This is only a preview of the April 2021 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 41 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Digital FX (Effects) Pedal - Part 1":
Items relevant to "Refined Full-Wave Motor Speed Controller":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "High-Current Four Battery/Cell Balancer - Part 2":
Items relevant to "Arduino-based MIDI Soundboard - Part 1":
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
APRIL 2021
ISSN 1030-2662
04
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Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 1
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Contents
Vol.34, No.4
April 2021
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
14 Digital Radio Modes – Part 1
Digital radio is an extensive field utilised by amateurs, industry, military
and government alike. This article discusses the various types of digital
communication throughout the ages – by Dr David Maddison
64 The History of Videotape – Helical Scan
Helical scan systems were in part designed due to the lack of a pause or still
frame feature. They also offered lower tape speeds, leading to longer recording
and playback times. Helical scan systems would also eventually overtake
quadruplex in compactness – by Ian Batty, Andrew Switzer & Rod Humphris
100 Review: Wagner cordless soldering iron
This new battery-powered soldering iron from Wagner Electronics can be
recharged over USB and comes with three different tips. For example, one of the
tips can be used for heat-shrinking – by Tim Blythman
Constructional Projects
Our Digital Effects Unit has 15
different effects, with the ability to
customise eight. It’s powered from
9-12V DC, and includes true bypass
and no signal inversion. It works
well with piezo pickups due to its
high input impedance – Page 24
24 Digital FX (Effects) Pedal – Part 1
This effects unit, based on the Spin FV-1 IC, is primarily designed for use with
instruments, but can also be connected to a mic preamp or mixer. It has 15
different effects built-in (reverb, vibrato, distortion etc) and you can customise
eight of them; the unit even has a true bypass feature – by John Clarke
36 Refined Full-Wave Motor Speed Controller
Our brand new 230V 10A universal motor speed controller is vastly superior
to previous models. Changes include an external feedback controller, the softstart feature can be turned off, and improved ability to maintain motor speed
under load – by John Clarke
76 High-Current Four Battery/Cell Balancer – Part 2
In the final part of this series, we handle construction and testing of the Battery
Balancer along with some safety tips – by Duraid Madina
88 Arduino-based MIDI Soundboard – Part 1
This new and improved Motor
Speed Controller works with
universal and shaded-pole motors
up to 10A. It has external feedback
gain adjustment, optional soft-start
and current feedback – Page 36
This simple project turns an Arduino into a 64-key MIDI matrix, which can be
used similarly to a 61-key beginners’ keyboard. The MIDI shield includes a
basic synthesiser and audio amplifier, making it easy to test – by Tim Blythman
Your Favourite Columns
46 Serviceman’s Log
I hope the purists won’t spit their dummies – by Dave Thompson
61 Circuit Notebook
(1) Biofeedback for stress management
(2) Latching output for Remote Monitoring Station
(3) Alternative switched attenuator for Shirt Pocket Oscillator
(4) Follow-up to ‘constant’ AC source
102 Vintage Radio
1948 Philips table model 114K – by Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Everything Else
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
87 Silicon Chip Online Shop
siliconchip.com.au
99 Product Showcase
107 Ask Silicon Chip
111 Market Centre
112
Noteselectronics
and Errata
Australia’s
magazine
112 Advertising Index
The 64-key MIDI matrix is a simple
Arduino project which can be
used to trigger sounds. It also
incorporates its own synthesiser
and audio amplifier – Page 88
April 2021 1
www.facebook.com/siliconchipmagazine
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc.
Bao Smith, B.Sc.
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc.
Nicolas Hannekum, Dip. Elec. Tech.
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Reader Services
Rhonda Blythman, BSc, LLB, GDLP
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Staff (retired)
Ross Tester
Ann Morris
Greg Swain, B. Sc. (Hons.)
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
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E-mail: silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
Editorial Viewpoint
Adobe making our lives difficult
Once again, Adobe has made a bizarre decision
which is causing lots of problems for their customers
(and probably others too). They don’t seem to care;
they make these decisions, either without considering the hardships for users, or they do realise and
simply don’t care.
This time, they are getting rid of support for Type 1
fonts, and have given us almost no warning. The first
I heard about it was just a few weeks before it started
causing us profound grief.
Their beef with Type 1 fonts (and it is a valid criticism) is that this older format does not support Unicode; just the basic alphabet, numeric characters etc.
On the other hand, Type 1 fonts provide superior rendering because they
support cubic Bezier curves instead of the quadratic curves implemented by
TrueType. That is why we make (or made) heavy use of Type 1 fonts.
So, you may be thinking, what’s the big deal? Either switch to using equivalent TrueType or OpenType fonts, or convert your Type 1 fonts to one of
those other formats and use them. Oh, how I wish it were that easy.
You see, when you convert a Type 1 font to an OpenType font, two things
happen. One is that it can sometimes look nothing like the original font. I
don’t understand why this is the case, but when we put the original and converted font side-by-side, they are often so different that you’d have trouble
believing they came from the same file.
I think it has to do with how the different font rendering engines deal with
kerning and hinting, but really, that shouldn’t happen. Unfortunately, it does.
The other problem is that the converted font is often considered to have
a different name than the original, meaning that our software will not recognise that it is the same. So when we open up one of the many hundreds
of issues we need to maintain, we’re presented with dozens of messages indicating “font not found”, even though the appropriate fonts are installed
on the system.
So thanks, Adobe. You’ve made our lives miserable and created a lot of
work for us. And for what? Leaving Type 1 support in your software probably would have been less work than removing it. I can’t imagine it’s saving
you much maintenance, either.
So if you notice that some of the fonts look slightly different in this issue
compared to previous issues, now you know why.
Jaycar catalog delay
You might be expecting this issue to come with the 2021 Jaycar catalog;
it is usually bundled with our April issue. Unfortunately, it has been delayed this year, no doubt due to COVID-19. I have been told that it should
be ready later this year.
Staff retirements
We have just said goodbye to two long-term Silicon Chip staff members,
Ann Morris and Ross Tester. Both of them have been with us for more than
20 years – well before I was involved. They have contributed much to the
success of the magazine and we wish them the best in their retirement.
Printing and Distribution:
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Test Master origin revealed
I was just browsing the March 2021
issue and I found an item that made
me very excited. On page 18, in the article on Urban Electronic Archaeology
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/14773),
there was an ‘apparatus’ called a “Test
Master”. I made this thing! I was a
third-year apprentice/trainee tech
with Telecom in 1984. This was one
of the big projects we all had to complete as part of our apprenticeship.
We had to cut and fold the mild
steel base and lid, drill all the holes
and populate the PCBs. The lid and
base were anodised off-site.
Every hole had to be precisely located, or we would have to start over. No
one dared muck it up. The wiring had
to be accurately laced as lacing cables
would be, for many of us, our bread
and butter when we qualified. It had
to be perfect.
I still have mine in my garage, slightly the worse for wear though, and I still
occasionally use it.
I cannot say for how many years
this was part of apprentices’ training,
but even when I was building it, I felt
pride that I built it just about from
scratch. At the time, there was some
discussion about whether we should
have made the PCBs from scratch (they
were premade).
Ahh, great memories!
Tony O’Halloran
Former tech, Telecom/Telstra,
Healesville, Vic.
More details on the Test Master
In the March 2021 issue, you had a
great article on hoarding by Dr David
Maddison. One piece of equipment
he found was a “Test Master”, and
he was wondering about the origin of
the device.
Any Telstra technician who did
their apprenticeship at the Tooronga
training facility will immediately recognise it. It was built as a training ex4
Silicon Chip
ercise by many apprentice electronic
technicians.
It taught metalwork, soldering, basic electronic theory, circuit reading
and much more during the construction. Including, yes, cable lacing; considered an important and useful skill
back in those days.
I made my “Test Master” in the early-to-mid-80s, and it sat on my hobby
desk, actually being used for many
years. It’s currently packed away in
a box after a move a couple of years
ago, but was still occasionally used up
until then. I hope this information is
useful, though no doubt plenty of other ex Telstra techs will write in with
similar stories.
Peter Tremewen,
Drouin, Vic.
Very high-quality AM reception
with DAB+ radio
I am writing again with what will
probably be the last update of my alternative AM/FM/DAB+ radio code,
described in the Mailbag section of
the October 2020 issue (January-March
2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/330).
I received a lot of feedback and suggestions from my friend Ingo Evers
and have added a fair number of new
features to the earlier version, and resolved many of its problems.
It was helpful working on a project
like this with a friend, because we have
each found and fixed small problems
with the way we constructed our radios. And by seeing the same unexpected behaviours on two independent radios, we have noticed and corrected
some software problems.
I’m motivated to share this update
because we made a surprising discovery. A few weeks back, Ingo was
lamenting that AM quality on this radio was not up to the standard of his
other receivers despite great DAB and
FM performance. I agreed that I felt my
radio’s AM was the same.
Australia’s electronics magazine
But then I remembered from earlier
in the lock-down when I was studying
the radio chip’s programming guide,
there was an AM setting for changing
the audio bandwidth.
I went back to the data, found that
setting, and saw that the radio chip
defaults to an AM audio bandwidth
of 3.5kHz, which is barely equivalent
to an analog telephone.
You can easily change this setting
in multiples of 100Hz. A quick experiment showed that the Silicon Chip
DAB+ radio is more than capable of
astonishing AM fidelity, and I was
surprised in a good way.
Now we can say even more than
earlier that the radio is capable of providing a superb sound quality through
a decent hifi setup, and we are even
happier than we were with how the
project has turned out.
The latest version of my revised
software lets you configure the AM audio bandwidth on a station-by-station
basis, from the radio’s minimum of
1.5kHz (which sounds rather muffled)
up to its maximum of 10kHz (which
sounds almost the same as a welltuned FM station). You can change the
audio bandwidth in near real-time, so
the improvement is very noticeable as
you wind it up.
I had always assumed that the audio
bandwidth of Australian AM broadcasts was just 4.5kHz (half of the 9kHz
nominal channel spacing), and that
this was the reason for the muffled
sound we have all become accustomed
to over the years. Clearly, that is not the
case, and Australian AM broadcasts
are transmitted with at least 10kHz of
audio bandwidth.
When I searched for information
about how much audio bandwidth
Australian AM broadcasters are permitted to utilise, I could not find the
answer. It would be interesting if you
can find out.
I had also assumed you’d hear a
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Silicon Chip
I never cease to be amazed at the geographical diversity of Silicon Chip correspondents and contributors. The
March 2021 issue is a good example.
The Circuit Notebook section contained contributions
from Sofia, Bulgaria; Paraná, Argentina; Oran, Algeria;
and Capetown, South Africa. There was also a letter in
Mailbag from Singapore.
A quick look at recent issues showed contributions
from Dunedin and Hukerenui, New Zealand; Cambodia;
Vindhyanagar, India; Tehran, Iran; and Hetauda, Nepal.
Designs from Sofia and Tehran are prolific, and perhaps warrant a short biographical story on each of these
clever circuit designers.
To me, this indicates the worldwide appeal of Silicon
Chip content.
Peter Johnston,
Merimbula, NSW.
Average speed tracker needed
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
6
9kHz squeal if the receiver’s AM audio was not severely
band-limited. I guess that unlike traditional analog receivers, digital radios don’t have that problem. It would
be great to explore that more.
This (maybe) final version of the alternative software
implements almost all of the features of the original Silicon Chip software, and several more. One of the many
changes in this version is a new infrared remote control
configuration file, to make it easier to use any remote
control device without modifying the BASIC program.
There are also now optional favourite buttons on the
main screen; the in-built speaker is supported properly,
there’s a mute function, it is much easier to customise the
colour scheme and so on.
As the code size grew, Ingo complained to me that it
would no longer fit into his Micromite. I discovered that
the Linux “CRUNCH” script that I’d been using actually
generates smaller crunched code than the built-in MMEdit
crunch function. The difference is rather significant; the
MMEdit crunched code is maybe 15% larger than the Linux crunching script’s output.
But MMEdit will happily load the Linux-crunched output onto the Micromite, so just load the pre-crunched version into MMEdit and download to the Micromite as you
previously would have done with the uncrunched code.
Cheers, and thanks again for publishing this design. I
think I’ll screw down the lid of my radio now and move
onto the next project!
Stefan Keller-Tuberg,
Fadden, ACT.
Comment: we appreciate all the effort you’ve put into this.
Legislation determines that an AM radio broadcast can
be nominally flat to 7kHz, and while it can extend past
9kHz, it must be attenuated beyond 9kHz. Therefore, a
receiver bandwidth greater than 9kHz may improve the
resulting frequency response.
The supplied software is freely available for download
at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/4940
As usual, I’ll start by saying that Silicon Chip is a great
magazine. I used to be a subscriber, but I like going into
newsagents and browsing. Some Australian magazines
have been lost lately (for example, Australian Model
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Analog Devices. Where what if becomes what is.
See What If: analog.com/WhatIf
Engineering Magazine), and I think
one of the reasons was the low sales
volume. Once it dropped out of the
public eye, the closure was inevitable. I don’t want that to happen to
Silicon Chip.
You recently asked for feedback.
Yes, I don’t read the whole magazine,
but I read most articles. I don’t build
many projects any longer, but I look
forward to what is on offer as I like
the idea of building things.
I am in Bathurst, and recently our
cash-strapped local government has
changed the time/speed/distance cameras to monitor all traffic – it used to
be just trucks – and at the same time
has lowered the allowed error to +3%.
There is one of those machines just
east of Bathurst, in a 100km/h area
for about 26km. The road is virtually straight with no blind spots, some
overtaking lanes, and generally very
safe. Not a ‘blackspot’, so seemingly, this is just a cash-raising exercise.
My idea is to have an Arduino or
Raspberry Pi take GPS data and convert that to an average speed. A large
button could start the process, and
a second press could clear the data,
ready to begin again.
I am not advocating speeding or
unsafe driving, but it is quite easy to
stray slightly over the limit, and the
penalties are severe. A loss of license
would be catastrophic to my ability to
work – yes, at 69, I am still working
and plan to for a few years yet.
Ed Pinder,
Bathurst, NSW.
Comment: You’ll be pleased to know
that we are working on an updated
version of the GPS Car/Boat Computer (originally from April 2016), and
have added this to our list of features.
It should appear in the magazine later
this year. Thanks for the idea!
Compact compass for
Car/Boat Computer
I have used the Micromite LCD
BackPack for many purposes over the
years. Recently, we bought an old Cray
boat with a Sumlog, which was not
reliable. I have replaced it with Greg
Hoyes’ version of the BackPack-based
Boat Computer, which works well.
This version has the best compass; it
works like a gyro repeater and is easy
for navigation.
I have upgraded the code to give a
speed readout in knots to one decimal
place, and it is very reliable.
8
Silicon Chip
I am currently working on upgrading
it to use the BackPack V3. The bigger
display looks more in scale with other
instruments, and is easier to read. But
I came unstuck with the compass card,
as the code is customised to the 2.8in
screen. I am having some difficulty
modifying this code to work with the
3.5in screen, as it is not documented
and uses lots of constants.
Ross Munn,
Paynesville, Vic.
Comment: we agree that this compass
card style is useful, so we have added
support for it to our new GPS Car/Boat
computer, which also uses the 3.5in
screen and will be described within
the next few months.
Advantages of DIY electronics
The request to comment in your
Editorial Viewpoint, January 2021, is
much appreciated. I am a long-time
reader of your magazine, and for over
60 years I have built my own electrical
equipment and continue to use many
past projects from Silicon Chip and
other magazines that no longer exist.
I live off-grid in a remote location,
and have built my own power supplies, mainly from salvaged materials
at a fraction of the cost of the commercial alternatives.
I have a bias towards building my
own gear which I can repair myself,
as I have to drive around two hours
to where I can purchase replacements
for anything that fails.
I believe that some of my projects
work much better than the commercial alternatives. For example, I get
almost twice the usable power from
my solar panels, so don't need anywhere near as many.
When I went to tech school in the
early sixties, there was a hoard of us
kids who made our own crystal sets
etc, and tried to repair valve radios.
We just went through every copy of
Radio, TV & Hobbies.
L. Ralph Barraclough,
Licola, Vic.
Details about VNG radio shutdown
Thank you for replying to my query
about projects requiring the insecure
and buggy Windows OS; I did not know
about Bootcamp for Mac, so I might
try it (but I see that Windows 10 is
still required). I have tried WINE with
some success on simpler programs, but
things like SPICE need libraries (DLLs)
that are only provided with Windows.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The article on time sources was most
interesting, especially VNG, as hearing its "beeps" is what introduced me
to shortwave listening, thence Amateur radio. Did you know that when
the Western Sydney site was going
to be shut down by the short-sighted
government, the then NSW Division
of the Wireless Institute of Australia
considered running it from its Dural
site VK2WI?
Unfortunately (or perhaps, fortunately), the idea was discarded, as the
power bill would have been prohibitive (not to mention wiping out the
callbacks!).
As for the "talking clock", there
used to be a human one, consisting
of a woman sitting in front of two
clocks with a telephone by her side.
I have long since lost the link to the
photograph.
Dave Horsfall VK2KFU,
North Gosford, NSW.
Information on Philips BX205 radio
Charles Kosina's article on the
Philips BX205 B-01 radio in the February 2021 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14756) was both interesting
and excellent. It started with some
head-scratching regarding the unmarked dial. I can possibly enlighten him.
It was originally intended for use in
the tropics, which meant Indonesia or
Malaysia in the 1940s and 1950s. Apparently, new radio stations popped
up, disappeared or changed frequency at random intervals. Regulation was
not a strict affair.
All radios destined for the tropics
were fitted with a 'standard' dial layout, having a zigzagged centre line,
sometimes embellished with frequency or wavelength indications. Other
manufacturers, mostly Dutch, also
copied this layout.
Bakelite versions were known as
"Radio Roti" and were mostly transformerless. Yes, exciting times!
Ben Heij,
Caloundra, Qld.
Building a DC-DC battery charger
Being a semi-retired electronics engineer, I have tried to build my own
DC-DC charger to fully charge the
camper batteries via the vehicle Anderson socket. As you may be aware,
the commercial DC-DC chargers are
prohibitively expensive for us ‘grey
nomads’ on a limited income.
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I built mine using a Geekcreit 400W
DC-DC boost converter module I bought
from Banggood for $15 (siliconchip.
com.au/link/ab77).
I found that if I set the output to
14.5V, it would charge the half-discharged camper battery bank (two
100Ah AGM deep cycle batteries) with
the voltage at the Anderson plug on the
4WD showing 12.5V. But it runs fairly
hot at 15A, so it would require a cooling fan if mounted in an enclosure.
I was reasonably happy with the performance of this cheap solution. Still,
I noticed that without the vehicle running, the voltage would drop below the
minimum required for the module at
this load, and the output voltage would
drop. Even when the vehicle was restarted, the output voltage would not
recover until the Anderson connection
was broken and reinserted.
Most commercial DC-DC chargers
have an MPPT solar input as well,
so if that could be incorporated, I’m
sure it would be a very popular project. I know MPPT can be complicated, so perhaps just an input from a
solar charge controller would suffice.
An LCD status screen would also be a
nice addition.
The option of selecting either
lead-acid or lithium-ion type storage batteries of different chemistries
would also be great. Onboard Bluetooth or WiFi could be used to monitor
the charger remotely using a suitable
app on a smartphone.
I hope your technical team will give
some serious thought to a project such
as this. With the explosion of caravan
and camper sales due to COVID-19,
and the popularity of off-road self-sufficient camping, there is a real need
for a reasonably priced DC-DC charger to keep these expensive batteries
in peak condition.
Bruce Hinton,
Cleveland, Qld.
High voltage and current tracking
supply wanted
Here’s a challenge for you. How
about taking the 45V 8A Linear PSU
(October-December 2019; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/339) and turning it into
a bi-polar or tracking supply?
One obvious use of a bench supply
would be to test a power amplifier.
±45V DC at 4A or so should cover a
lot of the power amplifier applications
out there. I’d imagine that a bi-polar
supply is well within your capabil10
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
ities. The trick would be a sensible
modification to the original project. If
that could be done, then serious kudos to you.
Iain McGuffog,
Indooroopilly Centre, Qld.
Easier way to transfer files
to and from Raspberry Pi
I am writing about your article “A
Virtual Electronics Workbench” from
the February 2021 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/357). After installing
RealVNC on a laptop and enabling
VNC server on the Raspberry Pi, Tim
Blythman then describes how to install and use WinSCP to transfer files
between the RPi and laptop. But there’s
an easier way; VNC viewer and VNC
server can both perform file transfers.
To transfer files from the laptop to
the RPi, move your mouse to the top
middle of the VNC viewer window on
the laptop, and a drop-down menu will
automatically appear. Click the centre
icon, which has a left and right arrow.
This is for file transfers. In the pop-up
box, click “Send files ...”, navigate to
the file you want to transfer to the RPi
and double click it. It will appear on
the RPi desktop.
Transferring files from RPi to the
laptop is similar. Move your mouse
to the RPi taskbar and right-click the
VNC server icon. Select “File Transfer ...” from the pop-up box. Click
“Send files ...”, navigate to the file
you want to transfer to the laptop and
double-click it. It will appear on the
laptop’s desktop.
Peter Ihnat,
Wollongong, NSW.
Comment: thanks for this very helpful
information.
Various comments
on the March issue
It was interesting to see the article on Fetron valve substitutes by Dr
Hugo Holden in the March 2021 issue. Late last year, I mentioned the
Fetrons to my ex-Telecom mate. To
my surprise, he told me that Telecom
used them and that he had experience
with them.
Also, Fetrons were not the only
FET-based valve substitute. Earlier
this year, I found an advertisement in
a magazine for another brand of FETbased valve substitutes, but I cannot
remember the magazine or issue. Perhaps another reader will mention it.
I was also happy to see the Battery
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12
Silicon Chip
Balancer project. For anyone who wants a battery system
of some power, this is the solution for balancing the batteries. It is even more desirable for batteries that are charged
from a limited power source. Unfortunately, I suspect that
the SMD parts and their availability will probably deter
some people from it.
It is probably overkill for the small systems that I use.
Also, the processor is not a PIC chip, and that goes against
the project. It is not that I dislike the SAM processors. It
is just that I prefer to use projects which are PIC-based. If
things go wrong, I already have the means to reprogram
it etc. I do not want to invest in tools that I might only
use a few times.
I read Dr Maddison’s article “Hoarding: Urban Electronic Archaeology” with some interest, since his friend
and I are obviously clones. With a deep interest in most
things technical, and the space to store things that might
be useful, it is not hard to gather a large number of items
that are personally desirable, even if others think that
they are rubbish.
I am faced with the same problem that Dr Maddison’s
friend would have faced in his later years: what I should
do with my collection? The beneficiaries of my will don’t
want these items, but at the same time, I do not wish to
dispose of them because they provide me with parts for
my projects etc.
I have asked those who have suggested getting rid of
most of it to please tell me what I will need in the future.
Then, I can dispose of the other things. Of course, prediction is impossible, and the replacement cost of what I
have works against getting rid of anything.
I have been experimenting with Li-ion cells. I have a
large quantity of used but good 18650 cells. To get batteries with the desired voltage and sufficient current capability, I need to connect the cells in parallel and then
connect the parallel assemblies in series.
I am trying to find the limit for the number of cells
in parallel, if there is one. I know that four cells can be
joined, but is that the limit? I have seen websites warn
about connecting cells of different capacities in parallel,
but that makes no sense. I can understand that cells of
different types should not be combined but not ones of
varying capacity.
Cells with different internal resistances will charge and
discharge differently. Still, I would expect that cells with
different capacities would maintain the same voltage, and
hence the same level of charge. However, there might be
other factors involved which are unknown to me.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
Comments: now that Microchip owns Atmel, pretty much
all their chips (including the SAM series used in the Battery Balancer) can be programmed using their software
and the latest PICkit (as mentioned in the article last
month). So the use of that microcontroller should not be
a negative point for the Battery Balancer project.
We agree that if it’s OK to connect two cells of the
same type in parallel, there should be no practical limit to the number that can be combined as such, as long
as their chemistries are identical. It would be a good
idea to use cells of the same age/lifecycle point to prevent one or more from failing prematurely and taking
out the whole pack.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Digital
Radio
Modes
You are probably familiar with
digital radio and broadcast
technologies like DAB+, DRM, DVB-T
and LoRa (we have reported on all
of these in the past). But digital radio
is a lot more widespread than most
people would realise. It’s used
extensively by amateur radio
operators, industry, governments,
militaries and many others and
there are dozens of different
modes. Read on and learn more;
much more...
more...
14
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Part One . . .
by Dr David Maddison
siliconchip.com.au
M
any analog radio communication modes are being phased
out in favour of digital methods. Some relatively recent examples include the switch to digital TV
(DVB-T) and the introduction of digital broadcast radio (DAB+) and digital
radio modes for commercial, government and radio amateur use.
Advantages of digital radio modes
include:
• greater voice clarity
• interference immunity
• proper encryption
• more efficient use of the radio spectrum
• greater channel capacity
• faster channel changing or searching
• the ability to add new functions to
radios as new software and applications are developed
Disadvantages of digital radio include:
• more complicated software
• possibly higher costs compared to
analog (especially with proprietary
systems)
• intolerance of major RF interference
(despite good tolerance to minor interference)
• the ‘digital cliff’ at extreme range,
where communication suddenly
drops out compared to analog, which
gradually fades out
Analog radio still has some benefits
such as relatively simple and well-understood equipment and hardware-only
solutions with no software to go wrong.
Remaining analog radio in common
use, for the moment, includes:
• AM and FM broadcast radio (although some other countries have
already phased these out)
• HF and UHF CB (citizens’ band)
• standard amateur radio modes
• commercial and government shortwave services
• various short-range transmitters
such as baby monitors and wireless
doorbells (which can be either digital or analog)
Of all the analog radio modes, it is
most likely that broadcast AM and certain government-sponsored shortwave
services will last the longest before
being phased out, as the ownership of
these types of analog receivers is vast
worldwide.
Digital radio history
Overall, though, the advantages of
digital radio greatly outweigh analog
radio. On 27th July 1896, Guglielmo
Marconi first publicly demonstrated
‘wireless’ signals, and in March 1897,
he transmitted Morse Code signals
over 6km. That was interesting because
Morse Code is arguably a form of digital radio transmission, so the concept
of digital radio isn’t altogether new.
Early digital radio modes such as
RTTY (radioteletype) were successfully tested as early as 1922, and have
been in commercial use since 1932.
However, the data throughput at the
time was relatively low, typically 60
words per minute (wpm) for RTTY45
mode at 45.45 baud (bits per second) to
100 wpm in RTTY75 mode at 75 baud.
Much higher data rates have become
possible because of large increases in
computing power and digital signal
processing technology. Computers can
also compress data, conserving radio
bandwidth.
There are vast numbers of digital
radio modes, and we can’t cover all
of them in this article. So we will describe the most interesting or unusual
techniques.
Digital radio basics
With digital radio (or TV), information is transmitted via radio waves in
discrete steps, rather than with the
continuous gradation of values used
for analog transmissions.
The advantage is that the original
data can be precisely reproduced at
the receiving end with close-to-ideal
reception. In contrast, an analog signal
is always subject to some degradation
of the original signal (eg, noise).
Just like analog radio, which uses a
variety of modulation schemes such as
SSB (single sideband), AM (amplitude
modulation), FM (frequency modulation) etc, various digital modulation
schemes can be used. There’s also the
option of digital compression, which
is applied to the data before it is transmitted and reversed upon reception.
This reduces the amount of data that
needs to be transmitted.
i) Early Digital Modes
1) Morse code
Arguably, the first digital mode was
Morse code (also known as CW), first
used in 1844. Information is sent as
a short “dot” (normally refrred to as
a dit), or longer “dash” (known as a
dah), with spaces being delineated
by a lack of transmission. The “dah”
is nominally three times the duration
of the “dit”. There is a one-dit-length
gap between each dit or dah within a
group, a three-dit-length gap between
‘letters’, and a seven-dit-length gap
between each word.
What is not commonly realised today is that the “American” code Morse
developed (originally for the US telegraph service), and the “Continental”
or “International” Code we know today, bear only a passing resemblance
to each other.
Some letters are the same but the
American code also has long daaaaahhhhs and spaces within letters. It has
all but died out these days; even the
Gugliemlmo Marconi (1874-1937), acclaimed as “the father of radio”. He is shown at left with his apparatus assumed to
be set up on the Isle of Wight around 1897/8. At right is the illustration from his radio patent.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 15
theory which was not established until
1948 (it is similar to Huffman coding).
For reference, “SILICON CHIP” sounded
in Morse code looks like this:
dididit didit didahdidit didit
dahdidahdit dahdahdah dahdit
dahdidahdit didididit didit
didahdahdit
Samuel FB Morse (1791-1872),
generally credited with the code
which bears his name and, perhaps
more importantly, the telegraph
system which used it. More detail:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samuel_Morse
International Code has few users
(mainly amateur radio operators dedicated to keeping it alive!).
Morse code was created with maximum efficiency in mind. The more
common letters were coded with the
shortest sequences, and less common
letters with longer sequences. The
most common letter “E” is simply “dit”
and a “T” is “dah”. Conversely, a “Q”
is “dah dah didah”
It turns out that Morse code is close
to the optimal efficiency for encoding
data, as is predicted by information
(Only when there is a space following a “dit” is the “t” at the end
sounded; otherwise it is shortened
to “di”– the dits and dahs flow into
each other).
Note too that Morse code is an aural, as distinct from a visual, language
– hence the dits and dahs. You will
often see it written down as dots and
dashes (eg, A = .–) but this is discouraged, especially if you are trying to
learn the code.
You can write your own code sequences and see how they look and
sound at the following website:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab65
2) Radioteletype
Teleprinters are electromechanical
printers that can print information
transmitted either over a wire (telegraphy), leased line, telephone circuit,
or radio waves, as in a radioteletype
or RTTY.
The Teletype Corporation Model 15
was an extremely popular machine
that was in production from 1930 un-
Fig.1: a Model 19 radioteletype. These machines are still
used today by radio amateurs and computer enthusiasts
for fun. Source: www.railroad-signaling.com
16
Silicon Chip
til 1963. The Model 19 (Fig.1) was a
Model 15 with a paper tape unit and
a Model 14 transmitter distributor.
The model 14 reads the paper tape
encoded with a 5-bit Baudot-Murray
US TTY version of ITA2 code and
transmits it via landline, or it can key
a radio transmitter for wireless transmission.
The US Navy commonly used the
AN/FGC-1 diversity FSK converter
and its companion AN/FRR-3 diversity receiver to receive RTTY comms
(see www.navy-radio.com/rcvr-div.
htm).
Radio amateurs appear to have
started using surplus RTTY units in
the 1940s around the New York area.
For more information, see the following videos:
• “Teletype Model 19 (and Model 15)
Demonstration” – https://youtu.be/
jxkygWI-Wfs
• A 19 part series “Teletype Model 19 - Part 1: A Teletype Arrives
for Restoration” – https://youtu.be/
_NuvwndwYSY
• “Using a 1930 Teletype as a Linux Terminal” – https://youtu.be/
2XLZ4Z8LpEE
3) Hellschreiber
The German Hellschrieber (Schrieber means printer), invented by Rudolf Hell, was a surprisingly advanced
instrument, implementing a form of
Fig.2: a Hellschreiber machine. Characters are encoded on a
spinning drum behind the keyboard and decoded messages (or
sent messages), are printed out on a strip of paper on the right.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: a printed message from a Hellschreiber with slight
timing errors. The message is still intelligible because it
is printed twice. Source: Wikimedia user Mysid.
Fig.3: how a Hellschreiber creates the letter E, and the corresponding
transmitter carrier. Note that the letters written on the wheel
are column designators. Source: video by J. Mitch Hopper titled
“Hellschreiber - What is that?” at https://youtu.be/Ayhf51fUpLs
what we now know of as dot-matrix
printing (Fig.2).
This was equivalent to a teleprinter
but was mechanically much simpler
and cheaper.
It was invented in 1925, and in
1929, Hell patented the invention and
founded a company to produce it. It
was first used in the 1930s for press
services, and was later used during
World War 2.
Like a teleprinter, it could be connected to another device either by a
wired connection, such as a landline,
or via a radio link.
However, the inventor stated that
“The development of the Hellschrieber
was specifically done for wireless communication” and he also said, “The objective of the development was a practical device for the reception of messages from news agencies. This could
only be achieved with a very simple
teleprinter.”
It was still in use well into the 1980s.
It has developed into a software-based
radio amateur standard using a sound
card on a PC and an external transceiver, because original machines are rare
and hard to find.
A fundamental difference between
the Hellschreiber and a teleprinter is
that a teleprinter or teletype transmits
data via coded symbols such as the 5-bit
Baudot code. Teleprinters have no data
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: a modern emulation of Hellschreiber using
software from radio amateur Nino Porcino IZ8BLY
(http://antoninoporcino.xoom.it/Hell/index.htm).
Source: Ernie Mills, WM2U.
redundancy, so in the event of interference, data can be lost or the wrong
character printed, or start (synchronisation) bits missed or misinterpreted.
But with the Hellschreiber, characters are not sent encoded. Characters
are represented by a 7x7 matrix (larger
matrices are possible) and they are sent
as a raster image – see Fig.3.
There might be image distortion in
the event of a noisy transmission, as
shown in Fig.4, but no incorrect characters, since there is no encoding to
be corrupted. There are no start bits
sent to synchronise with the receiving
machine, so nothing to miss or misinterpret.
The device requires a small signal
bandwidth and can be used over conventional voice channels, even when
they are too degraded for useful voice
transmission. It can even be used with
equipment designed for CW (Morse)
telegraphy.
Several different wireless transmission modes can be used, such as PSK
(phase-shift keying), FM (frequency
modulation) and multitone.
When a particular letter is pressed,
say “E” as in Fig.3, a series of pulses
are generated from a rotating encoder
wheel which closes an electric circuit,
or not, depending on the location of
raised contacts.
For column A, no pulses are generatAustralia’s electronics magazine
ed in this example, and all seven rows
are blank. For column B, the first and
last rows are empty, and five pulses in
a row are generated. For column C, the
pattern through the seven rows is offon-off-on-off-on-off and so on. You can
see the modulation of the carrier wave
at the bottom of the diagram.
At the receiver end, an electromagnet brings an inked marker into contact
with a paper tape each time a carrier
is detected.
Since the transmitter and receiver are
not synchronised, there is some possibility that signal delays due to radio
propagation conditions or mismatches in the printer speed will cause image distortion. Therefore, the image is
printed twice, so even if distortion is
present, there is a good chance it can
still be read.
There is a detailed discussion of using modern software and hardware to
emulate Hellschreiber modes on modern equipment at siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab66 (see Fig.5) and videos showing them in operation titled “Hell Feldfernschreiber and 15W.S.E.b in use” at
youtu.be/VDB7wmV7ekA and “Feld
Hell, WW2 German Hell Feldfernschreiber” at youtu.be/Rs4YZv6s70g
We published an article by Stan
Swan on using Hellschreiber in our
May 2005 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/3062), which has quite a bit
April 2021 17
Fig.6: a screenshot of swradio-8 decoding DRM from Voice of Nigeria (https://von.
gov.ng/) on 15.120MHz. This software runs on Windows and Linux and supports
HackRF, RTL-SDR using the RT820 chip and SDRplay SDR devices.
more detail along with instructions on
transmitting and receiving data yourself using a computer sound card. For
further details, see siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab67
ii) Broadcast digital radio and TV
1) DAB+
Digital radio broadcasting in Australia was tested from 1999 and introduced in 2009, using the DAB+ (Digital
Audio Broadcasting) standard, as used
in Europe (but not the UK & Ireland).
In Australia, these are broadcast on VHF frequency blocks 8C
(199.360MHz), 9A (202.928MHz), 9B
(204.64MHz) and 9C (206.352MHz) in
multiplexed form, with multiple radio stations per frequency block. At
the time of writing, DAB+ broadcasts
were predominantly in capital cities;
and not all cities use all channels.
Each frequency block occupies
1.536MHz and supports 1152kbps of
usable data. Each radio station uses a
different amount of data according to
their requirements. Data rates of 24, 32,
40, 48, 56, 64, 80, 88 and 96kbps are
used on Australian stations. At the moment, many of these stations are also
simulcast on regular AM or FM bands.
Using 3A Forward Error Correction
at a “code rate” of 1/2 each frequency block, it can support 18 x 64kbps
stations (1152kbps total), or more at a
lower data rate.
The DAB+ standard supports features such as Program Assisted Data
(PAD) with text of up to 128 characters
per segment, Slideshow (SLS) images,
18
Silicon Chip
Electronic Programme Guide (EPG)
and other data services such as traffic
reports, location of fuel and price, etc.
We published a series of detailed
articles on DAB+ by Alan Hughes in
the February, March, April, June &
August 2009 issues (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/36). We have also published
two radios capable of receiving DAB+
broadcasts, most recently in the January-March 2019 issues (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/330).
For further information, see the PDF
at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab68
2) Digital AM and FM broadcasts
The most popular broadcast bands
are AM medium wave (525-1705kHz),
FM broadcast (87.5-108MHz) and
to a lesser extent, shortwave bands
(discontinuous between 2.3MHz and
26.1MHz).
In the USA, Canada and Mexico,
the proprietary HDR (HD Radio) system is used on the AM and FM broad-
cast bands. HD Radio allows for either
hybrid digital/analog broadcasts or
digital-only. With hybrid broadcasts,
regular AM and FM broadcast-band
equipment can still receive the analog
portion.
As implemented in the USA, in AM
or FM hybrid mode, analog and digital signals are broadcast on the same
frequency. For FM, the bandwidth required for a hybrid signal is 400kHz,
double their usual channel spacing of
200kHz.
They have a wide channel spacing
because stations that are close in frequency are geographically separated.
Europe and Australia use a 100kHz
channel spacing, making adoption of
this system problematic.
In the hybrid FM mode, data rates
up to 150kbps can be transmitted along
with the analog broadcast, while in
pure digital mode, up to 300kbps is
available, allowing features like surround sound.
For AM, 20kHz channels are the
standard (they use 10kHz channel
spacing, while Australia and Europe
use 9kHz). In hybrid AM mode, digital
data is usually transmitted at 40kbps.
In the AM pure digital mode, the full
20kHz channel width is used, giving
20-40kbps, although up to 60kbps can
be achieved if 5kHz overlap into the
adjacent channels is allowed.
That could cause interference on
adjacent channels unless there is sufficient geographical separation, and
there could still be problems at night
with large skip distances.
In the USA, many car manufacturers offer subscriber satellite radio in
their car receivers, and all majors offer HD Radio as well. Satellite radio
is transmitted at 2.3GHz and offers
nation-wide reception.
Fig.7: a Samsung “Anycall” mobile phone from South Korea with
hardware and software to receive DMB-T. This is an older model;
there no longer appear to be phones available today with this
feature. Source: Wikimedia user Ryuch
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
3) Digital Radio
Mondiale (DRM)
DRM digital audio broadcasting can
be on longwave (as used in Europe),
the AM and FM broadcast bands, and
shortwave.
As it is more spectrally efficient
than analog modes, more stations can
fit into the same bandwidth using the
xHE-AAC digital codec (“codec” is
an abbreviation of encoder/decoder).
DRM30 is the mode used below
30MHz, while DRM+ is used between
30MHz and 300MHz. Other data can
be transmitted along with the audio.
Countries that use DRM include
New Zealand, India, France, Brazil,
China, Hungary, Russia, Romania,
Kuwait, UK, USA, Singapore, Nigeria,
and Abu Dhabi. ACMA is considering
the possibility of its use in Australia
– see siliconchip.com.au/link/ab69
We published a detailed article on
DRM (not to be confused with ‘digital
rights management’) in the September 2017 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10798). It is very suitable for
use in sparsely populated areas, like
much of Australia, because a low-power transmitter can serve a vast area.
