This is only a preview of the April 2020 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 40 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "A DIY Reflow Oven Controller for modern soldering":
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APRIL 2020
ISSN 1030-2662
04
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Contents
Vol.33, No.4
April 2020
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
12 Grid-scale energy storage
Renewables are one thing – but how do you store the energy they produce for
later use – when it’s needed? Dr David Maddison looks at ways they’re matching
available energy and demand with some intriguing developments!
34 Review: 900MHz Touchscreen Vector Network Analyser
Until not so long ago, you’d expect to spend $$$$$ – thousands of them – on a
VNA. This one we bought on line for less than $AU60 – including postage! But is it
any good? Is it value for money? Allan Linton-Smith certainly thinks so!
82 1st look: Tecsun Radio’s new HF SDR Amateur Transceiver
It’s compact, it covers all HF bands with up to 20W output and it won’t break the
bank! It even sports a 1.8in LCD panel with waterfall display. And with an SDR
front end, its has performance you’ve only dreamed about! – by Ross Tester
Constructional Projects
24 A DIY Reflow Oven Controller for modern soldering
Soldering today’s components can be a challenge – but a Reflow Oven makes it
a lot easier. Here we take a low-cost, standard (unmodified) toaster oven, add a
micro-based controller . . . and voila! One Reflow Oven! – by Phil Prosser
38 Two new 7-band Audio Equalisers for hifi, PA and more!
Tailor the sound of your listening experience to suit your preferences . . . or correct
for room acoustics and deviations in loudspeaker response. We present both a
stereo and a mono version to cover just about every application! – by John Clarke
How DO you store bulk energy so
that it is available when it is
needed? – Page 12
Soldering SMDs?
Want a reflow
oven? Take a
cheap toaster
oven, build a
cheap controller
and you have one! – Page 24
A 900MHz VNA
for less than
sixty bucks?
Surely it can’t
be any good?
Surely it is! – Page 34
64 Programmable Temperature Control with a Peltier, Part 2
Last month we introduced our new high-performance Peltier temperature
controller. This month we show you how to achieve similar results, whether you
need temperatures from near freezing up to 70° or so – by Tim Blythman
77 Frequency Reference Signal Distributor
It’s one of those specialised pieces of test gear that you’ll only appreciate
when you need it most! It allows you to feed a reference signal to up to six test
instruments without attenuating or degrading the signal – by Charles Kosina
Your Favourite Columns
84 Circuit Notebook
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Multi-code lock with 10 access codes
Micromite-based chiming clock
Self-resetting intruder alarm
Two-wheel self-balancing robot
57 Serviceman’s Log
It would be a waste of parts . . . by Dave Thompson
90 Vintage Radio
Tecnico 1050 and 1140 – by Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Everything Else
2 Editorial Viewpoint 99
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback 103
88
Product Showcase
104
siliconchip.com.au
96 Ask SILICON CHIP
104
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Notes and Errata
A stereo AND a
mono audio equaliser. Whether
you’re into hifi, recording, PA, band
or any other use, we have you
covered! – Page 38
One reference
signal in, up to
six out – without
any attenuation
or degradation
– Page 77
Tecsun’s new
SDR HF amateur
transceiver is
turning a lot of
heads – especially
at the price!
– Page 82
On the cover: with a capacity of
100MW/129MWh, the world’s largest
lithium-ion battery at Hornsdale, SA, along
with its 99-tower wind farm.
See the feature on Grid-Scale Energy
Storage starting on page 12.
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc
Bao Smith, B.Sc
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
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Editorial Viewpoint
“Second sourcing” should be applied to
more than electronics
You may have wondered why the same chip is available from different manufacturers – even relatively
new parts which you would think they would want
to keep exclusive.
For example, the LM833 (OK, not that new a part…)
was designed by National Semiconductor (as indicated
by the LM prefix), but you can also buy LM833 chips
made by ST Micro, On Semi and Texas Instruments (who now own NatSemi).
Why is that?
Well, mainly it comes down to the fact that many engineers (especially those
designing products for military use) are unwilling to design using parts that
are only available from a single source.
No doubt they learned their lesson at some time in the past when a supplier went out of business, and could not get replacement parts for their multimillion-dollar new-fangled tank/fighter jet/whatever. Military contracts likely
require second-sourcing, while commercial and industrial designers simply
prefer having multiple sources to avoid future problems.
I am reminded of this because of the supply chain disruptions due to the
recent outbreak of the COVID-19 virus. We rely heavily on goods from southeast Asia and China in particular, including critical supplies like pharmaceuticals and other medical supplies (sutures, bandages etc). No doubt, most
medical electronics are made overseas, too.
You don’t have to be Nostradamus to see the danger in this sort of reliance.
Sure, overseas suppliers can produce these items at such a low cost that local suppliers probably can’t compete. But for anything critical like medical
supplies, food, fuel and so on, any rational government body or organisation
must surely consider all the possible sources of disruption and have plans
to deal with them.
As much as I hate government subsidies, there is a case to be made to subsidise local industries which produce such vital products. This is to ensure
that we have at least some sort of supply in times of war, disease, natural disaster, widespread strikes etc.
Thus far (touch wood!) the impact of coronavirus in Australia has been
relatively small and relatively well managed.
But as we go to press, the mainstream media is full of reports of panic buying – some, like sanitisers, etc, related to misplaced fears of contracting the
virus. However, there are all sorts of relatively mundane products running out
on supermarket shelves – and there doesn’t appear to be a good reason for it.
Even if the local supply is relatively small, it’s better than nothing and
should be able to be ramped up, to deal with a loss of incoming goods from
overseas during times of disaster.
Perhaps now it will be realised how short-sighted it was to put so much reliance on overseas suppliers for critical items like drugs, and I hope plans are
being put in place to ‘second-source’ (and third-source, and fourth-source…)
them as quickly as possible.
Initially, that might mean alternative drug suppliers from places like India
or the UK (both of which have large pharmaceutical industries), but in the
long-term, we should have the capability for domestic production.
Now would also be a good time for the government to organise an inquiry
into what other critical industries might be disrupted by an unpredictable
event and what we can do, short-term and long-term, to minimise the impacts.
Printing and Distribution:
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s
Australia’selectronics
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magazine
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Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Improved RF Signal Generator
firmware
I’ve had a lot of good feedback on
my AM/FM/CW Scanning HF/VHF
RF Signal Generator design (June/July
2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/336).
I have also received a few complaints
about the operation of the on/off
switch and glitches in the operation
of the rotary encoder.
I looked into why the power on/off
switching circuit may not reliably turn
off. Analysis has shown that variations
in power supply bypassing capacitors
fitted to AD9850 modules or the use
of external power supplies (this can
vary from just 1µF up to 100µF!) with
moderate supply ripple may lead to
this problem.
A reader suggestion to increase the
1µF capacitor connected to the 270kW
resistor on the input side to 10µF may
improve this in some cases, but may
not work reliably over a reasonable
range of input supply voltages (eg,
10-15V). The optimum solution is
4
Silicon Chip
to change the 1kW resistor from the
collector of Q4 to pushbutton S3, to
8.2kW, while retaining the original
1µF capacitor.
Silicon Chip published a note in the
Notes & Errata section of the September 2019 issue which suggests that this
resistor should be changed to 10kW;
while 8.2kW is the ideal value, 10kW
is close enough.
In more detail, when the pushbutton
is pressed to turn the power off, instead
of Q5’s base voltage discharging into
the 1µF capacitor via the 1kW resistor,
this falling base voltage is overtaken by
the residual voltage from the switched
DC supply rail at Q4’s collector.
Changing the resistor value increases the time available for Q5 to turn off.
But if it’s made too high, Q5 cannot
switch on at power-up. So 8.2kW is
pretty much optimal with the timing
capacitor of 1µF as used in the original circuit.
As for the rotary encoder sometimes
giving erratic tuning, it turns out that
Australia’s electronics magazine
there are two types of rotary encoders which are visually indistinguishable: ‘pulse’ and ‘level’ encoders. The
‘pulse’ type appears to be the most
common type from overseas sources,
and the cheapest. This type produces
a pair of short quadrature pulses midclick, with both encoder outputs resting open circuit.
The ‘level’ type of encoders change
at each detent during rotation, and
rest in one of encoder’s four quadrature output states. It is very hard to
know when you are buying an encoder
which type you will get.
Once you have it, it’s easy to check.
A pulse-type encoder will always have
both switches open-circuit when at
rest; they only close during rotation.
A level-type will have one or both
switches closed at rest in some rotational positions (but not all).
The original software worked with
the ‘pulse’ type but, as it turns out, not
with the ‘level’ type encoders. I have
now upgraded the software to V14, to
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 5
handle both types. Adding a 100kΩ
resistor from pin 28 (PC5) to ground
selects the level-type encoder. Leaving
it off (building the design as originally shown) suits a pulse-type encoder.
The resistor, if fitted, can be mounted under the PCB, with one end soldered to pin 28 and the other to a convenient ground connection, such as at
the Scan switch.
Andrew Woodfield,
Christchurch, NZ.
Note: the revised software is available
from our website, and is supplied on
pre-programmed chips.
Class-X vs Class-Y capacitors
I just read the article “The Electrical House of Horrors” by Dr David
Maddison in the December 2019 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/12169)
and have found what I believe to be
an erroneous statement.
In the second main paragraph of the
right-hand column on page 15, the author describes what would happen if a
Class-Y capacitor connected between
line and Earth went short circuit.
Unless there is a fault in the Earth
circuit, Earth and the Neutral are tied
to the busbar at the property entry
point. I believe that a short circuit will
trip the fuse/thermal circuit breaker
for that circuit.
The effect would be similar to an
Active wire of a refrigerator making
contact with the metal case. The hardwired Earth wire should/will protect
me from receiving a zap!
Could the variation of capacitance
between the value of the two elements
in a Class-Y capacitor cause an RCD to
trip? I believe the answer is yes.
Why is the manufacturing process
for Class-X and Class-Y capacitors dif
different? It appears to me that only their
position in the circuit and function
is only slightly different. To me, the
Class-X capacitor is simply half of a
Class-Y capacitor.
Ray Smith,
Hoppers Crossing, Vic.
Response: The description of Class-X
and Class-Y capacitors in Dr Maddison’s article is correct. Here is an explanation of the difference between
them: siliconchip.com.au/link/aaz2
A Class-Y capacitor may be manufactured similarly to a Class-X capacitor, but they are required to pass
more strict tests. Current electrical
safety regulations don’t allow ClassX capacitors to be used line-to-Earth.
6
SILICON CHIP
Australia’s electronics magazine
They can fail short-circuit and produce an electric shock should the
Earth connection impedance be too
high. As you say, this would not nor
normally happen, but it is possible, so it
is protected against.
The photo you sent of an old ClassX capacitor showing connections between Active and Earth would not be
legal to use in new equipment today.
The Class-Y capacitors needed for this
job are readily available from vendors
like RS and element14.
Remember that not all circuits are
RCD protected. A circuit with a working RCD should trip if a line-to-Earth
capacitor goes short circuit. It’s doubtful that a faulty capacitor would conduct enough current to trip a breaker,
but it could still create a dangerous
situation.
Variation in Class-Y capacitor values should not cause an RCD to trip
(at least with single-phase mains).
However, if many devices with line-toEarth capacitors are connected to the
same circuit, this may cause enough
of a current imbalance to trip the RCD.
Given that Class-Y capacitors used
are generally in the range of 1-10nF,
there would need to be many such
capacitors on the circuit to reach the
typical 30mA trip threshold.
History of valve filaments
I wrote the following in response to
the October 2019 letter regarding running 1-series valves at 1V. Valves with
oxide-coated cathodes are designed to
run at a specific temperature, and if
they run too hot or cold, the cathode
will degrade over time. Confusingly,
this was not a problem with the first
valves, which had different cathode
designs.
In the US numbering system, the
prefix represented the rounded-down
value of the design heater voltage.
Most 1-series valves were designed to
run at the 1.4V ‘median’ voltage of a
carbon-zinc cell, not 1V. Most 2-series
valves were designed for 2.5VAC while
most 6-series valves were designed for
the 6.3V median voltage of a 6V leadacid car battery. 30-series valves suit
a single 2V lead-acid cell and don’t
use that system.
The first high-vacuum triodes had
directly-heated tungsten wire cathodes, which glowed brightly. When
less gain was required, both HT and
filament consumption could be reduced by lowering the heater voltage,
siliconchip.com.au
without harm to the valves. But these The power triode filament ran from its (“slip”). The slip is baked on, then
valves were power-hungry, and when own low-voltage, centre-tapped wind- the filament bundle inserted into the
radio took off in the early 1920s, manu- ing. The hum level was tolerable, par- cathode cylinder. This dramatically
facturers looked for ways to reduce the ticularly with contemporary speakers. reduced the warm-up time, and that
filament battery consumption.
Next came “dull emitter” valves, is the system still used today.
AC operation was the obvious an- still used today, where the filament
The UY224 (“24”) appeared soon
swer, but the AC superimposed on the is coated with a mixture of rare-earth after. It was an indirectly-heated tetfilaments acted like an audio signal, carbonates which turn to oxides dur- rode with a 2.5V filament, to match
driving the valve like a grounded-grid ing the manufacturing process. The po- the then-new 2.5V directly-heated
amplifier. Also, the thin filaments heat- tential of “glowing oxides” had been triodes (45) and pentodes (47). For
ed and cooled at 50-60Hz, modulating known for about 20 years prior, but the first time, all the valves (except
conductivity. So up until about 1925, sorting out the chemistry and manu- the rectifier) could run from the same
all home receivers ran off batteries.
facturing processes took some time.
heater supply.
For radio transmitters, these probThe lower operating temperature
The 24 was short-lived as it was
lems could be reduced by running meant much thicker cathodes were followed in the early 1930s by the
thick wire filaments from a centre- practical, and in the US, this led to the groundbreaking 50-series: the 55 duotapped transformer winding. The anti- first triode specifically intended for AC diode triode, 56 oscillator triode, 57
phase voltages tended to cancel out, operation, the UX226, usually known remote cutoff pentode and 58 sharp
and the thick filament had high ther- as the “26”. This had a directly-heated cutoff pentode.
RAYMING TECHNOLOGY
mal inertia.
1.5V, 1A filament.
They were intended to be the
This 1922 newspaper article
It was and
OK asPCB
an RFAssembly
amplifier, since
heart of a radically new superheterPCB shows
Manufacturing
Services
the circuitry used at KDKA
Pittsthe Shenzhen
50/60Hz signal
would be filtered odyne receiver design with either a
Fuyong
Bao'an
China
burgh, demonstrating this technique: out by the RF coils, and it was also 45 or 47 (2.5V) directly-heated out0086-0755-27348087
siliconchip.com.au/link/aaxv
satisfactory for high-level audio. But put valve. This PDF shows examples:
Sales<at>raypcb.com
Then, in the early 1920s,
lamp man- its hum level was still too high for siliconchip.com.au/link/aaxx
ufacturers added a small
amount of detector use. A radically new type of
However, rapid improvements in
www.raypcb.com
thorium to tungsten, which made it valve was then introduced, the UX227 heater-cathode insulation technology
easier to draw into a fine wire. When (27), which had an indirectly-heated saw the introduction of the 59 and 2A5
this was used for valve filaments, there cathode. This also wasn’t a new idea, indirectly-heated power pentodes, so
was an unexpected increase in the but reliably manufacturing them was the need for 2.5V filament voltage disemission performance of the valves, a challenge.
appeared.
due to a minute layer of thorium conThe original 27 heater was a ceramic
Meanwhile, car radios were prolifdensed on the surface of the tungsten. rod with two holes running the length erating, so 6.3V became the standard
The resulting “thoriated tung- of it, through which a “hairpin” heat- heater voltage, and the “50” series besten” valves ran yellow-hot instead er was threaded. The cathode was an came the “70” series. For mantel raof white-hot, considerably reducing oxide-coated nickel cylinder that fit- dios, it was merely a matter of changpower consumption. The first attempts ted over the ceramic rod. It had a pain- ing the transformer secondary windat “all electric” radios were battery fully long warm-up time. Very few of ing voltage.
set designs using thoriated-tungsten this type survive today.
A less-appreciated reason for the
valves, with an AC-filament triode
This PDF shows a typical radio cir- change to 6V was that it allowed the
‘afterburner’.
cuit with those valves: siliconchip. 300mA valve filaments to be run in
The low-signal filaments (typically com.au/link/aaxw
series across a US 110V AC line. A
3V <at> 60mA) were connected in series
In 1928, the “slip coated” heater typical lineup was 6A7, 77, 75, 43 (a
and run from ancestors of the type 80 was introduced, where the bare heater
25V version of the 42), plus a 25A6
directly-heated rectifier through drop- wire is compressed into a bundle, then indirectly heated rectifier. This adds
per resistors and large filter inductors. dipped in a runny porcelain mixture up to about 75V and the other 30V or
RAYMING TECHNOLOGY
Fuyong Bao'an ,Shenzhen, China Tel: 0086-0755-27348087
email: sales<at>raypcb.com web: www.raypcb.com
PCB Manufacturing and PCB Assembly Services
8
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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ai15831356619_Silicon Chip--mouser-widest-selection-205x275.pdf
1
2/3/2020
3:54 PM
C
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 9
ary or driving. It cost me $22 to drive down to Canberra and
$23 on the way back. I use 91 octane unleaded; I will not
use fuel with ethanol as it attracts moisture. Petrol stations
have problems with water collecting in their E10 tanks in
the ground. By the way, the electric steering is brilliant.
The turning circle is very good to get in and out of tight
places. Clever Mitsubishi.
Toyota still has that clunky oversteer that has plagued
them since my first Corolla SE in 1970. I have hired Toyotas
when in Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth, including Camrys and Corollas. Both have the same handling problems.
Jeff Rose, St Andrews, NSW.
Australian ingenuity helped test the F/A-18 fighter jet
As a significant example of Australian electronic ingenuity, you might like to have a look at is the “Digital Loop
Controller” designed and developed at the Aeronautical
(& Maritime) Research Laboratories, Fisherman’s Bend,
Victoria. I was part of the team for over six years, retiring
in 1999 (as shown in the article below).
This was designed to perform real-time structural fatigue
tests of the F/A-18 Hornet airframe, used by the RAAF. It
employed an Inmos Transputer for fast throughput parallel processing to control test hardware, such as hydraulic actuators, linear airbag actuators etc. These simulated
the structural loads encountered in the operational flight
environment.
Over 100 of these Loop Controllers were built for the
test program. Overall, the program was a great success.
Robert Sebire, Emerald, Vic.
SC
so could be absorbed by series resistors or special highresistance power cords (known as “curtain burners”!)
Alternatively, another type 43 could be added for pushpull audio output, eliminating the need for a dropper resistor. This wasn’t just for economic reasons; large parts of
the US were still on DC power at the time, and this was the
only practical way to make a radio for DC mains! You can
see an example here: siliconchip.com.au/link/aay0
In 1935, RCA introduced the octal valve base, followed
in 1939 by the all-glass 7-pin types and slightly later, 9-pin
types.
The other major change was halving the heater current
to 150mA and re-engineering the valve series to work directly from the 110V mains without a dropping resistor, so
most small-signal valves became 12V instead of 6V, which
also suited the later change to 12V car electrical systems.
Keith Walters, Riverstone, NSW.
More articles on hybrids wanted
After reading your December 2019 article on Toyota hybrids, I was thinking, why not an article on the Mitsubishi
Outlander PHEV (plug-in hybrid/electric vehicle)? It can
drive on purely electric power, and does not need to engage
the petrol engine unless the batteries are very low.
Two electric motors run the show. One is in use 100%
of the time; activating motor two gives you 4WD. Should
you need more grunt, the petrol engine will cut in, or you
can select it by a button to give more power or top up the
batteries. Brilliant!
The engine is there as a backup charger, whether station10
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 11
by Dr David Maddison
H
ere we describe several large-scale energy storage technologies and some which work at smaller scales. By “large scale”, we mean applications
that are larger than a domestic battery system that might
be installed as part of an off-grid solar electric installation.
This means backup power systems large enough for a
hospital, factory, data centre or other large institution, all
the way up to grid-scale energy storage.
Grid-scale storage might be used to back up intermittent solar and wind production, or for load balancing or
frequency control on the electricity grid.
For grid-scale storage, pumped hydro is by far the most
popular and cost-effective method. But it is often limited
by the availability of suitable sites (ie, by geography) and
by opposition to building dams – a particular problem in
Australia.
We published an in-depth article on Pumped Storage
Hydroelectricity in the January 2017 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10497). We won’t go back over that again.
The purpose of this article is to investigate and describe
the alternatives.
The most obvious means of storing electricity is batteries.
But batteries for large-scale energy storage are both costly
and have a limited lifespan. Hence, much effort has been
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There are many reasons why large
amounts of energy may need to be
stored. The most significant
these days is to store excess
energy from intermittent
renewable generators and
release it at times of low
generation. Pumped hydro is the most
common (and oldest) storage method,
but there are numerous alternatives
either in active use or proposed.
put into looking for other options (or alternative battery
chemistries which are better suited to this task).
These other options are:
1) “mechanical batteries” or flywheels
2) compressed air storage, either in tanks, cavities in the
ground or underwater
3) liquid air (cryogenic) energy storage or high-temperature storage
4) gravity potential energy storage, using masses raised
to a higher level to store potential energy whether by towers, underwater structures or trains
No energy storage method is ever 100% efficient. The
so-called “round-trip energy efficiency” needs to be considered.
This is the proportion of the energy used to charge the
system that is recovered on discharge. For comparison,
pumped hydro is typically regarded as having a 70-80%
round-trip energy efficiency.
Storing large amounts of energy, no matter how it’s done,
is very expensive and requires significant space and volume.
This is just one of the reasons why adding large amounts of
variable generation such as solar or wind power to a grid,
in a cost-competitive manner, is so difficult.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.1: this shows how Ecoult’s UltraBattery hybrid
technology works.
One must either live with their intermittency, or factor the
cost of the required energy storage into the generation costs.
Energy storage objectives
The main objectives for large-scale energy storage are:
1) For intermittent renewable generators, to take up excess energy produced under favourable conditions and then
release this when the intermittent producers are producing
little power or are offline (eg, no wind or sun).
2) To improve grid stability such as frequency or voltage
stabilisation when huge swings occur in demand or due to
intermittent production.
3) To make money for storage owners via “arbitrage”. In
other words, they buy and store electricity when it is cheap
and sell it later when it is more expensive.
4) To enable the building of smaller and more economic power stations than would by themselves be incapable
of supplying peak demand. Supposing peak demand was
1500MW in a particular market, a cheaper 1000MW power station could be built, and stored power could be used
to supply the extra 500MW for the peak period (eg, two
hours a day).
Objective #4 is only economical if the cost of the storage
is lower than the cost of generation capacity. This is one
of the purposes of pumped storage in the original Snowy
Fig.2: a large-scale UltraBattery installation. These are
DEKA brand batteries, made by East Penn Manufacturing
in the USA, the parent company of Ecoult.
Mountains Scheme.
Note that in this article, many storage systems are described as having a kWh/MWh/GWh capacity as well as a
kW/MW/GW rating. The former describes the total energy
that can be stored while the latter indicates how quickly
that energy can be delivered. So for example, a 1GWh system with a rating of 100MW could be expected to deliver
100MW for 10 hours or 50MW for 20 hours.
Electrochemical (battery) storage
For applications such as backup power supplies in small
or medium-sized data centres, telecommunications hubs
and some other facilities, traditional lead-acid batteries
are still frequently used. They are an old technology (invented in 1859) but are of relatively low cost, and when
managed correctly, reliable and predictable. They are also
highly recyclable.
Despite the relatively low cost of lead-acid batteries,
there are reasons to use other battery chemistries. For example, lithium-ion types have a higher capacity for a given
volume, have a greater permissible repeated depth of discharge and can have a better lifespan.
As a result, lithium-based batteries are now used for
grid-scale storage.
As an example of a (small, designed to serve 1600
Fig.3 (and opposite): Australia’s “Big Battery”: the Hornsdale Power Reserve battery in South Australia. The wind turbine
in the background is part of the associated wind farm whose energy goes into the battery.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 13
Fig.5: a cross-section representation of a liquid metal
battery.
Fig.4: six 10kWh Redflow ZCell zinc-bromine flow batteries
on the Bates family farm in Queensland, 2.7km from the
nearest power lines. The batteries are charged from 72
260W Tindo solar panels, with an 18.7kW peak power
capacity, plus two Victron Quattro 48/10000 inverters to
supply mains power to the home
people) grid-scale lead-acid battery, the King Island Advanced Hybrid Power Station in Bass Strait, as of 2014,
employed a 3MW-capable, 1.5MWh advanced lead-acid
battery as part of its storage system. The specific manufacturer or details of the battery are not mentioned on the
owner’s website, Hydro Tasmania.
At the time of installation, it was the largest battery in
Australia and could supply the needs of King Island (in
Bass Strait) for 45 minutes. The advanced lead-acid battery
replaced an earlier failed 800kWh vanadium redox “flow”
battery (initially installed in 2003).
For a live dashboard of power generation at King Island,
see siliconchip.com.au/link/aayr
Australian company Ecoult (www.ecoult.com) was
formed in 2007 but has been US-owned since 2010. It produces the UltraBattery (Figs.1 & 2), which was invented by
the CSIRO. This hybrid battery technology combines elements of a lead-acid battery and a supercapacitor.
Fig.6:
these 800Ah/
160W Ambri cells
come in 216 x 137 x
254mm sealed stainless
steel containers and weigh 25kg each.
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Silicon Chip
Compared to traditional lead-acid batteries, it can charge
and discharge continuously and rapidly in a partial state
of charge due to its ultracapacitor element, making it ideal for smoothing the output of intermittent energy sources
like solar and wind farms. Its lead-acid component provides bulk storage of energy for times when the generator
is providing little or no power.
For more information, see the video “UltraBattery The
Movie” at https://vimeo.com/208600432
South Australia’s 129MWh “Big Battery”, otherwise
known as the Hornsdale Power Reserve (Fig.3), was manufactured by Tesla and can deliver 100MW. It is said to be
the world’s largest lithium-ion battery.
In November 2019, it was announced that its capacity and
power would be increased by 50%. This is taxpayer-funded,
with $15 million from the SA Government, $50 million in
cheap loans from the Clean Energy Finance Corporation and
$8 million from the Australian Renewable Energy Agency.
Other battery chemistries are also becoming available for
large scale storage, including next-generation lithium batteries like LMP (solid-state lithium metal polymer batteries)
by Blue Solutions (www.blue-solutions.com/en/) and other
solid-state lithium batteries such as those under development by Australia’s CSIRO (siliconchip.com.au/link/aays)
and Deakin University (siliconchip.com.au/link/aayt).
Fig.7: the electrochemistry of the Ambri cell. Alloying and
de-alloying occur during the discharging and recharging
process, with no long-term degradation of components.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.8: the Ambri battery system. Cells are aggregated into
modular 10-foot shipping containers with a capacity of
1000kWh/250kW and an operating voltage of 500-1500V.
The containers come ready to install and the contents
require no maintenance.
Flow batteries
Flow batteries are also used for large-scale electrical
storage. In a flow battery, the electrolyte is stored in tanks
rather than within each battery cell (as with regular batteries). This confers several benefits, such as improved safety and less degradation with charge and discharge cycles.
Disadvantages include lower energy density and lower
charge and discharge rates than regular batteries. Pumps
are needed, which require maintenance.
Some flow batteries used in Australia are:
• Monash University, Clayton, Vic has a 180kW, 900kWh
vanadium flow redox battery as part of a hybrid battery to store energy in their Microgrid system
• The University of NSW has a 30kW, 130kWh CellCube (www.cellcube.com/) vanadium flow redox FB
30-130 system for research, and to store electricity
from a 150kW photovoltaic system
• Base64 in Adelaide (www.base64.com.au/) has a
450kWh Redflow Energy bromine flow battery to back
up a 73kW (peak) solar system
Redflow (https://redflow.com/) is an Australian company
that produces 10kWh zinc-bromine flow batteries (Fig.4)
They are “designed for high cycle-rate, long time-base
stationary energy storage applications in the residential,
commercial & industrial and telecommunications sectors,
and are scalable from a single battery installation through
Fig.9: Beacon
Power’s (https://
beaconpower.com/)
flywheel system. The rotor assembly (hub, shaft and motorgenerator) is integrated into the carbon fibre “rim”. The
rotor, which spins at 16,000rpm, is supported on a magnetic
lift system and is in a vacuum chamber. The units are
buried to contain any fragments ejected due to rotor failure.
to grid-scale deployments”.
The Redflow ZBM2 battery is intended for commercial
use, while the Zcell flow battery is intended for residential or office use.
Ambri (https://ambri.com/) is a US company that has
developed a unique liquid metal battery system, comprising a liquid calcium-alloy anode, a molten salt electrolyte
and a cathode made from antimony particles (Figs.5-8).
This battery system was explicitly designed using cheap
“commodity” materials (no rare exotic materials, or those
with supply uncertainty due to location). It was also designed to be intrinsically safe, with no risk of fire (even if
the container is breached) and no requirement for external
equipment such as pumps or cooling systems.
The system does not degrade with cycling, unlike other
battery systems, and is cheaper than current or projected
lithium-ion battery prices due to cheaper materials and
simpler manufacturing methods.
The nominal open-circuit voltage of an Ambri cell is
0.95V and capacity is 800Ah, with a maximum continuous power of 160W. Voltage cycling is in the range of 0.5V
Fig.10: Beacon Power’s 20MW/5MWh FES installation in Hazle Township, Pennsylvania, USA; the world’s largest flywheel
installation. Its 200 flywheels are used for grid frequency regulation. The tops of the flywheels are in blue, with the
rotating masses buried — each flywheel assembly weighs 5t. The shipping containers contain control equipment.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 15
The two major forms of energy loss in FES are in the
bearings and frictional losses of the surface of the rotor
against the atmosphere; therefore, the bearings used are
usually zero-friction magnetic types and the rotor operates in a vacuum.
Uses for flywheels in large-scale
energy storage include:
•
•
Fig.11: a schematic view of the Hitzinger DRUPS. “CB”
stands for circuit breaker. The kinetic module is the
flywheel assembly.
to 1.25V while DC efficiency is over 80%. The cells operate at 500°C. They are self-heating when started and so require no external heating to reach operating temperature
or to stay there.
In September 2019, NEC announced they would use
Ambri technology for an energy storage system. NEC has
committed to purchase a minimum of 200MWh of storage
that will be used in grid applications to provide energy for
four hours or more, with full depth of discharge cycling.
See the video titled “The Liquid Metal Battery: Innovation in stationary electricity storage” at siliconchip.com.
au/link/aazq
backup for intermittent wind and solar systems
grid stability services such as for frequency and load
balancing
• uninterruptible power supplies with zero switching
time for large organisations like hospitals, data centres or Australia’s King Island Renewable Energy Integration Project
• the electromagnetic aircraft launch system (EMALS)
as used by the US Navy (see our article on Rail Guns
and Electromagnetic Launchers in the December 2017
issue: siliconchip.com.au/Article/10897).
STORNETIC (https://stornetic.com/) is a German company that makes flywheel energy storage systems (Fig.14).
They have installed a system in Munich, Germany, comprising of 28 flywheels that spin at 45,000rpm with a capacity of 100kWh, used for grid stabilisation. See the video titled “STORNETIC - The Energy Storage Company” at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aazr
One type of flywheel-based uninterruptible power supply (UPS) system is a diesel UPS or D-UPS, also known
as a rotary UPS or diesel rotary UPS (DRUPS). A DRUPS
Flywheel energy storage
Flywheel energy storage (FES) involves storing energy
with a rapidly spinning rotor in the form of rotational energy, also known as angular kinetic energy. The flywheel
is typically connected to a motor-generator; it is sped up
by the motor and when energy is to be extracted, generator
mode is engaged, which reduces the rotor RPM as energy
is extracted (Figs.9, 10 & 13).
Flywheel storage systems have long lives and have a
round trip efficiency of up to 90%.
Fig.12: a Hitzinger rotary UPS as used in the King Island
Renewable Energy Integration Project.
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Silicon Chip
Fig.13: NASA’s 525Wh/1kW G2 flywheel. This was an
experimental energy storage system demonstrated in 2004
for possible use in spacecraft. Its rotational speed was
41,000rpm and it weighed 114kg.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Flywheel and gravitational energy
storage equations
The energy of a spinning flywheel can be calculated from
these two equations:
Ef = 0.5 × I × ω²
I = k × m × r²
Here, Ef = flywheel kinetic energy, I = moment of inertia, ω =
angular velocity (measured in radians/second and proportional
to RPM), k = inertial constant (a value from 0 to 1 depending
on flywheel shape), m = flywheel mass and r = flywheel radius.
If we combine the above equations and create a new constant
K, we get Ef = K × ω² × m × r². For comparison, assuming the
flywheels to be compared are the same shape, we can see that
flywheel energy storage goes up with the square of the angular velocity (or RPM) and the radius of the flywheel. Thus, if either the radius or RPM doubles, the energy storage quadruples.
The amount of potential energy in a mass hoisted above the
earth, assuming perfect efficiency, is:
PE = m x g x h
Here, m is the mass in kg, g is the acceleration due to gravity in metres per second squared (around 9.8 at the Earth’s surface) and h is the height. The result, PE, is in Joules. To convert
Joules to MWh, divide by 3.6 x 109.
Fig.14: multiple STORNETIC flywheel energy storage systems.
consists of a diesel engine, an electromagnetic clutch, an
alternator, a kinetic energy module (flywheel) and a choke
(see Figs. 11 & 12).
In normal operation, a DRUPS conditions the incoming
mains supply, producing power at the correct voltage and
frequency. Incoming power drives a synchronous alternator as a motor, to which is attached a flywheel or “kinetic
module” for energy storage.
Fig.15: a proposal from Apex CAES (www.apexcaes.com/)
for Bethel Energy Center in Texas. It will be capable of
generating 324MW for 48h. It uses natural gas to heat
expanding air during power production. The cost is US$21/
kWh versus $285/kWh for a lithium-ion battery and will
last 30 years, or three times longer than a lithium battery.
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Power is conditioned both by the alternator, which stabilises the frequency and blocks higher-frequency harmonics
and transients, and the choke which further blocks highfrequency harmonics.
The alternator, with a special stator configuration, also
blocks the upper harmonics of lower frequencies (such as
the 3rd, 5th, 7th harmonics etc).
In the event of a power failure, the flywheel continues
to rotate, driving the alternator to generate power and losing speed as it does so.
If the power failure exceeds a certain number of seconds,
an electromagnetic clutch is engaged and the diesel motor
starts. This drives the alternator (and brings the attached
flywheel back up to speed) to produce power until mains
power is restored.
For more information, see the video “Hitzinger Rotary
Diesel UPS” at siliconchip.com.au/link/aazs
Fig.16: a surface view of A-CAES at the old Angas Zinc Mine
near Strathalbyn, about 60km south-east of Adelaide. The
water reservoir is full when the system is charged and empty
when the system is discharged. Image courtesy ARENA.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 17
Why energy storage is essential for
renewables
Conventional coal, gas, hydroelectric and nuclear power
plants are usually much larger and have a much higher “capacity factor” than wind or solar plants. The capacity factor represents the amount of power generated long-term compared to
its “nameplate” capacity.
Wikipedia states that Australia has a total nameplate capacity
of 5,679MW in 94 wind “farms”, with an average 60MW nameplate capacity (and a total of 2,506 windmills). As the typical capacity factor of a wind farm in Australia is 30-35%, these farms
on average can be expected to generate 1,703-1,988MW, an average output per farm of 18-21MW.
Because the output of such generators is so variable, to keep
the grid stable and meet energy demand, they are best combined
with energy storage systems. With sufficient storage, the output
of a renewable energy source can be considered “dispatchable”,
ie, available on demand.
This is not usually necessary with traditional power plants
as their capacity factors are close to 100% and downtime for
maintenance is normally planned in advance.
Compressed air energy storage
Energy can be stored by compressing air, which can then
spin a turbine to recover the energy.
In a large-scale system, the compressed air is held in
an appropriate containment such as an unused mined-out
cavity of a salt mine (Fig.15).
As anyone who has pumped up a bicycle tyre or released
the contents of an aerosol can knows, compressing gas heats
it while expanding gas cools down.
For maximum efficiency of compressed air storage, the
heat from compression needs to be preserved and put back
into the air when the air is discharged to produce power,
as the heat contains a lot of the original energy.
In some compressed air installations, the air is heated
not only with the heat recovered from the original compression but by burning natural gas as well.
The two largest compressed air energy storage plants
are in Huntorf, Germany and McIntosh, Alabama, USA.
The Huntorf plant was built in 1978, and it uses two empty mined-out salt domes which are typically charged for
eight hours per day.
Its rated capacity is 870MWh, typically providing for
three hours of discharging at 290MW. It has a 42% overall efficiency.
Fig.18: a rendering of Highview Power’s 250MWh/50MW
CRYOBattery plant, to be built in the north of England.
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Fig.17: a Hydrostor
system. Compressed
air is stored in caverns
and kept pressurised
with water.
The salt caverns are 600m deep and have a 310,000m3
total volume. They are at 100atm of pressure when fully
charged.
The plant in McIntosh was built in 1991, with a capacity of 2860MWh and it can discharge 110MW for 26 hours.
It also utilises mined-out salt domes for storage. It burns
natural gas in a “recuperator” to heat the expanding air
and has an overall efficiency of 54%.
