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Items relevant to "Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor":
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DECEMBER 2022
ISSN 1030-2662
12
The VERY BEST DIY Projects!
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31 | Dual-channel Breadboard PSU
Take the mess out of prototyping new designs
48 | Jaycar QC1938 Oscilloscope
Reviewing a 2-channel, 100MHz digital scope
62 | Active Monitor Speakers, Part 2
Building the amplifiers and Active Crossover
76 | nRF5340 DK Development Board
An ARM-based module for wireless communication
81 | Digital Boost Regulator
Generate an adjustable voltage while multi-tasking
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 1
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Contents
Vol.35, No.12
December 2022
14 James Webb Space Telescope
The James Webb Space Telescope (JWST) is the newest and most
advanced telescope yet. It was launched on December 25th, 2021 with the
goal of gathering information on the universe.
By Dr David Maddison
Space exploration feature
48 Jaycar QC1938 Oscilloscope
Jaycar’s QC1938 two-channel, 100MHz digital oscilloscope was released
just a few months ago, with many handy features at a low cost.
By Tim Blythman
Test equipment review
76 nRF5340 DK Development Board
Pages 31 & 40
Dual-channel
Power Supply for
BREADBOARDS
dual- channel oscilloscope
Jaycar QC1938
Nordic Semiconductor’s nRF5340 DK is a development board with a dualcore ARM chip. It’s Arduino-compatible and is a good starting point for
designing products with Bluetooth, NFC or other wireless communications.
By Tim Blythman
Microcontroller module review
31 Dual-channel Breadboard PSU
This power supply is designed to help you take the mess out when
prototyping new designs on a breadboard. It plugs straight into a
breadboard’s power rails and has two adjustable current-limited outputs.
By Tim Blythman
Power supply project
Page 48
Page 62
40 Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor
Combine the Breadboard PSU from above with this Display Adaptor to show
lots of handy data, such as the set and actual voltages and currents. It even
includes extra voltmeter and ammeter channels for analysis.
By Tim Blythman
Power supply project
62 Active Monitor Speakers, Part 2
This month, we cover how to build the power supply, prepare the chassis
and arrange the wiring for the Active Crossover Amplifier. Plus, there’s a
section to help troubleshoot most problems that could occur.
By Phil Prosser
Audio project
81 Digital Boost Regulator
The multi-tasking Digital Boost Regulator can generate an adjustable
voltage from 5V to 20V without a dedicated boost chip. This is possible due
to its use of a PIC16F1846 microcontroller.
By Tim Blythman
Microcontroller project
Active Monitor Speakers
with optional subwoofer
Digital Boost
Regulator
Page 81
2
Editorial Viewpoint
88
Online Shop
107
Ask Silicon Chip
4
Mailbag
90
Circuit Notebook
111
Market Centre
112
Advertising Index
112
Notes & Errata
47
Subscriptions
54
Serviceman’s Log
94
1. mmPi add-on for Raspberry Pi
2. Two different positive DC outputs
from a centre-tapped transformer
3. Traverser for model railway
Vintage Television
RCA 621TS TV by Dr. Hugo Holden
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Circuit labelling consistency
There are many valid, logical schemes for labelling
components on circuit diagrams and PCBs, but we need
to stick to one system. It would be very confusing for
different designs in the same issue (or subsequent issues)
to use the same letters for different purposes.
As Silicon Chip was started by ex-EA staff, the labelling
scheme we use is derived from that of EA but with changes
that they considered improvements. For example, in EA,
transistors were generally labelled as “TR” followed by a
number, but we use “Q” followed by a number. That might only save one letter,
but any space saved is helpful on a cluttered circuit or PCB.
The problem we have is that we often receive circuit submissions from
contributors that use different schemes. Not only are their schemes different
from ours, but they are also different from each other. There are many pitfalls in
changing their labels to match ours, such as the possibility for mistakes to creep in.
It is also difficult for us to change the silkscreen labelling on submitted PCBs
because we don’t necessarily have the required software. We can modify files that
can be opened by Altium Designer or Eagle (and possibly other free packages like
KiCad). But it is time-consuming to modify PCB files produced by other packages.
Due to this, I would like to ask anyone considering sending us a circuit or design
to either use the same scheme we do, or modify your ECAD files before submitting
them to match our scheme. That way, we minimise the chance of errors and can
ensure that readers and constructors can figure out which components are which.
It is not unknown for the labels on PCBs we supply to have mismatches with
the information published for this reason. At times, that has caused considerable
confusion, so I’m hoping we can avoid that in future.
I can’t list our entire scheme here (you can always e-mail us and ask) but briefly,
here are the common designator prefixes we use:
Resistor: R
Capacitor: C
Inductor: L
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Editorial Viewpoint
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Test point: TP
Postage cost increase
We have been charging the same $10 per order for postage and packing in our
Online Shop for around 13 years (since 2009). The costs of postage, packing and
labour have all increased significantly since then (by around 30%). So, from
January 1st 2023, our P&P prices will be:
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Cover image: NGC 3324 inside Carina Nebula
NASA, ESA, CSA and STScl
Australia's electronics magazine
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your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
RIP Rodney Champness
My husband, Rodney Champness, passed away on the
22nd of October, 2022. He loved writing articles on Vintage Radio for your magazine. He had articles published
in most of your issues from April 1998 until March 2013,
with a few before and after.
Lynn Champness, Mooroopna, Vic.
Response to Editorial on close-up vision
I read with interest your Editorial in the November
issue. In my career, I went from working on the bench to
management and found, as you did, too long at the computer changed my vision. As I aged, the lenses in my eyes
became cloudy and I had to have them replaced.
As the new lenses have a fixed focal length that don’t
change with the eye muscles, I was given a choice between
three types. The first was focused for reading, the second
for watching television and the last for long distances. I
selected the second as I wouldn’t need to wear glasses
around the house.
This result is that I now have three pairs of glasses:
one for close work, a second for the computer and one
for long distance. I still find that if I work too long at the
computer, my vision changes, so I can only conclude that
it is the brain that causes this change.
Les Kerr, Ashby, NSW.
Caution regarding PCB repair with epoxy
I saw the contribution from N.B., in Taylors Lakes in
Serviceman’s Log, August 2022, regarding the repair of
a PCB that had been badly burnt, I guess due to a faulty
relay. I was quite impressed with the repair and thought
he did an excellent job. However, at the risk of sounding like Chicken Little, I feel obliged to point out a couple of things:
1. That board is UL listed (the RU mark can be clearly
seen) and is made from 94V-0 material (also clearly
marked). 94V-0 is made to be fire resistant; I believe it is
expected to self-extinguish a fire. I’m not sure your garden variety Araldite would pass this test. Looking at the
PCB before the repair, you can see why the PCB has to be
rated like this – fire is a real possibility.
2. Relay contacts can generate a fair amount of heat
even when not faulty – in my experience, more than you
expect. The PCB copper is used to dissipate heat from the
contacts – the repair that was made is likely poorer than
the original PCB in this regard. An insulated wire is much
worse as a heatsink than a broad, exposed copper track
The upshot is that the relay may fail again sooner than
expected and, scarily, cause a fire.
4
Silicon Chip
Finally, you sometimes mention SMD resistor codes
in your articles; eg, a 1kW resistor might be marked 102
or 1001. But there is another common method of resistor
marking I’ve come across. This ‘standard’ uses two digits and a letter; Google “EIA-96”. I used to see it quite a
lot – not so much these days, but working from home, I
don’t see as many completed PCBs.
The only one I remember is “01C” = 10kW.
David Timmins, Sylvania, NSW.
Praise for GPS Analog Clock Driver
I recently built the GPS Analog Clock Driver (September 2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15466), and it switched
over to daylight saving time perfectly. I dismantled the
movement of an old clock that I had in my workshop but
found that it was very difficult to reassemble. Instead, I
purchased a simpler clock movement from Jaycar, which
proved to be much easier to incorporate into the project.
This was my first project that involved surface mount
components and, while I found it challenging, I was able
to solder those components without too much trouble.
Congratulations on publishing this very useful project.
Tony Verberne, Ivanhoe East, Vic.
USB problem with GPS Clock Driver solved
I recently purchased from the GPS Clock Driver kits from
Silicon Chip (Cat SC6472). Everything works exactly as
per the article, apart from being able to connect it to my
computer via the USB cable. Both of my computers are
running Windows 10. When I plugged in the USB cable, I
got a notification that the device was not recognised, and it
showed up in Device Manager as an unrecognised device.
I tried the following to rectify the problem:
• Updating the drivers
• Changing the USB cable
• Using a different computer
I finally found the problem, and yes, it was my fault! I
managed to get a very small solder bridge between pins
2 and 3 on the USB socket. A dab of flux and a hot iron
fixed the problem immediately.
Alfred Hirzel, Auckland, NZ.
Disposing of unwanted equipment via ARNSW
Firstly, keep up the good work producing an excellent
magazine; I look forward to reading each issue.
I have seen a couple of letters to the editor about disposing of equipment as people are downsizing. I am the
equipment sales contact for Amateur Radio NSW. Part
of the club’s activities is to hold a sales event every two
months.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
There are three ways that the club can help with equipment disposal. One is for the owner to sell directly on
the day to 50 to 80 buyers, the club can sell equipment
for a small commission, or equipment can be donated to
the club.
The type of equipment the club sells includes amateur
radio equipment, communications equipment (receivers
and transceivers), test equipment, military electronics
and vintage domestic radios. Components and valves are
included. We do not handle computer equipment (PCs,
laptops, monitors etc), domestic electronics such as TVs
and audio equipment, or large/heavy equipment.
For further information, including contact details,
please visit the club’s website at arnsw.org.au
Mark Blackmore, Baulkham Hills, NSW.
Uploading WiFi Load firmware when OTA fails
I have had some difficulty uploading software to the
control board for the WiFi DC Load project (September &
October 2022; siliconchip.au/Series/388). Following the
article’s instructions, I can upload the file “DC_Load_3-5.
ino.bin” over-the-air (OTA), and the application starts up
and functions as it should, detecting all hardware and
connecting to my WiFi.
However, when I disconnect and reconnect power to the
ESP32 board, it reverts to running the OTAWebUpdater
application, and the DC Load software seems to have vanished. This process is 100% repeatable.
I tried the same uploading process to a different ESP32
board with the same outcome. I also tried two different
versions of the Arduino IDE, 1.8.19 and 2.0.0. No matter
what I did, I could not get the DC_Load program to stick
in the ESP32 board when uploading via OTA. However,
uploading via the serial port worked.
Richard Palmer helped me compile the code myself in
the Arduino IDE so I could directly upload it to the ESP32
board. It is now correctly retained in the ESP32 module.
In case anyone else runs into the same problem, I thought
I’d provide some advice on doing that. The main difficulty
is in downloading and installing all the required libraries
to build the code. They are:
• Adafruit GFX (1.11.13)
• Arduino_GFX (1.3.0)
• XPT2046_Touchscreen (1.4.0)
• ArduinoJson (6.19.4)
• ESP32Encoder (V0.9.1)
• Button2 (2.0.3)
• https://github.com/me-no-dev/ESPAsyncWebServer
• https://github.com/me-no-dev/AsyncTCP
• Adafruit_ILI9488 – modified from Adafruit_ILI9341
library by Richard Palmer
Based on what Richard told me, the problem might be
that different ESP32 modules have different memory sizes,
and mine possibly doesn’t have enough memory to flash
the large DC Load program via the OTA method. But it
seems it can be flashed via USB using the Arduino IDE.
Erwin Bejsta, Wodonga, Vic.
Recollections of an unusual vintage ohmmeter
The Wide Range Ohmmeter (August & September
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6
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
2022; siliconchip.au/Series/384) reminded me of where
I first saw the Kelvin connection. In the early 1960s, my
employer bought a low-ohms meter from an English manufacturer, which used this connection in two shielded wire
leads, with the outer braid for the supply current connections and the inner wires for the voltmeter connections.
The principle used was slightly different from that of
your project in that a low, constant voltage source (unregulated) was used, via a switched range of calibrating resistances. The scale on the analog meter indicated infinity at
full scale and zero at the left-hand end; the meter showed
half-scale when the resistance under test was equal to the
internal calibrating resistance.
This scaling was the reverse of that used in common
analog meter resistance scales, which have zero at the
right and infinity at the left.
At that time, the availability of mainly germanium transistors made it impractical to use a DC-coupled amplifier.
So the designers opted for AC-coupling in the amplifier,
with its input and output connected to an optical synchronous modulator/demodulator. The latter comprised
light-dependent resistors illuminated by an incandescent lamp, with the light “chopped” by a motor-driven
slotted disc.
As I recall, the amplifier itself consisted of three balanced stages of germanium transistors, with appropriate
AC and DC feedback for stability, capacitively coupled at
input and output. A manual control was used to calibrate
the meter to full scale with the test leads open before taking a measurement.
For convenience, the meter scale was calibrated with
“10” at centre scale, thus avoiding the need for decimal
points at the low end of the scale. The unit gave satisfactorily accurate readings from “1” to “100” on each range,
although I cannot remember what the ranges were, most
likely ×1/100 to ×100.
Greg Mayman, Sturt, SA.
The satisfaction gained from repairing old hifi gear
I spent my whole working life in the electronics industry, starting my business at age 22 in 1967 and running
it for 40 years. It was predominately repairing television
receivers and antennae, but also audio and associated
gear. The turntables were almost all Garrard or BSR with
the occasional Dual, all with ceramic cartridges.
Now that I have ‘retired’, I have found a new activity
that gives me immense satisfaction. A friend has a shop
selling vinyl records, but to go with that, he also sells
vintage amplifiers, speakers and high-quality turntables,
with the very best magnetic cartridges, mainly from the
seventies and eighties.
I service and repair these before they reach the shop.
I regularly see top brands that my customers in the old
days could never afford. I have gained much respect for
the design effort put into this wonderful gear. Brands like
Marantz, Technics, NAD, Quad, Sansui, Yamaha, Thorens
etc, plus a few that are entirely new to me.
Most of these are non-operational when I receive them,
and I must say that bringing them back to fully working
condition is a really nice feeling.
It is pretty easy to download service manuals for free
for nearly all the old gear. Repairing the mechanism for
some of the turntables requires considerable mechanical
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 7
skill, and of course, the amplifiers require good to excellent electronic skills as well. Sometimes we do cosmetics,
respraying and cleaning. The shop owner is an expert in
renovating the timber grain.
Manuals can be downloaded from websites like manualslib, hifiengine, vintageshifi etc. Rubber belts can be
ordered by dimensions rather than by brand and model.
While I do get paid for this, I have been surprised at the
pleasure gained in turning great but old gear from landfill
fodder to the pride of place in someone’s lounge room.
A lot of the gear is nearly fifty years old and, when
repaired, works so well, sounds so nice and should run
for another twenty years.
Brian Healy, Mangerton, NSW.
Circuit junctions should not be ambiguous
I want to add a few comments about Brian Playne, who
had difficulty reading four-wire junctions on a circuit diagram (Mailbag, August 2022, page 4).
AS/NZS 1102.103:1997 Part 103 “Graphical symbols
for electrotechnical documentation, conductors and connecting devices” refers to this problem. It states that this
form 2 (03-02-05), referred to by the reader, shall only be
used if required by layout considerations.
The preferred form is Form 1 (03-02-04) double junction of conductors where the conductors are displaced
and not cross over. As far as I know, the dots for the junctions are optional. There are a couple of variations to the
double-junction method. One is as per the standard with
two “T” junctions displaced. The other is where the two
Ts are displaced and angled at the tip of the main joining conductor.
This is what I was taught at RMIT. The other reason for
not using the crossover dot was because it could lead to
an inadvertent blob of ink on the crossover point, which
would look like a joint when none was intended. Newer
inks may not have this problem, but that was the reason
given when I learnt schematic drawing.
Hopefully, that helps your readers in understanding
schematic drawings and how they should be for clarity,
so mistakes are reduced when reading them.
Wolf-Dieter Kuenne, Bayswater, Vic.
Comment: the fact that we use a ‘skip over’ symbol when
wires cross and do not join should mean that even if a
blob of ink was to somehow land there (and we don’t recall
that happening any time in the last couple of decades), it
should still be clear that there is no junction there.
Appreciation for designs using BASCOM
I enjoyed the Circuit Notebook articles and software by
Mahmood Alimohammadi back in October & December
2016. I use BASCOM and find it an excellent language
for non-professionals. Thanks for providing the software
downloads as I learned a lot from viewing his code. I
would appreciate any further BASCOM articles.
Graham Vayro, Logan Village, Qld.
Comment: you might want to look at the LC Meter Mk3
(November 2022), Silicon Labs FM/AM/SW Digital Radio
(July 2021), AM/FM/SW Single-Chip Radio (January 2021),
Shirt Pocket DDS Oscillator (September 2020) and plenty
GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock
with long battery life
➡ Convert an ordinary wall clock into a highlyaccurate time keeping device (within
seconds).
➡ Nearly eight years of battery life with a
pair of C cells!
➡ Automatically adjusts for daylight saving
time.
➡ Track time with a VK2828U7G5LF GPS or D1
Mini WiFi module (select one as an option
with the kit; D1 Mini requires programming).
➡ Learn how to build it from the article in the
September 2022 issue of Silicon Chip (siliconchip.
au/Article/15466). Check out the article in the
November 2022 issue for how to use the D1 Mini WiFi
module with the Driver (siliconchip.au/Article/15550).
Complete kit available from $55 + postage (batteries & clock not included)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6472 – Catalog SC6472
8
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
more articles we published that utilise BASCOM code.
See the full list (20 in total) at siliconchip.au/link/abhn
Distributed vs concentrated solar power
Thank you for the last few issues of Silicon Chip magazine. They are always worth reading.
Earlier this year, I wrote that I believed that home-
generated solar power could not be transmitted to the
high voltage distribution networks via the distribution
transformers. I still believe that I am correct.
However, if one looks at power distribution differently,
the lack of load caused by the home generation is ‘transmitted’ to the high voltage networks by reduced demand
on the large power generators. Of course, this means more
power is available to other low-voltage networks. Effectively, power is being transmitted from one low-voltage
network to another.
Also, power is effectively transferred between phases.
Sometimes, one needs to stand on one’s head to see the
reality of a situation.
I am not a fan of home solar power generation and
believe that large commercial solar farms are the correct
way to access the sun’s power. According to the following
government website, there is a total of more than 11GW
of panels on household roofs:
https://arena.gov.au/renewable-energy/solar/
However, the real-time power generation figures on the
AEMO website show the home-generated power to be
much less than that. Even allowing for clouds and dirty
panels etc, home solar is significantly below its expected
contribution to the grid. The figures justify my belief that
home solar is a bad policy in general.
Full utilisation of home solar power is only possible
when there is sufficiently high demand on the local low
voltage network. Commercial solar farms are far better
since they feed their power into the high voltage network,
full utilisation can be achieved easily, and the investment is justified.
I am a supporter of pumped hydro energy storage for
electricity grids and was pleasantly surprised when I discovered the amount of activity for pumped hydro schemes.
I was most surprised when I saw the number of pumped
hydro projects in China. For a nation that can manufacture
large quantities of batteries, the Chinese chose pumped
hydro for grid power storage. See: https://w.wiki/5m6D
Unfortunately, I do not see much activity in Australia,
probably because large pumped hydro schemes require
huge amounts of money and take a long time to build.
However, there are some schemes planned. One that I
like very much is the small 1.5MW scheme in Western
Australia. It should be finished and running very quickly:
siliconchip.au/link/abh2
Finally, I found a document that lists possible Australian pumped hydro sites (siliconchip.au/link/abh3).
George Ramsay, Holland Park, Qld.
Advances in storage technology
Geoff Chapman wrote about the shrinking size of storage space. Consider the advances with micro SD cards. It
is now possible to get a 1TB micro SD card (perhaps 2TB
by the time I finish writing this). That little card can hold
about 200 HD movies or maybe a couple of thousand in
...continued on page 12
siliconchip.com.au
Helping to put you in Control
1-Wire carbon dioxide sensor
Monitor the fresh air level in a room or
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Din rail 4-20mA adjustable single generator
Powered by 230VAC the output signal is an
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LabJack T7 Data Acquisition Module
Is a USB/Ethernet based multifunction
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It features high data acquisition rates
together with a high resolution ADC.
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Price: $902.00 ea
For Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9708 2390
oceancontrols.com.au
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 9
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VHS tape quality and fits in the space occupied by the
record protect tab of a VHS tape. Simply amazing.
Horst Leykam, Dee Why, NSW.
Looking for Altium ECAD software reviews
Sometime in the recent past, you published an article
about the schematic capture and PCB layout software that
you use at Silicon Chip. It was a good article, but I can’t
remember the name of it now, although I think there was
mention of it being a descendant of Protel (which I used
many years ago).
Having the need now to employ some software of that
ilk, I searched for your article, using the features index
on your website, but cannot find it.
I’d also like to say that you and your team are doing an
excellent job! Having been involved in electronics since
before I left high school in the early 1970s. I found Leo’s
series on the History of Silicon Chip particularly interesting (August-September 2022; siliconchip.au/Series/385).
It filled in a lot of background information, which was
satisfying.
Due to my interest, magazines were a great source of
information – grist for the mill as it were – so all the
previous publications mentioned were/are familiar to
me, including Silicon Chip which I have read from the
beginning.
It is, I suppose, no surprise that Silicon Chip has survived when all others have fallen by the wayside, given
the enthusiasm and commitment of Leo and the team –
continuing through to the present – working on “your”
500
magazine (which I like to think of in a somewhat proud
Aussie way as “our” magazine as well).
The fact that you have taken on stewardship of the
archives of all your predecessors is commendable in no
small way. I could go on with hackneyed sayings like
“keep up the good work” etc but suffice it to say that your
efforts are greatly appreciated, and I thank you.
Russell Campbell, Leichhardt, NSW.
Response: We have published several articles that you
could be referring to. It is likely one of the following:
• June 2022: Altium Designer 22 review by Tim Blythman (siliconchip.au/Article/15348)
• January 2021: Altium 365 and Altium Designer 21
review by Tim Blythman (siliconchip.au/Article/14705)
• December 2019: The new Altium Designer 20 review
by Tim Blythman (siliconchip.au/Article/12176)
• April 2019: Altium Designer 19 review by Tim Blythman (siliconchip.au/Article/11527)
• January 2019: “CircuitMaker” free PCB software
review by Tim Blythman (siliconchip.au/Article/11378)
• August 2018: Altium Designer 18 review by Nicholas Vinen (siliconchip.au/Article/11189)
The mail delivery blues
You are not alone in the mail saga. I recently sent a normal envelope via airmail to the city of Melbourne from
the south island of New Zealand that took 49 days to be
delivered! This is totally absurd and a courier was recommended instead, for $38 instead of $3.
The excuse is COVID-19 or a lack of staff; the latter
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SC6019 is a set of the critical parts needed to build one 500W Amplifier module (PCB sold separately; SC6367);
see the parts list on the website for what’s included. Most other parts can be purchased from Jaycar or Altronics.
Read the articles in the April – May 2022 issues of Silicon Chip: siliconchip.com.au/Series/380
12
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
seems more likely. Attitudes have certainly changed in
the last few years, and nobody seems to care anymore.
Except those of us who read Silicon Chip, for which libraries are often the most reliable option. They will eventually arrive...
Karen Wardell, Nelson, New Zealand.
An idea for a pill reminder project
Thanks for the magazine. I am glad you can keep it going
– it is pretty well an Australian tradition now.
I have a simple project idea, possibly based on the Garbage & Recycling Reminder (January 2013; siliconchip.
au/Article/1315).
This has come about as a function of getting older and
the necessity to take tablets regularly – every morning/
night/etc. Initially, I just remembered (and forgot) as it was
all new to me. Then I set my phone alarm, but often I was
not near the tablets when the alarm went off; I stopped
the alarm and forgot to take them!
The tablets are put in a clear plastic flip-lid box weekly
by the day and left on the kitchen bench. Invariably there
is a distraction, and oops, forgotten again.
A flashing LED timer built into a similar tablet box
($2.00 from a dollar shop) with an LED for each day and
a reset button would probably solve the problem, as did
the garbage reminder that we have been using since inception; we now always get it right.
Peter Cave, Ormiston, Qld.
Comment: that is a great idea. However, commercially
available reminders would likely be far cheaper than
building one. We would find it difficult to produce such
a device that matched the commercial ones for price and
that they have convenient pill holders and easy programming. Our version would have to use a commercial pill
holder that may not suit your needs. For example, see
www.tabtimer.com.au/Electronic-Pill-Boxes
Software as a disservice
I just read the May 2022 Editorial by Nicholas and had
to comment. As a long-time CorelDraw user, and on their
annual subscription since 2017, I am in the same boat.
Their value proposition was based on their cost/performance ratio compared to other solutions. My yearly cost
for the CorelDraw Graphics Suite has been around $227,
so $599 per year will not fly!
The FOSS (free/open-source software) alternatives are
great but have limited adoption in our circles where native
formats from Adobe or Corel are preferred.
At our hourly rate, the Creative Cloud All Apps subscription is less than two hours of work per user more
expensive! We would get better integration and a much
larger toolset by migrating to the Adobe offerings.
Having said that, their products are not known for being
rock solid and stable either, which has been the main barrier to our migration to date when seen with their (previously) higher cost in context.
Chris Schlebusch, Brisbane, Qld.
Comments: InDesign is close to ideal for our work producing the magazine, so we’re somewhat beholden to
Adobe. As expensive as their Creative Suite subscription
is, it is worth it for InDesign alone. It’s harder to say that
about the Corel suite as there are many more alternatives
to their products.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 13
BY D R DAVID MADDISON
Image source: www.flickr.com/photos/nasawebbtelescope/37988427785/
The James Webb Space Telescope (JWST) is the newest and most advanced space
telescope. Launched on December 25th, 2021 on an Ariane 5 rocket from
French Guiana, it officially entered service on July 12th, 2022. While much
has been said and written about it in the press, this article will concentrate
on the amazing technology behind it.
T
he James Webb Space Telescope
has the largest mirror of any telescope launched into space. It can
see ‘back in time’ right up to the time
of the first star and galaxy formation
after the Big Bang (the presumed beginning of the universe).
It also has more light gathering ability than any other space telescope,
allowing it to see very faint objects. It
can see in the infrared, meaning it can
image objects that are not visible using
the visible light spectrum.
The JWST mission objectives are
to explore the early universe, examine the evolution of galaxies over
time, examine the star life cycle and
look for and examine other planets.
That includes our own minor planets,
14
Silicon Chip
Kuiper Belt objects and the suspected
Planet Nine in our solar system.
The JWST project is led by NASA
in collaboration with the European
Space Agency (ESA) and the Canadian Space Agency (CSA). Their academic and industry partners include
Who was James Webb?
The telescope was named after
James E. Webb, NASA’s second
director, from 1961
to 1968. He oversaw
the Mercury, Gemini
and Apollo missions
with a total of 75
launches.
Image source: NASA
Australia's electronics magazine
the University of Arizona, Ball Aerospace, L3Harris Technologies, Lockheed Martin, Northrop Grumman and
The Space Telescope Science Institute (see https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/
meetTheTeam/team.html).
Design started in 1996, and in 1999,
there was an expectation of a US$1
billion cost and a 2007 launch. The
JWST has cost NASA US$9.7 billion
($14.1 billion) over the last 24 years,
the ESA €700 million (A$1.02 billion)
and the CSA C$200 million (A$224
million).
JWST vs Hubble
The JWST is a successor to the Hubble Space Telescope (HST), which
entered service on May 20th, 1990 and
siliconchip.com.au
is still in operation today. However,
the JWST does not replace the HST.
Hubble has an uncertain remaining
lifetime partly because NASA’s Space
Shuttle fleet was retired in 2011, so
there is no longer any way to service
it. Despite that, it will be kept in service as long as possible.
A fundamental difference between
the JWST and the HST is the size of
the primary mirror. The HST has a
2.4m diameter mirror while JWST’s is
6.5m in diameter (see Fig.1). They are
also designed to image different light
wavelength ranges (Fig.2).
The HST has an effective light gathering area of 4m2 and the JWST 25m2,
so the JWST has 6.25 times the light
gathering capability of the HST.
The HST was designed for the visible and ultraviolet part of the light
spectrum, plus some infrared, while
the JWST is designed to work mainly
in the infrared. All objects with a temperature above absolute zero (-273°C)
emit infrared radiation, making them
visible to JWST as long as they give
off enough infrared light.
Specifically, HST images wavelengths of 100nm to 800nm with some
parts of the infrared spectrum from
0.8μm (800nm) to 2.5μm, while the
JWST images from 0.6μm to 28μm.
The infrared spectrum extends from
0.75μm to a few hundred microns, so
the JWST works mainly in that area
with a small capability in the visible
range from 600-750nm (orange is 590
to 620nm and red is 620 to 750nm).
As infrared radiation comes from
all objects, it is essential to keep the
JWST as cool as possible. Hence its
vast multi-layer sunshield, its remote
orbit away from the Earth and the
Moon and onboard cooling systems.
It must be kept below -223°C to keep
it from interfering with itself from
self-emission of infrared. The electronics onboard operate at higher temperatures than that, though.
JWST can detect objects 100 times
fainter than the HST. JWST can also
see objects as old as 180 million years
after the Big Bang, compared to 400
million years for HST.
Physical structure
The JWST consists of four major
sections (see Fig.3):
1. The spacecraft bus, which is like
a chassis but also houses the following subsystems:
• Electrical Power Subsystem
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: a size comparison of the
Hubble and JWST primary mirrors.
Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/
content/observatory/ote/mirrors/
Fig.2: a comparison of the light spectrum coverage of the HST & JWST. Source:
www.nasa.gov/content/goddard/hubble-vs-webb-on-the-shoulders-of-a-giant
THE JAMES WEBB SPACE TELESCOPE
Science Instrument Module (ISIM)
Houses all of Webb's cameras and
science instruments
Primary Mirror
18 hexagonal
segments made of
the metal beryllium
and coated with
gold to capture
faint infrared light
Optical Telescope Element (OTE)
Secondary Mirror
Reflects gathered
light from the primary
mirror into the science
instruments
Trim Flap
Helps stabilise
the satellite
Multilayer Sunshield
Five layers shield the
observatory from the light
and heat of the Sun and Earth
Solar Power Array
Always facing the
Sun, panels convert
sunlight into
electricity to power
the observatory
Earth-pointing
Antenna
Sends science
data back to Earth
and receives
commands from
NASA's Deep
Space Network
Star Trackers
Small telescopes that use star
patterns to target the observatory
Spacecraft Bus
Contains most
of the spacecraft
steering and
control machinery,
including the
computer and
reaction wheels
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.3: the crucial parts of the JWST.
Note how the telemetry components,
which must face the Earth, are on the
opposite side of the sun shade from
the telescope. Source: www.nasa.gov/
mission_pages/webb/observatory/
December 2022 15
• Attitude Control Subsystem
• Communication Subsystem
• Command and Data Handling
Subsystem
• Propulsion Subsystem
• Thermal Control Subsystem
2. The optical telescope element
(OTE), comprising the various mirrors.
3. The Integrated Science Instrument Module (ISIM), containing the
cameras and other instruments such as
NIRCam, NIRSpec, NIRISS and MIRI.
4. The Sunshield.
Size and weight
Fig.4: the JWST primary mirror
during assembly. The left & right sides
are folded to fit inside the rocket.
Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/
observatory/ote/mirrors/
Fig.5: a mock-up of the JWST
at Goddard Space Flight Center
in Maryland, USA. Source:
www.flickr.com/photos/
nasawebbtelescope/8518326611
Actuator
JWST Primary Mirror Segment
Strut
When the center actuator moves
up or down, it pulls or pushes
on the six struts, which in turn
correctly curves the mirror.
The actuators are tiny
mechanical motors that
move the mirrors into proper
alignment and curvature with
each other.
Each mirror has seven
actuators – six at the hexapod
ends and one in the center.
Hexapod
Beryllium Substrate
Beryllium was chosen for the mirror's
“skeleton” because it is strong and light,
and will hold its shape in the extreme cold
of space.
The substrate was machined in a honeycomb
pattern to remove excess material and thus
decrease its weight, yet maintain its strength.
When the actuators at the hexapod
ends pull or push on the hexapod,
it pulls or pushes the mirror into
correct alignment with the other
mirrors.
Electronics Box
Every mirror segment has one
electronics box. This box sends
signals to the actuators to steer,
position and control the mirrors.
The electronics boxes are located
within the backplane – the
structure that holds all the mirrors.
Fig.6: the structure of a mirror segment, showing the six mirror actuators plus
the central one to control its curvature. Three beryllium ‘whiffles’ are located
between the hexapod and substrate, measuring 60cm long by 30cm wide, helping
to spread the load. Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/observatory/ote/mirrors/
16
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
According to the ESA, the launch
mass of the observatory was 6200kg,
including the observatory, on-orbit
consumables and launch vehicle adaptor. Its overall height is about 8m. The
705kg mirror is 6.5m in diameter and
the focal length of the telescope optics
is 131.4m.
The mirror
The JWST mirror and the rest of the
spacecraft were far larger than could
be accommodated by the Ariane 5
launch vehicle, so it had to be folded
for launch, as partially shown in Fig.4.
This was particularly challenging for
the mirror, given the high level of precision required.
The mirror comprises 18 hexagonal
gold-coated beryllium metal segments
(Fig.6), each weighing about 20.1kg
and 1.32m across, with a total diameter of 6.6m and a total area of 25m2.
Each mirror segment forms a primary mirror segment assembly
(PMSA), weighing 39.48kg with actuators and other accessories. 48g of gold
is used to coat the mirror, about the
volume of a marble and the mass of
a golf ball. Gold is used because it is
highly reflective in the infrared.
The primary mirror segments each
have six actuators to adjust their
alignment, as does the secondary
mirror. Primary mirrors also have a
central actuator to adjust the mirror
curvature.
Each segment had to be aligned
with an accuracy of 7nm or one ten-
thousandth the thickness of a human
hair.
The actuators can move to positions
as accurate as 1nm or one-millionth
of a millimetre. In use, the mirrors are
realigned every 10 to 14 days. There
are a total of 132 actuators, including 126 for the primary mirror. The
mirrors are ground to a mean surface
siliconchip.com.au
accuracy of better than 25 nanometres.
Diffraction spikes
Most images of stars make them
look like a point of light or a disc with
four or more radial spikes in a specific pattern. These spikes are called
diffraction spikes – see Fig.7. They
are a common phenomenon in reflector telescopes (like the JWST) and are
partly related to the support vanes of
the secondary mirror.
They are also common in any
camera or telescope aperture that is
non-circular, including the iris diaphragm of a traditional camera. In
the case of the JWST, they also derive
from the fact that the primary mirror
is not circular.
They occur because light interacts
and diffracts around the edges of the
aforementioned structures. So the
JWST has two sources of diffraction
spikes. These are designed so that they
do not overlap with each other and
remain as narrow as possible. Fig.8 is
a comparison of the diffraction spikes
between the HST and JWST.
Fig.7: the contribution and shape of diffraction spikes from the combination of
the JWST struts and mirror shape. Source: https://webbtelescope.org/contents/
media/images/01G529MX46J7AFK61GAMSHKSSN
Sunshield
Apart from the mirror, the sunshield
is the most prominent feature with a
deployed size of 21.2m x 14.2m or
about the size of a tennis court – see
Figs.5 & 9. It shields the telescope from
heat and light from the Sun, Earth
and Moon. It is made of thin aluminium and doped-silicon coated plastic
called Kapton E, with five separate
layers each 0.025mm thick.
‘Rip stop’ structures are built into
the shield material to prevent a tear
catastrophically propagating through
an entire layer.
You can check the sunshield and
instrument temperatures at the website: siliconchip.au/link/abgu
At the time of writing, the layer on
the sun side has a temperature of 13°C
and 50°C (measured at two locations),
while the innermost layer has temperatures between -231°C and -236°C. The
five instruments were at temperatures
from -235°C to -267°C.
Fig.8: a comparison of the refractive image spikes between the HST and JWST.
Scientific instruments
The Integrated Science Instrument
Module (ISIM) is behind the main mirror and holds the four scientific instruments plus the Fine Guidance Sensor,
a camera for aligning the observatory.
It also has power supplies, computers
and instrument cooling – see Fig.10.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: the JWST’s sunshield comprises
five layers of Kapton film. Source:
https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/
observatory/sunshield.html
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.10: the ISIM compartment.
Source: www.flickr.com/photos/
nasawebbtelescope/30785200072/
December 2022 17
►
Fig.11: the NIRCam configuration. Source: www.
astro.princeton.edu/~jgreene/ast303/NIRCampocket-guide.pdf
Fig.12: the NIRCam instrument (near-infrared
camera). Source: www.flickr.com/photos/
nasawebbtelescope/albums/72157627248683106
The four scientific instruments are
the Near-Infrared Camera (NIRCam),
Near-Infrared Spectrograph (NIRSpec),
Near-infrared Imager and Slitless
Spectrograph (NIRISS) and MidInfrared Instrument (MIRI)
As their names imply, these all work
in the infrared. See Fig.13 for their specific wavelength ranges. We will go
over each instrument in detail:
NIRCam (0.6-5μm wavelength
range, Figs.11 & 12) is an infrared
camera that has 10 mercury-cadmium-
telluride (HgCdTe) detector arrays,
each with four megapixels (4MP;
2048 × 2048 pixels). It is also used for
“wavefront sensing” to align the mirror segments.
In addition, it has coronographs to
block light from stars with associated
exoplanets (planets outside our solar
system). It operates at -236°C while its
electronics operate at 17°C.
NIRSpec (0.6-5.3μm, Figs.16 & 18)
is a spectrometer that can be used to
analyse the chemical composition of
objects. It has several operating modes,
including the ability to take spectra
of 100 objects simultaneously. The
instrument runs at -235°C.
Fig.14: there are four arrays, each containing
62,000 shutters (measuring 0.1 × 0.2mm).
Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/about/
innovations/microshutters.html
Multiple simultaneous spectra are
taken with the aid of 248,000 micro
shutters (see Fig.14). They can be
individually opened or closed to
allow light from the objects of interest through to the spectrometer via
gratings and a prism to split up the
light into its component wavelengths
– see https://w.wiki/5hex
NIRISS (0.6-5um, Fig.17) is used for
imaging and spectroscopy. It is combined with the Fine Guidance Sensor
(FGS) used to guide the telescope. The
FGS (Fig.19) finds pre-selected guide
stars from a database and uses those
for guidance.
Together, the instrument is known
as the FGS-NIRISS (Fig.15); they
are optically separate but contained
within one assembly.
NIRISS was built by the Canadian
Space Agency.
The detector for NIRISS is a 2048 ×
2048 pixel (4MP) HgCdTe array with
18 × 18μm pixels. NIRISS is used for
near-infrared imaging, wide-field slitless spectroscopy, single object slitless
spectroscopy and aperture masking
interferometry.
Fig.13: the JWST instrument light detection wavelength ranges, mainly in the
infrared part of the spectrum. Source: www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/webb/
news/geithner-qa.html
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Fig.16: a
schematic
view of the
NIRSpec
instrument.
Source:
https://w.
wiki/5gyc
Fig.15: a photograph of the completed
FGS-NIRISS assembly. Source: John
Brebner, Communications Research
Centre
Spectroscopy enables the chemical
composition and physical structure of
distant objects to be determined from
their emission spectra. Slitless spectroscopy is used in sparsely-populated
star fields to determine the spectrum of
many objects at once. Aperture masking interferometry is used to resolve
closely spaced objects such as a binary
star system.
MIRI (4.9-28.8μm, Fig.20 overleaf)
is a camera and imaging spectrometer.
It can see longer wavelength infrared
light than the other instruments and
thus needs to be kept much colder.
It operates at -267°C and has its own
‘cryocooler’ cooling system, shown in
Fig.21 (also overleaf).
The cooling system is spread over
several regions of the ISIM, all of
which are at different temperatures.
Like NIRCam (0.6-5μm), it has four
coronagraphs to block starlight when
►
Fig.18: a
photograph
of the
NIRSpec
instrument.
Source:
https://w.
wiki/5gyd
Pick-Off Mirror
Kinematic Mounts (3 pairs)
Collimator
Pupil / Filter Wheel
Fig.17: a schematic
view of the NIRISS
instrument (Nearinfrared Imager and
Slitless Spectrograph).
