This is only a preview of the September 2020 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 36 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner":
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SEPTEMBER 2020
ISSN 1030-2662
09
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1800 022 888
Contents
Vol.33, No.9
September 2020
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
12 5G Mobile Networks
5G is the newest iteration in a long line of cellular network standards. Apart
from the often-touted (large) speed and bandwidth increase, we look at what
else is new and how it actually works – by Dr David Maddison
32 The History of the Australian General Purpose Outlet
The ubiquitous three-pin power plug and socket as used in Australia, New
Zealand and the South Pacific is a simple but effective design. In this article we
look at how the design came about and where it came from – by John Hunter
72 Advanced Vehicle Diagnostics with OBD2
The OBD2 standard lets you easily troubleshoot the increasingly complex
vehicles that are on the road today. This article details the various OBD2 dongles
that are available and how to use them – by Nenad Stojadonovic
It seems like nearly everyone’s been
talking about 5G recently. So we
thought we’d join in, by describing
how it works and where it differs
from its predecessors – Page 12
Constructional Projects
24 High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner
This easy-to-build Ultrasonic Cleaner is ideal for cleaning large items like
mechanical parts and fabrics. All you need is a suitable ‘bath’ made from
stainless steel, aluminium or plastic and away you go – by John Clarke
42 A Shirt-pocket Sized Audio DDS Oscillator
This compact little audio oscillator provides you with an accurate sinewave
wherever you need it. It displays the output frequency on a 64x32 pixel OLED
screen and is housed in a 3D-printed case – by Andrew Woodfield
68 The Night Keeper Lighthouse
Finally, it’s actually here! Our High
Power Ultrasonic Cleaner is ready
just in time for spring – Page 24
This portable oscillator generates
a sinewave from 1Hz all the way up
to 9999Hz with 0.002% accuracy –
Page 42
A perfect project for beginners. This small PCB uses fewer than 10 components
and serves as a good introduction to basic electronics. It can also double as a
night light for young kids once they’ve built it – by Andrew Woodfield
86 USB SuperCodec – part two
This month we cover all the details on the circuit design of the SuperCodec.
Since the SuperCodec can also be used as a signal analysis system, in addition
to its recording and playback functions, there is a lot to explain in terms of how
each section of the project works – by Phil Prosser
Your Favourite Columns
49 Circuit Notebook
As a nice, simple project,
this lighthouse serves as
a great introduction to
electronics, in part due to
how few components it
uses – Page 68
(1) Low-power flashing LED thermometer
(2) Adjustable power supply using a fixed voltage switchmode regulator
(3) Giant 1024-pixel RGB LED clock
61 Serviceman’s Log
Troubleshooting temperamental tea – by Dave Thompson
96 Vintage Radio
US Marine Corps TBY-8 squad radio – by Ian Batty
Everything Else
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
siliconchip.com.au
85 Product Showcase
104 Silicon Chip Online Shop
106 Ask SILICON CHIP
111 Market Centre
Australia’s
magazine
112
Noteselectronics
and Errata
112 Advertising Index
Cover Image: www.jbsa.mil/News/Photos/igphoto/2002310276/
OBD2 dongles are great tools to
help you maintain (or even modify)
your vehicle. Here’s how to choose
one and how to use it – Page 72
September 2020 1
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Editorial Viewpoint
5G and the stupid Broadband Tax
When I first heard about the upcoming 5G mobile technology and its touted high data speeds,
my first thought was: isn’t 4G fast enough? 4G is
capable of data delivery at close to 1Gbps, and that
seems more than fast enough for most users’ mobile
data needs. You could fill up the flash memory of a
256GB phone in less than half an hour at that speed.
But the more I thought about it, the more I realised
that it isn’t the maximum throughput that matters,
it’s the aggregate bandwidth in a given area. It might be possible to get
1Gbps download if you’re the only person in your suburb who’s awake,
but when thousands of other people are all trying to stream videos at the
same time, each only gets a small slice of the pie.
This became especially apparent to me when my NBN connection was
down (as detailed in my June rant…). Many people were working from
home due to COVID-19, so 4G data speeds in my area were miserable
during the day. I was lucky to get more than 1Mbps most of the time.
So having more spectrum space and more mobile ‘towers’ servicing
smaller cells starts making a lot more sense. There are more and bigger
‘pies’, so even if the maximum size of a slice is similar, users can still get
larger servings when demand is high.
It still seems like it will be a vast job to roll out 5G across all urban areas in Australia, given how many millions of microcells that would require, but at least the rationale for doing so makes a certain amount of
sense. The existing NBN infrastructure presumably will help with that.
That brings me to the stupidity that is the recently-passed Broadband
Tax (its implementation now delayed until January 2021). As David
Maddison points out in his article starting on page 12, that doesn’t apply to 5G connections, only fixed line internet. But you have to wonder
if that might change if lots of people ditch their NBN connections and
hop onto 5G instead.
Can you think of any other area in which a monopoly is funded by taxes placed on its competitors? I can’t. That the government has to funnel
money to the NBN from private businesses to keep it going shows how
poorly it was conceived and executed.
Despite all this, I can’t imagine mobile broadband taking over from fixedline services. It would be a colossal waste of spectrum. Even if mobile
data can burst to higher speeds than the NBN, the aggregate bandwidth
available is much more limited. Perhaps the ideal would be a fixed-line
connection for streaming video and so on, plus wireless technology used
in parallel to speed up large downloads.
Altronics catalog delay
Astute readers may be aware that Altronics publishes a new catalog
every 18 months and, as the last one was bundled with our March 2019
issue, you might have expected to get a copy of the new catalog with your
copy of the September 2020 issue.
However, COVID-19 has caused delays in sourcing products and, as
a result, Altronics has decided to delay their new catalog. So if you live
in Australia, you can expect to receive a copy of the next Altronics catalog with your copy of the March 2021 issue of Silicon Chip magazine.
In the meantime, please see their website at www.altronics.com.au to
see what they have on offer.
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Nostalgic for old issues on USB
under $4500 with monitor and key- ror and seeking to buy a replacement
My USB drive with Silicon Chip board! That’s around $10,000 in to- part. They said they do not supply
day’s dollars. Also, we just purchased parts for these machines, and that the
PDFs arrived today – very professional
a 16TB hard disk for under $800. best thing to do was to find an engineer
and good quality; well done!
I jumped into the first issue and did That’s an increase in megabytes-per- to manufacture a new part.
Not only was I annoyed that this vithat bring back some memories... and dollar of more than 800,000 times,
RAYMING
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but I was doubly annoyed when I
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Aussie dollar in those times compared man column (July 2020; siliconchip. it is strong enough to cope.
com.au/Article/14502). I have worked
Simon Miller,
to the earned salary of the day.
via email.
I remember buying my first hard in electronic support at a university for
disk, a full-height 5.25in 20MB unit nearly 40 years in both construction/
that I could squeeze to 30MB by us- design and repair and never cease to Hydrogen storage breakthrough
I think you should consider an artiing an RLL controller for $800. Soon be amazed at the stupidity and unafter that, I bought a 387 co-processor helpfulness of many of the equipment cle on hydrogen storage developments
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Lee Bourgeois,
A big thank you, and all the best to limit, rolling a piece of 6mm rod – I
later realised that it is rated to 5mm.
Mittagong, NSW.
the Silicon Chip team.
The central piece holding the rollers
William Sherwood,
is made of plastic, which I had not no- Early digital cartography in Australia
Stirling, WA.
In reference to your March 2020
Response: to highlight your point, ticed or imagined. It was black, like all
there’s a review of a 16MHz 286-based the other metal parts. To my surprise, article on Digital Cartography
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/12577),
computer starting on page 16 of the this plastic cracked.
I rang the supplier, admitting my er- I saw an interesting vehicle at the
May 1989 issue. As tested, it was just
RAYMING TECHNOLOGY
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I thought that this might be of interest to your other readers. Keep up the
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Sydney, NSW.
I would like to express my admiration for Ken Kranz’s fine article on
his restoration of a Velco 1937 radio
(August 2020; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14544).
There are probably many old sets
like his, sitting on the “too hard” shelf,
that will not be seen as worth even listing when a collection is disposed of.
I was especially interested to see
his rebuilding of the IF transformer. I
recently had an Astor Mickey Grand
with a butchered first IFT – someone
had simply “splatted” solder on to the
primary winding (probably) in an attempt to repair an open circuit. The
Mickey’s IF transformer coil sets and
trimmers, while tuning to 455kHz,
looked identical in construction to
the Velco’s.
My solution was to remove the damaged winding until I found a good connection point. I then needed to parallel the existing trimmer with around
68pF to make up for the loss of winding inductance.
While the set worked OK, I recognise that the modified transformer
probably has a different response from
that which the manufacturer intended.
I will certainly apply Ken’s fix if I ever
see a similar problem.
Ian Batty,
Rosebud, Vic.
been built, and they wanted a data line
to the east coast of the USA from Alice Springs. The route was from Alice
Springs to Adelaide, then Sydney, then
via Compac Cable to San Francisco and
across the USA.
A single voice circuit was required
on our 12-channel open wire system
to Adelaide. As Adelaide was a major centre, its frequency stabilisation
was done by a 4kHz master oscillator
and its harmonics. At Alice Springs,
we were using a remote end terminal
with three crystal-controlled oscillators close to 500kHz to set the channel
frequencies to send on the open wire
system to Adelaide.
When we were only using this for
speech, we had no problems, but with
the data line, we started to have problems with slight frequency drift. So we
had Darwin send down their frequency
meter. It arrived in a container about
1.5 x 1.5 x 0.5 metres and weighed
what seemed like a ton. The air freight
must have cost a bomb! It was a valve
unit with Nixie tubes as a readout.
Having adjusted the oscillators, we
then had to send the unit back to Darwin. This had to be done several times
as the frequency kept drifting.
After a visit from a transmission inspector who was not very happy with
the arrangements, next time when we
asked for a frequency meter, we got a
box about 400mm per side and weighing almost nothing. Inside was a new
Racal frequency meter using all semiconductors; it was very different from
the other unit and only about the size
of a lunchbox.
We eventually found out what was
causing the drift. To make the adjustments, we had to take the rack covers
off, then replace them afterwards and
the temperature slowly increased until
we took the covers off again. We ended up drilling holes in the rack cover so that we could make the adjustment with the covers on. That ended
our problem.
Brian Dunn,
Old Noarlunga, SA.
Frequency adjustments in the old days
Comment on NBN hookup horrors
An interesting radio restoration
Reading the panel on direct-reading
frequency meters on page 74 of the July
2020 issue (in the Tektronix Type 130
LC Meter article – siliconchip.com.au/
Series/346) jogged my memory. I was
the officer in charge of the telephone
exchange at Alice Springs in the late
1960s. The Pine Gap station had just
6
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
That was a horrifying piece you
wrote for the June 2020 Editorial
Viewpoint (siliconchip.com.au/Article/14454). I hope that NBNco and
your ISP saw it and are contemplating their navels.
I waited until February this year
to get NBN in Willoughby. My ISP
siliconchip.com.au
is iiNet (now part of TPG), and they
were excellent.
My biggest concern was how to connect the phones; we have four phones
on three levels. I eventually solved
that problem by getting a Panasonic
cordless with the base station plugged
into the modem. It works very well. I
have not had a single NBN dropout.
The connection is FTTC and it works
perfectly.
So I have concluded that you used
a dodgy ISP or the techs who served
you were no good or somehow the fibre cable in your street is faulty.
You may be interested in the following article in the Sydney Morning
Herald titled “How to get the best deal
on your NBN plan”: siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab36
Response: I have no proof that any of
my problems were the fault of my ISP. I
am on FTTC (fibre to the curb) too, and
it has been working well since they finally got all those problems sorted out.
The initial connection problems
were almost certainly the fault of the
contractors who ran the fibre in our
area. As for the unexpected disconnection, my ISP reps told me they did
not request my line be disconnected,
and they were mystified as to why it
was done.
Our property was divided into two
about three years ago, and some companies get our address mixed up with
our neighbours (even though they are
clearly separate). I wonder if that had
something to do with it. Still, that’s
something that the NBN should be set
up to deal with.
Switchmode converter limitations
I want a device that can generate
a 12V output from a set of paralleled
Li-ion cells at about 4A. I have experimented with switchmode supplies
for almost 40 years, and I still have a
lot of trouble with the magnetics, so
I thought I would take the easy way
out. I bought a “DC Voltage Boost
Module with Display” from Jaycar,
Cat XC4609.
When I saw that the main inductor
was rated at 4.7µH, I was sure that
this module could not deliver what I
wanted. With a 3V input, it was only
able to supply 400mA at 12V; a little
more with a 4V input.
I then tried 12V in and 24V out. The
power was limited by my power supply, and with 3A in, it delivered almost 1.5A out with greater than 90%
8
Silicon Chip
efficiency. So, the device can provide
a reasonable amount of power efficiently. It is just a pity that they do
not supply a graph of Vin versus power
output. Still, it will be useful to me as
I sometimes need to run 24V motors
from a 12V battery pack.
I have experimented with the old
MC34063A, but efficiencies of 60 to
70% do not impress me. I will keep
looking for a solution.
On a semi-related topic, I found
some very useful Mosfets which can
handle decent currents (1.5-4A) at 2040V that can be driven from a 3.3V device. The DMG2302UK(20V, 2.4A) is
fully on with a gate-source voltage of
just 1.2V, while the DMP3099L (30V,
4.5A) is entirely on at 3.0V. They both
come in small SOT-23 SMD packages
and cost just 22¢ each in quantities
of 100 plus.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
Comment: it is tough to design a
switchmode circuit that will work well
over a wide range of input and output
voltages. It’s also challenging to boost
low voltages at significant currents,
as you want, although it can be done.
Those universal modules typically give
specifications under the best conditions, so at very low or high voltages
or very high currents, their capabilities can be limited.
Low-value inductors aren’t necessarily the problem; they can work
well with very high switching frequencies, and this has the advantage that
the inductors are small and can also
have a very low DC resistance for
lower losses.
We think that you’re better off putting the Li-ion cells in series rather
than trying to step up the voltage.
Charging does become a bit more difficult then, as you need to balance
the cells. Still, balance chargers are
available at quite a modest cost, and
we should be publishing a very capable standalone battery/cell balancer
in the next few months.
The MC34063 is very crude. We
would not recommend it for new designs. It’s difficult to get it to operate
in anything other than ‘bang-bang’
mode, which generally results in bad
subharmonics.
Yes, Mosfets with low gate drive voltages are very useful. Unfortunately, it’s
tough to find good ones in throughhole packages these days. Virtually
all of the newer Mosfets are SMD-only.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Diode sizes vary
I am building the High-Performance
Linear Power supply from the OctoberDecember 2019 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/339). The pad spacing
and the hole diameters are wrong for
the SB380 and 1N5404 3A diodes. To
get these diodes to fit, you would need
to drill out the holes, and also bend the
leads on the diodes right next to the
case, not a recognised good practice.
Richard Blacksell,
Bungendore, NSW.
Response: you are right that the diode
holes are too small, although we managed to fit them on our prototype (our
samples must be on the small side!).
We have produced a revised PCB
with larger holes, and we will eventually replace our stock with the new ones.
You can drill out the holes if necessary,
just be sure to solder the diode leads
top and bottom. It is also possible to
surface-mount these diodes as they do
not dissipate much except under fault
conditions (which are hopefully brief).
As for the hole spacing, that is odd
since the part data sheets indicate a
nominal body length of 7.6mm and the
pads are 12.7mm apart. That should
provide enough space to bend the
leads without stressing them too much.
Perhaps your diodes are at the upper
limit of manufacturing tolerances in
terms of size. To be safe, we’ve moved
the pads further apart in the revised
PCB design.
Alternative fans for Bench Supply
I am building your 45V 8A Linear
Bench Power Supply as described in
the October-December 2019 issues
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/339). I
have been unable to purchase the fans
specified; they have been on backorder
since November 2019 and Digi-Key
do not know when they will come in.
On looking at other possibilities,
I came across an Altronics fan, Cat
F0950. This is 80x80mm and rated at
53 CFM (1.7m3/hr), but it needs a 12V
DC supply. So I added an extra winding to the toroidal power transformer
to get a suitable supply.
I found that by winding 22 turns
around the core and using a bridge
rectifier with a 1000µF 25V filter capacitor, I got close to 12V DC with the
fans connected.
There are some advantages to this
approach: the fans are in stock locally, they are IP68-rated, and if one fan
fails, the other will continue working
siliconchip.com.au
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as they are connected in parallel rather than in series, as
in the original design.
I fitted a Pressphan insulating washer over the transformer (left over from making the shield, with a 50mm
hole in it), to protect the outer winding layers of the transformer when it is clamped down.
To add the windings, measure 5m of insulated cable or
winding wire of at least 0.5mm diameter and wind it onto
a bobbin made from sturdy cardboard.
Tie one end to one of the secondary leads, then pass
the bobbin through the centre of the toroidal transformer, keeping the wire tight. After 22 turns, tape the ends
to the core and coat the wire with varnish to keep it in
place. Make sure you don’t have any overlapping turns.
John Chappell,
Port Macquarie, NSW.
Editor’s note: the specified fans (Cat P122256-ND) are
back in stock at Digi-Key.
Constructive comments
on DAB+/FM/AM radio
Thanks for publishing the DAB+ tuner project back in
2019 (January-March 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/330).
During the COVID-19 lockdown, I was motivated to build
the project as a hifi receiver to complement the Ultra-LD
Mk.1, 2 & 3 amplifier and Studio Series Preamp that I’ve
been thoroughly enjoying for fifteen or so years.
I thought I’d let you know of some problems I ran into
with the radio and my solutions, as I expect other readers
may have encountered the same problems.
Firstly, I’m from Canberra. One of the frequencies used
for DAB+ in Canberra is 201.072MHz (block 8D), but the
software default for the lowest Australian frequency in
this project is set to 202.928 MHz. It was an easy fix to
change this to 201.072 MHz by editing the crunched basic program at line 1970. The ACMA web site also lists a
frequency of 199.36MHz at Mandurah, if you have readers near there.
Secondly, my DAB+ radio failed to initialise correctly
with the circuit constructed as-published. Although I had
built it with the WM8804 S/PDIF transceiver, the software
would fail to detect it and shortly afterwards, would generate errors with a “Waiting for CTS timeout” during the
“Loading bootloader for Si4689” phase, with additional
errors subsequently.
10
Silicon Chip
While trying to diagnose the issue, I eventually discovered that the radio booted as expected if I gently touched
the three 47W resistors adjacent to CON3 during poweron and boot. After the radio was up and running, I could
remove my fingers and the radio continued to work asexpected thereafter.
Over the course of an evening and morning debugging, I found (at different times) I could get the radio to
boot when touching only one of the three resistors, and
finally, touching just a multimeter probe carefully onto
one of the three resistors. With the finger-touch and multimeter probe hint, I added three 3.3kW pull-up resistors
between the 3.3V pin on CON8 and the DAB+ radio side
of the three 47W resistors.
The radio now boots perfectly every time and always
recognises the WM8804 chip. I assumed the cause must
have been a ringing issue on the SPI/Si4689 chip select
lines but none-the-less, this fix was simple, and it worked.
Thirdly, I and several online commenters have noticed
unnerving loud cracks that occur every power-on boot, at
every change of band, and when operating the DIG OUT
feature. I found the critical hint when I traced the first
crack sound to the “SETPIN 21, DOUT” statement.
I realised the effect of pin 21 and this statement is to
control the shutdown pin of the LM2663 regulator (REG4),
and then recognised that shutting the regulator down cannot avoid causing a step change in any of the analog outputs (Line Out, Headphones or Speakers).
I am uncertain of the original motivation for implementing this regulator shutdown and could not think of a good
reason to keep the feature. Cutting the track connecting
CON8 pin 35 and REG4 pin 1, and then grounding REG4
pin 1, resolved the loud cracks.
I hope my experiences can help somebody else get their
radio working.
I should also comment that despite 35 years as an electronics engineer, some of this time spent working in factories doing SMD work, hand-soldering 0603 devices remains challenging for a DIY project.
I appreciate that the components surrounding the Si4689
must be closely spaced for RF reasons. Still, perhaps one
of the larger component series would improve the constructibility and maintainability of future projects involving SMD components.
Stefan Keller-Tuberg,
Fadden, ACT.
Nicholas responds: thanks for your thoroughly-researched
letter. We were not aware that blocks 8C and 8D were in
use in Australia. Perhaps this is a recent development;
last time we checked, the information we had was that all
Australian DAB+ stations were on blocks 9A-9C.
I also didn’t realise that REG4 was being shut down
when changing band; that doesn’t make much sense. I
designed much of the PCB but did not write the software.
Perhaps there was a misunderstanding between Duraid
and myself regarding the purpose of that signal.
The original intention was to allow that regulator to be
shut down when the radio was switched into standby mode.
I realised that this would cause a transient but figured that
it could be managed. I think the handling of REG4 shutdown could probably be fixed with some software changes.
The fact that you needed to add pull-up resistors is
interesting as we did not experience that problem with
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
our prototype. Perhaps its operation is marginal. They
shouldn’t do any harm.
We almost always use SMD parts in 2012/0805 size or
larger, but in this case, we couldn’t. I am somewhat used
to working with 1608/0603 parts, so perhaps I am biased;
if you think those are hard, try hand-soldering 1005/0402
parts. They are smaller than a grain of rice, and I have
trouble seeing them clearly without magnification!
Thanks for help with the Reflow Oven Controller
I’d like to thank Phil Prosser for helping me to solve a
problem with the DIY Reflow Oven Controller that I built
(April & May 2020; siliconchip.com.au/Series/343). It
all went together OK, but upon powering it up, the LCD
showed a Silicon Chip splash screen, then a page displaying the version number; then it went blank.
Very occasionally, it continued to the screen showing a
target temperature. I could adjust that temperature using
the rotary encoder. Press the EXIT button would momentarily show the screen to set the PID and other parameters,
then the screen would go blank. As far as I could see, the
processor was still running because the LED continued
to flash, but the screen was blank until I cycled power.
I checked everything but couldn’t find any faults. Phil
kindly sent me a known-good LCD screen to try, and that
fixed it. So I guess the screen I got was slightly out of spec,
or possibly intermittently faulty.
Having fixed that, I found that the thermocouple amp
did not have the correct reference voltage even though it
was the same colour as the article recommended (purple),
but shorting pin 2 to GND solved that.
With the TEMPCO set at the recommended level, it is
spot on at 19°C but reads 6°C at 0° and 90°C at 98°C. I
think lowering the TEMPCO a little would correct this,
but I don’t think it is significant for the proposed task.
I tried reflow soldering a board with a few passive components and an IC. The job was perfect; it worked like a
dream. There were a small number of solder balls present,
but they were only visible under fairly heavy magnification.
Chris Minahan,
Hallidays Point, NSW.
Toyota Hybrid accessory battery charging
I found the article regarding the Toyota hybrid system
(December 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Article/12172) very
interesting and informative, especially since I have just
bought a new Camry hybrid.
In light of some negative comments made about the
charging system in some modern cars in your magazine,
I decided to measure the output of the 12V power socket
in the dashboard. By pure coincidence, this was on the
day before my December subscription copy arrived.
Imagine my surprise when, after I turned on the hybrid
system, the voltage showed 14.4V, even though the petrol
engine had not even started! I drove the car, and the petrol engine started after about 30 seconds. After a couple
of minutes, the battery voltage dropped to 12.5V.
I later pondered the situation, and concluded that
the 12V battery is charged from the high-voltage battery
(244.8V NiMH, which Toyota refer to as the “traction battery”). I think the whole system is quite brilliant.
Roger Chapman,
Shelly Beach, NSW.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 11
The latest 5G mobile data and voice communications technology
promises to provide much higher data speeds and greater bandwidth
than the existing 3G or 4G. But what exactly is new, what benefits can
you expect from it and how does it work? Dr David Maddison explains:
5G
Mobile Communications
5G
band connections at home (in Australia, this would com(fifth generation) mobile technology has been
pete with the NBN; see comments in this month’s editorial
available in some parts of Australia since late
about Australia’s “broadband tax” and the panel below).
2019. 5G is a package of technologies, not just
Different carriers might focus on various aspects of the
one, including smart antenna design, many more base stations than the typical mobile towers we are used to, a much technology. For example, one might concentrate on offerbroader frequency range (eventually) plus much higher fre- ing fixed internet at home via 5G, another might focus on
mobile phone service, and others might focus on the Interquencies (millimetre waves, around 26GHz and up).
The vision of 5G is that it will allow much greater connec- net of Things or the Internet of Everything. Or they might
tivity between all manner of things (see Fig.1). Apart from become involved in all aspects of 5G.
its obvious application in telephony, 5G will:
• allow dramatically improved video streaming, for watch- The 5G radio access network (RAN)
The RAN is that part of a telecommunications system that
ing videos and videoconferencing;
• enable communications with vehicles such as driverless connects devices to other parts of the network via radio. For
cars and other machinery, and pilotless aircraft such as 5G, it consists of traditional base-station towers, small cells
delivery drones in the city, connections to utility meters, to provide additional coverage, wireless systems in builda surgeon connected to a robotic surgical device hundreds ings and homes, and potentially large numbers of mmWave
of kilometres away and innumerable other uses, many of (millimetre wave or EHF, 30-300GHz) antennas in suburban
areas, on street lights or power poles.
which have not yet even been conceived;
Like its predecessors, 5G is a cellular system whereby
• wirelessly connect “Internet of Things” (IoT) devices, specifically via wireless “machine-to-machine communica- each 5G device operates in a small geographic area called
tion” or M2M. This will evolve into “massive Machine a “cell” at any given time. Cells are typically a few kilomeType Communication” (mMTC), where information will tres across in a suburban area and contain one or more fixed
be generated, exchanged and acted upon by machines transceiver stations, on dedicated towers or a structure on
with little or no intervention from humans. mMTC ap- top of a tall building or hill.
Adjacent cells use different frequencies or other nonplications are being developed for healthcare, transport,
interfering modulation schemes. These multiple cells and
utilities, energy, agriculture and industrial monitoring;
transceivers allow for many
• achieve all of the above
more mobile devices, as the
due to high-speed, low- Crazy conspiracy theories
frequencies can be reused in
latency (delay) data comThere are innumerable conspiracy theories and claims of physiother non-adjacent cells.
munications, while sup- cal and mental harm from 5G being promoted online and elsewhere.
This scheme also reduces
porting a much larger We consider these to be too ridiculous even to bother refuting them.
the required transmit and renumber of connections The amount of power radiated from a 5G (or 4G) phone is in most
ceiver power, allowing much
than existing systems;
cases so low that it is of no concern.
smaller devices with less bat• and allow wireless broad12
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: a vision of the near
future, with 5G connecting
everything we use together.
Source: ITU (International
Telecommunications Union).
tery drain. The cell scheme can also be extended virtually
without limits, to cover an entire city or country as required.
A key feature and requirement for cellular systems is the
ability to reuse the limited number of available frequencies. This is because there might be millions of devices in
a city and there simply is not sufficient radio spectrum to
have a different frequency assigned to every single device,
particularly with modern high-bandwidth service requirements such as streaming video.
Frequencies can be reused by other cells as long as they
are sufficiently far away to avoid interference. The reuse
distance is the minimum spacing between towers before a
frequency can be used again, avoiding so-called co-channel
interference. Modulation schemes also exist which allow
multiple users to share a single frequency.
Since there is a limit to the number of available frequencies, as the number of users has grown, the cell size has
shrunk. The smaller the cell size, the greater number of total users that are possible and the greater the number of antennas. This leads to a concept of variable cell sizes, which
have been given names like macrocells, microcells, picocells
and femtocells (Figs.2-6).
A full-size (macro) cell usually has a tower at the centre,
or antennas mounted on a building. They are generally
Indoor:
10-100mW
Outdoor:
0.2-1W
Coverage radius: 10s of metres
Indoor:
10-100mW
Outdoor:
1-5W
Coverage radius: 10s of metres
Outdoor:
5-10W
Coverage radius: 100s of metres
Outdoor:
>10W
Coverage radius: kilometre(s)
Fig.2: a description of various mobile cell sizes. Small cells
allow an increase in the number of users in a particular
geographic area. Smaller cells also allow for more
frequency reuse than macrocells. “Backhaul” is how the
cells connect to the core network, either by an existing
wired or optical fibre connection or wireless connections.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: a 4G microcell mounted on a tram power pole
outside Melbourne’s Flinders St Station. These boost
capacity in busy locations or improve reception in certain
areas. Many more similar small cells will be needed for
5G. Source: Telstra.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 13
Before 1G, a
Telecom Australia
(later Telstra) “007”
mobile phone. This is
only half the story: there
was also a large box mounted
in the boot!
Fig.4: a cellular pattern from US Patent 4,144,411, granted
1979. Each number represents a frequency. Notice how
certain frequencies are used multiple times. Each tower
radiates one of its three 120° beams into an adjacent cell,
so each cell is served by three beams, one each from three
towers. The shape of real cells depends on geography and
the availability of antenna sites.
directional, often having a radiation pattern covering 120
degrees from each array. So a typical tower has the antennas
mounted in a triangular array. This enables more users to
be simultaneously connected compared to having just one
omnidirectional antenna.
It is also possible to electronically ‘steer’ beams to a particular user, which we will discuss later.
In all cellular communications, as a mobile user moves
to the edge of a cell and signal strength diminishes, they are
automatically and seamlessly connected to the next available
cell. This is a core functionality in cellular systems. To
do this, the base stations
have to communicate with
each other and the handset.
The phone needs to find a station with available channels and sufficient signal strength. If the next nearest cell
(the logical one to use) is at capacity, the handover might
be to another base station that is further away but has available capacity.
Previous mobile telephony (1G to 4G)
Before discussing how 5G works, let’s go over the previous generations of mobile telephony.
Before 1G, various mobile phone systems were in use in
Fig.5: user-captured data
of the location of Telstra
4G LTE base stations
around the Melbourne
CBD. They are placed in
convenient locations and
don’t necessarily conform
to the idealised layout
shown in Fig.4. This map
was generated at www.
cellmapper.net – you can
use this website to show
cellular base stations in
any area or country.
14
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: the Telstra 5G
coverage map around the
greater Melbourne area at
the time of publication. It
is not nearly as complete
at this stage as 4G.
Australia and elsewhere. In 1950, the PMG (the predecessor
of Telecom and then Telstra) introduced a manually-connected mobile telephone service using equipment manufactured
by AWA. It only supported hundreds of connections, and
there was a long waiting list for service.
In 1981, Telecom launched the Public Automatic Mobile
Telephone System or PAMTS (“007 service”). It operated at
500MHz in the mainland capitals until 1993, and could support up to 14,000 services on 80 base stations. It was very
expensive for equipment and to use.
For a US video about an early mobile telephone service
see the video titled “1940s BELL EARLY CELL PHONE /
MOBILE TELEPHONE SYSTEM 90884” at https://youtu.be/
xDy2tHCPdk8
1G was an analog system. AMPS (Advanced Mobile Phone
System), or 1G as it is now also known, was developed
throughout the 1970s and 1980s and was introduced into
Australia in 1987, starting with just 14 base stations in
Sydney and Melbourne. The maximum data throughput on
1G was 2.4kbps. AMPS was fully closed by 2000.
2G, the replacement for 1G, was a digital system, launched
in 1993 in Australia. It was implemented by two different technologies depending on who the carrier was; either
CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) or GSM (formerly Groupe Spécial Mobile, now Global System for Mobile
Communications).
Australian authorities significantly delayed the introduction of these services as they wanted exchanges modified to
make interception of the encrypted calls made possible (see
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3d).
By 2018, all Australian
carriers had shut down 2G
service except on Christmas Island and Norfolk
Island.
2G introduced many current features such as SMS
(short message service) and
MMS (multimedia message
service), multiple users on
a single radio channel via
multiplexing, conference
calls and roaming. The maximum data rate was 9.6kbps in
the initial standard, with enhancements giving 40kbps for
GSM GPRS (General Packet Radio Service) and 1Mbps for
GSM EDGE.
There were interim standards of 2.5G and 2.75G before
3G. Phones that used 2G were not typically in the format
of the large touchscreen devices we have today, although
an early example of a smartphone was the LG Prada from
2007, followed by the LG Prada II in 2008 that supported 3G.
The Prada was announced before the iPhone, and the head
of the LG Mobile Handset R&D Center claimed Apple took
the idea of the iPhone from that device.
3G introduced better internet connectivity for web browsing, video streaming, email and video conferencing. These
features were available on early popular smartphones such
as the original iPhone launched in 2007, the LG Prada II
from 2008 running on Flash UI and the first Android smartphone, the HTC Dream from 2008.
The CPU power of these phones plus the available data
bandwidth finally allowed them to upload photos and video to the internet.
3G is based on UMTS or Universal Mobile Telecommunications System, which itself is based on the IMT-2000
standard by the International Telecommunications Union.
It combines some elements of 2G with other enhancements
for better voice compression and faster data. It uses spreadspectrum technology, whereby the signal is spread across a
range of frequencies.
The minimum data rate for 3G is 200kbps, but the standard calls for stationary speeds of 2Mbps and mobile speeds
Frequency domain
Frequency domain
The broadband tax
Time domain
Time domain
Fig.7: the difference between two multiplexing methods,
ODFM (left) and ODFMA (right). Source: GTA.
siliconchip.com.au
Unbeknown to many, Parliament introduced a “broadband
tax” for users on fixed-line networks other than NBN, to make
the NBN seem more competitive by artificially raising the prices
of alternatives (see siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3e). Products
such as Optus’ 5G Home product are not currently included in
this tax, but that could change in the future.
It is possible that 5G could become the preferred method of
home broadband connections, so this tax could stifle the new
technology. Do we need to explain why politicians shouldn’t be
making engineering decisions?
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 15
Fig.8: beamforming, beam tracking and
MIMO using a smart antenna array.
A beam can be steered by adjusting
the phase and amplitude of multiple
antennas. Multiple propagation paths
due to reflections can be utilised to
send one data stream via numerous
different paths. Multiple data streams
can also be sent on the same path
using different signal polarisations.
The signal of an interfering user on the
same frequency can also be nulled out
using this technique. Source: Ericsson
of 384kbps. The maximum theoretical speed for the latest
implementation of 3G, HSPA+ (evolved High-Speed Packet
Access) is said to be 168Mbps download and 22Mbps upload.
3G was introduced in Australia in 2003. Later implementations of 3G were known as 3.5G, 3.75G, 3.9G and 3.95G. 3G
LTE (Long Term Evolution) is similar to 4G, and sometimes
called by that name, but it is really a “sub-4G” technology
and is sometimes referred to as 3.95G.
4G is based on Internet Protocol communications (IP telephony) for voice, unlike previous generations which used
traditional circuit-switched telephony (where a dedicated
end-to-end communications channel is established for each
call). It also allows conventional internet services such as
multimedia, web browsing, email, gaming, video conferencing etc with high speed and security.
Unlike 3G, it does not use spread spectrum. Instead, it
uses the key technology of OFDMA (Orthogonal FrequencyDivision Multiple Access) on the downlink, which allows
multiple users to share a single frequency.
It also uses MIMO (Multiple Input Multiple Output),
whereby multiple antennas in a ‘smart’ array communicate
with multiple users via a single radio link by exploiting multipath signal propagation.
ODFMA allows fast data communications despite multipath signal propagation. The relevant standard specifies
peak data rates of 100Mbps for low-speed users and 1Gbps
for high-speed users.
Later versions of 4G include 4.5G and 4.9G. 4G LTE was
introduced into Australia in 2011, although as mentioned
above, LTE is really sub-4G or 3.95G. However, the ITU (International Telecommunications Union) has ruled that LTE
can be called 4G while real 4G is called “True 4G” [as if it
wasn’t confusing enough already! – Editor].
5G frequencies
If no 5G service is available, a 5G phone will fall back to
an available 4G service.
In Australia, current 4G networks use frequencies in certain
bands from 700MHz to 2.6GHz. Due to government policy,
the first phase of 5G is in the 3.6GHz frequency band, from
3575MHz to 3700MHz.
Most modern WiFi routers operate at both 2.4GHz and
Fig.9: beamforming and beam steering with multiple antennas
in a line. They are indicated by blue dots, and all transmit
the same signal; the more antennas, the more directional
the beam. The beam can be steered by altering the phase
and amplitude of each antenna, causing constructive or
destructive interference and changing the lobe position. Beamsteering in three dimensions requires a two-dimensional
antenna array. Source: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3f
16
Silicon Chip
MIMO
Fig.10: multipath propagation of signals as used in WiFi, 4G
and 5G. MIMO utilises multiple antennas and transmitters
to send signals along numerous pathways to one or more
receivers. Each receiver can receive multiple signals from
various pathways. Source: Wikimedia user Claudeb.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.11: approximate existing and
new spectrum allocation for 5G
worldwide. 5G can use the existing
mobile spectrum plus the mmWave
spectrum of 26-86GHz. The higher
the frequency, the higher the data
rate, the smaller the cell size and the
greater the number of users in a given
geographical area. In Australia, only
the 26GHz band is currently allocated
for mmWave 5G.
5GHz. If you have one at home, you may have noticed that
the 2.4GHz signal reaches more areas of the house, but it has
a lower data rate than the 5GHz signal. The initial 5G frequency is almost exactly in the middle of those two frequencies.
The very high speeds achievable with 5G require mmWave
(~25-300GHz) frequencies to be used which are not yet commissioned. The Australian government will auction part of
the 26GHz band for 5G use, 25.1-27.5GHz, in 2021.
It is not clear what 5G frequency ranges Australia might
use in future, apart from the two mentioned above. Naturally, the network operators will use a combination of frequencies, not just one. Overseas, some 5G operators use low-band
frequencies 600-700MHz, mid-band of 2.5-3.7GHz and highband of 25-39GHz, with the possibility of higher frequencies
in the future.
It is likely that in the future, the spectra of legacy services
such as 3G and 4G will be released for use by 5G, as well as
mmWave frequencies up to 86GHz.
Consider that if you are buying a new 5G phone, you may
wish to make sure it supports both mmWave frequencies as
well as the 3.6GHz band. It’s not clear what will happen in
Australia, but in the USA, a Samsung Note 10+ was offered
by two different carriers with each having their own version.
Low frequency
cells 700MHz
Large scale events
Thousands of users
One version supported 5G on sub-6GHz only, and the other
supported mmWave only.
Key 5G technologies
Apart from the use of certain technologies and features
from earlier generations of mobile telephony, 5G introduces
or enhances several techniques including but not limited to:
1) Multiple users on a single radio channel. ODFMA was
mentioned above concerning the downlink for 4G LTE, and
is used for both data uplink and downlink on 5G. To understand ODFMA, we first look at OFDM (Orthogonal Frequency
Division Multiplexing) – see Fig.7.
The bandwidth is divided into multiple subcarriers with
a fixed spacing and transmitted in parallel. Each subcarrier
can be individually modulated. In ODFM, users are allocated
a specific timeslot in which they can use the entire range of
frequencies. In ODFMA, users are allocated a timeslot and a
frequency domain, and the subcarrier spacing can be variable
and is flexible. So a channel could be given to a single user,
or many. In ODFMA, multiple users can use a single channel by assigning subsets of subcarriers to particular users.
2) Smart antennas are antenna arrays that use a combination of hardware (antenna and radio system) and software,
High frequency
cells 3.2-3.8GHz
Vehicle communications
Transport Infrastructure
Environmental
monitoring &
smart cities
Millimetre wave
cells 26GHz
Transport &
Infrastructure
Improved residential
connections,
smart energy
Fig.12: approximate frequency ranges for different cells sizes and possible applications. The smaller the cell size, the
higher the frequency and the greater the number of users and data rate, but the shorter the range. The lower frequency
cells cover the largest areas and provide the longest range but also the lowest data rate (purple shading). The medium size
cells are indicated by blue shading and the smallest cells by the green beam pattern.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 17
Peak data rate
(Gbit/s)
Enhanced Mobile
Broadband
User experienced
data rate
(Mbit/s)
Area traffic
capacity
(Mbit/s/m2)
Massive Machine-Type
Communications
Spectrum
efficiency
Ultra Reliable &
Low Latency
Fig.13: the original 5G vision. These are new or improved
features over previous generations, on top of all existing 4G
functions. Source: Samsung.
including smart signal processing algorithms, to identify the
direction of a received signal from a user.