Hydrostor (www.hydrostor.ca/) is developing Australia’s
first Advanced Compressed Air Energy Storage (A-CAES)
facility. The project is taxpayer-funded to the extent of $6
million from the Australian Renewable Energy Agency
(ARENA) and $3 million from the Government of South
Australia Renewable Technology Fund.
It will use a disused zinc mine near Adelaide for compressed air storage, and will deliver 5MW with a 10MWh
storage capacity (see Figs.16 & 17).
Air will be compressed and the heat captured using a
proprietary thermal storage system. The compressed air
Fig.19: a schematic
representation of cryogenic energy storage.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.20: Highview Power’s 5MW Pilsworth Grid Scale
Demonstrator Plant. It began operation in April 2018 and
is backed by UK taxpayer funding. See the video “World’s
first grid-scale Cryogenic Energy Storage System launch” at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aazt
will be stored in underground caverns in the mine, filled
with water to maintain pressure.
During the charging process, water will be forced out of
the caverns and up to a surface reservoir. Upon discharge
of the air to produce electricity, water will return to the
caverns to replace the air. The discharged air will also be
heated with stored heat from the compression process.
See the video “How Hydrostor A-CAES Technology Works
(2018)” at siliconchip.com.au/link/aazu
There are two different proposals for keeping compressed
airbags at the bottom of the ocean. These are detailed in
the videos titled “Underwater Energy Bags” at siliconchip.
com.au/link/aazv (by Prof. Seamus Gravey) and “Underwater Energy Storage in Toronto” at siliconchip.com.au/
link/aazw (by Hydrostor).
There is also a concept from the German Fraunhofer Institute for Wind Energy and Energy Systems Engineering
for concrete energy storage spheres at the bottom of the
ocean. See the following websites for more information:
siliconchip.com.au/link/aayu
siliconchip.com.au/link/aayv
siliconchip.com.au/link/aayw
Cryogenic energy storage
Cryogenic energy storage is a type of compressed air
storage where the air is compressed and cooled to a liquid
form. UK company Highview Power (siliconchip.com.au/
link/aazx) has developed the CRYOBattery which is scalable from 20MW/80MWh to more than 200MW/1.2GWh
(see Figs.18-20).
It is claimed to be the cheapest form of grid-scale energy
DIY Rubber band energy storage
YouTuber J.L. Ibarra Avila built a simple device to use energy
stored in rubber bands to turn a generator, producing a small
amount of electricity to light an array of LEDs.
See the video “Energy stored in rubber bands to generate
electricity” at https://youtu.be/LT_nB07r-4g
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.21: the failed Crescent Dunes Solar Energy Project in
Nevada, USA. One problem with such facilities is that they
kill birds and insects that fly into its concentrated solar
beam. Australia was to have one just like it.
storage (£110 [around AU $206] per MWh for a 10-hour,
200MW/2GWh system). It has an efficiency of 60% in a
standalone configuration or 70% when combined with the
utilisation of waste heat and cold.
In October 2019, Highview Power announced a
50MW/250MWh CRYOBattery project in the north of England with a five hour discharge time.
See the videos “Highview Power – True Long-Duration
Energy Storage” at siliconchip.com.au/link/aazy and “Liquid Air Energy Storage Animation 2018” at siliconchip.
com.au/link/aazz
Thermal energy storage
Thermal (heat) energy can be stored when energy is plentiful or cheap and released later when it is needed. Heat
energy is commonly stored in molten salt, and this was the
subject of two commercial grid-scale projects as follows.
There was a large $650 million, 135MW solar thermal
power plant planned for South Australia, announced by
the SA Premier on August 14, 2017. But despite extremely generous government backing of various kinds (including a $110 million loan), its cancellation was announced
on April 5, 2019.
The reason given was that it was not able to attract sufficient investor funding, perhaps because it was unlikely
to ever make a profit, even with Australia’s very high electricity prices.
The plant was to use a system of mirrors to heat molten
salt in a tower during times of high solar radiation, and
use the heat of the molten salt to drive a steam turbine to
generate electricity including during cloudy periods and at
night. So the heat stored in the molten salt could supposedly be used to generate power 24 hours per day.
Could you run your home
on compressed air storage?
To store 3kWh of energy, you would need a compressed air
cylinder of 2.5m in diameter and 13.7m long, charged to 750kPa
or 7.4atm. Consider that the average Australian household consumes at least 10kWh per day.
For more details, see the PDF at siliconchip.com.au/link/aayz
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 19
Fig.22: the “Energy Vault” stores energy by lifting concrete blocks to form a tower. When later lowered to the ground, they
drive a motor-generator to produce electricity.
The proposed developer ran the only other such plant
in the world based on the same technology, in Tonopah,
Nevada, USA (see Fig.21). It was also dependent on government subsidies, failed to produce sufficient power and
was shut down in April 2019.
There is a working solar power tower in Ivanpah, California but its production has been disappointing, and it lacks
thermal storage; the water used as the heat transfer medium has to be heated up every morning with natural gas.
One ongoing problem with solar tower systems like
these is that they tend to incinerate insects and birds; for
example, see the video titled “Insects and birds affected
by Ivanpah solar tower” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab00
is not suitable for all locations.
Bear in mind that gravitational potential energy storage
has a relatively small energy density. For example, to store
the energy of a single AA battery, you need to lift 100kg 10m.
Or to store the equivalent of one litre of petrol, you need to
lift about 30 tonnes 100m. So to store enough energy to be
worthwhile, the mass or volume lifted must be very high.
Besides pumped hydro, a few methods have been proposed for large-scale storage:
1) hoisting concrete blocks onto a tower using a crane,
then lowering the blocks on the crane to drive a motorgenerator attached to the cable.
2) a similar method by which heavy weights on cables
Gravitational potential energy storage
Gravitational potential energy storage involves moving
mass from a lower level to a higher level and then releasing
it to liberate its potential energy. The most common form of
large scale gravitational potential energy storage by far, also
known as a gravity battery, is pumped hydroelectric power.
Pumped hydro uses water as the mass medium as it is
relatively dense and easy to move around using pumps
and pipes. However, as mentioned above, pumped hydro
Fig.23: a rendering of the SINKFLOATSOLUTIONS Heavy
Underwater Gravity Energy Storage system, showing
weights suspended from barges.
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Silicon Chip
Fig.24: the MGH gravitational potential energy storage
system. A floating platform at sea lowers masses 1000m+ to
the seafloor to release energy.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.26: the Gravitricity
gravity storage system,
with winches powered
by motor-generators
lowering masses
down a specially-built
shaft (up to 150m) or
disused mineshaft (up
to 500m). The masses
are at least 500t each.
Fig.25: a system outlined on the YouTube channel
“McMillion Watts” to harvest ocean wave energy.
are lowered into the ocean to a depth of 4km, or down a
shaft in the ground, then later hoisted back up.
3) driving a train filled with rocks uphill and generating
electricity when it later descends.
4) a (far-fetched) scheme where weights are hoisted and
then lowered from a floating structure in the stratosphere.
A simple and familiar example of gravitational energy
storage at a small scale is the pendulum clock or a cuckoo
clock, where weights are raised to “charge” the mechanism
and released to power it.
Energy Vault (https://energyvault.com/) proposes a gravity storage system whereby concrete blocks are raised with
a crane powered by a motor-generator to charge the system,
and lowered to produce power (see Fig.22).
The company claims it costs half as much as pumped
hydro with a 90% round-trip efficiency, a 30-year plus life
and no cycle degradation.
The system is modular and scalable and provides 20,
35 or 80MWh storage capacity and 4-8MW of continuous
power for 8-16 hours. Each brick lifted weighs 35 tonnes.
The system is said to be simple and inexpensive to build.
A YouTuber by the name of Thunderf00t has critically
analysed this proposal and disagrees with its claims of efficacy. One stated concern is the stability of the weights in
high winds; see the video titled “Energy Vault -BUSTED!”
at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab01
A French company called SINKFLOATSOLUTIONS
(http://sinkfloatsolutions.com/) proposes to lower large
concrete masses into the depths of the oceans (up to 4km
deep) from barges. The system is called HUGES or Heavy
Underwater Gravity Energy Storage (Fig.23). See the video titled “Underwater Energy Storage - How It Works” at
http://siliconchip.com.au/link/ab02
MGH Energy Storage
(siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab03) is another
French company that
proposes a maritime
gravitational potential
energy storage system
(Fig.24). Offshore floating structures would
be used to harvest
wave energy.
This energy is then
used to raise weights
up shafts dug deep into
the ground onshore
(up to 3000m deep).
See the video “MGH Energy Storage – multi weight operation” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab04
Note that most, if not all, schemes to harvest wave energy built so far have failed. See the video “WAVE AMPLIFICATION, WAVE POWER HARNESSING, SOLID MASS
GRAVITATIONAL ENERGY STORAGE” at siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab05 (see Fig.25)
Gravitricity (www.gravitricity.com/) proposes a system of
energy storage whereby weights of 500-5000t are raised in
a deep shaft dug into the earth, or possibly using an abandoned mine shaft; see Fig.26.
The company claims the following advantages on their
website:
• 50-year design life with no cycle limit or degradation
• response time from zero to full power in less than
one second
• efficiency of 80-90%
Fig.27: the ARES pilot installation with a 6t vehicle on
a 9% rail grade near Tehachapi, California. A full-scale
system would be much larger than this.
Fig.28: an artist’s rendition of the proposed 12.5MWh/
50MW ARES train in Pahrump, Nevada. The track length
would be 9km with an elevation difference of 610m, a
grade of 7-8%, a footprint of 19ha and total train mass
of 8700t. It will be used for “ancillary services” such as
frequency regulation to aid grid stability.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 21
Fig.29: the StratoSolar concept of large helium or
hydrogen-filled platforms floating 20km up with solar
panels for electricity generation and masses on cables
for gravitational potential energy storage for night-time
energy production.
•
•
•
can run slowly at low power or fast at high power
easy to construct near networks
levelised cost well below lithium batteries
Gravitricity says that each gravity storage unit can be configured to produce 1-20MW for between 15 minutes and
eight hours. As with all gravity storage methods, the amount
of energy stored is relatively modest. A 3000t weight lowered 1250m into a shaft will store about 10MWh.
ARES or Advanced Rail Energy Storage (siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab06) is a gravity potential energy storage system
that uses masses raised on a rail system for energy storage
(Figs.27 & 28).
ARES proposes three levels of capacity, 20-50MW for
ancillary services; 50-200MW with 4-8 hour duration for
“renewables” integration; and grid-scale systems of 2003000MW with 4-16 hour duration.
During charging, masses are picked up by the train in
a lower storage yard and dropped off at an upper storage
yard. After the masses are dropped off, the empty train
returns to the lower yard to pick up more. The discharge
process is the reverse.
The process is automated and requires no new technology. All that is required is two storage locations with an
appropriate height differential and an appropriate grade,
and a path between them. ARES has developed a cabledrive system called “Ridgeline” for where the grade is too
steep for conventional rail traction, allowing the use of
sites with as little as 240m elevation change with grades
from 20-50%.
Fig.30: the internals of the GravityLight. The weight bag is
not shown.
See the videos titled “ARES-Technology” at: siliconchip.
com.au/link/aaz0 and “A New Kind of Renewable Energy
Storage” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab09
MAPS (MAglev Power Storage) is a proposed system
similar to ARES but using magnetically levitated “maglev”
trains instead of traditional rails and wheels like ARES. It is
claimed to be 90% efficient with a storage cost of US$0.020.03 per kWh.
Studies and presentations appear to have been published
around 2010 but nothing since.
StratoSolar Inc. (www.stratosolar.com/) proposes energy
generation and storage in the stratosphere! This company
has planned buoyant platforms filled with helium or hydrogen 20km up with solar production by day and gravity
potential energy storage at night (Fig.29).
Multiple 1kg weights are to be suspended beneath the
Using compressed air for off-grid
energy storage
The video “AMISH air POWER ~ OFF GRID” at siliconchip.
com.au/link/ab07 shows how an Amish community in the USA
uses compressed air to power their ceiling fans, sewing machines and other equipment (Figs.32&33). The compressed air
is produced either with a petrol-powered compressor or by a
windmill. The air is stored in tanks.
A variety of machinery can be powered using air-powered
motors, such as those available from Gast Manufacturing, Inc.
(siliconchip.com.au/link/aayx) or DEPRAG SCHULZ GMBH u.
CO. (siliconchip.com.au/link/aayy).
22
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.31: a GravityLight with weight bag.
A DIY gravity phone
charger
YouTuber Tom Stanton converted a
hand-cranked USB charger to a gravitypowered one (Fig.34). It was an interesting exercise, but clearly, not a practical one (as you will see if you watch his
video). It demonstrates the low power
density of gravity energy storage. See
“Gravity Powered Phone Charger” at
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab08
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.34: modified hand-cranked USB charger components
inside a 3D-printed case, converting it into a gravitypowered charger. Frame grab from Tom Stanton’s video.
Fig.33: an example of a compressed-air powered air vane
motor from Deprag. Inset shows the vane arrangement and
off-centre rotor. Rotational speeds of 100-25,000rpm can be
achieved.
platforms, which will rise or fall the 20km between the
ground and the platform to generate energy via a motorgenerator. Each kilogram mass will store about 54Wh of
energy so 500 tonnes of masses will store 25MWh.
This project seems to be inactive and we think it’s highly
impractical. See the video “StratoSolar Introduction” at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0a
Two other concepts of gravitational potential energy storage involving the use of large pistons and water were discussed in the SILICON CHIP article on Pumped Hydroelectric Storage in January 2017 (see link above).
Storing energy in hydrogen gas
Water can be electrolysed to produce hydrogen in a “power to gas” operation, to store excess energy for later use in
an electrochemical fuel cell or via combustion. This concept is under investigation, but there appear to be severe
economic and efficiency constraints.
Japan has already committed to using hydrogen as a trans-
Fig.32: a compressed air system powering various equipment in an Amish community, as shown in the linked video.
The Amish have religious objections to using electricity.
siliconchip.com.au
port fuel, and there is a taxpayer-subsidised pilot project
in Victoria to convert brown coal to liquid hydrogen for
export to Japan for this purpose.
The process was developed in the mid-nineteenth century for “producer gas”, and is a coal gasification method.
Coal is reacted with oxygen and water at high pressure and
temperature to produce, at the end of the reaction process,
carbon dioxide and hydrogen. The hydrogen is then separated, liquefied and transported, and the CO2 is disposed of.
Some general constraints of the use of hydrogen as a fuel
are discussed in the video titled “The Truth about Hydrogen” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0b
SC
A gravity-powered light
GravityLight (siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0c) is a gravitypowered LED lighting system design to replace dangerous and
expensive kerosene lights in Africa and other undeveloped areas (see Figs.30 & 31).
The user attaches the device to a sufficiently strong overhead
support and fills a bag with up to 10kg of heavy objects such as
rocks. As the bag descends about one metre, it turns a generator,
powering one LED light. One raising of the weight bag provides
20 minutes of light, and two satellite lights can also be attached.
The light output of the GL02 model is a modest 80mW/15
lumens for the primary light and 15 lumens combined for the
two satellite lights. That is sufficient to see inside a typical African dwelling at night and also for reading.
You can purchase this light if you want one. Another device
intended to provide basic light in undeveloped countries is the
solar-powered LuminAID.
See the videos
“What is GravityLight?” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0d
and
“Gravity Light Review” at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0e
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 23
DIY Solder
ReFLow Oven
by
Phil Prosser
with PID Control
Make short work of soldering boards full of surface-mounting
components with this low-cost and easy-to-build DIY solder reflow oven.
It’s quite cheap to build but it runs your PCB(s) through a temperature
profile much like a professional reflow setup costing thousands of
dollars! It can also be used to ‘bake’ components, cure glue or paint or
any other task where you need to hold something at a stable, elevated
temperature for some time.
Features
• Self-contained controller converts a toaster oven into a reflow oven
• Temperature profile follows standard reflow soldering profiles closely
• Closed-loop PID (proportional-integral-differential) temperature control using thermocouple and solid-state relay
• Can hold oven temperature at any point in the range of 20-230°C (eg, for ‘baking’ components or curing paint/glue)
24
Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
T
here are several reasons that SMD components are
becoming so common, to the point that it’s becoming very difficult to avoid them.
It is due to the need to make products ever smaller, and
the lower cost of mass manufacturing these parts and the
boards that use them. As a result of these and other factors, most manufacturers do not release new components
in anything but surface-mount packages.
If you have young eyes, a microscope or good magnifying glass and some patience, this is not such a problem. So
while we are conscious that surface mount devices (SMDs)
present a challenge to some, we use them where we need to.
But some of the smaller packages present a real challenge, especially those with thermal pads in the middle of
the device, and leadless packages to name a very annoying
few! These cannot be soldered with a regular iron.
If you see yourself building projects with SMD parts and
especially the pesky ones that do not lend themselves to
hand SMD soldering techniques, then this project is for you.
Alternatively, if you are looking for a simple way to control the temperature of an electrically heated oven, this is
also a very handy device for that job.
Working with SMDs
We have, at times, used a hot-air blower on the device,
to heat it and the board until a thermal pad under an IC
reflows.
This generally works, but it’s a bit of a hit-and-miss method, requires quite a bit of skill, and can regrettably lead to
the demise of expensive chips!
Not only that, but a hot-air blower invariably tries to
blow the SMDs out of position!
In commercial manufacture, these devices are generally
‘reflow soldered’ in one form of oven or another.
This project presents a more controlled alternative to our
brute force methods. It follows in the footsteps of others who
have repurposed a toaster oven as an SMD reflow oven (eg,
as described in our March 2008 article on “How to solder
surface-mount devices”; siliconchip.com.au/Article/1767).
What is reflow soldering?
Reflow soldering is a process where solder paste is applied to the pads on a PCB, the SMD components are loaded
onto this paste, and the entire PCB goes into a reflow oven.
This subjects the board to a temperature profile that heat
soaks the components, then briefly bumps the temperature
up to melt and ‘reflow’ the solder paste.
The entire process in a commercial environment is automated, with robots loading the components and the reflow oven having sophisticated thermal control and the
ability to ramp the temperature up and down from the reflow point very quickly.
While that’s nice, you don’t need all that complicated a
rig to get a good result. This project repurposes a regular
toaster oven to allow you to reflow one or several boards.
We are using tin/lead solder, and recommend that you
use this too, due to its lower temperature requirements. It
may be possible to use such a rig with lead-free solder, but
we haven’t tried it.
This allows you to solder pretty well any SMD to a PCB,
and to handle those pesky devices with heat spreaders and
LCC packages. It works just as well for your usual resistors, capacitors and semiconductors. And the great thing
siliconchip.com.au
This project uses hardware which was previously used in the
DSP Crossover (May-July 2019: siliconchip.com.au/Series/335
siliconchip.com.au/Series/335).
).
However, the firmware loaded into the PIC32 microcontroller is,
naturally, quite different. Pre-programmed chips, along with the
PCBs required are available from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP
(siliconchip.com.au/Shop
siliconchip.com.au/Shop).
).
Most of the other components should be easily obtainable
from your favourite parts supplier, although there are a few specialised components whose sources are shown in the parts list.
What is PID?
There are many ways to control a temperature. The simplest
is to switch the heater on if the target is below the setpoint,
otherwise, switch it off. This is sometimes called “bang-bang”
control; it is either flat out or off.
This works, but is subject to errors and lots of overshoot,
as it does not consider how far the sensed temperature is
from the setpoint, nor how fast the temperature is approaching the setpoint.
A proportional/integral/differential (PID) controller addresses
these shortcomings. It has parameters for:
• Proportional control, ie, linearly related to the difference between the two temperatures.
• Differential control, ie, how fast the temperature is changing;
this affects how hard we drive the temperature. This uses the
rate-of-change of temperature to minimise overshoot.
• Integral control, ie, looking at how much the sensed temperature missed the target. We integrate the error in temperature and feed this into the algorithm to ‘trim’ the error
out long-term.
This seems complex, but don’t worry. The supplied software
handles all the details, and comes with a good initial set of parameters which give you a decent starting point.
The main reason we’re using PID control is to minimise temperature overshoot. The toaster oven has a lot of thermal mass,
as does the heating system, so it is slow to respond.
Once the element has been on for a while, after you switch
it off, the temperature keeps rising for quite some time. This
makes a ‘bang-bang’ controller very prone to overshoot. The
differential term in the PID controller helps us tame this.
Despite this, it’s likely that your oven will still experience
some overshoot. This can happen for several reasons; it may
be that the PID parameters used are not ideal, but the fact is
that the parameters can really only be tuned properly for a single temperature.
Given that it’s crucial to avoid overshoot at higher temperatures, you’re more likely to experience it at lower temperature
set points.
The controller’s user interface lets you adjust the PID variables to tune the controller for various ovens. Inside our controller software, we have put modifications into the PID controller settings that reduce the drive and increase the damping for
temperatures below 100°C, in an attempt to mitigate the aforementioned low-temperature overshoot problem.
We also disable PID control for the last ‘reflow sprint’, to get
this over with as quickly as possible.
The result is that the errors are relatively small; certainly, a
lot less than a ‘bang bang’ controller would produce.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 25
PID REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER
USER INTERFACE
THERMOCOUPLE
AMPLIFIER
ROTARY
ENCODER
PUSH
BUTTON
OVEN CONTROLLER
(PIC32MZ)
CON10
CON8
128 x 64
PIXEL LCD
K TYPE
THERMOCOUPLE
TTL
CONTROL
CON5
9V DC
SOLID STATE RELAY
(OPTO ISOLATED)
230V
MAINS
INPUT
SWITCHED 230V
TOASTER OVEN
Fig.1: a block diagram showing the basic operation of the DIY reflow oven. The oven temperature is sensed by a
thermocouple placed within, and this is fed back to the PIC-based controller board via a thermocouple amplifier. It
then controls the temperature by switching the oven element on or off via a mains-rated solid-state relay (SSR).
is that you can solder many components at once; a whole
board (or even a few) is possible, depending on the design.
We should point out here that some board designs may
not be suitable for reflow soldering.
It’s generally best to have a consistent amount of copper across the PCB to use this technique. A board with a
large ground plane on one side and sparse tracks on the
other will not heat evenly, and so you could end up with
unmelted solder paste at one end, or in the worst case, a
burnt PCB at the other!
Having said that, a great many SMD-populated boards
can be soldered in a reflow oven. So it’s a very useful tool.
The simple method
With a stopwatch, a K-type thermocouple and some practise, it is possible to work out an “on/off” timing sheet that
you can use to reflow SMDs manually. But this is a bit hit
and miss, and if you have a moment of inattention, things
can come unstuck.
This project takes the guesswork out of using an oven
for reflow, and the controlling computer should not have
any moments of inattention!
What is it?
I have designed a proportional-integral-differential (PID)
controller which oversees the oven heating, with user-defined heat soak and reflow temperatures. I have determined
the PID coefficients that work for my test oven, but they
are ‘tunable’ for your oven (you may find that my values
work fine). The basic configuration of the device is shown
in the block diagram, Fig.1.
The control block at left is built using a PIC32MZ-based
microcontroller board that we have used in two projects
already (more on that later). It senses the oven temperature
using a K-type thermocouple and a prebuilt thermocouple
amplifier module. A solid-state mains relay controls the
oven heating elements, and it’s rounded off by an LCD so
you can see what’s going on, and a basic power supply.
In the development process, I pulled a couple of ovens
26
Silicon Chip
SC
2020
apart intending to integrate the controller into the oven itself. This is definitely possible, and experienced constructors may take this approach.
But for this project, we have chosen to present a standalone controller for a few reasons.
Firstly, once you are inside the oven, you are presented
with a lot of exposed live parts, and every oven will be different, so it’s difficult for us to describe how to do this safely.
Secondly, there is generally no insulation between the
oven wall and the equipment space behind the controls.
Typical PVC wiring is rated to 70°C.
While some types of wire can operate at higher temperatures, they still cannot withstand the temperatures at
which the oven operates.
So you would have to choose carefully where to mount
the controller, and insulate it thoroughly against heat.
Note that the oven manufacturers utilise fibreglass-insulated wiring and crimp/weld connections exclusively. This is a
good choice for an oven but not conducive to DIY modification. So we decided to leave the oven completely unmodified.
One of the nice features of this controller, besides the
ability to follow a reflow-soldering profile, is the ability to
accurately bring the oven up to a set temperature and hold
it there. Now that I have this feature, I often use it for curing paints and glues at 60°C.
If you recall your chemistry lessons, for every 10°C (or
10K) increase in temperature, chemical reactions typically
double in speed. I’m impatient, so using the oven to fastcure paints and glues is hard to resist!
Note that many SMDs also require you to bake them at a
particular temperature for a particular time before soldering if their packages have been open for more than a few
hours/days/weeks. This is usually printed on the packaging.
So this oven is ideal for doing that too.
Limitations
There are one or two limitations that we have accepted
in this project:
• The choice of oven limits the temperature ramp rate.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
This is to whet your appetites ready for next month (when we’ll assemble the various components into the case). Note that
this photo was taken BEFORE the Presspahn safety shield was installed. For your continued health, it must be included!
We chose a 1500W oven, and it works well. We recommend that you use an oven with a similar power rating.
• Convection ovens are a touch more expensive. We tried
both and found convection ovens to be a better choice,
but not by enough to recommend that you spend the extra cash. One limitation of a convection oven is that, unless you modify the oven, when we switch the element
off, the convection fan also switches off.
• We have not built a “door opener”. At the end of the
reflow cycle, professional ovens cool the board reasonably quickly. In this project, you need to open the door
of the oven a crack yourself. This results in a cool-down
that is remarkably close to the recommended temperature profile.
One advantage that we did note when using convection
ovens (which are basically toaster ovens with fans) is that
they have reduced overshoot at low temperature settings.
That is not a big deal for SMT reflow but makes a surprising difference if you’re running the oven at lower temperatures, like 60°C, for drying paint or curing glue faster.
However, to get this benefit, you need to modify the
oven so that it has a separate mains supply for the fan, to
allow it to run all the time and not just when the heating
element is on.
Because of the safety implications of doing that, we
suggest that only experienced constructors with plenty of
mains wiring experience take on this job.
siliconchip.com.au
The overshoot on a non-convection oven going from 20°C
to 60°C is about 10°C, while for a convection oven with the
fan wired to run constantly, it is closer to 3°C. Setting the
PID parameters to avoid this with a non-convection oven
would result in super-slow heating times.
Safety
This project has been developed to minimise the amount
of mains wiring that you need to do. The only mains wiring we need to do is to connect the solid-state relay in the
controller to a dual IEC mains socket.
All other parts of this project operate from a 9V plugpack,
so most of the assembly work is easy and safe.
Choosing an oven
We bought the toaster oven shown here from Kmart. You
need an oven with manual control, a mechanical timer, dual
elements (top and bottom), a minimum power of 1500W,
with no LCD or other electronic controls.
If you can get a convection oven that matches these requirements without spending much more money, then do
so. Our oven cost $59. If you feel tempted to spend much
more than $100, check yourself, as you might be buying
something beyond what is needed.
The thermocouple
Thermocouples are the ‘go-to’ device for measuring high
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 27
Fig.2: the circuit of the control board. 32-bit microcontroller IC11
derives its internal clock from 8MHz crystal X2 and has numerous
supply bypass capacitors. It runs from a regulated 3.3V supply
28
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
provided by adjustable low-dropout regulator REG2. EEPROM IC12 is used to store the settings (PID parameters,
temperatures settings etc). The graphical LCD is connected via CON8, the front panel controls via CON11 and
the thermocouple and SSR via CON10.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 29
4.7k
R1
4.7k
R2
S2
SELECT
S1
EXIT
TO PORTE
CON20
3.3V 1
5
PS0
PS1
ROTARY
ENCODER
4
B
COM
2 A
3
2
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1
RE1
(PS0 & PS1
NOT PRESENT
ON ALTRONICS
ENCODER)
4.7k
R3
4.7k
R4
22nF
22nF
FOR ENCODER TYPE 1 (Simple Grey Code per click): FIT R3 & R4
FOR ENCODER TYPE 2 (One complete cycle of Grey Code per click): FIT R1 & R4
FOR ENCODER TYPE 3 (Three changes in phase per click): FIT R2 & R3
SC
20 1 9
solder reflow oven
FRONT PANEL CIRCUIT
temperatures. Thermocouples rely on the thermo-electric
effect of two dissimilar metals in contact. A K-type thermocouple has wires made of chromel (nickel/chromium)
and alumel (nickel/aluminium/manganese and silicon).
These are standard and very interchangeable. They work
to well over 1000°C, plenty for this application.
A thermocouple amplifier interface module is also needed. It converts the tiny voltages the thermocouple generates to a higher voltage that we can measure with the PIC.
It also performs ‘cold junction’ compensation.
Just as the thermocouple generates a voltage from the dissimilar metal junction at its tip, it also generates a voltage
where the chromel and alumel wires join our controller.
The thermocouple amplifier has a built-in compensation
for this (which depends on its own temperature).
This meant that if you need the ultimate precision, you
will need to connect the thermocouple wires straight to
the thermocouple amplifier, and not use plugs as shown
in our project (Jaycar also has a thermocouple without the
plugs, Cat QM1823).
We bought our
K-type thermocouple on ebay for
just over one dollar
– including postage!
Fig.3: the components shown here
mount on a front-panel board that
allows you to control the unit. Rotary
encoder RE1 and pushbutton S1
connect back to the control module via
CON20. S2 is only required if you use
a rotary encoder without an internal
switch. The capacitors debounce the
rotary encoder signals.
But we think this compromise is OK, as the error from
using the plugs and sockets is small.
Incidentally, the thermocouple amplifier we used has a
purple PCB. If you search ebay or AliExpress for “AD8495”,
then you should be able to find one which looks like ours.
Note though that some of these devices come with the
wrong reference voltage; we’ll explain later how to fix that
if it happens.
We want a board that uses a 1.25V offset for 0°C. If yours
is 2.5V instead, it will not work. The simple fix for this is
short the AD8495 reference pin (pin 2) to ground (pin 3),
effectively making the reference 0V.
The SSR
We used an Altronics S4416A solid state relay, rated at
40A. This is ideal, although a 20A mains-rated SSR would
theoretically be sufficient.
The other thing to check for is to make sure that your
SSR (like the Altronics one) will work with a 3.0-3.6V control voltage. Our PIC will drive it with a nominal 3.3V DC
to switch it on.
The controller
The controller is based the same 32-bit PIC microcontroller board, LCD screen and set of controls that we used
previously in a couple of projects.
The front panel components (as per the circuit of
Fig.3) ready for assembly into the case as seen earlier.
30
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Namely, these are the DSP Active Crossover and 8-channel Parametric Equaliser (May-July 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/335) and Low Distortion DDS Signal Generator
(February 2020; siliconchip.com.au/Article/12341).
The controller module is a lot more powerful than needed, but takes advantage of the graphical user interface (GUI)
that I already created for those projects, along with other
storage and control code.
So it saved a lot of development time, and you at least
get a nice user interface.
To this, I added a K-type thermocouple amplifier I bought
from ebay for less than $10 including delivery, along with
a 40A solid state relay (SSR).
With these few additions, we have ourselves the makings of a pretty capable oven controller.
The CPU board circuit is shown in Fig.2. We won’t describe this in great detail, partly because we already described it in the June 2019 issue (starting on page 77) but
mostly because, despite appearances, it’s relatively simple.
It consists mainly of microcontroller IC11, two crystal
oscillator circuits, an EEPROM chip, a simple power supply and a bunch of connectors for routing signals.
The main change is in the firmware, which has been
modified to implement the temperature control loop and
to provide a real-time display of the temperature profile
achieved.
The overall function of the resulting controller is simple. In operation mode, the microcontroller reads the temperature about 10 times a second, and averages this over
half a second.
Every half-second, the PID control parameters are updated and the controller decides whether to switch the
oven on or off.
See the accompanying panel for a description on how
PID temperature control works.
In setup mode, you can save the settings, alter the PID
330
CON5
K
10 F
The first job is to assemble the PIC32 microcontroller
module. Its PCB overlay diagram is shown in Fig.4. Use this
as a guide to which parts go where on the 60.5 x 62.5mm
PCB, which is coded 01106193.
Start with IC11, the 64-pin SMD microcontroller (it
sure would be handy to have a reflow oven at this stage,
DSP SPI1
LK1
8MHz
LK2
470 F
1
* BOTH CAPS UNDER PCB
OR LAID OVER ON TOP SIDE
CON6
20 19
47
47
2
1
47
+7VDC
Fig.4: use this diagram as a guide when
assembling the control board. It’s easiest
to fit the SMDs first, starting with the ICs.
Watch the orientation of the ICs, diodes,
electrolytic capacitors and regulators.
Some components are not required for
this application, including CON6, CON7,
CON9 and CON12.
siliconchip.com.au
Construction
V2.0, 2019-03-27
User interface PIC32MZ DSP
S1
GRAPHICAL LCD
LED
2
D16
+
GND
REG2
A
1
CON8
D14
FB12
X2
ALPHA LCD
100nF
390 10 F
1.2k
20pF
GND
470
20pF
330
10 F
CON23 ICSP
1
470 SD04
100nF
560VR1 10k
100nF
10 F
1
CON10
IC11
PIC32MZ
2048
EFH064
10k 100
100nF
RDO
X1
100nF 32768Hz
100nF
REG3
PORTB
20pF100nF
20pF20pF
20pF
100nF
PORTE
D15
10 F –I/SN IC12
CON12
100nF
100nF
1
CON11
1
parameters, set the temperatures for heat soak and reflow,
or set the thermocouple temperature coefficient and offset.
Fig.3 shows what’s on the front panel control board that
connects to the CPU board via a ribbon cable. Rotary encoder RE1 (with integral switch) and switch S1 allow the
user to step through menus, select options and alter values.
Switch S2 is only needed if an encoder is used without
an internal switch.
The capacitors are for debouncing while the resistors,
two of which are omitted, tell the CPU what type of encoder was used.
CON7
25AA256
1k
100nF
SPI2/I2S
JP5
1k
VEE
CON9
1
The
assembled
control board,
ready for installing
in the case. As noted
below, some connectors are
not used in this project.
S2
RE2
SILICON
CHIP
22nF*
22nF*
4.7k
4.7k
4.7k
4.7k
R4
R2
R1
R3
1
RE1
01106195 RevB
CON20
(UNDER)
DSP Crossover front panel board
Fig.5: the front panel PCB. Note that only one of RE1 (Jaycar SR1230)
or RE2 (Altronics S3350) is fitted and in the case where RE1 is used,
pushbutton S2 is redundant and may be left off. Also, if RE1 is fitted, fit
resistors R2 and R3; if RE2 is fitted, fit resistors R1 and R4.
SILICON CON21
Fig.6: this small adaptor board
CHIP
converts the SIL header on the LCD
(UNDER) 1
screen to a DIL header for connecting 1 CON22
to an IDC ribbon cable. The connectors are mounted on opposite sides;
make sure the pin 1 connection at both ends is at the same end, as shown.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 31
Parts list – Reflow Oven Conversion
1 260 x 190 x 80mm plastic instrument case [Altronics H0482]
1 200 x 115mm sheet of 1.5mm-thick aluminium
1 205 x 185mm sheet of Presspahn or similar [Jaycar HG9985]
1 K-type thermocouple with banana plugs [Jaycar QM1284]
1 AD8495-based K-type thermocouple interface with purple PCB
[eBay/AliExpress]
1 populated PIC32MZ CPU board - see below
1 populated front panel control board - see below
1 128 x 64 pixel graphical LCD with 20-pin connector
1 10A dual (male/female) chassis-mount IEC power connector
[Altronics P8330A]
1 9V DC 2/3A regulated plugpack with 2.1mm inner diameter
plug [Altronics M8923]
1 2.1mm inner diameter chassis-mount barrel socket
[Altronics P0628]
1 red binding post/banana socket
[Altronics P9252, Jaycar PT0453]
1 black binding post/banana socket
[Altronics P9254, Jaycar PT0454]
1 double-sided PCB, coded 01106196, 51 x 13mm
1 40A 24-240VAC solid-state relay (SSR1) [Altronics S4416A]
1 SPST, SPDT or DPDT 12V DC, 1A toggle switch (main power
switch)
1 IEC C14 male to 3-pin mains socket [Jaycar PS4100]
1 IEC mains power cable [Jaycar PS4106]
1 15x2 pin header
1 20-pin header
2 20-pin IDC line plugs
3 10-pin IDC line plugs
1 small tube of neutral-cure silicone sealant
1 small tube of heatsink (thermal) paste
Cables & hardware
4 M3-tapped 15mm Nylon standoffs
8 M3-tapped 10mm Nylon standoffs
25 M3 x 15mm panhead machine screws
25 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
25 M3 star/lock washers
10 M3 hex nuts
8 5mm red eyelet crimp connectors
[Altronics H2041A]
1 20cm length of three-core 10A mains flex
1 50cm length of red light-duty hookup wire
1 30cm length of black light-duty hookup wire
1 30cm length of green light-duty hookup wire
1 25cm length of 20-way ribbon cable
2 25cm lengths of 10-way ribbon cable
1 6cm length of 40-50mm diameter clear heatshrink tubing
wouldn’t it!). Make very sure that it is orientated correctly
before soldering its leads.
You can purchase this micro pre-programmed with the
software for this project (2910420A.HEX) from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP. Otherwise, the required HEX file is
available for download from our website.
So if needed, you can program the PIC using a PICKit 3
programmer once the board has been assembled (see Fig.10
for the slightly unusual wiring required).
