
The reduced range of resistor values
within these groups makes it easier to
read the colour codes.
Alternatively, having sorted the resistors, you can set your multimeter
to the correct range for each group
and then measure their values much
more rapidly.
This sorter's indication is instant.
As soon as you connect a resistor, the
appropriate LED lights up to show you
which resistance range it falls within.
I developed this unit after accumulating a large number of mixed resistors, left over from many electronic
projects. Several wattage ranges were
included, with both 4 and 5 colour
bands and a range of body colours,
making it very difficult to read the resistance values quickly.
The resistor to be tested is connected
to the test clips X1 and X2, then power
button S1 is pressed, causing one or
more of the LEDs to be illuminated.
The lowest range LED that lights up
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indicates the group the test resistor
is from. If you press S1 without a test
resistor fitted, all the LEDs remain off.
Resistors near the edges of the ranges
could go either way due to component
tolerances.
This tester uses three LM358 dual
op-amps as six comparators to detect
the resistance ranges shown at the
bottom of the circuit diagram. The
comparators have individual resistive
dividers which provide a reference
voltage to the inverting inputs. The
non-inverting inputs are all connected together and go back to the junction of the resistor being tested and
two fixed resistors, with a total resistance of 1082W.
So depending on the value of the
resistor connected between X1 and
X2, a particular voltage is fed to the
non-inverting inputs of each stage. If
this is higher than the reference voltage fed to that comparator's inverting
input, its output pin goes high, lighting up the connected LED.
Depending on your requirements,
you could fine-tune the voltage level
for one or more stages by altering the
ratio of the two resistors at the inverting input of each comparator. You do
this by changing the value of either resistor. You could even connect a trim-
Australia’s electronics magazine
timing capacitor and 8.2kW/68kW timing resistors. The circuit is powered
from the slot car power supply, 16V
AC, via a bridge rectifier formed by
diodes D1-D4, a 100µF filter capacitor
and 5V linear regulator REG1.
Martin Walker,
Burnham, UK. ($80)
pot in the middle of each voltage divider, with the wiper going to the op
amp input, to make it easier to adjust.
Also, if you use high-brightness
LEDs, you could increase the values
of the 680W LED current-limiting resistors, which would reduce the circuit's
power consumption.
The sorter runs on a 9V alkaline
battery and has a pushbutton power
switch to increase battery life considerably. The battery directly supplies
power to the three ICs at pins 4 & 8
while the various resistive dividers are
fed from a 2V lower rail voltage that
is provided by the drop across LED7.
The 82W resistor below the resistor
under test is optional and was added to
my prototype, to fine tune the voltage
level on the non-inverting inputs; you
can alter this resistor value as required.
This project can be built on prototyping board or strip board and then
housed in a small Jiffy box. Use 1%
tolerance resistors.
The LEDs used are not critical; I
used 3mm red LEDs mounted on the
board and lined up with holes in the
case. The power button S1 should have
tactile or snap action contacts and be
chassis-mounted. Crocodile clips on
short leads can be used for test terminals X1 and X2.
Ian Robertson,
Engadine, NSW. ($70)
September 2019 111
Phone call speech time warning (sales booster)
There’s a sales joke that goes like
this: “You can’t buy yet. I haven’t finished my pitch!”. Many salespeople
get so caught up in talking, they forget
that it’s only by listening to the customer that they can make a sale. This
is a significant problem in any sale that
happens over the phone. Sometimes,
a salesperson will fail to make a sale
because they simply can’t stop talking.
I designed and built this device to
help one of my staff who had that very
problem. Even though he knew he
should talk less, once he was in full
sales mode, it was hard for him to remember to stop and listen.
The device consists of two parts:
an Arduino-based box which plugs
into a USB socket (but only as a power source) and a cable that leads to a
microphone and LED that sticks to the
side of a computer monitor.
Its operation is very simple. If the
salesperson talks for more than a set
time (selectable on the box) without a
pause, the LED goes on. If they talk for
much longer than that, the LED flashes.
The negative side of the microphone
is connected to GND via the shield
of its connecting cable. It is powered
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
112
Silicon Chip
via a 4.7kW resistor which provides
around 1mA, sourced from a filtered
5V rail from the Arduino Nano, with
a 100W series resistor and 220µF capacitor used to reduce noise in the
power supply.
Quad LM324 op amp IC1 amplifies
the signal from the microphone. The
low-level signal is AC-coupled to op
amp stage IC1a via a 15nF capacitor,
and this first stage has a gain of -10,
set by the ratio of the 4.7kW and 47kW
feedback resistors. The second stage,
based around IC1b, again has a gain
of -10, so the overall gain to its output
pin 7 is -10 × -10 = 100 times.
The third stage, based around IC1d,
has an adjustable gain from near-zero
to around two times, set using trimpot VR1. The non-inverting inputs of
these three op amp stages are connected to a 2.5V virtual ground formed by
a 10kW/10kW resistive divider across
the filtered 5V rail. This provides the
DC bias for each op amp gain stage,
keeping the signal between the op
amp's 0V and 5V supply rails.
The amplified signal is fed into the
Arduino's A0 analog input so that it
can sense when the salesperson is talk-
ing. Op amp stage IC1c is not used, so
its inputs are tied to ground.
The Arduino's D3 digital output
drives LED1 via a 100W series currentlimiting resistor, with a 470nF capacitor to suppress electrical noise when
it switches on and off.
Trimpot VR2 forms an adjustable
divider across the 5V rail, feeding the
Arduino's A2 analog input, allowing
you to set the ‘talk time’ before the
LED comes on.
Set-up is simple: reduce VR2 to its
minimum setting, making the talk
time zero. Then adjust VR1 to a suitable sensitivity by rotating it until the
LED lights only when you’re talking.
Then set VR2 to a suitable talk time;
the maximum setting is one minute.
Most of the ‘smarts’ are in the
Arduino sketch, which can be downloaded from the Silicon Chip website.
It implements a variable sampling frequency (up to 500Hz), a programmable bandpass filter which defaults to
70-250Hz, the typical fundamental
frequency range of the human voice,
plus an RMS measurement routine.
Phil Cohen,
Sydney, NSW. ($75)
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Vintage Radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Kriesler Farm Radio
model 31-2
At first glance, this radio looks
like the common Kriesler model
11-7. But it’s actually a 31-2,
which (for most of its production
run) recycled the same case.
This was done to save money
and take advantage of its very
recognisable shape; thanks to a
strong advertising campaign for
the 11-7. This radio is powered
from a 6V lead-acid battery, and
was intended for use on farms.
This Kriesler radio was made for
use on a farm, operating from a single
6V battery. The first of the model 31-2
line was released in 1946 with a timber case (not Bakelite).
Anyone familiar with the popular
Kriesler “breadbox” radio manufactured from 1947-1952 might suspect
that the radio featured here is a model
11-7. Indeed, the bottom of the case has
“model 11-7” moulded into the Bakelite, but appearances are deceiving.
The Bakelite breadbox radio was
strongly promoted at the time, particularly with the phrase “triple throated”. This is because three grilles act as
sound sources: the honeycomb front
grille and two vents in the top of the
case. Catchy as the promotional line
is, this conveys no acoustic advantage
to the design.
Even so, many collectors regard the
sound reproduced by the modestlybaffled 6-inch Rola speaker as better
than most contemporaries.
This radio is best categorised as a
table model. It is 400mm wide and
114
Silicon Chip
weighs a hefty 9.7kg. The mains-powered model 11-7 weighs 10.6kg due to
the added transformer.
This radio comes at the apex of
the Bakelite period, before thermomouldable plastics displaced Bakelite through the 1950s. Manufacturing
this substantial Bakelite case required
expensive high-pressure moulds. The
pay-back was a low unit cost when
produced in large quantities.
Repurposing the model 11-7 case for
a farm radio made good sense because
of the economies of scale for Bakelite
pressing and the bonus of the advertising associated with the case.
The model 31-2 has five octal valves
and this example is firmly dated to
1950 by the date stamped on the filter choke (L3).
Circuit description
The circuit of the Kriesler model
31-2 is shown in Fig.1. It is a rather
standard five-valve superhet, although
it has a few interesting features that I
shall now describe.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Farm radios were designed to run
from various DC voltages, with 6V and
32V being the most common. Many
cars of the time had 6V batteries, so
maintaining and charging a 6V leadacid battery was relatively easy.
A vibrator provides the high tension
supply. Vibrators use mechanical oscillators, analogous to simple electromagnetic buzzers. Once an interrupted DC supply is created, a transformer
can be used to step up the voltage as
required.
The V5124 six-pin plug-in vibrator
in this radio is the synchronous type,
with an extra set of points that take the
place of a rectifier valve. The internal
circuitry of this module, along with a
couple of the external components (to
aid in understanding its operation) is
shown in Fig.2. Both sets of contacts
are mounted on the same vibrating
reed, as indicated by the dashed line,
and this operates at 100Hz.