They then calculate the required transmission pattern to
form a directional beam aimed at a mobile receiver, and track
it as the receiver moves.
They are also used to generate multiple beams on multiple independent pathways to one or multiple users. Smart
antenna arrays are used for both beamforming and tracking,
and simultaneously for MIMO or massive MIMO (see #4).
3) Beam-forming and beam tracking (see Figs.8 & 9). At
3.6GHz, building penetration is not as good as lower frequencies.
These two technologies help to improve that. Instead of a
base station transmitting a beam in a 120° radiation pattern,
wasting transmission power and connection slots, the 5G
antenna array tracks the user, and both directs (tracks) and
focuses (forms) a pencil-like beam toward them.
This results in much better building/foliage penetration
than would otherwise be the case. Tests have shown that at
3.5GHz, 5G can get penetration as good as a unidirectional
1.8GHz beam as used by 4G.
Due to poor building penetration at mmWave frequencies, 26GHz and above, it is particularly important to use
Mobility
(km/h)
Network
energy efficiency
Connection density
(devices/km2)
Latency
(ms)
Fig.14: a spiderweb chart comparing 4G and 5G. The peak
data rate goes from 1Gbps to 20Gbps. “User experienced
data rate” refers to the minimum achievable data rate in a
real-world environment and goes from 10Mbps to 100Mbps.
Latency (delay time for a data packet) is improved from
10ms to 1ms. IMT-advanced is the International Mobile
Telecommunications advanced standard for 4.5G, and IMT2020 is the standard for 5G. Source: ETSI.
beamforming and tracking at these frequencies. When the
base station is receiving from a specific user, the beamforming antenna works in reverse, to capture the signal from a
particular user.
4) Massive MIMO (see Fig.10). Multiple-input multipleoutput is a method to increase the capacity of a radio link by
exploiting multipath propagation to send and receive more
than one data link over the same radio channel. Both 4G and
Fig.15: an illustration
showing the diverse nature
of 5G communications. At
the centre is an antenna with
massive MIMO (multiple-input
multiple-output), allowing radio
beams to be directed toward
particular users. D2D stands for
“device to device” communications.
Small cell transceiver
18
Silicon Chip
User equipment (UE)
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
4G ANTENNA
5G ANTENNA
Fig.16: the directional nature of massive MIMO antennas on 5G makes it possible to direct radio energy to a specific user
rather than in all directions as with, say omnidirectional antennas (left). This helps, to some extent, to overcome the more
limited building penetration possible for radio signals at higher frequencies.
WiFi use this. Standard MIMO uses either two or four antennas, while massive MIMO uses many more.
5) 5G can perform full-duplex data transmissions, that is,
data can be sent and received at the same time on the same
frequencies, not on separate frequencies as was previously
required. This saves radio spectrum.
6) mmWave for higher data rates and more users due to
greater frequency availability, and shorter ranges mean a
higher cell density is possible too.
7) 5G client communications are designed to minimise
power to increase battery life. For example, better focused
RF beams mean that less power is required to communicate
over the same range.
8) The 5G network is based on virtualisation, using software rather than purpose-built network infrastructure. Functions like network routing, packet processing, security, and
many others are performed in software rather than hardware.
It is somewhat akin to the concept of a software-defined radio (SDR).
9) The 5G carrier network routes calls and data through
the shortest paths, unlike 4G, where calls had to go through
the core network. There is interoperability with other networks and connections such as 3G, 4G, WiFi and Bluetooth.
Multiple protocols can be used simultaneously.
10) Device-to-device (D2D) communications. 5G devices
can communicate directly with other 5G devices without
using a carrier network. Usage examples include vehicleto-vehicle and vehicle-to-roadside device communications.
11) “Network slicing”, to create service-specific sub-networks for specific applications or customers. An example
might be a network dedicated specifically to the Internet of
Everything (see the video titled “what is internet of everything” at https://youtu.be/6Mm8pN6lSSQ), with a large number of low-data-rate devices, or another network dedicated
to reading utility meters.
Each network slice has specific characteristics optimised
for an individual customer’s business requirements. This
also relates to “multi-tenancy”, to created logical networks
for independent service providers.
Complicating the changeover to 5G
Moving from 1G to 2G to 3G to 4G allowed essentially the
same towers and other base stations to be used, with only the
antennas and equipment needing to be changed.
But because of the lesser range and penetration of 5G radio
beams, many more base stations have to be built than now
exist for 4G, especially to utilise the mmWave frequencies
siliconchip.com.au
when they become available.
Bonding 4G and 5G
As it will take some time to roll out 5G services fully, a
5G phone can fall back to a 4G service, or it is also possible to utilise 4G and 5G services simultaneously (if both are
available) to get higher data throughput and network capacity. This also ensures that a connection is maintained to the
greatest possible extent.
This dual connectivity technology is also known as EUTRAN New Radio Dual Connectivity (EN-DC) or just Dual
Connectivity EN-DC. E-UTRAN is another name for 4G LTE,
and New Radio is 5G NR. This is a distinct approach from
2G, 3G or 4G when devices were connected only to one technology at a time, having to switch modes to fall back to an
earlier one.
Mobile phone cell sizes
The ultimate objective is to cover an entire country with
cellular coverage. This is easily achievable in smaller countries with a high population density, but it is very difficult
and expensive with a low population density such as in Australia. In remote areas, a satellite phone is the preferred communications method (see our article in November 2017 at
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10863).
Nevertheless, the vast majority of Australians are rarely
out of mobile phone connectivity.
With current technology, cells can vary in overall size.
Originally, cells were “macro” sized. Their size was and
still is dictated by usage density and signal strength. The
A world first for Australia
During the Commonwealth Games in Brisbane in 2018, Telstra
provided the world’s first 5G-powered WiFi hotspots. These were
free WiFi hotspots with a 10GB download limit per day that people
could connect to with the WiFi on their normal mobile phones.
But the connection between the Telstra network and the Telstra
WiFi hotspot was via 5G (see Fig.22).
Connection speeds between the Telstra network and the WiFi
hotspot (the “backhaul speed”) of 3Gbps could be obtained. Since
5G phones were not then available, it was a way of demonstrating some benefits of 5G. A speed of 3Gbps would allow 1000
HD-quality movies to be streamed simultaneously.
At the same time, Telstra revealed its 5G-enabled “Connected
Car” on the road using the Intel 5G Automotive Trial Platform,
with a connection speed of 1Gbps and its own WiFi hotspot.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 19
more users, the smaller the cell was made due to capacity
limitations. The maximum size is limited by the send and
receive capability of a mobile handset, which depend on
reception sensitivity, transmitter strength and antenna type.
Apart from reducing cell size to cope with more users,
with certain 5G frequencies, the cell size needs to be reduced to compensate for reduced range. 5G can utilise a
variety of frequencies from just under 1GHz up to 86GHz.
Frequencies above 30GHz are known as millimetre-wave
as the wavelength at 30GHz is about 10mm, dropping to
around 1mm at 300GHz. In 5G terminology, frequencies
above 26GHz are referred to as millimetre wave or mmWave.
As mentioned above, the ACMA (Australian Communications and Media Authority) will auction the mmWave
spectrum to prospective telcos in the first quarter of 2021
(see Figs.11 & 12).
While higher frequency signals can provide higher data
speeds, they have less range and are more affected by fac-
tors like fog, rain and tree foliage. Unlike the 4G signals
we are used to which can propagate many kilometres, the
maximum range of mmWaves in 5G is of the order of just
500m or so, assuming line of sight and no rain or tree foliage.
However, 5G can achieve the same range as 4G when
lower frequencies are used.
Due to the lower range of mmWave signals, there needs
to be many more base stations compared with 1-4G. It is
anticipated that they will only be installed in high usage
areas such as the CBDs of cities, train stations, sports stadiums, high-density urban areas and so on.
Small 5G base stations similar in size to WiFi routers
could also be installed in the suburbs, at locations such
as on power poles, on apartment buildings or other existing structures.
Optus is already using 5G to deliver wireless internet to
home customers as a substitute for NBN. Future developments using mmWave 5G for home broadband could delivFig.17a (left): This tower in Melbourne, ACMA SITE ID
570447 is shared by Telstra (25m height), Optus (20m height)
and Vodafone (19m height) and supports Telstra 3G, 4G &
5G, Optus 3G & 4G and Vodafone 2G, 3G & 4G. All of these
services have 2x2 or 4x4 MIMO. Note the triangular pattern
of antenna placement to give 120° per array. With MIMO,
transmission environments with a large number of good
scatterers such as buildings allow a higher data rate due to
the multiple signal paths. Weak scatterers such as vegetation
do not result in improved data rates.
Fig.17b (below): The upper portion of the tower shown
at left, which has the Telstra 3G, 4G and 5G antennas. At
the moment no active mmWave antennas are installed on
that tower, just 5G at 3605MHz with 2x2 MIMO. The small
rectangular antenna is probably the one for 5G.
20
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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4G/Sub-6-GHz 5G
Antenna
mmWave 5G
Antenna 1
3G/4G/
GPS/WiFi
Antenna
3G/4G
Antenna
mmWave 5G
Antenna 2
4G/Sub-6-GHz 5G
Antenna
Fig.18: this concept drawing shows how multiple antennas
can be integrated into a mobile handset. These include 3G,
4G, 5G (both sub 6GHz and mmWave), GPS and WiFi. Note
that there are multiple antennas for each of 3G, 4G and 5G.
Source: Wonbin Hong via Semantic Scholar.
er wireless broadband using an outdoor antenna at speeds
ten times faster than a fibre NBN connection.
How is 5G different from previous standards?
Distinguishing new features for 5G as compared to previous generations include the three main aims of developers, in addition to all previous functionality from 4G (see
Figs.13 & 14), which were:
1) Enhanced mobile broadband. This attempts to achieve
significantly improved download speeds from 100Mbps
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.19: the Qualcomm Snapdragon X50 modem-RF system for
use in mobile devices or to replace fibre-to-the-home (FTTH)
installations with wireless 5G connections. The modem chip
(X50, bottom left) can support up to four QTM052 mmWave
antenna modules (top) and up to 5Gbps download speeds.
It supports beamforming, beam steering and beam tracking
and both the sub-6GHz band and mmWave band. It can be
combined with a Snapdragon processor with an integrated
4G LTE modem to give 4G/5G dual connectivity. The
Australian 5c coin for comparison is 19.4mm in diameter.
(minimum) to 20Gbps per user for uses such as high definition (HD) video, virtual reality and augmented reality.
Downloading a 15GB HD video takes 120 seconds at 1Gbps
on 4G, but could be done in six seconds at 20Gbps on 5G
under ideal conditions.
Even with weak reception conditions such as at a cell
edge, the aim is to achieve 100Mbps. All users in crowded
areas such as sports stadiums and airports are expected to
have full HD streaming capability.
2) Ultra-reliable and low-latency communications. Low
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 21
A very interesting app
Fig.20: a Taoglas Aurora
CMM.100.A 5-6GHz C-Band
Massive MIMO Phased Array
antenna for a 5G base station.
It employs massive MIMO
and beamforming and has 64
individual antenna elements,
each with two polarisations
to give an effective 128
antenna elements. Multiple
panels can be clicked
together to make an even
larger array.
While writing this article, we
came across an Android app
called “Aus Phone Towers”.
This plots mobile base stations
on a map along with the frequencies, operator and technology used and also tells you
which one you are connected
to and the signal distribution.
It uses the ACMA database for
transmitter locations.
You may be surprised just
how many mobile base stations there are near you. Other
apps to look at are OpenSignal
and Network Cell Info.
latency means short delays, while reliable communication is critical for tasks such as robot remote control; for
example, a surgical robot or autonomous vehicle. It’s even
more essential for couch potatoes who are “pwning n00bs”
in Call of Duty or Fortnite. Err, we are referring to online
gaming, of course.
4G latency is typically in the tens of milliseconds, but
with 5G the aim is less than 1ms. Consider an autonomous vehicle remotely controlled via the mobile network.
With the 10ms delay on 4G, a vehicle travelling at 70km/h
(20m/s) will have travelled about 20cm (1/5 of a metre) before a command is received, but will have only travelled
2cm or 20mm after 1ms.
Real-world latency for 4G can be much higher than 10ms
according to some reports, so the difference will be even
more stark. If the mobile network is also being used for
sensor feedback from the vehicle, the delay (and thus travel distances) will be doubled due to the data ‘round trip’.
Short delays are also crucial for online automated stock
trading (so much so that stock trading companies move
closer to stock exchange computers to minimise latency
due to the speed of light, giving a competitive edge). In the
future, these transactions might be made over 5G instead
of a wired connection.
3) Massive machine-type communications. This refers
to the Internet of Things (IoT) with numerous devices connected to the internet such as washing machines, refrigerators, agricultural machinery and irrigation systems, cars
and autonomous vehicles and nearly anything else you can
(or cannot yet) imagine.
One million devices being connected in one square kilometre is an aim. That’s one device every square metre.
Apart from this original vision, many other features have
since been added to 5G.
5G or 5G NR?
You may hear the term 5G NR (New Radio) instead of
5G. 5G is the overall technology, but 5G NR refers to the
early first release of the standard. It is not “pure” 5G just
as LTE is not pure 4G.
The standard is written and maintained by the 3G Partnership Project or 3GPP (www.3gpp.org). It was named
during the development of 3G, but the organisation has not
changed its name despite also developing 5G.
Mobile phone range
In the days of analog mobile phones (AMPS or 1G), the
distance between the phone and the cell tower was restricted only by signal strength and line-of-sight considerations. There is an online report of someone placing a
call between the Telstra Black Mountain tower in Canberra
and the tower in Cooma, 107km away.
In the case of 2G or GSM, there was a definite distance
limitation of 35km due to signal timing considerations.
With 3G, there is no intrinsic distance limitation, and
100km is achievable with the correct antenna (with Tel-
Fig.21: a 5G mmWave phased array base station antenna module from Gapwaves for
integration into complete antenna systems. The assembly ready for integration is at left
with its component parts shown on the right.
22
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.22: a Telstra 5G-connected WiFi hotspot as used in the Brisbane Commonwealth
Games in 2018.
stra and possibly other carriers there was an earlier 80km
limit imposed by software).
As reported in 2007, Telstra had several special 200kmrange towers in its Next G (3G) network (see www.zdnet.
com/article/telstra-boosts-next-g-reach/).
4G also has no intrinsic distance limitation. There are
reports that Telstra tested connections at 75km. Extreme distances
are not likely to be achieved with
a phone’s internal antenna; an appropriate external antenna such
as a Yagi is required.
As stated earlier, 5G can
achieve similar ranges compared
to 4G using the lower frequencies, but the higher frequencies
required to achieve the lofty
bandwidth goals have a much
shorter range.
It has been estimated that to
provided 100Mbps download
speeds to 72% of the US population and 1Gbps to 55% would
require 13 million utility-polemounted 28GHz base stations at
a cost of US$400 billion.
Therefore, for maximum range
and utility 5G, will need to continue to use lower frequencies
when range is more important
than speed.
5G antennas
As 5G antennas must be capable of operating in the sub6GHz band, they are not dissimilar to 4G antennas.
Separate mmWave antennas may be used for the mmWave
frequencies 26GHz and up (see Figs.15-21).
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 23
High Power
Ultrasonic
Cleaner
Part 1
By John Clarke
This large and powerful Ultrasonic Cleaner is ideal for cleaning
bulky items such as mechanical parts and delicate fabrics. It’s
also quite easy to build and is packed with features.
Y
ou’ve probably seen the small,
low-cost ultrasonic cleaners available online. They are
great for cleaning items like jewellery,
glasses etc.
But what if you want something a
bit bigger and more powerful, to suit a
wider variety of cleaning jobs?
Cleaning fuel injectors or an old carburettor or any other intricate parts
is a messy and time-consuming task,
24
Silicon Chip
requiring soaking in harsh solvents
such as petrol, kerosene or degreaser
and scrubbing with various brushes to
clean up the parts. It is a difficult and
tedious task, and often does not reach
the small apertures that are usually the
essential areas to cleaned.
Our Ultrasonic Cleaner makes this
task so much easier. Just place the components in a solvent bath, press a button and then come back later to remove
Australia’s electronics magazine
the parts in sparkling clean condition.
It will even clean internal areas! It uses
a high-power piezoelectric transducer
and an ultrasonic driver to release the
dirt and grime with ultrasonic energy.
For more delicate parts, the power
can be reduced to prevent damage to
the items being cleaned.
How does it work?
A metal container is filled with a solsiliconchip.com.au
Features
• Drives a nominal 40kHz, 50W or
60W-rated transducer
• Adjustable power level
• Power level display
• Stop and Start buttons with run
operation indication
• Auto-off timer from 20 seconds to
90 minutes
• Soft start
• Over-current and startup error
shutdown and indication
• Power level diagnostics
• Automatic or manual transducer
calibration
• Standing wave minimisation
• Supports a resonance frequency
of 34.88Hz to 45.45kHz
vent, deionised water, or normal hot
water and a detergent or wetting agent.
The ultrasonic transducer agitates the
contents of the bath; at higher power
levels, the ultrasonic wavefront causes cavitation, creating bubbles which
then collapse. This is shown in Fig.1.
As the wavefront passes, normal
pressure is restored, and the bubble
collapses to produce a shockwave.
This shockwave helps to loosen particles from the item being cleaned
(Fig.2). The size of the bubbles is dependent upon the ultrasonic frequency; they are smaller with higher frequencies.
We are using the commonly available bolt-clamped Langevin ultrasonic
transducer, depicted in Fig.3. It comprises piezoelectric discs sandwiched
between metal electrodes. The centre
bolt not only holds the assembly together, but is critical in ensuring the
piezo elements are not damaged when
being driven. The bolt is torqued to a
pre-determined tension and locked
(glued) in place to prevent it loosening.
The bolt tension ensures the piezo
discs always remain in compression
even while it is operating, preventing
the discs from breaking apart.
When a voltage is applied to the piezoelectric discs, forces are generated by
the piezo elements that move the two
metal ends closer together and then further apart at the ultrasonic drive rate.
Our Ultrasonic Cleaner drives the
piezo transducer at close to its nominal 40kHz resonant frequency.
Fig.4 shows the power applied versus frequency for the particular ultrasiliconchip.com.au
The “works” of our Ultrasonic
Cleaner before the transducer
is attached to the cleaning bath. Operation
is pretty simple: turn on, set the timer and
push the “start” button!
sonic transducer we are using. It claims
to have a resonant frequency of 40kHz
with a 1kHz tolerance either side of this
frequency. We found that the transducer
resonates at 38.8kHz under load.
The transducer drive frequency
needs to be controlled to within a
fine tolerance to maintain a consistent power level. A small change in
frequency from the resonant point
will reduce the power quite markedly. Additionally, their impedance
Figs.1 & 2: the sound waves
produced by the Ultrasonic
Cleaner rapidly create and
destroy bubbles in the liquid.
When the bubbles collapse,
they generate localised shockwaves. This ‘cavitation’ stirs up the solvent
layer that’s in contact with the dirt, grease and grime, helping to break it
up and more rapidly dissolve it away. You can do this by hand – it’s called
scrubbing – but it’s a tedious job, and it’s hard to get into nooks, crannies
and internal spaces in the parts being cleaned!
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 25
Scope1: the gate drive to Q1 (top trace, yellow) and Q2
(bottom trace, cyan) measured at pins 5 and 6 of IC1. The
vertical cursors show the dead time when both Mosfets
are not driven as 2µs. That is for when Q1 switches off
and Q2 switches on; the dead time is the same between Q2
switching off and Q1 switching on.
varies depending on load. So when
operating in free air, the impedance
is much lower compared to when the
transducer is driving a bath full of
cleaning fluid.
Circuit details
The circuit of the Ultrasonic Cleaner
is shown in Fig.5. It is based around
a PIC16F1459 microcontroller (IC1).
This controls the two Mosfets (Q1 and
Q2) that drive the primary windings of
transformer T1 in an alternating fashion. T1 produces a stepped-up voltage
of 100V AC (RMS) to drive the ultrasonic transducer.
IC1 also drives the power LED
(LED1) and level LEDs (LED2-LED6);
plus it monitors the timer potentiometer (VR1) and switches S2 and S3,
used for starting and manually stopping the cleaner operation.
IC1 also monitors the current flowing through Mosfets Q1 and Q2 at its
AN11 analog input, at pin 12. And it
controls the soft-start charging of the
main bypass capacitor using transistor Q5 and Mosfet Q6.
Transformer drive
A complementary waveform generator within IC1 is used to drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2 in push-pull mode. The
transformer is centre-tapped to allow
this type of drive. IC1’s PWM generator includes an adjustable dead time,
Fig.3: this shows the construction of the ultrasonic
transducer that we’re using. Two piezoelectric (ceramic)
discs are sandwiched between the two halves of the body,
with electrodes to allow a voltage to be applied across the
piezo elements. The compression of the piezoceramics due
to the tension from the bolt holding the whole thing together
is critical to preventing early failure from the ultrasonic
vibrations.
26
Silicon Chip
Scope2: the lower trace (cyan) shows the transformer output
voltage when driving the ultrasonic transducer at 39.26kHz.
The top trace shows the current measurement voltage at the
AN11 input of IC1 (TP1). 4.18V represents a 2.98A current
driving the transformer primary with a 12V supply. This
equates to approximately 35.8W delivered to the transducer.
so that there is time for one Mosfet to
switch off before the other Mosfet is
switched on (Scope1). This prevents
‘shoot-through’ which would otherwise cause the Mosfets to overheat.
IC1’s RC5 and RC4 digital outputs
provide the complementary gate drive
signals for Mosfets Q1 & Q2. Since
these outputs only swing from 0V to
5V, we are using logic-level Mosfets.
Standard Mosfets require gate signals
of at least 10V for full conduction, but
logic-level Mosfets will typically conduct fully at 4.5V, or sometimes even
lower voltages.
With the STP60NF06L Mosfets we
are using, the on-resistance (between
drain and source) is 14mΩ at 30A with
Fig.4: the frequency vs power curve for the transducer
in our prototype. Most transducers with a nominal
40kHz resonance should be similar, but the exact
frequency of the peak will vary, as will the steepness
of the slopes. Hence, our Cleaner has an automatic
calibration procedure to find this peak; the 100%
power setting runs it at a frequency close to the peak,
while lower power settings are at higher frequencies.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
SC
HIGH POWER ULTRASONIC CLEANER
Fig.5: the complete Ultrasonic Cleaner circuit. IC1 produces complementary drive signals to the gates of Mosfets Q1
& Q2, which in turn drive the primary of transformer T1 in a push-pull manner. This results in around 100V AC at
CON3. Current is monitored via two 0.1Ω
Ω shunt resistors at the sources of Q1 and Q2, via amplifier IC2b into analog
input AN11 of IC1; the power is computed from this and a voltage measurement at analog input AN8.
a 5V gate voltage. They are rated at 60A
continuous and include over-voltage
transient protection that clamps the
drain-to-source voltage at 60V.
Q1 & Q2 are driven alternately and
these, in turn, drive the separate halves
of the transformer primary of T1,
which has its centre tap connected to
the +12V supply. When Mosfet Q1 is
switched on, current flows in its secsiliconchip.com.au
tion of the transformer primary winding. Q1 remains on for less than 25µs
(assuming a 40kHz operating frequency) and is then switched off.
Both Mosfets are off for two microseconds before Q2 is switched on. Q2
then draws current through its section
of the T1 primary winding and remains
on for the same duration as for Q1.
Both Mosfets remain off again for two
Australia’s electronics magazine
microseconds before Q1 is switched
on again. The gap when both Mosfets
are off is the “dead time” and accounts
for the fact that the Mosfet switch-off
takes some time.
Without dead time, the two Mosfets
would both be switched on together
for a short duration. This would cause
massive short-circuit current spikes,
not only resulting in overheating of the
September 2020 27
Mosfets but also drawing large current
spikes from the supply filter capacitor
and DC power supply.
The alternate switching action of
the Mosfets generates an AC square
wave in the secondary winding of
transformer T1. With a turns ratio of
8.14:1 (57-turn secondary and 7-turn
primary), and 12V AC at the primary,
the secondary winding delivers about
98V AC to the piezoelectric transducer.
ducer is switched off.
This voltage represents an average
of 350mV measured across each 0.1
resistor, or a 3.5A average current flow.
That’s calculated as (4.9V÷14) ÷ 0.1.
An over-current error is indicated
by flashing LED2, LED4 and LED6 on
the front-panel level display. When
this happens, the power will need to
be switched off and restarted to resume
cleaning. If the problem persists, the
cause will need to be found.
Standing waves
Running the Ultrasonic Cleaner at a
constant frequency near resonance is
efficient, since the impedance of the
transducer is almost purely resistive
under those conditions. However, this
is not ideal for minimising standing
waves within the cleaning bath. Standing waves can build up in strength
while the frequency remains constant.
These waves are caused by reflections from the parts being cleaned and
the tank walls being in-phase. This can
damage delicate parts.
Our Ultrasonic Cleaner has the option of reducing the power for use with
delicate parts, but even larger parts can
have delicate sections within them, especially in thin-walled cavities.
To avoid standing waves, the frequency can change over time to prevent the constant phase of the waveform, which would cause constructive
interference at various locations in the
bath. As the power versus frequency
graph shows, changing the frequency
even by a small amount will drastically
alter the power. So it is not ideal if the
frequency is varied continuously, as it
reduces the cleaning power.
Instead, we operate the transducer
at a fixed frequency for 10 seconds at
a time, then run it over a range of different frequencies for a short time before returning to the maximum power
frequency for another 10-second burst.
In the intervening time, the frequency varies in small 37.5Hz steps over a
2.4kHz range for around 400ms. That
means that power is reduced only
about 4% of the time. The cycling in
frequency alters the phase of the ultrasonic vibrations in the bath, giving
time for standing waves that occur
during the fixed frequency period to
die down, thus preventing them from
building up to a damaging level.
Over-current protection
Over-current protection for the Mosfets is provided in two ways. Both rely
28
Silicon Chip
Power control
The 40kHz transducer is available
both here in Australia and online.
Note, though, that if you do buy online
you need to make sure you get a 40kHz
type – there are other frequencies
available and they look pretty much
identical. (See the panel on P31).
on current detection via the voltage
across the 0.1 between the sources
of Q1 and Q2 and ground.
The first method uses NPN transistors Q3 and Q4. These have their baseemitter junctions connected across
those 0.1 current-sense resistors.
Over-current starts when the voltage
across the 0.1 resistor exceeds about
0.5V, ie, with more than 5A through either Q1 or Q2. The associated transistor Q3 or Q4 then begins to conduct.
The current flowing from its collector
to its emitter reduces the gate voltage
to the associated Mosfet. This has the
effect of increasing the Mosfet on-resistance, which then reduces the current.
This protection is a fast-acting, cycleby-cycle protection measure.
At the same time, the voltages across
the two 0.1 current-sense resistors
are averaged by a pair of 10k resistors and filtered by a 100nF capacitor.
This averaged voltage is then applied
to non-inverting input pin 5 of op
amp IC2, which amplifies the signal
28 times (27k ÷ 1k + 1). The averaging effectively halves the sensed
voltage, since only one of Q1 or Q2 is
on at any given time.
So this results in an overall amplification of 14 times. The output
from pin 7 of IC2b is measured by the
AN11 analog input of IC1 (pin 12) –
see Scope2.
This voltage is converted to a digital
value and processed by IC1. Should
this voltage stay at 4.9V or more over
a 160ms period, the drive to the transAustralia’s electronics magazine
The current measured at the AN11
input is also used for controlling the
power applied to the ultrasonic transducer. The maximum power rating of
the transducer is 50W, but this is not
a continuous rating. The recommended continuous power is 43W. We limit
power to a more conservative 36W. For
a 12V supply, the current required for
this power is 3A.
During operating, the current is
monitored via AN11 and the drive
voltage is also sampled, via a resistive divider, at analog input AN8 (pin
8). This allows the micro to calculate
the power flowing into the transformer as the frequency is adjusted, so that
it can maintain the power at the required level.
IC1’s instruction clock is derived
from its internal oscillator, and thus
the PWM output frequencies are derived from this as well. The internal oscillator can be adjusted in small steps
using the OSCTUNE register. This can
vary the internal oscillator frequency
over a 12% range in 128 steps. For the
40kHz drive to the ultrasonic transducer, this allows a 4.8kHz control range
in steps of 37.5Hz.
The 37.5Hz step resolution is sufficiently small to drive the ultrasonic
transducer at the desired power level.
However, the OSCTUNE register does
not have sufficient frequency range
to ensure we can drive an ultrasonic
transducer that is resonant outside the
range of 37.6kHz to 42.4kHz.
To widen the operating range, the
unit calibrates itself automatically
(it can also be initiated manually).
This finds the approximate resonant
frequency of the transducer using a
coarser adjustment. Fine-tuning is
then done via OSCTUNE; this allows
a variety of different transducers to
be used.
This coarser calibration is performed using the PR2 register, which
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner
1 double-sided PCB coded 04105201, 103.5 x 79mm
1 double-sided PCB coded 04105202, 65 x 47mm
1 panel label, 115 x 90mm (see text)
1 diecast aluminium box, 115 x 90 x 55mm (Jaycar HB5042)
1 50/60W 40kHz ultrasonic horn transducer (resonance
impedance 10-20) [see text]
1 12V DC 60W switchmode supply or similar
[Jaycar GH1379, Altronics MB8939B] OR
1 12V battery (10Ah or greater) with 5A+ rated twin lead
1 EPCOS ETD29 13-pin transformer coil former,
B66359W1013T001 (T1)
[RS Components 125-3669, element14 1422746]
2 EPCOS ETD29 N97 ferrite cores, B66358G0000X197 (T1)
[RS components125-3664, element14 1422745]
2 EPCOS ETD29 clips, B66359S2000X000 or equivalent (T1)
[RS components 125-3668, element14 178507]
1 6A SPST mini rocker switch (S1)
[Altronics S3210, Jaycar SK0984]
2 SPDT momentary push button switches (S2,S3)
[Altronics S1393]
2 switch caps for S2 & S3 [Altronics S1403]
1 5A PCB-mount barrel socket, 2.5mm ID (CON1)
[Jaycar PS0520, Altronics P0621A]
1 5A barrel plug, 5.5mm OD x 2.5mm ID
[Jaycar PP0511, Altronics P0165] (optional)
1 vertical 2-pin pluggable header socket with screw terminals
(CON2) [Jaycar HM3112+HM3122]
1 2-way PCB mount screw terminal with 5.08 spacing (CON3)
[Jaycar HM3130, Altronics P2040A]
1 14 pin box header (CON4) [Altronics P5014]
1 14 pin IDC plug (for CON4) [Altronics P5314]
1 14-pin IDC transition plug (CON5) [Altronics P5162A]
2 3AG PCB-mounting fuse clips (F1)
1 4A 3AG fuse (F1)
1 10k 16mm linear potentiometer (VR1)
1 knob to suit potentiometer
1 20-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (for IC2)
3 TO-220 silicone washers and bushes
4 stick-on rubber feet
Transducer housing parts
1 50mm length PVC DWV (Drain, Waste and Vent) fittings; end
cap (Holman DWVF0192) and adaptor (Holman DWVF0022) or
1 40mm length of 50mm ID pipe
1 cable gland for 3-6.5mm cable
Neutral cure silicone sealant (eg, roof and gutter)
Epoxy resin (eg, JB Weld)
Parts for testing
1 100mm length of 0.7mm tinned copper wire
4 9mm-long M3 tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws
extra length of 0.63mm diameter enamelled copper wire
sets the period and thus the frequency
of the PWM drive waveform. For our
circuit, this provides steps of approximately 540Hz. We restrict the coarse
adjustment range to be from 34.88kHz
to 45.45kHz. This range caters for all
siliconchip.com.au
Cables, wiring & hardware
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw (for REG1)
3 M3 x 9mm machine screws (for Q1, Q2 & Q6)
4 M3 hex nuts
1 cable gland for 3-6.5mm diameter cable
1 800mm length of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire
(T1 primary)
1 3.6m length of 0.63mm diameter enamelled copper wire
(T1 secondary)
1 1m length of 0.75mm square area dual sheathed cable or
figure-eight wire (for transducer connection)
1 160mm length of 5A (1mm2) hookup wire
1 200mm length of 14-way ribbon cable
8 PC stakes
1 30mm length of 5mm heatshrink tubing
(for S1 connections)
1 roll of electrical insulating tape
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F1459-I/P microcontroller programmed with 0410520A.
hex (IC1)
1 LMC6482AIN CMOS dual op amp (IC2)
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator (REG1)
2 STP60NF06L logic level N-Channel Mosfets (Q1,Q2)
3 BC547 NPN transistors (Q3-Q5)
1 SUP53P06-20 P-channel Mosfet (Q6)
1 13V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 1N5404 3A diode (D1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D2)
6 3mm LEDs (red or green) (LED1-LED6)
Capacitors
1 4700µF 16V low-ESR PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF MKT polyester
4 100nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1% unless specified)
4-band code 5-band code
1 1M brown black green brown brown black black yellow brown
2 100k brown black yellow brown brown black black orange brown
1 27k red violet orange brown red violet black red brown
1 20k red black orange brown
red black black red brown
8 10k brown black orange brown brown black black red brown
7 1k brown black red brown
brown black black brown brown
2 47 yellow violet black brown yellow violet black gold brown
2 0.1 1W (SMD 6432/2512-size; Panasonic ERJL1WKF10CU or
similar) [RS Components 566-989]
transducers that have a nominal 40kHz
resonance.
So the transducer’s resonance is
found to within 540Hz by adjusting
PR2, and this value is stored in nonvolatile flash memory. OSCTUNE can
Australia’s electronics magazine
then vary the frequency at least 1.8kHz
above and 1.8kHz below the value initially set by the PR2 register (1.8kHz ≈
2.4kHz - 540Hz).
Different power levels are available
by adjusting the drive frequency. The
September 2020 29
10k pull-up resistors. A closed switch
is detected when it is pressed as the input is pulled to 0V.
Note that we are using pushbutton
changeover switches that have common
(C), normally closed (NC) and normally
open (NO) contacts.
The pins on the switch are in a line,
with the common pin at one end, NO
in the middle and NC at the other end.
Usually, that means that you would
need to orientate the switch correctly
on the PCB for correct operation.
However, we have designed the PCB
pattern so that either orientation will
work by wiring the C and NC connections together on the PCB.
Power supply
This shows what the completed Ultrasonic Cleaner will look like when we cover
the construction and testing side next month. We’ll also show you how to set up
your ultrasonic cleaning bath using cheap “cooking” containers.
highest power is at the frequency closest to resonance, while lower power
levels use a frequency above resonance
that has the transducer producing a
lower power.
Nine power levels are available, ranging from 100% (36W) down to 10%
(about 3.6W). Depending on the transducer characteristics, the lowest power
level may not be available.
LED indicators
LEDs2-6 indicate which of the nine
power levels is selected, with LED2 lit
to indicate the lowest power level. The
next step up is with LED2 and LED3 lit,
then LED3 and so on until LED6 only
is on, showing the highest power level.
The power level is adjusted by holding down the Start switch. It will then
cycle up through the nine possible levels to the maximum, then down again.
The switch can then be released at the
desired level setting. The transducer
is not driven during power level adjustments.
The On/Run LED (LED1) shows
when power is applied to the circuit.
This LED also acts as an operation indicator. The LED goes out during trans30
Silicon Chip
ducer calibration and then lights when
the required value for PR2 is found.
This takes a few seconds, unless
there is something wrong, such as when
there is no transducer connected.
Once running, LED1 only lights
when the transducer is being driven
at the required power setting; it acts
an ‘in lock’ indicator.
When the Stop switch is pressed, the
drive to the transducer ceases, the level
LEDs go off and the power LED turns
on. LED1 then goes out when the main
power source is switched off via S1, or
if the supply itself is disconnected or
switched off.
Cleaning timer
VR1 is the timer control. The voltage from its wiper is applied to the
AN9 analog input of IC1 (pin 9), and
it varies between 0V and 5V. This corresponds to a timer range from 20 seconds through to 90 minutes.
The timer starts when the Start
switch is pressed. After the selected
period, the transducer drive stops.
Switches S2 and S3 connect to the
RA0 and RA1 inputs of IC1 respectively. The inputs are held high (at 5V) by
Australia’s electronics magazine
12V DC power for the circuit is fed
in via CON1. It needs 4A minimum. If
using a 12V battery, it should be rated
at 10Ah or more. Power is switched
by S1, which is wired back to the PCB
using a plug-in screw connector and
socket (CON2). Power then passes to
the 5V regulator (REG1) via reverse polarity protection diode D2. Linear regulator REG1 provides the 5V required
by IC1 and IC2.
12V DC also goes to Mosfet Q6 via
fuse F1. This Mosfet is used as a softstart switch to charge the large 4700µF
low-ESR bypass capacitor slowly. Without soft starting, charging the 4700µF
capacitor would cause a substantial
surge current. This can blow the fuse
or cause a 12V switchmode supply to
shut down.
When power is first applied, Q6 is
off and the 4700µF capacitor is not
charged. When the Start switch is
pressed, the RC3 output of IC1 goes to
5V and this switches on transistor Q5.
The gate voltage of P-channel Mosfet
Q6 then begins to drop towards 0V
as the 10µF capacitor charges via the
100k resistor to the collector of Q5).
As the Mosfet begins to conduct, it
slowly charges the 4700µF capacitor.
After half a second, the gate charging is
stopped by switching off Q5 and after
a 250ms delay. The voltage across the
4700µF capacitor is then measured using the AN8 analog input of IC1.
If the voltage across the capacitor
is under 9V (3V at AN8), all the level
LEDs flash twice per second. This indicates that either the 4700µF capacitor
is leaky, or there is a short circuit causing the capacitor to discharge. Power
can then be switched off, and the fault
investigated.
siliconchip.com.au
If there is no error, Q5 is switched
back on, to continue charging the gate
of Q6. It takes one second for the gate
to drop 7.5V below the source, at which
time Q6 is almost fully on. After a few
more seconds, the gate voltage will be
very close to 0V, leaving the full 12V
between the gate and source. Zener diode ZD1 protects the gate from overvoltage by limiting the gate-source
voltage to -13V.
Reverse polarity protection for the
power section of the circuit is via a
4A fuse F1, diode, D1 and the integral
reverse diodes within Mosfets Q1 and
Q2. These diodes conduct current, effectively clamping the supply voltage
at -0.7V and protecting the 4700μF
electrolytic capacitor from excessive
reverse voltage. This current will
quickly blow the fuse and cut power.
The bath
The ultrasonic transducer needs to
be attached to the outside of a suitable container. This can be made from
stainless steel, aluminium or plastic
so that the ultrasonic vibration is efficiently coupled to the fluid. Stiffer
materials couple the ultrasonic waves
with fewer losses.
Ideally, the bath should have a flat
side or base where the transducer can
be attached. The material also needs
to be compatible with the epoxy resin used to glue the transducer to the
bath. Metals are the most compatible
material.
We found a series of “gastronorms”
at a kitchen supply shop that are ideal. These are the types of food containers you often see at buffets. They slot
into steam tables that keep the food
warm, and they are available in various shapes and sizes, with several good
options at or near the ideal 4L volume.
You can get them made from stainless steel, polycarbonate or polypropylene with the first two options being the best.
We got ours (pictured) from www.
nisbets.com.au (they have shops in
NSW, Vic, Qld & ACT).
We recommend either the 150mmdeep ¼ gastronorm tray (capacity 4L),
the 100mm-deep 1/3 gastronorm tray
(capacity 3.7L) or the 100mm-deep ¼
gastronorm tray (capacity 2.5L).
The 150mm-deep ¼ tray is tall and
rectangular while the 100-mm deep 1/3
tray is more square and shallow. The
other tray is in-between the other two.
You can also get stainless steel or
siliconchip.com.au
If I knew you were comin’ I’d’ve baked a cake . . . these are some of the stainless
steel containers we found at a kitchen supply shop which would be ideal for this
project. Choose the size and depth which best suits your application.
clear or black polycarbonate lids to
suit all these, which would be a good
idea if you’re cleaning with a strongsmelling solvent (especially if you plan
to leave the solvent in the bath when
you aren’t using it).
Larger sized baths with more liquid
will have a lesser cleaning effect than
smaller containers with less fluid.
The fluid used in the bath can be tap
water with a few drops of detergent as a
wetting agent. Other fluids that can be
used include deionised water, alcohol
(methylated spirits, isopropyl alcohol
etc), acetone or similar solvents.