Tack down a couple of pins and make sure that all of its
pins are correctly located over their pads before applying
32
Silicon Chip
1 50cm length of 10mm diameter clear heatshrink tubing
1 30cm length of 8mm diameter clear heatshrink tubing
cable ties as required
PIC32MZ CPU board parts
1 double-sided PCB coded 01106193, 60.5 x 62.5mm
1 2-way mini terminal block, 5.08mm spacing (CON5)
5 5x2 pin headers (CON7,CON9-CON11,CON23)
1 10x2 pin header (CON8)
2 3-pin headers (LK1,LK2)
1 2-pin header (JP5)
3 shorting blocks (LK1,LK2,JP5)
1 ferrite bead (FB12)
1 32768Hz watch crystal (X1)
1 miniature 8MHz crystal (X2) OR
1 standard 8MHz crystal with insulating washer (X2)
1 10kΩ vertical trimpot (VR1)
1 TO-220 flag heatsink (for REG2) [Altronics H0630]
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MZ2048EFH064-250I/PT 32-bit microcontroller
programmed with 2910420A.HEX, TQFP-64 (IC11)
1 25AA256-I/SN 32KB I2C EEPROM, SOIC-8 (IC12)
1 LD1117V adjustable 800mA LDO regulator, TO-220 (REG2)
1 LM317T adjustable 1A regulator, TO-220 (REG3)
1 blue SMD LED, SMA or SMB (LED2)
3 LL5819 SMD 1A 40V schottky diodes, MELF (MLB)
(D14-D16)
Capacitors
1 470µF 10V electrolytic
5 10µF 50V electrolytic
11 100nF SMD 2012/0805 50V X7R
4 20pF SMD 2012/0805 50V C0G/NP0
Resistors (all SMD 2012/0805 1%)
1 10kΩ
1 1.2kΩ 2 1kΩ
2 470Ω
1 390Ω
2 330Ω
1 100Ω 3 47Ω
1 560Ω
Front panel control board parts
1 double-sided PCB coded 01106195, 107.5 x 32.5mm
1 5x2 pin header (CON20)
2 4.7kΩ 1/4W through-hole resistors
2 22nF through-hole ceramic capacitors
2 PCB-mount snap-action momentary pushbuttons (S1,S2)*
[Jaycar SP0721, Altronics S1096]
1 3-pin rotary encoder (RE1/RE2) [eg, Altronics S3350 or
Jaycar SR1230 with integrated pushbutton]
1 knob (to suit RE1/RE2)
* only one required if using Jaycar SR1230 encoder
flux paste and soldering the rest. Solder bridges are almost
inevitable if hand-soldering, but these can be cleaned up
with the application of more flux paste and some solder
wick. Follow with the other SMDs, making sure that IC12
and the diodes are orientated correctly.
You don’t need to fit CON6 for this project.
Next, fit the through-hole components; don’t get REG2
and REG3 mixed up and note that REG2 now has a small
flag heatsink fitted. When mounting X2, if there is any
chance of the bottom of its metal package shorting to components below, fit an insulating washer underneath. CON12
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Dimensioned diagrams for drilling this plate, the front and rear panels and drilling/cutting the Presspahn safety shield
can all be downloaded from www.siliconchip.com.au
can be left off.
You can now move onto building the front panel control
board. Its overlay diagram is shown in Fig.5. The PCB is
coded 01106195 and measures 107.5 x 32.5mm.
There isn’t a lot to assembling it; if you’re using the recommended Jaycar SR1230 rotary encoder, besides that
part, you just need one pushbutton (S1), two capacitors,
two resistors (R2 & R3) and header CON20. The capacitors and CON20 are mounted on the underside, with the
caps laid over.
Now is also a good time to solder the two headers to the
small board coded 01106196 which measures 51 x 13mm,
shown in Fig.6. The SIL header goes on one side and the
DIL header on the other. Then solder its SIL header to the
LCD module, with this board mounted on the back.
Next, make up the two ribbon cables. One has 20 wires,
and one has 10 wires. They are the same length; see Fig.7 for
details. Cut each section of the ribbon cable to length, leaving
around 5cm extra in each case for crimping to the connectors.
You can strip these cables out of ribbon cables with more
wires, by making a small cut between two wires and then
separating the sections by pulling them apart.
It’s best to use a dedicated IDC crimping tool for this
job, such as Altronics T1540. You can use a vice, but you
have to be careful to avoid crushing and breaking the plastic IDC connectors.
Each connector has three parts: the bottom part, which
has the metal blades that cut into the ribbon cable; the middle part, which clamps the cable down onto these; and a
locking bar at the top that holds it all together once it has
been crimped.
Note how, as shown in Fig.7, the cable passes between
the locking bar and upper part before folding over on the
outside edge and then being crimped underneath.
So with this in mind, slightly separate the three pieces
without actually taking them apart, and feed the ribbon
cable through as shown.
Ensure there is enough “meat” for the metal blades to cut
into, then place it into your crimping tool or vice without
allowing the cable to fall out.
Clamp the three pieces together, gently at first, then more
firmly. The trick is to crimp it hard enough to ensure that
the blades cut fully through the insulation and make good
contact with the copper wires, without pressing so hard
that you break the plastic.
If using a vice, it’s best to wedge a piece of cardboard between each end of the connector and the vice, to provide
some cushioning.
Once you’ve crimped a connector at one end of the cable, do the one at the other end, making sure that when
you’re finished, the locating spigots will both be facing in
the same direction.
In the second and final part of this project, which will
appear in our May issue, we’ll cover the steps involved in
putting the controller in a case and safely checking that all
is operating correctly.
We’ll also have a list of troubleshooting suggestions in
the unlikely even that you cannot get your controller to
. . . control!
But in the meantime, you can gather all the components,
PCBs and everything else you need.
SC
Don’t forget the oven!
LOCATING SPIGOT UNDER
1 0 -WAY
IDC
SOCKET
1 0 -WAY
IDC
SOCKET
1x200mm 1 0-WAY IDC RIBBON CABLE
CABLE EDGE STRIPE
LOCATING SPIGOT UNDER
20-WAY
IDC
SOCKET
20-WAY
IDC
SOCKET
1x200mm 20-WAY IDC RIBBON CABLE
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: you need to make two ribbon
cables: one to connect the front
panel to the CPU board, and the
other to connect the LCD. Note the
orientation of the connector tabs,
so that pin 1 is aligned with the red
stripe at both ends. Make sure the
IDC blades are pressed down hard
enough to fully pierce the insulation
and make good contact, but not so
hard that you crack the plastic!
CABLE EDGE STRIPE
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 33
A 900MHz Touchscreen
Vector Network Analyser
for less than $60.00?
It wasn’t long ago that a Vector Network Analyser (VNA) would cost
as much as a car, or more. But now you can buy one for peanuts:
this one was under $AU55 delivered! In case you don’t know, a
VNA can be used to test and analyse antennas, transmission lines,
filter networks and other RF-related passive networks. So it’s a very
useful instrument to have if you are doing any RF work at all.
T
his little device was only released recently, but it already
has countless fans, umpteen
discussion groups and hours of YouTube videos showing how to use it – by
people from novices to super experts.
The NanoVNA is available from
many sellers on ebay and AliExpress,
so as long as you are willing
to wait a little while for it
to arrive from China, it isn’t
hard to purchase your very
own VNA.
By the way, VNAs aren’t
just useful for radio engineers. High-speed digital
buses can have very high
edge rates that translate into
frequency components in the
multi-GHz range.
So a good VNA can be used to
characterise such buses, assuming
you know how to use it!
As the name suggests, the
NanoVNA is small, measuring
just 85 x 54 x 16mm and weighing
73.5g. It’s powered by an internal 400mAh lithium-polymer battery
that’s recharged from a 5V USB source,
and has a colour touchscreen interface
and two SMA connectors for interfacing to the outside world.
The only other adornments are an
on/off slide switch and left/right ‘joy-
stick’ pushbutton for control.
Ours came with three SMA terminators: open, closed and 50Ω, plus a
USB Type-C cable for charging the internal battery and for connecting to a
computer. The SMA terminators are
required to calibrate it, and this
there were quite a few holdouts still
using type-B connectors until recently, and plenty of random devices still
use the B types.
Is this a harbinger that type-C connectors are becoming more standard
now?
Anyway, for some handy Joe Smith
tips regarding the physical
handling, calibration and connecting to USB software, see
this video: https://youtu.be/
mKi6s3WvBAM
What is a VNA?
should be done regularly. Some sellers
also include a short SMA cable, but
ours didn’t come with one.
As an aside, this is one of the first
‘el cheapo’ devices we’ve seen with a
USB type-C micro socket on it.
This has been the ‘new standard’ for
smartphones for some time now, but
Vector Network Analysers are
one of the predominant lab/field
instruments used for RF and microwave design purposes.
They are ideally used to test
the response of DUTs (devices
under test) as a function of frequency.
Fig.1 shows the basic arrangement of a VNA. It applies a swept
frequency signal source to one
end of the DUT, and measures
the amplitude and phase of the signals
at both ends of the DUT relative to a
separate fixed reference signal source
(the “local oscillator”).
These measurements are often made
by mixing the local oscillator and test
signals to get a sum and difference
Review By Allan Linton-Smith
34
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
signal, then feeding this through a
low-pass filter to isolate the difference signal.
The resulting signal (which is much
lower in frequency) then goes to an
analog-to-digital converter.
By using three such receivers, and
digital signal processing, the VNA can
measure the amplitude and phase of
the original, transmitted and reflected signals and thus fully characterise
the DUT.
The DUT can be a passive or active
device. Examples of passive devices
that can be tested by a VNA are cables,
filters, splitters, connectors, couplers
and antennas. Active devices for testing this way can be RF amplifiers, RF
filters and semiconductors.
The NanoVNA is basically a sweep
generator which can measure the reflected signal and calculate the amplitude, phase, standing wave ratio
(SWR), impedance, capacitance and
inductance all at the same time!
The primary signal from the internal sweep generator output is fed to
the DUT, and the reflected signal is
compared to the transmitted signal.
The power ratios (actually, their
square roots) vs frequency are then
processed. Much information can be
obtained from the results, including:
• losses (such as cable and antenna
losses)
• standing wave ratios
• impedance (at very high frequencies)
siliconchip.com.au
A OR B SIGNALS
FROM DIRECTIONAL
DEVICES
MIXER
DIGITAL SIGNAL
PROCESSOR
LOW-PASS
FILTER
ANALOG
TO DIGITAL
CONVERTER
LOCAL
OSCILLATOR
SC
GENERIC VNA RECEIVER BLOCK DIAGRAM
SIGNAL
SOURCE
2020
DIRECTIONAL
COUPLER
DIRECTIONAL
COUPLER
TEST
PORT 1
TEST 1
REFERENCE
MIXER
MIXER
ADC
IF
AMP
ADC
IF
AMP
LOCAL
OSCILLATOR
IF
AMP
TEST 2
ADC
TEST
PORT 2
MIXER
TRANSMISSION/REFLECTION VNA BLOCK DIAGRAM
SC
2020
Fig.1: an overview of how a typical VNA works. The receiver block at
top is repeated three times in the diagram below (dashed red outlines), to
measure the test signal and the signals at either end of the DUT relative
to a common reference signal (local oscillator). A digital signal processor
(DSP) crunches the numbers from these three receivers to generate useful
plots which describe the RF behaviour of the DUT.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 35
Fig.2: this plot shows out the signal generator built into the NanoVNA cannot
deliver anywhere near as much amplitude over the 300-900MHz range as
compared to the 54-300MHz range. So measurements made above 300MHz
will likely contain a lot more noise than those at lower frequencies.
• capacitance
• inductance
• phase information
This is all highly useful to designers of RF circuits, antennas and HF or
microwave devices. The low cost of
this particular unit finally makes such
tests easily accessible to amateurs and
experimenters.
VNAs can also be useful test instruments for tracking down faults and,
as we discovered, it can also double
as an accurate and convenient RF frequency generator.
The NanoVNA manufacturer claims
that it makes these measurements at
up to 900MHz, although it really is
only fully effective to 300MHz, as we
shall demonstrate.
One of the disadvantages of the VNA
is that it makes all measurements in
the frequency domain, unlike an oscilloscope, which measures in the
time domain.
So the information gleaned from the
VNA must often be translated into the
time domain to be useful.
signal level is still high enough to give
useful qualitative information up to
900MHz.
This plot was obtained by feeding
the NanoVNA’s output into a spectrum
analyser which was set to “maximum
hold”, thus memorising a succession
of all the maximum points.
The roughness of the graph from
300-897MHz is merely an artefact
where the analyser sweep has not
coincided with the generator sweep,
because the analyser sweep is much
slower (66ms).
Due to the number of points and the
sweep time, this measurement took
several hours to make!
You can use the NanoVNA as a reasonable accurate frequency generator.
Fig.3 shows a spectrum analysis of the
unit’s output when set to 250MHz;
we measured a peak noise reading of
-115dBm at an offset of 100kHz offset
from 250MHz fundamental.
This noise level is quite acceptable, being around 100dB below the
signal level.
To set it up for a fixed frequency output like this, you merely set identical
start and stop frequencies, or select a
single frequency from the menu.
As shown in Fig.4, we detected signals up to around 1.2GHz, which are
the harmonics of lower frequencies
when the NanoVNA was set to sweep
over its full range. -4.91dBm at 1.2GHz
is 127mV into 50Ω.
Some sellers are charging upwards
of 5x the price for Nanos which have
supposedly been extended to 1GHz,
so look out!
Conclusion
While the NanoVNA has some limitations compared to a multi-thousanddollar instrument, it is nonetheless a
Tests
Fig.2 shows our measurement of the
output signal level from the NanoVNA generator over the range of 54897MHz. The output is not linear and
drops significantly, by about 9-11dB,
above 300MHz. We believe that the
36
Silicon Chip
Fig.3: a spectrum analysis of the test signal fixed at 250MHz. This indicates
that the test signal is very clean, with noise levels around 100dB below the
signal itself. So it could be quite useful just as an RF signal generator.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
very useful device. Anyone working
with RF circuitry or antennas will
likely find it well worthwhile, especially considering the price.
It helps to be aware of its limitations
to make full use of it; you will likely
also have to do a fair bit of reading on
the operation of VNAs to understand
which modes to use and how to interpret the rather esoteric information
and graphs displayed!
Even if you only need a VNA occasionally, for little more than the price
of a nice dinner, it’s hard to argue that
the NanoVNA is not good value.
You might as well get one ‘just in
case’ you never need it...
You may find the following links
useful.
* Beginners’ guide: siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab0f
* A video that would be useful to
amateur enthusiasts: https://youtu.
be/8kx9SWbEcXI
* A complete guide to and mathematical explanations of VNA operation: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0g
(or purchase the complete book, “The
VNA Applications Handbook”).
SC
Fig.4: this plot shows spurious signals in the 900-1200MHz range, generated
during a sweep across its normal 54-900MHz test range. These are
presumably from test signal harmonics. So the device may not be very useful
above 900MHz, even if it could generate test signals that high.
AUSTRALIA’S OWN
M I CR O M I T E
TOUCHSCREEN
Since its introduction in February
2016, Geoff Graham’s mighty
Micromite BackPack has proved
to be one of the most versatile,
most economical and easiest-to-use systems available – not only here in Australia but around the world!
Now there’s the V3 BackPack – it can be plugged straight into a computer USB for easy programming or re-programming –
YES, you can use the Micromite over and over again, for published projects, or for you to develop your own masterpiece!
BACKPACK
The Micromite’s BackPack colour touchscreen can be programmed for any of the following SILICON CHIP projects:
Many of the
HARD-TO-GET
PARTS for
these
projects are
available
from the
SILICON CHIP
Online Shop
(siliconchip.
com.au/shop)
Poor Air Quality Monitor (Feb20 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/12337)
GPS-Synched Frequency Reference (Oct18 – siliconchip.com.au/Series/326)
FREE
Tariff Super Clock (Jul18 – siliconchip.com.au/Article11137)
PROGRAMM
Altimeter & Weather Station (Dec17 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/10898)
ING
Buy either
tell us whichV2 or V3 BackPack,
Radio IF Alignment (Sep17– siliconchip.com.au/Article/10799)
for and we’ll project you want it
Deluxe eFuse (Jul17 – siliconchip.com.au/Series/315)
program it fo
r you,
FREE OF C
DDS Signal Generator (Apr17 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/10616)
HARGE!
Voltage/Current Reference (Oct16 – siliconchip.com.au/Series/305)
Energy Meter (Aug16 – siliconchip.com.au/Series/302)
Super Clock (Jul16 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/9887)
Micromite
Boat Computer (Apr16 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/9977)
V
3
BackPack:
Ultrasonic Parking Assistant (Mar16 – siliconchip.com.au/Article/9848)
*
JUST $7500
See August 2019 (Article 11764)
P&P: Flat $10 PER ORDER (within Australia)
*P
Price is for the Micromite BackPack only;
not for the projects listed.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 37
By John Clarke
7-Band
Stereo
Stereo
These stereo or mono 7-Band Equalisers let you tailor the sound of
your listening experience to suit your preferences. They can also be
used to correct for room acoustics and deviations in loudspeaker
response. The stereo version suits hifi systems, while the mono version
is best for musical instruments or PA systems. Both feature extremely
low noise and distortion, so they won’t degrade your signal.
W
e published a 5-Band Equaliser way back in December 1995 that was intended for musicians,
which could be installed within an amplifier. That
design was so popular that it is still sold as a kit by Altronics (Cat K5305) to this day – a quarter of a century later!!
While we published an excellent 10-Band Stereo Graphic
Equaliser much more recently, in the June & July 2017 issues (siliconchip.com.au/Series/313), that design is considerably more complex and more expensive to build.
And the slide pots do not lend themselves to being fitted
+20
7-Band Equaliser Frequency Response
into an existing amplifier. Besides, for musical instrument
use, you generally don’t need the stereo function.
Hence, we decided to come up with a new design, similar to the one from December 1995 but modernised and upgraded. We’ve added two more bands, giving finer control
over the sound, and while we were at it, we also designed
a stereo version. We are still using similar rotary pots,
making it easy to mount in an existing amplifier (provided
there is space). As a bonus, they’re cheaper than slide pots.
We’ve also made the power supply much more flexible,
26/01/20 13:01:58
.01
+10
+5
0
-5
-10
20
50
100
200
500 1k
2k
Frequency (Hz)
5k
10k
20k
Fig.1: the blue curve shows the frequency response with all
controls set to the centre position,
with a flat response across
Fig.1
the 20Hz to 20kHz band. The red and green curves show the
response with all pots in the maximum boost setting (red) and
with all pots in the maximum cut setting (green). Finally, the
purple and orange curves show the response with alternate
full cut and full boost between each band.
38
.002
.001
.0005
.0002
-15
-20
26/01/20 14:28:22
2V stereo (L) 22kHz bandwidth
2V stereo (R) 22kHz bandwidth
2V mono 22kHz bandwidth
2V mono 80kHz bandwidth
1V mono 80kHz bandwidth
.005
Total Harmonic Distortion (%)
Relative Amplitude (dBr)
+15
7-Band Equaliser THD vs Frequency
Silicon Chip
.0001
20
50
100
200
500 1k
2k
Frequency (Hz)
5k
10k
20k
Fig.2: the harmonic distortion performance is excellent
with less than 0.0006% distortion
at 2V from 20Hz to 20kHz
Fig.2
measured with a 22kHz low pass filter. Even with an 80kHz
filter, distortion does not rise above 0.001% for a 2V signal.
Noise was measured at 108dB down with 2V as a reference
level. The 0.0005% distortion means that the noise and
distortion measured is -106dB down in level from 2V.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Mono or
Equaliser
so it can run from 15-16V AC, 30V AC with a centre tap,
18-20V DC or a regulated source of ±15V DC. Plus we have
considerably improved the performance, giving it extremely low noise and distortion figures.
Having different versions of the PCB for mono and stereo makes it easier to construct the version you want, and
keeps the mono version as small as possible, keeping in
mind the limited space that may be available for it to fit into.
Perhaps surprisingly, the mono version of this 7-band
equaliser, at 143 x 63.5mm, is smaller than the original
-0
7-Band Equaliser Channel Separation
26/01/20 14:59:13
-10
Relative Amplitude (dBr)
-20
-30
left-to-right coupling
right-to-left coupling
-40
-50
-60
-70
-80
-90
-100
20
50
100
200
500 1k
2k
Frequency (Hz)
5k
10k 20k
Fig.3: channel separation between
Fig.3left to right channel
(blue) and right to left channels (red) show that separation
is worse for the left to right coupling as frequency rises.
These graphs are for the stereo version only. Separation
figures obviously do not apply with the mono version.
siliconchip.com.au
5-band version, which used a PCB that measured 167 x
65mm.
We’re presenting both versions of the 7-band equaliser
as bare PCBs. All the components mount onto these PCBs,
including the input and output RCA sockets; you just need
to organise a case and power supply.
Typical applications
The stereo version of our new Equaliser can be connected
to an amplifier or receiver in several ways. First, it can be
connected in the “Tape Monitor” loop that’s still provided
on many amplifiers and receivers.
Alternatively, the equaliser may be connected between
the preamplifier and power amplifier. Some home theatre
stereo receivers include preamp output and power amp
input connectors for this purpose.
If you’re using a separate preamp or input switcher, then
the equaliser can be interposed between it and the power
amplifier.
Or, if you only have a single sound source that has a
nominal line level output level (anywhere between 500mV
and 2V RMS), the equaliser input can be connected to that
source output and preamplifier/amplifier input.
For sound reinforcement use, you can connect the equaliser between the sound mixer output and amplifier input.
In that case, you may need to add balanced-to-unbalanced
and/or unbalanced-to-balanced converters on each channel. We published suitable designs for this in the June 2008
issue; see siliconchip.com.au/l/aacv
Performance
The overall performance is summarised in the Features
& specifications panel and Figs.1-3. Its signal-to-noise ratio
for a 2V RMS input is excellent at 108dB, and the distortion
curves show that there is virtually no harmonic distortion
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 39
STEREO
LEFT INPUT:
CON1
STEREO
RIGHT INPUT:
CON3
MONO INPUT:
CON1
L1 L2
470nF
STEREO LEFT IC9a
STEREO RIGHT IC8b
MONO: IC5b
1k
5 (3)
OPA1642
8
10k
7 (1)
FERRITE
BEAD
100k
6 (2)
100pF
4
STEREO: 9 x 100nF CERAMIC CAPS
(ONE BETWEEN PINS 8 & 4 OF IC1 – IC9)
MONO: 5 x 100nF CERAMIC CAPS
(ONE BETWEEN PINS 8 & 4 OF IC1 – IC5)
100pF
(NOTE: SIGNAL CIRCUITRY SHOWN ONLY FOR MONO
VERSION [GREEN] AND LEFT CHANNEL [BLUE];
COMPONENTS FOR RIGHT CHANNEL SHOWN IN RED)
BOOST
L: VR1a
R: VR1b
M: VR1
50k
CUT
1 F
270nF
470nF
1.8k
V+
22nF
5 (3)
6 (2)
CUT
33nF
7 (1)
2 (6)
100nF
1 (7)
6 (2)
STEREO LEFT IC1b
STEREO RIGHT IC1a
MONO IC1b
Silicon Chip
2 (6)
91k
BOOST
L: VR4a
R: VR4b
M: VR4
50k
CUT
33nF
1.8k
V+
7 (1)
STEREO LEFT IC3b
STEREO RIGHT IC3a
MONO IC2b
1 (7)
6 (2)
8
LM833
7 (1)
4
V–
V–
2.5kHz
1kHz
82k
L: VR5a
R: VR5b
M: VR5
V+
5 (3)
8
LM833
10
1.8k
1nF
4
410Hz
STEREO LEFT IC4b
STEREO RIGHT IC4a
MONO IC3a
68k
STEREO LEFT IC5b
STEREO RIGHT IC5a
MONO IC3b
Fig.4: the circuit for the mono version, minus the power supply (shown
overleaf). The stereo version essentially duplicates all the parts for the
second channel, except for the shared power supply and the use of dualgang potentiometers in place of single-gang. Green labels apply to the mono
version, blue to the left channel portion of the stereo version and red, to
present; the THD+N figures are consistent with pure noise.
Fig.1 has several coloured response curves which show
what you can do with the controls. The blue curve shows
the frequency with all controls set to the centre position,
giving a ruler flat response over the audio band of 20Hz
to 20kHz (it’s tough to get it precisely flat due to pot variances, hence the slight amount of ripple visible).
The red and green curves show the response with all
potentiometers in the maximum boost and cut settings,
respectively. The mauve and orange curves show the response with the potentiometers alternately set for maximum
boost and cut; these show the effective width of each band.
Note that you would never use an equaliser in these extreme settings as the result would sound very strange. Instead, you usually use comparatively small boost or cut
settings.
For example, if your loudspeakers are a touch too bright
in the 6kHz region, you might apply a couple of decibels
of cut to the respective potentiometer. Or if you wanted
to lift the bass response at around 60Hz, you could apply
some amount of boost on the 63Hz band and get a much
more subtle effect than would be possible with a conventional bass control.
The Equaliser’s overall performance is far beyond CDquality audio. Fig.2 demonstrates that the harmonic distor40
12nF
V–
160Hz
7-BAND GRAPHIC EQUALISER
CUT
3 (5)
4
STEREO LEFT IC2b
STEREO RIGHT IC2a
MONO IC2a
50k
2.2nF
8
LM833
V–
110k
BOOST
68nF
1.8k
V+
4
63Hz
SC
CUT
4.7nF
8
LM833
L: VR3a
R: VR3b
M: VR3
50k
5 (3)
V–
2020
BOOST
100nF
1.8k
V+
3 (5)
4
130k
L: VR2a
R: VR2b
M: VR2
50k
10nF
8
LM833
BOOST
100nF
100nF
100nF
100nF
V+
V+
V+
V+
tion performance is limited by the residual noise “floor” of
the crucial gain stage in the circuit; that of IC9b and IC8a
for the stereo version and IC5a in the mono version. With
a realistic bandwidth of 20Hz-22kHz, the THD+N level is
below 0.0006% for all audible frequencies.
Even with 80kHz measurement bandwidth, there is virtually no rise in distortion at higher frequencies. While the
plot does seem to have a small rise up to 0.001% at 20kHz,
other measurements we’ve taken under similar circumstances did not have such a rise, so we think it is probably
a measurement artefact.
Suffice to say that the harmonic distortion introduced
by this circuit is so far below that from a typical CD, DVD,
Blu-ray or computer source that it will not adversely affect
the sound quality of signals from such sources.
Finally, Fig.3 shows the channel separation for the stereo version of the equaliser. It exceeds 50dB at all frequencies and for both channels, and is at least 80dB for signals
up to 1kHz.
Circuit details
Fig.4 shows the circuit of our 7-Band Equaliser. This
is the complete circuit for the mono version, minus the
power supply. The stereo version essentially duplicates
all the parts for the second channel, except for the shared
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
V+
STEREO LEFT IC9b
STEREO RIGHT IC8a OPA1642
MONO IC5a
3 (5)
STEREO LEFT
OUTPUT: CON2
STEREO RIGHT
OUTPUT: CON4
MONO
OUTPUT:
CON2
1 F
470
1 (7)
1 F
2 (6)
1M
10k
1nF
8
V–
BOOST
50k
CUT
BOOST
L: VR6a
R: VR6b
M: VR6
CUT
4.7nF
V+
5 (3)
6 (2)
8
LM833
V–
V–
16kHz
6.2kHz
62k
7 (1)
4
4
STEREO LEFT IC6b
STEREO RIGHT IC6a
MONO IC4a
51k
STEREO LEFT IC7b
STEREO RIGHT IC7a
MONO IC4b
the right channel portion of the stereo version. Similarly, red
pin numbers are for the right channel; the black pin number
applies to the left channel and the mono version. Numbers in
blue brackets are for the left channel, with the number for the
mono version and right channel of the stereo version in black.
power supply and the use of dual-gang potentiometers in
place of single-gang.
Labels in green apply to the mono version, in blue to the
left channel portion of the stereo version and in red, to the
right channel portion of the stereo version.
When pin numbers are in red brackets, that is for the
right channel and the black pin number applies to the left
channel and the mono version. Numbers in blue brackets are for the left channel, with the number for the mono
version and right channel of the stereo version in black.
We have used dual low-noise/low-distortion LM833
op amps for the gyrators (described below). These have a
noise level of 4.5nV÷√Hz and very low distortion. These
op amps use bipolar input transistors, with a typical input
bias current of 500nA (1µA maximum). While this is not a
problem for the gyrator circuits, as they are AC-coupled to
the rest of the circuit, it is too high for the main signal path.
That’s because, if such a current were to flow through the
adjustment potentiometers, they could produce a noticeable scratching noise when rotated. So for the main signal
path op amps (IC5 for the mono version and IC8/IC9 for
the stereo version), we are using OPA1642 op amps which
have JFET input transistors.
These have an ultra-low-distortion specification of
0.00005%, low noise at 5.1nV÷√Hz and a 2pA typical (20pA
siliconchip.com.au
Supply options: 15-16V AC, 15-0-15V AC, 12-24V DC, ±15V DC
Channel separation (stereo version): >50dB, 20Hz-20kHz
(880dB 20Hz-1kHz)
1.8k
V+
1 (7)
Output impedance: 470Ω
Other features: compact design, uses rotary pots for easy
panel mounting
220pF
8
LM833
L: VR7a
R: VR7b
M: VR7
50k
1.8k
470pF
2 (6)
Boost/cut: approximately ±12.5dB (bands overlap; see Fig.1)
Input impedance: 100kΩ || 100pF
4
1
3 (5)
Equaliser bands: seven (63Hz, 160Hz, 410Hz, 1kHz, 2.5kHz,
6.2kHz, 16kHz)
Total harmonic distortion: <0.0006%, 20Hz-20kHz, 20Hz22kHz bandwidth (see Fig.2)
10
2.2nF
Channels: one (mono) or two (stereo)
Signal-to-noise ratio: 108dB (2V RMS), 102dB (1V RMS)
100pF
10nF
Features & specifications
maximum) input bias current. So their input bias current
is typically 250,000 times less than the LM833s.
The following description is for the mono version, but the
operation of the two channels in the stereo version is identical. The incoming signal is applied to RCA socket CON1.
It passes through an RF-suppressing ferrite bead (L1) and
is then AC-coupled to non-inverting input pin 5 of buffer
op amp IC5b. The 1kΩ/100pF RC low-pass filter feeding
that pin is to filter out RF signals that pass through FB1.
This signal is then fed, via another RF-suppression filter, to non-inverting input pin 3 of op amp IC5a. At first
glance, this also appears to be operating as a buffer, albeit with a 10kΩ feedback resistor between its output pin 1
and inverting input (pin 2) rather than a direct connection.
However, there are also seven 50kΩ linear potentiometers (VR1-VR7) connected across the two inputs of IC5a,
and these change its operation.
The wipers of these pots are connected to seven op amp
stages arranged along the bottom of the circuit diagram.
These are all very similar, and are equivalent to seriesresonant LC circuits built around the gyrators mentioned.
There is one for each of the equaliser bands.
An important aid in understanding how this circuit works
is to consider what happens when the pot wipers are centred. Whatever the impedance seen by the wiper in this
case, the effect is divided equally between the two 25kΩ
half-tracks of the pots, and so equally affects the non-inverting and inverting inputs (pins 3 and 2) of IC5a. Therefore, in this case, that particular stage does not affect the
circuit’s behaviour.
It is only when the pot wipers are moved away from
the centre positions that they start having any effect on
the signal.
While we said earlier that these seven circuits are equivalent to tuned LC resonant networks, you will note that
there are no inductors present. That’s because the closetolerance, low-distortion inductors that would be required
for good performance are very expensive and bulky, as well
as being prone to hum pickup.
Therefore, as with virtually all equalisers designed over
the last 50 years or so, we use gyrators instead. The gyrator is an op amp based circuit that simulates an inductor
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 41
IN
10k
OUT
50k
Fig.5: This is the circuit of an
equaliser reduced to its basic
essentials. It shows just one gyrator
connected rather than the whole
seven.
10k
CUT
BOOST
C1
L1
GYRATOR
R2 1.8k
C2
Ic
Iout
Vin
Vin
Ic
R1
Vout
Vout
Fig.6: each gyrator in the circuit is
essentially a capacitor (C2) and op amp
which work together as though they
are an inductor. The accompanying
waveforms show how the current at
VOUT lags VIN in the same way as an
inductor.
and can be connected in series with a
capacitor to provide a resonant circuit.
Series-resonant circuit
To understand how these circuits
work, let’s consider a simplified version of the circuit with just one resonant circuit, as shown in Fig.5. As mentioned earlier, with the pot in its centre
position, the impedance of the series
network (C1+L1) affects both inputs
of the right-hand op amp identically
and so the frequency response is flat.
When the pot wiper moves to the
boost end, more of the feedback from
the output pin to the inverting input is
shunted to ground by the series tuned
circuit at frequencies around its resonance. Since its impedance is high at
all other frequencies, this means that
the feedback is only reduced over the
narrow band centred around the resonance of the series tuned network.
As the feedback at these frequencies
is reduced, the right-hand op amp will
have to compensate by increasing its
output signal swing at those frequen42
Silicon Chip
Iout
cies, to return the feedback voltage to
the same level as usual. So frequencies
in that band will be boosted while others will be unaffected.
When the potentiometer is rotated
towards the cut end, the tuned circuit
instead shunts more of the input signals in its resonant band to ground.
This results in a reduction of gain for
the frequencies at or near the resonance
of the series tuned network
As you would expect, the amount
of boost or cut is proportional to the
potentiometer setting, so intermediate
settings give an intermediate level of
signal boost or cut.
Gyrators
Fig.6 shows the circuit of a gyrator
made with an op amp. It effectively
transforms a capacitor into an inductor. In an inductor, the current lags the
voltage by 90° while in a capacitor, the
voltage lags the current by 90°.
Another way to explain this is that
if you apply a large voltage step across
a capacitor, a very high current flows
Australia’s electronics magazine
initially, tapering off as the capacitor
charges up.
By comparison, if you apply a large
voltage step to an inductor, at first the
current flow remains the same as it was
before, but eventually the current flow
increases as the magnetic field density
increases.
To understand how the gyrator behaves like an inductor, consider an
AC signal source, VIN, connected to
the input of Fig.6. This causes a current to flow through the capacitor and
resistor R1. The voltage across R1 is
thus proportional to the capacitor current. This voltage is fed to the op amp,
which is connected as a voltage follower (or buffer).
The voltage at the output of the op
amp thus tracks the voltage across
R1. This then causes a current to flow
through resistor R2. This current, IOUT,
adds to the input current IC, the sum
of which is the current drawn from the
source and this lags the input voltage.
So as far as the signal source is concerned, the gyrator appears like an inductor.
The formula to calculate the equivalent inductance is L = R1 x R2 x C2
with L in Henries, R1 and R2 in ohms
and C2 in Farads.
Consider the effect of a large voltage step at the input; for example, say
the input rises suddenly by 1V. This is
initially coupled through C2 directly
to the op amp, and so its output also
rises by 1V, keeping the voltage across
R2 the same.
Thus, the current flow from the input changes very little initially.
The current flowing is just the current required to charge C2, and the
value of C2 is typically chosen to minimise this.
As C2 charges, the voltage across R1
drops and so does the op amp output
voltage, causing the current flowing
from the input, through R2, to increase.
As described above, this behaviour is
much the same as if an inductor were
connected instead of the gyrator.
To make the tuned LC circuit shown
in Fig.5, all we need do is to connect a
capacitor (C1) in series with the input
to Fig.6. The result is a circuit with a
dip in its impedance around a specific
frequency. The values in our circuit set
the bandwidth of each circuit to approximately 2.5 octaves.
Back to the Equaliser
So remember that we have one op
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 7815
POWER
A
STEREO CON5
MONO CON3
S1
FUSE
T1
500mA
AC1
15V
K
D1
0V
CT
E
OUT
IN
15V
K
A
K
K
470 F
D4
A
D2
AC2
A
D3
A
GND
25V
220nF
470 F
220nF
25V
10 F
IN
(a) POWER SUPPLY CONFIGURATION WITH A CENTRE-TAPPED TRANSFORMER
K
JP1
1
LED1
2
3.3k
Vcc/2
3.9k
10 F
GND
N
V+
A
JP2
OUT
V–
REG2 7915
REG1 7815
POWER
AC PLUGPACK
S1
STEREO CON5
MONO CON3
AC1
~
~
OUT
IN
K
D1
A
A
0V
470 F
D4
GND
25V
220nF
470 F
220nF
V+
A
10 F
LED1
K
JP1
1
2
3.3k
Vcc/2
K
AC2
25V
IN
(b) POWER SUPPLY CONFIGURATION WITH AN AC PLUGPACK
3.9k
10 F
GND
JP2
OUT
V–
REG2 7915
REG1 7815
STEREO CON5
POWER MONO CON3
S1
A
AC1
DC +
SUPPLY
IN –
OUT
IN
D4
470 F
25V
GND
10 F
220nF
V+
A
K
LED1
1
JP1
2
10k
3.3k
K
0V
3.9k
AC2
10k
JP2
V–
(c) POWER SUPPLY CONFIGURATION WITH A DC SUPPLY
D1–D4:
1N4004
78 1 5
LED
A
K
K
A
GND
OUT
STEREO: IC10a
MONO: IC1a
7 91 5
GND
IN
100nF
siliconchip.com.au
3
LM833
2
4
100 F
OUT
Fig.7: the three power supply variants: shown at top is (a), for operation
from a 30V centre-tapped mains transformer; (b) for operation from an 15V
AC plugpack or non-centre tapped transformer and finally (c), as shown at
the bottom, for operation via a DC supply of up to about 20V. The greyed out
rectifier-diodes aren’t used and could be left off the PCB during construction.