Source: https://w.
wiki/5gye
Camera
Detector
Guider POM
Guider Relay TMA
Fig.19: the FGS optical
assembly; this is the other
side of the NIRISS assembly
shown in Fig.17. Source:
https://w.wiki/5gyf
Guider ICP-1
Optical
Alignment
Cuber (1 / 2)
Fine Focus
Mechanism
with fold
mirror
Guider
SIDECar
ASICs (2)
Detector
Assembly with
2 FPAs
Kinematic Mounts
(2 of 3)
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 19
Fig.20: a schematic view of the MIRI (Mid Infrared Instrument). Source:
https://w.wiki/5gyg
►
Table 1 – JWST instruments and their detectors
NIRCam
HgCdTe H2RG (0.6-2.5μm)
8
HgCdTe H2RG (0.6-5μm)
2
NIRSpec
FGS/NIRISS
2
3
Arsenic doped silicon (5-2.8μm)
MIRI
3
Shows the number of different types of IR detectors used in each instrument.
observing exoplanets. It uses arsenic-
doped silicon arrays as its infrared
sensors.
Infrared detectors
The infrared detectors are essential for the operation of the scientific
instruments described above. There
are two types, 4MP HgCdTe arrays
for the 0.6-5μm ‘near-infrared’ and
arsenic-
doped silicon (Si:As) detectors of about 1MP for the 5-28μm ‘mid-
infrared’ wavelength range.
These are all extremely sensitive
as they must detect incredibly faint
light. HgCdTe sensors can be tuned
to the wavelength range of interest by
adjusting the Hg-to-Cd ratio; two different compositions are used, one for
0.6-2.5μm and the other for 0.6-5μm.
See Table 1 for the specific detectors
used in each instrument.
The basic layout of one of the detectors is shown in Fig.22, while an
actual detector is shown in Fig.23.
There is an HgCdTe or Si:As absorber
layer on a silicon readout chip. When
a light photon strikes the absorber,
one or more electron-hole pairs are
created. The electrons and holes move
under the influence of an electric
field and can be sensed by the readout circuitry.
Folding the observatory
With such a large mirror and sunshield, the spacecraft could not fit in
any rocket and so needed to be folded.
That is why the mirror has multiple
segments. The sunshield, mirror, solar
panels and antenna were all folded –
see Figs.24 & 25.
According to Mike Menzel of
NASA, the unfolding process involved
hundreds of possible “single points of
failure”. JWST has 344 known possible single-points-of-failure, about 80%
related to the unfolding process.
There were 144 release mechanisms
for the unfolding process, all of which
had to work perfectly. Naturally, all
such mechanisms got special attention during design, assembly and testing to ensure they would work. There
were also contingency plans for any
deployment failure that might have
occurred, some as simple as re-sending
a command.
The most important thing that had to
work first was the solar array deployment.
For a video of the unfolding (deployment) sequence, see the video titled
“James Webb Space Telescope Deployment Sequence (Nominal)” at https://
youtu.be/RzGLKQ7_KZQ
Fig.21: the cooling arrangement for MIRI; it is kept at -267°C or 6K. Source: https://w.wiki/5gyi
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The JWST’s orbit
JWST orbits a Lagrange point. These
are five special points in space in the
Earth-Moon system. At the L4 and L5
Lagrange points, there is an equal gravitational pull from the Earth, Moon and
Sun, meaning that (in theory) an object
can remain there indefinitely (asteroids are known to accumulate there).
The L1, L2 and L3 points are only
metastable; for an object to stay there, it
must expend minimal fuel for station-
keeping. Objects can reside there for a
long time, but not indefinitely.
Unlike most satellites but like some
other space telescopes, the JWST orbits
in a ‘halo orbit’ around the L2 Lagrange
Point (see Fig.26). It is way beyond the
orbit of the Moon, 1,500,000km from
the Earth. In contrast, Hubble orbits
the Earth at an altitude of only 550km.
The reason for orbiting L2 is to
avoid the heat radiated from the Sun,
Earth and Moon, which would swamp
its sensitive infrared instruments.
JWST can maintain the same orientation, so its sunshield will continue
to protect the telescope. JWST’s view
will never be blocked by the shadow
of the Earth or the Moon, unlike Hubble, which is in Earth’s shadow every
90 minutes.
JWST takes six months to complete
its halo orbit. In this orbit, JWST is in
continuous contact with NASA’s Deep
Space Network with stations in Australia, Spain and California.
For more on the orbit, see the video
titled “Animation: The James Webb
Space Telescope’s Orbit” at https://
youtu.be/6cUe4oMk69E
Fig.22: a schematic view of an
infrared detector sensor used in
several JWST instruments. Source:
https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/about/
innovations/infrared.html
Fig.23: an infrared detector as used
in the NIRCam instrument. Light is
collected on the mauve HgCdTe film.
Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/
about/innovations/infrared.html
Fig.24: this shows how the JWST was folded inside the fairing of the Ariane 5
launch vehicle. Source: https://jwst.nasa.gov/content/about/launch.html#
postLaunchDeployment
Comparing images from
JWST and HST
►
siliconchip.com.au
►
The ‘Deep Field’ images shown in
Figs.27 & 28 (overleaf) are the same
area of space taken using the JWST
and HST. In astronomy, Deep Field
means a very long exposure.
The JWST Deep Field image was
its first, taken with its Near-Infrared
Camera (NIRCam) using several wavelengths and a 12.5 hour exposure time.
It shows the galaxy cluster SMACS
0723 which, due to its great mass,
acts as a ‘gravitational lens’, distorting light from galaxies behind it into
a circular pattern.
The HST image needed to be
exposed for weeks. Despite that, it
shows much less detail due to its
smaller mirror and inability to image
objects in the infrared.
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.25: the deployment sequence of
JWST. LV is launch vehicle, UPS is
Unitized Pallet Structure, PMBA is
Primary Mirror Backplane Assembly
and SMSS is Secondary Mirror
Support Structure.
Source: https://w.wiki/5gyj
Fig.26: this shows the Lagrange points
around the Earth-Sun-Moon system
and the location of the JWST in a halo
orbit around L2. Source: https://jwst.
nasa.gov/content/about/orbit.html
December 2022 21
Fig.27: the first and iconic Deep Field
image from the JWST. Source: www.
nasa.gov/image-feature/goddard/2022/
nasa-s-webb-delivers-deepestinfrared-image-of-universe-yet
Fig.28: a Deep Field image from the
HST taken in 2017 of the same area
shown in Fig.27. Source: https://
archive.stsci.edu/prepds/relics/color_
images/smacs0723-73.html
The area of sky covered by these
images is equivalent to a grain of sand
held at arm’s length.
smallness. The known laws of physics
cannot describe the singularity but do
more-or-less apply for periods starting
10-43 seconds after the Big Bang.
It is important to realise that it was
not an explosion in the conventional
sense, but a sudden expansion of the
very fabric of space-time itself for reasons not fully understood. It might
have been due to some sort of quantum fluctuation.
Light and objects cannot travel faster
than the speed of light, but space itself
expanded much faster than the speed
of light during the early ‘inflationary’
Looking back in time
One objective of the JWST mission
is to ‘look back in time’ at the early
universe. What does that mean? To
understand, we first have to consider
the beginning of the universe.
According to accepted theories of
cosmology, the universe started in a
‘Big Bang’; it came into being suddenly from a ‘singularity’ of infinite
temperature and density and infinite
Waves Imprint Characteristic
Polarization Signals
Density Waves
Earliest Time
Visible with Light
0
−32
10 s
1 µs
Cosmic Microwave Background
Nuclear Fusion Ends
Nuclear Fusion Begins
Inflation
Big
Bang
Protons Formed
Quantum
Fluctuations
Radius of the Visible Universe
Free Electrons
Scatter Light
0.01 s
3 min
380,000 yrs
Redshift
Just as a vehicle-mounted siren
appears to rise in frequency as it
approaches and falls in frequency as
it moves away, so too does light. A
light source such as a star or galaxy
moving away from us shifts toward a
lower frequency which is also a longer
wavelength, pushing it toward the red
end of the spectrum. This is called redshift. The opposite, blueshift, occurs
for objects moving towards us.
In 1929, Edwin Hubble discovered that all galaxies were moving
away from us and each other, ie, the
Modern Universe
{
Neutral Hydrogen Forms
Inflation
Generates
Two Types of
Waves
History of the Universe
Gravitational Waves
phase of the Big Bang, before 10-32
seconds had elapsed and where the
early universe grew to enormous size
in an unimaginably tiny fraction of a
second, going through several phases
as shown in Fig.29.
Because of the ongoing inflation of
the universe, objects can be more light
years away than the universe’s age.
We can currently look as far back
in time as the cosmic microwave
background 380,000 years after the
Big Bang (but not with the JWST, as
explained below). In future, it may
be possible to look back in time even
further than that by detecting so-called
primordial gravitational waves, which
current detectors cannot sense (see our
article on Gravitational Waves in the
October 2021 issue – siliconchip.au/
Article/15063).
There are also density waves, like
shock waves, which correspond to the
regions of differing matter density in
the universe that led to the formation
of stars and galaxies.
A consequence of the Big Bang is
that all parts of the universe are moving away from each other, like dots
painted on the surface of a balloon
as it is inflated. We see these objects
as they were long ago, not as they are
now, because of the time it takes light
to travel to us.
13.8 Billion yrs
Age of the Universe
Fig.29: a timeline of events during the universe’s formation, showing how
the radius of the universe is thought to have changed with time. Note the
gravitational and density waves. Source: https://w.wiki/5gyk (CC BY-SA 3.0).
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universe was expanding. He saw that
the redshift of fainter and presumably
more distant galaxies was greater than
brighter, closer galaxies. Hence, he
concluded that the more distant the
galaxy, the faster it is receding and
that the universe must be expanding.
The rate at which the universe is
expanding is determined by the Hubble constant, which is about 65km/s
for every three million light years an
object is away from us. One light year
is the distance light travels in a year,
about 9,461,000,000,000,000km.
It was also concluded that the higher
the redshift of a galaxy (the same as
saying the more distant it is), the earlier in its life we see it. In other words,
we see it the way light first left the
object millions or billions of years
ago. The object might not even exist
now, but we wouldn’t know that and
would have to wait millions or billions
of years to find out.
The redshift can be so far toward
and beyond the red end of the spectrum that it is beyond the visible light
spectrum, ie, in the infrared.
We can tell how far the light spectrum has been redshifted by reference
to specific markers within the spectra
corresponding to known molecular
and atomic absorption lines. These
characteristic spectral patterns correspond to specific elements or compounds – see Fig.30.
In extreme cases, ie, the most distant
objects, the entire spectrum becomes
invisible as it has entirely shifted into
the infrared.
The Big Bang happened 13.8 billion years ago, and the first stars are
now believed to have formed 100 million years after the Big Bang and the
first galaxies about one billion years
after the Big Bang. The JWST seeks
to detect some of the very first stars
and galaxies.
Redshift is denoted by the letter z,
corresponding to the fractional change
Fig.30: two example
spectra with absorption
lines; our Sun below and
a supercluster of distant
galaxies above. The upper
absorption lines are all
shifted towards the red
end of the spectrum due
to redshift as the cluster
is moving away from us
rapidly. Source: www.ctaobservatory.org/redshiftwhy-does-distance-matterto-cta/
siliconchip.com.au
Why doesn’t JWST have ‘selfie’ cameras?
The JWST doesn’t have any cameras for viewing itself because they would
be an unnecessary source of unwanted heat. Heat would be conducted along
the connecting wires and struts
even if they were turned off. It was a
matter that the designers did carefully
consider. Also, onboard sensors can
detect most malfunctions.
The telescope does have a limited
capability to take a selfie of the
primary mirror.
A ‘selfie’ image of the primary
mirror of the JWST taken during
initial mirror alignment procedures.
Source: https://blogs.nasa.gov/
webb/2022/02/11/photons-receivedwebb-sees-its-first-star-18-times/
in wavelength. For example, if light
were emitted at 120nm (nanometres)
and observed at 150nm, the redshift
factor z would be 0.25 (150 ÷ 120 − 1).
While the HST can see objects no
further back than 400 million years
after the Big Bang (redshift of z ≈ 11.1),
JWST can detect objects even earlier
at 180 million years after the Big Bang
(redshift z ≈ 20).
The earliest stars are now thought to
be from 100 to 180 million years after
the Big Bang (redshift of z ≈ 30 to z ≈
20), and the earliest galaxies from 270
million years after the Big Bang (redshift of z ≈ 15).
Imaging in the infrared
The ability to image in the infrared has several advantages plus some
challenges. Important advantages are:
1. Being able to see through dust
and gas clouds, as they tend to block
visible light but are transparent to IR.
2. Being able to see very distant
objects where the redshift causes
them to be invisible in the visible light
spectrum.
3. Infrared radiation is absorbed in
Earth’s atmosphere, so an IR space
telescope can see things that are very
difficult or impossible to image from
the Earth’s surface.
4. Objects such as planets, local
asteroids and debris discs around
other solar systems being formed emit
more strongly in the infrared than in
visual wavelengths.
One of the most significant challenges is that the telescope has to be
kept as cool as possible because all
matter radiates in the infrared in proportion to its temperature.
The colder something is held, the
less infrared radiation emanates from
it. We all know that metal objects glow
when very hot, but you might not realise that they emit light before being
heated; we just can’t see it because it
is infrared.
If the telescope and its instruments
were not kept cool, the instruments
would not be able to detect infrared
radiation from the universe because
they would be swamped by radiation
from the telescope itself.
The use of infrared telescopes is limited on Earth because water vapour in
the atmosphere absorbs infrared radiation. Such telescopes are placed on
Can the JWST be seen with other telescopes?
Researchers at the Virtual Telescope
Project (www.virtualtelescope.eu)
managed to image the JWST as a
single small dot of light.
The JWST imaged with an amateur
Planewave 17in (43cm) f/6.8
telescope with a 300s exposure.
Source: www.virtualtelescope.
eu/2022/01/25/james-webb-spacetelescope-a-new-image-24-jan-2022/
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December 2022 23
Fig.31: our atmosphere almost completely absorbs infrared energy. That is why
infrared observations are best made from space. Source: https://w.wiki/5gym
high mountain tops with dry environments or are airborne on aircraft or
balloons. Regardless, superior infrared
observations can be made from space
– see Fig.31.
Looking back further in time
While the JWST looks back in time
as far as is possible to see with infrared
light, to about 180 million years after
the Big Bang, we have looked back further in time using microwaves with
the Wilkinson Microwave Anisotropy
Probe (WMAP) to about 375,000 years
after the Big Bang.
This was a time before star and galaxy formation; microwaves were evidence of the “afterglow” of the Big
Bang – see Fig.32.
The time between 375,000 and 400
million years after the Big Bang is
known as the “Cosmic Dark Age”, as
there were (previously) believed to be
no stars or other light sources to generate light. In fact, the end of the Cosmic Dark Age at 400 million years is
now disputed. The JWST has found
galaxies younger than that (see below).
The most distant galaxy
At the time of writing, the most distant and earliest galaxy is believed to
be the candidate object named CEERS93316, discovered using the JWST
in July 2022 – see Figs.33 & 34. It is
believed to have formed just 235.8
million years after the Big Bang. It
was previously believed that the first
Fig.32: looking back in time with microwaves. The cosmic microwave
background was imaged by the Wilkinson Microwave Anisotropy Probe (WMAP)
and depicted as the afterglow pattern in this diagram. The JWST sees back in time
to the first stars. Source: https://map.gsfc.nasa.gov/media/060915/index.html
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Fig.33: the galaxy CEERS-93316. It
mightn’t look like much, but it is the
most distant object yet observed by
the JWST. Source: www.ed.ac.uk/
news/2022/edinburgh-astronomersfind-most-distant-galaxy
galaxies formed 400 million years after
the Big Bang.
Light from this object has travelled
for 13.55 billion years, and the distance to the object is 34.68 billion light
years due to the universe’s expansion.
The red shift is z ≈ 16.7.
Imaging exoplanets
JWST will be able to observe certain young, hot planets via a technique
called direct imaging as well as other
methods. JWST will also be able to
detect oxygen and organic molecules
in exoplanet atmospheres, which are
possible indicators of life.
Limited ability for service
The JWST was not intended to be
serviced. Once its fuel is depleted or
there is a major system failure, the mission will be terminated. The minimum
planned mission time is five years, so
service is not expected to be needed,
but compare that to Hubble, which has
exceeded its design lifetime by a substantial margin and has been in orbit
for 32 years.
But the HST was designed to be serviced and was placed in an orbit accessible by the Space Shuttle.
In contrast, the JWST is in a very
hard-to-access orbit. There is no present way to service the JWST, but there
are very limited provisions for a possible manned or robotic servicing operation. Details on that are hard to find.
Among these provisions are a refuelling adaptor and, according to Space.
com, a docking ring (see their 2007
article at siliconchip.au/link/abgo).
Alternatively, the interface ring used
to attach the JWST to the Ariane 5
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.34: a timeline from the Big Bang to the present. The letter z refers to the amount of redshift. The more redshift, the
more distant the object and the older it is. Source: https://w.wiki/5gyn
launch vehicle could be used to grapple the spacecraft.
The JWST has been engineered with
multiple redundant systems so that if
one fails, others can take over, minimising the need for servicing. The goal
is for a ten-year lifespan, ie, twice the
planned mission duration. Ultimately,
if there are no significant failures, the
fuel supply for station keeping will be
the limiting factor.
Because of an excellent initial rocket
burn and trajectory, it used much less
fuel for mid-course correction than
expected, and it is hoped that there is
enough fuel left for perhaps 20 years
of operation.
Electrical power
The JWST has a solar array to provide 2kW of electrical power. JWST
stores power from the array in lithium-
ion batteries, specifically, Enersys
ABSL types in an 8S44P (series and
parallel) 28V, ~66Ah configuration.
Propulsion & attitude keeping
The propulsion system uses thrusters that run on hydrazine fuel (N2H4,
159L tank capacity) with dinitrogen
tetroxide oxidiser (N2O4, 79.5L tank
capacity).
There are four Secondary Combustion Augmented Thrusters (SCATs)
in two pairs. One pair was used to
propel the JWST into orbit, while the
other is for station keeping. It also
has eight monopropellant Rocket
Engines (MRE-1) – see Fig.35. These
use hydrazine decomposition (without oxidiser) and are for attitude control and momentum unloading of the
reaction wheels.
Slewing and then pointing the telescope in the desired direction is done
Fig.35: a schematic view
of the JWST propulsion
system. “GHe” stands
for gaseous helium used
to pressurise the fuel
tanks. Original source:
Hammann, Jeff, JWST
Propellant Budget
Document, Northrup
Grumman, July 19th,
2013 (D40258).
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December 2022 25
by the Attitude Control System (ACS)
and the JWST Fine Guidance Sensor
(FGS). The ACS also is responsible for
Delta-V (orbit correction), momentum
unloading (see below), antenna pointing, avoiding pointing at the Sun and
controlling observatory “safe modes”.
The spacecraft flight software
receives data from various sensors,
instructions from the Integrated Science Instrument Module (ISIM) and
JWST ground control and processes
them to send data to either the reaction wheels or the thrusters.
The sensors include sun sensors,
two star trackers and gyroscopes. The
star trackers choose appropriate stars
from a catalog, track their positions
and compare them with the commanded position.
During exposures (taking pictures),
the Fine Guidance System (FGS)
observes the guide star and makes
measurements every 64ms. That data
is sent to the ACS, which corrects any
pointing error using reaction wheels
and the Fine Steering Mirror (FSM).
Momentum management and
reaction wheels
Reaction wheels are used in spacecraft, including the JWST, to control
their attitude (orientation with respect
to a fixed object). They are essentially
motorised flywheels. When the wheel
spins up or down, the spacecraft reacts
by rotating in the opposite direction.
The JWST has six reaction wheels –
see Fig.36.
Their use saves spacecraft fuel and
they can also be used for tiny and
accurate attitude adjustments, more
so than rocket thrusters. They can
only be used to rotate a spacecraft,
not to move it.
Interesting links
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Build a paper model of the JWST: siliconchip.au/link/abgq
Make a model of the JWST mirror: siliconchip.au/link/abgr
Links for accessing data from JWST and instrument documentation:
siliconchip.au/link/abgs
Details of all the deployment operations: siliconchip.au/link/abgt
43-part playlist of time-lapse videos of the JWST being built and tested:
siliconchip.au/link/abgp
Photons from the Sun constantly hit
the JWST sunshield. Since photons
can exert a small force, this causes a
force to be applied to the telescope.
The centre of pressure of the sunshield
is not the same as the centre of mass
of the telescope, so this force generates a torque, making the telescope
want to rotate.
The reaction wheels counter this
rotation. As a result, angular momentum accumulates in the wheels (ie,
they keep spinning faster). If this
were not corrected, the wheels would
exceed their design limits. Therefore, the thrusters are fired about 4-8
times per month to allow the reaction wheels to be spun down. This
“momentum unloading” activity takes
several hours.
The JWST has a “momentum flap”,
also known as a “trim flap”, to somewhat minimise the rotation due to photon pressure, saving fuel.
What can JWST image?
Every six months, the JWST can
image almost anything in the celestial sphere as it orbits the Sun and the
Earth. At any one instant, however,
it can see anything with a 50° field
of view. 39% of the celestial sphere
is potentially accessible to it at once.
The only areas permanently inaccessible are imaging of the Sun, Mercury,
Venus, Earth and Moon as these are too
Fig.36: a model RSI
50-220/451 reaction
wheel, similar or
the same as used on
the JWST and built
by Rockwell Collins
Deutschland GmbH
(formerly Teldix). It
features integrated
electronics, spins at
up to 4500 RPM, is
347mm in diameter
and 124mm high,
weighs 9.5kg, runs
on 100V DC and
consumes under
20W. Source:
https://artes.esa.int/
projects/htmod2
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hot and would overload its sensors,
possibly damaging or destroying them.
False image colours
Images in visible light have the traditional colours of the visible light
spectrum that we are used to, but pictures from the JWST are also coloured,
even though they were taken in the
infrared.
Beyond the visible light spectrum,
colour is meaningless; however, adding colour to images helps us interpret
them, so, like visible light, colour in
infrared images is based on the wavelength of the light detected.
Colour is arbitrarily assigned to
the various infrared wavelengths to
convey additional information to us;
otherwise, the images would be all
in greyscale and only show intensity
information.
Data and comms
Data from the JWST is sent to the
ground via NASA’s Deep Space Network. The telescope can downlink
a minimum of 57.2GB of data daily
at 28Mbit/s. It has a solid-state data
recorder to store up to 65GB of science data. Downlinks occur twice per
day for four hours, and up to 28.6GB
of recorded data is transmitted per
downlink period.
Comms occur over Ka-band (2740GHz) for the high-rate downlink
of data and telemetry, and S-band
(2-4GHz), which is used for command
uplink, low-rate telemetry downlink
and ranging.
Micrometeroroid impacts
As expected, the JWST mirror has
suffered at least 19 micrometeoroid
impacts at the time of writing, but
these have not caused any significant
performance degradation. One impact
was larger than expected and required
a readjustment of the mirror actuator
to compensate for the damage.
When the JWST passes through
high-risk areas, its mirror will be
turned away from the direction of
travel.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Festive
S
R
E
V
A
S
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres®
mily.
for any tech loving fa
Great value gift ideas
31st.
Sale ends December
SAVE $54
225
$
SAVE $50
199
$
X 7063
FIRE THE WEATHER MAN!
With
outdoor
sensors &
smartphone
app!
Get live, local weather at home every day.
This fantastic weather station displays your local weather data - great for boaties & gardeners.
Bright & clear base station provides readings for indoor/outdoor temperature, humidity,
air pressure, rainfall, wind speed and direction. Plus handy weather trends. You can even
connect it to wi-fi for monitoring readings & data with your phone. 100m sensor range.
C 5160
Microphone for
speeches & karaoke
Active RGB LED
lighting with beat
triggering.
True Wireless
Stereo (pairs to
a second unit!)
SAVE 25%
22
$
Bluetooth Boom Box & Wireless PA System
Need instant sound for your next big get together?
Not only is this a great sounding boom box for your party music, it
also includes a wireless mic for speeches and karaoke! Offers up to
8 hours use from a single charge. You can even record speeches to
USB. Size: 560H x 250D x 260Wmm.
i12 Bluetooth®
Earbuds
These affordable wireless
Bluetooth 5.0 earbuds
offer great sound for less!
2-3 hour listening time per
charge. Compatible with
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SAVE $15
60
$
X 3227*
C 9032A
Music sensor
can trigger
lights to the
beat!
D 0515A*
Great gift idea!
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No more
eye strain!
109
$
X 4201 5 Dioptre
X 4200 3 Dioptre
Ultra-bright long life
LED for fantastic clarity (plus
no need to change a globe EVER!). Let “gadget” be your
eyes. Identify those impossible
to read miniature parts
without straining your eyes.
Great for collectors, model
makers, jewellers etc.
SAVE
$20
Get a crisp
close up view
SAVE 20%
Magnetic
Wireless
Battery Bank
30
$
X 0432A
Adjustable 5x-7x magnifier with LED
backlight. Great for reading fine print
and hobbies etc. Includes case and
batteries.
55
$
Wi-Fi RGB Strip Lighting Kit
This kit includes 5m of RGB strip lighting, power
supply and controller unit allowing you to create
colourful lighting effects around your home.
Music sensor input allows the lighting to trigger to
music being played in the room. Works with Alexa
and Google Assistant. 60 LEDs per metre.
Charge your phone
on the go with this
MagSafe compatible
wireless charging
battery bank - suitable
for iPhone 12 or
higher. 10,000mAh.
20W USB C PD
in/out. *Device for
P 8149
illustration purposes.
All-In-One Mini Audio
Studio For Creators
The MaonoCaster Lite provides
everything you need to get started in
podcasting, live streaming, YouTube
& Twitch. Get top quality audio from
the included XLR cardioid pick up condenser mic, control all your device levels, effects and music using the mixer
buttons. Includes mic, mixer console,
USB C cable, tripod, windsock, 3 x
TRRS jack cables and monitor earphones. Desk mount microphone
arm to suit C 0506 $35.95.
SAVE 24%
2 For
SAVE $64
Handy kit to get started in
online content creation!
175
$
D 0990A
Wi-Fi Automation
For Xmas Lighting.
30
$
Switch appliances on or off remotely from anywhere in the world. Set schedules, monitor and
control via the Tuya Android/iOS app. Maximum
10A 2400W. Works with Google Home and Alexa.
Order online at altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends December 31st
Power up your
summer.
80W mains
output
Lithium-Ion Car
Jump Starter
A must have
summer roady.
trip accessor
Suits 12V battery vehicles.
20000mAh rated battery provides
up to 2500A peak output when
cranking. Three USB ports are
provided for charging devices
(like a giant battery bank!). It also
has a super bright 1W LED torch
in built. 192L x 90W x 36Dmm.
Don’t get stranded
with a dud
battery!
M 8195B
NEW!
229
$
4 USB
charging
ports
Reading
Light
USB C PD
SAVE 12%
50
$
D 2208
Dual
LED
Torch
Wireless Charger Phone Holder
SAVE $60
209
$
Save time in the car with this handy
motorised windscreen/air vent phone
mount. It automatically secures your phone
in the mount and starts charging! Works
with Qi wireless charging equipped phones.
M 8197
Carry 240V Power Anywhere!
This air travel friendly portable power generator is fitted with
6Ah battery bank, 80W 240V mains inverter, 18W power
delivery USB C charger & QC3.0 USB charger. Offers you cable
free power for both AC and DC appliances! Recharge by USB or
included power adaptor.
Huge 48W
output for
all
tablets & sm
laptops
Fast Car Charger
240V
power from
a lithium
battery!
SAVE $260
1039
$
M 8632A
39.95
1199
$
SAVE $60
239
$
M 8199A
Portable power for any adventure.
Powerhouse® LiFePO4 Slimline Lithium Batteries
Ultra slim 75mm profile with full current discharge
capability and a 5 year warranty.
Space at a premium in your camper, caravan or 4WD? These compact batteries are
perfect for remote power solutions without taking up precious cargo space for your
gear. Pre-fitted with Anderson input and output connections and handy LCD battery
capacity gauge. 100Ah: 600 x 275 x 75mm. 135Ah: 600 x 410 x 75mm.
N 0704A 10W
N 0706A 15W
SAVE $10
SAVE $10
49
34.95
$
$
SAVE $300
SL4580W
135AH
$
NEW!
NEW!
SL4576W 100Ah
Up to 135aH
st
capacity. Ju
75mm thick!
Huge 48W PD output from a
tiny car charger! QC3.0 plus
USB type C power delivery.
This portable power generator is fitted with 14Ah battery bank &
240V mains inverter. Allowing you cable free power for both AC and
DC appliances anywhere! Plus 2.1mm DC power & USB charging for
keeping everything charged on the go.
40W solar panel (N0040F) to suit $89.95.
The ultimate
camping, fishing,
anything light!
69
Bluetooth FM Audio Player
Transmits bluetooth audio from your phone
(music, routes phone calls etc) to your cars
FM radio. Plus it’s also a QC3.0 & USB
C charger.
SAVE $9.95
15
$
Weather
resistant!
M 8630A
Provides 5 hours use from
a high spec lithium battery
- or use it as a USB battery
bank to charge your
SAVE 38%
phone. Folds flat for
easy storage. 10W,
$
1000 lumens.
X 0225A
$
X 0604C
®
Dual QC3.0 USB Car Charger
Keep everything charged up in the car with
this handy 36W dual USB charger. Stylish
carbon fibre look finish.
30
SAVE 20%
GREAT FOR:
• Motorbikes
• Caravans
• Boats
• Jet Skis & more!
Powertran® Solar Battery Charger/Maintainers
These compact solar panels are designed for keeping your vehicle batteries
topped up when parked. Easy croc clip or car accessory plug connection. Can
even be permanently installed outdoors. 10W: 377L x 212W x 17D mm.
15W: 40L x 343W x 17Dmm.
40
$
N 2099A
Easy DIY install! Great for 4WDs
SAVE 30%
68
$
Monitor your
battery from
your phone!
Ensure your battery
doesn’t go flat with this
handy Bluetooth® battery
monitor. Provides live
feedback on your vehicle
or auxiliary battery, plus
handy long term stats.
M 8627B
90W Car Laptop Charger
Up to 90W power output for most laptops
from your car accessory socket. Includes
9 laptop adaptors - see web for product
compatibility list.
Order online at altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends December 31st
Build & have fun this Xmas.
Z 6454
Cute Scurrying
Hedgehog Kit
99
$
K 1152
This cute hedgehog toy kit
bristles his spines when he
hears a loud noise (such as a
hand clap). He will even curl
up and roll away if you scare
him! Assembles in <2 hours,
no special tools required.
Requires 4 x AAA batteries.
Ages 8+
+ BONUS
Hydraulic Cyborg
Hand Kit
BONUS! Z 6439B micro:bit
board. Valued at $36.50
STEM bot is an easy to program 2 wheel obstacle
avoidance and line tracking robot. Coding your program
is easy using the standard BBC Micro:bit software.
Simple construction with easy to folow instructions.
Can also be controlled via Bluetooth. Runs from 18650
rechargeable lithium cells (S 4736 $18.50). Ages 8+
SAVE $50
45
$
109
$
Lab kits
to suit any
budget in
store!
SAVE 10%
49.95
130 in 1
Electronics Learning Lab
$
Build your own full size
hydraulic powered robotic
hand. Fits over your own
hand like a glove and
simulates joint movements to pick up objects.
No batteries. Left & right
handed.
Build & code your own robot.
K 2208
SAVE 22%
This comprehensive learning lab provides many hours
of building and learning for electronic concepts - great
for any young future engineer! Build a radio, broadcast
station, organ, kitchen timer, logic circuits & more.
Requires 6xAA batteries. Ages 10+
K 1141
TOP
SELLER!
Handheld
Game
Console Kit
Build it
14 ways!
This Arduino based kit
allows you to download
and play hundreds of
open source games - or
have a go at coding
your own! Powered
by an atmega32U4
chip with direct USB
programming. 1.3”
monochrome screen.
SAVE 15%
SAVE 40%
29
$
Z 6457
.95
55
35
$
$
SAVE 18%
18
$
SAVE $14
.50
K 1097
K 1113
K 1138
Solar Powered Wild Boar Kit
A basic solar DIY toy, it is ideal for a do-ityourself school holiday project with the
bonus of being educational! Ages 6+
14 Solar Kits In One!
Tribo 3 in 1 Coding Robot
A fun and educational kit designed to assemble
14 different ways to inspire your kids to learn
about solar power. No soldering required.
Requires no batteries. Ages 8+
An easy to build and program robot which
uses keypad entry commands to program
movements and actions. No PC required!
Uses 4xAAA batteries. Ages 8+.
SAVE $10
12.95
$
42
$
K 1149
SAVE $10
45
$
K 1148
The Original Tobbie Robot Kit
A six legged robot kit designed to avoid objects
or follow you around the room. Easy to build.
Requires 4 x AAA batteries. Ages 8+
30 in 1
Electronics Lab
Contains everything
you need to build a
range of electronic
projects to encourage
learning about
essential principles.
Requires 2 x AA
batteries. Ages 8+
SAVE $10
40
Build one
robot up to
5 ways!
Build it
12 ways!
$
K 1154
5 In 1 Smart ‘Coding’ Robot Kit
12 In 1 Solar & Hydraulic Kit
A huge parts kit which can be built and rebuilt into 12
different solar powered designs. Hours of fun for kids
aged 8 or over (or younger with adult help).
Features a central coding ring which tells the robot
directions and when to perform actions. Can be built
and re-built 5 ways. Teaches kids about coding with no
computers required! Requires 1xAAA battery. Ages 8+
An amazing chemical experiment
showing how electrical current can be
generated by electrodes and acidic
fruit & vegetables.
60 in 1
Electronics Lab
49
$
SAVE 22%
30
$
Keeps bored kids busy.
Build a compass, a
rain detector, electro
magnet and more!
Requires 9V &
2xAA batteries.
SAVE 19%
Ages 8+
SAVE 20%
K 2204
88
$
K 1146
Potato Clock Kit
K 2200
10 in 1 Electronics Lab
K 2206
Pique a younh engineers interest with 10 fun
projects. Requires 9V battery. Ages 8+
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Handy Gadgets & Gifts
Iroda® Mini Jet
Blowtorch
Produces a powerful
jet like flame - up to
1300°C! Refillable
design is great for
hobbyists.
SAVE
15%
NEW!
30
$
19
.95
$
Hands free, head magnifier
T 2488A
SAVE
10%
44
$
T 4018
Magnetic Parts Bowl
A handy 4” stainless steel bowl with magnetic
base to keep screws from straying.
D 2320
Q 1090
70
$
Includes: • Side cutters. • Flat long needle
nose pliers. • Flat bent needle nose pliers.
• Long nose pliers • Bull nose pliers.
N 0700A
Stylish alarm clock with 10W wireless charging and 8 colour night light. 2 alarm settings
so you’ll always wake up on time.
$
15
$
X 0229
SAVE
24%
This nifty Bluetooth can speaker offers
great sound and 3-4 hours listening. Pairs
with a second unit for wireless stereo.
Water resistant.
A 0319
SAVE
24%
30
50
$
Wireless Global Travel Charger
A do-it-all USB power delivery charger (18W), Qi
wireless charger and battery bank (6700mAh)
for devices. Includes case.
30
$
SAVE
20%
A 1111
AE1101
19
.95
$
SAVE
25%
Bluetooth® 3.5mm Jack
Instantly add wireless audio to
any 3.5mm input - like your car, headphones or home amp. USB rechargeable for
4 hrs listening.
C 9037B
SAVE
40%
Bluetooth Plane Adaptor
Transmits audio from any single or dual
jack airplane audio socket to your favourite
Bluetooth headphones. 4-5 hours listening.
40
$
Top Value Wireless Earbuds
Bluetooth 5.0. Sweat resistant design great for exercise. 3-4hrs of listening time
with battery bank case.
Take high quality
audio notes
2 In 1 Torch
& Lantern
Super bright 3W LED
with pop up lantern.
Requires 3xAA batteries.
D 2038
Bluetooth Can Speaker
SAVE
$39
This compact
5W solar panel is
designed for keeping
your vehicle batteries topped up when
parked.
Wireless Charger Alarm Clock
9999 Count
True RMS
DMM
Featuring a striking
easy to read reverse
backlit screen. Auto
ranging with push
button operation.
5pc Plier & Cutter Set
$
Protect your
car battery.
Really
useful!
15.95
29.95
$
T 2758A
Thousands sold! Offers 1.5, 2.6 and 5.8x
magnification with LED lamp. Requires
2xAAA batteries.
$
39.95
T 2555
Record CD quality
audio with excellent
audio pick up for taking
notes during lectures
& recording interviews.
32GB+Micro SD slot.
USB rechargeable.
T 2282
SAVE
28%
9
$ .95
The Pocket Hero is here!
This nifty 12 in 1 pocket saviour helps you
fix life’s little problems.
SAVE
$20
79
$
Western Australia
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Sale Ends December 31st 2022
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Joondalup: 2/182 Winton Rd
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
X 0705A
X 0203
15
$
USB Dual LED Head Torch
Weather resistant, USB rechargeable, &
120 lumens for JUST $15! Why pay
$50 or more?
Victoria
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2166
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave
03 9549 2188
03 9549 2121
New South Wales
» Auburn: 15 Short St
02 8748 5388
Queensland
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
07 3441 2810
South Australia
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd
08 8164 3466
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2022. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0012
Find a local reseller at: altronics.com.au/storelocations/dealers/
Tim Blythman’s
Dual-Channel
Power Supply for
BREADBOARDS
Things can get messy when you’re prototyping a design on a breadboard
but you don’t want to make a mistake hooking up the power supply! This
Dual-Channel Breadboard PSU is the perfect solution. It plugs straight into
a breadboard’s power rails, has two adjustable current-limited outputs
and can run from different power sources. It has already become an
indispensable part of our workbench.
We
do a lot of prototyping on
breadboards. It’s the easiest
way to test ideas, especially if you need
to tweak and modify a circuit configuration. Jumper wires make it very easy
to wire up a circuit and change it on a
solderless breadboard.
While you can get compact power
supply modules that plug straight
into a breadboard and provide 5V and
3.3V rails, like Jaycar Cat XC4606 and
Altronics Cat Z6355, they have their
drawbacks. The main problems are
that they only offer one voltage at a
time and lack the flexibility and current limiting features of a bench power
supply.
So we decided to design a low-cost,
easy-to-build replacement incorporating the most important features of a
bench supply.
The result is a Breadboard PSU
that’s versatile yet straightforward.
It plugs directly into a breadboard’s
power rails at one end, like the simpler supplies described above, but it
has two independent outputs.
We have published a similar design
called the Arduino-based Power Supply (February 2021; siliconchip.au/
Article/14741), a compact solution
siliconchip.com.au
for a home workshop. Like this Breadboard PSU, it provides up to 14V output at up to 1A, although it only has
one output.
As the Arduino-based Power Supply
is controlled by a computer, it can be
tucked away. Its controls and display
are displayed on the computer screen,
so it does not take up any more valuable workbench space.
But there is nothing quite so tactile as being able to adjust a couple of
knobs to dial in voltage and current
settings while you’re testing a prototype, and that is how the Breadboard
PSU works. If you’re working close-up
with the breadboard, having the supply controls nearby is convenient, and
the PSU doesn’t make the whole breadboard set-up much bigger.
Two independent
output channels
Most breadboards have at least two
sets of supply rails, one pair on either
side. Given that, and the fact that many
circuits require two voltages (eg, 3.3V
& 5V or 5V & 12V), adding a second
channel seemed like a great idea.
Even just using the two outputs as
independent, current-limited supplies
at the same voltage can be handy for
testing and validating parts of a circuit.
