This is only a preview of the May 2022 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 39 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "AM-FM DDS Signal Generator":
Items relevant to "500W Power Amplifier, Part 2":
Articles in this series:
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MAY 2022
ISSN 1030-2662
05
The VERY BEST DIY Projects!
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Contents
Vol.35, No.5
May 2022
19 All About Heat Pipes
Air Quality Sensors
page 70
Heat pipes, vapour chambers and thermosiphons are two-phase cooling
(or heating) devices that are used to efficiently transfer heat. They are
simple and inexpensive, commonly used on heatsinks in computers, greatly
enhancing their performance.
By Dr David Maddison
Thermal management
30 The History of Transistors, Pt3
In this final instalment, we take an in-depth look at how bipolar junction
transistors (BJTs) and both main types of field-effect transistors (JFETs
and Mosfets) work at a fundamental level. There’s also a small section
explaining the many different numbering schemes used for transistors.
By Ian Batty
Semiconductors
70 Air Quality Sensors
OUR OW
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PAGE 76
Many new air quality sensor modules have been appearing on the market,
some being surprisingly inexpensive. Here’s a quick rundown on what they
do and how they work. Sensor types covered in this article include MOS,
NDIR, PAS and PMC.
By Jim Rowe
Low-cost modules
43 AM-FM DDS Signal Generator
This Precision DDS Signal Generator has an output frequency of 100kHz to
75MHz in 1Hz steps (with ±0.1Hz accuracy after calibration). It runs from a
5V, 140mA supply and has low RF leakage.
By Charles Kosina
Test equipment project
61 500W Power Amplifier, Part 2
This month we cover the assembly instructions for the Amplifier module
PCB, which forms the largest single section of the project. We also provide
some tips on how to wind the output filter inductor.
By John Clarke
Audio project
76 Slot Machine
Real slot machines are an easy way to lose your money, so why not build
your own! This Slot Machine has colour graphics and sound, and while it
uses coins to play, you can get them back when you’re finished playing. The
project is based on the Micromite Plus BackPack.
By Gianni Palotti
Game project
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
Mailbag
85
Serviceman’s Log
97
Subscriptions
98
Circuit Notebook
1. Simple stereo microphone
2. A simple wireless charger
3. Li-ion battery reconditioner
4. Motion-triggered ESP32 WiFi camera
102
Vintage Radio
92 Oatley LED Lighting & Driver Kits
106
Online Shop
Oatley has four low-cost, high-brightness LED kits which can be driven
from the same general-purpose LED Driver via a 12V DC source. The LEDs
supplied with the kits include one of: two 12W floodlights; two 0.6m 8W
tubes; two 1.2m 18W tubes; or four 60W LED lamps.
By John Clarke
Lighting project
108
Ask Silicon Chip
111
Market Centre
112
Advertising Index
Calstan 559M2 superhet by Fred Lever
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke – B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe – B.A., B.Sc.
Bao Smith – B.Sc.
Tim Blythman – B.E., B.Sc.
Nicolas Hannekum – Dip.Elec.Tech.
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Allan Linton-Smith
Dave Thompson
David Maddison – B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Dr Hugo Holden – B.H.B, MB.ChB.,
FRANZCO
Ian Batty
Phil Prosser – B.Sc., B.E.(Elec.)
Cartoonist
Louis Decrevel
loueee.com
Former Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson – B.Bus., FAICD
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
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Harbord Rd, Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Postal address: PO Box 139,
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Phone: (02) 9939 3295.
ISSN: 1030-2662
Printing and Distribution:
Editorial Viewpoint
Most software is a product,
not a service
Software offered “as a service” provides benefits
almost entirely to the companies producing the software and not for their customers.
I’ve complained about constant updates in this column before. Updates are a selling point of ‘software as
a service’, but they rarely fix the bugs that are plaguing us or add valuable features. New features that are
actually useful (the minority) could easily be rolled into a one-time annual
or semi-annual update.
I like having the option to decide if it is worthwhile to pay a couple of
hundred dollars for the latest version of the software based on the claimed
improvements. Why would I want to spend several times more for a “subscription” which provides very little real value?
Anti-subscription rhetoric might seem odd from a magazine publisher. But
keep in mind that you are genuinely getting something new each month when
you subscribe to a monthly magazine, unlike most software where regular
updates are just fixing things that shouldn’t have been broken in the first place.
Take CorelDraw as an example. While we use it and mostly like it, CorelDraw suffers from terrible performance at times (a problem for at least a
decade), and it’s too crash-prone for my liking. Still, it’s pretty decent overall, and we want to continue using it.
They bring out one new version a year, with perhaps a mid-year update,
but they rarely add or improve anything that makes upgrading worthwhile.
Still, when we were offered an ‘upgrade protection plan’ (UPP) for around
$130 per user per year to stay on the latest version, we accepted it.
We recently received notification that they were ending that plan, forcing
anyone who wants to use the latest version onto a $50 per month subscription
($600 per year). That’s nearly five times what we were paying. While you can
still buy the software outright, it’s $1100 per copy with no apparent upgrade
discount, making that about nine times as expensive as the upgrade plan.
Even when we were paying for separate upgrades, we were not paying $600
per year. It isn’t worthwhile, given the marginal improvements with each
version, and the lack of significant performance improvements or bug fixes.
Does Corel realise that many people like us already have Adobe Creative
Suite (including Adobe Illustrator) that we could switch to essentially for
free? We don’t want to do that, but it’s an attractive option compared to
another expensive subscription.
While I don’t like paying $70-odd per month for Creative Suite, it includes
several very useful packages, including Illustrator, Photoshop and InDesign,
making it a far better value.
Corel could have increased what they were charging us for the upgrade
service, and we would probably have continued to pay it. But now we have
cancelled all our UPPs and will stick with the 2022 version. They will get
no more money from us; good job, Corel.
It comes down to what users will tolerate. If most users say “no more” like
we did and cancel, companies will get the message. But if enough users roll
over and pay the exorbitant subscription fees, they’ll see that this scheme
works and keep it up.
This leaves the market open for a competitor to come along and offer a
reasonable alternative without the subscription fee. Any such competitor
would be guaranteed a portion of the market; those who don’t like subscription models. Also, the open-source (and free) software Inkscape is looking
more attractive by the day...
by Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Vale Brendan J. Akhurst
I have been a reader of Silicon Chip (and Electronics Australia) for many decades now, but this is the first
time I’ve been motivated to write (and it isn’t even about
electronics...)
I have just read Nicholas Vinen’s “Editorial Viewpoint”
in the February 2022 issue and was very sad to learn of
the passing of Brendan Akhurst, your long time contributing cartoonist. I first met “BJ” when I was just a lad
and his father was my teacher at school. That was way
back in 1969 – it was clear that he was a very talented
artist even then.
I have followed his work ever since. His distinctive style
and gentle wit were always a highlight of your magazine
for me – particularly when he added illustrations to your
Serviceman’s Log section.
I was surprised to learn from your editorial that he had
also been a Police Officer, for I too had a career in Policing, but we never managed to cross paths again. Thanks
to your editorial, I have passed on the news to Brendan’s
former workmates in the NSW Police Force, and many
of them have remembered him fondly.
Please offer my sincerest condolences to his family and
thank them for sharing him with us – your readers – for
so many years.
Bob Stephenson, Canberra, ACT.
A collection of Brendan’s cartoons
It is sad to note the passing of your cartoonist, B. J.
Akhurst. Like you, I found his work highly amusing,
especially the visual puns. His work will be missed. It
was funny how he highlighted the fact that Dave Thompson is a New Zealander, with Kiwi birds and volcanoes
in the distance.
It would be nice if you could publish a “Best of Brendan” type of publication with some of his best efforts,
although I would understand if you considered this is
outside your brief as an electronics magazine.
Ray Chapman, Pakenham, Vic.
Comment: that is a good idea. We will certainly consider it.
More on possible clone CP210x chips
I read the letter on CP210x chips in Mailbag (April 2022)
with some amusement; my brother gave me a USB/serial
cable because it wouldn’t work on his Windows box, yet
it worked just fine on my MacBook, FreeBSD server, and
Linux laptop. He has another cable that works for him,
so I assume it has the “correct” chip.
There was a discussion on a private technical mailing list of which I am a member. The consensus was that
4
Silicon Chip
Microsoft did indeed hobble the driver, given that a previous version is known to work with these devices.
If it were a “driver bug”, as you postulate, surely it
would have been fixed by now in one of their tedious
“Patch Tuesday” updates. The story goes that the genuine chip has an undocumented feature (documentation
available only under NDA) that makes it work faster to
give it a competitive edge over clones.
Dave Horsfall, North Gosford, NSW.
Comment: this is just something to consider, but Microsoft
has left serious bugs (including security holes) unpatched
in Windows for long periods, see siliconchip.au/link/abdg
Colour Maximite wanted
Do any readers have a fully working Colour Maximite 2
(V1) they are willing to sell? The fully-assembled CMM2
I can purchase online is too expensive because they want
to be paid in US dollars.
Ric Mabury, Melville, WA.
Twisted rather than separate mains supply lines
Energex, the Queensland government corporation that
owns the electricity network in SE Queensland, replaced
the poles and wires in the eastern end of my street. They
installed new poles several weeks ago and then, on Thursday, they replaced the wires. The contractors replaced
the supply wires for more than twenty houses in just
over four hours.
The new poles and wires are totally different from the
old system with cross-bars having four individual conductors supported on insulators. Instead, there is a single
cable of four twisted wires, and the house supplies are
connected via tapping blocks of some sort. I have never
seen this system and when I looked around the neighbourhood, my street plus a side street are the only ones using it.
I do not know if it is common in other areas. Perhaps
electricity distribution methods might be another subject
for an article considering that this method appears to be
new technology.
George Ramsay, Holland Park. Qld.
Comment: we have seen that style of mains supply wires
before (also called aerial bundled conductors). Presumably,
it is quicker and easier to run because there is only one wire
bundle, and it has better aesthetics. They must be confident that the inter-wire insulation is not going to degrade.
Real-time clock option on Pico BackPack
I have built two of your Pico BackPacks (March 2022;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/15236) successfully according to the article. One useful minor amendment to add
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
to the list of commands in the third column on page 40
are these commands to configure the optional DS3231
real-time clock IC:
RTC SETTIME 2022, 03, 10, 09, 00, 00
(change numbers to the current date & time)
OPTION RTC AUTO ENABLE
Mike Sunners, Nairne, SA.
Why use a half-wave rectifier?
In the Driveway Gate Remote Control article by Dr Hugo
Holden (siliconchip.com.au/Article/15197), the circuit
diagram on pages 80 & 81 shows the main rectifier for the
motor as half-wave. This means that the transformer is
subjected to a net DC through the windings, which will
cause heavy saturation and exceptionally poor transformer utilisation.
This is easily demonstrated, and I cannot imagine why
a half-wave rectifier was specified. A single chassis-mount
bridge would improve the DC output and greatly reduce
the stress on the transformer and filter capacitor (which
is also subjected to much greater ripple current).
I realise that it’s only used intermittently, but half-wave
rectification is the worst possible option. Transformers
can tolerate severe overloads for a short time, but given
the modest cost of a ‘proper’ bridge rectifier, there’s no
reason not to have used one.
Rod Elliott, Thornleigh, NSW.
Response: If this was a clean-sheet design using all-new
components, you are correct that it would be sensible to
use a transformer only just large enough to power the
gate motor with a bridge rectifier. That would be more
cost-efficient and power-efficient, although that’s hardly
critical given its very intermittent usage.
But consider that this project is designed to be retrofitted to a pre-existing gate controller. In many cases,
the existing designs use a large power transformer with
half-wave rectification. Then there’s no real advantage to
changing that to full-wave rectification, as detailed in Dr
Hugo Holden’s reply to your comments:
Typical gate motors run at low average powers in the
region of 10-30W. The large power transformers used in
most gate controller boxes look good for at least 100W.
It doesn’t excessively stress a transformer to draw current on half-cycles if the power drawn is well below the
transformer’s rated power. And the gate is for intermittent
use; it is not moving 24/7.
When the gate is in motion, at a constant speed, the
current requirement is in the region of an amp or so
because the motor is only overcoming the friction of the
moving parts, not accelerating a mass or lifting a weight
against gravity.
If we assume that the motor supply is around 22V
(which it would be with the filter capacitor), motor power
is in the region of 20W, but only for the time the gate is
travelling. The whole thing has a very low duty in terms
of motor on-time.
Many low-power appliances use half-wave rectification. Car battery chargers with similar proportions are
often based on half-wave rectifiers. There is no risk to
the transformer if the power is below its maximum rating.
It would work with a full-wave rectifier, but since there
is no PWM controller to reduce the motor energy (as in
6
Silicon Chip
some commercial controllers), the gate speed would be
too high, at least for my gate.
The controller I built for my gate doesn’t have the filter capacitor, and the speed is about right with half-wave
power from the pre-existing transformer. It has been working like that for over 15 years.
(End of Dr Holden’s reply)
We agree that it would make sense for anyone who has
to purchase a transformer for the Remote Gate Controller to add a bridge rectifier between the transformer secondary and CON4. In this case, for a 24V rated motor, a
transformer with an 18V output under load plus a bridge
rectifier might give about the right power to the motor
(depending on the filter capacitor value).
A large 24V transformer will probably deliver too much
power to the motor if a bridge rectifier is used.
Software obsolescence is a problem
I read with interest your editorial in the February edition about devices that cease to work due to phone or PC
operating system upgrades.
I have had to throw out perfectly good (and expensive)
equipment because it would no longer work with my PC
or laptop computer. This includes a perfectly good laser
printer, an expensive video capture card and an even
more expensive WinRadio receiver, all due to the drivers not being updated to work with the latest versions of
Windows.
Also, I can no longer get data from my solar panels
because the inverter manufacturer has gone away.
I am now very wary of buying any equipment that
requires a PC, laptop, phone or an internet connection
to the manufacturer to operate.
Mike Hammer, Mordialloc, Vic.
Editorial on apps and obsolescence
I read with a mixture of amusement and horror your
editorial comments about the problem of devices that
need apps.
I have three internet radios that are now e-waste because
Qualcomm pulled the plug on their so-called Aggregate
website (Reciva, https://radios.reciva.com/index). All
internet radios need such a site for listing and accessing
the internet radio stations. I can now only receive the
very few stations I had stored on buttons in the radios.
I think this is, sadly, a case where it is difficult to follow
your understandable advice that “all hardware devices
should be able to be used in a standalone mode”.
In the meantime, I have had to purchase yet another
internet radio from a different company that uses a different aggregate page. Let’s hope that will be usable for
a few more years.
Christopher Ross, Tuebingen, Germany.
Response: one of the aspects that bothers us the most is
that it isn’t all that time-consuming or expensive to continue supporting many of these products. Website hosting
doesn’t cost much, and the amount of labour required to
maintain the site is minimal. It shows a lack of respect
for the customers who purchased their products.
Misleading battery capacity ratings
My son-in-law recently asked me to look at a compact
battery pack with USB outputs. He had bought it believing
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its 26,800mAh advertised capacity but found it could not
recharge his Macintosh laptop more than once. I recharged
it, and it took around 24,000mAh before the charge rate
dropped. I then easily got more than 20,000mAh into a
LED lamp.
The reason for his problem then dawned on me. The
‘battery’ must be a single lithium-ion cell, nominally
3.7V. In converting that to the 5V USB output, he would
not get more than 19,800mAh, even if the process was
100% efficient.
Then there is the laptop battery, which is described
as 10.8V and around 7,000mAh. To recharge that would
require around 12.8V, so even at 100% efficiency, no more
than 6,700mAh would be delivered.
It seems to me that a better solution would be to buy
a 12V battery booster with a USB output. So this was a
cautionary tale in understanding battery capacity in the
real world.
Graham P. Jackman, Melbourne, Vic.
Comment: giving battery mAh ratings is misleading as it
is not a unit of energy. Units of energy are either joules
(J), milliwatt-hours (mWh) or watt-hours (Wh).
Milliamp-hours or amp-hours is only a useful metric if
you want to know how much current a battery can deliver
over a certain amount of time. It is not helpful in comparing the capacities of batteries unless you know they
have the same voltages.
The Wh figure for a battery can be easily estimated
by multiplying the Ah capacity by the nominal battery
voltage. But note that this will only ever be an estimate
because the battery voltage won’t necessarily change linearly as it discharges.
My adventures into SMDs
When ordering the SMD Trainer kit from Silicon Chip,
the gentleman asked if there was anything else that I
wanted. When I said yes, he said, let me guess – the SMD
Tweezers. No! I was after a Micromite LCD BackPack.
After thinking this over for half an hour or so, I thought
I was being silly, so I rang back and put the Tweezers on
the same order.
Over the years, I have built many projects. Apart from
crystal sets, the first (in the late 1950s) was a five-band,
five-valve radio. When the first stereo record came to
town, I added a reel-to-reel tape recorder and turned it
into a stereo system. That’s the sort of thing I’m used to
building, so these new projects would be a game-changer
for me due to the small parts.
When the package arrived, I had to wait for some flux
gel to arrive. As I usually work in a dusty old shed with
a lathe, mill, welders, drills etc, I thought it wise to find
a cleaner spot, so I cleared an area in my home office. I
then had to make many trips back-and-forth for forgotten
things (part of getting old). Was the soldering iron too big?
A jeweller’s loupe OK?
I was pretty keen to get started, but disaster struck as I
opened the packet. Removing one part to try to determine
what it was, it flicked out of my fingers and disappeared
forever! I wonder what it was.
The next trick was figuring out how to open the small
packages. After fiddling for a long time and reading and
asking Mr Google, I emailed Silicon Chip. The reply was
to peel off the plastic layer, which I really hadn’t seen. I
8
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
was then able to extract one chip, but what was it? It had
eight pins, so it had to be the 7555.
I studied this for a long time to determine where the
number one pin was. There was no dot in the corner, and
no corner cut off. I woke in the middle of the night with
the answer; the whole of one side may have a chamfer.
This proved to be correct, but I found it was very subtle
and hard to see.
The next day, I decided to explore some more of the
mysterious mini packages and had no idea what they
were, so I decided to build the tweezers. Those worked
first time, so I think I scored my first Brownie point.
The next problem was to work out what size parts were
in which packet, so I opened them and soldered them in
the appropriate places. It wasn’t long before I had all the
parts above the line in, including the 1μF, which is the one
I lost and Silicon Chip kindly replaced. And it worked!
I was starting to find that one and a half to two hours
of concentration was enough, and as I had other projects
on the go, it was a few days before I tackled the next bit.
I next tackled the resistors and was quite pleased with
my progress until I got to the M1005/0402. I managed to
solder that one, but it was crooked. Still, I figured that it
was too small for anyone to notice.
The M0603/0201 was harder, though. I was still trying to get the plastic off and found it had dropped onto
the desk, and then it stuck to the iron, but eventually, it
made it into the board. I checked it with the tweezers and
it looked good! Another Brownie point!
After telling my friend how clever I was, I picked up
the Trainer board and brushed my fingers over it, and the
M0603 part fell off. 90 minutes later, I had managed to
lose all the other M0603 resistors, either by having them
stick to the iron and frying or losing them. Loss of all
Brownie points!
After spending some more hours, I managed to get a few
LEDs flashing, so maybe I scored one back. The problem
with the LEDs is that the green line is hard to see, especially when darkened on one end with heat from the iron.
My recommendations from all this are, if you are serious, look at plenty of YouTube videos, buy two or three
trainer kits or boards. Be prepared to destroy one, and
buy plenty of spare components to replace the ones that
get lost and destroyed. I found that Altronics have a list
in their catalog.
My conclusion is that I need a better iron, better lighting and a better magnifier (preferably a microscope with
a screen). Better eyesight and steadier hands would be
good too. I am certainly more confident with SMD parts;
M2012/0805 may be my limit for reliable results. What
a great project; thank you, Silicon Chip. I can now confidently tackle the Micromite BackPack.
David Lloyd, Clare, SA.
Comments: here at Silicon Chip, we were all initially hesitant to tackle SMD components as we feared working with
them would be difficult. We mostly found that all but the
smallest are manageable with a bit of practice. It helps
to start when you are younger and still have reasonable
eyesight. It also helps to work with smaller parts regularly
to maintain that important close-up vision.
You are correct that pin 1 can sometimes be hard to
determine. We prefer it when there is a pin 1 dot or divot,
but that isn’t always the case. And we too find that working
siliconchip.com.au
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ºC. Class B.
SKU: CMS-017J
Price: $142.95 ea + GST
400W ACM Brushless AC Servo Motor
Leadshine ACM604V60-T-2500 400W
brushless AC servo motor with 2500 line
encoder suitable to work with the ACS806
brush-less drive.
SKU: MOT-450
Price: $347.60 ea + GST
ACS806 Brushless Servo Motor Drive
Brushless servo motor driver for 50 to 400
W, AC brushless motors with encoders.
SKU: SMC-410
Price: $319.00 ea + GST
LCD Temperature and Humidity Sensor
The Pronem Midi from Emko Elektronik are
microprocessor based instruments that incorporate
high accurate and stable sensors that convert
ambient temperature and humidity to linear 4 to 20
mA. Dimensions are only 60x 126 x 35mm.
SKU: EES-020A
Price: $241.95 ea + GST
TxIsoloop-1 Single Loop Isolator
Loop isolators provide signal protection by
electrically isolating the 4-20mA input signal
from the 4-20mA output.
SKU: SIG-201
Price: $168.19 ea + GST
For Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9708 2390
oceancontrols.com.au
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 9
with small parts can be fatiguing, and it’s essential to take
breaks to avoid eye strain etc. Yes, M0603/0201 components are very difficult to hand-solder, but it can be done
with some effort.
It’s much better to destroy or lose parts in the Trainer
kit than something more expensive. Some SMD micros
can cost upwards of $20 each!
We prefer to test the LEDs with a multimeter set on
diode test mode rather than try to identify the anode and
cathode visually. When they light up in that test, the red
probe is on the anode and the black probe on the cathode.
Clever SMD holding tool
I see that you are including an increasing number of
surface-mount devices in your projects. I am also finding
that most of my personal projects and those for my small
design business are forced to use more SMD components
because they are all that is available.
Recently, the component shortage has forced my hand
even more into the SMD “corner”. With this came the
realisation that SMD components not only are smaller
but they can be mounted on either side of a PCB without
interfering with the other side. This allows a doubling of
component density and consequential reduction in overall size. My current project has over 120 SMDs.
While I have the usual through-hole tools, including a
magnifying lamp, I have added a hot air soldering station.
Initially, dealing with tiny components was challenging
enough without them getting blown away or flipped over
by the airflow! Holding SMD transistors, diodes, resistors
and capacitors accurately in place could be a problem. As
a result, I developed this simple “holding tool”.
It is made of 0.5mm steel plate with one edge folded by
90° for strength and springiness, and it articulates across
the full extent of a 100 x 80mm board. It is temporarily
secured to the PCB with an M3 threaded spacer with Nylon
washers to allow movement while minimising slippage.
Please refer to the attached photographs.
I am in my mid-60s and can say that SMD is not just
the domain of the youngsters! I even use QFN (quad, flat,
no-leads) packages, although I extend the pads beyond the
normal footprint of the chip to allow easier soldering and
debugging. A hot-air station is essential for those chips.
Peter Gee, Inglewood, WA.
Comment: what an ingenious device, and simple too! We
especially like how you use one of the existing mounting
10
Silicon Chip
holes to attach it to the board. Some of the advantages of
SMDs that you’ve noted, like being able to mount them
on both sides of the board, are part of the reason they are
so popular with manufacturers.
We don’t always put parts on both sides just because
it complicates assembly; we have some designs coming
up where we do, though.
Driving loudspeakers with a current source
It is my assertion that, for voice coil speakers and ribbon tweeters, the use of voltage feedback is incorrect as
this is affected by changes in impedance with frequency.
The best result can be obtained by feeding back a voltage
produced by sampling the current through the speaker and
feeding back voltage proportional to the current. Simply
a series resistor. It is also necessary to feed back the DC
level to prevent DC from being fed through the speakers.
You can find a simple design for this at www.inja.com.
au/wp/ or www.inja.com.au/diy.php
It can be proven that the magnetic force that applies
in these speakers is proportional to current, not voltage, as follows. Wind two coils on two small diameter
ceramic formers, one using Nichrome wire spaced to prevent shorted turns, the other with copper with the same
number of turns and the same spacing (Jaycar WW4040
and WW4013).
You will need an old compass. Connect the coils in
series across a low-voltage supply so that they repel opposite ends of the compass. Now place the coils on the same
side of the compass such that each coil is attempting to
repel the opposite ends of the compass. You will notice
that the forces are the same because the same current
passes through identical coils.
This shows that current, not voltage, determines the
magnetic force in a coil as almost all the voltage is across
the Nichrome coil with microvolts across the copper coil.
If voltage caused the force, the end facing the Nichrome
would have produced a much greater repelling force.
John Cornwall,
INJA
Comment: We are publishing this letter in the spirit of
open debate; we do not necessarily endorse its content.
Note that we have never argued against the notion that
magnetic field strength is related to the current through
a coil. That is basic theory, and we are pretty sure that
SC
most speaker designers would agree.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Sale ends May 31st.
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SALE
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S 9901J
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109
$
X 4201 5 Dioptre
X 4200 3 Dioptre
Ultra-bright long life
LED for fantastic clarity (plus
no need to change a globe EVER!). Let “gadget” be your
eyes. Identify those impossible
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without straining your eyes.
Great for collectors, model
makers, jewellers etc.
NEW!
99
SAVE
$20
$
Q 1073A
Premium Autoranging True
RMS Multimeter
Our first multimeter with wireless USB
charging in-built! No more changing
batteries. Includes top spec features such as
illuminated sockets, LED torch, desk stand,
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frequency meter and relative mode.
NEW!
NEW!
349
229
$
$
S 9445
4K video surveillance
anywhere you need it!
4K video or
30MP
still shot
resolution.
Great for monitoring in remote locations, temporary
CCTV monitoring etc. Runs off an internal battery so
its quick & easy to set up anywhere you need to keep
an eye on things. Weatherproof case with LCD screen.
Requires SD card, DA0330 64GB $17.95.
Throw
away your
old jumper
leads!
M 8195B
SAVE 24%
SAVE 24%
30
45
$
X 2312C 10W
69
$
X 2314C 20W
Suits 12V battery vehicles. 20000mAh rated
battery provides up to 2500A peak output
when cranking. Three USB ports are provided
for charging devices (like a giant battery
bank!). It also has a super bright 1W LED torch
in built. 192L x 90W x 36Dmm.
22
$
$
X 2318C 50W
C 9032A
Genlamp® LED Floodlights
i12 Bluetooth® Earbuds
Great for added security around the house, back
shed or garage. Fitted with 240V 3 pin mains plug.
Fully approved. Natural white. Rust free stainless
steel brackets and hardware. IP65 rated.
These affordable wireless Bluetooth
5.0 earbuds offer great sound for less!
2-3 hour listening time per charge.
Compatible with iOS & Android devices.
Bargain
Walkie Talkie
Package
X 0669
Amazing value for
money, these walkie
talkies offer a great
way to keep in
touch on camping
trips, hiking or offroad adventures!
16 channels with
charging dock.
Range up to 5km.
Recharge your phone
ANYWHERE
Lithium-Ion Car Jump Starter
SAVE 25%
SAVE 23%
A do-it-all USB power delivery
charger (18W), Qi wireless
charger and portable battery
bank (6700mAh) for phones and
tablets for use wherever you travel.
Includes Australian, US, UK and
European adaptors, plus carry
case. *Phone for illustration purposes.
19.95
$
Triple USB
Car Charger
SAVE $29
50
$
M 8628B
Keep everything charged
up in the car with this handy
7.2A triple USB charger. Stylish
carbon fibre look finish.
rs!
Handy gadget for travelle
SAVE $39
A 0319*
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
50
$
Trim, crimp & screw it.
T 1566A
T 1528A
T 1552A
SAVE 15%
SAVE 24%
SAVE $25
90
33
$
Switch to Pass Thru RJ45 modular
crimps and save time! Crimps and cuts
in one ratchet action and works with
industry standard connectors.
All
metal with
ratchet
action
Combines a ratchet wire stripper, cutting
blade & kwik crimper (red, blue and yellow
sheaths). Suits 10-24 AWG cable.
Crimps all standard “Kwik” connectors
such as ring terminals, bullets and spades.
Easy to identify red, blue, yellow jaws.
SAVE 18%
20
20
60
$
Rust free
stainless
steel!
T 2741
T 2735
T 2825A
Precision
Long Nose Pliers
Electronics “Nipper”
Side Cutters
Stainless Steel
Long Nose Pliers
Super sharp with comfy handles for cutting component
legs, wiring etc. 130mm
Rust Resistant - great for the
tackle box or use in moisture
prone environments. 125mm.
30
17
$
T 2852
These heavy duty cutters will cut flexible copper or aluminium cable up
70mm2 (00AWG). 235mm length.
27
SAVE 10%
25
$
T 1489
12
$
19.95
$
T 2350
4pc Pick &
Scribe Set
$
Strips cable of insulation at the flick
of the wrist. Our best selling cable
stripper of all time!
A must have for any electronics enthusiast. Includes: • Side cutters. • Flat long needle nose
pliers. • Flat bent needle nose pliers. • Long
nose pliers/cutters. • Bull nose pliers/cutters
SAVE 23%
Nibbles
holes in
metal and
plastic
T 2758A
5pc Plier & Cutter Set
Tough HRC 72° tungsten carbide
construction for 5 times the life of
standard side cutters. 130mm.
SAVE 20%
Ultra Fast Wire Stripper
29.95
$
Tungsten Carbide Side Cutters
T 1522
Cut Large
Core Cables
Like Butter!
BARGAIN!
Stay
sharp
longer!
SAVE 25%
Super
easy to
use!
The complete suite of tools for popular multipole DC connectors by Deutsch. Suits size 12, 16 and 20 DT series
pins. Included in the kit are a terminal housing release
tool, pin removal tool and screwdriver.
SAVE 19% T 2749
$
$
$
Deutsch Connector Crimping Kit
Spade, Ring & Lug Crimper
2 for
SAVE 18%
Includes
carry case!
Wire Stripper & Kwik Crimper
SAVE 25%
Premium quality 140mm precision pliers with jaw serrations
for general electronics use.
$
Toolbox
space
saver!
RJ45 Pass Thru Crimper
25
119
$
Superb
build
quality!
$
SAVE $30
35
$
SAVE 35%
T 2196
T 2355
The Handy Nibbler Tool
Suitable for cutting odd shaped holes
in steel, plastic and aluminium.
Steel: 1mm. Aluminium: 1.6mm.
T 1489
High quality
tool kit
featuring
straight,
angled, curved
and hook tips.
13 Piece Precision Knife Set
Includes aluminium handle with 13 blades to suit
different cutting jobs. Includes plastic carry case.
SAVE 20%
Great for
repairing
modern
devices!
50
$
T 2183
SAVE 22%
T 2168A
Features
1/4” and
4mm drive
handles
27
$
Jakemy® 106pc Precision Driver Set
A workshop
essential at a
great price!
An affordable do-it-all servicing set with 92 4mm chrome vanadium bits, flexible
extension bar, tweezers & magnetiser ring. For repairing phones, laptops & more!
48pc Compact
Servicing Kit
T 2198B
11 Piece Screwdriver Set
Quality set of flat blade and phillips screwdrivers for
general repairs. Chrome vanadium.
An aluminium driver handle
with 48 4mm bits to open
and repair all types of
devices. Housed in an ultra
slimline aluminium casing.
69pc Dual Ratchet Driver Kit
SAVE 15%
T 2185A
29
$
Superb quality ratchet driver with a wide selection of bits for
most electronic jobs. Includes both a 1/4” adjustable angle
(<90°) ratchet handle and a smaller 4mm ratchet handle.
Great for the home handyman or enthusiast.
Shop with us on eBay | www.ebay.com.au/str/altronicsaustralia
Tool up your work space
for less.
Not just for
desoldering works great as a
regular hot air gun!
125
SAVE $100
275
$
Features 3
preset channels
for quick temp
selection.
$
T 2460A
T 2040
T 1289
SAVE $40
NEW!
119
$
SMD Hot Air
Re-Work
Desoldering Gun
Micron® 68W Compact Soldering Station
Provides 300W of hot air for quick and
easy desolder and re-work of surface mount
boards. 200-500°C adjustable. Includes desk
stand - plus narrow, medium and wide nozzles
for different tasks.
This latest design benchtop soldering iron offers convenience and
plenty of power for the enthusiast. Offers precise dial temperature
control with temperature lock. In-built sleeper stand shuts down the
unit when not in use saving on power costs. Includes a fine 1.2mm
chisel tip, solder reel holder and tip sponge.
Micron® Touchscreen Soldering Station
A sturdy 100W benchtop soldering station featuring an all aluminium case
and 2.8” touchscreen for quick temperature and preset selection. 100500°C temp range with slimline handle featuring burn resistant cable.
T 2488
SAVE $22
Iroda®
3 Nozzle Blow
Torch Kit
88
$
T 2098
300W Adjustable Solder Pot
Tin multiple stranded hookup wires or remove multipin connectors from boards quickly and easily. Takes
up to 1350g of solder. Stable temperature control:
200-480°C. Suitable for lead free and leaded work.
500g leaded solder bar $43.65 (T 1139A). 300W.
Got Gas?
15
$
Ideal for trades requiring both
precision brazing and high
output wide spread flame jobs.
Supplied in handy carry case
with stable safety stand. 120
mins run time at mid setting.
Includes carry case.
1500W
Heat Gun
Perfect for
heatshrink - shrinks
evenly without
burning. Shifts
paint, solvents from
surfaces, makes
plastics malleable,
etc. 450L/min
airflow.
SAVE 30%
SAVE $10
49
$
T 2110
Stock up on top notch scrubbed and triple
filtered butane for reliable use in gas tools.
The
pocket
rocket
torch!
Trade
quality!
Iroda® Mini Jet
Blowtorch
SAVE $76
Produces a powerful jet like flame
- up to 1300°C! Refillable design is
great for hobbyists.
149
$
T 2457
3 for $24
VE!
STOCK UP AND SALY.
ON
TH
ON
M
THIS
250ml can. T 2451. Normally $9.35ea
Fume Extractor
& Fan
Whisk away solder/3D
print fumes from your
workspace! Also works as
a fan. Adjustable speed.
T 1296
SAVE 24%
60
$
SAVE 18%
SAVE 22%
T 1302A
Dual Solder
Reel Holder
19
$
Heavy weight base with solder
guides. All metal construction.
*Solder not included.
SAVE 15%
Never lose a
tiny screw again!
29
$
T 4015A
A 35x26cm heat resistant silicon
work mat, plus a 25x20cm magnetic
mat to keep screws and materials
organised while you work.
69
$
T 2120
Cut, Polish, Grind, Sand & Carve.
Perfect for odd jobs and hobbies. Powerful 130W motor
with variable speed between 8000 and 33000 RPM.
Included is a 172pc accessory kit of grinding wheels,
drills, cutters, sanding discs, polishing pads and more.
SAVE 23%
15
$
T 1460A
Handy Desktop
Holder
The hobbyists dream - just
like having an extra hand to
get things done! Great for
gluing, painting or soldering.
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
Top deals on tech accessories.
SAVE
$50
Desk
Monitor
Mount
SAVE 20%
50
65
$
H 8165A 32” to 70”
Suits TVs
up to 84”
SAVE 22%
$
225
$
H 8126B
Cantilever Arm
TV Bracket
H 8166A 60” to 100”
Ultra Slim TV Wall Brackets
Silky smooth cantilever adjustment, stays just
where you want it to. It even has 14° of tilt
adjustment! Engineered for flat screens up to 84”
using 600 x 400mm VESA. Max weight, 45kg.
Great value and build quality from one of the worlds
leading AV mount suppliers. Two models covering TV
sizes from 32” to 100”. Dual pull safety lock system.
59.95
Ideal for
cars,
caravans &
boats!
$
H 8195
Locking Swing
Arm TV Bracket
Regain precious
desk space!
• Easy adjust arms
• Suits monitors
up to 27” • Desk
clamp installation.
• Max 8kg.
SAVE $44
Ideal for caravans - retaining pin keeps
your TV locked against the wall when
on the move. Suits 26” to 42” TVs.
With pan and tilt adjustment. 15kg max.
55
$
H 8220A
SAVE $40
159
$
NEW!
Recharge
anywhere!
69.95
$
D 2363A
Perfect for
the family
‘hot desk’
SAVE 24%
75
$
D 2358B
USB C Network Hub
13 In 1 4K USB C Laptop Docking Station
A handy laptop docking station hub for USB C type equipped laptops. Fitted with 3 x USB
3.0 ports, USB C 3.0 data port, SD & Micro SD card slot, mic & headphone jacks, gigabit
wired ethernet port and VGA, HDMI & DisplayPort. Maximum 4K <at> 30Hz.
One box for all your
entertainment.
D 2816 + A 0981
Provides HDMI (4K <at> 30Hz)
connection, gigabit wired ethernet, plus
three USB 3.0 ports, SD/Micro SD
card slot and 60W power pass through
- from a single USB C connection!
SAVE $43.95
125
SAVE 24%
60
$
D 2359A
Provides HDMI (4K <at> 30Hz)
connection, plus dual USB 3.0 ports,
SD/Micro SD card slot and 60W
power pass through - all from a single
USB C connection!
SAVE 29%
SAVE $36
49
79
$
$
D 2322
SAVE $50
79
An ultra-slim desk mount 10W wireless fast
charger. Requires 60mmØ hole. Includes
power supply & USB cable.
Fits into a standard 60mm desk hole cutout to provide appliance power. Instant
pop up design. 3 outlets plus dual USB
port charging. Great for any work space.
Handy air mouse for presentations. In-built laser
pointer. Plug & play, no
drivers required for Mac or
Windows. Includes battery.
With the latest QC 3.0 charging & 18W USB-C PD output,
this enormous 20,000mAh
power bank will keep your
devices charged anywhere.
With
laser
pointer!
SAVE 35%
D 4238
8K DisplayPort
Switch
$
or 2 for $120
Charges
a laptop, a
phone & tablet
at the same
time!
Handy pop-up power board
Presentations
made simple!
Jumbo QC3.0/USB C
Power Bank
22
$
D 2323
P 8146
Build wireless charging
into your desk
D 0511B
Wireless Magnetic
Power Bank
Iphone 12 for illustration purposes.
USB C Expansion Hub
FREE!
63
$
D 0515A*
Charge your phone on the go
with this MagSafe compatible
wireless charging battery bank.
10,000mAh. 20W USB C PD
in/out. *Shown with compatible
$
Make your TV even Smarter!
Stream direct to your TV from
streaming services, plus play
games and connect to local
media on your home network.
Capable of streaming stunning
4K videos <at> 60fps! 4GB ram
with 32GB on board storage.