Errata: the 100µF capacitor in the Mono version of the PCB connects directly
to chassis GND and not via JP2.
amp buffer stage with seven pots connected inside its feedback loop. The
wiper of each potentiometer is connected to one of a series-tuned circuit
described above. Each is tuned to a
frequency that is two and a half times
that of the last (ie, about 11/3 octaves
higher), to provide seven adjustable
frequency bands.
The output signal of the Equaliser appears at output pin 1 of op amp
IC5a, and this is fed via a 470Ω resistor and a 2µF DC blocking capacitor
(using two parallel 1µF capacitors) to
the output at CON2.
The 1MΩ resistor to ground sets the
8
1
IN
GND
IN
100
DC level for the output signal while
the 1nF capacitor shunts any out-ofband high-frequency noise to ground.
The 470Ω resistor determines the
output impedance of the equaliser,
while the 2µF output capacitor and
470nF input capacitor set the low frequency -3dB point of the entire circuit
to about 4Hz.
Power supply
As already noted, there are three
power supply options and these are
depicted in Figs.7(a)-(c).
You can use a centre-tapped 30V
transformer, a 15-16VAC plugpack or
Australia’s electronics magazine
STEREO: IC10b
MONO: No IC
5
7
6
SC
2020
a DC supply of up to 20V.
There are two ground/earth connections shown on the circuit with
different symbols for each. One is the
ground for the power supply, signal
inputs and signal outputs, shown with
an Earth symbol (although it’s only actually connected to Earth if a mains
transformer is used).
The second is the ground reference
signal for the op amp circuitry, and this
ground symbol is identical to the one
used in Fig.4; indeed, all the points
shown connected to ground in Fig.4
connect to the ground in Figs.7(a)-(c).
The two grounds are connected diApril 2020 43
1 F
7-BAND STEREO
EQUALISER
SILICON CHIP
IC7
LM833
1
IC6
LM833
IC5
LM833
10
100nF
100nF
1
1.8k
4.7nF
51k
1.8k
62k
2.2nF
1 F
470
OPA1642
100pF
220pF
10nF
1.8k
68k
1M
10k
470pF
2.2nF
4.7nF
10
220pF
51k
1.8k
10nF
62k
1.8k
1nF
68k
1.8k
470pF
82k
12nF
IC9
100 F
100nF
IC10
LM833
1.8k
82k
1.8k
IC3
LM833
33nF
1nF
100k
100nF
1
IC4
LM833
IC8
10k
91k
1.8k
68nF
100nF
1
4.7nF
100nF
100
1nF
2.2nF
1.8k
470nF
100k
100pF
1k
12nF
91k
1.8k
130k
1.8k
10
3.3k
REG1
7815
1 F
100pF
1 F
10nF
22nF
1.8k
10 F
100nF
1
10k
100nF
1
OUT L
CON2
100pF
470nF FB1
10k
1k
100nF
110k
220nF
100nF
1
IC2
LM833
10 F
1
IC1
LM833
220nF
1
33nF
2
4.7nF
100nF
100nF
1
IN L
CON1
10k
470nF
100pF
JP1
JP2
470nF
1.8k
270nF
10nF
110k
1 F
130k
10
REG2
7915
470
1 F
470 F 25 V
22nF
25V
100nF
FB2
OPA1642
+
1
3.9k
+
CON5
470 F
Jumper settings
for AC supply
10k
+
IN R
CON3
100pF
1nF
1M
REV.B
Jumper settings
for DC supply
OUT R
CON4
D1 D2
4004
AC2
4004
AC 1 0V
4004
C 2020
01104202
4004
D4 D3
270nF
33nF
100nF
68nF
VR2 50k lin
VR3 50k lin
VR4 50k lin
LED1
A
VR1 50k lin
33nF
2.2nF
VR5 50k lin
VR6 50k lin
GND
VR7 50k lin
D3
100pF
4004
44
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
1 F
10k
100nF
FB1
470nF
7-BAND
Mono EQUALISER
SILICON CHIP
51k
4.7nF
1.8k
100k
OPA1642
IC5
IC4
LM833
2.2nF
10k
10nF
62k
1.8k
100pF
all signals to the op1 amps now must be
biased at half supply so that there will
100pF
10a
Fsymmetrical signal swing between
be
10
1k
the
100nF and 0V.
10
100nFpositive DC supply
This
is derived
using 220pF
two series
1
1nF rail470pF
10kΩ resistors across V+ and V-, with
the centre connection bypassed to Vwith a 100µF capacitor, to reject supply ripple. Op amps lC10a (stereo version) and lC1a (mono version) buffer
GND
VR5
VR6 50krail.
lin supply
lin
VR7 50k lin
this50khalf
The spare op amp (IC10b) is not used
in the stereo version, but is connected
as a buffer from IC10a’s output. This
is to prevent the op amp inputs floating and causing oscillation. The mono
version uses an existing spare op amp
(IC1a) for the Vcc/2 buffer, so there is
no unused op amp half.
1M
12nF
IC3
LM833
68nF
82k
1.8k
91k
100nF
1.8k
IC2
LM833
33nF
100nF
1.8k
470nF
10k
130k
1.8k
270nF
LED1
1 F
IC1
LM833
100
3.9k
25Vbetween 0V and AC1
rectly together when using an AC sup- 25V This connects
+
10k
ply, via JP1. In this case, the power
sup- at CON5, and+diodes D1 and D4 form
F 220nF
ply ground is connected to the10k
centre two half-wave rectifiers
to 10
derive
the
220nF
JP1 1
JP2
tap of the transformer and100nF
the ground 2 positive
and negative
100nF rails. Diodes D2
1
pins of REG1 and REG2. The AC
from and D3 are thus
unused,
may 1be
2.2nF
1
4.7nF and
the transformer is converted to pulsat- 22nF
omitted.
10nF
ing DC by the bridge rectifier formed by
The rest of the circuit works identiD1-D4 and filtered by two 470µF 25V cally to the case in Fig.7(a); the only
capacitors, one for the positive supply difference is that there will be twice
and one for the negative.
as much ripple on the filtered but unA
VR2 50k
50k
lin the
VR1 50kregulated
lin
lin
50k lin
VR4 inputs
The DC across these capacitors (with
DC
railsVR3
that
form
significant ripple) is then fed to regula- to REG1 & REG2.
tors REG1 and REG2 which provide the
For a DC supply, as shown in Fig.7(b),
+15V and -15V regulated supply rails the positive voltage is applied to the
to run the op amps.
AC1 terminal of CON5 and the negaThe power LED, LED1, is powered tive voltage to the 0V terminal. Diode
from the +15V rail and its current is D4 provides reverse polarity protection;
set to around 4mA by a 3.3kΩ resistor. diodes D1-D3 may be omitted.
A 3.9kΩ resistor between 0V and
For input voltages below 18V, REG1
the -15V supply rail provides a simi- should be omitted and its input and
lar current flow in the negative supply output terminals shorted, so that the
rail, so that the supply rails collapse at external supply runs the circuit dithe same rate when power is switched rectly via D4.
off. This prevents the op amps from osWhen using a DC supply, no negative
cillating as the supply capacitors dis- rail is available so REG2 can be left off.
charge, and also prevents the output A shunt is placed on header JP2 to convoltage from shifting markedly from nect the V- supply rail to the negative
0V during power down.
side of the external DC supply. JP1 is
You can use a 15-16VAC plugpack, then positioned to connect the op amp
as shown in Fig.7(b), instead of the grounds to a Vcc/2 half supply rail.
centre-tapped transformer in Fig.7(a).
This half supply rail is required as
1 F
470 F
470
470 F
REG2
7915
68k
REG1
7815
1nF
33nF
1.8k
D4
4004
D2
4004
D1
100 F
CON3
REV.B
4004
01104201
3.3k
Fig.8: the overlay diagram (and matching photo opposite) for the stereo version of the equaliser. Take care to orientate the
ICs, diodes, electrolytic capacitors and the regulators correctly. Before you solder the grounding wire to all pots (also see
photo at right) you will probably have to scrape or file some of the passivation off the pot CON2
bodies, otherwise
soldering
may
IN
OUT
CON1
be very difficult. This wireCconnects
to the PCB
at
the
“GND”
pad
at
the
right
side.
2020
AC1 0V AC2
Construction
The stereo version of the equaliser is
built using a double-sided PCB coded
01104202, measuring 157 x 86mm. Its
component overlay diagram is shown
in Fig.8. The mono version is built on
a different double-sided PCB coded
01104201, measuring 143 x 63.5mm. If
building this version, refer to the mono
overlay diagram, Fig.9.
Note that if you are building the stesiliconchip.com.au
reo version and you are not using a DC
supply, op amp IC10 does not need to
be installed. That’s because it’s only
used to buffer the Vcc/2 supply rail required for the DC power configuration.
Begin construction by fitting the
surface-mount ICs. These are IC8 and
IC9 for the stereo version and IC5 for
the mono version. (This type of op
amp is not available in a through-hole
package).
In each case, make sure you have orientated the IC correctly; a white line is
printed on the top of the package between pins 1 and 8. Position the IC over
the PCB pads and solder one corner
pin. Check its alignment and re-melt
the solder if you need to adjust its position. When the IC is aligned correctly,
solder the remaining seven pins. Make
sure that there no solder dags bridging
any of the adjacent pins.
However, keep in mind that the following pins are joined on the PCB, so
bridges between them do not matter:
(stereo version) pins 1 & 2 of IC9 and
pins 6 & 7 of IC8; (mono version) pins
6 & 7 of IC5.
Continue by installing the resistors.
You should check their values using a
multimeter set to read ohms to be safe.
siliconchip.com.au
Then fit the two ferrite beads by feeding a resistor lead offcut through each
bead before soldering them in place.
Diodes D1-D4 can be mounted now;
make sure they are orientated correctly. As shown in Figs.7(b) & (c), if you
are powering the unit from a plugpack
or DC supply, you may omit some of
these diodes, although it doesn’t hurt
to fit them all.
Continue by installing the remaining
ICs. These are in dual-in-line packages,
so you can use IC sockets if you prefer. This makes it easier to swap them
later, or replace a failed op amp; however, the sockets themselves can be a
source of problems due to corrosion in
the metal which contacts the IC pins.
Regardless of whether you are soldering sockets or ICs to the board, make
sure they are all orientated correctly.
Now fit the ceramic and MKT polyester capacitors, which are not polarised,
followed by the electrolytic capacitors,
which are. Their longer leads must go
into the holes marked with the “+”
symbols on the PCB; the striped side
of each can indicates the negative lead.
LED1 also needs to be mounted with
the correct orientation. Its longer lead
is the anode, and this goes to the pad
Australia’s electronics magazine
marked “A” on the PCB. Fit it with the
top of the lens 12mm above the PCB.
The leads can be bent over so the LED
is horizontal later, when installing the
Equaliser into its case.
When mounting the RCA sockets,
the white ones are for the left channel
and the red ones are for the right channel. The 3-way screw terminal (CON5
for the stereo version or CON3 for the
mono version) can then be installed
with its wire entry holes towards the
edge of the PCB.
Fit regulators REG1 and REG2 next.
These are mounted horizontally, with
the tabs secured using screws and nuts.
If you are using a DC supply for the
equaliser, then REG2 and associated
components do not need to be installed
(this includes the 470µF and 220nF capacitors at REG2’s input and the 10µF
capacitor at the output).
If you are unsure of which component to leave off, fit them all. This
means the board will work if you decide to use an AC power source later.
For the DC supply version, use a
7815 for REG1 if the supply is between
18V and 24V (25V absolute maximum). If the supply is 15-18V, use a
7812 regulator. For 12-15V, dispense
April 2020 45
LED1
A
VR1 50kW lin
VR3 50kW lin
VR4 50kW lin
VR5 50kW lin
1kW
100nF
10W
220pF
51kW
4.7nF
1.8kW
IC4
LM833
2.2nF
VR6 50kW lin
VR7 50kW lin
SILICON CHIP
100pF
7-BAND
Mono EQUALISER
FB1
100kW
IC5
470nF
10W
1
10nF
1.8kW
62kW
68kW
12nF
IC3
LM833
470pF
OPA1642
1
10kW
1mF
1m F
100p F
470W
1MW
1nF
1
33nF
1.8kW
2.2nF
68nF
100nF
IC2
LM833
33nF
VR2 50kW lin
10kW
100nF
100nF
4.7nF
100nF
1.8kW
470nF
10nF
10kW
130kW
1.8kW
270nF
IC1
LM833
1m F
100W
4004
100nF
1
22nF
10mF
10mF 220nF
220nF
JP2
1
Jumper settings
for DC supply
D4
4004
+
82kW
100nF
JP1 1
25V
1.8kW
2
1nF
REG2
7915
470mF
91kW
10kW
REG1
7815
+
IN
CON1
100pF
1.8kW
10kW
OUT
CON2
D3
D2
4004
D1
4004
470mF
25V
3.9kW
Jumper settings
for AC supply
100mF
AC1 0V AC2
CON3
REV.B
3.3kW
C 2020
01104201
G ND
Fig.9: the overlay diagram (again with matching photo opposite) for the mono version of the equaliser. The mono version
would best suit musical instruments or a public address amplifier. It’s a little simpler than the stereo version and the PCB
is smaller. The most obvious difference (but not the only one!) is the use of single-gang pots instead of dual-gang. Note our
comments on the stereo overlay (Fig.8) regarding soldering the grounding wire to the pot bodies.
with REG1 and instead fit a wire link
between the IN and OUT terminals
(the two outer pads). In this case, the
incoming DC supply will need to be
reasonably free of noise and ripple for
good performance
We don’t recommend using a supply
lower than 12V as the op amp signal
swing becomes limited.
Once you’ve figured out which regulators to install, start by bending their
leads to fit into the holes in the PCB,
with the tab holes lined up with the
PCB mounting holes. Attach the regulator bodies with screws and do them
up tight before soldering and trimming the leads.
Mount jumper header JP1 & JP2
next. For an AC supply, insert the
jumper link on JP1 in position 1 and
leave JP2 open. For a DC supply, insert
the jumper link on JP1 in position 2
and also fit a jumper link on JP2.
All that’s left now are the potentiometers. The pot bodies should be
grounded using tinned copper wire
that is soldered to each pot body and
then to the GND terminal point (see
photos). To do this, you will need to
scrape off some of the passivation coating on the top of each pot body before
soldering them to the board.
Selecting the knobs
You must use knobs 16mm in diameter or less, and this includes any
flange/skirt at the base (ie, measure the
maximum diameter).
46
Silicon Chip
Note that some potentiometers have
a D-shaped shaft while others are fluted, so you will need to make sure that
you purchase knobs which match your
shafts. Also, keep in mind that knobs
for 6mm (metric) shafts will not fit pots
with 1/4” (6.35mm) shafts.
Whether you use a knob with a skirt
depends on how you will be mounting
the potentiometers. Knobs with skirts
are designed to cover the potentiometer nut, if this is exposed on the mounting panel.
If the pot is mounted on a recessed
panel, it is not necessary to use knobs
with skirts.
Suitable knobs for the 1/4” D-shaft
potentiometers from Jaycar or Altronics are Jaycar Cat HK7760 and Altronics Cat H6040. Both have skirts.
More expensive (and more classy)
aluminium knobs without a skirt are
also available: Jaycar Cat HK7020 (silver) and HK7009 (black), plus Altronics
Cat H6331 (silver) and H6211 (black).
Altronics also has the black Cat
H6106 and coloured cap series, Cat
H6001-H6007.
All of the above are grub screw types.
These allow the knob to be secured
with the pointer opposite the flat portion of the D-shaped shaft. Knobs with
an internal D-shaped hole should not
be used unless the pointer can be reorientated. Fixed pointer knobs generally
point in the direction of the flat portion
of the D-shaped shaft, which is the opposite of what we require.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Initial testing
You can now power up the Equaliser
board to test for voltage at the op amps.
Refer to Figs.7(a)-(c) for how to wire
up the power supply. If using a mains
transformer, make sure everything is
fitted in a properly Earthed metal box
with tidy and suitably insulated mains
wiring. Do not attempt this if you don’t
have experience building mains-based
projects.
If fitting the Equaliser into an existing chassis and using the pre-installed
transformer, that transformer must be
capable of supplying the extra current
drawn by the equaliser circuit. This
is 70mA maximum for the stereo version and 45mA for the mono version.
That’s low enough that it’s unlikely it
will cause any problems.
Power up the circuit and check that
LED1 lights, then measure the DC
voltage between pins 4 and 8 of the
op amps. This should be close to 30V
(29.5V-30.5V) if you are using the AC
supply.
For the DC supply version, check
that this voltage is close to 15V (14.7515.25V) if you’ve fitted a 7815 or 12V
(11.75-12.25V) if you’ve fitted a 7812.
If REG1 is linked out, you can expect
about 0.7V less than the incoming supply voltage.
The voltage between pin pairs 4 &
1 and 4 & 7 of each op amp should
show half the supply voltage. In other
words, this voltage should be 7.5V or
thereabouts if you measured 15V besiliconchip.com.au
tween pins 4 & 8.
All that’s left then is to centre the
pots, connect a signal source to the in-
put and an amplifier to the output and
check that the sound from the amplifier is clean and undistorted. Experi-
ment by rotating the various knobs and
check that you can vary the frequency
response as expected.
SC
Parts list – 7-band Graphic Equaliser
(Parts common to both versions)
7 knobs to suit pots (16mm maximum diameter) – see text
1 3-way PCB mount screw terminal, 5.08mm pin spacing (CON3
[mono]/CON5 [stereo])
1 3-way header, 2.54mm spacing (JP1)
1 2-way header, 2.54mm spacing (JP2)
2 jumper shunts/shorting blocks (JP1,JP2)
2 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws and nuts
1 PC stake
1 150mm length of tinned copper wire
1 power supply (see text)
Semiconductors
4 LM833P dual low-noise op amps, DIP-8 (IC1-IC4)*
1 OPA1642AID JFET-input op amps, SOIC-8 (IC5/IC8)*
[Digi-Key, Mouser, RS Components]
1 7815 +15V 1A linear regulator (REG1)
1 7915 -15V 1A linear regulator (REG2)
4 1N4004 400V 1A diodes (D1-D4)
1 5mm or 3mm LED (LED1)
Capacitors
2 470µF 25V PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 1µF MKT polyester*
2 470nF MKT polyester*
1 270nF MKT polyester*
2 220nF MKT polyester
7 100nF MKT polyester*
1 68nF MKT polyester*
2 33nF MKT polyester*
siliconchip.com.au
Note: quantities shown
are for the mono version.
All components marked
with an asterisk (*) should
have quantities doubled
for the stereo version
1 22nF MKT polyester*
1 12nF MKT polyester*
2 10nF MKT polyester*
2 4.7nF MKT polyester*
2 2.2nF MKT polyester*
2 1nF MKT polyester*
1 470pF ceramic*
1 220pF ceramic*
3 100pF ceramic*
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% metal film)
2 10Ω* 1 100Ω
1 470Ω* 1 1kΩ* 7 1.8kΩ* 1 3.3kΩ
1 3.9kΩ 4 10kΩ
1 51kΩ* 1 62kΩ* 1 68kΩ* 1 82kΩ*
1 91kΩ* 1 100kΩ* 1 110kΩ* 1 130kΩ* 1 1MΩ*
Extra parts for the stereo version
1 double-sided PCB coded 01104202, 157 x 86mm
7 50kΩ dual-gang linear 16mm potentiometers (VR1-VR7)
2 vertical PCB-mount white RCA sockets [Altronics P0131]
(CON1,CON2)
2 vertical PCB-mount red RCA sockets [Altronics P0132]
(CON3,CON4)
2 5mm-long ferrite beads (FB1,FB2)
2 10kΩ 1/4W 1% metal film resistors
Extra parts for the mono version
1 double-sided PCB coded 01104201, 143 x 63.5mm
7 50k single-gang linear 16mm potentiometers (VR1-VR7)
1 vertical PCB-mount white RCA socket [Altronics P0131]
(CON1)
1 vertical PCB-mount red RCA socket [Altronics P0132] (CON2)
1 5mm-long ferrite bead (FB1)
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 47
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9
$
3995
95
$
SNES layout. Features A/B/X/Y
buttons, start, select, and direction
controls. Easily configurable, USB
powered. XC4404
ONLY
17
$
95
9
$
95
SMOKE
DETECTOR MODULE
Detects butane, propane, methane,
alcohol, hydrogen, and smoke.
XC4470
ONLY
895
$
In the Trade?
ONLY
1995
$
Mount your Raspberry Pi 3B+ securely
to the back of your monitor or TV.
• 100 x 100mm VESA mounting holes
• Perspex
• Includes mounting screws
XC9003
PIR MOTION
DETECTOR MODULE
Detects motion, a must for any security
application project. Adjustable
delay times changeable via two
potentiometers.
XC4444
ONLY
595
$
RETROPIE OS ON SD CARD
FOR RASPBERRY PI
Preloaded with RetroPie, and autoinstalls when used for first time.
• 16GB microSD card
• Supplied with an SD card adaptor
XC9031
Note: Best compatible for Raspberry 3B/3B+
GAMING CONSOLE
TOOL KIT - 26PCE
ONLY
2395
$
POWER SUPPLY
FOR RASPBERRY PI
new
new JUST
$
2495
VESA MOUNT CASE
TO SUIT RASPBERRY PI
ONLY
Perfect for building a Raspberry Pi 3/3B+
based emulator.
• HDMI, 3.5mm, and micro USB (power)
access
• USB Ports: 4 (Standard, Type –A)
XC4403
5.1V 2.5A. Use with Raspberry Pi
3/3B+, charge power banks, etc.
1.5m lead with micro USB connector.
MP3536
JUST
2495
$
Everything you need to
get into your console and
accessories.
• Nintendo & X-Box security
bits
• X-Box opening tool
• Stainless tweezers and
more
TD2109
See website for full contents.
51
YOUR DESTINATION FOR SECURITY.
Think. Possible.
Control
with your
phone
via app
1080P
WI-FI
CAMERA
WITH SECURITY ALARM
Security & Monitoring
at your Fingertips
Use your Smartphone, Amazon Alexa, or Google Home device to control the
lights, or your mains power points. Easy DIY installation, no electrician needed.
CONTROL POWER,
MONITOR ENERGY
USAGE
Smartphone not
included.
Control includes automatic
schedules, countdown &
timers. 240V 10A rated.
STANDARD PLUG
MS6106 $24.95
MS6104
WITH ENERGY
MONITORING &
2 x USB PORT
MS6104 $34.95
FROM
2495
$
Control includes colour,
brightness, setting
schedules, turning them
on and off, even tracking
energy used.
Single: $19.95ea
Bayonet SL2250
Edison SL2254
3 Pack: $49.95
Edison SL2256
VALUED AT $198.85
Includes QC3870 + QC3876
+ QC3874 + QC3872
• 12m detection range
• 1 year battery life
QC3876 RRP $29.95
REED SENSOR
• Protects against intrusion
QC3874 RRP $19.95
View live
footage on a
Smartphone.
PANIC BUTTON
• Trigger security system in duress
QC3872 RRP $19.95
FROM
1995
$
1080P WI-FI IP CAMERA
WITH PAN/TILT
SAVE $4985
PIR SENSOR
LED BULBS WITH
COLOUR CHANGE
new
149
$
Use as a stand-alone camera
to record audio and video or
expand it with sensors (sold
separately) to turn it into a
security system.
QC3870 RRP $129
ADJUST LIGHT OUTPUT,
MONITOR ENERGY USAGE
SMART
MAINS PLUGS
SECURITY
BUNDLE DEAL
Smartphone not
included.
QC3872
QC3874
Ideal stand-alone surveillance or as a system.
Free iOS™ and Android app to remotely access
the camera, pan, tilt, review footage, etc. using
your Smartphone, iPad or Android tablet.
• Full HD recording
• 2-Way audio
• Records to micro SD card
(16GB XC4989 $19.95 sold separately)
QC3858
QC3876
ONLY
129
$
Essentials to Complete your Alarm System
EASY DIY ALARM SYSTEM BUNDLE
Build your own home alarm system using this awesome bundle. You can
customise it by adding other components too (sold eparately).
BUNDLE INCLUDES:
Quad Element PIR Detector LA5046 RRP $44.95
Alarm Relay Module 2 x 15A LA5558 RRP $27.95
Mains Adaptor 12VDC 1.5A MP3486 RRP $24.95
Indoor Alarm Piezo
LA5256 RRP $10.95
Reed Switch - Double Throw LA5070 RRP $6.25
12V 7.2AH SLA BATTERY
Avoid being left unsecure or without
internet & comms in case of power
outage. Check and replace at
regular intervals. 12V 7.2Ah. SB2486
ALSO AVAILABLE:
12.8V 7.5AH LITHIUM DEEP
ONLY
CYCLE BATTERY SB2210 $79
ALARM
& NBN
BACKUP
BATTERY
3495
$
STAINLESS STEEL
WIRE STRIPPER,
CUTTER, PLIERS
BUNDLE DEAL
78
$
95
Strips wire up to 2.6mm
and cut steel wires up to
3.0mm. TH1841
SAVE 30%
GIGABIT POE INJECTOR
Adds inline power to a single
network cable up to 100m so you
don't need mains power at the
device. Supports up to gigabit for
ultra-fast connectivity.
YN8040
ONLY
6495
52
POE NETWORK SWITCHES
Power Over Ethernet (PoE) devices are
becoming more common place, such as IP
cameras, routers, telephones, etc and require
a small amount of power to operate.
5 PORT 10/100Mbps YN8074 $119
10 PORT GIGABIT
YN8049 $239
119
$
click & collect
YN8074
Designed for security alarm
systems but also highly useful for
electronics or robotics projects.
ACMA approved. WB1598
ONLY
1
$ 95
/M
MODULAR CRIMP
TOOL WITH NETWORK/
POE TESTER
Combination crimper tool
and a cable tester in one unit.
• Tests both UTP and STP
cable
• Single and multi-wired cable
crimping
• Detachable cable tester
TH1939
ONLY
FROM
$
ONLY
1995
$
VALUED AT
$115.05
6 CORE ALARM CABLE
74
$
Buy online & collect in store
95
ON SALE 24.03.2020 - 23.04.2020
FROM
345
$
CAT5E LEADS
Suitable for most Ethernet
& LAN applications. RJ45
to RJ45. 0.5m to 30m.
YN8200-YN8234
YOUR DESTINATION FOR NETWORKING.
Think. Possible.
Speed Meter:
Fast
Faster
Fastest
HIGH PERFORMANCE
WIRELESS
MODEM
ROUTERS
Our range of high
performance modem routers
offer the best cost-effective
networking solution for
home or office setups.
Provides superb reliability N300 WIRELESS
and customisable security BROADBAND ROUTER
features found on more
Sharing your internet connection and network
expensive units. Choose
is made easy. Help boost signal strength and
from our N300 to high
reduce dead spots. NBN compatible.
speed AC2100 for a
• Speed up to 300Mbps (2.4GHz)
powerful yet affordable
• 2 x 5dBi Omni-directional antennas
wireless networking
• 4 x Ethernet ports
solution.
• 802.11n/g/b
ONLY
YN8390
49
$
Switch, Split & Extend
4K HDMI SPLITTERS
Split a single HDMI signal to multiple HDMI
outputs. Supports 4K UHD, 3D video, DolbyAC3, DSD audio and more.
2 PORT, 2 OUTPUTS AC1710 $52.95
4 PORT, 4 OUTPUTS AC1712 $84.95
AC1710
95
AC1200 VDSL/ADSL
MODEM ROUTER
Unlock the full potential of your internet
connection. Dual band, eliminating lag and
buffering from your online experience.
• Speed up to 1.2Gbps (2.4GHz/5GHz)
• 3 fixed external antenna
• 4 x Ethernet ports
• 802.11a/n/ac
YN8440
169
299
$
Easily create and expand
your wired network.
5 PORT 10/100/1000Mbps
YN8384 $34.95
8 PORT 10/100/1000Mbps
YN8386 $54.95
34
95
More ways to pay:
0
Super flexible coax lead that makes it easier to run
through entertainment cabinets and along skirting
boards, etc.
• Quality RG6 quad
shielded coax cable
GOLD-PLATED
TV PLUG TO TV PLUG 3M
CONNECTORS
WV7460 $14.95
TV PLUG TO TV PLUG 10M
WV7462 $24.95
TV PLUG TO F-PLUG 3M
FROM
WV7464 $14.95
TV PLUG TO F-PLUG 10M
WV7466 $24.95
ONLY
COMPACT ETHERNET
SWITCHES
02
FLEXIBLE TV COAX LEADS
High quality, ideal for long runs. Uses both fibre optic
and copper cores to transmit Ultra HD 4K signals.
Supports up to 6Gbps per channel(18Gbps).
• 50m long
WQ7496
HIGH QUALITY
USES FIBRE OPTIC
7995
5
AC
0
AC501
4K HDMI FIBRE OPTIC CABLE
$
$
ONLY
249
129
FROM
169
$
$
$
Ideal for long runs. Designed to compensate
for any loss over the length of the run.
Suitable for Full HD, 4K, 3D, and UHD signals.
10M WQ7437 $79.95
15M WQ7438 $99.95
20M WQ7435 $119
30M WQ7439 $139
1495
MAGNETIC MOUNT
4G ANTENNAS
N300 WI-FI
RANGE EXTENDER
ONLY
ONLY
ONLY
Tests UTP/STP/Coaxial/Modular network cables
by manually or automatically detecting missing or
disordered wiring,
and open or short circuits.
• Includes PoE (Power-over-Ethernet) finder to
indicate power loss
XC5084
39
95
new
$
NETWORK CABLE TESTER
WITH POE FINDER
$
ONLY
Send UHD 4K signals from a set top box, media player, or
other video source to another room up to 50m away over
an ethernet Cat6 cable.
• High-Dynamic-Range (HDR) video support
AC5020
Switch up to 4 different HDMI signals from
multiple sources to a single output.
4 INPUTS, 1 OUTPUT
AC5010 $129
4 INPUTS, 2 OUTPUTS MATRIX AC5012 $249
FROM
4K HDMI AMPLIFIED LEADS
Incredibly fast speed. Strong, steady signal
throughout your home so you can enjoy
exceptionally smooth, responsive gaming and
uninterrupted streaming.
• Speeds up to 2100Mbps (2.4Ghz/5Ghz)
• 6 x Omni-directional smart antennas
• 5 x Gigabit Ethernet ports
• 802.11a/b/g/n/ac
YN8394
4K HDMI CAT5E/6 EXTENDER - 50M
4K HDMI SWITCHERS
5295
$
ONLY
$
FROM
FROM
AC2100 WI-FI ROUTER
Help boost 4G data signals
for a reliable flow of data.
Simply attach to the roof of
your vehicle using the strong
magnetic base.
• Includes lead with FME
connector.
5DBI AR3340
7DBI AR3344
49
$
95
EA.
Quickly eliminate dead-spots or
provide an access point on your
existing wired network. Plug straight
into an available mains power point.
• Supports up to 300Mbps
YN8370
ALSO AVAILABLE: AC1200
DUAL BAND WI-FI RANGE
EXTENDER YN8374 $99.95
4995
$
53
YOUR DESTINATION FOR THE BEST REWARDS & PERKS
love jaycar? you're going to love our rewards!
GET
REWARDS
eCoupons for future shops in store
1 point = $1
200 points = $10 eCoupon
Detects wireless
transmitters and
eavesdropping devices.
QC3506
RRP $99.95
Includes 720P outdoor
camera (QC8041 $149),
12V Battery (SB2485
$29.95), Adaptor
(PP1996 $9.95) & Battery
Charger (MB3619 RRP
$21.95).
CLUB OFFER
179
$
CLUB OFFER
20 OFF
79
%
$
95
*Applies to LA5325,LA5332,
LA5336-38, LA5340-42.
+
PP1996
KIT VALUED AT
$210.85
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
PIEZO BUZZER
RJ12 6P/4C EXTENSION
CABLE
LEAD-FREE SOLDER 500G
3.5 DIGIT JUMBO
LED PANEL METER
35%
15%
6-14VDC. Weatherproof.
AB3466 RRP $19.95 CLUB $12.95
15%
25%
US plug to US plug. 10m.
YT6041 RRP $11.95 CLUB $9.95
99.3% tin, 0.7% copper lead-free.
NS3090 OR NS3096
RRP $54.95EA. CLUB $44.95EA.
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
TINNED COPPER WIRE
BUTYL BASED SOUND
DEADENING MATERIAL
MICROPHONE/AMP FOR CCTV
CAMERAS
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
35%
30%
Tin plated. 100g roll.
WW4030 RRP $29.95 CLUB $19.95
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
25%
BANANA PIGGYBACK TEST
LEADS
High quality, ultra-flexible.
500VDC 12A.
WT5326 RRP $29.95 CLUB $21.95
20%
Measure voltages 200mV to 500VDC.
QP5585 RRP $34.95 CLUB $24.95
25%
High current. 12-14VDC. 70A or 100A option.
SF2265 OR SF2266
RRP $34.95EA. CLUB $24.95EA.
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
DC PWM CONTROLLER
XVGA MONITOR
CONNECTING CABLES
IR ADJUSTABLE
PROXIMITY SENSOR
10%
12VDC 8A. Suitable for marine
environments.
MP3209 RRP $34.95 CLUB $29.95
25%
D15HD Male to D15HD Male. 5m.
WC7588 RRP $39.95 CLUB $29.95
10% OFF
DOORPHONES & INTERCOMS*
*See T&Cs for details.
click & collect
21MM DIGIT
HEIGHT
High sensitivity microphone (-65dB). 12V.
QC3434 RRP $24.95 CLUB $19.95
Self-adhesive. 330mm wide.
AX3687 RRP $32.95 CLUB $19.95
EXCLUSIVE CLUB OFFER
54
MB3619
SAVE OVER $30
SAVE $20
DUMMY CAMERAS*
account profile and more...
RECHARGEABLE
OUTDOOR
MONITORING
CAMERA
DETECTOR
CLUB OFFER
+
PERKS
offers, event invitations,
QC8041
EARN
POINTS
For dollars spent
SB2485
SHOP
In store & online
Buy online & collect in store
25%
3-80cm detect range.
ZD1906 RRP $16.95 CLUB $11.95
YOUR CLUB, YOUR PERKS
KEEP UP TO DATE WITH THE LATEST OFFERS & WHAT'S ON!
Visit www.jaycar.com.au/makerhub
ON SALE 24.03.2020 - 23.04.2020
YOUR DESTINATION FOR WORKBENCH ESSENTIALS
Think. Possible.
FINDER
ADVENTURER 3
Fully assembled and easy to use. Features slide-in
build plate, assisted levelling, filament-run-out
detection and more. Single non-toxic PLA filament
option keeps your creations simple and fun.
• Prints up to 140(L) × 140(W) × 140(H)mm
• 3.5" touchscreen panel
• Wi-Fi and USB connect
• Low noise operation
TL4220
Control print jobs via the cloud using flashcloud and/or
polar cloud. Compact structure with no angular design.
Ready to use and no levelling printing. Removable, heatable
and bendable plate.
• Automatic filament feeding
• Low noise operation
• Print up to: 150(L) x150(W) x150(H)mm
TL4256
3D PRINTER
3D PRINTER/CNC/
LASER ETCHER
3D PRINTER
3D PRINTER
The best fabrication tool for entry level users. 3D print,
engrave and laser cut with a single machine. Easy swap &
interchangeable modules. Includes easy to use software.
• 3.5" Touchscreen
• Heated Build Plate
• Prints up to 125(L) x 125(W) x 125(H)mm
TL4400
See website for details.
BONUS
ONLY
1349
$50
$
FILAMENT
With purchase
of TL4256.
JUST
899
$
JUST
599
$
DON'T FORGET
YOUR FILAMENT
BONUS
$100
FILAMENT
With purchase
of TL4400.
Check in-store or online for
full range FROM $19.95
3D PRINTERS. THINK JAYCAR. We stock a wide range of 3D printers and accessories for every budget, including
reputable big brands. Pop in-store to discuss what printer would suit your needs with our knowledgeable staff.
ESD SAFE
SOLDER/
DESOLDER
REWORK
STATION
For professional and hobbyist
QUICK
HEAT UP
use.
• 60W Soldering pencil and
300W rework blower
• Innovative heater and sensor
• Adjustable temperature
• Dual digital display
TS1648
JUST
249
$
FREE* LEATHER TOOLBELT
(HB6373) With any purchase of the below tools:
*
8 PIECE 1000V VDE SET
Includes two Phillips, two slotted, long
nose pliers, side cutters, mains tester, and
PVC electrical tape. VDE approved to
1000V.
• Insulated right to the tip
TD2031
ONLY
ONLY
34
$
95
PCB HOLDER WITH MAGNIFIER
• Perfect for PCB assembly & soldering
• 2X magnifying lens
• Requires 3 x AAA
batteries (SB2413
$3.25 sold separately)
TH1987
ONLY
2495
$
More ways to pay:
5995
$
FREE LED HEADBAND
MAGNIFIER
MODULAR
STORAGE CABINET
ONLY
1995
$
Features 12 slide-out drawers to keep
your components organised. Modular
slide locking system allows stacking
vertically and horizontally.