Contacts “A” alternately connect
each end of the primary to ground; the
centre-tap is permanently connected
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Kriesler model 31-2 circuit, showing
the socket for the vibrator (V5124; its circuit is in
Fig.2) and the supporting components required to
step up and filter the 6V battery supply, inside the
dashed box titled “Vibrator Unit 19-1”. The vibrator
itself is essentially a DPDT relay that self-oscillates
at 100Hz. The V5124 pinout starting from the
right and going clockwise is: primary, reed & can,
primary, secondary, driving coil, secondary.
to the +6V battery terminal. Simultaneously, the second set of contacts at
“B” alternately connects each end of
the secondary to ground, rectifying
the 150V which appears at its centre
tap, as this keeps the two halves of the
transformer in-phase.
This is equivalent to a full-wave rectifier. The polarity of the input voltage
is important. Reversed polarity will
cause the rectified output voltage to
be negative.
In this radio, the components in
the dotted-line box on the circuit diagram are in a canister mounted where
a mains transformer would have been
in the model 11-7. The canister is designated “Vibrator unit 19-1”. The inductors and capacitors packaged with
the vibrator ensure a well-filtered hightension supply of 150V.
In 1950, many farm radios were
switching to miniature valve types, yet
this radio uses octal valves. It may be
that Kriesler had a large stock of octal valves, so the model 31-2 circuit
of 1946 remained attractive. Another
motive for using octal types was that
this meant that they could re-use the
same punched chassis from the 11-7;
by my reckoning, the chassis used in
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the 31-2 is identical.
The physical layout of this chassis
would not scale well to a three-gang
tuning capacitor. This may explain
why an RF amplification stage, which
would require a third capacitor gang,
is not incorporated. It’s a pity, as this
would improve reception in remote
areas.
However, there are punched holes
for three IF transformers, so they were
able to add another 455kHz IF amplification stage.
The front end has the external aerial switched between two aerial coils
via DPDT switch S1; one for MW
and the other to cover 6-18 MHz (1650m). Matching local oscillator coils
ensure that the mixer/converter valve
(type ECH35) operates with a fixed
455kHz IF.
The 1K7 has two internal diodes.
One acts as a detector for the output of
IF transformer three (designated IFT5
on the circuit diagram). After passing
through C27A (10nF) to block DC, the
audio signal goes to the 1K7 grid from
the wiper of the 0.5MW volume control. The second diode feeds a negative
AGC voltage back to the ECH35 and
first 1M5 via R146A (1MW).
Amplified audio from the anode of
Fig.2: the internals of
the vibrator unit. This
diagram also includes
the transformer and
filter capacitor which
are external (and
shown in Fig.1), to aid
in understanding its
operation. Contacts
“A” alternately
ground one end of the
primary, driving the
coil with alternating
polarities to cause oscillation. Contacts “B” alternately ground one end of the
secondary, rectifying the transformer’s output voltage.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 115
Shown above are the Kriesler 31-2’s Bakelite, not timber, case as purchased (left) and the rear of its chassis after cleaning
(right), with the V5124 vibrator, shown at the upper right corner in the larger canister. You can clearly see the green wires
connecting the top control grids of each valve to the IF transformers and tuning gang.
the 1K7 valve passes to the three-position tone control switch, S3. The three
tone choices are (1) straight through
after the primary coupling capacitor,
(2) bass cut by switching in an extra
capacitor in series and (3) top cut by
adding a capacitor to Earth.
The circuitry around the 1L5 output
valve is minimal. There is no negative
feedback from the secondary of output
transformer T2. The 1L5 is directly
heated with the filament serving as
the cathode. The grid bias of the 1L5
is set by the filament chain of connections between the valves. Pin 2 of the
filament is at +6V and pin 7 is at +4V,
giving an effective grid bias of -5V.
Radios with all directly-heated
valves usually turn on and function
without significant delay, much like a
transistor radio. Although four of the
valves are 1-series types with direct
heating, this radio has a prolonged
warmup period due to the ECH35
converter, which is a 6V indirectly
heated valve.
Radio construction
The photo of the chassis shown
above is after cleaning, but before full
restoration. The vibrator canister can
be seen in the upper right corner. The
ECH35 (made by Philips) is easy to
spot due to the metalised shield coating, painted red, that connects through
octal pin 1 to Earth.
That photo also shows the first four
valves with top-cap control grids con-
As is the norm with these types of restorations, all electrolytic and high-voltage
paper capacitors were replaced.
116
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
nected by short lengths of wire to
their signal sources. This arrangement
avoids the potential injection of noise
from longer hook-up wiring that would
have been required if the grids were
terminated via the octal base pins.
The two IF amplifier valves (type
1M5) are well shielded, and for good
measure; the detector preamplifier
valve (type 1K7) is also shielded.
Most comparable radios in 1950
used a miniature 3V4 valve for audio
output. By contrast, the 1L5G is enormous and its internals are clearly visible. The G (glass) designation in the
1L5G valve specifies the classic envelope shape that was near-universal in
the 1930s. The 1L5G valve in this set is
a Philips Miniwatt made in Australia.
Few sets made after this date would
have an all octal, all type-G valve lineup. The 1L5 presented with two bands
of perished rubber as seen in the chassis photo after cleaning. I removed the
perished rubber from the 1L5 to improve its appearance.
There is a pleasingly simple linearity to the above chassis arrangement
of this radio. Unfortunately, this is not
reflected under the chassis. The bulky
components, notably the electrolytics
and paper capacitors, were installed
with little concern for easily locating
specific components or making repairs
(see photo at left).
The large pink electrolytics are
500µF 12VW types made by Ducon.
The marks on them show that the set
got wet at some point in its life.
Restoration
This radio was previously owned
siliconchip.com.au
by Rob Coleman, a singular character
who enjoyed recounting his times as
a technician at Channel Nine in the
golden years of the sixties through
to the nineties. His best stories were
about the behind-the-scenes crises and
horse-play in the days of In Melbourne
Tonight and Hey Hey, It’s Saturday.
Rob was an inveterate acquirer, and
this radio was part of a pile in his backyard, largely exposed to the elements.
Rob served for many years on the committee of the Historical Radio Society
of Australia (HRSA), so it was fitting
that the HRSA assisted in the sale of
his collected items after his death in
2017. But at the end of the day, no one
had taken this orphan home.
Bakelite has never looked duller
than on this weather-worn radio. The
original dial calibration and one knob
were missing and the dial string was
broken. That’s probably why no one
else wanted it. I purchased the radio
to clear the table. My tepid enthusiasm to restore it was elevated when
I discovered it was not just another
model 7-11.
Removing the bottom panel revealed
exactly what I expected – spider webs,
water marks and worm castings.
Thankfully, there proved to be no
faults in the densely-packed shielded box housing the aerial and oscillator coils.
You might notice a yellow stalactitelike intrusion of wax that had melted
through from the vibrator canister
above. Fascinating! My conclusion
was that wax had been used as a noise
suppressant to muffle the 100Hz buzz
of the vibrator.
sirable effect of decluttering the underside of the chassis and making the
valve pins more accessible.
Some fruitless hours passed, with
the radio remaining dead and voltages
making little sense, until that ‘Eureka!’
moment when it all made sense.
Corrosion internal to the pin 7 socket of the 1L5 was causing erratic contact between the valve filament and
the power supply. Inspection of the
filament cascade of series and parallel
connections in the circuit diagram will
show how an imperfect connection of
the 1L5 will cause other valves in the
chain to lose function.
Although the 1-series of valves nominally work with 1V across their filament, they need at least 1.5V for good
performance. All of the 1-series valves
in this radio operate at 2V (6V ÷ 3).
Fixing the pin 7 contact did not completely fix the radio. The RF section
remained dead and external audio fed
in came out highly distorted. Swapping the 1L5 and replacing the output
transformer did not fix this distortion.
The first replacement speaker I used
The 6in Rola speaker was replaced as the coil was jammed and the cone
damaged. However, the output transformer was good enough to reuse.
Troubleshooting a dead radio
I decided to bypass the vibrator in
restoration, and simply use an external 150V DC supply.
Sadly, the speaker coil was jammed
hard, so I tossed it in the bin. I fitted a
replacement speaker but retained the
original output transformer.
The electrical components looked
like they might all be serviceable. Ever
the optimist, I connected bench supplies of 6V and 150V (ramped up from
zero), but got nothing. There was no
output from the RF stages at the volume control and injecting a signal at
the 1L5 grid also produced no output.
The next step was to replace all
electrolytics and high-voltage paper
capacitors. Because of the smaller size
of the replacements, this has the desiliconchip.com.au
The internals of the Kriesler 31-2 were in a mess, with loose parts
scattered around along with dirt and insects.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 117
An advert for a Kriesler table model radio (likely the 11-7) which shared its case design with the 31-2.