Cleaning effectiveness is greatly enhanced when the fluid is warmed. Filling with around four litres is ideal for
the power available from the ultrasonic
transducer.
With deeper containers, it might be
possible to fill them with less liquid
for cleaning smaller items.
However, you would need to recalibrate the unit after each fluid lev-
el change, and you might find that it
would shut down with less liquid in
the tank due to the transducer impedance dropping, and the power delivery
going above 40W.
This approach would require some
experimentation for successful use.
The recalibration procedure will be
described later. Note also that you
would need to mount the transducer
quite low on the container (or on the
base) to allow different fluid levels
to be used.
Conclusion
Next month, we will present the
construction details including how to
wind transformer T1, the PCB assembly steps, wiring it up, encapsulating
the transducer, case preparation and
final assembly.
We’ll also describe the testing and
calibration procedures, plus give some
hints on how to use the Ultrasonic
SC
Cleaner most effectively.
Obtaining the parts for your Ultrasonic Cleaner . . .
As usual, you can order the two PCBs
and the programmed microcontroller for
this project from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE
SHOP – see pages 104 & 105 for details.
We have also decided to stock the ultrasonic transducer, as it isn’t all that easy
to find locally. Jaycar did sell a 50W rated
transducer (Cat AU5556), but according to
their website, it has been discontinued.
Our transducers are rated at 50W and
are designed for 40kHz operation. They
should be in stock by the time the second
and final part of this article appears next
month (Cat SC5629 <at> $54.90).
Australia’s electronics magazine
You can get the remaining parts for
this project from the usual suspects: ie,
Jaycar and/or Altronics; or element14
or RS Components for the more specialised bits.
You could also get almost all of the
parts from Digi-Key overseas; they offer free express delivery to Australia or
New Zealand for orders over AU $60.
The PVC parts for the transducer
housing are available at hardware
stores like Bunnings, while containers
for the bath are available from Nisbets,
as described above.
September 2020 31
The Aussie
electrical
plug and
socket:
Where did it come from?
By
John Hunter
Most people never give it any thought, but have you considered where the design
of the three-pin plug and socket used in Australia, NZ, and the South Pacific
came from? Did you know it was actually an American design?
B
eing part of the British Empire,
it was natural that Australasia
would choose British wiring
methods. So, it was hardly surprising that 200-250V AC mains supplies
were adopted, with what was initially
called the “Swan” base for light bulbs.
This was named after the British
inventor of the incandescent lamp,
Joseph Swan.
This soon became known as the bayonet base, which is still used today.
But what about plugs and sockets for
other appliances?
Electricity to homes was initially for
lighting only, so the ubiquitous socket
on the wall, known as a power point
(or “GPO” – General Purpose Outlet,
in electrical parlance) did not exist yet.
At the beginning of the 20th century,
there were few domestic appliances
as we know them today; just carbon
filament lightbulbs.
Refrigeration was not yet in a form
suitable for domestic use; there was
32
Silicon Chip
no radio or TV, and heating or cooking appliances were run from combustible fuel. However, this being a time
of creative invention, other uses were
Fig.1: typical of early appliances, this
toaster is connected to the mains with
a bayonet plug.
Australia’s electronics magazine
found for this electric supply. Soon
came an explosion of all kinds of appliances running from “clean” and
“labour saving” electricity.
Such appliances were invariably
based around motors and/or heating
elements. Table fans, toasters, irons
etc started to appear. Having acquired
such an appliance, the next thing to
consider was where to plug it in.
The only place, of course, was into
a light socket. Thus, appliances came
fitted with bayonet plugs (or Edison
screw plugs in the USA) – see Fig.1.
To use such an appliance and not be
in the dark at the same time, bayonet
double-adaptors were available, with
one socket for the light bulb and the
other for the appliance (Fig.2).
While this worked, it was a pain
having to climb up to the light socket
every time to connect or disconnect
the appliance. Also, the light sockets
could only supply up to about 5A; no
good for a 2.4kW radiator!
siliconchip.com.au
The origins of this fea
Fig.2: before
wall-mounted
sockets,
appliances were
connected to
light sockets
with bayonet
adaptors.
Also, no Earth connection was available. Nevertheless, this method of connecting low-power appliances was
still common into the 1950s. It is not
uncommon to see advertisements for
appliances from that time still with a
bayonet plug.
For most appliances, wall-mounted
sockets are clearly far more practical.
In the USA, a plug and socket were developed by Harvey Hubbell with two
flat parallel blades, to take the place of
the wall-mounted Edison screw socket. Hubbell remains one of the largest
manufacturers of electrical accessories
in the USA to this day.
Flat blades were chosen to mimic a
knife switch, with its inherently reliable contacts.
Britain and Europe used various cylindrical pin configurations. Although
Continental Europe has persisted with
a multitude of incompatible plug designs, the two-pin “Europlug” goes a
long way to solve this problem, for
double-insulated appliances at least
(Fig.3).
The UK replaced their multitude of
round pin plugs and sockets with the
square-pin BS1363 plug in 1949.
Fig.3: the two-pin “Europlug” fits most
Continental sockets, where different
methods of Earth connection prevent
full compatibility of three-pin plugs.
siliconchip.com.au
Way back in the Jan
uary 2002
issue, we published
a letter from
some bloke with the un
likely name
of “Dick Smith” which
read (in part):
“By the way, how ab
out doing
some interesting invest
igation. 3-pin
mains plugs like those
we have in
Australia seem to be
the same as
used in parts of China
, New Zealand and Argentina.
Where did our 3-pin
plug and
socket design come fro
m and why
are they the same as
used in those
other countries?”
Since his name was cle
arly made
ture . . .
up, we had no choice
but to ignore
him. But then we got an
other e-mail
earlier this year from,
you guessed
it, a Mr D. Smith sugge
sting the very
same thing.
That lead to a little
discussion
over some aspects of
the Aussie
GPO, so we did a bit
of Googling.
Then we discovered
that John
Hunter (who’s written
for us in the
past) is apparently a bit
of an expert
on the subject.
Well, Mr Smith (if that
is your real
name!) – we hope tha
t this article
lives up to your expe
ctations.
Australia
By the 1920s, Australia was using
the British cylindrical pin plug and
socket, but the two-flat-pin American
plug was also in use. Sometimes one
still sees ancient examples of these
two-pin fittings in second-hand building material centres, still on their timber mounting blocks.
Clipsal still makes the parallel twopin plug (Cat 492) and socket, which
is approved for 250V where an Earth
connection is not required, although
these days it’s usually used with imported 120V equipment. However, the
polarised version of this plug which
appeared in the USA later, with a
wider Neutral pin, was never used
here (Fig.4).
This can be a problem with some
step-down transformers, fitted with
the locally-made socket, if modern US
appliances are to be plugged into them.
While electrical safety wasn’t given
the attention that it gets these days, it
was realised that Earthing appliances
was necessary, thus requiring three
pins. Both the British and Americans
had a three-pin plug which was being
used here (Fig.5).
The British plug was, of course,
a cylindrical pin design, while the
American one used flat pins. It was
not, however, their three-pin plug of
today (known as NEMA 5-15), but had
two angled pins for the supply, and
another flat pin beneath for the earth.
It was imported by General Electric,
and was what most would recognise
today as the “Australian” plug (see
Figs.6-12). Americans know it as the
“crowfoot”.
This early three-pin plug design
was not popular in the USA because
of incompatibility with their existing
two-pin plug. Nevertheless, there are
plenty of surviving examples. It was
considered obsolete before the NEMA
(National Electrical Manufacturers
Association) standards came into being, and was never allocated a type
number.
Around 1930, an attempt was made
by Clipsal and Ring Grip (the predominant electrical accessory manufacturers at the time), along with the State
Electricity Commission of Victoria, to
adopt the American design as the Australian standard. It was chosen over the
Fig.4: these plugs and the NEMA 5-15
sockets were introduced to North
America after Australia had adopted
their old two- and three-flat-pin
configurations, and were not used
here. The wider Neutral pin ensures
consistent connection polarity.
Fig.5: a selection of old American
and English two- and three-pin plugs
and sockets. These were commonly
used in Australia prior to the
American 3-pin type (at right) being
standardised in Australia and New
Zealand.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 33
Fig.6: three flat-pin fittings from a Canadian GE catalog, from 1915 (left) and
1920 (right). This three-pin American plug was patented in 1916 by G.P. Knapp
of the Hubbell Company.
British design because it was easier for
local manufacturers to make flat pins.
An article published at that time
(see Fig.14) states
“Efforts now being made by the Electrical Association of N.S.W. to standardise the types of power plugs in use
will receive enthusiastic endorsement
from many consumers.”
“The necessity for improvement
along this line is indicated by the results of the association’s investigations. In reviewing the existing position, a collection was made of every
plug on the market. The amazing result
was an array of 71 distinct versions.”
“... After examining and testing
every variety, the association decided
that the ‘three-pin flat pin’ type of 10
ampere capacity was most suitable. Its
advantages are positive contact, giving
consistent efficiency and a high degree
of safety (the third pin being an earth
connection).”
“Accordingly, this plug has been
recommended to the Standards Association of Australia by the New South
Wales trade body. The electrical traders of Victoria and South Australia are
also in agreement, and have endorsed
the recommendations.”
The US design (Fig.15) was officially adopted in 1938 by the Australian Standards, with the only modification being to shorten the pins by
about 2mm.
Fig.16 shows the difference in pin
length before and after the standard
was officially adopted.
In “Radio & Hobbies in Australia”,
the “Serviceman Who Tells” article
for December 1951 stated that mains
sockets for the service bench should
include a bayonet socket, a two-flat-
Fig.7: the original Hubbell patent. It
shows the common use of an Edison
screw lamp socket to provide power
to appliances.
Fig.8: examples of US-made sockets
in the author’s collection. These fit the
modern Australian plug perfectly, and
are rated at 125V/15A or 250V/10A.
34
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
pin socket and various cylindricalpin sockets. This indicates that a significant number of these fittings were
still in use then.
Safety features
Some power points in Australia
have had shutters, but they are not
compulsory.
A particularly problematic type of
shutter arrangement was used in some
sockets from the 1950s. It is actuated
by the Earth pin of the plug being inserted, which then uncovers the Active and Neutral connections.
This became a problem when twopin plugs started to appear in the
1960s.
One would have to insert something into the Earth pin receptacle before inserting the plug, or plug in via
a three-pin double adaptor, or simply
dismantle the power point and remove
the shutters.
Soon after, power points with shutters relied only on the Neutral pin
being inserted, solving this problem.
Fig.9: examples such as these
sometimes appear on the USA eBay
website.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.10: this Hubbell adaptor converts
NEMA 5-15 to ‘crowfoot’.
While one could still insert something
into the Neutral socket, the polarity
had been standardised, so there was
minimal shock hazard.
Power points for portable applications, such as caravans, are required to
have double-pole switching since they
may be used with extension cords with
unknown wiring polarity.
A further attempt at improving safety came in the late 1990s, when proposals were made to recess sockets, as
is common in Europe.
This was unpopular because of the
multitude of existing plugs and plugpack transformers, which would not fit
into recessed sockets. However, extension cord sockets fitted with a shroud
did appear.
In 2005, an alternative safety measure was introduced where plug pins
were required to be insulated at the
plug body end.
Use elsewhere
Fig.11: unless one knew that Hubbell
is a US manufacturer, the assumption
would be that this socket was made in
Australia.
Like Australia, NZ also imported
electrical equipment and accessories
from the USA, so it is perhaps not coincidental that both countries were
using the same fittings.
However, it is interesting to note
that one wiring manual from the 1970s
stated that British sockets were still
permitted.
Despite this, it does not appear that
they were used then to any extent.
For some years, NZ and Australian
wiring rules have been the same (AS/
NZS 3000), allowing for a few local
exceptions.
Because of the Australian and NZ
influence in the region, the three-flat-
New Zealand also adopted the
American design with apparently
greater initial enthusiasm than Australia. There, another US design, the
two-pin polarised “T” plug had also
been used for 230V, along with the
three-pin and two-parallel pin designs
(see Fig.17).
Fig.12: they are not particularly rare
in the USA either. Here’s one in a
collection of plugs seen on eBay.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.13: this surviving example of a
US-made (General Electric) power
point is located in an old house in the
Central West of NSW. Although still
connected, it is doubtful anything has
been plugged in for many years.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.14: one of several newspaper
articles from 1929-30 explaining the
problem of having around 70 different
types of mains plug and socket in use,
and the need to standardise.
September 2020 35
Fig.15: from Popular Science, April
1942, this shows the three-flat-pin
plug still in use in the USA. Note
that Active and Neutral are swapped
compared to the Australian standard.
pin plug design is standard throughout Commonwealth areas of the South
Pacific.
Argentina also adopted the threeflat-pin American plug, but the Active
and Neutral connections are reversed
to that used elsewhere, following the
original US configuration (Fig.18).
The plug design is classified under
the IRAM 2073 standard.
Because of the polarity difference,
Fig.16: the plug at left is a very
early HPM, while the modern plug
on the right has shorter pins, as
specified by the 1938 standard. The
slight difference does not cause any
compatibility problems.
power leads and accessories for the Argentine market cannot be sold in Australasia and vice versa. But in reality,
someone travelling between South Pacific countries and Argentina wouldn’t
have any problems.
Properly designed appliances accommodate the possibility of transposed Active and Neutral connections.
China is a late adopter of this plug
design (see Fig.19). It is difficult to find
Fig.17: this advertisement from 1939 mentions the three types of American plug
in common use in New Zealand.
36
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
any information on when and why it
was adopted.
However, Chinese power points also
allow the insertion of two-pin American and two-pin European plugs, usually via a separate socket on the same
plate but sometimes with extra holes
in the same socket (a bit like a multisystem travel adaptor).
Unlike Australia and NZ, they are
not switched, and the socket appears
upside-down to the usual convention.
This is apparently a safety measure, so that if something conductive
falls across a partially inserted plug,
it’s less likely to form a short-circuit
between Active and Neutral (in the
modern Australian plug, the pin base
insulation provides a similar benefit).
The Active/Neutral polarity in China is the same as Australasia.
Papua New Guinea was a territory
of Australia until 1975 and naturally
adopted Australian wiring practices.
Other Pacific islands such as Pitcairn
Island, Fiji, Vanuatu, Tonga etc use
Australian/NZ wiring practices, since
accessories are imported from these
countries.
Polarity was not originally
standardised
There was no official Active/Neutral
polarity convention initially. After all,
AC has no polarity, so an appliance
will work connected either way round.
In fact, until the 1960s most plugs were
not even labelled as to which pin was
Active (sometimes known as “live”,
“line”, “hot”, or “phase”); only the
Earth pin was designated.
There was even a common doubleadaptor design which reversed the polarity of one socket, since it was easier
to make that way (see Fig.20).
Appliances from the 1950s wired in
the factory with the red (Active) and
black (Neutral) wires transposed in
the plug are not uncommon. With a
history of using bayonet light sockets
and two-pin plugs, it was assumed that
appliances could be connected either
way round (see Fig.23). This approach
continued even into the 1970s.
For this reason, where a switch was
provided for a portable appliance,
it was usually a double-pole type.
Switched light sockets, as used with
desk or standard lamps, are a common
example of this.
This was not as unsafe as it seems.
The first generation of power points
used separate switches and sockets.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.18: an Argentine power point.
Although this one is switched, that is
not mandatory, unlike in Australia.
They were not a complete assembly, with switch integral to the socket (known as “combinations”) – see
Fig.21. It was mandatory that Active
was switched, but how the socket was
connected after the switch was not
critical. So, if the switch was off, the
appliance was dead with either connection.
However, there was a “recommended” standard which eventually became official, apparently during the
late 1960s.
This stated that, looking at the socket, the pin at upper left was Active.
An easy way to remember this is that
a modern single GPO has the switch
on the left and is thus closest to the
Active pin.
Australia & NZ probably adopted
this convention for that very reason.
With most people being right-handed,
it is natural to insert the plug with the
right hand, leaving the left to operate
the switch. In the USA, where sockets are not usually switched, this was
irrelevant.
As to why Australian sockets are always switched, early documentation
from the 1920s explains this. At the
time, it was noted that flexible cords
were a somewhat common cause of
fires and other faults. Therefore, it was
safer to switch off the appliance before
the flexible cord, rather than leaving
it live when not in use.
Not always Earthed
Many years ago, I took the cover off
an ancient porcelain socket in a house
that must have been wired in the late
1920s, and was rather surprised to see
no Earth wire connection.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.19: Chinese socket also allows the
insertion of non-polarised two-pin US
and European plugs.
It was a typical power point of the
era, with the switch and socket mounted on a 6in x 3in timber block. It was
probably the first generation of the
three-flat-pin socket used in Australia.
As I later learned, this lack of Earth
connection was permitted in the wiring rules. The condition was that the
socket had to be Earthed if there were
other Earthed objects within a certain
distance of the power point.
Hence, a power point in a bedroom
might not be Earthed, but one in a
kitchen would be.
This is not as dangerous as it may
seem. Providing there are no other
Earthed objects within reach, and the
appliance becomes live, it’s unlikely
to get a shock from it. Timber floors
and walls make good insulators. To
get a shock from a ‘floating’ appliance
requires you to be part of a complete
circuit to Earth.
It appears this was allowed at least
into the 1950s, and possibly later, but
eventually it became compulsory to
Earth all sockets.
It was also in the 1970s that an Earth
connection became required for all
light fittings, even if out-of-reach of
an Earthed object.
Fig.20: a common older doubleadaptor design shows that the Active
and Neutral polarity was not initially
standardised as the adaptor swapped
Active and Neutral top to bottom.
points and switches were mounted
on timber blocks. This, along with
split seam steel conduit, was a legacy of British methods. While surfacemounted fittings and timber mounting
blocks were still being installed later
than this, flush-mount switches and
power points were preferred for their
modern appearance.
These, like their US counterparts,
sometimes had the switch and socket
with separate cover plates, although
single-unit “combinations” had appeared. Where the switch and socket
Wall box dimensions
It may also surprise some that it
wasn’t just the three-pin socket we
adopted from the USA, but also their
wall box dimensions. Not only are the
switch plate dimensions the same, but
the screws used to secure the switch
or socket have the same 6-32 thread.
Australian fittings fit into a US wall
box perfectly well, and vice versa.
Until the late 1940s, most power
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.21: with separate switches and
sockets, the socket polarity could be
either way. The only requirement was
that Active was switched.
September 2020 37
Fig.23: the 1960s HPM plug on the
left shows Live and Neutral polarity
identification, but the older Ring Grip
only shows the Earth connection.
GPO plate orientation
Fig.22: this assortment of power
points shows the different pin
orientations which have been used.
Present standards require the Earth
pin at the bottom.
were still separate behind a standard
cover plate, the polarity of the socket
was still not guaranteed. By the 1960s,
power points were being made with
the mechanisms being part of one unit,
with an integral switch plate.
MEN system
The MEN (Multiple Earth Neutral)
system of earthing is another Americanism we adopted. In it, the Neutral is
connected to Earth at the switchboard.
The reasoning is that if the Earth connection to the water pipe (no longer
recommended) or Earth stake has a
high resistance, the fuse will still blow
under fault conditions.
The downside is that if the Neutral
connection fails and the Earth connection is high resistance or non-existent, then the Earth wire, and all that
is connected to it, could be at mains
potential.
What we did not adopt was the
American colour code, instead sticking to the British scheme of red for
Active and black for Neutral. This
later changed to the current scheme of
brown for Active, blue for Neutral and
Green/Yellow for Earth in appliances
and leads, although the old scheme is
still allowed for fixed wiring.
38
Silicon Chip
Even though Australia adopted the
US-style wall plate, one area of departure was that unlike in the USA, power points were mounted horizontally.
Horizontal mounting of power points
was not common in New Zealand.
Instead, they kept to US practice and
most power points there were mounted vertically.
Whether the Earth pin was up or
down was another variable. It’s normally down, but some manufacturers such as Clipsal for a while had it
at the top.
HPM during the 50s and 60s even
had the socket rotated by 90° from the
usual orientation (see Fig.22).
For some time now, the official orientation has the Earth pin at the bottom. The reasoning behind this is that
if a plug should be partially withdrawn
from a socket, hanging down, the Earth
pin will still make contact, with Active
and Neutral disengaging first.
There is an opposing point of view
as implemented in some other countries, notably the UK.
This is that the Earth should be uppermost because if the plug is partially withdrawn and a conductive object
falls into the gap (Venetian blinds are
one recorded example), it will not become live.
As mentioned above, this also possibly explains the Chinese orientation.
Mains voltage
There are many different mains voltages in use around the world, for reasons of development and politics. The
first reticulated power system, implemented by Edison from the Pearl Street
(New York) power station in 1882, was
110V DC. Given the prevalence of arc
lamps at the time, this voltage suited
two in series.
Also, lamp-making technology, being as primitive as it was at the time,
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.24: one common plug and socket
(shown without wall plate), used for
240V in North America.
had difficulty making reliable lamps
for higher voltages. However, as is well
documented, a simple 110V reticulation system was very limited. For any
given power, the current is doubled if
the voltage is halved. But line losses
quadruple due to the I2R rule.
An improvement can be made by
implementing a three-wire system
where two 110V supplies are in series,
giving 220V, with the common connection being Neutral. Provided the
current drawn on both 110V supplies
is close to equal, little current flows
through the Neutral wire, and transmission losses are reduced.
This scheme has been in used in
the USA for a very long time now, except that the supply voltage has since
been standardised at 240/120V, 60Hz.
It does not seem to be widely known
outside the USA, but most residences
there do have a 240V supply. This is
from a 240V centre-tapped winding on
the pole transformer, the centre tap being the Earthed Neutral. However, the
current per 120V branch of the circuit
is still limited. This leads to the situation where domestic appliances that
draw more than 1800W (15A <at> 120V)
require a special 240V socket (Fig.24).
There is a growing trend for American travellers to bring back kitchen
appliances from Europe.
After experiencing the faster heating time of 220-240V kettles and coffee machines, compared to the 120V
version, they are keen to have a 240V
socket installed at home.
Europe
In Europe, there was a mixture of
110V, 127V and 220V at 50Hz AC, or
in a few instances, DC. If 127V seems
siliconchip.com.au
a little odd, it’s the phase-to-Neutral
voltage of a 220V three-phase supply.
However, 220V single-phase/380V
three-phase was adopted as the standard, and the lower voltage systems replaced by the early 1980s. Siemens in
Germany actively promoted 220/380V,
with its advantages over the lower voltage systems.
In Britain, with a very localised
power generation and distribution
system, there was little standard. Anything from 100V DC to 250V AC could
be found, and the AC wasn’t always
50Hz! It depended on who built the
generating equipment as to what the
voltage and frequency would be.
This all changed with the commencement of the National Grid in
1926. Its completion resulted in a
nationwide frequency of 50Hz and a
standard residential voltage of 230V.
It was intended that not only would
the UK use 230V, but so would the rest
of the British Empire.
That didn’t quite happen, with
each country going their own way. In
1946, the UK standard was changed
to 240V AC.
Australian mains voltage
Australia followed British practice and chose 200-250V for the single-phase residential supply, thereby
avoiding the disadvantages of the 110120V system.
Two- or three-phase supply
(400/415V between phases) to homes
is common in Australia.
Apart from providing increased efficiency for all appliances, it is also used
domestically for high-power loads,
such as instantaneous water heaters,
large air conditioners and some workshop equipment.
Australian-made electric ranges allow for a two-phase supply where this
is available.
But the mains voltage in Australia
wasn’t always standardised – see Fig.25.
At one point, New South Wales, Tasmania and Queensland standardised
on 240V 50Hz, with Victoria on 230V
50Hz. Heading west, 210V 50Hz was
used in South Australia, and 250V at
both 40Hz and 50Hz in Western Australia.
There were once two large towns
using 110V: Launceston (50Hz), and
Broken Hill (100Hz). Away from the
capital cities, there was more variation, with 220-250V DC being used in
some towns.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.25: from the Radio Trade Annual, 1937, this shows the variation in
Australian mains supplies at the time.
The reason W.A. was the odd-oneout with regards to frequency is that
the 40Hz generating plant had been
imported from South Africa.
DC mains were also used in a small
part of the CBD of some capital cities.
In Sydney, the DC supply existed in
the northern part of the CBD until the
end of 1985, but by that time remaining only for lift motors.
DC mains was reticulated using the
three-wire system, which meant that
depending on what side of the mains
the consumer was connected to, the
supply could be either positive or negative with respect to Earth.
By the 1950s, plans were afoot to
standardise Australia on 230V 50Hz
in line with the Empire, and many
localities, especially those using DC,
went through the conversion process.
Australia’s electronics magazine
240V areas were to be left as-is, being
within 10% of 230V.
Presumably because the 240V areas
outnumbered the others, this became
the standard instead (although it has
since changed back to 230V).
Victoria changed to 240V in the
early 1960s. Adelaide started to move
away from its 210V supply in the
1950s, and Western Australia dropped
to 240V in 1985.
If it seems like a huge exercise to
convert to a new supply system, it
must be remembered that at the time,
houses had few appliances. In the
1950s, apart from incandescent lamps
in each room, there would be a toaster,
jug, cooking range, and a radio. The
more affluent would also have a refrigerator, washing machine and maybe a
vacuum cleaner.
September 2020 39
Fig.26: the T-socket used for Extra
Low Voltage supplies (up to 32V) at up
to 15A. It is recommended that where
the supply is referenced to Earth, the
bottom pin should be used for this.
All the heating appliances and
lamps previously operating on DC
worked the same on AC. Similarly,
universal type brushed motors work
on either type of supply. Should the
new voltage be markedly different, eg,
converting from 110V to 240V, it was
a simple matter to replace the lamps
and elements, which were all standard types.
In the case of 110V appliances not
easily converted, a step-down transformer could be used. Where the voltage change was minor, appliances like
radios could be switched to a different tap on the power transformer. If
it was part of a radiogram, the pulley
on the turntable motor would have
to be replaced when changing from
40Hz to 50Hz.
The few AC/DC radios usually needed no modification, since most included a barretter to stabilise the valve
heater current, and could accommodate a wide range of voltage.
New Zealand voltages
New Zealand had standardised nationwide on 230V 50Hz right from the
start, although in Wellington there was
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40
Silicon Chip
Above, a special plug and receptacle will maintain the polarity of a cord-connected appliance. Such a plug can be
inserted in only one way.
Fig.27: we can see here the American
origin of the Australian ELV socket.
However, in the USA it was intended
for 120V use. NZ used it for 230V.
an unusual 105V 80Hz supply from a
steam-driven power station. With the
disadvantages of the low voltage supply becoming apparent, it was decided
in the mid-1920s to change to the 230V
standard. This was completed in the
early 1930s, by which time the power
source was hydroelectric.
Australia and the new 230V
standard
Since 2000, the “official” standard
for Australian mains voltage is 230V.
In a sense, this is déjà vu for those
living in Victoria. However, this was
really a case of being politically correct, because the actual voltage was
not changed from the nominal 240V.
The same situation occurred in the UK,
although a few years earlier.
In the 1980s, the IEC proposed to
standardise on two world voltages:
120V and 230V. This was to assist
manufacturers in making electrical
products for a global market. The idea
was that 240V and 220V countries
would “harmonise” their mains voltage. Thus, the UK and Australia, for example, would drop their mains supply
by 10V, and Continental Europe would
increase theirs by the same amount.
In Australia, a “230V Committee”
was established in 1994 to oversee
this transition locally. The perfect bureaucratic situation could be imagined
here, with much paper shuffling but
nothing else.
In effect, nothing actually changed
as far as the consumer was concerned;
all that was done was to reduce the
lower mains voltage limit to -6% instead of the previous -10%. The nominal 240V still falls well within that.
One will note that incandescent lamps
(including halogen types) sold in Australia are still rated at 240V, to reflect
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.28: cylindrical Earth pin
connectors originally intended for
lighting circuits.
the truth of the situation.
As summed up in one letter to the
UK magazine “Practical Electronics”
some years ago the change was “...only
on paper”.
Extra Low Voltage and the
“T” plug & socket
Rural homes not connected to any
public supply usually used 32V DC,
but sometimes 12V, 48V, or 110V DC,
from a set of generator-charged batteries. These would be charged from
a stationary engine or a wind generator. Another American socket had been
adopted for these extra-low voltages
known as a “T” socket (Figs.26 & 27),
but unfortunately, many simply used
the three-pin 240V type instead.
Disastrous results awaited appliances so fitted with a three-pin plug,
when taken to another location and
plugged into a 240V power point. The
two-pin parallel blade plug and socket
has also been used for non-polarised
ELV applications, particularly for 32V
lead lamps. Although not ideal, it does
prevent accidental connection to 240V.
In the modern day, 32V DC systems
only exist in the hands of vintage technology enthusiasts, since appliances
have not been made for this voltage
since the 1960s. Rural off-grid electrical systems today tend to be solarpowered and use 12V DC for small systems. Large systems are usually 240V
AC, inverter-powered from a 24V or
48V battery bank.
The “T” socket (Clipsal 402/32) is
nowadays mainly used for 12V applications, such as in a solar-powered
house, or for caravan, boat, and 4WD
use. It’s also commonly used for portable lead lights powered from 32V AC
isolating transformers.
As mentioned previously, the “T”
siliconchip.com.au
DEAD OR
DYING
BATTERIES
IN YOUR
EBIKE?
Fig.29: the American parallel flat pin non-polarised plug has the same pin
dimensions and spacing as the Australian plug. So it is possible (but not recommended!) to simply twist the pins to enable insertion into an Australian socket.
plug and socket was used in NZ for
230V. At that time, Australia and NZ
had their own independent wiring
regulations.
The present-day status of this connector in NZ is not entirely clear. It is
conceivable there might be very old
installations where sockets of this
kind are still connected to 230V. That
would obviously be unacceptable if it
was also used for ELV.
Cylindrical Earth pins
This was initially introduced for use
on lighting circuits. A typical situation
would be in a commercial building
with a false ceiling. Here, the luminaires are usually connected by flexible cable to fixed sockets (see Fig.28).
However, it never became popular
for that purpose, with the conventional three-flat-pin sockets usually preferred. Instead, the cylindrical Earth
pin configuration became used for all
kinds of “special” applications.
For example, it has been used to differentiate between circuits supplied by
uninterruptable power supplies or isolating transformers, and the ordinary
public supply.
Other uses include connecting remote switches (eg, a switch for a room
light mounted in a bedside table).
Sometimes it is used for low voltages,
despite the existence of the “T” plug
and socket. Essentially, it is used where
compatibility with the standard mains
connector is undesirable.
With the increase in appliances fitted with two-pin plugs, the design is no
longer as incompatible as it once was.
Therefore, the socket should not be fed
with a voltage or frequency that could
siliconchip.com.au
damage a normal mains appliance.
Once upon a time
Until the 1980s, it wasn’t uncommon
to see two-pin US plugs being used in
Australian power points, as shown in
Fig.29. This came about mainly from
Japanese electronic equipment being
sold in Australia from the 1960s onwards.
Overseas travellers would also bring
back appliances from foreign dutyfree stores.
Because the pin dimensions and
spacing are the same, a simple twist
with a pair of pliers will enable the
plug to fit into an Australian socket.
There is, however, a shock hazard
where the twisted pins prevent the
plug from being fully inserted, and the
plug has too narrow a body.
There is also evidence that this
weakens the pins and/or the connection to the cables.
It is also handy to know that European plugs will fit into a standard appliance cord as used with old electric
jugs and toasters. However, this should
not be done where an Earth connection
is required.
As regulations were tightened, all appliances sold in Australia must now be
compliant with Australian Standards.
References
• Practical Electrical Engineering,
Vol. 2, Newnes.
• Radio Trade Annual, 1937.
• Electronics Australia, January 1986.
• Amateur Radio Action, Vol.9, Issue 12.
• Evening News, Sydney, January 21st,
1930, p15.
SC
• Popular Science, April 1942.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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September 2020 41
by
Andrew Woodfield
Using fewer than
twenty inexpensive parts,
this compact little audio
oscillator can fit into your
shirt pocket, yet it delivers a
super-accurate sinewave
when and where you need it.
It even fits into a snazzy
3D-printed case!
A Shirt-Pocket
Crystal-locked
Audio DDS
Oscillator
C
ing tested. That can be handy in some
ler, a rotary encoder with integrated
ompact, battery-powered test
audio test setups.
push switch for output frequency segear is really useful if you have
lection, a compact I2C OLED display
to travel a lot. It can be invaluCircuit description
to show the selected frequency, and a
able for some professional tasks in reThe complete circuit of the audio
crystal for accurate timing.
mote places, or you can use it to work
oscillator is shown in Fig.1. It uses an
A few other passive components
on your own projects while out and
Atmel ATtiny85 8-pin microcontrolcomplete the design.
about, should the opportunity arise.
The ATtiny85 micro (IC1) forms
This equipment must be small,
the heart of the design. Its main clock
light, and inexpensive. It’s all too
is generated using a standard 8MHz
easy for equipment to be damcrystal with two 15pF ceramic load
aged or lost.
capacitors, and its internal oscillaThis oscillator is equally usetor amplifier.
ful around the workbench. It deThe small 64x32 pixel OLED dislivers very accurate audio tones,
play is used to show the selected
just like much larger and more
audio output frequency. A customexpensive equipment.
designed font provides excellent disBeing battery-powered and in a
play clarity. It connects to the
small plastic case, it’s easy to
Actual size of the case (including knobs) is 75 x 30 x
isolate it from the circuit be- 50mm so it will easily fit in your pocket (as shown above). ATtiny85 via a two-wire I2C
42
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
bus (SDA for data and SCL for clock).
Two I2C bus pull-up resistors are
typically connected to each of these
I2C bus lines. Here, these resistors are
inside the OLED display module, reducing the parts count.
Compatible OLED screens are made
by several vendors; most data sheets
give 3.3V as the maximum supply voltage. A few suppliers suggest they can
run off 5V, but we’re keeping it under
3.3V for wider compatibility.
A standard ATtiny85 chip will operate from 2.7V to 5.5V, according to
the Atmel/Microchip data sheet, with a
maximum clock speed of 4MHz at 2.7V.
However, I bench tested more than
30 devices from multiple batches and
found that they will cheerfully operate
down to 1.65V using either the internal or external 8MHz clock.
Therefore, I thought it reasonable to
power the device directly from a battery of two regular AAA cells in series. It’s a simple solution supplying
a nominal 3V for the modest load current of 10mA. The battery life will vary
depending on specific requirements.
The oscillator, including display,
will successfully operate down to the
typical end-of-life voltage of the pair
of AAA batteries, around 1.8V.
Given this, you can expect about
six months of intermittent use, ie, an
hour or so of use every couple of days.
Rotary encoder
The rotary encoder selects the re-
Features & specifications
• Frequency range: 1-9999Hz in 1, 10, 100 or 1000Hz steps (user selectable)
• Frequency accuracy: crystal-locked to within 0.002% at 1kHz
• Output level: 0 – 1.5V peak-to-peak (0 - 530mV RMS) sinewave (3V supply)
• Total harmonic distortion (THD): less than 3%
• Display: 0.49in (12.5mm) 64x32 pixel OLED
• Power supply: 2 x AAA cells <at> 10mA typical
• Battery life: estimated six months of intermittent use
• Enclosure: 3D-printed compact clip-together PLA clamshell or standard Jiffy box
• Size (in clamshell case): 75 x 30 x 34mm (excluding 3D-printed knobs)
75 x 30 x 50mm (including knobs)
• Weight: 75 grams (with battery)
quired output frequency and the tuning step size. The photo overleaf shows
what a typical quadrature rotary encoder with pushbutton looks like.
The circuit arrangement used here
is unusual, detecting rotary encoder
rotation and button pressing with a
single I/O pin on the microcontroller!
Usually, the two quadrature outputs
of a rotary encoder are connected to
separate pins on the microcontroller.
The integrated pushbutton switch on
the encoder then often demands an
additional pin. That would result in
the need for at least 10 pins total on
the microcontroller in this application.
Instead, I have used a basic threeresistor analog-to-digital converter
(ADC) along with a noise-reducing
10nF capacitor to connect all three
switches internal to the rotary encoder
to one micro I/O pin.
The component values used are important. They ensure that the closing
of any of the internal three rotary encoder switches will generate a logic
high-to-low ‘pin-change’ interrupt on
the microcontroller. This allows the
use of an event-driven interrupt handler routine to quickly and efficiently
update the audio oscillator frequency
within the very fast ‘direct digital synthesis’ (DDS) software loop.
This DDS software method prevents the use of the commonly used
periodic timer interrupt, which would
introduce a regular and unacceptable
pause in the sinewave output. The pinchange interrupt method also delivers
an improved encoder response; there
is no need to wait for a periodic timer
to detect rotation or switch closure.
The response to rotating the knob is
immediate.
SC
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
Fig.1: the complete Audio Oscillator circuit. It is based
around microcontroller IC1, an OLED display, a rotary
encoder and an output filter/level control. The filter converts
the 62.5kHz PWM signal from pin 6 of IC1 (which has a varying
duty cycle) into a smooth sinewave by removing the higher
frequency components.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 43
Scope1: the waveform at pin 1 of IC1 when rotary encoder
RE1 is rotated one step clockwise.
Oscilloscope screen grabs Scope1 &
Scope2 show the resulting waveforms
at pin 1 of the micro, for clockwise and
anticlockwise rotation respectively.
The sharply falling leading edge triggers the interrupt.
The two different waveforms which
follow this leading edge for each direction of rotation are then detected by
the software by sampling the analog
voltage on that pin.
The tuning step size is changed using the encoder’s integrated pushbutton. Pressing this pulls pin 1 of IC1
directly to ground, below the voltages
produced by encoder rotation. This
allows the micro to detect the button
press and switch to the next step size
(1, 10, 100 or 1000Hz). The 10nF capacitor prevents switch bounce from
interfering with the process of detecting encoder rotation.
Sinewave generation
The audio output tone is generated
using pulse-width modulation (PWM)
from one of the ATtiny85’s internal
counter-timers, which is fed to its dig-
Fig.2: potentiometer VR1 allows the
output level to be adjusted over the
full range of 0-530mV RMS. However,
if you want switchable ranges, they
could easily be incorporated using a
scheme like this.
44
Silicon Chip
Scope2: the waveform at pin 1 of IC1 when rotary encoder
RE1 is rotated one step anticlockwise. It is almost a mirror
image of Scope1.
ital output pin 6. Its 62.5kHz modulated carrier is higher than usual with
an 8MHz crystal; a tradeoff resulting
in 1% higher distortion.
A simple passive 3-pole elliptical
low pass filter comprising three capacitors and one inductor, after the 1kΩ
resistor from pin 6, filters out the carrier from the wanted sinewave. This
filter has a 40dB notch around 60kHz.
This filter method reduces current consumption and the component count.
The PWM output is matched to the
filter using that 1kΩ resistor. Otherwise, the low output impedance of
the microprocessor pin would cause
increased waveform distortion, particularly below about 1.5kHz. The filtered sinewave output voltage level of
about 1.5V peak-to-peak can be adjusted using the front panel level control
potentiometer, VR1.
Resistor RX is optional. It may be a
simple wire link if the output range is
suitable for your applications, or an
extra resistor can be added to reduce
the maximum level. Alternatively,
a two- or three-way switch and additional resistors could be added in
series with the output potentiometer
to provide a range of output levels, if
space permits.
Fig.2 shows one possible arrangement using a three-way switch. Space
has been provided for wiring this into
the PCB using the connections for RX.
The version described here does not
implement this optional feature, making the finished oscillator as small as
possible.
The output does not include any
DC blocking capacitor. Most equipAustralia’s electronics magazine
ment you would feed the sinewave
into will have an input capacitor. But
if required, a suitable capacitor could
be squeezed into the remaining space
around VR1.
Software
The software is written using a mix
of assembly code and BASCOM, the
BASIC-like compiled language for the
Atmel/Microchip AVR family. Assembly code is used for the core tone generating routine which must be very fast.
Other sections, such as the interrupt
handler code and the I2C and OLED
routines, are written in BASIC as they
are not so speed-critical.
The DDS lookup table contains 256
bytes of data defining the amplitude of
the sinewave over time. The frequency
is precisely determined by the value
of the 24-bit word used to increment
the DDS cycle accumulator. One byte
(eight bits) of this word is used as a
pointer into the sinewave amplitude
data, with the other two bytes (16 bits)
represent the fractional position.