Despite duplicating much of the
circuitry, we’ve managed to keep the
end result compact. The basic version
Features & Specifications
∎ Two independent channels
∎ Each channel delivers 0-14V/0-1A (depending on input supply & load)
∎ Runs from 7-15V DC or USB 5V DC
∎ Plugs straight into breadboard power rails
∎ Four potentiometers provide all controls
∎ Optional metering add-on described on page 40 (shown above)
∎ Transient load regulation: <80mV DC + 350mV AC, 0-1A
∎ Transient settling time: 300µs, 0-1A
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 31
doesn’t even have a display; it just
has four knobs to dial in the voltage
and current limit on each of the two
channels.
It is certainly usable on its own, but
there are evident benefits to being able
to see the output voltages and currents
as you work on your prototype. Later,
we will present a neat little display
module that not only provides readouts for the Breadboard PSU. It even
32
Silicon Chip
has extra measuring channels to help
you see what else is happening on your
breadboard!
Circuit operation
For the most part, the two channels
of the Breadboard PSU have identical circuits that work independently.
They are supplemented by some common supply circuitry, as shown in
Fig.1, the full circuit diagram.
Australia's electronics magazine
You might notice that there are no
regulator ICs in the main part of the
circuit, at lower left. Instead, like the
earlier Arduino PSU, the two outputs have their voltage regulated by
op amps controlling NPN emitter-
follower transistors (Q1 & Q3). The op
amps use negative feedback to adjust
the transistor base voltages to maintain
the desired output voltages.
This method of regulation can be
siliconchip.com.au
Breadboard power modules like
this are available from Jaycar and
Altronics. They are inexpensive,
convenient and can provide 5V
and 3.3V rails as set by a switch,
but they only supply one voltage at
a time and don’t have adjustable
voltages or current limiting.
Fig.1: the Breadboard PSU shares some circuitry with the Arduino
Programmable Power Supply but with no microcontroller in sight. Instead,
four potentiometers provide control of two independent current-limited
adjustable supplies.
a bit tricky due to the need for it to
respond fast to changes in output load
while at the same time, needing stability to avoid oscillation. Luckily, by
using NPN emitter-followers, we avoid
a large phase shift and gain a great deal
of ‘local feedback’, so the op amps only
need to make minor adjustments. More
on that local feedback later.
As the supply is intended to be flexible, there are two different ways to
siliconchip.com.au
power it. We’ll refer to the higher of
these as 15V but its absolute maximum
is 16V, the highest voltage that all circuit components can tolerate. Apart
from this, its exact value is not critical and we expect users will stick to
around 12-15V DC, as supplies delivering that range of voltages are pretty
common.
Since the highest possible output
voltage is around 2V below this rail,
Australia's electronics magazine
even a 9V battery is a valid option if
you only need voltages up to about 5V.
For example, if you are working primarily with microcontrollers.
A 5V rail also exists in the circuit
for components that cannot handle
15V. JP1 and JP2 provide the means to
configure the sources of the 15V and
5V rails, respectively, and are derived
from DC input jack CON1 and USB
socket CON2.
The incoming DC voltage at CON1
passes through reverse-polarity protection diode D1 to one side of JP1,
allowing direct use of the incoming
voltage for the 15V rail. The incoming
DC at CON1 also feeds 78L05 linear
regulator REG1, accompanied by an
input bypass capacitor to produce a
5V rail, which goes to one side of JP2.
With JP1 and JP2 set to the “REG”
and “JACK” positions, the power from
CON1 supplies all the power rails on
the Breadboard PSU.
When JP1 and JP2 are set to the alternative “BST” and “USB” positions,
the 15V rail is derived from MOD1,
an MT3608 boost module, which is
supplied by 5V from the USB socket.
The boost module has an adjustable
output which must not be set any
higher than 16V.
Other components common to the
two supplies are a 51kW/10kW divider
which provides a scaled version of
the 15V DC rail to a pin on CON5 for
external monitoring.
A four-channel INA4180A1 current
shunt monitor (IC1) and its 100nF
bypass capacitor are also shared
between the two channels. It is powered from the 5V rail and used to
monitor the output current of each
channel plus optionally two other
currents across pairs of points on the
breadboard.
Dual independent regulators
The remaining circuitry is independently allocated to one of the two
December 2022 33
The Breadboard PSU is
designed to tap into small breadboards
with longitudinal power rails, such as the Jaycar
Cat PB8820 seen earlier. One end rests on header pins in the
breadboard, while the other stands on tapped plastic spacers.
channels and identical between the
two. Therefore, we’ll describe the
function of one channel, with designations in brackets to indicate the
equivalent part for the other channel.
10kW potentiometers VR1 (VR2) and
VR3 (VR4) are wired across the 5V rail
to set the voltage and current targets,
respectively.
The control voltage from VR1 (VR2)
passes through a 100kW resistor and is
filtered by a 100nF capacitor to reject
noise, while the current control voltage goes directly to its own 100nF
capacitor. These feed pins 3 and 6
of dual rail-to-rail op amp IC2 (IC3),
respectively.
The 16V supply limit of the op
amps dictates the maximum of 16V
the design can handle.
IC2 (IC3) has a 10μF capacitor
between its pin 4 and 8 supply pins, as
its outputs can be expected to deliver a
reasonable amount of current in sympathy with the PSU’s load. Its supply
comes from the 15V rail and circuit
ground.
The voltage at pin 3 is compared
with that at pin 2, which comes from
a 51kW/10kW divider across output
connector CON3 (CON4). This is fed
from the emitter of MJE3055 NPN
power transistor Q1 (Q3) via a 100mW
current-sense resistor.
Q1’s (Q3’s) base is fed current from
IC2’s (IC3’s) pin 1 output via a 100W
resistor, filtered by a 10μF capacitor
34
Silicon Chip
to ground. This low-pass filter works
to prevent any oscillation that might
occur. Q1’s (Q3’s) collector connects
directly to the 15V rail.
With Q1’s (Q3’s) base voltage held
steady by the 10μF capacitor, if the
output voltage at its emitter drops, the
base-emitter voltage inherently rises,
causing it to conduct more current and
‘prop up’ the output. Similarly, if the
output voltage rises, its base-emitter
voltage drops, so it conducts less, moderating the output voltage.
This local feedback provides fast
corrections in response to load
changes, keeping the output voltage
reasonably steady in the short term.
Slower corrections to its base drive
from the op amp provide longer-term
fine-tuning to improve regulation.
IC2a (IC3a) effectively tries to keep
pins 2 and 3 at the same voltage by
changing its output at pin 1. The voltage applied to CON3 (CON4) is thus a
scaled version of the voltage on IC2a’s
(IC3a’s) pin 3 with a low source impedance, forming the voltage control portion of the circuit.
For the most part, the output voltage
is proportional (as per the 51kW/10kW
divider) to the voltage set by the voltage at the wiper of VR1 (VR2), but it
can vary, as we shall see shortly.
The 100nF capacitor across the
51kW feedback resistor helps the
circuit respond quickly to changes
by applying the full output voltage
Australia's electronics magazine
change to pin 2 of IC2a (IC3a) initially,
rather than a scaled version. The 1nF
capacitor between pins 1 and 2 of IC2a
(IC3a) prevents oscillation by effectively increasing negative feedback at
higher frequencies.
The 100mW shunt mentioned earlier
connects to pins 12 and 13 (2 and 3)
of IC1, the current shunt monitor. IC1
is an amplifier that produces a voltage
at its pin 14 (pin 1) that is 20 times
the difference between its input pins.
This voltage passes to IC2b’s (IC3b’s)
pin 5 non-inverting input via a 10kW
resistor.
The shunt will induce a drop of
100mV at 1A which, when amplified
by 20 by IC1, gives 2V/A at its output.
The current setting voltage from
VR3 (VR4) is directly connected to pin
6 of IC2b (IC3b), the inverting input,
and the output from pin 7 drives the
base of NPN transistor Q2 (Q4) via a
100kW resistor.
Q2’s emitter is grounded and its collector connects to IC2’s (IC3’s) pin 3,
the voltage setting. An excessive output current causes IC2’s (IC3’s) pin
5 to rise above its pin 6 voltage, so
output pin 7 goes high to turn on Q2
(Q4), pulling down the voltage reference until the current limit is no longer exceeded.
Another 1nF capacitor between
IC2’s (IC3’s) pins 6 and 7 helps to
reduce oscillation in the current control feedback loop, similar to the one
in the voltage feedback loop.
Theoretically, the default circuit
values correlate to a full-scale voltage setting of 30.5V on VR1 (VR2) and
about 2.5A on VR3 (VR4), but we don’t
expect either of these will be achieved
in practice. The dividers have mainly
been selected so that the feedback and
control voltages are below 3.3V, so
an external monitoring circuit with a
0-3.3V input range can be used.
If REG1 were replaced with a
pin-compatible 3.3V type (that can
withstand an input of at least 16V), the
maximum voltage and current settings
would be 20V and 1.65A. This would
have the advantage of making the controls less sensitive, so accurate adjustments could be made more easily.
Supply options
Feeding in 12-15V DC to CON1 will
give the best results, as the 5V output
of REG1 will be better regulated than
the 5V DC from a USB power supply.
While the USB option is convenient,
siliconchip.com.au
timebase = ms
Scope 1: the response to a load change that triggers current
limiting is about as fast as possible given the size of the
output capacitor. The 23.5W load brings the output voltage
down from 12V to 10V at around 400mA.
the boost module could impose a
high current draw on the USB supply, which might cause unexpected
glitches if it is overloaded.
If you only ever plan to feed in
power via CON1, you could omit the
USB socket and MOD1 and hard-wire
the two jumpers.
The remaining connectors, CON5CON9, are not needed when the Breadboard PSU is used in its standalone
configuration, but can be used to connect to the display daughterboard, to
be described on page 40.
If fitting these connectors, use
header sockets (they will be included
as part of the kit). These not only match
up with the headers on the display
board, but they also make it easy to
use standard breadboard jumper wires
to connect these points to your breadboard circuit.
If you wish to tap into them for other
purposes, CON5 and CON6 connect to
most of the low-voltage signals mentioned earlier. CON7 provides breakouts for the incoming supplies from
CON1 and CON2. CON8 and CON9
connect to the two spare current shunt
monitor channels on IC1.
timebase = sec
Scope 2: the slowest response under any situation is shown
here, where the output voltage is instantaneously set to
0V with no load. The drop rate is limited by the output
capacitor discharging through the output voltage divider.
performance. Scope 1 shows the
Breadboard PSU’s output using our
Arduino Programmable Load (June
2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15341)
to apply a step load change from an
open circuit to 23.5W, with an initial
voltage of 12V.
The blue trace is the voltage and
the red trace is the current, peaking
at around 500mA. As you can see, the
Breadboard PSU starts reacting almost
immediately and has settled to the
new operating point after about 150μs.
Note that the time constant of the
10μF output capacitor into a 23.5W
load is about the same duration, so
most of the delay is actually due to
the output capacitance discharging.
Scope 2 shows a step change in the
voltage setting from 12V down to 0V
(applied by shorting the VR1 wiper to
ground). Here, the output voltage takes
half a second to decay due to the 10μF
capacitor only being able to discharge
through the 51kW/10kW divider.
Of course, any load impedance will
cause this to happen much quicker.
And it’s doubtful that you’ll be able
to wind the potentiometer down any
faster than that anyway.
Transient response is an important parameter for a regulator since
it shows how much it will allow the
voltage to vary if the load impedance
Performance
As the Breadboard PSU is based
heavily on the circuit of the Arduino
PSU, we knew it would work well.
Still, we have produced a few scope
grabs to give you an idea of what to
expect.
The response to a current limiting
event is critical to any bench supply’s
siliconchip.com.au
timebase = sec
Scope 3: this scope grab shows a series of load changes from 250mA to 500mA
to 750mA to 1A and back to 250mA, with the worst deviation being under
100mV. We made these measurements directly at the output of the PSU. In
practice, when using a breadboard, the variation is about three times greater
due to the resistance of the breadboard conductors.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 35
Scope 4: a close-up of the 250mA500mA transition in Scope 3. There
is a bit of overshoot, but it’s close to
being symmetrical.
checking that the pin 1 marking dots
on the part and silkscreen line up.
Tack one lead, then gently solder the
remaining pins if all is still aligned
(use a magnifier to check).
The solder fillets should form easily
if you have the right amount of solder
and flux. Use the braid to wick up any
excess solder that might form bridges
between the pins.
CON2 is a surface-mounting USB
socket that locks into place with tabs
on its underside. Apply flux and carefully solder the two longer pads for
power. After that, solder the larger
mechanical tabs on the sides of the
socket.
The two current shunt resistors are
on the reverse of the PCB. Align them
within their pads and tack one lead.
Adjust the position so that the part is
squarely within the silkscreen markings. Then solder the other lead and
refresh the first lead if necessary.
Fit the capacitors now if you are
using SMD parts. There are three different values and they are all spread
around the PCB. Work with one value
at a time to avoid mixing them up.
At this point, clean up any excess
flux using an appropriate solvent. Be
sure to let it dry thoroughly as many
such solvents can be flammable.
A good strategy for the remaining
parts is to work from the lowest profile
components up. Start with the resistors, as they are all mounted flat against
the PCB. There are 16 around the PCB;
check the silkscreen values against the
resistors before soldering. A multimeter is the most reliable way to check
the values as the colour markings can
sometimes be ambiguous.
Fit the solitary diode D1 next. It
is installed near the USB socket and
should have its cathode band close
to the USB socket. If using throughhole capacitors, fit them next, checking the silkscreen marking against the
part marking.
Then install the two op amps. Their
pin 1 markings should align with the
silkscreen and face to the left of the
PCB. You could use sockets, although
a socket for IC2 might foul the heatsink for Q1; check first before fitting
it. It’s generally acceptable to solder
them directly to the PCB as you should
not need to swap them unless they are
faulty, which is unlikely.
There are three TO-92 parts; the two
smaller transistors, Q2 and Q4, and
voltage regulator REG1. Solder them
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The underside of the
Breadboard PSU. The wires
were just for prototyping and aren’t
required on the final board, see Fig.2.
changes fast. Scope 3 shows how the
output voltage shifts with a series of
load changes from 250mA to 500mA
to 750mA to 1A and back to 250mA.
As you can see, the change in output
voltage is small, well under 100mA at
1A compared to no load.
Scope 4 shows a close-up of the
transition from 250mA to 500mA in
Scope 3. There are brief spikes of
+300/−375mV, but it quickly settles
to a steady voltage after about 300μs.
Construction
The Breadboard PSU is built on a
double-sided PCB coded 04112221
that measures 99 x 54mm, as shown
in Fig.2.
Apart from the USB socket (CON2)
and the current shunts, all parts can be
through-hole types. It could have been
smaller if we’d used more surface-
mounting parts, but we would still
need to leave room for the potentiometers and heatsinks for the transistors.
While this project is useful for
beginners, constructors will need
reasonable soldering skills as most
shunt monitor ICs are only available
as SMDs, and quad shunt monitor IC1
has fairly closely-spaced leads. Still,
it is not that hard to solder with the
right tools, a gentle touch and a bit of
patience.
We’ve designed the PCB to accept
either through-hole or surface mounting capacitors. So, if you have suitable
36
Silicon Chip
SMD capacitors, you should fit them
along with the other surface mounting parts.
While Fig.2 shows SMD capacitors,
our photos reveal we built the prototype with through-hole types. Note
that SMD ceramics are usually cheaper
than equivalent through-hole caps.
We’ve extended the pads for the
smaller SMD parts to ease assembly.
You might get away with simply using
a fine-tipped iron, but flux and solder
wicking braid will definitely help.
Start with IC1, which has the smallest leads of any of the SMDs. Apply
flux to its PCB pads and align the part,
timebase = ms
in now, making sure to orientate them
correctly and don’t get them mixed up.
Fit the various headers and jumpers next, but leave CON3 and CON4 to
last as they are fitted under the PCB.
Check Fig.2 and our photos to see what
goes where.
Use three-way headers for the two
three-way jumpers, JP1 and JP2. Slot
them in place, solder one pin and
check that the pins are perpendicular
to the PCB surface before soldering
the remaining pins. Leave the jumper
shunts off until testing has been completed.
The remaining connectors on the top
of the PCB (CON5-CON9) are all SIL
socket types. It’s even more critical to
mount them perpendicular to the PCB
as they are designed to plug into a second PCB mounted above.
The two larger transistors, Q1 and
Q3, need heatsinks. Bend the leads
back around 7mm from the body and
thread the leads into the PCB holes.
Slip the heatsinks in behind the transistors and secure both the transistor
and heatsink to the PCB with an 8mm
M3 screw on each.
A thin layer of thermal paste on
the underside of the transistor tabs is
optional, but will help with heat transfer. Add the washer and tighten the nut
firmly to position the transistor and
heatsink neatly and squarely. Then
you can solder and trim the leads.
The remaining larger parts on the
top of the PCB should be easy enough;
just take care that they are neat. CON1
is adjacent to the CON2 USB socket
and the four potentiometers are along
one edge of the PCB.
You can fit the knobs now. For
splined shafts, dial the potentiometers
to their midpoints so that the slot is
horizontal. Push on the knob so that
the indicator points straight up, also
at its midpoint. Then wind the knob
anti-clockwise to its minimum position, so it is safe for testing.
We’ve used red knobs for the current
limiting pots (VR3 and VR4) and green
knobs (VR1 and VR2) for the voltage
setting. Our kits will offer that option
and other colour combinations; you
can choose whichever you prefer.
Fit the tapped spacers now as these
form the legs at one end of the Breadboard PSU and will show you how
much clearance you have to mount
MOD1.
MOD1 is mounted to the underside
of the PCB near CON1 and CON2.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the Breadboard PSU is meant to be compact, so the PCB is pretty
packed with components. CON3 and CON4 are fitted under the PCB to
connect directly to a breadboard, while the two current-measuring resistors
and boost module MOD1 are also on the underside. CON5-CON9 are mainly
for fitting the display module. You can omit MOD1 and CON2 if you only
plan to use the DC input at CON1.
Since it covers the solder pads for
some top-side components, ensure
you haven’t missed any parts. Trim
any leads in that area short, so there
is ample clearance.
Orientate the module according to
the VIN and VOUT markings on the
PCB. Check the polarity too, as we
have seen some variants of the MT3608
modules that have the connections
reversed.
Then solder it in place using short
lead off-cuts through the pads on both
boards. Make sure it doesn’t protrude
further than the spacers; otherwise,
it will carry the weight at this end of
the PCB.
Also make sure that the underside
of the module is not shorting against
Australia's electronics magazine
any leads, then trim the leads that are
holding the module.
Finally, fit CON3 and CON4. These
can be aligned by pushing the header
pins into the breadboard’s power rail
and then resting the Breadboard PSU
PCB in place. We’ve aligned the positive pins with the red markings on the
breadboard. Push everything down flat
and then solder the ends of the header
pins from above.
Testing
It’s easy to run a few tests to verify
everything is in order. You’ll need a
multimeter to measure a few different
voltages for testing. All are referred to
ground; the shell of CON2 (the mini
USB socket) or pin 4 of IC2 or IC3 are
December 2022 37
good places to make this connection.
The following three paragraphs
assume you have fitted MOD1. If
you’ve left it off, skip them.
Leave JP1 and JP2 off and connect
USB power to CON2. You should see
5V at the right-hand end (USB) of JP2
and the output from the boost module at the right-hand end (BST) of JP1.
Adjust the output from the boost
module to be 15V or lower. If you know
what your maximum working voltage
will be, set this around 2V higher. A
lower voltage will reduce dissipation
in the transistors.
If you don’t see the expected voltages, then check around CON2 and
MOD1.
Disconnect USB power and apply
a suitable supply to CON1. This can
be anything from 7V to 15V; CON1 is
configured for a positive tip as that
arrangement is the most common.
The left-hand end of JP1 (JACK) will
have a slightly lower voltage than the
input at CON1 due to diode D1. If you
see nothing there, the diode or supply
might have the wrong polarity.
You should see about 5V on the lefthand end (REG) of JP2. If not, the problem is likely with REG1.
If all is well, connect your preferred
power supply and set JP1 and JP2
to suit. In practice, that means both
jumper shunts across the left and centre pins for power at the DC jack, or
both jumper shunts across the right
and centre pins for USB power.
Our photos show the jumpers set
up for power being applied at the DC
jack, although other combinations may
be possible.
You should now be able to test the
outputs with a multimeter. The leftmost potentiometers adjust CON3,
which is next to them. The other
potentiometers adjust CON4.
Move VR2 and VR4 (the current
adjust potentiometers) slightly above
their lowest position; otherwise, the
output is completely shut off. Then
slowly increase VR1 and VR3 and
check that the voltage changes. The
maximum voltage will be reached
well before the clockwise position
on the potentiometers and will be
around 1V below the voltage selected
by JP1.
Using it
SC6571 Kit ($40)
Includes all the parts listed above. There is a choice of knob colours: red +
green, yellow + cyan or orange + white (two of each colour).
A kit is also available for the Display Adaptor; see its parts list on page 45 for
details (Cat SC6572, $50 + postage).
Once it’s plugged into a breadboard,
there’s not much more to using the
Breadboard PSU. Use the potentiometers to adjust the voltages and current
limits as needed.
With legs fitted at the end near CON1
and CON2, the Breadboard PSU rests
on CON3 and CON4 on a breadboard at
the other end. It’s designed to be used
more or less in the raw state.
If you don’t plan to fit the display,
you could use extra tapped spacers
to mount a sheet of card or plastic
above the exposed components for
protection.
The transistors operate in linear
mode, so they will dissipate quite a
bit of power, depending on the settings and supply voltage. If the Breadboard PSU is current limiting into a
short circuit, the dissipation will be
at its highest.
The provided heatsinks are suitable
for up to a few watts, so with a 15V
supply, you can set the current limit
up to around 200mA without worrying about overheating the transistors.
Even at higher dissipation levels, as
long as you monitor the current and
switch off the supply if it’s drawing
more than expected, it should survive
brief overloads.
For higher currents, especially if
you only need much lower voltages,
you should consider a lower input
voltage to reduce transistor dissipation.
As we mentioned earlier, we have
also designed an add-on display module, as shown in the lead photo. It provides readouts of the set and actual
currents and voltages. Its operation
and construction are shown in detail
starting on page 40 of this issue.
The display module can also estimate transistor dissipation by monitoring the voltages and currents, so it
can help avoid situations that could
overheat the transistors.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Dual-Channel Breadboard PSU
1 double-sided PCB coded 04112221, 99mm x 54mm
1 PCB-mounting 2.1mm inner diameter barrel socket (CON1)
1 SMD mini-USB socket (CON2)
2 2-way pin headers, 2.54mm pitch (CON3, CON4)
2 6-way female socket headers (CON5, CON6)
3 3-way female socket header (CON7-CON9)
2 3-way pin headers with jumper shunts (JP1, JP2)
2 12mm-long M3-tapped spacers
4 M3 × 8mm machine screws
2 M3 hex nuts
2 M3 shakeproof washers
2 small TO-220 finned heatsinks (no larger than 20 × 20 × 10mm)
1 MT3608 boost module (MOD1) [SC4437]
4 10kW 9mm linear potentiometer and knobs to suit (VR1-VR4)
[Jaycar RP8510 & HK773x]
4 short component lead off-cuts or pieces of wire (for mounting MOD1)
Semiconductors
1 INA4180A1IPWR quad current shunt monitor, TSSOP-14 (IC1)
2 LMC6482 dual rail-to-rail CMOS op amps, DIP-8 (IC2, IC3)
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D1)
2 MJE3055 60V 10A NPN transistors, TO-220 (Q1, Q3) [Jaycar ZT2280]
2 BC547 45V 100mA NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q2,Q4) [Jaycar ZT2152]
1 78L05 5V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG1) [Jaycar ZV1539]
Capacitors (all SMD M3216/1206 X5R/X7R or MKT/ceramic radial)
8 10μF 16V
7 100nF 50V
4 1nF 50V
Resistors (all 1/4W axial 1% metal film except as noted)
4 100kW
3 51kW
7 10kW
2 100W
2 100mW M6432/2512 1W SMD
38
Silicon Chip
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Tim Blythman’s
Display Adaptor for the
BREADBOARD PSU
The Dual Channel Breadboard PSU is compact and handy for prototyping. It
slots straight into a breadboard’s power rails and can run from a plugpack
or USB supply. The Display Adaptor attaches to the Breadboard PSU
and displays lots of handy data, such as the set and actual voltages and
currents. It even has extra voltmeter and ammeter channels to help you
analyse your prototype!
T
he Breadboard PSU is a compact
unit that plugs into a breadboard, providing two voltage adjustable current-limited supply rails. It’s
a handy tool for prototyping and testing, but by itself, you won’t know what
voltages you’ve set or how much current is being drawn.
This add-on module solves that by
providing readouts of the setpoint and
actual voltage and current for each
channel. Since it uses a microcontroller with many analog inputs, we have
added extra voltage and current monitoring channels that give you a lot of
flexibility.
We’ve also included a pair of bi-
colour LEDs to provide status indications and a piezo buzzer to sound
alerts. It even calculates an estimate
of the dissipation that’s occurring in
the transistors in the Breadboard PSU,
so you can avoid burning them out.
The PSU Display Adaptor simply
mounts directly above the Breadboard
PSU and doesn’t take up any extra
bench space.
Display Adaptor
When we designed the Breadboard
PSU, we realised it would be pretty
easy to add extra circuitry to monitor
its operation. This is part of the reason for the numerous headers on the
Breadboard PSU. Voltages are applied
to pins on those headers that are proportional to voltages and currents
in the circuit, making it easy for an
Features & Specifications
∎ Uses a common 20x4 character backlit LCD
∎ Shows 11 statistics
∎ Four independent voltages and two currents displayed
∎ 100mV resolution on voltages, 10mA resolution on currents
∎ Typically 1% accurate, can be calibrated
∎ Includes indicator LEDs and over-current warning buzzer
∎ Shows dissipation estimate for PSU transistors
∎ Stacks on top of Breadboard PSU for minimal clutter
40
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
add-on board to monitor the status.
Fig.3 shows the circuit of the Display Adaptor. It won’t do much without the Breadboard PSU, so the components have been numbered to follow
on from that circuit, except for CON5CON9, which form the inter-board connections and are effectively common
to both boards.
We’ll also refer to parts on the Breadboard PSU, so you might need to refer
to that circuit (Fig.1 on page 32).
Power for the Display Adaptor
comes in via CON7, which has connections to ground, the 15V rail and
the 5V rail from the PSU. It effectively
combines the inputs from CON1 and
CON2 on that board.
The Display Adaptor only needs a
5V rail to operate, so REG2 is a 7805
linear 5V regulator accompanied by
100μF input and output capacitors.
This larger TO-220 type regulator has
been mainly chosen to provide the
higher current needed to drive the LED
display backlight.
Jumper JP3 allows sourcing power
from REG2 or the USB connection if
preferred, but we recommend that
this jumper be set to the REG position.
That’s because the regulator’s output
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: this circuit interfaces with that of the Breadboard PSU (Fig.1 on page 32) via CON5-CON9. CON7 provides power
to the Display Adaptor, while CON5 and CON6 supply the voltages measured by the microcontroller IC4. CON8 and
CON9 feed the two extra currents that can be measured between the two PCBs.
will be much more accurate and consistent than a USB supply.
IC4 is a 44-pin PIC16F18877 microcontroller, chosen for its numerous
input/output (I/O) pins. It’s effectively
the same part used in the USB Cable
Tester from November & December
2021 (siliconchip.au/Series/374), but
in a compact TQFP package, which
saves a lot of space.
IC4 has two 5V and two ground
connections, each pair bypassed by
a 100nF capacitor. The in-circuit
serial programming (ICSP) pins are
taken to CON13 for programming and
siliconchip.com.au
debugging the microcontroller. If you
have a pre-programmed microcontroller, CON13 does not need to be fitted.
There is also a 10kW pullup resistor
on IC4’s MCLR pin to prevent spurious resets.
One of the great things about the
PIC16F18877 is that its ports and pins
are highly interchangeable. While it
might look like a complicated chip
with many pins, most PCB traces simply fan out in the required direction to
the nearest connection point.
Practically all I/O pins are internally
connected to the microcontroller’s
Australia's electronics magazine
ADC (analog-to-digital converter)
peripheral, so we can use them to read
and monitor external voltages.
Nine such voltages come from the
Breadboard PSU through CON5 and
CON6. Eight of these correspond to the
actual and setpoint (target) voltages for
the current and voltage of each of the
two PSU channels.
The remaining voltage to monitor is
a divided version of the so-called 15V
rail, allowing it to be measured too.
This is handy to know as it is the DC
supply for the PSU outputs and will
dictate such things as the maximum
December 2022 41
Make sure to check components for clearance with the LCD when
assembling the Display Adaptor PCB.
output voltage. You might find this
handy to monitor if you’re running
the Breadboard PSU from a battery and
want to check that it’s not going flat.
This reading is also used in the calculations to determine the dissipation in the Breadboard PSU’s power
transistors.
Using a battery is an easy way to get
a floating (ie, not connected to Earth)
power supply and is something that
the Arduino Programmable PSU could
not do without being connected to a
laptop computer running on its own
battery.
Handy additional inputs
Four more analog voltages are monitored that are derived from the four
51kW/10kW voltage dividers connected to four-way header CON11.
These are the same ratios used on the
Breadboard PSU, giving the same nominal 30.5V scale against a 5V reference.
You can use these four independent
voltage channels to check and monitor your breadboard prototype.
Using the same divider ratios mean
that a single (nominal) calibration factor can be used for all voltage inputs.
The input impedance at these pins is
much lower than a multimeter, but we
think they’ll still be convenient when
you need to check multiple voltages in
your circuit simultaneously.
CON12 is another four-way header
that provides the facility to monitor
two currents in your circuit. Each
requires two connections as the current needs to pass in, go through the
current sense resistor and back out to
the circuit under test.
The arrangement is the same used
for monitoring the output currents of
the Breadboard PSU. A voltage appears
across the 100mW shunt resistor in
each channel when current passes
through them. That voltage is amplified by IC1 on the Breadboard PSU PCB
and returns to the Display Adaptor via
the third pins of CON8 & CON9, to
be read by a further two ADC inputs.
We can do this because IC1 is a
quad-channel device and only two of
its channels are used by the Breadboard PSU hardware.
The voltages on the current monitor inputs must be no higher than
the INA4180’s 26V limit. That seems
unlikely, given that the circuit on the
breadboard is presumably powered
by the maximum 15V outputs of the
Breadboard PSU.
The 20-column, four-row alphanumeric LCD module connects to the circuit via header socket CON10. 10kW
trimpot VR5 wired as a voltage divider
provides a contrast control voltage into
pin 3 of the LCD.
500W trimpot VR6 is wired as a variable resistor to allow the LED backlight
brightness to be adjusted. This can
save power by dimming the backlight
when running from a battery.
Six control signals go between
CON10 and IC4 to control the LCD
module in four-bit mode. IC4’s digital
outputs drive these pins to clock data
and commands into the LCD.
CON10 also provides power for the
LCD controller and backlight LED, the
contrast voltage generated by VR5 and
provides a connection to pull the RD/
WR pin low. The micro doesn’t read
from the display controller, saving an
I/O pin.
Another four digital output pins of
the micro drive bi-colour LEDs (LED1
& LED2) via 1kW dropping resistors.
Each LED uses two I/O pins and,
depending on which is high and which
is low, either the red or green LED element (or neither) is lit.
Finally, another digital output is
used to drive piezo sounder SPK1.
Firmware
Microcontroller IC4’s main task is
to read the raw analog voltages on
various pins, scale them according to
a calibration factor, and display them
on the LCD. Screen 1 shows the resulting display.
The first line shows the parameters
set by the potentiometers on the Breadboard PSU, indicated by an “S”. These
are the CON3 voltage (as set by VR1),
CON3 current (VR3), CON4 voltage
(VR2) and CON4 current (VR4) targets.
As the current-limiting circuitry on
the Breadboard PSU pulls down the
reference voltages using Q2 and Q4,
Screen 1: everything you need
to know is on this screen. To fit
everything in, it cycles through
the incoming supply voltage and
transistor dissipations in the bottomright corner, as shown in the inset.
42
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the displayed voltage can dip slightly
(up to around 0.2V) during current
limiting.
The value of the 100kW resistors
connected to the wipers of VR1 and
VR2 is a compromise between this
side-effect and providing a low impedance path for the control voltage. So
take care not to set these voltages while
current limiting is active.
Note that the “A” (for amps) at the
end of the first line is implied due to
the space needed for the “S” at the
start. We’ve also used custom narrow
characters for the units to provide
visual separation. These characters
use the display’s character generator
RAM feature.
The second line shows the corresponding measured values, marked by
the leading “A” for “actual”. For the
most part, the voltages should match
the setpoints except when the current
limit is active, in which case the current should match its setpoint.
The third line shows the ‘bonus’
voltage readings from CON11, while
the first two readings on the fourth line
are the currents measured at CON12.
The small icons that follow indicate
whether audible alarms are active for
the CON3 and CON4 outputs, respectively.
The remaining three statistics share
the last five character slots in the
lower-right corner of the screen. The
dissipation in each main regulator
transistor is calculated as the CON3
or CON4 output voltage subtracted
from 15V rail voltage, multiplied by
the appropriate current.
The display cycles every two seconds between showing the 15V rail
voltage (which won’t necessarily be
15V) and the two calculated dissipation figures of Q1 and Q3 on the Breadboard PSU.
This is possible because the dissipation is expected to be in the range
of single digit (0-9) watts, so it can be
displayed very compactly. You can see
this in the Screen 1 inset. If the reading is above 9W, it is clamped to 9W
for simplicity.
Besides driving the display, which
takes up most of the microcontroller’s time, it also monitors pushbutton
switches S1-S3 and lights up LED1
and LED2 depending on the prevailing conditions.
The purpose of those switches and
LEDs will be described later, in the
section on using this unit. In brief, the
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buttons allow the audible alarm for
either channel to be toggled and all
the values displayed to be calibrated.
The LEDs indicate when either channel is in current limiting or otherwise
unable to achieve the desired voltage.
Construction
Start by fitting out the PCB for the
Display Adaptor, which measures 99
× 63mm and is coded 04112222, referring to overlay diagram Fig.4.
There are five surface-mounting
parts, but none are that difficult to handle. You should have flux and solder
wicking braid at the very least, as the
pins on IC4 are fairly close together.
Flux will help the solder flow in the
right places, and the braid will help
remove it if it gets where it shouldn’t.
We also recommend having tweezers, a fine-tipped soldering iron, good
illumination and a magnifier to help
you check your soldering.
Start by soldering the microcontroller, IC4. Lay down some flux on the
pads and align it on all four sides. The
TQFP part is a bit more fiddly than,
say, an SOIC part that only has pins
along two sides.
Roughly place it and check that the
pin 1 dot matches the PCB silkscreen.
Tack one pin in place and check that
it is flat and that all the pins are above
the correct pads. If not, apply heat to
the soldered pins and gently adjust the
chip’s position with tweezers until all
the pins are perfectly aligned.
Fig.4: the Display Adaptor is much the same size as the LCD module that
sits above it. Pin headers CON5-CON9 are fitted below this PCB to connect
to the Breadboard PSU. We also recommend that the ICSP header (if fitted)
go underneath the PCB to give clearance for the LCD. The LEDs are installed
last to align with the top of the LCD, while the trimpots and piezo should be
checked for clearance below the LCD.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 43
The Display Adaptor stacks above the Breadboard PSU to create a handy
device that simply plugs into the power rails of a breadboard. It’s much
more compact than a standard dual bench power supply, helps tidy unruly
wiring, and you won’t have to glance away while testing your prototype.
With parts like this which have
closely-spaced pins, try to keep the
iron away from the top of the pins
and work on where the pin touches
the PCB pad. That helps to avoid solder bridges forming between the pins.
With it aligned, go around and solder each pin, starting on the opposite
side from the pins you initially tacked.
Finish by retouching the first pin(s)
if necessary. Then use solder wick to
remove any bridges that have formed.
Some more flux and a touch from the
soldering iron can help tidy up any
joints that don’t look right.
Follow with the two 100nF capacitors near IC4, which are not polarised.
The shunt resistors are the other
surface-mounting parts; they will be
much easier due to their larger size.
Use a similar technique of soldering
one lead, checking for alignment and
then solder the other side.
With all the SMDs fitted, clean off
any flux residue using a flux remover
or alcohol (eg, isopropyl or methylated spirits) and a lint-free cloth and/
or Nylon brush. Allow it to dry fully
before proceeding.
You can then fit the through-hole
44
Silicon Chip
resistors. There are four different values, so check each part with a multimeter against the silkscreen printing
to confirm that the correct value is
placed in the correct location. Most of
them have values that are powers of
ten, so their markings will be similar,
but they will easily be distinguished
by a multimeter.
The two 100μF capacitors near
REG2 are polarised (the longer leads
go to the pads marked +) and must be
mounted on their sides to leave enough
clearance for the LCD to fit above. It’s
easiest to bend their leads before soldering. Check which way this will be
(based on the polarity), slot them into
place and confirm that the positive
marking aligns with the longer lead
before soldering.
Although the Breadboard PSU won’t
be subjected to much movement, there
is no harm in securing the capacitor
bodies to the PCB with a dab of neutral-
cure silicone sealant.
REG2 is fitted similarly to the transistors on the Breadboard PSU PCB.
Bend the leads back 90° around 7mm
from the body of the regulator, slot
them into the holes in the PCB and
Australia's electronics magazine
then slip the heatsink underneath.
Thread the machine screw through
from below and loosely secure it with
the washer and nut.
Adjust the regulator and heatsink
to be square and within the silkscreen
markings, then nip up the nut, being
careful not to twist the regulator.
The leads can then be soldered and
trimmed.
Solder the three-way header for JP3
now, then fit the jumper to the REG
position (across the top two pins),
unless you have configured the Breadboard PSU to use USB power.
Right-angle switches S1-S3 will
only fit one way, with their buttons
facing out from the PCB. Just check
that they are lined up neatly before
soldering.
CON11, CON12 and CON13 (if
needed) can be soldered next. We used
right-angle female headers for CON11
and CON12 as these will accept
jumper wires for prototyping. If you
can’t get right-angle types (they will
be included in our kit), you can carefully bend the pins of vertical types
before soldering.
We installed CON13 underneath the
Display Adaptor PCB as this gave the
best clearance to the adjacent spacer
for connecting a programmer. Check
our photos for how CON11, CON12
and CON13 look on our prototype.
Final assembly
Remove the screws and tapped spacers from the Breadboard PSU, then fit
the tapped spacers to the LCD module, so that we can use it to align and
check the next steps of the assembly.
Orientate the LCD module so that
the 16-way header is at upper left
with the display upward. If there are
text labels for the pins, these should
be the right way up. This is the normal orientation of the LCD module
as we describe the assembly in the
following.
The tapped spacers along the left
(top and bottom) and top right of the
LCD module should be secured with
the short (5-6mm) machine screws.
The spacer at lower right uses the
32-35mm machine screw as this forms
the top of a stack of three spacers.
Mount the trimpots similarly to
the switches. They will need to be
pushed down firmly against the PCB
to ensure they do not foul the LCD
module above. You can check this by
temporarily slotting the LCD module
siliconchip.com.au
above, using the longer machine screw
for alignment.
Then fit the piezo buzzer, making
sure to check the polarity markings.
Some of these devices are pretty tall;
check the clearance there too.
If you haven’t yet fitted the 16-way
header to the LCD module, do this
now. You can then use it to square up
the 16-way female header attached to
the Display Adaptor PCB that connects
to the LCD module. Solder the female
header to the Display Adaptor PCB,
then separate the two boards.
Temporarily fit three tapped spacers
above the Breadboard PSU PCB, with
short screws coming up from below.
This will allow you to align the headers from Display Adaptor PCB.
If you haven’t fitted CON5-CON9 to
the Breadboard PSU PCB, do that first.
Then slot the corresponding headers
into the top of them, rest the Display
Adaptor PCB over them, and solder
them while everything is aligned.
Separate the two PCBs and remove
the temporary spacers from the Breadboard PSU PCB.
The final components to be soldered to the Display Adaptor PCB are
the two LEDs; they are positioned to
poke over the top of the LCD module’s
PCB, making them just visible below
the display. So we will fit them after
the LCD module is fitted to the Display
Adaptor PCB.