Source: Australian Women’s Weekly, May 1951, Page 51 – https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/page/4388702
118
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The internals of a
non-synchronous
V4012 vibrator.
Oak vibrators
were unique in
that they had
a secondary
winding on the
driving coil
which is short
circuited. This
helps lower the
Q of the coil and
thus reduces
sparking at the
driver contact.
(http://members.
iinet.net.
au/~cool386/msp/
msp.html)
looked fine, but substituting another
speaker fixed it, so obviously the first
substitute was no good. I guess that
goes to show that you should test replacement parts before fitting them!
Systematically working through the
RF section brought me a relatively
quick reward. The ECH35 stage was
working fine; injecting a 455kHz signal modulated with 400Hz audio to the
second 1M5 produced audible output,
but there was no result when a signal
was injected to the first 1M5. Finally,
I found the last fault – the first 1M5
had only 1V across the filament, so it
was effectively dead.
The 1M5 data sheet states that
the filament current is 0.12A at
2V. Using Ohm’s Law, that tells
us the filament should have a resistance of 16.6W, precisely the
value of series resistor R46 installed by Kriesler to reduce the
4V down to 2V.
Testing the valve from this radio on the bench showed 0.2A of
filament current at 2V (ie, 10W
resistance).
So I paralleled the 16.6W series resistor with a 22W resistor
to restore 2V across the filament.
Subsequently, I installed a new
1M5 valve meeting the original
specification and then removed
the 22W resistor.
Finishing it up
The radio now functioned perfectly. I put some parts together to create
a dedicated 150V/6V DC mains power
supply (shown below). When I started
using this, I found that its two-core
mains cord was radiating noise into
the radio. I replaced it with a threecore lead with the Earth connected
through to the radio, which then suppressed this EMI.
The cabinet polished up remarkably
well. So, in the end, this ugly duckling became an interesting addition to
my collection.
SC
The custom 150V/6V DC power supply
made for the Kriesler 31-2.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 119
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PIC12F617-I/P
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC12F675-E/P
PIC16F1455-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
Micros cost from $10.00 to $20.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
$10 MICROS
ATtiny816 Development/Breakout Board (Jan19)
ATmega328P
Ultrabrite LED Driver (with free TC6502P095VCT IC, Sept19)
PIC16F1459-I/SO
Temperature Switch Mk2 (June18), Recurring Event Reminder (Jul18)
PIC16F84A-20I/P
Door Alarm (Aug18), Steam Whistle (Sept18) White Noise (Sept/Nov18)
Remote Control Dimmer (Feb19), Steering Wheel Control IR Adaptor (Jun19)
PIC16F877A-I/P
Car Radio Dimmer Adaptor / Voltage Interceptor (Aug19)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13), Driveway Monitor Receiver (July15)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP
Hotel Safe Alarm (Jun16), 50A Battery Charger Controller (Nov16)
Kelvin the Cricket (Oct17), Triac-based Mains Motor Speed Controller (Mar18)
Heater Controller (Apr18), Useless Box IC3 (Dec18)
Courtesy LED Light Delay for Cars (Oct14), Fan Speed Controller (Jan18)
Microbridge & BackPack V2 / V3 (May17 / Aug19), USB Flexitimer (June18)
Digital Interface Module (Nov18), GPS Speedo/Clock/Volume Control (Jun19)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13), 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
Automotive Sensor Modifier (Dec16)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13)
Nicad/NiMH Burp Charger (Mar14), Remote Mains Timer (Nov14)
Driveway Monitor Transmitter (July15), Fingerprint Scanner (Nov15)
MPPT Lighting Charge Controller (Feb16), 50/60Hz Turntable Driver (May16)
Cyclic Pump Timer (Sep16), 60V 40A DC Motor Speed Controller (Jan17)
Pool Lap Counter (Mar17), Rapidbrake (Jul17), Deluxe Frequency Switch (May18)
Useless Box IC1 (Dec18), Remote-controlled Preamp with Tone Control (Mar19)
UHF Repeater (May19), Six Input Audio Selector (TWO VERSIONS, Sept19)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13), GPS Analog Clock Driver (Feb17)
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT
$15 MICROS
RF Signal Generator (Jun/Jul19)
Four-Channel DC Fan & Pump Controller (Dec18)
Programmable Ignition Timing Module (Jun99), Fuel Mixture Display (Sept00)
Oscar Noughts And Crosses (Oct07), UV Lightbox Timer (Nov07)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), 16-bit Digital Pot (Jul10), Semtest (Feb-May12)
Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sept19)
Micromite Mk2 (Jan15) + 47F, Low Frequency Distortion Analyser (Apr15)
Micromite LCD BackPack [either version] (Feb16), GPS Boat Computer (Apr16)
Micromite Super Clock (Jul16), Touchscreen Voltage/Current Ref (Oct-Dec16)
Micromite LCD BackPack V2 / V3 (May17 / Aug19), Deluxe eFuse (Aug17)
Micromite DDS for IF Alignment (Sept17), Tariff Clock (Jul18)
GPS-Synched Frequency Reference (Nov18)
ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB Mouse & Keyboard Adaptor (Feb19)
Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
$20 MICROS
Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14)
Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite PLUS Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus LCD BackPack (Nov16)
Micromite PLUS Explore 100 (Sep-Oct16)
Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Cont. (Oct-Dec10)
SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
$30 MICROS
DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19)
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, HARD-TO-GET BITS, ETC
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (CAT SC5121)
(SEPT 19)
Complete kit – includes PCB plus programmed micros and all other onboard parts
$30.00
Programmed micro bundle – PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SO + PIC16F1455-I/SL
$20.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3 (CAT SC5082)
(AUG 19)
KIT – includes PCB, programmed micros, 3.5in touchscreen LCD, laser-cut UB3 lid, mounting
hardware, SMD Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other mandatory on-board parts
Separate/Optional Components:
- 3.5-inch TFT LCD touchscreen (Cat SC5062)
- DHT22 temp/humidity sensor (Cat SC4150)
- BMP180 (Cat SC4343) OR BMP280 (Cat SC4595) temperature/pressure sensor
- BME280 temperature/pressure/humidity sensor (Cat SC4608)
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Cat SC5103)
- 23LC1024 1MB RAM (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5104)
- AT25SF041 512KB flash (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5105)
- 10µF 16V X7R through-hole capacitor (Cat SC5106)
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
1.3-inch 128x64 SSD1306-based blue OLED display module (Cat SC5026)
laser-cut matte black acrylic case pieces (Cat SC4987)
MCP4251-502E/P dual-digital potentiometer (Cat SC5052)
(JUN 19)
$75.00
$30.00
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$3.00
$5.00
$1.50
$2.00
$15.00
$10.00
$3.00
(FEB 19)
N-channel Mosfets Q1 & Q2 (SIHB15N60E) and two 4.7MW 3.5kV resistors (Cat SC4861) $20.00
IRD1 (TSOP4136) and fresnel lens (IML0688) (Cat SC4862)
$10.00
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD VERSION)
(FEB 19)
Short form kit (includes PCB and all parts, except for the extension cable) (Cat SC4851)
$10.00
SW-18010P vibration sensor (S1) (Cat SC4852)
$1.00
(JAN 19)
Main PCB with IC1 pre-soldered
Main PCB with IC1 and surrounding components (white box at top right) pre-soldered
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
Laser-cut clear acrylic case pieces
Set of extra SMD parts (contains most SMD parts except for the digital audio output)
Extendable VHF whip antenna with SMA connector: 700mm ($15.00) and 465mm ($10.00)
PCB-mounting SMA ($2.50), PAL ($5.00) and dual-horizontal RCA ($2.50) socket
(AUG 18)
PCB and all onboard parts (including optional ones) but no SD card, cell or battery holder
$40.00
USB PORT PROTECTOR COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4574)
(MAY 18)
PARTS FOR THE 6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
(OCT 17)
All parts including the PCB and a length of clear heatshrink tubing
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
P&P – $10 Per order#
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS KIT (CAT SC4658)
$60.00
$80.00
$69.90
$20.00
$30.00
Explore 100 kit (Cat SC3834; no LCD included)
One ERA-2SM+ & one ADCH-80A+ (Cat SC1167; two required)
$15.00
$69.90
$15.00/pk.
