This is only a preview of the September 2021 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 43 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Touchscreen Digital Preamp with Tone Control – Part 1":
Items relevant to "Second Generation Colour Maximite 2 – Part 2":
Items relevant to "Tapped Horn Subwoofer":
Items relevant to "Micromite to a Smartphone via Bluetooth":
Items relevant to "Sanyo 8-P2 TV (1962)":
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SEPTEMBER 2021
ISSN 1030-2662
09
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Contents
Vol.34, No.9
September 2021
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
14 Advanced Imaging – Part 2
Imaging technologies aren’t just used for medical purposes; they can also
be used in airports for X-ray inspections, reconstructing ancient or damaged
objects via a CT scan and more – by Dr David Maddison
27 The Cromemco Dazzler
The Dazzler board by Cromemco could be considered one of the first
‘reasonable’ computer graphics devices capable of producing a colour image. It
generates an NTSC signal which can be fed to a TV – by Dr Hugo Holden
48 Review: IOT Cricket WiFi Module
The IOT Cricket is a small, low-power WiFi module by Things On Edge. It
incorporates an ESP8266 and could potentially be powered for years(!) from a
pair of AA cells – by Tim Blythman
86 Review: the tinySA Spectrum Analyser
For just $80, this spectrum analyser works over 0.1MHz-350MHz and 240960MHz ranges with selectable resolution bandwidth. It has a colour display and
separate signal generator mode – by Allan Linton-Smith
The Cromemco Dazzler was the
first colour graphics card for
the S-100 bus computer. It was
released in 1976, and came as two
separate S-100 boards which had a
total of 72 ICs – Page 27
Constructional Projects
38 Touchscreen Digital Preamp with Tone Control – Part 1
This preamp has four external stereo inputs plus two stereo outputs. It uses a
colour touchscreen and has IR remote control functionality. Bass, mid and treble
presets are provided, plus volume control – by Nicholas Vinen & Tim Blythman
61 Second Generation Colour Maximite 2 – Part 2
Finishing off our shiny new 2nd Gen Colour Maximite 2, we cover construction
details and running your first program – by Geoff Graham & Peter Mather
66 Tapped Horn Subwoofer
Using just a single 8-inch driver, this subwoofer’s response extends below 30Hz
and can deliver over 100dB SPL (sound pressure level) – by Phil Prosser
82 Micromite to a Smartphone via Bluetooth
Even a Micromite can be used as the heart of an Internet of Things (IoT) project!
Building this simple project on a breadboard provides you with an easy way to
control a Micromite using your Android smartphone – by Tom Hartley
Your Favourite Columns
Our new Digital
Preamp uses
a classical
Baxandall style
volume and tone
control circuitry
to achieve the low noise and
distortion expected of an analog
design. It can be controlled via a
colour touchscreen or an infrared
remote – Page 38
The IOT Cricket
is a tiny, ultra
low-power
ESP8266-based
WiFi module –
Page 48
75 Serviceman’s Log
‘Playing’ with fire – by Dave Thompson
90 Circuit Notebook
(1) Multiple RAM banks for the IR Remote Control Assistant
(2) Solar garden light using a supercap (3) 1-2-5 switching arrangments
(4) Simple tripwire alarm
(5) Letterbox counter
96 Vintage Radio
Sanyo 8-P2 TV (1962) – by Dr Hugo Holden
Everything Else
2
4
94
106
Editorial Viewpoint
Mailbag – Your Feedback
Silicon Chip Online Shop
Product Showcase
107
111
112
112
Ask Silicon Chip
Market Centre
Notes and Errata
Advertising Index
This Tapped Horn Subwoofer is
built into a modestly-sized cabinet
which measures 50 x 90cm with
a width of 28.2cm. You don’t need
much more than a hand-held
circular saw, drill and clamps to
assemble it – Page 66
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc.
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Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc.
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Technical Contributor
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Reader Services
Rhonda Blythman, BSc, LLB, GDLP
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Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
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David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
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Editorial Viewpoint
Upcoming price changes
As discussed previously in the magazine, the Silicon
Chip cover and subscription prices have not changed
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we charge as long as possible, despite most issues of
Silicon Chip now having 112 pages rather than 96 or
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To keep up with inflation, the magazine cover price
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(October). The New Zealand cover price will not
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These changes should mean that we can afford to stay in business for a
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ElectroneX 2021 delayed
The ElectroneX 2021 trade show and associated SMCBA conference has
been pushed back to the 10th & 11th of November – see the ad on p7 for
more details.
by Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 3
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd had the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Video of Harold S. Black
Since you published my article on Harold S. Black (the
inventor of negative feedback) in the August 2021 issue,
I came across an excellent documentary on his invention on YouTube, which you can view at https://youtu.
be/iFrxyJAtJ7U
This video has Harold Black himself describing his
discovery of the negative feedback amplifier while on a
ferry going to work.
Roderick Wall, Mount Eliza, Vic.
It seemed like a good idea at the time
I have a coffee table made on a 1960s Yamaha “Elephant
Ear” 33 x 24in (85 x 60cm) speaker frame. The speakers
were reviewed in Electronics Australia, April 1969. Electronics is littered with hundreds of ‘good ideas’ from the
last hundred years. Most disappeared quickly, but a few
survived, while others reemerged years later when technology caught up to the idea.
In science and technology, often the ‘good idea’ is
years ahead of the means to implement it. Two examples
are mechanical fuel injection for cars in the 1970s and
early “portable” computers. Some great ideas are washed
away by the competition through no fault of their own.
Cassette tapes were inferior to open-reel and eight-track
tapes, but Dolby and the Walkman turned them into a
brilliant success.
In the late sixties, Yamaha, who made quality musical
instruments, including audio equipment such as amps,
speakers and electronic organs, made these enormous
speakers for some organs. The “good idea” was that being
4
Silicon Chip
asymmetrical, it would have less resonance and gain
some of the audio ‘personality’ of grand pianos that are
a similar shape.
The accompanying extract from EA shows a speaker in
one such organ. The article reviewed two smaller “Natural Sound” Yamaha ear-shaped speakers at ‘just’ 17 x
13 inches (43 x 33cm). The reviewer was sceptical of the
concept of a speaker adding to the sound, rather than just
reproducing it, almost in defiance of the path taken by
other top speaker manufacturers.
My elephant ear speaker is from a thrown-away electronic organ and, with long leg bolts, makes a fantastic
coffee table. The matching curved glass top reinforces
the ear shape. The frame is cast aluminium, and the diaphragm is heavy moulded styrofoam with deep reinforcing
ribs. I have not assessed the sound quality; I don’t think
it would fare well against my JBL 250Tis.
The Yamaha engineers obviously thought that the earshaped “Natural Sound” speakers were a good idea at the
time; unfortunately, history does not agree.
Dave Dobeson, Berowra Heights, NSW.
Motorised pots can be finicky
I read with interest the correspondence from D.M.C.,
regarding shunt resistor values to use for audio pots in the
June 2021 issue (pages 109 & 110). I also built the Ultra
Low Noise Remote Controlled Stereo Preamplifier (MarchApril 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/333) and mounted
this, plus the 6-input selector board, in a 3RU rack case.
Like D. M. C., I felt that the bass and treble control knobs
are mounted too close together, and as such, I took them
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
off the board, together with the volume control, mounting them with more aesthetically pleasing spacing on the
3RU front panel.
During testing, I had very similar experiences with the
5kW motorised volume control potentiometer and actually had to ask for replacement pots around August 2020.
They all worked correctly for about one week, then the
volume control of the left-hand channel started to become
unreliable. The sound was still OK, but the volume could
not be controlled. There was no problem with the right
channel, where the volume control still worked.
I tracked the fault to an open-circuit connection on the
pot. Upon replacing it, it worked correctly for about five
days, then gave the same fault, only this time on the right
channel. This happened with several pots until I came
across a good one. It seems to me that there was a manufacturing fault with these motorised pots.
Since then, it all has worked very well, except for the
intermittent problem with the six-channel input selector
randomly changing channels. This was fixed by revised
firmware that was supplied to me by John Clarke.
By the way, I also built the SC200 Amplifier (January &
February 2017; siliconchip.com.au/Series/308) and combined them with speakers I built from a kit.
They really sound excellent and work very well on
the SC200 power amp, and were fun to build. The sound
quality is great, with lots of volume and deep, full bass
and very clear vocals.
Allan Metcalf, Alexandra Hills, Qld.
Nicholas responds: I built an Ultra-LD Mk1 amplifier from
an Altronics kit some years ago, and it came with a motorised pot for the remote control.
My young kids frequently abuse that pot but surprisingly, it still works fine. So they can be reliable; as you
say, there must have been a poorly manufactured batch
of the 5kW dual gang log motorised pots we specified for
the later preamp.
Still, mechanical devices can fail; even non-motorised
pots can wear out and go scratchy. Our new Digital Remote
Controlled Preamp, starting on page 38 of this issue, is
an excellent way to avoid those problems.
SILICON CHIP magazines to give away
I have around 250 issues of Silicon Chip (including the
complete set 2003 onwards but starting from 1988) that
I would like to give away rather than dump them in the
recycling. I also have around 200 issues of EA that I want
to dispose of similarly (note: e-mail silicon<at>siliconchip.
com.au if you are interested).
Mark Patterson, Northern Beaches, NSW.
Also sick of so many updates
I can only whole-heartedly agree with the Editorial
Viewpoint on software updates in the July 2021 issue.
I left Adelaide around 35 years ago when our company was attempting to run security and lifts from a
program installed on a 51/2 inch floppy disk. IT people,
as we now call them, were so aloof they could keep you
waiting for hours. I had my reservations back then, so
I pulled the pin.
I did some opal mining in an outback town and kept
their current technology going for nearly 10 years. No
computers in sight!
6
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
When my partner became sick of the desert, we moved
to a small town on the Yorke Peninsula, where I kept their
technology going for around 25 years.
Of course, I had to embrace computers once again;
they had improved and formed a good deal of my business in later years. I still felt the IT people had too much
control, though.
When I retired, I set myself up with a new laptop and
other tech with Windows 10. I persevered for quite a
while and eventually gave up for the very same reasons
as Nicholas. I now run Linux Mint, which I can update at
my leisure, and Android on my phone and tablet.
Life is good. Of course, some programs will only run
on Windows, so the IT people still have control!
Rick Boston, Warooka, SA.
Comment: Linux does handle updates a lot better than
Windows. It doesn’t force them down your throat or force
reboots, and now it can even perform kernel updates without needing to reboot.
Parts mixup in HF Preamp
For the Tunable HF preamp (January 2020; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/12219), I ordered the BF1105 Mosfet from
element14, and I had to purchase 10. I was unaware of the
differences in the Mosfets in regards to the letter after the
type number. The components I received were BF1105R.
The type required is the BF1105S.
This difference was not mentioned in the parts list. I
have since attempted to purchase the correct Mosfet, but
to no avail. The BF1105 is no longer in production and I
am unable to determine a substitute.
The major difference between the two Mosfets listed
above is that they are a mirror image of each other. Do
you know of a suitable substitute Mosfet and where I can
purchase one, preferably in Australia?
Paul McKendry, Kedron, Qld.
Comment: BF1105 is the correct part code. You can verify
this by checking the manufacturers’ data sheet at www.
nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/BF1105_R_WR.pdf
We were not aware that there was an R suffix version.
We have also been bitten by this ill-conceived practice of
incompatible devices differing only by an optional suffix.
Perhaps the creation of the BF1105S part code was due
to their realisation that it is a problem.
You are correct that the BF1105 is no longer being manufactured and there is no direct equivalent (as is the case
with so many of these discontinued dual-gate Mosfets),
but new old stock (NOS) parts are available at reasonable prices on eBay.
However, be careful because, according to the designer,
Charles Kosina, sometimes if you order a BF1105 from
eBay, you might get a BF1105R. It would be a good idea to
order a couple from different sellers to ‘hedge your bets’.
Caution when testing using variacs
After reading your article on Variac-based Mains Voltage Regulation in the May 2021 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/14856), I’d like to make some comments about
variacs (slide regulators).
It must be remembered that they are not isolation transformers. The fuse is merely to protect it and not you. These
are auto-transformers. They are directly connected to the
mains; therefore, you are not protected from it.
The only thing that will isolate you from the mains is
an isolation transformer. This would cover pretty much
any transformer that has no physical conductive connection between the primary and secondary. Often, variacs
are used in conjunction with an isolation transformer for
radio & other work.
The danger with slide regulators comes mainly on the
output side. RCDs trip based on current. To illustrate this,
I put a 30mA RCD tester on the output of a variac and
wound the volts up from zero. The RCD did not trip until
it got to 130V; therein lies risk.
One should be aware that safety devices are not failsafe;
there are limitations. As an example, with transformers. I
have seen a stick welder at a Men’s Shed and two others
elsewhere, plus a couple of radios, where there has been
a malfunction on the secondary incinerating the Earth
connections. In one case, it took out all the Earth wiring
in the building!
The circuit breakers, RCDs and fuses in this scenario
did not activate as, in most cases, the primary load did not
exceed the ratings, leaving the secondary to melt down.
There was no Earth leakage on the primary side, as the
secondary is isolated from the primary; the RCDs, where
fitted, had no cause to activate.
It all comes down to risk management and understanding what you are dealing with. That applies to everything.
My isolation transformer for radio work has circuit breakers on the primary and secondary and run lights to indicate if both are alive, plus a kill switch.
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10
Silicon Chip
Regarding thermal breakers, I have a UPS where a battery (one of two) failed, and there was no provision for
that. The regulator just kept pouring in power, and save
for the fact that I spotted the charge meter going down,
things could have become nasty.
The batteries were so hot you could not touch them,
and the dud was blistered. It now has a mains thermal
fuse to deal with any recurrence.
Marc Chick, Wangaratta, Vic.
Comment: many low-cost UPSs have the problem you
describe, and when (not if) the batteries fail, they become
fire hazards. It doesn’t help that the low-cost gel cells frequently supplied with them are lucky to last two years
on standby.
You’re 20 years too late
I have built many shortwave radios and all have similar
problems with noise levels. Emerging trends in the radio
spectrum make most, if not all, shortwave radio listening
and VHF/UHF scanners obsolete. Metropolitan interference noise levels and digital modes make most radio an
exclusive communications service, off-limits to anyone
with only a traditional analog shortwave radio or VHF/
UHF scanner.
If you have to use the internet to listen, it is no longer
truly radio listening; it’s just another web service. Traditional analog radio listening requiring a good antenna
and radio receiver.
In 2021, the VHF aircraft band and UHF citizens’ band
are just about the only activity on a radio scanner. Most, if
not all, other communications are now digital. Even amateur radio operators are slowly moving to digital.
Model trains are another hobby that’s dying out. Today,
metropolitan passenger trains are as interesting as an elevator ride for most of us.
Long gone is the age of steam trains and busy shunting yards, with many men working on the line. Try to set
up a traditional tabletop model train; it needs the same
room space as a pool table. Most of us, if under 40 years
old, will settle for playing a train simulator video game.
Digital wins again.
Your DIY projects are still good, even if fewer and fewer
of us will build them as life is so so busy.
John Crowhurst, Mitchell Park, SA.
Comments on the last few issues
I have enjoyed reading the last few issues of Silicon
Chip. Not every article is to my liking, but that is life.
Regarding your January editorial, if you need to raise the
price of the magazine, do so. Silicon Chip must make a
profit to survive, and please do not listen to those who
want everything for nothing.
I have to express some embarrassment over the publication of my Points Controller in the December 2020 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/14682). If you remember, after
I submitted the circuit, I notified you that MERG in Britain had produced an almost identical unit. Consequently,
I never expected you to publish it.
For some years, I have been hoping that Silicon Chip
would publish a robot project of some substance but, of
course, that has not happened.
I have been searching through old magazines and have
noticed that almost all the robot projects of any substance
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have been from individuals or businesses. The only magazine produced robots have been simple line followers or
simple Braitenberg type vehicles.
I suppose that makes sense considering the immense
effort that is required for such a complex machine.
I have considered submitting a robot project, but there
is always the question of whether it is worth the effort.
While thinking about the type of robot, I searched the
internet for images of what was already available. It is
absolutely amazing what is available. There is a huge
range of robots, either fully assembled or as kits, ranging
from very simple to very complex. That made me have
second thoughts.
I haven’t dismissed the idea entirely, but it needs to
be thought out very carefully and particularly as to the
mechanical capabilities of anyone wanting to build the
project. I have machining equipment; others do not.
Mechanical parts need to be relatively easy to obtain or
easily made with standard hand tools.
In my November 2020 letter, I referred to the poor efficiency of charging Li-ion cells, and I wanted a switchmode type charger instead of a linear. In the meantime,
I have been asked about available balancing modules for
several cells in series.
I remembered that the TL431 could be used to make
a shunt regulator. There was even an example circuit in
the Texas instruments data book. However, the original
TL431 required a minimum cathode current of 5mA,
and later versions required 1mA. This is too much for a
circuit that would be permanently connected to a cell.
A search for a better equivalent returned the ZR431,
manufactured by Diodes Incorporated. It has a minimum
cathode current of 50μA, and Digi-Key stocks the ZR431,
selling them for around 80¢ in one-off quantities.
The ZR431 now makes it feasible to make high powered shunt regulators to limit the cell voltage to 3.7V,
provided the charging is via a current limited supply.
With minimal electronics, a suitable solar panel can be
directly connected to a Li-ion battery without worrying
about overheating. Once all the battery cells are charged
to 3.7V, the shunt regulators will divert the excess power
into a heatsink.
George Ramsay Holland Park, Qld.
Comment: the existence of another similar points controller design does not detract from the usefulness of yours;
you developed it, and we can’t see any reason why others
would not want to build it. So it deserved publication.
You have struck on most of the reasons why we do
not publish many robot projects. They are difficult and
time-consuming to develop, require constructors to have
skills beyond electronics assembly, and it’s hard to think
of one which is more than just a novelty. Of course, we
would be happy to publish a good robotics project should
someone happen to contribute it.
We are working on a simple, shunt regulator based cell
balancer along the lines of what you suggest. There are
some subtleties that mean that you need a bit of extra
circuitry. But it isn’t too complex.
Hopefully, this will come to fruition in the next couSC
ple of months.
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Advanced medical
& Biometric Imaging
Part 2: By Dr David Maddison – Non-Medical Uses
Now that we’ve covered many medical imaging techniques like X-ray,
CT, PET, MRI and ultrasound, it’s time to cover other uses for these (and
similar) technologies. There are surprisingly many applications outside
the realm of healthcare.
Image source © Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons – https://w.wiki/3XDf)
Y
ou will be aware that X-rays are
used for security purposes, such
as at airports to check baggage and
passengers for contraband and weapons. But these days, it isn’t just X-rays
being used, and many of these imaging techniques are being used for other
purposes, like archaeology, as we shall
now describe.
X-ray inspection
When Röntgen discovered X-rays in
1895, he mentioned one possible use
as detecting flaws in materials such
as steam pressure vessels. They are
still used for that purpose to this day
– see Fig.49.
One important electronics-related
use of X-rays is the inspection of PCBs
and solder joints, especially when
solder joints are hidden, such as with
BGA and LGA packages. X-ray inspection is a critical part of quality control
for advanced electronics which make
extensive use of BGA/LGA package
devices – see Fig.50.
Defects that can be detected by X-ray
include breaks in tracks, voids in solder
joints and missing or incorrectly-sized
solder balls.
Airport baggage and cargo
Airport passenger luggage (and
indeed all aircraft cargo) is always
X-rayed to detect explosives or weapons (see Fig.51). X-ray machines have
traditionally been of the planar type,
with a single X-ray beam passing
through the luggage.
To give you some idea of the
advances in security X-ray technology, the machine shown in Fig.51
offers optional proprietary iCMORE
software algorithms to detect lithium
batteries, as well as other hazardous
or dangerous cargo such as flammable liquids or solids, and liquefied or
compressed gases.
We have probably all noticed the
images on the security screener monitors as we have gone through X-ray
security checkpoints at airports. But
Fig.50: an X-ray of an
assembled printed circuit
board (PCB) with a ball-grid
array (BGA) package IC at the
centre, and vias and passive
devices surrounding it. Not
only can you see the PCB
tracks, IC bond wires and
BGA solder balls adhering to
the lands and pads, but also
the copper plating in the vias
and the internal structure of
the components to the left,
which appear to be a resistor
and possibly a fuse.
Fig.49: X-ray inspection of a weld
showing defects.
Source: NTB (https://ntbxray.com).
14
Silicon Chip
what do the colours mean? X-rays do
not yield colour information, but they
do provide information about the average atomic weight and thickness of the
materials they pass through.
Most X-rays will pass through materials with a low average atomic weight,
such as plastics which include some
combination of two or more atoms of
carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen. Materials that have much higher
atomic weight metals such as steel and
aluminium will comparatively absorb
many X-rays.
Similarly, the thicker or more dense
something is, the more X-rays are
absorbed and the lower the X-ray count
through the material.
With security X-ray machines, the
X-ray image is artificially coloured
according to a material’s overall
atomic weight average (and density),
which initially appears as grey levels. The software colourises the greyscale X-ray image, as the human eye
can more readily distinguish colours
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
than shades of grey. This aids the job
of the security screener, providing a
rough indication of what materials
are present.
A certain amount of interpretation is
required, as a very thick layer of a low
atomic weight organic material like a
block of photocopy paper may appear
the same as a thinner layer of a more
dense metallic material.
Typically, materials can be identified according to whether they are
organic, metallic or a mixture of both,
and some further distinctions within
those categories.
Within organic materials, it is usually possible to distinguish between
harmless inert materials like clothing according to the substance’s
mean atomic number and density.
So it might be possible to distinguish
between materials like plastics, explosives and illicit drugs.
Lighter atomic number metals like
aluminium can be distinguished from
heavier atomic numbers like steel.
Similarly, gunpowder can usually
be identified. Gold and silver, which
might be the subject of smuggling,
can also be distinguished because of
the very high atomic number of these
metals.
Human intuition, common sense
and observation of a suspicious person
are also parts of the detection process.
Teledyne ICM (www.teledyneicm.
com) is one company that makes various security products. They produce
a system and software known as Flatscan for portable X-ray screening.
Fig.52 shows a monochrome X-ray
image produced with Teledyne’s Flatscan software, with no colour coding.
Firearms, bullets and a laptop computer are clearly visible. Lighter areas
represent substances of high atomic
weight like metals, where few X-rays
penetrate. Darker areas are lower
atomic weight materials such as plastics, where many X-rays penetrate.
In Fig.53, the image of Fig.52 has
been colourised. The firearms are blue,
suggesting they are very dense metal,
not fake plastic toys. The green/blue
square object indicates an item made
of dense plastics and metal, like a laptop computer.
In Fig.54, an image of a similar bag
has been processed using Teledyne’s
Flatscan software to reveal different
materials according to their atomic
weight. The non-organic materials or
dense organic plastics are green, with
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.51: the Smiths
Detection Group
Ltd HI-SCAN 10080
XCT advanced CT
explosives detection
system for checked
baggage and air cargo.
The manufacturer
states that it “features
a dual-view dualenergy X-ray line
scanner with full
3D volumetric
computed tomography
(CT) imaging and
reconstruction”.
53
52
Fig.52 (above left): a ‘standard’ greyscale X-ray image of a bag that an airplane
passenger might carry. Source: Teledyne ICM.
Fig.53 (above right): a colourised
version of Fig.52, showing different
details. Source: Teledyne ICM.
54
Fig.54 (lower right): this false-colour
X-ray image shows organic materials
in orange and inorganic in green,
with the inorganic materials mostly
removed. Source: Teledyne ICM.
Z-Number
Material Type
3 Color
6 Color
Examples
Possible Threats
0-8
Organic
Orange
Brown
Wood, Oil
C-4, TNT, Semtex
8-10
Low Inorganic
Orange
Orange
Paper
Cocaine, Heroin
10-12
High Inorganic
Green
Yellow
Glass
Propellants
12-17
Light Metals
Green
Green
Aluminium,
Silicon
Gunpowder,
Trigger Devices
17-29
Heavy Metals
Blue
Blue
Iron, Steel
Guns, Bullets,
Knives
29+
Dense Metals
Blue
Violet
Gold, Silver
High Value
Contraband
–
Impenetrable
Black
Black
Lead
Shielding for
above threats
Fig.55: an X-ray colour-coding scheme from Totalpost Mailing Ltd, showing the
atomic number range (Z) in the left column and examples of possible threats
that might be represented. Different software manufacturers may use different
colour coding. These colours do not apply to Figs.52-54.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 15
lighter organic materials represented
by orange.
Note the orange object (a light
organic material) at the bottom with
what appears to be green nails in it,
suggestive of a bomb; this might not
be readily visible without this sort of
high-contrast colouring scheme.
Fig.55 shows one possible colour
coding scheme for this type of
false-colour image. This is not necessarily consistent between X-ray
devices or manufacturers.
Backscatter X-rays for
airport screening
Fig.56: typical backscattered X-ray images from an airport security scanner
showing no weapons detected. Some systems have software that covers private
body parts. Source: US Transportation Security Administration (TSA).
Fig.57: the Tek 84 Defender airport body scanner. It uses software to provide
automated threat detection (ATD). When threats are detected, they are placed
on a cartoon figure representation of the body. It uses backscattered X-rays and
detects both metallic and non-metallic threats. Source: Tek 84.
Fig.58: the Z Portal
from Rapiscan AS&E
(www.rapiscan-ase.
com) for trucks and
cargo. It provides
high-throughput
backscattered X-ray
imaging of large trucks,
buses and shipping
containers. It can
process up to 250
trucks per hour.
The X-ray systems discussed above
operate in transmission mode. The
X-rays have to penetrate the target
and be detected by a sensor of some
kind. With backscattered X-rays, some
of the X-rays directed at the target are
instead reflected back toward the X-ray
source by a process called Compton
scattering.
One of the main applications for
backscattered X-rays is full-body
scanning in airport security systems
to detect weapons (see Figs.56 & 57).
Very low doses of X-rays are used,
about one-thousandth that of a chest
X-ray. These are not considered harmful, although not all agree with that
claim.
A controversial aspect of backscattered X-ray imaging is that it can produce high-resolution imagery of a
person’s body beneath their clothes.
Therefore, software often covers or distorts a person’s private parts, and the
screening agent looking at the image
may be physically separate from the
person being scanned.
X-rays of shipping containers
and trucks
X-rays of shipping containers and
trucks have become routine for security purposes and the unavoidable:
taxation! See Figs.58, 59 & 60.
These scanners provide high-resolution images. The X-rays are generated
with the aid of a linear accelerator.
Either regular transmission or backscattered X-rays can be used – backscattered X-rays have the advantage of
being less harmful to people, and can
be used if only one side of the object
is available for inspection.
Handheld backscattered
X-ray imaging system
These devices are suitable for
16
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
inspection applications like vehicles,
house walls, aircraft interiors, packages etc. They are handy when away
from stationary inspection systems
(see Figs.61 & 62).
CT scanning of the Antikythera Mechanism
The Antikythera Mechanism is an
extraordinarily complicated 2000+
year-old mechanism (Fig.63), recovered from a shipwreck by fishermen
around 1900. It had become a heavily
corroded, calcified mass that has been
intensively studied.
It was too fragile and corroded
to disassemble, so it was originally
X-rayed and has most recently has
been subjected to CT scanning, to try
to understand how it was made and
what it did. This revealed some hereto
unknown or undecipherable engravings (see Figs.64 & 65).
All the evidence points to it being
a type of mechanical orrery for predicting orbital positions and eclipses.
See the video titled “Scientists
Have Just Fully Recreated The Design
Of The Antikythera Mechanism For
The First Time” at https://youtu.be/
E8YUxuz1uZQ
An Australian YouTuber called
Chris has reconstructed the tools the
Ancient Greeks would have had, then
used those tools and techniques to
reproduce the mechanism. See his
videos playlist at siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab98
The industrial CT machine used
to scan the Antikythera Mechanism
was a prototype by X-Tek Systems
called Bladerunner (Fig.66), operating at 450kV. X-Tek is now Nikon
Fig.63: the mass of one of the fragments
of the Antikythera Mechanism. It can’t
be prised apart without destruction, so
it is investigated via non-destructive
means. Source: Wikimedia user
Marsyas.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.59: a backscatter X-ray image of a truck showing a dummy ‘hiding’ inside.
This was taken by a ZBV system manufactured by Rapiscan AS&E (www.
rapiscan-ase.com). Source: www.proammo.cz/x-rays/
Rifle
Propane Tank
Drugs
Fig.60: an image from the Z Backscatter system from Rapiscan Systems AS&E.
The backscatter X-ray of the suspect vehicle on the left reveals organic items
like drugs, while the transmission X-ray on the right reveals metallic objects.
Source: Rapiscan.
Fig.61: the handheld MINI Z
backscattered X-ray inspection system
from Rapiscan Systems / AS&E.
Fig.62: concealed items inside a car tyre are revealed with a MINI Z scanner.
Fig.64: a computer reconstruction and exploded view of the Antikythera
Mechanism. Source: Nikon
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 17
Metrology, and they offer a 450kV
machine called XT H 450 X-ray and
CT system with a unique 450kV
microfocus X-ray source. This gives
25 micron (0.025mm) repeatability
and accuracy.
The Dead Sea Scrolls
Fig.65: a CT reconstruction of the engravings on the Antikythera Mechanism
from within the encrusted, corroded mass. PTM stands for polynomial texture
mapping. CT imaging enabled unambiguous interpretation of previous results
(A vs B and C vs D, unknowns in squares). Source: Plos One (siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab9e)
Fig.66: the X-Tek,
now Nikon
Metrology XT H
450 X-ray and
CT machine for
high-resolution
non-medical X-ray
imaging and CT
scanning. A similar
device was used to
scan the Antikythera
Mechanism.
The Dead Sea Scrolls were one of
the world’s most spectacular archeological finds. They were found in
Israel in the later 1940s and early
1950s, consisting primarily of ancient
biblical scrolls about 2000 years old.
They were mostly written on parchment; some had become illegible due
to age and damage, while others were
so damaged and brittle they could not
be unwrapped.
Advanced methods were required
to read both some of the parchment,
papyrus and even copper scrolls.
Some otherwise unreadable parchment was read using the process of
multispectral imaging (see Fig.67).
This relies on the fact that the reflectance of ink and paper are much different with non-visible wavelengths of
light such as infrared. The remarkable
difference between the visible light
image and the infrared image can be
clearly seen in the figure.
The so-called En-Gedi scroll was
very badly damaged, brittle and very
little more than a chunk of burned
charcoal. It could not be unwrapped
as it would disintegrate. Archeologists
therefore ‘shelved’ it for many years,
waiting until technology could help
view its contents.
In 2016, it was imaged with a
micro-CT scanner by a team at the University of Kentucky, Hebrew University of Jerusalem and the Israel Antiquities Authority – see Fig.68. Also see
the video titled “Virtually Unwrapping
the En-Gedi Scroll (English)” at https://
youtu.be/GduCExxB0vw
The ink was iron- or lead-based
and so gave a contrast difference in
the imagery. After scanning, clever
mathematical techniques were applied
to ‘virtually unwrap’ the scroll and
read the text – see siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab99
The team that deciphered the
En-Gedi scroll is now looking at using
radiation from a synchrotron to read
certain scrolls at an even higher resolution than these CT scans.
A giant CT scanner
The Fraunhofer Institute for
18
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.67: a fragment of Biblical text on parchment, invisible to the
naked eye, is clearly revealed under infrared light.
Source: Israel Antiquities Authority.
Integrated Circuits IIS in Germany
(www.iis.fraunhofer.de/en.html) has
developed a giant CT scanner for scanning objects such as cars, shipping
containers or aircraft parts.
The system is known as high-energy
CT or XXL-CT (see Fig.69). The X-ray
beams used are up to 9MeV to provide
high penetration levels and suitable
imaging density and resolution in the
sub-millimetre range (Fig.70).
The main components are a linear
accelerator to produce X-rays, a 4m
wide X-ray detector for line-by-line
scanning, and a turntable to rotate
the object being scanned. A scan can
take up to 100 hours and produce terabytes of data to analyse. Applications
include:
• material analysis such as the
detection of defects in castings or
composite layups down to 0.2mm
• checking the assembly of various
components to make sure all parts
have been assembled correctly
(including the location of welds
and adhesives, cable layouts and
that no parts have been omitted)
• analysis of failed components
• examination of crashed vehicles
and comparison with simulations
• examination of objects for hidden
contraband
• digitisation of objects of significant cultural heritage (eg, so that
a destroyed statue could be reproduced)
Other uses for CT scanners
Apart from archeological investigations and engineering inspections,
industrial CT has a multitude of other
uses.
Among these are looking at the distribution of crystals or cavities inside
rock samples, examining embedded
or exposed fossils (Fig.71), studying
meteorites etc. CT scanners are also
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.68: the En-Gedi scroll was extremely damaged,
almost a lump of charcoal (see the image on the
right). It was scanned using a micro-CT scanner and
“unwrapped” with software, as shown on the left.
Source: University of Kentucky.
Fig.69: the Fraunhofer XXL-CT system. The main components are a linear
accelerator on the left to produce X-rays, a four-metre-wide X-ray detector on
the right for line-by-line scanning, and a turntable to rotate the object being
scanned. The object in the middle at the back is an alternative detector and
specimen manipulation system. Source: Fraunhofer IIS.
Fig.70: a CT image of a car made with the Fraunhofer XXL-CT machine.
Fig.71: an unusual
patient. This is a 3D CT
reconstruction of the skull
of a Herrerasaurus dinosaur
with a cutaway showing the
braincase. The sample is
32cm long.
Source: Carleton University.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 19
Fig.72: the Rapiscan 920CT airport CT hand baggage scanner.
Fig.73: the
primary
sequence
of an iris
recognition
scheme.
used for airport hand-luggage security
screening (Fig.72).
See the Youtube video titled
“920CT - SEE INSIDE THE FUTURE
- Checkpoint CT” at https://youtu.be/
PFOEQKqNOFE
Eye scans for
biometric security
Biometric imaging of the eye is
increasingly important for security
purposes. The iris or pattern of blood
vessels of the retina or sclera can
be scanned. The retina is the lightsensitive part at the back part of the
eye, while the iris is the coloured part,
the sclera is the white part of the eye.
Like a fingerprint, the eye has many
unique characteristics for each individual, even identical twins.
The retina has a unique pattern of
veins that remain stable throughout
life and are not prone to damage like
fingerprints (although they can change
somewhat due to various diseases).
These can be harmlessly imaged
20
Silicon Chip
using infrared light. Once an image is
acquired, the software checks whether
the scan matches the stored image of
an authorised person.
One disadvantage of the technology is the relative difficulty of quickly
acquiring a sufficiently high-quality
image, and cataracts or glaucoma can
render the technology unusable for
an affected individual. Retinal scanning is currently not the preferred
method of eye scanning due to these
difficulties.
The pattern of the iris is highly individual. While a fingerprint has 60-70
points of comparison, an iris has about
260. It is currently the preferred eyebased biometric security measure over
retinal scanning (see Fig.73). Iris recognition works by first taking a snapshot of the iris with a camera 10-100cm
away, using infrared light, which
copes better with all iris colours.
Once an eye image is acquired, the
image is processed, with concentric
circles around the iris forming a polar
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.74: this is the
optical fingerprint
scanner module that
we used in our November 2015 access
control project. More advanced (and
complicated) schemes can be used for
higher security.
coordinate system. These coordinates
are then transformed into a rectangular coordinates to create a strip image
which is then analysed.
The computer converts this image
to an “iris code”, which is a 512-digit
number used to compare with reference images.
As for fooling the system with cosmetic contact lenses, these can be
detected because they have different
reflective characteristics. Systems are
also in place to detect a living person’s
natural, involuntary eye movements,
plus the pupil expansion is checked.