The 24-bit wide accumulator ensures excellent frequency precision,
along with the accurate and stable
crystal-controlled processor clock.
A fast interrupt subroutine handles
the rotary encoder and tuning step size
selection. It looks for specific voltage
changes to determine the direction of
rotation, the number of turns, and the
selection of tuning steps.
The interrupt routine unavoidably
disrupts the output waveform briefly
while the frequency change is being
made. But the waveform is never going to be pure when the frequency is
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being adjusted anyway.
Screen updates for the ultra-compact 64 x 32-pixel OLED display are
sent via the I2C serial bus. The display’s integrated SSD1306 controller
requires careful initialisation to deliver correct operation. Its parameter
settings differ significantly from those
needed for the larger and more common 128x32 or 128x64 OLED displays,
despite using an identical controller.
The display software also makes use
of a purpose-designed character font
for this display, shown in Screen1. It
aims to maximise character clarity and
visibility despite its size. The resulting
four-digit display largely determines
the frequency range of the oscillator.
Displaying frequencies of 10kHz or
above accurately would require five
digits. That would reduce display
clarity beyond acceptable levels, particularly for those of us with reduced
visual ability.
Note that smaller 0.42in (diagonal)
72x40 pixel OLED displays are available but oddly, they are built on a larger
PCB than the 0.49” 64x32 pixel OLED
display I chose! So there is little benefit in using one, but if you have one,
it will work.
The software is also compatible with
some, but not all, 0.96in 128x64 OLED
displays using SSD1306 controllers.
A few of these have extremely slow
(faulty) I2C reset performance and
will not operate correctly with this
software. The software will not work
with any OLED displays fitted with
an alternative “compatible” SH1106
controller.
Rotary encoder selection
The rotary encoder used in this design is critical. It must be a pulse-type
rotary encoder. Unfortunately, these
are visually indistinguishable from
level-type encoders; worse, most suppliers will not tell you which type they
are selling!
Electrically, however, they are quite
different. The two outputs on leveltype encoders change at the ‘click’ or
detent as the shaft is rotated, with the
two encoder output pins remain fixed
in one of the encoder’s four quadrature output states when the shaft is
stationary.
In contrast, pulse-type rotary encoders produce a pair of short quadrature
pulses mid-click, with both encoder
output pins resting open circuit. These
encoders are the most commonly supsiliconchip.com.au
Parts list – Audio DDS Oscillator
1 PCB coded 01110201, 65.5 x 24.25mm
1 8MHz low-profile crystal (X1) [Altronics V1249A]
1 ATtiny85 8-bit microcontroller, DIP-8, programmed with 0111020A.hex
[Jaycar ZZ8721 or Altronics Z5105]
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 pulse-type rotary encoder with integrated pushbutton switch (RE1) [see text]
1 DPDT slide switch (S1) [Jaycar SS0852, Altronics S2010]
1 0.49in 64 x 32 I2C OLED display module [eBay, AliExpress etc]
1 15mH molded radial choke (L1)
[eg, Murata 17156C (Digi-Key) or Murata 22R156C (RS)]
2 2-pin headers and matching sockets (CON1 & CON2; optional)
1 4-pin SIL header socket, ideally a low-profile type (CON3)
1 4-pin header (plugs into CON3; may come with OLED screen)
2 knobs to suit RE1 & VR1 [3D printed or Altronics H6016]
1 2 x AAA side-by-side cell holder (optional; see text)
[Jaycar PH9226, Altronics S5052]
1 pair of small alligator clips [Jaycar HM3020, Altronics P0101+P0102]
1 3D-printed plastic enclosure, assembled size 75 x 30m x 34mm
(or a UB5 Jiffy box – see text)
1 300mm length of light- or medium-duty two-core cable
1 100mm length of red light-duty hookup wire
1 100mm length of black light-duty hookup wire
1 20mm length of insulated solid-core wire (eg, bell wire or breadboard jumper wire)
Capacitors
1 4.7µF 50V electrolytic
1 100nF ceramic
2 33nF MKT or greencap
1 10nF MKT or greencap
1 470pF ceramic
2 15pF ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W 1% metal film)
1 10k
1 3.9k
1 1.8k
1 1k
1 1k linear 9mm potentiometer (VR1) [Jaycar RP8504, Altronics R1986]
Programming Adaptor Board (optional)
1 PCB coded 01110202, 25.5 x 22mm
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 3x2 pin header (CON4)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 100nF ceramic capacitor
1 1k 1/4W resistor
plied at low cost from Asian sources.
This open-circuit condition at the rest
position is critical for generating the
desired encoder interrupt waveforms
A mugshot of the
troublesome rotary
encoder. Unfortunately,
level-type encoders are externally
indistinguishable from the pulse-type
encoders that we need. You just have
to take an educated guess about which
one to order, then test it when it
arrives, using the procedure described
in the text.
Australia’s electronics magazine
used in this design.
These two encoder types can be
quickly and easily distinguished with
a continuity tester. An encoder can be
tested using an ohm-meter or even an
arrangement as simple as a series LED,
resistor and battery as follows:
1. Connect one lead of the continuity meter to the centre pin of the
three (ignore the two on the opposite side).
2. Connect the other lead to one pin
on either side of the centre pin; it
doesn’t matter which.
3. Rotate the shaft one click.
4. Measure the continuity while the
encoder is at rest.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 several times.
September 2020 45
Fig.3: the components mounted
on the PCB, with matching
photos to assist assembly. Don’t
fit CON1 & CON2 when using
the printed case. The wire link
(shown in red) is not needed on
commercially-made double-sided
boards. The OLED screen
(not shown in the photo at right)
plugs into CON3 after the other
components have
If the encoder is a pulse type, the
been fitted.
meter should show an open circuit
(very high resistance) at all rest positions. You should see a brief period
of continuity (low resistance)
while rotating the encoder.
If the encoder is a level type,
the meter will show continuity
on every second detent position and an open circuit on the other
detent positions.
So my suggestion is to order an encoder from a website like ebay, AliExpress or Banggood and then verify that it is the pulse type using the
above method before proceeding with
construction.
Construction
The Pocket Crystal Audio Oscillator is built on a PCB coded 01110201
which measures 65.5 x 24.25mm. I
etched mine at home, but the commercially-made version available in the
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP only costs
a couple of dollars.
Refer to the PCB overlay diagram,
Fig.3, to see which parts go where.
For those making this single-sided
PCB at home, the board may be left
square if it will be fitted into a Jiffy
box, or trimmed carefully along the
curved PCB outline if using the 3Dprinted enclosure.
Construction should begin by fitting
the resistors and then the capacitors.
The single electrolytic capacitor is the
only polarised one; its longer lead goes
into the pad nearest the edge of the
board, marked with a + symbol. Also,
space the 4.7µF electro off the board
by about 1.5mm to allow it to be bent
over when inserted later into the 3D
printed case.
Next, solder the crystal onto the
PCB, followed by the 8-pin IC socket. Ensure that the pin 1 notch on the
socket faces in the direction shown.
If you’ve etched the board yourself,
you need to fit one insulated wire link,
shown in red on Fig.3. The commercial board should have a top layer track
joining these points, so you won’t need
to install a link.
Next, mount the four-way header
socket for the display (CON3), then the
15mH moulded inductor. Follow with
the rotary encoder and potentiometer.
Depending on the type of 9mm potentiometer you purchase, it may either mount directly onto the PCB or
use component lead off-cuts to extend
its leads to allow vertical mounting. If
doing that, it would also be a good idea
to glue the pot body to the board
(eg, using neutral-cure silicone) as
horizontal pots lack the mounting
tabs of the vertical types.
Next, fit a pair of thin, 50mmlong red and black insulated
stranded wires to CON1 for power. You can use a header and
socket or, as I did, simply solder the wires to the PCB pads.
Similarly, connect the 300mm output twin lead to CON2. If you don’t
have twin lead, you could use heatshrink tubing on a pair of individual
light- or medium-duty hookup wires.
Do not fit anything to the other end of
these wires just yet.
Programming IC1
If you have a blank micro, program
it as per the box labelled “Programming the ATtiny85”.
After programming (or if you purchased a preprogrammed micro), plug
it into the socket, ensuring that its pin
1 dot lines up with the notch on the
socket. You may need to straighten its
leads to fit into the socket. Be careful
not to allow any of the leads to fold up
under the chip body during insertion.
Next, plug the OLED display into its
socket on the PCB. The screen is usually supplied with a four-way 0.1inpitch header. If it has not already been
fitted to the display PCB, solder it now.
Next, if you’re using a standardheight header socket for CON3, use
Audio DDS Oscillator
Hz
TUNE
LEVEL
Fig.4: this artwork can be printed,
laminated, cut out and attached to
the front panel of the unit using glue
or double-sided tape. You can also
download this as a PDF from the
SILICON CHIP website.
46
Silicon Chip
Fig.5: renderings of the 3D printed front and rear
panels that form the custom case, along with the 3Dprinted knobs. The associated STL files can be downloaded from our website,
or you can purchase these pre-made. The back panel has an integrated battery
holder, but you need to fabricate or acquire the spring terminals and clips (eg, as
part of the SILICON CHIP kit), as described in the text.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Programming the ATtiny85
If you haven’t purchased a preprogrammed ATtiny85, you will
need to program your blank chip before you can use it. You can
use an AVR ISP programmer such as the USBasp (See www.fischl.de/usbasp/). It can be purchased online from many suppliers,
often for less than $3, including delivery!
Such programmers are used with a PC or laptop; suitable software is available for Windows, Linux and macOS. This description
will focus on the Windows platform.
The drivers for the chosen programmer must be installed before using it. The drivers for the USBasp can be obtained from
the link above.
Programming software is also required. (Freeware) software
for Windows includes eXtreme Burner (siliconchip.com.au/link/
ab3m), AVRDUDESS (siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3n) and Khazama (http://khazama.com/project/programmer/).
There are many websites and YouTube videos describing the
setup and use of these programs. Here is a summary of the procedure required to program the ATtiny85 for this project:
1) Load the USBasp drivers.
2) Plug in and complete the installation of the USBasp programmer. If the option is present on the USBasp programmer, and
some boards support this feature, select 5V operation rather
than 3.3V for programming the ATtiny85.
3) Download the programming software and install it.
4) Open the programming software and select ATtiny85 as the
target device.
5) Download the HEX file for the audio DDS generator and select
it as the file to be used to program the ATtiny85.
6) Plug the six-pin connector from the USBasp programmer into
CON4 on the Programming Adaptor Board (more on this below).
7) Select “Write FLASH buffer to chip” or “Write – Flash” to program the ATtiny85 with the HEX file. The LEDs on the USBasp
will blink furiously for about a minute while the HEX file is being
The ATtiny85 Programming Adaptor circuit just
connects the micro pins to the 6-pin programming
header, with a small power supply bypass capacitor.
a spudger or a sharp-edged blade to
carefully slide off the plastic pin separator from the pin header. Then trim
the four pins shorter by about 2mm.
This allows the display to fit as closely
as possible to the top of the ATtiny85
chip. See the side view photo for an
idea of how it plugs together.
If you were able to get a low-profile
header socket for CON3, that should
not be necessary. It should just plug
straight in, although you may still have
to trim the header pins a little.
The PCB can now be tested. Before
you connect the 3V supply, carefully
siliconchip.com.au
programmed. A bar graph may be displayed to show progress.
8) Program the ATtiny85’s internal ‘fuses’. These memory locations configure the operating characteristics of the ATtiny85
to suit the software being run on the device. To do this, type
in the following settings into the relevant Fuse page/section of
the programming software, then click on “Write” to send the
data to the fuses:
Low: 0xEF
High: 0x5F
Extended: 0xFF (unchanged)
Lock: 0xFF (unchanged)
8) Assuming the programmer reports the programming has been
successful, remove the programming cable from the adapter
board and transfer the ATtiny85 from the programming adapter board to its socket on the audio DDS oscillator PCB.
Programming Adaptor Board
There is no programming connector for the ATtiny85 on the
oscillator PCB. I program my ATtiny85 chips using a separate
adaptor built from a scrap of prototyping board with an 8-pin IC
socket, the Atmel-standard 6-pin programming pin header and
a couple of supporting components.
The circuit diagram for my adaptor and the equivalent PCB
are shown below. For those wanting to make a little PCB for this
programming adaptor, if you don’t want to make it on veroboard, you can order this board when you order your main PCB
(and possibly case), for just a couple of dollars more.
The resistor and LED are optional. They show when power
is applied to the Programming Adaptor Board from the USBasp
programmer.
The ATtiny85 to be programmed is plugged into the 8-pin IC
socket; make sure it is orientated correctly, with its pin 1 dot
near the notch. The USBasp programmer plugs into CON4, with
its pin 1 towards the IC socket. Power for the programming
adapter board comes from the USBasp.
If your USBasp or similar programmer has a selection of programming voltages available, it’s best to
select ‘5V’ for reliable programming of the
ATtiny85.
Fit the components as shown here;
the two wire links can be made from
component lead off-cuts. Pins 1 of both
the IC and CON4 are at upper left.
check all of your soldering for shorts
or missed connections. If it looks OK,
connect up a 3V supply (important:
no more than 3.3V!) and check that
the Oscillator operates as expected.
Making the enclosure
The enclosure should now be prepared and assembled with the battery
holder and power switch.
You can purchase a small Jiffy box
enclosure from the usual suppliers
if you wish. Alternately, you can get
the 3D printed custom enclosure parts
from the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP, or
Australia’s electronics magazine
make them yourself if you have a 3D
printer – see Fig.5.
There are two files required to print
the enclosure; the first is for the front
panel half of the enclosure, the second
is for the rear half with its integrated
battery holder. These are available for
download in the standard STL format.
These can be 3D printed using
standard PLA filament in any colour.
The prototype enclosure was printed
using grey filament with 50% fill and a
0.2mm layer thickness, although these
parameters are not critical. Each half
requires about 2g of filament. If you
September 2020 47
One half of the custom case
houses the PCB while the
batteries fit neatly into the
other half. The alternative
would be to build the
Audio Oscillator
into a small jiffy box
(or similar) but you
probably won’t be able
to fit it into your pocket!
do not have your own 3D printer, it is
also possible to go to a Jaycar maker
hub and do it there.
The two halves of the enclosure clip
together firmly without the need for
additional screws.
The rear section’s integrated battery
holder is dimensioned for two AAA
cells. It requires the addition of battery
contacts, wiring, and a battery joiner.
The battery contacts can be made by
cutting 4mm and 3mm diameter circles from thin tinplate. A scrap piece
of 0.2mm-thick tinplate was used for
the prototype. It is possible to recycle
a domestic tin can; Milo tin lids are
nice and flat.
These handmade battery contacts
should approximately match the divots provided inside the battery holder
at the switch end.
Solder a 10mm length of thin red
multi-stranded insulated wire to the
centre of the smaller circle and a similar length of black wire towards one
edge of the larger circle. The wire
should then be fed through the switch
end of the battery holder, and the metal circles glued in place using epoxy.
Once the glue has set, test-fit a pair
of AAA batteries. These should clip
firmly into place side-by-side, but they
will likely slide back and forth in the
holder by about 1-1.5mm. Bend the
battery joiner to take up that space.
There is a slot provided for this foldScreen1: despite being
quite tiny (at around
12mm diagonal – it’s
shown here about twice
life size), the currently selected
frequency is clear due to the bold font,
with its four digits occupying the entire
width of the screen.
48
Silicon Chip
ed joiner to be inserted into one end
of the battery compartment.
To make this, cut a
60mm x 8mm strip of tinplate. Trim and bend it approximately into a flattened C shape
to fit the available space. When
folded correctly, the batteries
will fit snuggly into the battery
holder. Along with the PLA plastic
of the case, the arrangement will also
provide a little tension to maintain
good battery contact.
A useful accessory during this process is a voltmeter clipped to the black
and red wire. This allows all of the
connections to be checked for reliability during final assembly.
Completing construction
The wiring to the slide power switch
can now be completed. Begin by connecting the short red and black wires
from the PCB to the switch. They
should be about 50mm long. Make sure
the power switch is off and the batteries are removed from the holder before
soldering the power wiring in place.
The switch can now be mounted on
the rear panel using a little hot melt
glue or neutral-cure silicone sealant.
If your slide switch has mounting
tabs, trim these off first using a pair
of side-cutters.
Mount the PCB in the front half of
the enclosure, first feeding the output
wires through the hole provided. The
PCB assembly is mounted using the
nuts and washers supplied with the
rotary encoder and potentiometer. Vertical-mount potentiometers may not
have nuts; in this case, it will just be
the rotary encoder boss and nut holding in the board.
The small alligator clips may now
be fitted to the output wires. Alternately, if you are using a Jiffy box,
you may prefer to use a small output
connector mounted on one end of the
box. Options include a panel mounted
RCA socket (eg, Jaycar Cat PS0270 or
Altronics Cat P0161 etc), or a 3.5mm
audio socket (eg, Altronics Cat P0093
or Jaycar Cat PS0122 etc).
Print the front panel artwork (Fig.4)
and attach it to the front of the enclosure. The artwork can be printed using a colour laser or inkjet printer.
Trim the artwork to size and cover it
with self-adhesive transparent film.
This panel artwork can then be glued
Australia’s electronics magazine
to the front of the enclosure. Doublesided adhesive tape can be used quite
successfully.
If using glue, it is desirable to cover
the rear of the artwork first with another piece of self-adhesive film to
prevent the glue bleeding through the
printed artwork.
The two knobs can now be fitted
to the control shafts. The prototype
used two knobs specifically designed
for the unit which were 3D-printed
(see Fig.5). These STL files are also
available for downloading, or if you
purchase the 3D printed case, it will
come with the knobs. These slide firmly onto the respective control shafts.
Alternately, see the parts list for commercially-made alternatives.
The final step is to install the battery. Then clip the case together, and
the oscillator is ready for use.
Operation
It couldn’t be easier. Switch it on,
select the frequency you want with
the tuning knob, set the desired output
level with the level control, and you
are in business. Press the tuning knob
to step through the various frequency
step options: 1Hz, 10Hz, 100Hz, 1kHz
and then back to 1Hz again.
Despite its simplicity, this compact
little audio oscillator is surprisingly
useful. I hope one of these finds a home
in your shirt pocket too.
SC
OBTAINING THE PARTS
Because of the difficulty in sourcing
the pulse-type rotary encoders used in
this project with any certainty, the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP will be stocking
and selling them (Cat SC5601).
We will check each batch to make
sure they are the right type! This part
can also be used in some of our previous projects, such as the AM/FM/CW
Scanning HF/VHF RF Signal Generator
and the DIY Solder Reflow Oven.
We have also decided to offer an (almost) complete kit for this project, Cat
SC5622. It will include the programmed
micro, PCB, all onboard parts, and
3D-printed case. The case has been
tweaked to accommodate pre-made
AAA battery clips, which will also come
in the kit. We’ll be supplying standard
knobs with the case (not 3D printed).
The only parts not included are the
wires and battery.
See our Online Shop on pages 104 &
105 for more details.
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Low-power flashing LED thermometer
This circuit shows how a simple
green LED can be used both as a temperature sensor and also to read out the
temperature! As with a standard silicon diode, the LED’s forward voltage
has a temperature coefficient of about
-3mV/°C (usually within the range of
-1.5mV/°C to -3mV/°C), as per Vektrex
application note AN051608A.
This means that with a 10-bit
analog-to-digital converter (ADC) and
a reference voltage of around 3.072V,
we can measure the ambient temperature with a resolution of about 1°C.
I wanted to use a tiny 6-pin PIC10
microcontroller which only has an
8-bit ADC. I found that by averaging
multiple readings (specifically, 16), I
was able to approximate the precision
of a 10-bit ADC to get the desired 1°C
resolution.
As the PIC10F222 doesn’t have a
reference voltage pin, I am instead
running it with a supply voltage of
3.072V, and this also forms the ADC
reference voltage.
Before making temperature meas-
siliconchip.com.au
urements, LED1’s diode junction is
forward-biased by bringing the GP1
output (pin 3) of IC1 high, to +3.072V.
The 10kW resistor value limits the current to a low level, preventing LED1
from lighting and also minimising
self-heating. It then makes the 16 ADC
readings, averages them and computes
the temperature.
Digital output GP0 (pin 1) is then
pulsed high, flashing LED1 to indicate
the temperature.
First, the temperature (in °C) is divided by ten and the remainder computed. This many short (25ms) pulses
are emitted at one-second intervals.
Then, the result of dividing the temperature value by ten is flashed out
in longer (256ms) pulses, also at 1Hz.
So by counting the number of short
and long pulses, you can tell the temperature.
In the example shown here, with
four short and two longer pulses, the
temperature reading is 24°C.
The circuit then sleeps for four seconds, and the whole process repeats as
Australia’s electronics magazine
long as the circuit has power.
When power is first applied, LED1
lights for ten seconds. Measure the ambient temperature with another thermometer, then press calibration button S2 once for each 1°C above freezing (eg, if it’s 20°C, press it 20 times).
LED1 blinks off briefly each time S2 is
pressed. The value is stored in RAM
as the micro lacks EEPROM, but the
battery lasts a long time, so you don’t
have to recalibrate it frequency
So that the battery lasts a long time,
the 3.072V supply for IC1 comes from
low quiescent current, low dropout
regulator REG1. This is also a Microchip product. It’s an adjustable regulator so we can set its output pretty
close to 3.072V via the string of three
resistors between Vout, ADJ and GND.
It is fitted with the required input
bypass and output filter capacitors,
plus a 10nF capacitor to improve ripple
rejection, bypassing pin 4 (ADJ). The
regulator can be powered from a Liion cell or similar, via slide switch S1.
In case you can’t easily get the
TC1187, you can build a more-orless equivalent low-dropout regulator
September 2020 49
circuit from discrete parts, as shown
below the main circuit. All you need is
one standard NPN transistor, one PNP
transistor, a common TLV431 voltage
reference and a handful of passives.
Adjust VR1 to get the output as close
to 3.072V as possible.
Transistors Q1 and Q2 are arranged
in a complementary or Sziklai pair, acting similarly to an NPN transistor but
with more current gain (beta).
The TLV431 (VREF1) sinks more
current via its cathode as the voltage at
its REF pin exceeds 1.2V, so when the
output voltage rises, it diverts current
from the 120µA flowing to the base of
the transistor pair via the 12kW resistor
from the input supply. This switches
Q1 and Q2 off, lowering the output
voltage. Similarly, if the output voltage drops, VREF1 switches Q1 and Q2
on harder, bringing the output voltage
back up.
It is this negative feedback action
which regulates the output voltage to
the desired value, and under steady-
state conditions, the whole circuit only
draws 157µA (120µA + 37µA) more
than the load current. The 1µF capacitor across VREF1 helps to stabilise the
circuit, preventing high-frequency oscillation and overshoot, as does the
1µF output filter capacitor.
The PIC10 firmware was written
in assembly language. The source
code (OneLED.asm) is available from
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/5627
Benabadji Mohammed Salim,
Oran, Algeria. ($80)
Adjustable power supply using a fixed voltage switchmode regulator
This power supply circuit efficiently
provides one of eight possible voltages
over the range of 3.3-18V, one of which
can be customised. It does this using a
single regulator intended to be used in
a fixed-voltage application; specifically, delivering 3.3V. The power source
is a common laptop charger ‘brick’.
It works by inserting a series resistance between the output terminal and
the feedback pin (pin 1) of step-down
(‘buck’) switchmode regulator chip
REG1. This adds to REG1’s internal
resistance at the top of its internal
feedback divider, thus influencing its
target output voltage.
With rotary or slide switch S1 in
the 3.3V position, the output voltage
is fed back directly to pin 1 of REG1,
and it operates as intended. In one of
the higher voltage positions, different
value resistors are inserted in series.
REG1 has an internal 1.7kW/1.0kW
50
Silicon Chip
divider between pins 1 & 4 (power
ground), resulting in a nominal 1.23V
going to its internal error amplifier for
a 3.3V output voltage. The resistors
added via switch S1 increase the division ratio, so a higher output voltage
is required to produce the same internal 1.23V feedback. Hence, rotating S1
increases the output voltage in steps.
There are seven standard fixed voltage selections available. In the eighth
position, potentiometer VR1 is connected in series with the feedback pin,
so you can adjust VR1 to get any output between 3.3V and 16V.
Inductor L3 and the following 100nF
and 220µF capacitors form the buck
regulator LC filter, while schottky diode D2 is the freewheeling diode that
prevents switch pin 7 of REG1 (OUT)
from going too far negative during its
internal switch off-time. The buck
regulator output is fed to one pin on
Australia’s electronics magazine
the three-way terminal block, with a
pi filter providing a secondary, lowernoise (but worse regulated) output rail.
LED2 lights up to indicate that the
circuit has power while LED3 lights
up to show when there is a voltage at
the output, and will get brighter as the
output voltage increases. As red LED1
is wired up in reverse across LED2, it
will only light up if the input supply
polarity is wrong. In this case, fuse F1
will blow due to high current conduction via protection diode D1.
Several capacitors plus a common
mode choke between the DC input and
regulator REG1 prevent switchmode
noise from being radiated back along
the supply wiring, and the 100µF,
100nF and 1nF capacitors at pin 5 of
REG1 (Vin) also act as its supply bypass capacitors.
Petre Petrov,
Sofia, Bulgaria. ($70)
siliconchip.com.au
Giant 1024-pixel RGB LED clock
An 8x8 RGB LED ‘Neopixel’ display
module was described back in the
January 2020 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/12228), and one was used
in the Ol’ Timer II clock (July 2020;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/14493).
But did you know that 16x16 LED
versions are also available? When I saw
that they only cost about $20 each, I decided that I had to build a giant 32x32
(1024-pixel) LED clock using four of
those modules and a few other bits and
pieces. As each 16x16 module measures 160x160mm, the finished clock
is 320x320mm and it looks fantastic
hanging on the wall.
The total cost for the project was just
over $100. The only disadvantage of
using LED arrays to create a wall clock
is the power consumption. I decided to
limit the maximum brightness to 40%
(not just to save power but also my
eyes!), but that still means you need
a 4A 5V supply to drive it. That’s despite only about one in five LEDs being lit at any given time.
My design includes a GPS module
for accurate timekeeping, but since
it is based on an ESP8266 microcontroller module with WiFi, you could
leave off the GPS module and use internet (NTP) time instead. The software would need a few changes to accomplish this. See my previous submission, the NTP OLED clock from
February 2018 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10975).
Having received the 16x16 LED
matrices I ordered, I discovered that
they are effectively four 8x8 matrices glued and wired together. Hence,
they are shown on the circuit that
way. Note that the physical layout
of the modules shown on the circuit
doesn’t match the actual layout of the
displays, since each 16x16 module is
square but is shown running across
the page for clarity.
As you can see from the diagram
overleaf, besides the GPS modules,
D1 Mini micro board and the LED displays, there isn’t much else involved.
An optional 128x64 mono OLED
screen shows the received GPS data;
the clock will work fine without it. The
5V supply that runs the LEDs is regulated down to 3.3V for the D1 Mini, GPS
receiver and OLED by an AMS1117
low-dropout linear regulator.
As described in the January 2020
article, the WS2812B RGB ‘pixels’ are
siliconchip.com.au
updated using a special type of serial
data stream, and this snakes its way
through all 1024 devices in the display from the D4 digital output of the
ESP8266 module.
If using the GPS receiver, it will
need to be near a window to find the
signal from the GPS satellites. The
GM-22U7 is extremely fast to acquire
the satellite signals, so apart from the
first power-on when it has to get the
almanac data, the time and date appears within a few seconds.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The clock display colour changes
every minute. The colour scheme is
defined in an array in the file colors.h,
which is in the same directory as the
main sketch file (the code itself). The
main sketch (neopixel-gps-clock6), a
sketch to test whether the 1024-pixel
array has been wired up correctly
(led-matrix-test) plus the required
third-party libraries are available from
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/5628
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($150)
September 2020 51
1024-pixel RGB LED clock circuit diagram
52
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
young maker
electronics by
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1800 022 888
STARTER KIT
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BUILD A MICRO:BIT
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An excellent introduction to electronic construction
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• No soldering or prior programming
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XC4322 WAS $99.95
YOU WILL ALSO NEED:
2 x AA Batteries SB2424 $1.95
Get started with the Micro:bit starter
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Using the Micro:bits internal
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SEE PARTS & STEP-BY-STEP
INSTRUCTIONS AT:
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INCLUDES 18
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SENSOR SHIELD
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T-ADAPTER SHIELD
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Enables you to connect multiple sensor
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• 2.54mm pin pitch
XC4336 WAS $14.95
Use this breakout board to access
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Build your own
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• Connects to your TV, computer or
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XC9062 $169
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• Includes a joystick and 6 buttons.
• Built-in speaker
XC9064 $249
WITH PURCHASE OF XC9001
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54
click & collect
Supplied with 400-hole breadboard, designed
to break out all IO pins on your micro:bit for
you to create additional circuits and hardware.
XC4332 WAS $23.95
JUST
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(VALUED AT $24.95)
SAVE 15%
PROTOTYPE BOARD WITH
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SNES layout. Features A/B/X/Y buttons,
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Let the games begin with these exciting retro arcade
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Build your own Arcade Joystick
PT4631
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Driven by an Arduino® Leonardo
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XC3752
SAVE $20
Large, colourful touch display shield which
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• MicroSD card slot
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XC4630
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HOW TO PROGRAM
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79
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USB INTERFACE
FOR JOYSTICK
AND BUTTONS
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$
ILLUMINATED ARCADE
BUTTON SWITCHES
EA
Suitable for arcade
games, flight simulators
or anything that works
with a USB joystick.
XC9046
Brightly coloured pushbutton switches ideal
for creating a custom arcade machine. Suits
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blue & white colours available.
• Microswitch for reliable operation
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SP0662-SP0669
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EA
ARCADE JOYSTICK
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Ideal for arcade games and
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NOW
restrictor plate.
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SAVE
SM1052 WAS $24.95
1995
$
SEALED POLYCARBONATE
ENCLOSURES
5-WAY
CRIMPING TOOL
FROM
JUST
Moulded in light grey. IP65 rated.
• Lid fixing screws are M4 stainless steel
(non-magnetic) into threaded brass inserts
Small
82 x 80 x 55mm
HB6230 $14.95
Medium
115 x 90 x 55mm HB6216 $17.95
Large
171 x 121 x 80mm HB6224 $26.95
Extra Large 222 x 146 x 55mm HB6220 $34.95
14
$
95
HB6230
JUST
$5
Cuts and strips wire. Can
also cut bolts with diameter
M2.6, M3.0,
M3.5, M4.0
& M5.0.
TH1828
995
$
55
INTRODUCE YOUR LOVE
OF ELECTRONICS TO YOUR KIDS
MAKEY MAKEY
LEARNING KIT
Have fun using everyday
objects to create innovative
projects e.g make a piano
using bananas. Ages 8+.
• Supplied with six coloured
leads with alligator clips, USB
cable and jumper wires to
provide even more output.
XC3750 WAS $49.95
NOW
698-IN-1 SNAP
ON ELECTRONIC
PROJECT KIT
Build up to 698 different
experiments. Easy snap together no tools required. Ages 8+.
KJ8985
39
$
95
SAVE $10
Uses conductive and insulating play dough to teach the
basics of electrical
circuits. Comes with
more items and plenty
of pre-made doughs
so you can start circuit
building right away!
Ages 8+. KJ9352
JUST
89
129
$
$
ENHANCE THEIR
CREATIVITY
SPARKLE STITCH KIT
Learn simple sewing and
electronics and make spectacular
light-up wearable technology.
Kit includes everything you
need to get started - felt cloth,
needles, thimble, thread, glue
gun, multimeter, electronic
components, 62 page guide &
more. KM1080
See website for details
For kids captivated by colours
and craft, nurture their
creativity with these kits and
readily available supplies in
your household.
JUST
79
$
VALUED AT OVER $125
PLANETARIUM EDUCATIONAL KIT
POTATO CLOCK
Build your own planetarium model. Snap to
build, no glue required. Age 8+.
KJ8994
Educational project kit for
constructing a clock powered from a
potato. Ages 10+. KJ8937
free
Download your :
BOOK
COLOURING
k
/colouring-boo
au
www.jaycar.com.
6-IN-1 SOLAR ROBOT
Build robots out of a can, water
bottle or wasted CDs! 6 robots to
build. Ages 10+. KJ8939
JUST
1295
9
$
95
Learn about solar
power and hydraulics.
12 easy to build
models including
crocodile, T-Rex,
elephant, monkey,
ostrich, scorpion, and
excavator. Ages 8+.
KJ9030
SALT WATER FUEL CELL
ENGINE CAR KIT
Demonstrate the concept of a
salt powered automotive engine.
Assemble, add salt
water, and off the car
goes! 120mm long.
Ages 8+. KJ8960
JUST
39
$
click & collect
95
JUST
26
$
95
SOLAR EDUCATIONAL KIT
Experiment with solar energy the energy source of the future.
See website for inclusion.
Ages 8+. KJ6690
JUST
18
$
Buy online & collect in store
95
JUST
1995
$
SEE STEP-BY-STEP
INSTRUCTIONS AT:
www.jaycar.com.au/
make-a-potato-clock
12-IN-1 SOLAR
HYDRAULIC
ROBOT KIT
56
6995
SQUISHY CIRCUITS DELUXE KIT
Kids can draw the circuits
with the conductive
pen and then watch
them come to life. Each
kit includes a detailed
sketchbook with
JUST
examples and
templates to
work through.
Ages 8+. KJ9310
$
JUST
$
DRAW CIRCUITS
17-PCE MAKER KIT
JUST
Electronics is a fun, educational and satisfying
hobby. But SOLDERING stops many people
from entering this world. Today we have
a range of electronic construction kits that
require no soldering and can be as simple as
joining two bits of playdough together!
6-IN-1 SOLAR
EDUCATIONAL KIT
Build any one of six different projects:
windmill, car, dog, plane, airboat,
revolving plane. Power from the sun or
household 50W halogen light. Ages
10+. KJ8926
JUST
1695
$
ON SALE 24.08.2020 - 23.09.2020
TEACH THEM ABOUT
!
H
C
T
A
R
SC
MBOT BLUETOOTH® ROBOT KIT
Easy to aeemble, entry level robot that can avoid
obstacles, follow lines, play soccer, and more.
Control from your Smartphone or Tablet via app
or program using simple drag-and-drop
programming blocks or Arduino®
IDE. Ages 12+. KR9200
JUST
199
$
Kids can learn coding and AI while
they play. Comes in two parts: Codey
(detachable mainboard) equipped with
more than 10 electronics modules that
can be controlled via code. Rocky (car) that
lets you take Codey anywhere you want. Support
AI and IoT. Cloud storage. Ages 6+. KR9230
Limited stock. Store only.
MINI ELECTRIC MOTOR
EXPERIMENT KIT
Demonstrates the basics of how the
magnets, armature and commutator
work together. Ages 8+.
KJ9032
JUST
19
$
95
More ways to pay:
JUST
99
$
3MP USB PORTABLE
DIGITAL MICROSCOPE
400+ pieces of blocks
that kids can build
more than 18 cool
multifunctional models.
Allows kids to do coding
with their creations by
graphical programming
language. Compatible
with major building block
brands. Ages 8+. KJ9354
CHECK OUT THE
VIDEO ONLINE!
119
SAVE $10
219
$
Use the 6 terrestrial tracks/
crawlers to create a working
gripper, rover or forklift.
Electric motors and detailed
instructions included.
Requires 4 x AA batteries.
Ages 13+. KJ8918
ALSO AVAILABLE:
4 x AA Batteries SB2425 $3.25
WAS $99.95
6995
$
JUST
5995
$
SPACE RAIL
CONSTRUCTION KIT
SAVE $30
GLOW IN THE DARK
Build your own marble rollercoaster
with unlimited track possibilities.
488pce. Multi-fit baseboard. Requires
1 x C battery. Ages 15+. KJ9001
ALSO AVAILABLE:
C Size Battery Pk2 SB2416 $4.50
JUST
4995
$
CHECK OUT THE
VIDEO ONLINE!
CARDBOARD RADIO
CONSTRUCTION KIT
12-IN-1 ELECTRICAL
EXPERIMENT KIT
JUST
JUST
Make your own AM/
FM radio. No soldering
needed. Requires 3 x
AA batteries. Ages 8+.
KJ9021
24
$
WAS $129
$
Perfect introduction to robotics
and programming. Support STEM
learning and can be used at home or
school. Clear scratch resistant shell.
Completely waterproof!
JUST
• Gyroscope
• Accelerometer
KJ9200
ALL TERRAIN MULTIFUNCTION
TRACKED ROBOT KIT
Excellent for educational
purposes and a myriad of
practical applications. Up to
600X magnification.
• 640 x 480 Resolution
QC3191
They'll be challenged and
required to spend hours or
the weekend creating their
'engineering masterpiece'.
Each contains full instructions
so no previous experience
or tools are required except
maybe a screwdriver and a
pair of pliers.
APITOR SUPERBOT
ROBOT KIT
SPHERO SPRK+
PROGRAMMABLE ROBOT
IN A BALL
CODEY ROCKY ROBOT KIT
TAKE THEIR
CONSTRUCTION
SKILLS TO THE
NEXT LEVEL
Scratch and similar block-based
programming applications represent
the perfect entry point for learning
to code. It’s free, easy to use, and it
lets people of all ages quickly design
and program their own interactive
animations, stories, games, and
even program robots built on core
computer components such as Arduino®
or Raspberry Pi. All this without
writing a single line of code.
95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
4 x AA Batteries SB2425 $3.25
12 different experiments to
construct that demonstrate
various electronic principles.
Requires 2 x AA batteries.
Ages 8+. KJ8919
2995
$
ALSO AVAILABLE:
2 x AA Batteries SB2424 $1.95
AIR POWER ENGINE CAR KIT
Operates entirely using air and
travels up to 80m on one single
tank. No batteries or motor
required. Ages 10+.
KJ8967
JUST
3995
$
57
THE BEST REWARDS & PERKS!
SHOP
In store & online
EARN
POINTS
For dollars spent
1 point = $1
GET
REWARDS
eCoupons for future shops in store
+offers,
PERKS
event invitations,
200 points = $10 eCoupon
account profile and more...
exclusive CLUB offers:
6-PCE INSULATED
SCREWDRIVER SET
Ergonomic handles with
excellent non-slip grips.
Fully insulated shafts rated
for 1000V. TÜV and GS
approved.
TD2026 REG $24.95
1850
CLUB OFFER
$
25W
SOLDERING IRON
STARTER KIT
Includes all soldering
essentials for various
projects. TS1652
REG $44.95
SAVE 25%
3295
CLUB OFFER
$
SAVE 25%
30-PCE TOOL KIT
Includes most common
tool for minor DIY
repairs and held
securely in a zip-up
case. TD2166
REG $29.95
See website for contents.
2195
$
CLUB OFFER
SAVE 25%
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
GREENCAP CAPACITOR PACK
MOISTURE LEVEL METER
75 OHM RG59 COAX CABLE
GAFFER TAPE IN HI-VIZ
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
20M CCD CAMERA
EXTENSION CABLE
12V 1A SLA BATTERY CHARGER
TELEPHONE EXTENSION
RINGER
12V SOLID LED STRIP LIGHT
3 joined cables: BNC, RCA and DC power
cables. WQ7278 RRP $64.95 CLUB $54.95
Interchangeable DC plug and alligator
clip. 2m cable.
MB3619 RRP $21.95 CLUB $17.95
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
120MM LONG-LIFE LOW-NOISE
MAGLEV BEARING CASE FAN
30%
25%
Values range from 0.001μF - 0.22μF, all
100V. 60 pieces.
RG5199 RRP $14.95 CLUB $9.95
Measure water content in wood
and building materials
QP2310 RRP $39.95 CLUB $29.95
15%
15%
20%
IP54 dust, waterproof. 12VDC.
YX2584 RRP $36.95 CLUB $28.95
30%
White or black colour available. 30m roll.
WB2001 OR WB2005
RRP $22.95ea. CLUB $14.95ea.
25%
20%
11mm strips fitted with 5050 tri-chip SMD
LEDs. 500mA.
ZD0552 RRP $24.95 CLUB $19.95
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
CLUB
OFFER
SAVE
VGA TO HDMI CONVERTER
& UPSCALER
UNIVERSAL DRILL PRESS STAND 240V TO 24VAC 150VA
Up to 60mm drilling depth.
