This is only a preview of the August 2022 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 41 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Wide-Range Ohmmeter, Part 1":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "isoundBar with Built-in Woofer":
Items relevant to "SPY-DER: a 3D-printed Robot":
Items relevant to "Secure Remote Mains Switch, Part 2":
Articles in this series:
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AUGUST 2022
ISSN 1030-2662
08
100 Years of Electronics in Australia
The Histor
y of Silicon
9 771030 266001
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Chip
Page 26
Wide-Range Ohmmeter
measure from 1mΩ to 20MΩ
Page 48
The HiFi isoundBar
with a built-in woofer
SPY-DER
A 3D-PRINTED DIY ROBOT
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Page 60
Reviewing the
DH30 Max Li-ion spot welder
Page 80
Assembling the
August
2022 1
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Contents
Vol.35, No.8
August 2022
14 IC Fabrication, Part 3
Due to the increasing transistor density of ICs, newer manufacturing
technologies are required. FinFETs, GAAFETs and now “multi-chip modules”
are some of the methods used to produce ever more packed silicon dies.
By Dr David Maddison
Semiconductors
34 History of Silicon Chip, Part 1
Leo Simpson, the founder of Silicon Chip magazine tells the story of how
and why Silicon Chip formed. It all started in 1984, while he was the editor
of the magazine Electronics Australia.
By Leo Simpson
60 DH30 MAX Li-ion Spot Welder
Many new welders that use Li-ion batteries have been popping up online,
at prices that you would consider reasonable. While the DH30 MAX has the
beginnings of a good design, it wasn’t without its stumbles.
By Phil Prosser
Review
26 Wide-Range Ohmmeter, Part 1
This auto-ranging Ohmmeter measures just about any resistance you could
want, from 1mW all the way to 20MW. It’s accuracy is better than ±1%, and
it’ll run for ~24 hours of active use with its six AA cells.
By Phil Prosser
Test equipment project
48 isoundBar with Built-in Woofer
Why spend over $1000 on a good commercial soundbar when you can build
your own for less than half that! Just make sure you have enough room for
it, as our isoundBar measures 1.24m wide.
By Allan Linton-Smith
TV & Audio project
64 SPY-DER: a 3D-printed Robot
SPY-DER is a speech and web-controllable surveillance robot. It walks like a
spider, and can monitor locations using its onboard camera. You can build
it yourself by using a 3D printer, some servomotors and a few low-cost
electronic components.
By Arijit Das
Raspberry Pi & Arduino project
80 Secure Remote Mains Switch, Pt2
We finish off our Remote Mains Switch by showing how you assemble, test
it, and then register the transmitter(s). We also have a separate panel on
how the rolling code system works.
By John Clarke
Mains power project
Wide-Range
OhmMeter
Page 26
isoundBar
Page 48
Page 64
SPY-DER
A 3D-PRINTED DIY ROBOT
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
Mailbag
23
Subscriptions
47
Product Showcase
70
Online Shop
72
Serviceman’s Log
88
Vintage Equipment
96
Circuit Notebook
100
Ask Silicon Chip
103
Market Centre
104
Advertising Index
104
Notes & Errata
AVO valve testers, part 1 by Ian Batty
1. Mains timer / LED lamp dimmer
2. Hearing loop (telecoil) phone headset
3. Smoke, alcohol or LPG alarm
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke – B.E.(Elec.)
Editorial Viewpoint
100 years of Australian
electronics magazines
Editorial office: Unit 1 (up ramp), 234
Harbord Rd, Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Postal address: PO Box 139,
Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Phone: (02) 9939 3295.
ISSN: 1030-2662
Printing and Distribution:
The first issue of Wireless Weekly was published
on the 4th of August 1922 – almost exactly a century
before you are likely to read this.
You might be wondering what that has to do with
Silicon Chip, besides both publications being Australian electronics magazines. There is a bit more of an
association than just that.
Wireless Weekly was started by Florence Violet McKenzie, Ron Marsden
and William Maclardy. You might recall that I reviewed a biography of Violet McKenzie (aka Mrs Mac) titled “Radio Girl” in the February 2022 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/15203).
They sold Wireless Weekly to Wireless Newspapers Ltd in 1923. It became
a monthly magazine in April 1939 and was renamed “Radio & Hobbies” and
then “Radio, Television & Hobbies” in 1955. Radio, TV & Hobbies once again
changed its name to “Electronics Australia” in April 1965.
Electronics Australia began to decline around April 2000, when it changed
its name to “ea” (ugh) and not long after that, it ceased to be a hobbyist publication, simply describing the latest gadgets.
It was renamed again to “Electronics Australia Today” (EAT) in April 2001.
EAT only lasted five issues, the last being September/October 2001. Was that
the end of the line for what started as Wireless Weekly? Not quite.
Rewinding the clock to 1987, EA editor Leo Simpson was not satisfied
with the magazine’s direction. He attempted a management buyout of the
magazine and was immediately dismissed. After recovering from the shock,
he took that as an opportunity to start a competing magazine.
Other key staff members of Electronics Australia (John Clarke, Greg Swain
and Bob Flynn) also felt that the magazine was in decline. They decided to
leave too, ultimately joining him to start a new magazine: Silicon Chip.
EA competed with Silicon Chip for a while under the editorship of Jim
Rowe, but when he was let go in September 2000, he ultimately came to
join the Silicon Chip team. Electronics Australia did not last much longer
after he left.
Silicon Chip subsequently bought the rights to all the EA material, including its earlier incarnations: Wireless Weekly, Radio & Hobbies and Radio, TV
& Hobbies and even EA’s main competitor, Electronics Today International
(ETI). Thus, “the loop was closed”. Silicon Chip is a true successor to Electronics Australia.
Because many people don’t know the story behind Electronics Australia
and Silicon Chip, we have a fascinating article by Leo Simpson this month
(to be concluded next month), starting on page 34.
This first article reveals some of what went on behind the scenes at EA
and the transition to Silicon Chip. The second part next month will concentrate more on what happened until I took over Silicon Chip in August 2018.
One aspect that many Silicon Chip readers probably don’t realise is that
the magazine almost failed in its first year. You can read all about that (and
more) in Leo’s article.
It’s quite incredible to realise that all this was set in motion way back in
1922, when a few radio enthusiasts decided to start a weekly publication for
their burgeoning community.
I don’t exactly know what the future holds for Silicon Chip, but I certainly
plan to keep it going for as long as possible. Another 100 years, perhaps!
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
by Nicholas Vinen
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe – B.A., B.Sc.
Bao Smith – B.Sc.
Tim Blythman – B.E., B.Sc.
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Allan Linton-Smith
Dave Thompson
David Maddison – B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Dr Hugo Holden – B.H.B, MB.ChB.,
FRANZCO
Ian Batty – M.Ed.
Phil Prosser – B.Sc., B.E.(Elec.)
Cartoonist
Louis Decrevel
loueee.com
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson – B.Bus., FAICD
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2 Silicon Chip
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MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Trouble seeing junctions in circuit diagrams
I’d like to make a small point with your circuit diagrams. Would it be possible with Altium Designer 22 to
increase the size of the junction dots on your circuit diagrams? I’m finding it very hard to see them.
It is not a real problem for normal three-way (T) junctions because, after many years of reading circuit diagrams, I tend not to notice them anyway; I just assume
that there is a join.
However, with the four-way junctions (+), which seem
to be creeping in a fair bit lately (p42 of the June issue, for
example), the dots are really hard to see, and my old brain
just skips over the join, as my old days, having a four-way
junction was a bit of a no-no and I’m not used to them.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
Brian Playne, Toowoomba, Qld.
Jim Rowe responds: thanks for your suggestions. We try to
avoid four-way junctions, but sometimes it isn’t easy. Most
readers don’t seem to have any problems with them, perhaps because when two lines cross without intersecting,
we always use the ‘crossover’ symbol. This should make
it clear when there is not a four-way junction.
By the way, our diagrams are not drawn using Altium
Designer but with CorelDraw. We use Altium’s “schematic
capture” as part of our development process, but the
resulting diagrams are not ideal for publication.
Error in DDS Signal Generator PCB
I have just built the AM/FM DDS Signal Generator (May
2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15306), but not without a
couple of hiccups. There was a shorted track in the PCB I
purchased from the Silicon Chip Online Shop. It appears
to be a design flaw rather than a manufacturing fault, so
I thought others might be up for the same.
After construction, I had no display when powered, and
the circuit only drew about 40mA. Checking the PCB, I
found that both vias associated with the display data line
to the OLED were shorted to the ground plane. I cut the
shorted track at both ends before the vias, then soldered
a short length of Kynar wire between the vias.
Strangely, the photo on p50 clearly shows the track as
intact. Maybe mine was a one-off.
I noticed some other minor things:
• The footprint for IC3 is slightly too small (or maybe
I had the wrong package from AliExpress), but there was
minimal land on the pads past the toe of the gull wing.
• The mounting holes for the display do not match the
dimensions of the display from Silicon Chip (although I
was still able to mount it using the screws).
• The PCB silkscreen has Q1, Q2 and Q3 designated
as Q2, Q3 and Q4.
• The 12mm M2 screws listed in the parts list are too
short for 10mm untapped spacers.
Despite what probably reads as lots of criticism, I am
most impressed with the project and very much appreciate the effort put into developing it. Clearly, a lot of work
went into designing it, and the article reads very well. I
will be lining up for the companion attenuator and look
forward to any future offerings you can contribute.
Simon Smith, Zillmere, Qld.
Comments: there was indeed an error in the PCB files
we received for this project and subsequently sent to the
manufacturer. We have discarded those PCBs and ordered
a new lot with this error fixed, and most people who’ve
ordered that board have received the corrected version.
Apologies to anyone who received them before we were
made aware of this problem.
We purchased OLEDs that we believed matched the
footprint that Charles used, but there are subtly different
electrically-compatible versions available with slightly
different mounting arrangements. That likely explains
your observations.
You are correct that the screws are too short; we should
have changed them to 16mm. We did renumber some parts
to remove gaps but didn’t modify the PCB as, ironically,
we were concerned about introducing new errors if we did.
“Supercap” batteries may not be what they seem
I have a comment on the “Solar PV Update” article (January 2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15170) in the January
issue (I’m a bit behind with my reading…). One widely-
advertised and sold supposed “supercap” battery is probably a scam.
Looking past the corflute, duct tape, hot glue and MDF
The shorted track in the AM/FM DDS Signal Generator (left), and the wire link made to fix it (right).
4 Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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construction, once you crack open the metal case, it’s controlled by Arduinos with Ethernet shields (on a device
with a supposed lifetime of decades) and has current-
carrying wires in tight bundles so they can heat each other
up. People who have examined it say that it appears to
use LTO cells, not supercaps.
There’s a video analysing it at youtu.be/tD7MXTfumJs
and a lengthy discussion at siliconchip.au/link/abfg
It’s sold under a variety of different names and brands.
So if you’re thinking of going with a supercap battery,
make sure you do your research before sinking money
into one.
Peter Gutmann, Auckland, New Zealand.
Comment: “LTO” cells are lithium-titanium-oxide cells,
a type of Li-ion cell that can charge and discharge much
more rapidly than standard Li-ion cells but with a reduced
maximum charge voltage. That means they have a lower
energy density than standard Li-ion cells. Mixing LTO
cells with Li-ion could give interesting results for ‘bursty’
loads, but they are certainly not supercaps.
IoT devices wanted
I’d like to see a bit more on IoT in Silicon Chip. I fiddle with computers and Arduinos these days, and I have
a few devices sending data to my servers to display data
graphs. I haven’t yet cracked secure serving (HTTPS) or
common home automation, but I hope to do so eventually.
I know there is a lot on the internet about all this stuff.
And of course, a magazine will be rapidly out of date (like
me). But I’m using cheap ESP8266 and ESP32 modules
that have been available for a long time and still work
well. Experimenting and blowing up a few isn’t an issue
at $2 per ESP8266 in lots of 10 or 20.
While I appreciate Raspberry Pi articles, I haven’t got
into those. Arduinos have enough grunt for me, and old
laptops do as home servers. As for the ‘mite’ and BASIC,
you can keep those. Niche, pointless and limited.
I don’t know if my circuits and code would be of any
use to the magazine; it’s just what I’ve cobbled together
off the internet, so I am loath to present anything. However, I have had some take-up of the weather station software I shared.
I appreciate reviews like the resin-based 3D printer in
July 2022 (I have a cheap 3D deposition printer). I also
like the technical info/scientific articles, even if some
are beyond me.
Ken Wagnitz, Craigburn Farm, SA.
Comment: we don’t receive many IoT project contributions. Part of the problem may be that many IoT applications are of limited use to the average person. It would be
helpful to have a more concrete idea of what IoT projects
people want to see since it’s such a broad area.
Exporting firmware from a Raspberry Pi Pico
I recently developed a program using the PicoMite (January 2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15177) with an LCD
screen. I wanted to have a way of easily saving my work
that is stored in the PicoMite’s flash memory. After communicating with Tim Blythman, who pointed me in the
right direction, I worked out a method to do this if you
have a Raspberry Pi.
Mine is a Raspberry Pi 3B, and this is how I saved the
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program. Saving the program is relatively easy, but the
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At the Raspberry Pi console, type the commands:
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\
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8 Silicon Chip
$ sudo apt install wget
$ wget https://raw.githubusercontent.com/
rasberrypi/pico-setup/master/
pico_setup.sh
$ chmod +x pico_setup.sh
$ ./pico_setup.sh
$ picotool help
You should see a list of about 20 lines with helpful
commands to use picotool. The website at https://github.
com/raspberrypi/picotool has much valuable information about picotool.
Now connect a USB cable from the Raspberry Pi to the
PicoMite while holding the BootSel button down, then
release the button.
A dialog box on the Linux screen should appear with
the message “Removable medium is inserted”. Leave the
box there but don’t push any buttons. To save the current
program on the PicoMite, type the following command:
$ sudo picotool save -p test_program.uf2 -t uf2
To test that the transfer went properly, disconnect the
PicoMite and reconnect it in BootSel mode as before.
Open the drive when the USB drive dialog pops up on the
Linux screen. Drag and drop the file “test_program.uf2”
onto the drive and wait for it to finish. Now disconnect
the Raspberry Pi and connect your regular terminal such
as Tera Term. You should be able to see your program run.
You can easily develop a program and share it with
your friends using this method.
Grant Muir, Sockburn, New Zealand.
Comments on Buck/Boost LED Driver
You should consider adding a remote temperature sensor to the Boost/Buck LED Driver (June 2022; siliconchip.
au/Article/15340). You want to limit the temperature of
the LEDs to well under 100°C; 80°C is good and lower is
better. You just need an NTC glued/attached to the back of
the panel that ultimately causes a reduction in the drive
current above a specific temperature.
It might be able to be incorporated around IC2 in your
design; however, I think a separate op amp is probably
required as you don’t want the temperature limit to change
with the current limit setting.
This is probably obvious but I’ll point it out anyway –
if a single LED goes open circuit in a series-parallel array
that’s being run from a current source, suddenly, all of
the other LEDs in parallel will have to absorb that extra
current. Total array failure is likely at some time in the
near future.
These days, white LEDs are always blue with a yellow or orange phosphor on top. The resultant light is the
sum of the light from phosphor compounds that have
been excited by the blue light, plus some blue that goes
through without hitting any phosphor. The mixture or
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
phosphor thickness is modified to change the colour
temperature.
On p43, under “Current limiting”, you say it could be
run without the ground current returning directly to the
module. This is a big no-no in an EMC sense – you risk
having switchmode noise being radiated via the resulting
loop. The load ground must return to the PSU directly if
EMC isn’t to be a problem.
David Timmins, Sylvania Southgate, NSW.
Comments: we think it’s better to set the LED current and
choose a heatsink so that they do not run at an excessive
temperature rather than throttling them. However, an
over-temperature shutdown would be a good idea. We
think that could be implemented by attaching an NTC
thermistor to the LEDs with a series resistor wired to JP1
such that it shuts down the LM5118 if the temperature
is too high.
A comparator would probably be necessary to implement this function, given the wide range between the on
(3V) and off (0.5V) voltage thresholds. If we revise the
design, we’ll incorporate such a comparator. If the power
supply is regulated, it might be possible to use the thermistor to trigger under-voltage shutdown via pin 2 of the
LM5118 without any extra active components.
With 84 LEDs per group, we think there will be more
variation due to internal LED forward voltage differences
than the effect of removing one LED in a given series string.
Still, you are correct that a single LED failure will increase
the chance of more failures in the future.
Regarding the phosphor, we were more intrigued by the
use of a separate phosphor layer over the array of LEDs
rather than the phosphor being part of each single LED.
If a separate ground return is used, as long as that wire
parallels the supply wires and passes directly across the
driver PCB, there should not be excessive EMI as the current loop is still minimised. The return current doesn’t
need to pass through the driver board, but it needs to
closely parallel it to avoid EMC concerns. We should
probably have mentioned that in the article.
This is because the current consumed by the board itself
is tiny compared to the LED driving current. The majority
of that current will pass through the supply wire into the
board, out of the board into the LED, then return directly
to the power supply.
Water-cooled amplifier – joke or not?
When I saw the circuit for the new 500W Amplifier
(siliconchip.au/Series/380) in the April 2022 issue (pages
30 & 31), with the number of output devices and the fact
it was in the April issue, it brought back memories of an
April Fool type article in Wireless World many years ago.
The project was to build a 1kW amplifier. This was in
the days of germanium transistors, so there were quite a
few problems to be overcome.
One of these was heatsinking. They accomplished this
by using large numbers of output transistors mounted
on hot water/steam radiators with cold water running
through them, electrically connecting the output transistors together with car battery cables. Speakers were
another problem; they had to be re-coned with steel sheets.
These were days before digital audio, so great attention
had to be given to housing the turntable/pickup. The final
solution was to house them in a garden shed.
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One had to be very careful when setting up to play a
record, that in the haste to mate the pickup and record
in time to get back to the house to hear the first notes of
music, one did not drop the pickup. The resulting damage to the local glazing could produce substantial bills!
I don’t recall the power supply details, but I hope the
above brings a bit of a giggle.
Bruce Bowman, Canberra, ACT.
Comment: the idea of a water-cooled high-power linear
amplifier is not such a silly one. For a start, the pump
and fans could be in another room, so the listener would
not hear the noise. A decent water-cooling system would
also easily deal with the heat output of a 500W or even
1kW amplifier, possibly even several, depending on its
size. It might have been an April Fool’s joke, but we’re
tempted to try it!
True RMS voltmeter observations
I designed and built a dimmable power supply suitable
for a microscope filament lamp. I used a phase-controlled,
full-wave rectified, unsmoothed 12V supply. When I measured the voltage across the test lamp with one of my True
RMS DMMs, I got a reading, at full brightness, of about
6.3V, which was strange because the light globe filament
looked the correct colour for a 12V supply.
Even stranger, when I dimmed the light, the DMM
reading increased, peaked and then decreased. I tried my
other True RMS DMM, and it did the same. I then tried
my older DMM, which measures average, but is calibrated
for a sinewave, also my trusty AVO 8. They both showed
a similar response.
I then got my real True RMS voltmeter, a Sangamo-
Weston S68 AC-DC dynamometer voltmeter. Now I could
get voltage readings that matched the filament brightness
and colour temperature.
The dynamometer family of meters all measure True
S68
QM1320
QM1552 AVO 8 Mk3
Sinewave
10V
9.99V
9.98V
9.8V
Full-wave
rectified
8.67V
4.09V
4.16V
4.28V
Half-wave
rectified
6.56V
5.37V
5.10V
4.56V
RMS. They consist of a moving and a fixed coil; there is
no permanent magnet and no magnetic circuit. They rely
on the attraction between the two coils, which like the
moving iron meters, makes them AC-DC and True RMS
reading. As a bonus, having two coils, you can also configure them as a wattmeter.
I did some comparison measurements and plotted the
results. I then did some further measurements using halfwave and full-wave rectified AC waveforms, summarised
in the table above.
These differences became evident when I looked at the
waveforms with my oscilloscope. The first screen grab
(bottom left) shows the voltage measurement with the
waveform DC-coupled as 10.7V RMS. The second grab
(on the right) shows the measurement with the waveform
AC-coupled as 7.38V RMS.
So it seems that the S68 meter is making DC-coupled
RMS measurements while the others are AC-coupling the
signal, which shifts its centre point and thus changes the
RMS measurement. This illustrates why understanding
how your test equipment works can be a great help when
you get readings that don’t seem correct.
Rodger Bean, Watson, ACT.
Comment: some True RMS digital multimeters have a
button to switch between pure AC and AC/DC voltage
measurements for this reason. For example, our Agilent
U1253B meter has that option. Neither of the manuals
for the (now discontinued) QM1320 and (still available)
QM1552 multimeters mention an AC+DC option, so we
assume they don’t have that function.
Running three-phase gear from single-phase mains
Jon Hornstein writes in Mailbag (April 2022, page 8)
of Charles Steinmetz. He is well known to many home
metal machinists for the “Steinmetz Connection” (a great
title for a Bond or Bourne movie!).
Many industrial three-phase machines have been
snapped up at closure auctions and snaffled off home
into dingy, cramped spaces, but how to run them? Some
have resorted to using phase-shift capacitors to crudely
simulate three-phase power as described in his patent, to
operate their new prized acquisitions. The results are a
little rough and ready, but some swear by them.
Andre Rousseau, Auckland South, NZ.
Another ‘energy saving’ scam
You might be interested in the Voltizer energy saver –
https://getvoltizer.com/article/au
Alan Ford, Salamander Bay, NSW.
Comment: we mentioned the virtually identical Voltex
scam on page 10 of the May 2021 issue. The laws of physics still apply, as does conservation of energy. In practically all cases, the only way to reduce the energy used
by an appliance is to turn it off or replace it with a more
efficient version of the same thing.
SC
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AMD EPYC 7702 ES photographed by Fritzchens Fritz: www.flickr.com/photos/130561288<at>N04/49139472562/
from inception to cutting-edge technology
Over the last two issues, we’ve described the history of integrated
circuits (ICs), the manufacturing process, process nodes, wafer sizes
and EUV lithography. Along with EUV, another technology that is just
maturing and has fundamentally changed the way high-end ICs are
made is multi-chip modules. We shall now investigate that and other
cutting-edge chip technologies.
Part 3 – finFETs, GAAFETs, chip stacking & multi-chip modules – By Dr David Maddison
14
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IC
technology is approaching the
physical limits of feature size –
ie, it is becoming almost impossible to make transistors smaller or
increase density. In an attempt to overcome this, finFETs were developed and
now gate-all-around (GAA) FETs are
coming into use. After covering those,
we will look at 3D ICs and chiplets.
As density is not improving as
quickly as it used to, multi-chip modules (MCMs) containing ‘chiplets’ are
becoming much more widespread.
Designs are no longer limited to what
can fit onto a single, reasonably-sized
silicon die.
FinFETs and beyond
A fin field-effect transistor (finFET)
is a 3D Mosfet in which the gate is
enhanced vertically to make a ‘fin’,
forming three surfaces where the gate
interacts with the channel, rather than
just one (see Fig.57).
This is helpful because the planar
device can be made no smaller due
to the scalability restrictions of a 2D
plane. Also, the fins have a larger surface area. FinFETs are smaller than and
have superior performance to planar
CMOS devices. They were first commercialised in the mid-2010s and are
the dominant devices in the 14nm,
10nm and 7nm process nodes.
At the 5nm process node, undesired
variations in channel width in finFETs
can cause variability in behaviour and
the loss of carrier mobility. 3nm is
considered the limit of their usability.
Therefore, the industry is now moving
to a “gate-all-around” (GAA) technology in which the gate interacts with
the channel on all four sides.
GAAFETs and Moore’s Law
Since about 2010, the rate of
increase of transistors in a chip
Fig.58: a cross-sectional image of an actual 2nm gate-all-around (GAA) device
using nanosheets produced by IBM. This technology results in 333 million
transistors per square millimetre. The cell height is 75nm, width is 40nm,
individual nanosheets are 5nm high and separated by 5nm. The gate pitch is
44nm and gate length is 12nm. Source: IBM
decreased below the original prediction by Moore. Instead of doubling
every two years, it is now about two
and a half years.
The physical limits of transistor
size with current technology are being
approached due to increasing sourceto-drain leakage, limitations due to
the metals used in gates and limited
options for channel materials. The
channel is where charge carriers such
as electrons or holes flow between the
source and the drain.
In silicon, the smallest possible
gate size for a Mosfet was thought to
be about 7nm, although finFETs and
GAAs have somewhat lowered this
limit, perhaps to as low as 2nm for
the IBM GAA (Fig.58). Any smaller
and electrons can move between adjacent transistors by a process known
as quantum tunnelling. If that happened, a transistor could unexpectedly change its state.
By comparison, the diameter of a
silicon atom is around 0.2nm, so we
are discussing a structure of only about
10 to 35 atoms across. Presently, there
is no point in making transistors any
smaller in silicon than this.
The processor in an iPhone XS uses
7nm technology, and it was stated that
the active channel of a transistor gate
in it would be 7nm long, 7nm deep
and 20nm wide. Based on there being
5×1022 atoms/cm3 in a silicon crystal,
there would be about 49,000 atoms in
such a structure.
The apparent discrepancy between
the atomic radius of silicon and the
volumetric density is due to the way
the atoms are arranged in a crystal.
According to Wikipedia (https://w.
wiki/583Z), for the 5nm process node,
there are typically over 130 million
transistors per square millimetre.
Options for the future include “spintronics”, which exploits the spin state
of electrons, “tunnelling junctions”,
which use the quantum mechanical
process of quantum tunnelling, and
the use of nano-scale wires in the
channels.
One advantage of spintronic devices,
according to Professor Ian Appelbaum
(then at the University of Delaware),
STI stands for shallow
trench isolation
Fig.57: a comparison of planar, FinFET and gate-all-around FET devices. The gate operates at the interface shown in green. In
the gate-all-around (GAA) structure, the channel may be constructed from either ‘nanowires’ or ‘nanosheets’ (shown here).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 15
Fig.60: a possible transistor of the
future by Lawrence Berkeley National
Laboratory with a 1nm gate size. It is
fabricated from a carbon nanotube,
zirconium oxide and molybdenum
disulfide.
Managing chip defects
is that “silicon can now be used to
perform many spin manipulations
both within the space of thousands of
devices and within the time of thousands of logic operations, paving the
way for silicon-based spintronics circuits”. See Fig.59 and the video at
https://vimeo.com/32338065
Another approach is to use different
materials. Carbon nanotubes, molybdenum disulfide and zirconium oxide
were used to make a transistor with a
1nm gate size in 2016. Ali Javey did
that at the US Department of Energy’s Lawrence Berkeley National
Laboratory – see Fig.60. By comparison, human hair is 50,000 nanometres thick.
More recently, Tian-Ling Ren at
Tsinghua University in Beijing made
a transistor with a gate length of 0.34
nanometres. The materials used were a
titanium-palladium alloy for the metal
contacts, molybdenum disulfide and
hafnium oxide.
Fig.59: this early spintronics chip
developed in 2007 contains 16
spintronics devices. It was built
by Professor Ian Appelbaum and
doctoral student Biqin Huang at the
University of Delaware and Douwe
Monsma of Cambridge NanoTech.
Fig.61: schemes for 3D packaging as envisaged by AMD. TSV Pitch refers to
the distance between the through-silicon vias used for vertical connectivity. IP
refers to ‘intellectual property’ cores which are designs with a specific function
produced by a third-party vendor. Uncore refers to parts of the CPU that are not
part of the cores, such as cache memory and the memory controller. Source:
Advanced Micro Devices (AMD)
16
Silicon Chip
Three-dimensional ICs
ICs can be 3D either by having many
layers in a monolithic IC or by 3D
packaging. In the latter, multiple dies
are connected on top of one another
using through-silicon vias (TSVs) or
with solder bumps – see Figs.61 & 62.
For example, V-Cache is a technology from AMD that allows a cache
memory die to be stacked directly on
top of the CPU core die. This triples
the CPU cache memory without altering the size of the die or shrinking the
feature size.
This technology is related to chiplets, which we will discuss shortly.
Australia's electronics magazine
Not all silicon chips are made equal.
When IC dies are tested, several things
can happen. The worst scenario is that
the die is unusable and must be discarded. Alternatively, a chip may not
work reliably at the maximum design
speed, but could work perfectly well at
a lower clock rate. Such chips are usually marked and sold at lower prices,
with a lower default clock.
Some people try to increase the
clock speed to see if they can find
a higher speed that it will reliably
operate at (“overclocking”), as manufacturer speed ratings are very conservative and chosen for maximum
reliability.
Another thing that can be done in
the case of memory chips is if parts
of the memory are defective, they are
siliconchip.com.au
Figs.63(a) & (b): an example of how chip defects and differences in performance between different sections of a die are
managed. Each of the twelve CPU cores spread across two dies has its own characteristics, such as maximum stable
operating frequency and power consumption. Clocks are controlled and tasks are allocated based on a profile made for
each chip section after manufacture.
permanently locked out, and the chip
is sold as having less memory. Similarly, in CPUs or GPUs with multiple
computing cores, faulty cores can be
permanently locked out, and they are
sold as lower performance devices
with fewer cores.
In other words, most chips come
off the same production line. They
are then “binned” and sold according to the speed, power consumption
and other characteristics determined
during testing (usually before packaging, as there’s no point in packaging a
defective chip).
Fig.63 shows some statistics we
gathered from a computer CPU built
with 16 cores but sold as a 12-core
device. Presumably, those four cores
were disabled because they either
didn’t work or weren’t up to spec.
The second-from-right column in
each image shows the maximum readings seen during testing. Core 0 has
run at a maximum of 5.15GHz, Core 3
at 5.10GHz, while Cores 4 and 9 only
ran up to 4.475GHz. After manufacturing and testing, these limits are programmed into the chip based on the
maximum speed that each core can
reliably operate at.
Also, note how Core 3 consumed up
to 7.5W while Core 8 has never drawn
more than 1.71W, even though it ran
up to 4.525GHz (88.7% as fast as Core
3). Mobile chips are binned for power
efficiency, whereas desktop chips like
this one are mainly chosen based on
their peak performance. Still, better
efficiency does let the CPU run cooler
under load.
Core-to-core peak temperature
Fig.62: how through-silicon vias (TSVs) in DRAM dies (top right) and solder
bumps create a 3D package for a graphics processing unit. The whole assembly
is mounted directly on a PCB. Source: Wikimedia user ScotXW (CC BY-SA 4.0)
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
variation is also high, with Core 3
recording a peak of 59.1°C, while the
coolest core was Core 8, which only
ever reached 44.8°C (it's also the one
that uses the least power).
All of these variations are despite
the fact that the masks for each core
are identical, and they were made in
the same manufacturing process at the
same time.
Multi-chip modules (MCMs)
So far, we have mainly described
monolithic ICs that comprise only one
chip or die in a package.
“Multi-chip module” is a generic
term. Wikipedia defines it as electronic assemblies that come in various forms and involve multiple components, such as IC dies (chips) and
discrete components, all held together
Fig.64: AMD’s EPYC SoC (system on
a chip). Depending upon the model,
there can be up to eight CCDs (core
chiplet dies) plus one I/O chiplet.
Each CCD comprises one or two CCXs
(core complexes), depending on the
generation. A CCX is a quad-core or
octa-core CPU with a shared L3 cache.
This can give a total of up to 64 cores.
Source: AMD
August 2022 17
Fig.65: a hybrid integrated circuit in the form of an operational amplifier,
containing both discrete IC/transistor dies and thick-film resistors. According
to the Wikipedia definition, it is a form of MCM, but we would refer to it as a
hybrid IC. Source: Wikimedia user Mister rf (CC BY-SA 4.0)
on a substrate and contained within a
package.
Substrates may be of various forms,
such as printed circuit boards, ceramic
substrates or IC base plates with other
devices mounted on top. The entire
package assembly can be treated and
used as a component in the same manner as an IC.
Other terms for these MCM packages include “heterogeneous integration” and “hybrid integrated circuits”
(Fig.65). They are used to save space
and avoid designing customised ICs
because the desired functions can be
produced using separate off-the-shelf
components at a lower cost.
But there is no strict definition of
what an MCM is. We think it would
be clearer to reserve the term MCM for
assemblies containing monolithic ICs
and no other components and refer to
the other devices as hybrid circuits. So
that is the terminology we will use in
this article.
Earlier examples of MCMs include
IBM bubble memory (1970s), the IBM
3081 thermal conduction module
(1980s), superconducting multi-chip
modules (1990s) and the Intel Pentium
Pro (1995) – see Fig.66.
a standard “library” of such devices,
and can thus be combined in a modular
fashion to produce the desired functionality. Even chiplets from different
manufacturers can be used.
The use of chiplets in MCM devices
is a way to dramatically reduce the cost
of the design of large ICs. With a large
enough library or catalog of chiplets, it
would be possible to combine them to
rapidly develop many custom applications, resulting in major cost savings.
One estimate is that using chiplets
leads to a 70% reduction in design
and development costs and time to
produce a given device.
There are several advantages to
using chiplets.
One is that smaller dies with fewer
components generally have better
yields (a higher percentage of functional devices after fabrication) than
single larger dies with more components. It may thus be more economical
to use two or more individual dies tied
together than one larger one with the
same overall functionality and number of components.
As chips get larger and larger, the
yield drops naturally, as there is more
likelihood of defects in larger devices.
Sometimes it gets to the point that it
becomes uneconomical to produce
them. Chiplets are the most obvious
way to overcome that.
Also, dies can be “mixed and
matched” with different technology
nodes, production processes, materials (eg, some chiplets of silicon and
some of another semiconductor such
as gallium arsenide) and manufacturers.
More advanced MCMs
This use of chiplets to make MCMs
is a developing idea in the IC industry.
An important aspect of using chiplets
is how they are connected together in
the package, either horizontally or vertically (ie, when chiplets are stacked
on top of each other).
Individual chiplets are controlled
and unified by input-output and communication controllers that coordinate
the entire device as a single unified IC.
See the section below on chiplet interconnect standards.
Another advantage of MCMs is that
chiplets in the same device can be fabricated with various process nodes.
An example would be using a mixture of 7nm and 10nm process nodes
depending on performance and component density requirements, plus factors such as cost.
Fig.66: the
Pentium Pro
processor could
be regarded as
the first example
of a consumerlevel ceramic
multi-chip
module (MCM).
It contains both
a CPU die and a
separate cache
memory die.
Chiplets
A chiplet (called a “tile” by Intel)
is an IC with defined functionality
that is designed to be combined with
and connected to other chiplets in a
single MCM. Chiplets can come from
18
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Australia's electronics magazine
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For example, a chip for integrated
connectivity such as USB, Wi-Fi, Ethernet or PCIe does not need the latest
technology, but a GPU core will. The
CPU tested to produce Fig.63 uses this
approach, with two 7nm chiplets each
with eight compute cores (two disabled in each, for a total of 12) plus an
8nm I/O chiplet that interfaces those
cores to the outside world.
A manufacturer can easily customise an MCM for different applications,
such as having more graphics processing chiplets for more graphics capability and fewer memory chiplets for one
application, or the opposite for another
application – see Fig.70.
Examples of MCMs that use chiplets
on the market include AMD’s Ryzen,
Ryzen Threadripper and EPYC CPUs
(see Fig.64) and soon, Intel’s Ponte
Vecchio (described in detail below).
One clever aspect is that AMD produces consumer (Ryzen), workstation (Threadripper) and server (EPYC)
CPUs using essentially identical core
dies (CCDs). Ryzen chips have one or
two CCDs totalling 6-16 cores, Threadripper chips have up to four CCDs for
up to 32 cores (later versions up to 64),
while EPYC chips have up to eight
CCDs for up to 8/64 cores.
Reusing the same chiplets saves a lot
of R&D time and money and makes the
end product more affordable.