• 295(W) x 200(H) x 160(D)mm
HB6332
ONLY
17
$
95
MINI BENCH VICE
Made from strong,
lightweight aluminium. Will
clamp to surfaces up to 1"
thick and hold material up
to 2" thick. 50mm opening
jaw. TH1764
ONLY
LIQUID PLASTIC
WELDING KIT
With purchase of TS1648
(QM3511 valued at $29.95)
22 PIECE LONG BIT
SCREWDRIVER SET
WITH CASE
• Includes popular
slotted, Phillips, Star
and TRI bits
• Storage case included
TD2114
Limit 1 per customer
5995
$
Bond, build, fix and fill
virtually anything in
seconds. A solvent free
formula stays liquid
until cured with the
included UV LED Light.
NA1530
2-IN-1 LASER
MEASURING TAPE
new
JUST
4495
$
IP67 TRUE RMS
AUTORANGING
CAT IV DMM
150MM PRECISION
SIDE CUTTERS
• Made from carbon steel
• Designed for sharp
cutting in precision wiring
• Insulated soft-touch handle
TH1891
JUST
44
$
Measure up to 30m using the laser or up
to 5m with the retractable tape. Metric
and imperial. USB rechargeable.
• Auto power-off
• Non-slip grip
QM1627
95
WATERPROOF
• 600V, 4000 count
• AC/DC voltages up to
1000V
• AC/DC currents up
to 10A
• Data hold, relative
measurement
QM1549
ONLY
9995
$
55
HOT OFFERS
SAVE UP TO $100
QUICK CHANGE
RATCHET CRIMP
TOOL
A MUST FOR
SURFACE MOUNT
HAND SOLDERING
• Heavy duty ergonomic
• Interchangeable dies,
no screwdriver needed
• Ratchet mechanism
designed for maximum
power or quick release
TH2000
ONLY
3995
$
• PC CONNECTION
VIA USB
• SD CARD
SUPPORT
NOW
299
$
100MHZ DUAL
CHANNEL
OSCILLOSCOPE
SAVE $80
WORKSHOP/TOOL
KIT MUST HAVE
30% OFF
11 X DIES TO SUIT!
With purchase of TH2000
See website for details.
50W ESD SAFE
SOLDERING STATION
An outstanding, fast, accurate soldering station from Thermaltronics
uses the proven Curie Point technology to bring the tip up to operating
temp using fast RF induction. It works with leaded and unleaded solder.
Mains powered, 350°C to 398°C Temp range. 0.5mm chisel tip included.
TS1584 WAS $379
ALSO AVAILABLE: Spare Tips With Heating Element FROM $29.95
100M HDMI 1080P EXTENDER
WITH INFRARED EXTENDER
Extend your HDMI signal using CAT5e/6
cable up to 100m*. Use your remote in
either location with the built-in infrared
transmitter. *Depending on cable used & resolution.
AC1734 ORRP $179
NOW
159
$
SAVE $20
LED STROBE LIGHT
WITH MAGNETIC BASE
High powered amber LED vehicle warning
light for alerting other drivers or pedestrians.
• Multiple strobe and flash patterns
• 12-24VDC operation
• Magnetic mounting or optional fixed mount
ST3278 WAS $129
SUITABLE FOR CARS
& TRUCKS
NOW
99
$
Lightweight and compact unit for
greater control and data storage
options. 7" colour LCD. Built-in
waveform generator for various
testing applications. Two channel.
High accuracy.
QC1936 WAS $899
NOW JUST
799
$
SAVE $100
5W UHF CB RADIO
TRADIES PACK
Has everything you need to stay in touch
when on the go! Includes:
• 2 x 5W Waterproof UHF transceivers
• 2 x Mini speakers/microphones
• 2 x 12V Cigarette lighter charger
• 2 x VOX Headset
• 1 x Dual charging cradle with
mains supply
• Plastic carry case
DC1069 WAS $449
NOW
349
$
SAVE $100
SAVE $30
NOW
39
$
95
SOLAR LIGHT KIT WITH
REMOTE CONTROL
LI-ION / NI-MH
BATTERY CHARGER
EA
SAVE 20%
2 WAY DISPLAYPORTS
SPLITTER Send identical signals to two
monitors simultaneously.
AC1755 WAS $49.95
SWITCHER Select between two signal
sources to send to a single monitor.
AC1757 WAS $49.95
Designed to charge a 3.7V
rechargeable Li-ion battery or 1.2V
AA, AAA Ni-MH/Ni-Cd battery.
• USB powered
NOW
• LCD screen
MB3702
WAS $19.95
9
$
95
HALF PRICE!
Long life, lightweight Li-ion
battery pack. Includes 3 x
individual 3W lights and 1
x 3W solar panel. Doubles
as a power bank with 5V 1A
USB port to keep your phone
changed. MB3693
WAS $79.95
NOW
4995
$
SAVE $30
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for Rewards / membership T&Cs. IN-STORE ONLY refers
to company owned stores and not available to Resellers. Page 1: BONUS 60/40 SOLDER 200G applies to 1 x NS3005 or NS3010 with purchase of Soldering Station (TS1564). BONUS $50 Worth of Filament with purchase of TL4410 includes all colours Standard, Exotic & Flashforge range. Page 2: Club Offer: GPS Tracker bundle includes 1 x each of XC3710, XC4430, XC4536, XC4989, MB3793, ST0505, RR0552, ZD0150, ZD0169, ZD0170 for $89.95. Bundle & Save: 1 x PB8820 + 1 x PB8840 for $14.95.
Page 4: IP Camera Bundle includes 1 x QC3870, 1 x QC3876, 1 x QC3874 and 1 x QC3872 for $149. Easy DIY Alarm System Bundle includes 1 x LA5558, 1 x LA5046, 1 x LA5070, 1 x LA5256 and 1 x MP3486 for $78.95. Page 6: Club Offer: 20% OFF Dummy
Cameras applies to LA5325, LA5332, LA5336-38 and LA5340-42. Rechargeable Outdoor Monitoring Bundle includes 1 x QC8041, 1 x SB2485, 1 x PP1996 and 1 x MB3619 for $179. 10% OFF Doorphones and Intercoms applies to AI5500, AM4310,
QC3880, QC3884 & QV9090. Page 7: BONUS $50 or $100 Worth of Filament with purchase of TL4256 or TL4400 includes all colours - Standard, Exotic & Flashforge range. FREE LED Headband Magnifier (QM3511) applies with every purchase of Solder/
Desolder Station (TS1648). Page 8: 30% OFF Dies applies to TH2001, TH2002-TH2011 valid with purchase of Heavy Duty Crimp Tool (TH2000).
For your nearest store
& opening hours:
1800 022 888
www.jaycar.com.au
Over 100 stores &
130 resellers nationwide
MONA VALE
48 Darley Street.
Mona Vale, NSW 2103
PH: (02) 9979 1711
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road,
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100
Fax: (02) 8832 3169
ONLINE ORDERS
www.jaycar.com.au
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring
your local store to check stock details. Occasionally there are discontinued items advertised on a special / lower price
in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Resellers. These
stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and
special offers are valid from catalogue sale 24.03.2020 - 23.04.2020.
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
It would be a waste of parts
Dave Thompson
One of the bigger challenges we face as electronic servicemen is finding
replacement parts. It’s bad enough that many parts are no longer being
made, but it seems that many manufacturers go out of their way to make
it difficult for repairers.
Some manufacturers use a combination of methods to frustrate us: obfuscating critical component values,
using single-use or anti-tamper fasteners, withholding data sheets or circuit
diagrams, or by using proprietary parts
and either not making them available,
or restricting access to them via ‘official’ repair agencies.
Gone are the days when comprehensive back-end parts supply networks
supported products for years after they
were sold.
Note that some companies do not
use this model. BMW, for example,
still stock or supply parts for every car
they’ve ever made. Having said that,
if you’re cynical, you might think that
this is part of their business model.
Who else do you know that makes cars
with rod bearings that are maintenance
items! And don’t get me started on the
plastic water pump impellers or selfdestructing VANOS pumps...
But at least you can fix your BMW
when it breaks. That’s something.
There are other ‘good guys’ out there,
include the likes of Kenwood and a
handful of well-known home appliance manufacturers.
Admittedly, even for these manufacturers’ products, getting hold of some
of the rarer parts for older models can
be expensive or difficult (or both); but
at least they are available. It’s a shame
more companies don’t do the same;
instead of us repairing their products,
they prefer we simply dump them and
buy a new one, which has never made
sense to me.
Wasteful business practices
If I buy a product that fails and cannot be repaired, I am far less likely to
buy another one made by the same
company. My knee-jerk reaction is to
take my business (and money) elsewhere. So it may help them make a
quick buck now, but it’s going to cost
them in the long run.
That’s not to say the next manufacturer’s product won’t be exactly the
same, but at least I’ll feel empowered
about not throwing good money after
bad. I’d also be more inclined to do my
due diligence next time, and buy instead from a manufacturer who offers
‘real’ after-sales service and support.
But perhaps more importantly, the
amount of waste this generates is horrendous. Over the years, my microcompany has recycled (where possible) or dumped tonnes of plastics
and metals, some of which is probably
quite toxic to the environment. Multiply that by millions, and the result is
mountains of e-waste.
I’ve said it before; throwing away an
entire device (for example a printer),
for the sake of an unobtainable 10cent part, is disgraceful; something
must change.
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
A lack of replacement parts
leads to much waste
An old TV repair
A series of Diesel Peugeots
HP4350dtn printer repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
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Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 57
Usually, it is those of us at the front
lines who have to break the news to
incredulous owners that their appliance is now junk because we can’t get
some component for it.
In many cases, even if we can get a
circuit diagram, or are clever enough
to change the design to allow newer
parts to be used, the repair costs often
exceed (or at least, come close to) the
cost of a replacement unit. When it
comes down to it, the less-expensive
choice usually wins.
I don’t think I’m being too dramatic if I say things have to change. Most
manufacturers of old (say, one generation ago) would be appalled at the
built-in obsolescence and the sheer
waste of materials that modern companies create.
My suggested remedy is simple: if
a company makes and sells a product
without a reasonable life expectancy,
or fails to provide spare parts or information to support it, they should
then be liable for that device when it
fails. This would mean the company
has to take the products back at endof-life and be made to dispose of the
waste responsibly.
Obviously, this would take some doing, but at least if they sell junk that
lasts a year, they then have to deal with
the fall-out from it.
I know what you are thinking; these
people could simply sell their toxic
mountains of rubbish to a developing country for ‘processing’ and wash
their hands of the whole thing, and of
course, this is already happening. But
a well-run system would make them
prove that the items had been disposed
of properly.
Perhaps then, manufacturers would
put more of a focus on long product
lifespans and sustainability, and less
emphasis on making quick profits.
This would no doubt result in more
expensive hardware, but I, for one,
would be happy paying more for this.
Anyway, if you pay 50% more for a
product which lasts twice as long,
you’ve come out ahead.
almost every unit. The company must
have known of the problem for years,
especially as existing supplies of
what spare PCBs there were available
dwindled. Instead of admitting to the
problem and producing more spares,
to keep these not-insubstantial instruments going at very minimal cost, they
chose instead to try to coerce owners
into buying a brand new unit.
I think that’s an immoral and unethical way to treat your customers,
and wasteful to boot.
The rub is that many of these pianos aren’t creaky old junk. They are
well-loved pieces of furniture and
most are still 100% working except
for the failing flexible PCBs. It didn’t
take me long to identify the problem;
even a cursory Google search revealed
many dozens of irate owners in the
same position.
There was talk of class-action lawsuits, but a rag-tag bunch of end-users have no real chance against some
multibillion-dollar conglomerate with
deep pockets. Even when such lawsuits are successful, the damaged parties usually get a pittance. The only
real winners are the lawyers.
The result is a group of people who
will likely never buy another piano
made by that company. So does this
make for good business practice? The
company seems to do all right, regardless. So I guess they got away with it.
also threw up some parts challenges. The amp used a couple of output
(power) modules I hadn’t seen before.
Amplifier modules were all the rage
back in the 70s and 80s. Possibly the
best-known of these was the Sanken
range. They made a family of hybrid
thick-film stereo and monaural units.
They look like a huge, flattened integrated circuit, with either a pressedmetal or moulded-plastic body and
with legs protruding (usually) only
from the bottom edge (making them
effectively SIL or DIL packages).
I used plenty of them in my homebrewed amps back then, and while the
specs might be a little iffy compared
to today’s offerings (or even discrete
transistor-based circuits of the time),
they still hold up pretty well.
The SI-10X0 mono versions especially suited my needs, coming in 10W,
20W, 30W and 50W flavours. I got the
most mileage from the SI-1050G, the
50W version. This was especially good
for guitar, bass and general sound reinforcement applications.
They were great bang-for-buck, being very robust, relatively inexpensive,
able to run from a single or split power
supply and requiring just a handful of
external components to create a halfway decent power amplifier.
This meant that the output stage
could be kept pretty much the same
from amp to amp, with only the
Case study two
Recently, I had an almostvintage stereo amplifier
through the workshop, and this
Case study one
The reason for the above rant is a
few jobs I’ve had through the workshop of late. One was an electric piano, which would have been landfill
fodder if I hadn’t been able to manufacture a replacement for the dead
flexible PCBs.
From all accounts, these failed in
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preamp sections needing tweaking to
suit the amp’s intended purpose. This
also made them ideal for a generalpurpose workshop amp.
Sanken made large quantities of
these devices over a fairly long period, so there are still many floating
around today. Most varieties are available at very reasonable prices from
the usual surplus and second-hand
outlets. Some are even NOS (new, old
stock) parts.
I have bought dozens over the years
when they’ve come up on local auction
sites; I even scored a couple of 30W
modules from a home-built hifi amp I
was given at an estate sale.
So when I encounter modules in an
older amplifier, they are often Sankens
of one sort or another, meaning that my
stock of the more common modules
frequently comes in handy. If I don’t
have the right one on hand, I can usually source it from the likes of eBay or
direct from China.
However, with this recent amp, the
modules were not made by Sanken
but rather, RCA.
Worse, they had no model numbers
visible. Faded and missing part numbers are another test for servicemen
working on older gear.
As a youngster, I was sometimes
given boxes of old components from
defunct workshops. Many had no
markings, or the numbers had faded
or rubbed off from rummaging. Often,
with the part held at an angle to the
light, a quick huff on the component
would show an outline of the markings
(the moisture in one’s breath adhering
differently to the various textures on
the part’s surface).
Sometimes, a dab of moisture from
the soldering sponge similarly revealed enough information to allow
one to make an educated guess.
These days, we have good-quality
USB microscopes which can also help.
While these older methods still work,
for simple components like transistors,
I often just use a component tester. As
long as the unidentified component is
still working, I can connect a suitable
tester and it will (hopefully!) tell me
all I need to know.
However, these testers aren’t much
chop on most integrated circuits, including old audio modules like this
one. If someone really wants to prevent their components being identified, they are usually successful. (It
isn’t uncommon to see component
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labels ground off the top of packages!)
In this case, I resorted to asking my
old friend Google. Using the image
search, I soon came up with a pretty good guess as to its identity. The
mystery components appeared to be
RCA TA8651As, sometimes marked
HC2500. This is a ‘vintage’ 100W audio amplifier module, similar to the
Sanken types.
Fortunately, there are several used
and NOS versions of these sold by vendors on overseas auction sites, though
a good number of these will not ship to
us down here in the dominions. After
a few emailed enquiries, I managed to
find someone who would ship them,
complete with a data sheet, at a reasonable cost.
So this particular amplifier was repaired and the owner happy. But that
isn’t always how these stories turn
out. In more than a few cases, I’ve hit
a dead-end as the required parts are
just not around anymore, meaning
that the device either has to be modified and rebuilt with different parts, or
consigned to the scrap heap.
For example, I was asked to repair
an older Pioneer stereo system that
also used modular output devices,
also unmarked and unknown to me.
This was back in the pre-internet and
pre-search-engine days (practically
pre-history!), so I could not conduct
an image search and had limited access to circuit diagrams.
Back then, manufacturers seemed
to give out circuit diagrams freely, although in this case, the owner couldn’t
put his hands on the one that came
with this unit. So, in the end, I could
not identify them. The customer wanted to retain the unit, as he’d spent a
lot on setting up his system and the
amplifier matched the rest of his components.
I ended up replacing the output
sections completely with Sankenbased versions, complete with purpose-made PCBs. I suppose it sounded close enough to the original – the
customer was happy with it – but of
course, the modification likely killed
any value it might have had as vintage hardware.
Repairing a poorly-designed
guitar amp
More recently I had a 100W solid-state guitar amplifier in for repairs. This wasn’t an old amp, but
it wasn’t exactly new-fangled either.
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It is just a typical, run-of-the-mill
combo with one 12-inch speaker and
the amp itself sitting inside a folded
metal chassis-mounted at the top of
the wooden case. But it has a design
quirk that makes it difficult to live
with long-term.
The amp’s output transistors are
mounted to a compact heatsink assembly, tacked onto the rear of the
chassis. While the heatsink looks
quite beefy, it is barely adequate for
the job, especially if the player is
thrashing the amp at higher volumes.
Design constraints meant there was
no room for more heatsinking, so the
manufacturer added a couple of cooling fans instead.
This may seem like a good idea, but
the problem is that smaller fans (in this
case, 76 x 76mm) have to run at very
high speeds to move enough air, and
this means noise, especially once the
fans get a bit older.
These fans look similar to CPU
cooling fans of the same era, and those
fans used to wear out and get noisy
reasonably quickly too. These days,
CPU cooling fans (in desktops at least)
tend to be bigger, with a more efficient
blade design, and they run slower.
While most are around 100mm, it isn’t
uncommon to see 120mm fans cooling
some of the higher-spec processors.
Small fans may be able to move just
as much air, but the noise they produce can be very distracting to some
people. Larger, slower fans still produce noise, but generally not as much
and at less annoying frequencies, even
while they move the same amount of
(or more) air.
The fans in this guitar amp are thermostatically controlled, so they speed
up as the output stages get warm, but
that doesn’t take long even at normal
practice levels. When the fans kick
in, you have to crank up the amp volume to hear over them, which makes
the amp work harder and the fans run
faster, creating a vicious cycle.
Recording in even a rudimentary
studio would be out of the question
with this amp, at least if you wanted
to mic up the built-in speaker.
It is possible to avoid using a microphone altogether by running a
line-out from the amp’s preamp out
socket, or by using a direct injection/
DI box and piping the signal straight
into the mixing console. But many
guitarists prefer to capture the combined sound of their amp and speaker,
April 2020 59
which inevitably means sticking a mic
in front of it.
Since the customer wanted to record this way, we need to find a viable solution.
My first thought was to replace the
fans, but of course, there are no identical replacements to be had. Because
the fans in all these amps wear out,
genuine replacements have long since
dried up. Using CPU fans instead is
the only feasible route, but it means
a bit of sheet-metal working and tinbashing, which the customer wasn’t
overly keen on.
After much gnashing of teeth and
wringing of hands, we agreed that this
was the best solution. I promised him
that it would look as factory as possible, and with that pledge set to work.
I decided to use larger fans to quieten them down a bit; specifically,
120mm models. So I’d have to trim
the existing holes out to almost the
edge of the metal case. The old fans
sat over two circular holes; I reasoned
that re-shaping these holes to a square
would allow more airflow through, so
I marked the lines out and then cut
out the extra material using a Dremel
rotary tool fitted with a small cutting disc.
I finished off the edges with files
and sandpaper, then marked and
bored new mounting holes. I used
eight standard M5 x 10mm PC fanmounting screws to hold the fans to the
chassis. The old fans were connected
with inline connectors, which I didn’t
have, so I cut them off and soldered
the new fan leads to the PCB, finishing things off with cable ties and heatshrink tubing.
I broke out my workshop Telecaster and played the amp until the fans
fired up. The noise difference was remarkable. The customer was very satisfied and as far as I know, still uses
the amp today. That sure beats chucking it in the bin!
a bright young spark (with much to
learn) by one of my instructors, as he
used to work for that company.
When I joined, I was the junior of
the western suburbs group. This group
had some of the company’s best and
most experienced servicemen, so I
thought myself lucky to be in such
exalted company.
In those days, we used two-way radios to send servicemen to the next
job – this was an open channel so
everyone could hear what was said.
If you got a radio call to phone the
field service manager, it usually meant
you were about to get a rocket over
something.
I was surprised upon receiving such
a call, as I thought I had been a good
boy that week. I was even more surprised when I was asked to go and have
a look at a TV set that was usually handled by our group’s most senior technician. Obviously, our field service
manager did not want to bruise any
egos by letting everyone know he was
sending ‘the kid’ to have a look at it.
This lady was complaining that the
set had a bright dot in the middle of
the screen, and she could not see her
favourite show properly.
Most TV sets in those days were
under a service contract; this one had
been subject to many callbacks in recent times. Each time, no fault was
found.
I did not get off to a great start with
the lady when she opened the door
and exclaimed: “now they are sending children to fix my set!” But all
was forgiven as she made great tea
and scones.
It was company policy that every
call-out was recorded on a card in
the back of the set. The card had a
description of the work done on the
set, including the components used
and the signature of the attending
technician.
I was astounded by the number of
calls recorded on this set, not only by
our group’s senior serviceman, but by
other very experienced technicians
and the field service manager himself;
all “no fault found”. The set had even
been sent to the workshop twice and
returned with “no fault found”.
The trouble appeared to have started
after the picture tube (CRT) had been
changed. It was not unusual that old
picture tubes would produce a dot in
the middle of the screen when the set
Old TV repair
V. R. S., of Kelvin Grove, Qld is perhaps the only technician we know who
solved a longstanding problem in a TV
set without having to replace any components or make any adjustments. He
didn’t even need any tools! Read on to
see how he did it...
In the late 1960s, I was in my twenties, and I worked for a large TV service
company in Brisbane as a field technician. I was recruited from college as
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was switched off, or if the spot swallower circuit was faulty.
The components in the swallower
circuit had already been changed. I
checked these against the circuit, and
they were all the correct values. If the
EHT (extra high tension) 15kV regulation were the problem, the picture
would grow in size as the brightness
was increased. There was no sign of
this, so this left the new CRT as the
culprit.
I turned the set on and off several
times but could not fault it. The set
had been on for some time, so I asked
the lady to leave it turned off for an
hour, and I would return and try the
set from cold.
It took me more than an hour to return, and by that time she had given
up and turned the set back on to see
the midday news. I then had to reassign the job for first up the following
morning as I was not available that
afternoon. I pleaded with the lady to
leave the set off until I arrived.
The next morning, you guessed it,
the set was on when I arrived – frustration was building. Again, I asked
her to turn the set off and leave it off
until after midday. She promised she
would, but I had to be back before her
favourite show began at 3pm.
On arrival at about 2:45pm, I walked
over to the set and turned it on, and all
appeared to be functioning normally.
Turning to the lady, I said: “I am sorry,
I can’t find anything wrong with your
set”. Her reply was: “are you bloody
blind, can’t you see the white dot in
the middle of the screen?”
Oh! I then did an about-face, walked
over to the window and drew the
blinds, thereby removing the reflection of the window from the screen.
The sun only shone on that side of the
house in the afternoon.
It appears that I was partly correct.
The problem arose when the tube was
changed, and the lady asked the technician to help her move the set to the
opposite side of the room. It was previously under the window, where it
would not reflect the incoming light.
Checking the job card, I realized
no-one had been there in the late afternoon. I took great delight in filling
in the card with “problem found”, but
deliberately not saying what the problem had been. This way, my compatriots would have to ask and I would
smugly answer: “the kid one, all the
others nil”!
siliconchip.com.au
A series of diesel Peugeot
electrical repairs
The TV series “Roadkill” describes
a “plague car” as a car that runs fine
but nobody wants it, because it’s not in
fashion, it’s ugly, or it has some minor
problem that is annoying but difficult
to fix. You can pick them up cheap, but
you’ll be lucky to sell them for more
than scrap value. W. S., of Numurkah,
Vic has quite a bit of experience purchasing them and fixing them up, as
he now recounts...
With over 450,000km on the clock,
my Peugeot 405 (which I run on
home-made biodiesel) was getting a
bit clapped out. So when I spotted a
diesel Peugeot 406 for $750, I jumped
on it. It was filthy and had a few dings
and rattles, but its main problem was
that the speedo was not working. This
prevented the owner from renewing
its registration.
The owner had been told that to repair it, the gearbox would have to come
out. Hence the low price.
After a good clean, the car started
to look like something. I repaired a tie
rod and a couple of other things, then
turned my attention to the speedo. I
found the speed sensor buried in the
engine bay. It had to be removed from
under the vehicle, which was not easy.
It’s a two-wire reluctor. I put it on my
scope and spun it, and got a nice-looking sinewave.
I then put the sensor back in (again
not easy), and re-checked the output,
this time with the wheels jacked and
the car running in gear.
Again, I got a sinewave output. So at
least the gearbox didn’t have to come
out. This model has an analog-to-digital converter for the speedo signal behind the glove box, which I suspected
was not working. But when I checked
its output, I got a reasonable-looking
signal.
So I thought maybe the speedo itself
was broken. I removed it and set up
my power supply and fed it a pulse
train, and it came to life. This had me
quite puzzled and I spent a couple
more weekends checking the wiring
and re-checking everything.
I ended up replacing all the caps
in the converter, but the sensor, converter and speedo still would not work
together.
I decided to replace the speed sensor, but found that this type of sensor
is not available new. It was only used
for a couple of years and was replaced
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April 2020 61
with a three-wire Hall-effect sensor. These are only around
$20 each, so I got one. I had to climb under the car again,
to remove the old sensor and modify the wiring to suit
the new one.
I found the transmission gear didn’t fit the new sensor
quite right, so I 3D-printed a small adaptor.
I removed the converter and re-wired everything,
crossed my fingers and took it for a drive. To my surprise, everything worked as it should, and a quick check
on my GPS confirmed that the speedo was accurate. I’ve
now driven it another 70,000-odd km and so far so good.
406 number two
A few months later, I suggested a Peugeot to a friend
wanting to replace his Hilux. He wasn’t interested, but
I convinced him to take mine for a drive. He came away
suitably impressed, and when I told him it does 1200kms
to a tank and cost me $750, that was it, he had to have one.
So I found another 406 on Gumtree with an immobiliser problem for $600. I pointed out to my friend that
HDI tuning in the UK will delete the immobiliser from
your ECU for around $400. It turns out that the owner
had taken the car to several places, but no-one knew how
to fix it. The dash was still in pieces from the last autoelectrician who looked at it.
That being the case, he managed to get the car for $450
and spent the afternoon putting it back together. He was
about to order the remapped ECU when on a whim, he
decided to put a battery in and see what would happen.
The car started straight up; he drove it for about two
years on biodiesel before the immobiliser fault came
back. So, he ordered a new ECU with a remap and the
immobiliser turned off.
All that he had to do when it arrived was disconnect the battery, remove the old ECU (which is under
the bonnet), plug in the new one, connect the battery
and not only would it start again, he’d gained an extra
45 horsepower.
The 306
I saw a diesel Peugeot 306 listed for sale on Gumtree
with 160,000km. The listing said it wouldn’t start. I
didn’t really want another car, but I phoned my buddy
because his son (who had just gotten his learner’s permit) was looking for a car. This one had a similar story;
it had been to many workshops, including the Peugeot
service centre, but nobody could fix it.
The car was purchased for $300 and towed home on
a trailer. A new battery was fitted, and the car started
straight up. The car was well looked after and drove like
a new vehicle, so a roadworthy certificate was arranged.
All it needed was a new tyre. But after a week or so, it
stopped and refused to start.
At first, I thought it was the immobiliser problem again,
but the 306 is quite different from the 406. It doesn’t
have a display to tell you there is a fault. I plugged in an
OBDII reader which wasn’t much help, as Peugeot uses
their own software called PP2000.
I had access to another running 306, so I swapped the
ECU, body system interface module and the immobiliser chip in the key to see if the fault would move to the
other car. It did not, so I knew that these parts were not
part of the problem.
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It was then I noticed that I could not hear the in-tank
fuel pump coming on when the ignition was switched
on. After removing the rear seat, I checked the pump
by running 12V directly to it. The pump ran, and the
engine started.
Then I checked the wiring loom and found that there
was 12V present at the pump end, but it dropped to 3V
with the pump connected. After a bit of research on internet forums, I found that the fuel pump relay was a
common problem; it is buried in the engine bay. I eventually managed to get the sealed relay out and then used
a hacksaw to remove the cover.
Once the cover was off, it was easy to see the problem:
the contacts were entirely burnt off. I ordered a new relay and fitted it, but the car still would not start. There
was still no voltage getting to the pump. I re-checked the
wiring, plugs and terminals. It was time to buy a service
manual and the PP2000 OBDII software.
The software arrived, and I was disappointed to get
the message “P0087 code low fuel pressure”. With the
pump not running, this was just stating the bleeding obvious. So I took a look at the wiring diagram. The fuel
pump relay gets 12V from the fusebox, and its ground
is connected to the ECU via the inertia switch, which
cuts the fuel supply if the car is in an accident.
It turns out that with all my wresting to get the relay
out, I must have bumped it as it was open circuit. Pushing the top reset button on this switch allowed the engine to start.
I took the car for a drive, and the engine just didn’t
sound right, so I plugged the OBDII reader back in and
re-checked the codes with the PP2000 software. It came
up with “3rd piston deactivator”, which is on the highpressure pump which is driven by the cambelt. The plug
to the deactivator looked fine, but the wiring to the plug
looked like someone had played with it, the insulation
tape was starting to fall off.
After removing the tape, I could see that the wiring
had been cut and modified and the deactivator had 12V
feed to it all the time. I put the wiring back to standard
and the codes cleared from the ECU.
The car has run reliably on biodiesel until a couple
of weeks ago, when the harmonic balancer came apart.
Fortunately, that was an easy fix.
406 number three
I got another phone call from my friend to say that
his Holden Cruze had an automatic transmission fault
and wouldn’t go. Long story short, while it was still under warranty, the dealer had in the fine print that they
would only pay for $1500 in repairs and the trans repair would cost around $6000.
I didn’t want to go near it, but I saw another 406 on
Gumtree. Again, it had a few ‘issues’; it was going into
limp mode, and the climate control wouldn’t work. It was
bought for $600 and towed home. I connected up my reader to its OBDII port and got what must have been 20 error
codes. I reset them all, and we took the car for a drive.
It still didn’t seem right, so we re-checked the codes,
this time just getting one code for the MAF (mass air
flow) sensor. A quick check found that the sensor had
been disconnected and the plug taped up. This probably
was done because if the MAF sensor is faulty, it turns
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the engine check light on and for some reason, disconnecting the sensor turns the light off.
The sensor was removed and cleaned with contact
cleaner and refitted. That fixed it; the codes were gone,
and the engine ran properly again.
Turning to the climate control, I found that one fuse
had blown. Predictably, after replacing it, it blew again.
I read up on the Peugeot forums and found the speed
controller for the blower motor was a common problem.
This is located under the glove compartment.
Access is difficult, but I managed to remove it, and I
sensed that burnt PCB smell. The plug was also melted. A new controller and plug with wiring was ordered
and fitted to the car, and the fuse replaced. But the fan
would only run flat out and wasn’t blowing any air out
of the vents.
After much investigation, swearing and frustration,
I determined that the blower motor was running backwards, which was very odd. I ended up going back to
Peugeot 406 number two and comparing its voltages.
It turns out that the new speed controller and plug had
the 12V and ground colours reversed. Brand new, out
of the box, the red wire was ground and black was 12V!
I fixed that and fired off a stern e-mail to the supplier;
finally, the climate control worked how it should. The
car went in for a roadworthy certificate; all it needed
was a tail light and new wiper blades. So it turned out
to be another great deal!
If you are thinking of buying a plague car, be aware
that Peugeots are not that common in Australia, so
many garages are not familiar with them. They don’t
want to put in the effort or time to fault-find problems
with them. The good news is they are very common in
the UK, so advice and parts are available on UK forums
and via ebay.co.uk
Helping to put you in Control
IP65 Loop Powered 4 Digit Process Indicator
The Simex SWE-N55L is a 4 Digit Process
Indicator which accepts 4-20mA input signals
and is loop powered. It comes with 1 Relay for
alarm or control.
SKU: SII-110
Price: $189.95 ea + GST
IP65 Current/Voltage Input 4 Digit Process
Indicator
The Simex SRP-N118 is a 4 Digit
Process Indicator which accepts
4-20mA, 0-5V or 0-10V DC input
signals. It comes with 2 Relays
for alarms or control and RS485
communications. DC 19~50V powered.
SKU: SII-102
Price: $289.95 ea + GST
Temperature Sensor for Temperature Instruments
PT100 temperature sensor with
handle. Operating range -40 to 150C.
SKU: HES-150
Price: $29.95 ea + GST
SZP-73 4-20mA Panel Mount Calibrator
Current test set allows for generating
user-defined current (in the 4-20 mA
range).
SKU: SII-401
Price: $239.95 ea + GST
HP4350dtn printer repair
D. M., of Toorak, Vic knew that it would be difficult
and expensive to fix a faulty PCB in his printer. But he
came up with a much easier and cheaper fix that worked
just as well...
I have had a Hewlett-Packard LaserJet 4350dtn printer for a while now. It’s a heavy-duty, business-grade
1200dpi laser printer and as such, comes with an embedded Ethernet port as well as USB. Recently, its Ethernet
port failed, so I could not use it over my home network,
only via direct USB connection.
This is apparently a known problem with these printers; the problem develops in their main control board,
known as a “formatter” board.
Instead of replacing the formatter board, which otherwise worked apart from the Ethernet section, I found it
was much easier and cheaper to plug an HP620N JetDirect print server card into one of the printer’s EIO (Enhanced Input/Output) accessory card slots. I purchased
this from overseas via eBay for less than $20 delivered.
Once I installed the card, I plugged in the Ethernet
cable and the printer immediately worked over the
network; no additional configuration was needed. The
card took over the failed Ethernet function of the formatter board. So an oldish but extremely robust and
economical printer was saved from the scrapheap for
a small outlay.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
DA284 Pressure Compensation Valve
Prevents pressure differentials in encIosures with
a high degree of protection are a result of internal
and external temperature changes.
SKU: SPE-200
Price: $13.95 ea + GST
Conductive liquid level sensor
Simex DRS-303 is a liquid level sensor for
conductive liquids. Ideal for use in sumps,
water tanks and detect water leaks.
SKU: SIS-001
Price: $109.95 ea + GST
N322-RHT-24V Temperature & RH Controller 24 V
Panel mount temperature & relative
humidity controller with sensor probe
on 3 meters of cable. 2 independent
relay outputs. 12 to 30 VAC or DC
powered.
SKU: CET-108
Price: $235.00 ea + GST
For Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9708 2390
oceancontrols.com.au
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 63
Last month we told you what it does and how it works.
Now we put it all together and start hatching chickens!
Part II – by
Tim Blythman
and
Nicholas Vinen
In our March issue, we introduced this versatile Arduino-controlled
heating/cooling device. It uses Peltiers to heat or chill water in one or
more loops, and it’s pretty easy (if a bit involved) to build. It can be used
for many tasks, including (but certainly not limited to!) brewing, making
cheese and cooking . . . and even hatching chooks! This article has all the
instructions describing how to build the two Arduino shields, program
the Arduino, build the water loops and tweak it to suit your needs.
J
It will only use as much energy as
We’re sure that readers will think of
ust to prove that this project has
many possible uses, here’s another needed to maintain that temperature, other uses that we haven’t.
But enough of that; it’s time to deone we thought of since last month: and on a sweltering day (which can
it could be used for an egg incuba- kill the embryos), it can actually pro- scribe how to put it all together, and
get it up and running.
tor, to keep bird or reptile eggs warmed vide a little cooling!
to a constant temperature so
Construction
that they will hatch.
We’re going to start by buildThat is often done with a
ing the two shields, as this is a
heat lamp, but that’s wasteful
prerequisite to getting the whole
and doesn’t take into account
thing up and running. However,
varying ambient conditions.
if you wish, you can do some baChicken eggs are ideally
sic testing of the ‘water circuit’
kept at 37.5°C until they hatch,
without the control circuitry.
and most other birds and repYou can rig up the fans,
tiles are reasonably similar.
pumps and Peltier devices to
By looping some water tubrun directly from a 12V source
ing under the eggs (ideally
to check that everything is workmade from a thermal conducing before proceeding.
tor like copper) and placing a The I2C character LCD allows
sensor amongst them, you can a number of parameters to be displayed.
Peltier Driver shield
set up the Thermal Regulator Temperatures from all six sensors are available, as
The Peltier Driver shield uses
to maintain this ideal tem- well as fan speeds, temperature setpoint, mode and
Peltier device drive level.
a mix of surface-mount and
perature.
64
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
CON1
25A
CON2
12V INPUT
10 F
L1
15 H
10 F
10 F SILICON
CHIP © 2020
F1
10 F
GND
REG1
10 11 12
#
9
#
#
8
Q1
Q2
Q4
Q3
IRLB8314 IRLB8314 IRLB8314 IRLB8314
# = PWM
6
4
3
#
RX TX
2
1
IC1 HIP4082
#
0
D1
D2
1.8k
10k
10k
100nF
100nF
4148
4148
100nF
#
5
7
VIN
GND
5V 3V3 RST
13
A5 A4 A3 A2 A1 A0
through-hole parts; its overlay diagram
is shown in Fig.7.
None of the surface-mounted parts
are too difficult to solder; the smallest
parts are the 3216/1206-size capacitors, which as their name tells you, are
relatively large at 3.2 x 1.6mm.
Tweezers, solder flux and solder
braid (wick) will be handy – if not
mandatory – for working with these
parts. Start with those capacitors. They
connect to some large copper areas, so
may require a fair bit of heat to solder
correctly.