LIGHTING TRANSFORMER
20%
HDMI Upscaling up to 1080p.
AC1718 RRP $89.95 CLUB $69.95
20%
15%
497(H) x 350(W) x 160(D)mm.
TD2463 RRP $49.95 CLUB $37.95
20% OFF
SEALED ABS ENCLOSURES*
*See T&Cs for details.
click & collect
Fluoro green or hot pink available. 10m.
Waterproof. NM2813 OR NM2815
RRP $14.95ea. CLUB $12.95ea.
Wall mountable. Multiple tone and pitch.
YT6068 RRP $34.95 CLUB $24.95
EXCLUSIVE CLUB OFFER
58
10%
Buy online & collect in store
Output 6.25A via screw terminals.
MP3045 RRP $64.95 CLUB $54.95
YOUR CLUB, YOUR PERKS
KEEP UP TO DATE WITH THE LATEST OFFERS & WHAT'S ON!
Visit www.jaycar.com.au/makerhub
ON SALE 24.08.2020 - 23.09.2020
!
H
C
N
E
WORKB
rers!
e
k
in
t
g
n
u
o
y
e
h
t
r
o
f
Essentials
1. DESKTOP PCB HOLDER
• Hold PCBs of up to 200 x 140mm
• Adjustable angle
• 300(L) x 165(W) x 125(H)mm
TH1980 WAS $19.95
2. 10W 240VAC SOLDERING
STATION
• Compact and lightweight
• 100-450°C temperature range
• Rotary temperature control dial
• Integrated soldering pencil holder
TS1610 WAS $34.95
3. SILICONE BENCHTOP
WORK MAT
• Heat resistant
• Suitable for soldering applications
• Magnetic areas to hold metal parts.
• 398(W) x 269(D) x 10(H)mm.
HM8102
NOW
2995
$
4. LOW COST DIGITAL
MULTIMETER
• 500V, 2000 count
• AC voltages up to 750V
• DC voltages up to 1000V
• DC current up to 10A
• Includes test leads
QM1500
5
JUST
4
5. 7-PCE INSULATED
SCREWDRIVER SET
• Quality set for electrical work.
• Slotted sizes 2.5mm, 4mm,5.5mm
& 6.5mm
• Phillips sizes #0, #1, and #2
• 1kV insulation rating
TD2022 WAS $34.95
6
6. MINI GLUE GUN
• Fast, easy and simple to use
• 30W Mains powered
• Supplied with 2 x 7mm dia.
glue sticks.
TH1997 WAS $12.95
NOW
3
995
$
SAVE $3
14
$
95
95
• 99.3% Tin / 0.7% copper lead free.
• 1.00 & 0.71mm (dia.)
available.
• Rosin cored. 200g rolls.
0.71mm NS3088
1.00mm NS3094
JUST
2595
$
EA
More ways to pay:
INSULATION TAPE
- 6 ROLLS
MAGNET BARS
JUST
JUST
• Designed to remove dangerous solder
fumes from the work area
• Suitable for workbenches
or the hobbyist
TS1580 WAS $74.95
SOLDERING IRON STANDS
General purpose stand. Large, tip
cleaning sponge & pressed
metal base.
Economy TS1502 $9.95
Deluxe
TS1507 $16.95
995
$
EA
for kids
25W 240V SOLDERING IRON
SAVE $15
FROM
$ 95
SOLDERING
NOW
5995
• Educational magnets
• Ideal for hobbyists & children to learn
more about magnetism.
U Shaped 30 x 30 x 6mm TH1873
Bar Magnet 70 x 12 x 5mm TH1874
1
$
240V SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR
LEAD-FREE SOLDER
1
395
ONLY
1995
$
NOW
One roll each of green, black,
yellow, white, blue and red.
Each 5m in length x 19mm
wide. NM2806
$
19
$
ONLY
995
$
electronics. Complete with
comprehensive assembly instructions
and detailed descriptions of how each
component works.
Volume 1 BJ8502 WAS $10.95
NOW $9.50 SAVE $1.45
Volume 2 BJ8504 WAS $12.95
NOW $11.50 SAVE $1.45
Volume 3 BJ8505 WAS $14.95
NOW $13.00 SAVE $1.95
Set of 3. Measures angled &
duckbill 120mm, superfine
135mm. ESD safe.
TH1760
SAVE $5
SAVE $5
SHORT
CIRCUITS
A great way to teach kids about
STAINLESS STEEL
TWEEZER SET
2995
$
2
SAVE $5
10%
OFF
NOW
TS
0
15
2
Ideal for the hobbyist and handy person.
Stainless steel barrel and orange cool
grip impact resistant handle. Fully
electrically safety approved. TS1465
ONLY
1495
$
59
W
E
N
S
’
T
WHA
2 x Thunderbolt™ Pins
4K HDMI
Port
Rear
2000W 240V ADJUSTABLE
TEMPERATURE HEAT GUN
Remove paint, shrink heatshrink, soften
adhesives and many other applications.
Mains powered with 2 heat settings. Includes
4 nozzle attachments.
• Low Power: 400°C, 250L/min
• High Power: 600°C,
500L/min
TH1609
COVID FEVER
NON-CONTACT
THERMOMETER
Due early September
Measure from -50°C up to
600°C. Includes a 12 point laser
to indicate the measured area.
• 12:1 Distance to
Spot Ratio
• Adjustable emissivity
• Large colour LCD display
• Powered from 2 x AAA
Batteries (included)
QM7424
JUST
ONLY
2995
USB Type-C
2 x USB3.0
Ports
USB Type-C with
Power Delivery
9995
JUST
$
9995
$
$
USB POWERED BATTERY CHARGERS
SINGLE CHANNEL
QUAD CHANNEL
DUAL CHANNEL
Charges Li-ion battery cell
from a USB power source.
• Supported batteries
include: 26650, 26500,
22650, 18650, 18490,
17670, 17335, 16340
(RCR123A), 14500,
JUST
& 10440.
MB3705
Charges up to 2 x Li-ion,
Ni-MH or Ni-Cd battery
cells at the same.
• Supported batteries
include: AAAA,
AAA, AA, A, Sub-C,
C, 26650, 22650,
21700, 18650,
14500 & more.
MB3707
1495
$
A compact Arduino® compatible board with an integrated
W600 Wi-Fi module. Ideal for compact and low power
projects. USB C port for power (5VDC) and provision to
run from and charge a 3.5-4.2V Li-po battery.
• 2.4GHz Wi-Fi
• 6 Analogue and
14 Digital Pins
• UART, I2C, and ICSP
Port
ONLY
XC3812
69
$
95
JUST
1995
$
DUINOTECH SAMD21
WIRELESS DEVELOPMENT BOARD
SD & MicroSD
Card Readers
Front
Uni-directional, suitable
for podcasting and
audio recordings. Solid
construction with an adjustable
desk tripod for optimum
positioning. Mac® and
Windows compatible.
24-Bit resolution.
5VDC USB powered.
AM4136
JUST
7995
$
4995
$
1800 LUMEN 3"
20W LED WORK
LIGHT
21.5"
6500 LUMEN 21.5"
SINGLE ROW SOLID LED LIGHT BAR
JUST
49
$
number of ports on your MacBook™.
Includes a HDMI port that can mirror or
extend your display. Suitable for later
version of MacBooks. Plug and play.
See website for details. XC4938
USB STREAMING
MICROPHONE
Charges up to 4 x Ni-MH,
Ni-Cd, Li-ion, or LiFePO4
battery cells using Pulse Width
Modulation (PWM) at the
same time.
• Supported batteries include:
AAA, AA, Sub-C, C, 26650,
22650, 21700, 18650, 14500
& more.
MB3703
JUST
Waterproof, dustproof
and shockproof to
suit 4WD and marine
applications. Wide input
voltage to suit 12 and 24 volt
systems.
• 5 x 5W OSRAM LEDs
• 5500 - 6500K Colour Temperature
• IP68 Ingress Protection
• 87(W) x 102(H) x 73(D)mm
ST3252
MACBOOK™
PORTABLE DOCK
This Thunderbolt™ 3 Dock expands the
95
PR
Features 16 x 5W OSRAM LEDs, IP68 water and dustproof
rating, and suits 12V and 24V systems. Supplied with a steel
bracket and mounting hardware. For off-road use only.
• 6000K colour temperature
JUST
• 70W LED output power
• 547(L) x 54(H) x 74(D)mm
• 1.3kg Weight
SL4020
ALSO AVAILABLE: Wiring Harness To Suit SL4022 $49.95
9995
$
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for Rewards / membership T&Cs. IN-STORE ONLY refers to
company owned stores and not available to Resellers. Page 1 BUNDLE DEALS: Micro:bit Tobbie 2 Bundle includes 1 x KR9260 + 1 x XC4320 + 1 x SB2413 for $87.95. Micro:bit Robot Kit Bundle includes 1 x KR9262 + 1 x XC4320 + 1 x SB2298 for $134.
Page 2: BONUS GIFT: Free RetroPie OS (XC9031) with purchase of 1 x XC9001 + 1 x XC9062 or 1 x XC9001 + 1 x XC9064. Page 6: Club Offer: 20% OFF Sealed ABS Enclosures applies to Jaycar 230F: ABS Boxes – Sealed product category.
LONE PI
AUTO
BARN
SPOTLIGHT
N
WY
LL H
CHE
MIT
NE AVE
HARVEY
NORMAN
BCF
P
HEA
ERC
SUP AUTO
NEW STORE
Orange
Orange Homemaker Centre
4/168 Lone Pine Ave
Orange, NSW 2800
PH: 1800 022 888
For your nearest store
& opening hours:
1800 022 888
www.jaycar.com.au
Over 100 stores &
130 resellers nationwide
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road,
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100
Fax: (02) 8832 3169
ONLINE ORDERS
www.jaycar.com.au
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring
your local store to check stock details. Occasionally there are discontinued items advertised on a special / lower price
in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Resellers. These
stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and
special offers are valid from catalogue sale 24.08.2020 - 23.09.2020
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Troubleshooting Temperamental Tea
Dave Thompson
It’s hard to do much work before you’ve had your morning tea (or coffee),
especially when brainpower is required. But when it’s your kettle that’s
acting up, you don’t have much choice! Despite shelling out much moola
for what I thought was a carefully crafted coffee kettle – a jolly good jug
– it utterly failed to boil any water. So I had to take my sleeping cap off
and put my thinking cap on...
If you want to insult an engineer,
you refer to them as a “wheelbarrow
mechanic”. This implies that the most
advanced device they are capable of
working on is a bucket with handlebars and a wheel attached.
There was a similar term in the electronics world, “valve jockey”, but that
has been obsolete for many years now.
It referred to people whose sole troubleshooting capability was to swap out
the valves in a radio or TV set, in the
hope that one of them was bad and replacing it would fix the set.
Given how out-of-date that term is,
it’s tempting to come up with a new
insult for electronic engineers. One
possibility is to call them a “kettle
technician”. After all, you can’t make a
much simpler device than your standard kettle or jug; it’s basically just a big
resistor connected to the mains with
a combined on/off switch and a thermal cut-out.
Your bog-standard toaster is just
slightly more complicated, replacing the thermal cut-out with a simple timer.
But if you haven’t been into a department store recently (do they even
still exist?), you might be surprised
how sophisticated modern jugs and
toasters have become. Some toasters
are motorised now! Talk about gilding the lily…
And jugs aren’t that far behind.
Some models, very popular these days
in Asian countries, don’t just boil water but also will cook food like eggs
and noodles. In some cases, they have
a dozen modes or more.
So I guess that takes some of the
sting out of the “kettle technician”
insult!
As I’ve mentioned on several occasions in the past, part of being a serviceman (or servicewoman) is that we
are genetically predisposed to have a
go at whatever needs fixing. If that happens to be a kettle (or a wheelbarrow),
we will usually rise to the challenge
without prejudice. No broken object is
so simple that fixing it is beneath us!
A fool for tools
And simple though most kettles are,
some require odd tooling to get them
apart. It could be those awful ‘safety
fasteners’ modern manufacturers seem
to love using, or some other odd-ball
instrument required to pop plastic
clips or unseat gaskets. So if we want
to service even basic appliances like
this, we have to accumulate all the
necessary tools.
This isn’t usually a problem; like
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Troubleshooting in the cold
Dremel rotary tool repair
PA system repair
Hyundai coil diagnostics
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 61
many servicemen, I’m ‘into’ tools and
test gear. I’m perhaps a bit too enthusiastic about tools; the subject of several
of my missives! So I will usually jump
at the chance to add something new to
the toolbox if the opportunity arises.
Whether I will use any of these more
esoteric tools more than once is immaterial; the point is that I have them in
my toolbox, and am therefore able to
cope with any future repair situations
that may arise.
However, it is clear to anyone that
going out and buying one of every
tool in the shop just in case we might
need it one day is madness, or at least
reserved for those who have far more
dollars than sense (and we probably
all know someone like this!). Having
said that, I think that many servicemen
would jump at the chance to buy, borrow or hire a new tool, especially if we
have a particular job for it.
There is a fine line between capa-
62
Silicon Chip
bility and hoarding, though, and I’ve
long come to accept that I can’t be prepared hardware-wise for every job that
comes my way.
One recent example is when I needed to crimp several large terminals to
some really heavy-gauge wiring; I had
to borrow the crimping tool I needed
from a sparky friend, but was sad to
see it go once the job was done.
I could see many possibilities and
advantages to owning such a tool,
though knowing how much use it
would actually get precluded me
from shelling out a not-inconsiderable
amount of money to buy my own set.
But sometimes, it is worth buying
the right tool for the job. A while ago,
I needed to work on a telephone line
that was buried amongst a loom of dozens of other similarly-sized and coloured wires. Sorting out which ones
were the active phone line was going
to be a mission, especially without any
Australia’s electronics magazine
kind of schematic or wiring diagram.
While I initially considered trying
to find one of those tracer type tools,
where a signal is sent down the wire
and picked up by a separate receiver,
I thought something like a hand-held
telephone test handset would be better.
You’ve probably seen them. They’re
traditionally used by Post Office techs
and linesmen types (or, in the olden
days, eavesdroppers or cheapskates
without a fear of heights!). Usually,
they are an industrial-style handset
featuring a rotary dial, a belt clip and
a curly cord with a couple of crocodile clips so anyone can just tap into
the telephone grid and get connected.
I went so far as to go out and look
for one, asking around some ex-Post
Office/Telecom guys I know and anyone else who might have been able to
loan me one.
Sadly, I couldn’t find one of these
handsets. However, I did eventually
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locate and buy an inexpensive ‘ersatz’
version, which is essentially just a
small touch-tone handset with a simple digital display and a set of assorted
leads and telephone-style connectors
(including crocodile clips). I got it for
just a few dollars.
It was ideal for the task, and made
the job so much easier than it would
have been if I didn’t have the right tool.
I thanked my lucky stars (and AliExpress!) that I could find one for such
a little outlay, which made it a perfect
tool/test equipment purchase.
While it is true I may never use it
again in anger, I at least have it in my
toolkit, and that gives me a warm,
fuzzy feeling inside.
I’m sure most of us accumulate our
tools the same way. I know that my
dad did; when he needed something
specific, he either made it or sourced
it from somewhere, and over the years,
those acquisitions mounted up.
Looking through the stuff I inherited, there is plenty of tooling I don’t
recognise and have no idea what it was
used for. As I’m not planning on taking up precision machining any time
soon, I will likely never use it. At least
I have it though, just in case!
Penny wise, pound foolish
This raises a dilemma though; if
we’re only going to use any given
tool for one or two jobs, and we can’t
borrow or hire it, do we shell out for
a really good quality version or buy
something cheap and nasty, and take
the risk it might break or get thrown
away?
For me, it usually comes down to my
budget, but as a tool snob, I consider
buying junk tools to be a false economy. However, I am also realistic, and
given that my wife also has a say in
it, I usually end up going for the best
value, rather than the most expensive
(which one would hope means ‘the
best’, but doesn’t always).
Luckily, these days there are increasingly middle-ground options such as
that telephone tester I purchased; it
isn’t junk, but it isn’t super-high quality either, yet it does its job perfectly.
This buying philosophy isn’t just
for tools. I’m sure we’ve all been there;
do we buy a cheaper appliance, even
though it might only last a season or
two before throwing it away or replacing it, or do we stump up and buy that
higher-end model which will (hopefully) last much longer? While we usually
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pay a suitably higher price for the privilege, I tend to go for the latter option.
As an example (this is going somewhere, I promise), I like my wristwatches, and over the years owned
many very cool examples. The majority of these were purchased at overseas
markets for little money, but perhaps
unsurprisingly, none lasted very long.
I am reasonably tough on watches,
because I only take them off when
safety determines I do so. Otherwise,
I wear one 24/7. Usually, the cheap
bracelets would give out, but occasionally I would crack a screen or
body by whacking the watch into an
engine component while fixing a car
or similar.
I got sick of replacing my watches
just because they couldn’t take the dayto-day use, and eventually resolved
the issue by purchasing a ‘proper’ Tag
Heuer watch in the early 90s, which I
still wear today.
It certainly wasn’t a cheapo like
those other watches, but as I have not
needed to buy another watch for 30
years, in the greater scheme of things,
it was the most sensible option.
And so when we were renovating
our kitchen a few years back, with the
same philosophy in mind, we shelled
out a relatively tidy sum for a matching
Dualit kettle and toaster package. We
haven’t been disappointed, as these
traditional and very well-made appliances have easily stood the test of time.
Like most people, I’ve purchased
many jugs and toasters over the years,
most of which simply die or become
so grotty after a while that we ended
up replacing them. Not so with these
Dualit models; they are built to last
and are made to be repairable, with
readily-available (though relatively
expensive) spare parts.
Like many brands, some of the
cheaper models are made in the farflung corners of the East. Our appliances were “assembled” in the USA,
which today is meant to imply a level
of quality.
Increasingly, this ‘made in so-andso’ designation is fluid; I remember as
a kid when something was stamped
with “Made in Japan”, it was considered junk. These days, the opposite
is true; “Made in Japan” usually indicates the highest quality available.
Also, given that parts and subassemblies these days are made all
over the world, you have to wonder
what that ‘assembly’ actually involves.
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September 2020 63
The appliance could be made in two
halves overseas and then screwed together locally, and it would still be
“assembled in so-and-so”.
At the end of the day, you have to
evaluate quality based on the fit and
finish of the device itself, as well as
reviews by other owners. Just because
something is made in China doesn’t
mean it’s junk (a lot of high-end stuff
is made there), and similarly, there
are plenty of goods made in Australia
or the USA that leave much to be desired! But I digress.
An interruption to my
morning routine
The other morning I got up and went
to boil the jug. Usually, I check the water level and just hit the switch below
the handle to get everything started
while I go about other mundane morning tasks, such as waking up.
When I came back to the jug to pour
out some water, it was cold. I hadn’t
even noticed the lack of the sound of
boiling water (one of the selling points
of this jug is the ‘quiet boil’ feature),
but even so, I can still usually hear it.
I made sure the toggle switch was
engaged, and it was, but the jug was
dead, and even the neon ‘idiot lights’
mounted in the base of the kettle didn’t
come on when I flicked the switch.
Now fully awake, I automatically
went into troubleshooting mode. The
first thing I checked was the mains
socket the jug was connected to, ensuring that the plug was firmly in and the
power switched on. Many a serviceman (and by that, I mean me) has been
flummoxed by somebody turning off
a usually-left-on wall socket switch.
Unfortunately, this one was still on,
and as the toaster sitting next to the jug
was plugged into the same (dual) wall
socket and happily fired up when the
lever was pulled down, I knew that
power was getting to it.
This jug is a ‘cordless’ model, which
means that it gets power via a socket
in the base, which disconnects when
it is lifted up to dispense water. The
close tolerances between the base’s
plug and the corresponding socket
built into the bottom of the jug rely on
a sound physical and electrical connection for power to flow.
Any foreign object sitting on the jug
base will prevent the plug and socket
from making proper contact, and this
could be as small as a crumb of toast.
In this case, the base was clear of de64
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bris, and the jug seated properly, so
that wasn’t the problem.
For further troubleshooting, I needed a multimeter, and I was soon armed
with my trusty analog unit and ready
to measure. There was 240V AC (or
thereabouts) across the contacts in the
base, though measuring it was tricky
because the socket has pressure-actuated covers which pop into place when
the jug is removed, to prevent anything
being purposely or accidentally contacting the inside of the socket. Yet no
power was reaching the jug’s element.
At this point, I hit the internet to
search for a service manual. This may
sound a ridiculous step to take, but
given the price and quality of the jug,
I did expect to find one.
As it turned out, I couldn’t find a service manual (and thus any part numbers for spare parts), but I did find a user’s manual, which included a handy
troubleshooting chart. It didn’t need
much technical nous to follow the
manual and determine what the possible causes for non-operation were.
According to the book, a blown element or an activated or faulty thermal switch (installed in the jug circuit
to prevent dry boiling) were the most
likely culprits.
As with any troubleshooting process, the symptoms ultimately determine what the problem is. In this
case, the troubleshooting chart suggested that if the neon lamps don’t
light up and the jug doesn’t boil, the
likely culprit is the boil-dry switch. If
the neons do show, but the jug doesn’t
boil, a blown element is likely to be
the problem.
The fact the jug remained totally
dark pointed to the thermal switch,
but there were problems with this diagnosis.
To begin with, I knew we hadn’t
boiled the jug dry. I have done that
before; I killed the first kettle I ever
bought, and I’ve been extra-cautious
since. It was a bitter lesson. I loved that
modernistic plastic-fantastic kettle,
but one day I neglected to load it with
water, and it ended up a very funny
shape, about half as tall and twice as
wide as it started. I learned my lesson,
and I’ve never dry-boiled another jug.
However, I think there is another
component in play here. I noticed the
first few times we used this jug that a
few minutes after it has boiled, I hear
a very distinctive and metallic ‘ping’
sound. I think this is a thermal switch
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resetting. It can’t be a boil-dry switch,
as that shouldn’t be activated at all in
normal use.
While there is no mention of a thermostat in the troubleshooting guide,
common sense tells me there must be
one, as any so-called automatic kettle
will have a device that cuts power to
the element when the water reaches
100°C (boiling point). If this switch
fails, the jug will either boil itself to
death (if it failed short-circuit) or no
longer switch on at all (if it failed
open-circuit).
In the latter case, I’d expect no idiot lights either, which was what was
happening here.
A quick internet search for kettle
schematics (yes, really) confirmed
that there are typically two thermal
switches in most decent kettles. One
is for automatically switching the jug
off when it boils, usually via a ‘steam
tube’ arrangement, and the other triggers only if the jug is dry-boiled.
I also found a very informative, nontechnical consumer article comparing our kettle to inexpensive ‘big-box
store’ models, arguing that both are as
good as each other.
I didn’t particularly care about the
product comparisons or the conclusions drawn. Still, this article had
several good-quality photographs and
descriptions of the components inside
our appliance, which was very useful.
From this, I learned that the “neon”
indicators inside our kettle are in fact
LEDs, even though they are still referred to as “neons” in the user manual. I also discovered that the ‘guts’
of the jug is a large, single assembly
mounted inside the bottom. This includes the two thermal switches, two
power sockets and the element connections.
This part is manufactured by a UK
company named Otter Controls, and
spares are readily available, though
eye-wateringly expensive due to the
whole package usually being replaced
if anything in it goes wrong.
I gathered my tools to take the jug
apart and turned it over to work on it,
when I heard that distinctive ‘ping’
again. On a hunch, I put the jug onto
the base and it powered up. I boiled it
through a couple of cycles and heard
the thermal switch pinging/resetting
normally each time after boiling.
Regardless, I opened the base,
cleaned everything out and descaled
the jug as per the user manual. It is still
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working well today, so I didn’t find a
“smoking gun”, but I at least know
what I’m dealing with and what to do
should it fall over again.
Jug technician indeed!
Dremel 8000 rotary tool repair
G. C., of Salamander Bay, NSW, decided to upgrade his rotary cutting
tool, but he didn’t quite get what he
bargained for. It needed a few repairs,
but he did manage to get it going in the
end, despite a few pitfalls...
Around a year ago I purchased a
second-hand Dremel which I got cheap
because the battery wouldn’t hold a
charge. My battery-powered Dremel
1100 was getting old and was underpowered even when new, so I jumped
at the chance to purchase this newer,
bigger and hopefully more powerful
Dremel.
From the (tiny) picture and the
“near-new” description, I had assumed it was a current model Dremel
8200 with dodgy batteries. But when I
opened the package, I found a 15-yearold Dremel 8000 with a totally dead
lithium-ion battery pack. Giving my
new/old Dremel a thorough external
check, the good news was that it appeared in remarkably good condition
mechanically.
Its plastic housing was covered in
paint flecks and some unknown gunk,
but a spray of Nifty and some elbow
grease fixed this. Mechanically, it was
good, and the shaft spun freely with
zero bearing slop, so it was worth seeing if I could fix the battery problem.
I unclipped the battery pack from
the Dremel body and separated the
two halves. This proved to be a bit
tricky and was only accomplished
after wedging two spudgers under
the release clips. Inside I found three
standard 18650 lithium-ion cells, spot
welded together in an oddly shaped
assembly to fit inside the plastic case.
As expected, each cell was dead beyond repair.
Luckily I have lots of 18650 cells,
mostly salvaged from old laptop battery packs (I test them all and only
keep the ones which show a capacity of
at least 1Ah). So I saved the two power connection clips from the original
cells and soldered three good 18650
cells into a (nearly) identical battery
pack (with some added insulation for
the bottom cell).
I then noticed a glaring error in the
original design. Rather dangerously,
Dremel only provided external connections to the 0V and +10.8V points
in the battery pack, so there was no
way to balance the voltages across
the three cells. This could allow an
imbalance to build up over time, and
I think this could be what caused the
pack to go kaput.
This wasn’t a hard problem to fix,
as I have several BC-4S15D Li-ion
balance chargers and dozens of two-,
three-, and four-cell balance charging
leads for my radio-controlled models.
18650 cells were taped to the base of the Dremel, with
an external lead fitted to allow for balance charging.
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So I just had to solder the balance lead
wires in the correct order and make a
small exit slot for the wires, a method
I have also used extensively with other
DIY 18650 Li-ion packs.
I could then use my balance charger
periodically to both charge the pack
and ensure that the voltage is evenly
distributed between the cells, so none
are over-charged or over-discharged
during use.
Happily, when everything was
plugged together, the Dremel worked
perfectly – I just give it a top-up charge
every few weeks with the BC-4S15D.
It worked perfectly until a couple
of months ago. It then developed a
new fault: it was either off or running
at full speed, with the speed adjustment wheel having no effect. From
Balance charging the Dremel with a BC-4S15D periodically
helps to ensure all cells are charged evenly.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 65
many years’ experience, I suspected
the problem was a dead power Mosfet, so I unscrewed the Dremel body,
got out a DVM and checked.
As I suspected, the Mosfet had a
short circuit between its source and
drain pins. A quick Google search
didn’t help with a replacement Mosfet, but I knew that it must be an Nchannel type due to its source being
connected to battery ground. So I took
a punt and used an IRF3205 Mosfet,
which is rated at 110A with a low onresistance of just eight milliohms.
This was overkill, but cheap enough
and the low Rds(on) would minimise
heating at full power.
Removing the original Mosfet was
tedious, as it was riveted in place, but
not exceedingly tricky after I used my
old Dremel with a 20mm diamond cutoff wheel. It worked fine for another
10 days, and then the same problem
happened again.
So, with many four-letter words
being uttered, I repeated the repair,
this time replacing the Mosfet with
an HY3403D, having an even lower
Rds(on) of just 4mW.
You can imagine how pleased I was,
and the nature of my mutterings, when
it too failed after only a few days. This
was getting ridiculous, and I was determined to find out why these overpowered Mosfets were being repeatedly killed.
My first thought was that the design
might be a just a simple analog speed
control rather than a PWM (pulsewidth modulation) digital controller,
as the Mosfet was running hot enough
to burn me when I checked with a finger. So I fired up my Tektronix CRO
and looked at the voltage at the Mosfet drain.
Immediately, the reason for the failures became glaringly obvious. Yes,
it was receiving PWM drive, but the
back-EMF spikes were extremely high
at 70V, when they should be clamped
around 12V. It appears that the Mosfets were going into avalanche breakdown, and this was what was killing
them after just a few days.
The most likely cause was a faultyback EMF protection diode. Looking
at the Dremel PCB, the diode was easy
to spot, but its type was unreadable.
It was obviously a high-current dual
Schottky diode in an SMD D2PAK
(TO-263) package, but strangely, only
one half of the dual diode appeared to
be wired up.
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I didn’t have any D2PAK diodes on
hand, but as only half was used anyway, I didn’t need one. I just soldered
in the highest-current SMD schottky
diode I had, a 3A 40V SS34, across its
pads. After fitting the diode, I powered
up the Dremel and found the voltage
spikes were being clamped to less than
15V, and the Mosfet wasn’t even getting slightly warm.
I’m happy to say my new(ish)
Dremel has been running flawlessly
for many weeks now. In hindsight, I
would have saved a lot of time and
a few Mosfets if I had used the CRO
at the beginning, or even thought to
check the Mosfet operating temperature after low-speed use.
Church PA system repair
B. C., of Dungog, NSW was called
in when someone plugged a keyboard
into the PA amplifier at his church,
and all of the loudspeakers stopped
working. What he found was an unholy mess; since cleanliness is next
to godliness, he had to do something
about it...
Taking a closer look at the church’s
sound system, I found a Realistic
MPA95 PA amplifier with a TEAC stereo amplifier slaved to it. The TEAC’s
internal fuses had blown. I replaced
them, but then only the indoor loudspeakers worked. I thought that this
was probably due to internal damage to the STK amplifier IC inside the
TEAC amplifier.
A few days later, I walked around the
outside and inside of the church building and made a quick sketch showing
the four microphones and seven speaker positions, plus their cabling.
In addition to the MPA95 and TEAC
amps, there was also a more modern
Power Dynamics PD572 Radio Microphone Dual Diversity Receiver.
Beneath this lot was a veritable rat’s
nest of unbalanced microphone cables
and figure-8 low voltage power cables.
There were also six black zippy boxes
scattered around the church containing preamplifiers, power supplies, toggle switches and sockets.
I was given the go-ahead to upgrade
the microphone cabling and to repair/
upgrade the MPA95. I disconnected
the MPA95, carefully labelling of all
the connections.
I was told that this amplifier had
blown up about twenty years ago. It
had been looked at by a third party,
who had returned it unrepaired. He
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had suggested to instead slave a stereo amplifier to the preamp out socket (ie, the TEAC). The balance control
was used to fade in or out the outdoor
loudspeakers.
Back in my workshop, I removed the
top of the MPA95 to find that Q506,
Q507, Q508 and Q509 (the driver
and output transistors) were missing. I tried a Google search to find
out more about this amplifier but was
unsuccessful. So I decided to try to
keep the unit but fit two new amplifier modules internally, to drive each
set of speakers, with independent volume controls.
The MPA95 had a 30-0-30V AC
power transformer, so I took to eBay to
look for suitable amplifier modules. I
found a prebuilt mono amplifier with
a TDA72934 IC. This device’s data
sheet indicates that it can handle supply rails up to ±50V and delivers up
to 100W into an 8W load.That seemed
like a good match.
This module can be mounted to a
heatsink with a single screw, and all
the necessary connections are available via three terminal blocks on the
PCB. I ordered two of these, and while
I was waiting for them to arrive, turned
my attention to the wiring.
The church now only needed two
fixed microphones, one at the lectern
and one at the altar; the 2-channel radio microphone would cover other
scenarios. So I removed all the old
microphone cables, the figure-8 low
voltage cables and the six black zippy
boxes. Then I ran new shielded microphone cables and fitted XLR connectors at each end.
The two Realistic 600W Highball
Omnidirectional unbalanced microphones still worked quite well. I rewired them internally and fitted them
with balanced cables and XLR plugs.
That left the loudspeaker wiring to be
sorted out. Fortunately, I have a loudspeaker impedance meter.
There was a bundle of figure-8 loudspeakers cables coming down the wall
near the MPA95. Two of these were
for the four indoor church speakers. I
measured about 9W, indicating that the
speakers were in series. Two more cables went to old-style Bakelite tumbler
switches on a timber mounting block,
labelled “south” and “north & west”.
With both switches on, the impedance dropped down to about 2W. No
wonder there had been amplifier reliability problems! I rearranged the
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wiring to place them in series instead,
and the impedance went up to about
9W. There might be a slight difference
in sound levels between the three outdoor loudspeakers, but I didn’t think
that would be a real problem.
After the two amplifier modules arrived in the post, I prepared the MPA95
for a transplant. First, I removed the
old line matching transformer. The
large vertical heatsink assembly had
enough space for mounting the two
modules side-by-side. After the marking out and drilling of the two holes
required, I tapped them with an M3
thread, then mounted the modules
using silicone rubber insulating kits.
Since the bridge rectifier was also
mounted on the heatsink, it provided
a convenient point to pick up the two
30V AC rails required by the modules.
Each module has its own bridge rectifier and filter electrolytics. I then ran
the speaker output wires from each
module to the terminals at the rear of
the chassis.
For their input connections, I cut
the wire to the centre terminal of the
main volume control pot and ran this
via shielded cable to the input of the
amp module that would feed the indoor speakers. Then I fitted a 50kW
log potentiometer to a free area on the
front panel and connected this, also
with a shielded cable, to be in parallel with the main volume control. Its
wiper signal then went to the other
amp module input.
I decided it would be wise to check
all of the original soldering on the
MPA95 main PCB. This was a good
thing because I found dry joints around
the two voltage regulating transistors
which supply the ±12V rails to run
the preamp IC. I also found more dry
joints in areas of the main PCB, so I
resoldered them too. A couple of highESR electrolytic capacitors next to the
regulators also had to be replaced.
I checked everything, connected a
test loudspeaker to each of the outputs, plugged in a microphone and
switched it on. Everything appeared to
be working properly. I left the MPA95
to soak test, with a CD playing music
through the AUX input, for the rest of
the afternoon.
The next morning I took the MPA95
back to the church and set it up. I
set up a suitable music CD playing
and walked around to set the correct speaker levels. I then adjusted
all the microphone levels so they all
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matched. However, there was some
audible hum present. If the radio mic
levels were set to minimum, the hum
disappeared!
So I removed the PD752 radio mic
receiver and took off the top cover.
DMM tests revealed that the internal
PCB ground and the mains Earth connection were joined together via the
metal chassis. There was an Earth loop
being created by this internal connection. Fortunately, there was also a 12V
DC power input socket on the back. I
found that by powering it from a plugpack, the hum disappeared.
The handheld and lapel radio microphones had both previously tested OK.
However, I now found that the headset
mic had an internal wire break. I ordered a replacement from eBay. Upon
receipt, I removed the mini-XLR plug
from the old headset and soldered it
onto the new headset lead. I then tested
it and found it to work well.
I must admit, the wearing of this
type of microphone does give one a
sense of freedom compared to a handheld microphone.
Hyundai coil diagnostics
N. S., of Lismore, NSW was able to
use an OBD2 scanner and a little bit
of logic to easily diagnose and fix his
engine misfire problem. While OBD2
scanners don’t always point you
straight to the source of a problem, often they do and can save you a lot of
effort (and in some cases, cursing)...
I have spent (all too) many years
pondering lifeless, defunct or deceased
electronic circuits in every setting I can
conceivably imagine. As our venerable
columnist Dave has often noted, when
you can do this stuff, you can’t leave
well enough alone. The idea of throwing something away because it doesn’t
work never enters my head.
This is especially true of cars, and
I’ve recently been presented with several cars that are showing the dreaded “check engine” light. Many people
solve this by merely taping over the
light, but not me!
The latest incident was with a recently purchased 2006 Hyundai Accent. It ran fine for a few days after we
drove it home, then started to miss.
The check engine light shone steadily
until it warmed up and then started to
flash ominously.
A flashing light is said to be particularly serious because it indicates
a misfire that can result in large quanAustralia’s electronics magazine
tities of raw fuel going through the exhaust system. This can overheat the
catalytic converter, and they’re pretty
expensive to replace and in extreme
cases, can start fires.
As it was a recent acquisition, I did
a routine service and detailed visual
inspection. This model has one coil
per spark plug. They are sunk into
wells in the valve cover, above the
plugs. One was swimming in spilled
oil from the nearby oil filler while another was swimming in rusty water
from parts unknown.
Pulling the plugs showed that they
were a long time past replacement
and fitting a set of new ones brought
back the snarl – it’s a pretty decent little engine!
All was fine for a thousand kms,
but then the same symptoms came
back. The Accent has an OBDII port,
so I bought myself a scan tool from
OBD2Australia. I chose this one because they provide a complete list of
vehicles it supports, and it is covered
by a warranty that covers both the tool
and the vehicle it is used on.
A scan quickly brought up cylinder
one as missing, which is useful information. (I had a look, oddly, all the
cylinders were still there…). The scan
tool display also provided a link to a
YouTube of a mechanic progressively
testing the ignition coils of the same
model car, which is a very smart feature. You can see it for yourself here:
https://youtu.be/aQWgp4e0T68
The testing procedure was to simply
disconnect and reconnect the control
input from one coil after another, and
observe the response from the engine.
No response to a disconnected coil
means a suspect coil unit. To check
that the fault was with the coil and
not, say, an injector, the suspect coil
is swapped to another cylinder and
the process repeated.
Sure enough, using this process, I
determined that my cylinder one coil
was a dud and a replacement was both
quick and cheap.
This showed me that new cars are
fast becoming a peripheral to their
central computer, but that computer
is not the be-all and end-all. There is
still a need to peer at the car’s wiring
diagram and for systematic testing of
faults – something that the readers of
this magazine will appreciate!
Editor’s note: N. S. wrote a comprehensive article about OBD2 starting on
page 72 of this issue.
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September 2020 67
The Night Keeper Lighthouse
By Andrew Woodfield
The Night Keeper Lighthouse briefly lights up the darkness, to keep
children’s dreams from running aground on dangerous shores. This is
an excellent project for beginners; it’s easy to build, and you will learn
several important aspects of electronic circuit theory.
M
any readers will have children or grandchildren
who from time to time peer enquiringly at electronic parts and gizmos you’re working with on
the bench.
At moments like these, it’s useful to have a simple project available to encourage the next generation to take
up the hobby.
When my grandchildren were planning a visit recently, I was asked if I could help the 8-year-old build
‘something electronic’. Does this sound familiar?
Searching for a suitable circuit suitable for children, it’s essential that they can build it reasonably
quickly, before they lose interest. Equally, it should
be useful enough to gain parental approval.
I have had a blinking light circuit running on the
shelf above my workbench for several years. I built it
while testing some ideas for discrete high-efficiency
boost power supplies. The “rat’s nest” of parts was
built on a scrap of prototype board. These days, I
use it for the occasional end-of-life 1.5V cell. It’s a
simple way to use up the very last whiff of energy
from such near-dead batteries.
Rather than just building a blinking light, I thought
I could make it a little more useful and exciting
with a few simple improvements. First, I designed
a printed circuit board (PCB) to make it easier for
children (and parents, grandparents or caregivers) to build. That PCB allowed me to mimic a
widely recognisable object, and make it more
attractive and interesting.
It also suggested a few other applications,
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Silicon Chip
which will be noted later.
This, then, is the “Night Keeper”.
Building it is well within the capabilities of a bright 10to 12-year-old, or perhaps even younger with some adult
assistance. Since a soldering iron is required, they will need
close adult supervision and a well-ventilated workspace.
A kitchen table with a similar clear workspace of about
one square metre is perfect; cover it with a cloth or
some cardboard to protect the surface.
Circuit description
This simple and well-known oscillator circuit
(shown in Fig.1) consists of two transistors, a white
LED, and a few passive components. It brightly
flashes the LED once every second for many months
from a single 1.5V cell. Even a near-exhausted battery
can power the LED for a month or two.
The two transistors forming the heart of the device
operate as a highly efficient regenerative oscillator.
When power is first applied, the voltage on the base
of Q1 (Va) begins to rise slowly as the 10MΩ resistor
charges the 330nF capacitor from the battery. When
Va reaches about 0.6V, the base-emitter junction of
Q1, which acts much like a silicon diode, becomes
forward-biased and begins to conduct.