Layout of MCM integrated
circuits with chiplets
There are several possible physical
configurations in which chiplets can
be incorporated into a module. Some
are shown in Fig.67, in increasing levels of advancement.
(A) Shows four chiplets laid out
side-by-side on an organic substrate
Fig.68: details of an interposer showing internal connections in yellow on
the lower diagram. TSV stands for through-silicon via which are vertical
interconnects fabricated into the silicon. The micro bumps and C4 (controlled
collapse chip connection) bumps are connection pads.
such as a high-density PCB.
(B) Shows chiplets laid out side-byside on a passive silicon interposer
(see the description of interposer
below). 2.5D refers to side-by-side
chiplets with high interconnect densities to neighbouring chiplets.
(C) Shows chiplets mounted on
an electrically active interposer. The
active interposer may contain parts of
the system, such as a platform controller hub (PCH).
(D) Shows chiplets connected via
an active silicon bridge embedded in
the package substrate. The bridge acts
much like an interposer, but because
it is embedded in the package substrate, the chip can be much smaller
as it is level with the rest of the substrate material.
(E) Shows chiplets mounted directly
on an active silicon base using a bumpless bonding system developed by
TSMC. This is distinct from (C), in
which the attachment is via wafer
bumps.
An interposer (Fig.68) acts as an
interconnection between chiplets and
connects them to the external input/
output lines. An interposer can have a
higher wiring density than an organic
substrate.
Bumps are a type of connection
used on integrated circuits to eliminate wire bonding. In “wafer bumping” technology, solder spheres are
attached to the chip’s input/output
pads instead of wires.
Advantages include better electrical performance, lower inductance,
Fig.67: several manners in which chiplets can be laid out in a package, with a cross-sectional view at the bottom and
plan view at the top. Original source: Jawad Nasrullah, Palo Alto Electron Inc (http://ieee-edps.com/archives/2021/
c/1100nasrullah.pdf).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 19
HBM2
HBM2
Compute Dies
Rambo Caches 10 ESF
Compute Dies
Passive Die Stiffeners
Passive Die Stiffeners
Passive Die Stiffeners
Passive Die Stiffeners
Passive Die Stiffeners
Xe Link
IO Tile
HBM2
Foveros 3d Packaging
HBM2
Fig.69: Intel’s Ponte
Vecchio GPU package
with multiple individual
chiplets/tiles. HBM is highbandwidth memory; ESF is
enhanced SuperFin; EMIB
is Intel’s embedded multidie interconnect bridge;
Tile is Intel’s name for a
chiplet. Source: Intel
Compute Dies
Rambo Caches 10 ESF
Compute Dies
Passive Die Stiffeners
Graphics
Compute
I/O
AI
In-Package
Memory
Media
Xe Link
IO Tile
HBM2
HBM2
HBM2
DRAM
HBM2
EMIB under
passive die &
HBM2
greater current capacity, lower cost
and a smaller footprint.
Intel Ponte Vecchio
The Intel Ponte Vecchio (see Fig.69)
is an example of an advanced MCM
device in the form of a GPU (graphics
processing unit). It will be initially
used in the USA’s Argonne National
Laboratory's new ‘exascale’ supercomputer, Aurora and for artificial intelligence, machine learning and graphics
applications.
"Exascale" refers to a computing system capable of executing at least 1018
floating-point operations per second
(>1 exaFLOP).
Ponte Vecchio uses 63 ‘tiles’ (Intel’s
name for chiplets) in total; 47 active
tiles for computing functions and 16
for thermal management, with a total
of 100 billion transistors in a 77.5 ×
62.5mm package.
The device is partly fabricated using
“Intel 7”, which is their name for an
enhanced 10nm SuperFin fabrication
process. Some tiles use Intel 7, while
others are fabricated by TSMC using
their 7nm (N7) and 5nm (N5) nodes,
plus some others. For more information on Intel’s SuperFin technology, see the video at https://youtu.be/
Y04yHqLKs4w
Note that Intel’s 10nm chips are
comparable to 7nm devices from
TSMC or Samsung because, as we
pointed out earlier, those figures no
longer correspond directly to physical feature size.
As mentioned earlier, mixing chiplets/tiles from different process nodes
and manufacturers is one of the advantages of MCMs.
The eight GPU tiles used in the
device are manufactured by TSMC
using their 5nm process, and each
Persistent
Memory
Fig.70: Intel envisions
a package made of
standardised tile (chiplet)
components with the
combination adjusted to
suit the needs of different
users. Source: Intel
of those tiles contains 128 Intel Xe
GPU cores or “compute units” for a
total of 1024 vector units, 1024 matrix
engines and 128 ray tracing units per
device. Each device also has 64MB
of L1 cache memory and 408MB of
L2 cache.
The GPU tiles, memory and other
tiles (eg, for I/O) are all mounted
on the “base tile”. The base tile is a
646mm2 die with 17 layers. It includes
a “RAMBO” memory controller, voltage regulators, a PCIe 5.0 interface
and a CXL (Compute Express Link)
interface.
RAMBO (random access memory,
bandwidth optimised) uses Foveros
interconnection technology. RAMBO
uses novel SRAM (static random
access memory) and has four banks of
3.75MB memory groups for a total of
15MB per tile with eight tiles.
There is also up to 128GB of HBM2e
Chip development costs
According to Handel Jones, CEO of International Business Strategies Inc (Los Gatos, CA, USA), it costs US$40 million to design a 28nm
chip, US$217 million to design a 7nm chip, US$416 million for a 5nm device and a future 3nm design is expected to cost US$590 million.
Chiplets in multi-chip modules (MCMs) are one way to reduce costs. The use of chiplets is expected to reduce the cost of new device
elements because they can be produced as standard functional elements. Then, making a device means assembling standard chiplets
together, perhaps with some custom fabrication work too.
Physically, chiplets are much like any other chip, but they are designed to interface with other chiplets. Essentially, they are modular
elements or building blocks, selected from a library or catalogue of such devices.
Apart from chiplets, existing packaging solutions can integrate existing dies into existing packaging types. This includes 2.5D layouts
(multiple dies inside the same package arranged in a planar or stacked configuration) or fan-out (dies placed on “redistribution layers”
similar to circuit boards inside the package).
20
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1800
022 888
memory (according to Hardware
Times) or 64GB (according to Tom's
Hardware). Possibly there will be different versions of the chip with different memory sizes – not all specifications of the device have yet been confirmed. The memory is contained in
eight HBM2e (high bandwidth memory 2e) ‘stacks’, each eight dies high.
Ponte Vecchio's heat dissipation
is 600W with water cooling or 450W
with air cooling.
The entire surface area of all 47
active tiles in the Ponte Vecchio is
2330mm2, or 3100mm2 including the
thermal tiles. When fully packaged,
the area is 4844mm2. The package has
a staggering 4468 pins.
Intel has devised two technologies
to allow the tiles to communicate with
each other. The first is their embedded multi-die interconnect bridge,
and the second is Foveros die stacking packaging.
EMIB is a method to connect adjacent dies via a small embedded bridge
rather than the conventional, more
complicated method of connecting dies via a silicon interposer and
through-silicon vias (TSVs). For more
on this, see the video titled “Intel EMIB
Technology Explained” at https://
youtu.be/mRQFJFmYMak
Foveros 3D die stacking packaging is an interconnection technology
for vertical chip-to-chip bonding via
Fig.71: Intel’s Ponte Vecchio
GPU mounted on a PCB with the heat
spreader removed. A large number of these modules
would be used to construct an exascale supercomputer. Source: Intel
microbumps. There is a video about
this titled “Intel Foveros Technology Explained” at https://youtu.be/
eMmCYqN6KSs
The Ponte Vecchio package is
housed in a module, as shown in
Fig.71.
Chiplet interconnect standards
For chiplets to come into common
use, with the mixing of chiplets from
different manufacturers and fabrication processes, they will need to use
common connection standards.
In March 2022, Advanced Semiconductor Engineering, Inc (ASE),
AMD, Arm, Google Cloud, Intel Corporation, Meta (formerly Facebook),
Microsoft Corporation, Qualcomm
Incorporated, Samsung and TSMC
announced a standard for chiplet
interconnects called Universal Chiplet Interconnect Express or UCIe –
www.uciexpress.org
The objective is to have a single set
of standards (initially, UCIe 1.0), similar to that for PCIe expansion cards
(see Fig.72).
Predating UCIe, the Open Domain-
Specific Architecture (ODSA) from the
Open Compute Project Foundation
was released in 2019 (see siliconchip.
au/link/abef).
The objective was to “define an open
interface and architecture that enables
the mixing and matching of available
silicon die from different suppliers
onto a single SoC for data centre applications. The goal is to define a process
to integrate best-of-breed chiplets onto
a SoC”.
SoC stands for ‘system on a chip’. It
is unclear how or if this project relates
to UCIe, as no specific public information is available.
Conclusion
Fig.72: example packaging options from the UCIe 1.0 standard for chiplets.
MCM technology is very important at the moment. For example, it is
a key reason that AMD’s laptop and
desktop chips have been competitive
with Intel’s products over the last few
years. Intel is now using it too, as are
Apple (with the M1 Ultra) and Nvidia
(with the Hopper AI engine).
MCM technology is now entrenched
in the CPU market. It also appears that
AMD’s new line of high-end graphics
processors (RDNA3) will be based on
MCMs, and Nvidia may follow suit.
It probably won’t be long before all
but the most basic computer chips are
using MCM technology.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
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August 2022 23
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August 2022 25 $249
Wide-Range
hmMeter
Features & specifications
Resistance measurement range: 1mΩ to 20MΩ
Individual ranges: 1mΩ to 30Ω, 30Ω to 3kΩ, 3kΩ to 100kΩ, 100kΩ to 1MΩ, 1MΩ to 20MΩ
Resolution: 0.1mΩ in milliohms range (usable resolution closer to 1mΩ)
Accuracy: better than ±1%; typically close to ±0.1%
Test current: 50mA up to 30Ω, 0.5mA from 30Ω to 3kΩ, <50μA up to 20MΩ
Other features: auto-ranging, battery voltage display
Power supply: 6 x AA cells; up to 100mA drawn during tests
Battery life: around 24 hours of active use
This auto-ranging ohmmeter will measure just about any
resistance – from a handful of milliohms to many megohms!
T
here have been several occasions
recently where I have needed to
measure low resistances accurately. That includes some speaker
projects, where I needed to accurately
measure the DC resistance of a voice
coil to estimate a driver’s Thiele-Small
parameters or determine the resistance
of an air-cored power inductor.
Another time it was for the Capacitor Discharge Welder project (March
& April 2022; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/379), where I wanted to check
the resistance of the leads. Theory
said they should be 8mW (spoiler alert
– with the cables and handles, our
welder leads measured 10mW).
Your garden variety multimeter
won’t measure anywhere near that
low. Even my fancy, expensive meter
was way off the mark. So what do you
do when you want an accurate measurement of a really low resistance?
You reach for your trusty old lowohms meter.
Like many journeys in life, this
design started on one path but ended
up somewhere else. The initial plan
was to update a previous Milliohm
Meter design, adding a digital front
end and making it easy to use. But
halfway through, somebody said: why
26
Silicon Chip
not make it measure up to 20MW? This
added a bit of a spin on the design, but
we think the result is a very handy and
versatile device.
So here we have a design for a meter
that will measure resistances from a
couple of milliohms to 20 megohms,
with precision significantly better than
1% across that range. Using 0.1% resistors for calibration (which we recommend), we have seen precision in the
region of 0.1% across most of its range.
The trouble with multimeters
The problem with a standard multimeter is that the lead and banana
socket resistance is usually in the
0.2-0.5W range. The variability in
these resistances are too high to zero
them out.
Ohm’s Law is one of the first equations you learn in electronics. It is
therefore not surprising that this principal is used in most ohmmeters, with
the resistance measured using a constant current source and a voltmeter.
A typical multimeter combines these
inside the meter and uses two leads,
as shown in Fig.1.
When measuring a low resistance
this way, the constant current needs to
flow through the banana plugs, leads
Australia's electronics magazine
Part 1
by Phil Prosser
and from your lead tips into the device
you are measuring, then back again.
The voltage drops created by their
inherent resistances all appear to the
multimeter to be part of the measured
resistance. This results in significant
errors in low-resistance measurements.
There are other ways to measure
resistance accurately that don’t use
this principle. For example, the
Wheatstone bridge is a very elegant
approach that can be highly accurate.
But an automated meter based on one
of those would be very complicated.
If you are interested in this use for a
Wheatstone Bridge, Wikipedia is a
good place to find out more.
Kelvin connections
A four-wire measurement technique
can be used to minimise these errors.
Two wires deliver a known current
through the device under test, while
the second pair measure the voltage
across the device under test (DUT),
as shown in Fig.2. This neatly avoids
the majority of errors above.
By using a constant current source,
even if there are lead and connection
resistances, the current is always as
expected. The voltmeter is chosen
to have a high input resistance, so
siliconchip.com.au
Measured resistance
R=V÷I
Measured resistance
R=V÷I
Measured resistance
Rdut = Rref × (V2 ÷ V1)
Current = V1 ÷ Rref
V2 = Current × Rdut
Fig.1: a standard ohmmeter works
by passing a known, fixed current
through the device under test (DUT),
measuring the voltage across it, then
using Ohm’s Law to determine its
resistance. The problem is that the test
lead resistances are in series with the
DUT and included in the result.
Fig.2: two pairs of leads are used with
Kelvin connections, one to feed the test
current to the DUT and one to sense
the voltage across it. The voltage drop
across the leads supplying current
no longer affects the reading, and the
voltage drop across the other pair of
leads is so tiny that it doesn’t matter.
Fig.3: the problem with using the
method shown in Fig.2 to measure
high resistances is that the test current
needs to be really low. So we use this
method instead, where the DUT and
a fixed resistor form a divider, and
we measure the DUT resistance in
proportion to the fixed resistor value.
when the voltage measurement leads
are connected across the DUT, even if
the connection is a bit dodgy, we still
read the correct voltage, and the R =
V ÷ I calculation avoids the majority
of errors.
There is a bit more effort involved
in making really accurate resistance
measurements than just adding two
wires, but they are necessary to measure values well under 1W accurately.
You might wonder why all ohmmeters don’t work this way if it is so effective. Well, using a four-wire ohmmeter
is fiddly. There are four wires and most
of us only have two hands. Also, the
errors are no longer significant above a
few hundred ohms. Therefore, all but
a few meters (mainly benchtop meters,
but some are handheld) use the conventional two-wire approach.
The four-wire connection is called
a “Kelvin connection” after Lord Kelvin, who invented this to measure low
resistances in 1861.
While working on this meter, we
noticed some nice ‘Kelvin clip leads’
available at reasonable prices. These
are essentially crocodile clips with two
connections, one for the current source
and the other for the sense wire. We
found that these worked well over the
range of our meter, though for really
low resistances, four separate wires
will give better accuracy.
and, as the voltmeter, an analog-to-
digital converter (ADC) with a carefully designed voltage reference.
These both provide good long-term
stability for the meter and the ability
to use 0.5mA and 50mA bias currents,
which give measurements accurate
into the low-milliohm range.
Measuring down to about 1mW is
practical with a reasonably simple
meter. This is about the lower limit
before other factors become problematic. Even with higher currents, low
resistances mean we need to measure
low voltages. Our design uses special
very low offset and very low drift operational amplifiers.
If we had chosen, say, a common
TL074, the worst-case input offset of
4mV would introduce errors of up to
80mW on the low ohms range! The
device selected has a worst-case offset of 8uV over its entire operating
temperature range, which still could
result in an offset error of up to 1.6mW
(although we have not seen anything
like this sort of error in our testing).
This allows our meter to accurately
measure a 5mW shunt resistor, which
we feel is pretty good. To go beyond
this, design approaches that null out
these offsets are required – this is usually achieved by switching the current
source on and off, allowing subtraction of the nil current offset. By using
low-offset parts, we can avoid the need
to do this in our design.
low current and making the exact
same measurement. This is true, provided you can generate a stable current source delivering about 0.1μA
with an output resistance much
greater than 20MW. But that is not
easy to achieve.
To avoid this, we use a slightly different technique for measuring higher
resistances, as shown in Fig.3.
We use a high-value precision
resistor to establish the test current.
Because this is in series with the DUT,
the current flowing will depend on the
DUT’s resistance.
We do not try to control the current;
instead, we measure the voltage across
the reference resistor to measure the
current flowing for every measurement.
By also measuring the voltage across
the DUT, we have all the information
we need to determine its resistance in
proportion to the sense resistor.
For the 1MW range, we use a 1MW
sense resistor. The current through this
will vary. If we measure a 1MW resistor, the current will be Itest = Vsupply
÷ (Rref + Rdut), about 1.5μA. Keep in
mind that Itest = V1 ÷ Rref. This relationship is handy, as we will see in
a minute.
Ohm’s Law tells us that the resistance of the DUT is defined by Rdut
= V2 ÷ Itest, where V2 is the voltage
across the DUT. Combining this and
the previous equation: Rdut = V2 ÷ (V1
÷ Rref) = Rref × (V2 ÷ V1).
Our ADC does not have two channels, but it does have an independent
reference (V1) and measurement input
(V2). So by connecting our ADC reference across the reference resistor, we
Other challenges
We need to know the exact current
through the DUT and the voltage across
it. For DUTs with a low resistance, both
of these are easily achieved. We use an
LT3092 programmable current source
siliconchip.com.au
Megohms measurements
Adding a megohm range would
seem to be a simple matter of setting
the constant current source to a very
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 27
can measure the ratio of V1 and V2
with the ADC, and it simply comes
out as the measured value!
An added bonus of this approach is
that we don’t need to care about the
exact supply rail voltage or exact current through the DUT.
The catch here is that our measurement of the voltages across the reference and DUT resistors has been
assumed to be ideal, ie, our ADC has no
impact on the current flowing through
the DUT.
We already know that the current
will be in the region of 0.1μA, so the
ADC measuring the reference and DUT
voltages needs to have very high input
resistances and very low bias currents
(the current flowing into or out of the
input), or else the above assumption
will fail.
The ADC we have chosen, the
MAX11207, only has a bias current of
30nA. The voltage 30nA will develop
across a 10MW resistor is 30 × 10-9 ×
10 × 106 = 300 × 10-3V, or 0.3V. This
is a massive error, given that we will
be measuring about 1.5V.
So we had to add a buffer amplifier with a super low bias current.
Our choice, the MCP6V64, has a typical input bias current of 20pA and
a maximum offset current of 200pA
(the difference between the bias currents for the + and – inputs). Given
the current shortages, we have listed
a few alternatives that we have tested
in the parts list, but the MCP6V64 is
our first choice.
This reduces error with a 10MW
resistor to 200 × 10-12 × 10 × 106 = 2
× 10-3V or 3mV, a much more manageable error.
Circuit description
Let’s look at how these decisions
come together in our final design. The
complete circuit is shown in Fig.4.
The heart of this meter is the
MAX11207 20-bit ADC. We have
also tested this with the similar
MAX11210 chip, and the MAX11206
and MAX11200 should also work just
fine too. We chose this device as it is
very linear, provides great resolution
and is available in several pin- and
software-compatible forms.
It also has fully differential inputs
for both the ADC and the reference,
which can operate across the entire
input range. This means we can pull
some tricks and use the reference input
in a somewhat unusual manner for
high-resistance measurements.
This device has a range of settings,
the most important ones being internal calibration and internal buffering.
The software looks after this, and you
should only notice a slight delay at
power-on as they are initialised.
All the inputs to the ADC are buffered by the MCP6V64 quad operational amplifier. This device provides a very high input impedance,
low bias current and low drift buffer
for the ADC. All of its inputs and outputs can go close to the supply rails.
Its key feature is bias currents in the
pA range, and it can operate within
200mV of the rails.
When you get to the construction
stage, take note that the PCB must be
A preview to part two, showing how the batteries and PCB are mounted.
28
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
very clean around this surface-mount
IC. Flux and residue from soldering can increase the leakage currents
on these extremely high impedance
inputs, degrading the performance
of your meter. Thoroughly cleaning
and coating this area with clear protective lacquer is an essential step in
construction.
We have included 10kW series protection resistors from the sense inputs
to the buffers, and a 10nF capacitor
across the sense inputs, providing
modest protection to the circuit. That
said, we strongly suggest that you do
not connect the meter to live circuits,
as the application of more than a few
volts between the terminals could easily cause damage.
On the milliohms range, the reference voltage going to the REFP input
(pin 5) of IC1 via buffer IC2a comes
from an LM336 2.5V shunt regulator,
IC5 (lower left). We’re specifying the
LM336B type as it has tighter tolerances. The LM336 is set up with series
diodes and a trimpot, which allows
us to set it to exactly 2.50V, and the
diodes minimise its drift with temperature.
The reference input is connected
across a resistor of either 100kW, 1MW
or 20MW resistors on the higher ranges.
These can be found near IC5. The stability of these resistors is important for
the accuracy of these ranges. Again, we
will be calibrating the device, so initial
precision is less critical than stability
for these parts.
The MCP6V64 buffers for the ADC
(IC2b & IC2c) can drive to within a few
millivolts of the rails, but not quite to
the rails. To accommodate this, the
2.50V voltage reference and reference
resistors connect to ground through
D8, a BAT85 schottky diode. Similarly,
the DUT connects to the positive rail
through D4, a 1N5819 schottky diode.
These drop about 0.3V at the currents
we operate them.
We use a constant-current device
(IC3) to pass either 0.5mA or 50mA
through the DUT on the milliohms and
ohms ranges. The stability of the voltage and current references is essential
to the accuracy of these ranges. But
because we calibrate this meter against
known resistors, absolute precision is
less of an issue.
With a 3.6V supply rail, the maximum voltage that we can handle across
the DUT is 1.7V. This is calculated
...continued page 31
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Wide-Range Ohmmeter
1 double-sided PCB coded 04109221, 90.5 × 117.5mm
1 189 × 134 × 55 sloping ABS instrument case
[Altronics H0401]
2 3 AA cell battery holders with leads
[Altronics S5033 + P0455]
1 backlit 16×2 character alphanumeric LCD screen with
HD44780-compatible controller (LCD1) [SC5759]
2 4-pin tactile switches (S1, S2)
1 subminiature DPDT solder tag slide switch with
mounting screws (S3) [Altronics S2010 + S2014]
3 Omron G6H-5V or G6S-5V telecom relays or equivalent
(RLY1-RLY3) [eg, Altronics S4128B]
1 10kW top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR1)
1 10kW top-adjust mini trimpot (VR2)
1 2-pin header with jumper shunt (JP1)
(optional; only needed for in-circuit programming)
2 2-way vertical polarised headers with matching plugs
(CON1, CON2) [Altronics P5492 + P5472 + 2 x
P5470A]
1 16-pin header (CON3; for mounting the LCD)
1 6-pin header (CON4)
(optional; only needed for in-circuit programming)
1 2-pin right-angle polarised header with matching plug
(CON5) [Altronics P5512 + P5472 + 2 x P5470A]
1 5-pin header (CON6) (optional; for monitoring SPI)
2 red captive head binding/banana posts (CON7, CON8)
[Altronics P9252]
2 black captive head binding/banana posts (CON9,
CON10) [Altronics P9254]
various lengths of light-duty hook-up wire
1 pre-made set of Kelvin clip leads [www.ebay.com.au/
itm/263861879033] OR
1 DIY set of Kelvin clip leads (see section below)
Hardware
4 M3 × 10mm tapped metal spacers
4 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 × 6mm countersunk head machine screws
8 M3 shakeproof washers
1 small tube of clear neutral-cure silicone sealant
1 can of PCB conformal coating/protective lacquer
Kelvin clip leads (if not using pre-made leads)
2 Kelvin alligator clips [Mouser 485-3313 or 510-CTM75K; Digi-Key 1528-2279-ND]
1 2m length of 17AWG (1.0mm2) black figure-8 cable
[Altronics W4146] OR
1 2m length of two-core heavy-duty microphone cable
[Altronics W3028]
1 1m length of 18AWG (0.75mm2) red silicone hightemperature hook-up wire [Altronics W2400]
1 1m length of 18AWG (0.75mm2) black silicone hightemperature hook-up wire [Altronics W2401]
Semiconductors
1 MAX11207EEE+ 20-bit ADC, QSOP-16 (IC1) ●
(alternatives exist – see text)
1 MCP6V64-E/ST quad low-drift rail-to-rail op amp,
TSSOP-14 (IC2) ● ■
1 LT3092EST or LT3092IST programmable current
source, SOT-223 (IC3) ●
siliconchip.com.au
1 PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS 16-bit microcontroller
programmed with 0410922A.HEX, SSOP-28 (IC4) ●
1 LM336BZ-2.5/NOPB voltage reference, TO-92 (IC5) ●
1 555 timer, DIP-8 (IC6) ●
2 AZ1117H-ADJTRG1, AMS1117 or equivalent adjustable
1A LDO regulators, SOT-223 (REG1, REG2) ●
4 BC547 100mA NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q1, Q3, Q5, Q6)
2 IRLML0030TRPBF N-channel Mosfets, SOT-23
(Q2, Q4) ●
7 1N4148 75V 250mA signal diodes
(D1, D2, D5-D7, D10, D11)
2 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diodes (D3, D4)
1 BAT85 30V 200mA schottky diode (D8)
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D9)
Capacitors
7 10μF 50V radial electrolytic
5 10μF 16V X7R SMD M3216/1206-size ceramic ●
5 100nF 50V X7R through-hole ceramic
5 100nF 50V X7R SMD M2012/0805-size ceramic ●
2 10nF 100V PPS [Kemet SMR5103J100J01L16.5C] ●
4 10nF 50V X7R through-hole ceramic
Resistors (all axial 1/4W 1% metal film unless noted)
2 10MW 0.1% 25ppm SMD M3216/1206-size ●
1 1.5MW
1 1MW 0.1% 25ppm SMD M3216/1206-size ●
2 1MW 1% SMD M2012/0805-size ●
1 100kW 0.1% 25ppm SMD M3216/1206-size ●
1 47kW
1 33kW
1 22kW
1 10kW 0.1% 15ppm ●
7 10kW
4 4.7kW
3 3.3kW
1 2.2kW
2 1.2kW
1 820W
1 205W 0.1% 15ppm ●
2 100W
1 47W
2 1W 1% 50ppm ●
Calibration resistors (not required if another highprecision ohmmeter is available)
1 27.4W 1/4W 0.1% 15ppm axial [YR1B27R4CC] ●
1 2.94kW 1/4W 0.1% 15ppm axial [YR1B2K94CC] ●
1 97.6kW 1/4W 0.1% 15ppm axial [YR1B97K6CC] ●
1 976kW 1/4W 0.1% 15ppm axial [YR1B976KCC] ●
1 10MW 1/4W 1% 50ppm axial [MF0204FTE52-10M] ●
●
all these parts (with IC4 pre-programmed) are available
in a set (Cat SC4663) for $75.00.
■
compatible op amps need to be rail to rail, unitygain stable with very low input offset voltages and
input bias currents in a TSSOP-14 package. Good
alternatives are the MCP6V79, MCP6V34 and
OPA4317.
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 29
Fig.4: all measurements are made by IC1, the ADC, controlled by microcontroller IC4. IC4 switches relays RLY1-RLY3
to select the appropriate range and displays readings on the 16x2 LCD module. Voltage reference IC5 is used in the
lower (milliohms & ohms) ranges while IC3 regulates the test current, with Mosfets Q2 & Q4 switching it between
0.5mA & 50mA. In ratiometric (high-range) mode, IC3 and IC5 are not used, and precision resistors of 100kW, 1MW or
20MW are connected in series with the DUT.
30
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
by subtracting the voltage drops from
the supply rail due to diode D4 (0.3V)
and IC3 (1.6V). Let’s say we can allow
up to 1.5V across the DUT to be safe.
This means a maximum reading of
1.5V ÷ 50mA = 30W on the milliohms
range and 1.5V ÷ 0.5mA = 3kW on the
ohms range.
The maximum readings on the other
ranges are limited by the values of
siliconchip.com.au
the 100kW, 1MW and 20MW reference
resistors.
The current regulator
For the higher current (lower resistance) ranges (milliohms and ohms),
we use IC3, an LT3092 constant current source. We have chosen this for
its long term stability and ease of use.
This device sources a constant 10µA
Australia's electronics magazine
from its SET pin, and the OUT pin is
maintained at the same voltage as the
SET pin.
With a 10kW resistor from the SET
pin to GND, there will be 0.1V across
it (10kW × 10μA). The parallel combination of 205W, 47kW and 1.5MW
resistors results in 204.08W between
the OUT pin and ground, giving a current of 490μA. Therefore, the IN pin
August 2022 31
sinks 490μA + 10μA = 500μA for these
two currents combined, which is our
goal (0.5mA).
For the milliohms range, parallel
Mosfets Q2 & Q4 switch on, so the
two series 1W resistors are connected
in parallel with the 204.08W resistance. But note that the on-resistance
of the Mosfets (40mW || 40mW = 20mW)
adds to the 2W from the resistors. With
2.02W in parallel with 204.08W, we get
2.0002W. Thus the current from the
OUT pin will be 49.99mA + 0.01mA
or 50mA.
This way, the software can switch
the constant current source between
0.5mA and 50mA to suit the resistance
detected on the meter by controlling
the gates of Q2 and Q4.
We recommend using 0.1% 15ppm
resistors for the 10kW and 205W parts,
as specified in the parts list. We found
1W 0.1% resistors too expensive, so
we used 1% parts instead. These
are MF0207FRE52-1R, which have
a 50ppm temperature coefficient, so
they should be pretty stable.
We have provided the current source
with a good heatsink in the form of a
large copper fill on the top layer of the
PCB. The keen-eyed will also note that
we have placed a guard track around
the SET pin, which has an extremely
low current flowing from it. This will
reduce leakage currents interfering
with our carefully-designed current
source.
The reference resistors
We measure resistances in three
ranges above 3kW: 100kW, 1MW and
20MW. Our measurement technique
uses reference resistors at each of
these values. We have specified parts
that should provide a low temperature
coefficient and long-term stability. We
again recommend 0.1% parts where
reasonable.
20MW tight-tolerance resistors are
both expensive and uncommon, so
we use two 10MW resistors in series.
Stability is probably more important
than actual precision, as the meter will
be calibrated.
Again, cleaning off all flux and residue around these is very important,
as is coating it with a protective lacquer to optimise long-term stability.
We used 3.2 × 1.6mm SMD parts here
(M3216/1206) as our survey of suppliers found that 0.1% parts are more
available and less expensive in these
packages than in through-hole.
32
Silicon Chip
Switching the ADC inputs
Because we have five different
ranges and can’t handle any additional
bias currents, we need to do some
switching, and that’s done with relays.
The resulting switching arrangement
might initially look complicated but
there isn’t too much to it. Regardless,
the auto-ranging feature means that the
user doesn’t need to know the details.
One relay, RLY1, switches the reference input between the fixed 2.50V
reference and the three reference resistors. The other two relays, RLY2 and
RLY3, connect either the constant current device (IC3) or one of the three
reference resistors to the lower pin on
the Force connector, CON1.
The PCB has been laid out to handle
two of the most common types of signal relays, conforming to the Omron
G6H and G6S layouts. These are available from a range of electronic outlets. Just make sure you use 5V non-
latching versions.
Microcontroller and display
We have kept the display and control circuitry simple. We see this as
a utilitarian device, so it should put
function over form, and seek to ‘do
what it says on the box’ as simply,
cheaply and reliably as possible.
The LCD screen operates from the
VDD rail of about 3.4V, but these displays are almost always powered
from 5V. It turns out that the LCD bias
between the VDD and VO pins on the
LCD module needs to be about 5V,
but the actual controller is specified
to operate from 2.7V.
Therefore, we can generate a negative voltage of about -2V for the VO
bias reference and power the LCD
from the same VDD rail used for the
PIC micro. We need to do this because
some LCDs are incompatible with the
3.3V CMOS outputs from microcontrollers.
Annoyingly, it is very difficult to tell
which LCDs work with 3.3V logic and
which don’t. To avoid this frustration,
we have arranged the circuit so that all
LCDs should work.
The negative VO bias is generated
by 555 timer IC6, which oscillates at
a couple of kilohertz. This drives a
switched-capacitor voltage inverter
comprising two 10μF capacitors and
two 1N4148 diodes.
This runs off the relay 5V rail and
generates -2V or so. By using the 5V
rail, we avoid running this ‘noisy’
Australia's electronics magazine
circuit from a rail used for the sensitive current sources and ADC.
User interface
The goal of simplicity has led us
to remove all buttons from the front
panel and implement an auto-range
function. There are two buttons on
the PCB which are only used for calibration; we will discuss them later.
Upon initial connection, the Meter
will first check the DUT on the 100kW
range. Depending on the result, it will
increase or decrease the range appropriately until the optimal measurement range is found.
We start with the 100kW range as
most of the resistors we measure seem
to be less than this resistance. The way
the meter does auto-ranging means it
will generally jump from the 100kW
range straight to the final measurement
range. The initial test current will be
30μA or less, and this will increase
to 500μA for resistances between 30W
and 100kW, or 50mA for resistances
below 30W.
The highest possible power delivered is 75mW for a 30W resistor. This
should be safe for all bar the most sensitive devices.
The microcontroller used is a
PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS. This is just
right for the job in terms of pin count,
though we also use four ‘free’ digital
I/O pins provided on the ADC, as they
were too convenient to ignore! We
have used a simple schottky diode to
drop the 3.6V rail to something closer
to 3.3V for the ADC and the microcontroller, as 3.6V is right at their upper
limits.
The micro drives a 16 column,
two-line alphanumeric LCD with
an HD44780-compatible controller. These are bog-standard but, as a
result, come in a bewildering variety
of layouts.
We have included two very common
footprints on the PCB, which gives
you some options for selecting a display. When you purchase the display,
check the pin-out, as the LED backlight, in particular, seems to change
around a lot.
There are two headers that you probably won’t need. The first is the ICSP
header, CON4. This allows the microcontroller to be reprogrammed on the
board, which we used in development,
but many readers will build the device
with a pre-programmed PIC.
There is also a footprint for CON6,
siliconchip.com.au
SPI_MON. You should definitely not
need this unless you want to look at
the SPI activity between the microcontroller and ADC. This sort of facility
is super helpful when developing a
project like this.
We also have pads for an external
8MHz crystal and associated 22pF and
100W resistors, although these components are not required in this design
as we use the PIC’s internal oscillator
instead.
The ADC, buffer op amp and microcontroller are all surface-mount parts.
They are simply not available in
through-hole packages in the first two
cases. We also had a desire to fit this
project into a handy instrument case.
Power supply
The circuit operates from six AA
cells. We chose this approach to ensure
the meter would have a good runtime
and that the 5V rail stays up as the batteries discharge.
The meter can draw close to 100mA
when measuring low resistances. This
should provide over 24 hours of runtime on a set of batteries, which will
be fine provided you do not forget to
switch it off overnight!
There are two linear low-dropout
regulators. One has a 5V output to
power the relay coils, LED backlighting on the LCD screen and the -2V
generator (REG3). The other has a 3.6V
output (REG2) to power the ADC, buffer op amps and micro. Both regulators
are specified as the AZ1117 type, but
there are many pin-compatible LDO
regulators (usually with 1117 in their
part code) that will work fine too.
We’ve provided all the components
to allow two identical adjustable regulators to be used for REG2 & REG3.
Still, you could use a fixed 5.0V output
regulator for REG3, omitting the resistor between the OUT and ADJ pin and
its series capacitor, and replacing the
resistor between ADJ and GND with
a 0W resistor (or a short piece of wire
across the pads).
You could theoretically do that for
REG2 as well, but unfortunately, 3.6V
is not available as a fixed output option
on this type of regulator. So stick with
the adjustable type for REG2.