MICROBRIDGE COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC4264)
(MAY 17)
PCB plus all on-board parts including programmed microcontroller (SMD ceramics for 10µF) $20.00
STATIONMASTER (CAT SC4187)
(MAR 17)
Hard to get parts: DRV8871 IC, SMD 1µF capacitor and 100kW potentiometer with detent
$12.50
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- ISD1820-based voice recorder / playback module (Junk Mail Repeller, AUG19)
$4.00
- 23LCV1024-I/P SRAM (DIP) and MCP73831T charger ICs (UHF Repeater, MAY19)
$11.50
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB Mouse & Keyboard Adapator, FEB19)
$1.50
- LM4865MX amplifier IC & LF50CV regulator (Tinnitus/Insomnia Killer, NOV18)
$10.00
- 2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module with SD card socket (Tide Clock, JUL18)
$22.50
- ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Part 15, APR18)
$5.00
- MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (DIP-14) (AM Radio Transmitter, MAR18)
$2.50
- WiFi Antennas with U.FL/IPX connectors (Water Tank Level Meter with WiFi, FEB18):
5dBi – $12.50 ~ 2dBi (omnidirectional) – $10.00
- NRF24L01+PA+NA transceiver with SNA connector and antenna (El Cheapo 12, JAN18)
$5.00
- WeMos D1 Arduino-compatible boards with WiFi (SEPT17, FEB18):
ThingSpeak data logger – $10.00 ~ WiFi Tank Level Meter (ext. antenna socket) – $15.00
- Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player/Recorder, VS1053, JUL17)
$20.00
- 1nF 1% MKP (5mm lead spacing) or ceramic capacitor (Wide-Range LC Meter, JUN18)
$2.50
- MAX7219 LED controller boards (El Cheapo Modules, Part 7, JUN17):
8x8 red SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ~ red 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
- AD9833 DDS module (with gain control) (for Micromite DDS, APR17)
$25.00
- AD9833 DDS module (no gain control) (El Cheapo Modules, Part 6, APR17)
$15.00
- CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
- microSD card adaptor (El Cheapo Modules, Part 3, JAN17)
$2.50
- DS3231 real-time clock module with mounting spacers and screws (El Cheapo, OCT16)
$5.00
THESE ARE ONLY THE MOST RECENT MICROS AND SPECIALISED COMPONENTS. FOR THE FULL LIST, SEE www.siliconchip.com.au/shop
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Place an order on our website for an accurate quote.
09/19
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
NOTE: The listings below are for the PCB ONLY. If you want a kit, check our store or contact the kit suppliers advertising in this
issue. For unusual projects where kits are not available, some have specialised components available – see the list opposite.
NOTE: Not all PCBs are shown here due to space limits but the Silicon Chip Online Shop has boards going back to 2001 and beyond.
For a complete list of available PCBs etc, go to siliconchip.com.au/shop/8 Prices are PCBs only, NOT COMPLETE KITS!
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER
APR 2015
APPLIANCE INSULATION TESTER FRONT PANEL
APR 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER PCBs (2)
MAY 2015
APPLIANCE EARTH LEAKAGE TESTER LID/PANEL
MAY 2015
4-OUTPUT UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR
MAY 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER
JUNE 2015
PASSIVE RF PROBE
JUNE 2015
SIGNAL INJECTOR & TRACER SHIELD
JUNE 2015
BAD VIBES INFRASOUND SNOOPER
JUNE 2015
CHAMPION + PRE-CHAMPION
JUNE 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR TRANSMITTER PCB
JULY 2015
DRIVEWAY MONITOR RECEIVER PCB
JULY 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR
JULY 2015
VOLTAGE/RESISTANCE/CURRENT REFERENCE
AUG 2015
LED PARTY STROBE MK2
AUG 2015
ULTRA-LD MK4 200W AMPLIFIER MODULE
SEP 2015
9-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
SEP 2015
MINI USB SWITCHMODE REGULATOR MK2
SEP 2015
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
OCT 2015
ULTRA LD AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
OCT 2015
ARDUINO USB ELECTROCARDIOGRAPH
OCT 2015
FINGERPRINT SCANNER – SET OF TWO PCBS
NOV 2015
LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2015
LED CLOCK
DEC 2015
SPEECH TIMER
DEC 2015
TURNTABLE STROBE
DEC 2015
CALIBRATED TURNTABLE STROBOSCOPE ETCHED DISC
DEC 2015
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – PCB
JAN 2016
VALVE STEREO PREAMPLIFIER – CASE PARTS
JAN 2016
QUICKBRAKE BRAKE LIGHT SPEEDUP
JAN 2016
SOLAR MPPT CHARGER & LIGHTING CONTROLLER FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.4-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK, 2.8-INCH VERSION
FEB/MAR 2016
BATTERY CELL BALANCER
MAR 2016
DELTA THROTTLE TIMER
MAR 2016
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE DETECTOR
APR 2016
FRIDGE/FREEZER ALARM
APR 2016
ARDUINO MULTIFUNCTION MEASUREMENT
APR 2016
PRECISION 50/60Hz TURNTABLE DRIVER
MAY 2016
RASPBERRY PI TEMP SENSOR EXPANSION
MAY 2016
100DB STEREO AUDIO LEVEL/VU METER
JUN 2016
HOTEL SAFE ALARM
JUN 2016
UNIVERSAL TEMPERATURE ALARM
JULY 2016
BROWNOUT PROTECTOR MK2
JULY 2016
8-DIGIT FREQUENCY METER
AUG 2016
APPLIANCE ENERGY METER
AUG 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 64
AUG 2016
CYCLIC PUMP/MAINS TIMER
SEPT 2016
MICROMITE PLUS EXPLORE 100 (4 layer)
SEPT 2016
AUTOMOTIVE FAULT DETECTOR
SEPT 2016
MOSQUITO LURE
OCT 2016
MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
MINI MICROPOWER LED FLASHER
OCT 2016
50A BATTERY CHARGER CONTROLLER
NOV 2016
PASSIVE LINE TO PHONO INPUT CONVERTER
NOV 2016
MICROMITE PLUS LCD BACKPACK
NOV 2016
AUTOMOTIVE SENSOR MODIFIER
DEC 2016
TOUCHSCREEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT REFERENCE
DEC 2016
SC200 AMPLIFIER MODULE
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. CONTROL BOARD
JAN 2017
60V 40A DC MOTOR SPEED CON. MOSFET BOARD
JAN 2017
GPS SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
FEB 2017
ULTRA LOW VOLTAGE LED FLASHER
FEB 2017
POOL LAP COUNTER
MAR 2017
STATIONMASTER TRAIN CONTROLLER
MAR 2017
EFUSE
APR 2017
SPRING REVERB
APR 2017
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MAY 2017
MICROBRIDGE
MAY 2017
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
MAY 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER PCB
JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER FRONT PANEL JUN 2017
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER CASE PIECES
JUN 2017
RAPIDBRAKE
JUL 2017
DELUXE EFUSE
AUG 2017
DELUXE EFUSE UB1 LID
AUG 2017
MAINS SUPPLY FOR BATTERY VALVES (INC. PANELS)
AUG 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER PANELS
SEPT 2017
3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER CASE PIECES SEPT 2017
6GHz+ TOUCHSCREEN FREQUENCY COUNTER
OCT 2017
KELVIN THE CRICKET
OCT 2017
PCB CODE:
04103151
04103152
04203151/2
04203153
18105151
04106151
04106152
04106153
04104151
01109121/2
15105151
15105152
18107151
04108151
16101141
01107151
15108151
18107152
01205141
01109111
07108151
03109151/2
01110151
19110151
19111151
04101161
04101162
01101161
01101162
05102161
16101161
07102121
07102122
11111151
05102161
04103161
03104161
04116011/2
04104161
24104161
01104161
03106161
03105161
10107161
04105161
04116061
07108161
10108161/2
07109161
05109161
25110161
16109161
16109162
11111161
01111161
07110161
05111161
04110161
01108161
11112161
11112162
04202171
16110161
19102171
09103171/2
04102171
01104171
04112162
24104171
07104171
01105171
01105172
SC4281
05105171
18106171
SC4316
18108171-4
01108171
01108172/3
SC4403
04110171
08109171
Price:
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$15.00
$15.00
$2.50
$20.00
$15.00
$7.50
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00
$15.00
$20.00
$15.00
$15.00
$7.50
$7.50
$6.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00/pair
$20.00
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$10.00
$12.50
$10.00
$2.50
$15.00
$15.00/set
$7.50
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$7.50
$12.50
$15.00
$15.00
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$25.00
$20.00
$20.00/pair
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
6GHz+ FREQUENCY COUNTER CASE PIECES (SET)
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO PCB
SUPER-7 SUPERHET AM RADIO CASE PIECES
THEREMIN
PROPORTIONAL FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
WATER TANK LEVEL METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
10-LED BARAGRAPH
10-LED BARAGRAPH SIGNAL PROCESSING
TRIAC-BASED MAINS MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
VINTAGE TV A/V MODULATOR
AM RADIO TRANSMITTER
HEATER CONTROLLER
DELUXE FREQUENCY SWITCH
USB PORT PROTECTOR
2 x 12V BATTERY BALANCER
USB FLEXITIMER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER
WIDE-RANGE LC METER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
WIDE-RANGE LC METER CLEAR CASE PIECES
TEMPERATURE SWITCH MK2
LiFePO4 UPS CONTROL SHIELD
RASPBERRY PI TOUCHSCREEN ADAPTOR (TIDE CLOCK)
RECURRING EVENT REMINDER
BRAINWAVE MONITOR (EEG)
SUPER DIGITAL SOUND EFFECTS
DOOR ALARM
STEAM WHISTLE / DIESEL HORN
DCC PROGRAMMER
DCC PROGRAMMER (INCLUDING HEADERS)
OPTO-ISOLATED RELAY (WITH EXTENSION BOARDS)
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE
LED CHRISTMAS TREE
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (JAYCAR VERSION)
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (ALTRONICS VERSION)