Meanwhile, the 10kΩ resistor has quickly charged
the 100µF capacitor to close to the battery voltage.
That’s about 1.5V for a new cell. This produces
a voltage across LED1 (Vc) very close to 1.5V.
However, LED1 cannot light up yet, because
white LEDs need more than 2.5V to operate.
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3.5V
6.3mA
2.8V
5.4mA
2.1V
4.5mA
1.4V
3.6mA
0.7V
2.7mA
0V
SC
NIGHT KEEPER
1.8mA
-0.7V
Fig.1: the Night Keeper uses a two-transistor
oscillator to drive a charge pump based on the 100µ
µF
electrolytic capacitor and the diode junction of white
LED1. Once per second or so, the point labelled “Vc”
will shoot up to around twice the battery voltage
(about 3V), providing enough voltage to light the LED
brightly for a few tens of milliseconds.
0.9mA
-1.4V
0mA
-2.1V
-0.9mA
-2.8V
-1.8mA
-3.5V
-4.2V
4.8s
5.1s
5.4s
5.7s
6.0s
6.3s
6.6s
6.9s
7.2s
7.5s
-2.7mA
7.8s
As soon as Q1 begins to turn on, its increasing base- Fig.2: this simulation shows how the voltages at Va (cyan), Vb
emitter current causes its collector current to rise still (green) and Vc (red) in Fig.1 change over time. Va ramps up, and
faster due to the transistor’s current gain (beta or hFE) then all three voltages suddenly shoot up, at which point the
being greater than unity. In turn, this results in Q2’s current through LED1 (blue) spikes, until the voltages drop and
base-emitter junction starting to conduct too. The the process begins again.
instant Q2 begins to conduct, voltage Vb starts to rise
due to the current passing from Q2’s emitter to its collector. This causes Q2 to abruptly turn off too. The result is Vb
Q2 amplifies Q1’s collector current still further, as a result suddenly falls from 1.5V to 0V. Va, via the 330nF capacitor,
of its own current gain. The increasing voltage Vb causes then drops from 0.5V to -1V.
Va to rise in ‘lock-step’ as the rise is coupled through the
It goes negative because, just before Q1 and Q2 switch
330nF capacitor. This triggers a swift ‘avalanche’ effect off, Va is at around 0.5V while Vb is about 1.5V. So when
through Q1 and Q2, causing them to both switch on fully Vb drops to 0V, that is coupled through the capacitor and
as a result of their combined current gain.
0.5V – 1.5V = -1V.
Consequently, the voltage at Vb rises suddenly and
At this point, the entire cycle begins again. The result is
abruptly up to the full battery voltage, around 1.5V with a very efficient regenerative oscillator which produces a
a new cell. Since Vb is now suddenly at 1.5V, Vc rises in brief, but bright flash from the white LED about once every
‘lock-step’ via the 100µF capacitor to give about 3V at Vc. second or two. This is largely determined by the time the
This is enough to forward-bias LED1, lighting it up. The 330nF capacitor takes to charge from -1V to about 0.6V via
charge stored in the 100µF capacitor is then dumped into the 10MΩ resistor.
LED1, giving a brief bright flash of light.
Note that while the parts list suggests BC54x and BC55x
This process is demonstrated in the simulation traces types, you could also use a 2N3904, 2N2222 or 2SC1815
shown in Fig.2. Va is shown in cyan, Vb in green and Vc in for the NPN transistor; and a 2N3906, 2N2907 or 2SA1015
red. The current through LED1 is in blue. You can see that for the PNP. Almost any pair of NPN and PNP transistors
all three voltages rise rapidly at the same time, coinciding will work, but keep in mind that pinouts can vary.
with the spike in LED1’s current.
While LED1 is lit, the 330nF capacitor keeps Q1 switched Construction
on and in doing so, discharges through its base-emitter
If all of the parts are ready to hand, the Night Keeper
junction. It manages to keep Q1 on for about 30ms. How- should take about an hour or so to build. Expect younger
ever, as soon as Va falls below 0.6V, Q1 begins to turn off. children to take longer. Splitting the build into two parts,
Parts list – Night Keeper Lighthouse
1 PCB, code 08110201, 64 x 91mm
1 BC547, BC548 or BC549 NPN transistor
[Jaycar ZT2154 or Altronics Z1042]
1 BC557, BC558 or BC559 PNP transistor
[Jaycar ZT2164 or Altronics Z1055]
1 5mm white high-brightness LED
[Altronics Z0876E or Jaycar ZD0190]
1 100µF 16V electrolytic capacitor
[Jaycar RE6130 or Altronics R5123]
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1 330nF MKT, ceramic or greencap capacitor
(code 0.33, 330n or 334)
1 PCB-mount AA or AAA cell holder [AA: Altronics S5029 or
Jaycar PH9203; AAA: Altronics S5051; Jaycar PH9261]
Glue or double-sided foam tape to fix cell holder to back of
main PCB
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% or 5%) (see overleaf for colour codes)
1 10MΩ
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1 10kΩ
2 1kΩ
September 2020 69
+
Fig.3: the PCB is made of two parts, the lighthouse itself and
its round base, complete with dangerous rocks! Snap or cut
them apart
before fitting the components where shown here.
Ratherthan attaching the cell holder via wire leads (as
shown here, which you could do), we instead recommend
mounting the holder on the back of the board.
fitting the resistors and capacitors in one brief session and
the remaining parts in a second, makes construction easier
and suits the shorter attention spans of young children
much better.
Completing the project with the addition of the battery
holder and base could be managed in a brief third session.
The Night Keeper Lighthouse is built on a PCB coded
08110201, which measures 64 x 91mm. Before starting,
snap or cut off the circular base from the side of the lighthouse, and file or sand both edges smooth. It’s a good idea
to score along the cut line before snapping it. To do that,
run a sharp knife along the line joining the small ‘mouse
bite’ holes several times.
Set the base aside for now, then refer to the PCB overlay
diagram (Fig.3) and construction guide (Fig.4) to see which
parts need to go where. All of the parts, except for the battery
holder, mount on the top side (the side with the component
outlines and part numbers), with their leads soldered on
the opposite side. The battery holder is mounted the other
way around, and that should be done last.
Begin by fitting the four resistors, which can be identified by the coloured bands as shown. 1% resistors usually
have five bands, while 5% resistors typically have four.
Both possibilities are shown.
Bend the legs of each resistor in turn with a pair of fine
needle-nose pliers or a bending jig, so they neatly fit through
the holes for each component in the PCB. Insert them, one
by one, in turn, spreading the wire leads apart slightly to
hold them in place. They can be fitted either way around.
Turn the PCB over and solder both leads to the pads. Then
trim off the leads flush with the solder joint using a pair
of sharp side-cutters.
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Silicon Chip
Next, fit the 330nF capacitor. It may be either a mylar,
MKT or ceramic type. Then install the electrolytic capacitor,
and solder and trim the leads in the same manner. Make
sure that the longer lead of the electro goes into the pad
marked + on the PCB. The striped side of the can should
be opposite the + symbol.
Now it’s time to fit the two transistors. Q1 is an NPN
transistor while Q2 is a PNP transistor. Each transistor
must be fitted in the correct location. They are generally not
pushed right down on the PCB, but rather, left with leads
sticking out by about 5-10mm. This distance is not critical.
You will probably find it helpful to spread the three leads
of each transistor slightly apart before inserting them into
the PCB, making sure the flat face is orientated as shown.
Once you have pushed the leads through the PCB, spread
them apart a little more on that side to hold them in place
before inverting the PCB to solder them to the PCB. Again,
trim the leads once soldering is completed.
Now mount the white LED at the top of the board. It has
a slight flat edge on one side. The LED should be inserted
so this matches the shape printed on the PCB overlay for
the LED. The longer anode lead will be on the opposite
side to the flat.
Carefully check that all of the parts are correctly located,
and that all of the component leads have been soldered
and trimmed. Check also that there are no solder splashes
which would cause short circuits.
The battery holder can then be mounted on the back of
the PCB. A standard AA cell holder is sufficiently large that
the end of the battery holder allows the lighthouse to sit
it on the edge of a shelf or a book, as shown in the photo.
The battery provides an ideal weight to hold the lighthouse
vertical, useful for tight corners of a bedroom or office.
The wire tails of some battery holders will fit precisely
into the holes provided on the PCB. The positive (+) lead
should go into the hole nearest the top of the PCB, adjacent
to the LED. Other battery holder leads may need to be bent
slightly to fit. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to bend the
wires gently into the appropriate shape to fit neatly.
Ideally, space the battery holder off the conductor-side
of the PCB by about 3mm. This provides enough space to
solder the two wire connections of the battery holder to
the correct pads on the rear of the PCB.
Attaching the base
Alternatively, the circular base PCB can be added. This
features a ‘rock-like’ overlay to add to the overall effect, and
allows the Night Keeper to be placed on a flat surface. This
part of the build may require additional adult assistance
to complete – two hands to hold everything in the right
place, the other two to apply solder and the soldering iron.
Begin by briefly soldering two small ‘blobs’ of solder at
each end of the lower tinned edge of the lighthouse PCB.
Place this on the tinned strip located on the upper surface
To join the two PCBs together, first
“tack” them with solder and then
run a bead of solder along the
tinned copper tracks on the PCB. It
won’t let go in a hurry!
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And here’s a side-on view showing the two
boards soldered together and the battery
holder in position. OK, we cheated a bit: we
found that the stiff tinned wire was sufficient
to hold it in place without glue or tape.
You don’t have to solder the main PCB
to the base: the weight of the AA battery
holder will ensure it stays in place
“hanging” over the edge of a bookshelf.
of the circular base PCB. The main PCB
should be approximately central and
vertical on top of the base.
Touch the soldering iron to the two
‘blobs’ of solder to ‘tack’ the two boards
together.
Repeat this if necessary, reapplying
the soldering iron briefly to each tacking point while adjusting the main PCB
slightly, until the main board is precisely
vertical and centred on the base.
Then apply further blobs of solder with
the iron along the join, keeping the two boards
in their final position.
Finally, run the soldering iron down the tack seam to
smooth the join and tidy its appearance.
instead of the AA type. In that case, you
can expect the cell to last closer to six
months. The battery life you achieve
will vary depending on the battery
type (heavy-duty, alkaline etc) and on
its condition when first inserted (new,
slightly used, near-exhausted etc).
Using the Lighthouse
The Night Keeper makes a useful
bright night-light for children. But keep
in mind that flashing lights can disturb sleep, especially if
they’re aimed at one’s face.
Also, because of the brightness of some high-efficiency
white LEDs, the Night Keeper should not be placed where
the LED will shine directly into any young and especially
sensitive eyes. It’s preferable to locate the Night Keeper
lighthouse so that the LED light shines slightly upwards
or at right-angles, perhaps onto an adjacent wall. Such arrangements are generally more effective for use as a night
light anyway.
Older constructors may find, as I did, that the Night
Keeper can be useful for locating things in the night, for
children and adults alike.
Suitably mounted near a door, a light switch or placed on
a shelf, it can help guide your way to a location or around
furniture in the depths of the darkest of nights.
SC
Just like a real lighthouse!
Operation
Have you noticed that there’s no power switch? The
circuit uses such a tiny current, a switch is unnecessary.
The battery life in use is similar to that of the shelf-life of
the battery. A new non-alkaline AA battery can run the
Night Keeper for over a year.
Hopefully, the faces of the new builders will light up
as brightly as the Night Keeper just as soon as they insert
the battery. As soon as the battery is inserted, the circuit
will start to blink.
Note that you could use a AAA battery holder and cell
LED1
White LED
Align flat on LED with PCB overlay
10k resistor, 5% or 1%
Brown - Black - Orange - Gold
or
Brown - Black - Black - Red - Brown
10M resistor, 5% or 1%
Brown - Black - Blue - Gold or
Brown - Blk - Blk - Green - Brown
BATT+
100F electrolytic ‘can’ capacitor
Align longer lead with PCB +
(Stripe on opposite side from +)
1k resistor, 5% or 1%
Brown - Black - Red - Gold
or
Brown - Black - Black - Brown - Brown
+
Q2
BC557 (PNP)
Align shape with PCB overlay
557
330nF MKT capacitor
Fit this capacitor either way
Q1
BC547 (NPN)
Align shape with PCB overlay
1k resistor, 5% or 1%
Brown - Black - Red - Gold
or
Brown - Black - Black - Brown - Brown
BATT-
547
Fig.4: in case it isn’t clear from Fig.3 which part goes
where on the board, here is what each component looks
like. Just follow the arrow to see where it goes. You can
match up the part orientations to the drawings, too; the
five components where orientation matters are LED1, Q1,
Q2, the electrolytic (can-shaped) capacitor and the battery
holder. The rest don’t care which way around they go.
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AA or AAA Cell Holder
Glue or double-sided tape to the OTHER
(copper) side of the PCB
+ (red) lead goes near LED1
- (black) lead goes to ‘Batt-’
September 2020 71
You too can
– advanced vehicle diagnostics
Modern vehicles deliver impressive performance and many extra functions
like semi-autonomous driving, live maps, streaming audio, motorised
doors and hatches etc. This all relies on many computer control modules
throughout the vehicle. What do you do when something goes wrong; how
do you even know where to start? Luckily, most vehicles will tell you what
they think is wrong – as long as you have the right diagnostic tool!
A
nyone who has driven a modern car cannot fail to
be impressed by their many electronic systems. The
engine and transmission are under computer control these days, but you might be surprised at how many
other electronic modules are involved and all communicating with each other to deliver a seamless experience
For folks raised on carburetted cast-iron engines, this
level of sophistication was something that could only be
dreamed of, but like so many things, the fabulous developments are a double-edged sword.
The sheer complexity of onboard systems has resulted
in a matching increase in the diagnostic and repair skills
required to keep them running, to the point where even
seasoned mechanics are struggling to keep up.
On the other hand, all these computers also give us advanced diagnostic tools that are continually monitoring
operating conditions, and they can be interrogated to ‘spill
the beans’ and tell us not only what they think is wrong,
but also give live data on the operating conditions and even
information on what might go wrong
in the future.
The more advanced tools (often vehicle manufacturer-specific) used to
cost thousands of dollars.
Now they have come down in price
significantly, and are accessible to
even the most impoverished mechanic
or tinkerer.
dread that comes with knowing that a costly repair could
be in your immediate future.
But don’t panic; there are many simple and cheap repairs for faults that trigger this light.
The key is in using the onboard diagnostics system to
pinpoint the faulty component.
In some cases, the path back to a fully functioning car
can be long and expensive, and the temptation to do it
yourself can be powerful. For anyone contemplating this,
it’s important to understand just what this OBD technology has to offer.
Before the 90s, most vehicles with digital engine computers already had some form of onboard diagnostics, but
it was a hodge-podge of different plugs and protocols. Work
to change that started in California in 1988, in an effort to
provide a consistent diagnostic interface to ensure that
vehicle emissions equipment was functioning correctly.
This resulted in a mandate for all US passenger vehicles
to implement the new OBD1 standard by 1991.
Enter OBD
For many people, the OBD (OnBoard Diagnostic) system is the onramp into the world of automotive
electronics.
When the dreaded “Check Engine”
light (also known as the malfunction
indicator lamp [MIL] or, to your mechanic, the “cha-ching” light!) comes
on, many experience the existential
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Silicon Chip
OBD2 systems use a standardised 16-pin connector. While the pinout is
standard, the communications protocols can vary.
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OBD2
By
Nenad
Stojadonovic
Limitations surfaced soon after release. OBD1
monitored only limited systems and was consequently unable to detect common but important
problems, such as misfires or malfunctions in the evaporative emissions systems.
There was also a requirement for only one O2 sensor,
meaning that the function of the catalytic converter was not
monitored – owners looking for higher performance could
(and did) remove the catalytic converter without triggering
any trouble codes from the system.
(By the way, in many cases it’s still possible to remove the
cats and fudge the system to avoid a check engine light. This
is stupid, in our opinion, as modern cats have little impedance on exhaust flow and thus minimal effects on performance. They do, however, reduce pollution dramatically).
The OBD1 system further suffered from the disadvantage
that the diagnostic tools were often proprietary and expensive, thus keeping the average owner from taking advantage
of the system.
Some manufacturers allowed access to basic malfunction codes by blinking the Check Engine light or an auto
test lamp in Morse code fashion.
This is triggered by actuating certain dashboard controls
in a particular order, or by shorting pins of the OBD1 port
together.
While this was a crude system, having any access to a
relatively sophisticated onboard computer was a boon to
the home mechanic, who up to that point had been diagnosing problems by examining spark plugs under a magnifying
glass or sniffing the exhaust pipe.
OBDII
In 1994, the OBD2 (or OBDII) standard was developed by
the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and mandated
for all US cars from 1996 onwards. Australian-made cars
adopted this same standard starting in 2006, although by
then, most imported cars already used the system so that
they could be sold in the USA.
We reported on the emergence of this standard in several
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past issues of the magazine, mainly in December 2003 (“A
Self-Diagnostics Plug For Your Car”; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/4793) and then in February 2010 (“A Look At Automotive On-Board Diagnostics”; siliconchip.com.au/Article/6).
The February 2010 issue also had a project to build your
own OBDII-computer interface (“An OBDII Interface For
A Laptop Computer”; siliconchip.com.au/Article/9). Back
then, commercial devices cost hundreds of dollars. Nowadays, you can get a Bluetooth module using an ELM137
clone chip for just a few dollars!
Those articles are still relevant, but many developments
have occurred in vehicle diagnostics in the past ten years
(even though the same OBDII interface is still used).
Hence, we decided it was time for this update.
OBDII history and details
The history of this development makes fascinating reading, with massive input and negotiation from the various
stakeholders which is beyond the scope of this article.
But the outcome was the standardisation of data held by
the onboard computer(s), together with the format and location of the diagnostic port, as outlined in Standard J1979
and J1962.
These standards have slowly been introduced to the
world’s passenger vehicles and light trucks – heavy vehicles comply with the substantially different J1939 standard,
which is optimised to take into account the sophisticated
hydraulic, pneumatic and other specialised systems that
these vehicles often carry.
A good place to find the data standardised under J1979
is contained in a Wikipedia page that can be found at
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs
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September 2020 73
The OBD2 port is mandated to be located close to the steering wheel – and is usually found behind a panel between the
wheel and the driver’s door.
It looks bewildering, but basically, it says that each chunk
of data produced by a vehicle’s onboard computer is stored
under a parameter ID (PID) in the same way as any processor stores values in memory – or like file folders in a filing
cabinet, for the older readers.
For example, PID 04 is the calculated engine load, and
PID 05 is the engine coolant temperature. The PID numbers
are often stated in hexadecimal so, for example, the engine
RPM value PID 0C (hex) translates to 12 in decimal.
For maximum flexibility, the PIDs are grouped into what
used to be called ‘modes’ but are now officially called ‘services’.
There are ten standard modes/services in all, and the
above PIDs came from Service 1, which is the ‘Show Current
Data’ service/mode. Refer to Tables 1 & 2 for more details;
note that Table 2 shows a tiny subset of the available PIDs.
Trouble codes
problem somewhere in the vehicle. A DTC will automatically turn on the ‘Check Engine’ light, also known as the
‘Malfunction Indicator Light’ (MIL) or ‘Check Wallet’ light.
Technically, the trouble codes are read out by a scan tool
via a Service/Mode 3 (read stored DTCs) and follow the format of a letter followed by four numbers, eg, P0301.
There are four letters available to indicate the broad subgroup that the problem belongs to, where P is Powertrain, B
is body, C is Chassis and U is Network. The numbers indicate the nature of the problem – in this case, the 3 indicates
a misfire and 01 indicates the misfire is in the no.1 cylinder.
Finally, the zero after the P indicates that this code is generic. Codes can be generic or manufacturer-specific, and
there is no easy way to tell which is which just by looking.
For example, P2004 is a generic code that indicates an intake
runner is stuck, but P3000 is manufacturer-specific while
Service/
Description
Mode No
01
Show current data
02
Show freeze frame data
03
Show stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
04
Clear DTCs and stored values
05
Test results, oxygen sensor monitoring (non-CAN only)
06
Test results, other component/system monitoring (CAN-only)
07
Show pending DTCs (current or last driving cycle)
08
Control operation of on-board component/system
09
Request vehicle information
10 (0A hex) Permanent DTCs (Cleared DTCs)
PID decimal
(hex)
0 (00)
1 (01)
2 (02)
3 (03)
4 (04)
5 (05)
6 (06)
7 (07)
8 (08)
9 (09)
10 (0A)
11 (0B)
12 (0C)
13 (0D)
14 (0E)
Table 1 – OBDII services/modes
Table 2 – Abbreviated list of PIDs for Show current data (service 01)
PIDs are separate from trouble codes. The correct name
for these is Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), and they are
stored in memory when an onboard computer detects a
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Silicon Chip
Description
PIDs Supported
Monitor status since DTCs cleared
Freeze DTC
Fuel system status
Calculated engine load
Engine coolant temperature
Short term fuel trim, Bank 1
Long term fuel trim, Bank 1
Short term fuel trim, Bank 2
Long term fuel trim, Bank 2
Fuel gauge pressure
Intake manifold absolute pressure
Engine RPM
Vehicle speed
Ignition timing advance
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P3405 is a generic code that relates to an exhaust valve.
Fortunately, the internet is as ever ready to come to our
rescue; a quick search for the trouble code will typically
find detailed explanations of the meaning, and quite often
a good video or two regarding a repair related to that code.
An excellent source of the various trouble codes, including some manufacturer-specifics, is at www.obd-codes.com/
trouble_codes/
So where does this get us?
It doesn’t take much perusal of the standard PIDs to realise that the main thrust of the standard OBD2 system is
engine performance, fuel use and emissions.
Given that it was the clean-air regulations that provided
the initial impetus for its development, this makes good
sense – and it was perfectly adequate for the cars available
when it was initially developed.
After all, most of them only had a single computer that
was devoted entirely to engine management (and maybe one
or two others, eg, for transmission control and miscellaneous functions like the instrument cluster and trip meter).
As time went on, vehicles of all kinds became more and
more computerised, and the modern car can have anything
up to 100 individual computers operating via the vehicle’s
own onboard internet.
Even unexpected things like car radios can be connected
and talking to everything else – I had the experience of a radio that had a data feed from the speedometer and wouldn’t
allow itself to be programmed while the car was moving!
To do this, manufacturers have gone far beyond the standard codes.
As mentioned above, they have put in specialised PIDs
and diagnostic codes relating to the features of a particular car or series of cars – such as data for sunroofs, security
features, specialised entertainment options etc.
See the panel reviewing the Forscan tool for a list of real
computers in a few different, relatively modern vehicles.
Fig.1: some DTCs found by Car Scanner and an ELM327based Bluetooth OBD2 dongle on a 2004 Peugeot.
Hierarchy of scan tools
Discovering and cataloging these many codes is expensive
and time-consuming, and what this means for us is that the
cheaper OBD2 scan tools tend to focus on the engine and
transmission, and stick to the standard codes.
The next step up from the cheap scan tools gives the ability to diagnose and clear faults in other systems such as the
ABS (anti-skid brakes), tyre pressure and airbag computers.
From there, the next step is the start of the sophisticated scan
tools that are intended for workshops and repair facilities.
To access the correct data files relating to the vehicle to be
tested, these tools will ask questions relating to the make,
model, transmission type, engine type and configuration,
the type of central computer etc.
Once they know this, they can interrogate everything
down to such esoteric modules as touch-sensitive door
handles, collision-avoidance radar etc.
Finally, there are the top-of-the-line tools that will do all
of the above, but can also inject data into the OBD2 port
to command the actuation of various functions in the car
(Service/Mode 8).
These tools can, for example, turn the fuel pump on and
off, actuate the transmission solenoids, change various engine parameters etc.
There is even a function which will detonate the airbags
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: a live data plot of the output of two narrowband
oxygen sensors on that same Peugeot, indicating failure
of the catalytic converter.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 75
in the car to make them safe when they reach the end of their
service life! (We hope that one asks if you really, really, really are extra sure that you want to go ahead…)
The good news is that with the steady advance of technology and the intensity of competition, the price of scan
tools is coming down, and the list of available functions is
getting longer.
It is worth noting that the functions available in any scan
tool are mainly the result of the software that the tool is running. Many of the cheaper tools use a ‘dongle’ that plugs
into the OBD2 port and communicates with a phone (or
tablet) via Bluetooth or WiFi. One such device is shown in
the lead photo.
It is the App that does the work; the dongle is simply
there to pass messages between the OBD2 port and the App.
Thus, the functions available from a dongle type scan tool
are somewhat dependent on the App that you download to
your phone to drive the dongle (some features require extra
hardware in the dongle, so the software can’t unlock those).
I use an iPad, and my dongle is compatible with Car Scanner, which I downloaded from the app store. More info on
this App can be found at www.carscanner.info
For those with an Android phone, my dongle works with
Torque Pro or Torque Lite (screengrab in the panel below).
Numerous forums discuss this App, and you can have a
look at the developer’s description of it on Google Play at
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab2r
What to look for
There are countless scan tools available on the market,
especially from overseas. I needed to work on several engine control systems, so I bought a dongle from OBD2Australia. I could have bought the tool from overseas for perhaps $15 or even less, but I paid the Australian dealer $39
for several reasons.
The main one is compatibility. Many of the cheap OBD2
dongles use ELM327 clone chips, which are not fully compatible with the genuine ELM327. This limits what you can
do with it, and will cause problems if you attempt anything
other than the most basic scans.
Secondly, compatibility has been a thorny subject in the
way that data is delivered to and from the OBD2 port. The
content is always the same, but the different manufacturers
have encoded it in different ways. They have furthermore
changed and evolved these over the years.
Wikipedia discusses the different encoding or ‘signalling’
protocols that have been used over the years at and, given
the fiercely individualistic nature of the car manufacturers,
they are entirely incompatible with each other.
So if your scan tool doesn’t understand that particular
vehicle’s communications protocol, you won’t get the full
details.
A subtle ‘gotcha’ here is that Australian vehicles often
have different specs from the same overseas model.
I have found the reputable retailers either publish lists
of vehicles that any particular scan tool is compatible with,
or else have someone to ask – and remember that warranty issues for an expensive machine from overseas can be a
nightmare.
The ELM327
You can’t go far without seeing the ELM327 logo. Elm of
Canada produces a range of chips that communicate with
76
Silicon Chip
an OBD2 interface, and the ‘327 is a very
capable chip that can handle most of the
protocols that have been used over
the years.
Their web site gives an excellent
rundown of these and the chips that
work with them at siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab2s
But be warned that to get the full functionality of an ELM327 chip, you must have a genuine ELM327 chip, which is probably not what
you will find inside any of the cheaper devices!
What can I do with it?
Good OBD2 dongles can do lots of things, including changing vehicle settings, running tests, resetting modules and so
on. But the single most important feature for most people is
scanning for DTCs, ie, trouble codes.
These are set when one of the vehicle’s computers has
detected a fault and turned on the Check Engine Light, and
that there will be a corresponding trouble code available
that can be read via the OBD2 port. In some cases, preliminary DTCs are generated even with the Check Engine Light
off, only illuminating the light once the problem repeats
frequently enough.
This is especially true when using one of the better and/
or manufacturer-specific scan tools. You might find dozens
of DTC ‘warnings’, which may give you a clue as to incipient or intermittent faults, even if the “check wallet” light
is still off.
When scanning for DTCs with most dongles, the operation couldn’t be simpler. Just plug in the tool, open the App
(if it doesn’t have its own display) and wait while it downloads the appropriate data from the OBD2 port.
Fig.1 shows my Car Scanner App displaying four codes
thrown by a 2004 Peugeot, indicating a problem with the
pollution control system. One of them says it is “pending”,
so you wouldn’t necessarily know there was a problem
without a scan tool.
If you look carefully, you can see that the App has a function that will look up web pages relating to the particular
trouble code, up to and including for the specific vehicle
that is being tested. Genius!
In this case, the P0410 test is incomplete but strongly indicates a problem with the secondary air injection pump,
which turned out to be correct – the air hose from the pump
had given up the ghost.
Once the hose was repaired, I could have left the car asis and the OBD2 system would have automatically cleared
the trouble code by itself after a certain number of drive cycles. But I wanted more data, so I hit the “Clear DTC” button and reran the scan.
Sure enough, the P0410 code was gone, but the P0420
was still there.
The P0420 codes indicate a problem with the catalytic
converter. The internet link took me to a YouTube showing
how to diagnose the trouble code using the live data function.
Live data
This is a function that most mechanics of yesterday would
have sold their grandmother for. It lets you see, in real time,
the data collected by all the sensors available to the particular scan tool, on the screen as a continuous flow of data.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
At a glance, you can see things like fuel mixture (air:fuel
ratio), turbo boost pressures, engine torque and power output, fuel pressures, engine load and RPM, various temperatures etc. All of which are worth gold when troubleshooting.
In this case, I investigated the P0420 fault by displaying
the data from the two oxygen sensors, as shown in Fig.2.
Modern cars have at least one O2 sensor close to the cylinder head (typically two in the case of V-engines with two
heads), which produce a signal directly related to the richness of the fuel mixture.
Most modern vehicles also have a second O2 sensor downstream of the catalytic converter, which monitors the efficiency of the chemical reactions inside the cat.
As it is typically a narrowband sensor, which only works
across a narrow range of air:fuel mixtures around the stoichiometric point, the first sensor can be expected to swing
back and forth across its full range at idle. The top graph in
Fig.2 shows this to be happening.
The second sensor is expected to remain steady at somewhere around 0.5V once the cat is warmed up and doing
its job, because it should be catalysing the reaction between
the excess fuel at one extreme, and oxygen at the other, in
order to burn all the fuel completely.
Alas, this was not happening, as can be seen in the bottom graph of Fig.2. There are a few reasons why this could
be, including simple things like exhaust air leaks. Still, a
few gentle taps with a rubber mallet resulted in a loud rattle from inside the cat, which strongly supported the theory
that it was an ex-catalytic converter.
Freeze frame (Service/Mode 2)
If that’s not enough, vehicles will take a snapshot of all
PID data when a fault occurs and the corresponding DTC is
set, and many scan tools can download that data for analysis. For those of us who have struggled to find elusive intermittent problems, having the operating conditions under
which a fault occurs is a huge leg up.
Note that not all scan tools will support this function. If
you need it, check that it is available in the scan tool you’re
ordering.
Service/Mode 6 diagnostics
Not all faults are serious, and not all faults have an eas-
ily defined point at which
they become a fault. Better
scan tools will allow you
to investigate problems
which may be brewing before they trigger a trouble
code, both to see them and
also to see how close they
are to a predefined threshold which will set the relevant trouble code.
A good example of this
comes in the form of misfires. Most cars will have
the occasional misfire,
especially when idling
where the engine operates
under the leanest fuelling
conditions.
To avoid every misfire
setting a trouble code,
the engine control computer counts misfires in
each cylinder, then runs
the tally through a statistical analysis algorithm
that compares it to an upper limit.
Screen1: some of the live
In other words, the odd data parameters that can
misfire is ignored, but be shown with the free App
when they start to mount Torque Lite and almost any
up to an unacceptable lev- OBD2 dongle.
el, the computer will trigger the P03xx trouble code.
Mode 6 is invaluable in this instance, as the raw count
can be investigated and it can show patterns that facilitate
diagnosis and repair.
I looked at a car recently that would misfire noticeably under load, but didn’t trigger a fault code. I found a particular
cylinder had a high count that turned out to be caused by
a coil pack that was on its way out (a very common problem, unfortunately).
Magic
Hopefully, this brief guide will provide you with a good
idea of where to go when the dreaded Check Wallet light
comes on. OBD2 is not magic, and there will be no arrow
floating in the air pointing at the offending component, but
with the appropriate workshop manual and bit of practice,
there will be few problems that will cause you much angst.
At the very least, you will not be peering at spark plugs
and sniffing the exhaust pipe like your grandfather had to do.
Even if you have zero mechanical skills, being able to scan
for faults before they become serious can be very helpful.
And if you do have a serious fault, doing a scan immediately might tell you something that could be lost before you
get the vehicle to a mechanic.
It may also save you from unnecessary repairs, as we’ve
heard of some unscrupulous mechanics who will quote for
a lot of unnecessary work in addition to fixing the real problem, just to make more money.
If you have a good idea going in what’s wrong, you may
be able to head that off at the pass…
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 77
Forscan, Torque and other OBD2 software . . .
I purchased the Forscan dongles pictured here for $45 (Bluetooth version)
and $39 (USB version), including postage, from www.obd2australia.com.au
(believe it or not, I ordered them before
Nenad sent in his article and I saw where
he got his…).
These can be used as generic OBD2
dongles, but they are designed to give
full access to modern Ford and Mazda
vehicles (hence the name).
They will probably work well with
other makes too, as they use genuine
ELM327 chips.
Why Ford and Mazda? Ford owned
a stake in Mazda from 1979 to 2015,
and they shared a lot of engineering, including engines and engine computers.
In fact, many four-cylinder Ford engines today are derivatives of Mazda
designs.
And both companies appear to be still
using compatible electronic protocols
for their vehicle electronics.
This is ideal for me because, in my
immediate family, we own one Australian Ford, one European Ford and one
Japanese-built Mazda.
So this one cheap dongle gives us
Screen2: page one of many of the
vehicle info given by Forscan Lite for a
2015 Ford Kuga (which has since been
renamed “Escape”).
78
78 S
Silicon Chip
dealer-level diagnostics and configuration support for all our vehicles!
The accompanying screengrabs from
an Android phone show this dongle being used by three different apps to communicate with my wife’s Ford Kuga (the
latest model is called the Escape).
Screen1 is from Torque Lite, mentioned in the main text of the article. You
can configure the screen to show just
about any combination of parameters,
including running graphs.
Here I have just selected some of the
more useful parameters and taken the
Screen3: page two of the Kuga module
information. The car has over a dozen
separate electronic modules.
Australia’s
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
screengrab with the engine idling.
Torque can also read DTCs, but
doesn’t show anything much if none
are found. I selected the option and
simply got a message indicating that
no codes were found.
As Torque doesn’t seem to be geared
towards reading DTCs, I had a quick
look and found Car Scanner (the Android version this time). Its main
screen is shown in Screen8. It appears
to be pretty capable, but unfortunately
contains ads (how does it know I need
new boots?).
Screen4: page three of the Kuga
module information. The vehicle has
two buses, so you need a dongle with
a switch to scan them all.
siliconchip.com.au
by Nicholas Vinen
Interestingly, as shown in Screen9,
this software did find two DTCs logged
in the vehicle. These appear to be communication errors between various modules in the vehicle. It wouldn’t show me
any more information than this, though;
pressing on these errors did however
helpfully redirect me to a website indicating what might cause these codes.
Then I fired up the Forscan Lite software, for which I paid less than $10. The
full Forscan software runs under Windows and is free, except for its advanced
features; more on that below.
After connecting to the dongle, it
spent some time querying data, with a
series of LEDs pulsating on the dongle.
I then pressed on the Vehicle Information menu item, and the result is shown
in Screens2-4.
This gives you an idea not only of how
comprehensive this software is, but how
many different modules are in the car!
Interestingly, as well as listing the
modules and their hardware and software revisions, it shows the odometer
readings which are stored in several different modules.
This gives you a way of checking
whether the odometer reading is accurate, or if it has been messed with; they
should all agree.
I then went into the “Errors” menu
item to read the DTCs (Screen5). While
Torque Lite showed zero errors and Car
Scanner showed two, Forscan found
three, and also gave more detailed information in each case.
So this shows you the value of having
a manufacturer-specific or dealer-type
diagnostic system for troubleshooting.
Forscan Lite also lets you run vehicle
self-tests (only some of which are shown
in Screen6) and perform service tasks
such as resetting or calibrating certain
modules (see Screen7; again, this is a
small subset of the available options).
I plugged the same dongle into the
Mazda CX-9, and I was surprised to find
that even more modules were available! I
suppose I should not have been so surprised, as it is an even newer vehicle.
Rather than take up a lot of space with
screen grabs, I’ll simply list what it found.
It found the Engine Control Unit (ECU),
Transmission Control Module (TCM),
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), OBDII interface, Head Up Display (HUD_
MZ), Amplifier Module (AM), Connectivity Master Unit (CMU), Power Liftgate
(PLG_MZ), Smart Brake Support/Mazda Radar Cruise Control (SBS/MRCC),
4X4 Control Module (4X4M), Antilock
braking system (ABS), Electric Parking
Brake (EPB), DC to DC Converter Control Module (DCDC), Driver’s Seat Module (DSM), Restraint Control Module
(RCM), Adaptive Front Lighting System /
Auto Levelling Module (AFS/ALM), Start
Stop Unit (SSU), Electronic-Controlled
Power Steering (EPS), Front Body Control Module (F_BCM), Instrument Cluster (IC), Forward Sensing Camera (FSC),
Blind Spot Monitoring, Left and Right
(BSML, BSMR), View Monitor Camera
(VMC_MZ), Rear Body Control Module (R_BCM), Parking Sensor Module
(PSM_MZ) and Electronic Automatic
Temperature Control (EATC).
Phew! I’m glad to report that those
are all working, and there were no DTCs
to be found.
Screen5: some of the DTCs that
Forscan Lite found in the vehicle. It’s
handy that it shows which module
has thrown them.
Screen6: some of the procedures that
Forscan Lite allows you to carry out,
such as resetting various modules or
running calibration procedures.
Screen7: you can also use Forscan
Lite to run some vehicle self-test
routines, some of which are shown
here.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
Australia’s
USB, Bluetooth and WiFi
Those are the three available communications options for the Forscan
dongles.
September
eptember 2020 79
Screen8: I also tried Car Scanner with
my Forscan dongle. It worked, but
didn’t give as comprehensive results
as Forscan Lite.
Screen9: Car Scanner found some but
not all of the DTCs that Forscan Lite
reported.
80
80 S
Silicon Chip
I originally purchased the Bluetooth
version as it’s the most convenient for
use with a smartphone.
Presumably, the WiFi version will
work with a phone too; I haven’t tried it.
But one of the main reasons I bought
it was to turn on the auto-door-locking
feature in my wife’s car.
This is a feature that all our other
cars had, but for some reason, the Kuga
doesn’t. This is despite the “anti-carjacking” feature being mandatory in North
America, where the same car is sold (in
left-hand drive form, obviously).
To turn this on, I needed to go into
the vehicle’s “Central Configuration”
mode. This involves uploading a small
‘bootloader’ to the body computer and
rebooting it into a mode that lets you
change the configuration.
You need the full (paid) version of
the Forscan PC software to do this, but
it isn’t expensive – around $100 for a
lifetime license, and less for a few years.
However, when I tried this, I got several error messages and a warning that
if something went wrong, it could ‘brick’
the car!
Having failed on the first attempt, I
decided that Bluetooth wireless comms
was not reliable enough for this type of
operation, so I ordered the USB version
instead. It did seem to work much more
reliably; I still got some error messages,
but this time, I was able to get into the
configuration and turn on that feature.
We’ve been waiting to enable it for
years, so I was very pleased when I went
for a short test drive afterwards, and the
doors locked and unlocked themselves.
That alone was worth the total of under $200 for both scan tools and the
software. The screens at right show
some of the other settings which were
available for me to change.
I would say that these little units are
excellent investments if you own any
newer Ford or Mazda model (say, made
in the last ten years).
The Bluetooth version is great if you
just want to read DTCs or run basic tests,
but if you want to change the configuration, get the USB version. See www.
forscan.org for extensive documentation and forums.
By the way, one major advantage of
the Forscan PC software compared to
phone Apps like Forscan Lite is that the
much larger laptop screen is that you
can more easily display and log the dizzying array of data and parameters availSC
able to scan.
Australia’s
Australia’s electronics
electronics magazine
magazine
Above: the four pages of configuration
settings I can change in the Kuga’s
Central Configuration.
siliconchip.com.au
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siliconchip.com.au
readings due to it being over an important artery.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 85
USB
By Phil Prosser
Part II: Circuit Description
Last month, we introduced our new USB
Sound Card design which boasts unimpeachable recording
and playback performance. It isn’t only useful for recording and
playback either; with some inexpensive software, it can make a very
advanced audio signal analysis system. Now it’s time to describe the
details of the circuitry behind its phenomenal performance.
W
e covered the basic operating principles of the SuperCodec in last month’s introductory article, but
we ran out of space to fit the full circuit details.