Requires 2A USB power supply.
Includes FREE A 0981
trackpad/keyboard valued
at $29.95.
SAVE 20%
Switch between two PC
sources to DisplayPort
monitors. Supports 4K <at>
120Hz or 8K <at> 30Hz.
39.95
$
55
$
A 3091
Multi Voltage PoE+
Splitter
Provides 5, 9 or 12V output
over ethernet for PoE
compatible devices such as IP
cameras, access points etc.
Desk Mount Laptop Charger
A 96W USB type C charger, plus dual QC
3.0 USB charging in the one compact
near flush mount unit. 60mmØ mounting
hole. Includes power supply.
SAVE $19
D 4226A
Shop with us on eBay | www.ebay.com.au/str/altronicsaustralia
Get started in 3D Printing.
Need help with
3D printing?
SAVE $70
399
$
Ask our friendly staff in
store for guidance on how
to start, recommended
software, tips & tricks!
K 8600
30 x 30 x 40cm
build volume for
larger prints
The worlds
best selling 3D
printer!
Over 800,000 sold
worldwide.
SAVE $351
K 8606
Print bigger with the Creality® CR-10 V2 3D Printer
Creality® ‘Ender 3’ 3D Printer
The CR-10 offers reliable large volume printing up to 30Wx30Dx40Hcm!
The dual port fan cooled hot end offers reliable and precise print quality whilst the triangular design provides
excellent stability. Heated print bed reduces warping, ensuring great prints every time. This printer is great for
anyone who needs to print larger designs such as cosplay parts, architectural models & replacement parts.
Creality’s top selling 3D printer is here! The Ender 3 is a compact 3D
printer offering excellent print quality with a build volume of 22Wx22Dx25Hcm
and is compatible with ABS, PLA and TPU filaments. Supplied mostly
assembled and can be up and running within an hour.
Creality® Premium
PLA Filament
ABS Filament
We’re now stocking Creality’s premium 1.75mm
PLA designed for use in many brands of 3D
printer on the market. Creality have focused on
making top quality non toxic filaments with a
tolerance of just 0.02mm. Each filament is 100%
bubble free and offers excellent tensile strength
& fluidity. This all adds up to more reliable prints
and less waste! 1kg rolls.
SAVE $10
Made from high quality
materials for less brittle
filament breakages.
39
$
n K 8387A Silver
n K 8388A Gold
n K 8389A Pink
n K 8391A Orange
n K 8392A Green
n K 8393A Yellow
n K 8394A Purple
n K 8395A Blue
n K 8396A Red
n K 8397A Black
n K 8398A Grey
n K 8399A White
High
Temperature
Polyimide
Tape
SAVE 15%
Rare Earth Magnets
Quality rare earth magnets. Great for
building into 3D print designs.
Model
Type
2 FOR
T 1464
25x5mm Countersunk
T 1465
25 x 5mm Solid
T 1466
10 x 3mm 4 pack
T 1467
5 x 6mm 8 pack
$18
$16
$14
$15
799
$
Great for 3D printing
and other electronics
applications. Leaves
no residue in high
temperature masking
applications.
Model
Width
NOW
T 2971A
8mm
T 2972A
12mm
$9
$12
$13.50
$15
$17
$25
T 2973A
16mm
T 2974A
19mm
T 2975A
24mm
T 2976A
36mm
NEW!
Quality ABS filament for those
requiring added durability.
1kg rolls.
SAVE $9.95
n K 8383A White
$
n K 8384A Black
35
Fluoro Filament
A translucent fluoro yellow
coloured PLA for brightly
coloured prints! 1kg roll.
SAVE $10
47
$
K 8390A
T 2370
18
$
.50
Deburring Hand Tool
Remove rough edges and neaten up prints
with this comfort grip external chamfer tool.
.75
SAVE 12%
15
$
5 Piece Needle File Set
T 2352
Accurate
Digital
Vernier
Calipers
Precision measuring
with ease! 150mm
length, suitable for
measuring internal, external and
depth dimensions.
0.01mm, 0.0005”
and 1/128th”
display.
Fine edge files for smoothing 3D prints.
Shop with us on eBay | www.ebay.com.au/str/altronicsaustralia
SAVE 24%
44
$
T 2247A
Stay powered up, anywhere!
Power mains appliances from your car or auxiliary battery.
155
$
Pure Sine Wave
M 8060 300W
54.95
$
M 8050 150W
Modified Sine Wave
79
$
289
$
M 8051 300W
99
M 8062 600W
$
429
$
M 8054 600W
209
M 8064 1000W
$
625
$
M 8056 1000W
299
M 8065 1500W
Pure Sine Wave BlackMax Inverter - Ultimate in portable power.
Housed in a rugged aluminium extrusion, this new range delivers robust reliability and
unwavering performance - even under severe operating conditions. For peace of mind all
models have been certified to Australian Standard AS/NZS 4763.2011. Ideal for tricky loads,
such as laptops, TVs & game consoles. Perfect for 4WDs, campers, caravans & trade vans.
219
$
Going bush? Have power
wherever you go on
your next 4WD/camping
adventure. Includes 130W
panel, solar regulator,
battery connection cables
and canvas carry case.
3 stage solar charger.
Adjustable stand for
best sun placement.
664x631x75mm (folded).
N 2087 20A
Powerhouse® Solar
DC-DC Battery Chargers
345
$
N 2089 40A
This dual input design connects to a solar panel and your cars alternator (12
or 24V) to provide charging for secondary batteries such as those used in
campers, caravans and trades service vans/trailers. Suitable for Lead Acid,
AGM and Lithium Fe PO4 batteries.
Powerhouse®
Portable Power
Battery Box
Fits a standard 90-120Ah
automotive battery for powering
appliances at your camp site
- a totally self contained power
unit! Fitted with 2.4A USB charger, dual Anderson sockets,
volt meter, car acc. socket &
battery terminals, plus 2x50A
fuses for added safety.
SAVE $30
SAVE $40
99
$
T 5098
.95
SAVE $110
139
$
An all round portable
charging device - plus vehicle
jump starter! Not just for car
battery emergencies, this high
capacity battery bank also
wirelessly charges your phone,
powers laptops etc. Jumpstarts
most 4-6 cyl vehicles.
M 8193
& USB
Keeps devices charged with wireless
SAVE 24%
P 0698
P 0697
30
36.95
$
$
Handy Power Panels For Cars & Caravans
These panels can be easily surface mounted to custom panels
to provide power to your devices & portable appliances. 15A DC
breaker. P 0697: 50x130x70mm. P 0698: 50x187x70mm.
209
$
N 1130F
Includes canvas carry case.
car battery topped up!
Heading away? Keep the
49
$
Power your camping
fridge without risk of
draining your battery!
Portable Battery
Bank Jump Starter
Fitted with
secure lid clips
& colourful LED
voltmeter
M 8057 1500W
The same top notch quality and safety features as our popular Black Max inverter
series (left), with a modified sine wave design to bring 240V power to any vehicle at a fantastic
price. Models up to 600W have USB and auxiliary 3A 12V DC output for powering devices. 240V
outlet runs most simple appliances such as power tools, pumps, lights, fans and heater elements.
130W Remote
Power Folding
Solar Panel
NEW!
$
The affordable portable power solution for any vehicle.
Top up your batteries with solar power.
N 0700A
This compact 5W solar panel is designed for keeping your vehicle batteries topped up when parked - ideal for when you head off on summer
holidays. Suits permanent outdoor install.
charging!
Colourful
Anderson
Style Plugs
More colours in the
popular SB50 size
reversible plugs.
50A rated. Includes
crimps.
P 7761 Red
P 7762 Green
P 7763 Blue
P 7764 Black
P 7765 Yellow
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
6
$ .95
Tinker, Design & Build.
Arduino UNO &
Ethernet Board
SAVE $31
Control
more with
2 shields!
Connect your Arduino
design to the internetof-things with this handy
W5500 ethernet board
with atmega328p
SAVE $23
on board. Fully UNO
compatible with USB
$
download & micro SD
slot.
Z 6467
79
$
Z 6310
45
SAVE $30
TOP
VALUE!
109
$
MK2 Arduino MegaBox Kit by Altronics.
K 9670A
ATDev Shield for
ATTiny Kit
A powerful and versatile
programming and breakout
shield for ATtiny. Combine
with a UNO for instant programmer and debugging.
Arduino Tinker Kit
Includes a huge array of parts for learning with the Arduino UNO (board included). Also includes proto-shield,
LED matrix, 7 segment displays, two breadboards,
stepper motor, servo, IR remote, connection leads and
a variety of parts, LEDs, buttons and sensors.
Developed in house by Altronics, this MegaBox has space for two shields,
plus five 2A 5V relay outputs and eight opto isolated outputs. All UNO/
Mega pins are broken out to header sockets for easy connection to other
breakouts. A small 160 hole prototyping area is included for connecting to
other sensors. *Arduino board & shields not included.
SAVE 20%
K 9815
18
$
SAVE
48%
SAVE 34%
SAVE 35%
5
$ ea
Colourful Arcade
Gaming Switches
Jumbo arcade machine momentary
switches with 12V illumination and
customisable button plate.
25mmØ hole.
S 0910 Red
S 0911 Green
S 0912 Blue
S 0913 Yellow
S 0914 White
S 1148A
S 1147
15
$
Heavy Duty
Arcade Joystick
USB Interface
For Joystick & Buttons
NEW!
15
$
NEW!
14
19.95
.95
$
$
K 9642
Great for retro gaming projects
or for direction control in serious
projects. Adjustable plate allows
2, 4 or 8 way control. 95x59mm
mounting plate.
A handy interface board for a
joystick and up to 12 arcade
buttons. Includes pre-terminated
cables.
Must
have for
Arduino
builders!
Z 0003
Jumper Header Kit
LED Assortment Pack
Single row header connectors.
Includes male & female pin
headers, plus 2.54mm housings.
3mm and 5mm LEDs in green,
red, blue, yellow and white.
300pcs.
Z 6387
SAVE 22%
SAVE 26%
50
$
‘Due’ Development Board
Z 6244
The first Arduino board based on a 32 bit ARM core microcontroller for added power. Ideal for projects that need higher
speed processing. 54 digital in/outs, 12 analog inputs & 4
UARTs. 3.3V shield/sensor compatible.
SAVE 22%
$
per 1m
ESP32 Camera Board
An ultra compact ESP32 based module
with on-board camera, Bluetooth BLE
& 802.11n Wi-Fi. Ideal for building
your own IoT smart device projects.
5V input.
Create
Amazing LED
Light Effects!
5050 size
LEDs for
superior light
output!
23
25
$
X 3222A
1m length of
addressable RGB 5050
LED strip - this means
you can program
the colour of every
individual LED using
an Arduino/Raspberry
Pi. 60 LEDs per m.
WS2812B chip on
board. 10mm width,
adhesive backed. 5V,
3.6A/m (max).
Z 6442
LN298
Dual Motor Module
A complete and self-contained WiFi
network solution that can operate
independently or as a slave on
other host MCUs. 3.3V input.
designed to drive inductive
loads, such as relays,
solenoids, DC and stepping
motors. 2 channels. 5V input.
26
$
14
12
$
ESP8266EX
Mini Wi-Fi Module
P 1018A 350pc
$
22
$
Z 6441
SAVE
15%
P 1014A 140pc
Prototyping Wire Packs
Handy packs of pre cut and trimmed
solid core wire for breadboarding your
next design!
10
$
SAVE 30%
SAVE 20%
SAVE 24%
3 Axis
Accelerometer
Z 6321
Low power, high resolution
ADXL345 accelerometer for
tilt and movement sensing
projects. 3-5V input.
Breadboards
for big designs!
Huge breadboards
with aluminium bases
for those designs
that are beyond the
scope of your average
breadboard! Easy power
connection via binding
posts.
SAVE 28%
35
$
P 1012A
1660 Hole
SAVE 26%
40
$
P 1015A
2309 Hole
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
Must
have for the
electronics
maker!
Make your home smarter.
Wi-Fi RGB Strip
Lighting Kit
X 3227*
Answer the door
when you’re not
home!
SAVE $15
60
This kit includes 5m of
RGB strip lighting, power
supply, controller unit and
IR remote control allowing
you to create colourful
lighting effects around your
home. Music sensor input
allows the lighting to trigger
to music being played in
the room. Works with Alexa
and Google Assistant.
60 LEDs per metre.
$
SAVE $50
Music sensor
can trigger
lights to the
beat!
SAVE 24%
99
Wi-Fi Video Doorbell with
Tuya smartphone app control
and 2 way audio. This stylish
doorbell connects to your wi-fi
and notifies your mobile phone
when a person arrives at your
doorstep. Great for telling the
postie where to put packages.
• Security camera mode
• Motion detect notification
• Includes power supply and
indoor doorbell ringer unit.
$
2 For
30
$
S 9455A
P 8149
HOT
PRICE!
Automate heaters & lamps!
Switch any connected appliance on or off
remotely from anywhere in the world. Set
schedules, monitor and control via the Tuya
Android/iOS app. Maximum 10A 2400W.
Works with Google Home and Alexa
What is Tuya® Smart Home?
Tuya is a common application for thousands of products from the worlds leading Smart Home suppliers. It provides a single point
of control for home security, lighting and appliance power allowing you to control everything you need from a the one smartphone
app. The Tuya IoT platform powers over 250,000 home automation products across the globe!
All of our Tuya compatible cameras below provide 1080p HD with audio and can be easily located anywhere!
Camera measures
just 10mm across
SAVE $20
69
S 9846
Wi-Fi HD Camera Clock
• Internal battery - set it up anywhere! • Day/night with IR
• USB rechargeable • 100 mins
motion activated recording time.
• Ultra compact module can be built into
custom enclosures • Completely wireless - set
it up anywhere! • USB rechargeable • 100
mins motion activated recording time.
Cable Free Wi-Fi
Surveillance
This handy 1080p camera
can be installed just about
anywhere indoors or out
and has an in-built battery
so you don’t need to run
any cables! Offers 4-6
months of motion detect
recording. When it’s flat,
just take it off the wall &
recharge via USB. Suits
sheltered outdoor use.
S 9850
S 9844
Wi-Fi Camera Module
Also
includes
ball joint
bracket.
SAVE $40
159
$
S 9843B
• Real alarm clock function • Two-way audio
(mic & speaker) • Motion detect recording •
USB or battery powered (S 4736 x 2 $18.50ea)
*Note: We encourage this item be used responsibly for legitimate
CCTV use.
Outdoor Pan
& Tilt Wi-Fi Camera
S 9020
SAVE $44
Provides extra coverage to your
outdoor spaces with motorised
pan (355°) and tilt (100°).
Auto-tracks moving objects
within the frame. Constructed
from UV stabilised plastic with
weatherproof rating to IP66.
2-way audio with mic and
speaker. 30m IR night time
coverage. Requires 5V 2A USB
power supply.
95
$
Sale Ends May 31st 2022
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Outdoor Solar Powered Camera
• IP66 rated for outdoor use • Two-way audio
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Indoor Pan
& Tilt Wi-Fi
Camera
Makes a great baby or
pet monitor, this camera
features intelligent tracking of moving objects
within the frame. 2-way
audio with mic and
speaker. 5m IR night
time coverage. Requires
5V 1A USB power
supply.
Western Australia
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
$
$
$
Mini Wi-Fi Cube Camera
159
139
69
$
SAVE $40 S 9845A
SAVE $30
SAVE $20
HOT
PRICE!
SAVE $10
69
$
S 9017A
Victoria
08 9428 2188
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Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2022. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0091
Find a local reseller at: altronics.com.au/storelocations/dealers/
Heat pipes,
vapour chambers
and thermosiphons
Heat pipes, vapour chambers and thermosiphons are “two-phase” cooling
(or heating) devices that transfer heat from one place to another very
efficiently. They are simple and inexpensive, with no moving parts and do
not require external power. Yet they conduct heat so much better than metals
like aluminium or copper that they can be considered ‘heat superconductors’.
T
he
t e r m i n o lo g y
regarding these devices
is somewhat confusing.
According to some definitions, vapour
chambers and thermosiphons are simply variations of the standard heat
pipe. That is logical since they all operate on the same principle.
For clarity, we will refer to the most
common type of heat pipe as a constant conductance heat pipe (CCHP),
to distinguish it from the other types
of heat pipe such as the thermosiphon
and vapour chamber.
These devices all operate on similar principles, with some differences
as follows:
• CCHPs can operate in any orientation, transferring heat from one
place to another and are generally in
the form of a cylindrical pipe.
• Thermosiphons are similar to
CCHPs but operate with the assistance
of gravity, and thus can only work correctly in a particular orientation.
• Vapour chambers distribute heat
evenly over an area instead of transferring heat from one location to another.
In their modern form, CCHPs were
initially developed for space applications but are now widely used in
many areas, especially electronics. As
computer chip component density and
speed becomes higher and higher, the
amount of heat generated becomes difficult to remove, even with huge aircooled or liquid-cooled solid copper
or aluminium heat sinks.
Consider that an integrated circuit
like the Nvidia GA102, with over 28.3
billion transistors onboard, has an area
of just 628mm2 – about the size of a
postage stamp – yet dissipates up to
450W in operation!
Traditional heatsinks have no hope
of removing that much heat without the silicon junction temperature
greatly exceeding 100°C, therefore
another solution is needed.
Enter heat pipes
Heat pipes are used either when a
traditional heatsink cannot efficiently
remove the heat from a device or when
weight or size targets can’t be met with
conventional heatsinks. Commonly,
these considerations apply to modern
computers.
Water cooling (via a water block,
pump and radiator with fans) is
another possible solution in some
cases. Still, it introduces complications like pumps, pump noise, potential pump failures and the possibility
of water leaks.
These problems do not occur with
By Dr David Maddison
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 19
heat pipes which are now important
elements of the CPU (central processing unit) and GPU (graphics processing unit) cooling assemblies in many
desktop and laptop computers, plus
many other electronic devices. Heat
pipes and vapour chambers are even
used in some smartphones.
Without adequate cooling, modern
CPUs and GPUs would be destroyed
in seconds if they didn’t have internal overheating protection to shut
them down.
Two-phase cooling devices are also
used for high-power IGBTs (insulated-
gate bipolar transistors) in wind turbines, electric vehicles, data centres
and solid-state lasers, among other
applications.
Heat pipe construction
Constant conductance heat pipes,
vapour chambers, thermosiphons
and related two-phase devices are
sealed hollow metal tubes or cavities
that have been evacuated of most air
(to a low pressure), into which a tiny
amount of liquid has been placed.
Some of this liquid evaporates to its
vapour form given the low pressure
inside the tube.
Depending upon the application,
the typical liquids used are water,
ammonia, alcohols such as methanol
or ethanol, R134a refrigerant or liquid
alkali metals such as sodium. We will
Expansion Vessel
Furnace
Coils
heat source by capillary action, gravity
or some other force, and the process
is endlessly repeated, removing heat
from the object to be cooled.
Heat pipes such as CCHPs and thermosiphons are typically used for cooling as described above, but the process
is equally applicable to supplying heat
to an area. It depends on which end of
the heat pipe the object to be heated or
cooled is located. In the case of vapour
chambers, they can be used to evenly
distribute heat as well as cold.
History of heat pipes
Initial Venting
Filling
Fig.1: the Perkins System of heating
from British Patent 6146, dated 30th
July 1831.
later discuss what liquids are used in
different applications.
Heat pipe operation
During operation, liquid at the heat
source (evaporator end) absorbs heat
and evaporates. The vapour migrates
to another area of the pipe (usually
the other end, called the condenser).
There, it condenses into a liquid and
releases ‘latent heat’ (described later)
into the surrounding environment.
This latent heat represents a large
amount of energy.
The liquid then migrates back to the
Angier March Perkins (son of
Jacob) invented what was to become
the antecedent of the heat pipe and
obtained US Letters Patent No. 888
in 1838 and UK Patent No 6146 for
his invention (see siliconchip.com.
au/link/abd5).
Later, he and his son, Loftus Perkins,
invented a hermetically-sealed boiler
tube with water or another liquid as
the working fluid. It was a heat transfer
device; however, it was single-phase
(liquid-only) and operated at high
pressure (about 20 atmospheres) and
high temperature (150°C or more). By
comparison, a modern heat pipe uses
two phases, eg, water and steam.
It was highly successful for about
100 years and was known as the “Perkins System of Heating”. Many of
these systems are still in use today in
Fig.2: a steam locomotive built by
Jacob Perkins in 1836 using his sealed
steam tube patent of that same year.
The device became known as the
Perkins Tube.
Fig.3: a Perkins steam oven displayed
at the Paris Exhibition of 1867 that
used a Perkins Tube.
20
Silicon Chip
Fig.4: an advertisement for a Perkins steam baking oven, probably from the
1890s.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
southern England and Wales; some are
160 years old.
The chronology of heat pipe development is confusing because an
important patent of Jacob Perkins from
1836 is widely misquoted as having
been awarded in 1936. This is British Patent No 7059, 12th April 1836,
“Steam engines; generating steam;
evaporating and boiling fluids for certain purposes”.
This device was a sealed vertical
tube filled with water that passed over
an evaporator and then a condenser. It
relied on gravity for the cooled condensate to return to the heat source (see
Figs.1-4) and became known as the
Perkins Tube. As this device contained
both water and steam, it was a twophase device, like a modern heat pipe.
Perkins Tubes were first used in
locomotive firebox superheaters.
Another important use was “stoppedend steam tubes” in bread-making
ovens, patented by Loftus Perkins in
1865. These were adopted by the British Army some years after difficulties
encountered feeding troops in the
Crimean War (which ended in 1856).
The ovens contained a multiplicity of slightly sloping tubes above
and below where the bread was
baked, each hermetically sealed and
filled with distilled water. The lower
end of each tube was immersed in
the furnace. The ovens were widely
acclaimed because of the even, continuous heat they supplied, plus their
economical operation.
The Perkins Tube relied on gravity
to return the condensed liquid; today,
they would be known as a two-phase
Fig.5: F.W. Gay’s thermosiphon heat
pipe invention, as disclosed in US
Patent 1,725,906.
siliconchip.com.au
thermosiphon. Later, we will discuss
the various types of heat pipes in
greater detail.
For more on the engineering genius
of the Perkins family, see siliconchip.
com.au/link/abd6
Later developments
In 1942, F. W. Gay developed a
finned heat pipe gas-to-gas heat
exchanger in the form of a thermosiphon to exchange heat between a flow
of hot air and cold air (see Fig.5).
The main problem with thermosiphons is that they rely on gravity,
so they only operate in a particular
orientation. But this problem can be
solved by using very small diameter
pipes called capillaries. The flow is
then dominated by capillary action,
which can act in opposition to the
force of gravity.
Simple examples of capillary action
are the way paint is drawn into the
bristles of a paintbrush, or how water
soaks upwards in tissue paper. This
action occurs because intermolecular
forces dominate the liquid’s smallscale behaviour, rather than gravity.
A capillary-based heat transfer
device was the subject of the 1942 patent application of Richard S. Gaugler
of General Motors (awarded in 1944)
for a “Heat Transfer Device” – see
siliconchip.com.au/link/abd7
However, nothing seems to have
come of it at the time. The idea of the
patent was that, unlike a thermosiphon, his capillary-based heat transfer
device (which today would be called
a heat pipe) could function in any orientation.
Independently of Gaugler’s work,
and seemingly without prior knowledge of it, in 1963 George M. Grover
of the US Los Alamos National Laboratory independently discovered the
heat pipe and filed a patent which was
awarded in 1966 for an “Evaporation-
Condensation Heat Transfer Device”
– see siliconchip.com.au/link/abd8
He coined the term “heat pipe”,
mentioned in the patent application.
Apparently, the patent examiner was
aware of Gaugler’s work (citing it) but
awarded the patent anyway.
Both inventions are almost identical, using materials such as metal
powders attached to the inside of
capillary tubes to enhance the capillary action by the wicking effect.
But while Gaugler’s was not widely
known or put to use, Grover’s was,
and he became known as the “father
of the heat pipe”. Grover’s work saw
the heat pipe put to use in space applications by NASA.
Latent heat
To further understand the operation
of heat pipes and related devices, we
must first discuss latent heat. Latent
heat is the release (or absorption) of
heat that occurs during a ‘phase transition’ such as between solid, liquid and
gaseous states (see Fig.6). It can also
be released or absorbed due to structural changes within a material, such
as changing from one crystal structure
to another.
For example, consider that if you
had ice at 0°C and you added heat to
it, it would melt and become liquid
water, but the water could still be at
Fig.6: water’s energy content vs its temperature at atmospheric pressure. Energy
added or removed can either change the temperature or change the phase. The
change in phase at constant temperature is indicated by the horizontal areas
of the graph and is due to latent heat. The sloping areas of the graph indicate
changes in temperature (sensible heat). Original source: Wikimedia user
Cawang (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 21
0°C. Where did that heat energy go?
It is the heat of fusion and is returned
when the liquid water is re-frozen.
Similarly, if you heat liquid water,
you get steam at 100°C, with the added
energy being the heat of vapourisation. That energy is returned when the
steam condenses as the heat of condensation (making steam burns even
worse than they already are).
Another example is the process of
sweating, which results in the body
being cooled due to energy removed
in the latent heat of vaporisation of
water as the sweat evaporates (swamp
coolers use the same effect).
During the release or absorption
of latent heat, two phases of the substance coexist, such as liquid water
and ice or liquid water and water
vapour.
There is a lot of energy associated
with these transitions, which is why
ice keeps a drink much colder for
longer than simply having the drink
at a temperature close to freezing.
Similarly, there is a lot more energy
in steam than there is in water close
to the boiling point, which is part of
the reason why steam is effective for
powering steam engines or turbines in
power stations.
Latent heat versus sensible
heat for cooling
Because of the large amount of
energy associated with latent heat, it
is much more efficient than traditional
sensible heat cooling. Latent heat is
shown as the horizontal regions in
Fig.6, while sensible heat corresponds
to the sloped sections. Note how the
heat of vaporisation is considerably
higher than the energy required to raise
water temperature from 0°C to 100°C!
Table 1: typical working fluids for heat pipes & their operating ranges.
Working fluid
Operating
temperature range
Silicon Chip
Operating
temperature range
Helium -271°C to -269°C
Ammonia -75°C to +125°C
Hydrogen -260°C to -230°C
Methanol -75°C to +120°C
Neon -240°C to -230°C
Acetone -48°C to +125°C
Oxygen -210°C to -130°C
Water +1°C to +325°C
Nitrogen -200°C to -160°C
Caesium +350°C to +925°C
Methane -180°C to -100°C
Potassium +400°C to +1025°C
Ethane -150°C to +25°C
Propylene -150°C to +60°C
Pentane -125°C to +125°C
Methylamine -90°C to +125°C
To put it another way, it takes much
less energy to boil a kettle full of water
starting at 0°C than it does to convert
all that boiling water into steam. You
can easily observe this yourself if you
force a kettle to stay on after the water
is boiled for a period equal to the boiling time. Most of the water will still
be liquid by the end.
Elements of a heat pipe
Heat pipes, and similar, essentially
comprise a container (often a tube but
not necessarily), a working fluid and
possibly a wick or capillary structure
– see Fig.7.
The container must:
• be easy to fabricate
• be chemically compatible with
the working fluid
• be wettable by the working fluid
• have sufficient strength and good
thermal conductivity
• in cases like spacecraft applications, be light
Common materials used for heat
pipes are copper, aluminium and
stainless steel. More exotic materials
Fig.7: the operation of a heat pipe. The working fluid evaporates at the hightemperature end and absorbs energy (1). It then migrates along the cavity to the
low-temperature end (2) and condenses, releasing its latent heat (3). The liquid
is absorbed by the wick structure and migrates back to the high-temperature
end (4), repeating the cycle. Original source: Wikimedia users Zootalures &
Offnfopt (CC BY-SA 3.0)
22
Working fluid
Australia's electronics magazine
NaK +425°C to +825°C
Sodium +500°C to +1225°C
Lithium +925°C to +1825°C
Silver +1625°C to +2025°C
such as tungsten, molybdenum, niobium and Inconel are used for the
highest-temperature applications.
Among other characteristics, the
working fluid must:
• be able to wet any wicking material present
• be able to wet the container walls
• be chemically & thermally stable
• have a high latent heat
• have high thermal conductivity
• be able to exist as a liquid and
vapour over the desired temperature range
• have a high surface tension to
drive capillary action
• have low vapour and liquid viscosity to aid flow
The working fluid used chiefly
depends on the desired temperature
range of the heat pipe. Water is the
most common working fluid, with an
operating temperature range of +1°C
to 325°C.
The lowest temperature heat pipe
uses helium for a range of -271°C to
-269°C and the highest temperature
pipe uses silver for an operational
Fig.8: several basic, straight, constant
conductance heat pipes (CCHPs) of the
type that can be bought online very...
siliconchip.com.au
range of +1625°C to +2025°C. See Table
1 for other working fluids.
Correct selection of the working
fluid is essential; if the temperature is
too high for the fluid, it will be all gas,
and if too low, it will freeze. The temperature range must accommodate the
coexistence of both liquid and vapour
of the chosen fluid.
The velocity of vapour in a heat pipe
is surprisingly high, approaching the
speed of sound. The return liquid flow
is at about walking speed.
Figs.9(a) & (b): a CCHP with a metal sintered powder wick opened up. Source:
Thermolab (http://thermolab.co.kr/)
Wicks
One of the defining features of a heat
pipe compared to a vapour chamber
or thermosiphon is the presence of a
wick or wicks. The function of a wick
is to transport working fluid from the
condenser back to the evaporator by
capillary action.
Wicks come in various forms, such
as sintered metal powder, grooves in
the tube, a screen mesh or other porous
or fibrous wicking structures, such as
carbon fibre or ceramic fibres. For some
examples of wicks, see Figs.9-11.
Sintering is when small particles of
metal are fused by heat and pressure,
forming a porous solid structure with
a very high surface area.
Figs.10(a) & (b): a CCHP with a grooved metal wick opened up. Source:
Thermolab (http://thermolab.co.kr/)
Heat pipe types
There are many variations on
heat pipes, but we’ll concentrate on
describing the more common types.
Standard heat pipe (CCHP)
Figs.11(a) & (b): CCHP with a metal mesh wick opened up. Source: Thermolab
(http://thermolab.co.kr/)
The constant conductance heat pipe
(CCHP) is the most common type of
heat pipe and is ‘simply’ a partially
evacuated, sealed tube with a wicking material and a working fluid
inside (see Figs.8 & 12). It transfers
Fig.12: the operation of a typical constant
►
conduction heat pipe. Heat applied to one end
causes the working fluid to evaporate and flow
along the centre of the tube to the cold end. It
then condenses and flows back to the hot end,
along the capillary wick, and the process repeats.
...inexpensively for experimentation.
Other CCHPs may have bends and
attachments to suit.
siliconchip.com.au
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May 2022 23
Fig.13: a CPU cooling assembly
(known as a “tower cooler”) with
six heat pipes. Note how they are
flattened to make good thermal
contact with a CPU. Heat is removed
from the ‘cold end’ of the heat pipes
via fin stacks and one or more fans,
blowing air between the fins. In this
case, one fan is mounted in the middle
of the two fin stacks.
heat energy from the ‘hot end’ to the
‘cold end’.
While a CCHP can work in any orientation, the maximum distance it can
work against gravity is about 250mm
for a copper/water heat pipe.
In many cooling applications such
as computer CPU coolers, fins are
added to the heatsink, and possibly
fans, to dissipate that heat (Fig.13).
While some lower-end modern CPUs
can be cooled with a standard finned
heatsink and fans, that is not good
enough at the high levels of heat generated by many modern CPUs, some
of which can exceed 200W under full
load.
To allow transfer into and out of
the heat pipe, sections of the tube
can be flattened, as shown in Fig.13.
These flattened sections can then be
laid side-by-side and machined to
form rectangular areas which make
Fig.15: a Dynatron-brand R15
vapour chamber base with a copper
stacked fin heatsink, recommended
for use with certain CPUs in
server applications. It is capable
of dissipating 165W. Despite the
relatively small source area (typically
around 200mm2), the vapour chamber
ensures an even distribution of heat
across the heatsink. Source: Dynatron
Corporation
24
Silicon Chip
Fig.14: the structure of a vapour chamber. Note the support structure made from
numerous solid copper pillars to resist the high clamping force.
intimate contact with either the heat
source (eg, the flat surface of a silicon
chip) or the heat removal system (eg,
a set of metal fins).
As long as the sections are not flattened so much that they pinch off the
inside of the pipe, this has little impact
on their performance.
Vapour chambers
A vapour chamber can be thought of
as a type of flattened and square CCHP
(see Fig.14). Its purpose is to distribute heat uniformly, remove hot spots,
and transfer high heat from a smaller
area such as CPU or GPU to a larger
heatsink such as the finned assembly.
That finned assembly can then deal
with the lower heat flux, as seen in
Figs.15 & 16.
A vapour chamber is constructed
much the same as a heat pipe. But
in addition to the capillary material
lining the interior chamber, there
may also be internal support posts to
allow for the high clamping pressures
involved. These are from the need to
firmly attach the heatsink and vapour
chamber to the device to be cooled, so
that it has sufficient thermal conductivity to the vapour chamber.
An advantage of a vapour chamber
is that the cooling assembly can be
larger and therefore quieter than a traditional heatsink, the latter of which
may require very powerful and noisy
fans to remove a high heat load. (Have
you ever heard a modern computer
server working? They sound like a
plane about to take off!)
Note that heat pipes used in coolers have a similar role; they spread
the heat out to a much larger area than
the source, allowing many more fins
to conduct the heat into the air, and
larger (and thus slower spinning and
Fig.16: an illustration of vapour chamber arrangement as used on a reference
Nvidia GTX580 graphics card. The function of the vapour chamber is to spread
heat evenly to the finned heatsink. The condensed liquid is returned via a wick
structure. “GPU” is the graphics processing unit chip.
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siliconchip.com.au
Fig.17: a video frame showing a vapour chamber from Razor Phone 2 with the
chamber cut open to reveal the wicking and support structure. From the video
titled “Razer Phone 2 Teardown - The Vapor Chamber is Incredibly Cool” at
https://youtu.be/UGsICbmmfws
quieter) fans to assist in that transfer.
The quietness of these designs is
a particular advantage for computer
gamers who want quiet machines that
must run for long periods under heavy
3D graphics computational loads.
Another advantage of vapour
chambers is that they can be used in
height-sensitive devices like phones
and laptops as they can be made as
thin as one millimetre, much thinner
than a heat pipe in the same application (see Fig.17). In such applications,
heat can be distributed and ‘diluted’
elsewhere in the device, or removed
via a flat outside surface such as the
back cover.
In a sense, this means that rather
than your phone or tablet CPU getting
hot under load and throttling back
its frequency, the whole phone/tablet instead becomes somewhat warm.
That’s because the same amount of
energy is spread over a wider area,
lowering the temperature and improving thermal transfer to the surrounding air.
Thermosiphons
Thermosiphons can be thought of
as wickless heat pipes (see Figs.18 &
19) and were the subject of the original invention of Perkins. While they do
not have a wick, sometimes they have
grooves on the pipe’s interior walls to
increase the surface area and facilitate
the return of the working fluid to the
evaporator.
Unlike CCHPs, they rely on gravity,
not capillary action, for the return of
the working fluid. Therefore, they can
only be used with the heat moving
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from a lower area to a higher location,
since gravity can only return the condensate to a lower area.
So why use thermosiphons instead
of CCHPs that can be used in any orientation? The advantage of thermosiphons is that they have about three
times the heat transfer capacity for
the same pipe diameter. They can also
transfer heat over distances of tens of
metres.
Since thermosiphons will remove
heat from the bottom of the pipe to
the top, but won’t transfer heat from
top to bottom, they can be thought of
as analogous to a diode.
This type of thermosiphon should
not be confused with the natural convention and circulation of water without a pump that occurs in some solar
hot water systems or older internal
combustion engines. While those are
classified as thermosiphons, they are
not heat pipes.
One variation is the loop thermosiphon, where the liquid return and
vapour paths are separated. This has
the advantage of removing any restriction caused by the liquid and vapour
flowing in the same pipe in different
directions.
Fig.18: the operation of a
thermosiphon heat pipe. This one
is embedded in the ground and is
designed to prevent the permafrost
from melting around buildings in
cold climates like Alaska or northern
Canada. The thermosiphon can also
be designed to support structures.
Original source: www.researchgate.
net/publication/266672789_Review_
of_Thermosyphon_Applications
Thermosiphons in building
construction
While not a problem in Australia
or New Zealand, there is permanently
frozen ground known as permafrost in
the far north of North America, Europe,
and Russia.
Any attempt to build on permafrost
will result in heat from the building
causing the permafrost to thaw, thus
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Fig.19: a heat pipe loop thermosiphon.
Source: Celsia, Inc
May 2022 25
Fig.20: thermosiphon support structures
hold up the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System
(TAPS). Without them, heat from the
pipeline would cause the permafrost to
melt, and the pipeline supports would
sink into the ground. Note the finned
condensers. These heat pipes use ammonia
as the working fluid and steel for the pipes.
Source: Dave Bezaire & Susi HavensBezaire (CC BY-SA 2.0)
destabilising the foundations of the
structure.
The solution is to either drive piles
deeply into the ground and build on
top of those, build on a thick gravel
pad, or use heat pipe technology to
keep the ground frozen, as shown in
Figs.20 & 21.
In cases where the ground has
thawed, it may be re-frozen and kept
frozen using a variation of a thermosiphon called a thermoprobe, such as
from Arctic Foundations of Canada
(http://arcticfoundations.ca/).
How good are heat pipes?
Excellent passive heat conductors
such as pure copper, aluminium,
graphite, and diamond have a thermal
conductivity between 250W/m.K and
1500W/m.K.
In comparison, heat pipes have a
thermal conductivity in the range of
5000W/m.K to 200,000W/m.K. So they
range from being around three times
better heat conductors to being 800
times better than solid metal!
Variable conductance heat
pipe (VCHP)
Fig.21: a diagram showing how the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System
thermosiphons shown in Fig.20 are made.
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Silicon Chip
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Constant conductance heat pipes are
linear devices in which the temperature at the evaporator end (the source
of heat where evaporation occurs)
drops proportionally to the difference
in temperature between the evaporator
end and the condenser end.
Situations where the heat source is
not generating much heat and/or the
condenser ambient temperature is low
can result in the device being excessively cooled. A variable conductance
heat pipe can prevent that.
In a variable conductance heat pipe,
the device being cooled is, by design,
kept at a relatively constant temperature even when heat dissipation from
the device changes or the ambient temperature of the condenser end changes
(see Figs.22 & 23). This is done by
adding a non-condensable gas (NCG)
to the heat pipe, in addition to the
working fluid.
A gas reservoir is also added at the
condensing end of the heat pipe (the
end remote from the heat source).