Apply a small amount of flux to
their pads, then solder one lead of the
capacitors in place. If it is square and
flat, solder the other lead, otherwise
use tweezers and a soldering iron to
adjust the first lead before continuing.
The other surface-mounting part is
the inductor. As well as connecting to
some large copper tracks, it also has a
fair amount of thermal mass itself; (if
you can) it’s time to turn up the iron
even higher!
Just as for the capacitors, apply flux
(be generous this time), then solder one
lead to the PCB. Once the component is
in the correct location, solder the other
lead. Now is a good time to clean up
the excess solder flux using a dedicated flux cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.
Fit the fuse holder parts next, with
a fuse temporarily fitted. This ensures
that they are spaced and orientated
correctly. The fuse can stay in place
once they are mounted.
The iron temperature can be reduced for the remaining parts. Continue by fitting diodes D1 & D2 with the
cathode stripes orientated as shown,
then mount the three resistors. If you
aren’t sure which is the 1.8kΩ type,
measure it with a DMM. Next fit IC1,
ensuring its pin 1 dot/notch goes to
the left. We recommend you solder
this directly to the board, rather than
using a socket.
Now bend the leads of Mosfets Q1Q4 to fit the pad pattern and attach
each one to the board using a machine
screw and nut before soldering and
trimming the leads. Make sure to do
the screw up tight before soldering,
as tightening it after soldering could
damage the solder joints.
Follow with the through-hole capacitors, which are all the same type and
not polarised. But make sure to push
them fully down before soldering, as
there will be another board stacked
above this one.
Fig.7: this diagram and photo show where to fit the parts on the Peltier Driver
shield. There are five SMDs (four capacitors and one inductor), but they’re all
quite large. Flux paste will help you solder these; you will need a hot iron to
solder the inductor. REG1 is not needed if 12V is being supplied to CON2. In this
case, you can install a link across the lower two pads instead.
Similarly, push REG1 down as far as
you can before soldering it. As mentioned last month, depending on how
you will be applying power, you may
want to leave REG1 off or link it out
(with a wire between its left-most and
right-most pads). But in most cases, it
is safe to fit it anyway.
(The photo at top right shows our
board as fitted with a link in place of
REG1).
The 5x2 header can be soldered now.
You can use two 5-way SIL headers
side-by-side.
Next, fit CON1 and CON2. Since
CON1 sits above the USB socket on the
Uno and CON2 above the DC socket,
make sure to trim their leads as short
as possible after soldering. These are
large-leaded parts sitting on copper
pours, so might require the iron temperature to be increased slightly.
That just leaves the four stackable
headers. We recommend sandwiching
the shield between the Uno (underneath) and another shield (above), if
you have one. This will help to align
the pins. Tack the end pins of each
row in place and ensure that all four
of them are flat against the PCB at each
end. This can be fiddly as moving one
can tend to move the others.
Remove the Uno from below and
solder the remaining pins before going back and refreshing the end pins
of each row.
Jumpers
Insert the three jumpers/shortAustralia’s electronics magazine
ing blocks, as shown in Fig.7. You
shouldn’t need to change these unless you are radically changing the
software for your own purposes. This
sets LK1 to use Arduino pin D10, LK2
to use D9, LK3 closed and LK4 open.
Building the Interface shield
Refer to Fig.8. Start with the resistors. As mentioned earlier, it’s best to
check each batch with a DMM to verify
their value before fitting them. This is
especially important as the 100Ω, 1kΩ
and 10kΩ types have similar colour
bands. Follow with the three diodes,
which are all the same type, but ensure
they are orientated as shown in Fig.8.
Install the tactile pushbutton (S2)
next. Push it down until it clicks and
sits flat against the PCB.
There are only two capacitors, both
100nF MKT or ceramic types, one at
each end of the board near each IC.
Solder these next. Then mount IC1;
again, we don’t recommend that you
use a socket. Ensure that it is fitted
with its pin 1 towards CON11. Solder
two leads and check that the device
is flat; if not, re-heat one of the solder
joints and adjust it. Then solder the
remaining leads.
Next, install transistors Q1-Q3 and
temperature sensor IC2, all of which
are in TO-92 packages. Q3 is a different
type from Q1 & Q2, so don’t get them
mixed up. Match the transistor bodies with the silkscreen outlines. You
may need to crank their leads out to
fit the PCB pads.
April 2020 65
k
PB1
D2 D1
4004
CON10
4004
CON11
P2
Q3
+
Q2
AREF
GND
13
11 12
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
100
10k
#
10
+
IC1 74HC4053
100nF
4.7k
4.7k
4.7k
1k
1k
5V
GND
VIN
12V 5V
IC2
TS5
1
#
9
#
8
#=PWM
7
6
#
5
#
4
#
3
2
1
Q1
TX
RESET
3V3
A5 A4 A3 A2 A1 A0
100
+
TS2
1
Fan 3
+
S1
F1
JP1
Fan 1 Fan 2
TS4
+
4004
TS3
+
LED1
1k
D3
IRX1
TS1
+
LED3
I2 C
GND
SDA
SCL
VCC
LED2
Power
100nF
P1
RST
CON12 +
S2
0
RX
–
Fig.8: building the Interface shield is straightforward. We recommend that you
orientate the polarised headers as shown here, but only the fan headers are
critical. S1, F1 and JP1 can be omitted if 12V will be supplied from the Peltier
Driver shield rather than via CON12. You can use stackable headers along the
edges, as shown here, or regular headers fitted on the underside.
Then fit terminal blocks CON10CON12 and all the polarised headers.
Only the orientation of the fan headers
is critical; make sure there are rotated as shown in Fig.8 and also ensure
that the terminal blocks are mounted
with their wire entry holes towards
the nearest board edge.
Use a similar technique to the IC
when soldering these headers; solder
one pin to secure the part, then check
it is flat and square before soldering
the remaining pins.
Note that we’ve shown the I2C display header rotated relative to the fan
headers; this makes it harder to mix
them up as you will damage the display if you accidentally plug it into a
fan header and apply power. The twoway headers should all be mounted
facing the same way, so that it’s easier
to rearrange how the temperature sensors are plugged in later.
The three LEDs can be fitted next.
The red LED is closest to the edge of
the board, green in the middle with the
blue LED nearest the switch S1. The
cathodes of all three LEDs go towards
that switch. Depending on how you
are planning on using the finished project, you may wish to attach these via
flying leads or even fit pin headers in
their place and panel-mount the LEDs.
A similar comment applies to IRD1;
this can also be fitted off-board, although if you’re doing that, you’d best
keep the leads short if it is to work reli66
Silicon Chip
ably. Mount this now; if installing it on
the board, make sure its hemispherical lens faces in the direction shown
on the PCB silkscreen. You can bend it
to face upwards, although you’ll have
to be careful to avoid interfering with
the nearby two-pin header.
The piezo buzzer PB1 sits near the
centre of the PCB. Check its polarity
before fitting it.
If you are planning to power the finished assembly via the Peltier Driver
shield, you can leave off switch S1,
fuse F1 and jumper JP1. But it doesn’t
hurt to fit them anyway. If fitting them,
try to ensure they are all sitting flat
against the PCB. The switch and fuse
holder are quite chunky and may require more heat than smaller components.
Completing the Interface shield
simply requires fitting the Arduino
headers. Standard male headers will
be sufficient for most cases, although
we fitted stackable headers to our
prototype ‘just in case’, as seen in the
photographs. Like the headers for the
Peltier Driver shield, you should use
other Arduino boards as jigs to ensure
the pins are flush and straight.
Assembling the stack
The shields are designed so that the
Peltier Driver shield fits between the
Arduino Uno at the bottom and the
Interface shield on top. The Interface
shield must be on top so you can acAustralia’s electronics magazine
cess its various vertical headers.
The simplest way to supply power is to feed it in through the Peltier Driver shield. It will feed modest
amounts of 12V power to the boards
above and below.
But note that if you are supplying
more than 15V to the Peltier Driver
shield, REG1 (which is quite small)
cannot provide much current to run
any pumps or fans connected to the
Peltier Interface shield. In this case,
it is better to omit REG1 and supply
12V directly to CON12 on the Interface shield.
The power supplied to CON12 on
the Interface shield will also power
IC1 on the Peltier Driver shield, but
this will not draw much.
When assembling the stack, you may
find some places where leads or pins
touch components on the board below.
Trim these if possible; otherwise, insulate with electrical tape. The USB
socket of the Uno should have tape
placed on its top to protect it from
the power connections on the Peltier
Driver shield.
If necessary, temporarily disassemble the stack if you need to attach
power cables to the Peltier Driver
shield.
Preparing the LCD screen
You can purchase the LCD from the
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP or buy the
parts separately from Jaycar. Either
way, you will have to attach the I2C
adaptor to the LCD. Line up respective pin 1s on the I2C adaptor module
and the LCD board and tack one pin
in place. Confirm that the two PCBs
are parallel but not touching before
soldering the remaining pins.
You will also need to make up a
lead to go between the I2C header on
the LCD and the I2C header on the Interface shield. We used female-female
jumper wires to test our prototype, but
these were quite short.
The best option for a permanent setup is to make up a cable with a fourway polarised locking plug at each
end. See Fig.8 for the required connections, and check the labels on the LCD
I2C adaptor board. As the pins are in a
different order (GND, SDA, SCL, VCC
on our board and GND, VCC, SDA,
SCL on the LCD), some of the wires
will have to cross over.
The connection at the Interface
shield is keyed while the header supplied with the LCD adaptor is not. You
siliconchip.com.au
The Interface shield sits on top of the stack as cables need to be plugged into its
vertical headers. So the height of the components on this board is not critical.
Note that the fuse holder is empty as 12V is supplied via VIN. So we could have
omitted S1, F1 and LK1.
might like to replace the header on the
LCD with a keyed type so a reversed
connection cannot be made.
Starting to put it all together
At this stage, you need to decide on
the exact configuration required for
your application(s), if you have not
already. Most likely, you will want to
build something that looks like one of
Figs.3-6 in last month’s article.
The water paths are critical. Ideally,
these should be as short as possible, although if you wish to save on elbows,
the tubing can be run in gentle arcs instead of at right-angles.
Remember that you have the option
of placing the water connections
at the same or opposite ends of the water
blocks. We did not test which method
would give better results; we suspect
the difference will be quite small.
Another point to consider when designing your system is that air from the
radiator or heatsink should not blow
onto other parts of the assembly, as this
will reduce its overall effectiveness.
In our case, we also ensured that the
two radiators (one existing on the laser
cutter and one on our new boost circuit) blew air in different directions.
This can be achieved by placing them
next to each other, so that they pull
fresh air from the same direction and
exhaust in parallel.
Note also our comments last month
about insulation. For running a wasiliconchip.com.au
ter bath near ambient temperature for
cheesemaking or brewing, the demand
will not be too high on the Peltier devices, but sous-vide cooking around
60°C or higher will require decent insulation to be able to reach the more
extreme temperature targets. If you
struggle to reach your temperature
target, improved insulation may help.
Peltier device mounting
Our kit came with some hardware
for mounting the water blocks to ei-
ther side of the Peltier devices. It included several strap pieces which are
clamped by M4 machine screws. Small
springs ensure that a uniform and not
excessive amount of clamping force
is applied.
These straps are intended to clamp
two water blocks, one each side of a
row of Peltier devices. If you are using one water block and a heatsink,
see below.
Start by assembling the water blocks
and Peltier devices. This can be fiddly
as several things need to come together at the same time and they will all
have a coating of thermal compound.
Clean the water blocks and Peltier
devices with isopropyl alcohol or similar to remove any contamination and
residues. Allow it to dry.
Lay a row of straps on your workbench, with machine screws and
washers fitted through the holes; the
heads should face down. Rest one water block on top and apply a minimal
amount of thermal compound to one
side of each Peltier device, spreading it out.
The optimum amount of thermal
compound is as thin as possible, but
covering the entire area of the contacting surfaces.
Ensuring that the Peltier devices are
orientated the same way, press them
down onto the water block, sandwiching the thermal compound. If you have
(for example) all the red leads to the
left and all the black leads to the right,
they should be orientated correctly.
We used a pair of Molex connectors (in this case, Jaycar Cat PP0744) to share
the current drawn from the ATX power supply. These connectors are rated at
around 10A each, so two are needed for our application.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 67
The minimal hydraulic circuit (corresponding to Fig.5 from part one) uses a finned heatsink supplemented by fans to remove
heat from the Peltier devices and water block. It’s the same arrangement as used on many amplifier and power supply circuits.
Spread thermal compound onto the
top of the Peltier devices, then rest
the second water block on top of this,
making sure that the barbed ends are
orientated as you require.
Place the remaining strap pieces in
place, followed by the springs, washers and then nuts. Tighten the nuts until the springs start to pull up.
Ensure that the Peltier devices are
square and evenly spaced; at the very
least, they should not protrude from
the water blocks. The nuts can then
be tightened down, ensuring that the
springs are not compressed to the point
that the coils are touching.
Using a heatsink instead
To test whether we could get away
without a radiator, we used a heatsink
much wider than the Peltier devices
(40mm). Therefore, we could not use
straps on both sides to pull the whole
assembly together. If you have a heatsink that’s 40mm wide, that may be
possible, but you’d probably have to
cut down a larger heatsink to get one
the right size.
We recommend you use a larger
heatsink anyway, as this will allow
68
Silicon Chip
larger fans to be used, giving more effective heat transfer to the air.
Assuming your heatsink is significantly more than 40mm wide, you
will need to drill and tap holes on the
face of the heatsink to mount the Peltier devices.
Lay out the Peltier devices and water block on the heatsink to determine
where the holes need to be and mark
them, lined up with the gaps between
the fins if possible (this will allow the
holes to be tapped through).
If you do not have a tap, and you can
line the holes up with the spaces between the fins, instead of tapping you
could drill right through and use long
screws held in by nuts fed in between
the heatsink fins. We know from experience that this works but doing it
is very fiddly.
If tapping, drill holes to the diameter specified for that tap. The holes required are usually slightly smaller than
the tap size. Many taps are supplied
with appropriately sized drill bits.
Having drilled the holes, carefully
tap them. Take your time with this and
reverse the tap if it jams; this is usually enough to clear the swarf. You need
Australia’s electronics magazine
to use a lubricant to help as well; we
have used WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil with
success, although kerosene is also said
to be ideal for aluminium.
Clean any residue off the heatsink
and sand down any high spots around
the tapped holes. Since the brackets
have a good amount of clearance from
the Peltier devices, it is not critical that
the site is perfectly flat.
Clean the water blocks and Peltier devices with isopropyl alcohol or
similar to remove any residues and
allow to dry.
Apply a very thin layer of thermal
compound to both sides of each Peltier device and place it on the heatsink in the correct location. It’s not a
problem to adjust them, but it can be
messy if the thermal compound gets
everywhere.
Ensure that the Peltier devices are
all facing the same way. As well as the
coloured leads, many have identifying
marks on one side only.
Rest the water block on top and then
rest the straps on it. For each hole,
first place the washer, then spring
and thread the machine screw into
the heatsink.
siliconchip.com.au
Once all have been started, check
that everything is where it should
be and tighten the screws so that the
springs pull up, but the coils are not
touching.
For our tests, we mounted the fans
with cable ties around the entire assembly. Your heatsink may be designed to have machine screws threaded directly between the fins, in which
case this will work quite well.
Another option is to drill small
holes through the fins near their tips.
You can then thread cable ties through
these holes and the fan mounting
holes. In any case, ensure that the airflow from the fan in blowing towards
the heatsink.
Pumps
The input (suction) side of the submersible pumps we’ve specified must
be fully under the surface of the water, as they are not self-priming. Using the submersible type means that
a hole does not have to be cut in the
side of the water vessel, avoiding the
possibility of leaks.
For our laser cutter, we placed the
pump near the top of the vessel; the
intent here is that if there is a leak
in the Peltier cooling circuit, only a
small portion of the laser cooling water will be lost.
The pump could run dry, but that is
better than having the laser fail.
We managed this by cutting a hole in
the lid, which is a firm friction fit for
the hose. If the hose is loose, a couple
of cable ties can be used to limit vertical movement.
We found that if we placed the pump
too close to the surface, a vortex would
form, allowing air to be sucked in. The
solution is to lower the intake, which
will make a vortex less likely to form.
Since our pump was resting on the
laser’s pump in this vessel, we could
not lower the pump, so we attached
a small piece of hose and an elbow
facing downwards to lower the suction point.
Another option is to simply increase
the water level, if there is room to do
so. You might find that after starting
the pumps that the level drops due to
water being moved to the piping and
you may need to add water anyway.
As the water passes through devices
such as the water block and radiator, it
should enter at the bottom and leave
from the top.
This is to ensure that any water bubsiliconchip.com.au
This close-up of
the Peltier Drive Shield
gives a better view of the jumper shunt
and also shows how all parts sit low to clear
the shield fitted above.
bles can rise up and out. Any voids
where air has collected internally will
not be contributing to heat transfer, so
these should be minimised.
The water path should return to the
initial vessel to complete the circuit.
We cut a second hole in the lid to fix
the return pipe in place. It can also
be locked in place with the judicious
use of cable ties (or silicone sealant).
Situate the return slightly above the
water level. This will allow the return
flow to be seen while minimising the
amount of air entrained. Air is not a
good conductor of heat and air in the
water lines should be avoided.
If possible, situate the return as far as
possible (on the vessel) from the pump.
This allows the water to mix freely and
take on a uniform temperature.
With the water circuit complete, the
pump can be tested by connecting it
to a 12V supply. The return should
be a steady, continuous stream, indicating that a good amount of flow is
occurring.
Check for leaks and that there is no
air trapped in the pipes. Top up the
water if necessary. If there is no flow,
check the pump polarity and flow direction. The pumps we used are quiet
but audible.
With the pumps running, you could
also try powering the fans and Peltier devices to see what kind of performance the system can achieve. Keep
Australia’s electronics magazine
in mind that without any controls, the
water can still get quite hot.
Once this is satisfactory, mount
everything in place so that it does not
move around. We found a spare shelf
panel on which to mount everything.
Thermistors
The 10kΩ thermistors we are using
came potted into a small ring lug for
mounting.
They also had a reasonable length
of cable attached, so all we needed
to do was terminate each thermistor
with a polarised plug to suit the Interface shield.
The thermistors are not polarised,
so it doesn’t matter which wire goes
to which pin.
But if you are looking to place a
sensor in your brew liquid (as in our
diagram), we don’t suggest that you
use these.
Instead, you would use one which
is clad in food-grade stainless steel.
These are available, but cost a bit
more. You can mix and match thermistor types, as long as they all have the
same nominal value and similar curves
(check the specified Beta value).
We weren’t sure whether the beads
we got were waterproof, so we shrank
a good length of heatshrink tubing on
those which were to be immersed in
water, extending past the thermistor.
We then firmly clamped the free
April 2020 69
This view shows our complete system which will be installed in our laser cutter. The plastic tray
was in case of leaks.
end in pliers, sealing it, although injecting silicone into the open end before clamping it would make a more
reliable seal.
Another option is to assemble these
from scratch, using leaded thermistors,
wire and socket headers.
Our software has been written to
work with either 10kΩ or 100kΩ thermistors; just be sure to check the code
before compiling to make sure that it’s
expecting the values that you’ve used.
We prefer 10kΩ types as these are
less likely to be affected by EMI or
other stray fields.
in the circulating water must be thoroughly waterproofed. It should also
be mounted to prevent it from falling
in above the sealed part, if it is not
fully sealed.
If it does not need to be removed, a
pair of small holes in the side of the
container (above the waterline!) could
be used to thread a cable tie around
the thermistor lead.
Attaching the thermistors to the water blocks (and thus near the Peltier
devices) was quite straightforward.
We simply loosened one of the mounting straps and slipped the flat end of
the thermistor under the strap before
tightening.
Power supply
To power our Thermal Regulator, we
used a spare ATX power supply, as designed for use in a personal computer.
This is an attractive option if you
have a surplus unit available. But if
you have to purchase one, they are
also relatively inexpensive, and can
be quite efficient.
An alternative is one of the many
open-frame power supplies that exist. Altronics M8692 is such a device.
Mounting the thermistors
The small ring lug on the thermistors we used made mounting them
straightforward.
Although we did not end up using
the heatsink option, a simple tapped
hole and machine screw would be adequate to fasten the thermistors to the
heatsink.
For the radiators, an existing mounting screw was co-opted to thread
through the thermistor’s mounting
hole and thus fasten it.
As noted above, the thermistor used
70
Silicon Chip
ATX power supplies
require the green wire to
be pulled to 0V (any black
wire) to turn on. We made
a simple jumper with a
2-pin header and some
heatshrink; the power
supply now activates when
it receives 230V.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
You will need to do some mains wiring to use this unit; the mains wires
are exposed but protected behind a
barrier strip.
It is intended that this sort of supply is installed inside an enclosure
and we think this is wise, whatever
your power supply, as it will help to
keep the water and electronics separate. If the enclosure is metal, be sure
to Earth it properly.
The 12V wiring needed for this sort
of supply is straightforward and requires nothing more than a 30A twin
cable (ideally red/black) to be terminated at each end.
ATX power supplies need a bit more
work on the 12V side but only require
an IEC type lead to be plugged in to
supply the mains.
There are usually multiple 12V (yellow) and GND (black) wires; you will
need to use several of each to ensure
that you can draw sufficient current.
ATX power supplies also have a
power signal that needs to be pulled
low to command the power supply to
start. This wire is usually coloured
green; we simply used a jumper to
short it to an adjacent ground wire.
See the photos which show how we
wired up our supply.
If you are sure you do not need the
power supply for use on a computer in the future, then several yellow
wires (12V positive) and black wires
(ground) can be bundled together and
spliced into a single pair of high-current conductors.
Whatever your source of power, connect it to the 12V input terminals on
the Peltier Driver shield. The positive
terminal is the one closest to the fuse.
Wiring it up
You may need to take the Arduino
stack apart to wire the Peltier devices
to the Peltier Driver shield. The orientation with which the Peltier devices are connected will determine
the voltage polarity required for heating or cooling, but it is easy to change
the software if it is reversed, so don’t
worry about it too much. Just make
sure they are all connected with the
same polarity.
We used a small piece of terminal
strip to break out the connections; it
also allows us to run the short leads
on the Peltier devices further from the
Driver shield.
Fit the Uno below and the Peltier
Interface shield above. Plug in the
siliconchip.com.au
Sensor
TS1
TS2
TS3
TS4
TS5
Location
Temperature to be regulated
On Peltier water block, TS1 loop
On Peltier water block, opposite loop from TS1 & TS2
On radiator/heatsink, same loop as TS3
Spare (currently unused)
Table 1 – thermistor connections
fans, I2C LCD and thermistors. See Table 1 for which thermistor should be
plugged into which header. If necessary, the sensor mapping can also be
changed in software.
The pump(s) connect to the two
screw terminals near IC2. Check the
polarity is correct as the pumps will
not work correctly if they are spinning
backwards.
If you have a separate 12V supply
for the Peltier Interface shield, connect
that now. Only a fairly small fuse is
needed (say, 3A) unless you have some
very large fans and pumps.
Control software
The software we have written is
somewhat basic but provides most or
all of the necessary functions for a variety of jobs. It measures the temperature of all six sensors, but only uses the
data from three to make decisions. The
remaining temperatures are displayed
but not used by the control software.
You will need to install the Arduino Integrated Development Environment (IDE) to program the Uno board,
and this also contains everything you
need to customise the software, if you
choose to do so.
We used IDE version 1.8.5, and suggest that you do the same to avoid any
problems which may occur due to
changes between versions.
As with many advanced Arduino
projects, some external libraries are
needed. They might seem complicated, but using them is easier than having to write our own interface functions. These are all included in the
download package, along with the Arduino ‘sketch’ (program code) itself.
The I2CLCD library is one we have
adapted from another open-source library. We have added the ability to
auto-detect the I2C address of the LCD.
The easiest way to add this library is
to copy the “I2CLCD” folder from the
.ZIP archive to your libraries folder
(in Windows, this is inside your Documents folder, within a subdirectory
called “Arduino”).
Australia’s electronics magazine
The connections
we made on
our prototype
are shown here
although only
the first three are
critical for the
software to be
able to control the
Peltier devices.
You might as well copy the remaining three supplied libraries too, as the
versions we have included are known
to work.
These three libraries can also be installed by finding them by name in the
Library Manager. To do this, search for
“OneWire”, “DallasTemperature” and
“Irremote” and install each in turn. If
you already have folders with one of
these names, you may already have
the library installed, so you probably
don’t want to overwrite it unless you
find our sketch doesn’t work.
If you install libraries by copying the
files, you may need to close and re-open
the Arduino IDE for it to detect them.
Preparing the sketch
We won’t go into too much detail of
the sketch operation here, as you can
easily examine the source code.
It works by scanning the thermistors
once per second, along with the fan’s
tachometer signals. At the same time,
any received infrared commands are
processed. It selects a mode (heating,
cooling or off) depending on the above,
and then updates the fan, pump and
Peltier control signals.
The sketch is well-documented with
inline comments, so these are a good
place to start if you want to dissect and
change the code.
The sketch is called “Peltier_Controller_V10”, although this may
change if we update it further.
For the programming stage, you
might like to remove the Uno from the
board stack and connect it (by itself)
to the computer’s USB port. This will
avoid any problems that might occur
with the fact that the IR receiver signal
is shared with one of the pins used for
programming.
If your Peltier ‘rig’ is not near your
computer, this can also make your
life easier.
Open the sketch file, select Uno from
the Tools→Board menu and ensure
that the correct serial port is selected.
Upload the sketch (CTRL+U), and assuming that’s successful, detach the
April 2020 71
In most modes, the temperature
and fans speeds are displayed. This
shows Heating mode, which drives
the Peltier devices at +100%; Cooling
mode uses -100%
USB cable and replace the Uno in the
board stack.
The display should spring to life,
showing an array of temperatures.
Nothing else should happen yet.
By default, the sketch accepts commands from a Jaycar XC3718 remote
control, or an Altronics A1012 universal remote set to use TV code 089.
Other remote controls programmed
with a Philips TV protocol may work.
Basic operation
There are four basic modes: full
heating, full cooling, proportional control with a fixed target temperature,
or proportional control following a
temperature profile that’s defined in
the sketch.
For the first two modes, the Peltiers
are driven at full pelt (hah) with one
polarity or the other. In each mode,
the LCD shows a variety of status information, as seen in the accompanying photos.
In the last two modes, the unit tries
to maintain the main thermistor temperature (T1) at the desired value by
heating or cooling to varying degrees,
as needed.
The following buttons on the remote
control can be used to control it:
• CH+ and CH- (on either type of remote) enable full heating and full
cooling respectively. A second press
of either of the same button turns the
Thermal Regulator off.
• To program a setpoint for the third
(fixed temperature) mode, enter
three digits on the numeric keypad;
the entered number is divided by
ten to give the target temperature.
For example, entering 1, 2, 3 will
set the target to 12.3°C. This can
only be done while the unit is idle,
as it might otherwise cause it to
change between heating and cooling rapidly.
72
Silicon Chip
• Pressing the power button (on the
Altronics remote) or play (on the
Jaycar remote) will start or stop operation in setpoint mode. The setpoint can be tweaked in this mode
by using the volume up and down
buttons. This can be done while it’s
operating as small changes are OK
in this case.
• The temperature profile mode is activated by pressing the EQ button on
the Jaycar remote or “-/--” on the Altronics remote.
Instead of showing the fan speeds,
the LCD indicates the time, step number and next timed target. The unit
steps through the array of temperature/time points set in the sketch, interpolating the temperature between
each point.
This could be used to implement
the timer-based sous-vide cooker that
we mentioned earlier, or a brewing
or cheesemaking profile determined
by the exact product you are trying to
make. You can usually get an idea of
the profile you will need from a recipe, but some experimentation and
tweaking may be required to obtain
the best result.
Troubleshooting
You can check whether your Peltier devices are wired with the expected polarity by putting the unit in full
cooling mode and then checking that
the main sensor temperature (T1) goes
down rather than up. If it goes up, then
comment out this line in the code by
adding “//” to the beginning:
In Profile mode, the setpoint is
varied according to a timed series
of temperature points with ramps in
between. Instead of fan speed, the
time, step number and ramp target
are displayed at right.
// setBipolar(-(pDrive*PWM_
TOP)/100); //scaled output,
ie,
setBipolar(-(pDrive*PWM_
TOP)/100); //scaled output,
If your LCD does not light up or displays nothing, check that the red LED is
flashing rapidly. If so, the software did
not detect the I2C module, so it could
not initialise and control the display.
Our sketch includes code to automatically detect the I2C address of the
display, so it should work if the LCD is
connected correctly. Check your wiring and reset the Arduino by pressing
the RST button on the Peltier Interface
shield. If this does not fix the problem,
there may be a problem with your LCD
module.
Now what?
In Set mode, the Peltier Controller
modulates the PWM to drive the T1
temperature (top left) towards the
setpoint (bottom left). In this case,
moderate cooling of 30% is needed.
We’ve presented a good number of
options and uses this circuit can be
put to, but we don’t have the space to
go into detail on all the possibilities.
There are many ways that you could
modify the code to suit your application. For example, you could add a
DS3231-based real-time clock module
to your Arduino by connecting it to the
I2C pins (we sell these for a few dollars
in the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP). That
would allow you to set up the code to
automatically start and stop the unit
at preset times.
Or you might want to modify the
code so that you can have multiple
temperature profiles set up to suit different processes, with a way to select
between them (eg, pressing different
buttons on the remote control).
There are so many ways that this
project can be used; we would love
to hear from our readers about the applications they come up with for the
SC
Thermal Regulator!
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
setBipolar((pDrive*PWM_
TOP)/100); //scaled output
ie,
// setBipolar((pDrive*PWM_
TOP)/100); //scaled output
and remove the “//” from the start
of this one:
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By Charles Kosina
If you have
multiple test
instruments and
one very accurate
frequency reference, you
need a way to feed that
reference signal to each test
instrument without attenuating or
degrading the signal.
That’s precisely what this device does. It has one input and six
outputs, and while it’s designed with a 10MHz reference in mind, it
can handle other frequencies too.
Frequency Reference
Signal Distributor
T
his design was prompted by
a ham radio friend who has a
GPS-disciplined 10MHz frequency reference and needs to feed
its output to several different pieces
of equipment.
This means that not only are they
operating with maximum accuracy
(those with internal references aren’t
always spot-on), but they are also in
lockstep.
siliconchip.com.au
A typical 10MHz reference signal
generator has only the one output,
and this cannot easily be fed to more
than one device. You can’t just use a
Y-cable since it will then have a 25Ω
(or lower) load rather than a 50Ω load,
which would certainly reduce the signal level and might also overload the
generator and cause other problems.
You really want a +10dBm (0.7V
RMS) reference signal when terminatAustralia’s electronics magazine
ed 50Ω at the reference input of each
instrument. I decided on a design that
will provide six such outputs. In principle, it is elementary. It comprises just
six high-bandwidth op-amps feeding
the outputs through broadband HF
transformers, giving six fully isolated
and buffered outputs.
Circuit design
Fig.1 shows the circuit design.
April 2020 77
pot connects to a +3.5V half supply
DC bias source via a 39Ω resistor. The
bottom of the resistor is bypassed to
ground, so the input impedance is
139Ω (100Ω+39Ω).
This is a little higher than the 50Ω or
The incoming reference signal is
fed via BNC connector CON1 and
pin header CON2 onto the board. It
is then AC-coupled to VR1, a 100Ω
trimpot which is used to adjust the
output level. The bottom end of the
D1 1N4004
CON3
CON10
+12V
A
REG1 7805
IN
K
+7V
OUT
GND
0V
75Ω that most generators are designed
to drive, but the VSWR on the short
run of coax from the generator will not
be significant, so this should not cause
any problems. If anything, this means
that the Distributor gets a signal with a
470
1.2k
10 F
+3.5V
10 F
180
1.2k
2.7k
A
100nF
IC1–IC6: MAX4450
3
POWER
LED1
4
K
5
IC1
1
+7V
100nF
OUTPUT 1
(BNC)
51
T1
CON4
2
180
560
+7V
100nF
INPUT
(BNC)
TP
CON1
CON2
100nF
100nF
3
VR1
100
4
5
IC2
1
OUTPUT 2
(BNC)
100nF
51
T2
CON5
2
180
39
+3.5V
560
100nF
100nF
100nF
3
ALTERNATIVE TO
USING POTENTIOMETER
68
4
5
IC3
560
A
3
K
4
1 2
3
K
A
T3
+7V
GND
IN
GND
5
IC4
1
OUTPUT 4
(BNC)
100nF
51
T4
OUT
180
560
2020
CON7
+7V
100nF
100nF
SC
CON6
2
7805
LED
4
51
100nF
100nF
5
100nF
100nF
+3.5V
MAX4450
1
OUTPUT 3
(BNC)
2
180
39
1N4004
+7V
100nF
SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
3
4
5
IC5
1
OUTPUT 5
(BNC)
100nF
51
T5
CON8
2
180
560
+7V
100nF
Fig.1: the circuit of the Signal Distributor is relatively
simple. The incoming signal is AC-coupled to trimpot
VR1 for level adjustment, then fed to six four-times op
amp gain stages based on IC1-IC6. These each drive 1:1
RF transformers via 51Ω
Ω resistors, which in turn drive the
fully isolated outputs. REG1 provides a 7V supply for the
op amps. A half-supply rail to bias the signal fed to the op
amps is present at the junction of two 1.2kΩ
Ω resistors in
series across the 7V supply.
78
Silicon Chip
100nF
3
4
5
IC6
1
OUTPUT 6
(BNC)
100nF
51
T6
CON9
2
180
560
100nF
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
slightly higher amplitude, so less gain
is required to achieve +10dBm.
The +3.5V half supply rail is simply derived from the regulated 7V supply rail via a 1.2kΩ/1.2kΩ resistive divider. The 100nF bypass capacitor to
ground attenuates any supply noise
which makes its way through the regulator and this divider, so it doesn’t
affect the signal.
The signal is then fed to the six op
amp non-inverting inputs (pins 3 of
IC1-IC6), which are all connected in
parallel.
For the op amps, I decided to use
MAX4450s which each have a gain
bandwidth of 210MHz. So for a 10MHz
signal, the open-loop gain is about 21
times. They are configured as non-inverting amplifiers and the 560Ω/180Ω
feedback resistors give a gain of about
four times.
The bottom end of each feedback divider connects to ground via a 100nF
capacitor. The feedback network cannot be connected directly to ground
due to the +3.5V DC signal bias, and
also cannot connect to the +3.5V reference since it is unbuffered and thus
has a high source impedance (600Ω).
Each op amp has a 100nF supply
bypass capacitor for stability. Their
outputs are capacitively coupled to six
Coilcraft 1:1 broadband transformers,
T1-T6. A 51Ω series resistor sets the
source impedance for the transformer
drive close to the required 50Ω.
The six BNC output connectors are
isolated from ground; they are grounded by the instrument being fed, eliminating the possibility of any Earth
loops. The transformers have a 50Ω
output impedance, suiting virtually
all device reference inputs.
IC1-IC6 have a supply voltage range
of 4.5-11V; I am using 7V as this gives
enough headroom for the required output voltage swing.
This is supplied by REG1, a 5V fixed
regulator which has its output voltage
raised to 7V by a 470Ω/180Ω voltage
divider between its output and GND
pins and circuit ground. The 7V rail
also supplies around 2mA to power
indicator LED1 via a 2.7kΩ currentlimiting resistor.
REG1’s output is filtered by a 10µF
capacitor, and its input is similarly
bypassed. It is supplied with around
12V DC via header CON3 and reverse
polarity protection diode D1. CON3
can be wired to a chassis-mounted DC
barrel socket.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the scope grab of the signal from one of the unit’s outputs shows an
amplitude of 2.18V peak-to-peak, which is just over +10dBm. And as you can
see, the frequency is reading exactly 10.00MHz.
Fig.3: the scope was also used to produce this spectrum analysis of the output
waveforms, which demonstrates that harmonic distortion is low, with the first
three harmonics all well below -40dB.
Note that the circuit shows that you
can replace trimpot VR1 with a 68Ω
SMD resistor if you don’t need to be
able to set the gain exactly. We won’t
go into any more details about this option (and that part is not in the parts
list), so if you want to build it that way,
check out our board photos as that is
how the prototype was built.
x 1.6mm/imperial 1206) sizes which
are quite easy to solder.
The MAX4450 op amps are tiny
chips as they only come in SOT-23-5
packages, so they require special care
in assembly, but those with SMD assembly experience should be able to
manage them with no real difficulties.
PCB design
The signal from the GPS-disciplined oscillator is a clean sinewave
of 2.9V peak-to-peak (about 1V RMS
or +13dBm). Its second harmonic is at
-40dB, the third harmonic at -50dB and
it has no significant higher harmonics. The outputs from the Distributor
into 50Ω loads are similar, with the
A good ground plane is essential
for stability. Most components are
surface-mount types, allowing most
of the underside of the board to be
a solid ground plane. The resistors
and capacitors are metric 2012 (2.0 x
1.2mm/imperial 0805) and 3216 (3.2
Australia’s electronics magazine
Performance
April 2020 79
REG 1
7805
1
IC2
51
IC3
51
1 IC4
51
GND
1.2k
100nF
560
560
100nF
100nF
100nF
1
180
180
560
100nF
100nF
180
180
560
100nF
1 IC5
51
100nF
51
10 MHz DISTRIBUTOR
100nF
IC1
39
CSE200103
100nF
1
100nF
1 IC6
51
T1
T2
T3
T4
T5
T6
CON4
OUTPUT 1
CON5
OUTPUT 2
CON6
OUTPUT 3
CON7
OUTPUT 4
CON8
OUTPUT 5
CON9
OUTPUT 6
2.7k
100nF
560
100nF
100nF
100nF
560
10 F
100nF
100nF
180
470
1
VR1
100nF 100
100nF
2
10 F
180
100nF
TP
1.2k
CON2
10MHz IN + –
180
CON3
+ – 12V IN
4004
D1
A
K
LED1
Fig.4: use this PCB overlay diagram and the photo below as a guide during
assembly. Most of the components are SMDs, with the op amps being in small
5-pin SOT-23 packages and the RF transformers in larger six-pin plastic
packages. The only components which could be fitted with the wrong orientation
are diode D1 and LED1.
dered, check that there are no
bridges. If there are, apply some
flux paste and use solder wick to
soak up the excess solder. That
should leave just enough solder
to form good joints which are not
bridged.