If you are interested in listening to
DRM, and conditions and your antenna are right, you can try to pick it up
in Australia.
DRM signals abroad are not explicitly aimed at Australia, but it seems
that New Zealand transmissions can
sometimes be picked up. See the comments at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6a
and the schedules at www.drmrx.org/
drmschedules/
DRM can be heard by:
• a radio designed to receive it, such as
the Tecsun Q-3061 DRM Shortwave
Radio (www.tecsunradios.com.au/
store/), certain WiNRADIOs with
licensed software (www.winradio.
com/home/drm.htm) plus models
from Gospell, Avion and Starwaves
• a radio modified to obtain a 12kHz
IF signal for software processing
• a radio with an existing 12kHz IF
output for software processing
• a software-defined radio (SDR) used
in conjunction with the “Dream”
software
Software to receive
HDR, DAB+ and DRM
HDR, DAB+ and DRM can be resiliconchip.com.au
Don’t pay $$$$ for a commercial receiver: this uses
a <$20 USB DTV/DAB+ dongle as the basis for a
very high performance SSB, FM, CW, AM etc
radio that tunes from DC to daylight!
Published October 2013
Features: Tuned RF front end Up-converter inbuilt
Powered from PC via USB cable
Single PCB construction
Want to know more? Search for “sidradio”
at siliconchip.com.au/project/sidradio
PCBs & Micros available from On-Line Shop
ceived on dedicated receivers or via
a computer, sound card and appropriate receiver.
• NRSC5 is multi-platform software
that allows reception of HD Radio
using an SDR – see www.rtl-sdr.
com/tag/nrsc-5/
Note that as HD Radio is only broadcast in North America, it could only
be received in Australia/NZ under
extremely rare skip conditions.
• To decode DAB/DAB+ signals, you
can use qt-dab (siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab6b) for Linux and Raspberry
Pi, or QIRX SDR (https://qirx.softsyst.com/ and www.welle.io) for Windows, Linux, macOS and Android.
• swradio-8 (siliconchip.com.au/link/
ab6c) for Windows and Linux decodes DRM and many other modes
– see Fig.6.
• For a variety of digital radio opensource tools for DAB for Linux, see
https://github.com/Opendigitalradio
• Dream (https://sourceforge.net/
projects/drm/) is a software DRM
decoder. Signals can be received
with a modified analog receiver
(SW, MW or LW) and fed to a PC
sound card, but read comments
at the link before trying to use it.
See our detailed articles on
this topic in the November 2013
and September 2017 issues at
siliconchip.com.au/Article/5456
and siliconchip.com.au/Article/
10798
More details are in the video titled “Decoding Digital Radio Mondiale
DRM Using Dream Decoder” at youtu.
be/lextsInwtUQ
restrial Digital Multimedia Broadcasting) is a video and multimedia delivery service by radio on VHF and UHF
bands.
It is used in South Korea (Fig.7),
Norway, Germany, France, China,
Mexico, the Netherlands, Indonesia,
Canada, Malaysia and Cambodia.
See the video titled “Korean Mobile TV, DMB” at https://youtu.be/
2kx92SZ4grU
The ATSC-M/H (Advanced Television Systems Committee – Mobile/
Handheld) standard is used in the
USA. The signals are broadcast in the
digital TV spectrum, and it is an extension of the digital TV format used
in that country.
Fig.8: the VK3RTV
transmission tower
on Mount View in
Melbourne. It is a
shared tower, but the
transmit antenna is
at the very top, and
there are three
receive antennas
covering onethird of the
horizon each,
just below the
tower
‘outriggers’.
4) Mobile TV
S-DMB or T-DMB (Satellite or TerAustralia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 19
Fig.9: a screengrab of EasyPal from the video titled “EasyPal Digital SSTV 40m Band #Shortwave, 02nd January 2019,
1100-1120 UTC” at https://youtu.be/K0bcrnIB7sU
About 65 TV stations transmit this
format, although there don’t appear
to be any phone-type devices that can
receive it.
5) Digital TV
Australia’s TV system is now fully
digital, with the transition occurring
from 1st January 2001 to 10th December 2013.
We use the European DVB-T standard, although there are numerous
variations within this standard including the codecs used, the number
of sub-carriers, channel bandwidths
and modulation schemes.
The data stream is transmitted using
coded orthogonal frequency-division
multiplexing (COFDM). The precise details are beyond the scope of this article.
You can see an overview of the standard
at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6x
We published articles on digital
TV in the March & April 2008 issues
(siliconchip.com.au/Series/49), plus
March 2010 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/77), June 2013 (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/3820) and April 2016
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9903).
Australia’s DTV system allows for
high-quality video and sound, datacasting, video program information
and a higher number of channels for a
20
Silicon Chip
similar spectrum space than was possible with analog TV.
The government is currently calling
for submissions regarding reforming
television in Australia including the
technical standards.
Submissions close very soon: 23rd
May 2021. Go to siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab6d to find out more.
In the USA, Canada, Mexico and
South Korea, the digital TV standard
used is ATSC. Japan uses its own IDSB
standard, and several countries in
Asia, South America and Africa have
adopted it. (Does this remind anyone
of the PAL/NTSC/SECAM mess?)
Fig.10: a daily weather map from the BoM. This can be downloaded from www.
bom.gov.au/difacs/IDX0854.gif For other maps from the weatherfax service, see
the list under “Australian Weather Charts” at www.weather.gov/media/marine/
otherfax.txt (they don’t appear to be listed on the Australian website!).
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
You can watch some live analog
and digital SSTV streams at www.
g0hwc.com
iv) Analog slow-scan TV
(SSTV) and radio fax
These two types of transmission
might initially seem to be digital, but
both are transmitted by an HF or VHF
analog modulated radio signal using
the same bandwidth as voice. Like
voice transmissions, it is possible to
have long-distance or global reach under the right ionospheric conditions
and frequencies.
Of course, modern transmission
and receiving equipment is likely to
be digital, such as a computer, making
these modes much easier and cheaper
to work with.
So we are including them here due
to the extensive digitisation at both
ends.
The hardware requirements are
modest, typically just needing an old
PC with a sound card in addition to
Fig.11: a screengrab of DroidSSTV from a suitable radio receiver (possibly an
SDR) and antenna.
a smartphone.
The original way to view slow-scan
TV was with a military-surplus long
iii) Amateur digital TV
persistence ex-radar CRT, where the
image would stay long enough until
1) Amateur DVB-T broadcasts
that part of the screen was refreshed
Melbourne has a DVB-T amateur with a new image. This is unnecessary
200W TV repeater, VK3RTV (www. when the image is stored digitally in
vk3rtv.com) at Mt Waverley, shown a computer.
in Fig.8.
You need to be a radio ham to transUnlike the SSTV modes mentioned mit SSTV, but anyone can receive both
below, this operates at a full video frame
rate, just like consumer digital TV.
The signal can be received on some
TVs or set-top boxes at 445.5MHz, or
you can view live streams online from
anywhere, according to the details on
their website.
You can view a recorded video of
Amateur TV Net night titled “VK3RTV
Net 05th January 2021 Off-air log
[mixed quality, missing first 3 minutes]” at https://youtu.be/fNgK3B6ptr0
2) Digital slow-scan TV
Strictly speaking, this mode is not
slow-scan TV (see next section) because
it’s digital, but the name has stuck.
The late Australian Erik Sunstrup
VK4AES developed a digital SSTV
for radio amateurs known as EasyPal (Fig.9).
Versions of his program are still
available for download. For more
information, see www.g0hwc.com/
sstv_drm_news.html
siliconchip.com.au
SSTV and weather fax.
Radio fax is now primarily used to
transmit weather information (weather
fax) to ships at sea, but has been mostly replaced by other methods such as
satellite transmissions. Nevertheless,
several weather fax transmissions are
active worldwide, including from
North America, Europe, Asia and Australia (see Fig.10). Some useful radio
fax links are:
• a schedule of worldwide transmissions: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6e
• a schedule of Australian transmissions: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6f
• software to receive and decode
weather fax on a PC: https://arachnoid
.com/JWX/
• receive weather fax on your Android
or iOS device: http://siliconchip.
com.au/link/ab6g You will need an
appropriate radio receiver.
• interesting commentary on problems and sample images from the
BoM: siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6h
• video showing receipt of Australian weather fax titled “Weather
Fax from Australian BOM HF radio
transmission”: https://youtu.be/SxKn69JAuaE
• receive SSTV on a PC: www.
essexham.co.uk/sstv-the-basics
• another popular SSTV receiver
program for PC, MmSSTV: https://
hamsoft.ca/pages/mmsstv.php
• a newer version of MmSSTV is
called YONIQ: http://radiogalena.
es/yoniq/ (in Spanish but you can
Fig.12: HDSDR, popular free software for SDR radios although it only supports
analog modes.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 21
v) Software-defined
radios (SDRs)
Fig.13: two self-contained SDRs: a Malachite SDR (left) and PortaPack
H2 combined with Hack RF (right). Source: the video at https://youtu.be/
Ja6LTDf9wAk
use a translator on the web page,
and the program can run in English).
• view SSTV images from the International Space Station on VHF
145.800MHz FM: https://amsat-uk.
org/beginners/iss-sstv/
It is even possible to view SSTV on
your phone by holding the phone next
to a radio loudspeaker tuned into an
SSTV channel with the right App. The
App for iOS is “SSTV Slow Scan TV”.
For Android, use “DroidSSTV - SSTV
for Ham Radio”, shown in Fig.11. We
haven’t tested either ourselves.
These can be very cheap devices,
available for as little as $20, that can
receive various digital signals on your
computer. Popular free software for
doing this is HDSDR (Fig.12), SDR
Console, SDR# (see our article in November 2017; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10879), Linrad, SdrDx, Gqrx
SDR, and SDR Touch.
If you plan to buy an SDR dongle,
make sure its chipset is compatible
with any software you intend to use.
Besides the November 2017 issue, we
have published multiple articles on
SDRs, including two projects to build
your own. The following issues and
articles are relevant:
• LF-HF Up-Converter For VHF/UHF
Fig.14: a screengrab of fldigi in action.
22
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.15: an image received by US radio amateur KD8TTE from Shortwave
Radiogram (https://swradiogram.net/).
Digital TV Dongles, June 2013:
siliconchip.com.au/Article/3810
• SiDRADIO integrated SDR, October
& November 2013: siliconchip.com.
au/Series/130
• More Reception Modes For SiDRADIO & SDRs, December 2013:
siliconchip.com.au/Article/5629
• Tunable HF Preamp for SDRs, January 2020: siliconchip.com.au/
Article/12219
• New wideband RTL-SDR modules,
May & June 2020: siliconchip.com.
au/Series/306
Self-contained SDR radios with inbuilt software and a display can also be
purchased or constructed – see Fig.13.
You can try your hand at receiving
digital radio with a communications
receiver or SDR and appropriate software. There are a large number of software packages, due to space we will
just look at one.
“fldigi” is a free and popular software suite for digital radio modes
(see Figs.14-16). It can transmit or receive digital radio when connected to
a transceiver, although you need to be
a ham or commercial radio operator to
transmit. The software runs on many
types of PCs and other computers; even
the Raspberry Pi.
It supports many general and ham
radio digital modes such as Contestia, CW, DominoEX, FSQ, Hell (for
Hellschreiber machines), IFKB, MFSK,
MT63, Olivia, PSK, RSID, RTTY, Thor
and Throb. It is available for download at www.w1hkj.com and https://
sourceforge.net/projects/fldigi/
There is a detailed 576-page PDF
user manual at http://siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab6i and a comprehensive collection of spectra and the sounds of
various digital modes at www.w1hkj.
com/modes/index.htm
In the United States, this software
is used by various emergency management services for communications
during natural disasters.
Shortwave broadcasters such as
Radio Australia (before they became
an online-only service) have experimented with digital modes using this
software.
Shortwave Radiogram (https://
swradiogram.net/) is a radio show by
Dr Kim Andrew Elliott KD9XB that
transmits digital text and images via
shortwave radio. It can be decoded
with fldigi, TIVAR or AndFlmsg on
Android devices. We have seen various reports that it can be received in
Australia.
For tips on receiving Shortwave Radiogram, see siliconchip.com.au/link/
ab6j and the videos titled “Receiving Shortwave Radiogram – A Digital Text and Image Shortwave Broadcast” at https://youtu.be/0mNgGnvjzVs and “Shortwave Radiogram
170, 20th September 2020, 7780 kHz,
2330-2400 UTC” at https://youtu.be/
Stt4C8Rwu18
For an extremely comprehensive
guide to what various digital mode signals sound like and look like in spectrograms check the following links:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6j
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6k
http://m0obu.net/digital-modes.html
There is a comprehensive list of other software packages to receive digital
modes at www.qsl.net/rv3apm/ (it is
not clear if it is entirely up to date) and
http://siliconchip.com.au/link/ab6l
NEXT MONTH:
In Part 2 of this feature, Dr David
Maddison will look at more of the digital modes in use today and the promSC
ise of things to come!
Fig.16: some digital modes as they appear on the fldigi waterfall display. Source: Summerland Amateur Radio Club
(https://sarc.org.au/fl-digi/).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 23
Digital
FX
Unit
Part 1
by John Clarke
Make like a pro muso with this
Digital FX (Effects) Unit.
It will produce unique sounds
when connected to a variety of
instruments . . . like an electric
guitar, bass, violin or cello, even
the output of a microphone
preamp or within the effects
loop of an amplifier or mixer.
I
t’s very common for musicians to add effects to the
sound of their musical instruments. These are used to
add depth, ambience and tonal qualities and to personalise the sound.
Effects can be subtle or extreme, and can be tailored to
produce a unique sound.
Purely analog audio circuitry can be used for effects
units such as in the Overdrive and Distortion Pedal from
March 2020 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/12576). But for
complex effects, digital signal processing (DSP) is more
convenient and flexible.
Our Digital FX Unit utilises a digital signal processing
integrated circuit (IC) that is designated the SPN1001 FV-1
(or FV-1 for short). This is preprogrammed with eight effects, and while one of these is a test function, the remaining seven provide flange, chorus and tremolo as well as
pitch shift and reverb effects.
A further eight extra effects are stored within an external EEPROM that connects to the FV-1. These effects have
been chosen by us. However, you can change the stored
effects patches.
The FV-1 has been available for many years, and has
been used in many commercially available effects units.
24
Silicon Chip
The FV-1 has a somewhat cult following amongst digital
effects enthusiasts. This has led to the production of numerous freely-available effects patches and software to enable the writing of your own unique effects.
For our Digital FX Pedal, the preprogrammed EEPROM
is filled with eight effects that add to the seven usable effects preset within the FV-1. These individual effects are
selected using a rotary control knob, while the parameters
of each effect are adjusted using up to three rotary controls.
Many effects have already been created for the FV-1 IC,
and these are free to use. These effects include chorus, echo,
flange, phase shift, vibrato, limiter, wah, various reverberation effects, distortion, octave shifts and a ring modulator.
For information on what some of these effects
are and how they are achieved, see www.spinsemi.com/
knowledge_base/effects.html We will explain some of the
basic effects at the end of this article.
There is also an assembler and a graphical software package to help you write your own effects if you feel inclined
to experiment. The software can then be assembled and
programmed into the EEPROM.
This requires an EEPROM programmer; we will have
more details on where to get effects patches, how to store
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Features
• 15 different effects including chorus, echo,
flange, vibrato, wah, reverb & distortion
• Each effect has up to three adjustable
parameters
• Provision to experiment by adding new
effects
• Rugged enclosure, suitable for stage use
• Power supply reversed polarity protection
• High input impedance to suit piezo
pickups etc
• Low power consumption
• Battery or DC plugpack power
• True bypass switch
• No signal phase inversion
them in EEPROM and how to use the assembler
and graphical software later.
Presentation
Our Digital FX Pedal is designed for live music use, and so is housed in a rugged diecast aluminium case. On the top, it has a footswitch,
eight rotary controls plus indicator LEDs.
The signal inputs and outputs are two
6.35mm (1/4in) jack sockets at the rear, along
with a DC barrel socket for power. The unit
can also be powered via an internal 9V battery. Its power is automatically switched on
when a jack plug is inserted into the output
socket.
Operating principle
Fifteen different
effects are available, with
the option to change eight of the effects
to your liking. You can choose them from a list
of many freely available effects, or create them yourself
using freely available tools.
The block diagram, Fig.1, shows the signal
flow of the Digital FX Pedal. The original signal is applied
to CON1, and this is connected to the bypass switch (S2a).
When not bypassed, this signal goes to the high input
impedance buffer (IC1a) and is then filtered with a 19kHz
low-pass filter. This prevents unwanted artifacts in the subsequent digital signal processing (DSP) stage, by removing
RF and ultrasonic signals.
l
Fig.1: the input signal is fed into
the SPIN FV-1 effects chip, and the
resulting modified signal is mixed
with the original signal in a ratio set
by the user via potentiometers VR2
& VR3. VR4 adjusts the mixed signal
gain and this is then fed to S2 which
controls whether CON2 receives the
original or modified (mixed) signal.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 25
9–12V DC
INPUT
+
D1
1N5819
CON4
A
V+
K
+3.3V
OUT
IN
(ACTIVATED
BY CON2)
9V
BATTERY
CON3
REG1
LD1117V33C
S1
GND
A
l
K
IC2: OPA1662
10kW
200 W
100 m F
100 m F
+3.3V
1
POWER
LED1 10kW
100mF
2
S2 c
2
3
IC2a
A
1
l
BYPASS
LED2
K
4
200 W
Vcc/2
Vcc/2
V+
V+
1MW
INPUT
1
S2a
FB1
100 W
2
CON1
1 0 0 pF
100nF
3
2
100nF
8
IC1a
IC1: OPA1662
10k W
1
4
1.2nF
10kW
5
6
560pF
BUFFER
7
IC1b
EFFECTS
INPUT
LEVEL
22 m F
VR1
10kW
LOW PASS FILTER
BYPASS SIGNAL
2N7000
LEDS
LD1117V33C
1N5819
K
K
A
SC
Ó2021
D
G
S
A
O UT
GND
OUT
IN
DIGITAL AUDIO EFFECTS UNIT
Fig.2: the complete circuit, which expands on what is shown in Fig.1. There are two
options for selecting the current effect: the 16-way BCD rotary switch (S3) is the simplest,
but could be somewhat hard to get. The alternative is potentiometer VR8, which has its
position read by microcontroller IC6 and converted into a binary value to control IC4.
IC6 includes hysteresis to avoid unwanted effects changes.
V+
Specifications
• Supply requirements: 9-12VDC, 100mA (can operate down to 7V on battery)
• Current draw: 70mA typical
• Maximum input & output signal levels: 2.3V RMS with a 9V
supply; 3.3V RMS at 12V
• Frequency response: -0.25dB at 20Hz and -2dB at 20kHz for ‘dry’ signal;
-2dB at 20Hz, -1dB at 15kHz and -6dB at 18kHz for modified signal
• Signal-to-noise ratio (SNR), 1V RMS in/out: 95dB for ‘dry’ signal; 85dB for
modified signal
The signal from the filter is fed to two separate level
controls, VR1 and VR2. VR2 sets the level applied to the
signal mixer (more on this later), while VR1 sets the signal level applied to the SPIN FV-1. VR1 is required so that
the level can be set below the clipping level for the FV-1
input. The clip LED lights up to indicate signal limiting
when the level is too high.
The SPIN FV-1 contains a stereo analog-to-digital converter (ADC), a DSP core and stereo digital-to-analog converter (DAC) to produce the output signals. All processing is
done using 24-bit digital audio samples. For more information, see www.spinsemi.com/knowledge_base/arch.html
Note that while the FV-1 can process stereo signals, the
Pedal is a mono device, so we are only using a single channel.
There are two versions of the Pedal, where the effects se26
Silicon Chip
Vcc/2
BYPASS SIGNAL
lection is made using either a rotary switch (S3) or potentiometer (VR8) and associated components – more about
this later. The effect parameters are adjusted using potentiometers VR5, VR6 and VR7. The FV-1 also has inputs
for the crystal oscillator and EEPROM serial connections.
After processing within the FV-1, the output signal goes
through a 19kHz low-pass filter, to remove high-frequency noise (DAC step artefacts) and then to the effects level
control, VR3. Both the effects signal and the original (or
dry) signal from VR2 are combined in the inverting mixer
stage, comprising IC3a and IC3b.
The mixing allows adjustable portions of the dry and
effects signal to be blended to provide the desired result.
The mixer can also provide a signal gain of up to five
times, adjusted with potentiometer VR4. The resulting sig-
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
+3.3V
+3.3V
+3.3V
C VR6
10kW
VR5
10k W
B
K
VR7
10k W
A
S3
CLIP
LED3
200 W
6
5
20
LIN
LIN
LIN
l
21
22
1m F
1kW
SIG INPUT
1
2
+3.3V
1nF
3
10 m F
100nF
10
X1
40kHz
9
8
3
VCC
A2
2
A1
1
7
A0
IC5
24LC32A
SDA
S CL
WP
15
5
14
12
6
15pF
VSS
4
1
2
3
4
5
23
DVDD
AVDD
DVDD
REFP
CLIP
10 m F
POT 1
100nF
LED4
l
K
100nF
A B C D
1
200 W
VDD
S2
LIN
S1
RIN
S0
IC4
FV–1
SPN1001
MIDREF
T0
18
C
7
17
B
6
16
A
13
D
GP1
RA0
IC6
5
RA2 PIC12F1571
2
3
Q1
2N7000 D
RA1
RA3
RA5
4
G
VSS
X1
8
4x
10kW
X2
SDA
LOUT
SCK
ROUT
T1
REFN
GND
GND
GND
GND
4
7
11
19
S
1.2MW
28
27
25
CIRCUITRY INSIDE THIS AREA IS ALTERNATIVE
TO USING IC6, VR8, Q1, LED4
AND ASSOCIATED COMPONENTS
GND
24
DIGITAL PROCESSOR
(CON5)
V+
V+
100nF
10kW
10 m F
10kW
5
6
8
VR4 100kW LIN
20k W
VR3
10kW
1 0 0 pF
VR2
10k W
Vcc/2
4 .7 m F
2
3
5
8
IC3a
1
10m F
4
6
LOW PASS FILTER
DRY MIX
10k W
4 .7 m F
MIXER
100 m F
10kW
EFFECTS
MIX
7
IC2b
100nF
IC3: OPA1662
OUTPUT LEVEL
1.2nF
560pF
SELECT
LIN
POT 2
6
SELECTED A
V R8
10kW
BCD
ROTARY
SWITCH
26
POT 0
EEPROM
ICSP
(PICKIT)
8
E
100 W
SIG OUTPUT
A
PARAMETER ADJUST
IC3b
100 W
100k W
7
20k W
1
S2 b
2
BYPASS
OUTPUT
CON2
INVERTER
AMPLIFIER
Vcc/2
BYPASS SIGNAL
BYPASS SIGNAL
nal is then applied to the bypass switch, S2b. This selects
between the original signal from CON1 and the signal with
effects, with the selected signal going to the CON2 output.
signals can be mixed along with the dry signal to produce
the desired effect.
How the effects work
The full circuit for the Digital FX Pedal is shown in Fig.2.
The input signal from CON1 passes through a 100Ω stopper resistor and ferrite bead FB1. In conjunction with the
100pF capacitor, these block RF signals from entering the
circuit and causing radio-frequency detection and reception. The 100pF capacitor also provides a suitable load for
piezo string pickups.
The signal is AC-coupled to pin 3 of IC1a, and is biased
to half-supply (Vcc/2 or about 1.65V) via a 1MΩ resistor.
This keeps the input impedance reasonably high at 1MΩ,
suitable for a piezo pickup. IC1a is connected as a unity-gain
While it is difficult to show many of the various effects
available, the “octaver” effect can be easily demonstrated.
This is where the dry signal is mixed with a signal shifted
up or down by one octave. These are harmonically related,
at half the frequency and double the frequency, respectively.
In Scope1 (overleaf), the top yellow trace (channel 1)
shows the dry signal and the lower white trace (Ref A)
the up octave signal, produced by doubling the frequency. The middle blue trace (channel 2) is the down-octave
signal, at one half the frequency. The up and down octave
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Circuit description
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 27
Scope1: the signal being fed into the device is shown at the
top, in yellow. Below are the outputs of the ‘octaver’ effect,
set for one octave lower (blue) or higher (white). These
effects signals can be mixed into the original to create
richer harmonics and different sounds.
buffer that can drive the following low-pass filter stage.
The Vcc/2 voltage is derived using two 10kΩ resistors
connected in series across the supply and is bypassed with
a 100μF capacitor to remove supply noise, then buffered
by unity-gain amplifier IC2a.
Note that all the op amps in the circuit have very low
noise and distortion figures of 0.00006% at 1kHz at a gain
of 1, with a 3V RMS signal level. Therefore, the op amps
do not contribute any audible distortion to the signal.
The low-pass filter is a Sallen-Key two-pole 19kHz Butterworth type that rolls off at 40dB per decade (12dB per
octave). It is included along with further passive filtering
to remove any high-frequency signal components above
20kHz. This prevents signal aliasing due to digital sampling at 40kHz. Without the filter, strange audible artifacts
could be generated by the ADC.
Following this filter, the signal is AC-coupled to the level potentiometer, VR1. This sets the signal level applied to
input pin 1 of IC4, the FV-1.
IC4 provides an internal half-supply DC bias for this pin,
hence the AC coupling. The 1kΩ resistor and 1nF capacitor
after the AC-coupling capacitor attenuate any remaining
high-frequency noise.
The signal fed to IC4 must be lower than about 1V RMS
to avoid clipping. Clipping occurs when the signal goes
beyond the 0-3.3V supply range of IC4. The clip indicator
output, pin 5, goes low and drives LED3 if this happens.
VR1 should be adjusted so that this LED does not light.
IC4 includes a crystal oscillator amplifier. The typical
circuit for the FV-1 depicts the crystal as a 32,768Hz watch
type. This is recommended mainly because it is commonly available, but the high-frequency audio response suffers if one is used.
Instead, we use a 40kHz crystal, extending the processor’s frequency response from around 16kHz (when using
the watch crystal) to just under 20kHz. Per the Nyquist
theorem, the highest frequency that an ADC can handle is
at half the sampling rate.
Effects IC4 requires several supply bypass capacitors.
These are 100nF for the analog and digital 3.3V supply
28
Silicon Chip
pins, while the half supply bypass at the MID pin (pin 3) is
10µF. As mentioned above, the mid supply is about 1.65V.
IC4 also requires positive and negative reference voltages for the ADC at pins 25 and 26. Pin 25 is tied directly to
GND (0V), while pin 26 connects to the +3.3V supply via
a 100Ω resistor and with a 10µF filter capacitor, to keep
supply noise out of the signal path.
Effects parameters are varied using potentiometers VR5,
VR6 and VR7. These are connected across the 3.3V supply
and can provide voltages of 0-3.3V to the POT2, POT1 and
POT0 inputs of IC4. The function of each pot depends on
the selected effect.
Effects are selected by the state of IC4’s digital inputs
S0, S1 and S2 (pins 16, 17 and 18) and the voltage level at
the T0 input, pin 13. When the T0 input is low, the effects
selected by the S0, S1 and S2 inputs are those that are preprogrammed within IC4.
If all the S0, S1 and S2 inputs are low, the first effect is
selected. Further effects are chosen with different levels
at S0, S1 and S2. S0 is the least significant bit, and S2 is
the most significant bit of a binary value. The three inputs
provide for eight possible selections (23).
The effects stored on the EEPROM (IC5) are selected
when the T0 input is high (3.3V). Eight further selections
are then available using the S0-S2 inputs. IC4 connects to
the EEPROM via an I2C serial bus using two pins, the serial
clock, SCL and serial data SDA. These connections are also
brought out to the ICSP header for in-circuit programming
of the EEPROM memory chip (if required).
The EEPROM’s supply is bypassed by a 100nF capacitor.
The EEPROM is a 32kbit (32,768 bit) memory arranged as
4096 x 8bits (ie, 4k bytes). Effects patches stored within the
EEPROM are placed in memory blocks of 512 x 8bit. There are
eight 512 x 8bit memory blocks in the full 4k x 8bit memory.
Output signal handling
The effects signal from the left channel output of IC4 (pin
28) is fed to a low-pass filter comprising IC2b, two 10kΩ
resistors plus 560pF and 1.2nF capacitors. This is another
Sallen-Key two-pole 19kHz Butterworth low-pass filter. It
is included to remove high-frequency DAC switching artifacts from the signal. The output signal from IC2b is applied to the VR3 effects level potentiometer.
The signals from the wipers of VR3 and the dry signal
potentiometer, VR2, are combined in the inverting mixer
stage based on IC3b. The mixer gain is adjusted using VR4,
with a maximum gain of negative five times when VR4 is
at its maximum resistance of 100kΩ. The following inverter stage, built around IC3a, re-inverts the signal so that the
output signal is in-phase with the input.
The output of IC3a is fed via a DC blocking capacitor and
stopper resistor to the bypass switch, S2b. When in position 1, this signal goes to the CON2 output socket.
When bypass is selected (with S2 in position 2), the input
signal at CON1 bypasses the effects circuitry, connecting
directly to the output at CON2 via the S2b terminals. The
S2a terminals tie the input for IC1a to ground. This prevents noise from being picked up and amplified by IC1a
in bypass mode.
The remaining switch pole, S2c, controls indicator LED2.
This bypass LED is lit when the signal is bypassed; the
200Ω resistor from cathode to ground limits the LED current to around 6.5mA.
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Two effects selection options
So effectively, a binary value of 0000-1111 (0-15 decimal) is required to select one of the 16 possible effects.
This value controls the states of the S0-S2 and T0 inputs of
IC4. Our circuit provides two ways to make this selection.
The simple way is to use a BCD (binary-coded decimal)
switch, which has 16 positions and four outputs that provide the required binary states. However, 4-bit BCD switches can be difficult to obtain, so we offer the alternative option of using a potentiometer instead.
So circuit Version 1 uses a potentiometer (VR8) and a
microcontroller (IC6) to convert the voltage from the potentiometer’s wiper to a BC (binary-coded) value. VR8 connects across the 3.3V supply and can provide 0-3.3V to the
pin 3 analog input of microcontroller IC6. This voltage is
internally converted to a digital value.
The micro’s digital outputs at RA2, RA1, RA0 and RA5
then generate the required binary (0V or 3.3V) values to
feed to the S0, S1, S2 & T0 inputs of IC4 respectively. The
resulting binary value varies smoothly from 0-15 decimal as
VR8 is rotated from fully anticlockwise to fully clockwise.
Hysteresis is included to avoid the binary value flicking
between two adjacent values near each voltage threshold.
This requires you to rotate the selection pot a little clockwise further than the threshold to select the next higher
BC value output, and a little further anticlockwise from the
threshold to select the next lower BC value.
A change from one effects selection to another is indicated using LED4. The LED flashes off and then on again as
the pot is rotated, to indicate a change in the binary value.
Typically, an 8-pin PIC microcontroller does not have
sufficient pins to handle the analog sensing, 4-bit binary
output and the indicator LED drive. We solve this by using the master clear (MCLR) input at pin 4, and task it as
a general-purpose input to drive the LED.
It might seem that an input cannot be used as an output,
but this input includes the option of a selectable pull-up
current. While many of the 8-pin microcontrollers include
an internal pull-up when the MCLR input is set to operate
as a master clear input, there are not many microcontrollers
that also allow the pull-up to be switched on or off when
this pin is used purely as an input.
However, the PIC12F1571 does have that capability.
To be used as an output, the internal pull-up current is
enabled, so the input will be pulled high near to the 3.3V
supply. The input will go low without the pull-up when
there is an external pull-down resistor. The pull-down resistor must be sufficiently high in resistance to allow the
internal pull-up current to pull the input high enough to
switch on the following stage.
Using a 1.2MΩ resistor as the pull-down resistance, the
minimum pull-up current for that input at 25μA is sufficiently high to swamp the pull-down current from the resistor. Thus, this pin will be quite close to 3.3V with the
pull-up engaged.
We use a 2N7000 N-channel Mosfet (Q1) to convert the
high-impedance drive from this ‘output’ to a low-impedance drive for the indicator LED. It then drives LED4 via
the 3.3V supply and 200Ω current-limiting resistor when
its gate is high.
The second version of the circuit (Version 2) simply
uses a 4-bit BCD rotary switch (S3) to select the effect.
This requires 10kΩ pull-down resistors at the A, B, C & D
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Common effect descriptions
Reverb
Several delayed versions of the original sound
are mixed back with the original dry sound, to
simulate sound in a room or area where there
are sound reflections (a complex form of echo).
The ideal reverb period or delay setting
depends on the type of sound; for music, it
depends on the music’s tempo. As a general
rule, longer reverb times are for slow tempo
music, while shorter reverb times are suited to
faster tempo tunes.
Different reverb programs will have their own
tonal qualities due to differences in the reverb time
of high or low frequencies and differences in the
reverb sound’s overall frequency response. Be
careful not to apply too much reverb, particularly
in the high frequencies, as this will result in an
unnatural sound (unless that’s what you want!).
Start with reverb level all the way down,
then gradually bring the reverb mix up until
you can just hear the difference. Any more
than this will give an unrealistic sound.
Phasing,
chorus,
and flanging
(modulation
effects)
All of these effects have a portion of the audio
signal delayed and then mixed back with the dry
signal. The amount of delay is modulated by a
low-frequency oscillator (LFO). The delay is quite
short compared to the reverb effect.
For phasing effects, the delay is less than
the period of the signal. This phase difference
between the modulated and direct signals
causes cancellation at some frequencies and
reinforcement at others. It produces a comb filter
like effect, where some frequencies are amplified,
and others are attenuated across the audio band.
It causes a ‘shimmering’ type of sound.
Phasing is the subtlest of all these effects,
producing a gentle shimmer that can add life
to a wide range of sources without being too
obtrusive.
For chorus and flanging, the signal is delayed
by a longer period, up to several milliseconds,
with the delay time modulated by an LFO. This also
produces a comb-filter effect and a pitch-shift
effect after mixing with the dry signal, giving a
harmonically rich ‘swirling’ or ‘swishing’ sound.
Chorus and flanging effects mainly differ in
the amount of delay time and feedback used.
Flanging uses longer delay times compared
to chorus, and chorus generally uses a more
complex delay structure. Chorus is most often
used to ‘thicken’ the sound of an instrument,
while flanging is usually used to produce other
‘whirling’ sounds.
Pitch and
octave
shifts
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These effects involve altering the frequency
of the signal. Pitch varies the frequency by
a variable amount, while the octave shift
changes the frequency by a factor of 0.5 for
octave-down and 2.0 for octave-up. Mixing
the octave-shifted signals with the dry signal
produces various effects, including making a
single instrument sounding fuller, or sounding
as though there are multiple instruments.
April 2021 29
Fig.4: two versions of the project have been designed, as described in the text. Each uses a slightly different PCB so make
sure you order the appropriate board. Note that in the switched version, four resistors are mounted on the PCB underside.
switch pins. The common E pin connects to 3.3V, and so
pulls a combination of the A-D pins high, depending on
the switch’s rotation.
Power supply
The circuit is powered when microswitch S1 is activated by inserting the output jack plug into CON2. The plug
physically raises the socket’s ground connection, lifting the
microswitch actuator and activating the switch.
While many effects pedals are switched on when a jack
plug is inserted, it is usually done by a switch internal to
the socket.
We are not using a socket that has isolated switching
mainly because they are not commonly available. These
also have the disadvantage of stressing the PCB connections each time a jack plug is inserted, especially if the jack
is moved at an angle to the socket. This eventually causes
the solder joints to harden and break.
While the sockets we use also solder directly to the PCB,
the body is secured to the case at the socket entry as well.
That keeps the socket fixed in place against the enclosure
side, minimising movement of the solder joints.
Power is automatically selected between 9V battery or
DC supply. When there is no DC power plug inserted, the
DC socket (CON3) will supply battery power via its normally-closed switch connecting, the negative of the battery to ground. When a power plug is inserted, power is
via the DC input and the battery negative is disconnected.
30
Silicon Chip
Power switch S1 connects power to the rest of the circuit
whether via the battery or an external source, while diode
D1 provides reverse-polarity protection.
REG1 is a low-dropout 3.3V regulator which supplies IC4,
IC5 and IC6 (if used). The input and output pins of REG1
are bypassed with 100µF capacitors. Its output drives the
power LED (LED1) via a 200Ω resistor.
Construction
The Digital FX Pedal is built using a double-sided, plated-through-hole PCB measuring 86 x 112mm. The version
using the BCD switch is coded 01102212, while the version using potentiometer VR8 is coded 01102211. Either
way, it is housed in a diecast enclosure measuring 119 x
94 x 34mm.
Figs.3 & 4 are the two PCB overlay diagrams for the different versions. Refer to the appropriate diagram during
construction to see which parts go where.
Begin by fitting the surface-mount parts, IC1-IC5 (and
possibly IC6), on the top side of the PCB. These are not
difficult to solder using a fine-tipped soldering iron. Good
close up vision is necessary, so you might need to use a
magnifying lens or glasses. If you’re using the version with
potentiometer VR8, also mount IC6 now.
In each case, make sure the chip is orientated correctly before soldering it in place. Make sure that IC1-IC3 are
the OPA1662 op amps, IC5 is the 24LC32A and IC6 is the
PIC12F1571 (if used). For each device, solder one pad first
Australia’s electronics magazine
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the DC socket, CON3.
Switch S1 must be mounted so that the lever is captured
under the front sleeve contact of jack socket CON2. We
have provided slotted holes so that the switch can be inserted and slid along until the lever slips under the contact.
Check that the switch is open-circuit between the two
outside pins when there is no jack plug inserted, and closed
between the two outer pins when a jack plug is inserted.
The lever might need to be bent a little so that the switch
works reliably, switching at the centre of the travel between
the open and closed position of the CON2 jack contact.
Mount foot switch S2 and rotary switch S3 (if used)
now. Make sure these are seated fully and not skewed before soldering.
Leave the LEDs until later, when the PCB is mounted
in the case.
The next step is to cut the battery wires to 60mm, then
crimp or solder them to the plug pins. Insert these pins
into the plug shell, making sure you get the red and black
wires in the correct position. When you plug it in, the red
wire should go to the terminal marked + on the PCB, adjacent to D1’s anode.
It’s necessary for the GND terminal on the board to be
connected to the case, to prevent hum injection via the enclosure. Cut a 50mm length of green medium-duty wire,
solder a solder lug to one end and the other to the GND
terminal on the PCB. It’s a good idea to place some heatshrink tubing over the lug terminal and the GND PC stake.
When assembled, the solder lug is secured to the case
using an M3 x 6mm screw, star washer and M3 nut.
Powering up and testing
Same-size photo of the switched version, the version at right
opposite. The cutout is for a 9V battery, as shown.
and check its alignment. Readjust the component positioning by reheating the solder joint if necessary before soldering the remaining pins.
Continue construction by installing the resistors (use your
DMM to check their values), followed by the ferrite bead
(FB1). Use a resistor lead off-cut to feed through the bead
and solder to the board. Push the bead lead fully down so
that it sits flush against the PCB before soldering its leads,
so it doesn’t rattle later. Diode D1 can be installed next.
Take care to orientate it correctly.
The MKT and ceramic capacitors can now go in, followed
by the electrolytic capacitors. The electrolytics are polarised, so they must be orientated with the correct polarity;
the longer lead goes into the hole marked with a + symbol.
Install potentiometers VR1-VR7 (and VR8 if used), noting
that VR4 is 100kΩ and the remainder are 10kΩ. The 10kΩ
potentiometers may be marked as 103, while the 100kΩ
pot may be marked 104.