When there is significant heat to
be moved and the ambient temperature is not too low, the working fluid
vapour pressure pushes the NCG back
into the reservoir. The heat pipe then
works in the usual manner, as shown
at the top of Fig.22.
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But when the dissipation from the
device being cooled is low and/or the
ambient temperature is low, meaning the device could be excessively
cooled, the working fluid has a lower
pressure and cannot push back the
NCG as much. As shown at the bottom of Fig.22, less condensing area
is exposed, and therefore, the device
is not cooled as much and stays at an
appropriate temperature.
A VCHP can maintain the temperature of the evaporator end to within
1-2°C of the desired temperature. This
is despite significant variations in the
heat being dissipated by the device
at the evaporator end and the ambient temperature at the condenser end.
Loop heat pipes
The loop heat pipe is based on the
CCHP and is like a loop thermosiphon.
But unlike a thermosiphon, it does not
rely on gravity. Loop heat pipes can
transfer more heat over longer distances than CCHPs can. They can be
used in conjunction with CCHPs and
VCHPs. Applications include spacecraft, avionics cooling in aircraft and
aircraft de-icing – see Fig.24.
Rotating heat pipes
Fig.23: a variable conductance heat pipe from a spacecraft. The bulbous
structure is the gas reservoir, and the distant end is the evaporator. The
condenser portion is the long flange. The valve and pressure gauge are removed
when the device is put into service. Source: Advanced Cooling Technologies,
Inc (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Fig.24: a commercial loop heat pipe
system for NASA spacecraft designed
by Advanced Cooling Technologies.
The titanium/water heat pipes operate
from 70°C to 250°C. Spacecraft heat
pipes can have multiple evaporators
and condensers. Source: Advanced
Cooling Technologies
►
Fig.25: rotating heat pipes work
similarly to other heat pipes, but
they use centripetal/centrifugal
forces along with a tapered profile to
return the working fluid after it has
condensed.
►
A rotating heat pipe (Fig.25) is
designed to cool rotating machinery
such as motors or RF rotary joints, as
used in telecommunications. They
work much like a CCHP, but they rely
on centrifugal forces instead of relying on capillary action for the condensate return.
They do this either via a tapered
wall with a smaller diameter at the
condenser end or by having spiral
grooves similar to a rifle barrel to convey the condensate back to the evaporator. Heat can only flow in one direction in a rotating heat pipe, so it is
again analogous to a diode.
Fig.22: how a variable conductance heat pipe (VCHP) works. The top diagram
shows its operation under optimal conditions, while at the bottom, it has reduced
heat dissipation at the evaporator end (where the device being cooled is located)
due to less heat being produced. This is because non-condensable gas migrates
down the tube, blocking some of the condenser area and reducing its capacity.
Oscillating and
pulsating heat pipes
Oscillating or pulsating heat pipes
(OHP), are relatively new members
of the heat pipe family, having been
invented in the 1990s.
They comprise a continuous loop
of pipe or pipe-like shape laid out
in a serpentine manner, containing
alternating pockets of liquid ‘slugs’
and vapour bubbles which move back
and forth in relation to the condenser
area as they are alternatively heated
or cooled – see Fig.26.
siliconchip.com.au
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May 2022 27
They are often machined into a bottom plate, and a smooth top plate is
bonded to that, with the item to be
cooled attached to the top plate. In
Fig.26, the OHP is said to be bonded
to a battery pack but it could be just
about anything that generates heat.
A video of how an oscillating
heat pipe works can be seen, titled
“Pulsating Heat Pipe (PHP)/Oscillating heat pipe (OHP) -CFD analysis | Animation” at https://youtu.be/
glYguHLKRL0
Direct liquid cooling of ICs
Fig.26: an oscillating heat pipe for cooling an electric vehicle battery. Original
source: www.mdpi.com/1996-1073/11/3/655
Fig.27: a silicon chip with an onboard microfluidic cooling system, developed by
the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne. The fluid inlet and outlet
can be seen at the top of the device.
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Silicon Chip
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All the above-mentioned types of
heat pipes can be used to cool electronics or other devices. But a heat
pipe can only ever contact the exterior
of a chip or electronic device package
and often requires a thermal interface
material to achieve sufficient thermal
conductivity between the two. That
material always has some sort of thermal resistance, though.
Another way to cool silicon chips
that does not involve heat pipes, currently under development, is to build
liquid cooling channels into the chip
itself (see Fig.27). This technology is
under development at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne under the leadership of Professor
Elison Matioli.
In this case, liquid-carrying microchannels are fabricated in the silicon
substrate. The size of the channels vary
according to the cooling required in a
particular area of the device. The channel size varies because if they were all
of the same small size, a large amount
of energy would be required to pump
the fluid.
So, like a human circulatory system
to which the cooling channels have
been likened, the channels are only
narrow in the areas where the cooling
is needed most.
Cooling channels of the small size
involved come under the general area
of microfluidics, which we covered in
the Silicon Chip article on Fluidics in
the August 2019 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11762).
This type of system has been shown
to be capable of removing 1700W/cm2
with the chip temperature limited to
60°C. That’s about ten times more
effective than external liquid cooling
or cooling using heat pipes.
The work is significant because,
until now, semiconductor device
fabrication and cooling have been
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considered two separate areas of
design. This approach integrates the
two areas.
Ice cream scoops
One application you might not have
considered for heat pipes is ice cream
scoops! Heat is transmitted from the
hand via a heat pipe in the handle to
the scoop, where it melts the ice cream,
making it easier to scoop out (Fig.28).
You can view the US Patent for this
vital technology at siliconchip.com.
au/link/abda
Related videos
● “What’s Inside the Worlds’ Fastest Heat Conductor?” – https://youtu.be/
OR8u_ _Hcb3k
● “Liquid Crystals Painted on Heat Pipes” – https://youtu.be/Y6K7h9tbD_s
● “Heat Pipe Basics and Demonstration Video” – https://youtu.
be/2vk5B6Gga10
● “How Copper Heatpipes Are Made | China Factory Tour (Cooler Master)” –
https://youtu.be/AD-4WKwCAfE
Fig.29: heat pipes (labelled) as
used on a NASA Kilopower
experimental reactor proposed,
for use in space, on the Moon
and on Mars. Source: NASA
Heat pipe limits
Limitations are imposed on the
operation of heat pipes by several factors. These include:
1) the capillary limit, where capillary action in the returning liquid
is not fast enough to support the
evaporation rate in the opposite
direction
2) the entrainment limit whereby
the velocity of the vapour near
the wick is enough to restrict the
return flow of the liquid
3) the sonic limit, where the vapour
cannot exceed the speed of sound
at the pressure inside the heat
pipe whereby a shockwave may
be created
4) excessive heat, causing the liquid
in the wick to evaporate
Conclusion
Heat pipes are a vital technology for
today’s high-density semiconductors.
They allow waste heat to be removed
to a sufficiently large fin stack for the
semiconductor device to remain at
a reasonable operating temperature,
without the additional complexity,
cost or size of a standard liquid-cooling
system.
With the density of digital semiconductors continuing to increase, and
greater demand for high-efficiency
power semiconductors in renewable
energy systems and electric vehicles,
they have become an essential part of
SC
modern technology.
Fig.28: a Thermoworks ice cream
scoop that uses a heat pipe to assist in
scooping the ice cream. It appears to
be no longer manufactured.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 29
The History of
Transistors
Part 3: by Ian Batty
Left: a Texas Instruments SN7400
quad NAND gate die after its plastic
encapsulation was dissolved. Source:
https://w.wiki/4mri
Below: the 2N2222 50V NPN bipolar
junction transistor. Source: https://w.
wiki/4pAP
Over the last two months, I described
the invention of transistor technology
and the subsequent innovations and
improvements that led to the current
transistor technology. In this third
and final instalment, we take a more
in-depth look at how transistors work,
including bipolar junction transistors
(BJTs) and both main types of fieldeffect transistors (JFETs and Mosfets).
T
he previous two articles in this
series covered the history of
transistor development, from the first-
generation point-contact transistors to
the modern epitaxial planar type. More
advanced types exist but are relatively
uncommon. Descriptions of devices
such as heterojunction and unijunction transistors are available online.
Wikipedia is a good starting point; see
https://w.wiki/4SJw
Those articles described the physical
30
Silicon Chip
construction of transistors, their manufacturing processes and the details of
how and when they were invented.
This one will concentrate on explaining how they behave, starting with
some basic semiconductor physics.
After that will come information on
performance limitations, the origin of
the circuit symbol and some typical
model numbering schemes.
We’ll also cover field-effect transistors (FETs) in some detail, including
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junction FETs (JFETs) and metal-oxide
semiconductor FETs (Mosfets), used
individually and in CMOS (complementary Mosfet) ICs. Let’s start with
some fundamental semiconductor
theory.
Semiconductor physics
We’re accustomed to electric current as a flow of electrons. Electrons
flow freely in most metals, which is
why they are conductive. Fig.43 shows
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how metal atoms allow electrons from
their outer shells to leave the influence
of the nucleus and ‘wander about’ in
the metal’s crystalline structure. These
outer electrons are known as valence
electrons.
Although electron-deficient atoms
become positively-charged ions, the
net charge in the metal is zero; the positive and negative charges still balance.
The population of free electrons is
sometimes known as the ‘electron gas’.
Metals have so many free electrons
that they are not suitable for the active
parts of transistors. We want to influence the conductivity of a transistor’s
structure, and metals are already such
good conductors that transistor action
is impossible only with metals.
Fig.43: in conductive
metals like copper, the
valence electrons are free
to roam among the lattice
of atoms and hence provide
high conductivity.
Fig.44: silicon has four
valence electrons and
forms a very regular
crystal with those electrons
more-or-less trapped
between each pair of
adjacent silicon atoms. It
therefore has poor natural
conductivity, so it is
classed as a semiconductor.
Semiconductors
For simplicity, I’m going to use
the atomic model that was standard
prior to quantum physics, considering
atoms and electrons as distinct objects.
Fig.44 shows a crystal of silicon, but
the following applies equally well to
germanium.
With four valence (outer) electrons,
pure silicon/germanium crystals form
very regular lattices with near-perfect
atom-to-atom bonds. These perfect
bonds mean that few free electrons
can exist. This scarcity of free electrons explains silicon’s poor natural
conductivity – it’s a semiconductor.
Pure silicon is better known as
intrinsic silicon. Its four outermost
(valence) electrons class it as a tetravalent element.
This tetravalent nature allows silicon atoms to form tight, perfect bonds
between each other. Ideally, each set of
covalent bonds completely ‘captures’
the electrons in each atom’s outer shell
and binds them tightly between their
parent atom and its neighbours.
The bonding is not totally perfect,
however. Some electron motion is possible, which gives silicon a resistance
much higher than a true metal such
as copper, but less than that of a true
insulator such as sulfur.
It’s possible to add small amounts
of impurity atoms to the crystal to
tailor conductivity very exactly. The
improved conductivity that comes
from this doping by impurities is at
the heart of semiconductor technology of all kinds. The effect of doping
is to create free charge carriers that are
not tightly bound into the silicon-to-
silicon lattice.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.45: when impurities are
introduced into the silicon
crystal (it’s ‘doped’), in this
case, a phosphorus atom,
the situation changes. The
phosphorus atom has five
valence electrons, so one is
left free to roam the crystal,
giving it a permanent
negative charge (making it
N-type) and increasing its
conductivity.
Fig.45 shows the result of heating
the silicon to melting point and adding a tiny amount of phosphorus. With
five valence electrons, the phosphorous atoms will slot into the crystal
structure on solidification, but with
only four of each set of five phosphorus electrons taken up into the crystal
lattice. Now, each phosphorus atom’s
excess electron is free to drift about in
the doped silicon crystal.
In a true metal, each free electron
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leaves behind a positively charged
metal ion in the crystal so that the
charges balance out over the entire
piece. But our doped N-type silicon
has a permanent negative charge of
electrons. Remember that, although a
metal does have free electrons, these
are not a permanent surplus. The metal
is electrically neutral.
Phosphorus, a pentavalent element, is a donor impurity – the “n” in
donor reminds us that by phosphorus’
May 2022 31
donation of an electron, the intrinsic semiconductor
becomes N-type.
Current would flow in this material, pretty much as in
a metal. The main difference is that we have exact control
over the N-type silicon’s conductivity; heavier phosphorous doping gives more conductivity, light doping gives
less conductivity.
This helps explain the near-fanatical search for silicon
(and germanium) of near-absolute purity. Any ‘foreign’
atoms can have a dramatic and uncontrolled effect on a
semiconductor, considering that the doping ratios are so
tiny: some as low as one part in 107 (one in 10,000,000).
Unwanted contamination must be much less to give reliable doping effects.
What if we dope with aluminium, as in Fig.46? It’s a trivalent element, and with only three electrons, there will
be a net loss of charge as one silicon atom cannot achieve
its preferred ‘take-up’ of four valence electrons. A loss of
negative charge must be a supply of positive charge, and
this is a positive ‘hole’ – the opposite of an electron.
Aluminium, a trivalent element, is an acceptor impurity,
with the “p” reminding us that, by aluminium’s acceptance
of an electron, the intrinsic semiconductor becomes P-type.
If an electron escapes an adjacent atom, it may wander in and fill the hole, but that will leave another hole
behind. Thus, the P-type silicon has a permanent net positive charge and is also conductive to an extent determined
by the doping concentration.
Do holes really exist?
Are holes really only a flow of electrons in the opposite
direction? This was a critical step in the understanding
of semiconductor physics. The way that holes flow is different enough from that of electrons that we are justified
in describing hole flow as a distinct kind of current flow.
One critical difference is diffusion/flow speed. Holes
move more slowly than electrons, and this accounts for
NPN transistors having better high-frequency characteristics than PNPs. Electron flow in the N-type emitter
and collector of an NPN transistor (the bulk of the entire
transistor) is faster than hole flow in the P-type emitter
and collector of a PNP transistor.
Hole flow actually already exists in some metals, it is
just much less common than electron flow.
It seems no sooner had we discounted ‘current from
positive to negative’ by the discovery of electrons than
we needed to call it back from obscurity.
Be aware, though, that this is not the conventional current flow model, which – coming so many decades before
the identification of hole flow as a real-but-uncommon
phenomenon – did not include current carriers.
It’s now clear why semiconductor action was initially
so hard to describe and understand. Valve theory can be
handled pretty well with classical Newtonian physics and
the conventional ‘tiny solar system’ model of the atom with
electrons orbiting the central nucleus. But semiconductor
theory is impossible without delving into the weird world
of quantum physics.
It’s that complexity which bedevilled Welker, Mataré,
Bardeen, Brattain, Shockley and all of the other physicists,
chemists and engineers who brought us the transistor.
Majority & minority carriers
The description so far has shown the intended result
of doping: a surplus of electrons in N-type, a surplus of
holes in P-type. These are the ‘majority carriers’.
In reality, thermal agitation of the crystal lattice (occurring at all temperatures above absolute zero, -273.15°C)
will liberate some charges of the opposite polarity to those
created by doping; N-type semiconductors will exhibit a
small numbers of holes while P-type will exhibit a small
numbers of electrons. These are ‘minority carriers’.
We might expect minority carriers to be obliterated by
the overwhelming number of majority carriers.
But in practice, new minority carriers are continually
being generated by thermal agitation. Because they are
thermally generated, they increase with temperature.
Germanium is especially productive in this regard and
this is why leakage currents (which are caused by minority
carriers) are so troublesome in germanium semiconductors.
The combination of high leakage currents and an inability
to operate over about 75°C contributed to silicon’s supplanting of germanium in semiconductor devices.
This is also the basis of thermal runaway, where leakage at high temperatures causes increased current flow,
which causes increased heating and possibly, eventual
self-destruction.
The semiconductor diode
Fig.46: in contrast to phosphorus, aluminium has three
valence electrons, so when a silicon crystal is doped
with aluminium, it obtains a permanent positive charge
(P-type). This results in a ‘hole’ (lack of electron) that can
also roam the crystal lattice, albeit with lower mobility
than an electron.
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Silicon Chip
The following figures show holes and electrons travelling in straight lines – this simplicity makes the drawings
easier to understand. Be aware that, in reality, their paths
are random and wandering.
Let’s take two pieces of doped semiconductor: N-type and
P-type. If we join them, as in Fig.47, we find the junction
region ‘populated’ with both holes (P-type) and electrons
(N-type). We now have a two-element device – a diode.
Holes in the P material and electrons in the N material
are mutually attracted and will flow to the junction. On
crossing the junction, holes will meet the excess electrons
in the N material and will recombine with them. Likewise,
electrons crossing the junction will meet excess holes in
the P material and recombine with them.
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This means that a small region on each side of the junction will contain only the crystal lattice, with the formerly-
polarised atoms (whether originally P or N) neutralised by
the inflow of opposite-polarity charge carriers – see Fig.48.
In practice, the ‘rush’ of charge happens progressively
in a diffused device, as the top layer diffuses into the bulk
of the substrate. The depletion zone will assume a small
potential dependent on the type of semiconductor.
As this potential prevents charge carriers from crossing
it, it appears that any applied voltage must exceed this
depletion zone’s effective potential before current can flow.
Fig.49 shows that making the P-type more negative and
the N-type more positive will cause holes to move to the
negative end and electrons to move to the positive end.
This is reverse bias for the diode; the depletion zone widens, and no current flows.
Minority carriers will cross the depletion zone, and
these constitute the diode’s leakage current. As noted
above, minority carriers increase with temperature, and
occur in much higher numbers in germanium than silicon.
If the reverse bias is excessive, minority carriers can
reach such high numbers and travel so quickly that they
collide with the crystal lattice and ‘knock off’ extra charge
carriers. This is the avalanche effect, and it can cause
reverse current to skyrocket, destroying the diode through
overheating.
Alternatively, with a limited current applied as in the
case of a zener diode, it is the intended operating mechanism. At least, this is the case for zeners above about 5.1V;
they conduct in avalanche mode, whereas below 5.1V,
a different conduction mechanism (tunnelling) is used.
Fig.50 shows that applying the opposite polarity to the
diode (negative to the N-type, positive to the P-type) creates a forward bias. Electrons move away from the negative terminal and towards the depletion zone. Likewise,
holes move towards the depletion zone.
As the forward bias increases, the depletion zone narrows and is eventually overcome. Current flows through
the diode, with a small voltage drop in the depletion zone.
Electrons and holes meet and recombine at the junction,
and this recombination allows current to flow continuously.
Fig.50 appears to show two ‘channels’ in the diode: one
for electrons and the other for holes. In reality, it’s a mess.
Holes and electrons move like clouds – chaotic when you
look closely, but with an overall, predictable direction.
For germanium, current flow begins at around 0.1V for
junction construction or around 0.4V for alloy-diffused
construction. For silicon, it’s around 0.6V for common
types. Germanium’s low forward voltage drop was its only
real advantage over silicon.
Silicon devices such as the schottky diode (using a
metal-semiconductor junction) have lower forward drops
of about 0.3-0.4V. This is about half that of a P-N junction
diode because the depletion zone is about half as wide; the
metal side of the diode has no depletion zone. Schottky
diodes withstand lower reverse bias voltages though (for
a similar reason) and also have higher leakage currents.
The maximum forward current is principally limited by
heating in the diode junction due to Ohm’s Law losses. A
silicon diode passing a current of 1A will drop as much
as one volt, thus converting about 1W of the electrical
energy to infrared emissions and heat. The diode must be
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Fig.47: when N-type and P-type doped silicon
crystals meet, the roaming electrons and holes are
attracted to each other and ‘cancel out’.
Fig.48: the cancellation noted in Fig.47 results in a
“depletion zone” forming at the junction of the two
zones, where there are neither free-roaming electrons
nor holes, thus blocking the flow of current between
the zones.
Fig.49: by applying a reverse-biased voltage across
this PN junction, the depletion zone widens, so
current will still not flow. However, that would
change if the bias voltage was increased to the point
of avalanche breakdown, at which point a high
current would suddenly start to flow.
Fig.50: on the other hand, if a forward-biased voltage
is applied to the PN junction, the depletion zone
shrinks, and if the bias voltage is high enough, it is
eliminated and the roaming electrons and holes can
once again meet. The result is that current will flow,
with a slight voltage loss as it crosses the junction
(the diode’s forward voltage).
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capable of dissipating this without melting its junction.
To handle higher currents, the junction and/or package have to be increased in size, a heatsink needs to be
attached or a schottky type (with a lower forward voltage
and thus dissipation) used – or a combination of all three.
Now for amplification
Fig.51: the basic structure of an N-channel JFET. The
negatively doped (N-type) channel is connected to the
drain and source electrodes on either side via ohmic
contacts. The P-type gate(s) form diode junctions with the
channel. In operation, a negative voltage is applied to the
gates relative to the drain/source, so these junctions are
reverse-biased and virtually no current flows.
Fig.52: if the negative bias on the JFET gate is high
enough, the depletion zone extends all the way through
the channel, ‘pinching off’ the current flow between drain
and source.
Fig.53: with a less negative JFET gate bias, the depletion
zone still narrows the conducting channel, decreasing
its conductivity, but current can now flow between the
source and drain.
Fig.54: even with zero gate bias, a depletion zone still
exists. This narrows the channel, so a JFET typically does
not allow a high current to flow. This property is taken
advantage of in ‘current regulator diodes’ (a component
you don’t often see these days).
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Silicon Chip
Next, let’s look at the field-effect transistor (FET), the
device patented in 1925 by Julius Lilienfeld, and the device
that William Shockley and his team tried and ultimately
failed to develop.
Lilienfeld’s 1925 patent provided a starting point for
William Shockley’s efforts at Bell Labs in the 1940s. After
much frustration and with only very weak demonstrations of any effect, Shockley’s team (led by Bardeen and
Brattain) abandoned the field-effect approach and successfully embarked on point-contact and then junction
transistor research.
Looking back, it appears that Shockley’s efforts were
frustrated by the imperfect nature of his feedstock. Without germanium of near-perfect purity, and without a crystal surface of near-perfect regularity and alignment, his
intended electrostatic influence could not penetrate the
chaotic and tangled surface of what would be the conducting channel.
Ironically, Shockley could well have succeeded had he
listened to Gordon Teal’s insistence on using feedstock of
the highest possible purity and regularity.
Shockley’s field-effect efforts were frustrated by the
poorly-understood concept of surface states, the understanding of which eventually led to the successful construction of FETs. Remarkably, this device’s operation is
very similar to a triode valve, as had been Shockley’s aim.
The FET has a single conducting path between its source
(‘cathode’) and its drain (‘anode’), and it presents a very
high input impedance at its gate (‘grid’). Two major FET
technologies exist.
The junction FET (JFET) uses a diode structure for its
gate. During regular operation, the diode is reverse-biased,
so it allows minuscule current to flow, in the low nanoamps (1/1000 of a microamp) and presents impedances
easily exceeding 1000MW.
This contrasts with vacuum tubes, where grid currents
due to emission and gas effects are commonly in the low
microamps range, to give input impedances well under
100MW.
JFETs are suitable as low-noise amplifiers, gain control
devices and radio-frequency amplifiers into the hundreds
of megahertz. Working models were presented in 1953 by
George F. Dacey and Ian M. Ross (see http://en.wikipedia.
org/wiki/JFET).
Actual operation is simplicity itself. Let’s say we use an
N-type channel, as in Fig.51. Electrons flow into the channel via the source connection. This is a simple ohmic connection, not a diode junction, so the electron flow continues as electrons; ideally, there are no holes to recombine or
carry current in an N-channel FET’s conducting channel.
This differs both from the junction transistor and from
the vacuum triode. Junction transistors and triodes both
create a space charge, either within the base (transistor) or
surrounding the hot cathode (vacuum triode). The junction FET needs neither forward bias (transistor action)
nor a heated cathode (triode action) to permit conduction.
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Fig.55: you can see here how insensitive the JFET’s is
to changes in drain-source voltage above a few volts;
the channel current remains more-or-less constant,
determined mainly by the gate bias. A current-regulator
diode is just a JFET with its gate permanently connected
to the source, so it always has 0V bias. You can see from
this plot how they provide a semi-constant current.
Current flows through the channel towards the drain.
Again, this is a simple ohmic connection. The device so
far appears to be simply a resistor, its initial resistance
controlled by the amount of doping in the semiconductor channel.
With the N-type channel, a P-type gate is added to the
side of the channel. A negative voltage will act as a reverse
bias on the P-N diode, so current flow between gate and
channel is virtually zero, as shown in Fig.52. The bias
penetrates the full depth of the channel and forces current flow to stop. In a valve, we would call it cut-off. In
the JFET, this is pinch-off.
Fig.53 shows the JFET with a reduced negative bias
while Fig.54 shows it with zero bias. There is some depletion zone effect even at zero bias, since the right-hand end
of the channel becomes more positive with respect to the
zero voltage bias at the gate is closer to the positive drain
connection voltage. This makes the gate progressively
negative compared to the channel.
JFET operation is similar to valve action: with zero bias,
about 10mA flows. As the negative bias increases, current
falls until the point where the bias voltage causes current flow to cease. If we think of the JFET’s channel as a
resistor, it’s having its cross-sectional area reduced. This
increases its resistance.
For the valve, the effect is like a resistor of constant
cross-sectional area but of poorer conductivity (higher
‘natural resistance’) with increasing bias.
Remember that the junction transistor has its current
carriers diffusing slowly and randomly across the base
region. In contrast, the FET’s channel experiences a significant voltage difference (similar to the anode-cathode
field in a vacuum tube) that does accelerate current carriers in their path from source to drain.
Because the JFET’s gate is not within the channel’s current flow, we don’t get anything similar to the Edison effect
we see in valves, where the grid is naturally weakly negative. With the moderate negative bias shown in Fig.54, the
depletion zones widen, restricting current flow and the –3V
bias reduces the drain current to 2.5mA, ¼ of maximum.
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So the JFET shows a non-linear transfer characteristic:
50% of cut-off bias allows only 25% of zero-bias current.
The curves flatten off to an almost constant current after a
few volts are applied across the device, as shown in Fig.55.
At lower voltages, the gate voltage to drain current relationship is not linear. The JFET’s curves, in valve terms,
are most similar to those of a remote-cutoff pentode.
The JFET has no semiconductor junctions in its conduction path, so there is no ‘noisy’ recombination of holes and
electrons. Lacking a heated cathode, electron flow does
not suffer thermal agitation, so internal noise is low. The
JFET is a naturally low-noise device, with noise figures
less than 1dB for many types.
Unlike valves (but like bipolar transistors), FETs are made
in both polarities: a P-channel FET would give exactly the
same characteristics as those above, but would be pinched
off by a positive gate voltage relative to the source.
The JFET’s gate-channel junction overcomes the surface-
state problem that frustrated Shockley: its reverse-biased
diode readily accepts a control voltage and widens its barrier region in response.
Mosfets
The metal-oxide semiconductor (silicon) FET (Mosfet),
also known as the insulated gate FET (IGFET), uses a thin
insulating layer between the gate connection and the bulk
of the device. Fig.56 shows a simplified version.
These FETs offer impedances in the millions of megohms with gate leakage currents below 1nA. As well as
high-impedance, radio-frequency and low-noise applications, Mosfet technology is used in high-power switching
and linear devices such as for RF and audio power amplifiers, and DC applications such as power controllers in
electric cars and switch-mode power supplies.
The greatest usage of Mosfets is found in the millions
of active sites in microprocessors, where it is known as
CMOS (complementary metal-oxide semiconductor) due
to the use of both N-channel and P-channel devices.
Again, Shockley’s surface-state problems are averted.
The semiconductor-insulator interface is a continuation
of the highly-regular, highly purified silicon lattice. It’s
just that the channel is doped (and is therefore conductive), while the oxide layer is not (and is thus a very good
insulator).
The bias voltage field is propagated across the oxide
layer by the ordinary process of dielectric strain, and is
Fig.56: a Mosfet is similar to a JFET, but instead of using
a reverse-biased PN junction to isolate the gate from the
channel, it uses an extremely thin layer of semiconductor
oxide; typically silicon dioxide, SiO2, basically glass –
an excellent insulator. The gate’s electric field typically
enhances electron/hole flow in the channel when applied;
it is pinched off otherwise. These are thus known as
‘enhancement mode’ devices.
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Fig.57: a dual-gate Mosfet is pretty much what you’d
expect, like a regular Mosfet but with two separate gate
terminals. They are useful as mixers or variable-gain
amplifiers.
Fig.58: a simplified
model of a bipolar
junction transistor
(BJT) operating as
a common-emitter.
Note how the emitter
current (Ie) is the
sum of the collector
current (Ic) and the
base current (Ib).
Here beta or hfe = 50
(50mA ÷ 1mA).
Not exactly a tetrode: the dual-gate Mosfet
Fig.59: we’ve
removed the
collector from
consideration so we
can examine what
is happening in the
base. Holes from
the emitter enter the
base region, but the
base’s light doping
means that few of
them recombine
with base electrons,
leaving a surplus
“space charge” of
holes in the base.
It’s this space
charge that will
become collector
current.
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Silicon Chip
thus able to directly influence charge carriers in the channel; the interfering jumble of irregular surface states that
bedevilled Shockley is absent.
FETs offer transconductances in the 1000~10,000μS
(microsiemens) range, roughly the same as valve tetrodes
and pentodes. Despite this, FETs are rarely used in the
main parts of audio or RF amplifiers, where bipolar junction transistors (BJTs) are most common. Since BJTs offer
transconductances some ten times that of FETs, FETs need
very high load resistances to give comparable gains.
But you will find FETs of all kinds as low-noise “front
ends” and in amplifiers, especially op amps.
Various sub-types exist, and it’s possible to build
depletion-mode Mosfets that require bias to reduce current
to give operational usefulness (like the vacuum triode), or
enhancement-mode types that must have bias applied to
conduct at all (just like bipolar transistors!).
William Shockley’s foundation patent described the
familiar ‘triode’ transistor. But he also described a multilayer device (mentioned in the first article of this series)
intended for use as a mixer.
So, why not a multi-gate Mosfet? The dual-gate Mosfet
looks like a tetrode – one source/drain pair and one channel with two independent gates (see Fig.57). The extra
gate, however, does not act as does the screen grid in a
valve tetrode. It gives little if any increase in gain, and little if any reduction of output-input feedback capacitance
in most circuits.
The second gate’s effective transconductance is about
that of the first gate. The dual-gate Mosfet can have gain
control voltages applied to its second gate, and the device
is often used in the famous ‘cascode’ circuit at VHF and
in high-voltage wideband video amplifiers.
This gives high gain with virtually no troublesome feedback, especially the Miller Effect that limits gain at higher
frequencies in conventional single-stage amplifiers. The
dual-gate device is also close to being an ideal mixer.
The remainder of this article details operation of the
‘transistor’ as we usually think of it – the bipolar junction transistor or BJT. The BJT behaves unlike any thermionic device that came before, and is also completely
unlike its later solid-state ‘cousin’, the field-effect transistor already described.
The transistor
Let’s consider the most common real-world BJT circuit,
the common-emitter amplifier.
Fig.58 shows a BJT with bias applied. It’s a PNP device
(P-type emitter and collector, N-type base) like the BC107
(silicon) or OC71 (germanium). Notice that the emitter
current (51mA) is the base current (1mA) plus the collector current (50mA). This gives a base-to-collector current
gain of 50mA ÷ 1mA = 50.
Considering the OC71, the transistor has a typical input
resistance at low frequencies of around 500~5000W. Let’s
say it’s 1kW. Its output resistance is much higher, but let’s
say 10kW for simplicity, and let’s use quite a small input
signal of just 1μA AC.
A quick back-of-the envelope calculation shows this:
1μA into 1kW ohms is 1nW (10-9W). This is the signal’s
input power to the transistor.
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A current gain of 50 means the collector signal current
is 1μA × 50 = 50μA. Now, 50μA in the output resistance
of 10kW gives us 25mW (2.5 × 10-5W). This is the potential output power delivered to the next amplifying stage.
The power gain works out to 2500 times or around +44dB.
This is around the theoretical maximum for the venerable OC71, but given that the common BC107 has a current gain around 250 with an output impedance of up to
50kW, you can see that a modern transistor’s maximum
power gain is quite impressive.
Power gain derives from two main factors: the current
gain, and the fact that the transistor’s output resistance is
considerably higher than its input resistance. These combine to give high power gains.
How is this possible?
With sufficient negative bias on the base, electrons are
attracted out (down) from the P-type emitter, liberating
holes that flow upwards to cross the bulk of the emitter
and enter the base-emitter junction.
Arriving in the N-type base, the holes meet the resident
majority electrons. This sounds like diode action, and it
is. But it’s a pretty poor diode, because the base is very
lightly doped, and has very few electrons compared to the
flood of holes entering.
Fig.59 shows the movement of holes in the emitter and
their interaction with electrons within the base, but with
no collector voltage. Electrons leaving the emitter connection to flow to the battery’s positive pole liberate holes in
the emitter region. Electrons enter at the base from the battery’s negative pole to recombine with holes in the base
region, thus forming the base current.
The few electrons that do meet holes and recombine
with them become the base current in the base lead. Since
there are many more holes than the base electrons can
recombine with, the base electrons form a positive ‘cloud’
similar to the space charge that forms around a thermionic valve’s filament, with the important difference that
the valve’s space charge only ever consists of electrons.
Notice, though, that the base is at pretty well the same
potential throughout; there is no powerful electric field to
either attract or repel the cloud of holes in the base. The
holes naturally repel each other and diffuse throughout
the base. This diffusion is augmented by more and more
holes flooding in to the base.
Some holes diffuse all the way across to the base-
collector junction, and more particularly, to the base-
collector depletion zone, changing the effective base width,
as shown in Fig.60.
With the base at about 0.3V and the collector at 10V,
there is a powerful electric field across the extremely thin
depletion zone – it’s probably a micrometre or less in
width. As soon as holes diffuse into the depletion zone,
they rapidly cross the collector’s P-type material. Reaching
the collector connection, they recombine with “incoming”
electrons to become collector current.
Or, in point form:
1. Holes cross the emitter-base junction and enter the
base according to the amount of bias applied.
2. With enough bias, holes enter the base region and
combine with the resident electrons to form the base current. Since the base doping is light, there are not many
electrons available to do this.
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Fig.60: this plot
illustrates how
the effective
base width is
reduced at higher
collector voltages,
providing shorter
transit times for
electrons and
holes.
3. Holes in the base overwhelm the few electrons, so a
space charge of holes floods the base.
4. The holes, by mutual repulsion, diffuse to fill the
base region.
5. Some holes diffuse all the way to the base-collector
junction’s depletion zone.
6. Once holes diffuse into the depletion zone, they
encounter a powerful electric field and become collector current.
7. Arriving at the collector terminal (connection), holes
recombine with entering electrons which form the external collector current.
The base current may be one-fiftieth, or as little as
one-thousandth, of the emitter current. The collector current is almost the same as emitter current (it’s the emitter
current minus the much smaller base current). Therefore,
this device has high current gain.
Compared to valves, BJTs have very high mutual
transconductance (gm). This is the ratio of change in collector (or anode) current to the change in base (or grid)
voltage that caused it, and is measured in microsiemens
(or micromhos for us “oldies” – mho is ohm backwards,
and this is the inverse of resistance).
The iconic 6AC7 set a benchmark gm of 9000μS in
valve technology (you may know this as 9mA/V). A grid
voltage swing of 1V would cause the anode current to
change by 9mA.
The humble germanium OC70 has a gm of around
30,000μS or 30mS; a base voltage swing of only 100mV
gives a collector current swing of 3mA. A silicon BC109
transistor has a gm of about 90mS or 90mA/V.
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Table 1
Common
emitter
Common
base
Common
collector
(emitterfollower)
Voltage gain
High,
30~1000
High,
30~1000
Low,
0.95~0.999
Current gain
High,
30~1000
Low,
0.95~0.999
High,
30~1000
Power gain
Up to
1,000,000x
Up to 1000x
Up to 1000x
Input
impedance
Medium,
500W~5kW
Low,
10~50W
High,
5kW~1MW
Output High, 30kW+ High, 30kW+
impedance
Feedback
impedance
Signal
inversion
Low
Greatest
effect
Least effect
Not usually
considered
Yes
No
No
Properties of different transistor circuit configurations
Fig.61: a bipolar transistor’s collector-emitter current flow mostly depends on the base-emitter current flow and not the
collector-emitter voltage. This is a valuable property as it means they provide substantially constant collector current
regardless of collector voltage. In this sense, they operate similarly to a pentode valve, not a triode.
However, bipolar transistors are not commonly characterised for transconductance (although FETs often are). The
most useful single parameter for a BJT is base-to-collector
current gain, written as β (beta), hfe (h parameter, Forward,
common Emitter) or h21 (h parameter, output current to
input current).
Beta values range from around 30 (OC70) to 900 (BC109)
in small-signal transistors, and from about 150 down to
only about 12 in power transistors; for example, a 2N3055
has a typical hfe of 120 at 0.3A Ic and 12 at 10A The
2SD2153 high-gain transistor has a specified hfe at 500mA
of between 560 and 2700.
Plotting collector current against base current (for differing collector voltages) gives the curves in Fig.61. Notice
that, like the field-effect transistor, the bipolar transistor has a ‘pentode characteristic’: at any collector voltage above a few volts, collector current is pretty much
independent of collector voltage. In other words, the bipolar transistor has a high output resistance.
However, unlike the FET’s non-linear voltage-current
characteristic, the BJT’s base current to collector current characteristic is quite linear. This means that the
base-to-collector current gain (β, hfe) is pretty much the
same over a range of collector currents.
Outside that range, though, hfe varies considerably. It
usually falls off as the collector current approaches the transistor’s maximum, and can sometimes drop off a little at
very low currents, although some transistors maintain their
mid-current hfe down to basically leakage current levels.
Many other transistor performance parameters exist.
Some of the most useful are maximum collector-emitter
voltage, collector current and power (dissipation), Vce
(the collector-emitter saturation voltage), the transition
frequency (Ft), input resistance and capacitance, output
Fig.62: three different ways to use a PNP transistor as an amplifier. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Commonbase has the best high-frequency performance but a low input impedance and low current gain. Common-emitter has the
highest power gain but suffers from feedback capacitance. Common-collector (emitter-follower) provides a high current
gain but low voltage gain.
38
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resistance and capacitance & feedback resistance and capacitance. Some of these depend on the circuit configuration.
Transistor circuit configurations
The first circuit generally used was common base, shown
in Fig.62(a). The signal is coupled to the emitter, the output comes from the collector and the base is held at a
constant bias voltage. This was, and still is, used to give
maximum gain at the upper end of a transistor’s frequency
capabilities, as with thermionic triodes in grounded grid
configuration.
Notice that the example circuit uses transformer coupling to match the transistor’s low emitter and collector
impedances.
Shown in Fig.62(b), common-emitter gives the highest
power gain with moderately high input impedance. As
with thermionic triodes in common cathode, it’s the most
commonly-used configuration.