Next, solder all the SMD resistors and capacitors, referring to
Fig.4 to see which goes where.
Their orientation is not important; simply tack down one side,
check that the part is flat on the
PCB and not too crooked, then
once you are sure the first joint
has solidified, solder the other
side. Make sure in each case that
the solder adheres to both the part
and the PCB pad.
The last set of surface-mounting parts are transformers T1-T6.
These are not entirely symmetrical,
as they have a centre-tap on one
side only, but we don’t connect to
that tap. So it doesn’t matter which
way you fit them, although we
suggest you match the orientation
shown in our photos to guarantee
you get the stated performance.
Use the same technique as with
the smaller SMDs, tacking one pin
and then checking the remaining
pin locations are square over their
pads before soldering them.
Through-hole parts
harmonics down by more than 40dB.
Fig.2 shows the shape of the output
waveform on my scope, while Fig.3 is
a spectrum analysis of this waveform.
The vertical scale is 10dB/div, which
makes the second harmonic -44dB,
the third harmonic -46.5dB and the
fourth -46dB.
Construction
The Signal Distributor is built on a
PCB coded CSE200103 which measures 125.5 x 60mm. Refer to Fig.4, the
PCB overlay diagram, which indicates
80
Silicon Chip
which parts go where.
Start with IC1-IC6. These are the
only ones with small pins close together. As they have two pins on one
side and three on the other, their orientations should be obvious.
Tack them down by one of the two
pins which are more widely spaced,
then check the part is sitting flat on
the board and that all the pins are over
their pads before soldering the other
four. If necessary, re-melt the first joint
and nudge the part.
Once all the pins have been solAustralia’s electronics magazine
Solder diode D1 in the usual
manner, ensuring it is orientated
as shown in Fig.4. Then bend the
leads of REG1 down so that they
fit through their pads with the tab
hole lining up with the PCB mounting hole.
Attach it using an M3 screw
and nut, and do it up tight before
soldering and trimming the leads.
Follow with headers CON2 and
CON3, orientated as shown, then
trimpot VR1. Orientate VR1 with
its adjustment screw on the side facing
away from CON2. Then mount the six
BNC sockets. They are quite bulky, so
make sure they are sitting completely
flat on the PCB before soldering the two
signal pins and the two larger mounting posts in place.
In terms of board assembly, that just
leaves LED1. We’ll solder it in vertically now, but it can be bent over later
to protrude through a front panel hole
next to the BNC connectors. Its anode
(longer) goes to the pad closest to the
2.7kΩ SMD resistor. The flat side of
siliconchip.com.au
the lens indicates the cathode, opposite the anode. Solder it with the base
of its lens 10mm above the top of the
PCB and trim the leads.
Case preparation
Fit the four tapped spacers to the
corner mounting holes using short
machine screws and place the board
in the case.
Slide it so that the BNC sockets are
touching the side, and measure the
distance from the top of the metal surrounds to the top of the box.
If you measured from the top of the
bump on the RCA socket, add 5.5mm
to this measurement, otherwise, add
5mm. Then measure that far down
from the top of the case on the outside,
directly opposite one of the connectors, and mark the case there.
For example, if you measured 23mm
on the inside, from the top of the
bump, mark the outside 28.5mm from
the top. Then punch that location using a hammer and nail, and drill a pilot hole there (or use a centre punch,
if you have one). You should find that
this hole corresponds with the centre
of the BNC socket.
The connectors are mounted 3/4in
(19mm) apart, so drill five more pilot
holes at the same level each spaced
19mm apart, corresponding to the locations of the other BNC sockets. Then
drill a 3mm hole 14mm to the right
of the right-most socket for the LED.
Enlarge the other six holes to
12.7mm (0.5in) diameter, then check
that the BNC socket surrounds all fit.
Once they do, remove the nuts and
washers from the BNC sockets, along
with one of the tapped spacers from
the PCB.
Push the BNC sockets fully through
their mounting holes, then mark the
location of that one hole in the base
of the case. Refit that tapped spacer,
remove another one and repeat until
you have marked all four holes. Then
drill them out to 3mm.
Decide where you want to mount
the input socket and DC power socket, then punch and drill those locations large enough to fit the connectors. Clean up the case and deburr all
the holes.
You can now mount the PCB in
the case using four machine screws
through the base and into the tapped
spacers, and refit the BNC socket washers and nuts. Stick the rubber feet onto
the bottom of the case, in the corners.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Signal Distributor
1 double-sided PCB coded CSE200103, 125.5 x 60mm
1 diecast aluminium enclosure with room for the PCB and chassis connectors [eg,
Jaycat Cat HB5046, 171 x 121 x 55mm
6 Coilcraft PWB-1-BLC 425MHz transformers, SMD-6 package (T1-T6) [element14]
1 chassis-mount BNC socket (CON1)
2 2-pin polarised headers and matching plugs (CON2,CON3)
6 PCB-mount BNC sockets (CON4-9)
1 chassis-mount DC barrel connector (CON10)
1 12V DC 150mA+ plugpack or other power supply
9 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
1 M3 hex nut
4 9mm tapped spacers
1 500mm length of single-core shielded cable
4 stick-on rubber feet
Semiconductors
6 MAX4450EXK+T 210MHz op amps, SC-70-5 (IC1-IC6)
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator, TO-220 (REG1)
1 3mm LED (LED1)
Capacitors
2 10µF 16V X5R ceramic, SMD 3216/1206 size
20 100nF 16V X7R ceramic, SMD 2012/0805 size
Resistors (all 1% SMD 3216/1206 size)
1 2.7kΩ
2 1.2kΩ
6 560Ω
1 470Ω
7 180Ω
6 51Ω
1 100Ω multi-turn vertical trimpot (VR1) [eg, Jaycar Cat RT4640]
Measure the distance from the two
chassis-mount connectors to their corresponding headers on the board, then
cut a generous length of shielded cable to suit both. Strip back the outer
sheath at each end of both cables, then
separate out the shield wires and twist
them together.
Attach the polarised header plug
pins to the inner conductor and shield
at one end of each (we recommend you
crimp and solder), then push them into
the plastic plug housings, referring to
Fig.4 to see which side the shield braid
goes to (marked “–” in both cases).
Solder one cable to the chassismounting BNC socket, so that the
shield braid goes to the outer tab and
the inner wire goes to the middle pin.
Similarly, for the DC socket, solder
the shield braid to the tab connecting
to the outer barrel of the connector
when it’s plugged in, and the inner
wire to the tab connecting to the tip.
Don’t be trapped by the fact that
many sockets have a third switched
negative tab. It’s initially connected to
the outside of the barrel but is disconnected when a plug is inserted.
Check for continuity between the tab
and the outside of the barrel when the
plug is inserted.
Plug the polarised headers into the
correct sockets and bend LED1’s leads
Australia’s electronics magazine
1 39Ω
so that the lens pokes through the hole
in the front panel without shorting its
leads together.
Testing
You can now apply power via the DC
socket and check that LED1 lights up. If
it doesn’t, check that you’ve wired up
the DC socket to the board correctly, so
that there is continuity from the centre pin of the DC socket to the anode
of D1 (opposite the striped end). Also
check that D1 and LED1 have been fitted with the correct polarity.
If it still doesn’t work, your power
supply may be a tip-negative type. In
that case, you will have to swap the
pins going into the plug for CON3.
Now feed a signal into the input and
use a scope or frequency counter to
check that the correct frequency signal appears at each output. Assuming you have a scope or some other
means of measuring the output amplitude, adjust VR1 for +10dBm which is
around 0.7V RMS or 2V peak-to-peak.
You could adjust for a different level
if needed. Don’t forget to apply a 50Ω
load when making these adjustments.
Given that each buffer provides four
times gain, it should be possible to get
a +10dBm output with an input signal
as low as +4dBm (350mV RMS or 1V
peak-to-peak).
SC
April 2020 81
One for the radio amateurs: a first look by ROSS TESTER
The G90: A High Spec,
SDR QRP HF 12V
Amateur Transceiver
Best known for their range of quality radio receivers, Tecsun Radios Australia
have recently expanded their product line-up with a compact HF Amateur
Radio Transceiver from China. With an extensive list of features and a
commendably low price, it's enough to make amateur operators take notice!
F
rom the age of 16 right through to my early-50s I held
an amateur radio licence (first the old "Z" call and
later a “K” call). But I found I was going on air less
and less, to the point where I considered licence renewal
an expense I couldn't justify.
But if this new transceiver had been around at the time,
I might have reconsidered that!
Then again, it was not possible for this to be around back
then – SDR (software defined radio) was yet to be invented
and devices using SDR were therefore non-existent.
We're looking at the Xiegu G90, which Tecsun Radios
Australia have recently added to their range. They have
“dipped their toe in the water”, so to speak, by gradually
expanding into other communications equipment.
While they are well aware that amateur radio is a strictly limited market, director Garry Cratt believes it is large
enough to justify this expansion – particularly if they can
offer quality product at a very realistic price. The G90, made
in China, fits both of these criteria very nicely.
Tecsun Radios Australia carried out extensive research
into both the manufacturer and the transceiver itself after
being offered distribution rights for Australia. With glowing
(independent) reports from amateurs in countries where the
G90 is already available, they decided to take up the offer.
Incidentally, we should note that we have not used this
transceiver on air (for the reason above!) but have relied on
82
Silicon Chip
reports from licenced amateurs in our local amateur radio
club for their reports. And they were quite enthusiastic!
About SDR
Software-defined radio (SDR) takes avantage of the capabilities of today's microprocessors to give features and
performance that were only dreamed about in decades past.
Many of the functions which SDR takes on were originally implemented in hardware – often complicated, intricate hardware – which of course came at a cost. With
(usually) embedded processors undertaking all, or most,
of the digital signal processing within the radio, the cost
of high performance receivers, transmitters and transceivers has fallen dramatically.
The SDR software performs all of the demodulation, filtering (both radio frequency and audio frequency) and signal enhancement (eg, equalisation).
In the case of the Xiegu G90, the 24-bit data size and
48kHz sampling results in excellent performance and is
highly configurable.
The G90
The first thing you notice about this transceiver is its
size – just 120w x 45h x 210d (mm). But in this small package is a full-featured transceiver covering the entire band
from 0.5 to 30MHz (receive), with all HF amateur bands
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
programmed in for transmit (10m to 160m inclusive) in
AM, SSB and CW modes, with FM available as an option.
What's more, it also includes an inbuilt antenna tuner so
if you're away from home, you can use a random length of
antenna wire (hoisted up a tree, or over a hotel balcony, for
example) and the G90 will match into that with an SWR of
1.2:1 or better (many users report a solid 1:1).
You'll also notice the front panel with its 1.8-inch colour screen, which has a ±24kHz bandwidth fast-scan spectrum display with waterfall. And there's also the oversize
microphone, with 25 push-buttons for control, along with
the standard PTT.
What you won't notice, until you start reading the documentation and/or using it, is that it offers a transmit power
of up to 20W (1W steps) in SSB/CW/FM modes and 5W
in AM. Receive sensitivity is excellent at 0.25µV <at> 12dB
SINAD.
There are two independent VFOs with each capable of
different frequencies and different modes. In SPL (split)
mode, you can also have split transceiving operation (eg,
VFO A for receive, VFO B for transmit).
Operating frequencies can be direct-entered via the microphone keypad or “dialled up” using the front panel
knob. In the latter case you can also select steps (using the
same knob): 100Hz, 1kHz and 10kHz.
The transceiver operates from (nominal) 12V DC (actual
10.5-16.5V) but you'll need a fairly beefy supply – at 20W
out, it will draw about 8A (did someone mention mobile/
car battery?). Receive, as you would expect, is much lower
at about 500-750mA.
You probably also won't have noticed that the radio and
its display unit can be separated, making for a versatile
mounting arrangement.
Conclusion
Consistent with our earlier statement that we weren't able
to fire the G90 up in anger, we can only go on the many favourable comments we've seen online (Google Xiegu G90)
– there isn't one post which gives it a less than 4 out of 5
Features:
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High-performance front end narrowband ESC preselector
Covers the frequency range of 0.5~30MHz (receive)
Covers all Australian HF amateur bands
Three working modes; SSB/CW/AM; FM optional
Built-in wide-range automatic antenna tuner
1.8-inch high brightness colour TFT LCD screen
±24k bandwidth spectrum display, waterfall display
Software defined narrowband filter (CW mode: 50Hz)
Detachable display unit
RF power output: 1-20W (in 1W increments)
Sensitivity: typically 0.25µV <at> 12db SINAD
Adjacent channel suppression: 60dB
Rx dynamic range: 90dB
Spurious suppression: better than 50dB
Sideband suppression: better than 55dB
Audio output power: 0.5W into 4Ω
Operating temperature range: 0-55°C
Operating voltage: 10.5-16.5V DC (12V nominal)
Current consumption: Rx 750mA, Tx 8A max
Size: 120 x 45 x 210mm
Weight: 1.85kg
and, indeed, most give it 5 out of 5.
And the members of the local radio club who have used
it on air had nothing but praise.
One comment we heard was that, despite the huge range
of controls on this transceiver, the learning curve was virtually non-existent. “You take it out of the box, plug in an
antenna and power supply and you're ready to go.”
It also earned top marks for ease of use, for receive quality and for transmit quality reported back from club member's contacts.
Yes, it is QRP (low power, for those who don't know radiospeak!). But there's an old adage in amateur radio: you
can work the world with five watts . . . It becomes more of
a challenge for avid amateur operators!
Warranty and service
The G90 Transceiver is guaranteed for 12 months from
date of purchase.
Warranty and any out-of-warranty service work will
be undertaken by Tecsun Radios Australia in their fullyequipped service centre in Sydney, although they do reserve the right to send units back to the manufacturer for
more specialised work, if required.
Naturally, any units which have had hardware or firmware modifications are not covered by warranty.
Price
Aha! We knew you'd be asking that . . .
The Xiegu G90, Tecsun Radios Australia (cat no Q5000),
has a recommended retail price of $740.00, including GST
and freight within Australia. Overseas customers should
email Tecsun Radios Australia for a quotation for freight
to their location.
The G90 sports a very nice 1.8-inch TFT display which
not only gives you both VFO frequencies, modes, receive
"S" and even the antenna SWR via the inbuilt antenna
matcher, it also has a fast-scan spectrum analyser with
waterfall display.
siliconchip.com.au
More info?
Log onto www.tecsunradios.com.au/store/product/
xiegu-g90-transceiver/ for more detailed specifications and
user reports. There's also a range of accessories available but
everything to get you going is supplied in the box!
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 83
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Multi-code lock with 10 access codes
This circuit implements a keypad
lock. It can be opened by using up to
10 different access codes, plus a master code. Each user can set and change
their own code. It has an automatic relocking feature, causing the solenoid
to return to the de-energised state after
some time. The lock is also equipped
with two other automated re-locking
features, so you don't accidentally
leave the door unlocked.
For additional security, if three
wrong master, ID or access codes are
entered in succession, all codes are
disabled for a short period (about one
minute). This makes it a very slow process to try to guess one of the codes.
The circuit energizes a door strike
solenoid only when the correct 10-dig-
84
Silicon Chip
it master code or 4-digit access code
(one of ten) is entered via a numeric
keypad. LED1 is used to acknowledge
key presses; LED2 blinks when the
door is unlocked. A 16x2 LCD module
is used as a status display.
The heart of this lock is Atmel ATmega8A AVR microcontroller IC1. The
digit keys on the keypad are used for
code input. Hash (#) is pressed after
the master, ID or the access code is entered. The asterisk (*) key clears the
entered code.
The micro scans the keypad constantly and will unlock the door when
the right sequence is entered. The 10
expected access codes are stored in the
micro’s EEPROM and can be changed
by authorised users whenever needed.
Australia’s electronics magazine
There are ten independent 4-digit
ID codes for ten users. The default ID
code for user 1 is 1001, 1002 for user
2, up to 1010 for user 10 (these can be
modified in the software).
To enter or change an access code,
apply power and wait for the “Enter
Code” message. Upon power-up, the
unit only accepts the master code.
Enter the 10-digit master code,
which defaults to 1234567890, and
press #. The keystrokes appear in
the middle of the second line of the
display as asterisks [***********].
If the code is entered in the correct
sequence, it will momentarily show
“Access Granted”, and the solenoid
is energised. LED2 blinks to confirm
the unlocked status.
A progress bar appears on the left
side of the second line, slowly progress-
siliconchip.com.au
ing to the right over five seconds. Then
the solenoid returns to the locked position, and the display shows: “Enter ID
Code” on the first line. A counter also
appears on the left side of the second
line counting down from 30 to 0 over
15 seconds.
This is the time limit to enter one of
the 10 ID codes. Again, the keystrokes
appear in the middle of the second line
as asterisks [*****]. For instance, the
user enters the ID code: 1001 for user
1 and presses #. The display will clear
to show “Access Granted” momentarily and then “Enter New Code”. Again,
the counter appears on the left side of
the second line counting down from
30 to 0 over 15 seconds.
You then enter a new four-digit access code and press *. The LCD will
momentarily display “New Code
Saved”. This is the access code for
user 1, which is stored in the EEPROM.
Then the display returns to “Enter
Code”. To verify, input the new access
code and press # to unlock the door.
The same procedure is followed for
the other nine users. It is also possible
to use the code lock without entering
the 10-digit master code by inserting
jumper JP1.
If an incorrect 10-digit master code
or a 4-digit ID code or access code is
entered and # is pressed, the display
shows “Access Denied” momentarily.
A progress bar appears on the second
line of the LCD progressing from left to
right in three seconds. Then the LCD
clears to display “Enter Code”, and the
user can try again.
If three wrong access codes, ID codes
or master codes are entered in succession, then all codes are disabled for
about one minute (this time can be
modified in the software).
The circuit is powered from a 12V
DC supply with diode D1 for reverse
polarity protection and REG1 to derive
a regulated 5V rail for the LCD and micro. N-channel Mosfet Q1 drives the
door strike solenoid, which runs directly from the 12V supply and has a
parallel diode, D2, to absorb back-EMF
spikes when it switches off.
To change any of the initial ID codes
or the 10-digit master code, you will
need to modify the software. This can
be downloaded from the Silicon Chip
website. It can be compiled into a HEX
file and uploaded using the free AVR
Studio software.
Mahmood Alimohammadi,
Tehran, Iran. ($70.00)
siliconchip.com.au
Micromite-based Chiming Clock
This chiming clock is based on
Geoff Graham's Touchscreen Super
Clock (July 2016; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10004) which uses the hardware of his Micromite LCD BackPack
(February 2016; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/9812) along with a DS3231
real-time clock module or GPS module. You can also build it using the
V2 BackPack with USB (May 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10652).
I have added a DFPlayer Mini
MP3 player module, which was described in the December 2018 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/306).
That article showed how to hook
the module up to a Micromite. So I
have combined the Super Clock circuit with that one to produce the circuit shown here.
The GPS module is optional, but it
saves you having to set the time and
also ensures long-term accuracy.
The result is a Super Clock which
Australia’s electronics magazine
plays an MP3 file of clock chimes
on the hour, every hour. The modified software and chime audio files
are available as a download package
from siliconchip.com.au ("Chiming
Clock.zip").
This package contains a full MMBasic file, which includes comments, and
a “Crunched” file which has all the unnecessary bits removed, as the full file
is too big for the Micromite memory.
You can upload the full file if you're
using MMedit, as long as you set the
"Crunch on upload" option.
I used a 7.5cm, 8W speaker connected between pins 6 & 8 of the DFPlayer
module. I had trouble with the sound
level control of the DFPlayer module,
so I found it easier to set it to maximum and fitted a 120W resistor in series with the speaker, to reduce the
output level by 12dB.
Ray Saegenschnitter,
Huntly, Vic. ($75)
April 2020 85
Two-wheel self-balancing robot
A two-wheeled robot, the most common example of which is the Segway
scooter, is essentially a type of inverted
pendulum. Fast reactions are needed
to keep it upright and stable, just like
trying to balance a vertical stick on
your hand.
This design for a simple two-wheel
robot uses an MPU-6050 inertial measurement unit which includes a 3-axis
accelerometer and 3-axis gyroscope
(Altronics Cat Z6324; as part of a GY521 module). This provides the feedback required to decide when to drive
the wheels, to keep the robot upright.
The wheels are independently driven with separate motors, allowing the
robot to not only balance but move
forwards or backwards, and turn left
or right.
Theoretically, only data from the gyros (mounted in the middle of the two
wheels) is needed to control the robot.
However, the gyros readings drift over
time, so they must be periodically re-
86
Silicon Chip
calibrated. This is done with the help
of the three-axis accelerometer.
The greater the angle from vertical,
the greater the speed with which the
motors are driven. As the angle of shift
reduces to zero, the speed reduces.
Thus, the top of the cart moves like
a pendulum and maintains balance.
This feedback control is achieved with
a PID (proportional/integral/differential) loop.
The battery should be slung underneath to prevent the centre of gravity
from being too high, although the prototype was run from an external power
supply via a long figure-8 cable.
The motors are low-cost 12V, 300
RPM geared & brushed DC motors,
fitted with 100mm wheels. Initially,
the performance was great, but as the
gears wear, they develop backlash,
which makes balancing more difficult.
The use of brushless DC motors would
solve this, but their control is significantly more complex; you would need
Australia’s electronics magazine
a separate controller for each motor.
The motors are driven by a 2A-rated L298 dual H-bridge IC. I tried the
1A-rated L293, and although it could
handle the current, it got very hot.
Diodes D1-D8 are essential to absorb
back-EMF from the motor coils, which
would otherwise destroy the L298 in
short order. You can purchase a prebuilt module with the L298, eight diodes and 5V regulator for around $2
from the following link:
w w w. a l i e x p r e s s . c o m / i t e m /
32994608743.html
The controller is an Arduino. For the
software, I used Jeff Rowberg’s libraries for the MPU-6050 IMU. The MPU6050 module needs to be aligned with
its pin header row running along the
front/back axis of the robot. The software has three PID coefficients which
can be changed: kp, kd and ki. The default values are OK, but you may find
that changing them improves the stability of your robot.
The Arduino sketch (two_wheel.
ino) is available for download from
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6, along
with a second sketch which calibrates
the gyros (mpu_calibration.ino). Use
the Arduino Library Manager to install
the MPU-6050 library before compiling and uploading either sketch. It’s
also available from GitHub: github.
com/jrowberg/i2cdevlib/tree/master/
Arduino/MPU6050
Run the calibration sketch first and
follow the prompts in the Arduino
Serial Monitor with a 115,200 baud
rate. It will produce a set of coefficients that you then add to the main
sketch around line 55, replacing the
line which reads:
int MPUOffsets[6] = { … };
You can see a video of my robot in
action at:
siliconchip.com.au/Videos/Twowheel+balancing+robot
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($80)
Self-resetting intruder alarm
This device is designed to detect intruders. When a beam of light focused
on the light-dependent resistor (LDR)
is interrupted, this alarm produces
loud noise for about ten seconds and
then automatically resets.
You may find this device useful
in circumstances where the intruder
need not be a thief; it may be a family member or an ‘expected’ person.
This circuit is based on a 555 timer
IC, used as a multivibrator, and a transistor-based audio oscillator.
When the light beam is being focused
on the LDR, its resistance remains low
and hence trigger pin 2 of IC1 is held
high, so the output at pin 3 remains low.
When the beam is interrupted, the
LDR resistance increases and a momentary negative pulse is applied to
the trigger pin. Output pin 3 then goes
high for approximately 10 seconds, as
determined by the 100µF timing capacitor and 100kW charging resistor.
With output pin 3 high, the ~3kHz
audio oscillator based around transistors Q1 and Q2 is powered. This
applies an AC waveform to the piezo
transducer, producing a shrill noise
and also lighting LED1, which flashes at a high frequency, so it appears to
be solidly lit. The oscillator frequensiliconchip.com.au
cy is set by the combination of 22nF
capacitor and 10kW resistor. It works
as follows.
When pin 3 of IC1 goes high, the
22nF capacitor charges through the
270kW and 10kW resistor. Eventually,
the voltage at the base of NPN transistor Q1 exceeds about 0.6V and so
Q1 switches on, in turn switching on
PNP transistor Q2, which pulls the anode of LED1 up (also connected to the
piezo buzzer).
This positive swing is coupled to the
base of Q1 by the 22nF capacitor, so
Q1 and Q2 remain on for a time, but
eventually, this capacitor discharges
Australia’s electronics magazine
through Q1’s base-emitter junction.
Eventually, Q1 and Q2 switch off and
the anode of LED1 drops close to 0V.
This also pulls the base voltage of Q1
down, and it takes some time for the
capacitor to recharge and bring the
base back up to 0.6V.
It is the combination of this recharge
time and the time that sufficient base
current is supplied to Q1 to keep it
switched on that sets the frequency to
around 3kHz. The duty cycle is about
20%, as determined by the ratio of
those two time constants.
Raj. K. Gorkhali,
Hetadu, Nepal. ($65)
April 2020 87
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
MachineryHouse don’t want you to buy new drill bits!
Even though MachineryHouse do sell an extensive range
of twist drill bits, they’d much rather you sharpen those
blunt or broken drills that you’ve thrown (in disgust!) into
the “dead drill” box – with their user-friendly, hand-operated HAFCO EDBD-13 Drill Sharpener.
It restores blunt drill bits back to their original condition.
This quality grinder can sharpen both metric & imperial
drill bits, with a drill capacity of 3 – 13mm or 1/8” – 1/2”
respectively. It is also capable of split point sharpening and
grinds two flute drills of unlimited length.
It features a single adjustable drill chuck-holding system,
118° fixed drill point angle as well as a built-in drill bit setting guide to ensure correct relief cutting angle sharpening.
The diamond impregnated wheel is
driven by an 80W, 230V motor rotating
at 4200rpm, that provides a superior
grind finish and hones the drill bit to
a sharp cutting edge.
To learn more about this great product or to order your very own drill
sharpener please visit one of the MachineryHouse showrooms in Brisbane,
Sydney, Melbourne or Perth, or go online
to www.machineryhouse.com.au/d070
Contact:
MachineryHouse
Brisbane – Sydney – Melbourne – Perth
(07) 3715 2200 (02) 9890 9111 (03) 9212 4422 (08) 9373 9999
Web: www.machineryhouse.com.au
Check your hearing yourself with this smart online test.
It’s important to catch hearing issues early. But many
people are put off by the stigma,
expense and inconvenience of visiting an audiologist.
Blamey Saunders Hears has a
DIY alternative to the traditional in-clinic hearing test. You can
take their free, clinically validated Speech Perception Test (SPT)
online, from the privacy of home.
It’s no standard hearing test.
Tests you take in a clinic measure how well you hear computergenerated tones and beeps. The
SPT gives you information that’s
more relevant to your daily listening experience.
It measures how well you hear the different sounds that
make up spoken words. And it
takes less than 10 minutes.
You receive an instant, easyto-understand interpretation of
your results. And, your free report
shows if Blamey Saunders technology is a match for your needs.
Check your hearing yourself
at: blameysaunders.com.au/test
Contact:
BlameySaunders
364 Albert St, East Melbourne Vic 3002
Tel: 1300 443 279
Web: www.blameysaunders.com.au
New downloadable eBooks from Mouser cover electric vehicles, artificial intelligence
Mouser has released two new eBooks, one covering electric vehicles
and one looking at artificial intelligence (AI).
“Electrification of the Vehicle” explores new components, technologies and strategies for the design and development of electric vehicles. To
read, visit www.mouser.com/news/bourns-ev-ebook/mobile/index.html
“Imagine the Possibilities”, written in collaboration with NXP Semiconductors, examines the myriad potential applications of artificial intelligence (AI) and identifying specific products for AI and machine learning (ML) solutions.
To read this one, see www.mouser.com/news/nxp-ai-ebook-2019/
mobile/index.html
88
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
MMCUAV’s drones used in the battle
against the coronavirus outbreak
The beginning of 2020 is special to most Chinese. When
a sudden coronavirus outbreak occurred in Wuhan, China, all cities joined the effort to fight it.
Shenzhen MicroMultiCopter (MMC) quickly launched
their UAV prevention solution. They supplied a service
team of over 200 people, rushing to the front line with
over 100 drones deployed in many cities such as Shanghai, Guangzhou, Zhaoqing and other areas to participate
in the battle, by which the risk of spreading among frontline staff has been greatly reduced.
Drones are capable of 360° patrols to observe the
ground condition through 40x zoom cameras. Crowds
and those who don’t wear masks in public places are
found and dispersed by the commanders through onboard megaphones.
Daily broadcasting by drones is carrying out in different communities.
From large areas such as stations and supermarkets
down to small courtyards, where there is a need, MMC
drones are used to spray disinfectant in public places.
Compared to the traditional way, using drones can
avoid direct contact especially in those places requiring
regular disinfection.
A drone with a thermal camera fitted can automatically sense each person through high accuracy infrared
imaging. This has been widely used in crowded areas to
assist in onsite management and evacuation if required.
Since 1st February, MMC teams have been working
with traffic police to monitor traffic flow. With larger
coverage than fixed cameras, MMC drones greatly helped
commanders figure out solutions quickly.
As a company with complete supply chain of industrial UAV, MMC provides not only complete solutions but
also UAV key parts
and OEM/ODM coContact:
operation.
MMCUAV
MMC is commitMMC Tech Park, No.1 Yihe Road,
ted to boosting auShilong Community, Shiyan Street,
tomation level so
Bao’an District, Shenzhen City,
people can work in
Guangdong Province, PR China, 518108
greater safety, with
Tel: +86 75526916770
lower cost and by
Website: www.mmcuav.com
higher efficiency.
siliconchip.com.au
New A365
cloud-based viewer
Altium’s new A365 cloud-based viewer redefines the way that
printed circuit board designs are shared between designers,
part suppliers, and manufacturers.
The A365 Viewer allows users to search for, select, crossprobe and inspect components and nets while moving seamlessly between schematic, PCB and 3D views of their board.
Using the A365 Viewer requires no CAD tools or experience. The A365 Viewer is designed to work with multiple eCAD
formats, currently supporting Autodesk️ Eagle and Altium Designer. Other popular PCB design software formats will be
supported in the near future.
Adding the Altium 365 Viewer has significantly enhanced the
user experience when navigating the product documentation
in the Altium website. Now Arduino users can freely browse
schematics, PCB layout and even 3D models of the Arduino
boards and modules online, without the need to download or
install anything additional. The capability of being CAD-agnostic will shortly allow Arduino to add the Contact:
online design viewer Altium
to every product page, Level 6, Tower B, The Zenith,
including the ones 821 Pacific Hwy, Chatswood NSW 2067
designed in Autodesk Tel: 1800 312 665
Website: www.altium.com
Eagle.
Self-driving cars are coming closer
. . . and faster!
With automotive self-driving systems evolving from 60km/h
to 100km/h and beyond, LiDAR sensors are playing an increasing role in the fusion of vehicle sensors for their ability
to provide accurate distance measurement of objects.
With more than twice the bandwidth and the ability to accommodate 33 percent more channels within the same LiDAR module size compared to the closest competitor, the new
Maxim MAX40660/MAX40661 transimpedance amplifiers
(TIAs) provide optical receiver designers with higher-resolution images that enable faster autonomous driving systems.
The system size of the MAX40026 high-speed comparator
plus the MAX40660/1 TIAs is 5mm2 smaller than the closest
competitive solution. These ICs meet the stringent safety requirements of the automotive industry with AEC-Q100 qualification, enhanced electrostatic discharge (ESD) performance
and failure modes, effects and diagnostic analysis (FMEDA) to
support ISO 26262 certification at the system level.
An evaluation kit is available from Maxim and their authorised distribu- Contact:
tors.
Maxim Integrated
F o r m o r e i n - 160 Rio Robles San Jose, CA 95134 USA
f o r m a t i o n , v i s i t Tel: 0011 1 408-601-1000
http://bit.ly/Maxim_
Website: www.maximintegrated.com
LiDAR _solutions
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 89
Vintage Radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Tecnico 1950 Model 1050
At 9.6kg, this is a heavyweight table radio and
it has suitably imposing
styling. One could even
accuse it of belonging
to the early Brutalist
period. Fortunately,
the splendid walnutcharacter Bakelite case
with decorative slots
rescues it from being
overly austere.
In the Australian context, the iconic
styling of this model is unique. However, Tecnico was in partnership with
Bendix USA at the time, and the features of contemporary American Bendix radios influenced this radio.
The perforated metal speaker grille
copies Bendix radios and is painted in
dappled shades, like military camouflage. Continuing with this theme, the
case has the look of a World War Two
concrete ‘pillbox’. (Military structures
of the WW2 were a major inspiration
on Brutalism).
Other post-war manufacturers also
offered radios with military-themed
styling, particularly in portables. The
mellow tone of the baffled Rola 6-9H
speaker is in harmony with the impressive image of this radio.
In keeping with the new demand for
colourful radios at the time, the case
was also available in shades of cream,
green and blue with various degrees
of mottling. The model shown here
has four front panel knobs for power
on/off (full DPDT switching), volume,
tone and tuning.
90
Silicon Chip
A smaller case on the styled-alike
Model 1140 had only two knobs, offering control of volume and tuning (see
the book Radio Days by Peter Sheridan
& Ritchie Singer, p243, https://trove.
nla.gov.au/version/46138998).
The only resemblance between the
models is in the case. The smaller
Model 1140 has four valves, all different from the Model 1050, and the
chassis is at 90° to the base.
You might like to compare this set
to the 1946 Tecnico Aristocrat (Model
651) I described recently, in the February 2020 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/12350). You will find that
the power supply and output stage
are virtually identical, however, the
front-end valve lineup is different and
some of the circuit details are varied
between the two sets.
Circuit details
The circuit for this set is shown in
Fig.1. The Model 1050 circuit is an
evolution of previous Tecnico designs,
but modernised with miniature valves
for the RF section.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The HT rectifier and pentode output
remain as octal-based valves. The circuit diagram also appears in the Australian Official Radio Service Manual
(AORSM) volume 9 for 1950.
There is no shortwave tuning, so
the aerial feeds into a single aerial
coil with a tuned secondary. This
then feeds into the grid of the 7-pin
6BE6 converter valve. The 6BE6 was
released in 1946 by RCA and was subsequently used over many years, manufactured under licence by various
companies. The 6BE6 in this radio is
a Philips Miniwatt.
The remaining valves were sourced
from AWV, a subsidiary of AWA (in
turn affiliated with RCA).
A Hartley oscillator is used, shown
below the 6BE6, with a single tuned
coil feeding the oscillator signal into
the 6BE6’s oscillator grid. A tap on the
oscillator coil connected to the cathode sustains oscillation. The 455kHz
heterodyne signal passes to the first
IF transformer.
siliconchip.com.au
negative feedback of the higher audio
frequencies (passed by C27, 0.05µF)
via 500kW potentiometer R17, as a
tone control. The more of these highfrequency signals are fed back, the
greater the top-cut. This works well,
as judged by my ears.
The HT of 280V from the 5Y3 dual
rectifier cathode is filtered by C26
(8µF) and C31 (16µF). The total power
consumption of this radio was 54W.
With a rated maximum of 120mA, the
5Y3 is well suited to the set’s 75mA
HT requirement. The 5Y3 is an octal
repackaging of the widely-used 4-pin
type 80 from the 1930s.
Construction
The rear of the Tecnico 1050 chassis showcases the miniature valves, power
transformer, tuning gang, 9-inch speaker etc.
The 6BA6 IF amplifier is a 7-pin
miniature remote-cutoff pentode, used
as an RF amplifier in standard broadcast and FM receivers. It was also released in 1946. The low value of gridto-plate capacitance minimises regenerative effects, while high transconductance provides good signal-tonoise ratios. Gain for this stage is up
to 200 times with optimum grid bias.
The output of the second IF transformer (L7) is detected by one of the
diodes housed in the 6AV6 valve. The
demodulated signal is then passed by
R6 (50kW) and the PU shorting link to a
500kW volume-control potentiometer
(R7). Audio then feeds to the grid of
the 6AV6 triode for preamplification.
The PU shorting link can be removed to allow audio from an external
source to be fed directly into the set’s
audio path, allowing it to be used as
an amplifier/speaker, without the radio front-end.
The second 6AV6 diode receives
signal from the RF section via C21
(25pF). The negative voltage at this diode is proportional to signal strength,
and this provides negative feedback
to the grids of the first two valves via
R8 (2MW).
This automatic gain control (AGC)
voltage is modified by the small reverse potential (relative to Earth) generated across R9 (15W). This provides
a default grid bias for the 6BE6 and
6BA6 valves and delays the onset of
AGC-reduced amplification until a
siliconchip.com.au
signal of moderate strength is tuned.