The Display Adaptor PCB should
have six unoccupied M3 mounting
holes at this stage. The four in the corners are for the LCD above, so leave
them free.
Fit the other two ‘spare’ mounting holes with tapped spacers. Put a
tapped spacer below the one on the
left (between CON12 and CON13) and
secure it with a short machine screw
from above. The hole at upper right
(next to S1) should be fitted with the
20-25mm machine screw and secured
with a tapped spacer below.
Fit the LCD module to the Display
Adaptor and secure it with three short
machine screws into the tapped spacers with short screws at their other
ends. The bottom right corner can have
another tapped spacer threaded over
the 32-35mm screw that is already
fitted.
Orientate the LEDs so that they
light up red when the left-most lead
is more positive than the right. You
can use a multimeter on diode test
mode to check that, then solder the
siliconchip.com.au
LEDs so they protrude just above the
LCD module.
Now add the Breadboard PSU PCB
to the bottom of the stack. Check for
clearances and trim any leads that
might foul components below. If
things are still very close, you can
add some insulating material between
the two.
Secure the Breadboard PSU PCB
at its left-hand (breadboard) end by a
machine screw into the underside of
the tapped spacer. The last two tapped
spacers cover the two exposed screw
threads on the right to form the feet,
similarly to the bare Breadboard PSU.
This secures the other end of the PCB
stack and completes the assembly.
Powering it up
If you wish to tread cautiously
when applying power for the first
time, use a current-limited PSU set to
around 100mA or a 9V battery. Make
sure there isn’t anything connected to
CON3 or CON4.
The LCD backlight should light up,
but you might need to adjust the contrast trimpot VR5 to get a legible display. After that, it should look much
like Screen 1, although the displayed
values will probably differ.
Check that the voltage at bottom
right is about half a volt below the
supply at CON1. With nothing connected, it should cycle between the
input voltage and “0W 0W”.
Pressing S1 or S2 should toggle the
alert icons at lower right. If one of the
LEDs is red, the piezo should sound
when its alarm is unmuted. If this isn’t
the case, the LEDs may be reversed.
To check this, dial up the current
limit to about halfway; you should
get a reading of about 1.25A on the
top line. Set the voltages to their minimums. This results in a state where
the LEDs should definitely be green.
The easiest way to force a red LED
alarm state is to dial the voltage potentiometers to their maximum and the
current limits to their minimum. This
should also result in an audible alarm
from the piezo if the alarm is unmuted.
Parts List – Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor
1 double-sided PCB coded 04112222, measuring 99mm x 63mm
1 20×4 alphanumeric LCD with backlight (LCD1)
1 self-oscillating piezo transducer (SPK1)
1 10kW side-adjust trimpot (VR5) [Jaycar RT4016]
1 500W side-adjust trimpot (VR6) [Jaycar RT4008]
3 right-angle SPST tactile pushbutton (S1-S3)
2 6-way pin headers (CON5, CON6)
4 3-way pin headers (CON7-CON9, JP3)
1 jumper shunt (JP3)
1 16-way female header (CON10; for LCD1)
1 16-way header (for LCD1)
2 4-way right-angle female headers (CON11, CON12)
1 5-way right-angle pin header (CON13; optional, for ICSP)
1 small TO-220 finned flag heatsink
7 12mm-long M3 tapped spacers
1 M3 × 32-35mm panhead machine screw [Jaycar HP0418]
1 M3 × 20-25mm panhead machine screw [Jaycar HP0414]
7 M3 × 5-6mm panhead machine screws
1 M3 shakeproof washer
SC6572 Kit ($50)
1 M3 hex nut
Includes all the parts listed.
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18877-I/PT 8-bit microcontroller programmed
with 0411222B.HEX, TQFP-44 (IC4)
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator, TO-220 (REG2)
2 bi-colour red/green 3mm LEDs (LED1, LED2) [Jaycar ZD0248]
Capacitors
2 100μF 25V radial electrolytic
2 100nF 25V M3216/1206 X5R/X7R ceramic, radial ceramic or MKT
Resistors (all ¼W 1% axial except as noted)
4 51kW
5 10kW
2 1kW
1 100W
2 100mW M6432/2512 1W SMD
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 45
Finally, you can check that S3
cycles through the various calibration
screens. If that’s the case, then the Display Adaptor is working as expected.
If the LEDs show the wrong colour,
desolder them and swap their leads.
Calibration
In regular use, a single screen displays all applicable information, previously shown in Screen 1. This is
shown at power-up, so you can use
the Display Adaptor without pressing
any buttons.
If the readouts you see on the Display Adaptor are off by more than
5%, we recommend checking your
construction, as it should be closer
than that without calibration. Start
by checking all the divider resistors.
The 1% tolerance components specified will be more than adequate for
most purposes and within the resolution of the displayed values, so calibration is optional.
Pressing S3 accesses the calibration
factors for all the displayed parameters, except the transistor dissipations,
which are set by their constituent voltages and currents. Each press of S3
simply cycles through each in turn
until you return to Screen 1.
Screen 2 shows a typical calibration page. The calibration factors are
displayed in the same order as on the
main screen, but the second line of text
also describes the parameter.
The third line shows the calculated
value of that parameter using the current calibration factor, which is seen
on the line below. The calibration
factor is changed using S1 and S2 to
adjust up and down.
Thus, the simplest way to calibrate
is to use a multimeter to measure the
parameter (voltage or current) and
then adjust the calibration factor until
they agree.
Because all voltages use the same
51kW/10kW divider, their default calibration factors are the same. Similarly, all currents have a different corresponding calibration factor.
Use a multimeter to read the voltage or current you wish to calibrate.
Note that for currents, you will need
to apply some sort of load and make
sure that current limiting is active to
check the setpoints.
Select the appropriate screen, then
adjust the calibration factor up or
down using S1 and S2, respectively,
until the multimeter reading matches
the displayed reading.
Take care that you have the correct
screen, as there are quite a few different parameters. After that, return to
the main screen and check that the
displayed values are consistent.
The final calibration page (Screen
Screen 2: all the main parameters shown on the main screen can be calibrated
using these screens. Simply read off the actual voltage with a multimeter and
use S1 and S2 to adjust the displayed voltage until it matches.
Screen3: the calibration factors can be saved to non-volatile EEPROM by
pressing S1 and S2 simultaneously on this page.
46
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
3) allows the calibration factors to
be saved to EEPROM, meaning they
will be stored permanently for future
use. Simply press S1 and S2 together
on this page to permanently save the
data. A message will be displayed to
confirm this has happened.
Using it
From now, the Display Adaptor simply displays the various voltages and
currents set and used by the Breadboard PSU. You can mute and unmute
the alarms with S1 and S2.
The power display at lower right
that alternates with the supply voltage will warn of conditions that might
overheat the Breadboard PSU’s transistors. The display reads 0W-9W for
each channel, as that’s all it can show
in the available space. The design is
intended to handle up to 3W continuously and up to 5W for short periods.
If you see these creeping up any
higher, shut down the circuit to avoid
damage to the Breadboard PSU.
With everything set up, you
shouldn’t need to do anything with
the Display Adaptor except read what
it displays.
On the main screen, S1 and S2 toggle the audible alarms for the CON3
and CON4 outputs, respectively. A
speaker icon with an “x” indicates
that the alarm is muted, which is the
power-up default.
Since LED1 sits above VR1 and
LED2 sits above VR2, each LED corresponds to one channel of the Breadboard PSU. Usually, the green LED
is lit for each channel. If IC4 detects
that the actual voltage is not near the
setpoint voltage, it changes the LED
to red. In practice, this means that
the current limiting has activated,
although it can also happen if the voltage potentiometers are set above the
DC input voltage.
If the alarm for the corresponding
channel is not muted, the piezo sounds
in short chirps when the corresponding LED is red. That should get your
attention without being as annoying
as if it sounded constantly.
While the Breadboard PSU lacks an
on/off or load disconnect switch, it’s
quite easy to pull out the side plugged
into the breadboard, which disconnects it. It would be a good idea to
do that immediately, if you notice
the transistor dissipation values are
unexpectedly high or something else
is wrong.
SC
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dual-channel oscilloscope
Jaycar QC1938
An oscilloscope is one
of the most useful tools on an
electronics workbench. Jaycar’s Digitech
QC1938 100MHz DSO (digital storage oscilloscope)
was released a few months ago, and they sent us a unit to try out.
J
aycar has recently started selling the
QC1938 two-channel, 100MHz DSO
with a 1GSa/s sampling rate and 8MSa
(megasample) storage. Having digital
storage brings many advantages that
we will describe shortly.
Some of its more noteworthy features include a dual display (zoom)
mode, numerous serial protocol
decoders and an arbitrary waveform
generator. The display is a 7in (18cm)
diagonal TFT LCD with a resolution
of 800 × 480 pixels. It does not have a
touchscreen interface.
Our loaned review unit came in
standard retail packaging, so our experience is the same as if we had bought
it. It comes with a single 10:1 probe,
a pair of BNC-alligator leads, an IEC
power cable, a USB cable and a software CD. The software is also downloadable from the Jaycar website product page for those without an optical
drive.
The unit comes well-packed and
is relatively compact at 32cm wide,
15cm tall and 11cm deep. The power
cable plugs into a recessed receptacle
48
Silicon Chip
on the left side, meaning you can push
it back against a wall.
The QC1938 feels sturdy. The
numerous controls mean it could not
be much smaller, except perhaps by
being slightly less deep. A folding
handle is recessed into the top, and it
has ample vent holes.
It would definitely be nice to have a
second probe included, given that this
is a dual-channel oscilloscope. Still,
the BNC-alligator leads are usable for
modest frequencies (eg, audio or lowspeed digital signals), but definitely
not up to the full 100MHz. You can
purchase a second probe from Jaycar (Cat QC1902) for $39.95, rated at
60MHz on the 10:1 setting or 6MHz
on the 1:1 setting.
Documentation
We had a good read through the user
manual to get an idea of what to expect.
There are numerous features listed that
we thought sounded handy. We do a
lot of digital or mixed digital/analog
Review by Tim Blythman
Australia's electronics magazine
designs, so serial protocol decoding is
one feature we’d use a lot.
The protocols include UART, LIN,
CAN, I2C and SPI, which covers most
of the protocols that we use. As we
noted in our review of PicoScope
6426E (October 2021; siliconchip.au/
Article/15068), having an ample sampling depth makes it easier to decode
longer communication sequences.
Like many modern digital oscilloscopes, the QC1938 has a USB port;
two, in fact. A USB-B socket at the
back allows the oscilloscope to be
connected to a host PC. We’ll investigate this feature and the accompanying software later.
A USB-A socket on the front allows
a USB drive to be connected. You can
use this to save screenshots and perform firmware updates. It turns out
that the QC1938 is actually a small
Linux computer equipped with custom hardware allowing it to act as an
oscilloscope.
The waveform generator can deliver
sine and square waves, noise, or even
an arbitrary waveform of up to 4096
siliconchip.com.au
The screen is
large and bright,
so much so
that we had no
trouble viewing
it outdoors.
Adjacent to the
screen are the
basic oscilloscope
controls, while the
other features are
accessed from a
variety of buttons
along the top and
side of the front
panel.
All the included
accessories are
shown here. While
the alligator clip
leads limit the
usable frequency,
they are sometimes
easier to connect to
circuit points than
a proper probe.
samples. The waveform can also be
amplitude- or frequency-modulated
(AM/FM).
Another features that we think will
be quite handy is the dual window
(zoom) view, which shows the entire
waveform on the top half of the screen
and a zoomed subsample in the lower
half.
The waveform output socket is
also labelled as the external trigger.
This shouldn’t be a problem as long
as you remember whether this socket
is an input (external trigger) or output (waveform generator) at any given
time. Still, it would be nice to have
two separate connectors.
The QC1938 has foldable feet so
that the oscilloscope can be tilted up
slightly and gives a much better view
of the screen and access to the controls
than it would on a flat bench. The rear
feet are rubberised and are sufficient
to keep it from sliding around.
There is also a DEFAULT SETUP
button that reverts the oscilloscope to
its default settings, in case you have
gotten it into a state where you can’t
figure out how to change it back.
Hands-on testing
After spending a bit of time getting
accustomed to the various controls,
siliconchip.com.au
we found that the QC1938 is very easy
and intuitive to use.
There is a delay of about 10 seconds
after powering it on before it is ready,
which seems reasonable. For example,
the more expensive Rigol MSO5354
mixed signal oscilloscope takes up
to a minute. We reviewed that unit in
the February 2019 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/11404).
A self-calibration routine is available via the UTILITY menu. When
we first ran this, it appeared to need
a few cycles before settling and completing calibration; subsequent calibrations took about two minutes. It’s
recommended that this is done after
the oscilloscope has warmed up and
stabilised.
The controls, visible in the front
photo, have a variety of functions, but
all work in a uniform fashion. Pressing
one of the buttons shows a list of soft
options alongside the F1-F5 buttons
on the display.
Items that use the soft menu include
MATH, SAVE/RECALL, MEASURE,
ACQUIRE, UTILITY, CURSOR, DISPLAY, TRIGGER, DECODE and WAVE
GEN. This covers most of the features
beyond the basic functions.
Pressing F0 at any time hides the
soft menu options, while F6 flips to
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the second page of options if available.
The V0 knob allows numerical soft
menu options to be dialled in easily.
Several of the buttons light up, and
where appropriate, they match their
colour on the display. For example,
the CH1 trace is displayed in yellow
and the CH1 menu button is lit up in
orange (near enough to yellow) when
CH1 is active. CH2 is similarly green.
The MATH-generated trace is purple
and is controlled by the MATH MENU
button, which lights up purple. MATH
functions include FFT (fast Fourier
transform spectral analysis), add, subtract, multiply and divide.
The RUN/STOP button is either red
or green to indicate whether continuous triggering is occurring. The WAVE
GEN button lights up blue when it is
active.
The MEASURE button brings up
over 30 parameters, such as frequency,
amplitude and duty cycle, measured
from the displayed waveform. While
you might often be interested in a
handful of these, being able to quickly
see many different parameters is
handy too. A small subset can be chosen to be displayed along the bottom
of the oscilloscope display.
The most difficult part of the learning curve for this oscilloscope is
December 2022 49
becoming familiar with the menu
locations of all the options, but they
are all quite intuitive once you have
found them.
Serial protocol decoding
Scope 1: despite the apparent noisiness of this 12MHz SPI signal, the QC1938 has
correctly decoded it. The decoded date is in purple below the green trace, and
uses lower case characters for hexadecimal digits. It is odd that the hexagonal
‘box’ containing the decoded data does not bracket the full eight clock cycles.
Scope 2: this shows the oscilloscope decoding three consecutive serial bytes at
460400 baud, the fastest UART data it can decode. The protocol decoders can also
trigger the scope on a data match, a handy way to synchronise it to other events.
Scope 3: the zoom view offers a split screen and is a good way to view a small
part of a waveform without twiddling back and forth between time scales.
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Australia's electronics magazine
We hooked up the QC1938 to the
SPI lines on an LCD BackPack to test
the protocol decoding. We used the
probe on the clock line for CH1 (since
this is the faster signal) and one of the
BNC-alligator leads for data on CH2.
Initially, we could not see any
decoded data no matter what we tried.
We contacted Jaycar, and they determined that this was due to a firmware
bug that was fixed in a later version.
The oscilloscope we received originally had version 3204 of the firmware
(the current version is listed under the
UTILITY menu). The update to version
3205 only took a couple of minutes.
Jaycar has told us that this updated
firmware file will be available for
download on their website. So if you
receive a QC1938 oscilloscope with
version 3204 of the firmware, you
should update it.
After that, we had no trouble getting
the protocol decoding working with
our SPI data.
By the way, we also experienced
a couple of ‘freezes’ with the older
firmware, where the oscilloscope randomly stopped responding to user
input. We didn’t experience that anymore after the firmware update.
You can see in Scope 1 that the
clock line is cleaner than the data
line (because we’re using the proper
probe). The decoded value is shown
below. We know this data is correct as
the 0x2A (2a) command is regularly
used by the BackPack software.
The 12MHz signal shown is as fast
as we could successfully decode using
the BNC-alligator leads, with faster
signals returning corrupted data. So
you will need a second probe to work
with faster SPI signals.
Note that decoding of SPI data is
pretty limited on any two-channel
oscilloscope; it would be preferable to
have extra channels available for connecting other data channels and slave
select lines. If you frequently probe SPI
buses, a four-channel oscilloscope or
dedicated logic analyser might be a
better choice.
Scope 2 shows UART data being
decoded at 460400 baud – this is
the fastest UART baud rate that the
QC1938 can decode. We had no
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problems with UART decoding, even
after trying several baud rates.
Protocol decoding also requires you
to set a matching trigger setting; these
seem to duplicate the decoding settings, but mostly need to be changed
separately. It is also necessary to set
the threshold when multiple channels
are involved in the decoding, such as
I2C and SPI.
The oscilloscope has handy features
like being able to match on specific
data values, including exact matches,
mismatches and comparisons. This
makes it much easier to sift through
large amounts of data.
The sample depth appears to be
fixed at 4kSa when decoding is active,
so the full 8MSa is not available. We
think the protocol decoding would be
better if it could use the entire sample memory, as it would allow longer
sequences to be decoded.
Zoom view
The zoom feature is a simple and
effective way of inspecting a waveform closely. It’s activated by pressing
down on the timebase knob; there are
markings on the oscilloscope controls
to this effect.
When zoom is active, the screen is
split; the full waveform is shown in
the top half, and a zoomed version is
below. A window over the full waveform shows the portion shown in the
zoomed version. You can see what this
looks like in Scope 3.
The timebase and horizontal position controls are then used to change
the extent and position of the zoomed
window. It all works intuitively,
with the lower window showing the
zoomed graticule spacing and a time
offset.
We thought it was handy to view
a longer waveform and also be able
to inspect it closely. Our only complaint is that the zoom and time offset
settings are reset when you leave the
zoomed view.
USB interfaces and software
The included software is called
HantekDSO2000; the QC1938 appears
very similar to the Hantek model
DSO2D10. From what we could see,
only Windows software is provided;
we tested it on a Windows 11 machine.
The provided software includes a
DigitalScope program, which is the
virtual oscilloscope program that
interfaces to the QC1938 and a Wave
Editor program. WaveEditor is used to
generate files for the arbitrary waveform generator on the oscilloscope.
The included USB-A to USB-B
cable allows a host computer to be
connected to the USB-B socket at the
rear of the oscilloscope. Oddly, we
could not establish communication
through any of the USB 3.0 ports on
our computer. Interposing a USB 2.0
hub fixed this problem.
The USB port in the back of the
oscilloscope is not recessed like the
power socket, so using the USB socket
will eat into the space on your bench.
Screen 1 shows the software with
an active oscilloscope view. We found
that the software mostly echoed the
features and controls on the oscilloscope itself. The trace takes up most
of the window, with the controls compressed to a small region above.
When the software is controlling the
oscilloscope, its controls are disabled,
so we mostly preferred to use the oscilloscope in standalone mode without
the USB connection to a computer.
Screen 2 shows WaveEditor. It has
various settings for generating simple
waveforms such as sine, square and triangular waves. Waveforms can also be
drawn freehand or imported from and
exported to CSV (comma-separated
variable) format files, allowing manipulation by spreadsheet programs.
With that said, the inbuilt wave
generator can deliver several different
waveforms at an adjustable frequency
and amplitude and can AM or FM
modulate the output to produce complex waveforms without the hassle of
delving into WaveEditor.
The USB-A socket on the front of the
oscilloscope is for connecting a USB
flash drive. You can’t use it at the same
Screen 1: the supplied “DigitalScope” PC program can control the oscilloscope via a USB cable. The controls on the
oscilloscope are disabled when the USB interface is running, so we didn’t use this software much. It might be convenient
if you take a lot of screen grabs as they can be stored directly on the host computer.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 51
time as the other USB connection since
the controls are disabled.
As you might expect, it can be used
for exporting screen grabs. These are
transferred as uncompressed 24-bit
bitmaps (BMP) files. We prefer PNG
files as they are compressed (losslessly) and thus take less time and
space to move around, but storage
is cheap enough that it is not a big
problem.
Saving a screen grab is as simple
as pressing the “SAVE TO USB” button on the oscilloscope’s front panel.
Unfortunately, the oscilloscope does
not have a real-time clock, so it can’t
timestamp the grabs. Instead, the files
are stamped based on the time since
the oscilloscope was turned on, so
you can at least distinguish the order
within a given session.
Display configurations (real and
calculated trace scales and positions,
measured parameters) can also be
saved and recalled. There are internal
memory slots for this purpose, too, so
we would use this feature mainly for
different testing schemes.
Waveforms for the arbitrary waveform generator can also be transferred
to the oscilloscope as files via a USB
flash drive. As noted, these can be created in the WaveEditor program.
And as we found out earlier, firmware upgrades can be applied by copying the necessary upgrade file onto a
USB drive and starting the upgrade
process from the UTILITY menu.
Like many other oscilloscopes, the
most use we made of the USB feature
was to create screen grabs by saving
them to a USB flash drive, although
we occasionally uploaded waveforms
from the WaveEditor program.
The display and controls on the
oscilloscope itself are pretty good, so
we found little use for the host USB
interface, especially as the cable sticks
out the back and gets in the way.
Our evaluation
The main features of the QC1938
are laid out in a standard manner, so
they should be familiar even if you
are only familiar with the most basic
oscilloscopes.
There are a couple of missing features that would have been nice to
have, such as a real-time clock and
the ability to export PNG screen grabs.
While the former would require a
small amount of extra hardware, the
latter could possibly occur in the
future with a firmware upgrade.
The 100MHz bandwidth is ample for
almost anything we do, although you
need another oscilloscope probe to use
the full bandwidth on both channels.
Some of the values that are dialled
in using the V0 knob have a very broad
span and can take a while to select. It’s
a pity that it does not have a fine/coarse
adjustment option to speed that up.
The MEASURE and MATH displays
are very useful for gleaning extra information about a waveform.
There is some noticeable warmth
above the vent at the left-hand end of
the case, which is presumably where
the power supply is located adjacent
to the incoming mains. But we never
noticed it getting too hot to touch.
Summary
While we have some minor feature
requests that we’ve seen before on
other similar oscilloscopes, overall,
the QC1938 is an oscilloscope that
is easy to use and will do practically
everything the average user needs.
The 100MHz bandwidth is fairly
standard and covers many use cases,
although we definitely recommend
purchasing a second proper oscilloscope probe. We also recommend performing the firmware update straight
away if your oscilloscope is on firmware version 3204 or earlier.
This is certainly a good choice of
oscilloscope for reasonably advanced
users but also for anyone getting
started with oscilloscopes; it has the
features to make it useful for years to
come.
The standard inclusion of serial protocol decoders, a waveform generator,
a decent memory depth and zoom feature makes it good value at the price.
The QC1938 DSO is available from
Jaycar stores and online (www.jaycar.
com.au/p/QC1938) for $549, including
GST, at the time of writing. Adding the
second QC1902 oscilloscope probe
SC
brings the total to $588.95.
Screen 2: “WaveEditor” makes it very easy to create all sorts of arbitrary waveforms. They can be saved as files to be
copied over to the oscilloscope. As well as some basic presets, waveforms can be drawn or imported from CSV files.
52
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SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Neighbourhood network noise
Dave Thompson
This story isn’t about an electronic device that needs to be fixed; instead,
it is about some neighbours who needed to be ‘fixed’ and an electronic
device might have been the solution. These neighbours liked to make a
lot of noise, and my long suffering friend thought that some electronic
noise might just shut them up...
Back in the mid-1990s, I had the excellent fortune to
visit a pop-up James Bond museum in England. Many of
the props and spy devices dreamed up by the fictional Q
branch were featured.
That included watches with lasers and retracting garroting wire, lighters, cuff-links and pens with embedded ‘radio
transmitters’ and ‘trackers’ as well as other well-known
‘weapons’ such as Oddjob’s steel-rimmed bowler hat, Rosa
Klebb’s knife shoe, Scaramanga’s golden gun and more.
Of course, these are movie props designed to look good
on screen, and most don’t really work. Still, everybody
seems to love this type of thing and I am no exception.
I’ve made my fair share of ‘bugs’, trackers, ultrasonic doodads and other gadgets but nothing as far-fetched as those
Bond contraptions. These days, however, such things are
not so far beyond modern technology.
The other day, I watched a video of European armed
forces taking control of an enemy drone and landing it into
an allied soldier’s outstretched hand. The tool they used
looked like a rifle fitted with an antenna array instead of
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a barrel and boasted several mysterious-looking cowlings
hiding the electronics.
The operator simply aimed it at the drone, held it in his
‘sights’ and brought it into a gentle landing. Incredible!
As it turns out, I’m very familiar with the taking down
of airborne vehicles. As an aeromodeller back in the day,
I flew many radio-controlled models, and plenty of them
were wrecked thanks to idiots accidentally (or deliberately,
in one case) turning on a transmitter using the same frequency that I was using.
This confuses the receiver and, as it doesn’t know which
signal to respond to, it just locks up or twitches uncontrollably, inevitably causing the earth and the aircraft to meet
– usually at ground level.
Back then, we used the 27MHz band for model flying
(later 35MHz, later still 2.4GHz). Within the 27MHz and
35MHz bands, only a set number of frequencies were allocated to R/C (remote control) use.
Most flying fields and clubs used a ‘peg’ system; if your
radio gear used, say, 27.125MHz, you took the peg for that
frequency from the board; while you have that peg clipped
to your antenna, nobody else is supposed to use anything
on that frequency until you put the peg back.
Obviously, this relied a lot on goodwill, patient
queuing and not being stupid; sadly, plenty of people
would neglect this system and turn up to the field,
unload their model and switch on their transmitter
to test things out without grabbing the peg first. The
result was usually lots of swearing, some crashes
and a firm reinforcement of the flying field rules to
the offender.
All you needed to do to ruin someone’s day was
to sit somewhere within range with a transmitter, turn it on and watch the planes fall. Some
miscreants did this for ‘fun’ or out of spite.
You could do the same thing with any type
of signal generator that swamped that band;
many so-called ‘jammers’ work this way.
In fact, anything that emits wide-band
interference will naturally jam and confuse receivers and transmitters; a big
enough spark-eroding machine or a
plasma cutter can do it. Dad used to
curse VW bugs driving past because
the interference played havoc with his
CB radios – it seemed no amount of RF
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
Denying the neighbourhood speaker
Fixing two power banks
Replacing an Ozito mower’s battery pack
The flat 125Ah lithium-ion battery
Refurbishing a Peak multimeter
The breadmaker with a short fuse
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
suppression stopped the electrical noise from those aircooled engines!
These days, radio signals are supposedly much more
robust and more immune to interference. Still, going by
these emerging battlefield videos, signals can obviously be
hijacked and the model/drone/UAV taken over to do the
interceptor’s bidding. It is worrying indeed!
Naughty neighbours need knackering
This rather long-winded introduction is building up to a
quandary a friend of mine brought to my attention recently.
Like many of us these days, he is suffering from noisy neighbours. While suburban living is always going to have some
noise, such as lawn mowers, chainsaws, water-blasters etc,
they are usually temporary and sound levels soon drop to
birdsong level once the yard work is done.
Apparently, these neighbours place a large Bose wireless
speaker out on their lawn and pipe music to it by some
means. The sound levels are reportedly rock-concert loud
and go on for hours every day and often into the night. That
really would be annoying!
My friend was at his wit’s end; he’d called the noise control people dozens of times – they seemed to be toothless
other than giving the noisemakers a stern talking to. The
usual occurrence, once the enforcement people leave, is
the music gets turned back on, only louder.
Surely, my friend suggested, I must know of, or could
even make something, to fight back against these neighbours. I told him no. Despite being very interested in the
technical aspects of any device that might help in this scenario, I wasn’t keen to get involved. Creating RF interference on purpose would likely be more illegal than them
pumping loud music! Still, it really fired my imagination,
so I decided to investigate anyway.
My first thought is that any solution would need to be
something that affects only the annoying guys while leaving other neighbours alone. That would likely be almost
impossible.
Simply cranking up a guitar amp and pointing it at the
neighbour’s house while having someone who doesn’t play
guitar do their best Jimi Hendrix impersonation would
undoubtedly be entertaining. It’d also give everybody in
the surrounding area cause for complaint!
I admit to doing something similar many years ago when
flatting and working nights at the airline. The guy next
door had a DKW two-stroke car that he’d fire up at 6.30am
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and leave idling for 15 minutes to ‘warm up’ before heading off to work. I asked him nicely several times not to do
that, or park it on the road, because I worked nights and
got to bed at 5am.
He told me to suck it up, so I started practising guitar
playing when I got home at 4am, with my amp perched on
my bedroom windowsill, pointing directly at his bedroom
window across the drive. Even at low volume, he would
have heard it clearly. He got the message.
While getting revenge like this is nice to imagine, it is
far too indiscriminate in suburbia. If only there were some
way to take control of their system and interrupt it, or turn
it down ourselves.
I knew of nothing that would achieve that goal. I suppose
that some sort of jamming device might be able to disrupt
the signal; I’ve noticed mobile phone jammers advertised
on the likes of AliExpress and eBay, but they are pretty
expensive, and jamming is illegal anyway.
By the looks of the blurb on those sites, the jammers can
block most bands associated with mobile phone operation,
including the 2.4GHz and 5GHz WiFi and Bluetooth bands
on some models. I imagine if anyone got caught using one
of these in New Zealand, they would risk conviction, seizure of the hardware and incur a hefty fine to boot.
I advised my friend against using such devices for that
very reason; besides, it may not even work on their system, and that’s a lot of money to throw away for no result.
Thankfully, he agreed. Still, this sort of thing is fascinating,
a bit like those Bond gadgets; interesting and potentially
useful in the right situation!
Creating a ‘jam session’
More internet searching revealed several DIY jammers
designs, but the assembly and technical details on them
were scant. That path looked like a lesson in frustration.
Besides, anything like this could only be purely hypothetical anyway because I didn’t know for sure how they
were streaming the music to the speaker (Bluetooth, WiFi
or even a direct connection). I also really didn’t want to
get wrapped up in the whole grubby business.
My research took me down a few rabbit holes, though,
especially regarding the Bluetooth and WiFi angles. I also
learned that the noisy neighbour issue is a global problem,
if the number of people posting on forums and asking questions on project pages was any indication.
Some people wondered if a ‘shotgun’ (hyper-directional)
speaker existed (like those shotgun microphones that were
all the rage once), but the consensus was ‘not really’.
Could something be made to take control of the speaker
and shut it off? There are quite a few experimental projects
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 55
along these lines, the downside being that the latest Bluetooth LE (Low Energy) protocol is not compatible with
older versions of Bluetooth (and these projects) and is
much more difficult to ‘hack’.
To have any success, I’d need to know what devices
were involved and what version of Bluetooth they used;
that avenue was already becoming moot. However, I have
plenty of older Bluetooth speakers and headphones around
the workshop, and my interest was piqued.
I breadboarded a unit; for obvious reasons, I won’t be
going into details other than to say I used an Arduino to
control it all. I also had to use relatively complex tools
on my Linux laptop to ‘sniff’ for Bluetooth signals in my
workshop. Once I identified the correct device, I could
try to disrupt or break the connection using the ‘jammer’
circuit.
While it did work after a fashion, to be truly useful, the
transmitter would need to be much more powerful and
considerably closer to the receiver to make much of an
impact. As it turns out, most Bluetooth streaming protocols
are incredibly robust, so this type of exploit would never
fly, unless you could ‘ring-fence’ any potential target with
hardware. A good idea then, but busted. My reading led
me to another interesting area, though.
People sometimes stream and cast music between
devices using their home network and wireless router
(some Bluetooth connections also use routers). Someone
has created a small project that uses an exploit that still
exists in many of today’s routers using the 802.11w protocol. Simply sending a ‘disconnect’ or de-authentication
packet to the target router drops off anything connected
wirelessly to it.
This idea was too intriguing to pass up. I needed to build
one of these and see if it worked – on our own network,
obviously – most certainly not to harass anyone else! As
they say, this device was for educational purposes only!
Attack of the ESP8266 clones
The project is very well-researched and is now on version 3. It is easily made by anyone familiar with computers and flashing .bin files. It uses a readily available (and
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very cheap) ESP8266 board, which must be flashed/programmed, utilising easy-to-use (and free) software tools.
Once assembled and up and running, it turned out to
be a very stable device, running from a battery pack, a
5V phone charger or a computer’s USB port. Power consumption is very low, making it quite portable, so it can
be set up anywhere around the house to test how healthy
a home network is and whether the router is immune to
such exploits.
In general, if your router is more than a year or two old,
it likely will be vulnerable to the de-authentication attack.
If the router uses the latest WPA3 security protocol, it
should be immune.
Essentially, the ESP8266 creates a standalone WiFi node
and web server, which you can then connect to using a
smartphone, tablet, laptop or any WiFi-enabled computer.
Once joined, you enter the IP address of the board in your
device’s web browser, accessing a web-based user interface.
It is surprisingly comprehensive, and it transpires that
this device has several other interesting and related functions aside from the de-authentication feature you can test
network security with.
I have a drawer full of older but still-too-good-to-throwaway routers gleaned over the years, so I set a couple of
them up around the property with easily identifiable SSIDs
(network names). I also connected some random WiFi-
capable devices to them to test out this de-authentication
functionality.
Finding the routers is easy – all wireless networks
within range are listed at the click of a button. Usually,
the closest networks will be listed near the top; as I used
specific SSIDs, it was easy to select the test networks.
Once selected, a menu option is selected to carry out the
de-authentication attack.
The instant I clicked the go button, my connected devices
dropped off the target network. The same thing happened
with the other router I set up. I tested a few more of my
older routers, and all behaved the same way.
I took the ESP board to the end of my long driveway and
tried the attack on the routers I’d set up inside the house
from there. Once again, all dropped connections immediately. So it is quite a powerful little device.
While there is provision to add an external antenna on
later versions of this board, I found my version 2 setup with
a built-in antenna easily picked up routers in households
well beyond the boundaries of my back-section property.
I could see how this device might easily be misused in the
wrong hands.
The big test would be to try it on our main network router,
a TP-Link Archer C7 v5. It is old by today’s standards, but it
has some relatively sophisticated anti-cyber-attack features
built in. They are off by default but can easily be switched
on via the web interface.
I had to pick my time because my wife works from home
and is usually in Teams meetings half the day. I didn’t want
to knock her connection off during my tests!
When I had a clear run, I tried the attack and sure
enough, off everything dropped. The thing with the de-
authentication attack is that as soon as the packets are no
longer being sent to the router, disconnected devices will
usually try to re-establish the connection, so just one little
drop-off might not be noticed.
The ESP can be configured to send a continuous (preset)
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stream of de-authentication packets to the router, preventing WiFi devices from reconnecting. Nasty!
I tried applying the various anti-cyber-attack settings
on the router, but as I suspected, they made no difference
for this type of attack. While hiding the SSID (an option
on most routers) might help prevent the router from being
‘seen’ by the ESP, it might also hamper connecting to it if
you allow people to use your router’s WiFi connection.
Upgrading to a new router should prevent most attacks
of this type. I have one on order! All in all, it is a fascinating, functional gadget and strangely satisfying to build and
test. For educational purposes only!
Fixing two power banks
B. P., of Dundathu, Qld will repair anything that isn’t
working correctly. This time it’s a prevalent problem: over
time, USB sockets on cheap devices can detach from the
PCB and become intermittent...
I have had two small power banks for several years.
They came in very handy recently for charging our phones
when our power was cut due to flooding in this area. Both
power banks worked well to charge our phones, and we
were recharging them from our car’s USB port.
I noticed that the green power bank had a problem with
the charging cable, which seemed to be loose, and it was
necessary to push the cable to one side for the power bank
to charge.
After the power came back on, I looked closely at the
faulty power bank to determine if it could be easily disassembled. It appeared that the white top was an insert that I
could remove. I was then able to extract the PCB and battery.
On close inspection, I could see that the micro Type-B
USB port’s two power pins were no longer attached to the
circuit board, and the two shell pins were very loose. The
problem was that access to the tiny pins was very limited;
it would be a challenge to re-solder the pins with a regular soldering iron.
There was nothing for it but to try to re-solder the pins
and hope that I didn’t destroy the power bank. I had a
close look at how to get the tip to the pins without burning
anything nearby. This was like trying to remove a splinter
with a crowbar.
I tried to re-solder the two power pins first; then, I plugged
in a charging cable to test the repair. The first attempt was
unsuccessful, and the charging light did not come on. The
second attempt proved to be more successful, with the
charging light now coming on, so I re-soldered the two shell
pins and plugged the charging cable in again to ensure that
everything was still OK.
This power bank is just a small one that uses an 18650
(18mm diameter, 65mm-long) Li-ion cell. The fact that it
can be easily dismantled for repair means that the battery
could be replaced if it came to the end of its life and the
power bank still worked. Another successful repair enabled
the power bank to continue its useful life.
Replacing an Ozito lawnmower’s battery pack
R. S., of Figtree Pocket, Qld is a prolific contributor and
he has been busy replacing rechargeable batteries in various devices...
Ozito no longer supplies 36V mower battery packs and
instead uses two 18V packs on their electric mowers because
18V packs are used for their other tools. So if you have one
of these mowers and the battery fails, you either have to
repack the battery or replace the mower. The packs use 20
18650 lithium batteries in parallel pairs, with 10 pairs in
series to get 36V.
As newer lithium-ion cells have a higher mAh capacity
(3400mAh), I decided to use just 10 cells in series. I purchased four Samsung 18670s at $9 each from eBay and six
Panasonic NCR18650B at $15 each, both from Australian
suppliers. Buying from overseas is impractical due to transport difficulties or high delivery costs. I mainly used two
different battery suppliers to compare them.
There is no battery balance circuit in the packs. If some
cells are already charged to 4.2V, charging is terminated
too early, as the fully charged cells go open-circuit due
to their inbuilt safety valve. So for the charger to charge
all cells properly, the cells should all start with the same
voltage (eg, 3.6V).
The Ozito charger charges at 1A, taking about three hours
to fully charge the battery pack. There is a 0.1W current-
sensing resistor in the charger, which usually has 0.1V
across it. If you prefer a slower charge rate, you can change
the resistor to 0.33W to reduce the charging current to 0.3A.
I repacked a 36V Ozito mower pack with ten Panasonic
NCR18650B cells in 2017, and it is still working. With a
15W test load, the voltage drops from 41.5V to 39V, showing an internal resistance of about 0.9W. The mower won’t
run with the pack with mixed cells – it has a higher internal resistance of around 1.3W.
The NCR18650B cells I recently received can deliver
less current (9A) than the ones I used to repack my first
battery. It seems that the design has changed, or the ones
I used this time are not genuine.
Some Samsung cells have an electronic current limit
(at the negative end), limiting the current to about 9A, but
by removing it, the limit can be increased to about 20A.
The cells with the electronic current limiter are a bit
longer and have a copper strip down the side connecting
positive to the circuit. I decided to repack the second battery with all Samsung cells this time due to their higher
current limit.
After swapping the second battery pack to all Samsung
cells, it is now working. Paying extra for heavy-duty cells
in the first place would have saved a lot of time, but my
The PCB and battery was easily extractable from the power bank (shown at left); upon inspection, the USB socket’s two
power pins were not attached. After resoldering those two pins it eventually powered up succesfully (shown at right).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 57
first repack with the NCR18650B cells in 2017 worked with
no problems, so I expected the same this time.
Another problem with repacking is that new cells may
be longer than 65mm. For example, the Samsung cells I
purchased are 67mm long. They would not fit in a Deebot
DN5G robot vacuum cleaner, while in a Samsung SR8980
robot vacuum, there is plenty of room as the original battery was in a plastic case.
The large cells used in the Dyson V11 vacuum are 20700
(2mm larger in diameter and 7mm longer), making them
difficult to reuse if space is limited.
I am soldering the cell terminals (they don’t come with
solder tags). It seems to be easy to solder the negative end,
but not the positive end, which I think is stainless steel.
I bought some special liquid flux which helps. I also find
that I also have to sand the positive terminal to get the solder to stick.
However, one cell positive terminal would not take solder. When I get my spot welder, I will try that. In the meantime, I had to use another cell. Another new cell reads open
circuit; perhaps the protection valve is faulty.