HIGH-SENSITIVITY MAGNETOMETER
USELESS BOX
FOUR-CHANNEL DC FAN & PUMP CONTROLLER
ATtiny816 DEVELOPMENT/BREAKOUT BOARD
ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
TOUCH & IR REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MAIN PCB
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MOUNTING PLATE
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER EXTENSION PCB
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD) PCB
USB MOUSE AND KEYBOARD ADAPTOR PCB
REMOTE-CONTROLLED PREAMP WITH TONE CONTROL
PREAMP INPUT SELECTOR BOARD
PREAMP PUSHBUTTON BOARD
DIODE CURVE PLOTTER
FLIP-DOT COIL
FLIP-DOT PIXEL (INCLUDES 16 PIXELS)
FLIP-DOT FRAME (INCLUDES 8 FRAMES)
FLIP-DOT DRIVER
FLIP-DOT (SET OF ALL FOUR PCBS)
iCESTICK VGA ADAPTOR
UHF DATA REPEATER
AMPLIFIER BRIDGE ADAPTOR
3.5-INCH SERIAL LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER ADC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER DAC BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CPU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER PSU BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER CONTROL BOARD
DSP CROSSOVER/EQUALISER LCD ADAPTOR
DSP CROSSOVER (SET OF ALL BOARDS – TWO DAC)
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL BOARD
BATTERY ISOLATOR MOSFET BOARD (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR/VOLTAGE INTERCEPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR (LFSR)
DEC 2017
DEC 2017
DEC 2017
JAN 2018
JAN 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
FEB 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
MAR 2018
APR 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
MAY 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JUNE 2018
JULY 2018
JULY 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
AUG 2018
SEPT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
OCT 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
NOV 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
DEC 2018
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
JAN 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
FEB 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
MAR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
APR 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
JUNE 2019
JUNE 2019
JUNE 2019
JULY 2019
JULY 2019
JULY 2019
AUG 2019
AUG 2019
AUG 2019
SC4444
06111171
SC4464
23112171
05111171
21110171
04101181
04101182
10102181
02104181
06101181
10104181
05104181
07105181
14106181
19106181
04106181
SC4618
SC4609
05105181
11106181
24108181
19107181
25107181
01107181
03107181
09106181
09107181
09107181
10107181/2
04107181
16107181
16107182
01110181
01110182
04101011
08111181
05108181
24110181
24107181
06112181
10111191
10111192
10111193
05102191
24311181
01111119
01111112
01111113
04112181
19111181
19111182
19111183
19111184
SC4950
02103191
15004191
01105191
24111181
01106191
01106192
01106193
01106194
01106195
01106196
SC5023
05105191
01104191
04106191
01106191
05106191
05106192
07106191
05107191
16106191
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER BOARD
HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN BOARD
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR PUSHBUTTON BOARD
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
SEPT 2019
11109191
11109192
07108191
01110191
01110192
16109191
NEW PCBs
Price:
$15.00
$25.00
$25.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$25.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$17.50
$2.50
$10.00
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Ultracaps: an expensive
way to store energy
I don’t know if it would be worth
publishing a project article on the subject, but a battery made of supercapacitors sounds interesting.
How about an automotive 12V battery or a battery to be used in a home
solar panel system to store energy? It
may be just too expensive, but could
it be an option in certain circumstances? Thanks for a great magazine. (F. C.,
Maroubra, NSW)
• Jaycar used to sell 12V supercapacitors for car amplifier use, but they don’t
stock them any more.
However, supercapacitor/ultracapacitor banks are available online,
for example: www.aliexpress.com/
item/33019886354.html
The problem is that the energy storage of a supercapacitor is a lot less
than a battery; even if you’re willing
to spend a lot of money on capacitors,
it’s hard to overcome that. Especially
when you consider that lead-acid replacement LiFePO4 batteries are now
becoming widely available at fairly
reasonable prices (see Jaycar’s latest
catalog).
To illustrate our point, the 16V 83F
capacitor bank linked above has a maximum energy storage of 10.6kJ (C × V2
÷ 2; 83 × 162 ÷ 2). The energy storage
of a 7.2Ah 12V SLA, costing less than
half as much ($20 retail) is 311kJ (12V
× 7.2Ah × 3600s), or 30 times as much.
It’s also easier to extract the energy
from a battery since its voltage only
varies over a range of about 11-13V
during discharge, while the capacitor
bank has to be charged up to 16V and
discharged to 0V to use all of its energy storage capability.
EHT probe voltage
rating and bandwidth
I recently bought a back issue copy
of the April 2010 issue as I wanted to build the 1000:1 EHT probe
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/121) to
measure the ignition voltage on au122
Silicon Chip
tomotive coils (many kilovolts), both
CDI and TCI type. I have two questions
about this design.
Firstly, how did you arrive at the
25kV maximum rating? I foresee it handling 30kV or maybe even more, and
am curious whether this EHT probe
can be used in that range. I want to
measure a spike which might last only
a few milliseconds at most, so will not
be using a DMM but an oscilloscope.
Secondly, your calibration voltage
trimpot leg confuses me a bit. You refer to trimming the leg to 800.8kW but
even with VR1 at zero, the fixed values of 820kW and 30kW already total
850kW. So how can that leg be trimmed
down to 800.8kW with the trimpot in
series with those resistors? (N. M.,
Northern Ireland)
• The maximum voltage that the
1000:1 EHT probe can handle is limited not by the resistor voltage or power ratings, but by the distance between
each group of resistors on the PCB.
Each resistor is rated at 1.6kV, but that
doesn’t mean you can apply 1.6kV ×
80 = 128kV to the probe without any
problems. You will get flashover across
the exposed pads on the PCB.
From the 12.7mm (0.5in) spacing
between each resistor group, we can
calculate that it should be safe from
flashover with about 2.5kV between
each group, so with 10 groups, that
gives us our total rating of 25kV. This
is slightly conservative, as you could
probably apply a few more kV before
arcover occurred, considering that
there is extra spacing for the resistors
at the probe end.
But 30kV would be pushing it;
whether it could handle that would
depend on the humidity, your altitude,
how clean the PCB is etc.
To calculate the maximum voltage
rating based on the distance between
conductors, see the following website: www.smpspowersupply.com/
ipc2221pcbclearance.html
To answer your second question,
you have to remember that the DMM’s
input impedance of 10MW is in parallel with the bottom leg of the diAustralia’s electronics magazine
vider, so to achieve a total resistance
of 800.8kW, the resistance in the EHT
Probe needs to be 870.51kW (1 ÷ [1 ÷
800.8kW - 1 ÷ 10MW]). Since the fixed
resistors total 850kW, VR1 is adjusted
for about 20.51kW, which is near the
halfway point.
Since most scopes have a 1MW input
impedance, you will need to change
the bottom leg divider resistors to
3.9MW and 68kW and VR1 to 100kW,
to allow you to adjust the total resistance to 4.02MW, which in combination
with the 1MW input impedance, gives
you the same 800.8kW total resistance.
However, we think you are going
to run into difficulty measuring short
pulses with the modified probe. The
reason is the scope’s non-trivial input
capacitance, which will be around
12pF.
This will form a low-pass filter with
the probe’s considerable resistance,
and also a capacitive divider with the
probe’s parasitic capacitance.
Depending on which effect is
stronger, you will either get a roll-off
in the frequency response that could
seriously smooth and attenuate the
pulses you are trying to measure, or
overshoot and ringing.
We suspect that the low-pass filter
formed from the 800MW and ~12pF,
giving a -3dB point of around 16.5Hz,
will be the dominant effect. To overcome this, you need to measure the
modified probe’s frequency response
to determine its -3dB point, then use
that figure to calculate the parasitic capacitance across the resistors.
You can then figure out how much
total capacitance to add, to compensate the probe and give a flatter frequency response – it would need to
extend to at least a few kilohertz if
you are looking at millisecond-level
pulses, and ideally higher.
The only practical way to add this
capacitance would be to connect highvoltage, low-value (0.1-1pF) capacitors across groups of resistors. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to find throughhole capacitors with such values and
ratings. You may need to solder SMD
siliconchip.com.au
capacitors to a resistor pad at one end
and a short length of insulated wire at
the other end, to reach the next resistor group.