Kelvin leads
We used Adafruit 3313 Kelvin clips leads with
the prototype, which are amazingly cost-
effective; certainly less expensive than a
double espresso (let alone that smashed
avo!). Availability from the usual suppliers is mixed. We also tried Mouser Cat
510-CTM-75K, which is a delight to use
but rather more expensive.
These are simple to wire up, as
shown in the adjacent photo. All
you need to do is wire the Force+
and Sense+ wires to either side
of the “+” Kelvin clip (with the red
wire) and the other two terminals
to the remaining black wires of
the “-” Kelvin clip. Keep in mind
that the force and sense wires
only contact either side of the DUT lead.
Where you measure larger or more fiddly items, separate
force and sense test leads might be better. Again, the force current must run
through the whole item you wish to measure the resistance of, and the sense
lines are connected to measure the part you desire, as shown in Fig.5.
We made two sets of leads for our meter. One set had separate sense and
force leads, and these are essentially conventional multimeter leads.
We made them using 18AWG silicone-coated high-temperature hook-up
cable (Altronics W240X), which is very flexible. We connected these wires to
clips for the force and probes for the sense lines.
We did not use these much in the end, as the Kelvin clips are excellent right
down into the low-milliohm region.
We used Altronics Cat W4146 sheathed figure-8 flex for our Kelvin Clips,
though we feel that a lighter gauge would be easier to use if you can find it. We
used coloured heatshrink tubing to clarify which wires are + and – (although
this generally isn’t important when making measurements). One Kelvin clip
connects to “Force -” and “Sense -” while the other goes to the “Force +” and
“Sense +” sockets on the meter.
The length of leads should not matter as the conductors are close, so any
EMI picked up should mostly cancel out. We felt that 600mm was about right,
but that is a matter of preference.
If you don’t want to make up your own set of Kelvin clip leads, they are available to buy pre-made at reasonably low prices at sites like eBay. Search for
“LCR clip leads”. For example, www.ebay.com.au/itm/263861879033
Next month
We don't have space in this issue for
all the construction, testing and set-up
details, so they will be in a follow-up
article next month.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: when working with Kelvin probes, it doesn’t matter whether you connect
the ‘sense’ leads closer to the DUT than the ‘force’ leads or not. Regardless, the
section between the two connections on either side is not measured because
there is no current flowing through it or the measurement point is further along.
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 33
The History of
What was the genesis of Silicon Chip magazine? How
did it come about? Why would anyone have had the
foolhardy idea to launch a new electronics magazine in
a crowded Australian market in 1987?
Leo Simpson, the founder of Silicon Chip, tells how the
seeds were sown several years before, in 1984, when he
was editor of “Electronics Australia” magazine.
B
ack in July 1984, while I was editor
of Electronics Australia magazine,
I wrote a fateful editorial about the battle between the two competing videotape formats, VHS and Beta.
Sony was the inventor of the Beta
format but over the years, the VHS
format had grabbed the lion’s share of
the market. Both formats were quite
similar in principle, using a rapidly
34
Silicon Chip
spinning drum carrying the video
heads and thereby helically scanning
the videotape as it passed part way
around the drum.
Today, VHS would be regarded as
‘open system’ like the IBM PC, while
Beta would be compared to a ‘closed
system’ like Apple’s iPhone. But while
Beta was regarded as technically superior (much like Apple products today),
Australia's electronics magazine
VHS had gradually whittled away that
lead. And then big department stores
started giving major price reductions
for Beta machines. What was happening out there?
Until then, readers would often
write or phone to ask us which VCR
format they should buy. I would tend
to summarise the position outlined
above but would never make a ‘buy’
recommendation.
That all changed when I attended
a major presentation by the German
company BASF with the release of a
premium grade four-hour tape for VHS
machines. Significantly, they did not
bother with a Beta version. I closely
questioned the BASF people about
this, and their verdict was clear: Beta
had lost the battle. Hence, I decided
to write that fateful editorial.
I was telling the truth, but did not
reckon on the financial consequences.
Sanyo, a manufacturer of Beta format
VCRs and a major advertiser in Electronics Australia, immediately cancelled all their advertising. That was
drastic enough, but then they really
upped the ante by cancelling all advertising in all magazines published by
John Fairfax’s magazine subsidiary,
Sungravure.
In today’s money, that would have
amounted to many hundreds of thousands of dollars! I was quite shocked,
but the Sungravure management must
have suffered apoplexy.
And yes, I was absolutely right about
Beta; sales of all Beta VCRs pretty
much ultimately ceased worldwide.
But not too long after that editorial,
in November 1984, the ownership of
Electronics Australia was transferred
from Sungravure Pty Ltd to the Federal Publishing Company. My editorial
may not have been the only factor in
that transfer decision, but it must have
been a major component.
Looking back, I had been quite
naïve; the editorial should have been
vetted by senior management. To be
honest, if Neville Williams had still
been the editor-in-chief of EA, the editorial would probably not have seen
the light of day.
Having said that, it was quite a precipitous decision by the Fairfax senior
management to then transfer EA to
Federal Publishing. Electronics Australia was very successful and one
the most profitable magazines in the
whole group.
If I had been the general manager
siliconchip.com.au
of Sungravure, I would have summarily fired the editor! Yep, I would have
given that idiot editor his marching
orders and then patched things up
with the advertisers.
Fortunately, that did not happen,
and I managed to keep almost the
entire staff together for the transfer:
staff writers, advertising sales and
even some of the production people
came across. Why? I suppose they
must have liked me, but the bigger
reason was that we all loved working
together on ‘our’ magazine!
That delusion about ‘our’ magazine
was part of the reason that I wrote that
fateful editorial. And that delusion
was very quickly erased as we started
work for the new company in the new
location at Rosebery. Talk about culture shock! Nobody liked it.
Federal Publishing was the magazine division of the very successful
Eastern Suburbs Newspapers group.
But my judgement was that while their
burgeoning local newspapers were
highly prosperous, they did not treat
their magazine journalists at all well.
The company was beset by high staff
turnover and that also affected EA and
Electronics Today International (ETI),
which had also been absorbed by the
group some years earlier. So we started
to lose staff. We also lost access to our
very comprehensive library, but we
did manage to have a spacious new
laboratory built, which we shared
with ETI.
The situation worsened when the
operation was transferred to a huge
plant in Alexandria. This was formerly
the CIG plant which manufactured an
extensive range of industrial gases.
Alexandria was far more remote,
forcing most people to drive long distances, and more people in the company left, including our very experienced draftsman, Bob Flynn. We were
forced to use non-technical company
layout artists. So it was difficult to
function as well as we had, and we
ended up with a much smaller laboratory that was not as well-equipped.
The magazine was in decline.
Eventually, after a great deal of
thought, I decided to make an offer to
purchase Electronics Australia from
Federal Publishing. My offer was
based on a very significant amount of
cash for which I would have needed
to mortgage my home. In hindsight, it
was a bold (rash?) decision, but I was
prepared to take the risk.
siliconchip.com.au
The editorial from the July 1984 issue of Electronics Australia
Well, it got very short shrift. I
can’t remember the exact sequence
of events, but within a day or two, I
was called in to senior management
and dismissed. They told me to hand
over the keys to my company vehicle,
to clean out my desk while a security
guard looked on and I was escorted off
the premises.
Assistant editor Greg Swain kindly
drove me home, and that was that.
Shortly after, Greg Swain and project designer John Clarke also decided
to move on. They both resigned and
left some four or five weeks after my
departure, having been released early
from their mandatory 12-week notice
periods. That was around the end of
April or early May 1987, if my memory serves me correctly.
At that stage, none of us really had
a clue what we were going to do, and
there was every chance that we would
go our separate ways. We spoke often
over the phone during the following
weeks and explored various business
ideas. But electronics and magazine
publishing were what we knew.
Eventually, Greg Swain and I
decided to take a big risk, to start a
new magazine. We might have been
familiar with running an electronics
magazine, but there would be an enormous difference between taking over
a long-established magazine like Electronics Australia and starting a new
one from scratch in a crowded market!
There were already three electronics
magazines on the Australian market:
EA, ETI and Australian Electronics
Monthly (AEM – founded by ex-ETI
Australia's electronics magazine
editor Roger Harrison), plus several
competing trade electronics magazines. Any casual observer would have
concluded that we would fail within
very short order.
That Silicon Chip continues as one
of the very few electronics magazines
in the world today proves that such a
forecast would have been wrong.
Forming the new magazine
We basically started with nothing.
Apart from a Fluke 77 multimeter, a
couple of soldering irons, an IBM PC
with two floppy drives and a few reference books, that was all I had. Oh, I
did have a slide rule (an anachronism
even then) and a scientific calculator.
Greg Swain was in much the same
boat but without a computer (it was
1987, after all; few people had the
cash to buy an IBM PC). My computer
skills were confined to knowledge of
MS-DOS and WordStar and little else.
While I did have a Business Degree,
I had no experience running a business where I was the owner, not an
employee. That was pretty daunting.
But I did have a very good knowledge
of how to run technical magazines.
Before I had been given the boot, I
had been Managing Editor of EA, ETI,
Your Computer and Sonics magazines.
I also had good knowledge of magazine
printing and the role of a publisher.
So, where to start? Fortunately, I was
introduced to a very helpful solicitor
(whom I still work with today). He, in
turn, introduced me to a great accountant who helped me with a good connection to a bank manager at the ANZ.
August 2022 35
The Playmaster 200 with its front
panel attached. It was a very ambitious project.
Then I had to seriously exercise
some of my business and publishing knowledge and make use of my
business contacts. I had to line up
a commercial printer and typesetter (this was well before the days of
desktop publishing) and a magazine
distributor for Australia’s thousands
of newsagents. And then I had to line
up advertising support.
The printer we selected was Masterprint Pty Ltd, based in the NSW country city of Dubbo. While this posed
some logistical problems, they were
well-versed in dealing with publishers from all over Australia, and the
arrangement worked well.
Ironically, just a few years later,
Masterprint was bought out by Hannanprint Pty Ltd – the owners of Eastern Suburbs Newspaper and Federal
Publishing, the company we used to
work for! Funnily enough, that caused
no problems at all, as we had developed very good relationships with the
whole staff at Masterprint.
Greg and I looked at several offices
in which to start our fledgling business but decided to be very cautious
and start in the basement of my home
on Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
In fact, it was in three very spartan
rooms adjoining my garage, with little lighting and not much else. I purchased a PC-clone with a 5.25-inch
floppy and a 20MB hard drive – wow!
We also purchased a 300 baud dial-up
modem.
Greg set about learning about computers while I plastered the ceilings
with Gyprock, installed lighting and
set up an office.
We had two desks, two computers,
a few ordinary chairs and a portable typewriter. To provide more desk
space, I had a table tennis table which
split into two sections. We also had
an electric jug to make tea and coffee. Oh, joy.
Some time later, Jack O’Donnell of
Altronics visited our ‘office’ and commented favourably on our “Readymix
The interior of the Playmaster 200 Amplifier was faithfully reproduced in
the cartoon on the opposite page.
36
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
carpet”, ie, the concrete floor, since
that was how he started out.
In July 1987, we incorporated Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd and
made a start on the contents of our first
issue. In fact, it was only a few weeks
before that we had decided on the
name of the magazine: Silicon Chip.
There were already too many companies out there, publishing and otherwise, with electronics in their name.
We needed something different but
which still encapsulated what the
magazine was about. Out of a list of
dozens of possible names, only one
stood out: Silicon Chip.
It was not evident to most people at
the time, and most had the impression
that the magazine must be about computers. Well, that was part of it, but
I maintained then that silicon chips
would become embedded in every
aspect of human lives. I had no idea
just how true that would turn out to be.
If you looked through the first
96-page issue in November 1987,
which featured a 7-digit frequency
counter on the cover, there was little to
indicate how just how small our operation was. There were just four of us
on the staff: Greg Swain, John Clarke,
Bob Flynn and me.
We also had a list of “regular” contributors, which was quite funny, considering that we had just started. All
those people were previous contacts
that we had known for years and fortunately, they and quite a few others
stuck with us for many years.
Crucially, we had very good advertising support right from the beginning
from three key companies: Altronics,
Jaycar and Dick Smith Electronics. We
could not have started without them,
but fortunately, they had faith in us.
Of course, we had no laboratory and
virtually no test equipment; not even
an oscilloscope. That came a little later
when I purchased an old Tektronix
scope that weighed a ton. Fortunately,
John Clarke was quite well equipped
with a 2-channel oscilloscope, a protoboard (for lashing up circuits) and his
much-prized Beckman DMM – much
better than a Fluke DMM, according
to him!
We designed our prototype PCBs
using the old tape process and etched
them ourselves.
Later, my good friend Bob Barnes
(now deceased) of RCS Radio Pty Ltd
would make our prototype boards and
also stock them for sale to readers.
siliconchip.com.au
One of Brendan Akhurst’s
earliest works for Leo
Simpson. This cartoon
was reproduced from
Electronics Australia, April
1985, page 48. That’s Jim
Rowe wearing a barrel.
Leo is shown working on
the Playmaster Series 200
stereo amplifier design.
The first article of this
amplifier was published
in the January 1985 issue
of EA. Subsequent articles
were delayed due to noise
problems in the moving
coil preamp, and the series
wasn’t finalised until the
May 1985 issue.
Ultimately, the projects were very well
supported with kits by our three key
advertisers, Altronics, Jaycar and Dick
Smith Electronics.
Some of the initial project designs
came from contributors. A few months
later, we started getting letters from
readers for Circuit Notebook contributions and letters to “Ask Silicon Chip”.
Magazine format
We had thought very carefully about
the look and style of the new magazine. I wanted it to be clear and very
easy to read. At that time, Dick Smith
was running a brilliant new magazine,
siliconchip.com.au
Australian Geographic. Dick had set
very high standards for page layout,
outstanding photography, excellent
writing and proofreading and lastly,
excellent printing. I wanted to emulate his approach.
As a first step, I used the same type
font for the body copy as in Australian Geographic. It was Melior, a serif
font with large lower case, making it
very easy to read [we still use it today,
including for this article – Editor]. We
decided to use a similar circuit drawing style to that used in EA, but we
would have to develop all our own
circuit symbols and so on. That was to
Australia's electronics magazine
be Bob Flynn’s task – he was an excellent draftsman.
The circuit diagrams were done by
hand using stick-on bromide symbols
and connections made with Rotring
drawing pens. PCBs were designed
using stick-down tape for tracks; the
overlay components and wiring were
drawn by hand and by tracing drafting templates.
Very early in the piece, I had the
brilliant idea of getting the late Brendan Akhurst to prepare cartoons for
the Serviceman pages. While getting
Brendan to do this work was a wonderful idea, I must admit that it was
August 2022 37
This cartoon by Brendan Akhurst
was published in the June
1988 issue of Silicon Chip as
part of the regular monthly
Serviceman column.
pioneers in the field of drone technology, Bob Young. You can read his latest
story on that subject in the March 2022
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/15245).
This fitted with my belief that
merely concentrating on small-scale
electronics was to ignore some of the
far-reaching major technology developments worldwide.
Getting into financial strife
not original; it came from the British
magazine Television. But Brendan did
it so much better, and his work was so
much funnier too.
Greg Swain did all the magazine layouts. All the editorial copy was written
and edited on the PCs, and we received
most contributed material via our 300
baud modem. We would watch the text
coming in on a green-screen monitor at
about 30 words per minute. That was
state of the art!
After all the editing had been done,
we would squirt the text down the
phone line to our typesetters in Chippendale and a day or so later, the type
galleys (continuous proofs with the
type in correct size, width, etc but not
‘laid out’ in any way) would arrive by
courier.
Greg would then do paste-ups of
the page layouts, leaving space for
photos, circuits and wiring diagrams.
The 16-page sections of the magazine,
together with advertising material,
would then be couriered back to the
typesetters and they would produce
full-page bromides.
We would then proofread and correct photocopies of these pages before
sending the final bromide layouts to
the printers at Dubbo. (There’s more
on our editorial production systems
later in this article).
Many of the early Silicon Chip
designs were model railway projects.
This came from my own hobby interest, but they turned out to be very popular because there was virtually no
other source of DIY circuit designs. My
38
Silicon Chip
The first couple of years of the magazine were not smooth sailing. In fact,
they were extremely difficult. While I
had a great deal of experience in running and publishing technical magazines while working at Sungravure and
then at Federal Publishing, I quickly
realised after only three months or so
that we would go out of business very
soon unless I immediately changed
tack.
The problem? The print run was far
interest in railways, large and small, too large. Unless I reduced it drastialso led to the first long series from cally, we would crash.
Bryan Maher on “The Evolution of
Stupidly (rashly?), I had assumed
Electric Railways” (29 articles in total; that we would quickly match the magsiliconchip.au/Series/246).
azine sales of EA and ETI, and I set
Some readers sneered at the first the print run accordingly. But one of
few articles because they were mainly the problems of publishing I was yet
about steam locomotives. Funny that, to become fully aware of is that there
but that’s where electric railways is typically a gap of about two months
evolved from. As the series continued,
or more between a magazine going on
some of those readers admitted that sale at newsagents and getting the sales
the articles had become very interest- figures, then there is more delay before
ing and actually incorporated lots of the publisher is paid in full.
very complex electronic engineering.
So at least three issues had been on
That included AC-DC converters, sale, and another was due to go to print
extremely heavy-duty variable fre- before I realised the extent of the brewquency inverters for driving huge ing disaster. Of course, I had to pay the
synchronous traction motors, diesel- printer for every single magazine that
electric locomotives with inverter had been printed, whether they were
drives, dynamic braking, radar- sold or not. So I was already looking
controlled anti-slip traction control at a huge loss after only a few months.
(before it became commonplace in Should I close the whole thing down
cars) and so on.
before our home was in jeopardy? The
Anyone who ploughed through that situation was that dire.
entire series would have gained a very
Greg Swain and I then had a hurgood understanding of today’s very riedly arranged meeting with my
high-speed trains in Japan, France, solicitor and one of my closest busiChina and elsewhere in Asia and ness friends to survey the wreckage.
Europe.
I went home shattered. I thought that
After that series, I continued the Greg had probably concluded that we
themes of electronics in diverse fields, would close down the whole thing. I
whether they were in power engi- was facing the ugly possibility that this
neering (eg, long-distance EHV DC was the only practical way out.
links), medical technology (all sorts of
But after a couple of long and sleepimplants) or defence with an empha- less nights over the weekend, I came
sis on drone technology.
to a different conclusion. First, I had
In fact, we used to have a regular to immediately and drastically cut
monthly column of remote control the print run, while bearing in mind
which was introduced in the Octo- that too much of a reduction would
ber 1989 and written by one of the mean greatly reduced distribution
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
to Australia’s huge network of thousands of newsagents – which would
mean lost sales.
I also had to produce a drastically
different cash-management projection
since my first effort had clearly been
from la-la land. I also had to start paying Greg Swain. He had initially put
money into the venture, but I had to
acknowledge that he could not sustain
the losses so far.
Severely chastened by developments to that date, we decided to continue. I should also point out that we
had not taken out a business overdraft
with the bank to start our operations,
so we were very much swimming out
there in a big and savage ocean.
After that process, false rumours
arose that Gary Johnston of Jaycar
had put money into the magazine to
keep it going. I could see how those
rumours might have arisen. After all,
Gary was a very good friend of mine,
but I was mortified nonetheless. If it
had been true, it would have significantly impinged on our ability to sell
advertising space to other companies.
Having said that, he did surprise me
with a generous gift very early in the
piece. Having visited us in our ‘offices’,
he decided that we really needed a fax
machine and so one arrived by courier
the next day. I was quite overcome and
immediately phoned him at home, to
thank him!
It was almost two years before the
magazine started to break even and
I could start paying myself. It took
quite a few more years to make up the
losses, but we survived and eventually
prospered.
Along the way, I gained a great deal
more practical knowledge about financial management and the realisation
that there are no guarantees that any
business will continue. And, of course,
there would still be many hurdles to
overcome.
Those early days were really very
tough and stressful for all four of us,
and we worked much harder than we
ever did at Electronics Australia magazine. My wife Kerri was also heavily
involved, handling a lot of the work
of packing the thousands of subscription copies; she continued to do that
for well over 20 years before we put
it into the hands of a mailing house
in Melbourne.
I should state that while producing the magazine was a lot of hard
work, it was not all misery. There was
siliconchip.com.au
also plenty of humour and repartee. I
remember one particular instance that
was quite funny.
Because we were working in pretty
cramped conditions and were all anxious to get through the work, there
was often a lot of swearing, usually
over trivial matters. With my wife and
three daughters (upstairs) in mind, I
decided that it was all going too far,
and I instituted the ‘swear jar’. Anyone
who swore had to put 10c in the jar for
each and every swear word.
It got really frustrating. You would
swear, realise that you had just sworn
and then curse again, which entailed
a double penalty. But Bob Flynn,
initially one of the worst offenders,
became quite insufferable. Instead of
swearing, he would exclaim “Upon my
soul” or “Oh, goodness me!” or some
other mealy-mouthed expression.
After about a week of this, I got thoroughly exasperated with the whole
scheme and canned it. I should say
that John Clarke was not there every
day at that time, and he didn’t swear
anyway. The saint.
Bob Flynn admitted afterwards that
he would swear almost continuously
each time he drove home, until the
process came to an end. The sod. I
can’t remember what we did with the
contents of the swear jar.
We might have bought a cake for
someone’s birthday. That was a tradition that we continued right up until
the pandemic hit in 2020. Chocolate mud cake was always a popular
choice.
Editor: It didn’t end there – when
I started working at Silicon Chip in
2010, my desk was between Leo Simpson’s and Greg Swain’s, and I often
copped the swearing in stereo!
I should explain about John Clarke
not being present during the swearing saga. In about December 1988,
John announced that he was resigning and was going on a lengthy world
trip (including what was to be an arduous journey through Africa) with his
newlywed wife Robyn, and he did not
know whether he would ever return.
That was a bitter blow, but we had to
carry on as best we could.
Shortly after that, a New Zealand
student, Malcolm Young, joined us
and filled in the gap left by John Clarke.
Inevitably, his accent was the source
of much mirth. Fortunately, he took
it all in good spirit and gave as good
as he got.
John Clarke eventually returned in
about May the following year and is
still working on the staff today. Thanks
so much, John.
Sometime in 1988, I suffered severe
back problems and ended up in hospital for a few weeks, during which
I could barely walk. I wasn’t much
better when I came home and would
spend another couple of weeks slowly
recovering.
It was at that time that I had the
idea for another project. Shut in the
bedroom, I could not attract anyone’s
attention, including that of my wife
when I might have wanted a cup of
tea or other ministration.
The result was the “Remote Controlled Chimes Unit” designed by John
Clarke, featured in the August 1988
issue. The idea was that you could
The cartoon used as the lead-in
for the Remote Alert/Doorbell
project from the August 1988
issue of Silicon Chip (siliconchip.
au/Article/7684).
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 39
This shows part of the
mezzanine area of our first
commercial premises. Greg
Swain is in the foreground
while our draftsman Bob
Flynn is beavering away
on his drafting board on
a circuit diagram. All the
circuits were hand-drawn.
A computer and CAD
software would come later.
press the button on a keyring transmitter to attract attention.
The project was a pretty good
idea, but the real genius was in the
pair of cartoons produced by Brendan Akhurst and reproduced in these
pages. I should state here that the cartoons bore no resemblance to the persons depicted therein.
Of course, mobile phones have
utterly superseded the need for that
project. That process would occur
many times in the following years,
whereby a useful magazine project would be made obsolete by the
advance of electronic technology.
Leaving the family home
Ultimately, the time came to move
our magazine operation out from the
basement of the Simpson family home.
After a few years, we had more staff,
and I was fed up with working out of
a cramped basement and the fact that
it all impinged on the daily life of my
wife and our three young daughters.
I will never know how my wife
coped with all the daily stress, but
I am eternally grateful that she had
faith in me.
So in May 1990, we moved into
a capacious industrial unit in Warriewood, also on Sydney’s Northern
Beaches. I had vertical blinds and carpet installed, but apart from that, there
40
Silicon Chip
were no creature comforts. It was cold
in winter and hot in summer, but I had
negotiated a very good rental agreement for the first year!
By this time, we had more staff,
more desks, filing cabinets, the start of
a very good technical reference library,
more test equipment and so on. We
needed that space.
It was also during that time that Ann
Jenkinson (née Morris) joined the staff
to provide all the secretarial duties.
Among our many valued and loyal
staff, Ann was crucially important to
the whole team, eventually becoming
office manager. She stayed with us right
up to her retirement in March 2021.
Desktop publishing
During this first year in Warriewood,
I wanted to streamline our editorial operations. I looked seriously at
purchasing a large bromide camera;
second-hand, of course. But I quickly
discarded that idea when we got some
desktop publishing software.
At that time, Quark Express was the
standard for desktop publishing, but
all its proponents were using Apple
computers. You could also get Aldus
Pagemaker for both Apple and IBM
PCs, although PCs were disparaged
by the cognoscenti.
We disregarded all that; besides, we
could not afford high-priced Apple
Australia's electronics magazine
computers and Quark Express, or
rather, I refused to spend that much
money.
Eventually, we found a typesetter
in Dee Why who agreed to work with
Pagemaker files produced on (ahem,
gag, splutter) a PC clone. But it all
eventually worked!
Our starting hardware for this
comprised:
1. A PC-compatible computer with
an Intel 386 processor, 120MB
hard drive and 4MB RAM.
2. A 300DPI Postscript-compatible
laser printer (probably a Hewlett-
Packard).
3. A Radius 21-inch high-resolution
monochrome monitor.
4. A 14.4kb/s modem (the good old
dial-up days; a big jump from the
300 baud modem we had when
the magazine first started).
The software was:
1. Windows 3.1 (an unstable beast
that required frequent reboots).
2. Aldus Pagemaker 3 for page layouts.
3. CorelDraw (for special type
effects, to create fancy headings
and to produce front panels).
We used Pagemaker to make up the
pages with spaces left for the B&W
photos and diagrams (the latter were
still hand-drawn). Once the Pagemaker
layout was complete, it was printed
siliconchip.com.au
out and proofread. Pagemaker was
then used to produce Postscript files,
which were then sent via our modem
to the typesetting house in Dee Why
to produce a bromide of each page.
These page bromides, the photos
and the diagrams were couriered in
batches to the compositor for final
make-up. The photos and diagrams
were photographed in a darkroom to
produce correct-size images (halftones
in the case of the photos), and these
were then fed to a waxing machine
that applied a wax backing.
A compositor then trimmed the
edges of each image and carefully
stuck it in place on its designated page.
The assembled pages were then photostatted and couriered back for final
proofreading.
The whole procedure was still
labour-intensive, but the on-screen
layout process saved a considerable
amount of money. And there were
other big advantages:
1. We could make corrections or
additions on the spot after initial
proofreading.
2. We could run a spell check over
the made-up page before it went
to the compositor.
3. It was easy to use special symbols
like “W” and “µ” for the resistor
and capacitor values.
As far as I know, Silicon Chip was
one of the first magazines to use
desktop publishing on a PC clone. It
worked well, and it was a significant
achievement for our first year in our
first proper premises.
Temper tantrums
I should mention our adventures
with another printer used in our office.
This was a large tractor-feed dot-matrix
machine that could be used to produce several different fonts. We used
it for general correspondence, monthly
invoices, pay slips and to produce
the carrier sheets for the subscription
copies.
It was controlled via a small LCD
panel and was quite frustrating to use,
to the point where I sometimes felt like
picking it up and hurling it off the mezzanine floor of the premises. Suffice
to say that the cost of replacing that
expensive machine stayed my hand,
but only just. Quite a few years later,
I had similar frustrations with a much
cheaper and smaller dot matrix printer.
Remembering the utter frustrations
of those earlier times, temptation
siliconchip.com.au
These two shots show views of our lab set up which was quite spacious. By this
stage (mid 1990) we had proper workbenches and gas-lift chairs and quite an
array of test equipment, some of it secondhand.
ultimately got better of me, and I threw
it down the stairs at home – it smashed
into smithereens. Sweeping up all the
broken plastic cogs, bits and pieces in
the aftermath gave me much satisfaction, knowing that I wouldn’t have to
put up with it any longer. Yes, yes, I
know I shouldn’t have done it, mea
culpa, mea culpa etc etc.
Editor: later there was a similar scene on a smaller scale when I
received an extended call from a rude
person on my corded desk phone. The
phone somehow took to the air, flew
Australia's electronics magazine
across the room and came to an abrupt
halt in a shower of parts. I put those
parts back together, but the phone
never quite worked the same after that.
At least I didn’t have to deal with that
bloke any more!
That arrangement in the Warriewood industrial unit lasted slightly
less than 12 months because most of
the units in this complex of 36 were
unsold, and the developer ran into
problems with a Victorian bank (some
readers may remember the Victorian
banking crisis in 1991).
August 2022 41
attach a front panel to a finished project if it had been photographed without a front panel in place.
Call it skullduggery, but it made the
projects look far more professional
and also meant that the production
panels looked far superior to our previous versions.
CAD for PCB design
This shot shows the ground floor of our first commercial premises, showing
where Ann Morris used to sit, and where we processed subscriptions and
mail orders. Leo Simpson lurked in the corner, behind the filing cabinets. The
mezzanine floor above would have been the likely launching point for a large
printer which caused a huge amount of frustration.
The water board advised us that
the water would be cut off in a few
weeks because of unpaid rates. We
had to break the lease and get out.
Panic stations!
Then, in short order, I had the very
good fortune to lease a large office
which had been previously used as
part of the manufacturing plant for one
of Australia’s leading boat builders, at
Bassett Street, Mona Vale.
After our previous spartan lodgings,
this was very spacious and luxurious.
The original office fit-out was still in
place, with carpeted floors, glass partitioned offices, air-conditioning, a
tea room and an attached small warehouse. What bliss.
In fact, those premises were to set
the standard for all the premises we
leased or purchased in the future.
We were always able to make use of
an existing office fit-out with air conditioning and thereby save a heap of
money. I was always conscious of
keeping control of expenses.
enhance our photos by using various tools to adjust the sharpness,
brightness, contrast and shadows. It
also allowed us to quickly deep-etch
images (ie, remove the background
from around an object), a previously
labour-intensive task at the compositor. And it allowed us to produce drop
shadows for any deep-etched object.
Another advantage of Photoshop
was that we could directly import and
Another big step was to move to
on-screen design for PCBs. This was
done using Protel (from the company
now known as Altium), and we had
switched over to this method by June
1992. The parts overlay and wiring
diagrams were still done by hand,
however.
Every year or so, there would be a
new version of Protel with more features which we jumped on as soon as
they became available. Altium continues that process today and Silicon Chip still uses this world-class
software.
Next month
The story so far takes us up to the
end of 1992. We’ll follow up next
month with the remainder of the history of Silicon Chip, from 1993 to
the present. That article will include
details on the people involved and
the technological and methodological changes that improved the magazine production process over those
SC
30 years.
More on magazine production
We added an HP flat-bed scanner
to our desktop equipment in 1992,
shortly after moving to Bassett St,
Mona Vale. That enabled us to scan
and place the photos directly into our
Pagemaker layouts, again saving time
and money.
We also invested in Adobe Photoshop. This enabled us to greatly
42
Silicon Chip
Leo Simpson looks happy sitting in his office at the first rented premises for
Silicon Chip, at Warriewood, on Sydney’s Northern Beaches. Unfortunately, we
soon had to move from that building as the owner/developer of the complex ran
into financial difficulties.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres®
Turn it up
SAVE $40
199
SALE
$
Demo in
store!
C 5064
Opus One® Bluetooth Bookshelf System
get your
Everything you need to
August.
projects cranking this
Want top notch sound for your games, hi-fi listening or home theatre? These new
active bookshelf speakers need no amplifier, just plug them in & connect via
Bluetooth, digital S/PDIF or stereo RCA. Amazing sound for their price with a sleek
oak grain finish - looks great with grilles on or off! Size: 146 x 164 x 240mm.
NEW!
D 2213* 28cm
SAVE 24%
SAVE $46
30
119
$
$
D 2212* 16cm
S 9455A
SAVE 28%
25
A 2696A
389
$
Internet radio, digital radio & audio streaming in one.
Wi-Fi Internet Radio System with DAB+, FM & Bluetooth.
A stylish, easy to use receiver with access to over 26,000 global internet stations, plus DAB+ digital radio,
FM frequencies and bluetooth streaming from your devices. Digital S/PDIF and analogue RCA outputs
$
Includes
wireless remote.
HOT
PRICE!
CLEARANCE!
Attach a camera
anywhere!
Got a TikTok’er at home? Let them record
videos anywhere with these handy flexible
tripods for phones, GoPro cameras and
small digital cameras. Easily stands on
uneven surfaces and can be secured to a
pole or railing.
Wi-Fi Video Doorbell with Tuya smartphone
app control and 2 way audio. This stylish
doorbell connects to your wi-fi and notifies your
mobile phone when a person arrives at your
doorstep. Great for telling the postie where to
put packages. • Security camera mode
• Motion detect notification • Includes power
supply and indoor doorbell ringer unit.
X 3227*
SAVE $15
SAVE 24%
SAVE 60%
60
M 8880A
4 Way QC3.0 USB Charger
39
Transmits bluetooth audio from your phone (music,
routes phone calls etc) to your cars FM radio. Plus it’s
also a QC3.0 & USB C charger.
Fast Car Charger
Boost your TV
signal!
D 2038
Dynalink® BT5.0
Can Speaker
Pump up the tunes with this nifty little
speaker offering 3-4 hours listening
time with Bluetooth 5.0 quality and
range. Pairs to a second unit using
True Wireless Stereo for even more
sound! Water resistant (IP65 rated).
Simple to install
in-line booster for
delivering added
gain to your existing
antenna. Great for
fixing choppy reception
issues. USB powered.
M 8632A
34
$
Music sensor
can trigger
lights to the
beat!
or 2 for $60
.95
Take high quality
audio notes with ease!
With
laser
pointer!
SAVE 35%
Wi-Fi RGB Strip Lighting Kit
This kit includes 5m of RGB strip lighting, power
supply, controller unit and IR remote control
allowing you to create colourful lighting effects
around your home. Works with Alexa and
Google Assistant. 60 LEDs per metre.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only.
X 0604B
Bluetooth FM Audio Player
QuickCharge 3.0 means faster charging for
your devices. 4A max current. 110-240V
input. Includes mains lead.
NEW!
.95
30
$
20
$
Huge 48W PD output
from a tiny car charger!
QC3.0 plus USB type C
power delivery.
$
$
With
stylish
RGB light!
Answer the door
when you’re not home!
D 4238
22
$
Presentations made simple!
Handy air mouse for presentations. In-built
laser pointer. Plug & play, no drivers required
for Mac or Windows. Includes battery.
Record CD quality audio with
excellent audio pick up for taking
audio notes during lectures &
recording interviews. 32GB on
board memory with Micro SD
slot. USB rechargeable.
Great
SAVE $20
for uni
students!
$
79
X 0705A
Order online at altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends August 31st
NEW!
19.95
$
L 2047
Stay powered up, anywhere!
Power mains appliances from your car or auxiliary battery.
54.95
124
20%
OFF
THIS MONTH ONLY!
$
Pure Sine Wave
$
$
M 8060 300W
M 8050 150W
Modified Sine Wave
229
79
$
M 8051 300W
M 8062 600W
99
339
$
$
M 8054 600W
M 8064 1000W
209
499
$
$
M 8056 1000W
M 8065 1500W
959
$
BlackMax Inverter - Ultimate in portable power.
The affordable portable power solution for any vehicle.
M 8067 2500W
Housed in a rugged aluminium extrusion, this new range delivers robust
reliability and unwavering performance - even under severe operating conditions. For peace of
mind all models have been certified to Australian Standard AS/NZS 4763.2011. Ideal for tricky
loads, such as laptops, TVs & game consoles. Perfect for 4WDs, campers, caravans & trade vans.