Crystal X1 can now be fitted, along with CON5, the
6-way header EEPROM programming connection. Next,
mount REG1 with its leads bent over so that the regulator
body lies above VR4. Make sure it does not lean so far as
to make contact with the metal parts of VR4. A 45° angle
to the PCB face will prevent contact with the enclosure
and VR4’s body.
Also install the PC stake at the GND test point, and the
two-way polarised header for the battery lead (CON4) now.
Follow by fitting the two jack sockets (CON1 & CON2) and
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If you are planning to use a battery, connect this now.
Alternatively, connect a DC supply (9-12V DC). Plug a
jack lead into CON2 to switch on the power. Then, using
a multimeter set to read DC volts, connect the negative
probe to the GND point and measure the regulator input
and output voltages.
The input should be about 0.3V below the battery or DC
supply voltage. The regulator output should be between
3.267V and 3.333V.
If that checks out, you can connect up a signal source
and some sort of amplifier, fiddle with the knobs, and check
that they appear to be working as intended.
Housing
The PCB is housed inside a 119 x 94 x 34mm diecast aluminium enclosure. We use the lid as the base, with the
controls protruding through the main enclosure body. Use
the drilling template, Fig.5, to make the required holes in
the base. You can also download this as a PDF from the
SILICON CHIP website.
The only differences for the two versions are that the
board with a potentiometer needs an extra 3mm hole for
LED4, and the shaft hole is 6mm rather than 10mm.
Cut-outs are also required in the side for the two jack
sockets and DC power socket. The template shows the slots
required for the jack sockets so they can be slid in place.
The resulting gaps in the side of the enclosure, after the
jack sockets are inserted, can be filled in. These can be
covered with a small blanking piece made from a 45mm
x 9mm piece of 1mm thick (or up to 1.5mm) aluminium.
You can also glue shaped plastic or aluminium ‘infill’
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 31
Fig.5: same-size drilling diagrams for both the
mechanical switching version (top left) and the
potentiometer switching version (lower left). End
drilling and blanking, or infill pieces are the same
for both versions. These diagrams can also be
downloaded from siliconchip.com.au
32
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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There are quite a few holes to be drilled in the diecast box
– see the drilling template (Fig.5, opposite) for details. Note
also the “infill”, or blanking, piece – this helps seal the box
after the PCB is placed in it.
And speaking of placing the PCB, this photo shows how it’s
done Ignore the tacked-on components in our prototype:
PCBs have these additions already made. Note, though, the
four resistors top left are required in the switched version.
pieces to the rectangular backing piece for the neatest
possible appearance, as shown in Fig.5.
If doing this, cut a piece 31 x 12mm or a little larger, then
drill a 12mm diameter hole in the centre. Once carefully
filed, the piece will break apart so there will be two pieces
that match the gaps in the enclosure.
For the enclosure feet, you can stick rubber feet on the
‘lid’. Alternatively, you can replace the original lid securing
screws with Nylon M4 screws. The Nylon screw head then
acts as the feet. To allow this, the holes in the enclosure for
the original mounting screws will need to be drilled out to
3.5mm, and tapped using an M4 thread tap.
ink will be between the enclosure and film when affixed.
Use projector film suitable for your printer (either inkjet
or laser) and affix it using clear neutral-cure silicone. Roof
and gutter silicone is suitable.
Squeegee out the lumps and air bubbles before the silicone cures. Once cured, cut out the holes through the film
with a hobby or craft knife. For more detail on making labels, see siliconchip.com.au/Help/FrontPanels
Panel labels
The front and side panel label artwork is available for
download from our website. The two side panels show the
effects available (1-8 & 9-16). These can be affixed to the
sides of the enclosure. Note that there are two front panel labels and you need to select the one which suits your
build (rotary switch or pot).
A rugged front panel can be made using overhead projector film, with the label printed as a mirror-image so the
Final assembly
Attach the 9mm-long M3 tapped spacers to the underside of the PCB. These are located just behind CON1 and
CON2, and between VR5 and VR6. Secure them using an
M3 screw from the top of the PCB. The spacer keeps the
PCB in place by resting on the lid when the case is assembled. For the version using VR8, there is another 9mm M3
tapped spacer required near VR8.
The ground lug mounting position is adjacent to the DC
socket. This is secured using an M3 screw, star washer and
nut before the PCB is inserted into the case. Have the solder lug orientated so that the wire is closest to the enclosure base, so it does not foul the components on the PCB.
Before mounting the PCB in the enclosure, insert the LEDs
into the PCB (longer leads to anode pads, marked “A”).
Place the Nylon washers for the footswitch onto its shaft
before inserting the PCB into its position in the enclosure.
Then feed the LEDs into the bezels to capture them. Solder the LED leads from the rear of the PCB and trim them.
The battery compartment is the rectangular cut-out on
the PCB. The battery can be prevented from moving with
some foam packing sandwiched between the end of the
battery and the PCB’s edge. If you are not using the battery
option, remove or fully insulate the battery clip at CON3
to prevent the contacts shorting onto a part of the circuit.
Knobs
An upside-down view of the finished project: the box base
becomes the front panel (with appropriate label) and the
box lid, with four Nylon screws used as feet, becomes the
base. Labels fixed to each side make effect selection simple.
siliconchip.com.au
Since the potentiometer shafts do not protrude much
more than 9mm above the panel, standard knobs with a skirt
to cover a potentiometer securing nut will not have sufficient internal fluting length to keep the knobs secured. So
use knobs that don’t have the skirt, as listed in the parts list.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 33
POWER
POWER
(Jack plug inserted)
(Jack plug inserted)
Clip
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Fig.6 (above): front panels for the two
Patch
Effect
Adjustment C
Adjustment B
versions of the project – on the right
1
Chorus-reverb
Chorus mix
Chorus rate
is the potentiometer-selected version
2 Adjustment
Flange-reverb
Flange
mix
rate
Patch
Effect
C
Adjustment
B
Adjustment Flange
A
while the left panel is for the switch
3
Tremolo-reverb
Tremolo
mix
Tremolo
rate
1
Chorus-reverb
Chorus
mix
Chorus
rate
Reverb
mix
selected. Once again, this artwork can be
2
Flange-reverb 4 FlangePitch
mix shift Flange rate
Reverb mix downloaded from siliconchip.com.au
3
Tremolo-reverb
Tremolo mix
Tremolo rate
Reverb mix
4
5
6
7
8
Pitch shift
Pitch echo
Test
Reverb 1
Reverb 2
5
6
7
8
Patch
Fig.7 (right): the side labels arePatch
identical
Effect
9
for both versions and show at a9 glance
Octaver
10
Pitch shift glider
what the various combinations10achieve.
11
11
Oil
can
delay
Label 1-8 should be fixed to one side and
12
12
Soft clip overdrive
label 9-16 to the other side.
13
Bass distortion 13
14
15
16
Pitch echo
Test
Echo mix
Reverb 1
Reverb 2
Low filter
Low filter
14
Aliaser
Wah
15
Faux phase shifter
16
Effect
Silicon Chip
Echo delay
Adjustment C
Adjustment B
+
1
14
15
16
T
C
H
Adjustment A
Reverb mix
Reverb mix
Reverb
mix
Side
panels
+/- ~4 semitones
Pitch shift
Reverb time
Reverb time
Adjustment
C
Adjustment
B octave
Adjustment
Octaver
Down
level A
Up octave level
DownPitch
octaveshift
levelglider
Up octaveGlide
level
Dry mix
Depth
Glide
Depth
Oil can delay
FeedbackRate
Chorus width
Feedback
Chorus width
Time rate
Volume
Tone Soft clip overdrive
Volume Tone
Gain threshold
Bass
Dry/wet mix
Tone
Dry/wet
mixdistortion
Tone
Gain
Aliaser
Sample rate Filter Q
Sensitivity
Wah
Filter Q Reverb
Sensitivity
Feedback
level
Faux
phase Time
shifter FeedbackSpeed
levelwidthTime
For the PCB version that uses the rotary switch, you
will need to cut the switch shaft, leaving sufficient length
for the knob to attach securely close to the panel. Also, a
flat will need to be filed on the side of the shaft to form a
D-shape suitable for the knob. This will need to be carefully filed so it is a tight fit. The knob pointer will also need
to be prised off and orientated correctly.
Knob pointer orientation is best found during the testing
procedure. While 15 of the 16 positions will give an effect,
position six is the test position, and the output signal closely matches the input signal. With the knob rotated to this
position, adjust the pointer to line up with 6.
Another way is to measure the voltage at the A, B, C and
D points at pins 16, 17, 18 and 13 of IC4 when powered
34
Echo mix
+/- ~4 semitones
Echo delay
Pitch shift
Low
filter
High filter
High filterLow filterReverb timeHigh filter
High filter
Reverb time
3
2
Adjustment A
Dry mix
Rate
Time rate
Gain threshold
Gain
Sample rate
Reverb
Speed width
up. Position 1 is when all of these are at 0V.
Finally, secure the lid in place using either the original screws or Nylon M4 screws, as mentioned previously.
Stick rubber feet to the base if you are not using the Nylon
screws as ‘feet’.
Removing the knobs
After installation, the knobs are likely to be difficult to
remove. You will need to lever them off; make sure the lever
(such as a flat-bladed screwdriver) is against a packing piece
placed on the front panel to prevent damage to the panel.
Usage
Note that some patches available in the default selec-
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
S
Parts list – Digital FX Unit
1 double-sided PCB coded 01102212, 86 x 112mm*
[SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP 01102212]
3 panel labels (one front, two sides – see opposite)
1 diecast aluminium enclosure 119 x 94 x 34mm
[Jaycar HB5067]
2 6.35mm PCB-mount jack sockets (CON1,CON2)
[Jaycar PS0195]
1 PC-mount barrel socket, 2.1mm or 2.5mm ID (CON3)
[Jaycar PS0520, Altronics P0621A]
1 2-pin vertical polarised header, 2.54mm spacing (CON4)
[Jaycar HM3412, Altronics P5492]
1 2-pin polarised plug (CON4)
[Jaycar HM3402, Altronics P5472 and 2 x P5470A pins]
1 6-way pin header with 2.54mm spacings (CON5)
1 C&K ZMA03A150L30PC microswitch or equivalent (S1)
[eg Jaycar SM1036]
1 3PDT footswitch (S2) [Jaycar SP0766, Altronics S1155]
1 Lorlin BCK1001 16-way 4-bit binary-coded switch* (S3)
[RS Components 655-3162]
6 B10kΩ linear pots (VR1-VR3,VR5-VR7) [Altronics R1946]
1 B100kΩ linear pot (VR4) [Altronics R1948]
7 11.5mm-diameter 18 tooth spline (6mm) knobs (see text
for special requirements)
[Altronics H6560, RS Components 299-4783]
1 13mm-diameter D-shaft knob* [Jaycar HK7717]
1 ferrite RF suppression bead 4mm OD x 5mm (FB1)
[Altronics L5250A, Jaycar LF1250]
1 40kHz crystal (X1)
[Citizen CFV-20640000AZFB or similar; RS components
1849668]
1 9V battery clip lead (optional)
1 9V battery (optional)
1 PC stake (GND point)
1 solder lug (for grounding the enclosure)
4 M4 x 10mm Nylon screws or stick-on rubber feet (see text)
2 9mm-long M3 tapped Nylon standoffs (support for PCB
rear)
3 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws (for solder lug and
standoffs)
1 M3 nut and star washer (for solder lug)
1 50mm length of medium-duty green hookup wire
1 6.3mm mono jack plug or jack-to-jack lead (for testing)
Semiconductors
3 OPA1662AID dual op amps, SOIC-8 (IC1-IC3)
[RS Components 825-8424]
1 SPN1001-FV1 digital FX processor, wide SOIC-28 (IC4)
[www.profusionplc.com/parts/spn1001-fv1]
tions use the A, B and C parameter adjustments while other patches only use adjustment A. Also, some effects give
you control over the effect/dry mix while others do not.
See the side panel labels (opposite) for details.
When the effects parameters include a mix control, the
main dry mix control should be set fully anticlockwise,
the effects mix control set fully clockwise, and the mixing
done with the parameter mix control(s).
Where an effect has no mixing control, the dry mix level
adjustment provided can be used instead.
When connecting to an amplifier, it should have a switch
siliconchip.com.au
1 24LC32A-I/SN EEPROM, SOIC-8, programmed with
0110221A.hex (IC5)
1 1N5819 1A schottky diode (D1)
1 LD1117V33C 3.3V low-dropout regulator (REG1)
[RS Components 6869767]
1 3mm high-intensity green LEDs (LED1)
2 3mm high-intensity red LEDs (LED2, LED3)
Capacitors
4 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 22µF 16V PC electrolytic
4 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 4.7µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 1µF 16V PC electrolytic
5 100nF MKT polyester
2 1.2nF MKT polyester
1 1nF MKT polyester
2 560pF ceramic
2 100pF NP0/C0G ceramic
1 15pF NP0/C0G ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% metal film axial)
1 1MΩ
(Code brown black black yellow brown)
1 100kΩ
(Code brown black black orange brown)
2 20kΩ
(Code red black black red brown)
12 10kΩ*
(Code brown black black red brown)
1 1kΩ
(Code brown black black brown brown)
3 200Ω
(Code red black black black brown)
3 100Ω
(Code brown black black red brown)
Parts for version using a potentiometer for effects selection
(delete items marked * above)
1 double-sided, plated-through PCB coded 01102211,
measuring 86 x 112mm
1 B10kΩ linear potentiometer (VR8) [Altronics R1946]
1 11.5mm-diameter 18 tooth spline (6mm) knob (see text for
special requirements)
[Altronics H6560, RS Components 299-4783]
1 9mm-long M3 tapped Nylon standoff (support for rear of PCB)
1 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screw (for standoff)
1 PIC12F1571-I/SN 8-bit microcontroller programmed with
0110221A.hex, SOIC-8 (IC6)
1 2N7000 N-channel small-signal Mosfet (Q1)
1 3mm high-intensity red LED (LED4)
2 100nF MKT polyester capacitors
1 1.2MΩ 1/4W 5% carbon axial resistor
8 10kΩ 1/4W 1% metal film axial resistors
1 200Ω 1/4W 1% metal film axial resistor
that allows the jack’s shield connection to be either Earthed
or floating. A guitar with piezo pickups should have less
hum when the switch is selected to connect to Earth.
Next month
We’ll have a follow-up article next month that describes
how to create and load your own effects into the EEPROM
chip, changing the nature of effect selections 8-15.
This can be done using freely available software and a
Microchip PICkit 2 or PICkit 3 programmer.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 35
Full
Wave
Universal Motor
Speed Controller
Want exceptionally smooth speed control over the entire range for
your power tool? You want our new Universal Motor Speed
Controller. It is ideal for use with mains-powered electric drills,
lawn edgers, whipper snippers, circular saws, routers or any other
appliance with universal (ie, brush-type) motors, rated up to 10A.
By JOHN CLARKE
O
ur latest Full Wave Universal Motor Speed ControlWe have also added the ability to switch the soft-start fealer is an upgrade on the one we published in March ture off, also via an external switch. Soft start is useful when
2018. That one worked very well, but we identified the speed controller is set at a certain speed and the motor
several upgrades and improved features that could be made is switched on and off at the appliance. When the appliance
to the design.
is switched on, the motor speed is slowly and automatically
One of the main drawbacks of the previous design was brought up to the set speed. Without it, power to the motor
that the feedback gain control was located inside the Con- is suddenly applied, and the motor can kick back.
troller’s housing. That control set the amount of compensaSoft start is essential when using the Controller with a
tion for maintaining motor speed under load.
high-powered router or circular saw. For smaller appliancOnce set, the Controles, and when the moler was only suitable
tor is switched on and
for the appliance being
off often, you might
This Speed Controller operates directly from the 230V AC mains
used, since the feedback
find that it limits how
supply and contact with any live component is potentially lethal.
control would require
fast you can work, as
Do not build it unless you know what you are doing.
changing for different
you wait for the motor
DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE CIRCUIT WHILE IT IS
motors.
to come up to speed.
PLUGGED INTO A MAINS OUTLET and never operate it
This control is now exThat would be the
outside its Earthed metal case or without the lid attached.
ternally adjustable via a
case when used with
This circuit is not suitable for use with induction motors and must
control knob, making it
a whipper snipper and
only be used with universal ‘brush type’ (series-wound) motors or
easy to use the Control- shaded pole (fan) motors with nameplate ratings up to 10A. For more
some hand drills. So
ler across a range of difwe made it so you can
information, see the section titled “What motors can be controlled”.
Power tools with inbuilt fans must not be operated at low speeds for
ferent power tools and
easily switch the soft
extended periods; otherwise, they could overheat.
other devices.
start feature off. While
WARNING!
36
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
we were making those changes, we took the opportunity to improve its ability to maintain motor speed
under load, especially at low speed settings and for
low-power appliances.
The Full Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller
can be used with mains supplies over the range of 220250V AC at 50Hz or 60Hz. This means that it can be
used in many different countries, although it is not
suitable for use with 100-120V AC mains supplies.
The Controller is mounted in a relatively low-profile
diecast aluminium case with mains plug and socket
leads attached to one end, through cable glands. A panel fuse is also provided on the same end of the case.
The speed control and feedback gain potentiometers, and soft start switch, are mounted on the lid.
Features
* For universal and shaded-pole motors rated up to 10A
* Runs from 220-250V AC at 50Hz or 60Hz
* Full-wave motor speed control
* Full speed range (from nearly zero to close to 100%)
* Current feedback for maintaining speed under load
* Feedback gain adjustment
* Optional soft start from zero speed and at power-up
* Optimised control for inductive loads such as motors
Why do you need speed control?
Most power tools will do a better job if they have speed
control. For example, electric drills should be slowed down
when using larger drill bits as they make a cleaner cut.
Similarly, it is useful to be able to slow down routers, jigsaws and even circular saws when cutting some materials,
particularly plastics, as many will melt rather than be cut
if the speed is too high. The same comments apply to sanding and polishing tools, and even electric lawn trimmers;
they are less likely to snap their lines when slowed down.
What motors can be controlled?
This Controller suits the vast majority of power tools and
appliances. These generally use universal motors which are
series-wound motors with brushes. They’re called universal motors because they can operate on both AC and DC.
You cannot control the speed of any universal motor which
already has an electronic speed control built in, whether
part of the trigger mechanism or with a separate speed dial.
That does not include tools such as electric drills which
have a two-position mechanical speed switch. In that case,
you can use our speed controller with the mechanical switch
set to fast or slow. The slow selection usually drives the motor with a half-wave voltage.
Scope1: the output waveform (Active voltage, in cyan) at a
higher speed setting with a resistive load (a light bulb). You
can see that the output voltage matches the input voltage
most of the time, so the attached load will receive almost
full power and, if a motor, will run at high speed.
siliconchip.com.au
Induction motors (except shaded-pole types, which are often found in fans and such) must not be used with this speed
controller. How do you make sure that your power tool or
appliance is a universal motor and not an induction motor?
One clue is that most universal motors are quite noisy compared to induction motors. However, this is only a guide,
and it’s certainly not foolproof.
In many power tools, you can see that the motor has brushes and a commutator (usually through the cooling vents) and
you can see sparks from the brushes during operation. That
indicates that the motor is a universal type. But if you can’t
see the brushes, you can also get a clue from the nameplate
or the instruction booklet.
Most induction motors used in domestic appliances will
be 2-pole or 4-pole types which operate at a fixed speed, typically 2850 RPM for a 2-pole unit or 1440 RPM for a 4-pole
unit. The speed will be on the nameplate. Bench grinders
typically use two-pole induction motors.
If you do need to control the speed of this type of motor,
use the 1.5kW Induction Motor Controller published in April
and May 2012 (siliconchip.com.au/Series/25) with important modifications in the December 2012 issue.
Phase control
The AC mains voltage closely follows a sinewave. It starts
at 0V, rises to a peak, falls back to 0V, then does the same
Scope2: by triggering the Triac later in each mains halfcycle, the output voltage (cyan) is zero most of the time,
and the load power is greatly reduced. This will cause an
attached motor to spin quite slowly, as the average applied
voltage will be low.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 37
Specifications
* Power: 230V AC sinewave up to 10A
* Operating frequency: any fixed frequency
between 40Hz and 70Hz
* Soft start rate: two seconds from start to full speed
* Triac gate drive: 68mA
* Triac gate pulses, phase angle <90°:
40µs gate pulses repeated at 200µs intervals
thing in the opposite direction. This repeats 50 times per second for 50Hz mains, or 60 times per second for 60Hz mains.
A motor connected to the mains makes full use of the energy from each cycle so that it runs at its maximum speed.
So if supplied only a portion of this sinewave to the motor, with less energy available to power it, the motor would
not run so fast.
Varying the time during each half-cycle when voltage is
applied to the motor gives speed control. This is the basis
of phase control: start feeding power very early in the cycle, and the motor runs fast; delay power until much later
in the cycle, and it runs more slowly.
The term ‘phase control’ comes about because the timing
of the trigger pulses is varied with respect to the phase of
the mains sinewave. Several devices can be used to switch
the mains voltage; here, we are using a Triac. That device
can be used to switch both the positive and negative voltage excursions of the mains waveform.
The oscilloscope traces show phase control varying the
power to an incandescent light bulb, as this shows phase
control in its pure form, without the extra hash caused by
driving a motor.
Scope1 shows the chopped waveform from the phase
control circuit when the incandescent light bulb is driven
at high brightness. This is equivalent to driving a motor at
a fast speed. Here, the Triac is triggered 2.5ms after the zero-crossing (the point where the mains waveform passes
through 0V).
The voltage applied to the load is the cyan trace, and
measures 200V RMS. That is less than the 219V RMS mains
waveform shown by the yellow trace.
Scope2 shows the waveform from the phase controller
driving a light bulb at a lower setting, with the Triac triggered later in the cycle. The voltage applied to the load is
now much less at 87.9V RMS.
Scope3 shows the waveform when driving a motor. The
lower blue trace is the voltage applied to the motor, with
the input mains shown on the top (yellow) trace. Note the
extra hash on the lower trace due to the motor being an inductive load.
Speed control
For a motor to have good low-speed performance, the
Controller needs to compensate for any drop in motor speed
as the load increases.
Many phase-based speed controllers rely upon the fact
that a motor can be used as a generator when it is spinning
with no power applied. When the motor is loaded and the
motor speed slows, the back-EMF (electromotive force)
produced by the motor drops, and the circuit compensates
by providing more of the mains voltage cycle to the motor,
38
Silicon Chip
Scope3: the same speed setting as shown in Scope2, but this
time with a motor attached. The inductance of the motor
windings causes the Triac to switch off after the zero-crossing
due to the output current phase shift from its reactance.
triggering the Triac earlier in the mains cycle.
But in practice, the-back EMF generated by most series
motors while the Triac is not conducting is either very low
or non-existent. This is partly because there is no field current, and the generation of voltage is only due to remnant
magnetism in the motor core. If there is any back-EMF
produced, it is too late after the end of each half-cycle to
have a worthwhile effect on the circuit triggering in the
next half-cycle.
So we use a different method for speed regulation, by
monitoring the current through the motor. When a motor
is unloaded, it draws a certain amount of current to keep
itself running.
When the motor is loaded, the motor speed drops and
the current draw increases. The motor controller senses
this, and compensates for this speed drop by increasing
the voltage to the motor.
This might sound like positive feedback, where the detection of more current drawn will increase the voltage and so
allow the motor to draw more current. It’s true that this can
happen if the amount of compensation is too high, which
is why we include a feedback control knob, to adjust the
compensation gain.
With the right setting, the speed regulation is very impressive, but too much feedback will have the motor increasing in speed with increased load instead of maintaining the set speed.
Controlling a Triac with an inductive load
One major problem when using a Triac for full-wave
control of a motor is the way a Triac switches off and the
nature of the motor load. A Triac is usually switched on
by applying a current to its gate. If the current flowing between the Triac’s main terminals is greater than its holding
current, the Triac will remain switched on for the remainder of the mains cycle.
A Triac will only switch off when the gate is not being
driven and the Triac current drops below its holding current. As a motor is not a purely resistive load, but instead
has a significant inductance, the motor current lags the voltage. That means that a Triac driving a motor will not nec-
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Scope4: the first stage of the precision full-wave rectifier
works as a half-wave rectifier with an output voltage
half that of the input. Both signals (original and clipped/
attenuated) are fed into the second stage and combined to
produce the output shown in Scope5.
Scope5: the final output waveform of the precision full-wave
rectifier is in cyan. It is identical to the yellow trace, except
that the negative portions have become positive voltages, so
that it can be fed to a single-ended ADC for measurement.
essarily switch off at the zero-crossing; motor current can
continue to flow until sometime after.
Our circuit uses a microcontroller to produce the required
gate pulses to correctly drive an inductive load like a motor
using a Triac. It feeds a series of gate pulses to the Triac to
provide for the full range of phase control.
time the Triac turns off. The snubber network acts to damp
transients and reduce their amplitude.
The DC supply for the microcontroller is derived directly from the 230V AC mains supply via a 470nF 275VAC X2
rated capacitor in series with a 1kΩ 5W resistor. The capacitor’s impedance limits the average current drawn from
the mains, while the 1kΩ resistor limits the surge current
when power is first applied.
When the Neutral line is positive with respect to Active,
current flows via the 470nF capacitor, diode D1 and 47Ω
resistor to the 1000μF capacitor to charge it up. On negative half-cycles, the current through the 470nF capacitor is
reversed and flows through diode D2, discharging the capacitor back into the mains.
Zener diode ZD1 limits the voltage across the 1000µF capacitor to 5.1V. This is the supply for microcontroller IC1,
op amps IC2a and IC2b, and for the gate current of Triac
Q1. IC1’s 5.1V supply is bypassed with a 100nF capacitor
while IC2 is bypassed with 100uF.
Switch S1 allows the soft-start feature to be enabled or
disabled. This switch controls the input level of the GP3
input (pin 4). When S1 is open, the GP3 input is held high
at 5.1V via a 47kΩ resistor, so soft start is disabled. When
switch S1 is closed, GP3 is pulled low, and the program
runs the soft-start routine.
S1 pulls GP3 low via a 100Ω resistor, which is included
to protect the input from current transients that could cause
latch-up in the IC. The 100nF capacitor provides a low impedance to transients, preventing incorrect detection of the
GP3 input when S1 is open due to transients or interference.
VR1 is the speed potentiometer, and it is connected across
the 5.1V supply. IC1 converts the voltage from VR1’s wiper
into a digital value using its internal analog-to-digital converter (ADC). The 100kΩ resistor from the wiper to ground
holds the AN1 input at 0V, setting the motor speed to zero
should VR1’s wiper go open-circuit.
Potentiometer VR2 is connected similarly. Its wiper voltage sets the feedback gain to maintain motor speed under
load. It is also converted to a digital value within IC1. The
capacitors at the wiper of VR1 and VR2 provide a low source
impedance to IC1’s ADC, and to filter out supply ripple.
Circuit description
The Speed Controller circuit is shown in Fig.1. Its key
components are Triac Q1 and PIC12F617 microcontroller
IC1.
IC1 monitors the speed potentiometer, VR1, at its analog input AN1 (pin 6) and the feedback gain potentiometer, VR2, at AN0 (pin 7). It also monitors the motor current
at analog input AN3 (pin 3), with that signal originating
at current transformer T1 and passing through a full-wave
rectifier based around IC2. The mains voltage waveform is
monitored for zero crossings at pin 5, via a 330kΩ resistor.
In response to all those parameters, IC1 produces a series
of pulses at its digital output GP5 (pin 2), and these drive
the base of NPN transistor Q2 which, in turn, sinks current
from the gate of Triac Q1. The Triac gate current flows via
the 47Ω resistor connected between the 5.1V supply and the
Triac’s A1 terminal, then out through the gate and to circuit
ground via Q1 (ie, the gate current is negative).
This method of connection places the 47Ω resistor between the 230V AC mains supply and the 5.1V supply which
runs the PIC microcontroller. This avoids Triac switching
noise getting into the 5.1V supply, which can cause the microcontroller to latch-up.
Snubber
The snubber network comprises two 220Ω 1W resistors
in series and a 220nF 275V AC X2-rated capacitor connected between the A1 and A2 terminals of the Triac. This
network prevents rapid changes in voltage from being applied to Triac Q1, which would otherwise cause it to turn
on (due to dV/dt switching) when it is supposed to be off.
These rapid changes in voltage can occur when power
is first applied, or can come from voltage transients generated by the inductance of the motor being controlled each
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 39
Both VR1 and VR2 are connected
to IC1 via screw connectors. CON2
provides the common +5V and 0V
connections for VR1 and VR2, while
VR1’s wiper also connects to CON2.
CON3 provides the wiper connection
for VR2, with switch S1 utilising the
remaining two connections in CON3.
Mains synchronisation
The timing of the Triac’s trigger pulses is critical to its correct operation. IC1
monitors the mains voltage at its pin
5, with the 330kΩ resistor connecting
to Neutral plus a 4.7nF low-pass filter
capacitor.
An interrupt routine is triggered
in IC1 whenever the voltage at pin
5 changes from a high to a low level
or vice versa. The interrupt tells IC1
that the mains voltage has just passed
through 0V, so it can synchronise its
gate triggering with the mains waveform.
The phase lag introduced by the
4.7nF capacitor is compensated for
within IC1’s software, as is the asymmetry of the triggering due to the 5V
difference between low and high levels.
Current feedback
T1 is a current transformer comprising a ferrite toroid with a two-turn primary winding in series with the Triac.
The secondary winding has 1000 turns,
and it is loaded with a 510Ω resistor.
With this loading, the transformer produces 800mV per amp of load current
at the secondary output. This is proportional to the current through the
motor being controlled.
Its output signal is applied to a precision full-wave rectifier comprising
IC2a and IC2b. This configuration is
unusual in that it does not use any
diodes. Most precision rectifiers with
diodes require a negative supply for
the op amps. While we could have
incorporated a negative supply, it
would increase the circuit complexity and cost.
The full-wave rectifier operation relies on op amps that have specific characteristics. The first is that the op amp
output has to swing fully to the negative supply rail (ie, all the way down
to 0V). Also, this 0V output must be
maintained when the input to the op
amp drops below 0V. The LMC6482 op
amp (IC2a and IC2b in the circuit) has
these characteristics, as well as a low
supply current.
40
Silicon Chip
We have labelled several points in
the circuit and shown the expected
waveforms to help explain how this
section works. The signal from the
transformer secondary appears at point
A. This signal swings above and below
0V as shown. The signal flows along
two paths from here. One is through
the 20kΩ resistor to point D, and the
other through the two series-connected 100kΩ resistors to 0V.
IC2b is connected as a unity gain
buffer. The op amp’s internal diode
will clamp any voltage at the non-inverting input (pin 5) below -0.3V. Its
output (pin 7) will be at 0V whenever
its input is 0V or less.
The operation of this part of the circuit is best explained by describing
the signal flow for the negative and
positive excursions of the waveform
separately.
Negative portion
When the voltage at point A is negative, the voltage at point B is clamped to
-0.3V by the internal protection diode
at the pin 5 input of IC2b. The output
of IC2b at pin 7 (point C) is therefore
at 0V, and so is the non-inverting input to IC2a.
As a result, IC2a acts as an inverting amplifier with a gain of -1. This is
set by the input 20kΩ resistor and the
20kΩ feedback resistor from the pin 1
output to the inverting input at pin 2.
So IC2a will produce a positive voltage
at its output pin 1, proportional to the
negative voltage at point A.
To understand how this works, consider that the op amp operates to keep
the voltages at its inputs equal. As the
non-inverting input is held at 0V, with
equal value resistors in the feedback
path forming a 1:1 divider, the output
voltage (E) must have equal magnitude
and opposite polarity compared to the
input voltage (A) for the inverting input voltage (D) to be at 0V.
So for example, when point A is at
-1V, point E will be +1V, so point D
will be at 0V, equal to C.
Note that the 10kΩ resistor at point
D does not have any effect in this case,
since pin 2 is at 0V, and therefore there
is no voltage across that resistor. It has
a function only during positive signal
excursions.
Positive portion
For positive voltages at point A, the
voltage at point B will be half the voltage of point A due to the 100kΩ/100kΩ
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resistive divider. Point C and the
non-inverting input to IC2a will also
be half the applied voltage at A, as IC2b
is acting as a buffer.
Remember that usually, the inverting input voltage will be the same as
the non-inverting input. The op amp
will ensure this by adjusting its output
so it can maintain that voltage via the
feedback resistor.
The only way that can happen for
IC2a in this case is when the op amp
output at point E is the same as the signal input at point A. In that case, the
same voltage is applied to both 20kΩ
resistors and they are essentially in
parallel, forming an equivalent 10kΩ
resistor to point D. This forms a 1:1 divider with the 10kΩ resistor from point
D to ground, halving the voltage at this
point compared to points A & E.
So to conclude. IC2a provides the
same positive voltage at its output E
as the input at A during positive excursions. During negative excursions,
IC2a instead inverts the voltage. So
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Motor Speed Controller uses current sense transformer T1 and op amps IC2a & IC2b (operating as a full-wave
precision rectifier) to sense the motor current. IC1 adjusts the gate pulses from its pin 2 output to the gate of Triac Q1 to
maintain a more-or-less constant motor speed under load
the output of IC2a is positive for both
negative and positive inputs at point
A. Thus, we have a full-wave rectifier.
Its output is low-pass filtered using a
4.7kΩ resistor and 10µF capacitor for a
smooth DC output that’s then applied
to the AN3 analog input of IC1, ready
to be digitised.
Scope4 shows a sinewave signal at
point A (in yellow) and the lower blue
trace shows waveform C, the half-amplitude positive waveform output.
When waveform A goes below 0V,
waveform C stays at 0V.
Scope5 shows the same sinewave
signal at A in yellow, and the fullwave rectified output at E in the lower blue trace.
Construction
Most components for the Full Wave
Universal Motor Speed Controller
are mounted on a double-sided, plated-through PCB (printed circuit board)
coded 10102211 and measuring 103 x
81mm. This is mounted inside a diesiliconchip.com.au
cast box measuring 119 x 94 x 34mm.
Follow the PCB overlay diagram,
Fig.2. Begin by installing the resistors
except for the 5W type. The resistor
colour codes are shown in a table, but
you should also double-check each resistor using a digital multimeter. Following this, fit the diodes, which must
be orientated as shown. There are two
different diode types: 1N4004 for D1
and D2, and zener diode ZD1 is a 5.1V
1W type (1N4733).
IC1 is mounted on an 8-pin DIL
socket so install this socket now, taking care to orientate it correctly, with
the notch facing towards the top of the
PCB. Leave IC1 out for the time being,
though; we’ll fit it later on. IC2 can
be installed on a socket or directly on
the PCB. Additionally, Q2 can be installed now.
Place the capacitors next. The MKT
and polypropylene types are usually
printed with a code indicating their
value. These are all shown in the
parts list.
Australia’s electronics magazine
By contrast, electrolytic capacitors
are almost always marked with their
value in μF, along with their polarity.
Typically, the negative lead is marked
with a stripe. They must be inserted
with the polarity shown.
The screw terminals are next. The
3-way terminal blocks for CON2 and
CON3 are installed with the lead entries facing each other, while CON1
does not have a specific orientation.
Then fit the 5W resistor about 1mm
above the PCB for improved cooling.
Finally (for now), install current
transformer T1. It does not matter
which way it is orientated. Triac Q1
will be fitted later.
Cut the underside pigtail leads from
all components short to prevent contact with the base of the case.
Drilling the case
Fig.4 shows a template/guide for
drilling the case. The lid requires
9.5mm diameter holes for potentiometers VR1 and VR2, a 19mm x 10mm
April 2021 41
SILICON CHIP
Fig.2: most of the components are mounted on the top of the board, with the main exception being Triac Q1. It mounts
on the inside of the case, under the PCB. Once you have finished the wiring, check it carefully against this diagram.
The Earth screws and lugs must all make good contact, and use cable ties to bundle up the control wires as shown.
rectangular cutout for switch S1 and a
4mm hole for the Earth screw.
The PCB is mounted in the base
of the case using 6.3mm-long M3
tapped spacers, which require mounting holes.
Use the PCB as a template, and note
that the CON1 screw terminal end sits
further away from the end of the box
compared to the other end. This allows space for the cable gland nuts.
With the PCB in place, mark out the
hole positions, remove it and drill
them to 3mm.
Attach the 6.3mm-long spacers to
the PCB using short machine screws,
then bend the Triac leads up by 90°
4mm from its body. Insert the leads
into the PCB from the underside (see
Fig.2).
Secure the PCB to the case with
screws from the underside and mark
the Triac mounting hole position on
the base of the case. Remove the PCB
again and drill this to 4mm. Clean
away any metal swarf and slightly
chamfer the hole edges, then reattach
the PCB and adjust the Triac lead
height, so the metal tab sits flush onto
the flat surface.
Secure the Triac tab to the case with
an M4 screw and nut. The metal tab
is internally isolated from the leads,
42
Silicon Chip
so it does not require any further insulation between its tab and the case.
Solder the Triac leads on the top of
the PCB and trim them close. Now remove the screws to gain access to the
underside of the PCB and solder the
Triac leads from the underside of the
PCB as well.
Now is a good time to attach rubber
feet to the base of the case.
Panel preparation
As well as drilling the holes in the
lid mentioned above, you need to partially drill a 4mm hole on the inside
for the pot location pin that prevents
Close-up, same-size photo of the Speed Controller PCB. Because it is a mainspowered and mains-controlling device, your construction must be exemplary.
Don’t attempt this project if you’re not experienced with mains devices.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the pot body from rotating. Drill it so
that it almost reaches the outside of the
lid, but doesn’t go all the way through.
If you use a countersunk-head Earth
screw and countersink its hole appropriately, it can be mounted under the
panel label for a neater appearance.
Otherwise, you’ll need to cut a hole
in the panel label (with a sharp hobby knife) when the label is stuck on.
The panel label file can be downloaded from our website and printed.
To produce a front panel label, you
have several options. For a more robust label, print as a mirror image onto
clear overhead projector film (using
film suitable for your type of printer).
Attach the label, printed side down, to
the lid with a light-coloured or clear
silicone sealant.
Alternatively, you can print onto a
synthetic “Dataflex” sticky label that is
suitable for inkjet printers, or a “Datapol” sticky label for laser printers.
Then affix the label using the sticky
back adhesive.
There’s more information online
about Dataflex labels at siliconchip.
com.au/link/aabw and Datapol at
siliconchip.com.au/link/aabx, plus
hints on making labels at siliconchip.
com.au/Help/FrontPanels
Wiring
Cut the 10A extension lead into two,
to provide one lead with a plug and another with a socket. Where you cut the
lead depends on how long you want
each section to be. You might prefer a
long plug cord and short socket lead,
so the appliance is located near the
Controller, or the lead can be cut into
two equal lengths.
Before cutting, make sure you have
sufficient length to strip back the insulation as detailed in the next two paragraphs. Make sure the two leads are fed
through the correct gland and wired,
as shown in the wiring diagram, Fig.2.