However, some commercial scanners
without these precautions have been
fooled using high-resolution pictures
of a person’s eye.
Iris scanning is often confused with
retinal scanning, but iris scanning is
much more common.
Another method under development is scanning the blood vessels
of the sclera. It has the advantages
of rapid image acquisition with standard cameras, without needing infrared light.
Facial recognition
Facial recognition is used by smartphones, social media, governments,
militaries and police agencies. This
was the subject of an article in Silicon Chip, April 2019: “Big Brother IS
watching you: Facial Recognition!”
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11519).
See that article for further information
on this topic.
Fingerprint scanning
Many phones and other systems use
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.75: how two radiation sources
would appear if stored in an enclosed
container and imaged with an NGET
machine.
fingerprint scanning for access control.
These can be based on optical, capacitive, ultrasound or thermal technology. The fingerprint is first scanned by
one of these methods, then the distinguishing features of the fingerprint are
extracted and matched to a database.
We published a DIY project to build
a fingerprint-based door access controller in the November 2015 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9393).
That design used an optical fingerprint
scanning module – see Fig.74.
Neutron-Gamma Emission
Tomography (NGET)
NGET is a technology under development at the KTH Royal Institute of
Technology in Sweden to pinpoint
the source of nuclear materials that
could be used for terrorism, such as
weapons-grade plutonium or materials that could be used to make a “dirty
bomb”. It is a form of tomography for
nuclear materials – see Fig.75.
Fig.76: the Leidos ProVision 2 is a millimetre-wave scanner for aviation security
use. It features automatic target detection, and only shows a cartoon-style image
of the location of any detected items. It is designed to process 200-300 people
per hour. Source: Leidos (www.leidos.com).
Millimeter-wave imaging
Millimetre waves are radio waves
with a frequency around 30-300GHz.
Millimetre-wave whole-body imaging scanners illuminate the body
with low-power millimetre RF waves
and detect the reflected radiation –
see Fig.76. Unlike X-rays, millimetre
waves are a form of non-ionising radiation, and are claimed to be safer than
backscattered X-ray scanning.
Millimetre-wave scanners may be
active or passive. Active systems generate the radio waves themselves and
measure the reflected radiation, while
passive systems produce images from
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.77: the operating principle of ultrasonic material testing. An extra reflection
corresponding to a hidden defect results in an addition to the expected
reflections from the front and back surfaces. Ep relates to the depth of the piece,
while D relates to the defect depth. Source: Romary.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 21
Fig.78: the general scheme
of an acoustic emission
system. With multiple
transducers, the location
of the crack or other defect
can be determined. Source:
Khodadadi and Khodaii, 2018.
the millimetre waves naturally found
in the environment.
As with X-ray backscatter scanners,
many such machines use software to
disguise the body image and produce
only a generic cartoon-like outline of
the body showing the location of suspicious objects. See the video titled
“ProVision 2 - Compact Advanced Personnel Screening” at https://youtu.be/
O6HxV807f5A
Ultrasonic flaw detection
Ultrasonics can be used to detect
flaws in mission-critical components
such as aircraft parts. An ultrasonic
wave is sent into one side of the test
piece, and if an internal flaw is present, there is a reflection from it as
well as the far side of the piece. If
no flaw is present, there is only the
expected reflection from the far side
– see Fig.77.
Acoustic emission
Acoustic emission is the phenomenon whereby crack growth processes
in a material generate acoustic energy.
This typically occurs in response to
mechanical loading of the material. By
instrumenting an item under test, the
location of a propagating crack can be
determined, or the overall structural
health of an object under continuous
monitoring can be determined (see
Fig.78).
Acoustic waves generated by the
cracking process are typically in the
range of 100kHz to 1MHz. A computer can process signals from multiple acoustic sensors to determine the
location of a growing defect such as a
22
Silicon Chip
crack, eg, by triangulation. This process cannot detect defects that aren’t
growing. Acoustic emission testing is
typically used on:
• concrete structures like bridges
• metallic structures like pressure
vessels, pipelines, aircraft structures and steel cables
• composite structures such as used
in aircraft and racing cars, and
structural composite beams
• rotating machines, to detect bearing wear in machinery
• electrical machinery like transformers, to establish if there are
unwanted electrical discharges
taking place
• leak detection in pipes
Borescopes
Borescopes are the non-medical
equivalent of endoscopes and are used
to inspect inside engines, machinery, walls or ceilings, pipes, security
inspections, inside gun barrels, or
anywhere else where disassembly of
an item is impractical, expensive or
impossible – see Fig.79. They may be
rigid or flexible.
Low-cost borescopes can be purchased on eBay or from some retailers, and many of them connect to the
USB port of a computer or a phone.
We have even seen some for sale that
suit Android phones for less than $10,
while some more expensive modules
work over WiFi.
We have tried some slightly more
expensive models (around $30) and
found them to work very well for tasks
like checking inside ceiling cavities
through downlight openings.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Other Silicon Chip articles
Apart from those articles already
mentioned above, you might be interested to read the following sections of
past articles which touch on this topic:
• The Range-R through-wall scanner described in the article “History of Cyber Espionage... Part 2”
(October 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/12013).
• Ground-penetrating radar from
the article “Underground mapping... & pipe inspection” (February 2020; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/12334).
• Seismic surveys in the article
“Directional Drilling: How It
Works” (July 2016; siliconchip.
SC
com.au/Article/9997).
Fig.79: the PCE-VE 270HR
industrial-grade borescope from PCE
Instruments (www.pce-instruments.
com/english). It has a two-metre-long
flexible cable, 2.8mm in diameter.
siliconchip.com.au
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres®
ED
T
N
A
W
T
S
O
M
Electronics
SALE
everyone loves!
Top deals on tech
ember 30th.
prices end Sept
Hurry, discounted
1080p
HD!
49
$
ADD ON DEAL:
USB QC 3.0 wall charger
for $10 (M 8863)
D 2320
Wireless Charger Alarm Clock
A stylish USB powered clock with in-built 10W wireless
charging for your phone & 8 colour night light. Clock auto
dims at night time. Dual alarms so you’ll always wake up on
time! USB output also lets you charge your watch.
A complete computer the size of a keyboard!
A neat new portable design ideal for education environments. With all the same features as
the Raspberry Pi 4, it’s a powerful computing platform for work, education and play! Rear
panel provides access to all ports including the GPIO header. Add on accessories:
P 6631 1.5m micro HDMI cable $22.95. M 8821 Power supply $19.95. D 0313 Noobs
16GB micro SD card $23.95.
8
Z 6421
This handy HD camera can be installed indoors
or out and has a long life battery so you don’t
need to run cables! Offers 4-6 months of motion
detect recording. When it’s flat, just take it off the
wall & recharge via USB. iOS and Android app
monitoring via Tuya Smart Home app.
The new Pi Pico is a tiny, fast and versatile
board using RP2040 - a brand new
microcontroller. Programmable in C and
MicroPython this handy board can be used to
integrate into any project of your own making.
Our first stocks sold out fast - secure yours!
This 45W USB-C power
delivery (PD) charger
offers recharging for
MacBooks, Nintendo
Switch and other type C
equipped devices. Also
provides two type A
USB outputs.
SAVE 13%
2 For
P 8149
37
$
34.95
$
M 8868
14.95
SAVE 20%
40
$
T 2164A
X 0604B
SAVE 24%
30
$
Pro 72pc Repair / Servicing Tool Set
Bluetooth FM Audio/
Hands Free Adapter
A premium finish aluminium driver handle with silent
ball bearing ferrule top. Contains a huge variety of driver 4x28mm driver bits, double ended opening tools,
spudger, curved tip tweezers and flexible drive extension. It makes servicing high tech devices easy!
Transmits bluetooth audio from
your phone (music, routes
phone calls etc) to your cars FM
radio. Plus it’s also a QC3.0 &
USB C charger.
K 9642
310pc Jumper Header Kit
A huge assortment of single row
header connectors for making your
own custom length wiring. Includes
male & female pin headers, plus
2.54mm housings.
Breaks out all pins to
sockets which can be used
without solder.
Premium
Autoranging True
RMS Multimeter
Our first multimeter with
wireless USB charging
in-built! No more changing
batteries. Includes top spec
features such as illuminated
sockets, LED torch, desk
stand, True RMS, non contact
voltage detection, frequency
meter and relative mode.
NEW!
99
$
7
$ .95
PiicoDev Expansion
Save time in the car with
this handy motorised
air vent phone mount.
It automatically secures
your phone in the mount
and starts charging!
Works with Qi wireless
charging equipped
phones.
SAVE 50%
$
With
stylish
RGB light!
Z 6419
Wireless Charging
Phone Holder
Need an extra
laptop charger?
VALUE!
Includes hard to find bit types
for latest phones & laptops
NEW!
$ .95
Raspberry Pi Pico is here!
Cable Free Wi-Fi Camera
Automate your
appliances with
Wi-Fi power sockets.
Switch any connected appliance
on or off remotely from anywhere
in the world. Set schedules,
monitor and control via your
using the Tuya Android/iOS app.
Maximum 10A 2400W. Works
with Google Home and Alexa.
The Raspberry Pi® 400
S 9843B
179
125
$
Dual 4K
monitor
ready!
SAVE $20
$
SAVE 10%
Z 6415 4GB RAM
Amazing
value under
$100
Q 1073A
Order online <at> altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends September 30th 2021.
SAVE $19
60
$
D 2209
Upgrade the workbench.
69.95
Take quick notes
while you work
$
X 0102
Write a reminder, take a
phone message or leave
a note for your family with
our handy eWriter LCD
board. Ultra thin, portable
design is also great for
kids to draw on. Size:
226x146mm.
ONLY...
18.50
SAVE $60
$
Makes
jewellery
sparkle
again!
T 2237
Hands free, head
worn magnifier.
SAVE 15%
30
$
Thousands sold!
Offers 1.5, 2.6 and 5.8x
magnification with LED lamp.
Requires 2xAAA batteries.
T 2555
Blast away dirt
& grime on parts
Our most popular model! Clean small parts,
jewellery, shaver heads, glasses and more! Shifts
grease, dust and gunk from tiny crevices in
just minutes using ultrasonic waves. Tank size:
155x98x52mm.
14ea
$
15% OFF 60/40 Leaded Solder Reels
Micron® 60W
Digital Soldering Station
109
$
T 2417
An excellent multi purpose soldering iron for service technicians, schools, engineers, R&D, production work etc.
Japanese long life ceramic element. 150°-480°C. 0.8mm
tip. 2 year warranty.
STOCK UP AND SA
VE
THIS MONTH ONLY !
.
250 gram rolls. T 1100, T 1110, T 1122
SAVE $22
screw heads!
Torque adjustment prevents chewed out
88
$
SAVE $24
115
$
T 2128A
T 2098
Repair faster with a lithium screwdriver.
This USB rechargeable screwdriver features a fully adjustable torque drive
for fast and accurate driving of precision screws found in modern high tech
devices. Two way direction control. Standard 4mm driver bits (40 included).
3 hours use per charge. See web for full contents list.
300W Adjustable Solder Pot
Tin multiple stranded hookup wires or removing multipin connectors from boards quickly and easily. Takes
up to 1350g of solder. Stable temperature control:
200-480°C. Suitable for lead free and leaded work. 1kg
leaded solder bar $64.95 (T 1140A). 300W.
SAVE
15%
29
$
T 4015A
Never lose a tiny screw again!
A 35x26cm heat resistant silicon work mat, plus a 25x20cm magnetic mat to keep screws and materials organised while you work.
18
$
29
.95
$
T 5049 174x108x45
Was $22.95
Great
quality!
84
$
26
.95
$
T 5051 302x206x162
Was $105.
99
T 2306
T 1461
45
$
.95
Ultimate Flexible Helping Hands
Upgrade to the ultimate in soldering helper hands. Includes
magnifier to assist with those fiddly jobs. Arm length ≈30cm.
$
T 5053 352x242x172
Was $125.
T 2758A
5pc Plier & Cutter Set
A must have for any electronics enthusiast. Includes: • Side cutters.
• Flat long needle nose pliers. • Flat
bent needle nose pliers. • Long nose
pliers/cutters. • Bull nose pliers
Premium Grade
HSS-R Drill Bit Set
SAVE
20%
T 5056 452x352x192
Was $205.
209
$
19.95
16.95
10 Pack of PCB Drills
T 2329
A 10 piece set of PCB drill bits in a handy plastic
carry case. Includes 10 sizes: 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6,
0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2mm.
15.95
$
A handy 4” stainless steel bowl
with magnetic base to keep screws
from straying while you work
Precision Knife Set
T 5066 521x292x183
Was $265.
Jellyfish® Equipment Cases
T 1489
T 4018
Magnetic Bowl
164
$
19pcs between 1mm and
10mm for plastic, wood and
metals. Metal storage case.
$
$
135
$
T 5055 412x302x182
Was $170.
T 1489
Includes aluminium handle with 13 blades
to suit different cutting jobs. Includes plastic
carry case.
Top quality sealed IP67 rated cases for storing test gear,
tools, cameras, drones - anything important that needs
protection! Padlockable latches with perforated foam for easy
customisation. Measurements are internal size.
Order online <at> altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends September 30th .
Gear for the open road.
ty.
electrical safe
• Isolated for
.
ut
tp
ou
e
av
w
• Pure AC sine
approved.
11
.20
63
47
ZS
• AS/N
lay*
• LCD stats disp
155
$
M 8060 300W
289
300W
*Not available on
$
M 8062 600W
429
$
Powerhouse®
Portable Power
Battery Box
Fits a standard 90-120Ah automotive battery for powering
appliances at your camp site - a
totally self contained power unit!
Fitted with 2.4A USB charger, dual
Anderson sockets, volt meter, car
acc. socket & battery terminals.
M 8064 1000W
T 5098
625
$
Convenient top
mount connections,
breaker &
voltmeter.
M 8065 1500W
Fitted with
secure lid clips
& colourful LED
voltmeter
SAVE $30
109
$
Power mains appliances from your car battery.
The Powerhouse® BlackMax Inverter range is here!
Housed in a rugged aluminium extrusion, this new range delivers robust reliability and
unwavering performance - even under severe operating conditions. For peace of mind all models
have been certified to Australian Standard AS/NZS 4763.2011. Ideal for tricky loads, such as
laptops, & game consoles. Perfect for 4WDs, campers, caravans & trade vans.
PWM Waterproof Solar Chargers
45.95
$
Compact sealed design. Easy to connect to
12V battery systems. IP68 rated. 10A for
<120W panels, 20A for <240W panels.
Size: 82Wx45Dx21Hmm.
N 2008 10A
54.95
$
Powerhouse®
Watt Meter 130A
Perfect for measuring
input and output currents
and wattage from solar
panels or batteries. This
digital wattmeter accurately
measures DC power usage.
Display measures volts, watts
and amps in real-time. Peak
current 200A.
M 8636A
Don’t get a
h
caught wit y!
flat batterwer
Know your po
usage.
$
39.95
P 7812
SAVE $10
39.95
N 2009 20A
Triple USB
Car Charger
L 2003
89
$
are
Includes 10m cable & mounting hardw
Caravan/Boat TV Antenna
Get crystal clear TV reception wherever you
travel! Omnidirectional 360° design requires no
adjustment when you park up. Easy DIY install.
NEW!
S 2750
59.95
$
49.95
Q 0592
Digital Power Meter
A comprehensive power monitor panel for
solar and remote power systems. Huge
selection of on screen power stats. Supplied
with a 200A shunt for easy connection. Cut
out size: 87 x 47mm.
$
Features 3 x 20A 12V DC rated switches with
red illuminated with individual 15A DC breakers.
Dimensions: 114W x 96H x 60Dmm.
39.95
$
Anderson/USB/Car Acc. Panel
19.95
$
Handy power connection panel for flush mounting
power connections into cabinets or bodywork.
Mounting hole size: 126x30mm
M 8628B
3 Way Breaker & Switch Panel
NEW!
$
Keep everything
charged up in the
car with this handy
7.2A triple USB
charger. Stylish
carbon fibre
look finish.
IP67 Dust & Water Proof DC Conectors
Great for automotive
wiring - requires no
special crimpers to
terminate! Use a
standard automotive
crimper, pliers or
solder terminate.
14A rated.
Pins
Part
ONLY
2 Pin
P 7892
$8.95
$11.95
$17.95
$19.95
3 Pin
P 7893
4 Pin
P 7894
6 Pin
P 7896
NEW!
X 6015
OBD II Bluetooth Scanner
44
$
Connects your car via Bluetooth to your
smartphone to provide a wealth of diagnostic
information. Monitor performance in real time!
It works with many OBDII compatible apps.
NEW!
68.95
P 8073
Corner Mounts
$
T 1539
SAVE 25%
45
$
29.95
$
Battery Capacity Meter
Q 0587
A handy (and colourful!) meter for keeping
an eye on your battery usage. Cut out size:
87 x 47mm. 0-100V battery input.
M 8655
Anderson
Style To USB
Charger Cable
A 2m Anderson style cable fitted with USB type
C Power Delivery Charger (18W) & USB QC 3.0
port for keeping devices charged.
P 8067
Side Mounts
26.95
$
ABS ‘No Drill’ Solar Panel Mounts
These tough surface mount brackets offer a
way to mount solar panels without penetrating
the roof of the caravan or boat. They can be
attached using a silastic or similar adhesive.
Ideal
for DIY DC
power
wiring
Ratchet Lug Crimper
Quick and easy crimping for Anderson SB50
connectors and other uninsulated lugs
between 20AWG & 8AWG.
Order online <at> altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends September 30th .
Lighting.
Home Security.
IP65 weatherproof casing
with stainless steel
brackets and hardware.
SAVE $100
399
$
S 9901J
IS PRICE!
20 SYSTEMS ONLY AT TH
Standard
Genlamp® Security LED
Floodlights
Great for added security around the
house, back shed or garage. PIR models
activate when motion is detected & have
adjustable sensitivity, on time and dusk
settings. Fitted with 240V 3 pin mains
plug. Fully approved. Natural white.
Rust free stainless steel brackets and
hardware.
89.95
X 2318C 50W
Affordable 5 Megapixel
CCTV Surveillance System.
PIR
99
$
Simple to install with instructions supplied. Cameras can be remote viewed on iOS/Android. Each pack
includes: • Hybrid digital video recorder (IP camera ready!) • Pro grade 5MP resolution weatherproof
cameras • 20m connection leads • Power supply
$
X 2317C 50W
• HARD DRIVES TO SUIT: 1TB $98 (D 5514), 2TB $130 (D 5516).
59.95 $79.95
$
X 2314C 20W
X 2315C 20W
39
X 2312C 10W
Tuya® Smart Home Cameras.
59
.95 $
$
Why settle for
just HD? This
system features
2K detail and
clarity.
.95
Tuya is a common application for thousands of products from the worlds leading Smart Home
suppliers. It provides a single point of control for home security, lighting and appliance power
allowing you to control everything you need from a the one smartphone app. The Tuya IoT
platform powers over 250,000 home automation products across the globe!
X 2340C 10W
Build a
camera into
anything!
ht
Super flex design for tig
Part
RRP
NOW
UV
X 3300
$125
W/White
X 3301
$99
Nat. White
X 3302
$99
Green
X 3303
$99
Red
X 3304
$99
Blue
X 3305
$99
Pink
X 3306
$120
$75
$79
$79
$79
$79
$79
$85
Colour
radius bends.
89.95
89.95
$
$
S 9844
S 9846
Wi-Fi Camera Module
HOT
PRICE!
79.95
$
SAVE
UP TO
$50
• Ultra 1080p HD compact module
can be built into custom enclosures
• Completely wireless - set it up
anywhere! • USB rechargeable • 100
mins motion activated recording time.
Mini Wi-Fi Cube Camera
• Internal battery - set it up anywhere! • Day/night with IR
• USB rechargeable • 100 mins
motion activated recording time.
• 1080p HD<
S 9017A
Indoor Pan
& Tilt Wi-Fi Camera
Neon Flex Rope LED Lighting
Use it in long lengths for stunning coloured lighting effects or cut and
shape into your own custom “neon” signs. Ultra flexible outer sheath. Cuts
every 50mm. 12V input, bare end connection - works great with P 0610A
2.1mm DC jack. IP65 weatherproof. 5m reels.
Makes a great baby or pet monitor, this 1080p camera features
intelligent tracking of moving
objects within the frame. 2-way
audio with mic and speaker. 5m
IR night time coverage. USB
powered.
Wi-Fi HD Camera Clock
• 1080p HD footage.
• Real alarm clock function.
• Two-way audio (mic & speaker). • Motion detect recording.
• USB or battery powered
(S 4736 x 2 $18.50ea)
*Note: We encourage this item be used
responsibly for legitimate CCTV use.
SAVE $30
S 9850
139
$
ebay.com.au/str/altronicsaustralia
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Western Australia
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Sale Ends September 30th 2021
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Joondalup: 2/182 Winton Rd
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
Victoria
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2166
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave
03 9549 2188
03 9549 2121
New South Wales
» Auburn: 15 Short St
02 8748 5388
Queensland
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
07 3441 2810
South Australia
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd
08 8164 3466
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2021. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0092
Find a local reseller at: altronics.com.au/storelocations/dealers/
THE CROMEMCO DAZZLER
The Cromemco Dazzler was probably the first ‘reasonable’ computer
graphics device capable of producing a colour image. It generated an
NTSC composite video signal that could be fed to a monitor or TV. As
they are now quite rare, I built a copy of the
By Dr Hugo Holden
device and in doing so, discovered some quirks.
C
omputer graphics were coming
of age in the mid-to-late 1970s,
and efforts were being made to provide home computer enthusiasts with
graphics accessory cards. These were
typically designed to be used in early
S-100 computers such as the Altair
and others.
Matrox was on the front line then,
with monochrome graphics cards such
as the ALT-256 and the ALT-512 (as
described in our October and November 2020 issues; see siliconchip.com.
au/Series/352).
Three Matrox monochrome cards
could be deployed to make an RGB
colour system, but it was a very expensive purchase.
Other companies such as Godbout
Electronics offered the “Spectrum”
board by 1980, which was advanced
enough to support colour and have
onboard video RAM. But before that,
the Cromemco company offered the
“Dazzler” board set in 1976.
graphics cards. It was the first colour
graphics card for S-100 bus computers, having an NTSC colour composite
video output.
The idea behind it was born in 1975
when Roger Melon and Harry Garland
created the first solid-state video camera. Their idea was to use a 1k x 1 bit
MOS dynamic RAM IC with its top cut
off, acting as an optical sensor (transistors are photosensitive). This led to the
creation of the “Cyclops” solid-state
video camera (Fig.1), and the founding of Cromemco.
The camera controller board put
the camera’s pixel data into general
RAM in the host computer. The Dazzler board could read that RAM and
create a standard (or close to standard)
NTSC composite video signal to feed
a colour video monitor or a domestic
TV set via an RF modulator.
But the Dazzler board set became an
entity of its own. It was presented as a
Fig.1: the Cromemco “Cyclops”
video camera was innovative in
that its sensor was an SRAM chip
with the lid removed! That’s a
similar principle to the one used by
CCD and CMOS sensors today.
Dazzler history
The Cromemco Dazzler was pivotal in the development of computer
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 27
project to build in Popular Electronics
magazine, February 1976. It became so
popular that Cromemco started making it, both in kit form and fully assembled and tested.
It found its way into the television
industry, being used to produce colour
graphics for weather forecasts.
Unlike other graphics cards of the
time, which had non-interlaced scanning, the composite video signal generated by the Dazzler was an interlaced scan, compatible with the NTSC
colour television system.
The Dazzler has no onboard video
RAM; instead, it hijacks the host computer’s system RAM for the job by
using direct memory access (DMA).
This required the computer’s RAM
to be fast static RAM with an access
time of 1µs or less. Dynamic RAM did
not work because the refresh activities
interrupt the proceedings.
The Dazzler came as two separate
S-100 boards, linked by a 16-way ribbon cable, as shown in the photo.
The two boards contain a total of 72
ICs, most of which are common 74 or
74LS series TTL types. The exception
is one extremely rare IC, the TMS3417
quad 64-bit shift register, which was
rare even in the 1970s.
Dazzler board sets are very hard to
come by these days, so I realised that
if I wanted to try one out, I would have
to make replica PCBs and obtain the
parts to populate them.
Making the boards
Cromemco provided the PCB foil
patterns in their manual, but the old
photocopies I could find were not very
clear in places.
After some months tracing over
them in a drawing program, I managed
to make clear copies of each board’s
top and bottom track patterns. Then
I checked them against the schematic
to correct errors, which took a few
late nights.
I then sent the image files to LD Electronics (see Market Centre on p111),
and they made very high-quality PCBs
for me, with an exact track pattern
Figs.2 & 3: the reconstructed Dazzler
boards, packed with discrete logic
ICs. Note the blue socket in a similar
position on both boards, which
allowed them to be connected via a
ribbon cable with IDC connectors at
each end with the same footprint as a
DIP chip.
28
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
replica to my drawings and with gold
plating. George from LD Electronics
did a terrific job; they are likely better
than the originals.
Figs.2 & 3 are the overlay diagrams
for the two PCBs, showing both copper
layers and where the components go.
I acquired all of the components
required as per the parts list in the
Cromemco manual. As part of this, I
imported NOS Augat gold machined
pin sockets for all the ICs.
It became apparent right away that
the TMS3417NC 5MHz 64-bit shift
register would be a problem. The closest modern part I could find was the
74HCT7731, but it has a different pinout, and I was not 100% sure if it was
a suitable substitute.
Another possible candidate is the
Fairchild F3342DC, which is pincompatible, but only rated at 2MHz.
Initially, that put me off. However, a
Practical Electronics article from 1976
showed an F3342DC IC being used in
a Dazzler.
After much searching I found a
small number of TMS3417 IC in Germany and a few F3342DCs in the
USA, so I am well stocked for these
now. Once I got the Dazzler operating,
I found that the clock frequency for
this shift register is close to 1.8MHz,
explaining why both the 2MHz and
5MHz rated shift registers work.
Once the Dazzler was assembled,
I fitted it to my SOL-20 computer.
Much to my surprise, considering all
the steps involved in the PCB artwork
and the large number of mainly vintage
ICs, it worked immediately. By that,
I mean that it responded normally to
manipulating its registers and testing its modes and running a software
package.
Testing it out
My SOL-20 computer has external
5.25in disk drives which allow me to
run the CP/M operating system. This
has an assembler, so I was able to
assemble the Kaleidoscope program.
This was one of the most famous
programs that ran with the Dazzler. It
puts the Dazzler cards into a 2KB 64
x 64 pixel display mode (4096 pixels
total). Fig.4 shows the space occupied
on a monitor by the Dazzler’s image in
this mode. Four bits of each byte control a pixel; three bits code the RGB
combination and one bit the intensity,
as shown in Fig.5.
The Kaleidoscope program places
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 29
Screens 1-6: these still images don’t really do the Kaleidoscope software justice. Check out https://youtu.be/2tDbn1N8EWI
to see it in action.
the image in the computer’s RAM
starting at address 0200 hex and ending at 09FF hex. The image is divided
into four 512 pixel blocks, as shown
in Fig.6. The program only alters one
512 pixel block, and the data is rotated
and copied into the other three blocks
to provide the Kaleidoscope-like symmetrical effect.
When the Kaleidoscope program
is running, it is quite something to
observe. You can see a video of the
resulting display at https://youtu.
be/2tDbn1N8EWI
It is hypnotic and mesmerising. The
images shown in Screens 1-6 only indicate how it looks. These stills were
photographed directly from the face
of the CRT.
If the program is terminated (with
a CPU reset), this resets the Dazzler
hardware and switches the Dazzler off.
The last image values remain in RAM,
so if the Dazzler board is switched
back on and set into the same mode,
the last image is seen there as a still
frame.
This short machine language program switches the Dazzler on:
3E 81 D3 0E 3E 30 D3 0F C3 04 C0
Fig.4: the image from the Dazzler
doesn’t fill the screen; instead, it
is a rectangle about 68% of the
scan width and 77% of the height.
The black borders around the
edges would be smaller on a TV
screen due to overscan. It could
produce a 64 x 64 pixel image with
4-bit colour, or a 128 x 128 pixel
monochrome image.
30
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.5: the 15 colours available in 4-bit
colour mode. The I bit controls the
intensity while the R, G and B bits
determine the colour. They could have
added a 16th colour (dark grey) by
using the intensity bit in combination
with black, but that probably would
have complicated the circuitry.
This is equivalent to the short
assembly language program:
MVI A,81H
OUT 0EH ; sends 81H to port 0E
on Dazzler card (starts image
at 0200H)
MVI A,30H
OUT 0FH ; sends 30H to port 0F
on Dazzler card (colour mode
2k picture)
JMP 0C004H ; returns to the
Sol’s operating system
without a reset
These are easily entered to memory
say (at 0100 hex) in the Sol with the
EN command, and executed with the
EX 0100 command.
Video signal details
The output is an interlaced scan format (as is NTSC); however, there are no
equalising pulses around the vertical
sync pulse. So the interlace is not perfect, and examination shows there is a
slight line pairing of the scan lines of
consecutive even and odd fields. This
is only detectable with a monochrome
image on a monochrome monitor; it is
much harder to see on a colour monitor/TV.
The Dazzler also has a non-standard
horizontal line scan period. For NTSC,
this is usually around 63.5µs, while for
the Dazzler, it is around 62.6µs.
In addition, the Dazzler uses a very
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: the addresses where pixel data appears in the computer’s memory in
4-bit (64 x 64 pixel) mode with a starting address of 200 hex, compared to
the physical layout. Note how the data jumps from the upper left quadrant to
the upper right, then to the lower left and lower right, complicating how the
computer needs to write video data.
wide burst gate pulse of around 4.7µs.
This lets through a wider-than-normal
colour burst, which starts immediately after the horizontal sync pulse,
so there are more cycles of the colour
burst. The colour burst also appears
on the vertical sync pulse when it is
low, due to the way the pulses are
combined.
None of this usually bothers the
NTSC colour decoders in TV sets.
Only a percentage of the active line
and active field time scan is used, so
there is quite a lot of space on the
screen around the actual displayed
pixel area. This helps to allow for overscan on domestic TV sets.
About 77% of the vertical active
scan time is used, and about 68% of
the active horizontal scanning time.
So the image on the monitor’s 4 x 3
screen (1.33 ratio) adopts a 1.17 ratio,
with the overall image (and each pixel)
not being perfectly square.
Screen 7: the colour test bars as
produced by the Dazzler on a
standard NTSC-compatible CRT
screen.
Screen 8: the same bars as in Screen
7, shown on a monochrome display.
They don’t decrease in intensity leftto-right as expected.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 31
Scope 1: this scope
grab shows how
the NTSC DC signal
level jumps around
as the CRT beam
sweeps across the
test bars. With a
standard NTSC
signal, you would
expect a series of
evenly decreasing
‘stair steps’ instead.
Screen 9: the rearranged colour
test bars should allow the Dazzler
to produce the expected result on a
monochrome display...
The colour encoder
To check the Dazzler’s operation and
correctly set its red and green colour
carrier phase adjustments, I wrote a
short assembly language program to
generate an output that resembled a
standard NTSC colour test pattern.
This enabled the best setting of these
controls for the most accurate colour
rendition and white balance.
I used Figs.5 & 6 to help me do this.
Note how the memory addresses are
not continuous due to being broken
up into four quadrants.
I wrote a standard NTSC test pattern
into the memory, and Screen 7 shows
the result (with optimum adjustments
of the R & G phase presets on board 1)
with high-intensity colours selected.
If the usual NTSC luminance (Y
signal) weighting was used, when
switched to monochrome (on the TV
or monochrome mode on the Dazzler
card), it should give a descending
order of luminance from left to right.
However, it did not as Cromemco
chose a different arrangement.
Scope 1 shows the monochrome
mode levels (also notice the wide
burst is still there in monochrome
mode), while Screen 8 shows the
image on a monochrome monitor. In
the Cromemco system, the next step
down in luminance from white is cyan,
then magenta, blue, yellow, green and
finally, red. For comparison, the standard NTSC luminance steps are shown
in Fig.7.
This anomaly comes about because
of the relative proportions of R, G & B
to create white in the Cromemco luminance resistor matrix differ from the
standard. For NTSC, the weighting
is generally 30% red, 59% green and
11% blue but the Dazzler uses weights
of 14% red, 29% green and 57% blue.
Despite this, it is hard to see the
effect of it on a colour image. This is
because the colours are heavily saturated. The problem is only apparent
Fig.7: for a standard NTSC signal, the test pattern
contains coloured bars in this order. On a monochrome
monitor, they appear as bars of decreasing intensity leftto-right.
32
Silicon Chip
when the card is switched to monochrome mode.
I programmed another test pattern
to investigate this, putting the colours
in the luminance order that Cromemco
did. This is shown in Screen 9, and
it includes the memory byte values
(for two consecutive pixels) that correspond to the colour and intensity
selection. Notice how the byte values
correspond directly to the brightness
level, and also that blue looks a tad
purple (for reasons explained below).
When switched to monochrome
mode, the greyscale is very respectable for this colour order (Screen 10).
The magnitude of the grey level being
proportional to the nibble value that
codes the pixel is convenient for programming monochrome images.
If the three RGB resistor mixing
assignments are switched around
to make them conform to an NTSC
scheme, the result is as shown in
Screens 11 & 12.
Fig.8: the general colour mixing scheme used by the
Dazzler, similar to how audio data is typically mixed, with
a virtual-Earth inverting amplifier. The resistor values
determine the relative intensities of red, green and blue, as
shown at the bottom of the figure.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Screen 10: ...and here’s confirmation
that they do so.
Screen 11: back to the standard colour
test bars, but this time with tweaked
R, G & B intensities to give a more
correct result.
Screen 12: the same display at left
on a monochrome monitor, confirms
that changing the relative intensities
produces the expected result.
It became clear after some investigation why this was the case. The colour
system which interprets the memory
byte (or nibble for a single pixel) used
in this mode is MSB…LSB (MSB is the
most significant bit, LSB the least significant bit) where the four bits code
I, B, G, R where I is intensity, high (1)
or low (0).
Changing that to I, G, R, B would
give the Dazzler a colour order that
matched NTSC. Also, an RGB image (if
that were to be provided directly from
the board) would match up exactly
with a composite video image in all
respects (except perhaps having superior resolution).
Why Cromemco did not make it like
this is a mystery; however, in the field
of computer graphics, things like this
often crop up. Most early computer
systems used monochrome or RGBI
systems (like CGA), and there was less
compatibility with domestic television systems.
As another example of this sort of
thing, in IBM’s early computers from
the 1980s, the output from IBM’s CGA
card had both composite and RGBI
outputs. But the image seen on a composite monitor did not match up with
that seen on a CGA monitor.
Fig.8 shows how to calculate the relative contributions of the red, green,
and blue channels to the output’s luminance level based on the resistor values in the circuit.
In Cromemco’s original scheme, to
use the host computer’s memory byte
to represent two pixels, they assigned
them as shown at the top of Fig.9. In
the NTSC system, where the relative
luminance intensities were assigned
to the three colours G > R > B, (59%
> 30% > 11%), if this is normalised to
make blue = 1 then the proportions are
5.4 green, 2.7 red and 1.0 blue.
Therefore, if the colours are also represented by three binary bits per pixel,
the intensity weighting is not too far off
the bit magnitudes of 4, 2 and 1. This
is why in a digital system attempting
to replicate NTSC video, it is better to
have blue as the LSB and green as the
MSB, as shown at the bottom of Fig.9.
This way, when the bits are mixed
in magnitude to form a greyscale, it
better matches the NTSC system.
Presumably, Cromemco did it this
way so that the greyscale intensities
corresponded to the binary values
stored in memory. However, if the
colour image in memory was derived
from NTSC originally, then the picture
would not have the correct shades of
grey in monochrome mode.