Common collector, Fig.62(c) is like common anode/
cathode follower for thermionic triodes. This gives very
high input impedance and very low output impedance,
useful for driving low-impedance loads.
Table 1 summarises the performance of small-signal
transistors in these three configurations.
The upside-down world
Fig.62 is drawn using PNP transistors. NPN is the structure of preference for very high and ultra-high frequencies, and for high powers; electrons travel more quickly
than holes throughout the transistor. The configurations
for an NPN transistor would be identical but with the
voltages inverted.
PNP-NPN combinations (complementary designs) are
common in transformerless power output stages.
Mosfets and JFETs are also available in complementary designs, and are used similarly to complementary
BJTs. Like BJTs, N-channel Mosfets are closer to ideal
than P-channel.
Using bipolar transistors for gain control
Many valve radios used automatic gain control (AGC)
circuitry to control RF amplifier/converter/IF amplifier
stage gains, allowing full gain when needed to amplify
weak signals, but reducing it to prevent overload with
strong input signals.
This was reverse AGC: a stronger signal would push the
valve to a lower anode current, so the gain was reduced.
Junction transistors had similar characteristics, as
shown in Fig.63, with stage gains dropping to zero at low
currents (in the μA range). Thus, designers applied reverse
AGC to bipolar transistors as had been done with valves,
reducing device current to reduce gain.
However, modern planar transistors have much flatter hfe
vs Ic curves. For example, the BF115 has an hfe of around
150 at 1mA, dropping to only about 50 at 10μA. That is
not enough for any useful gain control, and some newer
transistors such as the BC807 have an essentially flat hfe
curve from about 20mA down into the microamps range.
All transistors show some drop in gain at high collector
currents, so it’s possible to reduce stage gain by pushing
the collector current above the usual operating point. This
is forward gain control, where a stronger signal increases
the device current to reduce stage gain. Like the availability of PNP-NPN complements, it’s another fundamental
difference between valves and planar transistors.
So for planar transistors, gain control is usually implemented using forward gain control. In other words, the
DC bias is increased until the hfe drops. Lower-current
transistors or specially-designed transistors exaggerate
this effect, so are very useful for gain-control applications.
For example, the BF167 is specified for forward AGC.
It has a transducer gain of some +28dB at low collector
currents, dropping to around -32dB at a high collector
current. That means that, used in a radio, they can give
an AGC control range of 60dB in one stage (see Fig.64).
The more traditional (reversed) method struggles to better 30dB gain control per stage.
Factors limiting performance
With valves, the ‘flight time’ between cathode and anode
(transit time) sets an absolute limit to operating frequency.
Extremes of triode valve technology, with cathode-anode
spacings in the sub-millimetre range, reach their limits at
about 5GHz.
We would like the transistor to be perfect: a simple
input resistance (rb) and an output current generator with
Fig.64: planar
transistors don’t
suffer from such
a large hfe drop
at low currents
as junction
transistors (if at
all). So forward
gain control is
used, reducing
the stage gain
by increasing
the collector
current.
Fig.63: the dB gain of a junction transistor as a function of
its DC collector current. Like valves, junction transistors
can have their gain reduced by dropping the bias current
below the optimum value.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 39
Transistor Family Tree
Metal Semiconductor
All-Semiconductor
Point Contact
Junction
Diffused
Micro-Alloy
Grown Junction
Drift-Field Base
Micro-Alloy Diffused
Alloyed Junction
Alloy-Diffused
This family tree serves to demystify the history of semiconductors and how they developed
as one fabrication method superseded another.
a current (β × ib) directly proportional to the input current.
The output should appear as a current generator shunted
by the output resistance (rc).
The output resistance is very high because the transistor
draws a nearly constant current regardless of the collector
voltage. Similarly, its signal output current is nearly independent of the load resistance. Combining these elements,
Fig.65 is pretty much the same as a simplified model of
the tetrode/pentode valve.
Could transistors, with their micrometre-wide base
regions, also suffer from transit time effects?
Yes. There are two principal effects even at relatively
low frequencies. Firstly, unlike valves, transistors have
no powerful accelerating field to sweep charge carriers
across the entire device. Once charge carriers enter the
base region and form a space charge, they only move by
diffusion, a slow process.
Very narrow base regions help to reduce diffusion
times, yet these remain finite, rather like the transit time
in a valve.
Secondly, and more frustratingly, reducing diffusion
times by using a very thin base gives a fairly high spreading resistance from the contact side across to the other
extreme of the base. This comes from two factors: the base
is very thin, and it has quite low doping compared to the
emitter and collector regions.
Any thin conductor will have high resistance, and a poor
conductor (the result of low base doping) compounds the
problem. This is rbb, the base spreading resistance. This is
not simply the base lead resistance, it’s in the base itself, so
it’s impossible to eliminate rbb – it can only be minimised.
Unlike the valve’s grid, where one can expect any voltage
Fig.65: a very
straightforward
model of the
bipolar transistor
– this is how
we’d like an
ideal bipolar transistor to
behave, but in reality, they
are not this simple.
40
Silicon Chip
Multi-Diffusion
Mesa
Planar
Epitaxial Epitaxial
Mesa
Planar
change on the connecting terminal to appear almost instantaneously at every point across the entire grid, there can
be a significant time lag across the expanse of a transistor’s base at radio frequencies.
Complicating this, the considerable base-emitter capacitance must be charged and discharged by the base voltage.
The base spreading resistance limits the maximum charge/
discharge rate of the base as a whole, and thus contributes
to limiting high-frequency performance.
We can now create a more realistic common-emitter
transistor model, shown in Fig.66. The input is partly
composed of the internal base-emitter resistance (rb’e), the
result of bias voltage and base current. But there is also
the base spreading resistance (rbb), and the base-emitter
capacitance (ce).
This last feature seems odd. The base-emitter is forward-
biased and should surely appear as a resistance. Why do
we appear to have a capacitance? This is due to complex
hole (or electron) generation in the base and emitter areas
and the hole-electron recombinations. These effects can
be described mathematically, and the maths reduces to a
non-resistive, reactive component: capacitance.
This can be over 400pF, as the data for the OC44 germanium transistor shows.
The output circuit is more like our expectations: the
current generator (β × ib) is shunted by the transistor’s
high output resistance (rc) and its output capacitance (cc).
Finally, we must expect some collector-base feedback.
This is essentially capacitive, but transit time effects
change it according to frequency. For an AF118, the phase
Fig.66: a more
comprehensive
transistor model,
including the
parasitic resistances
and capacitances
that limit their
performance.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
99mm
193mm
Fig.67: ‘pallet’ amplifiers like this are used for high-power
RF transmitters. This board uses two Ampleon BLF989
900W RF Mosfets to provide 1000W of peak analog power
for digital TV broadcasts at 470-705MHz (the Mosfets are
rated to 860MHz). The voltage gain is 19dB and the cost is
~US$1200. Source: https://broadcastconcepts.com/180wuhf-digital-400w-analog-tv-pallet-amplifier.html
angle (in common-emitter configuration) ranges from the
expected 270° at 455kHz to around 210° at 100MHz. The
complex nature is represented by rb’c and cb’c.
We might have expected the tiny dimensions of transistor construction to free us from the tyranny of high-
frequency limits. Alas, not so. Recent developments, however, have yielded transistors with impressively high frequency limits, in the hundreds of gigahertz; frequencies
simply impossible with triode valves.
High power and frequency?
Returning to the field-effect transistor, its conducting
channel does provide an accelerating field for charge carriers. This ‘valve-like’ characteristic allows FETs to be the
device-of-choice at ultra-high and microwave frequencies.
Gallium arsenide (GaAs) FETs can easily give noise figures of 0.2dB at 432MHz, a barely measurable contribution to the theoretical minimum noise figure.
Power FETs are used in ‘pallet’ amplifiers of powers up
to around one kilowatt (see Fig.67)! Want more power? Just
put some in parallel. High-power solid-state transmitters
at HF, VHF & UHF do this; a 20kW transmitter might use
twenty individual 1kW pallets, paralleled and combined
to deliver the final output.
Transistor devices have replaced virtually all valve
designs. A few niches, such as megawatt, gigahertz radars
still use the powerful magnetron. But its microwave fellows, such as low-power klystrons and travelling-wave
tubes, are obsolete in new equipment.
That circuit symbol
The semiconductor diode symbol had been in existence
for some time when the transistor was invented, so it made
sense to adopt it. Since the emitter admits current to the
transistor, it was denoted as an arrow that indicated the
direction of current flow.
Engineers accepted conventional current (positive to
negative) as the direction of current flow, so the emitter
arrow obeys this convention. The shape of the circuit symbol represents the physical construction of a point-contact
transistor – see Fig.68(a).
Point-contact devices had become obsolete by the 1960s,
so attempts were made to refashion the symbol to more
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.68: the standard
PNP and NPN
transistor symbols,
shown at the
top, are based
on the physical
configuration
of point-contact
transistors. The
symbols at the
bottom, designed
to look more like a
junction transistor,
never really caught
on even though they
would probably
make circuit
drawings neater.
closely represent the junction transistor, as shown in
Fig.68(b). Wireless World and our own Radio, TV and Hobbies carried the charge, but the rest of the publishing world
did not adopt their more rational and descriptive form.
Interestingly, current mesa and planar transistor technologies have reverted to a physical structure more similar to point-contact technology.
Type numbering
As with valves, US manufacturers took a haphazard
approach to numbering. The Joint Electron Devices Engineering Council (JEDEC) simply numbered junctions: 1N
for diodes, 2N for triode transistors, 3N for the now obsolete junction tetrodes and current dual-gate Mosfets, and
4N for optocouplers.
JEDEC’s 2N series were issued in order of application,
with no indication of function. The 2N1066 is a germanium PNP RF type rated at 240mW, 80V and 120MHz in
a four-wire TO-33 case. The 2N1067 is an NPN silicon
power transistor rated at 5W, 60V and 1.5MHz in a threelead TO-8 package.
Like JEDEC, the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee’s JIS numbers were simply allocated in order of
registration with no indication as to application or voltage/power rating. Frequency ratings and polarity can be
deduced to some extent by the prefix (see Table 2). For
example, the 2SA120 is a high-frequency PNP, akin to a
higher-power OC170, while the 2SD43 is a low-power
NPN audio type.
Australian transistors, either licence-manufactured or
local types, took a bit from everywhere. We have a mess.
The saying goes, “the great thing about standards is that
there are so many to choose from”.
Table 2 – JIS transistor code categories
2SA high-frequency PNP BJTs
2SB audio-frequency PNP BJTs
2SC high-frequency NPN BJTs
2SD audio-frequency NPN BJTs
2SJ
P-channel FETs (both JFETs and Mosfets)
2SK
N-channel FETs (both JFETs and Mosfets)
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 41
• AWA’s licensing from RCA produced many 2N types,
plus their own AS series.
• Ducon licensed from Compagnie Générale de Télégraphie Sans Fil (CSF), producing SFD diodes and SFT
transistors.
• Electronic Industries Ltd (EIL) owned Radio Corporation Pty Ltd, makers of Astor brand radios and TVs, and
Eclipse Radio Pty Ltd, makers of Peter Pan and Monarch
radios. They made semiconductors under their Anodeon
brand: 2N series and their own AT and AX series.
• Devices from, or licensed from, General Electric in
the UK use the GET prefix.
• Fairchild Australia produced 2N series devices and
their own, unique, SE, AX and AY series.
• Early Philips/Mullard devices followed their European parents, adopting O (for ‘no heated cathode’), using
OA for diodes and OC for transistors.
Like the JEDEC series, device numbers were allocated
on demand, running to at least OC977 and with very little indication of device type.
The OC45 is a low-performing version of the OC44 PNP
germanium converter, but the OC16 is a 10W germanium
power transistor.
Between the OC44/45 and OC70/71 junction transistors we find the (then) obsolete OC50/51 point-contact
types. The OC206 is PNP silicon with a cutoff frequency
of 850kHz.
• Standard Telephones and Cables released their own
TS series.
• As with valves, the European Electronic Component
Manufacturers Association (EECA) Pro Electron system
took an organised approach and provided semiconductor type and intended application via the type number.
Notable Australian adopters, Philips and Mullard,
deserve praise for adopting Pro Electron which aids in
decoding those metal and plastic devices that populate
transistor radios.
The first letter shows the type of semiconductor: A for
germanium, B for silicon, C for gallium arsenide (GaAs).
The second letter shows device type (see Table 3), followed either by a three-digit code (such as AF118, BC107
etc), or a third letter (X, Y or Z) and a two-digit code for
professional devices, such as AFY40, BUX84 and BCZ10.
Pro Electron also includes diodes, with the second
letter: A = signal diode, B = varicap diode, X = varactor/
step recovery diode, Y = power diode and Z = zener/
reference diode.
Table 3 – Pro Electron transistor prefixes
AC Germanium small-signal AF transistor
AD Germanium AF power transistor
AF Germanium small-signal RF transistor
AL Germanium RF power transistor
AS Germanium switching transistor
AU Germanium power switching transistor
BC Silicon small-signal transistor (‘general purpose’)
BD Silicon power transistor
BF Silicon RF (high-frequency) BJT or FET
BS Silicon switching transistor (BJT or Mosfet)
BL
Silicon high-frequency, high-power (for
transmitters)
BU
Silicon high-voltage (eg, for CRT horizontal
deflection circuits)
CF GaAs small-signal microwave transistor (MESFET)
CL GaAs microwave power transistor (FET)
This series is extracted from Chapters 1 to 4 of How
Your Transistor Radio Works by Ian Batty. The remaining nine chapters cover transistor receivers – from biasing
and power supplies, through converters, RF/IF amplifiers
and demodulation, audio amplifiers, to detailed analysis
of actual circuits, including AM/FM radios.
How Your Transistor Radio Works contains 102 pages
of valuable information in the one volume – you won’t
find a better combination of basic theory and practical
circuit description anywhere. It’s available through the
HRSA’s Valve Bank at the very reasonable price of $20.00
(plus postage).
Visit https://hrsa.org.au/training-manuals/ to order this
and other fine HRSA books. Joining the HRSA gives you
access to our Valve Bank, and you’ll get our quarterly magazine, Radio Waves with 60 pages packed full with everything from Marconi radios and restorations of Australian
classics to helpful contacts around Australia.
And while you’re there, consider Ian’s previous How
Your Radio Works, which covers similar topics in the Valve
Universe. At only $12.00 (plus postage), it’s a must have
for any restorer of valve radios from TRF sets to modern
SC
superhets.
Raspberry Pi Pico BackPack
With the Raspberry Pi Pico at its core, and fitted with a 3.5inch touchscreen. It's easy-to-build and can be programmed in
BASIC, C or MicroPython. There's also room to fit a real-time
clock IC, making it a good general-purpose computer.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$80 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6075)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6075
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the March 2022 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15236
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
By Charles Kosina
∎ Output Frequency: 100kHz to 75MHz in 1Hz steps
∎ Frequency Accuracy: ±0.1Hz immediately after
calibration against a precise standard
∎ Output Level: 0dBm +0,-0.5dB 100kHz to 55MHz;
+0,-3dB 55-75MHz
∎ Modulation: none, AM or FM
∎ AM: 50Hz-10kHz, 50% modulation
∎ FM: 50Hz-1kHz; 2.5kHz, 5kHz or 10kHz
deviation
∎ 5V, 140mA power supply
∎ Digital frequency readout
∎ low RF leakage
Precision
AM-FM DDS
Signal Generator
This signal generator aims to provide very high calibrated accuracy with an
error of just ten parts in a billion (108), which translates to 0.1Hz at 10MHz. It
also has plenty of features, including amplitude and frequency modulation.
N
umerous cheap signal generators are available online but their
accuracy leaves a lot to be desired.
So I decided that if I wanted to have
a maximum error of 0.1Hz at 10MHz,
which would be ideal, I would have
to design one.
The first decision I had to make was
what I wanted it to look like. This
would determine the type of enclosure
needed, the display and the controls.
With the current worldwide shortage
of many components, choosing these
parts can be difficult. There is no
escaping the fact that most advanced
components are only available in
surface-
mount packages, some with
very small lead pitch.
Good shielding is essential for a signal generator. You want the signal to
be via the output connector and not
radiated from the device itself. For
this reason, I chose a diecast aluminium box with a minimum number of
apertures that need to be cut. The largest of these is for the display, and by
using a small OLED module, RF leakage is cut down substantially.
Next, I had to decide whether to use
siliconchip.com.au
ready-made modules or individual
parts. Let’s take the frequency generating chip, the Analog Devices AD9851.
This is available on a prebuilt module
with its own clock generator and output filtering.
Those have several problems, starting with the crystal oscillator module,
which is just a standard cheap 30MHz
unit. The accuracy and temperature
stability is dubious and does not fit
my design criteria.
Yes, you can remove it and add a
wire link to an accurate temperature-
compensated crystal oscillator (TCXO)
on the main board. Applying amplitude modulation requires access to
the RSET pin on the AD9851 chip,
meaning another wire link to the main
board.
The type of output I want to use
requires a wideband transformer from
two pins on the DDS chip. This is now
getting into the too hard category and
is the final reason for rejecting the prebuilt module.
The cheapest Arduino modules
mostly use an ATMega328 chip running at 16MHz. All the I/O pins are
Australia's electronics magazine
brought out, so there are no changes
needed. But with my design, the
number of pins available from the
ATmega328 are inadequate, so a fancy
pin-sharing arrangement would be
necessary.
Also, much processing is needed to
apply frequency modulation, and the
16MHz clock speed is marginal for
this. So instead, I am using a 44-pin
ATmega644. This gives me more than
enough I/O pins and I can arrange for
it to run at 20MHz for a 25% boost in
processing power.
The display needs to convey lots of
information, but a large screen is ruled
out by the need for a small cutout to
give low RF leakage. That’s why I chose
a 0.96in (24mm) diagonal OLED. It
does have rather small characters, but
conveys all the needed information.
By eliminating ready-made modules, the final PCB size (and thus
enclosure required) is much smaller.
Diecast boxes are expensive, so using
the smaller one makes it considerably
cheaper.
The final major component needed
is another DDS chip, the AD9833. This
May 2022 43
Fig.1: the signal generator circuit is based on three main chips: IC1, the AD9833 DDS that’s used for the AM signal;
IC2, the ATmega644 microcontroller; and IC3, the AD9851 DDS that produces the output signal. IC3 is clocked by the
high-precision 30MHz TCXO, while IC1 & IC2 are both clocked by the same 20MHz crystal (X1) driven by IC2’s internal
amplifier. Microcontroller IC2 also monitors user controls EN1, VR1 & VR2.
comes only in a tiny 10-pin MSOP
package but it is available on a small,
ready-made module. I was tempted to
use such a module in my design, and
could have fitted it in, but I did not
want yet another oscillator running in
the unit (the module has an onboard
25MHz oscillator).
44
Silicon Chip
So I am just using the bare chip. It
gets its 20MHz clock source from the
clock output pin on the ATmega644
processor.
Component Selection
Given the present severe shortage of electronic components, I paid
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particular attention to being able to
source parts from several suppliers.
The AD9851 DDS chip is available
from several suppliers on AliExpress
for about US$14 (around $20) delivered. The AD9833 DDS chip is also
available for about US$3.50 ($5) from
numerous AliExpress sellers.
siliconchip.com.au
If you want to stick to a more reputable supplier, Digi-Key has the
AD9851 for $56.76 and the AD9833
for $14.95.
The ATmega644 chip is another
matter. I could only find one supplier
on AliExpress who charged US$2.05
each plus US$5.26 shipping, for a
total of around $11. Similarly, I could
only find one supplier on eBay with
a ridiculously high price. But Silicon
Chip will have these chips available
pre-programmed. Wherever you get
it, make sure it’s the 20MHz, 44-pin
TQFP variant.
The 30MHz TCXO is best obtained
from AliExpress, and the delivered
price is about $15. I have found none
suitable at Mouser, Digi-Key or element14.
The OLED is a 0.96in, 128 x 64
pixel type with the SSD1306 controller. There are multiple suppliers for
this, and it comes in different colours.
The one I have has the top quarter yellow and the rest blue, and this highlights the set frequency, but you can
choose whatever colour combination
pleases you.
Likewise, the potentiometers and
the encoder are standard items. Make
sure that they are the same size. The
distance from the PCB to the end of the
shaft should be about 25mm.
That leaves the magnetic components. The output transformer is made
by Coilcraft, with the PWB-16-BL giving the best result.
siliconchip.com.au
M3216/1206-size chip inductors are
suitable for the remaining inductors.
These have pretty close tolerances, far
better than trying to wind your own.
At 85MHz, the low-pass filter (LPF)
for the RF output needs three 120nH
coils. These are readily available at
element14, although they can also be
sourced from AliExpress. I paid $2.80
for 100, with free postage, and by some
miracle, they arrived from China in
two weeks.
The rest of the components are standard resistors and capacitors, almost
all in the standard M2012/0805 SMD
size. The toggle switches can be bought
from Jaycar and Altronics, as can the
diecast box. The full parts list will
come later in this article.
Circuit details
The complete circuit is shown in
Fig.1. The microcontroller IC1 drives
the two Analog Devices direct digital
synthesis (DDS) chips. The AD9851
(IC3) generates frequencies from
100kHz to 75MHz, while the second
DDS chip (IC1, AD9833) provides the
amplitude modulation (AM) from
50Hz to 10kHz. The SSD1306 OLED
screen (OLED1) shows the current
status.
The reference clock for the AD9851
is a 30MHz TCXO which is multiplied
by the AD9851 to 180MHz.
The output frequency is adjusted by
an incremental shaft encoder (EN1)
in steps set by its integral pushbutton
Australia's electronics magazine
switch. Pressing it cycles through step
sizes from 1Hz to 1MHz.
Potentiometers VR1 and VR2 are
connected to two of IC2’s analog
inputs. One sets the modulating frequency for both AM and FM. Rather
than have a continuous range of frequencies, I instead opted for 11 separate frequencies. The other adjusts the
FM deviation and also for calibration.
Three-position toggle switch S2 selects
between AM, CW and FM.
Almost everything that I design
includes a simplified RS232 serial port
using transistors Q2 and Q3. I find this
an invaluable tool for debugging while
developing the code. It could also be
used for controlling the unit from a PC
as part of a future upgrade.
The two DAC outputs from the
AD9851 are connected to centre-
tapped RF transformer T1, which has
a 7th-order Chebyshev low-pass filter
connected to its secondary to reduce
harmonics and spurs.
With a clock frequency of 180MHz,
it is possible to generate frequencies
up to the Nyquist limit of 90MHz, but
the waveform is extremely distorted by
then. I set the limit at 75MHz and, with
the output filter, it does not contain
too many spurs even at that frequency.
The unit draws 140mA from a 5V
DC supply. I find that a mobile phone
charger is ideal for powering it. I must
have at least ten of these; I am sure
most people have lots of spares.
As mentioned earlier, the whole
May 2022 45
thing fits in a standard diecast box,
making it quite robust and providing
good shielding.
Tuning
The shaft encoder used to adjust
the output frequency is available from
numerous suppliers on eBay and AliExpress as well as Digi-Key, Mouser,
element14 and others. They come
in different shaft lengths and prices;
choose one with a 20mm shaft length.
I have added pull-up resistors on all
the pins. There are weak internal pullups in IC2, but I have found the lower
value external resistors plus capacitors
to ground (for contact bounce filtering)
give far more reliable operation.
You want the frequency to increase
when you wind the knob clockwise
but depending on the shaft encoder, it
can operate either way. To solve this,
a jumper placed between pins 4 & 6 of
the programming header will reverse
the encoder direction.
The firmware detects this by
enabling a pull-up and checking the
level on the MOSI SPI programming
pin (PB5, pin 1 of IC2). With the
jumper on, this pin is low; otherwise,
it is high. The interrupt handler tests
the state of the PB5 and selects the
rotation direction based on this.
With a range of 100kHz to 75MHz,
you don’t want to turn the knob millions of times to set the frequency. This
is where its integral pushbutton switch
comes into use. Pressing it cycles
through step sizes of 1Hz, 100Hz,
1kHz, 10kHz, 100kHz and 1MHz.
0.1Hz at 10MHz. More on this later.
The FTW can be loaded into the
AD9851 using serial or parallel methods. Serial loading takes far too much
time and would make FM virtually
impossible. Hence, I’m using parallel
loading with five bytes transferred: one
control byte plus four for the FTW (4
× 8 = 32 bits).
You can see in the circuit diagram
that I have split this up into four bits
from two separate ports on microcontroller IC2.
I did this because I can’t use all of
Port A as I need two analog inputs,
and the only available analog inputs
are on Port A. Port B has the 20MHz
clock output required by the AD9833
(PB1), so that’s ruled out. Port C has
dedicated SDA and SCL pins for the
I2C interface to the OLED, and I want
to use INT0 and INT1 on port D for the
shaft encoder.
Therefore, I couldn’t dedicate all
eight lines of one port for loading the
FTW. So I split up the parallel interface into four bits from Ports C and D.
The extra few lines of code required
to do this don’t slow things down very
much. Once the byte is set up, it is
clocked in by the WCLK pin, and after
all five bytes have been sent, the FQUD
pin is pulsed to update the AD9851’s
internal latch.
RF output
There are two outputs from the DAC
(digital-to-analog converter) on the
AD9851. Application note AN-423
from Analog Devices suggests using a
wideband transformer to couple these
two outputs to the external load. This
makes for clean amplitude modulation
(AM), also described in the note.
The transformer in their example
is 1:1 centre tapped, which for a 50W
load, reflects 25W to the DAC outputs.
I used a Coilcraft transformer with
this ratio and found it to be most unsatisfactory. The 25W load on the DAC
outputs is far too low in impedance;
it reduced the output levels, and the
waveform became very noisy. I feel
that specifying such a transformer is
an error.
Experimenting with other Coilcraft
transformers, I found the best results
were with the PWB-16-BL with a 16:1
impedance ratio that reflects 400W to
each DAC output; a far more satisfactory value. The transformer -3dB bandwidth is 75kHz to 90MHz, so there is
a slight drop in level at 100kHz and
75MHz. This gave me an output close
to 0dBm over much of the range (Fig.2).
Output Filter
Without a low-pass filter on the
output, there will be many undesirable harmonics and spurs. While it
is feasible to use some of these spurs
for frequencies well above the Nyquist
limit, for simplicity, I decided not to
use this approach.
Filter design is so easy these days.
Rather than ploughing through some
complex s-parameter mathematics,
there are online calculators. The one
I used to work out the C and L values
for a 7th-order Chebyshev low-pass
AD9851 interface
The AD9851 has a 32-bit Frequency
Tuning Word (FTW) that controls the
output frequency. There is a handy
online tool for calculating the required
value at siliconchip.com.au/link/abc8
For a 1MHz output, FTW =
23860929, which is 16C16C1 in
hexadecimal. The actual frequency
with this FTW is 999.999982305kHz,
an error of about 0.02Hz. But this
assumes that the TCXO is exactly
30.000000MHz. The ones that I have
bought from AliExpress have been
within about 10Hz.
Is that good enough? It depends on
your application, but with some of
the digital communication techniques
used, an error of just a few hertz can
make message decoding impossible.
So I developed a calibration technique
that reduces this error to less than
46
Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the Signal Generator’s output level varies by about 1/4dB between 100kHz
and 55MHz, except for a dip at -1/2dB between about 10MHz and 22MHz. It’s
usable up to 75MHz, although the level drops considerably above 55MHz,
reaching nearly -3dB at 70MHz.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: here’s what the 100kHz output signal looks like with
5kHz AM (yellow). The AM signal output from the AD9833
is shown below (cyan).
filter with 85MHz cutoff and 0.5dB
passband ripple is at https://rf-tools.
com/lc-filter/
The output of this calculator can
be exact or standard values; the difference in performance between the
two is minimal. The choice of inductors was discussed above in the component selection section.
Amplitude modulation
The ATmega644 processor (IC2)
could generate amplitude modulation,
but why bother with the complicated
coding involved when we can use a
second low-cost DDS chip instead?
The AD9833 (IC1) can run at clock
speeds of up to 25MHz. It is a tiny
10-pin chip with a three-wire serial
control interface.
Rather than having a separate clock
generator, I use the 20MHz clock out
pin on PB1 (pin 41) of IC1. The output
of the AD9833 is applied to the gate of
Mosfet Q1 via a 10kW trimpot, and this
controls the RSET pin on the AD9851
as per the aforementioned application
note AN-423. Rather than having a separate knob on the front panel, I preset
the modulation level to about 50%.
Potentiometer VR1 sets the modulation frequency. The voltage read using
the 10-bit analog-to-digital converter
(ADC) in IC2 is converted by software
into the tuning word required by the
AD9833.
I could have had a continuous range
but found that setting the frequencies
was very fiddly. I decided instead
on dividing the ADC reading into 11
distinct values: 50Hz, 100Hz, 200Hz,
400Hz, 1kHz, 2kHz, 3kHz, 5kHz, 6kHz,
8kHz and 10kHz.
Fig.3 shows a 100kHz generated
signal with 50%, 5kHz amplitude
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: as expected, the spectrum of the signal from Fig.3 has
a single prominent peak at 100kHz with two smaller peaks,
5kHz on either side (ie, at 95kHz and 105kHz).
modulation on channel 1, with the
sinewave modulation signal on channel 2. The spectrum of this signal is
shown in Fig.4.
Frequency modulation
Applying FM proved to be the trickiest part of the design. To approximate a sinewave, we have to change
the AD9851 output frequency continuously. This sinewave is divided
into 24 samples, each 15° apart. Taking the sine of that angle and multiplying it by the maximum deviation
gives the instantaneous deviation for
that sample.
For example, if the maximum deviation is 3kHz, sin(30°) = 0.5, so we add a
value to the FTW equivalent to 1.5kHz
(3kHz x 0.5). The numbers become
negative past 180° and subtract from
the frequency. This takes quite a bit of
processor time; so much that the maximum modulation frequency possible
is 1000Hz.
At this frequency, the micro’s timer
generates 24,000 interrupts per second, and each triggers a new FTW
value to be calculated and sent. For
other modulation frequencies, the
timer interrupt is 24 times the modulation frequency. See Table 1 for the
values that are added and subtracted
to the FTW to give ±2.5kHz deviation.
The available modulation frequencies are 50Hz, 100Hz, 200Hz, 400Hz,
500Hz, 600Hz, 700Hz, 800Hz, 900Hz
and 1kHz.
There are ways of getting a higher
modulation frequency. If we can stand
having a rougher sinewave, we could
have samples 30° apart, which would
allow a maximum frequency of 2kHz.
The spectrum of an FM signal is far
more complex; advanced mathematics
is needed to derive it. It has sidebands
that go on forever, but their amplitude
decreases rapidly so that only the first
few are important. For more details
visit: https://w.wiki/4eC$
Table 1 – frequency modulation FTW offsets for ±2.5kHz deviation
angle θ sin(θ)
Δf (Hz) ΔFTW
angle θ sin(θ)
Δf (Hz) ΔFTW
0°
0
0
0
180°
0
0
0
15°
0.259
647
15,437
195°
-0.259
-647
-15,437
30°
0.500
1250
29,825
210°
-0.500
-1250
-29,825
45°
0.707
1767
42,160
225°
-0.707
-1767
-42,160
60°
0.877
2192
52,301
240°
-0.877
-2192
-52,301
75°
0.966
2415
57,622
255°
-0.966
-2415
-57,622
90°
1.000
2500
59,650
270°
-1.000
-2500
-59,650
105°
0.966
2415
57,622
285°
-0.966
-2415
-57,622
120°
0.877
2192
52,301
300°
-0.877
-2192
-52,301
135°
0.707
1767
42,160
315°
-0.707
-1767
-42,160
150°
0.500
1250
29,825
330°
-0.500
-1250
-29,825
165°
0.259
647
15,437
345°
-0.259
-647
-15,437
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 47
Display
Screen 1: this shows the screen layout
during normal operation. The output
frequency (in Hz) is at the top, the step
size and FM deviation on the second
line and the amplitude and frequency
modulation signal frequencies on the
last two lines.
Screen 2: calibration mode is entered
by rotating the Function knob fully
clockwise; the bottom two lines of
the display change, with the last line
showing the FTW. If you have the
right gear, you can get the output
frequency within 0.1Hz.
The OLED module has an SSD1306
controller and a resolution of 128 x
64 pixels.
My original design used an 8 x 8
font which gave eight lines each of 16
characters. This allowed for a fair bit of
information to be displayed but with
rather tiny characters. I changed it to
a 16 x 16 font, which is much easier
to read, but this gives only four lines
of eight characters. So I had to considerably simplify what is displayed.
Screen 1 shows the unit’s normal
display. The top line readout is the frequency in Hz, while the second has the
frequency adjustment step size. Line
3 shows the AM frequency, one of 11
fixed frequencies from 50Hz to 10kHz.
Line 4 shows the FM frequency, which
steps through 11 fixed settings from
50Hz to 1kHz.
With the Function knob fully clockwise, the unit enters calibration mode,
shown in Screen 2. The modulation
frequencies are replaced with line 3
showing “Calib” and line 4 showing
the Frequency Tuning Word (FTW).
The calibration procedure is explained
later in the article.
Power supply
Fig.5: use this PCB overlay diagram to help with board assembly. Remember to
link out REG1 and note that Q2, Q3, and associated 15kW & 1kW resistors are
only needed if you will use the serial debugging interface. Make sure that the
three ICs, D1, REG2, T1, TCXO1 and VR1 are orientated as shown. Note that the
orientation of REG2 is swapped in the prototype, this is because regulator that
was used has a different pinout than the one specified in the parts list.
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Many readers would have numerous
mobile phone chargers lying around,
left over from generations of phones.
Most of them deliver a nominal 5V at
up to 2A. The maximum current drawn
by the Generator is about 140mA, well
within the capability of all chargers.
I included a schottky diode in the
design as reverse polarity protection.
This drops the supply voltage by about
0.37V. The charger that I used had
an output of 5.2V, dropping to 4.85V
through the diode. It’s a simple matter of cutting off the connector on the
cable and replacing it with a DC barrel plug to suit your DC socket (either
2.1mm or 2.5mm inner pin diameter).
The PCB design includes another
regulator, REG1, so that a higher supply voltage could be used. However,
this is probably not necessary, so it’s
just linked out in the final design.
I have connected another DC socket,
CON6, in parallel with CON5. This is
for powering the companion Attenuator, to be described in a future article.
The OLED requires 3.3V, and this is
supplied by a TO-92 low-dropout linear regulator, which draws from the 5V
supply. The open-drain SDA and SCL
pins for driving the OLED are pulled
siliconchip.com.au
up to 3.3V by a pair of 4.7kW resistors.
Construction
The Signal Generator is built on a
double-sided PCB coded CSE211002
that measures 100 x 78.5mm. Refer to
the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.5, as a
guide during construction. It shows
which components go where.
Most of the parts on the PCB are
surface-mounting types, and two of
them are very fine-pitch ICs. These are
the two DDS chips, and you should
start with these. Soldering them
accurately and without short circuits
between the pins takes some skill.
It helps to spread a little flux paste
on the pads before placing the ICs and
ensure they are aligned with their pads
on both sides after tacking the first pin
and before soldering any others. Also,
be careful to check that their pin 1s
are located correctly before soldering
more than one pin!
Rather than trying to solder the pins
without bridges, concentrate on making sure that each pin gets enough solder and that it flows down onto the
corresponding PCB pad. Try to avoid
getting any solder high up on the pins,
where it is harder to fix bridges.
After soldering all the pins, it’s
then just a matter of spreading some
more flux paste over them and carefully using a length of solder wick to
remove any excess solder, including
that which might be bridging adjacent
pins. Clean off the flux residue with
some flux cleaner or alcohol, then
inspect the IC leads to make sure all
the solder joints look good and there
are no remaining bridges.
If you find anything that looks suspect, add a dab of flux paste, heat the
offending pin(s) and use solder wick
if necessary. Repeat this process as
many times as needed until you have
nicely soldered ICs.
Following these, mount the
ATmega644 chip (with wider pin
spacings than the first two, but pins
on four sides), again being careful with
its pin 1 orientation, followed by all
the other SMD components. The orientation of SMD transformer T1 also
matters. Then give the board a good
clean to remove flux residue.
Now fit the through-hole parts from
lowest profile to tallest. Be careful to
orientate diode D1, the TCXO, VR3,
and REG2 as shown. Don't forget the
wire link across REG1, which can be
made from a component lead off-cut.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – AM-FM DDS Signal Generator
1 double-sided plated-through PCB coded CSE211002, 100 x 78.5mm
1 diecast aluminium enclosure, 119 x 93.5 x 34mm [Jaycar HB5067 or
Altronics H0454]
1 0.96in OLED display module with I2C interface and SSD1306 controller
(OLED1)
1 mechanical rotary encoder with integrated pushbutton switch and 20mm
total height (RE1) [Bourns PEC11R-4215F-S0024]
2 10kW PCB-mount vertical 10mm 20mm-tall linear potentiometers (VR1,
VR2) [Alpine RK09K1130AH1]
1 10kW side-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR3) [Altronics R2361]
1 large knob to suit RE1
2 medium knobs to suit VR1 & VR2
1 20MHz 18pF 30ppm crystal resonator, HC-49 (X1)
1 30MHz 20 x 12mm TCXO module (TCXO1)
[aliexpress.com/item/32719087266.html]
1 Coilcraft PWB-16-BL SMD wideband transformer (T1)
3 Coilcraft 1206CS-121XJEC 120nH chip inductors or equivalent,
M3216/1206 size (L1-L3)
1 3x2 pin header, 2.54mm pitch (ICSP) (optional; for programming IC1)
1 2-pin polarised locking header with matching plug, 2.54mm pitch (CON1)
1 3-pin polarised header with matching plug, 2.54mm pitch (optional; CON3)
1 panel-mount BNC socket (CON4)
2 panel-mount DC barrel sockets (CON5, CON6)
1 4-way female header socket (for OLED1)
1 SPDT panel-mount switch (S1) [Altronics S1310]
1 SPDT panel-mount centre-off switch (S2) [Altronics S1330]
1 tactile pushbutton switch (S3)
4 12mm-long M3 tapped metal spacers
2 10mm untapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 x 8mm countersunk head machine screws
2 M2 x 12mm panhead machine screws and nuts
4 M3 flat washers
Semiconductors
1 AD9833 12.5MHz DDS generator, MSOP-10 (IC1)
1 20MHz ATmega644 microcontroller in TQFP-44 (eg, ATMEGA644PA-AN or
ATMEGA644PA-AU) programmed with CSE21100A.hex (IC2)
1 AD9851BRS 180MHz DDS generator, SSOP-28 (IC3)
1 LP2950CZ-3.3 3.3V low-dropout linear voltage regulator, TO-92 (REG2)
3 2N7002 60V 2A N-channel 3.3V drive Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q1-Q3)
1 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diode (D1)
Capacitors (all SMD M2012/0805 size unless otherwise stated)
1 100μF 6.3V X5R ceramic, M3216/1206 size
3 10μF 6.3V X5R ceramic
1 220nF 50V X7R ceramic
10 100nF 50V X7R ceramic
2 10nF 50V X7R ceramic
2 100pF 50V NP0/C0G ceramic
2 68pF 50V NP0/C0G ceramic
2 22pF 50V NP0/C0G ceramic
Resistors (all SMD M2012/0805 size 1% thick film unless otherwise stated)
6 27kW
2 15kW
ERRATA: the gate bias for Mosfet Q1 is fixed at 1.5V, which
might not suit all 2N7002 devices. If there is no output from
2 4.7kW
IC3, the bias might be too low, in which case the 3.3kW
1 3.9kW
resistor can be changed to 4.7kW (1.8V) or 6.2kW (2.0V). If
1 3.3kW
there is output from IC3, but the modulation is weak, the bias
1 1.5kW
might be too high, in which case the 3.3kW resistor can be
1 1kW
changed to 1.8kW (1.05V).