For the socket (output) lead, you
need a 100mm length of Earth wire
Fig.3: Triac Q1 mounts on the base
of the case, using it as a heatsink. A
hole in the PCB gives access to hold
the nut while you tighten the screw.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list –
Full Wave Motor Speed Controller
1 double-sided PCB coded 10102211, 103 x 81mm
1 diecast box, 119 x 94 x 34mm [Jaycar HB5067]
2 linear 50k 24mm potentiometers (VR1,VR2)
2 plastic knobs to suit VR1 & VR2
1 SPST mini rocker switch (S1) [Jaycar SK0984 or Altronics S3210]
1 Talema AX-1000 10A current transformer (T1) [RS Components 775-4928]
1 M205 10A safety panel-mount fuse holder (F1) [Altronics S5992]
1 M205 10A fast-blow fuse
1 4-way PCB-mount screw terminal (CON1) [Jaycar HM-3162]
2 3-way PCB-mount screw terminals, 5.08mm pitch (CON2,CON3)
2 GP9 cable glands for 4-8mm diameter cable
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
1 2m-long 10A mains extension cord
3 chassis lugs with 4mm eyelets
4 6.3mm-long M3 tapped Nylon spacers
3 M4 x 10mm panhead or countersunk machine screws (for mounting Q1; Earthing)
2 4mm inner diameter star washers
3 M4 nuts
8 M3 x 5mm panhead or countersunk machine screws
4 stick-on rubber feet
1 20mm length of 12mm diameter heatshrink tubing
1 80mm length of 3mm diameter heatshrink tubing
1 600mm length of 7.5A mains-rated wire (for VR1, VR2 & S1)
4 100mm-long cable ties
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 1010221A.hex, DIP-8 (IC1)
1 LMC6482AIN dual CMOS op amp, DIP-8 (IC2)
1 BTA41-600B 40A 600V insulated tab Triac, TOP3 (Q1)
1 BC337 500mA NPN transistor, TO-92 (Q2)
1 5.1V 1W (1N4733) zener diode (ZD1)
2 1N4004 400V 1A diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 2.2µF 16V (or higher) PC electrolytic
1 470nF 275VAC X2-class metallised polypropylene
1 220nF 275VAC X2-class metallised polypropylene
3 100nF 63/100V MKT polyester
1 4.7nF 63/100V MKT polyester
(value printed on body)
(value printed on body)
(code 103 or 100n)
(code 470 or 4n7)
Resistors (all 0.25W, 1% unless otherwise stated)
1 330k 5% 1W carbon film
(code orange orange black orange brown)
3 100k
(code black brown black orange brown)
1 47k
(code yellow purple black red brown)
2 20k
(code red black black red brown)
1 10k
(code brown black black red brown)
1 4.7k
(code yellow purple black brown brown)
1 1k 10% 5W wire wound
(no code - value printed on body)
1 510
(code green brown black black brown)
1 470
(code yellow purple black black brown)
2 220 5% 1W carbon film
(code red red black black brown)
1 100
(code brown black black black brown)
2 47
(code yellow purple black gold brown)
Miscellaneous
Super Glue (cyanoacrylate), thermal paste, solder
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 43
Fig.4: drill the three holes in
the lid as shown here, plus the
rectangular cut-out. It is most
easily made by drilling a series
of small holes inside the outline,
knocking the central piece out,
then carefully filing the edges
flat and to shape until the switch
snaps in. The three large holes in
the box end are for the two cable
glands and fuseholder,with a
small one (4mm) in the box side
for the Earth screw.
(green/yellow stripe) for the connection between the chassis and lid, so
strip back the outer insulating sheath
by about 200mm. Cut the Active
(brown) and Neutral (blue) wires to
about 50mm long and keep the offcuts.
The spare 150mm brown wire can
be used later, to connect from the fuse
to CON1 via the transformer, T1. This
requires two turns of the Active wire
looped through the transformer hole.
The 100mm Earth wire (green/yellow stripe) which is routed around the
edge of the PCB, and twists together
with the Earth wire from the plug (input) lead, to be crimped into one of
the Earth lugs.
Strip the plug lead outer sheath
insulation back to expose 100mm of
wire. All three wires pass through the
cable gland and connect it as shown in
44
Silicon Chip
Fig.2. Cut the Neutral wire to 50mm
and strip back the insulation before
connecting it to the terminal block.
Now mount the fuse holder in the hole
you made earlier and prepare to solder
the Active (brown) wire to it, as shown.
But before doing that, slide 10mm
diameter heatshrink tubing over the
Active (brown) wire. After soldering
that wire, slide the tubing up and over
the fuse holder to cover the fuseholder
side terminal and shrink it.
Similarly, use 3mm diameter heatshrink tubing to cover the fuse holder
end terminal after soldering that wire.
Now twist the ends of the input
Earth (green/yellow stripe) wire and
the output Earth wire together and
crimp both into one of the eyelet lugs.
Cut VR1 and VR2’s shafts to 12mm
long from the front of the pot bodies
and file the edges smooth. Then atAustralia’s electronics magazine
tach the three 100mm lengths of 7.5A
mains-rated wire to the three terminals
of VR1, plus a fourth 100mm wire to
the middle terminal of VR2. Use short
lengths of the same wire to connect the
two ends of VR2’s track to the same terminals on VR1. Cover all six terminals
with 3mm heatshrink tubing.
Next, connect the free ends of these
wires to CON2 and CON3, making
sure to do so as shown in Fig.2. You
will also need to wire up switch S1
now in a similar manner. It is simply
wired to the two remaining terminals
in either order.
Now secure all these wires to the
PCB using a cable tie that feeds through
the holes provided in the PCB. Attach
VR1, VR2 and S1 to the lid of the case,
noting that the potentiometers must be
located as shown (ie, with their leads
emerging away from the edge of the
siliconchip.com.au
children or other curious people.
Attach the lid, ensuring the wiring is routed
so that it fits around the
higher components on
the PCB. Use the four
screws supplied with
the case; don’t be tempted to run the speed controller without the lid
in place!
Testing
This “opened out” photo
matches the PCB/wiring
diagram on P42. Of course,
we made sure that the
Controller was not plugged
into mains power before
removing the lid!
case). This is so that they will fit between the two mains-rated capacitors
on the PCB.
Add cable ties around the wire bundles closer to VR1, VR2 and S2 as well.
Fit the knobs now; you might need
to lift out the knob caps with a hobby
knife and re-orientate them so that the
pointers match the rotation marks on
the lid panel.
That 100mm length of Earth wire
you cut off from the output lead can
now be crimped into two eyelet lugs,
which are screwed to the underside
of the box lid and the Earth screw on
the side of the case using M4 screws,
star washers and nuts. Ensure that the
nuts are fully tightened.
pins on both the mains plug and socket. Check this with a multimeter set to
read low ohms. You should get readings below 1Ω between all Earth points.
The cable glands need to be tightened to hold the mains cords in place.
Because these are easily undone, apply a drop of Super Glue to the thread
of the glands before tightening. That
way, the glands cannot be undone by
SILICON CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
10A
Fuse
GAIN
Final assembly
Apply a smear of thermal paste to
the underside of the Triac tab before
installing the PCB inside the case. As
mentioned, the tab of the Triac is insulated, so it can contact the case.
The last components to insert are
IC1 (taking care it is orientated correctly), the 10A fuse into its holder
and the cover for the barrier terminals
(CON1). This is simply pressed on to
cover the screw terminals. Finally,
rotate VR2 fully anticlockwise to initially disable feedback.
Now check your construction
carefully. Verify that the Earth wires
(green/yellow striped) connect together the case, to the lid and the Earth
siliconchip.com.au
Connect up a universal motor appliance (eg,
a mains-powered electric drill) to the Controller, apply power and
check that the motor
can be controlled when
adjusting the speed potentiometer.
VR2 may need adjustment to avoid speed
changes when under
load. Rotate it clockwise if the speed
drops off too markedly under load, and
anticlockwise if the motor speeds up
under load.
Check that the soft-start feature
works when enabled by switching the
power off, letting the tool spin down,
then switching it on again to verify that
it ramps up smoothly with S1 in the
sc
correct position.
For universal motors
rated up to 10A,
50/60Hz 230V AC.
Not suitable for
induction motors.
SOFT
START
OFF
ON
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.. . .
.
.
.
.. . .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
SPEED
Full Wave 10A
Motor Speed Controller
Fig.5: full-size “front panel” artwork which can be copied or downloaded
and printed (from siliconchip.com.au). This is glued to the top of the diecast
box – and it can also be used as a template to drill the three panel holes and
cutout for the soft start switch.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 45
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
I hope the purists won’t spit their dummies
Dave Thompson
I love a good restoration; it’s great when old gear is kept working into
the 21st century in original condition. But sometimes that just isn’t
possible, and it’s a good enough result to get something working again
while keeping it looking original. So what did I do that will get certain
knickers in a twist? Read on to find out...
As I mentioned last month, all
these lockdowns are (generally) bad
for business, but they do give us time
to do those jobs that were waiting for
the shipment of round tuits to arrive.
One of these jobs is a 1940s Gulbransen valve radio a friend had given me
a while ago to check over. It has been
sitting in a corner of my workshop
gathering dust for a while, simply because it looked like a huge mountain
to climb.
This is one of those large mantel radios with an oak-veneered timber case.
It has a gently-glowing dial displaying
46
Silicon Chip
the many short and long-wave bands
available at the time, a nifty ‘magic-eye’
tuning indicator and a sizeable built-in
speaker, all giving it a typically warm
valve radio sound and aesthetic.
The problem with this radio is it
had been stored in an outside shed for
the last 40 years, and the moisture has
really gotten into it. The timber finish
has cracked, faded and lifted in places, and the fawn-coloured grille-cloth
and paper speaker cone now almost
Australia’s electronics magazine
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
The week old vintage
The self-made (repair)man
Yamaha E303 keyboard repair
Peak Instruments component
analyser repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
siliconchip.com.au
non-existent (possibly due to rodents
or other critters chewing on them).
Worse still, the metal chassis and
internals are so corroded they are – in
my opinion anyway – beyond reasonable repair.
The guys from the Vintage Radio
section of this magazine will likely
scoff at this assessment. It seems that
anything is restorable and/or worth restoring to them! I’m imagining them
right in their beautiful, wood-panelled office with Venetian blinds, stippled-glass windows, walls of filing
cabinets and not a computer screen
in sight, scoffing away.
But keep in mind that I’m new to
this vintage stuff, and I don’t want to
start a job that I can’t finish!
For me, the problems arise when I
quote to the customer the huge amount
(including many labour hours) it
would take for me to restore this radio to health. Someone – a specialist
restorer perhaps – might be able to do
it less-expensively, and I put this to
him as an option.
He (rightly) had a minor coronary
when I told him how much I would
charge, and told me in no uncertain
terms it simply isn’t worth that kind of
money to him. I surmised as much, as
I’ve been down this road many times
before. People assume it’s just a lick of
paint, a few lines of code, or the push
of a button that fixes their prized possession; but we know it’s much more
involved.
That said, he did say this radio was
owned by a favourite relative whom
he used to visit as a child, and so it
has much sentimental value. It would
also be great to get it going again. So
what could I do?
Unless someone really wanted to
put the time and love (and money)
into this radio, I wouldn’t consider it
a viable restoration project. For one,
Collier and Beale (made locally under license from Gulbransen and distributed by HW Clarke) likely made
many hundreds, if not thousands, of
this radio model back in the 1940s. So
it probably isn’t all that special, aside
from the obvious sentimental value
to my client.
By now, I imagine dedicated restorers/collectors are frothing at the mouth
at what I’m saying. But I suspect the
vast majority of these have ended up
in refuse tips all over the country.
The tuning gang is seized, the valves
have simply gone, and the chassis is
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so rusted it would need stripping and
mechanical restoration, I’m just not up
for it; at least, not without being paid
handsomely.
Consider that the wiring, the valve
sockets and every other electronic
component would likely need replacing. While I have a reasonably extensive collection of new, old stock (NOS)
and salvaged parts from old valve and
early transistor radios and amplifiers, I
just don’t have what this radio needs.
So I’d need to spend time sourcing and
purchasing those parts before I could
even get stuck into the restoration.
The woodwork wouldn’t be a problem for me, given my proclivity for
working with timber, and I suppose the
metalwork restoration wouldn’t be too
onerous either when it comes down to
it. But if the customer doesn’t want to
spend the money, what am I supposed
to do? Sadly, working for the sheer
love of it doesn’t pay the bills, and I
just can’t do that these days.
The customer then came up with the
idea of replacing the guts with modern components, keeping the radio’s
outward aesthetic but using the likes
of modern amplifiers and tuners. He
asked me if it would be possible to
combine modules that he’d seen advertised on eBay and AliExpress to
do this, and I agreed it should work,
and would cost a lot less than a full
restoration job.
He was OK with this option, so I did
some research and ordered some inexpensive modules and a suitable speaker from our Chinese friends. While I
waited for them to arrive, I set about
tidying up the cabinet.
I will be keeping everything I remove (the chassis etc) in its original
condition, just in case the customer
wants to do a complete restoration later. I won’t be altering anything externally to maintain the radio’s authentic
look, other than to re-finish the timber
bits and pieces. I only say this to deflect any blowback I’ll be getting from
the vintage radio mafia!
Gutting it and cleaning it up
The first thing I had to do was remove everything from the case. This
involved just a few screws and unplugging a few interconnecting wires. Obviously, I was very careful in keeping
the integrity of the original parts, but
in the end, I needed to get it all out so
I could work on the case.
Veneer is a tricky material. It looks
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 47
fantastic, but is just a hyper-thin layer
of some more-expensive timber laminated (glued) onto a cheaper timber
underneath. Better-quality radios and
stereograms were made out of solid,
furniture-grade timbers like oak, walnut and elm. But sadly, not this one.
Veneer is usually so thin that any
damage to it, such as a hole worn
through it, renders the rest of it pretty
useless. Patching it often looks awful,
unless you are very skilled, know what
you are doing and have a selection
of similar veneers on-hand. I am not
skilled at veneer repairs, don’t know
what I’m doing and don’t have any
suitable materials on-hand, so that’s
three strikes and out for me.
Fortunately, in/on this case, the veneer had simply lifted and cracked a
little here and there, most likely due
to moisture dissolving the glue that
held it down in the first place. So I
thought that it might not be too challenging to repair.
There was the odd chip, probably
where something had fallen onto the
radio while it was stored in the shed,
but these dings were all small. So I
thought I’d be able to get away with
merely soaking and re-gluing the veneer down, sanding it all lightly and
then re-oiling the whole thing with
Danish oil.
It actually turned out quite well, given the age and damage and my lack of
skills in this area, and once it was oiled
and I applied a couple of clear coats of
lacquer, it looked very nice and still
maintained a realistic vintage vibe.
The other problem that I had to solve
was the dial glass. The magic-eye tuning indicator is mounted in the middle of it, and it is connected to the
rest of the old electronics via a flying
lead/valve socket arrangement. The
glass was quite dirty, and many of the
screen-printed station markings were
a bit worse for wear. I was unsure how
to clean it without damaging it further.
I started with soap and water, then
progressed to methylated spirits with
a very careful application in one hidden corner to make sure it wouldn’t
wipe the whole thing totally clean. The
outside surface was no problem; just
soap and water cleaned off all the accumulated dust and grime quite well.
I managed to remove most of the
dirt from the inside – the printed side
– without damaging any more of the
station information. We’d not be using
any of it now anyway, but I wanted to
retain the radio’s original look.
Now for the fun bit
The modules and speaker I ordered
arrived not long after finishing the
case. I purchased an 8W amplifier
module, an FM tuner module and a
Bluetooth receiver that could be connected to a smartphone, complete with
a small remote control. Grand total:
$29. You just couldn’t make any of
this hardware for the money.
The speaker I bought is a 5-inch,
20W multi-range model that would
happily handle anything the amp
would throw at it, for just $11.
The most expensive part I had to
buy was the replacement grille cloth.
While there were more modern-looking cloths available, I wanted a traditional look, so I had to buy a square
meter of it, expecting to use just a third
of that. No matter; what I don’t use will
go in my parts bins for another project.
Fitting all this gubbins into the
case was the next challenge. Once I
removed the chassis, there was nothing left to mount anything on. And I
still needed to sort out a light to shine
through the old dial gauge to give the
appearance of a soft-glowing bulb.
First, I needed to mount the new
speaker, which had a completely different footprint from the old one. I
made up a thin, custom timber insert with the correctly-sized hole cut
into it, and tacked it directly to the
old speaker-mounting facia. I then removed the old grille cloth, squeezed
the new one in around the sides,
and stapled it after pulling it taut. It
looked almost original, and I was quite
pleased with it.
Next, I’d need a power supply for
everything. The modules required ei-
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman
column? If so, why not send those stories in to us?
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
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48
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
ther 5V or 12V, so it wouldn’t be too
difficult. I thought about purchasing
a power supply module at the same
time as the others, but fortunately, I’d
already bought a suitable one a few
years ago for another project and had
never used it. It would do nicely here.
The only extra component to add
was a power transformer, and as I have
about 200 of the things lying around after buying a transformer-winding machine a while back, it didn’t take me
long to find one to do the job.
The amplifier would require the
most power, with the Bluetooth module and tuner lapping up the remainder. I mounted the transformer directly
to the bottom of the timber case with
a couple of wood screws. Inter-wiring
was done using standard light-gauge
cables, routed and tied-wrapped into
place.
The mains lead was simply clamped
into place (to proper specifications)
and run directly out from the back of
the box. The FM antenna was routed
around the inside of the case. Our FM
reception here is generally OK, so this
ad-hoc aerial should suffice.
I used stand-offs and long screws
to mount the other modules to the inside sides of the case close to where
they needed to be. They all use terminal blocks for interconnections which
made things simple, and P-clamps and
cable ties kept everything looking nice
and neat.
Tuning was the next challenge. The
various FM modules available online
are tuned with either a remote control, a manual up/down push-button
or rotary tuning using a potentiometer. Many of these modules come with
comprehensive LED displays, none of
which my customer was keen on.
A vintage-looking radio with an LED
display chopped into the front isn’t
that appealing. We decided that, since
he usually tuned into a single station,
he would forgo any gaudy displays
and just manually tune it, hopefully
using something resembling the original knob, if possible.
Volume control was similarly problematic; many of the modules used a
digital volume adjustment system. But
in choosing an amplifier module that
used an old-fashioned pot, that made
my job much easier. All I had to do was
remove the pot from the module and,
using suitable flying leads, connect it
via an adaptor to the case where the
original volume pot used to be.
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April 2021
2021 49
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The original knob obviously
wouldn’t fit the new pot, so I turned
up a simple brass adapter so it could fit
onto the much smaller shaft of the new
volume control. I did the same thing
with the ‘tuning’ pot, and a new rotary
on/off switch that mimicked the originals. It actually all ended up looking
very stock-standard, and the customer was happy with how it presented.
A bit of solder here and there had
the speaker and other ancillaries connected up, and it was ready to test. It
worked very well, especially as he is
a ‘set-and-forget’ user.
The only thing left was the dark dial.
Obviously, I couldn’t tee up the new
tuning with the old manual dial-cord
system or magic-eye, but he wasn’t worried about that. What would make a difference is the glow from the old dial. To
this end, I simply rigged up a couple of
orange LEDs and, after a bit of experimentation, adjusted the series resistors
to provide a convincing soft glow.
I could have gone for blue or something a bit more modern, but instead
tried to maintain the vintage look of
the original radio.
All in all, it ended up looking OK
and working very well, and as a bonus,
he can stream music from his phone
if he desires. The sound is excellent
and the volume punchy, so all in all,
it was a good solution to the problem.
Another happy camper!
The self-made (repair)man
S. G. of Mildura, Vic had a frustrating time chasing a fault which seemingly he had caused, but he still can’t
figure out how...
You might laugh at my story, but
you wouldn’t if it happened to you!
I just spent over a week trying to
repair one of my stuff-ups. A couple
of weeks ago, I purchased an amateur
band radio for the 2m and 70cm bands.
This was going to replace the 2m radio that I had in the back of my Pajero ever since I first got my license. It
also involved installing a new antenna on the bullbar, where the old UHF
CB antenna used to live.
I moved the UHF antenna to the side
of the bonnet and mounted it with a
special Z bracket, so the bonnet will
still close. This works fine, and so does
the new VHF/UHF antenna for the new
radio. The only thing that I had left to
do was to drill a hole in the firewall,
right next to the cable feeding 12V to
the caravan.
50
Silicon Chip
This cable is also used to supply a
6-way fuse block so I can run fridges from the auxiliary battery, as well
as the CB radio and the new amateur
band radio.
I used a 25mm hole saw and a short
length of 25mm flexible conduit to act
as a gland through the firewall. I took
care in drilling the new hole, as there
are several wires in the area that go off
in all directions on the inside of the
firewall. Yes, I did check before drilling the hole, but still managed to take
out the interior lights, the digital clock
and the hazard and turn indicators!
First, I decided to check the fuse.
The Pajero has two fuse boxes, with
one in the engine compartment that
houses the fuse for the hazard lights.
The second fuse block is under the
dash and requires removing the trim
piece around the steering column just
to gain access. The clock and interior
lights are both on the same fuse, and I
fixed them by replacing the fuse.
The hazards are fed from two power
sources, one permanent power (from
the fuse block in the engine compartment) and the other is the accessories
circuit fuse block under the dash. This
is so that the hazards will work independently of the ignition key. Pressing the hazard button changes over the
power feed from accessories to permanent power.
This hazard switch also links both
the right and the left blinker circuits so
that all the lights flash at once.
After more head scratching, I
checked more fuses. I pulled the
Australia’s electronics magazine
blinker fuse (not easy due to the poor
access) but it appeared OK. Next on the
list was the blinker can itself. The only
way I could think of to check whether it was faulty was to try replacing it.
I then had the idea to bypass the
blinker can, which involved fitting a
small link wire between the B and the
L pins on the socket. I now had all of
the hazard lights and blinker lights
working.
At this point, it looked like I would
have to pull the whole dash apart just
to gain access to the wiring loom. I took
out the gauges, speedo and tacho cluster, just to see if I could find any damaged wiring, but it was impossible to
see properly behind the dash. I even
tried to feel for damage to the wiring
back there, but if I found it, how would
I repair it? It looked like the Pajero was
built around the wiring loom!
After some further checking of the
blinker can, though, I struck gold. This
was a three-pin can (some have just
two pins), and on checking the can
in my workshop, I determined that
the third pin was a ground and was
needed as it is an electronic type and
has a constant flash rate, independent
of the lamps.
Tracing around the blinker can socket, I soon found that while power was
present, there was no ground return. I
ended up cutting the ground wire from
the socket, soldering on a new ground
wire and attaching it to the chassis.
It still didn’t work, so I called it a
day. On Monday morning, I popped
into a local shop and bought a new can.
siliconchip.com.au
After fitting it, my hazards and blinders worked – I breathed a sigh of relief!
I don’t know how the blinker can
failed; there is not much in it in terms
of electronics. It just looks like a 555
timer driving a small relay. Anyway,
I don’t care, it all works now!
Yamaha E303 keyboard repair
J. K. of Castlecrag, NSW spent a long
time tracking down a problem in his
keyboard, but at least the fix cost virtually nothing once he had diagnosed
the fault...
I purchased a Yamaha E303 electronic keyboard about 10 years ago,
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second-hand, for about $300. It is an
excellent learning tool, and had been
enjoyed by my grandchildren almost
every time they visit.
A few years ago, the highest note
(high C) stopped sounding. Since I
seldom used it, I didn’t do anything
about it. Actually, that key plays an
important role in one of the resets,
but I did not need it for that purpose.
In the last couple of months, several
more keys stopped sounding. I jumped
online and found the service manual,
but it did no more than show how to
disassemble the unit.
Disassembly is fairly intuitive, but
Australia’s electronics magazine
removing the keys to expose the pressure pads was not obvious. Luckily,
the manual provided some pictures
which showed how to do it.
There are 61 keys in total. Each is
sounded by two carbon sticks contacting the pads on the keyboard, completing a circuit.
The E303 is a touch-sensitive piano,
so the harder the key is pressed, the
louder the note. This happens because
of the resistance of the carbon sticks
on the pads changes with pressure.
A very common problem is dirt on
the pads or the carbon sticks. Spilling
coffee or sticky drinks on the keyboard
April 2021 51
will cause significant problems, but
cleaning the carbon sticks and the pads
(with isopropyl alcohol) did not help.
So I had to check that the connections
between the keyboard and the control
unit were solid.
That is a very tedious job which required tracing voltages through the
connecting sockets and onto the keyboard. The control unit (DMLCD in the
service manual) provides 3.3V to the
two keyboard circuit boards 61L and
61H via multi-cable leads 1 and 2 (see
the accompanying diagram). I traced
the +3.3V DC supplied to CN831 on the
DMLCD board, at pins 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, & 12.
The 3.3V supply is referenced to
Earth as it appears on the control
boards, but there is no cable carrying
the Earth connection. Instead, pin 7
of CN833 is about -0.2V referenced to
Earth and that translates to +3.095V on
each of the pins mentioned above. All
the voltages were present and correct.
I had hoped that the service manual
or Yamaha themselves would give me
some leads, but they stated that they
do not get involved in repairs, and refer all such enquires to their “Service
Agents”. Strangely, the Service Agent
for the Sydney area is located beyond
Windsor.
Each pad serving a note consists
of two contacts which are “connected” by the carbon sticks when a key
is depressed. Each contact on the circuit board connects through a diode to
other pads, then connects to the control unit. Its a very clever system, because just twelve or so leads convey
information about which of 61 keys
has been pressed and whether two or
more keys are involved.
The diagram shown on the previous page is part of the left-hand keyboard circuit board 61L. The squiggly
lines are the contact pads, two for each
note. So it became a job of tracing all
of the 122 diode connections back to
the control board.
That’s when I found five copper
tracks with no continuity. Some kind
of corrosion or stress had broken the
links. The tracks are very fragile, so
even a small amount of corrosion
could break them. I considered spraying the boards with a conformal coating, but the risk of some spray getting
on to the contact pads discouraged that
idea. If more connections break in future, I will know what to do.
Luckily, the fix was relatively easy;
I just soldered a short length of wire
52
Silicon Chip
between each of the diodes with a
failed connection. After doing that for
the five tracks, all of the failed keys
came to life!
I expect that a very experienced
technician would recognise the problem quickly and would simply replace
the two (low and high) keyboard PCBs,
61L and 61H, with a component cost
of about $100 plus the time of swapping the new boards in.
Doing what I did – tracing the problem – took about 30 hours which
would have cost about $2000-3000 at
standard labour rates. Which is why,
these days, most repairs are not made
at the component level, and instead,
the boards are simply swapped. I think
the control board for this keyboard
costs about $350 – more than I paid
for the whole thing!
Repairing the Peak of test
instruments
P. B. of Kaitaia, New Zealand had
given up trying to repair a piece of test
equipment, but then when he went to
take another look, a solution presented itself...
I am a retired service technician.
Some 20 years ago, I decided that a
Peak semiconductor component analyser would greatly assist my servicing
work despite its relatively high price. I
took extra care to ensure that I did not
connect it to any live equipment, and
that any capacitors were discharged
before using it.
At some stage in its life, the
self-analysis check it does on startup came up with a fault code. Sadly,
Australia’s electronics magazine
the user manual gives no information
on what the codes signify. Looking
at Peak’s site, I rapidly concluded
that returning it to the UK for service would cost more than purchasing a new one.
Dave Thompson recently mentioned
his Peak instrument in a Serviceman’s
Log column (March 2021; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/14784), which jogged
my memory. I decided to have a look
at it again and started by replacing the
battery. However, as I went to remove
the battery, I became aware of what
seemed to be a dry joint where the negative battery spring terminated on the
board. It looked dull grey and pitted.
Ancient memory then stirred into
life, of a discussion with a serviceman
in the area some years back, of a similar fault of another piece of batterypowered equipment where the negative wire had dropped off.
The consensus was that it was a
common occurrence on aging batterypowered equipment, only affecting the
negative terminal.
Sure enough, a hot soldering iron
and a shiny solder joint later, the analyser sprang into normal operation.
I wonder if this is a form of electrolysis. Three different metals are
in contact: the plating on the battery
spring clip, the copper PCB track and
the solder.
With the passage of time and current
passing through it, the solder joint deteriorated. The voltage drop was not
enough to stop the self-analysis or the
display working, but it was sufficient
SC
to trigger the fault code.
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battery. Playback from
a Bluetooth® source,
USB stick, microSD card
or AUX input. Built-in
FM radio. Remote &
power adaptor included.
CS2485
TV Flyleads
Air Purifier
with LED Light
Filters the air
around your living
room, bedroom or
office space. 3 speed
fan automatically adjusts according to air
quality. 3-in-1 filter. Warm white night light.
Mains powered. GH1952
Spare Filter GH1953 $34.95
ALSO AVAILABLE:
USB Rechargeable Desk Air Purifier
GH1950 $59.95
Spare Filter GH1951 $9.95
More ways to pay:
Coloured backlights. Tactile, quiet keys.
Anti-skid scroll wheel. XC5132 $59.95
Ultra Durable Gaming Pad
Extra large, 800x300mm. Stitched
edges, non-slip rubber base.
XM5101 $19.95
new
Bluetooth
Game Controller
for Android & Windows
®
Get a better gaming experience
from your Android & Windows
games. HID mode or direct Play
using the free game mapping
app. Rechargeable. Bracket for
4-6" phones. XC5800
Smartphone not included.
Pairs with any USB
compatible gaming
system. Suits PC,
Nintendo Switch,
Raspberry Pi, PS3 &
Android TV Arcade
Games. USB powered.
XC5802
3.5mm
Gaming Earphones
Designed for hardcore
gamers who enjoy
many hours of
gameplay. 4-pole
connector. 10mm
dynamic driver. Blue
& green colours
available. AA2160
ONLY
1995
95
USB Retro Arcade
Game Controller
SAVE $10
$
ONLY
39
$
NOW
3995
$
Gaming Keyboard
& Mouse Set
ONLY
3995
$
Gaming Console
Tool Kit
Includes Nintendo &
Xbox security bits, Xbox
opening tool, stainless
tweezers, ratchet handle
& adaptor, etc. TD2109
ONLY
24 95
$
DETACHABLE
MICROPHONE
Easy Setup
Connected home
:
1. Download
the App
2. Follow in-A
pp
instructions
It's that easy!
Thanks to Wi-Fi connectivity, an easy
to use App, and the sensors shown
here, you can get phone alerts to
events going on around your home
without needing to be there.
WI-FI
new
ONLY
34
$
95
ONLY
34
new
$
Door/Window
Sensor
new
95
PIR Motion
Sensor
Detects open or close status of a window
or door. Push notification when device is
removed. Anti theft function. 45m Wi-Fi
range. LA5069
Detects movement up to 10m away
to activate your smart devices, such as
LED bulbs. Anti-theft push notification
function. 45m Wi-Fi range. LA5047
ONLY
49
$
ONLY
3995
new
95
$
Temperature &
Water Sensor
Avoid flooding your bathroom or laundry.
Humidity Sensor Audible alarm and phone notification
View the temp & humidity of a room
remotely on your phone. Loud audible
alarm & phone notification when pre-set
levels exceeded. LA5068
when a water leak is detected. LA5067
AC1200 High Power
Dual Band
Wi-Fi
Extender
new
FROM
3995
Quickly eliminate
dead-spots, enhance
Wi-Fi signal or provide
an access point on your
existing wired network.
Plugs into power point.
1200Mbps capable.
YN8374
$
For your online gaming, blogging, conferencing
and streaming. Windows 10 & Mac OS compatible.
QC3209
10/100/1000Mbps
Ethernet Switches
9995
Provide additional ports to an internet router,
firewall, or a standalone network. Supports
ultra-fast gigabit speeds.
5 Port YN8395 $39.95
8 Port YN8397 $59.95
$
NOW FROM
4995
$
15% OFF
2-in-1
Network Cable Tester
& Digital Multimeter
Easily check cable integrity
or measure AC & DC
voltage up to 600V, AC/
DC current up to 200mA,
resistance, etc. CAT III,
2000 count. XC5078
NOW
7995
$
SAVE $10
4K
Ultra High Definition
4K Web Camera
.
ONLY
JUST
199
$
PC Monitor
Desk Brackets
4P/6P/8P Modular Crimp Tool
with Network/PoE Tester
All-in-one crimper & cable tester. Tests
both UTP & STP cable. Crimps single
& multi-wired cable. Detachable cable
tester. TH1939
VESA compliant. Metal frame with
scratch-resistant, powder-coat finish.
Single CW2874 NOW $49.95 SAVE $10
Double CW2875 NOW $67.95 SAVE $12
NOW
64 95
$
SAVE $10
Extra Long
Cat6a Patch Cables
ACMA approved.
10m YN8297 $24.95
20m YN8298 $36.95
30m YN8299 $49.95
See website for
full range
Looking for more product information?
Visit your local store or our website jaycar.com.au
USB 3.0
4 Port Hub
FROM
24
$
95
Perfect for connecting all
your peripherals to a laptop
or port-limited device. No
power required, plug and play
operation. XC4979
We reward our industry professionals
ONLY
1995
$
Arduino® made easy
NOW
5995
$
SAVE $20
NOW
89
Arduino®
Compatible
Learning Kit
Linker
Base Shield
for Arduino®
Arduino®
Compatible UNO
R3 Board
ONLY
ONLY
2495
CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR FULL RANGE OF MODULES
4
95
NOW
11
$
Connects Linker sensors/modules to
the Linker base shield. 4 pin, 2.54mm
headers. 150mm. Pk 5. XC4559
Bright white LEDs to use as lamp or
camera flash. 20mA.
XC4570
www.jaycar.com.au/arduino
NOW FROM
NOW FROM
25% OFF
20% OFF
2
Grey Vented ABS Enclosures
Protect your project from unwanted fingers or
objects. Satin textured finish, snap-fit assembly.
40x40x20mm HB6114 NOW $2.95
60x60x20mm HB6116 NOW $4
80x80x20mm HB6118 NOW $4.45
4
$
NOW
20
Vero Type PC Boards
NOW
6 35
75
$
20% OFF
Linker High Power
LED Module for Arduino®
95
2995
$
$
More Arduino compatible products:
$
Popular board for Arduino® projects.
Stackable design, add shield easily. Power
from 7-12VDC or USB. ATMega16u2 USBSerial chipset. 53Lx75Wx13Hmm. XC4410
4
95
20% OFF
Linker Jumper Leads
for Arduino®
Official kit from Arduino® with UNO board,
breadboard, user manual & plenty of
prototyping accessories. Perfect gift for a
young electronics enthusiast or maker. XC9200
See website for details
Contains an Arduino-compatible MEGA board, breadboard, and
plenty of prototyping hardware & peripherals. Plastic organiser.
XC4286 See website for full details.
$
ONLY
Arduino®
Starter Kit
Arduino® Compatible
MEGA Experimenter's Kit
Allows simple and tidy connection
between Arduino® board and all
Linker sensors/modules. 1xSPI,
2xIIC, 1xUART. XC4557
$
$
SAVE $20
Perfect starter kit with Arduino-compatible
UNO board, breadboard, plenty of
prototyping hardware, modules, components,
and instruction booklet to get you started.
XC3900 See website for full details.
JUST
169
$
20% OFF
Arduino® Compatible
PIR Motion Detector Module
Add motion detection to your project. 0.3-18s
adjustable delay. 5~20VDC. XC4444
Arduino® Compatible
Dual Ultrasonic Sensor Module
Measure distances up to 4.5m. Great for obstacle
avoidance robotics projects. 5VDC. XC4442
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the
product will work in your
Arduino® based project.
NOW
7
$ 95
20% OFF
Alphanumeric grid, pre-drilled 0.9mm, 2.5mm
10 Piece Jumper Lead Set
spacing. 95mm wide. 3 lengths available.
200mm long multi-coloured
HP9540-HP9544
Spot Face Cutter for Strip Boards
leads, pin to alligator clip.
TD2461 NOW $5.95 SAVE 30%
WC6032
RASPBERRY PI COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the
product will work in your
Raspberry Pi project.
14 Piece Precision
Hobby Knife Set
10 different blades,
handle, 70mm tweezers,
90mm flat screwdriver &
vernier calipers. TH1916
NOW
14 95
$
SAVE $5
Powerful Pi
projects
Copper Heatsink for
Raspberry Pi
Helps dissipate heat from
RPi CPU. Self adhesive
pads. Pk 2. HH8584
NOW
6 35
$
Raspberry Pi 4B
Single Board
Computer 4GB
20% OFF
GPIO Expansion Kit
for Raspberry Pi
Colour coded cable.
Labelled header.
XC9042
Board not included.
Tiny credit card size computer. Powered via
USB Type-C. On board Wi-Fi for convenient
communication with external devices. 1.5 GHz
4GB 64-Bit Quad Core ARM Cortex-A72 Processor.
4GB RAM. Bluetooth® 5. USB ports. XC9100
ALSO AVAILABLE:
Raspberry Pi 3B+ XC9001 $89.95
NOW
995
$
20% OFF
Official
Raspberry Pi 3B Case
Snap-together case with
numerous removable
panels, no tools needed.
Deep slot for easy microSD
access. XC9006
109
$
Raspberry
Pi Starter Kit
95
20% OFF
$
15.3W Power Supply
for Raspberry Pi 4
20% OFF
FROM
29
95
Touchscreens
for Raspberry Pi
5MP Camera
for Raspberry Pi
Add a user interface to your RPi project. Connect
directly to your Pi. Resistive/capacitive touch.
2.8" 320x240px
XC9022 $29.95
5" HDMI 800x480px XC9024 $99.95
7" HDMI 1024x600px XC9026 $159
$
Power your RPi or Arduino® from your PoE network. 5V
output via USB micro B. RJ45 in/out. YN8416
ONLY
9
$
95
Hobby Solar Module
Power solar projects, hobbies, model
solar cars & educational applications.
1.5V. 148x74mm. ZM9012
ONLY
95
Make your RPi project completely portable. Attaches to
the RPi, and includes 3.7V 3800mAh rechargeable Li-ion.
2 x USB ports. XC9060
3
50
Mini Piezo Buzzer
90dB medium to loud output.
Durable. 3-16VDC, 15mA. 22mm Dia.
AB3462
microSD card
pre-loaded with
NOOBS software for
easy Raspbian OS
installation. SD adaptor
included. XC9030
FROM
$
ONLY
4
$
ONLY
34 95
$
16GB NOOBS
SD Card
for Raspberry Pi
Lithium-ion
Battery Pack
for Raspberry Pi
5V PoE
Power Splitter
ONLY
2195
$
Aluminium case to
keep your Raspberry
Pi cool and protected.
Adhesive tape &
mounting hardware
included. XC9112
29
95
High current output with
USB Type-C connector.
5.1VDC 3A. 1.5m lead with
in-line switch. XC9122
ALSO AVAILABLE:
Power Supply Suit RPi 3
MP3536 $23.95
Heatsink Case
with Dual Fan
for Raspberry Pi 4
Add vision to your RPi project. 1080p capable.
2592x1944px images. XC9020
ALSO AVAILABLE:
5MP Infrared LED Camera
XC9021 NOW $39.95 SAVE 20%
ONLY
24
$
NOW
1995
$
$
ONLY
149
Includes Pi 3B board, case,
power supply, USB cable,
Programming the Raspberry
Pi: Getting Started with Python
book, microSD card with NOOBS
software, plus getting started
guide. XC9010
NOW
11
$
ONLY
Hobby Motors
50
For hobbies, experimenters, robotics
& as replacements. 1.5-4.5VDC.
Low Torque
YM2706 $3.50
Medium Torque YM2707 $4.95
ONLY
2 95
$
SPDT Miniature
Toggle Switch
Solder tag with
threaded bush.
ST0335
ONLY
24 95
$
Servicing saviours
Multimeter
Test Probes
930mm long. WT5316
$5.95
Test Leads
700mm long.
WT5320 $6.50
NOW
54
$
NOW
119
95
$
SAVE $15
SAVE $20
True RMS
Inductance/Capacitance DMM
Measures capacitance to 100mF,
inductance to 20H, and much more. High
accuracy. Cat III 1000V / Cat IV 600V. 2000
display count. QM1552
True RMS DMM with Bluetooth®
Connectivity
Measures sound level, light, humidity,
temperature, resistance & more. Noncontact voltage. CAT IV 600V. AC/DC
voltages & current up to 250V/10A.