Editor’s note: don’t mix Li-ion cells; use all the same
type and age, especially in cases like this where there is
no balancing circuitry.
A flat 125Ah lithium-ion battery
D. M., of Toorak, Vic saved his friend a lot of money
with a trivial repair, when the manufacturer wasn’t all
that helpful...
I have a friend with a 4WD that has an auxiliary 125Ah
lithium-ion battery with Bluetooth monitoring and a nominal voltage of 12.8V. It retails for a cool $1890. He uses it
to power the vehicle fridge/freezer, which he keeps running whether the vehicle is in use or not. The battery is
charged via the vehicle alternator.
He was understandably rather upset when the battery
apparently went flat, and the dedicated charger connected
to the alternator would not charge the battery. Some chargers will not charge a very flat battery for safety reasons.
He bought it to me, and I measured the terminal voltage at 1.9V. A call to the manufacturer’s representative
resulted in them advising that the battery was almost certainly destroyed at such a low voltage.
I told them that I thought these batteries had an internal battery management system (BMS) that would shut
the battery down. In fact, the specifications say there is a
low-voltage cutoff of 10V. The representative said the BMS
did not always shut down the battery at low voltage, and
its primary purpose was to manage the battery charge and
discharge rates relative to cell balance and temperature.
My friend independently called another branch of the
manufacturer and was told they would take a look at the
battery for a fee of $250 plus return freight between Melbourne and Sydney.
The battery had a maximum charge voltage specification of around 14.6V, so I connected it to my bench power
supply at 13.5V with the current limit set to 500mA. After
a few minutes, I disconnected the power supply and was
pleasantly surprised to get a reading of about 13.3V.
I kept charging the battery for the next few days, gradually increasing the current to about 1A. I did not charge
the battery fully because I could not tell the state of charge,
as I could not connect to the battery’s Bluetooth system,
58
Silicon Chip
which would give such information. In any case, I disconnected the power supply and the voltage held constant for
a couple of days.
I reinstalled the battery in his vehicle and, using a clamp
ammeter, measured the charge current when the vehicle
engine started as 40A. The battery can accept a 100A charge
current. I told my friend to keep the battery on float charge
via a dedicated charger if he wants to keep the fridge running when the vehicle is not in use. The recommended
float charge voltage for that battery is 13.8V.
My conclusion is that the BMS disconnected the battery
from the terminals to protect it when the voltage reached the
10V threshold below which the battery could be damaged.
The charger refused to charge it because the disconnection
meant the terminals only presented 1.9V. As soon as I put
a small amount of charge in it, the BMS reconnected the
battery, and it could be charged normally.
The manufacturer representatives seemed unaware of this
possibility. My friend reports no further problems with the
battery, and he is pleased I saved him $1890.
You can see some pretty good photos of what the BMS
circuitry looks like in a battery this large at the following
website: siliconchip.au/link/abhr
Refurbishing a Peak multimeter with new batteries
R. E., of Majors Creek, NSW ‘fixed’ his multimeter by
making up a new battery (with the original type no longer
available). But with the simple repair comes an interesting story of the past...
In the early 1970s, I obtained my first multimeter – a
Peak OL-64D (Hioki Electric Works). I have used it extensively over the last 50 years. When I recently used it on the
ohms range, the needle didn’t move because the AA cells
were flat and had corroded the terminals. The 22.5V battery, which I suspect was original, was also flat.
22.5V batteries haven’t been made for years, so I planned
to use two small 12V batteries in series with some series
diodes added if the exact voltage was critical. I soldered
together the batteries and soldered wires to the meter
The front view of the Peak OL-64D multimeter.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
terminals. I wound the ohms adjuster pot anti-clockwise
in case the higher voltage caused the pointer to overshoot.
To my astonishment, the pot could only adjust the zero a
short distance up the scale. Wondering if my quick soldering had damaged the batteries, I checked the voltage with
another meter. Surprise: only 3V! A close look at the batteries showed I had used N cells rather than the 12V A23
‘lighter’ type, which are much the same size.
After uttering some naughty words, I de-soldered the N
cells and reconstructed the battery with two of the more
suitable A23 batteries. The zero pot had plenty of range,
and the x10,000 range worked again.
In the 1970s and 80s, I worked at the NASA Orroral Valley Tracking Station on Operations. Occasionally, when
major equipment changes were scheduled, the operational
shift workers would be temporarily reassigned to other
‘day work’ at the station. In 1980, I had a week in the Test
Equipment Lab, properly called the Precision Measuring
Equipment Laboratory (PMEL).
Dave (different from the Serviceman), the Senior Technician, was ex-Army, versatile and competent at maintaining the station’s master standards. He had a laconic sense
of humour and a sensitive BS detector.
Several times per year, American-based engineers would
visit the station bringing ‘traceable’ (NBS became NIST in
1988) transfer standards on their flights to check the calibration standards held in the PMEL. Many of these engineers
took their jobs with deadly seriousness. Some may have
been recruited from regions where humour is unknown.
There was a complicated paper trail of visit dates, equipment calibrated, discrepancies found etc. As well as using
their signatures, these engineers all had personal rubber
stamps that they kept secure so that no one else could use
them.
They would prepare the paperwork, get Dave to sign
in the right place and then ask him to apply his stamp.
Sometimes for impact, he asked them if they were sure. He
would then stamp a red ‘rubber duck’ on the forms. Some
were horrified, feeling that it diminished the importance
The side view of the Peak OL-64D multimeter and NASA
PMEL Cal sticker.
siliconchip.com.au
of their own stamps, their jobs and probably themselves.
I’m glad I still have my meter with its 1980 NASA PMEL
Cal sticker – complete with Dave’s initials and red duck
stamp (see photo at lower left). RIP Dave.
The short-fused breadmaker
K. W., of Craigburn Farm, SA likes to make his own bread
but was frustrated by the breadmaker playing up. Luckily,
it turned out to be a simple fix…
I’ve had a few breadmakers over the years; they don’t last
forever. My Panasonic SD-2501 model has been the best
yet, and its bucket and paddle are still in good nick, so I
was perturbed when it started playing up. Twice it failed
to bake after mixing, forcing me to complete the loaves in
the ‘normal’ oven. Then it stopped powering up altogether.
I pulled it apart to see if I could find an obvious fault.
It is well made and opened up reasonably easily. I found
no obvious failures, no burnt smell, no shonky connectors
and heater element showing a fair resistance. So I started
tracing the power feed. Sure enough, an over-temperature
fuse (of two) in the supply line was open circuit.
I sourced a replacement from Jaycar, getting the next temperature range up since they didn’t have the exact one. The
hardest part of the whole process was prising the crimps
open, pushing in the new fuse and re-crimping it. I just
used pliers since I don’t have a flash crimp tool.
I switched it on, and it was all good. So my favourite
breadmaker was saved from the dump and is still working
well. I think what blew the fuse was loaves that rose too
high and blocked the heat vents in the lid. Too much water
or yeast can cause that. I’ll be more careful from now on.
I’ve kept our nice Panasonic microwave oven from the
dump too. After a loud ‘pop’, it ceased heating. All inside
looked OK, so I gambled on the klystron, buying a replacement online. Not an exact match, but it worked. The microwave lives on.
Appliance failures are inevitable, but sometimes a simple look inside can reveal an obvious fault that’s easy to fix
and much cheaper than replacing the whole thing.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 59
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High-end
Part 2: By Phil Prosser
Active Monitor Speakers
With Subwoofer
The Active Crossover Amplifier fits in a clean-looking black metal case
and contains everything you need to drive the Active Monitor Speakers
presented last month. It could also be used to power a different two-way
bi-amplified speaker system with or without a subwoofer.
Y
ou will have heard us discuss
active speakers and their benefits
before. One of the problems with them
is that if you use standalone parts, you
end up with a stack of boxes containing preamplifiers, crossovers, power
amplifiers and speaker protectors. The
result can deliver excellent performance but can also be an unruly mess.
This article will describe how you
can fit all the required electronics into
a svelte two-rack-unit (2RU) high case,
offering 50W per channel for each midrange/woofer and tweeter, with line
level outputs for an active subwoofer
or two. A high-quality matching subwoofer will be described next month
that can deliver substantial, clean bass
down to almost 20Hz.
An output power of 50W for the
midrange/woofers and treble drivers
might seem modest, but there is also
a 180W amplifier in the subwoofer,
giving a total system power of 380W.
50W is actually an enormous amount
of power for the other drivers as these
amplifiers do not need to handle the
large voltage swings required to deliver
the bass (any signals below ~85Hz).
This article brings together several
previous projects; in terms of electronics, we are only adding a very simple
power supply board. I have worked to
keep metalwork to a modest level of
complexity, though some drilling and
filing will be necessary.
I built it in a high-quality Altronics
H5038 case as this avoids the hassle
What is needed to build a stereo Active Monitor Amplifier system
4 x Hummingbird Amplifier Modules – December 2021; siliconchip.au/Article/15126
3-Way Active Crossover – October-November 2021; siliconchip.au/Series/371
Multi-Channel Speaker Protector (4-CH) – January 2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15171
Active Monitor Speakers Power Supply – described in this article
2RU rack case, heatsink and other miscellaneous parts
of fabricating the enclosure and provides enough space to fit all the parts.
To start building it, gather or make all
the required sub-assemblies, as shown
in the panel at lower left.
The input to the Active Crossover
Amplifier is the stereo output from
your preamplifier, with line level
outputs to your active subwoofer and
speaker level to the midrange/woofers
and tweeters. The Active Crossover
Amplifier is the heart of the High-End
Speaker System, as shown in Fig.1
from last month.
A full description of each subsystem
is provided in the referenced articles. I
suggest you read them as they provide
good background information that I
won’t repeat here. The metalwork and
subsystem integration forms the majority of this project.
Let’s start with building the case, as
once that is done, the modules drop
in, ready for wiring. You can see the
overall arrangement in the adjacent
panel and Photo 9 overleaf.
Chassis and metalwork
Start by marking and drilling the
base of the chassis as shown in Fig.17.
Also drill and file the front and rear
panels as shown in Figs.18 & 19. Testfit the connectors and other items to
ensure you won’t need to rework anything. On the front panel, be careful to
check the height of your PCB standoffs,
as these determine the location of the
holes for the crossover controls.
For the front panel, you will be best
off installing the 35mm standoffs at
both the front and rear locations of the
62
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
∎ Stereo three-way active crossover with 24dB/octave Linkwitz-Riley roll-off
∎ Four 50W high-fidelity amplifier channels
∎ Line-level subwoofer outputs (left and right or dual mono)
∎ Speaker protection and de-thumping on all outputs
∎ Baffle step correction implemented at line level
∎ Fits in a high-quality, two-rack-unit (88mm high) case
∎ Silent operation with passive cooling
are not that many holes, and the holes
line up with the gaps in the fins. If you
cannot tap these holes, it is possible to
run long M3 machine screws or bolts
through the heatsink, but I found that
tapping the holes was easy enough and
took less than half an hour. To tap the
holes, drill to 2.5mm diameter and
use an M3 × 0.5mm tap with plenty
of lubricant (light oil).
Amplifier construction
crossover board and sliding it forward
to verify the drill holes match up with
the height of the potentiometer shafts
on the crossover.
There are small locating pins at the
bottom of the potentiometer mounting
threads. The best thing to do is use a
3mm drill and drill a ‘blind hole’ into
the rear of the front panel deep enough
to accommodate the pin without going
right through the panel. This is not as
hard as it sounds, but if you are concerned, filing, cutting or snapping
these off is a cheeky alternative.
Slide the crossover in and check
the alignment with the holes in the
base. Mine were very close. If there is
a minor misalignment, it is fine to drill
the mounting holes in the base out to
4 or 4.5mm, which will give you wiggle room with the standoffs. I did not
install the front standoffs on the Active
Crossover board as they interfere with
the lip on the front panel.
Now is a great time to drill and tap
the heatsink, as shown in Fig.20. There
If you haven’t already, assemble four
Hummingbird amplifier modules as
described in the December 2021 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/15126). It is
important that you attach the wiring
before mounting them on the heatsink;
once they have been installed on the
heatsink, you will not be able to get a
screwdriver in to tighten the terminals.
I used 300mm lengths of heavy-duty
(7.5A rated) red, green and black wire
and a 500mm length of white wire
(for the positive, ground, negative and
Fig.17: mark & drill the base of the Altronics 2RU case as shown. Drill the holes to 3.5mm for mounting locations; if you
need extra wriggle room, you can drill or file them to 4mm. If using a different case, you will have to make adjustments.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 63
Photo 9: When
you have built
all the modules,
installed them
in the case and
wired everything
up, it should look
like this. I put a
fair bit of effort
into keeping all
the wiring neat
as it helps with
the performance.
In particular,
keep those AC
loops tight and
away from the
Crossover.
output of the modules, respectively).
These will be slightly too long, but we
can trim them to be the perfect length
when we connect them to the other
modules (mainly the power supply).
If you did not fully test them when
you built them, you need to do that
now. Once installed, it would be a real
bother to strip everything apart to fix
a silly mistake. To do this, strip the
ends of the pigtail leads on each module and power each amplifier up. You
can run functionality tests without the
heatsink if there is no bias.
If a module draws a lot of current,
switch it off immediately and sort the
problem out! The most likely cause is
that the pot is adjusted the wrong way,
and you have maximum bias.
The most basic functionality check
is to power the amplifier up and check
for DC on the output. If the output is
within 50mV of 0V, it is very likely
that the amplifier is working, as this
shows the DC feedback loop is operating. If available, check the output
with a scope to verify that it is not
oscillating. For bonus points, run a
sinewave through the amplifier module and check that the output waveform is clean.
You can run this last test using an
AC voltmeter provided you use a test
signal of 400Hz at 100mV RMS; you
should get about 2.8V at the output.
Once the modules are all working,
mount them and adjust their bias.
First, mount the module at the back
Photo 10: the four Hummingbird
modules mounted to the heatsink
with pigtails. Some prototype V2
Hummingbirds were used, along
with a variety of spare transistors!
Australia's electronics magazine
of the heatsink. Do not forget to use
insulators and insulating bushes on
the screws. Otherwise the power supply will be shorted out via the collector tabs and heatsink! Also use flat and
shakeproof washers on each screw so
that they don’t back out.
Power up the first module using a
bench supply and adjust the bias current until it is 50mA, either by measuring across a resistor in the fuse
holder (in place of the fuse) or across
the emitter resistors.
Anything that can supply at least
±15V DC at 1A or more is sufficient to
power the module for this test. Let the
module sit for a while; the current will
eventually settle down (it will change
as the transistors warm up).
During development, I tested the
impact of changes in the bias current.
I determined that minor misadjustments only marginally impact performance; the amplifier gives well under
0.01% distortion when it is close to
correct bias.
As you finish one module, mount
the next and make all adjustments.
Rinse and repeat until you have all
modules mounted. You will end up
with an assembly like that shown in
Photo 10.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.18: drilling details for the front panels. These are outside views. If drilling a different case, you can use the same
general pattern, but you might need to adjust the overall position of the template.
Fig.19: the amplifier rear panel drilling details – note that this is an inside view.
Fig.20: each set of three holes on the heatsink is for mounting one Hummingbird amplifier, with two more holes for the
thermal cut-out. Drill and tap at least two holes in the bottom of the main section to mount it to the base of the case.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 65
Twist the wires together to ensure
you know which ones go where and
also to make tidy bundles. This has
the added benefit of keeping magnetic
field radiation from the power wiring
to a minimum. Tie wrap the power
leads as shown in the photos. You
will achieve pretty good mechanical
rigidity by tying the bundles between
adjacent modules.
If you plan to use this as a portable amplifier or for road use, you will
need to install bracing between the
Hummingbird amplifiers and the chassis base. For example, angle brackets
secured to the mounting holes in the
Hummingbird amplifier boards.
Next, mount a 70°C normally-closed
thermal switch via the two remaining
holes on the heatsink, with flat and
shakeproof washers on each screw. I
have included this as a safety measure
– if the heatsink gets too hot, it will
switch off. I have never managed to
get to that point with mine, but I am
happier with that protection in place.
Power supply assembly
The power supply is very simple,
comprising a 300VA transformer,
Photo 11: space the wirewound
resistors off the PCB to help with heat.
bridge rectifier and filter PCB. Its circuit is shown in Fig.21.
As this is supposed to be a ‘highend’ design, I decided to provide maximum scope for constructors to ‘go
the extra yard’ [extra metre? - Editor].
My original power supply accepted
10,000μF capacitors. I tweaked this to
fit 35mm diameter capacitors, and as
seen in the final pictures, that allows
me to fit three 15,000μF capacitors in
parallel for each rail.
I doubt that will make a big difference, but it makes me feel happy. I recommend a minimum of three 6,800μF
capacitors, with 10,000μF being the
‘sweet spot’. The limiting factor on
capacitor size is the 10A fuses at the
input to the power supply. If your
capacitors are too large, these fuses
will become unreliable on power-up
due to the massive inrush current.
I have included a one-second delay
on the Speaker Protector power supply. This is arguably unnecessary
given that there is also a switch-on
delay built into the Speaker Protector.
There is also a 100W resistor in series
with the power supply to the Speaker
Protector. This drops about 10V, thus
reducing dissipation in the Speaker
Protector regulator.
PCB assembly is straightforward –
use the overlay diagram, Fig.22, as a
guide. The power supply is built on
a double-sided PCB coded 01112221
that measures 147 × 60mm.
Start by fitting the screw terminals,
then the fuse clips and fuses. I put
a fuse in the clips and soldered the
assembly in from the top, ensuring
everything aligned and fitted. Load in
the components in the delay section
next, making sure not to swap the PNP
and NPN transistors. The BD139 must
go in with the metal surface facing the
edge of the PCB.
Fig.21: the upper part of the power supply circuit is a capacitor bank with multiple terminals to connect the amplifier
modules, fuses for protection and LEDs to indicate when power is present and act as bleeders. The lower part is a
delay circuit that applies power to the Speaker Protector after roughly one second.
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The 3.3kW resistors have a maximum dissipation of 380mW with the
nominally ±35V supply rails, so 1W
resistors are OK, provided you space
them at least 5mm off the PCB.
The 100W 5W resistor for the speaker
protector runs quite warm to the
touch, dissipating about 1W. The 82W
5W resistors for powering the Active
Crossover drop about 10V and dissipate 1.5W. This might be much less
than their 5W rating, but they still
get very warm. Stand all these resistors off the PCB by 10mm, as shown
in Photo 11.
Mount the power supply board in
the case using tapped spacers and
machine screws with flat and shakeproof washers. When doing the wiring, do not place plastic insulation
wiring against these resistors. The
final power supply board, as presented
here, moves these resistors away from
the power amplifier boards to make
that easier.
Powering the Active Crossover
At this point, it will save you a lot of
fiddling to connect 500mm of twisted
red, green and black light-duty hookup
Photo 12: the four Hummingbird amps are now wired up to the power supply,
and the output wires running under it are ready to attach to the Speaker
Protector. Note that this is not the final power supply board design.
Fig.22: use this PCB overlay diagram as a guide to fit the components on the power supply board. Be very sure to get the
electrolytic capacitor polarities right, or it could fail spectacularly!
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 67
wire to the Active Crossover header on
the power supply board and leave this
for later. If you forget this now, it can
be installed later, but you will need
needle-nosed pliers to get the wires
into the terminals.
Now mount the power supply PCB
in the case. It should be about 5mm
clear of the Hummingbird modules
horizontally, with DC input close to
the transformer and rectifier.
Next, we need to connect the amplifier wiring to the power supply. The
DC supply and mains wiring details
are shown in Fig.23. I chose to run
one pair of amplifiers from each side
of the power supply PCB.
Note that there are output headers for up to six modules, but we
only need four in this application. It
does not matter which terminals you
use as they all connect to large low-
impedance copper fills on the PCB.
I kept track of the amplifier modules,
numbering them 1 through 4 from front
to rear of the heatsink. I used tape on
the twisted bundles and for the outputs, ran amplifiers 1 through 4 left
to right, looking from the rear of the
amplifier case – see Fig.26.
For the wiring, cut the positive, negative and ground wires so that they
are a neat fit to the connectors on the
Power Supply board, ensuring there
is sufficient slack that you can remove
PCBs later if necessary.
Do not cut the speaker output wire;
this goes right through to the Speaker
Protector, twisted with the extra
ground wire we are about to add from
the power supply. Route it with the
power loom to minimise the output
current loop area. That also minimises
distortion by reducing the coupling of
these fields into the amplifier front end
and input circuitry.
Connect 450mm lengths of heavyduty green wire from the second
ground screw terminal on each output from the power supply. These go
to the speaker terminals, following
the speaker output wiring through the
Speaker Protector. These will finally
be trimmed to length when you connect these to your speaker terminals.
The Speaker Protector
We are using the four-channel version of the Multi-Channel Speaker Protector (January 2022; siliconchip.au/
Article/15171). However, I had some
spare six-channel versions left over
from the development of that project,
and it seemed a terrible waste not to
use them. There is no need for more
than four channels, though.
FOLD
UP
V1.2 2021-09-17
POS GND
25-40VDC
+
+
+
+
+
+
_
+
_
_
COIL
COIL
914
914
914
+
+
+
+
+
27V
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVES OVER
ALL CONNECTIONS
Multichannel Speaker Protector
PRESSPAHN
SHIELD
COIL
NO NC
NO NC
NO NC
CHANNEL 4
AMPLIFIER
CH 1
SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
CH 2
CH 3
CH 4
CH 5
CH 6
SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
GROUND
COM
COM
COM
SPEAKER PROTECTOR MODULE
CABLE
TIES
TGM SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
T1
+
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS POWER SUPPLY
2022-04-15
01112221
CHANNEL 3
AMPLIFIER
3.3kW 1W
*82W 5W
N EG
LED2
PREAMP
POWER
CON8
CHANNEL 2
AMPLIFIER
1
PO S
LED1
*82W 5W
CON4
10A
FUSE 1
+
+
BR1
+
–
+ ~
+
~
+
+
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS
POWER SUPPLY
3.3kW 1W
M5525C
10A
F U SE 2
12V
CON9
CHANNEL 1
AMPLIFIER
*100W 5W
SPKR PROT
+
+
+
PRESSPAHN
L
G
G
R
COIL
CABLE
TIES
4148
+
150nF
150nF
150nF
+
12kW
+
LK2
COIL
L
G
G
R
150nF
12kW
LK1
4148
V–
150nF
150nF
150nF
ACTIVE CROSSOVER MODULE
12kW
12kW
150nF
12kW
12kW
+
COIL
L
G
G
R
2.7kW
1
2.7kW
HIGH
+
22nF
22nF
22nF
22nF
2.7kW
2.7kW
MID
2.7kW
SUB
LK4
GND
22nF
+
22nF
CON3
2x 12V DC/AC
or 24V DC
2.7kW
22nF
22nF
2.7kW
2.7kW
+
+
+
+
V+
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVES
+
POWER
SWITCH
+
CABLE
TIES
THERMAL
BREAKER
47 m F
LK3
+
+
+
+
Install for
Mono Sub
Fig.23: the mains and DC supply wiring. The signal and amplifier output wiring is shown separately, in Fig.26. Read
the text for important information on safely running and insulating the mains wiring.
68
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
To test these, power them from a
bench supply. As described in the
original article, apply positive and
negative DC voltages to the AMP
inputs one by one, and check the
relevant relay ‘clicks’ out. With this
working, your speaker protection is
good to go.
Mount the module to the chassis
using tapped spacers and machine
screws with flat and shakeproof washers. Wiring the protectors into the
system is easiest with the rear panel
removed. Wire up the inputs as shown
in Photo 13. Note the following:
1 - The ground wire from the
power supply to the speaker terminals
runs straight underneath the Speaker
Protector PCB.
2 - I twisted the output wires with
the ground, as shown in the photo.
This keeps things neat and again minimises current loops.
3 - I marked the wires to be soldered to the output terminals with
a small piece of heatshrink tubing to
ensure I did not confuse them with
the amplifier outputs, then connected
these to the “SPKR” terminals. I ran
channels 1-4 left-to-right across the
protector – although the critical thing
to get right is the pairing of the amplifier and speaker terminals.
4 - These connections are definitely the fiddliest bit of this project.
Use needle-nosed pliers, and don’t cut
the leads too short.
Now cut a 600mm of white lightduty hookup wire plus two 300mm
lengths (white & red) for the speaker
protector power and ground connections. Twist them together and secure
with heatshrink tubing, referring to
Fig.23 for the required layout. Run the
wires between the Speaker Protector
power terminal, under the Power Supply PCB to the power output for the
Speaker Protector, with the GND side
going via the thermal switch.
The connections to the thermal
switch are made using 6.3mm spade
lugs.
The recommended 100W 5W resistor
on the Power Supply PCB is the correct value for a 25V AC transformer. If
your transformer voltage is below 20V
AC or above 30V AC, check this resistor once it is operational and adjust
as needed. Top tip: connect this wire
before you screw the rear panel on
unless you have three arms!
Transformer and rectifier
Now is the time to install the transformer. The recommended transformer
is a 25+25V AC 300VA toroidal type.
A lower power unit would work but
should only be used if you will either
reduce the supply voltage or don't plan
on ever driving the amplifier hard.
Suppose you really want more than
50W output per driver and will only
ever connect this to 8W speakers or our
Active Monitor Speakers.
In that case, you could use a 30V
AC transformer instead, provided you
check the voltage ratings of all the
power supply capacitors. That will
Photo 13: the wiring to the Speaker Protector is easier to do before you have
fully mounted it in the chassis. Note the removal of the rear panel to gain some
extra space while doing this.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
give you close to 70W per output.
I have specified a 35A bridge rectifier; this is especially necessary if
you use high-value capacitors on the
Power Supply board. The 35A bridge
rectifier should be mounted to the base
of the chassis with a 25mm-long M3
panhead machine screw with a flat
washer and shakeproof washer. Put a
dab of thermal paste under the bridge
rectifier to ensure it stays cool even if
the amp is driven hard for extended
periods.
Secure the power transformer with
the flying leads toward the bridge
rectifier. We are trying to minimise
high current paths near the crossover
here. Transformers are typically supplied with two rubber washers for the
top and bottom, plus an M6 bolt and
dished plate. Do the bolt up moderately tight, but not so tight that you
crush the windings.
Using the colour codes for the
Altronics transformer:
1 - Connect the white and black
secondary wires directly to the middle two GND terminals on the power
supply PCB. If necessary, scrape the
enamel insulation off to expose bare
copper. Also check that the tinning
on these wires does not extend back
under the PVC sleeve, as that can be
a shorting hazard.
2 - Next, connect the orange and
red wires to the AC terminals on the
bridge rectifier. Usually, the positive
terminal and one AC terminal are
marked on rectifiers. The other AC
terminal will be diagonally opposite
the marked one, and the negative terminal will be diagonally opposite the
positive terminal.
3 - You will need to cut these leads
to a sensible length, but too long is better than too short. These wires have
very high current pulses, and we don’t
want big loops to generate magnetic
fields. Depending on the type of wire
used, you might need to scrape off
the enamel coating after cutting them.
4 - Tie wrap the leads from the
Power Supply as shown in the photos.
It’s now time to install an eight terminal length of the terminal strip.
These come in various sizes; 57mm
spacing is good for the recommended
part. If you are using an alternative,
check the mounting hole placement.
Cut a 70 × 80mm piece of insulating
card such as Presspahn and fit it under
the terminal strip. Our terminal strip
is laid out as shown in Fig.23.
December 2022 69
Fig.24:
these minor
modifications
to the Active
Crossover
midrange/
woofer output
implement ‘baffle
step correction’
below 250Hz.
The 2.2kW
resistors and
330nF capacitors
are added to the
existing PCB,
while the existing
100W resistors
change to 1kW.
regulators cool during operation.
Compensation
for baffle diffraction
Single Rail, jumper JP1 & JP2 across pins 2-3
ual Rail, jumper JP1 & JP2 across pins 1-2
requires a Dslight
boost
to the bass/mid
ZD1
3x BC547
output below
about 250Hz.
This com47kW
Q3
pensates for diffraction100from
the edges
kW
100kW
Q5
of
the
loudspeaker
for
the
particular
REG2 LM337
enclosure. The following changes suit
the Active Monitor Speakers; for100othnF
ers, you will need to change the values:
JP1
JP2
1 - Instead of 100W at the output
10kW
22kW
of
the midrange/bass
section,
use 1kW
100nF
36kW
7.5kW
(these
are next to RLY2). 5.6kW
7.5kW
V+
HS1
D8
5V1
10kW
+
4148
220nF
220nF
220nF
5.6kW
220n F
220n F
36kW
36kW
IC16
NE5532
100nF
+
100nF
36kW
5.6kW
36kW
220n F
220n F
150nF
10kW
SUBSONIC FILTER
2.7kW
IN: Link pins 2 & 3 of
both JP6 & JP7
OUT: Link pins
1&2
330W
330W
100nF
JP6
JP7
330n F
47mF
47mF
2.2kW
1kW
1kW
4.7kW
4.7kW
+
4.7kW
RLY1
COIL
100W
RLY2
12V DPDT
SIGNAL RELAY
100W
COIL
LOW OUT
CON4
MID OUT
L
G
G
R
CON2
L
G
G
R
150nF
IC6
NE5532
47mF
150nF
12kW
C ON 5
100nF
47mF
RLY3
12V DPDT
SIGNAL RELAY
150nF
150nF
12kW
IC5
NE5532
12kW
2.2kW
+
330n F
47mF
4.7kW
IC4
NE5532
IC17
NE5532
+
IC3
N E5 5 3 2
33kW
100nF
220nF
2.7kW
10kW
150nF
47mF
150nF
100W
5.6kW
22kW
12kW
+
+
+
+
+
+
L
G
G
R
1kW
4.7kW
100nF
12kW
IC2
NE5532
150nF
4.7kW
1 2 V D PD T
SIGNAL RELAY
HIGH OUT
22nF
IC15
NE5532
47mF
+
+
+
+
+
+
LOW – MID Resistor, R1
LOW – MID Capacitor, C1
22kW
COIL
470mF
D3
100nF
47mF
IC1
NE5532
36kW
10kW
JP5
100W
47mF
2.7kW
22nF
Install for
Mono Sub
1kW
4.7kW
22n F
2.7kW
LK1
2.7kW
2.7kW
22nF
IC14
N E5 5 3 2
SUB
VR3
10kW LOG
100nF
7.5kW
36kW
5.6kW
100nF
22kW
7.5kW
47mF
5.6kW
33kW
47mF
100nF
IC13
NE5532
47mF
22kW
10kW
2x
BC557
4.7kW
100kW
D4
D7
12kW
BEAD
100pF
22nF
IC12
N E5 5 3 2
47mF
22kW
4.7kW
Q1
Q2
4148
47mF
100nF
12kW
NP
47kW
47mF
+
47mF
22nF
2.7kW
MID
VR2
10kW LOG
22kW
7.5kW
1kW
4004
5.6kW
47kW
CON1
12kW
36kW
IC8
NE5532
33kW
Configuration for 2 or 3 way crossover
2 Way: Jumpers on JP3 & JP5 across pins 1-2
3 Way: Jumpers on JP3 & JP5 across pins 2-3
7.5kW
1kW
22kW
100nF
100nF
100nF
D9
JP3
47mF
22n F
2.7kW
22kW
BEAD
100pF NP
2.7kW
IC11
NE5532
2.7kW
22nF
47mF
1kW
100nF
5.6kW
HIGH
VR1
10kW LOG
100nF
100nF
1kW
100nF
IC10
NE5532
47mF
33kW
4004
R2
1kW
1kW
100nF
22kW
1.6kW
10mF
270W
D1
10mF
4004
D2
100nF
4004
R1*
1000mF
270W
When building
the Active Cross100nF
over, install Altronics H0655 heatsinks (or equivalent) in place
of the
100nF
suggested Altronics
H0650.
These
22kW
7.5kW
are twice the size7.5kand
will keep the
W
22kW
4.7kW
Q4
10mF
1000mF
10mF
REG1 LM317
220mF
V–
CON3
4004
Active Crossover
+
4004
D11
4004
HS2
Single rail
R1 = 3.6kW
Dual rail
R1 = 1.6kW
POWER >
1
2x 12V DC/AC
or 24V DC
POS GND NEG
/AC
/AC
4004
Silicon Chip
D10
70
input and speaker terminals using a
10mm machine screw, flat washer,
shakeproof washer and nut as shown
in Figs.23 & 26, just touching the bot100nF
tom of the lid.
D5
Now do the mains wiring as follows,
using Fig.23 as a guide:
1 - Attach the IEC socket to the
case using 10mm M3 panhead screws,
nuts and shakeproof washers. The
nuts need to make connection to the
chassis by scraping away any paint or
anodising. Connect the IEC Active pin
through the fuse to the terminal strip
using brown mains-rated wire.
2 - Connect the active from the terminal strip through the power switch
and back to the terminal strip (making the front panel easy to remove).
Ensure that the active input wire goes
to the power switch's switched (NO)
pin, with the output from the common terminal (so the spare pin is not
connected to Active when power is
off). Insulate the pins on the switch,
including any unused ones.
3 - Connect the Active wire from
the front panel switch to one side of
the transformer primary.
4 - Connect a wire to the IEC Neutral pin running alongside the Active
run to the front panel, then to the terminal strip using blue mains-rated wire.
5 - From here, connect to the other
side of the transformer primary.
6 - Connect the Earth pin of the
IEC connector to the chassis Earth lug
using a 3.2-4mm solder lug or (even
better) crimp eye terminal screwed
down securely to an M3 machine
screw to the chassis. Make sure that
the paint on the chassis is scraped
back to bare metal and that you have a
star washer to cut through to the chassis under the bolt. Use green/yellow
striped wire for this.
7 - Score and fold the 120 x 40mm
sheet of Presspahn to form an L-shape
90mm tall, 30mm wide and 40mm
deep. Mount it between the mains
MID – HIGH Resistor, R2
MID – HIGH Capacitor, C2
BAFFLE STEP CORRECTION
100W changed to 1kW and add 2 x 2.2kW and 2 x 330nF
Fig.25: the annotations show the components whose values determine the
crossover frequencies, plus the changed parts for the ‘baffle step correction’. The
full overlay for the Active Crossover PCB is shown in the October 2021 issue.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
2 - Connect a 2.2kW resistor in
series with a 330nF MKT capacitor
and connect this network from the
junction of the 1kW resistor & relay
to ground.
The modified Active Crossover circuit is shown in Fig.24, while PCB
changes are shown in Fig.25.
Also, when building the Active
Crossover, set it up for dual rail operation and set the jumpers as described
in the original article. It’s a good idea
to do a quick bench test to check its
operation after construction. Feeding it with ±15V DC will allow you to
check that the regulators are generating
the correct output voltages, and that
the de-thump relays click out after a
couple of seconds.
The jumpers on the Active Crossover need to be set as follows:
■ Three-way operation is achieved
with JP3 and JP5 set to pins 2-3.
■ JP1 and JP2 set to pins 1-2 for
dual-rail operation.
■ I left the 20Hz subsonic filter in,
but note that the active subwoofer will
generate useful output below that! To
do this, set JP6 and JP7 set to pins 2-3.
Other choices you need to make
when building the Active Crossover
are whether it should be a two-way
or three-way crossover and what the
crossover frequencies should be.
We will configure it as a three-way
crossover (with the lowest output for
the subwoofer) and crossover frequencies of 88Hz for Low-Mid and 2.7kHz
for Mid-High. However, if you are not
planning on using the system with a
subwoofer, you will need to change
it to a two-way crossover at 2.7kHz.
The required component values
were given in Table 1 on page 48
of the October 2021 issue. They are
12kW/150nF for 88Hz (Low-Mid) and
2.7kW/22nF for 2.7kHz (Mid-High).
MKT capacitors are readily available
in both values in either 5% tolerance
(preferable) or 10%. Use 1% metal film
resistors for the best precision. The
locations for all these components are
also shown in Fig.25.
Now install the Active Crossover in
the case. The front panel should have
been drilled to suit it already. Power
wiring for the Crossover should have
been connected to the power supply
already; route and trim this to connect
to the power connector at the right
front corner of the Active Crossover.
Doing the input and output wiring for the Active Crossover involves
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Active Monitor Amplifier / Crossover
1 430mm wide, 330mm deep 2RU black rack-mount case [Altronics H5038]
4 assembled Hummingbird amplifier modules (Silicon Chip, December 2021)
1 assembled 4-way Speaker Protector with larger heatsink (see text) (January 2022)
1 assembled Stereo Active Crossover with modifications as per text (October 2021)
1 300mm wide, 75mm tall diecast aluminium heatsink, 10mm fin spacing, 0.37°C/W
[Altronics H0545 or two Jaycar HH8555 joined with hole position adjustments]
1 300VA 25-0-25 toroidal mains transformer [Altronics M5525C]
1 double-sided PCB coded 01112221, 146.5 × 108.5mm
1 250V 3A+ SPST power switch (toggle, rocker etc)
1 normally-closed thermal switch/breaker, 250V AC 10A, 70°C [Jaycar ST3823]
8 TO-3P insulating kits [Altronics H7220]
4 TO-126 insulating kits [Altronics H7120]
1 small tube of thermal paste
1 3.2-4mm solder lug or crimp eyelet connector
Connectors & fuses
1 chassis-mounting IEC mains input socket [Altronics P8320B]
4 chassis-mounting dual red/black binding posts [Altronics P9257A]
1 red chassis-mounting insulated gold RCA socket [Altronics P0218]
1 black chassis-mounting insulated gold RCA socket [Altronics P0220]
2 yellow chassis-mounting insulated gold RCA sockets [Altronics P0219]
1 8-way 17.5A terminal block strip [Altronics P2135A]
6 4-way 5mm terminal blocks (CON1-2, 4, 6-8) [Altronics P2026A]
1 2-way 5mm terminal block (CON9) [Altronics P2034A]
4 2-way polarised header plugs with pins [Altronics P5472 × 4 + P5470A × 8]
1 M205 10A chassis-mount safety fuse holder [Altronics S5992 or Jaycar SZ2028]
1 M205 5A fast-blow fuse
4 M205 PCB-mount fuse clips
2 M205 250V 10A ceramic fuses
Hardware
1 M3 × 25mm..... 9 M3 × 16mm......... 9 M3 × 10mm......... 19 M3 × 6mm panhead screws
35 M3 shakeproof washers
32 M3 flat washers
7 M3 hex nuts
8 M3 × 10mm tapped spacers
40 100mm cable ties
2 sheets of Presspahn or similar insulating material, 80mm × 70mm & 120 × 40mm sheets
Wire & cable
1 2m length of each colour (red, black, green & white) heavy-duty (10A+) hookup wire
1 2m length of 7.5A mains-rated brown wire
1 1m length of 7.5A mains-rated blue wire
1 10cm length of 7.5A mains-rated green/yellow striped wire
1 150cm length of each colour (green & white) light-duty hookup wire
1 50cm length of red light-duty hookup wire
1 3m length of figure-8 screened cable [Altronics W2995 or W3022]
1 10cm length of each diameter (3mm, 5mm & 10mm) heatshrink tubing
Semiconductors
1 BC556 80V 100mA PNP transistor (Q1)
1 BD139 80V 1A NPN transistor (Q2)
1 BC546 80V 100mA NPN transistor (Q3)
2 5mm LEDs, any colour (LED1, LED2)
1 12V 400mW zener diode (ZD1) [eg, 1N963]
1 400V+ 35A chassis-mount bridge rectifier with spade terminals (BR1)
1 1N4148 75V 200mA signal diode (D1)
Capacitors
6 10,000μF 50V electrolytic, 10mm lead spacing (6800μF-15,000μF acceptable)
1 47μF 50V low-ESR radial electrolytic
2 330nF 63V MKT 1 ●
Resistors (all 5% 5W wirewound unless otherwise stated)
3 22kW 1% 0.6W metal film
2 3.3kW 1W
2 2.2kW 1% 1/4W metal film ●
●
2 1kW 1% 1/4W metal film
1 100W
2 82W
● for the baffle step correction (see Fig.25)
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 71
making four flying leads of 800mm
length using figure-8 shielded cable,
plus two at 350mm long. To make the
cables, you need the following parts
(also in the parts lists):
■ 4 × four-way 2.54mm polarised
header plugs with matching pins
■ 4 × two-way 2.54mm polarised
header plug with matching pins
■ 2 × 80cm lengths and 2 × 35cm
lengths of figure-8 screened cable
■ 3mm and 5mm heatshrink tubing
Photo 14 shows what the header
ends of these cables should look like.