It is simple to modify the Dazzler
card to fix this by swapping the three
resistors around and switching the
three connections feeding the luminance adder as shown in Fig.10. However, I do not propose to modify my
card, because that would be like trying
to change history, and I want to keep
the Dazzler the way it was designed.
Fig.10 (right): the Dazzler’s mixer circuitry could be modified
like this to produce a more standard signal, but the author built his card with the original design for authenticity.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
►
►
Fig.9 (below): how the RGB pixel data is stored in
memory interacts with the circuitry to determine
the ratios they are mixed in. If changed from the
existing order at the top to the new order at the
bottom, the NTSC signal produced would be more
standard, producing the expected test pattern on
a monochrome monitor.
September 2021 33
Fig.11: more details of the circuitry
surrounding the output stage, showing
the phase shift circuitry used to
generate the colour subcarriers.
Colour encoder details
Fig.12 (right): a standard NTSC phasor
diagram. As described in the text,
the phase shifts produced by the
Dazzler are slightly different
(as well as the amplitudes),
producing less pure colours.
Circuit complexity would
have to increase to produce
more accurate results.
Fig.13 (above): in monochrome mode, even the pixel order within a single byte
is not straightforward! The bits control pixels spread across two lines, in a nonobvious order, complicating the code to drive the display.
34
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
The output amplifier is in an inverting configuration, so its input has a
virtual Earth. Therefore, the currents
fed in via the resistors shown in Fig.11
are mixed without interfering with
each other.
The standard NTSC colour subcarrier phasors are shown in Fig.12,
with respect to the colour burst (reference) at 180°.
Note how the blue phasor’s amplitude is slightly lower than the red and
green, which explains why they used
a 15kW resistor rather than 10kW on
the blue colour carrier gate’s output.
The blue carrier phase is nearly 180°
delayed from the burst. To attain this
phase, Cromemco simply inverted the
burst signal using a NAND gate wired
as an inverter. This explains why the
blue bar (on the test pattern) looks just
a little purple, because there is a small
phase shift toward magenta.
With optimum settings of the red
and green phase controls (VR27 &
siliconchip.com.au
1000
siliconchip.com.au
CHEA3.BIN
CHEB3.BIN
COMPF.COM
COMPF.COM
4096 byte file
CMPF2.COM
CMPF2.COM
Vertical address flip
CMPF3.COM
CMPFB.COM
NNNN.BIN = 12880 byte
image file
512 byte Dazzler
compatible file
13FF
11FF
1600
1400
The 4x resolution mode
CHEC.BIN
CHED.BIN
COMPF.COM
COMPF.COM
CMPF2.COM
CMPF2.COM
CMPFC.COM
CMPFD.COM
15FF
17FF
DAZZLER MEMORY MAP FOR A 2K BYTE IMAGE
Address example starts at 1000h, register 0Eh, programmed with byte value 88h
Fig.14: due to the
pixel ordering
shown in Fig.13,
and the way the
image was broken
up into quadrants,
it took three
stages to convert
the contents of a
.BMP file into data
suitable for display
in the Dazzler’s
monochrome mode.
►
In this mode, each byte of the image
memory file in RAM controls eight
pixels, with the bits turning the pixel
either on or off (ie, monochrome). The
lower four bits of output port 0Fh are
used to control the intensity and the
selected R, G & B colours for all pixels, in any combination.
With 2048 memory bytes, there are
16,384 pixels accounted for in a 128
x 128 pixel array, and the pixels are
three CRT beam scanning lines tall.
Compare this to colour mode, where
each pixel covers six scan lines; three
even and three odd.
I tried out the 4x resolution mode
with a still image. One complication is
that the image is divided at the hardware level into four 512 byte blocks,
where the addresses are not sequential.
So this required processing the image
in four blocks.
The other complication is the way
Cromemco organised one byte to represent four pixels vertically stacked,
not as a linear sequence customary in
other systems – see Fig.13.
I started with a 128 x 128 pixel .BMP
monochrome high-contrast image file
and cropped it into four separate 64 x
64 pixel files. I then stripped out the
54-byte leader of the .BMP file in a
hex editor. The .BMP has three bytes
to represent R, G & B, so the actual file
size is 12,288 bytes or 12kB (3 × 64 ×
64 bytes).
This was a manageable size to send
to the SOL-20 computer using the
serial port, from TeraTerm on the PC to
a CP/M program running on the SOL
called PCGET, then saved to the SOL’s
floppy disk drive.
I had previously written software
to move disk files to address 4000h in
RAM in the SOL, so I modified that.
I then wrote custom 8080 software to
1200
Fig.15: output port 0Eh is used to
turn the Dazzler’s output on and off,
and tell it where in the computer’s
memory to find the video data.
Because the top 7 bits of the 16-bit
address field are stored in the lower
7 bits of this register, setting the base
address is a bit confusing.
►
VR28), looking at the test pattern
on the colour monitor, I measured
the red phase delay as 292° (180° +
112°). Fig.12 shows that red should
be at 283° (180° + 103°), so it was
fairly close.
I measured the total delay for the
green carrier as 59° (180° + 112° +
127° - 360°), which is pretty close to
the 61° (241° - 180°) shown in Fig.12.
So the red colour is slightly shifted
(9°) towards yellow. Green is very
close, and blue (not adjustable) is
shifted approximately 13° (360° - 347°)
toward magenta.
Screen 13 (right): the Dazzler certainly was ‘revolutionary’, Comrade! This is my
monochrome test image shown on an amber VDU, which started as a .BMP file.
Fig.16: to expand on how the base address is set, in this example, a value of 81h
written to port 0Eh sets the base address to 200h (1 × 200), while a value of 82h
sets it to 400h (2 × 200).
strip out two out of every three bytes,
giving a 4096-byte image. It also had
to reorder the pixel order, as .BMP
starts at lower left and moves to the
right then up, while the Dazzler needs
data that begins at upper left and ends
at lower right.
I also had to ‘swizzle’ the image
blocks to get them into the right
addresses. Fig.14 shows where the
Australia’s electronics magazine
data needed to be placed in memory, and the three separate pieces of
code I used to achieve this from the
.BMP file data.
Initially, I was perplexed by the
instructions to set the starting address
of the image in memory using the register (output port) assignments shown
in the manual. This is because the bits
they refer to in their output port have a
September 2021 35
The Dazzler mounted into a SOL-20 computer with external 5.25in drives, and running the CP/M (Control Program/
Monitor) operating system.
one-bit offset with respect to the computer’s actual address lines. The best
way to explain this is by looking at
Fig.15, reproduced from the manual.
The MSB here has no counterpart as
part of a memory address; it is purely
to turn the Dazzler on and off. This
means that if you load say 81h into
this location, that turns the Dazzler
on and tells us that the video data
starts at address 200h, not 100h. That’s
because the lowest bit in this register
is A9, not A8 as you might expect (as
elaborated in Fig.16).
So this short machine language
program:
3E 88 D3 0E 3E 6F D3 0F C3 04
C0
... loads 88h into output port 0Eh,
36
Silicon Chip
setting the image start address to
1000h. The 6F value loaded into output port 0Fh sets the Dazzler to the
monochrome resolution 4x mode.
The image I had stored in RAM
appeared at the Dazzler’s output, as
shown in Screen 13 (on an amber
monochrome computer VDU). Since
the Dazzler was ‘revolutionary’ when
it came out, I thought the image was
an appropriate choice.
The 4x resolution mode can also be
a colour mode, with the proviso that
all pixels switched on are the same
colour (any of the 14 available, not
including black).
Summary
The Dazzler was an astonishing
Australia’s electronics magazine
creation at the time, and in my opinion, still is. It was designed to bring
colour graphics into the world of home
computer users who had S-100 computers in the mid-1970s.
The Dazzler also found use generating NTSC colour graphics for the
television industry, and provided a
way to display images derived from
early solid-state digital cameras like
the Cyclops.
The boards’ cost was kept down
due to them not having onboard video
RAM, instead using the RAM already
present in the host computer.
You can find some more detail on
the Dazzler at:
siliconchip.com.au/link/abar
https://w.wiki/3nac
SC
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These two Dazzler boards have been almost completely assembled. The
jumper wires between the J1-J7 points still need to be run. Once both boards
are installed in the computer, they are joined by the ribbon cable with IDC
connectors shown at upper right.
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The blank boards. Creating these was a lot of work, as the scanned images from
the Dazzler manual needed much cleaning up before they could be used for
manufacturing.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
SILICON
CHIP
September 2021 37
Part 1: by Nicholas Vinen & Tim Blythman
Touchscreen & Remote Digital
Preamp with Tone Controls
This preamp has the
best of both worlds: the benefits
of digital control such as an intuitive
touchscreen interface, presets and remote control, along
with the low noise and distortion of an analog design. It achieves that
by using classic Baxandall style volume and tone control circuitry with op amps,
incorporating high-quality digital potentiometers to provide the adjustments.
M
ost of our remote-controlled
preamplifiers to date have used
motorised potentiometers. While these
have many benefits, such as low noise
and distortion, and the ability to simply turn the knob if you are close to
the preamp, they are quite expensive
and can be hard to obtain. They also
can fail and wear out.
Digital volume control ICs are an
attractive alternative, but there have
only been a few of these with performance that we would call hifi, and
most of those have been discontinued.
They also can be pretty expensive and
difficult to obtain.
And since they only adjust the
audio level, we need separate arrangements for input switching (as any
self-respecting preamp needs at least
a few pairs of inputs) and tone controls. Those are a frequently requested
feature for preamps, and we agree
that they can be handy. For example,
they can compensate for loudspeaker
shortcomings, such as a lack of bass
or treble, or too much treble.
So any digital preamp we came up
with would have to tick the following boxes:
1) Decently low distortion and noise
(at least CD quality, and ideally
better)
2) Tone controls (ideally with at
least three bands for flexibility)
38
Silicon Chip
3) A wide volume control range
operating in a logarithmic manner
4) Adjustable gain to suit a wide
range of signal sources
5) Infrared remote control
6) Input switching
7) Ideally, an intuitive and attractive
colour touchscreen interface for
direct control
We achieved 1) through 4) by
using two quad Analog Devices
AD8403ARZ10 digital potentiometer
ICs. While these are not especially
cheap at around $10 each, they are still
quite reasonably priced compared to
hifi-quality volume control chips. The
eight potentiometers they include let
us adjust the volume, bass, mid and
treble levels in both channels using
just two chips.
These devices have impressive specifications, borne out by our testing,
with a rated THD+N figure of 0.003%
at 1V RMS/1kHz (they tested considerably better than that), a -3dB bandwidth of 600kHz and an impressively
low noise level of 9nV per √Hz. So
they are well suited to audio signal
processing tasks.
Because each chip has all four
potentiometers needed for a channel,
the digital pot and its associated op
amps are laid out all in one area, simplifying the PCB design and minimising crosstalk between channels.
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The input switching is handled
by three telecom style relays, which
has worked well for us in the past, as
these mechanical devices have minimal impact on signal quality.
Finally, the control interface is handled by a Micromite LCD BackPack
with either a 2.8-inch, 320x240 or
3.5-inch, 480x320 colour touchscreen.
This provides many benefits such as a
nice clear volume readout when you
adjust it via the remote, the ability to
show the actual frequency response for
any given tone control setting, loading/
saving presets – the whole nine yards.
It’s just the go for a modern preamplifier or amplifier, without compromising the sound quality.
Besides the BackPack, which would
generally mount on the unit’s front
panel (along with the IR receiver), all
this circuitry is packed onto a modestly-sized PCB at 206 x 53mm. It has
four pairs of onboard RCA inputs, so
that it can be mounted at the back of
the unit.
It can be powered from a separate
AC or split DC supply or an internal transformer with suitable windings. That includes transformers with
high-voltage windings to power amplifier modules, and low-voltage secondaries for preamps like this one.
For standalone use, the power
input can be an onboard socket on the
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back, near the inputs, along with the
optional rear panel pre-outs. These are
in parallel with a pair of internal RCA
sockets, which can feed the preamp’s
output signals to a couple of internal
amplifier modules, making a complete
preamp/amplifier combination.
Performance
The performance of the preamp is
summarised in Figs.1-4. Fig.1 shows a
plot of total harmonic distortion plus
noise (THD+N) against frequency for
an input signal level of 1.5V RMS and
an output level of 3V RMS. As the
final stage has a gain of two times, this
means that the volume control section
is set for unity gain.
The 20Hz-22kHz bandwidth plot
(in cyan) gives the best indication of
audible performance. This shows a
total harmonic distortion level of less
than 0.001% from around 35Hz up
to 2.3kHz. The distortion level rises
above 1kHz, with the dashed line
showing how the curve would look
if the harmonics weren’t rolled off at
the upper end by the bandpass filter.
As a good CD player is generally
expected to have a THD+N figure of
less than 0.0018% at 1kHz, we’d say
that this preamp exceeds CD quality.
That’s also indicated by its signal-tonoise ratio of over 100dB, with CDs
being limited to 96dB by their 16-bit
sampling resolution.
Fig.2 shows how THD+N varies
with signal level for some typical gain
settings. The rise in distortion at the
low end is due to noise being a larger
component of the signal for small signals, while the rapid rise at the upper
end is where the preamp has run out
of headroom and has started clipping.
The best performance is around 2V
RMS, a typical level for many playback systems such as CD, DVD & Bluray players.
Fig.3 shows how the channel separation varies with frequency. We consider this an excellent result, with
worst-case crosstalk of -75dB at 20kHz.
Fig.4 shows the preamp’s frequency
response with the controls set flat,
which only varies by about 0.5dB
across the whole audio spectrum, rolling off slightly towards the 20Hz end.
It also shows plots with the bass/
mid/treble controls set to their
extremes individually. This should
give you an idea of the adjustment
range that the preamp permits. Of
course, you would usually not use the
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Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
Four input stereo preamp with a colour touchscreen and remote control
Bass, mid & treble adjustments with presets, plus volume control
Better than CD quality
Four external stereo inputs (one active at any time)
Two stereo outputs, one internal and one external
Optional loudness control automatically adjusts tone with volume
Specifications
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
THD+N: typically less than 0.001%; see Fig.1
Signal-to-noise ratio: typically around 104dB with respect to 2V RMS input
Frequency response: 20Hz-20kHz +0,-0.5dB
Channel separation: >75dB, 20Hz-20kHz
Signal handling: 0.1-2.5V RMS
Volume control range: approximately 78dB
Gain range: -50dB to +27.6dB (0.003 times to 24 times)
Input impedance: 100kW || 470pF
Bass tone control: ±12.5dB centred around 20Hz (±11.5dB <at> 50Hz, ±8.5dB
<at> 100Hz)
Midrange tone control: ±11dB centred around 440Hz (±7.5dB <at> 200Hz &
1kHz)
Treble tone control: ±11.5dB centred around about 20kHz (±10.5dB <at>
10kHz, ±9dB <at> 5kHz)
Power supply: 12-15V AC, 24-30V AC CT or ±15V DC
Current draw: typically around 200mA with touchscreen on and <50mA
with it off
Fig.1: harmonic
distortion plus noise
plotted against frequency
for two different analyser
bandwidths. The blue
plot with the dashed
line is the most realistic
representation of the
performance, which
we think is meritable.
1.5V RMS gives the best
performance, but it’s still
pretty good at around
1V RMS full-scale, and
the unit can handle over
2.5V RMS at its inputs
before clipping.
Fig.2: a plot of distortion
versus signal level for a
1kHz tone, confirming
that distortion rises at
lower signal levels due
to noise. This also shows
the onset of clipping for
high signal levels, but
note that there are two
reasons for clipping;
either the input signal
rises above 2.5V RMS
(as is the case with lower
gain settings), or the
output runs into clipping
at about 4V RMS (higher
gain settings).
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September 2021 39
Fig.3: the channel
separation of the
preamp is excellent,
with very little of one
channel leaking into
the other channel,
especially below 5kHz.
The input separation is
even better, exceeding
100dB in most cases.
Fig.4: with all the
tone settings at 0, the
preamp’s frequency
response is very flat,
dropping by only about
0.5dB at 20Hz. The other
curves show the result
of each tone control
being individually set
to maximum boost or
cut. They indicate how
much adjustment you
can make and over what
frequency range each
band operates.
Fig.5: there is a bit of
unavoidable interaction
between the controls
if you make large
adjustments in more
than one band. The
cyan, red and green
curves demonstrate this.
The other three curves
show the results of much
subtler simultaneous
bass and treble boost
settings of various
magnitudes. You can
see from those curves
that there is essentially
no interaction at those
levels.
controls at their extremes, as shown
in that plot.
Fig.5 shows some more realistic
tone control settings (mauve, orange
& blue) along with some examples of
what happens if you set multiple controls to their maximum extents (red,
green & cyan).
Note how there is some interaction
between the controls. For example, the
treble boost is reduced when a lot of
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bass or mid boost is introduced. These
are somewhat odd situations, though,
since you would typically be better off
with bass cut instead of using a lot of
mid/treble boost, and mid cut instead
of a lot of bass/treble boost.
Circuit details
The Digital Preamp circuit is shown
in Fig.6. Signals are fed into one of
four pairs of RCA sockets, CON1A-D
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and CON2A-D. These have individual
100kW termination resistors to prevent
signals from deselected devices from
floating and causing a thump when
switching inputs.
These go to the contacts of a pair of
DPDT relays which narrow the signals
down to two pairs, and these then go
to a third DPDT relay which makes the
final selection of which stereo signal
reaches the RF filter.
The RF filter comprises a 100W
series resistor, a ferrite bead and a
470pF capacitor to ground for each
channel. This RC low-pass filter has a
-3dB point of 3.4MHz, while the ferrite
bead helps to eliminate much higher
frequency signals which could otherwise be rectified by the following buffer stage, inducing unwanted signals
into the audio. 1kW stopper resistors
further help eliminate RF coupling and
also protect op amp IC1 from damage
in case a high amplitude signal (or
static discharge) is fed into one of the
input connectors.
Op amp IC1 buffers the selected
stereo signal, and its outputs are ACcoupled to the gain control section
via 10µF capacitors. Note that the
input side of IC1 is not AC-coupled;
it is expected that signals applied to
the preamp are reasonably close to
0V DC bias.
The signals from the outputs of IC1
are DC-biased to +2.75V and clamped
to be within the range -0.3V to +5.8V.
This is done by a pair of schottky
small-signal diodes for each channel,
connected to ground and a +5.5V rail.
This +5.5V rail is also used to power
the quad digital pot ICs, IC6 & IC7. This
is their maximum recommended supply voltage (the absolute maximum is
+8V). We have done this so it can handle the maximum expected RMS signal
voltage from a signal source like a Bluray player, which is usually around
2.2-2.3V RMS.
To achieve this, we’ve had to slightly
attenuate the signals being fed to the
digital pots, using 2.2kW fixed series
resistors connected to pin 3 of the two
digital pot ICs. These combine with
the digital pots’ 10kW track resistance
to reduce the input signals by 18%.
So a 2.3V RMS signal is diminished
to 1.89V RMS, just within the 1.94V
RMS capabilities of the digital pots
running from 5.5V.
This is easily compensated for by
adding extra gain in the volume control
stage. Those 2.2kW resistors also limit
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the current that op amp IC1a needs to
deliver if the signal is clipped by diodes
D1-D4. IC1a runs from ±12V regulated
rails for best performance, so its maximum output swing is about ±10.5V,
enough to damage the digital pots without current limiting and clamping.
Volume control
The Baxandall volume control for
the left channel consists of dual op
amp IC2 plus digital potentiometer
#2 within IC6. Similarly, for the right
channel, it is op amp IC4 and digital
pot #2 in IC7.
Op amps IC2a & IC4a are buffers,
while IC2b & IC4b are configured as
inverting amplifiers with fixed gains
of 14.7 times. The digital pots are
then connected within the feedback
loop between the output of IC2b/
IC4b and the input of IC2a/IC4a. As a
result, IC2a/IC4a are fed a signal voltage between that of the input signal
and the inverted and amplified output signal.
The net result of this is, with the digital pot ‘wiper’ (pin 4) all the way at
the input (A) end of the ‘track’, the full
input signal is applied to the pair of
op amps, so the maximum gain of 14.7
times occurs (actually about 12 times
or +21.6dB when you consider the
attenuation due to the 2.2kW resistors).
As the ‘wiper’ moves towards the
output (B) end of the ‘track’, the gain
reduces logarithmically, eventually
to almost zero. The minimum gain
(actually attenuation) is limited only
by the digital pots’ wiper resistances
of around 50-100W. Our tests show
that the lowest gain setting gives about
1.5% of the input signal at the outputs
of the volume control section, equivalent to -56dB.
This means that with the volume
control at zero, you will still get a little
sound out of the preamp, but it will be
very quiet. To fully mute the audio, the
digital pots have a shutdown feature
that disconnects each pot’s ‘A’ terminal entirely. This is where our input
signal connects; hence, we can fully
mute the outputs if desired.
The output signals from IC2b and
IC4b are again clamped to the supply rails by pairs of schottky smallsignal diodes, protecting the digital
pots from damage if you set the gain
too high. The op amps limit the current to around 50mA, so neither the
diodes nor the op amp will be damaged during clipping. As the signal
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Parts List – Touchscreen Digital Preamp
1 Micromite LCD BackPack programmed with 0110319A.HEX (2.8in display)
or 0110319B.HEX (3.5in display) [SC3321, SC4237 or SC5082]
1 double-sided PCB coded 01103191, 206 x 53mm
2 double-sided PCBs coded 01103192, 12.5 x 45.5mm
1 universal IR remote control (optional) [Jaycar XC3718 / Altronics A1012A]
3 EA2-12 DPDT 12V DC coil telecom relays (RLY1-RLY3)
2 500W mini horizontal trimpots (VR1,VR2)
2 small slip-on ferrite beads (FB1, FB2)
3 2-pin headers with shorting blocks (LK1-LK3)
2 quad right-angle RCA socket assemblies (CON1, CON2) [Altronics P0214]
1 dual vertical right-angle RCA socket pair (CON3) [Altronics P0212]
1 white vertical PCB-mount RCA socket (CON4) [Altronics P0131]
1 red vertical PCB-mount RCA socket (CON5) [Altronics P0132]
1 3-way mini screw terminal block, 5.08mm pitch (CON6)
1 PCB-mount barrel socket (optional) (CON7)
1 18-pin header (CON8)
2 18-pin socket strips
2 16-pin box headers
2 16-pin IDC sockets
1 length of 16-way ribbon cable to suit installation
1 3-pin infrared receiver (IRR1)
1 12-15V AC plugpack/transformer or 24-30V AC centre-tapped transformer
with associated wiring, fuse, mains plug etc (to power preamp board)
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw, washer and nut (for mounting REG4)
3 tapped spacers plus 6 machine screws (length to suit installation)
Semiconductors
5 LM833 low-noise dual op amps (IC1-IC5)
2 AD8403ARZ10 quad digital potentiometer chips, SOIC-24 (IC6, IC7)
[SC5912, Digi-Key, Mouser, RS]
1 78L12 +12V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
1 79L12 -12V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG2)
1 LM317L 100mA adjustable linear regulator, TO-92 (REG3)
1 7805 +5V 1A linear regulator, TO-220 (REG4)
3 PN200 or equivalent PNP transistors (Q1-Q3)
3 PN100 or equivalent NPN transistors (Q5-Q7)
1 through-hole LED (LED1; 3mm or 5mm, any colour)
1 5.6V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 W04M bridge rectifier (BR1)
12 BAT42 schottky small-signal diodes (D1-D12)
3 1N4148 silicon small-signal diodes (D13-D15)
Capacitors
2 1000μF 25V electrolytic
3 220μF 16V electrolytic
3 100μF 16V electrolytic
2 47μF 16V electrolytic
2 22μF 16V electrolytic
3 10μF 16V electrolytic
2 1μF 63V MKT
2 220nF 63V MKT
4 150nF 63V MKT
5 100nF 63V MKT
2 33nF 63V MKT
2 470pF ceramic disc
4 100pF C0G/NP0 ceramic disc
Resistors (all 1% ¼W axial metal film unless otherwise stated)
11 100kW
6 2.2kW
1 110W
6 47kW
13 1kW
5 100W
2 22kW
1 910W
2 10W 1W 5% resistors OR
2 10kW
11 680W
4 4.7W 1W 5% (see text)
2 4.7kW
1 560W
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 41
Fig.6: the Digital Remote Controlled Preamp circuit, plus its attached infrared receiver. Besides those
components, everything is mounted on one board, which mounts on a small board that plugs into the
Micromite LCD BackPack. The components shown in red could be installed but we recommend you
leave them off, as our testing shows that they don’t provide any benefits.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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September 2021 43
This photo shows the completed preamp board without the
LCD BackPack. We have fitted RLY4 and associated components as
it is a prototype; we expect most constructors will leave these off and link
out RLY4, as explained next month in the Construction section. A small adaptor board
(shown inset) converts the SIL header to a DIL type more easily connected to a ribbon cable, and
this same board at the other end also provides somewhere to mount the IR receiver and its supply filter
components (shown adjacent).
is AC-coupled, this will only ever be
intermittent anyway.
Tone control
This output signal is AC-coupled to
the tone control section via a pair of
47µF capacitors.
The tone control section is the classic Baxandall feedback-based tone
control using op amp IC3a for the left
channel and IC5a for the right channel. Digital pots #1, #3 and #4 are connected in the negative feedback loops
of these op amps, with capacitors connected such that each controls the
amount of feedback over a particular
range of frequencies.
With these pots all centred, the tone
control section has virtually no effect
on the signal, basically just acting as
an amplifier with a gain of -1. When
the pot wipers move off-centre in one
direction, signal components in that
frequency range are amplified, producing bass, midrange or treble boost.
When they move in the opposite direction, signals in those frequency ranges
are attenuated (cut) instead.
As the tone control stage is inverting, and the volume control stage is
too, the phase of signals fed through
the preamp is maintained. Since the
outputs of op amps IC3a and IC5a are
fed back to the digital pot ICs, they
once again are clamped to the supply rails using schottky diodes. The
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Silicon Chip
100pF capacitors directly connecting
the outputs to the inverting inputs
ensure stability.
Relay RLY4 is the bypass relay.
When it is energised, the inverting
inputs of op amps IC3a & IC5a are no
longer connected to the digital pots.
They are instead connected to the centre taps of pairs of 4.7kW resistors connecting from the output of the volume
control stage to the output of the tone
control stage. This configures these
two op amps as fixed signal inverters.
The idea behind this is to eliminate
any distortion or noise that might be
introduced by the digital pots or the
associated passive components when
a flat response is desired. In practice,
the performance of the tone control
stage is good enough that this is not
necessary.
While we have left provision for
RLY4 and its associated components
on the board (there would be no real
benefit to modifying it to remove
them), we don’t think the extra cost
and complexity is justified. So our
parts list and construction details (to
come next month) will omit these
components.
The output signals from the tone
control stages are AC-coupled again, to
remove the DC bias, then amplified by
a factor of two by op amps IC3b & IC5b.
This allows the output amplitude to be
above 1.9V RMS if desired, up to about
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3.8V RMS before clipping. The 100W
series resistors prevent cable capacitance from affecting those gain stages.
The two outputs are connected
in parallel; one is available at the
rear panel (if those connectors are
installed). The other pair consists
of vertical connectors on the board,
more suited for internal connections
to amplifier modules. It should be possible to use both at once, given that the
output impedance is relatively low.
This could be the case in an integrated
amplifier that provides pre-out signals.
Control by Micromite
The digital pots are controlled using
an SPI serial bus, with one CS (chip
select) line each, plus active-low common reset (RS) and shutdown (SHDN)
lines. That’s a total of seven digital
lines required to control both ICs.
We also have four relays to control.
An NPN transistor drives each relay
coil with a back-EMF clamping diode.
These relays have 12V DC coils, and
somewhat unusually, are powered
from the -12V rail. This is because the
+5.5V rail is derived from the +12V
rail, so we are driving the relays from
the negative rail to better balance out
the current draw.
This means that all the relay coil
positives are connected to GND, and
the negative ends are switched to -12V.
Some clamp diodes connect to GND
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and some to +12V depending on PCB
routing convenience; either way, they
will still absorb back-EMF spikes and
prevent damage to the transistors on
switch-off.
PNP transistors Q1-Q4 level shift the
0-3.3V digital relay control signals to
allow the NPN transistors with their
emitters connected to the -12V rails to
be switched normally. So the relays
activate when the associated control
line is pulled down to 0V, and are off
if that control line is at +3.3V or floating (high-impedance).
These 11 total control lines are
wired back to SIL header CON8, in
positions suitable for being directly
wired to the I/O header on a Micromite LCD BackPack module.
There are two additional connections: one to allow the BackPack to illuminate or flash the onboard LED (LED1)
in response to remote control commands and to indicate that power is on
etc. This LED could also be duplicated
on the front panel, if desired, along with
a series current-limiting resistor. The
other connection is for infrared reception, at pin 8 of the I/O header.
While the IR receiver and its supply RC filter are shown on the circuit
diagram, they are mounted on a small
board attached to the BackPack, as the
receiver needs to be mounted behind
a hole on the front panel of the unit.
Power supply
The power supply is pretty basic;
AC is applied to either barrel socket
CON7 or terminal block CON6. If a
centre-tapped transformer is used, this
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would typically be wired to CON6,
with the tap to the middle terminal.
DC split rails can also be fed to CON6.
If AC is applied, this is rectified by
bridge rectifier BR1 and filtered by a
pair of 1000µF capacitors.
The pulsating DC across these
capacitors is then regulated to smooth
±12V DC rails by REG1 and REG2.
We have chosen 12V rather than the
commonly-seen 15V because the performance is much the same, and we
don’t need the extra signal swing given
the 5.5V limitation of the digital pots.
This also provides more headroom for
regulation.
The +12V rail is dropped to +5.5V
using adjustable regulator REG3. This
is adjustable so that it can be set to
precisely +5.5V; to be safe, we don’t
want to exceed the maximum recommended supply voltage for IC6 or IC7
(even though the absolute maximum
rating is much higher). A series fixed
resistor is provided to limit the adjustment range.
Zener diode ZD1 acts as a safety so
that if the output of REG3 is much too
high for some reason, it should conduct and prevent damage to IC6 & IC7.
The +2.75V mid-supply rail is derived
from the +5.5V rail using a resistive
divider and trimmed using VR2 so that
signal clipping to the supply rails is
symmetrical.
It’s filtered using a 220µF capacitor
so that the source impedance seen by
the rest of the circuit is low, preventing unwanted crosstalk etc.
Links LK1-LK3 are provided for
testing because IC6 and IC7 are SMDs.
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They can be left out while the supply voltages are checked, and IC6,
IC7 and the op amps will not receive
power. Once the supply voltages have
been verified as correct, they can be
inserted, and the unit powered back
up.
Finally, regulator REG4 provides a
5V DC supply to run the BackPack control circuitry. Two series 10W 1W resistors have been provided to prevent
this regulator from overheating due
to the relatively high current required
by the BackPack, and the large difference in the input (12V) and output
(5V) voltages.
This works, although these resistors
run fairly hot if you have the BackPack
LCD backlight turned up to a high
brightness setting. If you find this to
be a problem, there isn’t room to fit a
heatsink to REG4, but you could add
more dropper resistors. For example,
four 4.7W 1W resistors mounted vertically instead of horizontally would
spread out the heat load.
Software
As the control module is a Micromite, the software is written in BASIC
(MMBasic, to be exact). The control
program for the Digital Preamp is
quite small compared to other Micromite-based projects. This is mainly
due to the relatively simple functions
it provides, with the hardware doing
most of the work.
The Micromite processor controls
the four relays and the two digital
potentiometer ICs, which have four
potentiometers each, for a total of
eight. The Micromite also commands
the LED and receives signals from the
infrared receiver.
While the MMBasic code provides
an interrupt that is triggered when an
IR code is received, we simply use
this to set a flag, as other operations
could be occurring when the interrupt
is triggered. The received command is
processed later, when the Micromite
would otherwise be idle.
We think that many constructors
will want to use the 2.8-inch touchscreen (eg, as used in the original
BackPack or BackPack V2) because it
will be a better fit on the front panel
of many cases suitable for a preamp.
However, you can use the Micromite LCD BackPack V3 with its higherresolution, larger 3.5-inch touchscreen
if you have room. The software has
been designed so that it can use either
September 2021 45
Screen 1: the main screen
has buttons to quickly
load one of six presets,
change the volume, mute
the output or go to one
of two settings screens
(presets and tone/EQ
adjustments).
Screen 2: the tone control/
equaliser (EQ) adjustment
screen. Here you can
set the bass/mid/treble
boost/cut values as well
as a volume adjustment
(PRE+/-), and it shows
you an approximation of
the resulting frequency
response below. You
can also switch between
the inputs, adjust the
loudness control, reset the
settings or store them to
the current preset.
Screen 3: in the preset
screen, you can switch
between the six presets,
give them names, view
their settings and adjust
the backlight brightnesses
and timeout.
Screen 4: if you decide to
name one of the presets,
you will be presented
with this basic QWERTY
keyboard so you can enter
a new name or change the
existing one.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
screen with just minor changes to the
code, and we will provide both versions (BASIC code and HEX files) in
the download package for this project.
User interface
As with other projects using the
Micromite BackPacks, several different screens are provided for various
features. The MAIN screen offers the
features that will be used most often,
while two other screens allow the settings to be customised.
The MAIN screen (Screen 1) has six
buttons corresponding to six presets.
While there are only four inputs, some
readers might have these connected
to other devices with more inputs,
so multiple presets can use the same
input to provide various custom tone
profiles for each input. You might
also want different sound profiles for
the same device (eg, to suit movies or
music playback).
If one of the presets is selected, its
button is highlighted; the MUTE button is also highlighted when active.
Three more buttons provide MUTE,
VOLUME UP and VOLUME DOWN
functions. These nine buttons correspond one-to-one to the functions that
are available via the IR remote control.
The volume level is also displayed
numerically.
At the top right is a much smaller
button marked SAVE. Pressing this
will cause the current settings to be
saved to flash memory if they have
changed. There is also an automatic
timed save feature. To help conserve
flash memory longevity, this defaults
to 10 minutes (of unsaved changes),
but you can alter that.
The SAVE button is red if there are
any unsaved changes; otherwise, it is
grey. Below the SAVE button is a timer
showing the number of seconds before
the screen changes to a low-brightness
idle mode.
Two more buttons provide access to
the settings. The EQ SETTINGS screen
(Screen 2) is used to set the tone controls and input selection. This screen
also shows an approximate frequency
response graph of the current settings.
The graph is based on tests conducted with our prototype, so it will
not reflect variances due to component
tolerances. The response calculation
assumes that the frequency response
of each stage is linear, which does not
apply at the extreme ends of the potentiometer travel.
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 5: once you press
the Enter (Ent) key, it
confirms the new name
you have typed for the
preset.
The graph is characterised by arrays
of values which provide a value for
the midpoint response and another
value for the difference per potentiometer step at ten different frequencies. These are the values you would
need to change if you wanted to characterise your device precisely. The
default values should be acceptable
for most users.
The SETTINGS (Screen 3) screen
allows the currently set tone controls
to be allocated to a preset and for these
presets to be renamed. The parameters for each preset are displayed next
to their buttons. These are shown in
raw digital potentiometer steps from
-127 to +127, with zero denoting the
midpoint.
Each of the six presets can be
renamed by pressing the corresponding RENAME button. This brings up
a keypad allowing capital letters and
numbers to be entered (Screen 4). To
make good use of the available space,
only a limited set of keys is provided.
Backspace, Enter and Cancel buttons are also provided. Upon pressing Enter, the new name is displayed
briefly (Screen 5).
Finally, there are buttons to allow
for numeric entry of three backlight
settings (normal intensity, idle intensity and idle timeout) and the save
timeout setting. Pressing the corresponding button displays a numeric
keypad for entering a new value, with
the prompt containing a range for valid
values (Screen 6).