299
$
M 8057 1500W
The same top notch quality and safety features as our popular Black Max
inverter series (left), with a modified sine wave design to bring 240V power to any vehicle at a
fantastic price. Models up to 600W have USB and auxiliary 3A 12V DC output. 240V outlet runs
most simple appliances such as power tools, pumps, lights, fans and heater elements.
All inverter models fully isolated for safety and certified to AS/NZS 4763.2011.
89.95
$
Up to 135aH
st
capacity. Ju
65mm thick!
Q 0594
NEW!
SAVE $260
1039
SAVE $300
Powerhouse® Portable Battery Box
1199
Fits a standard 90-120Ah automotive battery for powering
appliances at your camp site - a totally self contained power
unit! Fitted with 2.4A USB charger, dual Anderson sockets, volt
meter, car acc. socket & battery terminals, plus 2x50A fuses for
added safety.
$
SL4576W 100Ah
Powerhouse® LiFePO4
Slimline Lithium Batteries
SAVE $40
Fitted with
secure lid clips
& colourful LED
voltmeter
$
SL4580W 135AH
Ultra slim 65mm profile with full current
discharge capability & 5 year warranty.
Space at a premium in your camper, caravan or 4WD? These compact
batteries are perfect for remote power solutions without taking up
precious cargo space for your gear. Pre-fitted with Anderson input and
output connections and handy LCD battery capacity gauge.
100Ah: 600x275x65mm. 135Ah: 750x240x65mm.
N 2015 10A 150W
99
$
T 5098
Trailer Connector
SB50 Style & 7 Pin
Socket
A combined chassis
mount housing for 7
pin trailer socket and
50A anderson style
connector. Anderson
42.50
$
connector not included.
N 2016 20A 300W
High End MPPT Solar Charging For Less!
Compact weatherproof (IP67) solar chargers utilising MPPT for up to
20% additional charge energy than conventional regulators. Suitable for
12V lead acid battery systems. Host of protection features in-built.
3 Way Breaker &
Switch Panel
USB 18W PD Panel
Socket & Voltmeter
Includes QC3.0 3A
output, plus 18W USB
C PD. 29mm mounting
hole.
SAVE 16%
power applications!
Great for solar backup
A comprehensive power monitor panel for solar and remote
power systems. Huge selection of on screen power stats.
Supplied with a 200A shunt for easy connection.
Cut out size: 87 x 47mm.
P 7866
P 0696A
79
39
$
59.95
$
Q 0592
SAVE $10
Handy Digital Power & Solar Meter
$
.95
The Ultimate Battery Fuel Gauge.
Accurately measures battery voltage, current, power, real
capacity and remaining run time of your connected battery
(suitable for any type of chemistry and voltages between 8V to
120V). Includes 50A shunt with 2m cable. 1% accuracy.
Cut out dimensions: 53.5 x 37.5mm.
29
$
Easy Wire 50A
Anderson Style Plug
Simple screw connection no need for crimping lugs.
8AWG max cable size.
3 x 20A 12V DC rated
switches with red
illumination and
15A DC breakers. Size:
114W x 96H x 60Dmm.
SAVE 25%
44
$
S 2750
Anderson Style
Panel Socket
12.95
$
P 7869
Easy connection for
P 7810 solar panels and
14.95
$
Order online at altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends August 31st
auxiliary batteries.
Cutout: 40x21mm.
Upgrade your work bench.
SAVE 15%
29
$
T 4015A
Say
to
goodbyein!
eye stra
LED Magnifier
for micro tasks
Never lose a tiny screw again!
A 35x26cm heat resistant silicon work mat, plus
a 25x20cm magnetic mat to keep screws and
materials organised while you work.
SAVE $80
Super fast
desoldering for
quick repairs or
recycling parts
T 2052
375
$
Soldering & Vacuum Desoldering Station
Why pay $300 for a MaggyLamp?
The inspect-a-gadget illuminated
desk magnifier is an absolute bargain at under $70, we believe ours
is every bit as useful. An incredible
visual aid for detailed inspection
and work on fine items with full
clarity through the quality glass
lens. Tackle complex miniature
tasks with confidence!
X 4204
3+12 Dioptre
Save space on your bench with this top performing 60W soldering iron and
90W vacuum desoldering station. Removes a 16 pin through hole IC in 30
seconds! Sucks molten solder away from components & pads in no time and
is easily cleaned. 160° to 480°C adjustable. Includes 0.2mm soldering tip
and three desoldering tips.
T 1489
SAVE 12%
T 1489
40
$
T 1461
Ultimate Flexible Helping Hands
Upgrade to the ultimate in soldering helper hands.
Includes magnifier to assist with those fiddly jobs.
Arm length ≈30cm.
19.95
$
Precision Two Handle Knife Set
Includes aluminium handle with 13 blades to suit
different cutting jobs. Includes plastic carry case.
60
$
SAVE
$15
X 4205
5 Dioptre
65
$
Micron® 68W Compact
Soldering Station
This latest design benchtop soldering
iron offers convenience and plenty
of power for the enthusiast. Offers
precise dial temperature control with
temperature lock. In-built sleeper stand
shuts down the unit when not in use
saving on power costs. Includes a fine
1.2mm chisel tip, solder reel holder
and tip sponge.
NEW!
125
$
T 2040
SAVE $44
85
$
or 2 for $120
D 2323
Charges
a laptop, a
phone & tablet
at the same
time!
Bench Mount USB PD Charger
A 96W USB type C power delivery charger, plus dual
QC 3.0 USB charging in the one compact near flush
mount unit. Requires 60mmØ hole.
Includes power supply.
T 2306
Perfect for
heatshrink - shrinks
evenly without
burning. Shifts
paint, solvents from
surfaces, makes
plastics malleable,
etc. 450L/min
airflow.
With in-built AC mains
detection. Featuring
a striking easy to read
reverse backlit screen and
a massive 9999 count
readout. Auto ranging with
easy push
button operation. SAVE 15%
80
$
26.95
$
SAVE $10
49
$
SAVE 18%
T 2110
15
Quick notes while you work
Write a reminder, take a phone message or leave
a note for your family with our handy eWriter
LCD board. Ultra thin, portable design is also
great for kids to draw on. Size: 226x146mm.
SAVE 16%
22
$
ea
1000V Rated Electrical Tools
VDE 1000V rated electrical hand tools constructed
from quality drop forged steel with comfort grip
insulated handles.
Workshop
essential!
$
T 2237
T 2865A Side Cutter
T 2870A Long Nose Plier
T 2860A Bull Nose Plier
9999 Count
True RMS
Multimeter
Q 1090
1500W
Heat Gun
Premium Grade HSS-R
Drill Bit Set
19pcs between 1-10mm for plastic,
wood & metal. Metal storage case.
Great quality
for a bargain
price!
T 2748A
T 2351
22.95
$
5” Premium Side Cutters
Tough chrome vanadium blades stay sharp for
longer. Ideal for PCB assembly, cutting solid
core wiring etc.
19.95
$
6pc Soldering Helper Tools
Tools for reworking solder joints, cleaning pads and removing debris.
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
Secure your home & save.
SAVE $100
P 8149
399
HOT
PRICE!
SAVE 24%
$
2 For
30
$
S 9901J
IS PRICE!
20 SYSTEMS ONLY AT TH
TOP
DEAL!
SAVE $10
69
$
S 9017A
Automate lighting & appliances!
Switch any connected appliance on or off remotely from anywhere in the world. Set schedules,
monitor and control via the Tuya Android/iOS
app. Maximum 10A 2400W. Works with Google
Home and Alexa
Pan & Tilt Wi-Fi Camera
Makes a great baby or pet monitor, this
indoor camera features intelligent tracking of
moving objects within the frame. 2-way audio
with mic and speaker. 5m IR night time coverage. Requires 5V 1A USB power supply.
Affordable 5 Megapixel
CCTV Surveillance System.
Simple to install with instructions supplied. Cameras can be remote viewed on iOS/
Android. Each pack includes: • Hybrid digital video recorder (IP camera ready!) • Pro
grade 5MP (2K equivalent) resolution weatherproof cameras • 20m connection leads
• Power supply • HARD DRIVES TO SUIT: 1TB $98 (D 5514), 2TB $125 (D 5516).
Genlamp® PIR
Security Lights
SAVE $40
Motion activated for
instant light at night.
Fitted with 240V 3
pin mains plug. Fully
approved. Natural
white. Rust free
stainless steel brackets
and hardware. IP65
rated.
SAVE 24%
44
$
X 2340C 10W
SAVE 24%
60
$
X 2315C 20W
149
$
30
$
X 2312C 10W
45
$
X 2314C 20W
139
$
Covert Wi-Fi HD Camera Clock
1080p video
or 20MP
still shot
resolution.
SAVE 23%
77
$
X 2317C 50W
Covert CCTV Camera Video Recorder
Great for monitoring in remote locations, temporary CCTV
monitoring etc. Runs off batteries, so its quick & easy
to set up anywhere you need to keep an eye on things.
Weatherproof case with LCD screen. Requires 8xAA batteries
& DA0329 32GB SD card $12.50.
Great for added security
around the house, back
shed or garage. Fitted
with 240V 3 pin mains
plug. Fully approved.
Natural white. Rust free
stainless steel brackets
and hardware. IP65
rated.
SAVE 24%
SAVE $30
S 9446C
Genlamp® LED
Floodlights
SAVE 24%
No expensive
cloud service
required store footage
on site.
S 9850
Looks like an alarm clock but has a 1080p camera capable
of streaming direct to your iOS and Android device via Tuya
Smart Home app. Motion detect recording. USB or battery
powered (S 4736 x 2 $18.50ea). *Note: We encourage this item be
used responsibly for legitimate CCTV use.
S 5322
SAVE 28%
35
$
Window/Door
Open Alert
SAVE 23%
69
$
Alerts you when a door
or window opens with
an alarm or chime.
Adhesive backed,
installs in seconds!
SAVE 25%
15
$
Wireless Door/Entry Alert System
S 5327
A handy motion activated chime unit for shops to notify
staff when customers arrive. Also great for driveways.
120m range. Requires 3xAAA batteries & 3xC batteries.
X 2318C 50W
Our huge online clearance sale is on now. Click “Clearance Deals” <at> altronics.com.au
Western Australia
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Sale Ends August 31st 2022
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Joondalup: 2/182 Winton Rd
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
Victoria
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2166
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave
03 9549 2188
03 9549 2121
New South Wales
» Auburn: 15 Short St
02 8748 5388
Queensland
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
07 3441 2810
South Australia
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd
08 8164 3466
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2022. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0008
Find a local reseller at: altronics.com.au/storelocations/dealers/
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New N20K48 temperature and PID controller
NOVUS Automation have released
their new N20K48 controller family,
and it’s available from Ocean Controls.
Unlike other temperature and PID
controllers with fixed I/O, the N20K48
is based on a compact, powerful core
controller plus a growing family of
clickNGo micromodules that enables
it to expand its I/O and connectivity
to meet your requirements.
The base unit has the Process controller with both USB
and Bluetooth
communications,
a single relay,
pulse output and
a 48x48mm LCD
display.
The plug-in clickNGo modules
include:
• CG-3D0 – three digital outputs
• CG-1AO – one analog output
• CG-485 – RS485 modbus RTU
interface
• CG-WIFI – WiFi module
• CG-1R16 – one relay output, 16A
• CG-3DI – three digital inputs
• CG-2R5 – two relay outputs, 5A
The native Bluetooth interface offers
simple field diagnostic and commissioning through the QuickTune
Mobile app, reducing downtime,
while the USB interface provides a
batch configuration option, optimising
workbench series production.
The QuickTune Mobile app provides the user an intuitive mobile
platform for configuration management for all controllers and micromodules on the shop floor.
The N20K48 controller has an elegant and distinctive design, featuring a large, bright and clear display,
while coming in a compact enclosure,
making it suitable for installation in
restricted spaces.
Visit Ocean Control’s website at
www.oceancontrols.com.au for more
information.
Ocean Controls
44 Frankston Gardens Drive
Carrum Downs VIC 3201
Phone: 03 9708 2390
info<at>oceancontrols.com.au
https://oceancontrols.com.au/
2 Series Mixed Signal Oscilloscope from Tektronix
Meet Next Gen Tek. The 2 Series
mixed signal touchscreen oscilloscope (MSO) – Tektronix’s biggest
(actually smallest) benchtop innovation in years.
Weighing in at just under 2kg, the
2 Series MSO travels light so you can
take it from your benchtop to the field
and back again. It can even come with
an optional battery pack that will keep
you going for up to eight hours of
unplugged use.
The 2 Series MSO is a highly portable full-featured scope for all your
testing needs. With integrated software tools, and 1280 x 800 resolution,
10.1-inch touchscreen all in a compact package.
It has a bandwidth range of
70-500MHz, two or four analog channels and 2.5GS/s max sample rate
among many other features.
Find out more at www.tek.com/en/
products/oscilloscopes/nextgentek
Tektronix Inc.
1 Clementi Loop #06-02
Singapore 129808
Phone: 1800 709 465
www.tek.com
Qorvo QPF4532 integrated WiFi 6 module now at Mouser
Mouser Electronics is now shipping the QPF4532 WiFi 6 integrated
front end module (FEM) from Qorvo.
It is designed for the latest WiFi 6
(802.11ax) systems such as residential
gateways, wireless routers,
access points and Internet
of Things (IoT).
The QPF4532 integrates a 5GHz power
amplifier, single-pole,
two-throw switch and
bypassable low noise
amplifier into a single
compact form factor device.
siliconchip.com.au
The QPF4532’s performance is
focused on optimising the power
amplifier for a 3.3V supply voltage to
conserve power consumption, while
maintaining the highest linear output
power and leading-edge throughput.
The receive path design maximises
sensitivity with the noise figure performance as low as 2dB.
The QPF4532 features integrated
die-level filtering for second and third
harmonics as well as 2.4GHz rejection for dual-band, dual-concurrent
operation.
For application feedback, a DC
Australia's electronics magazine
power detector is integrated into the
halogen- and lead-free package to provide voltage that is proportional to the
output power from the transmit path.
An evaluation board is stocked by
Mouser for rapid prototyping. Visit
www.mouser.com/new/qorvo/qorvoqpf4532-wifi-6-front-end-module/ to
learn more about the QPF4532.
Mouser Electronics Inc.
1000 North Main St,
Mansfield, TX 76063 USA
Phone: (852) 3756 4700
www.mouser.com
August 2022 47
isoundBar
with built-in woofer
Many of us spend an enormous amount of time watching TV, movies and playing
video games. Even if you only use your TV occasionally, life’s too short to put up
with the lousy sound quality of typical TV speakers. Commercial soundbars cost
a bomb and often aren’t that much better. Why not build this awesome soundbar
and enjoy your favourite programs in high fidelity?
By Allan Linton-Smith
A
soundbar is a set of speakers in a
wide, slim package that’s ideal for
putting just under or in front of
your TV. There are two big problems
with these: the ones that are any good
are usually unjustifiably expensive
(sometimes more than the TV they’re
paired with!), and the requirement to
be slim usually limits the amount of
bass they can produce.
Cheap soundbars abound and are
best avoided; many of these have
cheap external subwoofers (if they
have one at all), which can be very
boomy and annoying. In some households, these end up being switched
off entirely due to ‘subwoofer fatigue’.
On the other end of the scale, decent
hifi soundbars from well-respected
audio manufacturers are now around
the $1000-2000 mark, which can be
hard to justify when 65-inch (165cm)
4K TVs start at around $700! Hence
this design – a DIY soundbar with
excellent frequency response, decent
bass and low distortion that won’t
break the bank.
The soundbar is punchy and will
suit many listeners, but if you want to
go all-out, we’ve designed a matching
sub that rounds out the sound with
plenty of bass. It’s a fairly cost-effective
design, so even with the sub included,
the whole thing will cost a fair bit less
than that cheapo 65-inch TV.
The total cost of all the drivers used
in the isoundBar is around $260, so
even when you add in the amplifier
module, timber etc, you will probably be able to build it for under $400.
You can buy a soundbar for that, but
we doubt it will sound anywhere near
as good.
Design
I spent considerable time designing this self-contained system with
an internal woofer in a small box that
is just 1240mm wide, 70mm tall and
200mm deep.
There were significant (and unexpected) challenges, not the least of
which is that the slim design restricts
us to forward-facing drivers no larger
than 55mm in diameter. Also, the
internal volume has to be shared by
the separate left and right channels
and the internal woofer.
The solution was to create three isobaric chambers (see side panel overleaf) using four 5cm (2in) drivers for
the left & right channels (two each) and
two 9cm (3.5in) drivers for the woofer,
mounted horizontally.
The use of isobaric chambers is critical because this halves the required
internal volumes for a good low-
frequency response. The double isobaric design enables good upper bass
from the small L & R inner enclosures,
leaving just enough space for an internal woofer, also in an isobaric configuration.
The final design added 2.5cm (1in)
Vifa tweeters to the 5cm and 9cm Vifa
drivers, giving outstanding performance! The isoundBar has spectacular highs from its small tweeters and
includes Bluetooth connectivity.
A critical aspect of the drivers chosen is that we have checked that they
are all available in reasonable quantities, and hopefully should remain
available for some time after this article is published.
The whole design is tri-amped, with
separate amplifiers for the left and
The isoundBar uses
four TC6FD00-04
drivers (left), two
TG9FD10-04 (centre)
and two BC25SC55-04
tweeters (right).
Not shown to scale
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the frequency response of the isoundBar is quite
smooth up to 20kHz (blue curve). It has a very acceptable
bass response, which is significantly enhanced with
the woofer (red curve) and even further by the optional
subwoofer (green). While it might look like the subwoofer
creates a bass peak, in practice it sounds good, with strong
bass that isn’t boomy or annoying.
right channels and the internal woofer.
In fact, there is a total of five separate
amplifiers: two for the left and right
main drivers, two for the left and right
tweeters and one for the woofer, each
with a maximum output 50W RMS
and each with its own volume control
for balancing.
To do this, I used a Yuanjing class-D
4.1 amplifier module, which I previously reviewed in the May 2019 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/11614). The
module has three Texas Instruments
TPA3116D2 high-efficiency class-D
audio amplifier ICs with two 50W
channels per IC.
If you refer to that article, you
will see that it dedicates one whole
TPA3116D2 for the subwoofer channel to theoretically deliver 100W RMS.
However, testing showed the actual
maximum output to be closer to 60W.
Nevertheless, we selected that module for its low cost and ease of use. It
provides plenty of power to handle
the vast dynamic range from modern
signal sources such as streamed movies, CDs, DVDs, Blu-rays etc, with sufficient headroom before clipping. The
sound quality is also pretty respectable for a low-cost class-D amplifier
module.
Many movie soundtracks feature
realistic whispers and then instantly
impose super-loud sounds from
bombs, jets and vehicles, so you
need a substantial dynamic range.
Any clipping in the amplifiers could
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: total harmonic distortion for the isoundBar is
generally less than 2% above 120Hz and well under 1%
across much of the critical midrange. This is excellent
when you consider that the amplifier’s distortion is much
higher than most Silicon Chip amplifiers. It’s less than 10%
down to 40Hz, which is exceptional for tiny 9cm (3.5-inch)
drivers!
quickly damage these little speakers,
especially the small tweeters. So you
need more power in reserve than you
might think.
These ICs also have short-circuit/
overload protection, over-voltage
and under-voltage protection and are
around 90% efficient. So they only
need a tiny heatsink each and run
from a 12-24V high-current plugpack,
meaning no mains wiring is required.
The tiny amount of heat generated
means that special cabinet ventilation
is unnecessary.
This module also has a built-in Bluetooth receiver which activates a relay
when pairing occurs. A signal can
also be fed in via the onboard 3.5mm
socket. The signal priority is set up to
select whichever input is active first.
If you require a bigger sound, we’ll
also describe an external subwoofer
output to interface with the subwoofer. As we said earlier, the sound
has plenty of punch without it, but the
subwoofer adds a whole new dimension and is required if you want an
authentic hifi experience, or are just
a bass fiend!
the 60-80Hz region, and adding the
external subwoofer extends it further,
to about 35Hz.
That might not ‘sound’ like the
external woofer would make a big
difference, but trust us, it does! The
overall sound quality goes from good
to great when you add the subwoofer.
Still, the internal woofer is pretty good
for watching ordinary TV programs.
When you want to listen to music or
watch a movie cinema-style, the extra
bass is really worthwhile.
Fig.2 shows the measured distortion
Performance
The frequency response of the system without the internal woofer and
that of the woofer on its own are shown
in Fig.1. Without the woofer, it has
a pretty flat response from around
120Hz to 20kHz. Adding the woofer
extends the bass response down to
Australia's electronics magazine
The optional sub adds plenty of bass
and only measures 45 × 30 × 15cm.
August 2022 49
What is an isobaric speaker?
Two identical drivers are used with the isobaric box speaker design, but only
one radiates sound. The other is coupled to the first one by a small sealed
enclosure where the pressure remains constant as the speakers move in the
same direction, by the same amount, at the same time – see Fig.3.
Harry Olson invented this configuration in the 1950s. It uses speaker drivers (usually bass units) mounted in a sealed enclosure and driven in parallel
or series to ensure they move in ‘lock step’.
This configuration lowers the effective Vas by
half. In other words, it effectively doubles the
speaker enclosure volume and extends the
bass frequency response beyond what would
be possible for otherwise identical speakers
in the same sized box.
Although the power handling capability
doubles, the efficiency and sound pressure
level do not increase. The main disadvantage
is the doubling of driver cost without a corresponding increase in sound output.
Fig.3: the isobaric arrangement has two drivers
connected in series, driven with the same signal.
at one watt. Importantly, it’s quite
low (below 1%) in most of the region
between 150Hz and 3.5kHz, where the
majority of the most critical sounds
like the human voice and many instruments lie. That results in a clear sound
with excellent dialog intelligibility.
Layout and calculations
Similar to what’s shown in Fig.3,
the woofers are set up in an isobaric
box in opposite positions. However,
the cones are wired to move in the
same direction. The sound output
from underneath the drivers travels
to the woofer port at the front, which
is designed so that only a 32mm hole
is required. There is no extended port
tube, simplifying construction.
This isoundBar uses Vifa/Peerless
drivers throughout (Vifa and Peerless
merged in 2000). The main left and
right speakers are 5.5cm TC6FD00-04
drivers, with two 9cm TG9FD10-04
drivers as the woofers. All are available in Australia via Wagner Electronics (www.wagneronline.com.au).
The majority of the sound from
the soundbar comes from the four
TC6FD00-04 drivers, two on each side.
They are wired in series because the
amplifier cannot handle the 2W load
they would present if wired in parallel.
These little speakers have a very
smooth frequency response in the
midrange, but lose a bit at the top end
frequency due to their isobaric positioning, which damps them somewhat. Hence, the inclusion of one
Vifa BC25SC55-04 25mm tweeter on
either side.
These tweeters are rated at 6W and
are driven by a separate amplifier
with its own volume control. They are
mounted on the ends of the soundbar
and are fed via 6.8μF capacitors. These
add some nice treble which tends to
bounce off the walls adjacent to your
All drivers must be sealed with a selfadhesive foam weather stripping.
TV room to create a spaced-out effect.
Their cut-off frequency (-3dB point)
is close to 4kHz due to the capacitor value.
The volume control for these tweeters offers very easy adjustment of the
amount of treble, which is especially
useful for those with some HF hearing loss. Their independent amplifier
also means that there is no interference with either the mid-range or the
bass speakers, significantly reducing
the overall distortion.
Because of their natural roll-off at
high frequencies, the main 5.5cm drivers do not need any choke, as would be
the case in a typical speaker arrangement. This reduces the overall cost of
the system.
The woofers are wired in series for
a total impedance of 8W and fed from
the subwoofer channel of the class-D
amplifier. The LEAP program predicts a -3dB point at 39Hz, although
We mounted the drivers using 3mm nuts and bolts, although wood screws would work too. All gaps must be sealed with
weather stripping or filled with silicone sealant. The woofer mounted to the mezzanine points downward while the one
mounted to the top panel folds over and nestles neatly beside it. Make sure the wiring to the subwoofers does not interfere
with the cones.
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siliconchip.com.au
our Audio Precision measurements
indicate a somewhat higher roll-off
at around 55Hz. Still, this is quite
impressive, considering the small
space allocated and the low sensitivity of these drivers at 84dB/W <at> 1m.
The woofers are rated at 10W, but
with the two in series, we can drive
them at up to 20W. The class-D amplifier subwoofer channel can deliver
more than 50W; so the speakers will
audibly distort well before the amplifier clips, so the voice coils should not
overheat even if they are over-driven
(within reason).
The design includes a switchable
output for driving an external passive
subwoofer, and it can drive just about
any speaker with an impedance of
4W or higher. The optional subwoofer
presented later works very well when
connected to this output.
Soundbar construction
The isoundBar is a fair bit more
challenging to build than, say, our
Concreto Loudpeaker System (June
2020; siliconchip.au/Article/14463),
although, to be fair, it doesn’t get much
simpler than the Concretos.
Bear in mind that we have to jam
everything into a relatively small
box, and the result has to offer quality performance from small speakers.
The more expensive hifi commercial
soundbars also use pretty complex
designs, which is part of the reason
they are so costly. But if you DIY, you
can eliminate a lot of that cost.
As long as you work steadily, you
will find that the construction is easier
than it might look from the diagrams.
In fact, the average DIYer should be
able to build it using minimal power
tools. The pieces of timber you need
to cut and drill are shown in Figs.4 &
5, while the way they go together is
shown in Fig.6.
Start by cutting the pine boards into
the required lengths, then cut the holes
for the speakers and the ports with
hole saws or a jigsaw. Next, assemble the outer frame by screwing and
gluing the four outer pieces together,
followed by the internal pieces. Drill
small pilot holes for the screws, so
they don’t split the timber.
Fig.4: here are the larger panels you
need to cut for the top, bottom, back
and front of the isoundBar. The top
and bottom are cut from 4mm ply,
while the front and back are 19 ×
64mm DAR pine.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 51
Fig.5: there are also 11 smaller panels to cut. The
mezzo baffle is cut from 3mm MDF, while the other
pieces are from 19 × 64mm or 12 × 40mm DAR pine.
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Those who are more advanced at
woodworking may prefer to use better
joining techniques such as dovetailing, but whatever method you choose,
make sure you keep the frame square.
You can do this by clamping, or you
can just nail a piece of scrap timber
diagonally to keep it square until the
glue dries.
Next, build the woofer box and
mount the timber strips flush with the
bottom using screws and glue. Glue the
mezzanine baffle to the side strips and
then mount one of the 9cm speakers
as shown. All drivers must be sealed
with self-adhesive foam weather stripping, as previously shown.
The next step is to mount the remaining drivers using timber screws into
pilot holes, or nuts and bolts through
3mm holes drilled right through. Make
sure you use the weather stripping
because the whole arrangement needs
to be airtight. Mount the tweeters in
the holes on each side of the frame,
then mount the second 9cm speaker
to the hole in the top panel.
Fill any gaps that air might be able
to pass through using silicone sealant.
For the amplifier panel, cut a piece
of blank copper laminate or unclad
FR4 and drill holes for the potentiometers, the power socket, the 3.5mm jack
socket, the external subwoofer terminals and the selector switch. Paint it
black, then screw and glue this panel
to the rectangular cut-out at the back
of the soundbar. Our prototype used
3mm nuts and bolts, although you
could use self-tapping wood screws.
Mount the class-D amplifier to the
panel and then mount all the other
ancillary sockets.
Solder/attach the speaker wires as
per the wiring diagram, Fig.7, and
mount the amplifier in the soundbar.
Once everything is in place, it is
time to test it. You can either connect
the 3.5mm input to an audio source
(eg, via a 3.5mm stereo jack plug to 2
x RCA lead) or just pair your smartphone, tablet or another device via
Bluetooth. The amplifier will simply
select the source you choose.
Run the unit at a low volume initially to avoid overloading the speakers before they are fully enclosed with
the top and bottom panels.
Ensure all the speakers are operating; dial in the tweeters slowly until
you achieve enough volume to verify
that they are working. Similarly, dial
in the woofers last to ensure there are
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: a plan view of the
isoundBar along with a
detailed view of a crosssection of the woofer
chamber.
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 53
no unwanted vibrations from their
mounts.
Once you are happy that all is good,
cut the acoustic wadding into rectangular pieces that fit into each section
and place them loosely inside. There
is not enough room in the small woofer
chamber, but fill the rest.
You can then mount the bottom
panel with screws or glue. We attached
the top and bottom panels to our prototype using screws with thin weather
stripping to seal it, so that we could
easily open it up again to make changes
during the development phase.
Once the bottom panel is in place,
you can seal the joins with a silicone
caulking compound. Also seal the
holes that wires pass through to ensure
everything is airtight.
Mounting the top panel can be a little tricky because the top woofer needs
extra wire length (slack), and this
needs to be carefully nestled inside
the soundbar so that nothing touches
the cones.
It is a good idea to locate the top
panel in position and hold it in place
with weights, then test it out with an
audio signal to ensure nothing interferes with the cones before permanently attaching it.
Now screw and glue the top panel in
place. Test everything again to ensure
the soundbar gives a clean sound;
then, you are ready to finish it off with
grille cloth.
We painted it black before covering it with speaker grille cloth for a
‘stealthy’ appearance, so you won’t
notice it sitting under the TV.
To do this, simply cut the grille cloth
to the right size, wrap the soundbar,
then glue it with a hot melt glue gun.
You are now ready to enjoy some
beautiful sound from your TV!
Subwoofer construction
As stated earlier, the isoundBar has
punchy bass by itself but lacks the
deep bass that makes sound super
realistic for both movies and music
listening. As this subwoofer doesn’t
cost the earth to build, we highly recommend it as an add-on.
Subwoofer design
This little sub is really easy to
build as a sealed enclosure and can
be screwed or glued from 18mm
melamine. Its slim design means it
can easily be hidden from view. The
class-D amplifier in the isoundBar can
put out more than 50W RMS, so it will
drive this mini-sub to generate pretty
generous amounts of bass.
The class-D amplifier (bottom right) is
mounted to the back panel after the woofers
are in place. Allow some slack in the
wiring for easy removal or replacement of
the drivers. Our prototype used felt weather
stripping to seal the top and bottom panels,
which were screwed on for easy access, but
you can glue them instead.
Fig.7: here’s how to wire up the various drivers
to the amplifier module. Don’t forget the
capacitors in series with the tweeters, or they
could easily be damaged.
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The selection of a driver for this subwoofer was inspired by the JBL Club
WS1000, a 25cm (10in) speaker which
has a really low resonance (26.62Hz)
combined with a low VAS of 40.37L.
This means you can achieve great bass
in a little sealed box of around 15L;
that’s tiny for a subwoofer that can
reproduce such low bass!
This driver cost us $148 (including
shipping) at the time of building and
comes with a full data sheet and brochure, plus a JBL sticker!
The 18mm HMR melamine we used
to build the cabinet was from an offcut we already had, the acoustic innerbond filling was also left over from
other speaker projects, and the wire
was also from the junk box, so it was
a budget project.
To make it look nice, we covered
it with a 2mm-thick black felt carpet
that’s explicitly sold for use with subwoofers, costing $19.99 for a 1m x 1m
square. So the total cost to build the
sub was just $168 in our case. Even
if you have to buy all the materials
new, you’re probably only looking at
around $200.
While the driver is powerful, it
is also very shallow at 80mm deep,
allowing for a very slim box design. An
earlier JBL W10GTi MkII 25cm woofer
we tried was 232mm deep, so JBL have
made their designs significantly more
compact over time!
We tried using the W10GTi MkII
as part of our Senator loudspeakers (May & June 2018; siliconchip.
au/Series/300) but found it to be too
expensive and heavy and not suitable
for a slim enclosure. The new WS1000
design is much lighter and thinner,
with an easier wiring system, yet it
performs almost as well!
This JBL driver was designed mainly
for use in cars, so it has a “selectable
smart impedance” (SSI) switch allowing it to present either a 2W or 4W
impedance. For the isoundBar, the
class-D amplifier is not suitable for
driving a 2W load, so the 4W option is
the one to use.
JBL recommends a 14.15L sealed
enclosure. They also have recommendations for larger ported enclosures,
but the smaller sealed box is much
easier to make and can be put together
quickly.
Subwoofer performance
Parts List – isoundBar
2 Vifa/Peerless TG9FD10-04 9cm/3.5-inch drivers [Wagner Electronics]
4 Vifa/Peerless TC6FD00-04 5.5cm/2-inch drivers [Wagner Electronics]
2 Vifa/Peerless BC25SC55-04 2.5cm/1-inch tweeters [Wagner Electronics]
1 100 × 45cm piece of acoustic wadding
[eg, www.ebay.com.au/itm/185046067357]
1 TPA3116D2-based class-D 4.1 amplifier module
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32911419084.html]
1 5m length of figure-8 medium-duty speaker cable
2 6.5-6.8μF 250V metallised polypropylene crossover capacitors
[Jaycar RY6956]
1 24V 5A power ‘brick’ with DC barrel plug
1 panel-mount barrel socket to suit the power supply
1 panel-mount speaker connector [Jaycar PS1082]
4 knobs (to suit amplifier module; most likely fluted types)
1 bottle of wood glue
1 tube of neutral-cure silicone sealant
Timber & hardware
3 1.24m length of 64 × 19mm DAR pine
1 1.24m length of 40 × 12mm DAR pine
1 2400 × 1200mm sheet of 19-20mm plywood
1 1240 × 900mm sheet of 4mm plywood
1 600 × 900mm sheet of 3mm MDF
1 5m roll of 9mm-thick, 9.5mm-wide grey closed-cell foam weather-seal
tape [eg, Bunnings 0077668]
50 8G × 15mm button-head wood screws (for mounting drivers) OR
50 M3 × 25mm panhead machine screws with flat washers and hex nuts
50 7G × 30mm or 8G x 30mm countersunk head wood screws (for joining
pieces)
20 small Nylon cable ties (P-clamps; optional)
4 M3 tapped Nylon standoffs & 6mm M3 machine screws (for mounting
amp module)
1 300 × 100mm sheet of clad or unclad FR4
1 1m x 1.5m piece of dark speaker grille cloth [Jaycar CF2752]
Parts for optional (but recommended) subwoofer
1 JBL Club WS1000 24cm/10-inch subwoofer driver [eBay]
1 100 × 45cm piece of acoustic wadding
[eg, www.ebay.com.au/itm/185046067357]
1 1200 × 596mm (or larger) sheet of 18mm-thick plywood, MDF or similar
1 pair of panel-mount speaker terminals (optional)
1 1m+ length of heavy-duty twin loudspeaker wire (to suit installation)
8 8G x 15mm button-head wood screws (for mounting the driver) OR
8 M3 × 25mm panhead machine screws with flat washers and hex nuts
20 7G x 30mm or 8G x 30mm countersunk head wood screws (for joining
pieces)
1 tube of neutral-cure silicone sealant
external
−
Sub
Sub O/P
12-24V DC
CTR+
+
internal
Master
Volume
Tweeters
Volume
Front
Volume
Sub
Volume
3.5mm
input
The control panel for the isoundBar. You might find it useful to make your own
label so others can easily see what each connection does.
The frequency response for our subwoofer is very smooth down to a very
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 55
Fig.8: the
subwoofer
frequency
response has
a modest
peak at
around 65Hz
and produces
usable sound
down to
about 30Hz.
It combines
nicely
with the
isoundBar’s
sound output
and gives it
more oomph!
Fig.9: the
subwoofer
distortion
plot. It might
seem quite
high, but
subwoofers
are notorious
for having
high
distortion
levels;
around 2%
in the middle
of its range
is actually
quite decent.