These modifications will not be easy
but they should be possible, and you
will end up with a high-voltage probe
with sufficient bandwidth for your purposes, if you take the time to get it right.
Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling
with a 24V battery
I am planning to install an ultrasonic
anti-fouling system in our sailing vessel, such as your design from the May
& June 2017 issues (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/312), which I plan to build
from a Jaycar kit (Cat KC5535). But
before ordering it, I have some questions. Our boat has a 24V battery system. Is there a kit that can run from
this voltage?
Also, our boat is a lifting keel type.
The ballast in the hull is made from
concrete. Will that cause any problems? It is 39 feet (12m) long. Will two
ultrasonic transducers be sufficient,
and where should we install them?
(P. V., via email)
• All of our Ultrasonic Anti-fouling
units are designed for 12V battery
operation only. You could run them
from a 24V battery system, but you
would need a device to step the voltage
down from 24V to 12V that can supply at least 4A. Jaycar Cat MP3356 (5A
24V-12V DC-DC Converter with USB
Charger) should be suitable.
Ultrasonic anti-fouling is most effective while the boat is at rest, so the
keel lifting when the boat is moving
will not affect the operation of the antifouling system.
The unit will work with concrete
hulls. The best place to find details on
how and where to install the transducers is in our September and November
2010 issues, in the articles on our original Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling system
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/12). Those
magazines are available as back-issues,
or you can purchase online access via
our website.
Anti-Fouling transducer
potting is damaged
I finally found time to finish building your 2017 Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling
kit from a Jaycar kit (Cat KC5535). I am
getting ready to install it on my boat,
but I have two questions.
siliconchip.com.au
Firstly, as I was at the point of screwing in the flanged nut, I started removing what appeared like a protective paper on the transducer. I then
stopped as the glue seemed quite permanent. Should these paper covers
be removed? If not, what should I do
now? Can I use glue to re-attach the
torn part of the paper?
Also, I want like to try different positions on the hull to install the transducers and may later move the system
to another boat if I ever decide to buy a
new one. Can you supply extra flanged
nuts and J-B Weld two-part epoxy glue
for attaching them? (C. B., France)
• The ‘protective paper’ you have
started to pull off is the potting compound used to seal the transducer within the plastic housing. This
should be re-potted using a smear of
the mixed J-B Weld two-part epoxy
beneath the lifted section. Having applied the epoxy, press down on the
lifted section to remove any air pockets
and ensure it is held flat for 24 hours,
to allow the epoxy to cure fully.
We do not sell the J-B Weld epoxy
or the 50mm BSP flanged back nuts.
These should be available from hardware stores and plumbing suppliers.
The flanged nuts can be found on
eBay, for example: www.ebay.com/
itm//121940440567 (sent from the UK).
J-B Weld can also be ordered online
and found in many automotive parts
stores. Alternatively, Jaycar sells J-B
Weld (Cat NA1518; www.jaycar.com.
au/j-b-weld-epoxy/p/NA1518).
Speed controller for
high-voltage DC motor
I have a 500W, 220V DC motor
(permanent magnet type) and would
like to know if your March 2018 Full
Wave, 230V Motor Speed Controller
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/10998)
could be used to control its speed.
Would I have to add a rectifier circuit
to convert its AC output to DC? (Dalibor, via email)
• You would get a variable voltage DC
waveform if you rectified the output
of the Universal Motor Speed Controller, with the correct average voltage.
But at higher settings, the peak output voltage would exceed the 220V DC
rating of your motor and could go as
high as 350V DC or even higher, depending on your mains voltage. That
could lead to insulation breakdown
in the motor, which could be a safeAustralia’s electronics magazine
ty hazard and could also destroy the
motor. So we do not recommend that
you try this.
We have not (yet) produced a motor
speed controller suitable for a 220V
DC motor, as is commonly found in
treadmills.
Speed controller for
100W fan
I want to build the Deluxe 230VAC
Fan Speed Controller (May 2014;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/7595) to
control a workshop dust cleaner which
is rated at 100W (a Thor TF810 air filter). Could I use this circuit for that or
would it need to be modified? (W. P.,
Curl Curl, NSW)
• The 80W rating on that device is
a conservative figure. Since a Mosfet
connected in series with the motor
provides speed control by varying its
resistance, the circuit supplies a limited current which varies with the
pot setting, thus offering inherent
protection.
This current limiting may mean that
your fan will run more slowly for a given setting compared to a lower wattage
fan. But it’s unlikely to cause damage,
despite being rated at 100W.
Currawong resistor
burn-out
I have finally built the Currawong
Stereo Valve Amplifier (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/277) and at present am
in the power-up testing phase. I have
used the ‘new’ power transformer (Altronics Cat MA5399) as mentioned in
the October 2016 issue, and wired it
accordingly, with LK6 installed.
Before connecting the transformer to
the PCB, I powered it up and measured
129V AC between pins 1 & 3 of CON7
and 13.8V AC between pins 1 & 3 and
4 & 5 of CON8. I then connected the
transformer to the PCB but left all the
valves out, and switched it on.
The four blue LEDs adjacent to T3
& T4 lit immediately and brightly. The
headphone LED2 was off, and power
LED1 was on (red & bright) and turned
green (bright also) roughly 20 seconds
later. But approximately 2-3 seconds
after power LED1 turned green, there
was a ‘fizzing’ noise and a burning
smell coming from the top of PCB.
After removing power, I noticed
that the 6.8kW 1W resistor next to the
socket for V8 had burned out.
September 2019 123
I checked all the component values and orientation. The +HT supply seems correct and I can’t find any
shorts on either side of the PCB. If you
have any thoughts/comments or require more information, please let me
know. Thank you for your time. (S. B.,
Port Macquarie, NSW)
• The 6.8kW resistor which burned
out is the one shown directly above
V3/V7 on the circuit diagram (Fig.1 on
page 31 of the November 2014 issue).
It’s part of the supply filtering for the
amplifier front-end, powering preamplifier valves V5 and V6. If it burns
out, that means there must be a short
circuit somewhere in the front end.
Since you left those valves out when
you powered it up, that leaves only
a few places where the short circuit
could be. Immediate suspicion falls
on the 39µF bypass capacitor which
is connected between this resistor and
ground, mounted near the front of the
board, just above the Currawong logo.
If that was reversed or faulty then it
would explain the resistor burning out.
The only other thing we can think of
would be a short circuit between components on the board, possibly due to
bridged solder joints, but you said you
inspected the board and couldn’t find
any shorts, and the pads and tracks on
this board are spaced quite far apart.
So that seems unlikely.
There are no other obvious components which could cause this; the following 220kW, 120kW and 47kW resistors would burn out first if the short
circuit was elsewhere. But we suggest
that you check the value of all of those
resistors anyway.
The 47kW resistor in question is
right below the 6.8kW resistor. The
120kW and 220kW resistors are just below LK5. If those all measure OK then
we think it must be the aforementioned
capacitor at fault.
Currawong supply
voltages a bit high
I wrote to you previously about the
Currawong valve amplifier I built (October 2014-January 2015; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/277) where one of the
resistors burned out after I powered it
up (see above - Editor). As you suggested, I checked the 39µF filter capacitor.
Its orientation was correct, but when
removed, there was a small amount
of electrolyte which had leaked out,
making me think it was faulty.
124
Silicon Chip
I replaced the capacitor and the
6.8kW resistor which had burned out
and powered it up. The resistor did not
burn out again, so I think the problem
has been solved.
However, some of the voltages I then
measured on the board were higher
than I expected. The power transformer is producing 131V AC on the main
secondary and 13.8V AC on each of the
other two. These are within a couple
of volts of what is stated in the October 2016 issue.
My concerns are the readings on the
HT supply (before and after the filter)
and the supply voltages at the valves
and heater filaments. I get a reading of
15.03V DC between pins 4 & 5 of the
12AX7 sockets (ie, for the nominally
12V heaters).
Then on the HT side, I read 360V
DC at the cathode of D1, 358V DC on
pin 3 of each 6L6 socket, 270V DC
and 310V DC respectively on pins 1
and 6 of V1 and V5, and 318V DC and
292V DC respectively on pins 1 and
6 of V2 & V6.
The HT supply is approximately
40V above the suggested HT supply in
the article. I realise that this is when
the supply is not under load, and that
mains voltages can vary quite significantly from the nominal 230V AC.
But I am concerned that these readings are still too high. The HT supply
voltages to the 9-pin sockets at pins 1
& 6 seem on point on a couple of pins
but quite low on others. (S. B., Port
Macquarie, NSW)
• 131V AC is significantly higher than
the design figure of 110V AC but as you
say, these readings are essentially unloaded. While your voltage readings
are higher than expected, they are all
well within the component ratings, so
you should plug the valves in and recheck the voltages to see if they come
down a bit.