To make them:
1 - Start by separating the two coax
channels, then strip 25mm of the outer
sheath from each, exposing the braid.
2 - Tease the inner conductor from
the braid and strip the end by 5mm.
3 - Twist the braids together into a
neat bundle.
4 - Cut two 20mm lengths of 3mm
heatshrink, such that when put on the
braid, it will leave enough exposed
copper to crimp to.
5 - Slide a 10mm-long, 5mm diameter piece of heatshrink over both the
braid and central conductor but do not
shrink it yet.
6 - Slide the 3mm heatshrink over
the braid; there should be 4-5mm of
wire protruding. Shrink this down.
7 - Slide the 5mm heatshrink to
cover about 3mm of the junction where
the braid and inner core separate and
shrink it down.
8 - Present the braid to the crimp
connector. You need to trim off excess
braid wire so that the strain relief
LEFT
TWEETER
RIGHT
TWEETER
crimp will go over it, and there is
about 3mm of braid wire in the electrical crimp section.
9 - Take one of the pins and, using
sharp-nosed pliers, crimp the end of
the braid conductor. Carefully add a
tiny amount of solder to the crimped
part, careful not to let it wick down to
the spring section.
10 - Strip back 3mm from each of the
inner conductors and crimp and solder
as above. I was dissatisfied with the
strain relief crimp missing the plastic
and added a small piece of heatshrink,
but that is optional.
11 - Now push the pins into the
header plug, with the braids in the
middle and left and right conductors
on the outside. You will feel and/or
hear a click when they seat properly.
LEFT MID
SPEAKER
RIGHT MIDRANGE
SPEAKER
AUDIO IN
LEFT & RIGHT
SUBWOOFERS
OUT
Multichannel Speaker Protector
V1.2 2021-09-17
POS GND
25-40VDC
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
_
+
_
_
COIL
CO I L
914
914
914
+
+
27V
+
CO I L
CHANNEL 4 AMPLIFIER
NO NC
NO NC
NO NC
CH 1
SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
CH 2
CH 3
CH 4
CH 5
CH 6
SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
GROUND
COM
COM
COM
SPEAKER PROTECTOR MODULE
(RIGHT TWEETER)
TGM SPKR AMP SPKR AMP
T1
CHANNEL 3 AMPLIFIER
+
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS POWER SUPPLY
2022-04-15
01112221
*82W 5W
NEG
LED2
PREAMP
P OWE R
CO N 8
1
PO S
(RIGHT MIDRANGE)
LED1
*82W 5W
10A
+
+
FUSE 1
–
+ ~
CHANNEL 2 AMPLIFIER
CHANNEL 1 AMPLIFIER
3.3kW 1W
CO N 4
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS
POWER SUPPLY
+
BR1
+
+
+
~
3.3kW 1W
(LEFT TWEETER)
10A
M5525C
FUSE 2
12V
CO N 9
*100W 5W
(LEFT MIDRANGE)
SPKR PROT
L
G
G
R
COIL
+
+
+
PRESSPAHN
4148
+
L
G
G
R
COIL
150nF
150nF
+
LK2
150nF
12kW
+
ACTIVE CROSSOVER
MODULE
150nF
12kW
LK1
4148
V–
150nF
150nF
12kW
150nF
12kW
150nF
12kW
12kW
47mF
+
LK3
COIL
L
G
G
R
2.7kW
1
2.7kW
HIGH
+
22nF
22nF
22nF
22nF
2.7kW
2.7kW
MID
2.7kW
SUB
LK4
GND
22nF
+
22nF
CON3
2x 12V DC/AC
or 24V DC
2.7kW
22nF
22nF
2.7kW
2.7kW
+
+
+
+
V+
HEATSHRINK
SLEEVES
+
POWER
SWITCH
+
CABLE
TIES
+
+
+
+
Install for
Mono Sub
Fig.26: the signal wiring for the Active Monitor Speakers. While the wires from the Active Crossover board to the
Hummingbird amplifier modules are shown separately for clarity, they should be run using figure-8 shielded cable to
avoid hum and buzz pickup.
72
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Now that you’ve made the cables,
you can complete the signal wiring as in Fig.26. The input and subwoofer output connections go to the
rear panel, while the midrange/woofer
and tweeter outputs go to the amplifier
modules. I opted to use modules 1 and
2 (the two most forward in our case)
for the midrange/woofer and modules 3 and 4 (rearmost) for the tweeters. The final configuration is shown
in Photo 15.
Testing
By this stage, you should have
verified that the amplifier modules,
Speaker Protector and Active Crossover function correctly. The next steps
are a few safety checks:
1 - Using a DMM, check that there
is no continuity between the chassis
and the power supply ground (or, for
that matter, the main positive and negative DC rails). The aim here is to check
the integrity of the insulation bushes.
If your meter registers a resistance on
its 20MW range, you need to find and
fix the conductive path.
2 - Using a DMM, check that there
is a solid connection between the Earth
pin of the mains socket and all chassis panels. You should get a reading
under 1W in each case. If not, find the
problem and, if necessary, add Earth
jumpers from the affected panels to the
base panel or main Earth lug.
3 - Using a DMM, check that there
is no continuity from the Active/ Neutral wiring to the amplifier's chassis
and the power supply 0V point. If
your meter registers a resistance on the
20MW range, you need to find and fix
the conductive path.
Assuming that all checks out, insert
the 5A mains fuse in the chassis holder
and, while monitoring the voltage
across the main supply rails, briefly
switch on mains power. As you need
to do this with the lid open, ensure you
stay clear of the mains wiring while
it’s switched on. Use two DMMs with
alligator clip leads attached so you can
do it hands-off.
If you don’t have two DMMs or
enough clip leads, connect a DVM
between the main positive and negative rails.
The rails should very quickly rise to
close to ±35V or 70V total. They could
be a few volts higher or lower than
that. If you don’t get the correct reading(s), switch off quickly and check
the following:
■ Carefully check all of the mains
wiring.
■ If the voltage is zero: is the fuse
blown? Is the switch on?
■ Is there mains voltage across the
transformer primary? You can check
this by probing the terminal strip.
■ Is there AC at the input to the
bridge rectifier?
■ Is there pulsating DC at the power
supply input terminals?
The voltage across each pair of
amplifier module outputs should be
under ±50mV.
If that all checks out, apply an
AC signal (or music) to the inputs
and check that the sub, midrange/
woofer and tweeter outputs behave as
expected. If not:
■ Check the wiring from the Active
Crossover to the amplifier modules.
■ Check that the amplifier modules
have a reasonable output; this can be
measured on the top of the emitter
resistor using an oscilloscope probe
or AC voltmeter.
■ Check that the amplifier outputs
go to the correct Speaker Protector
terminals and, subsequently, the rear
panel connector.
■ Check that the Speaker Protector
is working properly.
At this point, you should have a
functioning Active Crossover Amplifier. The levels need to be set to match
your speakers. The process for doing
that was at the end of the article on
the Active Monitor Speakers published last month, so refer back to
that. If you’re using the Active Crossover Amplifier with different speakers,
you’ll have to tweak the crossover frequencies and levels to suit.
Next month
The final article in this series will
describe the High-Performance Subwoofer that can optionally be paired
with the Active Crossover Speakers. It
connects to the subwoofer output on
the Active Crossover Amplifier and
extends the bass of the system almost
down to 20Hz.
We highly recommend that this Subwoofer be built as part of the system,
although you can still enjoy the Active
SC
Monitor Speakers without it.
Photo 14: this is how each of the four
stereo shielded cables should look
once terminated to the polarised
plugs, ready to connect to the Active
Crossover board.
Photo 15: a close-up shot showing the
details of the complete low-voltage DC
and signal wiring.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 73
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NORDIC
SEMICONDUCTOR
nRF5340 DK
Review by Tim Blythman
Nordic Semiconductor is known for its wireless communications products and lowpower devices; you can find their parts in many products. This board is based on
the nRF5340 SoC (system on a chip), a dual-core ARM chip that can dedicate one
core to wireless communications, leaving the main core free for other applications.
W
e decided to try out the new
nRF5340 DK development board
from Nordic Semiconductor since it
is a bit different from anything we’ve
reviewed previously. The suggested
applications for the nRF5340 are:
■ Advanced computer peripherals
and I/O devices
■ Health/fitness sensor and monitor devices
■ Wireless payment devices
■ Wireless audio devices, eg, headphones, microphones, true wireless earbuds and speakers with
Bluetooth Low Energy (LE) Audio
■ Smart home sensors and controllers
■ Industrial IoT sensors and controllers
Interactive entertainment devices
Remote controls
Gaming controllers
Professional lighting
Wirelessly connected luminaires
You could be using devices daily
that include Nordic Semiconductor
parts without realising. If you’re using
something that relies on Bluetooth LE
communication, there’s a reasonable
chance it includes a chip from Nordic
Semiconductor.
They also make products that work
with other wireless protocols and
bands and are known for their low
power consumption.
While Nordic Semiconductor has
a history going back around 40 years,
chips like the nRF5340 are based on
■
■
■
■
■
a line of parts dating to 2012: the
nRF51 series is a low-power wireless
SoC incorporating an ARM Cortex
M0 microcontroller and a 2.4GHz RF
transceiver.
The later nRF52 series used an ARM
Cortex M4. These chips are even at the
core of some Arduino boards, like the
Arduino Nano 33 BLE and BLE Sense,
which have the nRF52840. The Arduino Primo uses an nRF52832, providing Bluetooth LE and NFC via PCB
antennas. The BBC micro:bit V2 uses
an nRF52833.
Fig.1 shows a very small subset of
the boards that can be programmed
with the nRF Connect SDK, which we
will discuss later.
There is also the nRF91 series,
The nRF5340 DK is well
equipped. The ‘target’
nRF5340 chip and the
typical complement of
components needed
for a minimal
implementation
is located inside
the small white
rectangle on the
right (near the
logo). Nearby
is a 64MB flash
chip, a detachable
NFC antenna (on flex PCB;
not shown to scale), a PCB trace
antenna and some user LEDs and buttons. There is
another nRF5340 for programming and debugging, plus various
shorting pads and breakouts, including Arduino-compatible headers.
76
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
which implements LTE (a type of 4G
mobile phone technology) and GPS
(global positioning system). Naturally, these chips operate on different frequency bands than the nRF5
series parts.
The nRF53 family is the latest in the
nRF5 series, and the nRF5340 DK is a
development board for the nRF5340
chip. So it also implements 2.4GHz
communication protocols such as
Bluetooth and NFC.
We have previously reviewed a
Nordic product in the September
2002 issue (“One-chip Transceivers”;
siliconchip.au/Article/6738). The
chip described in that article was the
nRF401, a far simpler transceiver than
the nRF5340.
The nRF5340
Unlike the earlier single-core parts,
the nRF5340 is a single chip containing two distinct ARM Cortex M33
cores. The smaller ‘network’ processor runs at 64MHz and is provisioned
with 256kiB of flash memory and
64kiB of RAM.
The network processor handles
wireless communications and, typically, the wireless protocol stack. That
can include Bluetooth LE, Bluetooth
5.3, LE Audio, ZigBee and the Matter standard, which all operate on the
2.4GHz ISM (industrial, scientific and
medical) band.
The nRF5340 does not offer WiFi
(which often uses the 2.4GHz band);
to do this requires a companion IC.
The ‘application’ processor can
run up to 128MHz and has a separate
1MB of flash memory and 512kB of
RAM. Security is provided by ARM
Fig.1: some of the boards supported
by the nRF Connect SDK; several
Arduino boards and the BBC micro:bit
are included. Even if you don’t have
an nRF5340 DK, you might have
another board that it can program.
TrustZone and CryptoCell-312 with
secure storage and bootloader.
This processor can also access external programs stored in off-chip flash
memory via QSPI, expanding the
non-volatile storage. Onboard peripherals include full-speed USB, UART,
SPI, TWI (I2C), I2S (for audio data) and
a 12-bit, 200 kilosample/second ADC.
The application processor also
implements NFC. NFC allows devices
to communicate, pair and authenticate when in close proximity, typically less than 5cm (this technology is
used by “payWave” with credit cards
and smartphones). This can allow, for
example, a Bluetooth connection to be
initiated without requiring a PIN code
to be entered.
The processor cores communicate
via a dedicated IPC (inter-processor
communication) peripheral on each
Power source switch
Debug in
core and a shared memory area.
The two cores are separate enough
that it’s entirely possible to use just
one of them. A sample ‘empty firmware’ for the application core hands
control of the I/O pins to the network
core and places the application core
into a low-power mode, allowing the
network core to do all the work.
This may be suitable for designs that
can make do with just the resources
available on the network core. It’s also
possible to design for just the application core, although that would not
allow wireless communication.
So it’s a capable chip that would
easily outperform many of the other
chips that we have used in our projects
previously, plus it can handle a range
of wireless communication protocols.
The nRF5340 DK board
The nRF5340 DK is the official
development kit from Nordic Semiconductor for the nRF5340. It’s a populated PCB measuring 64mm by 136mm
– see Fig.2.
The reverse side contains only a
2032 coin cell holder and is otherwise covered with information about
the roles of the various shorting pads
on the front of the PCB.
The nRF5340 chip is in the white
rectangle on the right. This area also
contains other essential components
needed for its operation, such as
bypass capacitors and a crystal oscillator.
A 64MB QSPI flash memory chip
sits just outside this area, as does an
SWF connector for making RF measurements and a PCB trace antenna
for 2.4GHz communications. The
nRF USB connector
Debug out
User-programmable LEDs
Current measurement pins
SWF RF port for direct
RF measurements
nRF5340 SoC
SEGGER J-link
USB connector
2.4GHz PCB antenna
External power source
External memory
LiPo battery connector
User-programmable buttons
Power switch
Direct power supply switch
SEGGER J-link
OB programmer/debugger
Reset button
NFC antenna connector
Fig.2: the features and documentation of the nRF5340 DK are pretty good. It contains many more features than most
people would use; many can be disconnected by opening a shorting pad on the PCB.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 77
antenna should also be considered an
essential component for RF applications. A second micro-B USB socket
connects to the USB pins on the
nRF5340, allowing USB applications
to be tested.
The general purpose I/O (GPIO) pins
are broken out to headers and edge
connectors, including a set of Arduino
R3-compatible headers. This means
you can use that you can use common
shields and modules for prototyping.
There is a connector for an included
NFC antenna for NFC testing. Four tactile switches and four LEDs are also
provided for user interfacing.
The remainder of the kit contains a
second nRF5340 chip programmed as
a SEGGER J-Link Debugger, which provides a virtual mass storage device so
you can program the target nRF5340
via a simple drag-and-drop interface.
The Debugger chip also provides USB
virtual serial ports for communication with the target nRF5340 using its
UART peripherals.
As well as USB power, a switch
allows the nRF5340 to be powered
from the 2032 coin cell or a lithium
battery connected to a dedicated
connector. The Debugger and target
nRF5340 can be independently powered if required.
There are shorting pads that can
be opened to allow the placement of
shunt resistors for current measuring.
The back of the board is quite sparse; apart from the 2032 coin cell holder,
the PCB silkscreen lists the roles of the various sorting pads.
External headers are provided for making measurements across the shunt
resistors.
Numerous other shorting pads can
be used to disconnect features on the
nRF5340 DK, to allow the pins to be
used for other purposes.
A small slide switch is provided
near the buttons that control several
analog switches. This disconnects the
debugger chip so accurate current measurements can be made with just the
target nRF5340 chip powered.
This is especially important at the
low power levels that the nRF5340
DK is capable of. As you can see,
the nRF5340 DK is not just a simple
breakout board, but a fully-fledged
Fig.3: the functional features of
the nRF5340 DK. To the right are
components that could be part of a
standalone design, on the left is the
debugging and testing circuitry.
78
Silicon Chip
nRF5340 implementation accompanied by programming, debugging and
testing features.
Such an arrangement should allow
developers to get their software well
advanced and their hardware prototypes very close to complete before
needing to step beyond the nRF5340
DK.
The full schematic and Altium
Designer PCB files are also available
for download, easing the design of custom hardware and helping developers
see precisely how the development kit
board is configured.
Fig.3 shows a block diagram of functional parts on the nRF5340 DK. The
user guide at siliconchip.au/link/abgy
goes into more detail about the various
board features and important details
like pin allocations.
nRF Connect SDK
Such a development board is not
of much use without an appropriate SDK (software development kit).
The nRF Connect SDK is what Nordic Semiconductor provides for the
nRF52, nRF53 and nRF91 series of
devices. It can run under Windows,
Mac and Linux.
It uses Microsoft’s Visual Studio
Code as its IDE (integrated development environment). The SDK includes
protocol and hardware libraries, samples and demo code. Once a project is
set up, a single mouse click can compile code and program it to the chip
on the nRF5340 DK.
There are a few steps to set the IDE
up, but it is all fairly intuitive. A video
playlist explains the setup process and
then shows how to create a basic application using example code, compile it
and run it on the nRF5340 DK.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: inside
Visual Studio
Code, code editing
is done in the
main window on
the right, while
the nRF Connect
SDK provides
actions and
resources at the
left to work with
the nRF5340 DK.
Once everything
is set up, a single
click on the
button under the
mouse pointer
will compile the
code and program
the selected
device.
That YouTube playlist can be found
at siliconchip.au/link/abgz or search
YouTube for “nRF Connect for VS Code
tutorials”. There is also a text version
at siliconchip.au/link/abh0
There were slight differences in the
steps required for the versions shown
in the tutorials and the latest versions of the software, but it was easy
enough to figure out. There are a few
steps using the nRF Connect for Desktop program to install the ‘toolchain’
(compiler and programmer software)
and Visual Studio Code.
A separate Programmer utility can
also be installed, which allowed us
to use some sample HEX files that we
found mentioned in another tutorial.
These and other tools can be installed
from nRF Connect for Desktop.
On our Windows machine, it came
to around 4GB installed, including
~3.5GB for the nRF software and
~0.5GB for the Visual Studio Code
IDE.
After setting up the first sample
project, you’ll see a window much
like Fig.4. The code for main.c is in
the large window on the right, while
the panels give a range of information.
Compiling and programming the project takes only a single click on the button under the mouse pointer.
The sample software for the
siliconchip.com.au
nRF5340 chip is based on the Zephyr
RTOS (real-time operating system),
which has support for different chips,
including many based on the ARM
architecture.
Similar to an operating system on
a PC, Zephyr RTOS provides a wide
range of interfaces and features uniformly on differing hardware. That
makes it easy to get the same software
running on various devices.
Zephyr is optimised for use on
smaller devices such as microcontrollers, and there are many libraries
provided that offer simple interfaces
to the peripherals.
nRF Toolbox app
The nRF Toolbox app is available for
Android and iOS devices. It’s designed
to interface with sample applications
(from the nRF Connect SDK) that use
Bluetooth LE. So it’s pretty easy to
check for Bluetooth functionality.
You can download the Heart Rate
Monitor demo from siliconchip.au/
link/abh1
It includes a pair of HEX files that
can be programmed to the nRF5340
DK using the nRF Connect Programmer tool.
This then communicates with the
nRF Toolbox app to form an emulated
heart rate monitoring device. Fig.5
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.5: the nRF Toolbox app can
interface with sample smartphone
apps to test features like Bluetooth
communication. The suggested uses
of the nRF5340 include devices for
health monitoring, audio playback/
recording and sensing, all of which
would often communicate with a
mobile device.
December 2022 79
shows the app’s main screen; it’s clear
that health and fitness sensors are one
of the intended uses of the nRF5340.
Testing the sample code
We tried a few of the code samples.
The nRF Connect add-on in Visual
Studio Code makes it easy to clone
the examples so we could tinker with
the code to see what we could change.
There are over 500 examples,
including over 100 for different sensor
ICs, modules and shields. Not all the
examples will work with the nRF5340,
but most of the ones we tried did.
Complex peripherals such as USB
have examples for HID (human interface device, such as mouse and keyboard), CDC (communication device
class, for virtual serial ports) and mass
storage devices.
There are even more diverse examples for Bluetooth and other wireless
protocols such as ZigBee. The code is
all in the C language. We didn’t have
many surprises, and mostly, things
worked as expected.
There are several NFC examples
that work with a separate NFC add-on
module and not with the nRF5340’s
inbuilt NFC peripheral, so it was simply a case of making sure that we used
the correct example.
Fig.6 shows an NFC example that
worked for us. It emulates an NFC
tag that can be read, for example,
by an NFC reader app on a mobile
phone. The information shown here
is displayed in Visual Studio Code,
although it is also available on an
external browser via the link at the
bottom.
There are even audio examples
available, including Bluetooth audio
sources and sinks and USB examples that emulate microphones and
headphones. Emulation is necessary because the nRF5340 DK does
not have external audio interfaces
(although they could be added easily enough).
If you are interested in audio applications, there is an nRF5340 Audio
DK development kit with an onboard
codec chip and a pair of 3.5mm audio
jacks for handling real-life audio.
In general, we found the trickiest
part of creating custom code based
on the examples was finding out how
to access and control the various
peripherals through the Zephyr operating system. One handy aspect of the
examples is that they provide liberal
debugging data that you can access
through one of the virtual serial ports
at 115,200 baud.
Conclusion
The nRF5340-DK has been designed
well and is based on the versatile and
powerful nRF5340 chip. It is well
backed by software that’s easy to set
up and use, with many examples. The
design files are available, so a compatible hardware design can be developed
without hassles.
While it is clearly intended to be
used to develop standalone products
for the nRF5340, it would also be a
worthwhile starting point for those
who want to experiment with Bluetooth, NFC and other wireless communications.
It would be a great way to produce
a one-off project, the type that many
of our hobbyist readers might consider, especially if it requires Bluetooth or other 2.4GHz wireless communications.
The nRF5340-DK can be purchased
from these retailers:
1. Mouser (in stock at time of writing):
au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/
949-NRF5340-DK
2. element14 (stock due November):
au.element14.com/3617670
3. Digi-Key (in stock currently):
www.digikey.com.au/en/products/
detail/NRF5340-DK/13544603 SC
Fig.6: NFC allows data to be communicated over short ranges, often to facilitate Bluetooth pairing. In the sample software
shown here, the nRF5340 DK is programmed to emulate a tag carrying data that can be scanned by a device with an NFC
reader, such as a smartphone.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Digital Boost
Regulator
By Tim Blythman
This board lets you use a PIC18F18146
8-bit microcontroller for any task while
its onboard peripherals generate an
adjustable voltage without interfering
with what it’s doing. It even includes
some capacitive sense buttons and a
seven-segment display that can be used to
show the voltage or for other uses!
T
he PIC16F18146 micro has some
interesting onboard peripherals.
We realised it is possible to combine
several of them with a small number of
external parts to make a free-running,
programmable boost voltage regulator that doesn’t require any processor
intervention while running.
This small PCB allows you to experiment with or use this concept. Since
this 8-bit microcontroller has 20 pins,
we’ve connected them all to headers
for making off-board connections.
This design was prompted by our
review of the latest 8-bit PICs in the
October 2022 issue (siliconchip.au/
Article/15505).
We’ve added a small LED display
and some touch-sensitive pads to create a standalone, digitally controllable
boost voltage regulator with a digital
readout. If you’re a keen programmer,
you might be interested in testing
your own designs using this chip. It
could be used as the basis of all sorts
of devices.
You could leave off most of the components and use the board to experiment with the bare chip, although we
already presented a ‘breakout board’
that does that in October (siliconchip.
au/Article/15506). Most recent 8-bit,
20-pin PIC microcontrollers have a
siliconchip.com.au
similar pin layout, so this board could
possibly be used with them too.
We purchased some PIC16F18146
chips in SOIC packages for this project and potentially for use in other
projects. We chose that one over
the others we looked at in October
because it has more peripherals than
the PIC16F18045, and importantly, it
was available in a SOIC package (that
isn’t hard to solder) at the time.
The PIC16F17146 differs only in
that it also has an internal op amp
peripheral. That could be handy for
some designs, but we shall have to
see when stock becomes available to
design a project around it.
The Digital Boost Regulator PCB
suits all three of the aforementioned
chips if you wish to experiment with
them instead.
However, the other chips will need
slightly different code to work, and
we will leave that as an exercise for
the reader.
The working principle of the boost
circuit on this board is not novel.
What is different is that instead of
using a dedicated boost controller IC,
we are simply configuring some of the
PIC16F18146’s internal peripherals to
perform the same role.
Most dedicated switchmode controller ICs have more features, such
as current limiting and short-circuit
protection, that this design lacks. We
have specified our circuit modestly to
keep it simple.
Note that a dedicated chip will probably have a better control algorithm
and thus tighter voltage regulation.
While our design is not bulletproof,
it is a working proof-of-concept that
is usable in many roles.
Features & Specifications
∎ Onboard digitally controllable boost (voltage step-up) converter
from 5V to up to 20V
∎ Output power of up to 0.5W (output current depends on selected
voltage)
∎ Capacitive touchpad interface
∎ Four-digit LED display
∎ Breaks out all microcontroller pins to headers
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 81
Fig.1: in a switched inductor boost
circuit, energy is stored in the
inductor’s magnetic field when
current flows through it. As the
magnetic field collapses, it drives
current to the output via the diode. By
changing the switch duty cycle, the
average energy in the inductor can
be changed, controlling the output
voltage.
This design is a way to show how
valuable these advanced device
peripherals can be. In particular, the
configurable logic cells (CLCs) allow
events to be responded to without
requiring any processor attention.
We’re only using a very small subset of the peripherals, so it won’t seriously impact the chip’s ability to perform other tasks if you were to use it
for the basis of a design. For example,
the PIC16F18146 has two DACs and
two comparators, but we only use one
of each.
Boost regulator
Fig.1 shows the basic arrangement
of the inductor-based boost circuit we
are implementing.
If the switch is closed, as shown at
the top of the diagram, current from
the incoming supply flows through
inductor L1 to ground, charging the
inductor’s magnetic field. When the
82
Silicon Chip
switch opens, the inductor continues
to pass current, but it is diverted via
diode D1 to the capacitor and load on
the right-hand side.
Consider the case when the switch
stays open. Due to the diode drop, the
output voltage settles just below the
incoming supply. This is the minimum
output voltage; such a circuit cannot
deliver a voltage much lower than the
incoming supply.
If the switch spends some of its time
closed, the average inductor current
is higher and thus, the output voltage
increases. The theoretical maximum
(disregarding efficiency factors such
as resistance and voltage drops across
the diode) is equal to the supply voltage divided by the switch’s open duty
cycle. So if the duty cycle is 50%, the
voltage output is (in theory) double
the input.
Theoretically, if the duty cycle
drops to 10% open (which is the same
as 90% closed), the output voltage will
be ten times the input voltage. However, with such a high boost ratio, the
peak inductor current becomes so high
that the output deviates substantially
from the theoretical voltage.
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the full circuit of our
Digital Boost Regulator and breakout
board.
IC1 is the PIC16F18146 microcontroller with a 10kΩ resistor pulling its
MCLR pin (pin 4) to its supply rail to
prevent spurious resets. A 100nF supply bypass capacitor is provided for
stable operation.
CON1 and CON2 are possible
sources for the supply voltage. CON1
is a standard mini-USB socket with
only its power pins connected. The
circuit nominally runs on 5V and is
perfectly happy with anything from
4.5V to 5.5V, as might come from a
USB power supply.
CON2 is used to connect a programmer, such as an PICkit 4 or Snap,
which can also supply power (the
Snap requires a modification to do so).
Q1 performs the role of the switch
from Fig.1; the 10kΩ resistor from its
gate to ground holds it off when there
is no signal from the microcontroller
(eg, during programming).
A capacitor on the supply side of L1
provides a stable, local power supply
for the boost circuit from the 5V rail.
The output capacitor, downstream of
the diode’s cathode, is supplemented
Australia's electronics magazine
by a pair of resistors forming a voltage divider.
This allows the microcontroller to
sense an output voltage that might be
higher than it could otherwise accept.
This divided voltage is taken to a pin
on IC1 that can be configured as an
input to the internal comparator. The
divided voltage can also be sampled by
the analog-to-digital converter (ADC)
peripheral, so we can measure the output voltage.
The output voltage on the capacitor
is also taken to two-pin header CON4
so that you can feed it elsewhere.
TP1-TP3 are connected to PCB touch
pads. They aren’t external components but are formed from PCB traces
designed to effect a change in capacitance when touched (the capacitors shown attached to the ‘switches’
represent the capacitance between
the tracks). They each connect to an
ADC-enabled pin of IC1. 17 of the 20
pins on the PIC16F18146 can be connected to the ADC.
Finally, LED1 is a four-digit seven-
segment display connected to the
remaining pins, configured as digital
I/Os to drive the display in a multiplexed manner. Each of the eight segments (including the decimal point)
has a series resistor for current limiting.
Firmware
Fig.3 shows how the internal
peripheral blocks are configured to
run the boost regulator.
Timer 1 is set running from the
instruction clock. The comparator can
be set to synchronise with this clock.
We do this to prevent the comparator
from oscillating at a high frequency
when the output is near the setpoint.
The firmware also starts one of the
PWM peripherals, set to operate at a
20% off and 80% on duty cycle. This
puts a theoretical upper limit on the
boost voltage that can be achieved,
around five times the input voltage.
The PWM output is not sent to an
I/O pin, but instead routed via an
internal multiplexer to one of the CLC
instances.
The FVR is set up to provide a
2.048V reference to one of the DACs
(digital-to-analog converters). The
DAC is enabled and is internally connected to the non-inverting input of
the comparator. The 8-bit DAC can
thus apply a voltage from 0 to 2.040V
in 8mV steps.
siliconchip.com.au
In practice, the FVR reference is not
precisely 2.048V. The stated accuracy
is 4%, but the factory measured value
can be read from the chip’s DIA (device
information area).
With a 10:1 (10kΩ/1kΩ) divider, the
output range is about 22.44V in 88mV
steps. The upper limit of the boost circuit with an 80% duty cycle is around
25V, depending on the supply voltage.
So we should be able to achieve 20V
at the boost output easily, and that’s
what we’ve specified.
The inverting input of the comparator is connected to the divided output
voltage. Being an analog input, this can
be one of four software-selectable pins.
The comparator output is not exposed
externally, although it could be. It is
instead fed to one of the CLCs alongside the PWM signal.
The CLC is configured to simply
provide a logical AND of the comparator output and the PWM signal. This
is about the simplest possible application of the CLC.
The output of the CLC AND gate is
fed to one of the I/O pins and thus to
the gate of the Mosfet. Since it is a digital signal, we could map it to any one
of the 17 I/O pins on the PIC16F18146.
At power-on, assuming the DAC
output is set to a sufficient level, the
divided output voltage is well below
the DAC setting. So the comparator
output is high, and the Mosfet drive
signal follows the PWM signal.
When the voltage rises above the
setpoint, the comparator output drops
low, and the Mosfet drive is shut off
until the voltage decays below the
setpoint.
We can change the output voltage
simply by altering the DAC value. So
the processor does not need to spend
any time handling the boost converter
unless it wishes to change the settings.
The Timer 1 synchronisation takes
care of any jitter that might occur
around the comparator’s switching
point, preventing the Mosfet from
Fig.2: the lower section of the circuit shows the microcontroller connected to the rows of ‘breakout’ headers, along with
the 7-segment LED display and the three touchpads. The boost circuitry at the top is driven by circuitry hidden inside IC1
(shown in Fig.3).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 83
Fig.3: the peripherals inside
IC1 used to control the boost
regulator are equivalent
to five distinct ICs: a
voltage reference, a digital
potentiometer, a comparator,
an oscillator and an AND logic
gate. We initialise and connect
these peripherals as shown
by setting various registers.
They then control the external
circuitry shown in Fig.2
without further intervention
from the processor.
trying to switch too frequently by
synchronising its state changes to the
timer.
While it might seem a simple exercise, this demonstrates just how useful and configurable the peripherals
can be. For the sake of two external
pins, an application circuit can make
do without a separate boost controller
chip and, as a bonus, have a programmable voltage setpoint!
Once the peripherals have been initialised, this part of the circuit continues to run without taking up any more
processor cycles.
Scope 1 shows typical operation
with an output voltage of around 8.5V,
including the Mosfet gate drive and
drain voltage. The broader peaks are
complete PWM cycles, while the narrower peaks are when the PWM cycle
has been interrupted by the comparator sensing that the voltage is above
the programmed threshold.
A dedicated boost control IC would
dynamically control the pulse widths
and provide more uniformity, giving
a smoother output, better regulation
and better efficiency, hence our conservative ratings for our boost circuit.
Still, it does the job of regulating the
output at the target voltage.
Touch sensing
We’ve discussed the operation of
84
Silicon Chip
shared-capacitance touch sensing
previously, with quite a bit of detail
in the ATtiny816 Breakout Board
project (January 2019; siliconchip.
au/Article/11372). The principle is
that a finger brought near a touchpad
increases its apparent capacitance and
that change can be detected.
The PIC16F18146 has an advanced
ADCC or ‘analog-to-digital converter
with computation’. It can perform multiple samples and provide computed
results based on these samples.
One of the modes supports the
measurement of a capacitive voltage
divider, the same principle used in
shared-capacitance touch sensing.
Effectively, we are comparing the
internal capacitance of the ADCC’s
sample capacitor (which the data sheet
reports is around 28pF) to the capacitance of whatever is connected to the
touchpad.
When a cycle is started, the ADCC
performs a precharge step, which
briefly connects the internal capacitor
to the supply voltage and the external
pad to ground (and vice versa). The
internal capacitor and pad are connected together during the sample
phase of the ADCC cycle.
The numerical result of the conversion depends on the relative capacitance values. Higher values correlate
to a higher capacitance at the external
Australia's electronics magazine
pad, as it can hold and thus contribute
more charge from the precharge cycle.
The PIC16F18146 can actually perform two measurements with inverted
precharge polarities and report the difference. Once the ADCC is configured
correctly, the channel (corresponding
to one of the pads) is set, and the cycle
starts. The result is read back a short
while later.
Scope 2 shows the voltages on two
touch pads during their cycles. You
can see the two precharge and measurement steps for each pad.
While we could calculate the actual
capacitance from the reading, it is simpler and sufficient to pick a threshold
value that can distinguish between the
presence or absence of a finger near the
pad. A brief software routine scans the
pads and sets the values in an array to
whether or not a touch was detected
on each pad.
The other job of the firmware is multiplexed driving of the 7-segment LED
display. For this, a timer interrupt is
set to trigger 240 times per second. The
display is blanked at each interrupt,
and the output pins are changed to
display the next digit in turn.
As it is a common-anode (CA) display, one of the four anodes is pulled
high, while the remainder are left
floating. Any segments to be lit on
that digit are pulled low. The 60Hz
siliconchip.com.au
Scope 1: the blue
trace shows the
signal from the
microcontroller
to drive the gate
of Q1 while the
boost circuit is
delivering 8.5V
under load (green
trace). The red
trace is the voltage
at the anode of D1.
Dedicated boost
controller chips
typically change
their duty cycle
dynamically to
control the output,
while this circuit
uses a fixed duty
cycle modulated to
limit the voltage.
Scope 2: the
voltages at the
I/O pins for
two touchpads
during the ADCC
sampling cycle.
The period
labelled “1” is
precharge while
“2” indicates
sampling. “3” and
“4” are the same
phases but with a
positive precharge.
Note how the stage
2 and 4 levels for
the blue trace are
further apart than
for the red trace;
that pad is being
touched, and it is
that difference that
the ADCC reports.
update rate combined with the persistence of vision makes the display
appear steady.
After construction is complete, we’ll
discuss the actual use and operation
of the default firmware.
Construction
The following assumes that you
want to build the Boost Breakout as
described above. You could instead
omit some parts and make a custom
circuit by adding parts or connections
to the breakout headers while using
some or all of the included features.
The Digital Boost Regulator
and breakout board is built on a
siliconchip.com.au
double-
sided PCB coded 24110224
that measures 50 × 89mm (see Fig.4).
It uses practically all surface-mounting
parts, so you should have flux paste,
tweezers, a magnifier, a fine-tipped
iron and some solder-wicking braid on
hand. The flux will generate smoke, so
use fume extraction or work outside
to avoid breathing it in.
Start by fitting USB socket CON1.
Place flux on the pads, then rest the
socket on top. This part has lugs that
will locate it correctly, so alignment
shouldn’t be difficult.
Clean the iron tip and apply some
fresh solder to it. Touch the iron to
the small pads and allow the solder to
Australia's electronics magazine
flow onto them. Only the two longer
pads need to be soldered. If you form
a bridge, use the braid and extra flux to
remove it. Then solder the four larger
pads around the sides of the shell to
secure it mechanically.
Apply flux to the pads on the PCB,
then fit IC1. Rest it in place, tack one
lead and confirm that it is flat and
aligned with all the pins. Also ensure
that the divot or notch marking pin 1
is at the upper left as per the PCB silkscreen markings. When everything is
aligned, solder the remaining pins.
Add some flux to the rest of the
pads for the surface mounting parts.
Q1 is the only transistor and should
December 2022 85
be orientated as shown. The solitary
diode D1 must be aligned with its cathode stripe to the right. The remaining
parts are not polarised.
Use the same technique of soldering
one lead and checking that the part is
correctly positioned before soldering
the remaining leads.
The two 10μF capacitors are near L1
and D1, while the 100nF capacitor is
above IC1. Fit these next, being careful not to mix them up as they won’t
have markings.
There are only two different resistor values, but take care not to mix
them up. Most of the 1kW resistors are
grouped together near CON1; these are
the current limiting resistors for the
LED segments.
The last surface-mounting part is L1.
Turn up your iron temperature a little,
if possible, as this part has more thermal mass than the others. Add a thin
layer of flux paste to its pads then, as
for the smaller parts, tack one side,
check the position and then solder
the other leads.
Refresh any solder joints that look
dry or rough by adding more flux and
touching a clean iron tip. The solder
should flow and smooth out.
Before fitting the remaining throughhole parts, clean the PCB of excess
flux using a recommended solvent and
allow it to evaporate.
Then check the alignment of LED1,
being sure to orientate it as per our
photos and overlays. Solder it from
the back of the PCB and trim the leads
close.
If you want to fit CON3 (for a 5V supply) or CON4 (to run the boosted voltage elsewhere), these can be header
pins or sockets. If you like, you could
add 10-way socket headers to the
breakout pads to allow breadboard
jumper wires to be used.
CON2 is only needed for in-circuit
programming of IC1, so it can be omitted if you are working with a programmed chip, such as you would
purchase from the S ilicon C hip
Online Shop, and don’t plan to experiment with the code. A right-angled
header is recommended if you do fit
CON2.
Programming IC1
If this is necessary, you can use a
PICkit 4 or Snap programmer. The
Snap will require power to be supplied, which can come via CON1.
You will need a relatively recent version of the MPLAB X IDE or IPE and
the PIC16F1xxxx device family pack
(DFP). We’re using MPLAB X v6.00. If
you wish to experiment with the software, you’ll also need the XC8 v2.40
compiler.
Although the programming pins are
also used to drive the LED display,
they don’t interfere with programming. At worst, there is faint ghosting on the LED display when the programmer is connected. We didn’t run
into any problems with programming
the chip after the board was complete,
although it didn’t seem possible to perform debugging.
Connect your programmer to CON2
and upload the 2411022A.HEX file
using the MPLAB X IPE.
We did run into one odd bug, and
you might, too; the programming software reports that 0x3112 is an invalid
device ID, even though the data sheet
indicates that this is the correct
device ID for the PIC16F18146. If you
get the same error message with that
exact value (see Screen 1), it is safe
to ignore it.
You can continue to use the programmer to supply power, but the
PICkit 4 cannot provide much current
and won’t be very useful for running
the boost regulator. For that, you’ll
need to connect an external 5V supply, which could be as simple as a
USB cable from a computer or charger.