Entering a value also displays a brief
popup indicating the entered value
(Screen 7) or noting an error if an
entered number is out of range (Screen
8). For simplicity, only positive integer values are supported.
The normal backlight values range
from 1-100%, while the idle backlight
extends the lower limit to 0%, blanking the display completely. This is
handy if you don’t wish the display to
interfere with, for example, viewing a
movie in a dark room.
The idle backlight is only activated
on the MAIN screen, so it does not
interfere with changing the settings.
A touch anywhere on the screen will
awaken it; you can use the title area at
the top of the screen to be sure of not
changing any parameters.
We’ll explain the particulars of
setup and operation next month after
going over the construction and testing details.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 6: this simpler
numeric keypad is used to
enter backlight brightness
percentage values. There’s
one setting for when you
are actively using the
touchscreen, and another
dimmer setting after the
timeout. For best audio
performance, we suggest
using 0% (backlight off)
as the timeout value.
Screen 7: the confirmation
message that appears
when you have adjusted
one of the brightness
settings.
Screen 8: if you enter
an invalid value, an
error message will be
displayed.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 47
The IOT Cricket is a small, ultra-low-power
WiFi module designed for makers, scientists and
hobbyists. It can run for years from a pair of AA
cells. We were sent a sample to test and review.
Review:
IOT Cricket
by Tim Blythman
T
he IOT Cricket was created
by a UK company, Things On
Edge, based in Cambridge.
The IOT Cricket (IOT stands for
‘internet of things’) appears to be their
only product at this stage, but, as they
suggest, it is a versatile module. Things
On Edge also provides an online platform for the IOT Cricket to connect to.
At the time of writing, it is listed at
£16, which equates to about AU$29.
Free shipping is offered when purchasing three or more modules.
What makes the IOT Cricket
different?
The IOT Cricket is different to other
WiFi modules we’ve seen.
It’s designed to be used with sensors to report their state but it requires
virtually no programming. Most other
devices (typically) need to be programmed with high-level software
such as Python. However, with this
one there’s not much more to it than
plugging it in and away it goes.
This makes it an ideal add-on to
a wide variety of applications and
especially suits the “maker” market –
though we believe it will also find ready
acceptance amongst designers and
manufacturers, due to its simplicity.
It’s housed on a small PCB module
measuring 37.2mm by 16.4mm, and
most of its top surface is covered by a
folded metal shield, meaning the unit
is around 4mm thick.
According to the Things On Edge
website, it includes an ESP8266 processor running at 160MHz.
48
Silicon Chip
A notch in one corner of the shield
provides access to a minuscule tactile
switch and LED.
At one edge is a 6-way set of full
(through-hole) and castellated pads.
The reverse has 13 surface test pads,
six of which are arranged in a 2x3
grid, which we suspect is a programming header.
At the opposite end of the board is
a PCB antenna, similar to the antenna
seen on other ESP8266 modules.
Probably the most interesting aspect
of the IOT Cricket is the fact that it can
run for long periods on battery power;
the website claims years on a pair of
AA cells.
We haven’t had the time to test that
statement, but it certainly appears
feasible with aggressive
power saving features.
Those who have
worked with the ESP8266
would know that it is not
a very battery-friendly chip. So they
have used some tricks to achieve low
power consumption. Although Things
On Edge did not share the schematics
with us, the general operating concept
is straightforward.
The six-way edge header provides
connections for a battery, the negative
of which is also circuit ground.
One terminal provides a nominal 3.3V output when the device is
‘awake’, while the remaining pins
are digital inputs, with one capable
of measuring analog voltages.
With the typical supply being a
pair of AA cells, the regulator is of the
boost variety. The IOT Cricket claims
an input of 1V to 3.5V. Most of the
The IOT Cricket is
small and incorporates an
ESP8266 WiFi microcontroller,
a boost power regulator and a temperature sensor. Three I/O pins
provide digital and analog input options, and it can wake from an
external input or onboard real-time clock.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Screen1: the captive web portal
provides the ability to set up the
WiFi network. Once connected to the
internet, the IOT Cricket can upload
data and receive configuration and
firmware updates.
Screen2: the Info tab indicates that the
WiFi has been correctly configured,
and lists the unique serial number
and password needed to make use of
the Things On Edge MQTT (Message
Queuing Telemetry Transport) broker.
Screen3: the I/O port status can also
be monitored via the web portal;
this is handy for prototyping and
troubleshooting.
time, the ESP8266 on the IOT Cricket
is powered off. An RTC chip can be
configured to wake up the boost regulator at set intervals.
One of the I/O pins can also be configured to wake up the IOT Cricket, and
it also includes a temperature sensor.
This scheme is probably the best
way to get the most battery life out of
a circuit utilising an ESP8266, with
the proviso that it won’t be operating
most of the time.
It has a web configurator which
can be used to change WiFi settings.
Unlike many other ESP8266-based
devices, this one is not intended to be
programmed by the end-user in a lowlevel or high-level language.
Instead, the web configuration is
used to set how often the IOT Cricket
wakes up, what information it reports
and how it reports it.
It’s a very different philosophy from
other ESP8266-based products. Still,
Things On Edge also provides a web
portal which can work with MQTT
(Message Queuing Telemetry Transport) data, which means that it is
straightforward to set up something
that ‘just works’, without having to
worry about programming specifics.
As such, it’s well-suited as a sensor
node, reporting data, status or user
inputs back to another device as part
of a larger system.
to configure is the IOT Cricket’s connection to your WiFi network, using
the Binding tab as seen in Screen1,
which shows ‘CONNECTED’ if this is
successful.
The Info tab shows WiFi and device
information (seen in Screen2). In particular, you will need to note down
the serial number and password (SN
and PWD) to configure other things to
work with the IOT Cricket.
The Dashboard tab (Screen3) shows
the current sensor status. This could
be handy during the testing phase, to
check that your sensors are working
correctly.
The Config tab (Screen4) is used to
set up what inputs are monitored and
siliconchip.com.au
Setup process
The small button is used to enter
the configuration modes; a five
second press is used for initial configuration. After holding the button
for five seconds, the LED flashes at
around 5Hz and a ‘toe_device’ WiFi
network appears.
Connecting to this WiFi network
takes you to the captive portal webpage
(at IP address 192.168.4.1) to enter the
necessary information. The first thing
Features & specifications
Connectivity:
Supply voltage:
Protocols:
Configuration:
Inputs:
Processor:
Wake-up:
WiFi (b/g/n)
1-3.5V (boost regulator onboard)
HTTP and MQTT (free MQTT broker provided)
web portal
two digital, one analog (shared with digital pin),
one wake-up, temperature sensor
ESP8266 running at 160MHz
real-time clock (RTC) or digital input
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 49
where they are reported. These settings
will also be most critical to getting the
best battery life from the IOT Cricket.
We enabled most of the reports to run
some tests, and set the connectivity
to MQTT_TOE, which is Things On
Edge’s MQTT broker.
There are also options for a custom
MQTT broker (which could be on the
internet or a local network) or communicating using HTTP GET or POST
methods, again connecting to either a
remote or local HTTP server.
Clicking the power icon at top right
exits configuration and starts the IOT
Cricket running with its current application settings.
We enabled all sensors for our initial
tests and set the RTC to wake the IOT
Cricket up every 10 seconds. These
settings are certainly not optimal for
power consumption, but made it easy
to check that everything was working
correctly.
MQTT
MQTT stands for Message Queuing
Telemetry Transport and is a protocol
that is well-suited to allowing small
IoT-type devices to communicate.
Devices publish messages to so-called
Screen5: this command, issued after installing the ‘mosquitto’ software, allows
the IOT Cricket’s messages to be checked and monitored. The ‘batt’ topic name
can be replaced with any of the others that are supported, or the ‘#’ MQTT
wildcard to see all messages.
‘topics’ to a broker, and other devices
can subscribe to specific topics. The
broker sends these messages when
they are received.
It is a fairly simple and lightweight
protocol, but supports authentication
via username/password combinations and security using TLS encryption. The client and broker model also
means that many small devices can
share information via a single broker.
Something like a PC or even a singleboard computer like a Raspberry Pi
is typically used as a broker, meaning
that a microcontroller can implement
the lightweight clients. Since one broker can manage many clients, this is
not hard to set up and allows many
clients to send, receive and share data.
Several open-source home automation projects can use MQTT, and there
are also mobile phone apps that can be
configured with custom dashboards to
send and receive messages. So MQTT
is a good choice for integrating with
these sort of home-made projects.
We set up mosquitto (https://
mosquitto.org/), an open-source,
cross-platform MQTT broker and client to test out the setup on our Windows computer, although this should
also work for Mac and Linux (including Raspberry Pi).
Running the command shown in
Screen5, we were able to monitor the
status updates from the IOT Cricket.
Note that the Things On Edge broker (at mqtt.thingsonedge.com) uses
the IOT Cricket’s serial number as its
username and password, and passes
all messages to a topic named for that
Screen4: configuring what and when the IOT
Cricket reports data is critical to how it will
operate and how much power it will use.
50
Silicon Chip
serial number and the property (after
the -t option).
Table1 is a good summary of what
sort of information the IOT Cricket can
capture and report. Note that the configuration will need to be set to allow
the necessary topics to be reported,
and those not used should be switched
off to minimise power consumption.
Using Things On Edge’s MQTT broker and an MQTT dashboard app could
be a simple way to monitor a remote
sensor using not much more hardware
than the IOT Cricket itself.
HTTP
The IOT Cricket can also communicate with a web server via HTTP
POST or GET methods. In either case,
the data is passed by tags which correspond to the topics listed above, but
preceded by a ‘#’. The IOT Cricket then
replaces the tag (eg, ‘#batt’) with its
value when the data is sent.
In the case of a POST, the payload
can be set to a specific string, which
can contain a combination of text and
tags. A GET method includes these at
the end of a URL, typically in the form
of parameters like “?battery=#batt”.
This allows custom content to
be created and passed to an existing server. When the HTTP server
receives a request, it can process the
payload or URL to decode the data.
The HTTP protocol is quite simple,
but it is limited to one endpoint (the
HTTP server).
Testing
We tried a few things out to put
Same-size illustration of the Cricket
(from above) showing its I/O pins
along with the main features.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
temp ......................
batt .......................
io2 ........................
io3 ........................
io1_wake_up ............
rtc_wake_up .............
hwc_wake_up ...........
hwc_wifi_enabled.......
device_sn ................
device_name ............
Temperature in °C to one decimal place
Battery voltage as raw ADC value (up to 8 bits)
Pin state as digital (0-1) or analog (0-255) value
Pin state as digital (0-1) value
Digital value (0-1) if IOT Cricket was woken by pin
Digital value (0-1) if IOT Cricket was woken by RTC
Count of wake-up events
Count of WiFi connections
Device serial number (string)
Device custom name (string)
Table1: these topics are available, and all MQTT data is communicated as
strings of ASCII characters.
the IOT Cricket through its paces. We
found that running it from breadboard
wiring was not always successful,
especially from a single 1.5V cell, but
we had no problem after we had soldered it directly to the battery holder.
The hardware notes for the IOT
Cricket indicate that the power supply
should be able to supply bursts up to
0.5A with a 3.3V supply, and 100mA
continuously.
We ran some tests with a small 0.1Ω
current shunt resistor and an oscilloscope. With a pair of AAA cells providing around 3V, we noted a current
spike of 600mA at start-up, causing
the battery voltage to sag near 2.5V;
see Scope1.
The nature of the boost module
means that a lower supply voltage
will necessarily require a higher current; a 1V supply might need to supply
peaks of around 2A at start-up, possibly causing the battery voltage to sag
even further.
So while the specifications indicate
that the IOT Cricket should be able to
run from a 1V supply, users should be
aware that this would be measured at
the unit itself and they should leave
some headroom for sagging due to
high current bursts. One option could
be to fit an external capacitor to help
with this.
Despite this, we found operation
on a pair of AAA cells to be flawless.
Given that two AAA cells are not much
larger than a single AA cell, we would
be inclined to power the unit in this
fashion. Average current consumption
while active was around 40mA, and
the typical uptime was six seconds.
This means that each update consumes around 67µAh and a 1000mAh
capacity battery (at 3V nominal) can
provide about 15,000 updates, assuming the quiescent power consumption
is negligible.
With this in mind, it is clear that the
siliconchip.com.au
IOT Cricket’s ability to operate for long
periods on battery power is dependent
on spending most of its time in the
low-power state, where presumably,
only the RTC is running. Current in
this state was under 1µA, according
to our multimeter.
The boost regulator inherently limits the upper voltage that can be supplied to the IOT Cricket, since it cannot
regulate down. The notes clearly state
that 3.5V is the upper battery voltage,
which aligns with the 3.6V upper limit
for the ESP8266.
This rules out rechargeable options
such as LiPo or even LiFePO cells without an external regulator, as they can
peak up to 4.2V when fully charged. A
pair of NiMH cells would be the logical alternative (giving around 2.4V to
2.8V), although we haven’t tested that.
We found that the temperature
reported by the IOT Cricket was
slightly higher than expected, although
we were testing with a fairly frequent
update rate, so the unit may have been
suffering from self-heating. We expect
that less frequent updates would ameliorate this issue.
Power saving
Apart from enabling and disabling individual inputs, there’s also
the option only to report changes if
the input changes; this is the “force
update” option seen in Screen3.
When this option is switched off, the
input states are only reported when a
change occurs.
If no data needs to be reported, then
the IOT Cricket can skip the power-hungry process of connecting to a
WiFi network and sending that data,
saving even more power.
Of course, this means that it’s more
difficult to tell when the IOT Cricket
is working correctly.
Resources
An online brochure, quick-start guide
and in-depth IOT Developer Guide are
available at www.thingsonedge.com/
documentation, while sample projects
and other articles are referenced from
the blog page at www.thingsonedge.
com/blog
The IOT Developer Guide also lists
several compatible sensors, including
buttons, light sensors, motion sensors
and even a microphone.
A minimal implementation of
the IOT Cricket requires no more
than a battery to power the unit.
It can be configured to report
temperature (using the integrated
temperature sensor) and battery
status as frequently or infrequently
as needed, down to once per day.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 51
Scope1: the green trace shows battery voltage while the
yellow trace is the voltage across a 0.1Ω
Ω current shunt
when the IOT Cricket is powering up. The 61mV spike on
the yellow trace is notable; it corresponds to 610mA of
current draw, while the battery voltage sags to 2.54V.
With the 3.3V output, it’s possible to power external sensors only when needed. However, they will need to have
modest current consumption to allow the boost regulator
to work correctly and prolong battery life.
We suggest reading the IOT Developer Guide to get the
most out of the IOT Cricket.
The IOT Cricket can also upgrade its own firmware from
the Things On Edge server. These options are available from
the captive web portal under the Upgrade tab.
There is also an option to load configuration settings from
the Things On Edge server. Enabling this feature could be
a good idea for a unit that has been remotely deployed.
Conclusion
The IOT Cricket has a very different philosophy to many
other similar devices we have seen, requiring practically no
programming and only some minimal setup, at the expense
of the greater options available with a more programmable alternative.
It appears to be well thought out and provides an interesting addition to the spectrum of IoT and remote-sensing
modules on the market.
The ESP8266 is a power-hungry part, and as expected, the
way the IOT Cricket gets around this is by shutting down for
long periods, although the option of RTC and I/O pins for
wake-up should cover most uses for this device.
It requires fairly high currents when it is starting and
awake, so careful design is needed to ensure that there are
no high-resistance paths in the battery circuit, as these will
be a major point of inefficiency. A supply closer to 3.5V
will provide headway above the minimum operating voltage, reducing the current needed for operation.
The provision of an internet connected MQTT broker to
complement the IOT Cricket is a handy feature, meaning
that its data can be accessed from just about anywhere by
multiple clients.
We don’t expect that the IOT Cricket will be useful for
all battery sensor applications, especially those that require
fast and frequent updates. But it is versatile, compact and
easy to use with many common sensors. The IOT Cricket is
SC
available for purchase from www.thingsonedge.com
52
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Portasol Super Pro Gas
Soldering Tool Kit
ONLY
3995
Cuts and strips wire. Can also cut
bolts with diameter M2.6, M3.0,
M3.5, M4.0 & M5.0. TH1828
$
LED Illuminated
Clamp Mount
Magnifier
NOW
149
$
SAVE $20
Adjustable tip temperature up to 580°C with equivalent power of between
25W and 125W. Includes 4 tips, cleaning sponge & case. TS1328
48
PIECES
ONLY
1395
$
EA
High Quality Cutters & Pliers
Side Cutters
TH1890
Long Nose Pliers TH1893
NOW
49
$
$
SAVE $5
Heavy Duty Terminal Crimper
Used for crimping lug/eye terminals.
Built-in rotating die. Hex crimper.
450mm long.TH1849
95
Solder Flux Paste
Non-flammable, non-corrosive. 56g
tub. NS3070
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Slotted, Phillips, U Type, Torx, Hex, Triangle,
Pentalobe, Tri-Wing, SQ of different sizes. S2
tool steel. Magnetic storage. TD2134
ONLY
595
$
ONLY
17
$
Screwdriver Set
ONLY
1295
$
EA
Must have for all electronic,
electrical & field service
applications. 175g.
Electronic Cleaning
Solvent NA1004
Contact Cleaner
Lubricant NA1012
15
PIECES
Slotted, Phillips, Torx, Hex of
different sizes. Colour-coded
handles. 105mm long. TD2069
50
Aerosol Service Aids
$
Micro Driver Set
ONLY
ONLY
2995
95
SAVE $3
11
$
NOW
24
95
Hand-Held Magnifying Glass
Powerful 3x magnification. ChipOn-Board LEDs. Lightweight. On/off
switch. QM3535
EA
GOOT Desolder Braid
1.5m long in 1.5, & 3.0mm width
available. NS3026-NS3028
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NEW
$
NEW
SAVE $30
DON'T PAY BIG $$$
FOR GREAT SOUND
Bluetooth Noise Cancelling
Headphones with Mic & Vol Control
Outstanding sound, comfortable adjustable
band, and in-built rechargeable battery. Includes
audio cable, 6.5mm adaptor, USB cable, double
3.5mm mono airplane adaptor and carry case.
AA2131
Maonocaster
All-in-One Podcast
Production Studio
ONLY
199
$
with Microphone
Great for podcasts and live streams. Easy to use. Features 2 mic
inputs, 4ch mixer, noise reduction, 8 sound effects, built-in battery
for portable use, and more. Includes mixer, mic, tripod, audio
leads, USB lead & XLR lead. AM4224
HDMI CONVERTERS
ONLY
2495
$
Maono
USB Gaming
Microphone
Wall Mount TV Brackets
with 180° Swivel
ONLY
2995
$
DisplayPort Plug to HDMI
Socket
Connect a computer or video source
with DisplayPort to a HDTV or monitor
with HDMI. WQ7422
ONLY
109
$
USB 3.0 to HDMI 1080p
Add another monitor or projector
to your PC via USB. Full HD 1080p.
XC4973
ONLY
6495
EA.
995
Earphones with Mic & Vol Control
Great sound. Take calls, play, pause, or
adjust volume. Black or white. 1.2m cable
long. AA2156-AA2158
NOW
SAVE $5
FROM
NEW
UHF Phased Array
TV Antenna
SPIRIT
LEVEL
Ideal for problem digital reception areas.
Receives either horizontal or vertical
signals. Built-in filter for next gen 4G/LTE
network signals. LT3154
ONLY
3495
$
Replacement
Remote Controls
Easy setup, no programming
required.
Suit Sony TV with NET-TV
AR1979
Suit LG TV with NET-TV
AR1978
Suit Samsung with NET-TV
AR1981
Suit Panasonic with NET-TV
AR1987
NOW
99
$
3-Way
Optical TOSLINK Splitter
Distribute your digital audio
connection to multiple sources such
as sound bars, headphones or your
home theatre system. USB powered.
AC1590
SAVE $20
VHF/UHF Masthead Amp
High gain with LTE/4G filters to compensate for
redistribution of broadcast frequencies. LT3251
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Belden Coax Cables
Quad shield.
RG6 75 Ohm.
Per Metre
WB2009 $1.95/m
Per 30m Roll
WB2014 $49.95
TV Flyleads
Coaxial Adaptors
PAL Plug to F-Type Socket
PA3653 $3.95
PAL Plug to PAL Socket - Right Angle
PA3679 $4.95
PA3653
FROM
1
EA.
8995
Safely hold flat panel TVs. Ultrathin design. VESA compliant.
23”-55” CW2868 $79.95
32”-70” CW2869 $99.95
$
ONLY
$
$
7995
Convert a HDMI source (e.g. Blu-ray
player) to a VGA display. AC1724
6995
$
Perfect for gaming, online meetings, podcasts or music
recordings. Mic gain control, premium cardioid condenser
mic and circuitry. Includes tripod and 1.5m lead. Plug & play,
works on Windows, MacOS® and PS4. AM4225
$
HDMI to VGA
ONLY
$ 95
/m
FROM
PA3679
3
$
95
RG-59U coaxial cable.
Plug to plug.
1.5m WV7350 $5.95
3.0m WV7351 $8.95
5.0m WV7352 $10.95
10m WV7354 $18.95
FROM
595
$
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for Rewards / membership T&Cs. INSTORE ONLY refers to company owned stores and not available to Resellers. Page 1: Club Offer: BONUS $100 Gift card with every purchase of Dual Filament 3D Printer (TL4410). Page 2: 10% OFF 1kg Flashforge Filament applies to all
colours (TL4269-TL4276). Page 6: Bundle Deal: 1 x UNO Board (XC4410) + 1 x 10-pce Sensor Kit (XC9201) for $79.90. Bundle Deal: 1 x UNO Board (XC4410) + 1 x 37-pce Deluxe Module Kit (XC4288) for $114.
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Great Tech at Great Jaycar Value!
OBD-II Engine
Code Reader
with Bluetooth®
NO LICENSE?
NO WORRIES!
We can program
your private
channels*
Ask us how.
NEW
Diagnose your cars problem. Plugs
into OBD-II port and transmits speed,
RPM, fuel consumption, etc via
Bluetooth® to your Smartphone.
PP2145
ONLY
479
$
69
$
NEW
ONLY
95
REVERSED IMAGE
REFLECTS CORRECTLY
ONTO WINDSCREEN
5W / 1W / 0.1W
SWITCHABLE
POWER
*ACMA license required
119 DEALERPROGRAMMABLE
PRIVATE CHANNELS
IP67 RATED
5 YEAR
WARRANTY
ONLY
1995
$
GME PRO 5W
UHF Handheld
Radio
ONLY
5995
$
Head Up Display Speedometer
with GPS &OBD-II Data
1m OBD-II Extension Cable
Male to female. Can be used to re-locate the
OBD-II port for easier accessibility. LA9037
Due Early September.
An almost unbreakable programmable
radio ideally suited for emergency
services, construction, farmers and fleet
services that require private, dependable
communication.
DC9080 TX6600
Keep your eyes on the road and read
important driving info such as speed,
from a head up display reflected off the
windscreen. OBD-II or GPS operation.
Auto brightness adjustment. LA9036
Replacement Power Supplies
at Great Jaycar Value
65W & 90W
Laptop Power Supplies
Ideal replacement for lost or broken laptop charger.
Compatible with most brands.
MP3321/MP3476
65W
6495
$
MP3321
Replacement Power Supply
for Masthead Amplifier
F-socket power injector.
14VDC<at>150mA. LT3256
1695
$
95
Li-ion Battery Chargers
USB powered. Available as a
single or dual cell charger.
MB3705-MB3707
SAVE $4
High power.
Supplied with 7 plugs.
12VDC 1.5A MP3486 $24.95
12VDC 2.5A MP3490 $29.95 (Shown)
FROM
MB3707
95
Switchmode
AC Adaptors
18650 Li-ion
Rechargeable Batteries
2600mAh
2600mAh Protected
2500mAh High Drain
Assorted Automotive Fuses
20 x 5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A & 30A fuses
included. 120 pieces. SF2142
FROM
SB2308 $16.95
SB2299 $21.95
SB2298 $25.95
FROM
95¢
18650
Lithium Battery
Brackets
Holds batteries together.
Supplied as a top and bottom
pair. Batteries not included.
Dual PH9256 95¢
Triple PH9258 $1.10 (Shown)
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1795
$
NOW
22
$
FROM
2495
$
14
$
150W Cup-Holder Inverter with USB
Powers 230VAC equipment like shavers, battery chargers and small laptops
from your car's 12V battery. 2 x USB ports (5VDC, 2.1A each). MI5128
ALSO AVAILABLE:
200W Inverter with 4 USB Outlets MI5131 NOW $79.95 SAVE $10
MP3476
2995
$
SAVE $10
90W
ONLY
NOW
4995
$
7995
$
Our best UHF Radio
Automotive Crimp Tool
with Connectors
Cut and strip wire and crimp
connectors. 80 pieces. TH1848
FROM
95¢
PH9202
PH9230
Battery Holders
Listed below are 2 of our best sellers.
Standard 9V Snap-On PH9230 95¢
2 x AA Side by Side
PH9202 $1.45
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Single Board Computers
BOARD
3995
$
NEW
XC4324
V1 BOARD + ACC
9995
$
XC4322
BUILT-IN MIC
& SPEAKER
Upgraded model! Now with built-in microphone
and speaker. Touch sensitive logo. Power
indicator. Includes micro:bit board, batteries,
battery holder and USB cable. XC4324
BUNDLE WITH
UNO & SAVE
ONLY
5995
BUNDLE DEAL
Buy a 10-pce Sensor
Kit & UNO Board
for ONLY $79.90
SAVE $10
10 Piece Sensor Kit
Learn to Plug, Sketch and Play with basic Grove
sensors, actuators and Arduino. All the modules are
pre-wired on the PCB, just connect your Arduino
Board (XC4410 $29.95 sold separately) to the Shield
and start your measurements! XC9201
ONLY
99
$
2995
$
BEST
SELLER
BUNDLE DEAL
Buy a 37-pce Deluxe
Kit & UNO Board
for ONLY $114
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8995
Includes commonly used sensors and modules
for Duinotech and Arduino®: joystick, magnetic,
temperature, IR, LED and more. Packaged in a clear
plastic organiser. XC4288
XC9001
BOARD + ACC
BOARD + ACC
XC3900
XC9010
7995
149
$
$
UNO R3
Development Board
Stackable design makes adding shields easy. Powered
by a USB-B cable or 7–14VDC. ATmega16u2 USB-Serial
chipset. 53Lx75Wx13Hmm. XC4410
Raspberry Pi 3B+
Development Board
Tiny credit card sized computer. Can run Raspbian or
Ubuntu Linux, Windows 10 IoT core, etc. Quad Core
1.4GHz CPU. Dual band Wi-Fi, & Bluetooth® 4.2/BLE.
1GB RAM.
XC9001
SAVE 10% ON COMPUTER MODULES
NOW
44
$
$
10% OFF
10% OFF
Long Range LoRa Shield
Transmit and receive data over long distance without a
GSM network. The perfect solution to your remote sensor
and control projects. External antenna included. XC4392
NOW
34
$
NOW
1795
95
USB to Serial
Adaptor Module
A mini-USB to 6-pin serial port module used to
communicate with Arduino boards and modules. Uses
the original FT232 chip with power, sending and receive
indicators. XC4464
NOW
1295
95
$
10% OFF
10% OFF
Ethernet
Expansion Module
A network shield that enables you to set your Arduino®
up as web server, control your project over your network
or even connect your Arduino® to world wide web.
XC4412
ISP Programmer for Arduino® and AVR
Unbrick, install or update your Arduino®- compatible
boards. XC4627
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FROM
3
$
37 Piece Deluxe Module Package
BOARD
$
XC4410
micro:bit V2 GO
Development Board
$
BOARD
45
Jiffy Boxes
Manufactured from ABS plastic.
Various sizes from 83x54x31mm
to 197x113x63mm available.
HB6005-HB6025
FROM
4
$
95
Prototyping Mini
Breadboards
170 Tie Points PB8817 $4.95
400 Tie Points PB8820 $7.95
FROM
550
$
PC Boards Vero Type Strip
Alphanumeric grid, pre-drilled 0.9mm, 2.5mm
spacing. 95mm wide. 75mm, 152mm & 305mm
lengths available. HP9540-HP9544
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Double Up and Save on Modules
2 FOR
7
$
2 FOR
16
90
$
SAVE 20%
Logic Level
Converter
Module
2.4GHz Wireless
Transceiver
Module
JUST
795
BUY 2 AND SAVE
Connect directly to an
Arduino® board. 3.5V-6V.
Torque 1.6kg.cm <at> 4.8V.
Arduino® compatible.
YM2758 $11.95EA
For projects that don’t require full colour. Wide
viewing angle to eliminate eye strain. Arduino®
compatible. XC3728 $24.95EA
Motor & Servo
Controller Module
5V Stepper Motor
with Controller
JUST
9
95
A small, versatile motor and driver set that can
be used with any Arduino® compatible boards
via jumper leads. XC4458
JUST
5
95
EA.
Connect a legacy device (or
computer) to your Arduino®
board to directly communicate
to a variety of serial peripherals.
Support TX and RX signals.
XC3724
Breadboard Power Module
Adds a compact power supply to your
breadboard. Power from a USB socket
or DC. 3.3V or 5V switchable. XC4606
ONLY
25m
ROLLS
Flexible Light Duty
Hook-Up Wire
Quality 13 x 0.12 tinned hookup wire on
plastic spools. 8 different colours
available. 25m roll. WH3000-WH3007
ARDUINO® COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the product will work in your
Arduino® based project.
FROM
2
$
JUST
995
$
RS-232 to TTL UART
Converter Module
95
ONLY
$
JUST
795
$
9
$
BEST
SELLER
Accepts voltage from 4.5- 35VDC, and
outputs from 3-34VDC. Output is adjusted
via a multi-turn potentiometer.
2.5A max output current.
XC4514
Control up to four DC motors or two
stepper motors. 5-16VDC. XC4472
$
1.3” 128 x 64 OLED
Monochrome
Display Module
DC Voltage
Regulator Module
ONLY
Dual Ultrasonic
Sensor Module
Measure distances up to 4.5m. Great for
obstacle avoidance robotics project. XC4442
SAVE 20%
BUY 2 AND SAVE
1295
$
$
9G Micro
Servo Motor
This module allows communication on the
license free ISM band. Supports on-air data
rates of up to 2Mbps. Arduino® compatible.
XC4508 $9.95EA
2 FOR
3990
90
SAVE 15%
BUY 2 AND SAVE
Provides two bi-directional channels
to safely marry 3.3V with 5.0V. Drops
straight into solder-less breadboard.
12-pin DIL package. Arduino®
compatible. XC4486 $4.95EA
$
$
SAVE 15%
BUY 2 AND SAVE
2 FOR
19
90
95
215
$
ONLY
225
$
SPDT Miniature
Toggle Switch
Solder tag with
threaded bush. ST0335
NE555
Timer IC
ZL3555
12-Way Terminal Strips
Sturdy retention hole. 6A, 10A, 15A,
& 30A available. HM3194-HM3200
RASPBERRY PI COMPATIBLE
This icon indicates that the product will work in your Raspberry Pi project.
s
'
t
a
Wh w?
Ne
Swann 4 Channel
Wi-Fi NVR Kit
Features True Detect™ PIR Motion Sensing
Technology, facial recognition, record
and playback simultaneously. Includes
Network Video Recorder, 4 x 1080p
cameras, power cable, mouse, network
and HDMI cables. QV9107
THIS IS A HIGH QUALITY
SURVEILLANCE SYSTEM
COMPLETE WITH
REMOTE VIEWING VIA
YOUR SMARTPHONE
KJ9051
BUILT-IN FACIAL RECOGNITION
1080P FULL HD QUALITY VIDEO
ILLUMINATED
SWITCHES
ONLY
199
$
DC Control Box for
External Battery with Voltage Display
Feature packed control box with 2 x 50A Anderson
sockets, 6 x switches, 3 x cigarette sockets, dual
USB socket and fuse block in a sturdy plastic
package. Mounting hardware supplied. HB8520
168 PIECES
FROM
5995
STYLISH FABRIC
KJ9050
Fun to assemble and will make a magnificent art piece
on your desk or table. 1 x AA Battery required.
Zodiac Wall Clock
KJ9050 $69.95
Time Engine Calendar KJ9051 $59.95
2 x AA Batteries SB2424 $1.95
BUILT-IN
SPEAKER
TURN A 12V BATTERY INTO A
POWER STATION
DIY Wooden Puzzle Kits
QUALITY SOUND
ONLY
4495
$
ONLY
129
$
4K
Extends 4K HDMI signal using Cat6 cable up to 40m.
Supports 4K up to 40m & 1080p up to 70m. Includes
HDMI loop output . AC1785
1000mAh Ni-MH.
Ideal for cameras
and other high
drain devices.
SB1741
JUST
9
$
95
Great sounding
headphones with
microphone ideal for
gaming, video calls, &
podcasts. Adjustable head
band. Off/on and volume
control on cable. AA2008
159
Portable HD Projector
Accepts up to full HD 1080p inputs with HDMI, USB,
SD and VGA. Projection distance 1m-4m or 32"-120"
viewable size. Remote control included. AP4006
FROM
34
$
Fast charge up
to 4 x AA or AAA
Ni-MH batteries
at the same time.
Supplied with four
pre-charged AA
batteries. MB3574
8K
High quality HDMI 2.1 leads, support
up to 48Gbps, 8K High Dynamic Range
signal in Dolby Vision and HDR10.
Backwards compatible.
1.5m WQ7920 $34.95
3.0m WQ7922 $44.95
ONLY
ONLY
3995
$
95
Concord 8K HDMI Leads
2495
$
SUPER BRIGHT
PROJECTION LAMP
DETACHABLE FLEXIBLE MIC
Fast Battery
Charger
with Batteries
ONLY
$
USB Headphones
with Microphone
4K HDMI Cat6 Extender
with IR Extender
AAA
Rechargeable
Batteries Pk4
ONLY
699
$
WI-FI TECHNOLOGY - EASY INSTALLATION
250 PIECES
$
1TB
HDD
Concord USB Type-C
with Power Delivery
High quality Type-C to Type-C,
metal shell connector & braided
cable. USB 3.1 Gen 2 capable of
data speeds up to 10GBs, rated
100W Max for Type-C PD. 2m.
WC5100
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cannot be ordered or transferred. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and special offers are valid from 24.08.2021 - 23.09.2021.
Second-Generation
Colour Maximite 2
This new CMM2 computer is compatible with the original described in mid-2020 and
adds several great new features. These include more memory, higher-resolution
video modes, 24-bit ‘true colour’, more controller inputs, better keyboard and
mouse support and some new optional components like a super-accurate realtime clock.
Part 2: assembly & use
D
itching the use of a microcontroller module like in the original
CMM2 means there are more SMDs
onboard, but overall it has simplified
the design. Since many vendors are
now supplying boards with the vast
majority of the SMDs already soldered, the cost has been kept low and
assembly is quick and easy. So we’ll
get stuck into that before we describe
some ways you can use it.
Construction
Fig.4 shows the PCB overlay for the
CMM2 Gen2 board. You can use this
as a guide during construction, but it
is also helpful for debugging, testing
or planning hardware expansion (eg,
developing an add-on board for the
computer).
If you’re building your CMM2 Gen2
from scratch (including soldering all
the SMDs), we’ll assume that you
know what you are doing and just give
some general pointers. Firstly, make
sure that you have IC3 & IC4 orientated
correctly before you solder more than
a few pins. Even experienced constructors can sometimes mount ICs with pin
1 in the wrong location, and fixing it
is a lot of work!
siliconchip.com.au
Words and MMBasic by Geoff Graham
Design and firmware by Peter Mather
After soldering IC3 and IC4, clean
up the board and scrutinise the solder
joints to ensure they’re all good and
there are no bridges. You can mount the
remaining SMDs in pretty much any
order. Do check the orientation of the
remaining ICs and oscillator modules
before and after tacking them down.