The ideal heater voltage for a 12AX7
is around 12.6V. Any lower and the
performance suffers. Yours is quite
high at 15V. A typical tolerance figure given is ±10%, which is a range
of 11.34-13.86V. This will almost certainly drop into that range once the
valves have been plugged in, but you
should check that.
358V is a good deal higher than the
308V intended for the 6L6 anodes but
is still well below their 500V maximum rating. And the other readings
are below the 330V maximum plate
rating of the 12AX7.
Australia’s electronics magazine
In a sense, slightly higher voltages
in the Currawong are good – you will
probably get more power from the
amplifier. You will also have more
dissipation, though, including when
it is idle.
That shouldn’t be a major problem, but we never tested the amplifier at elevated voltages. You should
monitor the overall temperature during operation (don’t touch the output
valves though!). Unless there is evidence of anything overheating, you
should be OK.
What is a little concerning, though,
is the varying readings you get on pins
1 and 6 of V1, V2, V5 & V6. With those
valves not in circuit, there should not
be any path for current to flow in that
part of the circuit, and so these pins
should all be very close to the 358V
DC readings you got at pin 3 of V3,
V4, V7 & V8.
What is your meter’s input impedance? If you’re using an old-style meter
with an input impedance of 1MW, this
will form a voltage divider with the
anode and filter resistors, giving you
artificially low readings. The readings
you’ve given are low by almost precisely the amount you would expect
for a 1MW input impedance.
Try using a modern DMM with a
10MW input impedance and see if
you get higher voltage readings on
those pins.
Can Studio 350 amp
drive a 2W load?
I have a few Studio 350 amplifier kits (January & February 2004;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/97) left
over from a project and was wondering whether I can operate them with
a reduced supply voltage so I can use
two of them to drive a 4W load in bridge
mode. Each amplifier module would
‘see’ a 2W load in this configuration.
(J. A., via email)
• Reducing the supply rails considerably from the ±70V specified for
the Studio 350 module would enable
you to drive a 4W load in bridge mode.
However, various biasing resistors
would need changing so the amplifier transistors are operating along the
correct load line.
Overall, we think that you would be
better off just using one amplifier module running off the full ±70V supply
rails to drive the 4W load on its own,
not in bridge mode.
siliconchip.com.au
Troubleshooting High
Energy Ignition
I recently built your High Energy
Ignition System (November-December
2012; siliconchip.com.au/Series/18)
from a kit – it’s for use on an older,
points-based car. After making it up
according to the directions, I was not
getting any spark when the points
opened.
I did a fair bit of troubleshooting
on the board. All the required components are soldered properly and are
the correct value. There is a 5V output
from the regulator and 5V at pin 14 of
IC1 (Vdd). I can see an appropriate voltage at pin 13 of IC1, the battery voltage
monitor. I can also vary the voltage on
pin 18 by varying VR1, and at pin 1
by varying VR2.
But even in Spark Test mode, there
is no output on pin 9. Most of the time
there is no voltage, but occasionally
it goes to around 4.95V. I have tested
Q1 with an Arduino delivering a 20Hz
square wave, and if I connect it to a
coil, I get sparks at 20Hz. The Arduino square wave output is very clear
on my scope, but nothing is showing
on pin 9 of IC1.
While I don’t currently have a PIC
programmer, it seems to me that the
PIC is either not programmed properly or is faulty. Is this common? Do
you have any other suggestions? (I. B.,
Wauchope, NSW)
• If you have 5V at pins 4 and 14 of
IC1 and 0V at pin 5, with the other
voltages you mentioned being correct
at pins 13, 1 and 18, the PIC should
certainly be producing a waveform at
pin 9 when in the spark test mode.
Check that pin 9 is not shorted to
ground somehow. If your Arduino test
involved unplugging IC1 from its socket and feeding the waveform into pin
9, that shows there is no short.
One way of testing that the PIC has
been programmed correctly is to check
the voltage at pins 11, 12 and 8 without the jumper links inserted. These
pins should be pulled to 5V via internal pull-up current. If not, either the
PIC is not programmed, or the crystal
oscillator is not running.
Try replacing X1. If that doesn’t
help, we’re inclined to agree with you
that IC1 is either faulty or has lost its
programming. The only way to know
for sure which is the case is to buy a
PIC programmer and attempt to reprogram it with our HEX file. If that
doesn’t work, you will need a new
PIC chip.
While it is not very common, we
do occasionally hear of faulty microcontrollers.
In one or two cases, the program appeared to have been erased or corrupted, despite it having been programmed
and verified correctly.
LC Meter provides incorrect readings for certain capacitor values
I built your Wide-Range LC Meter
as described in the June 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11099).
Boy, do I love the easy functionality that combining an Arduino with
a relatively simple bit of circuitry
brings. But I have struck a problem
with it.
It works just fine with capacitors
from 100pF to 100nF. From 200nF
to 1µF it reads low, about one or
two decades lower than the actual
value. For example, 490nF of capacitance reads as 16nF (Fosc =
125,563Hz). From 2µF and above, it is
just fine.
The fact that it works fine below
200nF and above 2µF suggests to me
that I’ve built it correctly. I had a look
at waveforms at the Arduino D5 input (the output from the LM311 IC)
and what I see is that as the capacitance value increases above 200nF,
the leading and trailing edges of
the waveform becomes increasingly
‘broken’, with additional low/high
transitions.
My guess is that the waveform
from the top of the tuned circuit is
passing too slowly through the linear region of the LM311 comparator input. The increasing number
of spurious transitions I am seeing
could therefore be due to noise on
siliconchip.com.au
the input. As the capacitor value gets
smaller, the time in the linear region
is smaller, and the comparator can’t
switch its output within that time.
Looking at the signal at CON3, as
the capacitance increases, the amplitude of the sinewave becomes small,
and there is a lot of high-frequency
noise apparent.
After doing some internet searching, it seems that this circuit configuration is well known for this problem and some people even refer to
it failing at around 300nF. I guess
your prototype works right through
to at least 1µF, so maybe variations
between samples of the LM311 IC
can be significant.
Your article makes a rather cryptic comment about trying to improve
the oscillator without success. Do
you have any suggestions for how to
fix my unit? (I. P., Loganholme, Qld)
• Our attempts to improve the oscillator mainly involved trying different component values; perhaps
unsurprisingly, we found the values in the classic Neil Heckt circuit
to be close to optimal and therefore
decided to leave them as-is. You
may be right that your problem is
due to instability, as the optimal
values appear to be right at the edge
of stability.
Australia’s electronics magazine
We sourced our LM311 ICs from
Jaycar, but there’s no guarantee that
all the parts they stock are from the
same batch or manufacturer.
We chose a 2µF threshold because
we found our oscillator to be stable
to slightly above that value. The unit
checks the approximate value before
running the test, and if it’s above
2µF, it uses the RC method instead.
This decision is made on line 114
of the code (from the current version
on the website). You could try dropping this threshold to 200nF or lower (eg, change “2.0e-6” to “2.0e-7”).
This would be the ‘quick and
dirty’ method of getting your unit
working, and would mean that the
LC meter would use the RC method for values down to 200nF. That
should work, but it may be slightly
less accurate.
If possible, you should try using
a different LM311 IC; ideally, one
from a well-known manufacturer
like Texas Instruments. Other things
you can try are using a different power supply (excessive noise from the
power supply may be getting into
the oscillator), changing the two tantalum capacitors to low-ESR types
and checking all your soldering, as
a high-resistance joint could affect
the circuit’s operation.
September 2019 125
Troubleshooting old
motor speed controller
I built your May 2009 10A Full Wave
Motor Speed Controller (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/1434) from a Jaycar kit,
Cat KC5478. After building it, I tested
with a drill, and it worked well.
When I went to use it again a few
weeks later, there was no speed control; the drill just ran at full speed. I
later realised that this drill already
had a variable speed trigger, and using
such a drill with the speed controller
is a no-no.
I went through the instruction troubleshooting guide using a 12V supply, and found that all the test points
measured 11.7V. There was no variation in voltage when turning variable
resistor VR1. I also measured 11.7V on
pin 7 of IC3 and the gate of Q1. I tested VR1 separately and found that the
resistance from the wiper to each end
varied correctly, between 0W and 5kW.
I have no experience testing electronics, and don’t have a great understanding of how the circuit works.
Any pointers greatly appreciated. (M.
V., via email)
• Firstly, you need to figure out why
the VR1 wiper does not vary the voltage
at TP1. That is probably the cause of
the drill always running at full speed.
There could be an open connection
in the 8.2kW resistor that connects the
bottom end of the potentiometer to 0V.
Check the IC supply pins. Pins 1 & 11
of IC1, pin 1 of IC2 and pins 8 & 14 of
IC4 should all read 12V.