Operation
Fig.4: the Digital Boost Regulator mainly uses SMD parts, but they are all fairly
easy to work with. Watch the orientation of the diode, IC1 and LED display,
and you should have few troubles. If you omit all parts except IC1 and its two
adjacent passives, you can use the PCB as a breakout board that suits many
recent 8-bit PICs in 20-pin SOIC packages.
86
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Assuming you have a 5V supply
connected, you should see the display reading around 4.70 (the units
are always volts) with the rightmost
decimal point also lit. You can connect a multimeter to CON4 to check
the output voltage.
If the displayed or measured voltage
is much higher than the input, there
may be a problem, so you should shut
down the Boost Breakout and check
the construction. The limited duty
cycle should prevent the output from
going way too high if there is a problem with the feedback system.
This default display shows the output voltage while the rightmost decimal point indicates that the boost circuit is enabled. If the supply voltage
drops too low (below 4V), the output
will switch off until the supply voltage increases above 4.5V.
As newly programmed, the boost
circuit is enabled, but with a target of
0V, so the output voltage is simply the
supply less the drop due to the diode.
Pressing and holding the > button
under TP3 will cause the display to
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Digital Boost Regulator
1 double-sided PCB coded 24110224, 50 × 89mm
1 SMD mini USB socket (CON1)
1 5-way right-angle pin header (CON2; optional, for ICSP)
1 2-way pin header (CON3; optional)
1 2-way pin header or socket (CON4; optional)
1 47μH 1A 6×6mm inductor (L1) [eg, Taiyo Yuden NR6045T470M]
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18146-I/SO programmed with 2411022A.HEX, wide SOIC-20 (IC1)
1 14mm/0.56in blue common-anode 4-digit 7-segment LED display (LED1)
[eg, 7FB5461BB]
1 SS34 or similar 40V 3A schottky diode, DO-214AB (D1)
1 2N7002P, 2N7002K or AO3400 N-channel Mosfet, SOT-23 (Q1)
Capacitors (all SMD M3216/1206-size X7R ceramic)
2 10μF 25V+ 1 100nF 50V
Resistors (all SMD M3216/1206-size 1% 1/8W)
3 10kΩ
9 1kΩ
SC6597 Kit ($30 + postage)
A complete kit with all the parts listed above (including the optional
components). The microcontroller is supplied pre-programmed.
switch to the setpoint display and start
flashing 0.00. You can change the setpoint by holding one of the up or down
buttons while holding the > button.
The change happens straight away.
Each step of the setpoint corresponds to one step of the DAC output.
The displayed voltages are calculated
based on the internal voltage reference values from the device information area, so the steps are not uniform
(due to rounding) and the maximums
might not align. Still, you should have
no trouble setting and achieving a 20V
output.
Releasing the > button will return
to the actual voltage output display.
You should see the output tracking
the setpoint as long as it is above 5V.
The output will float a bit high with a
light (or no) load as the boost circuit
does not shut off until the output voltage is above the setpoint.
Pressing the up and down buttons
together will display “b” and the supply voltage.
Finally, if all three buttons are
pressed simultaneously, all segments
will flash on, and the setpoint is saved
to EEPROM so that it is used by default
at power-up. The safest way to do this
is to hold the up and down buttons and
then press the > button. That way, the
setpoint can’t change.
If all the segments don’t light up,
the saved value may be the same as
setpoint, meaning it doesn’t need to
write to the EEPROM. If it did, that
siliconchip.com.au
would cause extra write cycles (and
wear) on the EEPROM.
If you find the Boost Breakout is not
responding to touches or is flashing
when no touch pads are pressed, then
be sure that you don’t have anything
connected to the touchpad I/O pins,
especially circuitry that may affect the
capacitances.
Code details
We tested our prototype with various power supplies, both grounded
and ungrounded and chose our touch
sensitivity values based on those tests.
These are the TOUCH_DOWN and
TOUCH_UP values near the top of the
“io.h” file. Having two values allows
us to provide some hysteresis and thus
debounce the buttons.
Since the measured value increases
on a touch, the sensitivity can be
reduced by increasing these values.
Conversely, the sensitivity can be
increased by lowering the values. You
shouldn’t need to make any changes if
you are using the board as designed,
but if you try to make touchpads by
running wires from TP1-TP3, the
capacitances may change.
No doubt some people will be interested in using bits of our code, especially the boost and touch sections.
So we’ve tried to make it modular and
section the code into dedicated functions for each.
The doTouch() function calls several
other functions to check the state of
the touch pads and store them in the
t[] array. The other functions include
initADCcvd() and getADCcvd().
The boostInit() function sets up the
peripherals used for the boost controller. Controlling it simply requires the
DAC to be set using the DAC1DATL
register after it is enabled by clearing
the TRIS bit of the RA2 port pin (which
has been defined as SWPIN).
Minimal circuitry
If you want to use the board as a
breakout for the PIC16F18146, only
the 100nF capacitor and 10kΩ resistor
adjacent to IC1 are needed for operation. The LED display and its eight
1kΩ resistors can be omitted to free
up 12 I/O pins.
Q1, L1, D1, CON4 and the associated passives, which include a 1kW,
two 10kW resistors and two 10μF
capacitors constitute the components
that provide the boost feature. Leaving these off will free up two IO pins.
Naturally, you will need to change
the code to work without the display,
and if you need a further three I/O
pins, you will need another control
method to replace the touch pads.
However, they can’t easily be physically removed without sawing off the
SC
bottom section of the PCB.
Screen 1: if, during programming, you see an error message indicating that
0x3112 is an invalid device ID for the PIC16F18146, you can safely ignore it.
The data sheet shows that 0x3112 is the correct ID.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 87
SILICON
CHIP
.com.au/shop
ONLINESHOP
HOW TO ORDER
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12/22
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/9
$10 MICROS
$15 MICROS
24LC32A-I/SN
ATmega328P
ATmega328P-AUR
ATtiny85V-10PU
ATtiny816
PIC10F202-E/OT
PIC10LF322-I/OT
PIC12F1572-I/SN
PIC12F617-I/P
Digital FX Unit (Apr21)
Si473x FM/AM/SW Digital Radio (Jul21), 110dB RF Attenuator (Jul22)
RGB Stackable LED Christmas Star (Nov20)
Shirt Pocket Audio Oscillator (Sep20)
ATtiny816 Development/Breakout Board (Jan19)
Ultrabrite LED Driver (with free TC6502P095VCT IC, Sep19)
Range Extender IR-to-UHF (Jan22)
LED Christmas Ornaments (Nov20; versions), Nano TV Pong (Aug21)
Model Railway Level Crossing (two required – $15/pair) (Jul21)
Range Extender UHF-to-IR (Jan22)
PIC12F617-I/SN
Model Railway Carriage Lights (Nov21)
PIC12F675-I/P
Heater Controller (Apr18), Useless Box IC3 (Dec18)
Train Chuff Sound Generator (Oct22)
PIC12F675-I/SN
Tiny LED Xmas Tree (Nov19)
PIC16F1455-I/P
Digital Lighting Controller Slave (Dec20), Auto Train Controller (Oct22)
PIC16F1455-I/SL Ol’ Timer II (Jul20), Battery Multi Logger (Feb21)
PIC16LF1455-I/P New GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock (Sep22)
PIC16F1459-I/P
Fan Controller & Loudspeaker Protector (Feb22)
Secure Remote Mains Switch Receiver (Jul22)
PIC16F1459-I/SO Multimeter Calibrator (Jul22), Buck/Boost Charger Adaptor (Oct22)
PIC16F15214-I/SN Improved SMD Test Tweezers (Apr22), Tiny LED Icicle (Nov22)
PIC16F1705-I/P
Flexible Digital Lighting Controller (Oct20)
Digital Lighting Controller Translator (Dec21)
PIC16F18146-I/SO Digital Boost Regulator (Dec22)
PIC16LF15323-I/SL Secure Remote Mains Switch Transmitter (Jul22)
ATSAML10E16A-AUT
PIC16F18877-I/P
PIC16F18877-I/PT
PIC16F88-I/P
High-Current Battery Balancer (Mar21)
USB Cable Tester (Nov21)
Dual-Channel Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor (Dec22)
Battery Charge Controller (Dec19 / Jun22)
Railway Semaphore (Apr22)
PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS
Wide-Range Ohmmeter (Aug22)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sep19)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite LCD BackPack V1-V3 (Feb16 / May17 / Aug19)
RCL Box (Jun20), Digital Lighting Controller Micromite Master (Nov20)
Advanced GPS Computer (Jun21), Touchscreen Digital Preamp (Sep21)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB M&K Adaptor (Feb19)
$20 MICROS
ATmega644PA-AU
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14), Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/SP
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller (Aug13)
CLASSiC DAC (Feb13)
$25 MICROS
$30 MICROS
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
DUAL-CHANNEL BREADBOARD PSU
DIGITAL BOOST REGULATOR KIT (CAT SC6597)
(DEC 22)
LC METER MK3
(NOV 22)
Complete kit that also includes all optional components (see page 87)
Short Form Kit: includes the PCB and all non-optional onboard parts, except
the case, front panel label and power supply (Cat SC6544)
- Cyan/blue 0.96-inch OLED (Cat SC6176)
TINY LED ICICLE KIT (CAT SC5579)
NEW GPS(/WIFI)-SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
(SEP & NOV 22)
$40.00
$50.00
$2.50
GPS-Version Kit: includes everything in the parts list with the VK2828 GPS module
(Cat SC6472; see Sep22 p63)
$55.00
WiFi-Version Kit: includes everything in the parts list with the D1 Mini module instead
(Cat SC6472; D1 Mini is supplied not programmed, see Nov22 p76)
$55.00
- VK2828U7G5LF GPS module with antenna and cable (Cat SC3362)
$25.00
$30.00
VGA PICOMITE KIT (CAT SC6417)
(JUL 22)
$65.00
$10.00
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR KIT (CAT SC6406)
(JUL 22)
110dB RF ATTENUATOR SHORT-FORM KIT (CAT SC6420)
(JUL 22)
BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER KIT (CAT SC6292)
(JUN 22)
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTH KIT (CAT SC6261)
(JUN 22)
IMPROVED SMD TEST TWEEZERS KIT (CAT SC5934)
(APR 22)
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK KIT (CAT SC6075)
(MAR 22)
500W AMPLIFIER HARD-TO-GET PARTS (CAT SC6019)
(APR 22)
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER (CAT SC6021)
(DEC 21)
SMD TRAINER COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC5260)
(DEC 21)
(DEC 22)
Power Supply kit: complete kit with a choice of red + green, yellow + cyan
or orange + white knob colours (Cat SC6571; see page 38)
Display Adaptor kit: complete kit (Cat SC6572; see page 45)
- MT3608 boost module (Cat SC4437)
(NOV 22)
Specify the Icicle style – comes with 12 white, cyan & blue LEDs and all required
components (except the coin cell, CON2 & figure-8 wire for daisy chaining)
$15.00
BUCK/BOOST CHARGER ADAPTOR KIT (CAT SC6512)
(OCT 22)
Includes everything in the parts list (see page 64) except the Buck/Boost LED Driver
(see adjacent; Cat SC6292)
$40.00
- laser-cut acrylic cover panel (SC6567)
$2.50
- cyan/blue 1.3-inch OLED (SC5026)
$15.00
- white 1.3-inch OLED (SC6511)
$15.00
MINI LED DRIVER
Complete Kit: includes everything in the parts list (Cat SC6405)
- XL6009 4A DC-DC boost module (Cat SC6546; red PCB)
WiFi PROGRAMMABLE DC LOAD
(SEP 22)
WIDE-RANGE OHMMETER (CAT SC4663)
$25.00
$6.00
(SEP 22)
Short Form Kit: includes all SMDs, the power Mosfets, four 0.02W 3W resistors
and the VXO7805 regulator module (Cat SC6399)
- laser-cut 3mm clear acrylic side panel (SC6514)
- 3.5-inch TFT LCD touchscreen (Cat SC5062)
(AUG 22)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/
$85.00
$7.50
$35.00
Partial Kit: includes the PCB, programmed micro, all SMDs, most semiconductors,
PPS capacitors and calibration resistors
$75.00
- 16x2 alphanumeric LCD with blue backlighting (Cat 5759)
$10.00
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board, you just require a few
external parts such as a power supply, keyboard and monitor
$35.00
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
Includes the PCB, programmed micro, OLED and all other on-board parts
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
Complete kit including all programmed PICs (no case or power supply)
$45.00
$75.00
$80.00
$200.00
Complete kit with PCBs, all onboard parts, new microcontroller and gold-plated header
pins to use for the tips. Does not include a lithium coin cell
$35.00
Complete kit, includes all parts except the optional DS3231 IC
$80.00
All the parts marked with a red dot in the parts list, including the 12 output transistors,
driver transistors, VAS transistors, input pair (2SA1312), BAV21 & UF4003 diodes,
TL431 ICs, 75pF capacitor, E96 series resistors and 10kW 1W resistor
$190.00
Hard-to-get parts includes: two 0.22W 5W resistors; plus one each of an
MJE15034G, MJE15035G, KSC3503DS & 220pF 250V C0G ceramic capacitor
Includes PCB & all on-board components, except for a TQFP-64 footprint device
$15.00
$20.00
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. Overseas? Place an order on our website for a quote.
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
AUDIO/RF SIGNAL TRACER
HEAVY-DUTY 240VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
TINY LED XMAS TREE (GREEN/RED/WHITE)
BOOKSHELF SPEAKER PASSIVE CROSSOVER
↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
ARDUINO DCC BASE STATION
NUTUBE VALVE PREAMPLIFIER
TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
DATE
JUN97
NOV97
NOV19
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
FEB20
FEB20
MAR20
MAR20
MAR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
MAY20
MAY20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
AUG20
NOV20
AUG20
AUG20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
OCT20
OCT20
OCT20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
DEC20
DEC20
DEC20
JAN21
JAN21
JAN21
FEB21
FEB21
FEB21
MAR21
MAR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
MAY21
MAY21
MAY21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUL21
JUL21
JUL21
AUG21
PCB CODE
Price
04106971
$5.00
10311971
$7.50
16111191
$2.50
01101201
$10.00
01101202
$7.50
09207181
$5.00
01112191
$10.00
06110191
$2.50
27111191
$5.00
01106192-6 $20.00
01102201
$7.50
21109181
$5.00
21109182
$5.00
01106193/5/6 $12.50
01104201
$7.50
01104202
$7.50
CSE200103 $7.50
06102201
$10.00
05105201
$5.00
04104201
$7.50
04104202
$7.50
01005201
$2.50
01005202
$5.00
07107201
$10.00
SC5500
$10.00
19104201
$5.00
SC5448
$7.50
15005201
$5.00
15005202
$5.00
01106201
$12.50
01106202
$7.50
18105201
$2.50
04106201
$5.00
04105201
$7.50
04105202
$5.00
08110201
$5.00
01110201
$2.50
01110202
$1.50
24106121
$5.00
16110202
$20.00
16110203
$20.00
16111191-9 $3.00
16109201
$12.50
16109202
$12.50
16110201
$5.00
16110204
$2.50
11111201
$7.50
11111202
$2.50
16110205
$5.00
CSE200902A $10.00
01109201
$5.00
16112201
$2.50
11106201
$5.00
23011201
$10.00
18106201
$5.00
14102211
$12.50
24102211
$2.50
10102211
$7.50
01102211
$7.50
01102212
$7.50
23101211
$5.00
23101212
$10.00
18104211
$10.00
18104212
$7.50
10103211
$7.50
05102211
$7.50
24106211
$5.00
24106212
$7.50
08105211
$35.00
CSE210301C $7.50
11006211
$7.50
09108211
$5.00
07108211
$15.00
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS) + 2 JOINERS
↳ JOINER ONLY (1pc)
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
2-/3-WAY ACTIVE CROSSOVER
TELE-COM INTERCOM
SMD TEST TWEEZERS (3 PCB SET)
USB CABLE TESTER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (GREEN)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER TRANSLATOR
SMD TRAINER
8-LED METRONOME
10-LED METRONOME
REMOTE CONTROL RANGE EXTENDER UHF-TO-IR
↳ IR-TO-UHF
6-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
↳ 4-CHANNEL
FAN CONTROLLER & LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
SOLID STATE TESLA COIL (SET OF 2 PCBs)
REMOTE GATE CONTROLLER
DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY SET (2 REGULATORS)
↳ REGULATOR
↳ FRONT PANEL
↳ CPU
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
↳ ACRYLIC LCD BEZEL
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK
AMPLIFIER CLIPPING DETECTOR
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER POWER SUPPLY
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ ENERGY STORAGE MODULE (ESM) PCB
500W AMPLIFIER
MODEL RAILWAY SEMAPHORE CONTROL PCB
↳ SIGNAL FLAG (RED)
AM-FM DDS SIGNAL GENERATOR
SLOT MACHINE
HIGH-POWER BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER
ARDUINO PROGRAMMABLE LOAD
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTHESISER
REV. UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
VGA PICOMITE
SECURE REMOTE MAINS SWITCH RECEIVER
↳ TRANSMITTER (1.0MM THICKNESS)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR
110dB RF ATTENUATOR
WIDE-RANGE OHMMETER
WiFi PROGRAMMABLE DC LOAD MAIN PCB
↳ DAUGHTER BOARD
↳ CONTROL BOARD
MINI LED DRIVER
NEW GPS-SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
BUCK/BOOST CHARGER ADAPTOR
30V 2A BENCH SUPPLY MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL PCB
AUTO TRAIN CONTROLLER
↳ TRAIN CHUFF SOUND GENERATOR
PIC16F18xxx BREAKOUT BOARD (DIP-VERSION)
↳ SOIC-VERSION
AVR64DD32 BREAKOUT BOARD
LC METER MK3
↳ ADAPTOR BOARD
DC TRANSIENT SUPPLY FILTER
TINY LED ICICLE (WHITE)
DATE
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
SEP21
SEP21
OCT21
OCT21
OCT21
NOV21
NOV21
NOV21
DEC21
DEC21
DEC21
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
APR22
APR22
APR22
MAY22
MAY22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
AUG22
SEP22
SEP22
SEP22
SEP22
SEP22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
OCT22
NOV22
NOV22
NOV22
NOV22
PCB CODE
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
23101214
01103191
01103192
01109211
12110121
04106211/2
04108211
04108212
09109211
01111211
16110206
29106211
23111211
23111212
15109211
15109212
01101221
01101222
01102221
26112211/2
11009121
SC6204
18107211
18107212
01106193
01106196
SC6309
07101221
01112211
29103221
29103222
29103223
01107021
09103221
09103222
CSE211002
08105221
16103221
04105221
01106221
04107192
07107221
10109211
10109212
04107221
CSE211003
04109221
04108221
04108222
18104212
16106221
19109221
14108221
04105221
04105222
09109221
09109222
24110222
24110225
24110223
CSE220503C
CSE200603
08108221
16111192
Price
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$1.00
$12.50
$2.50
$15.00
$30.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$20.00
$25.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$25.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
DUAL-CHANNEL BREADBOARD PSU
↳ DISPLAY BOARD
DIGITAL BOOST REGULATOR
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS POWER SUPPLY
DEC22
DEC22
DEC22
DEC22
04112221
04112222
24110224
01112221
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
NEW PCBs
We also sell the Silicon Chip PDFs on USB, RTV&H USB, Vintage Radio USB and more at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
mmPi add-on for Raspberry Pi
The mmPi is an add-on “hat” PCB for Raspberry Pi series
boards (Zero to Pi 4). It adds shutdown and on/off/standby
power supply control. As a bonus, it also adds up to six
analog inputs, a real-time clock and program space to write
your own code routines (in BASIC), interfacing with the
Raspberry Pi via its serial port. The mmPi uses Geoff Graham’s MMBasic (see http://geoffg.net).
The mmPi has a Microchip PIC32MX170 microcontroller programmed with MMBasic and running the “mmPi.
bas” program. The program’s main purpose is to control
a DC-to-DC power module via its shutdown/enable pin.
Pushbutton S1, connected to the circuit board, initiates
90
Silicon Chip
a shutdown or restart sequence via the mmPi, which provides the timing and hardware control to gracefully shut
down or restart the Raspberry Pi. The pushbutton shutdown/restart action requires a long press (>2 seconds),
so the button can be used for a user program with shorter
press actions.
The program also provides user feedback via LED1 and
intelligent cooling fan control (CON4) based on the Raspberry Pi CPU temperature.
When in standby, no power goes to the Raspberry Pi;
the only power usage is the throttled back PIC32MX170,
its low-power regulator and the quiescent current used by
the DC to DC power module. This standby current is less
than ~9mA.
The Standby status is retained if the low-voltage supply
is completely removed from the whole mmPi/Raspberry Pi
combination; it will not restart when power is re-applied
until the button is pressed.
The DC-to-DC converter module is based on an LM2596
IC and needs to be modified for this project. First, disconnect the right-most pin of the LM2596 (pin 5; ENA) from
the PCB, eg, by cutting the lead. Then solder a thin wire
to the stump of pin 5 on the regulator and run it to pin 7
of CON2 on the mmPi PCB.
The mmPi PCB connects to the first 16 pins of the Raspberry Pi 26/40 pin connector via CON1, and only eight
are actually used. 5V power goes to the Raspberry Pi from
the DC-DC converter via pins 2, 4, 6 & 9. The serial port,
UART0, is on pins 9 and 10.
Pins 7 & 11 of CON1 (GPIO4 & GPIO17) are used for Pi
control signals (rpi-running, rpi-shutdown). These signals
must be configured in the Raspberry Pi by editing the config.txt file. To do this, open /boot/config.txt in nano (or your
preferred editor). You need to be the root user to do this,
so prefix the command with “sudo”.
Copy or re-type the below into the file. Lines starting
with “#” are just comments.
# This sets up the ability for a pushbutton
# switch to shut it down:
# Also the Raspberry Pi’s status is
# signalled via GPIO Pin4
dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown,gpio_pin=17
dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=4,active_low=1
Assuming you’re using nano, save and exit the file with
CTRL-X, then Y, then Enter.
To have your enclosure fan controlled by mmPi using
the Raspberry Pi’s CPU temperature, you need to create a
script on the Pi (eg, called “cputemp”):
#!/bin/bash
temp=‘cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp’
echo “{pi-temp:$(($temp/1000))}” > /dev/ttyAMA0
echo “{pi-temp:$(($temp/1000))}”
Save and exit the file again with CTRL-X, Y and Enter
(again, assuming you’re using nano).
Lastly, create a crontab entry to execute this program
every minute using the “crontab -e” command. Append
the following entry:
* * * * * /bin/bash/cputemp
Save and close the file. That’s assuming you named the
script “cputemp” and placed it in your home directory.
Programming the PIC32
This can be achieved in a few ways. The easiest method
is to start with a chip pre-programmed with MMBasic and
load the “mmPi.bas” program, part of the download package for this design. That package also includes the mmPi
PCB Gerber files. You can find a HEX file to program the
PIC32 with MMBasic at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/74 or
on Geoff Graham’s website, linked earlier.
An enclosure has been designed for a Raspberry Pi 4 with
an mmPi hat. It is 3D printed and the STL files are included
in the download package, but also see: www.thingiverse.
com/thing:5143440
Michael Ogden,
Yarragon, Vic ($80).
Two different positive DC outputs from a centre-tapped transformer
Frequently, both +12V and +5V rails are required
in mains-powered equipment. Generating the 5V rail
directly from the 12V rail using a linear regulator incurs
heavy power dissipation for all but the lightest loads –
more power is always wasted than is used by the load.
Here the transformer secondary is rectified by the fullwave bridge formed from diodes D1-D4, filtered by capacitor C1, then fed to the 12V regulator.
At the same time, D3 and D4 form a full-wave centre-
tapped rectifier producing a pulsating positive potential
at the centre tap that is filtered by C2 and sent to the 5V
regulator.
The resulting peak voltage across C2
is half that of C1, so the 5V regulator has
to deal with a much lower voltage differential, resulting in lower dissipation.
The negative terminals of C1 and C2 are
common.
Importantly, there is no restriction on
the relative amount of current drawn
from each rail. If needed, the 5V rail
can be the high current supply, while
12V provides a low current or any ratio
required. The transformer VA, rectifier
ratings, and filter capacitor values can
be adjusted accordingly.
siliconchip.com.au
The same concept can be applied to 12V/24V and
24V/48V configurations commonly seen in motor-drive
systems. The lower voltage is usually regulated for the
control circuitry, and the higher one is left unregulated
for driving the motor.
As is standard with centre tapped full-wave rectifiers, a
bifilar wound secondary is preferred over a tapped single
winding to avoid the possibility of a turns mismatch causing the transformer core to ‘walk’ up the magnetisation
curve and thereby increase transformer heating losses.
Mark Hallinan,
Murwillumbah, NSW ($75).
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 91
Traverser for photography or model railway
This design arose as the result of a
request by a friend to build a control
system that could move a table with
five sections of railway track. Each
track was to be used for parking a locomotive and, when moved into alignment with the main rail, would allow
the locomotive to enter or exit the main
layout. The alignment of the rails had
to be within a fraction of a millimetre
and reproducible.
He also wanted a simple circuit
with no microprocessors that could
be repaired by anyone else without
special tools.
You can also use this sort of rig for
92
Silicon Chip
amazing time lapse photography by
placing a camera on a moving platform
and shifting it a tiny bit between each
frame. The main change you’d need
to make to my circuit for that application is to increase the RC constant
of the oscillator to achieve very slow
movement (you might even be able to
use the pulses it generates to trigger
the camera).
The necessary precision and torque
is best achieved for either application
using a screw-driven platform and
a stepper motor drive. Fortunately,
these are readily available at low cost,
and we sourced a 300mm drive from
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banggood.com (item 1416716). Testing
it with a photo-interrupter indicated
that it could achieve a reproducibility
better than 0.1mm.
I designed drive circuitry that would
work with either unipolar or bipolar
motors. The correct position to stop
the platform is defined by one of five
photo-interrupters, each with its LED
permanently lit for simplicity. The
beams are interrupted by a thin phosphor bronze finger attached to the moving platform.
The position selector switch directs
the signal to the selected photodiode,
and only when the light beam is interrupted does the output go high to
turn the motor off. This is achieved
by inverting this signal with the first
NAND gate (IC1a), and its output goes
to the second gate, IC1b. The second input to this gate is held high by
switches S1 and S2, which are used
to limit the end travel of the platform.
The output of IC1b is inverted by
the third gate, IC1c, and used to enable
an oscillator built around IC1d. The
oscillator output drives a 4017 decade
counter, which is reset on the fifth
count (when output Q4 goes high).
Outputs O0-O3 are then used to drive
the unipolar motor by activating the
transistors in a ULN2003 in turn.
siliconchip.com.au
A fifth transistor in the ULN2003
is used to power a PNP transistor Q1
that switches the motor voltage supply. This ensures that the motor coils
are not driven when the drive pulses
are not present.
Switches S1 and S2 are simple
microswitches positioned at the ends
of the track so that they open if the
platform reaches them. Switch S3
allows you to restart the motor briefly
when the direction is reversed. The
reversing switch, S5, changes the
output sequence from 0, 1, 2, 3 to 0,
3, 2, 1.
A resistor is included in series with
the motor power supply to limit the
motor current if necessary. Otherwise,
it can be linked out.
Most of the bipolar drive version circuitry shown in the panel is the same
as in Fig.1. This is the version I used
as the Banggood device came with
a bipolar stepper motor. Motor driving is simplified by a UDN2998 dual
H-bridge IC, chosen because I had it
on hand; other similar devices could
be used instead.
Control pulses are fed to the phase
inputs; the phase A pattern is 1,1,0,0
while phase B is 0,1,1,0. This is
achieved by ORing outputs O0 & O1
and O1 & O2 from the 4017 using four
small-signal diodes.
Switching power to the motor is
achieved using the UDN2998’s enable
inputs, which disables power to one
half of each bridge when high, so motor
activation is controlled by the output
of IC1b. The motor direction can be
reversed by transposing the connections to one of the coils in a similar
arrangement to S5.
Once I’d assembled everything, I
measured the locations of the four
other stop positions with a micrometer over five measurements. They
were within less than 0.1mm, about
one motor step. However, the stop
position was approximately 0.7mm
different when moving in the opposite direction.
This is due to the interrupter slot
width, but by placing the rails at
an intermediate point, the traverser
should stop within 0.3mm of the ideal
point – more than adequate. I made
some allowance for fine adjustment by
only mounting the photo-interrupters
with one screw. This permits them to
be rotated slightly left or right.
Graham P. Jackman,
Melbourne, Vic ($100).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 93
Vintage Television
1946 RCA 621TS television restoration
By Dr Hugo Holden
The 621TS is a
remarkable television
set. It is RCA’s
first post-WW2
set, using pre-war
television technology
but introducing
several new ideas.
These include line
output efficiency
damping, FM sound,
complex line output
transformer core
metallurgy and
improvements in CRT
design.
T
he 1946 RCA 621TS set has a
7-inch (18cm) screen with a 7DP4
CRT. The 7DP4 has an 8kV maximum
EHT voltage (typically 6kV), uses an
ion trap magnet and provides a very
bright, high-contrast picture.
The cabinet was designed by the
respected industrial designer John
Vassos in 1941. WW2 meant a six-year
delay to get it to market. The model
was quickly replaced by a 10-inch
(25cm) set, the RCA 630TS, with a
10BP4 CRT.
The chassis of the set I acquired was
in very poor and rusted condition, typical for its age – see Photo 1. It required
a complete rebuild using similar techniques to those used in the HMV904
restoration (described in the November 2018 issue – see siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11314).
In the post-war period, it became
standard practice to enclose the line
output transformer and EHT rectifier
in a separate cage, in this case on the
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Silicon Chip
lower-right of the chassis. The power
transformer at lower left was mounted
on the chassis under-surface to keep
it as far as possible from the CRT, to
avoid magnetic interference with the
beam.
TV overview
WW2 somewhat delayed the
621TS’s development. One of its
An example image of the set taken
from an advertisement.
Australia's electronics magazine
important new design elements was
a 7-inch electromagnetically deflected
CRT with a high final anode voltage of 7.5kV. This gave a bright,
high-contrast image that could easily be viewed in good room lighting.
Most pre-WW2 TVs ran lower EHT
voltages and could not produce such
a high-contrast image.
The 621TS was designed to receive
the standard American VHF range of
TV station frequencies for channel 1
(45.25MHz video carrier, 49.75MHz
sound) to 13 (211.25MHz video,
215.75MHz sound).
The set’s oscillator runs above the
received channel frequencies. Taking
channel 1 as an example, the Kallitron
oscillator runs at 71MHz. The sound
intermediate frequency (IF) emerging
from the tuner is at 21.25MHz, while
the picture (video) IF is 25.75MHz.
The picture (video) carrier is amplitude modulated (AM) while the
sound is frequency modulated (FM),
siliconchip.com.au
compared to pre-WW2 TV sets which
had AM sound.
The sound carrier wave was transmitted 4.5MHz higher than the vision
carrier; they had not yet moved to
‘inter-carrier sound’. In this system,
the two carriers beat together at the
video detector output to produce a
4.5MHz carrier wave, passing on to a
4.5MHz sound IF amplifier.
However, in the 621TS, the
21.25MHz sound IF carrier is taken
directly from the converter coil into
the sound IF. Only a few years later,
most American TVs had moved to
inter-carrier sound. The advantage
was that the sound did not drift out
of tune with variations in local oscillator frequency.
At the tail end of this amplifier is
the FM detector, in this case, a discriminator type where the driving
stage is designed to amplitude-limit
the 4.5MHz carrier. Later, many manufacturers moved to a ratio detector
design, which has the advantage of
inherent amplitude limiting.
You can find the service manual
with circuit diagrams etc at the Early
Television Foundation website:
siliconchip.au/link/abge
Tuner
The tuner is a separate assembly
very similar to the type of tuned box
seen in practically all TV sets after
1946. However, it does not use a rotating drum; instead, it has an array of
rotary switches.
The tuner is very elegant and is
based on three 6J6 twin triodes. Based
on one 6J6 dual triode (V1), the input
stage is a para-phase (differential
amplifier) that is neutralised by two
small 1.5pF capacitors from the plate
of one triode to the grid of the other.
This design became very popular later
in wideband oscilloscope circuits.
In this case, though, the anode loads
are broadly tuned in the region of the
received station frequency.
The received frequencies are then
passed to the converter (mixer) stage,
V2, using inductive link coupling. The
converter also receives the signal from
the local oscillator, again by inductive link coupling, and the signals are
mixed in the plate circuits of both the
triodes of the V2, which are connected
together in the converter stage to feed
the converter coil.
The converter stage has an astonishingly large converter coil with a
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 1: the
chassis of the
621TS was
acquired with a
heaping of dust
and rust.
large tuning slug. The coil assembly is
close to 25mm in diameter and about
75mm tall.
Oscillator
The 6J6 twin triode local oscillator
circuit around V3, shown in Fig.1,
is pleasingly symmetrical. On its
face, it could be regarded as an over-
neutralised (unstable) para-phase
amplifier which, with high feedback
from each plate to the grid of the other
triode via the 4.7pF capacitors, resembles a classic multi-vibrator circuit.
However, the load for each plate is
a split resonant circuit which generates a negative resistance. If a negative
resistance is applied across a resonant
or tank circuit, it will oscillate.
The arrangement is a “Kallitron oscillator” (sometimes
spelled with one L, but it
has two Ls in Terman’s Radio
Engineers’ Handbook).
adjustment) creates the bandpass characteristic of the video IF. In this set,
the bandpass characteristic is very
well described in the service manual
(Fig.2). The bandpass characteristic
is only in the order of 3MHz for the
video, which is enough to support a
fairly detailed picture on the relatively
small screen.
Later, as the CRTs got bigger, the
bandwidth had to increase to have
good high-frequency picture detail. In
RCA’s next TV, the 630TS, they moved
to a 10-inch CRT, and the video bandwidth was a little closer to 4MHz.
Video & audio IF stages
The video IF stage consists of
a string of four stagger-tuned
circuits based on 6AG5 pentodes V101, V102, V103 &
V104. Like the 6J6, these revolutionary small 7-pin types
would ultimately lead to the
demise of their larger octal-base
counterparts. A few years later,
the 6AG5 turned out to be an
excellent performer in the VHF
turret tuner units of many brands
of TV sets.
The stagger tuning (with correct
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.1: the oscillator section of the
circuit, based on a 6J6 dual triode (V3).
December 2022 95
Fig.2: with the receiver RF
oscillator operating at a higher
frequency than the received
carrier, the intermediate frequency
relation of picture to sound carrier
is reversed as shown below.
picture signals. The FM sound detector has the typical S-shape required
for FM sound demodulation.
The audio stages consist of 6AT6
triode driver V117 and 6K6 audio output stage V118. The maximum power
output from a 6K6 is generally around
4W, similar to the more common 6V6
beam power valve, so there is plenty
of audio power.
Vertical scan
The curve shown is typical of the picture IF
amplifier response.
The output from the video detector, an octal 6H6 (V104A), passes to
video preamplifier triode V105, half
of a 6SN7. The other half is used for
video output to the CRT.
One interesting feature is that the
video DC restoration is done at the
grid of this video output valve. The
positive sync tips cause grid current,
with the grid-cathode acting as a diode.
This clamps the sync tip and the black
level to a stable point. The anode of
this valve is directly coupled into the
grid of the 7DP4 CRT.
The plate load of the 6SN7b has
both shunt and series peaking with
inductors to maintain the frequency
response required for the video signal. This became industry standard
for the video output stage. The video
background is unstable, depending
on the image contrast, without direct
coupling from the video detector and
amplifier to the CRT or DC restoration.
The sound carrier frequency of
21.25MHz is filtered out by T101 to
avoid any sound interfering with the
This is handled by another 6SN7
(V107). One triode is used as a combined blocking oscillator and discharge valve with a small transformer,
running at 60Hz. The other triode in
the 6SN7 is used for the vertical output.
‘Discharge’ in this case refers to rapidly discharging a ‘sawtooth’ capacitor, C130, which is then charged via a
high resistance source. This generates
the sawtooth wave required for the
scan. However, a trapezoidal wave is
needed to develop a sawtooth current
in an inductor with resistance, such as
the vertical yoke coils.
This is created by placing a small
resistor, typically less than 5kW (here
R149 = 3.3kW) in series with the sawtooth capacitor. The vertical output
transformer matches the output stage
to the vertical yoke coils in the usual
manner.
Horizontal scan and
EHT generation
The horizontal oscillator, running at
15.75kHz, is also half of another 6SN7,
V108. The oscillator is synchronised
on a line-by-line basis from the sync
pulses. By the late 1940s, this idea was
abandoned in favour of an automatic
frequency control circuit (AFC) with
better noise immunity, operating on
the same principles as a phase-locked
loop (PLL).
The other triode in the same 6SN7
is used as a separate discharge valve.
The drive then passes to a substantial power output valve (6BG6, V109)
with a 0.9A heater. It is specifically
designed to be a ‘sweep valve’ for
horizontal output stages, withstanding very high peak anode voltages in
the order of 6.6kV. Peaks of a few kV
appear on the anode during flyback
in this set.
The flyback circuit uses energy
recovery damping (with 5V4 damper
diode V111). See the following panel
on “The evolution of the damper
diode” for details.
This was a revolution in TV design,
providing highly-efficient horizontal
scanning using the stored magnetic
energy from the right half of the scan to
scan the left side. At the same time, it
created the high voltage flyback pulse
that could be stepped up to many kilovolts and be rectified, in this case with
a 1B3 rectifier (V110) to run the CRT’s
final anode.
Before this idea of using the energy
recovery diode, the scanning was less
efficient, and the required damping
wasted energy in resistors and sometimes diodes as heat.
Generally, because pre-WW2 sets
had no high voltage spike in the horizontal scan output stages from which
to derive EHT, they simply used a line
transformer. Large filter capacitors
were needed to remove the ripple, and
the supplies were a lot more dangerous
Photos 2 & 3: the line output transformer (shown disassembled at left, and whole at right) has an advanced moulded iron
core made of three parts. This was around the time most manufacturers were switching to ferrite-cored transformers.
96
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 4: the
unrestored chassis
without the CRT. The
photo above shows a
close-up of one of the
valves with a lead
shield.
as they could source higher currents
and store more energy.
It is safer to have a flyback supply
with a relatively high internal resistance to generate the few milliamps
needed. A supply that can deliver
more than 30mA at several kV is hazardous.
Contrary to what some believe, the
charge stored on the bulb of a CRT after
turn off is low and generally cannot
harm a person as a one-off discharge.
This is why, even with the set running, very few if any TV technicians
have received a fatal shock from a flyback EHT supply for a CRT, as they
can mostly only source relatively low
currents.
Line output transformer
The line output transformer in
this set is very interesting. It has an
advanced moulded iron core made of
three parts (it’s visible disassembled
in Photo 2 and assembled in Photo 3).
The core is intermediate in appearance
between a ferrite dust core and an
iron core.
Laminated iron cores struggled to
work well at the 15.75kHz horizontal scan frequency. However, some
UK-made TV sets still used iron-cored
line output transformers even in the
post-war period. Within a decade after
the 621TS was released, most American TV manufacturers had moved to
ferrite-cored horizontal output transformers.
This basic design set the standard
for practically all line output transformers to follow, complete with the
two-turn winding for the EHT rectifier.
A dirty and rusty chassis
Photo 4 shows the unrestored chassis with the CRT removed, with a
close-up after I had removed the superficial dust and dirt removed. One valve
has a lead shield, with a spring clip
holding it in place.
As is standard practice, I hollowed
out the original wax paper capacitors
and fitted new polyester types with
double the original voltage ratings
inside. I then poured polyester into
each end to seal them up on alternate days.
After that, I had the chassis finebead blasted to remove all the rust,
re-plated with 20-micron electro-less
nickel, and lacquer coated. This helps
to avoid corrosion and finger marks.
I rebuilt the tuner first. The tuner in
this set is ‘space age’ sophisticated for
1946. Its features include a differential
input RF amplifier with neutralisation
based on a 6J6, another 6J6 Kallitron
oscillator and the spectacular large
mixer coil driven by the combined
anode signals from another 6J6. The
use of a combination of both ferromagnetic materials and brass slugs to tune
the coils is also advanced.