Fig.10:
despite being
nominally
a 4W
driver, the
subwoofer
impedance
doesn’t
dip below
5W, and its
resonant
peak is 25W
at around
46.5Hz.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
respectable 30Hz, with a peak around
60Hz, as shown in Fig.8. The upper
cut-off frequency can be as high as
300Hz, but the setting on our class-D
amplifier is fixed at 150Hz (-6dB).
That turns out to work quite well with
this sub.
As shown in Fig.9, distortion from
the subwoofer is below 5% from
around 35Hz to 120Hz. The higher
distortion below 35Hz is due to the
output level decreasing, while above
200Hz, it is due to the high moving mass of the driver. While 5%
might sound high, it is a pretty clean
response for a subwoofer, with low
harmonics that are troublesome with
many subwoofers.
The final impedance of the JBL
driver mounted in the little box
shows an impressive resonance peak
at 46.62Hz – see Fig.10. The speaker
was set to 4W, but the actual measurements are higher, with a minimum of
5.3W at 83.1Hz, because of the added
resistance of the speaker wire and the
connectors.
Construction
Since this is a sealed enclosure, it
is much easier to build than a ported
design which would have been three
times the volume as recommended
by JBL.
We used 18mm HMR melaminecoated particleboard, but any material
at least 18mm thick is suitable, including plywood, timber or MDF. Remember that the finished enclosure must
be airtight, so make sure you cut the
pieces for a tight fit and seal all joints
well with silicone sealant.
Start by cutting the pieces as shown
in Fig.11, then glue and screw the box
together as shown in Fig.12.
We fitted the front panel using foam
weather stripping and screws so that
we could open it up later if necessary.
Given the simplicity of the sub, you
could easily glue and screw it instead,
like the rest of the box.
Covering the sub
Depending on the type of material
you used to make the box, you can varnish it, paint it or cover it. We chose
the last option and used a 1m x 1m
piece of 2mm-thick black subwoofer
felt fabric, attached using hot melt
glue. You can use contact adhesive if
you prefer.
If you loosely wrap the bare speaker
box, sausage-roll style, with a 1m-long
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.11: the subwoofer is a simple box made from six pieces, with only two holes that need to be made. 240mm hole saws
are not that common, but you can trace the circle with a nail, pencil and string and then carefully cut it out with a jigsaw.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 57
The finished isoundBar (not to be confused with the bar it’s sitting on) is quite a large unit at over 1m long, so make sure
you’ve got enough room to actually fit it!
piece, it should overlap about 4cm at
the back and extending at least 16cm
past the top and bottom of the box
Before starting, read the following
instructions and ensure you understand them. The whole process has to
be done fast, before the hot-melt glue
sets. Ensure you use a decently-sized
hot melt glue gun and let it warm up
fully before starting to give you as
much time as possible.
Check that it overlaps sufficiently,
then use a hot melt gun to first glue
down just one edge, at the back (top
to bottom). Allow it to set, which will
take a few seconds, then unwrap it to
expose the bare box.
Glue around the circumference of
the speaker hole and quickly put a few
stripes down the front and sides, then
roll the carpet back around the wet
glue. Tension it slightly and press the
material around the front and sides
and over the speaker, then tension it
so that it overlaps at the back.
Apply glue to the back and fold the
carpet over, then press it down until
dry. If all has gone well, you should
be ready to affix the top and bottom.
Cut the material at the top in line
with the corners, then cut the side and
back flaps to allow about 3cm overlap,
but don’t cut the front flap yet. Glue
down the sides and back flaps, then
fold over the front flap, cut it to size
and glue it down.
Repeat this at the bottom, and the
entire box should be covered, including the speaker hole. Using a sharp
blade, cut out the speaker hole. Drill
or cut a hole at the back for the speaker
wire or terminals.
Mounting the driver
Start by checking that the driver is
set for 4W operation.
We soldered heavy gauge speaker
wire to the JBL driver terminals, fed
that through a 4mm hole at the back of
the box and stuffed a 40 × 30cm piece
of “innerbond” acoustic wadding
The amplifier module is mounted to the back panel opening using blank PCB material, including the 3.5mm panel-mount
line input jack. A selector switch for an optional external subwoofer and 12-24V barrel power socket is included. The banana
sockets are for the external subwoofer. Keep all wiring secured using ties and silicone sealant to prevent unwanted vibrations.
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Fig.12: the subwoofer box assembly is not difficult but make sure it’s properly sealed, and note that you’ll need more than
the handful of screws shown here.
loosely into the box. We then lowered
the driver into place, sealing around
the edges with an adhesive gasket,
and attached it using wood screws.
You could use speaker terminals,
but making the wire captive is easier
– there are terminals at the amplifier
anyway.
The only disadvantage of this
approach is figuring out how much
wire you need in advance. Either way,
ensure the wire exit hole/terminals
are sealed airtight. We filled the hole
with silicone sealant.
Remember to leave a bit of slack
in the wiring inside the box in case
you need to remove the driver later
for inspection, repair or replacement.
With the acoustic wadding sitting
loosely in place, screw the driver
firmly in place, and you are now ready
to test it and run it in.
Having already built and tested the
isoundBar, you just need to switch
it over to external subwoofer mode,
connect the subwoofer wires to the
appropriate terminals on the back and
adjust the subwoofer level to match
the rest of the system. Then you’re
ready to rock and rumble!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
We made our subwoofer out of some melamine-coated MDF kitchen cabinet cutouts. It doesn’t need to be pretty, just square, since the carpet covering hides the
material it’s made of. Note the acoustic wadding and slack wiring.
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 59
Review by Phil Prosser
DH30
MAX
Li-ion Battery Welder
It is a simple idea, and it should work well. How did it go so wrong?
I
was asked to review one of the
Li-ion battery based welders that
are cropping up on internet sites of
late.
Having just finished the Capacitor
Discharge Spot Welder (March & April
2022; siliconchip.com.au/Series/379),
my reaction was: why not? This might
be a cost-effective alternative. So I proceeded enthusiastically.
The prices of these welders seem to
reflect the capacity of the battery used,
which in practice consist of one or two
cells paralleled inside the welder. That
translates to costs broadly in the range
of $50-100.
As noted in the CD Welder article,
one challenge battery-based welders
face is getting enough energy into the
weld quickly enough. So to be fair in
this review, I chose a welder at the high
end, the DH30 MAX, which claimed to
have a 10.6Ah battery for about $100
plus shipping.
After a relatively long wait (a bit
over a month), it turned up, and I must
say it both looked and felt the part.
The case is 150 × 28 × 80mm and
has substantial heft. It is an aluminium
extrusion, and it is clearly packed full
of batteries and stuff.
Using it
Plugging the welding cables in was
a delight. I wish I knew where I could
buy these connectors as they are great
(shown below), and I would have been
tempted to try fitting some to our CD
Welder.
I was initially bemused at how they
were insulating that connector from
the front panel (it is an unclad PCB).
I will get into that more shortly. Also
in the pack was a length of 0.12mm
“nickel” strip and a USB charging
cable.
I had a prototype milliohm meter
sitting on my bench (to be described
in an upcoming issue), and I used it
to quickly determine that the leads
have a resistance of 1.5mW. This is
consistent with 300mm-long 10 gauge
(8mm2) leads. I noted that these leads
are inconveniently short, even on the
first weld. Checking the maths, though,
they need to be short for the welder
to work.
The user interface is colourful but
fiddly. It took me a little while to get
it to do what I wanted.
With the pack fully charged, I was
off to the workshop and ran a couple
of test welds on flat AA cells.
Three welds in, and everything went
pear-shaped. After the third weld,
“magic smoke” started erupting from
the welder case! With some concern
about the device catching fire, I moved
outside.
A “minor” setback
With a large coffee to calm my
nerves, I reassured the wife that the
house would clear of the acrid smoke.
This was not going to plan!
The DH30 MAX welder comes
with the batteries installed into an
aluminium enclosure. It has a rated
welding output of 4.2V at 650A. Note
that the charging port is USB Type-C.
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►
The DHT30 MAX welder uses a 0.91inch OLED screen.
I channelled the Serviceman and
took to the case with screwdrivers and
pliers. Having extricated the PCBs and
lithium-ion cells from the box without
shorting anything dangerous, the trail
of smoke and cinders was something
of a dead giveaway to the fault.
Ignoring the minor fact that it blew
up for the moment, I will provide
some comments on the construction
of the unit. The cells look the part for
10Ah, weigh enough and have very
wide tinned connections to the ‘power
board’. The actual part numbers have
all been wiped off, but without running a capacity test, I assume they are
up to the task.
The controller PCB has a microcontroller with the top ground off, USB
Type-A and Type-C connectors, the
front panel control switch and OLED
and two capacitive switches that use
springs from the PCB to the display
panel. The construction looks OK, if
not excellent. This unit can double as
a USB phone charger when not welding, which is handy.
The ‘power board’ connects to the
two Li-ion cells, the ‘control board’
via a header, the front panel and the
welding lead connectors. It has four
4N03LR8 power Mosfets rated at 30V,
240A.
They are quite appropriate for this
job, though I would have been tempted
to use more of them. The PCB layout
has footprints for six smaller devices;
I would rather see them all present,
given the currents involved.
There are a lot of vias on the power
PCB, and for the most part, both sides
of the board have large copper fills
carrying the current with vias connecting between them on the top and
bottom layers.
The left side of the PCB has VBAT
running up to the output connector.
The right-hand side of the PCB carries GND, the battery negative terminal. This connects to all the Mosfet
source pins, with the drain on the tabs
connected to the “Out-” connector on
the front panel.
This switching method is the same
concept used in my CD Welder, but on
a baby scale. Take note of those vias
running right down the right-hand side
of the PCB; they are connected to GND.
Repairs required
I found that the PCB trace for VBAT
had overheated and fused. The Mosfets
were OK, as was the controller. All in
all, it is a credible design except for
the catastrophically narrow length of
track on the left-hand side trying to
carry 600A or so.
After scraping the charred material and solder mask away, I soldered
three lengths of copper braid (solder
wick) over this section. Solder wick is
nice and flat and can carry an awful
lot of current.
While doing this, I also noticed that
the Mosfets were barely soldered to the
The welder ‘blew’ up on both sides of the PCB, marked with red arrows.
►
►
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August 2022 61
board. So I soldered down the floating pins while muttering many a salty
oath along the lines of “you were so
close to getting this right; what were
you thinking?”
With the sort of conviction that
you can only have when something is
about to go wrong, I started reassembling the unit. Halfway through the
reassembly, I had a minor conniption.
The only thing stopping a dead short
across those beefy batteries was the
solder resist on the PCB!
Remember those vias (shown
directly above)? They are actually
inside the slots in the extrusion! My
muttering turned to the question: “Are
you for real? This will burn my house
down!”
To fix this, I took my trusty Dremel
and ground back the VBAT fill up to
the solder braid I had added, giving
a gap of about 0.5mm between the
case extrusion and the VBAT trace. I
allowed the GND side to touch the case
since that would no longer be harmful.
some more measurements and got the
following readings:
• 2.5mW from the positive battery
tab to the tip of the positive probe
• 1.5mW from the drain of the Mosfets to the tip of the negative probe
• the Mosfet specification is 0.79mW
each with VGS = 4.5V, or about 0.2mW
for four in parallel
• the resistance from the negative
battery tab to the Mosfet sources is
about 1mW
This gives a total of 5.5mW or so,
resulting in 650A into a short circuit.
This jibes with the spec on the box.
For a 200ms pulse, this would be in
the region of 400J. The problem is
that little of that goes into the workpiece, as that is counted as 0W in this
calculation.
Basically, the workpiece needs to
have a resistance of at least 5.5mW
between the probe tips to get even half
of that energy into it, and ideally considerably more for it to take the bulk
of the energy.
During tests, the leads got quite
warm after half a dozen welds or so, as
did the tips. As you can see in the photos, while I made reasonable welds,
there was significant heating around
the weld spot.
Is it worth it?
I guess the main question is: can you
use it to make good welds? A decent
weld to an AA cell is shown opposite.
I did that in gear 13. I found that was
the minimum to get a reliable weld
that would not pull off easily.
But that put a lot of heat into the battery. I welded three times in succession on one battery and literally melted
the plastic insulation. So you need to
be very careful using this welder!
So, in summary, does it work? Yes,
Back to the review
With that done and everything buttoned back up, it was back to the task at
hand: reviewing this comedy of errors.
I took a more gingerly approach,
starting with a 3W resistor and testing
the welder in “gear 1” through “gear
20”. These equate to power levels,
which are implemented by variable
pulse widths of 26ms to 300ms (see
Scope 1).
Using levels up to about gear 8-10
gave unreliable welds with the strip
they provided. I achieved decent
welds in gears 11-13. The welds were
OK, but because of the 200ms weld
time, things got really hot making
them.
To check if this made sense, I did
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Scope 1: a scope grab of the output at the “gear 11” setting. I found this gave OK
welds; the pulse width is 182ms. There are a couple of short pulses at the start,
which are present on all settings.
Australia's electronics magazine
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this device will weld after significant
repairs.
Is it reliable? For welding, I would
give a qualified answer. It can weld,
but puts a lot of heat into your workpiece. So it depends on your application. I would be very cautious using it
to weld anything very sensitive, like
Li-ion cells.
Will it remain reliable? This device
is marginal. Other similar devices
could be better. The Mosfets are OK on
spec; however, the manufacturing had
several serious flaws. Also, an increase
of a milliohm or two in battery impedance would severely impact weld quality, and that could easily happen over
time or with use.
I would recommend the DH30 MAX
only to technically confident people
willing to check it thoroughly before
use, and only if you intend to undertake small/non-professional jobs.
There is a world of difference
between this and my CD Welder
design, in terms of weld repeatability
and heat in the workpiece. Granted,
there is a significant price difference.
I’d like to comment on how I think
that the design flaws in this unit came
about. My day job is in engineering in
Defence, where “engineering governance” is an integral part of life. It is
tedious, but it is there for good reasons!
This device has all the hallmarks of
a design that was originally very good,
relatively simple and fit for purpose
in its original embodiment. Looking
at the problems I found, my guess is:
• The packaging was changed and,
in this process, somebody neglected
to check the VBAT and GND trace
clearances to the case extrusion slots.
I imagine this was done by a different
person than the original designer, and
they didn’t even think to check.
• The PCB manufacturing was
cost-optimised, perhaps too much
so. Six devices were reduced to four.
Looking at the solder mask, it actually extends under the four Mosfet
source tabs! It is hard to see the original designer finding this acceptable,
but I doubt they reviewed this change.
• The PCB uses lightweight copper foil. It is much cheaper to use this
than heavier (eg, 2oz) copper – again, a
change that I suspect occurred in manufacturing without return to design
and qualification.
• Someone had reworked all the
Mosfets, but only fixed soldering on
two of the five pins. This procedure
would never get past a review or the
original designer; doing it right would
take a second or two extra! Also, the
need for rework is indicative of a
deeper manufacturing problem.
All these faults could be fixed at
marginal or nil cost. They might even
get away with the lightweight foil with
a better PCB layout.
As it stands, each of these faults
could lead to catastrophic failure.
Therefore, I recommend that you
avoid purchasing this particular unit
(and be wary of other similar units)
unless you will personally open it up
and check that it is safe to use before
powering it up.
I must also admit that I have a bit
of concern that one of these could go
up in smoke during transportation,
depending on how it is handled, given
the proximity of those ‘live’ vias to the
SC
metal case.
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Complete Kit for $35
Includes everything pictured (now
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Runs from a single lithium coin cell, ~five years of standby life
Can measure components in-circuit under some circumstances
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SC5934: $35 + postage
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August 2022 63
By Arijit Das
SPY-DER
A 3D-PRINTED DIY ROBOT
SPY-DER is a speech and web-controlled surveillance spider robot.
It walks like a spider and acts as a spy using its camera, hence the
name “SPY-DER”. The best aspect of it is that you can make it yourself
using some 3D-printed parts, a bunch of servos and some low-cost
off-the-shelf electronic modules!
Y
OU CAN CONTROL THIS ROBOT IN TWO WAYS — USING
VOICE COMMANDS OR ITS WEB-BASED CONTROL INTERFACE. For example, I have nicknamed mine “Bumblebee”. Whenever I call it by that name, it starts listening
to me, and it will then act on voice commands. I am using
two main technologies to enable this: hot-word or wakeword detection and speech recognition.
The speech recognition also involves intent detection,
so that I can give it the same command in different ways.
For example, if I say “wave your hands” or “say hello”,
either way, it will wave its legs.
For the web control part, one can simply open a particular URL in any browser and use it to control the SPY-DER.
The web-based interface contains all the control options
as buttons. You can open another URL to watch the live
video feed from this robot’s camera.
You can see a short demonstration video that shows what
SPY-DER can do at https://youtu.be/3edXTxIZ_2U
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Developing SPY-DER
Initially, I built a simple Bluetooth-controlled spider
robot using an Arduino Nano, but it could only be controlled using an Android or iOS app. Thus, I added speech
recognition, web control and surveillance features.
Implementing all these features using an Arduino was
impossible; I needed a small computer. That’s why I decided
to add the Raspberry Pi Zero. The whole system could have
been implemented using just the Raspberry Pi Zero, but
it would be too time-consuming to rewrite all the spider
movement control code.
So I decided to keep the Arduino and add the Raspberry
Pi and have them communicate over a serial link. The
Arduino controls all the spider’s movements while the
Raspberry Pi sends commands to the Arduino. This also
means that I don’t have to worry about the Raspberry Pi
being so busy doing speech recognition that it loses control of the limbs!
Australia's electronics magazine
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Fig.1: this diagram shows all the wiring
required for the SPY-DER robot. The
order in which the servos are connected
is important; see Fig.2, and note that the
wire colour coding can vary between
models. Also, be careful to check the
labelling on the other modules as they
might not precisely match what we’ve
shown.
All the Raspberry Pi code is written in Python. For the
web-based control part, I used the Flask framework and
built the web page using HTML, CSS and jQuery. For the
live video streaming, I used RPi-Cam-Web-Interface (see
https://elinux.org/RPi-Cam-Web-Interface) because it has
very low latency.
For speech recognition and hot word detection, I used
Picovoice (https://picovoice.ai/) and modified the code in
Python. I tried using local speech recognition, but as the
RAM and processing power of the Raspberry Pi Zero is very
limited, the accuracy was not that good, and the latency
was also very high.
The physical robots parts are based on an existing robot
that I found at thingiverse.com/thing:2901132 (but it has
since been removed).
I redesigned a few parts in TinkerCAD (www.tinkercad.
com/) and made all of the relevant parts available online at
thingiverse.com/thing:4815137 I 3D-printed all those parts
siliconchip.com.au
using an Ender 3 3D printer (see Photos 1 & 2).
Starting assembly
If you prefer to watch a video, I have made a video just
over one hour long going over the project in detail at https://
youtu.be/KkZiZggtvIU which is definitely worth watching
before you start assembly. Also see the parts list later in
the article for what you will need to build it.
I have created another video just under 30 minutes long
that concentrates on the steps for building SPY-DER, which
you can view at https://youtu.be/fnMmnd9k6q8
Step 1 – 3D printing the parts
First, if you haven’t already done so, print all the 3D
parts that make up the robot.
Step 2 – attach the servo motors
Next, you need to attach the twelve SG90 servo motors
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August 2022 65
#1
#2
using M2 screws, as shown in Photos 3 & 4. Four of the
12 servo motors connect to the body while the other eight
connect to the legs. Attach them with screws, but don’t
add the ‘horns’ yet.
Plastic gear servo motors are used for this project as the
robot is pretty light.
I have some details on attaching the servos, along with
the following Steps 3, 4, 5 & 6 in the video at https://youtu.
be/fnMmnd9k6q8
shield. While attaching the servo motors, make sure you
have attached them according to the numbering shown
in Figs.1 & 2 and with the black wires to the side marked
“G” (for ground).
The I/O shield also needs to be wired up to the power
supply which powers the servo motors and the Arduino.
Make sure the power switch is off when you connect it.
Photo 7 shows what the Nano looks like once placed
inside the robot’s body.
Step 3 – join the body parts
Step 6 – servo calibration
Then connect all the 3D-printed body parts through the
servo motors – see Fig.2. Don’t attach the horns just yet.
Step 4 – connect the battery and BMS
As the power requirements of the 12 servo motors are
pretty high, I used two 18650 Li-ion cells in series. The
Arduino, servo motors and Raspberry Pi all require a 5V
DC supply. An LM2596 buck converter is used to convert
the 7-8V output of the battery to a regulated 5V, which is
then fed to all the components. For safety, a battery management system or BMS is also used.
Fig.1 shows how these parts are connected, including
some other parts we’ll get to shortly.
Make sure that when you join these, it can still fit within
the robot’s body, as inserting it is the next step. Photo 5
shows how I wired these parts up (including the on/off toggle switch), while Photo 6 shows it installed in the robot
body. Note how the servo power/control leads have been
fed into the main cavity.
Now you need to upload the code to the Arduino Nano.
The code is available to download from https://github.com/
Arijit1080?tab=repositories (a copy of this is also available
from the Silicon Chip website).
The first step is to calibrate the robot legs. The program
to do this is in the “Legs” folder (named “legs.ino”).
Before calibrating the servo motors, check that their connections are correct and they are appropriately powered.
After running the legs.ino calibration sketch, screw the
horns that hold the legs to the body.
Step 7 – initial functional testing
First, plug the Arduino Nano into the socket on the
Prototype Shield – make sure it’s the right way around.
Next, plug all the servo motors into the headers on the I/O
To check the basic functionality of the robot, there is
another Sketch named “program1.ino” in the program1
folder of the GitHub repository. After uploading this, when
you power the robot up, it will automatically start testing
all the features in the following order:
• Stand up
• Move forward
• Move backwards
• Move left
• Move right
• Hand wave
• Dance
#5
#6
Step 5 – setting up the Arduino
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#3
#4
Any deviations from the above movements need to be
checked as they suggest an incorrect connection or component that is not working correctly etc. To know more about
this and the last step, you can watch my videos.
Arduino with the 3.3V I/Os on the Raspberry Pi. The Arduino connects to the 5V (“HV”) side of the level shifter while
the Pi goes to the 3.3V (“LV”) side.
I have a general video about using a level shifter like
this for serial communication between different boards at
https://youtu.be/e04br5J4UpQ
To connect a microphone to the Raspberry Pi Zero, there
are three options:
1) Connecting a USB microphone using an OTG cable
2) Connect a microphone with a 3.5mm jack plug using
a Raspberry Pi sound card and OTG cable
3) Using a Raspberry Pi audio hat.
I suggest you connect a USB microphone using an OTG
cable as I did. The Raspberry Pi supports most standard
USB microphones.
For the camera, use a standard Raspberry Pi camera
(www.raspberrypi.com/products/camera-module-v2/) and
plug it in as per the instructions. I have a video on using
the Raspberry Pi Camera with a Raspberry Pi Zero at https://
youtu.be/oo0A_yRrIxQ
Step 8 – uploading the final Arduino code
Now you can upload the final code to the Arduino.
This will work with the Raspberry Pi. The code is available from siliconchip.com.au/link/abd3 (and the Silicon
Chip website). Upload the “SPY-DER_Arduino.ino” file to
the Arduino.
This program takes commands from Raspberry Pi and
acts accordingly.
Step 9 – preparing the Raspberry Pi
Start by installing the latest version of the Raspbian operating system on the Raspberry Pi. You can use SSH or a direct
HDMI connection while working with the Raspberry Pi.
Step 10 – Raspberry Pi microphone & camera
The Raspberry Pi needs to have the mic, camera and logic
level shifter attached, as shown in Photo 8.
This logic level shifter is needed to interface the 5V
Step 11 – setting up the Raspberry Pi
The remaining setup steps are as follows:
Fig.2: match these servo
numbers up with the
connections shown in Fig.1.
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August 2022 67
#7
#8
1) Set up VNC Connect on the Raspberry Pi so that you
can remotely access and control it from your computer.
2) Switch on the camera in the settings or use raspi-config
from the command line. Check that the camera works;
RaspiStill can be used to test it.
3) Enable the microphone and then test recording from
the terminal. You might need to modify the “.asoundrc”
file to set up the mic.
4) Test serial communications between the Raspberry
Pi and Arduino.
5) Clone all the code from my GitHub repo (siliconchip.
com.au/link/abd3) onto the Raspberry Pi (say, into the
home folder).
6) Clone the Picovoice (https://picovoice.ai/) repository
from https://github.com/Picovoice/picovoice and then
launch the Picovoice program in my GitHub repository
(see the README file).
7) Install RPi-Cam-Interface for video streaming. You
can get it from https://elinux.org/RPi-Cam-Web-Interface
and see the video at https://youtu.be/yzpqEw1kEGo for
more details
8) Train the Rhino speech-to-intent model so that for a
single task, you can use different commands; Rhino is contained in the Picovoice repository.
To train the model, open a web browser and go to https://
console.picovoice.ai/rhn and input different kinds of commands and their intentions – see Screen 1. Depending
on the intentions you use here, you need to change the
“picovoice_demo_mic.py” file.
After writing down all the commands and intents, follow the prompts on the webpage to train the model by
using the microphone, then upload the trained model to
the Raspberry Pi.
9) For web control, you need to install the Flask
framework in Python; all the Python & HTML files are in
my repository.
Step 12 – finishing the build & controlling the robot
Fit everything inside the body (Photo 9) and glue the
microphone and camera into the holes provided in the lid
(Photo 10). Attach the lid, power it up and then use VNC to
connect to the Raspberry Pi wirelessly from your computer.
Photo 11 shows the completed robot with the lid attached.
To start the web control interface, open a console inside
the SPY-DER GitHub repository root folder and enter the
following commands:
cd web_control
python3 web_control.py
After running these commands, you can access the
web control interface from any browser using the URL
http://<raspberry_pi_ip_address>:5010 (insert the current
IP address of your Raspberry Pi) – see Screen 2. From here,
the robot can be controlled using all those buttons. You can
modify the control interface by changing the code in the
“web_control” folder.
Step 13 – Speech control
Go into the “picovoice” folder to run the speech control
system. There are three files there you will need. The first
one is the main code file named “picovoice_demo_mic.
py”. Modify this code according to your speech to text
model training.
The next file needed is the porcupine keyword file. This
is the keyword that you will use to call the robot. There
are many pre-trained files available in the Picovoice repository. You can choose any of the keywords to use as your
robot’s wake word.
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#9
#10
Finally, you need the speech-to-text model, which you
have already trained and downloaded. Then you can run
the code with these two files using the following commands:
cd picovoice
python3 demo/python/picovoice_demo_mic.py \
--keyword_path resources/porcupine/resources/
keyword_files/raspberry-pi/bumblebee_raspberrypi.ppn \
--context_path your_rhino_model
In this example command, I have used “bumblebee_raspberry-pi.ppn” as the keyword file, so “bumblebee” is the
wake word for my robot.
Step 14 – Video streaming
You can enable live video streaming either using voice
commands or the web control interface. After turning on
the live video surveillance, to access it, open the URL
http://<raspberry_pi_ip_address>:80 in a web browser.
Conclusion & future improvements
There is plenty of room for modifications to this project.
For example, if a local speech recognition system could
be designed that would perform well on a Raspberry Pi,
that would speed up its response to voice commands and
remove the need for an internet connection.
Snow-boy hot-word detector is an open-source hot-word
detector that works pretty well on the Raspberry Pi. It provides several image processing features like object detection, face recognition etc. It could potentially be added to
this project. Maybe I will upgrade it in the future!
SC
Parts List – SPY-DER Robot
3D printed robot parts
1 Arduino Nano microcontroller module
1 Raspberry Pi Zero W embedded computer
1 Raspberry Pi camera
1 5V to 3.3V logic-level shifter
[AliExpress siliconchip.au/link/abdk]
1 Nano 3.0 Prototype Shield
[AliExpress siliconchip.au/link/abdl]
12 SG90 mini servo motors
[AliExpress siliconchip.au/link/abdm]
1 LM2596-based buck converter module
[Silicon Chip Cat SC4916]
1 Lithium-ion 2S battery (nominally ~7.4V)
[eg, from Hobby King or two 18650 Li-ion cells in
series]
1 Li-ion 2S battery management system
1-2 bright LEDs (eg, 5mm blue types, for eyes)
1-2 current-limiting resistors for LEDs (eg, 220W 1/4W)
1 USB microphone
1 USB OTG Micro-B cable or adapter
1 SPST/SPDT switch (eg, toggle or slide) rated 5A DC
4 M2 x 50mm machine screws and nuts
1 pack of DuPont jumper wires (mostly short femalefemale types)
36 No.2 x 6mm self-tapping screws (may be included
with servos)
various lengths and colours of medium-duty hookup
wire
► Screen 1: the Picovoice Rhino
training console. Here you
can teach it how you say the
different words that you will
later use to control the robot.
You’ll need to sign up for
an account on the Picovoice
website to allow you to do this.
Screen 2: the SPY-DER web ►
control interface is quite
simple, and all the functions of
the buttons are pretty obvious.
This works in parallel with
voice control, assuming you
have voice control up and
running.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 69
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USB Cable Tester (Nov21)
UHF Repeater (May19), Six Input Audio Selector (Sep19)
Battery Charge Controller (Dec19 / Jun22)
Railway Semaphore (Apr22)
PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS
Wide-Range Ohmmeter (Aug22)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sep19)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite LCD BackPack V1-V3 (Feb16 / May17 / Aug19)
RCL Box (Jun20), Digital Lighting Controller Micromite Master (Nov20)
Advanced GPS Computer (Jun21), Touchscreen Digital Preamp (Sep21)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB M&K Adaptor (Feb19)
$20 MICROS
ATmega644PA-AU
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14), Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/SP
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller (Aug13)
CLASSiC DAC (Feb13)
$25 MICROS
$30 MICROS
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
WIDE-RANGE OHMMETER (CAT SC4663)
(AUG 22)
VGA PICOMITE KIT (CAT SC6417)
(JUL 22)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR KIT (CAT SC6406)
(JUL 22)
110dB RF ATTENUATOR SHORT-FORM KIT (CAT SC6420)
(JUL 22)
BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER KIT (CAT SC6292)
(JUN 22)
Partial Kit: Includes the PCB, programmed micro, all SMDs, most semiconductors,
PPS capacitors and calibration resistors
$75.00
- 16x2 alphanumeric LCD with blue backlighting (Cat 5759)
$10.00
Includes the PCB, programmed micro, OLED and all other on-board parts
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTH KIT (CAT SC6261)
Complete kit including all programmed PICs (no case or power supply)
(JUN 22)
SLOT MACHINE
(MAY 22)
500W AMPLIFIER HARD-TO-GET PARTS (CAT SC6019)
(APR 22)
IMPROVED SMD TEST TWEEZERS KIT (CAT SC5934)
(APR 22)
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK KIT (CAT SC6075)
(MAR 22)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER
(MAR 22)
- Micromite Plus BackPack kit without touchscreen (Cat SC6211)
- DFPlayer Mini module (Cat SC4789)
- Set of laser-cut 3mm acrylic pieces for front panel & coin slot (Cat SC6181)
(FEB 22)
$75.00
SMD TRAINER COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC5260)
(DEC 21)
$80.00
USB CABLE TESTER KIT (CAT SC5966)
(NOV 21)
$200.00
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3 KIT (CAT SC5082)
(AUG 19)
$45.00
$45.00
$5.00
$10.00
All the parts marked with a red dot in the parts list, including the 12 output transistors,
driver transistors, VAS transistors, input pair (2SA1312), BAV21 & UF4003 diodes,
TL431 ICs, 75pF capacitor, E96 series resistors and 10kW 1W resistor
$200.00
Complete kit with PCBs, all onboard parts, new microcontroller and gold-plated header
pins to use for the tips. Does not include a lithium coin cell
$35.00
Complete kit, includes all parts except the optional DS3231 IC
Parts for the ESM – includes one ESM PCB, IC8, Q3 & Q4 (IRFB7434G), D9 plus the SMD
capacitors and resistors (Cat SC6225) → 8-14 sets typically needed
$20.00ea
INTELLIGENT DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board, you just require a few
external parts such as a power supply, keyboard and monitor
$35.00
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/
$80.00
Parts for the Power Supply – includes the power supply PCB, IC1-3, D1, the 1W shunt and
sole SMD capacitor (Cat SC6224)
$25.00
Hard-to-get parts for the regulator module – all the ICs & regulators ◉ needed to build
one module, plus the schottky diode, 10μH inductor, 4700μF 50V capacitors, 1W shunts
and SMD capacitors – does not include PCB (Cat SC6096)
$125.00
◉ does not include the LM2575T as it comes with the CPU module parts
Hard-to-get parts for the CPU module – most of the required parts, including PIC32MZ,
EEPROM, LM2575T, LM317 & LD1117V regulators etc. You just need the PCB, headers,
a ferrite bead, trimpot and electrolytic capacitors (Cat SC6121)
$60.00
Includes PCB & all on-board components, except for a TQFP-64 footprint device
Short form kit with everything except case and AA cells
$20.00
$110.00
Includes PCB, programmed micros, 3.5in touchscreen LCD, UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other mandatory on-board parts
$75.00
Separate/Optional Components:
- 3.5-inch TFT LCD touchscreen (Cat SC5062)
$35.00
- DHT22 temp/humidity sensor (Cat SC4150)
$7.50
- BMP180 (Cat SC4343) OR BMP280 (Cat SC4595) temp/pressure sensor
$5.00
- BME280 temperature/pressure/humidity sensor (Cat SC4608)
$12.50
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Cat SC5103)
$7.50
- 23LC1024 1MB RAM (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5104)
$6.00
- AT25SF041 512KB flash (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5105)
$1.50
- 10µF 16V X7R through-hole capacitor (Cat SC5106)
$2.00
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB M&K Adapator, Feb19)
$2.00
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- 70W LED panel (cool white, SC6307 | warm white, SC6308)
- 0.96in SSD1306-based yellow/blue OLED (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC6421)
- Pulse-type rotary encoder (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC5601)
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
- DS3231MZ real-time clock SOIC-8 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
$19.50
$10.00
$3.00
$7.50
$10.00
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. Overseas? Place an order on our website for a quote.