1 51W
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 49
You can safely omit Q2, Q3, the two
adjacent resistors and CON3. These are
the simplified RS232 interface and are
used as a debugging aid.
The OLED screen plugs into a fourpin socket strip and is held in place
by two screws and standoffs. Rather
than cutting down an 8-pin strip that
I already had, I just removed four pins.
Depending on the OLED, the mounting holes may be either 2mm or 2.5mm
in diameter. While M2 screws are not
as easy to find as M3, I bought some
from eBay. Some larger online electronics retailers also stock M2 screws
and nuts. Don’t try to drill the holes
out on the OLED to bigger screw sizes!
There are four screw holes provided
but two are adequate.
The potentiometers and encoder
should be installed last, after cleaning off any flux residue on the board.
Preparing the case
The adjacent photo shows the
diecast box with the board already
mounted in the base. The positions
of the required holes are shown in
the drilling and cutting template/
guide, Fig.6.
The raw aluminium is not very
attractive, so I sprayed it with three
coats of matte black paint. I used the
blank circuit board as a template to
accurately drill the mounting holes
and the holes for the control shafts.
There are small holes on the PCB
in the centre of the controls for this
purpose.
Once the PCB has been mounted in the case and the wire to the BNC socket
soldered, all you need to do is wire up and plug in the DC socket. You only need
one, as shown here, but if you’re thinking of building the upcoming matching
attenuator, add a second socket in parallel so you can daisy-chain the power.
It takes a bit of care to make the
rectangular cutout. There are various
ways of doing it. If you have a milling machine, that’s great, but very few
readers would possess one. I started
by drilling a circular hole of 25mm
diameter centred on the rectangle with
a step drill. Then I filed it out into the
required 26 x 28mm rectangle. It takes
a bit of time but results in a neat finish.
You will also need to drill two
holes in the side of the base, near the
lid, to accept the barrel sockets. Make
sure they are placed so that they will
not foul the PCB assembly once it’s
dropped in. You might also want to
drill a hole in the side so that you
can access VR3 (the AM depth adjustment trimpot) once the board has been
mounted in the case.
Fig.6: this template shows the cutouts
on the diecast box. This template can
be downloaded from the Silicon Chip
website and then printed at actual
size. You can also use the blank PCB
to mark the hole positions.
Fig.7: the front panel label for the ►
Precision DDS Signal Generator.
50
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A ‘sneak peak’ at the companion attenuator PCB
that we will describe in an upcoming issue.
The panel label shown in Fig.7 can
be downloaded from the Silicon Chip
website and printed onto photographic
paper. Make the OLED and shaft cutouts with a sharp scalpel or hobby
knife. I cut a piece of 1mm-thick clear
acrylic to 112 x 86 mm to protect the
label, again using the blank PCB as a
template to drill the holes.
Attach the PCB to the front panel
siliconchip.com.au
using 12mm threaded spacers with
countersunk screws on the outside.
Add a washer under each spacer to
slightly increase the distance.
Now it’s time to install the panel-
mount connectors. It turned out to
be too difficult to mount the BNC
connector on the PCB itself. Connect a 50mm length of stiff wire to
the connector and pass this through
Australia's electronics magazine
the centre hole of the BNC connector location on the PCB. Once the
board is attached to the box, cut off
the excess and solder it. To remove
the board, you will have to desolder
this one wire.
After the PCB has been fitted, connect the DC sockets in parallel, then
wire them to the matching plug for
CON1. Make sure the wires are the
right length to reach CON1. Also,
ensure the polarity is correct. You
can check this by testing for continuity between the barrel socket’s tip and
one end of power switch S1, and also
continuity from the outer barrel (with
a plug inserted) to PCB ground.
Apply power and check that everything works before fitting the lid to
the box with the supplied screws.
You should get a sensible display on
the OLED as soon as it’s switched
on. Check that you can adjust all the
parameters with the knobs.
If you run into any problems,
remove the PCB and have a good look
at it. Check that all the solder joints
look good, especially on the SMDs,
and that everything is where it should
be, referring to Fig.5.
Calibration
Without calibration, the accuracy of
the signal generator is entirely dependent on the TCXO. The best calibration
procedure requires a two-channel oscilloscope, a GPS-disciplined 10MHz reference and a high-precision frequency
counter (which might be built into
some higher-end oscilloscopes).
Set the three-position switch to
“CW” and the output frequency to
10000000Hz (10MHz). Rotate the
Function knob fully clockwise and
adjust the tuning knob to get FTW =
23860929. This is the value needed if
the TCXO has an output of precisely
30MHz. If you have no other equipment available, press the tuning button to save that value into EEPROM
and turn the Function knob back a bit.
If you have an accurate frequency
counter, repeat above but adjust the
FTW for exactly 10MHz on the frequency counter, and save it into
EEPROM as before.
For best accuracy, first, adjust the
frequency using the counter as above.
Then connect the GPS disciplined reference 10MHz signal to one channel
of a two-channel oscilloscope, and
trigger on that channel to produce
a stationary display. Set the signal
May 2022 51
A 300kHz signal with
10kHz amplitude
modulation applied,
resulting in smaller
peaks 10kHz on either
side of the carrier
wave.
Here frequency
modulation has
been applied. This
results in many
small peaks of all
sorts of multiples of
modulating waves
either side of the
carrier wave, but this
spectrum analyser
doesn't have the
resolution to separate
them.
generator to 10MHz and connect it to
the other scope channel.
If the frequencies are identical, the
signal generator waveform will be
steady. But this will hardly ever be the
case; it will drift left or right. Set the
Function knob fully clockwise, and
using the tuning knob, adjust the FTW
for minimum drift. Typically, the drift
will take 10 or more seconds across one
complete cycle. The 10 seconds corresponds to an error of 0.1Hz at 10MHz.
Press the frequency button to save
the calibrated FTW value into the
EEPROM.
The calibrated frequency may hold
for several hours depending on temperature fluctuations; the TCXO is by
no means perfect. Do the calibration
just before you want to do any seriously accurate work.
There is a multi-turn trimpot accessible through a hole in the left side of
the case. Setting the amplitude modulation level is best done using an
oscilloscope. Still, if you loosely couple the output to an AM receiver, you
can simply adjust the level for a clear
tone. It will overmodulate and create
lots of spurious and harsh harmonics
if you wind it up too much.
A matching attenuator
Spectral analysis of a
75MHz output signal.
Because of how a DDS
works, you not only
get spurious peaks
at multiples of the
signal frequency but
also at fractions. The
most significant in
this case is at 30MHz,
35dB below the
fundamental.
Given the relatively small enclosure size, it was impractical to fit an
attenuator into the same housing.
There have been various RF attenuators described in Silicon Chip in the
past, but the maximum attenuation
has been about 30dB.
I have designed a separate attenuator in another identical enclosure
with an attenuation range from 1dB to
110dB in 1dB steps. As the output of
the Signal Generator is about 0dBm,
this means the lowest signal level
that the pair can generate is around
-110dBm. The photo on the previous
page shows a preview of the attenuator, to be described in an upcoming
SC
article.
► A 100kHz output signal modulated by
1kHz at 10kHz deviation. This doesn't
show on my digital scope, but my old
analog scope provides this pattern.
52
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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500
POWER
WATTS AMPLIFIER
PART 2
BY JOHN CLARKE
Having described our new 500W Amplifier Module last month, giving its
performance details and describing the circuit, we follow on this month
with the amplifier construction, beginning with the PCB (Amplifier Module)
assembly. Next month, we’ll build this into a complete amplifier along with
fan cooling, a speaker protector and a clipping detector.
T
he 500W Amplifier has
four main components: the
Amplifier Module, its power
supply, the Fan Cooling & Loudspeaker Protector board and the Clipping Indicator board. The last two of
those have already been described in
the January & February issues.
This article will concentrate on the
assembly of the Amplifier Module,
its circuit having been described last
month. Next month, the final article
will detail the power supply, the chassis, and the final assembly and wiring,
bringing all those parts together.
Now let’s move on to building the
all-important Amplifier Module.
siliconchip.com.au
Construction
The 500W Amplifier Module is built
on a double-sided, plated-through PCB
coded 01107021 that measures 402 x
124mm. Refer to Fig.6, the parts layout
diagram during construction.
Before starting, it’s a good idea to
inspect the board carefully. This will
familiarise you with its layout and
reveal any defects (however unlikely
that is).
Start construction by fitting transistors Q1 and Q2. These are small SOT23/TO-236 surface-mounting transistors. They are relatively easy to solder
due to their widely spaced pins, but
you might need the aid of a magnifying
Australia's electronics magazine
glass and strong light if your vision is
not perfect.
First, align Q1 onto the pads, holding it with tweezers, and solder one of
the pins to the PCB. Check that it is
correctly aligned with the other pads,
reheating the solder joint to realign if
necessary. Then solder the remaining
pins. Mount Q2 similarly.
Don’t worry if you add so much
solder that the joints on these SOT-23
parts look like small silver balls. This
is unlikely to cause any problems; we
want to joints to be shiny, and adding
a bit too much solder is better than not
adding enough!
If you feel the need to remove the
May 2022 61
Fig.6: all the parts
for the amplifier
module mount on
this somewhat large
PCB. As usual,
take care with the
orientations of the
transistors, diodes,
LEDs and electrolytic
capacitors and don’t
get similar-looking
parts mixed up.
Note the two wire
links required in the
middle of the board.
You should sleeve
them with insulation
just to be safe.
This overlay is
shown split at
actual size.
excess solder, add a little bit of flux
paste and touch the join with a clean
soldering iron tip.
Now mount the small (1/4W or 1/2W)
resistors. Check each value using a
digital multimeter set to read ohms
before soldering in place. Don’t rely
on the colour bands to determine the
value, as these can be difficult to read
accurately.
62
Silicon Chip
Note that there are two pairs of
resistors labelled R1 and R2 on the
PCB; they don’t have associated values. The nominal values required for
these resistors (which define the SOA
protection curves) are R1 = 35.328kW
and R2 = 204.8W. We can’t get these
exact values, but there are two ways
we can get close.
We can use E96 value resistors, with
Australia's electronics magazine
R1 = 35.7kW (+1%) and R2 = 205W
(+0.1%). That is the easy method, and
if you buy the set of hard-to-get parts
from us, you’ll get the 35.7kW and
205W resistors.
A slightly more precise method
for R1 & R2 is to use paralleled pairs
of resistors, one fitted to the top side
of the PCB as normal, and the other
soldered across the pads underneath
siliconchip.com.au
afterwards. These are 62kW || 82kW for
R1 giving 35.3kW (-0.08%) and 390W ||
430W giving 204.5W for R2 (+0.15%).
We don’t think the +1% error using
35.7kW for R1 matters; the current-
sensing 0.47W resistors have 5% tolerances, and the protection curves have
a built-in safety margin. Still, if you’re
concerned about it, you can use the
parallel pairs instead.
siliconchip.com.au
Fit these resistors now, in the eight
positions, using whichever method
you prefer.
Now install the two small 1N4148
diodes (D1 and D2) with their striped
ends (cathodes) as shown on the overlay diagram and PCB silkscreen. Next,
fit the BAV21 diode (D3) with the cathode facing the same way.
The UF4003 diodes (D4-D7) can go
Australia's electronics magazine
in next. They are not all orientated
the same so check Fig.6 and the PCB
silkscreen.
There are two wire links in the
middle of the PCB above Q7 and Q9.
Make these using 0.7mm diameter
tinned copper wire covered in 1mm
heatshrink tubing over most of their
lengths, leaving just the very ends
exposed.
May 2022 63
L1 Winding Jig
1
2
These photos show how
4
the winding jig is used to
make the 2.2μH inductor.
F
First, the bobbin is
slipped over the collar on
the bolt (1), then an end
cheek is attached and the
wire threaded through the
S
exit slot (2). The handle
is then attached and the
coil tightly wound onto
the bobbin using 13.5
turns of 1.25mm-diameter enamelled copper wire (3).
The finished coil (4) is secured using a couple of layers of
insulation tape and a band of heatshrink tubing.
3
Wind wire on
bobbin clockwise
T
he winding jig consists of a 70mm M5 bolt, two M5
nuts, an M5 flat washer, a piece of scrap PCB material
or similar measuring 40 x 50mm approximately and a scrap
piece of timber (about 140 x 45 x 20mm) for the handle.
In use, the flat washer goes against the bolt’s head,
after which a collar is fitted over the bolt to take the bobbin. This collar should be slightly smaller than the inner
diameter of the bobbin and can be made by winding insulation tape onto the bolt, or from tubing. The collar needs
to be of sufficient diameter for the bobbin to fit snugly
without being too tight.
Drill a 5mm hole through the centre of the scrap PCB
material, plus a 1.5mm exit hole about 8mm away that will
align with one of the slots in the bobbin. The bobbin can
Continue by mounting the 1W resistors, again being careful to check the
values. For the 56W resistors near
speaker connector CON3, four mount
on the top side of the PCB and four on
the underside. The PCB screen printing shows the resistor positions on
both sides.
Fit the small-signal transistors in
TO-92 packages next. These are Q3 and
Q4 (BC546) plus Q5 and Q6 (BC556).
Leave Q25 and Q26 off at the moment,
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Silicon Chip
be slipped over the collar, after which the scrap PCB end
cheek is slipped over the bolt, ie, the bobbin is sandwiched
into position between the washer and the scrap PCB.
Align the bobbin so that one of its slots lines up with
the exit hole in the end cheek, then install the first nut and
secure it tightly. Next, fit the handle by drilling a 5mm hole
through one end, slipping it over the bolt and installing the
second nut.
These photos show how the winding jig is used to make
the 2.2μH inductor.
First, slip the bobbin over the collar on the bolt (1), then
attach the end cheek and thread the wire threaded through
the exit slot (2). Next, attach the handle and wind the coil
tightly onto the bobbin using 13.5 turns of 1.25mm-diameter
enamelled copper wire (3). Finally, secure the finished coil
(4) around the outside using 20mm diameter heatshrink
tubing.
as these need to be mounted against
the heatsink. However, you can fit
the two TL431 references now, also
in TO-92 packages (REF1 and REF2).
Read the device markings carefully,
and be sure to install the correct type
at each location.
The three LEDs are mounted about
5mm off the PCB, taking care to orientate them correctly and using the
green LED for LED1. The longer lead is
the anode, and this position is marked
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with an “A” on the board.
Fit the 75pF 200V capacitor now,
along with the 1nF, 10nF, 100nF, 470nF
and 1μF MKT capacitors. Follow with
trimpot VR1, then VR2 with its adjustment screw towards the bottom of the
board as shown (right edge in Fig.6).
The four M205 fuse clips are next.
Press them down fully onto the board
before soldering and ensure that the
retention clips are on the outside.
The best approach to make sure the
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fuse clips are aligned correctly is to
firstly fit a fuse to hold the fuse clips
in position, then solder to the pads on
the underside of the PCB.
You can now solder in the 12
0.47W 5W resistors. These should be
mounted about 2mm proud of the PCB
so that air can circulate beneath them
for cooling. A cardboard spacer slid
under the resistor bodies before soldering their leads can be used to ensure
consistent spacing.
Now fit the connectors, ie, the RCA
socket (CON1), the two-way socket for
the loudspeaker connection (CON3)
and the 6-way power connector
(CON2). For CON3, first insert the terminal block plug into the socket and
then install the socket into the PCB
holes with the wire entries toward the
outside edge of the PCB.
Now mount the 100nF X2 class
capacitor located near CON3. The
47μF, 470μF and 2200μF electrolytic
capacitors can then go in. The 47μF NP
(non-polarised) electrolytic can go in
either way around, but the others must
all be orientated correctly.
Note that the 47μF capacitor above
Q5 and Q6 must be rated to handle
at least 50V (eg, a 63V type would be
acceptable).
Mini heatsinks
Before fitting Q7 and Q9, you must
first attach the heatsinks. Do this by
inserting the mounting posts into
the PCB holes and soldering these to
the underside of the PCB. These will
require a lot of heat from your soldering iron before the solder will successfully melt to secure the heatsink. Take
care to avoid burning yourself on the
hot heatsinks; wait until they are cool
before mounting Q7 and Q9.
Now tackle Q7 (FZT558). It would
help to spread a little flux paste on
all four of its pads before placing the
part. Align the device with the PCB
pads and solder one of the pins to the
PCB. Check for alignment and reheat
the solder to realign if necessary. Then
solder the remaining pins.
The metal tab needs to be soldered
to the PCB right next to the heatsink.
Again, you will need to heat it with
your iron for an extended period due
to the heatsink drawing heat away.
Once the solder melts, though, solder the tab as quickly as possible to
avoid overheating the device. Now
install transistor Q9 (FZT458) in the
same manner.
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Use a cable tie to secure the
2.2μH inductor L1 to the board.
Winding inductor L1
The inductor (L1) is wound using a
2m length of 1.25mm diameter enamelled copper wire on a plastic bobbin.
Use a winding jig as shown opposite.
Without it, it’s a much more difficult
procedure, and you risk damaging
the relatively fragile bobbin. Attach
the bobbin to the jig, then wind 13.5
turns of 1.25mm diameter wire in the
clockwise direction as shown, leaving
about 20mm free at each end.
When finished, secure the winding with a narrow strip of insulation tape, then slip a 15mm length
of 20mm diameter heatshrink tubing
over the bobbin and heat it gently (be
careful to avoid melting the bobbin).
Next, use a small, sharp hobby knife
to scrape away the enamel from the
protruding lengths of wire around
the whole circumference and tin the
exposed copper at the ends, ensuring
the solder sticks.
The inductor can then be installed
on the PCB, orientated as shown.
Secure it with a cable tie over the top
of the winding and through to the
underside of the PCB.
Preparing the main heatsink
The next step is to drill the heatsinks using the drilling templates provided (Fig.7). It is essential to place
the holes accurately, so they are centred between the heatsink fins. That
way, the screw heads will fit neatly
between the fins.
Before drilling the heatsink, you
will have to carefully mark out the
A close-up of the mounting arrangement of the transistors to the heatsink.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 65
Fig.7: drill the two side-by-side heatsinks as shown here. You can drill the transistor mounting holes through the
heatsink using a 3mm bit and then mount the transistors using screws, nuts and washers. The underside edge is
drilled to 2.5mm and tapped for M3 in two places on each heatsink so that it can be mounted to the chassis.
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siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: use this diagram as a guide for mounting the various devices to the
heatsink. Note the use of silicone insulating washers for all the large devices (no
need for Mica given how spread out the heat load is) and the plastic bushes for
the TO-220 devices with fully exposed metal tabs.
hole locations using a very sharp pencil, then use a centre punch (or hammer and nail) to mark the hole centres. Next, drill 3mm holes at all the
marked positions.
It is best to use a drill press as it’s
challenging to get the holes perfectly
perpendicular to the mounting face
otherwise. Use a small pilot drill to
begin with (eg, 1.5mm), then step up
the drill size to either 2.5mm or 3mm.
Use a suitable lubricant when drilling the holes. Kerosene is the recommended lubricant for aluminium, but
we found that light machine oil (eg,
Singer or 3-in-1) also works well for
jobs like this.
The holes have to go between the
fins, so check that the hole positions
are correct before drilling them.
Don’t try drilling each hole in one
pass. When drilling aluminium, it’s
important to regularly remove the
bit from the hole and clear away the
metal swarf. If you don’t do this, the
aluminium swarf has a nasty habit of
jamming the drill bit and breaking, it
and can also scratch the heatsink face.
Relubricate the hole and the bit each
time before you resume drilling.
At this stage, 2.5mm holes can be
drilled in the bottom edge of the heatsink, ready to be tapped with an M3
thread. Do this at two places along the
bottom edge on each heatsink. This
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is for mounting the heatsinks to the
chassis later.
Tapping
To tap the underside mounting
holes, you will need an M3 intermediate (or starting) tap (not a finishing
tap). The trick here is to take it nice
and slowly. Keep the lubricant up and
regularly wind the tap out to clear the
metal swarf from the hole. Relubricate
the tap each time before resuming.
Do not apply undue force to the tap.
It’s all too easy to break a tap in half
if you are heavy-handed. Similarly, if
you encounter any resistance when
undoing the tap from the heatsink,
gently rotate it back and forth and let
it cut its way back out. In short, don’t
force it, or it will break.
Finally, lightly deburr hole edges
using an oversized drill bit and clean
off any aluminium particles or swarf.
Check that the area around the holes
is perfectly smooth, or the insulating
washers could be damaged. Scrub the
heatsink thoroughly using water and
detergent and allow it to dry.
Final assembly
Fig.8 shows the transistor mounting
details. Start by mounting transistors
Q13 to Q24, noting that Q13-Q18 are
the MJW21196 transistors while Q19Q24 are the MJW21195 transistors.
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Q13-Q18 are mounted on the left-hand
heatsink and Q19-24 on the right-hand
heatsink. The locations for these are
shown in Fig.7 (you can also refer to
Fig.6).
These all mount with a silicone
insulating washer between each transistor and the heatsink face. They are
secured using M3 x 20mm machine
screws inserted between the heatsink
fins and a flat metal washer and M3
nut against the transistor face. Do not
tighten the screws yet, so you can move
the insulation washers and transistors
to allow mounting onto the PCB.
Q12 (the MJE15034) on the left-hand
heatsink and Q11 (the MJE15035) on
the right-hand heatsink need silicone TO-220 insulating washers and
an insulating bush inserted into the
device’s tab hole before being secured
with an M3 x 15mm screw and M3 nut.
Also leave these loose for the moment.
Q10, the BD139, mounts with the
metal face toward the heatsink and
a TO-220 silicone washer between
the heatsink and transistor. Attach it
May 2022 67
When finished, our 500W
Amplifier will have fans attached
at the back of the heatsink via a
metal bracket on the base of the case.
with an M3 x 15mm screw and M3
nut and again, leave the screw connection loose.
Now mount the PCB on six
M3-tapped 9mm spacers and sit it on
a flat surface. Lower each heatsink,
one at a time, inserting the transistor
leads through the appropriate holes.
Once they’re in, push the board down
so that all four spacers (and the heatsink) are in contact with the benchtop.
This adjusts the transistor lead
lengths and ensures that the bottom of
the board sits exactly 9mm above the
bottom edge of the heatsink.
Check that the correct transistor is
in each position and adjust the PCB
assembly horizontally so that each
extends an equal 1mm beyond the side
of the heatsink. Now tighten all the
transistor screws just enough that they
are held in place while keeping the
insulating washers correctly aligned.
The rear of each heatsink should be
flat against the transistor mounting
edge of the PCB.
The next step is to lightly solder
the transistor leads from the top of
the PCB, or at least as many leads as
you can easily access from the top.
Then carefully turn the whole assembly upside down and prop the front
edge of the board up by placing books
68
Silicon Chip
or something similar under the board
so that the PCB is maintained at right
angles to the heatsink.
If you don’t have anything handy
that you can stack to a suitable height,
you can cut a couple of cardboard cylinders to 63mm (eg, from discarded
paper towel rolls) to use as temporary
supports.
If you don’t do this, it will sag under
its own weight and remain in this condition after the leads are soldered.
Now you can solder the remaining
transistor leads and add extra solder to
any that need it. Make sure the joints
are good since they can carry many
amps at full power. When finished,
trim the leads and turn the board rightway-up again.
Next, tighten the transistor mounting screws to ensure good thermal
coupling between the devices and
the heatsink. They need to be tight,
but don’t get out your breaker bar or
impact driver.
Checking device isolation
Now check that the transistors are
all electrically isolated from the heatsink. Do this by switching your multimeter to a high ohms range and
measuring the resistance between the
heatsink mounting surface and the
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collectors of the heatsink-mounted
transistors.
For transistors Q13-Q24, it’s simply
a matter of checking between each of
the fuse clips closest to the heatsink
and the heatsink itself on each side
of the Amplifier. That’s because the
device collectors in each half of the
output stage are connected together
and run to their respective fuses. You
should get a reading above 10MW, and
quite likely “OL” as it should be too
high for your DMM to read.
Testing shorts for transistors Q10
(the Vbe multiplier), Q11 and Q12
is different. In this case, you have to
check for shorts between the centre
(collector) lead of each device and
the heatsink.
If you do find a short, undo each
transistor mounting screw in turn until
the short disappears. It’s then simply
a matter of locating the cause of the
problem and remounting the offending
transistor. Be sure to replace the insulating washer if it has been damaged in
any way (eg, punched through).
Q25 (BC546) and Q26 (BC556)
can be mounted now. These are held
in position using transistor clamps
attached to the heatsink by 15mm M3
screws and nuts.
Apply a smear of heatsink compound to the flat face of each, mount
the transistor clamps and position
each transistor so the clamps will
hold them in place at approximately
the centre of the transistor body. Then
tighten the screws. Turn the PCB
assembly upside-down and solder and
trim the transistor leads.
Now you must remove the three
support spacers from the edge of the
board adjacent to the heatsink. This
edge of the board must be supported
only by the heatsink transistor leads.
This avoids the risk of eventually
cracking the PCB tracks and pads
around the heatsink mounted transistors due to thermal expansion and
contraction as the assembly heats up
and cool down.
Coming up next
That completes the assembly of the
Amplifier Module. Next month we
will describe the power supply, how
to power up and test the Amplifier
and give full details on building the
Amplifier into a vented aluminium
metal case (shown above and with its
lid removed) and keeping it cool, even
under full load conditions.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Complete 500W Amplifier
1 assembled 500W Amplifier Module (see Silicon Chip,
April & May 2022)
1 assembled Amplifier Clipping Indicator set up for
±80V DC supplies (see Silicon Chip, March 2022)
1 assembled Fan Controller & Loudspeaker Protector
with three 120mm PWM fans (see Silicon Chip,
February 2022)
1 12V 15W switch-mode mains supply
[Jaycar MP3296, Altronics M8728]
Chassis
1 3U Aluminium rack enclosure, 558.80mm x
431.80mm x 133.35mm, made from:
1 Bud Industries RM-14222 Rackmount Chassis Kit
(front, back & sides) [Digi-Key 377-1392-ND]
1 Bud Industries TBC-14253 Solid Rackmount Cover
(for base) [Digi-Key 377-1396-ND]
1 Bud Industries TBC-14263 Perforated Rackmount
Cover (for lid) [Digi-Key 377-1397-ND]
4 equipment mounting feet
[Jaycar HP0830/HP0832, Altronics H0890]
1 400mm length of 20 x 20mm x 3mm aluminium angle
[hardware store]
1 220 x 60mm front panel label
Power Supply
1 800VA toroidal mains transformer with 2 x 115V AC
and 2 x 55V AC windings [RS Components 1234050]
1 toroidal transformer mounting disc (drill hole out to
8mm diameter) [RS Components 6719202]
2 Neoprene washers for toroidal transformer
[RS Components 6719218]
1 35A 400V bridge rectifier (BR1)
[MB354, KPC3504 or similar]
1 208 x 225 x 0.8mm insulating sheet (Prespahn,
Elephantide or similar) [Jaycar HG9985]
1 295 x 125 x 3mm plastic sheet (Perspex,
Polycarbonate, PVC, acrylic or similar)
1 IEC mains input connector with fuse
[Jaycar PP4004, Altronics P8324]
1 IEC mains connector insulating boot [Jaycar PM4015]
1 IEC mains power cord
1 M205 3.15A slow-blow fuse (F3)
1 DPDT mains switch with red neon lamp (S1)
[Jaycar SK0982, Altronics S3242B]
1 3-way 6A mains-rated terminal strip
[Jaycar HM3194, Altronics P2130A]
8 10,000μF 100V electrolytic capacitors
[Jaycar RU6712 with mounting brackets]
6 15kW 1W resistors
2 5mm LEDs (LED4, LED5)
6 5mm yellow insulated crimp eyelets
[Jaycar PT4714, Altronics H2061B]
6 6.3mm blue insulated female spade crimp connectors
[Jaycar PT4625, H1996B]
10 150mm cable ties
7 adhesive panel mount cable anchors
assortment of heatshrink tubing
siliconchip.com.au
Wire and cable
300mm of 7.5A or 10A Earth wire (green/yellow striped)
[can be sstripped from three-core mains flex]
1 1.5m length of twin-core 7.5A sheathed mains cable
5m of 0.5mm diameter copper wire (eg, copper picture
frame wire)
400mm of dual-core shielded microphone cable (or
single-core if RCA input socket is used)
2m of red 25A-rated hookup wire, 2.9mm2
[Jaycar WH3080]
2m of black 25A-rated hookup wire, 2.9mm2
[Jaycar WH3082]
1m of figure-8 wire, 2.93mm2 per conductor
[Jaycar WB1732]
1m of figure-8 wire, 2.5mm2 per conductor
[Jaycar WB1712]
2m of figure-8 wire, 0.76mm2 per conductor
[Jaycar WB1708]
1m of figure-8 wire, 0.44mm2 per conductor
[Jaycar WB1704]
Hardware, including screws
2 No.4 x 6mm self-tapping screws (or two M2 x 6mm
machine screws and two M2 nuts)
1 M8 x 75mm bolt, M8 hex nut and washer for
transformer [hardware store]
8 M4 x 50mm machine screws
1 M4 x 20mm machine screw
3 M4 x 15mm machine screws
22 M4 x 10mm machine screws
4 M4-tapped joiners
39 M4 hex nuts
3 M4 star washers
2 M3 x 15mm machine screws
4 M3 x 12mm countersunk head machine screws
10 M3 x 10mm machine screws
11 M3 x 9mm Nylon standoffs
2 M3 x 6mm machine screws
22 M3 x 5mm machine screws
12 M3 hex nuts
Other parts
1 SPDT 30A relay, 12V coil (RLY1) [Altronics S4211]
3-pin female XLR panel connector [Jaycar PS1054,
Altronics P0903] (or insulated panel-mount RCA
socket)
1 panel-mount pair of heavy-duty loudspeaker terminals
[Jaycar PT0457, Altronics P9257A]
1 RCA line plug
1 panel-mount bezel for 5mm LED [Jaycar SL2610,
Altronics Z0220]
3 6.3mm yellow insulated female spade crimp
connectors [Jaycar PT4725, Altronics H1842A]
1 560nF 100V MKT capacitor
2 10kW lug-mount NTC thermistors [Altronics R4112]
Here is the complete parts list for the 500W Amplifier.
While we aren’t describing its assembly in this article
(just the module), it will give potential constructors
time to order and receive the parts, ready for the final
constructional article next month.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 69
Air Quality Sensors
Many different air quality sensors and sensing modules have
appeared on the market, some of them surprisingly low in cost.
Here’s a quick rundown of what they do and how they work.
By Jim Rowe
I
Image Source: www.pexels.com/photo/white-clouds-and-blue-sky-907485/
nterest in air quality sensors and
monitors has grown steadily, especially during bushfires when there’s
a lot of smoke in the air, or for people who live in countries with factories near urban areas that cause poor
air quality.
Air filters and air quality sensors are
now an essential part of the air conditioning systems in office buildings,
hospitals and factories. But the filters
and sensors developed for these ‘large
scale’ applications are generally rather
expensive.
Then when the COVID-19 virus and
its growing family of mutants appeared
in late 2019 and were soon found capable of spreading via aerosol droplets,
interest in air quality sensors almost
exploded. It soon became apparent
that smaller and lower-cost sensors
were needed to sense and control the
air quality in ‘smaller scale’ environments like homes, retail stores and
schools.
To meet this challenge, designers
worldwide soon came up with many
different kinds of low-cost air quality
sensors and modules. There are so
many that it can be daunting to pick
the sensor or module best suited for
your particular application.
This article will describe the main
types of low-cost air quality sensors
and explain what each type does and
how they work. There are quite a few
acronyms commonly used in this area,
and you’ll find the more common ones
explained in the Glossary sidebar.
Before getting to the sensors, let’s
look at the undesired matter that can
be in the air we breathe.
What’s in the air
There are three main types of harmful components in the air we breathe:
particulate matter, volatile organic
compounds and toxic gases like sulfur
dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, ozone, carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide –
the last of which we exhale ourselves.
Particulate matter includes smoke
and smog particles, which have long
been recognised as a health risk. It
also includes liquid aerosol droplets,
which may contain things like viruses
and bacteria.
Currently, there are three official categories of airborne particulate matter,
specified according to particle size and
diameter: PM10, PM2.5 and PM1.0.
PM10 refers to particles less than 10
micrometres (μm) in diameter, PM2.5
to particles less than 2.5μm in diameter and PM1.0 to particles less than
1μm in diameter.
To put these numbers in perspective, the diameter of human hair is
typically between 50μm and 70μm.
Particles with a diameter of less
than 10μm are small enough to pass
through our nostrils and throat and
enter our lungs. Once inhaled, these
particles can remain in our lungs and
contribute to serious health problems
like emphysema and lung cancer.
Even smaller particles with a diameter of less than 2.5μm can pass through
the lung tissues and enter our bloodstream, where they can cause even
more serious problems in organs like
Nine of the low-cost MQ-series
MOS gas sensors made by Hanwei
Electronics in Henan, China and
widely available on the internet.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the heart, liver and kidneys. This also
applies to particles with a diameter
of less than 1μm. PM1.0 is arguably
a less useful criterion than the other
two as the effect of these particles is
similar to PM2.5.
It’s almost impossible to have totally
clean air, especially in an urban environment. So what levels of airborne
particulate matter are regarded as relatively ‘safe’?
The current guidelines are:
• PM10 particles should not exceed
20μg per cubic metre (μg/m3) averaged over a year, or 50μg/m3 mean
over 24 hours.
• PM2.5 particles should not
exceed 10μg/m3 averaged over a year,
or 25μg/m3 mean over 24 hours.
As for volatile organic compounds
(VOCs), these are vapours emitted by
many of the materials used in building our homes and offices, and many
of the products we have and use in
them. Common VOCs that may be
present in the indoor air are benzene,
ethylene glycol, formaldehyde, methylene chloride, tetrachloroethylene,
toluene, xylene and 1,3-butadiene.
By the way, “organic” means that
they contain carbon molecules (like
our organs, hence the name), not that
they have been grown without synthetic fertiliser or pesticides.
VOCs come from paints, varnishes,
vinyl flooring, adhesives and composite wood products. Many can cause
health problems in people with asthma
and similar breathing problems, as
well as people with specific allergies.
Currently, there aren’t many ‘safe
level’ guidelines for VOCs, though,
and the general advice seems to be that
they should be kept as low as possible
– especially over the long term.
Now we come to toxic gases. The
most common of these in our homes
and offices is carbon dioxide (CO2)
because we exhale this ourselves. The
best way to keep the CO2 level reasonable is to provide adequate ventilation. Still, it is also the major component of combustion gases, along with
water vapour (but water is generally
harmless).
Other examples of toxic gases are
sulfur dioxide (SO2), nitrogen dioxide (NO2), carbon monoxide (CO) and
ozone (O3). Luckily, since CO is produced mainly by imperfect combustion, there shouldn’t be much of it in
the air inside our homes and offices.
But if you work in or adjacent to a
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vehicle repair facility or parking garage
or have an unflued gas heater, it may
well be of concern.
Historically, SO 2 pollution has
been associated with the combustion
of wood or fossil fuels like coal. So
nowadays, in urban areas, this should
not be a serious problem – unless you
live near a coal-fired power station or
prefer an old-fashioned wood fire to
heat your home.
Like CO, NO2 is generally produced
as a result of combustion. Motor vehicles are the main source outdoors.
Indoors, the primary sources are gas,
wood, oil, kerosene, coal-burning fires
and heaters, and tobacco smoke.
Ozone can be emitted by office
equipment involving high voltage,
like laser printers and photocopiers.
It is also generated by arcing within
brushed motors. Safety guidelines for
some of these gases are currently:
• SO2: less than 40μg/m3 averaged
over one hour.
• NO2: less than 10μg/m3 average
over a year, or 200μg/m3 over one hour.
• O3: less than 60μg/m3 mean over
eight hours.
Types of air quality sensor
Currently, there are four main
types of air quality sensor: the metal
oxide semiconductor (MOS) type,
the non-dispersive IR sensor (NDIR)
type, the photo-acoustic spectroscope
(PAS) type and the particulate matter
counter (PMC) type. Let’s now look at
how these work.
MOS sensors
Sometimes called MOx sensors,
these rely on the behaviour of particles of a metal oxide (usually tin oxide)
when heated in the presence of air and/
or other gases. The basic principle of a
MOS sensor is shown in Fig.1, which
shows a cross-section of a MOS sensor.
The silicon substrate of the sensing
chip has a thin layer of tin oxide on the
top, placed there by chemical vapour
deposition. Electrodes at each end
allow its resistance to be measured. On
the underside of the chip is a heater
element, used to heat the oxide layer
to around 200-250°C, to speed up the
sensor’s response.
When the oxide layer is heated in
the presence of clean air, donor electrons in the oxide attract oxygen molecules from the air and they are ‘captured’ by the oxide particles. As a
result, a depletion layer forms on the
surface of the oxide layer, and its electrical resistance rises.
But if reducing gases such as carbon
monoxide (CO) and some VOCs are
present in the air, oxygen molecules
in the surface of the oxide are released,
and the depletion layer becomes thinner. As a result, the effective resistance
of the oxide layer is reduced.
So the current passed by the oxide
layer varies proportionally with the
amount of reducing gas in the air surrounding the oxide layer. The higher
the reducing gas level, the higher the
current.
MOS sensors can detect specific
VOCs by ‘doping’ the oxide layer with
various chemicals.
This is done in the MQ-series of
sensors made by Hanwei Electronics
Group in Henan, China. For example,
their MQ-3 sensor is designed to detect
alcohol vapour, so it’s suitable for use
in a ‘breathalyser’. On the other hand,
their MQ-5 sensor is designed to detect
natural gas, LPG and coal gas, so it’s
suitable for use in gas leak detectors.