As you will see from this article, that’s mainly due to the
number and size of the circuit diagrams.
As the circuit of the SuperCodec is too large to fit across
two pages, we have broken it up into five sections: the
computer interface with galvanic isolation (Fig.12), local
clock generation and asynchronous sampling rate conver-
sion (Fig.13), the ADC section (Fig.14), the DAC section
(Fig.15) and the power supply (Fig.16).
Galvanic isolation
The galvanic isolation is provided by IC12, a Maxim
MAX22345 (see Fig.12). This is a fast, low-power, fourchannel galvanic isolator chip. We are using the 200Mbps
version as we wanted to be able to transfer clock signals at
more than 12MHz (the bit clock [BCLK]) and 24MHz (the
USB3.3V
I2S data OUT Ch1&2
J1
26
51
1
2
1
J2
10
I S data IN Ch1&2
2
VDDA
DEFA
3
IN1
4
DVDD3.3V
100nF
IC12
MAX22345 20
7
VDDB
DEFB
14
OUT1
18
MINIDSP
I2S_DAC
IN2
OUT2
17
MINIDSP
B CLK
5
IN3
OUT3
16
MINIDSP
LRCLK
6
OUT4
IN4
15
MINIDSP
I2S_ADC1
USB BCLK
8
USB LRCLK
9
OPTICAL
OUTPUT
1
J3
2
(VIA CON2)
(VIA CON3)
1
2
12
1
76
100nF
OPTICAL
INPUT
MINIDSP MCHSTREAMER MODULE
USB
TYPE B
DVDD3.3V
2
ENA
ENB
NC
NC
GNDB
GNDB
GNDA
GNDA
10
13
12
19
RESET_L
11
10k
USB GND
3
USB3.3V
BC549
VCC
DS1233
USB3.3V
B
E
1k
2
C
2
OPTO1 4N28
6
1
5
4
C
B
Q1
BC549
RESET
IC13
DS1233
GND
1
E
3 2 1
SC
2020
SUPERCODEC (USB SOUND CARD)
MiniDSP MCH Streamer & Galvanic Isolation Circuitry
Fig.12: this section of the full circuit connects the MCHStreamer to a MAX22345 high-speed isolator and a bogstandard 4N28 optocoupler. The latter releases the ADC & DAC reset lines 350ms after plugging in USB.
86
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ally bulkier). Maxim does not explicitly state which, but it
master clock [MCLK]).
appears to be capacitive.
The version that we are
We’re also using an ordinary old 4N28 optocoupler. This
using provides three “left to
tells the audio side whether there is power being received
right” and one “right to left”
from the computer.
channels. This is ideal for isoIf there is no power, the ADC and DAC are held in reset.
lating the I2S output from the
Once there is 3.3V power from the USBStreamer, the
MCHStreamer.
When we had the computer
ground electrically connected to the USB Sound
Card ground in a real-world system, we found it impossible to get rid of
residual 50Hz related noise and a bunch of
“spurs” in the noise floor. While these were low
enough to be inaudible, putting the galvanic isolation into the system saw these drop significantly.
Indeed, even allowing the USB earth to connect to
the case of the USB SuperCodec increased the 50Hz
hum by 10-20dB!
This chip is not that expensive, but the benefit of
using it as part of a measurement system is huge.
We must make it clear that while this device
provides a high degree of isolation, we have not
designed the circuit board to handle significant
voltage differences between the two domains. Do
not, in any circumstances, rely on this design to
provide safety isolation between the PC and the
sound interface!
It is purely intended to improve the performance, and allow a few volts of difference between your computer and audio grounds, as can
sometimes occur.
The data rates from the USB interface are quite
high. The MCLK signal is at 24.576MHz for the
192kHz sampling rate, and the BCLK is half this,
at 12.288MHz.
Design and layout of a board for reliable operation at 25MHz requires attention to detail, careful grounding and termination for long traces.
We have used series termination on the
25MHz clock signal, and managed to keep
high-speed traces tidy and with a minimum of
vias. They all run over a solid ground plane for
their entire length. Where we have had to route
across these signals, we made the aperture in
the ground plane as small as possible.
We came close to utilising a four-layer PCB
for this design, but by constraining the digital
signals to a limited area, and with careful layout, we have avoided the cost this would incur.
In the final version of the design, we
are using a local clock oscillator for the
24.576/25MHz clock, so while we can access
the master clock from the MiniDSP MCHStreamer, it is not used, as we can do better with a local clock source. Hence, Fig.12
does not show any connection to the MCLK
pin of the MCHStreamer module.
In case you are wondering how the
MAX22345 works, isolators like this generally get the signal across the isolation barrier
We’ll get onto the construction next month, after we’ve finished with
using either magnetic or capacitive coupling
the rather involved description. To whet your appetites, here’s the
(high-speed optical isolators exist but are usucompleted PCB mounted on the input/output socket, shown life size.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 87
Fig.13: the ASRC circuitry sits in between the
galvanic isolation section and the ADC and
DAC chips. Its job is to pass digital audio data
between two clock domains: that of the USB
MCHStreamer, with a nominal 24.576MHz
master clock, and the ADC and DAC, clocked
by 25MHz crystal oscillator module XO1. The
relative drift of these two clocks is taken care
of by the digital filters in IC6 & IC7.
ADC and DAC are taken out of reset after 350ms. The DS1233
provides this delay; the signals from the USB Streamer
should have stabilised after 350ms. From a users perspective, this means that when you plug the USB SuperCodec
in, it looks after its own reset and “just works”.
Local Clock Generation and ASRC
This section has been the subject of a lot of work. It
would be possible to drive the ADC and DAC directly from
the miniDSP MCHStreamer, as isolated by the MAX22345.
But what if the user wants to operate the card at 44.1kHz,
48kHz, 96kHz, 192kHz or some other rate? How do the ADC
and DAC get set up for this?
The CS4398 and CS5381 chips both have mode pins that
must be set depending on the sampling rate at which we
88
Silicon Chip
want to operate.
In the prototype, we used jumpers to set the sampling
rate for the ADC and DAC. We quickly decided that users
will want to plug the card in and have it sort this out for
itself. It would be possible to, say, use a microcontroller to
sense the sampling rate and set the chips up accordingly.
But there is a better way – using a device called an asynchronous sampling rate converter (ASRC).
ASRCs are found in professional recording studios and
also consumer equipment which has digital audio to digital audio interfaces.
Imagine you have two digital audio devices, say an amplifier and a CD player. Each is a standalone device with
its own clocks and generally looks after itself. When you
plug these together, if you want to have the CD player pro-
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
vide digital data to the amplifier, what happens if (as is inevitable), the CD player’s clock is just slightly different in
frequency to the clock in the amplifier?
Eventually, the CD player will provide either too much
or too little data to the amplifier. In serious situations (eg,
professional mixing rigs), you can have a master clock distribution system. But most devices don’t have provision
for that. Alternatively, you can use an ASRC.
Instead of locking the clocks of different chips together,
the ASRC flips the problem on its head. It allows our ADC
and DAC to have their own clocks, and does a bunch of
maths to pass the correct digital values to and from the computer at whatever sampling rate it happens to be running at.
This involves the ASRC monitoring the different sampling rates, then implementing digital filters to deliver the
exact digital value needed at every sample interval.
The upshot of this is that we can use a local 25MHz clock
source to drive both the ADC and DAC. The clock we have
chosen is good without getting silly. Its typical RMS jitter
is less than 1ps (one million millionth of a second!). You
could go for a better unit, but our analysis suggests that the
difference would be essentially unmeasurable. Indeed using
a “better” clock is a tweak that some serious audiophiles do.
We have used a sample rate converter in each of the ADC
and DAC lines, as we need to perform this translation for
both recording and playback.
The devices we’re using are both Cirrus Logic CS8421s.
If you are worried about what these things may do to the
sound, fear not. These are rated for 175dB dynamic range
and -140dB (0.00001%) THD+N!
So the impact of these devices is so low that it is not at
all detectable, let alone audible. (We have donned our asbestos underwear as we await the flame throwers of the
anti-ASRC audiophile crowd!)
The actual implementation of these chips is not complex, as shown in Fig.13. The digital audio signals go into
pins 7, 8 & 9 at one particular sampling rate and emerge
from pins 12, 13 & 14 at a different rate, to match up with
the clock signal applied to pins 2.
Using an ASRC has a couple of implications on how the
ADC and DAC are set up and driven.
Firstly, we must provide a low-noise clock. This is from
XO1, a 25MHz clock oscillator module.
Secondly, we need the local left/right clock (ie, sampling rate) at a higher rate than the 192kHz that the MiniDSP USBStreamer uses, to ensure no degradation of the
digital signal. 25MHz divided by 32 (bits each in the L and
R samples) divided by 2 then 2 again is 195.3125kHz. So
that suits us fine.
We need to set the ASRC for the CS4398 DAC as a master output so that it generates the 195.3125kHz left/right
THIS . . .
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Some of the components for this project are rather specialised so might be difficult to track down.
To assist you in this endeavour, we have produced a
spreadsheet which gives catalog codes for each part needed,
from six different sources:
• Altronics • Jaycar • Digi-Key • Mouser • element14 • RS.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 89
clock (LRCK) and control signals for
this ADC on its output – ie, the ASRC
drives the DAC at this rate at all times.
We need the ASRC for the CS5381
ADC as a master input so that it generates the 195.3152kHz clock and control signals for the MCHStreamer on
its input.
Pin 6, BYPASS, allow the ASRC
action to be disabled, but since we
always want it active, we have tied
this to GND. Similarly, we are not using the Time Domain Multiplexing
(multi-channel) feature, so pins 11
are tied low.
The MS_SEL pin of IC6 is pulled
down via a 2kΩ resistor, which sets
the device to slave mode on its input
side (clocks are inputs), and master
mode on its output side (clocks are
outputs). The 1kΩ resistor from pins
19 (SAIF) to ground sets the inputs of
both devices to 32-bit I2S mode; one
of six different digital audio protocols
this chip supports. This matches the
data format from the MCHStreamer.
Similarly, the 4kΩ total resistance
from pins 18 (SAOF) to ground sets
the output side to I2S mode with 24-bit
data, to suit our ADC and DAC chips.
This is one of 16 possible formats the
chip supports.
Once set up as above, this forms a
neat interface between parts of a system that may have differing clocks. Is
there a downside? They are not cheap
devices, at $17 each from Mouser. But
we think that’s worth it for the flexibility they provide.
Analog-to-digital conversion
We’re using the CS5381-KZZ chip.
Cirrus Logic make two similar devices,
the CS5361 and CS5381. They are pincompatible, but the CS5381 has better
distortion performance.
We have specified the better of the
two. You could drop in the CS5361
SC
90
SUPERCODEC (USB SOUND CARD)
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
instead, and will lose a bit of performance on the input channels.
The circuitry surrounding this chip,
shown in Fig.14, is close to what is
recommended by the Cirrus Logic
application note. However, we have
gone to extra lengths to ensure very
symmetrical drive of the input, and
to make sure that the sound card has
a high-impedance input. Ferrite beads
FB3 & FB4, with the following 100pF
capacitors to ground, form RF filters
at the inputs.
Bipolar electrolytic capacitors block
DC voltages, with a -3dB cutoff well
below 1Hz. Schottky diodes D5, D10,
D15 & D16 protect the op amp inputs
against spikes and excess voltage. In
normal operation, these do not affect
the signal.
IC2a/IC4a operate as unity-gain buffers. They provide a low-impedance
drive for the following two stages without affecting the input.
IC2b/IC4b operate as inverters. We
have used 1.2k feedback resistors, as
low as practical, to keep noise down
while allowing the operational amplifier to drive the following stage without any concern of increasing distortion by overloading the output.
We could have gone a touch lower
Fig.14: the stereo analog audio signals applied to RCA sockets CON6a & CON6b are buffered and pass through a series of RF filters before being converted to balanced (differential) signals, which are then
fed to the pairs of ADC inputs at pins 16/17 and 20/21 of IC1. The
2.7nF filter capacitors are critical to getting good results, while numerous schottky diodes protect the various ICs from signal overload.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
in resistance, but feel this is a good
compromise on performance and power use.
IC3a/IC5a and IC3b/IC5b drive the
differential inputs of the ADC, and
all four stages are configured in a very
similar manner. There are a couple of
things going on here.
The non-inverting inputs are held
at a 2.5V bias via 10kΩ resistors from
IC1’s VQ (quiescent voltage) pin, pin
22. These resistors have 10nF local bypass capacitors to ensure the op amps
see a very low source impedance.
The inverting inputs of these op
amps are driven by the in-phase and
inverted signals from the previous
stage, which are capacitively-coupled
to support the DC offset. You might be
concerned that the input signal could
affect the 2.5V, but these signals are balanced, so their effects on the reference
voltage essentially cancel out.
The 470pF feedback capacitors form
low-pass filters in combination with
the 680Ω and 91Ω resistors. This has
a cutoff way above the audio band, at
around 500kHz, to ensure stability and
get rid of any RF noise which makes it
past the input filter.
At audio frequencies, these four stages form unity gain buffers. The fact that
the output is taken from the junction of
the resistors reduces transient loading
on the operational amplifier.
Some low-pass filtering is provided
by the combination of these resistors
and the 2.7nF capacitors across the
pairs of differential ADC input pins.
These capacitors are mounted very
close to the input pins. Our testing
showed that these capacitors are critical to the performance of the ADC.
Do not use any old capacitor. Do not
use an “audiophile” capacitor. Do use a
ceramic NP0 or C0G type capacitor, surface mounting, of known provenance.
We built a prototype with a film capacitor here, and the distortion went up by
a factor of ten. We also tried silver mica
caps, and they were no better.
Clearly, it isn’t just the linearity of
this capacitor that is critical; the oversampling ADC draws pulses of current
from these caps at a high frequency, so
we need caps with a low ESR at several megahertz, as well as linearity. Only
NP0/C0G ceramics provide both.
The ADC input pins have BAT85 diodes to each rail for protection. Reviewing the data sheet, it seems that the ADC
should survive the maximum output
current of a NE5532, but it might not
September 2020 91
survive the maximum output current
of an LM4562. Because some people
might try different op amps – and since
IC1 costs around $45 (!) – it’s worthwhile protection.
The VA analog supply to IC1 is nominally 5V, and we have a local low-dropout linear regulator (REG5) to provide
a 3.3V digital logic supply rail for IC1.
We have done this locally as it draws
little current and made the layout so
much easier.
Pin 15 of the ADC provides an overflow indication. This drives the LED on
the front of the unit. Should this flash
during operation, you are driving the
ADC into clipping, and need to lower
the input level.
Generally, you should be running the
input substantially lower than this. The
noise and distortion are optimal at a
decibel or so below clipping, and even
if you run this 10dB lower, the impact
on performance will be minimal.
The ADC pins at upper right are
tied either to VL or GND to set it up
in ‘hardware mode’ (ie, not being controlled by a microcontroller), with the
correct audio format selected. The dig-
itised audio signals appear at pin 9 of
IC1 and goes onto ASRC IC7, as shown
in Fig.13. That same ASRC chip and
XO1 provide the clock signals at pins
3, 4 & 5 of IC1.
Digital-to-analog conversion
The CS4398 DAC is configured in
a fairly conventional manner – see
Fig.15. Discussing the right channel,
IC9’s differential outputs drive two
low-pass filters formed by IC8a and
IC8b. The filter on each pin is set up to
present the same load to the two outputs. The impedances have been kept
low to minimise noise. This filter is
the same as used in the DSP Crossover last year and limits the output of
supersonic signals.
We have specified C0G ceramic capacitors (or NP0; same thing) where
ceramic types are used. This is very
important as other dielectrics will introduce more distortion.
For the 1.5nF, 10nF and 22nF capacitors we used MKT capacitors. The
self-resonance of low-value MKTs is
typically in the 10MHz region, so the
filter behaved well and provided ex-
cellent performance. They are easier
to obtain than NP0/C0G ceramics with
those same values, so you might as
well stick with the MKTs. But if you
use very high-speed op amps in place
of the NE5532s, things could change.
IC10b forms a differential-to-singleended signal converter. The 1.2kΩ resistor values are low enough to minimise noise while not overloading the
op amp, and leave headroom for it to
drive a load. The 470pF capacitors in
this stage form the final stage of the
low-pass filter.
The DC output level of the DAC
is 2.5V. This runs through the filters
formed by IC8a & IC8b. Rather than
AC-coupling the signal to the differential to single-ended converter, we have
used the converter to remove the bulk
of the DC offset itself. The AC-coupling
capacitor at its output removes any residual DC – though in our prototype,
this was a very low level.
The power supply
The power supply, shown in Fig.16,
may look over the top. This design
makes no apology for taking power sup-
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SUPERCODEC (USB SOUND CARD)
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Still using NE5532s – really?
We have specified NE5532 op amps for this project. This may
be a point of contention with some readers.
We built eight of the DAC modules as used in the DSP Active
Crossover, allowing a comparison of NE5532 and LM4562 devices, and were unable to conclusively measure one as better than
the other. We expect that we were measuring the actual ADC and
DAC performance. Given that the LM4562 costs more than the
NE5532 and consumes more power there seemed to be no good
reason to use them.
We have also used LM833 op amps; they work too, but not as
plies and grounding to something of an
extreme as we aim to deliver solid ADC
and DAC performance, at the parts-permillion level. In particular, any noise
on the +5VA rail is a very bad thing, and
we want the +5VL and ±9V rails to be
clean of noise and clocking artefacts.
The first version of this unit used a
toroidal transformer mounted on the
opposite side of the case from the sensitive analog parts. It even included a
copper shorting ring to reduce radiated noise. Even so, we could still see
the 50Hz leaking into the plots down
around the -110 to -130dB levels.
well; they can’t drive as low impedances as NE5532s, so require
more of a distortion/noise tradeoff.
If you have a favourite op amp you want to use, we recommend
you install high quality machined sockets, as desoldering op amps
from a double-sided PCB generally kills the op amp, and may damage the PCB. Suitable sockets are the Altronics P0530. Things you
would need to check if you do this include oscillation, ringing and
leakage of HF products from the DAC to the output.
We also suspect that you will, in the best case, get equivalent
performance, and quite possibly worse. If you want to get the rated performance, it’s best to stick with the devices that we tested!
So we changed it to run off a single
+12V DC plugpack. It uses two LM2575
buck regulators (REG1 & REG2) to generate a +6.5V DC rail and -12V DC rail.
This choice might raise a few eyebrows
as switchmode converters are not famous for low levels of radiation.
And you may wonder how the same
chip is used to generate both positive
and negative rails.
Let’s start with that negative rail.
In essence, we are turning REG2 on
its head; its positive output connects
to GND (after the LC filter), while its
GND pin is actually ‘floating’ on the
Fig.15: IC9 converts the digital audio signals from the ASRC stage to
balanced analog outputs at pin pairs 19/20 and 23/24. These are then
filtered to remove digital artefacts and converted to single-ended audio,
to be fed to RCA output sockets CON7a & CON7b.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
negative rail! It may seem strange, but
if you analyse the circuit carefully, you
will see that this will work.
But there are a few things you need to
be aware of when using a buck regulator
this way. On startup, it tends to draw
a lot of current for a short period. The
Texas Instruments data sheet warns of
this, and they were right to! The peak
startup current is about 2A, so be sure
to use the recommended plugpack, or
check that yours works OK.
Altronics and Jaycar also sell the
LM2576, which is a beefier version of
the LM2575. This draws closer to 4.5A
on startup. It works, but watch that
startup current.
So how does this work? Here’s a
brief explanation: REG2 ‘tries’ to keep
the feedback voltage at pin 4 about
1.25V above its ground pin, pin 3. As
the -12V rail is initially at 0V, so is pin
4, so the output switches on hard. This
means that current can pass from the
12V input, through inductor L3 and
to ground.
The regulator switches its output in
pulses at about 50kHz. When it switches off, the inductor’s magnetic field
causes current to continue to flow. This
can no longer come from the LM2575,
so the voltage at pin 2 drops and the
current flows from the negative pin of
the output capacitor, through D3. As
a result, the voltage across the output
capacitor increases, meaning its negative end gets more negative.
This cycle continues, with the capacitor charging further, resulting in
the ground pin falling negative relative
to the output. As the voltage across the
feedback divider is increasing, the voltage at feedback pin 4 relative to pin 3
also increases. Eventually, the capacitor
is charged to 12V, and the ground pin is
now 12V below the feedback pin. Pin
4 is then at around -10.75V, ie, 1.25V
above pin 3.
The regulator then operates normally,
September 2020 93
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SUPERCODEC (USB SOUND CARD)
Fig.16: the power supply circuitry efficiently produces five very clean supply rails from the possibly noisy 12V DC input.
These are ±9V for the op amps, +5V for the ADC and DAC chips, +3.3V for the digital section of the DAC chip and the two
ASRC chips (IC6 & IC7) plus the isolator (IC12) and +2.5V for DC-biasing the analog signals fed to the ADC. The ADC also
has a local regulator (REG5) to produce its 3.3V digital rail from the +5V rail, as it was easier to lay out the board that way.
varying its mark to space ratio to keep
this voltage as required. The regulator
is essentially driving a short-circuit at
startup, hence the fairly impressive but
brief initial current demand.
To keep radiated noise from the
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switchmode supplies low, we have
been rather careful with the layout,
making sure current loops are small.
We have also used low-ESR capacitors throughout, as well as oversized
toroidal inductors. This contains the
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magnetic field inside the inductors and
avoids saturation, which would lead to
increased radiation.
The switchmode supplies are also located as far from the low-level analog
electronics as we can manage. On our
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Tweaking the SuperCodec’s performance
Phil Prosser delivered a prototype to us with excellent performance.
But upon measuring it, we detected an anomaly. The DAC
THD+N figure increased for test frequencies below 200Hz, rising from 0.00054% at 1kHz to around 0.00085% at 20Hz.
This was not what we expected, as performance usually improves as the test signal frequency drops.
At first, we suspected that the 22µF bipolar output coupling
capacitors could be the culprits, as rising distortion with decreasing frequency is a signature of coupling capacitor induced
distortion. However, replacing these with 100µF high-quality
units (which you may have noticed in our photos) yielded no
improvement.
This led us to suspect that the low-frequency signal was
modulating a voltage rail, so we turned our attention to the capacitors surrounding the CS4398 DAC, IC9.
The most critical capacitors are the electrolytic filter capacitor on pin 26, VQ, which stabilises the half supply rail (quiescent output voltage, hence VQ); the 33µF filter capacitor at pin
17 (VREF), which also helps to smooth the VA (analog supply
voltage) 5V rail that it’s connected to; and the electrolytic catest plots, there is a tiny bit of noise
visible around the 50kHz operating frequency, but it’s so low that it doesn’t
matter. Also, that’s above the range of
our hearing, a fact that is no coincidence.
We have used a large output capacitor of 2200µF to minimise noise. Then
we have added a 47µH/100µF LC lowpass filter to reduce noise at the output further.
At this point, the ripple on the supply rail is only a few millivolts.
The +6.5V supply is provided by a
conventional implementation of a buck
regulator, using REG1. Again, we have
put in a 2200µF filter capacitor and
47µH/100µF post regulator filter. This
also uses low-ESR capacitors.
Why 6.5V? One problem you find
with high-speed logic is that it can draw
a fair current from low voltage rails. We
do not want to use a linear regulator to
generate a 2.5V or 3.3V rail that might
have to deliver 100-200mA. We would
need to dissipate 1.7W (12V – 3.3V) x
0.2A. This is possible, but is a real nuisance to dissipate in a small enclosure.
So instead, we are using switchmode regulators to generate +6.5V and
-12V rails, and then feeding these into
four linear regulators to produce very
clean +5V, +3.3V, +2.5V, +9V and -9V
supplies for the ICs. The input of each
linear regulator is fed through a ferrite bead, to minimise the chance of
any RF type signals passing through
the regulator.
The +12V and -12V ‘noisy’ rails
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pacitor at pin 15 (FILT+). The capacitor from pin 26 to ground
was originally 3.3µF. After soldering a 47µF capacitor across
it, we re-tested the unit and found two things.
One, it took a lot longer to reach normal operating conditions
(presumably the larger capacitor takes longer to charge). And
two, while the THD+N figures did drop around 25% at lower
frequencies (and a bit across the board), there was still a rise
in distortion below 200Hz.
Adding a 470µF capacitor from pin 17 (VREF) to ground did
nothing, indicating that this rail was sufficiently noise-free. But
moving that capacitor to go from pin 15 (FILT+) to ground,
which originally had a 100µF in parallel with the 100nF, totally
eliminated the rise in distortion at lower frequencies and also
slightly lowered distortion across the board.
So we decided to compromise with the VQ filter capacitor at
10µF; higher than the original 3.3µF for improved overall performance, but not so high that the unit takes ages to stabilise
when powered on.
And we definitely upgraded the 100µF capacitor at the FILT+
pin to a high-quality 470µF unit, which just fits, as this was the
‘cherry on top’ in terms of obtaining the ultimate performance.
are regulated to +9V and -9V using
LM317 and LM337 adjustable regulators. These have especially good ripple and noise rejection. The ±9V rails
power the op amps for the ADC and
DAC sections. Note that there is a further RC filter in the ADC and DAC domains, formed by 10Ω resistors and
47µF capacitors, to ensure isolation between the ADC and DAC supply rails.
A low-dropout AZ1117H regulator is
used to generate the +5V VA rail. This
is a low-noise rail, and if you analyse
the PCB, you will find that it is routed away from the digital section. The
DVDD +3.3V and VD +2.5V rails are
for digital purposes, and use ordinary
old LM317 devices.
PCB layout trick
We’ll be presenting the PCB design
next month, along with the PCB assembly, testing and wiring instructions.
But there are a few performance-related things to consider about the PCB,
which we’ll briefly mention before
signing off.
With the power supply at the bottom,
all the digital signals and power supplies run up the left-hand side of the
board, and the low noise and analog
signals up the right-hand side. This is
intentional, to maintain isolation between these domains.
The switchmode section that generates the -12V and -6.5V rails has a
separate ground plane. At the output
of this are the final 47µH/100µF filters.
After that, there is a wire jumper from
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the ‘noisy ground’ at the input to the
larger ground plane for the linear regulators. The aim here is to avoid allowing
currents in the ‘noisy ground’ injecting
noise into the remainder of the circuit.
There is also a vertical cut on the lefthand side of the ground plane which
isolates the digital section from the
power supplies. This ensures that the
digital circuitry is operating in a ground
plane largely separated from the analog
section, with the ‘connection’ being
around the DVDD +3.3V output.
The aim is to avoid the digital circuitry injecting noise onto the analog
ground plane.
There is a ground plane across almost the entirety of the top of the board
(bottom under the digital section), and
ground fills everywhere practical.
So here we have a range of low-noise,
carefully isolated power supplies that
are distributed in a manner to minimise
contamination of the analog parts with
any switching or digital noise.
SC
Next month . . .
Once again, unfortunately, we have run
out of space. In the third and final article
next month we’ll have all the construction details, plus the test procedures after
each stage of construction, to ensure that
everything is working correctly before
you proceed to the next step.
We’ll then cover a final set of tests;
how to download, install and set up the
USB drivers, and some useful information on using the finished product.
September 2020 95
Vintage Radio
US
US Marine
Marine Corps
Corps TBY-8
TBY-8 Squad
Squad Radio
Radio
By Ian Batty
Military equipment can be state-of-the-art, or
just plain ancient. This radio is a bit of both;
it’s seemingly an obsolete design at the time
it was fielded, but there are good reasons for
the choices made, and it turns out to be an
outstanding performer. It’s also a bit different
from your usual vintage radio fare.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
Consider the US Air Force, which
fields some of the latest and greatest aviation technology, like the F-35
Lightning II multi-role stealth fighter,
and some positively ancient technology, like the B-52 Stratofortress. Some
B-52s still in service today were built
in the early 1960s!
The RAAF is not much different;
they also field the thoroughly modern
F-35 alongside the positively ancient
C-130 Hercules, which first took flight
in 1956, over 60 years ago.
The common thread here is fitness
for purpose. It takes billions of dollars
and decades to design new military
equipment, so if the old equipment
does the job, and can be kept going,
it’s often the way to go.
Consider the modulated oscillator
transmitter and the super-regenerative
receiver. These were well-proven if
somewhat ‘old hat’ even in the 1930s.
That’s when the United States Navy
contracted for a new radio set. It was
to be “ultra-portable” for use by Marines on foot, to operate well above the
commonly-used lower frequencies of
the HF band, and to offer Wireless Telegraphy (W/T) for Morse code transmission and Radio Telephony (R/T)
for voice transmission.
It’s part of the T (transmitters) series, B (portable) subseries, letter Y
in order of registration. This class of
equipment is now known as a squad
radio. As well as being carried on
foot, TBYs were also commonly used
as ship-to-ship links in convoys and
battle groups.
The TBY was famously used by
specially-recruited Navajo-speaking
“Codetalkers”, as the Navajo language
had never been documented. Its purely oral tradition, unusual syntax and
highly inflected, tonal pronunciation
made it unlikely that, even if intercepted, any “codetalked” message could
ever be decrypted. It’s one of the few
examples of “clear speech” being anything but clear to the enemy.
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This was the inspiration for the 2002
movie “Windtalkers”.
Technical details
Condensed Specifications
The full height of the antenna
is approximately 9ft.
Squad radios commonly use battery
or generator power, since they need
to be able to go where the troops do.
As most use directly-heated valves,
cathode biasing for each stage is impractical.
The most common designs use multi-voltage batteries that include the
bias supply. It’s not unusual to see one
or two filament and HT supplies along
with the negative bias supply.
The TBY uses this design, with 1.5V
and 3V LT rails, 150V HT and a -7.5V
bias battery. Its full circuit is shown
in Fig.1.
Multi-channel transceiver designs
would either use a bank of quartz
crystals (rare, bulky and expensive in
the 1930s), with one per channel, or
a much simpler Variable Frequency
Oscillator (VFO) design.
If the transmitter were crystal controlled, it would have been possible
to use the same crystal for receive and
transmit (with a bit of magic between),
but it would still have been an intricate design. With no crystal control in
the transmitter, however, the receiver
would have to be continuously-tuned.
The TBY uses a modulated oscillator transmitter, which has the great advantage of simplicity; it only requires
one RF stage.
But that simple design leads to frequency instability, producing frequency modulation along with the intended
amplitude modulation (AM).
For receiver performance, nothing could beat Edwin Armstrong’s
super-regenerative design in its day,
and that’s still true today. So long as
a valve can be made to oscillate, it can
be used as a super-regenerative demodulator, right up to its maximum operating frequency.
While the super-regenerator was
good enough in the 1930s, even ham
radio operators were abandoning it by
the 1950s, gradually pushing the design to higher and higher VHF/UHF
bands until finally giving up on it.
Its versatility and simplicity, though,
did see the use of super-regenerating
klystrons in simple radar receivers. If
it can oscillate, it can super-regenerate.
So we have two mostly deprecated systems from the late 1930s/early
1940s: an unstable, messy modulation
transmitter and a primitive, cranky
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Operating frequency: 28~80MHz in
four bands; 131 channels at 400kHz
spacing.
Transmission/reception: A2 (tonemodulated continuous wave – MCW),
A3 (AM – double-sideband full carrier – R/T).
Transmit power/operating range:
MCW 0.75W, R/T 0.5W. Range up to
3 miles (~5km).
Receiver sensitivity: 5µV on bands
1, 2 and 3; better than 15µV on band
4, all for 1mW output at 6dB SNR.
Power supply and duration: combined battery, 1.5V “A” supply (RF
section), 3V “A” supply (audio section),
150V “B” supply, -7.5V “C” supply. 25
hours operation when new, minimum
of 15 hours.
Versions: TBY-1 and -2 used fixed antenna mounts of Westinghouse manufacture. TBY-3 not issued. TBY-4 to
-8 featured rotatable antenna mount
and SO-239 socket for antennas other than the nine-section rod, Colonial
Radio manufacture.
Metering: indicating meter switchable
to RF filament voltage, audio filament
voltage, transmitter anode current
(loading) indications. Operator-useable rheostats to control audio and RF
valve filament voltages.
Interfaces: R/T provision for two
headsets, Morse key for MCW operation.
Channel selection: channels set
according to the attached individual
calibration chart. Able to be set accurately on any channel an exact multiple of 5MHz. On any other channel,
dependent on equipment tuning chart
and antenna coupling. One report
shows transmitter frequency varying
by as much as 100kHz with coupling
adjustment.
Accessories: Carbon microphone/
dynamic earphones combination,
Morse key, dry battery, ten-section rod
antenna, 4V accumulator and vibrator power pack, 115V DC/AC mains
power pack, canvas carry backpack,
72.5MHz fixed ground plane antenna,
timber transit case.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 97
receiver. Given the poor opinion most
authors have of this combination, I
want to find out just how bad (or good!)
they can be.
The TBY squad radio
The TBY (version 1 released in
1938) is a seven-valve, battery-powered squad radio transceiver which
can be carried by one person in a backpack. It provides four switched, manually-tuned bands from 28~80MHz
and uses a nine-section whip antenna whose length is adjusted (by add-
ing or removing sections) to always be
roughly one quarter-wavelength at the
chosen operating frequency.
Completely assembled, the antenna
just tops 2.6m! (The red ribbon at the
top is not recommended for combat
conditions).
Tuning is indicated by graduated
wheels behind viewing windows. No
frequency calibration is provided; operators use reference charts attached
to the top cover to select any one of
131 operating channels at 400kHz
spacings.
The internal 5MHz crystal calibrator’s “marker” signals allow receiver
and transmitter calibration at intervals
of 12-½ channels.
I acquired this one in the 60s at ACE
Radio, a disposals company long gone.
I was actually not sure what it was,
but its design was too good to pass up.
Transmitter circuit
The transmitter uses Acorn 958A
valves (V3 and V4) in a push-pull
Hartley circuit. Unlike Class-B audio circuits, this operates in Class-C,
Fig.1: circuit diagram for the TBY-8 radio. There is no capacitor C23 shown (but there is a C24), and C23 does not appear
in the parts list. Presumably, this was a late change during manufacturing, or a change from a previous version.
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where the conduction angle is considerably less than 180°, and the control
grids are driven sufficiently positive
to rectify and create grid current during part of the operating cycle.
You’d expect such a brief conduction cycle to create massive distortion, and it does. Class-C can only
work with tuned loads (“tank” circuits) that ‘force’ the output to form
a sinewave. You can think of the
tank circuit as acting like a flywheel,
pushed along by anode current pulses; or, as a conventional tuned circuit that only responds to the desired
frequency, attenuating the ‘crossover
distortion’ harmonics.
Class-C operation can give efficiencies exceeding 70%. Simply put, during conduction, the valve operates in
heavy saturation with little voltage
drop across it and little power wastage. This high efficiency is a boon in
battery-powered sets, but it also allows
valves to give substantial outputs exceeding three times their anode dissipation limits.
The basic Hartley circuit uses a
tapped inductor to provide feedback.
The TBY’s push-pull transmitter’s anode tuned circuit uses centre-tapped
coils to both combine valve currents
and provide ‘cross-connected’ feedback.
Feedback is provided by 50pF capacitors C15/C16 to the grids of V3/V4,
with centre-tapped choke L10 isolating the grids from the RF ground provided by 500pF capacitor C17, which
bypasses 5kW grid bias resistor R4.
The transmit stage is matched to the
antenna via the secondary of the selected tank coil, in combination with
matching variable capacitor C13. In
operation, meter M1 is switched to
the Plate Current position, and C13
adjusted for a centre reading on M1.
The intimate coupling between oscillator and antenna makes the TBY’s frequency stability vulnerable to antenna
length and capacitive effects between
the antenna and other objects.
For R/T (voice) transmission, modulation begins with the carbon microphone, powered from the -7.5V bias
supply. The microphone current is
stepped up by transformer T2 to drive
V7, a 1E7 dual pentode.
T2’s grid drive to V7 is in anti-phase,
so the modulation amplifier works in
Class-B push-pull mode, with T3 combining the anode currents of V3 and
coupling modulation (via its secondsiliconchip.com.au
ary) to the transmitter. V7 receives the
full -7.5V grid bias via the driver winding (secondary) of T2.
For Morse transition, pushbutton
key S101 switches the tertiary winding of T1 to ground, as well as activating transmit/receive relay K1 and
keying the transmitter. Grounding T1’s
tertiary activates V6’s feedback loop
(C25/R12/R13), which is inactive until
pin 5 on T1 is connected to ground. V6
oscillates at around 500Hz, feeding the
tone to modulator V7, which in turn
modulates the transmitter.
Receiver circuitry
The receiver begins with 959 Acorn
pentode V1, operating as a commoncathode RF amplifier. This provides
the usual gain and selectivity, but also
helps reduce radiation from the oscillating demodulator.
Without adequate demodulator isolation, this set would radiate enough
energy in receive mode to allow hostile interception and direction-finding.
It’s the military version of a flashing
“kick me” sign on your back.
The antenna circuit uses one of four
turret-switched coils (L1-3 & L15),
with its secondary tuned by the C1
section of the receiver’s ganged tuning
capacitor. Antenna trimmer C2 compensates for antenna capacitance and/
or nearby objects. The amplifier gets
grid bias from the bias battery via the
antenna coil secondary, from resistive
divider R21/R22.
V1’s anode load, the primary of L4-6
Australia’s electronics magazine
The side of the TBY radio showing
where the antenna mount is attached.
& L16, couples to its tuned secondary.
This secondary forms the Hartley oscillator circuit for V2, the super-regenerative demodulator.
The super-regenerator, one of Edwin
Armstrong’s four industry-defining patents (regeneration, super-regeneration,
the superhet and frequency modulation) achieves astounding sensitivity.
How does a single-stage voltage gain
approaching a million sound?
Heavy feedback, aided by 1MW
grid bias resistor R2’s return to V2’s
positive anode connection puts V2
into powerful oscillation. The rectified grid current develops a negative
voltage across 100pF coupling capacitor C7, counteracting the positive
September 2020 99
voltage that would otherwise be present on the grid.
This counteraction continues until
the negative bias is so strong that the
valve cuts off. With no oscillation to
maintain it, the cut-off bias across C7
will be discharged according to the
time constant of grid resistor R2, coupling capacitor C7 and the positive
supply voltage.
As the cut-off bias leaks away, V2
will come back into conduction and
will again oscillate, re-initiating negative bias across C7.
This cycle will repeat at the quenching frequency (22~40kHz in the TBY,
depending on the Regen setting). I’ll
use 30kHz as my example.
You might expect this to simply
produce a self-modulated RF output.
Indeed, such ‘squegging’ oscillators
were used in ultra-simple lifeboat
transmitters.
But the average anode current of this
circuit is very noisy. The quenching
frequency exhibits a large amount of
phase noise (jitter). It’s related to the
conditions at the instant when oscillation is re-initiated. As this exact instant is strongly influenced by valve
noise, the average anode current which
forms the quench frequency is also
noisy as shown in Fig.2.
So far, all we have is either a jittery
oscillator or a circuit greatly magnifying its own inherent noise. But what
if an external, unmodulated signal is
fed to the super-regenerator?
It will ‘lock’ to the incoming signal
and, although the quench frequency
will remain at around 30kHz, it will
now be very stable. Each new burst
of oscillation will be initiated as the
incoming signal brings the grid out of
cut-off and into active operation, rather than by valve noise.
Fig.3 shows that, if the anode current jitter is quieted, the anode current assumes a constant, noiseless
DC value.
Fig.2
100
Silicon Chip
The left-hand side of the TBY radio showing the
transmitter section. You can also see one of the
958 Acorn valves (V4) at upper left.
Applied signal synchronisation
Now, if we supply a modulated signal, the initiation of each oscillatory
period is determined by the varying
instantaneous input signal amplitude. The incoming modulated signal
will influence the quench frequency’s
phase. The simplest modern paradigm is that of pulse-width modulation (PWM).
But PWM is, in context, a ‘modern’
concept, postdating Armstrong’s invention by over thirty years. It’s why
you’ll find incomplete, confusing and
elaborate descriptions of the super-regen, including its “strong AVC action”.
Fig.4 shows how the modulated input signal is translated into an audiovarying anode current that is amplified and delivered to the headphones.
The dotted line is a notional bias voltage that the input signal’s amplitude
must exceed to provoke oscillation
as the circuit’s highly negative bias
‘leaks off’.