Once you have all the ICs, resistors,
capacitors, oscillators and reset switch
in place, give the board another clean,
and you’re at the same point as someone who is starting assembly from one
of the partially pre-assembled kits.
Finishing your computer
Even if you have a partially assembled second-generation Colour Maximite 2, you still need to complete
it by soldering the connectors and
larger components, a few of which are
surface-mounted. This is reasonably
straightforward; only a couple of items
need to be treated with care.
The first is the SD card socket, which
should be soldered first so that you
have easy access with the soldering
iron. This is a surface-mounting connector, and it has two small pins on
its underside which match two holes
in the PCB. These help locate the
Australia’s electronics magazine
connector in the correct position while
you solder the pins.
The best approach in soldering this
socket is to apply plenty of liquid
flux on the pins and carry the solder
to the joint on a fine-tipped, temperature-controlled soldering iron. You
could also use fine-gauge rosin cored
soldering wire and solder the joints
directly, but this has the risk of adding too much solder causing shorts etc.
Note that the socket must be held
firm to the PCB while soldering, as
any gap between it and the PCB will
prevent an inserted SD card from making reliable contact with the connector pins.
To start, solder the two tabs on the
right-hand side of the socket (viewed
from the front) and the five on the lefthand side. Some are close to the socket
shield, so take care not to cause a solder bridge there. You can then solder
the nine pins at the rear. If you get a
solder bridge, don’t worry and carry
on with the other pins.
Finally, examine your soldering
carefully and clean up any solder
bridges using solder wick. Be careful
here as solder wick can suck up all
the solder (although generally, it will
September 2021 61
Fig.4 (above): the overlay diagram for the Colour Maximite 2
Gen2. Shown below is the PCB with all the connectors, the SD
card socket and the battery holder soldered in place. The large
central IC is the ARM Cortex-M7 processor, which does most of the work. Above
the processor is the 32MB RAM used for holding VGA images and providing
extra memory for BASIC programs.
leave enough behind). You should go
back over the pins and resolder any
that look like they don’t have enough
solder.
When you have finished, inspect
each joint with a x10 or x20 magnifier. Also count the pins on the SD
card socket; you should have soldered
a total of 16 pins. We have found that
most construction faults in this area
have been missed pins and blobs of
solder shorting to the shield of the SD
card socket.
The real-time clock cell holder is
also surface mounted, but it is easy,
and it also has two small pins on
the underside which ensure the correct positioning. The locations of
the remaining connectors are clearly
marked by the silkscreen on the PCB,
as well as being shown on Fig.4 and
in the accompanying photograph, so
they should drop in easily.
Usually, the case is supplied by the
vendor but, if not, you can purchase
it as a standard item from Jaycar (Cat
HB5970), Altronics (Cat H0472) or element14 (Cat 1526699). When mounting the PCB in the case, it needs 5mm
spacers to be placed between the PCB
and the four mounting posts. These
raise the PCB and the connectors to
match the cut-outs in the front and
rear panels.
Most vendors will also sell pre-cut
and labelled front and rear panels to
finish off the computer with a professional appearance. You can make the
required cut-outs in the blank panels
supplied with the case, but it is much
easier to use the machine-cut panels.
Getting started
With the Colour Maximite 2 Gen2
built, you then need to load the firmware, which includes the MMBasic
interpreter and the drivers for the hardware components (video, keyboard
etc). You can download the firmware
from the Silicon Chip website or the
author’s website.
There is only one version of this. It
will automatically detect the hardware
that it is running on (ie, the first- or
second-generation designs) and configure itself accordingly.
To load the firmware, you will need
a desktop or laptop PC running Windows, Linux or macOS. There are two
methods of loading the firmware using
either a USB Type-A to Type-A cable
or a Type-A to Type-B cable. Both
methods do not require any additional
62
Silicon Chip
Australia's
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
hardware and are fully documented
in the Colour Maximite 2 User’s Manual, which should be in the firmware
download package.
Here is a quick rundown of the
steps involved in programming the
STM32 chip.
01 Install the STM32 Cube programmer software from www.
st.com/en/development-tools/
stm32cubeprog.html
02 Move the jumper on BOOT0 from
RUN to PRG.
03 Plug the CMM2 Gen2 board into
your PC using a USB cable.
04 Launch the STM32 Cube app.
05 Select USB at top right, refresh
and connect.
06 Click the download button at left.
07 Browse to the firmware BIN file.
08 Tick Verify.
09 Start Programming.
10 Wait about five seconds for the
write/verify process to complete.
11 Check that you get the ‘File Download Complete’ OK message.
12 Check that you get the ‘Verify OK’
message.
13 Unplug the CMM2 Gen2 from
your computer
14 Move the BOOT0 jumper back
to RUN.
15 Plug it back into your computer.
With the firmware loaded, you
should see the boot-up screen as
shown in Screen 1. At this point, you
can try typing in a command at the
command prompt. For example, try
this simple calculation:
> PRINT 1/7
0.1428571429
See how much memory you have:
> MEMORY
Flash:
0K ( 0%) Program (0 lines)
516K (100%) Free
RAM:
0K ( 0%) 0 Variables
0K ( 0%) General
24800K (100%) Free
Count to 10:
> FOR a = 1 to 10 :
PRINT a; : NEXT a
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Bubbles
The next step is to try an actual program, such as the following. This will
cover the screen in animated, overlapping coloured bubbles:
siliconchip.com.au
Oscillator Upgrade for the Colour Maximite 2
As described last month, the clock oscillator design in the first generation
Colour Maximite 2 was adequate for the default 800x600 pixel VGA video resolution. However, with firmware upgrades, it is now possible to generate much
higher resolutions. Still, they generally require the fitting of an external clock
oscillator to eliminate jitter and instability in the video.
If you have an original CMM2 and do not plan on using these high resolutions,
you don’t need to perform this upgrade. Also, note that the second generation
design described here already has this external oscillator fitted by default, so
if you build the new version, nothing extra needs to be done.
To perform the upgrade, you will need an 8MHz crystal oscillator in a 5x7mm
SMD package (QX7 XO ≤ 25ppm) such as the Abracon ASV-8.000MHZ-EJ-T,
and possibly a 100nF SMD ceramic capacitor in a 3.2x1.6mm (M3216 or imperial 1206) package. We sell these two parts through our website: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/7/5654
The PCB used in the first generation computer has provision for these parts.
The solder pads are located under the Waveshare board near the left-hand
80-pin connector. Installing these parts can be tricky, so if you have not had
any experience with soldering SMD parts, you should practice on something
unimportant and take extra care.
Also note that the solder pads are close to the 80-pin connector, so care
also needs to be taken to avoid damaging this by accidentally touching it with
the soldering iron.
The oscillator has a dot identifying pin 1, and this needs to be aligned with
the dot on the PCB silkscreen (it is tiny). With the oscillator correctly aligned,
you can solder it with flux paste, a fine-tipped soldering iron and the minimum
of solder. Be careful not to overheat the joint, and do not let the solder touch
the case of the oscillator (which will short the connection to ground).
The capacitor should be fitted after the oscillator. It is easier to solder and
is not polarised.
It is not necessary to remove the 8MHz crystal from the Waveshare board.
The signal from the oscillator is strong enough to swamp the crystal, so it will
have no effect. This strong signal might also damage the crystal, but this is
not a problem as it is now surplus to requirements.
DO
CIRCLE RND*799, RND*599,
RND*100, 1, 1, 0,
RND*16777215
PAUSE 4
LOOP
You can see the result of running
this program in Screen 2. What the
photo does not show is that the screen
is quite lively, with bubbles of all sizes
popping into existence, then being
covered by subsequent bubbles. To
enter this program, type the command
below at the command prompt:
EDIT “bubbles.bas”
This will start the built-in editor
where you can enter the above program.
Once you have done this, press F2 (to
save and run it), and you should see
the screen fill with coloured bubbles.
It will carry on forever; to interrupt
it, press CTRL-C on your keyboard
and you will be returned to the command prompt.
Australia’s electronics magazine
If you made an error when entering
the program, MMBasic will stop the
program and display an error message.
You can then press the F4 key and that
will take you back into the editor, with
the cursor positioned on the line that
caused the error. Correct the error and
press F2 to save this new version and
run it again.
How does this program work? The
DO and LOOP commands set up a
loop that will continuously execute
the commands inside the loop until
interrupted. The CIRCLE command
looks complicated, but it simply draws
a circle at a random position with a
random size and random colour.
In MMBasic, the function RND
generates a different random number
from zero to 0.999999 every time it is
used. We multiply this random number by 799 to give a number between
zero and 799. This is the X-axis of the
centre of the circle, and it will fit on
the screen as the default video resolution is 800x600 pixels. Similarly,
September 2021 63
Screen 1:
when you have
soldered the
connectors in
place, loaded
the firmware
and applied
power, this is
what you will
be greeted with.
You can see
that we entered
a few simple
commands to
prove that we
have a working
computer.
multiplying RND by 599 will give us
the Y-axis position.
Next, multiplying RND by 100 gives
a number between zero and 100, which
is the radius in pixels.
The following three parameters
specify the line width (1 pixel), the
aspect ratio (circular) and the colour
of the circle’s border (black). The final
parameter uses the RND function to
generate a random colour from the 16
million-odd colours that the Colour
Maximite 2 can display (16777215 is
224 − 1), and that colour is used to fill
in the circle.
The PAUSE 4 command on the next
line pauses the program for 4ms after
each circle is drawn. This slows down
the creation of bubbles enough for you
to admire the display. If you delete that
line, you can appreciate the computer’s full speed – it is very fast, and the
bubbles merge into a blur.
Entering a program
Screen 2: the result of running the “bubbles.bas” program described in the text.
The screen is animated, with bubbles of all sizes popping into existence, then
being covered by subsequent bubbles.
Screen 3: the
Welcome Tape
is a collection
of introductory
programs
accessible via
an easy-to-use
menu system
designed for
users new to
the Colour
Maximite 2. You
can download
it from https://
github.com/
thwill1000/
cmm2-welcome
64
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
This was briefly mentioned above
in the “Getting started” section, but
it deserves to be explained in more
detail, as it is central to how the CMM2
is used.
A program is a sequence of BASIC
commands extending over many lines,
so except for the most trivial programs,
you won’t be typing commands in one
at a time at the command prompt. You
need a program editor, and the Colour
Maximite 2 has such an editor built in.
The editor includes colour-coded
text (commands in cyan, comments
in yellow etc), advanced search and
replace, a clipboard for cutting and
pasting and many more handy features.
To invoke the editor, you must have
an SD card inserted in the front panel
slot, as the editor will save the edited
file to this card. The command is:
EDIT "filename"
Where filename is the name of your
program (it must be surrounded by
double quotes). So, for example, type
the following at the command prompt:
EDIT "test.bas"
This will start the editor, allowing
you to edit the file “test.bas” on the
SD card.
If you have used a text editor before
(or even a word processor), you will
find that this one operates similarly.
The arrow keys move the cursor
around the text, the delete key deletes
siliconchip.com.au
the character under the cursor and the
backspace key deletes the character
before the cursor.
At the bottom of the screen, the status line displays common functions
such as F6 for save, ^F (hold CTRL
and press the F key) for find and so on.
At this point, you can try entering
the standard program that most programmers typically use to test a new
computer and programming language:
“Hello World”. This might not sound
like much, but in some cases, this
involves installing software, getting
to grips with complicated compiler
requirements, reading lots of manuals etc.
With the Colour Maximite 2, it
is easy. Just start up the editor (as
described above) and enter the line:
PRINT "Hello World"
Then press the F2 function key, and
the editor will save and run your program with the result that the words
“Hello World” should display on your
screen.
If you have made a mistake, an
informative message will be displayed
by MMBasic. You can then press the
F4 function key, and you will be
returned to the editor with the cursor placed on the line that caused the
problem. The error can be corrected
and by pressing F2 again, your modified program will be saved and run
for another test.
This ease-of-use is part of why the
Maximite series of computers, first
published by Silicon Chip ten years
ago (starting in March 2011), has
become so popular.
Colour Maximite 2 Resources
Since the introduction of the Colour
Maximite 2, many people have had
fun creating programs for this great
little computer and others have gathered them into libraries that you can
access. These are some of them:
Colour Maximite 2 Welcome Tape:
The Welcome Tape (Screen 3) is
a downloadable collection of programs written by the user community
that includes games, demonstrations
and utilities. It is designed for firsttime users and is intended as an easy
introduction to the Colour Maximite
2. See https://github.com/thwill1000/
cmm2-welcome
The CMM2 Library:
https://cmm2.fun is a wonderful
collection of games, utilities and fun
stuff written specifically for the Colour
Maximite 2. It is presented as an easyto-browse list with screenshots, so you
can easily select and download something that could cause you to waste a
whole afternoon or evening of playing around.
Even better, if you have written
something useful, you can upload it
to this library.
The Fruit of the Shed:
A huge catalog of information, code
fragments, programming techniques
for the Colour Maximite 2 and other
devices that run MMBasic. For the
Colour Maximite 2 content, go to http://
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab8u
101 BASIC Computer Games:
If you were around in the late 1970s
and playing with the computers of
that era, you may know the book “101
BASIC Computer Games”, edited by
David H. Ahl. This provides simple
games that you could type in yourself
and inspired a whole generation of
budding programmers. Most will run
on the Colour Maximite 2 with minor
modifications.
If you are into nostalgia, the book
and its programs are available from
this website: www.vintage-basic.net/
games.html
The Back Shed:
An online forum, where many users
gather to discuss the Colour Maximite
2 and swap programs they have written. It is also a great place to get help,
as many experienced people regularly
contribute, including the designers of
the Colour Maximite 2. You can find
the forum at: www.thebackshed.com/
forum/Microcontrollers
More information
If you would like to know more
about the Colour Maximite 2, browse
the comprehensive User’s Manual,
which is available in the download
package from the Silicon Chip website
and on the author’s website at http://
geoffg.net/maximite.html
Also available from both sources is
the free PDF “Introduction to Programming with the Colour Maximite 2”,
which guides you through using the
Colour Maximite 2, including a tutorial
SC
on programming in MMBasic.
Enthusiastic users from around the world have written many programs, including games, for the Colour Maximite 2. Two
of them include a modern representation of the Atari game Gauntlet and a version of the classic arcade game Pac-Man.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 65
BY PHIL PROSSER
Tapped Horn
subwoofer
This subwoofer uses just one 8-inch (200mm) driver, yet its response
extends below 30Hz and it’s capable of delivering over 100dB SPL! That’s
despite a modestly-sized cabinet that’s less than 30cm wide, making it
relatively easy to hide. So how does it achieve this? Read on to find out.
T
his subwoofer is relatively inexpensive to build and not all that
hard either, thanks to its clever design.
If you already have most of the tools,
it will probably end up costing around
$200 in total (depending on where you
get your hardware). You can get away
with using a relatively small amplifier to drive it too, given its high efficiency, although you will need an
active bandpass filter (to be described
next month).
Being a “Tapped horn” subwoofer
means that its sole driver is placed
inside a horn. This type of subwoofer
was made famous by Thomas Danley
of Danley Sound Labs. They are often
used in sound reinforcement; visit
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab9q for a
few examples.
If you want to see the ultimate manifestation of the tapped horn subwoofer,
check out the video at https://youtu.be/
Zbf3bzpgml8
The term “tapped horn” does not
sit easily with the engineer in me, as
66
Silicon Chip
it is not actually horn-loaded. Instead,
it would probably be more accurate to
call the alignment a re-entrant resonant pipe. But let’s set semantics aside
and use the common name.
After reading a few articles on this
approach to making a sub, I decided
to see how they work. The aim was
to present a tapped horn design that
fits into a domestic setting, allowing
readers to explore this concept in an
approachable manner. So, if you have
ever wondered about this sort of sub,
here is your chance to spend a weekend and find out for yourself how
they work!
This subwoofer is more than enough
for a living room, study or bedroom –
it has been kept to a modest scale and
cost. The design presented has been
simplified to avoid odd cut angles, and
I have taken out non-essential corner
fillets to keep the assembly as simple
as possible. I have even sized the box
so that you can use standard sheets of
MDF with minimal cuts.
Australia’s electronics magazine
In loudspeaker design, the designer
needs to juggle several parameters,
notably: the size of the box, how loud
it will go (SPL), its low- and highfrequency extension (bandwidth),
and its efficiency (how much power
it takes to drive to a particular sound
level).
A tapped horn can push the efficiency, low frequency extension and
SPL well beyond that offered by a conventional sealed or vented enclosure.
It achieves this by placing the driver
inside the acoustic path and folding
that path around, so that the output
from the back of the driver adds to the
output of the front of the driver.
But there ain’t no such thing as a
free lunch, so you pay the price in
complexity.
As shown in Fig.1, one side of a
loudspeaker drives the horn close to
its end, and the other side of a loudspeaker drives it close to its output.
If the two drivers are fed with the
same signal, they deliver out-of-phase
siliconchip.com.au
signals into the horn since they face
opposite directions. This gives the
simulated response shown in Fig.2;
note the extended bass response.
But the same driver can’t exist in
two different places, so to get the
driver to fire into both the front and
back ends of the horn, the enclosure is
folded over on itself – see Fig.3. This
single-fold design is still really long
and not that convenient. It is possible to fold these up further in several
ways. The configuration we have chosen is shown in Fig.4.
Ideally, it would be made from conically expanding sections, but those
are really fiddly to cut. You will note
that we have cheated on this and
made the sections straight. Our tests
show that the impact is not enough to
worry about.
Remember that a conventional sealed
enclosure is there to absorb the rearward output from a driver. By juggling
the length and area of the path from
the back of the driver to the mouth,
we achieve constructive interference of
the sound over a set bandwidth. This
increases the efficiency and allows us
to push the low-frequency extension
further down.
Of course, this comes with compromises. A tapped horn only works over
a limited bandwidth, after which the
output becomes a series of peaks and
dips. Therefore, we need to set the
crossover frequency low enough to
cut out all the unwanted frequencies.
Also, below the low-frequency cutoff,
cone excursion becomes uncontrolled,
similar to a vented enclosure.
The solution is to drive the subwoofer with an active crossover that
filters out high frequencies and provides a subsonic filter to remove
unwanted low frequencies.
Every professional sound system
includes subsonic filtering for their
subs. This protects the drivers from
over-excursion and avoids the amplifiers wasting power by driving the
speakers with signals they cannot
generate.
This article presents only the subwoofer. It should be driven with a signal that’s been through a 20Hz subsonic filter (high-pass) of 24dB/octave
and a low-pass filter of -24dB/octave
with a -3dB point of 80Hz.
We will present an active crossover
design to provide this next month.
Still, you can probably drive it from
the subwoofer output on many home
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the basic concept of a tapped horn
subwoofer. The two drivers are supplied with the same signal. As
they are mounted rotated 180° compared to each other, the signals they generate
within the horn are out-of-phase. But it takes time for sound to travel down the
horn, so over a certain range of frequencies, the sound reaching the outer driver
is in-phase, resulting in constructive interference and reinforcement.
Fig.2: the simulated response of a folded horn. It gives a nice broad plateau
over the range from just below 30Hz up to about 100Hz plus a series of peaks
and troughs at higher frequencies, as the sound waves constructively or
destructively interfere depending on the specific frequency. So we need a lowpass filter to eliminate signals above 100Hz for it to sound good.
Fig.3: this rearrangement of the tapped horn shown in Fig.1 is more practical
to build since it is both shorter and uses just one driver instead of two, but it
achieves the same result.
Fig.4: more folding of
the horn (and a bit of
creativity regarding
how it tapers) allows
us to create an
even more compact
enclosure without
sacrificing much in the
way of performance.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 67
9 00
TOP
884
EXIT OF HORN
THIS SOUND PATH IS ABOUT 2.54m LONG
153
762
41 6
PANEL C – STEP #3
315
649
FRONT - STEP #1
PANEL B – STEP #2
20 2
635
PANEL A – STEP #6
500
468
200
BACK - STEP #8
START OF HORN
PANEL D – STEP #5
PANEL E –
STEP #4
18 4
72
346
Fig.5: this diagram shows
the order in which we
suggest you attach the
internal panels to the
side and show the two
acoustic paths as dashed
lines. It also includes
most of the important
dimensions, so you can
check that you’re building
it right, but as you’re
unlikely to cut the panels
to exactly the right sizes,
don’t expect a perfect
match. Also note that the
top and bottom panels sit
above and below the side
panel, not on it.
868
BOTTOM - STEP #7
theatre systems, noting that these
rarely include a subsonic filter.
Design
This subwoofer was designed using
a program called “Hornresp”, written
by David McBean. This is freely available from www.hornresp.net and supported on several DIY Audio forums. It
would be fair to say that this program is
not super-easy to use, but it does allow
us to model what various lengths and
diameters of horn sections will do.
If you try this program out, we recommend using the “Loudspeaker wizard” via the Tools menu. This lets you
change the lengths and diameters of
each horn section while watching the
power response of the horn.
The horn we present juggles the following requirements:
• A -3dB point below 30Hz.
• A passband ripple of no more than
4dB; in the real world, rooms have
all sorts of resonances.
• Using a readily available, lowcost driver.
• Material able to be transported in
a small car; say, a VW Golf.
• Only small sheets of material
required to make the enclosure,
ideally with minimum cuts.
• An enclosure that can be hidden
under a desk or behind a couch.
For the driver, the Altronics C3088
is a good balance of size, power handling and cost while providing pretty
decent cone excursion compared to
its peers. Cone excursion is really
important in subwoofers and is often
overlooked. At a given SPL, the lower
you want to go in frequency demands
rapidly increasing cone excursion.
68
Silicon Chip
Consideration of this is essential in
designing a sub. Ultimately, a driver
with a ‘good Xmax’ is essential.
The C3088 has a 4.5mm voice coil
overhang, and in our tests, more than
5mm effective Xmax, which is pretty
good.
Folding the horn as shown in Fig.4,
to achieve the above, we need the following:
• 200mm from the start of the horn
to the back of the driver.
• 2.54m from the back of the driver
to the front.
• ~420mm (416mm actual) from
the front of the driver to the exit
of the horn.
This defines our overall enclosure
as having the following dimensions:
• Internal width (z-axis in Fig.5):
250mm, external 282mm
• Internal depth: 868mm, external
900mm
• External height: 500mm
Performance
The resulting tapped horn subwoofer is shown in Fig.5.
Measuring the performance of subwoofers is much harder than full-range
speakers due to reflections and resonances in the room. I made the measurements shown in Fig.6 at one metre,
but not in the corner of a room. Placing the subwoofer facing the corner
of a room, with about 20cm between
the sub and the walls, will give better
performance (ie, more bass!).
The sound level is shown by the
black line (axis in dB on the left), while
the fainter line is the phase (axis in
degrees on the right). Note the peak in
Fig.6: the measured response of the prototype subwoofer without the bandpass
filter in place. The dark line is the amplitude, while the lighter dashed grey line
is the phase. This agrees pretty well with the simulation, although the response
actually extends to over 200Hz before the severe peaks and dips start to appear.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The subwoofer was tested in my workshop setting as shown
here, and in a spacious church hall shown adjacent.
the response at 200Hz. You really need
a crossover that provides a minimum
of 18dB attenuation by this point, or
you will be able to hear the resonance
of the tapped horn.
The response is somewhat smoother
than predicted but does present the
predicted ripple above 100Hz, the
peak at 200Hz and a deep dip at about
250Hz. There is no question that this
subwoofer needs a steep crossover.
I carried out further tests in my
workshop, a 60m2 converted shed,
where this sub generated very solid
bass and rattled the tin exterior (see
above). It integrated very neatly with
some small monitor speakers using
five-inch Vifa bass-mid drivers. I set
the tapped horn to main speaker crossover at 80Hz, and I applied no attenuation to either the sub or midrange.
The next test was to challenge the
sub. After painting, I took it to a rather
large church hall and integrated it
with some old but extremely efficient
10-inch bass-mid driver based speakers. These have an efficiency well
above 90dB at 1W & 1m. I kept the
crossover at 80Hz but turned up the
sub quite a lot to match the level of
the bass-mids.
In this 110m2 metre hall (shown at
upper right), which is 10 metres tall,
the tapped horn made a good showing of itself. While you would not
run a disco with it, it handled pop
and blues music to ‘enthusiastic’, but
short of ‘extreme’, levels. The author
does, however, have a fairly high tolerance for noise.
Being in a church, I tried some very
sub laden Gregorian chant music, and
Parts List – Tapped Horn Subwoofer
1 Altronics C3088 8-inch 70W woofer [or Wagner SB20PFC30-8]
3 1200 x 900mm 16mm MDF sheets
134 50mm-long 8-10G countersunk wood screws (get a box of 250)
8 16mm 8G screws (for mounting the driver)
1 1m length of 10mm-wide adhesive-backed foam tape
(can be cut from a wider strip).
1 pair of speaker terminals (we used a Speakon connector,
but you can use any type)
1 1m length of speaker cable (twin-lead, 17AWG) [Altronics W1936]
1 bottle of PVA glue, at least 200mL
1 tub of “builder’s bog”, at least 200mL
1 can of primer paint suitable for timber
1 square of 120 grit sandpaper (buy more than one so you have spares)
1 square of 240 grit sandpaper (buy more than one so you have spares)
1 litre of DuraTex textured paint (bed liner paint would probably work too)
[www.cannonsound.com]
1 tube of acrylic gap filler (in case you have unexpected gaps in your joints)
4 feet (we used four 38mm Surface Gard Round Side Glide feet from Bunnings)
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
was quite impressed at being able to
feel the bass.
Construction
See the parts list to see what material
you need to buy. You will also need
the following tools:
• A simple hand-held circular saw;
you do not need a fancy table saw.
Alternatively, get your local hardware store person to make the
long cuts and use a hand saw for
the remaining, shorter cuts.
• A hand-held drill with 3mm and
4mm drill bits, a countersinking
bit and a Philips-head screwdriver bit.
• A long metal ruler or straight edge.
• Either G-clamps or sash clamps,
to hold the MDF while cutting.
• A router with a 12mm radius bit,
for finishing the edges.
• A 10mm diameter, 100mm-long
nap roller.
• A spatula and scraper, for mixing and applying filler over the
screw holes.
• A tub of water and a dishcloth, to
clean up glue spills and the excess
squeezed from joints.
Cutting the sheets
We have laid the panels out on three
sheets of timber that you can transport
in a VW Golf or larger, per the earlier
requirements. Review the drawings
(Figs.7-9) before you start cutting. The
majority of pieces needed are either
250mm or 282mm wide.
After making these main cuts, you
can cut the sides from the offcuts, plus
a series of lengths from these 250mm
and 282mm wide panels.
September 2021 69
Figs.7-9: here are the panels that need to be cut from the three 1200 x 900mm
sheets. You might be able to cut them all from a single 1200 x 2400mm sheet
if you have a way to transport it (or get it delivered), although we haven’t
verified that. It’s also a bit easier to work with smaller sheets. Even better, get
the hardware store to make the initial cuts for you, yielding three 292mm wide
strips, three 250mm wide strips and two 468mm wide strips. You will then just
need to make a few extra cuts to get all the pieces you need.
Measure carefully and double-check
that the side panels are not too tall or
deep, as an error in this dimension
will result in an overhang of the top
or rear panels. Some hints:
• Check that all parts are within
±2mm, although you will need
to do better than this for ‘living
room furniture’.
• Mark the hole locations (see photo
below). Use a pencil to mark the
panels on the inside. Do not be
afraid to measure and mark liberally, as once the box is assembled,
these will be hidden.
• Take your time and check that
all the markings are in the right
place. Once you are assembling
this speaker, it will be a real nuisance if you need to move things!
• There are many screw holes
through the side panels. Make
sure these are marked within
2mm or so. These measurements
are essential to the screws going
into the internal panels.
• Panel C has the speaker driver
cut-out, which you should make
after the panel has been cut but
before the cabinet is assembled.
Use a compass to mark the hole
in pencil, then use a jigsaw to cut
it out. If you’re lucky enough to
have a suitable hole saw, that’s
even better. You can use a small
handsaw if you don’t have either,
although it does take a little perseverance!
Now make any assembly markings
you feel will help you get the panels
aligned. Refer to the photos; placing
“V” marks will assist you in getting
the panels in the proper alignment.
The screw holes define the centres
along which of the 16mm-thick panels
will be attached, so the edges of these
To figure out where the panels are
going to lie and where to drill holes,
you will need to temporarily arrange
the cut panels as shown in Fig.5, then
use a pencil or other marker to trace
their outlines. You can then use a
ruler to draw lines down the centre of
each panel location and the locations
to drill holes will be along these lines.
You can see from my photos how I did
this (although I didn't mark the panel
edges, only the centres, as I have the
experience to do that).
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panels will be 8mm on either side of
the row of holes. Once the screw holes
have been marked, mark the panel
edge locations and add Vs on either
side of the panel lines so that you
can see how well centred the panel is
along the screw hole line when you
are installing the panels.
Once everything checks out, drill
4mm diameter holes for the screws.
Drill from the inside. There will be
some chipping of the MDF where the
drill exits, but this will be dealt with
in the next step.
Then countersink all holes from
the outside so that the panels are neat
and tidy. Countersink the holes deep
enough that the screw heads will
sit flush with the panels (as shown
below).
Assembly
Refer now to Fig.5 for the order in
which you should attach the panels.
We’ll go through these steps one at a
time.
Step 1 is to attach the front panel
that sits in the cut-out in the corner
of the side panel. If necessary, file the
cut-out on the side panel so that the
front panel is well-aligned at the top
edge of the side panel. Take time to get
this right, as all the following panels
align to this.
Check that the markups on the
insides of the front and side panels line
up well, then put a modest amount of
glue on the joint.
The 3mm drill bit is for pre-drilling
holes into the sides of the MDF panels where the screws will enter. This
is important to keep the panels from
splitting. When you have everything
aligned, pre-drill one hole (3mm) to a
minimum depth of 50mm into the side
of the panel, then put that screw in.
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September 2021 71
1
2
When gluing the panels together, you will want to make sure to use a set of clamps and/or weights while it sets. Titebond
wood glue is quite good for these types of jobs. Note that these panels are also kept together via screws and not just glue.
Take the opportunity now to nudge
the panel so that it is straight and
well-aligned. Do this before you predrill the remaining holes. Be sure you
are happy, as everything that follows
hangs off this panel!
Once you are satisfied everything
is good, pre-drill the remaining holes
and then screw the panels together.
Steps 2 & 3 are internal baffles B &
C. Run glue along the bottom and front
edges of panels 2 and 3, but do so one
at a time. Push the panel into alignment and use the marks you made to
get everything aligned. The V-marks
will help you get each panel square
over the drill holes.
While pushing the panel in place,
pre-drill then screw the bottom hole
in the front panel (from step 1). Note
that by starting with a screw in the bottom hole first, you will pull Panels B
and C tight into the front panel with
a minimum of error.
3b
Continue pre-drilling and screwing
all the remaining holes. Clean up any
glue that has seeped out of the joints.
Step 4 is to fit internal baffle E. Push
it down between Panels B and C. This
will be tight. Try to get some glue in
there, but assuming you have a good
fit, this should not be critical. If you
have a gap here and there, run a bead
of acrylic filler over the gap(s). Pre-drill
and screw this in place from both panels B and C, and through the side panel.
Step 5 is to fit internal baffle D. Line
up panel D with panel C. Again, use
those V marks on the panel to get the
panel A end of panel D in the right
spot. The trick here is to get a good
alignment at the corner of panels C
and D.
Start again with the screw at the bottom of the junction of Panels C and D.
Once it is in place, pre-drill and screw
in all screws, checking alignments as
you go.
5
For step 6, fit panel A similarly to
panel D.
Steps 7 & 8 are to fit the top and
rear panels. Start with the top panel,
ensuring a clean edge is presented at
the juncture of the front and the top
panel. Get this clean and screw along
the front and side panel. Pre-drill and
screw all screws for this panel. Then
screw the rear panel on with two
screws only – don’t glue it yet.
Check the fit of the bottom panel,
trying to get good alignment with the
rear panel and front edge of the side
panel. Jiggle this around to get the best
fit you can. If there is a slight misalignment, it’s much better for it to turn up
now. Remember that before painting,
you will be filling and sanding – so
minor indiscretions will disappear.
If you need to slightly shift the rear
panel, remove the two screws and predrill new holes to fix this panel where
you want it. Once you are sure it is OK,
6
This is a close-up view of the
panel in Step 3 showing the gap
between Panel B & C.
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3a
4
Once the glue has been applied and the joints clamped, they should be left clamped for at least one hour, then left to cure
for approximately a day.
pre-drill, glue and screw the remaining
holes in the rear panel. Do not drill,
glue or screw the bottom panel yet!
Step 9 is to fit the other side panel.
I used acrylic filler rather than PVA
to glue the side panel on, but this is
not essential, especially if you cut
your panels accurately. After applying the adhesive, slide the side panel
into place, then drop it onto the internal baffles.
Push the side panel in place so that
there is a flush fit along the top panel,
then pre-drill and screw along this
edge. Next, push the front and rear
edges of the side panel to get good
alignment with the front and rear panels, and again, pre-drill and screw.
Now pre-drill and screw all the
holes on the side panel. If your measurements were good, all the screws
will go into the internal baffles. If the
drill falls through the holes and misses
the internal baffle, drill at an angle
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that does catch the internal baffle (this
should not be necessary!).
Mounting the driver
The driver needs to be mounted
before the bottom panel is installed.
With everything in place, jiggle the
C3088 speaker to ensure that it sits
neatly in the hole you have cut. If the
hole is a touch undersized, the speaker
will not sit snugly. If that is the case,
now is the time to fix it! Carpenters
may shake their finger at us, but you
can use a rasp to enlarge the hole
slightly, given this is hidden inside.
Then stick foam tape around the
edge of the driver hole. This will
ensure that a good seal is achieved
between the driver and Panel C. Then
install speaker wire as shown in the
photo overleaf, ensuring there is sufficient length to pull through the driver
hole and solder to the driver. Make
sure you can identify the “+” wire to
the driver as this needs to connect to
the “+” pin of the speaker connector.
Run the speaker wire through to the
speaker connector. We used a Speakon
connector as many of our speakers use
these, although you might prefer to use
banana sockets and/or binding posts
on your sub.
We drilled a 25mm hole on the rear
panel to mount the connectors we
used. We haven’t shown a location or
size for this hole on the cutting diagrams because its size and shape will
depend on your connector, and it can
go pretty much anywhere you like on
the rear panel. It will probably look
best if it’s somewhere along the vertical centreline, though.
Now seat the speaker in the hole
and mount it using 16mm 8G screws
that do not pull through the hole in the
speaker frame (ie, with large enough
heads, or washers if necessary). Predrill the holes to 2mm, then insert the
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September 2021 73
9
Make sure to seal the speaker wires
when finished.
eight screws. Progressively tighten
screws on opposite sides of the driver
until all are tight. Do not overtighten
these as the foam tape will ensure a
good seal.
With the driver in place, attach the
bottom panel. Do not glue it; simply
screw it down with the generous number of fixings. This will allow you to
access the driver later if it needs to be
replaced.
Finishing the box
I routed all external edges with a
12mm radius bit. If you do not have a
router, that doesn’t matter. Use 80 and
then 120 grit sandpaper to round the
edges until they look and feel smooth.
I then used “builder’s bog” to fill all
the countersunk screw holes. Once
this dried, I sanded those areas and
then applied a second coat of bog to get
those areas really smooth. Do not fill
the holes in the bottom panel, though!
You need to be able to remove it.
Once I was satisfied that the enclosure was smooth enough and all
screw holes – except those in the bottom panel – were now flush with the
MDF, I coated the box in DuraTex. I
first applied a thin coat, then after one
hour, a second, thicker coat using a
10mm nap roller.