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
↳ CASE PIECES (MATTE BLACK)
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL PCB
↳ MOSFET PCB (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER PCB
↳ HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
HIGH RESOLUTION AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
SUPER-9 FM RADIO PCB SET
↳ CASE PIECES & DIAL
TINY LED XMAS TREE (GREEN/RED/WHITE)
HIGH POWER LINEAR BENCH SUPPLY
↳ HEATSINK SPACER (BLACK)
DIGITAL PANEL METER / USB DISPLAY
↳ ACRYLIC BEZEL (BLACK)
UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
BOOKSHELF SPEAKER PASSIVE CROSSOVER
↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
ARDUINO DCC BASE STATION
NUTUBE VALVE PREAMPLIFIER
TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
DATE
JUN19
JUN19
JUL19
JUL19
JUL19
AUG19
AUG19
AUG19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
OCT19
OCT19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
DEC19
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
FEB20
FEB20
MAR20
MAR20
MAR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
MAY20
MAY20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
AUG20
NOV20
AUG20
AUG20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
OCT20
OCT20
OCT20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
DEC20
DEC20
DEC20
JAN21
JAN21
JAN21
PCB CODE
Price
01104191
$7.50
SC4987
$10.00
01106191
$5.00
05106191
$7.50
05106192
$10.00
07106191
$7.50
05107191
$5.00
16106191
$5.00
11109191
$7.50
11109192
$2.50
07108191
$5.00
01110191
$7.50
01110192
$5.00
16109191
$2.50
04108191
$10.00
04107191
$5.00
06109181-5 $25.00
SC5166
$25.00
16111191
$2.50
18111181
$10.00
SC5168
$5.00
18111182
$2.50
SC5167
$2.50
14107191
$10.00
01101201
$10.00
01101202
$7.50
09207181
$5.00
01112191
$10.00
06110191
$2.50
27111191
$5.00
01106192-6 $20.00
01102201
$7.50
21109181
$5.00
21109182
$5.00
01106193/5/6 $12.50
01104201
$7.50
01104202
$7.50
CSE200103 $7.50
06102201
$10.00
05105201
$5.00
04104201
$7.50
04104202
$7.50
01005201
$2.50
01005202
$5.00
07107201
$10.00
SC5500
$10.00
19104201
$5.00
SC5448
$7.50
15005201
$5.00
15005202
$5.00
01106201
$12.50
01106202
$7.50
18105201
$2.50
04106201
$5.00
04105201
$7.50
04105202
$5.00
08110201
$5.00
01110201
$2.50
01110202
$1.50
24106121
$5.00
16110202
$20.00
16110203
$20.00
16111191-9 $3.00
16109201
$12.50
16109202
$12.50
16110201
$5.00
16110204
$2.50
11111201
$7.50
11111202
$2.50
16110205
$5.00
CSE200902A $10.00
01109201
$5.00
16112201
$2.50
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS) + 2 JOINERS
↳ JOINER ONLY (1pc)
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
2-/3-WAY ACTIVE CROSSOVER
TELE-COM INTERCOM
SMD TEST TWEEZERS (3 PCB SET)
USB CABLE TESTER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (GREEN)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER TRANSLATOR
SMD TRAINER
8-LED METRONOME
10-LED METRONOME
REMOTE CONTROL RANGE EXTENDER UHF-TO-IR
↳ IR-TO-UHF
6-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
↳ 4-CHANNEL
FAN CONTROLLER & LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
SOLID STATE TESLA COIL (SET OF 2 PCBs)
REMOTE GATE CONTROLLER
DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY SET (2 REGULATORS)
↳ REGULATOR
↳ FRONT PANEL
↳ CPU
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
↳ ACRYLIC LCD BEZEL
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK
AMPLIFIER CLIPPING DETECTOR
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER POWER SUPPLY
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ ENERGY STORAGE MODULE (ESM) PCB
500W AMPLIFIER
MODEL RAILWAY SEMAPHORE CONTROL PCB
↳ SIGNAL FLAG (RED)
AM-FM DDS SIGNAL GENERATOR
SLOT MACHINE
HIGH-POWER BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER
ARDUINO PROGRAMMABLE LOAD
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTHESISER
REV. UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
VGA PICOMITE
SECURE REMOTE MAINS SWITCH RECEIVER
↳ TRANSMITTER (1.0MM THICKNESS)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR
110dB RF ATTENUATOR
DATE
FEB21
FEB21
FEB21
MAR21
MAR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
MAY21
MAY21
MAY21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUL21
JUL21
JUL21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
SEP21
SEP21
OCT21
OCT21
OCT21
NOV21
NOV21
NOV21
DEC21
DEC21
DEC21
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
APR22
APR22
APR22
MAY22
MAY22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
PCB CODE
11106201
23011201
18106201
14102211
24102211
10102211
01102211
01102212
23101211
23101212
18104211
18104212
10103211
05102211
24106211
24106212
08105211
CSE210301C
11006211
09108211
07108211
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
23101214
01103191
01103192
01109211
12110121
04106211/2
04108211
04108212
09109211
01111211
16110206
29106211
23111211
23111212
15109211
15109212
01101221
01101222
01102221
26112211/2
11009121
SC6204
18107211
18107212
01106193
01106196
SC6309
07101221
01112211
29103221
29103222
29103223
01107021
09103221
09103222
CSE211002
08105221
16103221
04105221
01106221
04107192
07107221
10109211
10109212
04107221
CSE211003
Price
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$35.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$1.00
$12.50
$2.50
$15.00
$30.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$20.00
$25.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$25.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
WIDE-RANGE OHMMETER
AUG22
04109221
$7.50
NEW PCBs
We also sell an A2 Reactance Wallchart, RTV&H DVD, Vintage Radio DVD plus various books at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Spy games and super-villain gadgets
Dave Thompson
It’s no secret that I like gadgets and I suspect many electronics enthusiasts
do too. In my case, the weirder the gadget, the better, and even more so if the
device is something I can make myself. However, some gadgets move beyond
weird and into worrying territory, and this time I had a chance to repair one.
As a kid, I was always fascinated with Maxwell Smart’s
shoe-phone. Not so much that it was a phone, but that it
was hidden in a shoe. Throughout the 80s and 90s, I used
a couple of space-age Ericofon Cobra phones with the dial
on the bottom as my home telephone as an homage to that
shoe phone. (I have three in my collection and they all
still work!)
The fascination extends to spy gadgets in the slightly less
silly spy movies: rotating number plates, oil slicks at the
push of a button, rockets mounted behind the headlights
and so on. Of course, all those things are faked, made for
the big (or small) screen, but they are no less cool, and they
sparked my lifelong interest in such things.
I get the same feeling when I see a wall safe concealed
behind a hinged picture frame, a secret door to a passage
behind the fireplace, or a bookcase operated by a hidden
lever.
A long time ago, I messed around making ‘bugs’, tiny
radio transmitters that broadcast to a transistor radio. Of
course, in the spy movies I grew up on, bugs are tiny little
things that can be stuck anywhere with the press of a finger and transmit several kilometres, even without a prominent antenna.
In reality, they need to be a little bigger and, even then,
can reach out only a few dozen meters, even if they are relatively sophisticated. Someone needed to be nearby with
a receiver to pick up the signal, which of course, was also
detectable by the bad/good guys with electronic bug sniffers. Spy games indeed!
Editor: for some fascinating related stories, see our articles on Cyber Espionage in the September & October 2019
issues at siliconchip.au/Series/337
As time went on, I made more advanced projects, though
I would still build any ‘bug’ that appeared in any of the
magazines of the era. Some worked OK, some very well,
but regardless of performance, I loved experimenting with
them. I never used them in any surveillance role, but they
gave me hours of fun. This is how I learned; by doing.
A little while ago, I wrote about an old-school night-vision
device a customer brought in (April 2022; siliconchip.au/
Article/15283). That device was featured in a late-1970s project magazine, and around the same time, another gadget was
advertised in those publications as a “pain field generator”.
At the time, I was very curious as to what this thing was
and how it worked but never looked into it any further. It
turned out that a friend of the guy with the night-vision
scope had purchased a short-form kit and plans for one
of these ‘generators’ years ago and, had tried to put it all
together, without much luck.
He contacted me after the night-vision thing worked out
and wondered if I would like to look into it for him, and
perhaps get it working. I sure would!
Pain in the wotsit
The plans he’d imported included a reproduction of
the original magazine project article featuring this device,
explaining how it worked and what to expect from it. It
turns out that this project (or one very similar) is also featured in one of those ‘Evil Genius’ project books that were
popular a few decades ago.
On the face of it, it seemed straightforward; it is essentially a high-frequency oscillator that could be manually
varied in frequency and modulation to produce some very
annoying high-level sounds that could potentially be damaging to humans and animals. I suppose this is the “pain”
they are alluding to in the blurb.
There are several iterations of the project, from a ‘pocket’
version up to one you could mount on a perimeter fence.
The main difference was the output power and the speaker
array used. The parts used in the project (or their modern
72
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Spy games and super-villain gadgets
An overloaded Onkyo receiver
Intermittent lights in a trailer tow bar
Fixing washing machine PCBs
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
equivalents) are still widely available, and I saw no reason not to have a go.
However, I was initially a bit cautious because I didn’t
know these guys or what they would use something like
this for, and I was unsure of the legalities of even owning/
building something like it.
A bit of research on the topic showed that something
very similar in theory – though much more powerful – is
already in-use at a military level by the USA and shipping
companies (against pirates, among other possible uses).
The Israeli Army developed another version for use in the
Middle East.
Called LRAD, or Long-Range Acoustical Device, they consist of a large, focused speaker array that can emit sounds
at very high levels to make the ‘listener’ very uncomfortable, theoretically without doing any permanent damage.
Another similar ‘civilian’ unit is marketed and used
worldwide to prevent groups of young people from congregating around shopping malls or other areas where loitering kids could potentially cause problems. Older people
cannot usually hear the high-frequency sound these devices
emit and are mostly unaffected, but it is apparently quite
uncomfortable to younger ears.
Of course, the kids soon learned that by wearing earpods
or headphones, they could easily defeat the system. Even
so, these devices are apparently still deployed in many
countries for this very purpose.
I suppose it would be like anything else – a stereo system
can be used as a sound weapon (ask annoyed neighbours!),
so it matters what something will ultimately be used for as
to whether it is deemed dangerous or not. I asked the customer, and he said that for him, it was only about curiosity and experimentation – much like my own motivations
for wanting to make one.
Perfidious perfboard
With that dealt with, I looked at what he’d done already.
And the answer was “not much”. The ‘kit’ came with some
of that older-style perfboard prevalent in the days before
DIY PCBs. The project required component leads to be put
through holes and then routed underneath and soldered
together to create pseudo ‘tracks’, creating a facsimile of a
hand-wired printed circuit board.
This construction method is fine when done correctly –
however, this one wasn’t; it was a bit of a mess. I thought
it best to salvage what components I could and replace
those I couldn’t.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 73
happened. Cranking the pots and toggling the sweep switch
did nothing.
No pain, no gain
For example, the project used a couple of 555 timer ICs,
and I couldn’t easily extract them from the rats’ nest. It
would take way more effort (and potentially do more damage) to try to remove them, so instead, I reached into my
parts box for a couple of new ones.
I recovered an IRF540 Mosfet, a custom-wound transformer/choke and a couple of other inductors; the rest I
just replaced with new components.
I used Veroboard for this build. I know it isn’t very popular among some out there, but for something like this, it
is (relatively) cheap and easy to work with. The voltages
and currents involved are well within the limitations of a
construction method like this.
I have used the excellent open-source VeeCAD software
(veecad.com) in the past for complex layouts on Veroboard,
but this would be a reasonably straightforward build, so I
just ‘winged it’. If push came to shove, I could easily redo
it using the CAD program.
Almost all the components mount on one board, with
two Motorola piezo tweeters mounted externally in a
suitable enclosure. Those tweeters have off-board inductors mounted directly on their terminals. Two pots are
mounted into whatever case is used and these, along
with a modulation setting and a power switch, are the
only controls.
The first 555 in the circuit is configured as a free-running
oscillator with variable frequency control. In contrast, the
second 555 is configured to produce a sweep voltage that
modulates the output of the first oscillator. This sweep is
controlled by the second pot and can be switched in and out.
The output is fed to a Mosfet and then on to the LC network of the tweeter array. The whole thing actually reminds
me of the Barking Dog Blaster project from the September
2012 issue of Silicon Chip (siliconchip.au/Article/529); that
is far more advanced, but the output section is very similar.
I also made one of those ‘blasters’ back in the day and,
with it, successfully ‘trained’ a dog a few doors down. It
learned that if it barks constantly, some uncomfortable
sounds would come its way!
I assembled the project and fired it up on the bench. I
powered it using a benchtop power supply (it runs from
9-12V DC) and flicked the power switch on. Nothing
74
Silicon Chip
Now, it could be that I am so deaf after years of racing
model aircraft and playing in bands that I just couldn’t
hear it. Still, as I also didn’t experience any of the disorientation, dizziness or headaches they claimed in the
promotional material, I was pretty sure it wasn’t working. Time to dig a bit deeper.
The first thing I did was check my layout and make sure
I’d cut all the tracks that needed cutting, ensuring I hadn’t
cut any that didn’t! Tracing through the circuit diagram and
comparing it to my layout, it all looked fine to me.
The next easiest thing to check was the Mosfet. The
IRF530/IRF540 used in the project needs a heatsink fitted, but even though I hadn’t added one yet, the component wasn’t getting warm. I didn’t bother checking it; I
have many types with similar specs in my parts bins that
would work in this circuit (N-Channel, 100V 30A 100W in
TO-220). I found a suitable alternative and soldered it in.
The only other thing was the choke, which the customer wound himself. I know from my own experience
of winding transformers and inductors that they can be
tricky things to get right. Since the bobbin and E-cores
the guy used came as part of the kit, I knew they were at
least the correct types.
As it has only 50 turns of “#24 magnet wire” on the
bobbin (24 gauge, or 0.51mm diameter enamelled copper wire), it was easy enough to strip it off and rewind it
myself using nice new wire. Fortunately, using one of the
winding jigs I’ve made up over the years made this a simple, though laborious, task.
One anomaly I did spot redoing this choke was that
the original plans called for three six-thou (0.006-inch or
0.15mm) shims to be placed between the two E cores. No
such shims fell out when I pulled the cores apart, so I created some from plastic and tacked them to the prongs of
one of the cores with superglue before putting it together.
According to the component description, it should measure 1.5mH (millihenries), and my Peak LCR meter tested
it as 1.71mH, which was close enough for me. After taping
everything up, I scraped the enamel from the two flying
leads and soldered it back into the board.
After another quick check-over, I powered it on once
again. This time I could hear noise from the tweeters. It
almost sounded like white or pink noise until I started
messing around with the frequency and modulation controls; then, all hell broke loose!
This thing was loud!
I powered it off, closed the workshop doors and put a
pair of earmuffs on. I also buried the tweeters under a couple of folded-up drop-cloths.
I tried it again and ran it at a reasonable level, noting the
current draw and onboard temperatures.
It was almost unbearable at the audible (for me) end
of the range. At the upper end, all I could hear was that
slight hiss, but I could feel a kind of pressure in my skull,
a very odd and uncomfortable sensation. This sound pressure level is still likely to cause hearing damage if I was
exposed to it for long enough, even though I couldn’t hear
the actual output.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The Mosfet was now starting to get warm, and as I
knew the unit was going to work, I powered it off and
set about prepping to mount it in a case of some sort.
As I was fixing a heatsink to the Mosfet, there was
a knock on the workshop door; it was our nearest
neighbour wondering if our alarm was going crazy. I
apologised and assured him everything was fine and that
it was just a project I was working on. I also apologised in
advance, explaining I would have to test this thing again
once I’d built it into an enclosure.
I told him I would try to keep any noise to a minimum
(if that was really possible)!
I found a plastic Jiffy box that would accommodate the
circuit board, though it would require the usual drilling
and chopping around to fit all the stuff into it, and I’d still
have to find some way to mount the tweeters.
Looking around my workshop, my eye settled on an old
set of computer speakers under the bench. These were reasonably large, with timber backs and sides and a moulded
plastic front. I reckoned the whole shebang would fit into
one of them, and the pots and switches could poke out of
the back side – this way, they could be manipulated with
the speakers pointing the other way!
There was plenty of room, and all I’d need to do was
remove the plastic front (held on by four screws) and the
old drivers with it, and replace it with one made from Thinline MDF. The tweeter holes were easy enough to mark out
and cut in the timber, and with a quick sand and a spray
with matte black paint, it looked like a bought one.
I used the original mounting holes to fix the tweeter array
to the rest of the cabinet.
The project was designed to be portable and run on
batteries; the customer was not keen on this and asked if
it could be mains-powered; he’d only be playing with it
around his home anyway. I dug out a 12V 1A ‘wall wart’
type power supply from my bins and simply added a socket
to the back of the unit to match the plug on the supply.
That should be ample.
The finished device looked pretty good. I once again
packed bunched-up material in front of the tweeters, put
on earmuffs and switched it on. And again, I was greeted
with a lot of noise, and after playing around with the
controls found I could get some hugely annoying sounds
out of it.
I could see it would be very disorientating if someone
were suddenly exposed to it. With earmuffs off, it was literally unbearable to be around, with even my teeth feeling as if they were vibrating when the sweep was set just
right. Nasty!
The guy was very happy with it and looked forward to
his ‘experiments’. I don’t think his neighbours will be that
happy, though!
I almost feel sorry for the real-life pirates at the receiving
end of the ‘big daddy’ LRAD devices. Almost. Those guys
are not quite as affable as Jack Sparrow, and the AK-47s
they carry are a bit more menacing than a single-shot flintlock pistol...
An overloaded Onkyo receiver
R. S., of Fig Tree Pocket, Qld repairs a wide variety of
devices. This time it’s an old Onkyo TX-SR506 7.1 AV
Receiver which would have cost a pretty penny new.
Here’s what he found...
The Onkyo receiver would not switch on, indicating an overload. It has seven amplifiers, and one of
them had shorted output transistors. Q6053 and Q6063
(visible in this section of the circuit diagram overleaf) had
failed short-circuit.
Replacing the output transistors with new ones, protected by 100W 5W resistors in the collector circuits (to
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 75
NAAF-941
U01 AMPLIFIER PC BOARD
R6093
0.22
(1/4W)
Q6013
-0.6V
P6083
ID+
ID-
R6103
0.22(3W)
Q6063
LIST
R6173
VPRO
47K R6183
Q6043
2SA1930
-1.1V
33K
R6163
SPSL
D6013 220K
C6043 +47/50
IDLING
CHECK
Q6073
2SC2240
C6053
103J
R6143
22K
VOLH
D6003 47K
D6003, 6013 : KDS4148U
R5193
10 (1/4W)
-52.5V
A close-up of the power amplifier section of the Onkyo
TX-SR506
receiver
circuit.
Q6004, 6014
: 2SC1740S-S
R5184
SR
IPRO
Q6053
LIST
R6193
Q6033
2SC5171
R6083
0.22
(1/4W)
Q6003
+
C5053
47/50
R6043
2K
-0.4V
3.3K
22K
R5133
C5093
101K
Q5043
2SC2229-Y
R5173
LIST
+52.5V
R6153
12K
470
-0.3V
+0.6V
R6073
LIST
R5203
+1.0V
3.9K 5.6K
R6013 R6003 R6033
Q5033
2SA949Y
R5163
LIST
2.2
(1/4W)
IDLING
ADJ.
C5113
+
22/100
Q5053
LIST
R5063
R5073 1.2K
100K
C5023
+
10/50
R5103
D5003
MTZJ5.6B
-51.5V
R5233
120K
R6023
+1.1V
R5033
120K
C5083
040D
C5103
+
22/100
Q5013
R5053
4.7K
-46.5V
10 (1/4W)
C5043
+
220/25
-0.65V
470
56K
330
NC
R5083
R5043
0V
2.2K
R5013
R5023
221K
C5003
1K
R5113
Q5003
Q5003, 5013 : 2SC2240
R5003 C5013
47/50
1K
+
+50.5V
100K
R5093
Surround Left ch
+51.5V
+52.5V
R6026
0
+1.1V
R6164
33K
R6165
33K
D6015 220K
R6195
Q6005
+
C5055
47/50
Q6015
siliconchip.com.au
Q6006, 6016 : 2SC1740S-S
36
Y
R5166
LIST
1K
10 (1/4W)
D6014 220K
C6054
103J
C6055
103J
R6194
R6154
12K
C6044 +47/50
C6045 +47/50
R6155
12K
R6074
LIST
Q6014
R6075
LIST
Q6004
+
C5054
47/50
470
3.9K 5.6K
3.3K
470
22K
22K
R6015 R6005 R6035
R6055
C5095
101K
Q5045
2SC2229-Y
R5175
LIST
3.9K 5.6K
R5204
R5134
22K
22K
R6054
R5205
R5135
C5094
101K
C5085
040D
Q5035
2SA949Y
R5165
LIST
R5174
LIST
Q5044
2SC2229-Y
C5114
+
22/100
470
C5105
+
22/100
C5045
+
220/25
C5115
+
22/100
470
3.3K
R6014 R6004 R6034
Q5034
2SA949Y
R5164
LIST
C5044
+
220/25
Q5054
LIST
Q5015
R5186
+51.5V
R5116
Sorround Back
NC
R5085
R5065
R5075 1.2K
Q5055
LIST
56K
2.2K
NC
R5084
R5064
R5074 1.2K
R5115
R5015
R5045
Q5005
100K
R5095
1K
100K
C5024
+
10/50
R5104
D5004
MTZJ5.6B
D5005
MTZJ5.6B
C5025
+
10/50
R5105
100K
Australia's electronics magazine
Silicon Chip
SBR
C5084
040D
Q5014
Q5004
R5014
56K
2.2K
R5044
C5004
221K
SBL
76
C5104
+
22/100
1K
100K
R5094
R5114
R6024
(1/4W)
the supplies), did not work. The output of the 10
amplifier
cosmetic
panelling
of the boot. This picks up the various
2.2 (1/4W)
Q6034
+1.1V
Sorround
Right
ch
2SC5171
went to the positive rail immediately. The driver transis- signals (brakes, turn
indicators, taillights and soIPRO
on) and
R6084
Q6054
tors, Q6033 and Q6043, were also +50.5V
shorted, as was the Vbe drives
the trailer lights
putting any load on the
0.22without
+1.0V
LIST
(1/4W)
multiplier Q6013, and 100W resistor R6073 (between the car’s internal
electronics. Otherwise, the
trailer connec+0.6V
Q6074
R6144
2SC2240
22K
driver
emitters)
was
burned
and
open-circuit.
I
replaced
tion
could
interfere
with,
say,
flasher
timing
or blown
Q5004, 5014 : 2SC2240
all of these.
globe
detectors.
R5034
IDLING
C5014
R5004PNP
The
transistorR5024
Q5033 controlling the driver120K
transis- -0.3VI took my car to the
trailer dealer and tow bar installaCHECK
47/50
1K
0V
SPSR
+
tors seemed OK, but 330
I have had trouble before with tran- tion experts, which involved
a round trip of about
200km.
P6084
R6104
-0.65V
R5234
sistors in this part of the circuit, as they can be leaky.
So After spending a day wandering
around shopping centres,
0.22(3W)
ID+
120K
R5054
IDI replaced it as well.
I returned to be shown
everything working correctly.
4.7K
IDLING
This time the amplifier worked, and the output centred
So I drove the hundred or so kilometres home and
ADJ.
R6094
close to 0V. Maybe what happened was that Q5033 leaked R6044
thought, this is pretty0.22
good; I’ll just have a look at the
(1/4W)
Q6064
2K
-0.6V
enough current to destroy
Q6013,
then
the
voltage
between
lights
before
putting
the
trailerLIST
away. Oh, dear! Some of
-46.5V
-0.4V
R6174
the bases of the driver transistors rose high enough to the lights didn’t work or were intermittent.
A phone
call
VPRO
47K the
destroy them, and the output transistors as well.
to the dealer later, we decided that
job had VOLH
to go back
R6184
The circuit is unusual as it has two Vbe multipliers, with to be fixed.
D6004 47K
Q6044
-1.1V
Q6013 in contact with driver Q6063 and Q6003 in contact
After a fair bit2SA1930
of fiddling with multimeters and test
D6004,
: KDS4148U
with the output transistor heatsink. I have not seen
lamps, the mechanic decided that
the 6014
electronic
control
R5194this
10 (1/4W)
-52.5V
-51.5V
before; perhaps it offers better quiescent current stability. unit must have a faulty ground (connection to the chasI recently discovered that the quiescent current set- sis). Rather than pull the boot lining out again, he decided
ting trimmer pot R6043
pin goes
run
a separate wire from the+52.5V
trailer plug to the vehicle
Q6005,to
6015
: 2SC1740S-S
+51.5V was faulty. The wiper R5185
open-circuit as the control is adjusted. This would
stop chassis. Lo and behold, everything worked again. Problem
10 (1/4W)
R6025
Q6035
+1.1V
Q6013 from working correctly and possibly destroy the
solved. Oh yeah!2SC5171
IPRO
Sorround
Back
2.2
R6085trip home, I decided to check the
output and driver transistors. This +50.5V
small, low-cost part has
After
the
100km
return
(1/4W)
Q6055
+1.0V
Left ch
0.22
(1/4W) why; ILIST
caused a lot of trouble.
lights again. I don’t know
guess IQ6075
didn’t have much
+0.6V
R6145
2SC2240
confidence in the system. Of course,
it
isn’t necessary to
22K
Intermittent
lights in trailer tow bar
Q5005, 5015 : 2SC2240
tell you what I found, is it?
R5035
IDLING
R.
G. B.,
of Ararat, Vic had that frustrating experience
that I had to fix it myself. Like the
120K
R5005
C5015
-0.3VThat’s when I decided
CHECK
47/50
R5025
1K
0V
of taking +something to the so-called experts,
and it still Serviceman, I found that the quality of the wiringSPSBL
was atroP6085
R5235
-0.65V you need to take
R6105
comes back broken. 330
Sometimes
these
cious.
I
have
a
license
to
test
and
tag,
so
I
did
have
some
120K
ID+
0.22(3W)
R5055
things into your own hands,
and
doing
so
saved
him
quite
idea
of
what
I
was
dealing
with.
It
was
very
difficult
to
get
ID4.7K
a bit of hassle...
at anything to check if the various circuits were intact, but
IDLING
R6095that all was well with the wiring.
I just finished reading the December 2021 Serviceman’s ADJ.
eventually, I determined
0.22
R6045
(1/4W)
story about his problems with trailer wiring (siliconchip. 2K The lights were sealed LEDs,Q6065
so that had to be taken on
LIST
-0.6V
-46.5V
au/Article/15141). Apparently,
the demon affecting trailer -0.4V
faith; they worked before, and R6175
it was unlikely they had
VPRO
wiring has international relatives. The Serviceman could suddenly failed.
47K R6185
VOLH
have been talking about the wiring on a new trailer I bought
So, I phoned the dealer again and47K
told them there was
D6005
Q6045
recently.
still a problem. For
some reason, I was now talking to an
2SA1930
-1.1V
When a tow bar is fitted to a modern vehicle, some older man whom I doubted was D6005,
a qualified
electrician or
6015 : KDS4148U
R5195
sort of electronic device
a mechanic. There was a bit of
silence on the other end,
10 (1/4W)the
-51.5V is installed, hidden behind
-52.5V
C5005
221K
P6902A
Q6003, 6013 : 2SC1740S-S
R5183
+51.5V
R6053
SL
WHITE
22K
902B
2.2
+52.5V
Q6036
2SC5171
IPRO
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As the PCB had been significantly damaged along with the relay, the new relay had to be connected point-to-point using
solder on the underside of the board, with the top of the board coated with epoxy resin.
then he came back on and said check the plug. By now, I
was nearly at the point of rudeness, but fortunately, I only
thought to myself, “of course I checked the wiring to the
plug, you fool”.
After mildly telling him I had done so, he said, “No,
check the plug itself”. When I looked at this device from a
mechanical viewpoint, it consisted of several brass holes
into which brass pins were inserted. The pins were slit
lengthwise, allowing them to make a springy contact with
the holes. Inserting a screwdriver into each pin and spreading the contacts slightly fixed the problem.
I still check the lights each time I use the trailer, but so
far, this simple repair has lasted over two years.
Fixing washing machine PCBs
N. B., of Taylors Lakes, Vic runs a laundry repair business, so he sees a lot of broken washing machines. Here
are some repairs he’s undertaken lately...
The first one is an obvious fault, but at first glance, it
looks like a write-off. There was a giant scorch mark and
significant damage to the PCB around the relay pin that
connects to the mains-potential “FS1” spade lug.
Replacing the relay and repairing the board was the challenge. The relay switched mains to a high-current resistive
heating element to maintain the desired wash temperature.
So the repair insulation had to be good, and the resistance
had to be low.
After removing the relay, I cleaned the soot off the damaged area on both the top and bottom sides of the board
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like
to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so,
why not send those stories in to us? It doesn’t matter what
the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the
electronics or electrical industries, to computers or even to
cars and similar.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that
your material must be original. Send your contribution by
email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
78
Silicon Chip
using an old toothbrush and PCB cleaning spray. I had to
ventilate the room well while doing this.
After I scraped through and removed the charred area, I
filled the hole left with epoxy resin from both sides. When
it was set, I marked and re-drilled the hole. Then I soldered
in a new relay. The hole I had drilled was large enough
to feed a crimp pin through it and onto the relay pin and
flow solder through to the relay pin.
I had enough clearance between the pin and the PCB,
so there would be no problems with arc-over (especially
as it’s a non-inductive load). I soldered two strands from
a 2mm2 mains cable between the spade connector and
the extended pin of the relay, snipping off the excess pin
length. A quick insulation test between the spade terminals told me the job would be reliable.
After testing it under load, I sprayed plumber’s clear rubber pipe sealant on both sides to seal the deal.
On another similar PCB, I had a problem with the door
sense circuit not recognising that the door was closed. The
circuit for this is a simple series circuit comprising a mains
source, a dropping resistor, a 1000V 1A diode, an optocoupler and the return Neutral.
The diode tested open-circuit between the diode side of
the resistor and the opto-coupler input pin. Still, it seemed
OK when I tested the diode directly in both directions. I
removed the surface-mount diode, and there was the remnant of the solder mask under one of the pads (the coating
applied to PCBs to prevent solder from sticking in unwanted
areas and forming solder bridges).
I removed the coating and re-soldered the diode, and it
tested OK. I then found that the opto-coupler internal LED
was shorted, so I had to replace that too.
I’ve also come across PCBs with breakdowns in high
voltage areas, where white streaks can be observed running between components. This is high-voltage arcing in
the intermediate layers of the board. The cure is to drill a
hole wider than the arcing track but, of course, not through
any internal or external traces on the PCB unless you bridge
them out by another path. The sides of the hole and the
edges of the PCB can then be sealed with lacquer.
Moisture ingress into the PCB can cause this and can
also affect layer capacitance, affecting the performance of
tracks carrying high-speed digital signals.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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1800 022 888
Secure Remote
Receiver
68m line-of-sight range
Up to 16 remotes per receiver
Mains-powered, quiescent power
typically 0.8W
Relay contact rating: 30A at 250V AC,
meaning it can switch large mainspowered devices like pumps
Relay on-timer ranges: 250ms to 60s
or 60s to 4.5h (see Tables 3 & 4)
Brownout protection: 192V AC switch
off, 220V AC switch on
DC supply current: 17mA with relay
off, 100mA with relay on
Part two: by John Clarke
T
HE SYSTEM COMPRISES ONE
RECEIVER AND UP TO 16 KEY-FOB
TRANSMITTERS. You can build
multiple receivers if you have different equipment to control. There is no
possibility of a transmitter triggering
the wrong receiver due to the secure
rolling-code system.
The assembly of both modules is
relatively straightforward due to the
use of mostly standard parts. The
transmitter PCB is small (30 x 45mm),
and the onboard microcontroller is in
an SMD package (SOIC-14). Still, anybody with reasonable soldering skills
and proper equipment should be able
to build it.
Transmitter construction
All the parts for the transmitter
mount on a 30 x 45mm double-sided
PCB that’s coded 10109212 – see Fig.3.
Once assembled, this will be housed in
a 65 x 25 x 17mm remote control case.
This enclosure is designed for use
with a 12V N battery, but we are using
a button cell instead. So you will need
to remove the curved plastic mouldings inside the front lid of the enclosure at the key ring end that locate the
N-sized battery, using side cutters, to
provide space for the cell holder to fit.
80
Silicon Chip
Most of the parts except for the
UHF module are mounted on the top
of the PCB. The IC and 220W resistor
are surface-mount devices.
IC1 will need to be programmed
before soldering it in place. This IC can
be obtained pre-programmed from Silicon Chip, or you can program it yourself if you have a suitable programmer.
Start by soldering the 220W resistor in place. Tack solder one end of
the resistor and remelt the solder to
straighten it, if necessary, before soldering the opposite end. Then add a
bit of fresh solder (or flux paste) to the
first joint and heat it to reflow it so that
it is nice and shiny.
Next, fit IC1, making sure it is orientated correctly. Solder pin 1 to the
PCB and check the alignment to ensure
the IC pins all line up with the pads on
the PCB before soldering the remaining
pins. If any pins have a solder bridge,
you can remove it with a bit of flux
paste and some solder wick.
Next, install the three switches,
S1-S3. These are installed close to
the PCB. Then fit LED1, ensuring its
polarity is correct (the longer lead is
the anode [A]) and positioned with the
top of the LED lens 7.5mm above the
top surface of the PCB.
Australia's electronics magazine
Mount the two 100nF ceramic
capacitors next. The capacitor adjacent to S3 needs to lie over toward IC1.
The UHF transmitter can now be
installed on the underside of the PCB,
with its pins bent so that it lies flat
against the back of the PCB with 1mm
of clearance. Check that it is correctly
orientated before soldering its pins.
Then mount the cell holder on the top
of the PCB.
The board assembly is completed
by fitting the antenna. Make it from
a 162mm length of 0.5mm diameter
enamelled copper wire. Strip the insulation from one end by about 2mm
using a sharp hobby knife, emery paper
or sharp side cutters. Close-wind it on
a 3mm mandrel (eg, a 3mm drill bit)
and then stretch it out to 28mm overall length.
Install the wire coil from the underside of the PCB with the stripped end
into the antenna hole.
Place the PCB assembly into the
enclosure base before attaching the lid.
The assembly is held together with the
two self-tapping screws supplied with
the key-fob enclosure. Then affix the
front panel label that came with the
enclosure to the lid.
Note that the switches may not
siliconchip.com.au
MAINS SW TCH
Transmitter
Powered by a 3V CR2032 lithium cell, 200mAh+ recommended, giving more than two
years of life with typical use
Standby current: typically 60nA (526μAh/year)
Active (transmitting) current: 10mA average over 160ms (900nAh / transmission)
Registration current: 10mA average over 2.75s (15.5μAh per registration)
Transmission rate: 976.5 bits/s (1.024ms per bit)
Data encoding: Manchester code with a transmission time of 82ms
Unique code generation: secure UHF rolling code control with 48-bit seed,
24-bit multiplier and 8-bit increment value
This Remote Mains Switch uses a high-security
rolling-code system, so it is suitable for
triggering motors that open doors or gates. It’s also
very robust, allowing it to switch motor-based appliances like pool pumps
and water pumps. Last month, we described the circuitry; this article
concentrates on its construction, testing, set-up, and use.
initially all be operable; some adjustments might be required. In particular, switch S2 may not be able to be
pressed due to the corner of the cell
holder adjacent to S2 being a little too
high to allow the bending of the enclosure lid lever for S2. In this case, file
down that corner of the cell holder a
little so the switch can be pressed (as
seen below).
Additionally, you might find that
the switches are pressed in when the
lid is attached. To avoid this, we will
be supplying PCBs that are thinner
than usual (1.0mm instead of 1.6mm).
This thinner PCB should prevent the
switches from being pressed by the lid.
But if you still experience this problem, you will need to trim the tops of
the plastic pins on the lid of the enclosure that press on the switches with a
file, sharp side cutters or a craft knife.
Take care not to remove too much
material, and test the switch operation
after shaving off some of this plastic.
Note that if you touch the junction
of the two halves of the coin cell (the +
and – contacts), that will cause a higher
than expected leakage current due to
oils from your skin being deposited on
the insulating surface. This will discharge the cell quicker than expected.
If you touch it like that, clean the cell
with methylated spirits or isopropyl
alcohol and avoid making contact
across the cell halves your fingers.
Receiver construction
Many of the parts (but not all) fit on
the PCB coded 10109211 that measures 159 x 109mm – see Fig.4. The
off-board parts are the IEC mains input
socket, GPO mains output socket,
pushbutton switch S1, power switch
S5 and the neon indicator lamp.
Install the resistors first, taking care
to place each in its correct position.
The resistor colour codes are shown
in the parts list, but you should also
use a digital multimeter to check each
resistor before mounting it in place.
Fig.3: the top and
bottom view of the
PCB overlay and
actual prototype
PCB for the
Transmitter half of
the Secure Remote
Controlled Mains
Switch.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 81
Diodes D1-D5 are next. Make sure
these are orientated correctly before
soldering their leads. Then install a
socket for IC1, ensuring its notched
end matches the position shown in
Fig.4. Do not fit IC1 yet – that step
comes later, after the power supply
has been checked.
Regulators REG1 & REG2 are both
mounted horizontally on the PCB.
The first step is to bend their leads
down through 90° so that they will go
through their PCB holes. In each case,
the regulator’s two outer leads are bent
down 8mm from its body, while its
centre lead is bent down 5mm from
the body.