The other sensors in this series are
designed for sensing:
• MQ-4: methane gas
• MQ-6: LPG, iso-butane & propane
Fig.1: the basic
principle of a MOS
sensor.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 71
• MQ-7: carbon monoxide (CO)
• MQ-8: hydrogen (H2)
• MQ-9: methane (CH4), LPG & CO
• MQ-135: ammonia (NH3), nitrous
oxides (NOx), carbon dioxide (CO2),
alcohol, benzene and smoke
Many of the Hanwei MQ-series
sensors are used in many low-cost
gas sensing modules available on the
internet. They are all in a cylindrical
six-pin package, either 17mm or 20mm
in diameter and 10mm or 15mm high.
Most of these modules simply take
the analog current output from the
sensor and convert it to a proportional
voltage using an op amp buffer. The
output voltage can then be measured
using a digital multimeter (DMM) or
fed into one of the ADC inputs of a
microcontroller unit (MCU).
SGX Sensortech
Other MOS sensors found in lowcost air/gas sensing modules are the
MiCS-5524 and the MiCS-4514, both
made by SGX Sensortech (an Amphenol company) in Switzerland. These
are much smaller than the MQ-series
sensors, being in an SMD package measuring only 7 x 5 x 1.6mm.
The MiCS-5524 detects CO, ethanol, hydrogen, ammonia and methane, while the MiCS-4514 has a second MOS sensor that detects nitrogen
dioxide (NO2).
The MiCS-5524 sensor is used in
a gas sensing module with the same
name, available from various internet
suppliers, including Banggood, which
currently has it priced at US$11.00
plus free shipping. This module measures only 18 x 13mm.
The MiCS-4514 sensor is used in
a fancier and slightly larger module
(23 x 14mm) called the MiCS-VZ89TE, provided by SGX Sensortech
itself and available from suppliers like
Two more low-cost modules using the CCS811 MOS sensor made by ScioSense
BV in Eindhoven. The one on the left is the Geekcreit CJMCU-811, available
from Banggood, while the one on the right is Duinotech SEN-CCS811, available
from Jaycar (Cat XC3782).
element14 for around $25 plus shipping. This module incorporates its
own ADCs (analog-to-digital converters), together with a dedicated MCU
with detection algorithms.
This module can provide CO2 equivalent and TVOC (isobutylene equivalent) readings via both PWM outputs
and over an I2C serial bus.
ScioSense BV
Yet another MOS sensor found in
low-cost air/gas sensing modules is
the CCS811, made by ScioSense BV in
Eindhoven, The Netherlands.
Like the MiCS devices, the CCS811
is in a tiny SMD package, but it’s even
smaller at just 4 x 3 x 1.2mm. Despite
this, the CCS811 incorporates both
an ADC and a dedicated MCU with
built-in conversion algorithms, plus
an I2C digital interface to link directly
to a PC or an MCU.
ScioSense describes it as an “ultralow-power digital gas sensor” and is
claimed to detect a range of VOCs,
providing both eTVOC (equivalent
total VOC) and eCO2 (equivalent CO2)
levels.
The CCS811 sensor is used in several air quality sensing modules,
including the Keyestudio KS0457
Two low-cost modules using the MiCS5524 MOS
gas sensor made by Swiss firm SGX Sensortech.
The module on the left is available from Banggood
(probably made by Geekcreit), while the one on
the right is the MiCS-VZ-89TE provided by SGX
Sensortech itself, with a built-in MCU.
72
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
CO2 Air Quality module, the Duinotech SEN-CCS811 Air Quality Sensor
module (Jaycar Cat XC3782), the Adafruit CCS811 Air Quality Sensor and
the CJMCU-811 CO2, Temperature and
Humidity Sensor from Banggood.
We’ll have a lot more details on
MOS/MOx air quality sensors in a
follow-up article next month, which
will also show how to hook them up
to microcontroller modules.
NDIR sensors
Another type of gas sensor is the
non-dispersive infrared (NDIR) type,
which, as the name suggests, makes
use of IR light. It’s a simple kind of
spectrophotometer that does not use
any ‘dispersive’ elements like a prism
or diffraction grating to separate the
various wavelengths. Instead, it uses
optical filters and/or a narrow-band
infrared light source like LEDs or a
semiconductor laser.
It was discovered some time ago that
molecules of different gases absorb
light of specific IR (and near-IR) wavelengths. Pierre Bouguer discovered the
general principle before 1729, and it
was later elaborated on by Johann
Lambert in 1760 and August Beer in
1852. Nowadays, it’s known as the
Beer-Lambert law or the Beer-LambertBouguer law.
So by passing light of a specific
wavelength through an air/gas mixture, the degree to which the light is
attenuated indicates the amount of that
gas present. The absorption spectra of
various gases are shown in Fig.2.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) absorbs light
with a wavelength of 4.26μm (red
lines) and also at a group of wavelengths around 15μm. Similarly,
ozone (O3) absorbs light at wavelengths between 9.4-10μm (dark green
lines), while carbon monoxide (CO)
absorbs light at wavelengths between
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the absorption spectra of
various gases that can be detected by
some of the sensor modules.
4.6-4.8μm (purple lines) and nitrogen
dioxide (NO2) absorbs light between
6.17-6.43μm (light green lines).
The operating principle of a simple
NDIR sensor is shown in Fig.3. The IR
light comes from the LED on the left,
while there are two IR detectors on the
right, behind separate optical filters.
One filter passes only light of the
wavelength corresponding to the gas
to be detected. In contrast, the other filter passes either all other wavelengths
or else the wavelength absorbed by a
gas like nitrogen, which is the major
component of air. By comparing the
output of the two IR detectors, it can
determine the proportion of the gas
you want to detect in the chamber.
NDIR detectors have been used in
heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems for years.
However, they have tended to be
large and relatively expensive – until
recently, when IR LEDs and IR detectors based on micro-electromechanical
systems (MEMS) have allowed them
to be made smaller and for somewhat
lower in cost.
They still haven’t appeared widely
in the low-cost air quality sensor
(LCAQS) market, however.
wavelengths in sunlight (like IR and
ultraviolet or UV) also emit sound.
The basic structure of a PAS sensor
is shown in Fig.4. On the left again is
the pulsed IR light source (generally
a MEMS LED array), with an optical
filter to its right passing only light of
the wavelength absorbed by the gas to
be detected; in this example, the wavelength of 4.2μm for detection of CO2.
Then at the far end of the chamber,
there’s a MEMS microphone, optimised to detect low audio frequencies. When the detected sound level
is amplified, it can be converted into
a figure corresponding to the amount
of CO2 present in the cell. Note that
the sensor as a whole is enclosed in an
acoustic insulation layer, to reduce the
influence of external sound.
LCAQS sensors using the PAS principle have only appeared in the last
couple of years because their development has depended on MEMS
technology. The only one currently
available is the XENSIV PAS CO2
sensor from Infineon Technologies
(an offshoot of Siemens in Munich,
Germany).
This comes in a very compact PCB
‘mini board’ module measuring only
14 x 13.8 x 7.5mm, which combines
the PAS sensor with a dedicated MCU
running advanced compensation algorithms. The Infineon XENSIV PAS
CO2 sensor mini-board module is currently available from suppliers like
element14 and Mouser Electronics for
around $48.
Particulate matter sensors
The fourth kind of air quality sensor is particulate matter or ‘PM’ sensors or counters. These can fall into
three groups depending on the size
of the particles they are designed to
detect: less than 10μm (PM10), less
than 2.5μm (PM2.5) and less than 1μm
(PM1.0). However, some of them provide several ‘channels’ to deal with
particles of different sizes.
Currently, the PM2.5 type is the
most common in the low-cost section
of the market, so we will concentrate
on this type. The basic principle of this
type of PM sensor is shown in Fig.5.
A small fan pulls air from the environment into a channel which passes
through a sensing chamber. A small
Fig.3: how a simple NDIR
(non-dispersive infrared)
sensor works.
PAS sensors
Another kind of gas sensor is the
Photo-Acoustic Spectroscopy or PAS
sensor, which again makes use of the
way specific IR wavelengths can be
absorbed by molecules of a particular
gas (according to the Beer-Lambert
law). But in PAS sensors, the degree
of absorption is not measured directly.
Instead, they make use of a phenomenon first discovered by Alexander Graham Bell in 1880: that when a
thin disc is exposed to pulses of sunlight (using a rotating slotted wheel),
it emits sound. Later, Bell showed that
materials exposed to the non-visible
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the basic structure of a PAS (photoacoustic spectroscopy) sensor.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 73
laser sends a focused beam of light
through the chamber, where any particles of matter in the air will scatter the
light towards the sides. One or more
photodiodes in the sides of the chamber detect this scattered light.
Any light that is not scattered by PM
particles passes through the chamber
to be absorbed by the ‘beam dump’.
By controlling the fan speed and
thus moving the air through the sensing chamber at a known rate of volume,
together with measuring the output of
the photodiodes, the concentration of
particles in the air can be calculated.
The result is in units of μg/m3 (micrograms per cubic metre).
Note that the traditional and most
accurate way of measuring PM is the
‘gravimetric’ method, using a preweighed clean filter to collect particles from the air over a 24-hour sampling period, then weighing the filter
again to determine the total mass of the
accumulated particles, in micrograms.
The concentration is obtained by
dividing this figure by the volume of
air that passed through the filter during
the 24-hour sampling period.
There are several low-cost PM2.5
sensors currently available, including the Grove-Laser PM2.5 Sensor
module based on the Seeed Studio
HM3301 sensor from Shenzen, China;
the SN-GCJA5 sensor made by Panasonic Photo and Lighting Co. in Osaka,
Japan; and the SPS30 PM sensor from
Sensirion in Staefa, Switzerland.
Fig.5: the basic operating
principle of a PM
(particulate matter)
sensor.
The Seeed Studio HM3301 sensor is
inside a compact plastic and metal case
measuring 38 x 40 x 15mm. In addition
to the fan, laser and photodiodes, it has
built-in electronics which provide fan
control, photodiode signal amplification, filtering, multichannel data acquisition and an MCU for data processing.
The output is via an I2C interface.
In the Grove-Laser PM2.5 module,
the HM3301 sensor is mounted on a
PCB measuring 80 x 40mm, with a
four-pin connector at one end for connection to a 3.3-5V power supply and
the I2C lines for connection to a PC or
external MCU. The effective PM2.5
The Grove Laser PM2.5 air sensor module is based on the
Seeed HM3301 particulate matter sensor. The sensor itself
measures only 38 x 40 x 15mm, and the module comes with a
cable to connect to an Arduino or similar MCU.
74
Silicon Chip
measuring range of the module is
1-500μg/m3, although it can measure
up to a maximum level of 1000μg/m3.
This module is available from
Australian distributor Pakronics in
Rosanna, Victoria for around $50 plus
shipping.
The Panasonic SN-GCJA5 PM2.5
sensor is again inside a compact
moulded plastic box, measuring 37
x 37 x 12mm and weighing 13g. Like
the HM3301 sensor, it includes all
electronics to control the fan speed,
amplify and filter the signals from the
photodiodes, and an MCU for data
processing.
The Panasonic SN-GCJA5 PM2.5 particulate matter
sensor comes in a small moulded plastic case measuring
37 x 37 x 12mm. In addition to the fan, laser and
photodetector, it contains all electronics and provides
both I2C and UART digital outputs.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The output is via either an I2C or a
UART TX (serial) terminal. The effective measuring range of this module is
0-2000μg/m3.
The Panasonic SN-GCJA5 PM2.5
sensor is currently available in Australia from element14 for around $37
plus delivery. It comes in a compact
plastic-and-metal case measuring
41.2 x 41.2 x 12.3mm and weighing
only 26.3g. As with the other two, it
includes all the electronics to control
the fan speed, amplify and filter the
photodiode signals, together with an
MCU for data processing.
The output is via either an I2C
interface or a UART TX/RX interface
(selectable). The effective PM2.5 measuring range is 0-1000μg/m3.
By the time you read this article, the
Sensirion SPS30 PM sensor should
also be available in Australia from element14, for around $60 plus shipping.
I will review some of the sensors
described here, and show how to use
them in a future series of articles.
Glossary of terms
ADC
Analog-to-Digital Converter – a device that converts a current or voltage into a
digital value (usually an integer)
eCO2
A concentration of CO2 in the air inferred by measuring the concentration of VOCs
(see below)
COPD
Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease – includes asthma, emphysema,
asbestosis, etc
IAQ
Indoor Air Quality
LCAQS
Low-Cost Air Quality Sensors – officially defined as sensors costing less than
US$500(!)
MCU
Microcontroller Unit – a small processor with onboard memory and peripherals
MEMS
Micro ElectroMechanical Systems – devices fabricated like an IC but with
mechanical elements. See our November 2020 feature article (siliconchip.com.au/
siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14635) for details
Article/14635
MOS
Metal Oxide Semiconductor – a type of semiconductor that varies its resistance
depending on the concentration of reducing gases it is exposed to, allowing it to
detect CO and some VOCs
MOx
Another name for MOS
NDIR
Non-Dispersive Infrared (IR) sensor
NOx
The oxides of nitrogen, NO2 & NO3, generally created when air is heated to very high
temperatures (eg, inside an internal combustion engine, especially diesel engines)
PAS
Photo Acoustic Spectroscopy – gas molecules exposed to IR pulses produce sound
which can be used to determine the gas concentration
Manufacturers:
www.infineon.com
www.sgxsensortech.com
siliconchip.com.au/link/abcv
siliconchip.com.au/link/abcw
PMC
Particulate Matter Counter – a device which counts the number of particles in an
air sample
PM10
Particulate matter in the air, including only particles less than 10μm in diameter
PM2.5
Particulate matter in the air, including only particles less than 2.5μm in diameter
Retailers:
www.jaycar.com.au
https://au.element14.com/3523840
www.pakronics.com.au
www.banggood.com
siliconchip.com.au/link/abcx SC
PM1.0
Particulate matter in the air, including only particles less than 1μm in diameter
tVOC
A VOC reading (see below) equivalent to a reference concentration of isobutylene
(a VOC)
VOCs
Volatile Organic Compounds – a large group of chemicals within many of the
products we have in our homes and offices; their vapours can form a health risk if
breathed in
U Cable Tester
S
B
Test just about any USB cable!
USB-A (2.0/3.2) USB-B (2.0/3.2)
USB-C Mini-B Micro-B (2.0/3.2)
Reports faults with individual cable
ends, short circuits, open circuits,
voltage drops and cable resistance etc
November & December 2021 issue
siliconchip.com.au/Series/374
DIY kit for $110
SC5966 – siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/5966
Everything included except the case and batteries. Postage is $10 within Australia, see our website for overseas & express post rates
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 75
U
O
R OW
Y
D
L
I
N
U
B
GIANNI PALOTTI’S
JACKPOT
A slot machine is a game where you insert a coin, and the machine randomly chooses a
combination of symbols. Depending on what symbols turn up, you might get a payout;
rare combinations could net you many times what you put in. They can be fun to play but
it gets expensive if you’re using real money. Why not build this machine with colour
graphics and sound; it’s just as fun to play, but you can’t lose your shirt!
T
his slot machine displays four
virtual wheels, each with 17
symbols drawn from a set of
six: cherries, a bell, a bar, the number
seven, a lemon and a bonus starburst
(see Fig.1). It is based on a Micromite
Plus LCD BackPack, producing colour
graphics and sound.
To keep things simple, this Slot
Machine differs a little from a real
slot machine that has the symbols in
a fixed order on the wheels. Instead, it
randomly selects one of the six symbols for each wheel over the 17 ‘runs’
or ‘loops’. Each symbol showing at the
end of each cycle therefore has six possibilities. Still, as this is updated over
17 cycles, the possibility of repeating
the same symbol too often is avoided.
The design includes a 5c coin input
slot; this gives the player a more realistic ‘casino’ feeling when compared to
a typical downloadable slot machine
game. The standalone cabinet also
makes it more interesting than any
old app.
I made the coin input from a funnel
with a reflective photosensor. Every
time a coin passes through, a highto-low signal transition is sent to the
Micromite Plus LCD BackPack around
which the game is based, and it adds
one credit in response. It has a limit
Fig.1: the six possible symbols that randomly appear on the four ‘wheels’ during
play. The payout varies depending on what combination is shown in Fig.2.
of three credits (coins) per spin, and
wins are calculated accordingly, based
on the chart shown in Fig.2.
You could use a pushbutton instead
of a coin slot, but that would remove
some of the fun.
An add-on module offers the possibility of a solenoid-operated ‘kicker’ to
eject any coins collected into the coin
tray. This can be done by operating a
tilting table, or the coins can be ejected
into a thin tube (with an internal diameter slightly bigger than the 5c coins)
located under the coin input funnel.
However, the details of those
options are not described here and
will be left as an exercise for the
reader. Some changes to the overall
case dimensions would be necessary
to implement either option.
Operation
Once power is switched on, the program starts an initialisation routine
which sets up the sound module and
loads images from an SD card using
the BLIT READ command available
on the Micromite Plus. Once the initialisation is complete, the gamer can
insert coins into the slot. The first
coin will activate the “PlayReady”
LED, and the “Play 1 Coin” button
becomes active.
You can choose the number of coins
you would like to play by continuing to
push this button or hold it down until
no more coins are transferred from the
“CREDITS” box into the “COINS IN”
box. The maximum number of coins
you can play for each spin is three.
When “Spin Wheel” is pushed, it
changes the symbols displayed on the
screen using the “BLIT WRITE” command, based on random numbers generated by the RND(TIMER) function,
which tells the computer to use its
internal clock value as a random seed.
This number is then further processed
Slot Machine Payouts
●
●
●
1
●
●
●
2
●
●
3
●
5
●
5
●
8
Values
above
the red
line are
multipled
by the
amount
of coins
inserted
(up to
three
coins).
10
●
18
20
●
25
30
●
50
JACKPOT
Fig.2: the payouts that are given depend on the result of the spin. For example, if you get “7 cherry lemon cherry”, that’s
two cherries, so you get a payout of three if one coin was inserted, six if two were inserted or nine if three were inserted.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 77
Fig.3: the circuit of the Slot Machine is simple as most of the work
is done by the Micromite. It triggers audio playback by sending
commands to the DFPlayer Mini module, which connects to the
loudspeaker via CON1. The rest of the circuit is mostly a power supply
and a way to interface to the pushbuttons, LED and coin sensor.
to achieve an almost-random value
from 1 to 6.
The process is then repeated 17
times to simulate the wheels spinning,
after which the result is analysed and
any payout is processed, as per Fig.2.
The addition of sound effects makes
this unit more fun and adds to the
78
Silicon Chip
reality of the game. After all, the point
of playing slots is to have fun!
Circuit details
The main circuit is shown in Fig.3.
It’s based around the Micromite Plus
LCD BackPack (November 2016 issue;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/10415).
Australia's electronics magazine
This has a powerful onboard PIC32MX470F512H 32-bit 120MHz processor plus a 320x240 pixel colour
touchscreen that’s used as the display
and for user input.
The touchscreen has a 3.2-inch
(8cm) diagonal measurement compared to the 2.8-inch (7cm) screen
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Slot Machine
1 Micromite Plus LCD BackPack (without touchscreen) loaded with
SlotMachine V10.bas [Silicon Chip Cat SC6211]
2 microSD cards loaded with sounds & images
1 3.2-inch LCD touchscreen with ILI9341 controller
1 4-pin female header (to mount the touchscreen to the BackPack)
1 double-sided PCB coded 08105221, 76 x 53mm
1 DFPlayer Mini audio player module [Silicon Chip Cat SC4789]
1 5V DC coil SPDT relay (RLY1) [Omron G5LE-5V or CIT J107F1CS125VDC] ●
7 2-pin headers, 2.54mm pitch (CON1, CON3, CON9-CON13)
1 4-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (CON2)
1 PCB-mount DC barrel socket (CON4)
1 2-pin polarised header and matching plug, 2.54mm pitch (CON5)
2 8-way female headers, 2.54mm pitch (CON6, CON7)
1 18-way male or female header, 2.54mm pitch (CON8)
1 9V battery clip to barrel plug (optional)
1 3W 4W miniature loudspeaker
1 grille to suit the loudspeaker
1 panel-mount slide or toggle switch (power on/off)
3 square miniature panel-mount pushbuttons (Collect, Spin & Play Coin
buttons) [Jaycar SP0716 or Altronics S1080] ▲
1 red panel-mount LED in a square housing [eBay item #353825669342]
1 PS126EL1 paper sensor (optional, for coin sensing)
various jumper wires
various M3 machine screws, nuts, washers and spacers (for mounting the
PCBs, coin sensor etc)
Hardware
1 300 x 350mm sheet of 7mm plywood
1 136 x 95mm sheet of 14mm plywood
1 150 x 130mm sheet of 3mm black perspex/acrylic ■
3 65 x 52mm sheets of 3mm black perspex/acrylic ■
1 100mm length of 20 x 12mm aluminium angle
2 M5 x 15mm hex socket cap head machine screws
4 No.4 x 10mm self-tapping black screws for mounting the front panel
4 M4 x 10mm panhead machine screws & nuts
3 M4 x 6-7mm panhead machine screws
2 M3 x 20mm panhead machine screws & nuts
14 No.4 x 15mm wood screws
Semiconductors
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator (REG1)
1 2N2222A 40V 600mA NPN transistor (Q1) ●
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D1) ●
Capacitors
2 100μF 10V electrolytic
2 100nF multi-layer ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W 5%, small body types if possible)
2 10kW
1 2.4kW ●
6 1kW
2 1kW ●
1 120W
▲ add one more button if a coin sensor is not being fitted
■ or purchase laser-cut pieces from the Silicon Chip Online Shop (Cat
SC6181)
● these components are only needed for the optional ‘coin kicker’
normally used for this BackPack. That
larger size makes it better suited to the
Slot Machine. Since it has the same
number of pixels as the 2.8-inch screen
and a compatible controller chip, it’s a
direct swap; the only consideration is
that the mounting holes no longer line
up with the BackPack PCB.
siliconchip.com.au
Because of this, I glued a 4-pin
female header to the outer side of
CON4 on the BackPack to provide
extra anchorage for the screen.
The components besides the BackPack and LCD are hosted on another
PCB that adds just a few things to the
BackPack:
Australia's electronics magazine
•
•
•
•
a simple linear power supply
some buttons and LEDs
the coin sensor
a DFPlayer Mini digital audio
player, described in the December 2018 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11341).
This PCB concentrates all the extra
connections into two sets of wires, one
9-way and one 3-way, that emanate
only from one side of the BackPack.
The DFPlayer Mini is responsible for producing all the sounds. It is
wired to a miniature 73 x 51mm 4W
3W speaker mounted in the back of
the Slot Machine.
Power comes from a 9-12V DC plugpack or battery through a DC barrel
jack or direct USB input to the BackPack.
Micromite control
Programming the Micromite Plus
LCD BackPack is easy as it is done
in BASIC. The software configures
the COM port required to control the
DFPlayer Mini music player module
(COM2), sets the correct music files
source (micro SD slot) and sets the volume to the required value (20).
The BASIC code can be downloaded
from the Silicon Chip website and
loaded into the BackPack in the usual
manner, eg, using TeraTerm or MMEdit
to load the software into the BackPack
over its USB virtual serial port.
Once running, the coin input generates an INTH command which runs
a routine where the number of coins
inserted is registered without affecting
other operations or music playback.
The rest of the code is based on which
button is pressed and how much credit
is available at the time.
In addition to loading this software,
you must load each audio file on the
micro SD card in the correct order.
The sound effects are also part of the
download package, although the ‘background music’ is not included as it
depends on your taste. Select a music
track and convert it to a 44.1kHz 16-bit
stereo WAV file. The files must then
be copied into a folder named “mp3”
on the micro SD card in the following order:
1. Background music track
2. Coinin.wav
3. Play1Coin.wav
4. RunArm.wav
5. SpinWheel.wav
6. NoWin.wav
7. Jackpot.wav
May 2022 79
The main screen for the Slot Machine
indicates your total winnings (or
losses!)
To get the files in the correct order,
it’s best to copy them one at a time.
However, you can prefix the files with
a four-digit number, to guarantee the
correct playback order. We have done
this for the supplied files.
For example, the first file would be
prefixed with 0001, the second file
with 0002 etc.
This is because the DFPlayer only
plays a file based on its order in the file
system and does not look at the actual
file name, unless it has a numeric prefix as mentioned above.
The image files must be loaded
on a separate micro SD card in the
BackPack slot. These files are named
“SlotScreen1.bmp”, “SlotScreen2.
bmp” and “PayOutChart.bmp” and
are included in the download package.
Most of the parameters in the
code can be easily modified to suit
your preferences. This includes the
‘rewards’. Note that any code changes
to PAUSE(delay) commands can alter
Fig.4: assembly of
this add-on PCB is
straightforward; start
by soldering the lowestprofile components and
then work your way
up to the taller types.
As most of the headers
connect elsewhere
via jumper wires, you
could substitute male
for female headers or
vice versa, depending
on what jumper wires
you have.
* only for the coin kicker
the coordination between the sound
and program sequence.
Electronic assembly
Build the Micromite Plus LCD BackPack as per the instructions in the
November 2016 issue (link above)
and, once it’s up and running, load the
BASIC code (“SlotMachine V10.bas”)
onto it as explained earlier.
Next, build the extra circuitry on
the PCB coded 08105221 (76 x 53mm).
Follow the overlay diagram, Fig.4.
There isn’t much to it – solder the
resistors as shown (use small body
resistors or bend the leads close to the
bodies), followed by diode D1 orientated as shown, then transistor Q1 and
the two 100nF non-polarised capacitors. Then fit the headers, including
the two 8-way female headers CON6
and CON7 (not visible in Fig.4 as they
are under the DFPlayer Mini module).
Note that you can use a male or
female header for CON8 depending
on what type of header you have fitted to the BackPack, and what sort of
jumper wires you intend to use to join
the two boards.
Follow with the DC socket, then
the electrolytic capacitors with their
positive (longer) leads towards the
bottom or right side of the PCB, as
shown. Then mount REG1 with its
tab towards the edge of the PCB, followed by RLY1 if you are using the
coin kicker option. Finally, plug the
DFPlayer into its socket with the
micro SD card socket entry towards
the nearest board edge.
Note that if you’re using the coin
sensor, the 120W and 1kW resistors
specified may be suitable, or they
might need to be changed, with either
possibly being a higher value. For this
reason, extra 1kW and 2.4kW resistors
are specified in the parts list. You can
swap them out later if you find the coin
sensor doesn’t work well with the initial resistor values.
The wiring
is relatively
straightforward,
with most
connections
running between
the two main
boards.
Coins are ejected
via the underside
of the Slot
machine, so you
might want to
put a small tray
underneath it to
catch them.
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Fig.5: cut the plywood shapes as shown. Note the dotted outlines that show how the various parts fit together. Don’t
forget that the ‘floor’ is made from thicker (14mm) plywood. You could use other materials such as MDF or even acrylic.
Chassis assembly
Now we move on to building the
cabinet. It’s mostly made from plywood and perspex, with a couple of
metal brackets. The plywood cutting
details are shown in Fig.5, while the
perspex and metal pieces are shown
in Fig.6.
To save some effort, we can supply
laser-cut perspex pieces made from
3mm-thick black acrylic (see the parts
list); or download the templates from
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/11/6443
Fig.5 also shows how some of the
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other pieces mount to the side panel.
So once you’ve made all these pieces
and cut and drilled the holes, assemble them as per Fig.5 and the photos.
The 3mm black perspex front panel
is where the coin slot, LED screen, three
pushbuttons and LED are mounted.
This panel can be made of two separate
components or formed from a larger
piece, by bending it at the required
point to a 110° angle after heating it (eg,
with a hot air gun). If bending it, make
the cut-outs after the panel is formed
to avoid them distorting.
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Our laser-cut front panels are supplied as two separate pieces. You could
fill the joint with black silicone after
assembly if you want to.
The 5¢ coin input unit is made from
the same material as the front panel.
Our laser-cut set includes these four
pieces, which are assembled as shown
on the right side of Fig.6. The correct
location of the sensor opening must be
worked out according to the final sensor or microswitch selected.
Once all the pieces are ready,
...continued on page 84
May 2022 81
Fig.6: the front panels (upper left) can be made from two flat pieces or
one bent piece, as depicted at right. Making the metal brackets is simply
a matter of cutting the aluminium angle to length and drilling some holes.
The four remaining acrylic pieces shown opposite are assembled to form
the coin chute as depicted at lower right.
The Micromite
Plus LCD
BackPack that
controls the
whole Slot
Machine is
based on Geoff
Graham's
Explore 64
(shown at
actual size).
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We will be supplying a double-sided
PCB for the add-on module of the Slot
Machine from our Online Shop.
This is the 3W speaker I used. It
works well and I recommend it, but
there are plenty of other options.
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May 2022 83
Fig.7: here is how to wire it all up. Switch S4 is not
needed if you’re using the coin sensor and vice versa
(although you could have both if you want). The
power switch can be any type that can handle the
current. Take extra care with the wiring between
the add-on board and the BackPack, especially the
GND, 5V & 3V3 cables or you could fry something!
If using the optional switch (S4) for Coin In
instead of the coin sensor then you will need an
additional cut-out for another pushbutton on the
lower front panel. The dimensions of this will be
provided in the download for the front panels on
the Silicon Chip website.
assemble the cabinet using small 3mm
wood screws, ensuring that each holding hole is fully pre-drilled so that
the plywood does not split. Once
complete, the box can be primed and
painted as required. To allow coins to
slide out of the base, glue a thin section of material (preferably perspex)
to the top face of the floor.
You can use any metal or plastic
lid from any suitable container for the
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coin catching tray. I was fortunate to
find one of exact size that only needed
to be cut around the edges to make a
suitable shape. Use the small black
self-tapping screws to attach the front
panel on either side.
Wiring
After the chassis has been assembled, you’re ready to mount the
BackPack, control board and other
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electronic components and wire it up.
See the photos, which show where the
various parts go. Those photos should
also help you figure out the wiring, but
for clarity, we’ve also provided a full
wiring diagram in Fig.7.
Double-check the wiring between
the control board and the BackPack
before powering the Slot Machine up
since a mistake there could cause damage to either or both boards.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Where there’s a weld, there’s a way
Dave Thompson
It has always been my dream to build my own car. I worked on
aeroplanes for many years, and if I could do that, surely a more
terrestrial vehicle would be a doddle! Still, such an undertaking is a
major project, which is why I have been working on it for around 15
years and still haven’t finished...
It was either that or build an aeroplane; kit planes exist,
but they are pretty expensive, and my garage isn’t exactly
hangar-sized, so building a car is a somewhat more realistic
goal. When I started those 15 years ago, my circumstances
allowed me to indulge in this dream.
It was all triggered when I came across a book on making a Lotus 7 replica using standard Ford parts for systems
like steering, suspension and drivetrain, as manufacturing
these critical parts is tricky for the home builder.
There were a few problems, of course. Firstly, I’d need
to find those parts – or suitable equivalents. Secondly, I’d
need many tools I didn’t already have. First and foremost
among those, I’d need a decent welder and some skills to
go along with it.
Dad was a pretty good welder – he wasn’t qualified, but
learned by doing, and over the years, I spent many hours
watching him use his trusty arc welder (called a ‘stick
welder’ in some parts) to fuse metals together. I inherited
his welder and accessories, which now sit under my bench.
But I’ve never used them.
MIG vs TIG
The Lotus 7 replica was based on a tubular steel spaceframe chassis. To put it together and have it certified, I’d
need to use either a MIG (metal inert gas) or TIG (tungsten
inert gas) welder. Back when I started all this, TIG welders
were expensive, and from the research I’d done, it was a
much harder skill to acquire, so I decided to go with MIG.
The principle of welding is simple; heat the metal joint
(and filler rod) enough and, under the right circumstances,
it will literally fuse together. In contrast, soldering ‘glues’
components electrically but gives no real strength, which
is why solder alone should never be used for joints where
physical strength is required.
In electrical engineering terms, an arc welder is the simplest way to fuse metal. All you have to do is pass a huge
alternating or direct current (AC/DC – rock on!) through
the metal to be joined to heat it up. One of the electrodes
is a flux-coated rod to assist sweating everything into a
nice seam.
While simple in theory, in practice, it takes a lot of skill
and knowledge to know which rods to use, how much
current to apply, how fast to move the rod along the seam,
how fast to feed it in, and many other variables that only
experience and practice can teach.
A MIG welder is theoretically a lot easier to use for beginners. Instead of a solid flux, an inert gas (usually Argon,
CO2 or a mixture of both) is used to isolate the weld as it
happens. This prevents air from oxidising the joint at the
high working temperatures, which would otherwise make
it messy and not structurally sound.
This all happens at the nozzle end of the welding torch.
It is hollow and has an aperture for the gas to flow through,
while a wire is power-fed to the joint down the centre.
Pressing the trigger on the torch does three things. Firstly,
a valve opens so gas can flow out the end of the torch. Secondly, a motor starts feeding wire out of the nozzle at a
pre-determined rate and lastly, lots of current is applied
to that wire.
The circuit is completed by clipping a heavy-duty Earth
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
When there’s a weld, there’s a way
Magnifying viewer repair
Smeg dishwasher repair
Troubleshooting a BWD 525 oscilloscope
Fixing a pool chlorinator
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 85
clamp to the work to be welded. Wherever the wire from
the torch touches the metal, the circuit is completed, and
welding occurs.
As you can imagine, there is a lot going on, but the variables are all easily adjusted on the welder itself. Gas flow
can be changed by tweaking the regulator, wire speed is
controlled by a potentiometer and the output current by
either a pre-set switching arrangement or a continuously
variable current regulator.
The performance between different welding rigs varies
enormously, as does the price. Hobby welders are notoriously cheap and often not designed for any serious work.
All welders have a stated duty cycle, and this is usually
part of the numbers one looks at when buying a welder,
along with the maximum output current.
Welders can only be used for so long at full noise before
having to ‘rest’ and cool down. The standard ‘period’ is
10-minute units, so if the duty cycle on a 100A welder
is 30%, it can theoretically be run at 100A for three minutes before either shutting down due to overheating, or
the operator stops welding and waits out the remaining
seven minutes.
Obviously, there are variables in this; if you make a weld
and then stop for a while before making another one, you
can go for longer as it’s only the on-time that matters. Also,
running it at a lower current will usually allow you to have
a higher duty cycle. But that number does provide a good
indication of the practical use of the product, and should
be taken into account when shopping.
Another consideration is the device’s build quality; many
inexpensive machines use aluminium windings in the main
transformer, usually one of the most critical components of
any welder. Aluminium is cheaper than copper, so cheaper
machines tend to use transformers wound with it.
Much internet argument rages over the pros and cons of
either material, and whether square or round-wound coils
on the transformer core are better. Still, in practice, most
serious welding machines use very beefy, copper-wound,
iron-cored transformers.
I mention this backstory because recently, a neighbour
brought in a dead MIG welder to my workshop, asking if
I could repair it. When plugged in and powered on, the
cooling fan ran, gas flowed and the wire was fed at a pull
of the torch’s trigger. However, there was no output voltage
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Silicon Chip
(typically 23-26V DC on a smaller MIG like this), and it
wouldn’t weld when the circuit was completed.
This didn’t bode well; I suspected several possible reasons. On many such welders, there is a massive full-bridge
rectifier mounted to the case, while in others, a ‘driver’ PCB
controls the current delivery. This rectifier (or any of the
components on a driver board) could have failed.
Many welders also use the same PCB (or sometimes separate smaller PCBs) to hold components for controlling the
fans, electronic gas switching and wire-feed speeds. Still,
as these features all appeared to be working, failure here
was unlikely (though possible, of course).
Depending on the type of thermal cut-out device
employed, this may have also failed, preventing power output. While some machines use bi-metal thermal switches,
others use simple single-use thermal ‘fuses’. Either can
kill power to the whole machine, or only prevent the high-
current side of things operating and keep the fans running
to assist cooling.
And if none of those things turns out to be the problem,
it might be the transformer itself, which would put a whole
different light on things. Either way, I’d have to open it up
and take a look. I could see the bottom of a PCB through
the vented case, so I would start by looking at that.
This welder is a 180A ‘prosumer’ level gas/gasless
machine with a claimed duty cycle of 60%; not too shabby,
considering it was purchased many years ago. It can also
weld aluminium (with the right welding wire fitted and
the polarity to the torch reversed).
Interestingly, the owner uses a large SodaStream CO2
gas bottle mounted to it for the inert gas supply, through
a converter valve commercially made for that purpose.
I wish I’d known about this when I got my MIG, as it is
substantially cheaper to swap these bottles out than rent
even the smallest one and get it filled from the local industrial gas suppliers. It is also much more portable than having a large gas cylinder to tote around.
Opening it up
There are few jobs easier than disassembling a welder.
There is usually a side panel that can be unscrewed or simply unlatched to change wire spools and access the power
leads to the torch and other interior components. Chunky
PK-style screws hold the rest of the metal and plastic bits
together, and it takes literally five minutes to strip the whole
caboodle down to spare parts.
The main transformer is the star of the show and takes
up a good amount of space inside the box. It also makes
up the vast majority of the weight of the machine. A large
100mm cooling fan sits near the back of the compartment,
and the spool and wire-feeder mounts at the front, behind
the control panel (such that it is).
More modern ‘inverter’ type welders get away with a lot
less electrical mass. While they typically do an excellent
job, they tend to cost a lot more.
The PCB I saw earlier was easy enough to remove, and
as far as I could ascertain, there was nothing untoward
with it. No electrical smell or signs the ‘magic smoke’ had
escaped. The pot that controlled wire speed felt smooth,
and a meter across it showed no signs of worn-out tracks
when I slowly rotated the pot through its range.
There is a fuse mounted on the PCB, and that tested OK.
There is also a smaller mains to 12V transformer mounted on
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this board; I tested it for continuity, and both primary and
secondary looked good, with no shorts to ground anywhere.
12V DC applied briefly to the relay coil saw it pulling in
and letting go properly, and the contacts also rang out OK.
None of this was much of a revelation as this board controls the fan, gas valve and wire feeder – all of which I knew
still worked. Moving on then.
A bi-metal type thermal switch was mounted to a bracket
that pressed the face of the switch to the coils of the transformer. If the coils got too hot, the switch would trip and
interrupt power, preventing welding until it cooled again.
Testing the switch was straightforward; after removing it
from the bracket, I used a multimeter to measure the resistance across the terminals (with the leads disconnected
from the rest of the circuit). The reading was almost 0W. I
then used my hot air gun to carefully apply heat to the face
of the switch, and it opened at around 50°C, or as near as
I could measure it anyway.
That seemed about right; if the outside of the coil were
at around 50°C, the centre would be hotter, and that’s as
hot as I’d want it to get.
The final discrete component was the large industrial-
sized bridge rectifier mounted to a metal block, which was
then mounted to the steel case (for better cooling, I assume).
Measuring across all points with my diode tester showed
there were no shorted or open-circuit diodes.