DuraTex is a textured paint sold
for use on professional speakers. It is
tough and textured so that it takes life’s
bumps without showing too much. It
also helps to hide any imperfections
in our work.
Finally, I screwed on the feet and
the sub was complete. As promised
earlier, next month I’ll describe an
active crossover that’s perfect for use
with this subwoofer (or any two-way
SC
or three-way speaker system).
A router makes finishing the edges
much easier, but it can also be done
with sandpaper. Any gaps and cracks
can be filled by using a mix of wood
glue and sawdust, or wood filler.
The finished subwoofer had primer
applied and was then painted black.
You could also just apply a lacquer or
polish depending on how you want it
to look.
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SERVICEMAN'S LOG
‘Playing’ with fire
Dave Thompson
I always hesitate to ‘help’ repairers or installers do work in my home.
While I presume that my talents would come in handy (even if I’m just
acting as a third hand), I know how frustrating it can be when someone
who is not an expert is hovering over you. Sometimes, a ‘helper’ is
actually a hindrance. In this case, I think the guy appreciated assistance
from someone with decent electronics knowledge.
A
little while ago, I was sitting in
my workshop doing somethingor-other when suddenly there was a
huge boom! The earth shook, dust fell
from the light fittings, and everything
on the bench was rearranged slightly.
This didn’t overly disturb me, as
earthquakes are a dime a dozen here
these days.
I’ll admit that my heart did race a
little, as it always does with quakes,
though I did think it a bit unusual
at the time. Most ‘quakes don’t have
the sharp shock and loud audio
soundtrack this one had, tending
instead to be rolling, rumbling affairs
lasting perhaps 30 seconds or more.
This one was very short and sharp,
and quite loud, but I thought nothing
more of it at the time.
I know, great story, right? However,
this will all become relevant later, I
promise!
Keeping the ‘cave’ comfortable
Increasingly, our news reports seem
to be chock full of extreme weather
events. If it isn’t droughts, it’s floods,
and if it isn’t wildfires, it is plunging
temperatures from seemingly endless
polar blasts. Sometimes both of these
will happen in the same place, just a
few months apart.
While being so far away from the
hottest places on the planet does help
us here in New Zealand a little, being
so close to very cold places does have
its drawbacks. Anyone who has visited Christchurch (or anywhere further
south of here) in the middle of winter will know what I’m talking about.
This year, we have record-breaking
‘cold snaps’, which sound vaguely
appealing, like something my grandma
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would have baked. But to those of us
living here, they are anything but.
When the mercury drops to -7°C of
a morning, for example, one really
appreciates having a well-insulated,
well-heated double-glazed home.
The rub is that most homes built
here before, say, the 1980s are mainly
uninsulated (apart from some having
fibreglass insulating batts retrofitted
into the roof over the living areas if
you were posh).
They typically have single-glazed
windows, making them increasingly
inappropriate for the temperature
extremes we are now seeing in the
summer and winter months.
My parents’ ex-home, which we
have just sold due to them not being
here any longer, is a classic example.
Mum and dad added insulation and
better windows to their 1959-built
house, where practical, while they
lived there.
But with no wall insulation, minimal roof insulation and originally just
two back-to-back fireplaces to heat the
whole house (eventually replaced with
stand-alone electric heaters, then heat
pumps), the home was very susceptible to heat and cold. It was sweltering
in the summer and impossible to warm
up in the winter.
These days, it is increasingly important that houses be properly built and
well-insulated. Not only is it a nicer
place to be, but it is also a lot less
expensive to heat or cool, especially
given that costs of energy – whether
electricity, gas or wood – are all going
through the roof (pun intended!).
Time for an upgrade
Recently, the 35-plus-year-old
Australia’s electronics magazine
Items Covered This Month
• ‘Playing’ with fire
• TV remote control repair
• Surround sound system repair
• RS-485 network with
•
•
intermittent faults
Philips AE5230 radio repair
Repairing two laptops that
wouldn’t POST
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Masport LPG gas fire we inherited
when we bought this house five years
ago started playing up.
The Masport range is well-known
and seems to include pretty decent
products. However, the model in our
lounge was deprecated years ago and
finding information on it turned out
to be a challenge.
The ‘modern’ Masport company has
nothing relating to it on their website,
not even giving it a listing in its ‘old
bangers’ section. I eventually found,
through a helpful forum post, a PDF
service manual for it. With that, I could
finally plumb the depths of what is still
available for it parts-wise, which, as
you can probably guess, is 5/8ths of
less than nothing.
So, the weather was getting colder,
and our gas fire often wouldn’t start
properly (which entails opening a
valve to the ‘light’ position and pushing a piezo striker button repeatedly
until it decides to work). When it did
light, it performed poorly.
September 2021 75
When we first moved in, one push
would ignite it, and the valve was
infinitely adjustable (according to the
equally-spaced markings painted on
the top of the dial) from a tiny flame
to a roaring fire.
It suited us perfectly, especially after
moving from a pellet stove/fire in our
old house which, while efficient and
easy to manage, entailed lugging 20kg
bags of wood pellets around. That
increasingly became a downside for
me over time [people pay good money
to gyms so they can get exercise like
that! – Editor].
However, lately, the fire’s gas valve
had to be set to full before the fire
would even start, and even then, we
often gave up because it just wouldn’t
go at all.
With research (as is the serviceman’s
way), I found the valve’s manufacturer,
as that is where I suspected the problem lay. I then discovered that even if
we could get one, it would cost around
$600-700.
I wasn’t keen on throwing too much
money at this old fire, but probably
would if it was likely to get it back
into full working order.
Calling in the experts
In the end, I bit the bullet and called
in a gas serviceman. I’d need a licensed
gas guy regardless, and if nothing else,
he could ensure our bottled LPG gas
system (with two 45kg cylinders) was
delivering the right amount of juice
to the fire.
We also have a gas cooking hob on
the same line, and while that seemed
OK, for troubleshooting purposes, one
has to start somewhere...
He had all manner of cool tools
to do his work, especially the electronic stuff like digital manometers
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and differential pressure meters, all
of which looked like something I
could use!
Now, I’m quite aware of people looking over my shoulder when I’m doing
my thing, so I made sure to ask this guy
if it was OK if I had a look at what he
was doing and how he did it, purely
out of professional interest.
This wasn’t so I could try to do it
myself in the future – working with
gas is fraught with potentially lethal
pitfalls for the amateur. And here I
refer back to my opening statement;
a few years ago, a house a couple of
kilometres from here (as the crow flies)
literally exploded because a gas fitting
job wasn’t done properly, which created the colossal boom I’d heard and
shook the ground.
It was a miracle nobody was killed,
but there were some serious injuries
and a ton of collateral property damage, so I made a pact that I would
never mess with such things. I merely
wanted to look on and understand the
system used in this house for myself.
The guy did some typical pressure
and flow tests and determined our bottle regulator, an ancient switchable gas
valve that I thought could only be manually switched between bottles, was
working but a bit iffy. For the relatively
low cost of 150 kiwi bucks, it was well
worth upgrading to a newer (and presumably more efficient) model.
It also seamlessly auto-switches
between bottles when one runs out,
something the older one apparently
should have done but never did, at
least in my experience.
That meant the old fire itself was the
problem, and though he serviced it, it
still sooted up and gave below-normal
heat output. It was obvious we needed
a new one.
Australia’s electronics magazine
The astute reader will realise there
isn’t much electronics-related material
in this column so far; here is where
that all changes!
It’s a gas, gas, gas
Long story short (thank goodness!),
we decided on a new gas fire. Though
a different brand, the new version is
essentially the same physical size but
has a higher efficiency rating and overall heat output, so that’s a couple of
boxes ticked already.
It also bristles with electronics,
and there is even an app and optional
add-on that allows users to control it
from anywhere with mobile phone
coverage. I like it very much already!
Another feature is the remote controller; this enables instant, singlebutton starting, fan speed control,
on/off timer settings and even thermostatic control of the room temperature.
A thermocouple that picks up the
room temperature is clearly visible
through a 1mm-round opening in the
side of the remote controller. This is a
double-edged sword, though; surely it
would depend on where in the room
the controller was sitting as to what
temperature it picks up.
The remote comes with a wall
mount, which they recommend putting somewhere handy to the fire.
However, common sense tells me that
if I put it on the wall right behind the
stove, it will be a lot warmer there
than across the room, so it won’t have
a good indication of the overall room
temperature. I’ll have to think about
this feature for a while...
Installation was the next step for the
serviceman. This also interested me, as
it became evident as the process went
on that I could have easily done this
job, except for the ‘gas’ side of things,
obviously. The practical side could be
done by anyone reasonably competent
with manual tools such as drills, concrete screws, wall plugs and the like.
In fact, many of the fittings looked
very similar to the hydraulic lines and
fittings I would have used back in my
airline days, and many of the flanging and sealing processes were very
familiar. While I was reasonably confident I could have done all this, there
was the nagging doubt that the house
could explode if I messed it up, and
I’m pretty sure the insurance assessor wouldn’t be overly impressed!
Fair play!
siliconchip.com.au
I didn’t want that on my conscience
anyway.
Lending a helping hand (or 2)
The serviceman who installed the
fire was an older-school type, and
while very adept at the mechanical
side of the task, he seemed to be struggling a bit with the electrical/electronic side of things. It turns out he’d
installed dozens of this type of fire,
but none with the electronic modules
fitted, and this obviously perturbed
him a little.
I offered to help where I could, and
he was grateful, even naming me his
‘wingman’ in several telephone conversations he had with his colleagues. I
doubted I’d be of much use, but helped
out initially holding torches and keeping things steady in cases where a second pair of hands is most welcome.
When it came to wiring it all up, I
could see he was not that comfortable
with the wiring diagrams and sparse
instructions printed in the installation manual.
The first problem I could see, and
something I foresaw the day before as
the guy was drilling holes in the concrete hearth for the fire mounting fasteners, was access to the electronics.
While there is a manual ‘control
panel’ in the bottom front of the unit,
it isn’t very large. It appeared to me
by reading through the manual that
we’d eventually have to take the various electronic enclosures inside the
fire out to work on them.
With the fire bolted down, there was
very limited room out back to remove
this stuff. Surely, they could have
printed the manual so that installers
could do all this electronics-related
work before the thing was installed.
I suppose this is where experience
comes in; the guy will know for next
time, I guess.
So mechanically, the fire was
securely attached to the floor (a
requirement now with quakes being
what they are here), but we needed to
tweak a few things before we could
(ahem) fire it up.
The first thing he had to do was convert the stove to run on bottled LPG
gas rather than the natural (reticulated)
gas it is initially configured for. That
entails swapping several internal jets
over with the supplied kit. It also had
to be changed in the electronic controller, which by now was very difficult
to get to. It just wouldn’t come out the
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front, so we had to try to get it out via
the back access panel.
I eventually managed to finagle
it out. After removing three screws,
which doubled as cable clamps at one
end of the industrial-looking plastic
controller box, I could remove the
top. Apparently, there was a ‘jumper’
in there that had to be set for LPG use,
but the photos in the Xeroxed installation manual were woeful, making it
very difficult to locate.
As the installer guy admitted that he
had never seen one and didn’t know
what to look for, I volunteered for the
job. With the usual holding of torches,
twisting of bodies and lots of blue air, I
finally found the jumper buried in the
shadow of a heatsink of some semiconductor or other.
Fortunately, it was identical to the
typical computer motherboard or hard
drive jumpers I’ve grown old with, so I
recognised it as soon as I saw it. A set
of curved long-nose pliers (supplied by
me) enabled me to flip it around, and
I set it on one pin only. I could have
removed it altogether, but this allows
any future owner (however unlikely
that scenario is) to revert it to natural
gas operation more easily.
With the correct sticker applied
to the lid of the enclosure (to show
it had been converted for LPG use),
I remounted the top, finding that in
the meantime, all the cabling had
expanded, so I needed longer screws.
Once again, I went to my workshop to
look in my parts bins; luckily, I have
literally thousands of screws of all
types saved over the years, and soon
found three that were suitable.
Once buttoned up, I could stuff the
controller box back into the cavity.
I tried to position it as far from anything hot as possible, and routed all the
cabling into place as best I could, tying
it back with cable ties (again supplied
by me) where necessary.
While the front panel was still
open, the last thing was to put a digital manometer onto a tap by the main
jet and adjust the low- and high-pressure settings for the flame. Then the
acid test: with a single tap of the
remote controller button, the electronic lighter crackled, and the fire lit
up immediately.
Flame up and down is just as
smooth, and with thermostatic control,
our gas usage should be much more
manageable. What luxuries modern
electronics give us!
Australia’s electronics magazine
Overall, I think the serviceman/
installer guy was pleased to have my
help, but it is hard to know sometimes.
We haven’t had the bill yet, so we’ll
soon see how much he appreciated it!
TV remote control repair
B. P., of Dundathu, Qld came up
with an unorthodox repair for a wornout TV remote control. You might not
expect it to work, but it did, solving a
common problem that plagues many
old remotes...
Several years ago, we picked up
a 27-inch TCL TV at a charity shop.
This fitted perfectly in our entertainment unit in the lounge room, replacing a more than 20-year-old CRT TV.
This TV only has an analog tuner, but
we were using it with a PVR that has
a digital tuner anyway.
The TV performed well for several
years, but recently I noticed that it
was getting hard to turn on. I had to
hold down the power button on the
remote hard for several seconds. This
fault was at its worst during winter,
so whatever was causing it was apparently temperature-sensitive.
The remote control for the PVR has
a mode where it can operate the TV,
but it only provides limited controls.
But at least it lets you switch the TV
on and adjust the sound and picture. I
tried this and found that the TV turned
on straight away, so the fault was with
the TCL remote control.
I dismantled the TCL remote to diagnose it. Care needs to be taken when
dismantling remote controls, as it’s
quite common for the clips to break.
In this case, though, it was quite easy
to get it apart without any damage; I
was able to use my thumbnail to prise
the case apart.
I inspected the circuit board and
found it to be quite dirty from many
years of use. I cleaned the circuit board
and the rubber pad button contacts,
and then I laid the rubber pads on the
September 2021 77
circuit board and fitted the batteries to test it. Unfortunately, it still didn’t work correctly, suggesting that the
conductive material on the pads had worn out.
I decided to try putting some conductive grease on the
pads to see if that would solve the issue. Being a retired
motorcycle mechanic, I was fairly sure I would have
some sort of conductive grease on hand, such as graphite grease or similar.
I checked my workshop and found some copper-based
grease, so I tried that. I smeared the circuit board contacts with that grease, then overlaid the rubber pad and
worked the buttons to ensure that each button’s contact
had a light covering of grease.
After lightly wiping down both the circuit board and
the pads, I reassembled the remote control and tested it. It
was now as good as new, with just a light touch switching
on the TV. Several months later, it’s still working well, so
this was another successful fix using a simple solution.
Surround sound system repair
B. C., of Dungog, NSW is the type to help out friends by
fixing their gear when it acts up. In this case, the receiver
had already been ‘professionally’ repaired, but it still
needed a lot of work to put right...
It started as a simple request to reconnect all the surround speakers to Trevor’s LG DVD/VCR combo receiver
(model LH-CX640W), a device with more accoutrements
than your average house. Apparently, it had been repaired
by a service centre in a larger town some time ago. After
its return, it had only been reconnected to the television
using an AV cable; the handful of speaker cables had been
left unconnected at the back of the cabinet.
When the cabinet was moved out away from the wall, a
rat’s nest of very light gauge speaker cables was revealed.
I decided to run all-new heavier gauge speaker cables and
also to clip them up on to the floor joists (the old ones
were dangling). The old cables were used as draw wires,
and apart from two of the runs, there was enough crawl
space to fit most of the cables without too much bother.
I then connected all six speakers to the LG receiver and
powered it up. Upon playing a DVD, the centre speaker
and one rear speaker were silent. Tapping the top of the
LG Combi Receiver would intermittently restore audio to
these two channels.
I disconnected everything again, took it to the kitchen
table and removed the main PCB. I resoldered all the terminals on the speaker output block; some had obvious
dry joints. After refitting the PCB, the machine was reconnected to the speakers. It now worked correctly on all six
speakers, and I was confident that this would be the end
to the sound problems.
About a fortnight later, Trevor mentioned that when
the receiver had been in use for a while, it would just
stop working and the power indicator (red LED) would
flash. If the machine was turned off at the power point
and allowed to cool down, it would then recover and go
back to normal operation.
The day eventually arrived that the flashing red LED
(signalling that the unit had gone into a self-protection
mode) was a permanent feature. I went around to his
place and removed the malfunctioning machine and took
it back to my workshop.
The machine was manufactured in 2005 and has
two switch-mode power supplies on the PSU module
(6870R8300AA). The main one supplies +12V, +5V and
some other minor voltages, while the other supplies the
+35V rail for the surround sound amplifier section. In common with most SMPSs, heat and time affect their reliability.
I tested all the electrolytic capacitors with an ESR
meter, getting a mixture of readings from high to none,
particularly on the smaller value electros. These included
C173, C175 & C176 (all 4.7µF/50V) and C115 & C125
(10µF/50V).There were also some high-ESR electros on
the main PCB: C121, C137 & C138 (all 47µF/50V), all near
voltage regulator IC’s.
Having replaced those, I also replaced the following resistors with 2W metal film types: R104, R105 and R108 (the
220kW start-up resistors), R121 & R130 (both 100kW bleed
resistors) and R138 (the 180W bleed resistor for the +5V rail).
The PSU module was refitted into the machine and then
powered up. The problem was still there! I downloaded a
data sheet for the STRW6753 (power supply IC 104) and
looked at the sample circuit diagram. I decided to order
this IC on eBay as the next move. The IC arrived in the
mail, and I fitted it, but it still did not fix the problem!
There was still something not quite right.
On a hunch, I decided to desolder one leg on every fast
rectifier diode in the main power supply section. I then
tested these for reverse leakage set on the multimeter’s
highest ohms range. When I tested D129 on the +5V rail,
it had some reverse leakage. It was a B10A45V fast diode,
so I substituted one MURF1060 (10A 60V fast diode).
It then worked correctly and did not miss a beat! After
another two days of soak testing, I was confident that
the power supply problem was finally fixed. Trevor was
so pleased with the result that he bought me a carton
of ginger beer and shouted the missus and I lunch at a
nearby pub.
RS-485 network with intermittent faults
N. L. of Taylors Lakes, Vic, had to fix an RS-485 network which was having some odd problems. It turned
78
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
out to be a part that you wouldn’t expect to be at fault...
I was called to a network using an RS-485 physical
layer (cable and interface cards in each machine) with
25 machines per segment and two segments. The two
segments were connected by a network controller which
polled each machine by their assigned network number,
one at a time, up to the last machine numbered 25. The
network controller was connected by USB to the PC, and
then connected to the internet.
The initial fault was that random nodes were not
responding to the network controller at various times.
This occurred on and off for months, and could not be
isolated to a specific machine. Then the faults became
permanent on one node in both segments.
The cable was a 300W shielded pair, but the shielding
was not connected continuously from one length of cable
to the next or terminated on the network controller Earth
either. One blessing the installer bestowed on the system
was the 120W termination resistors were attached at the
last machine on each segment.
Swapping network boards, it was found that the network boards (two boards) on one machine in each segment were faulty. Back at the workshop, testing showed
the boards to be working perfectly.
I decided to change the line interface chip as they
probably get a hiding from the cable. But the fault was
still present with the boards reinstalled; luckily, I only
changed it on one board.
Back at the ranch, I hooked up the Silicon Chip Digital
Audio Signal Generator (March-May 2010; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/1) to deliver a square wave and noted that
at the output of the line interface IC I had changed, it
worked properly. Still, the digital receive signal was not
present at the network board output.
Between the MAX3062E line transceiver chip and the
digital output to the machine microcontroller was an
HCPL-2200 high-speed opto-coupler with a TTL output
which was failing as the switching rate increased.
Of course, replacing the opto-couplers solved the problem on both segments. I also re-cabled the longest segment
with the correct 120W RS-485 cable with a continuous
shield, using the original cable for the recommended reference point connections.
Being differential, I am not sure what the reference
point connection does. My theory is that it protects the
line transceiver IC when one node powers down; any
line over-voltages can dissipate into the powered nodes
supply instead of through the unpowered transceiver’s
internals. I welcome comments on that.
I am now waiting to see how long the incorrect cable
lasts before it gives errors. The customer (and the installer,
whom I know) insists that I am wasting time and money
replacing the cable since the existing one “works OK”.
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G. McD., of Jindalee, Qld got angry at his radio when it
began resetting intermittently. Thankfully, he managed
to calm himself down long enough to find the dodgy connection and fix it...
My patience was pushed to the limit recently when
my trusty Philips portable FM/DAB radio, an AE5230
model, shut down on me for the umpteenth time early
one morning.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 79
All I was doing at the time was trying to increase the volume. The LCD
screen died immediately, then after
what seemed like a full thirty seconds, it lit up once more as details of
the pre-tuned station began flickering
across the screen.
I barely avoided flinging the radio
across the room in frustration. It had
been acting like a temperamental teenager for months. Later that morning,
I decided that enough was enough;
it was time to see if I could fix the
pesky thing.
The first suspect was the DC jack at
the back of the radio. Close inspection
with a headband magnifier showed
nothing obvious. So I had to open the
radio up and delve a little deeper.
I removed five retaining screws
from the rear of the radio’s enclosure, allowing me to take off the back
panel. I then identified the screws
that held the main PCB in place. I
removed these and unclipped the
main power lead.
The on/off switch was now clearly
visible. I removed the two small
securing screws holding the PCB
upon which it was mounted. With the
aid of a strong lamp and my headband
magnifier, I inspected the condition
of the three wires soldered to traces
on the PCB. What I saw wasn’t pretty.
The solder joints looked as though
they had seen better days, and the
wires were coated with some kind of
dried goo.
After desoldering the three wires
(red, white and yellow), I cleaned up
the through holes on the board with the
aid of a solder sucker and refurbished
the ends of the wires. I then cleaned
up everything and soldered the wires
back into place, and returned everything to its original position.
I plugged in power and hit the on/off
switch. All appeared to be working as
it should, so I set it up once more on
my bedside table. But the next morning, around 4:00AM, the radio spat
the proverbial dummy once more. It
was up to its old tricks, I thought, as I
began pondering my next step.
The problem had to lie with the
power supply; I had been trying to
adjust the volume at the time and in
so doing, had moved the radio slightly
to see the dial better. The DC jack was
now my prime suspect.
I placed the radio back on my workbench early the next morning and
opened it up again. The DC jack is
80
Silicon Chip
held in position in much the same
way as the on/off switch, on its own
PCB that is held in place by two small
screws. Once I had removed them, it
was an easy task to slide the PCB out
for inspection.
Under a strong light and with the aid
of my headband magnifier, I noticed
one of the soldered mounting pins
had a hairline crack around its base.
It was immediately evident that this
was a result of stress from the slight
sideways movements caused every
time the plug is inserted or removed.
All I had to do was re-solder the
connections and put everything back
together again — a simple fix to a problem that was not so simple to find. The
radio has behaved itself ever since.
Repairing two laptops that would
not POST
K. D., of Chermside, Qld, writes: in a
previous Serviceman column (August
2014, page 61), I stated that I don’t
believe in coincidences. Following
some recent incidents, I might have
to change my mind.
A friend at a university biochemistry
laboratory told me that two large ultrahigh-speed centrifuges in her laboratory both failed at switch on, within
minutes of each other. Both emitted
smoke and would need repair by the
manufacturer’s technicians. The next
day, at my workplace, two identical
and quite critical refrigerators failed
within 24 hours of each other, having
not missed a beat in over five years.
The third coincidence involved
me, the same friend, and both of our
home computers. It happened only a
week after the coincidental failures at
work. One night, my ageing Dell Vostro
PC simply shut off mid-use. When I
attempted to restart it, the fans all spun
up, but that was it. The computer could
not even generate a beep code from the
power-on self-test (POST).
As I was working at the time, I
decided to leave any further investigation until I had a few days off. Before I
could look at my PC, my friend called
to say that her equally old Dell Inspiron PC wouldn’t switch on. This was
worrying as she didn’t even remember
when the computer was last backed
up, or where the backup was stored.
When she brought it to me, the
symptoms were identical to mine – the
power indicators were on, and the fans
were spinning, but the PC wouldn’t
even get to the POST.
Australia’s electronics magazine
I decided to tackle her Inspiron first.
I checked the voltages from the power
supply, and all were within specification. As the fans ran and responded
to the power button, the motherboard
couldn’t be completely dead. I disconnected everything possible from
the motherboard and removed the
memory modules and graphics card.
The machine could still not get to the
POST.
On the off-chance that the BIOS had
been corrupted, I removed the CMOS
battery and turned on the power. At
last, the machine gave four beeps,
indicating that there was no memory.
I fitted a new CR2032 cell and reconnected everything I had disconnected.
The computer told me the BIOS had
been changed and that the date and
time were invalid. I was prompted to
press ‘F1 for defaults’ or ‘F2 to setup’.
I pressed F2, and the PC hung with
an “ME unconfiguration in progress”
message. ME means the management
engine for the BIOS. This behaviour
was reproducible when turning the
computer on and off – pressing F2
wouldn’t get me into the BIOS.
After the first power cycle, though,
I had an option of pressing F12 for
boot devices. Pressing F12 got me
into the BIOS. All the settings looked
usable except for the date and time.
After setting those details and a ‘save
& exit’, Windows started normally,
and the computer was fixed. It was
sent back along with some unparliamentary language about the need for
regular backups.
My Vostro has had a hard life, but it
had the same symptoms as the Inspiron and I hoped it also had the same
easily-fixed problem. So, I removed
the CMOS battery and applied power,
and that is where the similarity with
the Inspiron ended. The computer
still would not reach the POST. I progressively removed parts and applied
power each time.
When I removed the four 2GB memory modules, the POST test ran and
indicated that the memory was missing. I fitted four replacement modules
from a defunct Vostro obtained from
a friend and reconnected everything.
Pressing F2 at startup allowed me to
reset the date and time in the BIOS
and check that 8GB of memory was
being detected.
Windows then started normally,
and another veteran computer was
returned to service.
SC
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eptember2021
2021 81
FSEBRUARY
37
Micromite to Smartphone
Connector via Bluetooth
By Tom Hartley
This project demonstrates how to use a Micromite as the heart of an
IoT (Internet of Things) device. But there are many other reasons you
might wish to connect a Micromite to your Android smartphone, such as
making it easy to monitor what your device is doing without going to the
trouble or expense of fitting it with an LCD screen. It also makes it really
Phone Image Source:
easy to control the software running on the Micromite.
Android Open Source project
T
he Micromite Mk2 (January 2015;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/8243)
is a great way to get into programming
microcontrollers, because you need
so little to get it up and running, and
the BASIC language it uses is easy to
learn. But to make the most of it, you
really need some sort of screen.
That’s why the Micromite LCD BackPack series (starting in February 2016)
has been so popular. It combines the
Micromite with a colour touchscreen,
giving you an easy way to interact with
the device and display information.
But that arrangement is considerably
more expensive and complex, and a
separate screen isn’t always required.
The Circuit Notebook section of the
May 2015 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/8395) showed how low-cost
Bluetooth modules could be used to
allow two Micromites to communicate without wires. But what about
using such a module to interface with
a smartphone?
That way, the phone becomes the
user interface to the Micromite, so you
can get away with a much simpler and
cheaper arrangement – assuming you
already have a suitable phone.
And since smartphones generally
have a connection to the internet, the
Micromite can become an IoT (internet of things) device and easily share
data with other devices.
This article explains how to connect
a bare Micromite chip to an Android
mobile phone to communicate and
82
Silicon Chip
display data without using a screen.
You can even communicate with the
Micromite’s terminal output data
stream using an Android app, sending
it BASIC commands and so on.
Basic arrangement
After programming a 28-pin Micromite chip via the conventional PC USB
connection, I was able to disconnect it
from the PC and transmit the Micromite’s terminal output data stream
over Bluetooth to an Android App,
running on an inexpensive mobile
phone.
The design requires very few components:
1) A smartphone running some version of the Android operating
system.
2) A 28-pin Micromite PIC chip
loaded with MMBasic, and a tantalum or ceramic capacitor for
the Vcap pin, as recommended by
Geoff Graham.
3) An HC-05 Bluetooth module,
preferably one with an Enable
pushbutton key.
4) A USB to TTL converter (eg, one
based on the ubiquitous CP2102
chip).
5) A short USB extension cable.
6) A BMP180 atmospheric pressure
sensor (for this particular demonstration application).
7) A four-AA battery holder modified by tapping the output voltages at 3V and 4.5V. The fourth
cell is not needed, so that position can be left empty.
8) A small piece of Veroboard.
9) Some hook-up wire.
Bluetooth module setup
The first job is to configure the
Bluetooth module as required by this
Fig.1: the HC-05 Bluetooth
transceiver module is wired up to
a USB-UART bridge and battery
pack so that the Bluetooth module
can be set up using a PC.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
project. The HC-05 Bluetooth module has many similarities to a modem,
and the procedure to set it up will be
familiar if you have ever set up serial
communications to a modem.
Before you can do this, you will
need to install a serial terminal program on your computer. For Windows
users, Tera Term appears to be the most
favoured. For Linux users, the PuTTY
SSH Client is recommended. Download and install this software.
Now we need to send the Bluetooth
module the appropriate commands to
set up the baud rate etc. These are sent
as ‘AT’ commands. To do this, you
have to connect the module to your
computer as per Fig.2.
Connect the USB-serial adaptor,
HC-05 Bluetooth module and battery
pack as shown in Fig.2. Start the terminal program on your PC and plug
the USB to TTL converter into a convenient USB port. This will power up
the USB to TTL converter but will not
power up the HC-05 module.
The terminal software will require
information about which USB port it
should connect to. You can find this
in Windows using the Device Manager. In Linux, when there are no
other USB devices plugged into the
computer, then the usual USB port is
/dev/ttyUSB0.
Once you have set that, hold down
the button on the HC-05 module and
turn the switch on the battery box to
the ‘ON’ position. Wait a couple of seconds before releasing the button. The
red LED on the HC-05 module should
flash slowly.
Now type “AT” on your computer
terminal program and press Enter, the
module should respond with “OK”. If
it does not, there is probably a baud
rate mismatch so check that the terminal is communicating with the HC-05
at 9600 baud, 8 bits, no parity, one stop
bit, no flow control (often described
as “8-N-1”).
Also, the Enter key on your PC must
be mapped as a carriage return plus
line feed, usually signified in the terminal software as CR/LF. The other
baud rate to try is 38,400. Different
manufacturers have different default
baud rates on first use. Once you get
the OK, you can proceed to enter these
two commands:
AT+UART=38400,1,0
AT+NAME=MMITE01
You should get an OK after each one.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: you need to change some settings in the HC-05 Bluetooth module before
using it, via serial commands from a computer. This is how you can connect it
up in order to do that. The suggested wiring is in Fig.1.
Fig.3: this minimal circuit is all you need to load the MMBasic firmware onto a
PIC32, turning it into a Micromite. You can save yourself the hassle by getting a
pre-programmed chip from our Online Shop.
If you don’t, you might have a different
version of the HC-05 Bluetooth module; see the panel below.
Next, check that the settings have
been recorded by typing “AT+UART”
and pressing enter, which should
provide the response “38400,1,0”.
Then type “AT+NAME” and press
enter; you should give the response
“MMITE01”.
Power off the circuit and install the
HC-05 in the test rig described in the
next section.
Next, install the Bluetooth Terminal
app by Kai Morich on the smartphone.
You can download it from siliconchip.
com.au/link/ab8y
Building the circuit
Fig.3 shows how to load the firmware onto the PIC32 chip using a
PICkit if it is not already loaded (or
you can purchase a pre-programmed
microcontroller).
Fig.4 is the minimal circuit to build
so that you can interface with the
Alternative versions of the Bluetooth module
We have seen online sellers listing various versions of the HC-05 including the
“original” version (likely the one described in this article), a “new” or “revised”
version and the HC-06.
We ordered some of the new/revised HC-05 modules to try out. They look
much the same as the original HC-05, and if you order one from a seller who
doesn’t make the distinction, that may well be the one you receive.
The new/revised version worked as described in this article, except that it
did not respond to the “AT” commands listed in this article at all. However, it
seemed to default to 38,400 baud, so we were able to communicate with a
Micromite simply by wiring it up and setting that as the baud rate.
We haven’t tried the HC-06, but chances are it works much the same way.
You might just need to experiment with the baud rate if you cannot communicate with it after selecting 38,400 baud.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 83
Fig.4: the minimal circuit to communicate with the Micromite over USB, using a
USB/Serial adaptor.
Fig.5: by adding a BMP180-based temperature/pressure sensor module as well
as the HC-05 Bluetooth module to the Micromite, we can turn it into something
useful. It now reports atmospheric data on the smartphone screen via a terminal
App.
The test rig connected to a Micromite Explore-28 which was built on a
breadboard. This setup should easily work with the Micromite BackPacks and
Explore-28, assuming the requisite pins are free.
84
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
Micromite running MMBasic.
However, you won’t be able to do
much with such a basic configuration,
so we will describe how to get the circuit shown in Fig.5 up and running.
This includes a BMP180 temperature/
atmospheric pressure sensor so it can
actually do something useful.
Note that with the Tx/TxD lines of
the two serial modules in parallel, you
can only have one active at a time.
That's assuming that the inactive module is not driving its Tx line actively,
which is the case with the HC-05 and
USB-serial modules I used, but might
not be true for all such devices. If both
Tx lines are active at the same time,
it's unlikely anything will be damaged
(although not impossible), but it certainly isn't going to work as they will
fight each other.
While Fig.4 shows both a USBserial and Bluetooth adaptor, you don't
need both; the USB-Serial module is
intended mainly for testing and can
be left off once you're confident that
the HC-05 is working. Also, you don't
need to connect the BMP180 module;
it's simply there to demonstrate what
you can do. Modify the circuit to suit
your requirements.
The BMP180 sensor communicates
using an I2C serial bus, so it is connected to pins 17 and 18 as shown in
Fig.5. It also needs a ground connection and a +3V connection. As before,
the 4.5V tap on the battery pack is only
required to run the HC-05 module.
Connect the test rig setup to your
PC and terminal program via the USBTTL converter.
We have based the software for this
demonstration project on the program
written by Jim Rowe for the December
2017 article on the GY-68 module with
the BMP180 chip. It can be found at
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/4521
The revised version is named
“BMP180 barometer check prog console only.bas” and is available for
download from the Silicon Chip website associated with this article. The
only real change is that all lines which
pertain to formatting and/or displaying information on the LCD screen
have been removed. Instead, it simply prints the data obtained from the
BMP180 chip on the console using
PRINT commands.
Run the program and confirm that it
all performs correctly in the usual PC
terminal mode. Then shut down the PC
terminal and unplug your test rig from
siliconchip.com.au
the PC’s USB port. Install the Bluetooth
Terminal App on your mobile phone
(if you haven’t already).
Power up the test rig. Notice that the
red LED on the HC-05 module is flashing rapidly. Follow the instructions
for connecting a Bluetooth device to
the Bluetooth Terminal App on your
phone.
The steps involve registering the
HC-05 in your phone’s Bluetooth
devices list. It will first show up as an
alphanumeric address similar to an IP
address but segmented into several
pairs of hexadecimal characters. Once
you provide the password of 0000 or
1234, your HC-05 should then appear
on the list as MMITE01.
Now return to the Bluetooth Serial
App on the phone and connect to the
MMITE01 adaptor. Successful connection to the HC-05 will be detectable
by the flashing LED having slowed
down considerably. The App should
also display precisely what you have
previously seen on your PC’s terminal program.
If not, turn the test rig off and on
again. When you turn off the test
rig, the Bluetooth Terminal App will
report it has lost the connection. Just
tap on the connect icon in the App,
and it should reconnect without any
further need for your inputs or adjustments.