Secure each regulator to the PCB
using an M3 x 10mm machine screw
and nut. Be careful not to get the regulators mixed up – the 7805 (REG1) is
on the right-hand side.
Tighten each assembly firmly before
soldering and trimming the leads. Do
not solder the regulator leads before
tightening the mounting screws, as
that could stress the soldered joints
and fracture the board tracks.
Next, install trimpots VR1 and VR2
(VR2’s screw adjuster toward the top
of the PCB), transistor Q1 and the BCD
switch. This must also be orientated
as shown.
The capacitors can then be mounted.
The electrolytic capacitors are polarised and must be installed with the
polarity shown (the longer lead is positive). You can install the two 100nF
MKT polyester capacitors either way
around. The two LEDs (LED1 and
LED2) are mounted with the tops of
the lenses 12mm above the surface of
the PCB and the anodes (longer leads)
to the holes marked “A”.
CON1 and CON2 are 4-way and
3-way screw terminals. CON1 is
made of two 2-way screw terminals
dovetailed together by sliding them
together along the side mouldings.
Orientate CON1 with the wire entry
toward RLY1.
CON2 has connections made only
to the two outside terminals. This is
to increase the separation between the
Active and Neutral connections. On
our prototype, we removed the centre
pin from the terminal. But if you find
it difficult to remove, it can be left in
place. The wire entry for this connector is on the left.
Then fit the headers for jumpers JP1,
JP2 and JP3.
Now install the 433.9MHz receiver
module, again ensuring it goes in the
right way around. The pin designations are all clearly labelled on the
back of the module, and you can also
match the orientation of the module
against the photographs.
The antenna is made from a 170mm
length of 1mm diameter enamelled
copper wire. Form it into a spiral by
winding it over a 6mm (or similar
diameter) mandrel, such as the shank
of a 6mm or 1/4-inch drill bit. As shown
in Fig.5, it extends from the antenna
PCB pad to another pad adjacent to
REG1.
Be sure to scrape away the enamel
insulation from both ends of the
antenna wire before soldering it into
position.
For safety reasons, the antenna must
be fully enclosed in the plastic case.
Under no circumstances should it be
mounted externally, nor should any
part of the antenna protrude from the
enclosure. Otherwise, if a mains wire
comes adrift inside the case, it could
contact low-voltage circuitry and the
antenna might also become live at
230V AC.
The transformer mounts on the
PCB and is held in place using two
cable ties that are joined to provide
a sufficient length wrap around the
transformer body and PCB via holes
provided on the board. The cable ties
prevent the transformer from coming
Fig.4: the overlay diagram
for the receiver section of the
Secure Remote Controlled
Mains Switch.
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siliconchip.com.au
Rolling Code Systems – frequently asked questions
One question that’s often asked about
rolling code systems is what happens
if one of the switches on the transmitter is pressed when the transmitter is
out of range of the receiver. Will the
receiver still work when the transmitter is later brought within range, and
the button pressed again?
This question is asked because the
code the receiver was expecting has
already been sent (but not received),
and the transmitter has rolled over to
a new code. How does the system get
around this problem?
The answer is that the receiver will
process a signal that is the correct
length and data rate, but it will not
trigger the relay unless it receives
the correct code. So if the signal format is valid, but the code is incorrect,
the receiver then calculates the next
code that it would expect and checks
this against the received code. If it
matches, the receiver will trigger the
relay; that means it missed one button press.
If the code is still incorrect, the
receiver calculates the next expected
code, and it will do this up to 10 times,
to handle cases where there have
been multiple transmitter button
presses out of range.
If none of these are correct, the
receiver then changes its operation to
allow for a possible valid signal more
than 10 codes ahead. The receiver
waits for two valid separate transmission codes before restoring correct operation.
On the first receipt of a valid transmission, it looks ahead up to 200
codes, so it is more likely the required
valid code will be found, but it doesn’t
trigger the relay. The Learn LED lights
during this look-ahead operation. If a
valid code is found, the receiver waits
for the next code sent by the transmitter. This following code must also be
correct before the receiver will operate the relay.
If only one or neither code is correct,
the receiver will not take action. If it’s
more than 200 codes ahead, the transmitter will need to be re-registered to
operate the receiver.
You can test this process by switching the receiver off and pressing one of
the remote control switches 10 times
or more. Then switch on the receiver
and press one of the switches again.
siliconchip.com.au
The Learn LED will light, indicating that
the look-ahead feature beyond the initial 10 times is activated. The selected
function on the remote should operate
on the next press of the switch, and
the Learn LED extinguishes.
While two successive transmission codes could be intercepted,
recorded and re-sent in an attempt
to activate the receiver, these codes
will not be accepted by the receiver.
That’s because they have presumably
already been received and processed,
and the receiver has already rolled
past those codes. It will look forwards
but not backwards.
Another transmitter with a different
identity will still operate the receiver
(provided it has been synchronised
in the first place). That’s because the
receiver tracks each transmitter’s rolling codes separately.
Calculating the code
Another question that’s often asked
is how the receiver knows which code
to expect from the transmitter since
it changes each time. The answer is
that the transmitter and the receiver
both use the same series of calculations to determine the next code. They
also both use the same variables in
the calculation; unique values that no
other transmitter uses.
Without going into too much detail
about how the actual rolling code
works, here are the basics. We use a
linear congruential generator (LCG)
in conjunction with a 31-bit pseudo-
random number generator (PRNG).
The LCG uses an initial seed value,
an addition value and a multiplication factor to produce a nominally
random result.
For example, if consecutive codes
have the number 3 added and then
multiplied by 49, with the same starting number, both the transmitter and
receiver will go through the same
sequence. But the actual numbers
used are very large, making it difficult
to predict the next code by peeking at
a few values in the sequence.
The code is 48 bits long, with
281,474,976,710,656 possible values (that’s over 281 quintillion or 2.8
x 1014).
One problem with the LCG is that it
can produce recurring values; depending on the factors, it can produce the
Australia's electronics magazine
same number more than once within a
few hundred rolling code calculations.
To prevent this, we include a second
layer of randomisation. So once we
have the value from the LCG calculation, this value is used in the PRNG
to generate a pseudo-random number
for the rolling code.
The PRNG randomisation runs
between one and 256 times before
providing the ‘random’ number for
the rolling code value. The number
generated is then used as the seed in
the LCG for generating the next number in the sequence. Using the PRNG
makes it difficult to predict the rolling
code sequence even if the multiplier or
addition value for the LCG is known.
We throw further complications by
also using code scrambling. The calculated code is not sent in the same
sequence each time. There are 32
possible scrambling variations that
are applied to the code, so predicting
the next code becomes very difficult.
What if the transmitter rolling code
is identical for two consecutive codes,
and the first of these identical codes
is intercepted and re-transmitted to
open the lock? Our system has safeguards to prevent the same code from
appearing twice in succession. There
is a check for the same code repeating
itself for consecutive codes. If the code
is the same, the duplicate is effectively
skipped, preventing this possibility.
Multiple transmitters
Wouldn’t the receiver lose its synchronisation if several transmitters
were used? No, because each transmitter operates independently. Each
of the 16 possible transmitters used
with a given receiver has its own different identity from one to 16.
The codes sent by each transmitter
are different due to the unique identifier
within each transmitter IC that sets the
rolling code calculation. Also, the code
includes the transmitter identity value
that differs between each transmitter.
The receiver stores up to 16 different
rolling code and calculation parameters, one for each identity, so each
transmitter is treated independently.
Therefore, even if one transmitter is
not used for months while other transmitters are used frequently, its rolling
codes will remain synchronised with
the receiver.
August 2022 83
adrift if the assembled unit is dropped.
Without them, the transformer is only
held by small pins that are secured in
the plastic of the transformer body.
The next step is to install the relay
with its coil terminals toward CON1.
Secure the relay to the board using M4
machine screws and nuts.
Final assembly
The Secure Remote Controlled
Mains Switch is housed in an ABS
enclosure measuring 171 x 121 x
55mm.
You will have to drill and shape
holes in one end of the case for the
mains switch and IEC connector. The
lid also needs holes drilled for the GPO
socket, the neon indicator and pushbutton switch S1.
A template for these cut-outs is
shown in Fig.6. This can also be
downloaded from siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/11/6418 and printed out.
The large cut-outs (for the mains
GPO and IEC connector) can be made
by drilling a series of small holes
around the inside perimeter, knocking out the central piece and filing
the job to a smooth finish. The switch
hole must not be oversized so that it
stays clipped in when inserted into the
cut-out. So take care with shaping it.
Once the drilling and cutting is
finished, install the PCB and power
switch in the case. The PCB is secured
using the integral brass inserts and four
M3 x 6mm screws. The IEC connector must be secured using Nylon M3
x 10mm screws, although you can use
metal nuts. The Nylon screws avoid
the possibility of ‘live’ screws should a
mains wire inside the enclosure come
adrift and contact them.
Before attaching the mains GPO,
switch S1 and the neon indicator,
you can print out the front panel label
shown in Fig.7. Again, this is available
for download from our website.
Print it onto photo paper and cut
out the holes for the switch, neon and
GPO with a sharp craft or hobby knife.
The panel will be held in place by the
switch and the GPO. If the label is
prone to drooping, use a small amount
of clear tape to affix the corners or dabs
of clear neutral-cure silicone sealant
or glue.
The wiring marked in Fig.5 must
be run using 10A mains-rated cable.
That includes the wires for switch
S1. Note that brown wire is used for
Active while the light blue wire is
Fig.5: the wiring diagram for the
receiver section of the Secure
Remote Controlled Mains Switch.
Note how the antenna is wound on
the right-hand edge of the PCB. You
can do this by winding it over a
6mm drill bit.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
for the Neutral leads. The green/yellow-striped wire is for Earth wiring
only, and the Earth lead from the IEC
connector must go straight to the GPO.
For the wiring not marked as 10A
(for switch S1 and the relay coil), you
can use lighter-duty 7.5A rated mains
wire.
Be sure to insulate all the connections with heatshrink tubing for safety,
and cable tie the wires to prevent
any broken wires from coming adrift.
Secure the Active and Neutral leads
to the GPO using cable ties passing
through the holes in its moulding. Use
neutral-cure silicone (eg, Roof & Gutter
silicone) to cover the Active bus piece
that connects the active pin to the fuse
at the rear of the IEC connector.
Take great care when making the
connections to the mains socket (GPO).
In particular, be sure to run the leads
to their correct terminals (the GPO
has the A, N and E terminals clearly
labelled) and do the screws up nice
and tight so that the leads are held
securely. Similarly, make sure that
the leads to CON2 are firmly secured.
Testing
Before applying power, check your
wiring carefully and ensure that all
mains connections are covered in heatshrink tubing. Then install the 10A
fuse inside the fuse holder. Leave IC1
out of its socket for the time being.
The Remote Mains Switch will be
operated with the lid open when testing and making adjustments. During
Fig.6: the lid needs to be drilled for the GPO socket, neon indicator and switch S1, while one side of the ABS
enclosure needs to be drilled and shaped for the mains switch and IEC connector.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 85
Assembling the receiver is not difficult, but make sure you use mains-rated wire in the correct colours and add insulation
and cable ties, as shown here and in the wiring diagram.
this procedure, you must not touch any
of the 230V AC wiring. This includes
the transformer primary leads plus all
wiring to the mains socket, neon lamp,
switch S1, the IEC connector, the relay
and CON2. Although all connections
are insulated, it’s wise to be careful.
In particular, note that the relay’s
contact connections, the fuse holder’s
terminals and switch (S2) could potentially all be at 230V AC. That applies
whenever the device is plugged into
the mains, even with switch S2 and
the relay off.
If your premises does not have a
safety switch (Earth leakage detector, residual current detector or RCD)
installed, consider using a portable
safety switch for this part of the test.
Rotate the timer trimpot (VR1) fully
clockwise and apply power. Use your
DMM probes to check for 5V DC (4.95.1V is acceptable) between pins 1 &
20 of IC1’s socket. If this is correct,
switch off, disconnect the mains plug
from the wall socket and install IC1.
Take care to ensure that IC1 goes in
the right way around – refer to Fig.4.
86
Silicon Chip
Power the circuit back up and, with
your DMM set to read DC volts, adjust
multi-turn trimpot VR2 so that the
voltage between TP2 and TP GND is
around 3V. This ensures that the relay
can switch on so that you can proceed
with calibration.
Next, set the DMM to a high AC
voltage range suitable for measuring
mains voltage and carefully check the
voltage between the Active and Neutral sides of the CON2 screw terminal
Australia's electronics magazine
block. Press switch S1 to turn on the
relay, set your DMM to read low DC
volts again and adjust multi-turn trimpot VR2 until the DC voltage between
TP2 and TP GND is 1% of the mains
voltage reading you got earlier.
For example, if you measured 250V
AC, adjust VR2 for a reading of 2.50V
DC at TP2. Alternatively, if the mains
voltage was 230V AC, set VR2 for a
reading of 2.30V at TP2. This sets the
brownout cut-out level to 192V AC.
siliconchip.com.au
The Acknowledge LED will light
continuously during a brownout. The
relay can only be switched on again
via a (registered) remote transmitter
or the switch on the receiver once
the mains voltage has recovered after
a brownout.
Now that you’ve calibrated the unit,
you can set jumper options JP1-JP3
and adjust the timer with VR1 (see
Tables 1-4).
Fig.7: you can either
copy the front panel
label from here, or
download it from
siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/11/6418
Registering a transmitter
When registering a transmitter and
for regular use, it is essential to have
the transmitter and receiver apart by
at least 1.5 metres. If the transmitter
is closer than this, it could overload
the UHF receiver and corrupt the signal, leading to incorrect registration or
intermittent remote control operation.
To register the transmitter with the
receiver, press Learn switch S2 on
the receiver. The Learn LED (LED1)
will light. On the transmitter, remove
the cell from its holder and reinsert it
while pressing and holding switch S1.
This will set the transmitter to Synchronisation mode (with the acknowledge LED lit) and send the registering
code when S1 on the transmitter is
released and then pressed again.
The rolling code is continuously
updated during the synchronisation
time between when S1 is released and
it is pressed again. This randomises the
rolling code generation sequence to an
undetermined point, due to the rapid
rate that the code is recalculated – on
average, around 500 times per second.
The rolling code sequence is then
well into its generating sequence. This
makes it hard to guess the code based
on possible MUI values, even if the
initial seed value for the code generation is known.
The acknowledge LED on the
receiver will flash twice, and the Learn
LED will extinguish once registration
is complete. Test the transmitter and
check that the receiver responds by
switching the relay on and off. It will
take a couple of attempts before the
transmitter and receiver start working together.
De-registering a lost
transmitter
Any transmitter that has been registered can be prevented from operating
the receiver, for example, if a transmitter is lost and you don’t want it to be
used by an unauthorised person.
Deregister the lost transmitter by
selecting the transmitter identity using
BCD switch S4. The switch is labelled
0 to F; the labels A-F correspond to
identities 10-15. Then press and hold
the Clear switch (S3) for more than
one second. The Clear LED will light
initially, then extinguish after S3 is
Table 1 – JP3 settings
released and the transmitter is deregistered.
If you are unsure of the identity of
the lost transmitter, you can deregister all the registered transmitters, one
at a time, then re-register the required
transmitters again.
Jumper options
There are three jumper positions on
the receiver board, and we’ve reproduced Tables 1 – 4 from last month, so
you can recall what they do. JP1 selects
the timer length multiplier (see Table
3). The range is 250ms to 60s with JP1
out (the x1 range) or 60s to 4.5 hours
with JP1 in (the x255 range). Table 4
shows typical timeouts versus TP1
voltages as trimpot VR1 is adjusted.
JP2 affects the function of the buttons on the remote control, as shown
in Table 2. JP3 affects the function of
switch S1 on the receiver, as shown
SC
in Table 1.
Table 3 – JP1 timer settings
JP3 in/out
Receiver switch S1 function
JP1 in/out
Timer period
Out
Off if already on, otherwise on with a timer, range per JP1
Out
0.25-60s (1x)
In
Toggle on/off
In
1m-4.5h (255x)
Table 2 – transmitter switch functions
Table 4 – Nominal period versus TP1 voltage
Switch
Function with JP2 out
Function with JP2 in
TP1
Time with JP1 out
Time with JP1 in
S1
Relay on with a timer,
range per JP1
Relay on with a timer,
0.25-60s
0V
0.25s
1m
S2
Relay on continuously
Relay on with a timer,
1m-4.5h
1.25V
15s
1h 7.5m
2.5V
30s
2h 15m
S3
Relay off
Relay off
3.75V
45s
3h 22.5m
5V
60s
4h 30m
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 87
Vintage EQUIPMENT
AVO Valve Testers and Valve
Characteristic Meters
By Ian Batty
The ultimate evolution of the AVO Valve Characteristic Meter – the MkIV.
“I checked it on the AVO.” For decades, AVO valve testers were the
standard for testing valves (their multimeters were also extremely
popular). This article explains the differences between the various AVO
meters and describes how they work.
Warning: Electrocution Hazard
All AVO valve testers apply AC voltages with peak values ~1.57 times the indicated voltage on the voltage
selectors. From the MkI onwards, they can apply AC voltages with peak values exceeding 600V. Even the
initial Valve Tester can apply peak voltages close to 400V. Exercise care with all AVO Valve Testers.
Never touch any exposed contacts on valve socket panels. Be careful when measuring voltages.
88
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A
VO was typically used to refer
to the AVO Valve Characteristic Meter (VCM), based on
a design first made by the Automatic
Coil Winder & Electrical Company in
the late 1930s. This company would
become the famous AVO, best known
for (and named for) its most prolific
product, the Amp-Volt-Ohm meter.
With its initial patent lodged in 1922
by Donald MacAdie, the AVOmeter
would become the sub-standard meter
of choice, with the final one made
in 2008 (Photo 1). Note that I wrote
sub-standard and not substandard; in
measurement circles, a sub-standard is
an instrument second only to the physical examples stored at the National
Standards Laboratory.
But there wasn’t just one “AVO”.
The initial release was the 1936 Valve
Tester, registered as British Patent
480,752: “An Improved Method and
Apparatus for Testing Radio Valves”.
Lodged by Sydney Rutherford
Wilkins on August 26, 1936, the patent describes the AVO Valve Tester
circuit and gives the design principles
described below.
Notably, there is only one non-linear
component, the rectifier in the SET
ZERO circuit, which applies pulsating
DC to the meter circuit in opposition
to the valve’s pulsating anode current.
It’s the balancing of these two currents
that allows the meter to settle to zero
in readiness for the gm measurement.
It’s a remarkably elegant design,
so let’s look into how the problem of
valve testing was definitively solved.
Valve testing basics
Simple valve testers heat the filament or cathode and measure the
emission between the filament/cathode and the anode (in a diode) or the
first grid (in all other valves). You can
use an ordinary ohm-meter for this
job. You would need a list of various
valves types and their expected resistance readings, and such charts were
the manufacturer’s specified anode
current.
2. Shift the grid voltage up and
down by half a volt each way and
observe the swing of the anode current.
Using a 6V6 with 250V on the anode
and screen, reducing the bias voltage
of -12.5V to -12V and increasing it to
-13V should give a total anode current
swing of 4.1mA, confirming a gm of
4.1mA/V or 4.1mS.
But that would demand up to three
adjustable, regulated supplies, and the
Valve Tester hails from the 1930s. Regulated supplies of the day were bulky
and prohibitively expensive. Imagine
designing and building two indepenPhoto 1: an AVOmeter (amp/volt/
dent 0~400V, 100mA supplies before
ohmmeter) Mk8, the multimeter.
the invention of the 6L6 beam tetrode.
supplied with some multimeters, such
Knowing that they could design and
as Hansen’s FN/SU models.
build mains transformers that would
This is emission testing, useful
deliver well-regulated AC supplies,
for sorting out dud valves and mak- the engineers at ACWEC decided to let
ing like-for-like comparisons. How- the valve under test do the rectifying.
ever, emission testing does not test
With the valve performing rectificathe entire valve’s performance under tion, the anode current is pulsating DC.
typical applied voltages, doesn’t test The indicating meter would simply be
at the valve’s full rated voltage or (for calibrated to respond to the pulsating
power valves) typical operating cur- DC and give a reading equivalent to a
rents, and doesn’t check for inter- steady direct current.
electrode shorts or leakages such as
The applied anode (and screen)
heater-cathode leakage.
supplies would effectively be half
The emission tester also fails to test sinewaves since the valve would not
a key valve characteristic: its mutual conduct during negative half-cycles.
conductance (gm), now commonly
A simple implementation would
called transconductance. This is the see the indicating meter settle to, say,
ratio of anode current change to grid 45mA for a 6V6, rising to 49.1mA
voltage change. It was initially mea- when the grid voltage is made 1V more
sured in microamps (of anode cur- positive. That would work, but you’d
rent) per volt (of grid voltage), with have to observe, accurately, only about
the unit of the micromho (“mho” is a 10% change in the meter reading.
ohm backwards).
Fig.1 shows the problem. It looks
It is now measured using the SI unit like the standing current is about
of microsiemens (µS). It’s a form of 45mA, and the on-test current is about
conductance (G = I ÷ V) because it’s 49mA, so the valve’s gm is maybe about
the inverse of resistance (R = V ÷ I).
4mS (49mA − 45mA).
So, the question then is – how to
We’d prefer a direct indication: a gm
measure it? In principle, the steps are: of zero means the meter does not move
1. Apply the correct grid bias,
at all, a gm of 4.1 gives a meter indiscreen voltage (tetrodes/pentodes) cation of 4.1, and so on, as shown in
and anode voltage, and trim to get Fig.2. This requires two supplies: the
Fig.1: the difference in reading you would expect applying
a 1V signal or step to the grid of a 6V6 with the specified
bias of -12.5V. It’s hard to read this with any precision.
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Fig.2: by increasing the meter’s sensitivity and offsetting the
reading so that it’s at zero with the specified bias of -12.5V, it
becomes easier to read the difference in current accurately.
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August 2022 89
Read the instruction manual before operating an AVO meter
This article includes basic lists of steps for using each type of AVO meter. This
is mainly to give you an idea of how they work. I recommended that you read
the full instructions before using any of the valve testers.
Note that in each case, the recommendation is to set the switches with the
power off or, where available, with the FUNCTION set to CHECK. Doing it this
way prevents accidental short circuits and valve damage.
selected anode voltage & the backing-
off supply, which adds to it. This is
depicted in the simplified circuit of
Fig.3. Although it’s not shown, S1’s
SET position is applying a sinewave
causing an effective -0.5V grid bias.
The anode current flows through
the mA/V pot, which acts as a variable shunt, controlling the meter’s
full-scale sensitivity. Let’s say we have
selected an anode voltage of 250V, and
the backing-off control is adjusted for
minimum effect.
The valve will draw a current of
Ia, so there will be some voltage drop
across the mA/V pot. The meter will
deflect, with the indication depending on the shunting effect of the mA/V
pot’s setting.
Let’s say the valve draws 45mA.
Adding current from the backing-off
supply will raise the voltage at the
anode end of the mA/V pot, reducing
the total current through the mA/V pot.
If the backing-off supply is adjusted to
give enough current to raise the anode
back to 250V, there will be no voltage
drop across the mA/V pot, and the
meter needle will fall to zero.
Now, applying the test bias to the
valve will increase the anode current,
but the backing-off supply is still set
to 45mA and cannot entirely cancel
the new anode current. The difference
between the new anode current and
the backing-off current will be shown
directly on the meter scale, as in Fig.2.
The “SET M. A./V.” (referred to as
“SET mA/V” for future references) can
be adjusted to the expected gm value;
in our example, 4.1mS. This control is
a continuously-variable current shunt
across the meter movement, so this setting gives the meter itself a full-scale
deflection of 4.1mA.
After doing that, the key switch is set
to the mA/V position. This inverts the
sinewave voltage on the grid, replacing the effective -0.5V with +0.5V. This
step will push the total anode current
to about 49.1mA. But, as there is a
counteracting current of 45mA from
the backing-off supply, the meter will
indicate 4.1mA (49.1mA − 45mA).
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And that is the sensitivity we set using
the mA/V control, so the meter will
show 100%.
Alternately, setting the “SET mA/V”
control to the “mA/V” position gives
10mA full-scale. In this case, our 6V6
will deflect the pointer to the 4.1 mark.
This confirms the previous measurement, but it also allows a direct reading for any valve without having to
look up a table of specs and adjust the
“SET mA/V” accordingly.
So that’s the principle used in the
AVO Valve Tester. A description of
how the follow-on Valve Characteristic Meter operates will come later.
The AVO Valve Tester
The AVO Valve Tester (Photo 2) used
a case similar to their existing multimeters, with an extension board carrying the selector switches and valve
sockets. It could test valves with anode
voltages ranging from 30-250V and
screen voltages from 60-250V. The test
range was either a direct reading of
0~10mA/V or by setting a dial for the
specified gm and reading the valve’s
merit (“goodness”) from the scale.
Heater/filament voltages matched
common valves of the day, with selections of 2, 2.5, 4, 5, 6, 7.5, 10, 13, 16,
20, 26, 30, 35 and 40 volts provided.
The test panel added a ÷7 switch so
that, for example, 1.4V valves could
be tested with a selected supply of
10V, reduced to 1.4V by actuating the
÷7 switch. The Tester also offered a
heater-cathode insulation test.
The instrument’s accuracy depended
on the mains voltage, with an internal
selector panel allowing settings of
200V AC to 250V AC in 10V steps.
The Valve Tester set an instrumentation standard that saw “the AVO’s”
widespread use in civilian and military contexts. I recall using a CT160
at the Williamtown Air Force Base
near Newcastle in the mid-1960s, and
in Darwin.
The photo opposite (Photo 3) shows
the interior. From top to bottom, the
major components are the high-voltage
transformer, meter, function keyswitch
and low-voltage transformer. The dualgang Set Zero (backing off) pot can just
be seen at lower left. The socket panel’s connector is at top right.
For all its brilliance, the Valve Tester had a serious drawback: it tested
with 0V of standing bias. This meant
that the anode current under test might
not be that recommended by the valve
manufacturer.
This matters, as transconductance
is anode-current dependent. It’s low
for low anode currents, and increases
Fig.3: a greatly simplified circuit for the original AVO Valve Tester. The twogang potentiometer at upper left is used to zero the meter before starting the
test, while the pot below the meter adjusts its sensitivity so that FSD (full
scale deflection) can be set to the expected reading. A good valve will then
provide FSD, while a weak valve will give a somewhat lower reading.
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as anode current increases to the permitted maximum.
Let’s consider the 6AU6. With zero
grid bias, it draws around 17mA to
give a gm around 5.5mS. But it’s often
used in audio amplifiers at anode currents as low as 300µA. What is its gm
at such a low current? The Valve Tester cannot apply variable bias (and
we’d need around -4.5V to get such
a low anode current), so it’s impossible to find out.
The Valve Tester also swings the grid
positive, with possible grid emission
effects giving false readings.
To explain the remaining features of
Fig.3, diode D1 rectifies the backing-off
supply to balance the anode current
indication back to zero for testing. In
the SET position, S1 applies an AC
voltage to the grid. Setting S1 to the
TEST position reverses the polarity of
the grid signal, causing the anode current to rise, and allowing the meter to
indicate the change in anode current
as a transconductance reading.
Diode D2 ensures that the screen
cannot go negative during the valve’s
non-conducting cycle. Allowing this
could disrupt the instrument’s measurement accuracy. This diode is
not included in all diagrams; I have
included it in case you find a Valve
Tester with it fitted.
So, while the Valve Tester gave reliable indications for valves (mostly triodes) that specified low (essentially
zero) grid bias voltages, it could not
be relied on for those that required a
negative grid bias for normal operation. That’s pretty much everything
with an oxide-coated cathode.
Also, one had to trust that the calibration was accurate. Valves are specified for a range of filament/heater
voltages, and it was luck whether the
Valve Tester actually applied the correct voltage on any one particular test.
While manufacturers allow as
much as ±10% variation of heater
voltage, deviations from the nominal voltage affect results. On test, an
ECC82/12AX7 returned gm values of
2.05mS and 1.5mS for heater voltages of 6.9V (+10%) and 5.7V (-10%),
with a reading of 1.8mS at the specified 6.3V. That’s a variation of +14%/
-17% over the recommended operating range.
Basics of operation
1.
With the power off, consult the
AVO data book and set the roller
switches to the required positions. Set
the filament/heater voltages. Be careful with 1.4V valves; you need the ÷7
setting on the socket panel with the
10V setting on the Tester.
2.
Set the mA/V control to the value
shown in the data book to get an indication of relative functionality, or to
10 to get an actual transconductance
reading.
3.
Push the key switch to the mA/V
position and read off the meter indication.
The Valve Characteristic
Meter (VCM)
The Valve Characteristic Meter was
a significant rework of the design.
First, it was unitised and made
more ergonomic. The meter and controls were mounted on a sloping front
panel, making operation and observation much easier. The socket panel was
located on the top surface, removing
the previous connecting lead, plug and
socket. Sockets that had been recently
invented were included. The socket
panel was protected against debris
intrusion by a flip-up cover.
Second, the mains voltage selector
was brought out to the front panel,
with an indication on the test meter.
Third, they added a variable grid
bias control. Operators could set up
all of the valve manufacturer’s specified parameters.
Fourth, the VCM incorporated a
short-circuit relay which appears to
have been included in some issues of
the Valve Tester. This needed to operate at any anode/screen current selection. To achieve this, the relay’s core
held enough residual magnetism to
stay latched in with no current flow.
In regular operation, the anode/
screen current is pulsating DC due to
the rectifying action of the valve under
test. The resulting uni-directional
magnetisation added to the residual
magnetism, holding the relay in.
But a short circuit would draw current on both half-cycles of the internal
Photo 2 (above): the original AVO Valve Tester. The part on the
right was an expanded version of their AVOmeter ‘multimeter’ (a
term that hadn’t been coined yet), while the part on the left houses
all the valve sockets plus some extra controls.
Photo 3 (right): the inside of the AVO Valve Tester is busy but there
are very few actual components. Most of it is (very neat) wiring!
The meter movement is right in the middle, while the transformers
are at the top (HV) and bottom (LV).
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August 2022 91
Fig.4: the Valve Characteristic Meter (based on the MkIII/IV VCM) is a
refinement of the original concept that added a great deal of flexibility. Its
main advantages are the ability to test the valve over a wide range of bias
voltages and a built-in overload/short circuit protection relay that ends the
test if too much current flows.
Fig.5: the final evolution of the AVO Valve Tester, the VCM163, included a
solid-state sinewave generator and amplifier/rectifier to provide even more
accurate results.
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alternating voltage supply. The relay
might hold in on the first half-cycle
(depending on polarity) but would be
thrown out as the opposite-polarity
half-cycle began. Once thrown out, it
was reset by pushing the RESET button on the control panel.
Fig.4 shows the basics of the VCM
circuit. The backing-off/zero circuit
has been modified: it now applies the
opposing current directly to the meter,
but with the same effect. Notice that
the meter now reads the voltage drop
across the fixed 200W resistor (R36).
You can regard the meter as a sensitive, multi-range voltmeter calibrated
in transconductance when testing.
The overload relay (RLYA) senses
anode and screen currents in separate
windings. As described, the alternating current resulting from a short circuit will throw the relay out, demanding that the operator reset it manually.
As with the Valve Tester, diode D2
ensures that the screen never has negative voltage applied.
The bias supply is in two parts. In
SET mode, the operator uses potentiometer VR5 to apply the specified
grid voltage. Switching to TEST mode
makes the grid voltage 1V more positive. This causes the anode current
to increase above the balanced value
when the backing-off was set. That
extra current will be read as the valve’s
transconductance.
Along with this, the design rework
provided for anode current measurement. The name “Valve Characteristic
Meter” is a clue. This rework allows
the operator to record the anode current for any combination of control
grid bias, screen voltage and anode
voltage. It was possible to plot the
entire set of grid-anode characteristics
for any valve that would fit the extensive set of sockets.
In effect, the VCM offered a complete test bench for any valve, of any
kind, for any test conditions.
Operators could also identify weak
valves, which would work fine at low
anode currents, but lacked the emission to deliver full performance at
full current. Matching valves to each
other (important for high-performance
push-pull operation) was also made
much easier.
A manufacturer aiming to operate a
particular output valve from a lower-
than-specified high tension (HT) supply could easily measure that valve’s
characteristics and could refine a
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design to suit. The venerable 6V6, for
example, can give up to 4.5W of output.
But a small mantel set can get by with
just one or two watts to the speaker.
Could an ‘economy’ set do this using
a 6V6 with just 150V HT? Sure, and
the VCM could confirm that.
Basics of operation
1.
With power off or the function
setting in the CHECK(C) position, consult the AVO data book and set the
roller switches to the required positions. If the VCM was off, switch on
in the CHECK(C) position and adjust
the SET~ control for the correct mains
indication.
2.
Set filament/heater voltages.
3.
Set grid, screen & anode voltages.
4.
Set the METER SELECTOR
(MkI-II) or METER SWITCH (MKIII-IV)
to 100(mA).
5.
Switch to C/H.ins to warm the
valve up before testing.
6.
Switch to TEST and read the
anode current. Set the METER SELECTOR/SWITCH to a lower range if
needed.
7.
Set the SET mA/V control to the
expected gm value and set the METER
SELECTOR to mA/V.
8.
Adjust the SET ZERO (MkI-II) or
BACKING OFF (MkIII-IV, COARSE
and FINE) to bring the meter to 0.
9.
Press the mA/V button or switch
to mA/V and read the valve’s merit
from the coloured scale.
10.
To get the actual gm value, repeat
the above, but with the SET mA/V
control at 10. Press the mA/V button and read off the valve’s actual gm
value, treating the calibrations as a
0~10mS scale.
The CT160
The ‘clamshell’ CT160 used the
same basic electronic design. While it
did not offer laboratory testing capability, it became the standard ‘quick,
accurate and ready’ instrument used in
many workshops and service centres.
The CT160 only operates as a gm tester; it does not give anode current readings. The electrode voltage settings
(grid, screen and anode) work as for
the MkI-IV and the VCM163. But the
anode current settings take the place
of the backing-off controls in all previous models. A simplified version of
its circuit diagram is shown in Fig.6.
The CT160’s meter is fixed at 700μA
FSD. Perhaps confusingly, the 1mA/V
mark, at around 74% of FSD, is a DC
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Fig.6: a simplified circuit diagram of the CT160. It doesn't provide all the
features of its predecessors (eg, it lacks anode current readings), but it is
still a useful instrument and was widely used.
equivalent of 520μA. With the SET
mA/V control at 1mA/V, the applied
grid voltage decrement is 0.52V.
Using the formula ∆Ia = ∆vg x gm, a
valve with a gm of 1mS will give an
anode current increment of 520μA,
resulting in a scale indication of 1.0.
So, while a 0.52V decrement would
give a 1.0 indication for a valve with
a gm of 1mS, applying the 0.52V decrement to a valve with any higher
mutual conductance would overswing
the meter. The SET mA/V control does,
indeed, give a 0.52V decrement on its
1mA/V position, but it gives proportionately less for each higher dialled-in
gm value: 260mV for gm = 2mS, 130mV
for gm = 5mS and so on. I was, again,
awed by the elegance of this instrument’s design.
As with the previous VCMs, the
CT160 is calibrated with simple DC
values, so this preceding complexity
is hidden from the operator.
Basics of operation
1.
With the power off or the function
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setting in the SET~ position, consult
the AVO data book and set the roller
switches to the required positions.
There are plug selectors and a switch
beneath the transparent lid just below
the meter. Be aware that these are at
mains potential. Adjust for the correct
mains indication.
2.
Set filament/heater voltages.
3.
Set grid, screen & anode voltages.
4.
Set the anode current’s coarse
switch and fine potentiometer controls
to the specified values.