That left the main transformer. While it was possible the
switch in the torch handle was failing, the rest of it was
working when the trigger was pulled, so I suspected it was
not the problem. Preliminary measurements across the primary of the transformer were encouraging. However, after
further testing, I discovered that one of the two secondary
windings was open-circuit.
After disconnecting all the wires, I pulled the transformer out for better access, noting carefully where everything went so I could put it back together later. It certainly
wouldn’t help if I wired it back up incorrectly! My fears
were confirmed with one of the secondary windings appearing open, and it was the one that went off to the rectifier.
That explains the lack of output to the wire.
It was also possible that this welder was branded and
marketed under one name by one company but sold by
other companies (even in the same country) under another
name, with the same (or very similar) hardware. A quick
look on the Interweb brought up literally hundreds of very
similar welders, but very little information on the parts
inside or even who made them.
Besides, I didn’t exactly have any part numbers emblazoned over anything in this machine either.
I don’t relish making phone calls like this to clients, but
sometimes these things don’t work out. But in this case,
the client mentioned that when he bought his welder, an
old friend of his had also purchased the same one. That
one had fallen off the back of a ute at a job site years ago
and no longer worked.
The client reckoned his mate might still have it lying
around (like many of us, he didn’t throw anything away
either!), and if so, perhaps he could acquire it and I could
burgle it for parts. Even better, I said, it might be easier to
repair than this one!
Sure enough, a few days later, the client turned up with
his mate and his mate’s dead welder in tow. One look at
the wreck told me that it wasn’t going to be repairable! It
looked like it had been run over; I guess when heavy objects
fall onto hard ground, they don’t usually fare well!
However, transformers don’t bend easily, and as it is
mounted in the dead centre of the case (to balance the
weight and make it easier to move about, I suppose), it is
about as protected as something could be in a relatively
flimsy stamped metal case.
In-situ measurement (once I’d bent a few things out of the
way) proved it was still alive, so after some serious panel
beating to get stuff out of the way, I was able to extract the
transformer from the dead machine.
Reassembling it into the original chassis was as straightforward as wheelbarrow mechanics. Once I made sure that
Bringing it back to life
This caused somewhat of a quandary; buying a new transformer, or having one made specially if we couldn’t find
a replacement, would likely cost the lion’s share of a new,
more modern welder. I’m in the very fortunate position to
have a commercial-grade transformer-winding machine
and ample copper wire stocks, but I’d have to face a couple of problems before I could re-wind it.
For one, I’d have to break down the old, dead transformer
to salvage the E and I iron core laminations from it – I have
some NOS (new old stock) cores in stock but nothing that
large. And for two, at the moment, that machine is buried
under a household’s worth of junk in storage. Getting it out
(very much a two-person job) and setting it up to re-wind
one transformer (even a monster one) wasn’t going to fly.
That was a shame, really, as it would have been a very
interesting project for my machine. Oh well, such is life.
A quick call-around for potential replacement transformers came up empty. This brand of welder was no longer
made or sold, so it meant finding another one from another
manufacturer – that is, if the customer wanted to go ahead
with a repair.
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May 2022 87
everything was in its proper place and wired in correctly,
I held my breath and plugged it in. A quick brush of the
wire to a scrap of metal held into the earth clamp proved
that we now had plenty of juice at the torch. The moral of
the story? It’s always good to have a spare!
“Magnifying viewer” repair
B. G., of St Helens, Tasmania has a short story about
repairing a somewhat unusual device...
A friend called me seeking help to repair a “magnifying
viewer” for a vision-impaired friend. I duly picked up the
unit and was told that it failed to switch on and ruined the
RCD in his switchboard, which had to be replaced.
I gathered from the weight that it contained an old CRT.
The item to be viewed was placed in a tray under the tube,
then adjusting the magnification and focus knobs provided
a clear and magnified display of the object on the screen.
I cautiously plugged the power plug into my test outlet,
which has an incandescent globe in series with the Active
line. The globe pulsed for some seconds, then tripped my
circuit breaker.
The unit was made by Telesensory Systems, a US company that now appears to be non-existent. So I had to trace
the circuit.
There was a nice toroidal power transformer with no
markings, a regulator board with +16V DC and +12V DC
outputs, CRT drive circuits, a small ‘vidicon’ camera
underneath and two of the smallest fluorescent tubes I
have ever seen.
I discovered that the two 12V regulators had failed and
replaced them. I couldn’t make much sense of the transformer; a mate suggested that I temporarily try one he had,
to no avail. I checked for shorts on the mains side, but it
seemed all right.
Undoing an insulated cover on the left side, I found
another board labelled “fluoro lamp driver” with a 4060
IC, some large capacitors, relays and transistors and a large
black inductor. The inductor and the board were connected
to the mains Active input and were easily unplugged. The
unit powered up now; this time, a dim raster was visible,
so perhaps the original power transformer was OK.
I then realised that the large inductor was the ballast for
the fluoro tubes. It measured open-circuit, and I bet it was
breaking down with voltage applied.
An internet search failed to find anything suitable like
a 4W ballast, and given that it was not producing a dull
picture, I fitted a string of white LEDs under the CRT. This
allowed it to produce a very reasonable magnified display.
I left it like that, and my friend was delighted to have it
returned in working order.
Smeg off and buy a new capacitor
R. W., of Hadspen, Tas managed to repair a dishwasher
for a grand total of $6. That’s less than 1% of what he was
quoted for a new control board without installation...
When we moved to Tasmania, our new house had a Smeg
DWA U214X dishwasher installed, matching the kitchen
cabinetry. It was about three years old, appeared to be in
good condition, and worked reliably until one day, a year
and a half later, it refused to start.
This “magnifying viewer” utilised a large CRT display. It was made by a company called Telesensory Systems who
specialised in making devices to help visually impaired people.
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This unit has a large pushbutton switch that controls the
mains supply. Upon switching it on, the machine gave a
beep, but none of the LEDs illuminated. It would generally
flash the two right-most LEDs to indicate completion of the
previous cycle. Selecting a program would typically show
the corresponding LED, but nothing happened.
Cycling the power gave the same initial beep but no further activity.
I trawled the internet and found that this was a common
problem with Smeg dishwashers of this age, but no one had
documented a repair. Some of the suggestions were entirely
unhelpful, stating things like “you need a new keyboard
for it”. I was able to find an assembly diagram but sadly,
not a schematic.
The next day, I again tried to operate the machine and
was greeted with the same result. I was called away for an
hour or so and, after returning, I realised that I had left it
switched on and now the end-of-cycle LEDs were flashing. After selecting a program, it operated normally. The
next day, the fault returned, but it worked after being left
on for an hour.
I contacted a local supplier of appliance spares, and they
were able to find a replacement board, but it was over $650.
Even second-hand items on auction sites weren’t cheap and
certainly not guaranteed to work. This effectively wrote off
the dishwasher, but I decided to attempt a repair as I had
nothing to lose.
I thought that faulty capacitors were the likely culprits,
possibly not resetting the microprocessor, causing the
switchmode supply not to start or limiting the available
current. I retrieved the control board, and there were no
tell-tale signs of failure or bulging electrolytics.
There was a 22nF X2 capacitor to drop the mains voltage, and I remembered reading in a past Serviceman’s Log
column that these had caused some problems in ageing
equipment. I decided to replace it and all of the accessible electros too.
A quick trip to Jaycar, and I had five capacitors for
about $6. Some like the X2 were an exact fit, while others
were larger, and I used a leaded 100μF electro to replace
an SMD type. However, when I desoldered one leg of the
SMD capacitor, it took part of the PCB track with it! I was
able to delicately solder the lead to the remaining piece of
track. Not ideal, but it worked.
The PCB is sandwiched in two half-shells that mount
in the dishwasher and guide the edge connectors. I had to
make a hole in one side to accommodate the 450V electrolytic, as the original 400V unit was smaller.
Smoke test time – it worked faultlessly. The LEDs
appeared brighter than I recall, indicating that the X2
capacitor was indeed not passing sufficient current for
the power supply to start. So a dishwasher was saved
from the junk heap for just $6, one hundred times cheaper
than a new board and many hundreds cheaper than a new
dishwasher.
Troubleshooting a BWD 525 oscilloscope
J. D., of Crows Nest, NSW has an electrical engineering
degree but wound up working in IT instead. He has kept
his workbench going with the odd repair and project, but
mainly in the digital electronics, low voltage space...
High voltage for me meant mains power, and even then,
it was only to step it down. But then, I got the opportunity
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May 2022 89
to purchase an Australian-made analog BWD 525 cathode
ray oscilloscope (CRO). It was already close to 40 years
old by then. It worked great until one day, my single trace
became multiplied, roughly 10 scan lines high.
I thought I’d have a go at diagnosing the problem. I started
by checking the various dials. The focus dial ‘worked’,
meaning the multiple scan lines did all go in and out of
focus but remained 10 high. Next, I fed in a 1kHz 4V peakto-peak square wave, and the 10-high scan lines remained,
but the Y deflection seemed to be working. The X&Y controls moved my waveform as expected.
Luckily, I had the service manual, and it included the
complete circuit, with expected waveforms and voltages
at various points. Vaguely remembering how to discharge
a CRT, I opened the CRO, revealing discrete components
– including capacitors as big as cans.
I started looking at the focus circuit, which has -1450V
DC applied to a series resistor string of 1.5MW, a 2.5MW
pot and two 3.9MW to ground. The pot’s wiper went into
the CRT terminal marked “focus”. This was somewhere to
start. There’s also a bypass capacitor between the pot and
the CRT. I measured the resistor values and disconnected
the bypass cap; they seemed all good.
One problem was that my multimeter had a maximum rating of 1000V DC, so I couldn’t directly measure the -1450V
rail. There were even higher voltages marked on the circuit.
I creatively measured the focus voltage by adding a resistor in series with my DMM’s input resistance and calculated that the focus voltage was somewhere between 800V
and 1200V.
The horizontal amplifier looked like it was working too;
there was a 7400 TTL NAND gate doing some tricky switching, but roughly measuring the voltage and waveforms, it
seemed to all be correct. The horizontal amp circuit also
does the blanking among some other functions such as
“alt” and “add” (dual-display/add the signals together) –
I couldn’t find any faults there.
Looking at the capacitors, nothing seemed strange; there
were no bulges or anything like that. Also, the diodes and
the bipolar transistors all seemed to be conducting correctly.
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The repaired BWD 525 oscilloscope displaying a nondistorted trace.
Working around 8600V made me a little nervous. Next, I
thought I’d check the power supplies.
The 135V rail showed a whopping 9V ripple before getting clipped by a zener diode – which reduced it to 25mV.
So I ordered and then installed some new unique-valued
capacitors because they didn’t seem to be filtering the supply rails very effectively any more.
I then calculated that I could directly measure the voltage
at the CRT focus pin with the potentiometer set halfway; it
should just be within range of my multimeter.
Doing this, the scan lines decreased to 5 high. So I was
definitely in the right area. Eagerly, I continued to measure. I measured across one of the 3.9MW series resistors,
expecting to get a reading around 480V. Instead, it went to
1000V+, then the multimeter promptly failed.
I confirmed that the resistor was open-circuit, replaced
it and the original, crisp traces returned. But wait, didn’t
I measure the resistor values before? That’s a real headscratcher.
With newfound confidence (and a new multimeter), I
wanted to tackle another problem that I’ve always had
with this scope. The horizontal trace never made it all the
way to the right edge of the screen. It would cut off about
2.5cm before reaching the right edge.
Looking at the circuit, the horizontal deflection amp
was made of pair of matching high-voltage BD115 transistors with their collectors connected to the left and right
horizontal deflection plates on the CRT. Their bases were
connected to identical pairs of emitter followers; that
made sense.
As they are mirror images, I compared and measured
them. All the voltages for those transistors matched perfectly and were as shown in the manual.
I then checked the emitter-followers, and I got twice the
voltages specified in the manual. I measured -3.5V to -4.15V
Australia's electronics magazine
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instead of -2V to -2.8V. However, the voltage at the BD115s
still measured perfectly. This was a mystery.
The coarse & fine horizontal adjustments worked – scrolling left, it scrolls off the left side, as you would expect, but
when scrolling to the right, it always clipped 2.5cm before
hitting the right-hand edge.
I started to look at the trace as it reached its end before
the right edge and couldn’t see any distortion in the trace.
It was as if the blanking/retrace circuit kicked in too early.
So I swap the connections to the BD115s. My theory was
that if it was the blanking circuit, the ‘cut off’ would also
switch to the left side. It didn’t! It was still cut off on the
right side, as if there was an invisible wall.
While off, I carefully placed the CRO on its side, the right
side down, thinking that whatever is obstructing is probably extending too far left from the right side. After all, I
was running out of ideas. I banged the table, switched it
on, and the trace moved closer to the right side! I banged
some more, and it moved some more until it was back to
normal – happy days.
So now I have a fully working 45-year-old Australian-
made CRO and a new multimeter.
Pool chlorinator problems
C. F., of Duncraig, WA had a problem with an AstralPool
Viron eQuilibrium pool chlorinator. Luckily, the control
board had relatively few parts and identifying the one which
was not doing its job was not overly tricky...
One day, I noticed the chlorinator pump was not operating at the usual time. We had some wild weather with
occasional blackouts, so I thought the timer had been reset.
I checked it, and the time displayed was 00:00.
I set the time, checked the timer setting (which was fine)
and put it in automatic mode. I was expecting the pump to
start, but nothing happened. The display cycles through
screens showing pool chemistry, chlorine production,
the current time and timer status. When the clock display
appeared again, the time was 00:00.
My first thought was that I had stuffed up when setting
the time, so I tried again, with the same result. I reset the
system, but that didn’t help either. Each time after cycling
back to the clock display, the time showed midnight and
did not advance with passing minutes.
I called the manufacturer support line but they couldn’t
help me; all the person could tell me was how to set the
clock, which was not the problem.
As the controller is out of warranty, I decided to have
a look inside. I disconnected the controller and brought
it to my workbench. Removing four screws opened it up.
Inside is a large PCB with a couple of transformers, a few
relays and power transistors. A ribbon cable connects it to
another PCB at the front panel.
I took out four more screws to remove this PCB. It has
the display, three ICs – one square with 64 pins and two
eight-pin types, all SMD. The board is coated in a protective lacquer. This is good as the controller lives near the
pool, potentially exposed to the elements and pool chemicals. However, it makes readings the IC markings a bit
challenging.
Eventually, I got the details by using a magnifying
glass and illuminating the board with a torch from different angles. One of the eight-pin ICs is a 5V regulator, the
64-pin is the PIC microcontroller (a PIC18F6XK22) and the
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Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like
to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so,
why not send those stories in to us? It doesn’t matter what
the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the
electronics or electrical industries, to computers or even to
cars and similar.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that
your material must be original. Send your contribution by
email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
other 8-pin IC is a Microchip MCP7940N real-time clock. I
checked its supply voltage, and it was correct.
The clock chip is equipped with an I2C serial interface
and the PIC microcontroller also has I2C lines. Following
the tracks, I could see the connections between them. So it
looks like the PIC microcontroller ‘outsources’ timekeeping to the clock chip.
I used an oscilloscope to check what was happening on
the I2C serial clock and serial data pins. As expected, there
was activity on setting the time, and each time the display
entered the clock and timer status display.
I checked the external oscillator pin and the signal looked
OK. Since, apart from the clock, all other functions seemed
to be working, I thought the clock chip was not doing its
job. If it were the PIC microcontroller, I would have no hope
as I don’t have the software to program a new one, but I
thought that replacing the clock chip would fix the problem.
I ordered a compatible MCP79400 in the SOIC package.
After replacing the chip on the PCB, I connected the ribbon
cable to the power board and plugged in the unit. I entered
the time and waited for the display to circle to show the
clock and timer. The clock did not return to 00:00, the time
was now correct, and after a minute, it advanced. So the
clock was now working.
All that was left was to apply some protective lacquer
over the new chip and put the controller back together,
which was the reverse of the disassembly procedure. I was
pleased that I saved the controller from ending up a junk
SC
pile in this ‘throw-away society’.
The AstraPool pool chlorinator is now keeping the correct
time after replacing the MCP7940N/MCP79400 real-time
clock/calendar (RTCC) IC.
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 91
By John Clarke
LED Lighting & Driver Kits
from Oatley Electronics
Oatley has four LED kits that can be driven from the one generalpurpose LED Driver, using a 12V DC source such as a battery.
Battery-powered LED lighting is ideal for outdoor use, such as
camping, in sheds or on small boats, where mains power is not
available. Different lighting options suit various purposes ranging
from wide coverage to more concentrated floodlighting.
T
he Oatley Electronics K491 LED
Driver runs from a 12V supply
and is included in one of four
kits: K491PK1, K491PK2, K491PK3 or
K491PK4. All four kits include various
combinations of white LEDs.
The K491 LED Driver is supplied
as a kit in all four cases. It needs to
be assembled by mounting the supplied components onto the PCB. There
are not many parts to install, and the
inductor is prewound, so it all goes
together pretty quickly. Then it’s just
a matter of wiring the Driver up to the
supplied white LED lamps.
Lighting options
The four kits are as follows:
1) K491PK1
This kit includes the Driver plus
four LED lamps in conical aluminium
housings with reflectors to concentrate the light, as shown above. The
four lamps are connected in parallel
and driven at 35W total (or 8.75W
per lamp). Because they are rated
at 60W each, they are significantly
under-driven, which means that they
run cool and the lamp life should be
very long.
2) K491PK2
This kit includes the Driver plus
two 1.2m-long 18W tubes, similar
in appearance to fluorescent tubes
but containing strings of white LEDs
instead. Again, they are driven in
Table 1 – kit LED lighting options
Kit
Driver
LEDs supplied
LED connection
Driven power
Driving voltage
Inductor tap
R1 value
K491PK1
K491
Four 60W LED
lamps
parallel
35W
20V DC
16 turns
0.05W
K491PK2
K491
Two 1.2m-long
18W LED tubes
parallel
28W
33V DC
12 turns
0.05W
K491PK3
K491
Two 0.6m-long
8W LED tubes
parallel
14W
50V DC
16 turns
0.1W
K491PK4
K491
Two 12W LED
floodlights
parallel
20W
50V DC
16 turns
0.05W
92
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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Fig.1 (above): this circuit shows the basic operating
principle of a DC-DC converter.
Fig.2 (right): the block diagram of the Motorola MC34063
DC-DC converter, which is used in the LED driver.
parallel but a bit closer to their ratings
at 28W total (14W per tube). Still, they
are under-driven, so they run relatively
cool and should last a while.
3) K491PK3
This is similar to K491PK2, but
you get the Driver plus two shorter
0.6m-long tubes rated at 8W each.
They are driven in parallel at 14W,
so 7W per lamp, just a bit under their
rated power.
4) K491PK4
This version has the Driver plus
two 12W LED floodlights. These are
IP65 rated, so they can be left out in
the weather. They include substantial
heatsinking and adjustable mounting
brackets. They are rated at 12W each
and are driven at 20W total or 10W
per lamp, so again, they are not being
run at full power, extending their lifespans, while still providing a decent
amount of light.
Table 1 summarises these four configurations and has a few extra details
that are needed to customise the Driver
for each set of lamps.
K491 LED Driver
The K491 LED Driver is used in all
four kits. The Driver can be set up for
each lamp type by setting the tapping
on the inductor with a wire bridge,
and by changing the value of resistor
R1 on the PCB.
This LED Driver is designed to drive
10-40W of LED lighting from a 12V
supply. It is a DC-DC boost converter
based around an MC34063 controller IC. The LED lamps can comprise
between three and 15 LEDs connected
in series. The LEDs may be combined
into a cluster, with a combination of
series and parallel connections.
White LEDs light up with around
3.0-3.3V across their terminals. When
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connected in series, the overall voltage
to drive them increases accordingly,
with between 9V and 9.9V required to
drive three LEDs in series. This rises
to between 45V and 49.5V for 15 LEDs
in series.
Fig.1 shows the basic operating
principle of the DC-DC converter. It
incorporates an inductor, a diode, a
switch and a capacitor. When switch
S1 is closed, current flows through the
inductor L1 and S1. L1 stores energy
in its magnetic flux. When S1 opens,
that energy is transferred, via diode
D2, to the output filter capacitor and
the load.
In practice, the switch is a transistor
or Mosfet, and the on and off times of
the transistor’s conduction are varied
to maintain the desired load voltage
or current.
The internal details of the Motorola
MC34063 DC-DC converter controller IC are shown in Fig.2. It contains
all the necessary circuitry to produce
a step-up, step-down or inverting
DC-to-DC converter. Its internal components comprise a 1.25V reference,
a comparator, an oscillator, an RS flipflop and output transistors Q1 and Q2.
The switching frequency is set by
the capacitor connected to pin 3 of
this IC. A 330pF capacitor sets it at
about 90kHz (measured as 96kHz on
our prototype). The oscillator is used
to drive the flip-flop which, in turn,
drives the output transistors.
The inductor current is sensed at
pin 7. When this reaches its peak, the
flip-flop and the output transistors are
switched off.
The time for which the output transistors are switched on is determined
by the comparator, which monitors
the output voltage. When the pin 5
comparator input exceeds the 1.25V
Australia's electronics magazine
reference, indicating that the output
voltage exceeds the required level, the
comparator goes low. This resets the
flip-flop, holding the transistors off.
Conversely, if the output voltage is
too low, the inverting input of the comparator will be below the 1.25V reference, so the output transistors can be
toggled on by the RS flip-flop at the
rate set by the oscillator.
In voltage-regulation mode, the
target output voltage is set using a
voltage divider that applies a fixed
fraction of the output voltage to feedback pin 5.
However, if the circuit is configured so that the target output voltage
is never reached and voltage to pin 5
is always below the reference, the circuit then operates in current-limited
mode. In this case, the peak current
sets the duty cycle, and this plus the
inductance of L1 sets the average current delivered to the load.
Circuit details
The complete circuit of the Driver
is shown in Fig.3. The internal transistors of IC1 are connected as a
93
The assembled
Driver has just four wires
connected: two for power in (at
right) and two going to the LEDs (at left).
Darlington to drive the gate of Mosfet Q2 high via diode D1, to switch it
on. Q2 acts as the switch (S1) shown
in Fig.1. When pin 2 of IC1 goes low
to turn off Mosfet Q2, PNP transistor
Q1 switches on to discharge Q2’s gate
capacitance, giving a rapid turn-off.
When Q2 is on, current begins to
flow in inductor L1. Resistor R1 (0.1W
or 0.05W) between pins 6 & 7 of IC1
sets the peak current delivered to the
inductor. IC1 does this by switching off
Q2 when the voltage across R1 reaches
0.33V. So the peak current is limited
to 3.3A when R1 is 0.1W or 6.6A when
it is 0.05W.
Each time Q2 is switched off, the
voltage at its drain rises because of the
energy stored in inductor L1. As the
current can no longer flow in Q2, it
is diverted through diode D2 instead,
flowing into the two 100μF 63V electrolytic capacitors, the 47nF ceramic
capacitor and the load.
Diode D2 is a schottky type with a
fast response to cope with the high
switching frequency of about 96kHz.
It also has a low forward voltage,
reducing power dissipation and
improving efficiency.
Voltage regulation is provided by
the feedback network from the output to pin 5, mainly the 43kW resistor
from the output and the 1kW resistor to ground. The output voltage is
maintained when the voltage at pin 5
equals the internal reference of 1.25V.
The 43kW and 1kW resistors reduce the
voltage by a factor of 44 ([1kW + 43kW]
÷ 1kW). So the output voltage is limited to 1.25V × 44 = 55V.
This voltage regulation protects the
Mosfet (Q2) and the output capacitors
from excessive voltage should the LED
lamp load become disconnected or if
the circuit is run without a load.
Power for the circuit is from a 12V
DC supply, with supply filtering provided by another two 100μF 63V electrolytic capacitors plus a second 47nF
ceramic capacitor.
Power delivery
Remember that the average current
delivered to the load via diode D2 is
less than the peak current in L1, and
power to the load depends on the
value of the inductor and the peak
current. For this circuit, the inductor
is tapped to select an inductance that
provides a suitable power output for
the particular LED lighting load that’s
connected.
Fig.3: the circuit diagram for the LED
driver kit from Oatley Electronics.
94
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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Fig.5: the overlay diagram of the LED Driver. Note that one of the resistors near IC1 is marked as 39kW on the PCB
silkscreen but should be 43kW as shown here.
L1 has taps at four, eight, 12 and 16
turns. The power versus LED voltage
graph (Fig.4) shows the typical power
levels for various configurations.
Note that the power shown in this
graph is the power drawn from the battery and not that delivered to the load.
The efficiency of the circuit is high, so
the graph gives a reasonable idea of the
power delivered to the load.
Construction
Construction involves inserting
and soldering the parts onto the PCB.
Follow the overlay diagram, Fig.5, for
the correct placement of each component.
Begin with the 1/4W resistors, including the 0W resistor (used as a wire link).
The colour coding for these is shown
in the parts list, but you should check
each value with a multimeter to ensure
each is placed in the correct position.
Note that R4 on the PCB screen print
is marked as a 39kW resistor, but it
should be 43kW.
Fit diode D1 next, noting that the
cathode (striped end) is to the left. IC1
can also be mounted now, taking care
to orientate it as shown.
Fig.4: the typical power level for various configurations of the LED cluster.
Note that this graph shows the power drawn from the battery.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
R1 is installed as either one or two
0.1W 1W resistors (R1a & R1b), with
two resistors giving the 0.05W total
resistance. There are four sets of holes
for these resistors. For the K491PK3
kit requiring 0.1W, install either R1a
or R1b but not both. You can use
straight leads. For the other kits, fit
both resistors and bend the leads, as
shown in Fig.5.
Install inductor L1 next. You can
check that it is in the correct orientation by verifying that the lower five
sets of pins on the right-hand side have
wires attached to them on the former.
If not, you need to rotate it by 180°.
Solder all the pins of L1 and then fit
transistor Q1, taking care to orientate it
correctly. Follow with the four ceramic
capacitors, which are not polarised,
then the four 100μF electrolytic capacitors, which are polarised. Ensure that
each electrolytic capacitor’s positive
side (with the longer lead) goes in the
top PCB hole in all cases.
Next, install diode D2. If an SR1060
is supplied, this will come in a TO-220
package, and it must be fitted with the
metal tab towards the top of the board.
However, our sample kit came with
an SR350 in an axial package. In this
case, it is mounted vertically, with the
cathode (striped end) to the left. The
anode should be placed in the right
PCB hole, with the diode body upright
and the cathode lead bent over by 180°
to insert into the left PCB hole. Leave
the diode body about 5mm above the
PCB for improved cooling.
Mosfet Q2 comes in a TO-220 package, and it is mounted with the tab
toward the edge of the PCB, and with
the mounting hole 15mm above the
May 2022 95
PCB. After soldering it, slip the heatsink over it; it is secured with spring
pressure. You could add an M3 x 6mm
screw and nut to further secure it if
you want to.
Inductor tap selection
On the underside of the PCB are the
tapping selections for inductor L1,
shown at the right of Fig.5. You need to
connect a wire link from pin 13 on the
underside of L1 to the COM connection. Then, connect either the 12T tap
or 16T tap (see Table 1) by soldering
in one of the dashed wire links. Only
one of these should be fitted.
The power input is via wires or pins
soldered to the +12V IN and GND terminals at the upper right and lower
right of the PCB, respectively. It is
crucial to connect the input supply
with the correct polarity to the K419
Driver, as there is no reverse polarity
protection.
Also ensure that you connect the
LED arrays with the right polarity,
with all the common anodes to the V+
OUT terminal at upper left, and the
common cathodes to the GND terminal at lower left.
If soldering the input and output
wires directly to the PCB (as we expect
most constructors would), it’s good
practice to add some form of strain
relief to prevent the solder joints from
fracturing.
Parts List – Oatley LED Kits
1 set of LED lights (see Table 1 for kit options)
1 single-sided PCB coded K419, 92 x 64mm
1 prewound multi-tapped inductor (L1)
1 TO-220 clip-on heatsink
Semiconductors
1 MC34063AP DC-DC converter, DIP-8 (IC1)
1 C8550 PNP transistor, TO-92 (Q1)
1 IRFZ44Z 55V 31A 13.9mW N-Channel Mosfet, TO-220 (Q2)
1 1N5817, 1N5818 or 1N5819 1A 20-40V schottky diode, DO-41 (D1)
1 SR350 50V 3A schottky diode, DO-41 (D2) OR
1 SR1060 60V 10A schottky diode, TO-220-2 (D2)
Capacitors
4 100μF 63V electrolytic
3 47nF ceramic disc
1 330pF ceramic disc
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% unless otherwise noted)
1 43kW
2 1kW
1 22W
2 0.1W 1W
1 0W
You could do this by adding a reasonable amount of neutral cure silicone sealant around each wire, holding them to the PCB while limiting
the amount of flexing that can occur.
Preparing the tubes
The K491PK3 kit contains two
0.6m-long tubes. As supplied, they
include an internally-installed LED
driver that was designed for use with
AC mains voltage.
This needs to be removed by undoing the screws that hold the end caps
in position and removing the end
caps. Then, cut the white wires so
that the installed driver module can
be removed.
Next, cut the red and black wires
that connect between the LEDs and
the driver module near to the Driver,
and drill holes in the end cap so these
red and black wires can pass through.
Then replace the end caps. The red
and black wires connect to the K419
driver output, red to V+ OUT and
black to GND.
Availability & pricing
At the time of writing, the K491PK4
kit is $42, K491PK2 is $40, and the
other two kits are $30 each. Postage
is around $10 in most cases, although
it might be a bit more depending on
how many you order.
You can order these kits and more
details on the Oatley Electronics site:
SC
siliconchip.com.au/link/abd1
The K491PK4 version of the
kit comes with these two 12V
floodlights instead of the LED lamps.
The K491PK2 version comes with the two 1.2m 18W
tubes shown below, while the PK3 instead comes with
the shorter 0.6m 8W tubes.
96
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Simple stereo microphone
This design lays little claim to originality but might inspire some legendary recordings. I plugged it into
a CD-quality digital stereo dictation
device (at a low gain selected) to record
the echo of Cape Town’s noonday gun
rolling off Table Mountain. When
heard on a hifi stereo system, the final
result is stunning.
The originality of the design does
not lie in the circuit itself. Two omnidirectional microphone inserts are
mounted half a metre to one metre
apart, pointed in opposite directions.
This makes a very noticeable difference over a typical stereo microphone,
where two electret microphones are
often mounted quite close together
(such microphones fail to take basic
psychoacoustics into account).
This circuit gives the most striking
results with fairly sharp sounds—the
noonday gun, or dogs barking, or a clap
of thunder. More confusing sounds,
such as crickets chirping, city traffic,
or children playing, may not produce
the most striking stereo result.
I used a dual low-noise JFET
input op amp for gain. The result is
extremely sensitive, pushing against
the bounds of the possible. You can
reduce its sensitivity by lowering the
values of the 10kW feedback resistors.
Be sure to use a good-quality screened
microphone cable and solder the
screen to 0V.
A useful wireless charger
Wireless chargers have many applications apart from charging phones
and toothbrushes, but standard “Qi”
power transmitters and receivers have
disadvantages – limited power and the
inability to drive low-impedance loads.
I wanted to charge two 10F 2.7V
supercapacitors in series, which act as
a 5F, 5.4V capacitor. This load looks
like a short circuit to a Qi chipset and
it will go into overload shut-down protection mode.
A non-Qi wireless charger is much
easier to design, and a push-pull configuration uses fewer components than
a full bridge. However, it does require a
centre-tapped output coil. An approximate sinewave results if the output
98
Silicon Chip
filter capacitor is 220nF, but the Mosfets and the 220nF capacitor get hot.
Therefore, I am using 47nF, which is
enough for spike suppression to protect the Mosfets.
This capacitor and the Mosfets only
get warm when charging a discharged
5F capacitor to 5V in less than 30 seconds. With a minimal air gap, it will
charge in 15 seconds. I am not using
resonant charging, so a sinewave is not
necessary. A suitable matching wireless power receiver circuit is shown.
I bought Qi charger modules from
AliExpress only for the coils – they
are amazingly cheap. The method
of making a centre-tapped coil from
two standard coils is shown in my
Australia's electronics magazine
The circuit draws less than 2mA,
so battery life is of little concern. An
audio editor may be used to reduce
hiss in the recording if desired.
Thomas Scarborough,
Cape Town, SA. ($75)
YouTube video (https://youtu.be/
xnIhMQ2O7C4).
The UCC2808-2 driver IC will run
from 5V and has push-pull outputs
which directly drive logic-level Mosfets, as shown in its typical application circuit.
A helpful website to refer to when
designing wireless chargers is www.
wirelesschargingcoil.com
There are also two interesting,
related videos. One is about designing a 3.3kW wireless inductive power
transfer system with 95% efficiency
over a 10cm air gap (https://youtu.
be/xEUnBNL8Dyk). The other is on
DIY wireless energy transfer systems
(https://youtu.be/3E5PUnYlaTM).
John Russull,
Kratie, Cambodia. ($120)
siliconchip.com.au
Lithium-ion battery reconditioner
A lot of modern gadgets are discarded that contain perfectly good
Li-ion batteries. This project allows
you to give those batteries a new life
and use them in your projects. It is
based on a Micromite LCD BackPack
with a touchscreen and supports 1-4
cell batteries.
After carefully removing the battery
from the device, fit a protection circuit
if it doesn’t already have one. These
are available on eBay for a few dollars
with different modules to manage different numbers of cells. They monitor the voltages of each cell, and if a
cell is overcharged, overdischarged or
excessive current is drawn, the whole
battery is disconnected.
These are good for the safety and
longevity of the cells, but they do
not balance the cells. This circuit is
not designed to charge cells rapidly;
instead, it charges and discharges the
cells slowly and safely.
In discharge mode, it monitors the
cell voltage and disconnects it when
it reaches 3.6V. There is also a 12-hour
timer to limit the maximum discharge
time.
When charging, a regulated 4.2V
supply with current limiting is used.
The voltage and current are monitored,
and charging stops when the current
drops to around 50mA, but a timer will
also stop the charging after 24 hours.
When the circuit is first powered, it
cycles through the cells continuously
to check the voltages. If you want to
determine the capacity of a cell, select
the cell and then press Discharge.
The circuit will connect an 8.2W
resistor across the cell and discharge
it until it reaches 3.6V. A graph is displayed showing the last two minutes
(or so) of the discharge history, with
separate lines for voltage (blue) and
current (red) – see the screen photo.
It disconnects the cell and provides
an estimate of the capacity in mAh.
If you select a cell and then press
Charge, the cell will be charged until
the charge current drops to around
50mA, after which the charger is disconnected. A graph shows the charge
current and voltage for the last two
minutes or so. The Charge All and Discharge All buttons do the same but for
all the cells in the battery, in sequence.
Measuring the capacity of the cells
allows you to create batteries with cells
of similar capacity. By charging each
cell individually, you can ensure the
battery is correctly balanced and provides maximum capacity.
The circuit is powered by a 12V DC
plug pack; 1A should be sufficient. The
core of the circuit is an LM317 regulator set to 4.2V by the ratio of the 110W
resistor and the 100W resistor in series
with the trimpot. The 1N5404 diode
ensures the circuit will power off correctly if the power is disconnected
while charging.
The 0.1W sense resistor limits the
current that can be supplied but is also
used to monitor the charge current, by
measuring the voltage across it. The
pairs of 100kW/47kW resistors reduce
Transmitter
Receiver
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 99
the monitored voltages to levels that
can be safely applied to the Micromite
analog inputs.
For typical Li-ion cells, the charge
current will start at about 0.5A and
drop to 50mA when fully charged. If
the cell is short-circuited, the LM317
will supply up to about 1.5A. A heatsink is required as the regulator drops
around 8V at around 0.5A. You could
reduce power dissipation by using a
7.5V supply.
The regulator operates as a single-
cell charger but is switched to each
individual cell using the relays in an
8-channel relay module. This can be
100
Silicon Chip
purchased from eBay or Jaycar (Cat
XC4418), and is a cheap way to get
many relays, but it also has additional
isolation and driver circuitry.
RLY1 allows the cells to be connected either to the charger regulator
or across an 8.2W 10W resistor (5W is
sufficient but 10W is better). RLY2 isolates the cells from the load or charger.
The cells are disconnected when it is
off, but their voltage can still be monitored. Relays 3-8 are used to switch
between the four cells.
The Micromite Backpack displays
the curves and provides the user interface. Any version of the BackPack with
Australia's electronics magazine
a 320x240 pixel screen should work.
Power for the BackPack is derived from
the incoming 12V DC using a prebuilt
DC-DC converter with a 5V output.
The software is written in Micromite BASIC, making it easy to change
parameters like timeout values. It is
named “Lithium-ion Battery Reconditioner.bas” and is available for
download from siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/6/6366 The timeouts and other
parameters are clearly marked in the
source if you wish to tailor them to
suit your requirements.
Dan Amos,
Macquarie Fields, NSW. ($110)
siliconchip.com.au
Motion-triggered ESP32-based WiFi camera captures intruders
The ESP32-CAM is a small module
you can buy with an onboard ESP32
with WiFi plus a camera. By adding
a small PIR sensor, you can set it up
to take pictures of intruders secretly.
By the nature of the module, very
few I/O pins are free. IO4 is used to
enable an onboard bright LED that
acts as an extra light source for the
camera. GPIO13 is used as the trigger
input pin for taking pictures, either
by pressing pushbutton S1 or when
triggered by the passive infrared (PIR)
motion detector.
When a photo is taken, the program
stamps the time on the filename and
then stores it serially on the onboard
siliconchip.com.au
micro SD card. The ESP32 is then put
into deep sleep mode after taking a picture. GPIO13 is used to trigger wake-up
from deep sleep mode. This allows the
device to be battery-powered, preserving battery power during the idle time
when no picture is being taken.
GPIOs 1 & 3 are used to drive an
I2C serial bus that connects to the
OLED display and the DS3231 realtime clock.
Note that you will need a PIR sensor that can run from 5-9V.
The bottom part of the circuit diagram shows how to configure the
ESP32-CAM to take photos when
motion is detected. The real-time
Australia's electronics magazine
clock is used to timestamp the photos
while the display lets you check that
the camera is working correctly as it
displays status messages each time it
is triggered. The display could be left
out, or unplugged after the unit is set
up, as it will work without it.
As mentioned earlier, the module
is woken up and triggered by pulling
GPIO13 to ground. It’s essential that
this happens reliably, and I’ve found
the best way to do it is via an optoisolator. The opto-isolator connection to
the PIR sensor is easy and works perfectly every time.
You can download the software from
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/6440, then
compile and upload it to the module
using the Arduino IDE. As the ESP32CAM does not have a built-in USB
interface, a USB-to-serial adaptor is
required to upload the sketch, connected as shown in the top section of
the circuit diagram.
GPIO0 needs to be pulled to ground
to enable uploading, which is the
purpose of switch S3. The module’s
onboard button should be pressed
during the first few seconds of uploading, then released.