Screen 1 shows a typical display
on the mobile phone when connected
to the Micromite via Bluetooth. This
particular App can log received text,
so data coming across from the test rig
can be saved.
Another advantage of using this particular Bluetooth Terminal App is that
it adds the current date and time to
every line of data received, making it
unnecessary to build an RTC module
into your circuit. In fact, now that the
data is in your phone, you can exploit
the fact that your phone is, in reality, a
very sophisticated computer and display resource.
For example, you can now write
your own Android Phone Apps using
MIT App Inventor (ai2.appinventor.
mit.edu) because that tool has a Bluetooth connectivity module as a standard built-in item. See our article
explaining how to use App Inventor in
the February 2021 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/14750).
Python programs run well on mobile
phones, so that provides another
opportunity for enhancing the usefulness of your data collected by the
Micromite.
Another possibility is to install a
web server on your Android phone,
such as KickWeb (siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab8z). That way, you can use
PHP scripts or continuously looping
Python programs to forward sensor
derived data to services such as Thingspeak (www.thingspeak.com) where
your data can be displayed graphically and made available across the
SC
whole internet.
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If possible you should try to purchase
a HC-05 module which has an “Enable
pushbutton” key, as shown at the
upper left of this photo. This specific
HC-05 is a HiLetgo branded version.
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 1: a very basic display of local
barometric pressure (in hectopascals
[hPa]) in the smartphone terminal
app, delivered by the Micromite. By
changing the Micromite BASIC code
and hardware, you can get it to report
just about anything you want!
Australia’s electronics magazine
Tiny LED Cane
84 x 60mm PCB
SC5693 – $3.00
We also sell a kit containing all
required components for just
$14 per board ➟ SC5579
September 2021 85
Allan Linton-Smith reviews an $80 ebay “bargain”
tinySA: a
0.1MHz
to 960MHz
Spectrum Analyser
I bought this “tinySA” spectrum analyser/signal generator
on ebay for just $80 including delivery! It is a standalone device which
can be connected to a computer for recharging and reprogramming.
W
hile oscilloscopes are used
to measure and view signal
amplitude (voltage) vs time,
a spectrum analyser is used to measure and view a signal amplitude vs
frequency.
Like oscilloscopes, over time, cheaper
and smaller spectrum analysers are
becoming available.
When I spotted the tinySA for sale, I
had to get one as I use spectrum analysers often, and I wanted to know if a
device this cheap was any good.
It is a standalone device and is connected to a computer or USB charger. It
can be programmed using tinySA software from www.tinysa.org/wiki/
It arrived neatly packed in a cardboard box with a lid and included two
SMA cables, an SMA female-female
converter, a small 10-30cm telescopic
antenna and a USB Type-C charging
cable.
It comes in a nice little pocket-sized
black enclosure and has two SMA connectors; one is the high-frequency input
86
Silicon Chip
or output (260-960MHz), while the
other is the input or output for lower
frequency signals, down to 100kHz.
It does not have a tracking generator;
it is merely switched between analysis
mode or generator mode. However, it
can be used for plotting RF frequency
response using the “max hold” setting
and an external sweep generator.
It worked straight out of the box. It’s
remarkably accurate too, and we didn’t
even have to charge it straight away.
RF Spectrum Analysers are usually
very expensive devices, often costing
thousands of dollars (even old preloved ones).
Australia’s electronics magazine
So for $80, this seems like an excellent deal. And while some cheap modules we’ve tried either didn’t work at
all or instantly self-destructed, this one
gave useful readings immediately.
Using it
If you have ever used a “real”
benchtop spectrum analyser, you will
know that they may need a significant
warm-up time and a lot of setting up.
But this one required almost no
adjustment. The resolution bandwidth
(RBW) and reference level were set automatically, and the instrument discovered a signal immediately!
Spectrum analysers definitely require
a bit more ‘tuning’ than an Oscilloscope,
but this little device makes life easy.
Except for RF enthusiasts, most of us
don’t really need an RF spectrum analyser all that often. But when you need
one, you need it. So it makes sense to
not spend heaps on a benchtop unit
which will just be gathering dust for
99.9% of the time.
siliconchip.com.au
So if you are an experienced spectrum analyser operator, you will be able
to use this device straight away. If you
are a beginner, we will get you started
with a few easy examples and practical
applications.
It sounds simple to use a spectrum
analyser, but you need to set up some
basic settings such as the frequency
range you wish to examine and the resolution you require to analyse signals
which may be close together.
For example, if you wish to view an
AM signal modulated with a 10kHz signal, you must use an RBW (resolution
bandwidth) less than 10kHz. Otherwise,
you will only see the carrier frequency
and not the sidebands.
Many readers will be familiar with
modern oscilloscopes which can automatically set and display a trace. But
with spectrum analysers, you have to
tell it which signal or band (amongst
many) you wish to examine.
If you know your signal is around
10MHz, then you just set the centre
frequency at 10MHz and the span for
say 2MHz.
Features & specifications
• Low-cost, compact device.
• Spectrum analyser and signal generator modes (cannot be used at the same time).
• Two spectrum analyser inputs: MF/HF/VHF (0.1MHZ-350MHz) and
UHF (240-960MHz).
• Selectable resolution bandwidth (RBW) for both inputs, 2.6-640kHz.
• Colour display showing 290 scan points up to the full low or high frequency range.
• Input step attenuator of 0-31dB for the MF/HF/VHF input.
• Two signal generator outputs: MF/HF/VHF sinewave output 100kHz to
350MHz; UHF square wave output 240-960MHz.
• Automatic self-test and low-frequency input calibration.
• USB socket allows it to act as a PC-controlled spectrum analyser.
• Rechargeable battery lasts at least two hours.
A marker will appear, telling you
the exact frequency of the strongest
detected signal in that range, and its
amplitude.
This particular instrument has a specified range of 100kHz to 960MHz, which
will meet most hobbyists’ needs. But
it has some limitations that you need
to be aware of.
Limitations
For a start, you must be careful what
you hook up to its inputs.
The signal level cannot exceed
10dBm or 700mV AC (10mW into 50Ω),
or you could damage it. Importantly,
you also need to avoid applying any
DC voltage to the inputs.
Spectrum analysers are really sensitive devices, so it’s a good idea to
always use it with an external attenuator until you are sure the signal is safe for a direct connection.
SMA 20dB attenuators are available
Here the “Tiny SA” is measuring a -30 dBm signal from an RF generator at 300.1MHz. The centre frequency was set at
300MHz and the resolution bandwidth set at 362KHz. The scan took 132 milliseconds to complete.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 87
The tinySA’s
display when fed
with a 25MHz
-30dBm carrier
with 10kHz,
50% amplitude
modulation. RBW
was automatically
set to 3.1kHz, its
best resolution.
The delta reading
is 10.047kHz,
and the carrier
is shown as
-28.7dBm, which
is pretty good
accuracy.
We used this
low-cost,
low-noise
RF preamplifier
in combination with
the tinySA analyser
to detect signals down to
-125dbm. That is about the
minimum signal which expensive
benchtop analysers can detect.
for around $20 on ebay and similar
sites.
The displayed average noise level
(DANL) is -105dBm, and that is the
lowest detectable signal level.
This changes depending on the resolution bandwidth. A lower bandwidth
setting gives a lower noise level.
More expensive spectrum analysers
can often digitise a broad frequency
range at once using an FFT (fast Fourier transform) technique. But the
tinySA uses a resolution filter which
is swept across the desired frequency
range (just like tuning a radio).
The oscillator that does the sweeping, together with the power detector
that measures the signal power, require
some settling time, and the scanning
speed of the tinySA is limited.
The narrower the filter, the more
time it needs to settle. The fastest
scanning speed occurs with RBW set
to 300kHz or wider, and is about two
scans per second. But with increased
frequency span and/or decreased
RBW, the scanning speed decreases.
For example, a scan from 0-350MHz
with RBW set to 10kHz takes about
two minutes.
Also, due to the low cost and very
small form factor, you will find that
the analyser sometimes develops spurious peaks called ‘spurs’ which can
be attenuated by various settings, such
as “spur reduction”.
Other limitations are the lack of
resolution bandwidth settings below
3.1kHz, and that signals in close proximity are impossible to resolve.
The same signal as
above, but fed to
a more expensive
spectrum analyser
with ten times better
resolution. The
result is smoother
and more accurate.
This instrument
weights 28kg,
though, so it isn’t
easy to hold in one
hand!
The tinySA’s
start and stop
frequencies were
set to 88MHz and
108MHz, and the
supplied 30cm
aerial connected to
capture FM radio
stations in Sydney.
In waterfall
mode, each peak
is recorded, and
you can see the
regular intervals
between stations.
The marker sits on
the most powerful
radio signal,
104.12MHz (2DAY
FM).
88
Silicon Chip
Conclusion
While the tinySA is a handy little
instrument, it is a bit limited compared
to a bigger, more expensive spectrum
analyser. As they say, there ain’t no
such thing as a free lunch!
Still, if you don’t have a spectrum
analyser and don’t want to spend lots
on buying one, it would be a great
choice to start in the field of frequency
domain analysis.
SC
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The tinySA was
fed with a 1MHz
signal from a
function generator,
and a THD
(total harmonic
distortion)
measurement was
made. This shows
the THD for the
oscillator as 0.2%.
This measurement
was made by
averaging 16 traces.
The display is
difficult to read
because the other
measurements
partly obscure it,
but it is handy all
the same.
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A 1MHz signal
from a function
generator was
analysed using
the “harmonic”
measurement
setting, rather
than the THD
setting, and
the results
are a bit more
revealing. The
first harmonic is
shown as -60.5dB
and the second
harmonic as
-57dB below the
fundamental.
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The tinySA’s signal
generator was set to
10MHz -15dBm and
fed to a benchtop
spectrum analyser,
and here is the
resulting plot. The
first harmonic is
-56.2dB, and the
second harmonic is
-46dB relative to the
fundamental. That’s
almost as good as our
benchtop function
generator!
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 89
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Multiple RAM banks for the IR Remote Control Assistant
90
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I liked the idea of recording macros
using your IR Remote Control Assistant (July 2020; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14505), but I wanted more than
eight buttons so that I could merge several remote controls into one.
As I could not change the firmware to add extra buttons, I decided
to switch the RAM chip instead. Each
chip holds IR code sequences for up
to eight pushbutton switches.
To do this, I added a small PCB (34
x 31mm) which sits over the existing
PCB and holds the extra RAM chips,
plus a switch to select which one is in
use at any given time.
There is a choice to expand the
Remote to 16 buttons, using a DPDT
switch (S2) and one more RAM chip
(IC3), or 24 buttons, using a 3PST
switch (S1) and two extra RAM chips
(IC3 & IC4). The PCB has provision for
either switch, as shown on the circuit
diagram.
The 100kW resistors pull the unused
RAM chip CS lines high, disabling the
unused chips and maintaining the low
current drain on the battery. Switch S1
or S2 pulls one CS line low at a time,
enabling the selected chip.
The Gerber files for the add-on board
can be download from siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/10/5913
Robbie Adams,
Tauranga, New Zealand. ($100)
The IR Remote Assistant PCB
needs the track cut between
pin 10 of IC1 and pin 1 of IC2.
This location can be seen in the
diagram at right. The addon
PCB is then seated on top of
this main PCB, as shown above.
Solar garden light uses supercapacitor
We purchased quite a few solar garden lights which each have a small
solar panel and a battery to store the
energy collected during the day, powering a small LED for 5-6 hours at night.
These worked well for one year, then
the battery started deteriorating, and
finally it stopped working altogether.
So I thought, why not replace the
battery with a supercapacitor? From
a good supercapacitor, you can expect
a lifetime of 20 years, irrespective of
the number of charge cycles while a
storage battery has a maximum life of
2000-5000 cycles.
I built this circuit with three LEDs,
and it runs for a whole night without
totally discharging the capacitor. The
supercap is charged from the cell via
schottky diode D1, which was chosen
due to its low forward voltage drop.
While there is voltage across the cell,
siliconchip.com.au
PNP transistor Q1 is held off as its base
is pulled up close to its emitter.
At night, current can flow in reverse
through the cell. D1 stops the supercap from discharging through this
path, but the base current for Q1 flows
through the 5.6kW resistor and the cell,
powering the LEDs. The 470W resistor
limits their current to around 4mA
([5V – 3V] ÷ 470W). All the components cost me less than $4.
Editor’s note: keep in mind that the
energy storage of the supercap is considerably lower than even a relatively
small rechargeable battery. While the
LEDs probably will produce light for
many hours, they will be quite dim
after about one hour, with the current
dropping from about 4mA initially
down to around 1mA after 60 minutes.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($80)
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 91
1-2-5 switching arrangements
Many instruments offer adjustment
in period or frequency range in 1-2-5
steps across a single decade as a knob
or switch is changed.
It is usually followed by a 10-20-50
in the next decade and so on through
subsequent decades. The 1-2-5 relationship makes sense as it approximates a geometrical progression across
the decade with just three steps, with
the step multipliers being 2x, 2.5x
and then 2x.
As the period for monostable and
astable circuitry is determined as a
product of some factor times a resistance, it would be helpful to have a
simple way to create resistance values inversely proportional to these
steps.
This can be done efficiently with
either a centre-off single-pole toggle
switch or a 3-pin header with a single
jumper/shorting block.
With the switch set to centre off (or
the link removed), the only component connected between IN and OUT
is the 5kW resistance. With the switch
in the up (or link 1-to-2) position, the
5kW resistance is in parallel with the
3.333kW resistance, giving 2kW.
With the switch in the down position (or link 3-to-1), the 5kW is in parallel with 1.25kW for an equivalent
value of 1kW.
Sourcing accurate 5kW, 3.333kW
and 1.25kW resistors is not easy. But
if we use a total of 13 resistors of the
same value, we can get theoretically
13 100kW resistors soldered to a toggle
switch, giving 1-2-5 resistance steps.
Simple tripwire alarm
I wanted an alarm that was so simple
that (almost) anyone could use it without instructions. The result is a simple yet versatile circuit that stopped
an intrusion into my car in its first
week of use.
It activates a powerful siren (the
load, between C and D) for 70 seconds
if someone disturbs a wire, ie, if the
circuit is broken between points A and
B. This can be multi-strand wire with
bared ends twisted together, making
it easy to separate.
Alternatively, a piece of string may
be tensioned such that it separates the
wire when flexed.
With the tripwire intact, the charge
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
92
Silicon Chip
across the 3300μF capacitor is limited
to less than 1V by the current flowing
through diode D1. This is insufficient
to switch Mosfet Q1 on, and Mosfet
Q2 is held off by the tripwire keeping its gate voltage low, so the siren is
not powered.
Once the circuit is broken between
A and B, the gate of Mosfet Q2 is immediately pulled up by the 100kW resistor
and the siren switches on. The 3300μF
capacitor can then charge, and eventually the gate voltage of Mosfet Q1 rises
high enough to switch it on, pulling
the gate of Q2 low and silencing the
siren after about 70 seconds.
Connect points A and B again, and
perfect values by arranging them in
parallel sets.
We can create the 5kW value with
two 10kW resistors in parallel, the
3.333kW value by putting three 10kW
resistors in parallel and the 1.25kW
value by putting eight 10kW resistors in
parallel. As 1% resistors are cheap, the
only real disadvantage of this method
is the space required.
If a single-pole centre-off switch is
used, all these resistors can be soldered to the appropriate terminals of
the switch on a front panel, and this
makes it a simple way to change the
period (or frequency) by a factor of 1,
2 or 5 with just one switch.
Fewer resistors can also be used if
you’re willing to accept slight errors.
For 3.333kW, you can use 3.9kW in
parallel with a 22kW (an error of just
0.6%). For 1.25kW, we can use 1.5kW
in parallel with two 15kW resistors,
which is an exact match.
You can also scale all the resistor
values by the same amount, eg, use sets
of 1kW or 100kW resistors instead of
10kW. The accompanying photo shows
13 100kW resistors soldered to a toggle
switch as suggested above.
Barry Moore,
Minto, NSW. ($80)
without a squeak, the circuit is ready
for another round.
In the interests of simplicity, I
wanted an alarm without an on/off
switch or reset switch. If desired, one
may simply clip the circuit onto a 12V
battery, and it is ready to go.
Three possible scenarios are shown
below the circuit diagram. In the first,
the alarm is powered up, the tripwire
broken and the siren sounds for the
full 70 seconds, then times out. The
second is identical except that the tripwire is reconnected before the timeout,
and the siren is immediately silenced.
In the third case, points A & B are
never connected, and power to the circuit is simply switched on to power
the siren for a fixed period.
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to
feature it in Circuit Notebook. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to
your PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online
Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit
and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Letterbox counter
This circuit starts counting when
someone inserts a letter in the letterbox
at your home or office. It is designed
to save you time from going to the
letterbox to check if there are letters
inside. The number of letters present
in the box is indicated on a seven-segment display.
It uses a white LED (LED1), an LDR,
a 555 timer (IC1) in monostable mode,
a 4033 seven-segment driver chip (IC2)
and a few other components.
LED1 and LDR1 together work as a
sensor. The resistance of LDR1 changes
in accordance with the intensity of
incident light on it.
When light from LED1 falls on
LDR1, its resistance is low. So when
the light beam is broken, the voltage
at pin 2 of IC1 is low; otherwise, it
is high.
When a letter is inserted into the
letterbox, it passes between LED1 and
LDR1. This change in resistance provides a triggering pulse to pin 2 of IC1,
generating a short-duration pulse at its
output pin 3.
This pulse acts as the clock input
for the 4033 counter and display
driver, IC2.
The output pins of IC2 are connected to various segments a, b, c, d,
e, f and g pins of the seven-segment
display, with the common pin of the
display connected to ground. Each
segment has its own current-limiting
resistor for consistent brightness.
When a letter is delivered to the
letterbox, LED2 momentarily glows,
which indicates that a letter is
received, and the displayed count
increases by one.
When the counter reaches nine, it
resets to zero and the cycle repeats.
Switch S1 is used to reset the counter
when you fetch the letters.
Raj. K. Gorkhali,
Hetauda, Nepal. ($60)
The gate threshold voltages of Mosfets Q1 and Q2 are fairly critical. To
avoid complications, I chose identical
transistors. Even so, component tolerances may vary. If the alarm does
not decisively turn off, or if current
consumption does not fall to about
0.25mA when A and B are closed,
insert another diode in series with D1
to raise the voltage at Q1’s gate.
Almost any 12V battery may be
used as long as it supports the load.
Q2 can handle loads up to 74W. But
note that a heatsink will be required
for heavier loads.
For driving a standard piezo siren,
it will require no heatsink, as they
only draw a few watts. One could also
switch on a 12V lamp if desired.
This circuit will remain on standby
for about eight months using a small
12V 1.4Ah gel battery. A battery pack
of alkaline AA cells may be used for
a similar period of service.
Thomas Scarborough,
Cape Town, South Africa. ($75)
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 93
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- EA2-5NU relay (PIC Programming Helper, Jun21)
$3.00
- VK2828U7G5LF GPS module (Advanced GPS Computer, Jun21)
$25.00
- MCP4251-502E/P (PIC Programming Helper, Jun21)
$3.00
- 2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module (Lab Supply, May21)
$22.50
- Spin FV-1 digital effects IC (Digital FX Unit, Apr21)
$40.00
- 15mW 3W SMD resistor (Battery Multi Logger / Arduino PSU, Feb21)
$2.50
- DS3231(M) real-time clock SMD IC (Battery Multi Logger, Feb21)
$3.00
- Pair of CSD18534 transistors (Electronic Wind Chimes, Feb21)
$6.00
- IPP80P03P4L04 (Dual Battery Lifesaver / Vintage Radio Supply, Dec20)
$5.00
- 16x2 LCD module (Digital RF Power Meter, Aug20)
$7.50
- WS2812 8x8 RGB LED matrix module (Ol’ Timer II, Jul20)
$15.00
- MAX038 function generator IC (H-Field Transanalyser, May20)
$25.00
- MC1496P double-balanced mixer IC (H-Field Transanalyser, May20)
$2.50
- AD8495 thermocouple interface (DIY Reflow Oven Controller, Apr20)
$10.00
- Si8751AB 2.5kV isolated Mosfet driver IC (Charge Controller, Dec19)
$5.00
- I/O expander modules (Nov19):
PCA9685 – $6.00 ¦ PCF8574 – $3.00 ¦ MCP23017 – $3.00
- SMD 1206 LEDs, packets of 10 unless stated otherwise (Xmas Ornaments, Nov20):
yellow – $0.70 ¦ amber – $0.70 ¦ blue – $0.70 ¦ cyan – $1.00 ¦ pink (1 only) – $0.20
- ISD1820-based voice recorder / playback module (Junk Mail, Aug19)
$4.00
- 23LCV1024-I/P SRAM & MCP73831T (UHF Repeater, May19)
$11.50
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB M&K Adapator, Feb19)
$1.50
- ESP-01 WiFi Module (El Cheapo Modules, Apr18)
$5.00
- VS1053 Geeetech Arduino MP3 shield (Arduino Music Player, Jul17)
$20.00
- DS3231 real-time clock module with mounting hardware (El Cheapo, Oct16) $5.00
- CP2102 USB-UART bridge
$5.00
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable.
# P&P prices are within Australia. Overseas? Place an order on our website for a quote.
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
DOOR ALARM
STEAM WHISTLE / DIESEL HORN
DCC PROGRAMMER (INC. HEADERS)
↳ WITHOUT HEADERS
OPTO-ISOLATED RELAY (INC. EXT. BOARDS)
GPS-SYNCHED FREQUENCY REFERENCE
LED CHRISTMAS TREE
DIGITAL INTERFACE MODULE
TINNITUS/INSOMNIA KILLER (JAYCAR VERSION)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
HIGH-SENSITIVITY MAGNETOMETER
USELESS BOX
FOUR-CHANNEL DC FAN & PUMP CONTROLLER
ATtiny816 DEVELOPMENT/BREAKOUT PCB
ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
DAB+/FM/AM RADIO
↳ CASE PIECES (CLEAR)
REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER MAIN PCB
↳ MOUNTING PLATE
↳ EXTENSION PCB
MOTION SENSING SWITCH (SMD) PCB
USB MOUSE AND KEYBOARD ADAPTOR PCB
LOW-NOISE STEREO PREAMP MAIN PCB
↳ INPUT SELECTOR PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
DIODE CURVE PLOTTER
↳ UB3 LID (MATTE BLACK)
FLIP-DOT (SET OF ALL FOUR PCBs)
↳ COIL PCB
↳ PIXEL PCB (16 PIXELS)
↳ FRAME PCB (8 FRAMES)
↳ DRIVER PCB
iCESTICK VGA ADAPTOR
UHF DATA REPEATER
AMPLIFIER BRIDGE ADAPTOR
3.5-INCH LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
DSP CROSSOVER (ALL PCBs – TWO DACs)
↳ ADC PCB
↳ DAC PCB
↳ CPU PCB
↳ PSU PCB
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
↳ CASE PIECES (MATTE BLACK)
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL PCB
↳ MOSFET PCB (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER PCB
↳ HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
HIGH RESOLUTION AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
SUPER-9 FM RADIO PCB SET
↳ CASE PIECES & DIAL
TINY LED XMAS TREE (GREEN/RED/WHITE)
HIGH POWER LINEAR BENCH SUPPLY
↳ HEATSINK SPACER (BLACK)
DIGITAL PANEL METER / USB DISPLAY
↳ ACRYLIC BEZEL (BLACK)
UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
BOOKSHELF SPEAKER PASSIVE CROSSOVER
↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
ARDUINO DCC BASE STATION
NUTUBE VALVE PREAMPLIFIER
DATE
AUG18
SEP18
OCT18
OCT18
OCT18
NOV18
NOV18
NOV18
NOV18
NOV18
DEC18
DEC18
DEC18
JAN19
JAN19
JAN19
JAN19
FEB19
FEB19
FEB19
FEB19
FEB19
MAR19
MAR19
MAR19
MAR19
MAR19
APR19
APR19
APR19
APR19
APR19
APR19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
JUN19
JUN19
JUN19
JUN19
JUL19
JUL19
JUL19
AUG19
AUG19
AUG19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
OCT19
OCT19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
DEC19
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
PCB CODE
03107181
09106181
SC4716
09107181
10107181/2
04107181
16107181
16107182
01110181
01110182
04101011
08111181
05108181
24110181
24107181
06112181
SC4849
10111191
10111192
10111193
05102191
24311181
01111119
01111112
01111113
04112181
SC4927
SC4950
19111181
19111182
19111183
19111184
02103191
15004191
01105191
24111181
SC5023
01106191
01106192
01106193
01106194
01106195
01106196
05105191
01104191
SC4987
04106191
01106191
05106191
05106192
07106191
05107191
16106191
11109191
11109192
07108191
01110191
01110192
16109191
04108191
04107191
06109181-5
SC5166
16111191
18111181
SC5168
18111182
SC5167
14107191
01101201
01101202
09207181
01112191
Price
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$25.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$17.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$40.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$25.00
$25.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS)
DATE
JAN20
FEB20
FEB20
MAR20
MAR20
MAR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
MAY20
MAY20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
AUG20
NOV20
AUG20
AUG20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
OCT20
OCT20
OCT20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
DEC20
DEC20
DEC20
JAN21
JAN21
JAN21
FEB21
FEB21
FEB21
MAR21
MAR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
MAY21
MAY21
MAY21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUL21
JUL21
JUL21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
PCB CODE
06110191
27111191
01106192-6
01102201
21109181
21109182
01106193/5/6
01104201
01104202
CSE200103
06102201
05105201
04104201
04104202
01005201
01005202
07107201
SC5500
19104201
SC5448
15005201
15005202
01106201
01106202
18105201
04106201
04105201
04105202
08110201
01110201
01110202
24106121
16110202
16110203
16111191-9
16109201
16109202
16110201
16110204
11111201
11111202
16110205
CSE200902A
01109201
16112201
11106201
23011201
18106201
14102211
24102211
10102211
01102211
01102212
23101211
23101212
18104211
18104212
10103211
05102211
24106211
24106212
08105211
CSE210301C
11006211
09108211
07108211
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
Price
$2.50
$5.00
$20.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$1.50
$5.00
$20.00
$20.00
$3.00
$12.50
$12.50
$5.00
$2.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$35.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
SEP21
SEP21
01103191
01103192
$12.50
$2.50
NEW PCBs
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
We also sell an A2 Reactance Wallchart, RTV&H DVD, Vintage Radio DVD plus various books at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
Vintage Television
Sanyo’s
Sanyo’s 8-P2
8-P2 TV
TV (1962)
(1962) and
and
horizontal
horizontal linearity
linearity
By Dr Hugo Holden
O
The early 1960s was a boom time in the
television industry, as semiconductor-based
compact and portable TV sets were gaining in
popularity. Many of these could be powered
by either onboard batteries or an external 12V
supply. Valve TVs were rapidly becoming
obsolete, and transistors started to fill the role
of valves in demanding applications.
96
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
ne of the most demanding roles in
a semiconductor-based TV set is
that of the horizontal scan transistor.
It must have a very low saturation
voltage drop during the horizontal
scan time, be able to withstand very
high peak collector voltages during flyback and have a short storage time, so
it can switch off rapidly to allow a fast
flyback. Some of these features were
difficult to achieve for a germanium
device in the early 1960s.
In the Sony Micro 5-303E TV, also
released in 1962 (to be described in
an upcoming article), they were well
ahead of the game in transistor design.
Sony had already moved to silicon
transistors for the horizontal and vertical scan and video output stages. Not
all companies were this advanced, but
the germanium transistor technology
was still up to the task.
One of the most acclaimed early
transistor-based TVs was Sony’s
8-301W, said to be one of the world’s
first nearly all transistor-based miniature TV sets (it had valve EHT rectifiers). However, it was just beaten to the
market by the Philco Safari in the USA.
But there is little talk of the Sanyo
8-P2 of the same vintage. Despite
it being the same size as the Sony
8-301W and the same age as the Sony
5-303E, it does not contain a single
silicon transistor.
The Sanyo 8-P2 TV educated me
on transistor television design. It was
given to me by an elderly retired TV
technician in 1975 or thereabouts,
when I was around 17. He was valve
TV trained and never warmed to the
notion of transistors, even though he
was very smart and had built a number of his own valve TV sets.
Faults
This particular set was faulty. The
horizontal output transistor, which
had been replaced, just sat there heating up with no EHT and no horizontal
siliconchip.com.au
deflection. The assumption was
that the line output transformer had
failed. The original physically gigantic
damper diode (energy recovery diode)
was missing, and a silicon rectifier had
been substituted.
After some research at the time, I
worked out that the original PNP germanium transistor had special properties, including low capacitances,
a high transition frequency, a fast
recovery time and the ability to withstand very high collector voltages, and
worked well as a saturated switch.
There was no internet back then, so
it sometimes took a while to acquire
transistor data.
The TO-3 cased transistor which
had been substituted for the original
type was unsuitable, as it was only
intended for use at audio frequencies. Eventually, I was able to source
a 2N3731 and get the set ‘working’
again.
The 2N3731 is a PNP germanium
power transistor designed by RCA specifically for TV horizontal deflection
applications. It has astonishing specifications for a germanium device: a peak
collector-to-base voltage of -320V, a 10A
maximum collector current, a turn-off
time of 1.2µs and a high maximum
junction temperature, for germanium,
The original repair (now 45 years
old!) did not need many changes
initially before testing.
of 185°C which is very unusual.
This transistor could support 114°
deflection and switched off more than
fast enough for the approximately
12µs retrace or ‘flyback’ time. RCA
also manufactured a companion germanium damper diode, the 1N4785.
Remedies
At the time, I knew of no source for
a replacement germanium damper
diode, except for the RCA 1N4785,
which I did not have (and of course,
there was no eBay back then either).
Later, I learned about the DG14TV
diode, which was used in Australianmade AWA portable TV sets and also
the AY102, either of which would have
worked. It is likely that the DG14TV is
merely a re-labelled 1N4785. Finally,
from a wrecked Sanyo 8-P2 set a year
or two later, I found one of the original
gigantic germanium damper diodes.
I installed the 2N3731 in the set,
recapped it (except for the large mains
power supply filter capacitors), and
that is when the fun began. After a
while, the phenolic plate that supported the two valve EHT rectifiers
became conductive, with arcing on
its surface. To fix that, I hand-crafted
a new plate out of acrylic. This repair
is around 45 years old now, and it still
looks OK (see adjacent).
There appears to be a Mitsubishi
logo on the line output transformer
core in this set; Sanyo must have
acquired it from them. It is the only
place inside this set where such a logo
is found.
The rubber-covered EHT cable,
which I replaced in the 1970s, has now
started to crack. So I replaced it again,
this time with very high-quality white
silicone-covered wire (see below). As a
teenager, I did not have access to good
wire like this.
Hand-made acrylic panel
from 45 years ago
2N3731 installed to
replace a 2SB231
Custom germanium
damper diode
Newly installed white
silicone EHT wire
Apart from the
replacement EHT
wire, the rest of the
marked items were
replaced during
the original repair
45 years ago.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 97
Audio driver transformer tipped on its
side and rotated for
minimum pickup of
the magnetic field
from the vertical
yoke’s coils
Once the horizontal scan and EHT
systems were up and running, I was
able to sort out some other problems
in the set.
It was working on this TV set that I
learned the art of sweeping the video
and audio IFs with a sweep generator and scope. After aligning the set,
I was generally pleased with its performance.
But there was an annoying vertical
buzz in the audio caused (after much
investigation) by the audio driver
transformer core picking up radiated
magnetic fields from the vertical yoke’s
coils. This was due to the audio amplifier and audio IF board being mounted
fairly close to the yoke.
98
Silicon Chip
The designers must have been aware
of this, as they had the transformer at
an odd angle on the PCB (see above).
I found that by tipping it on its side
and rotating it to a particular angle, I
could reduce or null the interference
to a very low level. So I fitted a small
brass hoop on the old bracket mounting and soldered the transformer to
the better angle.
Of course later, when inter-stage
transformers were abandoned in audio
amplifiers, this sort of problem vanished too.
But, there was still something that
troubled me: the horizontal scan linearity was stretched (expanded) at
the beginning of scan (on the left) but
Australia’s electronics magazine
looked reasonable elsewhere. It was
much worse with the replacement silicon damper diode, and improved to
a fair degree when the original type of
germanium damper diode was fitted.
It took me some years to understand
the cause of this problem.
This set has an S-correction cap in
series with the yoke H coils, but no
width control inductor and no magnetic linearity coil. The width can be
altered to a degree by tightening or
loosening the clamp screws on the H
output transformer; however, better
linearity is acquired with them tightened up.
The S-correction capacitor in this
set is a high-quality, low-ESR, 7µF
siliconchip.com.au
oil-filled type. There was nothing I
could adjust that affected the horizontal scanning linearity. I held on to the
set for many years and recently powered it up again, after about a 40-year
interval.
The set ‘almost worked’ on repowering it recently. One of the five or so
2000µF clamp-mounted electrolytic
capacitors (which I had not originally
replaced) promptly failed by heating
and outgassing.
Interestingly, on a low-voltage test,
the ESR, capacitance and leakage of
all these old 25mm (one-inch) diameter capacitors read OK on my meters.
However, when the applied voltage
got over about 10-11V, they abruptly
started to draw current and heat up.
It just goes to show that apart from
the usual tests we do on electrolytic
capacitors to verify their performance,
they should always be checked for
leakage just under their rated voltage.
I therefore replaced all of the clampmounted capacitors in the set, and
also the vertical yoke coil’s coupling
capacitor.
The original Sanyo capacitors are
shown at upper right; they were fairly
generous with the number they used.
The set requires good power supply
filtering as there is no electronic regulator for the 12V rail; merely a transformer and bridge rectifier when running from mains power. The larger
500µF axial electrolytic in the photo
is the vertical yoke’s coils coupling
capacitor.
These capacitors are huge for their
ratings compared to modern equivalents, which have about 20% the volume or less.
I had to remove the CRT from the set
to replace the 500µF 12V-rated vertical
yoke coupling cap. I replaced this one
with a 125°C, 40V-rated 1000µF Rifa
automotive-grade capacitor that will
never likely need replacing. I replaced
the 2000µF 15V units with 4700µF 80V
Nichicon types. This was the closest I
could find with a large enough diameter canister size to approximate the
original appearance.
The extra capacity is not unhelpful when running from line power;
it improved the noise rejection when
running the TV from a 12V switchmode power supply too.
The replacement capacitors on the
rear chassis are shown adjacent. This
is the view into the battery compartment. This compartment once held, of
siliconchip.com.au
The original Sanyo capacitors (shown approximately half size) used for power
supply filtering etc, had failed when the set was powered on. The 500µF
capacitor at right is the coupling capacitor for the vertical yoke’s coils. The rest
of the 2000µF capacitors were replaced with 4700µF Nichicon types shown
below (actual size), as they were the closest in terms of appearance and size.
The Nichicon electrolytic
capacitor, which has a diameter of
approximately one inch (25mm).
The yoke coupling capacitor was
replaced with this Rifa 1000µF
automotive capacitor.
Four replacement Nichicon capacitors are shown installed here instead of the
original 2000µF Sanyo ones. The original S-correction capacitor is also shown
at the lower centre in a silver can marked with a cross.
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 99
The Sanyo 8-P2 TV being tested; the 3.8MHz bars are just visible (second set of
lines from the right) which is OK given that the screen is eight inches diagonally.
all things, a 12V wet lead-acid battery,
much like a small motorcycle battery.
The set is powered from this 12V
battery, or by an external 230V AC
mains supply. The manual states
“when the voltage is below 10.5V,
charge the battery immediately”.
There is a selector switch on the top
of the chassis. This switch has four
modes which are viewed via a small
clear window, which is illuminated
by a neon bulb. The four modes are:
CH – battery charged by mains voltage, said to take 10 hours.