4000 display count. QM1594
Compact, lightweight.
Adjustable flame,
temp range up
to 1300°C. Piezo
ignition. Safety lock.
TH1610
Full autoranging. Math functions. Duty cycle.
Bluetooth® connectivity for datalogging. Cat
III 1000V / Cat IV 600V. 6000 display count.
IP67 waterproof. QM1578
ONLY
39
95
$
800mm long. WT5325
$17.95
160pc of heatshrink in 7 different
colours & sizes, and a gas
blow torch. Piezo ignition.
Flame or flameless
output. TH1620
Adjustable flame,
temp range up
to 1300°C. Piezo
ignition. Safety
lock. TS1660
ONLY
Multimeter
Test Probes
Shrouded Type
Heatshrink Pack
with Gas Blow Torch
Gas Blow Torch
27
$
SAVE $20
Multifunction Environment
Meter with DMM
Pocket Size
Gas Blow Torch
NOW
169
$
ONLY
44 95
95
$
FREE* Bonus
Butane
Gas Can
Gas Soldering Iron
& Blow Torch Kit
Gift
NA1020 Worth $4.95
When you purchase
a gas blow torch
*
95
Pencil Gas Blow Torch
Adjustable flame. Metal
construction. TS1667
Offer applies to: TS1660, TH1610, TH1620,
TS1112 & TS1667
Aerosol Service Aids
Must have for all electronic,
electrical & field service
applications. 175g.
Circuit Board Lacquer
NA1002 $11.50
Contact Cleaner
Lubricant NA1012 $11.50
Electronic Circuit Board
Cleaner NA1008 $11.50
Electronic Cleaning
Solvent NA1004 $11.50
Everything you need to
solder, silver solder, braze,
heatshrink, cut rope, etc.
5 different tips included.
TS1112
ONLY
14
$
J-B Weld Epoxy
CLUB OFFER:
ANY 2 FOR
15
$
SAVE 30%
Two part epoxy resin.
Bonds to almost any
surface. 25ml. NA1518
THE BEST EPOXY
GLUE ON THE PLANET
ONLY
16
$
95
ONLY
3995
$
Liquid
Electrical Tape
Seals and protects
electrical connections.
28g.
Black NM2836
Red NM2838
ONLY
1995
$
EA
ISUZU D-MAX COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Starts 12:01 AM AEDT 26/2/21. Ends 11:59 PM AEST 30/4/21. Open to AUST residents who fulfil the entry/eligibility requirements. Prize is a 21MY Isuzu D-MAX 4x4 LS-U
Automatic valued at up to $61,998 (inc GST). Prize draw 10:00 AM AEST 13/5/21 at Level 2, 11 York St Sydney NSW 2000. Winners notified via email by 14/5/21 and published at jaycar.com.au/dmax-jaycar by 17/5/21. Promoter is
Jaycar Pty Ltd. ABN 65 000 087 936. 320 Victoria Rd Rydalmere NSW 2116. Authorised under NSW Authority No. TP/00716, and ACT Permit No. TP 21/00078 and SA Permit No. T21/71. Actual prize vehicle not shown, specifications
may vary. For full terms and conditions refer to jaycar.com.au/dmax-terms
Workbench wonders
70W
Ultrasonic
Cleaner
Effectively clean your
jewellery and other
small parts. Built-in
timer. 2 power settings.
1.8L capacity. YH5416
NOW
129
$
SAVE $20
13.8V 5A
Laboratory
Power Supply
100MHz
Dual Channel
Oscilloscope with
Digital Storage
Power 13.8V electronics
& comms equipment in your
home, office, garage or lab. Fixed
output voltage. Short circuit
protection. MP3096
NOW
99
$
ONLY
4495
$
Bondic
Liquid Plastic
Welding Kit
ONLY
39
$
95
Helps remove dangerous solder
fumes from the work area. Ball
bearing high volume fan, carbon
filter. ESD safe. Mains powered.
TS1580
Spare filter 5-pack
TS1581 $9.95
Vacuum Bench Vice
Driver bits to repair phone, game
consoles & other electronic
gadgets. Hardened S2 tool steel.
Magnetic storage for bits. TD2134
Crimp F, N, BNC, TNC, UHF, ST, SC
& SMA connectors onto RG6 or
RG58 coax. 220mm long. TH1833
Clamp mount, fully adjustable
arm. High/low light setting.
Includes 125mm dia. 3 dioptre
1.75x lens. Interchangeable
lenses available. QM3554
5 Dioptre Lens QM3555 $12.95
8 Dioptre Lens QM3556 $19.95
NOW
SAVE $15
48 Piece Screwdriver Set
Hex Ratchet Crimping Tool
LED Illuminated Magnifier
Solder Fume Extractor
0-150mm (0-6")
measurement range,
metric & imperial. 5-digit
LCD. Stainless steel. Case
included. TD2082
39
ONLY
119
5995
CURES
UNDER UV
Digital Vernier
Calipers
95
SAVE $100
$
$
Bond, build, fix & fill virtually anything in seconds.
Solvent-free. Stays liquid until cured with the
included UV LED Light. NA1530
ONLY
799
$
7" colour LCD. Built-in waveform generator. PC
connection via USB. SD card support. Lightweight,
compact. Includes 2 probes & USB cable.
QC1936 RRP $899 See website for details.
SAVE $10
$
CLUB OFFER:
ONLY
27
$
ONLY
32
$
95
Heavy Duty Wire Stripper,
Cutter & Crimper
Strip all types of cable from 10-24 AWG
(0.13-6.0mm). 204mm long. TH1827
95
ONLY
24
$
95
6" Insulated Side Cutters
Strong, tough, reliable. Can cut piano
wire up to 1.6mm. Comfortable grip.
GS approved. 160mm long. TH1985
NOW
2995
$
Hard-wearing diecast
aluminium. Ball joint clamp,
suction base. 75mm opening
jaw. 160mm tall. TH1766
SAVE $10
ONLY
1695
$
Crimping Tool for Non-Insulated Lugs
Spring-loaded, comfortable handles. Suits
14-18 & 22-26 AWG lugs. Built-in wire cutter.
185mm long. TH1834
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for Rewards / membership T&Cs.
IN-STORE ONLY refers to company owned stores and not available to Resellers. Page 1: FREE 1 x 1kg Flashforge Filament with purchase of Dual Filament 3D Printer (TL4410), select from TL4269-TL4276. Page 2: CLUB OFFER: FREE
Gaming Pad (XM5101) with purchase of Gaming Keyboard & Mouse Set (XC5132). Page 6: FREE Butane Gas Can (NA1020) with purchase of Gas Blow Torches: TS1660, TH1610, TH1620, TS1112 or TS1667. Page 6: CLUB OFFER:
Any 2 x Aerosols Service Aids applies to NA1002, NA1012, NA1008, NA1004 or any combination. SUPPLY CHAIN DISRUPTION. We apologise for factors out of control which may result in some items may not being available on the
advertised on-sale date of the catalogue.
s
'
t
a
Wh w
Ne
JUST
239
$
Rear
OBD II 4G/GPS Tracking Device
3" IPS
TOUCH
SCREEN
Locate and track the whereabouts of your
vehicle in realtime. Track via the Internet on a
PC or Smartphone. 4G SIM card required (sold
separately). Built-in microphone, SMS alerts and
more. LA9039
USB Qualcomm® 3.0
Car Adaptor with Voltmeter
Converts your car lighter socket to
2 x USB & 1 x USB Qualcomm
3.0 quick charge sockets.
Voltage display on engine
start up. PP2118
Main
4K Dashcam
with Touchscreen
170° VIEWING
ANGLE
JUST
FM Transmitters
249
$
Capture events on the road. Records to microSD card (sold
separately). Bonds to your windscreen via 3M® double sided tape.
Feature G-sensor, manual / loop recording. Parking mode. QV3868
32GB microSD Card XC4992 $36.95
Wirelessly play music (and talk) hands
free from a Smartphone*, MP3 player,
USB or SD card via the FM band.
USB
AR3139 $14.95
FROM
Bluetooth® AR3144 $34.95
*Via Bluetooth®
ONLY
119
$
HIGH
POWER
100W USB
Type-C Laptop
Power Supply
Power laptops including
Macbook Pro via USB Type-C port.
USB Type-C & Type-A outputs.
5-20VDC at up to 5A. MP3344
ONLY
20,000mAh Power Bank
Charge compatible phones
75% faster! 2 x Qualcomm®
Quick Charge™ 3.0 USB A
ports. USB Type-C Power
Delivery port. MB3797
NOW
39
$
95
SAVE $20
5 Port USB Charging Station
with Storage Compartment
Charges up to 5 USB devices at the
same time. 2.4A max per port. 8.2A
shared. 6 dividers. Includes power
supply. WC7766
14 95
$
500Mbps
Powerline
Ethernet
Extender
Extend your network using your home's
existing electrical wiring - up to 300m
range. Speeds up to 500Mbps. Ideal for
web streaming, online gaming and video
chatting. YN8358
ALSO AVAILABLE: With Wi-Fi
YN8359 $149
8995
$
ONLY
1995
$
NOW
5995
$
SAVE $20
NOW
99
NOW
199
$
$
SAVE $30
SAVE $50
1080p HDMI
Cat5e/Cat6 Extender with Infrared
Extend your HDMI signal using CAT5e/6 cable up to 50m*. Ideal
for running HDMI signals to new locations or connecting through
existing building cables. AC1783 *Depending on cable used & resolution.
AC1200 Wi-Fi Mesh Network
Base & Satellite Kit
Provides seamless Wi-Fi in your entire
home. Fast 1200Mbps data speed. Expand
with additional satellite modules (YN8562
NOW $99 sold separately). YN8560
Got a great project or kit idea?
If we produce or publish your electronics,
arduino or pi project, we'll give you a
complementary $100 gift card.
projects.jaycar.com
1800 022 888
www.jaycar.com.au
Over 100 stores & 130 resellers nationwide
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road,
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100
Fax: (02) 8832 3169
ONLINE ORDERS
www.jaycar.com.au
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer confirmed at the time of print. Call your local store to check stock. Occasionally discontinued
items advertised on a special / lower price in this flyer have limited to nil stock in certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Resellers, and
cannot be ordered or transferred. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and special offers are valid from 24.03.2021 - 23.04.2021.
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Biofeedback for stress management
This circuit connects to a pair of skin
electrodes on your scalp and gives you
a ‘stress level’ reading. If you can see
how your stress level varies immediately, it will help you to determine
when you are particularly stressed
and also what you need to do to relax.
It measures the magnitude of the
alpha waves produced by your brain,
which have signal frequencies in the
4-11Hz range. A small amount of these
waves (in the microvolts range) reaches the surface of your skin and can
be picked up using electrodes. These
signals are fed to a TL071 JFET-input
op amp to be amplified to a level that
can be read out on a digital voltmeter.
A small bias current (less than
750µA, varying depending on skin resistance) is applied through the skin
electrodes.
siliconchip.com.au
The AC alpha waves are coupled
to the op amp input via a 1µF MKT
capacitor, and they are DC-biased to
around -26mV by the resistor network
following that capacitor.
Higher-frequency signals are filtered
out using a 1kW/1nF RC low-pass filter plus a series ferrite bead. This filter also helps to eliminate any RF that
is picked up by the electrode leads.
The 1µF coupling capacitor and
39kW resistor form a high-pass filter
with a -3dB point of 4Hz to eliminate
very low frequency signals, below the
range of alpha waves.
The gain of this op amp stage is adjusted using trimpot VR1. It can be up
to about 1000 times (1MW ÷ 1kW). The
signal is then fed through a 15kW/1µF
RC low-pass filter which has a -3dB
point of 10.6Hz. This filters out most
Australia’s electronics magazine
signals above the 11Hz maximum frequency of alpha waves.
The signal is then rectified by diode D3, which also reduces the reading by about 0.2V, eliminating noise
from the results.
A DMM set to read millivolts connected across the output terminal
therefore gives a reading proportional
to your alpha wave activity, with VR1
correctly adjusted.
The circuit runs from a pair of 9V
batteries which produce an approximately ±8.4V split supply after reverse
polarity protection diodes D1 & D2.
100µH chokes reduce RF pickup from
the battery leads while 47W resistors
and 100µF bypass capacitors provide
further supply filtering.
David Strong,
Penshurst, NSW. ($105)
April 2021 61
Latching output for Remote Monitoring Station
This simple circuit adds extra capabilities to the 4G Remote Monitoring
Station (February 2020; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/12335). It provides a
way for the Remote Monitoring Station to drive the Opto-Isolated Mains
Relay (October 2018; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11267).
I wanted to be able to switch an appliance on or off by sending an SMS.
As the Monitoring Station project has
a battery-saving feature, the status of
the Arduino output pins is lost when
the Arduino goes to sleep. This circuit
adds a way to preserve the state without increasing the current consumption very much. However, in my case,
mains power is available so that is not
a significant concern.
This circuit is based on a 555 timer
which is used as a flip flop to switch
the relay on and off. It keeps it in the
last state, even when the Arduino is
in sleep mode.
When the circuit is first powered up,
pin 2 of IC1 is held high via the 10kW
pull-up resistor, while pin 6 is kept
low by a 10kW pull-down resistor. The
pin 4 reset input is briefly pulled low
by the 10kW/100nF RC network. This
ensures that the 555 won’t switch the
appliance on after blackouts or power glitches.
The Remote Monitoring Station
code needs to be modified (as per
the instructions in Ask Silicon Chip,
March 2020) to send the selected Arduino pin high when you want the
appliance switched on. The code also
needs to be modified to send another
Arduino pin high when you want the
appliance to switch off.
The selected switch-on pin connects to the base of the NPN transistor Q1 via a diode and 22kW resistor.
When this pin goes high, it switches
Q1 on, pulling pin 2 of IC1 low and
thereby bringing its output pin 3 high.
This powers the appliance up via the
Opto-Isolated Mains Relay. The 555
will stay in this state when the Arduino goes to sleep.
When the Arduino receives a command to switch off, the other pin going
high pulls pin 6 of IC1 high, bringing
its output pin 3 low, which switches
the appliance off.
The diodes on the inputs isolate the
Arduino from the circuit and ensure
that the circuit will only respond to
logic high output levels.
Geoff Coppa,
Toormina, NSW. ($60)
Alternative switched attenuator for Shirt Pocket Oscillator
I am building the Shirt-Pocket Sized Audio DDS Oscillator (September 2020; siliconchip.com.au/Article/14563) in
a 100 x 70 x 50mm aluminium box, using AA batteries for
power and RCA and binding post outputs.
This circuit shows the switched attenuator I will be using, which is different from the one suggested in the article. It uses a centre-off switch that I already had, which is
smaller and easier to fit securely than a rotary switch. The
ranges are not sequential, which is not ideal, but at least the
middle position has the lowest output level.
The need for the 150kW resistor is debatable, given the
tolerance of the potentiometer resistance, but it does give
an 11.111kW resistance in parallel with 12kW, which is the
exact value needed.
Rick Arden,
Gowanbrae, Vic. ($60)
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Follow-up to ‘constant’ AC source
This circuit develops my ideas on
the “infinite impedance” alternating
current source concept, previously described in the December 2020 Circuit
Notebook section (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14681).
That circuit used a direct digital synthesis (DDS) sinewave generator and
standard op amp to drive the resonant
network. The result is a sinewave at
the output that delivers an essentially constant magnitude alternating current into a resistive load.
To simplify the circuit, I have
ditched the DDS sinewave generator
and I am instead using an LM3900 dual
Norton (current input) amplifier chip.
The circuit snippet below is cribbed
from my October 2019 Circuit Notebook submission (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/12027) describing how to
build a stable sinewave oscillator using a Norton amp, and also gives the
formulas (in the blue box) for the oscillation condition and to derive the
frequency.
For the output resonant circuit, I
had a 0.7mH inductor available. Using the inductance vs capacitance and
frequency charts published in the December 2020 issue, that sets the capacitance required as 70nF (eg, 68nF,
siliconchip.com.au
1.8nF & 200pF in parallel) for a frequency of 22.66kHz.
The oscillator circuit achieves this
frequency with the values shown. VR2
is used to fine-tune the frequency, with
a nominal value of 4kW giving 11kW +
4kW = 15kW to set the frequency close
to 22.66kHz. VR1 sets the amplitude of
the input voltage to the resonant circuit and hence the value of the ‘constant’ current.
IC1b buffers the oscillator’s signal
and then drives a current booster circuit
using NPN and PNP emitter-followers
Q1 & Q2, with their base voltages biased around 0.7V above and below the
oscillator signal by diodes D1 & D2. The
output at the emitter junctions of Q1 &
Q2 drives the resonant circuit that, in
turn, drives the load resistance.
I built this circuit and tested it, and
the results are shown in scope grabs
Scope 1-3. Scope 1 was with a load
resistance of 100W, Scope 2 with 50W
and Scope 3 with 200W. In each case,
the oscillator’s output is the trace plotted in yellow while the voltage across
the load resistance is shown in cyan.
The current waveform leads the
voltage waveform by 90° in all three
test cases, and as expected, the voltage amplitude adjusts to supply the
same current to the load. So in Scope
2, the voltage is halved as the load resistance is halved, while in Scope 3,
it is doubled as the load resistance is
doubled. This is not obvious from the
sinewaves since the channel scaling
changes in each plot; check the scale
values at the bottom.
Mauri Lampi,
Glenroy, Vic. ($75)
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 63
The History of Videotape – part 2
Helical Scan
By Ian Batty, Andre Switzer & Rod Humphris
Last month, we described the major innovation that was the Ampex
quadruplex videotape recording and playback system. Of course,
technology did not stand still, and it was only a few years before more
breakthroughs were made, enabling not only better video quality but
also some significant new features...
Thanks to the Toshiba Science Museum for use of this image: toshiba-mirai-kagakukan.jp/en/learn/history/ichigoki/1959vtr/index.htm
A
mpex’s quadruplex video recording was a revolutionary technology. Casting off the existing linear tape
paradigm, Alex Poniatoff’s company
invented a system where four tape
heads, mounted on a spinning disc,
scanned the tape transversely.
Coupled with the adoption of frequency modulation, ‘quad’ established
videotape recording (VTR) machines
as television broadcasting’s workhorse
for replay, editing, distribution and archival work.
Yes, the first VTRs were horrendously expensive, and the size of a
few refrigerators. And yes, the tape is
not entirely robust – it can break and
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distort. But its added flexibility was
well worth it for news and broadcast
companies. For the rest, videotape recording was out of reach.
But the principles established by
quad were sound: rotating head scanners and frequency modulation were
clearly the way ahead. If only someone could devise a simpler, cheaper
system. And it would be helpful for
it to produce a picture in pause, or at
slow or fast picture search; things impossible with quad.
Enter Toshiba
Dr Norikazu Sawazaki at Toshiba’s
Matsuda Research Laboratory develAustralia’s electronics magazine
oped a prototype helical scan recorder
in 1953. The first experimental VTR1 was completed in 1958 and demonstrated to the public in September
1959. Commercial production of the
new videotape recorder followed.
At around the same time, Eduard
Schuller of Telefunken had also devoted himself to the recording of television signals. Having already invented
the “ring-shaped” audiotape head still
in use today, he was awarded a 1953
patent for magnetic recording and
playback of television pictures using
helical scanning.
The tape runs around the head
drum, giving much longer video tracks
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: the basic concept of helical scan
recording. The tape is wrapped around a
drum head at an angle so that as the head
spins, it scans diagonal strips. This means
that the diagonal tracks overlap continuously
along the length of the tape, avoiding the
segmentation necessary with the quad system.
Fig.10: this gives you an idea of how the tracks are laid down on the tap in a helical scan system. While they are diagonal
when the tape is laid flat, when the tape is wrapped around the drum, the tracks actually form a helix shape.
than was possible with quadruplex.
Figs.9 & 10 show a simplified single-head system.
The tape engages the head drum
(the scanner) high and exits low, so
the system records a number of slanted tracks at a shallow angle of perhaps
5°. Viewing the tape on the drum, the
video tracks appear as a series of spirals, a bit like a coil spring, hence the
term “helical scanning”.
Early helical-scan VTRs used the
available 2-inch tape. Despite not
needing vacuum air to form the tape
path, they were hardly more compact
than their quad predecessors. A slower tape speed of 3.7ips allowed five
hours recording or playback on 12.5inch tape reels.
Video recording and playback demand continuous head-to-tape contact. Quad solved this by always having one of four heads engaged with the
tape, and switching to the active head,
but this resulted in the possibility of
mismatches causing head banding.
Helical scanning aimed to record an
entire field of 312.5 lines over 20ms in
a single scan over the tape. This demanded a much longer track length
than quad’s 46mm, with its 16 lines
per scan. Quad systems were able to
record signals in the megahertz range
by virtue of the high headwheel speed,
and helical scan would also need high
head-to-tape speeds.
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Helical scan needed to use realistic
tape speeds, say 7.5ips, but the headto-tape speed needed to be in the order of 20m/s. The solution was to use
a head drum with a large enough diameter to give the required head-totape speed for FM recording.
The Ampex 5800~7900 series VTRs
(Fig.11) used a head drum diameter of
135mm, creating a track length of some
425mm. This gave a writing speed of
just over 11m/s, adequate for FM recording.
They matured with the 7950, a timebase-corrected VTR capable of broadcast performance. Using a single head
with one field for each scan of the tape,
this system’s head drum rotated at 50
revolutions per second (3000 RPM) for
our CCIR/PAL standard. But with such
a long track, tape tension has much
more effect on the horizontal rate.
Television broadcasters had been
the market for the first generation of
VTRs, and broadcast demands very
stable images.
With a track length of only 46mm
laid across the tape (and thus much
less affected by tape stretch), quad’s
greater immunity to tape variations
meant that it remained the preferred
format. Helical systems would have to
play catch-up for some time.
Broadcast vs non-broadcast
video tape recorders
As described in the last article,
broadcast VTRs must be locked to
station sync, both in frequency (to
prevent vertical rolling or horizontal drifting) and in-phase (to register
VTR pictures over the station program). But if a VTR program is to be
replayed on a local monitor, or sent
Fig.11: an Ampex
helical-scan VTR
which used 2-inch
tape. One big advantage
over the quad system
was lower tape speeds,
which meant longer
recording and playback times
(more photos at www.ebay.com/
itm/182696338060). Source: www.
labguysworld.com/Ampex_VR-660.htm
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 65
done quickly and accurately. The long
tracks of helical-scan formats made
cutting-and-splicing impractical, so
helical systems need to use electronic editing (re-recording) in some form.
The end of segmentation
Fig.12: this type of ‘flag waving’ image distortion was a result of timing errors
due to the tape stretching slightly, or the tape or head speed varying slightly
between recording and playback.
to a non-station destination, the rigid demands of broadcast don’t apply.
Non-broadcast equipment can have
relaxed timebase stability, as the VTR
will supply vertical and horizontal references for any destination equipment:
monitors, other VTRs, etc.
Non-broadcast programs may be
in colour, and of high visual quality;
non-broadcast does not imply poor
quality. The best off-tape video may be
as good as – or better than – off-air programs. Non-broadcast just means that
the destination equipment is more tolerant of variations in the exact line and
field rates and phasing of video signals.
Domestic TV receivers were designed with high-performance timebases capable of locking to very weak
signals. Such designs respond well to
weak but constant signals. They do
not easily tolerate signals with timing errors.
It was common when early VTRs
were fed to high-performing television
sets for the TVs to lose sync with picture rolling or horizontal tearing (or
‘flag-waving’; see Fig.12). The solution
was to speed up the monitor’s timebase
response, allowing better tracking of
the VTR video with its higher degree
of timing errors.
Tape editing
Since quad recorded transversely, it was practical to cut-and-splice
tape for editing. This skill, adopted
from movie film editing, could be
Segmentation – the splitting of a field
into discrete scans – was a systemic
problem with quad. The smallest mismatches in playback level, timing or
equalisation caused problems. Helical
scanning would solve this by recording
an entire field in one scan of the tape.
The simplest way of doing this was
with just one rotating head. The head
would need to be continuously in contact with the tape, so this dictated a full
360° wrap, as shown in Fig.9.
VTR development was driven by the
opportunity of bringing the technology
to education, commerce and industry.
A teacher could show a science video
at any time, not just when it came to
air. A sports coach could play back a
tennis player’s serve and analyse just
how to get that drop shot. A plant supervisor could not only explain, but
actually show the company’s board
just what the problem was.
The rapid onslaught of solid-state
technology and its radical miniaturisation of electronic circuitry helped,
of course. No longer would VTRs be
the size of several equipment racks.
Before long, the physical mechanism
would be the main determining factor
on the size of VTRs. Just about every
major electronics manufacturer would
have a go. Get ready for the first VTR
format war.
Format wars: the first battle
Helical scan systems use a rotating
head, or heads, to provide the very
Fig.13: the layout of the magnetic recordings on Ampex 1-inch helical-scan videotape.
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Fig.14: an Ampex VR-6000 helical scan VTR also used 1-inch tape. It went on
sale in 1966 (more photos at www.ebay.com/itm/183994149450).
Source: www.labguysworld.com/Ampex_VR-6000.htm
high head-to-tape speeds used in all
videotape systems. The head disk rotates within a drum, with the drum accurately guiding the tape to give just
the right amount of head-to-tape contact and the correct head-to-tape path.
The tape must be wrapped around the
head drum, but how?
Do we use a full 360° wrap, with just
one head, or do we use a 180° wrap
and two heads? (See Fig.15)
A single head removes the problem
of matching head amplitude/frequency differences. But since a 360° wrap
implies that the entire tape width
must be reserved for the video tracks,
where will we put the control and audio tracks? The solution was for the
video head to scan less than the full
tape’s width.
While this could be made to work, it
left a short period of each video field
unrecorded; there was an inbuilt dropout period in the video playback. But
a two-head system could be designed
so that the video heads scanned less
than the full tape width, allowing for
control and audio tracks.
Since there were two heads, the
design allowed each head to record
a full field, with electronic switching
guaranteeing an uninterrupted playback signal.
Ampex & IVC 1-inch systems
These two pioneers adopted the
single-head, 360° wrap format using
1-inch (25mm) tape. They released
incompatible 1-inch systems: Ampex
(see Figs.13 & 14) used the “alpha”
wrap while IVC used the “omega”
wrap; both names are derived from
the Greek letters.
With Ampex’s alpha wrap, the tape
is led around a near-90° entry guide
before contacting the drum. The tape
runs anti-clockwise. On exit, the tape
is led around another near-90° exit
guide. Tape loading is done with the
two guides retracted. When ready, the
operator closes the guides to give the
correct tape path over the head drum.
Fig.15: the three most commonly used helical scan tape paths. The alpha and
omega systems have the advantage of only needing a single head. In contrast,
with the omega system, there is no discontinuity in tape scanning, so any signals
in the blanking periods are recorded. This was critical for broadcast use, and
almost all videotape systems standardised on the two-head approach.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
The tape enters the scanner station
from the reel table and ascends as it
traverses around the drum, to exit one
inch above the entry point, thus giving
almost the complete 360° (see Figs.16
& 17). There is a small gap where the
head loses contact with the tape, and
thus creates a loss of signal. This is
timed to occur during the vertical
blanking interval.
Although this prevents the disturbance from being seen, the loss of sync
pulses during this dropout period renders the format fundamentally incompatible with broadcast standards. Each
video track stores one field of signal.
Audio is recorded on a conventional
linear track using a bias signal. A control track is laid down during record to
allow accurate scanning in playback.
International Video Corporation
(IVC) led the tape directly on to the
head drum, also running it anti-clockwise. This meant that tape guiding
was simpler than Ampex’s, but there
was still a short gap in the signal. Like
Ampex’s 1-inch system, the IVC format
could not reproduce the entire vertical
blanking period’s synch pulse block.
Audio is recorded on a conventional
linear track using a bias signal, and a
second audio track, used for cueing, is
provided. A control track is laid down
during recording to allow accurate
scanning in playback.
German engineers working for
Bosch-Fernseh broke out with BCN, a
segmented helical scan system using
a single 1-inch tape (Fig.18). With a
high slant angle and a small two-head
drum rotating at 9600 RPM, this system
recorded only 52 lines per track. Like
quad, it could not display a still picture,
nor a picture during search. Released in
1976, BCN was widely used in Europe.
A, B and C formats
Ampex’s single-head, 1-inch system
was developed to the point where its
resolution was equal to quad’s. Capable of recovering and playing back the
full video bandwidth, timebase correction (TBC) gave this system full-colour capability, but still with the loss
of signal in the vertical synch block.
This could be corrected by a digital TBC that re-inserted sync pulses
(which they commonly do), but the
format was not intrinsically broadcast-standard. It was, however, registered by the Society of Motion Picture
and Television Engineers (SMPTE) as
Type A in 1965.
April 2021 67
Fig.16: this shows how the alphawrap system used in Ampex 1-inch
helical scan VTRs was implemented.
Bosch-Fernseh’s BCN was registered
as Type B. Signal loss in the vertical
synch block was more than a nuisance.
It potentially destroyed vital engineering information: the vertical interval
test signal (VITS). Not visible to the
viewer, VITS was valuable to engineers
and technicians.
There was also the SMPTE’s vertical
interval time code (VITC) that uniquely identified each frame on the tape,
critical to editing and verification of
events recorded on tape.
So, if no 360° wrap system could
record a full field, why bother trying?
Why not allow a laneway in the slanted video tracks?
By adjusting the phasing of the video head against that of the active vid-
eo signal, it would be possible to start
the video track someway in from the
tape edge, but end it before the bottom
edge of the tape. This means there is
no loss of contact (dropout) period in
the active video. However, the loss of
the vertical synch block would have
to be addressed.
The solution was to add a second
head to the drum, around 30° behind
the video head. The second head simply recorded the vertical synch block,
also without any loss of contact during
its active period. So the system records (and plays back) the active video and the vertical synch block, both
without any interruption or dropout
disturbances.
This was a system Sony pioneered.
Fig.17: this IVC 1-inch omega-wrap VTR is mechanically a bit simpler than the
Ampex VR-6000, and like the Ampex system it uses a single record-playback
head. Source: https://youtu.be/EIhI85cHIfg
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Australia’s electronics magazine
The whole field (active video and vertical synch bloc) could be recovered
by switching and combining the outputs of the two heads. Known as the
“one-and-a-half head” system, this reproduced an entire field with no gaps
or losses.
Ampex and Sony co-operated to mature and formalise their designs, registered by the SMPTE as “Type C” in
1976 (see Fig.19). It would supplant
quad and become the open-reel standard, surviving into the 1990s. Easeof-handling, enhanced still, slow forward and reverse play and fast forward and reverse play made Type C
the system of preference, especially
for editing.
Prior to Type C’s release in 1976,
Fig.18: a Bosch-Fernseh Type
B helical tape scanner head.
Source: https://w.wiki/gyb
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.19: the layout of the Ampex/Sony “Type C” tape format of 1976. It supplanted quad to become the open-reel standard,
surviving into the 1990s.
single-head systems could not record
an entire field without some period of
signal loss. A two-head system can use
each head to lay down an entire field,
and reconstruct the whole frame from
the combined, sequential output of the
two playback heads. This eliminated
the problem of signal dropout during
the vertical interval.
Two-head omega wrap systems
Single-head systems require a complete 360° scan in 20ms (PAL/CCIR),
giving a speed of 50 revolutions per
second or 3000 RPM. A two-head
system sees each head scanning only
180°, halving the drum speed to 25
RPS/1500 RPM (Fig.20). In practice,
the wrap was slightly more than 180°,
ensuring uninterrupted recovery of the
entire video frame.
Sony released an omega wrap twohead system, and 180° omega wrap
became the preferred format for the
successful and well-known ¾-inch
U-matic, ½-inch Electronic Industry
Association of Japan (EIAJ), Betamax,
VHS, Philips VCR, Akai ¼-inch and
Sony 8mm Video 8 systems.
Two-head omega wrap was also
used in digital audio tape (DAT), in
computer implementations of DAT for
data storage, and Digital Video (DV)
handycams.
Armistice: the EIAJ format
The format wars came to an end
when the Electronic Industries Association of Japan released the EIAJ-1
standard for half-inch open-reel videotape recorders (see Fig.21).
Initially monochrome only, it was
re-engineered for colour operation
and appeared in at least two cartridge/
cassette systems. It was intended for
non-professional use by businesses,
schools, government agencies and hospitals but was also adopted by some
consumers.
Timebase errors remained
For all of helical scan’s advantages, it was even less suited to broadcast than quad. With their long video
tracks, helical format machines had
worse timing stability than quad.
Around the time that helical scan
was being taken up, advances in semiconductor technology were delivering
digital integrated circuits of some complexity. Digital signal processing, also
in development, made it possible to
digitise analog video signals.
Fig.20: the mechanical layout of a basic
two-head omega-wrap VTR system.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 69
Frame store also freed cameras from
the need for station lock. With a frame
store, a remote non-synchronous camera feed could be accepted, then mixed
in directly. Previously, such “outside
broadcast” (OB) programs would be
recorded, then played back from a station-synchronised VTR.
On rare occasions, a producer would
punch to the OB camera, and run the
entire station in sync with the OB. Not
desirable, but sometimes, “you gotta
do what you gotta do!”
DTBC technology advanced to the
point that it could be offered in the
pro versions of domestic video cassette recorders, such as Panasonic’s
ProLine AG-1980.
Colour made it harder
Fig.21: a Sony EIAJ ½-inch VTR. Comparing this to its predecessors
demonstrates the degree of miniaturisation which made Sony famous. More
photos at https://historictech.com/product/sony-cv-2000-videocorder-c1965/
With digitisation came the possibility of highly-responsive timebase
correction. The principle is simple:
digitise the off-tape video at its own
varying rate and store it in digital memory. Then read the data out of memory at the station sync rate, convert the
digital data back to analog and deliver
fully-corrected, station-synchronous
video (see Fig.22).
Early digital timebase correctors
(DTBCs) had only enough memory to
store a few lines, and could not correct
a video signal unless it was vertically-locked to station sync. Further developments offered larger memories,
and it eventually became possible to
store an entire video frame.
A frame store system can correct
timing errors, but also to accept a video signal that is not locked to station
sync. This allows any video signal
with the correct format (PAL, NTSC
etc) to be combined with station video sources. A version of frame store
was used in the Bosch- Fernseh’s BCN
system to display still frames, otherwise impossible with its 52-lines-pertrack format.
Before the introduction of frame
store, satellite feeds were commonly recorded and then played back on
a VTR locked to station sync. Frame
store allowed satellite feeds to be corrected to station sync, then mixed directly into station programs.
Both PAL and NTSC encode colour
(chroma) as a quadrature amplitude
modulated (QAM) signal. This appears
as a phase-modulated signal, and it
must fit in the same bandwidth as the
monochrome (luminance) signal. To
reduce interference, the chroma signal has its carrier removed, leaving
only the signal’s upper and lower sidebands. The problems of phase modulation are explained below.
The receiver’s demodulators must
have a suitable carrier to work, so a
short reference “burst” is added at the
start of each line of video, For PAL,
it’s about 4.5µs of a 4.43361875MHz
sinewave. This is vital to a receiver’s
colour processing.
This makes the stability problems
even worse. NTSC’s chroma frequency is exactly 3.579545MHz, and PAL’s
is 4.43361875MHz(!) Any colour system must deliver the colour (chroma)
signal at very close to those precise
frequencies.
Also, both the American NTSC and
European PAL systems encode colour
signals using phase modulation. Even
Fig.22: once digital technology had matured sufficiently, it became possible to implement timebase correction (TBC)
mostly in the digital domain. This shows the basic layout of such systems. Once mature, they finally provided a simple
means to interface a colour VTR to just about any broadcast system, providing stable phase, line and frame sync.
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Fig.23: hetereodyne VTRs accept the full colour signal, then use a low-pass filter to remove the chroma component. The
remaining luminance is fed to the frequency modulator to create the FM signal for recording. On playback, the FM signal
is demodulated to recover the luminace component of the original video signal.
if the chroma signal frequency can be
made accurate, any phase errors will
cause colours to “slew” in one direction
or another up and down the spectrum.
Just a few degrees of phase error will
be obvious, especially in the range
of human skin tones. Given that the
4.433MHz PAL subcarrier has a period of only 225ns, an error of just 10ns
translates to a phase error of 16°. That’s
enough to make a healthy skin tone
look either badly sunburned or dangerously jaundiced!
Recalling the size and expense of
quad machines, it was feasible to add
colour correction and still sell the
hardware. Correction used a recorded
pilot tone signal. In replay, you would
expect minor tape speed variation, and
variations in tape tension, to affect all
signal frequency/phases.
Luminance phase and timing errors
were corrected by the timebase corrector. Any errors in the pilot tone’s phase
could be applied as a correction to
cancel out errors in the chroma signal.
See, for example, E. M. Leyton’s 1957
US Patent 2,979,558 (https://patents.
google.com/patent/US2979558A/en).
Helical scan systems had two particular barriers to proper colour operation. While quad could accommodate NTSC’s 4MHz bandwidth and
PAL’s 5MHz bandwidth, only the highest-performing helical systems could
meet this demand. 1-inch systems,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.24: the tape bandwidth occupied by a monochrome video signal. As you can
see, there is plenty of spare bandwidth to fit colour information.
Fig.25: the bandwidth occupied by a composite PAL video signal. As can be
seen, the chroma (colour signal) occupies a relatively narrow bandwidth
centered on the chroma carrier frequency of ~4.43MHz. This allows the
luminance and chroma signals to fit in the 5MHz original monochrome
bandwidth, but with minimal interference with each other.
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 71
Fig.26: this is the scheme eventually arrived upon to shift the colour (chroma) information to lower frequencies so that it
can occupy tape spectrum not used by the FM luminance signal.
such as Ampex’s VR-6000 (released in
1966, well after their first 1-inch outing) had a video bandwidth of only
3.5MHz, not enough even for NTSC
(see Figs.24 & 25).
Also, timebase errors in helical systems are far more severe than for quad.
Even if a full-bandwidth colour signal
could be squeezed onto a helical machine, colour correction would be vital
even for CCTV use, let alone broadcast.
To overcome both problems, they
separated the chroma signal from the
luminance signal and handled them
separately.
Colour television’s chroma (colour)
bandwidth is quite small, despite its
3.58/4.43MHz carrier frequency; it’s
-1.5/+0.5MHz for NTSC (a wider lower
sideband) and -1.0/+0.6MHz for PAL.
Now, there’s a lot of tape bandwidth
not being used; even low-definition helical systems used signal frequencies
above 2MHz for their low end. Fig.25
shows the 3.8~4.8MHz FM bandwidth
of VHS.
Sony’s U-matic and Betamax and
JVC’s Video Home System (VHS) used
the similar solution. The chroma content was filtered out, heterodyned
(“down-converted”) to 626.953kHz
(~627kHz), then recorded in the unused spectrum below the luminance
signal. Fig.26 shows a simplified
block diagram of this scheme, while
Fig.27 shows the resulting on-tape
spectrum for VHS.
Yes, down-converting to around
627kHz reduced the colour bandwidth, and thus its fine detail, but this
is domestic-grade equipment that’s not
expected to give broadcast resolution.
72
Silicon Chip
Just as recorded analog audio needs
a bias signal to overcome tape non-linearity, so does this analog chroma recording. Happily, there is already a
high-amplitude signal at maybe five to
ten times the chroma frequency being
recorded, ie, the luminance signal. So
the luminance signal acts as a bias signal for the chroma, without creating
any interference.
On replay, the chroma signal is
heterodyned (up-converted) back to
3.579545MHz or 4.43361875MHz,
mixed with the off-tape luminance signal, and hey presto! Colour recording
and playback.