Bera Somnath,
Vindhyanagar, India. ($120)
May 2022 101
101
Vintage Radio
Calstan Model 559M2 AM/SW
superhetrodyne
By Fred Lever
This set is an important part
of Australian radio history,
yet it’s a bit of a mystery. I can
find little information on this
model and it looks very hastily
made, especially the timber
cabinet, which seems to have
been thrown together. However,
it’s a decent performer and
mostly just needed cosmetic repairs.
I
purchased this radio (serial number 10538) from eBay in a non-
working condition. From the photos
in the eBay listing, I could see that
some of the knobs and back-plate were
missing and the dial was not in good
condition. In summary, the radio was
looking a bit sad (see Figs.1 & 2), so I
decided to rescue it.
My first move was to remove the
chassis and have a closer look (Fig.3).
The chassis was complete, with 1960s
style components and no thought
given to neatness; it was just wired
point-to-point (see Fig.4).
The first repair I undertook was
to sort out the dial stringing, as the
pointer had fallen off the top of the
dial and was hanging loose. All that
I really needed to do was free up the
seized spindle and pulleys and put
the pointer back where it came from;
that returned it to operating condition.
Unable to find any details of this
model, I sketched the circuit diagram
(Fig.5) and found it to be close to that
of a previous model 549 but with an
updated IF valve, changed from the
6BA6 type to a 6N8.
The type of components used suggests the set was made in the late 1960s
or early 1970s. The Rola 7000/3-5 output transformer has a date stamp of
30 October 1968 (Fig.6), and there are
plenty of model numbers
on the chassis, but there is no
ARTS&P sticker. The set uses an MSP
8C oval speaker, labelled MSP 6.4/M
A/3 50018.
Who was Calstan?
Calstan was a brand name for testing equipment designed and made by
Charles Slade pre-1939 for the radio
Figs.1 & 2: the Calstan (also known as Slade) 559M2 radio was initially
provided in ‘worn’ state, with some knobs missing and the dial a bit scuffed.
102
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
industry. It is said that the name
Calstan is short for “Calibrated Standard”, which suits the excellence of
the products made by Slade. Neville
Williams wrote an article for Electronics Australia about Charles Slade
(November 1992, pages 14-17).
Post-war, Slade concentrated on
selling radios from Slade Radio Pty Ltd
in Lang St, Croydon in Sydney (near
Burwood and, interestingly, quite
close to the site of a Jaycar store today).
It is said that the Zenith Radio Company were also involved, and there are
references to later Calstan radios being
produced by Zenith.
Whoever made it, this radio is a
sound design electronically, but the
cabinet is very crude with no frills
in the design or construction. It does
not look like a receiver Zenith would
have made. The whole thing shouts
low-volume and possibly even madeto-order.
Fig.4: the underside of the chassis had been assembled using pointto-point wiring, despite the radio looking like it was produced in the
1960s.
Getting it going
This set had not been powered for
a long time, so it took some time to
reform the filter capacitors using a low
applied AC voltage via a variac. With
that done, the set worked, but it had
very weak volume. A simple resistor
check revealed that the 470kW plate
resistor on the 6AV6 was open-circuit.
It was one of those tiny half-watt IRC
carbon resistors, so I replaced it with
a 1W resistor.
The set then worked normally. Its
performance is quite good; I didn’t
measure its sensitivity, but the set is
very lively and capable of generating
Fig.3: a quick look at the topside
of the chassis showed that it
was complete, without any parts
noticeably missing.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 103
Fig.5: this circuit diagram for the
Calstan model 559M2 is very similar
to the previously released model
549 from 1954. Note the available
connections for both an internal and
external speaker.
up to 18V on the AGC line, with an
ample sound level. Luckily, that was
the only electronic repair I had to
make.
The converter is a conventional
set-up using a 6BE6 pentagrid with
tuning gang control and a changeover switch to select between the AM
(broadcast) and SW (shortwave) bands.
The full valve lineup is 6BE6, 6N8,
6AV6, 6AQ5 and 6V4. The intermediate frequency transformers (IFTs) are
AP1008 52 types.
I noted that the IFTs have damping
resistors on the primaries; presumably,
that was done to broaden the response
of the coils by lowering their Q figures.
The first three valves run with
grounded cathodes and bias is applied
by the AGC feedback line to all control grids. The intermediate frequency
(IF) amplifier valve is a 6N8, using the
pentode section with the two internal
diodes unused.
The set has a simple AGC system,
with the voltage derived from the
diodes residing in the 6AV6 audio
amplifier that also demodulate the IF
to produce the audio signal. Audio
is fed, via the volume control, to the
6AV6. That then feeds a self-biased
6AQ5 which drives the 7kW coupling
transformer.
The tone control circuit is quite
complicated, being part of the negative
feedback loop with both low-volume
bass boost and a top-cut roll-off control. A phono/radio switch is fitted,
allowing for a ‘pickup’ feed-in socket.
The power supply is standard,
with a 6V4 full-wave rectifier feeding a ‘T’ filter with two RC pi filters
to smooth the 180V HT supply and
Fig.6: the output transformer had the
date 30 October 1968 stamped on it.
Fig.7: the words “WARD 1. P.P.C” can
be seen pencilled into the case.
Fig.8: I cleaned and re-glued the
cabinet as it was showing its age.
Circuit design
104
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
also a 220V tap-off point to power the
output stage.
Repairing the cabinet
With the set going, I turned my attention to the cabinet. It is just a timber
box with no frills, 350mm wide and
200mm high.
It’s possible that there never was a
rear panel as the whole thing looks
“cheap as”. I found the inside of the
box was interesting as the maker had
pencilled markings on it and did not
bother to remove them, including one
mysterious label which reads “WARD
1. P. P. C.” (Fig.7).
Some of the plies were separating
from the base timber, so I added some
strengthening bits, glued the lifting
plies down, bogged it up and sanded
the whole thing back – see Fig.8.
The front cloth cleaned up nicely
with fabric cleaner, looking almost new.
I applied a turps-based sealer and, once
dry, a same-brand gloss coat to the timber. The wretched thing fish-eyed with
something leeching through the sealer,
disturbing the gloss coat badly (Fig.9).
Talk about disasters in the paint shop!
While that was drying, I brushed a
turps-based black coat on the inside
(Fig.10). I finished it off by spraying
the knobs gold and cutting a piece of
scrap Perspex for a back panel to prevent burnt fingers (shown below).
I tarted the chassis and speaker up
a bit by cleaning them and applying
some gloss spray, then reassembled the
set. The gloss coat took about a month
to harden, so that was another painting disaster! I still need to add Letraset
labels for the controls onto the front of
the refinished cabinet. The knob functions from left-to-right are tone control,
volume control, power switch, band
switch and tuning.
I have seen pictures of Calstan radios
with white letter transfer legends above
the controls and a cast gold-coloured
metal logo, but this set had neither. I’ll
have to put something on the controls,
but I won’t worry about the logo as the
dial has the Calstan logo at the top.
Fig.9: a fabric cleaner was used on the
front panel cloth, and a gloss coat to
the timber cabinet.
Fig.10: a black coat of paint was then
applied to the inside, and the front
knobs sprayed gold.
Fig.11: the chassis was then remounted inside the cabinet with the MSP speaker,
measuring 9 x 6-inches and rated at 15W. After mounting the chassis, the rear of
the cabinet was sealed with a piece of clear Perspex as a safety measure (see the
photograph below).
Conclusion
I think this set is an important part
of Australian radio history. I have not
seen another one of this model. It was
probably among the last made with
the Calstan name, possibly from leftover stock and scrap parts, hence the
awful woodwork. Still, it’s worth preserving, I think.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
May 2022 105
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$10 MICROS
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24LC32A-I/SN
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Range Extender IR-to-UHF (Jan22)
LED Christmas Ornaments (Nov20; versions), Nano TV Pong (Aug21)
Car Radio Dimmer (Aug19), MiniHeart Heartbeat Simulator (Jan21)
Refined Full-Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller (Apr21)
Model Railway Level Crossing (two required – $15/pair) (Jul21)
Range Extender UHF-to-IR (Jan22)
PIC12F617-I/SN
Model Railway Carriage Lights (Nov21)
PIC12F675-I/P
Motor Speed Controller (Mar18), Heater Controller (Apr18)
Useless Box IC3 (Dec18)
PIC12F675-I/SN
Tiny LED Xmas Tree (Nov19)
PIC16F1455-I/P
Microbridge (May17), USB Flexitimer (June18)
Digital Interface Module (Nov18), GPS Finesaver (Jun19)
Digital Lighting Controller LED Slave (Dec20)
PIC16F1455-I/SL Ol’ Timer II (Jul20), Battery Multi Logger (Feb21)
PIC16F1459-I/P
Ultrasonic Cleaner (Sep20), Electronic Wind Chime (Feb21)
20A DC Motor Speed Controller (Jul21)
Fan Controller & Loudspeaker Protector (Feb22)
PIC16F15214-I/SN Improved SMD Test Tweezers (Apr22)
PIC16F1705-I/P
Flexible Digital Lighting Controller Slave (Oct20)
Digital Lighting Controller Translator (Dec21)
ATSAML10E16A-AUT
PIC16F1459-I/SO
PIC16F18877-I/P
PIC16F88-I/P
High-Current Battery Balancer (Mar21)
Four-Channel DC Fan & Pump Controller (Dec18)
USB Cable Tester (Nov21)
UHF Repeater (May19), Six Input Audio Selector (Sep19)
Battery Charge Controller (Dec19), Railway Semaphore (Apr22)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sep19)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite LCD BackPack V1-V3 (Feb16 / May17 / Aug19)
RCL Box (Jun20), Digital Lighting Controller Micromite Master (Nov20)
Advanced GPS Computer (Jun21)
Touchscreen Digital Preamp [2.8in/3.5in version] (Sep21)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB M&K Adaptor (Feb19)
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
$20 MICROS
ATmega644PA-AU
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/SP
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller (Aug13)
CLASSiC DAC (Feb13)
Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14), Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
$30 MICROS
PIC32MX695F512L-80I/PF Colour MaxiMite (Sep12)
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
SLOT MACHINE
(MAY 22)
- Micromite Plus BackPack kit without touchscreen (Cat SC6211)
- DFPlayer Mini module (Cat SC4789)
- Set of laser-cut 3mm acrylic pieces for front panel & coin slot (Cat SC6181)
500W AMPLIFIER HARD-TO-GET PARTS (CAT SC6019)
$45.00
$5.00
$10.00
(APR 22)
All the parts marked with a red dot in the parts list (see p32), including the 12 output
transistors, driver transistors, VAS transistors, input pair (2SA1312), BAV21 & UF4003
diodes, TL431 ICs, 75pF capacitor, E96 series resistors and 10kW 1W resistor
$200.00
IMPROVED SMD TEST TWEEZERS KIT (CAT SC5934)
(APR 22)
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK KIT (CAT SC6075)
(MAR 22)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER
(MAR 22)
INTELLIGENT DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY
(FEB 22)
Complete kit with PCBs, all onboard parts, new microcontroller and gold-plated header pins
to use for the tips. Does not include a lithium coin cell
$35.00
Complete kit, includes all parts except the optional DS3231 IC
$80.00
Parts for the Power Supply – includes the power supply PCB, IC1-3, D1, the 1W shunt and
sole SMD capacitor (Cat SC6224)
$25.00
Parts for the ESM – includes one ESM PCB, IC8, Q3 & Q4 (IRFB7434G), D9 plus the SMD
capacitors and resistors (Cat SC6225) → 8-14 sets typically needed
$20.00ea
Hard-to-get parts for the regulator module – all the ICs & regulators ◉ needed to build one
module, plus the schottky diode, 10μH inductor, 4700μF 50V capacitors, 1W shunts and
SMD capacitors – does not include PCB (Cat SC6096)
$125.00
◉ does not include the LM2575T as it comes with the CPU module parts
Hard-to-get parts for the CPU module – most of the required parts, including programmed
PIC32MZ, EEPROM, LM2575T, LM317 & LD1117V regulators etc. You just need the PCB,
headers, a ferrite bead, trimpot and electrolytic capacitors (Cat SC6121)
$60.00
IR-TO-UHF MODULE FOR RANGE EXTENDER (CAT SC5993)
(JAN 22)
SMD TRAINER COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC5260)
(DEC 21)
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER (CAT SC6021)
(DEC 21)
PCB and all SMDs (including the programmed micro) for the IR-to-UHF module
Includes PCB & all on-board components, except for a TQFP-64 footprint device
Hard-to-get parts includes: two 0.22W 5W resistors; plus one each of an
MJE15034G, MJE15035G, KSC3503DS & 220pF 250V C0G ceramic capacitor
$25.00
$20.00
$15.00
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USB CABLE TESTER KIT (CAT SC5966)
(NOV 21)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS KIT (CAT SC6027)
(NOV 21)
NANO TV PONG SHORT FORM KIT (CAT SC5885)
(AUG 21)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3 KIT (CAT SC5082)
(AUG 19)
Short form kit with everything except case and AA cells
Includes PCB, IC1 (programmed), IC2, D1, L1, SMD capacitors and resistors.
Does not include reed switch, magnet, LEDs or through-hole parts
PCB and all onboard parts only (does not include controllers)
$110.00
$25.00
$17.50
Includes PCB, programmed micros, 3.5in touchscreen LCD, UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other mandatory on-board parts
$75.00
Separate/Optional Components:
- 3.5-inch TFT LCD touchscreen (Cat SC5062)
$35.00
- DHT22 temp/humidity sensor (Cat SC4150)
$7.50
- BMP180 (Cat SC4343) OR BMP280 (Cat SC4595) temp/pressure sensor
$5.00
- BME280 temperature/pressure/humidity sensor (Cat SC4608)
$10.00
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Cat SC5103)
$4.00
- 23LC1024 1MB RAM (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5104)
$5.00
- AT25SF041 512KB flash (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5105)
$1.50
- 10µF 16V X7R through-hole capacitor (Cat SC5106)
$2.00
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB M&K Adapator, Feb19)
$1.50
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- 0.96in SSD1306-based yellow/blue OLED (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC6421)
- Pulse-type rotary encoder (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC5601)
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-8 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
- DS3231MZ real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
- 4-pin PWM fan header (Fan Controller, Feb22)
- 64x32 pixel white 0.49in OLED (SMD Test Tweezers, Oct21)
- pair of AD8403ARZ10 (Touchscreen Digital Preamp, Sep21)
- Si4732 radio IC (Si473x FM/AM/SW Radio, Jul21)
- EA2-5NU relay (PIC Programming Helper, Jun21)
- VK2828U7G5LF GPS module (Advanced GPS Computer, Jun21)
- MCP4251-502E/P (Advanced GPS Computer, Jun21)
- pair of Signetics NE555Ns (Arcade Pong, Jun21)
- 2.8-inch touchscreen LCD module (Lab Supply, May21)
- Spin FV-1 digital effects IC (Digital FX Unit, Apr21)
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3.5-INCH LCD ADAPTOR FOR ARDUINO
DSP CROSSOVER (ALL PCBs – TWO DACs)
↳ ADC PCB
↳ DAC PCB
↳ CPU PCB
↳ PSU PCB
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
STEERING WHEEL CONTROL IR ADAPTOR
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↳ CASE PIECES (MATTE BLACK)
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL PCB
↳ MOSFET PCB (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER PCB
↳ HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
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PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
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DIGITAL PANEL METER / USB DISPLAY
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UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
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↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
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TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
DATE
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
MAY19
JUN19
JUN19
JUN19
JUN19
JUL19
JUL19
JUL19
AUG19
AUG19
AUG19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
OCT19
OCT19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
DEC19
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
FEB20
FEB20
MAR20
MAR20
MAR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
MAY20
MAY20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
AUG20
NOV20
AUG20
AUG20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
OCT20
OCT20
OCT20
NOV20
PCB CODE
Price
24111181
$5.00
SC5023
$40.00
01106191
$7.50
01106192
$7.50
01106193
$5.00
01106194
$7.50
01106195
$5.00
01106196
$2.50
05105191
$5.00
01104191
$7.50
SC4987
$10.00
04106191
$15.00
01106191
$5.00
05106191
$7.50
05106192
$10.00
07106191
$7.50
05107191
$5.00
16106191
$5.00
11109191
$7.50
11109192
$2.50
07108191
$5.00
01110191
$7.50
01110192
$5.00
16109191
$2.50
04108191
$10.00
04107191
$5.00
06109181-5 $25.00
SC5166
$25.00
16111191
$2.50
18111181
$10.00
SC5168
$5.00
18111182
$2.50
SC5167
$2.50
14107191
$10.00
01101201
$10.00
01101202
$7.50
09207181
$5.00
01112191
$10.00
06110191
$2.50
27111191
$5.00
01106192-6 $20.00
01102201
$7.50
21109181
$5.00
21109182
$5.00
01106193/5/6 $12.50
01104201
$7.50
01104202
$7.50
CSE200103 $7.50
06102201
$10.00
05105201
$5.00
04104201
$7.50
04104202
$7.50
01005201
$2.50
01005202
$5.00
07107201
$10.00
SC5500
$10.00
19104201
$5.00
SC5448
$7.50
15005201
$5.00
15005202
$5.00
01106201
$12.50
01106202
$7.50
18105201
$2.50
04106201
$5.00
04105201
$7.50
04105202
$5.00
08110201
$5.00
01110201
$2.50
01110202
$1.50
24106121
$5.00
16110202
$20.00
16110203
$20.00
16111191-9 $3.00
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS) + 2 JOINERS
↳ JOINER ONLY (1pc)
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
2-/3-WAY ACTIVE CROSSOVER
TELE-COM INTERCOM
SMD TEST TWEEZERS (3 PCB SET)
USB CABLE TESTER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (GREEN)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER TRANSLATOR
SMD TRAINER
8-LED METRONOME
10-LED METRONOME
REMOTE CONTROL RANGE EXTENDER UHF-TO-IR
↳ IR-TO-UHF
6-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
↳ 4-CHANNEL
FAN CONTROLLER & LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
SOLID STATE TESLA COIL (SET OF 2 PCBs)
REMOTE GATE CONTROLLER
DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY SET (2 REGULATORS)
↳ REGULATOR
↳ FRONT PANEL
↳ CPU
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
↳ ACRYLIC LCD BEZEL
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK
AMPLIFIER CLIPPING DETECTOR
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER POWER SUPPLY
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ ENERGY STORAGE MODULE (ESM) PCB
500W AMPLIFIER
MODEL RAILWAY SEMAPHORE CONTROL PCB
↳ SIGNAL FLAG (RED)
DATE
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
DEC20
DEC20
DEC20
JAN21
JAN21
JAN21
FEB21
FEB21
FEB21
MAR21
MAR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
MAY21
MAY21
MAY21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUL21
JUL21
JUL21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
SEP21
SEP21
OCT21
OCT21
OCT21
NOV21
NOV21
NOV21
DEC21
DEC21
DEC21
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
APR22
APR22
APR22
PCB CODE
16109201
16109202
16110201
16110204
11111201
11111202
16110205
CSE200902A
01109201
16112201
11106201
23011201
18106201
14102211
24102211
10102211
01102211
01102212
23101211
23101212
18104211
18104212
10103211
05102211
24106211
24106212
08105211
CSE210301C
11006211
09108211
07108211
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
23101214
01103191
01103192
01109211
12110121
04106211/2
04108211
04108212
09109211
01111211
16110206
29106211
23111211
23111212
15109211
15109212
01101221
01101222
01102221
26112211/2
11009121
SC6204
18107211
18107212
01106193
01106196
SC6309
07101221
01112211
29103221
29103222
29103223
01107021
09103221
09103222
Price
$12.50
$12.50
$5.00
$2.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$35.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$1.00
$12.50
$2.50
$15.00
$30.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$20.00
$25.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$25.00
$2.50
$2.50
AM-FM DDS SIGNAL GENERATOR
SLOT MACHINE
MAY22
MAY22
CSE211002
08105221
$7.50
$5.00
NEW PCBs
We also sell an A2 Reactance Wallchart, RTV&H DVD, Vintage Radio DVD plus various books at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Capacitor options for
the CD Welder
Regarding the Capacitor Discharge
Spot Welder project in the March
2022 edition (siliconchip.com.au/
Series/379), can I use a Maxwell 16V
500F supercapacitor bank with your
design? The capacitor bank is made of
six 2.7V 3000F capacitors connected in
series. They are said to have a low ESR,
and these banks are being marketed
for vehicle engine starting instead of
a conventional lead-acid battery.
I have one of these capacitor banks
on hand and am wondering if I could
use it to handle the power delivery.
The weld pulse duration may have
to be considerably shortened. (C. B.,
Bonville, NSW)
● The design of the CD Welder is based
on using a relatively large number of
capacitors because each ESM with 2-3
capacitors also has a pair of Mosfets.
This way, the Mosfets only have to
switch relatively low currents (around
50A each or 100A per ESM).
What you have is effectively one
large capacitor. That means you need
a single ‘switch’ that can handle something in the region of 1000A.
When we designed the CD Welder,
we spent a lot of time ensuring that it
could safely switch the currents. The
spreadsheet providing this analysis is
available for download from our website, as it forms an important part of
the design, even if not great reading.
Note that as your supercapacitor has
500 times the capacitance of our bank,
there will be significant safety issues in
the case of failure of the switching system, as it stores 500 times the energy.
To use your supercapacitor as the
basis of a CD Welder, you could use
our Controller Module as-is and take
inspiration from the switching part of
the Energy Storage Module to make
a switching module that can handle
switching your supercapacitor into a
low resistance. You will likely need
ten sets of Mosfets and associated
switching drivers. So yes, it probably is
possible, but it will require a redesign.
108
Silicon Chip
If you do this, we strongly recommend that you download that spreadsheet and build a model of the system,
as the cost of getting this sort of design
wrong is high!
HDMI-based projects
are not practical
Could you please tell me if you have
ever done a composite or component
video to HDMI project? I have a couple of old DVD/VHS players, which I
would like to be able to feed to the TV
via an HDMI input.
I believe this would make an interesting project, especially if it could be
adapted to different requirements with
inputs/outputs such as HDMI, composite, component, S-video, VGA etc.
I have been a subscriber for many
years and look forward to receiving
my copy each month. (B. S., Kogarah, NSW)
● We agree that it could be an interesting project, but unfortunately, the
licensing requirements for HDMI and
the HDCP protocol make it impossible.
The licensing feed for HDMI alone for
low-volume production is US$5000
per year plus $1 per unit. HDCP costs
are on top of that.
Your best bet is to buy something like Altronics A3503 or Jaycar
AC1722. It’s doubtful that even if we
could design such a device, we could
do it with a total parts bill less than
either of those devices.
Pico BackPack
troubleshooting
I built the Pico BackPack kit (March
2022; siliconchip.com.au/Article/
15236), but I have a problem with the
TFT touch function using PicoMite
Basic. The calibration function fails
with a hardware error message when
the second target location is touched
during the GUI Calibrate procedure.
If I load the MicroPython demo,
none of the touch buttons work. Loading “PicoMite DemoV5.uf2” only
shows a blank screen. Unfortunately,
Australia's electronics magazine
I don't have another touchscreen to
substitute. Please help me to resolve
this problem. (A. E., Colyton, NSW)
● Check the soldering on the micro
SD card socket. A short circuit on the
socket will interfere with the touch
functions as they share the same SPI
bus. Check for continuity between all
the pairs of SPI pins, and each SPI pin
to ground. If you find a short, that will
explain your problem. It’s also a good
idea to examine all the solder joints
under magnification, looking for solder bridges.
Most likely, the fault is with the
MISO line since a fault on any other
SPI line would almost certainly prevent the TFT from showing an image.
If you still can’t see anything wrong
with it, try removing the socket (eg,
with hot air) as you could have solder
or something else conductive under
the socket, shorting out its pins.
Note that the Micromite Plus BackPack (November 2016; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/10415) and the D1
Mini LCD PackPack (October 2020;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/14599)
have similar designs, so they too can
have touchscreen problems if the
micro SD card socket has a soldering
problem.
Remote Control Range
Extender fixed
Thanks for your advice on troubleshooting my Remote Control Range
Extender (January 2022; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/15182) that you published in Ask Silicon Chip, April 2022
(page 116). I followed those steps but
still can’t figure out why it isn’t working. I think there might be something
wrong with the programming of the
PIC12F617 in the UHF-to-IR receiver.
Can you look at my unit and check
if that chip has been correctly programmed? (R. M., Ivanhoe, Vic)
● We received the device sent by
R. M. and got it working. We found
that the UHF receiver (RX1) was
installed backwards, so the data and
antenna connections were grounded.
siliconchip.com.au
We de-soldered it, flipped it around,
re-soldered it, and the unit started
working.
Interestingly, the receiver used
appears to be the Altronics Z6905A,
but it looks somewhat different from
the Altronics receivers we have purchased in the past. The trimmer is in
the centre of the UHF module while it
is offset on the photo on the Altronics
website. Also, the unit we were sent
lacks the pin labels shown in the photo
on their website.
We noticed another difference: this
receiver has a fast-operating automatic
gain control (AGC) return. Full sensitivity is achieved between repeated
remote control codes, causing more
noise in the reception.
We were initially concerned about
this, but further testing revealed that it
works just as well as the Jaycar receivers, even though they have a slower
AGC function. We also checked the
programming of the three PIC12F617s
sent to us, along with the PIC10LF322
on the transmitter, and all were correct.
Note that for the transmitter, the
value of the 100kW pull-down resistor we specified (but not installed in
this unit) turned out to be a bit high.
We now recommend using a 1kW pulldown resistor instead, to ensure the
pull-up is disabled when this resistor is fitted.
SD cards and keyboard
for Colour Maximite 2
I believe the SD card is obsolete.
So, what type of SD cards can be used
on the Colour Maximite 2 (August &
September 2021; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/368), and can you use a micro
SD card with an adaptor?
My second question is, what types
of USB keyboards are guaranteed to
work on the CMM2? Can I use a USB
to PS/2 adaptor to use a USB keyboard
on the original Colour Maximite? (R.
M., Melville, WA)
● Geoff Graham replies: while micro
SD cards are now more common, neither full-size nor micro SD cards are
obsolete. You can use a full-size SD
card or a micro SD card with an adaptor (often supplied with the card) on
the CMM2. Both work equally well.
A typical keyboard that works well
is the Logitech K270, which is wireless
and low in cost. Other keyboards that
have been tested and work include:
Logitech K120, K400+ or K800; HP
siliconchip.com.au
SK2885; Lenovo KU-0225; and Microsoft 600.
Keyboards with a built-in mouse
function (ie, a trackpad) will not work
because they have a built-in USB hub,
and the CMM2 keyboard port does not
support hubs. It is also possible that
some regular keyboards will not work.
This is rare, and the reason for it is
not clear, so it would be worthwhile
trying a few different ones if you run
into problems.
All of this is covered in the user
manual: siliconchip.com.au/link/abdj
Waterproofing jet ski
ignition system
Recently, you helped with recommendations for a Capacitor Discharge
Ignition system on a two-cylinder,
two-stroke jet ski from the 1980s I am
rebuilding, a project still underway.
One of the challenges is waterproofing or potting the circuits to ensure
they survive the wet areas. Initially, I
need the circuits open and modifiable
as I merge and adapt cabling, trigger
coils, the CDI etc. But as soon as possible, I want to protect the circuits with
a water barrier.
Have you covered the options for
water protection, limitations or risks
around digital or higher-frequency circuits and keeping the circuits removable and repairable? What are the
options for sealing connectors (like
dielectric grease) in hostile environments like boat motors? (L. C., Donvale, Vic)
● The easiest way to waterproof electronics is to house it within an IP67
enclosure. IP65 or IP66 will probably
not be sufficient for a jet ski due to
the water pressure involved. These
are available made from ABS, polycarbonate or diecast aluminium. The
diecast versions are ideal where heat
needs to be dissipated or RF shielding
is required.
Any cable entry to the enclosure
should be made using IP68 cable
glands (Jaycar Cat HP0720, HP0724
etc) or IP67 connectors (Jaycar Cat
PP1000 etc). Neutral-cure silicone can
be used for extra waterproofing around
seals and wire entry points, although
this can be hard to remove once cured.
Potting electronics is not ideal,
reducing heat dissipation and practically eliminating any hope of repairs.
Unless the circuit is low in cost or
needs to be operated in extremely
Australia's electronics magazine
harsh conditions, we don’t recommend potting. For operation under
extreme conditions, potting may be
the only solution to preventing damage to the electronics.
A full seal around the closing edges
(using silicone if necessary) is better
than potting since it’s easier to reverse.
It would also be a good idea to spray
both sides of the boards with a conformal coating before placing them
in the enclosures so that if a little bit
of water does get in, it’s less likely to
cause damage. You can usually solder through these coatings to make
changes or repairs.
Our experience using IP65 enclosures underwater shows that water
will creep inside any cabling that lies
in the water, allowing water to enter
the enclosure, corroding the wiring
and electronics inside. The water
eventually penetrates the outer cable
sheath and runs along the inside. So
waterproofing the cable sheath is necessary. PVC tubing can be used for this.
Some cable types can also be purchased with a gel filling to help prevent water penetration.
Omitting designators
from circuits
I have a question for you, although
I think I know the answer. Why don’t
you number resistors and capacitors?
It would be much easier to say “R1”
instead of something like “the resistor
from the input to 0V”. I’m guessing it’s
because there’s not enough room on
the PCBs for both component numbers
and values, and it was decided that
having values on the PCB would result
in fewer errors. (D. H. Sorrento, WA)
● Your assumption is basically correct. There are obvious advantages to
numbering resistors and capacitors,
but there are disadvantages too.
As you point out, there often isn’t
room to print both designators and values on a PCB, so if we chose to print
the designators, constructors would
need to refer to a parts list for the value
of every single component. That will
slow down assembly and increase
the chance of mistakes. So the initial
assembly becomes more difficult.
Having the designators definitely
helps with troubleshooting, but since
most boards assembled ought to work
first time (given that we’ve already
tested the designs), we’d be optimising the less common scenario.
May 2022 109
Also, adding designators to circuit
diagrams makes them significantly
more cluttered and harder to follow.
That was probably the main reason we
stopped doing it.
We would certainly print designators if we were producing commercial
products assembled by machines. In
that case, we would only need to refer
to the printed labels for troubleshooting and repairs.
Reducing air
compressor power
I bought a small air-bed compressor
to drive my melodica (a sort of winddriven keyboard). I want to reduce the
airflow to suit this task as I am too asthmatic to blow into it for more than a
minute or so. It's rated at 2.5A/600W,
but I don't want to pull it apart in case
something goes "sproing!" and is lost
forever.
Short of tying a knot in the hose or
otherwise blocking it (which could
damage the compressor), would a
240/120V stepdown transformer with
an adaptor work, or perhaps one of
your motor speed controllers? There
are no further specs about the motor of
any use. (D. H., North Gosford, NSW)
● It’s hard to say without knowing much about the motor, but we
think the motor speed would likely
be reduced by decreasing the supply
voltage. So you could probably use a
variac, step down transformer or our
Refined Full-Wave Motor Speed Controller (April 2021; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/14814).
There also appear to be much lower
power air pumps available that would
be more suited to powering your
melodica without having to alter the
pump motor speed.
For two more methods of powering
a melodica that we definitely don’t
recommend, see the video at https://
youtu.be/8_9C3Q9AAEc
Arduino LC Meter not
calibrated correctly
I have built your Arduino-based
Inductance/Capacitance Meter (June
2017; siliconchip.com.au/Article/
10676). It works perfectly in both
modes (L/C), but inductance mode
only works correctly if the variable
"CF" is removed from this line of code:
CXval = C1val * CF *
(float(F1sqrd/F3sqrd) - 1.0);
110
Silicon Chip
Without this change, only the frequency is shown correctly; the inductance is always displayed as "Over
Range!". Are you help me? (A. Z., via
email)
● CF is the calibration factor. It seems
as if that variable does not have a compatible value. This suggests that your
problem may be due to one of the following causes:
1. you did not perform the calibration procedure when you first powered
up the project;
2. when you attempted calibration,
you may have forgotten to insert the
jumper shunt LK1 first;
3. you did not fit a low-inductance
shorting bar across the test terminals
before performing calibration;
4. you did not remove the jumper
shunt from LK1 immediately after performing calibration (before powering
the unit up again).
Any of these could result in the
calibration factor (CF) having a value
that is not compatible with the meter’s
operation.
Balancing lithium-ion
batteries
I have a device with two Li-ion cells
in series driving a DC-DC boost converter giving 14V output to drive a
circuit (up to 0.7A peak for less than
three seconds). I’d like to charge the
batteries while they are still in the
device using a three-pin connector and
external charger. I’m currently using
two Li-ion 18650s, but I’d also like to
try LiFePO4.
I’ve noticed some voltage differences between the two cells, so a simple 8.4V (7.2V for LiFePO4) charger
might not always be safe. Is it practical to have a plug-in power supply
with positive and negative outputs,
so both cells can be charged independently while connected in series
inside the device?
The charger output should be able
to deliver up to 0.8A but a maximum
of 0.5A would be safer, to suit 16003000mAh cells. I don’t want the cells
to be shorted out or overcharged in the
process. This would save me unscrewing the box and removing batteries to
go into the usual one- or two-cell chargers. (T. C., Penrith, NSW)
● Balance-charging Li-ion cells is
very common and there are many
products on the market to do it, both
as standalone chargers and as Battery
Australia's electronics magazine
Management Systems (BMSs) that you
can leave permanently connected to
the cells. Because these are so common
and cost so little, it doesn’t make much
sense for us to design one.
Having said that, we have published
at least two Cell Balancers to date, and
we’re working on another one. You
could consider building the Battery
Pack Cell Balancer from March 2016
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/9852),
although it’s probably overkill for your
application. We sell the PCBs and all
the parts for that project: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/?article=9852
You could also consider simply
purchasing a balance charger like the
iMax B3, available for under $20 on
eBay with free delivery. It could be
wired up via a 3-pin plug and socket.
However, probably the simplest and
cheaper option is to fit one of the many
2S Li-ion protection/cell balance/BMS
boards available for just a few dollars.
For example, see www.ebay.com.au/
itm/253968033970
Many of these claim to balance the
cells during charging. Then you just
need to apply the 8.4V or 7.2V charging
voltage and let the BMS equalise the
cell voltages.
How mains capacitor/
zener supplies work
Have you ever considered doing an
article on capacitor-drop power supplies? I recently repaired the infrared-
controlled three-speed fan in my workshop and found it to be a frustrating
experience due to my lack of knowledge.
The problem was that after switching it on with the remote, the fan
locked up and could only be switched
off at the mains. Many would argue
that with the low cost of replacement,
why bother? But as a hobby, the enjoyment of repairing such a thing is hard
to beat.
I have a mains isolation transformer
that made the job a lot easier. The fault
was with the 1μF X2 capacitor; it was
down to a very low value.
I know that you have done many
projects using such power supplies
in the past. (P. W., Montmorency, Vic)
● We went into detail on how this
type of power supply works on pages
32, 34 & 35 of the April 2012 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/705). That
article described a mains-powered Soft
continued on page 112
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Starter we designed that used that type
of power supply, and it explained how
it worked.
Fundamentally, they are pretty simple. At a fixed frequency (50Hz for
our mains supply), the impedance of
a capacitor is inversely proportional
to its value.
So with a capacitor connected
in series with the supply, the current drawn depends on the capacitor value; double the value, and you
roughly double the current that the
device draws.
The capacitor applies the mains
voltage waveform to a bridge rectifier,
with its output voltage being clamped
by a zener diode or similar to produce
a DC rail. Since the capacitor limits
the current being fed in, the zener is
not destroyed and the desired supply
voltage is achieved.
So the capacitor value is chosen
based on how much current the circuit will consume; making it larger
than necessary will just waste power,
and if it's too small, the desired supply voltage will not be achieved. So
any significant drop in capacitance is
likely to stop the device from working. The only solution is to replace
that capacitor.
Unfortunately, it is not uncommon
for X2 capacitors to lose capacitance
over time. Money and space pressure
sometimes cause manufacturers to
choose capacitors that are physically
too small to be reliable. Also, by the
nature of the way X2 safety capacitors are designed, being exposed to
voltage spikes (eg, caused by nearby
lightning) will often cause them to lose
capacitance.
Question about
an old project
I can’t find anything on your website
about the PCB used in the September
1992 LCD Readout. I have the used
PCB here for testing; the code on it is
00921. I’d love to make a spare as this
unit has become well worn. Mostly I
use it for testing displays before fitting
them to other equipment. Is this PCB
pattern available?
I have been subscribed since the
early 1980s. I may be able to find the
magazine in my attic storage, it would
take some time, and it’s hot up there.
(J. P., Shailer Park, Qld)
● 00921 does not look like a Silicon
Chip PCB code as our codes are usually eight digits long.
We can’t find any projects in September 1992 called “LCD Readout”,
but there is a General-Purpose 3 1/2Digit Panel Meter project (siliconchip.com.au/Article/5520) that uses
an LCD screen. Presumably, that is
the one you are referring to. Its PCB
code is 04110921, similar to the code
you provided.
We don’t sell many PCBs from
that long ago (as there is virtually no
demand), nor do we have any CAD or
other computer files for that designs
before about 1995. The pattern was
published in the article on page 85. It
looks like it was made with tape, not
on a computer, which is likely why we
don’t have any files from back then.
We have scanned the PCB pattern,
cleaned it up, and added the image
to our website’s PCB Patterns download section (siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/10/6329).
SC
Notes & Errata
Dual Hybrid Power Supply part two, March 2022: in Fig.11 on page 85, the metal sheet for the heatsink folds up where shown,
not down. Also, the hole in the heatsink should be drilled 25mm from the left edge, not 30mm. Note that link LK1 on the control
board, shown in Fig.13 on page 86, needs the shorting block in the upper RDO position, not the lower SDO4 position. Finally,
instead of the 15μF tantalum capacitors specified, non-polarised 15μF 50V X7R M5750/2220 ceramics can be used. We supply
those in the kits as they are superior to the tantalum caps in virtually every way.
Remote Control Range Extender, January 2022: if needed, the optional pull-down resistor at pin 1 of the IC1 (PIC10LF322) on
the transmitter should be 1kW rather than 100kW as originally specified. This lower value ensures the resistor is reliably detected
and the internal pull-up is always disabled.
Programmable Hybrid Lab Supply with WiFi, May & June 2021: on p74 of the June issue, Fig.7 shows the copper layers swapped
and thus the SMD components are shown placed on the wrong side of the board and mirrored. The actual locations of some of
these parts can be seen in the photo at the bottom of p75 of the same issue, and the diagram has been corrected in the June
2021 online issue. This means that two 1.8kW resistors are under the ESP-32 module.
The June 2022 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday 26th of May. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies
in Australia between May 24th and June 10th.
112
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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