The idea behind the large mixer coil
(seen on the top of Photos 5 & 6) is to
create a very high-Q, loosely coupled
selective sound take-off. The large
sound IF coil is spaced away from
the former to avoid it being tuned by
distributed capacitance; instead, it is
tuned mainly by the ‘high-Q’ 62pF
dog-bone ceramic capacitor across it.
The mixer anode coil for the video
is broadly tuned and loaded by a 10kW
resistor and the plate impedance of the
6J6 mixer valve.
While restoring the tuner, I replaced
most of the bypass/coupling capacitors with silver mica types, except
the local oscillator feedback capacitors. I replaced those with 500V 4.7pF
mil-spec dog-bone ceramic capacitors
with the same temperature coefficient
as the originals. The same goes for the
...continued on page 100
Photos 5 & 6: the disassembled (left) and assembled (right) RF tuner. The tuner knob has dual-control with the more
protruded section providing station selection while the rest is used for fine tuning.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 97
The complete circuit
diagram for the RCA
621TS TV set.
98
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siliconchip.com.au
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Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 99
Photos 7, 8 & 9:
the chassis as it
progressed through
restoration. All
resistors were
changed to 2W
metal film types,
and the wiring
cleaned up.
1.5pF neutralisation capacitors in the
6J6-based RF amplifier.
I mainly used metal film resistors
throughout. That helps to keep the
noise down a little. The valve sockets
are NOS (new old stock), including
the original push-on shield type for
the local oscillator valve. I replaced
the push-on shield, identical to the
rusted original. I also replaced the rivets and original screws with 4-40 and
6-32 stainless steel screws (to avoid
future rusting).
Although I used stainless locking washers, applying varnish to the
threads never hurts, so I did.
Restoration well underway
Photos 7-9 show the chassis’ progress throughout the restoration. By
Photo 9, the underside of the chassis
was re-wired and fitted with all-new
resistors, wiring and valve sockets.
The resistors are now all 2W metal film
types, yet the same size as the original
1/4W or 1/2W types.
After replacing the innards, I
cleaned the wax off the cardboard
shells of the wax paper capacitors and
varnished them with marine grade varnish. This way, they look excellent,
but the surface is not tacky to touch
and won’t pick up as much dust as
wax does.
I replaced the octal sockets with
American mil-spec brown phenolic
sockets with wrap-around pins and
stainless steel saddles. Similarly, I
replaced the 7-pin sockets with American phenolic sockets from Antique
Electronic Supply (AES).
AES (USA) supplied all the new
capacitors, including the micas, electros and polyesters, several NOS
valves for the set, the 300BX power
transformer and new tag strips. They
always send me excellent valves and
parts at competitive prices.
The adjustable IF coils had very
rusty spring mounting clips, so I
replaced them with new ones, as they
are a common part of many NOS coils.
The originals were soldered to the
chassis on the top, presumably to prevent capacitive effects from affecting the IF tuning. I simply soldered
them to the nearest Earth lugs under
the chassis with a short link wire to
avoid soldering to the top surface of
the chassis.
The new wiring is medical-grade
silicone rubber covered hook-up wire,
which looks just like old-fashioned
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Photo 10: the
top of the
chassis once
nearly finished
being restored.
rubber-covered wire, but is extremely
heat resistant, and this insulation
never melts back near the solder joints
(even if the iron is set to 480°C). The
wire is pleasant to handle and flexible,
but stays where it is put on the whole.
It is about 2.5mm outside diameter and
has 16 strands.
Once you have used superior wire
like this, it is tough to go back to
PVC-covered wire or anything else.
Silicone covered wire is available
from Jaycar, Altronics and RS components.
I stuck to the colour scheme on
the wiring diagram where possible.
Fabric-
c overed wire is available,
although I suspect it would meet the
same fate as the original wire over the
next 60 years. The silicone rubber wire
will outlast it, I’m sure. Ideally, I want
the restoration to look about the same
in 50 years.
Photo 10 shows the top of the chassis close to the end of the restoration
process.
Photo 11: I
designed this
support to
allow the CRT
to be mounted
when the
chassis is out
of the cabinet.
The support
sits on top of
the speaker
brackets and
is shown in
greater detail
in Fig.3 below.
Mounting the CRT for testing
The 621TS chassis design only
allows the CRT to be mounted properly when the chassis is in the cabinet. This is very inconvenient when
the chassis is out of the cabinet, so I
designed the support shown in Fig.3.
It is attached by lengthening the two
upper speaker screws and adding two
spacers, and it sits on the speaker
brackets (see Photo 11).
The screw holes are best marked out
after the bracket is in place. The CRT
sits on it, and you can strap the CRT
to the bracket with a large (industrial-
sized) Nylon cable tie with the chassis
out of the cabinet. The added timber
bracket can stay put when the chassis
is re-fitted to the cabinet, and the CRT
is mounted in the usual way.
The radius of curvature of the cutout in the timber is 93.5mm. This is
reduced to 90.5mm when the rubber
cushion is added to hug the CRT curvature. The bracket geometry ensures
the CRT neck is very close to level
with the chassis surface. No extra
holes need to be drilled to fit it. Photo
12 shows the CRT fitted to the chassis
with the assistance of the bracket for
testing and adjustment.
Power transformer
Photo 13 includes the original
power transformer. I took the copper
flux band and covers off it and blasted
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the support bracket helps the neck of the CRT reach close to level with
the chassis surface, it’s designed so that no extra holes need to be drilled into
the chassis to fit it. It is attached by lengthening two screws from the speaker
brackets and adding two spacers. The screw holes can be marked out by hand
after the bracket is in place.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 101
Photos 12 & 13: the CRT shown fitted to the chassis (left) and the original & new power transformers (right)
the original brackets free of rust, then
had them powder-coated black. The
finish looks very similar to the original
and is corrosion and scratch-resistant.
I then added the restored brackets to
a new Hammond 300BX transformer,
discarding the Hammond covers as
they are pretty different. The two transformers have very close to the same
geometry stack, just with the holes
placed a little differently. The two
wires for the 120V configured primary
windings have to exit via an additional
hole in the top bracket.
The reason for doing all this is that
the original power transformer is not
safe to run again, especially in Australia with our 50Hz supply frequency.
The transformer has very aged and
cracked insulation and draws an
excessive magnetisation current at
50Hz.
For example, with no load, the RMS
current at 115-120V 50Hz is 1.5A,
compared to 47mA for the Hammond
300BX transformer configured for
120V, which is designed for 50/60Hz
operation. In general, old American
60Hz transformers run very hot on
50Hz. There are also significant stray
magnetic fields generated. Switching
to the Hammond transformer solved
the problem.
The windings on the Hammond are
close to an exact match for the original.
I connected two 5V 1.2A windings in
parallel to run the 5V4G damper diode,
used one 5V 3A winding for the 5U4G,
one 6V 6A winding for the main heaters and one 800V centre-tapped winding for the HT supply.
There is only one winding ‘missing’,
a small 6.3V one for the CRT heater, so
I added a small auxiliary transformer
102
Silicon Chip
for that. There is a convenient place
to locate it, and only one hole needs
to be drilled to mount it. I made this
by winding a small 1:1.17 ratio isolating transformer, which gives a separate 6.3V output at 0.6A to provide
the CRT heater supply from the power
transformer’s 6.3V winding.
Note that the data sheet on Hammond’s website says the 300BX has
only one 5V 1.2A winding when, in
fact, it has two.
At switch-on from cold, the heavy
loading of all of the TV’s low-resistance
cold heaters results in a slow rise in
the initial heater currents due to the
limited current handling ability of the
power transformer. So, in a sense, the
larger valves protect the smaller ones
at switch-on.
But in series heater chains, resistors or thermistors (Brimistors) are
needed as the internal resistance of
the mains power supply is very low
and the initial surge current in the
cold heater chain is very high. The
smaller valves warm up first (due to
lower thermal inertia) and more voltage is developed across their heaters
without current limiting.
It is interesting to note that the same
problem described above will occur
within any indirectly heated valve
if you connect the heater pins across
a power supply of very low internal
resistance. The part of the heater close
to its internal connections warms up
first, as there is less thermal inertia
there than the part in contact with
the cathode or the weld to the pin
connection.
So you will get an initial bright
flash from that area of the heater at
turn on. In fact, you can get this effect
if you unplug nearly all of the large
valves in a TV, except for a small one.
At switch-on, you’ll also get a bright
flash, as the large power transformer
is, under these circumstances, able to
maintain 6.3V across the single small
valve’s pins without the voltage collapsing under load.
I had to replace the two-turn heater
winding for the 1B3 rectifier as the
original had degraded insulation. I
found some identical geometry wire
Photo 14: the original cabinet had
been enlarged around the CRT.
Photo 15: I cut a piece of oak to
reproduce the original CRT window.
Valve heater inrush currents
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Photo
16: the
restored
cabinet
with the
newly
made
CRT
cutout.
inside the red sheath of some modern
25kV anode wire.
Also, all of the large Allen Bradley resistors in the focus chain were
open-circuit. I replaced them with
10kV-rated Philips focus-grade resistors.
I also replaced the doorknob capacitor with a 1000pF 15kV type (the same
physical size as the original 500pF
capacitor), allowing for CRTs without
external Aquadag. I’m not 100% sure
if the original doorknob capacitor is
OK; it only reads 375pF, and I’ve read
reports of them failing in the 621TS.
Electrical alignment
I aligned the set according to the
manufacturer’s instructions but also
with the aid of a sweep generator.
Scope 1 shows the overall response
from the antenna to the video detector.
Screen 1 is an un-retouched image
taken via a camcorder on still frame
with an RF modulator. The broad grey
vertical band at the top is an artefact
of the camera’s exposure time versus
the scanning frame rate of the picture.
Cabinet restoration
One big problem I had with the set
was that the cabinet section over the
CRT face had been cut away to enlarge
the viewable area of the CRT. Perhaps
one previous owner wanted a bigger
picture! So some timber was missing,
as shown in Photo 14. I cut out a square
area and glued in some Tasmanian oak
to repair this.
I then varnished it and shaped it
to match the original design and fit
the curved CRT face. Applying varnish initially helps with getting the
geometry right as one files the timber
away by hand.
Finally, I lacquered it to match
the original part and got the result
shown in Photo 15. Photo 16 shows
the restored cabinet, while the lead
photo is the final result.
Summary
The 621TS is an extraordinary television set, marking a major milestone
in commercial TV manufacturing. The
entire design is futuristic, and the performance is outstanding for a set put
on sale in 1946.
FM sound became the gold standard
Scope 1: the overall response from the antenna.
siliconchip.com.au
for television audio after WW2, and the
line deflection energy recovery system
did too. Any similarly-sized monochrome television set made decades
later would not have outperformed it.
The design of the 621TS, except for
the absence of the inter-carrier sound
system and a horizontal AFC system
(both of which would come in later
TV designs), set the ‘modern standard’
of what a monochrome TV would be
right up until the mid-1970s.
Finally, from the perspective of
industrial design, Mr Vassos created
yet another Art Deco masterpiece.
↪ see panel overleaf
Screen 1: an image of the 621TS screen from a camcorder.
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 103
The evolution of the damper diode in TV line output stages
Very basic coupling of the yoke to the line output valve
via a transformer is shown in Fig.a. At flyback, the valve
is cut off and the magnetic field in the transformer and
yoke collapses, resonating due to the self-inductance
and distributed capacitance of these structures. The
oscillatory voltages and currents are due to relatively
undamped oscillations.
These oscillations, visible in the scanning raster, decay
away and become damped out when the line output
valve is again driven into conduction by the drive voltage. These oscillations must be eliminated for satisfactory raster scanning.
Fig.b shows the same circuit but with resistive damping. Damping occurs over the entire duration of the sawtooth current scanning waveform, on both the positive
and negative excursions, ie, it is bidirectional damping.
This is wasteful of energy, lengthens the flyback period,
and reduces the opportunity to utilise the positive-going
high voltage spikes generated at the line output valve’s
anode, or via an overwind coil, to generate EHT.
Fig.c shows an improvement to resistive damping using
a snubber network. This technique is used in the 1939
HMV Marconi 904. The RC network is frequency-selective,
applying the most damping to the parts of the waveform
with the highest rates of change.
This reduces the oscillations (shown in red); however,
because the flyback period contains high-frequency (Fourier) components, it is also damped. Again, this wastes
energy and lengthens the flyback period.
Fig.d shows what might appear to be the introduction
of an efficiency diode as in the RCA TRK9 (and TRK 12),
but it is not. This circuit has the damper conducting only
during flyback and is actually a spike suppressor. A true
efficiency diode conducts during the active scan time
on the left-hand side of the scanning raster, and recovers energy from the yoke and line output transformer
magnetic fields.
The circuit of Fig.d damps the flyback voltage oscillations and absorbs energy when the output valve is cut
off. This arrangement can’t be used in a system to generate EHT from the flyback voltage spike.
In 1938, the Baird/Bush TV and radio company in the
United Kingdom used the circuit shown in Fig.e (on the
left side). This is probably one of the first examples of
energy recovery scanning.
When the magnetic field in the line output transformer
collapses, the diode conducts on the first negative half-
cycle of voltage on the diode’s cathode to produce a
more linear rate of change in current. This damps the
oscillations and also returns energy to the power supply.
This was the precursor of the typical transistorised
line output stage in early transistor televisions in the
early 1960s, depicted on the right of Fig.e.
Although the circuit in Fig.f looks a little similar to
that in Fig.e, it is actually quite different, with the diode
on the transformer secondary side. Observe the transformer polarity.
The current from damping the oscillations charges
capacitor Cb and provides energy to load R. Cb charges
up and lifts the cathode potential of the damper diode.
Fig.a
Fig.b
Fig.e
104
Fig.f
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
So the plate potential has to rise to a higher value to
establish conduction.
This helps ensure that the diode is not conducting
until the start of active scan time, so there is negligible
damping during the flyback period.
This system is “recovering energy” from the magnetic
field of the yoke and transformer, which was stored at
the end of active horizontal scan time, and delivering
it to a load.
This is the basic circuit used in the RCA 621TS, except
the voltage generated across the capacitor is in series
with the B+ voltage to create what we now know as B+
boost voltage.
When the line output valve is cut off at flyback, the first
voltage oscillation half-cycle takes the damper anode
negative (cutting it off during flyback). The damper
anode has the opposite polarity to the anode of the line
output valve. Then when the oscillation brings the voltage positive, the damper conducts.
This damps the oscillations and results in a near-
linear scanning current at the left side of the raster, as
the magnetic field in the yoke and transformer now collapse in a controlled (damped) linear way toward zero.
However, before the current reaches zero, the line output
valve is driven into conduction and the process repeats.
The yoke and transformer circuit is equivalent to an
inductor with series resistance tuned by parallel distributed capacitance (or a tuning capacitor if fitted). The voltage you see across the transformer or yoke’s terminals
represents the voltage across the capacitive component,
which lags behind the circuit current by 90°.
When the output valve is cut off, the circuit current
during the flyback period is associated with a negative
peak voltage on the damper anode and a positive peak on
the line output valve’s anode. These peaks occur around
the middle of the 10.16μs flyback interval (for the American system). At the time of this peak, the yoke’s current
is zero (but has its greatest rate of change) and the rate
of change of voltage on the diode’s anode, although at
its peak, is zero.
After that, the secondary voltage returns to zero after
flyback, and the current is at a negative maximum with
the beam on the left of the raster. As the voltage at the
damper anode attempts to oscillate in a positive direction, the damper diode conducts, damping the oscillations
and giving a more linear current at the beginning of active
scan time on the left side of the raster.
The load resistor can now be replaced with the primary
circuit, as shown in Fig.g. RCA used this basic circuit in
the 621TS, and this, or a modified version of it, became
the ‘modern Standard’ for line output stage deflection
using valves ever since. Cb’s negative end can either be
returned to ground or B+ as shown, which is at ground
from an AC perspective.
Now the recovered potential energy generated by the
magnetic field of the yoke and transformer, which was
provided by the primary circuit at the end of the scan
(right side of the raster), is used to generate a boost
voltage to help supply the primary circuit. This gives a
higher primary supply potential, the B+ Boost voltage,
which helps attain the required picture width from a
lower-voltage B+ supply.
Fig.c
Fig.d
Fig.g
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.h
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 105
As is always the case, no additional energy is created
that was not already supplied by the power supply in the
first place.
The circuit is simply more efficient because overall,
the damped current is not wasted as heat, which it is in
all cases of resistive damping.
Moving on the Fig.h, we can see what happens if we
redraw Fig.g circuit with Cb connected to ground. This circuit, as deployed in the 621TS with slight modifications,
is the basis for modern valve line scanning.
At switch-on, a direct current flows via the secondary winding and the damper diode to charge Cb to B+
potential and to initially supply the B+ to the primary circuit. During operation, the voltage across Cb charges to
B+ Boost. Therefore, Cb needs to be rated to handle this
higher voltage.
This circuit is inconvenient because the transformer
cannot be configured as an auto-transformer. But it is a
minor modification to introduce B+ directly at the anode
of the damper diode. Then, the circuit comprising the
secondary, damper diode and Cb can be rotated to create the circuit of Fig.i.
This circuit has the advantage that the Cb only needs to
be rated to handle the Boost component of the B+ Boost
voltage, rather than the total amount. Also, the primary and
secondary can be one tapped winding, with the yoke coupled across any part of it, in an efficient autotransformer
configuration. Admiral used this basic configuration in
the early 1950s, for example, in their series 23 chassis.
By the time that efficient energy recovery line output
stages arrived, it had become the custom, as it is in the
621TS, to derive the EHT from an over-wind linked to
the plate circuit of the line output valve shown in red in
Fig.i. The heater supply for this EHT diode was derived
from a small number of well-insulated turns on the output transformer.
Other variations of damper diode circuits from the
post-war period include a triode pair used as a controlled
damper diode, which gives additional control over the linSC
earity of the sawtooth scanning current.
Fig.i
Improved SMD Test Tweezers
Complete Kit for $35
Includes everything pictured (now comes
with tips!), except the lithium button cell.
●
●
●
●
●
●
106
Resistance measurement: 10W to 1MW
Capacitance measurements: ~10pF to 150μF
Diode measurements: polarity & forward voltage, up to about 3V
Compact OLED display readout with variable orientation
Runs from a single lithium coin cell, ~five years of standby life
Can measure components in-circuit under some circumstances
Silicon Chip
SC5934: $35 + postage
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/5934
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Help needed installing
Microchip software
I read Tim Blythman’s article on the
new range of PICs & AVRs from Microchip (October 2022; siliconchip.au/
Article/15505) and decided to download the MPLAB X IDE. I am finding
it impossible to achieve registration
and thus use the software.
How much does it cost, and where
can I purchase such software and a
suitable programming interface board
between my HP laptop and the Microchip devices? I have used the PICAXE
range of microcontrollers and Arduinos, but I am always looking for an
alternative to the PICAXE platform. (P.
H., Gunnedah, NSW)
● We have never had to register
MPLAB X IDE to use it; it is free software. Version 6.00 is the latest version
and we have been using it for a few
months now, so we don’t think that
has changed lately.
Registering and paying for the Pro
versions of the XC8/XC16/XC32 compilers is possible, but that is only necessary if you wish to use the non-free
versions. The free versions are pretty
good anyway; certainly good enough
to get you started.
Check that you are using version
6.00 of the IDE (www.microchip.com/
en-us/tools-resources/develop/mplabx-ide). At what stage of the installation
are you being asked to register? If you
send us a screenshot, we can provide
more help.
If you have the January 2021 issue,
which includes the article “How to use
the MPLAB X Development Environment”, starting on page 48, you could
refer to the screenshots to guide you
through the installation steps.
As for a programmer, you can purchase a PICkit 4 or Snap programmer
from a range of sources such as DigiKey, Mouser, element14 or direct from
Microchip: www.microchip.com/
en-us/development-tool/PG164140
GPS Clock ‘USB device
not recognised’
I assembled the GPS Analog Clock
Driver (September 2022; siliconchip.
au/Article/15466) as per your instructions. I managed to remove a bridge
I’d made between the pins of IC3 but
did not see the bridge between pins 1
& 2 on CON4 until later. On installing
the two AA cells, I was rewarded with
two winks from the LED.
When I plugged the USB cable into
my Windows 10 PC, I got three winks
from the LED – but Windows told me,
“USB device not recognised”. That is
when I went back and discovered the
solder bridge on the USB socket.
With the USB socket fixed, I tried
again and got the same message. I have
tried four different USB cables and
three different USB ports. I have again
gone over all the wiring with a 40x
loupe and can’t fault it. Could I have
killed a chip, or have I missed something else? (R. W., King Creek, NSW)
● Geoff Graham responds: It sounds
like you have tried everything.
“USB device not recognised” is
Windows universal message when it
detects something on the USB D+ and
D- signal lines, but it cannot establish
communications. The microcontroller
seems to be working as it detects the
+5V on the USB connector and goes
into configuration mode (three flashes
on the LED). So it is probably something between the microcontroller
and your PC.
It is very doubtful that you have
damaged the microcontroller. I would:
• Recheck the soldering on the USB
socket very carefully; this is usually
the problem.
U Cable Tester
S
B
Test just about any USB cable!
USB-A (2.0/3.2) USB-B (2.0/3.2)
USB-C Mini-B Micro-B (2.0/3.2)
Reports faults with individual cable
ends, short circuits, open circuits,
voltage drops and cable resistance etc
November & December 2021 issue
siliconchip.com.au/Series/374
DIY kit for $110
SC5966 – siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/5966
Everything included except the case and batteries. Postage is $10 within Australia, see our website for overseas & express post rates
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 107
Difficulty measuring the resistance of NTC thermistors
Can you explain why I get three different readings when measuring an NPO [sic]
thermistor resistance at room temperature with three different multimeters?
I get a reading of around 6kW using a Micronta multimeter, 3kW using a Tenma
multimeter and 2kW when using a cheap, unbranded multimeter (miniature black
case with a 12V battery).
Supplying the thermistor with a constant current of 0.27mA, all three multimeters
measured the same voltage across the thermistor, giving a calculated resistance
of 2.05kW. (N. S., via email)
● We suspect that the thermistor is an NTC type rather than “NPO”, and its
resistance falls with temperature; NTC stands for negative temperature coefficient.
The thermistor is probably a small bead type giving a nominal 10kW at 25°C.
The lower and varying resistance readings by your multimeters would be due to
the heating caused by dissipation in the thermistor from the test current, raising
the temperature of the thermistor and hence lowering the resistance. The readings
likely vary due to differing test currents, resulting in the thermistor being measured
at different temperatures.
The fact that the calculated resistance reading is the same for all multimeters
when using a fixed current pretty much confirms this theory. Consider that 0.27mA
through 2.05kW is 150mW dissipation (0.27mA2 × 2.05kW), which would be enough
to warm up a small bead-type thermistor significantly.
If you want to measure its true ‘cold’ resistance, we suggest using a much lower
test current, like 10μA. That should result in 1mW dissipation, not enough to heat
it significantly, and should give a reading close to 100mV across the thermistor if
it’s a nominally 10kW type (10μA x 10kW = 100mV).
• Recheck your cables and PC USB
ports. I know you have done that,
but this is the second most common
problem.
• Check the continuity of all USB
connector pins to the microcontroller’s pins.
• Go into Device Manager in Windows and (if possible) disable the entry
listed as “Unrecognised USB device”.
• Check that you have at least +3V
as VCC for the microcontroller.
Also, try this:
1. Insert the batteries into the clock.
2. Observe two flashes on the LED.
3. Then plug the USB into your
computer.
4. Observe three flashes on the LED
5. You should hear the USB connect
sound from your PC, and Windows
should show a new COM port.
GPS-synchronised
Clock is losing time
I have built the GPS Analog Clock
Driver (September 2022) from your
SC6472 kit (v1.1). After installing
it, the clock is lagging horrendously
(approximately 10 minutes every
hour). I have reverted the changes, and
the clock works well with the original
mechanism.
I wonder if the problem lies with
the inductor, as it differs from what
108
Silicon Chip
is shown on page 62 of the September 2022 issue. It is also considerably
smaller, and I had to solder a bridge to
be able to fix it to the board. Could you
please advise? (O. M., Willetton, WA)
● Geoff Graham responds: Your problem is not due to the size of the inductor. Due to a mix-up with part numbers, you received a physically smaller
inductor, but it has the correct value
and will work just as well.
There are a few reasons why you
could be experiencing such a large
timekeeping error. The most probable
is that you have a problem with the
movement; for example, some debris
has fallen into the gears. I know that
you reverted to the original controller and it worked, but you might have
cleared the problem while making
that change.
Other (less probable) things to
check are:
• Did you properly isolate the
clock’s controller chip by cutting the
PCB track leading to it?
• Do you have the correct value
padding capacitors (22pF) on the
crystal? Presumably you do as they
were supplied in the kit, but it’s worth
checking them if you have a suitable
test instrument.
• Is the crystal working correctly at
the right frequency? An oscilloscope
would be handy here.
Australia's electronics magazine
• Are the batteries fresh (ie, approximately 1.5V each)?
• Recheck your soldering carefully,
joint by joint and recheck the value of
each component.
Many constructors have it running fine (hundreds by this stage, we
reckon), so there must be something
unique that has happened in your
case. The problem will be in finding
exactly what it is.
GPS-Synchronised
Clock not restarting
The GPS-Synchronised Clock (September 2022) is a great little project
– the first I’ve built in many years!
But I have a problem: I cannot do a
full restart. I dropped the clock and
had to make some repairs, but even
though I’ve taken the batteries out for
several hours, the clock won’t go into
restart mode. Any ideas? (K. M., Narara, NSW)
● Geoff Graham responds: That is
a strange fault. By “cannot do a full
restart”, I presume that you mean that
when you reinsert the batteries, the
clock immediately starts running (ie,
driving the hands).
If this is the case, I suggest you insert
the batteries, then plug it into a USB
host. That should force it into configuration mode. Then, when you unplug
it, the USB firmware will do a complete
reboot and start from scratch. If that
doesn’t work, it indicates a physical
fault of some sort, probably with the
USB connector.
A competitor to the
Raspberry Pi Pico
Will the Ox64 module (siliconchip.
au/link/abhq) fit the VGA PicoMite
boards? Is there any chance this new
board will be compatible with the
Pico? The new boards should be very
good with lots of RAM and flash. It was
interesting to learn that the Pico only
has USB 1.1; I did not know that. (P.
B., Turramurra, NSW)
● It’s relatively uncommon for microcontrollers to have USB High Speed
support; many are limited to USB
12Mbps ‘Full Speed’, like the Raspberry Pi Pico.
Regarding your questions, Geoff
Graham responds: We haven’t tested
whether that board will fit. If you’re
lucky, it might. But there is no
chance it will be compatible as it uses
siliconchip.com.au
completely different technology.
There are so many different processors and boards being made that it
would be impossible to make the firmware run on all of them, so we pick
one or two of the most popular, then
make sure that the BASIC interpreter
works perfectly on them.
Inductors for AM-FM
DDS Signal Generator
I need help finding the Coilcraft
1206CS-121XJEC 120nH chip inductor specified for the May 2022 AM/FM
DDS Signal Generator (siliconchip.au/
Article/15306). It does not appear to
exist on either the Coilcraft or Tricomponents sites. (J. S., Avondale, Qld)
● You can find it on Coilcraft’s website at siliconchip.au/link/abhl
That part is not particularly critical;
many manufacturers have 120nH chip
inductors that could be used. According to the article, on page 45 under
“Component Selection”, the inductors
are available from element14. They
don’t have the XJEC version, but they
do have the XGLC and XJLC versions;
see siliconchip.au/link/abhm
The only differences are in tolerance (G = 2%, J = 5%) and termination (halogen-free vs not halogen-free),
which won’t matter.
Using solid-state
switching for an SMPS
I’ve just installed some LED lighting
in a room and am using Cree X-LEDs
driven by MEAN WELL ELG-75-C350B
switch mode power supplies (www.
farnell.com/datasheets/2830610.pdf).
It’s working fine, but I intend to turn
the power supplies on and off and
control the dimming using a microcontroller.
I’m looking for solid-state relays
(SSRs) to provide the on/off function;
it seems I need a solid-state relay that
can supply 50A for half a second or so,
then handle a minimum load current
of 400mA. From what I can ascertain
from product data sheets, low working
current SSRs can’t handle the inrush
current, and the SSRs that can handle the inrush current have too high
a minimum working current.
Is there a product or solution to turning these switch-mode power supplies
on and off via an output from a microcontroller? (T. B., Bumberrah, Vic)
● You should be able to switch the
supply on using one of the smaller
SSRs by including an NTC thermistor in series with the SSR switching
device. This introduces a resistance
that will limit the startup current. The
SL32 10015 NTC thermistors we sell in
our Online Shop should work:
siliconchip.au/Shop/7/2755
The minimum current requirement
could also be solved by including a
resistor across the load to increase
the minimum current, although that
would be wasteful. Alternatively,
include a relay contact that bypasses
the SSR (or use a relay to do the switching as they have negligible minimum
load requirement).
Finding Serviceman’s
Log column
Sometime this year, I read a Serviceman’s Log article that referred to a
device that would not start up. It was
a faulty flip-flop chip triggered by the
“Power” button. Now I cannot find it. I
have all the relevant back issues here;
Silicon
Chip
as PDFs on USB
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custom-made USB.
¯ Each USB is filled with a set of issues as PDFs – fully
searchable and with a separate index – you just need a
PDF viewer.
¯ 10% off your order (not including postage cost) if
you are currently subscribed to the magazine.
¯ Receive an extra discount If you already own digital
copies of the magazine (in the block you are ordering).
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 109
can someone point me to the particular article? I have tried scanning every
issue from 2022, so I think I might have
been browsing an older issue. (B. W.,
Gowrie, NSW)
● The Word Search feature on our
website is helpful for tracking this sort
of thing down. We tried Word Searches
on “flip flop”, “flip-flop” and “flipflop”
only in Serviceman columns. Only two
issues popped up since 2010: January
2017 and September 2018.
We think the one you’re referring
to is on pages 47 & 48 of the January
2017 issue. The word search page can
be found at: siliconchip.au/Articles/
WordSearch
Replacing the Altronics
R2000 motorised pot
I want to build the Projector Speed
Controller (April 2011; siliconchip.
au/Article/966), which specifies an
Altronics Cat R2000 Alpha dual
gang 20kΩ motorised potentiometer.
That part is no longer available from
Altronics. Do you have any recommendations for replacements? (K. T.,
New Zealand)
● Suitable motorised potentiometers
are available from eBay at reasonable
prices. The actual potentiometer and
its value are unimportant as that is
not used; just the motor mechanism
is used.
So any value, log or linear, single or
double gang Alpha or Alps branded
motorised potentiometer will be suitable. For example, see:
• siliconchip.au/link/abgh
• siliconchip.au/link/abgi
Big Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock saga
My 12/24 Big Digit Clock (March
2001; siliconchip.au/Article/4235)
performed exceptionally until I tried
to change the speed setting slightly.
After pressing switches 1 & 2 to come
back from adjustment mode to clock
display mode, the display went back
into adjustment mode after briefly displaying the clock.
I tracked this down to one of the
backup batteries having moved down
under one of the large display chip
pins and shorting, causing all four
large display decimal points to come
on and nothing else. I fixed this, and
the clock again performed flawlessly.
Then I saw that good-quality
110
Silicon Chip
double-sided PCBs were available
from Silicon Chip. My clock was built
using much lower-quality PCBs, so I
purchased both boards and proceeded
to rebuild the clock using most of the
components from the old PCBs with
some new batteries, IC sockets and
header pins, plus ICs 2 & 3 (they were
soldered to the board).
Since the rebuild, only LED displays
5 & 6 turn on, and they are not showing the correct segments for the numbers. I can select adjustment mode,
the “Variant” and “Standard” modes
and the 12hr/24hr modes. The seconds
advance (albeit incorrectly displayed),
and the “AD”, “U” and “S” are shown
in adjustment modes.
LED displays 1, 2, 3 & 4 do not
light up in either clock or adjustment
modes. Displays 5 and 6 have the same
segment errors as the numbers count.
I have replaced the eight BC328 transistors, IC1, IC2 and IC3, plus I spent
many hours checking for shorts, opens
and any other things I thought might
cause these problems.
This has been one of the best projects I’ve ever built, but I am now
totally exhausted and somewhat
disappointed with myself for trying
to improve my seventeen-year-old
clock that had been constructed on
old-style tan-coloured single-sided
PCB. As I have run out of ideas, can
I send you the clock to see if you can
figure out the problem(s)? (R. H., Dee
Why, NSW)
● We can’t troubleshoot every project
when constructors run into trouble,
but as it sounded like R. H. had tried
everything, we agreed to take a look.
Thankfully, we got it working again
after fixing a few faults.
The dimming did not work because
there was a 470W resistor in parallel
with the LDR instead of the required
470kW resistor. The incorrect segments
lighting was cured by reprogramming
the microcontroller.
The LED brightness was significantly different between the smaller
seconds displays and the larger displays, probably because the smaller
displays were much more efficient
than those used in the original project
from over 20 years ago. We altered the
segment drive resistors for the smaller
displays to 820W instead of the original
220W to get them to match.
The decimal points on the larger displays were also brighter, so we used
820W for them as well instead of the
Australia's electronics magazine
original 180W resistor. The larger displays used seem to use a single LED
for the decimal point rather than the
two in series used for the original displays in the 2001 prototype.
We also noted a slight difference in
brightness between display 3 and displays 1, 2 & 4. This is due to slightly
different LED efficiencies between
the displays. Not much can be done
about that except for finding a set of
four LED displays with better-matched
brightnesses.
If you want the displays to be
brighter overall, you can use a 15V
plugpack to power the clock.
Appliance timer and
soft starter wanted
These days households have numerous chargers that are typically plugged
in and left turned on. This has always
concerned me as the charger or device
under charge could develop a fault
and catch fire. A good solution to this
problem would be to use a timer that
automatically disconnects the mains
supply after a preset duration.
The timer would have many applications: power tool chargers; laptop,
tablet & mobile phone chargers; cordless vacuum cleaner chargers; soldering irons; or even Christmas lights.
The timer must have the ability to
set a range of different durations using
a rotary switch that is easily accessible. It should have a manual start button and an indicator to show that the
output is on. The timer should only
draw power from the mains while it
is active.
Another idea is to add a slave output
to the two soft starters for appliances
and power tools described in April and
July 2012, respectively. This could be
used for a shop vac that runs to collect
dust from the power tool in use. The
output for the shop vac should turn
on immediately when any current is
drawn by the power tool and remain
running for a few seconds after the
power tool is turned off.
Maybe the soft starter for power
tools design could be used as the basis
of a new project by adding a slave relay
to power a shop-vac. It is important to
consider the total power used by the
power tool and the shop vac. (J. L.,
Stafford, Qld)
● We have published similar projects
in the past. We are currently working
continued on page 112
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WARNING!
Silicon Chip magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects
should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC
voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of Silicon Chip magazine.
Devices or circuits described in Silicon Chip may be covered by patents. Silicon Chip disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. Silicon Chip also disclaims any liability for projects
which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
December 2022 111
on many projects, so we can’t start
on anything new, but we might consider updating these older projects at
some point.
We published a Universal Safety
Timer for Appliances (August 1990;
siliconchip.au/Article/6923), although
admittedly, that design could do with
an update. For example, it uses a Triac
as the switching device, so it would
not handle capacitive loads very well.
It also draws a little standby power.
We have also published numerous
soldering iron timer designs in Circuit
Notebook, including one in July 2020
(siliconchip.au/Article/14510) along
with March 2016, January 2007 and
October 1992.
Regarding the Soft Starter for Power
Tools with a switched slave output, we published two master/slave
mains power projects which could
have soft starting incorporated. They
are the PowerUp Master/Slave Power
Switch (July 2003; siliconchip.au/
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................27-30
Dave Thompson........................ 111
Digi-Key Electronics...................... 3
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Jaycar.......................IFC, 10-11, 39,
...............................53, 60-61, 74-75
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 111
LD Electronics........................... 111
LEDsales................................... 111
Microchip Technology.................. 5
Mouser Electronics..................OBC
Article/3905) and the Circuit Notebook
entry titled “Anto-sensing master/
slave power control“ (October 2010;
siliconchip.au/Article/321).
Given the age of these designs, it is
probably worthwhile for us to revisit
these ideas when we get a chance.
Wanted: comprehensive
portable audio test set
I have recently been helping my son
install subwoofers in his friends’ cars,
along with a couple of head units. They
pick up an amplifier, speakers and subwoofer pretty cheaply second-hand
from online marketplaces.
We’ve found that sometimes it
doesn’t work, so you need some way
of testing each segment, which has
proven cumbersome. Has there been a
project or two that would make a set of
test tools to work through the pieces?
Should we make one? For instance, the
following things need to be checked:
Head-unit: are the speaker outputs
working? Are the line-level outputs
working? Is the line-level output LF
only, or full-frequency? What voltage
level/volume is being produced?
Amplifier: what is the power supply voltage? Does it fluctuate under
load? Does the ignition key switch the
power, or is it a direct battery feed?
What is the output level and what is
the signal frequency range? It would be
helpful to be able to feed in a line-level
signal and provide a frequency sweep.
Control wire: did we find the right
one? When does it switch?
Speakers: an impedance tester
would be helpful, along with a way
to determine the phasing of dual-coil
drivers (they are relatively rare).
Ocean Controls............................. 9
SC USB Cable Tester................ 107
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB....... 109
Silicon Chip Shop.................88-89
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 47
Silicon Chip Test Tweezers..... 106
Silicon Chip 500W Amplifier..... 12
Silvertone...................................... 6
The Loudspeaker Kit.com............ 7
Tronixlabs.................................. 111
Wagner Electronics..................... 13
112
Silicon Chip
Errata and Next Issue
SC GPS Analog Clock................... 8
Cables: check for resistance and
continuity.
Some of these tests do fit under the
basic multimeter regime. Some might
be as simple as an audio cable from a
smartphone with the correct impedance/level. (L. C., Donvale, Vic)
● There is no easy way to make up a
universal test set for what you want.
However, you can use separate items
such as a multimeter, oscillator and
load resistances.
A multimeter can be sufficient for
most of the tests required, especially
if it is suitable for measuring AC voltages up to 1kHz or more.
A signal generator would be helpful
to provide a source for the amplifiers
under test. We’ve published a few useful portable oscillators:
• Shirt-pocket, Crystal-locked
Audio DDS Oscillator (September
2020; siliconchip.au/Article/14563)
• Roadies’ Test Oscillator (June
2020; siliconchip.au/Article/14466)
• Digital Audio Signal Generator
(March-May 2010; siliconchip.au/
Series/1)
Both the Shirt-pocket Oscillator and
Digital Audio Signal Generator would
be helpful for testing subwoofers as
they have adjustable frequencies.
Alternatively, a low-cost commercial
audio oscillator could be used.
A load for the amplifier can be made
using a heatsink and power resistors. element14 and RS Components
both sell high-power resistors. You
can connect them in series or parallel to achieve the required resistance
and power rating(s). element14 also
sells 100W-rated 4Ω & 8Ω chassis-
mount resistors (Cat Nos 2925455
and 2925462).
SC
WiFi DC Electronic Load, September & October 2022: (1) REG1 is shown
reversed on the main Load PCB silkscreening and in Fig.10. Fit it the other way
around, as shown in the photo on page 91 of the October 2022 issue.
(2) a design error on the main Load PCB means that the SDA line (pin 5 on
the CONTROL header, CON1) is likely to be shorted to GND due to a GND
via placed too close to that track. The via is just above and to the left of IC5
(labelled “DAC” on the PCB). Run a sharp knife between the GND fill and the
SDA track to clear the short, or drill out the top side of that via with a small
(eg, 2mm) drill bit.
(3) the sole 240W resistor on the main Load board should be 470W, to match
the source impedance of pin 1 of IC3 (1kW || 1kW). If built with the 240W
resistor, the resulting error will be minimal and likely cancelled out during
calibration.
(4) IC3 & IC4 were incorrectly listed as the INA180B4 type (gain = 200) in the
parts list. They must be the B1 type (gain = 20) for correct operation.
Next Issue: the January 2022 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday,
December 29th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia
between December 28th and January 13th.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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