But let’s recall the problems of
timebase errors, and the need to
keep the chroma signal’s phase errors as low as a few nanoseconds.
Now, converting the highly-precise
3.579545/4.43361875MHz signal
down to 627kHz for recording, then
(in replay) attempting to reconvert up
to exactly 3.579545/4.43361875MHz
with no frequency errors or phase jitter is a big ask. To keep the discussion
simple, let’s consider a PAL colour
signal, calling it 4.433MHz, and the
down-converted signal 627kHz.
Any heterodyne/colour-under system must be able to correct the chroma signal phase errors. Several different methods were developed, relying
on newly-available digital circuitry to
manage the down- and up-conversions
with sufficient accuracy. The actual
signal processing would continue to
use plain old analog techniques.
The mature solution arrived at by
both Beta and VHS used a phaselocked loop (PLL) to generate the
down-converter’s local oscillator,
shown in Fig.26. This description uses
VHS frequencies; Beta is similar.
The PLL was locked to the incoming video’s line rate (15.625kHz), and
it produced an output of 40.125 times
Fig.27: the bandwidth occupied by the video signal after the processing shown in
Fig.24 & 28. This assumes that the FM carrier for the luminance information is
still over 4MHz; however, that can easily be changed to suit different tape speeds.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.28: how down-converted colour video signals are played back; it is basically the reverse of Fig.26. The colour signals
must be recovered with very accurate phases and frequencies or the hues will be different from the originals.
the line frequency (~627kHz). This
was added to the 4.43MHz colour burst
from the incoming signal to create the
5.06MHz local oscillator.
The incoming video signal’s chroma
component was filtered off through a
4.43MHz bandpass filter, then applied
to the mixer, along with the 5.06MHz
local oscillator, to produce the 627kHz
chroma signal. This was combined
with the frequency-modulated luminance signal and recorded onto the
tape. Fig.27 shows the record signal’s
spectrum
Colour playback
The hard part was up-converting
the 627kHz chroma signal back to
4.433MHz in a stable manner.
Remember that the recording LO
was generated partly from the incoming signal’s line rate of 15.625kHz, and
partly from the incoming signal’s chroma frequency of 4.433MHz.
This means there was a fixed frequency ratio between the original
and highly accurate 4.433MHz input
chroma and the 627kHz down-converted signal.
We can expect some phase errors
and jitter in the off-tape 627kHz chroma signal. But this 627kHz signal was
derived using a local oscillator phaselocked to the 15.625kHz line rate. So
we can use the line rate itself as a stable
reference for the replay up-converter’s
local oscillator.
And that’s what is done, as shown in
Fig.28. A PLL recovers the 15.625kHz
line frequency from the luminance
playback circuitry, and creates a
627kHz reference. Another PLL recovers the 4.433MHz chroma frequency
from the upconverter’s output.
The local oscillator takes the 627kHz
reference and the 4.433MHz chroma
signal to create a local oscillator signal
of 5.06MHz. The local oscillator is now
applied to the up-converter’s mixer and
heterodyned with the 627kHz off-tape
chroma to produce 4.433MHz replay
chroma. Using the replay signal’s line
rate reference gives sufficiently good
phase correction for a domestic colour
television.
The final stage in playback processing mixes the replay colour signal
with the replay luminance signal, to
Fig.29: once the luminance and chrominance signals have been extracted from
the videotape, it is a relatively simple matter to mix them to produce a standard
video signal, which a colour TV will happily accept.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
re-create the composite video output,
as shown in Fig.29.
Heterodyne colour systems are complicated, but were implemented for
two reasons. First, it made colour recording possible on video tape systems
that could not provide the full broadcast bandwidth of 4.2MHz (NTSC) or
5MHz (PAL). Second, heterodyne colour applies correction during replay,
making the colour signal stable enough
for display on monitors and television
sets, and for editing and copying. The
alternative to heterodyne colour’s replay processing would be a TBC in
every VCR, making VCRs too expensive to market.
That’s it for this article; next month,
we will discuss the cassette systems
that were used as a convenient means
of storing and protecting videotape.
Thanks to Randall Hodges, Richard
Berryman and Rod Humphris for their
help in preparing this article.
References
• A write-up on the history of video recorders etc: www.labguysworld.
com/VTR_TimeLine.htm
• Dana Lee’s website on TV and more:
www.danalee.ca/ttt/
• An introduction to VCRs: https://
youtu.be/KfuARMCyTvg
Many other videos on the above
YouTube channel are also worth taking a look at.
• Video Tape Recorders, 2nd Ed. Kybett, Harry, Howard W. Sams, Indianapolis, 1978
• Video Recording Record and Replay
Systems. White, Gordon, Newnes-Butterworths, London, 1972
April 2021 73
Transports, Mechanisms and Servos
As stated in last month’s article, this
is a full description of the operation of
servo motors as used in helical scans
and the like.
A tape transport draws tape from the
supply reel, passes it over the heads
and collects it on the takeup reel. The
tape needs to move at a constant
speed, and the usual mechanism is a
spinning shaft (the capstan). The rubber-covered pinch roller presses the
tape against the capstan to ensure a
steady speed.
Audio recorders, with their heads in
fixed positions, can use mains-powered
capstan motors, or speed-controlled
DC motors.
However it is achieved, the motor
just needs to run at a constant speed.
For different tape speeds, it’s common
to see a stepped drive shaft, like on a
multi-speed record player.
Video recorders use a combination
of fixed (audio, control track) and moving (video) heads. It’s vital for the video drum to spin at precisely the correct
speed for the heads to scan the video
tracks on the tape accurately.
There is a reference for tracking: the
control track, with its 25 ‘pips’ per second, indicating where the video tracks
are located.
So the head drum’s speed and position (phase) must be accurately forced
(by a control system) to follow the control track signal. This control system is
a servo.
Phase servo
The simplest VTR transports relied
on a mains-powered motor running at
a predictable speed to drive the tape
capstan, and thus to transport the tape.
Since the control track was part of the
original recording, it would indicate the
head drum’s desired position for correct playback.
The main motor also drove the head
drum mechanism, so it was naturally ‘in
step’. The drum servo’s simple task was
to adjust the position of the head drum
relative to the tape, so that the heads
scanned the slanted video tracks precisely. It isn’t enough to just have the
correct speed; the position relative to the
tracks needs to be correct, too.
Fig.30 shows a simple phase servo. A
pickup on the head drum feeds a trapezoidal waveform former, and the control
track pulse is amplified to form a narrow
sampling pulse.
The sampling pulse operates an electronic sample-and-hold switch that delivers the trapezoid’s instantaneous amplitude at the time of sampling. A capacitor
stores the instantaneous value as a DC
voltage. The voltage across the capacitor will be low for early sampling or high
for late sampling.
This voltage is fed to the inverting
input of a differential amplifier, with its
non-inverting (reference) input voltage
being adjustable via the ‘tracking’ control
pot so that tapes from other VTRs can
be played back successfully.
Fig.30: an example of how a
simple phase servo operates.
74
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
The output of this amplifier is proportional to the difference between
the actual and desired phase, and this
is then amplified to control the tape
speed and thus bring the system into
phase lock.
Fig.31 shows a simplified mains-powered head drum mechanism.
An eddy current brake, incorporating an aluminium disc mounted on the
head drum’s driveshaft, applies a small
amount of ‘drag’ against the drive belt’s
force as the DC control current passes
through the brake’s coil.
This force is enough to create a minute amount of slippage between the belt
and its drive wheel, and give an adjustable head drum position relative to the
moving tape.
The head drum speed was set just
a little too fast, so that the drum servo
would be able to adjust the drum phase
to advance (less braking) or retard (more
braking).
Speed servos
Mains-powered VTRs relied on the
stable mains frequency to transport
the tape at the correct speed, and the
drum’s phase servo to deliver accurate tracking.
Battery-powered VTRs also needed to transport the tape at the correct
speed, and two methods were adopted.
Akai’s VT-100 applied their clever DC
brushless servomotor design first used
in their X-IV and X-V portable audio recorders. It’s a three-phase motor driven
by a high-power phase-shift oscillator.
This design delivered excellent speed
accuracy, but the drum servo could not
use eddy-current braking for head positioning.
Instead, the differential amplifier sent
a control signal to the motor drive amplifier (MDA), and the MDA’s DC output
powered the drum motor directly. So
Akai’s circuit replaced the eddy current
brake of Fig.30 with a DC drum motor.
Sometimes the tape transport would
also use a conventional DC motor. In this
case, the transport motor would need a
speed servo.
A simple speed servo generates a
voltage proportional to the difference
between the motor’s actual speed and
desired speed. If the actual speed is too
low, this signals the Motor Drive Amplifier (MDA) to increase power to the
motor. When the motor speed reaches
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Fig.31: a simplified mains-powered
head drum mechanism as used in a
videotape recorder.
its desired (setpoint) rate, this voltage
moderates the MDA’s output to hold the
motor at the setpoint speed.
If the motor runs too fast, the voltage will swing in the opposite direction
and signal the MDA to reduce power to
the motor. As before, once the motor’s
speed reaches to set point, the differential amplifier will moderate the MDA
output to hold it at the set point.
The basic speed servo (Fig.32) uses
a simple speed pickup that delivers one
pulse for each motor revolution. It could
be a simple magnetic pickup, or it could
use an LED with its light is transmitted
to a phototransistor through a slit in a
disk on the motor shaft.
The tacho(meter) amplifier takes the
incoming tacho pulses and converts
them to a DC voltage proportional to
the pulse frequency.
The differential amplifier produces a
voltage proportional to the difference between its two inputs. When they match,
its output is such that the MDA maintains a constant speed.
But if there’s a difference between the
+ and – inputs, the voltage will swing to
signal to the MDA that it should change
the motor speed and consequently, to
bring the inputs back to balance. The
actual setpoint speed is easily changed
by adjusting the speed reference potentiometer.
Combined speed/phase servos
Phase servos are accurate, slow-responding systems. Speed servos respond quickly, but lack phase accuracy. High-performance designs combine
a speed loop (for rapid startup) and a
phase loop (for accurate positioning).
Ultimately, mains-powered VCRs
would take up these techniques, and
would incorporate sophisticated direct-drive motors for capstan and head
drum mechanisms.
While more complicated, these advanced designs did not need speed-reducing belts or gears, were lighter and
could be controlled more accurately,
and could easily be slowed or reversed
for slow-motion, reverse play and other
useful ‘trick’ modes.
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April 2021 75
Care for your rechargeable batteries
High
current
Battery Balancer
Our new High Current Battery Balancer, introduced last month, is an
advanced design which provides high efficiency and fast balancing by
efficiently transferring charge between the connected cells or batteries.
It can handle cells or batteries up to 16V, and two units can be combined
for larger installations. This second and final article describes the
assembly and testing steps, and how to use it.
W
e put considerable effort into keeping this design
as simple as possible, while still providing excellent performance and many useful features.
As a result, the parts count is not especially high. However, we have had to use mostly SMD parts to keep the size
reasonable, and also because many of the best part choices
were not available in through-hole packages at all.
While the board assembly is not overly difficult, it is not
suitable for beginners. Some SMD soldering experience is
desirable.
You will need a decent temperature-controlled soldering
station (and ideally a reflow oven or hot air rework station),
a syringe of flux paste, some solder wick, fine-tipped tweezers, a magnifier and a strong light source.
None of the SMD parts are especially difficult to handle,
although the smaller six-pin parts in SOT-363 packages are
on the tricker side, along with QSOP-16 ICs, which have
pins that are fairly close together. Finally, the transformers can present a bit of a challenge in making good solder
joints due to their high thermal mass. But with a little care,
the PCB can be built by hand.
Refer to the PCB overlay diagrams, Figs.4(a) & 4(b) overleaf, for details on which parts go where. We suggest you
start construction by populating the surface-mount components on the board’s underside, followed by the SMDs on
the top side, then finally, the through-hole parts.
As touched on earlier, you can use various assembly
methods, including reflow soldering or hand-soldering. We
will describe the hand-soldering method as it requires the
fewest specialised tools, listed above.
The general procedure is to place each part (with the correct orientation for polarised parts, which is pretty much
all ICs, diodes & Mosfets) and tack down one pin. You then
check the alignment of the other pins and re-position the
part by melting the tack solder and gently nudging the part
if it is not perfectly aligned with its pads. Once aligned, it is
a good idea to add flux paste to all the pins, as that greatly
reduces the chance of solder not adhering.
You then solder the remaining pins, refresh the initially
tacked pin (if you have added flux paste then all you need to
do is touch it with the tip of the iron), then use solder wick
and flux to clean up any bridges which might have formed.
The order in which components are placed is not critiConstruction
cal, but we think it is best to place the most difficult parts
The High-efficiency Battery Balancer is built on on each side first, so that you do not have to deal with ina four-layer PCB coded
terfering adjacent compo14102211 which measures
nents. The following proPart 2 – Construction – by Duraid Madina cedure uses that method.
108 x 80mm.
76
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Note that SMD resistors are typically marked with a
tiny code on the top that indicates the value (eg, 47kΩ
= 473 [47 x 103] or 4702 [470 x 102]), which you
probably need a magnifier to see. SMD ceramic
capacitors are usually unmarked.
Finally, note that most of the semiconductor devices used are sensitive to electrostatic discharge (ESD) – particularly
those in the smaller packages. Therefore, when handling these devices, try and avoid touching their
pins. A grounded anti-static
wrist strap will usually ensure you can’t damage any
parts, but there are many other
ways of ensuring ESD safety.
Assembly details
Start by fitting the eight 1Ω gate drive resistors, because
they are the smallest passive components on the board and
are generally out of the way of other parts. Next, fit the eight
gate drive NMOS/PMOS FET pairs: Q27, Q28, Q22, Q23,
Q16, Q17, Q11 and Q12.
These are relatively large as six-pin SMDs go, so they
should not give you too much trouble, but watch the orientation! You might need a magnifier to find the pin 1 dot
on the top of each device, which in each case goes in the
bottom right corner, as shown in Figs.4(a) & 4(b).
Next, mount the eight 4.7µF capacitors which are adjacent
to these Mosfet pairs. Follow with the five 330Ω resistors
on this side of the board, plus the four 20Ω resistors, then
the eight 10µF capacitors alongside the mounting pads for
Mosfets Q1-Q4.
The components labelled “Rsnub” and “Csnub” are required if you are balancing 12V batteries, but are not needed for lower voltage balancing such as Li-ion/LiPo/LiFePO4
cells. If you need them, fit them now, using the values suggested in the parts list published last month (30Ω & 470pF).
Now install Mosfets Q1-Q5. These are in LFPAK56 SMD
packages, which are similar to 8-pin SOIC devices, but with
a tab replacing four of the pins on one side. As such, it
should be obvious which way round they go, but don’t get
the BUK9Y8R5-80E used for Q5 mixed up with the similar
BUK9Y4R8-60Es used for Q1-Q4.
In each case, spread a little flux paste on the tab pad before tacking one of the small pins, then solder the remaining three small pins before the tab. You might need to crank
your iron temperature up to solder the tabs as they have a
lot of thermal mass. The flux paste you added earlier should
help draw the solder you feed in under the tab for a good
thermal and electrical connection.
With those in place, fit the eight remaining Mosfets on
this side of the board using the same technique. They are all
BUK9Y14-80Es (a different type again from Q1-Q4 & Q5).
Now fit the four SMB TVS diodes, ZD1-ZD4, ensuring
that their cathode strips are oriented as shown in Fig.4.
Note that the voltage rating of these parts varies depending
on what type of cells or batteries you are balancing (see the
parts list last month).
Solder them similarly to the passives, but being larger,
they take a bit more heat. Their leads wrap around the sides,
so make sure the solder adheres to both the PCB and the
device leads (flux paste makes this much easier to achieve).
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The next job is to solder the four 3A SMD fuses, which
mount similarly to resistors (they are not polarised). That
just leaves two small resistors: one 100kΩ 0.1% resistor, and
another 0.1% resistor, the value of which varies depending
on your application. Make sure you don’t get them mixed up.
Top-side SMDs
Flip the board over and continue assembly by fitting the
four larger, 3.2 x 2.6mm (M3226 or 1210) sized ceramic
capacitors near the transformer T1-T4 footprints. We used
4.7µF 100V capacitors (TDK CNA6P1X7R2A475K250AE)
but you can more than double the capacitance by using
10µF 75V capacitors which cost only a little bit more (TDK
CGA6P1X7R1N106K250AC).
Follow by fitting the five small dual Mosfets, Q8, Q18,
Q13, Q19 and Q24. In each case, make sure that the pin 1
dot is lined up correctly first.
These are in smaller packages than the ones you mounted
on the bottom of the PCB, with more closely spaced pins,
so they might be a little bit trickier. But they aren’t too hard
as long as you remember to carefully check for bridges between pins using a magnifier and fix any bridges you find
using flux paste and solder wick.
Mosfet Q7, in the bottom-right corner, is in the same
package as those five but it is a slightly different device so
don’t get it mixed up. Again, check its orientation carefully before soldering it in place.
Now is a good time to mount the microcontroller, IC2. It
should be relatively easy compared to the devices you have
already soldered, but make sure that the pins on all four
sides are lined up before soldering more than one pin, and
as usual, be careful to get its pin 1 in the correct location.
Follow with the four isolators: IC4, IC6, IC8 & IC10. In
each case, pin 1 is at upper left. These have a similar pin
pitch to the small dual Mosfets you already mounted, so
should not be any harder to install.
Next, fit the eight 470nF capacitors, followed by the five
regulators. For the regulators, spread a little flux paste on
the large pad before taking one of the smaller pins, then
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 77
solder the remaining small pins before
tacking the tabs.
You might need to turn your iron
temperature up a bit when soldering
the tabs.
With those in place, now you can
fit the six 1µF SMD capacitors, the
two ferrite beads, plus the 680Ω and
100Ω SMD resistors. Then mount the
two ESD protection arrays, which are
in four-pin packages with one larger
than the others.
Check Fig.4(a) and to verify their
orientation if you are not sure.
Now install the eight 10kΩ resistors
and then the five 1nF, three 100nF and
three 10µF capacitors. Follow by fitting
the remaining TVS (the higher voltage
one, ZD5). Make sure it is orientated
correctly. Then mount the two fuses,
with the lower-current (0.75A) fuse
being F7, near 8-pin header CON15,
and the higher-current (3A) fuse near
CON2 at upper left
In terms of passives, that just leaves
the sole 20Ω resistor near CON10, plus
the eight 0.1% resistors.
As mentioned last month, the lower value 0.1% resistor values need to
be changed depending on your battery voltages.
The upper resistor in each pair is
100kΩ. Ensure that the lower resistor
is either 6.8kΩ, for a total stack up to
about 24V, or 2.2kΩ for higher stack
voltages.
Fig.4(a): top-side PCB component overlay, with matching photo below.
Transformer mounting
Due to the significant thermal mass
of the transformers and the large power planes they connect to, we recommend avoiding the use of solder paste
for mounting these parts, unless you
have a very high-quality reflow oven.
Instead, we suggest placing them as
accurately as possible, holding them
in place with Kapton tape, then soldering their four tabs with a hot iron
and flux-cored wire solder.
Once the transformers are fitted, it is
essential to ensure that all flux residues
are removed. This can be challenging
as most residues will be hidden between the underside of the transformers and the PCB.
If flux residues are allowed to remain, the idle current can increase by
orders of magnitude (beyond 1mA).
The flux can break down at higher
voltages, resulting in erratic behaviour
and even arcing through the residues.
Here, an ounce of prevention is
worth a pound of cure, so try to limit
78
Silicon Chip
the build-up of flux residue by not allowing too much to accumulate in the
first place. If you have the choice, try to
use a “no-clean” flux. However, if the
flux you are using requires cleaning,
make sure to wash the transformers
thoroughly with a high-quality flux remover and wipe off any visible residue.
Through-hole components
Fit tactile switch S1 now. It has a
standard footprint, so switches with
various actuator heights are available. If you will be frequently adjusting the unit, you might consider chassis-mounting a switch and wiring it
back to the pads. If doing that, make
Australia’s electronics magazine
sure the wires connect to one of the
upper pair and one of the lower pair
(which is GND).
Then you can fit terminal blades for
battery/cell connection as required.
Most 5.08mm-pitch two-terminal types
will work, but check to make sure your
intended spade connector will fit.
An example blade is Wurth Elektronik 7471286, or use the Altronics parts
suggested in the parts list last month.
It may be preferable to solder wires
instead of spade lugs for some installations, perhaps to reach panel-mounted connectors.
However, the Balancer should not be
directly soldered to batteries. A failure
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Fig.4(b): and here’s the underside of the board, again with matching photo below.
in either the Balancer or the batteries
will be more difficult to resolve if the
two are permanently connected.
There is no need to use particularly heavy gauge wire as balancing currents are modest, but as a rough guide,
they should be able to carry 2A with
a negligible temperature rise. 0.8mm
diameter copper wire (20AWG) is a
reasonable option.
If using spade lugs, ensure that no
part of the blade, lug, or wire can contact other nearby components. Insulated spade quick connectors are available, and it’s a good idea to use them.
For some installations, you might
want to mount the board inverted and
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have terminals or wires exiting from
the rear of the board.
You can also fit a 5-position 2.54mm
header (either vertical or right angle)
at CON13 for lower-power applications such as balancing smaller lithium-polymer (LiPo) batteries.
CON13 is conveniently located at
the edge of the board. If the board is
mounted right at the edge of a case with
a cut-out in the side, you can plug a
standard balance connector straight in.
Watch the polarity, though!
Now is a good time to fit the 2x4-pin
header for JP1. For some installations,
where the batteries are of a fixed type,
this could be replaced with a soldered
Australia’s electronics magazine
wire link if desired. Follow with trimpot VR1, ensuring its adjustment screw
is located as shown.
If you will be adjusting the balancing voltage frequently, you could instead use a chassis-mount 100kΩ potentiometer and run flying leads back
to VR1’s pads, possibly plugging into
a pin header.
Neither the potentiometer’s accuracy nor power dissipation are critical,
but we suggest using a sealed design
for greater long-term reliability.
Follow with the four LEDs, ensuring
that the cathodes go towards the top as
shown. If mounting the LEDs on the
PCB, you will need to use 3mm types.
Still, you could instead fit pin headers or flying leads and mount them in
a location that will be externally visible (eg, mounted onto a panel or case
side using bezels), in which case you
could use 5mm LEDs or virtually any
other types.
For some colours, a different value of
current-limiting resistor from the 680Ω
specified could be desired to increase
the brightness or decrease power consumption.
As the drive voltage is 3.3V, blue or
white LEDs are not recommended, although you might find that such types
give adequate light given their high
efficiency.
Pin headers CON14 & CON15 are optional. CON14 is only required if you
need access to the serial port, such as
for debugging or connecting two Balancers to work together (via an isolator) on an 8-cell battery.
CON15 is only needed if you have
fitted a blank microcontroller and will
need to program it on-board, or wish
to reprogram it later.
That just leaves the six capacitors.
Don’t get the two different types mixed
up, and make sure to insert the longer leads into the holes marked with
+ signs.
We have specified organic polymer
capacitors, not ordinary electros, for
their much superior performance characteristics.
Programming
On the topic of programming IC2, as
mentioned last month, it can be done
with a PICkit 4 plugged into CON15
(pin 1 to pin 1). This can be done using the MPLAB X IPE software, which
comes with Microchip’s free MPLAB X
IDE. (Or simply use a pre-programmed
chip from our Online Shop).
April 2021 79
Safety notes
Working with batteries presents some hazards. The most important thing to do is to be thoroughly familiar with your particular
batteries’ safety requirements. In general, having fuses close to the terminals of all larger batteries is a good idea to prevent cables
catching fire.
You can buy fuses that connect directly to the terminals, with provision to attach thick wires at the other end. You can also use
inline fuses, but you should ideally keep the section of wire between the terminal and fuse short.
There are a few other things to keep in mind when using the Balancer:
• Always check that the Balancer is working as intended before attaching it to batteries or other power sources. Ideally, this is done
with current-limited power supplies, as described in the main text.
• Don’t leave the Balancer unattended until you are satisfied that it works reliably for your particular application. Take particular care
if setting a lengthy timeout period.
• Keep the Balancer physically separate from the batteries. If they are too close, heat from the Balancer could degrade the batteries,
or lead to a hazardous situation.
• Ensure that the Balancer is kept clean and dry at all times.
• Don’t permanently attach the Balancer to batteries or other power sources; if a hazardous situation arises, it is good to have the
ability to quickly disconnect the Balancer.
• Periodically check that your batteries are healthy: if the Balancer is constantly balancing one cell, or if you notice that your batteries are losing their ability to store charge, be sure to test and replace any failing cells.
• Remember that the Balancer can’t stop a battery from being charged or discharged by external circuitry: over-charging and over-discharging cells can not only damage them, but can lead to hazardous situations.
• Note that in higher voltage applications, some of the voltages present on the Balancer could be dangerous (although its maximum
rating of 60V total is well within the extra-low-voltage or ELV domain) and so the Balancer should not be touched. Additionally,
some components on the Balancer can get hot during operation.
It’s very important not to program
the device while attached to any kind
of power source (cell/battery or otherwise), so enable the “power target from
PICkit” option.
Test the device in low power/current
limited situations after programming,
as described below, in case there’s
an error with the newly programmed
software.
Testing
Before connecting the Balancer to
batteries, it’s essential to test it to ensure that nothing has gone wrong with
the assembly that could affect safety
or reliability.
The easiest way to do this is with a
pair of isolated, current-limited power supplies. Set their output voltages
to be the same (eg, 4V each) and their
current limits to around 500mA.
Connect one supply between
STACK- (CON7) and CELL1 (CON6),
with the positive terminal to CON6.
Connect the other between CELL1
(CON6) and CELL2 (CON5), with the
positive terminal to CON5.
Ensure that a jumper is installed so
that the control block is powered from
one of these two points, ie, at the positions marked 1 or 2 for JP1 (across pins
80
Silicon Chip
1 & 2 or pins 3 & 4).
With an oscilloscope, check to see
periodic pulses on the SENSE_EN and
SAMPLE lines (pins 19 & 20 of IC2 respectively). If these are absent, there is
a fault in or around the microcontroller, or it is not receiving power.
If you don’t have a scope, you might
be able to pick up the pulses using the
frequency counter mode on a DMM, or
even an analog voltmeter.
If the microcontroller is functional,
tie the top-most cell to the stack voltage rail (connecting CON5 [CELL2] to
CON2 [STACK+]), and slowly make a
small change to the voltage of one of
the cells.
You should see that the voltage on
the power supply with the lower output voltage increases.
If this is difficult to observe, you can
use an oscilloscope to check the CSPWM/SSPWM lines on the corresponding cell (pins 11 & 17 for the lowest cell
or pins 12 & 18 for the second-lowest).
You should see narrow, square pulses on these lines.
If this test is successful, check the
third and fourth cell sections, but note
that cells must always be populated
in-order from ground; none can be left
empty except at the top.
Australia’s electronics magazine
If you are considering higher-voltage applications, test these carefully,
taking great care to use appropriate
current limits, and ensuring that the
control logic section is powered from
only the lowest possible cell.
This avoids wasted power in the
control regulator (REG1) and potential
damage if its maximum input voltage
is exceeded.
In general, if your lowest expected
cell or battery voltage is above 3.6V,
then you should always leave JP1 in
position 1, so the control circuitry runs
off the lowest cell.
If your lowest expected cell voltage
is lower than this, down to the minimum supported of 2.5V, then it should
always be safe to run the control circuitry off the second cell (position 2
on JP1).
Higher positions are only useful if
you need to ensure that the small current which powers the control section
comes from the whole stack, which
would be unusual.
Final assembly
Once you’ve tested your Balancer
board, it should be enclosed to protect it from dust and other contaminants.
siliconchip.com.au
You can use just about any box that’s
large enough to fit the PCB module,
and which that allows cables to be fed
through. Ideally, it should offer some
method of exposing the LEDs (eg, a
clear lid), potentiometer and pushbutton (possibly via a screwdriver through
small holes in the lid).
Mount the PCB to the bottom of the
case using standoffs so that the board
does not flex, and take care that all of
the components have adequate clearance from the case walls as it can dissipate some heat.
Four mounting holes are provided
to suit M3 machine screws, and plastic or metal spacers can be used. Just
be careful if using metal spacers that
they fit within the copper areas provided around the holes.
Heatsinking is not usually required
on any of the components, but allowing even a modest amount of airflow
will go a long way towards keeping
the Balancer cool, prolonging its life.
In harsh environments, a small temperature-switched fan could be used
(eg, with the thermal switch glued to
transformer T1).
But in most cases, passive airflow
will be adequate, with a few vents or
holes drilled in the bottom and the top,
or the sides of the case, being sufficient
for convection to remove the heat.
Using it
Now that you’ve built and tested
your Balancer, how can you use it?
Before connecting it to a battery,
run through the following checklist
to make sure it’s correctly configured:
1) Configure the source of control power. As described above, if balancing
12V batteries, ensure that the control power source select jumper is
securely installed in the right-most
position (marked 1), so that the lowest cell is providing control power.
If balancing ~3.6V cell (eg, Li-ion,
LiPo or LiFePO4), you will probably
want the power source select jumper in the second-rightmost position,
so that the lowest pair of cells are
providing control power.
2) Connect the battery leads to their
respective terminals. We suggest
connecting them either sequentially
(CELL1, CELL2…) or simultaneously (if using an external connector).
Plug spade quick connects onto
CON8-CON12 for higher-current applications, or a plug designed to mate
with 2.54mm-pitch header pins to
siliconchip.com.au
Screen1: sample serial output.
CON13 for balancing up to 1A.
If using CON13, make sure the
plug orientation is correct, with
the negative-most terminal to pin 1!
There might be small sparks when
connecting battery leads, but these
should be momentary.
3) Finally, connect the stack leads
(STACK- to CON7 and STACK+ to
CON2). If balancing, you can simply
bridge the positive stack voltage terminal to the top-most cell terminal.
For charging, connect the negative
stack terminal to the negative end of
your power source, and the positive
stack terminal to the positive end.
If available, we recommend setting
a reasonably low current limit on your
power source, to help prevent damage
to batteries in case of malfunction.
Making adjustments
Operation is essentially automatic, with the Balancer simply transferring charge based on the differences it
senses in voltage across the batteries
or cells. However, there are some options you can set, either using trimpot
VR1 and pushbutton S1, or via the serial interface.
The options include the minimum
difference between battery/cell voltag-
es for balancing to start, the maximum
balancing current and the minimum
and maximum battery/cell voltages
outside which balancing will cease.
The defaults are for the maximum
possible balancing current (about
2.5A), to begin balancing with a 50mV
imbalance for 12V lead-acid batteries
or a 10mV imbalance for li-ion cells,
and for an operating cell voltage range
of 2.5-4.3V for li-ion applications and
10-14.8V for nominally 12V batteries.
You can change most of these settings using trimpot VR1 and pushbutton switch S1, although a larger range
of configuration and calibration settings are available via the serial/USB
interface.
Table 1 shows the various commands which can be issued by pressing pushbutton S1 in various ways – either a single, long press or with several
short presses in a row. Some of these
control the unit while others adjust settings in combination with the current
rotation of trimpot VR1.
Unfortunately, making settings
changes this way is a bit imprecise. You
can measure the voltage at the wiper of
VR1, either by probing its centre pin
on the bottom of the board with a DVM
or by probing pin 3 of nearby Mosfet
Function
Check that unit is powered up
Pause/resume balancing
Switch between li-ion and lead-acid presets
Set allowable voltage delta (0-300mV/0-1V)
Set maximum balancing current (0-2.5A)
Set minimum battery/cell voltage (0-5/0-15V)
Set maximum battery/cell voltage (0-5/0-15V)
Number of S1 presses
One short (<500ms)
One medium (1-2s)
One long (5s+)
Two short
Three short
Four short
Five short
Table 1: functions accessible by pressing pushbutton S1
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 81
Example
Result
p
r
t 600
l 3000
h 4300
d 50
i2 50
o3 25
c2 100000 6790
st 100000 6812
v 3280
Pauses automatic balancing
Resumes automatic balancing
Set balancing timeout to 600s; if balance not reached in this time, shut down
Set low battery/cell threshold to 3V (3000mV); below this, it shuts down
Set high battery/cell threshold to 4.3V (4300mV); above this, it shuts down
Batteries/cells can vary by up to 50mV before balancing starts
Move charge into battery/cell #2 (1-4) at 50% of maximum rate (1-100)
Move charge out of battery/cell #3 (1-4) at 25% of maximum rate (1-100)
Calibration – set battery/cell divider #2 to have a voltage division ratio of 100kΩ:6.79kΩ
Calibration – set stack divider to have a voltage division ratio of 100kΩ:6.812kΩ
Calibrate – set the typical supply voltage to 3.28V (3280mV)
Table 2: Serial Commands
Q7 relative to GND. You then need to
divide that reading by 1.65V (or better,
the actual measured 1.65V ADC reference voltage) and then multiply by the
range given in Table 1.
If you can hook up the serial interface, you are much better off making
changes that way as they will be exact, and you can also calibrate the unit
properly that way. Read on for further
details on the serial interface.
Monitoring its operation
The simplest way to do this is visually. One of the four LEDs on the
board will flash to indicate when balancing is occurring, with the right-most
LED (LED7) corresponding to the bottom-most cell, LED8 to the next cell
up in the stack, etc.
They blink slowly if a battery/cell is
being charged, or rapidly if a battery/
cell is being discharged.
If no balancing/charging is occurring, LED7 will occasionally flicker
very lightly, just to let you know that
the circuit is ‘alive’, while consuming
as little power as possible.
If there is an over-voltage error, all
four LEDs will flash simultaneously at
1Hz, with a 50% duty cycle.
If an under-voltage error is detected,
the unit simply shuts down and does
not flash the LEDs at all (not even a
heartbeat).
If you are paying attention, the lack
of heartbeat will tell you something is
wrong, and by leaving the LEDs off,
we don’t risk discharging an already
over-discharged cell or battery.
If you want more details of the unit’s
operation and be sure that it is doing
its job, you can monitor the serial port
at CON14. Ideally, this should be con82
Silicon Chip
nected to your computer via an isolating interface (a good one is described
below).
You can then wire the output of
that isolating interface to a USB/serial adaptor.
Set a terminal emulator to 38,400
baud N,8,1 and you should see a stream
of information, like that shown in
Screen1. This shows you the measured
voltage at each input, plus the whole
stack, whether it is currently moving
any charge into or out of a battery/cell,
and how fast it is doing so (0-100%).
The data is both human-readable and
machine-readable, so it would be quite
easy to create software to parse the information and display it differently, or
take actions depending on the results.
As shown in Table 2, you can also
send commands to pause or resume
balancing, change the settings, or even
force it to transfer charge into or out of
a given battery/cell. This means that
you could centralise the control via
a computer program if you are using
several Balancer boards.
Combining multiple balancers
You can use two Balancer boards to
balance up to eight batteries or cells,
as long as the total stack voltage is still
within the 60V DC maximum rating.
The only extra hardware that you need
to do this is an isolated serial link.
Fortunately, we published just such
a design in March 2021 (siliconchip.
From last month’s
SILICON CHIP, this
isolated serial
link is ideal to
link together two
Balancer boards
together.
Australia’s electronics magazine
com.au/Article/14785), and PCBs are
available.
Build that board, but leave off the
headers, and set both jumpers (JP1 &
JP2) to the 5V position (they will actually be supplied with 3.3V, as that is
the only low-voltage rail available on
the Balancer boards).
You can then solder pins 3-6 of either
CON1 or CON2 directly to CON14 on
one of the Battery Balancer boards, as
the pinout is an exact match.
Run a ribbon cable or similar from
the other end of the board to CON14
on the other Balancer board. The wiring will be the same as the other end
and you should have the TX pin on the
Balancer connected to the TX pin on
the Isolator board.
Similarly, the RX pin on the Balancer connects to the RX pin on Isolator. The reversal is effected within
the Isolator.
Then, all you have to do is connect
between one and four contiguous cells/
batteries in your stack to one balancer
board, starting with the CELL1 connection, and join the remainder to
the other.
Connect both full stacks across the
STACK- and STACK+ terminals on
both boards.
The two units will power up and negotiate over the serial link, automatically detecting that they are talking to
each other.
They will then balance as if they are
one eight-input Balancer instead of two
four-input balancers.
Finally, there is an error in the parts
list in last month’s part 1: on p27, several Mosfets (Q11,Q12…) are listed as
“S6M4” types. The correct type code
is QS6M4.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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Use Arduino for your own sensor monitoring.
Z 6459
NEW!
9
$ .95
I2C LCD Module
Connects to a 16x2 LCD allowing you to drive the screen
from just 2 IO pins on an Arduino. 5V input. Supports I2C.
14.95
$
Z 6522A
USB to TTL Cable
A simple way to connect
TTL serial devices to
USB inputs. 1m length.
Jumper Header Kit
K 9642
A huge assortment of single row header
connectors for making your own custom
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199
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This MPPT regulator employs special circuitry
to gain up to 20% additional charge from your
existing solar panels. Suits 12 or 24V systems. Easy to set up and connect yourself.
NEW!
A 2m Anderson
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with USB type C
Power Delivery Charger
(18W) & USB QC 3.0 port for
keeping devices charged.
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NEW PCBs
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS & ICs
As a service to readers, Silicon Chip Online Shop stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and some
selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
$10 MICROS
24LC32A-I/SN
ATmega328P-PU
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PIC10F202-E/OT
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$15 MICROS
EEPROM for Digital FX Unit (Apr21)
RF Signal Generator (Jun19)
RGB Stackable LED Christmas Star (Nov20)
Shirt Pocket Audio Oscillator (Sep20)
Ultrabrite LED Driver (with free TC6502P095VCT IC, Sep19)
LED Christmas Ornaments (Nov20; specify variant)
Car Radio Dimmer Adaptor (Aug19), MiniHeart (Jan21)
Refined Full-Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller (Apr21)
Tiny LED Xmas Tree (Nov19)
Digital Interface Module (Nov18), GPS Finesaver (Jun19)
Digital Lighting Controller LED Slave (Dec20)
Ol’ Timer II (Jul20), Battery Multi Logger (Feb21)
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PIC12F675-I/SN
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$20 MICROS
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DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20)
KITS & SPECIALISED COMPONENTS
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR (CAT SC5732)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3 KIT (CAT SC5082)
(JAN 21)
All SMD parts, including IC2 – does not include PCB
$5.00
AM/FM/SW RADIO
(JAN 21)
$2.50
$3.00
$7.50
- PCB-mount right-angle SMA socket (SC4918)
- Pulse-type rotary encoder with integral pushbutton (SC5601)
- 16x2 LCD module (does not use I2C module) (SC4198)
LED CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS (CAT SC5579)
(NOV 20)
$14.00
Complete kit including micro but no coin cell (specify PCB shape & colour)
RGB STACKABLE LED CHRISTMAS STAR (CAT SC5525)
(NOV 20)
$38.50
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D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK KIT
(OCT 20)
$70.00
Complete kit including 3.5-inch touchscreen, PCB and ESP8266-based module
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
(SEP 20)
Kit: including 3D-printed case, and everything else except the battery and wiring
- 64x32 pixel white OLED (0.49-inch/12.5mm diagonal)
- Pulse-type rotary encoder with integral pushbutton
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 in stock now
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$10.00
$3.00
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Short form kit: includes everything except the case, CPU module, power supply,
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$30.00
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$5.00
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$10.00
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$3.00
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$5.00
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$1.50
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$2.00
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- Spin FV-1 IC (Digital FX Unit, Apr21)
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- MCP4251-502E/P (Arduino Power Supply, Feb21)
- Pair of CSD18534 (Electronic Wind Chimes, Feb21)
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- MAX038 function generator IC (H-Field Transanalyser, May20)
- MC1496P double-balanced mixer (H-Field Transanalyser, May20)
- AD8495 thermocouple interface (DIY Reflow Oven Controller, Apr20)
- I/O expander modules (Nov19):
PCA9685 – $6.00 ¦ PCF8574 – $3.00 ¦ MCP23017 – $3.00
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04/21
64-KEY
This simple project turns an Arduino into a MIDI key matrix. These are
popular with musicians for triggering samples, but commercial versions cost
hundreds of dollars. Ours costs a fraction of that, and you can customise it by
changing the Arduino software. It supports regular or illuminated buttons and
can also be programmed to act as a MIDI pass-through, among other roles.