5.
Switch to C/H to warm the valve
up before testing.
6.
Rotate the mA/V control to the Cal
position and set the function switch
to TEST.
7.
Be ready to adjust the anode current, as the meter may swing wildly
back past 0, or forward past full scale.
I find it easier to adjust the grid voltage when the meter overswings – it has
the same authority as the two anode
current controls combined, but it’s a
single control and is easier to manage.
Once the meter gives a safe indication,
August 2022 93
trim the grid voltage and anode current controls. Aim to get the specified
anode current, even if the grid voltage
is not close to the specified value.
Anode current has the most effect
on gm, so the correct setting of anode
current has priority. Be aware that a
very low grid voltage implies a valve
with poor emission.
The VCM163
Finally, the VCM163 introduced a
solid-state measurement design (Fig.5).
This revolutionary instrument uses
a transistor oscillator to generate a
sinewave signal that is applied to
the grid of the valve under test. This
high-frequency signal modulates the
half-wave 50Hz applied to the grid.
The VCM163 uses a high-pass filter in the anode circuit to pick off the
amplified high-frequency modulation
from the anode current. This signal is
further amplified and rectified to drive
the transconductance meter.
Since the transconductance is
measured by the amplification of a
high-frequency signal, AVO removed
the entire backing-off section. This
allowed continuous measurement of
anode current by a dedicated meter.
No longer did operators need to set
anode current, back off, measure
transconductance and then remove the
backing-off setting to check that the
anode current had not drifted.
Half-wave rectification is now done
by silicon diodes, removing the possibility that high-voltage negative
half-cycles applied to valve electrodes
will affect the instrument’s accuracy.
The VCM163 retains the fundamental AVO principle: mains transformers
can deliver sufficient regulation to permit accurate valve testing without the
need for regulated DC supplies.
Setting the valve up as a signal
amplifier gave the highest accuracy. It
also took the gm meter out of the valve’s
current path, meaning that overloads
caused by incorrect settings, or shorts,
would not pass damaging amounts of
current through the meter’s delicate
moving-coil winding.
Basics of operation
Set the CIRCUIT SELECTOR to
CHECK(C) and LEAKAGE to ~. Check
that the meter settles to the calibration
mark. If the front-panel SET~ control
won’t adjust, remove power, open the
voltage selector panel on the left side
and adjust the coarse mains tapping.
2.
With power off or the function setting in the CHECK(C) position, consult
the AVO data book and set the roller
switches to the required positions.
3.
Set filament/heater voltages.
4.
Set grid, screen & anode voltages.
5.
Set the anode current and mA/V
controls to the expected values.
6.
Switch to C/H to warm the valve
1.
up before you start testing it.
7.
Switch to TEST and read off
the anode current from the left-hand
meter. Read the transconductance
value from the right-hand meter.
Model identification
The Valve Tester is immediately
identifiable by its two-part construction. Valve Characteristic Meters can
be identified as follows:
] MkI: Grey aluminium exterior case,
unitised design, flip-top lid over valve
sockets, side carry handles, sits flat on
the bench.
] MkII (Photo 4): Similar to the MkI
with added front handles, standup
runners raising the instrument off
the bench and a valve data book tray
underneath.
] MkIII (Photo 5): Revised design
with ‘roll-over’ handles, panels over
the frame, black front panel, large dials
for grid voltage (left) and transconductance (right).
] MkIV (see lead photo): Revised
design with combined grid voltage
variable/range switch and transconductance variable/range switch.
] CT160 (Photo 6): clamshell design,
transconductance only.
] VCM163 (Photo 7): has two meters.
Special handling
Never tap any meter on the glass.
Be aware that the original Valve
► Photo 4: the AVO VCM MkII looks similar to the MkI,
also having a flip-top lid with extra handles fitted to the
front.
Photo 5 (above): the AVO VCM MkIII has roll-over handles.
Its grid voltage and gm controls are on the front panel,
while the MkIV has them behind protective windows.
Source: Rodney Champness
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Tester meter movement is not enclosed,
as the interior photo shows. Opening
the back of the Valve Tester exposes
the meter movement, making ‘clean
room’ maintenance essential.
The instrument is well-constructed
but my example had a two-wire power
lead. I did notice that slight ‘tingle’ that
you get (due to mains leakage) when I
ran my fingers over the front panel. I
recommend the fitting of a three-core
power lead to provide Earthing. You
would need to make connections to
the metal frames of the two power
transformers.
If you decide to take on an AVO to
repair, get all the info you can first.
All VCMs are compact, and the MkIV
is tight to the point of inaccessibility/
invisibility for some components.
Further reading
The available circuit drawings are
often difficult to interpret. I welcome
discussion and corrections regarding
my simplified illustrations.
I have not found a single, easily-
comprehensible circuit for any AVO.
An example is the calibration circuit –
the critical first area to examine when
repairing or calibrating.
I found the original AVO documentation hard to understand, mixing
operating instructions with technical
descriptions. If you’re a newcomer to
the AVO, consider getting help from
an experienced owner.
You can find the detailed manufacturer’s instructions online, so I have
not attempted to make this article comprehensive. You can find out a lot more
Differences between voltage readings and applied voltages
AVO valve testers rely on the tested valve’s self-rectification, so the applied voltages and currents are not the same as those selected on the controls, or indicated on the meter.
On their DC ranges, meters commonly display average values, so they indicate 0.637 of a half-sinewave’s peak value, rather than the correct RMS factor
of 0.707 for AC.
The conversion factor from average to RMS is (0.707 ÷ 0.637) = 1.11, so with
a selected anode voltage of 400V – the DC-equivalent mean – the instrument
applies 444V RMS to the valve anode. While you won’t usually measure it, this
is a peak value of some 630V. AVO’s meter is calibrated to deflect to twice the
valve’s anode current. The grid voltage is even stranger. Selecting -10V bias on
the Grid Voltage setting measures as -5.2V on an average-reading meter.
This is a bit confusing, but you only need to consider it if you’re testing or calibrating an AVO valve tester. In the main part of the article, I treat all currents
and voltages as DC values, unless the AC values are critical to description or
calibration.
Just to reiterate, the controls and the meter are calibrated for the equivalent
DC values.
by reading those instructions. See the
links to just some of the many valuable
references at the end of this article.
Next month
In the follow-up article next month,
I’ll describe three AVO Valve Testers/
VCMs that I was given to test (plus my
own CT160) and some of the problems
that I encountered. In some (but not
all) cases I was able to fix the problems
and get them working properly again.
Useful links
Martin Forsberg’s excellent entries
on the UK Vintage Radio Repair and
Restoration Discussion Forum, in collaboration with Euan MacKenzie and
permissions from Yutaka Matsuzaka:
siliconchip.au/link/abeh (be aware
Photo 6: the CT160 is the only AVO Valve Tester in a
clamshell case. While it’s a later design, it only offers direct
measurement of gm.
siliconchip.com.au
these texts are copyrighted).
For the MkIV, see Guido Pedrali
Noy’s thorough reconstruction of the
user manual at: siliconchip.au/link/
abe5
Frank Philipse’s extensive list of
resources for the MkII/III/IV, CT160
and the VCM163: https://frank.
pocnet.net/instruments/AVO/
Extensive discussions for AVO
products at: siliconchip.au/link/abei
A must read (!) article on the
VCM163 at: www.schmid-mainz.de/
Radio-Bygones_140.pdf
Even more information on the AVO
MkIV, including meter replacement:
siliconchip.au/link/abe8
For information on servicing and
repairs, see pages 3-10 of the PDF at:
SC
siliconchip.au/link/abeg
Photo 7: the VCM163 is the only one with two meters!
They show DC anode current and transconductance.
Source: Jerry Aldrich, UK Vintage Radio Repair Forum
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 95
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Simple mains timer/LED lamp dimmer
If you need a low-power night light,
for example, in a child’s bedroom, you
usually have to buy a specialised light.
But I realised that a high-power mains
lamp could be configured to also act
as a night light. So, I designed this circuit and put it in a box with a plug and
socket so it can be connected inline
with an LED desk or floor lamp.
When the mains is switched on at
the wall (or the switch on the box),
the lamp comes on at full brightness.
After a while (approximately 35 minutes), this lamp is automatically converted to a low-power light as the X2
capacitor is connected in series with
it, limiting the current that it can draw.
The circuit is based on a transformerless power supply (at lower left),
generating a 24V DC rail. The timing
circuit is based on schottky diode D6 (a
BAT85) and a 100µF capacitor. While
a schottky diode is reverse-biased, it
has a higher leakage current than standard diodes, around 0.2-0.5µA. That
slowly charges the low-leakage 100µF
capacitor.
Capacitance
Lamp
Current
100nF
5.9mA
220nF
12.7mA
330nF
19.5mA
470nF
27mA
680nF
39mA
1μF
57mA
96
Silicon Chip
As the capacitor voltage increases,
so does the voltage at the collector of
buffer transistor Q2; Q1 & Q2 form a
complementary (or Sziklai) pair that
acts like an NPN transistor with a very
high gain, so the timing capacitor is
not discharged.
Eventually, after about 35 minutes,
enough voltage is applied to the relay
coil to pull it in, disconnecting the
direct path to power the lamp. Then,
current must flow through the X2
capacitor. The value of this capacitor
can be changed to alter the dimmed
output current, as shown in the table
on the circuit diagram.
Note that not all LED lamps will
work well with a lower-than-nominal
voltage/current. Some will flicker. You
might have to test several LED globes
or lamps before finding one that works
well with this circuit. Those with a
simple linear driver are more likely
to dim fully and not flicker.
The RC low-pass filter after the
mains switch (47W/100nF) limits the
inrush current when the mains switch
Australia's electronics magazine
is closed. Dissipation in the 47W resistor will be around 355mW for a 20W
lamp load. This resistor limits the maximum load to around 30W, but the rest
of the circuit isn't designed for more
than that anyway.
This circuit isn’t just for bedrooms,
either. You could have such a light in
a place like a basement, so you can
see well enough to reach the switch,
then flick it off and on again to turn the
light on to full brightness. As a bonus,
you can’t forget to turn the light off –
it will automatically dim some time
after you leave.
Note that this needs to be built into
an Earthed metal case (eg, a sealed diecast aluminium box) with fully insulated mains wiring.
You could cut an extension cord in
half and feed in the wires via two cord
grip grommets, or use an IEC mains
input socket and a GPO mounted on
the box, as shown in the circuit diagram below.
Hichem Benabadji,
Oran, Algeria. ($80)
Editor's note: a 1N4004 can be used
instead of a 1N4007 for D5.
siliconchip.com.au
Hearing Loop (telecoil) phone headset
In the October 2020 issue of Silicon
Chip, I wrote an item for Circuit Notebook (siliconchip.au/Article/14603)
about making induction headphones
for cochlear implants and hearing aid
telecoils (T-coils). Ironically, I used
hearing protectors bought at a local
hardware store at a very modest cost.
I am profoundly deaf and have bilateral cochlear implants that allow me to
hear pretty well. Coming from a professional electronic background starting in the early 1960s, I find today’s
highly integrated electronic technologies absolutely stunning.
For various reasons, landline phone
communications can still present difficulties for cochlear implant users,
probably more so than for hearing
aid users. That's because cochlear
implants provide direct electrical
stimulation of nerves in the cochlea,
bypassing most of the ear mechanics.
In contrast, a hearing aid uses all
of the ear mechanics as well as a vast
array of nerves in the cochlear by
amplifying sound pressure and applying it to the eardrum. Thus, hearing aid
acoustic stimulation tends to provide a
fuller acoustic spectrum than cochlear
implant stimulation.
Sometimes, bilateral cochlear
implants can have different left-right
pitch perception, making accurate
sound perception difficult, especially
with the limited landline bandwidth
and telephone handset's poor sound
reproduction. So a cochlear implantee may have some difficulty using a
standard single-sided acoustic phone
handset.
An improvement for both implantee
and hearing aid users can be achieved
with a bilateral “call-centre” style headset and microphone, eliminating ambient acoustic noise and reverberation
while also feeding sound to both ears
equally. Further clarity can be achieved
by eliminating acoustic coupling and
having the landline audio electromagnetically coupled to the cochlear
implant or hearing aid with a T-coil.
While a standard call centre headset
will have some level of magnetic field
leakage, maintaining stable coupling
to the leakage magnetic field can be
problematic. Headsets accompanying
consumer phones have small receivers and are prone to moving around
on the head.
Also, the placement of the magnetic
siliconchip.com.au
receiver coil in the cochlear implant
sound processor, or hearing aid, may
not align well with the headset’s magnetic field. So, the problems are with
magnetic field strength, proximity and
stability.
Fortunately, while not particularly
elegant, industrial hearing protectors
can provide some solutions to these
problems. They can be used as a coil
former to give a sizeable magnetic
field distribution around the hearing
devices’ T-coil, irrespective of location. They are also robust and provide
a range of positional adjustments that
are stable.
My noise protectors had a conveniently shaped plastic profile behind
the soft earmuffs, almost like a bobbin.
This shape made a good coil former on
which I previously wound 24 turns of
0.25mm diameter enamelled copper
wire. I then glued light-duty figure8 cable to the headband using hotmelt glue to connect the left and right
induction coils in series, as shown in
the photo.
I terminated the windings inside
the plastic ear-cup through a 1mm
hole drilled for the purpose. I then
drilled more holes in the left-hand ear
cup, one for the incoming two-core
shielded cable plus one for a small
screw to anchor an internal solder lug.
To turn these into a headset, I
just had to add a boom microphone.
My Uniden landline handset has a
three-pin jack socket with contacts for
common (sleeve), ear (ring) and microphone (tip). I thought about using an
electret mic insert and making a boom
fitting, but instead ordered a Uniden
call centre headset with one earphone
and a boom mic for about $40.
This solved two problems; it provided an elegant microphone solution,
and I was able to determine the resistance of the single earpiece at 150W.
I then added a ¼-watt 150W resistor
in series with the two earphone coils,
presenting a total resistance of 157W
to the handset.
The mic’s boom attachment point
was a 5mm diameter plastic post
held down with a small self-threading
screw. I drilled a 5mm hole low down
in the left earmuff, with two 2mm
holes close by to feed the fine mic
wires through. Fortuitously, the length
of the plastic post was the same as the
depth of the hole through the earmuff.
On completion of the mechanical
assembly, I performed the wiring.
Apart from the figure-8 wire connection to the right-hand induction coil
across the headband, all the solder
connections are in the left-hand ear
muff. With very little space in which to
make soldered connections, I extended
the length of the microphone wires by
soldering to them and insulating them
with heatshrink tubing.
I used a solder lug to anchor several
common connections and then fixed
The headset makes phone conversations much easier for those with a hearing
aid or cochlear implant.
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 97
Smoke, alcohol or LPG alarm
This circuit raises an alarm if it
detects smoke or LPG cooking gas
leakage, or even alcohol vapours.
This is achieved by using the same
circuit with one of several sensors
designed to detect smoke, LPG or
alcohol.
So different alarms can be made
by simply changing the sensor. For a
smoke alarm, use the MQ2 sensor; to
detect alcohol, use the MQ3; or use
the MQ6 sensor for LPG.
The MQx sensors each have six
pins. The heater filament, between
pins H-H, is powered from the 5V
rail. Two pairs of A-B pins connect
across the sensing element; it doesn’t
matter which pair you use.
Half of the LM358 dual op amp
the lug using a screw in a hole already
drilled for the purpose. The wiring
is hidden under foam acoustic pads
inside the ear cups.
The cable connecting to the phone
has two wires, pink and white, plus
a screen braid, with a three-way jack
plug on one end. Do not mix up the
microphone’s white return wire with
the white wire in the cable back to the
phone. If necessary, put a label on the
microphone's white wire, change its
colour with a marking pen, or solder
it to the common lug first.
Circuit
Ideas
Wanted
98
Silicon Chip
(IC1) is wired as a comparator. A reference voltage set using potentiometer VR1 is applied to the inverting
input (pin 2) while the sensor voltage goes to the non-inverting input
(pin 3). The sensor produces a current that is converted to a voltage by
the 10kW resistor between the B pin
and ground.
Output pin 1 of the op amp swings
high whenever the sensor voltage
goes above the reference voltage. A
small amount of hysteresis is provided via positive feedback using
a 10MW resistor so that the output
doesn’t vacillate when the sensor
voltage hovers around the trigger
threshold.
When pin 1 of IC1 goes high,
The centre (ring) contact on the jack
plug connects to one side of the string
of two induction coils and the 150W
resistor. The opposite end of that string
goes to the common solder lug. The
third and longest contact (sleeve) at
the base of the jack plug is returned via
the screening braid, which you should
also connect to the common lug.
When finished, check for around
157W between the jack plug ring
and sleeve contacts. Depending on
the probe polarity, there should be
around 1.2-2.5kW between the tip
transistor Q1 releases the reset signal on 555 timer IC2, which is configured as an astable multivibrator,
so it starts oscillating. The frequency
depends on the value of the capacitor connected to pin 6 and the two
resistors connected to pin 7. The
resulting square wave is AC-coupled
to a small 8W speaker to produce the
alarm tone.
After switching on the 5V supply,
wait about ten seconds for the filament to heat up. Then adjust VR1
until the alarm just stops sounding.
Enclose the PCB in a suitable box
with vents so that fumes can circulate near the sensor.
Raj K. Gorkhali,
Hetadu, Nepal. ($75)
and sleeve. If all indications are OK,
plug your induction headset into a
suitable phone and press talk to hear
a dial tone.
Using my Silicon Chip Hearing
Loop Tester/Level Meter (November
& December 2010; siliconchip.au/
Series/15), I found that the dial tone
was smack bang on 0dB or 0.1A/m.
The phone also has a volume control
that can reduce the volume below
that level.
Anthony Leo,
Cecil Park, NSW. ($90)
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to
feature it in Circuit Notebook. We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, cheque or direct to
your PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase anything from the SILICON CHIP Online
Store, including PCBs and components, back issues, subscriptions or whatever. Email your circuit
and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
How to convert 12V AC
to 24V DC
I want to add low-voltage LED retro
festoon string lights to an existing
garden lighting system. All the units
that look good and are robust require
24V DC, whereas the garden lighting
is 12V AC.
Additional cabling would require
lifting up pavers & digging up an established garden. So I am keen to know
whether I can use a small 230:115V
AC transformer in reverse to step up
the voltage and then regulate it to
DC. The 12V transformer has plenty
of spare capacity as originally sized
for 12V halogens which have been
replaced with 12V LED units. (T. H.,
Batehaven, NSW)
● It’s possible that the step-up transformer would work; it depends on the
details of the transformer, but likely it
would give you double the AC voltage.
You would still have to convert that
to DC. However, there are simpler/
easier ways.
To start with, a simple full-wave
voltage doubler feeding a pair of
4700µF 16V electrolytic capacitors
will give you pulsating DC averaging
around 25V DC with a 2A load. Using
pairs of diodes in series would drop
that to be very close to 24V DC, as
shown in Fig.1. The capacitors need
to be low-ESR types with a high ripple current rating, ideally at least 2A.
There will be a few volts of ripple
across the LEDs (6V peak-to-peak
according to our simulation). We suspect that won’t bother them, but it
depends on their exact design.
The output voltage of that circuit
is somewhat load-dependent; for a
1A load (say), you would just need to
reduce the filter capacitors to 2200µF
and eliminate the extra series diodes
to get much the same output voltage.
If you need the DC supply to be
ripple-free, there are a few ways to
achieve that. Fig.2 shows a similar circuit with a very basic linear regulator
based on an NPN transistor and zener
diode. Simulation shows it delivers
a smooth ~24V DC output. The transistor should be a type with decent
gain up to a few amps (such as the
KSC2334Y shown).
Q1 will dissipate close to 10W, so it
will need a decent heatsink; an IP65
sealed metal case could be used to
house the circuit and also as a heatsink, with an additional finned heatsink bolted to the outside directly
opposite the transistor. The output
ripple with this version is a fraction
of a volt.
With a linear design like this, it’s
hard to avoid dissipating a few watts
if you need a mostly ripple-free output. For a more efficient approach,
try using a rectifier/filter circuit like
those shown here with Tim’s Blythman’s Buck/Boost LED Driver (June
2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15340) to
convert the pulsating DC to a smooth,
regulated DC. We have a kit for that
project (siliconchip.au/Shop/20/6292).
Because that board can deal with
an input voltage above or below the
output, the exact voltage being fed
to it isn’t critical. However, it’s better to arrange for the input voltage to
be above, or at least close to, the output voltage. That will give maximum
efficiency. It can deliver around 5A
in this configuration, given sufficient
filter capacitance on the output of the
rectifier.
Dimming for Buck/
Boost LED Driver
I ordered the Buck-Boost LED Driver
kit (SC6292; June 2022, siliconchip.
au/Article/15340) and LED panel from
you last week, and the package arrived
promptly early this week; thank you.
It’s now assembled and running nicely.
Compliments to whoever laid
the PCB out, as it’s obviously been
designed for ease of assembly. Having
most of the smaller components lined
up across the board’s edges with large
pads made it quite easy to place and
solder them.
One comment about the assembly
instructions: nowhere did I see any
mention of soldering the ground pad
of the LM5118 to the PCB. I heated the
via on the underside of the PCB with
a hot iron and fed a quantity of solder
into the via. It seemed to wick in, so
hopefully that worked.
Fig.1 (left): the full-wave voltage doubler will give close to 24V DC from 12V
AC, but with substantial ripple.
Fig.2 (below): adding a very basic linear regulator applies a smooth 24V DC
to the load, but with about 10W dissipation. Using the Buck/Boost LED Driver
instead would result in much lower losses.
100
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Getting to the point of my email,
Can you suggest a modification to add
a dimmer control? I want to make a
work light with the LED, but it’s very
bright. I’d thought the current limit
adjustment pot might work, but it only
reduces the current to 1.5A, which
is still very bright. (D. S., East Melbourne, Vic)
● Thanks for the kind words about
the layout. We must admit that the
LM5118 is well suited to a convenient
layout. You are correct that we should
have mentioned the thermal pad on
IC1 – we soldered it on our prototype. We have published an erratum
to make readers aware of this. With
hand soldering, the process you used
is about the only practical way to solder such a pad.
Unfortunately, the current control
does not lend itself well to a minimum value near zero as it depends
on the current rising high enough to
overcome the diode threshold above
the 1.23V reference voltage. If you
are comfortable with a proportionally
lower maximum current, substituting a higher-value shunt resistor than
15mW (the one between TP4 and TP6
only) should work.
Another option is to apply a PWM
signal across JP1, which should effectively PWM the output. We haven’t tested this; you might need to
remove (or reduce) the 100nF capacitor labelled C14 attaching to IC1’s pin
7 (7th component from the left along
the bottom) to cut out the soft-start
ramping. We think a relatively low
PWM frequency would give the most
linear response.
Finally, you could simply add an
external voltage control pot. It won’t
give perfect control but should let you
cut the brightness way down, while
the current limiting will prevent any
damage to the LED at the upper end
of its range.
With the current limit at 4A, the
voltage pot range from off to full will
be about 700W to 400W. So a 500W pot
with a 750W parallel resistor between
the wiper and one end, plus a 390W
resistor in series with both, should give
a suitable adjustment range. This combination can be wired up in place of
the onboard 5kW multi-turn trimpot.
Solar PV (photovoltaic)
water heating
What is the strategy to connect solar
panels (in series or parallel) to a water
heater with a resistive element, say
about 2.4kW? I expect you need to
interface with maybe an inverter and
batteries. Perhaps you have covered
this previously in the magazine. (F.
C., Maroubra, NSW)
● We have covered this previously
in the magazine on several occasions.
There are various ways to do what you
are asking, all of which have problems.
For example, see:
• September 2013, pages 98 & 99
• September 2014, pages 98 & 99
• October 2017, page 96
• December 2017, pages 4 & 5
The bottom line is that if you’re
going to use solar power to heat water,
you ideally want an electric water
heater with dual elements (a main
element and a ‘booster’) so that you
can power one from the mains and
the other from solar power. That way,
you’ll always have hot water.
The problem with feeding solar
power to an inverter with the output of the inverter driving one of the
water heater elements is that it likely
won’t deliver any power unless there is
enough solar power available to drive
the element at its full power rating (eg,
2.4kW). So that approach is generally
not going to work well.
That leaves the idea of arranging the
panels so that they produce around
240V DC in peak sun under load and
driving the heater element with DC.
This has the advantage that it will provide whatever power is available, even
if your panels cannot deliver enough
power to achieve the full rated element power. It’s also going to be the
most efficient method.
However, using DC will promote
corrosion, so it is necessary to arrange
for a contactor or similar to reverse the
polarity periodically (eg, every 12 or 24
hours). Also, it is unclear whether the
thermostat will last long if it’s switching DC rather than AC.
Finally, you would probably need to
get a licensed electrician to do the wiring if the heater is also mains-powered,
and it’s unclear whether your average
electrician would want to do this sort
of work.
In conclusion, you’re probably better off installing a standard solar hot
water system as they are designed for
the job.
Help to find a
Coilcraft part
I am having trouble finding one of
the Coilcraft items for the Precision
AM/FM DDS Signal Generator (May
2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15306).
Please verify the part number for the
Coilcraft 1206CS-121XJEC 120nH chip
inductor. It does not appear to exist on
either the Coilcraft site or Tricomponents site. (J. S., Avondale, Qld)
● It seems like a valid part number.
Here it is on Coilcraft’s website:
siliconchip.au/link/abff
We don’t think that using that particular part is especially critical;
Raspberry Pi Pico BackPack
With the Raspberry Pi Pico at its core, and fitted with a 3.5inch touchscreen. It's easy-to-build and can be programmed in
BASIC, C or MicroPython. There's also room to fit a real-time
clock IC, making it a good general-purpose computer.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$80 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6075)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6075
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the March 2022 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15236
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 101
many manufacturers have 120nH chip
inductors that could be used instead
and might be easier to get.
Note that element14 stocks the
XGLC and XJLC versions of those chip
inductors, and they would be fine in
this application.
Yet another version of
the R80 Receiver kit
I refer to the review of the R80
Receiver kit in the November 2021
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/15101).
I have built this unit but am having
problems with the modifications on
page 43. The BC548 emitter is connected to pin 9 of the display PCB
plug (GND), while the collector is
connected to the junction of R18 and
D3, not the junction of D2 and CP5
as shown.
The BC548 is mounted with the flat
towards the board, not away from it as
shown in the article. I have checked
for errata in later editions but could
find nothing on this. Was this a later
modification? (J. P., via email)
● Andrew Woodfield replies: your kit
appears to be an earlier (!) version than
the one we reviewed, most likely V6
(the review was of V7). Most readers
who reported discrepancies between
their kits and our review had later versions of the kit.
We aren’t sure if you need to make
the squelch modifications to the V6 kit.
It may help, but it will have to be done
differently as the design is obviously
not the same. It would help if you had
a circuit for your version of the kit to
compare to the one for V7 posted on
the Silicon Chip website (siliconchip.
au/Shop/6/5950).
Flight level is based on
pressure, not altitude
I am reading the “Advanced GPS
Computer” by Tim Blythman (June &
July 2021; siliconchip.au/Series/366),
and I hope you’ll indulge me in clearing up an uncertainty. The Computer
can show flight levels (FL) as well as
altitude, but I missed seeing how barometric pressure is measured (which is
necessary to convert altitude to FL).
Many thanks for pointing this out to
me; I hope I haven’t missed the obvious. (G. M., aircraft museum curator,
London, UK).
● The Advanced GPS Computer uses
the altitude data from the GPS receiver
102
Silicon Chip
module, so it does not calculate an
altitude or flight level based on barometric pressure. So it is more correct
to say that it can display the altitude
in the same units as flight level, but
does not display a true flight level
based on pressure.
We’re considering an update to the
project which adds a barometric pressure sensor like the BMP280 so that it
can show the proper flight level.
Design for density
altitude meter wanted
Have you published a design for
a density altitude meter? (L. B., via
email)
● We have not, but we have published
hardware designs that could be used as
a density altitude meter with some relatively simple changes to the software.
For example, the Touchscreen Altimeter and Weather Station (December
2017; siliconchip.au/Article/10898).
It has an onboard barometric pressure sensor and temperature sensor.
Those provide the two values that you
need to compute the density altitude.
The BASIC software is available online
(siliconchip.au/Shop/?article=10898),
so it should be relatively simple to
modify the software to calculate and
show the density altitude, then upload
that to the BackPack.
Transducer power for
Ultrasonic Cleaner
I am interested in building the
“Large Ultrasonic Cleaner” featured
in the August 2010 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/244) but with some
modifications.
First of all, I am wondering if it’s
possible to use a 35W transducer
instead of 50W as the larger unit is
somewhat hard to get at the moment,
and the smaller unit can be had for a
very good price on sale. If so, I imagine that some changes may need to
be made to the drive circuit to avoid
over-driving the transducer.
Secondly, to compensate for the
lower-power transducer, I was thinking of running two in parallel. I imagine this achieved not by simply running both transducers from one circuit,
but by duplicating the drive circuitry
(Mosfets and transformer), running
both sets from one microcontroller.
Is that feasible? Or would two transducers on the same cleaning tank
Australia's electronics magazine
interact negatively with each other?
(A. C., Auckland, NZ)
● You can use the 35W transducer at a
reduced power level. We don’t recommend using more than one transducer,
even if the driver section is duplicated.
That’s because each transducer needs
to operate at the correct frequency for
the selected output power. Individual
transducers will have slightly different
resonances, so one transducer will be
delivering the majority of the power
output if two are used.
Note that we published a revised
version of that project in September
& October 2020 (High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner, siliconchip.com.au/
Series/350). Altronics sell a kit for the
newer design, Cat K6022.
BWD power supply
circuit diagram wanted
In the Serviceman’s log column in
November 2010, you detailed a repair
to a BWD 207B power supply and mentioned that you had obtained several
versions of the service manual. I have
tried various methods to try and obtain
a service manual for this power supply but to no avail. Are those manuals
available on your website, and if so,
where? (P. A. S., via email)
● We haven’t uploaded the BWD 207B
manual or circuits to our website but
we can supply them upon request.
2010 DAB+ Tuner has
limitations
I have had this DAB+/FM Tuner
(October-December 2010; siliconchip.
au/Series/13) running for many years
now (I built it from the Jaycar kit) without any problems.
The ABC has recently updated
(reassigned bandwidth) to their DAB+
transmissions. They recommended
re-scanning the stations, so I did, but
the scan did not complete.
I turned off the unit and found that it
only found 62 stations of the 72 available in Melbourne. I did this at least
three times with the same result each
time. I did notice that some but not
all of the ABC stations were scanned.
Once, it left out ABC Melbourne.
I have the latest firmware of 7.71. Do
you know why it is not picking up all
the channels? (A. L., Watsonia, Vic)
● It turns out that the 2010 DAB+/
FM Tuner firmware has a hard-coded
continued on page 104
siliconchip.com.au
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Silicon Chip magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
August 2022 103
limit of 64 stations in total that it can
store. We are unsure of the reason for
this limitation as the designer of that
project left Silicon Chip many years
ago. We assume it is due to the limited amount of flash memory or RAM
available.
It’s possible that could be changed,
but we no longer have a prototype to
test new firmware, nor are we confident that compiling the source code
with a current compiler will necessarily produce working code without
being able to test it.
Our much more recent Touchscreen DAB+/FM/AM Tuner design
(January-March 2019; siliconchip.au/
Series/330) does not suffer from this
problem. It must have an upper bound
on the number of stations it can tune,
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................43-46
Dave Thompson........................ 103
Digi-Key Electronics...................... 3
element14................................... 11
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................. 13
Jaycar.......................... IFC, 5, 7, 21,
..............................24-25, 77, 79, 99
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 103
LD Electronics........................... 103
LEDsales................................... 103
Microchip Technology.................. 9
Mouser Electronics..................OBC
Ocean Controls............................. 8
SC Pico BackPack.................... 101
but nobody has run into it yet. Also,
the source code is available (it’s written in BASIC), so it could easily be
fixed if such a limitation existed.
While the parts for that project are
somewhat hard to come by, we do
have a handful of Si4689 ICs on hand
for anyone who wishes to build one,
and the PCB, Explore 100 kit and other
associated parts are still available – see
siliconchip.au/Shop/?article=11369
Consider, though, that this newer
project requires some fairly small
SMDs to be soldered. But we think
that is a better situation than the old
tuner, which needed a module that
wasn’t available to purchase (it only
came as part of the now-discontinued
Jaycar kit).
Replacement pot for
Class-A amp
My 20W Class-A amplifier (MaySeptember 2007; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/58) is in need of a new volume
pot as it has gone all scratchy.
It is an Alpha dual-gang 20kW log
motorised pot, previously sold by
Altronics as Cat R2000 but no longer
available. Do you know of a suitable
replacement? Is it possible to retrofit
one from another brand? (N. M., Sunbury, Vic)
● We suggest you try spraying some
contact cleaner into the wiper assemblies first as that might resolve your
scratchiness with much less expense
and hassle than replacing the pot
(eg, try Jaycar Cat NA1012). If you do
need to replace it, the pot value is not
so critical (eg, you could use a 10kW
or even 5kW dual-gang log pot). The
main concern is it fitting on the existing preamp PCB.
Bourns Pro Audio PRM162-K420K103A1 is a 10kW dual gang logarithmic
pot with dimensions very similar to
the Alpha unit Altronics sold. The PCB
SC SMD Test Tweezers.............. 63
Silicon Chip Shop.................70-71
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 23
Silvertone...................................... 6
The Loudspeaker Kit.com.......... 10
Tronixlabs.................................. 103
Wagner Electronics..................... 73
104
Silicon Chip
Errata and Next Issue
Silicon Chip Binders................ 103
probably would need some slight modifications to make it fit (due to slightly
different motor mounting posts) but
we think it would not be too hard to
retrofit. Unfortunately, it is somewhat
hard to find anyone with this in stock.
Verical list 142 in stock at the time
of writing and we have purchased
from them before, so we think that is
a reasonable option (siliconchip.au/
link/abdh).
Master Electronics also say they
have 147 in stock but we have no experience with them – see siliconchip.au/
link/abdi
Stereo Compressor kit
wanted
Is the Stereo Compressor kit still
available? It used to be sold by Jaycar,
but they no longer supply it; I hope
you can help. (A. B., Christchurch, NZ)
● We designed two different Stereo
Compressors that were made as Jaycar
kits, one in June 2000 (siliconchip.au/
Article/4328; Jaycar Cat KC5291) and
one in January 2012 (siliconchip.au/
Article/809; Jaycar Cat KC5507). Jaycar makes their kits based on our articles; we do not make them for Jaycar.
It does look like both Jaycar kits are
no longer available.
You might be able to get a kit for the
January 2012 design from Altronics
(Cat K5526). It is still listed on their
website; it looks like they are very low
on stock, but they have kits in a few
stores. Perhaps if you contact them,
they can get one back to their warehouse and deliver it to you.
Failing that, we can supply PCBs
and panels for the January 2012 design,
see siliconchip.au/Shop/?article=809
You would need to get the rest of
the parts yourself. It looks like they
are still available; the critical part is
the SA571 IC (in DIP), and they are for
sale on eBay.
SC
Spectral Sound MIDI Synthesiser, June 2022: the orientation of diode D2
in Fig.9 is incorrect. Install it with the cathode stripe facing to the right, as
shown on the PCB silkscreen.
Digital FX (Effects) Pedal, April & May 2021: Fig.2 in the April issue
shows incorrect connections for op amp IC3b. Its pins 5 & 6 are swapped.
Pin 6 (−) should be at the top, connected to the 4.7μF capacitors, while pin
5 (+) should be at the bottom, connected to Vcc ÷ 2. The PCB has the right
connections.
Next Issue: the September 2022 issue is due on sale in newsagents by
Monday, August 29th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in
Australia between August 29th and September 16th.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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