For the output stage, Tecnico used
a configuration inherited from other
Tecnico designs (eg, the 1946 Model
651 described previously), with a 6V6
operating in Class-A. This design uses
The rear of the chassis has five
spring-clamp terminals: Aerial, Earth,
Earth, PU input and Radio output (for
linking to PU input). The radio was not
originally Earthed via the mains supply.
The output transformer is mounted on the elliptical Rola model 69H
speaker. The speaker is secured to the
front panel, thereby providing some
baffling. Rola also provided the power
choke that is mounted below the chassis. The choke is stamped “OCT 1950”,
so this radio can be firmly dated.
This side view shows the 5Y3GT rectifier valve
with the 6V6G output amplifier adjacent. The
speaker is mounted on a flat sheet of Masonite,
and the curved decorative grille is in front of that.
The control spindles are custom-made with
extended length, to reach forward from the
conventional rectangular steel chassis.
The set also had two small lamps
to provide a backlight for the dial;
these aren’t shown on the
circuit.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 91
Fig.1: the Tecnico Model 1050 circuit diagram. The printing for this
diagram was a lot clearer than the 651, so it has been reproduced without
alteration. Much of the circuit is similar, but note the jumper labelled PU below the
6AV6. This allowed external audio to be fed into the radio when removed.
Restoration
92
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
The case was in excellent condition
and was given a rub-over with Armor
All protectant to enhance the gloss.
The electrical restoration proved more
demanding.
Tecnico manufactured the radio with
a figure-8 two core flex held against the
inside of the chassis by a simple knot.
This was standard practice at the time.
A length of new black cotton-covered
three-core flex was installed as the
mains lead, clamped to the chassis.
This cord is a modern reproduction to
retain a period look, but has the contemporary colour codes for each wire.
At initial switch-on, the power draw
rapidly rose to 110W, so I promptly
switched it off. The rapid increase to
such a high power is possible because
the 5Y3 is directly heated (the heater
and the cathode are the same filament).
Indirectly heated rectifiers, like a 6V4,
take more time to warm up to conduct
high currents.
The high power use suggested the
failure of an electrolytic capacitor connected between the supply rails, ie,
a filter capacitor. C26 had been previously replaced with a Ducon type
common in the 1960s. This was cold
to the touch, but C31 (made by United
Capacitors) was slightly warm.
The reason this was warm but not
hot is that with a low DC resistance,
due to failure of the dielectric layer,
most of the power is dissipated in the
5Y3 valve and choke L8. Either the
valve or the choke can fail in this circumstance. Happily, they survived.
I replaced both C26 and C31 with
new 22µF 400V electrolytics. The
power consumption then dropped to a
much more normal 59W. The 6V6 grid
measured 5mV, indicating no leakage
through C22 (0.05µF). The 6V6 plate
was at 222V, and the screen measured
240V. The 250W cathode resistor (R19)
generated a grid bias of -10.6V.
That all seemed right, but the radio
sounded sick. There was intermittent
distortion and the volume alternated
between high and low of its own accord. Sometimes there was crackle.
Both the volume and tone controls did
little much of the time.
I was immediately suspicious of the
volume control potentiometer’s wiper contact resistance. So I removed
the pot (made by Tecnico) and overhauled it. This resulted in faultless
performance of the potentiometer on
the bench.
siliconchip.com.au
To double-check whether it was the
pot that was at fault, I soldered a new
500kW unit in, but the symptoms were
unaltered. So I reinstalled the original
pot, because it has a long shaft tailored
to reach the front panel.
The paper capacitors were my next
suspects. Progressively replacing
them produced no audible change,
although the power use did fall from
59W to 54W.
This left the mica capacitors as the
next in the line of usual suspects. Eureka! The first mica to be replaced
was C19 (100pF), manufactured by
Simplex. The result was dramatic,
with everything now performing as it
should. That faulty mica was stamped
100pF but measured 220pF with a series resistance of 100kW. With 100V
across it, it showed intermittent failure, passing up to 3mA.
C19 bypasses any unwanted RF in
the audio output of the 6AV6 plate to
Earth. Because it was so leaky, it had
been shorting the audio and the plate
HT as well, thereby generating all of
the symptoms.
As others have noticed, mica capacitors are now increasingly failing, after
up to 90 years of fault-free service. If
a vintage radio has crackle then, as I
need to remind myself, a mica capacitor should be the first suspect.
Mica is a silicate mineral that can accommodate small numbers of various
metal atoms in a matrix of silicon and
oxygen atoms. 37 chemically distinct
forms are recognised. The crystalline
structure of mica takes the form of layers that can be split with nearly perfect
cleavage into thin sheets.
Silver can be plated onto opposite
faces of a thin wafer of mica and joined
to pig-tail leads either by soldering
or simple physical contact to make a
mica capacitor. Mica is possibly most
familiar as the support sheet used to
retain the heating wire in old electric
toasters. Mica has generally high resistance to electrical breakdown under
high voltage, dependant on thickness.
Failure of mica capacitors over time
can be due to (1) defects in the mica
(mica has many grades from poor
to high quality), (2) growth of silver
whiskers from the electrodes, (3) failure of the pig-tail to silver joint and (4)
ingress of moisture or reactive gasses
into the encapsulated capacitor.
The mesh behind the rear grille bars
restricts heat transfer, so the gap
below the handle at the top is the
major ventilation port.
All of these become more likely
with increasing age. For a rigorous
treatment of the causes of failure, see
the paper titled “Some mechanisms of
failure of capacitors with mica dielectrics” at: siliconchip.com.au/link/aav9
I feel that the 12 capacitors replaced
in this restoration represented good
value, restoring full function and guaranteeing future reliability. The result
was an iconic radio that delivers a
pleasant listening experience.
But wait, there’s more!
Shown below is the underside of the 1050’s chassis after all the paper and some of the mica capacitors were replaced.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 93
Tecnico
Tecnico 1951
1951 “Baby
“Baby Fortress”
Fortress” Model
Model 1140
1140
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Here is a short bonus
article on a Tecnico
Model 1140. The only
similarity between this
radio and the Model
1050 is in the case
design. The restored
radio does not have a
truly “authentic” look
as the case should be
white, and the knobs
and grille are not
originals.
A
lthough this radio used a similar
overall case design as the model
1050, it was significantly scaled down.
It is a modest 270mm wide and weighs
4.9kg. By comparison, its 'big broth-
er' model 1050 is 400mm wide and
weighs 9.6kg.
Electrically and mechanically, it is
an entirely different radio. This one
was created as a budget radio for the
The 6CK6 output pentode is located below the power transformer. The loop coil
antenna can be seen to the right of the 5-inch Rola model 5C speaker. From the
mid-1950s, ferrite rods replaced woven coil antennas.
94
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
kitchen, rather than an imposing table
radio for the lounge.
The model numbers used by Tecnico combined the year of release (1 =
1941) with the number of valves, plus
a gratuitous zero at the end. Hence
the model 1050 is a five-valve radio
released in 1950, and the model 1140
is a four-valve radio released in 1951.
The example shown here was acquired lacking the front grille and
knobs, so it needed some restoration
work. In this case the replacement
knobs were taken from an HMV stereogram. The genuine grille and knobs
are the same as for the model 1050.
The radio has an unconventional
vertical chassis, more commonly seen
in TV sets. In good reception areas,
an external aerial was not needed because the primary tuning coil is also
an antenna, as is common in portable
models from this era.
The chassis rear view shows the
valves in this particular radio. In
production, there were opportunistic valve substitutions, and some are
shown on the official circuit diagram.
At variance with the official circuit
shown in Fig.1, the output pentode
in this radio is a 6CK6 (designated as
EL83 in Europe) that is rarely seen in
Australian radios. The 6CK6 can be
pushed to 9W audio output, so it is
siliconchip.com.au
Point-to-point wiring was used, ►
with the smaller components
mounted on tagstrips, as was
common in 1950s radios. The
switch at the back is a top-cut
tone control (S1) which switches
capacitors connected to the
primary of the output transformer.
(This photo was taken before all
paper capacitors were replaced.)
mismatched with this application.
It is a nine-pin valve, described
as a video power pentode capable
of plate voltages up to 300V (the
plate was measured at 220V in this
radio). Eight of the nine pins are
functional, allowing individual
connection to all grids as well as
an internal shield.
The radio shown here needed a
replacement 6AR7 due to an open
filament in the original valve. All
paper capacitors were replaced.
For its compact size and given
the limitations of the Rola 5-inch
speaker, it performs well.
SC
6X4
6CK6
ECH33
6AR7
Fig.1 (below): details on the 1140 can be found at https://vintage-radio.com.au/home.asp?f=3&th=587 including how to do
the alignment. We’ve reproduced the circuit shown in that link as it’s the best quality scan available. It’s important to note
that the valve line-up differs a bit from the actual radio shown, with a 6CK6 used instead of the N78 (and other substitutes).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2020 95
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Upgrading Micromite
firmware
I have now purchased and built several Micromite kits of varying models,
with the objective of building solar system monitors. I now need to upgrade
the firmware to the latest 5.x version,
where I can utilise the LCD function
as well as some of the other most useful additions.
I can easily download the required
versions of the firmware (.hex files and
documentation), but trying to find the
Bootloader.exe file has become an impossibility. It was supposed to come
with the download but is nowhere to
be seen. I’ve seen a panel where it is
called Silicon Chip Bootloader v1.0. So
I searched on the Silicon Chip website
without any luck either. Am I missing
something? (T. T., Para Hills West, SA)
• You seem to have the Micromite and
Maximite confused. The Bootloader.
exe file is used to upload new firmware
to a Maximite computer (latest version
4.5C), and it is part of the Maximite
firmware download at: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/6/930 (or find it on Geoff
Graham’s website, http://geoffg.net).
This bootloader is not used to update the firmware on a Micromite (latest version 5.05.02). You instead use
the onboard Microbridge (if it’s a V2/3
BackPack), or lacking that, an external
Microbridge (May 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10648), PICkit 3/4 or
equivalent PIC32 programmer.
We have not heard of a Maximite
which can drive an LCD panel (except for perhaps a basic alphanumeric
type). That seems to be a feature exclusive to the Micromites. The Maximite utilises a VGA monitor instead.
Designing moving
magnet actuators
I just finished reading the very
interesting Serviceman’s Log column in your September 2019 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11919).
It’s about Dave Thompson repairing a
speaker coil set.
96
Silicon Chip
I am currently gathering information
to replace the (noisy/energy wasteful) air drives for handheld and machine mounted “planishing hammers”
drives for automotive panel shaping
and repair machines. So I found parts
of Dave’s article fascinating. These
types of actuators are being used more
and more in everyday equipment.
I want to use moving-magnet voice
coil actuators instead of moving coil
types, because of the possibility of the
coils being shaken to pieces from the
repeated sudden stop forces involved.
I have found some articles on building industrial-type moving coil actuators from Google searches, but there is
very little information about moving
magnet actuators.
Could you maybe do an article about
these moving magnet type actuators,
or point me in the direction of finding
out more information to enable me to
build my own? Commercial actuators
are very expensive to purchase for experimental use.
I want to build a handheld unit in
an alloy case about 75mm round, with
variable stroke (0-4 mm) and frequency
(0-700Hz) at about 550g force (5.4N).
The fixed unit would be quite a bit
larger, with variable stroke (0-25 mm)
and frequency (0-700Hz) and about
4.5kg force (44N).
Thank you. I enjoy the magazine.
(H. H., Hampton, Qld)
• Moving magnet voice coil actuators
are a bit outside our area of knowledge.
We realise that they differ from a standard solenoid, but perhaps a solenoid
could be adapted, using some of the
mechanical parts. Here are a couple of
links that may be helpful. The thesis
is quite comprehensive:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0p
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0q
Wide-range LC Meter
giving odd readings
I am having some problems with
the Wide-Range LC meter (June 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11099).
I have assembled everything and finally got a read-out on the LCD. But
the readings I’m getting are wildly inconsistent.
I am testing 100nF 50V DC ceramic caps, and the readings I am getting
range from 38.342pF to 632pF. I’m fairly confident that everything is soldered
correctly, and I got all the parts listed
Inductor core types
On page 109 of the August 2019
issue, you suggested (in response to
a question in Ask Silicon Chip) that
powdered-iron core inductors would
be better to use for the Class-D speaker filter in Dan Amos’ Digital Clock
Radio project than ferrite types. But I
am having trouble finding any reference to powdered iron-cored inductors in large toroidal formats.
There are plenty of ferrite-cored
SMD inductors to choose from.
Can you suggest a part number for
what you had in mind? (S. S., Barrington, NSW)
• Most of the pre-wound toroidal
inductors supplied by Jaycar and
Altronics are compressed powAustralia’s electronics magazine
dered iron types. The cores usually
look green or yellow due to a coating that’s applied to them. They
also sell the bare toroids so you can
wind your own inductors on this
type of core.
Note that we have seen retailers
incorrectly list powdered-iron inductors as having ferrite cores. Unless the core looks dark grey/black,
it’s unlikely to be ferrite. Ferrite
cores are normally much larger than
powdered-iron cores for the same
inductor value and current rating.
In exchange for this, they usually
offer lower losses, especially at
higher frequencies (due to reduced
eddy current losses).
siliconchip.com.au
Wiring Harness Solutions
B-
B-
B+
B+
Ampec Technologies Pty Ltd
siliconchip.com.au
Tel: 02 8741 5000 Email: sales<at>ampec.com.au
April 2020 97
Australia’s electronics magazine
in the right ranges. Is there anything
common that you guys have seen other readers encounter commonly with
this project? (P. B., Invercargill, NZ)
• We have had two or three people
where the relays they have gotten are
a different type to what we used. In
some of these cases, we suspect that a
variant of the reed relay with a slightly different pinout ended up mixed
in with the correct relays at the parts
retailer. So we suggest that you thoroughly check the relays for correct operation. You should hear them clicking
as the unit cycles through its modes.
The other component most likely to
give trouble is the comparator. Perhaps
you could try swapping this out. Try
to avoid cheap LM311 comparators
from sites like eBay as we’ve had reports from some people that they may
not work as well as the genuine ones.
If you have a scope, you can check
that the test waveforms look correct. If
that doesn’t lead anywhere, please send
photos of your PCB and the LCD while
a measurement is occurring, so we can
check if you’ve missed anything. The
serial port for the Arduino also produces some debugging information which
may help diagnose your problem.
Water Tank Level
Meter questions
I built your solar-powered Water
Tank Level Meter with WiFi (February 2018; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10963) and have some questions about it. Is this device directly
powered by the solar panels, with a
battery backup, or is it directly powered by the battery and then recharged
from the solar panels?
Once the battery is flat, my device
will not operate. How long would you
expect the solar panels to recharge the
battery – hours, days or weeks? What
is your experience?
Also, is it possible to extend the reporting period from 10 minutes to say
every 1 or 2 hours? Would this increase
the battery life? (A. C., Largs Bay, SA)
• The unit is always powered from
the battery, but when the battery is
being charged from the solar panel(s),
power is effectively diverted from the
panel(s). As long as the current from
the panel(s) exceeds the board’s current consumption, the battery will still
charge when the unit is active.
That your unit won’t operate with
a flat battery suggests that your panel
98
Silicon Chip
cannot deliver enough current to both
charge the battery and power the unit
at the same time. But consider that
it will typically take a little time for
the terminal voltage of a flat battery
to rise to the point where the circuit
will operate.
The unit can operate with a flat battery as long as there is sufficient energy
from the panel(s). It’s best to choose a
battery/panel combination which will
rarely result in a flat battery, to ensure
a good life.
The single panel used on our prototype worked well enough during
testing, but was ultimately not large
enough since the location where we
ended up mounting it did not get full
sun for many hours per day. In this
case, it is better to use two or more
panels in parallel, combined with
schottky diodes (or one larger panel),
as they will recharge the battery more
quickly. These panels are not expensive, but you will need a large enclosure to fit them all.
Yes, you could increase the reporting period to one or two hours. One of
two functions are used to set this period, either ESP.deepSleep() or delay().
The maximum time for deepSleep is
just over an hour (siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab0r) while the maximum time
for delay() appears to be around 49
days (siliconchip.com.au/link/ab0s).
It would increase battery life a bit,
especially if you’re using the deep
sleep option. The difference may not
be huge because it generally only takes
the unit a few seconds to send an update. So with a ten minute, interval, it
may be active around 2% of the time.
With a two hour interval, you reduce
that to well under 1%, but the power
spent in sleep will become the limiting factor.
If you want maximum battery life, I
suggest you take advantage of the deep
sleep option.
WiFi burglar alarm
wanted
I wonder if you ever thought of doing an alarm project. You could use
an ESP32 (which has built-in WiFi)
in conjunction with RCWL-0516 microwave-based motion sensor board
described by Jim Rowe in the February 2018 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10966).
I bought a few of the detector boards
after seeing Jim’s article, and they seem
Australia’s electronics magazine
to be very sensitive and work well.
Used with an ESP32 or WiFi-enabled
Arduino etc, it would make a neat
alarm project.
The reason I suggest this is that it
might be very suitable for unattended
premises, like a small factory, holiday
home or even one’s own home when
away. Keep up the great work at Silicon Chip, I’m a subscriber and look
forward to it each month. (G. P., Narre
Warren, Vic)
• Jaycar have published a WiFi burglar alarm design. See: www.jaycar.
com.au/intruder-alert
Motor Speed Controller
queries
I’m an electronics enthusiast, and
I’m trying to build your High-Power
Motor Speed Controller from the January/February 2017 issue of Silicon
Chip magazine (siliconchip.com.au/
Series/309). But I can’t find a source
for the IRS21850S high-side Mosfet
driver. Can I replace this with the
FAN73711 from Fairchild, which
looks similar?
Also, the controller is supposed
to work from a 12V battery. But the
LM2940CT-12 regulator has a minimum input voltage of 13.6V. How do
I get the 12V needed for the Mosfet
driver? (A. D., via email)
• The FAN73711 looks like a direct
copy of the IRS21850S and so it should
be a suitable substitute. But note that
we still have a decent stock of the
original IRS21850S parts for sale in
our Online Shop (siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/7/2139).
The LM2940CT-12 regulator has
a dropout voltage of 0.5V. Including
the series input diode drop due to
D1 (0.7V), the input supply will need
to be above around 13.2V to achieve
a regulated 12V rail. However, IC2
(IRS2185) will work down to 8V, and
the IPP023N10N5 Mosfets fully conduct with a 6V gate voltage. So the input 12V supply would need to drop
down to below about 9.2V before shutting down.
Regulator REG1 is included primarily to allow the circuit to operate from
voltages well above 12V. For example,
with a 48V battery, the battery voltage
variation and properties of zener diode
ZD4 could allow the input to REG1 to
rise above the 20V maximum for IC2
and the Mosfets. REG1 therefore protects those components from damage
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Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14), Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT Micromite Explore 100 (Sept16)
$30 MICROS
PIC32MX695F512L-80I/PF
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT
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VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
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- I/O expander modules (Nov19):
PCA9685 – $6.00 ¦ PCF8574 – $3.00 ¦ MCP23017 – $3.00
- SMD 1206 LEDs, packets of 10 unless stated otherwise (Tiny LED Xmas Tree, Nov19):
yellow – $0.70 ¦ amber – $0.70 ¦ blue – $0.70 ¦ cyan – $1.00 ¦ pink (1 only) – $0.20
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- 23LCV1024-I/P SRAM & MCP73831T (UHF Repeater, May19)
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB M&K Adapator, Feb19)
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8x8 SMD/DIP matrix display – $5.00 ¦ 8-digit 7-segment display – $7.50
- AD9833 DDS modules (Apr17):
gain control (DDS Signal Generator) – $25.00 ¦ no gain control – $15.00
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110mm telescopic antenna (SC5163)
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$30.00
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and all other parts. Green, red or white PCBs are available.
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Programmed micro bundle – PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SO + PIC16F1455-I/SL
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$30.00
$20.00
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hardware, SMD Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other mandatory on-board parts
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and allows them to operate normally
over a wide range of supply voltages.
Boat anti-fouling
transducer placement
I recently built your dual transducer Marine Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling
unit (May & June 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/312) from a Jaycar kit
(Cat KC5536). I am seeking guidance
regarding where on the hull to place
the transducers. The boat is a 28-foot
Bertram. My first thought is to place
the transducers aft and forward near
the keel line. However, such positions
are difficult to access.
More accessible locations are outboard amidships in the engine bays.
This would have the transducers about
two meters apart (one meter each side
of the keel line) and slightly aft of the
centre of the waterline. Please advise
if this configuration would give suitable transducer separation and effective anti-fouling.
Please also advise if the transducer
cable lengths are critical. My application would suit shortened cables
if technically sound. (D. P., Wolumla, NSW)
• Ideally, the transducers should be
placed at either end of the boat. However, locating them amidship two
metres apart would probably provide reasonable ultrasonic coverage.
If this proves not to be as effective
as it should be, one transducer could
be moved forward and the other aft.
The cable lengths between the AntiFouling unit and transducers are not
critical.
MPPT Solar Charger
capacitor selection
I have a question about your MPPT
Solar Charger & Lighting Controller design (February & March 2016;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/296). I
would like to know why the 2200µF
electrolytic capacitors are changed to
470µF for use with 24V solar cells and
a 24V battery. Is that for tuning due to
the switching frequency required, or
due to the physical size of the components? Would 2200µF 50V capacitors work?
Also, do you have the source code
in C for this project?
I want to build this device because
most of my security cameras were
blown up by a cheap solar regulator
that allowed the battery voltage to rise
above 30V. I have four 24V 215W solar cells and six 100Ah 12V batteries,
with a heap of things hanging off them
(7A load at night).
Because I have a continuous load,
normal smart chargers tend to keep
the batteries under charge the whole
time, risking damage to the batteries.
So I have to use an Arduino to control
the charger. (D. V., Salisbury Park, SA)
• The 470µF 63V capacitors used in
the 24V version were selected to fit
in the same space as the 2200µF 25V
capacitors used in the 12V version,
while maintaining sufficient ripple
current handling for reliable operation. You could use four 2200µF 50V
MPTT solar charger has reduced charging current
I built the Switchmode Solar Battery Charger described in Circuit
Notebook, October 2018 (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11274) to use with a
20W solar panel. I left out the sunset
switch as I do not need it.
I designed a PCB, made it using the
laser toner method and assembled
the board without any problems. It
seems to work OK but adjusting VR1
was a bit tricky. Initially, the wiper
should be adjusted so that it provides
a high resistance to the circuit. Otherwise, nothing happens when you
connect it up, and you can’t be sure
of a wiring problem or not.
An audible buzzing can be heard
when the Mosfet is switching, and
this can be used to confirm the unit
is working and as an aid in adjusting the cut off voltage. The voltage
at the panel is about 17.2V, as described in the article.
In testing the unit, I was somewhat disappointed, as I was expecting better performance than a
directly connected panel. However,
this seemed not to be the case. In
full sunlight, my panel was putting
out about 20V (maximum is 22V),
and the current into the battery was
100
Silicon Chip
about 1A. A direct connection to the
panel produced 1.3A into the battery, which was unexpected.
I am not sure why this is – possibly losses in the electronics. The
toroidal inductor gets quite warm.
Perhaps the “Simple solar charge
regulator for campers” (Circuit Notebook, August 2015; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/8806) or a relay
could work better. (B. D., Mount
Hunter, NSW)
• It is true that under some conditions, an MPPT charger can result in
slower charging than a direct connection due to inefficiency. But, in
theory at least, they work better under a wide range of conditions. That
the inductor gets so hot suggests it
is a significant source of inefficiency. You could try replacing it with
a part with a higher current rating
or maybe with a ferrite core.
It would be interesting to modify
an MPPT charger to have a bypass
relay, which could be energised during those times where a direct connection might be more efficient. But
it’s not obvious how to determine
when to energise it.
The designer, Colin O’Donnell
Australia’s electronics magazine
adds: you are right about the way
that VR1 needs to be adjusted. The
audible buzzing is strange; it is
probably coming from loose wiring
on the toroid. I think detecting and
adjusting the cutoff voltage using a
DMM is probably a more effective
approach. I did recommend a larger
toroid for better efficiency, noting
the smaller toroid got a little warm.
I do not know what capacity battery you are charging, but a large
automotive/marine battery would
accept a direct connection and
happily trickle charge at 1.3A all
day. However, in my case, I’m using 20Ah golf-cart batteries. In this
case, direct connection charging is a
trap – the solar panel would charge
the battery up to 20V+!
Charging a low impedance, discharged battery at 1.3A can occur
in full sunlight with this circuit. It
seems to be the practical (and theoretical) upper limit for a 20W panel.
The charging rate tapers off significantly as the battery voltage rises
to 14.1V, or whatever cutoff voltage
you have chosen. You will also notice that the panel input voltage rises
to 18V+ as a result of surplus power.
siliconchip.com.au
capacitors as long as they also meet
those requirements.
If in doubt, compare their ripple
ratings to those of the capacitors we
specified and make sure that the total ripple current of all capacitors is
at least as large as when using the capacitors we’ve nominated.
The chip in this project is programmed in assembly language, so
we have no C source code to supply.
The ASM source code file is part of the
ZIP download package for this project.
Questions about
Senator loudspeakers
I just tried to buy the Celestion drivers specified for your Senator 10-inch
two-way speakers (September-October
2015; siliconchip.com.au/Series/291),
but they are no longer produced. Are
you bringing out another speaker
project, or can you recommend some
other drivers that will be as good for
that project?
I have built two SC200 amplifier modules (January-March 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/308) and
would love to plug them into a fantastic pair of speakers.
Also, did you publish the additional
information for the supply or manufacture of the discontinued Jaycar LF1330 crossover inductors used in this
project, as stated on page 80 of the
October 2015 issue? I look forward to
your reply. (C. H., Gawler East, SA)
• While some outlets may have sold
out, the Celestion drivers are still
available. For example, a quick search
showed multiple sellers offering them
on eBay. We published a revised version of those speakers in the May and
June 2016 issues (siliconchip.com.au/
Series/300) which used the Altronics
C3026 bass driver, but it still used the
Celestion tweeter.
The update on the inductors was
also in the June 2016 issue (Budget
Senator Loudspeakers part two). We
used 325 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire on a custom former
made from acrylic pieces.
Those pieces are available for
purchase on our website at: http://
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/3470 You
might consider purchasing them at the
same time as the crossover PCB.
Editor’s note: we got a follow-up email a couple of days after sending our
response. The reader indicated that he
managed to purchase all the required
siliconchip.com.au
Celestion drivers and horns from Belfield Music, Bass Hill, NSW.
LED query for HiFi
Valve Stereo Preamp
I bought copies of your January &
February 2016 issues to build the Hifi
Valve Stereo Preamplifier (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/295) and tinker about
with it. I’ve modelled the circuitry
around indicator LED2, including the
220kW resistor and zener diodes ZD2
and ZD3 using TINA 7 Design Suite.
The only way I can get LED2 to illuminate is to change the dropper resistor from 220kW to 33kW.
When I change the value on the
modelling software, LED2 illuminates,
leaving me to assume that the 220kW
value may be a print error. Without
breadboarding this section (which I
intend to do), I can’t be entirely sure,
but it being a simple circuit I doubt the
software would be at fault. I checked
for errata on this article, but didn’t find
any. (J. H., Scotland, UK)
• LED2 on our prototype lit with the
component values specified. You can
see that we used a 220kW resistor by
reading the coloured bands on the photo in the article heading. This sets the
LED current to 1mA, which is plenty to
illuminate it, as long as it is a reasonably efficient type. In the worst case, a
high-brightness LED could be used to
ensure that it’s bright enough at 1mA.
A 33kW resistor in that position
would dissipate nearly 2W and would
probably cause the HT rail to sag. It
would need to be a 3W-rated resistor.
We do not suggest that you build
this project (or even a part of it) on a
breadboard, as breadboard is not rated
to handle the nearly 300V DC that is
present during operation!
Power supply for UltraLD Mk.3 with Majestics
I am currently building an UltraLD Mk.3 stereo amplifier (March-May
2012; siliconchip.com.au/Series/27)
and a set of Majestic speakers (June &
September 2014; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/275). I think it will be a good
combination.
I have a pair of toroidal transformers
suitable for the amplifier. I was considering using dual power supplies,
one for each channel, but that would
require quite a lot of extra work. Do
you think it would be worth the effort?
Australia’s electronics magazine
Harmon Kardon did it in the 70s. (A.
J., Martin, WA)
• Yes, that is a good combination; we
approve. You certainly can build a
stereo amplifier using Ultra-LD Mk.2,
Mk.3 or Mk.4 modules and two separate power supplies. However, unless
you plan on putting on a rock concert,
it is not worthwhile for driving the Majestic loudspeakers.
Those speakers are so sensitive that
they are virtually deafening at just a
few watts. You aren’t going to run into
power limitations with an Ultra-LD series amplifier using a single power supply at any sort of reasonable volume
level. Even with just 50W/channel,
which an amplifier can easily sustain
with a shared supply, you are likely
to damage your hearing (and probably
your neighbours’)!
CLASSiC-D amp needs
dead time adjustment
Congratulations on producing such a
great magazine, which I’ve been following since Electronics Australia was still
on newsstands. I just built a CLASSiCD Class-D amplifier module (November
& December 2012; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/17) and ran into some problems;
I hope you can help me with them.
Q2 failed in operation resulting in
a permanently shorted drain-source
junction. The failure was preceded by
a loud clunk in the speaker, which was
fortunately saved when the protection
relay dropped out. I discovered a solder blob between the 10W and 7.5kW
resistors connected to Q3, effectively
shorting the base-emitter junction. The
IRS2092’s protection circuitry didn’t
save Q2 from destruction.
With the solder blob removed and
Q2 replaced, Q1 blew up, now shorted
between its drain and source. I can’t
really figure out why, but after replacing Q1, the unit has been robust, and I
haven’t managed to blow up any further Mosfets, despite a lot of testing
and troubleshooting.
While trying to figure out why this
all happened, I noticed that the heat
sink on the board experiencing these
failures becomes significantly hotter
than the other. I replaced all components involved with the 15V ‘floating’
supply “just in case”, but the problem
remains.
Scope traces on Lo and Ho suggest
the dead time is greater between Looff and Ho-on, compared with Ho-off
April 2020 101
and Lo-on. It also appears that it takes
longer for Q1 to switch off than Q2.
The floating supply for Q1’s gate
drive perhaps confuses the issue. Because it floats above Vs (ie, the output rail), it shows up on Ho as a large
swing commencing above B+ and going down to B- (a peak-to-peak swing
of around 124V, compared with the
15V swing of Lo).
There’s a noticeable ‘knee’ in Ho’s
falling slope, which adds to the time
for Ho to reach its lowest value of
around -50V. This knee is well above
0V, suggesting that at this point, Q1 is
still on. A diode across Q1’s 22W gate
resistor removes the knee and Q1’s
switch-off time decreases, helping to
ensure that Q1 is well and truly off
before Q2 is on (as shown in the two
supplied scope grabs).
Despite the above changes, the heatsink was still getting very hot. After
hours of checking, rechecking, removing many components and testing, I’m
at a complete loss to understand why.
I changed the dead time resistors to
increase the dead time to option 3,
resulting in the heatsink running significantly cooler. The amp has been
working fine for quite some time now.
Could the fact that the replacement
Mosfets are from different manufacturers have something to do with
this? In case that matters, I’ve now ordered replacement Mosfets (Infineon)
from Digi-Key and will replace both
of them. Hopefully, for the benefit of
less distortion, I’ll be able to go back
to dead time option two with two new
Mosfets installed.
On another topic, I want to add volume control to my CLASSiC-D amp,
but the input impedance of 4.7kW is
a bit low to directly wire in a potentiometer without overloading it. So
I’m thinking that buffering may be required. Can you suggest the best way
to do this?
Your magazine has provided for
a very rewarding hobby over many
years. It’s a credit to everyone there
to be able to keep coming up with so
many great, high-quality projects and
interesting articles month after month.
Well done! (S. D., Wantirna South, Vic)
• A solder blob short from Q3’s base
to emitter could certainly have caused
the initial destruction of Q2. With Q2
shorted, Q1 would have also been
shorted to the supply rail and so would
have been damaged before Q2 was replaced. The protection of the Mosfets
against over-current is really only effective if IC1 is supplied its correct
power voltages.
It is interesting that you needed to
increase dead time to have the heatsink run cool. A compromise has to
be made between having the shortest
dead time and having a satisfactory
heatsink temperature. Differences in
the output Mosfets switching characteristics due to manufacturing tolerances could account for the temperature differences between the two separate amplifiers. It only takes one Mosfet
with differing characteristics to make
both Mosfets run hotter.
We do think that the amplifier
would run cooler using Mosfets from
the same reputable manufacturer. This
increases the chances that the deadtime required for each Mosfet will be
similar.
Depending on what is driving the
amplifier, you could place a 4.7kW
dual logarithmic volume control pot
Trace on Ho and Lo – no diode on Q1’s gate resistor.
102
Silicon Chip
at the front without buffering. If you
want to use a preamplifier, we suggest
that you use the Ultra Low-noise Remote Controlled Stereo Preamp from
March & April 2019 (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/333).
This can be mated with our Input Selector from September 2019
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11917) to
provide input switching.
PIC programmer
verification failures
I have built the dsPIC and PIC programmer from May 2008 (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/1824). When I program
PICs with it, it comes back with heaps
of verification errors. However, when
I take the PIC and put it in a circuit, it
usually works.
If I add an extra delay of 1000µs
before reading data in WinPIC, sometimes it can get through without errors.
However, it then takes a very long time
to program the chip. Can you tell me
what is happening and any suggestions
to fix this problem? (D. D., Lorne, Vic)
• The ZIF socket contacts could be
dirty and making poor contact. Try
cleaning them with contact cleaner.
Does taking a chip out of the socket
and putting it back in help sometimes?
The other potential cause of your
problem would be the way that the
PGD line is set up for a bidirectional
data flow. The output of IC2f only pulls
PGD low via 1N4004 diode D3; it relies on a 2.2kW resistor to pull it up,
so any significant capacitance on that
pin would result in very slow low-tohigh transitions and the sort of problems that you are experiencing.
As 1N4004 diodes are not intended
Trace on Ho and Lo – diode across Q1’s gate resistor.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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to be used as ‘signal’ diodes, we suggest that you change D3 to a 1N4148 or
1N5819 (both of which should switch
much faster). That design really should
have incorporated a buffer from the
anode of D3 to pin 8 of CON2, so that
RS-232 cable capacitance doesn’t slow
down these transitions.
Clipping indicator
wanted
I was wondering if Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
has ever produced a clipping indicator project that could be added to
most power audio amplifiers. (M. J.,
via email)
• We published a Clipping Indicator circuit in the Circuit Notebook
section of our November 2003 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/4810).
However, that circuit only monitored
for clipping during positive excursions.
More recently, our Ultra-LD Mk.4
amplifier design from August 2015
Australia’s electronics magazine
incorporated a bidirectional clipping
detector. That part of the circuit was
presented separately (in Fig.2 on page
36) and could be added to any power
amplifier.
That circuit is a little more complex
but has the advantage that a single LED
indicates clipping at either extreme.
It’s designed to suit an amplifier with
a Darlington output stage, but can easily be changed to suit other designs
by choosing different voltage zener
diodes for ZD1 and ZD2.
SC
April 2020 103
Coming up in Silicon Chip
Anodising aluminium
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................73-76
Professionally-made aluminium pieces are often anodised for protection against
damage and corrosion, or to change their colour. Sometimes you don’t have that
option, though, especially when you are making aluminium panels at home. But
the anodising process is not that complicated and you can do it at home with just
a few basic tools and chemicals. We’ll explain how.
Stealth Technology
Stealth technology doesn’t just apply to aircraft; ships, vehicles and even people
can be rendered harder to detect using the various technologies described in this
article. Dr David Maddison describes the latest developments in radar stealth as
well as techniques for reducing infrared emissions, generated noise, and even
attempts to make vehicles and people invisible to the naked eye!
The H-field Transanalyser
Dr Hugo Holden developed this all-in-one instrument for aligning, testing and
troubleshooting AM transistor radios. It can also be used with valve sets; the
modulated test signal can be coupled into a ferrite rod antenna without making any
direct electrical connections to the circuit, thus avoiding detuning it or otherwise
affecting its operation.
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
The May 2020 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, April 30th.
Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between April 28th
and May 8th.
Notes & Errata
AM/FM/CW Scanning HF/VHF RF Signal Generator, June & July 2019: the de
signer discovered that some rotary encoders look identical but work differently, re
sulting in erratic operation. The V14 firmware addresses this; by default, it works
with pulse-type encoders. You can identify these by testing continuity across the
two internal switches; if they are both always open when the encoder is at rest, it
is a pulse-type. With the level type, one or both switches may be closed at rest,
depending on the encoder’s rotation.
If you have a level-type encoder and the V14 software, solder a 100kW resistor from
pin 28 of the Atmel chip to ground, on the underside of the PCB. That will change
the software mode to work with level-type encoders.
Ampec Technologies................. 97
Control Devices......................... 11
Dave Thompson...................... 103
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona Instruments................. IBC
Jaycar............................ IFC,49-56
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 103
LD Electronics......................... 103
LEACH PCB Assembly............... 5
LEDsales................................. 103
METCASE Enclosures................ 4
Microchip Technology........ OBC, 7
Mouser Electronics...................... 9
Ocean Controls......................... 63
RayMing PCB & Assembly.......... 8
SC Micromite BackPack............ 37
Silicon Chip PDFs.................... 48
Silicon Chip Shop.................... 99
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 61
Triple Point Calibrations............. 10
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 103
Wagner Electronics..................... 6
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the
Competition & Consumer Act 2010 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
104
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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