T
his project was inspired by a
reader request to create something similar to the Infra-red
Remote Control Assistant project
from July 2020 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14505) but for MIDI.
MIDI is a standard that allows musical instruments and computers to
communicate. Just in case you didn’t
know, MIDI is an acronym for Musical
Instrument Digital Interface.
A MIDI encoder takes inputs from
a musical instrument (such as a keyboard) and converts them into MIDI
format. Such a device could be connected to a computer to record playing, or
to a synthesiser, to turn the MIDI data
back into music.
Such devices commonly utilise 8x8
switch matrices to generate up to 64
different MIDI messages; they effectively emulate a five-octave keyboard with
some keys to spare. This allows you
to easily interface with a synthesiser
or digital audio workstation (DAW) to
generate music from real-world inputs.
The Arduino community has done a
lot of the work for this already, creating libraries which can generate MIDI
messages both in hardware (as serial
88
Silicon Chip
data) and also as a virtual USB MIDI
device (which many DAW PC applications can read).
The basic system can be implemented with not much more than
an Arduino Leonardo development
board. The Leonardo is based on an
ATmega32U4 microcontroller, which
has a USB peripheral. Along with an
Arduino library, that makes this job
much easier.
To do this, the Leonardo scans columns assigned to eight of its I/O pins
and checks if they have been shorted
against any of eight other I/O pins, assigned to the button rows, thus giving
up to 64 combinations. These 16 I/O
pins are then wired to an array of tactile switches or pushbuttons which
form the keys.
This simple system cannot detect
more than one ’closure’ at a time, so any
state that is identified as having more
than one button pressed is reported as
‘nothing pressed’. Some, but not all,
combinations of multiple keys could
be identified, but we have erred on the
side of keeping this simple.
To be able to detect simultaneous
keypresses correctly would require a
Australia’s electronics magazine
diode to be fitted to each switch (and
would also make our simple device
considerably more complicated).
Each key (close or release) event results in a MIDI event being sent over
USB. We are using the Leonardo’s hardware serial port to generate a hardware MIDI signal. This can then be fed
through our MIDI Shield, described
below, to convert it to the correct electrical format to go to a synthesiser etc.
Note that if all you want to do is send
MIDI events to a computer over USB,
you don’t even need to build the Shield.
But you probably will want to assemble
our Switch Matrix PCB, also described
later, as wiring up the switches manually would be a lot of work!
To help make this project more useful, we’ve also added a very basic synthesiser to the Leonardo. A PWM signal
is produced from pin 13, approximating a sinewave at the frequency of the
note being played. The waveform shape
is defined in an array, so it could be
changed to produce a different sound.
This sound can be heard by connecting a piezo transducer between pin 13
and GND of the Leonardo, although
these devices don’t have a great resiliconchip.com.au
Part 1 –
by Tim Blythman
MATRIX
Use this photo
to help guide your
wiring between the
MIDI Shield and the
Switch Matrix PCB.
In all cases, pin 1 goes
to pin 1 (the green
wire), but CON1 on one
PCB goes to CON2 on the
other and vice versa.
sponse to lower frequencies. Hence,
our MIDI shield also provides an audio amplifier which can drive a speaker
(the larger the better – they’re usually
more efficient) for better audio quality.
While we were at it, we thought we’d
also add a MIDI Input to the Shield. As
presented here, all you can use that for
is to replicate the received data directly
to the MIDI Output, allowing this device to act as a basic extender. However, the hardware is set up to allow the
micro on the Leonardo to receive and
decode the incoming MIDI data, so with
appropriate software, it could do a variety of other jobs.
The MIDI Encoder Shield
This small PCB is an Arduino ‘shield’
(aka daughterboard) which adds some
useful hardware for interfacing with
MIDI equipment.
The board effectively combines four
different ‘modules’ which operate independently. That means that, if you
don’t need all of the functions, you can
leave off some of the parts.
These four parts are the interface to
the switch matrix, an audio amplifier,
a MIDI transmitter and a MIDI receivsiliconchip.com.au
er. The circuit diagram for the whole
Shield, incorporating those four sections, is shown in Fig.1.
Switch matrix
Since the switches are intended to
be mounted off-board, we have just
provided some convenient connection
points on the PCB.
CON1 and CON2 are standard
2.54mm (0.1in) pitch headers, and
could be fitted with pin headers or sockets. For prototyping, we recommend
header sockets, as these allow jumper
wires to be plugged in.
CON1A and CON2A have a 3.5mm
pitch and are sized to fit smaller screw
terminals such as Altronics’ P2028.
This is a good way to rig up something
more permanent. You could also solder wires directly to any of these pads.
Note that the pins marked with the
arrows correspond to the ‘lowest’ ends
of each row and column. Thus, shorting the two pins marked with arrows
will give the lowest note. Shorting the
two pads at the opposite ends will give
the highest note.
You will probably not be able to
install both of CON1 and CON1A or
Australia’s electronics magazine
CON2 and CON2A, as the headers will
foul the cable entries for the screw terminals. Thus, you should choose which
of the two you will fit before starting
construction.
Audio amplifier
The amplifier circuit is based around
IC1, an SSM2211 class-AB amplifier
IC, which we previously used in the
AM/FM/SW Radio published in January 2021. It provides a push-pull output at up to 1.5W into 4Ω, so it is a
good choice for low supply voltages.
A 100nF capacitor bypasses its supply
rails at pins 6 and 7.
Jumper JP2 can be used to connect
Arduino pin D13 to the amplifier. If you
want to use another I/O pin to feed the
amplifier, it can be patched into JP2.
IC1 is surrounded by components to
condition the input signal (including
filtering out any high-frequency PWM
artefacts) and to set the gain.
The 1kΩ resistor and 100nF capacitor provide low-pass filtering to remove
PWM switching harmonics from the
generated audio signal. This results in
the 180kHz PWM frequencies being attenuated by around 40dB.
April 2021 89
l
SC
Ó
MIDI SHIELD FOR ARDUINO
The 10µF capacitor provides AC-coupling into the amplifier, while the other
100nF capacitor provides bypassing of
the internal mid-rail reference output
on pin 2 of IC1. This reference rail is
fed directly to pin 3, the non-inverting input, as we are supplying a single-ended signal.
The half-rail reference also biases
the inverting input via the 1MΩ resistor, while the filtered audio comes into
the inverting input via a 10kΩ resistor.
The amplifier’s A output (at pin 5) is
also fed back in to pin 4 via VR1. This
is used to set the gain, and thus the resulting sound volume.
The B output at pin 8 is derived from
the A output using an internal inverting
stage referenced to the mid-rail voltage.
Thus, the overall gain of the circuit is
90
Silicon Chip
Fig.1: the circuit of our MIDI Shield. It is broken
up into four modules: the MIDI input, MIDI output,
audio amplifier and pushbutton matrix interface.
You only need to install parts corresponding to the
parts you wish to use. Note that our sample software
does not make use of the MIDI input (CON4).
double the value of the feedback resistor divided by the value of the input
resistor. The factor of two is due to the
outputs being bridged.
VR1 can be used to linearly set the
output level from zero (at 0Ω) to fullrail (at 10kΩ).
But note that this is limited by the
fact that the outputs can only get within 400mV of the power rails. The pushpull outputs mean that the total maximum swing is around 8V peak-to-peak.
The complementary push-pull outputs also mean that the quiescent state
has both outputs near the mid-rail level, so little (if any) direct current flows
through the speaker, and thus no output
coupling capacitor is needed.
The complementary outputs at pins
5 and 8 are connected to screw termiAustralia’s electronics magazine
nal CON5, for wiring up a 4Ω or 8Ω
speaker. The SSM2211 can deliver up
to 350mA, giving up to 1.5W into a 4Ω
load or about 1W into an 8Ω load.
MIDI transmitter
While the Arduino Leonardo can
generate the MIDI signal in software,
we need some hardware to feed this
to a standard MIDI device, like a synthesiser (which is likely to sound better than our little speaker) or even a
USB-MIDI converter for feeding the
data to a computer.
This is quite simple, as the MIDI interface uses optoisolated connections
at the receiver end.
We use two 220Ω resistors to connect
the 5V supply to pin 4 of 5-pin DIN
socket CON3, and the MIDI signal to
siliconchip.com.au
pin 5. At the receiving end, we expect
another 220Ω resistor and an optoisolator with a forward voltage of around
1.5V, giving a nominal 5mA current
flow when our micro pin is low during
data transmission.
Note that the signal from the micro
must jump from pin 4 of JP1 to pin 3
to reach CON3. The signal itself is just
31,250 baud serial, easily generated by
the Leonardo’s UART peripheral.
JP1 allows the signal to be patched in
from another pin, if you wish to use the
Shield for some other MIDI application.
Otherwise, you’d just leave a jumper
shorting pins 3 & 4.
Note the use of the 5V rail for the return signal. Since the serial idle state
is a high level, this means that no current will flow in the loop when data is
not being transmitted; the same as in
the disconnected state.
CON3’s pin 2 and its DIN shield are
connected to ground at the transmitter
end only, to avoid ground loops.
MIDI receiver
As alluded to above, the MIDI receiver consists of a 220Ω resistor and
an optoisolator connected between
pins 4 and 5 of CON4. Diode D1 protects against a reverse voltage which
another device might apply. So when
pin 4 is a couple of volts higher than
pin 5, the internal LED in OPTO1 is
forward-biased, and thus its output
transistor conducts.
The specifications for the 6N138 suggest that under adverse conditions, the
propagation delay of the 6N138 could
violate the timing requirements of the
MIDI signal. But most MIDI designs
appear to use this device without any
problems.
The circuit is compatible with the
6N137 optoisolator, which, as we noted in our Digital Lighting Controller
article (October 2020; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/351), requires more current to
operate, but is much faster. The nominal 5mA loop current is close to the
minimum recommended for the 6N137,
but should be sufficient under most
conditions.
In either case, the output side of
OPTO1 has power supplied at pins 8
(5V) and 5 (GND), bypassed by a 100nF
capacitor. The output, pin 6, is pulled
up to 5V by a 1kΩ resistor and is pulled
to GND whenever the opto’s LED is forward-biased.
This output signal is fed via pins 1
& 2 of JP1 to the Leonardo’s UART RX
siliconchip.com.au
pin, D1. This can also be patched into
another pin if necessary.
JP1 also offers the possibility of using
the Shield as a MIDI bridge, by placing the jumper across the middle two
pins (pins 2 & 3). This will connect
the output of OPTO1 to the transmitter at CON3, passing any signal straight
through.
This might not be much use on its
own, but could be used in combination
with a connection to the Leonardo’s
RX as a MIDI signal monitor or sniffer.
Switch & LED Matrix
We imagine that most people using
our MIDI Encoder will hook it up to a
bunch of tactile switches in a matrix
to trigger the various notes. You could
do this manually, which is the cheapest option, but it would be a lot of repetitive work.
So we’ve designed a PCB which
breaks out 64 tactile switches to a pair
of eight-way headers, which can be directly connected to the headers on the
MIDI Shield (or even straight to the
Leonardo). We have even incorporated
LED wiring so that you can use illuminated switches.
We’ve designed the Switch Matrix to
fit the larger 12mm footprint switches,
as some of these have nice big buttons
that are easy on the fingers.
We also added footprints to suit
small illuminated tactile switches like
Jaycar’s SP0620/SP0622 or Altronics’
S1101/S1103. These also suit the typical 6mm tactile switches, for which
you might like to add keycaps (eg, 3D
printed ones) for a larger key area.
If you fit illuminated switches, you
can use the separate bank of eight-way
headers to interface their internal LEDs.
Current-limiting resistors are included
for each row.
All these embellishments are optional. Since the original aim was to create
a MIDI Encoder at minimal cost, nothing is stopping you from buying a bulk
lot of simple switches to populate the
Switch Matrix.
Fig.3 shows the circuit diagram for
the Switch Matrix with all parts fitted.
The resistors are only needed if you are
using illuminated switches. The LED
polarity is not fixed by the PCB, but can
be changed by rotating the buttons 180°
on installation.
When the Switch Matrix’s CON1
and CON2 are connected to the MIDI
shield’s CON2 and CON1 respectively (all pin 1 to pin 1), pressing S1 will
Australia’s electronics magazine
trigger the lowest note, S2 the next note
and so on. You can swap or reverse the
connectors to change this order.
The LEDs are similarly wired to
CON3 and CON4, although there is
no corresponding output on the MIDI
shield or Leonardo (since we’ve already
used all the Leonardo’s pins). Thus,
if you want individual LED control,
you’ll need a separate circuit.
Later, we’ll describe some sample
Arduino code to light up the LEDs using simple timer-based multiplexing.
Alternatively, if you just want the
LEDs to light up, you could connect
all of CON3’s pins to a 5V supply and
CON4’s pins to ground (assuming the
LED cathodes are towards the top of
the PCB).
Switch options
If you wish to use non-illuminated
switches, then you should ensure that
they suit the footprints we have used,
which measure 6.5mm x 4.5mm for the
smaller parts and 12.5mm x 5mm for
the larger parts.
We recommend using a larger switch
with a large actuator surface for easeof-use.
The switches are installed on a
16mm pitch, so if you are using separate keycaps, make sure they are smaller than 16x16mm.
For illuminated parts, the footprints
suit some smaller switches. One critical
factor here is to check the LED polarity
before fitting. This will depend on the
design of your drive circuitry. For our
examples, we have assumed that the
LED anodes are towards the top (S1S8) of the PCB.
Our design assumes that the pins in
the corners of the switch are shorted
when the button is pressed, and open
the rest of the time. Since most switches have pairs of pads connected internally lengthwise, that will typically
be the case.
Shield construction
Before assembling the Shield, decide
which set of the four sections you will
need. If you are unsure, it’s probably
safest to build them all.
Note that the MIDI receiver section
is not used in our MIDI Encoder software, although we would be inclined
to build it anyway, as we think the
Shield will be a great way to tinker
with MIDI, which you might want to
do in the future.
Also, you will find it is harder to fit
April 2021 91
parts later, especially after the headers are fitted.
We will explain the construction
procedure as though all parts are to be
fitted, but you can omit any you don’t
need. Refer now to the Shield PCB
overlay diagram, Fig.2, along with the
same-size photo, which show which
parts go where.
Start with IC1, as it is the only surface-mounted part. We chose the SOIC
(small outline IC) version as the alternative is a DFN (dual flat no-lead) package, which is a lot harder to solder. We
recommend that you have some solder
flux paste, tweezers, a magnifier and
solder wicking braid on hand for fitting this chip.
Check the orientation of the chip; pin
1 goes to the pad nearest the notch on
the silkscreen. The chip itself will be
marked with a bevel along one edge,
which corresponds to the stripe shown
on the PCB (best seen from end-on), and
also with a dot near pin 1.
Apply some flux to IC1’s pads on the
PCB and rest the chip in place. Apply
a small amount of solder to the tip of
the soldering iron and touch it to one
pin to tack the IC in place.
Check that the IC is flat and square
with all pins within their pads. If not,
adjust the IC’s position with tweezers
while melting the solder on the pin.
Once you are happy that it is correctly
placed, carefully solder the remaining
pins. This can be done by applying a
little more flux to the top of the pins
and adding some solder to the iron’s tip.
Touch the tip of the iron against
where each pin meets its pad and the
flux should induce a small amount of
solder to run into the joint.
Don’t worry about solder bridges
between pins as long as the IC is correctly placed.
Once all the pins are secured, check
for bridges with a magnifier. Apply
more flux and rest the braid on top of
the affected pins. Gently rest the iron
on the braid until the solder melts and
carefully pull it away from the IC once
it draws up excess solder.
Clean up any excess flux using the
recommended solvent. Isopropyl alcohol works well for most fluxes, although you should take care as it is
flammable.
Through-hole parts
Now you can mount the resistors.
Check their values with a multimeter
if you are unsure of the colour codes,
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Silicon Chip
Fig.2: use this overlay diagram
and the photo above as a
guide when assembling the
MIDI Shield PCB. Apart from
IC1 (which is the amplifier
for the speaker), all parts are
common through-hole types.
While IC1 is an SMD, it can be
soldered without any special
tools, although we recommend
using tweezers and a magnifier.
Solder it first so that you aren’t
restricted by nearby parts.
and match them to the values printed
on the silkscreen. Next, fit the capacitors, as shown in Fig.2.
There is only one diode, and it must
be soldered with its cathode band
aligned with the mark on the PCB silkscreen.
Trimpot VR1 will only fit in one orientation, but you might need to bend
its leads slightly, after which it should
snap into place.
After soldering its leads, check that
it is set near its mid-point, which is a
safe default.
OPTO1, like IC1, must be orientated correctly. The notch in its body
should face towards the centre of the
PCB, with pin 1 on the side nearest the
(currently vacant) DIN sockets. We used
an IC socket so that we could test out
a few different optoisolators, but we
recommend that you solder it directly
to the PCB.
Install JP1 and JP2 next, with the
jumper shunts inserted to hold the pins
in place. They also provide a bit of thermal insulation if you need to manipulate the jumpers while soldering them,
although this should be done with care
as they can get quite hot.
Solder the headers in place, ensuring
that they are flat against the PCB and
Australia’s electronics magazine
straight, then move the jumpers to the
default positions shown in Fig.2.
Now fit either CON1 or CON1A, and
CON2 or CON2A. If you are fitting the
screw terminal headers (CON1A and
CON2A), ensure that these are orientated with the wire entry holes facing
out of the PCB.
If you have a collection of shorter terminals, slot them together into a single
block using tabs on their ends before
soldering them.
Mount CON5 next. Like CON1A and
CON2A, make sure that the wire entries face the edge of the PCB. Follow
with the DIN sockets (CON3 & CON4).
They should only fit in one way. Solder one pin and check that they are
sitting correctly before soldering the
remaining pins.
The final parts are the headers used
to attach the Shield to the Leonardo
board, which are mounted on the underside of the board.
The easiest way to manage this is to
fit the headers to the Leonardo board,
then slot the Shield onto the headers.
Check that the PCB is flat and if necessary, trim any long leads on the underside of the Shield that may be preventing it from sitting flat. Then solder
each pin from the top side of the PCB.
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MIDI SHIELD SWITCH MATRIX
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Fig.3: there isn’t much to the Switch Matrix circuit. Each pin
of each connector goes to either a row or column of contacts
on the switches or LEDs.
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April 2021 93
Parts list – MIDI Shield
1 double-sided PCB coded 23101211, 69 x 54mm
1 Arduino Leonardo module
2 6-way pin headers (part of the Arduino shield headers)
1 8-way pin header (part of the Arduino shield headers)
1 10-way pin header (part of the Arduino shield headers)
Switch matrix interface parts
2 8-way pin headers or sockets (CON1,CON2) OR
2 8-way 3.5mm screw terminals (CON1A,CON2A) [eg, 8 x Altronics P2028]
wiring to switch matrix
Audio amplifier parts
1 4-8Ω 1W loudspeaker
1 2-way 5/5.08mm-pitch screw terminal (CON5)
1 2-pin header and jumper shunt (JP2)
1 SSM2211 audio amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC1)
3 100nF 63V MKT capacitors
1 10µF through-hole ceramic capacitor (ideally 5.08mm lead pitch)
1 1MΩ 1% 1/4W metal film resistor
1 10kΩ 1% 1/4W metal film resistor
1 1kΩ 1% 1/4W metal film resistor
1 10kΩ mini horizontal trimpot (VR1)
MIDI output parts
1 5-pin, 180° DIN socket, right-angle PCB mount (CON3)
[eg Jaycar PS0350, Altronics P1188B]
1 4-pin header and jumper shunt (JP1)
2 220Ω 1% 1/4W metal film resistor
MIDI input parts
1 5-pin, 180° DIN socket, right-angle PCB mount (CON4)
[eg Jaycar PS0350, Altronics P1188B)
1 4-pin header and jumper shunt (JP1)
1 6N138 optoisolator, DIP-8 (OPTO1)
1 1N4148 small signal diode (D1)
1 100nF 63V MKT capacitor
1 1kΩ 1% 1/4W metal film resistor
2 220Ω 1% 1/4W metal film resistors
Parts list – 8x8 Switch Matrix
1 double-sided PCB coded 23101212, 131 x 140mm
64 tactile pushbutton switches* (S1-S64) – see text
2 8-way pin headers (CON1,CON2)
16 female-female DuPont jumper leads (to connect CON1 & CON2 to the MIDI Shield)
M3 mounting screws and spacers to suit your application (optional)
* we used Diptronics DTS-21N-V (non-illuminated, from Mouser) and C&K ILSTA250
30 (illuminated, from Digi-Key). Jaycar SP0620/SP0622 and Altronics S1101/
S1103 are also suitable alternatives.
Extra parts for illuminated switches
2 8-way pin headers (CON3,CON4)
16 female-female DuPont jumper leads (for CON3 & CON4)
8 1/4W axial resistors to suit LEDs
That completes the construction of
the Shield.
Switch Matrix construction
We recommend fitting the resistors
first as they sit lower than the switches, although if you are not using illuminated switches, they are not required.
Follow by mounting the switches. If
they are illuminated types, choose the
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Silicon Chip
orientation based on your LED wiring
needs, and ensure that all LEDs face
the same way.
If you don’t have illuminated switches, then their orientations won’t matter.
Push each switch in place and ensure
it is sitting flat before soldering. We’ve
slightly oversized the holes to allow for
some variation in parts, but the switches should still snap into place.
Australia’s electronics magazine
One good way of ensuring that they
are all aligned is to insert all the buttons, then rest a flat board on top, hold
onto this board and the PCB, then flip
the assembly over. The flat board will
align the tops of the switches.
Solder all the terminals to the PCB
and trim them if they are long.
Finally, fit headers CON1, CON2,
CON3 and CON4 as needed. We used
socket strips on our prototypes, as we
had a handful of pre-made eight-way
cables that we could run directly to the
headers on the MIDI PCB. We suggest
that you figure out how you will be
mounting the board (see below) before
soldering these, and test-fit the headers/
cables, as that might affect what connectors you need.
You could solder ribbon cable
straight to the pads on the Switch Matrix PCB and then to the MIDI PCB;
that is the cheapest way to connect the
two boards.
But headers make the wiring removable, which can be handy.
If soldering wires to the board, you
could run them to the underside of
the PCB if you will be mounting it on
spacers.
If you need those wires to be pluggable, you could mount right-angle pin
headers on the underside.
Note on our photos that the wire
from pin 1 of CON1 on the MIDI PCB
goes to pin 1 of CON2 on the Switch
Matrix PCB, and pin 1 of CON2 on the
MIDI PCB goes to pin 1 of CON1 on the
Switch Matrix PCB.
Mounting the Switch Matrix
Despite the small space available,
we’ve squeezed seven M3 mounting
holes into the design.
Some of these might not be usable
depending on the switches you have
chosen, although an M3 screw should
still fit in the central hole, even with
12mm switches fitted.
The PCB material is strong, but repeated flexing from enthusiastic keypresses could fatigue it, so we recommend mounting it to something solid,
like a piece of plywood.
Use some short spacers or a stack of
washers to provide clearance for the
component leads under the PCB.
Wiring up switches manually
If you really want to do it this way,
you can. Wire up the switches in rows
and columns like in our circuit (see
Fig.3).
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: overlay diagram for the
Switch Matrix PCB. This is
shown with 12mm large nonilluminated tactile switches
in place; they fit to the four
pads just outside the switch
footprint. The next set of four
pads are for smaller 6mm
switches, while the innermost
two pads are for the LEDs of
illuminated switches. Most
illuminated switches are
reversible, so that the LEDs
can be installed with either
polarity.
If you have built the MIDI Shield,
connect the rows and columns to CON1
and CON2 respectively, with the ends
going to the lowest-numbered switch
at pin 1 in each case.
If you’re using a bare Leonardo to
pass MIDI messages to a computer via
USB, you can instead use Fig.1 as a
guide for the wiring, as it shows how
rows and columns connect to the Arduino pins.
You can connect a piezo buzzer between pin D13 and the adjacent GND
for sound output, and raw MIDI data
is available at pin D1 (TX), referenced
to one of the GND pins.
Software
If you don’t already have the Arduino IDE (integrated development environment) installed on your computer,
download it from www.arduino.cc/
en/software (it’s free and available for
Windows, Mac and Linux).
If you already have the IDE, check
that you are using a recent version (at
siliconchip.com.au
least 1.8.x). We are using version 1.8.12.
Launch the IDE and open the Library
Manager (Sketch -> Include Libraries ->
Manage Libraries) and search to “TimerOne”. This library is used to provide
regular timer interrupts to produce the
audio waveform. Install it now, if you
don’t already have it on your system.
The second library we need is called
MIDIUSB and can be found by searching for “MIDIUSB” in the Library Manager.
The final library is simply called
“MIDI Library”. Several different libraries are found in a search for “midi”,
so you should see our screenshot
(Screen1) to verify that you have found
the correct library.
We have also included the zipped
versions of all three libraries in our
download package, which you can install via the Sketch -> Include Library
-> Add Zip Library menu option.
MIDI Library is set up to use the
hardware serial port on the Leonardo’s
pins D0 and D1, with the MIDI data
Australia’s electronics magazine
being produced at the TX pin, D1. We
tested this with an Arduino synthesiser sketch, and it worked as expected.
Once all the libraries are installed,
open the ‘MIDI_ENCODER’ sketch. Select the serial port of the Leonardo and
upload the sketch to the Leonardo.
In our sketch, the SAMPLE_RATE
define is set to an integer number of
microseconds between interrupts (to
minimise rounding errors).
This is followed by the sinewave
data, as 256 unsigned integer bytes
(0-255).
The matrix pin definitions follow
this. The rows each contribute a multiple of +8 to the key number, while the
columns contribute +1. The key count
thus spans zero to 63, and is offset by
the START_NOTE value, which we’ve
set to 28. That means that the MIDI
Encoder will produce notes from E1
(about 41Hz) up to G6 (1568Hz), centred near middle C (262Hz).
The range is limited to 64 notes by
the size of the matrix, but changing
April 2021 95
At left is the non-illuminated version of the Switch Matrix, at right the rear of the illuminated version; note the extra
leads, tapped standoffs and CON3 and CON4 fitted at the bottom. These are shown about 3/4 life size. The actual PCB size
is 131 x 140mm.
the start note changes where that range
spans.
The notes[] array sets the frequencies that are produced on pin D13.
You might want to tweak these if they
don’t sound right or you prefer a different scale.
Some parameters associated with the
library follow. These set the channel
and velocity that are used in the data
that is sent. The defaults should work
with most software, although some
programs might map channel 0 (in the
Arduino code) to channel 1.
Testing the Shield
At this stage, you should have built
the Shield, plugged it into the already
programmed Arduino Leonardo and attached the Switch Matrix (or whatever
switches you will be using).
Plug the Leonardo into a USB port,
launch the Arduino IDE (if it isn’t already running), make sure the correct
COM port is still selected, then open
the Arduino Serial Monitor.
Start pressing buttons in the matrix,
one at a time. You should see the Serial Monitor report that S1 causes UP/
DOWN actions on MIDI note 0. This
is because we’ve started the switch
numbering at 1, but the MIDI notes
begin at 0.
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Silicon Chip
If you check that the four corner keys
are correct (the switch number is one
more than the note number), then the
remaining keys are probably correct. If
you find that you get incorrect notes,
try flipping the connections end for end
at CON1 or CON2 on the Switch Matrix PCB, or swapping CON1 for CON2.
Test all the keys; if you see any single
keypresses not being detected, check
the PCB for bad solder joins on the corresponding switch.
Usage
After the sketch is uploaded, the
Leonardo appears as a native USB-MIDI device to a computer.
As well as the audio and USB and
hardware MIDI outputs, the Leonardo also prints information to the serial monitor (accessible from the Leonardo’s native USB-serial port) about
which note is being played. This can
be handy for testing.
We used a program called MuseScore (https://musescore.org/en) to test
that the computer was correctly receiving MIDI data.
It automatically detected that a MIDI
device was present and played synthesised piano sounds, although it can
also transcribe to played notes among
other features.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Without a computer, you will have
to connect something to the audio output (on pin 13) or the hardware MIDI
data (on pin 1).
As we noted, we tested another Arduino sketch which worked as a synthesiser (this sketch expects MIDI data
on the Arduino’s serial port; typically
pin 0). This might be a better option
if you would like to get better sounds
without much expense.
Note that it is possible to trigger
sounds from the Shield using simple
jumper wires. Anything that connects
one of the row wires to one of the column wires will trigger a sound.
Using something like the cheap
membrane matrix keypads could be a
simple way of adding an input device,
especially if you want to create percussion sounds. Four of the 4x4 matrixes
could be connected to give the full complement of 64 inputs. Just make sure
to wire up each matrix to a different
combination of row and column wires.
Of course, since we’ve included the
Arduino source, code, you can use it as
a starting point for creating your own
MIDI-based project.
LED test sketch
We have created a test Arduino
sketch to light the LEDs if you have
siliconchip.com.au
fitted illuminated switches. We’re assuming that you’ve fitted them with
the anodes to the top, as we did on our
prototype.
We also assume that you’ve got the
Arduino IDE installed, including the
libraries for the MIDI Encoder. We
only need the TimerOne library for
this sketch.
Open the “MATRIX_LED_DRIVER”
sketch and upload it to the Leonardo.
Connect CON3 of the Switch Matrix
PCB to CON2 on the MIDI Encoder.
Then connect CON4 of the Switch Matrix PCB to CON1 on the MIDI Encoder.
You should see a diagonal row of
LEDs light up. You can change the
starting state with the LED[] array, and
manipulate this in the loop() function
to animate.
We’ve also created a self animating
version ‘MATRIX_LED_DRIVER_GOL’,
which implements a simple “Conway’s
Game of Life” simulation on the 8x8
matrix. The array is loaded with a pair
of ‘gliders’, which move as long the Matrix is powered.
You can find out more at https://
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conway%27s_
Game_of_Life
Using it
If you’ve built the amplifier section,
now would be a good time to wire up
a speaker. Generally, a short length of
twin-core cable is all you need to wire
it up, and most speakers have tabs that
suit soldering or quick-connect spade
The MIDI Encoder Shield
PCB simply slots onto the
Leonardo board using header
pins. Our build shows all
parts fitted except for the
headers CON1 and CON2.
This is because screw
terminals CON1A and
CON2A are fitted
instead. There’s
no point fitting
stackable
headers as
practically all
of the
Leonardo’s pins
are used up.
lugs. The other ends of the wires can
then be screwed into CON5. The polarity doesn’t matter much as the output
at CON5 is AC.
With the MIDI Encoder sketch uploaded to your Leonardo, you should
be able to get a tone from the speaker by
connecting any of CON1’s pads to any
of CON2’s pads (eg, by pressing a button on the attached key matrix). However, we found that our small speaker
was not able to render the lower notes
too loudly.
If the audio is distorted, reduce the
volume by turning VR1 anti-clockwise.
The mid-point should be audible for
practically all speakers, so if you can’t
hear anything, check your construction
before increasing the volume.
The MIDI output socket (CON3) can
be connected to the MIDI input port of
another device, such as an electronic
piano or DAW (digital audio workstation).
Similarly, the MIDI input connection
(CON4) can be driven from another device’s MIDI output port.
Note that CON4 does not do anything with our default software, as it is
not programmed to have any function.
Conclusion
While originally intended as a simple bit of hardware to make better use
of the MIDI Encoder software, we think
that this Shield will be handy for anyone who wants to dabble in custom
MIDI hardware.
Screen1: the Arduino Library Manager will give a lot of results for a ‘midi’ search, so use the one highlighted here or use
the zip version.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 97
This is the deluxe version of the matrix PCB, with illuminated switches, although you’ll have to provide your own keycaps
(this might be a good use for that 3D printer!). We’ve fitted it with standoffs to prevent the pointy leads from damaging the
surface it’s on or, conversely, shorting out on any conductive surface. Note the Shield PCB at left fitted with only headers
to allow it to be used as a USB MIDI device only.
It could, for example, be used as a
MIDI synthesiser by using the hardware MIDI input (CON4) or USB MIDI
input (in software) to receive MIDI
messages and turn them into sounds
from the speaker.
In a follow-up article, we will show
how to control illuminated pushbuttons from our MIDI sketch. This requires some extra hardware, as the
Leonardo doesn’t have enough pins
free to do this by itself.
We will also describe how to connect this device to a smartphone or
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tablet running Android, and install a
MIDI synthesiser app which can then
be controlled using the Key Matrix.
We also intend for this article to
contain some more detailed information on the MIDI protocol, for those
who wish to expand upon our software, or are just interested to learn
how it works.
Note that the Switch Matrix presented here could be useful in many other contexts; it doesn’t have to be used
for MIDI.
It can serve as a general-purpose
Australia’s electronics magazine
switch array with up to eight rows and
eight columns; you don’t even need to
populate all the switches.
For example, you could wire up the
row and column headers to an Arduino Mega board (or similar) and use it
as a general keyboard, to type in letters and numbers etc (with suitably
labelled keycaps).
And as the Mega has many more pins
than the Leonardo, it could also easily
drive the LED matrix to light up keys
as they are typed, show which keys are
SC
valid inputs etc.
siliconchip.com.au
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• Timer/counter for control peripheral provides dedicated timers for
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• Four serial communication modules that can be configured to
act as a USART, UART, SPI, I2C,
RS485 or LIN bus interface.
• 12-channel direct memory access
controller with CRC module.
• Functional pin compatibility with
current SAM C20 devices in 32and 48-pin packages.
Microchip Technology Inc.
Unit 32, 41 Rawson Street
Epping 2121 NSW
Tel: (02) 9868 6733
www.microchip.com
New analog products from Maxim provide double the battery life
The MAX41400 (https://bit.ly/
MAX41400 Product) instrumentation amplifier enhances sensor system accuracy by four times and extends battery life by 55% compared
to the closest competitive offering.
The MAX41400 provides low offset
of 25µV, low noise and programmable gain with only 65µA current consumption.
The MAX40108 (https://bit.ly/
MAX40108 Product) is the lowestvoltage precision opamp in its class,
operating with supplies as low as 0.9V.
The combination of low operational supply voltage, lower power consumption and 25.5µA quiescent current allows engineers to double sensor
battery life.
The MAX31343 (https://bit.ly/
MAX31343 Product) I2C RTC with
integrated MEMS oscillator provides
timekeeping accuracy of ±5ppm, substantially better than the closest competitor, plus robust protection afforded
by a MEMS resonator.
With its integrated resonator, the
MAX31343 eliminates crystal me-
chanical failures and enables the
smallest WLP compared to any other
competitor in the market.
All these products are offered with
multiple and small form factor package choices.
Maxim Integrated
160 Rio Robles
San Jose, CA 95134 USA
www.maximintegrated.com
New APEM Q25 & Q30 series LED indicators
The Q25 and Q30 series LED indicators use a PCB with 6 SMT chips and
built-in failsafe protection.
A molded Fresnel lens scatters the
LED light to give that all-round illumination making long distance and
daylight viewing crystal clear.
This series is suitable for material handling or off-highway vehicles
where reverse and over voltage protection is required. It also comes with low
heat generation suitable for mounting
into heat sensitive plastics. The chamsiliconchip.com.au
gered bezel is made from 316L marine
grade stainless steel and is IP67 and
IP69K front panel sealed.
Control Devices is the official APEM
distributor for Australia and New Zealand.
Control Devices
Unit 17, 69 O’Riordan Street
Alexandria, NSW 2015
Phone: (02) 9930 1700
Web: www.controldevices.com.au
Mail: sales<at>controldevices.net
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 99
Review by Tim Blythman
Cordless Soldering
Iron & Heatshrink kit
It’s remarkable how far battery technology has come over the years.
More and more devices that previously would have used some other
power source have now become practical to run from battery power.
W
agner Electronics loaned us
their new Cordless Soldering Iron Kit, and we found
it to be a handy item that could well
replace a gas-powered soldering iron.
The Cordless Soldering Iron comes
as a Soldering Iron and Heatshrink kit,
available as Cat SI50HSK from www.
wagneronline.com.au, with a current
RRP of $139.
There are also numerous different
tips available, in addition to those that
come in the kit.
The kit gives you a good set of
mid-level tools, and would make an
excellent portable standby kit. But it
would also be quite adequate as a primary soldering tool.
The Iron itself measures 160mm
long and 28mm in diameter. Roughly
cylindrical, the grip is moulded rubber
and quite comfortable to hold.
The kit includes three interchangeable tips. There is a 30W 4mm conical
tip, a 50W 6mm conical tip and 30W
radiant heatshrink tip. An assortment
of smaller diameter pieces of heatshrink is included.
The kit comes with a protective cap
for the Iron (which fits even with a
tip installed), a USB-A to micro-USB
charging cable and a small punched
metal stand. All the parts are supplied
in a simple plastic case with internal
dividers.
A micro-USB socket at one end of
the tool is used for charging, with a
clearly marked ON-OFF switch at the
other end near the grip.
The switch needs to be slid and a
button held in to turn the Iron on, so
there’s little chance of it being left on
inadvertently, even when resting on
the button. The cap also forces the
switch off when it is fitted – a thoughtful design touch.
There is a small white LED near the
tip which lights up whenever the button is pressed. It doesn’t quite illuminate the tip, so it is not very useful.
You would be in a tough situation
if you had to rely on this light to illuminate your work.
While the Iron’s hot!
With a prototype PCB to be assembled, we dove in to try it out. The
PCB in question measures 123mm x
58mm and hosts nearly all throughhole parts; around 100 joints to solder. We didn’t try the Iron on the surface-mounted parts as the smallest included tip is too large.
We used the smaller 30W tip, and
as specified, the Iron takes about 10
seconds to come up to working temperature and holds the heat quite well.
For most parts, it was sufficient to
simply give the Iron a short burst of
power while applying solder.
Apart from the heat-up time after
leaving the Iron idle, it felt no different to using a regular iron. The large
tip is probably overkill for this sort of
work; there is also a smaller 12W tip
Inside the SI50HSK Iron is a single 2400mAh Li-ion cell which will give up to 45 minutes of continuous use. For normal
(intermittent) soldering use you could expect several hours of operation.
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Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
(Right): this kit includes a storage case, main
heating tool body with two cone-shaped soldering
tips, a heat radiator tip with focusing sleeve
for heatshrink and a micro-USB charging cable
(charger itself is optional). In addition, there
are 200 pieces of 45mm long, red, blue, yellow
and black heatshrink tube in diameters of
2.2mm, 3.5mm, 4.5mm and 7mm.
The SI50HSK can be recharged from an USB outlet with the
USB cord included, but Wagner also offer an optional mains
USB charger if required.
available and a finer 30W tip.
If we were purchasing this kit for
our own use, we would undoubtedly
pick up those two as well.
The shape is well-thought-out. It’s
uniformly cylindrical enough that
whichever way it sits, the tip won’t
touch a flat work surface, while the
moulded grip means that it won’t roll
away. In short, we had no problem
simply putting it down between uses.
In use, the Iron feels well-balanced
and sturdy. We tried the small stand,
and though simple, it was effective.
But we didn’t find it necessary.