DC – powered from the internal
12V battery.
AC – powered from 230V AC mains.
FL – charge battery while playing
the TV from mains power.
Performance and linearity
The high-frequency video performance of this set is reasonable. The
display is shown above; when it is
tuned in properly, the 3.8MHz bars
are just visible, which is an adequate
resolution for the 8-inch (20cm) diagonal screen.
Turning now to the horizontal linearity problem I mentioned earlier,
compressed linearity is when the horizontal picture elements are cramped
together along some part of a horizontal scan line.
This is due to a slower-moving electron beam, ie, a yoke scanning current
that has a lower rate of change with
time than the areas around it on the
horizontal scanning lines.
Expanded linearity is when picture
elements are seen stretched apart due
to a faster-moving electron beam, with
a higher rate of change of yoke current
with time than the areas around it.
Note that in a TV or any other electronic apparatus which runs from a
low-voltage supply, circuit currents
must be higher at lower supply voltages for the same power level. This
makes any effects of circuit resistances
more significant.
The magnetic fields generated by the
TV’s deflection yoke’s ampere-turns
must be about the same for a given
amount of deflection of the CRT’s beam
in either a valve or transistor-based set.
Therefore, an interesting design challenge crops up.
The peak yoke currents in a
12V-powered set need to be much
higher than in a higher-voltage operated set for the same deflection power,
yet the yoke winding ampere-turns
must be similar.
This means that the yoke’s winding
wire (especially for the horizontal yoke
coils) must be made of thick low-resistance wire, yet thin enough to physically wind into a formed yoke coil to
get enough ampere-turns.
In 12V-operated sets, resistance in
the horizontal yoke coils degrades
the horizontal linearity, causing compressed linearity of the scan on the
right side of the raster and stretching
on the left. It took me some time to
realise exactly why this was the case.
In transistorised TVs, the horizontal scan output stage acts as a switch,
and the rate of current increase is
dependent on the inductance and
resistance properties of the horizontal yoke coil and horizontal output
transformer. The horizontal scan linearity is not modifiable by altering the
drive waveform to the horizontal output transistor.
By contrast, the vertical scan stages
act more-or-less like their audio amplifier counterparts, with the waveform
Fig.1: the change
in current when a
fixed DC voltage
is applied across
an RL circuit.
The current will
initially rise
linearly with time
before flattening off
exponentially.
100
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
shape driving the output stages controlling the vertical scan linearity.
This horizontal scan linearity problem was primarily solved or ameliorated in the early solid-state TVs with
horizontal yoke windings that were
‘quadra-filar’ wound. Sometimes, up
to six strands of wire were paralleled
to help keep the DC resistance of the
horizontal yoke coils low, while still
being able to wind and form them.
Later, the horizontal scan linearity
in transistor TV sets and computer
monitors was manipulated with a combination of ‘S-correction’ capacitors
and magnetically saturable inductors
(with a permanent magnet) in series
with the horizontal yoke coils.
Close inspection though will show
that most 12V-operated TVs of the
very early 1960s have expanded scan
linearity on the lefthand side, with no
adjustment inside the TV set which
can alter it. The technical explanation
for this is as follows.
When a fixed DC voltage is applied
across an RL circuit, the current initially rises linearly with time and flattens off in the usual inverted exponential manner (see Fig.1).
Initially at least, when a de-energised
inductor is switched across a power
supply, the rate of current increase is
linear. It rises at V/L amps per second,
where V is the power supply voltage
and L the circuit inductance. Notice
that this initial linear rate of current
increase does not contain the variable
R for resistance.
The yoke’s coils and the power
supply are not free from resistance,
so as time passes, the rate of current
increase flattens off and settles to a
value of V/R amps. The variable L has
now vanished.
In a TV set’s horizontal deflection
system, the proportions of yoke inductance, resistance and power supply
voltage are chosen so that mainly the
first near-linear part of the current
ramp is used to scan the CRT’s beam
from the centre toward the right-hand
side of the CRT’s face.
On the righthand side of the scan
(with no other corrections), compressed linearity is sometimes seen as
the rate of current increase with time
is tapering off.
However, a small amount of this
righthand compression is helpful,
as the sensitivity of the yoke (ie, the
change in beam deflection for a change
in yoke current) is greater for higher
angles of beam deflection.
Therefore, the tapering rate of current increases with time towards the
extreme righthand side of the scan,
due to the L & R properties of the yoke,
which tends to cancel this sensitivity effect. It is often not wholly cancelled, though; as explained below,
S-correction capacitors are usually
still required.
So it is fairly easy to achieve
reasonable horizontal scan linearity
in a 12V-operated transistor set, especially for small screen sizes and low
range deflection angles, even without a
magnetic linearity coil or S-correction
capacitor, at least for the righthand half
of the screen. That is, provided that
the yoke’s L and R values are suitable.
However, good linearity is much
more difficult to achieve on the
lefthand side of the scan.
Horizontal deflection operation
Fig.2 shows a simplified horizontal deflection system with a switching
transistor, damper diode, an inductance L (representing the horizontal
yoke coils) and a tuning capacitor C,
which tunes the flyback frequency.
The transistor’s current ramps up as
the CRT scans toward the righthand
side of the raster. The damper diode
carries the current during lefthand side
scanning; the peak horizontal yoke
currents Ipk and -Ipk are indicated.
The idea is very old and is the
basis of some modern SMPS power
supplies. At the end of each horizontal scan line (after scanning the
righthand side), the energy stored in
the magnetic field of the yoke and
the horizontal output transformer is
transferred into the electric field of
the tuning capacitor.
This is initiated by the switching
transistor cutting off, and this energy
transfer period is known as ‘flyback’.
Fig.2: a simplified horizontal deflection system with a
DC supply (V), switching transistor (Q), damper diode
(D), an inductive load (L), and a tuning capacitor (C).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 101
102
Silicon Chip
The circuit diagram for the Sanyo 8-P2. This was scanned from a photocopy and then cleaned up. The circuit and block
diagram (shown overleaf) can also be downloaded from the Silicon Chip website: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/5788
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 103
Fig.3 (left): how
linearity correcting
components affect
the rate of change
of current in the
damper diode
Fig.4: the red line shows how the
S-correction capacitor alters the
linear yoke current (black).
All the energy has moved into the
capacitor’s electric field halfway
through the flyback period, when the
voltage on the capacitor reaches a peak.
At this point, the yoke current is
zero, and the beam is horizontally centred on the CRT. The flyback voltage
pulse is seen as a half-cycle of high
voltage oscillation on the transistor’s
collector terminal, over the flyback
time of typically around about 12µs.
The peak voltages can be in the range
of 100V for a small monochrome TV
and over 1kV in a large colour TV.
The end of the flyback period is just
before the flyback diode conducts and
after the capacitor’s energy has been
returned to the magnetic field. The
capacitor’s voltage is zero, and both
the yoke current and the polarity of
the magnetic field have reversed. The
CRT’s beam is at the lefthand side of
the raster, ready to scan the next line.
The initial line scanning current
after flyback on the lefthand side is
achieved when the damper (or flyback/freewheeling) diode is pushed
into conduction, and the magnetic energy of the inductances are
returned to the power supply in a
controlled and again, inverted exponential manner.
However, on the lefthand side,
the damper diode’s current tapers
off with time toward the scan centre. Its rate is initially high, rather
than having a tapered or lower rate
of change at the start of the scan on
the lefthand side (which would mirror the shape of the current wave on
the righthand side).
This effect aggravates, rather than
cancels, the yoke’s sensitivity for
high deflection angles. The result is
expanded linearity on the lefthand side
of the CRT (see Fig.3). Therefore, without any linearity correcting components, the horizontal scan will always
have expanded linearity on the left.
The horizontal linearity on my Sony
104
Silicon Chip
Micro 5-303E TV is shown below. This
set is an excellent case for studying
horizontal scan linearity problems,
because it is devoid of any linearity
correcting components (it has neither
an S-correction capacitor nor a magnetic linearity coil).
Its horizontal scan linearity properties show the intrinsic asymmetry
of the linearity beautifully at the end
of the line scan on either side. It also
demonstrates the deflection sensitivity issue with the yoke, showing the
central compression compared to the
sides.
The traditional method which is
used to correct the centre horizontal scan linearity, with respect to the
sides, is the ‘S-correction capacitor’. It
is placed in series with the horizontal
yoke coils. The Sanyo 8-P2 has this
capacitor (even though the Sony Micro
TV of the same year did not).
S-correction capacitors are used
to effectively expand the linearity
near the screen centre area and compress it toward the edges. This happens because the S-correction capacitor forms a resonant circuit with the
inductance of the yoke coils to produce
a partially sinusoidal current.
The red line in Fig.4 shows the effect
of the S-correction capacitor. It alters
the linear yoke current (the black line),
which was closest to a linear sawtooth
current beforehand.
The S-correction capacitor increases
the current rate of change with time
near the centre of the scan, expanding
the linearity there and compressing it
at either side.
An advantage of an S-correction (or
The horizontal linearity test performed on a Sony Micro 5-303E TV, this acts as
a reference to a set without any linearity correcting components.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The block diagram for the
Sanyo 8-P2 scanned from
the service manual.
another coupling capacitor) in series
with the yoke’s coils is that it isolates
any DC voltage present. This means
that the return point of the yoke connections can either be to the 12V supply or ground.
The linearity of the image on the
Sanyo 8-P2 is shown below, which has
an S-correction capacitor. Unlike the
Sony Micro TV, the horizontal linearity
of the central area of the screen (B) is
very similar to that near the righthand
A
side (C), thanks to S-correction.
But it is still expanded in the region
A on the lefthand side, due to the magnetic field reversal and the current
waveform shape.
As explained earlier, this is because
the shape of the current waveform after
flyback aggravates the linearity problem, rather than helping it. But there
is another factor related to the circuit
resistances.
It was noted before that any
B
C
The horizontal linearity of the Sanyo 8-P2 is not as good as the adjacent Sony
TV (for example region “A”) despite it having an S-correction capacitor.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
resistance in the yoke
degrades the horizontal
linearity.
When the righthand
side of the raster is
scanned, the current
pathway to the power
supply has the very low
dynamic resistance of
a saturated switching
transistor. On the other
hand, the lefthand side
is scanned by the current
passing through the damper
diode back to the power
supply.
In many horizontal output
stage designs, the damper
diode is not connected to the
same point as the collector
of the output transistor, as
shown in Fig.2.
A small tap, a few turns away on
the output transformer, helps to bring
the damper diode into conduction
a little earlier and ensures that the
transistor’s collector is prevented
from going negative (in the case of an
NPN output transistor) with respect
to its emitter.
Regardless of the presence or
absence of an S-correction capacitor,
due to high-range horizontal yoke currents in TVs running from lower power
supply voltages and the high peak horizontal yoke coil currents associated
with that, horizontal scan linearity in
early 1960s vintage TV’s was always
a problem.
It depended very much on the yoke
design and its DC resistance, until later
when magnetically saturable inductors were added in series with the
yoke coils. These allowed asymmetric adjustment of the scan linearity.
In the case of the Sanyo 8-P2, the
horizontal scanning linearity defect on
the left side could be eliminated with
the addition of a magnetic linearity
coil; however, I decided to leave it as
it was designed.
In the case of the Sony Micro
5-303E TV, I can see why they did not
add an S-correction capacitor. While
it would have reduced the relative
linearity errors from the screen centre area to the righthand side of the
scan, it would have made the linearity defect on the lefthand side more
obvious.
As it stands with that set, the horizontal scan errors overall look better
averaged out.
SC
September 2021 105
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
ElectroneX returns to Sydney this year on November 10th
Following the delay of ElectroneX
this year – The Electronics Design &
Assembly Expo and Conference will
be hosted in Sydney on the 10-11th of
November 2021 at Rosehill Gardens
(10am-6pm on the 10th, and 9am-4pm
on the 11th).
Reflecting the growth of high-tech
niche manufacturing in Australia,
at the 2019 Expo more than 87% of
visitors said that they had met new
companies and 81% discovered new
products and technology they were
not aware of, reinforcing the important role of exhibitions in showcasing
new technology.
The 33rd Surface Mount & Circuit
Board Association (SMCBA) Electronics Design & Manufacture Conference
will also be held over the 9-11th of
November at Rydges Parramatta.
The speaker program for the conference is currently being finalised;
visit www.smcba.asn.au for further
information.
Registration for ElectroneX is free, as
is on-site parking. To register online,
go to the following link: siliconchip.
com.au/link/abae
You can also call (03) 9676 2133 or
email info<at>auexhibitions.com.au for
more information.
Australasian Exhibitions
and Events Pty Ltd
Suite 11, Pier 35, 263 Lorimer St
Port Melbourne VIC 3207
Tel: (03) 9676 2133
email: ngray<at>auexhibitions.com.au
Web: www.auexhibitions.com.au
Electrolube launch new range of versatile thermal gap fillers
Electrolube has launched the GF400,
a two-part, liquid-silicone-based gap
filler. It can either be cured at room
temperature or accelerated with heat.
Once cured, GF400 forms a low modulus elastomer that prevents the ‘pumpout phenomenon’, ensuring minimal
degradation of effective heat dissipation.
Thermal gap fillers are widely used
for mobile and touchscreen applications. However, the GF400 range is
extremely adaptable and can be used
in a multitude of applications from
PCB assembly and housing automotive electronics discretely, including
HEV, NEV and batteries, power electronics, LEDs and fibre optic telecoms
equipment.
GF400 is soft and compliant, making it ideal for low stress applications,
and provides a wide operating temperature range between -50 to +200°C.
It’s also low viscosity, enabling easier
dispensing, and provides high thermal
conductivity of 4W/mK.
The GF400 has a straightforward
mix ratio of 1:1 and a fast cure time
of 20 minutes at 100°C, vastly increasing throughput. Alternatively, the gap
filler can be cured at 25°C for 12 hours
or 90 minutes at 60°C.
The new thermal gap filler is UL94
V-O approved and has an excellent
dielectric strength of 9kV/mm.
There’s also a 50mL version of the
GF400 in development. We will officially pre-launch the GF400 at ElectroneX on the 10-11th November in
Sydney, alongside our new range of
UV Cure conformal coatings.
Electrolube would like to extend a
warm welcome to all visitors at their
booth A20 during the two day event.
For further information, please visit
www.electrolube.com
Electrolube
3/98 Old Pittwater Road
Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9938 1566
email: sales<at>hkwentworth.com.au
Web: www.electrolube.com.au/
MPLAB tools – now on the Cloud
Microcontroller (MCU) design is
easier than ever with the new MPLAB
cloud tools ecosystem available now
for PIC and AVR devices from Microchip Technology.
The enhanced MPLAB Xpress IDE
delivers a powerful, scalable cloud
infrastructure for development and
debugging along with community collaboration tools using secure GitHub
repository interface controls.
106
Silicon Chip
The free, all-in-one cloud platform
combines easy, integrated search and
discovery of example code, graphical
configuration of projects and code
debugging in a collaborative environment. This environment enables
enterprise-scale rapid development
while simplifying software design for
users at all skill levels with an intuitive browser-based interface and cloud
connectivity.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Developing, debugging and deploying project applications directly from
any web browser can be completed
without any software installation.
For more information, visit: www.
microchip.com/MPLABCloudTools
Microchip Technology Inc.
Unit 32, 41 Rawson Street
Epping NSW 2121
Web: www.microchip.com/
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
20A DC motor controller
lacks a current limit
I enjoyed reading your article on
the 20A DC Motor Speed Controller
in the July 2021 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/14918). It certainly
has many useful features. One feature that I couldn’t find mention of is
a current limit.
If there is a brake on the machine
that has been inadvertently left
applied or if the mechanism is seized
or sticky, the motor current could go
sky-high at start-up. Fuse F1 would
blow, but would that happen fast
enough to safeguard Mosfets Q1 and
Q2 and the copper track on the PCB?
A current limit, adjustable up to a
maximum of 1.5 times the full motor
load current would give the user
enough time to realise that there is a
problem and react. It should be possible to derive a current limit in IC1 using
the current feedback signal at pin 9.
The formula given for motor impedance on page 30 needs a bit of amendment. Impedance = √R2 + (2π × f × L).
(R. H., Bronte, NSW)
• We haven’t included a current limit
and instead rely on the fuse to blow.
The Mosfets are rated up to 60A each
and so are rugged enough to handle
a high current until the fuse blows.
Short circuits would cause the fuse to
blow well before any feedback control
would come into effect. The PCB tracks
have sufficient area to remain intact.
Reducing HT (high
tension) voltage
I have a transformer that produces
370 AC which, when rectified and
filtered, gives 515V DC. I need a B+
voltage for my amplifier of 390-400V
DC. How can I achieve this? (S. K.,
Singapore)
• To get 400V DC after rectification
and filtering, you would typically use a
transformer with a secondary of about
280V AC. You could rewind the transformer to get a more suitable 280V AC
output from it.
siliconchip.com.au
If the load current is constant, you
could drop about 120V using a highpower resistor, but that would generate much heat. It could also cause
catastrophic damage if the load current were suddenly reduced, resulting in a much higher than expected
applied voltage. So overall, it is not a
good solution. It’s much better to start
with an appropriate AC voltage from
the transformer.
Advanced GPS
Computer query
I built the Advanced GPS Computer
(June & July 2021; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/366), but one thing I have found
annoying is having to switch the unit
off before I switch off the ignition to
prevent the unit from continuing to
run on battery. I don’t understand
why the battery is there; it only has a
usable life down to about 3.6V, so it
does not last long. A button cell could
run the RTC.
Also, would it be possible to include
an overspeed alarm, mainly to be used
in urban areas where the speed limit is
50/60 and cruise control is not really
usable? I thought maybe the displayed
speed could change colour to red and
sound a warning. The screen is already
a bit cluttered, but it should fit somewhere. (P. C., Balgal Beach, Qld)
• The battery is intended to allow the
GPS Computer to run when not connected to USB power, ie, as a portable device. The easiest way to have it
shut off when the ignition shuts off is
to set the battery low voltage (LO) to
a higher value, which will cause it to
shut down sooner.
For example, if HI is set to 4.4V, you
can set LO to 4.3V, which should cause
the GPS Computer to trigger its shutdown timer practically as soon as USB
power is removed, and shut down the
unit after the TO timer has expired.
An overspeed warning is possible, and perhaps it can be added to
the large speedometer display tile,
with the numbers changing colour as
the speed increases. But the program
Australia’s electronics magazine
already comes very close to filling the
available flash space, so it means that
other features will need to be cut.
We might leave this one for a while
and see what other readers suggest. We
can do an update once we have an idea
of what other features people want.
Bench Supply transistor
installed backwards
I have ordered enough parts to build
two of your 45V Linear Bench Supplies
(October-November 2019; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/339). I have completed
the first, but I’ve come across a problem
– the 68W 1W resistor across the B-E
junction of the BD140 and the input
to the LM317HV gets extremely hot
with modest loads (1A). This is also
reducing the available output voltage
due to the voltage across it.
Current adjustment via VR4 is functioning as expected (up to 2A), as is
voltage adjustment via VR3.
With 50V at the collectors of Q4-Q7,
and a selected voltage of 20V, even a
small load of 500mA results in the
68W resistor overheating. (B. N., Fremantle, WA)
• It sounds like you have transistor
Q3 (BD140) installed the wrong way
around. Note that in Fig.6 on page
70 of the November 2019 issue, it is
shown mounted with its metal tab
facing away from the surface of the
heatsink, not towards it as you would
usually expect.
This was done to provide electrical
isolation from Q3 but perhaps was not
explained clearly enough (although it
was mentioned in the third-last paragraph on p75). Rotate Q3 by 180° and
your supply should work normally.
Two audio queries
Regarding the Ultra-Low Distortion Preamplifier with Tone Controls
(March & April 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Series/333), the component layout
diagram on page 38 of the March issue
shows two 10W resistors with an asterisk and a note “see text”. They are also
shown on the circuit diagram.
September 2021 107
I assume they should be fitted to the
main board, as they are shown in both
pictures, but I can’t find any reference
to them in the accompanying article.
Am I missing something?
Also, I have a Redback A2691A
AM/FM 100W Stereo Receiver
Amplifier to which I would like to
connect a Bose Companion 3 Series
II Multimedia Speaker. The Redback
has a line out socket with a volume
that can’t be controlled. The Bose has
a control pod with a 3.5mm stereo
plug line input.
Can you provide any advice on
connecting the Bose line input to the
speaker terminals of the Redback? I
realise that this could create distortion
problems, but the usual listeners are
both over 70 years old. If this is possible, I can control the Bose volume from
the Redback. Apart from the speaker
terminals and the line out socket, there
are no other outputs available on the
Redback. (D. H., Mapleton, Qld)
• The two 10W resistors are to minimise Earth currents in the supply
and signal Earths so that hum is minimised. They can be shorted out if
there is no hum heard when doing so,
but it’s generally safer to leave them
in the circuit.
Connecting the speaker terminals to
the 3.5mm jack socket would require
reducing the speaker terminal voltage
to that suitable for the Bose line input.
To prevent problems with hum, especially if the speakers are driven with a
complementary output, it is important
to use the audio isolation transformers
(eg, Altronics Cat M0706).
Connect 22kW/1kW resistive dividers across the speaker terminals, with
the 1kW resistors towards the black
terminals, then connect the yellow/
blue wires of the isolating transformers across the 1kW resistors. Join the
transformers’ green wires together,
then connect these to the TRS jack
plug ring terminal, with the two red
wires going to the tip and the sleeve.
You can then safely plug this into
the Bose line input socket.
Using Keyboard/Mouse
Adaptor with Micromite
Can the USB Keyboard and Mouse
Adaptor for Micros (February 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11414) be
used with the original Colour Maximite from the September & October 2012
issues (siliconchip.com.au/Series/22)?
(R. M., Melville, WA)
•
If you want to interface to the Maximite console then, unfortunately,
the answer is no. That is because the
Colour Maximite does not have a TTL
UART interface for the console, just
the virtual USB-serial interface and
the PS/2 keyboard interface.
You could use the Serial I/O to
receive keyboard events via the Maximite’s COM2 from inside an MMBasic
program (see page six of the Maximite
manual), but we suspect that is not what
you want.
We are considering designing a
device similar to the USB Keyboard
and Mouse Adaptor but with a PS/2
interface instead of a UART. Such a
device would be suitable for the Maximites.
Help identifying failed
8-pin LED driver IC
Trying to repair an LED driver, I
found the 8-pin DIL control IC on the
PCB to have bad dry joints. But even
after resoldering it, it still would not
function. The only markings on its
body are “BXUBTA”. I have been
unable to find any information on the
internet about this IC. Can you help
me? (B. C., Dungog, NSW)
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
•
The BX prefix indicates that it is a
Sony part. See the list at siliconchip.
com.au/link/abac
Unfortunately, we can’t find a master list of Sony IC codes, and we don’t
usually see Sony ICs for sale at the
usual resellers. You probably need to
contact a Sony authorised repair agent
or spare parts distributor to find out
whether they can identify that chip
and supply a replacement. Given how
inexpensive LED drivers are these
days, we suspect it will be easier and
cheaper to buy a new one.
Prewound transformer
is no longer available
In the parts list for the New Marine
Ultrasonic Anti-Fouling Unit (May
& June 2017; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/312) on p81 of the May issue,
it lists a pre-wound transformer, Jaycar Cat EM2791. But this is no longer
available. Is there an alternative that I
could use, or details of how to wind it
myself? (C. L., Beaumaris, Vic)
• Details for winding the transformer
can be found on page 39 of our September 2010 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/281), in the article describing the construction of the original
Anti-Fouling Unit. The transformer
cores, former and clips are available
from element14 (https://au.element14.
com), among others.
You will need two of their Cat
3056375 3C90 ferrite cores, one Cat
178506 former and two Cat 178507
clips.
Using DC Motor Speed
Controllers for AWD
I want to use two of your DC Motor
Speed Controllers (January & February
2017; siliconchip.com.au/Series/309)
for all-wheel-drive control of my eBike
using a twist throttle and possibly
crank sensor. I’m assuming I would
need two separate controllers, ie, one
per 1500W 48V wheel motor.
What is the best way to interface the
signal from the twist throttle/crank
sensor to both DC controllers?
For the batteries, I want to make up a
battery pack using Ozito 5Ah 18V batteries (three in series, five in parallel to
get 52V, 20Ah). These appear to have
an inbuilt battery management system
(BMS). Is it OK to parallel and series
connect intact power tool packs like
this? Is fusing advisable between packs?
siliconchip.com.au
My other option is using four Altronics 12.8V LiFePO4 cells in series, paralleled to give 51.2V at 24Ah. In this
case, is it advisable to connect fuses
between battery packs?
In both battery situations, the cell
packs have inbuilt management systems; is an external overall low-voltage
cut-out circuit still needed?
You should do a feature on eBike
circuits, controllers, BMS for Li-ion
and LiFePO4 cells. There are many
eBay type kits available, but who
knows how well they work. (P. B.,
Cooloongup, WA)
• Separate resistors from the twist
throttle control to each DC motor
controller would isolate the controls.
100W should be suitable.
You can parallel the batteries, but
before doing so, they must be charged
to equal voltages. That will prevent a
massive current flow between them
when connected.
Get each battery to within about
100mV of each other before joining
them. Once connected, they can be
charged as usual. Paralleled batteries
must each be the same type regarding age, brand and capacity and, of
course, voltage.
Fuses between the paralleled batteries should not be necessary. They
would likely blow anyway unless you
use very high amperage fuses that
would defeat the purpose of paralleling for extra current.
Running Motor Speed
Controller from Li-ion
I have purchased one of the few
remaining 12-48V 40A DC Motor
Speed Controller kits from Jaycar. Do
I need to make any modifications to
run the controller from a Li-ion battery
with a voltage of 29.4V fully charged?
(I. B., Laidley South, Qld)
• Assuming you are referring to our
January & February 2017 DC Motor
Speed Controller (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/309), Jaycar kit Cat KC5534.
Based on the supply voltage of 29.4V,
use the component values given for
a nominal supply voltage of 24V, ie,
27kW for R1 & R2, no jumper in JP1
and a 10V 1W zener diode for ZD4.
Bridged amps not
suitable for headphones
I purchased the Champion Amplifier with Pre-Amplifier (January 2013;
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au/Article/1301) kit
from Jaycar (Cat KC5519). My plan is
to adjust the gain to allow me to connect an electric guitar to one input and
my iPhone to the other, so that I can
play along with music tracks.
That shouldn’t present any problems, but I also want to connect headphones to the output of the Champion amp. To do that, I will need to
fit an attenuator. I have plans for a
simple impedance-matching attenuator designed for this exact purpose.
However, that design can’t be used on
amps with bridged outputs.
Can I just use one of the outputs
of the AN7511 referenced to ground,
between pins 6 & 7? I’ve read the data
sheet, and there’s no guidance on this.
(C. C., via email)
• You can’t really drive headphones/
earphones with a bridged output
amplifier as headphones usually have
a common ground connection between
the two ears. There’s no good way to
do it.
In theory, you could use just one
of each pair of outputs to drive headphones, as you are suggesting. It will
work, but it’s likely to result in significantly higher distortion, so we don’t
recommend it.
A better solution for driving headphones is our Studio Series Stereo Headphone Amplifier from the
November 2005 issue. It isn’t overly
complicated or too expensive to build;
see siliconchip.com.au/Article/3231
It can be powered from a low-voltage
AC plugpack using the 4-Output Universal Voltage Regulator (May 2015;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/8562)
Fuel pump cut-out
project wanted
I’d very much like to see more
low-to-moderate difficulty projects
back in the magazine.
For example, in modern vehicles,
the Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) has mostly
reverted to a standard style relay as
the ECU controls it. It might be different colour, but generally, it is a
four-terminal standard relay.
When Fuel injection was being introduced, the FPR had its own circuitry
to detect the RPM from the ignition
system and cut off if it wasn’t present
for a short period, as well as a starter
connection to override this auto-cut-off
when the engine was being cranked by
the starter (low RPM).
September 2021 109
If the engine still used a coil (with/
without mechanical points), it often
had an auxiliary output for that as
well, usually just a parallel tag to the
fuel pump tag on the relay.
When restoring older vehicles, it
is often difficult to get parts. I don’t
just mean the fuel pump relay; this
also includes mechanical fuel pumps,
overhaul kits etc. So often, an electric
fuel pump is used instead. For example, the cheap Goss pumps are ideal
for carburetted engines.
I find myself in that position and
have fitted a Goss pump near the fuel
tank to push fuel to the carburettor. I
have blanked off the mechanical pump
opening in the engine block. Its easy
to just wire it from a fuse and relay,
but what I’d like to do is have a fuel
pump relay set up so that if the ignition is turned on, but the engine does
start for some reason, the pump will
stop after a short period.
This is mandatory in case of an accident; the electric pump should stop
pumping fuel if the engine stops.
Additionally, it would be good to
wire the ignition coil with its ballast resistor to the FPR so that if the
ignition is on, but the engine has not
started, the coil and ballast won’t heat
up if the points are closed.
On my car, the ballast is overridden by a standard relay; perhaps this
facility could be incorporated as well.
This all needs to be in a small package. It could be a standard Bosch relay
with another relay case glued to the top
of it. I would prefer not to use SMD
components so that anyone can make
it, but I realise that is contra to needing it to be a small package.
If you have a past project incorporating circuitry similar to this, please
let me know. I searched through your
articles but didn’t come up with anything fitting the description. (S. S.,
Manly Vale, NSW)
• Many of our electronic ignition
systems (that can run using points,
reluctor, Hall Effect etc triggers)
switch off the coil if the engine does
not start within a set period and the
coil is not energised until the engine
is rotated. However, we have not published a fuel pump cut off when the
engine stops.
Typically, the oil pressure switch
would be used as the fuel cut off signal
to drive a relay when there is sufficient
oil pressure and switch off power to
the pump when pressure is low (also
when the engine stops). The reserve in
the carburettor’s float bowl should be
sufficient to get the engine started without the pump until the engine runs.
A temporary bypass pushbutton
switch could be added to power the
pump and refill the float bowl should
more fuel be needed to start the engine
during stubborn starts or in very cold
weather.
Also, it does not seem especially
worthwhile to design such a device
since commercial versions are available at a reasonable price. They are
even Australian-made! Search for
“PEEL CP30F Fuel Pump Safety
Switch” (available on eBay etc).
Solar panel voltage
should match batteries
Your MPPT solar controllers (and
many other similar devices) can charge
a 24V battery from a ‘24V solar panel’
(approximately 40V open circuit) or
charge a 12V battery from a ‘12V solar
panel’ (approximately 20V open circuit).
Can your controller be modified to
charge a 12V battery from a 24V solar
continued on page 112
110
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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WARNING!
Silicon Chip magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages
should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of Silicon Chip magazine.
Devices or circuits described in Silicon Chip may be covered by patents. Silicon Chip disclaims any liability for the
infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. Silicon Chip also disclaims any
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
September 2021 111
panel? I realise the efficiency might
be lower, but maybe other people,
like me, have obtained a second-hand
24V solar panel cheaply and wish to
charge a 12V system. I have researched
36-12 DC/DC inverters and 24V solar
controllers online, but none of them
can do the job.
With the 24V controllers, the protection circuit kicks in, and a typical inverter has only 12V DC output,
insufficient to charge a 12V battery.
Any suggestions please? (B. M., East
Hills, NSW)
• The power conversion circuit in
our MPPT chargers isn’t designed to
handle such a large voltage step-down
ratio (nearly 3:1).
That is possible, although not with
the existing design, and the efficiency
is likely to be poor.
Reduced power version
of the Studio 350
Can the Studio 350 Amplifier (January & February 2004; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/97) be outfitted with
two power transistors per rail instead
of the four and powered from a lower
supply voltage?
I was thinking of building a tri-amp
system and using different powers for
each frequency; for the low frequencies, I would use the 350W version
with four transistors per rail, but for
the medium frequencies, I would use
the lower-power version. Is it possible
to do this, or will I have a problem?
Also, I am having trouble getting
some of the transistors for this design.
Is it possible to replace the BF470 and
BF469 with MJE350 and MJE340? And
what replacements can I use for the
2SA1084? (R. C., Quito, Ecuador)
• Yes, it would be possible to build a
lower-power version of the Studio 350
Amplifier, although there are better
options. You would be better off building the SC200 (January-March 2017;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/308) for the
outputs that don’t need the full 350W.
If you decide to run the Studio 350
with a lower supply rail voltage, some
resistor values need to be changed to
ensure the amplifier is operating correctly.
For example, the 18kW resistor at the
collector of Q1 and the 6.8kW resistor
at the collector of Q4 would need to
be reduced to keep the transistors conducting with the lower supply.
Also, the amplifier gain will probably need to be reduced by reducing the
22kW resistor value at the base of Q3.
But you have to be careful doing that
since lowering the gain of an amplifier can cause it to become unstable!
As for the transistors, our recommended substitutes for BF469 and
BF470 are 2SC4793 and 2SA1837,
respectively – see page 38 of the July
2011 issue. However, note that the pinout is reversed; ECB for the BF469/470
and BCE for the replacements, so
the transistors need to be placed in
the opposite orientation. The board
should accommodate that.
The recommended substitute for the
2SA1084 or 2SA970 is the KSA992.
This is a direct replacement with an
identical pinout. The collector current
rating is 50mA vs 100mA, but that
shouldn’t be a problem in any audio
amplifier as the front-end current is
rarely more than 20mA.
SC
Advertising Index
AEEE ElectroneX........................ 7
Altronics...............................23-26
Ampec Technologies................. 81
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
element14................................. 13
Emona Instruments................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................. 9
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEDsales................................. 111
Microchip Technology......... 5,OBC
Mouser Electronics.................... 11
Ocean Controls......................... 10
PHIPPS Electronics.................... 8
PMD Way................................ 111
SC Vintage Collection DVD..... 110
SC Xmas Ornaments................ 85
Silicon Chip Binders................. 89
Silicon Chip RTV&H DVD...... 108
Silicon Chip Shop.................... 94
Silicon Chip Subscriptions....... 37
Silvertone.................................. 12
Switchmode Power Supplies..... 79
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 52
Tronixlabs................................ 111
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wagner Electronics..................... 6
Notes & Errata
Programmable Hybrid Lab Supply with WiFi, May & June 2021: the footprints for transistors Q3 and Q4 on the PCB are incorrect,
with the base & emitter pins (pins 1 & 2) swapped. There are two possible solutions to this: either gently bend the pins of these
transistors up so that they can be soldered in place upside-down, or trim the leads of two NPN TO-92 package transistors to
reach the appropriate pads. Also, there is an error in the parts list; the 150W axial resistor should be 68W, and the 68W SMD
resistor should be 150W 0.5W (M2012/0805 size). This error also affects Fig.6 in the June 2021 issue; the 150W through-hole
resistor below REG2 should be 68W, and the 68W SMD resistor to the right of REG1 should be 150W 0.5W.
High-Current Four Battery/Cell Balancer, March & April 2021: The UM6K34N and UM6K31N transistor types have been swapped
throughout both parts of this article. Q7 should have been specified as UM6K34N, while Q8, Q13, Q18, Q19 and Q24 should have
been UM6K31N. This is not critical unless the total battery 'stack' voltage can exceed 50V. In that case, you should replace Q8
and Q18 with the 60V-tolerant UM6K34N. Finally, in the second article (April), at the start of page 82 where it refers to dividing
a reading by 3.3V, it should instead be divided by 1.65V (ie, half the 3.3V rail, which is the ADC reference voltage).
Speedo Corrector Mk.3, September 2013: the BC857 is incorrectly listed for Q3 & Q6 in the parts list, it should be for Q4 & Q6.
The circuit and overlay diagram are correct.
The October 2021 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Monday, September 27th. Expect postal delivery of subscription
copies in Australia between September 27th and October 13th.
112
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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