Eagle-eyed readers may interpret the
input signal’s modulation as suffering
from non-linearity. You’d be correct,
but the illustration does show that the
super-regen can successfully demodulate an AM signal. More on this later.
The demodulator circuit connects
Fig.3
Fig.4
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
To reduce lead inductance, conventional basing methods were eliminated, and the shortest possible connections made to the external circuit.
RCA’s all-glass Acorn valves (named
for their envelope shape) set the stage
for the next thirty years of valve design:
baseless all-glass construction, connecting pins penetrating the envelope,
and electrode connections welded directly to the connecting pins.
The Acorn base demanded a spacehogging peripheral socket, so the final
B7G development had the pins exit
the envelope in a circle around a glass
button base, with the socket not much
larger than the valve’s envelope.
How good is it?
The right-hand side of the TBY-8 which showcases
the receiver section.
to the supply via the primary of audio transformer T1 and 500kW potentiometer R8, the regeneration control.
In operation, R8 is adjusted so that
the receiver just comes into reliable
super-regeneration. That gives maximum sensitivity.
T1’s secondary feeds audio to 500kW
volume control pot R7, and then to
preamplifier valve V6. Like V7, this
gets a -7.5V grid bias from the battery.
V6’s anode drives output valve V7 via
audio transformer T2.
Transmit/receive switching is managed by relay K1, which responds to
the press-to-talk (PTT) switch on the
microphone. K1 gets current from the
+3V filament supply.
Transmit/receive changeover is
managed by switching filament power (K1d). HT to the transmitter is also
switched (K1e), as early versions of
the 968A would continue to oscillate
with no filament power applied – anode current alone was sufficient to
sustain emission.
The circuit contains a lot of RF bypassing not generally seen in AM radios. This is needed for predictable
siliconchip.com.au
operation in the low VHF band, and
– especially in the receiver – to reduce
possible radiation from the oscillating
demodulator.
Acorn valves
The 1930s saw an explosion of research into higher and higher radio
frequencies. Governments, along with
commercial and scientific organisations, joined the race to exploit the
revolution.
But experimenters quickly discovered the thermionic valve’s limitations. Even ‘modern’ octal-based
types, universally preferred for MF
(medium frequencies) to low VHF
(very high frequencies), struggled to
work much past 100MHz.
This was due to three principal
problems: transit time from cathode to
anode, internal capacitance, and lead
inductances. Much smaller constructions could reduce transit time and
capacitances, and lead inductances
by much shorter leads. This was pretty simple to achieve; just reduce the
valve’s elements down to the limits of
hand assembly.
Australia’s electronics magazine
I get 1mW in 600W output (775mV)
from a 30%-modulated 3µV signal.
Given that such a signal carries around
1µV of modulated audio, this set has
a voltage gain of about 775,000 from
the antenna to headphones. Beat that!
In decibels, 1µV into 50W is around
2 × 10-14 watts. We have one milliwatt
output, making the power gain around
113dB. Not bad for just four valves.
For the demodulator itself, I get
around 70mV of audio for a measured
input of 3µV (implying 1µV of audio
modulation), so the demodulator voltage gain is about 70,000.
Like I wrote earlier, in its day, nothing gave more gain than the super-regen, and nothing can today. Note that
I’m not quoting a dB figure for the demodulator, as I can’t state the demodulator’s input and output impedances, and dBs should only be calculated
with known impedances.
A close-up of a 955 Acorn triode
valve. Source: https://en.wikipedia.
org/wiki/File:955ACORN.jpg
September 2020 101
I’m guessing this set has not been
used since it was decommissioned, so
I wondered how well it had retained
its calibration. So I set my HP signal
generator to Channel 1 (28MHz) and
tuned it in. It came in at 27.85MHz,
a calibration error of around 0.5%.
That’s excellent long-term stability.
Following the instructions, its internal calibrator allowed me to set Channel 6 (30MHz) to correct this error to
within 6kHz. That isn’t bad for a calibrator that’s over 70 years old, with no
temperature control or adjustment. It
sits at 5.000750 MHz, an accuracy of
150 parts per million, and certainly
adequate for the application.
The receiver still meets specifications, with a sensitivity of 3µV bettering the quoted 5µV for a signal-to-noise
ratio (SNR) of 6dB on Bands 1~3, and
10µV or better on Band 4. The receiver
-3dB bandwidth varies from ±100kHz
at 28MHz to ±200kHz at 80MHz. For
-60dB, it’s ±500kHz and 700kHz respectively.
That bandwidth sounds woeful
compared to a superhet, but remember that superhet designers can specify an IF bandwidth as low as a few
102
Silicon Chip
kilohertz, regardless of the incoming
signal frequency. Essentially a TRF
design, the super-regen must rely on
high-Q RF coils to give usefully narrow bandwidths.
Since Q = F ÷ df, where Q is the quality factor, F the operating frequency
and df the -3dB bandwidth, at 28MHz
Q = 140 and at 80MHz, it’s 200. That’s
very good for just two tuned circuits,
one of which is heavily loaded by the
oscillating demodulator. Although the
RF amp’s gain is small, its lack of loading allows the antenna circuit to contribute most of the circuit’s selectivity.
Signal output is determined by the
maximum possible change in anode
current pulse width, and it reaches
this limit at quite low signal levels.
In this way, it’s similar to an FM receiver’s limiter.
Starting with a 3µV signal at 28MHz,
it needed around 200mV to get a 3dB
audio output increase, a range of more
than 90dB. For the accepted 20dB
SNR, it needed over 10µV, and never
achieved much better.
You may know of FM’s capture effect, where a signal that’s only a few
times stronger than another will ‘blanAustralia’s electronics magazine
ket’ the weaker signal. The TBY exhibits significant capture effect with a signal ratio of three times or more. It does
produce heterodyning ‘birdies’ if there
is any large frequency difference, and
this seems to be due to interaction with
the 30kHz quench frequency.
The circuit is naturally noisy and
exhibits poor linearity. A 25µV signal
(30% modulation at 400Hz) produced
15% total harmonic distortion (THD).
Audio response from the antenna to
headphones of 160~600Hz, as determined by the demodulator; from the
primary of T1 to the headphones it’s
160~6500Hz. For the microphone input, it exceeds 80Hz to 10kHz.
It is capable of demodulating FM,
but needs a stronger signal to exploit
slope demodulation: at 28MHz, a 25µV
signal with ±60kHz deviation produced 1mW output. So while it would
receive FM broadcasts with some rebuilding of the Band 4 coils, given the
audio top end of under 1kHz you’d be
pretty disappointed with the results.
Transmitter output exceeded the
specifications on all bands, delivering
upwards of 1W on some frequencies.
And yes, it does produce substantial
siliconchip.com.au
frequency modulation. Fig.5 shows the
carrier and many side frequencies. A
pure amplitude-modulated signal will
produce the carrier and only two side
frequencies: upper and lower. Multiple side frequencies are a frequency
modulation signature.
Although the TBY’s receiver will
demodulate an FM signal, this isn’t
much help in demodulating the FMrich signal from another TBY, as you
would have to detune your own set to
go into slope demodulation with the
penalty of lower sensitivity.
I was concerned about demodulator radiation, but it appears well-con-
Fig.5: shown in greyscale for clarity.
siliconchip.com.au
trolled. I tried an FM Walkman that
tunes down to 76MHz, and could just
pick up the radiation with the two sets
next to each other.
The demodulator’s anode voltage
varies with the Regen setting, and the
circuit shows typical values.
The set under test was powered by
an inverter bought off eBay. It works
well, but does give a high bias output,
as shown in the circuit readings.
Usability
For equipment designed to be used
under the extreme conditions of warfare, the TBY’s simplicity of operation
is excellent.
Once tuned, all one needs to do
is listen or talk, for up to 25 hours.
But re-tuning is another matter. Band
changing is simple, but actual channel
tuning is difficult to the point of being
almost impossible. The tuning knobs
are small and difficult to operate, and
the dials can only be read by looking
directly into the windows.
Perhaps the original luminous markings would have helped, however, in
their now-degraded state they are visible but not readily legible.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Originally-described as “radio-active”, a Geiger counter registered emissions at the lower end of concern.
References
• Instruction book for Navy Model
TBY-8 Ultra-Portable Very High Frequency Transmitting-Receiving Equipment, 1943, Colonial Radio Corporation, Buffalo NY
• Catalog for the models TBY, TBY1 & 2: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3x
• VMARS has heaps of military
manuals, including the TBY-8, at
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3u
• An extensive description of the
radio: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab3v
• Complete description and analysis of super-regeneration: Microwave
Receivers, Van Voorhis, S. N. Ed.,
McGraw-Hill, 1948, Chapter 20, Superregenerative Receivers, Hall, G. O.
pp 545-578. (MIT Rad. Lab. Vol 23)
• Armstrong’s patent, US1424065:
https://patents.google.com/patent/
US1424065A
• Armstrong’s paper: Some Recent
Developments Of Regenerative Circuits, Armstrong, E.H. siliconchip.
com.au/link/ab3w
SC
September 2020 103
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EFUSE
SPRING REVERB
6GHz+ 1000:1 PRESCALER
MICROBRIDGE
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V2
10-OCTAVE STEREO GRAPHIC EQUALISER
↳ FRONT PANEL
↳ CASE PIECES
RAPIDBRAKE
DELUXE EFUSE
↳ UB1 LID
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3-WAY ADJUSTABLE ACTIVE CROSSOVER
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$.00
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$15.00
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$7.50
$5.00
$17.50
$5.00
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$5.00
↳ DRIVER PCB
iCESTICK VGA ADAPTOR
UHF DATA REPEATER
AMPLIFIER BRIDGE ADAPTOR
3.5-INCH LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
DSP CROSSOVER (ALL PCBs – TWO DACs)
↳ ADC PCB
↳ DAC PCB
↳ CPU PCB
↳ PSU PCB
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
↳ CASE PIECES (MATTE BLACK)
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL PCB
↳ MOSFET PCB (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER PCB
↳ HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
HIGH RESOLUTION AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
SUPER-9 FM RADIO PCB SET
↳ CASE PIECES & DIAL
TINY LED XMAS TREE (GREEN/RED/WHITE)
HIGH POWER LINEAR BENCH SUPPLY
↳ HEATSINK SPACER (BLACK)
DIGITAL PANEL METER / USB DISPLAY
↳ ACRYLIC BEZEL (BLACK)
UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
BOOKSHELF SPEAKER PASSIVE CROSSOVER
↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
ARDUINO DCC BASE STATION
NUTUBE VALVE PREAMPLIFIER
TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
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SC5023
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$5.00
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$40.00
$7.50
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$2.50
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$7.50
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
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$5.00
$5.00
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$2.50
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$25.00
$2.50
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$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$20.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$5.00
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
04105201
04105202
08110201
01110201
01110202
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$1.50
NEW PCBs
We also sell an A2 Reactance Wallchart, RTV&H DVD, Vintage Radio DVD plus various books at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Colour Maximite 2
complete kit wanted
I am interested in buying a kit for
the Colour Maximite 2 (July & August
2020; siliconchip.com.au/Series/348),
but I want one with as many of the
optional parts as possible, especially the labelled front and rear panels
with cut-outs. Do you know who can
supply such a kit? (A. F., Salamander
Bay, NSW)
• We aren’t sure exactly what is in
the kits from other suppliers. You can
check their websites via the links in
the parts list on page 38 of the July
2020 issue.
Our Cat SC5508 kit (siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/20/5508) comes with
pretty much everything you need except the plastic case, including the
front and rear panels with white labels
and pre-cut holes. The reason we don’t
include the case is that you can easily
get it from Jaycar or Altronics at a price
that would be tough for us to match.
The only other parts we don’t include are the infrared receiver and
DS18B20 temperature sensor.
The IR receiver is also available
from Jaycar (Cat ZD1952) or Altronics
(Cat Z1611A). If you want the exact
TSOP4838 part specified by Geoff Graham, you would have to go somewhere
else like element14 (Cat 491319001),
but we believe all of these parts are
suitable.
As for the DS18B20, Altronics has
it (Cat Z7280), as does element14 (Cat
2515553). Jaycar has the XC3700 module with a DS18B20 sensor onboard;
you should be able to solder that to
the CMM2 PCB, or else desolder the
DS18B20 sensor from it and transplant
it into the CMM2.
Substituting Reflow
Oven Controller reg.
I am gathering the parts list for the
Reflow Oven Controller (April & May
2020; siliconchip.com.au/Series/343),
and when I went into Altronics and
searched for the LD1117V adjustable
106
Silicon Chip
voltage regulator, I was directed to
the “LD1117V33 - 3.3V 800mA TO220 Low Drop Out Voltage Regulator”
(Cat Z2695).
I assume I can use this instead by replacing the 560W resistor with a 0W resistor and omitting the 10µF capacitor
and 330W resistor. (R. S., Huntly, Vic)
• Yes, that should work.
Interfacing JRMI
with DCC Controller
I built the Arduino DCC Decoder Programmer (October 2018; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11261) & Arduino DCC
Controller (January 2020; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/12220); both stacked
on an Arduino Uno. I have this connected to the rail inputs of a DCC Concepts Zen Black Decoder Z218. I am
using a 15V DC power pack without
MOD1 & JP1 is in the “VIN” position.
After loading the “DCC_Single_
Loco_Control.ino” sketch, I can turn on
the power on and off (P/p), run the motor both forwards or backward and turn
the lights on and off (A/a), both front
and rear as per the motor direction.
I then loaded the DCC++ Base Station sketch (“DCCpp_Uno.ino”) and
applied the advised settings and restarts as per page 50 in the January
2020 issue. However, on running
DecoderPro (V4.20), I cannot get the
JRMI red power button to change to
green.
I’ve tried installing “new loco” (using the DCC Concepts Zen Z218) without any response, although this is not
suggested in the article.
Can you help? (K. R., Arundel, Qld)
• It seems that you are using a newer
version of JMRI (DecoderPro) than we
did. We found that setting up DecoderPro was fiddly; the required settings
were discovered by trial and error.
As the hardware works fine with our
test sketch, it sounds like a software
problem.
Since our projects are intended
to replace the DCC++ hardware, the
DCC++ site might have some information on the settings required to get the
Australia’s electronics magazine
software to talk to our hardware. See
github.com/DccPlusPlus/BaseStation/
wiki/What-is-DCC--Plus-Plus
Arduino compilation
warnings
I have finally built the Diode Curve
Plotter (March 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11447), and after uploading the sketch, I was presented with
an all-white screen. During the compilation process, I get multiple warnings: “warning: ISO C++ forbids converting a string constant to ‘char*’
[-Wwrite-strings]” (amongst others).
Are these warnings of concern? (P. W.,
Perth, WA)
• The message at the end of the list of
warnings you supplied reads:
Sketch uses 56986 bytes (22%)
of program storage space.
Maximum is 253952 bytes.
Global variables use 1683
bytes (20%) of dynamic
memory, leaving 6509 bytes
for local variables.
Maximum is 8192 bytes.
This means that the compilation
has completed successfully. None of
these warnings affect the initialisation
of the display, so we don’t think they
are your problem.
The Arduino language takes a few
shortcuts, so some warnings are not
unusual. You wouldn’t usually see
them unless you have them turned on,
though, which must be done manually.
Mini SMD steam
whistle wanted
Thank you for the Steam Train
Whistle project (September 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11226). I
built one for a friend, for his new layout. We were delighted with the result,
especially the doppler effect.
Is it feasible to produce a PCB using
SMD components so it can be mounted
in a train? With some rail pickups and
a 12V-to-5V converter, the unit could
be triggered by DCC or a track sensiliconchip.com.au
sor on a DC layout. A train-mounted
unit could also generate a chuff-chuff
sound using the white noise generator and a speed sensor from the line
voltage or the DCC decoder. (R. M.,
Paynesville, Vic)
• Thanks for your comments on the
Steam Train Whistle. A smaller surface-mount version would be possible.
We may do this at some point, depending on other commitments.
HDMI Pattern
Generator wanted
How about an HDMI pattern generator project? It would be a handy tool
for troubleshooting all sorts of video
equipment. It could be based on the
Raspberry Pi or similar device. Including an audio tone would be helpful
too. (J. O. S., Revesby, NSW)
• It’s quite simple to turn a Raspberry
Pi into an HDMI pattern generator, and
it seems that others have beaten us to
the punch. For example, see github.
com/LeipeLeon/PiPatternGenerator
Direct speed feedback
for motor controller
I need to drive a 10A DC motor (from
a treadmill) at precise speed under a
cyclically varying load. Would it be
possible to modify your Full Wave
Universal Motor Speed Controller
from March 2018 (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/10998) with the addition a
feedback input from a light chopper?
As many people are using these motors to drive small lathes and other
devices that would benefit from more
precise control, it might make a good
supplement to the original project. (G.
C., via email)
• The Full Wave 10A Universal Motor
Speed Controller published in March
2018 is not suited for DC motors. It is
only for mains-operated universal motors. They may be similar in appearance, as both types have brushes, but
the DC motor on the treadmill can’t be
run from AC.
Even if the output of the AC Motor
Speed Controller was rectified, the
peak applied voltage of up to 350V or
more could break down the insulation
in the 180V-rated DC motor and that
could lead to motor damage and would
also make it a shock hazard.
We have carefully considered producing a speed controller for this type
of motor, but there are several probsiliconchip.com.au
lems with doing so. One is that DC
motors have varying voltage and current requirements, so it would be difficult to come up with a ‘one size fits
all’ approach.
Our design would also be quite large
and complex, and not price competitive with off-the-shelf DC motor speed
controllers, which are available. The
commercial controllers are switchmode designs, which are considerably
more compact and efficient, but would
be hard to do as a DIY project.
Problems with
Mk3 Theremin
I am building your newest Mk3
Theremin (January 2018; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10931) from a kit my
folks purchased from Jaycar Electronics some time ago. Long story short, I
can’t get it to work.
I have power running through it,
the LED lights up, and I can hear static coming weakly from the speaker.
Most of the test points come back with
voltages that vary from the expected
values; most of them are 1-5V below
the expected values. Three specific test
points have odd voltages. TP5 and TP6
both measure 1.26V while TP9V is a
little high at 9.82V.
I have gone over all my soldering
and can see no faults. I have had two
other competent sparkies look at it as
well, and both cannot see any obvious
mistakes, with one painstakingly going over all of my resistors and capacitors. It is a pretty safe bet that all of
the components are in the right place,
and the soldering is good.
Our last guess is that I might have
blown a component during installation, or when I ran the wrong power
supply through it.
I used a 60W iron at an average of
400°C for soldering, and originally was
given a 12V DC power supply instead
of 9V AC. One of the sparkies had a
good look at the circuit diagram but
couldn’t be certain where an issue
would arise when I used the wrong
power supply. (N. S., via email)
• Accidentally applying 12V DC will
not damage anything. It does seem
strange that TP9V is 9.82V as the regulator output should be no more than
9.25V according to the device data
sheet. The only apparent way to fix
that is to replace REG1.
The voltages at TP5 and TP6 concern us more, though. TP6 should
Australia’s electronics magazine
measure about 0.6V less than TP5. We
think either Q4 has a short between its
base and emitter, or there is a short on
the PCB between these points.
Circuit to drive
slave clocks
Have you ever done a project to
drive old-school slave clocks? I have
one that works on a 1/60Hz, 24V pulse
to move the minute and hour hands
via a coil (draws 100mA each activation). I’m looking for something that’s
reasonably accurate to drive it. (D. V.,
Newcastle, NSW)
• We haven’t published a suitable project. In theory, you would just need
to take something like a GPS module
that has a 1PPS (one pulse per second)
output and then add a divide-by-sixty
circuit after that. But it isn’t quite that
simple as there are a variety of requirements. Some clocks require a reverse
polarity alternating pulse, some require
hour forward/hour back and pulse forward signals to set the clock.
Elliott Sound Products has a fair
amount of detail on driving this type of
clock at https://sound-au.com/clocks/
arduino.html
Help aligning
Super-7 AM Radio
In my dotage, I have completed the
Super-7 Radio (November & December
2017; siliconchip.com.au/Series/321)
but am having difficulty aligning it.
The DC supply is 9.2V, and the test
point readings are 8.78V, 1.56V, 8.79V,
1.15V, 8.78V, 1.73V, 8.91V, 4.50V,
4.33V, 3.67V and 4.15V. The current
drain is 5mA.
My new DDS IF Alignment unit
(September 2017; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10799) provides a nice curve
to encourage me that my second-hand
CRO is giving the correct readings.
Applying 455kHz with the small
wire loop with various signal levels
from the DDS, with the CRO on TP6
and my DMM on TP3 (1.15V) and using my mother’s knitting needle to
adjust the three IF transformers, I get
no change on the DMM reading and I
get nothing on the CRO. I am not sure
about the level on the DDS. The text
says 1mV RMS and 800mV RMS for
the other methods.
I have noted there is minimal
movement on the transformer slugs.
I have unsoldered the tiny wires on
September 2020 107
the tuning coil, and there is no short
circuit. Also on the tuning coil, the
clear wire is not at the far end of the
coil, as mentioned in the text. (P. M.,
Hadfield Vic)
• Your test readings are all good. The
problem could be with the tuning coil
connection, as there are two windings.
The main winding connects between
the two terminals marked “clr” and
“blu”, and the tapping winding connects between the terminals marked
“grn” and “red”.
Check that the far end of the main
winding connects to the “clr” terminal
and the other end of that winding is to
the terminal marked “blu”.
You can check which winding is
which by measuring resistance. There
should be a low ohms reading between
the wires that go to the “clr” and “blu”
terminal. This wire must be disconnected to measure the winding itself,
so it is isolated from the connections
on the PCB.
Similarly, you should measure a low
ohms value between the “grn” and
“red” terminals while the wire that
goes to the “blu” terminal is still disconnected. It might help us to figure
out what’s wrong with your unit if you
send us a photo of the board (ideally
top and bottom, as sharp and well-lit
as possible).
Help driving an I2C
LCD with a PICAXE
I am trying to use an I2C LCD with
a PICAXE20M2 without any success.
I have sorted out some address problems and learned a lot about the I2C
protocol.
I have confirmed that the I2C LCD
works with an Arduino, with full
display features. I then programmed
an Arduino as an I2C slave with the
PICAXE as the master and confirmed
the PICAXE was sending the codes
correctly on the I2C bus.
The LCD seems to be receiving
something, as the display flashes, but
the simple text “Hello World” refuses
to appear. Can you please have a look
at my code and see whether you can
figure out why it doesn’t work. (W. S.,
Wellington, NSW)
• It appears you are sending raw
strings to the display over the I2C
bus, eg:
hi2cout (“Hello World”)
The Arduino library translates text
108
Silicon Chip
into a series of commands and data to
send to the LCD. In other words, the
display will not work with the data
you are sending it.
It does not expect to receive one
byte to display at a time, but instead
receives four bits at a time (half a byte).
The remaining four bits in the I2C data
packet are control codes which tell the
display whether a command or data
is being sent and provide the clock to
tell it when to receive data. Sending
a single ASCII character to the LCD
involves at least four bytes being sent
on the I2C bus.
If you have a spare Arduino, you use
your I2C slave code to monitor what
is being sent by the working Arduino
code. You can then try sending that
data from the PICAXE.
Our article on I2C LCDs (March 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10584) is a
handy resource, and it is worthwhile
reading the LCD controller data sheet
too (eg, see siliconchip.com.au/link/
ab4a).
Stationmaster 5V rail
measures very low
I have built the Stationmaster
PWM train controller (March 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10575).
When I apply power, LED3 lights up,
but I get very little voltage at the output.
I measured 0.3V at the Vcc test point
and half that at Vcc ÷ 2. I expected 4.55.5V. What might be causing this? (T.
G., Tauranga, NZ)
• There are many reasons why the
supply voltage could be low. Check
that the bridge rectifier, BR1, is orientated correctly and that you can measure the input supply voltage (approximately) at pin 5 of IC3.
The 5V supply rail could be low
due to a short circuit or an incorrectly orientated electrolytic capacitor or
IC (IC1 or IC2). Check your construction carefully.
If the input to REG1 is OK but the
output is just 0.3V, that suggests there
is a problem with a component that
runs off the 5V rail (most likely IC1
or IC2). If the input to REG1 is also
low, then we suspect a problem with
either BR1 or one of the three 1000µF
electrolytic capacitors.
If you still can’t figure it out, send us
photos of the top and underside of the
printed circuit boards. We may be able
to spot the problem from those photos.
Australia’s electronics magazine
High power DC motor
speed controller
Have you published any 12V or 24V
DC motor speed controllers recently
capable of currents up to 70A? I am
looking for a 24V version, preferably
at up to 70A. (P. H., Gunnedah, NSW)
• We haven’t published a 70A-rated
DC motor speed controller, but the
High Power DC Motor Speed Controller from February & March 2017
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/309) can
handle up to 40A. It is available as a
kit from Jaycar (Cat KC5534), and is
currently on sale. But we suspect that
means it will soon be discontinued, so
if you want one you had better act fast.
It may be possible to use two Mosfet boards in parallel to achieve 70A,
but you would need some serious wiring, and we haven’t actually tried that.
Using PV panels
for heating water
I was just reading issue 152 of Renew magazine, and there is an article
starting on page 56 about DIY PV water heating.
If I recall correctly, Silicon Chip
magazine has already explored the direct connection of the output of a PV
panel to an electric water heater utilising a new element. From that discussion, I gleaned that the devil was
in the detail, and corrosion would be
a serious problem with a DC supply.
A proposed solution being to alternate polarity at a regular interval via a
relay, though this created a new problem with likely arcing of the contacts
from repetitive switching under load.
I want to write to Renew magazine
so their readers can be alerted to the
potential problems. However, I would
like to refresh my understanding so I
was looking for the article, but can’t
find it.
I’m hoping that your internal search
engine is better than Google, so you
can provide me with the details. Then
I will also be able to recommend interested Renew readers read the Silicon Chip article for themselves. (T. H.,
Canberra, ACT)
• We found references to this topic in
the following issues:
• September 2013, Ask Silicon
Chip, pp98-99.
• September 2014, Ask Silicon
Chip, pp98-99
• November 2014, Mailbag, p9
siliconchip.com.au
• October 2017, Ask Silicon Chip,
p96
• December 2017, Mailbag, p5
Reconfiguring
Micromite touchscreen
I have successfully constructed
and programmed the Micromite LCD
BackPack (February 2016; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/9812). I got the display
working in landscape mode. How can
I reconfigure the display? I want to
invert it. But when I enter “OPTION
LCDPANEL ILI9341,RL,2,23,6”, it says
it is already configured. Even if I reprogram the Micromite, the display
configuration is retained. (A. D., Erskine, WA)
• Use the OPTION LCDPANEL DISABLE command first, then try reconfiguring the display. This is explained
on page 18 of the Micromite manual
(siliconchip.com.au/link/aaxu). The
OPTION LIST command is a handy
way to tell what the currently set options are.
Preamp for 2 x 5W
Class-D amplifier
Thanks for all your help when I was
building the Currawong valve amp. It
is now working well. I have just completed the One-Chip 2 x 5W Mini Stereo Amplifier from November 2014
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/8064),
and it’s working (something to do
while “staying at home”).
Which pre-amp would be best suited for this amp, so that I can operate
a mic and a guitar? The Pre-Champion
kit looks OK; or is there a better one
for this amp? I am an old bloke, just
turned 90. (R. W., Menora, WA)
• The Pre-champion is cheap and
easy to build and should suit your application, so give that a try. It is very
basic though, and it may not give you
enough gain, depending on the sensitivity of your microphone and guitar.
If you require a balanced input for the
microphone, then consider our September 2010 High Performance Microphone Preamplifier (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/283).
Modifying a drill for
motor speed controller
I built your 230V/10A Speed Controller for Universal Motors (February
& March 2014; siliconchip.com.au/Sesiliconchip.com.au
ries/195) shortly after you published
it, and it transformed what I could do
with a Unimat 3 lathe. It gives amazing performance to this day.
Recently, I made up an attachment
to drill out the threaded stud holes on
two Mk1 Escort rear axles, in a larger
lathe, to take larger and longer threaded wheel studs. This involves locking
the lathe chuck in a fixed position and
offering the drilling machine up to the
stud holes to enlarge them with the
lathe saddle.
The problem is that the drill runs far
too fast, even on slow speed, and as
you mentioned in your February 2014
article, the trigger “speed controller”
cuts out at anything below 50% speed.
I thought to use my KC5526 controller
on the drill, but remembered your article point that it couldn’t be used on
any power tool with an inbuilt speed
controller.
Is there any way I can cut the drill
speed controller out and replace it
with an on/off trigger so that I can use
my Speed Controller with it? (R. K.,
Auckland, NZ)
• You shouldn’t need to rewire the
drill. Just press in the switch at the
full speed setting and lock it in place
(usually, these drills have a switch lock
to hold the drill switch in). This will
bypass the internal speed controller.
Then use the one you built to control
the drill.
Substituting amplifier
output transistors
I discovered your magazine a decade ago and have built multiple projects from it. Recently, I bought your
PDFs on USB magazine package all the
way back to the first issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/digital_pdfs), and I’ve
only covered a tiny fraction of it so
far. It has been enjoyable reading. I
have been looking at your amplifier
designs and am intrigued by the way
they have evolved over time.
I am interested in building the
Class-A Amplifier from May-September 2007 (and potentially the Studio
350 from Janaury-Febraury 2004) and
was hoping to understand better why
MJL21193/94s transistors were specified.
Looking around, there are other
cheaper transistors with very similar names available such as the
FJA4213/4313 (used in the SC200),
2SA1962/2SC5242; FJL4215/4315,
Australia’s electronics magazine
2 S A 1 9 4 3 / 2 S C 5 2 0 0 , T TA 1 9 4 3 /
TTC5200, MJL3281/1302 (used in
the Ultra-LD Mk.1), MJW3281/1302,
NJW0281/0302, NJW3281/1302 and
NJW21193/94.
My electronics knowledge is basic,
so selecting parts, understanding their
function and designing circuits is beyond my ability. My first preference for
replacing the MJL21193/94 would be
FJA4213/4313 (or variants), as these
are the cheapest parts. Would these,
or what looks like its bigger brother,
the FJL4215/4315s (or variants) be
suitable?
Second preference, with slightly higher cost would be the
MJL3281/1302. The April 1996 amplifier used MJL21193/94s, which were
successfully replaced in what I understand to be its successor, the original
Ultra-LD, with MJL3281/1302s. Would
I be able to do the same with the ClassA Amplifier and use MJL3281/1302
(or variant) parts, as they are available cheaper?
I am led to believe from Silicon
Chip’s use of the five-legged ThermalTrak variants in later Ultra-LD designs
that transistors with 281/302 in their
name have excellent performance.
As my third preference, would I be
able to use NJW21193/94s instead,
which have almost the same name,
seem to be the same product but are
still slightly cheaper? (E. B., Viewbank, Vic)
• While the MJL21193/94 transistors
from ON Semiconductor are the ones
we recommend, you could use the ON
Semiconductor NJW21193/94 transistors instead. We don’t recommend
the other alternatives you have mentioned, as the performance is likely to
be compromised. The low distortion
design assumes the use of the specified transistors.
To understand why output transistor selection matters so much, you
should read Chapter 6 of Douglas
Self’s Audio Power Amplifier Design
Handbook (“The output stage”). To
achieve excellent performance, the
output transistors must be very linear,
well-matched and have other desirable
properties. Two transistors with very
similar specifications may perform
very differently in this respect.
The “ThermalTrak” NJL3281/
NJL1302 five-lead transistors used
in the Ultra-LD Mk.2, Mk.3 and Mk.4
amplifiers are virtually identical to
the MJL3281/MJL1302 three-lead
September 2020 109
transistors used in the Ultra-LD Mk.1
except for the addition of the thermally tracking diode junction. They are
all excellent performers.
The FJA4313/FJA4213 used in the
SC200 were chosen because they are
excellent value and the SC200 was
supposed to be cheap and easy to build
rather than offering ultimate performance (although, it turned out to be a
decent performer).
We usually find that changing the
output transistors in a power amplifier requires other changes throughout
the amplifier such as varying the VAS
current, the compensation capacitor/
scheme, the biasing scheme and possibly other aspects. Otherwise, you
can end up with an oscillator rather
than an amplifier, or just inferior performance.
We do a lot of testing and tweaking with our specified components,
so it’s a good idea to stick with them
if at all possible.
Instructions for Digital
Pulse Adjuster kit
I need the build instructions for the
Digital Pulse Adjuster kit. I have the
actual kit but no instructions. (P. H.,
Metford, NSW)
• The article describing that project
was published in our Performance
Electronics for Cars book. We have sold
out of printed copies, but it is available as a digital edition at siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/3/3023
PIC-TOC construction
is difficult
I built the old PIC-TOC clock from
the July 2001 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/4169) but am having problems making it go. Was any errata published for this project? Its assembly
was a nightmare, with components
on both sides of a single-sided circuit
board. It is running (it starts and says
“1 2 3”), but not making noise and I
can’t set it up.
Probably those darn switches on the
underside aren’t connected properly.
(B. M., Shenton Park, WA)
• You can check the Notes & Errata
on our website (siliconchip.com.au/
Articles/Errata), although we haven’t
published any errata for the PIC-TOC.
We certainly avoid designs like that
these days. Try checking the function
of each pushbutton with a DMM set
110
Silicon Chip
in continuity mode. You will need to
identify which tracks connect to which
buttons, which can be seen in Fig.2.
They appear to be chained, so a bad
solder joint on any one would prevent
them all from working.
Substitute for
obsolete thermistor
I recently found myself with a lot
of time on my hands. I came across
an article in an old copy of Electronics Australia (January 1985). Page A20
of the Holiday Projects section of the
magazine has a “Sine and Squarewave
Oscillator” by David Edwards.
The oscillator uses easy-to-get components like BC549s and 559s for the
sinewave portion and a 555 for the
square wave part. However, the RA53
thermistor is no longer available,
which really puts a damper on things.
Is it possible to substitute a different
thermistor to give new life to this design? (K. W., Hamilton, NZ)
• Unfortunately, the RA53 thermistor had certain properties that are not
matched in more modern thermistors.
These made it very suitable for amplitude stabilisation in an oscillator
circuit. We are not aware of any substitutes or old stock. Elliott Sound
Products has a web page discussing
this problem and some possible alternative devices at https://sound-au.
com/project22.htm
Help using hobby
CNC machine
Firstly, let me congratulate you all
on an excellent and wonderful publication. I find myself watching for my
postman in anticipation of the next
month’s edition.
A little while ago, I asked for advice
regarding a hot air rework station. I
ended up getting a Horusdy dual soldering station with a temperaturecontrolled soldering iron and a hot
air rework station, all in one. With the
money I saved, I also bought a Micron
T2065 vacuum desoldering station.
The total cost came in well under my
$400 budget (which pleased my wife
immensely).
I now think to myself all the time:
how did I ever work without them? Instead of spending a lot of time slowly
desoldering SMD components and ICs,
then more time cleaning the pads etc
before I can fit the replacement IC, I
Australia’s electronics magazine
just fire up the hot air, and the job is
complete in minutes instead of hours.
I would like some more advice because I have acquired a Woodpecker
CNC milling machine. It is a hobby
machine, readily available online
from eBay etc at a very reasonable
cost. However, it uses G-code, and
the software supplied with this unit
is dismal at best.
Could you please advise me on the
best (and maybe free) design software
that will produce a G-code file. I also
need control software to send the Gcode to the machine. (D. S., Maryborough, Qld)
• Tim Blythman responds: we haven’t
used that style of CNC machine very
much, but it does look a lot like a machine I tried out about four years ago
at my previous job. The Woodpecker looks the same as the LinkSprite
CNC machine, which you can see at
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab47
There is a link to the control software at the bottom of the page, which
at the time of writing this goes to the
following ZIP file: siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab48
I was able to run some engraving
jobs using that software, but did not try
to do anything complicated. It seemed
to work fine.
Since your machine requires Gcode, you probably need a three-step
workflow, the details of which will
depend on what you are making with
your mill. For example, milling 3D
shapes will be different than engraving 2D shapes onto a flat object.
The first step will involve some sort
of CAD/design software. This will create files which (theoretically) can be
used with any mill or perhaps other
types of CNC machine.
Simple milling/engraving outline
designs would probably be similar to
what we do for laser cutting acrylic
case pieces. We use various pieces of
2D design software (some people use
CorelDraw, some use OpenScad), but
they all generate a DXF file. We then
load that into the laser cutter software
and go through a few steps to produce
the file that controls the cutter.
The LinkSprite page mentions ArtCam and InkScape as software alternatives. I have dabbled with InkScape and know that it can produce
DXF files.
The second step is to turn the file
you produce into G-code for your
continued on page 112
siliconchip.com.au
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
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infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2020 111
Coming up in Silicon Chip
Balanced Inputs & Attenuator for the USB SuperCodec
Rather than resting on his laurels, Phil Prosser has produced an add-on board for
his SuperCodec USB Sound Card which adds two balanced inputs and selectable
attenuation settings of 0dB, 10dB, 20dB or 40dB. It fits in the same case as the
SuperCodec and provides professional balanced audio recording, plus makes it
an even more potent audio measurement system.
MicroElectroMechanical Systems (MEMS)
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................81-84
Ampec Technologies................... 9
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona Instruments................. IBC
We’ve used MEMS devices before but haven’t described how they work in detail.
Dr David Maddison’s article explains what they are, how they are made and
shows the many different types of MEMS available. The article includes electron
microscope images showing the amazing precision of these tiny devices.
Hare & Forbes............................. 5
Mini WiFi LCD BackPack
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
All of our “BackPack” projects which combine a microcontroller with a colour
touchscreen have been popular with constructors; some incredibly so. But one
thing they have generally lacked is WiFi connectivity. This one not only provides
WiFi but also contains a powerful 32-bit processor and is surprisingly inexpensive!
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEDsales................................. 111
Ten LED Christmas Ornaments
Microchip Technology......... 7,OBC
We will have multiple Christmas projects in our October & November issues,
including two different, impressive LED Stars that you can fit atop your Christmas
tree (or just put on display). Plus, we will describe eight mini LED Ornaments which
are cheap and easy to build, and look great. They come in a variety of different
colours, and you can also mix and match LED colours to your heart’s content.
Ocean Controls......................... 11
The First Computer Graphics Cards
Silicon Chip Binders............... 111
Dr Hugo Holden describes, in detail, the Matrox ALT-256 and ALT-512 graphics
cards. These were two very early expansion boards (the ALT-256 almost certainly
being the very first) which allowed computers with an S-100 bus to display video
graphics on a monitor. You can even gang up three ALT-256s to display in colour.
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB....... 89
Note: these features are planned or are in preparation and should appear
within the next few issues of Silicon Chip.
The October 2020 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, September
24th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between
September 22nd and October 9th.
Premier Batteries...................... 41
RayMing PCB & Assembly.......... 4
Silicon Chip Shop...........104-105
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 63
Tronixlabs................................ 111
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wagner Electronics..................... 6
Notes & Errata
Arduino-based Digital RF Power Meter, August 2020: in Fig.5, IC1 is labelled IC4. Also, the capacitor referred to in the text
as Cobp is actually Clpf.
GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock Driver, February 2017: on page 39, the text states “For either type of clock, the clock pulse
width can be changed in steps of 1ms…”. This is incorrect; only the sweep hand firmware offers 1ms steps. For clocks with
stepping hands, the pulse width can only be set from 16ms to 96ms in 8ms steps. One reader found that a 56ms pulse width
gave reliable drive with a battery voltage as low as 2V with his clock.
230V 10A Universal Motor Speed Controller, February & March 2014: the STGW40N120KD IGBT used in this project is no
longer available. Several suitable alternatives are available; the best option is the IGW40N120H3FKSA1 (1200V, 80A).
specific machine. I don’t remember
what I used to produce the G-code;
I suggest Googling for “dxf to gcode
grbl”. DXF2GCODE looks like it is
worth trying (see http://grauonline.
de/wordpress/?page_id=3211), but I
can’t vouch for it.
112
Silicon Chip
Many 3D printers use G-code too,
so 3D printer ‘slicing’ software might
create workable G-code.
Finally, the Linksprite Control Software can be used to send this to the
machine. I would definitely have my
finger on the power switch while tryAustralia’s electronics magazine
ing this for the first time; something
as simple as a units mismatch could
cause your mill to do something unanticipated.
Since the Linksprite CNC runs the
‘grbl’ software, you can use that as a
keyword in searches for tools.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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