If you can find the cause of the lack
of voltage variation from VR1, the averaged IGBT gate voltage (as read by a
DMM set to measure DC volts) should
then vary as VR1 is rotated.
If it still doesn’t work then IGBT
Q1 could be damaged. This can be
checked by measuring the resistance
between its collector and emitter. If
you get a low ohms reading, then it is
shorted and will need to be replaced.
Questions about
Majestic loudspeakers
I’m currently building a pair of your
Majestic loudspeakers, as described
in the June & September 2014 issues
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/275).
In the June issue, there is a photo
on page 31 which shows a view of
the 110mm diameter circular vent
hole. The vent appears to have some
kind of insert inside it, which is not
referenced in the text. What is it, and
where can I get it?
Also, is there any reason why I can’t
add a bottom panel to the base of each
speaker box so that I can attach castors
below, to make the speakers easy to
move? (R. C., Baulkham Hills, NSW)
• Allan Linton-Smith replies: the
black insert you refer to is the remains
of a 110mm port which was originally available from Altronics, but is no
longer stocked. We tried using a port
initially but discovered that it made no
difference to the sound, so we simply
cut it off flush, as you can see in the
photo. So don’t worry about the port,
just cut the hole as specified and all
will be well!
Regarding adding baseboards to
the speakers, it will slightly reduce
the bass output because the floor becomes part of the overall cabinet, and
by lifting the cabinet up off the floor,
they will interact in a slightly different manner.
I know this because I have been
listening to the prototype Majestic
speakers in my garage and they are
propped up on a board, about 10cm
above the floor (to protect the speakers from water damage). They definitely do not sound as good bass-wise as
when they are indoors and sitting on
a timber floor!
But keep in mind that there are a lot
of variables which affect the sound,
such as your room dimensions, speaker position, room furnishings etc. So I
can’t give any concrete guidelines, except to say: try it and see. The speakers are heavy indeed, so if you aren’t
going to add wheels, study handles
might be another option to make moving them easier.
SC
Building the Majestic loudspeakers with an active crossover
I want to build a DIY audio system, and am considering building
your Majestic loudspeakers (June &
September 2014; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/275).
But you’ve published two active
crossover projects since then; the
3-way Active Crossover (September & October 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/318) and the DSP
Active Crossover (May-July 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/335). So I
want to ditch the passive crossover
designed for the Majestics in favour
of one of these active crossovers.
But I don’t have the equipment to
match the Majestic cabinet and drivers to the active crossover frequencies and slopes. I think this needs to
be done with high-end speaker testing equipment and a keen ear! Is this
possible? (B. T., via email)
126
Silicon Chip
•
We haven’t tested it, but the Majestics should perform well with an active crossover. Setting it up shouldn’t
be too difficult, nor should you need
any expensive test equipment.
We suggest that you set it up with
a Linkwitz-Riley response (aka ‘Butterworth Squared’) and set the crossover point close to 1.5kHz. That is
the approximate crossover frequency for the original passive crossover,
as shown in Fig.2 on pages 34 of the
June 2014 issue.
As mentioned in that article, the
tweeter is 12dB more efficient than
the woofer, so you need to adjust the
active crossover and/or your amplifiers to allow for this. If you have a
basic signal generator and a voltmeter that can measure over the audio
spectrum (up to a few kilohertz),
that’s quite easy to do.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Inject a 750Hz (or thereabouts) signal into the active crossover at a fixed
level, measure the voltage across the
woofer amplifier outputs and write
that figure down.
Then inject a 3kHz signal into the
active crossover at the same level,
monitor the voltage across the tweeter amplifier and adjust the tweeter
amplifier level to get a reading that
is one quarter that for the woofer
(-12dB = ¼V).
With the DSP Active Crossover, it
should also be possible to configure
it for a high-frequency boost above
10kHz, as we did with the passive
crossover, to compensate for tweeter
high-frequency roll-off.
You may need to adjust the relative
amplifier levels slightly by ear to get
the best result, but the above procedure should get you pretty close.
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WANTED
LOOKING FOR:
a) Set of Dick Smith Electronics
catalogues from 1975-1982. Must be in
pristine condition. Will pay $100 for the
set (inc. postage), only one set needed.
b) Copy of a book once sold by Jaycar
entitled “High Power Loud Speaker
Enclosure Design & construction”’;
catalogue number BC1166. Will pay $50
(inc. postage) to the first with a pristine
copy, ie, little use; slight dog ears OK.
Contact Melanie (on behalf of inquirer
on 02 8832 3100)
MISCELLANEOUS
ASSORTED BOOKS FOR $5 EACH
Selling assorted books on electronics
and other related subjects like audio,
video, programming etc. The books are
relatively old in most cases and vary in
condition. All books can be viewed at:
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Some of the books may not be for sale,
but the vast majority are available. Bulk
discount available; post (cost varies)
or pickup.
Silicon Chip
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2019 127
Coming up in Silicon Chip
Universal 6-24V Battery Charge Controller
This Battery Charge Controller turns a ‘dumb’ battery charger into a smart
charger, suitable for use with various 6V, 12V or 24V batteries, including leadacid, gel-cell, Li-ion and LiFePO4 (lithium-ion phosphate). It has three preset
charging profiles and three adjustable profiles with one to three-stage charging.
Advertising Index
AEE Electronex........................... 5
Altronics...............................82-85
Ampec Technologies................. 13
50V 8A Linear Bench Supply
Blamey Saunders hears.............. 9
Coming soon, this fully analog design which delivers plenty of current with low
noise. We will also be presenting a low-cost digital multi-parameter panel meter
that can be added to it, to monitor its various operating parameters.
Control Devices......................... 51
How Satellite Navigation (GNSS) Works
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Dr David Maddison explains how satellite navigation systems work, including
GPS (USA), GLONASS (Russia), Galileo (EU), BeiDou (China), NavIC (India)
and QZSS (Japan).
Dave Thompson...................... 127
Electrolube Australia................. 48
ELF Electronics......................... 15
New Arduino Nanos
Emona..................................... IBC
We take a look at the new Nano Every (based on the ATmega4809) and Nano
33 IoT (ATSAMD21 Cortex-M0+ with WiFi & Bluetooth LE) modules.
Hare & Forbes....................... OBC
Three I/O Expander modules
Jaycar............................ IFC,61-68
Running out of microcontroller pins? These low-cost modules make it a breeze
to add more functions to your existing micro. In some cases, they won’t take
up any more pins on your existing micro and can add dozens more, including
pins with PWM capability.
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 127
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
The October 2019 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, September
26th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between
September 25th and October 11th.
Notes & Errata
Fluidics and Microfluidics, August 2019: on page 17, the images for Fig.8 and
Fig.9 are swapped.
Dual 12V Battery Isolator, July 2019: if you use the specified LP2950 regulator,
it’s necessary to add a 4.7kW resistor between 5V and GND for the unit to work
properly. It will also work with a 78L05 regulator in place of the LP2950, although
that will increase the quiescent current by around 3mA, compared to adding the
resistor which only increases it by around 1mA. Future PCBs supplied will have a
location to fit this extra resistor.
AM/FM/CW HF/VHF RF Signal Generator, June & July 2019: the second article describes the core for transformer T1 as being 7mm long in some places and
14mm long in others. It should be 7mm, although a 14mm core will work; it’s just
harder to fit. Also, if you use the Jaycar Cat QP5516 LCD with DIL pin header,
you need to swap the pin 1 & 2 connections from the PCB (by replacing those two
pins with short lengths of wire) as its pinout is slightly different from the Altronics
Cat Z7018 LCD. This is not necessary for the Jaycar Cat QP5521 LCD which has
a SIL pin header. Finally, some constructors have found that the 1kW resistor next
to Q4 on the PCB (connected to its collector) needs to be increased in value (eg,
to 10kW) so that the unit can be switched off by pressing S3.
Bridge-mode Audio Amplifier Adaptor, May 2019: in Fig.30 on p70, the negative terminal of CON4 is incorrectly drawn as being connected to both pins 1 & 2
of CON5. The positive terminal of CON4 only connects to pin 1 of CON5, and the
negative terminal only connects to pin 2.
128
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
LD Electronics......................... 127
LEACH PCB Assembly............. 47
LED Autolamps........................... 6
LEDsales................................. 127
Mastercut Technologies............. 12
Microchip Technology........... 11,57
Mouser Electronics................. 7,99
Ocean Controls........................... 8
On-Track Technology............... 113
PCB Designs........................... 127
Rohde & Schwarz...................... 49
Silicon Chip Shop...........120-121
The Loudspeaker Kit.com....... 119
Triple Point Calibrations............. 46
Tronixlabs................................ 127
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 127
WAGO Pty Ltd........................... 45
Wagner Electronics................... 10
Wiltronics Research.................... 4
siliconchip.com.au
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