The battery life is listed at 45 minutes of continuous operation, so it
could be expected to last for hours
with intermittent use. We certainly
didn’t have any trouble with it going
flat during our testing.
Each tip has a good-sized plastic
collar which allows the tip to be handled, even while hot. The collar is
wide enough that the tip can balance
on it, so there’s no need to worry about
where to rest it.
We also tried the heatshrink tip.
Those readers of a certain age might
be reminded of an item that was once
a feature of most cars; the electric cigarette lighter. The heatshrink tip is
much like one of these, glowing red
when turned on.
The heatshrink tip worked well on
small pieces of heatshrink, but it was
not as quick as something like a hotair gun would be. This tip’s radiant
nature means it’s not quite as easy to
aim and use as a hot-air gun.
We did get that sense of something
smelling a bit burnt, so the heat appears to be quite concentrated too. A
small shroud that fits on the heatshrink
tip is included.
Working with heatshrink is probably where a gas iron would win out,
although the battery Iron is certainly
adequate.
Accessories
A range of fourteen spare tips is
available; they are each around $20.
There are six different soldering tips
(including the two included in the
Iron kit) and tips for cutting plastic,
pyrography (wood-burning) and styrofoam forming. The heatshrink tip is
also available as a spare part.
Wagner Electronics also offers a
suitable AC-USB adapter for charging
purposes.
Verdict
As the kit comes, it is well-suited to
replacing a gas soldering iron. There’s
certainly enough heat and runtime to
handle most of those jobs you would
use a gas iron for. And USB power is
convenient and ubiquitous enough to
allow the Iron to be topped up as needed. It would make a good emergency
standby tool.
It’s handy enough that it could become a replacement for a mains-powered iron if space is at a premium, unless you’re the type who is running the
iron for hours on end.
It does end up being a bit more expensive than similar gas irons, but has
the advantage of being usable where
flames or flammable substances are
prohibited. And you avoid the fiddly
refilling process that gas irons require.
For more information, or to purchase the kit and possibly some extra
tips, go to http://siliconchip.com.au/
link/ab71 (Wagner’s
online shop page for
this product).
SC
In addition to the seven soldering iron tips, Wagner also offer a range of tips for other hobby applications (as shown here).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 101
Vintage Radio
Philips
Philips 1948
1948 table
table model
model 114K
114K
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
The 114K radio is
one set in a series of
similar radios made
by Philips, and was
among the last alloctal radio designs,
due to decreasing
stock in the post
WW2 era. The radio
is otherwise a fairly
standard six valve
superhet, but weighs
in at a hefty 12kg.
For 12 years, this radio sat in my
storage shed because I considered it
an ugly duckling, but events conspired
to change my opinion recently. So I
got it out of storage to see if I could
clean it up.
I purchased this radio in a lot with
other radios which I was more interested in. Recently, a friend who worked
for Philips some time ago told me that
one of his managers used this model
of radio at his house, and took great
pride in having it.
That started me wondering if I had
judged it unreasonably. The COVID-19
lockdown inspired me to look at my
back shelf for a project. Hence, a large
grubby radio entered my restoration
queue, emerging resplendent, and
much elevated in my estimation.
1948 was three years after the end
of the Second World War, and radio
manufacturers were slowly exhausting
stocks of large 8-pin octal valves before
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Silicon Chip
moving to 7-pin and 9-pin miniature
valves. At that time, many radios used
a mixed lineup of octal and miniature
valves to best utilise their inventory.
The model 114K is among the last
of the all-octal radios. It is also among
the last of the multiple timber veneer
cabinets. Through the 1950s, almost
all timber cabinets were simplified to
single veneers (usually stained), and
cabinets were changed to easily fabricated shapes; mostly rectangular.
The model 114K is a heavyweight
table radio at 12.2kg, measuring
560mm wide, 245mm deep and
360mm high. It has an eight-inch Rola
permanent magnet speaker (type 8K)
that produces excellent sound from
the baffle provided by the substantial
cabinet. That sound is also optimised
by circuitry that is consistent with a
premium radio.
The 114K sold for £46/17s/00d,
more than double the price of conAustralia’s electronics magazine
temporary Bakelite kitchen radios,
which were usually in the range of
15-20 pounds (£).
Unusual design
This radio conforms in style to a series of late-1940s Philips radios with
the dial mounted at the top. As the premier model, this dial articulates so it
can be laid flat for moving the radio.
On lesser models, the glass dial was
fixed, although it could be removed
and slotted back in.
The advertising angle to promote
this set was that while others fill the
front with a dial and a small speaker,
Philips builds in a large unobstructed speaker and puts the dial on top.
If you are unconvinced, then you
have good grounds, because this was
not a good idea. One indicator is that
other manufacturers did not follow.
The yellow screen-printed station information is difficult to read without
siliconchip.com.au
Shown here is the underside of the chassis before restoration. The components with green-sleeved leads had already been
replaced by a previous owner.
a black background, and the printing
is easily damaged or eroded while
cleaning.
Exposed at the top of the cabinet,
a large number of those dials were
broken by misadventure. Philips realised the downsides to this design,
and moved their dials to the main face
in the 1950s.
A brief history of Philips
Philips began their rise to become electronic industry leaders after founding a light globe business in
Holland in 1891. A light globe can be
frivolously referred to as a “monode”,
but it did not take Philips long to add
electrodes to the envelope and create
a range of thermionic valves.
The edge that Philips initially enjoyed with their Miniwatt range was
the high emission efficiency they
achieved at lower filament current
than their competitors; a crucial advantage for battery operation. By 1933,
Philips had manufactured 100 million
valves and led the world in quantity
and quality.
Valves with an E prefix (eg, ECH
and EL) follow European designations.
Philips made these valves in Europe
and at Hendon in Adelaide for the
Australian market.
The mixer valve in this radio is an
ECH35, released in Europe in 1939.
The red-painted opaque envelope on
an ECH35 covers a metallic coating
that acts as an RF shield while the primary grid is connected via a top-cap.
The photo of the top of the chassis
shows the uncramped layout of this
large radio; all the components follow
a linear arrangement by function. The
speaker and output transformer connects to the octal socket adjacent to
the power transformer.
Circuit details
The radio tunes two bands, 5301620kHz (medium wave [MW], AM
broadcast band) and 5.9-18.4MHz
(shortwave [SW]). The RF input is
from a conventional external aerial
with L1-2 tuning MW and L3-4 tuning shortwave.
The aerial coil is in the indented can
that is seen at the far left in the rear
view of the chassis (page 106). These
indented cans are an immediate give
away of manufacture by Philips.
C47 (5pF) is included to improve the
aerial transformer’s primary-secondary
coupling towards the top end of the MW
The top view of the chassis shows an empty octal socket next to the power transformer. The output transformer plugs into
this, as does the speaker (for feedback and Earthing).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 103
The Philips ECH35 is
painted red to cover
its metallic coating
which acts as an RF
shield. Mullard also
made these valves.
Source: frank.pocnet.
net/sheetsE1.html
This table (from the service manual) shows what each valve in the set does.
band, so there is a balanced sensitivity
across the MW spectrum.
Band change switch A1 has a third
position to select pick-up from a twohole socket at the rear of the set, while
also disconnecting the radio signal
from the output.
Overall, the circuitry around the
ECH35 mixer valve has no surprises beyond featuring only a two-gang
tuning capacitor in a six-valve radio.
The tuning capacitor is full-sized in
this radio, slightly ahead of the introduction of much smaller brass-plate
capacitors used by Philips through
the 1950s.
The local oscillator (inductors
L6–9) has two sections configured as
Armstrong oscillators to provide the
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Silicon Chip
heterodyne signal that generates the
455kHz intermediate frequency (IF)
difference signal. The local oscillator
coils are housed in an indented can,
identical to the aerial coils, and mounted adjacent to the tuning capacitor and
aerial coils above the chassis.
Instead of featuring an RF preamplifier stage, this radio has two IF amplifier stages that also increase its gain
and selectivity. The IF amplifier stages
cascade two 6K7GT valves; or at least,
these were the types installed at manufacture. GT types have glass envelopes
in a tubular shape (hence “GT”) that
can be fitted with a cheap cylindrical
metal shield.
However, the second IF amplifier
in this radio was a replacement type
Australia's
Australia’s electronics magazine
6K7G (not GT) that has the classic
larger shouldered valve profile. The
original GT type shield had been deformed to shroud the larger valve. It
looks odd, but it works.
The first IF transformer is not a
standard IF transformer, because L11
is connected to the grid of V3 when
switch B1 is set to select “expanded
IF high fidelity”. The effect of L11 is
to broaden the bandwidth passed by
the IF transformer, so higher audio frequencies are less attenuated.
Valve V4 (6SQ7) has two diodes providing negative AGC voltages which
are fed to V1 via R15 (2MW) and to
V2 via R16 (100kW). Splitting the
AGC line in this way is unusual, but
achieves optimum gain control.
siliconchip.com.au
The underside of the chassis after restoration. The rubber insulation on the valve top-cap connectors had to be replaced,
along with several damaged wires. A few resistors and capacitors were also changed, as they were out of tolerance.
The audio signal passes from the
6SQ7 triode through resistor R21 to
switch A1, which then routes it back
to volume control potentiometer R20
(500kW) unless the switch is set to select the external pick-up.
R20 features a fixed tap with additional components to strengthen bass
frequencies. In addition to “high fidelity”, the three-position tone control
switch B1 offers two top-cut positions
using C39 (6nF) or C40 (50nF).
For a top-shelf radio, it is unusual
to see such a simple set of choices for
tone, but the circuitry ensures that
the three options focus on optimising
listening for the broadcast content.
This optimisation includes frequencyfiltered negative feedback from the
speaker (L20, connection #4).
The well-established 6V6 beamtetrode (V5) completes the circuit for
audio amplification. The 6V6 cathode
is connected to the chassis so the grid
bias, specified as -13V, is generated by
R24 (35W) and R26 (150W).
HT power rectifier V6 is a 6X5 with
an indirectly-heated cathode. This radio generates over 300V between the
6X5 cathode and filament. In radios
manufactured earlier than 1948, the
most common valve in this application was a 5Y3 that had a 5V filament
which also served as the cathode. It
took some time to find an efficient
way to isolate a cathode from arcing
to a nearby heating filament.
Radio construction
An odd feature of all the tuned circuits in the IF section is the absence of
tuning slugs in the inductors to align
the set to 455kHz. Fine-tuning is instead achieved by cheap wire-wrapped
stick capacitors that are inconvenient
to work on after leaving the factory.
Not to mention that some are at lethal
high tension. Thankfully, the radio
worked well as received, so I didn’t
need to alter the alignment.
Some Philips models of this era
are notorious for being unstable due
to stray capacitance. The IF stages in
this radio have additional shielding
under the chassis, and I have taken
two under-chassis photos, one with
the shield cover plate removed and
one with it installed.
Restoration – the cabinet
The circuit diagram for
the Philips 114K radio.
The circuit doesn’t
have any component
value labels, so the
parts list scanned
from the AORSM is
reproduced here.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
Restoring a timber cabinet will always take several days for completion,
so it is logical to start on the case and
perform electrical troubleshooting in
parallel.
Developed through the 1920s, the
original finish was nitrocellulose.
This starts with glossy clarity, but
slowly decomposes to produce brown
oxides of nitrogen trapped within
the nitrocellulose matrix. The result is mellow golden hues that are
April 2021 105
This rear chassis shot shows the size of the Rola speaker. The dial lamps were
initially installed with incorrect orientation, this was fixed in the image below.
often valued in vintage musical instruments.
Spraying contemporary polyurethane finishes over nitrocellulose
commonly produces an undesirable
reaction resembling heat blistering.
This is because nitrocellulose and its
degradation products are chemically
related to the polyols that react with
isocyanates to create polyurethane.
The only way to avoid this is to completely remove the nitrocellulose and
start with bare timber before applying
polyurethane.
This radio was re-finished with satin spray-Cabothane purchased at Bunnings. Paint stripper, metal scrapers,
heat guns and abrasives are all possible approaches to removing nitrocellulose. In this case, I used P40 coarse
garnet paper.
I have found the coarse grit resists
fouling with the abraded material, so
it is reasonably economical with the
consumables. However, the use of P40
abrasive does require care to stop penetrating the veneer and exposing the
base ply below.
The top side of the chassis with the valves seated and dial lamps placed in
their correct locations. There are a few radios in the 114 series
from Philips; most of the differences are minor
circuit and cabinet alterations.
106
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Another requisite is to work only
with the timber grain and not cut
across it. Although the timber surface is left somewhat rough after P40
abrasives, there is no need to sand
with finer grades because that is best
done after stabilising the surface with
two coats of polyurethane. I use P400
silica abrasive to sand back between
finishing coats (three finishing coats
in this restoration).
Another part of this restoration was
restringing the broken tuning system.
It turned out to be less intuitive than
it looked, and the photo of the front of
the chassis shows the result.
That photo also shows two dial
globes that were installed to replace
the blown original globes. At first I
believed that the original globes were
captive in the Bakelite mouldings
at the side of the dial, however they
are behind clip-on covers that can be
prised off by a small blade inserted
into the joint.
A reproduction dial was purchased
to complete the cabinet. The original dial with partly erased printing is
shown in the photograph to the left.
Restoration – electrical
The rubber insulation on the valve
top-cap connectors was badly perished, as were several links below
the chassis.
After replacing this wiring, it was
time to check the transformer without valves installed. At switch-on, the
transformer dissipated 20W, rising rapidly to 200W. Fortunately, a replacement transformer was at hand.
Some components sleeved with
green tubing had been previously replaced. After replacing some additional out-of-tolerance resistors and some
dubious capacitors, switch-on was disappointing – it did nothing.
The radio was only consuming 20W,
and the HT from the 6X5 rectifier was
a mere 145V. A replacement 6X5 was
the answer to bring the HT rail up to
the expected value.
A signal injected to the 6V6 output grid produced audio, but nothing when a signal was applied to the
grid of the 6SQ7. The 6SQ7 had an
open-circuit filament; replacing it led
to a functioning radio, drawing 41W.
This proved to be a satisfying project in all aspects of the restoration. A
bonus, by analogy to George Orwell’s
novel 1984, was that I came to love
Big Brother.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Battery Balancer Mosfet
inverter/driver query
I would like to raise a potential
problem with the use of the N- &
P-channel Mosfets in the QS6M4
device as a complementary pair
in the design of the High-Current
Four Battery/Cell Balancer (March
& April 2021; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/358).
They are connected back-to-back
across the 3.3V supply, so the only
resistance in the circuit is the devices themselves. The N-channel
gate threshold is 0.5-1.5V, while the
P-channel is -0.7 to -2V. So potentially, from 0.5V to 2.6V (3.3V − 0.7V),
both transistors are on.
At -1.5V, the P-channel RDS(on) is
0.155W, and at 1.5V, the N-channel
RDS(on) is 0.17W. So, if you simplistically apply V = IR, you get I = 10.15A
= 3.3V ÷ (0.155W + 0.17W). The maximum pulsed drain current for both
devices is 6A.
You limited the surge current
through Q11a/b into Q10 with a 1W
resistor. I’m wondering if the complimentary pair should have similar
protection, even though the ‘both on’
time is short. Could it shorten the life
of the QS6M4 otherwise? (D. H., St.
Ives, NSW)
• Duraid responds: I spent considerable time validating the use of these
Mosfet pairs during the design phase.
Shoot-through currents in a CMOS
inverter are a concern, especially at
higher temperatures where the gatesource on-thresholds start creeping
down.
The 0.155W/0.17W resistance values
quoted are for devices that are well
and truly on. Resistances around the
1.65 (Vdd ÷ 2) point are nearly an order of magnitude higher, especially for
the PMOS section. Keep in mind that
the gate threshold voltages quoted are
typically for channel current flows of
around 1mA, not the many amps that
the devices are capable of with higher
gate-source voltages.
At these low gate voltages, it’s thersiliconchip.com.au
mal degradation that you need to be
careful to avoid. These parts claim to
be able to tolerate 1W, so long as thermal limits are observed. During the
design phase, I ran some simulations
which showed an order-of-magnitude
headroom to this limit, and significant
thermal headroom, even allowing for
the fact that these parts are quite near
the inductors/power FETs.
So to summarise, you do have to be
careful using Mosfet pairs as inverters like this, but we have verified that
these particular parts are suitable in
this configuration.
Sourcing LM5163 for
Battery Multi Logger
The LM5163DDAR buck converter (regulator) IC used in the Battery
Multi-Logger seems to be in short
supply. Digi-Key and Mouser are both
quoting a seven month lead time. Do
you know of an alternate supplier or
device? (R. M., Paynesville, Vic)
• You can use the automotive version, which is identical to the part we
specified, just a bit more expensive:
LM5163QDDARQ1 or LM5163HQDDARQ1. It is in stock at both Digi-Key
and Mouser.
Reed relays are
underrated for 1A PSU
I am reading my way through the
February 2021 issue of Silicon Chip. I
have a couple of comments about the
article on the Arduino-based Adjustable Power Supply, starting on page
38 (siliconchip.com.au/Series/357).
There is no back-EMF diode across
the coil of the reed relay. Surely one
is required to prevent damage to the
Arduino pin.
Also, both the Altronics and the Jaycar reed relays have a contact rating of
0.5A. So rating the power supply at 1A
and expecting the relay to make and
break that current is not a good idea.
My experience is that reed relays will
tend to stick closed if overloaded.
I note Jaycar do sell a reed relay with
Australia’s electronics magazine
1A rated contacts, Cat SY4036. Altronics don’t seem to have any 1A-rated
reed relays.
Finally, I am looking forward to
reading the article on the computer
upgrade. It is good to have this as I
am interested in learning of the potential ‘snags’ when doing so. (D. W.,
Hornsby, NSW)
• Regarding the relay coil, since the
Arduino pin is pulled to ground and effectively shorts the coil terminals when
switching it off, there is no opportunity
for a high-voltage spike as would occur
if the circuit were simply opened. The
circulating current decays via the driving pin, so it never goes above the coil
operating current. We have never seen
this sort of arrangement fail.
It’s when you have an open-collector
or open-drain relay coil driving arrangement that the back-EMF quenching diode is needed.
You are probably right about the
Jaycar/Altronics relays being slightly
underrated for this project. We have
used similar relays in the past rated
to break 1A, but as you point out, the
ones we specified are only rated to carry 1A. Fortunately, these relays have a
quite high (100V) voltage limit, and the
current limit can be set in the PSU to
provide an extra degree of protection.
Oddly, the Altronics Cat S4100 &
Cat S4101A relays have a rated switching current of 1A but are described as
“0.5A 5VDC SPST DIP PCB Mount
Reed Relay”. We aren’t sure if that is
a mistake, or if they can actually break
a higher current than they are rated to
carry continuously.
Panel meters fail when
used with inverters
After reading Jim Rowe’s review of
mains panel meters (December 2020;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/14678), I
bought a PZEM-051 panel meter to fit
to a portable power supply. This consists of two deep-cycle AGM batteries wired in series with provision to
connect up to three 24V DC to 230V
AC inverters. Two of the inverters are
April 2021 107
modified square wave types, while one
is a pure sinewave type.
The panel meter immediately failed.
After checking the wiring carefully,
I removed the back and checked for
signs of faulty components. Q1 (a 600V
Mosfet) looked stressed. Tiny globules
of solder were stuck to the Mosfet and
the adjacent PCB. When power was
again applied, the Mosfet became too
hot to touch within seconds.
I contacted the supplier, who eventually advised that the meter was not
designed for use with inverters, although there was no information about
this in the supplied instructions.
Is it possible to fit a transient voltage
suppressor across the 24V power supply to a new meter to prevent another
failure? The Jaycar Cat ZR1152 TVS
looks good. I might have to fit two in
series to prevent premature tripping,
though. Any suggestions you can provide will be much appreciated. (I. M.
P., Fullarton, SA)
• The waveform from an inverter, especially a modified square wave type,
has much greater harmonic content
than a normal mains waveform, so we
are not surprised that this could damage a low-cost panel meter.
Adding a TVS across the DC side of
the inverter probably won’t help, as
it is likely the spikes and steps in the
‘230V AC’ waveform that are causing
the damage. You would need to filter
that waveform before feeding it to the
panel meter(s).
However, finding a filter that will
remove enough harmonic content to
keep the panel meters safe, without
damaging the filter itself, might not
be easy. We suggest that you try using
this Jaycar EMI filter (Cat MS4001) between each inverter’s output and the
panel meters/outputs.
How much to build the
USB SuperCodec
Can you give me an approximate
costing for parts to build the USB
SuperCodec (August-October 2020;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/349)? (R.
P., Tea Gardens, NSW)
• Phil Prosser added up what he paid
for all the parts to build the prototype,
and came up with a figure of $439.28,
including the power supply and case,
but not including the PCB, for which
we charge $12.50 plus delivery costs.
Not bad, we think, considering the resulting performance.
108
Silicon Chip
High Power Ultrasonic
Cleaner not working
I have built the High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner (September & October
2020; siliconchip.com.au/Series/350),
but I am having trouble getting it to
work correctly. After setting it up, I
switched on the unit and checked the
5V volt supply at IC1 and IC2. I got a
reading of 5.04V.
I then filled the bath with 3.5L of water, switched it on and tried to calibrate
it. The 25% and 50% LEDs gave a brief
flash, then the run LED lit up, but the
unit would only run at 10% power. I
checked the connections to the transducer; they all appear OK. I initiated
the diagnostic mode and could only
get a maximum reading of 2V at TP1.
I rewound the transformer, adding
an extra layer of 28 turns. This time,
when calibrating, the 25% LED stays
on, and the 50% LED pulses every
two seconds. After approximately two
minutes, the run LED lights up, but it
will only operate at 25% power.
In diagnostic mode, I now get a maximum reading of 4.8V, at which time
the unit goes into current overload.
I tried altering the quantity of water
in the bath, to no effect. I removed ten
turns/windings from the transformer.
This dropped the maximum voltage
reading on TP1 to 3.7V, but made no
change to the calibration or running
of the unit. Do you have any ideas? (P.
H., Mosgiel, New Zealand)
• It sounds like the transducer resonance point is not being found. Try
running the diagnostics and sweeping
the frequencies manually to find the
maximum current by measuring the
voltage at TP1. If this voltage goes over
the 4.8V maximum, reduce the number
of secondary turns on the transformer.
The number of turns needs to
be such that the current limit isn’t
reached at resonance. This is the only
way to find the transducer resonance
frequency correctly.
Then the cleaner should then run
correctly, and you can achieve the ultimate power by altering the transformer
secondary windings, which should be
within a few turns of the ideal number once you are reaching resonance
without overloading it.
Tapped transformers
with 45V Bench Supply
I have just ordered the parts and PCB
Australia’s electronics magazine
to build your 45V 8A Linear Bench
Supply (October-December 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/339). The
circuit design looks good to me, but
I’d like to make a few modifications
to reduce heat dissipation for my use.
I built a number of the older ETI-163
supplies many years ago. That design
used multiple winding on the transformer, switching them in series as the
rotary potentiometer was rotated on
the front panel. Is there a reason why
you didn’t use a similar approach for
your supply?
I designed my own version using
three separate 14V 10A transformers
switched to series or parallel combinations. I chose 14V as those combinations are a few volts above the most
commonly used voltages for my industry, 13.8V and 28.8V.
I used a simple op-amp voltage divider to switch the windings based
on the ‘selected’ voltage on the
front-mounted voltage pot. My voltage/current regulation was based on
the old ETI-163 power supply.
At 13.8V DC output, the transistors
were only dropping 5.9V, so at higher
currents, the heat dissipated was minimal (60W at 10A or 120W at 20A).
This also has the advantage of lowering
the output impedance of the ‘source’
as there are two windings in parallel
(great for high current loads).
At 28.8V DC output, two of the transformers are connected in series, with
one unused. Past 32V, all three windings are in series, giving up to 60V <at>
10A before the series pass transistors.
Using eight MJE15003 transistors on
two large heatsinks with 2 x 80mm
fans, the heat was spread out quite
well, and I have never encountered
any overheating problems.
However, at 16V DC, the heat output is quite significant at 235W with
a load drawing 10A.
I also had a 0.5A/10A range select
switch, which switches a different
shunt in the negative line to allow fine
current limit control at lower currents.
Metering was analog like the ETI-163
as they are fast and easy to read at-aglance, especially the current meter.
I’ll probably add this feature to the
new supply, maybe with three current
ranges: 0-500mA, 0-1A and 0-10A. (B.
N., Marine Terrace, WA)
• We did consider using a multi-tap/
series/parallel transformer configuration while designing the 45V PSU,
but we couldn’t find any suitable offsiliconchip.com.au
the-shelf transformers at reasonable
prices. We didn’t want to use multiple
transformers as that would result in a
much bigger, heavier unit.
The switchable shunt idea is interesting, although you’d have to have
your wits about you to know what
range you were using at any given time.
Also, the switch resistance could introduce some inaccuracies, and possibly
unreliability long-term.
have not tested it with Python 3.
The error “ImportError: No module
named ‘urllib2’” confirms this, as per
the following StackOverflow question:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab76
If you want to push ahead and try
to make it work with Python 3, the advice on that web page is a good start.
Tide Chart Python
version mismatch
A colleague (who does not read your
magazine; shame on him!) has an appliance where the backlight has failed
on the LCD panel.
Am I correct in assuming that the
light is integral to the panel, and hence
cannot be replaced? I suppose that
by squinting at the panel, or perhaps
by shining a bright light upon it, the
segments could be discerned. (D. H.,
North Gosford, NSW)
• It depends on the LCD panel. You
I am trying to get the code for your
Raspberry Pi Tide Chart (July 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11142)
running, but I am getting an error
“ImportError: No module named
‘urllib2’”. (P. C., Balgal Beach, Qld)
• We suspect that you are trying to
make the Tide Chart work with Python
3. It was written for Python 2, and we
How to fix failed
LCD backlight
can experiment by applying light to
the panel using a small torch. There
might be a way to provide backlighting by feeding light in from the panel’s side or back.
Front-lit LCD panels are harder to
control for lighting, but you may get
sufficient display brightness with front
lighting. The display contrast is usually poor with front lighting.
We occasionally publish entries in
Serviceman’s Log where contributors
have successfully replaced the backlighting on various LCD screens. You
really have to open it up to see whether it is possible for that particular display (unless you can find information
about that aspect of it online).
Ferrite bead selection
for amplifier
The Ultra-LD Mk.4 200W RMS
Power Amplifier (August-October
How is negative feedback affected by phase shift?
When feedback is being discussed,
the effect of phase shift on a feedback loop is usually considered, but
always in the most extreme situation
where the phase shift is large enough
to set up positive feedback and drive
the circuit into oscillation.
But surely, any phase shift should
have a detrimental effect on feedback since phase shift is caused by
a time delay in the feedback circuit.
That in turn means that the circuit is
feeding back an error to a different
part of the signal; in effect, trying
to correct an error that has already
happened and the source signal has
moved on.
And yet, the vanishingly low distortions being measured in some
high-end amplifier circuits, like
those published in Silicon Chip,
suggest that this is not happening.
Can someone explain why feeding
back a delayed signal is not a problem for a feedback circuit? (P. T.,
Casula, NSW)
• Yes, phase shift has a detrimental
effect on negative feedback used for
distortion reduction or accurate gain
setting. It’s worse at higher frequencies as the circuit will typically have
a fixed feedback delay, representing
a larger phase shift relative to higher frequency signals. This is largely
siliconchip.com.au
why audio amplifiers usually have
rising distortion with frequency, typically evident above 1kHz.
Therefore, audio amplifiers usually are designed to operate just on the
edge of stability, with the minimum
possible delay, pushing this point
of rising distortion above 20kHz
where it is not audible (and the amplifier will generally be designed
not to reproduce signals above this
frequency).
Consider that the open-loop bandwidth of an audio amplifier will typically be in the megahertz, yet it is
only tasked at reproducing frequencies (in closed-loop mode) up to
20kHz. So if the phase shift is, say,
90° at 2MHz, that equates to a feedback delay of 125ns (90° ÷ 2MHz ÷
360°). For a 20kHz signal, that’s a
phase shift of 0.9° (360° × 125ns ×
20kHz).
Therefore, the negative feedback
is still more than 99% effective, reducing the open-loop distortion by
more than 40dB. As long as the design is fairly linear (ie, open-loop
distortion is not gross), this is usually enough to give a very low distortion figure even at 20kHz.
If you look at the evolution of our
amplifiers, 20 years ago, we were
achieving figures of <0.001% <at>
Australia’s electronics magazine
1kHz, but significantly higher (say,
between 0.01% and 0.1%) at 20kHz.
These days, the open-loop bandwidth has been raised, making feedback more effective; open-loop linearity is better, and other factors
have been improved to the point that
we are achieving close to 0.0001%
<at> 1kHz and still well under 0.001%
<at> 20kHz, leaving little room for further improvement.
So you are right, the phase shift in
a negative feedback circuit is undesirable, but luckily, it can be kept to a
low level where it is not bothersome.
In circuits like low-pass and highpass filters that inherently have a
phase shift within the audio frequency band, the linearity of the change
in phase with frequency is usually
excellent. We make sure that it is by
using all linear components in the
RC networks, and so it does not introduce harmonic distortion.
It does introduce a frequencydependent phase shift, but in theory, for normal ‘listening’ conditions, this is inaudible. It can cause
problems in certain scenarios like
interactions between drivers in
multi-drive loudspeaker systems,
in which case, the crossover circuit
design can be critical in achieving
good results.
April 2021 109
2015; siliconchip.com.au/Series/289)
uses an SMD ferrite bead. What value of inductance/resistance should it
have? There are many to choose from
at Digi-Key. (I. G., Oak Flats, NSW)
• The ferrite bead type is not critical.
Ferrite beads don’t have any significant inductance or resistance. They
are usually specified with an impedance in ohms at 100MHz.
The cheapest from Digi-Key in the
M3216/1206 package are rated at either 600W or 1kW at 100MHz, and either would be fine. For example, the
Bourns MH3261-601Y or Eaton MFBM1V3216-102-R.
Component damage in
CLASSiC DAC?
I have finished building your CLASSiC DAC from the February-May 2013
issues (siliconchip.com.au/Series/63).
I went through the testing procedure,
and everything was fine in regards to
the power supply until I bridged LK1
and LK2.
The DAC chip heated up rapidly, so
I inspected the board and found I had
accidentally fitted TOSLINK transmitters and not receivers.
I have since replaced them with the
correct receivers and carried out the
setup procedure again. But I still have
the same problem with the CS4398
DAC chip rapidly heating.
Upon further investigation, I found
that when the JP1 link is set for 3.3V,
the unit will continuously scan the
four sampling rate LEDs and not detect
any channels, and there is no audio
output. The DAC chip does not get hot.
When JP1 is connected to 5V, the
unit does select channels and detects
the sampling rate, but that is when the
DAC chip gets very hot in a matter of
seconds. There is audio output, but it
is very noisy.
I have also tried with JP1 out and the
unit powers on fine, selects all channels and audio from USB and SD card
can be played back, but there is a lot
of noise through both the headphone
and line outputs. However, the noise
is not as bad as when 5V is selected.
Could it be that having the wrong
TOSLINK transmitters/receiver fitted
has damaged the CS8416 receiver chip
and introducing the noise to rest of
the circuit? I would love to hear your
thoughts before I purchase a new chip.
(J. R., Warrane, Tas)
• We can’t see an obvious way that fit110
Silicon Chip
ting TOSLINK transmitters instead of
receivers would damage anything. We
wonder if you have another problem
and the TOSLINK transmitter error is
just a coincidence. Do make sure that
the TOSLINK receivers you have fitted
are the right type, though.
The only thing that jumper JP1 controls is the voltage fed to Q13b, which
then goes to the TOSLINK receivers
and nowhere else. Their outputs are
AC-coupled to the CS8416, so it should
not be possible for the wrong voltage
to be fed back. We suspect you have a
short circuit from some point on this
rail to something that feeds to the DAC,
such as the +3.3V rail.
This short could be between the pins
of JP1, or perhaps between some pins
of Q13. It could be elsewhere, but we
can’t see any other obvious locations.
We suggest removing the jumper
from JP1 and check for continuity between the middle pin and both of the
outer pins. If you find continuity then
something is wrong. Do the same for
the pins of Q13, keeping in mind that
pins 5 & 6 and pins 7 & 8 are intentionally connected together.
If that still doesn’t help, check the
board carefully for short circuits, especially between IC pins.
Modifying the IMSC to
run from 115V AC
I purchased a couple of kits for your
Induction Motor Speed Controller
(April & May 2012; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/25) way back when, and am
now getting around to building them.
With only a couple of minor mistakes,
it has gone well.
I was reading through your articles
describing the design and function,
and I have a couple of questions/requests. Most of this has to do with
the fact that I live in the USA, and our
mains power is 120V AC (240V AC for
large appliances).
I don’t want to have to use 240V AC
for all my motor applications. What is
the low-voltage cutoff? Is this a software feature that could be modified?
I’d like to have the speed settings
ratio be based on what we have for
power here. That means a 60Hz default ramp up and a 90Hz top speed.
I think that could also be changed in
the software quite easily.
Would you be willing to share the
source code? I imagine I’m not the only
one that would like to make a couple
Australia’s electronics magazine
of tweaks. GitHub and a public license
to protect you and/or keep people from
profiting from your work. (A. D., Columbia Heights, Minnesota USA)
• You would need to change transformers T1 and T2 to run the IMSC
from 110-120V AC as they would not
produce a high enough output voltage
otherwise.
A possible alternative to changing
these transformers would be to use the
specified transformers, but change how
they are wired to the diode bridges. T1’s
configuration would need to change
from a bridge rectifier to a full-wave
voltage doubler, and T2 would need
to be rewired to have its secondaries
in series rather than in parallel.
The under-voltage lock-out can’t be
changed in software. If you modify T1/
T2 to produce the correct +15V HOT
and 7V rail voltages with a ~115V AC
input as described above, the circuit
should operate normally. You couldn’t
connect it to a 220-240V AC source after those modifications, though.
The 0.5-75Hz range was chosen to
include 60Hz as an option. The latest software gives a way to increase
the maximum speed to 100Hz, which
should be more than enough.
We haven’t made the source code
to this project freely available upon
the designer’s request, because modifying it could be very dangerous. The
IMSC is not something that inexperienced people should fiddle with, and
we believe that giving away the source
code would encourage that.
Dual Power Supply
wanted
Has Silicon Chip ever designed a
simple variable dual power supply?
(R. M., Melville, WA)
• Yes, we have published a few; the
latest was the Dual Tracking Supply
(June & July 2010; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/8). We have PCBs available for
that project, and there is an Altronics
kit (Cat K3218). If building that, please
check our Notes & Errata page as there
were some errata published for it.
Other similar supplies published
include:
• Easy-to-Build Bench Power Supply (April 2002; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/4083)
• Beginner’s Dual Rail Variable Power Supply (October 1994; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/5220)
continued on page 112
siliconchip.com.au
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
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infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
April 2021 111
• Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply (April 1990; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/7258)
• Dual Tracking ±18.5V Power Supply (January 1988; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/7828)
the Jaycar Cat SY4080 (3A rated) and
SY4084 (40A rated). These would
need to be wired up and housed in an
Earthed metal enclosure and wired according to the Australian wiring standards for mains equipment.
Reducing switch wear
from arcing
Direct Injection Box
query
I have a computer (Apple Mac), a
printer (Brother) and several other
small items plugged into a powerboard
fitted with a switch.
After I have finished using the computer, I shut it down, wait until all
the screen displays have switched
off, then turn all the power off via the
switch on the powerboard.
Occasionally, there is a ‘blat’ sound
that comes from the switch. I assume
that this is a spark. I have had to replace the switch several times over
the years, as the contact points in the
switch have become stuck or welded
together. Is there any way to reduce
or eliminate this sparking? (G. H., via
email)
• One method to reduce switch contact wear due to arcing is to place an
X2-rated 10nF 250V AC capacitor
across the switch contacts (eg, Jaycar
Cat RG5230).
This will reduce the transient voltage across the switch contacts as they
open. Adding the capacitor leaves a
residual current flow that bypasses the
open switch (around 8mA).
Higher value capacitors can be used,
and might suppress the sparking more
effectively, but with a higher residual current.
Another method is to switch the
mains supply using an electronic switch such as a Triac. There are
electronic relays that do this, such as
Some years back, you presented an
active direct injection box for guitars
to plug into a PA system. The design
included a low-cost transformer from
Altronics or Jaycar and a JFET front
end powered via the audio mixer
phantom power supply.
We built several of these for our local church and need to make more.
While you can buy a commercial unit
for around $100, I recall that these DI
boxes were very cost-effective; certainly a lot less than $100.
I can’t remember whether it was
EA or Silicon Chip magazine. The DI
boxes we constructed have proven to
be very robust and deliver excellent
sound quality. Can you advise when
that project was published? (N. A.,
Canberra, ACT)
• The DI Box design you are after
is probably the one from Electronics Australia, February 1998 (97di12:
“Direct Injection [active] Preamp using a JFET” ). You can order a scan of
that article via www.siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/15
Alternatively, Silicon Chip has published passive and active DI Boxes.
Our passive version (October 2014;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/8034)
uses a high-quality transformer from
Altronics, while the Active DI Box
(August 2001; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/4158) does not use a transformer.
SC
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................83-86
Ampec Technologies................. 49
Analog Devices........................... 7
Control Devices Australia............ 9
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona Instruments................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................. 5
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEDsales................................. 111
Microchip Technology...... 13, OBC
Ocean Controls........................... 6
SC Colour Maximite 2............... 75
Silicon Chip Binders............... 111
Silicon Chip Shop.............. 87, 98
Silicon Chip SiDRADIO............ 19
Switchmode Power Supplies..... 12
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 10
Tronixlabs................................ 111
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wagner Electronics................... 47
Weller Soldering Iron................. 11
Notes & Errata
High-Current Battery Balancer, March 2021: in the parts list on p27, several Mosfets (Q11,Q12…) are listed as “S6M4” types.
The correct type code is QS6M4.
Arduino-based Adjustable Power Supply, February 2021: while the specified SY4030 relay from Jaycar is rated to carry 1A,
it only has a 500mA switch rating. The similar S4100 relay from Altronics specifies a 1A switching current. Power supplies built
using the Jaycar part should set the current limit no higher than 500mA to avoid damage to the relay. Other similar relays are
available with a 1A contact rating; it appears that this refers to the carry current only, and not the switching current, so check
the data sheet if substituting a different part.
LED Party Strobe Mk2, August 2015: the link at lower-left should be positioned as shown in the photo on p87, not the overlay
diagram (Fig.2) on p86, which incorrectly has it shown in the “MAX” position.
The May 2021 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, April 29th. Expect postal delivery of subscription
copies in Australia between April 27th and May 12th.
112
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Product!
RIGOL DP-832
RIGOL DSA Series
RIGOL RSA Series
4Triple Output 30V/3A & 5V/3A
4Large 3.5 inch TFT Display
4USB Device, USB Host, LAN & RS232
4500MHz to 7.5GHz
4RBW settable down to 10 Hz
4Optional Tracking Generator
41.5GHz to 6.5GHz
4Modes: Real Time, Swept, VSA & EMI
4Optional Tracking Generator
ONLY $
749
FROM $
ex GST
1,321
FROM $
ex GST
3,210
ex GST
Buy on-line at www.emona.com.au/rigol
Sydney
Tel 02 9519 3933
Fax 02 9550 1378
Melbourne
Tel 03 9889 0427
Fax 03 9889 0715
email testinst<at>emona.com.au
Brisbane
Tel 07 3392 7170
Fax 07 3848 9046
Adelaide
Tel 08 8363 5733
Fax 08 83635799
Perth
Tel 08 9361 4200
Fax 08 9361 4300
web www.emona.com.au
EMONA
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